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―Our mission Is to profitably manufacture And Supply clothing of require quality standards To our customers On time, every time"
COM PANY PROFILE: MATRIX CLOTHING PVT. LTD. Year of establishment: June 1980 Address: Matrix clothing Village - mohammadpur. Khandsa road, p.o. -Narsinghpur, Gurgaon-122001 haryana Annual turnover: 130 crore Rs. Ownership: Partnership firm Partners: Mr. Gautam Nair Mr. Vikram Nair Mr. Rajeev Dhawan Monthly production capacity: 2 lac polos. 3 lacs boxer shorts, 1 lac ladies garments No. Of employees: 2200 BRIEF PROFILE PAUSHAK, a partnership firm, was set up in June 1980, to manufacture "paushak" (this is a Persian word, meaning clothing) for the international market. The original partnership is still flourishing with each of the three partners having a hand-on involvement in operations. Paushak and its sister concern, matrix Clothing(P) LTD , are currently engaged in the manufacture of woven and knitwear ladies/men's apparel essentially for European and North American markets. Other companies in the group are engaged in the manufacture and export of polyesters zip fasteners. Total group sales turnover for current year 2005-2006 is INR 130 Crores (equivalent to US$ 29million) Of this apparel accounted for INR 90 crores or US$20 million.
The Top Management
Rajeev Dhawan ,Handles production operations for both the woven and knitwear divisions. Gautam Nair, Handles client services and commercial operations.
PRODUCT RANGE WOVEN They make various products for men as well as ladies but the area of specialization is in Men's/Boy's Boxer shorts along with ladies embellishment tops and blouses. KNITWEAR Their product range in knitwear comprises of: • men's knitted polos and cont front shirts in a variety of specialized fabrics. They work with single/double mercerized fabrics, moisture management and performance fabrics in 100% cotton as well as in blends. • ladies/girls knit tops with embroidery, bleaching and printing embellishments.
CLIENTS They work with several international brands which are known world over for the quality of their merchandise. The factory has been evaluated and approved for production by well known brands as: 1. The gap clothing co. U.S.A. 2. Philip van huesen co. U.S.A. 3. Kohl's 4. Speedo 5. Ashworth 6. J. Crew 7. Reebok 8. Timberland 9. Abercrombie and fitch 10. Hollister
11 .Next, U.K. 12. The Otto versand combined group, Europe 13. Speedo U.K. 14. Espirit 15. IZOD 16. Benetton group 17 .Armani exchange 18. Nautica 19. Tommy Hilfiger 20. Greg Norman collection 21. Calvin Klein 22. Tehama 23. Mervyns 24. Debenhams 25. Rockport 26. Old navy 27. Jos-a-bank 28. Woolworth 29. Belk
MANUFACTURING FACILITIES Manufacturing operations for both knits and woven are processed at Gurgaon factory, about 40kms from Delhi. The Gurgaon unit is a state of the art factory having over 100,000 sq. Ft of covered area. To ensure a hygienic, dust free atmosphere, the entire unit is air cooled by a forced draft ventilation cooling system. Complete operations from cutting to dispatch are done in house-over 400 Japanese sewing and special purpose machines have been installed. Special machines include 3-thread and 5-thread overlook, feed off the arm, double needle machines, edge cutting, needle feed machines, bar tacking and band knife cutters, more man 50% of the machines are, micro processors controlled with,
waste water from our washing department and toilets is treated in our own effluent treatment plant jointly owned with an associate company before being recycled for use for horticulture purposes. the company is an equal opportunity employer and does not discriminate in hiring people on the basis of sex. All manufacturing operations are centralized at Gurgaon. religion. Although hardly any effluent is generated during the production process. A total of 600 sewing machines are currently engaged in knitwear production.000 ladies tops. we regularly participate in several social and community development projects. development. EXTERNAL ENVIRONMENT : Matrix Clothing Concern for the environment is a cornerstone of our individual and business philosophy. The monthly capacity is 200. and motivation and general welfare. caste or creed. We meet and exceed statutory requirements on work place hygiene. we have 7 circular knitting machines and 12 flat knit collar machines installed in house. This enables the bulk of fabric/collar knitting/development and all of our embroideries to be done in house. We also have three computerized embroidery machines with a total of 46 embroidery stations.000 ladies tops per month with production being done on art assembly line system to enable quick turnarounds in sampling and production.000 boxer shorts and 60. Company‘s Monthly capacity is 300. fire/safety regulations and minimum wages/ perquisites to employees.automatic tacking and thread trimming functions. They have an HR department for development of human resources which focuses on their training. Towards this end. They have a unique employee welfare scheme where up to two children of every employee whohas been in service for over seven years are provided free education up to high school. THE ENVIRONMENT INTERNAL ENVIRONMENT : Matrix Clothing Compliance with human right standards is a key issue for today's apparel maker. They believe that every business has a social responsibility towards the society from where it draws its resources. A complete washing plant is also installed in house and is shared with the knitwear division.000 polo shirts per month and 100. In the past we have donated .
No. They also work actively with an NGO called the ‗Salaam Baalak‘ trust. Duke Duke Quantity 14 151 12 21 17 1 3 3 21 12 3 5 3 1 1 270 2. organizing relief material for cyclone ravaged area of Orissa in eastern India. Juki Eastman Aura . Juki Juki Pegasus. Brother Pegasus. Unit I (Sampling) Machine Details : . mobilizing funds for the Kargil relief fund for The Indian army and organizing a fund collection effort from within the company towards Helping the earthquake ravaged state of Gujarat where thousands of innocents lost their lives. Yamato Juki. which works towards the rehabilitation of street children in Delhi. Brother Juki.computers to a nearby village school for free computer education for under privileged students. Pegasus Pegasus Brother Brother. Unit 1 (Knitted also known as Timberland Floor) Machine Details : S. Yamato Brother. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Band Knife Needle Detection M/c Model Juki Juki. VARIOUS UNITS OF MATRIX CLOTHING 1.
Yamato Juki. Pegasus Pegasus Brother Brother. No. No. Brother Pegasus. Yamato Juki. Juki Juki. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10 11 12 13 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNCS Band Knife Model Juki. Brother Pegasus. Yamato Pegasus Higlade Duke Quantity 21 4 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 35 3. Knits 1st Floor Machine Details : S.Juki Brother. Juki Quantity 0 90 10 15 23 0 3 2 2 16 13 7 1 . Brother Juki. Brother Pegasus.S. Yamato Pegasus. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS SNCS Model Juki. Pegasus Brother. Yamato Brother. Juki Juki Pegasus.
Brother Pegasus. Yamato Pegasus. Juki Juki.Juki Brother. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS SNCS Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Band Knife Transfer Fusing Spotting M/c Pressing Table Model Juki. Pegasus Brother. Yamato Brother Eastman Kumsum Duke Ramsons Travel Excel Quantity 0 88 7 19 23 0 3 2 3 13 8 1 0 3 2 1 1 2 23 . Knits 2nd Floor : Machine Details : S. Brother Pegasus. No. Brother Juki.14 15 16 17 18 19 Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Band Knife Drill Maker Spotting M/c Pressing Table Eastman Kumsum Duke Kingsew Travel Excel 3 2 1 1 2 24 217 4. Yamato Juki.
