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Celebrating Our 100th Issue


Vol. 17/No. 100


Classic Cabinet Styk

No. 100

August, 1995

E D I T O R ' S


Editor Executive Editor Managing Editor Assistant Editors Creative Director Senior Illustrators Illustrator Photographer Electronic Graphics Design Director Senior Designer Shop Manager Shop Asst/Facilities Donald B. Peschke Douglas L. Hicks Terry J.Strohman Jon Garbison Mark A. Williams TedKralicek David Kreyling Cinda Shambaugh DirkVerSteeg Erich Lage Crayola England Chris Glowacki Ken Munkel Kent Welsh Steve Curtis Steve Johnson


Sw6serijotionMancw7ers:SandyBaum,TroyJ.Dowell, Paige Rogers • Assistant Subscription Managers: Shane Francis, Julie Greenlee • Newsstand Manager: Kent A. Buckton

Mgr: Gordon Gaippe • Graph. Artist: Cheryl L. Cynor

Planning Director: Jon Macarthy • Controller: Robin Hutchinson 'Account.: Laura Thomas • Bookkeeping: Holly Lucas • Production Mgr.: Carol Quijano • Info. Serv. Mgr.: Joyce Moore • Elec. Pub. Coord.: Douglas M. lidster • Network Adm.: Nick Thielen • Admin. Assistants: Cheryl A. Scott, Julia Fish* Receptionist: Jeanne Johnson • Build. Maint: Ken Griffith

Art Dir.: Cindy Jackson • Catalog Prod. Mgr.: Bob Baker • Inv. Control/Prod. Mgr.: Mark Mattiussi • Proj. Supplies: Linda Jones • Tech. Supp: Dave Stone • System Operator: Tammy Aldini

t's still hard to believe that this is the 100th issue of Woodsmith. To me, it just doesn't seem that long ago that I was working on the first issue. I guess time does fly when you're having fun. READERS' GALLERY. To help celebrate our 100th issue, I wanted to do something special. Something a little different. So a couple issues back I asked readers to send in photographs of Woodsmith projects they had built. To say that I was pleased with the response would be an understatement. I can't remember the last time I had so much fun opening the mail. Every day we received dozens of entries. (There's one day's worth shown at the bottom of this page.) And every day I was impressed by the quality and variety of the projects being built. But best of all, it didn't seem to matter if a person had been a woodworker for 22 years (like Mary Ellen Hampton), or they were building their first woodworking project. All of them seemed to share a genuine love of woodworking. And that's something I'm proud to be part of. All in all, we received hundreds of photographs. Many more than we could ever hope to put on two pages. So we picked photos that represented a wide variety of Woodsmith projects. Congratulations to those people whose projects appear on pages 16 and 17. And to everyone who submitted photos — thank you.

The Readers' Gallery isn't the only thing special about this issue. We've also included three special projects. CLASSIC WORKBENCH. The last time we featured a traditional workbench was in Woodsmith issue No. 50. But this time, instead of a "European-style" bench with an open base, we took a different approach. We designed a classic cabinet style workbench. (It reminds me of the kind of bench you might have seen in a turn-ofthe-century woodworking shop.) Besides offering plenty of storage for various tools and accessories, this bench also features a solid maple top. And an easy to install, bolt-on woodworking vise. As I said before, this bench has an old fashioned feel to it. So we wanted to photograph it in an old fashioned setting (see the photos on the front and back covers). The trick was finding the right setting. But we found it right here in Des Moines: the woodshop at Living History Farms. (Living History Farms is an open air museum that tells the story of Midwestern agricultural and rural life.) DOVETAIL CHEST. The other "old fashioned" project in this issue is the dovetail chest on page 18. It features traditional hand-cut joinery and a shellac finish.

the three-board shelf on page 28. It's a simple weekend project with a unique mounting system.

Manager: Jennie Enos'Team Leader: Karla Cronin • Customer Service Reps.: Jennifer Murphy, Joy Krause, Sara Kono, Anna Cox, Lonnie Algreen, Adam Best, Kristi Andrews

Supr: Nancy Johnson • Fulfillment Gloria Sheehan, Chuck Carlson, Sylvia Carey, Larry Prine

Manager: Dave Larson • Assistant Manager: Paul Schneider»Sa£es Staff: Wendell Stone, Pat Lowery • Office Manager: Vicki Edwards Woodsmith® (ISSN 0164-4114) is published bimonthly (Feb., Apr., June, Aug., Oct., Dec.) by Woodsmith Corp., 2200 Grand, Des Moines, IA 50312. Woodsmith® is a registered trademark of Woodsmith Corp. Copyright© 1995 Woodsmith Corporation. All rights reserved. Subscriptions: Single copy: $3.95. One year subscription (6 issues), $19.95. Two years (12 issues), $35.95. (Canada/Foreign add $5 per year, U.S. funds.) Second Class Postage Paid at Des Moines, IA and at additional offices. Postmaster: Send change of address to Woodsmith, Box 10718, Des Moines, IA 50350. Subscription Questions? Call 1-800-333-5075, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm, Central Tune, weekdays. E-Mail. Prodigy: EDJE97A, CompuServe: 75330,2301, Internet 75330.2301@compuserve.com., America Online: Donpeschke. Printed in U.S.A.


No. 100





Classic Workbench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Sturdy and solid — nothing on this workbench is fragile. Even the metal vise features heavy wooden jaws, so it has a wide clamping surface and holds a pair of bench dogs.

Classic Workbench

page 6

Laminated T o p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
There are two tricks to building aflat laminated bench top: laying out the boards properly and gluing them up. We've included some tips, techniques, and a simple jig for making this process as easy and accurate as possible.

Readers* G a l l e r y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Many readers responded to our request for snapshots of the projects they've built from past issues. Here's your chance to see the work of some fellow woodworkers.

Dovetail Chest
page 18

Dovetail C h e s t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8
This heirloom chest is just a box with a lid — and a sliding tray inside. It'll give you a chance to use some traditional woodworking techniques and an old-fashioned finish.

Hand-Cut Dovetails


If you've never cut dovetails by hand (or if you need a quick "refresher course"), here's our simple step-by-step method.

Three Board Shelf

Hand-Cut Dovetails

Nothing fancy here, just three boards. But don't miss the unique hanging system. About all you need for this project is a board foot of lumber and an evening to build it.

Tips & T e c h n i q u e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Shop Notes 30 S o u r c e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Three Board Shelf
No. 100

page 28

You can make a new base fit any shape you want. It cradles the built at a 45° angle Qike a bay workpiece and keeps it from window). clamping jig. simply raise the bit to cut a slot FIRST: Cut out slot for bearing clearance SECOND: Raise profile bit to cut insert to the same shape Router table fence Insert Insert t ~" bit Straight Profile bit Woodsmith No. (I used a V8"-thick piece of Masonite. Simply remove the screws and take off the old pad. and then cut the profile. But for profile bits. I added 1 a replaceable insert to my fence. but instead I converted my finishing sander into one. Jace Laakso Missoula. But here's the best part. To solve this problem. You could buy an expensive detail sander (the kind with a triangle-shaped head). see Fig. It fills in the space around the bit so small pieces won't get caught in the opening. But a large opening isn't safe when routing small pieces — they can wedge between the bit and fence causing kickback. There's a base Orville Heitkamp piece with an opening cut in it to Belle Plaine. Then use it as a template to mark the mounting holes for a new base. A clamping block on ing to clamp and glue the front top pushes the workpiece down frame pieces together. So first cut a clearance slot in the insert. 2. That's against the angled base. Indiana Cut insert to cover opening in fence For straight bits. That because the frame pieces were way when the clamp is tightened the mitered pieces are ripped at 22^° (half of 45°). 3. 100 . The self-adhesive sandpaper I use seems to stick better. see display cabinet with a glass front drawing below. see Fig.) I make an insert for each bit. 1. It's cut a little larger than needed for the woodscrews that hold it in place. Mark Muncie Indianapolis. My solution was a two-piece squeezed tight together. It's easy to do. simply rout a shallow mortise Qike the mortise for a hinge) around the opening. Montana Remove existing base and install auxiliary base 45° CORNER CLAMP • I was recently working on a match the angle of the miter. simply raise it in the router table and cut out the insert.moving. To make an insert for your fence. the bearing gets in the way. Minnesota * Masonite base Cut base to any shape you need Base cradles workpiece while clamping block ROUTER FENCE INSERTS • I need a large opening (for clearance) in my router table fence when using large bits. And just deep enough to equal the thickness of the insert. The problem was try. But I like V4"-thick Masonite. This new base can be made from almost any thin material. Just change bases. see Fig."7T FROM F E L L O W W O O D W O R K E R S Tips & Techniques SANDER CONVERSION • Sanding in tight places is about as much fun as doing taxes. For a straight bit.

