Premiers Issr le




Table Saw Accessories Shop-Built Router Table a Tips for Accurate Crosscutting - Elu Router Review





I 1

Douglas L. HKks WH~GINC E ~ T O R Teny J. Strohman n s a s r r n T EDITOR Behard S. Peters


Gordon Gaippe Phillip A. Totten Tirn Robertson

%d&ali~ek Cary Chnstensen I u u n l u r o R Kurt Sehultz ~~N~IWTIN luus. O Chns Giowaeki Robert H. Whitpler DESION DIREOIOR Ken Munkel DE81ONER J b Hale Svec m n w I I A P l l E a Crayda England w o e n Steve Curtis


Llz Bredeson Sandy Baum J h W00dsC Kent A. Buc


PaulE. Gra
JdknIX? Sp Dougl& M. Cheryl E Scof Lori %her Ken W t h





~ ASST. ~



Robert Murry Lwhe Ann Gearhart kmdaJones r E c n N l a L SUP~DRT Jonathan Garbison C u s i w E a s E a v l C E Linda Morrow, Mgr. Laura Bathe-McNelly Jennie Enos JoyJohnson


lanmJuhl DZarei Hoob~. J w &r~0n,SUP GloriaSheeBaa Ilonald &mg

he premiere issue of a new magazine sets the stage for all the ideas and stories to be told in the years to come. This first issue of ShqnNotes was born of a trait common to all woodworkers. . . we like to talk about our shops, the tools we use, the techniques, and the way things work. That's what you'll find in ShopNotes. The whole idea is to have a magazine that's dedicated entirely to your shop. If you like working in your shop, even when you're not building a particular project, maybe just puttering around, this magazine ought to appeal to you. IDEAS. When we f r s t started talking about the idea of this new magazine, we were in the Woodsmith shop. (Woodsmith is a magazine for woodworkers that has plans for building furniture and small projects, and the techniques that go along with them.) As we looked around the shop, we began talkmg about all the tips, shop projects, and new ideas that could he in ShopNotes. ROUTER TABLE.For example, in this issue we're featuring an all-new design for a router table. This all started with the router table shown in Woodsmith almost 10 years ago. We've built a lot of projects on that old table, and we've had a lot of ideas for improving the original design. The new Router Table is presented in a way so you can choose the parts of the table that work best for you. Build just the table top with the phenolic insert, or build the


new fence with the T-slot for addmg accessories. (If you don't build anything else, the fence is worth looking at.) As a bonus in this premiere issue, we've also added a special plans section for an enclosed router table cabinet. JIGS AND ACCESSORIES. The one area that arobablv has the most interest ?or wodhworkers are the special jigs and accessories that help you get the most out of your tools. In this issue we're showing three accessories for your table saw. And in future issues we will show jigs for your band saw, drill press, radial arm saw, router, and a l l the other tools in your shop. TOOLS. AS we began talking about tools themselves, it started a little controversy. How should we approach tool reviews? We didn't want to list all the routers, for example, on the market a with chart compruing their features. This approach makes it tough to get a sense for any one tool and how it operates. So we decided to select one tool in this issue, (the Elu Plunge Router) and concentrateon it with a fullfledged discussion about what we like and don't like. This indepth approach should tell you exactly what we think about the tool. TECHNIQUES. And, finally, in every issue we want to highlight a particular woodworking technique. This time it's a collection of ideas and tips on how to get the best performance when crosscutting on the table saw. THEFUTURE. I hope you enjoy this premiere issue of ShopNotes. I'm looking forward to its future.






Jigs and Accessories Elu Plunge Router Crosscutting Table 5 aw Cabinet Router Table Router Table Top Router Table Fence

Elu Plunge Router

Three table saw accessories: Small-Piece Clamp, Push Block, and Table Saw Jointing.

page 10

The Elu #3338plunge router is put to the test andcomes out a real winner.


Problems involved with crosscutting on the table saw and helpful tips on solving them.

This simple cabinet mounts to the side of a table saw providing storage for blades, a rip fence, various accessories, and even a miter gauge.


This router table is loaded with options starting with a very simple base. (As a special bonus we've included a set of plans for an enclosed router cabinet.)


page 12

The sandwich construction of the top provides a heaw vibration-free worksurface.Andallowsasmooth surface for the miter gauge slot and the remov&e inserf plate.

Sliding faces allow you to vary the bit opening to fit the bit you Y e using. The T-slot makes attaching accessories quick and easy

Fence Accessories


A bit guard, free-hand guard, aflustabte featherboard, and shop vacuum attachment make the router table safer and easier to use.

Table Saw Cabinet

page 14

Five shop-tested tips: A Sprlng-Loaded Sanding Block. A Woodscrew Tip. Sawhorse Tray.Pipe Clamp Rack. And a Magnetic Tool Bar.

Book Review
A look at The Worksho.~ Book by Scott Landis,




Hardware, project supplies, and mail order sources for the projects in this issue.

A slot cut in the spreader allows you to adjust the distance between the jaws so you can cut different size pieces. A carriage bolt and wing nut at the other end provide the clamping pressure. locking After the slot is cut. Rather than take any pieces is chances. When the nut is tightened down on the bolt. 1. After the bolt is installed. Then make thread on a washer and wing nut. 2. first margin on the opposite page. from the blade."arms" hold the workpieces setaches to your curely and keep my fingers away miter gauge. To atthe spreader. 2. hanger bolt into the end of the S~~~ADERThespreaderhas back a jaw. a front jaw. first locate the holes for end of the front jaw. Set the miter gauge at go'.wing nut.) drill a 3h"hole 21h" from the end. Use this simple The idea of the jig is that two clamp that at. 1 . see Detail in Fig. I made a clamp jig that easywhen You attaches to my miter gauge. 1. and of the spreader fits over a hanger bolt audis tightened down with a place the back jaw against the SPREADER DETAIL %" x 2" x 1 5 " HANGER BOLT SHANK HOLE 4 1 ShopNotes No. (To insert slot in one end to make the clamp the hanger bolt. it pinches the two jaws together like a vise to hold the workpiece in place as you make a cut. see Fig. refer to tip in end of the front jaw in place. see Fig. two parallel cuts up to the hole When you tighten the wing nut. R CONS~UCTION I began work on the clamp by cutting the two jaws and the spreader from 3/4"-thick hard. see Fig. 2a. 1. see Fig. To cut this slot.- JIGS AND ACCESSORIES ecently I was building aproject that required cutting several small pieces on the table Cutting small saw. with a band saw or sabre saw. drill conn. The clamp consists of three pieces: a back jaw. Screw a wood.The slotted end the screws. see Fig. tersunk shank holes at one end of A m H I N G T H E CLAMP. and screw i t to the tach the clamp to the miter gauge. and an adjustable spreader that connects the two jaws. it pinches the spreader. HANGERBOLT.

miter gauge. Note: When clamping pieces wider than I". e. To prevent this. Then slide the clamp over so the end touches the saw blade. * No.. . insert the workpiece between the jaws at the right end of the clamp.the top edge of the jaws may tip in. Then counterbore a hole to accept the head of the bolt. cut a spacer the same width as the workpiece. . . Mark Dhe position of the bolt on the back jaw. 1 ShopNotes 5 . drill a 114"hole through both jaws for the carriage bolt. Now mark the position of the two screw holes in the back jaw. A carriage bolt is used to close the jaws around the workpiece at the right end of the clamp. Finally. and tighten the wing nut on the carriage bolt. 4. Next. ~h6. see Fig.. IIS1Nfi THE CLAMP Touse the clamp. 3. ~. Now screw the clamp to the miter gauge. and tighten the wing nut. see Fig. Then tighten the nut. . and driu pilot holes. insert the carriage bolt and washer. . 3. and insert it b e tween the top edges of the jaws. see Fig.loosenthe wing nut on the spreader (at the left end of the clamp). and adjust the jaws to the width of your workpiece.n use a wren& to screw the holt in. 90insert a 2@ng@ bolt. 4a. thread two nuts o n t h shaft and tighten t h m togethtrr.. . see Fig.

