Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ST. petersburg
June - July 2013

Parks and Palaces
Visit the former homes of the Tsars

White Nights

Rooftop terraces and summer festivals

16+
June - July 2013 No89 st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents
Restaurants
Russian, Italian, rooftop terraces and more 25

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Foreword
A word from our editor 4 5 6 8

Nightlife 38 Bars, pubs and clubs – how to stay out till 6 am Sightseeing
The essentials Hermitage  42 43 48

News
What’s new in the city

Shopping
What to buy and where 

Basics and Language
Some useful information

Expat and Lifestyle 51 Expat Experience, Religious Services and more  Getting around
Transport, tickets and more 53 Maps 54

Culture and Events
Ballet, opera, concerts and exhibitions

Features
St. Petersburg’s Historical Outskirts Islands: Krestovsky and Yelagin  15 20 21

Russia
Moscow Veliky Novgorod and Staraya Russa Kazan Nizhny Novgorod 

Hotels
A fine selection of places to spend the night

58 59 61 64 66

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

4

Foreword
It’s official now. Summer is here. After the ridiculously long winter we can now finally enjoy the famous white nights and the magical midnight sun. We can attend amazing theatre programmes and open-air festivals and go on boat tours around the canals and have cocktails on the city’s best rooftop terraces. We can devour a perfect Russian shashlik at a street-side café and enjoy the classic sunbathing experience at the Peter and Paul Fortress beach. We can watch the bridges rise and get wet in the famous fountains in Peterhof. Please feel welcome, you have chosen the best time to be in St. Petersburg! This charming 310 year-old city has managed to preserve its glory and beauty despite neglect during the Soviet period and the siege by the Germans during WWII. It is still one of the most stunning cities in the world and one of the largest in Europe. The city’s founder, Peter the Great, moved his court from Moscow to the planned new settlement in 1703. The city was quickly hailed as a victory of man over nature as 40 islands were joined together by drawbridges at the Neva River delta. Yes, our city is literally built on islands, or to be more accurate, on beautiful islands! Please check our special feature on page 20 which is dedicated to two islands which are a must for summer visits because of their green parks, fresh air and, of course, the hottest bars and clubs in the city. With so many activities and so many places to see there’s something for everyone to enjoy. So, what are you waiting for? Put this guide in your pocket, grab your camera and go find out what makes this city so special. Our team is always happy to help you with your adventures.
Ksenia Elzes, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

news
Europe In Your Pocket
Northern Ireland Ireland Estonia Latvia Lithuania Belarus Poland Netherlands Germany Belgium Czech Republic Switzerland Ukraine Russia

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Russia Day
The youngest of Russia’s many public holidays, Russia Day is celebrated on the 12th of June. Originally it marked the adoption of the new Russian constitution during the breaking up of the Soviet Union. In 2002 the holiday was renamed Russia Day, taking on symbolism of national unity and collective responsibility for the present and future of Russia. There are often fireworks and concerts, but the Russians are generally relatively ambivalent towards this public holiday. Some see the holiday’s roots as negative, arguing that the introduction of a new Russian constitution sped up the collapse of the Soviet Union, for which there is substantial nostalgia. Nevertheless, everyone welcomes a day off work and an opportunity to spend some more time at the dacha. 12th June is a time to congratulate all Russian people and to toast to the prosperity of the country and it inhabitants.

Summer in New Holland

Italy

Austria Romania Slovenia Croatia Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo Albania Greece

Georgia

FYR Macedonia

Cover story
The beautiful golden sculpture you see on our cover is the famous Triton Fountain in Peterhof. It is situated in the Orangery Garden. The sculpture of Triton fighting with the sea monster surrounded by 4 bronze turtles was made after Rastrelli’s design in 1726. Please find more information about Peterhof in our special feature on page 15. Photo by Dreamstime.com.

It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

This artificial island in the centre of the city was built by Peter the Great in 1721 to be the first arsenal for his fleet of military ships. In later years it became a shipyard, then a naval prison and a Soviet radio station before falling into disuse and neglect. Finally the area has been put to good use again and functions as a summer cultural oasis. The Summer in New Holland program features farmers markets, cafes, urban gardening, concerts and DJ sets, craft fairs, garage sales, beach volleyball, art installations, lectures and workshops and plenty of space for picnics. Summer in New Holland will run until September 15, 2013, when the island will close for renovation, reopening in 2015. Entry to the island and all events are free. www.newhollandsp.ru

Stars of the White Nights
One of the most impressive music forums in Russia, this festival will be the platform for various ballets operas and symphonic programs. It was first held in 1993, it was conceived as a ‘musical gift’ to the city from the staff at the Mariinsky Theatre, and has since increased in length and variety. Each year the program comprises of the best ballet and opera performances from the Mariinsky Theatre, and this year promises to be no different. And accompanied by the beauty of the White Nights outside, who could complain? www.mariinsky.ru

Flames of Paris in The Mikhailovsky
This legendary ballet based on the events of the French Revolution became a true classic of Soviet musical theatre after it was first performed in 1932. Based on Felix Gras’ book ‘Les Marceliers’, its music takes inspiration from songs of the French Revolution, its choreography from both classical Russian ballet and international character dances, and its spirit from the early Soviet Union searching for like-minded success stories in the revolutions of global history. The new production of Flames of Paris has more than a hundred people working together to create a production that is both new and vivid but also brings back to life the original choreography and appearance of the show. Audiences in its early days would stand up and sing the Marseillaise along with the performers; today’s production tries to revive a little of that old romantic revolutionary spark. www.mikhailovsky.ru

Editorial department
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales & Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, No89, 01.06.2013, 90.000 copies © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl
Editor Ksenia Elzes, editor.spb@inyourpocket.com Layout & Design Malvina Markina design.russia@inyourpocket.com Research Elizaveta Bolshanina research.spb@inyourpocket.com PR Ksenia Elzes, pr-russia@inyourpocket.com Contributors Rhiannon Fuller, Natasha Douglas, Yaël Kaiser

Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз. No89. 01.06.2013

Commercial department
Sales Managers Evgenia Smirnova evgenia.smirnova@inyourpocket.com Peter Smirnov peter.smirnov@inyourpocket.com To order issues Tanya Kharitonova sales.russia@inyourpocket.com

No longer just a Window on Europe?
St. Petersburg may have been dubbed Peter the Great’s ‘window on Europe’, but in recent years it’s not just the Europeans who have been visiting the city. The number of tourists coming to St. Petersburg is on the up, and most of the new tourists are coming from Asia and the Pacific region, particularly from China. In 2012 the total number of visitors reached a staggering six million, with over half coming from abroad. And it’s not just tourists who are flocking to the city, either. 2012 saw the city host a number of international events, including the XVII International Economic Forum and the 36th session of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Committee, and 2013 is proving to be no different.

Singing telegrams
This is the first singing telegram service in St. Petersburg - or even in Russia - founded by two Russian girls: Vera Alexandrova and Marina Bakalova. This whole idea is not about professional singing or dancing, it is rather about bringing joy and unexpected emotions to people in the age of digital birthday cards. This service is for people who can not attend a party or see someone they love, but still want to send warm greetings and make a great surprise. The girls sing and do a little funny dance for people on their birthdays and weddings and parties in general. Like this idea? See more at www. facebook.com/singingtelegrams812

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2013. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Basics AND LANGUAGE
Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from; Russky Standart, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 23:00 and 08:00.

Basics AND LANGUAGE
Useful Phrases
Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky русски Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! I need some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не) нравиться May I? Mozhno? Можно? Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньше Large/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/ маленкий Good/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохо It hurts! Bolno! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Could you write it Zapishite Запишите, down? pazhalusta пожалуйста Toilets Tualet Туалет Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во time? сколько? What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? Who? Kto? Кто? How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? No problem Bez problem Без проблем Of course Koneshno Конечно Let's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе! Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! Password Parol Пароль In the restaurant/bar Bill Please Shchot pazhalusta Счет, пожалуйста I am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианец (Non) smoking (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее place mesto место I am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия Very tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно!

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Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Pocket dictionary: Belye nochi
Eternal daylight comes to St. Petersburg at the end of May when the white nights (belye nochi ) begin. During the belye nochi many locals begin to suffer from bessonitsa (insomnia) and the desire to stay out party gets stronger. At its peak (usually during the first weeks of June) St. Petersburg, which is positioned on the 59th parallel, usually only sees about one or two hours of a kind half-darkness. So prepare to say “da svidaniya” (goodbye) to your “vnutrennie chasy” (body clock)!

Foreigner Prices
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Health and Safety
Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Habits
When entering a Russian household, remember to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will offer you slippers. In terms of greetings, men shake hands with each other on meeting and if you’re a woman and you hold your hand out to a man, don’t be suprised if it is not shaken but kissed. Chivalry is alive and kicking!

Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. A pre-paid card account starts from around 150Rbl and includes about the same moneys worth of calls. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.

Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Russian Cultural Security Department), Ul. Malaya Morskaya 17, Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 17:00 or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Bridges Opening Schedule
Bridge Dvortsovy Blagoveshchensky Sampsonievsky Grenadersky Kantemirovsky Troitsky Liteiny Birzhevoy Tutchkov Bolsheokhtinsky Volodarsky Alexandra Nevskogo Finlyandsky Drawing 1:05 - 4:50 1:25 - 2:45, 2:10 - 2:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 1:35 - 4:50 1:40 - 4:45 2:00 - 4:55 2:00 - 2:55, 2:00 - 5:00 2:00 - 3:45, 2:20 - 5:10 2:20 - 5:30 3:10 - 5:00 3:30 - 4:25 4:20 - 4:50 4:20 - 4:50

Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Climate
In June and July, during St. Petersburg’s glorious White Nights, the city’s weather is usually at its best. Temperatures range from the low to mid teens at night (what little of it the city sees anyway) to warm and pleasant temperatures in the mid 20s during the day. Sudden storms and the occasional cloudy and windy day mean it’s best to be prepared – think layers, an umbrella and a folding paper fan.

3:35 - 4:55 4:15 - 5:45

Queuing
It may seem improbable when confronted with the Russian populace enmasse inside the metro but outside public transport Russians adhere to queuing rules strictly. The modus operandi involves fronting up to the dispersed group and asking ‘Kto pasledny?’ (Who’s last?), to which someone will answer ‘Ya’ (meaning me). Now all you need to do is wait for your turn.

Numbers
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat adinatsat 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat tritsat sorok 50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000 2000 pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha dve tysyachi

Alphabet

Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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June - July 2013

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Culture & Events
Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.

Culture & Events
03.06 Monday 02.06 Sunday

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June events
E-3, Grand Concer t Hall Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www. hughlaurieblues.com. Awardwinning English actor, musician and singer Hugh Laurie, best known for his role as the titular and misanthropic character on the wildly successful TV show, House M.D. (which ran from 20042012) returns to Russia in support of his new blues album, Didn‘t It Rain. This show is the follow up to his ambitious 2012 tour of America, Europe and Russia and promises to demonstrate Laurie‘s unique talent for interpreting American blues standards as well as the compositions of more recent masters. In the past he has been known to play the piano, harmonica, guitar and saxophone in addition to singing and comes with the support of The Copper Bottom Band. Q Tickets 1,700 - 6,000Rbl.

19:00 Pet Shop Boys

Musical Collection
29.05 Wednesday 05.07 Friday

19:00 Hugh Laurie

Concert Halls and Clubs
Club A2 (A2) B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya,
MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.cosmonavt.su Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www. philharmonia.spb.ru Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) С-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www. jazz-hall.spb.ru Ledovy Dvorets (LD) Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. +7 (812) 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru Mariinsky Concert Hall (MCH) C-4, Ul. Dekabristov 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www. mariinsky.ru Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www. bkz.sp.ru Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru Sport Concert Complex (SKK) Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 21 64, www.spbckk.ru

Club Cosmonavt (COS) D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24,

tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm

E-3, Grand Concert Hall Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.petshopboys.co.uk. English electronic pop duo The Pet Shop Boys are returning to Russia, a country they have been visiting often in recent years. The duo is made up of lead vocalist Neil Tennant and Chris Lowe on keyboards and they met in a record shop in London in August 1981. The Pet Shop Boys have been performing consistently for over three decades and are considered the most successful duo in UK music history having sold more than 50 million albums. This concert will feature compositions from their upcoming album, Electric, as well as old hits, such as «West End Girls» and «Always on My Mind». Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,300Rbl.

02.06 Sunday

19:00 3 Doors Down

Theatres
Alexandrinsky Theatre (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, M Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-3, Pl. Iskusstv 1, M Nevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, w w w. mikhailovsky.ru. State Theatre of Music Comedy (MCT) D-3, ul. Italianskaya 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.3doorsdown.com. American rockers 3 DoorsDown formed in the southern state of Mississippi in the mid 1990s and first struck gold with their single «Kryptonite» in 2000, a song originally recorded as a demo and first heard on a local radio station. They were quickly signed to a major label and over the years they have sold over 15 million albums worldwide. The band is known for its live performances and it keeps its wheels oiled by performing over 300 concerts a year. Q Tickets 1,250 - 4,000Rbl.

03.06 Monday

20:00 Joe Cocker

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.cocker.com. The raspyvoiced English singer Joe Cocker first achieved success with his 1968 cover of the Beatles, «With a Little Help From My Friends». He has always enjoyed unusual success in Russia with hits like «You Can Leave Your Hat On», «Unchain My Heart», and «Up Where We Belong». The Golden Globe, Oscar and Grammy award-winning singer comes in support of his new album Fire it Up and, of course, will bring his unforgettable and unique voice and idiosyncratic stage persona. Q Tickets 2,000 - 15,000Rbl.

D-3, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2; Small Philharmonic Hall, Nevsky pr. 30, M Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb. ru. With this traditional Summer festival the St. Petersburg Philharmony will close its 92nd season. Famous guests that will participate during the festival are Georgian pianist Eliso Virsaladze, the young violinplayer Itamar Zorman, French pianist Hélène Grimaud and Irish pianist Barry Douglas. A special performance can be expected from violin-player Gidon Kremer and his Kremerata Baltica orchestra. The festival will have its traditional concert on June 4th to commemorate the great conductor Yevgeny Mravinsky who headed the Philharmonic Orchestra during Soviet times for a staggering 50 years, from 1938 till 1988. Q Concerts start at 19:00.

VIII International Festival Musical Collection

Open Look Dance Festival

06.06 Thursday

02.06 Sunday

Buying Concert Tickets
Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and some venues such as the Mariinsky Theatre also sell tickets online. There are also a number of online services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets online and most of them offer delivery anywhere in the city for an additional fee. Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).

C-2, Sport Complex Yubileiny, pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.offspring.com. California punk rockers The Offspring have been tearing up stages since 1984, first breaking through with their monster 1994 hit, “Come Out and Play”. One of the rare bands in Russia whose hits can be heard everywhere from rock clubs to discotheques, they are returning to St. Petersburg in support of their most recent album, “DAYS GO BY!” but certainly will play such older hits as “Pretty Fly”, «The Kids Aren‘t Alright” and «Why Don‘t You Get A Job”. Q Tickets 1,300 - 2,500Rbl.

20:00 The Offspring

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.lanadelrey.com. American singer-songwriter Lana Del Ray is making her first visit to Russia in support of her most recent effort, Born to Die: Paradise Edition. Her music has been said to be influenced by film noir and she is often compared with other such singers as Amy Winehouse and Adele. But her fans know her for her unusual voice and stage charisma and she has built her following largely through festival appearances in North America and Europe. She should be no stranger to Russia as Born to Die made it to the fourth position on the Russian charts last year. Q Tickets 2,200 - 7,000Rbl.

20:00 Lana del Rey

Different venues, check official website for details, tel. (+7) 812 938 20 88, www.open-look.ru. The XV Anniversary International Summer Festival of Contemporary Dance will be in the theatres of St. Petersburg in June 2013. The festival, originally a summer dance school, has come a long way since its conception in 1999, and is now one of the most anticipated dance events in St Petersburg. The festival includes intensive master classes, discussions with foreign teachers, and projects with guest choreographers and international dance companies. This year, for the first time, the festival will include a dance marathon ‚Dance 24: Day and Night of Dance‘. Be sure to check out the Open Gala, which begins the festival and involves stars of contemporary dance in Europe and the US. There‘s so much going on throughout the whole festival: head to the website to have a look for yourself. Q Tickets from 300Rbl. All-in ticket 3,000Rbl.

01.07 Monday - 07.07 Sunday

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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June - July 2013

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Culture & Events
09.06 Sunday

Culture & Events
13.06 Thursday

11

19:00 Whitesnake

E-3, Grand Concert Hall Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www. whitesnake.com. British hard rockers Whitesnake will “go again on its own” in St. Petersburg in June at the Oktyabrsky Concert Hall. Its history dates back to 1978, and while the band‘s members have changed numerous times, one constant has been its flamboyant lead singer, David Coverdale, formerly of Deep Purple. While Whitesnake had its peak at the end of the 1980s and broke up in the 1990s, the group has been performing and recording consistently since regrouping in 2002 and has much more to offer than its mega hits “Here I Go Again” and “Is This Love”. Its most recent album is Forevermore released in 2011. Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,300Rbl.

