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in Chile. Aconeagua TheMountain

143

south manyyqarslJy CaptainTroyer,the whole of the peninsula in detail. The whole has beerlminutelysurveyed of the Krishna of the BombayPxesidency,Whandeshand the eastern portions onlyexcepted,remainunfinished. Of the Nizam'sor of C;oojerat Hyderabadterritoriesa large portionhas been accurateiysurhave also reyed. The Rajahof Berars,or Nagpoordominions, been triangulatedand surveyed,thollgh with less attention to accuracy. The surveyof the Northern Circarsby Lieutenants as the portiondesiguated Sackville,Buxton,an(l Snell, completes the Peninsula North of this, of which the Nurbuzldais the a verylarge portionunderthe Bengal Presidencyhas lJoundary, adverted already to the methods according surveyed, leen lils;e^rise oleservations; to, that is, routesurveyscorrectedby astronomical and on the easternffontiermuch geographicalmatterhas been Wilcox,Pemlerton,and Grant. a(ldedby Lieutenants But we resers-ethe more completeanel exact details,both of these surveysand of tlle still more im)ortantand valuablesurto a future xressconcluctedby the officersof tlle Indian A0a^Ty,
oplzortunity.

] [ To be concluded. in Chile. By Captain Aconcagua of the Mountain XII.- -Notice Robert:FitzRoy, Royal Navy. the Beagle's surveyof the Ghiliancoast,it was ascerDURING Aconcaguawas higher than the famed tainedthatthe mountain Chimlsorazo.By the mean of the results of manyobservations stationson the coast of l)y the Beagle's officersat difEerent maele the height of Aconcaguaabove the sea Chile, nearValparaiso, made a.t appears to be 23,200 feet. Of variousobservations times,no one resultwas less than 23,000, normorethan different 23,400 feet. in South to recent accounts,the higllest mountains According Americaare2S,400feet . . is saidto be height wllose Sorata, . 24,200 ,, . s . . saidto be Illimani, 23,200 ,, a place,as . claims NexttowhichAconc!agua ? . 22,()00 ,, . . is saidto be . Gualtieri 21,000, . . . . AndChimborazo . thelevelof the ocean. above the height of AconAmongsta varietyof datafor calculavting the best :cagua,the followingare considered Observationmade at Fort San Antonio, Valparaiso,with a goodtheodolite,fortyfeet abovethe level of the sea at half tide. Apgular elevationof the highest point of Aconeaguaabovethe

144

Correspondotce of thelateMr.Davidson.

horizontal plane 1?aS' 4a'. The true bearingof the samepoint vas1N. 74?56 E., andthe distance89,3 miles (of 6()to a degree). Fort San AntonioValparaiso, is considered to be in lat.33? 1'o3 S. and lon^,.71?41' 1D'J W. of Greenwich. CaptainBeecheyhas since made observations br aseertaining the heightof Aconcagua, and their resultis greater than that of the Beagle'sby some hundred feet. Aconcaguais a solcano in the Cordilleraof the Andes; at 1nterVaJS 1t1$aCt1Te. X II I.-Esctracts f}07n the Correspond ence oftAze lateMr.David -

further progress tn theDesert.*

son durfrlg his residence in Morocco; with aln Account of hts

THE muchlamentedclose of Mr. Davidson's life, an eventwhich everymemberof the (5xeographical Societywill unitein (leploring, has made it the melanczholy duty of that body to preservesome ecordof his 1atestesertions in pursuit of geographical knowledge. For tllat purposehis variousfriendsand correspondents were requestel to placein the handsof the Secretarysuch of his letters as containedany obselvations of moment; to this request they readily accededn and tlle acknowledgments of the Society are moreparticulally (lue to His RoyalHighnessthe Dukc of Susses, to whose *,racious encouragement Mr. Davidsonxvasmainlyinclebte(lfor his favourable leceptionin Morocco, an(lwho with his wontedliberality,has allowed the trarlscription of the Inostinterestitlgcommunications leceived from thatenterprising tlaveller. To the extracLs from Mr. Davidson's own letters, are a(lded such accourlts as have been at (lifferellt times forwarded respeeting his furtherprogressand the Xtal terminatiorl of his journey, the partYculars o? which are still involste(l in some doubt,though concerrlint, the main pOillta the loss of his valuablelife, there is unhappily llo place for hope. It svouldhave leen hit,hly gratifyint, had st leen possible to introducethese estracts to the reader,by a detailed memoirof Mr. DavidsonSs exterlsive tras-els in everyqualter of the globe; lout the materials furnishecl by sllch sariousand remotejourneys could not have been collected anel arraneedin the shortpericl whLch has elapsedsillce the sad intelligellceQf his end has been authenticated. Those journeysvere also performed lefore th?ir author xvasin corlespon(lencewith this Society, an(l for that reasonare not llecessarilyconnectedsrith its Journal. His illstructiv>? leeture on the site of Jerusalem and the Inovements of the investingarmies,the lnanuseript of which,had it receivedits
t For the nutes at the fBot of the page, the :l?oxeign Secretmy is answerable.

of thelafeMr.David:son. Correspondence

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counterpart formed a suitable would have lastcorrections, author's anddescribed he opened whicrh of a mllmmy to his description in this afterhis returnfrom Egypt,mighthavelzeeninserted and to topography confined hadit notlzeentoo closely collection, disqxusitions. geographical among placed to le properly history was not whoseardour of 1835,Mr. Davidson, In thesumtner
he ha(l alreadyescheckedby the manyhazardsand d;fficulties project of a journeyinto the perienced,formedthe adventurous heartof Africa by what may be termed the most direct route on his 18.353 for Gibraltar, in September, embarked He therefore he hopedto reachTombuktu fro3n whichcountry wayto Morocco, by the routeof Tafilelt,the road by whichRenfeCaille tras-elled obfrom that city northwards. To the almost insurmountalJle wouldmeet llim at eversstep, Mr. Dasidsonwas no stacleswhich howeverhis ower of enduring stranger. His personalcouragen to at findingexpedients fatigue and chanZeof climate,readiness whicll obviate difEculties,and, above all, his peculiar urbanity, even strangersin his favour,gave his couldnot fail to prepossess whicheven friends,and still more perhapshimself,a confiderlce coul(l hardlyjustify. To many those excellent qualifications valuable in such an underparticularly other accomplishments knowledgeof medicine,to which, he addeda considerable takilag o? indeed, he was in the main indebtedfor the accomplishment that part of his journeywhich he cli(l execute; an(l shoul(lhis papers have escaped the lloticeof the savageswho assassinated leaf to the laurclswithwhich add another him, theymayhereafter is alreadygraced. his larow was was accompanied The only personby whomMr. I)avidson of Edward in the West Indiesby the appellation a negrobaptized Donnelan, but letter known in this countryby his Muselmtin nameof Abu Bekr of whomsome accounthas been givenin tllis mentionedin the followingletters Jourrlal.4 He is occasionally by the nameo? Abou, and should he not have sunk under the privationsand fatigues o? the desert, may possibly hereafter employerSs of his lamented account supplyus witha moreauthentic en(l thanany +hich we havehithertoreceivel. was well awareof the lMr.Daxidson,as was before remarkecl, difficultieswllich awaitedhim, and at Gibraltar,where he was of clearinghis detainednearlythree months by the impossibility

he lnetMr.Hay, His Britannic of Morocco, wayintothe empire (he to think" who; seems in Barbary, Consul-General Majesty's 1835);; thatve lSth September, saysin a letterto Dr. Lee,dated to was notso easily get on." His resolution shallnotbe ablctc} therea to Tangier, andaftel waiting be shaken;he procee(le(l
vi * VQL, XNOLWII. r
102,
f

Tanjah.

of the late Mr. Dauidson. Corresyondence his of informing time, had at length the satisfaction that he had considerable Mr. T. Davidson,on the 13th December, larother, fromthe receiveda mostkind and flatteringletter morning that " minister," his by a fewlines from accompanied of Morocco, Sultan court,where he should experithe to repair to him commanding agreeableto him. This letter be nothingbut what would ence the kaid of by anotherto " E1'Arbi Essaidi, accompanied was conduct, safe his for everything him to rovide directing Tangier, to pass, ha(l he whom by governors the all inclosinglettersto and inashospitality, and they should pay him respect,honour, that that fellow-creatureshis benefit as he was travellingto xnuch horseten of guard a him governor[al-kaid] should provide the would enforcerest)ect who [captain], kai(l a I)y commande(l men, Sultan, their master's the of performance ensure the due an(l with respect an(l treate(l whichwere that he should be orders, the governor him, for inclosed Majesty and that his consideration; the kaid for )ay extra Tanjah],moneyfor the soldiers,andbe gui(ledby his {liscre[of and were to act un(ler his orders, who after a delay of three tion."" Such,)'he adds," is the manner, undertaking. I almostfear my arduous that I commence enonths, must only use the more lJut itis of too flatteringa character, discretion." from the to the receipt of these graciousorders Antecedently either been not had Tanjah at residence Mr. Davidson's Sultan, extract following the as appearsfrom or encouraging, agreeable written (lOth December) only three Lee, Dr. to letter a from [Abu companion beforethe last: " My goo(l and grateful days morning this has he lines Bekr] I)egs me to forwar(lthe few as to anyparticulars to you, and I wish I couldsend you written this of portion small on the ourjourney,or anynew observations three or two of exception the whichwe haveseen. With country been confined [at] the utmostunderfiftymiles, I have excursions, to propermission Sultan's to the walls of this place, waitingthe of this people exceeds all jealousy ceed into the interior The an(lI feartheir determibelief; their insults[are] innumeral)le, however,I)y means have, I nationis not to allowus to procee(l. of the governor of this place of a few presents,boughtthe interest in the places the visit to and of Tetuan, and have been allowed I view whose but never withouta soldier, fromof the neighneighbourhood, some cannotproceedone step. I have examine(l of jasper and mostrich in iron,andspecimens bouringmountains, hours at the some passe(l large masses of fossils. I have also havetakenmeasurements or Arab encampments, douars,$ various Peg, as it is called; some the Outset, or Pharaoh's of the ruinscxf
146
tellt. * Adwar,plural of dar, a cilculal; or stake, Autad is corruptly pronounced peg a YVatad, of plural + Autal, UtsEzl or Uttset.