Then cut the handle to shape on a band saw. Now. The handle is attached to the 2x4 body and the heel with a drywall screw. lay out the shape shown in Fig.) This push block has three parts: a replaceable main body (a scrap piece of 2x4). la. thick stock will do. BODY AND HEEL. Start by cutting the handle blank 31/2" wide by 9" long. It should be designed to solve common problems when ripping. ' n g a good -" 7. 1 on the blank. so it's worth . a Masonite heel that hooks over the end of the workpiece. (See box on next page. HANDLE. Yet. and round over the sharp edges by filing them smooth. see Fig. and a handle. you can reuse the handle (the part that takes the time to make). When the NOTCHED SECCION 9 ' The handle for the push block is cut from a piece of scrap 2x4 Just lay out the shape and cut the handle to size b I F v C I No. 1 . A good push block is probably one of the most important acces sories for your table saw. Drill a shank hole for this screw at a slight angle (about 5') so when the screw is into the notch in the handle. The handle is the key to the whole system.up replaceable.

la. Instead. you don't have to replace them. see Fig.I JIGS AND ACCESSORIES - For the body. 2. Then serew them together with a drywall screw. set the parts on a flat surface and clamp them together. cut a scrap piece of 2x4 7"-long. see Fig. 3. see Fig. To assemble the push block. see Fig. ai v n ~ r IN r SCREW AND MOVE THE SCREW. The heel is cut from apiece of 1/4"-thickMasonite so it's the same width [or even slightly less) than the body. 1 ShopNotes 7 . and extends 1 4 " below the bottom edge of the body. clamp and screw themtogether. ASSEMBLY. ShopTip: I used a drywall screw because it doesn't need a pilot hole. ShopTip: Since the body and heel will get chewed up. just flip both parts. it's a good idea to cut several of these pieces and keep them on hand for replacements. This is especially handy when it comes time to replace the heel and body. 3a. No. When the body and heel get chewed up. HEN FLIPHEEL ( - .

Thispositions the front of the strip directly over the center of the blade -which provides the maxi- M I I1I NOTE: JOINTER FENCE EXTENDS B . Next a piece of Masonite is glued to one end of the plywood to become the ontfeed side. cut the plywood 12" longer than the length of your rip fence and temporarily clamp the plywood to your fence. As a workpiece is pushed over the knives. MASONITE. 1. ' PAST RIP FENCE ON BOTH ENDS 8 ShopNotes No.To make it easier to joint long pieces. see Fig. see photo above. The secret is converting your rip fence into the infeed and outfeed tables.) To determine the length of the Masonite. An outfeed table is set flush with the knives to support the workpiece and prevent the knives fromtakingtoo deep a cut. just adapted to the table saw. On a jointer. Note: This "jointer" takes off l/sU per pass. You canuse this same principle to convert your table saw into a simple jointer. a workpiece i pushed along an infeed table which & . 1 . (Note: I used l/8" Masonite since it's thickness is the same as most carbide-tipped saw blades. All it takes is a strip of 3/4"-thick plywood and a piece of Masonite. Converting your rip fence for jointing is easy. measure from the back end of the plywood strip to the center ofthe saw blade. PLYWOOD.Converting your table saw into a jointer isnt as d@ ficult as you might think you build this special fence. Start by ripping a strip ofplywood 4"-wide. they cut the wood and joint the edge. ore thanone eyebrow was raised in the shop when I mentioned that there was a way to joint the edge of a piece of wood on the table saw. set slightly lower than the jointer knives. I t works on the same principle as a jointer.

Or. To do this. 6. Then rlidc the rip fence over so it buus lap against the blade. 4. see Fig. In either case. 5. Now turn on the saw and slowly raise the blade up into the Masonite to a height of 2" (this allows you to joint wood 2" thick). and adjust the fence so the the Masonite is flush with the saw square just touches the outside edges of the teeth on the saw blade. But before you do this. first clamp the p l ~ ~ \ ~ r u u d fence to your rip fence. refer to 1:i~. re-adjust the fence. see Fig. 1 . * d munl ~ I I Ianrl ex])osej the' tni11lnlutn alnourlt of blade. see Fig. place the blade of the try whenever you use this "jointer" fence). ADJUST FENCE. SOIV cut 21 4"-vide ?trip of J h smite LO lcnyh n~id gh~e it m t h e pl)lrrowl stlip. SAW TOOT^^ A try . 1. f r s t blade. next step is to cut a recess in the pl~wood ft~icefin thC saw blade. the blade. seeFig. if the workpiece catches on the Masonite.a. To prevent the blade from pinching against the plywood fence. move the fence over an additionallhe". lower the blade. you'll need to adjust the square against the face of the Maposition of the fence so the f a n of sonite. and raise the blade again. Lower the blade and move the fence to the left an additional 1/sM. the blade may be sticking out too far. see Fig. Then. the blade is in too far. src: Fig. see Fig. cur ~ C E S S The . 2.iqu(lrtl can hr ic. No. 4a. you find that the workpiece pivots in towards the fence. Note: If after you've adjusted the fence. After you've check to make sure the rip fence cut the relief in the plywood (and is square to the saw table. 2 . 3.wd to q~lickly aligtz the l ~ b l sw t j~ir~tcvtuith.

and shelf and use it. you to select a speed from 8. re. wrist-twisting torque you'd explunge cuts with the precision of After completing the cut. You have to loosen the nylon bushings. land. I rarely turn the meed un nast the Level specinl features. In(the same tolerances specified for safely above the workpiece until stead. . By comparison. push the motor ELECTRONIC CONTROL. AS and exit the workpiece at exactly housing down the guide rods until soon as you turn on the router. 2% h.000 RPM). 90". And -it's quiet. electronic plunge speed option on the Elu. the Elu makes start routing. the cut. By using great for routing stopped dadoes. and can be reached without let. motor.000 RPM. vou'd Elu motor is quieter than " ~h~top-of-the.) It wasn't until the It's quieter. or use a pair of its variable speed motor. but I 1iGe the slowest speed the Elu line of tools is still manufactured in Switzerwith bits that make partial cuts (like a round-over bit). again.000 RPM. expensive material that is self-hMOTOR DEPTHADJUSTMENT bricating and has incredible wear resistance).The slightest amount of side. loaded with Plunge routers aren't hardwoods.only the speed necessary to make mortises. ting go of the handle. the height of the of the Elu until you take if off the match the turning speed to the bit changes just a fraction. the speed is electronically most router bits). I t allows bit height. it won't bog down in and are turned to tight tolerances rods . and 1951. When really appreciate the engineering able speed motor is to be able to you retighten it. the electronic circuitry takes to-side play can ruin the a Swiss watch.keeping the spinning bit the middle of a heavy cut. SOwhat does cutting performance. with just slight down. 1 . my kitchen blender.expect something special. The idea of a reaches a pre-selected depth.fyou were to pay almost At the slowest speed. you turn the router off. This Then lock the plunge lock lever over. turning a t 22.material and the size of bit you're you need toset the height all over dles.pect from a of using the Elu plunge the level you selected.p. plunge router is router. This "soft problem on some plunge routers. you Even when working with get . the $300 for a router. (Black and Decker frequently I use the Level 1 purchased Elu in 1984. The motor After the motor reaches opermade out of case hardened steel housing travels back up the guide ating speed. the chance of burning the The important thing in making Now. I've beWith the Elu variable come hooked on the slowline 3338 speed. This plunge feature is by the fingers of your left hand.000 motor housing to adjust the bit to USING THE ROUTER YOU can't to 20. new. Elu. Grasp the han. a Swiss manufacturer. cruise control on a car. aplungerouter do that a conThe biggest advantage to ventional router can't? Just I the slower speed though is _J what the name says -it althe bit doesn't heat up like lows you to plunge a bit into the contoured plate positioned right it would in a conventional router workpiece. and surface designs. fingers of your right hand and start" feature eliminates the However. Sound familiar? A I 1 e 10 ShopNotes No. Flip the "on" switch -it's a using. like the ings made of phosphor bronze (an router -you feel in control. and I've ex1980's that plunge routers perienced no compromise in became popular in the U. FEATURES. and the motor smoothly ac"sloppy" plunging action is a that's within easy reach of the celerates up to speed.the exact height you want. The guide rods are lease the lock lever. a plunge cut is for the bit to enter ward pressure. some One of the advantages that the One thing that's always bugged plunge routers have bushings Elu has over a standard router is me about routers is setting the only on one side.wood or the bit is reduced. That's the increased to maintain the RPM at The rods slide in 2"-long bush.S. built the first one in 3 setting (16..