11.06 Tuesday

20:00 Simple Plan

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.simpleplan.com. French Canadian pop punk rockers Simple Plan is one of the rare bands to keep its original lineup intact since the very beginning. The band formed in Montreal in 1999 and has released four studio albums over the years, with the most recent being, “Get Your Heart On!” in 2011. The band is known for its live performances and classic punk rock energy as well as its dedication to its charity that has donated well over $100,000 for various good causes. They were even part of the closing ceremonies of the 2010 Olympics. Q Tickets 1,500 - 3,500Rbl.

E-3, Grand Concer t Hall Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligov sky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.eddieizzard.com. British comedian and actor Eddie Izzard comes to Russia with a new comedy show as part of his Force Majeure 2013 World Tour. The tour will visit 25 countries from Cardiff to Katmandu, from St. Petersburg to Mumbai. Izzard is well-know for his impovisational abilities and absurd comedy, as well as for his acting abilities having appeared in more than 100 films. It isn‘t every comedian that can perform in countries where their native language isn‘t widely spoken. But Izzard is hardly just any person: besides comedy in 2009 he ran 43 marathons in 51 days for charity, despite never having run long-distance races before. Q Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl.

19:00 Eddie Iz zard: Force majeure

23.06 Sunday

19:00 Green Day

Alye Parusa

Sport Concert Complex (SKK), pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.greenday. com. California pop punk band Green Day are coming to St. Petersburg in the midst of the White Nights for their first visit ever as part of their Uno! Dos! Tre! Tour in support of their three albums, Uno!, Dos! and Tre! Led by lead vocalist and guitarist Billie Joe Armstrong and supported by bassist Mike Dirnt, drummer Tre Cool (who clearly is getting some respect via the tour‘s name), and guitarist Jason White, the band originally formed in 1987 before breaking through with their 1994 single «Longview», which catapulted the band to stardom and are credited with revitalizing mainstream interest in punk music. In the years since they have become one of the world‘s best selling groups, selling over 75 million albums and winning countless awards. Q Tickets 1,200 - 10,000Rbl.

22.06 Saturday

23:00 Alye Parusa

18.06 Tuesday

Sensation. Source of light
08.06 Saturday, 22:00
Sport Concert Complex (SKK), pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 363 33 33, www. radiorecord.ru. The electronic indoor dance music event, Sensation, returns with its new show «Source of Light». This house dance music event, which originated in the Netherlands, has toured more than 20 countries of the world on five continents for millions of spectators. As always, participants are asked to dress in white, even more fitting than usual as this show will take place during St. Petersburg‘s famed White Nights period. Be sure to catch the show in St. Petersburg as this will be the only event in the entire former Soviet Union in 2013. Q Tickets 2,500 - 8,000Rbl.

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. bonobomusic.com. Bonobo is the pseudonym of British DJ and producer Simon Green who is famous for his eclectic assortment of trip hop, jazz and electronic beats. His first album, Animal Magic, was released in 2000 and he performed all of the instruments and produced the album by himself. He was quickly signed to the independent label Ninja Tune and the contents of every album have differed from one to another, yet Bonobo always manages to stay true to the values and sound that informed his early experiments in down tempo and chill out music. He comes to St. Petersburg in support of his recently released album, The North Borders, yet the performance will most certainly differ from the recorded tracks. Bonobo performs live with an ensemble of musicians, taking the centre of the stage himself with a bass guitar, thus allowing the experimentation in his music to continue. Q Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl.

20:00 Bonobo

19:00 Turetsky Choir

23.06 Sunday - 24.06 Monday

E-3, Grand Concert Hall Oktyabrsky, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.arthor.ru. Khor Turetskogo (Turetsky Choir) has won numerous awards ranging from the Russian «Record» award to the American «Golden Crown», and is considered one of the most successful ensembles in all of Russia. Mikhail Turetsky, the leader of the group, was even given the title of People‘s Artist of the Russian Federation by Russia‘s then President Dmitry Medvedev in September 2010. The collective was founded in 1990 and since then has been travelling Russia and the world with its ten members forming a powerful a capella orchestra of sound ranging from the high of the tenor altino to the low of the basso profundo. Q Tickets 1,200 - 5,000Rbl.

D-2, Palace Square, MAdmiralteiskaya. Translated as Crimson Sails, this is the last day of school for St. Petersburg‘s high school graduates and one of the city‘s craziest holidays. Although it‘s primarily a holiday for school leavers to run amok in the streets, the whole city usually gets involved as the bottom of Nevsky Prospekt and surrounding streets are closed to cars and open to revelers. Youngsters swarm to the river to watch tall ships with (what else?) crimson sails passing under a firework lit sky, while the local shops sell out of beer and champagne. Entrance to the free concert on Palace Square is by invitation only so if you are not a Russian kid in the 11th grade, you will miss the chance to hear the Russian pop stars performing.

30.06 Sunday

20:00 New Order

24.06 Monday

20.06 Thursday

19:00 Blackmore‘s Night

E-3, Grand Concert Hall Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www. blackmoresnight.com. Blackmore‘s Night is a traditional folk rock duo combining the efforts of Ritchie Blackmore and his wife Candice Night. Blackmore, famous for being an original member of Deep Purple and Rainbow, met Night when she asked him for an autograph after a concert. They quickly discovered a mutual interest in Renaissance music and formed the band several years later. Blackmore‘s Night is known for their exquisite harmonies and romantic melodies that create an atmosphere of the European Middle Ages and the Renaissance, an epoch of troubadours, musketeers, fair maidens and court balls. The band is coming to St. Petersburg is support of its new works, A Knight in York, and The Beginning. Concertgoers are encouraged to wear clothes in a Middle Ages style or traditional evening wear. Q 1,600 - 4,500Rbl.

Spor t Concer t Complex (SKK), pr. Gagarina 8, M Park Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.depechemode.com. Bri tish electronic pop legends Depeche Mode are coming to St. Petersburg as part of their 2013 world tour. Since the band‘s inception over three decades ago, they have consistently charted singles in Europe and the United States, having sold more than 100 million albums. The band is famous for its live performances led by lead singer Dave Gahan, with its last tour alone selling more than 2.5 million tickets. No strangers to Russia‘s Northern capital, Depeche Mode comes in support of its recently released studio album - the band‘s 13th - Delta Machine. Q Tickets 3,200 - 12,000Rbl.

20:00 Depeche Mode

D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.neworderonline.com. While many groups are called «cult» favourites, few can back it up in the way that New Order can. Built on the ashes of post-punk group Joy Division who disbanded after the suicide of lead singer Ian Curtis, New Order achieved reknown by combining New Wave and electronic music. The band‘s main creative period was from 1980-1993 when they were one of the most critically acclaimed and influential bands of the era. They have been playing off and on again since 1998 and their upcoming performances in Russia will be their first in their 33 year career. Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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June - July 2013

12

Culture & Events
Music of the Greater Hermitage
09.07 Tuesday
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, M Petrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. satriani.com. Le gen dar y guitar virtuoso Joe Satriani supposedly took up the guitar after hearing the news of Jimi Hendrix‘s death. He was at an American football practice and promptly told his coach he had to quit to become a guitarist. He started out as a guitar instructor teaching legions of young metalists their craft, including Kirk Hammett of Metallica and Steve Vai. Over his storied career he has become one of the most influential guitar instrumentalists of all time and has seemingly played with everyone of note from Mick Jagger and Alice Cooper to Deep Purple and The Yardbirds. He comes to Russia in support of his 14th studio album, Unstoppable Momentum. Q Tickets 1,300 - 7,000Rbl.

Culture & Events
20:00 Joe Satriani

13

Exhibitions
Fashionable Petersburg. Recreational Spaces of Culture
Through 30.06 Sunday
D-4, The Derzhavin museum, nab. reky Fontanky 118, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 09 82, www.museumpushkin.ru. This exhibition shows the various aspects of cultural life of high-society Russians in the late eighteenth to mid-nineteenth centuries. Think masquerades, hunting, parlour games and fancy balls. The exhibition takes the form of the recreated interiors of a living room, a ball room and a dressing room and includes contemporary reconstructions of costumes and accessories by costume artist Anna Nekrasovaya. Visitors will get acquainted with high society etiquette, for example the correct way to write letters, the role of duels and the language of flowers. Q Open 10:30 - 17:30, Thu 13:00 - 20:30. Closed Tue.

BREAD

Maria Joao

09.07 Tuesday - 12.07 Friday

Music of the Greater Hermitage Festival

D-2, Hermitage Theatre, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmitalteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.hermitagemusic.ru. In celebration of the Year of the Netherlands in Russia and the upcoming 250th anniversary of the State Hermitage Museum, comes this varied programme of classical, melodic, jazz, and baroque music performed by some of the most talented young musicians in Europe. Every night of this festival‘s programme is different, featuring performance of different lineups of musicians, including Norweigian and Polish jazz, Dutch Baroque ensemble and Italian classical opera. Q Tickets 600 - 1,000Rbl.

29.06 Saturday - 28.07 Sunday

16.07 Tuesday

20:00 Iron Maiden

July events
02.07 Tuesday
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. dieantwoord.com. Die Antwoord is a rap-rave group from Capetown, South Africa fronted by dueling vocalists Ninja and Yolandi Visser. Both had been active in the South African music scene before joining forces in 2008. They released their debut album, $O$, through their website as a free download and initially gained popularity through their youtube videos. The band is well-known for their fanbase, having achieved a cult-like following and its image, music and style is inspired by zef culture, an Afrikaans word that means «common». However, little promises to be «average» about this concert. Q Tickets 1,500 - 7,000Rbl.

20:00 Die Antwoord

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.ironmaiden.com. Legendary English heavy metal band Iron Maiden have played more than 2000 concerts in their storied career which began in 1975. Lead singer Bruce Dickinson recently remarked that it is a «great honour to return to St. Petersburg» and to Russia where the band has always been warmly received. The Maiden England Show is a return to the band‘s roots in a way as it is a reincarnation of the legendary set list from their 1988-1989 tour and will certainly feature their famous mascot, Eddie. Fans can expect to hear such legendary hits as «Run to the Hills», «Wasted Years» and «The Number of the Beast». Having conquered the world by selling more than 90 million albums, and have toured on five continents and in 58 countries, Iron Maiden has certainly earned their battle stripes as one of the most successful metal bands of all time. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl.

Rizzordi Loft, Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This exhibition aims to depart from conventional exhibition methods, and instead takes a more artistic approach. The exhibition aims to present a collective speech in which discordant sounds of generations are united in a single chord of Krasnodar. Including the work of more than twenty artists, the exhibition aims to give a complete picture of the art of the region in recent years. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

BREAD: a Chronicle of Krasnodar and the Surrounding Area

Through 30.06 Sunday

01.07 Monday - 31.08 Saturday

Holi Festival

13.07 Saturday

How to get to A2:
As the Petrogradskaya metro station will be closed for most of 2013, one has to plan an alternative route to get to A2 Club. The following is a list of above ground transportation options from nearby metro stations. From Gorkovskaya metro station: take marshrutkas К46, К76, or К223 or buses 46 or 46а From Lesnaya metro station: take marshrutkas К10, К369, or К131, or trolleybus 31 From Sportivnaya metro station: take marshrutkas К175, К10, or К149, or trolleybus 31 From Chkalovskaya metro station: take marshrutka К131

E-1, Stadium Arsenal, pr. Metallistov 51, MPl. Lenina. The St. Petersburg Festival of Colours promises to be a time of ‚colour madness‘. Ten thousand participants will splash, sprinkle and coat one another with different coloured inks. Based on the Indian festival ‚Holi‘, this festival has been celebrated in India and other countries for more than two millennia. And in 2013 it will come to Petersburg for the second time. Come and have fun being splattered with paint. You only have to be outside the house for 5 minutes and you‘ll be covered from head to toe! Q Tickets from 600Rbl. Time: 15:00 - 22:00.

D-2, Military-Historical Museum of Artillery, Engineer and Signal Corps, Alexander Park 7, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 33 01, www.artillery-museum.ru. The Max Planck Science Tunnel exhibition is coming to St Petersburg as part of the Russian ‚Year of Germany‘. The exhibition is dedicated to the modern achievements of science and technology and looks at how science will change lives across the globe in the future. Designed for everyone regardless of their scientific background, the exhibition incorporates interactive multimedia systems, films and interviews, and an abundance of information presented in a variety of different formats. Learn about the formation of clouds, the theories of different dimensions, and the biochemical processes of social adaption. Recommended for visitors aged 12+. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of every month.

Max Planck Science Tunnel

Sand Sculpture Festival

D-2, Beach of the Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The annual Sand Sculpture Festival is theoretically designed with children in mind, but is fun for all ages. Sculptors from all over Europe, as well as from North America, will be taking part in the festival creating huge elaborate sculptures made from sand in a whole manner of different amusing, intelligent, mystical and grandiose styles. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00.

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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

14

Culture & Events
Sky. Plane. Grandfather.
29.06 Saturday - 29.07 Monday
F-3, ART re.FLEX Gallery, pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 33 43, www.artreflex. ru. The Arendt family‘s rich history is well-known. In his spare time, Nicholas A. Arendt observed the flight of birds, conducted experiments such as launching a frozen bird with outstretched wings into the air, and spent long hours doing mathematical calculations. He wanted to design an aircraft that would be heavier than air. This is the subject of the Arendt family exhibition which will include embroidery by Mary Arendt, wooden models of gliders by Natalia Arendt, and plaster busts by Anatoly Grigoryev and Ariadne Arendt. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.

FeatureS
Through 29.09 Sunday
C-3, State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg, Rumyantsev Mansion, ul. Galernaya 45, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 00 56, www.spbmuseum.ru. With over 300 works by artists of the Leningrad Underground, this exhibition represents the city‘s famous unofficial art of the 1960s to the 1990s. Not only does the exhibition include a wide range of works representative of the period, but the composition of the exhibition also reflects this era of non-conformism: the paintings are displayed in a dense ‚tapestry‘, as was the case in the apartment exhibitions of the 1960-1980s. The exhibition is accompanied by a series of photograph by G S Prikhodko depicting artistic life in the ‚70s. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed last Tue of the month.

15

Leningrad Collection

St. Petersburg‘s Historical Outskirts
Visit the grand palaces and parks of the Tsars Through January 2014
No visit to St Petersburg would seem complete without seeing Peter the Great‘s famous masterpiece of gold fountains and all things shiny, Peterhof. But south of the “Venice of the North” and along the Finnish Gulf surely must be the region of the world most densely populated with palaces, each with its own splendour to rival Peter’s Summer Palace. These are undeniable symbols of the decadence and absolute power of the Tsars. They are each as different as the tastes and fancies of those who owned them, from austere palaces and immaculate lawns to rolling parkland and landscaped gardens full of surprises. In this feature we‘ve picked out the best parks, palaces and attractions, but there‘s more to be said about them than could ever fit in our guide book - explore them for yourself!

Gegenlicht. German Art from the George Economou Collection
D-2, The State Hermitage Museum, The General Staff Building, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This temporary exhibition of German art from the George Economou Collection explores the legacy of German Expressionism and New Objectivity in post-war and contemporary art. The exhibition brings together important works from the last century, juxtaposing various pieces to show the influence of earlier artists on those working in the latter part of the twentieth century. Accompanied by an illustrated catalogue in Russian and English including essays from prominent art historians, the exhibition promises to be both accessible and thought-provoking for all those who visit. Q Open 10:30 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Through 31.12 Tuesday

D-1, State Museum of Political History of Russia, ul. Kuibysheva 2/4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 48, www.polithistory.ru. The result of ten years‘ hard work, this large-scale exhibition of Russian political history reflects contemporary academic discussion on the leadership of Russia over the last three centuries. The combination of artefacts, art and eyewitness accounts, along with the widespread use of interactive technology, and interesting methods of display allows the visitors to immerse themselves in the political history of the country and encourages them to draw their own conclusions. The ground floor is dedicated to the history of the 19th and early 20th Centuries; the second to the Soviet and post-Soviet eras. There is a special section dedicated to the current political situation. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month.