Davidson. ofthe late 7Wr. Coq*respandence

147

on whichI hope shortlyto send to England. I proobservations to proceed pose next week, shouldI not receive my permission south,[to] go fromheneeto the Divarretts,amongstwhose hills are some Bedouins. One large tribe, who used to escort the hadjis from this to Meeea, still remainin the neighbourhood; take me and I thinksomeof themwouldfor a good eonsideration from wheneeI eould get upon the earavan-traek to Mourzouk, with the Sheik of for Sou(lan. I have had some eonversation Wadnoon*here, on his returnfrom Meeea; but he states he eannottake me throughMoroeeo,but will proteet me, shouldI with get to his dominions. The seeond rains have eommeneed is impassal)le, morethanusualviolenee,and part of the eountry which may aeeountin some de(rreefor [my] not reeeivingmy answerfromMoroeeo. I shall lose no tirneas soonas I reeeive this, nor shall I delay more than this month, and if this fail, I shall eommeneethe year by a nexvroute. My health, thank God, is verygood; but I am sorryto say that Abou has had his sight muehaSeeted; and I fear he is veryunequalto the journey. eare of him ly nursinghim; andhe is, too, I I am takinges-ery grieveto say, an olejeetof greatsuspieion." Mr. Davidsonlost no time in Secure un(lersueh a protection, of givinghis proceedingto tlle eapital, and had the satisfaetion letter: brotlleran aecountof his progressin the following of MulaillIoussa, " TheGarden 18thJan. 1836. Morocco, trans" My dearBrother, I fear from what has aeeidentally pire(l, that it is the Emperor'sintentionto detainme here for soInetime. I havelittle eausefor regret, this not being the season for me to erossthe ehainof Atlas, and any hurryon my part might prove highly injurious orhich wouldonly lead to suspicion, to my projeets. Aecor(lingto the Sultan'sdireetions,I started and his ten soldiers, with my caid[kaid,or captain] fromTan(rier the first two hours,ly thirty of the consular Efor] accompanie(l, corps: tlle toozl xvishesof all, I lelieve, I possess-lMr. John the Swe(lishViceHay, the Consul'sson, and WI.Crusentolphe, journey. I me on to Ralat,+ eight days' Consul,accompanyillg greatpleasurefromthe company foundmuchl)enefit,and (lerive1>1 of these gentlemen,tlle formerof wholn is a perfect master of in procuringan excelAraloic. I havebeell alsomost fortunate to the Britisll F who hol(lsthe officeof interpreter lent dragoman, threemonths'leave of at Tetuan,andwho has ol)tained Conslllate
* \5ia(li NGIl,or Ntt1,the valley ()rriver of Nooll or Nool. t Rabat, i.e, Restillg-place) Caravan-selsil; btlt here the llaxneof a town.-F. fi. a wor(lof the same origin tIS the Chal(leey iIlte?rpretel, + Terjllmall or Tarjulnain,
' Tarntl;n.

148

Correspondence of fAe latePWr. I)avzdson.

absence,andis now my paid servant. He has twiceattended the Englishmedicalmen who havebeen sent forto attendthe Sultan, with whomhe is a greatfavourite. To Rabat,the countrypresents little wortlly of observation; a fine fertileplain,richvalleys, withnumerous streams, anda succession of mountain rangesreaching as far as the eye will carry one. A little circumstance had nearlydeprived me of the greatsourceof safety,andthe mainstay on whichI has-eto rely. Crossingan arm of the sea, at the Coubbaof Mulai 13enAbsolam,* my mules got into a quicksand, and I was obligedto dismount my soldiers,whoha(lto wadethe ford,theirhorses accompanying thebaggage, theropesbeingpasse(l roundthe mules'necksand haunches to dralv t-hem out. Mostof my clothes[were]spoiled,andmanyof mylittle luxuries destroyed. Our reather, fortunately, was fine, and this inducedus to stop an(leIryour clothes,+rhich keepingus too late to reachour place appointed for encampment, we sent on the Sultan'sletter to hase a mona and house preparedat Mehidia.t The man mistook the road; and on our arris-al, the Governor refusedto give anything to eitherthe soldiers,muleteers,or the animals. He ha(l lJeentold all his directions w-ere in the letter, and his only verbal orderswere to pay lne everyrespectandhospitality. He tookme and my party out to his gardens,got readya part of his house, provided most amplyfor the threeand my servants,lJutleft both men and beastsstarving, they not havinghad any food,this being Ramadan, for eighteen hours. Startingme in the morning,he gave me an a(lditional escortof thirtymen, to take me to Sallee, opposite to Rabat. Arriveflthere, we were again withoutour letter; loutthe Emperor'sson had sent ordersaboutme. I ha(l to make some disturl3ance here; was detainedtwo days,to wait for an escortof 200 horse, to be relievedby other200, owingto an insurrection which has just larokenout amongstthe Zaire, who, it appears,expectingI was comingrichlyladen,had determinedto take me. They had plundereda11 thc partieswho had, for the last three days, passed their district. My letter arrivin, the Governor alteredhis tone tow-ards me. I had refusedto pay him a secondvisit,becauseI wasnot treate(l wwrith sufficient respect, and informed him I shouldappeal to the Sultanon my arrival at this place tMoloccr]. He now comesto say my guard is ready, and he intendsto accompany me the first two hours, whenthe Lieutenant-Gosernor is to take me on to the Commantler of the lSorces,who is posted at midway betweenthis and the Douarat xvhich I am to sleep. This sight was mostleautiful: the variety
* The Kubbah (sepulchral chapel) of a gaint named Mula-;(Doctor) Ibn 'Abdes-salam.

t zleheaiyah (the city of Mehed).

Sala.

Correspotndence of {helateMr.I9avidson.

149

ofW dressand arms,the beautyof the Bast horse,and the meeting of sixtyof the Oudaia*, who, addedto my firstescort,swelledour partyto above300. We had a slight row on the road,[and]took one man,whichhad nearlyset the escortat war. The poorfellow claimed the protectionof the Oudaitby a sit,nwhichthey must acknowledge, and these,with someof theircomrades amongst the partywhoaccompanied me fromRalat, separating fromthe main body,prepared theirguns for action. I had some(liiculty, with the assistance of my caid,who appealedto their conductbefore the personthey had to escort. One mantwas]severely wounded, an(lmanyEwere the] losses of turlans, caps, Ac. At our halt, hasinglJeenjoine(lby a large caravan on the road,we covereda considerable space. " I encampedin the centre: my marquee,my cai(l'stent, two tents for my soldiers; Hassan, a sortof consular agent, going to l\lazagan,with a little black tent lJetweenmine and the caid's; ollr muleteersin the rear; our horsesand mules in a circle,and surrouncled by aboutsixty soldiers: outside of this, the camels an(lthe rest of the party[were] (listurbed in the night by a lart,e wolf,who had prowled in amongstus. Of these and the wild boarLthere arej manytraces. [Te were]off early,and at eleven experienced a hurricane, whicllololiged us all to stop. Our animals [were] unalule to face it, and wre obligedfor safetyto dismount. I]ere ollr guardleft us. A11drencheel tothe skin,[we] proceeded to Dar-el-Beida,-t andha(lno soonergot our tents up, thanI received a messagefromMulaiAbdrahman, 0 the Emperorns secondson, to say he haelprepare(l a placefor me in the courtof the palace,alld thatit wastoo dangerous to sleepoutside thewalls. I went,praying to be excused the fatigueof strikingthe tents uselessly. " On enteringthe town I was received by his guard, who gallopint, close to ]ne, firedtheirguns so nearmy face that I was nearlyblinded. EThePrinceis] a poor,punyboy, but havinga veryintelligent, waryMentor. TIe had the ordersof his father to l)ixlme urelcome. iFrom thisto Azamor,? on the OomerBegh,ll whereI met with the lJestof all receptions, the Governor accompanie(lme to Moloccowithsixtyhorse. We ascende(l the three steps to the plain of Morocco. On the last night, at a place calledSwynia, I wasrolabed of yourgoldwatchan(lpartof Abou's
clotlles. They has-esince leell returned. On crossinga kalltarahll ovel the Tensift, I was met by a party of soldiers commanded ly a caid, to bi(l me welcome in the Emperor's name, his Majesty being out reviewing his cavalry. They were to con(luct me to the
t

* Mredaya(ralley-mell). + Dar el belda, the white house. Mulal Ab4.er-rahman, Duke or Prince Abelwer-rahmtin. ? Azamur. Umm-er-rabi',i, e., the motherof spring. t K. antarah i. e. bridgwe.