Self-adhesive backing holds them on the clamp jaws. we will send you $30 to $150. If we publish it. These pads are cut from sheets of heavy duty felt available at most hardware stores. Or if it's easier for you. Wisconsin Sill cock handle and carnage bolt replaces studded knob Simply insert a Vi" carriage bolt in the handle and add a nut and washer. clearance hole in each of the blocks. E-Mail: 75330. see Fig. Mark Routzahn piece won't drop into it. like you'd find on a router table. the strap "hangs-up" on a sharp outside corner. see Fig.BAND CLAMP BLOCKS • I like to use a band clamp and corner blocks to glue-up mitered pieces.2301@compuserve. send it to Woodsmith. But instead of buying them. I make my own. 2. see Fig. 3. 1. So I made a set of corner blocks with a rounded outside edge.com. 1. Ed Flietner Phillips. please include a daytime phone number. Tips and Techniques. You cut all four blocks from a IW-thick blank. And don't worry. But on many blocks. • Clamp pads can prevent a lot of dents. And a Masonite base covers the Then use the table saw to cut the hole in the tabletop so the work. fits the opening in the handle perfectly. see Fig. But it's easier to do most of your FIRST: Make partial work on the blocks while they're Next. No. is a carriage bolt and a sill cock handle (the metal handle from a water spigot). saw the pieces apart. Also.inside corners exactly 90°. 100 Woodsmith . all four sides to define the block A tall fence supports the work- size. 1. To do that. blocks. see Fig. The diameter can be cut next on the band saw and sanded smooth. see Fig. FAX it to us at: 515-282-6741. Then drill a 1/4" dia. 2. Iowa 50312. Both are available at local hardware stores. depending on the published length. groove is routed First. Des Moines. Now cut the blank into four Tiffin. lay out all of your cuts. The square shank on the bolt. 2200 Grand Avenue. Include a brief explanation and sketch (or photo). Ohio Use band saw to cut out blocks Tall auxiliary cuts to divide blank into four sections Roll workpiece past bit to make groove fence Saw between kerfs Wdiameter > Rotate block 90° to clearance hole make second cut auxiliary base SECOND: Cut out circle and drill Va" Masonite clearance holes QUICK TIP SILL COCK KNOBS • A quick replacement for large plastic knobs. Arkansas SUBMIT YOUR TIPS If you would like to share an original shop-tested tip. around the outer edge to Then make a partial saw cut on hold the strap. we'll rewrite the tip and redraw the art if necessary. Gary Adler Gassville. a shallow still part of the blank. first band piece when rolling it past the bit.

A pair of dog holes in the block line up with the holes in the bench top so bench dogs can be used to hold big projects. So why not build a workbench where the base not only supports the top but also provides space inside for your hand and power tools? That's the idea behind this workbench. Just four lag screws hold it in place. hard maple top adds considerable weight to a storage cabinet already filled with tools. a drawer and two trays ride on full-extension slides to keep your tools accessible. And the vise is easy to install. The trays and drawer store a shop's worth of tools — within easy reach. This laminated. 100 . To hold these projects on the bench. When you combine the two. Woodsmith No. maple-block covering the front jaw. And to make it easy to use this storage space.F E A T U R E P R O J E C T Class& Workbench The base of this workbench does more than support the top. there's a metal woodworking vise attached to one corner with a thick. ost shops can always use more storage space. you end up with a "rock-solid" workbench capable of handling most any project. Then there's the top.

19V2"- • (2pr. 100 Woodsmith .Vise mounted with (4) are mounted with fullextension drawer slides wood knobs vise to open and close freely V2" x 3" lag screws Frame and panel doors TraysFrame and panel back HARDWARE LIST • • • .face BASE: Outside case is made from cherry hardwood and plywood Interior framing and drawers made from maple hardwood and plywood NOTE: Complete cutting diagram and materials list on page 13 CROSS SECTION END VIEW ———— 22%" ————— VISE DETAIL CROSS SECTION The Record #52V2 ED vise with wood jaws has an open capacity of 9%" Solid steel handle Drawer _ Ball catch for doors Note: Drawer and trays Wood spacer _ Quick-release lever allows ^. (1) Record #52V2 ED Vise (2)#14x2" RhWoodscrews (4) 1/2" x 3" Lag Screws (4) 1/2" Washers (8) #4 x 1/2" Fh Woodscrews (4) 1/4" x 3" Lag Screws (4)V4" Washers (20) #8 x 13/4" Fh Woodscrews (36) #8 x 11/4" Fh Woodscrews (16) #8 x 1" Fh Woodscrews (3 pr. Wood Knobs Hardwood kickboard .Construction Details Record #52'/2 ED vise with quick-release mechanism Made from strips of 8/4 hard maple glued face-to.) 16" Full-Extension Drawer Slides • (4) 1V4"-dia.)2" x1 3 /s" Ball-tipped Hinges • (2) Ball Catches No.

First. Two fit behind the top rails on the front sides of the drawer and door openings and First. These are just 3/4M-thick pieces of plywood CROSS SECTION with 3/8M rabbets cut on both edges. (It works best to rout this chamfer in several passes. Next. On most projects. These are just 3/4"-thick pieces to fit around the base and are glued and screwed to the back two corners of the case of stock glued and screwed flush with the screwed in place. CROSS SECTION (SIDE VIEW) K. see Fig. Instead. to make the in place case stronger. 7 and 7a. After tightening your clamps. see Figs. I turned my attention to NOTE: #8x1%"Fh Cleats cut from woodscrew the inside of the case. see Fig. NOTE: Bottom fits flush with top of rail First. BOTTOM (%" plywood) Then assemble the sides and frames and glue and clamp the case together. all stiffeners (N) to fit inside the case. 2. while the third is glued to the top rail are glued and clamped to the front frame. This piece of V£"-thick plywood rests Stiffeners glued ! on the cleats and helps strengthen the cabito rails to net when it's glued and screwed in place. These cleats are positioned so the case bottom (added next) will HORIZONTAL STIFFENER^ fit flush with the top edge of the bottom rail CROSS SECTION (%'x 2'x 34W) la on the front frame. I cut a pair of front/back cleats -<K) CLEAT (I'A'-wide) (K) and a pair of side cleats (L) to fit inside the case. Each rabbet forms a tongue that fits into the CASE grooves already cut in the stiles. I cut the stock to finished width (4") frame.a pair of case sides (J) are cut next. 6 and 6b. 5. CROSS SECTION (TOP VIEW) a. I added a pair of mounting (S) and side kickboards (T) are mitered vertical stiffeners (O) are glued and cleats (R). Then the front/back kickboards Next. the case bottom (M) can be cut to size. with a V£" chamfer routed along the top of the back frame. 4a. between the horizontal stiffener and case top of the case sides. After the cleats are installed. I added vertical stiffeners. To complete the case. MOUNTING R)Ci£A7 VERTICAL STIFFENER O. 2a. With the case assembled. 100 Woodsmith . see Fig.) Fh I woodscrew CLEATS. I added frame stiffeners.thick stock and working my way up. Now to hold the top edge. MOUNTING CLEATS. 4. starting at the bottom %". strengthen frame STIFFENERS. I started by cutting three horizontal bottom. BOTTOM. tical stiffeners (P) and (Q) fit along the that's left is to install a kickboard. check that the case remains square. I routed a decorative stopped chamfer on all four corners. see Fig. the in place later. see Figs. But not here. It's an easy way to strengthen the stub tenon joints. 6 and 6a. 4. 5a. l_KUii iCtllUIH (SIDE VIEW) ^\ \ i l t l \V-N NOTE: Glue and screw stiffeners to •«-7!4-*fi? Fh woodscrt w ^ #8x 13/4" ft ll Miter kickboards to fit around case backs of stiles ^ f^ No. see Fig. see Fig. see Fig. These W-thick pieces of maple cover the joint lines on the frames. The other verKICKBOARD. see Figs. see Fig. CHAMFER STILES. 3. I'd be finNOTE: i ished with the cabinet once the bottom was Glue stiffeners installed.