Man and Power in Russia in the 19th - 21st Centuries

Palaces Fit For A Tsar
Much as any self-respecting Russian billionaire wouldn‘t be seen dead without the latest tablet computer and state-ofthe-art yacht controlled by smartphone app, Russian nobility settled for only the best in modern innovation and wizardry. Built at the start of the 18th century, Peterhof‘s legendary fountains were an engineering marvel of their time, powered entirely by cleverly manipulated water pressure without the need for pumps. The Alexander Palace in Pushkin (built 1792-96) was early on electrified and telephones were installed; there was even an early lift that went between the children‘s rooms and the Empress’s suite, and a “home cinema” in the Semicircular Hall came later. Another innovation was the first railway in Russia, built in 1837 between Vitebsky Vokzal (then Tsarskoselsky) and Pushkin. At first carriages were drawn by horses taking wealthy residents of the capital to their summer homes in the imperial suburbs. More than just a transfer point, however, the Vitebsky station pavilion was a destination in itself and billed as an entertainment centre named

Otto Dix, Ursus im Steckkissen, 1927

the Vauxhall Pavilion, a title later morphed into the term vokzal and adopted to mean any significant railway station. Johann Strauss II and Franz Liszt can be counted among the performers in the late 1830s. The stations at Pavlovsk and particularly in Pushkin are noteworthy for their beautiful art nouveau decoration and elegant chandeliers and mosaics. Life in the palaces around St Petersburg was pretty good for children too, provided, of course, that you were the children of nobility. In the Marble Room of the Alexander Palace, they built a slide that took up over half the room. An even more daring version of this was to be found in the park of the Oranienbaum estate (built from 1710 onwards) further along the Finnish gulf and was a bit like an early rollercoaster. From the elaborate pavilion, one would be propelled downwards over a series of three hills on a cart running along wooden tracks. Sadly (or perhaps fortunately, if you‘ve got a liking for health and safety) all that remains today is one grand pavilion. No expenses were spared in designing the interiors and exteriors of their homes, and all passing European fads were catered to. The Catherine Palace in Pushkin, built in its currently form in 1756 under orders from Empress Elizabeth, used a hundred kilograms of gold for the facade and was so insanely lavish that even Catherine the Great thought it was a bit much. And the most ridiculous and stunning bit of all was the Amber Room, famed for its beauty and once named “the eighth wonder of the world” (though that might have been a slight exaggeration). It was decorated with over six tonnes worth of amber panels backed with gold leaf and mirrors. After failing to successfully remove it before German forces arrived they covered it with wallpaper hoping nobody would notice, but of course the Germans had heard of it - before being installed here it lived in Berlin. It only took the Germans 36 hours to take apart. After being put on show in Königsberg (now Kaliningrad) nobody knows quite where it went, some say buried in a mine, others say on a sunken submarine. Whilst the fate of the original Amber Room remains a mystery, great efforts have been made to recreate it with the help of a generous benefactor, and it can now be seen at the palace once again in all its full glory.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

16

FeatureS
Peterhof Must-Visits
Of course no luxury palace would be complete without immaculate gardens in the latest styles. Peter was inspired by formal French styles at Peterhof, whilst at Pavlovsk the English landscape garden with sweeping lawns, lakes and pavilions was the flavour of the day. All sorts of exotic cultures had their moment in high fashion. The Catherine Park is a testament to this and is brimful of quirky bridges and stylized buildings. One of the largest is the Chinese Village, originally based on one of Catherine the Great‘s engravings, consisting of ten tiny houses and a theatre. Fake romantic-looking ruins, Egyptian and Greek temples, Dutch castles, an entire miniature world tour could be taken around the palace grounds. At Pavlovsk (built from 1777 onwards), Maria Fedorovna, the widow of Tsar Paul I, put a few more practical touches into the park. Yet another German princess who married into Russian royalty, Maria Fedorovna often wanted to be apart from the intrigues of court and built herself a dairy in the palace gardens. Distinguished guests would be offered simple country fare and dairy products in contrast to the riches of the palace table. The Empress herself was even known to milk a cow or two.

FeatureS

17

To visit Peterhof is to travel back over three centuries in time to an era of unchecked ambition, limitless power and opulent beauty. Apparently not ‘great’ enough when originally built, the Great Palace has been altered and expanded much over the course of its history and ownership. The exterior is surprisingly harmonious, given that it was over 200 years in the making and has been touched by German, Italian, Russian and French architects alike. It goes without saying that the interiors have to be seen to be believed. When Peter’s daughter and heir Elizabeth took over she hired Bartolemeo Francesco Rastrelli, an architect whose fingerprints are all over St. Petersburg, including no less a building than the Hermitage. Rastrelli, it seems, never met a surface he didn’t want to gild and the ballroom and grand staircase are the epitome of this idea. Rich furnishings, handsome ornaments and artworks complete the grandiose royal residence, all lovingly restored following extensive damage incurred during the Second World War. Of particular note is the Chesme Hall. Originally used as a reception area, as it is adjacent to the throne room, Catherine the Great had the hall redone to showcase 12 massive canvases by German painter Jacob Philippe Hackaert. Each of the canvases depict sea battles from the Russo-Turkish War of 1768-1774, especially the Chesme harbour battle. Legend has it, Hackaert’s initial efforts proved inaccurately tame, without enough blazing ships and flying timber. To help him out, Catherine had a frigate exploded in an Italian harbour while the artist sat ashore, presumably blithely sketching the destruction. The jewel in Peterhof’s glittering crown has got to be the monumental Grand Cascade made up of 64 fountains and more than 200 statues, bronze reliefs and other shiny stuff. The design was conceived by Peter the Great himself. The centre piece is giant statue of Samson fighting a lion, symbolizing Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War (1700-1721). The twenty metre high jet of water that shoots out of the lion’s jaws is the highest in the park. Around the cascade you can challenge your friends to a round of spot the mythological heroes while you search for Bacchus, Aphrodite, Hermes and Achilles and co. All of the palace’s 173 fountains, jets, water arches, sprays and tranquil pools are courtesy of the pressure created by natural elevation and all of the water is from the natural springs lying just below the upper gardens. A tour of the grotto, located just behind the grand cascade, includes an explanation of the remarkable technology and also gives a bit of insight as to Peter’s sense of humor – reaching for the bowl of fruit at the central table will result in a surprise soaking. Oh, that Peter.

The People behind the Palaces

Our story starts with the man who once stood on a windswept beach looking out at the Finnish Gulf and announced that here he would build his capital: Peter the Great, founder of St. Petersburg. His shiny new city was to be a window onto Europe and a symbol of a new enlightened Russia, and he needed somewhere to watch over it all from. The Versaillesstyle palace at Peterhof was the perfect way to tell the world that Peter was a modern, European-style leader and could win wars and throw lavish parties with the best of them. Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov, a palace further west along the coast from Peterhof, was perhaps most beloved by Peter III, husband of Catherine the Great. Though he brought in a number of democratic reforms such as disbanding the repressive secret police, making killing peasants illegal and allowing aristocrats to travel abroad, he remained unpopular, so much so that after six months on the throne he was allegedly assassinated. Somehow, people seemed to like him a bit better after that, and there were several popular revolts led by people posing as Peter, most notably the Pugachev rebellion. Of all the palaces in the area, Oranienbaum was the only one to escape capture in World War Two, at which time it was a school; some say that Peter‘s ghost saved the children from bombardment. And so from the early glory days of Peter the First to the last days of the Romanovs; after abdicating, Tsar Nicholas II and his family spent their last days at the Alexander Palace - chopping and collecting firewood, clearing away snow and creating a kitchen garden, watched over by revolutionary soldiers. The palace that had once been their playground was now their prison. The end of an era for these palaces and for Russia came on August 1st, 1917, when the Bolsheviks came to take them away, never to return.

Attached onto the side of the Catherine Palace in Tsarskoe Selo is the Imperial Lyceum, whose most famous pupil, Alexander Pushkin, went on to become Russia‘s most famous and important poet. At the age of 14 he wrote his “Recollections at Tsarskoe Selo”, which brought him fame amongst poetry circles of the day. Even at the time (the start of the 19th century) he felt that the town had already fallen from its former greatness, writing in the “Recollections”: “Here every step gives birth to recollections in the soul of years gone by”. Looking around, with a sigh the Russian proclaims: “All has disappeared, the great is no more!”, “Those golden times have forever passed by”. Pushkin‘s poetry was no less beloved in the Soviet Era, hence the renaming of Tsarskoe Selo - the “Royal Village” - to Pushkin. A much more anonymous but no less important role in the history of the parks and palaces south of the Northern Capital was played by the employees of Peterhof, Pavlovsk and Pushkin during the Second World War. As news came of the arrival of enemy forces on Soviet territory, the workers of the estates had the monumentous task on their hands of somehow protecting these historic sites. Some of the important statues were buried and marked on a map so they could be located again. At Pavlovsk, Noah‘s Ark-style, one piece of each furniture set was saved and the rest left behind. They worked by candlelight, covered the floors with sand, boarded up the windows, and just as the opposition army approached the town’s outskirts, the last vehicles of precious goods set off for soon-to-be-besieged Leningrad. In their absence the stately homes and parks became shells of their former selves, but at least some of their hidden treasures remained safe. Though many of the palaces south of St. Petersburg are now museums, one at at least has returned to serve its original purpose - housing the country‘s rulers. The Konstantinovsky Palace in Strelna (originally completed in 1807) is an official residence of President Vladimir Putin, who in 2001 had it rebuilt after it was largely destroyed by German occupation, when it was used a naval base. It was originally to be the site of Peter the Great‘s summer palace, but when the site was found to be unsuitable for the complex fountains he wanted, it was passed over in favour of a location further along the Finnish Gulf which went on

to be the famous Peterhof. Practicalities that stopped the 18th century architects of the palace were no match for Putin and the original vision for fountains and bridges were finally brought to life. Not far from the palace is the dacha of Peter von Lindström, doctor to a branch of the Romanov family; nowadays the building hosts a restaurant and a museum of the 2006 G8 summit, as well as an intriguing exhibit named “3 minutes with Putin”. Don‘t get too excited - sadly you don‘t get to talk to the man himself, but just watch as he ruffles some papers, reads the History of the Baltic Flotilla and thinks important thoughts at the window to a soundtrack of atmospheric music. Accompanied, of course, by his faithful advisor and beloved labrador Connie Paulgrave, who really merits a feature to herself. It‘s all done with clever mirrors apparently. It should be noted that this attraction doesn‘t have the Presidential seal of approval, even though it claims to try and fulfil Putin‘s comment that future generation should be given the chance to “evaluate the politicians” of the past. Also on display is his first car, a clapped-out old Zaporozhets, and other fun Presidential paraphernalia.

Opening Times and Tickets
Oranienbaum (+7) 812 450 52 87 www.oranienbaum.org. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission to park and palaces 70 - 140Rbl. Pavlovsk (+7) 812 452 21 55, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Q Palace open 10:00 - 18:00, closed first Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 450Rbl. Park open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Peterhof (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Admission to park 50 - 450Rbl. Visiting of palaces: 10:30 - 12:00, 14:30 - 16:15, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to palaces 300 - 550Rbl. Find more information online. Pushkin (+7) 812 466 66 69, www.tzar.ru. Q
Catherine park open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission to park 50 - 100Rbl. Catherine palace open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tue. Admission 100 - 320Rbl. Visiting of the palace: 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00 for guided groups, 12:00 - 16:00 for individual tourists.

or by phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Wed.

Strelna (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace.ru. Q You can book tickets and guided tours online

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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FeatureS
Getting There
Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum
Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof). All the 3 towns are located along the Peterhof highway. By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)). For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approximately 45 minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By hydrofoil: Peterhof Express The Meteor speedboat leaves from Admiralteiskaya nab. 2 (Pier with Lions) near Dvortsovy (Palace) Bridge. Seating is airline style, with leather upholstery and more than ample legroom. Between cabins, there is a partially open viewing area that is as picturesque as it is windy. Toilets available on board. See more: www.peterhof-express.ru. The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower park of Peterhof where the fountains are situated.

FeatureS
Happily Ever After?
Strangely enough, we owe much about the estates‘ current condition to the Soviets, who uncharacteristically looked kindly on this part of Tsarist history, starting to rebuild them straight after the war. Aleksei Shchusev, the architect of the Lenin Mausoleum, said: „If we do not do this, we who know and remember these palaces in all their glory as they were, then the next generation will never be able to reconstruct them.“ It was quite a hunt to track down where the palaces‘ furniture and other items had got to - some had got as far as Latvia and even beyond. Strolling around any of the palaces or parks you can appreciate what a momentous task the restoration of these historic sites was, especially without the unlimited workforce and bottomless wallets of the Tsars. But it‘s still an ongoing project; to raise funds to recreate the stupendous opulence of Catherine Palace in Pushkin, for example, its grandest rooms have been leased out to stars like Elton John for a one-off concert. The estates are favourites with both the local public and tourists, picnics with friends, holiday photo opportunities or family days out. Thanks to the careful restoration they‘ve undergone, they are a window onto a vanished world of extremes and one which ended abruptly with the Revolution. Fittingly, they are now open to be enjoyed not by a select, wealthy few, but by all. hotel boasts a spa with large swimming pool, conference rooms and two restaurants. The Bavarian one comes highly recommended, also because of the huge windows that look out over the nearby pond. New Peterhof is part of an international hotel-chain and service is friendly and welcoming. The main entrance hall might look a bit odd at first, but serves as a central alley inside the hotel. It has won two architectural prices as well as a Golden Diploma for a eco-friendly hotel. Q Room prices start at 3,000Rbl.

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Restaurants and cafes
terburgsky pr. 34, tel. (+7) 812 319 10 10, www. new-peterhof.com. Heads up: this isn‘t, apart from a few German beers and a couple of sausages, a Bavarian restaurant. In actual fact it‘s a blend of European and Russian with some original additions. A far cry from what you might have expected from the name, it‘s got a large range of healthoriented options on its ‚fitness menu‘ and lists the calorie content of each dish on the menu so you know exactly what you‘re letting yourself in for. Neatly presented dishes range from fresh vegetabley starters to rich mains and a chocolate brownie for pudding. The simple dark wood decor underlines the large bright windows which look out onto the nearby ponds and attractive St Peter and St Paul Cathedral. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALW

Bavarian Restaurant New Peterhof Hotel, St. Pe-

Lindström’s dacha Strelna, ul. Glinki 7А, tel. (+7) 812 438 58 31, www.dachalindstrema.ru. Dining in style in a historical setting is what the restored Dacha Lindström is all about. It was here that in 2003 former President George W. Bush and his wife met for informal dinners with President Putin and his First Lady. The restaurant is located just off

the grounds of the Constantine Palace and serves a wide range of well-prepared and presented dishes. Don‘t worry, the prices are not as high as you might expect and the quality of the food is of great value. On the upper floors is a quaint little museum dedicated to the G8 Summit that took place here in 2003 and also showcases personal gifts to Vladimir Putin. Unfortunately, it is closed until after the G20 meetings in September of this year. The word is that world leaders will again wine and dine here and therefore the museum will get a bit of a facelift. It‘s a good pit stop when visiting the nearby palace. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €€. PTALW

Pushkin – Pavlovsk

Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station.

Hotels
Baltic Star Strelna, Beryozovaya al. 3, tel. (+7) 812 438 57 00, www.balticstar-hotel.ru. This grand hotel complex, located on the picturesque Gulf of Finland, offers extensive services and fine hospitality. Their facilities for guests on business are no less complete, with fully-equipped conference rooms and a business centre offering secretarial and translation services. There are also 20 villas, each with coastal views, choice enough for the Presidents and their spouses to stay during the G8 summit. Rooms ranging from standard to deluxe are inviting with quality furnishings in red or blue with buff. The Presidential Suite is exactly that; fit for a President to lay his or her head. Q Room prices start at 3,800Rbl. Extra bed 1,100Rbl. Breakfast 640Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDCW
812 319 10 10, www.new-peterhof.com/en. Without a doubt one of the most modern hotels in Peterhof, with all amenities one could wish for. At a relative short distance from St. Petersburg it is an ideal place to visit the famous palace and park and relax in the suburban atmosphere in the small town. Rooms are light and spacy with large windows some of which look straight out at the impressive Peter & Paul Cathedral, which is located right next to the hotel. The

New Peterhof Hotel St. Peterburgsky pr. 34, tel. (+7)

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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June - July 2013

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FeatureS
Islands
As the great Neva spreads out into a delta, it creates a series of islands, which the city’s founder Peter I wanted to put at the heart of the city. Whilst Vasilevsky Island was to be the centre, Peter divided up the other islands of the Gulf amongst his friends and allies, where they went on to built their dachas, summer palaces and seaside gardens. Today, two of the smaller islands, Krestovsky Island and Yelagin Island, have remained as public parkland and gardens, and are favourite spots with the locals for summer picnics and invigorating winter strolls, patches of secluded calm in the centre of the city.

hotels
Yelagin Island
From Krestovsky Island, take the bridge north across the Srednyaya Nevka and you’ll find yourself in the parkland of Yelagin Island. The island has gone through many name changes over the years and a lot of different owners, as members of the nobility fell in and out of favour with the Tsars. Each of its wealthy owners has of course left their mark but the name that eventually stuck on the island is that of one of its owners, Ivan Perfilievich Yelagin. His close links with Catherine the Great got him the job as director of court theatres, which he controlled with an iron fist. Eventually however his connections with freemasonry, alchemy and all sorts of shady characters soured their friendship. Yelagin’s Palace remains the most important structure on the island; its design brought fame to its architect, Carl Rossi, who went on to create such landmarks as the General Staff Building on Palace Square and without whom the face of St Petersburg would be very different today. It was once famed for its dazzling interiors, but the siege of Leningrad saw all of that burn to the ground. In 1950 it was rebuilt, and after a short stint as a leisure centre with billiard rooms and a dance hall in the former royal chapel, it has now been restored and houses a museum of decorative and applied arts. During the Soviet era it was best known as the site of the Central Park of Culture and Leisure named in honour of Sergey Kirov. Kirov, a Soviet big name, was killed by another member of the Party for reasons which remain unknown; the murder then sparked off the Great Purge in which thousands died. That aside, it was and still is one of the most popular parks in town. Its acres are packed with things to see and places to eat and drink. Efforts have been made to de-Soviet it and return it to its original more laid-back landscaping. Rent rollerskates or a boat in summer to paddle around a pond; or for the less actively inclined, the Maslyany Lug - ‘Butter Meadow’ - is ideal for picnicking. Paths meander between the different pavilions, many made with a helping hand from famous architects. From the western tip of the island the view opens out onto the Finnish Gulf, from bluegreen to stormy grey to frozen solid white ice. We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period June - July 2013. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.

