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FOREWORD, vi INTRODUCTION, 1
CHAPTER 1 CHAPTER 7
Beer and Brunch, 5
From the Sea, 233
Side Dishes, 257
Sauces and Spreads, 67
ROAD TRIPS, 305 BEER FESTIVALS, 314 BREWERIES, 316 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS, 331 INDEX, 332
Sandwiches and Burgers, 97
Soups, Stews, and Chilis, 133
Copyright and Credits
This is a sampling of pages from
The American Craft Beer Cookbook
Text © 2013 by John Holl. All rights reserved. Photography by © Lara Ferroni.
FRONT STREET BREWERY WILMINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA
Shrimp and Grits
A staple of Southern cuisine, shrimp and grits can be served any time of day. However, this particular variation makes for a bold breakfast, and it’s a great way to start off any day on the right foot. This recipe gets its depth and rich flavor from the cream and the bacon and its reserved grease. It is a relatively simple recipe thanks to instant grits, which absorb the other flavors and lay down a good base. A bright Kölsch with a nice hop bite and some dryness, such as Front Street Brewery’s Coastal Kölsch, is the perfect pairing.
4 slices bacon 1 cup instant grits 1/2 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 1/2 white onion, finely diced 2 teaspoons blackened seasoning, preferably Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Blackened Redfish Magic spice 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon granulated garlic 1/4 cup Chablis, or any dry white wine 11/2 cups heavy cream 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Chopped scallions, for garnish
Cook the bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat until brown and crisp, about 4 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel–lined plate to cool, reserving any bacon grease in the skillet. Roughly chop the bacon and set aside.
Transfer the shrimp mixture to a medium bowl, cover, and set aside.
A Few Beers to Try with This Recipe
• Alaskan Summer Ale • Flying Dog Tire Bite Golden Ale • Front Street Coastal Kölsch • Harpoon Summer Beer • New Holland Full Circle • Saint Arnold Fancy Lawnmower • Samuel Adams East-West Kölsch • Schlafly Kölsch
Prepare the grits in a small saucepan according to the package instructions. (For a richer version, use chicken broth and milk in place of water.) Remove the saucepan from the heat and cover to keep warm. Toss the shrimp, onion, spice mixture, black pepper, and garlic with the bacon grease in the skillet and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp are evenly coated and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the wine to the skillet, stirring and scraping up the flavorful bits from the bottom of the pan. Let the wine reduce for 1 minute. Add the cream and Parmesan; bring to a boil, and then simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce starts to thicken, 5 to 6 minutes. Put the shrimp back in the sauce and warm through.
Spoon the reserved grits into two serving bowls and pour the shrimp and sauce over the grits. Sprinkle the bacon on top and garnish with chopped scallions.
Makes 2 servings
8 Beer and Brunch
Established in 1995, Front Street Brewery has that com-
fortable neighborhood atmosphere that makes even first-time visitors feel like regulars. With its expansive menu and brewer Kevin Kozak’s expertly made beers, this brewpub is one to visit time and time again. If you’re feeling brave, ask your server about the ghost that lives on the upper level and occasionally roams among the brewing tanks.
Beer and Brunch 9
Why should champagne get all the fun at brunch? A typical mimosa recipe calls for the sparkling wine to be mixed with orange juice, but the right beer paired with citrus leads to a tasty, eye-opening experience. For the best results use a wheat beer.
Combine the juice, beer, and triple sec, if using, in a champagne flute and stir gently. Garnish with a strawberry and serve immediately.
Makes 1 cocktail
5 ounces orange juice or grapefruit juice 3 ounces beer (see suggestions at right) ½ ounce triple sec (optional) Fresh strawberries
Breckenridge Agave Wheat Clownshoes Clementine Dogfish Head Namaste (512) Wit Grand Teton Tail Waggin’ Double White Ale • Samuel Adams Imperial White • Sierra Nevada Kellerweis • Southampton Double White Ale
Suggested Beer-mosa Beers
• • • • •
Beer and Brunch 13
FULL SAIL BREWING COMPANY HOOD RIVER, OREGON
While fondue was most popular in the 1960s and ’70s, it is enjoying a resurgence as chefs and party hosts embrace the communal appeal of people standing around a bubbling pot of melted cheese. This twocheese fondue blend gets its kick from the mustard powder and cayenne, while the addition of a lager soothes some of the heat. Have skewers and dipping options like bite-size pieces of apples, a grilled baguette, or fresh vegetables on hand. Drink a premium American lager with this rich dish.
