La Dolce Vita

EMMA GALLAGHER ENJOYS THE EXQUISITE AND OPULENT SURROUNDINGS NORTHERN ITALY HAS TO OFFER

s Sirmione Castle in Lake Garda, which dates back to the 13th Century

visited Northern Italy for three days recently. When people think of Italy, cities such as Rome, Venice, Verona spring to mind. But theres so much more, nestled away from the main tourist destinations. It was my second time in the country. I had been to Rome and Florence two years ago with a college friend. They were equally enjoyable, although we hadnt factored into our plans the sizzling late July temperatures. In mid-March, the weather was much better than here, a balmy 20 degrees or so. Lake Garda was our first stop. Having heard so much about the exclusive region, I was delighted to finally be going there. It was everything I had imagined the views, the buildings, the people; they were exquisite. It was postcard perfect. One of the first things you see is the glamour everyone dresses to impress and carries it off. Although the summer season was awhile away, Sirmione, the place we were staying, was bustling. A historic, imposing castle stood overlooking the goings on. Clusters of people sat outside, eating Italys infamous gelato; every two doors there were shops offering the sweet treat. The easiest way to get from region to region around Lake Garda is by boat they dock regularly enough the roads are quite small and traffic congestion can be a problem. Across the lake, on a short boat trip, lies Desenzano, a small town with plenty of good restaurants and bars. As its a university town, mostly young Italians live here. Coincidentally, as somebody was eager to watch a GAA match, we headed for an Irish bar yes, even Lake Garda has those! Remarkably, The Fiddler of Dooney was owned by a Sligo man Michael Colleary, originally from Bellaghy, now living in Desenzano for 17 years. We stayed in the Hotel Continental for one night, its situated beside the Aquaria Thermal Centre and water from the lake is pumped directly into the picturesque spa. The lake itself measures 50km in length as

s Clockwise from above left: Emma Gallagher enjoying a motorboat tour of Sirmione, Lake Garda; a private island on Lake Iseo, owned by a wealthy developer family; rolling pasta dough at a family-run cookery school; the historic Peschiera Maraglio village on Lake Monte Isola, Europes largest lake island.
we wanted to see more of it, we took a motorboat tour the following day. It was fabulous. Our tour guide pointed out the lakes features; a ruined settlement from centuries ago, numerous private islands and even a surfing area where European championships are held the steep mountains toward the north provide suitable waves. That afternoon, we visited a local vineyard, Provenza. Here they make Lugana, and distribute it worldwide. Our informative guide, Aldo, detailed the process from the grape to the bottle. He shuddered about the UK and Irish wine markets, swelled with crap cheap Pinot Grigio, he was clearly not a fan! We were spending day two in Lake Iseo, an hour from Sirmione. Sulzano, a village overlooking the lake, was less populated. If you are looking for a quieter stay, this is ideal. We spent a few hours in Al Rocol, a quaint family-run vineyard and cookery school. Having never made pasta from scratch, this was a treat for me. Sitting outside in the late evening, I spotted a couple of Ferraris zip by. Day three had arrived, unfortunately, the last day. We met another tour guide, who showed us the sights of Lake Iseo, the largest lake island in Europe. Here, traditional trades are still a main part of the local economy, mostly boat and net manufacturing. Of course fish dominates much of the menus in this area, and lovers of the cuisine will be in food-heaven. The Italians are known for their leisurely evening meals... I spotted local school children at the table near us, even though it was later than 11pm! We stayed in Brescia, a city of 200,000 population, on the final night. It is perfect for leisurely strolls around the charming squares. Those interested in contemporary art should check out Santa Giulia Museum, which is situated on the grounds of a 3,000 year old monastery.

s Ryanair flies directly from Knock West airport to Milan Bergamo, at very reasonable prices.