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5 Stars
teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel. com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaac’s are unparalleled from their deluxe suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. Q193 rooms (Room prices start at 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh

Angleterre Hotel D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiral-

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57,

Krestovsky Island

Originally a gift from Peter the Great to his close friend Prince Alezander Menshikov, Krestovsky Island is once again becoming a sought-after destination and housing here fetches the highest prices per square metre out of any area of the city. Despite this, its rambling park is still a popular favourite, especially amongst families with kids, though its appearance is distinctly Soviet. Over the years the island saw its fair share of the tumultuous lives of the nobles. Even in the early 20th century it was the site of a deadly duel between Prince Nicholas Yussupov and Count Arvid Manteuffel, with whose wife Nicholas had been having a too-obvious affair. Manteuffel had to defend his honour and challenged Yussupov, who on both turns deliberately shot into the air, but Manteuffel really meant it and shot the young Prince dead. Krestovsky Island has a fine history of sport and was one of the first places in Russia where upmarket sports like lawn tennis, sailing, rowing and polo were played. In 1994 it hosted the Goodwill Games, first large international sporting event since the end of the Soviet Union. Now it’s home to one of Russia’s top football clubs, Zenit, who will soon be getting a shiny new stadium to match their growing success, and locals enjoy the park’s wealth of sporting facilities. ‘Primorsky Victory Park at the western end of Krestovsky Island was built by local residents as a memorial to casualties of the Second World War and Leningrad Blockade. Here you can rent bikes and skates, or, if feeling less energetic, you can fill your stomach with shashlik and beer at any of the tents or terraces scattered about the park or along the riverbanks. The city’s largest funfair Divo Ostrov (‘Miracle Island’) is situated not far from Krestovsky Ostrov metro. This is the place for Disneyland fantasy, Russian style. They have family attractions as well as brand new extreme rides which all have scary names like ‘the Catapult’ (something akin to to pair bungee swinging) and the 25m high Winged Swing. Though it’s won awards in Russia, the extreme rides have at times found themselves in the news for being dangerous, so we recommend you stick to the bumper cars and popcorn.

M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www. corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast (1,330Rbl) not included. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar or authentic Chinese at Chopsticks. For fine dining, L’Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. Q276 rooms (Room prices start at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not included. PTHA6UFLG� KDW hhhhh Hotel Astoria C-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria. com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, the Rotonda Lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, the Lichfield Bar where you can try original cocktails and the newly opened restaurant Astoria Café. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q188 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). PHAFGKDwW hhhhh

Open-air Clubs
trov), MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 986 43 03, www.open-bar.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Royal Beach B-1, Yuzhnaya doroga 14, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 916 60 06, www. royalbeach.ru. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. Russkaya Rybalka B-1, Yuzhnaya doroga 11, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 323 98 13, www. russian-fishing.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat until last guest. SYDNEY Beach Club B-1, Petrovskaya kosa 9 (Petrovsky ostrov), MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 918 91 86, www.sydney.spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Vozdukh B-1, Yuzhnaya doroga 6, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 962 22 29, www.vozduhpromo. ru. Q Open 23:00 - 06:00.

Open Bar B-1, Petrovskaya kosa 9 (Petrovsky os-

Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. In a boutique hotel style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms there’s ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which is all part of Domina’s aim to make guests feel that this is not just a hotel, it’s an experience. Q109 rooms (Room price start at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast (1,200Rbl) not included. PTHA6ULGKDwW hhhhh

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-3, Nab. reky

Symbol Key
P Air conditioning T Child friendly K Restaurant C Swimming pool F Fitness centre D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station W Wi-Fi connection

Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www. kempinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 is located in a charming and historical area, in the very heart of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, opposite the renowned Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The Hotel is just two minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospect and close to all major sights and shopping. The unique location of the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie on the ninth floor of the hotel makes it one of the most awe-inspiring places in the whole old St Petersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 offers 197 rooms and suites and features the Beau Rivage restaurant; Wine Cellar; Tea Room and the Von Witte bar with its log fireplace. Q197 rooms (Room prices start at 11,475Rbl). Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Breakfast (1,575Rbl) not included. PTHA6FLGKDW hhhhh June - July 2013

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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hotels
Ask the Concierge
My name is Olga Molchanova. I graduated from the State University in Kishinev, Department of Foreign Languages. After university I spent two years teaching French in one of St. Petersburg Lyceums. After a short break I became interested in hospitality and decided to try it out for myself. As a result I`ve been working as a concierge for the last 6 years. At the moment I am a chief concierge of Astoria and Angleterre hotel. What is considered to be a summer-secret of St. Petersburg which would be interesting to visit? White nights and the famous festival in Mariinsky theatre attract visitors from around the world. However the charm of White Nights becomes even more mysterious when you experience it while doing a boat ride along the canals and rivers of the city. To my mind, all of these landmarks are obvious, but there are lots of secrets in them that people can learn about. Where can one find a beautiful spot in the city not crowded with tourists? Tourists tend to visit museums and palaces but there are lots of parks which are not so crowded. There is one which has attracted my attention. It is located in Oranienbaum. It is fascinating with its wonderful green paths and ponds, majestic trees and a wonderful Chinese Palace which is called Steklyarusny Study Room. Hotel Astoria celebrates its 100 year anniversary this year? Hotel Astoria had its official 100th birthday on the 23rd of December 2012. For the main celebration we have chosen the season of wonderful White nights. The 100th Anniversary Gala Event will take place on the 18th June in Astoria. We are expecting about 400 guests from Moscow, St Petersburg, Europe and the USA. There will be representatives of media and business elite, people of art and famous guests of Astoria. Sir Rocco Forte will personally host the event, which will be a night to remember. What are the biggest challenges for you as a concierge during the summer season? In the summer this city is full of tourists. For a concierge who is supposed to be ready for anything it is a challenge to arrange quick and smooth entrance into the most popular museums and palaces (like Hermitage, Peterhof, Tsarskoye Selo) where the number of visitors is limited by museum authorities. Also, some tourists might not be ready for our unpredictable weather, so making jokes about it and convincing people to take an umbrella even though it is sunny outside, sometimes surprises guests but makes our days brighter and different. What should a tourist do to experience the “real” Russia? I think that people who visit St. Petersburg have already a chance to explore lots of palaces and wonderful attractions but I there are also lots of opportunities to experience ancient Russia, like in a Russian Banya. Birch brooms in a banya and herbal tea from the “samovar” are very authentic here. Another option is to arrange short trips to old ancient towns like Veliky Novgorod and Pskov.

hotels
Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the welltrained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There’s the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with it’s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (Room prices start at 6,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast (1,300Rbl) not included. PTHAUFGKDW hhhhh

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4 Stars
naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassadorhotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and ancient district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chandeliers, a trendy bar and the classic fine-dining Ambassador restaurant all greet you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has numerous facilities including a tour agency and a 16m pool and juice bar! Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). Breakfast (750Rbl) not included. PHAUFLGK� DCW hhhh

Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen-

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, the rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (Room prices start at 5,900Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St Petersburg, the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, there’s a spa with summer terrace and wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel’s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (Room prices start at 13,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included. PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cocktails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Breakfast (1,500Rbl) not included., incl. depending on a room type. PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh

Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which has free WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; one of them, the reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer. There’s also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location on Kan. Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). VAT and breakfast (850 Rbl) are not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West

C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg. ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly room, and enormous desks in every room even the most workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There’s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) not included in Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFL� GKW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Startovaya

ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to the international terminal of Pulkovo airport, this is the city’s first airport hotel. A modern design on the building’s facade includes quirky windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and flexible conference room space. There’s a spa and fitness area with a Russian banya for post-flight relaxation and the hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. Q294 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) are not included. PTHAUFLGBKDW hhhh

U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation
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st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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hotels
ogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast (850Rbl.) not included. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto Nevsky and within a stone’s throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldn’t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. A great choice for those here to enjoy the city’s tourist delights. Q269 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Restaurants
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympia Garden is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even designed using NASA technology. The size difference between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (Room prices start at 4,300Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFL� GBKDW hhhh Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication to the city. The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel you’ll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older side of Vasilievsky Island, it’s good for those interested in sightseeing. Q 255 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl.PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh

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Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Mayakovsk-

Symbol Key
P E T G B V Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Outside seating Home delivery A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking W Wi-Fi connection M Nearest metro station

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3,

St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service. Don’t hesitate to politely ask for all of your change back, if the establishment automatically pockets whatever amount you hand them for the bill. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCherny-

3 Stars
pr. 43/1, M Baltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.ru. This hotel, previously known as the Sovetskaya, is slowly but surely transforming itself in to a European style budget hotel, complete with good restaurant and conference facilities. More than 1000 rooms are scattered over 18 floors - with over half them having received a modern, functional, terracotta-coloured renovation. This is the tallest building in the historical part of the city and the view from the evening bar on the 18th floor is quite simply stunning. Q1026 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl). PHAFLGKW hhh Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. com/6157. Smart and clean with the appearance of an upmarket hotel, Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast (480 Rbl) not included. PHAULGKW hhh

Russian and Ukrainian
(+7) 812 315 21 25. Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu. The waitstaff are professional and know the menu well and will be happy to guide you through some of the region‘s more unusual dishes. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAS

shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/ sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel looks like something from another planet compared to some of the other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevsky’s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass fronted kitchen is stunning. Q173 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl. Breakfast (920Rbl) not included. PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh

Azimut Hotel Saint-Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky

Koleso D-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.

Les Clefs’ d’Or
Back in the bad old days, a Russian concierge would probably be considered simply as glorified security guard, checking the comings and goings of guests and offering little in terms of local knowledge and professional expertise. Thankfully those days have long since passed and nowadays the role of concierge is one taken as seriously in Russia as in any other western country. In fact numerous St. Petersburg hotels now have concierges who are members of the prestigious professional association Les Clefs’ d’Or which was founded in France in 1929. Look out for members of staff wearing the distinctive golden keys badge on their lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand Hotel Europe, Astoria, Angleterre and Corinthia. These highly qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can book tickets and make reservations for you, recommend restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help you find a good tailor. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is very happy to be partners with Les Clefs’ d’Or.

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl.

Hostels
Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Ka zanskaya 5, 3r d f loor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs there’s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special offers including a welcome drink at Atelierbar a few minutes’ walk away. The staff organise events including regular banya trips, and can also hook guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (Room prices start at 490Rbl). PNGW st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Levin D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Their menu has a selection of moderately-priced homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accomdating to foreign guests, and have a bilingual menu and free wifi. The service is among the fastest you‘ll find in St. Petersburg - you‘re not going to waste fifteen minutes waiting for someone to bring you a menu. It‘s not usually very busy or loud, so it‘s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW
(+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you‘re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you‘ll find yourself part of the night‘s entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEBSW

NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Restaurants
to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven‘t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamom is a welcome addition to the city. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW

Restaurants

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Chin Chin Cafe C-2, Mytninskaya nab. 3, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 10 42, www.chin-chin-cafe. ru. The toast "chin-chin" simply means cheers, but actually it is the Chinese term of salutation. Chin Chin Café is St. Petersburg’s premier destination for haute Asian cuisine. The menu features ingredients from around the world, prepared with Asian techniques and spices. They prepare a great Tom Yum, nice vegetable dishes and of course a famous Peking Duck. If you are a fan of seafood they also have a big selection of lovely fish dishes. The restaurant features a full bar with a wide selection of wines, liquor, beer (they also offer Singha Thai beer!) and cocktails of course. Like the cuisine, the restaurant exhibits a homely yet sophisticated atmosphere where guests can enjoy their meals in an unhurried setting and with live music playing at night.Q €€€. PTAESW Dve Palochki American Edition E-3, Nevsky pr.
96, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 355 02 22, www. dvepalochki.ru. Dve Palochki American Edition is not much different than Dve Palochki regular edition. It‘s the same basic menu, same service and same prices with a tiny bit of an American twist. Half of the restaurant is designed to look like an old fashioned 1950‘s American diner with vinyl booths and green and white checkered tables. The waiters wear a stereotypical American uniform of blue jeans and red polo shirts. The American section of the menu includes burgers, donuts and cupcakes, and like in true American diner fashion, free refills of coffee! QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. €. PAVSW

Kvass
Mmmm, what could be nicer than a fermented rye bread drink on a hot day? Whether it sounds appealing or not kvass, a traditional Russian soft drink, is the taste of Russian summer. Once the hot months arrive you’ll notice big yellow barrels full of this traditional soft drink parked on street corners throughout the city. Somewhat akin to a half-flat non-alcoholic ale it is an acquired taste, but most Russians seem to love it. Marketed as a patriotic alternative to cola this traditionally homemade drink is now available in supermarkets under brand names such as Klassik and Nikola. Kvass can also sometimes find its way into your food as in the cold summer soup okroshka made with raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs topped off with some cold kvass.

bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated finde-siècle inspired place is as far away from that kind of place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very classy introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we‘ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAULESW

Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 C-3, Konnogvardeisky

Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac‘s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 15 years now they‘ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant‘ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city‘s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW

your attention here. The group of ambitious young people who created this café first travelled around Asia in order to collect the best recipes. And they definitely succeeded – the café’s menu offers a good variety of Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai meals combining excellent seafood, super fresh vegetables and delicious sauces. Try their tempting main courses or salads with mouth-watering toppings. We’re sure you won’t regret it!QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVGSW

Beer Restaurants
Bierstube C-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. With their own brewery the Marriott‘s Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are looking for some homebrewed hoppy stuff. Choose from a seat in the glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood and stucco countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the metro station means you have the chance to walk of all the calories after. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULSW Karl & Friedrich B-1, Yuzhnaya dor. 15, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 320 79 78, www.k-f.ru. Escape from the toxic city air to this great restaurant on Krestovsky island, which serves up wonderful fresh fish and freshly brewed beer. The portions are large and great value for money. There are three varieties of Karl & Friedrich beer brewed on-site. Q Open Sun - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAULEBSW June - July 2013

812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and even the toilets are encased inside giant leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate - no doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance. Q Open 08:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALVESW

Tsar D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 12, M Nevsky pr., tel. (+7)

Asian and Indian
tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined

Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoorispecialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. QOpen 12:00 23:30. €. PALVSW Umao C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 11, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 33 15, www.umaocafe.ru. This cosy Pan-Asian café, situated very close to St. Isaac’s Cathedral, appeared here in St. Petersburg less than half a year ago and was an instant success due to its great Asian food and restful atmosphere. Wooden furniture combined with modern elements such as original transparent chairs fill gives it an airy, clean-cut feel. Simplicity – that’s the right word to describe the interior of the café – nothing distracts st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Cardamon C-2, Nab. Makarova 22/31, MSportivnaya,

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Restaurants
tel. (+7) 812 717 12 09, www.harats.ru. Coming all the way from Irkutsk, where the first Harat‘s opened up, this St. Petersburg pub has everything on offer you‘d expect. Whisky and beer is what you should drink here and there is plenty to choose from. At Harat‘s you can have a real Irish breakfast, grilled sausages or a club sandwich while watching your favorite sports on tv. In the weekends there is live music in this cozy bar on Nevsky Prospekt just past the Moscow railway station. This pub is successfully exported to more then 15 Russian cities, so they‘re always close to where you are. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. PAEVW tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl., Trappist is definitely a beer place. However, don‘t expect to find any Baltika or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW

Restaurants
Cafes and Coffee houses
Cafe Singer D-3, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor),
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23. A long while back there used to be a terrible coffee shop here run by some of the most incompetent and unfriendly waiters in the city. Thankfully all traces of that establishment have completely disappeared. In its place you will find a large café serving decent coffee and cakes as well as classic Russian dishes like borsch and pelemeni. The staff here will actually look you in the eye and bring you your menu/cappuccino/bill when you ask them for it and they can even be caught smiling sometimes too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGS pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 06, www.idealcup.ru. The Ideal Cup is St. Petersburg‘s most successful coffee-house chain; it has a couple of pleasant cafes on Nevsky prospekt alone. It serves good coffee in all forms imaginable including alcoholic and non-alcoholic coffee cocktails, at decent prices. The cakes, while very sweet - in true Russian tradition - are great, particularly the Black Forest. It can get rather busy here. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW

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Harat’s Irish Pub E-3, Nevsky pr. 109, MPl. Vosstaniya,

Caucasian and Central Asian
Baklazhan E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas , khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW Djigiteria C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 36 99, w w w.gigiteria.ru. This relatively new addition to the city’s Georgian restaurants is very different from the sort of thing you normally see. No dark wooden interior, no fake vines adorning the walls - instead, a modern, bright, yet warmly lit interior. The restaurant’s name is a play on the old word Gigit, meaning “young fellow” or “macho”, plus the ending of your usual pizzeria, cafeteria. The menu is not too large, but boasts all that you’d expect from the South Caucasian kitchen. The food is well prepared and they certainly take care over the presentation. Most importantly, although the portions seem somewhat small, the food tastes really good and fresh. If you bring your little ones there’s a small play room for them and a nanny at weekends. It is located a short walk from the Peter & Paul fortress, just next to the Zenit soccer stadium and inside a new business centre, but don’t let that put you off: once inside, it’s a real treat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho. com. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho!” - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course.This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it’s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Iso Dzandzava, the brand chef of the restaurant knows all cooking secrets of Megrelian housewives. She always adds hazelnuts into kharcho – just like they do it in that blessed region. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW Mamalyga D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Mamalyga is a Ginza group Caucasian restaurant, and is ambitious and wide-ranging in its menu as are most Ginza projects. Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local cooks (meaning local from there). The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALVSW

Trappist Е-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya,

Idealnaya Chashka D-3, Nevsky pr. 32/34, MNevsky

Dva Piva Pazhalusta! – Two beers please!

