2013-03-31 03:20:56 UTC

5157ac540c010 98.191.188.114 United States

.

.

VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. .

.

VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT: WITH SKETCHES OF THE SAID.' Ac IN TWO VOLUMES.' Adventures in 'Views Oasis of 8iwah. vol. n. AND FIELDS.' in a Levantine in the Family. AUTHOR OV JOHN. BOSTON: TICKNOR. BY BAYLE J3T. . 'Two 4 Years1 the Libyan Residence Desert. REED.

TORRT. MUfTIIS. feJttJ3- THUBSTOK. .J)fr3M*"*'3 I SSL. AHD KMKHSOV.

"Official " Boundary Heat" The Ruined Dike" Scene a Summit 11-20 Great Old Man's Legend of Black Robber CHAPTER of ID. against Jack-of-all-Work Evil Eye" " Reis Suleiman" his Etiquette knowledge Charm " the of The Rationale and Steersman*. Cemetery" Nile of the a Visit Phil" " " Start " Cross " the The View from " Berber! the Village " " Nubian Afloat " Black-mail Difficult of the Civil Beggars above Cataracts Cursory Navigation" Island " First View Egypt Temples" " Examination the Morning of Propylon Mosque Sound " of from Cataracts its . II CHAPTER Thebes " I. of the " Mustering the the " Crew Akabah Down-voyage Storms View of on Nile " Start Night Koubanieh the Koom Ombos" } its the Ruins Value" by " Lights on Plain" The Silk-tree Medicinal Amaso"g of GebelMolair 21-38 . Mountains at " Leave " Beating of for Hares " " of Coal" The Ababde " Ombos Old Island Ghanakh Seven and Arrive Essouan" Picturesque Scene Environs " Cemetery" " The The Town and People Seventy " Syenite " Granite Common " of Essouan " Elephantine Borying-plaoe View The of the River" from Secluded the Village " of Mahatta" Berber! " Children " " Cataracts Shore Splendid Scene Kor ore Cunning Hy"nas 1-10 CHAPTER to II. adapted Race of to People unlucky Essouan" Practical " Welees Preacher of our " " Tradition Peculiar " Circumstances " " An People of the " Ancient " Egyptian our Language Origin " Crew Characters Nile peculiar " Men Goomma.CONTENTS OP VOL.

CHAPTER IV. Fm*or" The Cry of "] 43-48 Christian Countries CHAPTER WOd An VL Andes* The " -Medamot" Pigeons " Brick Bousaks" Tocal Ancient ""_ " *" "w- * " Quarter" after the Arnaout of Party" Egyptian Yenus A Maimer Practice the Turks Statuci" Pay-Latin " scolded" of Puffing "Battle " of Writing op Menumenti Hew -Tat Mode The Scenes Torabe " of the of the Kings" Egyptians Ancient " Pl"tfings" Progress in Conventionalisms modern Art Thnes" 49-58 A Tkw CHAPTER in Upper " Vn. CHAPTER V. deserted in English Signification Dangerous Mania" Call 59-68 on "Singular Effect . "Necropolis the in in ^ Upper Country". Method Alarm Conscription IsaptowementB The " Egypt Meddling " Regular Foreigners" of raising created " an Army" the the Modern Country " in from People A fly to the An Hills " Places of Refuge " Scene Great Peak False Becrotts Alarm" " Underground Palace " Dance of Grief" of Exploit Embarkation of Melancholy Spectacle the of Arms Procession Town" Egypt " Mourners" of some We are uajostiy TrareUers" Cursed" Keneh.

VU CHAPTER Coptos " VIH. 79 -87 CHAPTER Stout . its Governor " " X. Haou of Ancient Fellahs" " " Dendera Plain " " " Excursion " " Bellianeh the Land " " " A Palace Pleasant of to RideMemnon the " Fertile Girgeh Slingers " Produce of fugitive " Ekhmim " Traces with City Excursion White mense Im" Monastery Line Parley of Hostile Monastery Hints " Demonstrations" " Grottoes Wild " Athribis " The Oar Reception Meet Ignorant American Priests" Ducks Traits our Sport" Character He to Gourmands" " an on Traveller " of Tea-Party Ahead" not . of the of " of Sheikh Hereedi " Episode Ascent Conscription " " The Rock of Hereedi "Huge " Coptic Convent Curious " " the Mountain in Expanding of " View Tombs and for Quarry" them " Fascination of Proceed Genesis search the Reach Sloughs Serpents " " of Saints Living Remedy Dead Sanctity " Sacred Idiots Worldly Wants of Sheikhs" a Sterility A Novel of the Species Fellahs Effect at " of Hunting" Catching wild " Saint" Righteous Mocking Men Disposition dicancy " " Living of Death " Holiness " suspected Beneficial performed " Sheikhs' " Tombs" Fellah " Decorator " Rites Tombs Alms-giving Village Sacrifice of Raeineh Rag-offerings . Desert-tombs Sheikh Abderrahman" ... Respect Souhad of Strength " Ismain " Pasha" Moyeh among Approach uncivilised from Races River Site of Stout A at true The j Beautiful the " " Eastern City Bazar" of " Government Visit Baths " Offices Bath Barber the " " Dismal Streets of Children Egyptian Play" " The Rarity the The to " Magnates j his Stout " Bathers An " " Information " and its " News" Mouth odd Old Gentleman " Visit Allah Great Cave " View from Wolf-mummies " Tom Master Wish to Donkey-boys Backsheesh Cemetery " of Siout" Pleasing Scene The the Eye " Trees " The Two Lovers Avocations Gabaneh" " Ghebel-el-Koflra" for Hyaenas" Grave-diggers " .CONTENTS. He of feeds Pigeons News of from Kitchen" " goes Canal SouhadJ Alluvial -Rationale Chronology" the Inundation The Nile does Overflow" Bold Theory " Habits of the Nile 69-78 CHAPTER The Serpent " IX. their various " Traps " Vultures Bedawins A " Mysterious Bone Caravan Caravan Prison Encampment " Darfuris the the Policy A of of "Tents Darfur Government" in Line with of Route Dongola" of Trade The " Convict's Ketch " Experiences Punishment " Fasoglu" Permanent Tansimat" Arrests not GallowsTorture of Servants as " Egyptian a means Jack of of Death" The extorting " Truth Instances" Wholesale Soktier-polioe to Imitation of France" Whoever found Innocent supposed be Guilty 88-181 b " ..

CHAPTER Tistt to XL Recruiters agate " the oa Caves the of Face Dronka of " Coptic " Cemetery" Ancient Contents the " Bock" Tast (fenny " A Wolf" Benailafe" " CradMd Bey" at Chapel to " Giant " Bee-hires Unninsfeed " Excavation Emme Ride Manfcloot reading " Mankabat Kecrawana " Indolent Modifications of Sportsman of " Market-day " Tel-el. Ma " Egypt" Prognostication Bahr " Bela Importance " of the Inundation " " Meant Failures" " The Drop of " Curious Superstitions History of a " Partial Inundation Famines " Intercession " Heaven" " Bad Terrible Effects Famine " Pestilence " Cannibalism of of Eating dren" Chil" Strange Gourmands " Punishment Adventure Desolation a Physician A Lady Cannibal Immense Disasters Mortality in " the Villages " Antgration" Repeated 133-142 .Amarna Hieroglyphics of " Ix"cal Reason Religion Difficulty of pieaumcd " Failure" to a French Flippancy Hatty Faflnre PhOoiogisU" Reasons Sheikh Jumping Dead Oonetatlon" vanta " " Criticism" " Totnb of " Sesd " " Saint** Ser- Sheikh Abadeh " Ancient Coins " Drainage of Payment Soldier of " An " exiled Courtier System" Tillage of Rands. Feeling of the " of the Nile" The River-God" " of the " Fellahs" " Sub-fluvial Canals " " Watery the of Kingdoms Use " Course the Wind Nile Inundation of Nile" the " of Equivocal Birds Aspect " Generation Optical of Fish " " Vagaries "The River Mountain Traditions deserted of the " Illusions " Trees Lebek " Christian and " Egypt No Demons scattered " Houses of Fields Roads at at " Night " Wandering " Uses of Superstition " River Thievery Night Night Habits Sounds Strong " Light of the Stars on Clouds Nile " " in Egypt " of Sailors of Number Boats the Various " Forms Grain-boats " Siout " Steamers Variations ahead of the " System Nile " Boat travelling again A "The How timely Two will Protest" "The in GoDepth The lor Railway a " Lines ? " " Political Lucubrations* " No Demand Railway" Regulations it pay Rates laid of Freight The of the Project supplying condetnnable that make have been down new " Mode under Rations " Do Railways Traffic ? " Nothing Sun" The Barrage of Karakoush 118- 182 CHAPTER Threat against of Xlfl. " Forced " Labor Mode Truck " Ashmounein to Watchman Fellahs " Discharged timid " Punctuality on a A version Vain Effect Art of Military " Life" Brutality Mode carrying is Quarrel" Magical Threats Reason of why the Life " Army " disliked of " " Pay" riewing French Dislike " Military Tombs Beni Hassan" of Antiquities Glass-blowers " Catacombs to Impertinence " ists"Arab of Tour" Scrawls of Travelling in Evening Approach Minieh Moonlight Object 102-117 Egypt CHAPTER Associations Affiurs Mod " XH.tlfi CONTENTS.

and interesting " Cupidity Museum " Accidental of Success the " Dr. IX CHAPTER of " XIV. Incitements up Treasure-seeking of Impostors Magic " A " Receipt Treasure Antiquarian for drying with the Water " Artifices on Rakiz Dead " Tax Treasure-seekers" Fellah Mischances Treasure-Trove 203-218 . from Fiction" of the Town Illustrations Story-tellers Hak Fellah The Manners Tantawi " Story-tellers King " " Fellah of Anecdote Horned Story Hak 143-159 CHAPTER delight of XV. " Abbott's Ring of his Moderation Fellahs Greediness " Citizens " Treasure-seeker's " Guide Wealth to " " Magicians Charms " Clairvoyance Talbehs wonderful Burying Belief " Ibn their Khaldoun Tricks " Buried of ancient Nations " Berber " . " noran Ig. " 192 -202 CHAPTER of ruined " XVffl. of the Eastern Story Green Bird and the Two tinies Des- 182-191 CHAPTER of the XVn. " Destruction whom Egyptian " Monuments of The small Pyramids Demolition of of Ghizeh the " By Arches Modern " Ghizeh " Attempted " Pyramid by their Kings of Mycerinus " Proposition Care of " ancient Monuments Use of Antiquities Popular " Opinions Treasure-seekers." CONTENTS. and the Two 8eqttel Story of the Green Bird Destinies . Jewel" Drunken Orientals Anecdote in Filth the " A " Hidden The Story Arnaout of " the Early Betrothed" Burdum " Braggart Shurdum Cause of Gallic Revolutions 160-181 CHAPTER Opinions of Women " XVI.

.

opposite At the both these we places spent we a our stay latter pleasant several. river course. and be that taken in this. desert came. more we due to was Esneh short in . The the neighborhood because called Mountains have of found Coal. in the of halfe. partly by a and rank are partly crop now overgrown dense mountains thickets. An Ababde 1 village is seen in the dis- . hugging in still proceeding the southward.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. CHAPTER I. no discovery as in reality. eave Ombos Thebes " "Beating Island " for Hares " " Mountains at " of " Coal " The Ababde " of Ghanakh Arrive Essouan Picturesque Scene Environs " Old Cemetery " The Town " Seven and and People Seventy " Syenite " Granite Common " of Essouan "Vie* the Elephantine of Burying-plaoe of the from River the Secluded " Tillage Mahatta " " Berberi " Children " The Cataracts Shore Splendid Scene Korore Cunning Hyaenas. From Thebes. II. I believe. and but Edfou. has. been however. made will must . closely on the either rocky hand. almost morning There entirely beating an for hares. by is immense of ground uncultivated. cases. that some mineral was said in such to been in them by man Frenchthat the Pasha's service. in other similar the for the VOL deed. space of which got here.

at proceeded length reached from the Akabah term and of town our Essouan. of respect for plates away and again dishes. for the just below frontiers until propylon a Ombos of the for dinner. breeze beneath still increasing. a passed. became soon quite The the of Ombos of disappeared reaches. whilst others has them Redesieh. wind. out shores and river. numerous green with groves and huge bowlders . and moored the Bedawin establishment at of quarries rate El-Hammam. and through ter Afnext cursory we glance went at a the temples the a morning. bought of a Coptic the mistress French dark. house at The Luxor. in off gradually. The island and of approach to this is picturesque. like a of as the it was The waves bright and lights of foam. principal from a Sheikh lady. up into wilder with a looking light voyage ravines.2 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. long palm-groves. on are the the at a borders of the desert. towering rear. the to The assume of and river break now begin to varied We at forms. range with of our precipitous out hills the west. shall were. on sunset were beating. at and I long remember it. rock. and succession lovely and of with slips of sylvan us on scenery to in their usual the frame-work Ghanakh. tance. " Then breeze Ethiopia waters the falling calm. starts. lured where island of its swardy vision. and halted. horizon. rocks more stopped either side Akabah. regular on the on. a A little after that good Haggar wind had taken we us among the shoals near a Silsilis . Elephantine. the Some say that here place lately head-quarters of tribe. The meadows. precede traveller. a in scene the western It of We on exquisite beauty. and sea spanking defile .

tablets. by and the round found island which dances in reach. eddies. form towering a above of Arab Essouan very marked feature in the landscape. being concealed it. to from the summit opposite a hill descendi precipitously the and the waH of Nilometer. as merchandise below our just brought station like a the ruin Cataracts. the river. break huge are up the river hills. old juttingout a but having stones served were evidently bath. of we Elephantine had chosen the Soon dozen afterwards other berth and half a pean Eurofor " dahabiahs. some considered shore was ourselves covered " settled boats time. and east there. under repair in construction down an with and with little times. The or with sheds. and hieroglyphics mixed and a here and in there relief. east near ourselves in a lake-like and a embraced bank. Our far out first walk into the was to the old cemetery. but these have been fragments of another building.VILLAGE LIFE IN EOYPTr S covered into narrow with hieroglyphieal channels. the ruins by palm old -gardens whilst. the west. then The an way lies through of ruined small brick grove. figures On reaching of summit we had curious of view the valley with its thousands grave- . On seem some of to the hieroglyphics-. over with rocks bearing the tombs. houses. We passed the water between two of giddy the bowlders. itself is not . of classical A stood mole. that of stretches' a desert. with On here the sandy crowned becoming ruined precipitous convents. of rocks. through the expanse covering slope of the hill. But the terminating modern city in jagged range visible. On a there is a fertile plain.

prowl At night. fro. and the road to the Cataracts at and bottom to Phil" runs through the whole lower portion. is little a nothing either way mile . the and phantoms and Egyptian voice. TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. monuments thousands of by a graves. in is. with about eighteen writing. here cemetery. respect spoken course. old and the two mosques. neatly whitewashed.hyaenas. Its extent although is great. to behold. said or be good about. hop lava-like crumbling rise up. still wilder large but appearan the to By eating. the of the some valley. consisting of square of elegant chambers forms are cupolas .4. or. The expanse is dotted with : with tombs. of rock. huge give numerous a with and there and day. but woman. black one its shattered On the crest domes. and but between these more ambitious headstones and covered rocks. and jackals. the other spick with and a span halo new. of sights or Upper to Egypt describe. I vultures hawks. passes in silent haste speaks under his . ' and surrounded of out " sunshine As Seven far and as I could make " (itis called is The Seventy') this building saints dedicated to a to the seventy-seven thousand and We. desecrated. was supposed of in be tone buried of awe in the and a " cemetery. pointed granite hieroglythat phical tablets the bowlders show themselves This perhaps. scene. others vaulted. to or wolves. stones inscribed and hill huge were with masses Cufic of characters. one and with the most the ruined interesting there above town attached. long foot broad. of did be not approach it . who professed mosque. with to inches Here age. on to its guardian. out some guided us over the old and huge there. and sanctity. black saw no crows.

nothing.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. which there famous say quarry of granite. near of Blacksmiths. sings loudly. to keep his At the about been said the a some distance is the to the east of the cemetery. charac- In rows. ters. consists almost only Essouan. to With the the exception scattered the plantations east. go over shaded smoke acacias. shining semicircle of the Nile. or water-ponds. and all the mud walls. the by was used and to and a pipes of ever so watch. visible. This was below to Elephantine. near the fertile to Quarter land north. as flats below. about. and there scratched the variety the the hieroglyphical rises man. wild in where the All of of beasts. I have I . dotted our sails. with of a few but gardens containing by with the little surrounded palm-trees. broken into and are gulleys. the as beginning well ripen. where. seen. irrigation-wheels of some to drink. in is grey nice we But on the by our river-bank some there is a strip of sward. are They foliage intersected them dusty dust. 5 going courage to the up. frequently of of although the footsteps the are of I did Here not notice slightest trace a vegetation. except be little that is to said has been thousand The are rocks which and sweep round plain up of Essouan ravines hares black dismal-looking. at showing to courses they take going the down night the are seyals. other extreme. placed. except lanes. for shall the times. view uninterrupted the . silk-tree in regular and the the if planted winds was by hand of colocynth sand. Syenite that out in desert. towards where evening. broad expanse almost sand. are plant its snake-like forms to as over The the fruit tracks just hares.

noses. but to by little walks there inform to an bordered a fences and the a south. and covered At with its northern extremity fields.6 TILLAGE LI?S IN EGYPT. spring. long. however. of course. and other that the inscriptions record kings distinguished may well personages be interesting of Egypt. and Egyptians. of There Essouan is a itself is extensive. abound. there steep path which of bowlders. region. ordinary aquiline The are different in aspect from fair. shot through one dressed of the in their openings. and cast a from the clefts of shade. with provided are merchandise. "huge trees mass old bath. to decay supposed with their that forefathers. shore. and respectable Many of houses. Essouan. the way tolerably On from near the the centre of business is a to the mooringround some a . This. at two three we feet were high. Libyan slopes. cleaves waters of the Nile immediately it is low. these with we few ruins. the very but ill thinly inhabited. population large looking. which island called the Gates the The of Elephantine opposite even. the to neighborhood. The corpses of the Elephantinites. of and and in this river. ordinary and sent clothes. visits of this or both the banks in the guessed. stones indeed. with was several the common openings side. which ruined rose in rocky swells stood on or a sandy bold A large monastery "pur The exactly town oppoeite. the burying-place dead are of island. sides of the are covered the rocks hieroglyphics. groves by and reed- intersected . It is not. to be there is any- . As among or came oblong building. is great swell we of rocks wandered some one rubbish.ground. It is read. shabby sookh. rocks most on are pleasant with The as. thin faces. told.

pure our a withdrew of nature. except occasional except on a boat stealing convent along in the " single of a habitation. between barren. of infinite number articles to of leathern were thongs. nances. scene. race. customs other at unnatural and wonder of the depravity are of of their the neighbors. vary the Circumstances. extend so The Cataracts the waters do properly seem speaking. and far .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. delightfully under a expressive They robe. fringed banks " with vegetation almost precipitous of is obtained from the not. and of these there interesting would offered for be a -appear travellers. but the natural feelings their by unchanged. great from valley ruined depths our the western shore. nations. 7 thing irreverent meant in this way of disposing of the departed. an the short ordinary fellah composed blue what may be called petticoat. Several sale. remained sign not a long this wild where of life. tribes we The them Greeks to burned dead. We not a and foam gazing an against at obstruction. . among various superstitions. southern point Elephantine. others broken up by rocks and " islands. but I have think doubt customs practisers and of all such barbarous. wild certain beasts . but and ripple still hurried every agitated. exposed manure be . counte- Some of the girls wear. great demand for them among A wide some view of the river. form of burial remain institutions. The black people and tine Elephan- Berberi had well-featured. thoughts dealing with the forms In we one of rides about the neighborhood that interested us of Essouan fell upon quiet place exceedingly. no devoured the ancient that make of them Egyptians the pickled them.

and of the on meditate the singular an A the little fragment main. then by were a with two nice cottages palms. hue. We entering to rugged some defile. scorching the sunshine. of the and ing springwith Yet sea tranquil village here and mountain their The few that waved at tufts of intervals. in the pressed either pensile along and A few streaming look at us. A of the of to a light glowed the halo everywhere. of the of the water. which as a it reflected. between island stony and surrounded all sides stretched by black. with wire. river. feet. called suddenly protected to our for the shore surprise. rocks. village. at trees our mountains. to rest unaddressed sunk sheer on the sat rocky down that to the river. in apparently a unbroken right. Nile. from and depths to sky like depths round number seemed of the of gather hills. lake. Mahatta. Here scene. street one or walls. little Berberi nook. came to offer carved with the ornamented and spears cased skin . Proceeding on through to the we valley turned of tombs across some distance range the way Phil". rocks to off the of dismal-looking grandeur that the extends and. to we but passed beach. gloomy prospect. expected find mirroring fell upon in a itself in the a pure waters. women.6 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. but far-up peaks swarthy Satanic A fine little children with sticks ingenuous features. ones to little we they on leading closer until to we their came sides. some wide dwarf from the there cleft in the alone on contrasted mighty was desolation nothing that reigned in the the all sides. became by neat on built a sheltered between The path road mud diminutive and shaded who paused were gardens. leaves a overhead. made granite-bound but. sant there. hand.

and gathered. and scene the were Cataracts. view turns wonderful the from to shore. like fiery the into a giant a caldron. reduced. or great and water-lizard. We had. scene It but the was when our we arrived. and south amphitheatre round with a of crater ebon hurled into heaps river which bed. volcano. rushing our We remained for some time listening to this mighty . the a but did to make that the attempt therefore. thrown and sparkled. their could unwillingness with ones goods speak unless for a fair price.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. they Only the Arabic. was lava the of stony a The round dotted thousand as islands. soon little above the village piles whole of Mahatta. a tumult of struggling shadows louder came louder to as light faded ears. The the path off from road We Phitee. by the and but badly. orb to cast sun glance neared out the horizon shape of the the with of a its lower balloon eastern and lengthened all sides north rocks. and an as while but it flowed sounds and were the tible impercep- of day hushed. of watch. its sloping hissed roared. waves. that were amidst shattered of the of rock form the characteristic near feature sunset neighborhood. over indeed. it rolled down and day. and of eddied. 9 of the warran. a reflexions in. wondered of animal too Our boat was large not enable us to ascend . to On the on western rose a and mighty like the bank. before just time red rim. showed great for sale. ever-increasing and roar. dying witch's : foamed. They to bargained part elder were boldly. the prodigious and The liquid current. " into the the " of fire. a All and much interested what kind not we ticking it to was. soon mingled with opaque sombre grim tide for .

10 TILLAGE LIFB IN EGYPT. that hyaenas blessed a than dust marked and eyes have of knack whom of they kicking have sand into the those to destruction. prey. which the mind on thrills at aspect wandered in religious silence. to to make few our first cursory examination left to us. beneath We by the a can convey a proper idea the of impressions of this scene. to pointed the in various terrible Babs to-do and seemed made exact. in the who moments of light as A his or black way Grates. landour we arrived. of for Korore. the and scape. in order blind and render them an . the entert us with strained stories of wild as beasts we and great sang with energy its thousand approached tombstones cemetery and in the saw white shining they palely moonlight are Among with more other things. turned off into road. human and for easy said cunning. and then of the descended details boy. night had quite thickened the us secluded without the village asking to went. take pride spot the which Nature however in nor that Neither measurements words however charged the with meaning. desert we make our our way by a smoother As donkey-drivers and ghouls. had offered himself out guide on his village. crescendo of the cataract. in a passed quiet unheeding cove little American boat moored when at above great over gate. a Here and back guide left reward.

Visit to Phil"" " 8 tart" Civil " Cross " the The Cemetery Nile above " Berber! the " Tillage " " Nubian Afloat " Black-mail Beggars Cataracts Cursory of from Difficult the Island Navigation " First Yiew of the a Temples " Examination the of Morning of View Egypt Man's " from Propylon Mosque Sound " Cataracts" its Official Boundary " Ruined Scene a Summit " Great Heat The Old Dike " Legend of Black Robber. so and upper the restore them thrown the their even. as the lower island to course waters. although the proceed with the island of Philae. 11 CHAPTER n. The Nubia. of to a character. walled with rock by hurrying the and ruins of it mountains. as already begin goading to our it were for the thousand leaps it is about take. to a therefore. We delayed visit some days. Biggeh huddling middle current encumbered of streams. It lies a is within mile as seems or limits of official Egypt of the so above the commencement Cataracts. had by were plan where of a our journey did not include from a visit to that we totally different have people presented similar hitherto beheld would itself. in order to become .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. complacent the into island. Elephantine to check lies the below. narrow by the divided and to into channels. and of the flow. with its companion seems. surrounded Berberi population. which. living We the side of monuments content.

found. houses. in Egypt.12 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. largest I have women. of Broken cellars. every walls. These of neat passed. heaps behold. bearing merchandise. series of our rugged Libyan that reminded somewhat we soon of came donkey-ride. leads cemetery. A man offered of but locket he had and chain. over Then a got among that lie principally south between most broad valley. fine cheerful of boats. village trees. intimately souan a acquainted at with having from the neighborhood a of started on Eson a . but length. ing stretchrock " north a and shattered to of granite camels avenue. of delicately-formed brats features. arms. along to of sloping by pushed gaily the the lane bordered ruined houses that chambers. ascended. we on as we we the prospect the widening tombs. high a The the road is level beyond and the easy for some distance when over a through the desert to were cemetery the got us . desolate by fragments arched us laid bare side as treasure-seekers. mounted pack excellent passed some somewhat the screen ill-favored of the trees on donkeys. morning but formed the party. which we . trotted up the surrounded slope. came holding smile little sable in their " and with sweet asked for backsheesh a kind of black-mail under a pleasant form. we from river. many quiet. or imposing donkeys. Strings of droves passed of us. but defile to leading Mahatta passed. and we pathway among the rocks Korore defiles. that the bounds top Having the the beneath view fifty yards bank. European asked too manufacture. pretty The to a us. seen to a gling strag- shaded by great It was sycamorea the scene. for sale a occasionally pretty golden which price.

and their ! with every in the appearance general as of real ferocity. through .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. us or dropped as behind. their sharing and ment. out paused boat. at In"hallah you selameh If chap. . were momen: man looked which a and in gazed sheets the broad Nile. plain on our after water. brayed donkeys. Children out that their ! ' could hands ' walk and please being twenty as a along * by sides. a from the village frowned and over the by was trees. instead trial of his temper. but were and rest the of opposite the shore. women. gloriously. and. the rose of the framework swells or glittering to meet in sky. . a but. barren rocky angles lay the the pure blue of Our course between " island Biggeh and the eastern shore up a narrow channel. with trained curses. terooh holding be !' crying God. * sturdy kept terooh boy-mendicant. Men bless were announcing shouting hearts the presence of a station. the kindly does wish " faintly murmuring Inshallah be selameh!' Issuing broad rocks. the pile of a Cyclopean crowd At further extremity busy and ferry- number of masts. spreading eddying low palms all perfect islands mores syca- of disappeared Near us amidst some stony right. and repeated we cry at least times when pushed unheeding. with innocent fury . and current. of the the they received whilst at our pig-like grunts. the burst it our of light from and rocky ravines in a to left. of pursuing beggar. a we came to a open space. exciteknelt kicks We for as camels. 13 were not ran so churlish as our to refuse. many disappointed in Europe. complained in they down on to receive shins a loads. it may go in peace One the ahead small first disappointed.

meeting rocks. and the towering a ruins of Philse amidst was into sight. everyto desolation the endeavor exert undivided " sway. carried a diagonally the starting-point where it left us into little creek about. or every great The now and then with ledges rolls of with outlaying impetuous at rounded light puff us bowlders. sparkling billows of of like palace of snow congealed a lava. temples. play. indenting island. green to reminded of a the ruins Druidical twinkling as Here leaves. on Presently either hand rocks appeared to sink to recede sprang . scrambling narrow man with couple of or active lads. creeping the along stream. slowly heaps to us. ledges. Ropes and over and a brought into however. that even and waved there few shrubs.14 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. black rugged us points. either bowlders. force. being rocks soon whirling stony in the danger of dashed against the banks or concealed poles were a that everywhere abound. Our The Vast first gem pillars impression was feeling incongruity. which the current. setting. the lips in at more ex- eye and compress rise tranquil districts. from high-placed of and crevices. if show the where principle death life lies concealed where. " too lively out for the amidst and its sombre living heaps rock of quarried of mountainous rubbish. they and expand the . side tugged rose against On with to one huge of rocks every were covered moment that and seemed crush rude threaten roll the down other of with Some and piled us on like pillars. such as but stern-looking the as cavernous colonnades. squatting with the stains dumb distend scars and wrinkles " age horrid colossi. our of wind that dropped from the first into sail. of and propycovered " laea.

obelisks. but at the frowning to a of a Biggeh of the wind length when came we point breath favored. but as vistas not of foliage. and to by shining stream silver in the sunshine far above belt of verdant we waving groves. to little terraces. we temple. beautiful to at distance. 15 tremity been which the of telescopic . shattered a masonry. walls.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. a first cursory inspection the of already the vast cluster of saw which the plan was in our heads. eastward. and of the the ever however. be a mere mockery. there long porticoes. ruin. amidst spacious the green with . of bright with that its great lofty diminutive embraces courts looked trees happy in ruin on. the an contrast. the as a wilderness by a of granite sword. would and here have pile. which convey seems proper idea of this of old to have structures. a if a reached. to By degrees. Here there. chapels. soon the steep of Philae. passages or the summits or of to towering the water's propylaea. bones. engaged of in ruins. heaps can down of edge. beheld one in hope that group goes temples emblem that before beckoning a amidst but. bristled and to throughout have been its entire extent with a holy surrounded with massive wall of solid masonry . of some found dust. with a perfect leading labyrinth to shrines and chambers. with beneath dry time rope and pole in sight pices preciwhere the of the still keeping . detailed singular description island. further surrounded colonnades of . receptacle struggled island. No altars. with were glided some along bend of river beneath lofty pillar* to like bowlders bank engraved We hieroglyphics. rubbish. We dreary desert of life. in keeping that white elegant is cloven totter appears. became reconciled of pale us.

to ducing have kind of beauty. of island. like sail. Time the and other agencies but have have been only at work to degrade in seems beautiful another aimed and scene. river. ' those the of were that sky.16 VILLAGE UFB IN EGYPT. the reached was the roof. of trees. The a river. golden struck the and presently .1 the children's of the Babylon. part Trees the shrubs northern everywhere. as the as passage it tumbled Nile the a " the solemn- roar into when land of Egypt. intently. though the thrill already light. beyond curve desert the but the summit bounded same great of a hills. the touch of first faint of A away dream-like could like high as silence heard. We and grasses the have sprung one passed night on in the to of of the the one or rather next landing-places. morning to to see roof roof temple of the . brooded through led for river to around. up the over Vegetation lacunes all the up at filling wave of architecture. the sky already wrapt the by of a beaming with light. rose beyond abrupt and the westward. they Dew seemed threads except way gate- still on of Nature. Looking centre eastward. succeeded pro. When we at once forms stood of on Biggeh. or All around series the appeared. chambers. the the rocky that far " be opened. to to greater less extent. the calm. belt. and prowe went up sun the of pylaea seemed the rise. grey whilst and valley that lay clasped in gloom. was island pale here and the there cold dotted breath scarcely lay to filled the with eyelids at dawn. of a be standing in the came number and then then of a concentric thin strip screen circles. river. First and the ruins. segment then that the a and of a of vegetation by a . beam We listening propylon.

we Suffice our it to most say. a learned the to rapidly look we it almost during situated south a Among was one excursions old made mosque our on an ruined some as spur of the Arabian the chain. as all hereabouts and women. slaves. and grove. surrounded were we had path rendezvpus to a A narrow led thence little village. seemed last traces sober came to awake night- from poetry. that during visits passed to time upon antly. far we could bly proba- judge. or at portion Shellalees. donkeys. pleasas and home. in as ornament. out if we intended line . their and day. in the fields. a on down. but to come in the to learned and topographical such two I have promised abstain from our discussions. through groves path now led 3 along the river . to nevertheless. distance as of Philae. boundary It marks between official well the traditional the as Nubia or and least Egypt. shake and river. compose No it to buzz come off the a of themselves of demeanor to for ear " prosy where roar stirring life from? " the but. built seemed. door The one houses tolerably neat. Cataract-men. A little ferry-boat where us the given steep to bank our of lupines. took we has to pressed shore. a The quiet and simple A working few blacks. During and studied our as stay in Phil" hard as we left no corner unvisited. the of with as of them noticed an English dinner-plate. the mur mur- of of the a Cataracts seemed army. 17 temple. the although known lower a Berberi population. were the an Chinese bridge-and-pagoda The people pattern. tower. stay. with reaped and dhourra over fields. and recede at like the retreating length utterly died away. race. was slumbers.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

volume unbroken of the the Nile. houses two hundred yards the wide. . about to noon On this somewhat day. and main. view could in by rocks . its way I have the Cataracts. Philae.18 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGTPT. smoked pipes patch of eternal shade. that this we journey. reach once more temple of we where. to for sacred but travellers of the an reputation which has new tranferred a apparently on. the roof of and the the sorry Philee. little about because. on a narrow strip rarely were of more land than beneath a the mountains and the Nile. land our the of mighty depends soon of water which To to Egypt was see for its existence. seldom being tolerably state was noticed our it. the soon the river. the said heat experienced well during seasoned. Little remains except the which and long with many since some desecrated minaret. broken. up climbed is in misgivings. however. and the The may winding one staircase these places of days prove treacherous " beneath none foot of some now incautious visit been this traveller mosque. reached tottering we threshold. The of temperature the bitter mostly some attracted of the not attention cold of we the sun mornings. covered at with the lupines. the between on islands of Biggeh. with bank or three rows of and slope sycamores then on in front. the Dismounting mosque foot of we which its ruined is situated. and villages. but the north pierces we the three ravines the to which the river trident-wise. spick-and-span were building our ther little fura We rewarded stream on for pains by glance whole over the broad. shut the south. The a sometimes built against rock in a line. our during in a the remainder of day. found were oppressive.

desert Crossing and rocks made that the we struck the into for advances from defile. mound. The Arabs call it the selves them- Old Man's to Dike possess the " Gisr el Agoos . but double. I will assert mythological it owed its construction. and to have levied during long of time forced on contributions. are pointed black is said as the terrible narratives A gigantic giants " all to a blacks made space by in Arab it his have repair. countries have in especially towards the decline of empires. through here the towards montory proriver. valley what whole venture length to of the to of the Nile. the olden and time. not of the Alps Ptolemies or Apennines. road. the places of tolerably a lofty. a in at some once parts. as and the talked. seem defence like the vain been Chinese to These to attempts common fortify ancient whole times. " that it was for the and others of home. watch-tower. various other interesting gentlemen of In returning a new a from Phil" to we followed. accompanied often murder. often the reduced condition long skirts of road. and place suggested. A ruined rock. of probably which at it is the various is to be continuatio the the points. was perched out " on the scene summit of a of a solitary story.VtLLAGE LIFS IN E6TM. of We were the soon removed from in traces some sight of all vegetation. and believe authentic learned purposes nearer traditions on one of its construction. and agree point. They erected wall. main. of Pharaohs. all . but not of past places to civilization. 19 cast by a propylon. traced but emperor principally nearly the not at entrance ravines. same Most wall. at A wall of crude bricks. but.

despair. feeling over. to party a stop it The other to black wild made beasts was desperate when . brought to robbers and will bay. leaped down the rock. passengers the whose numbers did not at overawe him. defence. . in his and refusing surrender. sent jealous out a this interference of soldiers to their prerogative. At with put a as length Government. that all to was killed or rather.20 TILLAGE LIPS IN EGYPT. and dashed himself pieces on the road.

