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This compilation © Phoenix E-Books UK

Introduction,

What

can be done on the "Domestic" Sewing Machine, Suggestions to Beginners,
General Hints on Art Needle- work,
Instructions in Outlining,
-

How

to

Wash,

Silk

and Crewel Embroider}',
-

Instructions in Couching,
Instructions in Instructions in Applique,

Queen Aune Darning,

...... -------------

r ONTENTS.
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J
Page
6
7

8
9
11

14
16
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Instructions in Shuttle Emliroidery,

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19

Fringes and Tassels for Finishing Work,
Instructions in

20
21

Embroidery with the Attachment,

Instructions in Feather Stitch, or Kensington Embroidery,

27
-

Finishing Treatment of

Work,

.

-

-

31

Masonic Banner, illustrating different kinds of Embroidery, . Designs Adaptation and Fitness, How to Copy, Transfer, or Get Designs, Color and Harmony, Material used for Art Needle-work, Queen of the Orient, illustrating Figure Embroider}-,

32


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Description of Designs,

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33
3r)

35 38 39 39

Conclusion,

40

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A"

COMPLETE STAMP ING OUTFIT
FOR

I

"Domestic" Art
IT of
not,

Need.le=vs^ork.
It

embraces a variety of large and practical designs, susceptible of a very wide range
application for "Decorative Work'" in the home.

includes the following, viz.:

Golden Rod, Spray of Wild Roses, Fern Leaves,
Figure
(]Mau(l ]\Iuller), Scroll

Daisies,

Woodbine, Poppies, Forget-meIt
is

Design and Orange Spray.

the first outfit

ever prepared especially for Art Needle-work by the sewing machine.

Can be obtained

of

any Dealer

in the

"Domestic

'

Sewing Machine.

Price, only SLoO.

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choice

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^ HE "DOMESTIC"
A^IAGAZINE
Literature,

MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
illustrated,

for the

home,

profu.sely

devoted to

Miscellaneous

Travels,

Monthly Review of Fashions, Domestic Art,
to

and a Ne-w

Department devoted wholly
This
is

ART NEEDLE-WORK BYTHE SEWING MACHINE.
in

the

first

and only Magazine
Subscriptions
Co.,

the world to recognize the

Sewing JMachiue
to

in

Art

Needle-work.
]\Iaciiine

can

begin

any

time.

Send
of

direct

"Domestic"
or subsciiibk

Sewing

Neav York, enclosing amount

subscription,

TimOUGII ANY dealer IN THE "DOMESTIC" SeWING MACHINE.

Subscription Price, $1.50 f-er year.

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V

DESIGN A.— See

description

on page

39.

furniture. when influences were set in operation in England really dates . an indispensable assistant of Pomp.work to the Goddess Athene. etc. invention of Art Needle. it continued to hold a prominent place in ecclesiastical adornment. Moses. and the mythological Gods propitiated by the giving of priestly The Grecians ascribed the vestments and gorgeously made temple decorations. and besides ecclesiastical uses. -Introductionwith the necessity for clothing. In ancient times the special favor or approval of Kings and potentates was manifested by the bestowal of finely wrought apparel. and a cheerful contributor to the accompaniments and surroundings of Religion. describes how the curtains of the Tabernacle were embroidered and the priestly garments wrought under the direction of Aholiab the chief embroiderer. After the Christian Era Its revival nineteenth centuries there was a marked declension in its production.— See description on page 39. back only to 1872. it was largely employed in the decoration of hangings.. in the book of Exodus. Its field kept constantly widening. attaining the highest degree of perfection between the fourteenth and eighteenth centuries. During a large part of the eighteenth and the early part of the equipages. costumes. but willingly its NEEDLE-WORK undoubtedly originated field of application soon widened and it became the servant of Fancy.^^t^ DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK DESIGN *- B. and the Romans recognized it as a worthy attribute of Minerva.

extent be employed in this work. They are not intended to be exhaustive. of success should be satisfactory until this is No degree attained. but rather the adaptation of a well known and almost employed assistant in home work. yet to the Whilst all machines can. schools production. and in response thereto the following pages have been prepared. and in our homes it exerts its subtle and refining powers upon all who dwell or enter therein. It must always be borne in mind that the standard of excellence is the skilled product of the hand.work. and throughout our country everywhere prevails great interest in this attractive and refining field of home work. fact The recognition of this by an intelligent of instruction for its and discriminating public has caused a demand for some means production. established for instruction in its School of Art NeedleExposition exerted a interest in its produc- of its interests. but rather suggestive. wonderful influence in this country in creating a wide spread Societies have since been organized for the furtherance tion. must come fully up to this requirement. England. that they may prove a real help and an additional stimulant in this most fascinating field of home work. field. True art is ennobling. to the production of This new factor is kinds of Art Needle. and that the work of the machine to be satisfactory. however. It is hoped. beauty and power of the best designs most forcibly executed. therefore. let all efforts to beautify or adorn them be in accord with the truth.J^k^ "DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK which resulted in the establishment of the celebrated Eoyal The Centennial work. A new and universally potential factor in its production has recently come into the all not a heretofore unknown one. . the family sewing macliine. DESIGN C.—See description on page 39. at South Kensington. to some "Domestic" belongs the proud distinction of being the only one that fully meets all the practical requirements for the production of this most exacting class of needle-work.

The following classes of are the is j)rincipal work. Keii- sington Embroidery and Solid Etching. range of work and practicability. Others may claim equal degrees of excellence. Very few changes are required to adapt it to the production of any of them. What are the requisites in a sewing machine to fill the requirements for the The answer can be summed up in satisfactory production of this class of work? Does the Simplicity. "Domestic" fill these requirements? The first. bannerets. which are as easily understood and made as the changing from a plain seam to the making of a hem. Tinsel and Chenille Embroidery. stand and piano covers. and the ease with which they are made. employed in embroidery. covering almost the entire field of embroidery. The Vibrator for Vibratixg the Presser-Foot. but the careful and intelligent observer will : readily see the difference. viz. etc. landscape. panels. Arrasene. all of which are simply marvelous. tapestry hangings. various kinds of scarfs. The "Domestic" produces all of the varieties of work enumerated above with only one extra attachment in addition to those furnished with the machine. practicahility. Braiding Applique. imitations of Oriental and other foreign work. both in effect and execution. Outline Etching. The "Domestic" Embroidery Aitacliment is a complete art machine in It uses every kind of material itself.— See description on page 39. range of work. The second requirement. must be evidenced by its adaptation to the work with the fewest possible changes. tidies. Prominent amongst the work produced might be named doylies. screens of all kinds. DESIGN D. etc. Queen Anne Darning. Gold Thread.^^^^ DOMESTIC'' ART NEEDLEWORK What can be done on the "Domestic Sewing Machine. table. and the ease with which inexperienced persons take uj) and execute it. a distinctively "Domestic" device. . but each susceptible of a great variety of combinations and applications: ing. because it enables the operator to turn the work in any direction without having to stop and raise the presser-foot. Couch- Couching Applique. * THE whole line of Art Needle-work on eveiy kind of texture with every kind of material. all kinds of Silk.. Braiding.. is one of the most practical features of the machine in the execution of Art Needle-work. is answered beyond all question by the work itself. three essential points. The last. so that any person can readily understand and manage successfully. simplicity. is answered by the above list of the various classes of Art Needle-Avork. flower or figure etchings. all kinds of window and Also most elaborate and beautiful door draperies.

by the hand scarcely any progress towards advanced attainments In Art Needle. By the aid of the sewing machine new possibilities are within the reach of many. It should always he home in mind that the machine is only the mea7is of executing the ideas of the operator. but the artistic requirements are the same as when executing by the hand. In some kinds of work the machine will far excel the hand. understand the and know what changes might be made in order to handle properly various kinds of material. therefore. A little practice will make you perfectly familiar with the mechanical details involved. who for the want of time never could have made DESiGN E. are In selecting the first design for working on the machine let it be one that would be simple and easy for hand-work. and persistent which always brings success. Eemember is experience only the result no excellence without great labor. and success will crown your labors. In short. on a piece of muslin or other material until perfectly familiar Avith its adjustment and application in handling the work.. must be controlled and directed by an intelligent judgment. 6 . the effect of different length stitches. have confidence in your own ability. to be used successIts capabilities fully.work. The skillful and rapid producer of Art Needle-work to-day was the blundering and hesitating tyro of the past. Do not attempt too elaborate or extensive work FIRST of all the beginner tensions. and that shill is only a familiar is "There knowledge coupled with dexterity in practical application. do not expect to be able at once to execute perfectly that of which you have no distinct or definite idea. at a great saving of labor and material.-see description on page 39.JL^^_ "DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK Suggestions to Beginners. The use of the vibrating To that end Avould suggest practice presser-foot should be thoroughly understood. study carefully the printed instructions for the various kinds of work given on the following pages. the machine. Some persons are said to or genius but it has have a natural taste for Art Needle-work. wonderful when thus managed. both in effect and durability. persevere in your efforts. at the outset. Do not be discouraged that if the degree of success expected is not at first attained. and that perfection of execution depends upon the degree of completeness and accuracy of these ideas. been truly said that only another name earnest. Do not be satisfied with your attainments until your work is equal or superior to the skilled product of the hand. faithful effort genius is for toil." that of continued effort. must be familiar with the machine.work. Avail yourself of all the information possible in reference to Art Needle.

