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by Donald Olson

Germany For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http:// Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. . All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2007925980 ISBN: 978-0-470-08956-9 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the Author
Novelist, playwright, and travel writer Donald Olson is the author of the award-winning England For Dummies, London For Dummies, Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London, and Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria. Under the pen name Swan Adamson he has written the novels My Three Husbands — now translated into four languages — and Confessions of a Pregnant Princess (both published by Kensington, New York), as well as Memoirs Are Made of This (Hodder Headline, London). Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, National Geographic Books, and many other publications.

To Gary Larson, with thanks for his help in Germany and with life in general.

Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank RailEurope for its generous assistance.

Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Lindsay Conner, Production Editor; Amy Lyons, Development Editor Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Editorial Assistant: Melinda Quintero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard J. Pacifico Cover Photos: Front: Bavaria, Ramsau © Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Getty Images Back: © Frank Rothe/Getty Images Cartoons: Rich Tennant ( Composition Services Project Coordinator: Lynsey Osborn Layout and Graphics: Claudia Bell, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie D. Jumper, Melanee Prendergast Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: Aptara, David Faust, Cynthia Fields, Melanie Hoffman, Todd Lothery, Charles Spencer Indexer: Aptara

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a Glance
Introduction .......................................................1 Part I: Introducing Germany................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ....................................15 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..............................25 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ..............39

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ..............49
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................51 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ......................................................63 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ............................................71 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................82 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ......................90 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ......................99

Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........109
Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin ..................................................111 Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin........................................................139 Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North ................................................175 Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East....................................................................207

Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..........243
Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit ..........................245 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria................................................284 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights ....................................................311 Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers ................................................................337 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ................365 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros ..........385

Part V: The Part of Tens ..................................409
Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons......................411 Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ..............................415 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............420

Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................423 Index .............................................................433


........................................................................................................................143 Charlottenburg Attractions ..........................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber ...............................................................................................................................................351 Nuremberg.................235 Munich Neighborhoods .............................295 Füssen .......................................................................................................248 Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................211 The Zwinger........................................371 The Mosel Valley.................116 Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining ...........................................355 The Rhineland .............199 Saxony and Thuringia ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................27 Berlin Neighborhoods ...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................321 Baden-Baden .....................................................................................................................386 Frankfurt U-Bahn and S-Bahn ....................................................287 Würzburg ...................................275 The Romantic Road ............339 Stuttgart ...........................................................................195 Lübeck ............................................................307 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ............................................................291 Augsburg .............................................383 Frankfurt am Main ......................................................................................................................Maps at a Glance The Regions in Brief ............................................................369 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn ....................................................................................................................127 Tiergarten-Area Attractions ...................................................124 Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining .......................................................................................329 Heidelberg ...............................................................147 Potsdam .......254 Central Munich Attractions.................................................................................................................................................251 Central Munich Accommodations and Dining ....169 Hamburg ............................221 Leipzig ....................................................................................................................349 Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn..............................................................176 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn ....................................................................................315 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) ............................................................................................................................................................................225 Leipzig S-Bahn ............................................................271 The Residenz................................................................209 Dresden ..........................................................................................227 Weimar ........268 Deutsches Museum ....................................................................................367 Cologne ......................313 Lindau ...............145 Berlin-Mitte Attractions .........................................................................................391 ......................................303 Garmisch-Partenkirchen .........................181 Bremen.........................................................................................................................................................323 Freiburg ..................................................................................................................


.....................5 Part V: The Part of Tens ............................................................................................19 Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies.........25 Going Where You Want to Be.................26 Savoring southern Germany.............................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany .............................4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..................................................................................21 Movies .......................11 Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces...........6 Part I: Introducing Germany..................25 Discovering northern Germany ..................4 Part I: Introducing Germany .......13 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ..............................................................................30 Traveling during high and low seasons ..............6 Where to Go from Here........................................................15 The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History........10 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes..................Table of Contents Introduction ..............31 .......................28 Wending through western Germany.....................................................................................4 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .......................................11 Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities ...................................................9 Discovering the Best Big German Cities......25 Exploring eastern Germany .....................................3 Foolish Assumptions ...................30 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons ...................... and Ballet..................................................................................3 How This Book Is Organized..............................31 Watching those unpredictable skies ............................1 About This Book...........................15 Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture ....18 Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany ...............................................................................12 Enjoying the Best in Classical Music...............5 Icons Used in This Book....4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany .............................29 Scheduling Your Time...................................................................................23 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ...........................................21 Books (fiction and nonfiction) ......... Opera.......................2 Conventions Used in This Book ..............................

