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New York

DIRECTIONS

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Martin Dunford
WITH ADDITIONAL RESEARCH BY

Adrien Glover

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI


www.roughguides.com
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Contents
The Lower East Side ........................97
Introduction 4

CONTENTS
The East Village..............................103
Greenwich Village ..........................112
Chelsea and the Garment District ..121
Ideas 9 Union Square, Gramercy Park,
and Murray Hill ..........................128
The big six sights ............................10
Times Square and the
Quintessential New York
Theater District ..........................135
restaurants....................................12
Midtown East ................................144
Green New York................................14
Central Park ..................................155
Ethnic New York ..............................16
The Upper East Side ......................161
Museums and galleries ....................18
The Upper West Side......................171
Shopping streets ..............................20
Harlem and above ..........................180
Cafés and tearooms ........................22
The Outer Boroughs ......................186
Skyscrapers ....................................24
Gourmet food ..................................26
Clubs and music venues ..................28
Twenty-four-hour New York ..............30
Accommodation 199
Grand hotels ....................................32 Hotels ............................................201
City views ........................................34 Hostels and YMCAs ........................209
Gay New York ..................................36 B&Bs and serviced apartments ......210
Classic bars ....................................38
Reasons to leave the island..............40
Kids’ New York ................................42 Essentials 213
New York food ..................................44
Film and TV locations ......................46 Arrival ............................................215
Literary landmarks ..........................48 Information ....................................216
Gourmet restaurants ........................50 City transportation..........................217
Churches and synagogues ..............52 City tours ......................................218
New York on the cheap ....................54 Money............................................219
Concert halls ....................................56 Phones, mail, and email ................219
Shopping..........................................58 Festivals and holidays ....................220
Breakfast and brunch spots..............60 Directory ......................................221
Parades and annual events ..............62
Index 223
Places 65
Battery Park and the
Harbor Islands ..............................67
Colour Maps
The Financial District........................70 Manhattan
City Hall Park and TriBeCa ................79 MTA New York City Subway
Chinatown and Little Italy ................85 Midtown Manhattan
SoHo ................................................91 Downtown Manhattan
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Introduction to

New York
INTRODUCTION

The most enthralling city in


the world, New York holds
immense romantic appeal for
visitors.There’s no place quite
like it: it’s historic, yet its
buildings and monuments are icons of the modern
age; the dizzy maelstrom of its streets and
neighborhoods is famously – and fantastically –
relentless, but it has some of the most peaceful urban
green spaces in the world.Whether you’re gazing at
the flickering lights of lower Manhattan’s skyscrapers
from the Brooklyn Bridge, experiencing the 4am half-
life of SoHo or the East Village, or just wasting the
morning on the Staten Island ferry, you really would
have to be made of stone not to be moved by it all.

When to visit
Pretty much any time is a good time to visit New York. Winters here can be
bitingly cold, but the city can be delightful in November and
December during the run-up to Christmas, when the trees
are lit up with fairy lights and shops stay open extra-late.
The weather is at its coldest in January and February,
but there can be great flight bargains at this time of
year, and in any case New York has some wonderful
crisp and clear sunny days even then. Spring, early
summer, and fall are perhaps the most appealing times
to visit, when temperatures can be comfortably warm.
July and August are the only months you may truly want to avoid: the tem-
peratures tend be sweltering and the humidity worse, while flights are
expensive and everyone tends to leave town for more comfortable climes if
they can.

Contents Introduction
5
쒀 New

city is rife
with vibrant
York firehouse

ethnic neigh-

INTRODUCTION
borhoods, like
Chinatown
and Harlem,
and boasts the
artsy enclaves
of SoHo,
TriBeCa, and
Greenwich
Village. Of
course, you
will find the
celebrated
architecture
of corporate
Manhattan as
well as the
city’s
renowned
museums –
not just the
Metropolitan
You could spend weeks in Museum of Art or the
New York and still barely Museum of Modern Art,
scratch the surface, but but countless smaller col-
there are some key attrac- lections that afford weeks
tions and pleasures you of happy wandering. In
won’t want to miss.The between sights, you can eat
쒀 Subway
entrance

Contents Introduction
6

쑽 The
city it’s here
that you’ll

Bronx Zoo
spend most
INTRODUCTION

time and, unless


you have friends
elsewhere,
where you are
likely to stay.
Understanding
the intricacies
just about anything, of Manhattan’s layout in
cooked in any style; you particular, and above all
can drink in virtually any getting some grasp on its
company; and attend any subway and bus systems,
number of obscure movies. should be your first priori-
The more established arts ty. Note, however, that
– dance, theater, and music New York is very much a
– are superbly catered for; city of neighborhoods, and
and New York’s clubs are one that is best explored
as varied and exciting and on foot – bring sturdy
you might expect. And, for shoes; you’re going to be
the avid consumer, the doing a lot of walking.
choice of shops is vast,
almost numb-
쑽 The

ingly exhaus-
tive in this
American Museum of Natural History

heartland of
the great capi-
talist dream.
New York City
comprises the
central island
of Manhattan
along with
four outer bor-
oughs –
Brooklyn,
Queens, the
Bronx, and
Staten Island.
To many,
Manhattan is
New York, and
whatever your
interest in the

Contents Introduction
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 NEW YORK AT A GLANCE

INTRODUCTION
Greenwich Village

Chinatown groceries

Tree-lined streets lined with stately


houses are punctuated by bars,
restaurants, and shops catering to
students and would-be bohemi-
ans – and, of course, tourists.

쑽 TriBeCa
café
Financial District
This area takes in the skyscrapers
and oldest buildings of
Manhattan’s southern tip,
although the most famous aspect
of its skyline, the World Trade
Center, sadly no longer exists.

Chinatown
Manhattan’s most densely populat-
ed ethnic neighborhood, this vibrant
locale is great for Chinese food and
shopping for the truly exotic.
Midtown East
SoHo and TriBeCa Home to some of New York’s
Two of the premier districts for most awe-inspiring architecture as
cafés, galleries and the commer- well as superb museums and the
cial art scene – not to mention city’s most elegant stores aligning
designer shopping. Fifth Avenue.

The New York Public Library, Midtown East

Contents Introduction
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Columbus Circle, the Upper West Side
INTRODUCTION

Central Park arts, the venerable American


A supreme display of nineteenth- Museum of Natural History, and
century landscaping, without bucolic Riverside Park, running
which life in Manhattan would be along the Hudson River.
quite unthinkable.
Harlem
The Upper West Side Stretching north of Central Park,
This mostly residential neighbor- this pre-eminent African-
hood boasts Lincoln Center, New American community boasts a
York’s temple to the performing proud history.

Central Park

Contents Introduction
Ideas

Contents Ideas
10
New York boasts
The big six sights
some of the world’s
most unmissable
sights – some of
which are literally
impossible to miss.
From the islands of
New York Harbor,
to the giant urban
oasis that is Central
Park, to arguably
the two greatest
museums of their
kind in the world,
we’ve listed the ones that
we believe you really can’t
leave town without
experiencing.
The Empire State Building
Once again the tallest skyscraper in a
metropolis known for them, the Empire
State is the king of New York’s celebrated
skyline.
 P.131  MIDTOWN EAST 

The Museum of Modern Art


Reopening in November 2004 after exten-
sive renovations, this is one of the truly
great collections of modern painting and
sculpture on the planet.
 P.147  MIDTOWN EAST 

Contents Ideas
11
The Statue of Liberty
The views of the lower Manhattan skyline,
the trip to the top, everything about a visit
to Lady Liberty makes it the ultimate New
York experience.
 P.68  BATTERY PARK AND THE
HARBOR ISLANDS 

The Metropolitan
Museum of Art
You might spend a week exploring the muse-
um’s vast holdings, or simply focus on its
paintings, ancient artifacts, or applied arts.
 P.161  THE UPPER EAST SIDE 

Ellis Island
A sensitive and moving museum that drives
home the city’s – and the country’s – immi-
grant roots. A great add-on to any visit to
the Statue of Liberty.
 P.69  BATTERY PARK AND
THE HARBOR ISLANDS 

Central Park
The ultimate urban park, this green and fan-
tastically landscaped sanctuary lies at the
heart of the city’s bustle – and couldn’t feel
further away from it.
 P.155  CENTRAL PARK 

Contents Ideas
12
Of the city’s Grand Central Oyster Bar
Quintessential New York restaurants
In the vaulted bowels of Grand Central
thousands of Station, this is one of the most atmos-
restaurants, some pheric oyster bars and fish restaurants in
the world.
of which come and
 P153  MIDTOWN EAST 
go in the blink of an
eye, a few have
become celebrated
institutions – places
to visit as much
now for their
character,
atmosphere, and
clientele as for the
food itself. But the
food that made
them famous in the
first place isn’t
shabby at all:
sample oysters that
taste like they’ve
just been dragged
out of the sea,
towering deli
sandwiches, or the
most mouthwatering
steaks to be found
for miles.

Contents Ideas
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Second Avenue Deli
This classic East Village Jewish deli is
known for its matzoh ball soup and great
burgers.
 P.109  THE EAST VILLAGE 

Katz’s Deli
Peter Luger’s Steak House Probably the most “New York” of the city’s
Manhattanites trek to Williamsburg to the innumerable eateries, Katz’s is celebrated
steakhouse to beat them all, serving hunks for its jaw-achingly huge pastrami sand-
of meat the size of a house. wiches.
 P.196  THE OUTER BOROUGHS   P.101  THE LOWER EAST SIDE 

Contents Ideas
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Beyond the obvious
Green New York
example of Central
Park, such a city
mainstay that we’ve
given it its own
chapter (see p.155),
New York sports a
number of green
spaces. The city’s
sheer size ensures
that there are any
number of fantastic
places to escape to for a
relaxing picnic or just a
break when the concrete
jungle gets to be too much.

New York Botanical Garden


One of the finest botanical gardens in the
country, this merits a trip up to the Bronx
all on its own.
 P.192  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 

Contents Ideas
15
Riverside Park
Landscaped by Vaux and Olmsted, the
architects who designed Central Park,
Riverside Park offers a fine respite from
touring the Upper West Side.
 P.174  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

East Village Community


Gardens
Vacant lots redeemed and beautified by
local residents, these green spaces are
small oases in a vibrant neighborhood. Gramercy Park
 P.106  THE EAST VILLAGE  Although open only to residents, this former
swamp surrounded by stately nineteenth-
century townhouses is one of New York’s
prettiest squares.
 P.129  UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY
PARK, AND MURRAY HILL 

Prospect Park
Another Vaux and Olmsted production,
Brooklyn’s most bucolic open space fea-
tures a botanical garden and a zoo.
 P.188  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 

Contents Ideas
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The most racially
Ethnic New York The Ukrainian East Village
While the area is now home to a vibrant
diverse city on the mix of hipsters, students, yuppies, and
planet, New York’s artists, it still contains pockets of its
Ukrainian past.
five boroughs form a
 P.103  THE EAST VILLAGE 
patchwork of
constantly shifting
immigrant
neighborhoods.
Apart from bustling
Chinatown and one
or two other
districts,
Manhattan’s
immigrant quarters have
become diluted as the
island has been gentrified,
but the outer boroughs
are more of a melting pot
than ever – which usually
means vibrant streetlife,
great shopping, and
amazing food.

Contents Ideas
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Little Italy
It’s not the authentic Italian enclave of old,
but Little Italy retains a good smattering of
restaurants and cafés.
 P.85  CHINATOWN AND
LITTLE ITALY 

Brighton Beach, Brooklyn


Home to the US’s largest concentration of
Russian emigrés, many of whom gather on
the boardwalk on weekends.
 P.189  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 
Chinatown
In Manhattan’s most densely populated eth-
nic neighborhood, Chinatown’s narrow
streets pulsate with exotic herbalists and
groceries.
 P.85  CHINATOWN
AND LITTLE ITALY 

Jewish Lower East Side


As much a Latino neighborhood these days,
the Lower East Side of Manhattan still has
vestiges of its former Jewish roots.
 P.97  THE LOWER EAST SIDE 

Contents Ideas
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The bedrock of New
Museums and galleries
York’s collections is
made up of the
paintings and
artworks amassed
over the years by
the city’s industrial
tycoons, who
pillaged Europe to
furnish their
luxurious homes.
Their vanity is now
to everyone’s benefit
as New York City
claims some of the
best museums and
galleries in the The Metropolitan Museum
world. of Art
Comprised of seven major collections –
everything from Egyptian antiquities to a
Chinese garden and American period furni-
ture to celebrated Impressionist masters.
 P.161  THE UPPER EAST SIDE 

The Frick Collection


This stately Fifth Avenue mansion houses
one of the city’s most accessible and
beautifully presented collections of fine
art.
 P.161  THE UPPER EAST SIDE 

Contents Ideas
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The Whitney Museum


One of the foremost collections of
modern American art, the Whitney
complements its collection with
lively temporary shows.
 P.165  THE UPPER
EAST SIDE 

Lower East Side


Tenement Museum
Small local museum that brilliantly
captures the lives of three genera-
tions of immigrants.
 P.97  THE LOWER
EAST SIDE 

American
Museum of
Natural History
One of the leading natural
history collections in the
world, this giant museum
is affiliated with a world-
class planetarium.
 P.173  THE UPPER
WEST SIDE 

Contents Ideas
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The Big Apple is a
Shopping streets
great place to shop,
offering a wealth of
variety and price
ranges for even the
most discriminating
consumer. Like-
minded stores tend
to gather together,
so whether you’re
after that nifty
designer top, a pair
of swanky shoes, or
a fake Rolex watch, you
need to know which part of
the city to head for.

Canal Street
Chinatown’s main artery is riddled with
supermarkets and dodgy designer
watches and handbags.
 P.87  CHINATOWN AND
LITTLE ITALY 

Contents Ideas
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Madison Avenue
The upper reaches of Madison is home to
the Manhattan outlets of the big-name
designers.
 P.165  UPPER EAST SIDE 

Orchard Street
On Sunday, this Lower East Side street bus-
tles with buyers of cheap clothing and
leather bargains.
 P.97  LOWER EAST SIDE 

Fifth Avenue
Legendary home to the upscale stores –
such as Gucci, Tiffany, Cartier – and their
lavish window displays.
 P.144  MIDTOWN EAST 

Contents Ideas
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New York is the
Cafés and tearooms
ultimate walking
city, but all that
pavement pounding
needs to be
interspersed with
frequent rest and
refueling.
Fortunately an
eclectic collection of
cafés and
tearooms can be
found in just about
every neighborhood,
providing the perfect
stops for a
homemade pastry,
invigorating espresso, or a
sidewalk seat from which
to watch the world go by.

Hungarian Pastry Shop


Across from St John the Divine, this long-
standing café is an institution with
Columbia students.
 P.177  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

Contents Ideas
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Veniero’s
This East Village landmark has been serving
wonderful pastries and ice cream for over
100 years.
 P.107  THE EAST VILLAGE 

Le Figaro
Beat hangout of the 1950s, Le Figaro is
still a nice place for a drink and a snack.
 P.117  GREENWICH VILLAGE 

Café Sabarsky
This Viennese café on Museum Mile is an
ideal place to pause for a torte and coffee
before heading back to the galleries.
 P.168  UPPER EAST SIDE 

Thé Adoré
This charming Japanese tearoom and bak-
ery serves excellent teas and pastries.
 P.107  THE EAST VILLAGE 

Contents Ideas
24
Skyscrapers
Though the city’s
profile was forever
disfigured when it
lost its tallest
building, the World
Trade Center, in
2001, the skyline
retains its distinctive
majesty, as big
prestigious buildings
compete for attention along
the main central avenues.
While there are only two
major concentrations of The Citicorp Center
A Seventies update of the prestige corpo-
skyscrapers – in lower rate headquarters, and one of the city’s
Manhattan and midtown – most distinctive buildings.

they set the tone for the  P.151  MIDTOWN EAST 

city.

The Met Life Building


Soaring as it does above Grand Central
Station, this airline-wing shaped building
is one of the city’s most useful land-
marks.
 P.150  MIDTOWN EAST 

Contents Ideas
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The Empire State Building
The views from the top of the Empire State
afford a dizzying, unparalleled panorama of
Manhattan and beyond.
 P.131  MIDTOWN EAST 

The Woolworth Building


The city’s first skyscraper, and still one of
its most elegant, with one of the most
extravagantly decorated lobbies in town.
 P.80  CITY HALL PARK
AND TRIBECA 
The Chrysler Building
Approaching the Empire State in both
height and iconic status, this Art Deco won-
der is probably the most beloved sky-
scraper in the city.
 P.151  MIDTOWN EAST 

The GE Building
The centerpiece of the Rockefeller Center,
the monumental lines of this classic piece
of early twentieth-century architecture has
views that vie for the city’s best.
 P.146  MIDTOWN EAST 

Contents Ideas
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There are few
Gourmet food
places in the world
that take eating
more seriously, and
as such New York is
a great place to
shop for food,
hosting everything
from sleek designer
delis to ancient
ethnic joints that
have been serving up the
same specialties for over
a century. Wherever you
are in the city, the choice
and abundance will be
enough to make you
swoon.

Murray’s Cheese Shop


Manhattan’s most inspired and interna-
tional selection of cheeses.
 P.116  GREENWICH VILLAGE 

Contents Ideas
27
Russ & Daughters
The city’s most famous “appetizing” spot
this is the original gourmet store.
 P.99  THE LOWER EAST SIDE 

Zabar’s
Still the apotheosis of New York food fever,
this deluxe grocer’s is the city’s most emi-
nent foodstore.
 P.176  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

Dean & Deluca


Chic and expensive, with a fantastic array
of gourmet delicacies.
 P.92  SOHO 

Union Square Farmers’


Market
Create a picnic feast from the fresh produce
available four times a week at this convivial
greenmarket.
 P.128  UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY
PARK, AND MURRAY HILL 

Contents Ideas
28
If you come to New
Clubs and music venues
York City for
nightlife, you won’t
be disappointed. The
scene is constantly
changing, but we’ve
picked out some of
the city’s hardiest
perennials. Be sure,
however, to check
local listings
magazines and
other sources to find
out where the latest
cool spot is –
there’s no telling
when a new one
may open and when
it may close.

Radio City Music Hall


Home to the celebrated Rockettes, this
Art Deco gem features major acts and a
renowned Christmas special.
 P.146  MIDTOWN EAST 

Contents Ideas
29
Don Hill’s
Kitschy dance venue hosting an eclectic
mixture of live music and DJs.
 P.96  SOHO 

Village Underground
An atmospheric and intimate basement club
that showcases both new and established
talent.
 P.120  GREENWICH VILLAGE 

Mercury
Lounge
Dark yet laid-back
venue usually
hosting a mix of
local and interna-
tional rock acts.
 P.102  THE
LOWER
EAST SIDE 

Knitting
Factory
New York’s most
experimental rock
and jazz venue is
almost always
hosting something
of note.
 P.84  CITY HALL
PARK AND
TRIBECA 

Contents Ideas
30
Though it likes to
24-hour New York
think of itself as the
city that doesn’t
sleep, most
restaurants are
closed by midnight
and even bars tend
to shut down by
3am. That doesn’t
mean you are
without options.
We’ve selected a
handful of our
favorite all-night
spots that never close at
all – worth knowing if you
have a hankering for a
lobster thermidor at 4am.

Veselka
Long-standing Ukrainian establishment
that offers great borscht, day or night.
 P.109  THE EAST VILLAGE 

Stage Deli
Perfect for that overstuffed sandwich
after a night on Broadway.
 P.141  TIMES SQUARE AND
THE THEATER DISTRICT 

Contents Ideas
31
Florent
Ultra-hip meatpacking district all-nighter
that caters to the clubbing crowd.
 P.118  GREENWICH VILLAGE 

Empire Diner
A great Art Deco setting for that late-night
burger.
 P.125  CHELSEA 

Coffee Shop
Cool and informal, this Brazilian restau-
rant-cum-American diner attracts a ritzy
crowd.
 P.132  UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY
PARK, AND MURRAY HILL 

Contents Ideas
32
From its traditional
Grand hotels The Hudson
palaces of elegance The newest Ian Schrager extravaganza
offers luxurious dining and accommoda-
like the Plaza, to tion.
the glut of new,  P.141  ACCOMMODATION 
slick, designer
hotels – the
Royalton or the
Hudson – there are
few cities in the
world where you
can blow a wad on a hotel
room with quite such
panache. Even if you
cannot afford to stay in one
of them, New York’s luxury
hotels beg a visit.

Contents Ideas
33
The Plaza
The setting for countless films, this mock
chateau overlooking Central Park is the
last word in opulence.
 P.206  ACCOMMODATION 

The Royalton
Comfort and style amid the bustle of mid-
town, this is the stylish alternative for the
discerning traveler.
 P.206  ACCOMMODATION 

The Waldorf Astoria


One of the city’s most indulgent hotels, the
Waldorf still basks in its Art Deco glory.
 P.208  ACCOMMODATION 

Contents Ideas
34
City views
Stunning vistas lurk
around just about
any corner of New
York – hardly
surprising for a city
so vertical.
Expansive avenues
and sumptuous
waterscapes open onto a
wide selection of striking
views. We’ve listed some of
our favorite places to get a
memorable and unique
vision of New York.

Empire State Building


observatory
The journey to the top repays your efforts
with stirring views of midtown.
 P.131  UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY
PARK AND MURRAY HILL 

Contents Ideas
35
The Brooklyn Esplanade
The esplanade affords unparalleled views of
the Brooklyn Bridge, the East River, and the
Financial District.
 P.186  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 

From the first subway car


Tunnel vision was never so thrilling.
 P.217  ESSENTIALS 

Harbor cruises
There are many options if you want to get
out on the water, all giving great views of
Manhattan.
 P.67  THE HARBOR ISLANDS 

Helicopter
tours
There is no more
unique or mobile
way of seeing the
city than from the
air.
 P.218 
ESSENTIALS 

Contents Ideas
36
Gay New York
There are few Stonewall Bar
places where gay Site of the famous riots, the original
Stonewall is still a Village stalwart.
culture thrives to  P.119  GREENWICH VILLAGE 
the extent it does in
New York, as
manifest in the
multiplicity of bars,
stores, and other
businesses catering
to a specifically gay
clientele. There are
numerous neighborhoods,
too, that are predominantly
gay – the West Village is
the original one, though
Chelsea is probably the
largest nowadays – as well
as several free newspapers
(Blade, Next, HX, LGNY
News) worth picking up for
pointers of where to go and
what to do.

Contents Ideas
37

Christopher Street
The main drag of gay New York, Christopher
street, is home to manifold gay-oriented
bars, clubs, and businesses.
 P.114  GREENWICH VILLAGE 

Marie’s Crisis
This cabaret and piano bar always makes
for a fabulous night out.
 P.114  GREENWICH VILLAGE 

The Monster
Large and camp, this bar is celebrated for
cabaret acts and late-night dancing.
 P.119  GREENWICH VILLAGE 

Oscar Wilde
Memorial
Bookshop
A great place to begin
your tour of the
Village, this is the
city’s most extensive
gay bookshop.
 P.116  GREENWICH
VILLAGE 

Contents Ideas
38
New York has
Classic bars Subway Inn
always been a Funky old spot with cheap beer in the
shadow of Bloomingdale’s.
drinkers’ haven, and
 P.170  THE UPPER EAST SIDE 
even with the new
ban on smoking
there are still loads
of bars to entice old
soaks, young
hipsters, and weary
sightseers. Choose
from grizzled old places
that have been around
forever and take a break
from the sleek designer
joints, where you may have
to negotiate with the
bouncer.

Old Town Bar and


Restaurant
Crowded old-style New York joint in the
Flatiron District that’s a great spot for a
pre-dinner drink.
 P.133  UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY
PARK, AND MURRAY HILL 

Contents Ideas
39

Chumley’s McSorley’s Old Ale House


This former speakeasy – now a regular bar New York’s oldest bar has served its
– is reputedly where Joyce wrote bits of esteemed home-brewed ale to the likes of
Finnegan’s Wake. Abraham Lincoln.
 P.119  GREENWICH VILLAGE   P.110  THE EAST VILLAGE 

Fanelli’s
Cozy old bar that’s a
nice alternative to
SoHo’s usual slick
establishments.
 P.96  SOHO 

Contents Ideas
40
For most people
Reasons to leave the island Brooklyn Heights
Manhattan is New Just across the Brooklyn Bridge, the tran-
quil Heights offers brick- and brownstone
York, yet there are architecture and an unmatched view of
four other boroughs Manhattan.
 P.186  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 
and plenty to
experience in each
of them if you have
the time. Bear in
mind that the outer
boroughs, Brooklyn,
Queens, the Bronx,
and Staten Island,
include some of the
city’s most
ethnically diverse
neighborhoods –
reason enough in
itself to leave the
island, especially if
you want to eat.

Contents Ideas
41

Coney Island
New York’s classic beachside fun factory,
accessible for the price of a subway
ticket.
 P.189  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 

Yankee Stadium
Home to baseball’s most storied team, the
stadium is the hot ticket in the summer.
 P.192  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 

Bronx Zoo
One of the best in the country, the zoo awes
millions annually with its wildlife.
 P.192  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 

Brooklyn Botanic Garden


Quite simply, one of the most enticing green
spaces in the city – especially gorgeous in
spring.
 P.188  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 

Contents Ideas
42
Kids’ New York
Just walking the Children’s Museum of
Manhattan
streets of New York Highly interactive museum devoted to
and soaking it all in kids, who flock to its video and story-
telling presentations.
should be enough to
 P.174  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 
keep your children
stimulated, for New
York features such
obvious eye-openers
as skyscrapers,
ferry rides, and
street entertainers.
But there are also
many attractions
specifically designed for
kids that you shouldn’t
miss if you’re here as a
family.

Contents Ideas
43

Central Park Zoo New York Aquarium


Smaller and more easily accessible than the The sharks, seals, and walruses here are a
one in the Bronx, it has a petting zoo espe- good compliment to a stroll along the Coney
cially popular with younger children. Island boardwalk.
 P.155  CENTRAL PARK   P.189  OUTER BOROUGHS 

New York Transit Museum


Exhibits of old subway stations and buses
will occupy children for hours.
 P.186  OUTER BOROUGHS 

Contents Ideas
44
The smells of New
New York food
York’s distinctive
street food – an
inevitable result of
the ethnic mix that
makes up the city –
waft from every
corner. Specialties
include everything
from German treats
like pretzels and hot
dogs, which date from the
very earliest immigrants,
Jewish bialys, bagels, and
lox – and of course pizza,
the product of the city’s
large Italian community.
We’ve listed some of the
most prominent kinds that
you’ll find – there are
plenty more; don’t be
afraid to try your luck.

Pizza
While pizza is pretty much universal, New
Yorkers insist only a few places serve the
real thing.
 P.89  CHINATOWN AND
LITTLE ITALY 

Contents Ideas
45
Knishes
Delectable, doughy Jewish pastry stuffed
with potatoes, cheese, and meat, among
other options.
 P.100  THE LOWER EAST SIDE 

Bialys and lox


While bagels are ubiquitous, their drier, flat-
ter, and hole-less cousins are perfect
topped with smoked salmon.
 P.99  THE LOWER EAST SIDE 

Hot dogs
The ultimate street food, available on
virtually every corner with a variety of
garnishes.
 P.196  THE OUER BOROUGHS 

Contents Ideas
46
Even first-time
Film and TV locations
visitors will find that
there’s plenty in
New York that’s
oddly familiar – and
that’s because the
city is the ultimate
movie set and has
featured on film
and television more
than any other city.
You could fill an
entire book with its
most significant
locations; instead
we’ve just listed
some of the ones you’re
likely to be most familiar
with.

King Kong
No image is quite as iconic as the mighty
ape straddling the Empire State Building.
 P.131  UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY
PARK, AND MURRAY HILL 

Contents Ideas
47

Seinfeld
The beloved sitcom was filmed
on a stage set, but the outside of
Tom’s Diner doubled as Monk’s,
the coffeeshop where Jerry and
Co. talked about nothing.
 P.178  THE UPPER
WEST SIDE 

Breakfast at
Tiffany’s
Few stores evoke a
movie character as
indelibly as Tiffany’s
does Audrey
Hepburn’s Holly
Golightly.
 P.153  MIDTOWN
EAST 

Rosemary’s Baby
The august Dakota Building was the spooky
setting of Roman Polanski’s seminal Sixties
chiller.
 P.171  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

The Lost Weekend


PJ Clarke’s is the unmistakeable drinking
den, where Ray Milland lost his weekend.
 P.154  MIDTOWN EAST 

Contents Ideas
48
Literary landmarks
Since the early Chelsea Hotel
Numerous writers have holed up at the
nineteenth century, Chelsea, but the most famous was prob-
New York has been ably Jack Kerouac, who wrote On The
Road here in 1951.
home and workplace
 P.122  CHELSEA AND THE
to some of the GARMENT DISTRICT 
guiding lights of
world literature, and
their haunts and
activities are marked
throughout the city.
Its venerable
literary history has
been played out in
its bars, hotels,
parks, houses, and
streets, leaving behind
numerous indelible
landmarks.

Contents Ideas
49

White Horse
Tavern
Bustling bar in which
Dylan Thomas notori-
ously downed his final
scotch.
 P.120  GREENWICH
VILLAGE 

West End
Café
The unruly haunt of
Allen Ginsberg and
his fellow Beats in
the Fifties.
 P.179  THE
UPPER WEST
SIDE 

Algonquin Hotel
While the bar was the gathering place of
Dorothy Parker and her Round Table, the
hotel has long been a place for literary folk
to stay.
 P.136  TIMES SQUARE AND THE
THEATER DISTRICT 

Washington Square
Henry James’ novel of the same name pays
tribute to the redbrick terrace houses that
still fringe the square’s north side.
 P.112  GREENWICH VILLAGE 

Contents Ideas
50
Gourmet restaurants
In a city of Aquavit
Just off Fifth Avenue, Aquavit serves
restaurants, it’s not exquisite Scandinavian food in a top-notch
surprising that New ambience.
York has some truly  P.139  TIMES SQUARE AND
THE THEATER DISTRICT 
extraordinary places
to eat – usually at
prices to match.
There are the well-
established
institutions, where a
meal is an
experience in itself,
as well as a
constantly evolving
host of places
springing up to
challenge the culinary
status quo. For any of the
spots below, make sure
you reserve well in
advance.

Contents Ideas
51
71 Clinton Fresh Food
Great cooking in one of the hippest yet
most intimate restaurants in town.
 P.100  THE LOWER EAST SIDE 

Gotham Bar & Grill


In an airy and relaxed environment, savor
great American food.
 P.118  THE EAST VILLAGE 

BondSt
Some of the freshest and most fashionable
sushi in the city is served up at this modern
spot.
 P.108  THE EAST VILLAGE 

Balthazar
It’s still hard to get a table in this recreation
of a 1920s Parisian brasserie – and well
worth the wait.
 P.94  SOHO 

Contents Ideas
52
Though it’s not
Churches and synagogues
exactly a city
steeped in religion,
New York’s
churches and
synagogues reflect
its ethnic diversity,
demographic
evolution, and
architectural
ambitiousness. You
don’t necessarily
need to take in a
service to
appreciate the
pleasures of the
archetypal places
below – just
standing inside may
transport you to a
higher place.

St John the Divine


Work continues on this immense neo-
Gothic cathedral, set to be the largest in
the world when finished.
 P.175  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

Contents Ideas
53

St Mark’s
Church in-the-
Bowery
Though better known
for its literary events,
this Neoclassical edifice
is the longest serving
church in the city.
 P.106  THE EAST
VILLAGE 

Abyssinian Baptist Church


Worth a visit for its exhilarating Sunday
Gospel choir.
 P.182  HARLEM AND ABOVE 

Temple Emanu-El
Cavernous building that is America’s largest
synagogue.
 P.161  THE UPPER EAST SIDE 

St Patrick’s Cathedral
Late nineteenth-century Gothic pastiche of
the great cathedrals of Europe.
 P.147  MIDTOWN EAST 

Contents Ideas
54
While
New York on the cheap Summerstage concerts in
Central Park
accommodation, Perhaps New York’s most enjoyable bar-
entertainment, and gain, when big names in rock and jazz
play Central Park for free on summer
dining out can weekends.
certainly set you  P.155  CENTRAL PARK 
back, your visit to
New York doesn’t
have to be
expensive. Indeed,
some experiences –
like taking the
Staten Island ferry –
are within reach of
everyone, whatever
their budget.
Moreover, the city
offers many
bargains and deals
that make various
attractions much more
affordable.

Contents Ideas
55

Staten Island ferry


The best freebie of them all, the ferry’s got
the famous views as well as the relief from
the bustling streets.
 P.67  THE HARBOR ISLANDS 

Day-pass MetroCard
Travel anywhere in the city by bus or train
for under $5.
 P.217  ESSENTIALS 

Discount theater tickets


For half-price theater tickets for Broadway
or Off-Broadway shows, check out the TKTS
booth in Times Square.
 P.137  TIMES SQUARE AND
THE THEATER DISTRICT 

Contents Ideas
56
New Yorkers take
Concert halls Symphony Space
A staple for jazz, classical, and world music
their music performances.
seriously. Long lines  P.179  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 
form for anything
popular, many
concerts sell out,
and summer
evenings can see a
quarter of a million
people turning up in
Central Park for free
opera or symphony
performances. The range of
what’s available is
staggering, but it’s the big
names at the big venues
that pull in the crowds –
always try to book in
advance.

Contents Ideas
57
Lincoln Center
Home to the internationally renowned
Metropolitan Opera, the New York
Philharmonic, and other classical music
heavyweights.
 P.171  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

Carnegie Hall
The venerable stage has been graced by
the most eminent names since the hall
opened in 1891.
 P.137  TIMES SQUARE AND
The Brooklyn Academy of
THE THEATER DISTRICT  Music
America’s oldest performing arts center is
also one of the city’s most adventurous.
 P198  THE OUTER BOROUGHS 

Beacon Theatre
Big theater that hosts major touring rock
acts.
 P.179  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

Contents Ideas
58
The consumer
Big-name shops Bloomingdale’s
Famous department store that stocks
capital of the world, everything and somehow manages to
New York has shops remain the epitome of Upper East Side
style.
that cater to every
 P.167  THE UPPER EAST SIDE 
possible taste,
preference, and
perversity, in any
combination and, in
many cases, at any
time of day or night.
As such, they’re
reason enough for
visiting the city.
Although there are the
usual chains here, you’ll do
well to concentrate on the
shopping institutions that
have been around for
decades.