and should always as far as possible harmonize with intended use. but especially so to persons with a limited knowledge and experience in decorative of material will be best adapted to the intended use? What answer the proper harmony? What kind of a design will look well and Verily. : '' Fitness essential to all real art" Mistakes will be made. but their application is contingent upon so many local surroundings that the individual must determine as to fitness.work on the sewing machine. There are always certain general laws. requires knowledge. There is now the most perfect liberty in the choice of materials. Bold and showy designs are suitable only for large pieces of work. viz. but each mistake is an experience which could not be obtained in any other way. but the end is well worth the effort. It is surprishow rapidly ideas develop and multiply when concentrated in any given direction. work. It is an invariable truth that knowledge alone can enable the formation of accurate judgment respecting beauty or want of beauty of an object. or purpose for which the article is intended. not only on the ground of personal enjoyment. Colors should always harmonize with surrounding colors. Anything can be used that would be suitable for the place. but cannot decide. . by diligent labor.. Study Nearly colors. designs and color is usually a perplexing one. and this can only be obtained See description on page 39. Avoid a gaudy artistic effects. We wish therefore to impress upon all. General suggestions may aid. but with a view to the general advancement of the refining and ennobling influences of art in the home. THE work. In nothing is this truer than in Art Needle. because of the rapidity and ing ease of execution. and are "will What kind capable of the closest harmony. display of contrasting colors. colors question of material.ga-xi DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK General Hints on Art Needle-work. qualities Cultivate an appreciation of artof the principles by a careful study and application of decorative designs. such as portieres. etc. The prevailing colors to-day are subdued. all lovers of art work possess a natural eye for which will in a great measure guide them. Experience begets confidence and skill. curtains. these are primary questions at the same time be easily and quickly executed? and require the exercising of personal judgment. and the person possessing the greater knowledge is best able to correctly judge of its ornamental qualities. True beauty in art DESIGN F. the importance of a general knowledge of the principles of art. The fundamental law governing all art work should never be and absolute truth are lost sight of.

done with knitting. A great variety of effects can The thoughtbe produced by variation and combination of colors. or any other resting on the spool of upper thread. 1 . Gold thread or cord is best applied with the embroidery attachment same as kismet. Directions. it is the simplest a line of stitching or embroidery. forked presser-foot. the shuttle. The first three can be used either from The last three are always used from the shuttle. Outlining or Outline Etching. more generally used than any other class of embroidery.^. because of its simplicity. but requires a special one. etc. OUTLINE means the line by which a figure is defined. under the head of the under-braider. one of the oldest kinds of embroidery. and their use is called Couching. which will be fully described under that head. For some kinds of outlining with kismet. Outlining is is often called Outline Etching. fidelity to form./i^-^- DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK Instructions and Directions for Art Needle-work on the "Domestic" Sewing Machine. Couching. It will not work with the ordinary braider It can also be applied with the regular plate or reducer. kismet. back into the fork of the presser-foot and under it far enough to hold in place. . bringing it forward and down the center of face plate. seventeenth and When more than mere contour is desired it eighteenth centuries. The various names given to the different kinds of Needle-work.into the oil hole on top of face plate. kind of Art Needle. is ease of execu- tion. For instructions see reducer for reducing the size of the hole in braider plate. and place over spool pin Insert the shuttle screw driver. and probably attained the highest perfection during the sixteenth. thread. gold zephyr and crewel.work. and in its application to Art Needle-work by means of the sewing machine is the outlining of designs by In details. the "Domestic" Embroidery Attachment is preferable. Outlining. directions in regular instruction book for learning the "Domestic" Sewing Machine. ful operator will find in this class of work a wide field for artistic effect in arrangement and harmony. Queen Anne Darning. and when worked solid in colors or with lights and shades it is called Solid Etching. by using an extra Outlining is usually filoselle. such as Outlining. See directions for using the embroidery attachment. Wind the kismet cord on a spool. then pass the end of the kismet around this. but its beauty depends upon grace and This is particularly true of figure subjects. or as the upper thread.. Outlining with kismet or tinsel can be done same as braiding. effectiveness and general adaptation. Cut No. metallic pin. sewing and etching silk. simply indicate the different kinds of embroidery and the various methods of applying the material.

occasionally bran. Sometimes it is better not to iron the work. strain and use the This makes an excellent wash Squeeze the fabric gently. In that case when almost dry. or for the production of striking and small sized thread for small desigtis or more subdued and delicate effects. according to the pleasure the operator. or wring. Use the Vibrator so that the lift work can be turned without having to stop and ing with silk or crewel the presser-foot. umbrella and cane holders. iron on flannel with the back of the work up. hang up to dry in the house in a warm room. never use soda. nicely adjusted. so as to See that the tensions are make a rule. the design must always be stamped on the lorong side of the goods. For fabrics which require repeated washing. practical. and allow it to remain until thoroughly dry. because the washing only serves to harmonize and blend the tints used. DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK When is outlining by means of a row of stitching with a large or coarse thread. stirring it. Pour a gallon of boiling water over one pound of bran. tea cloths. it it always preferable to use from the shuttle. When used from the shuttle.'. bread napkins. As coarse thread requires a longer stitch than small or fine thread. using from the shuttle. the of a and delicate of perfect stitching desired. are for screen panels. In its simpler applications. . splashes. The more difficult applications. Regulate the shuttle tension to suit the if thread and use the same effect color of silk or cotton for the upper thread. which always may be of either long or short. Application. not rub. the outlining material should be fine and always used as the upper thread. tray cloths. etc. etc. Cut No and allow it to stand for twenty-four hours. Outlining is used for decorating doyleys. a perfect stitch. because size of it avoids changing the needle. but do for setting colors of embroidery on wash goods. washing powder or fluid ])reparations.outlinis preferable. particularly beautiful a couching effect line is If however. stretch on a board with drawing pins or Avhite tacks. bannerets. Don't expose to sunlight when damp. bed covers. and the stitch should be varied in length according to size of thread. scarfs for side boards and dressing cases.tJ^. bold designs Rule — Use and is preferable to large thread for effects. shoe bags.water lukewarm. tidies. is thread. but none the less door and window curtains. When the thread is small it will ahvai/s work nicely as the upper thread. How to Wash Silk or Crewel Work to Prevent Color from Running. which may be smaller than the shuttle desired.

Lace insertion should be used on each side of the strip. It is suspended by a ribbon same color of the sateen. width at top of the back. This cut illustrates a wide class of most beautiful and effective outline work. bottom five inches. silk — A very ornamental and attractive strip for decorating a light colored curtain can be made by working in outline a suitable design on satin of any desired color. The pocket twenty-six inches long. It is outlined with knitting silk and is bound piece is piece making with scarlet dress braid. worked in colors so as to produce a most pleasing contrast. thus producing a most singular variegation. be on top.sewed on a porti're of sateen or other suitable Care however must be exercised in selecting harmonious colors. sometimes the other. or small panel worked in outline with black sewing on crushed strawberry colored sateen. Is a banneret. Designs on brocades can often be very effectively outlined with gold or silver Plush takes outline work in gold with effect. Felt takes outlining with good effect. no specific rules can be laid down. with a design outlined in gold and rose colored saddlers' silk. A band of plush may be used thread. zephyr or filoselle. and sometimes both colors will show.makes a beautiful border for a grenadine or scrym curtain. It is mounted on heavy paste or binder's board with black velvet strips at top and bottom about two inches wide. A very handsome portiere can be made of plush with a suitable design outlined with gold tinsel. After having learned to execute with the Kensington stitch (see page 27). and after outlining. will on felt. also a strip of braid extends down the middle of the pocket it into two pockets as shown. especially couching outline done in crewel. and little practice will enable the making of an intelligent decision in each lO . cord. length. The operator's preference however. it make most beautiful draperies For small panels. 1. — The back should extend above the pockets about eight inches. Cut No. A variegated effect that is most pleasing can be produced by using two colors of crewel wound together: in coming off of the bobbin sometimes one quite as effectually. Light peacock blue. and the edge finished with broad lace. Outline leaves worked in shaded zephyr are very attractive and suitable for use Mythological and other figures worked in outline on linen with crewel or favor for screen panels. or a pretty contrasting color of silk. case. It is made of linen duck. thirteen inches long and ten inches wide. Cut No. Light leather might be used for binding. will have to guide in the choice of the means of execution. or Japanese gold thread. material. twelve inches wide at the top.conventional or arabesque designs are preferable. but each in the end attaining the same result. Represents an umbrella and cane case. white velveteen Queen Anne Darning in a color that will be found most desirable for many kinds of out- line work. is very effective and easily executed._^^^ DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK Description of Cuts. 2. outline designs in silk are in great India silks filoselle. thirty-four inches. and tapered so as to allow a little fullness at the bottom. as one operator may prefer one method and another some other. one and one-half inches wide. When outlining is used in connection with Queen Anne Darning. The a desired effect has much to do with deciding upon the method of outlining. when decorated with will with outlined flowers and a back-ground of harmonize nicely. fourteen inches. etc.