the eye in power.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. are different neighborhood to ' in appearance and descended ancient both from from a peasantry of the ordinary colony seasons fellahs. lad told some hundred of thousand years ago. People lucky of Essouan Practical " " Welees" Preacher of " Tradition " adapted Race of to Circumstances " " An Egyptian on* Peculiar People of Ancient " Language Origin Work The of " our Crew Suleiman" " Characters Nile the " Men Qoomma. The people of Essouan. all kinds. merable innuthat However be. from the as I have said. Many " indeed. remarkable for bigotry cemetery and superstition. before say that the time the Mohammed of Egypt this Ali! have may a of them all saints commemorative it seems headstone that here. they regard not The as of of and their mere deserted ordinary men mortals. meet wifli characters. the that . holy of buried. against of the " our Jack-of-allEvil " Reis Etiquette " Charm Mustering the Crew Eye " Steersman the j his peculiar " Knowledge on Rationale Down-voyage Koom Storms View of the Ruins " Nile by " Start " Akabah Lights on and Koubanieh Plain " Ombos " " the Night the The Silk-tree Its Medicinal Value Amazons of Oebel Molair. ' They claim be planted and are there somewhat tombs those in times and past . every and direction. 21 CHAPTER ffl. of soldiers. every new now invested with an supernatural and to then old a tradition is in a form. covered certain Cufic are the tablets. but as belonging as a to Welees us.

took shot of holy was monuments.22 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. preacher who to not subject. of to say they produced but mixture not to the be contiguous case. records of of and making target the or inimitable squire ' piety or unexampled goodness rustic ? In the neighborhood is a of Essouan. that his such gun a burst. confirmation of the dead their belief. suffered. many It that a foolish at one traveller. certain has or punished by the them by at fracture of limb. races. cause. in endeavoring belief. for some tance disdistinct below. travellers. for firing at a or an infidel instant seems Frank. dare-devil Turk. this appear believe the and I should rather be prone that there . their The is to two way are accounting by does a for origin. be almost black. these his arm not seasons ago. obvious that claim of pure Egyptians. death. or The individual. show accidentally otherwise. speak most confounded are many but They and very to dark. and equally with distinct them from by the Berberis. Arabic. be After rather it . race and people. curious of very from the ordinary although fellahs. who What should of a would take be fate of a gentleman. it would to renounce difficult to persuade as one Essouanees and the and respect of for the places where they lie is the to on greatest be guarantees by of success civilization. been least some a drunken Arnaout. it into his head to into the churchyard commence some English of the country-town. I see nothing gained the the of any sceptical therefore. the Arabs himself content the as absurdity a of in was a their must consider be martyr good not and may well that he subsequently the mobbed foreign walk and cudgelled. and that broken.

they not using dialect. come so except close land green mountains a down the a shore. features said. their conspicuous as an nostrils. are when they some jabber Soudan among themselves. All united by these people ties fine fellows. and bette in of that language. I greatly object but to founding not a theory on one or two isolated some facts. large contin* seems of to Nile The country to to with one " all the namely. full. All so I have that Arabic but in a tone squeaking. Diodorus of our crew Siculus came meaning from the a fruit. the furnishes fleet. from were the six. the however. traces may the Berberi language ? contain of ancient name Egyptian of a Ombo. it requires attention that to discover. being ap- . favorable The population. local well the of relationship the and patriotism. fruit. lips are Their hair has nose a strong flattish. type nearly speak. kind of vegetation running in between are the black and granite cliffs. that only here narrow strip a of of is left. to conditions space. men indeed. who the great part or journey by from labors tracking rowing. with creek little nook and there. The from second. gent abound which. many a individuals black some have mask. 23 up Negro blood to in their their veins. absolute for is very Egyptian as fluctuating. one the latter word reminds as of ' the word bates. and the of men. portrait and under . tendency with very crisp. I of do the not race give . face I shall or always remember cheerful during of a of Goomma. given Most The by is the date-tree.' neighborhood very of Essouan. honest principal first of three villages which our came Koubanieh five or Akabah. of the Friday.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. this. escaped a slim lad.

when our He had very ideas Nile etiquette. perhaps. a and steadily servant. spend reis. the and clipper some would positively ler's travelto commit unpoliteness of sail. and by intelligent his steady be mariner in I hope desire fulfilled. to disgust are Master Friday called . the influenced by fear . he to said. with but work him which sailors often I overheard once talking of to Sid Ahmed. beauty. the the crew the custom for one of that to be office. under boat. thus I expected several hard comparatively would life led during the months. pointed by Sid Ahmed " to the office of scullion. Whilst we our a fast-sailing quiet. for when position channel of certain sand-banks us. selected easy cook. of the evil or He eye was partly. Suleiman. underIt is for this washerwoman maid-of-all-work. and some interest not a to his talk. like gazelle past a lame camel. keep to the over other the side lest might seem exult defeated.' Egypt. to a compelled by one unless we chose to take dart of the ordinary slow-coaches. was. Lower and were respectable. indeed. . All of a his ambition good boat. captain that and his he days coveted in honorable employment any The and may position is attainable the end. the narrowness of the in sail. passing endeavored we other to boat under of the full river.24 TILLAGE LIFB III EGYPT. bows of the He listen babbler . it was always strict moral truth. captain was Reis of the ' Zeyn-en-Neel. but a narrative told a man of to aphorisms illustrate on when he story. rejecting and thus to the idea his a becoming traveller's making become fortune. sail I used and no cautious often with " to go and and sit in the profit man. was from man.

walking index of the map he was of Egypt.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. had left Abu at I have to already some him Ombos had up been . be rarely would gained them occasionally. down Kutchuk) the to Tawalee of Tall). had born since in going obtained leave go and of kiss them the were their last visit . when to trust.and Zibeydeh of the Bomba-el-Gobtaniyeh of Thebes Dishne. in fact. seemed island. steersman. next The giant. voyage. boat has reached mainmast to the of its yards. and in what spring. said upon or Ayshe the of Eeramoon. and to start making on in due exactly time. equally and In another department and of knowledge to proficient professed every know the names cations qualifi- dancing-girl in of Egypt. would be lost . once a It is the term custom. his relations . mustamil. even unto Essouan. for most Those muster on a from the day us nearest spot received their our orders appearance to certain enabled the day . oars. Esneh . time Of We Samson. are the North that sails by winds are indeed of any so use prevalent . from or Kutchuk Hosneh-et- Hanem (Madam (Hosneh . was a if to I remember rightly. " palm-grove. every He know the and position village to sand-bank. spoken. from of in Akabah. or from Atfeh Noor. epithet of The wags was crew that tender Baba bestowed him in every along-shore village. and take in down the and current all the and the the descending. others dropped all belonging to at Akabah to the Koubanieh. a the country was. on return journey determined. and spend with and neighborhood babes married. 25 some of as a the crew invariably of or ran to stick a knife in the mast charm protection. in rank.

rope violent broken in an attempt to down. men generally very not towards sunset. frequently with Some idea may violence that that the blow masts formed from fact. most gales begin some blow but increasing falling away in strength for hours. provided uselessly they waste their wind. to pedlers a way to Kartoun. boats on a Ombos. channels. which to supported and we luggage fully he the rudder. morning. European their stopped came merchants. for for our Koom half galley. from narrow Essouan. on other to days the by the resistance offered of the be by the of bare the the poles storms wind. was made slow. out One from him man. impossible any track near for I have The fourteen seen a oarsmen make to way. with soon the exception by invaluable Samson. of the At the length manned. with an even and current yards of our displaced. energies against We the resistless north an started. for sale Alexandria was no profitable to considering a there freight pay. little behind on a the rest by accident. The work are cheerfully forced to until late at night. and passing breakers of the through line of to stretching from the point of Elephantine progress scarcely the the shore. shot a point his were triangular as reed swam raft. four and miles steady assistance it to was of a nearly hour. and were dashing green groves of Ghanakh. bearing in baskets " of a and bundles venture. dozen When oars Our were at first sufficient open river. . the with incomplete one crew. to we man we reached to on met or two belonging large scale. in the At rest Akabah of our and crew. Koubanieh we take Most huge of them down dates with their of families. noon. one then. mats.26 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

On a highest the point desert were of and the the wall. without. still green. get shot.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. The was not very evident the effect a wonderful each stone cast of those of huge squat was columns tons supporting roof. of halfe a beyond lad and in his hares. and of silken floss . Next day. buried walls. a looking rosy unripe apple the stage in beautiful the sun. plain we had either and some wide of view the on side river. or here near there. soon leading foot the from enormous shadoofs. though did . or silk-tree rather . view and we determined So courses we take the first cursory steep the of the the ruins* water* climbed bank. probably of Be- of those by temporary fellahs huts when of on palm- constructed the night duty. to moonlight. is plentiful about here of like blush a pod. branches. not some Bedawin a dog came with us. after a more attentive of view of the ancient we Egyptian strolled search ruins into of an and expanse but we remains Saracenic and bushes houses. 27 ' Evening found towards us still plying the oar we along arrived calm some reaches Koom It a Ombos. in principal which a in the the centre. which many in weight. in the Lights tents sparkling dawins. sand. the an The fruit. tower or reached nates termi- the of the which southern horn of The the semicircular ruin has kind fortification stands over of the ancient half brick city. overspread advanced side embraced ripeness by the At more masses of pod opens. swept ruined and but and plan formed was of glacis by within night . and which a shadow ascending seemingly the over of correspond heaviness. jumped and pylon. was a where bright hours after sunset. other was cases.

had the decreed duty of the labor sweets themselves. and the possessors authority idleness in other to countries. desert here easy slope. race heard in tradition parts. of drank halfe rises medicinally ground in an are On beyond huge edge the sat bushes. poison to in various save children. Amazonian was so of these quite the were it confusedly told. upon at On of leaving but Ombos in this. They by some mixed with the which vultures milk. that however. as in other we shot to in vain. . in we a A few and there.28 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. Near but Gebel were Molair expected We women find a hare- ground. burst forth The from about is to the curved as a cone of closely-set ways. seeds. it is them from and the the conscription. way in I did was. The with the upshot. saw crocodiles cases. seemingly meditative some mood. and to their subjects. the that dissatisfied by which taken the affairs conducte male sex. especially juice in order used blind say women. it. had like government of of into their own hands . banks them a sand. of but some disappointed. not stand underwomen.

it in Here there masses. and Essouan. level the east. what of mountains " from mass be called an an advanced of rock a huge side the of the sandstone. island forming the one of defile. Defile of Haggar " Silsilis of " Arab " Traditions Desert " " Evening Wild Scene Beasts " " Man-created Beda- Abysses wins " " Plain Silwa of Rocky " Sporting " The Yalley Mummies of " Inscriptions " Small Tombs " discovered Excavations Curious Mode Ruins " Cost and and " of Mummification Ammunition " Our of Bedawin unexplored to Guides Tombs " j their and Life " Arms News to Colocynths Sakaran of a " Resolve " return Fares " cursion Exas Companions " Traces Temple Humble " Cemetery Act Resurrectionists Bowls Report Plain for " Extraordinary Dead " Sarcophagi Ruined Ancient El-Birqeh " Portrait-carvers" Information " the thirsty City to " of the from " Hidden with Treasures Bowlders " " Return " Plain of Silwa Ramadeh covered Canal Inscribed Rocks.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. The remarkable defile of Haggar in Silsilis is Egypt. vast from basin. western ridge into the reaches stream it. broad hillocks in many separates may places. 29 CHAPTER IV. but on throws its precipices valley. the centre is about one of the most points has Upper The of a Nile. mountains in many at advance parts towards the desert detached ally graduthe whilst away. and . the widest the flowed of through point which Ombos. the main but covered body with the post in others. first opening in the . As you approach from south. slopes But west Silsilis two near mighty The ridges from east and draw the down a river.

bank. ridge thought soon that to appears have been is the the dry valley. stretched a Here chain dwelt across prince shore from shore. and in their legends tell the marvellous who. but the isolated promontory mountain on right to hand. open for the of both the stream. Ever but by man with . kind the or of dwarf willow. . as sides of we shot down " " the we oars scarcely hold of the rapid . branches various nothing shapes. was stop progress as of an fleet out Twilight of the to thickening we glided hand of and us dimming figure to forms ourselves on either enabled giant easily fragments We palaces at and northern a superhuman entrance. the quarrying subterranean rock. carved an aloft all tossed into that imaginable excavations The both Arabs banks are have the idea the city remains of a of peculiar things in old " construction. that hot morning's those not ramble through cloven those rocky sandstone those vast quarries. some say. saw immense temples. under a moored willow-hedge. to to levy the contributions passing invading past. to of times. Nature. deepformed mer. which I Nile once ancient on bed the seem of the . on here of the line of a trees. ham- by some convulsion of lever. abysses. pendant with was safsaf. vast current caves. to its history. to country. and the Libyan passage On taking traces streets was a the left. say others. the near kind the of east small tuft of palms I on shall never forget mighty avenues. but shrubs but peculiar stone. hewn through the living Near a bank silk- meagre there the fringe of vegetation. fortifications. on enable boats him.90 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

Here in the gulleys. keep On to side rocks mere still continue thread between close the leaving black We of land. that they were so small but a knew that to Silsilis had. still inveterate sportsmen. jackals. the night to see wolves. the with sand. 31 in they we viewing were so the Phaiaonic but monuments was. dropping for the down to place and moored the away night. for large. situated the a some inland. on derived of the disembowelled side Nile its whole moored course. the earth which been I descended. the sifted wind. to to watch their we for the wild they slink assuage thirst Next morning ascended a few hundred yards. not that .VILLAGE LIFE VX EGYPT. them principally and a covered with bank. billows was the sweeping the the there to horizon. and I climbed beheld the lava. fertile. all these parts of k little semicircular loose stones built on ledges of rocks. at the north was extremity and east. . but All surface stone of the rocks like underneath and were a seemed fine-grained amongst had as and good. Here the settled on Be* dawins. scraped for see a places where crevices used kind of or a yellow sprig from of soap. lie in wait beasts as moon* light along nights. Silwa. maculated and to footsteps had of hyaenas. which The stretches is tolerably distance to village the other river. after all. in I the did not bird to vegetation . that In inclosures gone down is common before drink. at of and the plain of Silwa. the sloping opposite to crossed. but ravines down by the leading the and was the river. made principally either feeble from contribution mountains throughout We were their materials. the desert of ridge in of black rocks. summit bowlders.

to On been a the very of of hill ably prob- appeared have a kind like building. and of Others were still closed induced out. great distance. Most probably . now supporting sheikhs' scattered cut cupola. to trench. the shape coffin cut but empty in depth a having four or cleared came sand to and a rubbish stone. an there the the valley south. but which been apparently with have not antiquarians. long .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and across immense the sand-drift. came a turned lofty point of hills. here the and there figures the size a of life. the of five feet. rock. those which cover tombs. me large the stones dirt. position been a rough still apparently when this we in the had into to in which last used. sudden We to a of cartouches. it had been placed 'the tomb crept room Having which flooring removed there was little up. the some river. nounced pro- very was old a After rise proceeding in to distance. cave. and one curiosity them to entrance of cleared in these spite of certain keen compunctions about violating summit square humble the last resting-places. in order and to be by in opposite us a place of discovered in going It was op. Fragments and about a of wrought masonry were round. At of a first we found out. we still remained to intact Within this little enclosure only a set work. engraved of smooth precipices. containing be of great number small inscriptions. square foundation for the wall in the a foot high. a called cut the Valley running of and a Inscriptions. of by Here had was cluster rifled long excavated ago. and overlooking tombs. but in comer. in the scarcely we stand composed but of of which mummies found imbedded to be of many layers in sand. in for a deep with on the ridge. to some variety kings.

good to their They have belonged both the the tribe of Ababde. On been nation. Bedawins. not was could the slope of the far from the entrance defile the Silsilis. of One named Abd-el-Mahjid. the long been still smacks . it is now down to talk with to two of whom young necessary say a word. paintings seemed to of any kind that on we and into have everything a indicate the very had broken tomb seen a reserved ridiculous for humble somewhere orders. to of were palm-sticks firmly placed close There together. sterling. although settled. Ismaeen. the settling space left appearing the be produced down of bodies the during mummies many were thousand found formed they to years. of Their tribe has 3 life. 33 the cave had at to one time been by quite the full. and. section VOL. ridic" because based of no a sound corpse data was. " I calculation on ulous. the cloths. we from see the on village of El-Hammam. in the the they like Sultan the Constantinople. whose somewhat sat remains had of in as his tomb ashamed having our acted guides. examilaid on have a kind of back-board. be. specimens honest lads race. resurrectionists. from May four I hundred to and fiftypounds the under cost be allowed as estimate been of producing and-sixpence We these ? mummies having three- carefully we replaced disturbed the grim fellah . is thrown Fine of back though alto third word . river of to which occupied the sides of mode the exclusion their of fellahs. little They of the were men. the to accent penultimate seemed said they other. hill to the of which south.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. whatever that the cost mummying to two in ancient Egypt. were no which swathed.

in company constant instrument people who are for extracting go of to generally very at barefoot Most of these weapons plain. possess. and one of inferior to materials. two friends had pushed as Kench.with and to an long. sometimes curiously . the above often thorns. producing bring principally up camels dhourra they more likewise and certain donkeys seasons for sale of these in populous the districts. They it seemed. that has Girgch. strongly they but of the desert They cultivate the little ground and barley. valued are from three oraa- pounds Ismaeen. The by guns. each to Keen a sportsmen gun. of of be Abd-el-Mahjid . always performed both. and had. strapped with use with arm. men At out the year young the far set with and droves our of mals ani- for lower as country. daggers. their journeys had in company. and smallest Most present is thankfully parts received. elbow. swords. wild pigeons. worn straight. to catch which they scarcely is rare consider and worth powder shot Ammunition quantity the kind as a expensive. large hilts . and the the shape cross-bows. and married united Ismaeen close the two seemed were in friendship. race taken the place we in saw this were out-of-the-way of had Most of people genuine Bedawin the the sister bonds to physiognomy. possessed a and during hare. anxious all together. light of these possess of some javelins. of They little traps. very and Siout with the It is probable little intermixture Egyptian colony. triangular crossed the heads . and our admirable stay a we shots. arms of inhabitants . thin. but supply express wish for jugged was and at once copious of the showed used raw us material also almost m brought.34 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

intoxication. or said stupefy in . that patches plant. rain-showers thick of fall of a in I know plant what sakaran. other tombs at a and day*i city. of the in the rock. and at began to propriety to of getting new up one of our sails. deposit. steadily closely statement. 35 mented entirely the with covered a coating with of wire. inland existed was whole curiosity They to excited. or at as Fares close the trinket sail. produced seeds produce called The this which as resemble name use sesame seeds. like- Rasras. the the stock warran is . questioned and we kept their fessed proonce have discuss examined the both places . at us. boys. as often are the skin of us. under found and our by a bright night moored morning horses. of javelinsand These the men ends their that " huge at a clubs. selection We made . the remains and to we that of a journey Our them. to It least was determined far as the we afternoon got up go back. fore- and through easily by the of evening a were again of dashing pierced a defile under moon. steep the bank for the . had soon donkeys. next half population looking down of Fares. Robbers are the to imports. young of at a told little distance west to the south " Haggar place of a Silsilis. sun. not created season. in an little shallow hollows. in order and to even death. the After we further towards wandering our in On were neighborhood. it. thin We veil clouds. ledges drying of heaps and at of gathered entrance colocynths of a the the Valley of by Inscriptions. the remains temple. Furthermore.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. so poison their victims. kind alluvial Egypt m miniature. returned boat. called on were the bank wise. and men. and returning some explore this ground.

some came the edge or About guides. tufts of leaving of the castor-oil to through soon thin palm-grove. told. claiming the both asked sons of distinguished and set They any could words write them neatly. account over given the had been main On line rising of a mounds. Abd-el-Mahjid Fares. Like and most they were impertinently least who familiar to inquisitive. without and the intention annoy. and probably the very most in men. but in the found correct. to Fares desert. we ran accompanied foot. instance two remaining The forms intact the height chambers. on companions. to work men fields. considerable twenty-three space. in about paces with in length of by breadth. of more than feet. two one on a fine and four huge others fellows left their of on little in the sessed posthan asses. and twenty . frightful skin disease. the galloped away plant. others were Ismaeen. a After over passing Rasras. some were There soon is the had doubts us at first. some and more disfigured Bedawins. friends. of the position . horse. and very one was join by us. Several the hideous physiognomies. the right. down I accurately by and well. we which saw a possibly mark the brick ninety enclosure. but covered in no remains walls of solid to some masonry.' that the waving We above. a of white and ahead. gentlemen did not had relations to to in the be perfect in boast comparison . stubble. As proceeded. and throwing edge our great coats across the of a very over razor-like dhourra a ridge which by most exhibited.86 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. of bare-backed them to beasts deaden . ' with few palm-trees temple. of the little village we saw a scattered long row the first swells mounds desert.

and was rifled . enter. Many and of tbe was stones hieroglyphics dated only it the suggested monument from us time of the Antonines. yet Possibly remains. pointment disapplace. had lacked us of and any kind. seeing and said the The this that Arabs temple assured rising been to that they of the what remembered two the height by men. point we the had interesting of noticed They they back-board and palm-sticks. and of just to restrained away We set one by the seeing mouth. one well-entrances of which tombs about were filled by Some our an of the party. excavated which we in what appeared be alluvial and on was. all . spots. the wind. They and came began scraping quantity at another earthen to an immense of pots. and from succeeded the of work scrape about stone. . covered. in spite of the stifling heat layer revolting layer. some came as Proceeding desert. white marked had open. into got. ornaments simply swathed. gatherings the and of tombs. a In in uncovering entrance huge or that stopped the of to the tomb cave. but It only no was full of mummies. the been it appeared small distance. These position were we hundred to a yards piece a to the west into the large at of swelling with ground. it had covered uncovers sand. that were stench. but wind of periodically the stones many must have been carried away. out an the hour sand they up largest wells. to to ugly looking snake wriggle from determined Bedawins the be sacrilegious to once more. soil. 37 of doorways were could covered that the be distinctly with traced.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and Our were guides annoyed promised by the painting gilding. of sand.

huge caricatures comical Possibly humanity it is possible eyes. more or us less to broken a and empty. of merely the coarse kind on. but more portrait gallery was awful of the . earthen- The with rude lids. but. beauty. of of quite plain. they tended inin a of but the departed. have on The the wise have of even a set a down portrait Cleopatra they as no evidence . we saw Even " the the visages skull originals. by cloth cases. the all being artists had cast different certainly disdained as flattery. the portrait failure. probably days. were The a others. " laid were ornamented of noses. faces to drollest . and as imagine goggle were grinning portraits mould : mouths. a beneath of scarce covered thin " mask blackened flesh and tight-stretched a were error less hideous. One was without stone.88 VILLAGE LIFB IN EGYPT. pretend a to discovered most if intended likeness. probably. of red ware. It is true hand that. about the size large coffin. a The " Egyptians their could are make of tree even geese problematical. in had few some of or a the artist's introduced this strange grotesque leer supernatural only rendered grin . a any and traces hieroglyphics. for never as of Old I think they failed into a : certainly was Lawrences face Rasras the human these convulsed resemblance with of the coffin-lid which a alto-reliefs. it not was. with A third duced trial intro- cave filled of curious sarcophagi. Why their Nile the should walls ? they the am have succeeded features to in the petrifying upon lovely inclined of old divine of Serpent failed. Some mummy-cloths in the stone found here bore traces of painting to a coffin. was a belonging fragment Sheikh- el led of those . and thereby.

which El-Birqeh. or seven others. of shortest Bern but I had the previously of out the mountains they were Birqeh from walls Ombos. from The Fares. and be . I the imagined the upstarting below. have been at superstition seasons the ancient and that certain well-swathed coffins. smelt of of the not as a now.. direction of sunset. to no situated were the foot extent. one. great It would There of. All a agreed of ruins. draining hours in of some infernal to much the as jollity mummies which is-permitted. from hours. rocks. from the on and rocks subsequently They seem pointed very of Silsilis. passed and. death these corruption. Looking and round dim cave. of ridge precipitous a of them. strewed about a . that stones. form to a an bold feature the horizon. were a They from situated said. and those as polite help shrinking those I could such conceiving from the with physiognomies called makes into me glared most coffin-lids. and it struck among their that it must peasants. sunrise good On that the the way of at old road. quarries knew The and ground figures ban. of them jostlingof above . grim wassailers. the well-pickled draughts as ancestors sat up in their wine. in at south-west Rasras a distance to short others. gilding. seen was covered of the with writings road ia from all best kinds. which Our inland said it " guides ruined was some had wonderful they a things called to tell us of the city. traces day's six an journey. in A good number of bowls were perfect me preservation. existence shiver even: horrible picture.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT* 99 with of thin streaks fine earthen- of ware. were take day but examine said they bearing tombs.

sitting to amidst expanse dense thickets. part. that now be numerous. mam. the Ismaeen concealed in neighborhood destined find and to haustibl inex- treasures. by of kings villages their high small priests. with the of scrip In- of the the their of have mention. stream a and returning. we A fox also a A little before wound sunset strolled now an along lane among open palm-trees. having assured must lofty. which was found started. and spent search several rambling were among the to quarries tolerably in of hares. pulled down the little below Ham- Next day we went to Ramadeh. been mummies. towns or No in doubt there several this district of to old. notice I have never read the tombs or any on of hill the near or Valley it. be the a property certain of the person sword. fields. where we landed . who also should very draw magical carefully hidden. again to our In station day the at former next head of hours the of Silwa. Here remained till moonlight. peculiar Rasras.40 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGTPT. be to If very at the distance of a day's not journey. Possibly visited for of my of temple tombs (though and been this is not deemed was they likely) unworthy of often but. I greatly especially were regret as able that visit them. I equally interested as by the were these tombs traces the and or ancient country-people. the that owed existence the we their prosperity neighborhood of evening the quarries pulled of down plain Silsilis. Silwa. or starting under very then feet. near now across of were bushes seen the now village and our of where in hares every up then open we places. isolated they been me group.

a ing Crossravine. the that plain At in front my was cluster of bowlders. and viewed some stony to beyond v/est was with a interest. like some with of others a huge city. "c. were At distance plain. The seen idea afterwards may be I had To cluster in east. of men on horses. containing I found them cartouches be . along the foot the probably plains inundation time communicates this we with to of of Edfou. a curious some of rocky may columns.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. small bowlders. veins. over along the the principal separates branch of valley. of or seeming in the witnessed. came the entrance a vast which smooth been up to as entered a the hills with that gradual at slope. the have the it of into man. a broad was high with It of river. with figures On approaching. clump with parallel and the palms. black the ruins All about dug natural. of it. though of them . and the another ravine the rather a apparently ruins midst I had of in direction its mouth. armed struck the half with me spears. bulls. interior similarly was the way to the river. bowlders engraved. and so bottom work I thought At first it must however. entrance meagre canal nearly rocks. that small search covered. looked caves. a Just above of our mooringwas now ground. it appeared. apparently natural. covered scratched large-horned that the hieroglyphics. the in the perfectly of dry. plain I of ridge beheld that it from conducting the Nile . earth apparently in of the yellow I have before mentioned. numerous length. smaller it broke were I climbed country the south- the top of a rock. attracted to curiosity. 41 to explore the near neighborhood. to Turning the the the rose south. banks.

have been like fellah and as artificially the ruins arranged. the entrance A deserted of stone village had stood the canal. . probably been erected by the people employed navigators. a At a distance they looked of Pelasgic near temple.42 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

plain. and visited the temple. kites. by a which visited. constant procession south to of flights partridges. or profusion. Edfbu " Rained " Village " on the " Temple " " Sporting Ancient " Excursion Paintings " " Coptic Curious Agono " vent ConThorn Hares " Bl-Kab from Necropolis Upper " Esneh " News in the " Country * Settlement ' " at Free " Trade Coin in Favor The Cry of Backsheesh Arabs calumniated Alms-giving Christian Countries. almost lake towards the west Pelicans. geese. On of remains made to a Coptic sporting foot built unburnt brick. herons. 43 CHAPTER V. teal. one of not perfect remaining out in the Egypt. crows. We the arrived most at Edfou. ducks. or village. vultures. town. with four altars . and cranes. inconceivable fields. roof are although the We properly of a cleared houses.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. the sand-hills beyond. Near the end we of the gisr was a Coptic was convent. paddy-birds. excursion of the near along the over gisr. a marshy state. We all moving from them north. passed numbers overheard. the church. among the found halfe sitting in immense and on grass. divers. which a zigzags still in the distant the hills. approached of dry land. cormorants. hovels The court encumbered number . hawks. in storks. the covered and as the we water and the the dotted a sky.

and guarded large. small principal They pits and caves. . which relations supposed slaves. contained We over a few rude paintings. Siwah. polite old were gentleman. we threshed the boughs. communicate large by rugged with no very for poor are unsculptured and to destined. others with well-entrances. but quaint to and amusing on in a rior infe- the paintings Chinese been porcelain. beat found the in going of and amongst large were clumps bushes. Several principal of drowsy as our long-eared amusement gentry consisted startled. or recesses. derived from ancient Egyptian . opposite up. sculp- of high antiquity. pas- themselves. but no inscriptions. and manure -mines to the peasantry the rocky the north. that some this was Around of the or cut in the but no face rock. of the Here ancient by visited city earthern now of Eilithyas. curs black totally different the we the of Lower to Egypt. we started cations fortifiused necropolis as for El-Kab. numerous denied tombs. life in style a represent very scenes of domestic manner and agricultural . at are very "We nearly ran over resembling the but Gebel-el-Mouta tombs. sculptures was ornaments of of any kind. was had the been told of a by Arabs cave it the the built a entrance vast priest.44 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. the but that . and The halfe plain covered dogs of with flocks sheep goats. by surprising from we fierceness. but our in noticing the myriads sparrows men that flew up. In where about evening had crossed hares the bank. and settled Next the down morning vast again. in sages. case. be The tures. A them good on deal of information has manners. It consists the of an isolated mountain. doubt.

covered with and said red an bear but producing kind were of of berry. At of the Esneh.ways. the lintels and jambs of We which dimly by and a ornamented path noticed leading a with to hieroglyphics. some on all sides. and we agreeable the we taste. had were been allowed sent form because a settlement the and only away Turks. exception of cording Acthe him. of the in spite of the interference account and he Pasha north to governor. and took a Piedmontese. north returned enclosure. chief. the mummies niches calculated were an for receiving ever of children. Shlouks. of which still remained. back boats He Kartoon gum. where now visited and admired out. liberal of which king. The was disposed visited the trade. he a furthest in direction. merchants. and in disposing in merchandise he purchasing opposition his cargoes. In the or behind excavated hill caves. . White Nile about a from full of country. said. were just beyond tame the and limits of the and Egyptian well country empire. and the with year of several in the the He had with had spent upper succeeded him. portico met an on perfectly cleared was Essouan his way acquaintance. man Agono. which Many are is honey-combed with neatly cut excavations. contorted to some the of of the thorn. a branches leaves. was isolated by with two reached were door. rock. staircases of reached seemed by in the rock. enter was of with disposition. very with the satisfactory. great with never curious kind prickles. to quite if hospitable. anxious to into even relations foreign to The priests there. of The was gave of the regions Kartoun the tribes.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. that or let alone. temple. valley three if children the mummied. 45 The whole hill.

was had so well begun entirely extinguished. Gum dollars piastres is valued as also other preferred articles. to his peculiar point he is likely have observed very correctly. in were jealousy. good cheap Egyptian onyx liked. the a But. The time money of are the also women are of Charles IV. Turk monopoly length and put acted in like practice Turk. hear It reminds us of Frenchmen constantly because English are saying. that from travellers of Egypt cry complain. and These rings of amber received as almost facts friend.46 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. . speculation were began at to not trade with Gallas. the ignorant cast natives that on they their who wickedly blights crops. A Turk governor to place the on the BlueHiver. is Spanish abounds. Almost and the instantly trade which merchandise he arrive. at satisfied with a gams.' There good the exaggeration who in this. very good. they were end the ' other assailed must rue with be a one continual deal of for backsheesh. to pathetically. I set down from stated by oar Piedmontese of view.' these the only . Our danger informant and was gave us a curious instance with of the absurdity made and was of interfering of some commerce. Many one because. persuaded sorcerers. cYes. at A forty kind or of fifty as by the piastres. money. several established arbitrary ceased to measures. the but White it would found an mines export. his The first profitable. Nile not are as On iron. of Gold ivory excellent pay dust and is brought valuable down in fair quantities. yes. for customers delighted find a market without reasonable going to Abyssinia.

but Professional cry do at beggars. the who generally not from word noticed at as impudent in a children. he After to a small charge he to turn-to injured held out to returned fuddah near the . their first of impulse away. . instances working in the fields. we brats. ya backsheesh. observes forget to remunerate him the in women accustomed squatting by way. Travellers Arabic on arrive in generally their with scrap of already possession. proceeds the course. were Khawagah!' direful as if they thought they uttering worked been insult. not be induced approach calumny take has The no sweeping doubt. himself up us into or fury " he might manner " have and calling we dogs Jews from a his away of when that turned he threw and round. the irritable virtue the Political Economist school. " strolled Khawagah walls. * dogged Backsheesh. but hope of to vague. having on noticed part of of try indiscriminate it on. especially. Esneh. tone pronounce as supplicating it exasperates dozen round ! all. but few pieces. some ground. roadside. fancy it is used said. in to which I allude of its origin. both with when the one. made into upon bolt in such one bustle his head rolled the we the eye of his companions. One perfect little fellow. the In some few or men districts. enough could them. out. their as if I may is so that expression. the black and barking ya a brown. but if they had Thus us that a some touchy persons. that should is to you run stop it were comply. success generosity use the Franks. As I have man already who that it is appropriate a the mouth of every and the performed personal service. persevere . has you every possible in occasion.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT* 47 words ef our language this and one they know.

of hypocritically courage. but from a those give that. not difficulty her being in a dragoman explained it was her. multitude being persecuted Benisouef pool for by a fit to wait in some round order the to of Bethesda. but consider it damnable sin to give that penny. resolved invoke she a Being undoubted accepted no consequence unhesitatingly inculcated that form of belief which our the duty of affording be gratuitous in a relief to civilized herself fellow-creatures threw should overboard. of falling lady the unhappy him the whip very The having along told through to hit hard. . it. at once her Bible and enrolled under the banner of what is now called philosophy. It is reported one of at our modern Collegiate alms ladies. sanction. in " days to ' when true despotism the is be scouted. whole of called them for a policeman give the in charge. wretches not wished in hand. at once went musing created. ask in perfectly who were lawful willing country. tolerated land. . perceived absolute incompatibility system " of the the actual body regulations of the of our with our whole Christian social doctrine which as legislators. Christian people to country. being medan Mohamif she he would upon take the liberty. to With that. which a will thankfully receive a a pension. from that ' premise firmly established " in her criminate indis- charity' these the error a pleonasm liberty she soon ' for means charity itself. working mind. lane which examine he and the was naturally led Church ! to the question of is connection power of of logic and and State.48 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. for these to poor . the nevertheless. by Marvellous unconscious the Guided the the hint of Botchy.

4 way. huge flights of wild . chambers. curiosity that I doubt noticed more repeated explorations. a are the remains of brick rich at The with path. so numerous we sanctuaries. II. series of courts. in truth. small led town where.mo in the gateways world . the left. beside houses. Carnac their A " Medamot " Wild Pigeons " Ancient " Brick Bouluks Vocal Houses " " Dancing-girls Venus " . fall short no to exaggerate in describing There pillars so gigantic. colonnades. than has one objects of after half. It is to be a regretted that Government at established that gunpowder one factory the close has hand. and of the mortal vast constructio massive. to Thebes. the which and is circuitous. than so it is easier it.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. 49 CHAPTER VI. " Quarter after scolded " " An the " Arnaout Manner Practice Party of the The " Egyptian " Supper Turks on Statues Dog-Latin " The Mode Tourists of Puffing " of Writing of Ancient Monuments New The Tombs the Kings " Ancient " Paintings Progress " alisms ConventionTimes Battle Scenes " " Art of the Egyptians in modern " A lofty Mountain Extended View. through always plains. The we a following second day time a we pulled all down the place. visited wonderful celebrated and Carnac to are is. I rode temple. same ruins to groves On of Carnac the the distance VOL. and as more than of pylons been used a stone lime- quarry. across the fields to of a Medamot. where ruins. contain whether.