Men‘s) Machine Details : S. Yamato Fx 4404 Quantity 15 2 2 1 1 1 4 1 27 6. Unit II (Sampling.187 5. Pegasus Brother Brother Juki Pegasus. Unit II (3rd Floor) Machine Details : S. No. 1 2 3 5 6 7 10 11 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Feed of the Arm Flat Lock Kansai Special Model Juki. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS Model Juki. Brother Pegasus. Brother Juki. Yamato Juki. Pegasus Brother Brother Juki Pegasus. No. Yamato Juki. Yamato Pegasus. Brother Pegasus. Yamato Brother. Juki Quantity 0 142 4 1 4 0 2 2 7 0 3 8 .
Juki Tacking Eastman Quantity 10 131 2 27 11 1 1 1 1 14 3 3 1 1 207 . Typical Eastman Fablion 450 Fx Series Juki. Brother Pegasus Pegasus Pegasus Brother Brother. L.13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 DNCS Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Kansai Special Feed of the Arm Spotting M/c Pressing Table Cone Binder End Cutter Juki. Juki Juki Pegasus.S.Brother Travel Excel Hasima Eastman 6 3 1 15 20 5 26 1 1 251 7. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS Snap Button M/c Needle Detection M/c Model Juki Juki. Brother Juki. No. Ground Floor Machine Details : S. Yamato Brother.T. Yamato Pegasus.
No. Yamato Brother. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L 6 T O/L Button Hole Button Stitch Bartack Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS SNCS Straight Knife Cutter Rib Cutter Band Knife Transfer Fusing Fusing M/c Model Juki Juki. 2nd Floor Machine Details : S. 1st Floor Machine Details : S.T.S. No. Yamato Pegasus Pegasus Brother Brother Juki Pegasus.T.S. Brother Juki Pegasus Quantity 11 10 1 3 . 1 2 3 4 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L Model Juki Juki. Brother Juki. L. Higlade Eastman Juki Duke Ramsons Hasima Quantity 12 109 5 33 1 1 1 1 1 8 11 0 3 5 1 1 3 2 206 9. Brother Pegasus.8. Yamato Pegasus. L. Juki Juki.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Single Needle Lockstitch SNLS (with Edge Cutter) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L F/L Trimmer DNLS DNLS Flat Lock Button Stitch UBT Bartack Buttonhole Band Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c DNCS Model Brother Brother Juki Juki Brother Pegasus Pegasus Pegasus Brother Juki Pegasus Juki Brother Juki. 33 Machine Details : S. Yamato Pegasus. Yamato Brother. Plot No. Fuken Juki Pegasus.5 6 7 8 12 Multi Needle Chain Stitch Feed of the Arm Flat Lock Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer DNLS Kansai. Juki 2 3 0 3 4 37 10. No. Brother Eastman Aura Juki Quantity 115 75 15 10 9 4 0 2 3 5 19 3 3 3 1 2 1 .
Brother Eastman Hashima Tony Quantity 228 10 15 37 4 12 10 2 3 2 4 1 1 337 . Juki. 1 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 17 18 Machine Type Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) SNLS (with Edge Cutter) 4 T O/L 5 T O/L F/L Trimmer DNLS Flat Lock Button Stitch UBT Bartack Buttonhole Straight Knife Cutting M/c Fusing M/c Snap Button M/c Model Brother. 412 Machine Details: S. No. Hangan. Maqi Brother Pegasus Pegasus.18 Straight Knife M/c Eastman. Brother Pegasus Brother Pegasus Brother Brother Juki. KM Mark 5 318 11. Plot No.
shipment sample submissions. An invoice is a tender which is sent to the buyer which contains the details about the buyer‘s name. ordering fabrics. ordering trims and accessories. packaging and dispatch. Merchandising is the focal point of activity in this company. A cost sheet is used for this purpose. It is the responsibility of a merchandiser to for all the milestone activities with regard to processing of an order viz. Cut. It also includes the fabric and embellishments cost. the buyers send the tech pack and then the merchandiser sends the pricing. price quotation. make. address. The main role of merchandiser in a production unit is to fulfil the needs of buyers by coordinating with the manufacturing departments. Costing depends on the following factors : Fabric cost Fabric Type Yarn Count GSM Tube size open Tube size closed . terms of payment. credit or open account etc. Negotiations then take place between the two and they decide upon a common point of agreement. Merchandising is vital from the buyer sourcing to the delivery of the products. trims and packaging. In case of old buyers. At matrix as such no invoice is prepared as the buyers are fixed but for new buyers this is done. production. bulk approvals. The merchandiser prepares invoice. fabric and garment testing.e. supervision and control. Thus a merchandiser is a fulcrum of the organization that involves coordinating and follow-up against tight schedules merchandising department is involved throughout the process at each and every step from getting the order. The costing is done in regards to CMTP i.Merchandising Merchandising is the central part of garment manufacturing company. to the shipment of the order. getting sample approvals. When an order is received the first and main step is the calculation of the cost of the garment. inspection. His work is to balance the quality price and delivery simultaneously with proper co-ordination. Sampling.
Fabric cost per kg: yarn cost + knitting cost + knitting wastage + wet processing charge + processing loss + tube size open or closed Collar Cutting cost Cutting charge Production cost Lockstitch Overlock Flatlock Folding/binding Shell stitch Thread Thread cutting Trims cost Main label Twill tape Care label Tag AP Ticket (or any other Tickets) Tape Side label Finishing/packaging cost Washing Pressing Price tag Packing material Carton Truck to Chennai .
which is in turn made by the marker efficiency form. one to the buying house and the third one is kept by the merchandiser as a counter sample. If these size set samples are approved then the in house production order is received and accordingly everything is ordered for.Embellishments cost Woven patch Printing Sequins Embroidery OVERHEADS All indirect costs Contribution It is the profit margin for the company. the merchandiser quotes this cost to the buyer. Two copies are made. One is sent to the buyer. Handling/settlement value It is the amount that is given to the buyer. If the samples are approved then the next step is the construction of the size samples. Negotiations take place between the two and accordingly a settlement is reached. This amount is usually deducted from the contribution value. It is usually 6-7%. one of them is sent to the sourcing department so that the required amount of fabric is procured for production and the other copy is sent to the CAD department to get the average. Usually 3 proto samples are made. Once the cost is determined. The merchandiser makes cad request form by this purchase order form. Based on this spec sheet the proto sample is made. If the proto samples are rejected. It is usually 6-7%. The buyer then sends a specification sheet to the merchandiser. This average helps in knowing how . Drawback The percentage which is given by the government because the company is exporting and getting foreign currency in India. which contains all required details about the order. The number of proto samples to be made is determined by the buyer. Size Set samples are made in all sizes with the required fabric in the original colour. they are to be made again.