draw the thread out of the second hole and pass it down through the Cut No. 4. Tlierefore. The following illustration (Cut No. It is also found in some of the old Turkish embroideries. zephyr or crewel. down through the hole farthest from you and under the curved guard of the spring. then backward over the spring. as follows: pass it upward through the hole in the spring nearest to you. which Instead of passing the thread under the spring according to the regular instructions for threading the shuttle. This effect is produced most beautifully. having been used largely centuries ago in Southwestern Europe. rapidly and perfectly by the ''Domestic" Sewing Machine. is THIS name properly applied to crewel.. the throat-plate must have a hole large enough to allow the shuttle thread to be draton up through freely. to observe this rule will invariably cause trouble. 3). or Cut No. Avill give a correct idea of its appearance and proper length of stitch for zephyr or filoselle. Failure for this class of ivorh always use the throat-plate tvith the largest size hole. It is quite an old kind of Art Needlework. They are always used from the shuttle with the upper thread of a for ordinary work. size such as is used The the shuttle tension should be a little looser nary work. is thread the shuttle as shown in Cut No. crossing the couching thread. For many kinds of work a very pretty effect is produced by using a color for the upper thread that will contrast nicely with the color of the couching thread. Couching filoselle.^^^ DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK Instructions and Directions Continued. couching thread will lie on the surface instead of being inter-locked in the middle of the fabric. Couching. 4-. long slot under the spring guard. all kinds of embroidery in which the threads of on the surface and stitched on by threads coming from the back of the material. and it than for ordiupper tension adjusted to so that the under. is done with coarse silk. for which apply to any dealer in — 1 1 . When zephyr or other equally heavy material is used. If the couching material is very heavy it may require a special throat-plate. sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. If this makes too much tension. Rule Whenever a large or coarse thread is used in the shuttle. Some forms of it played an important part in the production of the famous ecclesiastical embroideries of the fifteenth. silk or zephyr are laid Directions5. 3.

table and stand Its use covers. the lines lambrequins. Couching is especially adapted to the outlining of large or bold designs. 4. about the right length of stitch for all heavy material. This portiere is made of Ada canvas. directions regarding variation Cut No. and is especially suitable for a dining room. It is worked in couched outline with zephyr and crewel. 5. deep yellow and three shades of blue 12 — Shows the shuttle threaded zephyr. Cuits. Avoid using too short stitch. so as to allow perfect freedom in turning the goods to is follow the design. without shading By crossing of couching most beautiful effects in net work can be produced. The colors used are shaded red. effects It may flat be used solid where are desired. Application. etc. Shows the appearance of a couching stitch in zephyr or filoselle. also for use in connection with Queen Anne Darning. — a most beautiful illustration of the practical application of Avith . — and is Cut No. Is couching with zephyr. and for various kinds of applique. bed covers. The judgment of the operator after a little experience. will guide in deciding upon the proper length of stitch for the various kinds of material. scarfs of all kinds. 5. Description of Cut No. in connection with Queen be Anne Darning Cut No. Observe closely the from the manner of threading as there shown. It is used for decorating portieres. 3. The presser- foot should always vibrate just high enough to clear the goods when the needle down. will treated under that head. piano covers. etc.^/i^^- DOMESTIC^ ART NEEDLEWORK '^Domestic" Sewing Machines. olive and brown.

. 13 DESIGN C— See description on page 39. to that both in quality of work and effectivedone by the machine. yellow. has attracted its effectiveness. A Turkish table cover of black cloth was executed by an inexperienced operator.1^^^- "DOMESTIC^'ART NEEDLEWORK each shading to yellow. besides being inferior. and the thoughtfind a wide field for its application in home ornamentation. The material beautiful table scarf of light olive used was coarse embroidery silk in Turkish colors. rather than gaudy and showy contrasts. because of ease of execution and exempli- fication machine of the to the production of this class of work. harmonizing colors can be used in Seek to produce subdued and pleasing by means of close harmony. of the practical adaptation portiere of light olive felt decorated with interlocked rings and squares strewn over it. presents an illustration A of the revival of an old style of ornamentation. which is easily and readily executed on the machine. Remember. ness. This will require more care and thought at the outset. much attention. executed in different shades of orange and olive colored zephyr and crewel couching. the same design executed by hand. A most colored sateen. crewel. ful operator will AVe have seen a great variety of very elegant work in couching. (the three. and that personal judgment must always decide upon the details of any piece of work. the cord of each being made of orange colored embroidery silk. A variety of materials in various this way. Imitations of Oriental work can be executed in this stitch.) and three shades of apricot heavy as zephyr is worked double. the outside ring of each being of the deep first zephyr. The design is stamped on the wrong side. decorated with a conventionalized rose design executed in filoselle couching on each end. the leaves and flowers of all the other colors except the deep yellows. which for beauty and effectiveness far excel the product of the hand. by devoting a portion of each day for about three weeks. effects. but will give familiarity with the hues and tints. required over one year for completion. that laws and suggestions are only general assistants. The disks through the center are made of all the colors arranged with reference to harmony. devoting about the same amount of time per day. and a better knowledge of the laws of harmony. The latter not being as The tassels on the sides and bottom are made of all the colors and material used in couching. The border is made as follows: the scroll of shaded brown.

then ich around the leaf. It can be used on various kinds of scarfs. When tinting a back-ground care must be taken not to stitch beyond the design. giving the appearance or effect of a It can be used very effectively for tinting the back-ground in connection with certain kinds of applique.JL^^ DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK Instructions and Directions Continued. worked so as to leave the design in outline. filo floss. the darning covering all the ground. is thus used the darning should always be done first. take a leaf. commence so that the lines of darning will conform to the natural lines of the object represented by the design. Queen Anne Darning field for is susceptible of is a wide range of application and a fine ¥i^r¥¥r¥T Cut No. and make a perfect and continuous outline. It consists of parallel lines of darning with coarse silk of a contrasting color with the fabric on which used. as they should be. Use to be filoselle. which will complete it. and have each line end so that a line of darning will cover all these separate endings. back and forth. THIS is a kind of work that comes down to us from the seventeenth century. same as in hand. For The rows of stitching should be spaced the illustration. The stitch should be longer two kinds of material will have than for ordinary work and the tensions regulated so as to leave the goods perfectly smooth and show a perfect stitch. he edge and stem will be heavier than other For trts of the leaf. It is also used for working designs. which is to appear If working a design by filling it. the display of artistic effects in combination and variation of colors. so that the contour may be perfect. up through the center of the if lengthwise and back again on the same 1 le of stitches. following the outline curately. or sewing silk. 6. 14 . in outline. Queen Anne Darning. tinted back-ground. effect is superior to Directions. The first wound on spools. the days of Queen Anne. produced on the sewing machine by rows of stitching which in the work of the hand. 1 1 1 Application.work. This class of work is very effective and is leaving the ground the color of the fabric. 1 large or bold designs the effect can be greatly enhanced by outlining the design When Couching in the Couching stitch. commence with leaf the center or middle stem and work to the "-^ge. until the entire covered with lines of stitching.

Cu. Bolting cloth. It is finished on each edge with a hem and at the bottom the two rows of tassels are Is a tidy of — showing leaves. flowers white. was introduced in this Art. which cannot be obtained in the desired fabric. close harmony and subdued effect by means of tones of either the same or contrasting tidies. would suggest experimenting with 15 . and fruit orange color. The effect is most delicately pleasing. and they are most heartily commended to the consideration and practice of The process of needle-work tinting by means country by the New York Society of Decorative ground for designs cut out all operators. curtains. with surprising effect and at In order to become familiar with the effect of darning different kinds of material on different fabrics and in connection with different kinds of work. but adds to the richness and beauty of the work. silk. a very small cost for material. of darning. India for this DESIGN H. The most beautiful can be produced by the use of this class of designs. It is worked in darning with flloselle. The leaves green.— See The above design effects description on page 39. a kind of ornamentation called monochrome. The ornamentation is an orange spray ^nd fruit. It works well in designs of and ground same color. satins. It makes a beautiful back- of serge or cretonne. is an admirable one for this class of work. the use of darning not only overcomes the difficulty.t. For bed covers or hangings where a certain tint is required. Description of Cut No. bed covers. 6. DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK and stand covers. etc. etc. especially when they are tastefully appliqued in such a manner as to give the effect of blending the whole into one solid piece of work. study its complimentary color. flowers made of orange colored silk. Unbleached muslin can be used in this way in connection with applique ornamentation. varying only in tone.yj^^y. unbleached muslin and many other kinds of material are used kind of decoration. table flowers with design — colors. or the fabric may be of one color and the darning in Kule Avoid striking and sharp contrasts of color.