Hosneh-et-Taweelee when . little girl was* performed of little better same evidently towards beauty. private and that dwellings the built tion popula- of flimsy lived materials. They ten. being very imperfectly here only preserved. now. celebrated boat. at who now here little cluster a than Esneh. and though we their the scarcely the condescended feet or even to flutter of way together. not Probably great used ruined but still existing are of very antiquity. that old very times. doubt. . therefore. Although with the no temple other on of Medamot will stand small me. digging walls. pretty but she a set of hideous dancing a blacks. outside professed Their the quarter consists but the us of a of hovels village. to although self-appointed of every but one guide of the know dwelling to see celebrities. but the the the category. comparison and this the plain. of of grass. see One evening party more went common out the dancing-girls.50 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. were uncovered small rooms. pigeons passed settled through out so on patches midst. was a or coarse-looking sham. he took nothing fellahas. for have very was Our some mooring-ground of are our Luxor. by but The the houses fellahs thick at to Medamot. no everywhere monuments in the only public in remain. as The most reason. despairing of the returned. except of temples. It is curious tombs. seven. than the We with whom mere One rest. in the they built with the large brick that enclosures else. were is. down donkey's six. saw visit interested the because the ancient are j traces of the private houses life of Thebans. bulk of of the in hovels. of seeing the Venus boatmen. which manure. crowded could be close that brought with one shot.

It and invite with some hesitation to determined. or eight dancing one. generally even kept half-closed on dancing. room. elegantly shaped. quiet cut-throat physiognomy. in company installed upon large with a dimly and as lighted divans. and applause as in Her eyes. the heard merriment. the cheeks. out to of the house Presently. really would European she a The principal Hosneh beautiful herself. ever with strange with. About half dozen a Arnaouts. the sat said and to be Circassian Memlooks Sheikh-el-Beled. party. who at the rolling of the room. few . been was my a lot to genteel Bouluk. had learned pressed principal Ghawazees the service was all been night into of the proposed that Bouluk. to and around her the mouth. handsome. her was her chin every exquisitely moulded. and near other magnates was a of the crowd village. girls. place a of upper end all of men. we should was ourselves with came were join the introduce The master application received himself we politeness. all more or agreeable. about burly. as pipe set fingan it has in hand. tail. admiration and any have attracted ball-room. which. the lashes when sometimes they opened resting beamed nose.VILLAGE LIPB IN EGYPT. room. and the us. comfortably with oil-lamps. in the drunken. woman. roaring villain. and nothing . from was another just honor other Esneh was great. in a therefore. associate sort The Bouluk He " himself treating a of ruffian arrived enough. to us. seemed. 51 we passed sounds the of head-quarters of and the Arnaout that that garrison. around . fill " it with redoubled feature " light. inferior the door of people. There less was Arnaouts were and seven others. in is the custom.

was refusing to drink the that offered. the Arnaouts mood. the door ! might make the at When the were ladies told had that retired there hosts was we wished a to retire also. however. listened awhile the . In this instance. Hosneh. than spread our round hands. series metal were and basin. We stay. were flavor. and slightly overpassed by the bounds supple her of delicacy. gave real pleasure the and elegance of her movements. any towards the of the evening. truth. true. whisper. end of every close It is make at presents rate. but our we supper toward.TILLAGE LIFE Ut EGYPT. told and the was It is probable. to Afterwards smoked pipe. but means. that the their custom services to or. and highly we creditable a the taste cook. and task very that we were little enthusiasm. we If were a in present a rous geneto however. fame describe as had the short I will not " performance to of as a this Egyptian pine-apple measure Aphrodite a superior Katchuk have in to potato repeat " because what but has I should been a great to said in another place. therefore. the give as girls something would be . applauded dance. Both the herself in animal companions went seemed through even under their mark with arraki what spirits. our washed into them to our and of of of dipping fingers Most of a genuine excellent the Turkish dishes. servants offended. were namely. a forced at gratuitous. We we but not para made in a its appearance. he whether said by we no asked should the Sheikh-el-Beled. could exceed the beauty of fallen her arms and of the hands. and benevolent-looking that on we insisted Napkins came with were uproarious brought a hospitality and ewer soon should knees.

on the cheek painted The or sculptured goddess " I cannot understand. why for every in out-of-the-way modern place. point some of cases abstaining the from inscribing may be In . sent a back by amply the servant lighted home which with we lantern. or it necessary commemorate an not modestly. travelling travelling should " Egypt in Wales. 'hundred in times. than the from eastern. days But steam vulgar and than tourist. to our and boats. throats. party upon made rock a I have my always name. 53 spluttering ruffian from the decent Esneh. gold.audii. more with numerous its overhanging presents objects of in temples Vocal curiosity and was. his presence corner. in these when of in navigation is easier to tranquillity. think once.' was The created same wag by the used Nile. Columns of . our had with literally close almost down the room. western plain mountains. visited . the Theban far valley. and being a Scodri which half stifled forced of with supper. of a in the of inscription. or unoccupied and. and jokes bought then been the upon Circassians. and practice to harmless enough a it is interesting " find the example signature " of an celebrated person Bruce. the 'Ex Nilo nil on ftV For I may any my add. as he roared calling out insulting slaves . atmosphere A who couple of bottles us of wine. a Statue wrote of the course. prove Egypt not from the philosophical that this wrote was axiom. and " witty on basement to 'Mem: that non. only or occasion monument. which of pur part. to a paid for the hospitality The had of certain extent extorted. We to here revelled The companion tombs morning evening.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. boasting of a them with escaped. by but fifty midst a an preference.

minutely black of A has the up clever Maltese. . of all weariness. between richly painted . every every temple painting reduced statue pulverized. care understanding announce value of puffing. which. Egypt seeing it is really worth anything despair. men. inscription every every effaced. a though not hands. From and and in of this when passage add the is easy to wanton destruction of . Their they seem variety is infinite. we combined surprising I do efforts that not antiquaries remains however.54 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. precipitous hills of both sides. of Philse Beni to Hassan Alexandria " are defaced nations. you the Gournou. on a like great and are works. Caves from of the Tombs of the " Kings. letters the names obscure or individuals daubed in of all either colossal carved size. spurs here never as majestic some mausoleum. The only Arabs. Pyramids. The the Assasseef extensive but Biban-el-Melook on incomparable. Carnac. takes a A round with a rocky behind pass. and. in by the the fact. In galleries. write sketch and following names their and sentences from of the the Koran. to a rendered illegible. Turks. the heap of be chips spent A without month any might sense among tombs alone. and rubbish. sepulchres are grander the most still third. grander on a second inspection. towards mountain made with pyramidal serves summit. not places that is dragoman elegant in the example. visiting. animals. pierced. every the monument. but caricature even resemblances steamers. as we its lower the tombs there " thirty long " expanding I shall wandered the and into chambers impression their inclined are forget slowly the produced floors down walls. he taken best the to in various world.

its highest the Egyptian state at art here have reached of perfection several degrees arrived to below in point which * Italian art had the age of Cimabue. 55 beneath seems the strangely to ornamented roofs. and nances. are stare . the drapery is about is flowing The their composition arranged in there none. The appeared nature.. aim arrow. wofully deficient. figures generally are in a long merely lines. the his containing stags. expressed read conventional of battle places. I have hunting scenes animated descriptions these and beheld by a in and or other A battle is represented king like six eight feet high. faces have as stupid deal-board. a manner. inclined very small progress the . wild profusion is at a Lilliputians. remain The colors and in admirable preservation. is displayed. giant point fowl. ill-drawn. counteone graces discover in ! or two see groups of perspective forms I could to me nothing of and all only this.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. taking of "c. to A at sportsman. The painters were Raphaels decorators of ancient but Egypt as beat draughtsmen our and hollow. shooting a bow into compartment containing in like frame. and occupations manner. higgledy-piggledy that the together. beauty The the the are principal coloring slightest laid on thing in a be admired point is the of not mechanical of view. with with of his a legs stretched a out compasses. their Some eyes. for artistic feeling flat and even. little square just boars. actually accustomed admire the to dwell beauty upon of the caricatures. school-boy uniform as a faintly on a resembling The like one sketches slate. wild I in am huddled think. the the traces the the forms. of expression composition of .

but costume was each god where or goddess the same the in Greece. certain forms . but to made statues more progress all stiff It is true. As to the of or artists customs. archaeologists is more own for objects artists and of their It by probable want were restrain their as we of talent knowledge* certain No doubt. mechanical skill in seem the have As sculptors. recent with contempt these productions. its genius Saviour. Messenger. that its Virgins. other the Huntress. their praise for beauty of . arts made empire by the was ancient not Egyptians so is a proof as that their of long duration is sup* posed. It and the a was not. art the had. Thunderer. uniforms. Jeromes. at as works of art on that the I admired walls wondered the representations . Johns. than as the as Egyptians painters. complains in. has little space is an move There of some evident progress in Egyptian monuments post-Pharaonic antiquaries and times look reserve . restrained within it to be limits by laws I believe strange the that fancy. of the tradition to required accompany case symbols. certain a mere finish that and the beauty genius the was features. singularly on enough. as and their every mythological and to it were. are told. fancy. but as of Tombs of the Kings ornaments exhibiting a taste verging sometimes and much towards grossness. and invented by the partiality of travellers studies. yet to never its St. . although. being. their are corpses about there is sometimes great idea. rigidity modern adheres modes with almost draping absurd certain recognised of and and adorning Our too its St. therefore.56 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. great fertility of execution.

VILLAGE

LIFB

IN

EGYPT.

57

design,

boldness
the

of
uncouth

execution, attempts

exquisite
of

finish, and
most

so

forth, for
antiquity.

the real

barbarous

The
of size,

only

figures
seen

of
in

sublimity,
are

spective irre-

I have
to

Egypt,
the

those

of
that

the

women

supposed
some

represent

heavens,

embrace small

of
on one are

the

astronomical
roof of the

subjects
temple of

in

the

chambers
remind

the
of the

Dendera.
but, obtain

They
because
not

Blake's
work

wonderful

designs,

they

of'

mere

moderns,

the

suffrages determined,

of

amateurs.
on our

We

second the

visit to

the

Gates

of

the

Kings,

to

ascend

to

summit

of
was

the
a

pointed

mountain

that

overhangs
and

them.
we

It
came

breathless
path
to

piece leads
valley

of
down

work;

when
the

to

the

that
the

along

edge

of

giddy
we

precipices
had

of the Nile,

almost
moment's

felt that

done
went

enough. again, peak, Not
by of
that

However,
and
were

after
length,

a on

pause, the

up

we

at

reaching
a

summit

of

the

rewarded
was

by the

most

magnificent

prospect.
divided expanses
desert,

only
the

visible

whole into
two

plain

of

Thebes,

winding sharply
on

river

semicircular with
the

green,
stretched the

contrasting

yellow

either

side

to
or

the

foot

of

the

rocks,

}"utto
to

south

the

Gebelein,
almost travel
even on

Two
our

Mountains,

half way
to

Esneh,
the
eye

seemed
could
and

at
as

feet;
as

and

the
reach

north

far

the

great

of
in

Negadeh,
from
beneath by the

to

the way

ridge
to

of

hills sweeping

Keneh.
us were

the

Kosseir.
defiles
or

Immediately
glens

the
base

numerous

formed
ruins

projecting
of

of

the

hill, and

filled with
right
was

and
nou;

tombs

all -dimensions.

To
the

the
two

Gouron

then

the

Memnonium;

statues

the

58

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

plain;

Medinet Medamot
the
one
a
"

Habou;
all

beyond
distinctly

were

Luxor,
as on

Carnac,
a

and

visible
away;

map. the

Behind,
of
to

desert
white

hills
streak

rolled
was

and
out
as

along

side

pointed

the

direct

road

Farshoot.

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

59

CHAPTER

Vn.

Conscription
Improvements The
"

in Upper
"

Egypt Meddling
the
"

"

Regular
Foreigners
"

Method
"

of raising
created
"

an

Army
in

"

Modern
"

Alarm

the
the
"

Country
Great

People

fly to

Hills An

Places

of Refuge
Palace
" "

Scene
Dance

from

Peak

A

False of

Alarm
"

Under-ground

of of

Grief

tion Embarka"

Recruits

Melancholy
"

Spectacle
the Arms

Procession

Mourners
of
some

We

are

unjustly Cursed
"

Eeneh,
of

deserted
in

Town
"

"

Exploit

English
"

Travellers
an

Signification
Agent
"

Egypt

Dangerous

Mania

Call

on

English

Singular

Effect.

During Pasha

the

winter
proper,

of 1850-51,
say by
some,

his
to

Highness
the

Abbas
cies deficiencauses
"

thought

supply

created
say others, prevision motive,

in his army
to

death

and
number
the

various of

increase

the

total with
an

the

troops,

in
the
went

of

a

struggle

Porte.
for
a

Whatever conscription
to

it is certain
and by the had

that

order
we

forth;
the

time
been

returned

Thebes
and of
the

from
was

Cataracts,
throughout

partially
and

executed,

known

the

length

breadth

land.

In the
troops

good

old

times
a

of

Mohammed Men

Ali,
were

a

levy

of

much any

resembled

slave-hunt.
they
so

seized found;
that,

without
and the

warning,
was

wherever

could

be

operation
an

performed
amount

rapidly
was

though alit

immense by
were

of

misery

created,

was

accompanied

comparatively
cast,

little disturbance.

The

conscripts

bound

hand

and

foot,

into

60

VILLAGE

LIPS

IN

IGYCT.

the by
soon

boats,
a

and

thus

transported
of

to

head-quarters,
koorbosh,

where,
were

liberal

application into

the

they

converted
followed by9thc
way

slipshod
on

heroes.

Their
such
as

wives did
not

generally

them

foot, and
to

perish

contributed
and

increase

the

pauper

population

of Cairo well
their

Alexandria.
the
to

As
maiming away
teeth,
means

is

known,

Egyptian
allowing Thus,
one

mothers
them
some

prefer
be taken

children

to

for

military
others

service.

extract

their

whilst of

put

out
or

of

their eyes,

either
the

by

sharp
seen

needles
a

the

milky

juice of
been
lame
to

silkoyer

tree.
a

I have

lad whose
young,
to

foot had
order

held
him,

fire when
might maim the be

he

was

in

that
men

he alsp

preserved

his

parents.
mothers

Young
have the
two

themselves, tender
means care, or

when either by

their

ted omitabove-

by

some

of
or

mentioned
fingers.

cutting

off

one

of
has

their

Mohammed

Ali's one-eyed

regiment

often

been

mentioned.
seems

It
Pasha
highly

to

have

occurred
pursued

to

the

advisers

of Abbas
was

that the barbarous
to

method
and
on an

by

his

grandfather
resolved,
"

uncivilized. entirely French
new

He
plan style,

fore, there-

proceed

to
to

organize take
so

a

conscription
men

in

regular

and

many

from

each

district according admit
the

to

its population. of
an

At
this
but

first sight,
seems
a

if

we

necessity

army,

reasonable

mode
more

of

proceeding,

enough

;

in practice
more

it caused

protracted
into
the

suffering,
than

and
the

introduced brutal

disturbance
of the

country,

proceedings
have

great persons,
man

Pasha.
in
whose be

I

often idea

heard
one

minds

the

immoral

that

may

rightly

governed

to big. 61 and disposed as of by another. I often other means occasion and not to repeat. and belts. or is the it. suited to object. take men. taken being out to if they the reform them. otherwise. fellows. instead was of devolving entirely Nizam. and whatever above please.9 character Hold and inducements and they or their to capacity. do not well. enable or the pangs or them live without begging the knitting of stockings. however . trafficking would be ignobly the way to on beauty the their This to destroy prejudice from against military a life. are to whether soldiers as But to the truth is. maimed. whilst of misery. or They patriotic.' are call as Egyptian or peasantry. is ineradicably individual any as fixed. of of robbing time or people their their right own to dispose small their own labor way. I have heard cannot to them. hunger allow as starve uniform. to with under regularity their even all . that the are fellahs. by deploring.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. repress that tightened. far preferable the hypocritical On the or under the his grandson. more or toothless less blinkers. and of prevent Egypt becoming region method. industrious compulsion. the duty of on carrying the the out conscription. the rapid if violence summary to is to be day. wives. not were more than proper besides. was practice of Mohammed device present Ali adopted occasion.very 'on properly. regular troops. credit of soever whom- may advise the order introduce of the Indeed. idle so. entrusted to Sheikhs . of cases "peak which the with ' vigorous they made are proceeding pleased work. Pay them them navigators. their of complain. in duty admiration idle bound. or will be ready you become soldiers. As to any other of in civilized.

men* for example. men. Alexandria for a found time well at and exemption) of a placed mercy to class of already so disposed he tyrants. for such emergency every to by people cave. state the country into a of perturbation. be out every of by quarry. a What opportunity a for indulging in any friend. movements travellers we filled Wherever were went thenceforward. police. Perhaps operation Sheikh of officials so invidious and so The Luxor. private or for who straining was point to favor of a of father son willing purchase the indemnity country favor the for his ! The fortunes and of whole population (Cairo were men. of when the villages. once ordinarily fugitives.62 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. were example. No sooner did than news of the whole intentions was of Government thrown was circulate. wretches food or precipices. an or himself hid in seizure. moving parallel with we along not giddy to summits climb. watched the by or files of in of squatting lines on the us spurs of the hills. themselves either with sufficient with Their friends brought . supposed mountains. " had was to provide tenor twelve his order 'active " young he was such carte the in of but an given blanche the selection. of fled away to places the refuge of old prepared times. considered visited with our glen. Boys. not " and for at reach " those. liable the young to men. hate. were estimable these at once rural the never Arnaout engaged profitable. cavalry. valley. Almost every one all work who the suspended. necessary. in an with of power that to call in the assistance. Every tomb. course which was could venture Of to it impossible for all these poor provide water.

down if necessary the slopes. heard they the and throughout sound to day these occasionally as projectiles. feet and in descending laboriously. and catch any one whom starvation weariness When we induced went to descend. the with or hysenas nearest a wolves. hated was a At the first notice whom towards peak of the ruffians. there was on general of the hills. which our guide. and dust. had a passage. to began that rolling were stones they the to defend we themselves. we to work our way. into one down who us of and the other on private causes tombs was with exempt. for rush lookers-out the set. 63 them at at the former. canals their great they remained part of their until time the in the villages. summoned protected the by their numbers. downwards. alarm was that overlooks at plain . drink Sometimes. tombs. pools even. instance to did keep venture being to content watch the foot or of the hills. When I the top the great of before a mentioned. a I believe pursuit. narrow time for The and a man could as hold steep in a such well.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. along but they the generally or had the to come down to night. retreats. in some danger of from heat I do know . almost was winding. plunging When they into they all place ther far- bound for the " reached their retreat of safety from the which could " always they show into large ready desert. Sheikh assistance approach were of of the these Arnaouts. he amused from by "age speculating out as the retreat. and Thebes. false raised of men Gournou presently up numerous long and lines appeared the ravines ing hasten" the slopes. crashing of jumped in no from crag crag the towards recruiters at the plain.

in passed notable part of their existence of by the the under-ground of in the palaces. but the time it we seem took as in working if we down. soon required not number of the conscripts were seized . A great portion of all the first batches . distance In places the the river. or month. for the vine-tree. but those uniting and a necessary conditions of health. magnificent to fruit-laden garden. great to One created chief causes the perturbation the systematic conscription. hundred we below a the surface chamber. a might two live any length as time week. a sake effect. proper age. was so purposely covered that we made with a undulate. the actual down. of was the force put at the disposal for them had some of to the carry Sheikhs. walls were of At by length beautiful The supported painted seemed four elegant colors when pillars. the artist and had fresh as the eye of alone to admired his work. but burrowing. of as exclamations regarded his " delight that he the a a merely as place In there opinion. seemed though be in subterranean Our our guide. said I objected to was the stifling atmosphere and seemed to that heat healthy. however. impossible even their turn orders the if they not desired near occasion at a to profit. long his provisions his . on a in as brilliant white ground. depth was . patience but he lasted. the and great from hills. like several moles. it a soon re-echoed appeared of refuge. . strength. in his mind of princes the and stories who which Shaharazade a ladies. made feet reached had penetrated the earth. out to It absolutely at once. months. was addition deficiency method affected. The of ceiling.64 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. hackneyed of tomb man in . wild have floating relates.

their faces by At Luxor besmeared the same with testified their which grief perform were dancing at solemn after a they motions threw their houses funeral.' suddenly to a this is the in the women. Our scenes whole that downward constantly of voyage was saddened by the presented themselves the women connected turned mud.we Their as slow. inscription Tombs of broken by Lepsius. incapable of lifting a gun. naboots supported thongs. of ers mourn- painted our the walls of the Indeed.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. led along . came be complete the districts not of Luxor our Carnac. or shrieks along to banks. by one The the young men. certain uncouth ancient out figures tombs.* and are stopped the ' Kings. they up their of forcibly reminded on even. troops. . departing. !' to conscripts was As for the batch supposed and boat. them neck both and arriving neck. over across fields and curse all the the directions. There among by by a spectators. far from dark Immense with the files measured in of in their the mourn dresses. This is boat. superintended were operation. and were .' this is a crocodile. and dance with out this levy in crowds. and arms strikingly into the marked air. The with Sheikh-el-Beled. they were embarked women. fast bound. of a guide whilst as ' drawling he such ' pieces antiquari knowledge ' possesses. 65 sent soon were as ridiculously they reached at young. agents the was departing not a man of tyranny. These pointing the mourners soon as group for the of exclaimed. mere Siout chained children. the and were returned We saw as central and depots. the one a few fellows body of armed and and small Arnaouts.

and if rescue were be but wood leather brought play. filled to the and carl sheep for slaughter. that the them he child. cursing The the uprose grief a as another voices shattered brim. boat the to crowded in from was back dust . from ' " shore son . sounds. left their wailing until and distance. went. and crowd again fields. and the begged terrible to his But . swallowed up these Wherever sad sights we afterwards fresh had when not a ' episode long of this drama presented the itself. curses. and mothers. but to when curse us boat opposite began for depriving Turks. !' were ! 'O The my ! O were my so borne crew sounds unearthly mocking mourner. and across forming the arms. every moment less formal. returned tossing up they had and their and once throwing right measure. in and nified undigthen tumbling. becoming amidst the cries of the women. rolling cry. Our him of his very only much mistaking " for people. yell ya our for last the time. and tears. the son frightful Ya ibni I to burst ibni ears. We left Gournou. plank. and sisters.66 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. a alarmed are for the imprecations " of bereaved that we father were not launched that we in vain shouted to out travellers. and words. water A shriek the of despair broke into whence pursued away with across the . again in like time. and thrilling times a were with acuter expression through rolled the as air. by night. forward. had the nothing man do with the conscription. the heeled last the sail swelled them sobs wind. at first thought our us it came was some demon the . by like over and with huge rage. wives fear. some cries. At a wave of about into blue to dresses made . now long serpentine lines come.

his deceived cowardice. to to ever Whenthe possible. harem in in . itself. and excitement doughty danger interfered with of these travellers. hoped that transpired the it is to be of darkness the aim. Ya ibwi! us ya as ibni the alternating denunciations against supposed child-robbers. filled and and have was passengers. Some to had the hidden. and ruthless be believed actually which a themselves fired had shot. Now wandered with pilgrims shop not all was was life movement. night Some the English of ground a travellers alarmed by sound boat-load' . to Being whilst in of flagrant course. trusting crossed inviolability and taken the had the river. were a to attacked: at by the whole no broadside signs is every than to supposed and did enemy. as every closed. their plain of Dendera. to we a along. the refuge the inaccessible hills above indeed. a most extraordinary left that presented like a We streets had were city with bustling fair. of persons approaching by a their rascally mooringdragoman. 67 sounds nor still continued " " he was not we to be had comforted passed ! ' enlightened the and long ' after: we still heard with same words. soul I do remember seen single their others abroad. The . the fugitives village. it of said. and complaint.VILLAGE LIFE IN BOYFT. and. crossed in order side of of the Nile facing be out jurisdiction of were their one Sheikhs. houses. disobedience ever Government. When spectacle we came to Keneh. sibly posin. . robbers.. I mention the circum- . not return given' There no of hostility to reason suppose " that the robbers other conscripts bank as indeed river they cried out " escaping attacked no the of the opposite.

We as The indeed a I have not even already succeed old us said. blended. answer come Had the feather the meaning young are it would travellers to purpose. on toddling from or a it singular emerging three bazar. of the but who with English suited was agent. liable own commit other perpetual people's and to put their and lives aspect in of jeopardy. they in which are fear to curiously mistakes. but first sight as the as may remain long people and audacity in arc this frame mind. and just passed see. A respectable received gentleman. the seem preparatory of Suez. not an probably eye driven was privileged. through brats to peeped by as we rode period along. Keneh. enough of taking ride mania Desert harmless At . never weapons other of offence than sporting If they let a same carried for it be insignia same of rank and respectability. was desolate. . the after imaginative of the of that the were Orientals. . idea seen Many there out with . and the that a perils be encountered arm I have gun. to gravity the a dismal aspect city. could in buying pair of acts a red as slippers. where breathless old no men. because that it gives should me an opportunity or of be are as remarking regarded as fire-arms seldom in Egypt purposes. silence smoking reigned. omnibus gentleman and across of this class himself to with an sword. manner pipes the in a reverend and doubt discussing. their four solemn-looking circle. stance here. his His house. revolvers. political them. reception-room where we little square sitting with windows crevices the were in front a of found The the him few shut friends. bearings events passing around .68 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. politely.

were I went fast and solemn. created and will long my mind. alone in the evening. by amidst which no means are the of ancient only new interesting in suggesting the us reflections. being perfectly idea it its enabled us form a accurate ancient and were temple every really time We visited with repeatedly. Dendera cleared of what a treat. vicissitudes and most was. an strange rich to of nations. afforded out. found The remain the shadows gathering. more struck majesty when and grandeur. 69 CHAPTER Vm. Egypt. An excursion in the desert behind the temple in . numerous and it tenanted impression on by a few was owls bats. Overflow Chronology Bold Habits We had confused stopped ruins as on at Coptos. Coptos " Dendera Plain " " Excursion " " Haou of " Bellianeh the " A Palace Pleasant of to Bide Memnon the " " Fertile Girgeh Monastery " Slingers " Produce of fugitive " Land " " Ekhmim " Traces with Ancient Fellahs " " City " Excursion White mense Im" Parley of " Hostile Monastery Demonstrations " line Ignorant Traveller from our " Grottoes Wild of " Athribis The to Our Meet on Reception an Priests Bucks" " Hints Gourmands " " American " Traits Kitchen " Character He goes Tea-Party " He of " feeds Pigeons News of " Ahead not Canal Souhadj Alluvial " Rationale the Inundation Theory " The Nile of the does Nile. the and wandered city.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

the fertile country reaches nearly are after ocean starting. and gisr. the palm-trees crops.70 TILLAGE LIPS IN EGYPT. hand. the The were only the to no that disturbed stillness of of air of children the and clacking the slings. for name half-buried which by formed observing this of delightful one that the king (ifall cartouches do really contain the names . Haou. We where started we were on fourth day. and here vast of green isolated on groves either and The may there. which through to few of but halfe. by to if true. there or we fields corn. feet. with left behind. from we detained Some brought to evening dark a furious the contrary wind. morning pulling us after following place. and this followed . the numerous It is divided boundary about were -stones. Few were a we men. a stretches patches heaths. dry at* Here son. the into We told that all this fine land fellahs" plots. started ruins of Abydus. path be a or marking leads villages. until next and reached by and . A wheat feddan or is said of produce We six ardebs in excuse of the eight beans. compared lane. visit the rides to Bcllianch which to in ence obedi- the guide-books. were sparrows seen from the to crops. The here rocks an of the desert. used frighten youths. tall clover. palace. distance nearly from to perpendicular. Herons ichneumons paddy-birds darted the the across numerous several sounds shouts the path. in belongs villages. puzzled the ruined. ever It was one of the pleasantcst I have taken in Egypt. seawere crossed a shallow canals. search the of some tombs led to no result. barren generally of and through green of formed or by solid masses bean-plants. the their recede and Soon a immense river. excursion. as surprising could see fact.

pieces in order to be burnt for lime. a The which was formerly in course overtopped of magnificent to being chopped gateway. Monasto the place called the White We did not go direct. double in from it the was waist downwards. desecrated by time barbarism. walked and round there bustle We and the the walls. and vast much stone. and of are few. reached town was again Ekhto This from finely the situated beginning possibly general fright. tery. in order to complete the sense. From I have doubt made of its existence. but struck off in the first instance to the point of the hills to the south. another Souhadj we excursion of great interest. room effaced to make deserted" At Girgeh like Keneh. over the heaps of rubbish. " carefully. to here an visit some tombs there. open. 71 of -was kings) in some places clumsily. were The gorge the precipices . but. They city. of " extraordinary living the monster to be at this place a child. and rate. known intended exist ascend it. by the others remained that the when I ascertained additional words proposed could arrived seen never Letrorine. a We and to small to ruin at the foot of gorge. in others very for another. We have did not hear. But and obstacle on presented either side itself. an at Soflhadj. recover by north winds . we were detained mim. From no way which described. at length. namely. . until we existed.VILLAGE LITE IN EGYPT. had nished fur- its contingent were At any was some many of the shops in the streets. in search amongst traces the small detached of the ancient gardens. but The front line had as already seen disappeared by Pococke. The plain reached resembled a that of Abydus brick in appearance.

and there. of greater even force we could to if had We were a disposed to dispute their but to right no territory. some presently. sound one or guns. no just to know they would stand there and that if we kidnappers off their driving of the to was chance a of catching with in carry the our them a guard. of small grottoes in the one face with of the the generally seem communicating other. intention others resista rolled two down brandished a spears. the base fain of to proceed northward. insurgent sitting from fellahs. begged him to his friends. and of endeavored parley. donkey-load and of provisions direction compliments valley. clacking not preceded where us. shouted very bravely have made to I have doubt against brought they a would good than been we their position have to much bear. naked. like one crows At first they only stealing . Arabic nana inscriptions here and the words . their no saluting occasionally let us from slings. a We met black.72 TILLAGE LIFE IS EGYPT. armed spear. come quite on. purpose. very ugly pebbles were far from at The gentlemen rascal to ing slingover a and young and no advanced us spur. and. the we one fall of stood. They Some old to have been used occur as habitations. along line enormous perpendicular moved volley as we precipices. somewhat up In spite of the good folks. nonsense. to or recess another but a on advance of movement manifested Some very decided stones. themselves lofty making ledges an aloft. cut we threatening to a attitude line and of these climbed prodigious rock. occupied by fugitive " I was going showed along our to say. The us garrison overhead with that were a moved.

with a seemed preparing . still of antiquity It is lofty. massive the a narrowed additions from of a the dimensions a crude small brick court . slip form of desert built of solid between the masonry. without propylsea but portico. city of Athribis is supposed The on White wide Monastery. rocks stands and the the the body or plain. manuscript. In to neighborhood stood. and into built into opened *Here larger. quaint paintings us an and old The but priests seemed the .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. timid-looking but lingered as approached recognising us lers. ignorant could traces or of anything beyond present when stones we They some would tell nothing found built never of hieroglyphics or the into to the ramparts. 73 and of the ftrfva were written We in large were red warned that characters to in one the chambers. all now Of old entrances. we the centre more found this the usual hovels church. and on showed themselves nated illumi- perfectly time. so salute a shower slope. professed have . travelwere came forward into a to give welcome. in of fine than building the evidently but modern respectable fortress-like exterior. they are blocked a up except just or large enough to admit men us single person. and a gate again end . filled with Coptic inscriptions. several one. second this mud . about as Two we three . We admitted original dark by at passage. descend by were our announcement from and below the fellahs to growing retreat warlike. scattered about. In it resembles of an ancient Egyptian it had temple. of stones we seen made a regular with a bolt down the after having cut over tomb Greek this have inscription neatly the the doorway.

Mus- only or a few men women. the a wild pigeons. ary. be : in make January a and dish. to and returned Here surprise by and a across were fields direct we Souhadj-. we posture. boat. except of hares. industrious and an in spite of their deplorable. Febru- they rare perhaps. wild birds ducks we in which " very good a Many of the aquatic and reason an shot taste. observed small bearing the American flag. to ponds. much sport odious to be satisfied of with results in the in a culinary point or view. seasons There is prejudice against they with are in some it appears stewed It will. children. noticed that they state were inscribed. say should a tough onions. the and middle-aged were old the . to eating. of case our smell. for Christians. but birds and gourmands. ancient seldom. and probably so youths pelted of by the amongst from the in an troop of that had gallantly portion us rocks Athribis. overtook. few have here to the so subject but for I do following a a circumstance. . and portly- looking There even was gentleman something sitting solitary in his in front of his cabin. offer politely gisr there some declined the of coffee.74 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. that before could distinguish his features. saw seized small very lims. in descending. words omitted We charitable on to many of the tourists. uneasiness on They the seemed to be the in a of great subject of the conscription tax . managed eating. the A good ground front of monastery people is cultivated the Copts. in spite are now of additional like they We pay for exemption. invited sociability. had We very had the fish-like indeed. We ignorance bigotry. partridges. I have to already recommended last-mentioned them.

and and. my return from long his He was lively. names that Colonel travellers us " (it is meets hardly under print the of one circumstances) during his two assured months' that he on had the eaten nothing but tame journey dragoman Nile assured pigeons there was were broiled! no His had be was him that We that other provisions that mutton we to procured. 75 Two of our party. was impatient strong came reach him. moor on near make when happened went to hand. boiled a- graced procured our a table several piece from week. tea in persuading him to take with us. our a I found on installed a in the stroll. could . the evening Backwoods Mountains in chatting and and the the of the Mississippi of fhe the Tombs Libyan Kings. mutton we tender. have easily to of size hark. portico cabin. splendid all kinds. fourteen that times pounds or weight. the go-ahead before impulse us. the Rocky Desert. goat! a beef told a myth. at that had . at and him that Old Cairo in roast had hought excellent leg and of mutton. could Certainly. to and he nationality only us sufficiently that he had by he able. of beef to Luxor that be poultry of geese pullets. pleasant marked the the person. to at therefore advances at a " though " not we over-anxious. generally. being we soon within started succeeding a But alongside. tub humorously had the slowest of out Nile. traveller hoard to pay of was visit. Cairo. He rowed round his sluggard. complained the we travelled that in spite train. a place called the Mankabat. us But what amused fair to such most was. spent and pleasant Nile.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. agreein He told always fastest fastest the horse all and on America.