10 ounces Full Sail Session Premium Lager, or similar American pale lager 1/2 garlic clove, minced 12 ounces smoked Gouda, rind removed and shredded (about 3 cups) 8 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (2 cups) 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 11/2 teaspoons cornstarch 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard powder 1 tablespoon water 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Sliced apples, fresh vegetables, and crusty artisanal bread, for dipping
In a fondue or similar pot, combine the beer and garlic and bring to a simmer. Gradually add the Gouda and Monterey Jack cheese, stirring constantly to evenly distribute. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer, stirring until all the cheese is melted and the fondue is smooth. Stir in the Worcestershire and cayenne.
• Avery Joe’s Premium American Pilsner • Bell’s Lager of the Lakes • Full Sail Session Premium Lager • Pretty Things American Darling • Shmaltz Coney Island Sword Swallower
A Few Beers to Try with This Recipe
Whisk the cornstarch, mustard powder, and water together in a small bowl to make a slurry. Stir the slurry into the cheese mixture and continue to cook at a low simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes to let the flavors develop. Stir in the pepper, taste, and season with additional black pepper and cayenne as needed. Transfer to a fondue pot or serving bowl and serve with a platter of accoutrements.
Makes 4–6 servings
Nestled inside the scenic town of Hood River,
Full Sail Brewing Company does craft beer the right way. That is to say, it releases beers that use quality ingredients and are full of flavor, and its staff has some fun doing it. The brewery, which opened in 1987, stands in what was once a cannery and is employee owned. The 47 employees each have a financial stake in the business and keep things running smoothly to ensure that their beer gets into customers’ eager hands. Full Sail releases a bevy of brews that include award-winning beers like Session Premium Lager, Session Black Lager, and the holiday Session Fest, and a full range of styles, from the heavenly, sinful Black Gold (an imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels) to the hearty Wassail, a winter warmer. The location in Oregon gives the brewery team access to a variety of locally grown hops, and they use them well. Proponents of local and independently owned businesses, they regularly host events that showcase the best of what they love.
SPRECHER BREWING CO. GLENDALE, WISCONSIN
Slow-Cooked Doppelbock BBQ Meatballs
Just like the old saying “set it and forget it,” this is an easy recipe that lets a slow cooker do all the work for you. Combine the ingredients and return to the slow cooker a few hours later to a wonderful aroma and ready-to-serve bites. The recipe calls for Sprecher Root Beer BBQ sauce (available through the brewery’s website, or feel free to substitute another pop-inspired sauce), and it does make all the difference in flavor. The recipe yields a lot of meatballs, so it’s a great choice for a large gathering.
2 cups Sprecher Doppel Bock, or similar doppelbock 1 cup ketchup 1/2 cup Sprecher Root Beer BBQ Sauce 1/4 cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 pounds frozen cocktail meatballs
Combine the beer, ketchup, barbecue sauce, brown sugar, vinegar, garlic powder, salt, and pepper in a slow cooker. Add the meatballs and stir gently to make sure they are covered with the sauce (add more beer if necessary).
Serve the meatballs on a large platter with toothpicks for picking them up. Place the extra sauce in a small bowl for dipping.
Cover the slow cooker and cook on low heat for 6 to 8 hours. Halfway through the cooking time, check to see if you need to add more beer.
Makes about 20 cocktail servings
The Riot Sandwich, see page 100
HAYMARKET PUB AND BREWERY CHICAGO, ILLINOIS
The Riot Sandwich
see photo, page 96 An indulgence of pork highlighted by complex flavors, this sandwich has many steps — you’ll need a smoker and a meat grinder to properly pull it off — but the end result is worth it. The sandwich features a spicy Italian sausage patty, smoked pulled pork, mozzarella, and giardiniera on a brioche bun. This is the perfect alternative to burgers, when you need to feed a lot of people at a big summer gathering. It requires several hours of smoking, so be prepared with enough chips. A cult classic at the Windy City brewery that created it, this home version has been adapted by brewer Pete Crowley and chef Christopher McCoy. Make it once and your guests will ask for it again and again. Pair with an imperial IPA; Haymarket’s Mathias is a perfect choice, giving off hop flavors and aromas of citrus and tropical fruit. The sandwich is messy, spicy, sweet and sour, savory, delicious, and a riot.
1 tablespoon firmly packed dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon mustard powder 1 tablespoon onion powder 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 11/2 teaspoons kosher salt 21/2 pounds pork butt 1/2 cup barbecue sauce, plus more for serving
5 pounds pork butt or shoulder 1/2 pound pork back fat (available from a butcher) 5 teaspoons kosher salt 1/4 cup fennel seeds 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon brewer’s pale malted barley, milled (available from homebrew shops) 1/2 tablespoon brewer’s chocolate malted barley, milled (available from homebrew shops) 1/2 tablespoon brewer’s dark crystal malted barley, milled (available from homebrew shops) 1/4 tablespoon cayenne pepper 11/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 3 –5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
MAKE THE PULLED PORK: Preheat
the smoker to 225°F. Stir the brown sugar, garlic powder, mustard powder, onion powder, paprika, black pepper, and salt together in a small bowl. Rub the mixture all over the pork and place on the smoker. Smoke the pork for 4 to 9 hours, or until the pork reaches an internal temperature of 190°F. Replace the chip plates after 2 hours.