Contents Ideas
59
Saks Fifth Avenue
Gorgeously appointed haunt of beautiful
people looking for beautiful designer gar-
ments.
 P.152  MIDTOWN EAST 

Barney’s
A New York byword for high-flying designer
wear and the best place to find little-known
labels or next season’s hot item.
Macy’s  P.167  THE UPPER EAST SIDE 
A world unto itself, Macy’s is worth a visit
for its size alone.
 P125  CHELSEA AND THE
GARMENT DISTRICT 

Tiffany’s & Co
A Fifth Avenue landmark, Tiffany’s is worth
a visit for its famous interior and snooty
assistants.
 P.153  MIDTOWN EAST 

Bergdorf Goodman
Old-money speaks loudest at the city’s
most elegant department store, known for
its elegant window displays.
 P.152  MIDTOWN EAST 

Contents Ideas
60
Few New York
Breakfast and brunch spots Home
dining experiences The creative and reasonably priced
American food at this relaxed brunch is
are as civilized as always fresh and superb.
the leisurely  P.118  GREENWICH VILLAGE 
breakfast or the
bountiful weekend
brunch. The
number of places
offering special
breakfast or brunch
menus is ever
expanding, and, at
some restaurants,
Saturday or Sunday
brunch is the main
attraction. Often,
there is no time
limit to when
breakfast and
brunch are served,
so grab a
newspaper and join the
locals.

Contents Ideas
61

Bubby’s Good Enough to Eat


Celebrities and regular folk enjoy the homey Upper West Siders relish breakfast at this
and filling comfort food of this TriBeCa eatery. Amsterdam Avenue institution.
 P.82  CITY HALL PARK AND TRIBECA   P.177  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

Barney Greengrass
If you’re prepared to stand in line, the self-
styled “sturgeon king” is the place for the
classic lox and eggs brunch.
 P.175  THE UPPER WEST SIDE 

Contents Ideas
62
While the visitor
Parades and annual events Macy’s Thanksgiving Day
Parade
might well mistake More than two million spectators see the
the rush hour big corporate floats and dozens of marching
bands parade down Central Park West,
crowds of midtown along Broadway to Herald Square.
or the Financial  P.220  ESSENTIALS 
District for a
(somewhat)
orchestrated
procession, New
York does offer its
fair share of
parades. Almost
every ethnic group
in the city holds an
annual get-together,
often using Fifth
Avenue as its main
drag. The events are
often religious or
political in origin,
though now they are just
as much an excuse for
music, food, and dance.

Contents Ideas
63

Halloween
Every October 31st, America’s largest
Halloween celebration envelops the Village
with spectacular costumes, wigs, and
make-up.
 P.220  ESSENTIALS 

New Year’s Eve


Several hundred thousand revelers party in
the cold, well-guarded streets around Times
Square while waiting for the ball to drop.
 P.221  ESSENTIALS 

Chinese New Year


At the first full moon between January 21
and February 19, Chinatown bursts open to
watch parades, featuring gongs, heavy per-
cussion, and dragon dances.
 P.220 ESSENTIALS 

Contents Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places

Contents Places
Places

Contents Places
67

Battery Park and the


Harbor Islands

PLACES Harbor Islands


The southern tip of Manhattan Island and the enclosing
shores of New Jersey, Staten Island, and Brooklyn form
the broad expanse of New York Harbor, one of the

Battery Park and the


finest natural harbors in the world, covering one-hun-
dred square miles in total and stretching as far as the
Verrazano Narrows – the thin neck of land between
Staten Island and Long Island. While it’s quite possible
to appreciate Manhattan simply by gazing out from the
promenade in Battery Park, to get a proper sense of
New York’s uniqueness and the best views of its cele-
brated skyline, you should take to the water. The Staten
Island Ferry and Circle Line offer scenic vistas of
Gotham, as do Liberty and Ellis islands – two highly
compelling destinations.

Battery Park
Lower Manhattan lets out its
breath in Battery Park, a bright
and breezy greenspace with
inventive landscaping and views
of the Statue of Liberty, Ellis
Island, and America’s largest
harbor.The squat 1811 Castle
Clinton (daily 8.30am–5pm), on
the west side of the park, is the
place to buy tickets for and
board ferries to the Statue of
Liberty and Ellis Island. On the  CASTLE CLINTON

Seeing the Harbor Islands


Ferries run by Circle Line visit both Liberty and Ellis islands and leave every thir-
ty minutes from the pier in Battery Park in lower Manhattan (daily
9.30am–3.30pm; round-trip $10, children $4, tickets from Castle Clinton;
t212/269-5755, wwww.circlelineferry.com). The ferry goes first to Liberty Island,
then continues on to Ellis, and it’s best to leave as early in the day as possible to
avoid long lines (especially in the summer); note that if you take the last ferry of
the day, you won’t be able to visit Ellis Island. Liberty Island needs a good hour,
especially if the weather’s nice and there aren’t too many people; Ellis Island
demands at least two hours for the Museum of Immigration.
Alternatively, the free Staten Island Ferry (t212/639-9675, wwww.siferry
.com) departs every half-hour from Whitehall Terminal and shuttles some twenty
million passengers annually. While it doesn’t actually make stops on the islands,
the ferry furnishes a beautiful panorama of the islands and downtown skyline.

Contents Places
68

T.

AY
NEW

S
Hudson River

DW
WEST
MANHATTAN

OA
JER SE Y

BR
N M IVE
Battery DR
Park .R.
Liberty F.D
State Ellis Island M
Museum of Castle
Park Immigration Clinton
Battery Park and the Harbor Islands PLACES

Staten Island
Ellis Island Ferry Terminal

BROO
East
River

KLYN
- BATT
ERY TU
Liberty

NNEL
Governors
Island Island

Statue of Liberty 478


nd
Is la
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t
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0 400 yds
BROOKLYN

park’s Eisenhower Mall near recognition of fraternity


Bowling Green stands one of between the French and
the city’s first official memorials
to the victims of September
11th; its focal point is the
cracked fifteen-foot steel-and-
bronze sculpture designed by
Fritz Koenig entitled “The
Sphere” – meant to represent
world peace – that once stood in
the World Trade Center Plaza.

The Statue of Liberty


Daily 9.30am–5pm; free t212/363-
3200, wwww.nps.gov/stli. Standing
tall and proud in the middle of
New York Harbor, the Statue of
Liberty has for more than a
century served as a symbol of
the American Dream. Depicting
Liberty throwing off her
shackles and holding a beacon
to light the world, the
monument was the creation of
the French sculptor Frédéric
Auguste Bartholdi and was
crafted a hundred years after the
American Revolution in  THE STATUE OF LIBERTY

Contents Places
69
Ellis Island
Museum hours daily
9am–5.15pm; free
t212/363-3200,
wwww.ellisisland.org. Ellis

PLACES Battery Park and the Harbor Islands


Island became an
immigration station in
1892, mainly to handle
the massive influx
from southern and
eastern Europe. It
became the first stop
for more than twelve
million prospective
immigrants, all
steerage-class
passengers, and today
some one hundred
million Americans can
trace their roots here.
Ellis Island reopened
in 1990 as a Museum
of Immigration. On
the first floor, the
 ELLIS ISLAND REGISTRY ROOM
excellent permanent
exhibit, “Peopling of America,”
American people.The statue, chronicles four centuries of
which consists of thin copper immigration, offering a statistical
sheets bolted together and portrait of those who arrived.
supported by an iron framework The huge, vaulted Registry
designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Room has been left bare, with
Eiffel Tower fame) was built in just a couple of inspectors’ desks
Paris between 1874 and 1884. and American flags.The
Bartholdi enlarged his original museum’s American Family
terracotta model to its present Immigration History Center
size of 111 feet through four (wwww.ellisislandrecords.org)
successive versions.The one offers an interactive research
here was formally dedicated by database that contains
President Grover Cleveland on information from ship manifests
October 28, 1886. and passenger lists concerning
Today you can climb 192 steps over 22 million immigrants who
to the top of the pedestal or the passed through the entire Port
entire 354 steps up to the of New York between 1892 and
crown, but the cramped stairway 1924. Outside, the names of
up through the torch is sadly over 600,000 immigrants who
closed to the public.The best passed through the building over
time to visit is as early in the the years are engraved in copper
morning as possible; otherwise on the “Wall of Honor,” which
there’ll be an hour-long wait to still accepts submissions, though
ascend. Even if there is, Liberty it controversially requires
Park’s views of the lower families to pay $100 for their
Manhattan skyline are ancestors’ inclusion.
spectacular enough.

Contents Places
70

The Financial District


While most visitors to the southern end of Manhattan
make the pilgrimage to Ground Zero, former site of the
The Financial District PLACES

World Trade Center, the area is also home to some of


the city’s most historic sights. New York began here,
and its development is reflected in the dense, twisted
streets of what is now known as the Financial District,
heart of the nation’s business trade. Many of the early
colonial buildings that once lined these streets either
burned down during the American Revolution or the
Great Fire of 1835, or were later demolished by big busi-
nesses eager to boost their corporate image with head-
quarters near Wall Street. The explosive commercial
development of nearby South Street Seaport and the
conversion of old office space to residential units have
helped the Financial District shed its nine-to-five aura.

Wall Street encroaching British settlers from


The first European arrivals in the north, thus giving the
Manhattan were the Dutch, narrow canyon of today’s Wall
who built a wooden wall at the Street its name. Even in the
edge of New Amsterdam in eighteenth century,Wall Street,
1635 to protect themselves from which runs across the tip of the
island from Broadway
to South Street on the
East River, was
associated with
money: not only did
the city’s wealthiest
live here, but it was on
Wall Street that the
first banks and
insurance companies
established their offices
and where the New
York Stock Exchange
and Federal Hall are
found.

The Stock Exchange


11 Wall St t212/656-
3000, wwww.nyse
.com. Behind the
Neoclassical facade of
the New York Stock
Exchange, first
established in 1817,
 WALL STREET the purse strings of the

Contents Places
71
REET
SPRUCE

PEARL STREET
ET M STREET D O VE R
TR E ST.

ET
YS 1 BEEKM 2

TRE
RRA EET AN STR Bowne & Co, BRO
MU BARCLAY STR EET

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The Strand

FR O N
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Chapel 3
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B R O A D WAY
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William J O H N S T R E E T TREE

PLACES The Financial District


Zero T

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Barthman PLAT T ST.
Jewelry NY South
LIBERTY South St. Street

PLACE CH
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NA SS AU
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LIB ER TY S Seaport Seaport
CEDAR STREETShop

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WAS

BATTERY CEDA.R
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Trinity Museum
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New York City

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Cunard ES
T. Police Museum
PE
ON
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Building ST
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The Skycraper CE W
Fraunces
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Museum A 1ST PLAC 9 LA TE
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ER LL
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BA Green S T TR
Museum of RE
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Jewish Heritage ET M
Smithsonian National M
EATING AND DRINKING Museum of the
Bayard 8 American Indian Battery
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Bridge Café 2 BROO
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Carmine’s Bar and Grill 4
nd
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Delmonico’s 7 sla
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Liberty f

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Harry’s at Hanover Square 8


Island

li
Statue

Jeremy’s Alehouse 3 El
Les Halles 6
Orange Bear 1
Paris Café 5 0 300 yds ACCOMMODATION
Rise 9 Ritz-Carlton Hotel A

capitalist world are pulled with Federal Hall


1.3 billion shares traded and $35 26 Wall St; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; free
billion passing hands on an t212/825-6888, wwww.nps.gov/feha.
average day. Owing to security One of New York City’s finest
concerns, however, the public examples of Greek Revival
can no longer view the frenzied architecture, the Federal Hall
trading floor of the exchange, National Memorial, at Wall
which, at the time of writing, is Street’s canyon-like head, was
not expected to re-open soon. first built in 1699 to serve as the
city hall of the colony of New
 STATUE OF GEORGE WASHINGTON,
FEDERAL HALL
York. Its current (1842)
construction is best known for
the monumental statue of
George Washington on its steps.
An exhibition inside relates the
heady days of 1789 when
Washington was sworn in as
America’s first president from a
balcony on this site.The
documents and models inside
repay consideration, as does the
hall with its elegant rotunda and
Cretan maidens worked into the
decorative railings.

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72
The World Trade Center
Completed in 1973, the 110-story Twin Towers of the World Trade Center were
an integral part of New York’s legendary skyline, a symbol of the city’s social and
economic success. At 1368 and 1362 feet – over a quarter of a mile – the towers
afforded mind-blowing views; on a clear day, visitors to the observation deck
The Financial District PLACES

could see 55 miles into the distance. And although the WTC’s claim to be the
world’s tallest buildings was quickly usurped by Chicago’s Sears Tower (and later
by the Petronas Towers of Kuala Lumpur), by 2001 the towers had become both a
coveted workspace and a much-loved tourist destination.
However, on September 11 2001, as thousands of people began their working
day in the buildings, all that changed when two hijacked planes crashed into the
towers just twenty minutes apart. The subsequent collapse of both towers (as well
as other buildings in the World Trade Center complex) jolted the city and America
out of their sense of invincibility. Hundreds of firefighters, police officers, and res-
cue workers were among the 2749 people who lost their lives in the attack.
At the time of writing, all that remains of the towers is Ground Zero (see oppo-
site), the hole where they once stood, but the foundation of the new World Trade
Center is underway. In 2003, Polish-born American architect Daniel Libeskind was
named the winner of a competition held to decide what shape the new World Trade
Center would take. Libeskind’s visionary design includes the use of windmills, meant
as symbols of energy independence, beneath the planned Tower of Freedom spire,
which will soar 1776 feet high, making the new World Trade Center the second-
tallest structure on earth after the CN Tower in Toronto. In addition to the Tower, there
will be two large public spaces: Park of Heroes and Wedge of Light, which will deploy
precise engineering worthy of ancient Egypt. Underneath it all, Libeskind is leaving
space for a museum about September 11th as well as an official memorial, whose
design will be determined by another international competition.

Trinity Church a church here since 1697, but


Broadway at Wall St; free guided tours this knobby Neo-Gothic
daily at 2pm. At the western end structure – the third model –
of Wall Street,Trinity Church is only went up in 1846, and for
an ironic and stoic onlooker at fifty years was the city’s tallest
the street’s dealings.There’s been building.Trinity has the air of

 GRAVEYARD, TRINITY CHURCH

Contents Places
73
an English church (Richard Washington worshipped here,
Upjohn, its architect, was and his pew is on show.
English), especially in the
sheltered graveyard, resting place The Cunard Building
of such notables as the first 25 Broadway. An impressive

PLACES The Financial District


Secretary of the Treasury, leftover of the confident days
Alexander Hamilton, and before the Wall Street Crash, the
steamboat king Robert Fulton. Cunard Building was
constructed in 1921. Its marble
Ground Zero walls and high dome once
Church St, between Vesey and Liberty housed the famous steamship
streets; free. The gaping hole line’s transatlantic booking office
where the Twin Towers of the for such well-known seafaring
World Trade Center stood draws vessels as the Queen Mary and
countless visitors to pay their the Queen Elizabeth – hence the
respects to those who perished elaborate, whimsical murals of
in the terrorist attacks of variegated ships and nautical
September 11, 2001, and see the mythology splashed around the
site of the destruction first- ceiling of the Great Hall, now a
hand.The makeshift plywood US post office.
platform that went up two
months after the towers’ collapse The Museum of American
has since become a sturdy semi- Financial History
permanent construction with a 28 Broadway; Tues–Sat 10am–4pm;
screenlike grid of galvanized $2 t212/908-4110,
steel, memorial photos, and wwww.financialhistory.org. Housed
views of the first phase of the in the former headquarters of
new World Trade Center con- John D. Rockefeller’s Standard
struction.

St Paul’s Chapel
Broadway at Fulton St; daily
8am–6pm. The oldest
public building in
continuous use and the
oldest church in
Manhattan, St Paul’s
Chapel dates from
1766 – eighty years
earlier than the current
Trinity Church,
making it almost
prehistoric by New
York standards.
Though the building is
American in feel, its
English architect used
Georgian St Martin-
in-the-Fields in
London as his model
for this unfussy space
of soap-bar blues and
pinks. George  ST PAUL’S CHAPEL

Contents Places
74
Oil Company, this is the largest 10am–8pm; free t212/514-3700,
public archive of financial wwww.si.edu/nmai. Cass Gilbert’s
documents and artifacts in the 1907 US Customs House is
world, featuring such finance- now home to the Smithsonian
related objects as the bond National Museum of the
The Financial District PLACES

signed by Washington bearing American Indian, an excellent


the first dollar sign ever used on collection of artifacts from
a Federal document, and a almost every tribe native to the
stretch of ticker tape from the Americas.The permanent
opening moments of 1929’s collection includes intricate
Great Crash. basketry and woodcarvings,
quilled hides, feathered bonnets,
Bowling Green and objects of ceremonial
The city’s oldest public park significance. A rather
was the location of one of extraordinary facet of the
Manhattan’s more memorable museum is its repatriation
business deals, when Peter policy, which mandates that it
Minuit, first director general of give back to Indian tribes, upon
the Dutch colony of New request, any human remains,
Amsterdam, bought the whole funerary objects, and ceremonial
island from the Indians in 1626 and religious items it has
for a bucket of trade goods acquired.
worth sixty guilders (about
$25). The other side of the Museum of Jewish Heritage
story, rarely told, is that these 36 Battery Place; Sun–Tues & Thurs
particular Indians didn’t 10am–5.45pm, Wed 10am–8pm, Fri
actually own the island – no 10am–5pm; Oct–March museum
doubt both parties went home closes at 3pm on Fri; $7, students $5
smiling. t212/509-6130, wwww.mjhnyc.org.
This living memorial to the
The Smithsonian National Holocaust features three floors
Museum of the American of exhibits focusing on
Indian twentieth-century Jewish
1 Bowling Green, the US Customs history.The moving and
House; daily 10am–5pm, Thurs informative collection features

 FACADE, NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE

Contents Places
75
practical accoutrements of The Shrine of
everyday Eastern European Elizabeth Ann Seton
Jewish life, prison garb survivors 7 State St; Mon–Fri 6.30am–5pm, Sat
wore in Nazi concentration & Sun 10am–3pm; t212/269-6865.
camps, photographs, personal This rounded dark, red-brick

PLACES The Financial District


belongings, and multimedia Georgian facade identifies the
presentations.There’s also a first native-born American to be
healthy schedule of events, canonized. St Elizabeth lived
films, and discussions of Jewish here briefly before moving to
life. found a religious community in
Maryland.The shrine – small,
The Skyscraper Museum hushed, and illustrated by pious
Ground floor of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 2 and tearful pictures of the saint’s
West St; Mon–Fri noon–6pm; life – is one of a few old houses
suggested donation $2 t212/968- that have survived the district’s
1961, wwww.skyscraper.org. modernizing onslaught.
Situated in the world’s foremost
vertical metropolis, this newly The New York City Police
renovated museum is entirely Museum
devoted to the study of high- 100 Old Slip between Water and South
rise building, past, present, and sts Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; suggested
future. Related exhibitions and donation $5, students and seniors free
events range from panels for the t212/480-3100,
Viewing Wall at Ground Zero wwww.nycpolicemuseum.org. The
to a virtual walking tour of oldest museum of its kind in
Lower Manhattan. the country, this arresting
collection of memorabilia from
The Fraunces Tavern the New York Police
Museum Department showcases the
54 Pearl St at Broad St; Tues, Wed, Fri history of New York’s Finest
10am–5pm, Thurs 10am–7pm, Sat with nightsticks, guns, uniforms,
11am–5pm; $3, students and seniors photos, and the like – over
$2 t212/425-1778, wwww.fraunces- 10,000 items in all. Among the
tavernmuseum.org. Having highlights are sergeants’ copper
survived extensive modification, badges from 1845 (which
several fires, and nineteenth- earned them the nickname
century use as a hotel, the “coppers”) and the Tommy gun
three-story, ochre-and-red-brick – in its original gangster-issue
Fraunces Tavern was almost violin case – that was used to
totally reconstructed in 1907 to rub out Al Capone’s gang
mimic its appearance on leader, Frankie Yale.
December 4, 1783, when, after
hammering the Brits, a weeping South Street Seaport
George Washington took leave Visitors’ center at 12–14 Fulton St;
of his assembled officers, intent t212/732-7678. The center of
on returning to rural life in New York City’s port district
Virginia: “I am not only retiring from 1815 to 1860, South Street
from all public employments,” Seaport houses all kinds of
he wrote, “but am retiring restaurants and shops and
within myself.” It was a hasty features an outdoor promenade.
statement – six years later he Its Pier 17 has become the focal
returned as the new nation’s point of the district; always
president. crowded in the summer, it’s

Contents Places
76
where you can listen to free reservations on t 212/363-
music, tour historic moored 5481).
ships like the Peking (1911), the
Ambrose Lightship (1908), and
the Wavetree (1855), or book Shops
The Financial District PLACES

cruises with the New York


Waterway (May–Nov, two-hour Bowne & Co, Stationers
cruises $24, fifty-minute cruises 211 Water St at Beekman St
$11; T1-800/533-3779, t212/748-8651. This gas-lit
Wwww.nywaterway.com). nineteenth-century shop
However, you don’t have to produces fine examples of
spend a dime to take in the authentic letterpress printing.
fantastic views of the Brooklyn You can order a set of business
and Manhattan bridges from the cards made by hand here with
promenade. antique handpresses.

South Street Seaport Century 21


Museum 22 Cortlandt St between Broadway
207 Front St, daily: April–Sept and Church St t212/227-9092.
10am–6pm, Oct–March 10am–5pm; $5 Fashion mavens and bargain
t212/748-8600, hunters flock to New York’s
wwww.southstseaport.org. Lodged in most beloved discount
a series of painstakingly restored department store on weekends
1830s warehouses, the museum for massive sales on designer
presents the largest collection of labels, which often sell for 40-
sailing vessels in the US, plus a 70 percent lower than
handful of maritime art and anywhere else.
trade exhibits.The museum also
offers daytime, sunset, and night- The New York Yankees
time cruises around New York Clubhouse Shop
Harbor on the Pioneer, an 1895 8 Fulton St between Front and Water
schooner that accommodates up sts Mon–Sat 10am–7pm, Sun
to forty people (May–Sept; $25, 11am–6pm T212/514-7182. In case
$20 for students and seniors, $15 you want that celebrated “NY”
for children under 12; logo on your clothing, this

 SHIPS AT SOUTH STREET SEAPORT

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77
South Street Seaport emporium Carmine’s Bar and Grill
has it all. 140 Beekman St at Front St
t212/962-8606. In business since
The Strand Seaport 1903, this place specializes in
95 Fulton St between Gold and William northern Italian-style seafood

PLACES The Financial District


sts t212/732-6070. Its Village and exudes a comfortable if
counterpart may boast eight rundown ambience.Try a glass
miles of books, but this of the house wine and a bowl
Financial District outpost holds of linguini in clam sauce for
its own with a superb collection lunch.
of new and used titles for sale
and is far less crowded; older Delmonico’s
books are from 50¢ up. 56 Beaver St at William St t212/509-
1144; closed Saturdays. Many a
William Barthman Jewelry million-dollar deal has been
174 Broadway at Maiden Lane made at this 1837 landmark
t212/514-9454. Since 1884, this steakhouse that features pillars
fine jeweller has been selling from Pompeii and classics like
exquisite accessories to Wall lobster newburg. Many go for
Streeters.Worth a browse and its pricey Porterhouses and
ogle for its Old World charm. historic charms.

Les Halles
Restaurants 25 John St between Broadway and
Nassau St t 212/285-8585. This
Bayard heady French bistro is the Rive
1 Hanover Square at Pearl St Gauche fantasy of Kitchen
t212/514-9454. Set in the 1851 Confidential chef Anthony
India House, this maritime- Bourdain, who strives for
themed French-American authenticity but often churns
restaurant earns rave reviews for out Gallic dishes, such as
its inspired seasonal cuisine such escargots in garlic butter and
as autumnal venison with duck confit shepherd’s pie, that
poached pear and spring rack of are over the top.
lamb with honey mustard glaze,
expert service, and magical, if Paris Café
clubby, atmosphere. 119 South St between Beekman St and
Peck Slip t212/240-9797.
Bridge Café Established in 1873, this old-
279 Water St at Dover St t212/227- fashioned bar and restaurant
3344. It is said there’s been a bar played host to a panoply of
here since 1794, but this place luminaries, such as Thomas
looks very up-to-the-minute. Edison, who used the café as a
The good crabcakes come from second office while designing
the local fish market, and there the first electric power station.
are plenty of upscale beers with These days the elegant square
which to wash them down.The bar, tempting seafood specials,
rare eighteenth-century and stellar views of the
framehouse, painted red with Brooklyn Bridge still pull in a
black trim, is well worth a look. lively crowd; entrees go for
Entrees are priced between $16 about $16 and $25.
and $25.

Contents Places
78
Bars well-priced pint mugs of beer
and excellent fresh fish and
seafood, as well as burgers.
Harry’s at Hanover Square
1 Hanover Square between Pearl and Orange Bear
.
The Financial District PLACES

Stone sts t212/425-3412 Clubby 47 Murray St between Church St and


bar that hits its stride when the West Broadway t212/566-3705. This
floor traders come in after funky dive bar may need a
work. Great burgers, but only facelift, but it’s still a great place
open on weekdays. to check out obscure indie and
grunge bands and occasional
Jeremy’s Alehouse spoken word events.
254 Front St at Dover St t212/964-
3537. Once a sleazy bar in the Rise
shadow of the Brooklyn Bridge, 2 West St, Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 14th Floor,
Jeremy’s fortunes changed with Battery Park t212/344-0800. Try this
the aggrandizement of the plush hotel lounge for swanky
nearby South Street Seaport. sunset drinks, tiered trays of
However, it’s still an gourmet tapas, and outstanding
unpretentious bar that serves views of the Statue of Liberty.

Contents Places
79

City Hall Park and


TriBeCa

PLACES City Hall Park and TriBeCa


Since its early days, the seats of New York’s federal,
state, and city government have been located around
City Hall Park. Though many of the original civic build-
ings no longer stand, there remain great examples of
some of the city’s finest architecture here, with the
Woolworth Building standing by as a venerable onlook-
er, while the Brooklyn Bridge zooms eastward over the
river. West of City Hall, TriBeCa (Try-beck-a), the
Triangle Below Canal Street, is a former wholesale gar-
ment district that has been transformed into an upscale
community that mixes commercial establishments with
loft residences, galleries, celebrity hang-outs, and chic
eateries, many of which can be found along Hudson and
Greenwich streets.

City Hall Park hostages, and championship-


Landscaped in 1730, City Hall winning teams.The interior is an
Park is dotted with statues, not elegant meeting of arrogance and
least of which is of Horace authority, with a sweeping spiral
Greeley, founder of the New York staircase that delivers you to the
Tribune newspaper. Prize position, precise geometry of the upper
however, goes to Nathan Hale, floors.
who was hanged in 1776 by the
British for spying, but not before The Tweed Courthouse
he’d spat out his glorious and 52 Chambers St. If City Hall is the
famous last words:“I regret that I acceptable face of New York’s
only have but one life to lose for municipal bureaucracy, the
my country.”At the north end of genteel-looking Victorian-style
the park sits
City Hall,
completed in
1812.After
New York
saluted the hero
aviator Charles
A. Lindbergh in
1927, it became
the traditional
finishing point
for Broadway
ticker-tape
parades given
for astronauts,
returned  CITY HALL PARK

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Tweed Courthouse is a the Democratic Central


reminder of its infamous Committee in 1856, steering
nineteenth-century corruption. the city’s revenues into both his
The man behind the gray and his supporters’ pockets.
marble construction,William Tweed’s grip strangled all dissent
Marcy “Boss”Tweed, worked his until a political cartoonist,
way up to become chairman of Thomas Nast, turned public
opinion against him in the late
1860s.

The Woolworth Building


233 Broadway between Barclay St and
Park Place. The world’s tallest
skyscraper until it was surpassed
in 1929 by the Chrysler
Building, the Woolworth
Building exudes money,
ornament, and prestige.The
soaring, graceful lines of Cass
Gilbert’s 1913 “Cathedral of
Commerce” are fringed with
Gothic-style gargoyles and
decorations that are more for
fun than any portentous
allusion. Frank Woolworth made
his fortune from his “five and
dime” stores – everything cost
either 5¢ or 10¢, strictly no
 THE WOOLWORTH BUILDING credit.The whimsical reliefs at

Contents Places
81
each corner of the lobby, open bridge’s meeting of art and
during office hours, show him function, of romantic Gothic
doing just that: counting out the and daring practicality, became a
money in nickels and dimes. sort of spiritual model for the
The vaulted ceilings ooze with next generation’s skyscrapers.

PLACES City Hall Park and TriBeCa


honey-gold mosaics, and even The bridge didn’t go up
the brass mailboxes are without difficulties: John
magnificent. Augustus Roebling, its architect
and engineer, crushed his foot
The Municipal Building taking measurements and died
1 Centre St, North Plaza. Straddling of gangrene, and twenty workers
Chambers Street, the 25-story perished during construction.
Municipal Building stands like Today, you can walk across its
an oversized chest of drawers wooden planks from City Hall
across Centre Street. Built Park, but it’s best not to look
between 1908 and 1913, it was back till you’re midway: the
architects McKim, Mead and Financial District’s giants clutter
White’s first skyscraper, but was shoulder to shoulder through
actually designed by one of their the spidery latticework of the
younger partners,William cables; the East River pulses
Mitchell Kendall. Atop it, an below as cars hum to and from
extravagant “wedding cake” Brooklyn – a glimpse of the
tower signals a frivolous twenty-first-century metropolis
conclusion to a no-nonsense and the Statue of Liberty that’s
building that houses public on no account to be missed.
records and a second-story
wedding “chapel” for civil West Broadway
ceremonies. West Broadway is one of
TriBeCa’s main thoroughfares,
The Brooklyn Bridge with several of the
One of several spans across the neighborhood’s best boutiques
East River, the Brooklyn and restaurants, old and new, that
Bridge, with its arched gateways, thins out the further south the
is the most celebrated. It’s hard street goes. Across West
to believe it towered over the Broadway, at no. 14 North
brick structures around it upon Moore at the intersection of
opening in 1883 or that, for Varick, stands the former New
twenty years after, it was the York Fire Department’s Hook
world’s largest and longest and Ladder Company #8, a
suspension bridge. Indeed, the turn-of-the-nineteenth-century

 THE BROOKLYN BRIDGE

Contents Places
82
brick-and-stone firehouse dotted
with white stars that played a
crucial role in the rescue efforts
of September 11th.
City Hall Park and TriBeCa PLACES

Shops
J&R Music and Computer
World
15–23 Park Row between Beekman
and Ann sts, Mon–Sat 9am–7.30pm,
Sunday 10am–6.30pm t212/238-
9000. You’ll find some of the
city’s best prices for stereo and
computer equipment here, as
well as a wide selection of
music, including some hard-to-
find recordings.
 RESTAURANTS ON WEST BROADWAY

Totem Design Group


71 Franklin St between Broadway and Art in General
Church St t212/925-5506. Displays 79 Walker St near Broadway Tues–Sat
and sells the colorful creations noon–6pm, closed June–Aug
of over thirty US and European t212/219-0473, wwww.artin
industrial designers. general.org. This 25-year-old
exhibition space is devoted to
Urban Archeology the unconventional art of
143 Franklin St between Hudson and emerging artists.
Varick sts t212/431-4646.
Sensational finds for the home Art Projects International
from salvaged buildings, 429 Greenwich St, Suite 5B by
including lighting fixtures and appointment only t212/343-2599,
old-fashioned plumbing. wwww.artprojects.com. This
eminent gallery is highly
respected for showing leading
Galleries contemporary artists from Asia.

123 Watts Cheryl Pelavin Fine Arts


123 Watts St below Canal St by 13 Jay St near Greenwich St Tues–Sat
appointment only t212/219-1482, 11am–6pm t212/925-9424,
wwww.123watts.com. Contemporary wwww.cherylpelavin.com. Cheryl
artwork in a variety of media, Pelavin develops and displays
particularly specializing in works new artistic talent, notably
on paper. printmakers.

Apex Art
291 Church St between Walker and Restaurants
White sts; Tues–Sat 11am–6pm
t212/431-5270, wwww.apexart.org. Bubby’s
The thematic multimedia 120 Hudson St between Franklin and N
exhibits here are known for Moore sts t212/219-0666. A
their intellectual diversity. relaxed TriBeCa restaurant

Contents Places
83
serving homely health- priced French spot with a lively
conscious American food, such bar made from zinc.
as great scones, mashed potatoes,
rosemary chicken, and soups. A Montrachet
good, moderately priced brunch 239 W Broadway between Walker and

PLACES City Hall Park and TriBeCa


spot, too – the trout and eggs is White sts t212/219-2777. Simply
a killer. one of the city’s best and most
enduring French restaurants,
City Hall revered for its contemporary
131 Duane St between Church St and cuisine, stellar service, and deep
W Broadway t212/227-7777. With wine cellar. $20 prix fixe lunch
a nod toward old-time New on Fridays.
York City, City Hall is all class,
with amazing steaks and always- Nobu
fresh oysters.The open-room 105 Hudson St at Franklin St
ambience, great service, and t212/219-0500. Robert De
opportunity to rub shoulders Niro’s best-known restaurant,
with celebs make the inevitable whose lavish woodland decor
splurge worth it. complements truly superlative
Japanese cuisine, especially sushi,
Danube at the ultra-high prices you
30 Hudson St between Duane and would expect.Try the black cod
Reade sts t212/791-3771. Old with miso. If you can’t get a
Vienna lives at this plush and reservation, try Next Door Nobu,
decadent Austrian, where located just next door.
schnitzel is taken to heavenly
heights. It’s expensive but a Odeon
terrific spot for a romantic 145 W Broadway between Duane and
evening on the town. Thomas sts t212/233-0507. Odeon
has shown surprising staying
Le Zinc power, perhaps because of the
139 Duane St between Church St and eclectic food choices, and the
W Broadway t212/513-0001. people-watching can’t be
Heavy-hitting chef-owners run beaten, although the acoustics
this low-key and decently could use some help. Entrees go
for $15–20 and, on
the whole, are
worth it.