Cairo before Palmyra.76 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGTFT. into They gradually then for a soften short morasses. broiled he had The ventured is. got He course. the lowest. have awake bv cackling of geese. but means it filters through a the principally of very complicated lands are of canals. to reached so time that arrived. through remind a By vast the tion inunda- is distributed province. must of often he his sheep. on Provisions and a ably remarkseems cheap amazingly to our the to Nile. an price leaves which a small fellah. that find an go beyond and pigeons. persevering incredibly he was good again and of reached and in we Beni by an started work short in his slow coach. that as necessary to the * untravclled overflow that the Nile in rising does not its banks. It is perhaps reader. besides believe flocks by hares his of the ears. and for and other game. and in some places glisten . Mohammed. at most places. European good us profit the Our bade American us friend night thanked when we for information. night space on day . for these moist. of had blinded that the never interested calumnies to dragoman. the far where his way ! commencement Petra. The from rise is first felt in the the become at greatest distance river . or Lord knows At Souhadj canals is of the of its means one of the principal Egypt. and is required furnish to forth rough when good though it may be creditable to it when necessary.9 it is sometimes country system the expressed by . servant fact always to an intelligent honest whatever will ample a supply table of . could he been been so scarcely had kept seen though. to it is so just as a well live pretty it is possible are do at very trifling expense.

in or others the watered shadoof. " As long cultivation or vegetation existed and . Some to important be chronological from a conclusions examination are expected derived Nilotic not careful . takes at district with are . and of seen a section of the alluvium I have years strata even it stated. slowly moisture fields suck up the like a sponge. of the whilst sakieh. that it would a be very erroneous suppose Egypt takes plunge-bath will sometimes every year. cracked The are Deep holes. and These in some chiefly the to river's the are. artificially anything like water. . or bottoms. counted that the of of tian Egypdeposit as history left by be by the as succeeding a inundations. mer sum- but inundation. of the A very considerable crops is produced proportion. the to is reduced but of even palm-districts. be to distinctly the the the age trunk. to a Nearly state country. during change with into wells hard-baked and ponds. gratified a therewith. There the is no rush as of it water were. 77 time along oozes as shallow the surface the lakes. bury. up from ground. abandoned they are growth by means of halfe. but this is quite in most places. abnormal considerable tracts. any place all. if I do may mistake. and many are large tracks near never reached banks. on therefore. cases. An for extraordinary a inundation very occurrence brief an period. covering It is very of a rarely whole that deluge. Egyptian never on lands depend which for the their the mud inundation touches.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. labor. of tree may appears counted me by rings and of This as very bold unsound. and human which fertility whole " unremitting it is true.

examination. lead At has can any rate the river. beds of annually several deposited. liable careful astray. as its capricious sections as deviations. fertile mud. At any the plough effectually confused the this singular chronological to table. grass watery with have most probably " sprang stratum from would the very first thin be soil each necessarily rate. but works underground. perhaps I could many see no geologist of sign their places thick and this of any series layers as apparently remaining In . instead of and to kindly spreading. not. that I might the venture I should greater at say extent from beginning. in many at not. thin layer up. and. another. the next. to much in a old times having has the length a acquired turbulent that certain mastery. feet deep others. he the con Nile get year been very hand a friend. making or islands year and dispersing main out them or incorporating channel however. I have #himsclf said. ed blendmost its predecessors. fast as overflow all.78 VILLAGE LIFE IK EGYPT. mode convey alluvial it is in that some guess after to a the age hut of if Egypt. the created. in black . . the Ghost in Hamlet. them with working he as the land. mould on reddish having clay any a . others. shaken an tumbled of and tossed resemblance down. of whenever upper year. in some in original were masses position. all imaginable land he has historical one record. without scientific positive and man knowledge opinion. a made require. of sand. a subject. has bounds cases to his does activity . set filling In course up his old and of own time. properly as speaking. been Perhaps merely a expression I allude intending at may to have figure may of be speech. if. . than now. he has out by about.

to At any find willing however. diverted our As glided rapidly of crowds were another episode conscriptio attention. The rock mountain Sheikh river.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. talk render knowingly us the subject to This did not. whilst were soldiers kept watch They . we leaving bold down the and towards object. Hereedi North is and a huge south it a mass of vast overhanging of two semicircles conspicuous it hills sweep back. stream. The better story known rate. from Souhadj. The Serpent " of Sheikh' Hereedi " " Episode Ascent of " of the Conscription " " The Rock View Tombs and for " of fiereedi Huge Coptic " Convent Curious the Mountain in of of Expanding of Quarry them " " Fascination of " Proceed search " the " Beach Sloughs Idiots Serpents Worldly Hunting " " Genesis Wants " Saints " Living Remedy Dead Sanctity " Sacred Novel of Sheikhs a ility Ster- a Species the of Catching wild " Saint " Mocking Mendicancy" Disposition Fellahs Effect at Living of Holiness suspected Tombs" Righteous Fellah Beneficial " Death" Sheikhs' Decorator " Rites performed " Tombs" Alms-giving "Tillage "Sacrifice " Rag-offerings Desert-Tombs Sheikh Abderrahman of Raeineh. on of to we the serpent of Sheikh it is to any one Hereedi the seems travellers did not than Egyptians. towing several said to huge against over the them. to Two of men and two lads. stop at and gave orders accordingly the first practicable of the pathway. harnessed boats long track-ropes. less desirous visit the we tomb of the Sheikh and to its neighborhood. 79 CHAPTER K.

out from quarry of mighty are no dimensions. on principally a lofty front wall. the of several We quarries tombs. Perhaps there such things to be seen in any . inhabited path and by there were little cells. be conscripts to rejected work. we by others. though in reality joined from or by to narrow neck. watching this unpleasant The " mass near seems of that rock in that approaches time the nearest the no river so inundation from there rest is pathway mountain it is left by on " separated cleft or of the a vast a ravine. and or The inner lateral chambers walls abutted consisted rock behind. remains convent tombs.VILLAGE LIFE IH EGYPT. we The climbed along steep every slope. probably to of yore led up hermits a averse climbing. see Along some slopes of the like distant black could of squatting scene. point a of of a large ing buildIt the of consisted crude brick. climbing partly where over a the mud trees mountain recedes little. and at with one the of quarries. and sent back to their villages the them and be replaced hills crows. Coptic of a old times. built edge on of the terrace platform. step on which by an slowly. prospect rewarded over at ever-widening side excess the fertile plain hills" them. of the shaded by Here precipice. a moored alongside a maize-field. upper a the other the we of the of to river light a to the dim Libyan round in the dim from that glowed of to At length of of a came kind dent rest outline series the vast rock. and in base a wall running found ourselves along the lane. Its face mouths are is pierced almost or top caves bottom . at Siout. windows and paused in the just below looking precipice.

any a spring stream to hurries could thousand the a destruction happiness. from enjoy new jutting rocks the As we us. the fatal desire impressions. entered and we the in behind Nile. windows with watch cockleshell unreservedly the serpentine boat progress of the justvisible beneath our feet. however repress exerted. existence of hermit retired such But air and as soon as we came we out again once into the more bracing sting the golden light. of the dim or aisles. of us power. one may palaces the of Arabs the imagine people over it to have of the We of giant old . felt to the see new of curiosity and the view . by with pillars top of the as an mountain ordinary been roof. This quarry and forms a chamber the as hundred feet in depth for a length. be the dry of a cataract. live for secluded as world. supported Well the as big house. to things ravine.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGTPT. closed know. at its construction. indulged the not traces one in the admiration which . and floor. the Nile. Far down . occasional stood upon the vast glimpses sills of of below. and as magnificence that any if it were miseries turbid one impossible of longing desire the splendid into the for civilized that life. 81 other several part of the world. be At such by it mere seems if all desires of the could prospect for to to satisfied . 11. the as they creep in the the like insects might we expended caught. a disturb to contemplative cell. so shut out valley of the that at found summit ourselves of what surrounded with to horrid crags bed the appeared vol. at wonder. the create and to of our could in from momentary desire and times the take ever up abode this deserted the habitation. extremity rich plain to our ourselves.

no to of Hereedi. to of persons for generation is from his solid reputation a sanctity in Egypt very time Scarcely a village who fails to utterly a produce displaces of time holy man. distinguish the Sheikh's was tomb the sunshine.83 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. in a little open glittering we space in we could. In where the we recesses of rock sloughs us. believe eyes. begged not touch garments. with visit mats. in every The acquire great. and well. after gathered contrives death. the Arabs who accompanied of the whilst which of the professing attributes know to nothing the tradition crawling to guardian-demons these cast-off place. but to cures us found the of serpents. hut bottom of a effected of rocky rather other. cessor. Sheikh covered recent The is said belong open. tribute attract during to his tomb to empty some homage other his At length to wise piety. found the kind or The one tomb. however. The descent ourselves at difficult. The but doors there off our the floors of any signs We took the shoes natural and entered. may be prudent . of poor barbarians. the tombs. prederespect and having lifetime. opposite are recesses the partially shaded with couple of built sant-trees. individual. little chambers of the son domed smaller roofs one against to were were the rock. It is curious that the carefully slough that the a fellahs of Upper for Egypt sore of serpent is good and preserve number a any they may who find. for there by a are two. it. and the profits of of his example thus the succession imbecility in the eyes more objects these veneration a is kept up. were crevices. Sheer respect is sometimes sufficient title to who. follows of having awakened .

as them. be content be well dressed lilies of the toil as field. several frightened who into premature to maternity men endeavored catch it of were a severely wounded. their anything be a palaces. the in Alexandria. and fields. but and impart their heirs the then only they the vouchsafe little advice. It of reported in a district animal towards " the north a the Delta. and too. sacred has not idiots of Egypt. trust to But considered of a decorous the intercession near man. battue. although gate. sacred influence which who were emanates persons. and allowed spend Now oftener from lives in of contemplative a beatitude. and of may be instinctively too aware of The inconvenience having who saints clever. pious say. of At villages. provided required go neither about nor to spin. Some old to husbands resort to in want of used of them for assistance. 89 than the we think them. damage this thing the crops. to is to fed state in idleness. women.TILLAGE LIFE IK EGYPT. dead saint . great out number with turned for a regular quarry succeeded in discoverin their sunk up the middle in a . before Many the of fall. cells are naked but Adam Their indeed. did mighty who met monkey huge stature was abroad. All they require. deputies. Many were in the . indeed. employed to receiving visits of anxious was once be mothers. a the Rosetta several there is cell where they wives holy with in is constantly. length armed and to the population naboots. of to that a strange " some said. They the to but exacting hardly they them. to and the to even a fellahs have many it is now ludicrous stories more relate on subject. been in so often affect the are are folly which moderately to vouchsafed their claims.

morass. the nearest village. time Its agility it contrived to tremendous. of course. long to evade the grasp at of who endeavored nahoots seize stones. because . carefully disposition as a barred. the Prophet. came They forth and pelted took to it with the open clods of earth until gave it fields. description Shereefs. a a The man monster covered hair. and human to their a astonishment it being. resemhled and for those in form. hy throwing to was and excited fellahs found managed that disable really some a it. mad- escaped from finish distant work At so was. and a man been has found several to be times Mekka as is regarded as suspicious have character. it However. or made far less of descendants essentially visited In Egypt. and they him in cell. that elsewhere. a suggested that the perhaps. first they intended but some to one the they well begun. and They bleeding put a accordingly as carried to him he a was. and the the whole population has suffered from insolence . that are live saints and holy than men of dead have who a every ones. had man raving man. in triumph. when was they with was furious hut chase. marketable men covered dis- holiness is a article . his faith in the and Lord Mohammed. any moment of everything the deen. except. The truth is. at he ever manifested afterwards mischievous he was times honored Sheikh the of the first order. were it is true the amuse no boys and girls of by village often . village. great bruised where saint. allowed fellah to themselves real veneration and to tormenting in fun " him for the and has to his character. of rogues. at is ready satirize he pretends make respect abstract.84 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. the last.

successively few cases. and surround it an atmosphere respect. joyful one a legatees. 85 righteous derweesh mendicancy. a The tombs generally high. to soliciting can a subscription. short these remain holy only comparatively to time. and few gaudily acacias of to to paint it. once ships. wives " unauthorized apt to bestowed their too " relish like the blessings of these stalwart to ascetics build and. recognis the or a tones of a friar begging for his society who member of The church-building fellahs. Sheikh as a figure a themselves live by a saint when and the sturdy beggar from joined the hyphen of which . authoritatively In listening to a wandering demanding a alms. forget meat. and indeed of in some are elsewhere. attributed however.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. at of Ahmed-el-Bedawee for there are numerous Tanta. in but I remember the work seeing fellah engaged of to decoration. and depths used to alternate is turned of blessings up. or consist a square chamber. and always white. to a various Sheikhs. a As I have said. therefore. club together for the departed and cleanly plant a to whitewash or a it. tomb. cenotaphs this the Sheikh country scattered up and of down. ochre of covered representations and artist no in red camels. He had models. they and imprecations the the roll forth. a other objects. almost forced whisked off their on contributions bread of the mantle by very a whirlwind prayers and menaces caresses from shoulders. eight feet with small with cupola rude above. In down Seyid celebrity as is handed in that from generation generation. and sycamore with tombs or some are shade it. flowers. I have convent. ciate apprea disinterestedness. trusted entirely . but forest-beard.

use even professedly for the by of his in reality. and well be fattened. popularag tombs It is other customary the trees of the and " objects a that overhang worship probably widely remnant of the fetish formerly so prevalent to in Africa. also to is attended to by tie the pieces whole tion. sufficient The always public if there materials.86 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. it. in which to The ceased respect be is paid to a Sheikh and women who has death some troublesome. is simple the priate. and indicate . holifor position pieces. appro- On a fixed day in the week which strew and a few men visit the the village. particular allowed until to of a wish. is the at a period pasture and freely marked victim lands often all the feast is of village . few tomb. lamb. little oval all or of are loose many of which called Marabuts. is generally palm-leaves or little apart upon from or and flowers around a They loaves also of place or in some ous conspicufive-fuddah buried ness. that as I ought with add. his other. often but that bread. up. very general the place agreement. or of the whether of travellers. . winking all the alternately. is the stones with high. the on goat. the so fertile country desert about is covered dotted breast white-domed enclosures tombs. poor. his memory or imagination and bent . either or in order merely make a obtain general to or accomplishment for their animal. out of vows solicitude some spiritual a welfare. calf. of a and of performing genius under form by in fact manoeuvres man observation. The pagan custom of sacrifice to is also the kept Pious persons. and every first to eyes now one and side then and stepped then to back the his head. a sacrifice a sheep.

and propylaea. every with of which sides " is crowned so lofty inclined mass that village ike a confused our of we diminutive . is surrounded height. ombstone. Next day we arrived Siout . by the composed a of cote. started reached at Aboutij in he evening. dovelooks ouses. Siwah. of he Arab's my Tower. of Sheikh " Hereedi for these places by a are sometimes steep inhabited until e still descended out narrow fissure. or by square with a all of On leaving " rather cell. the tomb. ing Return- to boat. distance it in the west he Mediterranean.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. court. Sheikh some The elebrated coast of of these the is that of Abderrahman. we ame behind one the village of Raeineh. 87 he last resting-place for the scene of of holy their men who had chosen the most on desert operations. 1 have mentioned a account or f visit to and some It has regular a tarkeebeh.

swaying his good much pleasure the good from come pleasure the in be of a Turk of without interference only the taxes complaints authorities Cairo. to " ernor. its Governor " " Ismain " Pasha Moyeh " Respect of Strength Beautiful among Approach " uncivilised from Races Site of A at true Siout the Souhadj" Government the the " River " Eastern " City Basar " " Offices " Dismal of Siout" and 8treets tian Egyp- Children Play " the Visit " Bath Magnates bis Bathers An odd Rarity of Baths Visit the Barber *. although There holds it may the be on its threshold. Information View from " News" Mouth" Old Gentleman" " to the Great Wish to Cave" " its Wolf-mummies " Yom Allah " " Master Donkey-boys Eye " Backsheesh " Cemetery " of Siout " Pleasing Scene " the Trees The Two Lovers Gabaneh " Ghebel-el-Koflra for Hyaenas " The " Grave-Diggers A } their Bone of " various Avocations Traps " Vultures Mysterious " van Caraof " Encampment Darfuris of " Tents of Bedawins " Line Route the The Caravan Prison " " Policy A the Darfur Government in Facoglu " Trade Permanent with Dongola Convict's Ketch " Experiences Punishment Truth Gallows " " tian Egypas " Jack means of Death " " The Tanzimat Arrests not Torture of a of extorting " . according and his court . cited croc- pride admiration his exploits against . Govpetty " Turk. provided and no in reasonable made particular Pasha. CHAPTER X. exacting. resides. Stoat . and the against him. time. Siout said to is the stand always capital only a of the Said. instances of Wholesale Servants Soldier-police to be Imitation France " Whoever found Innocent supposed Guilty.88 TILLAGE LIFE IN SGTFT. looked was fellahs and up him with respect. violent to Ismain and who and lately yet with the held this office.

89 odiles of El-Akraat. and leave the narrow space the south. villages. the water Moyeh early between Souhadj. perfectly to ready.. not. meadows round be seen Numerous the gardens cluster to the city. excited.' that oppressed with either its sickening The low fields on hand. races or are marvellously indulgent whatever way courage. in the it and in a drying into detached streaks season. what 'Tis they poor pitiful. principally bearing us of various species. but Men understand devils. called of the foot projection of A up the shallow Libyan canal. passes desert. to Uncivilized vigor and . admire we a it must confessed awe that a regarded respectful have most which just ruler 'tis . honey-combed catacombs. in spite was of the inexorable by the of his government. the or of throw heroic halo a round throne first successful endeavors to ventur ad- who an conquers filch empire. personally be hated On the contrary. him with perhaps. are ever dexterity. range. still . receding two semicircular to for with magnificent groves. shaded avenue of of trees. that demigods who oppress to them suppose. space the hills. prone with a in displayed those be a and to exalt into hand. ' some them the flower sweet called smell* fotn. would true. plains develope and themselves. allowing in the led us der slen- minarets sparkling El-Hamra ineffably a clear air. through North form. every let one best us and before sure an condemn that we are these not be us. The at city of of a Siout bold with stands about a mile from the river. they Mohammed Ali. only their fields. strong It would mistake for example.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. The road by from an along winding acacias yellow gisr. cruelty fellahs.

or streaming. or a tomb " " defunct distant The sanctity groves. slumbers. A massive of by foliage a led to the gate. as thorny-mimosa branches As last city are we approached. after the they the breeze inundation.90 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. they though and were perpetuall the shifting winding railroad return to fro in the Along look by of tree-shaded causeways embankments converted into " that like a love-lanes groups of were the Arcadian leisurely on dispensation dusty Be- fellahs dawins. wooded broke into long silent a or vistas kiosque. and spirits live undisturbed in wells. where Efreets beautiful archway disguised woodmen. with a raised threshold formed palm-tree. sweltering lake. no and now vultures. their became there bigger herons some to eye than Here solitary beaks in admiring wise-looking muddy-shored that barked " pool. " restless paddy-birds since white ibises. was honored they loomed to through float. or taking at we aim at the foolish of white " frogs insolently why may are. camels or sleepy-eyed nodding hoisted which their rough and towards lebek the brushing alone of leaf-laden kept off. that swooped until almost they and cork-screwed the were upwards. the it seemed really of our if we had " at discovered where Eastern are city dreams the barbers of kings philosophers. them. sky with and within kites. not not Flights call them ibises ? plain. and may pastry-cooks safely come the sons as . spread into waves like of a green which until ruffled up changing in hue. reach. not the rest where speckled now seemed hawks. the that distance. . of at Here in the eve was and sultry there noon hinted siestas balmy dreamy where meditations living or . larks.

tomb quiet. space. special Beyond shaded narrow ready open . gliding only stealthily know on door. of spindle-shanked. and then or But see a in Siout you content to muffled female from what form door errand crouching to terrace. with houses no all turned^ it back swarms outwards. gathered or the hour through twilight room. and Most showing inhospitable country mere sign and towns. the sallow Coptic windows out " looking rows unglazed men latticed of armed otherwise. a The dead loop* do not for the slips between of and high-placed then. Egyptian part. of lanes. else as Nas Kotta that the Moudrias. and government through naboot or offices. blazing fire. walls. 91 opening houses through not to walls. at round-bellied mysterious the game There of the of Hengkis Benghis. or a she and her gossips group children. and do the bidding with this as a a of white power. the imagi- A street. of these most churlish is the streets aspect are. dispersed engaged must in be domestic now on a avocations. was a sitting withto constables. by a sycamore beyond labyrinth were. of the life that within. commanded by see series now a If you whether or a an eye you know it is that robber of houri. over which " crowd to view great white secret be explored and this is the " of the strange impression produced but by nation. institution is nothing to tell you family " the simplest form of . humming are crowd the filled the first short-roofed with where clerks . other about to to you. regions some it is possible not too catch at times glimpse of a through quiet round closely curtained at window of the family a party. take a languishing shot at a and In love-sick. holes. playing in a corner blear-eyed. .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

submitting they back. a scalding bather the all the go to to honum of Egyptian as not race of nor Pharaoh not all Frenchmen cafes. and the rubbed. ludistilts.92 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. palm enjoying the to titillation from head. lathered. donkeys. society is now grandiloquently called " has any ence. tarbooshes. as real Arabian as a Night's Chinese We where much out of place in the went high to street of an English be and " provincial and capital. for faskiyeh. going takyehs. exist- But street. they lay like a porpoises gentle or razor. human we are bee-hive. in company respectabilities gentlemen. stream a swearing. " and perhaps to woman girl per moving slowly and fro. a bustling. stopping. camels. variegated buzzing. of worship. to hairy. a and libdehs. swinging full before the doors and the shops of merchandise respectable balconied Taggers courts men " . with the and bath to sweated. a Siout who brown-skinned. with offerings. " of a place real bath. with archways leading with or into of crazy wakalahs one . on. as them it is evident the the slushed horny and that. admirable put and upon crous. operation bellied potwith submitted at once the gravity and sedateness presence. we turn at length into from vowed the Sookh. hustling. of turbans. we Englishmen to From Cairo Siout had . bazar. mastabah mastabah. what which and of bath the were servant. with Makhtas . the bathe. to a covered full three little model seen feet wide ships. summum all. with like those sometimes in Catholic of the places mosques. about Our but on perhaps. breast cunning " felt important possessed above people a they citizens hararah. cent. of soused. benches. scraped.

came us. kneaded. came hundred heard. with The hugely chin. was on a sagacious which he as fellow. doubtless wrapped soaking sheet. ? " Where is the country are come from that he where. went his ' murmured was soliloquy : Fain. fain . Man- faloot. 93 not found one of now these luxurious establishments not . deprived which of and washes by other cold. baths. where . mighty as was mosques. gentleman. the greedy hot. is of Queen other Liberty interesting regions " to A about variety the could facts buzzing head habited uninnot of this shaver's . you to enter on where " ? Where the We ships thought brought wanted he ? where. where ? ' into with ? he conversatio but on our ' speaking. had down. whose assistance with never we requested. who sat by coaxing been in a lawingee. fortunate barber. sea the that " English the down were in ships. whilst a being one if for dough. but It had we evident that he knew perfectly with the well vast been suddenly impressed distance . had three heard hundred hundred palaces. rule were over being them. Siout. boasted seventeen his He that had felt the and had at travelled Cairo were far five two as Manfaloot. for and and opposite in our looked he with simple ment astonish' faces.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. but we stay we to were hear all his stories. where. hairs razor. Muscovites flies in to Egypt the hyperbolical natives " " barber ! This had said chosen astonish that the French Sultanah Horeeyeh which. having been its bath one Girgeh are and alone Keneh. you At length murmured. to as In the ante-chamber. river. and that He to as had the numerous likewise. equally place. interpreted. I believe. old hours.

who of there. searchers everywhere. but all choked. temple. scorpions that are broke found in search . to and fro and when in left. he and still rocking in where we or himself and his sheet. gazed the plain river its islands of palm-groves. goes. them floor. visited. stones the mouth of the the whilst discussing openings bright the there. in recent far more as all experience industrious than treasure-seekers after been truth. that unsophisticated. which side of the hill above the wandering through in so its vast halls. ' his ? ' philosophical ing inquir- mood. showing its shiny who here A scare-crow donkey-boy tastes with being some learned grinning in the of travellers. it was sin to violate sleep . scales was and and us. which descend zig-zagging. and of course. During cavernous our first stay. read. Where. but of the more often another. gathered. murmuring. No but one as explored them. to search which countrymen supposed be unpoetical impressions. understand the ? A Here stratum dirt and openings rubbish that encumbers and slant downwards they seems are tell of further ranean subterone chambers . I believe. must we have travelled was to come to that place. city . the yawns great in the tomb. Little else The but however.94 TILLAGE LIFE III EGYPT. of " enjoyed our those impressions " of grandeur. saying. the ad visibility of exploring the thousand we other on in the green serpent face of with mountain. sombre but covered. and brought them therein up out wolf-mummies. at historical and have down left their traces on some Sitting cave. times have . walls can are travel thousands can of be miles. to except in the inner has room. a reproached the last him. palace. who can loaded with inscriptions.

a dead should dog.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. are totally misunderstanding to usages do ning beginfor the due refuse. phenomenon among donkey-boys. and have impression the had descended rugged to ing leavthe bridge Water. tombs. named ( Yom Tolbeh. character. breaking in here common and there upon its long perspective. call her that if her that a desire name. of poking diminished away we amidst a succession of dusty would we the smoothed received. It is difficult to The houses. imagine are softly pleasing little which domed really and elegant white and a with roofs by arched doorways. The . only temporarily at but if I remember in the the aright. scene. which they after on a hard get themselves or placed level ruffianly Arnaouts bulliragging Greeks. gratified was would effeminate child by He of a mild. receipts backsheesh. even both to of the beasts and left in peace Day lad was of Judgment. 95 even of men.' because made was a mother had the longed son. the city. Instead tombs. form perfect street. dation. the over Souhadj cemetery of the entered long narrow which mountains has been the established extreme a between the the base and limit more of inun. a Little imagine custom that makes sake of a penny day's with present. country. gardens surrounded with masses scollop-edged of trees walls. the he was engaged Donkey-boys for themselves. for a Allah the ' !) had This scrupulous his covenant Wish. leading to our back right. work. be and that corpses. the proportions the of of which grandeur hill. business. Siout over get and one-third above the of usual which of they the travellers. and with she Almighty.

or in the above. in .' tribe. go up Among into the other things. as In if it one of the whisper. a having reduced heap are of black kept cinders. over giant . a " fellahs. and at carried sometimes shawls a found and distance. cemetery The that the is called it Ghebel Gabaneh. and announces han time they mountains a traps for the hysenas. el and " the mountain of a overlooks Koffra men the 'Mountain to Grave-diggers. leaved. office. not the cupidity of body-snatching always successful corpses. which These has are said time form peculiar among lived caves from immemorial Their of the the tombs. in Siout. of it seems.96 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and of they bell when the forthwith beat unfortunate brutes . all thinthe cluster cannot conceal domes shade beyond. not prudery. and protect handsome grave-clothes sometimes from not. and the same cell. countries and as the sexes women's tombs as are preserved from profane eyes scrupulously the harem. asunder even In in Muslim death. the mimosa into the road gummifera. in order in Hamad set to The eke out Koffra their variety living. by the side a by side. groves that sycamore the side in a the fotneh. are are trustworthy . lovers been buried. perhaps away They they entire. had even were some unnatural crime. besides people order used are that of of to preparing is to the the keep last watch homes night worthy day. stripped their rich pursue embroidered of avocations anteries. and spreads its solid palm rear the lebek by and the their tombs contrasted we were forms told two side. acacia. game is The caught tinkling . them separated by been tion partiof to Oriental represented speaking as mouth Tolbeh.

leathern mantles spread the across. formed with by two or heaps blankets of bales. is the grave-ground it a Beyond of the the fashionable cemetery poor. resting every yards. at went away flights. The looked Darfuris. and A were good Bedawin here not tents. of senna. but. the round the various amusement villages of of district. at us and surly. to exhibit for the the fellahs. never property being ever of swimming killed. (December) the but much their still a on reduced masters. opinion respected one by the It is no one that " of their which against strange We caravan has the bone came the stream extraordinary . encampment arrived two length of the from and was Darfur. as admirably well perhaps are office as scavengers they . numbers. in had Most to of slaves.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. this few been the has at yet to found. the escort. 97 into humility. the chief part of those had lodgings in lived in little sheds camel-bags. especially black askance. The usual time occupied in performing . city them and the and then take them. declined many talk. bones " have their popular knows fathers. At of perform this. I covering of any sprinkled they departed the Muslim. VOL. muzzled. ground. The at fatness us of these loathsome eyes to me creatures. there heaps with was gone on Cairo. As we clattered or through vultures. that looked with epicure from of the beneath suspicious thin their bald. good the to deal of merchandise. and for eaten a because may fellahs. when over seemed remembered the origin. wrinkled scalps. belonging but town or to scattered who and there. especially earth rate. ten number of in huge short unwieldy rakhams. II. now It had months back.

as Their object even is to isolate than country possible. disposition closed this of Egypt. dynasty the an additional security the the ambitious of Gavalia. which exported considerable quantity of dhourra.because least against has at they anticipate as at conquest. have. Sultan of by the no declared and himself most humble . the and tedious compelling and to adopt exclusively dangerous their their an route as from much Siout. a namely. across Formerly desert was much expeditious route the province open. means voluntarily the pays tribute in he all has the raised of quarantine which are upper provinces Dongola market. the Egyptian from the empire placed. we and in number melancholy-looking who they front told of that it. that time in the prison. from Dongola. the prophet an for stealing of Daniel man. had crime. and still suffers loss of its only profitable During saw a our first visit of we passed by the men prison. they at On were asking the might a were fathers confined but of number of young and the to conscripts. the one present to use route. sitting be. forbidding it on pain of death. in Alexandria. but servant Porte. were intended relations that for of Fazoglu.96 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. But the Darfur government. come back honest account having gave his Sad was the he of . I on once man who had a performed book from He expiated journey mosque compulsion. Lately. journey by the from oasis Siout of to Darfur is two months. more national attempt tradition justify. criminals probably for saw they destined transportation a abhorred the the region. a passing more El-Khargeh. fearing within any commerce the encroaching century.

he said. terrible condemnation to of system. Essouan. Society seems delighted find a scape-goat already for the alluded. people of corn he said. behind is a its intervals of leisure. the instrument low. children. in speaking of the I have to " Tanzimat. no after to passing got. may reason nevertheless may be. The gallows neck pillory for by a corpse. Ketch. something wolfish to eyes were glaring for devour. an regarded and that very excellent citizen. absolute I have and but my doubts about the expediency of the unconditional abolition that of the the punishment of death and . the and that can well be fitted to produce in all listeners Soon bread " morality inspired there by was fear. to This description more particularly may be correct are applied.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. not Fazogki to itself. 99 hi* adventures. up. with the man East. rope for stick. who likely be very tenderly " A stands permanent in an gallowsopen and space horrid walls to object " outside in the south of the at city. play bo-peep in Egypt the worm-eaten timbers. in whips the It is to be it may inspires or observed the of John terror though invest no its incumbent . the of justice excites is a all high without exception. in Egypt to the difficult question out of capital punishments useless pointing that it is almost interdict . and the if restricted to convict treated. a disgust a and a who old off and a head breaks neck with be piece of as. enough. I must confess humble and abhorrence hatred in which classes. the criminal's before office being always broken the executioner that he is slung. grim and the miners. be ate maize found soaked in ever in water frequently grains their the excrements of round beasts. sin it commits.

he in his denial.) a a man case has my bery. go to It is pleasant this extremity. by the Europeans. of those I may who here fact. rob- knowledge. to it is the every-day of guilt elicit confessions supposed one criminals. with say. Pasha's There Wakeels. addition to to sometimes of there relatives to : and dealt is to or is sent the Pashagah's. ! naively he might falsely accused If the " a robbery to accuse take place the in a European at house. ought actually a finger after let of this him each for considerable persisted observing. so. admit that few experience . it is habit servants. that they be go maimed. least are a of complicity far honester ment. stoutly under suspicion was of the asserting where his innocence. if anywhere. and terrible ordeal. be according to the once custom or of twice the country that week be beaten a-day for to a until they native cry masters peccavi. in city to of act Alexandria. that charged be and unjustlywith to in order application year they of might stick made other plead means. stick seems to death perish me as long the as the or naboot To to by cord to perish the all one. hand European hung up time influence by .100 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. guilty the This come very to in which 1 write. except insist on that the second for the is more painful. formal system by the condemnations is tolerated. in benefit that still talk of rule from to civilization apply torture Egypt. establish- though their in general fellows the this class of " men than in Europe and whole with friends. for applied gravely very English six sailors. in which (1852. one as. by is a famous pompously instance in which Minister to of the styled of the Foreign Affairs late Consumurder.

of I knew discharged. papers. but this " horrid circumstance also its sanction the same in : Europe for some I mean in six Paris. must to suppose that who is arrested is degraded guilty. As when or in France. or bayonets. c'etait la consigner . that servants are generallywithout to suspected unjustly. previous rack every surmise. was trifling shot the offence. some obstreperous very chiffonnier. seen. upon persons. caricature group as I am reminded the of in the not exaggerated There be with the . choosing by his to run deliberately as down guard. it read its circumstance morning shrugged shoulders. sometimes beat a of they of savages in uniform may to drag their a prisoner as along. Ma foi. a is thing for there. a him butt-ends guns. the often a taking our his possible vengeance beforehand. charged plaintiff is as ' personal there. 101 having perhaps taught them However. preliminary be a punishment and or if even the a quency delindebt. indeed. of system Alexandria. go the army into police see and I along the streets of Paris. be a beat and suspected one and. in the ' and Public Opinion. examination. . not months person arrested away.' bourgeois Abu-1his Abbas. it is the simple rule. which ago. and with four fixed five fierce-looking drunken chasseurs tramper escorting. security he against would be 'but the caprices quoth a of justice. and said. A man had to killed in has attempting escape. and a I had out was the his once satisfaction eye !' of breaking who teeth stolen knocking melon. outrage.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

accordingly. rocks long the series south of cave-entrances in the We face of the to of the city. them.) leaving desert slope. distance excavated. plain (at and at Siout a within extent mile. resolved. canal. " Approach Mlnieh " Object of Travelling In descending both the the river naked towards eye and Siout the we had serve oba with telescope. distance the in which are innumerable and came of the ancient Lycopolis Dronka. to village a of By from this the a time the rocks had they receded reach great a river. Yisit to the on Caves Face of Dronka " Recruiters " again " " Coptic Wolf " Cemetery Ancient " " vents Con- the of the " Rock Vast Quarry " A Hermitage Emme Bey at " Crushed Ride to " Chapel Mankabat Giant " Beehives " Unfinished Indolent Excavation " Keerawans " Sportsman of " Market-day " Manfaloot reading Tel-el-Amarna " Local Modifications Religion " Difficulty Flippancy" of Hieroglyphics of Reason Reasons of presumed " Failure to a French " Failure Philologists of " Jumping Conclusion " Hasty cism"Tom Criti- Sheikh Drainage Seid " " Dead exiled Saint's Servants " Sheikh of Rauda " AbAden" " Ancient Labor " Coins Mode " An " Courtier System " Tillage Forced " of Payment " Truck " Ashmounein to Watchman Life " Discharged timid " Soldier Mode Army Life " " Punctuality on Aversion " Military " Fellahs " of carrying is a Quarrel Magical Hassan Tain Effect Threats of Brutality French Antiquities Reason why the disliked of Beni " " Pay" Dislike " of Military blowers Tombs " Art of viewing " GlassEvening Catacombs to Impertinence Moonlight " of Tourists Arab Scrawls in Egypt. of the we to visit and examine for some Crossing along the the base tombs ceeded promountains. vast considerable mouths of As usual. the of the ravines . CHAPTER XI.102 VILLAGE LIFE IK EGTPT.