It grips a full one inch of the shank of a bit.and you can return to any setting. variable speed motor. All of these depth setting features are fine in the freehand routing position. you can be sure that the bit will cut to that exact depth . all that withaseries of progressively finer adjustments.) you'll end up using a pair of pliers The list goes on. it's a $30 from the router bit. is it worth $3007 to worry about a slipping collet. you press a buttouto engage apin that locks the spindle shaft. but how do they work when the router is mounted upside down in a router table? the bit is tightened. Then the nut and the collet assembly are screwed to the end cept standard guide bushings of the spindle shaft. COLLET NUT. The collet snaps understand woodworking. the more you realize this also designed differently than tool was designed by people who other routers. The heart of the system consists of a depth stop bar and a turret. A No. in progressively deeper increments. (The three screws allow yon to preset three different depths. COLLET. except you only get a l/z" collet (for bits with %"-diameter shanks) when you COLLET SYSTEM buy the router. 1 ShopNotes 11 .ence. On the Elu. mounted knobs make a differThe only problem is. To add to the precision. (Other routers have collets that grip as little as 1/2" of the shank. if you for. you have to pay extra (about $20) to get this option. These slits loosening the nutpuiis the collet create "fingers" that exert uni. but the point to remove the bit and collet from ismade. and depth adjustments work great. if you admire a nearly A A three position turret and a One final thing I liked about perfect router. (The springs prevent the get to snap the collet all the way knobs from vibrating loose while into the nut before tightening it.) The turret feature is particularly useful when making a cut. the Elu G collet is l3/8" long. Makmg micro-adjustments on some table-mounted plunge routers can be a frustrating experience. you're always fighting with two wrenches. If you've ever had a bit slip out of the collet and ruin a project. The Elu collet system is about as good as you can get. form pressure around the shank CONCLUSIONS of the bit as the collet nut is The closer you look a t the Elu tightened. three in some collets). Even little things like springthe bit. So you only need one wrench to loosen or tighten the collet nut. With many routers.mechanism. Well. Elu has solved this problem by using an extension knob. see photo below. the Elu 3338 is as magnified hairline indicator allow the Elu's collet system-the way close as yon can get. The stop bar is adjusted by a rack and pinion gear.TOOL REVIEW I I I The Elu's depthsetting system elinunates . pieces together. Like the fact into a retaining ring in the collet that the base is designed to a o nut. you'll appreciate how the RETAINING Elu system works. If you want a 1/4" The Elu's plunge . there's a magn5ed scale with a hairline indicator. This stop bar determines the depth of cut when it contacts one of the three screws on the turret. The collet nut is 3338. It's almost impossible to get a good grip on the height adjustment nut. Unfortunately. But if you snap the two when they engineered this tool. collet. But it's the collet system that impresses me the most. First of all. Details count. exactly. you're routing. you won't have Bottom line. There are six slits that run almost the entire length of the collet (compared to two or A With the Nu collet system. like a dado. The point is when you set the depth stop bar and turret. The benefit from Black & Decker -and also of this comes when you remove from Porter Cable.They werereally thinking the shaft.) But there's more to the holding power of the Elu collet than just a long grip. As you loosen the nut the collet is pulled loose from the bit. a micro-adjuster on the end of the depth stop rod allows you to fine tune the depth of cut. And finally. forprecise depth settings.

1 . andbutt the ends together. crosscuts pieceofscrap. A more common problem is the swiveling head of the miter gauge isn't exactly 90" to the miter gauge slot . slide the square and rotate the blade backward until the marked tooth aligns with the square. use a try square and set the head 90" to the saw blade and tighten the knob. even this is not as reliable as you might think. 1. first loosen the locking knob. Set your miter gauge as close as you can to 90' with a try square. To get an accurate setting. loosen the locking knob and use a try square to set the miter gauge 90etothe saw blade. the miter gauge is not set a t 90". The only way to be sure that you're getting perfect crosscuts is to do a dynamic test. In other words. If there's a gap. the better). DYNAMIC TESTING. MITER GAUGE. An often overlooked problem is that your saw blade may not be parallel to the miter gauge slots. If it just touches. After making the cut. They're really only good for rough positioning. To check that your miter gauge is 90" to the blade. A Fig.) Normally all you need to do is loosen the bolts that hold the trunnion Safety~ote: Always unplug your table saw before making shouldbe easy tomake 90' cuts with a miter gauge . To get amore accurate setting. (The trunnion is the assembly that holds the saw arbor to the bottom of the table. After al1.but making perject crosscuts can be quite a challenge. Then. we haven't turned on the saw to make a cut. One method I use to make a dynamic test is shown in Fig.veryone takes crosscutting on the table saw for granted. 1. If there'sa gap the miter gauge needs to be adjusted. 12 ShopNotes No. However. and tap the trunnionin the direction needed. SAW BLADE. By using this method. Flip one piece overand butt the cutends together.usually because the graduations on most miter gauges aren't accurate. Then. Next. first mark a tooth. Everything we've done up to this point has been a static test or adjustment. To check your blade. the slot and blade are aligned. E ADJUSTMENTS The frustrating thing about making precise crosscuts is there isn't usually just one problem. A quick way to check this is touse a combination square and the procedure in the top two photos below. you can check the blade's alignment. place a square in the slot and adjust it so the end of the square touches the side of the marked tooth. To check your miter gauge. you should make a dynamic test. flip one section over. If the blade is not parallel to the miter slot. see bottom photo at left. Then make a crosscut on a piece of scrap (the wider. the table saw trunnion needs to be adjusted.

see Fig. (Most miter gauges have slots or predrilled holes for screwing on a fence. The way I prefer to prevent wander is to clamp tioned so the piece is cut slightly (about l/z") longer a stop block to the fence. I push the workpiece in the op. Instead of marking each piece with a pencil (and One common way to prevent wander is to glue a all the marks and cuts are accurate). or creep.) pieces to the same length. This is particularly helpful on long. SUPPORT. Then you can pull the miter gauge and workpiece back. To provide support along the length of a fence.dust the ance so the cut-off can't bind between the blade and A Fig. 3.) An auxiliary fence improves the quality of the crosscut in two ways.One otherbenefit of an auxiliary fence same set-up (and pushing against the stop block). REPETITIVE CUTS. wide pieces supports both the workpiece and the waste piece. I clamp a clearance blockto the the workpiece rip fence to use as a length gauge. accurate crosscuts. screw an auxiliary support the cut-off piece and pushes it all the way fence to your miter gauge. see Fig. 2.C a srop block ro tire ierice ro crosssclir prcces lo rtre same length. This way any tear-out will be on the side that won't be seen. see Fig. Just extend the fence so it's in the workpiece. Fig. (This makes sure pull of the blade. and the stop It's okay to use the rip fence along with the miter block. an auxiliary fence can prevent the tendency of a spinning saw ity of the cut. I use a strip of sandpaper to the face of the auxiliary fence. and cut it to fmal length. 2. there are two simple procedures to help ensure clean. The sandpaper provides extra "grip" and keeps the two-cut procedure with an auxiliary fence. To Cut short pieces. flip each piece posite direction . while end-for-end. always C ~ O S S C U ~ with the good side of the hoard face up.STANDARD PROCEDURES Once you're sure your table saw and miter gauge are set up accurately. long board when crosscutting.1 ShopNotes 13 . Besides improving the qualWANDER Even more important. slide the workpiece away from the blade after the cut. Be sure to cut a sawdust relief on the bottom corner of the To prevent sawstop block to prevent any sawdust from building up dust from buildbetween the stop block and the workpiece. 4. Instead. 4. clamp a clearance block to AUXILIARY FENCE AND STOP BLOCK One of the most important things you can do to make better crosscuts is to use an auxiliary fence. using an auxiliary fence with a stop blade to pull the workpiece into the hlade causing a block can also make quick work of cutting several had cut. I t provides extra support for the of the workniece. This is nothing more than an extension fence (I use a strip of 3/q"hardwood) attached to the face of the with an auxilimiter gauge. When I need several short nieces ing u p between all the same length. see Fig. It also helps if the auxiliary fence extends to bottom corner. To counter the than the finished length you want. Second. 2.that this end of each piece is perfectly square. 3 . MAKING A CLEAN CUT. preventing it from pivoting during the path of the blade. gauge as long as the block provides enough clear. SHORTPIECES. This way the fence cut.tight against the block. This prevents the board through and beyond the saw hlade (so the cut-offs don't stop right next to the saw blade). (This is sometimes called wander. By using the making the cut. cut a saw. First. hoping . The first cut is made with the stop block posiworkpiece from slipping.) Then. CLAMPCLEARANCE ELOCK TO RIP FENCE 4 Fig. you can ruin aperfect crosscut by pulling the board back along the side of the saw teeth after making a cut. is that it can help reduce tear-out on the back edge you ensure they're all exactly the same length. from dragging or swiveiling during the cut. Note: One minor problem can foul this up. reducing the chance of the grain tearing out. TEAR-OUT. just reset the stop block. that tend to drag on the table surface. No.