Sosa Borella
460 Greenwich St
between Desbrosses
and Watts sts
t212/431-5093.
Tucked on a quiet
side street, this
Argentine-
Mediterranean
eatery is a
longtime favorite
of locals. Call to
inquire about
 TRIBECA tango nights.

Contents Places
84
TriBeCa Grill Lush
375 Greenwich St at Franklin St 110 Duane St between Broadway and
t212/941-3900. Some come Church St t212/766-1275. If you’re
hoping for a glimpse of owner looking for a private and dark
Robert De Niro when they spot to tipple and cuddle, this is
City Hall Park and TriBeCa PLACES

should really be concentrating it. Sexy and secret, all the way.
on the food – fine American
cooking with Asian and Italian No Moore
accents at around $30 a main 234 W Broadway at N Moore St
course.The setting is nice too; t212/925-2595. Sprawling,
an airy, brick-walled eating area friendly lounge with live music.
around a central Tiffany bar. Mostly on weekends. It suits
many that it’s past its prime.

Bars Puffy’s Tavern


81 Hudson St between Harrison and
Bubble Lounge .
Jay sts t212/766-9159 Far from
228 W Broadway between Franklin and being P. Diddy’s hang-out, this
White sts t212/431-3433. A plush small dive bar serves up cheap
place to pop a cork or two – booze and not an ounce of
there’s a long list of champagnes attitude. Its cool jukebox
and sparklers, but beware the specializes in old 45s.
skyrocketing tabs.

Dylan Prime
62 Laight St at Greenwich St Clubs and music
t212/334-4783. Dim, romantic,
and slightly off the beaten venues
Tribeca path, this is the place for
a stellar martini. Knitting Factory
74 Leonard St between Church St and
Grace Broadway t212/219-3006,
114 Franklin St between Church St and wwww.knittingfactory.com. At this
W Broadway t212/343-4200. An intimate downtown space, you
excellent cocktail and olives can hear all kinds of aural
spot teeming with old-school experimentation, from art-rock
class – there’s a forty-foot and avant-garde jazz to
mahogany bar.Try a Pimm’s electronica, hip-hop, and indie-
Cup. rock. Cover prices vary wildly,
so call ahead.
Liquor Store Bar
235 W Broadway at
White St t212/226-
7121. Homely
little wood-
paneled pub with
sidewalk seating
that feels like it’s
been around since
colonial times. A
welcome respite
from the trendy
local scene.  PUFFY’S TAVERN

Contents Places
85

Chinatown and
Little Italy

PLACES Chinatown and Little Italy


With more than 200,000 people, seven Chinese newspa-
pers, twelve Buddhist temples, around 150 restaurants,
and over 300 garment factories, Chinatown is
Manhattan’s most densely populated ethnic neighbor-
hood. Since the Eighties, it has pushed its boundaries
north across Canal Street into Little Italy and sprawls
east into the nether fringes of the Lower East Side.
Walk through Chinatown’s crowded streets at any time
of day, and you’ll find restaurant after restaurant boom-
ing; storefront displays of shiny squids, clawing crabs,
and clambering lobsters; and street markets overflow-
ing with piles of exotic green vegetables, garlic, and
ginger root. The red, green, and white tinsel decorations
and suited hosts who aggressively lure tourists to their
restaurants in Little Italy are undeniable signs that
today’s neighborhood is light years away from the solid
ethnic enclave of old. Few Italians still live here; some
original bakeries and salumerias (Italian specialty food
stores) have survived, however, and there are still plenty
of places to indulge yourself with a cappuccino and
pricey pastry.

Mott Street
Mott Street is Chinatown’s most
obvious tourist restaurant row,
although the streets around –
Canal, Pell, Bayard, Doyers, and
Bowery – host a glut of
restaurants, tea and rice shops,
and Old Country grocers that
are fun to browse in. Cantonese
cuisine predominates, but there
are also many restaurants that
specialize in the spicier
Szechuan and Hunan cuisines,
along with Fukien, Soochow,
and the spicy Chowchou dishes.
Anywhere you enter is likely to
be good, but remember that
most restaurants start closing up
around 10pm so go early.
 CHINATOWN

Contents Places
86

0 400 yds EATING & DRINKING


HO Big Wong 11
TO
US Bo Ky 15
N S Double
TRE
ET Happiness 3
Excellent

.
Dumpling House 7
ST
Chinatown and Little Italy PLACES

NE P R Old St Patrick’s Ferrara 6


EE
INC
E S Cathedral Lombardi’s 1
ET
GR

RE TR
EE 4
T N O L I T A Mare Chiaro
ST

Y
New York

EET
A
R

W
Noodletown 17
CE

TR
SP
D

BR RI

RY S
ER

OO Nha Trang 9
A

NG
ME
O
M

ST Nyonya 5

BER
R

ST RE
B

RE ET Peking
LITTLE

MUL
ET
Duck House 18

R Y
I TA LY

S T.
1 Ping’s Seafood 19
GR K
Old Police E N M A R Shanghai

W E
TH
AN

ABE
D
ST Headquarters E S
TR
2 Cuisine 16
EE

B O
RE Sweet ‘n’

ELIZ
T
ET

ET
Tart Restaurant 10
RE

ET

Sweet &
ST

RE

Pearl Paint
EET
BY

3 Vicious 2
ES
OS

Company H O W 4 Tea & Tea 14


TT
CR

STR

AR
YE

D Thailand 12
FA

ST
ET

M RE 5 DiPaolo’s
LA

Vincent’s 8
RE

ET
TT
EET
ST

Alleva 6 Winnie’s 13
MO

CA
RE

STR

NA
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M M Dairy
L
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seve
WE

T ET
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C H I N ATO W N
BO

Roo

ST

ET
YST

RE 9 Kam Man
STRE
ET

ET
R EET
EET
CHR

TRE
D.

Museum of Chinese Food Products


S TR

ARD
HE S

N ST
Sara

in the Americas 11 10 M
R I DE

ORCH
SYT

A LLE

12 13
ELD

Buddhist
FOR

B A 14 15
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STRE

RD CAN
Church of 16 ST AL S
REET

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CONFUCIUS
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the Transfiguration ET
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PLAZA
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ESSE

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T H Park 19
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CHATHAM
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ES

BRID
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INE ST
ST

TREET

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MADISO
REET

Church of the Transfiguration Museum of Chinese in the


29 Mott St.The 1801 green- Americas
domed Catholic school and 70 Mulberry St, 2nd fl; Tues–Sun
Church of the Transfiguration is noon–5pm suggested admission $3,
a rare and elegant Georgian students and seniors $1, under 12 free
edifice, predating the Chinese t212/619-4785, wwww.moca-
arrival, that recently underwent nyc.org. This tiny fascinating
massive renovations. Masses are museum is dedicated to the
held in Cantonese, English, and experiences of Chinese
Mandarin. immigrants in the Americas as
well as to reclaiming and
preserving Chinese history in

Contents Places
 CANAL STREET
87

PLACES Chinatown and Little Italy


the West. Displays include Grand Street
photographs and cultural While Grand Street used to be
memorabilia, temporary exhibits the city’s Main Street in the
of Asian-American art, and a mid-1800s, nowadays you will
slideshow on the history of find outdoor fruit, vegetable,
Chinatown.The museum offers and live seafood stands lining
an excellent and informative the curbs, offering snow peas,
guided historical group tour of bean curd, fungi, oriental
Chinatown ($12, call three cabbage, and dried sea
weeks ahead to book). cucumbers to the passersby.
Ribs, whole chickens, and
Mahayana Buddhist Temple Peking ducks glisten in the
133 Canal St; daily 8am–6pm; storefront windows, alongside
t212/925-8787. On Confucius those of Chinese herbalists.The
Plaza, the gilded Mahayana roots and powders in their
Buddhist Temple appeals for its boxes, drawers, and glass bottles
fairy lights, neon circlets, and are century-old remedies but, to
the gold Buddha that dominates those accustomed to Western
the main room, if not the 32 medicine, may seem like
plaques telling the story of voodoo potions.
Buddha himself.
 SEAFOOD IN CHINATOWN

Canal Street
Canal Street is Chinatown’s
main all-hours artery crammed
with jewelry shops and kiosks
hawking sunglasses,T-shirts, and
fake Rolexes. At the eastern end
of the thoroughfare, the 1909
Manhattan Bridge’s grand
Beaux Arts entrance marks a
formal end to Chinatown and
almost seems out of place amid
the neon signs and Cantonese
movie theaters.

Contents Places
88
Mulberry Street
Little Italy’s main strip,
Mulberry Street, is home to
many of the area’s cafés and
restaurants – and therefore filled
Chinatown and Little Italy PLACES

with tourists.There are no


stand-out restaurants to speak
of, although the former site of
Umberto’s Clam House, on the
corner of Mulberry and Hester
streets, was notorious in its time
as the scene of a vicious
gangland murder in 1972, when
Joe “Crazy Joey” Gallo was shot
dead while celebrating his
birthday with his wife and
daughter.
 MULBERRY STREET
Old St Patrick’s Cathedral
263 Mulberry St at Prince St .The high-rise dome and lavish
first Catholic cathedral in the ornamentation.The police
city, Old St Patrick’s Cathedral headquarters moved in 1973,
began by serving the Irish and the somewhat overbearing
immigrant community in 1809 palace was converted into
and is the parent church to its upmarket condominiums, some
much more famous offspring on of which have been called home
Fifth Avenue and 50th Street. by Steffi Graf,Winona Ryder,
and Maya Angelou.
Old Police Headquarters
Striking counterpoint to the
lawlessness of the Italian Shops
underworld can be found at the
corner of Centre and Broome Alleva Dairy
streets, where you’ll find the 188 Grand St at Mulberry St
Old Police Headquarters, a t212/226-7990. Oldest Italian
palatial 1909 Neoclassical formaggiaio (cheesemonger) and
construction meant to cow grocery in America. Makes own
would-be criminals with its smoked mozzarella, provolone,
and ricotta.

DiPaolo Dairy
200 Grand St at Mott St t212/226-
1033. Charming and
authoritative family-run business
that sells some of the city’s best
ricotta, along with a fine
selection of aged balsamic
vinegars, oils, and homemade
pastas.

Kam Man Food Products


200 Canal St between Mott and
 OLD POLICE HEADQUARTERS Mulberry sts t212/571-0330.

Contents Places
89
Chinatown’s best resource for serving very inexpensive noodle
Asian gourmets; you’ll find soups and seafood dishes.The
imported foods and terrific house specialty is a big bowl of
bargains on housewares, rice noodles with shrimp, fish,
including bamboo steamers and or duck.

PLACES Chinatown and Little Italy


a large selection of tea sets.
Excellent Dumpling House
Pearl Paint Company 111 Lafayette St between Canal and
308 Canal St between Church St and Walker sts t212/219-0212. The
Broadway t212/431-7932. Housed thing to order is obviously the
in a jolly old red-and-white most excellent dumplings, lots
warehouse in the heart of of them, any way you like them.
Chinatown, Pearl claims to be Their scallion pancakes are also
the largest art supply store in delicious.
the world. It has five floors of
competitively priced art Lombardi’s
supplies, including fabric paint 32 Spring St between Mott and
and airbrushing and silk- Mulberry sts t212/941-7994. The
screening equipment. oldest pizzeria in Manhattan
serves some of the best pies in
town, including an amazing
Cafés clam pizza; no slices, though.
Ask for roasted garlic on the
Ferrara side.
195 Grand St between Mott and
Mulberry sts t212/226-6150. Little New York Noodletown
Italy’s oldest and most popular 28 Bowery at Bayard St t212/349-
café, serving locals from the old 0923. Despite the name, noodles
country and tourists since 1892. aren’t the real draw at this
down-to-earth eatery – the soft-
Tea and Tea shell crabs are crisp, salty, and
51 Mott St at Bayard St t 212/766- delicious. Good roast meats (try
9889. Wildly popular Chinese the baby pig) and soups too.
soda fountain serving bubble
teas with tapioca pearls, made Nha Trang
from sweet potato, cassava root, 87 Baxter St between Bayard and
and brown sugar. Canal sts t212/233-5948. Never
mind the rushed service here,
this Chinese-Vietnamese
Restaurants restaurant offers some of the
neighborhood’s most delicious
Big Wong and affordable meals.
67 Mott St between Bayard and Canal
sts t212/964-0540. This cafeteria- Nyonya
style Cantonese BBQ joint 194 Grand St between Mott and
serves some of Chinatown’s Mulberry sts t212/334-3669. Superb
tastiest duck and congee (savory Malaysian grub at wallet-friendly
rice stew). prices. Order some coconut milk
– served chilled in the shell.
Bo Ky
80 Bayard St between Mott and Peking Duck House
Mulberry sts t212/406-2292. 28 Mott St between Chatham Square
Cramped Chinese-Vietnamese and Pell St t212/227-1810.This

Contents Places
90
chic and shiny clean eatery and serves fresh, cheap, and spicy
dishes up – you guessed it – seafood dishes – clams, mussels,
duck. Be sure your crispy fried and squid. Its cafeteria decor has
bird is carved tableside. its local charms.
Chinatown and Little Italy PLACES

Ping’s Seafood
22 Mott St between Bayard and Pell sts Bars
t212/602-9988. While this Hong
Kong seafood restaurant is good Double Happiness
anytime, it’s most enjoyable on 174 Mott St at Broome St t212/941-
weekends for dim sum, when 1282. Low ceilings, dark lighting,
carts of tasty, bite-size delicacies and lots of nooks and crannies
whirl by for the taking every make this downstairs bar an
thirty seconds. intimate place, but there’s not
much besides its name that is
Shanghai Cuisine Asian. If the decor doesn’t
89 Bayard St at Mulberry St seduce you, one of the house
t212/732-8988. The thing to specialties – a green tea martini
order here is the crab-pork soup – should soon loosen you up.
dumplings – they’ll make you
swoon. At night Polynesian-style Mare Chiaro
tiki drinks flow for an extra 176-1/2 Mulberry St between Broome
good time. and Grande sts t212/226-9345.
Looks like a backroom hang-
Sweet ‘n’ Tart Restaurant out from the Sopranos but is
20 Mott St at Canal St t212/964- really a favorite local dive bar
0380. The place for shark’s-fin for all.
soup and other Hong Kong-
style seafood delicacies, as well Sweet & Vicious
as superb dim sum.Very 5 Spring St between Bowery and
popular, so expect to wait. Elizabeth St t212/334-7915. A
neighborhood favorite, it’s the
Thailand epitome of rustic chic with its
106 Bayard St at Baxter St exposed brick and wood, replete
t212/349-3132.The well-priced with antique chandeliers.The
Thai food here is eaten at long atmosphere makes it seem all
communal tables. The whole cozy, as does the back garden.
fish dishes, crispy and spicy, are
standouts. Winnie’s
104 Bayard St between Baxter and
Vincent’s Mulberry sts t212/732-2384.Cheesy
119 Mott St at Hester St t212/226- tunes dominate at this tropical
8133. A Little Italy mainstay lounge-cum-karaoke dive bar
that’s been around for decades that’s a hit with everyone from
hipsters to Asian tourists.

Contents Places
91

SoHo
The grid of streets between Houston and Canal, SoHo
(short for South of Houston) was a gray wasteland of

PLACES SoHo
manufacturers and wholesalers in the nineteenth centu-
ry, known for its distinctive cast-iron arhcitecture, that
even up to the 1960s was considered a slum. Since
then, it has come to signify fashion chic, urbane shop-
ping, and art, and its high-end chains attract hordes of
tourists. It’s a grand place for brunching at an outside
café or poking in and out of chi-chi antique and clothes
shops, and there are a few good galleries to speak of.

The Haughwout Building behind taller columns in this


88–92 Broadway. The magnificent thin sliver of a Venetian-style
1857 Haughwout Building is palace – the first building ever
perhaps the ultimate in the cast- to boast a steam-powered Otis
iron architectural genre. elevator.
Rhythmically repeated motifs of
colonnaded arches are framed The Little Singer Building
561 Broadway. In 1904, Ernest
Flagg took the possibilities of
cast iron to their conclusion in
this office and warehouse for
the sewing machine company, a
twelve-story terracotta design
whose use of wide window
frames pointed the way to the
glass curtain wall of the 1950s.

NoLita
Just east of Broadway and south
of Houston Street, fashion, style,
and nonchalant living have found
fertile breeding ground in the
area referred to as NoLita
(“North of Little Italy”). Every
street is lined with designer
 SOHO STREELIGHT

Cast-iron architecture
SoHo contains one of the largest collections of cast-iron buildings in the world,
erected on these cobblestone streets between 1869 and 1895. Cast-iron archi-
tecture was to assemble buildings quickly and cheaply, with iron beams rather
than heavy walls carrying the weight of the floors. The result was greater space
for windows and remarkably decorative facades. Glorifying SoHo’s sweatshops,
architects indulged themselves in Baroque balustrades, forests of Renaissance
columns, and all the effusion of the French Second Empire. Many fine examples
of cast-iron architecture can be glimpsed along Broadway and Greene Street.

Contents Places
92
boutiques, coffeehouses, and neighborhood food emporia.
restaurants, and it’s not cheap, but Very chic, very SoHo, and not
the young, artsy, and restless who at all cheap.
hang outside the area’s
proliferation of über-trendy spots Henry Lehr
SoHo PLACES

make it an excellent place for a 232 Elizabeth St between Houston and


late-afternoon drink and a spot Prince sts t212/274-9921. A
of beautiful-people watching. shopper’s haven for T-shirts and
a la mode jeans. Swing by as the
Shops season wanes for the best deals.

Ina
555-Soul 21 Prince St between Elizabeth and
290 Lafayette St between Prince and Mott sts t212/334-9048. Favorite
Spring sts t212/431-2404. A must- consignment shop selling recent
visit for hip-hop kids and season cast-offs. Full of bargains;
skateboarders, this store is there’s a men’s branch too.
chockablock full of baggy pants,
hats,T-shirts, and bags for every Kate Spade
B-boy and girl. 454 Broome St at Mercer St
t212/274-1991. Showroom and
Dean and Deluca store for one of the city’s hottest
560 Broadway at Prince St t212/226- accessory gurus – products are
6800. One of the original big preppy but have point of view.
MACDOUGAL STREET

Seize Sur
BE

MULB

Vingt
DF

1
OR

WEST HOUSTON STREET M Mixena


BOW
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MOTT
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2 Moss 3
4
STREE

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5
STREET

ET Pierre 6
BETH
T

TRE 7 8 Garroudi
GS
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9
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LAFAYET

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SULLIVAN STREET

STREE

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MarketPaperie Dean & Push 11


AV E N

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THOMPSON

WOOSTER

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STR
TE
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T

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RLT Building
CROSBY STREET

DAM Language 13 Henry


UE

CHA
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GREENE STREET

VAN
MERCER STREET
SO

MoMA
Don Hill’s

M Lehy
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Design 16
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14 17
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BROADWAY

B R OOME S TR EET Building


CENTRE ST

Gourmet
LAFAY E TTE S TR E ET

Garage 19 N
C 20 21
EET
REET

STR GRAND S TREET


TTS Drawing Ronald Feldman
WA
Center Fine Arts Slingshot
HOLLA Project 66
ND TU M
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L STR
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ACCOMMODATION
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LIS PENAR D S TR EET M 60 Thompson B
0 200 yds Mercer A
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Soho Grand C
TriBeCa
EATING & DRINKING
Aquagrill 14 Dos Caminos 2 Merc Bar 6 Raoul’s 8
Balthazar 16 Fanelli 11 Mercer Kitchen 9 Rialto 1
Bar 89 18 Gitane 10 Once Upon a Tart 7 Spring Street
Blue Ribbon Sushi 15 Kelley & Ping 4 Peasant 12 Natural Restaurant 17
Café Lebowitz 13 L’Ecole 21 Pravda 3 Woo Lae Oak 5
Cendrillon 19 Le Pain Quotidien 20

Contents Places
93
industrial design –
some at
reasonable prices.

Pierre Garroudi

PLACES SoHo
139 Thompson St
between Houston and
Prince sts t212/475-
2333. A limited
design line with
unusual fabrics,
 WINDOW SHOPPING IN SOHO colors, and styles.
Bias-cut dresses, wedding
Kate’s Paperie gowns, and tailored suits go for
561 Broadway between Prince and reasonable prices. All of the
Spring sts t212/941-9816. Any clothes are made on the
kind of paper you can imagine premises, and they can make any
or want, including great item for you overnight.
handmade and exotic paper. If
you can’t find something – ask; Push
they’ll even custom-make 240 Mulberry St between Prince and
stationery for you. Spring sts t212/965-9699. One of
the city’s hippest jewelry stores,
Language where one-of-a-kind items are
238 Mulberry St between Prince and displayed amid breezy
Spring sts t212/431-5566. You surroundings on dollhouse
may have to take out a loan to furniture.
shop at Language, where art,
beauty, and fashion combine to Seize Sur Veinte
stunning effect. A sure bet for 243 Elizabeth St between Houston and
the most original designer labels. Prince sts t212/343-0476.
Boutique known for its
Mixona exquisite hand-tailored shirts.
262 Mott St between Houston and
Prince sts t646/613-0100.
Gorgeous (and expensive) grabs
Galleries
for those with a fetish for
undergarments that are both Artists Space
sexy and functional. 38 Greene St Tues–Sat 11am–6pm
t212/226-3970, Wwww.artists
MoMA Design Store space.org. This video, performance
81 Spring St at Crosby St t646/613- art, architecture, and design space
1367. A trove of designed goods has been a SoHo mainstay for
that range from cheap to over thirty years.
astronomical. Good for
browsing and gift ideas. The Drawing Center
35 Wooster St Tues–Fri 10am–6pm,
Moss Sat 11am–6pm t212/219-2166,
146 Greene St between Houston and Wwww.drawingcenter.org.
Prince sts t212/226-2190. Contemporary and historical
Exceptionally curated gallery- drawing exhibits are the order
boutique selling unusual of the day at this committed
examples of great contemporary nonprofit organization.

Contents Places
94
Once Upon a
Tart
135 Sullivan St
between Houston
and Prince sts
SoHo PLACES

t212/387-8869.
Good for
reasonably
priced light
lunches and
sugar cravings,
and oh so
quaint (and
cramped).
 ELIZABETH STREET

Ronald Feldman Fine Arts Restaurants


31 Mercer St Tues–Sat 10am–6pm
t212/226-3232, Wwww.feldman Aquagrill
gallery.com. Devoted to 210 Spring St at Sixth Ave t212/274-
contemporary work, Feldman 0505. At this accommodating
often focuses on graphic SoHo spot, you’ll find seafood
design. so fresh it’s still flapping.The
excellent raw bar and Sunday
Slingshot Project 66 brunch are not prohibitively
66 Crosby St 11am–7pm Tues–Sat upscale.
t212/343-9694, Wwww.slingshot
project.com. Expect all manner of Balthazar
media from this project, which 80 Spring St between Crosby St and
showcases emerging artists from Broadway t212/965-1414. One of
Paris and New York City. One the hottest reservations in town,
of the city’s most exciting new Balthazar’s tastefully ornate
galleries. Parisian decor and nonstop
beautiful people keep your eyes
busy until the food arrives.Then
Cafés you can savor the fresh oysters and
mussels, the exquisite pastries, and
Gitane everything in between. It’s worth
242 Mott St between Houston and the money and the attitude.
Prince sts t212/334-9552. Come
here to brush up on your French Blue Ribbon Sushi
and settle into a bowl of café au 119 Sullivan St between Prince and
lait. Just make sure your personal Spring sts t212/343-0404. Widely
fashion makes a statement. considered one of the best and
freshest sushi restaurants in New
Le Pain Quotidien York, but its lines can be long
100 Grand St between Greene and and it doesn’t allow reservations.
Mercer sts t212/625-9009. Have some cold sake and relax
Farmhouse tables, giant cafés au – the kitchen is open until 2am.
lait, and rustic accents make for
comfortable and satisfying pick- Café Lebowitz
me-ups during a day of 14 Spring St at Elizabeth St
shopping. t212/219-2399. Cool mid-priced

Contents Places
95
French bistro serving stick-to- restaurant that serves a tasty
your-ribs seasonal risottos ($12) bowl of noodle soup. Dark
and excellent Hungarian wooden cases filled with Thai
goulash ($14.50). herbs and cooking ingredients
add to the casually elegant (and

PLACES SoHo
Cendrillon unusual) setting.
45 Mercer St between Broome and
Grand sts t212/343-9012. This Mercer Kitchen
fine pan-Asian restaurant, run by 99 Prince St at Mercer St in Mercer
a passionate Filipino couple, Hotel t212/966-5454. This hip
serves consistently exceptional basement hangout and eatery
food, such as its vinegary adobo, for hotel guests and scenesters
not to mention creative entices with the casual culinary
cocktails with rare fruit and creations of star chef Jean
spice infusions.The prices are Georges Vongerichten, who
decent, and the desserts will makes ample use of his raw bar
make you swoon. and wood-burning oven.Try the
roasted lamb sandwich ($15).
Dos Caminos
475 W Broadway at Houston St Peasant
t212/277-4300. Thoughtful, real- 194 Elizabeth St between Prince and
deal Mexican served with style Spring sts t212/965-9511. A bit of a
– try the table-side guacamole. hangout after-hours for city chefs,
here you’ll pay around $22–30 for
L’Ecole hearty grilled entrees, such as lamb
462 Broadway at Grand St t212/219- or fish, served from an open
3300. Students of the French kitchen.
Culinary Institute serve up
affordable Gallic delights here – Raoul’s
and they rarely fail.The three- 180 Prince St between Sullivan and
course prix-fixe dinner costs Thompson sts t212/966-3518. This
$29.95 per person; book in sexy French bistro is
advance. Closed Sun. comfortable, authentic, and
entertaining for its people-
Kelley & Ping watching into the night. A
127 Greene St between Prince and beloved New York standby.
Houston sts t212/228-1212. Sleek
pan-Asian tea room and Rialto
265 Elizabeth St between
Houston and Prince sts
t212/334-7900. Serious
home-style American
cooking in unlikely
surroundings – an
elegant room with
curved red leather
banquettes, filled with
beautiful, chic people,
and a refreshing garden
in back. Not as expensive
as the clientele looks
either.
 CAST-IRON FACADES IN SOHO

Contents Places
96
Spring Street Natural modern lounge with soft blue
Restaurant light spilling down over the bar,
62 Spring St at Lafayette St giving the place a trippy, pre-
t212/966-0290. Not wholly dawn feel. Check out the clear
vegetarian, but very good, liquid crystal bathroom doors
SoHo PLACES

freshly prepared health food that go opaque when shut


served in a large airy space. ($10,000 each, reportedly) and
Moderately priced, with entrees the strong, pricey drinks that
from $9 on up.Very popular pay for them.
with locals, but crowds add to
sometimes already slow service. Fanelli’s
94 Prince St at Mercer St t212/226-
Woo Lae Oak 9412. Established in 1872,
148 Mercer St between Prince and Fanelli’s is one of the city’s
Houston sts t212/925-8200. Here, oldest bars, relaxed and informal
succulent Korean BBQ is on and a favorite of the not-too-
order; its grill-your-own meat hip after-work crowd.
mandate makes for a festive
atmosphere. Merc Bar
151 Mercer St between Houston and
Bars Prince sts t212/966-2727. SoHo’s
original cocktail lounge, this
once super-trendy watering
Bar 89 hole has aged nicely.
89 Mercer St between Spring and
Broome sts t212/274-0989. Slick, Pravda
281 Lafayette St between Prince and
Houston sts t212/226-4944. This
chic Russian lounge serves stiff
(and potent) vodka drinks and
hard-boiled eggs for snacking.
Now that its heyday has passed,
there are fewer crowds, hence a
more relaxed vibe.

Clubs and music


venues
Don Hill’s
511 Greenwich St at Spring St
t212/334-1390. Some of the most
sexually diverse parties in the
city happen here, where Brit-
poptastic bands warm up the
crowd before the real stars – the
DJs – take the stage. $10–15.

 NOLITA STORE FRONT

Contents Places
97

The Lower East Side


Historically the epitome of the American ethnic melting
pot, the Lower East Side was home to over a million

PLACES The Lower East Side


Jewish immigrants in the 1920s. While a fair proportion
of its inhabitants today are working-class Latino or
Asian, you are just as likely to find students, moneyed
artsy types, and other refugees from the overly gentri-
fied areas of SoHo and the nearby East Village, a blend
that makes this one of the city’s most enthralling neigh-
borhoods and one of its hippest areas for shopping,
drinking, dancing, and – what else? – food.

Houston Street weekends when filled with stalls


Houston (pronounced and storefronts hawking
“Howston”) Street is a busy discounted designer clothes and
two-lane stretch that runs along bags.The rooms above the stores
the top of the Lower East Side, here used to house sweatshops,
cutting across Manhattan from so named because whatever the
just a few blocks of the Hudson weather, a stove had to be kept
River on the west side of the warm for pressing the clothes
island all the way to the East that were made there. Much of
River. Houston’s eastern reaches the garment industry moved
hold some of the main uptown ages ago, and the rooms
attractions of the Lower East are a bit more salubrious now –
Side, namely places to sample often home to pricey
traditional Jewish foods. apartments.

Orchard Street Lower East Side


The center of the Lower East Tenement Museum
Side’s so-called Bargain District, 90 Orchard St between Broome and
Orchard is best visited on Delancey sts, Mon–Wed & Fri
11am–5.30pm, Thurs
11am–7pm, Sat &
Sun 11am–6pm; $10,
students and seniors
$8 t212/431-0233,
wwww.tenement.org.
This excellent
local museum
offers a glimpse
into the
crumbling,
claustrophobic
interior of an
1863 tenement,
with its
deceptively
elegant, though
 LOWER EAST SIDE TENEMENT MUSEUM ghostly, entry hall

Contents Places
98
EA Tompkins
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The Lower East Side PLACES

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EATING & DRINKING


71 Clinton Fresh Barrio Chino 12 Lansky Lounge Sammy’s
Food 6 Congee Village 9 & Grill 10 Roumanian 5
169 Bar 13 Happy Ending 11 Max Fish 2 Schiller’s 7
Barramundi 4 Katz’s 1 Orchard Bar 3 WD-50 8

and two communal toilets for of the Jewish Lower East Side,
every four families. Guided which extends to the 1903
tours include the Getting By: Williamsburg Bridge to
Weathering the Great Brooklyn. Much of this area has
Depressions of 1873 and 1929 lost the traditional Sunday bustle
Tour (Tues–Fri, every 40 of Jewish market shopping,
minutes from 1–4pm; free with which has been replaced by the
museum admission) and the Saturday afternoon Spanish
kid-friendly Confino Family chatter of the new residents
Apartment Tour (Sat & Sun shopping for records,
hourly noon–3pm; $9, students inexpensive clothes, and
and seniors $7).The museum electrical goods. Nearby Clinton
also offers an hour-long Sunday Street is an unusual
walking tour of the Lower East thoroughfare mixing cheap
Side’s ethnic neighborhoods Latino retailers and fine
(call for times). restaurants, and is in many ways
the central thoroughfare of the
Delancey and Clinton streets Dominican Lower East Side.
Orchard Street bisects Delancey
Street, the lower horizontal axis

Contents Places
99
Essex Street Market Eldridge Street Synagogue
Mon–Sat 8am–6pm. On either side 12 Eldridge St between Canal and
of Delancey Street sprawls the Division sts, tours offered Tues & Thurs
Essex Street Market, erected at 11.30am and 2.30pm; Sun hourly
under the aegis of Mayor 11am–4pm; $5, students and seniors

PLACES The Lower East Side


LaGuardia in the 1930s when $3 t212/219-0888. Constructed in
pushcarts were made illegal 1887, the Eldridge Street
(ostensibly because they clogged Synagogue was in its day one of
the streets, but mainly because the Lower East Side’s jewels. A
they competed with established brick and terracotta hybrid of
businesses). Here, you’ll find all Moorish and Gothic influences,
sorts of fresh fruit, fish, and it was known for its rich
vegetables, along with random woodwork and stained glass
clothing bargains and the windows, including the west
occasional trinket or piece of wing rose window – a
tat. spectacular Star of David
roundel. Concerts are regularly
The Bowery held in this majestic structure;
The western edge of the Lower call the number above for
East Side is marked by the current listings.
Bowery, which runs as far north
as Cooper Square on the edge
of the East Village.The wide
Shops
thoroughfare began its existence
as the city’s main agricultural Guss’ Lower East Side
supplier but was later flanked by Pickles
music halls, vaudeville theaters, 85-87 Orchard St between Broome and
hotels, and middle-market Delancey sts. People line up outside
restaurants, drawing people from this storefront to buy fresh home-
near and far. Something of a made pickles, olives, and other
skid row, today it’s becoming yummy picnic staples from huge
increasingly known for barrels of garlicky brine.
restaurants and supply stores.
Il Laboratorio del Gelato
95 Orchard St at Broome St
t212/343-9922. This new shrine
to cream and sugar serves up
over 75 flavors, and the owner
can be seen making his creative
concoctions in stainless steel
vats.

Kossar’s Bialys
367 Grand St between Essex and
Norfolk sts t212/473-4810. A
generations-old kosher treasure
serves, bar none, the city’s best
bialys, a flattened savory dough
traditionally topped with onion.