150

Correspondence of thelateMr.Davidsoxt.

ruinsI nowinhabit. I was takenroundthe walls by Haha, the place of the lepers, who have not the privilegeof enteringthe city. This addedabovesix miles to my alreadylongjourney. I found this place greatlyin ruins: it must have been splendid. My room,whichis l)ed-roomandparlour an(la11,is thirty-eight feet long, eighteenwide, twenty-sis high, richlyornamented, but withoutthe slightestarticleof furniture. This formsone room of a square, the other parts [I)eing]occupied by my servants, the caid,his soldiers,&c. And I have this day an accession of fifty persons,withthe Emperor's father-in-law,whohas cometo pay his respects, this lJeingthe season of the feast afterRamadan.8 The old Moor,Seedy Mulai Ben Alee Aledrahman, has pai(lme a visit,and hasbecomea patient. This everwing I had to see his laclies,all fancying they were ill, [and eager]to see the Christian aftertwo days'quiet (as they call it), that is, not travelling. I was orderedto be in readiness as soon as it became dark, to go and see the Minister. A personwould comefor me, and I was to put on a cloak, and followwith my dragoman. At seven,an old Moor,withtwo sol(lierscarrying lanthorns,came for me: I was surrounded, as soonas I +^ras out of my gate, by sol(liers,and taken,as well as I could judge, about two miles, throughlarge massesof ruins,crowded bazaars,t (the people gis-ingway), and numerousnarrowstreets. Not a word; lout at each gate my guardpronounced the word E1 Hadge,and we pa.ssed. Arrived at a low door-way, a black askedforthe word-this waspronounced- and then my dragomanand I were ushered into a narrow passagein total darkness. Through the court-yard into whichthis opened we obsersed several persons pass out; xvhen a stnalldooropeningbehindus, the Minister(whomwe had seen at the palacein the morning) was waitingto receiveus. Tea was brought,andin the centreof this roomstood a single chair, on which I was to sit. I was then ba(lewelcomein the nameof the Sultan,[and was tol(l] that I was to considermyself his guest; that I had only to wish,andit shouldbe granted; that his master was only waiting for the fast to terminate, whenhe wouldsee me. A hostof fulsomecompliments ! " I was then shown the vegetable productions of the country usedas medicines;requested to reportupontllem; andquestioned as to the progressof me(licalscience. I spokeof the countries I hadvisited,and ras assure(l that I shouldfin(lmoreto be please(l with in my reception here. I was then askedto feel the Minister's pulse, and reporton his health; then to know if I would esaminehis blackladies,two of whomwere but so-so,--a pretty jol) ! I playecl my partwell. Or(lerswere giventhat no one be
slave

* Balreim, or, zltdet1 Doha. Aswak} plural of Sok,or Suk,the Arabwordb1 marketbazarin Persiaxl.

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admitted. 1 was then told that the Lieutenant-Governor of the Meshwar * would come in the morning,and take me to all the Sultan'spalacesan(l gardens, and that a guardwould be at my command wheneverI wishedto go out. I shalS describe all these to you ^shenI get hoihe. I am undera strictespionage, andworrie(lto (leath withpatients. I sawthe Sultanwhilstpassingthrough his palace,and havereceived his ordersto visithimon Fri(lay. His favourite wife is ill, and the difficulty is hOW tO let me see her. I haverefusedto prescribefor her, without. The court-physician is here twice a-day,an(l I haveassistedhim in one or two cases, and he thinksthere neverwas such a doctor. A Seidlitzpowder astonishelhim beyonal all ltelief. I go next week to Atlasto visit some strange cities inhabited by Jesvs. Of these I writeto His Royal Highness. E1 Hadge is here again,to say the Sultanhas sent himto say that five of his guardwill be here in the morning to conduct me to the greatmarkets, and afterthis to aninspection of the cavalry, and to ask if anythingcan l)e done to makeme morecomfortable." Notwithstanaling his incessantand wearisomeoccut)ationas both physician an(l apothecary to the MaroquineCourt, Mr. Oavidson foun(lleisurefor scientificinquiries, not forgetting those to which his attentionhad been particularly directedby H.R.H. the Presidentof the RoyalSociety,who with hiswell-known condescensionha(l desired this enterprising travellerto correspond with him. The resultof his firstinquiries was communicated in these terms:" AIorocco, 3rd February, 1836. " SIR,-I havedeferredtakint,advantage of yourRoyal Highness's condescension in permittint,me to ad(lressyou, hoping that I shoukl'ere this havema(lemyexcursion to the five villaoes in the valleyof the SouthernAtlas,inhabited by Jews, whodifler mtlchfromany I haveyet met with. HithertoI havel)een able to glean but little fromthe fervwho visit the city,whichis principally supplie(l by them with charcoal; but having this day receivedthe Sultan's permission to procee(lan(lto continuemy journeyto Wadnoon (from whichplace I hope to join a caravan now collecting,to procee(lto Sou(lan)? shoul(lI succeedin this, I should not have an opportunityof ad(lressingyour Royal Highness; an honour of whichI shall ever feel most proud. ' The Jews of Atlas are far svlperior, both physicallyand morally,to their brethren residing among the Moors. Their familiesare numerous,an(l eachof these is underthe immediate protection of a Berber (the alsoriginalinhabitantsof North Africa), patron, or master. They have, however,their own
$

Meshwar, Council.

152

Mr.Davidson. of {heIcute Corresporldence

all mattersare referred. Sheik, a Jew, to whosejurisdiction who are amongst the Moors, Differing fromthe Jews residing laws,theyarenotin thesamestate punished by the Mussulman or sers-itude; their case is one of patronand of debasement arid the Berber is boundto equalprivileges, client,andall enjoy takeup the causeof the 3ew uponall emergencies.Theya11 carry arms, and serveby turnswith theirpatrons. Theystate
[that] they did not go to the Babylonish captivity; that they they have a city cut out of the solid possess many writings; thawt rock, with rooms above rooms, in which they dwelt upon [their] first coming to this countly; and that there are some writings carved in these rocks which they attrilouteto some early Christians who came and drove them into the valley [which] they now inhabit. As I purpose making some few days' stay amongst them, zmder the plea of searching for medicinal plants, I hope to be able to furnish your Royal Highness with some interesting er if these particulars respecting these people, an(l to zliscos reports be true. I have received an invitation from their patriarch, who wishes to be informed the day before I visit them; it being his intention (having heard I had paid some attention to the sick Jews residing here) to come out to meet me. Your Royal Highness xvill scarcely credit the ignorance and debasement of the Jews of Morocco. The chief of the Millah, their Quarter was astonished to hear that the BilJle used by the Christians contained the Psalms of David; and much more so, to hear that the Psalms were sung daily in our churches. I have endeavouredin vain to learn anything from them on your Royal Highness's question as to the change of their time. I have been detained above a month in this city, owing to the indisposition of the Sultan, and the sickness of many of his favourites,and have been appointed court-physician. My stock of medicines is nearly exhausted, and having to see upon an average, fifty patients a day, and compoun(l the whole of the medicines myself, my

own healthhas begun to suffer. AlthoughI am fed from I haveno time to take my food- my patients the royaltalJleX till dark; and I am coming at break of day, and remaining seldom ableto prepare the necessary medicines before midnight. to go to the if it maybe so called,having (; I havea respite, to morning, but then all his ladieshavesomething Sultanevery I have to writefromthe askfor; andbeforeI see his Highness them complaints, andbring all theladies' mouths of the elmuchs something the next day. This is unknown to his Highness, to
whom I have respectfully refused to prescrile, unless I can [see] sny patients. The head-physicianhas been ordere(l to spend two hours a-day in my toom, to learn my treatment, and his son is to come in the evening, and see the mode of compoundingmedicines.

"I lras detaine(l by the snow after leas-ing Morocco .........................................My

Correspondence af thelateMr.DaqJidson.

153

The commonMoorishdoctors, who have but one remedy,firing, havebeen sent to performtheircures beforeme; I have had to nakea reportuponthe stateof medicalsciencein all the countries I havevisite(l,and to examine the few medicinesthey use, and state my opinions. Having accidentally statecl[that] I believed manyof theircomplaints arosefiom the manner of preparing their food, I have ha(l to taste i1 the Sultan's(lishes,to mix simple lrinksfor llim, and to look at the soil in which his vegetablesare cultixJated.But all to no purpose; they prefertheir ovvn plan to any recommendation of mine. I am happy, however,to inform yourRoyal Highness) that by strictly complying withtheirwishes, an(l havingbeen molsethan[ordinarily] fortunate in my practice, I have made many friends, succeede(l in remonng suspicion, and obtaine(lfiom the Sultawn the promiseof every assistance. He has presentedme with a {ine horse, gis-enme a guard of ten soldiers, and promisedme one hundred to escort me to Wadrloon, where his territory finishes. T am in treatywith the Sheik of Wa(lnoon, has-ing offeredhim one thousan(ldollars if he will ensuremy life to Timbuctoo; and the only diXerence now is between accidentor climate. But as I well knowthat es-ery accident will be corlstrue(l intoclimate,I vv-ill not pay the sumtill he placesme in the city. I beg now mostrespectfully to present xnyhumbleduty to your Royal Highness,andwith my fervent prayersthat your Royal ISighnesssshealth may be perfectly established, " I havethe honour to remain, " Your Royal Highness'sveryobe(lient, humlule servant, " JOHNDAVIDSON. Earlyin March, 1836, the Emperor's health havingbeen restored, his English physician was at length permittedto travel, not, as he X-ished, to the S.E., but to the S.W., the route by T;ifilelt being interdicte(l by the good-willor Jealousyof the Sultan. Mr. Davielson, hovever, was preparedfor this disappointment,an(lhad already taken steps to secure a good reception amongthe AralJs of XVad Nun, on the north-western border of the $ahra. On the 7th of March,1836, he announce(l his arrivalat Agadir, or SantaCruz, in a letter to his brother, which has furnished the following extracts:receptiollan(lstay at courthas surprise(l everybody. I haxethe most favourable promises of supportan(l assistance,but do not lJelieve quite a11 that is sai(l,the Sultanhavingmade me promise to return to his empire,and pass some months at Fez, or Mequinez,to instructhis peoplein the practiceof medicine. Leaving Morocco, I attempted the ascentof Atlas,atTrasremoot, but at the elevation of fiw-e thousnd ket was compelledby the snow