1. the rip fence is in the way. TOP/BOTTOM. And there's a channel on top of the cabinet for the rip fence. see Fig. To provide more holding power for the hinge screws.Saw Cabinet This space-saving cabinet gives You a wag to store Your table Saw accessories so they're ~ g hat t yourfinger tips. . saw blades side-by-side). 1. saw blades. D). To store the miter gauge and rip fence close at hand. The miter gauge hangs in a quick-access holder on the door. screw them to the back piece (A). Cut both of these pieces to the same length as the back and 41%" wide. 1. The door and the back are joined together with the top and bottom (C. I started by cutting the back (A) and the door blank (B) from %'-thick plywood. see Fig. see Fig. oes this sound familiar? You're just getting ready to rip a board there. END PIECE. and other accessories inside.allowing you to store the arbor wrench. The cabinet has a door which effectively doubles the storage space .but you can change the width to fit your fence. see Fig.I cut both pieces 151h" wide by 23" long (large enough to store 10"-dia. So measure the width of the bottom (41/2") 14 C EXPLODED VIEW ShopNotes No. FEATURES. I cut this piece from 3/4"thick hardwood (not plywood). Afterthe top and bottom are cut to size. And when you're trying to crosscut. D CONSTRUCTION To build the cabinet. TOmount the door. taking advantage of the unused space below the table extension. 2. The width of this piece has to allow for the hinge. I built a cabinet that hangs on the side of my table saw. Note: The 41h" width will accommodate most saw fences . an end (E) is cut to fit between the top and bottom pieces.S no convenient place to store the miter gauge.

One piece becomes the door. t and subtract the thickness of the 1 DOOR B Before the door can be mounted. If the angle of the legs on your table saw interferes with mounting the cabinet. I laid out and drilled holes for angled dowelaat hold the blades inside the cabinet. see Fig. the door blank (B) is ripped into two pieces. The holder is just a bracket with a tapered notch. tilt it at aslight angle to keep the mitergauge from8liding off the front (open) end. screw the other flap of the hinge to the end (E).espe" - c i d y when it has an auxiliary fence attached to it. see Fig. lay out the taperednotch and cut it out with a sabre saw or on a band saw. Counterbore holes in the blocks.see dram'ng below. 1. Our solution is this simple quick-access holder that mounts to the front of the cabitnet door. d r i l l two countersunk shank holes. see Fig. MOUNT DOOR. Storing it becomes even more of a problemif you want easy and quick access when you need it. i l HOLDER. add a couple of spacer blocks. M o m THE CABINET. 1. see Cross Section in Fig. add a magnetic catch. and bolt them to the side of the saw. see Fig. rip it to a width of 2". Now all thaes left is to screw the cabinet to the blocks. When mounting the holder to the door. cut a piano hinge the same length as the door. Then. Next. To make it. BLADE HOLDERS. 3. The other piece is screwed to the top (C) to complete the channel for the rip fence. I ShopNotes . 1. 2. Next. Then screw the hinge to the door. Also. @ ~ mounted to the cabinef for your rn~tergauge/tallowsyou to slide the mter gauge ~nplace -even with an aux111ary fence a$taaci. Before installing the door.( I tween hinge. C R 0 5 4 SECTION P C4%"--1 'IECE \ 5AW KERF I tsr Gauge Holder One of the most awkward things I IE to storeis a miter gauge. When you're ready to mount the door to the cahmet.Finally. Then screw the end b e the top (G)and bottom (D).ed a 1 '-k - No. cut a scrap piece of 2x4 8"-long.

bit storage on FENCE. 1 . orremoved completely or the fence with a T-slot for accessories. I t has a storage area. base cabinet that has everything. st ofall the section included with this issue. and sliding faces allow for different sized router bits. And the The plans for this cabinet are in the special pull-out clamping system is designed to attach to any table. First. 16 ShopNotes No. but also with flexibility so you canuse were essential. the easy-to-build open frame (plans on next page). As for the top. you can opt for features I wanted on a router table. out of the top to change bits. an accessory router table.Rauter Table Build the cabinet (above) or the open frame (left). consider building the fence. I thought three features tures. r n criarsie. We started out building an enclosed dampen vibration). .) of accessories (refer to pages 26 and 27). . car! ue ruu~eu iv a t i ~ e p t your miter gauge.the new open hold the router. A The router is mounted to a removable insert plate so it can be lifted out for changing bits or free-hand routing. Or build the adjustable fence to fit your o w n router table. and the best feature. I also wanted a heavy top (to THE BASE. This way the router can be lifted base orthe cabinet. A The fence has a T-slot f i r attaching various accessories. then add the top and fence. This is particularly handy for routing the ends of boards. a removable sawdust bin. If you don't build any other part of this the doors. the newtop withaninsert plate. Or. for free-hand routing. and a miter slot. I wanted an insert plate to only the parts you want . This new table is designed with those feaTHE TOP. it's quiet (the T-slot on the face that's designed to accept a variety enclosed cabinet dampens most of the router noise.

x 3v+. I pre-cut wide dadoes in each leg piece before gluing them together. To provide mortises for the rails. there isn't a top stretcher between the front legs.Open--me Base 3/4'' HARDWOOD FRONT VIEW STRETCHERS I CUTTING DETAIL OPEN-FRAME BASE This open-frame base is sturdy and easy to build. glue the legs and rails together to complete the end frames. see Cutting Detail above.) The stretchers are fastened to the frames with lag bolts. see Exploded View. END FRAMES. THE LEGS. But before I started. Theentire base is built out of 2x4's.111 three stretchers (Note: To provide access to the router. reducing the width to 3". I drilled a hole near the end of the stretcher and glued in dowels before screwing in the lag bolts. After the dadoes are cut in the leg pieces. (This simplified the joinery. see Fig. The base has two end frames that consist of two legs and two rails. I cleaned themup alittle by ripping 1/4" off both edges. Next. 1. The dowel provides cross-grain strength. But since the bolts are threaded into end grain. the end frames are joined together with . STRETCHERS. 2..) ASSEMBLY. there's a trick to strengthening this joint. .* Kc LAG 11 You can provide extra holding power when screwing into end grain by inserting a dowel. HARDWOOD THROUGH DOWEL I SHANK HOLE . see Fig. ShopNotes . Each leg is made from two 2x4's cut to length and then sandwiched together.

The core of the router table top is a sandwich of two layers of Masonite glued on top of a 3/4" plywood base. edged with hardwood. The only tricky part to adding an insert plate to the top is routing out the recess. The insert plate is a piece of V4"-thick phenolic plastic (you could also use Masonite) that fits in a recessed opening in the table.Router Table Top e he heart of this router table is the top. refer to nages 20 and 21. and covered with Formica on both sides. 1 18 ShopNotes No. TECHNIQUE. when the recess (for the insert plate) and the miter gauge slot are routed in the surface of the top. the two layers of Masonite smooth. Also.) - . It has three important features: the removable insert plate. THE CORE. and its weight.- TOP CONSTRUCTION The top consists of a core of plywood and Masonite. (The technique we used is to rout the recess with a pattern bit in a router. REMOVABLE INSERT. the miter gauge slot. Then you can simply lift the router out T of the table to c h a n -~ e bits. The idea here is to make a heavy top (to dampen vibration). I t has to fit exactly. The idea is to screw the router to the bottom of the plate. hard edges. I . or to do freehand routing.