Here again. I decided to use pull-out trays because it makes it a lot easier to get at your tools — especially the ones at the back. see Figs. Then cut the drawer front/back (Y) and sides (Z) to finished size and lay out and cut the dove tails. see Fig. see Fig. see Fig. Making the tray bottom (X) from W plywood keeps it from sagging when loaded with tools. TRAYS. refer to page 24. 9a. first measure the opening between the cleats (mine was SOVfe"). I cut a 3/4"-wide rabbet at both ends of the sides for lap joints to join the tray pieces together. & DOORS Once the outside of the case was finished. 10 and lOa. see Fig. It should fit snug in the tray pieces before you glue the tray together. 8a. It has hand-cut dovetails for strength and durability. see Fig. To get the needed clearance. They don't extend all the way to the front of the case. Then subtract 1" for the thickness of two slides and Vfe" for the lap joints at the corners. Then cut the bottom (AA) to fit tight and glue and clamp the drawer together. TRAYS. 9b. Once again. DRAWER. I turned my attention to the inside to add a pair of trays and a drawer. So I added slide cleats (U) to provide a mounting surface for the slides. Then a groove can be routed on the inside face of all the tray pieces to hold a W-thick piece of ply® SLIDE CLEAT CROSS SECTION (SIDE VIEW) NOTE: Screw cleats to vertical stiffeners Install cleats and slides VK" from front frame 16" fullextension drawer slide NOTE: Slides mount to cleats with screws wood for a bottom. To determine the size of the front/back tray pieces. CLEATS.) Next. These cleats are 3/4M-thick pieces of stock screwed to the frame stiffeners. lOb. I planned on using full-extension slides for the drawer and trays. I used VzHthick plywood for added strength. With the trays complete. (My tray was 16" x 29 W. I installed the cleats Vie" back from the inside face of the front frame. It matches the length of your slides (16"). a. 9. Finding the size of the tray sides is easier. With the cleats installed in the case. I used these measurements to cut the tray front/back (V) and sides (W) to finished size.DRAWER. otherwise the doors and drawer wouldn't close all the way. I began work on the trays. you want to measure the TRAY SIDE opening before making any cuts. 100 . 8. For more on cutting dovetails. But the slides couldn't be screwed to the case sides because the frame stiffeners got in the way. see Fig. What's different is how the drawer is held together. SIDE TOP VIEW END VIEW Size groove to match plywood v / J~ L^' I I TRAY FRONT V2" ' FRONT/BACK- 10 Woodsmith No. the drawer is built next. Now rout a groove to accept a drawer bottom.

f b . 11 and lla. I used a pair of 16" slides for the drawer and each tray. Here. But don't worry about it. And a pair of ball catches is installed in the cabinet to hold the doors closed. First. tenons are cut on the ends of the the middle. trimmed for clearance later. bottom. 13. So I measured the opening in rails to fit snug in the grooves. The unique thing about these ons when cutting the rails to length. 12. see detail a. a false front (BB) is added next. a groove is routed in all the frame The goal here is to have a Vie" clearance on the top. After the drawer and trays are complete. the next step is to install the full-extension drawer slides. i Mortise hinge DOOR int0 D0th door f. Now a pair of hinges can be installed on each door by mortising them into the front frame and door stiles. see Fig.You'll probably notice the groove cut for the drawer bottom is still visible on the drawer front. see Figs. I used a couple pennies for spacers to hold the door in position while installing the hinges. holes for some wood knobs. Then the other half is mounted to the drawer or tray. keeping the needed clearance around the drawer and glue the knobs in the holes. 100 Woodsmith 11 . 8. see Figs.) Basically. Before screwing the false front to the drawer.• anci STILE front frame No. see Fig. Finally. It'll be hidden by a false front added later. This is just a 3/4M-thick piece of stock that fits in the case with a Vie" clearance all around. 13. the frame first (19 Vs" x 32") and then cut the Then a door panel (EE) is cut to fit in each frame before gluing the door together. see Fig. 13a. one half of the slide is screwed to the slide cleat in the case. (To find sources for the hardware you need to build this bench. DOORS 16" fullextension drawer slide Exposed groove will be hidden by false front NOTE: Center of slide aligns with layout fine Maintain Vie gap around arawer stiles (CC) and rails (DD) f or a tight fit. Note: Later.sECTION Center 1 W-dia knob on width of door stile. see page 31. ^ ———— . FALSE FRONT. a pair of knobs is attached to the door stiles. I drilled a pair of V2"-dia. see Fig. 13b. 13 and 14. see Fig. With the drawer installed in the case. see The last thing to add to the cabinet is a set Fig. You also need the panel. SLIDE INSTALLATION. after the doors are assembled doors is they're cut to fit tight first — then you can trim them for the Vie" clearance. 14. see Figs. installing the slides is a twostep process. Then install the false front. see Fig. Next. But remember to allow for the tenof doors. to complete the doors. And to hold the frame same clearance (Vie") between the doors in together. 14a and 14b. / (T<M> VIEW) \ \ '• P \\1 _* 1 x '> V J ^/P NOTE: = K /' \ \ Keep a ' clearance around doors. and along the sides of pieces to match the thickness of the center the doors. CROSS j '.

Once the top a metal vise. see detail 'a. the vise can be installed next.Fig.Figs. see Fig. There's one more thing to do be. Later. I used a belt sander to sand fore gluing the top together. now. the corners on the long. You could glue the bench top strips together ft'-dia. the two outside strips (1 and 13) only U CROSS SECTION have holes on one face. Next. Now drill shank holes through the cleats in the cabinet and use 3" lag screws with washers to hold the bench top in place. 16.BENCH TOP After the cabinet is complete. VISE With the top secured to the cabinet. To keep all CROSS SECTION (BENCH STRIPS) c. a series of /4"-dia. into this pocket. and you have a ROUNDOVER. dowels. But I didn't want to wrestle dog hole with a heavy top. see detail 'b. the metal jaw is But first I routed an Vs" chamfer around the J CROSS SECTION (FACE BLOCK) bottom edge. CORNER DETAIL BENCH TOP STRIP the strips aligned when gluing them together. see exploded view at right. Then rout a Vs" chamfer around each hole to soften the sharp edges. This way.' But remember. 15 Rout pocfcet in bench strip for vise jaw CROSS SECTION 9Vis" n Top edge Front strip (Ato. covered by the front strip. STRIPS. it can be attached to the cabinet. 15 and 18. the top is sanded to its final thickness (3W). Note: For more on building laminated tops. dog holes are drilled in the top for Sana to final bench dogs. the the end where the vise will be mounted. tail 'c. see Fig. I drilled holes for short lengths of ^"-dia.' Refer to thickness of 3Vi page 31 for sources of bench dogs. And that's to the top and bottom faces smooth. see de. I used a Record vise. 17. rout a pocket in the front strip for mounting BENCH TOP INSTALLATION. First.' Note: But don't round the corner at GLUE-UP. With the pocket routed. see NOTCH. 100 . And there are still a few things left 3 to do. ALIGNMENT HOLES. Then position the top so it's centered side to side with a IVi" overhang on the back. The back jaw of the vise slips is sanded.) Do not use alignment dowels in first two holes I FRONT VIEW 17 Laminated Top NOTE: Install top so it's centered side-to-side on cabinet Before mounting top to base rout Vs" chamfer around bottom edges CROSS SECTION (SIDE VIEW) chamfer-^ '-*' washer ~.7. 17a. Later. These strips are l3/4"-thick pieces of stock cut to a finished length of 62" and a rough width of 39/i6". I worked on the bench top next. refer to page 14. bench top strips can be glued together. smooth surface to clamp against.VA" x 3" lag screw 12 Woodsmith No. see two outside strips are rounded over. (BENCH STRIPS) DOG HOLES. This laminated top consists of 13 bench top strips (FF).

