Dino the Dinosaur!

Dino the Dinosaur

Dino is a friendly little dinosaur, whose construction is a bit tricky for beginners but a fun challenge for the more advanced toy makers among us. I’ll post tutorial pictures soon, when I work on his girlfriend! *Errata: I misstyped some stuff when I wrote this up! For the sides of the head, I skipped row 5 and made wrote row 6 instead. But, just the numbers are wrong. Phew! I changed this in the pattern, and that's why stuff is red and bold. Sorry for the trouble, and thanks to laurena-lynn on ravelry for catching my blunder. Needles: Size 5 Double Pointed Yarn: Berocco Comfort, 1/3 skein (possibly less) Notions: Yarn needle, and embellishing supplies. Techniques used: Knitting in the round, Provisional joining, seaming, grafting, shaping by making stitches, Kfb’ing, and SSKs and k2togs. Abbreviations: All of the abbreviations are standard, if you don’t know what one means… you probably aren’t ready to do this project, haha. But seriously, I really don’t want to get an e-mail asking “What’s K8 mean????” … that’s a sign that you might want to start on a different project, love. Of course, if you DO have a technical question, you can e-mail me or message me on ravelry.

w&t Row 5: Slip 1. PM for row.HEAD CROWN: Make a slip knot.) Pick up 6 sts from between markers (if you didn’t put markers on both sides. place these on a holder or just leave them on the dpn and continue working with a new one. w&t Row 3: K5 Row 4: P5. k2tog. Work in stst for 5 rows. k side facing up. NECK (Part 1): Ssk. You should have 5 stitches. Work in stst for 10 rows. K5. Now the short rows begin! Row 1: Slip 1. Turn. w&t Row 7: K4 . you should be about to start a knit row. Turn an P across. then Kfb. K3. Work 4 rows stst. K5 Row 2: P5. SSk. P2 Row 1: K1 m1 K1 Row 2: P Row 3: K1 m1 K1 m1 K1 Row 4: P (5 stitches) Row 5: K1 m1 K3 m1 K1 Row 6: P (7 stitches) Row 7: K Row 8: P Row 9: K1 m1 K5 m1 K1 Row 10: P (9 stitches) Work 17 rows stst. Turn. SIDES OF THE HEAD RIGHT (with finished work at the bottom. PM for row. You should be about to start a knit row. k2tog. just move your markers to the other end of the row after you pick up sts. K4 Row 6: P4. Work 11 rows stst.

Now. Round 1: SSK. Turn and purl across the row. w&t Row 5: Slip 1. BODY: The shaping accounts for a flat area in the tummy and makes the tail curve  Round 1: *K1 m1 K1 m1 K1* Repeat * to * until end of round. working until you’re at the middle of the crown stitches again. Repeat * to * until end of round. Save these stitches on another holder or leave them on the dpn and start your next part with another. PM. picking up the wraps and knitting them with their respective stitches. w&t Row 13: Slip 1. w&t Row 3: P5 Row 4: K5. w&t Row 11: K3 Row 12: P3. P4 Row 6: K4. Now the short rows begin! Row 1: Slip 1. w&t Row 9: Slip 1. w&t Row 7: P4 Row 8: K4. K to last 2 sts. if stuffed right should have a slight curve. Round 5. NECK (Part 3): Work in stst for 9 rounds. 3: K Round 4: *K1 m1 K5 m1 K1*. k2tog Round 2. P2 NECK (Part 2): The flat knitting is almost over. w&t Row 11: P3 Row 12: K3. P5 Row 2: K5. P3 Row 10: K3. take these stitches and join them with the stitches from the crown (remember those?)by knitting across the crown stitches. Work in stst for 10 rows. Then K around. K7. You should have 12 stitches.Row 8: P4. purling the wraps together with the stitches. since this is going to be the beginning of your round. K3 Row 10: P3. Knit 10 rounds. Repeat * to * until end of round. 3: K Round 4: K8 k2tog K7 SSK k8 Round 5: K Round 6: K7 k2tog K7 SSK K7 . w&t Row 13: Slip 1. LEFT (with your finished work on the bottom): I’m going to save some people trouble here and tell you that it’s the same as the right side. you should be about to start a purl row. Turn and knit across.6: K Round 7: *K1 m1 K7 m1 K1* K7. purlwise. TAIL: This is basically an asymmetrical decrease that. w&t Row 9: Slip 1. and you’re ready to start. K2. I promise! Take your two needles that have the stitches from the side of the head and join the two sides. just with knit and purl reversed. Don’t worry! I’m still going to write it out! Pick up 6 sts from between markers. Round 2.

