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Standard Operatring Procedure

Basic Technical SOP for Cutting Section in Apparel Mfg Facility
This research paper is relevant to Indian Apparel manufacturing sector.

SOP Designed under guidance of Mr. Jayashantha Perera

Inputs –Details related to Fabric such as face side /Shade bands etc..
1. Shade swatches along with the face side swatch approved by the buyer should be received from the Go down and Merchandising dept respectively. 2. Shade segregation should be complying with the approved swatches. 3. Verify whether the shade segregation is matching to the standard. 4. Approval from H/office mandatory if the received lots of fabric are not matching to standards. 5. The approval must have a checklist form for all the tests & approval standards w. r. t colour, wash, embroidery, printing, hand feel 6. Shade band details (Shade A, B, C, D) after verification should be received from fabric inspector & spreading team also should be given a copy for reference. 7. Shade grouping also must be received from the fabric godown. 8. Fabric details such as to face/back, nap direction; hand feel should be received from the godown duly approved by the merchant. 9. Shade wise/widthwise segregated rolls only should be received, checked & then should proceed for laying. 10. Both ends of every roll should have sticker consisting details of shade no, roll no, width and other relevant detail to enable easy identification of rolls.

Cutting Forecast shade wise
1. Cuttable quantities from each lot and shade should be informed to marketing, QA, & Buyer QA in advance for approval.

2. Cutting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per the breakdown of the PO

Note: Rolls should be allotted in such a way that no of shades included in a single lay or shipment or size range is minimized.

when the new style begins fusing parameters has to be finalised (temperature. Cut fabric swatches with square template of size 18‖ X18‖(or 12‖x 12‖) Fuse the fabric & specified interlining at specified temperature. 3. pressure & time. bubbles etc.Tests & Daily Maintenance: >> Fusing validation trial tests must be carried out regularly. once at the start of the machine then in the afternoon. by passing a fabric strip through the machine & by pulling it backward --the need for re alignment of the rollers pressure can be identified when this is done at three points i. 2. Check the fusing for defects like – peel off. >>By passing a carbon paper placed on top a white paper through the machine the impression on the white paper can be observed.e left/center/right of the belt. Inform deviations/defects if any to the concerned for necessary corrective action. This would also will help us to determine any inconsistence of the roller pressure at left>center> Right >>Cleaning of the belt thoroughly and check for the required temperature and pressure when the fabric/colour changes. 6. 5. . Check for fusing shrinkage and record same ---this should be incorporated into the patterns ―as allowance for fusing‖. 8. and temperature and pressure to be set for fusingFusing tests must be carried out twice a day. time & pressure). 7. Allow for free relaxation without any obstruction —the period should be studied and pre determined by the Go down and the factory Fabric Inspector 3. affecting the fusing quality. Allow for cooling of the fused parts. QA team has to educate/specify area of fusing. Unroll the fabric from rolls & lay on table/flat area in concentric folds.Spreading of fabric for Relaxation 1. 4. If you observe any shade variation. >>Check the fusing machine pressure rollers nip. Record the time of unrolling and ready time laying of each roll 4. 2. report to the Cutting In Charge and initiate corrective action. Relaxation of the lay should be pre determined and will be around 3-6hrs (for stretch fabrics –if necessary especially for knitted fabcrics Fusing-Study of Fusing Shrinkage 1. Fusing Machine-. Check for shade variation if any due to fusing.

Make a report of observations. risk analysis.5% .5 % marker/pattern#1 & for shrinkage of 4.—In case of Nike orders it is not allowed---efforts be made to obtain computer markers from a close by plant. PO. QC.. Marker drawing & Preservation of patterns 1.Washing Shrinkage 1. multiple markers to be prepared. For Example: For absolute shrinkage % range of 3.6% . Cutting incharge should try out different markers to maximize fabric 3.-the selection of the rolls should cover all the shades and shrinkage groups 3. simplification.5% then the shrinkage test to be conducted for all the rolls/bales received (100% of rolls) 4. Obtain feed back from the sewing & buying QA and then act upon the necessary corrective action. Carbon Papers could be used for duplication of markers in case of non-CAD markers. Mark the roll no. Taka No etc 3. 1. if the range is too large or inconsistent. Cutting incharge. >>Color codification should be done to trace rolls of shrinkage groups . A Parts Checklist has to be maintained by the marker drawer to ensure coverage of all parts in the lay. 4. Percentage of washing shrinkage lengthwise and widthwise should be received from fabric section and recorded—the suppliers should ensure that the shrinkages are as specified by the buyers (international standard limits are 3% lengthwise and 3% -widthwise ) 2. Cutting of Pilot Run Objective: carried out in order to make the necessary amendments in patterns/laying procedure/cutting procedure /cutting allowance/ marker changes/panel inspection/numbering area/bundling size. production manager & IE shall plan for the pilot & bulk cutting. The pattern/marker being suggested by HO team is only a starting point for the cutting incharge to work on better fabric utilisation. corrective action plan based on the above analysis. If there is a big variation in shrinkage. Identify the face & reverse side as per the swatch . 2. amendments. comments. suggestions. 2.0 – 4. Pilot run cutting shall be done as per the colour/size/quantity advised by FM/PM/IE. . Style.Marker/Pattern # 2 – like that. If the washing shrinkage % is more that 1.