Smalldouble D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 932 82 17, www.smalldouble.com. This tiny, non-smoking coffee shop on Kazanskaya ul. has a huge selection of coffees that can be made for you using various preparation methods as you wish. They also have a large selection of teas, homemade pastries, candies, and cookies, and three types of sandwiches served on freshly-baked ciabatta bread. The friendly atmosphere is enhanced by its open format where customers can observe and even chat with the cooks while they are preparing your food. Q Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €. PAGSW

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Restaurants
French quiches, Dutch soup and herring, and mussels. The café is designed in a Provencal style with furniture made from light-coloured wood, high ceilings, and bookshelves filled with dishes. They also have a sunday brunch: a set menu of hot and cold appetizers with a glass of French wine and either tea or coffee with homemade sweets for 550Rbl. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALESW teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 65 63, www.viadelloliva.ru. Some of the remnants of Via dell Oliva‘s former guise as a Greek restaurant remain and the choice of elaborate seating areas (derelict castle, quiet village street or bougeanvilla covered house) all point towards the fact that the focus is still Mediterranean, if indeed all that‘s left of the Greek menu is the Souvlaki. For the most part the influence is Italian, although you‘ll also spot Russian hits such as stroganoff in there too. Dishes from the grill are most popular and whatever you order be sure to request some of their excellent lemony olive oil for dipping. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW

Restaurants
Stroganoff Steakhouse C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul.
4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www. stroganoffsteakhouse.ru. If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse, perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bankers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks are the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else on the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak event. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAULESW 363 23 41, www.teremok.ru. Head upstairs and worship at the throne of Teremok - the pancake or bliny kings. Although it is strictly fast food, the bliny are assembled as you order them and there is a wide variety. Restaurant also at Nevsky pr. 93, check the other 35 locations via their website. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €. PTNGS

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Teremok E-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812

Via dell‘oliva C-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 31, MAdmiral-

International
22.13 D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 647 80 50, www.22-13.com. The owners have taken inspiration from all of their favourite places in creating this gorgeous two storey restaurant overlooking the former imperial stables. Culinary influences include American hamburgers, Thai curries and Italian pizzas. Furnishings and accents are equally eclectic and the space has been arranged in such a way that there are all sorts of nooks and crannies to settle into for long chats over innovative cocktails or to while away the hours with your laptop or any of the books and magazines they‘ve thoughtfully provided. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. €. PTALESW

Fine dining
(+7) 812 643 04 44, www.legran-rest.ru. A new addition to the Hermitage neighbourhood, this French restaurant serves up French and Russian cuisine in a roomy, well-lit, and well-designed space that resembles a wine cellar. The wait staff is attentive and friendly and the menu is expansive featuring French beef, fish, and duck dishes, as well as many of the standards of Russian food, which seems appropriate enough here considering the influence French cuisine had on Russian cooking in the pre-revolutionary period, which the restaurant duly pays homage to. This restaurant has set high goals and it certainly looks like they know what they are doing. Additionally, Legran prides itself on its family-friendly attitude and organises many children-oriented activities such as cooking classes, on holidays and weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTASW

MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taleonimperialhotel.com. A conceptual menu offers the unique treat of luxurious, yet classic Russian dishes which are related to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible from the lofty terrace or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky prospekt and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu gives the history of the dish as well as the site, creating a meal for both body and mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, fish and game in this royal parlour of a restaurant at the top of the Taleon Imperial Hotel. Breakfast buffet and business lunch also on offer. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALEW

Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15,

Legran D-2, Millionnaya ul. 4/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.

Good and Cheap
Kroshka Kartoshka E-3, Nevsky pr. 122 A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 901 305 21 50, www.kartoshka.com. This very no-frills joint is an ode to the humble potato (kartoshka). You can get your kartoshka in the kroshka style (i.e., baked) with a choice of fillings such as feta cheese, bacon and sour cream or aubergine stew. They also do paninis, salads and very cheap beer to wash it all down. Also at ul. Malaya Sadovaya 3 (metro Gostiny Dvor). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. TGS

Buddha bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Washington. Russia has joined the club. The Buddha Bar in St. Petersburg brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha Bar will prove popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of far-Eastern cuisine. Q Open 17:00 - 02:00, Wed - Sat 17:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW

European
Freeman‘s D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 05 40, www.freemans.su. They say good things come in small packages, and this certainly is the case at this fine-dining restaurant near Kazan Cathedral. Freeman‘s serves interesting flavour combinations (try the scallops with chocolate and hazelnut) with a touch of finesse. The portion sizes are small, though, so go with the intention of getting at least two courses. The restaurant is located opposite a pole dancing club and consequently the table in the window is always reserved; however the restaurant itself feels very classy. Ask to sit downstairs for a cosier atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Metamorfos E-3, Radisson Sonya Hotel, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 06, www.radissonblu.com. This stylish Russian restaurant ticks all the boxes for those who are looking to sample real Russian food with a modern twist. The interior was designed by the wildest imaginations of famous contemporary Swedish designers and the menu mixes up traditional Russian favourites with flair. It‘s possible to spend time just philosophising over the menu itself, which has been designed to reflect a Dostoevskian novel. It‘s Russian, but not as you would usually know it. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. Bar open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAUSW Philibert E-4, Kolomenskaya ul. 29, MLigovsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 607 41 39, www.philibert.ru. A quiet café with homemade food located on a quiet street not far from Ligovsky Prospect. It is named after the legendary and hospitable French farmer Frantz Philibert who wound up in the Dutch provinces and gained fame for his cordial and fine fare. The menu is not big, but is interesting. Here you can try delicious

miX in St. Petersburg D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, w w w.wstpeter sburg.com. Th e first restauran t in Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fits perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia‘s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly presentable chefs over in the open kitchen. After examining the impressively long wine list be sure to sample one of their highly creative cocktails. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00 (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 - 18:00, dinner 19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGKW Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Restaurants
Fine Beaujolais
Located north of Lyon in eastern France, Beaujolais overlaps Burgundy in the north and Rhône in the south. The picturesque Beaujolais vineyards run along the Saône River, where winemakers have crafted deliciously supple and fruity wines since the days of Ancient Rome. Over mainly granite terrain, the Beaujolais Crus form a meandering path. From south to north, Brouilly is followed by Côte de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Moulin-àVent, Chénas, Juliénas and Saint-Amour. The region has ideal growing conditions. It receives lots of sunshine and has granite-based soils that lend excellent structure to the wines. You wonder why we are telling you all this? Not so long ago the St. Petersburg In Your Pocket team was invited to a fantastic Beaujolais wine press lunch held by Aurelie Vabre at the Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg. Aurelie told us lot of interesting things about Beaujolais wines and its pairing with the Russian cuisine. And we can say that it matches perfectly! Try it yourself. Ask for Beaujolais wines in the best Russian restaurants of St. Petersburg!

Restaurants
Gosti D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 13, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Dining in this continental cafe is a bit like going to your provincial granny‘s cottage. If your granny has as much taste as she does knickknacks. Each of the rooms has plenty of florals, books and decorative odds and ends on the wall, but the effect is homey rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the generousity of granny and can easily be divided into two meals. Q Open 08:00 until last guest €€. PTAEGBSW

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Kitchenette E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr.

Putanesca E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 6, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 922 33 80, www.putanesca.ru. They call themselves a ‚Bar and Kitchen‘, and this is a fair judgement: the kitchen provides a good range of tasty Italian dishes, but it‘s the drinks and desserts that make Putanesca stand out. The cocktails are delicious and unusual, as are the homemade lemonades and house teas. As for dessert, we would seriously recommend the strawberry flambé. And if you can‘t get enough of their homemade pasta, buy some to take home with you! It even comes with tips on how best to cook it. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 until last guest, Sat 12:00 until last guest, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. PAESW Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www. romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Having opened its doors in late October, Romeo‘s fills a void in one of St. Petersburg‘s most beautiful neighborhoods. Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo‘s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city (one is usually easy to find, but not both). The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children‘s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains. All ingredients were fresh and the portions were reasonable. But most of all you‘ll like the prices. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Schastye na Nevskom E-3, Nevsky pr. 55, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 328 85 55, www.schastye.com. Schastye or Happiness is another good addition to the centre where you can eat well and take a break from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The chef is inspired by his culinary excursions (the most recent one being to New York) and uses an interesting mix of ingredients to make his creations. The interior is warmed by light and minty tones which create for a laidback and casual atmosphere. The menu is filled with balanced breakfasts which can be ordered at any time, soups, creative main dishes, and a wide range of desserts. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Taverna Grolle C-2, Bolshoy pr. VO 20, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru. When heading to Grolle don‘t expect it to resemble your usual watering-hole. Although named after the old Dutch city that is home to the famous Grolsch beer, this restaurant is definitely a notch above your average tavern. They have an excellent choice of local fresh fish on their large menu and a whopping bronze mangal (grill) where you can order fresh shashlik and the like. The huge windows give you a nice view of this upgraded area on Vasilyevsky Island and this place is a convenient stop when strolling around the historic neighbourhood. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTESW

30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 383 52 48, www. kitchenette.com.ru. Sitting in one of the train carriage style booths in Kitchenette, it‘s easy to escape the stresses of the busy shopping centre just the other side of the wall. The red and black interior is based on a British railway stations and trains, even down to the highly stylised luggage-rack above your head. As for the food, portion sizes are generous, and the ingredients good quality. Try their very own ‘Kitchenette Burger‘ if you‘re feeling more than a bit peckish, or treat yourself to something from their all-day breakfast menu. Q €€. PTALSW

Okean C-2, Dobrolyubova pr .14 bldg. A (next to Birzhevoy

bridge), MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 986 86 00, www. okeanspb.ru. What was once the popular Aquarel restaurant, has finally been revealed to be a new elegant (in other words, reasonably priced) restaurant that is not as flashy as the old place but certainly retains the view, atmosphere and terrace that made it so popular before. The coolest aspect of the architecture is that the walls are windows - so wherever you sit you can see the River Neva stretching out beyond. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PTALEW

Teplichnye usloviya D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 25/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 56 59, www.teplichnie. ru. If you love Russian and European cooking with a minimalist interior then welcome to Teplichnye Usloviya! It has the decor of a rustic cottage in a village and is made to resemble a greenhouse in the cottage of a Soviet elite in the 1930s. This place is well known for their homemade fruit and berry compotes and the menu offers a mix of Russian and European cuisine featuring traditional Russian borsch, homemade chicken cutlets with potatoes, as well as Italian pastas, and special creations of the chef, as well as original desserts such as beet or cucumber sorbet and a cherry tree tort. They also have boardgames on offer for guests to play, as well as film screenings of classics. Q Open Mon - Thu, Sun 11:00 until last guest, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. €. PASW St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013

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Restaurants
Vegetarian
Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 16 75, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal! QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW
946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. This quaint vegetarian cafe is a nice place to relax and grab a healthy meal that won‘t break the bank. On the first floor there is a counter where you can order already prepared food for a quick bite and on the second floor is a full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refreshing atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave. The friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to each guest and explain the menu, which includes vegetarian, vegan and raw food options. And, for those of you who are artistically inclined, feel free to draw with the colored pencils that sit on each table! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. €. PTALGSW

Restaurants

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Seafood
Fish House D-3, Grivtsova per. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 448 22 77, www.fish-spb.ru. Fish, fish, more fish and seafood - this is one for the piscivores, although with a good beef stroganoff on the menu carnivores will be happy too. This very plain looking fish house specialises in American style fish grills - the portions are huge as well as the massive ceramics they arrive on. We enjoyed the trout with spinach, although it took a long time to grill it to perfection. They also do some nice Russian pickled fish with delicious black bread. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PTAULESW

Ukrop E-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812

Bez myasa – without meat
T.G.I. Friday‘s E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky Mama Luba C-1, Sablinskaya ul. 3, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 405 83 85. If like us you‘re a bit wary of yet another restaurant with the name ‚Mama‘ something - think again, because this one deserves a chance. It might sound a bit like another tacky commercial mock-ethnic affair, but it‘s really nothing of the sort. The restaurant claims to be Italian, but apart from the presence of some pasta dishes, that‘s not really clear from the menu. What could be called Italian about it is the way it lets the flavours of fresh natural ingredients shine through, whether in the strawberry and basil cocktails, the interesting homemade nastoyki (homemade infusions) or in the homemade pasta. Like the food, the décor is un-fussy with some nice twists, and while waiting guests can watch their food being prepared in the open kitchen. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PTASW Marcelli‘s D-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcelli‘s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (olives here, cheese case there), although it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With an open kitchen, Marcelli‘s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya, open 11:00 - 24:00) and pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya, open 12:00 24:00). QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. €. PTASW

Langust C-1, PS Bolshoy pr. 84, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 56 00, www.restoranlangust.ru. It is immediately apparent upon entering that they take their seafood here very seriously indeed. You will be greeted by a massive concierge desk, a table offering glossy catalouges describing their chef, ingredients and gastronomic philosophy and bubbling tanks of your soon to be appetizers. Their menu is a careful selection of live or fresh from the sea fish, lobster and shellfish. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAEBSW

pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 448 74 37, www. tgifridays.com. It‘s all here. License plates and sports tchotchkes on the walls. Wait staff displaying pieces of flair and broad smiles. Gargantuan portions of fried appetizers, burger plates and sizzling fajitas. Even the middle of the road radio rock. Truth be told, it‘s a bit disconcerting. Our waitress was overwhelmed with joy at being able to practice her English and offered us all kinds of upgrades from cheese on the fries (mozzarella, American or blue), to lemon with the Coca Cola and thank heaven, leftovers can be wrapped up to go. So when you‘re aching after getting a third of the way through you‘re meal, just say the magic word and you‘ll find tomorrow can also be Friday. Also located at Pulkovo 2 airport and Staraya Derevnya. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PAS

Italian
teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 941 90 90, www.brerabar. ru/. A new and interesting menu has appeared on the Italian gastronomic map of the city. BRERA Bar is named in honour of the famous quarter of Brera in Milan, which is famous for its restaurants, museums, art galleries, and fashion boutiques. The chef has created a menu that features not only Italian classics, but also Russian and European dishes in interesting new interpretations. Every Friday BRERA Bar hosts an evening of Milanese aperitifs and free and unlimited Italian appetizers are served after any drink is ordered. We think that this is a great way to spend a Friday night out. It is not a very large restaurant, so reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PASW

BRERA Bar C-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiral-

Shchyot budte dobry – Check please!
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Restaurants

Summer is here! And lucky you - there are literally hundreds of places to hang out al fresco and enjoy the sun. Here we’ve picked out what we think are some of the city’s best roof top terraces and bars.

Up on the roof
Due to strict planning laws in St. Petersburg you will never find yourself towering over the city from great skyscrapers (which for the architectural beauty of the city is a good thing), although there are a number of good places where you can enjoy rooftop views and the unbridled sunshine that usually comes with them. Sleek, discreet and more than a little snobby, Mansarda’s large roof terrace has a candid view of the nearby St. Isaac’s Cathedral and stays open late for sunset cocktails. Over the street at the 5-star St. Petersburg Renaissance Baltic hotel, they also have a great view over the Cathedral’s golden dome from their 6th Floor Terrace. For fine dining up on the roof, the gorgeous roof top restaurant of the Taleon Imperial Hotel - Victoria - is a top spot whilst W Hotel’s miXup bar up on the roof adjacent to St. Isaac’s

Cathedral is the place for the city’s glitterati. Another great option for roof-top dining with a view on, among others, the Hermitage you can experience at Bellevue Brasserie, on the top floor of the Kempinski Moika 22 hotel. You’ll feel like you own the city (see picture above!). Over on the Petrograd Side (PS) next to the football stadium, Italian restaurant Makaronniki does a fine line in relaxed rooftop eating and drinking - it’s so relaxed in fact that they even have some sun loungers set up for young ladies who want to top up their tan. The upmarket Nevsky Centre shopping mall, has a roof terrace restaurant called Moskva which has great birds eye views of Nevsky Prospekt. Finally those on low budgets or in search of a young artistic crowd should head to the roof terrace on top of the Loft Project Etagi art centre where the food and the beer is as cheap they come. Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. €€€. Green Room E-3, 3rd floor, Loft project ETAGI, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 80 03, www.loftprojectetagi.ru. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 06:00. €. Makaronniki C-2, pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. Mansarda C-3, Pochtamskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda. ru. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. miXup D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg. com. Q Open Sun - Thu 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €€. Moskva E-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www. ginzaproject.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. The 6th Floor Terrace E-3, St. Petersburg Renaissance Baltic hotel, Pochtamtskaya ul. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 00. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. €€. Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taleonimperialhotel.com. QOpen 07:30 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€.