Alongside MRL. The head of the merchandising department signs it. It lists the color wise and size wise breakdown of particular style. trims as well as for the packaging material. MRL is material requirement list. It contains the construction details. Tech pack-it contains all the technical details about the garment to be manufactured. quantity. the amount of fabric required. the consumption. MRL=BOM x OC The merchandiser then prepares a summary sheet. Once an order is given it is punched into the ERP software. the trims and accessories that are required etc. the type of fabric to be used. stores. The software that is used by the merchandisers is called the ‗World Fashion Exchange‘.033. production. BOM is the bill of material for fabric. shipping and documentation department. Side by side the sampling has started and the samples are to be approved.TMB.0173 11 stand for the year K stands for knits TMB stands for the buyer name 033 the order number of the year for the particular buyer 0173 the order number of the year for the whole company When the order is punched the cad requisition form is made. This indent is the permission by the merchandiser to buy the trims as well as the fabric. The approved fabric and the trims swatch are received. and finishing. An indent is formed for the fabric as well as the trims.much fabric would be required for the particular number of pieces. The copy of this summary sheet is circulated to all department heads that are associated with the processing of the order namely fabric department. MRL lets one know the amount of total fabric that is required as well as the trims. The order confirmation tells about the price where as BOM tells about the required quantity. Through the cad request form MRL is generated. . BOM is made. The order confirmation number has the following parts: 11. The order is punched with the order confirmation number along with the details of the buyer. style etc. K. accounts. delivery date and price. This summary sheet consists of a one-page summary of the details of the order. The main documents that are used by the merchandising departments are: 1.
which is in turn filled up by the buyer. It is made for fabric. size labels and buttons etc. Payment terms Payment in advance-the payment for the delivery is done in the advance Open account. supplier. The difference between the planned and actual dates should be less and it is usually made for a total of 90 days from the order receive date till the shipment date. The packing trims consist of poly bag. purchase officer etc. 4. sent and approved. It contains the type of fabric. . sewing and packing trims. Time and action plan. sticker. PURCHASING TERMS FOB-free on board. wash care labels. In this the costing is done till the delivery till the port of one‘s own country. the time it takes to get the purchase order. and the different types of fabric that are used in the garment. color. This is usually done with orders that are running all around the year. hang tag and price ticket etc. collars. The fabric contains cuffs. rate.as the name suggests it contains the time period to be allotted for a particular action.2. sewing trims and packing trims.in this case the delivery is to be made till the buyer‘s port DDU-delivery duty and paid . from cutting to packaging and also the time for shipping and documentation. the total time required in the production department i. MRL. C&F-cost and freight C&I-cost and insurance LDP-land duty port . they have an open account. size (in case of collars and cuffs). It is again made for fabric. BOM-it is the bill of material.e. quantity.as the buyers and the company have been working for a long time now. 3. the time taken for getting the bulk fabric.it is the simplest costing procedure.in this case the delivery is to be made till the buyer‘s warehouse or the buyer‘s destination. MRL lets one know the amount of total fabric that is required as well as the trims. This open account enables the company to take out capital from the account. tissue paper.it is the material requirement list. The sewing trims consist of main labels. accessories and trims. By action it means the time the samples need to be made.
he sends the loc to his bank. embroidery. The bank then forwards the PO to the buyer‘s bank and the dealings are made accordingly. And when the buyer signs these agreements then only will he get those documents. The company receives the p0 and issues a copy of it to his bank. This bank then prepares an agreement on the basis of some clauses such as the time for payment etc. As the buyer sends the purchase order (PO) to the company. It will get the entitlement only if it sells. which sends it to the buyer‘s bank. The exporter sends the shipment to the buying house. This bank then sends the documents to the buyer‘s bank. this buying house then sends the goods to the foreign buyer. printing. The entitlement of the goods will not be transferred to the foreign buyer. The buyer can get the shipment only on the basis of these documents. Sometimes they provide a style sample also Sampling Stage : Make the prototype sample Coordinate with research and development for product study . It is usually given after 30 days of shipment. If the goods are not sold then they can be returned to the buying house.Letter of credit (loc)-letter of credit is the proof by the buyer that the payment will be made to the company on the shipment. Order stage The merchandiser gets detailed information from buyer about a product like: Style Details: Tech pack Fabric type Quality and fiber content Trim requirements and quality of trims used color details Additional processing required like washing. The company can now take up to 80-90% of the capital by their bank. Documents on payment (DOP) and documents on acceptance (DOA)DOA-the company sends the documents to its bank. DOP-the documents are sent to the company‘s bank. The buyer‘s bank gives these documents to the buyer only if the bank receives the payment.
r&d and I. Processing stage Receive the commands for the end sample and get it corrected Get the approval for the samples and trims Prepare the time action calendar Prepare the fabric and trim indents Get the list of tests required Coordination with the logistics. he acts as the mediator between the buyer and the company. Correspondence files are maintained for each buyer in which the details of all the . Conduct the tests in buyers authorized laboratory and get it approved. Find the fabric consumptions and initial costing Send the sample with price quotations Confirmation Stage: receive the purchase order receive the amendments in the style confirm the price confirm the delivery schedule and get the required lead time.E. Production stage: call for the production meeting every Saturday prepare the production file and forward the same to the unit look upon the finance in each department Shipment stage: Coordinate with logistics department and buyer for shipping documents coordinate with bank for receiving the money The major focus of the merchandiser is on his communication skills. For detailed reports Coordinate with PPC for production planning Send the order status to the buying office at every stage Receive the ordered fabric and trims. The mode of communication practiced in matrix is via emails and faxes. While taking up the order it is his job to ensure that no mistakes take place and there should be no misunderstanding between him and the buyer.
Example of a 90 day Template of T&A Calendar Track Target Date : 08 July 2011-07-02 Task Duration (in Days) After Task Target Date OC PUNCHING LAB DIP APPROVAL FINAL MRL PROCESSING TRIMS INHOUSE DEADLINE 1 7 8 35 OC PUNCHING FINAL MRL PROCESSING 10 APR 2011 16 APR 2011 18 APR 2011 23 MAY 2011 FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL FABRIC FIRST LOT APPROVAL PP/ SEALER APPROVAL 17 21 LAB DIP APPROVAL 26 APRIL 2011 7 MAY 2011 15 FABRIC FIRST LOT APPROVAL. It is the responsibility of the merchandiser to ensure that the data which is supplied to the various departments of the company is free from any errors. FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL 22 MAY 2011 FABRIC TEST RESULTS 1 FABRIC FIRST LOT APPROVAL 8 MAY 2011 FABRIC INHOUSE 21 FABRIC FIRST LOT APPROVAL 28 MAY 2011 FILE HANDOVER DATE PCD FINAL INSPECTION 55 62 28 PCD 3 JUNE 2011 10 JUNE 2011 8 JULY 2011 . If any mistake is done in this aspect it may lead to held up of production and ultimately the delay or in worse cases the cancellation of shipments.incoming and outgoing correspondences are kept.