Couching and Braiding Applique are the simplest and easiest forms. Applique by the different kind of work. being careful to see that it is the full size of the design. Onlaid and Inlaid. another form of the same class of work with a wider and more varied Then follows Queen Anne Darning. If the work is to 16 . There is also Embroidery Applique. cutting closely to the line of couching. viz. By the "Domestic" Sewing Machine the execution of this kind of work is made most simple and easy. which will be treated under its proper head in There are two kinds of Applique. Applique. After stitching cut away the superfluous part of the material appliqued. Many of the old ecclesiastical adornments were largely made up of applique designs skillfully and artistically blended into the general design by means of embroidery. DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK Instructions and Directions Continued. knowledge and ability in the selection and arrangement of materials and colors. not to cut so close as to injure any of the stitches. have the design stamped on the wrong side of the ground material. the is next step field of application. If the work is to be executed in couching. "opus consutum" or "cut work" of past centuries occupies a prominent place in the South Kensington Museum. : Directions.iJ^^. following every part of the design. which opens up a field for the most and closest harmony of colors. wrought 7. with the greatest variety of Following in this line of systematic progress we now take up an entirely effects. as Avell as Cut No. this Hand with to easy progress of the Starting Book is a witli the simplest form of Art Needle-work on the machine (outlining by stitching). in presentation of work in THE order adoptedviewthe the natural and the various kinds of operator. another arrangement of stitching with beautiful combinations an entirely different effect. involving great care in details of mechanical execution. The former is the kind most generally used. The robes of royalty were delicately and gorgeous hangings with most intricate artistic designs in applique. that class of art work. hand is a somewhat tedious and difficult process. being careful however. in applique flowers and leaves. then baste the material to be appliqued securely to the right side of the ground material. prepare the machine according to the directions for couching. it has always held an importThe ant place in Art Needle-work. and then stitch carefully. a most interesting class of art productions. For Onlaid Applique prepare the goods to be used as follows. contributed in no small degi'ee to courtly splendor. however. Notwithstanding this fact.

Always adjust the vibrator so as to allow the most perfect freedom in turning the work without having to stop and raise the presserfoot with the hand. Use sharp and finely ^yointed scissors. The edges can be left as cut away or they may be finished with a line of gold or silk embroidery. panels.:^^_^ 'DOMESTIC'' ART NEEDLE WORK be executed in braiding. who can run a With machine on the ordinary lines of practical work. s. either by braiding or couching applique. 17 . Application. make it one of suit- the most desirable kinds of Art Needle-work for the amateur operator. prepare the machine accord- ing to the directions for the under-braider in the regular book of instructions for learning the "Domestic" Sewing Machine. etc. used for ornamenting Variety effectiveness of application. It improves nearly all ai)plique work to finish the edges with embroidery. Cut away the superfluous part of the applique material close up to the braid. Applique stamp or trace the design on the wrong side of device the material to be appliqued which must be securely Cut No. It is portieres. together with ease of execution. able designs any person. and when done cut away the ground so as to show the inlaid design. Braid or couch same as for onlaid work. table. stand and piano covers.braider is the simplest. scarfs of various kinds. basted on the back of the ground material. The range and of aj)plication is large and varied. easiest opera- ted and most perfect braiding For Inlaid in use. The "Domestic" U7ider . can produce most beautiful decorations. Prepare the material same as for couching applique and braid every part of the design by carefully following the stamped or traced pattern on the wrong side of the ground material.

and is usually called Venetian 'cinque cento. consist of scroll patterns and conventionalized forms of leaves and fiowers. Take royal purple velvet. of green sateen. It would simplify the arrangement of colors. ' with suitable colored silk braid. with sewing silk same color as the ground. A beautiful style of ornamentation for applique comes to us from Venice and Southwestern Europe. or pleasing design for use on a portiere. practical importance 18 . and a a center for the largest parts of the crimson velvet scroll. in — Is an easel scarf made of dark orange colored India silk. Very pretty draperies can be made of peacock blue serge with bands of turquoise ornamented with a conventional arrangement of oranges and leaves of yellow and green serge appliqued in couching with crewel. with a subordinate design of leaves and flowers in a pinkish red colored silk. The design is Oriental. This will be a little more difficult of execution. after which the superfluous parts of the lace were cut away and the edge finished with a line of Japanese gold thread put on with the embroidery attachment. etc. The silk. Other shade of green crewel. From these and adaptation of applique illustrations and suggestions the must be apparent to all. easily exe- Kismet or tinsel cord might be used instead of the gold This is an especially gold colored silk braid would be equally suitable. page 27. with leaves of Sumac in all their Autumnal colors. decorated with onlaid — applique of olive plush put on with gold braid.DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK Description of Cut No. with a ground of old gold. 7. in each corner with gold tinsel. Cut No. cut. appliqued and veined with gold thread. blue. arranged so as to form a border on each side. Finish the corners with tassels of variegated silk and gold. A most beautiful cushion cover can be made in this style of decoration. One end in a pinkish terra cotta colored silk and the other in around. through the center of which is appliqued with silk braid. ornamentation is a Nottingham lace design. Vein the leaves with a light The use of satin for the bands would be very effective. without impairing the beauty of the design. but the result will amply repay the effort. For instructions in Kensington Applique. materials and combinations of color might be used according to requirements of We have seen a most lovely sofa cushion surroundings and desired effect. as shown by the shaded lines and dots in the electric blue. Is a portiere of crimson colored sateen. The open portion of the figures were next worked in silk embroidery with the Kensington stitch. Cu-ts. then the figures were appliqued stitch. braid. and It is easily made. The leaves were made of plush. 8. good specimen of this kind of applique. and the It is finished with a hem about one inch wide all ends have tassels of orange colored silk. and applique." The designs A scarf. a bold scroll design in crimson velvet. Applique leaves and flowers in various shades of green silk from deep to lighter. It was lined with garnet satin and edged with a cord of garnet and gold. Have the center design in rich ivory yellow Arrange the border and center so that there can be interspersed conventional silk. a border with scroll designs in lemon yellow silk. see Kensington Embroidery. cuted and very effective. by using a dark moss green plush instead of the Autumnal tints. appliqued with the Kensington The lace was first securely basted to the silk.

9. and adjust the tension so as perfect stitch stitch. using arrasene. For the upper thread use the same color as in the shuttle. duction of some kinds of embroidery quite successfully. will its but a thought convince any impracticability person of for executing fine shading. and without some knowledge of their requirements. chenille or zephyr. WE now come to a class of work in filled so as to fully cover the which the designs are usually worked solid. for embroidery. This naturally involves more artistic ability and experience. The shuttle of the"Domestic" Sewing Machine will use. hence. The same laws governing color and shade in the production of Art Needle-work by hand apply to its execution on the sewing machine. chenille crewel. embroidery silks. arrasene. or ground material. no one need expect The shuttle is adapted to the proto attain a very satisfactory degree of success. Directions. 19 . for large sized materials in couch- See page 11. Shuttle Embroidery. Change the shuttle tension to suit the material. filling all and kinds of sewing. are More intricate ^^^r-^^^ j . using the shuttle is the necessity of having to execute without being able to see the work. for general There are those who recomall mend of the shuttle for kinds little embroidery.i^^Z^ "DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK Instructions and Directions Continued. and zephyr. but the process impractical is tedious. stitching close together so as to make Cut No. only such designs as require a solid color. because the Avorking of nearly all designs in solid embroidery requires more or less shading. thread the shuttle When according to instructions ing. we would advise the employment of other means. but where fine shading is The great difficulty in required. ^ ^ designs can be executed. or very really practical. to make a Lengthen the and have the rows of the embroidery solid. and really use. little shading.

