Oiling question

No. 22 Movement

On the older Timex manual wind movements (e.g. no. 22), how essential is it to g et oil onto the balance pivots after cleaning? If it is essential, then how do you oil the pivot on the pivot nearest the hair spring? I cannot seem to reach that one, even with my smallest oiler. The oil droplet inevitably touches the inside of the plate or the hair spring be fore reaching the pivot, causing the oil to immediately cling to the inside of the plate or the hair spri ng (in which case its back to the cleaning solution to start over). Also, with respect to the main spring, should any oil be appied directly to the main spring through those two access holes on the plate? Any guidance would be extremely appreciated. Thanks.

Balance pivots critical... You need to oil the balance wheel pivots! They undergo a lot of motion and, if unoiled, the movement will either run poorly or not run at all if the balance bearings seize up due to wear. I'm not an expert on the Timex #22 movement, but you may notice a tiny brass set screw that holds one of the balance wheel pivots in place. If you loosen and remove this screw, you will be able to expose the pivots for o iling. Trying to use an oiler to lube the hairspring side pivot without moving the bala nce wheel is probably impossible due to the lack of clearance. The only other alternative to this, which would not require moving the balance w heel, would be to use some sort of "dip" bath that leaves a fine coating of lubricant on the entire movement. This coating reaches all of the pivots, but is too thin to mess up the hairsprin g. I recommend always oiling the mainspring after cleaning the movement. For some reason, mainsprings are very susceptible to rusting up after a cleaning has stripped all of the oil off of them. A rusted mainspring is much more likely to break under tension than one that is oiled.

Make your own dip and save... It's easy to make your own homemade lubricant dip bath. Just put ONE drop of any organic watch oil in about 50 milliliters of a solvent like benzine or naptha and shake to mix. After you have cleaned your movement and it is dry, dip it in this lubricating b ath, remove the movement and let it dry. All surfaces in the movement will be lightly coated with oil and that should be sufficient. Now save the unused lubricant dip bath by storing it in a tightly sealed bottle until you need to lube another cleaned movement. I favor the use of silicone lubricants on watch movements, but, unfortunately, o

ne has to use acetone to dissolve these hi-tech synthetic oils. If you make an acetone dip bath containing a silicone oil, then you must make sure that whatever movement you dip in it has no polystyrene plastic parts in it. Acetone will dissolve polystyrene on contact. Be sure that only metal parts are i mmersed in it. silicone oil made by Radio Shack I now use a silicone oil made by Radio Shack to lub all parts of a watch movemen t. It comes in a pen-shaped applicator and is called , simply, "Lubricator". It is available at all of their stores and sells for $3 to $4. One tiny drop on the winding wheel teeth will lube them for life... -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------How to oil your Timex... Ray...when you read at this forum that members do not dissemble the Timex moveme nt while servicing it, they mean that they do not separate the two main plates between which are sandwi ched the gear train of the movement. They still have to remove the movement from the case by extracting the crown and stem and then remove the hands from their carrier posts and finally the dial face fro m the movement. Once all of this is done, you can access all of the gear train's pivots from bot h sides of the movement (back side and dial side) with whatever tool you are using to SPARINGLY apply watch oil to them. It's important to remember that you do not need a lot of oil on the pivots... a tiny droplet is sufficient for them. As I suggested in an earlier post, you should also apply a little oil to the tee th of all of the larger gear wheels (they will then automatically distribute it around and carry some of it to the p inion gear teeth on other wheel staffs as the gears turn). That's basically it. Oh, I am assuming in the above that you have already cleane d the movement in a suitable solution to remove any gummy old oil and metal chips that may have accumulated in the spaces betwween the gear teeth (known in horology as the "dedendum"). It's a fairly straight forward procedure although it will vary somewhat from one type of movement to another. Try not to rush through the process. Take your time and view the movement with a 10X jeweler's loupe to make sure tha t you get some soil on ALL of the pivots. If you forget to oil a pivot, then that unlubricated pivot will experience excessive wear as the watch runs an d could interfer with the accuracy of its time keeping. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From memory, but based on the 1965 Timex service manual: Once you've removed the dial and cleaned the movement, very small drops of oil on the top and bottom of each pivot, a tiny drop on 3 of the escape wheel teeth. The balance wheel has a screw-in cap , remove that and carefully oil the cup in the cap and the cup in the opposite pla te. Carefully put the cup back, and tighten very gently until the side play is just barely removed from the bala nce--Leave a bit of play rather than tighten too tight. I think they have a very small drop of oil on either the fork where it interface s with the balance wheel, or the balance at that spot. Over-oiling is more likely than under-oiling. Don't get oil on the hairspring. I'll check later when I've got access to my service manual, but I'm fairly sure Timex doesn't recommend oil on the gears in the train, eithe r. I'm certain jeweled watches consider this a no-no--Instead they use brass wheels on steel pinions, and the dissimilar metals makes lubrication unnecessary under the loads a watch experiences. Oil on these gears will add drag and collect grit that will increase wear and in crease the chance of a particle stopping the watch. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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