Russ & Daughters


179 E Houston St between Allen and
 THE ESSEX STREET MARKET Orchard sts t212/475-4880. The

Contents Places
The Lower East Side PLACES 100

 THE BOWERY

original Manhattan gourmet


shop, sating the appetites of
Restaurants
homesick immigrant Jews,
selling smoked fish, caviar, 71 Clinton Fresh Food
pickled vegetables, cheese, and 71 Clinton St between Rivington and
bagels.This is one of the oldest, Stanton sts t212/614-6960.
set up about 1900, and one of Popular with foodies and
the best. hipsters alike, this pocket-size
spot serves some of the best
Yonah Schimmel Knish gourmet fare in the city.
Bakery
137 E Houston St between 1st and 2nd Congee Village
aves t212/477-2858. This place has 100 Allen St at Delancy St t212/941-
been making and selling some of 1818. Superb Chinese food,
New York’s best knishes since killer cosmos, and private
1910. Quite different to the karaoke rooms all make for a
things you buy from street stalls, guaranteed good time here, and
and well worth trying. it’s reasonably priced to boot.

Contents Places
101
Katz’s WD-50
205 E Houston St at Ludlow St 50 Clinton St between Rivington and
t212/254-2246. Venerable Stanton sts t212/477-2900.
Lower East Side Jewish deli Celebrated chef Wylie
serving archetypal overstuffed DuFresne takes on the

PLACES The Lower East Side


pastrami and corned-beef Surrealists at this new and
sandwiches into the wee hours daring American eatery.Your
of the night. taste buds and wallet may be
challenged but the experience is
Sammy’s Roumanian well worth it.
Steakhouse
157 Chrystie St at Delancey St
t212/673-0330. This basement
Bars
Jewish steakhouse gives diners
more than they bargained for: 169 Bar
schmaltzy songs, delicious-but- 169 E Broadway at Rutgers St
heartburn-inducing food t212/473-8866. This urban
(topped off by home-made hangout features a pool table,
rugalach and egg creams for kicking DJs, and the occasional
dessert), and chilled vodka in live performer.
blocks of ice. Keep track of your
tab, if you can. Barramundi
147 Ludlow St between Stanton and
Schiller’s Rivington sts t212/529-6900. Laid-
131 Rivington St at Norfolk St back bar with a magical, fairy-lit
t212/260-4555. Well-priced garden that provides sanctuary
trendy bistro with beautiful from the increasingly hip
clientele featuring a hodge- surroundings. Come 10pm
podge menu with tuna burgers though, the garden closes and
and good steaks with your you’ve got to move inside.
choice of classic sauces.
Barrio Chino
253 Broome St at Orchard St
t212/228-6710. Don’t be
confused by the Chinese
lanterns or drink umbrellas here
– the owner’s specialty is
tequila, and there are dozens to
choose from. Shots are even
served with the traditional
sangria chaser made from a
blend of tomato, orange, and
lime juices.

Happy Ending
302 Broome St between Eldridge and
Forsythe sts t212/334-9676. This
duplex hotspot milks its
location’s former past as a
massage parlour of ill repute; a
drink in one of its shower stall
nooks might make some feel
 THE ELDRIDGE STREET SYNAGOGUE naughty.

Contents Places
102
wwww.arlene-
grocery.com. This
intimate, erstwhile
bodega hosts free gigs
by local indie talent
The Lower East Side PLACES

during the week.


Monday is
“Punk/Heavy Metal
Karaoke” night, when
you can wail along
(with a live band, no
 SHOPPING ON THE LOWER EAST SIDE
less) to your favorite
Stooges and Led Zeppelin
Lansky Lounge & Grill songs.
104 Norfolk St between Delancey and
Rivington sts t212/677-9489. With The Bowery Ballroom
a hidden, back-alleyway 6 Delancey St at the Bowery
entrance, this former speakeasy t212/533-2111,
was once a haunt of gangster wwww.boweryballroom.com. A
Meyer Lansky. The adjacent minimum of attitude, great
steakhouse serves a succulent sound, and even better sightlines
bone-in rib-eye, but most come make this a local favorite to see
for the drinks. well-known indie-rock bands.
Shows $12–25. Pay in cash at
Max Fish the Mercury Lounge box office
178 Ludlow St between Houston and (see below), at the door, or by
Stanton sts t212/529-3959. Visiting credit card through Ticketweb.
indie rock bands come here in
droves, lured by the The Mercury Lounge
unpretentious but arty vibe and 217 E Houston St between Ludlow and
the jukebox which, quite simply, Essex sts t212/260-4700,
rocks any other party out of wwww.mercuryloungenyc.com. The
town. Cheap beers too. dark, medium-sized, innocuous
space showcases a mix of local,
Orchard Bar national, and international pop
200 Orchard St between Houston and and rock acts. Around $8–15.
Stanton sts t212/673-5350. A Purchase tickets in cash at the
Lower East Side stalwart that box office, at the door, or via
features walls lined with glass Ticketweb.
display cases, filled with nature
and neon lights, cozy recesses to Tonic
whisper in, and some of the 107 Norfolk St between Rivington and
nicest bar staff in town. Delancey sts t212/358-7503,
wwww.tonicnyc.com. This hip
Lower East Side home to
“avant-garde, creative and
Clubs and music experimental music” flourishes
on two levels, with no cover
venues charge to the lower lounge.
Occasional movies and
Arlene’s Grocery Klezmer-accompanied brunch
95 Stanton St between Ludlow and on Sundays. Cover charge is
Orchard sts t212/358-1633, $8–12.

Contents Places
103

The East Village


Once a solidly working class refuge of immigrants, the
East Village, ranging east of Broadway to Avenue D

PLACES The East Village


between Houston and 14th streets, became home to
New York’s nonconformist intelligentsia in the early part
of the twentieth century and formed part of its gritty
core up into the Eighties. During the Nineties, escalating
rents forced many people out, but it remains one of
downtown Manhattan’s most vibrant neighborhoods,
with boutiques, thrift stores, record shops, bars, and
restaurants, populated by a mix of old-world Ukrainians,
students, punks, artists, and burn-outs.

Astor Place conducted business, while the


Astor Place marks the western balancing steel cube (1967) by
fringe of the East Village, and Bernard Rosenthal dominates the
before the Civil War, it was one center of the intersection.
of the city’s most desirable
addresses. One of New York’s Merchant’s House Museum
greediest moneymakers – John 29 E 4th St between Lafayette St and
Jacob Astor himself – lived on the Bowery Thurs–Mon 1–5pm $6,
Lafayette Street in the 1830s, and students and seniors $4 t212/777-
the replicated old-fashioned kiosk 1089, wwww.merchantshouse.com.
of the Astor Place subway station Constructed in 1832, this fine
depicts beavers on the colored Federalist building is a
mosaic reliefs of its platforms, nineteenth-century family home
recalling Astor’s first big killings – whose interior and exterior
in the fur trade.The grounds have been preserved as a
unmistakeable orange-brick Astor museum.The magnificent
Building with arched windows is interior contains the genuine
where John Jacob Astor III property, including furniture

 EAST VILLAGE COMMUNITY GARDEN

Contents Places
104
fashioned by New York’s best
cabinetmakers of the day, and
personal possessions of the
house’s original inhabitants.
Weekend tours are led by
The East Village PLACES

enthusiastic volunteers, yet you


can amble through the five floors
of sumptuous surroundings alone
– just don’t miss the perfectly
manicured garden behind.

The Cooper Union


Cooper Square t212/353-4100.
Erected in 1859 by wealthy
industrialist Peter Cooper as a
college for the poor, it’s best  GRACE CHURCH

Union EAST 16TH STREET


SECOND AVENUE

Square
IR VING PLAC E

Park
EAST 15TH STREET

M M M M
BRO

THIRD AVENUE

1
FIRST AVENUE

EAST 13TH STREET


AD

FOU
WA

Kiehl’s
Y

RTH

EAST 12TH STREET


AVE

St. Mark’s-in-
NUE

EAST 11TH STREET


the-Bowery 2
Grace
Church St Mark’s
EAST 10TH STREET
Bookshop T .
East Village S 5
4
6
Cheese Store T
S AN EAST 9TH STREET
VE 7
COOPER UY 8
SQUARE ST 9 Trash ’n’ 10
12
M M Vaudeville S T. M A R K S P L A C E
PL. 11 12
OR 13
AST Cooper 16 Pyramid Club
Astor Place 14 15
Hair Designers Union Love Saves E A S T
WAVERLY PLACE the Day
Joe’s Pub 19
Public Theater E A S T
SECOND AVENUE

20
21
FIRST AVENUE

22
EAST 5TH STREET
Other Music
24
25
Merchant’s
STREET

4TH 26 27
STREET
Screaming House EAST
Mimi’s Museum
28
B R O A D WAY

G R E AT J O N E S
S T. EAST
S T R E E T

L A FAY E T T E

BOW

31 30
BOND STREET CBGB and
OMFUG 315
ERY

E A S T
Bowery
M E R C E R

32 33 34
ELIZAB

M E A S T 1 S T S T R E E T
MOTT

Bowery
35 Poetry Club
ETH ST

LUDLOW ST
STREET

ALLEN ST.

M
REET

M
.

TA N
Contents Places
105
known as the place where, in Grace Church
1860, Abraham Lincoln wowed Broadway and East 10th St t212/254-
an audience of top New Yorkers 2000. The lacy marble of Grace
with his so-called “might makes was built and designed in 1846
right” speech, in which he by James Renwick (of St

PLACES The East Village


boldly criticized the pro-slavery Patrick’s Cathedral fame) in a
policies of the Southern states – delicate Neo-Gothic style. Dark
an event that helped propel him and aisled, with a flattened,
to the White House later that web-vaulted ceiling, it was
year.Today, Cooper Union is a something of a society church
working and prestigious art and in its day – and is nowadays one
architecture school, whose of the city’s most secretive
nineteenth-century glory is escapes, and frequently offers
evoked with a statue of the shelter to the less fortunate.
benevolent Cooper just in front.

N E . 1 6 T H S T. EATING & DRINKING


7B 18
Ace Bar 23
EAST 15TH STREET Angel’s Share 9
B & H Dairy 13
Blue Goose 20
EAST 14TH STREET BondSt 31
Brick Lane Curry House East19
Burp Castle River
15
Chez Es Saada 32
F R

d.b.a. 30
Decibel 7
A N
D
C
B
A

Dok Suni 16
First 25
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E

K L I N

Holiday Cocktail Lounge 11


Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar 24
Jules 10
KGB 27
3
D .

Lakeside Lounge 3
EAST 10TH STREET Mama’s Food Shop 29
Charlie Parker’s McSorley’s Old Ale House 14
R O O S E V E L

House
EAST 9TH STREET Mermaid Inn 21
Tompkins Podunk Café 22
Square Prune 33
Park EAST 8TH STREET SEA Thai 26
Second Avenue Deli 5
17 Shabu Tatsu 4
7 T H S T R E E T ALPHABET CITY St Dymphna’s 12
18 Standard 6
AV ENUE

Star Foods 34
D R

6 T H S T R E E T
6BC Botanical Temple Bar 35
Garden Thé Adoré 1
23
I V

Time Café 28
EAST 5TH STREET
6B Garden Veniero’s 2
E

Veselka 8
B

C
A

Zum Schneider 17
AV ENUE
A V E N U E
A V E N U E

4TH STREET

3RD STREET
29
NuYorican
Poets Café
BARUC
CO LU M BI

2 N D S T R E E T
ET
OUSTO N STRE
H DR.

EAST H
PIT T ST RE
RID GE ST RE

Hamilton
A ST.
AT TO RN EY
CLINTON ST
SUFFOLK ST.

Fish Park
NORFOLK

ST.
ESSEX ST.

0 500 yds
ST.

ET
ET
.

LOWER EAST SIDE


REET
NTON ST
Contents Places
106
St Mark’s Place At 151 Avenue B, on the
The East Village’s main drag, St eastern side of the park, is
Mark’s Place stretches east from famous saxophonist and
Cooper Union to Tompkins composer Charlie Parker’s house,
Square Park. On one block a simple whitewashed 1849
The East Village PLACES

between Seventh and Ninth structure with a Gothic doorway.


streets and Second and Third The Bird lived here from 1950
avenues, independent book and until 1954, when he died of a
discount record stores compete pneumonia-related hemorrhage.
for space with hippy-chic
clothiers,T-shirt shops, and fast- Alphabet City
food chains.With gentrification, Named for the grid of avenues
the street’s once-vivid aura of named A–D, where the island
cool has all but disappeared. bulges out beyond the city’s grid
structure, Alphabet City was not
St Mark’s Church long ago a notoriously unsafe
in-the-Bowery patch, with burnt-out buildings
131 East 10th St at 2nd Ave that were well-known safehouses
t212/674-0910. The oldest for the brisk heroin trade. Now
church in continuous use in the it’s one of the most dramatically
city, this box-like Episcopalian revitalized areas of Manhattan:
edifice was originally built in crime is down, many of the
1799 but sports a Neoclassical vacants lots have been made into
portico added half a century community gardens, and the
later. It was home to Beat poetry streets have become the haunt of
readings in the 1950s, and in the moneyed twenty-somethings
1960s the St Mark’s Poetry and daring tourist youth. Only
Project was founded here to Avenue D might still give you
ignite artistic and social change. some pause; the other avenues
Today, it remains an important have some of the coolest bars,
literary rendezvous, with regular cafés, and stores in the city.
readings, dance performances,
and music recitals. Shops
Tompkins Square Park
Fringed by avenues A and B and Astor Place Hair Designers
East Seventh and Tenth streets, 2 Astor Place between Broadway and
Tompkins Square Park was one Lafayette St t212/475-9854. Locals
of the city’s great
centers for
political protest
and homes of
radical thought. In
the Sixties, regular
demonstrations
were organized
here, and during
the 1980s, the
park was more or
less a shantytown
until the homeless
were kicked out
in 1991.  STRAND BOOKSTORE

Contents Places
107
and visitors line up six deep 2.5 million+, this is the largest
here for any and all kinds of book operation in the city.
cuts; $15 and up. Recent review copies and new
books show up at half price;
East Village older books are from 50¢ up.

PLACES The East Village


Cheese Store
40 3rd Ave between E 9th and 10th sts Trash ’n’ Vaudeville
t 212/477-2601. The city’s most 4 St Mark’s Place between 2nd and 3rd
affordable source for cheese; its aves t212/982-3590. Great clothes,
front-of-the-store bins sell new and “antique,” in the true
pungent blocks and wedges of East Village spirit, including
the stuff starting at just 50c. classic lace-up muscle shirts.

Kiehl’s
109 3rd Ave between E 13th and 14th Cafés
sts t212/677-3171. An exclusive
150-year-old pharmacy that sells Thé Adoré
its own range of natural 17 E 13th St, between 5th Ave and
ingredient-based classic creams University Place T212/243-8742.
and oils. Charming little tearoom with
excellent pastries, Japanese
Love Saves the Day scones, and croissants. Daytime
119 2nd Ave at E 7th St t212/228- hours only; closed Sundays
3802. Fairly cheap vintage as well
as classic lunchboxes and other Podunk Café
kitschy nostalgia items, including 231 E 5th St between 2nd Ave and
valuable Kiss and Star Wars dolls. Cooper Square t212/677-7722. The
desserts at this warm and fuzzy
Other Music bakery-café have been known
15 E 4th St between Broadway and to bring some to tears; scones,
Lafayette St t212/477-8150. This savory quiches, and chewy,
excellent small shop has perhaps unbelievably delicious coconut
the most engaging and curious bars are all good bets.
indie-rock and avant-garde
collection in the city. Records Veniero’s
here are divided into categories 342 E 11th St between 1st and 2nd
like “In,” “Out,” and “Then.” aves t212/674-7070. A beloved
East Village institution, tempting
Screaming Mimi’s the neighborhood with
382 Lafayette St at E 4th St heavenly pastries since 1894.
t212/677-6464. One of the
most established vintage stores
in Manhattan, Screaming
Restaurants
Mimi’s offers clothes (including
lingerie), bags, shoes, and B & H Dairy
housewares at reasonable 127 2nd Ave between E 7th St and St
prices. Mark’s Place t212/505-8065.
Good veggie choice, this tiny
Strand Bookstore luncheonette serves homemade
828 Broadway at E 12th St t212/473- soup, challah, and latkes.You can
1452, wwww.strand also create your own juice
books.com.With about eight combination to stay or go.
miles of books and a stock of

Contents Places
108
BondSt First
6 Bond St, between Broadway and 87 1st Ave between E 5th and 6th sts
Lafayette T 212/777-2500. Steeply t212/674-3823. Sophisticated East
priced, very hip multileveled, Village spot serving innovative
Japanese restaurant.The sushi is combinations of New American
The East Village PLACES

amazing, the miso-glazed sea bass fare, like tuna steak au poivre and
exquisite, and the steak a treat. double-thick pork chops.
Moderately priced – entrees
Brick Lane Curry House average about $18, but there is a
343 E 6th St between 1st and 2nd aves cheaper “anytime” menu.
t212/979-2900. Hands-down the
best Indian in the East Village Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar
thanks to its expanded selection 246 E 5th St between 2nd and 3rd aves
of traditional favorites, which t212/673-0338. De-constructed
include fiery phaal curries. dishes, such as savory octopus
spread and aphrodisiacal oysters
Chez Es Saada plates, and a twelve-seat silver-
42 E 1st St between 1st and 2nd sts accented dining room make this
t212/777-5617. The decor eatery in an old carriage house
evokes visions of Tangiers, while an intimate and full-on romantic
rose petals line the stairs.The experience.
expensive menu is a mix of
French and Moroccan fare, and Jules
the bar hops with nightly DJs 65 St Mark’s Place between 1st and
pulling in the black-clad crew – 2nd aves t212/477-5560.
it’s worth it to get a drink and Comfortable and authentic
an appetizer and take it all in. French restaurant, a rarity in the
East Village, serving up
Dok Suni moderately priced bistro fare
119 1st Ave between E 5th St and St and a good-value brunch on
Mark’s Place t212/477-9506. Hip weekends.
around the edges with great
prices to boot, this is an excellent Mama’s Food Shop
bet for Korean cuisine.The only 200 E 3rd St between aves A and B
real drawback is its metal t212/777-4425. Whopping
chopsticks that retain heat and portions of tasty and cheap-as-
make for slippery eating utensils. all-get-out “home cooking.”

 SIXTH STREET

Contents Places
109
Specialties include meatloaf,
macaroni and cheese, and a good
selection of roasted vegetables.

Mermaid Inn

PLACES The East Village


96 2nd Ave between E 5th and 6th sts
t212/674-5870. Serious
seafooder serving simple and
fresh dishes in a Maine
boathouse atmosphere.There’s
an excellent raw bar, and
specials change daily depending
on the catch.

Prune
54 E 1st St between 1st and 2nd aves
t212/677-6221. Cramped, yet  THE VILLAGE VOICE

adventurous and full of


surprises, this East Village a combination of marinated
Mediterranean restaurant meat or seafood platters, and
delivers one of the city’s most have them grilled or boiled
exciting dining experiences, right at your table.
serving dishes such as
sweetbreads wrapped in bacon, Star Foods
seared sea bass with Berber 64 E 1st St at 1st Ave t212/260-
spices, and buttermilk ice cream 3189. Popular, buzzing spot
with pistachio puff pastry. serving Southern grub served
with an indie flair. Specialties
SEA Thai include mussels in Lone Star
75 2nd Ave between E 4th and 5th sts beer broth ($10), chicken fried
t212/228-5505. This high-energy, steak ($14), and spare ribs ($16).
subterranean Thai restaurant
flaunts fab food at killer prices. Time Café
Try the SEA caesar salad ($3), 380 Lafayette St between Great Jones
patpong green curry with and E 4th sts t212/533-7000.
shrimp ($8), or the pad thai Happening restaurant with a
($8). reasonably priced eclectic
California-Southwestern menu
Second Avenue Deli and a large outdoor seating area
156 2nd Ave between E 9th and 10th sts perfectly positioned for people-
t212/677-0606. An East Village watching. Downstairs the Fez
institution, serving up marvelous lounge offers poetry readings,
burgers, hearty pastrami live jazz, and periodic campy
sandwiches, matzoh ball soup, and 1970s music revues.
other deli goodies in ebullient,
snap-happy style – and not nearly Veselka
as cheap as you’d think. 144 2nd Ave, corner of E 9th St
t212/228-9682. East Village
Shabu Tatsu institution that offers fine
216 E 10th St between 1st and 2nd homemade hot borscht (and
aves t212/477-2972. This place cold in summer), latkes,
offers great and moderately pierogies, and great burgers and
priced Korean barbecue. Choose fries. Open 24 hours.

Contents Places
110
Bars Decibel
240 E 9th St between 2nd and 3rd
aves t212/979-2733. A rocking
7B atmosphere (with good tunes)
108 Ave B at E 7th St t212/473-8840. envelops the great, beautifully
The East Village PLACES

Quintessential East Village hang- decorated underground sake bar.


out that has often been used as a The inevitable wait for a
sleazy set in films and com- wooden table will be worth it,
mercials. It features deliberately guaranteed.
mental bartenders, strong, cheap
booze, and one of the best punk Holiday Cocktail Lounge
jukeboxes in the Village. 75 St Mark’s Place between 2nd and
3rd aves t212/777-9637.
Ace Bar Unabashed dive with a mixed
531 E 5th St between aves A and B bag of customers, from old-
t212/979-8476. Behind the world grandfathers to the
architectural glass brick is a younger set, and a bona-fide
noisy and strangely cavernous character tending bar (more or
neighborhood bar, with pool less). Good place for an
table, darts, pinball machines, afternoon beer. Closes early.
and an amazing collection of
childhood lunch boxes. An KGB
alternative rock jukebox 85 E 4th St at 2nd Ave t212/505-
augments the East Village feel. 3360. A dark bar on the second
floor, which claims to have been
Angel’s Share the HQ of the Ukrainian
8 Stuyvesant St between E 9th St and Communist party in the 1930s
3rd Ave t212/777-5415. This tiny but is better known now for its
haven, where serene Japanese bar- marquee literary readings.
tenders serve the most exquisite
martinis in Manhattan, was once Lakeside Lounge
the city’s best-kept secret.Then it 162 Ave B between E 10th and 11th
was discovered by the masses, but sts t212/529-8463. Opened by a
it is well worth the wait. local DJ and a record producer,
who have stocked the jukebox
Burp Castle with old rock, country, and
41 E 7th St between 2nd and 3rd aves R&B. A down-home hangout
t212/982-4756. The bartenders with live music.
wear monks’ habits, choral
music is piped in, and you are McSorley’s Old Ale House
encouraged to speak in tones 15 E 7th St between 2nd and 3rd aves
below a whisper. Oh, and there t212/472-9148. Yes, it’s often full
are over 550 different types of of local frat boys, but you’ll be
beer. drinking in history here at this
cheap, landmark bar that served
d.b.a. its first beer in 1854.Today, it
41 1st Ave between E 2nd and 3rd sts only pours its own ale.
t212/475-5097. A beer lover’s
paradise, d.b.a. has at least sixty St Dymphna’s
bottled beers, fourteen brews on 118 St Marks Place between 1st Ave
tap, and an authentic hand and Ave A t212/254-6636. A
pump. Garden seating is tempting menu and some of the
available in the summer. city’s best Guinness make this

Contents Places
111
snug Irish watering-hole a
favorite among young East
Villagers.

Standard

PLACES The East Village


158 1st Ave between E 9 and 10th sts
t212/387-0239. Tiny, narrow
lounge that glows green onto
the street at night – obey your
impulse and venture inside,
where you’ll find a few stylish
loungers, somewhat pricey
drinks, and a DJ spinning laid-
back tunes.

Zum Schneider
107-109 Ave C at E 7th St t212/598-
1098. A German beer hall (and
indoor garden) with a mega-list
of brews from the Fatherland,  WINDOW DISPLAY IN THE EAST VILLAGE

and wursts too.


array of musical, cabaret, and
dramatic performances. Shows
Clubs and music nightly at 7/7.30pm, 9.30pm,
venues and 11pm, and star spottings
abound. Cover ranges from $7
to $50 depending on the
Bowery Poetry Club performer.
308 Bowery at Bleeker St t212/614-
0505, wwww.bowerypoetry.com. NuYorican Poet’s Café
Terrifically welcoming lit joint 236 E 3rd St between aves B and C
featuring Urbana Poetry Slam t212/505–8183, wwww.nuyorican
every Thursday night at 7pm; .org. The godfather of all slam
$5.This event is dedicated to venues often features stars of the
showcasing the city’s most poetry world who pop in
innovative voices in poetry. unannounced. SlamOpen on
Wednesdays (except the first
CBGB and OMFUG Wednesday of every month) and
315 Bowery at Bleecker St t212/982- the Friday Night Slam both cost
4052, wwww.cbgb.com. This $5 and are highly
legendary punk/art noise recommended.
bastion has seen far better days.
Run-of-the-mill rock bands Pyramid Club
crowd today’s bills, often five or 101 Ave A between E 6th and 7th sts
six acts playing a night starting T212/228-4888. This small
at 7 or 8pm. $10 average. colorful club has been an East
Village stand-by for years.
Joe’s Pub Wednesdays feature an open-
Public Theater, 425 Lafayette St, mike music competition,
between Astor Place and E 4th St Thursdays are New Wave, but it’s
T212/539-8770. The word “pub” the insanely popular 1984 Dance
is a misnomer for this swanky Party on Fridays that is not to be
nightspot that features a vast missed ($8). Cover $5 average.

Contents Places
112

Greenwich Village
For many visitors, Greenwich Village – or simply “the
Village” – is the most-loved neighborhood in New York.
Greenwich Village PLACES

Bound by Fourteenth Street to the north, Houston Street


to the south, the Hudson River to the west, and
Broadway to the east, it sports refined Federal and Greek
Revival townhouses, a busy late-night streetlife, cozy
restaurants, and bars and cafés cluttering every corner –
many of the attractions that first brought bohemians here
around the start of World War I. The area proved fertile
ground for struggling artists and intellectuals, attracted
by the area’s cheap rents and growing community of
free-thinking residents, and a rebellious fervor soon per-
meated the Village. It was here that progressive New
Yorkers gave birth to the Beats, unorthodox happenings,
and the burgeoning gay rights movement, while the
neighborhood’s off-Broadway theaters, cafés, and literary
and folk clubs came to define Village life.

Washington Square Park commemorating the centenary of


Many would argue that there’s no George Washington’s
better square in the city than this, inauguration. During the 1960s,
the natural heart of the Village. 1970s, and 1980s, the park was
Washington Square Park is not home to many impassioned
exactly elegant, though it does protests, which have encompassed
retain its northern edging of such major hot-button issues as
redbrick row houses – the “solid, the Vietnam War, the women’s
honorable dwellings” of Henry liberation movement, and AIDS.
James’s novel, Washington Square – These days, when the weather
and Stanford White’s imposing gets warm, the park becomes a
1892 Triumphal Arch, sports field, performance space,

 TRIUMPHAL ARCH, WASHINGTON SQUARE PARK

Contents Places
113
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PLACES Greenwich Village


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EATING & DRINKING Corner Bistro 4 Home 27 Pearl Oyster Bar 25


Babbo 20 Cubby Hole 5 John’s Pizzeria 26 The Pink Teacup 19
Blind Tiger Ale House 17 Doma 8 Le Figaro 28 Rhône 2
Blue Hill 22 Duplex 15 Magnolia Bakery 9 Stonewall 16
Café de Bruxelles 3 Florent 1 Mary’s Fish Camp 13 Tortilla Flats 6
Café dell’Artista 10 Gotham Bar The Monster 18 Wallse 12
Chez Brigitte 7 & Grill 14 Otto Enoteca & White Horse Tavern 11
Chumley’s 21 Grange Hall 24 Pizzeria 23

chess tournament, and social club, Bleecker Street


feverish with life as street Cutting across from the Bowery
entertainers strum, skateboards to Hudson Street, Bleecker
flip, and the pulsing bass of hip- Street, with its touristy
hop resounds above the concentration of shops, bars,
whispered offers of the few people, and restaurants, is to
surviving dope peddlers (more some extent the Main Street of
likely to be undercover cops than the Village. It has all the best
dealers). reasons you come to this part of

Contents Places
114
town: all-day cafés, late-night Village addresses – Edna St
bars, cheap record stores, Vincent Millay, the young poet
traditional bakeries and food and playwright, Cary Grant,
shops, and the occasional good and John Barrymore all lived at
restaurant or pizzeria. no. 751/2 – said to be the
Greenwich Village PLACES

narrowest house in the city,


Church of St Luke’s nine feet wide and topped with
-in-the-Fields a tiny gable. Built in 1799, the
487 Hudson St. The founding clapboard structure next-door
pastor of this 1820 Federal-style claims to be the oldest house in
Episcopal church was none the Village. On Grove Street,
other than Clement Clarke look out for Marie’s Crisis at
Moore, scholar and author of no. 59. Now a gay bar, it was
“Twas the night before once home to Thomas Paine,
Christmas.”These days, the English by birth but perhaps
church is very active in AIDS- the most important and radical
outreach work and hosts a thinker of the American
festive gay pride evensong Revolutionary era, and from
celebration. Be sure to look whose Crisis Papers the café
behind the church for St Luke’s takes its name.
Gardens, a labyrinthine
patchwork of garden, grass, and Sheridan Square
benches open to the public. Named after General Sheridan,
cavalry commander in the Civil
Grove and Bedford streets War, this hazardous meeting of
Bedford Street is one of the several busy streets holds a
quietest and most desirable pompous-looking statue to his
memory, but, more importantly,
is home of the Stonewall Inn gay
bar (see p.119). In 1969, a police
raid here precipitated a siege
that lasted the best part of an
hour; if not a victory for gay
rights, it was the first time that
gay men had stood up to the
police en masse, and as such
represents a turning point in the
struggle for equal rights. Every
year on the last Sunday in June,
it is remembered by Gay Pride
March, arguably the city’s most
exciting – and certainly its most
colorful – parade.

Christopher Street
The Village’s main gay artery
runs from Sixth Avenue to West
Street passing many a gay bar,
designer boutique, and café.The
lively street’s weekend cruise
scene is still strong, although the
domain is by no means as
 JEFFERSON MARKET COURTHOUSE exclusively gay as it once was; all

Contents Places
115

PLACES Greenwich Village


 SEX TOYS ON CHRISTOPHER STREET

walks of life and gender Church), the Church of the


preferences now lay claim to Ascension was later redecorated
Christopher Street’s charms. by Stanford White. Duck inside
to see the gracefully toned La
Jefferson Market Courthouse Farge altar painting and some
and Patchin Place fine stained glass on view.
W 10th St and 6th Ave. Known for
its unmistakeable clock tower, Forbes Magazine Galleries
the nineteenth-century 62 5th Ave at W 12th St; Tues, Wed,
Jefferson Market Courthouse is Fri, & Sat 10am–4pm free, t212/206-
an imposing High 5548. One of the city’s best
Victorian–style edifice, small museums, the Forbes
complete with gargoyles, which Magazine Galleries contains a
first served as an indoor market treasure trove of tiny delights,
but went on to be a firehouse, including 500 model boats and
jail, and finally a women’s a ten-thousand-strong host of
detention center before tin soldiers from various armies.
enjoying its current incarnation Also on view are early
as a public library. Adjacent to it Monopoly boards and plenty of
and opening onto West 10th historical documents, including
Street, Patchin Place is a tiny past papers of presidents. At the
mews constructed in 1848, time of writing the gallery was
whose neat rowhouses were negotiating the sale of its
home to the reclusive Djuna collection of Fabergé eggs to
Barnes for more than forty support publication of the
years. Patchin Place has also family magazine, and it’s unclear
been home to e.e. cummings, how many will remain.
Marlon Brando, Ezra Pound,
and Eugene O’Neill.

Church of the Ascension


Shops
5th Ave and W 10th St. A small, C.O. Bigelow Pharmacy
restored structure originally 414 6th Ave between W 8th and 9th
built in 1841 by Richard sts t212/533-2700. Established in
Upjohn (architect of Trinity 1882, this is the oldest

Contents Places
116
apothecary in the
country – and that’s
exactly how it looks,
with the original
Victorian shop-
Greenwich Village PLACES

fittings still in place.


Specializes in
homeopathic
remedies.

Generation Records  VILLAGE CIGARS


210 Thompson St between
Bleecker and W 3rd sts t212/254- a treat. Sample the wares or pick
1100. The focus here is on up a pungent sandwich.
hardcore, metal, and punk, with
some indie rock thrown in. Oscar Wilde Memorial
New CDs and vinyl are upstairs, Bookshop
while the used records can be 15 Christopher St between Gay St and
found below. Waverly Place t212/255-8097.
Well-situated gay and lesbian
House of Oldies bookstore – probably the first in
35 Carmine St between Bleecker St the city – with extensive rare
and 6th Ave t212/243-0500. Just book collection, signed and first
what the name says – oldies but editions, and framed signed
goodies of all kinds.Vinyl only. letters from authors, including
Edward Albee, Gertrude Stein,
Li-Lac and Tennessee Williams.
120 Christopher St between Bedford
and Bleecker sts t212/242-7374. Three Lives & Co
Delicious chocolates that have 154 W 10th St between Waverly Place
been handmade on the premises and W 4th St t212/741-2069.
since 1923, including fresh Excellent literary bookstore that
fudge and hand-molded has an especially good selection
Liberties and Empire States. of books by and for women, as
well as general titles.
Murray’s Cheese Shop
257 Bleecker St at Cornelia St Village Chess Shop
t212/243-3289. The exuberant 230 Thompson St between W 3rd and
and entertaining staff make any Bleecker sts t212/475-8130. Every
visit to this cheese-lovers’ mecca kind of chess set for every kind
of pocket.
Usually packed
with people
playing. Open
daily noon–
midnight.

Village Comics
214 Sullivan St
between W 3rd and
Bleecker sts
t212/777-2770.
 BABBO
Old and new

Contents Places
117
books, limited editions, trading
cards, and action figures fill the
store, occasionally graced by
celebrity appearances.