crewel or zephyr by winding colors to suit the work. plain. or more times. an appropriate finish. table covers. cut the other edge. but patience and perseverence will enable the attainment of a high degree of excellence. crewel or chenille are always good.i^iS^^- DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK The design must be stamped. Use the vibrator so as to enable the turning of the work without lifting the presser-foot Application. For many kinds of work on wash goods. wind carefully and evenly around blotting paper about one inch wide. stitch across one edge. two. is Shuttle embroidery can be used on portieres. worked. so as to They should be appear as an essential part. Woven silk balls fringes of sewing silk. etc. Pompons. Description of Cut. and one of the most durable kinds of embroidery. When several colors are employed in the work. in perfect accord with the material and the work. 20 This compilation © Phoenix E-Books UK . and comb into fluffness by using a coarse dressing-comb. that fringes or tassels. The sumptuous fringes of j)ure silk found on old needle-work are rarely seen now. a flowering Cactus vine.. A fringe it made of felt. in shuttle embroidery. should be used as a finish. Cut No. — Is a portiere of olive sateen with a band of dark cardinal plush. tear out the Combine blotting paper. The operator should always bear in mind. tidies. then with the machine. with the hand. is a fringe made by ravelling the edge and afterwards knotting. with the ends of the cord by which the tassel is attached. Bangles. and the flowers of different shades of The effect is most pleasing. but its execution is always rather It requires condifficult and apt to be unsatisfactory to a majority of operators. or combed out to be fluffy. so as to make a heading. The leaves are made yellow of different shades of olive colored silk. silk. three. Instead of the olive. cut in fine strips. scarfs. on which is 9. as follows. where finishing various kinds of work. Crewel may be made into a fringe for very simple and effective finish. siderable experience to make solid embroidery in colors with the shuttle. is a can be appropriately used. The same amount of usually be more effort. or can often be used very effectively. cut at one side. or traced on the wrong side of the material. would satisfactory. corresponding colors of felt may be combined. and not as an ornament. cardinal colored sateen might be used with good effect. Tassels may be made of silk. for decorative needle-work. Fringes and Tassels for Finishing Needle-work. applied to some other kind of work on the machine. around card-board about one inch wide. tie through the center. rather than an optional appendage. also just below the top with a They may be left full and separate piece of the material used in making the tassel. or rings make an appropriate fringe for some kinds of work.

work have been produced by simply using different kinds of material. To meet this requirement we have the "Domestic" Embroidering Attachment. amongst the devices of this class. Fasten the embroiderer to the machine by means of the screw. Threading and Using the "Domestic" Embroiderer. but a point has now been reached Avhere the successful handling of materials in producing the most artistic effects in embroidery. Regulatino^. require that the work should be constantly under the eye of the operator. so that each step in the progress of execution may be accurately noted and controlled. perfect. Thoroughly practical. cut on the _ ^ inside cover. of back Before putting on the embroidering attachment. Embroidery with the Attachment.1^^^ "DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK Instructions and Directions Continued. . a most simple. For an see illustration of this Embroiderer. all of the various classes of art needle. to cross the 21 Cut No. or arrangement. and foot 2)ut on the that goes with the attachment. so as nut. for using all kinds of embroidery It is "par excellence" material. and easy to operate. reg- remove the ular presser foot. THUS far. Before tighten- ing the screw. Avithout any changes of adjustment. complete and reliable device. lO. durable. without any attachment.. behind the lower bearing of the jsresser-bar. Directions for Puttin^e: on. see that the fork of the driving arm is on the needle- Then lower the needle.

as to bring the needle into that position. and then the attachment is ready for use. stitch over the ends. Its work can be varied by changing the length of the stitch. or secondary colors. The machine should be threaded same as for ordinary sewing. Starting with the simpler designs. and the number. accordmaterial. For arrasene. or colors. besides executing In fact only takes about half as much as in hand much more rapidly and perfectly. the outside one of may be removed. it progresses onward to the most elaborate. so as to leave the ends free in starting. color and combinations of material used. so move the attachment. cut the embroidery material close to the needle. The spindles for carrying the spools of material should next be put in place. and when changing shades. and backward through the hole in the end of the finger. so that the end can be placed under the presser-foot. ing to the effect desired. Adjust the vibrator so that the presser-foot will clear the work and leave it perfectly free when turning. does not. easy of execution. There it is no waste of material in doing this kind of work on the machine. chenille. whilst for and other kinds fingers of light may both be employed. unless a varied effect is desired. and 22 . have the ends just long enough to pass backward for the presser-foot to hold in place. pass the material along the embroiderer arm through the guides on the side. so as to secure the attachment firmly. The shuttle thread should be drawn up through the throat-plate. and see that needle goes down midway If it between the two holes in the end of the fingers. When only one finger is used. To thread spool the attachment. only one finger should be used. work. and then tighten the screw. place the embroidery material on the i i Cut No. From the combination of a few primary. Application. and the place where changes are made can not be seen. The range of application of embroidery with the attachment is very great. When starting. The upper thread should always spindle. because of the variety of materials employed. and the scope of its adaptation. thread the other one same as the first. thread as in starting. be as near the color of the embroidery material used as possible. If both arms are to be used. kismet cord and various kinds of heavy silk material.»s/fSi^^^ »^^ the DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK embroiderer fingers. drawing it far enough through.

comphmentaries in the simpler forms.: DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK their m the execution of more elaborate designs. by showing efforts. panels for dresses and all kinds of embroidered ornamentations used in various kinds of garments. panels. scarfs of all kinds.. lambrequins. for color. This statement is and satisfactorially. bannerets. all come within the scope of application. for want of time. never could have made much progress by the hand. table. arrasene embroidery. Chenille embroidery. successfully success will be achieved harmony. many designs. who. Portieres. a field worthy of the best . etc. Also. may it embraces almost every hue and tint Whilst any person with an ordinary eye execute. stand and piano covers. the highest by those who have some knowledge of the laws of color and not made to discourage..iJ^i. the highest attainments are now possible to many. but rather to encourage. By means of the sewing machine.

They The silk. the silk is cut on each side. veined with chenille. Tlie bird is worked in blue tablet silk. A very effective af)plication of embroidery ornamentation.— Is a double panel screen. it is admirable. twenty-three inches square. with brown silk centers. and for finishing the edges of after cutting applique work. 12. After stitching through the center. and the shams with one. every kind of material. made to stand out by winding three or four times around a small piece of blotting paper. the roses and buds are ribbon work applique. 2 brown chenille. The mirror is nine and one-half ' — inches square. The flowers are rose colored plush applique. Description of Cuts. the Spanish lace with which they are finished. on any kind of in texture. 1 3. This is a most elegant design. Tlie worked with two or three shades of lavender colored embroidery The flowers strewn over the spread are made as follows. In short. with a blue bird flying towards it.J^k^ DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK various kinds of tinsel and kis- met embroider}'. For the production of applique designs in mosaic work. Cut No. The decorations are two sprays of roses. both measurements being inside of. etc. shaped so as to fit into center of flower. In each corner is worked a bunch of thistles. is is done on black On one the beautiful golden rod. 11. the daisies are worked in different shades of yellow arrasene. 13. sewed on fine net lining. silk all kinds of embroidery. Is a peacock blue plush mirror frame. Shams to accompany it are twenty-two inches square. and is appropriate for use on a variety of kinds of material. leaves are veined is fringe-like part of the flower and the balls dotted with embroidery silk. 24 . Cut No. forty by forty-four inches. crewel embroi- dery. and the leaves are arrasene. leaves and rails. away of the superit is fluous parts. made side is of cherry Tlie frame and the work satin. and the leaves are arrasene. The word 'Domestic" is worked in different shades of No. exquisite. On the other panel is Cut No. The set from which the engraving was made is of bolting cloth. growing up through some old corner. and the blotting paper torn out. worked with arrasene in the natural colors of the flowers.— Represents a most elegant bed spread. rails. and not including. The leaves and ball part of the flower are worked with are arrasene. Cut N"o. veined with small chenille. The edges of the spread are finished with two rows of Spanish lace. from one a branch of Sumac in all its brilliant Autumnal colors. about one-quarter of an inch wide. The Spread and Shams are lined with cream-colored silesia. used hand work.

. etc. with dado and frieze of plush two shades darker. Shows a portiere of cardinal-colored satin sheeting. — sateen. Cut No. with cat-tails in brown arrasene.^L^ DOMESTIC'' ART NEEDLEWORK 14. made of wine colored dado of plush about one shade darker. Avith — . most pleasing. 15. To make the clusters of grapes stand out. and the grapes with tinsel. and on frieze of one and one-half inches. green and gold for the leaves. each grape is worked on a separate Cut No. The ornamentation is a water scene executed in gold. with spaces on dado of two inches. Represents a pair of folding door portieres. The lattice work is made of iridescent kismet. silver and copper-colored tinsel. and easily executed designs for tinsel work we have ever seen. the leaves and vine with green and brown arrasene. This design is very effective when executed in colored tinsel. The grape vine on dado is worked as follows. using blue for the flags. The effect is gorgeous. the veining on the leaves Avith small chenille. This is one of the best.