EDGING. refer to Fig. After routing the edges of the Masonite. sand or file a radius on each corner. see Fig. MASONITE PLECES. see Fig. It's also the bit I used to rout the recess for the insert plate and the miter gauge slot. 2. 2a. but this time with a chamfer bit to chamfer the edge of the top at the same time. Then I routed the edges of the Masonite flush with the edges of the plywood by using a flush trim bit. see Fig. Here again. la Shop Note: I used a flush trim bit with a bearing on the top. see Fig. WMINATE. this whole core section is then edged with hardwood.. the next step is to cut two pieces of %"thick Masonzte (B) and glue them on top of the plywood base with contact cement. see Fig. Then cut it to length. I used R"-thick maple FIRST: e@zw(C. D). 1. see Fig. 3. Design Note: After the edging is installed. Design Note: To prevent one side of the top from expanding and contracting differently than the other. see Fig. TO solve this problem. 3a. la. TRIM FLUSH. it's important to glue laminate to both sides. The trick here is getting the edges of the Masonite to align with the plywood. First.I began making the core section by cutting a base (& to size from 3/4" plywood. glue and clamp the edging pieces flush with the edges of the top. Now. refer to pages 20 and 21. \-HARDWOOD EDGING . When the glue is dry. . s o m CORNERS. I cut the Masonite pieces slightly larger than the plywood. rip the edging to match the thickness of the top. The last step is to glue Formica laminate (El to both sides of the core. After the plywood is cut to size. I cut the laminate oversize. then trimmed i t . 2b. the fmished dimensions of the top will be 23" x 30".

drill a hole in each corner of GUIDE STRIPS. draw cut lines for the lip itself as a set-up guide for posiThe pattern bit I used has cut:%x" in from the outline. make the plate about 1"wider than the handles on the router. To do this. surface for the bearing to ride Guide strfps are used to rout a recess in the top thatk exactly the size of the insert plate. I used a piece of V4"-thick phenolic plastic. So.) Finally. W O U T OPENING. 1 . match the plate is to use the plate rout Lhe lipped recess. to provide a Now. (If you plan to use a large router. rout the lip for the insert plate to Now the problem is to rout a sit on. 4a.So. 4. These recess that has a lip around it to outline of the lip to perfectly strips will guide a pattern bit to hold up the plate. sand or file a l/4" radius on the corners of the insert. Also drill two fingerholes in the plate. THE INSERT PLATE. see Fig. Next. The secret to getting the the insert plate.) After cutting the plate to size. 7. position the the cut lines. see Fig. 4.- FEATURE PROJECT lnsert Plate After completing the top. Then use a sabre place the plate over the opening so it aligns with the outline preplate 6" from the front edge of the saw to cut out the opening. use the base from your router as a template to locate and drill mounting holes and the center hole in the insert. 6. GLUE V 4 ' 'PLYWOOD AND h' MASONITE TOGETHERTO MAKE GUIDE STRIPS PATTERN 20 ShopNotes No. The next step is to viously drawn on the top. After the insert plate is complete. see Fig. see Fig. see Fig. top so it's centered side-to-side. THE LIP. chamfer all the edges. tioning the guide strips. 5. later. the 4 1 4 2" INSERTPLATE next step is to make the removable insert plate. see Fig. Now place guide strips around and trace around it. (This equals the radius of the pattern bit used to rout the recess. Cut I DRILL AND the insert plate (F) to its finished size. ter length of 1". but 14' Masonite will also work. I used it as a template for laying out the opening in the top. First. see page 31.

Set the muter on top of the insert plate and lower the bit until it barely touches the top. To set the depth of the pattern bit to rout the slot.'TO SET DEPTH OF CUT DEPTH OF -- TO THICKNESS OF INSERT SHOULD JUST TOUCH THE TABLE Miter Gauge 51ot After completing the recess lip for the insert plate. The bearing on the pattern bit ndes against guide strips and cuts a recess exactly the same size as the insert plate. Then lower the bit to barely touch the table top. lift the insert plate out. Then place the insert plate on top of a guide strip. 8. see Fig. 11. Place the miter gauge bar on top of the guide strip. see Fig. 10a. see Fig. Now to position the other guide strip. (They're used later for routing the miter slot. there's only one thing left to do on the top rout the miter gauge slot. rout a chamfer on the bottom of the opening. 8 and 9. To improve the air flow to the router. ROUT THE SLOT. see Fig. position one of the guide strips 4" from the front edge of the top. Before routing the lip you need to set the bit A Using a pattern bit in a router is a quick way to rout the recessed lip in the top. see Fig. This will form the - inside edge of the miter gauge slot. see Fig. a -USE INSERT PLATE *. mount the pattern bit in the router. And two of the strips should long enough to match the width of the top. Using doublesided carpet tape. To do this. GUIDE STRIPS.) After sticking the guide strips down with double-sided carpet tape. 9a. refer to Fig. Remove the insert plate and rout out the recess lip. see Fig. 10. 7. hold the miter gauge snugly between the two strips. DEPTH OF CUT.I FEATURE PROJECT depth to match the exact thickness of the insert plate. the guide strips need to be 1"thick. Now remove the miter gauge and rout the slot. 9. GAUGE TO I . The strips should be 3"wide to support the router. 10. and the router on top of the bar. a against. use a procedure similar to that shown in Figs.

The T-slot is designed the front of the fence slide open table) can easily be adapted to fit almost any table top. 1.-If to fit around the router bit.Router Table Fence hether you build to accept so you can adjust the opening to other part of this router T-sha~ed nuts fit the router bit vou're usinc. Spacing the dadoes equally from the ends. 1 No. This allows 3"on each end for the clamp heads. 1. and the clamp heads. W BUILDING THE FENCE The fence is made up of four sections. and a top piece with four d d o e s cut in it. refer to the Exploded View. It has threeunique featuresvariety of accessories. refer to Exploded View.) The built-in clamp heads on each ing system. SLIDING FACES. (Knobs pass through the slots to hold the sliding faces in place. a bottom piece. cut dadoes (slots) in the top piece. see page 26. The base is eventually cut in . 1 . But it starts out as a long strip that consists of two pieces.. the sliding faces. The split base (A) serves as a platform for adding the top bar (with the T-slot). After the two base pieces are cut to length. table. measure the length of the router table top (30") and add 6". sliding faces. and a special clamp. (For table (even one youalready own).more on this.) To determine the length of these base pieces. the fen& is worth looking that slide in and l e t you add a CLAMPING SYSTEM. a pair of guard. including a is also designed to adapt to any a T-slot for accessories. The idea is to sandwich these two pieces together to form a base with four slots. The faces on end (that secure the fence to the T-SLOT. and a featherboard.The gnce at. see Fig. see Fig.