154

of thetateMr.Dav?dson. Corrsspondence

to de5cend. This led me to nsit a line of countryas yet unseen villages of by Europeant. I inspected more than one hundred and ordersllad been given Jews and Berbers,was well treatedn shouldcomeout to meet placethe governor that at eachprincipal townsshould me with his peopleunder arms; that the principal furnishthree hundredfowls, ten sheep, and ten ducats for my maintenance, and providebarleyfor my horses antl mules, and those of my soldiers. At the places where I only passed, the of milk and chief af the Jesvswere to come and make offerings orpatriarchal wine; the formerleing changedfromthe primitive offering o?lread. These I had to touchandpur a little of each on my horse'smane. This done,food,both rawand (lressed,was to proceed. At oSered; and aftera sortof song, I was suffered and all the valleysthey were desiled to bringme the productions, to showme any and all plants used as food or medicines; and an opinion. on these I had to pronollnce and my " My practiceas a medicalmanhas been so fortunate, distributic)n of medicinesso general, that I have had workto twelve answere+ren the questions. During my stayin Morocco, hundredpersons passetl through my hands, and I had, at one the worhole of thc Ministry, time, the Sultan,severalof his LadiesS of the Forces,and Corps,the Commander the Cadi and Ju(lic;al Seedy Abdel Kader, the four great Saints, Seedy P5enAlabasS under my care. The Eib and ySeedy Omberak,* Seexly :P?ush Zaire, of whom I wroteto you, and who inten(ledto makeme their prisoner,have larokeninto open warfare,and the people for the northto here are only waitingfor the Sllltanls departure to letcommence a disturbance. These people are all favourable ting ule pass, and the Suses ;tndthe Waled Abusebas, whomI had been teld to fear, have sent to beg of me to comeon. My the Sulis to get out of this eml)ire. I haxre presentdiffioulty S he having no powerto protan's order to remainat Terodant, informs tect me beyondthis; but Stleik Beirock,of VWJadnoon, me he will; and had I not appliedto the Sultanfor a letter of rotection,he wouXlhave taken me and passed me acrossthe Deserta )rovidedI wouldpayhim a consideration. {' I4e will send me bya rollteusedonlyby his couriers;but for for twomonths, this, at this season,I musttakewaterandprovision whichwill be postedaboutini(landsend on some dromedariesn and way,where I have to halt: and by leas-ingmytired one?s, proceedingwithouta stop, I shall be able tt) pass before the Tuaricks have knowledgeof my arrival. All this I feel I can Abou, is, I am afraid,quite unequalto it. do; but mycompanion, Sheik Beirockrsbrother,who is withme tells me Abou will be
t

* Sidi Ibn 'Abbas,'Abd el kadir, Abu Sheib, Mubarek. + Tarudant,capital of Sus. Aulad Abu Sebi, the tribe of Father Lion.

Correspandence of thelateMr.Davidson.

155

a safe passport for mejas soon as I arrive in Soudan; thatone of his familyis the presentSheik of Timbuctoo, and that his cousin, theson of Abou's uncle from whom he was stolen, is nowthe king of Houssa. He was fully acknowledged at Morocco, and my dragoman had orders fromthe palace to treat him withrespect, as he was a Muley (prince). How we shall get on, I know not. I shall writeone letter after I knowthe Sultan'sintention, but if you shoul(l not hearfor somemonths,you mayrest satisfiecl [that] I have passetiWadnoon. I feel thatthe same Provi(lence whichhas hitherto preserved andprotecte(l me,will guard me throughall the difficulties an(l (langersI am about to encounter. Shoul(lI not fflet on, I shall makea virtueof necessity, returnto the Su]tanat Fez, an(l make the best excuse to get to Tafilelt. I am, thankGo(l, quite well, and have commenced training,taking two spare meals a-day, living principallyon brea(l; rice, eggs, andweaktea; no wine, andveryrarely meat; exosing myself muchto the sun,and sleet)ing in the air." The Sultanhad commanded Mr. Davidsonto wait at TerodEnt,the capitalof Sus el aksS,altoutforty miles south-eastof SantaCruz,till he shouXlbe able to affor(l him a secureprotection in his progresssouthwards: but a c(3rresp0n(1ence alrea(ly establishe(lby the traveller^viththe Arab cl-liefof Wa(l Nun) who is in name only subjectto the emperor,and has the power of securinga passa^eacrossthe desert,anzlimpatience of further detention afterso long a (lelay, ma(le him anxiously entreatpermissionto a(lvallceas far as Wa(l Nun, and insteadof remaining at Tero(lant,* he rei airedto ,SIlweirMl or Mogador, aboutseatenty miles due northof Santa(Cruz,where he haclthe ads-antage of enjoyingthe society of Mr. Willshire, BritishVice-Consul7 on whoseaidin promoting his vievws he knew he couldrely. From thatplace he ha(l again an opportunity of a(lelressing the Duke 0: : DUSSeX. ' Moyador, March 18tS,1836. " SIR-After a fruitlessattemptto crossthe westernbranch of Mount Atlas, owing to the unusualquantityof snow, I have been oblige(l to conle to this place, which affordsme another opportunity of takingadvantage of yourRoyal LIighness's condescensionin permitting me to a(l(lress you. Having receis-ed the Sultan'sconsentto crossthe mountains for the purposeof visiting the Jews, I left lHoroccofor Mesfywa,aml takingthe routeby
. d >

* i\Iay we be allowed to lament the! impetuosity of our lamented travellers zeal ? At TeFro(lallt he woul(l,for a consi(lerabletime, have had ample occupation for every leistlre moment. In a covtntryknown only by naxne, abounding with vegetal)les alld fa)ssilsnever yet examined, and ill the midst of the Berbers,whose history and habits so few h3ve been able to sttldy, supt)ortedalso by the favourof the Court, how largelymight Mr. Davi(lsollhave illereasealour stores of knowledge had he been willing to yield to the Sultan'sprecautiolls!

156

Correspondence of thelste Mr.Davadson.

Trasremoot,reached an elevationof 5000 feet; but here the loose characterof the snow, and the uncertaintyof the track, obliged me to abandon my project. I was accompanied in this journey by a Rabl)i,from the district of Coubbaor Cobba,to whichplace it wasmy intentionto haveproceeded. From this man I received much curiousinformation, and have yet great hopes of reaching the peopleof whomhe spoke,and to whomhe belongs, lefore I returnto Englan(l. He informedme thatin this place,nearly as extensive as thatin whichthe cityof Morocco is situated, there are not less than 3000 or 4000 Jews livingirl perfectfreedom,and followinges-ery varietyof occupation;that they havemillesand quarries whichthey work,possesslargegardens and extensivevineyards, and cultivatemorecorn than they can possiblyconsume; thatthey havea formof government, an(l havepossessedthis soil from the time of Solonlon; in proof of whichhe stated [that] they possess a recordbearingthe signet and sign of -Joab,who came to collect tributefromthem in the time of the Son of Dasid; that the tradition of theirarrival here runsthus ' Crossing the Great Sea to avoitl the land of Egypt, they came to a headof land witha river; thathere they landed, and following the course of this leading westward,but going towardthe south, they cameto a spot where they found twelve svells and seventypalm-trees. This at first led them to suppose that they had by some means got to Elim; but finding the mountains on the west, they were satisfiedthat they hacl reache(la new country: finding a passageover the mowntains,, they crossedand took up their dwelling in this valley, first in cas-es,which exist in great numbers,then in otherswhich they eancavated, andafterthis began to build towns; that at a distant perio(l,they were drisrerl acrossthe mountains by a people that wouldnot acknowledge them,and that some remained at Dimi net, Mesfywa,and otherplaceson the westernside of the range.' Lookingat the xnap,and followingthis man'sobservations, it is perfectlyeasyto tracethem. They musthavereachedthe gulf of Tremesen, and takingthe river Muluwia,or Mahala,have reached Tafilelt, where, to this day, are twelve wells planted roundwith seventypalm-trees, and whichmany of the Jews call Elim; and fromthis they [must]havetaken the pass to whichI attempted to get. Knowingthe interestyour RcxyalHighness takesin all thatrefersto the historyof the Jews, I have offiered this manfifty dollarsto obtain a copy of the recordupona skin Ofthe samesize andpatternas thatwhichcontains it, an(lten dollars for the copyof tlro tombstones to whichthe Jews maketheir pilgrimages, and these he promises to sendto the Jew agentin Morocco in six months,providedI do not in the mearltime visit Coubba. On asking him if, at any period,they had a great

of thelafeMr.Didson. Correspondence

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of the breaking to theirnumber,or if he knew anything accession and told oSof the tribes,he seemedanxiousto drop the sulJject, me that the ulore learneelmen whom I shouldsee at CcsulJba could better informme; thatfromtime to time, Jers came to them,but that these tombsand the writingsthey possess contain all their histcory.This man returnedwith me. I was most to knowthe meaningof the namesof someof the towns: anxious is OomSiwa, the Mother he told me whatthe Moorscall Mesfywa of Siwa,8 one of their familieswhich crossed [the mountains]; that Ourlka- of the il\Ioors,distant thirty miles, was 'Reblva, and that mostof these places one of theirdaughters, founde(lI:)y Hel)rew names. At Ourlkahe left me. I contihad originally by the Jews, to nueelfor eight elaysto sisit the towns inhalJited the numberof above 100, and I shouldsay thaton this side there than are more Jews dwellingwith the Berlers in the mountains resident in Morocco. They have all the same account of who they say and have a greatbelief in the Cal)allists, Coul)ba, from Heaven. still exist,and lvho receivedirect communication I here send your Royal Highnessa few of the namesof the princannotprocure lost my Rabbiinterpreter, cipal towns,but having of them: Argum, Roosempt,Towra,Towright,Ai the meaning Tedeeli, Tisgin (very large, Tattal, Tamazert,Zowisiderhald, 200 families),A Mismish(1a0 families),Sefelmal,to the townon the Wad el Fis." of this letter is takenup with an accountof a The remainder wasnot misif ?\1r.Davidson phenomenon, singularphysiological le(l I)yerroneousinformation. He says that hehad leen told are found in great numbersin the empire of hermaphrodites that they are avoide(las impure, and speciallymenAborocco; tionedin the Nluselmanlaw; that the Sul an'sminister,SieliIln Idris, one of the best informedpersonsin the empire,assured him that thereare numlersof themat Fez. The onlyindividual haelan whomMr. Davidson calle(la khuntha,or hermaphrodite, of examining,was one cf those cases of imperfect opportunity met within Europe. whichare occasionally formation At the closeof the above letterhe adds, " I aln happyto inform yourRoyal Highnessthat I havethe greatestsupportfrom of my proceedingto Svudan, and he hopes Ben Driss in favour the Sultanwill ordermy leturn by Tafileltto 'ez. I havecc)mwho under7ith the Sheik of Wadnoon, uletedmy arrangements takes,for a sum whichI depositin the handsof the consulhere,
* This is (loubtlessa mistake, llnless the Jews call the place Umm-Slwah. l'he man did not understalldthe mealling of the narne,an(l thereforesai(l this to screel: his ignorance. t This is Aghmit Warikah of the Arabs, so named from a Berber tribe, to dise tinguish it froln Aghmat Aik'ln.-F. S.