To attain this. the hand will find a most reliable kind of needle art-work. assistant in every in Art Needle-work.r. because it should is wonderfully increased. often clear idea. 23 on page 38.ii^x^- DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK j)iece of cloth and filled with cotton. piece of 1 effect. the power of to execute with astonishing rapidity. but when it is coupled with the sewing machine. interlining of canton flannel. The consideration of embroidery. easy of execution. instead of the hand. but with the "Domestic" Embroiderer Attachment. care must be exer- cised. of course. with monogram worked in various colors of silk embroidery. In the application of chenille. prominently before the reader. brings this question. of Macliine versus Hand in perfect accord. so as to clusters. but very ornamental in effect. that the machine multiplies the power of production. this impediment is fully overcome. crewel and kismet embroidery. the operator will be able compared with the work of the hand. be fully understood. that Art Needle-work by the sewing machine. so that. trimmed with plush bands. both to intended use. contribute the attainment to of most i^leasing With a of the purpose be attained. 26 . Cut No. there may be proper Combinations in the same results. except. quality of the work produced by it. requires the same knowledge requisite for hand work. is a banneret. 20 on page 31. to hand work. silk. make the made up with an and silesia. Cut No. and greatly lessens the labor. 5. Avith the various materials used with the embroiderer attachment. and desired Cut No. unless fully uj) to the requisite standard of acceptable hand composition. and then appliqued It is to the plush. They are and in the use of the machine. if not superior. Many kinds of embroidery material. of these to materials. as production We emphasize this thought. should be satisfactory. is a Japanese jDanel of black satin worked with Japanese gold thread. in every respect equal. adaptation. a lining of old gold colored This hanging illustrates a com- bination of materials in Art Needle- work. No production of the sewing machine in art work. work. is the same as Art Needle-work by the hand. are very difficult of application by the hand. and the. on black satin. arrasene.

is attached to the shuttle lever. or Kensington Embroidery. is properly called '•Opus Plumarium/'or Feather Stitch. finest The operator will find. When the screw is loosened. The latter is it where held in position by a screw. England. landscapes. and Kensington is really a misnomer.. the rod will drop down. Prepare the machine by dropping the feed bar. was the making of figures. and the work always moved by the of stitches direction. which 27 . both in respect to artistic and range of application. an unlimited field. if manipulated by the feed of the machine. in this class of art skill. by the use of black and white silk. Cut No. irregular stitch. with a short.Ji^t^ 'DOMESTIC ART NEEDLEWORK Instructions and Directions Continued. This is necessary. and the attainment of the effects in color.. and for that reason is often called THE Kensing- ton. Instruictlons. or most important stitch. machine. For this reason the feed is dropped out of the way. producing an effect something like etching. kind of embroidery usually denominated Kensington. and the work of the machine in this stitch is generally known by that name. Eemove the presser foot and use instead the Kensington foot. revived largely through the influence of the Eoyal Art School. From this resemblance it was called etching. 1 6. that Kensington Foot. etc. which is done by removing the feed lifting rod. It is an old kind of embroidery. hands. Feather Stitch. properly. The first attempt in the production of this stitch by the sewing Avork of the hand. embroidery. ^ The modern name It is vary in length. The stitches are so taken in and between each other as to blend perfectly the the chief. "Feather Stitch" embroidery. for the production of the is most elegant embroidery. and it can then be removed from the feed bar. Shading scarcely inferior to the brush. at South Kensington. but this so called etching is only a variety of the Feather or Kensington stitch. Its production by the ^'Domestic" Sewing Machine is so perfectly like the it can truly be called its crowning work. in the line of Art Needle-work productions. and colors used. because this kind of embroidery requires various length and frequent changes of and could not be controled or directed. can be done by this stitch.

It is especially suitable for embroidering flowers. as shown in Cut No. It can be used on landscapes. 1 7. the work in feather stitch. birds. holding. lating the work. effect the stitch fully Then start on a simple of fully design. For various kinds of Applique work it is preferable to all other connection with many kinds of arrasene embroidery means. m portieres. and it is ready for work. For this kind of work. 16. Beginners should until of first practice with cotton thread some degree of ease and freedom is movement attained. raise the vibrator just high enough. of also. and a wide realm of application lies at the operator's command. or stamped on the right side of the goods. It is very desirable with the embroidery attachment. to prevent the foot from jyrcssing on the goods at any time. piano. animals. It requires a little practice to get when once acquired is an easy. bangles. stretch tightly over embroidery hoops. and detailed Cut No. requiring but little tinting The ground should be is fill covered. or in For working flowers on a tinted able. Cut No. the design. etc. lambrequins. or sewing silk. 16. is an extra ' the Rest the arms on the table of the machine. but the most fascinating kind of Art Needle-work. but can be obtained of any dealer in In order to secure perfect freedom in manipu'Domestic" Sewing Machine. decorative raquets and tambourines. or Kensington embroidery. Also. Cu-ts. and filling. dresses and other garments. so as to get an easy and steady movement. 16. etc. colors. tion of tapestries of most marvelous beauty and effect. are almost innumerAlone. see description of For complete explanation. etc. The material stretched 28 .rjjj^^ DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK foot. the subjects for its application. combination with other kinds of Art Needle. instructions. etc. even movement of the hands. with the forefinger of each hand thrown over on the inside.work. for the produc- Description of Cut No. bannerets. use filo-floss. not furnished with machine. according to the Application. After having the design traced. the nature and understood. table and stand covers. so that the thumbs will rest on the outside. panels. all kinds of scarfs. it is most effective. which explains the position of the hands. which accomplished by Avorkin every ing over until the stitches part of effect desired. and manipulating is first — Illustrates the manner of preparing. back ground of Queen Anne darning. taking hold of the hoops. The acme of Art Needle-work has now been reached.

one from the other. worked in the Kensington It is trimmed wit h Oriental lace. A'unique.JL^^ DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK For very fine goods. finished. when or shorter stitches. Cut No. Begin the work by stitching along the outline. being careful that each stitch conforms to the direction necessary to secure Then. When completed. 19. so to form a close even edge. and the flagging and stone. it is sometimes necessary to wrap the smaller. Shows a grenastitch. in animal and This piece of work is executed in silk. firmly. so as to get an easy. or in the direction necessary to the proper form. with the stitches converging irregas tightly as possible over hoops. towards each other. with flowers. the stitches should be indistinguishable.— Shows a Royal Bengal Tiger. worked in the silk in Kensingthe nat- ton stitch. with the other fingers on the outside. of the objects represide The and bottom is finished with insertion. Avith longer. or inside hoop with muslin. the forefingers are thrown over on the inside. 1 8. so as to make the outer hoop fit tight enough to hold the goods to be embroidered. giving to the whole surface. rich and even effect. The hoops are grasped so that the thumbs are on the outside. The stitch. and most elegant hanging. when finished. 18. and loops and ends. or Kensington said to be the basis of Cut No. leaves and birds. with a strip of olivecolored satin. in stone colors. at the The embroidery is a spray of apple blossoms. ularly toward the center. 29 . fill in the design from the outer edge. with ural colors sented. Cut No. The arms rest on the machine table. even and steady movement. The animal in the sepia shades. and is a fine illustration of the work of the ''Domestic" Sewing Machine figure embroidery. is feather. colors. a smooth. a natural form of the flower. in natural bottom. 17. — Is of cardinal plush. an apron made with a broad piece of light blue satin. edged with antique lace. Cut No. of cardinal and light blue satin ribbon. or other objects. — dine curtain. It is a masterpiece of work in this line.

is a very old kind of embroidery. by the same the "stem stitch" and "satin movement employed The production in manipulating the feather stitch. stitch. Thus. a difference between the appearance of flowers. There is. differing purpose of producing certain effects. Then. of course. This latter." which is another adaptation of embroidery by threads laid on the surface. so as to lie along-side of each other. with a view to the production of different effects. Its use now. for the The "stem stitch" is used for stalks and stems "featlier stitch'" is used for flowers. There are several stitches in of the two stitches. corresponding to the difference in objects represented. there is the "satin stitch. specimens of it having come to us from nearly all nations and periods. very similar. of embroidery. by this free hand movement. and enables the production of a great variety of Art stitches. but the difference. all modern embroidery. for small masses of embroidery. Both. where a rich effect is It is employed quite extensively. in mechanical regularity. in some kinds of Japanese and Chinese desired. or effect. to the other. It is produced by passing the thread from one outline of the design embroidery. which can not. widens the range of Needle-work by the machine. be distinguished from the work of the liand. the only in their application." are executed on the machine. really consists in the application. . and leaves. Roman and Venetian embroideries come under the range of work executed by this movement. in their appearance.IJ^^^'- "DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLE WORK hand work. is principally.