End) to the Buyer Send the Top of Production Sample to the Buyer Accumulate the Pack Pull Samples Co-ordinate with the Production Department and send the order on time .Jist of Merchandising Activity: Receive the Tech Pack from the Buyer Prepare the Proto Sample Get the Approval of the Proto Sample Prepare the Fit Samples/Get them approved Send the Sales Man Sample to the Buyer Prepare the Pre Production Sample Prepare the Pre Production Sample Get the Pre Production Sample Approved Send the Fabric Sample (Beginning. Middle.
PRICE (INR) TOTAL FABRIC PRICE STITCHING / PACKING TRIM PRICE FRT + HANDLING % CON S. COST LOS S% TO PANEL TAL LENGTH PANEL WIDTH GSM CON S.Sample Cost Sheet : Knits/Timberland Buyer / Label Season Style # Style Description Yarn Count / Type Yarn Conten t Fabric Type / Finish FABRIC PRICE C T G Date : ITEM YA RN KNIT TING LOS S% PRC. PRICE (INR) ITEM ITEM DESCRIPTION FOB LDP .
REJECTION % PRICE (INR) OPERATION EFF% TOTAL EMBELLISHMENT COST COSTING SUMMARY PRICE (INR) MISC. COST/P c. CHARGES GARMENT SAM SAM COST TOTAL INPUT COST TOTAL COST PRICE CONTRIBUTION DRAWBACK SELLING PRICE NET CONTIBUTION SPECIAL EXCHANGE RATE REMARKS APPROVED AS ON : AUTHORIZED BY : .TOTAL TRIM PRICE VALUE ADDITION COST (EMBROIDERY/PRINTING/OVERDYING) COST /KG CO NS.
One store is specifically dedicated for storing the knitted fabrics. 7. 2. a maximum of 40 defects per 100 sq yd 5. while the other store holds the woven fabric. The Store is responsible for adequately holding the material and issuing the materials in the right quantity. Activities in the Store: 1. 3. There are 2 fabric stores.O. to the right department/floor.e. 6. middle and end are checked and recorded. Woven Fabric 4 point system for fabric checking: Up to 3 inches 1 point 3-6 inches 2 points 6-9 inches 3 points Over 9 inches 4 points Holes and openings 0-1 inches 2 points Over 1 inches 4 points Total defects points per 100 sq. Receive the fabric Tally the fabric against the ordered and mentioned quantity Open the bale and tally the packing list (if woven fabric) Then the quality check is done as per the 4 point system i. in the right time. Woven Fabric Store 2 – 200 Tons knits + 10000 mt. Once the quantity is issued a challan is issued to keep a record of the fabric issued.Store There are 2 stores at Matrix Clothing. and normally those fabric rolls . The widths of the fabric at beginning. Yard are calculated. The woven fabric is checked entirely while the knit fabric is checked only 20%. and the amount to be issued. 4. When the store receives the order from any department the store checks the P. The record of defects in the fabric is also kept. This helps in communicating to the floor and warning them about the defects so that counter measures can be taken. knitted fabric and the Trims as well. the capacity of which are : Store 1 – 50 Tons knits + 2 Lakh mt.
the buyer's name Width received GSM required GSM received No. Most prominent fabric faults to be looked upon are: Mending hole Hole Knitting fault Barre Color tinting Stain Kitty Crease As the rolls are being inspected. the inspector has to fill in a form for his reference as well. hence two pieces are obtained within the same roll. For every roll no the following Details have to be determined as well as calculated: 1. the roll no is noted down. If the fabric has a defect which is stretched over a particular length and width. Weight of the fabric roll . However different buyers have their different acceptance criteria. Of pieces: these are the number of fabric pieces in the whole roll. 2. Of rolls As the rolls are being inspected. Yard are considered "seconds". It contains the following details: Fabric: the type of fabric which is being inspected Supplier: the supplier of the fabric Color: the color of the fabric Width required Lot no Style no Buyer. This form is called the matrix fabric inspection report.containing more than 40 points per 100 sq. No. then the fabric is cut from that portion.
Buyer 3. 8. Quantity 13. Points calculation: this is to see how many defects lie under the category of 1 point. Of defects This sticker is put on the fabric roll that is packed.3. This is to see if there is any width variation within the roll as it would give problems in cutting then. 5.under decision 75% and above D grade. One of the stickers has the following details. 5. Roll no. Lot no. Total points 7.C or D grade. Required size 10. Yarn lot: contains the no. Actual size act 11. After the roll is inspected. It is to classify the defects on the basis of yarn defects. Date 7.rejected Comments: the comments are made regarding the defects. 3 point or 4 point and there respective total. Purchase order no. The other sticker that is put on the roll is the colored sticker that tells about the grade of the fabric. B. This tells weather to grade the fabric as A. Party 6. . knitting defects or processing defects. Combo 4. it is packed again in plastic sheets and two types of stickers are put on them.GSM 12. 2 point. 0-25% A grade-accepted 25-50% B grade . Width: the width is found out in the starting. 6.under decision 50-75% C grade. 9. Style no 2. middle and at the end. 1. GSM calculated 4.
Gauge-18).non conforming or under decision-B & C grade 3. 4. Knitting Section Matrix Clothing (P) Ltd. 1. Mini Jacquard machine (Diameter-30. Light green-passed from inspection-A grade 2. 1 Rib Maker machine (Diameter-30. There are 8 circular knitting machines. The bill against the P.D grade Trims Store : The Trims Store holds the following : Twill Tape Main Label Size Label Sewing Thread Embroidery Thread Wash care Label Asia Pacific Sticker Price Ticket Poly bag Sticker Poly bag Hang Tag Carton When the Trims are received by the Store firstly the quantities are checked. Gauge-28). contains the quantity.O. Gauge-28). Red . 2 Single Jersey (4 Track) machines (Diameter-30. 2 Electronic Jacquard machines (Diameter-31. Yellow.rejected from inspection . 3. For checking the quality of the Trims received random boxes are opened and checked. but they also produce fabric for shortages and urgent fabric requirements. Has its own knitting section which provides 100% Rib and satisfies 10-15% requirement of fabric.The color code is: 1. Gauge-24). 2. Chiefly Fabric for Sampling is produced in the knitting section. .