158

Cortesporzdence of thelafeMr.DariCan.

Mr. Willshire,whohas managed the matterwith greatjudgment, to place me safelyin Timbuctoo, provided the Sultanof Morocco does not object. I only wait the answerto the letters sent to make this request. My companion Abou'sfamilyis still on the throne of TimlJuctoo;Hamed Libhoo, the present king, lJeing one of his cousins,and Fehidier, king of Houssa,another of his relations, and Mltoled Munsor Eneeloo,king of Bambara, is well knownto him." In the monthof April, 1836, Mr. Willshire, H. B. Majesty's vice-consul in the empire of Morocco, received the emperor's royalpassportfor l!lIr. Davidsonand his companion to proceed from Agadeerto Wadnoon, in consequence of whichthey immediately set out, an(lreachedthat place onthe 22nd of April,*but asno caravan was then likely to l)e assembled, they were long detained in that sultryregion. During this interval Mr. Davidson again addressed the Duke of Sussex. " Tekznecou, WcDdnoon, 3rd July, 1836. " SIR,-Presenting my humble (lutyto your Royal Highness, Ibeg leave to offermy most grateful thanksfor the letter and its enclosures, andfor whichI shalle+rer feel indebtedto your Royal Highness's condescension. This, with other letters, found me returned to this place,afterseveralineSectual attemptsto prevail u)onanyof the tribesto escort me the Sahara,ton the confines of whichI have been for theacross last three months,withthe prospect of a furtherdetention to the commencement of September. The objectionof the Sultan of Morocco to my entering the districto? Suse is owing, as he stated,to the dangerous and unsettled state of the country. The with which I had to contend in passing difficultiesand de]ays throughthe numerous tribes now settled in the countries of Upper and Lower Suse having no semlulance of government and acknowle(lging no power, brought me to Wadnoon too late for the springCafilas, and at a period when the intense heatdeterredeven the Arabsfrom attempting the Sahara. Money,that all-powerful engine,prevailed UPO11 five o? the best of the Dummanees, who camewith the van of the greatCafilafrom Soudan, to undertake with Sheiks Mohammed and Khiafee(who haveeach made the journeytwenty times) to conduct me in safetyto Timbuctoo, provided they were guaranteed a certainsum of money; but this at the request of Sheik Beyrock, underwhose protectionI only last threemonths,an(lfor whosepermission have been for the paid veryheavily. All our arrangements to pass I havealready were coulpleted the 6th
* Mr. Davi(ls()ll's Letter, Journ. of Geogr. Soc., vol. vi. p. 430. + Sahra is a large level area, a plain, but applied peculially to the Great Desert. African + Kafilah, the Arab word answering to the Persian Kar-ravan.

Correspondenee of thelafeMr.Datidsan.

of June,the day appointed for starting. On the 4th of this month the GreatCafila, which was twenty daysbehind its time, reached the encampment fromwhich I was to havestarted:this brought sadnews. It ha(lbeenattacked twiceon the route; the lasttilneonlyfourdays'journeyfrotnthis place, thirteenpersons

killed, much property taken, and many slaves set at liberty. The Dummaneesha(l charge at this time, and were l)oundto avent,ethis. They attacke(la large encampment of the tribe Er(lghebat, the assailants of the Cafila,carriedof one thousand camels, three hundred horses, an(l twenty-eight of tlle choicest slaves. This at once soundedthe tocsin. All the trilJes were in arms, each calling upon the other to take their parts The Erdghebatattackedthe town of Tajacanth,two days'journey (forty-six miles) fromthis, but wererepulse(lby the Dummanees, in whose(listrict the townis, withthe loss of fortykilled and one hun(lredwounde(l, mostof whoulhave lJeen broughtto me for atten(lance,the Dummanees losing but four men, and having sisty wounded,manyof whomalso are here. Sheik Beyrockis almost the only person whose people are not involvedin this quarrel He is the greatarbiterand the mostpowerful of them all. They have all sent (leputations to him, whichhas aXor(led me an opportunity of seeing portions of mostof the tribes. My ?ositionis for from envialule;the jealousyan(lanzour propre of these people is beyondall belief. I am chargedwith favouring one whoselarge armrequirestwo splintsto support the fracture(l bone,or looking(lownuponanother as puny, because I give hiIn b,;lt two pills, whilst others less daringthan himself take three. I have,hos-ever, managel to keep prettygood flien(lsss-ith all of them. This place offersloutlittle of intereston +shich to address yourRo>alHighness. I hope I shallle enabledduringmy stay to correctsome triflinggeographical errors, particularly as to the course of two rivers passing through this district. an(l the Mvad Dralla,* which finds itS \Vay to the sea. I have, hovexrer, the satisfaction of informingyour RoJal I4ighnessthat I havepositis-ely arrangetl my(leparture, 1ln(ler a heavy forfeiture anddisgrace for non-compliance on the partof the Dummanees, for the Glst of JumadAwwal, our 1st of Seltember, to halt three daysat Tajacanth, an(lto perform the journeyto Timbuctoo withinforty days: forthis,however, I have to payveryheavily. The arrangement has leen madesince I commerlced this letter, which I halre the honour of addressing to your Roral Highness,discussing the matter two (lays; since +1\Then many of the chiefs of the tribes were here, by express oreler of Sheik Beyrock. I tol(l them at oncethat I wantellto go to Soudan; they knewit, and ha(l been
* Oal'ah, pronouncedl)r'ah.

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of thelateMr.Davidson. Correspondence

and Ali, sent for the purpose; that the two Sheiks,Mohammed of the Dummanees,were to take me, and that I had already given Sheik Beyrockwhathe askedto ensuremy safety,and now wanted to know what they would requirefor their camels and that I said at once escort; the sum demandedwas so exorl)itant I wouldgive the matterup, go backto Fez, and requestthe Sultan to send me on. Upon this the Deleim*said,; You don'tgo hundreddollarsto pass my district.' ltackwithoutgiving me fi+<-e The Abousebah,ta day's journeyto the northof him, said, ' If the Deleim gets this, so will I.' I appealedto the Sheik,who as I was. Seeingthis, one of the said he was as muchastonished we are all party,who was the constantreferee, said,; Christian, pledged to protectyourperson: no one will harma hair of your llea(l; stop where you like; your person is safe; we all know your name Ben Daouel.l We have promised this to Sheik Beyrock. One from each tribe will be witll you, lout pay you shall. We sai(lnothing about your money; all we were aske(l was to protect your person, to swear none should harm you. Depend uponus; we keep our word,but go 7hich way you will, it in his hands: you shall pay.' The Sheik beggedme to leas-e a greatexpenseuponme, an(lhastol(lme, he has drawn he admits to write to the vice-consulat Mogador, underthe circumstances, whoknows all these people, [in orderto] get him to saywhat I position, oughtto give, and he will makeup the rest. Seeingmyone half the amount the sibyl'sbooks,I offiered and recollecting thelasthourhasbeen whichwithin askedto take me to Timbuctoo, accepted,and we have eaten sornesalt since. ( I finelhere still the Jews. The same precise accountof in the valleysof Atlas. theiralrivalanfltakint,up their residence the One is here from Jerusaleml)eggingalms,unusualamongst in years,qllite blind, and has kept conJews. He is advanced of my escortsfrom Tangier stantpace with me, takint aclvantage to this place: is arlsiousto get. to Arowan,?where there is a very learned Rabbi. I cannot help him; my means will not allowme. They asknearlyas muchfor his passage as my own; having a greater fear o? the Jews getting to Soudanthan the Christians. I trust by this time your Royal Highness llas recovered yourperfectsit,ht, hopingthat al)outthe period of this England,yourRoyal Highnesswill havereceive(l letter'sreaching from the tombs of the district of the copies of the inscriptions Mesfywa. I can hardly expect the copy of the record from Coubaor Kobbawill reachMoroccotill the end of the autumn, when the Rabbi told me he should be returning,and would to whom deliser it to the ConsularAgent, the Jew Courkoss,
* Delim, orthe dimillutive,Duleim. , Ibn orBin I)Sud, David'sSon.
+

Abu-s-seba,i.c.Father Lioll. ? A'ra-wan.

Correspondence of thelateMr.Da;vidson.