velvet. clear good way to stretch many kinds of is by wetting a clean cloth in water. When the work is on linen. careful stretching sary. and press through it with a warm iron. or puckered. Remember ahoays. "DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK Finishing Treatment of Work. a little flour paste. ing Look whatever carefully after all the little details of finishing. or table. with alum in it. especially in all hangings. is 31 . as though of vital importance to your future welfare. Then apply the paste carefully on the back of the embroidery and leave until thoroughly dry. however simple the subject. For silk. it should not be fringed until after it has been stretched. secur- it evenly in place with tacks. should be well done. sateen. when a piece of work is badly drawn. Cultivate the habit of thoughtful painstaking. or There should always be improper finishing. finely as failures. is often desirable for the back of the embroidery. Care must be taken not to use tacks that will rust. always neces- A embroidery. if you would escape the subsequent annoyance of unnecessary imperfection in finishing treatment. because of incomplete. or plush material. it may be necessary to lay a damp cloth over the back of the embroidery. using tacks. wrought embroideries are passed and examples of poor conception and design. down upon and stretch until perfectly smooth. if it can be avoided. Spread a clean blanket. Place the work with the right side it. except on the back of the embroidery. Avoid undue haste. there will be an apparent increase of power. 20. cold wring out and place Place smoothly on a clean board. the work on it face upwards and stretch tightly until perfectly smooth. Do not allow the paste to touch the material. not use an iron on embroidery. or other suitable material on a table or board. VERY Many much depends upon the finishing of a piece of Art Needle-work. However. or draAving pins to hold in position. is To attain this.^j^^y. that worth doing. in order to get the full effect of the design as executed. Let every piece of work be as carefully finished. and with the completion of every effort thus carefully executed. as it flattens the work and is apt to injure colors. to be finished with fringe. Do Cut No. perfect smoothness of surface and regularity of design.

appliqued to a square of scarlet silk. letters and lines of gold thread. The Crown m 32 . the Banner suspended from it of black silk. in a new and striking arrangement. with the Maltese Cross and Motto outlined gold thread. of tinsel. The Keystone is of white satin. The Passion Cross is of red silk. appliqued to a square of blue silk. The Bible is made of white satin. representing all of Masonry.) Masonic Banner. Square and Compass and letter G. THE above cut shows a most beautifully wrought banner.J^z^ DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK (Copyrighted.

appliqued with gold thread in saw stitch. to adaptation and fitness. than in some others. a special or particular use.. is one of primary importance. with every person engaged in any form of art work. work designs Inventive. but entirely from its natural growth or order. foreign to nature. The question. so as to appear different most pleasingly beautiful. Invejitive designs are imaginary prothe ductions. The Banner is made of old gold colored satin. Art Needle classes. or forms a part of an existing style. becomes a personal one. and practical art ability. Design in art work really means." or in other words. Art Needle-work is no exception. blade of silver. therefore. They are sometimes called geometric designs. hilts of gold. in all art work. in proportion to the range of personal knowledge. plant. prominent adapting it in to its natural formation. ''a plan of any work mind. sword-hilt of gold. drawn out in the and styles. Conventional designs are special adaptations of natural objects to DESIGN 33 I. a leaf or a flower is taken and combined into A a design.— See description on page 4(X . and the requirements of fitness and adaptation are really more exacting. it is a personal conception of figures in their proper relation of art. The double Eagles are Design-Adaptation and Fitness. and its requirements are appreciated. Conventional designs are the connecting links between the Inventive and Natural. in ivory colored silk embroidery' suspended by gold clasp and links. in this connection. hence.J^^k^ DOMESTIC^ ART NEEDLEWORK '^^ The Sword blades are of silver wrought in gold thread on royal puri^le silk. formed by use of lines and angles used in drawing. THE question of design. are of three Conventional and Natural. is of gold tinsel and thread. because the work of the needle usually supplements. jeAvels. and are made as follows.' with the squares in each corner and cross in center. The Sword and Crescent are on a square of white silk. by means of the geometrical lines and curves. or line of decoration. and the Crescent. with colored tinsel.

and their execution by the sewing machine. are the result of the power of < knowledge. The question of color stands so intimately related to design. applea loss for designs. leaves and grasses. After having decided upon a design. but as far as possible. Geometrical or Inventive designs are only adapted to large pieces of work. with due reference to the requirements of adaptation and fitness. are best adapted to the production of Art Needle-work. Natural designs are reproductions from natural objects. as well as skill to properly execute. for which they are not naturally fitted. lilies. DESIGN J. will greatly aid in selecting knowledge and determining.. Flowers are always favorite designs. a table or stand cover. and their adaptation. controlled and directed by an active and discriminating judgment. never attempt its execution until careful study has given complete knowledge of its make-up. . or blossoms. whenever taken as the model. by rapidity of comes into prominence with is nature execution." and in nothing is this truer. that it often exerts a controlling influence in determining adaptation and fitness. next to Conventional. Conventional designs have the widest range of adaptation and the accomplishment of the most beautiful effects in needle. rugs and furniture. that "knowledge is power. style and color of carpets. or draw their own designs. but their use requires care and judgment in determining fitness. often modified in detail by omitting the minuteness of nature's finish. The color of wall decorations. for embroidery. etc. observing operator. It is not expected that all operators in Art Needle. In cities and large towns. and flowers Do not crowd leaves aboutthe stems. must necessarily weigh heavily when deciding upon a design for a hanging. and enables Natural designs. carnations.work. in a stiff bouquet. but a of the classes of designs. fitness. The ability to select. Time. learn to depend upon yourself.DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK particular uses in decoration. dogwood.-See 34 description on page 40. make delightful subjects for study.work on the ''Domestic" Sewing Machine. will be able to sketch. wild roses. because the question of color its imperative demands for truthfulness. as to adaptation and fitness. thus taken in preliminary study. Daisies. Op Give plenty of room for detachment from the ^^^''^ back ground. than in the selection of designs for Art Needle-work. etc. However. but true to form and general effect. most beautiful effects can be produced by them when properly used. cherry. there are always facilities for securing good designs. and are little used in Art Needle-work. but Never group aim to secure a natural and easy arrangement. will be more than made up. will never be at how to execute them. pansies. daffodils. It has been truly said. The thoughtful.

. °'"'"™'* ''' ""^ ^^"^^^^ Color and Harmony. make green. a tertiary color formed.^iy»ui . J in the '-Domestic" Sewing Machine.u3[jj(. Red and j^ellow violet or purnle "SlI is ' By compound^l. white and gold are neutral colors.nf • 35 . Black. or and easiest of the simplest methods is by the use of transfer paver which secure the pattern upon the material. How QNE to Copy. Gold will act as vellow >. Transfer.th„» yelS^nd Wuelrtiarir '" '^"'""'^'^'^' ^^""''^"^ '" *'^^ ""^ --<>. the admixture of two secondary colors.jj> ^^ Get Designs.(. Bed and blue compounded." Xr'ol^d 1^^"^^ ^t "^ '^""r"^' ^"^ *° "' '^^-''^-^ orange. more aXll.Tl!: orange '"' ^^"""' T° T" «<».4iiri j. make compounded. and pounce over the hoLTfth orS.

cause each to appear of deeper tone than it naturally is. Thus.work in colors. or green. as will be seen by the following diagram of colors. the missing primary is called its complimentary. produced by different tones of the same color. Blue and yellow. The other numerals in like manner show corresponding complimentaries. alogous pleasing effects Most may be it. or tone. red is the complimentary of green. : T This harmony of is col- ors by complimentaries. meaning that red and green are complimentary colors. because green is composed of the other two primaries. that the eye cannot view any one color without another being color. for the same reason. Another effect of juxtaposition of certain colors is to change the hue. harmony and effect of deduced from standard authorities on this subject. and the dark color. may be the complimentary of red. Black. The same numerals on opposite sides. are is them of primal importance in the execution of 36 . the complimentary of a primary is the secondary or compound color composed of the other two primaries thus. brilliancy are splendor the contrast harmony by means the complimentary colors must be resorted to. called This is harmony of ancolors. green and red placed side by side. The other colors stand related in the same way. Tlie reason for this is. or wlien placed beside blue. or. or scales more or less ap- proximating. The themselves of the information contained in some standard following laws respecting contrast. a light color brought in contact with a dark color. exert an effect the one upon the other. and a knowledge of all kinds of Art Needle. show complimentary colors. of contrast. Would advise all operators in Art Needle-work to avail manual of colors. called the harmony and the of contrast. Thus. called a single scale of color. according to their natural relations. When different colors are employed their effect will be in accordance with the laws.J^k^^ DOMESTIC' ART NEEDLEWORK In a compound color. Thus. darker. whilst the blue shows but little alteration. 1 at the bottom indicates red. and when juxtaposed. produced by but deof of where and sired. is There another class of harmonies. causes the light color to appear lighter than it is. tones of of contrasting colors should be nearly equal intensity. with a spot of blue on it. becomes rusty looking. at the top 1 represents green.