Bellevue Brasserie D-2, Kempinski Hotel Moika 22,

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Nightlife
James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in a vintage basement features one of the longest bars in town. The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden butcher’s block. Also at Kamennoostrovsky pr. 45 (metro Petrogradskaya). QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PAESW
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar clutter which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on Rubinsteina ulitsa. What they are missing in history they make up for in space however. Mollie’s Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, meaning there’s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwick is a real English pub through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter with the punters, there’s premiership football on the tv, real ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PASW (+7) 812 570 46 25, www.shamrock.spb.ru. This cosy Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes dancers of the Mariinsky come here incognito for a drink after their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 big screens, including English Premiership football, American NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAESW taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass. ru. Another local homage to Russia’s love affair with British culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and there’s also even a bright red room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe’ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

Nightlife
William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vossand is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. Staff are very friendly and the DJ sets are often very good. Q Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW

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Mollie’s Mews D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 5,

Artsy and Underground
(+7) 812 998 12 90, www.atelierbar.ru. This three storey, rough-at-the-edges bar/club, just round the corner from the hectic Dumskaya ‘bar street’, has a bit of squat feel to it but is moving with the times and has updated its interiors to make things a little more comfortable.The crumbling concrete walls have been given a lick of pain and the toilets have become less sess-pit style than previously. Atelier attracts a predominately grungy student set and can feel a bit too ‘young’ for some. The music is as unpredictable as the face control but given the proximity of so many other bars you can always hop out and try another venue and pop in later to see how things are swinging. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PEW

Atelier Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel.

Cafe-Bar Produkty E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer. Just to make you feel extra special, you have to ring the door bell to get in. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAEW
tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl? QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 06:00. PASW

Pickwick Pub E-2, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya,

Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr.,

The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!

Borodabar D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. This hole-in-thewall sized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg’s burgeoning underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people

Bars and Pubs
(+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they’ve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious pub grub and you may find you’ve spent everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends, as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAESW pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. PALSW

Abeerdeen E-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel.

Shamrock C-3, Ul. Dekabristov 27, MSadovaya, tel.

Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya

Telegraph E-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old man’s pub where you can find dozens of single men who’ve got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their lonesome. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW The Office Pub D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It’s one of those offices where you don’t mind staying late, but doing overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW

To read about even more clubs and bars in St. Peterburg check out our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Nightlife
Clubs
Avrora E-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru. Set in supposedly the site of the first disco in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad in the 1970s), Avrora has recently been taken over by Yaroslav Pomogaykin of Jagger Club fame. It bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions with a bowlshaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which features smaller concerts and other events. The programme features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River and the Avrora Cruiser. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PLEW 812 929 82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. This slick black and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one that says dress rich and spend money. Their cocktails are good compared to the sad orange juice and vodka (‘the screwdriver’) that you may get served in the average bar, although they take a long time to arrive. There’s also an elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe VIPs in attendance - until it’s pole dancing time, of course. Free karaoke on Wednesday nights and frequent guest DJs at the weekend. Q Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PAESW

Nightlife
Live Music Clubs
St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and there are a wide range of live music clubs to choose from where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian bands. For the better known names you should head to the bigger concert halls such as A2, Cosmonavt, Avrora, Dada or Zal Ozhidaniya. A2 and Avrora in particular, are very large and modern clubs, with multiple stages, and are great places for seeing foreign touring club acts and established local groups. If you prefer to step into the underground there are a number of great intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique and the GEZ-21 experimental sound centre in the neighbouring Pushkinskaya art centre usually tend towards rock, indie and alternative bands, while intimate clubs such as Dada are also favourites for underground rock and punk bands. Avrora club E-2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru Club A2 D-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. cosmonavt.su Club Zal Ozhidaniya D-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www. clubzal.com. Dada D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 47, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 921 424 39 69, www.dadaclub.ru Fish Fabrique E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57, www.fishfabrique.ru GEZ D-3 Pushkinskaya 10, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 58, www.gez21.ru

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Cocktail bars
tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW

Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya,

Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky

Barrel D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Jazz and Blues
JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club.spb.ru. It’s hard to believe that this intimate, little club can hold more than 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of tables and standing space around the bar, for the people who forget to book a table. It’s popular with the city’s artsy scene and with people who know their jazz. It has original performances by top-notch musicians playing just about anything from experimental jazz, to acid jazz to blues. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW

Graf-in C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. The English meaning of grafin is “carafe” which is fitting since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is clear that Grafin caters to the more glamorous crowd. Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Grafin offers a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry Cheesecake”. An extensive food menu includes the usual Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass and steaks. A separate menu gives you the option to order hookahs for 1,500 - 2,500Rbl an hour, during which the tobacco is changed four times. During the week it’s pretty quiet, but on the weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table reservations are free! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW Zing Bar D-3, Lomonosova ul. 14, MDostoevskaya. Cocktails, Russia’s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Café del Mar soundtrack, it’s possible!) are the draw cards of this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you can’t actually see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly innovative move it’s all non-smoking and there’s little in the way of face control. The menu focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old’ (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAGW

Radiobaby D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www.

radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

Show Hall Atmosfera Lesnoy pr. 48, MLesnaya, tel.

(+7) 812 907 62 62, www.showhall-atmosfera.ru. The theatrical and gloriously kitsch Show Hall Atmosfera encompasses all kinds of entertainment under one roof. Here you’ll find a festive atmosphere with larger-than-life shows featuring not only well-known singers, but also dancing fountains, colourful laser shows and sometimes even acrobats. The interior is beyond imagination with huge pillars inspired by Greek Gods surrounding the immense amphitheatre style set-up. Not just a place for dancing and enjoying live entertainment, Atmosfera also boats an extensive menu of European and Asian cuisine. Q Open Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Entrance to the show 500Rbl. PTALVESW

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club E-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club. ru. Russian blues stars play songs with their soul and other instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it feels as though Jimmy Hendrix is still alive - if he is, he’s probably a frequent visitor! The kitchen serves excellent Russian and Georgian food. If you wonder why it takes so long before you get your order: it’s all made fresh. We recommend booking a table in advance, the joint is always packed. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAE The Hat Bar E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 9, MChernyshevskaya.
If you add whiskey and jazz together you get The Hat. The Hat boasts 30 different types of whiskey and nine different types of bourbon. However, if you aren’t a huge whiskey fan, the expert barmen can create any drink or cocktail you desire. The bar is designed to look like an old-time American bar that you would see in classic Hollywood road movies. There is live music everyday and when the live music stops, jazz plays continuously in the background. The soothing jazz rhythms are accompanied by the clanking of drink glasses and lively chatter, which creates a vibrant atmosphere that is sure to brighten anyone’s mood. QOpen 17:00 until last guest. PEW

Tyomnoe – dark Svetloe – light (for beer)
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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sightseeing
Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 280Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl.

sightseeing
Hermitage

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Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance
from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.

Photo by Ilya Schegolev St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials
nastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora. org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.

Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Mo-

Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab.

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab.

3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

St. Isaac’s Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd-

Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314

Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab.,

03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum‘s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

June - July 2013

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sightseeing
Pier with Lions
Admiralteiskaya nab. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 08 77, www.boattrip.ru. One of the joys of St. Petersburg is the chance to go boating along the canals and rivers. You really get a different perspective of the city from the water and the reflections of the coloured sky and palaces are enchanting. At the central landing-stage Pier with Lions they offer regular water water trips every hour along the Neva River, the Gulf of Finland, the city’s canals and even to the fountains of Peterhof. They have tours with audioguides in different languages, special jazz tours, BBQ evenings, a bar and a VIP lounge. QAdmission: tickets for adults range from 400 - 1,000Rbl. Online booking and discount for children, students and return tickets. PAUTKE

sightseeing
Smolny Cathedral F-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth the climb to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once the centre-piece of a convent founded to educate young noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition hall with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl.

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Museums
Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a,
MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-convertedmuseum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.

Lyrical City
53, M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 72 39, www.akhmatova.spb.ru. In this former palace you can visit the flat where Russia‘s greatest poetess lived for almost 30 years. Ten rooms chronologicall y represent ten eras. Photographs and artefacts from Akhmatova‘s hard and fascinating life are on display; books of her poetry that never left the printing house and letters from her imprisoned lover. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions of other artists. Audio-guides in English, German and French; free texts in English in the rooms. Q Open 10:30 - 18:30, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60-200Rbl. Admission to the garden of the Fountain House free. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Central Landing-Stage Pier with Lions D-2,

Anna Akhmatova Museum E-3, Liteiny pr.

Churches and Monasteries
Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking, white and red striped building was finished. Across from the church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his murder. The church served as a museum during Soviet times but was revived as a place of worship in 1999. The palace currently houses an elderly person‘s home. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). Sat services 10:00, 18:00.

St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter, which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.

MusEros, Museum of Erotica E-3, Ligovsky pr.

43/45,, MLigovsky pr. 43/45, tel. (+7) 812 905 03 94, www.музэрос.рф. The collection of the first real museum of erotica features several dozen exhibits spread out over five halls featuring everything from Japanese erotic engravings and time machines from the time of Catherine the Great to BDSM materials and Soviet propaganda posters. There is a 3D viewing hall on the premises as well showing soft core erotica, although it plans to show more educational programming in the future. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 490Rbl.

Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www. ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Some information about exhibits is available in English. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). Suvorov Memorial Museum F-2, Ul. Kirochnaya 43, Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27. Although in need of some serious reconstruction, this cathedral still manages to impress because of its vastness and big blue domes which overlook the nearby Fontanka canal and a (clothing) market. The cathedral can hold up to 3000 people simultaneously. Inside look out for a special column, made of the iron of captured rifles during the Russian-Turkey war in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.
MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www. suvorovmuseum.ru. Although this museum takes the name of Suvorov, the great war general of Empress Catherine the Great, it actually covers much more than the military accomplishments of one man. There are comparative history displays of war and battle of the 18th century all over Europe, the deeds of Napoleon and the uniforms and regalia of the time. The building itself is also worth seeing, built in 1904 following a decree from Nicholas II in a grand style to accentuate what is Russia‘s first memorial museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission 20-250Rbl.

E-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, w w w. md.spb.ru. Dostoevsk y‘s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literar y and memorial (his apartment and belongings). The audio-guide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired him and photographs of the house where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people from 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.

F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum

Literature Museum C-2, Nab. Makarova 4, M Sportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 05 02, www.pushkinskijdom.ru. Known as the Pushkin House, this museum preserves some real literary treasures. As well as works by Great Russian wri ters Lermontov and Tolstoy, you can find the writing-table of the great symbolist Blok. Did you know that the museum holds an astounding 12,000 manuscripts by poet Pushkin? The museum is situated on the second floor of the Institute for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from 1,000Rbl for 25 people group. June - July 2013

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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sightseeing
Petersburg’s Waterways Modern Art Centres
Creative space Weavers (Tkachi) E-4, Nab. Obvodnogo
kan. 60, MObvodny Kanal, tel. (+7) 812 319 25 85, www. tkachi.com. The fifth floor of the Tkachi Creative Space is a 2000-square-meter multifunctional area for exhibitions, performances, master classes, lectures, festivals, concerts, fairs and more. The space also includes a small bookshop named for Jorge Luis Borges and a cozy café. The building is named after the Russian word for weavers (tkachi). The renovation of this former cotton-spinning and weaving mill was partially completed in 2010. At the moment only the first and fifth floor are in use while the others remain under renovation. On the first floor there are a lot of retail shops where you can buy designer clothes and bags (we especially like Banya Concept Store), eye glasses, books and even bicycles. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Special events 50 - 100Rbl.

sightseeing

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Tours around St. Petersburg
(+7) 812 232 81 63, www.libertytour.ru. This travel company specialises in wheelchair accessible tours in and around St. Petersburg. The guided tours work with specially fitted transport vans and take in the regular sights such as the Hermitage as well as general sightseeing and to the city suburbs such as Peterhof. Tour length and prices vary from the 1hr Spilled Blood Tour up to the 5hr jaunt to Peterhof. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Tours from 1,000Rbl. AU

Also known as the ‘Venice of the North’, St Petersburg is famous for its waterways. And with a multitude of canals and rivers, not to mention the Gulf of Finland right on the doorstep, Petersburg very much deserves that title. Founded in 1703, the city was originally built on a swamp (explaining the incredibly deep metro lines!), and the city’s waterways have played an important role in Petersburg life ever since. The city’s founder, Peter the Great, intended the Neva river to be the ‘main street’ of St Petersburg, with Petersburgers learning to punt like the Venetians in summer, and walking or sledging on the ice in winter. To start, there was only a single wooden bridge crossing the Neva, and it was not until 1850, nearly 150 years later, that the first permanent bridge was built. Now, of course, the rivers and canals are littered with bridges – there are 342 of them, in fact – some narrow, suited only for pedestrians, others vast, buzzing with the sound of vehicles, horns, shouting and revving. The three most famous rivers in St Petersburg are the Neva, the Moika, and Fontanka. The Neva, at 1300-2000 feet wide and adorned with imperial architecture, is the most impressive. The Moika is considerably smaller, but still lined with fascinating 18th Century architecture, including the Stroganov and Yusopov Palaces, the New Holland Arch and the notable St Micheal’s Castle. Watch out for the Blue Bridge, Petersburg’s widest bridge at 97.3m, which spans the Moika at St Isaac’s Square. Like the Neva, Fontanka has always played an important role in the geography of the city. Originally, the river marked the edge of the St Petersburg, although the city has since extended far beyond Fontanka’s banks. All three, along with the numerous other rivers and canals of St Petersburg, have played a huge role in the literature and art so strongly associated with the city, and along their banks you can find the houses (many of which are now museums) of many famous writers and artists, including Alexander Pushkin, Anna Akhmatova and Ivan Turgenev. The rivers and canals are at their best in the summer. They come alive, filled with boats. There are boat tours, boat busses and boat taxis. And there is no better way to see the city. The banks of the main rivers and canals are filled with beautiful buildings: the Winter Palace, the Admiralty, the Peter and Paul Fortress, to name just a few. There are nightly boat trips under the raised bridges, under the twilight sky of the White Nights, and during the day there are boats constantly taking people up and down the river, allowing them to enjoy the warm breeze and the beautiful views St Petersburg has to offer.

(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. Currently they have around 2000 works so make sure you give yourself some time. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.

Liberty Ltd, travel company for the disabled, tel.

Musical Gatchina
Gatchina 45km south of St. Petersburg, Palace:
Krasnoarmeisky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92. It may have the austere look of a military institution, but inside you can see that the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, although the rooms are not so luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has various temporary and permanent exhibitions including a weaponry display and the church at the top of Gatchina‘s main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina‘s palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration work is still in progress. The nice leafy park is a great place to stretch your legs! Q Admission to the park is free. Palace admission: 60 - 300Rbl. Audioguide 200Rbl. GETTING THERE: from Moskovskaya metro, take bus N431 or marshrutka K18; or from Baltisky station, take a train to Gatchina station, which is also (confusingly) called Baltisky. Park open 24hrs. Palace open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and the first Tue of the month.

Petersburg Voyage E-3, Ligovsky pr. 56-G, off. 609,
MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 967 513 26 80, www.petersburgvoyage.com. The Petersburg Voyage travel agency offers various private and group tours and excursions all over St. Petersburg, Russia and the surrounding area. Any personal itinerary of events and places can be accommodated, or visitors can join pre-existing tours and excursions, featuring many of the most popular sights. Petersburg Voyage only works with the best professional guides in St. Petersburg who are experienced, polite, and knowledgeable. Tourists’ needs are always put first and they so far have always left satisfied. Q TAU

Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. They also have a little strawberry farm where Israeli bumblebees are working very hard on pollinating strawberry. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl.

Peterswalk - Walking, Bicycle and Boat Tours

tel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some extremely informative and downright friendly guides makes going on a Peter‘s Walking Tour one of the best choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Russian society and with their ‘alternative‘ routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real city. By the end of your tour you feel inspired and educated. In the summer they also have bicycle tours and new canal boat tours: enjoy the view of Saint Petersburg sitting on a brand new comfortable boat with an open deck at the back and a sun-roof inside area in the front. Q Original walking tour daily 10:30 (Vladimirsky pr. 1). Walking tour 650Rbl.

06.07 Saturday

23:00 The Night of Music in Gatchina

The Gatchina Palace, www.gatchinapalace.ru. The Night of Music in Gatchina festival returns in 2013 with the theme, “Between Chaykovsky and James Bond: Young Virtuosos of the World in Gatchina”. As usual the festival will take place in Palace Park under the open sky. This is its fourth incarnation and the first to garner an international status with American, Norwegian, Belgian and Russian conductors and soloists on the bill to perform this five-hour concert of classical music and its crossover genres, such as jazz and popular soundtrack music from Hollywood blockbusters and Broadway musicals. This unique festival will close with its traditional fireworks show set to Chaikovsky‘s 1812 Overture.