MAKE THE SAUSAGE: When the
Remove the pork mixture from the freezer and process it in a meat grinder; the chilled meat should push through easily and pockets of the pork and fat will be visible. Add the fennel seeds, garlic, pale barley, chocolate barley, dark barley, cayenne, and black pepper, and mix in a large bowl until the spices are evenly incorporated into the sausage mixture.
pork is an hour or two from completion in the smoker, mix the pork, back fat, and salt together, and place in the freezer for 30 minutes. (This will help firm up the proteins and keep the fats from breaking down during grinding and mixing.)
Remove the pork from the smoker, set aside, and let cool. Once the pork is cool, shred with two forks to create long strands of meat about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
100 Sandwiches and Burgers
Drinking beer lends itself to writing and quite often writing
lends itself to drinking beer. Many great writers have found the muse at the bottom of a glass. For those who put pen to paper, it’s nice to know there are places out there that still care about quality pints and treating writers with respect. In Chicago, that place is the Haymarket Pub and Brewery. Those lucky enough to know Pete Crowley, the talented brewer who did his time at other Chicago breweries, say he has been soaring since firing up the kettles in his new place in late 2010. The front bar and dining room is a spacious, light-filled space with warm wood furniture and a dizzying display of televisions broadcasting everything from NASCAR to Cubs’ games. Crowley has a fondness for Belgian beer and has been trying to bring the sensibilities, traditions, and flavors of Belgium into his own recipes. Add in a bit of his creative flair and you will find some fine recipes that everyone should appreciate and enjoy. The back bar is where the writers hang out and has a bookshelf stocked with great works of writing on every subject from Chicago history to, of course, beer. While it can be easy to get lost in the beers, it’s also important to mention the food at Haymarket. Diners rave about the thin-crust pizzas, housemade sausages, and hand-cut fries. In a city that has been blessed with a number of great breweries and beer bars, Haymarket has quickly joined the ranks of a proud tradition.
1 (15-ounce) jar giardiniera 15 thin slices mozzarella cheese 15 brioche hamburger buns, sliced Note: Make sure you have plenty of Carolina-style barbecue sauce (spicy, vinegary, and sweet) on hand to top off this sandwich.
Form the sausage mixture into 15 3-ounce patties. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a skillet over high heat and, working in batches, cook the patties until browned and cooked through; an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of a patty should reach 150°F. Repeat with the remaining sausage mixture, replacing and reheating the oil in the skillet as needed.
ASSEMBLE THE SANDWICHES:
Toss the pulled pork with the barbecue sauce. Build each sandwich by placing a layer of the giardiniera, a sausage patty, a slice of mozzarella cheese, and the pulled barbecue pork atop the bottom half of a brioche hamburger bun. Close the sandwich with the bun top and serve immediately with extra barbecue sauce.
Makes 15 sandwiches
Sandwiches and Burgers 101
North Coast Brewing Company is a California brewery that
walks the walk, talks the talk, and produces strong and flavorful beers worthy of your time and glass. Take for example the Brother Thelonious used in the short ribs recipe. Not only is the 9 percent dark strong ale everything one would want from the style, it is named after the late jazz master, Thelonious Monk, and a portion of the sales goes to benefit a charity in his name. The affable and knowledgeable Mark Ruedrich heads the brewery and has been an advocate for bringing new beers to market while honoring the past of craft brewing. For example, North Coast has resurrected the Acme Beer name — a California brewing staple dating back to the 1800s. Visit the brewery and attached taproom and restaurant for a true taste of California with some genuine brewer hospitality.
Duck Chiles Rellenos
Rellenos are stuffed peppers, and this recipe combines a multitude of flavors for those who enjoy spicy heat. Anaheim chiles are sometimes called California or Magdalena chiles and rank among the lowest on the heat scale. Chicken may be substituted for duck, but this dish gets a lot of additional flavor from the waterfowl. Use a bold red ale heavy on the caramel malts (like the Karl Strauss Red Trolly Ale) for the cooking and pair the end result with a hoppy red ale.
KARL STRAUSS BREWING COMPANY SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA
MAKE THE SAUCE: Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onions and garlic and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the chiles, sugar, cinnamon, salt, black pepper, chicken broth, beer, and vinegar to the saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook until the chiles are soft, about 30 minutes.
longer. Remove the sauce from the heat and let cool slightly. Transfer the sauce to a blender and purée until smooth. Strain the sauce through a mediumfine strainer, pushing the solids against the sides of the strainer until dry; discard the dry solids. Adjust the thickness of the sauce to that of thick cream with water if needed. Cover and set aside.