PLACES Greenwich Village


Cafés
Café dell’Artista
46 Greenwich Ave between 6th and
7th aves t212/645-4431. Around
since forever, this quiet, second-
floor café offers comfy chairs,
all manner of drinks and
desserts, and in the winter, a  TORTILLA FLATS

fireplace to warm away the


chill. liver ravioli – they’re worth the
pinch on your wallet.
Doma
17 Perry St at 7th Ave t212/929- Blue Hill
4339. A corner window, good 75 Washington Place between 6th Ave
brews, and linger-all-day vibe and Washington Square Park
make this a new neighborhood t212/539-1776. Tucked into a
favorite; it’s the anti-Starbucks. brownstone just steps from the
park, this “adult” restaurant has
Le Figaro earned countless accolades in
184 Bleecker St at MacDougal St recent years for its superb
t212/677-1100. Made famous by seasonal menu of American
the Beat writers in the 1950s, Le dishes served with flair.
Figaro is always thronged
throughout the day; it’s still Café de Bruxelles
worth the price of a cappuccino 118 Greenwich Ave at W 13th St
to people-watch. t212/206-1830. Taste the city’s
most delicious frites (served with
Magnolia Bakery homemade mayo) and mussels
401 Bleeker St at W 11th St at this Belgian family-run
t212/462-2572. You may have to restaurant. Its zinc bar, the oldest
elbow a model for a cupcake at around, is ideal for its nice
this trendy grandma’s kitchen- selection of Belgian beers.
style bakery, but it’s worth the
fight. Even better, try a slice of Chez Brigitte
the hummingbird cake. 77 Greenwich Ave between Bank and
W 11th sts t212/929-6736. Only a
Restaurants dozen people fit in this tiny
restaurant, which serves stews,
all-day roast meat dinners for
Babbo under $10, and other bargains
110 Waverly Place between MacDougal from a simple menu.
St and 6th Ave t212/777-0303. For
some of the best pasta in the Corner Bistro
city, this Mario Batali mecca for 331 W 4th St at Jane St t212/242-
Italian food-lovers is a must.Try 9502. This down-home tavern
the mint love letters or goose serves some of the best burgers

Contents Places
118
and fries in town. An excellent restaurant that serves some of
place to unwind and refuel in a the city’s best and most popular
friendly neighborhood pizza, with a crust that is thin
atmosphere, it’s also a and coal-charred.
longstanding literary haunt; can
Greenwich Village PLACES

get quite crowded. Mary’s Fish Camp


64 Charles St at W 4th St t646/486-
Florent 2185. Lobster rolls, bouillabaisse,
69 Gansevoort St, between Washington and seasonal veggies adorn the
and Greenwich sts T 212/989-5779. menu at this intimate spot,
A fashionable eatery in the where you can almost smell the
heart of the Meatpacking salt air. Go early, as the
District, Florent serves great reservation line lasts into the
moderate-to-pricey French night.
bistro fare. Evelyn’s goat cheese
salad or the mussels are always Otto Enoteca and Pizzeria
good bets. 1 5th Ave at Washington Square N
t212/995-9559. One of the
Grange Hall newest (and cheapest) additions
50 Commerce St at Barrow St to Italian chef Mario Batali’s
t212/924-5246. Hiding on a restaurant empire is a popular
dead-end picturesque street, this pizza and antipasti joint with a
popular feel-good restaurant superb wine list and a beautiful
features healthful and toothsome crowd.The acoustics aren’t great,
dishes at reasonable prices. Be but the atmosphere is festive and
sure to make a reservation. you can’t beat the lardo (lard)
and vongole (clam) pizza.
Gotham Bar & Grill
12 E 12th St, between 5th Ave and Pearl Oyster Bar
University Place t212/620-4020. 18 Cornelia St between Bleecker and W
One of the city’s best 4th sts t212/691-8211. You may
restaurants, the Gotham features have to fight for a table here at
marvelous American fare; at this recently expanded local
very least, it’s worth a drink at favorite, but it’s worth it for the
the bar to see the city’s thoughtfully executed seafood
beautiful people drift in. dishes – and you won’t “shell”
out as much as you might expect.
Home
20 Cornelia St between Bleecker and The Pink Teacup
W 4th sts t212/243-9579. One of 42 Grove St between Bleecker and
those rare restaurants that Bedford sts t212/807-6755.
manages to pull off quaint and Longstanding Southern soul
cozy with flair.The creative and food institution in the heart of
reasonably priced American the Village, with good
food is always fresh and smothered pork chops,
wonderful, perhaps a better deal cornbread, and the like. Brunch
at lunch than dinner.Try the too, but no credit cards.
spice-crusted pork chops ($17).
Tortilla Flats
John’s Pizzeria 767 Washington St at W 12th St
278 Bleecker St between 6th and 7th .
T212/243-1053 Cheap West
aves t212/243-1680. No slices, no Village Mexican dive with great
takeaways at this full-service margaritas, a loud sound system,

Contents Places
119
and plenty of kitsch. Be careful, piano bar/cabaret elevates gay
gets really crowded. bar culture to a new level. A fun
place for anyone, gay or straight,
Wallse to stop for a tipple.
344 W 11th St at Washington St

PLACES Greenwich Village


t212/352-2300. Newfangled The Monster
Austrian fare takes center stage 80 Grove St between Waverly Place
here.The uniquely crafted menu and W 4th St t212/924-3557.
features light-as-air schnitzel, Large, campy bar with drag
frothy reisling sauces, and strudels cabaret, piano, and downstairs
good enough to make an Austrian dance floor.Very popular,
grandma sing with pride.The especially with tourists, yet has a
wine list tempts with some hard- strong neighborhood feel.
to-find Austrian vintages.
Rhône
63 Gansevoort St between Washington
Bars and Greenwich sts t212/367-8440.
As the name implies, this large,
Blind Tiger Ale House well-designed, sexy lounge
518 Hudson St at W 10th St serves red and white wines from
t212/675-3848. You could easily the Rhone Valley. It’s a little too
leave here with things looking a popular for its own good,
bit foggy after you choose from though, as the place can get very
the 24 beers on tap and eclectic crowded on weekend nights.
bottled selection. Come on
Sunday between 1pm and 6pm Stonewall Inn
for the free brunch of bagels 53 Christopher St between 7th Ave and
and cream cheese with Waverly Place t212/463-0950.
complimentary newspapers. Worth ducking in for a drink
just for its history alone.
Chumley’s
86 Bedford St between Grove and
Barrow sts t212/675-4449. It’s not
easy to find this former
speakeasy, owing to its
unmarked entrance, but it’s
worth the effort – offering up a
good choice of beers and food,
both reasonably priced.

Cubby Hole
281 W 12th St at W 4th St t212/243-
9041. This pocket-size lesbian
bar is warm and welcoming,
with a busy festive atmosphere,
loads of decorations that dangle
from the ceiling, and
unpretentious clientele.

Duplex
61 Christopher St at 7th Ave S
t212/255-5438. A neighborhood
institution, this entertaining  THE BLUE NOTE

Contents Places
120
and funk from 10pm to
3.30am. No cover; one-drink
minimum.

The Blue Note


Greenwich Village PLACES

131 W 3rd St T 212 475 8592


w www.bluenote.net. The city’s
most famous jazz club and
attracting the most famous
names. High prices though.

Groove
125 MacDougal St at W 3rd St
t212/254-9393,
wwww.clubgroove.com. This
hopping joint features rhythm &
 PLAYING CHESS IN WASHINGTON
blues and soul music; it’s one of
SQUARE PARK the best bargains around. Happy
hour 6–9pm. Music starts at
White Horse Tavern 9.30pm. No cover.
567 Hudson St at W 11th St
t212/243-9260. Greenwich S.O.B.’s
Village institution where Dylan 204 Varick St at W Houston St
Thomas supped his last before t212/243-4940. This lively
being carted off to hospital with club/restaurant, with regular
alcohol poisoning.The beer and Caribbean, salsa, and world
food are cheap and palatable music acts, puts on two
here, and outside seating is performances a night. Admission
available in the summer. $10–20 for standing room and
$10–15 minimum cover at
tables. No cover for those with
Clubs and music dinner reservations. Check out
Samba Saturday, the venue’s
venues hottest night.

Village Underground
55 Bar 130 W 3rd St between Macdougal St
55 Christopher St between 6th and 7th and 6th Ave t212/777-7745,
aves; t212/929-9883. Really, wwww.thevillageunderground.com.
really special underground jazz This wee place is one of the most
bar; the best of the old guard. intimate and innovative spaces
No credit cards. around, where you might catch
anyone from Guided By Voices to
Arthur’s Tavern RL Burnside; daily 9pm–4am.
57 Grove St between Bleecker St and
7th Ave t212/675-6879, Village Vanguard
wwww.arthurstavernnyc.com. This 178 7th Ave S between W 11th and
low-key, fifty-year-old club Perry sts; t212/255-4037,
housed in a landmark building wwww.villagevanguard.com. This
features the Grove St Stompers, jazz landmark still lays on a
who’ve been playing every regular diet of big names. Cover
Monday for the past forty years. is $15–20, with a $10 drink
Jazz from 7pm to 9.30pm, blues minimum. Cash only.

Contents Places
121

Chelsea and the


Garment District

PLACES Chelsea and the Garment District


A grid of tenements, rowhouses, and warehouses west
of Sixth Avenue between West 14th and 30th streets,
Chelsea came to life with the arrival in the late
Seventies and early Eighties of a large gay community.
New York’s peripatetic art scene has also influenced the
neighborhood’s transformation with an influx of gal-
leries complemented by an explosion in superstore
retail, especially along Sixth Avenue.
Muscling in between Sixth and Ninth avenues from West
30th to West 42nd streets, the Garment District offers
little of interest to the casual tourist. One of the few
benefits of walking through this part of town, however,
is to take advantage of the designer’s sample sales,
where floor samples and models’ used cast-offs are
sold to the public at cheap prices.

Eighth Avenue a working Episcopalian


If Chelsea has a main drag it’s seminary – the oldest in the US
Eighth Avenue, a stretch of retail – it’s possible to explore the
energy to rival the
fast-moving traffic in
the street. A spate of
bars, restaurants,
health food stores,
gyms, and clothes
shops lend the
boulevard a definite
vibrancy, particularly
in the evening.

General
Theological
Seminary
175 9th Ave at W 21st
St. Founded in 1817,
this is a Chelsea
secret, a harmonious
assembly of ivy-clad
Gothicisms
surrounding a restive
green that feels like
part of a college
campus.Though the
buildings still house  THE CHELSEA HOTEL

Contents Places
122 y W. 43RD ST. W.

T
McGraw-Hill

EL
Building
W.
M M M
W. 41ST ST. Brya
LINCOLN Par
TUNNEL W. 40TH ST.
Port Authority
GARMENT

B R
W. 39TH ST. Bus Terminal Pu
TO N.J.
DISTRICT

O A
TWELFTH AVENUE

W. 38TH ST. W.
N.J.

D W
Chelsea and the Garment District PLACES

W. 37TH ST. W.

A Y
W. 36TH ST. W.

W. 35TH ST. HERALD


Macy’s SQUARE Em
W. 34TH ST. M M M
W. 33RD ST. GREELEY
SQUARE
N General
Post Office
Pennsylvania
Station W
Madison
W. 31ST ST. W.
Square

AV ENUE
W. 30TH ST.
Garden

AV ENU E
W. 30TH ST. W.
ELEVENTH AVENUE

W. 29TH ST. W.
Bungalow

EIGHTH AVENUE
8 W. 28TH ST. M W. 28TH ST.
Chelsea Park

S IX TH
S EV ENTH
Gorney Bravin W.
+ Lee W. 26TH ST. W.
Barbara Gladstone
Gallery 1 W. 25TH ST. London W.

W. 24TH ST. Terrace


Frying Gagosian W.
Apartments Suede
Hud

Pan Gallery 3 2 4
W. 23RD ST. M M M W.
so

6 7 5
W. 22ND ST. General W. 22ND ST.
Brent Chelsea
n

Max Protetch

AV ENUE
Sikkema Theological 8 Hotel
Ri

Gallery W. 21ST ST. Seminary W.


9
AVENUE
AV ENUE
ve

Pat Hearn
Gallery W. 20TH ST. C H E L S E A W.
r

10
E I G H T H AV E N U E
AV ENUE

Chelsea Piers W. 19TH ST. Dave’s W.


Roxy
S IX TH
g Army &
TW

11 Joyce
M Navy Store
ELF

W. 18TH ST. W.
TENTH
TH

SEVENTH

W. 17TH ST. W.
Chelsea
AV E

NINTH

12 13 Loehmann’s
0 200 yds W. 16TH ST. Market W.
NUE

14
W. 15TH ST. W.
15 16
W. 14TH ST. M M M W.
GR
EATING & DRINKING EE
W. 13TH ST. NW W
Bottino 1 Half King 3 Maroon’s I14
CH Red Cat
W. 12TH ST. ORT S
T. 2
NUE

A
Bright Food Shop 8 La Luncheonette 11SEVO The Old Homestead 16 V E NRocking Horse 10 W.
VE

N UE
Empire Diner 7 Mare GA 9 T.Open 6 Serena 5
TH A

S W. 11TH ST.
F&B 4 Maritime Hotel Bar 12 I O Passerby 15 Suite 16 13
HU

T First Presbyt
E IG H

A
GR

R
HO S T. W.
C
DS

NE
EE

JA
W

T .
.4

HS
O
N

W
T

park on weekdays and Saturday big-time designer, photographer,


at lunchtime. If you’re interested and model residents (including
in theological history, check out Isaac Mizrahi, Annie Leibovitz,
their collection of Latin Bibles – and Deborah Harry) and for
one of the largest in the world. their proximity to Chelsea’s real
housing projects to the south
London Terrace Apartments and east.
405 and 465 W 23rd St between 9th
and 10th aves. Surrounding a The Chelsea Hotel
private garden, these two rows 222 W 23rd St between 7th and 8th
of 1930s apartment buildings aves. Since being built in 1882,
got their name because the the Chelsea Hotel has seen
management made the original several incarnations and been
doormen wear London bobby undisputed home to the city’s
uniforms. However, they were harder-up literati. Mark Twain
later nicknamed “The Fashion and Tennessee Williams lived
Projects” for their retinue of here, and Brendan Behan and

Contents Places
123
Dylan Thomas staggered in and explore the continent (“Go
out during their New York West, young man!”); he also
visits. In 1951 Jack Kerouac, supported the rights of women
armed with a specially adapted and trade unions, while
typewriter (and a lot of denouncing slavery and capital

PLACES Chelsea and the Garment District


Benzedrine), typed the first punishment.
draft of On the Road nonstop Herald Square faces Greeley
onto a 120-foot roll of paper. Square in a headlong stone
Bob Dylan wrote songs in and replay of the battles between the
about the hotel, and Sid Herald newspaper and its
Vicious stabbed Nancy archrival, Greeley’s Tribune.
Spungen to death in 1978 in
their suite, a few months Penn Station and Madison
before his own life ended with Square Garden
an overdose of heroin. Today, Between W 31st and 33rd sts and
three-quarters of the hotel is 7th and 8th aves. The
occupied by permanent Pennsylvania Station (simply
residents, but the lobby, with its called “Penn” Station) and
famous phallic “Chelsea Dog” Madison Square Garden
and work by Larry Rivers, is complex, housing Knicks
worth a gander. basketball and Rangers hockey
games, is probably the most
Greeley and Herald squares prominent landmark in the
Sixth Avenue collides with Garment District. The
Broadway at West 34th Street or combined box and drum
Greeley and Herald squares, structure is perched atop Penn
overblown names for two grimy Station, which swallows up
triangles people cross on their 700,000 commuters into its
way to Macy’s department store train station belly every day.
(see p.125). Greeley Square There’s nothing memorable
celebrates Horace Greeley, about the railway station, but
founder of the Tribune the original incarnation,
newspaper, who was known for demolished in 1963, is now
his rallying call to the youth of hailed as a lost masterpiece.
the nineteenth century to You can go back in time at the

 MADISON SQUARE GARDEN

Contents Places
124
new entryway to the Long to open in 2008 as Moynihan
Island Railroad ticket area on Station, named after recently
West 34th Street at Seventh deceased US Senator Daniel
Avenue: one of the old station’s Patrick Moynihan from New
four-faced timepieces hangs York.
Chelsea and the Garment District PLACES

from the tall steel-framed glass


structure, itself reminiscent of
the original building.
Galleries
The General Post Office Barbara Gladstone Gallery
421 8th Ave at W 33rd St.The 1913 515 W 24th St between 10th and
General Post Office is a relic 11th aves t212/206-9300. A
from an era when municipal former SoHo veteran, this
pride was all about making dealer shows video and
statements – though to say that installation artists in her
the Post Office is monumental massive showspace.
in the grandest manner still
seems to underplay it.The old Brent Sikkema
joke is that it had to be this big 530 W 22nd St between 10th and 11th
to fit in the sonorous inscription aves t212/929-2262.
above the columns (“Neither Unpredictable taste and this
snow nor rain nor heat nor dealer’s strong vision fuel sales
gloom of night stays these of vintage photography and
couriers from the swift contemporary art, including
completion of their appointed some unusual works on paper.
rounds”).The post office will
only be open for a few more Gagosian Gallery
years: a new Penn Station for 555 W 24th St between 10th and 11th
Amtrak is being built here, set aves t212/741-1111. This art
world powerbroker is notable
 THE GENERAL POST OFFICE
for showing such heavyweights
as Richard Serra and Damien
Hirst.

Gorney
Bravin + Lee
534 W 26th St between 10th and 11th
aves t212/352-8372. This
exciting group of dealers makes
it their mission to show and sell
cutting-edge contemporary
works.

Max Protetch Gallery


511 W 22nd St between 10th and 11th
aves t212/633-6999. One of the
older and more peripatetic
galleries in town – you never
know what you might see here.

Pat Hearn Gallery


530 W 22nd St between 10th and 11th
aves t212/727-7366. This gallery,

Contents Places
125
founded by an art world
pioneer, continues to morph
Restaurants
with the times in its displays of
conceptual works. Bottino
246 10th Ave between W 24th and

PLACES Chelsea and the Garment District


Shops 25th sts t212/206-6766. One of
Chelsea’s most popular
restaurants, Bottino attracts the
Chelsea Market in-crowd looking for some
75 9th Ave between W 15th and 16th honest Italian food served in a
sts. A wonderful array of food very downtown atmosphere.
shops line this former Nabisco The homemade leek tortellini
factory warehouse’s ground (winter months only) is truly
floor; go for pad Thai, panini, tantalizing, but visit the ATM
chewy breads, sinful brownies, before you go.
kitchenware, or simply to
browse this one-of-a-kind urban Bright Food Shop
marketplace. 216-218 8th Ave at W 21st St
t212/243-4433. Fusion of Asian
Dave’s Army & Navy Store and Mexican food makes this
581 6th Ave at W 17th St t212/989- Chelsea eatery an eye-opener.
6444. The best place to buy Always crowded, and while
jeans in Manhattan. Good prices prices are relatively cheap for
and a great selection are the neighborhood, they’re
augmented by helpful assistants certainly not a steal.
and the absence of blaring
music. Empire Diner
210 10th Ave at W 22nd St t212/243-
Loehmann’s 2736. Spangled in silver, this
101 7th Ave between W 16th and 17th all-night diner, a neighborhood
sts t212/352-0856. New York’s landmark, charms with its gay
best-known department store vibe and its excellent burgers
for designer clothes at and grilled cheese sandwiches.
knockdown prices. No refunds
and no exchanges. F&B
269 W 23rd St between 7th and 8th
Macy’s aves t646/486-4441. Terrific
Broadway at W 34th St at Herald European-style street food
Square t212/695-4400. One of (namely hot dogs) at digestable
the world’s largest department prices. Other items include
stores, Macy’s embraces two salmon dogs, bratwursts, and
buildings, two million square mouth-watering Swedish
feet of floor space, and ten meatballs; there’s also a selection
floors (housing, unfortunately, of vegetarian offerings.
fairly mediocre wares except
for the excellent Cellar La Luncheonette
housewares department 130 10th Ave at W 18th St t212/675-
downstairs). Nonetheless, 0342. Real-deal French bistro in
visiting can be part of the New an old Polish bar; its
York experience, especially if unpretentious atmosphere only
you’re from abroad. lends to its comfortable (and
delicious) appeal.

Contents Places
126
Red Cat
227 10th Ave between W 23rd and
24th sts t212/242-1122. Superb
service, a fine American-
Mediterranean kitchen, and a
Chelsea and the Garment District PLACES

cozy atmosphere all make for a


memorable dining experience.
Book early, it’s getting more
popular by the day.

Rocking Horse
182 8th Ave between W 19th and 20th
sts t212/463-9511. The
reasonably priced Mexican
cuisine, highlighted by such
dishes as seared salmon
Napoleon, is highly inventive,
while the mojitos and
margaritas pack a punch.

Bars
Half King
 MACY’S DEPARTMENT STORE 505 W 23rd St between 10th and 11th
aves t212/462-4300. This popular
Mare Irish pub is owned by a small
198 8th Ave at W 20th St t212/675- group of writer/artists and
7522. This fish and seafood features good food and regular
restaurant is a welcome if literary events.They’ve been
slightly pricey fixture to known to book some heavy-
Chelsea’s burgeoning restaurant hitters.
ghetto, with good fresh fish
dishes and a raw bar.Try the Maritime Hotel Bar
crabcakes. 363 W 16th St at 9th Ave t212/242-
4300. Savor a martini in this
Maroon’s swanky, spacious lounge with
244 W 16th St between 7th and 8th elegant French doors in one of
aves t212/206-8640. Successful the city’s latest (and most
Caribbean and Southern food successful) architectural
in a hot and hopping basement conversions.
space, with some of the most
potent cocktails for blocks. Open
559 W 22nd St at 11th Ave t212/243-
The Old Homestead 1851. This red-hued mod
56 9th Ave between W 14th and 15th lounge throws open its doors in
sts t212/242-9040. Steak. good weather for beautiful
Period. But really gorgeous people and sunset drinks.
steak, served in an almost
comically old-fashioned walnut Passerby
dining room by waiters in 436 W 15th St between 9th and 10th
black vests. Huge portions, but aves t212/206-7321. Tiny, funky
expensive. space with a lighted floor that

Contents Places
127
looks as if it’s straight from parties, and a relaxed door
Saturday Night Fever. Perennially policy all lend themselves to a
full of black-clad lovelies, weird damn fine time; $12.
mirrors, and art world gossip.
g

PLACES Chelsea and the Garment District


Serena 225 W 19th St between 7th and 8th
222 W 23rd St between 7th and 8th aves t212/929-1085. Here, at
aves t212/255-4646. This retro Chelsea’s “friendliest” gay
basement bar is a fairly new lounge, it’s all about cosmos and
addition to the Chelsea Hotel, preening.
bringing in a new, younger, and
infinitely more self-assured Joyce
brand of local. Be prepared to 175 8th Ave at W 19th St t212/242-
pay for the legend, though, and 0800, wwww.joyce.org. One of the
beware the bouncers and the best places in the city to see
somewhat pricey drinks. modern dance. Check out the
accomplished Feld Ballet in
Suite 16 residence here as well as a host
127 8th Ave at W 16th St t212/627- of other touring companies,
1680. It’s all A-list names at this which keep this Art Deco-style
exclusive new hotspot. If you theater (complete with garish
can get in, you’ll be partying pink and purple neon signs) in
with the Hilton sisters. brisk business.

Roxy
Clubs and music 515 W 18th St between 10th and 11th
aves t212/645-5156. For a true
venues blast from the 1970s past, go for
Wednesday night roller-skating
Bungalow 8 to disco classics. On other nights
515 W 27th St between 10th and 11th this stalwart dance club still
aves t212/629-3333. An elite packs them in. A sheer New
club frequented by celebs whose York institution.
name was inspired by the
bungalows at Hollywood’s Suede
Beverly Hills Hotel. Cover 161 W 23rd St between 5th and 6th
$25–50. aves t212/633-6113. This cool,
neutral-toned nightclub is a
Frying Pan magnet for hipsters and celebs
Pier 63, Chelsea Piers at W 23rd St such as Britney Spears. Its small
t212/989-6363. This old dance floor and delicious
lightship is one of the coolest people-watching make for a
club venues in the city. Great good time. Cover $20.
views, consistently rockin’

Contents Places
128

Union Square,
Gramercy Park, and
Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray Hill PLACES

Murray Hill
Sixth Avenue forms a dividing line between Chelsea to
the west and the area that comprises Union Square and
Gramercy Park. For a glimpse of well-preserved nine-
teenth century New York, it’s well worth a jaunt around
the more genteel parts of these two neighborhoods,
before heading up toward Murray Hill, a rather anony-
mous district of canopy-fronted apartment buildings
(bound by East 34th and 40th streets between Third and
Madison avenues), best known for the tallest of New
York’s skyscrapers, the Empire State Building.
Union Square Irving Place
Founded as a park in 1813, Although he never actually
Union Square became the site lived along the street, this
of many political protests and seven-block strip, was named
workers’ rallies between the for Washington Irving, the early
Civil War and the twentieth nineteenth-century American
century. Later, the area evolved writer whose creepy tale of the
into an elegant theater and Headless Horseman, The Legend
shopping district.Today, the of Sleepy Hollow, has itself now
square invites you to stroll its passed into literary and
paths, feed the squirrels, and celluloid legend. A bust of the
gaze at its array of statuary – a author, the first American
welcome respite from rushed writer to earn a living from his
pedestrians on 14th Street, not craft, stands in front of the
least because of its Farmers’ turn-of-the-nineteenth-century
Market, held Monday, Washington Irving High
Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday School.
from 7am to 6pm.
Theodore
Roosevelt’s birth-
place
28 E 20th St between Park
Ave S and Broadway;
Tues–Sat 9am–5pm; $3,
under 16 free; t212/260-
1616. Theodore
Roosevelt’s birthplace
was restored in 1923
to the way it would
have been when
 GRAMERCY PARK Roosevelt was born

Contents Places
129

MA
W. 43RD ST. E. 43RD ST.

M W. 42ND ST. M E. 42ND ST.

Bryant
Park

A V E N U E
E. 4OTH ST.

A V E N U E
Lord and

A V E N U E
Taylor M U R R AY H I L L E. 39TH ST.
A D

W. 38TH ST. Pierpont E. 38TH ST.

PLACES Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray Hill


Morgan
W A

W. 37TH ST. E. 37TH ST.


Library

S E C O N D

E a s
F I R S T
Y

T H I R D
W. 36TH ST. E. 36TH ST.
The Complete E. 35TH ST.

E A S TF D RR I DV
Empire State Traveler

t
M Building

R i v
E. 34TH ST.

M E. 33RD ST.

SECOND AVENUE
1

e r
W. 32ND ST. E. 32ND ST.

W. 31ST ST. E. 31ST ST.


Church of the

RE I RV E
AV ENUE

AVENUE
Transfiguration
AVENUE

W. 30TH ST. E. 30TH ST.


MADISON AVENUE

W. 29TH ST. Kalustyan’s E. 29TH ST.


2

D R
LEXINGTON AVENUE

TH ST. M M E. 28TH ST.


S IXTH

THIRD
FIFTH

I V
W. 27TH ST. E. 27TH ST.
4 Jazz 3

E
W. 26TH ST. E. 26TH ST.
Standard
W. 25TH ST. Madison E. 25TH ST.
Square Metropolitan
W. 24TH ST. Park Life Building E. 24TH ST.

M W. 23RD ST. M Flatiron M E. 23RD ST.


5
D ST. Centro- Gotham Building Theodore E. 22ND ST.
Roosevelt’s 6 N
BR

Fly Comedy
SECOND AVENUE

W. 21ST ST. Birthplace


THIRD AVENUE

E. 21ST ST.
OA

Avalon 7 8 Gramercy
FIFTH AVENUE

AV ENUE
DW

W. 20TH ST. Park E. 20TH ST.


PARK AVENUE SOUTH
AY

9
IRVING PLACE

W. 19TH ST. ABC E. 19TH ST.


SIXTH AVENUE

10 11
14 Carpet 12 13
Print W. 18TH ST. & Home E. 18TH ST.
FIRST

Icon W. 17TH ST.Paragon


E. 17TH ST.
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10TH ST. 14 Mesa Grill E. 10TH ST 15 . Uncle Mo’s Burrito E. 1
E City Crab 11 No Idea 7 & Taco Shop 10
W. 9TH ST.
Coffee Shop 19 Old Town BarE. 9TH ST. Underbar 17 E. 9
Eisenberg’s
W. 8TH ST. Sandwich Shop 5 & RestaurantE. 8TH ST. 12 S T.Union
M A R K ’ SSquare
P L A C E Café 16 E. 8
WAVERLEY PL.
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there in 1858.This rather city’s last private park, it is


somber mansion contains many accessible only to those rich or
original furnishings, some of fortunate enough to live here.
Teddy’s hunting trophies, and a Famous past key holders have
small gallery documenting the included Mark Twain, Julia
president’s life, viewable on an Roberts, and Winona Ryder –
obligatory guided tour. never mind all those Kennedys
and Roosevelts. Inside the gates
Gramercy Park stands a statue of the actor
A former “little crooked swamp” Edwin Booth (brother of
between East 21st and East 22nd Lincoln’s assassin, John Wilkes
streets, Gramercy Park is one of Booth).The private Players
the city’s prettiest squares.The Club, at 15 Gramercy Park, was

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founded by Booth and sits next
door to the prestigious National
Arts Club at no. 16.

The Flatiron Building


Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray Hill PLACES

At Broadway, 5th Ave and 23rd St. Set


on a triangular or iron-shaped
plot of land, the lofty, elegant
1902 Flatiron Building is one of
the city’s most famous buildings.
Its uncommonly thin, tapered
structure creates unusual wind
currents at ground level, and
years ago policemen were
posted to prevent men gathering
to watch the wind raise the
skirts of women passing on 23rd
Street.The cry they gave to
warn off voyeurs – “23 Skidoo!”
– has passed into the language.
It’s hard to believe that this was  THE FLATIRON BUILDING
one of the city’s first true
skyscrapers, whose full twenty Appellate Division of the New
stories dwarfed the other York State Supreme Court is
structures around. resolutely righteous with its
statues of Justice,Wisdom, and
Madison Square Peace.The grand structure
Perhaps because of the stateliness behind that, the 1928 New York
of its buildings and the park- Life Building proper, was the
space in the middle, Madison work of Cass Gilbert, creator of
Square, located between East the Woolworth Building (see
23rd and 26th streets and p.80) downtown.
Madison Avenue and Broadway,
possesses a grandiosity that Church of the Transfiguration
Union Square has long since 1 E 29th St. Made from brown
lost. Next to the 1902 Art Deco brick and topped with copper
Metropolitan Life Company’s roofs, this dinky rusticated
building and clock tower on the Episcopalian church was once a
eastern side, the Corinthian- station in the Underground
columned marble facade of the Railroad, and has long been a
traditional place of worship for
showbiz people and other such
outcasts.The church was also
headquarters to the oldest boys
choir in the city, formed in 1881.
The chapel itself is an intimate
wee building set in a gloriously
leafy garden. Its interior is
furnished throughout in warm
wood, soft candlelight, and the
figures of famous actors
memorialized in the stained glass.
 MADISON SQUARE

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131
The Empire State Building Thoreau, as well as a copy of the
At 5th Ave and 34th St; daily 1455 Gutenberg Bible.
9.30am–midnight, last trip 11.15pm
$11, $6 for under age 11, ages 12–17
and seniors $10, under 5 free, combined
Shops

PLACES Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray Hill


tickets for New York Skyride and the
Observatory $17 t212/736-3100, ABC Carpet and Home
wwww.esbnyc.com. With the 888 Broadway at E 19th St t212/473-
destruction of the World Trade 3000. Six floors of antiques and
Center, the 1931 Empire State country furniture, knick-knacks,
Building, easily the city’s most linens, and, of course, carpets.
potent and evocative symbol, is The grandiose, museum-like
once again the city’s tallest setup is half the fun.
skyscraper. It stands at 102 stories
and 1454 feet – toe to TV mast – The Complete Traveler
but its height is deceptive, rising 199 Madison Ave at E 35th St
in stately tiers with steady t212/685-9007. Manhattan’s
panache. Indeed, standing on premier travel bookshop,
Fifth Avenue below, it’s quite easy excellently stocked, new and
to walk right by without even secondhand – including a huge
realizing that it’s there.The collection of Baedekers.
elevators take you to the 86th
Floor Observatory, summit of the Kalustyan’s
building before the radio and TV 123 Lexington Ave between E 28th and
mast was added.The views from 29th sts t212/685-3451. This
the outside walkways here are as heavenly scented store has been
stunning as you’d expect; on a selling Indian food products,
clear day visibility is up to eighty spices, and hard-to-find
miles.The building’s management ingredients since 1944.Today its
has decided to close the 102nd- selection covers foreign foods
floor Observatory because the from around the globe.
crowds make the smallish space
unmanageable. Be sure to bring a Lord & Taylor
photo ID, as security is very tight. 424 5th Ave at 39th St; t212/391-
3344. The most venerable of the
The Morgan Library New York department stores, in
29 E 36th St t212/685-0610, business since 1826 and to some
wwww.morganlibrary.org. extent the most pleasant, with a
Unfortunately closed until 2006 more traditional feel than
for renovations, this mock but Macy’s or Bloomingdale’s.
tastefully simple Roman villa is
commonly mistaken for the Paragon Sporting Goods
house of the financier J.P. 867 Broadway at E 18th St t212/255-
Morgan. However, the old man 8036. The ultimate Manhattan
only came here to luxuriate sporting goods store, still family-
among the art treasures he had owned, and with three levels of
bought on trips to Europe.The general merchandise.
priceless collection of nearly
10,000 drawings and prints, Print Icon
including works by Da Vinci, 7 W 18th St between 5th and 6th aves
Degas, and Dürer, are augmented t212/255-4489. The printing
by the literary manuscripts of district’s most respected shop for
Dickens, Jane Austen, and quality paper, stationery, and

Contents Places
132
print work. Its letterpress churns City Crab
out some of the city’s best- 235 Park Ave S at E 19th St
looking business cards. t212/529-3800. A large and very
popular joint that prides itself
on a large selection of fresh East
Restaurants
Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray Hill PLACES

Coast oysters and clams, which


can be had in mixed sampler
Artisanal plates. Overall, a hearty place to
2 Park Ave at E 32nd St t212/725- consume lots of bivalves and
8585. Cheese is the name of the wash ‘em down with pints of
game here – there’s a cave with ale. Roughly $20–30 per person
700 varieties. If you don’t want for a full dinner.
the full pungent experience, grab
a small table at the bar and try the Coffee Shop
gougere (gruyere puffs) with one of 29 Union Square W at E 16th St
the excellent wines on offer. t212/243-7969. A unique coffee
shop that serves salads, burgers,
Bread Bar at Tabla and grilled meats with a Brazilian
11 Madison Ave at 25th St t212/889- twist. Open 24 hours, this corner
0667. Beneath an elegant mosaic eatery sees a varied yet usually
ceiling, this little sister to even hip and modish crowd.While the
pricier Tabla (upstairs) serves food has its highlights, the
delicious Indian tapas and caipirinhas will get you higher.
cocktails perfumed with
southeast Asian spices. Sample Eisenberg’s Sandwich Shop
the lamb tandoori. 174 5th Ave between E 22nd and 23rd
sts t212/675-5096. A colorful
City Bakery luncheonette, this slice of NY life
3 W 18th St between 5th and 6th serves great tuna sandwiches,
aves t212/366-1414. A smart matzoh ball soup, and old-
stop for a satisfying lunch or a fashioned fountain sodas.
sweet-tooth craving. The vast
array of pastries is head-and- Enoteca I Trulli
shoulders above most in the 124 E 27th St between Lexington and
city. Try the tortilla pie, Park aves t212/481-7372. Just
famous pretzel croissant, and adjacent to a lovely Italian
beer hot chocolate with restaurant of the same name, this
homemade marshmallows. wine bar serves a jaw-dropping
selection from Italy. Ask for
bread with ricotta spread or a
plate of Italian cheeses to
accompany your tipple.