Sptn!k C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, www.sptnik.com. Those who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than just sweatily bumping into them in metro carriages and late night clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service offered by sptn!k. It‘s a simple scheme whereby local volunteers take visitors into the best parts of their daily life; whether it be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas, communal apartments or quirky courtyards, every tour is unique, insightful and enlightening. Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they aim to give tourists a slice of real life and show them their favourite parts of the city which tourists might never get to see. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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shopping
Galeria
Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-atheart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

Shopping
Bookshops
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A Biblioteka Projector E-3, 4th floor, Loft Project Etagi, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. +7 911 218 74 39. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AKW Bukvoed D-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AK

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Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 80 07, www.britannia-spb.ru. QOpen

Russian Souvenirs
There are dozens of traditional souvenirs you can bring back with you from Russia. Top everyone’s list is usually a Russian doll, but there are a lot more other things worth spending your money on too.

Matryoshka’s

Gifts and Souvenirs
Art - Boutique Dynasty C-2, VO, 6-ya Liniya 3, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 09 19. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. AU La Petite Opera Gallery D-3, Grand Hotel Europe and Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Nevsky Souvenir Shop D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.nevskysouvenir.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Onegin Art Gallery souvenirs and paintings D-3, Ul. Italyanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www.onegin-gallery.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30. AUL Pavloposadskie Platki Shop E-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A YellowKorner C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner. com. Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Petersburg, where concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and exhibition spaces. In one of the authentic mansions of Bolshoy Prospect recently opened an international gallery YellowKorner, which presents a wide panorama of contemporary and vintage photography worldwide. YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift for your loved ones. It‘s time to buy art! QOpen 11:00 21:00. PAW

Russian dolls are the quintessential Russian souvenir. Usually painted with the cute faces of a Russian girl or stylised family, you can also get them painted with dictators of the world, former US presidents or even just left plain to paint yourself. Prices will usually depend on the number of dolls and the intricacy and range of colours of the design.

Lacquer Boxes

Russian lacquer boxes are some of the finest Russian handicrafts still produced in Russia. Creating the distinctive shiny black layer using many coats of lacquer and then painting on the front minute scenes from Russian fairytales and folklore, requires very skilled masters. Usually the real ones feel a lot heavy than regular painted wooden boxes and should have the signature of the artist both sides of the lid.

Birch wood crafts

The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair.

Nevsky Centre
Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. This shopping centre in the historical heart of the city is brand-spanking new and looks it inside and out. Anchored by Stockmann, the Finnish department store, it is aimed at more upscale shoppers. You can find glamourous clothing outlets, cosmetics shops and those sophisticated bits and bobs for the house all under one roof. There‘s also a spa, gym, roof top restaurant and a supermarket, located in the basement of the shopping centre. It has standard local foodstuffs and European products for both the budget cook and the serious gourmet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

Shopping centres
21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Eliseevsky Store E-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Grand Palace Boutiques Gallery D-3, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italyanskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALK Passage D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Sennaya Shopping Centre D-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 38/(+7) 812 740 46 39, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALK Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW

DLT Department store В-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

Caravelle
Caravelle Vladimirsky Passage, Vladimirsky pr.
19, tel. (+7) 911 919 21 01. If you‘re a man planning to make a gorgeous present to your woman in order to make her feel happy and look stunning, then go to the new lingerie shop Caravelle! If you‘re a woman who‘s looking for the right set of fabulous underwear in order to please yourself and make men adore you, then go to Caravelle! Situated in Vladimirsky Passage, right in the heart of St. Petersburg, this shop offers a wide range of awesome Italian and French underwear as well as swimsuits and leisure wear. Good service and reasonable prices will definitely surprise you. And, by the way, the owner of the shop, Anna, who speaks fluent English and German, will kindly meet you and help you if requested. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALK

Vintage and Second-hand
M Obnodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 457 19 48, www. banyaconcept.com. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. ALKW Sweeter Shop D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 26, MNevsky pr., www.sweetershop.ru. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00.

Flower Etiquette
If giving flowers to someone, you have no need to fear. A nice bunch of blooms is always acceptable. That is, if you give an odd number. Even numbers are only for funerals and the dead. As to what type of flower is a good one usually depends on the recipient. The red rose is considered as romantic in Russia as it is in most other countries. Take note though that due to the tradition of only giving an odd number, there can be no dozen red roses – just eleven. Yellow roses signify friendship. Tulips are used to express sympathy, yet yellow tulips hint to a hidden love. Orchids celebrate beauty and chrysanthemums undying youth and health.

Banya Concept Store Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60,

Markets
Kuznechny market E-3, Kuznechny per. 3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 41 61. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. N Sennoy market D-3, Moskovsky pr. 4a, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 310 12 09, www.sennoyrynok.piter-center. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. N St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

For a more detailed guide to all the shopping options in St. Petersburg check the Shopping pages on our website st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

June - July 2013

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expat and Lifestyle
In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking advantage of these connections.

expat AND Lifestyle
International Schools/Pre-schools
strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) D-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, M Chernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo-

The Expat Experience
Tell us something about yourself? My name is Simon Zaglmann and I was born in 1977. My wi fe and our little 11 month old son arrived in St. Petersburg in October last year, when I became th e G eneral Manager for Kempinski Hotel Moika 22. We have lived in Berlin and Munich, wh ere we com e from, and have since travelled the world. My last two jobs were in Jakarta and Bangkok where I helped to open new Kempinski hotels. What were your first impressions of St. Petersburg? We arrived just before the winter did and first we had to buy new clothes. Since we had been living in Asia, we had no warm clothes what so ever. But coming from the Bavarian mountains, the cold was no problem. I was pleasantly surprised by the beauty of St. Petersburg, which I had never visited before. The people here are nice and friendly, and, I have to say, that the image that sometimes exists in the West is completely wrong. What are your favorite restaurants and why? Well, it’s not just because I work at the Kempinski, but our rooftop restaurant Bellevue Brasserie is spectacular. The view is just amazing and I love the food. But ok, if I have to mention something else, I would also recommend Mansarda. Again a rooftop restaurant, as I like to have some space around me and a nice view. What are the biggest challenges for the city to attract more foreign visitors in summer and winter? First and foremost, ease or cancel the visa regulations. A city weekend trip is so popular in Europe and this could be the same for St. Petersburg. This would immensely increase tourist traffic to the city. What would you recommend a first-time visitor to St. Petersburg? Do what I did. A tourist trip around the city with a guide. I arrived in St Petersburg on a Thursday and on the Saturday after that’s exactly what I did. You get to see a little bit of everything and you get a good grasp of the cultural richness of the city. Only afterwards you realise that you had better extend your stay because there is no way you can see everything in just a few days. And obviously, the Hermitage should be second on the list.

Accountants and Lawyers
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Acsour D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, business centre Geneum, 4th floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Baker & McKenzie C-2, Bolloev Business Center, per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 303 90 00, www.bakermckenzie.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. EMG (Accountants & Consultants) D-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG E-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www. pgplaw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers D-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Institute for Enterprise Issues E-4, Ul. Marata 92, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Avenir Group E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. QOpen

Religious Services Business associations
pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky

Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) D-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3,

Relocation and Supplies
AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
tel. (+7) 812 921 412 02 51, www.aaa-russia.com.

Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants)

D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lutheran church of Peter and Paul D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www. petrikirche.ru. Q Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00.

Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church

MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com. Usual Sunday services at 12:30 (2 times a month in Swedish, other 2 times in English). Sunday school for young children.

Cultural Centres and Libraries
American Corners E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46,
amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www.

Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr.,

Internations
InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.

im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik C-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, M Sennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Q Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www. instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. The Netherlands Institute E-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. YESOD Jewish Community Home C-1, Bol. Raznochinnaya ul. 25A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.

E-2, Kovensky per. 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 272 04 42, www.kovensky.ru. Q Daily services in Russian Mon 19:00; Tue - Fri 08:30, 19:00, Sat 08:30, 19:00, Sun 10:30, 12:00, 19:00. Service in Polish every Sun 09:00. St. Michael‘s Lutheran Church C-2, VO, Sredny pr.18 B, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 33 17, www.stmihail.ru. Services Thu 19:00, Sun 11:00. After the Sunday service the Bible hour is held. Sunday school (except for the summer months). Concerts on Saturday and Sunday.

Romanian Catholic Church of Lord Mother of God

tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Daily services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), 17:00 (French). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Clinics and Hospitals
American Medical Clinic and Hospital D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/ (+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Euromed Medical Center F-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Medi International Clinic E-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. PTAU Russian - Finnish clinic Scandinavia E-2, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PTAU st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library

Expat Contacts
Deutsche Runde/Stammtisch, tel. (+7) 921 879 99 62, spb@russia-consulting.eu. Dutch Club St. Petersburg, www.nlvpetersburg.com. English Communication Club, tel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, encc.ru@gmail.com, www.encc.ru. International Women‘s Club (IWC), iwcstpete@ gmail.com, www.iwcstpete.com. June - July 2013

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expat and lifestyle
Russian for Expats
Sobaku s’est’ – to eat the whole dog
Usually used in the past tense, as in “sobaku s’el” or “ate the whole dog”, this seemingly bizarre expression means to have gained a skill, a great amount of experience, or mastery in a certain field. First recorded by V. I. Dahl, the original phrase was “to eat the dog, but choke on the tail”, denoting someone was carrying out a very difficult task but failed because of a small trifle. The phrase’s origin is still disputed; some say it comes from times of great hunger when those who were masters of survival would even eat dogs to stay alive.

Getting Around
Leaving St. Petersburg
By Plane St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long. Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi companies see page 9. Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnologichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.

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Banyas, Spas and Pools
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.d1a. ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. A Holiday Club Spa and Wellness C-2, Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge, Birzhevoy per. 2-4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 14, www.clubeasyfit.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Rimskie kanikuly (Roman holidays) A-2, Park Inn Pribaltiskaya, ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 47 17, www.romanholidays.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. AKDC Royal Thai D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 54 06/(+7) 911 157 15 15, www. royalthai.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PL

Degtyarnie Bathhouses F-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1,

Public transport and Taxis
Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver. Bus/Trolleybus/Tram – Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 25Rbl. Metro – Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. One metro ride costs 28Rbl. Marshrutka – The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows a set route, hailing it down like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘astanavites pazhalusta’. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your change down the front of the bus towards the driver to pay. Taxis – Although there are official ’taxis’, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000 tel (+7) 812 7000000, www.taxi7000000.ru

Entertainment Centres
Liden & Denz E-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups, though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A mova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Divo Ostrov B-1, MKrestovsky Ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 323 97 07, www.divo-ostrov.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00 Fun City E-3, Nevsky pr. 112, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 14 02, fcity.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAG Happylon E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAKW

Bowling Park D-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, ul. Efi-

Fryday
Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend with some like-minded company? Sure, St. Petersburg is full of great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the city’s nightlife on your own – which is where Fryday comes in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via the group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar every few weeks. The St. Petersburg edition is one of several all over Europe, and the original Fryday founders – a pair of expat Swedes in Kiev – estimate that any given weekend might see 500 people or more attending these meet-ups anywhere from Warsaw to Almaty. For more details, see www.facebook.com/fryday.saintpetersburg.

Train Stations
iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.

Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti-

Mademoiselle Cake
Mademoiselle Cake is Leonie, a creative mother originally from the Netherlands who loves to bake and decorate cakes. Speaking Russian, English, and Dutch she bakes cupcakes and cakes to order, and organises cupcakedecorating courses. All cakes are hand-made using only the finest and freshest ingredients filled with vanilla butter cream and jam and covered with fondant icing. Her cupcakes are elegant and sweet homemade treats and are a festive addition to any party, special occasion or ordinary afternoon. Just check with Leonie as to what you have in mind and she will do the rest for you. Mademoiselle Cake will teach you how to color, roll and shape the icing in her cupcake-decorating courses (990Rbl per person, minimum of 3 people) and holds cupcake parties for from 4-8 children (6+years), so treat your little one to one of the sweetest parties around (550Rbl per child). Everything is provided, including four cupcakes for each child to decorate. Treats and cakes from 750Rbl. Orders can be picked up in the Elizarovskaya district or delivered for a fee of 600Rbl.

Buying Tickets
If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation.

Getting around
Where is the…? Is it far? Right/left Straight ahead Ticket office Open/closed Entrance/exit Push/pull Ticket Return (ticket) Entrance forbidden No smoking Gde…? Eta daleko? Napravo/nalevo Pryamo Kassa Otkryto/zakryto Где…? Это далеко? Направо/налево Прямо Касса Открыто/ закрыто Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выход Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе Bilet Билет Tuda i obratno Туда и обратно Vkhod Вход запрещен zapreshchyon Ne kurit Не курить

Buses
go kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal.ru Tickets for domestic and international buses.QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. Ecolines Podyezdnoy per. 3, Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 21 52, www.ecolines.ru QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Eurolines Russia Mitrofanyevskoe shosse 2-1, MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

City Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvodno-

Mademoiselle Cake tel. (+7) 905 219 76 01,
www.mademoiselle-cake.jimdo.com

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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GETTING AROUND
Street Register
1-28-ya liniya B-2/B-3/C-2/C-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Anichkov most E-3 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Baskov per. E-2 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Blokhina ul. C-2 Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1/C-2 Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Efimova ul. D-3 Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Galernaya ul. C-3 Glinki ul. C-3 Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Grafsky per. E-3 Griboedova kan. nab. C-3/C-4/D-2/D-3 Grivtsova per. D-3 Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Iskusstv pl. D-3 Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Karavannaya ul. E-3 Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Kronversky pr. D-1 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Letny sad D-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Liteiny most E-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Marata ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2

GETTING AROUND
Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2/D-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3/C-4/D-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2/E-3 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Shvedsky per. D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Solyanoy per. E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2/F-3 Spassky per. D-3 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2/B-3/C-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2/F-3 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1/F-2 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Troitsky most D-2 Tuchkov most C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 Universitetskaya nab. C-2/C-3 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Vosstaniya ul. E-2/E-3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 Zagorodny pr. D-3/D-4/E-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3

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Abbreviations Ul. – Ulitsa Pr. – Prospekt Pl. – Ploshchad Bul. – Bulvar Per. – Pereulok Kan. – Kanal Nab. – Naberezhnaya Bol. – Bolshaya Mal. – Malaya

Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

This map gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013

Mosque Northern-Europe’s biggest mosque, near the Peter and Paul Fortress, is a place of worship for up to 5,000 Muslims. Although officially 300,000 followers of the prophet Mohammed live in St. Petersburg, the mosque is almost never full. It was built in 1913 and is the northernmost mosque in the world. During Soviet times medicines were stored here.

Cruiser Avrora The battle ship, anchored off the
banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum.

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RUSSIA
History
9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.

MOSCOW

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Introduction
Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometres large with a population of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life. Although the level of development in provincial towns is still not on pace with the largest cities, but that is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of their country. Summer is a wondrous time to make a visit the sun comes out of its slumber, and the plethora of holidays guarantee that there will be plenty of special events and celebrations on offer. In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected Moscow, plus four provincial cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The other four cities are: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, and the host of the sporting event, the Summer 2013 Universiade, Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia’s early trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin, nearby Staraya Russa, an old town that served as a summer getaway for Russian writer Dostoevsky and Nizhny Novgorod, Russia’s fifth largest city located on the banks of the mighty Volga river. In Moscow please look for our print guide in hotels or check us out online and download our free iPhone app. at: www.inyourpocket.com/russia/moscow.

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

The Kremlin
Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. Once inside the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower.

Red Square
The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other end you will find the State History museum which details the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.

The Kremlin Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open

10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral Square 100-350Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.

Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl. State History Museum Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl.

GUM Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Red

Getting There
Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

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MOSCOW
Russian Art
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, beginning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collection which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages.

Veliky Novgorod

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Tretyakov Gallery Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Krymsky Val
10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU

Veliky Novgorod
Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.

Literature and Theatre
Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.

If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Ilmen lake

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free.

Luxury Trains to Moscow
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www. megapolis-te.ru

Sightseeing
Veliky Novgorod Kremlin
The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument.

Enjoy the great outdoors
Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patriarch’s Ponds.

Hotels
Comrade Hostel Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd floor (go under arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya Ul. Kalanchevskaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh Hotel Ermitage Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Ul. 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. hhhhh Peking Hotel Ul. Bol. Sadovaya 5, M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. ru. hhhh st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Getting There
By train: There are many trains a day travelling to Veliky Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and 17:00. From Vitebsky station (metro Pushkinskaya) trains depart at 07:40. Trains return to St. Petersburg at 06:15, 08:05, 18:45 (to Moskovsky station) and 18:27 (to Vitebsky station). By bus: In addition there are also numerous buses
(journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 36. Buses to St. Petersburg run hourly until 21:30. The journey takes around 3,5 hours and costs 370Rbl.

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VELIKY NOVGOROD
Eating and drinking
theatre), tel. (+7) 8162 987 000, www.casa-del-mar. ru. Getting out to this trendy boat café/bar/restaurant/club concept is quite a mission and the view through the boat’s windows is nothing to get excited about. Better stick to the internal view of over-dressed rich locals sipping on cocktails and dining on the usual European/sushi menu favourites. The food is not the best you’ll eat in Novgorod but if you’re searching for a safe Friday night experience with young upwardly mobile locals it’s probably a reliable place. Q Open Sun - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALESW (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and don’t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW

Staraya Russa
Casa del Mar Ul. Velikaya 14a (on the river behind the
Dostoevsky himself was deeply religious and the church he attended here, the Grigoryevsky church, is just one of a number of charming medieval churches of all shapes and colours that the town can boast. The town’s SpasoPreobrazhensky Monastery also has a few fine examples of small wooden-domed churches. The surrounding countryside, so far removed from busy St Petersburg, moved Dostoevsky - he gives Ivan Karamazov the line, “I love the sticky leaves in spring, the blue sky - that’s all it is. It’s not a matter of intellect or logic, it’s loving with one’s inside, with one’s stomach”.

