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There are two ways of introducing appropriately sized darts. .
so as to create a raised "cup" shape for the breast. the width of both the waist darts and the front bodice dart are doubled./ 3 = Width of Waist Dart 2 Bust .Waist 6 = Width of Waist Dart or For the purposes of the bra construction. The width of the basic waist darts are determined by the difference in measurement between the bust measurement and the waist measurement. Bust – Waist ----------------. the two shown and one in the middle that is lost in the overlapped region).Method #1 : Two waist darts are added before the "basic bra block" is drawn in. divided by two (because the basic block is only half the garment). and then divided by three (there are three waist darts. .
in addition to the bust measurement itself.5 cm or 1" at the waist level).Method #2 : A somewhat more accurate way of estimating the dart sizes is by using an "overbust" and an "underbust" measurement. minus the small dart width associated with the back dart (width about 2. The width of the dart along the top line of the bra form is determined by half the difference between the overbust and the bust. Bust – Overbust = Width of the dart along the top line 2 The width of the front dart along the bottom of the bra form is half the difference between the bust and the underbust measurement. Bust – Underbust = Width of the front dart along the bottom 2 .
the distances are reduced by 0. As for the upper edge. not the dart shown).5 cm below the bustline (point J at CF).5 cm to each measurement. add 0. * And marking the rightmost edge 2. * Marking each side of the bust dart a distance of 9. point E).5 cm below the bustline. and the "forward front seam" which is to the right of the side seam and tilted forward at the bottom.5 cm for plus sizes. * Marking the two sides of the front waist dart (points H and I) at a distance of 7. For small sizes. * And marking the rightmost edge 2. The lower edge of the basic bra block is constructed by * Marking the leftmost edge (point F) 2 cm below the bustline.3cm. reduce each of these measurements by 0.5 cm from the bustpoint (BP). The upper edge of the basic bra block is constructed by * Marking the left edge at Centre Back (CB) 1.5 cm above the bustline (at Centre Front CF.note that the lines shown follow the doubled dart size.3 cm for small sizes and increased by 0.5 cm above the bust line (point A). while for plus sizes. * Marking the central seam 2. . * The points F-G-H-I-J are then connected by straight lines.5 cm above the bust line (point B). * The points A-B-C-D-E are then connected by lines.Shown also are the side seam located at the central line (B-G).0 cm from the bust point (points C and D . * Marking the side seam (point G) 4.