Gramercy Tavern
42 E 20th St between Broadway and
Park Ave S t212/477-0777. One of
NYC’s best restaurants; its Neo-
colonial decor, exquisite New
American cuisine, and perfect
service make for a memorable
meal.The seasonal taster’s menus
are well worth the steep prices,
 UNION SQUARE FARMERS’ MARKET but you can also drop in for a

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drink or more casual meal in commencing around 5pm all
the lively front room. through the week.

L’Acajou Uncle Mo’s Burrito & Taco


53 W 19th St between 5th and 6th aves Shop

PLACES Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray Hill


t212/645-1706. This small, homely 14 W 19th St between 5th and 6th
bistro has attracted an eclectic aves t212/727-9400. Authentic
clientele for years.The bar gets and wallet-friendly Mexican
smoky and crowded at happy fare; its casual, south-of-the-
hour and the tables are often full border, tortilla-wrapped goods
for lunch and dinner. Specials (available for take-out) some say
include omelets and French fries are the city’s best.
and daily dinner tarts.
Union Square Café
Les Halles 21 E 16th St between 5th Ave and
411 Park Ave S between E 28th and Union Square W t212/243-4020.
29th sts t212/679-4111. Noisy, Choice California-style dining
bustling, would-be Left Bank with a classy but comfortable
bistro with carcasses dangling in downtown atmosphere. No one
a butcher’s shop in the front. does salmon like they do. Not at
Serves rabbit, steak frites, and all cheap – prices average $100
other staples, with entrees for two – but the creative menu
ranging $15–25. and great people-watching are a
real treat.
Mesa Grill
102 5th Ave between W 15th and W
16th sts t212/807-7400. One of
Bars
lower Manhattan’s more
fashionable eateries, serving Belmont Lounge
eclectic Southwestern grill fare at 117 E 15th St between Park Ave S and
relatively high prices. During the Irving Place t212/533-0009.
week it’s full of publishing and Oversized couches, dark
advertising types doing lunch – cavernous rooms and an
at dinner things liven up a bit. outdoor garden reel in a
continuous stream of twenty-
Republic something singletons.The strong
37 Union Square W between E 16th drinks help things, too.
and 17th sts t212/627-7172. Spare
yet comfortable decor, fast No Idea
service, low prices, and good 30 E 20th St between Broadway and
noodle dishes make this a Park Ave S t212/777-0100. This
popular pan-Asian spot.The bizarre palace of inebriation has
tasty appetizers are the best part. something for most barflies –
from $5 pints of mixed drinks,
Rolf’s to a pool room,TV sports, and
281 3rd Ave at E 22nd St t212/473- even a drink-for-free-if-your-
8718. A nice, dark, name’s-on-the-wall night.
chintz-decorated Old World
feeling dominates this East Side Old Town Bar & Restaurant
institution. Schnitzel and 45 E 18th St between Broadway and
sauerbraten are always good but Park Ave S t212/529-6732. This
somehow taste better at the atmospheric and spacious bar is
generous bar buffet, popular with publishing types,

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134
models, and photographers. It
features great burgers, too.

Pete’s Tavern
129 E 18th St at Irving Place
Hill PLACES

t212/473-7676. Former
speakeasy that claims to be the
oldest bar in New York –
opened in 1864 – though these
days it inevitably trades on its
Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray

history, which included such


illustrious patrons as John F.
Kennedy Jr and O. Henry, who
 PETE’S TAVERN
allegedly wrote The Gift of the
Magi in his regular booth here. gourmet club books all flavors
of jazz and serves sublime BBQ,
Revival the best in-club grub in town.
129 E 15th St between Irving Place Sets are at 7.30pm and 9.30pm
and 3rd Ave t212/253-8061. Walk during the week, with an extra
down the stairs and into this set at 11.30pm on weekends.
friendly narrow bar with great Covers range from $15-30 with
outdoor seating in its backyard. no minimum.
Popular with fans waiting for
shows at Irving Plaza around the Centro-Fly
block. 45 W 21st St between 5th and 6th
aves t212/627-7770, wwww.centro-
Underbar fly.com. This newly renovated
W Union Square Hotel, 201 Park Ave S NYC club recently reduced its
between E 17th and 18th sts cover to $10-15, shed its
t212/358-1560. A fashionable attitude, and is now even more
meat-market for beautiful people “lady friendly.”
only. Red velvet ropes keep out
the riff-raff and ill-dressed. Gotham Comedy Club
34 W 22nd St between 5th and 6th
aves t212/367-9000,
wwww.gothamcomedyclub.com. A
Clubs and music swanky and spacious comedy
venues venue, highly respected by local
New Yorkers, even persnickety
media types. Cover $10
Avalon Sun–Thurs, $16 Fri and Sat.
37 W 20th St at 6th Ave t212/807- Two-drink minimum.
7780. Formerly the infamous
Limelight, this is one of the most Irving Plaza
splendid (and newest) party 17 Irving Place between E 15th and 16th
spaces in New York: a church sts t212/777-6800. Once home to
designed by Trinity Church- off-Broadway musicals, this venue
builder Richard Upjohn. $25. now hosts an impressive array of
rock, electronic music, and
Blue Smoke: Jazz Standard techno acts – a good place to see
116 E 27th St between Park and popular bands in a manageable
Lexington aves t212/576-2232, setting. $15-30.
wwww.jazzstandard.com. This

Contents Places
135

Times Square and the


Theater District

PLACES Times Square and the Theater District


The towering signs and flashing lights of Times Square,
the gnarly trafficked area just north of 42nd Street where
Sixth and Seventh avenues instersect with Broadway,
bring a whole new meaning to the term “sensory over-
load.” Thousands of visitors pass through daily, some to
see the spot of the famous New Year’s Eve countdown
celebration and gaze upon the formerly seedy yet now
garishly ostentatious display of media and commercial-
ism. The adjoining Theater District and its million-dollar
Broadway productions still draw crowds, while Hell’s
Kitchen to the immediate west offers innumerable
restaurants as well as a gritty nightlife.
M
W . 6 0 T H S T.
P
COLUMBUS CENTRAL PARK SOUTH H
0 200 yds CIRCLE
W. 5 8 T H S T.
1 2
W. 5 7 T H S T. M M
B R

3
A V E N U E

A V E N U E
ELEVENTH AVENUE

EIGHTH AVENUE

AMERICAS)

Carnegie
O A

W. 5 6 T H S T.
Hall
4
SEVENTH AVENUE

W. 5 5 T H S T.
D W

6 5
W. 5 4 T H S T.
7
T E N T H

N I N T H

A Y

(AVE . OF THE

8
T W E L F T H A V E N U E
M I L L E R H I G H W A Y

W. 5 3 R D S T. M
9
W. 5 2 N D S T. Roseland M
10
W. 5 1 S T S T. Iridium Jazz Club
N W. 5 0 T H S T.
12 11
M M M
13 Caroline’s
SIXTH AVENUE

W. 4 9 T H S T. on Broadway
A V E N U E

14 Ro
A V E N U E

Manny’s
E I G H T H AV E N U E

W. 4 8 T H S T.
Music
Swing 46 The Supper Club P
W. 4 7 T H S T. Jazz Club 15 Lyceum
16 17
China Club
N I N T H

Intrepid W. 4 6 T H S T. Theatre DIAMO


18 Don’t Tell
T E N T H

DUFFY
Sea-Air-Space 19 Mama SQUARE
ROW
Museum W. 4 5 T H S T. Algonquin
20
W . 4 4 T H S T . Birdland 21
Shubert Theater TIMES
ELEVENTH AVENUE

22
W. 4 3 R D S T. SQUARE
E

New International
T W EL F TH AVENU

M Amsterdam M Center of M
Theater Photography
W. 4 2 N D S T. WEST 41ST ST. G
Bu
New 23
W. 4 0 T H S T. Port Authority Victory
Bus Terminal

EATING & DRINKING


Aquavit 7 The Collins Bar 16 Judson Grill 10 Russian Vodka Room 9
Blue Fin 15 Emporio Brasil 17 Landmark Tavern 19 Stage Deli 8
Bryant Park Grill 23 Hudson Hotel Le Bernardin 11 Sugiyama 4
Carnegie Deli 5 Bar & Library 1 Ollie’s 21 Thalia 13
Chez Napoleon 12 Jimmy’s Corner 22 Petrossian 2 Trattoria dell’Arte 3
Churrascaria Joe Allen’s 18 Rudy’s 20 Ye Olde Tripple Inn 6
Plataforma 14

Contents Places
136
Sixth Avenue Capa (brother of war
Sixth Avenue is properly named photographer Robert Capa),
Avenue of the Americas, though this exceptional museum and
no New Yorker calls it this; the school sponsors twenty exhibits
only manifestations of the tag a year dedicated to “concerned
Times Square and the Theater District PLACES

are lamppost flags of Central photography,” avant-garde and


and South American countries. experimental works, and
In its day, the Sixth Avenue retrospectives of modern
elevated train marked the border masters.
between respectability to the
east and dodgier areas to the The Algonquin Hotel
west, and in a way it’s still a 59 W 44th St between 5th and 6th aves
dividing line separating the t212/840-6800. “Dammit, it was
glamorous strips of Fifth, the twenties and we had to be
Madison, and Park avenues from smarty.” So said Dorothy Parker
the brasher western districts of of the literary group known as
Midtown. By the time Sixth the Algonquin Round Table,
Avenue reaches midtown whose members hung out at the
Manhattan, it has become a Algonquin Hotel and were closely
showcase of corporate wealth. associated with the New Yorker
magazine. Other regulars
International Center of included Noel Coward (ask
Photography nicely and someone will point
1133 6th Ave at 43rd St; Tues–Thurs out his table), George Bernard
10am–5pm, Fri 10am–8pm, Sat & Sun Shaw, Irving Berlin, and Boris
10am–6pm $8, students and seniors Karloff.Alan Jay Lerner even
$7 t212/857-0000, wwww.icp.org. wrote My Fair Lady in room 908.
Founded in 1974 by Cornell (For a review of the hotel, see
p.205.)

Diamond Row
W 47th St between 5th and
6th aves. You’ll know
Diamond Row by the
diamond-shaped lamps
mounted on pylons at
either end.This strip,
where you can get
jewelry fixed at
reasonable prices,
features wholesale and
retail shops chock full of
gems and was first
established in the 1920s.
These working shops are
largely managed by
Hasidic Jews sporting
their traditional beards,
sidelocks, and dark suits
fashioned from styles
that existed years ago in
the ghettos of Poland.
 DIAMOND ROW

Contents Places
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PLACES Times Square and the Theater District


 TIMES SQUARE

Fifty-seventh Street Renaissance-inspired Carnegie


Fifty-seventh Street competes Hall was built by steel magnate
with Chelsea as the center for Andrew Carnegie for $1 million
upmarket art sales. Galleries here in 1891.Tchaikovsky conducted
are noticeably snootier than on opening night and Mahler,
their downtown relations, often Rachmaninov,Toscanini, Frank
requiring an appointment for Sinatra, and Judy Garland have
viewing. Incongruously, a string all played here (as have Duke
of garish and touristy theme- Ellington, Billie Holiday, the
eateries, such as Hard Rock Cafe, Beatles, and Spinal Tap).The
dot this trafficked East-West superb acoustics here ensure full
thoroughfare, which provides houses most of the year; those
easy access to some of craving a behind-the-scenes
Midtown’s major points of glimpse should take the
interest, such as Carnegie Hall. excellent tours.

Carnegie Hall Times Square


154 W 57th St at 7th Ave; tours With its seedy side all but past,
Sept–June $6, $5 students, $5 seniors Times Square is now a largely
tours t212/903-9765, tickets sanitized universe of popular
t212/247-7800, wwww.carnegie consumption. It takes its name
hall.org. One of the world’s from when the New York Times
greatest concert venues, stately built offices here in 1904;

Attending a show
If you want to see a show, check out the TKTS booth in Times Square, which sells
half-price, same-day tickets for Broadway shows (Mon–Sat 3–8pm, Sun
11am–7pm, also Wed & Sat 10am–2pm for 2pm matinees). The booth has avail-
able at least one pair of tickets for each performance of every Broadway and off-
Broadway show, at 25- to 50-percent off (plus a $3 per ticket service charge),
payable in cash or travelers’ checks only. Also, many theater box offices sell great-
ly reduced “standing room only” tickets the day of the show.

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publisher Adolph Ochs staged a Hell’s Kitchen
New Year’s celebration here in Between 30th and 59th streets
honor of their opening, a west of Eighth Avenue, Hell’s
tradition that continues today, Kitchen today mostly centers
though the paper itself has long on the engaging slash of
Times Square and the Theater District PLACES

since moved its offices around restaurants, bars, and ethnic


the corner to 43rd Street.The delis of Ninth Avenue. Once
neon, so much a signature of one of New York’s most violent
the square, was initially confined and lurid neighborhoods, it was
to the theaters and spawned the first populated by Irish
term “the Great White Way,” yet immigrants, who were soon
the illumination is not limited joined by Greeks, Puerto
to theaters, of course. Myriad Ricans, and blacks. The rough-
ads, forming one of the world’s and-tumble neighborhood was
most garish nocturnal displays, popularized in the 1957
promote hundreds of products musical West Side Story.
and services.You can find Recently, it has attracted a new
enough gifts in the souvenir residential population, with
shops for your 500 best friends. renovation and apartment
construction happening at
The Theater District break-neck speed and
West of Broadway north of West gentrification threatening to
42nd Street is considered the change the neighborhood
Theater District. Of the great old forever.
theaters still in existence, the
New Amsterdam, at 214 West The Intrepid Sea-Air-Space
42nd Street, and family-oriented Museum
New Victory, at 209 West 42nd Pier 86 at W 46th St and 12th Ave;
Street, have been refurbished to April–Sept: Mon–Fri 10am–5pm,
their original splendor.The Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Oct–March:
Lyceum, at 149 West 45th Street, Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; $14.50, college
has its original facade, while the students and seniors $10.50, ages
Shubert Theatre, at 225 West 6–17 $9.50, ages 2–5 $2.50
44th Street, which hosted A t212/245-0072,
Chorus Line during its twenty- wwww.intrepidmuseum.org. This
odd–year run, still occupies its impressive, 900-foot–long old
own small space and walkway. aircraft carrier has picked up

 INTREPID SEA-AIR-SPACE MUSEUM

Contents Places
139
capsules from the Mercury and to show exciting works:
Gemini space missions and painting, sculpture, and
made several trips to Vietnam. photography from
Today it holds an array of contemporary masters, as well as
modern and vintage air- and retrospectives of its past artists.

PLACES Times Square and the Theater District


seacraft, including the A-12
Blackbird, the world’s fastest spy
plane, and the USS Growler, the
Shops
only guided missile submarine
open to the public. It also has Manny’s Music
interactive exhibits, an on-board 156 W 48th St between 6th and 7th
restaurant, and is now home to aves t212/819-0576. One of the
the recently retired Concorde. best music stores in what is
New York’s heaviest
Galleries concentration of musical
instrument and sheet music
stores on the block of West 48th
Kennedy Galleries Street between Sixth and
730 5th Ave t212/541-9600. A Seventh avenues.
dealer in nineteenth- and
twentieth-century American
painting, it shows a wide variety
Restaurants
of styles. It also has an
outstanding collection of Aquavit
American prints for sale. 13 W 54th St between 5th and 6th
aves t212/307-7311. Superb
Marlborough Gallery Scandinavian food – pickled
40 W 57th St t212/541-4900. herring, salmon, even reindeer –
Specializing in famous American in a lovely atrium restaurant
and European names, with sister with a mock waterfall cascading
galleries in Chelsea, Madrid, down one of the walls. A real
Monaco, and London, where treat, and priced accordingly;
the orginal gallery was founded reserve well ahead.
in 1947 to help foster artistic
talent, such as Henry Moore Blue Fin
and Phillip Guston. W Hotel, Times Square, 1567 Broadway
at W 47th St t212/918-1400. Lively
Mary Boone Gallery Midtown seafood restaurant
745 5th Ave t212/752-2929. Since popular with style-mavens as
1977, Mary Boone has been well as tourists. Prices are about
shaking up the New York art average for the neighborhood,
world by showing and selling but you get your money’s
captivating works by relative worth.Try the beet, goat cheese,
unknowns, such as Jean Michel and macadamia nut salad ($10)
Basquiat, Ross Bleckner, and the sesame-crusted tuna
Francesco Clemente, and more ($25).
recently Damien Loeb and Will
Cotton. Bryant Park Grill
25 W 40th St between 5th and 6th
Tibor de Nagy Gallery aves t212/840-6500. The food is
724 5th Ave, 12th floor t212/262- standard-upscale – Caesar salad,
5050. Established in 1950, this grilled chicken, rack of lamb,
venerable gallery still manages hake – but the real reason to

Contents Places
140
come is atmosphere, provided stabbed with succulent slabs of
by the park, whether viewed grilled pork, chicken, and lots of
from within the spacious dining beef. Be careful – while the all-
room or enjoyed al fresco on you-can-eat dinner price is a
the terrace. The Café at Bryant hefty $42.95, the caipirinhas are
Times Square and the Theater District PLACES

Park, next door on the terrace even more expensive.


(May–Sept), serves less
expensive, lighter options, but Emporio Brasil
beware: it’s a huge singles scene. 15 W 46th St between 5th and 6th aves
t212/764-4646. Check out the
Carnegie Deli authentic Brazilian food and
854 7th Ave between W 54th and 55th atmosphere, enhanced by
sts t212/757-2245. At this reasonable prices for midtown.
famous Jewish deli, the most On Saturday afternoons, Brazil’s
generously stuffed sandwiches in national dish, the tasty feijoada (a
the city are served by the rudest stew of meaty pork and black
of waiters. Still, it’s a must- beans, with rice) takes center
experience, if you can stand the stage.
inflated prices.
Joe Allen’s
Chez Napoleon 326 W 46th St between 8th and 9th
365 W 50th St between 8th and 9th aves t212/581-6464. The tried-
aves t212/265-6980. One of and-true formula of checkered
several highly authentic Gallic tablecloths, old-fashioned
eateries that sprung up around barroom feel, and reliable
here in the 1940s and 1950s, American food at moderate
Chez Napoleon, a friendly, prices works excellently at this
family-run bistro, lives up to its popular pre-theater spot. Make a
reputation. Bring a wad to enjoy reservation, unless you plan to
the tradition, though. arrive after 8pm.

Churrascaria Plataforma Judson Grill


316 W 49th St between 8th and 9th 152 W 52nd St between 6th and 7th
aves t212/245-0505. In this huge, aves t212/582-5252.
open, Brazilian dining room Sophisticated contemporary
meat, the fare of choice, is American with a loyal fan base.
served by waiters walking The smoked trout in blini
around tables with swords ($12.50) is a standout, as are any

 JOE ALLEN’S

Contents Places
141
of the foie gras dishes.The Sugiyama
braised shortribs ($35) is 251 W 55th St between Broadway and
another delicious pick, and 8th Ave t212/956-0670. You may
there’s always a vegetarian want to take out a loan before
entree or two on the menu dining at this superb Japanese

PLACES Times Square and the Theater District


using seasonal green market restaurant, where you’re
produce. guaranteed an exquisite
experience, from its enchanting
Le Bernardin kaiseki (chef ’s choice) dinners
155 W 51st St between 6th and 7th (vegetarian or non) to its regal
aves t212/554-1515. One of the service.
finest and priciest French
restaurants in the city; the Thalia
award-winning chef, Eric 828 8th Ave at W 50th St t212/399-
Ripert, offers an excellent 4444. Imaginative, New American
smoked salmon gravalax topped cuisine and a solid choice for
with scallop ceviche, among Theater District dining.The
many other fishy dishes. His 5000-square-foot dining space is
sauces are not to be believed. full of color, and the prices aren’t
bad either.Try the spiced sweet
Ollie’s potato soup ($7) and the New
200-b W 44th St between Broadway York Blackout Cake ($8).
and 8th Ave t212/921-5988. Good
Chinese restaurant that serves Trattoria dell’Arte
marvellous noodles, barbecued 900 7th Ave between W 56th and 57th
meats, and spare ribs. Not, sts t212/245-9800. Unusually
however, a place to linger.Very nice restaurant for this rather
cheap, very crowded, and very tame stretch of midtown, with a
noisy. Also very popular pre- lovely airy interior, excellent
theater place, so don’t be service, and good food. Great,
alarmed if there are long lines – wafer-thin crispy pizzas, decent
due to the rushed service, they and imaginative pasta dishes for
move fast. around $20, and a mouth-
watering antipasto bar – all
Petrossian eagerly patronized by an elegant
182 W 58th St at 7th Ave t212/245- out-to-be-seen crowd. Best to
2214. Pink granite and etched reserve.
mirrors set the mood at this Art
Deco temple to decadence,
where champagne and caviar Bars
are tops. More affordable
options include its $39 prix fixe The Collins Bar
dinner. 735 8th Ave between W 46th and 47th
sts t212/541-4206. Sleek, stylish
Stage Deli bar has choice sports photos
834 7th Ave, between W 53rd and W along one side, original artworks
54th sts T 212/245-7850. Open- along the other – not to
all-night, the Stage features mention perhaps the most
genuine New York attitude and eclectic jukebox in the city.
gigantic, overstuffed sandwiches
($12). Hudson Hotel Bar & Library
Hudson Hotel, 356 W 58th St between
8th and 9th aves t212/554-6000.

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142
York’s cheapest,
friendliest, and
liveliest dive
bars, a favorite
with local
Times Square and the Theater District PLACES

actors and
musicians.
Rudy’s offers
free hot dogs
and a backyard
that’s great in
the summer.

Russian
Vodka Room
265 W 52nd St
between Broadway
and 8th Ave
t212/307-5835.
Amid the dim
lighting, enjoy
numerous kinds
of vodkas and
 42ND STREET ON 42ND ST caviar as well as
the company of
Once sizzling hot, these funky Russian and eastern European
hotel lounges have cooled off expatriates.
but still make for a thrill-and-
swill scene. Ye Olde Tripple Inn
263 W 54th St between Broadway and
Jimmy’s Corner 8th Ave t212/245-9849. No-frills
140 W 44th St between Broadway and Irish bar that serves inexpensive
6th Ave t212/221-9510. The walls food at lunchtime and early
of this long, narrow corridor of evening. A useful place to know
a bar, owned by an ex- in this part of town.
fighter/trainer, are a virtual
Boxing Hall of Fame.You’d be
hard pressed to find a more
characterful dive anywhere in Clubs and music
the city – or a better jazz/R&B
jukebox.
venues
Landmark Tavern Birdland
626 11th Ave at W 46th St t212/757- 315 W 44th St between 8th and 9th
8595. Off-the-beaten-track but aves t212/581-3080, Wwww.birdland
long-established Irish tavern jazz.com. Celebrated alto
with a tasty menu with large saxophonist Charlie “Bird”
portions – the Irish soda bread Parker has served as the
is baked fresh every day. inspiration for this important
jazz venue for fifty years. Sets
Rudy’s are at 9pm and 11pm nightly.
627 9th Ave between W 44th and 45th Cover $20-40, $10 food/drink
sts t212/974-9169. One of New minimum.

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143
Caroline’s on Broadway a bargain at $22 with all-you-
1626 Broadway between W 49th and can-drink mimosas.
50th sts t212/757-4100. This
glitzy room books some of the Roseland
best comedy acts in town.Two- 239 W 52nd St between Broadway

PLACES Times Square and the Theater District


drink minimum. $12–22 cover; and 8th Ave t212/247-0200. This
more expensive on weekends. club has retained the grand
ballroom feel of its heyday
China Club (take a gander at the shoes in
268 W 47th St between Broadway and the entryway and the elaborate
8th Ave t212/398-3800. Huge powder rooms) but the $2.5
fancy schmanzy venue with million renovations make it a
occasional live tunes performed great place to catch big names
by the likes of Bowie and the before they hit the
Boss thrown in. arena/stadium circuit.

Don’t Tell Mama The Supper Club


343 W 46th St between 8th and 9th 240 W 47th St between Broadway and
aves t212/757-0788, 8th Ave t212/921-1940. White
Wwww.donttellmama.com. The linen tablecloths, a large dance
lively, convivial piano bar and floor, and upscale lounge
cabaret features rising stars.Two- jazz/hip-hop groups. Fri and Sat
drink minimum in cabaret at 8pm, Eric Comstock and the
rooms, and showtimes and Supper Club’s house big band
covers vary ($5-$25). swing with a vengeance. $25
before 11pm; $15 after.
Iridium Jazz Club
1650 Broadway at W 51st St t212/582- Swing 46 Jazz Club
2121. Contemporary jazz is 349 W 46th St between 8th and 9th
performed seven nights a week in aves t212/262-9554,
a surrealist decor described as Wwww.swing46.com. You can kick
“Dolly meets Disney.”The up your heels every night until
godfather of electric guitar, Les 2am to live swing bands. Dance
Paul, plays every Monday. Shows lessons at 9.15 (included in
at 8pm and 10pm, extra Fri & cover), and big sixteen-piece
Sat show at 11.30pm. Cover bands play one night a week.
$25–35, $10 food and drink Sunday features tap dancing 5-
minimum. Sunday jazz brunch is 8pm. Main cover $10, bar $5.

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144

Midtown East
Rolling eastward from Fifth Avenue, through the 40s and
50s, is the largely corporate and commercial area
Midtown East PLACES

known as Midtown East. Here you’ll find the city’s


sniffiest boutiques, best Art Deco facades, and exem-
plary Modernist skyscrapers scattered primarily along
East 42nd Street and Fifth, Park, and Madison avenues.
Anchored by Cornelius Vanderbilt’s Beaux Arts train sta-
tion, Grand Central Terminal, Midtown East is, more
than anything, a trove of architectural treasures that
include Mies van der Rohe and Philip Johnson’s 1958
curtain-wall skyscraper, the Seagram Building; the auto-
mobile-inspired 1930s’ Deco delight, the Chrysler
Building; and the rambling geometric bulk of the United
Nations complex.
Fifth Avenue York Public Library or
The grand sight- and store- Rockefeller Center.
studded spine of Manhattan,
Fifth Avenue has signified The New York Public Library
social position and prosperity and Bryant Park
for the last two centuries. 42nd St and 5th Ave, Tues & Wed
Between 42nd and 59th streets, 11am–7pm, Thurs–Sat 10am–6pm
Fifth has always drawn crowds t212/930-0830, wwww.nypl.org. This
– particularly during monumental Beaux Arts building
Christmas, when department- is the headquarters of the largest
store windows are filled with branch public library system in
elaborate displays – to gaze at the world. Its steps, framed by
what has become the two majestic reclining lions, the
automatic image of wealth and symbols of the NYPL, are a
opulence, or to visit the New meeting point and general

 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY

Contents Places
145
Zoo UPPER EAST SIDE N
EAST 64TH STREET 0 200 yds

MADISON AVENUE
FIFTH AVENUE

PARK AVENUE
Central EAST 63RD STREET
Park
EAST 62ND STREET

EAST 61ST STREET

PLACES Midtown East


P ond GRAND EAST 60TH STREET
The ARMY PLAZA QUEENSBORO
CENTRAL PARK SOUTH BRIDGE

RIVERVIEW
M M

TERRACE
E . 5 9 T H S T.
Plaza

THIRD AVENUE
LEXINGTON AVENUE

SECOND AVENUE

P L A C E
A V E N U E
Hotel E . 5 8 T H S T.
Tiffany
Bergdorf & Co. Niketown E . 5 7 T H S T.
Goodman

S U T T O N
Trump Tower 1
G.E. Sony E . 5 6 T H S T.

F I R S T
Building Building
E . 5 5 T H S T.
Museum of Takashimaya St. Peter's 2
Modern Art Museum of Church Citicorp E . 5 4 T H S T.

D R I V E
Television 3 Center
M & Radio M E . 5 3 R D S T.
5 Seagram Building 4
American Olympic Tower E . 5 2 N D S T.
Craft Museum

F . D . R .
6
St. Patrick's M E . 5 1 S T S T.

BEEKMAN PL.
Radio City 7
Music Hall Cathedral
E . 5 0 T H S T.
Waldorf-Astoria

E a s t R i v e r
8
Saks Fifth Hotel 9
PA RK AV EN U E

Rockefeller Avenue
E . 4 9 T H S T.
A V E N U E

Center Caswell- 10
L E X I N G T O N AV E N U E

A V E N U E
Massey Ltd E . 4 8 T H S T.

E . 4 7 T H S T.
Helmsley United
THIRD AVENUE
FIFTH AVENUE

DIAMOND ROW
Building Nations
E . 4 6 T H S T.
JR Cigar Headquarters
S E C O N D

F I R S T

11
VANDERBILT AVENUE

E . 4 5 T H S T. General
MetLife 12 Assembly
(Pan Am) E . 4 4 T H S T. Building
Building
Conference
13 Grand E . 4 3 R D S T. Building
14 Central Chrysler
Building Secretariat
M Station E . 4 2 N D S T.
New York
Bryant Public
Park Library
E . 4 1 S T S T.

E . 4 0 T H S T.

EATING & DRINKING Divine Bar 7 Mee Noodle Rosen’s Delicatessen 6


Bar and Books 8 Four Seasons 5 Shop and Grill 10 Smith & Wollensky 9
Campbell Apartments 14 Hatsuhana 11 Oyster Bar 13 Solera 4
Comfort Diner 12 Lever House 3 P.J. Clarke’s 1 Vong 2

hangout, and you can either scene here can be lively, with free
explore inside by yourself or take jazz and outdoor movie
one of the tours.The highlights screenings.
are the large coffered 636-seat
Reading Room on the third Rockefeller Center
floor, where people as disparate From 5th to 7th aves, between 47th to
as Leon Trotsky, Norman Mailer, 51st sts t212/332-6868,
and E.L. Doctorow worked. wwww.rockefeller
Right behind the public library center.com. The heart of
between W 40th and 42nd midtown’s glamour, Rockefeller
streets, Bryant Park is a grassy, Center was built between 1932
square block filled with slender and 1940 by John D. Rockefeller
trees, flower beds, and inviting Jr, son of the oil magnate, and is
chairs that was formally one of the finest pieces of urban
landscaped in 1934.The summer planning anywhere, balancing

Contents Places
Midtown East PLACES 146

 SKATING AT THE ROCKERFELLER CENTRE

office space with cafés, a theater, long-running comedy hit


underground concourses, and Saturday Night Live and the
rooftop gardens that work popular morning Today Show.
together with a rare intelligence Curiosity-satisfying hour-long
and grace. At its center, the tours behind the scenes of select
Lower Plaza holds a sunken shows leave every thirty minutes
restaurant in the summer (Mon–Fri, and every 15 minutes
months – a great place for on weekends; Mon–Fri
afternoon cocktails – linked 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun
visually to the downward flow 9.30am–4.30pm; reservations at
of the building by Paul the NBC Experience Store Tour
Manship’s sparkling sculpture Desk; $17.75, children $15.25;
Prometheus. In winter this sunken free ticket for a show recording
area becomes an ice rink, and from the mezzanine lobby or out
skaters show off their skills to on the street; t212/664-7174).
passing shoppers. Each
Christmas since 1931, a huge Radio City Music Hall
tree has been on display, and its 1260 6th Ave at W 50 St; Mon–Sat
lighting, with accompanying 10am–8pm, Sun 11am–8pm. A
musical entertainment, draws world-famous concert hall,
throngs in early December. Radio City is the last word in
1930s’ luxury.The staircase is
The GE Building resplendent, with the world’s
30 Rockefeller Plaza. The GE largest chandeliers, while the
Building rises 850 feet, its huge auditorium looks like an
symmetrical monumental lines extravagant scalloped shell.
matching the scale of Manhattan Hour-long “Stage Door”
itself. In the GE lobby, José behind-the-scenes walking tours
Maria Sert’s murals, American include a meeting with a
Progress and Time, are in tune Rockette ($17, seniors $14,
with the Thirties Deco students $14; general info
ambience. Among the building’s t212/307-7171, tour info
many offices are the NBC t212/247-4777, wwww
Studios, which produces the .radiocity.com).