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 4 dried ancho chiles 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup chicken broth 1 cup Karl Strauss Red Trolley Ale, or similar ale 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 cup crushed pineapple 1 banana, peeled and thinly sliced Water, if needed
SHREDDED DUCK MEAT
ANCHO CHILE SAUCE
Add the pineapple and banana and cook the sauce for 10 minutes recipe continues on next page
2 duck legs 1/2 cup Karl Strauss Red Trolley Ale, or similar ale 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/4 cup canola oil 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 ounces pepper jack cheese, shredded (1/2 cup) 1/4 cup sweet corn kernels, fresh or frozen and defrosted 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves 2 Anaheim chiles Cotija cheese, for serving
MAKE THE FILLING: Preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the duck legs in a single layer in a baking dish. Add the beer, butter, oil, salt, and black pepper, cover with aluminum foil, and bake until the duck is tender and easily pulls away from the bone, about 90 minutes.
for 1 minute. Once grill marks appear, turn the chiles over and cook on the other side until hot, about 2 minutes longer.
Remove the dish from the oven and remove the duck legs from the baking dish to cool. (Discard any fat in the baking dish.) Once cool, remove and discard the skin and bones and shred the duck meat. Place the shredded duck meat in a medium bowl and gently mix in the cheese, corn, cilantro, and 1/2 cup of the ancho chile sauce.
ASSEMBLE THE CHILES
Rewarm the remaining ancho chile sauce on the stovetop or in a microwave. Place 1/2 cup of the sauce in the center of a serving plate. Place the rellenos atop the sauce, sprinkle with the cotija cheese, and serve immediately.
Makes 2 servings and 1½ cups sauce
RELLENOS: Prepare a hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill or preheat the oven to broil. Roast the Anaheim chiles, turning occasionally, until the skins start to blister and char. Remove the chiles from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Peel the skin from the cooled chiles and rinse under cold water.
The chiles will be fragile at this point, so carefully cut a slit into one side of each chile and, if desired, gently remove its seeds with a spoon. Stuff the chiles with the shredded duck meat mixture, dividing it equally between the two chiles. Place the stuffed chiles on a medium-hot oiled grill and cook
Chris Cramer and Matt Rattner were pioneers in what is
now a celebrated beer destination. Opening the first microbrewery in San Diego since Prohibition, the duo successfully navigated outdated laws and red tape to bring locals Karl Strauss Brewing Company. Chris’s cousin Karl M. Strauss, a successful and celebrated brewmaster who trained at Weihenstephan and had a career at Pabst, lent his name and expertise to the new venture. The response was immediate and strong, and the brewery grew. In addition to their large production brewery, the two friends own eight brewery restaurants and boast an impressive lineup of annual beers, special releases, and fun events.
Sage Veal Medallions
This tasty recipe, which owes much of its flavor to pine nuts and fresh herbs, is as great for weeknight dinners as it is for fancier weekend meals. For the wary: Many butchers now sell humanely raised veal. Consult the package label or talk to your butcher before purchasing the veal. Pair this dish with a saison, such as Willimantic’s Flowers Infusion, which has many botanical notes that draw out the flavors of the dish.
WILLIMANTIC BREWING COMPANY WILLIMANTIC, CONNECTICUT
Combine the flour with salt and pepper to taste in a medium bowl. Dredge the veal in the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess, and set aside.
sage, the garlic, and salt and pepper to taste.
Warm the olive oil in a large skillet. Add the veal and pan-sear for 11/2 minutes; flip and cook for 1 minute longer. Transfer the veal to a plate to rest. Return the skillet to the heat, add the lemon juice, and cook, stirring up the browned bits in the pan. Add the butter and stir into the lemon juice; allow to melt and thicken slightly. Add the pine nuts, the tablespoon of sliced
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the fettuccine to desired doneness according to the package instructions. Drain the pasta, and then spin the fettuccine into the sauce with tongs.
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour Salt and freshly ground black pepper 21/2 pounds veal medallions, pounded thin 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted 6 whole sage leaves plus 1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh sage leaves 3 garlic cloves, minced 11/2 pounds dried spinach fettuccine 12 fresh chives, thinly sliced
Transfer the pasta to a large round plate and top with the veal medallions. Garnish with the whole sage leaves and chives and serve immediately.
Makes 6 servings
Housed inside a decommissioned post office in central
Connecticut, Willimantic Brewing Company is a perennial award winner that draws both locals and those from the nearby University of Connecticut. While some renovations have been made to the 1909 building, to the delight of philatelists it retains much of its postal heritage. The menu features some unexpected surprises, and the staff is as welcoming to visitors as to regulars. Thanks to the bevy of beers made on premises, the locals have plenty of reasons to make the brewery a regular stop.
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