Dutch Spiral Bracelet

This variation of Dutch spiral features one multiple-bead drop per round. You stitch the remainder of beads in each round using regular, single-bead tubular peyote stitch, which gives the tube a more solid structure. The spiral becomes better defined when you go back and reinforce one column after completing the tube. Notice that you can make a matching necklace by stitching a longer tube.

Techniques and Materials TECHNIQUES

In addition to the general techniques covered in Chapter 2 of Teach Yourself Visually Beadwork, this project uses techniques from the following chapters and sections. Chapter 3: Chapter 9:

Learn Dutch Spiral Stitch

Stitch a Peyote Toggle Clasp

SUPPLIES
The items below are in addition to those listed under Essential Tools and Supplies in Chapter 1 (see page 16). Size 10 beading needle Size 12 beading needle (to use as needed for weaving-in and for reinforcing the final column) Size D Nymo beading thread in white

BEADS
This project uses Japanese seed beads. Weights are rounded up to the nearest 0.5 gram and are approximate, based on an average-length bracelet. Two suggested color styles are given below. Feel free to substitute the colors of your choice.

Color Style A

1.5 grams size 11/0 opaque matte dark brown seed beads (A) 1.5 grams size 14/0 opaque luster light cream seed beads (B) 2.5 grams size 11/0 transparent rainbow pale green seed beads (C)

Color Style B
1.5 grams size 11/0 ceylon matte pink seed beads (A) 1.5 grams size 14/0 transparent peridot seed beads (B) 2.5 grams size 11/0 ceylon matte yellow seed beads (C)

Directions

1 Using a prepared length of thread with the needle threaded, pick up 2A,
2B, 2C, 2B, and 2C, and then pass through the 2A again to create the initial ring of beads for Dutch spiral. Leave a tail about 8 inches long for creating an end loop later. (The first 2B will be the drop.)

9
=A =B =C

2 With the thread exiting the second A, pick up 3B and 1C. (This increases
the length of the drop from two beads to three.)

3 Pass through the next C in the ring and pull the thread taut. 4 Pick up 1B, pass through the next B in the ring, and pull the thread taut.
(This begins the single-bead peyote stitch portion of the round.)

5 Pick up 1C, pass through the next C in the ring, and pull the thread taut. 6 Pick up 1A, pass through the next A in the ring, and pull the thread taut.
This completes the second round.

7 Begin the third round by picking up 4B and 1C, and passing through the
next C in the previous round.

12

8 Repeat Steps 46 to complete the third round. 9 Continue this process, increasing the number of B in the drop in each
round, until you have a round with a total of 7B in the drop, as shown in the diagram.

0 Continue stitching, creating rounds that contain drops of 7B, until the
tube is about inch longer than your desired length, including the clasp.

! Stitch five more rounds, decreasing the number of B in each successive

drop. The drop in the final round should contain two single B to match the first round.

@ Reinforce the tube by passing back through an entire spiral column of A

or C, passing through several beads at a time and keeping the thread very taut. (This makes the undulations in the tube more pronounced and slightly shortens the tube.)

# Weave-in to end the thread that you used for reinforcement, or use it to
stitch the toggle shank or loop in Step 14.

$ Stitch and attach a matching peyote toggle clasp (see page 180). Use the
toggle pattern shown here to stitch the flat-peyote swatch, and then zip the ends together. Use B to make the toggle shank and loop.