Bearghan

Copyright 2004 Pat Liles
Instructions tested and typed
by Chris Simon

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H hook or size needed Ior gauge.

Eyes (make 2):
With black, ch 4, join with sl st to Iorm ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 11 dc in ring. Finish oII.
Rnd 2: Join white with sl st in any st. Ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc
in each st around. Join with sl st to beginning ch 3. Cut yarn,
leaving 2 Ioot tail Ior sewing later. Do not weave ends yet.

Nose:
Row 1: With black, leaving long starting tail - about 3 Ieet - Ior
sewing later, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch Irom hook.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. 2 dc in same st. 2 dc in next st.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same st. Dc in next 4 sts. 2 dc in last
st.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same st. Dc in next 6 sts. 2 dc in last
st. Cut yarn, leaving 3 Ioot tail Ior sewing later. Do not weave
ends yet.

Muzzle:
Special stitch: long dc - when making dc, draw up stitch about
50° taller than usual. The long dcs will cause the muzzle to be
oval rather than round.

Note: Muzzle will not lay Ilat. We will be stuIIing it later when
we join it to the bear's Iace.
With muzzle color, ch 3, join with sl st to Iorm ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 11 dc in ring. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in next dc. 3 long dc in next st.
2 dc in each oI next 2 sts. 3 dc in next st. 2 dc in each oI next 2
sts. 3 long dc in next st. 2 dc in each oI next 3 sts. Join with sl st
in beginning ch 3. (27 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in each oI next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st, 3 long dc
in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each oI next 8 sts, 2 dc in next
st, 3 long dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each oI next 7 sts.
Join with sl st to beginning ch 3. (35 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st. Sc in next 11 st. Holding top edge oI
nose together with top edge oI muzzle, sc through both pieces
in next 10 sts. Sc in muzzle only in next 13 sts. (35 sts) Join
with sl st to beginning sc. Cut yarn, leaving a 3 Ioot tail Ior
sewing later. Do not weave ends yet.
AIter joining top oI nose to muzzle:
Using long tail Irom top edge oI nose, sew down side oI nose,
tacking nose to muzzle, with tip oI the nose at the center oI the
muzzle. Stitch up the other side oI the nose. Finish oII.
Using long tail Irom tip oI nose, sew a mouth Ior the bear. You
can use a running stitch straight down Irom tip oI nose Ior two
rows, then leIt along the curve between rounds 2 and 3 oI muz-
zle Ior halI oI bear's smile. Reverse direction and Iill in the gaps
back to the center oI mouth, then go right and back to center to
complete smile, then straight up to tip oI nose again. Finish oII.

Head:
This is an asymmetric granny square. It's made in a slightly
unusual way to make one corner less pointed Ior top oI the
bear's head.
Rnd 1: Make ring around Iinger with yarn. Working in ring, ch
3, 2 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) 3 times. Join with sl st to beginning ch
3.
Rnd 2: Sl st in next 2 st, sl st in corner ch 1 sp. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2,
2 dc) in same sp. Dc in next 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp
2 times. Dc in next 3 st, 3 dc in corner sp, dc in next 3 sts. Join
with sl st in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 3: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 5, dc) in same sp.
(Dc in next 7 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner sp) 2 times. Dc in next
3 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc
in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts. Join with sl st in
beginning ch 3.
Rnd 4: Sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc
in next 9 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next 9
sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 9 sts. Join with sl st in
beginning ch 3.

Rnd 5: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in
same sp. (Dc in next 13 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times.
Dc in next 12 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 12 sts. Join
with sl st in beginning ch 3.


(Continued on page 2)
Bearghan
Page 2
Rnd 6: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in
same sp. (Dc in next 17 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times.
Dc in next 15 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 15 sts. Join
with sl st in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 7: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 5, dc) in same cor-
ner. (Dc in next 21 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in
next 18 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 18 sts. Join with
sl st in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 8: Sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc
in next 23 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next
21 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 21 sts. Join with sl st
in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 9: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 5, dc) in same cor-
ner. (Dc in next 27 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in
next 24 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 24 sts. Join with
sl st in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 10: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc)
in same sp. (Dc in next 29 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2
times. Dc in next 26 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 26
sts. Join with sl st in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 11: Sl st in next st, sl st into corner. (Ch 5, dc) in same
corner. (Dc in next 33 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc
in next 27 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 27 sts. Join
with sl st in beginning ch 3.
Rnd 12: Sl st into corner. (Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp. (Dc
in next 35 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner) 2 times. Dc in next
31 sts, 3 dc in next st (corner), dc in next 31 sts. Join with sl st
in beginning ch 3. Finish oII.
The two "square" sides oI square should measure about 12
inches. II necessary, you may add or delete rows to accomplish
this.

Right ear:
Join with sl st in 8th st to the leIt oI top oI head.
Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each oI next 10 sts. (11 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in same st as ch 3 and next st. Dc
in next 3 sts, decrease in next 2 sts. Dc in next 2 sts. Decrease
in last 2 sts. (9 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in same st as ch 3 and next st. Dc
in next st, decrease in next 2 sts. Dc in next 2 sts. Decrease in
last 2 sts. (6 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in next 2 sts, decrease in next 2 sts,
decrease in last 2 sts. Finish oII. (4 sts)
Left ear:
Join with sl st in 18th st to the right oI top oI head.
Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each oI next 10 sts. (11 sts)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in same st as ch 3 and next st. Dc
in next 2 sts, decrease in next 2 sts. Dc in next 3 sts. Decrease
in last 2 sts. (9 sts)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in same st as ch 3 and next st. Dc
in next 2 sts, decrease in next 2 sts. Dc in next st. Decrease in
last 2 sts. (6 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Decrease in next 2 sts, decrease in next 2 sts,
decrease in last 2 sts. Finish oII. (4 sts)





Underarms (make 2):
You can Iind instructions Ior making a halI granny square here:
http://crochet-mania-grannysquare.blogspot.com/2008/09/halI-
granny-square-motiI.html
Make as written, completing 6 rows.

Between legs:
Make halI granny with 8 rows.










(Continued on page 3)


Bearghan
Page 3
Body:
Bearghan body can be made with twenty 6 inch squares or Iive
12 inch squares.
Assemble squares as shown to Iorm bear's body, arms, legs, and
head.






Add halI granny squares Ior underarms and between legs.








Add edging oI your choice to complete bearghan. For this bear-
ghan, I used three rounds oI single crochet, plus one round oI
single crochet alternating with picot stitches. The picot stitches
give the bear a nice Iurry look. Increase and decrease as needed
to keep edging smooth around corners.








Sew on eyes and muzzle, using photo as a guide. StuII muzzle
lightly with polyIill as you sew it onto the Iace. Weave in any
loose ends.






I have been asked many times by email which square patterns I
used in creating the purple/blue/pink bear, so here's the answer!
right hand - Pinwheel
leIt hand - Cable Hearts
right leg - Ad Astra
leIt leg - Tilt-a-Whirl
tummy - Eternal Braid

These Iree patterns by Chris Simon are all available at
yarncrazy.com.