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I haveseveraltimes written. My companion begs mostrespectfully to presenthis duty, and hopes your Royal Highness will deignto receivethe few lines fromhis pen, which he begs me to enclose. I am sorryto say I havegreat fears for his healthi he cannot l)ear fatigue, and has been attacked with ophthalmia. The whole of the Soudan pea.ple knowhim,,and tell me he will prove a certainpassport;that he is a cousinof Hamed Libboo; and another of his cousins, Ali, called Koutouk,the warrior,is nowking o? Kong, and that many of his familyare at Kong,all rich andirlpower. ' Hoping this will find your Royal Highness in the enjoyment of perfecthealth, and trustingshortlyto havethe honourof addressing your RoyalHighnessfromSondan, " I havethe honour to be, &c. &c. (' JOHNDAVIDSO?z. In the territoryof Wad Nun the travellers patiencewas severelyput to the test. He was detainedthere from April till November. From Glamiz he wrote to his brother,on the 2Sth September,as follows:';Sincemy lastletter, I have made three ineffectualattempts at getting on, althoughI now begin to feel somewhat confident that SheikBeyrockfwithwhomI still am, neverintendedsending me till the en(l of this month, he being so fully pledged fc)rmy safety and due arrival that fearingthe heat and the unsettled, nay warring stateof the tribes,did not chooseto run these doulule additional risks. On the 2Sth of this month there is, by matual conserlt,a general cessation of hostilities,to enable the trilaes to attendthe greatSocco* of E1 Shig, held at ten hours ride from ;hlsplace, and at whichthe Arabsdisposeof the produceof their flocks an(l tentst an(l lay in theirprovisions for the wholeyear. The armisticelasts for six days, to give time for going andretllrning,the marketoccurring on the 28th and 29th. Of this it is intendedI shouldtake advantage, andas my people do not purchase anything,but merelycome as a cloakand take me off;we shall get threefull days'start,and be nearlyout of the reach of darlger. I am now goirlgon in a rery different style fromthat mentioned in my last, partlyby tauntingthe Tajacanthsas loeing cow-ards, and moreperhapsby holding out to them the richharXest they maygain by havingthe whole market for salt) purchased at Tou(leyny, whichsupplies Soudan,to themselves. Paying,as I am, an enormous sum to go on, and advancing moneyfor the purchaseof salt, to be repaidon arrival at Timbuctoo, or in the event of accident, to be returned to Sheik Beyrock, who is to replaceit in the handsof the V;ce-Consul at Mogador, I nowtake the whole

* Sokor sfik, i, e. marlet or fair.

\'OL. VII.
M

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of thelateMr.Davtdson. Correspondence

Ofthisportionof the Tajacanths,to the numberof two hundred is as follows:hundredcamels. Our arrangement xnenand si2z On the 25th, when the Sheikswithtwo hundredcamelsand sisty men start,as if to visit the Socco, two hundredcamelswith corn and waterwill proceeddirectto the Sahara; thirtycamelswill be the two Sheiks,andcomehere detachedfromthose accolnpanying for my baggage,whichby this, you will say, is no trifle, the presents I am obliged to carry and the money (the cowries),ten camel loads of which does not amountto one hundredpounds at the Socco, themselves sterling,beingall bulky. After shosving join me on the road;we shallproceedto the tents,where they we shall arriveon the 28th. A second two hundredcamelswith sixty mensvillproceedimmediately.We remaintwo daysto pack the food eaten on the road, and up our tents and grindzimeta,* nothingwith us but my baggage,whichwill now be dicarrying vi(ledbetweenfiftyand sixtycamels, andmakeall speed to overlessen the take the two formerdivisions. We shall materially drink and food to our ownbeasts, anal load of the first,by gis-ing loading thosesho for three or fourdays have carriednothing; makingno stop, with and in this way push orlto the first (livision, but veryshortnights,till we arriveat Toudeyny; there all will be loadedwithsalt, andthis will requirefrom eight to ten days. I to find Hamed Libboo'snephewthere, antlwho hope, howe+7er, no sooner hearsthere will be no regular Cafila this year than poorAbou, the news. I shalljoin him, provided he will be ofRwith aboutwhomI have greatfears,as you shall hear presently,can bear the journey. All are in great spirits,the people here beso much on my last trip, fromwhich lievingthat I have suffered the idea of going ago, that I haveabandoned fourdaAs I returned on, and am now only waitingtill I see E1 Shig, and go backto Fez. This is all verygood,and I keep up this story: 'tis a very in one for me, as I cannot makethe least preparation unsavoury days'har(ltravelling, the way of foodfor thejourney,andforty-Sve and barley and dates ground up togetherand mixedwith milk or water, is but poor food. Meat is given but twice at Toudeynyand Arowan,at bothwhichplacesthe Cafilasrest. I have had a task of ten days'hardworkon dry bread,and that not the sweetest at the end of the time, and one piece of fish, but am betterin healthfor it, but not muchfattenedby it. My two first or amuseinent; excursionswere productiveof little information not so my last, whichwas replete witll incident,and agordedme fromthisplace, accomWe started bothpleasureandinformation. panie(lby the Sheik, and abouta dozenfriends an(l house-slaves, that we couldhavereachedthe tents of the un(lerthe impression
will

a kindof pastemadevf millet(dhurlah). ox zumeitah, * Ziwe-itah

of thetateMs.Davtdsn. Correspondenee

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to which,if we got, my thingswere to havebeenimTajacanths, us of the impossiforwarded. The first day convinced mediately we bilityof this, and not wishingto appearfoi]edor disappointed, as faras a beautifulcountry passing to theriverDraha,* proceeded water,and came to the sea but whollywithoutdrinkable scenery, wherethis river empties itself. I had not for some weeks past eaten any of the food cookedin the Sheik'shouse, but had been living on some stuS furnishedby the Jews residinghere: they received orders to prepare a bag of bread for the Christians tea and sugar; after a the Sheik carrying with whichwe starte(l, ride of eight hours, we halted at a very powerful spring of ^rater,but so salt, that neither the Sheik's horse nor mine here, horses are neither would drink, and by a sort of 1aMT allowed foodnorwater for twelve hours beforethey commence a journey: four smallloaveswere dividedamongthe party, alld one. those who like(l tooka small draught, not an effervescent a fine chair We remainedhalf an hour,an(l proceede(l,crossing of hills, startingmanyherdsof gazelles, and after two hoursarwherewe slept. Tea was made,but ris-elat a large encamplnent, andthe boilinghadfar fromimof the samewaterwe ha(lpassed, fordinnerwastoodisgusting, provedits saltrless.The preparation alatlI will spareit you. We startedthe followingdaybeforedarI)reak: the heat being excessive,we were obliged to cover the stirru?s,&c. with our haiks.t At one P.M., goirlgS.E., the thermometerwas 140?-112? in our tents at night. Reached the wells, and foundmuchcattle, loutwatersalt. Here we got lenty milk. Ro(letill sis; halted,analkilledtwo largewolves f carnelsv of Ab the mountains an(l manysnakes. OS early, and crossecI we found Bahra, one of Sheik el Assel, at the foot of urhich with 1000 camels. Here I saw much of Beyrock'ssons-in-law, Arab life the settlementof points of law, marriages,and diw-orces.Here the story-tellerand the bard divided the night an(lsung the praises betweenthem. Tlle wild Arab girl (lanced ill his had a ditty composed of the Sheik,andthe poor Christian favour. Next day we turnedtowardsthe sea; killed somewild taking boars: at tlle sea, got solnefish;-an(l turned homewards, route; but no waterexcept salt. I was tendayson this a elifferent on an average,ten hours a day. .Before journey,an(l travellell, this reachesyou I shall be on my wayto Timlouctoo. An express will le sent on my arrival. " Faithfullyyours, 10)AVIDSON. (; JOHN Lord On the Gn(l day of November, he says, in a(ldressing
Palmel ston,-

* Dar'ah.

wrappel. t Hayik, i. e. hite WOOlleIl

+ Abu-l'asel, i, e. Father Honey.

164

of thelateMr.Davtdson. Correspondence

I havevisitedSheik Beyrocl. " Sincemy letter to yourlordship thereis no suchriveras the guide; in(lifferent an map is but The to this place: betsveen near it is the Assaka, running Akassa; laid down at all, the not rivers, other two and Glamiz ale this Sheik Beyrock which and Syad. The point at Boukoukluar (irom E1 Draha river the of mouth to formhis portis the wishes S.W. miles 30 is reckoning, my to according which, Draha),* Wad ma the on marked place Cape Noon, and shouldoccupythe Of Akassa. his means, loutnot " I fear Slleik BeyrocLhas far overstated muchmay confident am I of the country. all the capabilities at but he people; these with view, of point done, in a commercial lte heavy water, a better port than the Wad Draha-shallow muchjudgwants shown however, has, he and manysand-banks: surf, in the selectionof his position. ment runsthrough " Tlle Wad Draha,risinga little S.W. of Tafilelt, near to passing Harib,t E1 and Draha of districts productive the sea the to tvay its Tattaand Akka, skirtinglower Suse, finds tribes of Errub, the by possessed the fertile country through Tajacanth,and Ergebat These people can Draha,Marail)at, of produce,and could, accordingto their large quantities furnish could they purchasegoodson ownaccount,le great consumers, terms. These people has-ein their hands the reasonable more gllm, ivory, an(l largestportion of the Soudan trade in gold, and skins,an(l wool of quantities large rear feathers; they ostrich of oil, wax, quantities inthe districtsN. and E. of this,immense hides,and almonds." inVVillshire On the 11th of that month, Mr. Vice-Consul on that Society Geographical of the Royal the Secretary formed he courage high and patience whose at tlle 3rd Mr. Davidson, of prospect the at wrote in spirits expresseshis astonishment, vexannoyances, many so leavinga place where he had suffiered an(l disappointments-:ations, for the Cafila, which " ' Even now,' he adcls, ' afterwaiting say, 2000 camels, I am

they will be immense, near 400 men, anKl, all accounts, as a Christian by shoukl, I it. with going not even I go straight from this to death. to and a doctor, be worried we shall not see Arowan, never touchinC the Cafila route at all; to two or three only known wells, a single tent. There are some for milk, the of the guides. We take five nat,gas (she camels)(barley meal). simeta some five men, and Mohammed E1 Alod, a skin of water, I take the l)iscuit for Alaou and self; each carries to laring us to days thirty to be touched only if the milk fails: Arowan, and fiv-emoreto Timbuctoo.'
+