I used a handheld router to rout a Vfe" chamfer on the top edge (including the vise).% %"x6". 100 Woodsmith 13 . view and detail 'd' on page 12./Bk.60 (rgh) 3/4 ply. Strips (13) 13/ 4X 39/16 . see Fig. V Y///// /•//// // 1 //.72" Cherry (3. 18. 323/4 1 /4 x 3/8 .. Ft. Ft) C %" x 5".model #521^ ED.72" Cherry (3 Bd.7 Bd.5 Bd. Ft) Y L 1 L I ft Y I F 2 ft ' // / '/ / / K Z %" x 5". Cleats (2) 3/ 4 x1V4-15 Fr. (2) 3 / 4 X 4 .. -15'/4 x 283/4 3/4 X 43/8 .5 Bd.5 Bd. Upper Rails (2) H Fr.u.113/4 3 DD DD DD DD '// // 1%"x5". To complete the bench top.? ».^ N \ ''/'/' //' \ 3 %" thickness A" thickness No.243/8 S S — -7/// G / /.) F BB //// '/// ALSO NEED: Vt"x48"x48" K Vi' x 48" x 48" V Tray Fr. .29V2 3/4X43/8-16 Z Dr. I added a spacer block (GG) to make the top of the face block (added next) level with the bench top. Ft.'/ /// '' '/ /// K L M N O P Q R S T U Case Sides (2) Fr./Bk Kickbrds. I covered the front jaw with a thick maple block. glue toplate on the vise (in my case 5" x 9"). False Fr. Cleats (2) 3/4 X 1 V4 . Sides (2) AA Dr. -16V2 x 341/5 Hor. mounting holes through the 2W-thick laminated piece. Stiffeners (3) 3/4 x 2 . Stiffeners (2) 3/4 x 11/4 . '/'// B G / /' / // / /. Fr.72" Cherry (2. (1) CC Door Stiles (4) DD Door Rails (4) BENCH TOP V2 ply.5V5 (rgh) Vert. •'/.96" Cherry ( 6 Bd. -11 / 4 x 14% FF Bench. ea. Stiffeners (2) % x 1V4 .37V5 Side Kickbrds. . Ft. 19. Bottom (1) BB D r.323/4 3/4 X 67/8 .96" Maple (4. Then drill two 3 M /4 -dia. Then gether a couple pieces of stock to create a drill VS"-dia. But before installing the vise.151/4 x 283/4 3/4 x 47/3 .5 Bd. FACE BLOCK.) A A V x 7". This block protects your workpiece and also spreads the clamping pressure over a larger area. .34V2 Vert.96" Maple (6. see exploded ing the top smooth.) FF FF GG •. VISE INSTALLATION.341/i Side Cleats (2) 3/4X1V4-14 Case Bottom (1) 1/2 ply. Upper Rail (1) C Lower Rail (1) D Center divider (1) E Back Panels (2) F Fr. -171/4X32V5 —————————— O ——— ————— w ——————— —— u —————— u %"x4"-96" Maple ( 2. Q Rout Vs" chamfer around top edges NOTE: Chamfer top edge of face block with vise closed MATERIALS LIST CASE A Bk. (4) W Tray Sides (4) X Tray Bottoms (2) Y Dr. Maple plywood •/.15V4X243/8 3/4X2-32V5 3/4 x 2 . After installing the vise.) FF HH HH X^ EE Door Panels (2) 1/4 ply.72" Cherry (2. It features a quick-release on the front jaw.28Vs (rgh) Vert.1 9 V i Slide Cleats (6) 3/4X13/4-161/2 3/4X13/4-29 3/4X13/J-16 V4ply.) CC CC CC CC 3 /n" x48" x48" Cherry plywood 1/2 ply.) T T %" x 7". Lower Rail (1) I Filler Strips (1) J CUTTING DIAGRAM %" x 9".323/4 3/4 X 3 . .317/3 3/4 x 21/5 -19Vs 3/4 x 2 Vs .62 GG Spacer Block (1) 3/4 x 5 . so it can be moved in or out with the touch of a lever. Ft.. Ft. (2) / ///. Stiffeners (2) 3/4 x 1V4 -191/5 (rgh) Mntg.7 Bd. (2)3/4 x 4 . g HH Face Block (1) 2V2X4V8-14 l%"x8"-72" Maple ( 6 boards @ 7. . see Fig.. Ft.7 Bd. Stiles (2) G Fr. — .323/4 3 /4 x 43/8 . It removes the sharp edge left over from sand- piece of stock is cut to match the mounting To make the face block (HH).. Stiles (2) B Bk. Now rout a Vs" chamfer on the bottom edge and attach the face block to the vise.. This 3/4"-thick spacer block and screw the block and vise to the bench top./Bk. see Fig.) —————— N ———————— 3/4x2-32V5 3/4 X 2 . dog holes in the face block and round over the two outside corners./Bk.' I 0 ! /^ f / —— -. Ft.) ^ —— — .96" Maple (4 Bd. Ft. ' V ——————— V ————————— ——————— V ———————— ——— W ——— ——— W ———— '/'\ %" x 6". 18.

1. I'll mark an arrow on the board pointing to the crook. Bow is warpage along the edge from end-to-end. the crook is canceled. But you don't have to be a magician to get a solid. I'll put my straightest boards on the outside to help pull the rest of the bowed pieces straight. But when trying to assemble a laminated top. LAYOUT Like drawing and discarding playing cards to get a better hand. tight-fitting top if you know a few tricks. Once you have the boards arranged for crook. see Fig. But for larger defects you should shuffle the boards again. 14 Woodsmith No. That's because you're straightening the board across its thickness (not across the width). APPEARANCE. see Fig. With the pieces sorted for crook and bow. you can usually pull a bowed board straight. LABEL PIECES. you still need to consider how the boards will look when glued together. 100 . When you've identified the crook. You have a lot of boards to cut and fit together. the crook of a board can cause you more trouble than its bow. arrange your boards so the "bows" oppose each other. I'll cut it into shorter pieces for another project. Note: While rearranging the boards for bow. the boards in a laminated top need to be sorted for the best fit and appearance. 1 and the Shop Tip below. Then at the center measure the gap between the string and the board. CROOK. A simple way to measure crook is to use a string and some tape. Just stretch the string from end-toend and tape it in place. Place the straightest boards on the outside Arrange boards so bowed faces oppose each other Arrange pieces so the crook of the board alternates SHOP TIP Gap between string and workpiece shows crook Dry clamp the pieces together to check the fit Arrow points to face that fits in jig -^ How much crook is there? It's not always easy to tell. bow. Unlike crooked boards. BOW. see Fig. So I checked for crook first. So do you discard all the boards with crook? Well. Boards with less than Vfc" of crook can be used — if they've been sorted first. The maple boards I used all had a little crook and bow. This means checking each piece for crook and bow but also arranging the workpieces so the top looks its best. and appearance. It only takes two steps: laying out the boards so they're compatible with each other and gluing them together to avoid any gaps. Small blemishes will be sanded out when the top is leveled. if there's more than Vs" of crook. To keep track of the direction. This way when the pieces are forced flat. It can be difficult to Arrows point to crook of board "pull" a crooked board straight. remember to keep the crooks opposed. 2. Here again. you can sort the boards to minimize bow.W O O D W O R K I N G T E C H N I Q U E Laminated Top Building a laminated top may seem a little intimidating at first. Crook is warpage across the width of a board running from end-to-end. I arrange them so the crooks oppose each other.

a lot of readers have sent us photos of projects they've built from Woodsmith. Plus. Corbett. North Carolina "This is the only piece of furniture in our house that both children have requested when I die." Classic Roadster (Issue 51) Frank Pino Edwardsville. Bob Schuchard's pine armoire has a scalloped base and raised panels on the sides. What you see here is a sampling of the craftsmanship and ingenuity of our readers. County Wicklow. Jr. New York Pedestal Desk (Issue 79) R. 100 . we've received hundreds more since I announced this gallery in the Sawdust column a couple of issues ago. Saw Cabinet (Issue 47) David Kerski Eden Prairie. California Editor's Note: Tom used black walnut to build his oak rocker. Some followed our plans closely. Kansas Garden Bench (Issue 93) Bill Kilpatrick Enniskerry. Massachusetts Fort Collins. Chris Hellmuth Middle Island. we couldn't include every photo. Classic Workbench (Issue 50) Donald Jacoby Arvada. E." Regulator Clock (Issue 36) Armoire (Issue 67) Armoire (Issue 67) Bill Evans Bob Schuchard Rehoboth. We hope you enjoy seeing these completed projects as much as we have.C E L E B R A T I N G ONE H U N D R E D I S S U E S O1 O Readers' Gallery Oak Rocking Chair (Issue 84) Tom Baker San Diego. Ontario 16 Woodsmith No. Colorado Editor's Note: Most readers customize our projects to some extent. Colorado ver the years. others adapted them quite a bit. Bill Euan's cherry armoire looks just like ours but has drawers inside. Ireland Rocking Horse (Issue 65) William Murray London. Wilmington. Of course. Minnesota "This photo was taken in my library because my shop was too small.

WOODSMITH WOODWORKING PROJECTS Heirloom Cradle (Issue 48) Robert Kubiak Omro. but after seeing my first results. My wife complains about never seeing me anymore. South Carolina "I used old pine pallets for the wood to build this sewing box. 100 Woodsmith 17 . Oregon Country Coat Rack (Issue 86) Bob White Muskegon. North Carolina Oak Icebox (Issue 36) Ron Anderson Atlanta." No. I started with six and ended up with five." Ladder-Back Chairs (Issue 64) Lloyd Arundale Ridge." Country Pie Safe (Issue 55) John Zelenak Toms River. California "Antiquing this hutch took seven different finishes. she has slacked off a little. Tennessee Porch Swing-Glider (Issue 39) James Galluzi Poughkeepsie. Wisconsin Curved-Front Table (Issue 77) Mark Hoecker Charlotte. New York "The dining room chairs were the most challenging. Georgia "I'm brand new to woodworking. New Jersey Blanket Chest (Issue 32) Jack Couch Pinson." ill Tall Case Clock (Issue 70) Steve Hart West Linn. New York Country Hutch (Issue 96) Bud Migues Penn Valley. Michigan | Sewing Box (Issue 78) James Stephens Ladson.

see the box on page 23. a lot of antiques router or breathing the clouds of dust. and the process takes a little longer. Of course. deliberate work. frame of mind. This is one time to throw out the finished with shellac have put up with years of schedule. 100 . And what better way than to use an "antique" finish? Shellac has been used on furniture a long time. so the pace is a little slower. and its color adds a natural warmth that's hard to get from an off-the-shelf stain. After all. Okay. And while it may not match the durability of polyurethane. hand-cut dovetails aren't going to be machineprecise — especially with wide panels. applying the finish to this chest is rewarding too. the process is its own reward. I wanted it to match the "antique" character of the chest. There's something to be said for a few quiet hours in the shop. For stepby-step instructions. many woodworkers think of shellac as a "delicate" finish. But that fits the charm of this chest perfectly. And it's not difficult to apply either. Working without the roar of a Y Come to think of it.H E I R L O O M P R O J E C T Dovetail Chest The charm of this small chest is created with two "old" woodworking techniques: cutting dovetails by hand and brushing on a few coats of shellac. If you can put yourself in the right wear. They require careful. 18 Woodsmith No. ou don't want to rush hand-cut dovetails. That doesn't mean they have to be perfect.