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Sightseeing
Old Russian legend tells us of two brothers Rus and Sloven, who, four millennia ago, set off from the Black Sea to found a new homeland; Sloven created Veliky Novgorod, whilst Rus’s town on the other side of Lake Ilmen went on to become Staraya Russa. The town, of course, isn’t quite that old, having been founded somewhere around the 10th century, but is nonetheless one of Russia’s oldest cities. Its architecture reflects its heydays as a major player in the salt trade and wealthy city of the Novgorod Republic, and again as a fashionable 19th century spa resort. In tune with urbanisation in general, the town’s population is shrinking; but this is a receding tide that Staraya Russa has seen more than once before and one that may yet turn, whilst in the meantime the town is a sleepy slice of Russia’s history. It has always attracted guests from far and wide. Sometimes these were less than welcome visitors, in the form of Swedish armies, marauding gangs in the Time of Troubles before the Romanovs took power, or Hitler’s forces who nearly razed the city to the ground. In other more peaceful times of the the city these were aristocrats come to drink the town’s rejuvenating spring water. Today, it draws in visitors who seek to trace the footsteps of one of Russia’s greatest writers, Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoevsky. On the recommendation of friends he and his wife chose Staraya Russa as the spot for their summer dacha. Here, Dostoevsky could escape the suffocating streets of Petersburg and the temptation to gamble, an addiction that had drained his finances and health. Both of them soon fell in love with the spot: the quiet streets, rivers and meadows gave the writer the space he needed to write, whilst the town’s buildings and characters served as inspiration. His masterpiece The Brothers Karamazov was written in their small house here and set in an almost identical fictional town. On the opposite bank from the Dostoevskys’ house is a building known as ‘Grushenka’s House’, so named after the character in the Brothers Karamazov, for whom the house’s former occupant Agrippina Menshova supposedly served as a prototype. Though today it is still a private house, postmen will still bring here envelopes addressed to ‘Grushenka’s House’.

Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel.

Staraya Russa, nab. Dostoevskogo 42, tel. (+7) 816 525 14 77, www.novgorodmuseum.ru. This modest green and white wooden building stands on the riverbank and was the first house Dostoevsky himself ever bought. The museum has restored and preserved the Dostoevskys‘ dacha as it once was, with the ‚old fashioned, heavy red wood furniture and the surroundings‘ in which they, in Anna Dostoevskaya‘s words, ‚lived so warmly and cosily‘, along with many of the great writer‘s books, photographs and other possessions.

Dostoevsky House Museum in Staraya Russa

Polist Hotel Staraya Russa, ul. Engelsa 20, tel. (+7)

Where to stay
Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art nightclub‘. You can also enjoy the large SPA zone with indoor pool, Russian banya, Turkish bath, Finnish and herbal saunas. Access to all this is included in the price as well as to the children‘s entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162
225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh Krasnaya Izba Tourist Information Office The lovely girls at Krasnaya Izba can provide you with advice on just about everything to do in Novgorod. They have a 24hrs. hotline that you can call if you still find that you are constantly lost. Tel. (+7) 8162 998 686. Central office at Sennaya pl. 5. www.visitnovgorod.ru

307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didn’t come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent fresh bread and pizzas. It’s a bit far out so you will probably need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALEBSW 8162 946 066, www.tk-podvorie.ru. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you’ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten’ (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW

Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636

81652 375 47, www.polist-tour.ru. This hotel in Staraya Russa is named after one of the town‘s three rivers. This Western-standard hotel is generally considered to be the best in town. Its restaurant is also among the best in Staraya Russa. Though nothing fancy to look at from the outside, it looks out onto the city‘s historical centre, which is probably the way round you‘d rather have it. Each room has all mod cons and, shiny frilly bedsheets aside, is fully up to modern standards and well shot of any Soviet hangover. Q47 rooms (Room prices start at 1,400Rbl). PTAKSwW

Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)

Getting There
From St. Petersburg:
There are numerous buses (journey takes 5.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 36 (metro Baltiskaya) at 14:30 and 16:30 (daily) and at 08:45 (only Fri, Sat, Sun). From Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) you can take a nighttrain, it departs at 00:40 and arrives to Staraya Russa at 10:02.

From Veliky Novgorod:

There are numerous buses a day leaving from the central bus station at Oktyabrskaya ul. 1 (trip takes 2 hours).

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KAZAN
Exhibition Hall Manege Kremlin, MKremlevskaya,
tel. (+7) 843 567 80 67, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. This exhibition hall is located in the Kremlin’s former stables and regularly hosts photography and painting exhibitions from local artists. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon.

KAZAN
Eating and drinking
Beer Lozha Ul. Pushkina 5, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 24 36, www.ofsrussia.ru. A large Bavarian style beerhouse serving quality brews by the litre and German sausages and other meaty fare on huge wooden platters. It can get loud at the weekend, especially when the live bands kick in, but there’s also often the chance to win free beers and other prizes. The heavy wooden décor is complemented by quirky extra details such as light fittings made from beer kegs while the large windows ensure Beer Lozha maintains a light and modern edge. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW Dom Tatarskoy Kulinary Ul. Baumana 31/12,
MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 35 20, domtk. ru. Traditional Tatar cuisine in plush surroundings resplendent with bold Tatar colours and patterns. Popular with Kazan’s business community and those in government. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAEW

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Hermitage Kazan Centre Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 32, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Opened with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cultural centre regularly plays host to historical and art exhibitions brought especially to Kazan from St. Petersburg’s great Hermitage museum. Until 27 May 2012 the centre is showing a stunning exhibition of more than 200 paintings, drawings, sculptures and other artifacts from Spain dating from the 15th to the 20th centuries. Names such as Velazquez and Goya feature and alongside the stunning art, there’s also a large dedication to traditional Spanish crafts such as lace-making, carved bone, bronze and silver artistry, weaponry, pottery and glasswork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45, Fri 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon.  Tickets 50-120Rbl.

Kazan
Popularly referred to as Russia’s third capital, Kazan is the city (as accords their official slogan) ‘Where Europe meets Asia’. As the capital of the Russian Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture - with its own language and government - with Western Slavic influences and is famous for being a particularly religiously tolerant and friendly city. The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a mosque and an Orthodox cathedral and in recent years the whole city has been beautified and restored in preparation for the 2013 Summer Universiade. For those looking to see where European and Asian Russia meet and enjoy a glimpse into one of the country’s most vibrant non-Slavic republics, there’s probably no better starting point than Kazan. The undoubted must see place in Kazan is the UNESCO listed Kremlin and in particular its famous mosque and the Hermitage Kazan centre. After you’ve done the Kremlin make sure to take a walk down Ulitsa Kremlevskaya to admire the city’s 19th Century mansions, pop into the stunning Peter and Paul Cathedral along the way and then enjoy a lazy stroll along the pedestrianised Ulitsa Baumana which is full of cafes, bars and restaurants to rest up in. Download our Instant Guide at kazan.inyourpocket.com.

Kazan Kremlin
The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a beautiful new mosque and an Orthodox cathedral. The Kremlin is also the centre of the Tatar government and houses the official residence of the President of the Republic of Tatarstan. Other highlights of the Kremlin include the Hermitage Centre which has regular exhibitions from St. Petersburg’s Hermitage Museum. You can also climb the Kremlin walls behind the mosque, where there are also many vendours selling local souvenirs.

Qul Sharif Mosque Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel.

Getting There
train a day which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya). The journey takes approximately 22 hours and leaves St. Petersburg at 16:13 arriving in Kazan the next day at 14:02. From Moscow there are six trains a day which travel to Kazan and beyond. The journey takes between 11 and 14 hours depending on which train you take and all trains leave Moscow in the evening and arrive in Kazan in the early morning. Trains leave from Kazansky station (metro Komsomolskaya).

By Train: From St. Petersburg there is only one direct

Annunciation Cathedral Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Erected between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazan’s most important cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our Lady of Kazan icon, which was presented to the city by Pope John Paul II in 2005. The cathedral, which was built in a style similar to that of the Assumption cathedral in the Moscow Kremlin, was destroyed many times by fire over the centuries and following the Bolshevik revolution it suffered yet more damage as the Soviets destroyed the bell tower and other ecclesiastical buildings which surrounded it. In the 1990s concerted restoration work began and in summer 2005 the cathedral once again began to accept worshipers as it returned to its function as a working place of worship. The interior painting and iconostasis are mostly modern although many of the icons which were donated to the cathedral date back centuries. Be sure to pass behind the Cathedral to admire the spectacular view over the river.

(+7) 843 567 80 01, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. In the 16th Century prior to the invasion of Kazan a mosque stood here which was named after its leading teacher Qol Sharif. Qol Sharif died alongside his students trying to save the mosque from the Tsar’s forces, but unfortunately it was destroyed in 1522 and for centuries the site remained empty. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, with the help of many other counties including Saudi Arabia and UAE, the mosque was rebuilt, albeit in a modern style. The impressive new mosque was finally inaugurated in 2005 when Kazan celebrated its millennium and now stands as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly recognised as one of Kazan’s most worthy sights as well as Europe’s largest mosque. The Qol Sharif largely functions as a museum although thousands of Muslims do gather here to pray on major religious holidays.

Sultan Kebab Ul. Baumana 74, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 26 75. It’s certainly not the most exotic cuisine in Kazan and the quality is just above fast food, but you could also do far worse for these prices. Sultan Kebab is in fact a Turkish joint although local Tartar dishes also feature alongside the usual kebabs dripping in garlic sauce. Service is quick and you can watch everything being freshly grilled on the barbeque. Take note there is also a dining room upstairs which is much less drafty. PW

Where to stay
Courtyard by Marriott Kazan Kremlin Ul. Karla
Marksa 6, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 40 00, www.kazancourtyard.ru. New 4 star international hotel sitting directly in the shadow of Kazan’s fabulous Kremlin. Dining facilities include the Mediterranean grill restaurant and a stunning roof top bar with a bird’s eye view over the Kremlin the river. Q150 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). PTHAUFGBKW hhhh

Photo by Pavel Hellsing

Nightlife
Coyote Ugly Ul. Baumana 13, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 45 08, coyoteugly.ru/kaz. The third bar in Russia from the American chain famous for its gorgeous girls who have fast and furious skills both behind the bar and on it when they get up to pour tequila shots. As the brand demands the buzz is very much roadhouse Americana, all loud rock music, bourbon and cowboy boots. Given the sorry state of the competition in Kazan, Coyote Ugly is generally a safe bet as the best place for a big night out. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAE Cuba Libre Ul. Baumana 58, MPloshchad Tukaya,
tel. (+7) 843 253 55 32, www.cubakazan.ru. A genuine Cuban bar hidden in an alley just off Kazan’s main street. Retro postcards from Havana and pictures of Fidel and co. plaster the walls and the waitresses follow the trend by wearing cute communist outfits. The menu is filled with a Cuban and Mexican mix of dishes and of course cocktails are a hit. At the weekends this is the hottest bar for dancing in (and by far the tiniest) and entrance is usually restricted due to the extremely small floor space, so get down early, or try flashing some Spanish at the door. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAE

43/1, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 58 00, www.ibishotel.com. Great budget destination in a very central location. Kazan’s main walking street filled with restaurants and bars (ulitsa Baumana) is just around the corner and the hotel itself looks out over one of the city’s canals. The interior is the signature light and breezy Ibis with dining in the brand’s mainstay European restaurant Sud i Cie. Q155 rooms (Room prices start at 2,000Rbl). PHA6ULKW hhh

Ibis Kazan Centre Hotel Pravo-Bulachnaya ul.

By Plane: Russian airlines Aeroflot, Transaero and S7

are the main (and safest) airlines offering international transfers to Kazan. Air France and Etihad Air also offer flights to Kazan via Moscow. Flights from Moscow take around 1 hour 20 minutes and the airport is a 30 minutes drive from the city centre. Taxis from/to the airport should cost around 800Rbl. There are no direct flights to Kazan from St. Petersburg although all of the above mentioned companies offer connecting flights via Moscow.

Park Inn Kazan Ul. Lefgasta 9-11, MPloshchad Tukaya,

tel. (+7) 843 235 23 54, www.kazan.parkinn.ru. Large and colourful, this hotel wears its Park Inn standard primary colour scheme with pride. Dining is in the RBG Stone Grill restaurant while cocktails are also served in the lounge. The location is not entirely central although it is close to the widely expanding Vakhtikovsky area where much of Kazan’s older Islamic influenced architecture is located. Q151 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). PHA6UFL� GKW hhhh

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June - July 2013

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NIZHNY NOVGOROD

It may not have Moscow’s Red Square or St. Petersburg’s Winter Palace, but Nizhny Novgorod still has some pretty fascinating places to visit. Nizhny’s small but ecclectic collection of museums and art galleries has something for everyone, and if you find yourself wanting more, there are plenty of interesting places to visit outside the city too. Check out more online at nizhny-novgorod.inyourpocket.com.

Sightseeing
The Kremlin, tel. (+7) 831 422 10 80, www.ngiamz.ru. Like any good Kremlin, Nizhny’s red brick edifice overlooking the winding Volga would once have struck fear into the hearts of the baddies du jour. Even today, as it appears around the river bend to travellers arriving by boat, it is an impressive structure. Unlike Moscow’s famous Kremlin it’s no fortress and the public can wander at will through its territories. It currently houses municipal government centres, two galleries, a church and a war memorial, as well as small museums in some of the towers. But once, when cities were built on a different scale, it encircled the whole of Nizhny Novgorod and (on the whole) kept them safe from the scary world of medieval Russia. The original structure was made from wood, but the ill-advised combination of open fires and a wooden city came to a somewhat inevitable conclusion when it burnt down in 1513. It was then sensibly decided to make a stone version which when it was completed looked much as it does today. And that means: a two kilometre wall, four metres thick, thirteen towers and chock full of artillery points - not something you want to get on the wrong side of. The wrong side, in fact, was the Khanate of Kazan, nowadays just the next city along the Volga, back then locked in a bloody and prolonged argument with Moscow. Nizhny’s convenient position halfway between the two meant that it became Moscow’s ‘watch-city’, a title that came with no small risk. It suffered its fair share of attacks and sieges over the years, but proved pretty much invincible. This could be thanks to the Kremlin, or it could be thanks to its fearsome inhabitants, as legend has it. With the fall of Kazan, the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin lost its strategic importance and fell gradually into disrepair. A number of facelifts over the present decade have helped return it to something like its former glory. Nowadays you can stroll around on its grass, or take a walk inside its towering walls and enjoy the view. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission from 60Rbl.

Grand Hotel Oka Premium (+7) 831 425 94 23, www.en.hoteloka.ru. QRoom prices start at 4,800Rbl. PW hhhh Gorky Hostel Bol. Pokrovskaya ul. 5/6, tel. (+7) 831 439 09 00, www.gorkiy-hostel.ru. Q Room prices start at 490Rbl. PW Hostel Bugrov Ul. Sovetskaya 20, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 831 416 14 68, www.bugrovhostel.ru. Q Room prices start at 400Rbl. PW Hostel Naberezhny Nizhne-Volzhskaya nab. 7/2, tel. (+7) 831 230 13 15, www.bereg-hostel.ru. Q Room prices start at 350Rbl.

Eating and drinking
Bocconcino Ul. Alekseevskaya 10/16 (in Lobachevsky Plaza shopping centre), tel. (+7) 831 296 55 75, www. bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Russia, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy. The toppings are fresh and full of flavour. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW
41 01, www.tiffanibar.ru. You can’t say ‘Nizhny Novgorod’ without ‘Volga’ and this is one of the best places from which to enjoy Nizhny’s enviable views of Russia’s national river. The restaurant itself makes the most of this, with a plush crescent of seating offering a panorama of the Volga and countryside beyond. Fresh seafood, simply prepared, continues the aquatic theme, though be reassured, it’s not actually sourced from the Volga’s murky waters; in fact it’s fresh from their aquarium. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW

Tiffani Verkhnevolzhskaya nab. 8, tel. (+7) 831 419

Getting There
By Plane: There are several flights every day leaving
from all three of Moscow’s airports; they take just over an hour and prices start from around 3,000Rbl. From St. Petersburg there are typically two flights per day that take up to two hours and cost upwards of 3,500Rbl.

Hotels and Hostels
ibis.com. Modern and comfortable, as one would expect from the Ibis chain, and only a short walk to the centre. QRoom prices start at 2,900Rbl. PW hhh

By Train: From St. Petersburg the Volga train leaves

Ibis Nizhny Novgorod tel. (+7) 831 233 11 20, www.

daily from Petersburg’s Moskovsky Vokzal at 17:15, arriving in Nizhny Novgorod at 8:35 the following morning. It then leaves Nizhny at 18:25 and arrives back in St. Petersburg at 9:43 the next day.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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