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147
St Patrick’s Cathedral expansion that will result in a
50th Street and 5th Ave. Designed whopping 630,000 square feet
by James Renwick and of exhibition space, the
completed in 1888, St Patrick’s Museum of Modern Art
Cathedral is the result of a (MoMA) is being temporarily

PLACES Midtown East


painstaking academic tour of the housed in a facility in Queens
Gothic cathedrals of Europe – (see p.190).The main location is
perfect in detail, yet rather expected to re-open in early
lifeless in spirit, with a sterility 2005 in time for the museum’s
made all the more striking by 75th anniversary.
the glass-black Olympic Tower One of the most celebrated
next door, an exclusive museums in the world, MoMA’s
apartment block where Jackie selections from its vast
Kennedy Onassis once lived. permanent collection of late
nineteenth- and twentieth-
Museum of century art cover every major
Television and Radio medium – illustration, design,
25 W 52nd St between 5th and 6th aves, photography, painting, sculpture,
Tues–Sun noon–6pm, Thurs noon–8pm; and film.
$10, seniors & students $8, t212/621- Highlights include the Post-
6800, wwww.mtr.org. This fine Impressionist and Cubist
media museum holds an paintings of Cézanne, Picasso,
extraordinary archive of American and Braque; the inspired
TV and radio broadcasts. Its abstractions of Mondrian,
computerized reference system Kandinsky, and Miro; and the
allows you to search and watch all Pop Art work of Warhol and
manner of programs on one of 96 Johns.The museum is one of
video consoles. the city’s most crowded and is
best visited on a weekday.
The American Craft Museum
40 W 53rd St between 5th and 6th Trump Tower
aves, Mon–Thurs and Fri–Sun 737 5th Ave. At Fifth Avenue and
10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–8pm; $9, 56th Street, New York real-
students and seniors $6 t212/956- estate developer Donald Trump’s
3535, wwww.americancraft outrageously overdone high-rise
museum.org. Authoritatively and atrium is just short of
curated and presented by the repellent to many – though
American Craft Council, the perhaps not to those who
three floors featuring fine frequent the glamorous designer
contemporary crafts here offer a boutiques on the lower floors.
glimpse at some uniquely Perfumed air, polished marble
American handiwork and paneling, and a five-story
artisanry. Changing exhibits that waterfall are calculated to knock
cover a wide array of materials you senseless.The building is
(from paper to porcelain to clever, a neat little outdoor
metal to glass) and styles are garden is squeezed high in a
accompanied by lectures and corner, and each of the 230
workshops. apartments above the atrium
provides views in three
The Museum of Modern Art directions. “The Donald” lives
11 W 53rd St t212/708-9480, here, along with other worthies
wwww.moma.org. While of the hyper-rich crowd,
undergoing a $640-million including Stephen Spielberg and

Contents Places
148
Michael Jackson, who keeps a grandeur.You might want to
three-floor duplex here. linger a while on its steps to
ogle the comings-and-goings of
Grand Army Plaza those lucky enough to be
Between 58th and 60th streets staying in one of its 800 rooms
Midtown East PLACES

on Fifth Avenue is one of the – a list that over the years has
city’s most dramatic public included the likes of the Duke
spaces – Grand Army Plaza. and Duchess of Windsor, Frank
Flanked by hotels – the copper- Lloyd Wright, and the Beatles.
lined chateau of the Plaza and, See p.206 for a review.
to the north, the high-necked
Sherry Netherland and the Pierre Madison Avenue
– it boasts a fountain and a gold A block east of Fifth, Madison
statue of Civil War General Avenue runs parallel to it, with
William Tecumseh Sherman. some of its sweep but less of the
excitement. It is a little removed
Plaza Hotel from its 1960s and 1970s prime,
59th St at Central Park South when it was internationally
t212/759-3000 . Familiar from its recognized as the epicenter of
many film appearances, the the advertising industry.
copper-fringed 1907 Plaza Hotel Nevertheless, it remains a major
is worth a peek for its (slightly upscale shopping boulevard.
faded) gilt-and-brocade Several good stores – notably
several specializing in men’s
haberdashery, shoes, and cigars –
can be found on this aristocratic
thoroughfare.

The Sony Building


550 Madison Ave, between E 55th and
56th sts. Philip Johnson’s 38-story
Sony Building (1978–84) follows
the Postmodernist theory of
eclectic borrowing from
historical styles: a Modernist
skyscraper sandwiched between a
Chippendale top and a
Renaissance base.While the
building has its fans, popular
opinion holds that the tower
doesn’t work. Even though the
ground floor is well worth
ducking into to soak in the brute
grandeur, some speculate
Johnson should have followed
the advice of his teacher, Mies
van der Rohe:“It’s better to
build a good building than an
original one.”

Park Avenue
“Where wealth is so swollen that
 PLAZA TEAROOM it almost bursts,” wrote

Contents Places
149

PLACES Midtown East

 THE CONCOURSE, GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL

Collinson Owen of Park Avenue Vanderbilt, Grand Central


in 1929, and things haven’t Terminal was a masterly piece of
changed much: corporate urban planning in its day.With a
headquarters jostle for basic iron frame and dramatic
prominence, pushed apart by Beaux Arts skin, the main train
Park’s broad avenue initially built station’s concourse is a sight to
to accommodate elevated rail behold – 470ft long and 150ft
tracks.Whatever your feelings high, it boasts a barrel-vaulted
about conspicuous wealth, Park ceiling speckled like a Baroque
Avenue in the 40s and 50s (and church with a painted
farther north) is one of the city’s representation of the winter
most awesome sights. night sky. For the best view of
the concourse – as well as the
Grand Central Terminal flow of commuters and
Built in 1871 under the commerce – climb to the
direction of Cornelius catwalks that span the sixty-

Contents Places
150
foot-high windows on the vintage Deco grandeur,
Vanderbilt Avenue side. After sweeping marble, and hushed
that, seek out the station’s more plushness where such well-
esoteric reaches, including a knowns as Herbert Hoover,
new lower concourse brimming Cole Porter, and Princess
Midtown East PLACES

with take-out options for a Grace of Monaco have


quick bite. Free Wednesday bunked.
lunchtime tours of Grand
Central Station begin at St Bartholomew’s Church
12.30pm from the main Park Ave at E 50th St.The
information booth; Saturday Episcopalian St Bartholomew’s
walking and bus tours may Church is a low-slung
require reservations. Romanesque hybrid with
portals designed by McKim,
The Helmsley and Met Life Mead and White. Adding
buildings immeasurably to the street, it
230 Park Ave between E 45th and 46th gives the lumbering skyscrapers
sts; 200 Park Ave between E 44th and a much-needed sense of scale.
45th sts. The Helmsley Building, Due to the fact that it’s on some
a delicate, energetic of the city’s most valuable real
construction with a lewdly estate, the church fought against
excessive Rococo lobby and developers for years, and
ornate pyramid roof, rises in the ultimately became a test case for
middle of Park Avenue, yet its New York City’s landmark
thunder was stolen in 1963 by preservation law.Today, its
the Met Life Building, which congregation thrives and its
looms behind. Bauhaus guru members sponsor many
Walter Gropius had a hand in community outreach programs.
designing this, and the critical
consensus is that he could have The Seagram Building
done better. As the headquarters 375 Park Ave, between E 52nd and
of the now-defunct Pan Am 53rd sts. Designed by Mies van
airline, the building, in profile, der Rohe with Philip Johnson,
was meant to suggest an aircraft
wing, and the blue-gray mass
certainly adds drama to the
cityscape.Whatever success the
Met Life scores, it robs Park
Avenue of the views south it
deserves and needs, sealing 44th
Street and sapping much of the
vigor of the surrounding
buildings.

Waldorf Astoria Hotel


301 Park Ave between E 49th and
50th sts. The solid mass of the
1931 Waldorf Astoria Hotel
holds its own, with a
resplendent statement of Art
Deco elegance and 1410
guestrooms. Duck inside to
stroll through a block of  THE CHRYSLER BUILDING

Contents Places
151

PLACES Midtown East


 UNITED NATIONS SCULPTURE

the 1958 Seagram Building was the tower, is for the moment all
the seminal curtain-wall you can see of the building’s
skyscraper. Its floors are interior.
supported internally, allowing
for a skin of smoky glass and Citicorp Center
whisky-bronze metal. Every Lexington Ave between E 53rd and
interior detail – from the 54th sts. Completed in 1979, the
fixtures to the lettering on the chisel-topped Citicorp Center is
mailboxes – was specially one of Manhattan’s most
designed.The plaza, an open conspicuous landmarks.The
forecourt designed to set the slanted roof was designed to
building apart from its house solar panels to provide
neighbors, was such a success as power for the building, and it
a public space that the city adopted the distinctive building-
revised the zoning laws to top as a corporate logo. Inside,
encourage other high-rise there’s also a small St Peter’s
builders to supply plazas. Church, known as “the Jazz
Church” for being the venue of
The Chrysler Building many a jazz musician’s funeral.
405 Lexington Ave between E 42nd and
E 43rd sts. One of Manhattan’s The United Nations
best-loved structures, the Guided tours daily, weekdays
Chrysler Building dates from a 9.30am–4.45pm, weekends
time (1928–30) when architects 10am–4.30pm; $10, seniors $7.50,
married prestige with grace and students $6.50 t212/963-8687,
style.The car-motif friezes, wwww.un.org/MoreInfo/pubsvs. A
jutting gargoyles, and arched must visit for those interested
stainless-steel pinnacle give the in global goings on, the United
solemn midtown skyline a Nations complex comprises the
welcome whimsical touch.The glass-curtained Secretariat, the
lobby, once a car showroom, curving sweep of the General
with its walls covered in African Assembly, and, connecting
marble and murals depicting them, the low-rising
airplanes, machines, and the Conference Wing. Tours –
brawny builders who worked on bring ID for security purposes

Contents Places
152
– take in the UN conference JR Cigar
chambers and its constituent 562 5th Ave at 46th St t212/997-
parts. Even more revealing than 2227. There are over 1000
the stately chambers are its different kinds of cigars on sale
thoughtful exhibition spaces here; its enormous – and
Midtown East PLACES

and artful country gifts on affordably priced – range


view, including a painting by includes the best, as well as
Picasso. some lesser-known brands.

Shops Niketown
6 E 57th St between 5th and Madison
aves t212/891-6453. A dubious
Bergdorf Goodman though impossible-to-miss
754 5th Ave at 58th St t212/753- attraction and unrestrained
7300. Housed in a former celebration of the sneaker that
Vanderbilt mansion, this needs to be seen to be believed.
venerable department store The overly earnest attempt at a
caters to the city’s wealthiest museum, laden with sound
clientele. Even if you can’t effects, space-age visuals, and
afford to shop, it’s still fun to exhibits inlaid into the floor,
browse and dream. walls, and special display cases
can’t mask the fact that it’s
Caswell-Massey Ltd basically a shop.
518 Lexington Ave at E 48th St
t212/755-2254. The oldest Saks Fifth Avenue
pharmacy in America, Caswell- 611 5th Ave at 50th St t212/753-
Massey sells a shaving cream 4000. Every bit as glamorous as
initially created for George it was when it opened in 1922,
Washington and a cologne Saks remains virtually
blended for his wife, as well as synonymous with style and
more mainstream items. quality. It has updated itself to
carry the merchandise of all the
big designers.

 CITICORP CENTER

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153
Takashimaya E 46th St t212/661-3400. Every
693 5th Ave at 54th St t212/350- sushi lover’s favorite sushi
0100. The NY outpost of the restaurant now has two branches.
famed Tokyo store features fine Not at all cheap, so try to get
Japanese and imported goods: there for the prix fixe lunch.

PLACES Midtown East


bath items, kitchen- and
tableware, and cosmetics.There’s Mee Noodle Shop and Grill
also a florist, gallery space, and 922 2nd Ave at E 49th St t212/888-
basement tearoom, a sublime 0027. A good alternative to the
(and reasonably priced) place to pricier Asian places in this area,
escape the bustle of midtown. Mee is a standard in-and-out joint
that does great soup noodles and
Tiffany & Co. other Chinese classics very fast
727 5th Ave at 57th St t212/755- and very well.
8000. If you’re keen to do more
than merely window-shop, Oyster Bar
Tiffany’s is worth a perusal, its Lower level, Grand Central Terminal at
soothing green marble and 42nd St and Park Ave t212/490-
weathered wood interior best 6650. Down in the vaulted
described by Truman Capote’s dungeons of Grand Central, the
fictional Holly Golightly: “It fabled Oyster Bar draws
calms me down right away . . . midtown office workers for
nothing very bad could happen lunch and all kinds of seafood
to you there.” lovers for dinner who choose
from a staggering menu
Restaurants featuring daily catches – she-
crab bisque, steamed Maine
lobster, and sweet Kumamoto
Comfort Diner oysters. Prices are moderate to
214 E 45th St between 2nd and 3rd expensive; you can eat more
aves t212/867-4555. One of the cheaply at the bar.
friendliest spots in town, this
retro diner serves up hearty Rosen’s Delicatessen
staples like meatloaf, fried 23 E 51st St between 5th and Madison
chicken, and macaroni and aves t212/541-8320. Enormous
cheese. It’s a great place to fill Art Deco restaurant, renowned
up and rest weary toes. for its pastrami and corned beef,
and handily situated for those
Four Seasons suffering from midtown
99 E 52nd St between Lexington and shopping fatigue. Good
Park aves t212/754-9494. Having breakfasts too.
epitomized NYC dining for
decades, this timeless Philip Smith & Wollensky
Johnson-designed restaurant 797 3rd Ave at E 49th St t212/753-
delivers on every front, especially 1530. Clubby atmosphere in a
its French-influenced American grand setting, where waiters –
menu. If you can’t swing the many of whom have worked
expense, go for a cocktail and here for twenty years or more –
peek at the pool room. serve you the primest cuts of
beef imaginable. Quite pricey –
Hatsuhana you’ll pay at least $33 a steak –
17 E 48th St between 5th and Madison but worth the splurge.
aves t212/355-3345; 237 Park Ave at

Contents Places
154
Solera this majestic space – built to
216 E 53rd St between 2nd and 3rd look like a thirteenth-century
aves t212/644-1166. Tapas and Florentine palace – was sealed
other Spanish specialties in a up for years. Now, it’s one of
stylish townhouse setting. As New York’s most distinctive
Midtown East PLACES

you’d expect from the bars. Go early and don’t wear


surroundings and the ambience, sneakers.
it can be expensive.
Divine Bar
Vong 244 E 51st St between 2nd and 3rd
200 E 54th St between 2nd and 3rd aves t212/319-9463. Although
aves t212/486-9592. This is an often packed with corporate
eccentrically, exotically types communing with their
decorated restaurant, whose cellphones, this swanky tapas
chefs take a French colonial lounge has a great selection of
approach to Thai cooking, wines and imported beers, not
putting mango in foie gras or to mention tasty appetizers and
sesame and tamarind on outdoor seating – a treat round
Moscovy duck; somehow it here.
works.You can get a “tasting
menu” of samples for the Lever House
bargain price of $72 per person. 390 Park Ave at E 53rd St t212/888-
2700. NYC’s newest
Bars power-drink scene is in a 1950s
landmark, that revolutionized
skyscraper design.The new
Bar and Books, Beekman interior strikes a balance
889 1st Ave at E 50th St t212/980- between retro and futuristic; it’s
9314. One of the few spots you worth a look and a cocktail, or
can still drink and smoke in the two – you never know whom
city (thanks to its cigar status), you’ll rub elbows with here.
this upper-crust bar attracts all
types, including a healthy P.J. Clarke’s
contingent of Wall Streeters. 915 3rd Ave at E 55th St t212/317-
1616. One of the city’s most
Campbell Apartment famous watering holes, this is a
southwest balcony in Grand Central spit-and-sawdust alehouse with
Terminal t212/953-0409. Once a restaurant out the back.You
home of businessman John W. may recognize it as the setting
Campbell, who oversaw the of the film The Lost Weekend.
construction of Grand Central,

Contents Places
155

Central Park
“All radiant in the magic atmosphere of art and taste,”
enthused Harper’s magazine upon the opening in 1876

PLACES Central Park


of Central Park, the first landscaped park in the US.
Today, few New Yorkers could imagine life without it.
Set smack in the middle of Manhattan, extending from
59th to 110th streets, it provides residents (and street-
weary tourists) with a much-needed refuge from the
arduousness of big-city life. The two architects commis-
sioned to design the then 843 swampy acres, Frederick
Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, were inspired by classic
English landscape gardening. They designed 36 elegant
bridges, each unique, and planned a revolutionary sys-
tem of four sunken transverse roads to segregate differ-
ent kinds of traffic. As New York grew, urban leisure
time and the park’s popularity increased. Today,
although the skyline has changed greatly and some of
the open space has been turned into asphalted play-
grounds, the intended sense of captured nature largely
survives.

Wollman Memorial Ice wwww.centralpark.org/find/wildlife.


Skating Rink This small zoo contains over a
Oct–April Mon & Tues 10am–3pm, Wed hundred species in largely
& Thurs 10am–10pm, Fri & Sat natural-looking homes with the
10am–11pm, Sun
10am–9pm weekdays
$8.50, weekends $11,
children $4.50 t212/439-
6900. Sit or stand
above the rink to
watch skaters and
contemplate the view
of Central Park South
or the skyline
emerging above the
trees. Or rent your
own ice skates in
winter or rollerblades
in summer.

Central Park Zoo


April–Oct Mon–Fri
10am–5pm, Sat & Sun
10am–5.30pm Nov–March
daily 10am–4.30pm $6,
ages 3–12 $1, under 3 free
t212/439-6500,  SKATERS IN CENTRAL PARK

Contents Places
156
animals as close to the
CENTRAL PARK NORTH M EAST 110TH ST. viewer as possible: the
Charles A. Dana
Blockhouse
Discovery Center E. 109TH ST. penguins, for example,
0 400 yds
Harlem
E. 108TH ST.
swim around at eye-
Meer
Lasker E. 107TH ST.
level in Plexiglas
Central Park PLACES

Great Pool and Rink E. 106TH ST. pools. Other


Hill Conservatory attractions include
W. 105TH ST.
Garden E. 105TH ST.
polar bears, monkeys,
h
W. 104TH ST.
Loc
E. 104TH ST.

A V E N U E
MANHATTAN AVE.

M E. 103RD ST.
nocturnal creatures,
l and sea lions cavorting
Poo
E. 102ND ST.

E. 101TH ST. in a pool right by the


W. 100TH ST. North zoo entrance.The
Meadow
W. 99TH ST. East complex also features
F I F T H
Recreation
Meadow
W. 98TH ST. Center E. 98TH ST. the Tisch Children’s
W. 97TH ST.
Tennis
E. 97TH ST. Zoo, with a petting
W. 96TH ST. M Courts E. 96TH ST. zoo and interactive
W E S T

W. 95TH ST. E. 95TH ST. displays.


W. 94TH ST. E. 94TH ST.
W. 93RD ST. Reservoir E. 93RD ST. The Carousel
P A R K

W. 92ND ST. E. 92ND ST.


Daily 10.30am–6pm
W. 91ST ST.
N Main Entrance E. 91ST ST. weather permitting 90c
to Reservoir Track
W. 90TH ST.
t212/879-0244. About
C E N T R A L

E. 90TH ST.
& Road Runners
W. 89TH ST. Club Booth E. 89TH ST.
mid-park at 65th
W. 88TH ST. E. 88TH ST.
Street, you will see the
W. 87TH ST. E. 87TH ST.
octagonal brick
M
W. 86TH ST. E. 86TH ST.
building housing the
Police Precinct
W. 85TH ST. E. 85TH ST.
Carousel. Built in
E. 84TH ST.
W. 84TH ST. Great 1903 and moved to
Lawn E. 83RD ST.
W. 83RD ST.
Metropolitan
the park from Coney
E. 82ND ST.
W. 82ND ST.
Delacorte
Museum Island in 1951, this
of Art E. 81ST ST.
W. 81ST ST. M Swedish
Theater
Obelisk
vintage carousel, one
E. 80TH ST.
Cottage Belvedere Castle of fewer than 150 old
E. 79TH ST.
carousels left in the
Shakespeare
Garden
E. 78TH ST. country, is one of the
W. 77TH ST. Ramble
Alice in
E. 77TH ST.
park’s little gems.
E. 76TH ST.
W. 76TH ST. Loeb Boathouse & Wonderland
Statue
W. 75TH ST. The Boathouse Café E. 75TH ST.
The Mall
Lake Conservatory Krebs
W. 74TH ST.
Water Memorial If the weather’s nice
W. 73RD ST. Bow Bridge Hans Christian E. 73RD ST.
Andersen Statue
head straight to the
W. 72ND ST. M Strawberry
Fields Bethesda
E. 72ND ST.
Mall to witness every
Bandshell
W E S T

W. 71ST ST.
Fountain E. 71ST ST.
manner of street
W. 70TH ST. Rumsey
Playfield
E. 70TH ST.
performer. Flanked by
W. 69TH ST. E. 69TH ST.
statues of the ecstatic-
A V E N U E
P A R K

THE M

W. 68TH ST. E. 68TH ST.


Sheep
Meadow
looking Scottish poet
ALL

W. 67TH ST. E. 67TH ST.

W. 66TH ST. E. 66TH ST.


Robert Burns and a
Tavern on the Green
pensive Sir Walter
C E N T R A L

W. 65TH ST. Dairy E. 65TH ST.


Carousel Scott, with
F I F T H

W. 64TH ST. E. 64TH ST.


Chess & Checkers Central
Pavilion Park Zoo Shakespeare and
BR

E. 63RD ST.
Heckscher Ludwig van
OA

E. 62ND ST.
House Wollman
Beethoven nearby, the
DW

Memorial Rink M E. 61ST ST.


AY

W. 60TH ST.
COLUMBUS
Mall is the park’s most
W. 59TH ST. M CIRCLE CENTRAL PARK SOUTH formal, but by no
means quiet, stretch.

Contents Places
157
At the southern base
of the Mall is the
only
acknowledgment to
park architect

PLACES Central Park


Olmsted – a small
flowerbed with a
dedication plaque.

The Sheep
Meadow
Between 66th and
69th streets on the
western side, this
swath of green is
named for the fifteen
acres of commons
where sheep grazed
until 1934.Today, the
area is crowded in
the summer with
picnic blankets,
sunbathers, and
Frisbee players.Two
grass courts used for
 A CARRIAGE RIDE IN THE PARK
lawn bowling and
croquet are found on a hill near area between the Sheep
the meadow’s northwest corner; Meadow and the north end of
to the southeast lie volleyball the Mall becomes filled with
courts. On warm weekends, the colorfully attired rollerbladers

Visiting the park


Central Park is so enormous that it’s almost impossible to cover it in one visit.
Nevertheless, the intricate footpaths that meander with no discernible organiza-
tion through it are one of its greatest successes. If you do get lost and need to fig-
ure out exactly where you are, find the nearest lamppost: the first two digits on
the post signify the number of the nearest cross street. It is also helpful to stop by
one of the four Visitor Centers (at Belvedere Castle, The Dairy, Charles A. Dana
Discovery Center, and Harlem Meer) to pick up a free map. As for safety, you
should be fine during the day, though always try to avoid being alone in an isolat-
ed part of the park. Organized walking tours are available from a number of
sources including the Urban Park Rangers and the Visitor Centers, but one of the
best ways to explore the park is to rent a bicycle from either the Loeb Boathouse
(between 74th and 75th sts, roughly $9–15 an hour) or Metro Bicycles (Lexington
at E 88th St; $7 per hour; t212/427-4450). Otherwise, it’s easy to get around on
foot, along the many paths that criss-cross the park. If you want to see the build-
ings illuminated from the park at night, one option is to fork out for a carriage ride;
the best place to pick up a hack is along Central Park South, between Fifth and
Sixth avenues. A twenty-minute trot costs approximately $35, excluding tip, and
$10 for every additional 15min after that; t212/246-0520.
For general park information T212/360-3444 or t212/310-6600, Wwww
.centralparknyc.org.

Contents Places
158
dancing to loud funk, disco, and iron and wood Bow Bridge,
hip-hop music – one of the best designed by park architect
free shows around town. Calvert Vaux.

Bethesda Terrace and The Ramble


Central Park PLACES

Fountain Directly over Bow Bridge from


The only formal element of the Loeb Boathouse you’ll find
original Olmsted and Vaux plan, yourself in the unruly woods of
the Bethesda Terrace overlooks The Ramble, a 37-acre area
the lake; beneath the terrace is filled with narrow winding
an arcade whose tiled floors and paths, rock outcroppings,
elaborate decoration are streams, and an array of native
currently being restored.The plant life that should definitely
crowning centerpiece of the be avoided at night.
Bethesda Fountain is the
nineteenth-century Angel of the Strawberry Fields
Waters sculpture; its earnest, This peaceful pocket of the park
puritanical angels (Purity, is dedicated to the memory of
Health, Peace, and Temperance) John Lennon, who was murdered
continue to watch reproachfully in 1980 in front of his then-
over their wicked city. home, the Dakota Building on
Central Park West.The tragic
Loeb Boathouse and around event is memorialized with a
March–Oct daily 10am–6pm, weather round Italian mosaic with the
permitting $10 for the first hour, and word “Imagine” at its center,
$2.50 per 15min after $30 deposit donated by Lennon’s widow,
required t212/517-2233. You can Yoko Ono, and invariably
go for a Venetian-style gondola covered with flowers. Every year
ride or rent a rowboat from the without fail on December 8th,
Loeb Boathouse on the lake’s the anniversary of Lennon’s
eastern bank – a thoroughly murder, Strawberry Fields is
enjoyable way to spend an packed with his fans, singing
afternoon. Across the water, at Beatles songs and sharing their
the narrowest point on the grief.
lake, stands the elegant cast-

 THE IMAGINE MOSAIC, STRAWBERRY FIELDS

Contents Places
159
The Great Lawn
Reseeded and
renewed, the Great
Lawn hosts free
New York
Philharmonic and
Metropolitan Opera
summertime
concerts, features
eight softball fields,

Central Park
and, at its northern
end, new basketball
and volleyball courts
and a running track.
At the southern end
of the lawn, the
refurbished Turtle
Pond, with its new
wooden dock and
nature blind, is a fine
place to view
aquatic wildlife.

Belvedere Castle  BELVEDERE CASTLE


The highest point in
the park (and therefore a The Reservoir
splendid viewpoint), Belvedere There are fewer attractions and
Castle, designed by park more open space above the
architect Vaux and his longtime Great Lawn, much of which is
assistant, Jacob Wrey Mould, taken up by “the Reservoir.”
houses the New York The 107-acre, billion-gallon
Meteorological Observatory’s body of water is no longer
weather center, responsible for active as a reservoir and is now
providing the official daily better known for the raised
Central Park temperature 1.58-mile running track that
readings. First erected in 1869 as encircles it. Disciplined New
a lookout, it is now the home of Yorkers faithfully jog here, and
the Urban Park Rangers and a the New York Road Runners’
Visitor Center (Tues–Sun Club has a booth at the main
10am–5pm; t212/772-0210; entrance.
walking tours, bird-watching
excursions, and educational Conservatory Garden
programs). If you see nothing else above
86th Street in the park, don’t
Delacorte Theater miss the Conservatory Garden, a
t212/539-8750, pleasing, green space featuring
wwww.publictheater.org. This English, French, and Italian
performance space is home to all styles filled with flowering trees
manner of concerts and the and fanciful fountains. It’s a
thoroughly enjoyable Shakespeare great place to stop for a break
in the Park in the summer. while navigating Fifth Avenue’s
Tickets are free but go quickly; Museum Mile.
visit the website for details.

Contents Places
Central Park PLACES 160

 THE DAIRY

Cafés Restaurants
Boathouse Café Tavern on the Green
Central Park Rowboat Lake, E 72nd St Central Park West between W 66th and
entrance t212/517-2233. This is a W 67th sts t212/873-3200. This
peaceful retreat from a hard fantastical if tacky tourist trap
day’s trudging around the Fifth remains a New York institution.
Avenue museums, or a romantic The American and Continental
evening destination.You get cuisine has improved in recent
great views of the celebrated years, and on Thursday evenings
skyline and surprisingly good during warmer months, there’s
food, but prices can be steep. dancing under the stars on its
Open year-round. terrace overlooking the park.

 BOW BRIDGE

Contents Places
161

The Upper East Side


The defining characteristic of Manhattan’s Upper East
Side is wealth, which, of course, has its privileges.

PLACES The Upper East Side


While other neighborhoods were penetrated by immi-
grant groups and artistic trends, the area has remained
primarily an enclave of the well-off, with upscale shops,
clean and relatively safe streets, well-preserved build-
ings and landmarks, most of the city’s finest museums,
and some of its most famous boulevards: Fifth,
Madison, and Park avenues.
Fifth Avenue The Frick Collection
The haughty patrician face of 1 E 70th St at 5th Ave; Tues, Thurs, &
Manhattan since the 1876 Sat 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–9pm, Sun
opening of Central Park along 1–6pm; $12, students $5 t212/288-
which it runs, Fifth Avenue has 0700, wwww.frick.org. Formerly
lured the Carnegies, Astors, the house of Henry Clay Frick,
Vanderbilts,Whitneys, and probably the most ruthless of
others north to build their New York’s robber barons, this
fashionable Neoclassical handsome spread is now the
residences.Through the latter tranquil home of the Frick
part of the nineteenth century, Collection.This legacy of his
fanciful mansions were built at self-aggrandizement affords a
vast expense, but then lasted revealing glimpse into the
only ten or fifteen years before sumptuous life enjoyed by the
being demolished for even city’s big industrialists.The
wilder extravagances or, more collection includes paintings by
commonly, grand apartment Reynolds, Hogarth,
buildings. As Fifth Avenue Gainsborough, Bellini, El Greco,
progresses north, it turns into and Vermeer.The West Gallery
the Museum Mile, New York’s holds Frick’s greatest prizes: two
greatest concentration of art and Turners, views of Cologne and
exhibition spaces – several of Dieppe; van Dyck’s informal
them, like the Frick Collection, portraits of Frans Snyders and
housed in the few remaining his wife; and a set of piercing
mansions. self-portraits by Rembrandt,
along with his enigmatic Polish
Temple Emanu-El Rider.
5th Ave and E 65th St Sun–Thurs
10am–4.30pm, Fri 10am–3.30pm, Sat The Metropolitan Museum of
noon–5pm free t212/744-1400. Art
America’s largest reform 5th Ave at E 82nd St; Tues–Thurs &
synagogue, the Temple Emanu- Sun 9.30am–5.15pm, Fri & Sat
El, is a brooding, 9.30am–8.45pm suggested donation
Romanesque–Byzantine cavern. $12, students $7 T212/535-7710,
As you enter, the interior seems Wwww.metmuseum.org. The
to melt away into darkness, foremost art museum in
making you feel very small America, the Metropolitan
indeed. Museum of Art (or the Met) was

Contents Places
E. 1 0 7 T H S T.

MADI
162 E. 106TH ST.

Museo del Barrio E . 1 0 5 T H S T.


RESTAURANTS
E . 1 0 4 T H S T. American Trash 14 Guastavino’s 21
Museum of the Aureole 19 Heidelburg 9
City of New York M
Barking Dog Hi-Life 13

FIRST AVENUE
SECOND AVENUE
E. 103RD S T. Luncheonette 1 L’Absinthe 17

THIRD AVENUE
Bistro du Nord 2 Metropolitan
EAST

E. 102ND ST. Café Sabarsky 7 Museum of Art 10


The Upper East Side PLACES

Mount
The Cocktail Mocca 11
E . 1 0 0 T H S T.
DRIV

Sinai Room 16 Payard Bistro 15


Hospital E . 9 9 T H S T.
Daniel 18 Sala Thai 5
E

Ecco-la 3 Serendipity 3 22
E . 9 8 T H S T. E.A.T. 12 Subway Inn 20
N E . 9 7 T H S T.
El Pollo 4 Wu Liang Ye 8
Elaine’s 6

E. 96TH M ST. 0 500 yds


E. 95TH S T.
O AD N O. 4
1
E . 9 4 T H S T. ACCOMMODATION
2 3 Mark B
EAST

A E . 9 3 R D S T.
Jewish Museum Wales A
E . 9 2 N D S T.
A V E N U E
DRIV E

FR
Cooper-Hewitt Ruppert Park

Ha
AN
E . 9 1 S T S T.
Museum

KLI

rle
4

ND
E . 9 0 T H S T.

m R
.
5

ROO
ervoir National Academy of Design E . 8 9 T H S T.

SEVE

iver
F I F T H

Guggenheim 6 Gracie
E . 8 8 T H S T. Mansion

LT D R
Museum
E . 8 7 T H S T.

IVE
7
AD E . 8 6 T H S T. M EAST END AVENUE Carl
NO.
3 8 9 Schurz
E . 8 5 T H S T. Park
A V E N U E

THIRD AVENUE

E . 8 4 T H S T.
SECOND AVENUE

10 Metropolitan
YORK AVENUE

Museum of Art E . 8 3 R D S T.

E . 8 2 N D S T.
11
YORKVILLE
Comic Strip Live
A V E N U E

E . 8 1 S T S T.
P A R K

12
AVENUE

E . 8 0 T H S T.
D NO . 2
E . 7 9 T H S T.
Orwasher’s 13
Vera Wang E . 7 8 T H S T.
Bakery
M A D I S O N

Bridal Salon M John Jay


B 14 Park
EA

Café Carlyle
LEXINGTON

E . 7 6 T H S T.
ST

Whitney
DRIVE

Museum E . 7 5 T H S T.
DRIVE

E . 7 4 T H S T.
15
E . 7 3 R D S T.
ROOSEVELT

St. James 16
Church E . 7 2 N D S T.

E . 7 1 S T S T. Asia Society
A V E N U E

AV E N U E

E . 7 0 T H S T.
A V E N U E

D.