the base will be cut into each piece. see Fig.chamfer alongthe bottom edge of ing for the router bit). The problem is making sure less than the height of the base. Finally. First. you can drill holes for the threaded inserts. and screw the pieces back together. see box below. This Lreates clearance the threaded inserts align with so the sliding faces won't bind the slots in the base. This chamfer serves now leave it as one piece and add as arelief for sawdust. Then use an awl to scribe the position of the slots on the back of the faces. The screws will automatically realign the pieces and keep them from sliding as the clamps are tightened. Be careful not to drill too deep. Now remove the clamps. With the slots located. position and flush to the bottom To allow the sliding faces (B) to ASSEMBLY.And the width (height) of each face is 1/16" threaded inserts. and tilfhten thc nuts e n s t O k insert. get as close as possible to the router bit. m u n l the bolt in the chuck. Center the holes between the scribed lines and near the end of each slot closest to the bevel. 1. see Fig. 3. Then screw the pieces together with a couple of wood screws. threaded inserts is %"deep. ing faces are almost complete Each slidingface is one half the all that's left is to install the length of the base (18"). 4. see Fig. I used a simple technique to keep them aligned. align the edges of both pieces and dry-clamp them together. see Fig. pwss the insert down intc . Now glue the two SLIDING FACES * of the base. I - serts. 4a. The slidthe sliding faces (B). Note: The hole needed for most 5/16" I. apply glue. I beveled one end of Later. Since glued surfaces tend to slide as they're clamped together.()base pieces together. Then thread two nuts and thr insert on the end of this bolt. I also routed a small two sections (to create an open. install the threadedinserts in the faces. see Fig. But for both faces. THREADED INSERTS. anti usins the control arm. To do this. stmi* aml qwa-e inta the~vorkpirsce Start by sawing off the head of 0 b l t tha Ets the im&. hold theslidingfacesin the closed against the top bar. 2. 2.D. see Fig. Now.

see Fig. 7a. Once again. the next step is to cut an opening for the router bit.Top Bar The base of the fence is just a platform for adding the top bar (and the clamps). and centered on the length of the fence. clamp them together (no glue yet) on a flat surface (I used my saw table).And the width of each piece (21/2") equals the width of the base. see Fig. The top bar (C) has a T-slot which is actually a system for addingall the accessories shown on pages 26 and 27. To help align the pieces. this time screwing from the bottom of the base into the top bar. see Fig. MAKE THE BAR. 6a. 5. refer to Fig. GLUE-UP. The length of each piece is the same length as the base (A) (36"). 7. NOWthat the base is attached to the top bar. see Step 2 in Fig. The opening is 4" wide. see-Fig. see Fig. the next step is to make the T-slot. temporarily attach the sliding face pieces (B) to the base (A) with knobs (or bolts). The first step is to cut two pieces to size to make the bar. to make sure that the top bar and the base are flush and square. 6a. B OF TOP BAR TURN PIECE Here again I used the screw and glue technique (mentioned on the previous page) to glue these pieces together. After cutting the pieces to size. plus the sliding face (B) pieces. GLUE TOP BAR TO BASE. see Fig. To keep the heads of the screws from showing. screw them in &om the bottom face of the top bar. 6. 5. Then turn each piece on edge and trim 1 4 " off the end of the "tongue" formed by the groove. Cutting the T-slot is a two-step operation. aT-slot is formed in the top bar. remove the screws and the sliding face pieces you temporarily attached to the base. I cut the opening on the table saw by setting a dado blade slightly less than the height ofthe base. 24 p~ ShopNotes No. Then I made repeated passes to waste out the stock for the bit opening. 1 . BIT OPENING. 5 . Start by cutting a 3/8" by V8" groove in the face of each piece. After the glue has dried. 6a. CUT THE SLOT. see Step 1in Fig. By gluing these two pieces together. Then. use the screw and glue technique. The next step is to glue the top bar (C) to the base (A).

The next step space so the arm can pinch against 4 " Masonite is to cut kerfs for the 1 the table top. To cut these kerfs safely. (Later. the clamp head pinches against the bottom of the table top. FINISH.>. drill as far as you can. The only requirement is to cut matching kerfs in the spacer and the fence. And finally. determine the overhang on each side (3") and thickness of the spacers (E) by subtract l/s"for clearance (27/8"). use the rip spacers.these dimensions.~ ~. 8. and drill through both pieces. 8a. : . Then.Clamp Sy5tem The fence is almost complete. The clamp heads are "hinged" to the fence with Masonite splines. CAaRIAGE BOLTS. Now. remove the clamp heads and complete the hole. . I applied two coats of tung oil finish to keep the wood parts from getting soiled. 8a.) To determine the length of the splines. (Tniscreates a to the arm blank (D). subtract 1/8". By tightening a knob (or wing nut) on the bolt. What makes this clamp system work is a carriage bolt that passes through the clammp head and up through the fence. Then measure the amount of SPACERS. holding the fence in place. see Fig.before cutting the blank in half. without changing the set-up. fence base (A) (l3/4").. 9. see Fig. and glue them ance. cut kerfs in the spacers. measuring the thickness of your Now cut two spacers (E) to router table top.&e?+&F. CLAMP SYSTEM. 9. . 10a. Before assembling the fence. see Fig. cut Masonite splines l/s" wider than the combined depth of the kerfs (7/8"). 9. ShopTip: If your drill bit isn't long enough. To align the pieces. for clear.) ARM BLANK TOmake the a m blank (D). THE CLAMP HEAD.. i - .a spacer that's slightly thinner than the top. No.see Fig. Each clamp head consists of two pieces . 9.. see Fig. 9. see Fig. . I cut the arm blank in half to make two clamp heads.see Fig. all that's left is the clamp system. see Fig. . 1 . i-. The easiest way to get the holes to align in these two pieces is to fasten the clamp heads to the fence with carpet tape. 10. center the fence from fence on the table saw to position SPACER GLUE BPACEKS kerfs in the bottom of the fence. and an arm that extends under the table top. Next. I cut bevels on the ends (for appearance). SPLINE HINGES. I glued the spacers to a long arm blank fist. . see Fig. see Fig. These clamp heads are attached to the 1%" fence with carriage bolts.. and then. cut an8"-longblank to 9 TOP L E ~ S l/a" a/a" the same width as the router side-to-side on the table top. ~.

see Fig. see Fig. Tomake theguard. To stabilize the guard. . To install the guard. . 2. And two 45' notches are cut in the sides. turn the fence over and pinch the sliding faces against the guard.~ ~ ShopNotes " * ' . /t23h"* 1 1 WITH WASHER / INTO 1 NOTCH FOR %@'* SLIDING FACES OF ROUTERTABLE FENCE 26 -. Thii one is made from a single piece of 1h"-thickPlexiglas. . you should include a bit guard on the muter table. . This one is designed to attach to the fence with T-nuts and threaded knobs.FEAtURE PROJECT Router Bit Guard I F o r safety. and cut two slots for adjusting the height. simply open the faces and pull it out.first cutthe bock to size. 1. SLIDE FACE5 I St "7% FOX. you need a guard that extends out from the fence. . and a Plexiglas shield. This whole assembly is simply attached to the fence with threaded knobs. two sets of notches are a t . see Fig. 1.&&&& . W h e n you want to do freehand routing. No. To remove the guard. 2. <-aac -&$. The shield is cut from 14"-thick Plexiglas. Two straight notches axe cut on the back edge. 1 . and screwed to the back. .-. see Fig. The guard is made of two pieces: a 1/2"-thick hardwood back piece. Then install the screws. L i ~ .

cut a workpiece from lh"-thick stock with both ends cut at 30" see Fig. 2.Here's an easy-to-build dust collection system that screws to the back of the fence (over the router bit opening) and connects No. make 17 equally spaced cuts. cut out the slots with asabre saw or hand saw. see Fig. PROBLEM. 1. drill 8/8" holes. After they're started. featherboard is helpful for keeping boards tight against the table for a consistent cut. see Fig. 1 ShopNotes 27 . To make this one. make a face plate from 14" Magonite. Once the blade height is set. see Fig. To make the slots. Vacuum Attachment to your shop-vac. the bottom of the vacuum attachment is forced down and tends to lift the fence. 2. put pennies under the side pieces before starting the screws. see Fig. THE FINGERS. cut two triangular-shaped szrkpteees from &"-thick stock.FEATURE PROJECT A . see photo. (This leaves 18 fingers. . Now. It's 5" wide and beveled on the top and bottom edges to match the side pieces. 2. TO cut the fin- gers. see Fig. tilt the table saw blade to 30"and raise it to make a 11# high cut. 3. The last step is to make two slots for attaching the featherboard to the fence. Next. Now drill a hole in the face plate so your vacuum hose will fit snug. TOP PLATE. Glue the pieces together and then screw the attachment to the back of the fence. To get around this. attach a tall auxiliary fence t o your miter gauge. see Fig. 2a. As you're driving in the screws. 23/4" up from the bottom edge of the featherboard. remove the pennies and finish tightening the screws. 1.) HOLE SIZE. To build the attachment. (This allows the attachment to fit tight against the fence and the table.) CUT THE SLOTS. Then.