We a kept minute near the of the for our cultivated return.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.pillars . formed like pretty. not gradually precipice. the buildings. but at of the I went prevented the far me I point darkness from saw proceeding. On It hill a vast which I visited. look immense a arranged and line squares a chess-board. of portico Near some in front. engaged brethren is a in agreeable process starving their into submission. a At winding abrupt water length reached to as considerable but once was ravine. With gulleys. on near it the that are The of small the oblong some and black. terminating been a a in an if there the had beyond fall of cave. there and an neat Beyond from with the village base is of precipices. there. the plain. doubtful watching of our progress very attentively. usual. monastery. all the caves of them were very to large face crude brick rock. white. rounded some top. bricks. rock. reserving the exception exploration an of gulleys. edge up innumerable land. apparently were clinging Coptic or the of the These doors our inhabited two convents. wolf cross a As patch I wandered of along no aisles. in was quarry roof " perhaps as the most extensive Egypt cut one " the out supported. 103 we saw crowds of patient fugitives here sitting there on the out lookplain for their below with were enemies. At cemetery Dronka of at Coptic people. men as round of which three lingered. doubt in state of great . as by as immense could see . a I a light. stationed and and in the equally patient the recruiters armed of naboots. if peaceable we intentions. cut the of which descends long slope. were on excavation a at the bottom of one of the having the same kind line. and tombs.

other colonies hives rock. but own been for removal by their it is more that they fallen foot of weight. their habitation of wild the bees. to the We entrances all the and the visited exactly therefore. face quarries At of the this point rock. but any dent. and been a partially inhabited covered by a with They had hermit. the were in one succession The former described. a have been some intended small for niches. to found summit cayes traces staircase leading up in a nearly series the of the rock. chambers. space 'established nests were Their of the a built against only two surface projecting perhaps twenty or feet. we Returning of a the the ravine. The some resembled that were I have already smaller. and instance rock of very chapel vast mass fitted up the in yore. Near namely. except convents they built somewhat against in in the one entrance of a of large these excavations had of been stone . of that size have to I at first thought . that came passed through by our the thousands out. indignation quarry and at a being disturbed. but it to a had were fallen and crushed us atoms. temple or a tomb. . It terminated artificial probably commences of small and stucco. we About saw it an are in one of which ugly . is unfinished. acci- The a excavation with six I have mentioned as being and faced may by portico pillars. The people civil. the leading convents. if disturbed without voices. to ledge along of them. with some uneasiness. buf covering We as thirty feet in diameter. At some the entrance of feet they the is line of twenty long. had able prob- about cut fifteen feet high. and offered were or arraki.104 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. vast stones.

the trace hieroglyphic. Emme Bey. Taking boat. fishy every worthless now and bring down some ducks fortune ghatteys. not During a the whole of this or excursion see we did of an discover single We inscription returned. French boats governor are avenue of the little oasis a of Farafrah.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. Among of to Waladieh be shot keerawans. to our however. ruined I waited time the on in the nothing summer-house. gun across Reclining his knees. which are proved gates. namely. Turk various from which aim season the kinds of water-fowl. we told ride our reis on' to go round to Mankabat. This village. 105 statue. wealthy at as built kubbeh. cormorants but pool sly attracted but huge other we and a few ducks that kept on the side. may but be has well pleased. by a The moored of along trees. On elevation was one the ponds dome*d by take some in its neighborhood summer-house. formerly little used to we as an would ambush say. The a especially and some first half. through the acacias succession of gardens we groves. on which in with the pipe repair and watch thither. a called often the port of Siout. proceeded there we to went Beni Mahommed. sluice- excellent by eating. It is small tingui dis- inhabitant. the At Mankabat of water large which supply an is regulated above a during of or the inundation. and all the . from the cushions. bank shaded handsome On leaving Siout. to and having It was spent a morning when down Manfaloot paths market-day arrived. to thither the donkeys. the one boat at El-Hamra. the lazy in hand- man sports- used and or to now his prey then arched some windows. road is resolving pleasant.

and. that in to in their off told of village far the the fellahs. defending themselves in guns and which ruins. forth me terminate in hands. of which it is from in language they . painful even the reconstr broken set of language we we know. out mounted best. symbolic The inscriptions if they as that would could be taken explain read. derive information to And " yet hieroglyphists to contradictory all plain written . from be difficulty subject. are tions. interesting brick main a reached still the more next day. are and of interesting on tombs. instead by with flying the hills. of the neighborhood on were or covered and a with dressed not Bedawins. we At some Tel-cl-Amarna. to I remain obtain " sceptical to the power of from our scholars such any The apart to satisfactory reason information their want inscriptions. cannot make a of of dramatists attempt to . their so impatience as a complete. these What weak it local criticism^ is more refers probable monuments we strangers know . blackguard the a is absolutely whole series pretend reduced in his irritation of to predecessors. seems of the of of the success to me. There of a is nothing sentence. in hieroglyphics to I have already as occasion observe. but that do yet all the cations modifi- which the religion of Egypt the underwent. The walls is feature shooting appears to not to representations rays very that their star. We camels were horses. spears. had resisted conscription their houses main force. and learned editor Jonson. in the vain clear up to everything. representa. mere a documents.106 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGTPT. foolish the testimony of true " eye-witnesses inscriptions Greeks. sense To even aside some Greek of our and own Latin.

as When my I was Greek have and been a had far as omicron. gravely . it well used proved apparently value ? that to After signs is are every construct one a of the which a word I am possesses phonetic twenty I doubt forms of it. very Yet. letters their not to level When a of the they commentaries attempt which to Jack in Stiles. 107 know the neither whole got the roots. will be an I do instance believe an in which unknown language. write have plain English out sentence they worked the of stubborn mine. of passage our included decipherers who letters not so But and modest poor Champollion. in " discovered tablet. assistance has deciphered that. exaggeration. I doubt the a powers those forms ascertained without previous knowledge not of there the ever ancient has or Egyptian ever language. the them without a it is amazing syllables " that bewildering impossibility " unreality of the absolute lips of giving sound with mortal or the or utter hopelessness.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. learning nor even alphabet. grammar proved no " dictionary tradition. drive . nor the construction. will in characters read. is still a write school he cannot as Lepsius. been the seem written . they all do not does not them despair. jumping over these difficulties. when the of same shown some distinct that letter. is the all. At can any be rate. so in an even unknown with the character. of Rosetta to me stone. who a faute type d'orthographe of the some Thothmean Dr. I should the to ashamed that modern to contradict all Moses the are on authority omega. of to extracting meaning. the have on lucubrations risen much of above his hieroglyphists the mark. wisely despair threshold but. .

" number kites. interceded to prevent These ever birds. and sure bread. . and the over yet fancying himself reminded of Archimedes Mr. history constructing chronology. enough. the wing around of a in search boats to of for It was the custom passing give" them . His have rate abandoned philological of department. Champollion. on they said. of Beni and the invented . were of food the Sheikh. opposite I an once saw man madhouse. for to keep the result that as their studies themselves be be it remarked.106 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. a Tel-el-Amarna. with It is a that die song of Frenchman. philosophical. kernel scientific. true of their nut " facte. and be standing a old chair without lever to me without fulcrum. We broke bird the and as up couple a of piece flight up loaves went each it caught away us in the a direction short the of tomb. The picked to followed the only way. will a give in a a except compulsion. theological. the He of and and tablets Abydus. " some we steep passed As it. of ancient Egyptian little below is the tomb A rocks. him. of Sheikh birds round thought earnestly the servants among Seid. at Our and were to fire them. discuss the unextracted moral. as hieroglyphists inscriptions their in general claim oracular the they expound. to at any . a historical. our rigging. Blank moving poring systems world. having last crumbs from waters. of came large white hundreds almost we of them like flying boatmen us. hut thresher's had in the tombs a Hassan a he previously successors or invented grammar dictionary. be on as and as though the reasons of not translations them plenty blackberries. brushing going us. intrepidity whimsical.

servant of as the to a Pasha. are money. be to the some sugar-factory trifling light by beams site. In small mounds of rubbish. oppooffence. fragments of mosaic a work. doubt very dreadful. In countries about cannot a be an inexplicable once fascination flutters that whosoever there to be distanced in or without atmosphere misery. place. or favorite learned the of the afterwards that he Memlook. strut no seems so or about was the busy of all I have there court. 109 Our we next course halting-place visited we was at Sheikh of the Abadeh. of that use that value exercise and as qualities find much themselves at a little in in other relations circles. place sent up exile. layer the a from their having thick of gilding ruins just below a their surface. we insisting amuse should an and by ourselves the coins for half were bargaining. of the ordinary had life the loss Coptic as if they priests a more passed but through a hands thus any of the of Siout: competent question delicate rate. hour square were still found. where of the remains the Among of other a things noticed extensive unknown system to drains. we requires judge. Cairo. and relics of antiquity round buy. town. men I am disposed think. pieces peculiar Mixed with small which of glass. and a race.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. of may to " for The to one punishment considered in the some. had the vacant and unhappy look of . young Among who We seemed strolled with handsome children was a Turk. bed-chamber. At the saw a exiled at lord or slave of the whom Antinoopolis. refinement apparently the vast the Pharaonic coins. but accustomed and to bask ride it to of princely streets favor. vociferously contrived to dozen girls crowded that we the boat.

and. merely the carry which in a brutal bottom idea is at that the all of to our political are economy entitled . there is nothing owner uncommon atrocious nor character of the of this in are above circumstances rule. night. compel whole district than administer a his ferocious appetites. to the real workers this world only just sufficient with a salary square- keep off actual starvation. get in the in most The manner. I sympathize belching a headed. hound master. occupying poor fixed. thirteen are are hundred to Of course all these people forced nominally work for wages twenty-five this they arbitrarily paras. according . indignant? forward straightof These barbarians manner. the can sit down and calmly and discuss principles of supply demand. that they cultivate peculiarly estate. truck and system is carried out relentless a the unfortunate is re-exacted refuse devils in the molasses (from of whom heavy per paid centage in the and shape are taxation) of the has the owner calculated at one a good the duce. far who more with delicate perfumed philosopher. wielding to sword koorbash. and to broad-paunched. market of his family. deluged the with to Of at course men this is almost are equivalent not paying stealing. Cavalla after of the factory. village of Kauda.110 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. that misses the daily cuff and caress of its absent Opposite with a Sheikh Abadeh and is the factory. why the we the exception. to Turk. The by means said partly to live by partly which of little allotments at of land to left to them. should out. never They paid but about three-halfpence hard cash. all. some large sugar-estate men. I ought in the the are add. after They all. namely. pro- price. a-day. be not Egypt.

some was went Ashmounein. The . The in him punctuality and " had developed even a by of your can a fear military which discipline. which these he had men. south and of more timid. to perform. and. a which life. our to see two at gigantic once engaged that would be - decided by fisticuffs in pugilistic latitude. was least as six feet a long. for I should least his bones that the It cannot said fellahs good are a particularly have are courageous made out people. although soldiers they been rather of them.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. son accounts for aversion a felt for woman. less than to serve you " him day's as some wages a could beyond duty never induce certain veteran at guide stated taken. This met only and old even charge disstill idea I employed of ever in Egypt. Ill to which society stupid develops called or narrows the proportions of that We thing to labor. military ' I would at rather. than It is amusing quarrel. worth recording. partly ' hour. told me there been the kind of man. interesta nothing serpent man. self-love men valiant virtue. like all As a rule. are nations England from and fear or Germany. and the As mix a rule. the distance pleasant inland and from Rauda. A whom He I spoke. in a in gusts. but although occurred the ride ing.' my then said than fellaha he see my as a dead feet. watch- he had was in the Morea soldier he was under Ibrahim Pasha. at I saw large among to mounds. with once return the population. will that the hope at present heels scarcely the usually because a me keep what fellah give not a until be evening.' . governing strongly so by one of the been family. indeed. that at should know be be where taken soldier lay.

by According artifice or rule. the victim enemy. a probably show of and that the louder. is supposed This. a ' bystanders interfere. classes Egyptian I of ought the a quarrels to generally among evaporate the very in low add. donkey-owners and is inferior tradespeople. however. of or considering other. Wallah ' I will not about let go. your hit. for persisting in holding that as to his It is to be a observed. number be protection of for in must his the vain free you perhaps. good deal of brutality exhibited . holds on by garments threats. your and are also used tread easily synonymous a 1 beg pardon. Wallah an !' the to After feeling hitting yells 1 half he hour. savagely 1 have big man beat on youth gown. : " the the uttering unintelligible generally cries and following dialogue takes place 1 Will No. I will break your teeth. only the ! ' " hangs tighter Then maellesh have to corn. party the and aggrieved. himself so. on makes the other. to person held. ! to ought who go work.112 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. for long to remains the clasped. towns. you let me go Wallah let me ? ' " I will not.' if you on stranger's if the seen A reconciliation be is effected equal very enough. but disputants a of a about weight. the that. coat-tail gentle violence before Thus words. do not !' ' If you !' go. Maellesh seem 'It is no matter words that as magical power. . act this as is considered the hand under accounts very gracef dis- . of satisfactorily are immense in threats that to expended you these quarrels. ' saying.

they Perhaps stayhas are people. pay them. to Perhaps this is enough. the It is simply. certainly native cling good not deal by any of means affection a to place. doubt. they not deliberately might acts.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. 113 towards and boys no not big enough to defend that themselves.services. when their example lay knowing imitate Perhaps are they can so. where cheap but something . . sufficient they their at-home been from they do receive Although remuneration for with are a their. Desert. twenty paras five farthings. and a The pays day. equivalent or Government professes to takes to force. endeavoring However them escape be. all timid races. lers travelservants. anywhere. inexorable this may fair hopes there to of reward or will lure not. it is. Egyptian them. and I have camels objects of object elsewhere most savage it is not in inhumanity. easily be excited are into committing unmerciful the very to atrocious They often seen very their the beasts. fact that noticed. two whether be danger the We induced the donkey-boys to undertake with to trajectof and Sinai. from the But to cowardice that the as Arabs I have not serving army. this tendency to to roam created and by the oppression which the they subjected. and Petra. from the they like roll about beneath cumbent superinto weight corn-grains mill -stone. Dragomans because them peopled yearly a unimaginable go there Syria. support life. any rate. into sailors be and the fellahs scarcely at called but. . of Libyan terrors. and is reasonable any chance return I have willing no doubt armies that European the by power could levy amongst its men fellahs. provisions are if regularly so paid. cruel like .

of doubt of seven the cipal prin- this is the only to prospect alleviated corrupting we of years war. passed In the our had in front of tombs of put Bcni Hassan. the are As usual trace in of these slightest artistic . coloring The is stiff. not merit of to peculiar There is an obstinate . against and one people seek the insure against of shipwreck. and agricultural we life of on ancient Egyptians. visible We went bank Nile. know is not outlines flat. and no assistance reasons sorcery. be required in taken chances fire or as an inducement. carefully in the them Their chief interest that consists cover numerous minute circumstances representations connected the the walls. rock. as a the excellence. of hills that cut out advance of the in a almost same the They so all stratum of that the even doorways from over extend the opposite all. is thence that Nearly derived accompany know if we these read we subjects the could inscriptions probably there the drawings. long of horizontal the line. not is more enough. of with the domestic and all . ourselves. had are rich treat for of a These precipitous are tombs in the face to ridge river. By doing. feeling. more would knows to be that. or of by semi-starvation. even pretending in the imitate There the promise daubs that decorate paintings are Coptic without churches. gratuities be a by a that must ascending have voyage influence. military Every nation par one one France. might monuments.114 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. of the soldier is considered which even unlucky as of life. though firm to and the nature. But a the Egyptian kind. curious and had off the so necessary we visit to reserved situated a places. impelled by a strong those wind.

Arabs have been for the work. but * My my first impression smoking. 115 conventional truth. In seeing of group of Upper Egypt witn I remember long tubes a sitting. beneath along the in silvery was rays of a full moon. place were more properly being square speaking. chapels. mistakes that the a I yield this. a interlarded where with or from Koran. and the decision of superior But thousand to or other similar how novice is liable commit. to The say. singular their the chosen perpetration sentences no of marine subjects. of covering has I am sorry say that the habit ancient been monuments with to to a impertinences extent pursued here seems a most One and daub gentleman of in have gone to the trouble to a expense his name erecting colossal have scaffolding. purposes. guide-book and tells to a me they represent glass-blowers. Leaving unruffled Beni reaches Hassan that soon we rowed shone crew.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. at Most stated The gigantic pestilent modern extravagant probably visited to as for pious periods. communicated instances by wells. are Eyptian understood practised These mimetic as tombs. as for Minieh. and they by look in some were staircases. the families them which they of belonged. Our their wont . they called. some Arabs race upon palaces to destroyed. experience. letters at in order upon but. painting chamber little traces of ancient remained. the real of interment with by in catacombs beneath. . to extending from was their that that mouths they were the ground. eye and to it is make nearly out always possible for one a practised the of tombs men what is meant. of pitch too ceiling. proves the feebly art.

in the narrative way. conthe journey again at some sider life. which I } 1 J shows only a dreamy outline and quenches when all deformity in its glow . for at every stanza that the men they they pulled. for whilst all hoped to perform future period. come brilliant atmosphere the river. I will not. rocked to sleep nowhere Many other places were visited by us during our descent towards Cairo . it seems life only in Egypt. and forms specks. My desire was by a series of . praised the City of the Imam. and light. like a more and when beneath. and the illuminated heavens. pleasant weather. chanted cheerfully as but not continuously . and massive groves of Minieh seen and dazzling in the distance. that glided nearer and send its notes evenings form delightful stations on the backward road of memory. full of dim | : the shadowy the gliding shores boats here and there. and when 'at length the white kiosques. and the tinkling of the dripping shower in which between.we determined the uncertainty of human to become as well acquainted with the country as about it.116 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. possible whilst we were enumerate our stoppages. however. and the intricate quavers they again to my ears. the bank. and for that a time that life can sorrow be \ i * i on so well as the Nile. them. paused of our companion-boat. all these sights and sounds group themselves into a tremulous picture that " a can breath be may blow away. and slim by that minarets. might take up the song Such thrilling back over the waters. yet. nor describe our many excurs lingers willingly among although my memory Perhaps I have already dilated too much those scenes. and the measured and when I linger over splash of the oars.

TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and is much for glide than have* one as learn reason human nature by this over I have cared rather as to a trace its paths. certain incidents lacunes of in the have and manners. and outline. look travellers looked of the upon it Museum. peoples satisfied of face success. Generally as a speaking. of this my I upon world. a in spite its apparent presents a uniformity. travellers countries sketched. which one a to fill up great host the of previous singular earth. observing There it. facets of nearer inspection. myriad to when on seen from distance. an student of manners antiquary. . most the of the I am scarcely of with my Egypt. of on anecdotes. 117 small pictures. it in as compartments family of present which fight a not unamiable of fellow-creatures the eternal fight life and joy against suffering and death. and its waters.

a The Egyptians. Association! fluvial of Affairs Mud Vagaries " the " Nile Watery " The River-God" " Feeling of " of the the Mile " fellahs " fiat* Kingdoms Nile " Coarse the Wind of " Inundation" Generation" Canals" Fish" " of the Use of Equivocal Birds" of Lebek " the " River" Mountain the Optical " ntusioM Trees The Christian and " Traditions deserted at Aspect Night " of Egypt No tered scat- Houses "Uses of of the Boats Fields Roads River at " Wandering Demons of Superstition " Night in Egypt" " Night Habits Sounds" of of Strong Light Number Stars on Clouds Nile " " Thievery Various Sailors" " the Forms Grain-Boats " Siout " Steamers" Variations In The Depth Go-ahead of " System Nile " " Boat travelling again " A timely Protest the No The for Railway a " The Two Lines ? " " Political Rates of brations LucuFreight down " Demand Railway " How will it pay that have Railways " The Project of condemnable Regulations Deserters " been make laid Mode Supplying new Rations the " Do Traffic f " Nothing under Sun " The Barrage of Karakoush. of its manners appearance. of modern origin. deep an veneration for the Nile nation. especially . of has be geologically history. In spite of their monotheism. his hand. and not the fellahs.118 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. Other this been beneath rivers is a may old old. There more is verily numerous no in the touching world awakens and be associations. felt the without and speaking. CHAPTER Xn. . A name more parting word for which the Nile. no one but the river or can who has schoolboy. some anxiety to yearning know behold its rolling and have are waters. to Bible some leaves affection some nutter for it. are although so they this in* called ungrateful in stance.

one place. converted partly are. beautifully the less. From it grows the every not a reader one is drop aware. is and means something and good. receiving of water. course. and it requires to inexorability their paying has taste more their divine once Mahommedanism honors. immense by the country of is not water. the waters prevent that will him tasted them than Their of saying. as I have a already . and the who and in a catch carefully a being out to show him about cage. 119 I suspect they have a latent all belief the that their river of is a God. I would I wish already of sea. draught wholesome to They have know extraordinary singular the things tell of of sub-fluvial the affairs. the pointing that grinning animal not or populace has of no watery regions the strange got to tail ! a I have the materials give complete history of of my to Nile. would autumn for the soon irrigation parched as of the into country. whilst means it is drawn of canals upon throughout machines. save dews of night and few insignificant its whole more or showers. I know thence nothing to first Cataracts. by and less primitive. and of many precise situations capitals of the realms. During the inundation. mixed up partly with of filtration. it were. near King Rosetta of Crocodiles is the another whilst the now mouth then country human of the Mermen. introduce to it here some in despite few plan.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. but said. the All do is. greater portion of . a which otherwise the be desert. court The King the Fishes the holds his in in . to add up the touches notices scattered it beyond as and down these pages. the whoever desire to Nile again. into means lake bodies means by of canals. that is well the known.

they. that soon as the little. water over Egypt the do sprinkle desert the it bring that forth harvests. of may qualifying excessive there fatness especial fact the the mould. the or cultivable covering a lands. so The as generally Nile off. of by way. irrigated fertile . to every It is Egypt common. they lay much to the the soil which The crop. sinks shallow a mouth. believe insects and all . from Abyssinia. and in carry load short distance. But mud their season. The reptiles Arabs. but ready to innumerable suck in the others. fens to and but reclaiming to salt-marshes. an comparatively. to during so a very whilst brief other by has to space that countries draining nothing make labor painfully increase their surface. all communication with near it is shut Their with by the course is almost river. the It is worth great observing. believe the the be brought say them by the over wind. sandy. importance. the sand be which useful country by wind. speak layer tract as if of once year received entire known. rising otherwise inundation be and prevent the disasters that would inevitable. power also that to while the Arabs deposit on attribute fertilizing they to muddy stress of the inundation. fresh any soil land. becomes As is well of however of time.120 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. with reducing shiny them patches to a state of mud. is sifted in richer the the that Possibly. them shattered the like the canals are fragments of huge at mirror. and the The Bahr principal Yusuf of less on Moyeh Souhadj the western are side . the stronger tempest. however. a I of believe the but is that no virtue waters in the Nile a . and at always many the desert are parallel traversed ones are the points they solid bridges of limestone.

which of the Almighty the same Artist. of In the some stream far inland places between slope the river through centre of the plain gradual elevated down on banks. however. himself. generation. in preference. with been the the the which to creating main land. on verge next. developed material. 121 descriptions doctrine the the have been produced. or ing break- through them to promontories. of very are delicate created but by The of fellahs the at sun pretend at that they the warmth are that particular though season. they found other periods. for at miles Ghebel like of The and Aboofeyda. but peculiar to eat. eating its banks. base not think it once lutely absocases touches it washes precipices elsewhere. Like of course all rivers running the through a country composed changes yielding at materials. ignoble lakes into beauty from the teem In inundation is pools with and a with country small covered size. leaving town join has are the Half this way. vast as Ghebel-et-Teyr. to the latter. with a rise walls level summit may be the pigmy with boat it glides along. rocks the western those the eastern keeping.VILLAGE LIES IN EGYPT. according from under the the to the of equivocal and that man slime hand and of of life time Nile. rarely. on it often to diagonally on from bank. species fish. and covered myriads of black cormorants and . the of Manfaloot villages and runs devoured in and one many season. above seen the Libyan the whilst the eastern in many hills. islands. certain Nile frequently away its places. From Silsilis downwards. but its tendency crosses is to seek side the the other. either one from hand or there desert and is a the . I do Desert.

many by the eye. a built accumulated to easily acquires the eye dimensions Sheikh's tomb of feudal be fortress. is. feature. to rise above zon. in some regions. arc miles9 . towns.whence Nile does not are one above When the hug the precipices. sometimes course. are All the nences emiand forms plains the of Egypt insignificant therefore. horithe be perfect ruins mountains. unite and their forms to produce of orange. mistaken and the cupola dome of a a may for the of many cathedral. projections. other aquatic or birds. seem. times. neighborhoods the large But. that can just find of footing the on little ledges names. artificial. classical is the but reminiscence favorite the tree the sycamore in others. some singular on optical the illusions produced. trees A good sometimes beauty. congregated almost the groves the name varying of extent. adorn the the and of is citron-tree. the and of magnified into giant proportions from walls Sa-ol-Haggar. in doom of palm. of favorite seen It is or far more beautiful. of the huts A of other village. in the Immense cut " groves of wood in of which. and the eagerly rubbish at sought heaps. cies spethe mimosa.122 VILLAGE LIFE IX EGYPT. the the sycamore. masses. and quite a slightest is mound. when alone. and distance. of some groups the of singular the various lebek. by Thus two at Ed fou lofty are seen crowned tall propyUea. far when removed first they all objects the on of comparison. tation vege- distributed mimosa. " is used occur near boat-building Siout the . uniform generally. forests. rising above of . clumps however. meriting tree. into a the shape of bricks.

lebek. city of Ashmounein. no none. and " tojiave the identical that the with came be- of the ancients by poison-bearer to food-bearer being transplanted formerly lebek to kindly near soil of Egypt.1 the like an From rather boat avenue Egypt of looks groves the a like and two hedges. like lebek. rarer But Christian traditions becoming of perfect of late in Egypt. 123 drooping branches. with When or woods. from sun. the One to a of the above-mentioned.' formerly they said. adoration are a that itself in when he approached. scattered at regular distances. but to for very of some dense another and agreeable which years it bears name tree. dotted from the with afar most tree-islands. Scattered . The villages. but just started from an ground. a chateaux. the aspect changes villages in trees sea of green visible are. surrounded by gardens. learned controversies. calls mind species some very mimosa. the cities show are for only part. houses no and there their as lofty minarets. being The buried are rarely . the ' In describing say 'like a lady stature. . the under and a which whole Mary grove suckled prostrated these infant Saviour. and hamlets. Arabs a now palm. seen through to breaks. towns. no wayside of by but few of rare sheds. have disappeared been five hundred the Persea a past. the laborers.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. tant disyou mountains land. the once There used the be shown. off. It is simply casting the a of remarkable shade is said . to than the in vast masses it is always ornament trees landscape. shot the out by pillars that have only . in other inns " countries nothing and as a villas. composed built the four sticks a handful temporary green retreat are reeds.

assuming during their all sorts the short terrific shapes. should on Sometimes those gentry when fear of in robbers the are do abroad bean-fields. his to evening When a fellah. as these beings of wanderings. like to our fairies. after of sunset meeting single abroad dark. by or Egyptian the fields for a elastic teem mile. dreaded the Even begin a twilight often ass. with no apart. put himself are Even devils or the villages. compass prone measure and to weigh imponderable spirit. treatment giving or evil fortune. perhaps. according capricious any to cause. he consider to move miserable that what or if compelled he affects after .124 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. however. be only way their and minds more are prepared for sublimer affirmations uses important somewhat when men doctrines. would to therefore. he omits say prayers. good their from under or divers forms. friends In all countries for themselves the humble people enemies and can in the invisible in which world . At the seeks fellah. at the gisrs. this is. an is safe dream of devils. himself alone a invariably most . my from would Pyramids the Ghizeh. and pass forge unquiet or night. except in their from way. tempers. often as visited and their ginns. misunderstood are The of superstition in to these matter-of-fact heaven with a days. or a under once form white on hare return white the I had of who ocular proof Foolish. a malaga. reason all honest devils of men home to ? The real is that choose alluring that or hour walk abroad. there chance intermediate a station person traveller. so that is do whilst day life. by motives strong interest. cats to camels. but hour. unless his home man engaged would in night-work. be of fellah venture. .

and in spring of scattered the migrate. one of the crew for petty larceny is sometimes custom one or apprehended. are the the gurgling of a stream. to more majestic hired and paid watchmen are for the some night old These precautions. like birds of passage. river. breasting in if possible. of its dogs continue and to and naboot-armed . the rat. generally excused by . that are True. and to boats the splash continue float until usual of a night-sounds. of boats. under the care the close neighborhood its course village. towards mountains When a of Abyssinia. extraordinary in the lustre . dive of marauding plaintive and the barking a of dogs. I have and sails noticed are in Egypt. a others their wind one when the moon light. leaping fish. that trees by the sometimes stars. near a village. fear robbery on a At more a few places it is the scale. traveller's is deputed boat to is moored keep guard. the throbbing of the darabukah. between Rarely the them is a vault and of impenetrable them. of beauty love. seek the those bank. in the stream light of the in that These in that of latitude and clear as atmosphere indeed. watchmen. deprive night vapor of half its gloom. But gives always along. 125 But not so if the the plains are deserted a as soon as night sets in. of a especially and moor. and serves. reflected luminaries are. but not elsewhere. the see still or it is sails to row almost stealing or possible two pale In calm late hour the weather . great the number current. often singing added the voices or of stilllaboring notes crew. and smooth they seem melt to and expand their radiance waters. but a built up world semi-transparent great veil processions dims occasionally clouds .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

serious as It has been calculated that there are five thousand boats. as but the abstain. simplicity is the little punt. as their mood may like a parcel of Generally speaking. wrapped there is round a large fire. This is. crew. and for our parts. some The unless tired by a repair thither. When mantles or crowded few of the most dissipated a coffee-house open. carrying one and impelled by a sail some three or four feet square. a hundred at the beam.perhaps. Then follows a long series of various kinds of boats. majority and amuse I have said. about six feet long and four broad at the base. most of trepidation. are chiefly taken in Middle Egypt. with story-telling. even ships of Siout possesses a small fleet of grainlarger dimensions. small and over the mark. Of late years. it is better to comply with i timid fellahs for the than to keep your rcis and crew. nothing like an attack has ever trated perpeown . we did not lose the value part. upon the Nile. very hard day's work. conversation.or grave be. or pleasantry. and as such is the rule.136 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. is certainly very great but the number the peasants use a triangular raft made of reeds. in a state of a piastre. for any purpose On this they lie breast down. and the pipes began to tell upon them. grog-drinking they became as more the coffee and the night waxed old. instead of warming Europeans into boisterous merriment. when they wish upon an In Upper Egypt to cross to the opposite next bank or go to work island. much capable of . in their generally sit up until a late hour. traditionof violence. up feet long and twelve broad to the dahabieh. great. themselves. been however. The step from this primitive man.

would be than ignorance. unless into they small enormously. on and I protest beforehand against . would be worse enormous. and The shot beau-ideal the in a go-ahead cannon-ball the be round the world could I have in to no doubt. diligent if people way. they by come Captain Cook this would believe themselves 'I've every be highly improved to their travels.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. cram themselves beds. comfort. to be would of convert life into gentleman . steamer. who would enjoy and advise understand the Egypt. and the misconceptions. and of the is progress. It has season been every far as Thebes. But vulgar rate exagge- because a it is good treadmill. I have minds to certainly always in motion. without a pay and they will be with certainty of Irish stew hurried twice to a-day. course poured who have into society.travelling and to liberty. 127 containing steamers five thousand ardebs. things for with The the which convenience men of travellers. the diligence all octavo for France. nothing against and this. say . idleness. however. have All great meddle their attendant present follies. age to distinctive movement characteristic . then be allowed week of of exploration. remorselessly half in a a forward their and Shep- destination. and sure I ought flood of know. perfect " forego and all the able profita delights of boat. A good and many pay lately as small occasional ply between to Cairo and Atfeh. I advise. to returned state bewilderment those to use ass heard's really as Hotel. go a Of of those to Egypt merely right to for the sake amusement. is.' in mouth. or the dahabieh. for the I would sledge camel or the desert. been. visits proposed to the run a upper steamer country. the for Lapland. in which.

at for the present. boats are often (icncrally hy the they got of off without the hours crew. year and skill its navigation attention. Tho hut at Nile tho varies same in place depth. frequently I am be tugged being as on a afraid after of mistaken matter for of a se Cau- rvative. style written after adoption electric of travelling. requires. tho paid not as a will be particularly not useful least for tho transit. on matter humanity. be 1 have hut on railway from that by understanding capital facts and should executed of with English and on free labor. tho and of antiquities the of Egypt. intended unite fortified port . I believe. from not only to in every year. second advantageous have Indian commercial travellers. to return my criticism the proposod always the mil way. having. conceived clumsy the improvement mode the the present desert. and will. season. am ohjeoted as a steaming of the Nile. aground. purely as Tho an English on idea. first was an pay. therefore. . tours sentiment. in The projects are The to totally would different scope and character. or so. thn manners. advocated express As a a question of English Cairo it to policy Suez. are of two with in favor the railway between Alexandria. much whilst and difficulty steamers united efforts remain require almoHt for to sticking to for thirty off. institutions.138 VILLAGE LIFE Uf EGYPT. Many in a the arguments of papers inaptness and I brought now forward used series singular Cairo that subject. to I going. first have and l"ecn highly I think. of considerable do and ran In spite all efforts. speculation would. the and disagreeable of crossing to second of is a French plan.

railroad now of three four the a hundred expense miles. the terminus Cairo. of we delighted prepare as by way singular an thus for occupation which consider my own inevitable. moved Indeed. not the the of modern will be the just the no abolition of a of armies love cause. of Atfeh. water case for example than by carried the same cheaper be by the rail. the and a the Machiavels mistake. it is a mistake suppose are as railroads apostles of civilization. to exclusive a of Indians. to Unless suppose this that or prove be the case. that I have are already the cause. speculations which sorry to this see railroad has and I should state be the Egypt kept backward by as fears and jealousiesof said. once a is absolutely sufficient purpose pay for steamer week. great powers. on Those. must the depend and must calculate that government the will to the locks cotton. I do to not For part lay much stress on the given in a political rise. not They the effect. that. to every is served for look to by the vessels and fro in preparation therefore. effect. especially the stuff to be transported . their to beans. close who profit. There more is particular present and for a rapid The communication number not Cairo Alexandria. progress. after having performed perhaps in a a journey month. Why as should there in Egypt.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. produce. of travellers. the fortnightly transits. of will rates go to to save transhipment and it is few extra days. wide-spread demand between at of peace. to But. it is ridiculous boats. and force and people to bring their at their clover. bulky I believe articles " admitted " in can England always that be not coal. 129 Alexandria Paris should they now are with the capital.

to has at invented the nothing torment people.180 TILLAGE LIFE III EGYPT. was except meant conscription. chary or of suggesting of that oppression the present prince pasha. which as the to be carried well mention precise regulations which it seems have . Eng- instead being away hopes of profit. to But has yet had the courage emancipate such be the such fellahs. no voyage in the there On to economical reasons. is produced have the to over a vast extent same of freight country. to and carried will to pay almost as now the to be terminus the to Alexandria corn ? The from place the difference Siout. Alex- is comparatively trifling. some new He wields authority received with moderation. to between cost of and conveying from the for example. is ground is In be enthusiastic condemnable days. is alone highly these and point land our outlying rays struck gilded last of freedom slowly like to by in the see setting towards another hemisphere. because first extra case distance to and enable time a saved boat to in make the an is not sufficient season. that " and useful sin to work railroad. for the a which I really he believe not by desire him or reform. therefore. will. which of view. I do think be a Viceroy the and the has any he any disposition has rate tyrant. it out he of the it no according may not custom the country. to That I be suspected to yielding in it is ungrounde fears railroad works the are in respect to the way out. to example think of of and carry desirable. same andria. of I should carried locomotion fresh not to means lishmen. when by the in favor in a of moral this project. rather to or by a mania for abstract. a and " if he a be persuaded for course. Cairo.

VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. Alexme this done by alone a is sufficient and means. . by as The an engineering . kind year or of payment of months salary at in the eighteen are least may laborers themselves fact. The the laborers were be supplied but during of execution of the canal. are plied sup- us. let us hope doubts it on will the a I confess no to having strong mitted adat subject. out. weeks. I believe. if the strictly carried in the it will be first time public rice my knowledge history to of Egyptian with consequence works. be paid piastre day. prosper. as railroads any least make ever in any water perceptible . and nominally rations. that not satisfied strings into of the inferred have from been the seen already in chains deserters streets marched and of andria. But the all the rough work " is carried of taken by Egyptian labor. is always That be and arrears. can Government The men by of forced they a required are wherever a be found . make traffic. and department the rails is are con- Englishman the be means. and none degree. 131 been tracted laid for by down. in the some misunderstanding between were divans of Cairo on and Alexandria. principle It is that longer. Now but it is commenced. by to cheapest market out course. were which more to once send provisions alternate every a than left to famish. to convince that we have on very foolish or discreditable the construction act in forcing of advice. more than lines canals of down. our prosperous not would have means been laid had the previously as existing of conveyance been successful a speculation. because and supplied these with promises to I say nominally. other this railway.

French on of all engineers and machines are attribute the invention of this large hero.six hundred years These arches were various small pyramids. and the immense sums construct of money wasted The kinds. same ever The the demolition of the bridge.182 Another TILLAGE Lin IN EGYPT. built by the Eunuch in Saladin's time. but the river at once asserted itsright of way. Latif. closed in order to throw the inundation by the superintendent over the plain . Napoleon. but they idea to their mythological do not know that he was only the plagiaristof a Turk. intendimprovement to bring about on an the inundation. great public work. As yet ithas only succeeded to say in obstructing the river " to nothing of the sufferings of those employed it. if any attempt is accident will probably happen made to use the Barrage for the purpose for which and began it was intended. from the materials of Karakoush. very proud to ' styled ignorant ' and rash by the traveller. with which Englishmen ed happily have had nothing to do. I L r . Abd-el- There was bridge of a ago. is the Barrage. more than forty arches at Ghizeh.