) Cast on one stitch. Hand: (At this point. Round 4: [k2tog] around. or if you want to stuff the arms gently. then pull tight and weave in. Row 1: P Row 2: [Kfb] all stitches. Do it all again for your second arm. then your ready for your decrease. There’s a difference between the two because I think one side of the flat circle looks better than the other (the decrease side. feel free to argue this. You should have six stitches again. if you want to insert armature wire or pipe cleaners for pose-able arms. K1P1K1 into the same stitch.Round 7: K Round 8: K6 k2tog K7 SSK K6 Round 9: K Round 10: K5 k2tog SSK K3 k2tog SSK K5 Round 11: K Round 12: K4 k2tog K5 SSK K4 Round 13: K Round 14: K3 k2tog SSK K1 k2tog SSK K3 K 5 rounds. Pick up six sts. Join. K 3 rounds. Cut the yarn and weave it through the remaining live stitches. . K around. Divide between 3 needles (2-2-2) Join. Stuff the hand area. Cut yarn and thread through live sts. 3 on top and 3 on bottom. Decreases: K 8 in scrap yarn. Instructions are the same for both arms. or wherever you want. Round 1: K Round 2: [k2tog] around. now is the best time. Last round (whether you make hands or not): [k2tog] around. then slip these sts back onto the left needle and K over them. Round 24: [k2tog] 3 times K 2 rounds. K for 10 rounds. After the join: Round 1: [K1 m1] around Round 2: K Repeat this once. Pick up the arm stitches here. You’ve finished the body! ARMS On Dino’s chest you should see an area where there are 3 increases in a straight line. Finish the round.) Round 1: [K1 m1] around. pulling tight and sewing in the end. Repeat these two rounds 2 times. LEGS The legs are knit separately and then sewn onto the body. Row 3: P Row 4: [Kfb] all stitches. Round 19: K2 k2tog K3 SSK K2 K 5 rounds. then cut yarn and pull through the live stitches.

Sew both legs to the body. which can be buttons or toy eyes (or embroidered if you’re dealing with wee ones. This pattern is copyright 2010 Alyssa Lynough. Add on any other extras (eye patches. plus two on either side of the new stitches. n . 3. so the foot is facing the other direction. Put Dino somewhere where passersby can compliment your good work! A bit of PR: All I ask of you. clothes. and please send me a picture if you make one! I can be reached on ravelry as Alyoops or via email at lynough@gmail. if you should choose to use one of my patterns. BOTH FEET: K 5 rounds. Sew up the four seams at the head: two on the top and two at the jaw. FOR THE SECOND FOOT: Cast on your stitches at the end of the first needle. Before your finish sewing.FOOT: Unravel the scrap yarn and pick up the resulting live stitches. forum. scarves. 2. appliqué…) since Dino loves dressing up. 5.com. then graft the live stitches together. Stuff the entire leg before you finish grafting! FINISHING 1. Add eyes. wherever you think looks best. anything). Please do not republish or market without permission from the author. stuff the head and body. and join. as well as the stitches at the top of the foot. K these.) 4. then at the end of the round cast on 16 stitches. instead of the second. is that you please tell me after you post it up somewhere (blog.

Sign up to vote on this title
UsefulNot useful