cut a2x4 blank the same width as the belt (3")and 834'' long. a . Dowels are glued into the heel to hold the springs in place. see photo. pull up the grain between the 28 ShopNotes No. refer to Fig. It's screw can raise the wood fibers between two pieces... To use the block. Then. cut offthe heel and glue the dowels into it. 2. 1. ~ . SIZED FOR 3 " x 2P BELT different twist. . . I rounded over the edges of the heel and beveled the other end. 1. 1 and 2. you canavoid this by clamping the pieces together. see Fig. but it can be modified to fit any beIt. When you need a fresh surface. . Typically. Then compress the springs and slip on a sanding belt. Note: The only drawback to countersinkingthe pilot hole is it reduces the holding surfacefor the screw threads. a sanding belt can be slipped over the block.7 . causing a gap. (It's easiest to drill these holes before cutting off the heel.) To help tension the belt. 2. . d r i l lthe holes for the dowels. 1 . a body and a heel with springs in between. slide springs on the dowels and insert the dowels into the body. see Fig.) The sanding block is actually When screwing b m Sometimes the threads of a "pocket" for the raised fibers. (I made mine to fit a 3"x 21"belt.Shop Solutions Sanding Block two pieces. .< sand in^ block that uses a ~ ~ . ~ belt from a be% sander. squeeze the block together and rotate the belt. . Finally. The springs push the pieees apart to tension the belt.But what if you can't clamp them? One solution is to create a easy to do this by countersinking the inside face of either the shank hole or the pilot'hole see Figs. . see photo at left. When the heel and body are squeezed together. To make a sanding block for a 3" x 21"belt.

Des Maines. Ave. . or chuck key.Drill h 5 5 Magnet .. Fjnding solutions to $rdblems is a part of woo&working. The tool bar holds itself to the metal head of the drill press.. And keepsmy drillbits and accessories handy. Attn: Shop Solutions 2 3 0 Grand .upo*publication up to. see photo. We'll pay..When using the drill press it seems that I'm always lookingfor a misplaced bit.. faced. ^$200 dkpending oil the published length. .an explanation slnn'r with I nhntnnr ~katrrh . .IA to problems yodve.Please 'send . But a trip to the local hardware store solved all that.Ifyou'd l i b to share. countersink. send them to: Shop~otes. ShopNotes . I purchased a 12"-long magnetic tool bar (it's just a long bar magnet).

just came across my desk. SIlgP UYWl and sharpening areas. I was curious to get a close-up view of all the professional and home workshops that Landis visited while working on his book. own shop. The only problem is it may be Kentucky. imagine anyone (Photos reprinted from The having to worry about Workshop Book by Scott Landis. andstill has adequate storage space for all his tools and iies. tools. But this is an "idea" book.sly limited in the number of power tools he can have. he manages with just a fold-out benchtop. a band saw with infeedloutfeed supports. not a "how-to" With a l l of manual. that have been shoehorned into closets. If you're looking for a tour that space.difficult to build some of the shop claimed 3200 square projects since they're not shown feet from an old auto i n a step-by-step fashion. His bench doubles as an Used with permission. and then filled in the open space with walls. Some of the ideas can be lifted right out of the book. Watson set up his these that make a shop work. It's shop in a laundry room. a woodworker from Wisconsin. 1 . windows. to a shop-built system costing $260.also the kind of attention to detail vio. The Workshop ook by Scott Landis. AN IDEABOOK. He has re. attics. andi is" -de. The Workshop Book is crammed with hundreds of practical and creative ideas for toil and lumber storage. we can learn some. Others can be adapted to fit your situation. Along with large colorphotographs o f unique working shops shops and space-saving solutions. Landis describes dust collection sysfrom a Sears shop vacuum. One story I found particularly interesting was about Mark Duginske. and layout. Naturally. The important thing The Works@ Book. shop location. at Kelly Mehler's shop in Berea. no matter what size. Maybe what makes Landis' book so appealing is there are usable ideas for a whole range of woodworkers. shopmade tools. and a roof. jigs and safety accessories.throughout the book that show thing from the more fortunate enough detail so you can model woodworkers who do. of great shops.) ShopNotes tern that compresses sawdust into brickets that are burned to heat the shop. and lots of ideas. A RANGE OF IDEAS. space and tools may seem like a youmight get afewpointersfrom minor detail. shop layout.A Detailedplans liketheseareusedthroughoutthe scribes lots of book. rolled one half to a concrete ad. that Landis shows throughout and pantries. storage. For example. You'll also While most of us don't have lots find large. to a very elaborate sys- A . full color photographs of shop space. a ' No. DETAILS. And the table of his overarm router also adjusts to the same height if he needs more support. But it's details like Aldren Watson. CluStWhg work SUrIf lack of space is a problem (are faces to get the maximum use of there any shops where it isn't?). Everything is labeled: the location of machinery. Duginske found a creative solution to the space limitations of a single car garage shop. is these space-saving shops offer inLandis has included over a formation that you can use in your dozen color floor plans of shops. Take alook your own ideas after them. does. He sliced the garage in half. But Mehler 01991 by The Taunton Press. Ob. outfeed table for the table book. it's hard to The Workshop Book will fit the bill.

.......95 FEATHERBOARD.. We%e also guard made from '4"-thick optic offering an oversized phenolic blank orange Plexiglas.95 FORMICA.....$99. MounEing HighlandHardware Williams Tool 800-788-0007 Brackefs. available. I No...D... $26. and two 1"finger holes... Inse7t Material.... includes (2) T-slot nuts.. The Work800-888-8286 800-225-1153 The WorkshopBook The Workshop Book *hop Book woadsmith store Sbo~Notes Supplies Moulzt<mgBmekets MAIL ORDER SOURCES Trend. Threaded Inserts *(4) 546"x 214'' Star Knobs (2) 5/1.95 BIT GUARD.... Two sheets of white ForKIl r i m to mica.) Blank . Bit Guard requires Attachment Kit 4502-245 11"x 15" Phenolic 6801-250. However.. and (2) threaded knobs and washers. 6801-300 Complete Kit ..... see Accessories heading...... use the form enclosed with a current issue. This insert is 734" wide (deep) and ll3/4" long and will fit The Accessories shown on pages 26 most routers... and Cabinet (laminate not included)........ IA 50304 Note: Prices subject to change after April I .. The 14"-thick phenolic in(2) Magnetic Catches sert for the Router Table l b p comes (4) Mounting Brackets pre-drilled with a 13/d opening for (4) 3/8" x 11# Lag Screws the bit..... ~ ~ :2 " .. $15...... for the top....$15.$13.....95 inet shown in the special plans inThe metal mounting brackets used to serted in this issue...95 DUST HOOD.. or routed......... The Wwkshop Book by Scott Landis is also availablethrough ShopNotes Project Supplies... don't order Fence Kit 6801-200.. Store 800367-9999 612428-2199 Hh-$warn...7%T.$9... Slots are cut and for use with larger routers.... This guard is made from optic orange Plexiglas with flame ~olished edees. $14. Constantine's 800-223-8087 The Woodworkers' ...95 FREEHAND GUARD. Please call each company for a catalog orfor ordering inforination. 2004-155 Workshop Book..$. Hardware Kit .. and 27 are also available as manufac4602-229 Phenolic Insert for tured versions. 1 ShopNotes . The kit includes: 6801-110Mounting Bracket *(2) 11/2"x 32" Piano Hinges with screws ... Also includes the four accessories.... $15.. Hardware Inset Malaterial Woodw01'ker'SSupply Taunton Press Woodcrafk 800445-9292 Harduw. $34. Elu 3888. Before calling.. (2) D-handle Pulls INSERT. a hardware kit is attach the top to the base......O..00 E Um r m The model #3338 router can be found a t Elu dealers and from some of the mail order sources listed below.... Guard .) 4502-525 Featherboard .. oversized to t fmal size (24"x 32"). 6801-220 Freehd. 1992... We've also put together a list of other mail order sources that cany the same or similaritems..... (4)needed..95 ctlmwE M B L E m A kit is available that includes a l l of the hardware needed to build the Top... Fence... OVERSIZED BLANK. have your VISA......$14.......tines I ORDER INFORMATION BY MAIL To order by mail.. The 6801-150 Cabinet Kit .... Mastercard..Sources the router table fence.. Send your mail order to: I BY PHONE For fastest service use our Toll Free order line.35ea.. (Note: If you don't the hardware (but not the wood) for order Fence Kit 6801-200.... BOX 842 Des Moines... or Discover Card ready. This is a one-piece Router Table ... the You must cut it to shape... Ifyou want to build the enclosed cab3018-105 Formica . m e Wor!&q 800-2414748 The Workshop Book... and sales tax..... (Note: If you This blank is not drilled. Note: it'sbent to aright angle. The dust collection hood is made from hlaek ABS plastic and fits a 214' shop-vac hose.. Mounting screws are included. the ShopNotes Project Supplies is offering a variety of hardware kits and manufactured items for the Router Table. Open Monday through Friday. featherboard requires Attachment Kit 6801-250.95 - - cmm m Special kit for attaching Guard and Featherboard. W a i l R s W O B B(MK This book is available through Taunton Press and several of the mail order catalogs listed below...95 rn Similar hardware and supplies may be found in the following catalogs.$12. 6801-230 Dust Hood . no wood is included.. Phenolic P ! & k h b s . We're offering a ROUTERfABLEFENCE featherboard made from 3/s"-thick A kit is available that contains all of polycarbonate....95 corners are rounded and the edges AWSSOWES chamfered...... 6801-250 Attachment Kit .0 9 6 Elu 8338 515-255-8979 Elu 8388 800444-7527 The Workshop Book ShopNotes Project Supplies P... $18.....95 4502-206 Bit Guard .j" x 1"Star Knobs ROUTER TABLE MIP (6) %6" Washem The following items are available (2) 5/16" T-slot Nuts from ShopNotes Project Supplies 6801-200 Router Table Fence for the Router Table Top... The kit includes the following hardware: (2) 3/8" x 6"Carriage Bolts (2) 3/sb'Star Knobs (2j 3 2 Washers *(4) 5/16" I... 8:00 AMto 5:00 PM Centralnme... The order form includes information on handling and shipping charges.