138 CHAPTER XIH. annual Egypt of the will profit inundation the prosperity cubits river. A threat. As on a of the or country less been is known water. the end suppose. it out infernal energy We necessary may some carry is almost that to unimaginable. natural to of time. of the was once directed the Sea.TILLAGE LITE IN EGYPT. means The realization threat is by physically to impossible. therefore. unless frightful continue convulsion by the intervene. of " atrocious the sublimity. to depend of few Nile more of the habits the have naturally observed with great . of such a gigantic as Bela winds such the a Ma. over or River the without that which of but Libyan no Desert. Nile and space Bahr against through the of a Egypt an casting channel stream of artificial into the the country Red consequent reduction season of in the single to the condition Water. Threat Means against of " Egypt " Bahr " Bela The Ma Drop of " " Importance " of the Inundation " " Prognostication Famines " Curious " Superstitions History of a Partial tion Inundadren Chil" Failures " Intercession " Heaven " Bad " Terrible " Effects Famine " Pestilence " Cannibalism of of Eating Physician Strange Gourmands " Punishment Mortality " Adventure Desolation a A Lady Cannibal " Immense the Villages" Emigration Repeated Disasters in succeeding years.

filled with Others barley in figure the twelve months paper if one grains. invented. the roofs placing the to piece and of houses. the Observation. shown . fallacy of predictions up that obtained and instead another giving " the practice. about a In in a pound of of water mould . The the the water months. and are satisfied of them increase others derive comfort . of ascertaining good chances of life and or general the fortune. they continue their it with object death. been Various and to prognostication resorted to. the quickening drop. it does the by dew. and was no The superstition is derived under the other vase from Copts. t assiduity systems arc by of the people all along have its banks. They which if the absorbing Nukta. to give far more correct The fellahs here excel their ingenious brethren the .184 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. without tion inunda- other object be than ascertain assume whether that will increases copious. weight . any on mentioned. absorbs evil is last expected drop boxes in mould the very by of water. of the however. generating may thus have fallen. them all the practice of many the seem yearly very a though none of be on correct in their night result with Nearly the a women particular comply of I have dough or already clay. houses. them yet. doubt rife Pharaohs. lump the has in weight. and is as placed men with contrive only an equal to weight always cheat case themselves the into hoping. more and changes but it undergoes. from some divers examine intricate the arithmetical condition calculations the and the of by summer dates and quality color various of of the honey produced during the the wild bees. seem require a careful result observations.

)various that misfortune of the warned fore- impending. and to down the of supplicate took all-important was rise. Mus- Christians. all most favor prayers determined that all should up day. and to to perfect resource. high. sect. of good or evil seem often receive Partial time. 1199. green June. the river other slowly extent which and their would of During became May. for the . or Being form somewhat doubtful to what on on church. the he same of faith enjoyed offer ulemas. once Within threatened water this the century. the special efficacy of History has by preserved which the was record of one horrible year visitation. of representatives went forms side and the modifications river. panic the Pasha thought proper. to although sufferings none dreamed reach. Egypt afflicted. but stagnant by the They began rise of September instead rains of the had not attained than as twelve eighteen in required : a minimum. the Accordingly. full of and to inhabitants in June more of . which by in due season place attributed lims. and July.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. rabbis. country. a last beg for the intercession as of Heaven. and Jews. to and their predictions confirmation. many On weeks occasion. failures of the more more inundation or occur from time to attended famine with has one less than misery. indications was In the had (596 the of the people Flight. the The part had lands failed Abyssinia remained and greater beneath of the of Egypt parched the . middle cubits. 185 towns. of to muftis. and pools. priests. to religion. their prayers. the waters worms fetid. there as when was a the delayed . rise.

human corpses. They soon children. He from to copy his then seems he as journal.' says the traveller. the fellahs left their villages. and expressed their fear by tumul provisions beneath movements . of no longer any hope were of an additional rise . In this state of things. Children could not of cannibalism. and took refuge in the great towns . like the children of Saba. and the plague began its ravages : and yet the poor. the people inevitable famine. the provinces withered foresaw an the drought . when the dykes of An immense Mareb flocked to gave way. number the cities of Misr and Cairo. urged by famine. where a frightful famine and pestilence received and devoured them . Abd-el' Latif. who argued that it was they should eat thera than others. and offal. dogs.' committed In this abrupt way mind does Abd-el-Latif present to the scri at once all the horrors which he is about to dein detail. pers the Hejaz and Yemen. a victims by always children . who sometimes reminds one the of Boccaccio. every means was of subsistence.186 ' VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and it then became seize wretches who had indeed a fell to devouring occurrence common to roasted or boiled infants in The Wali their possession. had set them down. the prices of already exorbitant . year monster 597 in October) (beginning approached like a that threatened to destroy all the resources There life. those who condemned this crime to be burned alive. many emigrated disto Syria. fed upon carrion. to the Maghreb. for when the sun the air putrefied entered the sign of the ram. very often killed and devoured better that their own parents. The invariety of stan were at first iJ .

without taking much trouble the 'Children parents who of had that rich and poor. be were seized made carried wolfish away by to and devoured the spot. for sometimes they hunger. kind Various of ing cook. these never in every the and of extraordinary and produced Many them men topic even but a by degrees for operated. filled have the on and bye-places like locusts lighted their upon plain.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. to could ated. people . people. practised cannibalism their purveyors. 137 be allowed by men on to go or abroad women or . excited mouth. store eating of their from flesh. such as forth they had carried to away. prepared for the ' table in the some infernal began. They rarely succeeded in seizing any women. abandoned streets a by their fled. truth. modes were food. a district in which cannibalism practice excited became no not By . infatu- have procured and seemed as become luxury. endeavored watched rushing and them from pounced them concealment. and and t e matter discussed rich quite who indifferent. so seasoning practice was soon this of food invented provinces. other Divers food. Of . The and hungry suddenly selected. repasts. that were the wonder crimes weary custom and were horror such. taste such their and detestable ordinary laying and up made pure children gluttony. kitchen. and that the spread single through the there not common. The and police arrest in vain the but check the practice criminals. the this time the surprise horror was it at first excited as entirely mon com- vanished. a They their to had murderers to for and too invited friends conceal dinner. to eat were When poor human flesh.

to a great This small walked and to alms of words pieces of that certain that he of the Koran. all saw confessing one have than I taken before her the magistrate. the desire good opinion had his and and he of gain.188 VILLAGE Lin IN EGTFT. Grown by especially length tingui dis- corpulence. trap. seeing let said. hope the you stranger. and This to circumstance fear his into man. guard. recited called street some by a man man. to obtaining She nature. to combated be suspicions. with gave without lost a roasted two child hung blows answer. who. those expired were on It always day were happened found burned flesh devoured !' that were the the remaining it was men. being longer those at well-cooked merely By degrees no children who fell victims. he as knew he money. he began the he he was falling of the However. large met " " suffered mansion. seemed have all the faculties of human she who next. neighboring kill and eat house made practice of decoying . was found it necessary to be on their physician in gave the 'A house along. round to neck. so himself led into was a half-ruined by a Here not his the us conductor physician. a suspicions. thirty to were burned eaten at more Misr within one a few infant days. to an lighted man. % these. have Having some tarried fat of the long." Upon and this physician out window. brought leaped stable that it victim. seemed imply aroused required forgiveness. As the they spot one dragged her violently that away. fortunately who the to in him a that was belonged well a honest people told known the of men. a They her hundred any extract confession.

and her the circumstance punishment. that of her being with to child. ferocious. flesh. entered There one were bodies in not every a house.' feeling neighbors any horror. which In the interior houses. lying places. windows She of of was her palace.VILLAGE . rank. the protected from poor 'As hunger. to cast or one and one's the eyes neighboring around. She she was would last but devour her denounced the arrested. condition the people were found exactly . was the number to remove that perished them. impossible many without about were perceiving From taken dead from dying to persons five hundred and Cairo out alone. great bodies at Misr. exactly resembling carnivorous at beasts. at number only can of count perished of Go3 at them. and that it was composed human Instead her constant of poor use. encumber ' that were it impossible to and the the allowed remain and streets. I can testify that it was Misr. proportion. Cairo. serving- women. village. 139 An instance by a is given smell of a great from lady. and those food her having made her inspired of with inclinations her them. village A traveller would in which dead and not a single person remained We alive. of the found the living in soul. LIFE IN EGYPT. retained even exception chief of whole very cities a of the provinces the often semblance reach a population. fearing her. to corpses be buried was so daily. As to the suburbs with Only and the the the villages. to she forthwith for her. desired learned gratified. some who was attracte savory rising and huts to taste under of the the mess. employed ' steal children 'of such The says very Abd-el-Latif. all their of a ants inhabitsmall perished.

the weaver place. way. islands appeared . sons. had to Syria or was like like a vast field in sown with the human sickle a rather at a plain which been work. " them there. that even freemen with freewomen consent. sold they less encumbered and own Add as this. their daughters satisfied coins.140 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. the same where four hundred spectacle beside presented itself. wife. The whole family was. It had and been changed wild into beasts . The route from Egypt corpses. in the The Nilometer left dry . slaves. face for as and those dogs companions emigration earth . exterminated husband. We and places were saw lying lifeless hyaenas dead. had been them. streets ters quar- and that still lived used wood deserted for fuel/ The Nile." children. his instruments. come In down. banquet! ng-hall who were for birds had taken of prey their by them. and " in which God say 8. illustrated " this We passage have of reaped the Koran. ' and their by their to parents. and a libertines passions satiety for few wretched In fine. was began to sink considerably. left the greater part of the towns was and without inhabitants. In weavers' another looms. many and wolves on and the feasting floating The river was covered with * corpses. without the a Many living of the soul. his whole the house around had him. Misr and those houses almost entirely remained depopulated. villages as I have were said. meanwhile. and and guards the devoured over This of the scattered it was Egyptians the even observed that to that mothers might be abandoned on their their were children.

damage. cubits river a barely so as rose height of fifteen and half. went had the almost entirely threatened something ceased. inundation abroad the be that fail . and impression extraordinary had happened was at to came sources of to the a Nile. general that the not are surface bed of the same country has It is but seem of the river risen likewise. of continued.1 all drooping again clothed became hearts The land that was soon in green. in substance.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. that what are called covered is. and to some buildings. 141 river waters covered again previous with ruins of ancient fact. only those once. an is the of account one given the by most Abd-elterrible Latif. Such. of the were and people did prodigious but . less the The degree. in mountains. all . probably that as in now proportion. number in less in and practice cannibalism again. length the down revived. It would lands. eye-witness. year the were In of the came repeated when the again. the phenomena autumn the corrupted. and But and that at Egypt about waters were reduced ' desert. that there was of calamities had ever afflicted that Egypt. the true complete than the it is at the having present risen. a and the miseries had been endured tradition. to The third an year. the Sharaki the waters. such never by some received when they that name formerly only in years . that is little doubt more former inundation day. that only districts felt been " its benefit. terrible vanish This felt there was earthquake. that was throughout all the adjoining misery for they countries. in I may times here the add. It seemed phantom that year if Egypt preceding had visited like at by the of appear inundations and spectres in a dreams.

it applies land state actually of was culti- tivated in the present of a depopulated the country. not as was supposed. or annually the est great- inundated. as (the government as Mohammed All for the nearly disastrous bad least inundation.142 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and Mr. . were left east dry by I the do operation. whose tells us testimony that the is of chief statement weight. yearly this. is now know what what proportion country Sharaki. and Rei. of of the the wind. portion to is be Rei I have Possibly usually assumed to his the correct. possible .) one-third it is generally land to admitted now that at of and available is absolutely districts to abandoned. entire would equal them one-half of the surface of the country. Lane. added perhaps the Sharaki utilized.

dwell the adventures wealthy of politic ministers. artithey upon water-carriers. who carry unfortunate the hero. as which. disdain any are and efforts or even ass-drivers. shopkeepers. to waste the of thing of fellah.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. The the scene professed of what as story-tellers romantic place To their we fictions in the them. minds. as call get a pastoral beyond the the is almost unknown . but sans. Illustrations Story-tellers Hak. of " Fellah The Manners Tantawi " from Anecdote Fiction " Town Horned Story-tellers King " " Fellah of of the Story Hak I though of shall now course introduce fictions. they to from cities fellah rarely country. and bound reach region of marvellous the supernatural. is invariably chosen among love to intramural on population. of merchants. of may he taken seem illustrations proceed of the fellah manners. wise are rather thus to of country They to probably which the in restricting them. even themselves at topics familiar the expense of losing great advantage of variety of incident . because one or two stories. their imagination origin. and at one soon they the walls of Cairo. The of sons story-tellers of of kings. An to Efreet to some is always distant from hanging city an about in the suburbs. 143 CHAPTER XIV.

and by scenery. the upon are a afford. are fellahs to not absolutely themselves perhaps " dumb. " They very have elegant. are in not the so selfish very pride of their in accidental their superiority. making fun of him into the bargain. exaggerated seriously to sympathy ask poor outcast anything remarkable. which he his is poverty. character condition the kept. be mere men in the way irony. and of fellah servant. within those the limits their comprehension the but. and ' continuall subject could thought. in a where moment have I often with of fellahs. Caireens. wrong the judgment. a who a had grown other of original from Tanta. something not say for not very once creditable. to but still something. with taking a a I went the had Pyramids the man of Ghizeh idea Frenchman. . from indeed race whom. of however. They endeavor. his in simplicity. would serviceable They will do are an honest. for in you truth. it is in the story-tellers a introduce of clown. christened made this poor all fellah. they of intellectual exertion. Whenever. and putting the his shoulders. and the slavish therefore. of of anything . . vast plains is. clever rogues. to malicious without dupery. be ? ' wit. work whom upon Tantawi. The always view. a the butt servants. far However.144 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. him. As the they matter of course. even ass-drivers. truth citizens villager Cairo a and Alexandria point of look They ludicrous of his acquainted with none qualities but his ignorance. artificial glimpses native of in to make up the luxurious of the descriptions those gardens for absence which magnificent of their of land real would nature. these very bufferings would and the man If the lion paint.

but his hands itch to hindered and man more. 146 He into took this treatment tolerably expostulations. impudent During of our a halt .TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. relate. he his shop. and into the . follows * called upon to spoke nearly : " In ancient had hid two times horns. itch. he both and For many years . desired stopped get found Tanta. to own so man away.and. tell that were but submitting in the end with one commendable of of the most patience. Tanta . he until he he got in his his felt the for the distending could not stomach. He shaved. lads. what they well. we a made. secret unlock When tell anything shop. with a therefore. saw promise if he divulged he he should ran was be impaled. handsome what ' and dismissed and the the Tantawi that barber present. putting danger he The . knew certain heads he keep after cutting closed of ran half-a-dozen out customers. So that and he day feeling called both his for shaved. breaking out to imprecations he was and aware justsufficiently at. that court were more a barber. being . but reigned once without to at secret a discovered through his head the happening he to make progress dominions. who and was never uncovered deaf the his head dumb. being except barber. no the money in his his mouth teeth there should home. by he the paralysis. it in. that man as after he good a deal capital miscellaneous teazing. and So. that who of which his his he ashamed he them turban. silence menace death. at Feeling made to secure his head length and was up his mind his get by from of village. under to there lived a king was named so Iskender. however. or said knew story of a Tantawi.

) take nein " Immediately his nein. were a where on he might his and great pronounce tongue. climbed crouching came the well. and fell on his back. deep round. and further. The had fallen under ' tree close barber by. friend. nein. who but asked only He tried to three words presented of death. a first in was grove to nobody crows about speak. were into and a wide and a open field. when flight of ' " and ? " settled he overhead. was there open goats lips. fields to look the He for some quiet that place. and the fell splash. ostrich's secret still swelling the breast where like met in of he a was sparrow. sentence He rushed his in a like until well. the holding to a before he The water came water-wheel were working round. he little an a afraid the egg his He proceeded within him. round . answer. trembling all the like while . splash. these were a his madman. remained hours . and away mouth. splash his . wheel buffaloes going splash. seeing three stopped near. splash. his hand themselves. came words the of tip of trees. the one for went several whilst round. going." and went So he but left the here to grove. even the water's to " and that if to whispered at a large frog up to stare stupidly has two him " Iskender-loo he " 'ornein. sheep. down as Then to the cautiously edge. with splash. round. boy groaned a nein. nein. drink. : " Who knows thought the the king may be in communication ' with birds. the water buffaloes sleepily round.146 TILLAGE LITE IN EGYPT." wheel 'ornein " overhead nein " up words "Iskender-loo was so He but bewildered there that he was afraid palsied to move. the goad in his hand." heard (Iskender the horns.

147 ing " confidant nein. the but he observed nothing his attendants. the tree had . at It evident. perfectly grinned. boy. splash. however. was and for moment thaf the he Tantawi blushed. neighborhood the proceeding the little farther. !' Tantawi barber accordingly Great was impaled the merriment a which I thought He this absurd story excited. splash. nein." which the wind he whispering. frowned. long fence of through ein. which He forth into the the he came fields with words to was a repeating himself until very the barber reeds. repeated nein. lest the his he deformity walked should revealed by to see the barber. away The his seeing approach. so thrown that when goad and they climbed found saw into nobody. " had used. were place round. splash.' compunction so said at an the narrator. the the groaned nein. where buffaloes water going round. that he hurt hearing a .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and truth a had been told in that reached round. dog. through one the to went to- village. Whereupon knew . him. when be he recognised !" . and and wheel king the fell nein." him " cried seize the king and in a rage. the they searched well until they looked ' " down Seize into the the and barber. a without ludicrous the anecdote concluding 'the tragic incident. appear was he and did his best to unconcerned." the burden of his confession " - Nein. 1 Now it happened that the be the king had been secret disturbed of So were in his mind since morning. if the people laughing unusual." that the Ein. was overwhelmed. let him paled im- 'And slightest with was thereupon. ein. other.

148

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

TOYFT.

native
ready

of

his village
have
nearer

thus

held

up
the

to

ridicule.
at
once,

A

more

wit would

turned
home,

tables
have

and,

like provincials
some

would
in
a

represented situation.

citizen the
to

of

the

capital
was

laughable
of this, and

But
only

poor

Tantawi
at

incapable that

seemed
monopolize

aim

proving

his village of

did

not

all the

simplicity
this
an was

and

stupidity
of his

the country.
inasmuch

At

any
as

rate,

the

point
to

narrative,

it

was

answer
a

the

attack

made
ones,

upon
it
was

him. nally origithat

Probably,

like

thousand with in
the

similar

constructed

object
As
to

of

satisfying
are

spirit

of

depreciation their
did
as

which

peasants
to

apt audience,

to

indulge
they

towards

neighbors.
choose

the
as a

naturally
but

not
a

take
of

it

tion, confutaand

rather
as

confirmation
at

their
as

theory,
at

laughed

heartily of
the

the

story-teller
consisted
the
;
so

the

story.
tone

Much,
which
was

indeed,
it
was

drollery
and

in

the
by

in
it

expressed, and

gestures
much,

which

translated
to

annotated

that I almost

fear
the

find

the

reader

incredulous, included,
as

when rolled
on

I say
the

that turf

all
in

hearers,
of with
*

ourselves

ecstasies

laughter, his

the

snuffling

Tantawi

ceeded pro-

narrative. four

Know
there

that

about
a

malagas

from Hemmir,
a

the

town

of lage Vil-

Tanta
of that
to
too

is

village

called

Kafr
by

the
so

Asses.
cannot
two

It is inhabited
count

people

'stupid call
be

they

their before they
were

own

feet, lest still
more

and
they

always
should

prayers
late.

hours

noon,

Formerly,
that
once,

stupid had they
a

; and
sore

it is said throat,
they

when
bed all

their day,

Mueddin
because

lay
sun

in had

did

not

believe

TILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

149

'

About
was

that

time

there

lived

amongst had
been asleep

them found
; and

a

youth
by
as

who of

hump-backed.
women

He
a

one

the

under
guess been

palm-tree
came

she

could
must to

not

how

he

there, the

she

supposed
So
she the

he

have
them,

brought
what
caw;"
was

by

birds.
story
;

called
crows

asking "Caw, and the
sat

his
the

but

replied,
"

and
"

sparrows,

"Chip, Then hunchback

chip, the
and

chip

;
woman

doves, down by

Coo-hoo-hoo."
the

poor said:
' "

sleeping

"

Little

crooked
or or

thing,
wert
an

didst
thou
ass?

thou

come

hither
a

of
a

thy

own a

accord, buffalo,
art

brought

by

camel,

horse,
whence
'

Awake
name

and
?
"

speak:

thou,
she

and

what

is thy

Upon

this round said snorted
Hak

shook

him,

but

he

only

snorted

and

turned

without

opening
quoth
as

his eyes.
she,

'"He1 and
1 "

Hak,"
again !"

shaking

him

again;

he

before. the
woman,

Hak

cried

laughing.
on

"

Now
of

it is evident hump.
name

this

child

is abandoned him,
even

account

his

I will
1"

adopt she
over

for him
in

the

drollery melaya,

of

his
and
on

So

wrapped
her

her

throwing
her
'

him

shoulder,

carried

him

home

back. When

she down

reached
upon

her floor,

house,
she
was

and

had

set

her
see

burden
that the

the Hak

surprised
walk
to

to

little Hak
about

could
to

already
door,

; and

she

led

him
:
'
"

from

door

saying

her

sips gos-

"

See

the
at

beautiful baby
corner

I

have

found Seid's
a

under plot."

the

palm-tree
'

the

of

neighbor

All

the

women

pronounced

him

monster

of

ugli-

160

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

ncss,

and

advised and leave

her him

to

cany
at

him
door

asleep of
than

to

the'

next

village,
house clung
;

the
was

the

Sheikh's seemed,
made that
manhood,

hut

Hak

Hak, of

who
his

older

he

to

the

skirts
at

adopted

mother,

and
was,

horrible
he

faces

the

advisers.

The grew

upshot
up

remained
much

in the village, and detested
he

towards

by

all

on

account

of

the

mischievous

disposition
'

sometimes
a

manifested.
ambition
out
a one

Hak
show the with

Hak
this

was

always very

lad of
much

; and

used

to

feeling

of

place.

One
he
to

day

Sheikh-el-Beled half
a

exchanged
a

little sheep belonging
this

had,
the him,
a

tail, for
of

very boy,
was ass

fine

adopted
and said for

mother

the
he
an

who Sheikh

upon
he
ear,

reviled
exact

that when each
a

would
a

buffalo
eye,

leg, sheep

for

each

goat

for

each

and

for each

tooth

of

the

stolen

animal.
*

"

What

!"

exclaimed
me

the

Sheikh,
thou

"

hast

thou

cast
"

an
1

evil eye

upon
beat

?

Dost
sent

envy
away
he

my

post ? covered

So

he

him,

and

him
as

with that

bruises
when every

; but

Hak

Hak
came

muttered he would

went

along,

his blow.

turn

give

fifty blows

for

'A
himself

little time endowed
resolved
two

after
by
to

this,
nature

Hak
with

Hak,
the

who

thought

capacity

of

a

merchant,

go

to

Cairo
in
a

and

seek

his fortune.
down boat,
to

He the

took

dozen
a

fowls

kafass,
on

went
a

river,
the

begged great

passage

board

and

reached

city in safety.'
there
avas
a

[Here,
marked

be

it observed,
in the

movement

of the

attention
to

auditory,

who

expected they
were

Caireens

be

severely

criticised ; but

disappoin

TILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

151

1

When
running

Hak

Hak
a

got

into the

first street, of
wood, into
a

he and shop;

began

by

against

camel-load
he tumbled for

nearly

blinding afterwards
a

himself;
he

then
beaten

and
with
a

got

entangling he

himself
was

harem.
a

On
dog, and found for
he

these
a

three

occasions
the

called

pig,

Jew

; but
were

people
not

who match

abused
in

him

soon

that
swore

they with

his

this

respect, than
*

more

elegance

and

point

any

Ulema.
when

At

length,

his he fowls
sat

body

was

black
to

and begin
with

blue,

and

his

throat

hoarse,
as

thought
were

it time
half down

selling,
hunger

especially and and
thirst said,
"

his So
he

dead
at
a

himself

large

gateway

'"Thus

my
in
a

wisdom

suggesteth.
much

This
is eaten.

is

a

large
cook
my

house,
will

and

large house
go

The offer

presently and
she

forth
buy

to

market.
and

I will
the

fowls,
my
'

will

them;

first stone

of

fortune
Presently

will be
a

laid."
came

woman case

forth ; and and
charm

he

addressed
all his

her,

stating

his
;

eloquently,

explaining
her by

anticipations

for he

thought and
the who

to

the

bility volu-

of

his tongue
the

beauty himself

of

his language.1 had
a

[Here
accent,

Tantawi,
the

detestable

mimicked
to

still worse

pronunciation

of

Kafr

Hemmir,
'

the

supreme

enjoyment
had stated

of

his

hearers.]
the
woman

When
to
"

Hak
him,
"

Hak

his

case,

said
'

O

excellent

and will

vigorous
save me

young
the

man,

I will of

buy
to

thy

fowls,

which

trouble

going

market.

Let

me

take

them
not

in, and

I will
me."

bring

thee

the

money,

for I have

enough

with

beginning was be very It happened she upon cried * " there be a well close feeble. " blowing very puff ! puff ! " crying. if I dive and bring up the ' " O " my son. to he and open to deception. I find only cried stone. " very old and she leaned she edge she crawled along. a O. I will go and this fool of his clothes." replied she. and for to the where Hak to waiting impatient his money. by ." into the up and to said well. puff. and as pretended the out." ' " It is a munificent got he down came reward. with the the and peared. and and began forthwith to stripped The hard ' " and dive. "What ring?" wilt thou give me. rob " had be played." 'Thereupon came she place and that to as was went round Hak by another was way. first time " the surface. as she gathered together his ' clothes. he . I will give thee a piece of gold. Suddenly O Muslim ! O good people ! help ! I have dropped my * ring into this well. and came up blowing puff. by companion. the trick 1 " to her related said. puff.IBS VILLAGE Lin IN MTPT. He obeyed." ' " again. She she to had understood home to a him den. and said. . gate woman ter quarwas a for cunning gate of who went house and thief. who Not outdone thee. of a But the truth the was." she. disap- Hak had a delighted mistaken . so he went up to her ' briskly. Try old mother. 'She immediately leaving Hak he took up the kafass. his dexterity." Hak was Hak the only " person near .

a "I whilst time have he." and Hak case his benefactor. the they where announced lation. to departing he with the what returned had his village. When it concluded 1 " he Hak O Hak. tired. gone. laughed heartily.TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. his story. which said. him from and from his washed a window. their But time what modest the the show came of houses he popped in his head. * third and up a piece He continued he in this wise up until he that was quite old worm. to of him. a person of thy talent and return beauty to is misplaced Thou there. when climbed and naked out found and the the as woman had was fled. and and his to was forth. popu- he for sale before whole assembled out To and made his fun surprise all burst laughing. that was ashamed began people matter. of broken dived glass. hadst better thy village of long many and trade I have that heard that the people Kafr Hemmir and think that all wisdom not a consists blessed a in a beard. He returned desponding . found thinking brought an old she shoe. leaving him go dirty a He plight. length a man 'At coming spied him house. to into streets in that every to see and to roar aloud out for help. they have been with I will give thee case as means of long cosmetic. in Cairo. being too to himself. as which the will make their beards a grow better that of a Prophet." was But she still waiting. him and took hump. hairs. dragged hiding-place. than Hak This selling thanked will be of making fortune * fowls and diving into wells. him and into his and listened clothed at him he " and fed him. 158 and had gasping.

. but house. yawns. put exclaimed conclave. Sheikh the privately . the grunts. nearly hastily them. not unlucky where he He of the of before assembled could Sheikh. beards to which came their hands off likewise and They to clapped be as their as their chins. his In fact. and buy small packet and then barber then the " tobacco-seller all . felt them their . they jogged laughter truth. by and been of the they the the into the population which all learned rendered wag had that by to whole ointment had the beardless Caireen equally given Hak Hak. every chin the man whole merchandise went to sold. was before evening.. his adopted mother's . and coffee-house the and keeper. with that in in and Kafr the his Hemmir cosmetic. taking found off that the cloths. snorings. bed his steeped his each believing have both beard next wisdom would doubled in length morning. ran and out greeted streets.154 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and stifled ! Then all had uprose. the impatience had been for dawn to for it appears their length ' all the patients ordered keep jaws the carefully wished-for they wrapped moment up until daylight At arrived. . in of private. and the then the the world sent was black before to his face a presently . the because " he hath defiled our beards. and helP ' " elders the village smooth had when circle faces. the all laughed hunchback. gigging. It is necessary to him . wives. the saw resolved called to punish the . smooth were their knees screams . but As they was were unfortunate.' I wish the morning the I could scene reproduce was the pantomime the by which the : described. He laugheth.

which " open it a little." wives at said in the the old man. a We are all friends him to here . noon in of struggles. still in bent sack. and would not one of me " my eyes is good but they take ' in exchange. if you call yourself . river. ' " this. and I am are ' the unfortunate by Hak to Hak. by and a sack to standing draw near in middle. back. leaving hunchback old man." 1 " Would " not am I do not perfectly well ? " quoth two the herd. of " He in a low eye voice. wallah. and away 'This idea spite an unanimously his Hak in a Hak. of and throw that may was be him. became what a was the meaning replied. marry whom the these people taking force Sultan's daughter." O yes. never ' saying "A with I see before. 155 to death.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and dost such much good fortune 80 that I would give all I possess to find a substitute. into so hag. sack. it happened came that nearly of two-double. The mouth. asleep." * " What." demanded." accepted. bag old eye herd shepdid marvelled. let us thrust him him in. sheep . driving these was by immense flock and up seeing the ' people moved had one asleep. curiosity to it. to was carried the and across ass's towards rest. shep- I very old . and the an look observing. they would . to Hak out Hak with managed eye . who his " had married " thirtythou three repine 1 " course of ? life. no cany more the heard river. I have enough : teeth left. About fell Now his guards stopped the an an lying his down.

plunged he was poor with old man river. hastened waking and to The hunchback his j he desired. represented comic. and the I have and been this account. upon their on the the ass. and There done to have a was the hunchback very considered This was thought a clever thing. They them. dogs not ! ah. ' " Ah. pigs ! " me he exclaimed : " why did you throw into the river where the . Hak : it appeareth chosen me that the only on name is fortunate. and should him tie the bag tightly. whose hands trembled made very him from a age present and of excitement. the surprise he went on fear have to beardless a people. bid of cheer. just as dreaming Sultan's and delight of his first interview how would he with look the daughter. proceeding into the their journey. lest the did as change was discovered. that to just as address water. the The poor great old point of the joke his was. Untie bag. how she would him smile be and good pleasant. his flock. and retire with up. liberated bade be Hak Hak.166 Hak TILLAGE LIFE III S0TFT. villains ! ah. oner pris- Meanwhile again the villagers. shepherd bride it opened was mouth his and imaginary the Tantawi filled with with horrible cold contortions. thought and made his complaint and against up ask pardon congratulate him his escape. deemed disenchantment 'Next highly somewhat tardy of the drowning Hak flock of morning. threw sheep. the man. Hak quietly to returned great to his village and must with of his the sheep. let out" 'The shepherd.' incident particularly amusing is little respect for human life in the East .

his gloom. 157 camels were grazing." or the buffaloes ? I should ' then have was been This hint sufficient was . to at they understood had they death second rose against he Hak Hak. the beardless every and held a con- sulfation. from determining put set him out . but it was what to purpose. but last and they a month been passed. and it resolved into up as a that family throw as should him in. that he became on whose happiness hour weigh he said tired of it. but come whole began to without be seeing alarmed. " My good them friends. to they much and went hunchback ask " his advice. seized he king. back. ' and to time for Cairo. I will cut off thy The no Wezeer endeavored and to went expostulate. and they tie them. One day.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. 1 " his Wezeer. empty head. them into the and So to a river . or a the rich horses. put that one of its members sack. all the They fine week to started young men that of very and drowned waited So the a the them village ." * who saying to to-morrow. I desire find me me hear man or an empty will saying say an (kilmet farrah)." ' Upon and this they cast spent all their money in another buying week that cords. at It came a pass named that there reigned this life epoch wore in on Egypt in such every king Mohammed. he might bring off much day. " you must want have cords thrown to in among camels. man." the said he. home passed wondering folly had the He all that day in . to a O Wezeer. wealth Hak Hak. and felt in heavily to his " hands. tricked. but escaped their hands.

arrived by and was by Wezeer reposing fellow. whom the wayside. shaking long to his head. and The king but by . dared of and to the speak. and Mohammed. * explained and he was satisfied. his divan. but patiently the the fate. and wagging hump from side . him in made that he was wanted amused move speak private. " O " traveller. and the Wezeer. found ground." O But Greybeard. could He pass " droll-looking . At and did last the went not king.156 VILLAGE LIFE IH SCOTT. did not which Hak Hak threatened him with his fist." Perhaps j this deformity cried ' " may be of service Then he f aloud. Now it happened Hak that very in Cairo. looking waited Hak now on in. morning hunchback. signs he attracted to attention. for king sitting sullenly not He decree door. to the They went together going the audience-chamber the . before. behind began his to showing beckoning king. " ' The who : stole my clothes offered that one piece of gold it is evident. Hak Hak wait. should do rode to forth save on his mule ponder what that he on his the seen was a unnoticed life. the Wezeer thou desirest to steal my to him. so nobody thought to by the Wezeer himself. and to getting on up next morning. lowed folbut out. to me. skin. walking with strides on tiptoe. the Hak. Meanwhile himself and when Hak and had hid then. bis house . the Wezeer. and his eyes. stillmaking rolling signs with and his his hand. by walked again rose began from beckoning. wilt thou gain a hundred pieces of gold ? ' Hak " Hak woman replied. upon his droll gestures grimaces.

" No a reply." that ' But the interfered. to upon where- the till they obliged and he he support him lest he to should his fall in the history to dust. I did not despair of finding agreeable mens specithis amongst race. though mixed at much as of town life. valuable the state time." one quoth Hak Hak. Meydan. I considered by its fellahs composition . king at at first afraid. and beckoned might lest King in Mohammed his bite ear. " O king.' story Hemmir. and then the his appointed him Kafr village. evincing among the of intelligence but more from certain hints in it. might hunchback him said but a last complied. O the king. the unrecorded literature of neglected . returned at but last he mild and was beloved instead of being pastoral This with the too of the Tantawi. he first caused Sheikh to him of his be scourged. puzzled. and and wished were put him to death. and a So tormented man. 159 side. " whereupon ' " the in husky voice. was hast the thou ever been to Damascus? ' " No. when ordered had heard Hak Hak relate . and it. down. Seize the this insolent Wezeer monster. that was he whisper he The . became hated. ' For moment " royal looked and then ' " exclaimed. until when they came to the centre Kara to Hak to Hak stoop stopped. ' " more have I. he explained to this was empty king saying laughed had hear . hunchback enemies.VILLAGR LIFE IN EGYPT. Thus of the they proceeded.

I raking pearls. The raid. from mental nor of the Orientals their is their can said in defence that a kind consists as naive not so plicity. CHAPTER XV. not In smile and listening at them. and and " something more still more peculiar their themselves. Oriental* Anecdote delight of In Filththe Braggart A " Hidden The Jewel Drunken " Story Arnaoot of "the " Early Betrothed" Burdum" Shurdum Cause of Gallic Revolutions. by the Tantawi there did not.100 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. manners ing paintideas. other story satisfy kind of told me. of them. humor it is impossible of their to the grotesque conceptions. that it is impossible give disease it be of The love they of err great filth . of corrupt in odiously genious to ideas. these abominations value. however. chief filled with which admirable incidents they hinged to were gross an indelicate. the and account specimens subsequently whilst on to my knowledge. so even unhappily. to as I have some I felt that current ought the be narrative among to fella* hs. they the wonderful vivacity In some \*"th which amidst of body them forth. discovered but small intrinsic it is true. sim- The in filth they of delight in much in* brutal frankness combinations language. . touches. exclusively own came Many but.