END VIEW CROSS SECTION No. 100 Woodsmith 19 . Like the case. This tray sits on simple supports glued into the front and back of the case. Supplies list. ft.Overall Dimensions: 38Vs" x 79%" x 78'/s" Wood: Pine . the sliding tray inside the chest is joined with hand-cut dovetails. and cutting diagram on page 23. (See Materials list.43 bd. see a/t/c/e on page 24 LID- TRIM -Tray slides back and forth on wood supports FRONT BACK TRIM BOTTOMBASE Sliding Tray.) Finish: One coat of orange shellac Two coats of blonde shellac Wide chamfer shaped with block plane EXPLODED VIEW NOTE: All panels are glued up from solid wood BASE END BASE FRONT Dovetails cut by hand.

) I began by simply ripping each of these panels to width. there are some grooves to cut in the panels before you can assemble the case. The top one is a little wider (1"). Then you can measure the case opening for the final size of the bottom. Note: In the article beginning on page 24. To do this. But the extra width is covered by some molding added later. I added a long auxiliary fence to the miter gauge. 2 and the drawing on the next page. But when crosscutting. the long panels require some extra support.) Cut 3/s" x %" groove in case front and back only Wide pin at top is covered by trim molding later. the next step is to cut the front/back (A) and end (B) panels to finished size. see Fig. This way the pins on the ends will hide the grooves when the case is assembled. first you need to dry assemble the case. After the panels are glued up. see drawing above. is for the tray supports.CASE This dovetail chest starts out just as you'd expect: gluing up oversized panels. see Fig. there are step-by-step instructions for cutting dovetails by hand. 4a. It's %" wide and cut in the front and back panels only. It's 3/4" wide and cut in all four pieces. This way. There isn't anything unusual or difficult about these five 3/4"-thick panels. BOTTOM. Because the bottom is a solid wood panel and not plywood. But to do this. the groove will get covered by the molding at the bottom of the case. GROOVES. But don't worry about this. work can begin on the dovetails.1 centered these grooves in one of the pin openings. The other groove is for the bottom of the chest. it needs enough room to expand and contract with changes in humidity. 4. Actually. When the dovetails are complete. near the top. DOVETAILS. clamps should be positioned over tails 20 Woodsmith No. 100 . After the panels are cut to size. The dovetails are laid outSW on center. NOTE: All case panels are glued up from 3 /4"-thick stock The first groove. To allow for this movement. The important thing is that they are flat and all the same thickness. This allows for 3" tails and Vfe" pins. see the drawing at right. I cut the bottom (C) Vfe" smaller than the opening. not all the pins are V£". so it'll be visible from the outside when the case is first assembled. see Fig. This groove cuts through a tail. see next page Cut 3/a"-deep groove for bottom in all case pieces NOTE: To apply pressure. Later. This will make it much easier when it comes time to cut the dovetails. 1. see Fig. Now it's time to begin work on the bottom panel. see Fig. (The bottom will be cut to size later. 3. (Mine was 15W x 35Vs". it's much easier to get the panels square.

you'll need to sand them flush with the To make the trim front/back (G) and sides of the case.the table saw with the blade angled 15°. and I wanted and glue them in place. Finally. Some of this trim will sit on top At this point.) The base front/back (E) and base ends This takes quite a bit of time. see base pieces from 1 Vi6M-thick stock. I like the wide. I cut the is ready. That way. 7. A little hand pressure works fine. 6. (The cove profiles the base on this chest to look the same. so I used white (F) are first cut to rough length from 3"-wide glue. 3. see Fig. see the drawing below. To prevent this. all that's left is to add the W thick and 2" wide. see Fig. worry about attaching the molding with clamps.flush with the top of the case.) Here again.CASE ASSEMBLY. cut two W-wide along the top edge. cut a decorative chamfer While the glue is drying. thick base molding from each blank. 8. So should face each other. Next. the case is essentially com. Fig. side the case. see Fig. The next pieces to add clamps. rout a W chamfer on the bottom edges of the case and molding. This time. I wanted Then to complete the base.of the base molding. see drawa minute or two was all it took. 5. Miter the pieces to length I've seen on some older chests. blanks. Applying a little hand pressure for are some strips of trim molding. I didn't have to worry about using TRIM MOLDING. ing below. clamp a scrap piece across the end. to prevent chipping the edge if the chest ever gets dragged across the floor. start with blanks that are Once that's done. two 3/4M-wide (tall) trim pieces can be ripped BASE. so I used yellow glue.1 did this on tray supports (D) to fit in the grooves in. it's easy to round over a corner. The rest will end up plete. you can glue the case together. ing. It gives you a little more time to work. to length and glue them to the case. (But don't use glue on the bottom. trim ends (H). don't Rip chamfer on top. outside edge of base blanks Shop Tip: When using a belt sander. miter the pieces the glue to set up fast. FIRST: Rout profile SECOND: Rip trim to size CROSS SECTION TRIM FRONT/BACK V? Rout chamfer around * bottom edges of case No. After the bottom panel instead of using 3/4"-thick stock. 100 Woodsmith 21 . Then and bottom. see Fig. But if there are pins or tails protrud. Rout a cove base and some trim molding around the top along two edges using a W cove bit. see the Shop Tip at right.

Let it set a bit Then stir it again. so you can apply another coat after about three hours. so there's not much color. To avoid chipout. paper. 22 Woodsmith No. So. I also wanted the lid to have the same chamfer that's around the base. see photo. you should protect their fingers by installing a lid support. So I used a block plane. Though any alcohol will work. It takes several hours or more. mount the lid to the case. 100 . see drawing at right. for sources. So to keep the color lighter but still add more protection. this means you need to glue up another panel. see Fig. CHAMFER.) brass round head screw #8x% SHELLAC When choosing a finish for this chest. see page 31. (For sources. see Fig. of shellac flakes).p LID Now that the case is complete. first screw them to the case. this isn't a different type of shellac. starting with the ends of the lid. then thin it sanded the dovetail chest to 220-grit be. For this chest I used a 2 Ib. This prevents the lid from dropping back. I know it's fresh. Then after the two coats of blonde To apply shellac.) Once dissolved. So to determine the size of the lid (I). 10. It's ish too much with the brush. (The shellac reacts to metal. 10. 9. I applied two more coats of another "grade" of shellac: blonde shellac. skew the plane slightly so the cut shears off thin shavings.with 600-grit paper. The orange shellac gives the wood its warm color — and it doesn't blotch like a normal stain will. Just get it in the ballpark. Just like the other parts of the case. (See page 31. When the chamfer is cut. measure the case (including the trim) and cut the lid panel 1" longer and wider. "aged" color. Shellac doesn't dissolve like Kool-Aid. IID SUPPORT CHAIN. I use the flakes and mix my own. I use a natural bristle shellac were applied. But the thickness of this panel is different: it's IHe". Pour the flakes into a non-metal container. I wanted a warm. HINGES. Then simply trace around the barrels of the hinges on the bottom of the lid. It has an offset barrel and doesn't require a mortise. I applied one coat of orange shellac. And don't worry about being precise. This way. see page 31. Next. But the panel is too long to stand on end on the table saw. Then plane down to these lines. Now remove the lid and hinges. Shellac comes ready-to-use or in flakes that must be dissolved in alcohol. (Shellac comes in several grades. Safety Note: If children will be opening and closing this lid. To mount the hinges. cut.a little with more alcohol. The last thing to do to the lid is add a 15"-long piece of brass chain to the inside of the case. Then screw the hinges to the lid and reattach the hinges to the case. I decided to use the real thing: shellac. But instead of trying to mimic an old finish.) Then pour in the alcohol and stir it.) Actually. Before planing. I seems to be drying too quickly. Note: If the shellac before using it. For this chest. set the lid on top of the case and center it side-to-side and front-to-back. Before applying the first coat of shellac. I dissolve shellac in denatured alcohol. I rubbed out the finish brush. To do this. But I only mixed up a pint of each grade (which requires 4 oz. Shellac is mixed in "pound cuts" — the number of pounds of flakes to a gallon of alcohol. I wanted it to overhang the case a bit. I used a special hinge. But more than one coat makes the wood too dark. lay out the edges of the chamfer. The shellac a good idea to strain the shellac a few times dries fast. see Fig. I started work on the lid. I sanded the first coat lightly with 400-grit cause the soft grain of pine tends to raise when shellac is applied. It has just been purified more. The only trick is not to work the fin. Since you lift the lid from the edges. it begins to slowly deteriorate.