and perhaps.s yo76 ear~. or stacked 0 7 . a sizelj: Looki~lg throlyh s t ~ c h a eollectio?.sigizt into the craftsmanu~ho works them. A ? L can eve??~e-eoeal a bit o f t h e shop:$ history .p~zd roz ir~teresti~lg colleetio?~ of tools a d sz~ppliestucked ucuay i?i a COI-xer. some l?i. can weate 2qmn ~ closer inspection i t i~rzages of past projects.( .Scenes From the Shop In most s1~op. t - .

see Sources on page 31 of issue No. we cut vents in the side and the back. ShopNotes Project Supplies has a complete hardware kit for this cabinet... but my favorite feature of this cabinet is something you won't see until you open the doors.. SUPPLIES. . As we were working on the new Router ..: i . Enclosing a router base to reduce noise and sawdust is great. . I used one sheet of maple plywood for the case (you could also use birch).outer tables are one of the most valuable tools in the I I workshop but they have two drawbacks. and they create alot of sawdust. you substantially reduce the dust and chip mess. *. To allow for cool air flow through the cabinet. . They're noisy. The only problem with enclosing a router in a cabinet is heat. and maple for the trim. : how much an enclosed base quiets down a router. 1. Screwed to the insides of the doors a r e a set of unique router hit holders that won't fill with dust and chips. And by adding a removable dust box inside. The noise reduction makes it a lot more comfortable to work around. BIT HOLDERS.


) a. 1. YII hrmCplr4& & (1 ttsU&d t & e b w ) 3%. v e hinstdl ~ d &. . 1.~ .& and at the'eorners.~hinep.see F @ . page 18.(&. Afta .. -.a ~ t t ~ n n f ~ & n e t : d & e II and elarnp .If that made levelers h i t h e W pd I -w=& tu -. a you're using. 6 e m t o m 4 1 .. 3 . a shelf. aee Figs. . glue and scm ..giaed on easelwith hardwood trim mmd Then. still m phi. . Thba. 1. Exoloded Sam f for .. tojointhe shelf md bottommto cover the pljw~od edge: '. ' ~ -View on . l a and 18.-' . .mo&h length. . : to the aides. eu&ng atrip fE/ e m be. ~~ .seeF3g. a stsedffC). drill shank hdes and m e w m&tBeendstofitawuridtkt .f. 1.. (The to^ is s h o w in' CB).The shelE(C) L cut I&' c u t mthe vents. net.B kg m w . cut a notch at top-ofegch Ix&and sboktom. bott~mfma~nftkk-rree~is.%ii& m d k.riWpilot h@a finfin&( &Before'I& the base counterbored holes.enffo6&Iaddedfanr&& 1 W-dh counw: & i d & o f four pims-tI. and cut a slot in the & The next step is added later.just the ley* '.hieImewof the ply.3 .~. cut W-deep dad& v~~WILATIOM. ' P h e l e . . With the .' mw~). The'route~ cabinet is a plywood 'from W plywood. - .S.&ply lag &WE tbat fit iit Tken I d. -. '- ..c -m ~ -.(B).-~ &~II&-*~.see Fig.'Ge Fin. W'DW. ~ ~ serewed a [GI ? a . . and a bottom (Dj. 'ere b e d . ' ' .Mipisn rwin m d e uIISam& aPQmd the * I * &eP the hebiiet d Q m :: tke I - s I mt a M"mUnd-Gvm dn -the lop edge pf each piece. in. %wpNates No. To prevent :%eat: inside the heiCASE The case wnaists of five to matchthe t.the h e 'piG i n p b . .ch@.f&m bui1*up lx& two sides.. the. t otkborib* ~ k b a s e @ e o e s . he d w i a r e cut a badt side. : . see Fi. Nexf I *- I f l .

see F i i 7% &ex&. 7. I . theesbletop. see Fig. . I s d d e c t a d u s t k t$at slides inta the shelf i n tl cab&tt refex to Exploged Vie% b k fJ1 and two flC) fro: : 5/dn. . .ROUTER TABLE CABINET ..thikk plywood. ' I join the h n t ' and back ix t f eul: on Ute ends >he front atld back. .p&.hold Ure 'bottom:! -*. - :II 1 Tu latch Gawdust and ehigs th"c : @lItkrongh'theroate~bit holein .nrtagrqoveDearthebo ~andnailtbebax~: . . ~~ - . to.

. S&'WT~+ MW IRM. 11. saew mag@c catdm fmm ep. * _ doors. W with two piano hinges rmt tdthe with thedoor molding stpiptsei t a s k .Wps. ing.%ti%.I cut n~easure frnm the top of the buw the hack ofont:dwr.$be inside edges of'darh door. . I added an aalnyrcll (0) to wxtstepistor&thed~x)~'fi.. . and divide this in ' motdingp(wtaside earlier]to the . see Fi. front oftheeabinet from s ! r under && .subtract W. attach the my we). #aide && ilsthe:doors.~ e i " i g ~ 8--b .hping and tb i. befom erewing them to the side. .the &ow.rO W.t o t k e d m .8. otbrto the cabinet cdde. 10. 9. hat Then subtraet for the outaide edges. Wit11 he tlust hnx ruatglt~~. For clearaim. we Pig.'l'hsn ~ U nthe t daom . inert a te% .minimize d d e .same 1T u debmine the width of the thi* e c & h p w (i V . h t memre asmsa t& to . far e1a1-d. n e Before n # r u ~ @ e o ~ tile d~ de dew with edg. Then cut t. ter gap f11%&'. I MOLDING- .m . edi&g strip and ' / l i j " for tthe cen#aim%&% T o p v e n %dast. o w cut two doors (M) Fig. Finally. Fig. the 'Ih determine the door leqph. and tke d d e edge% (31%"). A h glue 8iSd m w tke door.dkr .J aad:gIue them me hinge f f q to nr &or and the.-themfrom *-thick plywed and (HI to the top of the sides and .

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