One coning machine. the planning can also be made on historical data as in certain lines would be good at handling specific styles hence when the same style returns it can allotted to the same line. The capacity for each line is determined according to the SAM. Moreover. The planning department also makes Daily Production Reports and Line Wise Reports which help them to keep a track of the production and make planning if anything goes wrong. 3. the style number. Full cooperation with the merchandising department is necessary . This helps in putting the target for the particular line so as to meet the shipment date. There are 3 fabric Inspection machines. Per day capacity of this unit is 1 Ton (produced in 24 hours). Particular buying house wants that particular line to make their product. This is the reason why the knitted fabric has to be sent outside for finishing. If it is repeat order for the line 2. date. This is because of normal and abnormal absenteeism as well as the current efficiency of normal working of the operators. The knitting unit can then supply the fabric to the sewing floors in a very short lead time. PRODUCTION PLANNING A line plan is made by the planning department. The knitting unit does not have a fabric finishing facility. This line plan is reviewed every day and the changes are incorporated every week. the target to be set. On an average the kitting unit provides 20-22 Tons fabric to the sewing floors.The section also has 12 flat bed knitting machines (Bed-80‖. the output to be delivered as well as the target output of the whole day for the entire floor. This line plan is made for each floor separately as well as for each line. These changes may be made because of inefficiency of the line. The management is planning to have an in-house finishing facility very soon. While setting the line plan the efficiency of each line is taken around 50-55%. Gauge-14). It consists of the line number. These are: 1. The line to be selected for the particular style is decided on various issues. Particular buying house wants that particular floor to make their product. style gets delayed due to various reasons such as the fabrics and trims were not available on time etc.
.P.CAD Section The Process of CAD department : Development of pattern as per Style/Order Fit/P. The CAD dept. must take special care of marker efficiency in order to utilise the fabric in the best possible way. Approval CAD Average Fabric Ordered Accordingly Shrinkage test Development of pattern as per Allowance Final Marker/Patter Ready Pattern Send to Production Floor The CAD department has the responsibility to provide the Sampling department and the Sewing floors with the correctly developed patterns.
Spreading and Cutting At Unit I : No. Of Straight Knife Cutting Machines – 5 No. (only knits) Per Day Cutting Capacity : Solid Pieces : 5000-6000 Striped Pieces : 2000-2500 Per Day Fabric Consumption : Solid : 1800-2000 Kg. RFD. Engineered Striped. Auto Striped. Order the required fabric from the store Check the CAD average of the P.O. solid pique.O. Of Tables . Striped : 500 Kg. Of Operators – 26 Types of fabrics handled – fleece. Receive the Fabric Cut the front and back mock for shrinkage test Give the shrinkage percentage along the CAD Requisition Allot the fabric to the cutting tables The Fabric is spread and cut .4 No. Get the Order Quantity from the P.
.Fleece Garment – Timberland Sweatshirt Total Fabric Quantity = 478 Kg. 7. 6.94468 Colour .Bundling of Garment parts Ticketing and numbering on cut parts Feed the bundles to the lines Generate the Internal Issue Slip Standard Operating Procedure Before Cutting Fabric : 1. Generally Cut able Width = Actual Width – 2‖ or 3‖. 3. 4. 5. Measure the widths of three different fabric lots. Spreading and Cutting Activity : Fabric # 1 Style No.Rust Fabric . Finally the width of the fabric will be received and confirmed. Hence according to the garment ratio and lay lot planning the CAD department gives the final length of the layers. Get the width wise and length wise shrinkage of the fabric. Segregate the fabric lots according to the width. 2. . Cut the mocks from these lots and send them for washing.
is cut in 2 days.O. / 438 pieces Table utilized for this P. 25th May – 93 kg. of 478 Kg. Of Operators Involved = 2 Length of Lay = 146.4 Average Time . = 1 Operators = 5 Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2 Type of Fabric Fleece Readings (in seconds) 35 37 36 38 35 33 36 35 51 38 37. / 243 pieces 27th May – 385 kg.Size Ratio – S : M : L : XL : XXL 48 : 150 : 197 : 177 : 109 No. Of Plies Spread = 45 Time Taken in Spreading (45 plies) = 51 minutes Time Taken in Cutting (45 plies) = 45 minutes No.O.5 inch Width of Lay = 70 inch Lay Height = 4 inch Total P.
The operators Santosh and RajKumar were quick in handling the fabric defects.73 Total No. A lot of time is wasted on fetching things like scissors. The layer height went 1‖ above the mandatory lay height i. tape. 2.Allowance Spreading SAM/ply Observations : 1. Size Ratio – S : M : L : XL : XXL 43 : 86 : 64 : 32 : 109 No.Pique Garment .e. 3‖. After the layer is set there was no marker. The entire layer was cut in 45 minutes. The scissors must be sharpened so that the spreading time can be reduced. the marker must be brought in as the spreading starts. Suggestions : 1.T-shirt Total Fabric Quantity = 91 Kg. Of Plies Spread = 32 . These things must be sorted and put at specific places. 35. 2. 4. This can restrict the proper movement of the knife hence the number of plies for fleece should be max. Of plies were 45. The spreading time was 51 minutes.White Fabric . paper. . 4. Fabric # 2 Style No. 3.67499 Colour . 3. 15% 0.
5 inch Total P. is cut in 1 day.1 15% 1. / 268 pieces Table utilized for this P.O. The operators were a bit slow in spreading and required the help in placing the marker properly.O. = 1 Operators = 5 Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2 Type of Fabric RFD Pique Readings (in seconds) 63 66 58 68 66 75 60 55 53 57 62. 1 June – 93 kg. Of Operators Involved = 2 Length of Lay = 236 cm Width of Lay =208 cm Lay Height = 2.Time Taken in Spreading (32 plies) = 35 minutes Time Taken in Cutting (32 plies) = 57 minutes No. of 91 Kg. .19 Average Time Allowance Spreading SAM/ply Observations : 1.
O. / 613 pieces Table utilized for this P. is cut in 1 day. of 466 Kg.Suggestions : 1. = 1 Operators = 8 Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2 Type of Fabric Autostriper Jersey Activity Block Cutting Readings (in seconds) 38 37 36 .5 inch Total P. No.O. Fabric # 3 Style No. 2nd June – 466 kg. Of Operators Involved = 3 Length of Lay = 34 inch Width of Lay =14 inch Lay Height = 2. Of Plies Spread = 52 Time Taken in Spreading (52 plies) = 126 minutes Time Taken in Cutting (52 plies) = 94 minutes No. .91443 Colour . The operators must be educated about dropping the waste bits in the dust bins and keeping the walking area clean.Dark Navy Garment – Rugby T-shirt Total Fabric Quantity = 466 Kg.
8 15% 0.47 26 28 34 34 34 24 Average Time Allowance SAM (Block Cutting) 33.65 Type of Fabric Autostriper Jersey Activity Bundling Readings (in seconds) 58 57 40 32 32 37 45 29 37 33 40 15% 0.77 Average Time Allowance SAM (Bundling) Type of Fabric Autostriper Jersey Activity Layering Readings (in seconds) 26 20 22 13 15 18 .
Of Tables . Of Operators – 10 .4 No.38 Type of Fabric Autostriper Jersey Activity Sleeve Spreading Readings (in seconds) 40 35 34 50 45 50 55 30 25 27 39.9 15% 0.75 Average Time Allowance SAM (Sleeve Spreading) Spreading and Cutting At Unit II (3rd Floor) : No. Of Straight Knife Cutting Machines – 3 No.31 20 19 15 Average Time Allowance SAM (Layering) 19.1 15% 0.