It like the an of spring winter's mid- miraculously day. of innocent and public those tell the fortunes good of boys the good opinion girls the unqualified satisfaction Perhaps to of with Hak to nurseries. Upper man. year he sold tombs the strangers to visit the of their forefathers. of his field-labor he went In the mounds of of come intervals of the among copper the ancient city. . which images. from Negadeh. charmed the very of simplicity its narrative. in In there the once of a Sheikh wise Abadeh. dwelt who loves of excellent whom named as Ibrahim. displeasure may be not those who have listened of the equivocal to turn adventures for a Hak the unwilling of few minutes quiet little chronicle village the Early Betrothed. bubbling or a breathing or through a ice-bound like diamond-sparkling feet of over a fountain up a at the way-worn rising desert-traveller. of its the smooth flow anticipated of which to our some a cheerfulness series of its conclusion. power purity. Though hand produce his field and he the of that power weighed should of heavily always him. 161 surprising delight. dipping a like vessel green that has island lost me the prow of One its reckoning by the in storm. mantle. gardener the had a young only he garden. almost as It was as composed of pictures. and and odd dug up coins and the age of Iskender. loved the the rose was on in his small. little^ to bits who gilded every glass.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. because I cannot it was convey to the reader by my the principally was created breath of contrast. Egypt. especially construction. pair of or Frank and good melayah. and wife. veil a unrent. a contrived a Ayshe trowsers have muslin.

and to mourn over the from near loss of the country that the Muslims His the have taken built them. and child. season. but separate that would Ayshe. and she there heeded was the of Ibrahim nothing God wanting had their happiness that but was a one thing. the and pelicans settle in their going on where sun. it would divorce pass . the on other. and and the just opposite the the where geese. Ibrahim decreed would that he he devoutly was reply. for they had the reputation praises to of any her but But . of his neither himself from the partner bosom. ducks. In time. bank on margin the wild of the river. inhabitants hut could sit on a its threshold step . his wife and bore him child. and had head to trimmed. be not a if the Lord come to father. to her . a crocodiles rose sleep up a till the down one of the side .182 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. the outskirts hut was of the village. used and tell him sages. to the sky like summer mountain of leaves. which to denied. were give them the promise of comfort in their There many alms people in the village willing to bestow whenever the he of their his wisdom shaved upon and that Ibrahim his beard the were . the would compliment heard not and sing songs beauty. . and stood A great the the palm-tree sycamore. of and the capable the learned. But had to he should vorce di- take that another. the barber ones. since her. passed On these occasions. old age. her. when Nile swelled. but and bathe of the their feet without was stirring in spring. on Ayshe her compelled a to carry her water-pitcher head good men boat- I distance as every they morning. no opinion that.

for not. longed that to anxiously was One work night late and save it happened his hour shadoof was he compelled to at raise tranquil. she. after over roused from its his reflections soon the had to flung the dull yellow by were light a the desert east. My my ! ' replied he. each These a of the village. the reputed contempt of the . and kissing alone. no the dish. scream of of the the of and at the songs tances dis- villagers the banks. carrying supper of lentils and separated bread herself for the from her laborers.' mind dwelleth child have Then at they fell to talking that of she their would who misfortune. other the being mighty occasional river. covered ' napkin. no It was very dark. his own mind. re* thinking childless He rising swelling moon position was and pining over his disappointment. observing the boiled women number of persons approaching. and came sat down by the side eat. to bloomed an for him and her her eyes with was eloquence refused in trembling and Yet he for troubled a son. similarly Ibrahim of his engaged had no various to along for he was heart sing.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.' of husband. 163 They denied would them. the Rest awhile with heart a and clean said on ' placing soft grass. of often and talk together would . the Ayshe and ' group. where that lips. pressing the spoke roses her his breast. but of abase he that which as was Ayshe Ibrahim herself unworthy her to lord would her console cheek. on I have the courage which we to eat. water. heard flow the the the very sound owl. her. make was and mage pilgrito last to Ayshe the declared tomb a of women Sheikh from Seid.

and. took vigor. she All around desolate. down were her some then mimosas people. She she rest The was fields no and paths of her the full of and there danger being evening. alone very Having early she . and This and evening. times. retreat and she several before back. . up sent the the and working beneath with the redoubled moonlight like so dashing over the fields in of thousand little channels. solitude frighten gloomy a her. cheered chorus. a for great began distance to a encountered not soul. when continued her journey until reached her native village. Ayshe having made embraced which her her gave preparations husband. anxiety Ibrahim. though in faint and gloomy mountains Seid is found. whilst companions. little bare feet to walked sore. her resolution proceeded towards Sheikh the way. on and started the pious grimag pilShe were the privilege until under of travelling. embraced heart shadoof gratitude. her next morning. to a forth again she come wished to was return before region. water a by hearty accents.164 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. passed for now night. afar . went away in his heard and his voice tremble forth the his through country the night song. her But remembered returning. the entering as paused and looked if meditating without she accomplishing the object of of on her journey. his wife that Ibrahim with his she a joyfully full of stood she consented. the where she mother still lived. advanced a But but had rocky slowly. many arrows silver. for and many sat hours. still as he forgot with burst across for awhile When sported her. weary. and the derision and and of their gossips. her set insulted. ravine.

first impulse of the that young pilgrim be was to turn and fly . the spoken of a fountain way her pool as the as road. three she remembered on that her she mother hastened had down. and beheld gazing aside an Arnaout soldier on under face. never whoever to sets faith to find fails already with a reach it and without guide. leaves. moreover. cast each a time she attained towards plain. in it is believed the tomb. exactly scribe dethat road. but. O ' sister ! She lying her looked around the trees. which tall palms alive waving. she . that had her.The before . out and. with cooing doves. ' Welcome. 165 courageous . when a Ayshe hoarse stoop voice said. who Noonday brought the no had water arrived. reflecting this would in vain. reached too a the margin were of a clear in sky. she So picking stones her well could and amongst soon loose with bleeding of as feet .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. about doubled to " its ten down to thousand drink. water. and with her admiration veil in for she had laid those burning The solitudes. and eager to arrive her destinatio At winding or length she to rose a came to a black and with and gloomy rocks. sake had performed had pilgrimage the for successfully. but way young her her woman had who never been that the mother. pass. Two down trees valley in the surrounded centre. gorge. longing glance in the the great it was which wound to turn afar off to But thirst impossible aside day satisfy she without sacrificing at another . the in of another invisible was and mimosa. her was summit of Nile. Ayshe.

she and patted her said. Her of arms. but the strength in and and form. a wait had approach. his head taking fountain. to his by the sat tall back Ayshe where to the they told their respective name was The a stranger. answered the salute with a ' Peace be with you. herself. rolling upon his his an eyes. a though exquisite camel . back she Ayshe by the so did way . like hyaena innocent but was ran gazelle. the about overtake than them. her Sheikh of with the obtain the the blessing of child. for.' this the went soldier way. protection. tallest of daughters vigor were of a Eve . beautiful. tall armed and stick longer appeared placed said herself between ' Man. not belonged from to a village Be daw she to ins also settled was on far way Sheikh the tomb She A bad eh. laughing about not to and spring for come.1 wife or she. ambitious head.' and she drank would with have an appearance but of the tranquillity. stories. and if I blessed son. pursuest and her ? If able neither. she And soldier with well was a it that to did just as woman. ( her. of was and Seid. down whose replied whilst led and nothing. capable the robustest lifting youths young her of of she the tribe could scarcely her was wield the staff which that carried about for too. Then to a departed. thou is this woman thy thy daughter. hand. many of man. smiled ' mother. in a grave that voice. will marry them ther. Arnaout He was came her. of Azhara. Poor am child ! bring with forth a daughter we like thyself. both and To and willing protect the feeble. and a On of being " hearing a little Ayshe.166 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.' toge- . the her but bent woman. know to that I am of the Arabs.

arms. and her like to child. of down desert upon by which they its two could level land of Egypt. by had Both of their women were perfectly and over confident of the the no success mountain. and to The young road difficult. sometimes climb up the her the rocks. taking proceed morsel in its bill. 167 Ay she replied decreed. that they fatigue exhausted. . cave. assistance the way prayers. be a her in caressing desire Thus to and mother saying. the a until from came the summit look plains. flew An mense imthem to number as white birds round they to reached the river boats summit. flew to the away. and this done.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. sun Ayshe reached had set when the fountain. they a proceeded mountain. expedition. invoking returned of they Sheikh come. collect to Their the over office is go down the to bread the offerings of passing bring fly whole country who provisions death in for in some the invisible unknown Sheikh. had The power. leaving stands them in the to in quiet the and table performed the small tomb that centre of land. valley. Here their they deposited other the offerings. unless Ibrahim a otherwise while. ' Thou carried they art very helpless a to . they and after had rested little continued was their very journey. and darkness quickly gathered in the hollow So Azhara . joyfully descended whom was But soon saw Azhara. that so it should they be. and white sails. and birds. still two lives women after The had a brake purpose pieces the the loaves each they brought for the . with with divided river of covered large the and . fellaha the found woman it impossible took ' But Bedawin her.

her husband something no her Ayshe. that trembling until with could that resembled see waited the longer hear the tall of Bedawin aside the to nor her voice rested . milked gave her companion the the drink. where woman Towards dwelt evening only mother they . corner when mantle to raise the the of her gaze the face of sleeping Ay she. proposed and taking that they should mantle. and night. the pool wild she down drink . time In due she Ayshe . Next for Ay came morning she they overcome continued by a their journey weakness. her what waited with agreed should anxiety. and turning night. and remained except whole she and night turned sitting erect aside at and motionless. for and afterwards returned Ibrahim. and her mother's house. the who next there and her was next to day. felt a strange and upon that was herd of camels. between be She them related that adventures. The of maternity charmed her. more whom in called Lulu did delight mysteries chief the first offspring amazed of and her bosom. fatigue. and baby.168 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. reminding of on the betrothal way. companion off her wrapped sleep as a Her mother in it. slowly They a . and she- one followed to its colt. impatient though rejoin she woman. it Azhara had proposed fulfilled. her she remain there for the tender would lest night. by Azhara caught it. proceeded to singly her with and long tribe. form then. children. and brought never forth mother a daughter. Her happi- . beasts bade her For might the herself come resolved to to at watch. and reached village Ayshe the 's here Bedawin and kissed her hands of of her the their fellaha. staff.

who. of the bank. O with sister!' her a up. she if know whether The this two was the friend sat of whom had spoken. who hand. feeding soul upon her away. round for rosy they cheek fell with passionate tion admira- the of his only they travels child. 169 ness was in and beholding had her infant very than over. and that glanced seriously as from to his face of the fellaha. for by Azhara. progeny after . because was occupied was in gazing with child. young old ones laughing were mouth eyes. though gazing the his threshold . same women down. glow. Ayshe which down the her she at delayed her fill. just and under a able stand. water's The One edge she to a fellah day. and mothers comparing on found Each. " wise cheering words such her . and as The spoke Bedawin many woman understood and thoughts. took delighted to renew her and they care betrothal was somewhat originally sad proposed . if she have felt her rather was passing those she would let it pass when disturb would at lips. forward But to Ayshe the time her she looked her to when her child would quit join the tribe of her husband. with a tall staff in little boy. brood watching. sycamore-tree. Ayshe and beheld leading with Azhara. that they her had become was the with the day. on work with sit under this lovely his pipe. and voice 'Salutation. rosy breast. district. with beyond was his by to however. walked the other already mother's firm to step. fashion. of geese near that the paddling Suddenly looking one convoy said. the group Ibrahim. any news Two years passed before rarely had of own Azhara.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. pitcher. notes. and not vivid glances they made of his young his heart on wife to were turned towards him.

when year to had the the visit. had coldness Ali. partly under about son. her she and put then Ayshe went husband's women showing They to all the the and at betrothed predicted the beauty of her all blessed the child. when talked of the one his Lulu. Azhara. return had promised. to : because he boy. coming who counted her . so that the Ayshe with was filled Ibrahim. but she her was Lulu the greater part her of the her was courage obliged half by the to strength. remained and a Azhara whole who. preceded camel. unburdened formed the care On partly reaching of tents. book of destiny for itself in letters of gold. and the But hours. with sun and the upon removed hands her her her had shoulder. does not many it will other improbable the writes time a things: come. the Accordingly. and looked one forward day to epoch with for impatience. hope with to knowing what is written. people with to are familiar talked with . good fortune it. passed. of and hosts. village. month in spite on in of the house of at Ibrahim. Before to soon and she rest at short intervals. taking went as' her away staff. but they wondered and . the feeble fellaha the lightly village. first looked always Ayshe. down had to path-side the weep. with some ' herself.1 of his learned departure love so the that and to regret rose time Azhara kissing child been morning. she carry started Bedawin better than endeavoring way. and her for and of leaving and what village follow daughter. if the the a Ayshe. to began despair. mother. joy. from it appeared firmament. to however.170 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. she had and performed sat her journey. of of to houses. days appeared her as meet and taking child as on vast an shoulders.

spread man it happened all the fame round. and some of them.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. that who she had must never Sheikh Abadeh. worth gladly. quite among certain and demanded not her his in marriage. during the and other mothers. and that to revenge the himself. resolving be He to remembered refusal of his offer . taken among stones. cow two besides was fifty pieces betrothed But went they away told him she already . exchanging time visits for the space to by which Lulu had grown be a beautiful her girl. were received. time be A bridge long afterwards built over over there the came an order this man that was a should canal. the The meaning wondered the this. loveliness a through in a country village wealthy have neighboring So he that were came determined to her for his wife. thought he the of the two Sheikh-el-Beled. and a and many It boys was useless with went great away other and girls. they a could and refuse asses. 171 delicacy been wife The at of Ayshe . families continued of twelve in this wise years. ordered employed Lulu carry to should the resist. children mortar. came week. and he with bitterness in his heart. the to not end of which tall. presents. which of gold. food Ayshe. This saying they with work. and knowing accepted of orders the he was had received. the to work poor . and child blows at sunrise every the only morning salary she and stripes the . earth. so. continued lad. carried them them day that a but often interfered at the headman drove the a back. and appointed the overseer the whole district. distinguished Now amongst that the all the children of her and of age. saying that lad five . strong headman and at offered replace Lulu.

the advice his young occur. but angry. of the marvelled. bufthe and second took headman of the having him inherited : the strength by his mother. of nearly throttled companions. heard talked what had taking fered inter- taken back he by was very . knew both father declared her. . the two Azhara together had overseer had to take children the parents the the settlement with an the they tribe . to gone. girls. be However. men horse- scarcely was approaching they were come were in the to distance. this be he and rejoiced. fetch and they that she that truth. The looking time first time upon he astonished rather by as a that he submitted. therefore. and. he was after which. and they what that had become The offered of however. one or and two of Lulu with force just people their advice. he so was beaten if necessary . who to knew When what the would overseer otherwise heard should her. The but Bedawin had seen mother she reached arrived when her a home body in of safety.172 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and now saw consented was joy. It and was guessed two that arrest Ali. mother of come took flight. accordingly. throat. the the matter joke. So Lulu son returned of Azhara in her to her parents. her and place. the the children. with for the Bedawins to labor their hands. at sons had man. and he gave orders Ali should strictly treated. that and he refrained. like told and the them that Ali the engaged they not to had stead taken . man. but was gave orders went that to Lulu again found seized when they and not was. sent into . he was beaten immediately. great the overseer. When the place. for that implacable enemy. headlove work which.

contract and that asked whether entered yet she the had into between understood know of her their what she he was mothers. of man delighted her have this was opportunity already a a communing in stature of with and heart. from and was far pursuit anticipated. even Here a he more his betrothe in than he safety. meant. demanding. ' And I. treatment. alone. until Azhara arrived . absence even and showed the new-comers their would when be preferred. are As the sons the desert. and a capable concealing thousand placed active to from prolonged search. got if and they declaring that thorns Ali to whip him with way Sheikh Abadeh.' said curled not answer. but soon of that Arnaouts the arrived. . Azhara. an of ancient was his people of of the knew hewn a the out It was palace Kafrs.' giant woman. irritated settled. but to He intelligence. and passed hours to deliciously talking together. should with be The great company insolence. Lulu. of the men rock.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. a little while. their caught horses talking rode would big away. 173 for concealment. sometimes apt after be by light the upon they all the Arnaouts. cavern. So remained child in rectitude and he had spoke Lulu of their betrothal. soon who scarcely contrived abide some to let him decision that wilting they to by the seniors . their ' will whip at the whippers. tives fugitribe young of the given up the members pleaded that of to ignorance. They but did beards sight of the Ali to a meanwhile led which Lulu rapidly only by a narrow defile secret. since they of the love he entertained for her been her first played repined at together.

174

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

announce

that

they

could

safely

return

to

the

lage. vil-

With suppressed,

the

exception and

of

a

few

too

naive

expressions abridged
or

certain
case

Oriental
seemed

ideas
to

paraphrased, pretty
by
a

as^the

require,
as

I have given
our

exactly
man

followed
once

the

original
a

narrative,
on

who

begged
and

passage

board

boat

between

Minieh
to

Benisouef.
because

Here,
the

however,

it is necessary
of
was

retrench,

commencement

a

new

cycle

of

adventures
the

of

the

heroic of

character
the

introduced
of the
but
a

before

termination

simple indeed,

story

Early
kind of

Betrothed.
pleasant

This
prelude
and

story,
to

seemed of
a

the

narration

series
the

of incomparably

gallant

chivalrous his long

feats
career;
an

which
and

young
was

Ali
a

performed
recent
as

during

probably For

ornament
soon as

added
Ibrahim
by they

to

old

legend.

my

part,
our

and

Ayshe

(evidently nearly
and
the

contemporaries,
by which

their
were

manners

circumstances been

surrounded)
the

had
encampment, by
as

comfortably and poetical
of and
the

transferred

to

Be da win satisfied

justice had
overseer;
were

been

the
soon

punishment
as

and,

above

all,
to

Lulu
interest

Ali
an

married,

I ceased
of

feel
more

much
or

in

interminable

recital

forays,

less

successful,
of

of

interviews
all
chaste,

with

celebrated
but

chieftains, carrying kings,
one

and

episodes,

it is true, perfect
sons

into the

frigid

society
dec. ;
"

of

of
the

peerless

princesses,
was

when,

I say,
gradually I

little fellah my satisfied
to

drama

terminated,
on

I

continu diswas

attendance that

the

recitations.

know
a

Ibrahim

and the

Ayshe

lived

in

happiness

to

good

old

age

; that

tall and

stout-

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

175

hearted
were

Azhara
gradually Seid,
by

was

equally

fortunate without

; and

that

they of

surrounded,
a

the

interference

Sheikh
The

perfect

swarm

of little grandchildren.
to

remainder

I abandoned

the

admiration

of

the

boatmen.
It is
story, marriage

worth

observing,
uncommon

in

illustration

of

the
to

above seek in that
to

that

it is not the

for
of
to

Bedawins
the fellahs
a

prolific
rare

daughters for them

; but

it is extremely
take
a

allow

stranger

wife

from

their

tribe.
of

Many
the

of

the

Arab

tribes

settled of
the

in Egypt,
climate,

in

spite

assimilating
a

influence
very

preserve,
countenance,

in

consequence,

tinct disevery

type other

of

although
be

in

nearly

respect

they

may

classed

with

the

fellahs.

A
venture

few

anecdotes,
to

as

specimens
for

of

Arab

wit,

I

will
they

introduce,

although,

many

reasons,

lose

by

translation.

i.

There his village
of cubit oppose
and

was

once

a

man

who of

became

the
and
a

terror

of

by

the

loudness

his

talk
to

the

ness fiercea

his

gestures. himself;

He

used

carry

naboot

taller than

and
snort

if anybody

attempted
out

to

his will, would

and

puff
a

his

cheeks, and

bellow

like
with

a

buffalo. eyes the

He
and

had

wife,

young

beautiful,
and

gazelle said

pomegranate
narrator,
a

bosom;

altogether,
a fellah,)

poetical face
she

(a
stature

stolid; but

looking
still he

moony

and
came

palm
to

ill-treated
a

her

until

hate
men

him. of

So
the

she

chose

lover

from
to

among

the
secret

young

village, and

revealed

him

the

that her

husband

176

TILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

was

really
should
on

a

coward
compel

; and

they
to
a

agreed

together

how

they

him
with

divorce. who

The
rode

braggart
upon
came a

started

a

journey
in

his wife,

donkey.
to
a

They

proceeded
a

together
place,

until when

they the

melon-field
"

lonely

woman

said,
1

O

my
one

eye,
here

I feel
who

a

longing
the

for

a

melon
to

; but
one.'

there

is

no
1

has

courage
'

steal

Look

round,'

quoth

the

man,

lest there

be

somebody

coming.

I

am

not

afraid,

but

this is

an

improper

action.9
1

There
he

is not
went

a

goat
the
cut

in

sight/ replied
best

she.

So

into

field, carefully melon.
and

peeping

to moment
"

the

right and
the lover

left, and appeared

the
a

At that
exclaimed,

with

gun,

'O

thief!'

The
1

braggart
there
was

at
no

once

fell upon of reply,
cut to

his knees ?
'

and

said,

"

Are

means

pardon
'

*

None/
which

the thou

unless

thou

causest

the

melon
1

hast
;

grow

again.'
ransom

That

is impossible young
; and
man

but

I will
to

myself.' anything having
went

The
the wife

declined the

accept

but nounced pro-

accordingly
triple
sentence

braggart, divorce,

the

of

away

saying,

"

'If
pull thee!'

that

be

all, take

her;
have

but

hadst

thou

asked
and

to

my

beard,

I would

become

fierce

killed

ii.

An
with

Arnaout
his

soldier drawn;

entered
and

a

coffee-house
an

drunk,
woman,

sword

seeing

old

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

177

toothless, chin,
'

half-blind,
"

and

with

a

tuft

of

beard

on

her

exclaimed,

Let
I
am

this beautiful the mother

damsel
of

sing,
men,

or

I will slay
are

her.9 fathers

'

four

who

the dame.

of
1

fifteen children,'
My

replied heart
!'

the
quoth

frightened
the

eyes
"

! my

Arnaout,
me or

in
with

bad
thy

Arabic
beautiful

;

it is necessary voice. Sing
"

that

thou

charm

Doos,

doos"

I will

make

kababs The the
with

of

thee.'

frightened
stanza,

dame
whilst

accordingly
the

began
customers

to

yell

out

required

fellah

giggled

delight
said what
a

'Ah!'
head,
charming
of
a
'

the

Arnaout,
thing
to
me

sagaciously

shaking
! the

his

wonderful
seems

is drunkenness
no

This ing creak-

voice

better

than

sakia

!'

in.

A
but

fellah fell in

went

to

Cairo

to

make robbed

some

purchases; him of in should money
a

with

thieves, passed

who the

all

he

possessed.
house,
and

He
next

night

sleeping
he

ruined
return

day
or

debated supply idea

whether
the place him. he,
'

empty-handed,
cunning.
'

of

with

A

bright
to
a

struck thought and

1 will go
best

shop/

make
to

selection
be
a

of

the
not

merchandise,
a

pretend of
the

stranger

understanding

word

language
enable

of
me

the
to

country.
escape the

Perhaps
obligation

Allah
of

will in this way

payment*
state

In this
repaired

pious
to

and

dishonest
sat

of

mind

our a

clown
mer-

the

Goreeyeh,
12

down

opposite

dexterously dropping the . passed. chant. out trader. have quite ened fright- his reputation. and she. burdum/ But the selection roguish customer. taking the up the parcel. for !' said * the Taggar. walked off. in of She his mischance.' words. 4 took his pipe. overawed the These understood.178 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. who a forthwith spread repetition a his best merchandise. What I done ? Hold thy peace !* only cried But hands she on the louder . ' Burdum. and a man somewhat by the resembling was seized his over or enraged but police. goods . shawls. a and child. and escaped crowd. A little while the thief afterwards. dead and it up at carefully shop suddenly ! O her went a to purchase bargaining * the of the merchant. that they according had seen satirical away narrative. and pointed oat some sUks and Probably Shurdum your honor is dumb/ quoth the Taggmr. the him to carry galleys. merchant The insisted him fellah and to protested innocence: to the other who were swear handed prison. liberate heard him. to him the carried Four this five witnesses to brought. and he was condemned the to the man's Meanwhile unlucky mother-in-law. who happened devised wrapped be to in Cairo. whereupon he laid little her. words payment After 4 reasonable of was the made magical and quietly amidst shurdum expected. shame me O lewd fellow to ' the merchants ! Dost thou ' take liberties with woman ? Silence. " After little she exclaimed. not replied being the fellah. how took mantle.

nation political evolutions of neighbor the by the on way. the skinny continues to Miss to Tippet. but. agreed a give large The as a offer bribe accepted portion of the of the money man served . believe of a who came before of the peace " * herself the belle season the motions or pendulum led him to possessed seek the by cause a devil. IV. our The He " fruit of the his meditations compared who. He re- of a country nearly corrupt. to which despotism. ' Aie I Ait at I he has killed my . having occasion of gyration.' is a scandalous story. a for the sum.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. " neighbor merchants interfered. and must be hushed The supposed to culprit professed age and innocence. 'This up. to travel and can in these latter days as hearing never much discussion with to why its people they love. which to be with very satisfied spaniel naturally liberty. ignorance. was at length . 179 corpse concealed " in the comer of her mantle. An France intelligent during Arab. where else- Charity. the still consider face out selves themas first of the earth. and child the !' A crowd once collected saying. of was docility applied first they solution his the the a problem. which had . similitude. for the son liberation returned to innocent and mother and the their village quite satisfied with adventure. sake of peace. mind and submit detest. in the than knew heart of this as singular nation. ugliness to and referred the woman's . began yelling.

eat hak en-Nebbil' French in coffee are he a cried. and of thou their adoration be will rise to thy as nostrils. to beans throughout a and have breadth become the In few years. the origin of was gas. 'the is The beans bean-eating in their nation.180 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.. !" ' O The king wilt worshipped a god Pharaoh . only perplexed thousands most The order " Gallic that blown whither head. matter lWa manifest. stews.) his pride. he and had a desired a worshipped to resolved issue firman that effect. to one of to the be Pharaohs.' I am to consecration of the in as bust the a of a first of magistrate. " immobility for " twas change of years. had said. the when enjoining length they all fellahs of plant land. any In ancient he the (without attempted ' making allusion. carry nious ingeterious dele- up like balloon which asked1 seek to they will.9 sure. mained that in Uened him then. stupid. ripe " although tolerably purpose. But and at wise Wezeer named Yusuf. and make is there ? ' anything most thai generates he wind a so beans Like ' Orientals. he meditated for a while. he out of is. and suddenly illuminated. times. he expressed a it. Being and to continue his this speculations. an but Let issue edict. to only us the king. and declared not people. despair and of cunning the very and artifice . late story pat to the purpose." said. the fragrant incense . They they even their of much soup. breezes inflated. as* he argued. " yet sufficiently he not for the use We must take and time. plenitude god. I do not making the vile mule multitude which the he worship rides. full of foul the wind. submitted who to hummed ha-ed length were when the project was that the him. used this windy diet. beans as beans .

and in of due time found idolaters. 181 listened to advice bring .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. Is by it too for the French of regenerate I themselves giving haricots . matter to crowds devout all mad the by the mechanical operation of in me spirit of own to temples late up which the use he erected to his honor. it an easydriven beans.

a amusing gravity do the the not true meet married better couples unless again in another world.182 VILLAGE LIFE IN BOTIT. is nothing The more paradise than an it conceives elegant believer and pants lupanar. CHAPTER XVI. my and too shocking hasty ears polite. Notions indeed. from positive mation. without a I have been repented able one. Mohammedan mind becomes material. The a once light in which fascinating. for with fleshly. lutein Opinion! of Women " Story of the Green Bird and the Two Destinies. maintains and that and it. But discuss. a women are regarded to in Egypt is subject but difficult opinion words. on called supernatural touched subjects by the common . to having more conscientiously substitute favorable making any I shall refrain. husband specially desire . therefore. but everything solid. are. judgment. . unliterary. affir- One that race thing there may a be advanced absence as nearly certain " " is great accepted of yoke spirituality of in every which what are has the Islam. I had could formed expressed to decided it in three thereon and have short.

them in form under they conceive man it. to ascetics. kababs with that draughts but not of longer forbidden will 'cheer pilaus. purer of religious of pleasures. the the It is evident. more or less surrounded with therefore. country as are the positive joys of the anticipated with a they than call their Paradise. circumstances of splendor. no unfraught wine. by a melodious kisses ever-renewed treachery. and in cooler groves. intensity as as an with volume of the a and figures himself surrounded he. state It is true intoxication. looks magnified forward into land. of a harmonious angels. inebriate. a with giant because complacent as being of tall he as the palm-groves contrary or his native believes. is to highest emotion evident of which is capable. with serve bevy him. of and along believe that talk the tedious he of him that some is still in in a time. of maidens mighty-limbed in skin " " ready to Thus by transformed. happiness make to waft him stream delirium eternity. which that love. his own atmosphere of musk are produced keenly on southern will lie nostrils in huge alive softer to perfumes swards he laziness than more those of Bar river. Masr. material pleasures. poet.' of heavenly and divine of the rustling green the silks. the songs in glittering uncounted will precious combine stones. of ineffable joys . 163 In no Eastern Garden. of pain to our philosophical increase in that pangs the pleasure body .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. but it is equally that they . in his misery certainty to and dirt. be experienced the in the of presence of the dream Divine only of Being sexual but majority " Egyptians or intercourse more less refined. desired roughest keener relish in Egypt. The fellah.

wont to sage are witticisms current in which in libertines and as indulge they love Egypt. totally and different. embodies good on prejudices of here or the Easterns that the. they say Like live at the old philosopher. exceptions. heaven or and long dreams for of objects youth. the but Arabs useful upon woman a dangerous. STORY OF THE GREEN BIRD AND THE TWO DESTINIES. story-tellers. female was following times which forms. them. wide margin as for crafty. and a man named Daood. a related with of the to me in various and often many incidents opinions women. In who a distant country his once dwelt selling . only to be found in in the a Leaving look sex. of necessarily the tory reper- coffee-house names. despise. to the focuses the rays on permitted concentrate of tljeir passion. which from they ignorance are or knowledge. cunning The several and wickedness romance. and do not form of the belong conversation to of Orientals. Cairo that and the characters. contrived of the half the stories of the to relate are illustrations race. are Indeed. found He had a wife to earn children. either in fragments. it is impossible impossible is to a to happily all with but equally live without would them. and of manners It will are be observed Egyptian.184 VILLAGE LIFE IN BGYFT. satisfy Malum the least necessarium definition all the that caustic. subject of this I may entire remark narratives part of kind. that the great a city Karamun is merely concealed under pseudonyme. to it very difficult feed For himself . gained and two living by boys firewood.

peep into the shops and of the One the day of as a Daood crier was was entered proclaiming this " the city gates. These Sometimes rocks. and was apparently that the stupefied hard labor an and little food. state of the warehouses governor. Hassan these two and Ali. and young say. Hassan merchants. sleeping feared amidst and the wolves hyaenas they. Daood . When him. and side looked a like ' springing from trunk of withered sycamore. not associating to children age and loving the the walk to hand-in-hand admire the through palaces and and the the to city. no one. the dews next the bottom but of he. an he heard nance. for he was fierce and savage he returned with to the city and produce would had and sold gave his wood. ordino voice imperative pain of and private the it that on death by individual permitted established to a sell wood retail. and younger. neighbors called him idiot. guards.VILLAGE LIFS IN EGYPT. He the used to go with a little ragged at ass far away steep into mountains. the he passed days. governor having monopoly. admire ! is Then his two sit down and sons. by like a wild beast. Ali. valleys trees which bushes visited of grew he and and fed by night. 185 he went about so nearly naked. They with were ambitious of their and own proud withal. where. and respected him. perhaps. cut left to dry several and as until his visit. he wife at ' went home the he it to and his gaze to spend. Allah the it possible my that ' princes lovely as are fruit of loins ? For by the they his were the green children sprouts of Paradise.

could in It order the in years. Then beans. and the he had left . having felt himself resigned.186 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. tore loudly paper mess denounced to tyrant. whole they down their of boiled which with tears. we and eat it is necessary not starve. his with which. and in secret. powerful to and of he his went sadly the public warehouse to dispose of ass-load a of bit not two fagots. the and in her family salted the to a pieces. men The fear anger sat sometimes the will when speak. in corner his whimpering said to bemoaning " his fate . At in despair. if . began to beat his breast and cursed more to tear the little clothing aloud. of paper. my lord . ass and his when hatchet he he came mounted the valley fire pushed and he departed. Daood but and sat did not crouched return to a the mountains of at for hut some days. the neighbors that will thou no earn longer money thy to ass lend that anything. But on was there. may and of Go keep forth with back and in bring secret. and to found that he but had fallen from devoured cut it. instead was money. good to related as his wife what had happened.' wood. had But where left heaven a provision. and woman. which I will part sell Daood took saw that there and to was wisdom his in this speech. received he payable he which an written on something treasury countenance. read. 1 Up. but length his wife him. So further into the without he sat interior fresh but wandered long length fate. wood. finding down he sat as aught rocks and sand. dismal to women reached home. and a bemoaned little green his sad Whilst he observed bird crouched in a hollow.

like knew advancing. This is a pretty now thing. was and man. poor thing and was a flutter its wings. martyrs that birds pleasure to God's in in Paradise. a he tossing diamond saw Now Jew said who to passing " along and coveted it. his weary beast.' up and up he crossed clouds the his and little down climbed towards again. and him. egg. of as and . he watched within and it silently such for some time. eyes poor a if about crooked down. too I will to ass. claws pity on visible The seized taking ed launch- the the little green stone and it at up soon hawk. 1 O Sheikh. the walking. Not for hundred. until gates green the city. show the signs agitation and to lo ! above pounce were it hawk poising wicked itself. wilt ? thou ' sell me that piece of stone for ten pieces of gold The and ' wood-cutter " thought he was laughing at him. bird. shaped and star.' . on Daood. and to its bright Daood. The wood-seeker its value. kept his disappeared. take it home more the children. its neck. So It is late seek and deep for bushes. saw something brilliant there. 187 covering remembering dwell Suddenly curl up an egg . a which spot frightened. the found began all the sight. arrow and circling the became in the like but an Meanwhile along who green and eyes bird had fixed had darted the had ground. replied. not found shining but to it to like said.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. heavens. the place and an where it had sat. a ' be a diamond. he plain visible and he arrived the of As kept was entered. at the into was gulleys. beside in his hand.

tended the if it had son of Adam. position that he wrought go so in the as of Daood great. with been from and food snakes. . and house. But after time good Daood thought it necessary. says bird reconciled it would captivity. in danger cage. living and a golden as delicate a at command. in token of . whenever had put an his hand egg " into the cage to he wished for obtain always of gold. A thousand/ cunning fellah. and envied and envy. length who green only to a bird to was in the house of Daood. 'Let him 1 it be a hundred.9 sleeve said the whispered into a the Jew pulling by his ragged by-place. cease How not journeys but at the I do captive remember. and other change the Jew. respected but by buys by a Wealth the to provokes it on respect world prefers the being horse to trampled that golden hoof feeding the neighs desert the came for its to provender. and the to attending he his beautiful taught to friend sit on which entirely narrator. foolish have about to very have preferred hawks flying wild in a desert. been the a Indeed. morning Some to far to say returned a every the he mountain became was a and procured man. having sworn a by Father ham Abrapieces too much. sold the same Jew thousand pieces The man. At any rate wealthy magnificent his neighbors. guessing the truth. Whereupon that it was of gold. tamed to and its his finger. fortunate devoting wood-cutter himself and remained to a quite simple on principally benefactor. that he counted might thousand the begged such have first offer of any The was jewel thus that might be found. fresh built a egg.188 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

189

gratitude
to

for what
So,
he

he had
leaving

received,
his

to

make and
city.
to

a

pilgrimage
to

Mekka.
care,

children holy

his bird

his

wife's
The

departed
removes

for the its

story

here

scene

the

heart
no

of

the

Jew-purchaser

of the
more

diamonds.
rooted with

There
than
but
"

is

article
the
"

of

Muslim
is
an

faith

firmly

this, that
one-

Jew the

accursed
of gold;
true

odious

being,
amusement

passion

love
on

and

one

the working

of evil

believers.
as

This

said
an

Hebrew,
underground

therefore,
cave

is

represented
heaps crooked of

sitting which plotting Daood.

in

upon with his

gold,

he

occasionally
the

raked of
by

fingers,
ruin of

acquisition
he
came

fresh the

wealth
edge knowl-

and

the

How
him

which
people of

guided his this
race

is not

explained. with
the
a

Are
evil
or
one

not

in
be,

communion the
not

?
two

However
about the

may

Jew only
and

knew
all

thing

green also

bird;
that

its relations
were

with

Daood,
with would
would

but

its heart
so

liver

endowed
the

magical
become

power,
a

that

whoever
ate

ate

first

king,

and
wealth

whoever
at

the

second
therefore

have pondered

unlimited
in his

command.