see drawing above right.20 rgh. When the tray bottom (L) has been glued up. ft. But I cut a rabbet along the bottom edge of the tray bottom to create a Vi" tongue. the last step is to build a tray that fits inside the case and slides back and forth on the tray supports.96" (Two boards @ 3. ® %" x 5". each) B B A B ''/. First. } /s „ NOTE: Cut tray bottom Va'smaller than groove opening MATERIALS A Front/Back (2) B Ends (2) C Bottom (1) 3/4X18V*-36 3/4x181/4-16 3/4 X 3/8 .3 bd. Then clean out the waste with a sabre saw.3 sq. Then to join all the pieces of the tray. I cut it to finished size. I cut the dovetails by hand — just like the case. holes to establish the length of the handle slot.96" (Two boards @ 3. L '/////.3 bd. each) A %" x 5". 14. ft. see Fig. ft) 1 ® L L '/. These handles are simply slots drilled and cut in the end pieces. the tray front/back (J) and tray ends (K) are cut to finished size. ft. see Fig. Next..40 rgh. there are two steps left. V x 8".143/8 • (1 pair) 3" No-mortise Hinges • (1) 15" Brass Chain • (2) #8 x 5/&" Brass Rh Screws 1/4x1314-231/8 " x 5". 12. each) No. Of course. This time. ty '////// ////.96" (Four boards @ 3. see Fig. I cut a W-wide groove %" deep in each piece for the tray bottom. 13. 1V16X18-38 3/4 x 31/2 . The panel should fit inside the tray (including the grooves) minus Vfe". Next. Then the tray can be glued together. Now sand them and rout a small chamfer on both the inside and outside edges. see Fig.3 bd.6 bd. it's glued up from ^"-thick stock. To do this. Q Va" chamfer on inside and outside edges of tray TRAY BACK TRAY END TRAY BOTTOM '/2"x13'/2"x231A' TRAY FRONT 11 L 12 TRAY BOTTOM _ TRAY FRONT/BACK 2V2- 0 k W chamfer on inside and outside edges . I wanted to add some "handles" to the ends of the tray.96" (Two boards @ 6. 11 and the drawing at right. each) '/2"x8"-96" (3. '/// ^ '/////. a VS"-thick panel won't fit into a W groove. 1/4 x 3/4 . first drill l"-dia. see Fig./ //// //// '////////. With the tray assembled.24 3/4 X 3'/4.TRAY With the lid attached. 12. First you want to chamfer the inside and outside edges so there are no sharp corners. ft. SUPPLIES G Trim Front/Back (4) H Trim Ends (4) I Lid(1) D Tray Supports (2) E Base Front/Back (2) F Base Ends (2) 1 Vie x 3 . see drawing at right. don't forget to plug the holes in the end pieces that were created by the grooves for the tray bottom. J Tray Front/Back (2) K Tray Ends (2) L Tray Bottom (1) 1/5x3/4-40 rgh. 1Vi6 x 3 -20 rgh. The bottom is another solid wood panel. 100 Woodsmith 23 . And finally.

Finally. Also. each piece must be flat and smooth. the next thing to do is arrange the panels. Stand up one board and place it against the end of the adjoining piece. When the panels are oriented just so. sort of like box joints. These steps don't really take much time. see Fig. but unlike box joints. First. 3. To lay out the baseline on wide panels (like those on the dovetail chest in this issue) . After all. not the ends. PINS FIRST. (And if they don't end up perfectly square to the baseline.) This is important because after the pins are cut. Regardless of which panel you start with. Plus. NOTE: Set combination square to thickness of panel 24 Woodsmith No. The baseline equals the thickness of the workpieces. It shows where to stop cutting. FLAT & SQUARE PANELS. when looking at this interlocking joint. In fact. see Fig. But it's also easier to cut them accurately. The pins slide in between the tails.W O O D W O R K I N G T E C H N I Q U E Hand^Cut Dovetails A step-by-step approach to cutting dovetails in wide panels. Then simply trace around it. it's a good idea to label adjoining corners with a letter. The tails flare out — like a dove's tail. Now when all the panels are ready. BASELINE. 2. you'll use them to lay out the positions of the tails. so you can't pull them apart any other way. and when you transfer the pins to the mating tail panels later. you can cut them either way. Just set the adjustable square to the thickness of the panel. And the ends of the boards must be square. The trick is to look at just the face of the board. W hich comes first. It's how I was taught and how I always cut them. ORIENTATION. Whether you're dealing with narrow boards or wide panels. 1. the easiest way to lay out the baseline is to use the boards themselves. 3. 100 . the pins or the tails? Frankly. it's easy to clean them up so they are. it can be hard to tell which one is the tail and which is the pin. Note: If you're working with small pieces. they can only slide in one direction. the pin panel or the tail panel. And from the face. The angled sides act as wedges. I mark a baseline around the ends of each panel. see Fig. some techniques for assembly and a few troubleshooting tips. I think the pins are easier to cut. the labels will save you a lot of head scratching. So why do I cut the pins first? There are a couple reasons. the pins are straight. all they should need is a little finish sanding. as well as the top edges. see Fig. WHICH IS WHICH? But maybe I'm jumping the gun.) STOCK PREPARATION. (Laying out the tails from the pins is also easier than marking the pins from the tails. When you're satisfied the panels are as flat and square as you can get them. The idea is to orient them so the finished project will look its best when it's put together. I use an adjustable square and a pencil. I label the outside and inside faces. you can begin work on the pins. your first step is always going to be the same: stock preparation. but I start with the pins.

When all the pins are sawn. No. I use a bevel gauge. the layout can be drawn around to the inside face. butt the gauge will be the narrowest part of the pin. I'll angle the chisel slightly toward me when chopping out the waste. make cuts on each side of them with a hand saw. the last thing to do is clean out the waste between them. just stay a bit more on the waste side of the line. But it really does pay off in the end. (I used 14° for the chest and 9° for the hardwood drawer on the workbench in this issue. So to prevent this. At this point. Then each pin on the face of the panel. this angle is usually greater than in hardwoods. see Step 4. I clamp a backing board to the panel.) to the pencil. Here. and draw the angled line. Correct cedure to remove the rest of the waste. lay out 2 panels. draw lines from the ends down The sides of the pins are formed by 3 to the baseline.the ends. tight fit.PINS: STEP-BY-STEP When cutting pins. straight baseline. When the pins are laid out. REMOVING THE WASTE. Again. easy set-up gauge. the pins can be cut. I can be extra careful with the good face. see Step 8." Another thing I do is undercut the shoulder. see Step 6. Then with a sharp chisel. Then. After removing an %". has reached the baseline on both sides. there are three things to do: lay out the pins. chop straight 5 first clamp a backing board along the 6 down. To lay out the angles across the ends. (This hold a pencil on the mark. After about Vfe" is removed. Stop when the kerf the inside and outside faces of each panel. make sure each pin is straight board in place again.) Shop Tip: For a quick. I do two things. making any adjustments if necessary. I begin by removing tiny "bites. Then mark the waste 4 cutting to the waste side of the lines sections between the pins. I start with the outside face toward me (the one with the narrow- est part of the pins). Especially when you start pounding on the chisel with a mallet. it's important to keep the hand saw straight up and down so the pin ends up square to the baseline. LAYING our. To remove the waste between the pins. I always mark the waste sections. it won't be visible. see Step 2. In softwoods. And now's a good time to check that each pin is straight and square. I always keep the outside face toward me. When half the waste is gone. The key to making dovetails as simple and accurate as possible is to be able to see exactly what you're doing. first set the bevel gauge. Waste - Save pencil lines Next. This makes it harder for me to cut on the wrong side of the line. 100 Woodsmith 25 . To ensure a clean. This way. All this marking and laying out may seem to take a lot of time. you'll need to spend a little time cleaning up all the corners. There will be more clean up with the chisel. any bad saw cuts with a chisel. This way. First. Here. Then chip out the waste from baseline. chisel slightly and undercut the shoulder. and clean out the waste between them. secure the panel with the outTo lay out each pin on the etuis of the 1 side face toward you. Then repeat the pro. Do this on both with a fine-tooth saw. flip the After cleaning up the corners with a 7 panel over and clamp the backing 8 chisel. see Steps 5-7. When all the waste is removed. Next. And if I'm off the line a bit on the inside face. Now to remove the waste. But this board can shift out of position. care. but you won't have to worry about gaps when the joint is assembled. tilt the fully establish a small shoulder. it's easier to get a good. Note: If you don't feel confident using a hand saw. miter a scrap piece at the angle you need. The first step is to lay out the position of the pins.and square to the end of the board. CUTTING THE PINS.