Per Day Fabric Consumption : 4300-4500 mts. # Fabric : 1 Garment: Boxer Men‘s Buyer : Abercrombie & Fitch Style : IL6184 (Checked) Width : 58‖ Layer Length : 5 yards No.Types of fabrics handled – Woven (printed and checked) Per Day Cutting Capacity : 7000 pieces approx. Of Operators : 3 No. Of cutting m/c : 2 Spreading Time : 2 hours 53 minutes Cutting Time : 1 hour 05 minutes Type of Fabric Woven Check Readings (in seconds) 34 37 30 38 30 34 31 36 32 40 . Of Plies : 245 No.
Average Time Allowance Spreading SAM/ply
34.2 15% 0.66
Observations : 1. The checked fabric layer requires manual flow matching of patters which can take around 1-1.5 hours. 2. There is only 1 pattern Master available for flow matching.
# Fabric : 2
Garment: Boxer Men‘s Buyer : Hollister (A&F) Style : IL6184 (Printed) Width : 59.5‖ Layer Length : 7 yards No. Of Plies : 30 No. Of Operators : 3 No. Of cutting m/c : 2 Spreading Time : 20 minutes Cutting Time : 52 minutes
Type of Fabric Woven Printed Readings (in seconds) 32 32
34 32 31 30 32 34 34 37 Average Time Allowance Spreading SAM/ply 32.8 15% 0.63
Observations: 1. There were 3 operators involved in the spreading of the layer. 2. We had the opportunity of removing one operator and as a result the time taken to spread 1 ply shot up by 15 seconds. 3. This was because the operators had to travel along the table twice for spreading the ply and once for setting it.
Style - #91443 Auto Striped Rugby T-Shirt. Timberland. As the result of Time Study :
S No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Zig -Zag stitch on Collar Collar Run stitch Collar Top Stitch Collar Band Attach Deco Stitch on Band Cuff Join Name of the Operation SMV 0.76 0.81 0.68 0.86 0.83 0.65
7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 *
Cuff Run stitch Placket to Placket Attach Placket Attach to Body Placket Tape attach to tape Placket Edge Stitch Placket Close and Finish Placket Box Making Label Attach to patch label patch attach to moon Moon Attach to Back Shoulder Attach Shoulder Turn & Stitch Sleeve Attach Armhole Topstitch Bottom Hem Stay Stitch to Neck Collar Attach to body Collar Finish Side Seam Attach & Placket Serge Slit Tape Attach Slit Tape Finish Cuff Attach Turn & Stitch on Attached Cuff Wash Care Label Attach Final Tack Garment SAM
0.78 0.52 0.85 0.61 0.65 1.2 1.12 0.55 1 0.7 0.52 0.5 1.23 0.75 0.78 0.51 1.09 1.2 1.4 1.05 0.9 0.85 0.7 0.42 0.42 24.89
1. The critical operations in a Rugby T shirt are in the Placket and Collar. 2. A ‗Critical Operation‘ also known as the bottle neck operation is responsible for the increased throughput time of a piece. 3. To get proper output at end of line these critical operations must be taken care of. 4. There are 5 operations in a collar this is the reason why collar was being prepared in a different line.
Hollister. Though the operations in the placket are included in the main line these operations are done by one highly skilled operator so as to supply proper feeding.4 0.45 0. As the result of Time Study : S No. Moreover during the setup time for the style a few operators produce enough feeding (Front with placket attached & Moon. Collar Finish. 6. 10.42 0. It also has 5 operations in it.34 0. The WIP between operations is around 25 pieces. 8. 9. The maximum output of the line is 450 pieces per day.61 0. Label attached to Back). 12. The number of machines in a line is 30.14 .#1L6184 Menswear Printed Boxer Short.24 0.5 0.65 0.61 0.17 0.14 0. 7. 11.31 0.36 0.5. The other critical operation is the Placket. The operators are on a piece rate payment basis. Side Seam attach and Placket Serge are done by skilled operators who have years of experience in the same operation.3 0. Style . 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Name of the Operation Complete Fly Attach Join Back Rise Turn & Stitch Back Rise Join Inseam Turn & Stitch Inseam Side Attach Side Finish Bottom Hem Mark on Waistband & Elastic put in bundle Waistband Over lock Tack elastic to waistband Turn & Stitch on Waistband Bar tack Attach Label to Waistband Unfold & Elastic cutting SMV 2. Collar Attach to Body. The other assembly operations such as Sleeve Attach.
Embroidery Matrix Clothing has an in house embroidery department.53 8. Punching in the software and ultimately in the machine. Embroidery work flow Get the Design (design data) Ready and check the Embroidery machine. 5. The WIP between operations is 25 pieces.52 Learning : 1. 3. This is because the piece rate operators can prepare enough front panels for feeding in the line quickly. The maximum output of the line is 1500 pieces in 10 hours.16 17 18 * Elastic Ring Making Elastic Marking Label To Elastic Garment SAM 0. 8. 2. but the fly operation is done by piece rate operators. The operators on the 3rd floor are on salaried basis. The in line WIP is maintained at 200-250. The number of machines in a line is 24. The hourly target for the line is set. 6. 7. The critical operation in a Boxer short is the fly operation.2 0.15 0. if the target is not achieved the remaining pieces are added up to the target of the next hour. fabric/thread Original drawing Scanner Enlargement of original drawing Dg/ml floppy disc Embroidery Finishing Quality check Setting of fabric . 4.
Finishing There are typically 3 types of stitches — . Loading the pieces (includes the loading of foam) 7. The other factor for the embroidery machine is to use specially designed. The patterns to be embroidered are scanned on to the computer and using the software es65— Wilcom are converted into embroidery designs that will be put into the floppy which would be then eventually put into the machine that will recognize the commands and do the embroidery. Industrial embroidery machines are with automatic technology that can process and output complex designs that have been stored in a computer. Embroidery 8. Scanning the design 3. The buyer to the merchandiser supplies this design. Sorting the pieces on the basis of size 2. This is usually done for making new samples for the design department. The merchandiser supplies the design to the embroidery department. Punching the design into the software 4. computerized embroidery machine to automatically create a design from a pre made pattern that is input into the machine. Machine embroidery over here can be described through two factors. Putting the foam Setting of upper and under thread Embroidery is the decorative stitching on the fabric. The embroidery process includes the following steps: 1. Computerized embroidery machines are commonly used in product development operations and mass production of repeat patterns. It is either in the form of a brand name or label or it could be some form of motif or design. One is by the sewing machine to manually create a design on a piece of fabric or other similar item. Marking of the pieces 5. Framing of the pieces 6. Unloading of the pieces (includes the simultaneous removal of frames) 9.