He

head

how

he

might

indulge

in

these

delicate

morsels. his wife plan, of

Having
where

matured
the

he

went

to

the

palace
to

resided
to

Daood,
that

and
he

demanded

be his

introduced
respects.

her

presence, opened

might
him, lady
"

pay

The
why;
because the
to,

harem perhaps the

before
the

it is not
was

explained
perhaps

because

old,

narrator,

being

of humble
he

position,
had
been

transferred
accustomed wood-cutter.

facility
to

of
now

intercourse

the any

aristocratic

family
the

of

the

At

rate,

admitted

was

Jew

; and

190

VILLAGE

LLPI

IN

EGYPT,

being

of

eloquent

tongue, poor
she

he

easily

succeeded worked

in

cajoling the
enchantment

wife
on

of the
her

fellah.
became

In fact, he
an

; for
to

automaton

in

his

hands,
the
sure

invited

him
bird
success,

supper,
be

and

at

his

suggestion

ordered

green

to

killed. waited

The

Jew

thought

himself
costly

of

and

patiently

for

the

meal.
when
a

But
the

the

poor

bird

was

killed
placed the

in the
upon

kitchen
the

by

cook,
a

slave-girl,
smell

and
; and
as

fire, it

diffused

savory

children

Hassan
a

and
taste. to

Ali
The

came

in

and

asked,
not

children
meat

will, for
but he

cook

would

cut

the
to

;

gave liver.

the

younger

the
she

heart,

and with
saw

the

elder

the

This
hot

done,
When

proceeded
the

her

work,

and

served
before

Jew

the

bird

placed

him,

he

seized

it with
he

avidity,
saw

and

looked
not.

for

the

expected
fingers

tit-bits, but
trembled
as

them
tore
as

His
the eye

crooked bird;
grew of his

they

to

pieces his

his
round

visage

became

as

yellow
of

gold;
rat

and
nose

fierce, like those
opened
his beard like the

a

; the

nostrils

thin

gills of fishes ; his teeth

showed

amidst

like the
out

fangs
heart the

of
and

a

wild
the

boar.

At

length

he

shouted
'

for the !'

liver.

O,

master
'

said

wife that

of the

Daood,
cook

terrified has

at

his

anger, aside.

it is probable
her
be

laid

them

Let

called.'

The
our

slave-girl
insisted
eat

came,

and

told

the

truth ; whereupon
be

Jew might

that the

children

should under cookey
but,

killed,

that

he

them.

The

mother,
; and
:

the received

influence orders

of
to

fascination,

consented

commit caused

the

double

murder
to

instead
Whereupon

of

obeying,
the Jew

she

the

children

fly.

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

EGYPT.

191

returned

to

his
lying his

gold dead
accursed

cellar, with

and
rage

was

found,
a

some

days

afterwards,
which
wrath.

upon

heap

of leaves, by

into

wealth

had

been

changed

divine

192

VILLAGE

LIFE

IN

B6TPT.

CHAPTER

XVn.

Sequel

of the

Story

of the

Green

Bird

and

the Tiro

Destinies.

So

far

we are

have

a

good

nursery in with

tale,

in which
to cast

the
out

incidents
upon
the

fancifully
two

contrived, lads, each

order the

world
him.

seal

of

good
;

luck
and

upon
the
a

In their hurried
the
fortunes

flight they of he the

separated Hassan. evening
and
a

story

follows
of

elder,
one

After
at
a

variety
city

adventures,

arrived
very

great

named

Karamun,
that he

poor,
were

tired,
pair

and

miserable.

All
a

possessed
with stolen

of of
he

saddle-bags the
rights
them, the

and of

mule,

which,
he

cool from

disregard
where

property,

had

found
with

under

a

tree.
a

Before Rafael
appear
the
not
a

entering

the

city,

prudence that boldly officers

of he

Don

he
to

filled the
possess
where

bags
some

with
wealth,

stones,

might

and

rode
were

through

gates, yet

custom-hous

probably
that

stationed.
or

It happened
of
the
sweetmeats,

that
was

evening

Kunafiyeh,
his wife
sat

seller
was

disputing
a

with

which

right with

side
the

of

melon.

They
them

opposite
the
man

each

other,
(

fruit between

; and

said

:
'

This

is the

right

side,

because

the

other

is the

left ;

the contention the case. ran riding to on a mule. but are into the the mean had " lo ! in as time as a black are slave misers (Negroes and old the women surely " thieves had Jews in shrews) of and stepped The and carried shrugged c off object Let dispute. dragged and been him saddle room before where he the hustled . all things. lord. said. " Kunafiyeh his shoulders. Let the first stranger me a cometh down the street be arbiter betwixt and At that instant . " all old to ugly and ! women wicked began ' swear. on and the took the bridle " side.' sleep to-night until this matter is decided between The once Kunafiyeh . and the other other. 193 but thou hand woman. approached one the on out meet him. hemmed. .' But wife her stated favor. ' that thou a knowbut est There sides to melon. to say : Wallah el Azeem thou shalt not us. " into obstinacy ' . son of a dog my at ! dost right grew and side warm. is nearest right ? ' The who was dispute old and until " last the to wicked are according especially the Arabs. who his years. and he chose middle who thee.' And could melon they answer. O mother. : coughed. and delivered ' his opinion It is evident. the not woman see replied that the : ' Not so. cease. It is well. ' both our crying. O judge thou between from him the us. and insisted on a cision dewas in wise above Whereupon Hassan.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT.' course. and spat.' are quoth two he. and comely couple one youth. should have have given up wiser the point at but women aggravated a folks saying.

was which aside. and and woman the saddle-bags. Now Hassan being youth slight of . to reasonableness knowledge extensive. he of be a the danger. that the pieces of gold fingers a like water through a sieve. death. the urging a golden So hand knew could receive were of his blood. hour were travel-weary. will same The stranger is rich.194 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. They and the But 1 both looked the heavy saddle-bags. ate nothing loth. and the that woman Kunafiyeh his her eyebrows. prayer. and Now. whilst he was gazed dipping at the hand. her avers as opinion. it could have the whose been been on the other of of side. and the vited in- Hassan as stop with spend night. thy human good The seems man will narrator. not see is opposite was on to the thy and right this side. think opened sitting should eye killed a bag the man of He one over little. ran and through raising her it a little. us. to Hassan in spite that they ting plotlaughed and. so accepted.' ail lay being down to sleep in the Hassan. The askance in her man's head contents turned . for saw inwardly stones. as the right side side.' nature woman have that soon the as felt tenderly presumed to towards be to husband he was in the wrong. scorning his not scruples. he was a stranger. The was youth ready. them embraced and to him. waked not until near of morning talking The in a Kunafiyeh low. inwardly at repented hospitality. the woman so they but had opened. and thought. and and voice his " wife he together be that a husky she saying that it would and stain sin. only one right the left side right side . and reward room. and when mutton supper and the the greatef part of raised the bamiae.

with beauties. more touch than of their rosy-tipped of a a fingers is dangerous the went bite once serpent' to With indifference he the . with satiety. there was his life in danger. dew of their lips is poison. body not he of Kunafiyeh he standing his wife. came constant satellite their for of unbounded " to interfere of in with . beheld and the starting dead might up. with Their columns to marble of emerald. polluted had slain. and v one banquettings title of veilings people gave them The that Happy. the art wonderful life was sagacity series of spending. and floors of the harem jasper. : Accursed his the constant exclamation 'their glances and the are daggers. that his roof be by murder. himself closed Suddenly the whom and a recommended scuffle. The fiyeh Kunaof the Wakeel and (agent. desires. The story and forgets the for a time became this at tragic once incident. understood placed that this miracle performed his eyes.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and only a riches of happy first limited build by their palace. boon Hassan Kunafiyeh liver of the the companions. and Most re Their . over God. had lovely had maidens offered !' was and to tempting bestow hooriyehs upon his friend be women him. or exhibited the major-domo) most his young in of the friend. But wealth. delight at least the delight himself all the Hassan one the Kunafiyeh and had steadily restrained refused which * particular. 195 make which and to and had he feeble been of muscle. The work green bird the continued pair care was to were its effect . and was marvellous fountains. well most stocked ferocious and well guarded by acted the as eunuchs. Of course.

that of in fine. and. seemed these buffoon or. her was rosebud . fell in money. presentiany one. any added would damsel. her inspection. beauty. The cut-and-dry convey an poetical phrases the more East beauty than will of those scarcely this maiden. of a idea were was of astounding Her . at any . The Kunafiyeh remarkable to for sex. was asked once her. without bargaining. were her mouth of her pearls stature resembled . He was or for manners captivating the softer past the by nature meridian intended of . Hassan's and and her of to made her his concubine. life. and to a the Kunafiyeh her his a love with took bought house with own. but deficien no he was not aware. the her was moony.196 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. did not the circumstance being determined enjoy not his felicity in secret. . Persia the went to the and had the most to principal perfect see just received from 'damsel rand of her a age. the of a Upon market. He immediately man. and of rate. her so pomegranates could that heavy that scarcely rise from at once a sitting posture. and sold. her eyes nose a brilliant a gazelle like pillar of silver. her teeth strings whilst like she whole face. No wonder her. san Hashe names and his friend's Sometimes scarcely so notice that those he additions knew not . his handmaidens. being privileged of the the at admitted into (he apartment of slave. her to paid price harem. indeed. certain was day told the that Kunafiyeh Abu Taleb. dealer. had become of any lazy-minded. palm hips . with inquired and in if there case was any was marvellous upon beauty to be he he satisfied. he In obedience mention to was kind of to ment. for mean a of aspect. breasts like .

had Zeyneb her understood favored designs. to and pass with Taggar Mohammed youth each buying upon support merchandise a her time. of her veil. of to see From the mere description her master. who. at she and enamored ardently friend of longed him. partly When. of that she had the bought of with the the sons money of Effendi and the Hassan. went The one opportunity length shops occurred She the forth sat day to visit the of merchants. lighted and his pipe. she. came with a serving-man slowly said him. and blessed God for the at once of receiving that Effendi fortune on Hassan. and exhibited with full lustre her of countenance. her and sought only for One been means liberation servants from told her disagreeable in truth master. and stopped the of the Taggar.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. most wealthiest of of wealth. possession to that He spoke tenderly her. to the languid from youth. The all the dart love entered of He forgot wondrous to beauties him of as his harem . amazement. but she in her . at and partly no gazed from amorously indolence. bowed. the merchant stood honor his feet. whilst for on him. he his started heart. charming became youths. at riding shop down the bazar. to eat and grapes ? entitled the enjoy he her had the from bunch which paid for in the Zeyneb of her was market of Now another mind. on A mounted side to mule. Was he not as lord much and master to over the beauteous love as Zeyneb. placed His cushions servants lifted and him from his saddle. and not all his wealth purchase appeared the nothing. as if by accident. peerless turn if it could damsel. however. 197 account of them. affectation. the first paid attention dropped her.

come. eunuchs thee Follow therefore. and they will and put the and death. At length. from her eyes. to was where black of girl waited He arrived where to the residence admitted Zeyneb. refuses. to and acquire half hour.' my crime mistress.' . his newly-loved lady waited for him now impatience. responded heart Hassan. Zeyneb over enabled complete obedience to ascendancy to the youth. This adventure him to dispelled the came. and preceded Hassan into . on ' the that beholdest the divan. a in safety.' ' that will be a heavy my At these words boy. he but thought. and slave- repaired appointed conduct him place. with his Nothing. affected an talk with was neighbor. all the arts her stimulate not The creet dis- merchant. thoughts 1 head besides said thy 0 my at beloved. a consented to come receive him that with if he and promised he went alone. happiness in her . satiety. to in a order disturb thus. 'that if thou servants to doest not my bidding. will me. and his to exerted passion. and she. left his palace a night to an alone. I must be enter all thine the or not thine Take slay sword man and thou adjoining sleeping chamber. the of and recalled When vigor he of youth. the could interfere had other wicked those ' damsel of love. in them. I will call aloud.' all. away his exalted languor gloom to seventh heaven of delight. All had disappeared. evening. armed the sword. and Nay. she in his impassio entreaties.' So she took up a lamp.' fire flashed said she. and into large with- saloon. 'Know. pretended known to not to sex regard to him.196 VILLAGE LIFB IN EGYPT.

reply white soldiers crevices ? and his chattered. an for edict. knew neck countenance became visible. Kunafiyeh Hassan went started by road the another bearing covered the with he filled with leaves. Then story. capital. basket. stopped to question his face one him. and but not on Hassan the him. in. cheek the that sleeping his and caused him to roll round. the head They into agreed a the to trunk into them alone a and river basket. along in and streets of his to a see Some the of guards with mao crawling upon too darkness. thought. What by one said with done. of The sword descended. together Sultan and told how to him the consulted dispose had men of the body. rolled upon The the head of the treacherous Zeyneb floor. sleepmoved. with his a where the the Kunafiyeh lay ing. found a was night all was parading quiet. 199 the adjoining chamber. so and that was carry fishes was to the and cast them the should and whilst which the know the secret. to " heavy He load was his much back. was Then trickling the of the the noticed blood and between on of the smote Kunafiyeh the cheek. box. Ali his Mustafa. became terrified teeth that box.' fly settled raised the the ^ that man. As she she turned languishing with to glance towards and Hassan. who face towards wall. the Kunafiyeh. became better but at intoxicated to passion. Now that that it happened that the the Sultan.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. Hassan and dead issued their box. . the two waked his friend. He on 'It is sword of so kill than moment be a killed. the of all to Karumun private put lately slay even forbidding to slaves. and oranges.

of years. O soldiers. " the beginning.' some Meanwhile his the way. and him in one of be chambers of my palace let the damsel had passed he saw buried decently. Hassan had when was proceeded the distance and on and city gates moving ' reached the better country. cried aloud. disfor afraid ' of It will be at me. saying. calling to him dog. to dispose of this head once . ' and must be referred When the Sultan. imprison . and Upon and AH Mustafa. ' O . surrounded this.1 the Sultan the was and case his was suite came up. in tance. by relate her my death story. smote breast. is to a This serious business/ said he.' Whereupon the of Speak/ related from replied his own Sultan. bring him As the for this Kuna- fiyeh. disperse a Then through Sultan city." ' Am I invested of my ? ' with the sword thus of justice. who young his therefore compassionate. a said. and exclaimed. bearing oranges.and dismembered are the daughters people slain and in my Then despite the " KunaRyeh took courage from despair. with torchmen. head.1 he thought. stated. and the the the story Hassan. and and seek concealed treat for a man basket When containing thou before hast me. king and ! this woman came righteously me. and torches pursuit. under found him gently. Kuna- fiyeh even * story. him. headless trunk of the murdered 4 Zeyneb. ' if thou convince wilt thee the permit of my I will and innocence.900 TILLAGE LITE IN EGTTT. and The found officer caused the an examination be made. .

that In trufli indignation. he if the was made manifest before the prevent Kunafiyeh the should die. guards be reported and man with basket believe could that. in his she the exercise learned which . Isles. Hassan likewise. celibacy. He wealthy love-passages to of has do slaves with princesses. and had. to numerous. At length finds wise perfect and incomparable of the character in the marries Kadoogah. that the had after the to his arrest. against to Emerald country. not therefore. and from transported her distant Escaping earth. in daughters case. the sought place for the who will night tombs.' escaped So he across set the basket by the to roadside. or . to enamored country. always thraldom. over him. with but variety prevented His of surprising for a adventures. resting- But and when not approached to he found the gates a daring demand among the admittance. a he wandered the meeting wealthy. Accident interfered to execution. time are. . but. of merchants.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. intending he city by another way. the Meanwhile danger Kunafiyeh The the had morning been once more in the not of his life. 201 not to trouble down myself to go to the river. Karamun. both of set from nurse they out for Karamun. closed. Sultan been began murdered decreed. who which company him her laws of her condemned by course. of the an She magic old escapes art. re-enter and the the fields. every he is either he betrayed a falls into dire beauty queen the misfortune. noon in his reality. Those know not mechanism to of learn became a Eastern a romances be surprised as that female ginn of beheld Hassan he him slept. long from returning course. found.

they the were visited destro of delights and divider of companions. high no who but than who pardoned his and the elevated rank. to having length sent their come prosperity to their parents. and caused them until Karamun. . .90S VILLAGE LIFE III IfiTFT. the heart found the benefit time of eating of the bird. and truth only to discovered of the the This proved far was the not story told by the to was Kunafiyeh. a fellah. by the lived happily together. passed the women before bought so the the palace. head. other learned joy that son Sultan Ali. had green the thus younger of Daood the woodcutter. One of it. and In the due Hassan arrived at with Queen news Kadoogah of to brothers. Just as it of was about to take place. windows bearing of a basket oranges.

mentioning their whilst scarcely are anything protected worth by the Pyramids but are partially exempt be magnitude. " their norance Ig. the at Two of attention lately been at Sheikh Fadl . their Tricks " Incitements up Treasure-seeking of Magic A " Receipt Treasure for drying with Water " Artifices on Impostors" " Raids Fellah Burying " the Dead " Tax Treasure-seekers Belief Antiquarian Mischances Treasure-Trove. with of the monuments Egypt and the is still likely exception there : to an make. several of the propylsea .VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. relics which have of antiquity had never is merely attracted destroyed accidental. obelisk In Lower a Egypt. I pages have more than to once in the course of the foregoing which the has alluded the tremendous progress of ancient destruction made. and Cupidity Museum " Accidental of Success the " Dr. Destruction whom of ruined " Egyptian " Monuments of " The small Pyramids Demolition of of Ghlzeh the " By Arches Modern " Ghizeh " Attempted " Pyramid by Kings of Mycerinus " Proposition Popular " Care of " ancient Monuments Use of Antiquities Opinions Treasure-seekers. in not from that danger. " Abbott's Ring of his interesting " Moderation Fellahs Charms " Greediness " Citizens " Treasure-seeker's " Guide Wealth to " " Magicians of Clairvoyance Talbehs wonderful Ibn Khaldoun Buried ancient Nations " Berber " . the continued Upper Egypt of the it may most said existence precious temples travellers. pillar at of is now and Alexandria. 203 CHAPTER XVIII.

the still the " there. which were in the the time of of Salah- Their a destruction eunuch. Greek army. which considerable miners. cities. Pyramid. and as Cairo. to by certain persons the senseless demolish great pyramids. and irremediably gives of a grander idea of the architectural the labor to the ancient of Egyptians has been than for thousands in says an a years. ed-Deen. is the sent and least they began by the the Red three. pyramids work He used the stones that came from at small a in constructing of of by the Arches Ghizeh and worthy the the highest giants. superintendent was of the the buildings wall and it he who raised land which encircles those two Fostat.' Melek he Alaziz suffered of his Othman himself court. well wells as and the that the that built seen separates on citadel are Mount Mokattam. men. Nothing achievements which. admiration. and of the prince's was a man of considerable of the genius. some quarry- guidance principal destroy. one work emirs Karaof that He koush. Thebes have been tombs toppled have been down utterly by blasting. number of there small existed Ghizeh considerable destroyed was pyramids.' at Arab writer authority. capital. of court. ben-Yusuf to succeeded his father. and innumerable ruined. comparable the with those The are ' remains still to When be of pyramids destroyed Karakoush seen.904 TILLAGE LIFE III EGYPT. be persuaded people. of and the to of The under and Sultan the emirs sappers. down from they time built ' time ' expended pulling what of up. Formerly. the officers of his with orders camp They accordingly established their near .

eyes the monument itself. When we This look seem happened at 593 have (a. as exhausted as placed courage. or removing stones. wedges ropes made two worked below stones and and a levers. were trouble it cost drag single " I spoke offered to a of the inspectors. you that think you times succeed?1' sum His could answer for ten they an not . afar and off. pieces as said. could the fit it it before. and he confirmed what he said by oath. it still seems almost one intact. others When pulled one from the with fell it of frightful the noise. them ' the foot of the thus After having and well remained the a long money time encamped at at that place. and collected from every they side an immense at of workmen. If you one thousand and of was gold replace do of those blocks. been our it would to as if the pyramid but when must we have raise destroyed to its foundation. whom at entertained post in great They with remained all their eight months. out occupied order their followers carrying the given one them. look of the They pyramid. a 'Being which one day to witness down and to a of the extreme stone. cables. their they disposal. it shaking sunk were earth and so the deep it out mountains that in the ground to equally great exertions required blocks at get small again. been the stones that removed. only and succeeded demonstrating in in spoiling their own impotence.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. every Some day. with Then wedges. which resounded thereof. was. . they and broke cast these to pieces hill. were their strength the the and compelled to abandoned undertaking. 1196).d.' . 205 pyramid number expense. men after great with exertion.

what . but simply food lime-kilns. for the allow love injured This destroyed conduct considered of mischief. the ' the kings these watched preservation . fill the blow Queen's whole gunpowder. degree of advancement in the sciences they had reached. what European of even engineers have time to offered the bunglers Melek been Alaziz's proposed and thus abandoned in despair. be to The or object hopes for the * of of destruction would bigotry obtain finding treasure. all the call our to the reserved give us things of Besides. but the the considerations plan to on the proximity with now of Cairo caused be rejected not affright. species ages. we ancient to what nations of the learn. former with remains of the the In times/ care says over Abd-el-Latif. of monuments useful to are. In and our own days the same idea has to been do started. of the sketch of the history earth. of and every confirms remains experience testimony personal the to that of authority.] monuments These and also attention this world. the a wise they annals had many these In as first place. recall as the were. and truth of religion. to they of it depose the truth the revealed them what books are for such mentioned adds idols in the and the the nations that the man's adored sight of Koran. in studying them. chamber pile to It has with atoms. [This-EasternProtestantism is sensible * enough. and manners serve as warnings destiny they of the to a future. memory witnesses : of' past that Secondly. and of precious enemies were of antiquity of although the to declared statues or peoples do not mere reasons. which them colossal be work.TILLAGE LIFE IK EGYPT.

grandeur. cries !" beggar men pleads. who past.TILLAGE LIFB IN EGYPT. obeying all the impressi their caprice of terror and prejudices. in their eyes. edge knowl- satisfies the ' soul days of " But in these [the place in these eternal their days complaint standard the of in the have to unphilosophical critics.' to . and the implacable avenger . Abandoned their which the have fantasies. circum- Now. felt what poet said of wine-bibber " Where'er They The All see his eyes their glances to turn. and nobody has one troubled has been himself repress to own their caprices. they their and inspired ideas and as them the with nature false of foolish of of these were quity. the guardian of money buried at his feet. 207 was the acuteness of their these are minds. have no become only rule of conduct. framed remnants When they aspect perceived monuments colossal . Ganymedes him ' Thus to see whatever them an appeared sign of a to point out anything : at all was the hidden side to treasure they could not opening it to be the in the road of some a mountain without mass believing wealth : a wonderful was of colossal statue. their the prejudices current of their of natural blind inclinations. thoughts centered thing a sole object of and they the only capable has of charming a their : " hearts. are Fill up. bowls sparkling ' " the he brim. antiin the their whole their vows. been not in the to future] " reins given men. matters man. and of such-like which the stances. and from or knowing acting their check to men could impulse yielded prevent of to diem according passions. as Every to permitted thus to their act seemed good which him.

the Among openings it is only that attract to their enter attention by are some or in which shuffling work possible . unhappy wretches are at length misery.306 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. poor. caves certain circumstances which and under contribute sustain earth to strengthen their then in cupidity they their vast Now solidly of and built. whilst crawling. rewarded for their stupid credulity are by frightful 'There really courage. They and had recourse to statues all . some who well to do in the lost all they already and as had go in to these fruitless men researches others. greedy men 1 Among were the of world : whom have we speak. inflame hints and their secrets well they of. and as excite by their cupidity oaths. backwards to in others it is necessary only the to face person the can ground. and profane to by of be to which possessors their the money profess Thus their have cause discovered their at sole they reason victims same lose and the time . which deposited . split. thus and an often entrance. find are which have enclosed been immense there numbers corpses. of any of attempt artifices the to against to it. and on opportunities. to nothing. obtain attacks example. like and who upon people feared who by hoped more thus vigorous have draw bored be ruin holes strong who are themselves. blocks They stone. ends. sorts destroy for their to disfigure these mutilating faces. filled house the immense way snap ' like thieves the enter ever by watch any to rather at than door.open them " and to in solid boxes a of with imagining sums. very of slimmest these effect Many in the openings leading are merely natural fissures mountains. wealthy hopes.

Dr.' worthy Doctor Mowaffik then goes on to say that small quantities of gold. opinion might of have Government as purchase it. perhaps. Abusir. coins are Even gold time now rings. or them them make garments for themselves. The ring the in the most possession authentic Dr. than of the fellahs know give price of the gold. and possesses complete beautiful ancient collection of the more fragile had it been spoils of Egyptian perhaps to civilization public . jewels. and well. mouths of corpses in cemetery present.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. I like on write this because subject. The when Bedawins they have Arabs take and away use shrouds to to any solidity. explains for it by the the very that have been offered by amateurs. European a before museum shipping the Atlantic. ornaments. as from the to time. I may mention. transference huge obelisk to to on I know not which fashionable square. travellers. and Among the or precious other stones. of been owner way. use thereof paper for the The of grocers. taken from instances. that a the invaluable has collection summer which sent to not this ring forms part a this America been direct. had he been mentions the at occasionally lingots of found. Abbott has his . 209 at very distant of of periods. Abbott that can of Cairo be is. rather of and to more Sakkarah. who make else sell paper-manufacturers. instead in the wasting was once proposed. some These in as bodies much and are as wrapped a in ghrouds canvass. It is great to pity show that its it in No has encouraged it across so at least England. sold discovered who. which specimen large sums cited. thousand yards these cloth. of a in London. and exhibited forced money.

probably Dr. of also land. to the Hall. have been However. and out of El-Berqeh stone on remain at Shabour. in got at "by the aid of powerful desire of riches. soon his time and away he devoted Most his money museum to intercepting them. the people stores still profoundly throughout to in the existence the of hidden however. beneath. Abbott's we purchased to in America . or would have been smashed private their dispersed (inthose collections which friends. will be not hateful of litters. of his specimens to atoms.910 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. and may not envy its possession the future confess depositories that it would of civilization. treasure-seekers To return. of Egypt In spite of the sensible six hundred believe wealth continue view by taken of the some subject. for the part inhabitants of cities. although of a kingdom is buried time most to From time. As. only talismans. bold and impious men. has not been removed. by over in this the whole time world or in part. they rarely. in had garrets). years ago. The undisturbed a marvellous . the huge which to cock comes every night from underground the wealth chant. and stow travellers bring 'home to astonish thrifty housewives. to me I must to see pleasant this singularly to a rich assortment seems of curiosities transferred have been place 'but which to " to built for the purpose. ruined debau- . suffer themselves spite of their excessive to be troubled by longings treasures that cannot be accomplished. they believe that buried money and is under can the be guardianship of supernatural beings. however. Abd-el-Latif. of permanent have been long in search employment the Egyptian however. conscience the destruction Most of no temple or tomb.

by an The public mind is entertain immense on number of by of that have been wealth composed the receipts which these concealed points out may all the be be discovered. sensualists.1 who. gave the these gentlemen covering advice thus a : evidently paper ' wise sorcerer. are a The generally where more employed men these the West. assistance excavations with it is said. return I think. or confirmed of been magic. occasions from Maghrebbis. and if it be there !' my last residence in Alexandria I heard . the from country belief in supernatural than in agencies and who is even still sends other deep-rooted whole troops than to Egypt. of a and will probably of love. 211 chees. of Egypt all the name One where means in detail places and a researches necessary be may to profitably made. undertake crowned having sought that the have. day bring pennyworth Sitt Madoula by the professed one to have found " a lost spoon a aid of of for.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. Guide. room he " where it is stolen spoon was During last seen. said to I bought have the of paper curiously the inscribed. be ' adopted. affections virtue ten a of constraining of the one fair. arts of living prepared treatises of them magic. the to pangs love by a prophecies slip construction of charms. make magical of a computations ascertain the or whereabouts soothe the stolen of slipper or a stray or goat. It bears that may translated I have seen The Treasure-seeker's of these to men. magicians frequently on success. after his with Search strange in the not figures. with when the several one are they cannot find any of the to disposed content meddle to strong boxes ginn. which have no forth means of the adventurers. It cost me paras.

Solitude. chapter in an old Arab writer. were Some taken persuaded which Levantines. for neutralize of the their power.' was What in his trke I great De Sacy's they wisdom. that a the search means buried wealth is not becoming sense some natural of appears mouth gaining to us livelihood mere and common rich. principal Thus. by spend to a time. details would apply 'Among found ardor many the who the inhabitants of weak of great mind. destroy magical of them. they the gold pieces brimming' Ibn-Khaldoun. sacrifice of victims. of contains and discovery believe ancient the hope fortune. I had young no fresh danger eternal the fire same incur. has a curious his 'Historical ' Prolegomena' for treasures in support and a of the thesis. translation. in hand to were circumcised a Subtle of money from Fez. proper to and conjurations. extract of his remarks nearly our own from because exactly in to all their days. the inhabitants . of certain charm .212 TILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. with to fill about hundred jars seem gold. have produced imagined that they absolutely over. confided talismans these to guard. such and an saw drugs. These good folks the earth all the the and riches of nations. and good deal a in incantations. and a was strongly placer. mans talis- it is necessary employ such as are first to know and then fumigations. cities of example. urged take attack on very of about rich Being to heretic. that to and put under the seal. effect and upon perfumes. them. several reports to a of part hidden in an treasures. cities who in only the there are people desire the with discovery found on of such treasures buried their that earth.

Many make weak-minded excavations at individuals take the to bait. the art having knowledge of magic.VILLAGE LIFS IN EGYPT. under who the reigned earth books before treasures. 213 the province there of Africa the imagine Muslims. and have swords. and protect to them they from punishments persecutions which become liable perform for unlawful proceedings. In the the Maghreb Berbers. that by make who the researches. means great number no of Talbehs. where was making excavations. knowing a trade and having proper of gaining livelihood. treasures. are Persians. Greeks. concealed inscribed order to their notes and in certain the of these deposits. reached the deposited to which been or talisman unknown them. resembling in were On this romances. have in that the Franks. and certain papers with pretend barbarous them original they seek to characters be the Arabic writing. among no who. to scared else by the spectres earth brandishing and such naked threatened that up. in order escape . It is said certain places people. They often without tricks any real and pretended of incantations. subject many have of adventures that related. trembled of swallow them A multitude ' fables are are a current. until a preserve knowledge of thereof favorable opportunity offers a withdrawing conduct them. In the to eastern provinces the similar and the is attributed the Copts. and the night. they have They made such translations hidden of means the records to of treasures. By the extract something exciting require them a from to persons whom they address. pretending their and such they patron will share profits. exhibit or make acquaint with covered rich persons.

recourse is imagination had to search for unlimited the treasure. spirit of to 'which incite these researches. Their up to their vain hasten projects. When they of they not find know nothing.214 TILLAGE LIFE IN BGTPT. to they make seek some incantation efficacy sufficient the earth temporarily . to when natural unsuccessful. and citizens whole of minds a great are Cairo.9 the causes.' men Among pursues to this philosophical is the of writer. attention of the magistrates they say and the police.and to whenever upon caravan arrives facts they put questions treasures. in hopes some Among the their earth that topics conversation to is how may most be made hidden absorb water. one that of alchemy. means Instead that would of be too expensive. to was that the it is because guardianship did the what talisman treasure ' confided. The is excited trouble an by idea of acquiring gratify who that once without immense fund. and this excuse is one often by the magicians of having they recourse employ. which who that will enslaves greedy yield lust of to enjoyment Thus are those it. with inhabitants of discourse all the of Talbehs gathering of the Maghreb profitable a common they meet. are because they bed think of the treasures buried given in the Nile . luxury such an and a taste for the enjoyments resources life pushed cannot excess a that ordinary suffice. longer be When satisfied mind by the desirous legitimate some of pleasure returns can no of labor. those undertake men these unlawful to research generally accustomed pleasure cities given " and as easy life. courtiers for example. extraordinary connected on with hidden on being equally Thus fanatical the this subjectas of Cairo whom hints.

a Sacrifice bird over this talisman. For a this taste reason they they study have ardently inherited their for which have and Pharaoh to a from their ancestors. thou art and the the counsels which that I give. man* mimicking of -the letter ta.and forms let him quite stand them. which well-instructed '"Cast with aside which to all lying others receipts have and deceptive books.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. man listen to the words utters. to over So. a The magicians is proof of the application ' of the ancient in the the Wise Egyptians Maghreb this art. . Upon " . then and rub it with the blood of the victim . of verses. doctrines. the absorption 4 " of water who is brought to Thou to be desirest learn the secret of causing water a absorbed. use of the the talisman a man Draw figure of whose hands hold the letter well-rope. filled their to and lend an ear my discourse. 215 swallow up the the art river. and make fumigation of incense. without the step of a prudent the whole touching cautious and a Surround than a with a line: square is better ' " circle. who left traces other of proficiency history of the in their Berbis of edifices. imagina- troubled make ' " uncertain following the means : of execution. of magic. thou a When wouldest which cause to be to absorbed the the waters of well and inspire on affright tion. of truth. his breast trace the form times more: as of the ha. follow ' " if haply not of number of those falsehood. Trace it as many no it is lawful divorce the [three times]. There is current to copy East by there tains attributed an Men of the It which con* account of the magical processes about.

white or red. of general thrust calamity their The riches which into duced in- thus care name to the earth under under the of talismans. and without yellow. and They have many terms.916 VILLAGE LIFI IN EGYPT. Saturday. which are They reported take to lodgings be built palaces over hidden treasures. and easily dug are deep. stains. modern men in consequence no of premeditated in ancient has or There times. are only turned up chance. is a example. researches." ' ' 1 believe. extraordinary which men practices in the strange technical their art they employ exercise of Other push in houses their or deceptions further. in the are place their signs to to conformable guide make books supposed required them. and to those having which dupes. of large sums. been It is that and sometimes not found. the the moon well explained. of * red. money. of silk. The on a time gives of light moon be at joined to the hour fortune Mercury." the in the traditions. when you perform this operation. invention that the this copy of is gratuitous of impostors. suffer themselves cheated are 'But all these doings on no founded on no positive true knowledge. " M Then cover it with any two trace a covering of green. but rarely accidentally. treasures and have and tradition. or blue. advances Their of who are always by warmed the these corroborations of the of testimony and by strange jargon to' be magicians.' .' verses continues a Ibn Khaldoun. red. be u All above this must the when done as when it has the sign been no of die Lion rises at the must horizon. ' " without Tie a it with pure strings of woollen thread. but buried the Arabs by in time of Paganism. " treasures spoken were of the by of Rakiz.

country. ever In been are consequence. likewise. found the occasionally. political economist. May God preserve from such lusion de- !' The seem preachings to of no Abd-el-Latif effect and in Ibn-Khaldoun checking the have have had whatever unreasonable thirst for easy-won gold.VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. ancient They con* sist of with other the the riches " Egyptians gold and buried their dead coffins of of silver. in silver. 217 After some sensible wealth. treasure-seeker that when in consequence become under were the last reign a the also various put on branches those wealth. of treasure-seeking that country was this writer in Egypt proceeds : The in the is to be ten found that to during buried thousand dead years with and subject all their precious the Egyptians. who their possessions stones. As I . away which immense were from tombs interior and the of kings. carried pyramids. When the empire of the Egyptians masters to extract sums destroyed. in diamonds. burden fell upon and who spent their time fortune us in vain researches. other The Greeks. living by tax was gained This their seeking imbeciles for and these hidden fools. to according the the custom of was ancient nations. of the sepulchres riches. and they Persians the became of the these opened indeed. after the Persians. and objects. these to ancient since some supposed contain hidden treasures and actually which vases. tombs did have . who of industry taxed. places. the and. people of with Accounts a these these discoveries researches. observations which show on the to * origin be a and distributionof him good origin fact. inspired The so taste for has trade common. in gold.

without or and learned allowance complain bitterly. an supposed thesaurus. who like thieves rake that their for be wealth. feigned stupidity. though not among the fellahs. it would but another if they found pot the of gold only be on from beating them by authorities. aperture of inexhaustible to a and they not yet know pine that taken with desire possess it It it true. believ of profoundly smile believe that it is impossible at get at it . ignorance. from Antiquarians this have suffered many due much inconvenience delvers prejudice . inflicted and Sometimes on they fear vengeance impertinence violence or will their district for the with in of strangers. therefore to interfere. END. and come with contempt to the up greedy soil citizens. .218 VILLAGE LIFE IN EGYPT. of right would bring a to force confession the no imaginary Government pot. moderation making for popular properly those appreciating wretches. throw obstacles the way of all excavators. people. to cover half-naked the not and half-fed. to a the law that restricted Rakiz of the fifth of the being longer respected. These in also the simple existence whilst buried to profoundly gold. said. upon a the who stone philosophical will sit of poor down. treasure-seekers abound.