4. 9. 2.if any shade change is noticed then use separators. cutting job card. On satisfying these factors the worn out pattern has to be replaced. Worn out patterns are to be destroyed after conformation on the correctness of the specifications mentioned in tech pack. this has to be regularly monitored and worn out patterns to be replaced even daily if the case demands to ensure cutting quality. Layers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for the lay at a time . face down. Lay wise manpower requirement must be planned. Lot no. 6. 3. face up. 5. The cutting incharge has to decide upon the kind of lay such as – face-to-face. lay sheet from the minusing person. 8. Bulk Cutting 1. notches and embellishment placement marks. Use lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different shades if used in the same lay—the shade category should be mentioned on every lay separator sheet also. During laying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade variation & also center to selvedge variation as a part of online check procedure. 7. Cello tape could be used to preserve the edges of the pattern boards –for big quantities plastic boards could be used to duplicate the pattern for marker drawing 7. allowances and tolerances. Lay Precaution: 5. length. Fabric code no. Serial no.e. grain line.i. Pattern should be verified for required allowances. lay sheet has to be placed for identification. Layers shall collect lay slip. . End wastage for laying of fabric shouldn’t be more than 1 cm. Hence easy identification of cut panels. Lay sheet on which the marker is drawn is torn in the middle & stickers are pasted consisting details like PO no. it has to be replicated & cross-verified for required measurements. Lay Preparation: 1. 6. Constant usage of patterns results in wear & tear of pattern. If the patterns are worn out. nap direction etc. nap direction during the PP meeting stage upon the analysis of the garment. face to back. width. grain line.4. 5. QC shall inspect the lay for lay tension. Layers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details. nap direction indications before marking. tolerances. grain line.

. For Band knife cutting . Cutters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting. due to frequent usage. notify fabric defects and cutting defects to FM/PM. 2. Note:If sharpening of blade is uneven/inconsistent. 7. colour. Serial No. All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined sequence and at pre determined location. patterns preferably made of tin should be used. sizes. Checklist should have details of allowances. Numbering 1... QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1st bundle audit has to be conducted. 4. Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage. No. 9. Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge. Panel Checking .O No. 6. QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate corrective action upon the detection of defect. Of garments cut. 3. sharpening quality. straightness of the blade. 12. notches and embellishments placement markings details. 8. Prepare 1st cut bundle inspection report. The patterns used for band knife must be changed regularly upon monitoring the wear and tear on the pattern. length of the knife/blade. P. 3. evenness in sharpening of the blade.2. 11. Straight knife must be uniformly sharpened from top to bottom as frequently required. If possible diagrammatic representation of the direction of movement of the cutter needs to be illustrated. Numbering stickers gum strength (Light/Medium/Heavy) has to be decided keeping in mind the kind of fabric being cut. This ensures even sharpening along the full 10. dust accumulation before cutting. tolerance included in pattern.. specifying the style #. it would result in uneven depth of notch marks and variation in cutting too. Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark up using straight knife m/c and move the parts to band knife as per the discussion in PP meeting. The size of the straight knife for cutting lightweight fabrics should be 6‖ only. 5. especially for parts with deep curves.

matching the shade. 5. Mark the pattern on a board (Acrylic. When cut panels are inspected they shall be marked with green as ―I‖.1. no change in laying procedure without prior information from the incharge 10. All panels shall be checked for fabric defects. The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut panels on the pattern and checking for accuracy of notches. When a bundle is checked. 5. serial no. 2. Re cutting & End bit Control: 8. bundle no. Bundle tags will have details such as lot no. Cuts shall be bundled in to a pre determined bundle size and will be segregated size wise as well as lot wise and stored in bags. 3. C) on the cut panels for easy identification and tracking. Layers shall mark both end bits with roll number. Bundling & Sorting 1. End-bits should be always laid face-up. This inspection board has to verified and approved by pattern maker before usage. measurements & tolerance. 4. size. 2. nap direction. Bags shall be stored in racks batch wise. 3. 6. grain lines. to avoid shade variation. they shall be bundled and marked with inspection status. Issues of cut bundles to batches be done out as per the loading plan 4. cut-lot number. they shall be marked with green as ―c‖. Mention shade category (A. 9. the roll & taka number should be written and stacked separately 11. Place the cut panel (component) on this marked area. crocked cutting. .tolerance as dotted lines around the outline marked. meter age --all the bits every lay shall be bundled and given to recutting department. B. It becomes easier to asses if the cut panel is within or out of tolerance. Once the fabric is cut. Card Board) along with +/. End-bits should be placed separately (Shade wise) to avoid discrepancies. Re-Cutting should be done from the same lot of fabric.