The various foams used are: . Run stitch. Zsk (German make) 9 colors 20 heads Head to head distance -. This is done when patches are used. Satin stitch. Triple run stitch.this stitch is runs on the same outline three times to make it thick Motif run stitch.This stitch is long stitch that fills from one end to the other 3. The Placement of the motif is first made through stitches and then the patch of the motif is put. Zsk (German make) 11 colors 6 Head Used for sampling Foam or fusing is used while embroidering the pieces. They are: 1. These are of three types Simple run stitch. used for production 3.it‘s a single line.This stitch is also known as the fill stitch. 2. There are a total of three computerized machines in the embroidery department.1. The type of foam to be used depends upon the requirement of the buyer.zag stitch. This foam is usually to avoid the contraction and expansion of garment pieces or panels. Tajima (Japanese make) 6 colors 20 heads head to head distance-200mm flat design.This stitch is the initial stitch that outlines the main design to be embroidered. Tatami stitch.the motif will be run as a stitch. E stitch-in this type of the stitch there is space between the stitches. it fills up the base.this runs in a zig zag fashion. It is of two types : Zig. used for production 2.300 mm embossed design.
It is used in case of low costing and comes at a range of 20-30 GSM.1. Random fusing: this is usually used in case where the backing of embroidery has to be removed. Telephone. Water soluble fusing. clogging of stitches or poor finishing of embroidery. Madeira. around Rs. The threads which are used in the embroidery machine are usually cotton blend threads With polyester. In embroidery the standard needle is db x k5 # 11. 24/meter. Vardhman. Coats sylko-Rs. Tear able both side foam: this type of foam is used in the design which involve some text form on them. 4/meter 4.Rs. Oswal-Rs. Tear able one side foam (tpoi): this type of foam is used in pairs.l6/800m 4. 3/meter. The look of the design is firm and good and is available in the market at the cost of Rs. It is used while embroidering and is removed during the wash the cost is relatively high.) . 14/800m 3. 10/400m 5.Rs. 5. The various thread companies are: 1.65/1000m 2.Rs. 3. This fusing is used in case of women's garments. 2. 90 RDM foam: it is a cut able foam this is usually used in case of embossing effect. 5/meter.52/1000m The type of needle to be used depends largely on the type of machine and application. The cost is Rs. The type of thread and the count to be used should be appropriate so as to avoid any thread breakages. cotton threads or viscose threads. Flow Process Time Taken (approx. It comes as 45 gsm and the cost is around Rs. It is not tore off but cut from the design.
it is essential to send it for washing to remove any unnecessary stains and also to impart certain types of finishes that are desired by the buyer for his product washing adds to the aesthetic sense of the garment.23 minute (1.46+2.92 ) minute Framing (1.25) minute Machine Time (Placing. Uptime. Checking) Despatch to Location ** On an average 20 head embroidery machine produces 20. 1X1 inch embroidery designs in 10 minutes. WASHING Washing is an important factor in the overall production of the garment.21 minute Marking on Panel/Garment 0.31+1. Removal) Finishing (Thread Cutting. After the garment has been produced to all the required specifications.Ply/Garment Received 0.02+0. Work force: 15 Type of washes: 1) Enzyme Wash 2) Garment Wash 3) Softener Wash (silicon wash) .
Some other factors also contribute to their selection. 5. total costing of the fabric. The spots and stains axe removed by using . Enzyme wash: The Process flow of this type of wash is as follows: Desizing Rinse Enzyme Rinse Finishing agent For enzyme wash the temp of around 50-60 degree Celsius is maintained. Once the panels dry then the panels should be taken out from the tumble gently to avoid the stretch during handling. These fabrics are termed as cut panel laundry. 4. like . They are those fabrics which have abrupt shrinkage. After dipping process the panel should be hydrated to extract the water from it. color of fabric. It is required so that the fabrics can shrunk before cutting so that no further shrinking can take place. The thinner the fabric lesser the temperature is. The fabrics are cut according to their desired length of the marker and then sent for the washing. The Process is called CPL : Cut Panel Length Prerequisites for CPL : 1. Panels should be properly dried in tumbles at a temperature of 70 ⁰ C. Thus the shrinkage is adjusted.4) Machine Wash (normal detergent) 5) Bleach wash These washes given were depending upon mainly on the buyer's specification. Cut panel has to be dipped in normal water for 3-4 hours under normal room temperature. This is done for pre shrinking. 3. 2. Garment wash: In this the garments are washed normally.Fabric strength. type of effect needed. Not only garments are washed but also cut fabrics. Cut the panels based on the layer length and add the shrinkage based on the lab report for CPL wash. Garments are washed after they have been properly stitched.
Acetone is used for removing ink stains. The detergents used are generally specified by the buyer. Acetone and Vinyl are prepared and applied manually by small tooth brushes. The solution of soap. Machine wash: The garments are washed with detergents in washing machines.5 kg silicone is used for 300 polo t-shirts.10 litre water along with 1. The time taken for washing : White Fabric : 10 minutes Printed / Coloured Fabric : 5 minutes Enzyme Wash : 20 minutes . A 50 Kg. Different type of softeners are: Anionic softener Cationic softener Silicone softener In silicone washing a pool of water is made in which silicone is added. There is no temperature control for silicone wash. can is issued to the washing unit each day. Softener wash: This is done to give finishing to the garments and fabric. If the fabrics turn out to be less soft than they treat it again with softener. There are two types of chemical used for silicone wash. 400g. The water is generally luke warm water. Basically water is used for removing sand and soil stains.Acetone and Vinyl. The garments are treated with some finishing agents like silicone etc to give a soft and smooth feel to the garments. It is comparatively cheaper than number 180 which is thick as well as used for darker fabrics. detergent is used up in washing 100 garments. They are 196 Ultra Resin and 180 Wakar.196 ultra resin is thinner and is used for light fabrics. 5 to 10 pieces are first tested. The detergent must be of a non – ionic base. Vinyl is used for removing hard stains like oil spots etc. generally Ariel. Surf excel and Tide are used as detergents. the fabrics are dipped into the pool for 45 min. If the fabric is soft in feel then it requires less softener and for fabrics with harsh feel the application of softener is comparatively much more.
This removes water from the fabric. of pieces can be tiresome job for the washing operators. As the counting of total no. The bleaching amount also depends upon the type of fabric used. The machines that are used are: 1. The Time Taken for Tumble Drying : Woven : 25 minutes Knits : 1-1. The 3 hydro machines are: 2 Stefab machines .50 kg.25 kg capacity Tumble machine is also used in washing process. Capacity 4 cemented baths are also used for carrying out washing operations (CPL).25 kg capacity each). This is done to remove the soap from the garment pieces by the rapid action of water. 1 Stefab machine . Temperature : . If the fabric is light lesser quantity of bleach is used or vice-versa.50 kg capacity. 2 Fabcare machines-100 kg.Bleach wash: For white garments bleach is used to remove various types of stains. This machine is used to dry the fabrics that come out from the hydro. Thus a single garment piece is weighed and accordingly the no of pieces are put in to hydro machine. There are 3 hydro extractor machines (50 kg. The various tumble machines are 1 Fabcare machine-100 kg capacity 2 Stefab machine -25 kg capacity 1 Stefab machine-50 kg capacity 1 Stefab machine .5 hours. Stefab machine-25 kg capacity 2. After the washes the fabrics or garments are put in the hydro for about 10 minutes.120 kg.