E1'ArIb. by the Berbers pronourced E1G1+sib,

* E1 Wad Dar'ah, the Vale of Dar'ah.

of thelateMr.Datidson. Cortespondence

165

to assureyou that the arrangeextract madethe aboxre " I haare to startat a molllent's rea(ly lnentswere matle,an(l Mr. Davidson or three days I hope to have notice,an(lthat in the courseof tw(3 the pleasure to acquaintyou of his having proceecledon his jollrncy. Once awayfromWadnoon,antl I has-eeveryand tlle with success. of his eSortsloeingcro^rne(l fullest confidence " I havethe honourto le, Sir, servant, " Yourmost obeclient IRE. . WII LSl-I " XVM I havereceiveda letter fronz " I'.S. I open this letter to a(1e1, Saturelay,the 5th inst., who appearsin WIr.Davi(lson,<:latetl llit,hsl)irits,and writes,not go on that " ' The startis to lJeon Monday,althoughI (:lo elay; everythingis now packed up, and placed readyto be put on A1onday. on the camels,with whichAl)ou starts at day-lJreak El I am to be left llere, as if llaving sent him on. Mohammed or Thursday,accordinb AT)(lremainsbehind. On We(lnes(lay made l)y the canzelson the first (lay,we starton to the distance and altout sis horsemen, lJy Preyrock, accompanie(l llorseloack, all(lare to makeYeisst,if possil)le,irlone day. Here I leavethe journeyfor (listrictof Wadnoon. And to thisplace is three(lays' loa(ledcamels. I here leave my horseand mountmy camel,antl we pushon to the tents.' inst.,as did not starton a sudden,on the 3rt1 " Mr. Daxi(lson broughtme a letter fromhim of xYho state(lto me by a courier, that date, and which I reportedin a letter I had the llonourto of State,ViscountPalmerston, Secretary addressto his Majesty's and on the 8th inst., an(lwhichyou will oblige me by correcting knownto his lordship. rlaking "Yourmostobedientservant,
" W. W."

letterswill giveall fiom Mr. Willshire's Tlle followingextracts the sequel of Mr. Davidson's respecting the intelligencel^eceiveel expeeltlon:13thDec. 1836. "Mogadwore, the " S;r,-I hadthe pleasureonthe 28thultimoof announcing on his route to Timof Mr. DavidsonfromWadnoon, det)arture you,I havesincehad the satisfaction an(l I leg to acqllaint louctoo, to receive a letter from him, datetl Yeisst, lS-lGth ult., from whencehe writesto me, ; All is at length settled, an(lwe start at first-day. I be]ievealso tlle Cafilawill be morning to-morrow allowe(lto proceed,althoughone mltcal a-head is to lbepai(lby here abovefiftypersons,and one hundre(l all who pass: we has-e camels. I am unableto tell you for certainthe routeT take; this is to depend upon circumstances. But two persons besides us; so that after all the talli of El Abd accompany Mohammed
. .

166

Correspondce of thelafeMr.Davidson.

Wadnoon, I am goingin my originalway,of a partyof only five, includingAbouand self.' " Yeisstis threedays'journey south of Wadnoon, fromTemzirst, (whichplace Mr. Davidson describesas a beautifulride of eight hours,andspeaks in high termsof the attentionsand civilitiesof Sheik Hammo,who, with a partyof twentyhorse,accompanied him from Temzirstto Yeisst.) Mr. Davi(lsonremarks,-'Every step we have takenfromWadnoonwe have found the people better, more liberal, more hospitable,and although somewhat savage,havingyet a little mildness of character, of whichthereis none at Wadnooll.' " At the date of the latest letters received fromSheik Beytock, Mr. Dasidsonha(l been gone fromYeisst eighteen days, withouttherebeing anyintelligence of him, whicharguesfavourably for his safety; the greatestdangerbeing uponthe bordersof the Desert, wherethereare manywandering andwarliketribes. " I havereasonto believeMr. DaxTidson and partyhavepushed on as fast as possible: the journeywas to be done in a veryshort time, as the camelswere onlyto drinksis times; andby not visiting the tents of the Tajacanths, nearlysig days'journeywouldbe saved." " Mr. Dasidson, in the concluding paragraph of hisletter,writes ' J am happyto say I havepickedup amazingly, and havenow no fears about my health; and I beg to assure you I flatter myself with the hope, that the intrepidtravellermay pass a merry new-year's day at the famed city of Timbuctoo which event I trustto havethe high pleasureof announcirlg to you in aboutthree months,Sheik Mohammed E1Abd havingpromised to be the bearerof a letter,whichhe is to (leliverfor me, andsay, There is a letter from Yahya BenDaoud;8 the Tajacanths have kept their word.' Go(l grant he may, is the heartyand sincereprayerof, Sir, yourmostobe(lientServant, " WM.AiVILLsHIRE. " To Capt. Maconochie, R.N." Translation of a letter fromSheik :Beyrock, dated Wadnoon, 1st day of the monthDual Caadat (answering to the 7th inst.), receivedat Mogadore, 13th February,1837. " To our friend, Merchant Willshire, English Vice-Consul, Salam,i:&c. " We recei+red yourletter by the courier,whichwe have read and un(lerstand. Aboutthe news of the Tibbibf John Davidson, his deathis certain the Haril)met him death is the lot of all. We had arranged withall the tribesof Arabswho are knownto
+

* Yahya ibn David, John the son of David. t Dhu-; Ka'dah, the 11th Mohammedan month. Salam,salutatioll. ? Tebib, physician.

Correspondence of thelateMr.Dandson.

167

plunderpersonsand commitrobberieson the road; we had ensuredhis safetywith them. The Tibbib did not leave our house until we had previously receivedsecurityfrom Eborria(of the tribeof Idowlet),that he might pass throughhis districtof E1 Harib; we had no fear, lvecause they are traders,and convey and pass the merchants of Tafilelt, and receivehire. E1 Harib did not go thatroutebut to kill him (the Tibbib), andwe haveheard that the merchants of Tafilelt ha(l given moneyto E1 Harib to murderhim. Tafilelt is only distant one or two days'journey fromthe usual place of abo(leof the tribe of E1 Haril. As to the propertyof the Tibbib, nothing has found its way to this quarter; loutshouldit, I will sendit to you. His property will get to Tafilelt,whereit will lte sol(l,andyou had better writeto the SultaniUulaiAbderrahman, to give ordersto his Vice-Roy to seekafterhis books,writlngs, andproperty. " We inform you we have sent a friend to the Tajacanths, orderinga person to be despatche(lto Timbuctoo,to loring us Abou, who is gone there; andhavegiventhe strictestordersfor everyinformation and news how it happened,to be sentus. " As to the envy,like thatof Wold Isheme*and otherslre have hear(lof, you knowletter thanany one what moneythe Tibbib had. The truthof all the news will be known, when the llorsemen returnfromthe Tajacanths. We will send it to you, and pointout to you the spot or placewherehe (the Tibltib)wasmet, and the day he was murdered. His deathwouldbe first known at Tafilelt, fromwhence it would reachFas, as manyof the E1 Haril)go to that city. We are far oS, whichis the causeof the intelligencebeing so long before it reachedolS. The statie n of the Tajacanthsis twelve days'journeyfromthis place, and it is threemonthsthatno one has cometo us fromthence, exceptthis news, which came from Yeisst. The money which he (the Tibbib)lent to Mohammed E1 Abd lllake yourselfeasyaboutit: the day the caravan returns,we will get repaid,and remitit to you. Inshalla ff Salam." Translation of a letter from Sheik Beyrock,dated Wadnoon, 1st day of Dual Caa(la (answering the 7th inst.), received at Mogadore, 13th February, 1837. " To Sidi Hadge Abibe, Salam, &c. " As to what you writeabout the Tibbib John Davidson, the partyof the Haril)found(or met) himand killed him, plundering all his property, and thatof Mohammed E1 Abd,? whichhe had
t +

To Sidi Haj Habib; Salam: To my Lord, the Pilgrim- Habib (or the beloved Pilgrim); Salutation. ? Mohammed el 'Abd. Mahomet the Slaveor Servant [of God]

* Aulad Hishim, children of Hisham, a large Arab tribe. In sha-Uah, " If it please God !"

the Tibbibthey clothsand hamburgas. On the day seizedhis companion they killecl the most solemn oath,if he did not Abou, and sworeto himlvy show lJelonging and tell of the to the Christian, property they hediscovered take his life, upon and told them of Tvoul(l which wentaway with; and everything, the reason why I whichthey tookan(l before did not *vriteto you now, I had " How comesitdoubtsof the truth. that you who writesto the Jew his listen to the wordsof Wold Isheme, friend, and tells him deposited with us the suln you the Tibloibhad you mention in your letter? not answer Willshireon the point,as why dil lelivered you saw the money overto Mohammed he E1 Abd ? God be known not to l;)e praised,we are traitors, like Wold Isheme: panion Abou comes, he will if his comrelate all the how-ever, mouth. llews with his own " Be informed we havewrittento Sidi the headsof the MohammedDumanee, Tajacanths Sidi Mohammed Hamed Ben Annish, arl(l Moolud,*to send persons his like companionAbou, from themselves to bring to us events, if lle lJealive,you whereverhe can be found; at will see him,Inshalla, all will be done. andif dead,GodSs ';The wordsyou report,thatwe hazl to betray him (the Tibbib), arranged withthe Harib could we degradeourselves such doings are not our ways, to nor do so; everyone God with for the wordshe will reckon uttels. " For fourdays we all that is sacredto be neitherate nor drank,and havesworn by found, in theirtents orrevenged. Whenever the Haril)are to be on the road, kill our them. tribe shall plunder and " As regardsthe propert-of the in the of the Tibbih,if anyarticles hands remain Tajacanths, they will reachyou. how much we havegrieved God knows about him,but God be not leave anything praised, we undone for the not safety of the Tibbib. We di(l think the Haril)would turn traitors This to has any personsent by did been doneby the us traders of Harib to kill him. Godis Tafilelt, will be done: the who ha(lbribedthe when thetwo horsemen facts will be known return,whomwe have Tajacanth, andwhichwill despatched to the be sent to you. Peace." " " Mogadore,14th February, Sir, I had the 1837. melancholyduty on the 1st you acquainted with instantto make the distressing me intelligence regarding Mr. Davidson. I am whichhadreached that grievedat heartto inform the all accourlts I havereceived you sirlceconfirm tidings. the melancholy
* Ah'med Moulfid.