Frick
A V E N U E
AV E N U E

Collection
FR ANK LI N

E . 6 9 T H S T.
1
Central Park

NO.
E . 6 8 T H S T. M
S E C O N D

17
F I F T H

Seventh
F I R S T

East
T H I R D

Regiment
Y O R K

Armory E . 6 6 T H S T.
River
18
Temple
Emanu-El E . 6 4 T H S T.
TH
EAS

M E . 6 3 R D S T. QUEENSBORO
BRIDGE
Shanghai Tang Tender Buttons
T

S T.
Mount Vernon
DR

E . 6 2 N D S T. Chicago City Limits


Hotel Museum
IV

Dylan’s Candy Bar


E

M Barney’s 19 20 and Garden


22 21
Bloomingdale’s The Terrence Conran Shop Roosevelt Island Tram
GRAND ARMY
PLAZA E . 5 9 T H S T. M

za Hotel C o n t e n t sSherry Netherland P l a c e s


163
designed in a Gothic Revival- Valley School glorified the
style brick, contrasting with the landscape in their vast lyrical
prevailing notion of the day that canvases.Thomas Cole, the
a museum should be a school’s doyen, is well
magnificent, daunting structure. represented, as is his pupil

PLACES The Upper East Side


The collection takes in over two Frederick Church.
million works and spans the The Met is particularly noted
cultures of America, Europe, for its European Painting,
Africa, the Far East, and the tracing several centuries’ worth
classical and Egyptian worlds. of art. Dutch painting is
Broadly, the museum breaks particularly strong, embracing an
down into seven major impressive range of
collections: European Art – Rembrandts, Hals,Vermeers –
Painting and Sculpture;Asian Art; his Young Woman with a Water
American Painting and Jug is a perfect example of his
Decorative Arts; Egyptian skill in composition and tonal
antiquities; Medieval Art;Ancient gradation, combined with an
Greek and Roman Art; and the uncannily naturalistic sense of
Art of Africa, the Pacific, and the lighting. Andrea Mantegna’s
Americas. dark, almost northern European
Among the undeniable Adoration of the Shepherds and
standouts of the collection is the Carlo Crivelli’s distended,
Temple of Dendur, built by the expressive figures in the
Emperor Augustus in 15 BC for Madonna and Child highlight the
the Goddess Isis of Philae and Met’s Italian Renaissance
moved here en masse as a gift of collection. Spanish painting is
the Egyptian government not as well represented, but you
during the construction of the will find such masters as Goya,
Aswan High Dam in 1965 Velázquez, and El Greco, whose
(otherwise it would have View of Toledo suggests a
drowned). Similarly transported brooding intensity as the skies
from its original site is Frank seem about to swallow up the
Lloyd Wright’s Room from the ghost-like town – arguably the
Little House, Minneapolis, which best of his works displayed
embodies the architect’s sleek, anywhere in the world.
horizontal aesthetic, from the The Museum’s Asian Art is
square chairs that are better to justly celebrated for its Japanese
look at than sit on to the screens and Buddhist statues,
windowed walls that blur but no trip is complete without
interior and exterior divisions. It stopping at the Chinese Garden
can be found in the American Court, a serene, minimalist
Wing, close to being a museum retreat enclosed by the galleries,
in its own right and a thorough and the adjacent Ming Room, a
introduction to the typical salon decorated in
development of fine art in period style with wooden
America. Early in the lattice doors.The naturally lit
nineteenth century, American garden is representative of one
painters embraced landscape found in Chinese homes: a
painting and nature.William pagoda, small waterfall, and
Sidney Mount depicted scenes stocked goldfish pond
of his native Long Island, often landscaped with limestone
with a sly political angle, and rocks, trees, and shrubs conjure
the painters of the Hudson up a sense of peace.

Contents Places
164
Whatever you do choose to by Frank Lloyd Wright, the
see, be sure if you come 1959 Guggenheim Museum is
between May through October better known for the building in
to ascend to the Cantor Roof which it’s housed than its
Garden (see p.170).The leafy collection. Its centripetal spiral
The Upper East Side PLACES

garden’s an outdoor gallery, ramp, which winds all the way


showcasing contemporary to its top floor, is still thought
sculpture; in summer it’s also by some to favor Wright’s
nominally a bar, though the talents over those of the artists
spotty drinks and pricey snacks exhibited. Much of the building
aren’t the reason to come here. is given over to temporary
What draws most is the views, exhibitions, but the permanent
from the skyscrapers of collection includes work by
midtown to the south to the Chagall, Léger, the major
park looming westwards. By far Cubists, and Kandinsky, as well
the best time to come for a as late nineteenth-century
cocktail is October, when the paintings, notably Degas’
weather’s cooler and the foliage Dancers, Modigliani’s Jeanne
everywhere is turning. Héburene with Yellow Sweater, and
some sensitive early Picassos.
The Guggenheim Museum
1071 5th Ave at E 89th St; Sat–Wed National Academy of Design
10am–5.45pm, Fri 10am–8pm; $15, 1083 5th Ave between E 89th and
students and seniors $10, under 12 90th sts; Wed & Thurs noon–5pm,
free, Fri 6–8pm pay what you wish Fri, Sat, & Sun 11am–6pm; $8,
t212/423-3500, students and seniors $4.50
wwww.guggenheim.org. Designed t212/369-4880,
wwww.nationalacademy.org. A trip
to the National Academy of
Design, founded in 1825 along
the lines of London’s Royal
Academy, is more like a visit to
a favorite relative’s house than
to a museum. The building is
an imposing Beaux Arts
townhouse, complete with
carpeted rooms, a twisting
staircase, and a fine collection
of nineteenth- through
twenty-first century painting,
highlighted by landscapes of
the Hudson Valley School.
Anna Huntington’s sculpture
Diana gets pride of place
below the cheerful rotunda.

Cooper-Hewitt National
Design Museum
2 E 91st St at 5th Ave; Tues–Thurs
10am–5pm, Fri 10am–9pm, Sat
10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm $8,
students and seniors $5 t212/849-
 THE GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM 8400, wwww.ndm.si.edu. When he

Contents Places
 COOPER-HEWITT MUSEUM
165
Museum of the City of New
York
1220 5th Ave at E 103rd St; Wed–Sun
10am–5pm, groups only Tues;
suggested donation $7, students $4

PLACES The Upper East Side


t212/534-1672, wwww.mcny.org.
Spaciously housed in a neo-
Georgian mansion, the
permanent collection of this
museum provides a
comprehensive and fascinating
look at the evolution of the city
from Dutch times to the
present, with prints,
photographs, costumes,
furniture, and film. One of its
permanent exhibits, New York
Toy Stories, affords an engaging
trip from the late 1800s to today
decided in 1898 to build at that consists of all manner of
what was then the motion toys, board games, sports
unfashionable end of Fifth equipment, and dollhouses.
Avenue, millionaire industrialist
Andrew Carnegie asked for “the Madison Avenue
most modest, plainest and most An elegant shopping street,
roomy house in New York.” Madison Avenue is lined with
Today, this wonderful top-notch designer clothes
Smithsonian-run institution is stores (some of whose doors are
the only museum in the US kept locked), and is enhanced by
devoted exclusively to historic the energizing presence of the
and contemporary design. Its Whitney Museum of American
temporary exhibits range in Art. Providing a counterpoint,
theme from fashion to furniture the stately St James’ Church at
to industrial design. 865 Madison Avenue, where the
funeral service for Jacqueline
Jewish Museum Onassis was held, features a
1109 5th Ave at E 92nd St; Sun–Wed graceful Byzantine altar.
11am–5.45pm, Thurs 11am–8pm, Fri
11am–3pm $10, students and seniors The Whitney Museum of
$7.50, under 12 free, Thurs 5–9pm American Art
free t212/423-3200, 945 Madison Ave at E 75th St;
wwww.jewishmuseum.org. With Tues–Thurs, Sat, & Sun 11am–6pm, Fri
over 28,000 items, this is the 1–9pm $10, students $8 t212/570-
largest museum of Judaica 3676, wwww.whitney.org. Boasting
outside Israel. A collection of some of the best gallery space in
Hanukkah lamps is a highlight, the city, the Whitney is the
although you will find yourself perfect forum for one of the
here to view one of the pre-eminent collections of
museum’s changing displays of twentieth-century American art.
works by major international It holds great temporary
Jewish artists, such as Chagall exhibitions, including the
and Soutine. Whitney Biennial, which gives a
provocative overview of what’s

Contents Places
166
happening in contemporary that included Louis Comfort
American art.The fifth floor Tiffany and Stanford White.
takes you from Edward Hopper
to the mid-century, while the The Asia Society Museum
second floor brings you from 725 Park Ave at E 70th St Tues–Sun
The Upper East Side PLACES

Jackson Pollock up through the 11am–6pm, Fri until 8pm $7, students
present day.The collection is and seniors $5, free Fri 6–9pm
particularly strong on Marsden t212/517-ASIA, wwww
Hartley, Georgia O’Keeffe, and .asiasocietymuseum.com. A
such Abstract Expressionists as prominent educational resource
Pollock,Willem de Kooning, on Asia founded by John D.
and Mark Rothko. Rockefeller 3rd, the Asia Society
offers an exhibition space
Park Avenue dedicated to both traditional
Residential Park Avenue is and contemporary art from all
stolidly comfortable and often over Asia. In addition to the
elegant, sweeping down the spine usually worthwhile temporary
of upper Manhattan. One of the exhibits, intriguing
best features of this boulevard is performances, political
the awe-inspiring view south, as roundtables, lectures, films, and
Park Avenue coasts down to the free events are frequently held.
New York Central and Met Life
buildings. In the low 90s, the Mount Vernon Hotel Museum
large black shapes of the Louise & Garden
Nevelson sculptures stand out on 421 E 61st St; Tues–Sun 11am–4pm,
the traffic islands. June–July open Tues 11am–9pm;
closed in August; $5, students and
Seventh Regiment Armory seniors $5, under 12 free; t212/838-
643 Park Ave between E 66th and 6878, wwww.mountvernonhotel
67th sts; t212/744-8180.The museum.org. This historical
Seventh Regiment Armory was interpretation of the Mount
built in the 1870s to serve the Vernon Hotel (1826–33) is
militia, but is now best known housed in an eighteenth-century
for its fine art fairs and the building that managed to survive
prestigious Winter Antiques by the skin of its teeth.The
Show. Inside, the armory furnishings, knickknacks, and the
features a grand double stairway serene little park out back are
and spidery wrought-iron more engaging than the house
chandeliers, along with two itself, unless you’re lucky enough
surviving interiors – the to be guided around by a
Veterans’ Room and the chattily urbane Colonial Dame –
Library, executed by the firm a handful are guides here.

 PARK AVENUE

Contents Places
167
Bloomingdale’s
1000 3rd Ave at E 59th St t212/705-
2000. One of Manhattan’s most
famous department stores,
“Bloomies” is packed with

PLACES The Upper East Side


designer clothiers, perfume
concessions, and the like.

Dylan’s Candy Bar


1011 3rd Ave at E 60th St t646/735-
0078. A sweet-tooth’s dream,
Dylan’s comprises two floors
chock full of 5000 candies, as
 GRACIE MANSION well as an ice cream and soda
fountain.
Gracie Mansion and Carl
Schurz Park Orwasher’s Bakery
At E 89th St and East End Ave; tours 308 E 78th St between 1st and 2nd
on Wed, late March through mid-Nov; aves t212/288-6569. Since 1916,
suggested admission $4, students and this kosher Old World bakery
seniors $3 reservations required has been churning out excellent
t212/570-4751, wwww.nyc.gov. raisin pumpernickel and
One of the city’s best-preserved challahs. It’s a blast from your
colonial buildings, this 1799 grandmother’s past.
mansion has served as the
official residence of the mayor Shanghai Tang
of New York City since 1942 714 Madison Ave between E 63rd and
(though the current mayor, 64th Sts t212/888-0111. Fine
billionaire Michael Bloomberg, Chinese-inspired fashions and
decided to forgo residence here housewares for those who crave
altogether in favor of his own, mandarin collars and silk shades.
much plusher digs). Adjacent
Carl Schurz Park with its Tender Buttons
riverside promenade is an 143 E 62nd St between Lexington and
exceptionally well-manicured Third aves t212/758-7004. This
and maintained park, mainly precious boutique sells unusual
because of the high-profile and antique buttons and
security that surrounds Gracie fasteners.
Mansion.
The Terrence Conran Shop
Shops 407 E 59th St at 1st Ave t212/755-
9079. The celebrated design
guru’s collection of favorite
Barney’s goods for the home are available
660 Madison Ave at E 61st St here – and surprisingly affordable.
t212/826-8900. The hippest and
most fashion-forward of the big Vera Wang Bridal Salon
NYC department stores. Check 991 Madison Ave at E 77th St
the website for dates of its t212/628-3400. Gorgeous
famous semi-annual warehouse gossamer bridal gowns, but
sales, where couture bargains sensitive brides should steer
(and catfights) abound. clear – the attitude here
abounds.

Contents Places
168
Cafés
Café Sabarsky in the Neue
Gallery
The Upper East Side PLACES

1048 5th Ave at E 86th St t212/288-


0665. Try to get a table by the
window at this sumptuous
Viennese café with great pastries  CHOCOLATES AT THE PAYARD BISTRO

and coffees. Simply one of the


most civilized places in the feel at home, especially with the
neighborhood for a pick-me-up. puppy motif.

Payard Bistro Bistro du Nord


1032 Lexington Ave between E 73rd 1312 Madison Ave at E 93rd St
and 74th sts t212/717-5252. Don’t t212/289-0997. A cozy bistro
mind the snooty staff – just go with excellent Parisian fare.Very
for the chocolates and indulge stylish atmosphere with
yourself. moderate to expensive prices –
entrees run $19–26.Try the
Serendipity 3 duck confit.
225 E 60th St between 2nd and 3rd
aves t212/838-3531. Adorned Daniel
with Tiffany lamps, this long- 60 E 65th St between Madison and
established eatery/ice-cream Park aves t212/288-0033. One of
parlor is celebrated for its frozen the best French restaurants in
hot chocolate, a trademarked New York City, Daniel offers
and copyrighted recipe, which is upscale and expensive fare from
out of this world; the wealth of celebrity chef Daniel Boulud.
ice cream offerings are a real The fava-encrusted halibut is
treat, too. truly amazing.

Restaurants E.A.T.
1064 Madison Ave between E 80th and
81st sts t212/772-0022. Expensive
Aureole and crowded but the food’s
34 E 61st St between Madison and excellent (celebrated restaurateur
Park aves t212/319-1660. Magical and gourmet grocer Eli Zabar is
French-accented American food the owner).Try the soups and
in a gorgeous old brownstone breads, and the ficelles and
setting.The prix-fixe options Parmesan toast; the mozzarella,
should bring the cost down to basil, and tomato sandwiches are
$70 per head, but it’s also worth fresh and heavenly.
stopping by just for the show-
stopping desserts. Ecco-la
1660 3rd Ave between E 92nd and
Barking Dog Luncheonette 93rd sts t212/860-5609. Unique
1678 3rd Ave at E 94th St t212/831- pasta combinations at very
1800; also 1453 York Ave at E 77th St moderate prices make this one
t212/861-3600. This diner-like of the Upper East Side’s most
place offers outstanding, cheap popular Italians. It’s a real find, if
American food (like mashed you don’t mind waiting.
potatoes and gravy). Kids will

Contents Places
169
El Pollo L’Absinthe
1746 1st Ave between E 90th and 91st 227 E 67th St between 2nd and 3rd
sts t212/996-7810. For a quick aves t212/794-4950. Fine French
bite that’s both tasty and cheap food served in a yellow-hued
try the Peruvian-style rotisserie setting with etched glass. Its

PLACES The Upper East Side


chicken that’s dusted with spices atmosphere and fare are perfect
and set to cook over a spit. for a romantic night out.
Bring your own wine.
Mocca
Elaine’s 1588 2nd Ave between E 82nd and
1703 2nd Ave between E 88th and 83rd sts t212/734-6470. Yorkville
89th sts t212/534-8103. Once restaurant serving hearty
favored by Woody Allen and portions of Hungarian comfort
New York’s elite, this Upper food – schnitzel, cherry soup,
East Side literary spot still goulash, and chicken paprikash,
manages to draw the odd among others. Moderately
celebrity.The pricey Italian food priced, but be sure to come
is fine, but most go for the hungry.
occasional sighting.
Sala Thai
Guastavino’s 1718 2nd Ave between E 89th and
409 E 59th St between 1st and York 90th sts t212/410-5557. Pleasant
aves t212/980-2455. This decor and good service
magnificent, soaring space distinguish the best Thai
underneath the Queensboro restaurant in the neighborhood,
Bridge is a hot-spot for beautiful which serves creative
people who come to drink combinations of hot and spicy
flirtinis and choose from a Thai food for about $15 a head.
dizzying array of seafood dishes.
Book upstairs for a quieter meal. Wu Liang Ye
215 E 86th St between 2nd and 3rd
Heidelburg aves t212/534-8899. The
1648 2nd Ave between E 85th and excellent, authentic Szechuan
86th sts t212/628-2332. The menu here features dishes
atmosphere here is mittel- you’ve never seen before, and, if
European kitsch, with you like spicy food, you will not
gingerbread trim and be disappointed.
waitresses in
Alpine
goatherd
costumes. But
the food is the
real deal,
featuring
excellent liver
dumpling soup,
Bauernfrühstück
omelets, and
pancakes (both
sweet and
potato).

 THE ROOF GARDEN AT THE MET

Contents Places
170
to live chamber
music (Fri and
Sat 5–8.30pm).

Subway Inn
The Upper East Side PLACES

143 E 60th St at
Lexington Ave
t212/223-8929.
A neighborhood
anomaly, this
 PIG HEAVEN downscale dive
bar is great for a late-afternoon
Bars beer – and the perfect retreat
after a visit to Bloomingdale’s
American Trash just across the street.
1471 1st Ave between E 76th and 77th
sts t212/988-9008. Self-styled
“professional drinking Clubs and music
establishment” has a friendly
barstaff, a pool table, a sing-a- venues
long jukebox, and a happy hour
dedicated to getting you there.
Café Carlyle
The Cocktail Room The Carlyle Hotel, 35 E 76th St at
334 E 73rd St between 1st and 2nd Madison Ave t212/570-7175. This
aves t212/988-6100. Fancy bar, stalwart venue is home to both
with couches, dim lighting, and Bobby Short and Woody Allen,
a modish 1960s theme. Popular who plays his clarinet with his
with singles and groups who go jazz band here on Monday
to lounge on the couches in the nights ($75 cover). Other shows
back, The Cocktail Room throbs run $50, and all shows are free if
on weekends. you book a table for dinner. Sets
are at 8.45pm and 10.45pm
Hi-Life nightly.
1340 1st Ave at E 77nd St t212/249-
3600. A cozy bar/restaurant that Chicago City Limits
serves an odd combination of 1105 1st Ave at E 61st St t212/888-
classic American food and 5233. New York’s oldest
cocktails and sushi. Good prices improvisation theater plays one
and excellent service. comedy show nightly. Closed
Tues. Admission is $20, $8 on
Metropolitan Museum of Art Sun.
1000 5th Ave at E 82nd St t212/535-
7710. It’s hard to imagine a more Comic Strip Live
romantic spot to sip a glass of 1568 2nd Ave between E 81st and
wine, whether on the Cantor 82nd sts t212/861-9386.The
Roof Garden (open only in famed showcase draws stand-up
warm weather), enjoying one of comics going for the big time.
the best views in the city, or on Three shows Fri & Sat. Cover
the Great Hall Balcony listening $12–17, $12-drink minimum.

Contents Places
171

The Upper West Side


The Upper West Side has traditionally exuded a more
unbuttoned vibe than its counterpart across Central

PLACES The Upper West Side


Park. While over the years it has seen its share of strug-
gling actors, writers, opera singers, and the like move
in, there is plenty of money in evidence, especially in the
dazzling turn-of–the-nineteenth-century apartment
buildings along the lower stretches of Central Park
West and Riverside Drive, and at Lincoln Center, New
York’s palace of culture, but this is less true as you
move north. At its top end, marked at the edge by the
monolithic Cathedral of St John the Divine, lies
Morningside Heights, home to Columbia University on
the edge of Harlem.

Lincoln Center for the spare and elegant New York


Performing Arts State Theater. Informative one-
W 65th St at the intersection of hour historical tours ($12.50,
Broadway and Columbus Ave. A students $9, seniors $9;
marble assembly of buildings put t212/875-5350 to reserve)
up in the early 1960s on the site leave daily from 10am to
of some of the city’s worst slums 4.30pm from the main
that now hosts New York’s most concourse under the Center.
prestigious arts performances.
Home to the world-class The Dakota Building
Metropolitan Opera, the New 1 W 72nd St at Central Park West. So
York Philharmonic, and to a host named because at the time of its
of other smaller companies, the construction in 1884 its location
center is worth seeing even if was considered as remote as the
you don’t catch a performance. Dakota Territory.This grandiose
At the center of the complex, German Renaissance-style
the Metropolitan Opera House mansion, with turrets, gables,
is an impressive marble and and other odd details, was built
glass building, with murals by to persuade wealthy New
Marc Chagall behind each of Yorkers that life in an apartment
its high front windows. could be just as luxurious as in a
Flanking the Met stand Avery private house. Over the years,
Fisher Hall and Philip Johnson’s celebrity tenants have included
Lauren Bacall and
Leonard Bernstein,
yet the best-known
residents of the
Dakota were John
Lennon and his wife
Yoko Ono (who still
lives here). It was
outside the Dakota,
on the night of
 THE METROPOLITAN OPERA, LINCOLN CENTER December 8, 1980,

Contents Places
172 W. 1

A. C. POWELL JNR. BLVD


Grant's Tomb W. 1
W. 1

MORNINGSIDE AVE.

MANHATTAN AVENUE
Riverside Church

E I G H T H AV E N U E
W.
RESTAURANTS

CLAREMONT

B R O A D WAY
W.

ST.
Boat Basin Café 14

NIC
Café con Leche 12 1

HO
22

LAS
Café des Artistes Columbia
21

AV
Café Luxembourg University

EN
Café Mozart 20

UE
W. 116TH ST.
The Upper West Side PLACES

Calle Ocho 11 M W
M

H E N R Y H U DS O N PAR K WAY
Dead Poet 10
Dock’s Oyster Bar 6 W. 114TH ST. W. 114TH ST.
Dublin House Tap Room 13 2
W. 113TH ST. W. 113TH ST.
Edgar’s Café 7 3
Fine & Schapiro 18 MORNINGSIDE Cathedral of
Gennaro 5 St. John the Divine
HEIGHTS 4
Good Enough to Eat 9 M CATHEDRAL PARKWAY M CENTRA
Hunan Park 19 Strauss W. 109TH ST.
Hungarian Pastry Shop 4 Park

M A N H AT TA N AV E N U E
AM S TER D AM AV E NUE
15
Riverside Park W. 108TH ST.
La Caridad
Ouest 8 W. 107TH ST.

PARK WEST
Picholine 23 Smoke W. 106TH ST.
Shark Bar 17
1 W. 105TH ST.
DRIVE

Terrace in the Sky


Time Out 16 W. 104TH ST.
A
3
R IV E R S I D E

Tom’s Restaurant W. 103RD ST.

COLUMBUS AVENUE
2 M M
West End Café
J E R S E Y

W. 102ND ST.

CENTRAL
BROADWAY

W. 101ST ST.

VE
ACCOMMODATION W. 100TH ST.

I
Ce

W E ST DR
Amsterdam Inn E W. 99TH ST.
Hostelling International
WEST END AVENUE

W. 98TH ST.
– New York A
W. 97TH ST.
Lucerne C
Milburn D Pomander M W . 9 6 T H S T. M
Riverside Tower B Walk W. 95TH S T.
Symphony
Space W. 94TH ST.
W. 93RD ST. IVE
W. 92ND ST.
N E W

Murder
R

5
TD

Ink W. 91ST ST.


WES

6
W. 90TH ST. Res
H u d s o n W. 89TH ST.
R i v e r W. 88TH ST.
W. 87TH ST.
Barney Greengrass
M W. 86TH ST. M TRA N S
Riverside W. 85TH ST. Children’s Museum
Park W. 84TH ST. 7 of Manhattan
8
W. 83RD ST. 9 American Museum of
▲ W. 82ND ST. Natural History and
Mount 10 Hayden Planetarium
Tom W. 81ST ST. Maxilla & 11
VE

Zabar's 12 Mandible M
B
T DRI

H&H Bagels 13 C
CENTRAL PARK WEST

79th Street M W. 79TH ST.


Boat Basin 14 Apthorp 15 TRANSV
WES

Apartments Stand Up W. 78TH ST.


16
New York
W. 76TH ST. D
17 New-York P
Historical Society
Citarella E
Beacon
Theater
Eleanor Roosevelt Acker, Dakota
Memorial Merrall Apartments
W. 72ND ST. M
18
& Condit M
W. 71ST ST. Blades,
Board & 19
AMSTERDAM AVE.

W. 70TH ST.
Skate 20
H E N R Y H U D S O N PA R K WAY

FREEDOM PLA

21 W. 69TH ST.
WEST END AVENUE

N W. 67TH ST.
22
CE

M
T
W. 65TH ST.
23
BRO

W. 64TH ST.
AD
WA

Lincoln
Y

Center
0 500 yds
W. 60TH ST. COLUMBUS
W. 59TH ST. M CIRCLE CENTRAL
W 58TH ST

Contents Places
173
that the ex-Beatle was
shot by a man who
professed to be one of
his greatest admirers.

PLACES The Upper West Side


The New-York
Historical Society
2 W 77th St at Central Park
West Tues–Sun 10am–6pm;
suggested donation $8,
students $5, under 12 free
 THE DAKOTA BUILDING
t212/873-3400,
wwww.nyhistory.org. Often strange architectural melange of
overlooked, the New-York heavy Neoclassical and rustic
Historical Society is more a Romanesque styles that was
museum of American than New built in several stages, the first
York history. Its permanent by Calvert Vaux and Jacob Wrey
collection of books, prints, and Mould in 1872.The museum
portraits includes the work of boasts 32 million items on
naturalist James Audubon; a display, superb nature dioramas
broad sweep of nineteenth- and anthropological collections,
century American painting, interactive and multimedia
principally portraiture and displays, and an awesome
Hudson River School assemblage of bones, fossils, and
landscapes; and such diverse models.Top attractions range
items as the original Louisiana from the Dinosaur Halls to the
Purchase document and the Hall of Biodiversity, which
correspondence between Aaron focuses on both the ecological
Burr and Alexander Hamilton and evolutionary aspects of
that led up to their duel. nature. Other delights include
the massive totems in the Hall
The American Museum of of African Peoples, the
Natural History and the taxidermical marvels in North
Hayden Planetarium American Mammals (including
Central Park West at W 79th St; daily a vividly staged bull moose
10am–5.45pm suggested donation fight), and the two thousand
$12, students $9, children $7; IMAX gems in the Hall of Meteorites.
films, Hayden Planetarium, & special Across from the Hall of
exhibits extra t212/769-5100, Biodiversity lies the new Hall of
wwww.amnh.org.This elegant Planet Earth, a multimedia
giant fills four blocks with a exploration of how the earth
works, with displays
on a wide variety of
subjects such as the
formation of planets,
underwater rock
formation, plate
tectonics, and carbon
dating.The
centerpiece of the
room is the Dynamic
Earth Globe, where
 THE HAYDEN PLANETARIUM visitors seated below

Contents Places
174  CATHEDRAL OF ST JOHN THE DIVINE

the globe are able to watch the


earth via satellite go through its
full rotation, getting as close as
possible to the views astronauts
see from outer space.
The Upper West Side PLACES

Housed inside a metal and


glass sphere 87 feet in diameter,
the Hayden Planetarium screens
a visually impressive forty-
minute 3D film, “Passport to the
Universe,” in addition to the
ponderous “The Search for Life:
Are We Alone?” narrated by
Harrison Ford (both screened
throughout the day during open
hours; $22, students $16.50, and
children $13). For a head-trip of
a different sort, check out Sonic
Vision (Fri & Sat; 7.30pm,
8.30pm, 9.30pm, and 10.30pm; The Dr Seuss exhibit and the
$15), a “digitally animated book-filled storytelling room are
alternative music show,” which particular winners.
features groovy overhead
graphics and songs by bands Riverside Park and Riverside
such as Radiohead and Drive
Coldplay mixed by spin master One of only five designated
Moby. scenic landmarks in New York
City, Riverside Park runs north
Children’s Museum of along the Hudson River and
Manhattan West Side Highway from 72nd
212 W 83rd St at Broadway, Wed–Sun Street to West 155th Street. Not
10am–5pm; $7 T 212/721-1234, as imposing or spacious as
W www.cmom.org. This delightful Central Park, it was designed by
five-story space offers interactive the same team of architects,
exhibits that stimulate learning Olmsted and Vaux, who settled
in a fun, relaxed environment on its English pastoral style after
for kids (and babies) of all ages. some debate. Following the park
north, Riverside Drive is
flanked by palatial
townhouses and multi-
story apartment buildings
put up in the early part
of the twentieth century
by those not quite rich
enough to compete with
the folks on Fifth
Avenue. A number of
architecturally distinctive
historic landmark
districts lie along it,
particularly in the mid-
70s, mid-80s, and
 RIVERSIDE PARK low-100s.

Contents Places
175

PLACES The Upper West Side


 LOW LIBRARY, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY

Columbia University
The Cathedral of St John the Between Broadway and Morningside
Divine Drive from 114th to 120th sts. The
Amsterdam Ave at W 112th St, epicenter of Morningside
t212/316-7540. The largest Heights, Columbia University’s
church in the United States, the campus fills 36 acres. Established
Cathedral of St John the Divine in 1754, it is the oldest and most
rises up with a solid kind of revered university in the city and
majesty. A curious mix of one of the most prestigious
Romanesque and Gothic styles, academic institutions in the
the church was begun in 1892, country. After it moved from
though building stopped with midtown in 1897, McKim,
the outbreak of war in 1939 and Mead, and White led the way in
only sporadically resumed in the designing its new Italian
early 1990s; today, it’s still barely Renaissance-style campus, with
two-thirds finished. On the domed and colonnaded Low
completion (unlikely before Memorial Library at center stage.
2050), it will be the largest Tours (T212/854-4900) of the
cathedral in the world, its floor campus leave regularly Monday
space – 600ft long, and 320ft to Friday during the school year
wide at the transepts – big from the information office on
enough to swallow Notre Dame the corner of 116th Street and
and Chartres whole. Broadway.
Inside, note the intricately
carved wood Altar for Peace, the
Poets Corner (with the names of
Shops
American poets carved into its
stone block floor), and an altar Acker, Merrall & Condit
honoring AIDS victims.The 160 W 72nd St between Broadway and
amazing stained-glass windows Columbus Ave t212/787-1700. The
include scenes from American oldest wine store in America,
history among Biblical ones. founded in 1820, it boasts a very
Public guided tours are given wide selection from the US,
Tuesday through Saturday at especially California.
11am and Sunday at 1pm (one
one-hour tour per day); $5, Barney Greengrass
student and seniors $4 541 Amsterdam Ave between W 86th
T212/932-7347 for information. and 87th sts t212/724-4707.

Contents Places
176
Maxilla & Mandible
451 Columbus Ave between W 81st and
82nd sts t212/724-6173. Animal
and human bones for collectors,
scientists, or the curious.Worth a
The Upper West Side PLACES

visit even if you’re not in the


market for a perfectly preserved
male skeleton.

Murder Ink
2486 Broadway between W 92nd and
93rd sts t212/362-8905. The first
bookstore to specialize in
mystery and detective fiction in
the city, and the purportedly
oldest mystery bookstore in the
world. It claims to stock every
murder, mystery, or suspense
 COLUMBUS CIRCLE
title in print – and plenty out.
Around since time began, this
stellar West Side deli (and Zabar’s
restaurant), the self-styled 2245 Broadway at W 80th St
“Sturgeon King,” is celebrated t212/787-2000. A veritable
for its smoked salmon section. Upper West Side institution, this
The cheese blintzes are tasty, too. beloved family store offers a
quintessential taste of New York:
Blades, Board & Skate bagels, lox, all manner of
120 W 72nd St between Broadway and schmears, not to mention a
Columbus Ave t212/787-3911. For dizzying selection of gourmet
trips to nearby Central or goods at reasonable prices.
Riverside parks, rent or buy
your rollerblades, snowboards,
and the like here.
Cafés
Citarella Café Mozart
2135 Broadway at W 75th St 154 W 70th St between Central Park W
t212/874-0383. Famous for its and Columbus Ave T212/595-9797.
artistic window displays, the This faded old Viennese
largest and most varied fish and coffeehouse and Upper West
seafood store in the city, now Side institution serves rich tortes
offers gourmet baked goods, and apple strudel, among dozens
cheese, coffee, meat, and prepared of other cavity-inducing items.
food. It has a wonderful bar
serving prepared oysters, clams, Edgar’s Café
and the like to take away. 255 W 84th St between West End Ave
and Broadway T212/496-6126. A
H&H Bagels pleasant coffeehouse with good
2239 Broadway at W 80th St t1- (though expensive) desserts and
800/NY-BAGEL. Some of the best light snacks, great hot cider in the
bagels in New York are sold at winter, and well-brewed coffees
H & H, where they are said to and teas all the time. Named for
bake over 50,000 a day and ship Edgar Allen Poe, who at one time
them worldwide. lived a block or so farther east.

Contents Places
177
Hungarian Pastry Shop yet moderately priced,
1030 Amsterdam Ave between W contemporary French food.
110th and 111th sts T212/866-4230.
This simple coffeehouse is a Calle Ocho
favorite with Columbia 446 Columbus Ave between W 81st

PLACES The Upper West Side


University students and faculty. and 82nd sts t212/873-5025. Very
You can sip your espresso and tasty Latino fare, such as ceviches
read all day if you like – the and chimchuri steak with yucca
only problem is choosing fries, is served in an
among the pastries, cookies, and immaculately designed
cakes, all made on the premises. restaurant with a hopping bar,
whose mojitos are as potent as
Restaurants any in the city.

Dock’s Oyster Bar


Boat Basin Café 2427 Broadway between W 89th and
W 79th St at the Hudson River with 90th sts t212/724-5588. This
access through Riverside Park popular uptown seafooder has a
t212/496-5542. Open May raw bar with great mussels.The
through September, this Upper West Side is the original
inexpensive outdoor restaurant and tends to have the homier
with long views of the Hudson atmosphere – though both can
River serves standard burgers be noisy and service can be
with fries, hot dogs, sandwiches, slow. Reservations
and some more serious entrees recommended on weekends.
like grilled salmon. On weekend
afternoons live music adds to Fine & Schapiro
the ambience. 138 W 72nd St between