Woven : 35-40 degree C Knits : 70-85 degree C A store wise break up is sent to the washing department which gives the color wise as well as Size wise breakup so that the washing department knows how many pieces are sent in the particular color. buyer and the shipment date. It also contains details about the style number. Thus the washing department is very essential in the overall production process of the garment no matter how much the garment is up to the desired specification but the most important factor is the overall look of the garment. . The shipment is given so that the department knows how to prioritize what style has to be washed first.
Finishing Timberland Rugby : Washing Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal Dusting Initial checking Buttoning Pressing Final Checking Tagging Measurement Re-Final Checking Folding Poly-bag/ Sealing Carton .
Activity Recorded Time 1 Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal 3 minute 30 seconds 2 Dusting 20 seconds 3 Initial checking 19 seconds 4 Buttoning 4 seconds 5 Pressing 1 minute 10 seconds 6 Final Checking 1 minute 45 seconds 7 Tagging 6 seconds 8 Measurement 45 seconds 9 Re-Final Checking 1 minute 10 seconds 10 Folding 12 seconds 11 Poly-bag/ Sealing 16 seconds * Total Time 9.Time Taken for Finishing 1 Rugby T-Shirt S.6 minutes . No.
Hollister Boxer Short : Washing Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal Initial Checking Pressing Final Checking Tag Attaching Folding Packing Carton .
No. Activity Recorded Time 1 Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal 1 minute 30 seconds 3 Initial checking 40 seconds 5 Pressing 25 seconds 6 Final Checking 1 minute 15 seconds 7 Tagging 7 seconds 10 Folding 29 seconds 11 Packing 16 seconds * Total Time 4.Time Take for Finishing 1 Boxer Short S.7 minutes .
TESTING Testing is a critical factor in determining if the fabric and the garment will be performing up to the desired performance in different situations. Testing is a very important aspect of quality management. It is up to the buyer to give certain specifications for various properties of the product under consideration and also the fabric performance specifications for various properties. These tests are carried out to determine if the fabric which they have outsourced is of the appropriate quality. the garments which they have been manufacturing are undergoing certain changes which are all because of the default in the specifications by the buyers. the certain tests carried out are: . Though the agencies where testing has to be carried out is suggested by the buyer himself but there are certain tests which are in house.
Ph value. It occurs at three levels: fabric. The different lights are: • daylight •A+ • tube light • cool white • horizon • ultraviolet . yarn and fibre. Also a color matching box is present to check its appearance under different kinds of lights. may affect the degree of color transfer from a fabric. 3. Multi fiber is used which has the fallowing composition: Nylon Polyester Acrylic wool Cotton This fabric is used alongside the fabric to be tested to see the crocking result on different fabrics. Color fastness to washing. the test is usually carried out before or after such a treatment. 4.garment shrinkage is mainly due to laundering. Dimensional stability . The washing. dry cleaning. steaming or pressing. 2. The total observed shrinkage is the resultant shrinkage at these three levels. The colorfastness to washing is tested in launder meter under appropriate conditions of temperature. Crocking.this test is carried out to determine the dye or soap content in a garment piece.shrinkage tests.1. Different types of reagents are used to carry out this type of tests. ironing and finishing.crocking is the test so designed to determine the degree of color that may transfer from the surface of colored textiles to other surfaces by rubbing.color fastness is the property of a dye or print that enables it to retain its depth and shade throughout the wear life of a product. dry cleaning. This test is carried out both in dry and wet conditions with the help of a crock meter. bleaching and abrasive action.
5. 9. Perspiration Dry & Wet Crocking/Rubbing ISO 105-E04.It is also tested against the grey scale as well the chromatic transference scale to check the performance level. buttons and wash care labels are also tested so that they perform up to the desired level of performance. Testing for trims: trims like zippers. 1A-5A IS 687.this test is carried out to see the strength of the point where the button is attached. Laundry ISO 105.764.3361. 4. 765 IS 3417 2. Count.3361. Skewing . Performance test o/ garments up to the required level desired there are various tests carried out for rating the performance of the properties which are essentially required in The garment some of these tests are carried out to see the overall strength of the Garment. 6. Some of the Test Standards used World wide : Fabric and Garment Tests Color Fastness Tests No.is a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric it is also known as bias. Test Parameters Washing Testing Standards ISO 105 C10 BS EN ISO 105-C10 IS 687.764.C06 /C08 BS EN ISO 105-C06 /C08 AATCC 61 No. Button snap test. IS 971 ISO 105-X12. 1.this test is carried out to determine the count of the yarn. 765 IS 13025 3. 7. This is carried out with the help of Baisley balance. 8. .
Hot pressing ISO 105-X11 AATCC 133 . Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01 AATCC 132 IS 4802 10. IS 766 5. Light a) Xenon Arc (Water Cooled) ISO 105 B 02 BE EN ISO 105 B02 i) BWS 4 or below ii) BWS 5 iii) BWS 6 or above b) AATCC 16 i) 20 Fading Units or below ii) Each Additional 10 fading Units b) MBTL Method i) Fading up to Grade 4 ii) Fading Up to Grade 5 6.AATCC 8 & AATCC 165. Chlorinated Water ISO 105 E03 BS EN ISO 105 E03 AATCC 162 9. water ISO 105-E01 BS EN ISO E01 AATCC 107 IS 767 7. Sea Water ISO 105 E02 AATCC 106 IS 690 8.
19. 16. Acid Spotting ISO 105 E 05 AATCC 6 IS 968 13. Alkali Spotting ISO 105 E 06 AATCC 6 IS 977 14. Non Chlorine Bleach Solvent SpottingPerchloroethylene Scrubbing Sublimation Mercerization AATCC 172 Each Additional Wash AATCC 157 IS 11908 IS 975 105-X04 IS 979 . 17. Bleaching a) Hypochlorite ISO 105 N01 BS EN ISO 105 NO1 AATCC 188 IS 762 b) Peroxide ISO 105 N02 BS EN 105 N02 AATCC 101 c) Oxidative Bleach ISO 105 C09 BS EN ISO 105 C09 AATCC 190 15. 18. Water Spotting ISO 105 E07 AATCC 104 IS 976 12.IS 689 11.
Color fastness to artificial weathering ISO 105-B04 AATCC 111.169 IS 6152 .Each Additional Cycle 20. perspiration and Light a) ISO 105-B07 i) BW 4 ii) BW 5 AATCC 125 i) 20 Fading Unites or Below ii ) Each Additional 10 Fading Units 21.
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