TAILS: STEP-BY-STEP After the pins are complete. cutting from the edges toward the first tail. they will i l l match them perfectly. This way. the last thing to do is remove the waste. use a chisel to clean up the tails. start with the dovetail saw and remove the waste sections for the pins at the top and bottom of the panel. use the same procedure as the waste between the tails. set the tail panel on the bench with the the tails. But this time. Now that the tails are marked on the inside face. This also helps remove any slight cupping that may be in the panel. So instead of using a ruler. CUTTING THE TAILS. I check each angle on the inside face. Adjust the bevel gauge to match the angle on the inside face. see Step 6. So I usually start more toward the waste side of the line. the first step is to inside face up. 5 To remove the waste for the pins at 6 both the top and bottom. use the saw. To do this accurately. you'll need to use the bevel gauge again. Here's where all that marking at the beginning really helps. the lines can be transferred around the panel to the outside face. 100 . Then slide the try square up to it. Now. Begin by clamping a backing board room to work as with the pins. it's time to work on the tails. These panels should be flush at the ends and the edges with both inside faces toward each other. saw at an angle and begin cutting. This means starting the cut is a little trickier. With all the kerfs cut. staying on the waste side of the line. 3 Now transfer the angles on the inside 4 face to the outside face. gled instead. They need to be cut to fit the pins. To be safe. hold the this angle to the outside face. panel using a sharp pencil. Drawing the straight lines across the ends of the panel is easy. see Steps 7-8. Now to remove the waste between the Now you can clean out the rest of the tails. to the panel and establishing a shoulder. I don't just draw the same angle I used to draw the pins. make sure the two panels are To lay out the tails from the pins. I mark the tails directly from the pins. workbench with the inside face up. adjust the bevel gauge if necessary. and then transfer To form the sides of the tails. And both panels should be oriented correctly. This time. see pencil.) This leaves me with more to clean up. 7 Remove half the waste. Then draw it on the outside face. Step 1. Cutting the tails is different than cutting the pins. There's nothing tricky here. If the saw cut didn't follow the line. draw parallel lines across the I clamp a piece of scrap to the panel with the ends. to extend the lines around the Shop Tip: To help the panel stand upright. REMOVING THE WASTE. Next. see Steps 34. Instead. But to transfer the angles to the outside face. Then set the pin panel on Then carefully trace the pins onto the tail set the tail panel on the top so mating edges align. but the tails are different. To lay out flush at both the end and the edges.when the kerf reaches the baseline. Then flip the 8 panel over and repeat the process. see Step 5. It's important that the corresponding corners match when laying out the tails. (Mark the waste sections on the tail pieces if you haven't done so yet. panel. Stop the saw isn't straight up and down — it's an. but the dovetails fit together without any gaps. Then clean up the shoulders with a chisel. I laid out the pins with a ruler and a pencil. position the pins before setting it on the tail panel. first LAYING OUT. Then clean up the cuts with a chisel. 26 Woodsmith No. There's just not quite as much pins. Then stand the pin panel on top so the I 2 two panels form a corner.

SANDING STICK. This way. see Fig. I can sand right into the corner. dovetail. you like those on the chest. the pins at the top and bottom can split from the pressure. see tle preparation. la. glue in— wedges and trim flush SECOND: Glue spline in kerf and trim flush No. 3. But This removes the wood pretty fast. see Fig. the tight spots will also be bur. you can add an auxiliary base to your router and rout The idea is to cut an even kerf through them flush. 2. the gap. see photo at right. possible). nished slightly. Basically. Then glue a spline in the GAPS BETWEEN DOVETAILS. the But don't force it. see the box on page 21. This can be baseline of the tails. When all the joints fit. you might have a gap between a tail and a pin (or sible gap you might run into: a gap along the between several tails and pins). ASSEMBLY. But to thin piece of scrap wood with some adhesee just where to remove this material. gaps. as on a drawer. 1. you'll need to get out deep. To make these areas easier Clamping up dovetails usually takes a litto see. You should be able to see where I usually apply glue just to the sides of the the joint is binding.) LI Use sharp chisel to carefully pare away material Apply pressure to tail panel only Notched clamping block distributes pressure evenly TROUBLESHOOTING It's a good feeling when those pins finally slide into the tails. but it's also easy to remove too much material. If you do. To fill baseline gap. see Fig. And when you pull the pins and tails. see Fig. you can distribute the clampNOTE: Scrap piece with adhesive-backed sandpaper on bottom side only Bevel edges to fit into corners ing pressure evenly across the joint with a special clamping block. It has a longer set-up time than With the joint dry assembled as much as yellow glue. see Fig. which helps with all the small possible. One common problem is when either the tails or pins stick out. There are a couple ways to fit the This isn't a problem with wide dovetails dovetails. There's another posmuch bigger problem.line since it's end grain. I don't bother gluing the basejoint apart. (This block also works when the clamp head is bigger than the tails. And if there's too much to sand off quickly.1 use white glue when assembling with a few light taps of a mallet. But this is easily corrected with a little sanding. GAPS AT BASELINE. But sometimes the joint isn't quite perfect PROTRUDING TAILS* PINS. but once again.sanding stick. the joint can be assembled. You only want to apply pres- sure to the tails (not the pins). 1. take a close look at each pin and faces that need to be glued. So I often use a little FITTING. this is a terial from either the tails or the pins. see page 30. The solution is to use wedges to fill the your hand saw. I bevel the joint should be dry assembled (as much as edges to match the angle of the tails. 2. case (or drawer) is ready to be assembled. see Fig. you need to do some fitting. the sive-backed sandpaper attached. For instance. Gaps are a kerf to "patch" it. To get the joint to fit. The goal is a fit that can be dry assembled see Fig. first.FITTING & ASSEMBLY At this point. CHISEL. many clamps. 100 Woodsmith 27 . Here the cut was too fixed. the photo at right. you're probably going to need to remove a little ma. 3. large cases. But if you don't have can pare it away with a chisel. To remove a lot of material. I like to mark them with a pencil.

Then lay out and cut the shape of the brackets at each end of the blank. Their main purpose is to support the shelf. T he nice thing about this shelf design is that it's just as easy to build three (or more) as it is to build one. (More on this later. Plus. see Fig. rout a bullnose profile on the front and curved edges.) To make the brackets (A). refer to the drawing below left. To build a single shelf. but I also designed them to hide the hanging hardware. 100 . Just use a V5" roundover bit in the router table with %" of the cutting edge exposed. see Fig. And there are only three parts: two brackets and a shelf. With the edges routed. Each requires about a board foot of lumber. You don't need a special router bit to do this. SHELF. I started with a blank 5" wide and 25" long. BRACKETS. With the blank cut to rough size. cut the brackets to final size. 3.W E E K E N D P R O J E C T Three Board Shelf This evening project makes use of a unique. there's a unique hanging system that's completely invisible. invisible hanging system. set the brackets aside and begin work on the shelf (B). now drill four counterbored holes for attaching the e rout bullnose profile on these edges Use long blank to cut two brackets Vi* squares 28 Woodsmith No. For now. 2. cut a blank to final width (4") but leave it long enough for NOTE: Do not both brackets. see Fig. start with the two curved brackets. 1 and the pattern below. Before cutting the brackets to length.

First.dia. SLOTS. (Or you can order them from the mail order source in the box on page 31. 3a. Then.1 did this with a Vi" straight bit in the router table. Then to finish the shelf. you need to rout a slot in the back of each bracket. And the nice thing is their tips are shaped like spade bits. 2. I wiped on a few coats of an oil finish. see Fig. see photo. Then on the front and ends of the shelf. These holes provide pockets for the hanging system to hook into. so you don't need to drill a pilot hole. These are measured from the center and are 16" apart. You can either screw them directly into the studs. Unfortunately. if you're going into drywall. So what do you do? I found that a couple drywall anchors hold the L-hooks well. 7. And to make this procedure safer with such a small workpiece. They slide into the slots in the brackets and then hook into the holes on the bottom of the shelf. there are just a couple things left to do to the shelf. With the slots cut. 4. Okay. see Figs. but there's still one more thing to do. now it's time to hang the shelf. Then I clamped a scrap block to the fence to act as a stop. ^Ki|M||^u|H^|taHBH| No. This shelf hangs on a couple common L-hooks. see Fig. Now. the shelf can be screwed together. 6. cut a gentle curve on each end. they don't provide enough holding power when screwed directly into drywall. see Fig. 3 and 3a. The shelf and the brackets are about ready to be screwed together. 5. ASSEMBLY. see Fig. I added an auxiliary base to cover the large opening in the table. x %" cteep A>o/e Router fence ~\ \ \ "~ J^V] NOTE: Strike 12" radius from center of shelf NOTE: Raise bit to cut through auxiliary base Rout slot in multiple passes brackets. To hide the hanging hardware. Or. But this will really limit where you can position the shelves on the wall. see the box at right. flip the shelf over and drill a couple holes in the bottom of the shelf. Drywall anchors are made from metal or plastic and are available at hardware stores. you can use drywall anchors.) Note: These anchors won't work in plaster (or a stud). see Fig. x W deep counterbore dia. Plug the holes with short pieces of %" dowel and trim them flush. 100 Woodsmith 29 . HANGING SYSTEM. Q <& r————* <"-diameter dowel Fh woodscrew #8x1'/4" 9 FIRST: Position bracket over L-hooks SECOND: Trim dowel flush to shelf Press down to lock L-hook SELF-DRILLING DRYWALL ANCHORS The L-hooks used to hang these shelves can be screwed into a wall stud. There are at least a couple ways to secure the L-hooks into the wall. rout a bullnose profile just like the one on the brackets. see Fig.

