Sci-Fi Vest 2: Wrath of Khan

 2005 Jenifer Paulousky for Blue Alvarez Designs http://www.bluealvarez.com Yarn: MC – Pippi Knee Socks’ When Doves Cry bulky variegated merino, skeins vary (approx. 150 yds used). [http://www.pippikneesocks.com] CC1 – Blue Sky Alpaca’s Polar Bear undyed bulky alpaca, 1 skein (approx. 65 yds). CC2 – Blue Sky Alpaca’s Peace Pink hand dyed bulky alpaca, 1 skein (approx. 65 yds). Gauge: 2 St./3 rows = 1” on #15 US needles Size: Calculated based on pattern (see below). Size shown may be considered small, and was designed for an average female with a bust of 34” What you should know: This pattern is designed to be made to your measurements, where you are comfortable with the fit. So I offer you the calculations you need to make it happen, rather than stitch-for-stitch instructions. Think of it like a Hamburger Helper – you supply the meat, I’ll supply the fixin’s. All sizes start the same: Collar: CO 36 stitches in CC1, pm, and join. Work in a 2x2 rib for 9 rounds, then switch to MC for another 3 rounds. On the next round, work until there are 11 stitches left before the marker. BO these remaining 11 stitches. This will require you to knit into the first stitch after the marker in order to BO the 11th stitch. You can remove the marker at this point.

Continuing around in the same direction (RS), work 7 (including the one already knit – see above), pm, work 11, pm, work remaining 7. Turn to face WS. You will now work the shrug in the flat. Sizing and back: Measure these two areas – 1. Start in front of you, from your underarm, over your arm, across your back, over your opposite arm, to your opposite underarm. It is like measuring your circumference just below your shoulders, but you are leaving the whole front out (see diagram). 2. Start at the bottom side of your neck and measure diagonally across your back to your underarm (see diagram).

The idea is to work the shrug with regular raglan increases at either side of the markers like this: Work first stitch in row, YO, work to one stitch before marker, YO, work 2, YO, work to one stitch before next marker, YO, work 2, yo, work to one stitch before end of row, YO, work last stitch. How often you increase and for how long you increase is determined by your measurements. You want to do increase rows until your increase line equals measurement 2 in length, and the widest point of the shrug is as wide as measurement 1. A good rule of thumb to get you started (or if you don’t want to do all the math below) is that people with chests 35” and smaller have better luck increasing every 3rd row until the shrug is long enough (hits you just below the underarm), while 36” and above can usually increase every other row until they reach the desired length. Although the chest measurement is not needed for this shrug, it is a guiding factor based on the shoulder and back widths that generally accompany those sizes. To calculate exactly how many stitches and rows you need (based on this pattern’s gauge), you can use the following formulae.

Stitches needed: measurement 1 (in inches) x 2 Rows needed: measurement 2 (in inches) x 3 Number of stitches added per increase row: 6 Number of increase rows needed (#inc, i.e. how many total rows should include yarn overs): (final number of stitches - 25) / 6 If you get a fractional number for #inc, round to the nearest whole number (ex. 6.5 and above become 7, 6.4 and below become 6). This is how many of your rows will be YO rows. How often you should place an increase row: (total rows needed) / (#inc) Again, if this is not a whole number, round to the nearest whole number. Work your shrug using the numbers you have calculated, working all increases into the ribbing. Sleeves: When you have reached the desired length, place all stitches from the beginning of the row to the first raglan marker on the needle, and all remaining stitches on holders. Before joining the active stitches in thr round, count the number of stitches on the needle. If it is not a multiple of 4, CO as many stitches as required to make the full count a multiple of 4. Then join in the round with the RS facing you. Work in a 2x2 rib for 3 rounds in the MC. Switch to CC2 and work for 2.5”, then switch to CC1 and work for an additional 1”. BO loosely. For the second sleeve, place the stitches from the opposite end of the back up to the second marker on the needle, leaving the remaining back stitches on a holder. Follow the instructions from above, remembering the the most important part is to join the stitches in the round with the RS facing you. Back: Place the remaining center stitches on the needle. These should be the stitches that fell between the two raglan markers. Work 3 rows in a 2x2 bin in the MC, then switch to CC2 for 1.5”, then CC1 for 1”. BO loosely. Finishing: Work in any loose ends. Blocking isn’t necessary, since the piece is meant to stretch over your body fairly snuggly.