Mere outline may be good. to assist in the separation of objects and parts and thus give assistance to form. is: colors. as an important adjunct. that afford the highest degree of satisfaction. . and perfect harmony improves each are of the contrasting colors. if the ornament is darker than the ground. The color of the ground has to be carefully considered. but if the ornament is lighter than the ground. and the rarest harmonies frequently lie on the verge of discord. mere light and shade may be pleasing. However. a color should be outlined with a darker shade of its own. When the color and ground are in two tints of the same color. it will require outlining with a still darker tint. well proportioned opement depends upon color. is cast bkie is is viewed in like tvhaiever is viewed the eye creates orange. The effect of color in Art JSTeedle-work can not be overestimated. and when green produced. The "First. which I understand. but its devel- Cut No. in each case." DESIGN K. which falling on the black makes it appear rusty. a lighter tint of its own color must be used for outlining it. but they do not gratify. and if not present will create the ciency. When is manner red nearest. which creation. and a gold color on a colored ground should be outlined in black. Form can exist without color. to lend new charms of objects. then. it will not require any outline. and second. to objects. Thus. either in their purity or in combination. red is viewed the eye creates green. When yellow is looked upon. Form seems in to demand color. harmoniously arranged object of color.— See description 37 on page 40. are subtleties harmony.J^^k^ DOMESTIC ART NEEDLE WORK created. and the object of color should never be lost sight of. When upon defi- Agreeable there contrast produces of harmony. with a difficult to [gold-colored ground. but it is not satisfying. 22. When a color is on a ground in direct harmony with it. and it is only and graceful forms. purple is created The eye demands the presence of the three primary colors.

costing $3.00 per yard.00 to 15. about $2.00 per yard. suitable for portieres. but embraces the principal kinds of materials. but expensive. When all silk. fifty inches wide. given for the benefit of those who may not have selves facilities for familiarizing them- with the various kinds of materials adapted thereto. portieres. Linen momie is used for draperies.85 to $4. and is much used. soft folds. is faced Price The best colors fifty maroon. 23.00 to $1. wide. panel Cut No. inches wide and costs about $3. It is and comes in the leading artistic colors.50 per yard. somewhat like Turcoman in appearance. fifty-four inches wide. fifty inches Very desirable. and principally It usually comes in olive. chair and table covers. are old gold. hangs in rich. and costs about $1. made double and Linen velours $2. and costs $2. and costs from 18. single faced. table covers. or portieres.50 to $10. or may be used.^i^^y- DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK Material Used for Art Needle-work.50 per yard. Woolen 2ilush can be used for heavy draperies. It Surah satin and wool back. Indian red and used for curtams. *HE following list is of textiles. costs from $7.00 per yatd. It is fifty inches wide. as Turkish and Surah satin. Felting is used very generally for table covers.50 per yard. It comes in about the same colors. Cotton momie costs $1. It is not a complete enumeration of everything that is. Plushes for draperies.50 per yard. but not so expensive. Costs from 11. like woven chenille. old gold. for use in Art T' Needle. etc. inches wide. at from 12. maroon colors.00 to $3. back. silk faced and cotton Sateen is a similar kind of material in appearance.00 per yard. and cost from $1.. similar to the surah and very desirable. it is called silh Shclali. Haw silk momie It is cloth is fifty an excellent material for draperies. are the all handsomest and fifty most brilliant materials.work.50 per yard. inches wide twenty-four inches wide. is similar to flax velours. etc. cream and olive. screen panels. Flax velours is a new fabric.10. and costs from $2. Turkish satin. It is fifty inches wide and costs $1. etc. is much is used in Art Needle-work. mantel valances.50 per yard. wide.60 per yard.50 per yard.00 to $10. etc. screens. is Turcoman cloth is a beautiful fabric.00 per yard. It is seventy-two inches wide and can be had in almost any shade. It comes twenty-four inches 38 . has It is silk a smooth surface and very desirable for hangings and portieres. They come in the leading colors.

screen panel.00 to 14. is or in combination with rare beauty. cloth. The embroidery is all done with the "Domestic" Embroiderer Attachment. page 4. Suitable for easel or table 39 . For use anywhere such an ornament would be suitable. and India perfect liberty is accorded. table cover. muslin. the material is always suitable for the intended use. the girdle. page embroidery. the jewels and metallic ornaments are worked in natural colors. It was made on the In detail. the execution is as follows. A. Anne darning and scarf. silk '•Domestic" 8ewing Machine. bed covers. or solid silk Design worked applique. fancy Work in silk. Design B. linen sheeting. Design D. the cap. — This a conventional design of is in couching outline. arrasene or tinsel embroidery.00 per yard. screen panel. which is of the Orient. etc. 13. For couching outline. DESIGN" Work 2. will be found a masterpiece of Art Needleentitled. scarf. the Queen of the Orient. the fan. bamboo scrijm. Oueen ON" work. worked in Description of Designs. page — Wild table cover. to be worked in Queen F. with tablet silk. Roman stripes. in arrasene or chenille embroidery. the flesh tints are in solid stitching. tambourine tops. etc. — arrasene — A conventional design. in natural colors. so interwrought as to produce a bronze effect. and can be Queen Anne darning and suitable for a portiere. and the leaves and grasses are made of arrasene and chenille embroidery. scarf. Woodbine. 6. Design E. It costs from 12. silk or can be used on portiere. This design works up most beautifully in silk. It page 7. in outline. suitable for working in couching G. — — embroidery. suitable for braiding. the last page of cover (outside). etc. silk embroidery. Design embroidery. Bolting cloth is used for very delicate work and is an excellent foundation for embroidered curtains. sofa pillow. bags. Avith the feather or Kensington stitch. page — Daisies. There is no defined rules governing the selection of materials. the stone is wrought with wool arrasene embroidery of a stone color. Can be used on table scarf. etc. blue satin arrasene embroidery. For pin cushion or mat. with tinsel embroidery. the dress is cardinal-colored arrasene embroidery. outlining. couching and braiding or couching applique. the vase is made of different colored tinsel embroidery. washing fabrics used are crash. with silk and gold thread. Design outline. and the feathers gold colored. and can be used on portiere or table page —Another conventional design. the handle ebony colored. provided. also. embroidery. 5. cheese cloth. PAGE outline. or silk Design II. page 3. 15. sofa pillow.Jx<^^- DOMESTIC" ART NEEDLEWORK F«^^ Among cloth. but are familiar to all butcher's linen. oat-meal mull. These last and can be obtained almost anywhere. with flesh colored sewing silk. roses. It C. For use on portiere.

into a most interesting field of so with a consciousness of the importance of the work. are embraced in Domestic Decorative Art NeedleDesigns D. for formulating plans. Design K. but this incompetent and unintelligent efforts. difficulty of satisfactorily Oiir aims have been the lessen- ing of labor. Its adaptation to the use of every kind of material. possessed. page 37. For use on corner of table. accomplishing it. an increased interest in this ennobling and refining work of the home. it is hoped there may be guiding it. I and work stamping outfit. and braid or couching applique.work. appreciation. and artistic capabilities. have been more in the nature of a guide to the use of a new means of Our efforts execution. To be worked in silk embroidery or Design J. couching outline. K For braiding. or piano cover. and the consequent extension of the scope of its production. for the production of work in any sort of design. F. and is suitable for use on a table. 4-0 . time and expense requisite for the production of Art Needle-work of the highest order of merit.^Ji@^yl DOMESTIC 'ART NEEDLEWORK 3^ag^ For use on portiere. is by the careful study of art-works of known excellence. will be in proportion to the knowledge The only way in which the power of art-production. worked in braid. bias Art Needle-work by the sewing machine. as well as artin many displays of so-called Art Needle-work. but its efficiency. — — Conventional. Conventional. production of every kind of Art Needle-work. and a more Prejudices is may exist against no doubt largely the result of general revival of the production of Art Needle. as well as ability to appreciate. Work we do of a General Guide. page 34. and braiding or couching applique. rather than directions. as shown Art-production. outlining. Tlie pradicaUlity of the new means of production has been fully demonstrated by the illustrations and descriptions of work executed by it. couching outline. The "^Domestic" Sewing Machme is an invaluable assistant in the studious effort. gives it the widest range of practical fitness. No mere Proficiency is only the result of looking at works of beauty will make an artist. IN individual and the concluding the effort. or art-appreciation. to be executed. range of application. or methods. E. will depend upon the knowledge and judgment With this means for more rapid production. and the degree of success in producing. page 33. can be gained. on every variety of texture.— Fern leaves. Conclusion. or stand cover. Design" I. requires a knowledge of art-principles.

For ease of management. to the production of t7ie hand. will be seen the other one. 4. spool spindles for carrying the embroidery material: on the opposite side. Family. reliability and durability. range of work. This compilation © Phoenix E-Books UK . NEW YORK. are the embroidery finc/eni. and in some. in all respects. production is as easy as the ordinary lines of practical work. is the embroiderer foot. this embroiderer is unexcelled. requires no special adaptation. • A. Its work in this line is equal. is the set screio for attaching Embroiderer to machine. ^3. Broadway AND Fourteenth St. superior. is the fork of driving arm. each and every machine being fitted therefor. F*RICE. is one of the CC. O O o o o o Q ^ V KOR ALL KINDS OK ART NEEDLE-WORK • THE "Domestic" S^win.Q^ Machine Is most perfectly adapted. its By It meanji of this machine..00. It uses every kind of material on any kind of texture. which goes on the ueedle-nut. and most critical tests are invited. F. The closest comparisons. B."ROM ESTIC" EMBROIDERER. D. "Domestic" Sewing Machine Co. No.

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