adjust the bit see Fig. It keeps all the easy to build the jig. But if the pins and tails are cut a little long. 3. it's waste just yet. Start with pieces of the guide block posithe guide block. 2. see Fig.) The jig consists of two pieces. This works fine when there isn't much material to remove. 2. 1. 1. And his jig helps keep the saw aligned with the lay-out lines when making the cuts. To use the jig. dovetail chest on page 18. clamp it to the GUIDE end of the workpiece and start on the pins. Pin stands proud of workpiece J A straight bit in a router will trim the pins or tails flush Feed the router slowly when trimming the pins or tails 11" 30 Woodsmith No. tra long (mine was 11"). But first you have to replace the existing router base with a different one. But don't cut off the for the drawer on page 11). see Fig. cutting the pins. see Fig. the sides for cutting the tails. All you need is a straight bit and your router. (Refer to page 24 for more on laying out dovetails. Except this time. There's a block to guide the saw. The rabbet provides height so it trims the pins or tails the clearance needed so the bit flush. You cut the tails the same way. Both tioned correctly on the clampthe sides and kerfs use the same ing bar until the glue dries. refer to page 24. see Fig. BLOCK #8x1VSFh guide saw when cutting pins Use kerfs to Waste woodscrew GUIDE BLOClC\ END VIEW CLAMPING BAR i '- Angle ofj dovetail t Remove waste from guide block after the glue dries TRIMMING DOVETAILS • On page 21 we show a tip fortrimming dovetails flush with a belt sander. there's a quicker way to do the same thing. The block is beveled on To use the jig. and 9° see Fig. angle. To solve this problem. 3. And for This auxiliary base is simply added control. To raise the router up so it doesn't make the base stable. wide rabbet cut on the bottom. see Fig. California. I made an auxiliary base to can reach the pins and tails. We were just getting started on the dovetail chest. Once you've decided on the Then glue and screw the dovetail angle (I used 14° for the guide block to the clamping bar. it's cut exhit the dovetails. The only thing critical here is to make sure the saw blade stays tight against the guide block on the jig.SOME TIPS F R O M OUR SHOP Shop Notes DOVETAIL JIG • The timing couldn't have been better for receiving a dovetail jig design from Jeffrey Kern of Benicia. 100 . there's a block at 3 a /4"-thick piece of stock with a one end for a handle. and a clamping bar to hold the And has two angled kerfs for jig in place. 4. That's because the edge of a regular base runs into the pins or tails before the bit can get near enough to trim them flush. For more on cutting dovetails. you'll use the bevel on the side of the block to guide the saw.

The body is round.$19. Behkol. This kit includes all the hardware you'll need to build the bench (listed in the Supplies box on page 7). CLASSIC WORKBENCH A complete hardware kit for the workbench. Another type bench top. (These are also they're less likely to nick your the lid..95 SHELLAC holes drilled in the top of your WONDER DOG. from 7 AM to 7 PM Central Time. except woodworking vise. see right photo. You don't you might want to consider is need to use a vise with this dog. actually an old one: a holdfast.. Before calling.. It's used with a see sources below.... Vise accessories. Shettac flakes.. or Discover Card ready. Behkol Woodworker's Supply • Finishing Forum • Back Issue Indexes for Woodsmith & ShopNotes • For PC and Mac • FREE First Month To log on to WoodNet. W100-7100-100 Workbench Hardware Kit. Instead.. is available from Woodsmith Project Supplies. HOW TO ORDER To order a project kit from Woodsmith Project Supplies.. Sources 1 for the vise and the hardware needed to mount the vise. Each is just another step in the purification process.. I used a brass chain see right photo below. 1 stop bit... Then call 1-515-245-9663. We also added a metal woodworking vise. garnet. But you'll need something to bench dogs are square. This simple holdfast Bench Dogs. Drywatt anchors If you have any questions. no parity. I buy shellac flakes and dissolve them with denatured alcohol in a glass jar.. • Project Plans to Download • Woodworking Forums MAIL ORDER SOURCES Similar hardware and supplies may be found in the following catalogs.. so you don't know how long it's been on the shelf.. so going to be opening and closing bench dogs.. W100-1301-618 Bench listed below. Unfortunately.. VISE. Besides the vise. The first accessory Dog. far. Dogs (One pair).) Each of these acCheck the sources below..bench is to add holdfasts and plies for some of the projects bench dogs.. W100-1301-600 The dovetail chest on page 18 Holdfast. They're and two screws.95 Note: Similar hardware is available from several woodworking catalogs listed in the mail order sources below. $55.. TRADITIONAL DOG..... Record vise. support that won't slam shut.. but the prevent the lid from opening too ones we're offering are round. top of your workbench. call the number below for more information on shipping charges and any applicable sales tax.. Lid supports Woodworker's Hardware 800-383-0130 Workbench hardware... Lid supports..... Woodsmith Proshown in this issue. For this. And shellac that's been dissolved in alcohol only has a shelf life of about a year. HOLDFAST...... Please call each company for a catalog or information. see below.. and ANSI terminal emulation. I used shellac... see the list below. use our Toll Free order line... but it also see left photo above.$24.. Mounting the 52VS ED requires: • (2) #14 x 2" Rh Woodscrews • (4) W x 3V£" Lag Screws • (4) ^" Flat Washers ACCESSORIES. Constantine's 800-223-8087 Record vise... 1-8OO-444-7527 Note: Prices subject to change after October. $9... Lid Supports 800-221-2942 Shellac flakes.. full duplex. If children are ing a holdfast and two types of made from solid brass. Vise accessories. I chose some easytraditional bench accessory is a to-install 3" no-mortise hinges. shown on page 6... This vise is available from the mail order sources listed below. to our workbench. so you workpiece to a bench. One way to im- Holdfast.. Lid supports The Woodworkers' Store 800-279-4441 Workbench hardware.. give us a call: 515-282-7000 M-F 9-5 CST No.. see the box on page 22.. orange..95 and it won't let up until you disDOVETAIL CHEST lodge it with a sideways tap. bench dog... 1995 800-645-9292 Vise accessories. These days. Supplies for ject Supplies is currently offer- these projects are also available at your local hardware store or through one of the mail order catalogs listed below. 100 Woodsmith 31 .. shellac is used mostly as a "stain blocker" that you can buy ready-to-use at many hardware and paint stores.. No^marttse hinges.) vise or a clamp.. Normally... Button lac is the darkest in color.. Wonder Dog. If you decide to buy shellac in flakes. Another For hinges. These bench dogs is a traditional clamp that can be (right) and Wonder Dog (left) used to secure a workpiece to the are modern tools for making your workbench mare useful..... and blonde...... WvdNet COMPUTER BULLETIN BOARD FOR WOODWORKERS It's open Monday through Friday.P R O J E C T S U P P L I E S Woodsmith Project Supplies prove the versatility of a workoffers hardware kits and sup.. (Ours can apply pressure just like a will secure stock up to 4" thick.. while the blonde is fairly clear. you'll also need some mounting hardware.95 doesn't require much hardware. there are a number of different grades to choose from: button lac. many manufacturers don't date the cans. I recommend using a lid available from the sources plane blades or chisels. If you would like to mail your order in. Mi-mortise hinges. of bench dog is the Wonder To finish the chest. refer to the photo on page 3. MasterCard. (For sources of shellac flakes. GarrettWade Woodcraft 800-225-1153 Workbench hardware... set your communication program to 8 data bits. please have your VISA.. Simply drive the head down to W100-1301-616 jamb the holdfast into the hole. No-mortise hinges..) Note: Behlens manufactures a product specifically for dissolving shellac called Behkol... It's one of has a 6"-long steel thread atthe simplest ways to secure a tached to a brass head. the Record 52V2 ED.. cessories fits into the 3/i"-dia.

laminated top. You can create a tight-fitting joint with our stepby-step instructions. 100 . Dovetail Chest Page 18 With its clean lines and hand-cut dovetails. 32 Woodsmith No. Classic Workbench Page 6 Not only does this bench feature a solid.A LAST LOOK Final Details Hand-CutDovetails Page 24 Cutting dovetails by hand isn't just for the experts. this pine chest will fit almost any room in your home. it also has an enclosed base to store a variety of tools and accessories.

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