168 himof long with

Correspondence of {helateMr. Davidson.

of thelateMr.Davidson. Correspondence

169

account I have heard, I derived " The most circumstantial froma Sew traderof the nameof Jacol)Ben Cohen,who arrived to me that Mr. here fromDrahaon the 2nd instant,and reported (thirtyof Shaban* on the 29th or aOth Davidson hadbeen roblJetl two or thirty-three(lays after Mr. DavidsonstartedfromWaelnoon),by the tribesof Ido^rletand Ait Atta, in the districtof from journeyfromTatta, who, afterreceiving Hameda,fourelays' AIr.Davidsoneight doubloonsand one hundred(lollars,an(la of eighteenpersons,to loaeled camel,allowe(lthe palty, consisting Timbuctoo; WoldHamdanTand proceedon theirroutetowards Aboo, of the Eborria, of Idoxvlet,an(l Wold Henna and XVold as the nainesof the robbers.My tribeof Ait Atta,S he mentioned party informant stated,that, eight or ten daysafter,a lnarauding of 100 horsemenof the tribe of E1 lilaril, +ho werereturning met Mr. Dalridson's fromplunderinga place called Bousbeyall,? party a little to the south of Egue(la, whom they immediatelv robbed,and sllot Mr. Davidson,who receivel eight balls, anzl theirmuskets at his body as a xX-hen dea(l,everyone discharged a torn distantsix daysfrom nzeritorious act. At El Mehamdee,ll of wasliving,he sawin the possession Tatta,1T wheremyinformant ha(lbelongedto Mr. the Arabs an(l Jers variousarticleswhicl-l I)avidson,whish he describe(l,and left no doubton my mindas to his fate. Among the articleswhichlle had seen, he name(la s+^70rd, three books, a box of silver watch, a pocket-compass, beads,and cowries,all of whichlle medicines,Japantea-caddy, or he couldnot have describe(lthem so correctly musthave seen, coultlnot give a certainaccountof the as he did. My informant but underof Mr. Davidson, fate of pOOl' Abou, the companion stood he had gone on with the caraxan,in which he is partly fromSheik Beyrockyesterday. lJorne out ly the letterreceis-ed state NIr.Davidsonand partywere travelling " Otheraccounts somedistance in a parallel route, but ratherbehin(lthe caravan, disapwhichwas firstmet by the party of E1 Harib,who vvere theytn2?1i?'ed. The Davidson,for whom pointe(lnot to find MEr. Mr. Davidsoncame up, and afterwar(:ls caravanwas s$oppe(1; me to believe shot. Anotherreportinclirles whenhe was instantly seized an the Harib at first appeare(lfrielldly, an(l afterwards him at a place called Sheh' to mur(ler oppoltunity treacherously
* Sha'ban,the eighth month, A.H. 1252, 29 Sha'ban= 8 December,1836. t Wold or Aulad Ham(lan, an Arab tribe. + Alt-Ata. (a place) telollgine to the tribe of AbG Seba. M. D'Avezac ? Bti SeSbS-iyah writes Buzebatrat,following probablyIbnu-dden: an unsafe guide. il E1 Mohammedi,the Mahometan. s The situation of Tata h;3s been determilled with great probabilityby M. D'Avezac, in his Etudes de Geographie sur l'Afrique Septentrionale. See also btulletin ele la Soci6t6 de Giographie, vii. 112.

170

Correspandence of the late Mr. Davidson.

Keya,*twenty days'journeyfromWadnoon,and about twentyseven days'distant fromTimbuctoo. " I havebeen muchdisappointed that the information received by the returnof the courierI despatched to Wadnoon withletters to Sheik Beyrockis verymeagrean(linconclusive. In his letters no allusionis madeto the roblSery and murderof Mr. Davidson, as havingoccurred at different places,noris the account of Jacob Ben Cohensupported in this point by any of the reportswhich have cometo my knovv-ledge, exceptthe one receivedby my Rgent fromhis son at Morocco, whichstatesthat Mr. Davidson hadbeen rol)bed,and afterwards allowedto proceedon hisjourney. I have no reasonto suspect treacheryon the part of Sheik Beyrocxk, although the reportsset afloat by WoldIsheme are intendedto create such a suspicion. The falsity of the report that Mr. Davidsonhad depositeda large sum of money withthe Sheik, is
evident.

" Considering tllere was a greatprobability Abou mighthave loeentakenby the trilJeof E1 Harib, and (letained as a slave, I directedthe Sheikto procu his release, andto send him to me. By the answerhe has returE;2d, he appearsto believethat Abou ha(l gone on withthe cara+ran, in whichcase there is not much likelihoodof the horsemendespatchedfromthe station of the Tajacanths overtaking it. " I beg to acquaint you I have not yet determined uponwhat steI3sto take to collectfurtherinformation, havingonly yesterday received the letters from Sheik Beyrock. It is my wish to despatch a Moor to proceed to I)raha, to recover if possible es-erything belongint, to Mr. Davidson: the great difficultyis to select a person well acquaintedwith the countr, and in whom every confidence can be place(l. I attach consideral)le vallle to the notes Mr. Davids(2n ma- havemadeon the routefrom7adnoonup to the momenthe met his untimelyfate. I havein view a Moorishtraderwho has travelle(lin many partsof the I)esert, and if I ean eome to an arrangement ^rith him, I shall despateh him to Draha,with directions to proeeed to the very spot; and everything I ean do towards elucidatingthis melaneholy afEair, be assured,will be done. I mournfor my friend. ;; I remain,&e. (Signed) " W. WILLSHIRE. " P.S. --Ihaveomittedto state,that by the report of Jaeob Ben Cohen, Mr. Davidsonmet his fate on the 8th day of Ramadan, answeringto the 17th or 18th of Deeember last. Sheh
* AfterwardsSwekeya, which is prohablymore correct. Ramadan,the MohammedanLent, is the llinth month; 1836,17th December. 1252, 8 Ramadan

t -A.D.

A.H.

171 Keya,nearthe southern confinesof the districtof Eguedee,$ sixteen daysfromTatta, and ten daysfromToudeyny. " E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq."
" Mogadore, lGlarch 7, 1837.

Contrespondence of {helafeMr.Davidson.

" The answer I have been looking so many days for from Sheik Beyrock,in reply to a lont letter I wrote to him, only reachedme tllis morning. In it he givesrathera diSerentversion fromformerreports. At Egueclee, on the 18th (layof Rama(lan, Mr. Davidson,and a partyof Tajacanths, twelvein number, w-ere at a watering-place, when a partyof seventeen of the tribeof E1 Harib cameup. It is stateel, moreas a surmise, thancon certain information, that some of Mr. Davidson'sparty havint,gone to zlrink,leavingtheir musketslehind, some of the Harib cut off the arty thus divi(led,when two of them immecliately shot Mr. Davidson,and plun(lered the camels, tearing anclclestroying all his booksandpapers. The Tajacanths, whowere plunderecl) and afterwards, with Abou, allowedto procee(lon theirjourney,and are gone on to Timbuctoo, do not appearto haveoXere(l any resistance. The Sheikrecallsthe asseltionmadein a former letter, that the traclers of Tafilelt had bribed the Haril)to waylayand murderMr. Davidson. {Signed) " WM.WILLSHIRE. " E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq." " Moyadone, lRlarch14, 1837. " Sir,-- A traderof Wa(lnoon,namedSi(li Ali VVoi(l Ifkee, with whom Mr. I)avi(lsonwas on intimateterms during his stayat that place, arrived two (laysfromthenceyesterday, called and gave me the follo+ving relationof the melancholy fate of that gentleman, whichI believecan be clepen(led upon,andis (leserv ing of morecreditthananyother. The substance is as follows:" Mr. I)avidsonand party*^rere Srst lnet by someof the triles of IlowlJet an(l Ait Atta, who took from him some molley, and allowe(l the arty to proceeel. The party reache(l Swekeya,t where they reste(l to svaitfor the cara+an to comeup. On the third day, a partyof fifteen, or more, of the tribe of E1 Harib arrivedat the resting-place,and after the usual salutations, inqwredof Mohamme(l E1 Abd who he was travelling with? when he replied, a shereef, svhvwas going to Gualata on business. After somelittle conversation, the head of the partyof E1 Harib requestedMohamme(l E1 Ab(l to show him tlle watering-place, who, leavinghis musketbehin(l,an(lthe rest of the Harib sitttny down, accompanied himoverthe sand-hills, andwhen out of sight, hearing a reportof a musket,Mohamme(l E1 Ab(l askedwhathad been done,when the Harib replie(l,his partyhadshotthe Chris* I'gidi. Marmol.iii. 19.
+ + Before Shsehkeya.

Walatah of the Arabs,Ai welaten (A;t Walatah ?) of Ibn Batutah.