KEYINGREDIENT

Ramping Up For Spring

BY CHEF WILLIAM DISSEN

arrival of the seasons first ramps. Allium tricoccum, aka the ramp, is a member of the lily family and is cousin to garlics, leeks, and onions. Often called wild leeks or wild garlic, you will know why they have evolved into a plant of lore once you take your first biteand so will anyone within the nearest city block. With their broad green leaves, purple stalk, and scallion-like bulb, the ramp hides on hillsides across the United States but grows prolifically throughout Appalachia. During a recent hike along the Blue Ridge Parkway with my wife, Jenny, and our good friend Alex, our black lab, Cooper, suddenly ran off trailit was then I noticed the flat and broad green leaf blowing in the wind. As Cooper ran up the steep embankment, my mind started spinning with elation. We had stumbled upon a swath of wild ramps almost a hundred yards in length. What was supposed to be a simple hike in the woods turned out to be an afternoon of harvesting what an unexpected treat!
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to me, nothing says spring like the

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PHOTO BY VALERY RIZZO FOR GETTY IMAGES

While ramps are now a mountain delicacy to chefs across the country, I vividly recall my mother cursing their existence from memories of her childhood in West Virginia. Ramps are known for their pungent
PICKLED RAMPS 1 tablespoon black peppercorns 1 teaspoon mustard seed teaspoon caraway seed teaspoon fennel seed teaspoon cumin seed 2 pounds ramps, cleaned, green leaves cut to 1 inch above red stem 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 cup white wine vinegar 1 cup sugar 2 bay leaves 1. Bring a medium pot of heavily salted water to a boil. 2. In a saut pan, toast peppercorns, mustard seed, caraway seed, fennel seed, and cumin seed. 3. Add ramps to the boiling water and cook for 30 secondsso they are still crisp but tenderized. Using a slotted spoon, transfer ramps to an ice bath to cool. 4. Drain and place ramps into a sterilized quart glass jar with lid. 5. In a small pot, bring the remaining ingredients and toasted spices to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar, about 2 minutes. 6. Immediately pour mixture over ramps and seal the jar. 7. Allow ramps to cool to room temperature and refrigerate until needed. Yield: 1 quart GNOCCHI WITH ROASTED OYSTER MUSHROOMS, RAMP PESTO, AND HARISSA* For Gnocchi 1 package gnocchi 1 cup olive oil, divided 1 pint oyster mushrooms, roasted 2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated 2 tablespoons basil, sliced thinly Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Ramp pesto (see recipe below) Harissa (see recipe below) Herbs for garnish

smell. This characteristic of the ramps repelled my mother, but chefsincluding mecant wait for springtime to smoke, pickle, grill, and saut these wild foraged plants. Fortunately for me, in Asheville we

have access to some of the regions finest specimens. Chef William Dissen of The Market Place in Asheville, North Carolina

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. 2. Working in 2 batches, add gnocchi to salt water and cook until gnocchi rises to surface. Allow gnocchi to float for 20 seconds, remove immediately with a slotted spoon, and transfer to a sheet pan lined with paper towels to cool and drain. 3. Coat gnocchi with cup olive oil. 4. Place a large saut pan over medium-high heat and add the remaining cup olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, place the gnocchi in the pan (making sure not to overcrowd). Cook until golden. 5. Turn heat to medium and pour olive oil from the pan. Add roasted oyster mushrooms and cook for another minute. 6. Add butter to pan and allow to foam, tossing the gnocchi and mushrooms to fully coat. Add Parmesan and basil, tossing to incorporate. Season with salt and black pepper and remove from heat. Yield: 4 *Chef Dissen always makes his gnocchi from scratch and smokes it with a smoke gun for this recipe. We have simplified by using store-bought gnocchi and eliminating the smoking step to make the recipe easier for home cooks.

PHOTOS BY MATT ROSE

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1 cups extra virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1. Combine ramp leaves, pecans, basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a food processor. Pulse to combine. 2. While processor is running, add extra virgin olive oil slowly to reach a coarse consistency. 3. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Yield: 1 pint For Harissa 8 ounces mixed dried chilies 2 quarts boiling water 2 tablespoons cumin seed 2 tablespoons coriander seed cup garlic cloves cup cilantro, chopped cup mint, chopped Zest and juice of 2 oranges 2 tablespoons kosher salt cup smoked paprika cup extra virgin olive oil Additional water, as needed 1. Place dried chilies in a large bowl or container and cover with boiling water. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for an hour to rehydrate. 2. In a saut pan, toast cumin and coriander seeds. Set aside. 3. Drain peppers and remove stems and seeds (leaving a few seeds is fine). Place peppers in a food processor and process until chunky. 4. Add cumin and coriander to processor with remaining ingredients. Process to a smooth paste. Use additional water, if necessary, to create a smooth consistency. 5. Run paste through a fine-mesh sieve to create a smoother texture. 6. For storage, cover surface of Harissa with extra virgin olive oil and refrigerate until needed. Yield: 1 quarts

For Ramp Pesto 12 ramp leaves (save bulbs for pickled ramp recipe) cup pecans, toasted cup basil leaves cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated Zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon lemon juice

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