.........53 Sightseeing expenses .....................37 November .............................................................................36 September.....................................................................................................................................62 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany .............54 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun .................34 Perusing a Calendar of Events......63 Flying into Frankfurt ..........................35 January..............59 Toting traveler’s checks...........................................................37 October ....................................66 .....38 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ....................xii Germany For Dummies....................................................63 Flying into other German airports....................65 Booking your flight online ........................35 February.................................................................33 Glowing in autumn................36 August ...................................33 Welcoming winter .......49 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money .................................63 Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where ...........................................37 December......................39 Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week..........................................................................................................51 Planning Your Budget .39 East Side..............32 Shining (and raining) in summer ...............................................................60 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................51 Transportation costs..............................................................47 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany .......................................................................... 3rd Edition Blossoming in spring .......................................................................................................................................51 Lodging expenses ...........58 Using ATMs and carrying cash.............. West Side: Germany in Two Weeks ..........................................62 A Tip about Tipping ...........................................................................36 July......................45 Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers .........................61 Taking Taxes into Account..................................................................................................................................................35 May .......35 June................................59 Charging ahead with credit cards..............................................................41 Discovering Germany with Kids...............................57 Handling Money ......................................................................................64 Getting the best airfare ....................54 Shopping and nightlife costs .......................................................

..69 Locating airline and hotel packages.......................................................86 Surfing the Web for hotel deals.........80 Sailing through Germany: River Cruises ................76 Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe ........76 Touring by Car: Autobahns...........................................................80 Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? ...............................................................................69 Choosing a package tour ........71 Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go...........................................................86 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate.................................................................................................................90 Locating family-friendly businesses ..........................................................77 Taking the roads less traveled ......................................................................................................Table of Contents xiii Arriving by Other Means..................................................67 Traveling by train ............................................................85 Guesthouses ...........................................................92 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors ......79 Handling a roadside emergency........78 Following the rules of the road ............87 Reserving the best room....72 Heading to the Hauptbahnhof..................83 Luxury hotels .....................70 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ................................................................67 Joining an Escorted Tour ..........................80 Fill ’er up........................................................85 Pensions...........................................................................................68 Tour operators in the United States................ bitte (please)...............................................74 Getting off on the right track.....67 Arriving by boat ............91 Hiring a baby sitter in Germany...........................90 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families .....71 Weighing the Options: Train or Car? ........92 .............................................................77 Renting a car in Germany ....84 Chain hotels.........................................82 Finding the Place That’s Right for You .......................................................................................................72 Following basic training ..........................................................................84 Boutique hotels.......74 Reserving your seat.........................75 German rail passes: For Deutschland only............84 Smaller independent hotels.......................... and Benzin......................................89 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ................................................................ Tankstellen......75 Saving time and euros with rail passes...81 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ..

......................94 Locating resources ...........................................115 Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) .....................123 Runner-up hotels ....................................................................................106 Keeping Up with Airline Security ......................................................120 Going public: U-Bahn..........104 Using a cellphone outside the U....................S......................................................................................................97 Researching German lesbigay life on the Web .......98 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details......................................................................... S-Bahn..............................................................112 By plane ....113 Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof................ passport.........................................................130 ...122 Driving a car ................................................................ bus.....................................................................................97 Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany........................109 Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin.............................................111 Getting There........................................................................94 Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair).............100 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance ............................122 Staying in Style ......99 Applying for other passports ...........................119 Getting Around Berlin...................99 Getting a Passport....................... .......................112 By train.........115 Introducing western Berlin...................115 Orienting Yourself in Berlin .........99 Applying for a U.......................................................................................96 Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators.........................123 The top hotels .............................103 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail...................................................95 Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians .......107 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .....114 Finding Information After You Arrive ............................... 3rd Edition Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities .........120 Taking a taxi...................96 Celebrating gay pride in Germany ..........................................105 Going Wireless...............xiv Germany For Dummies................................ and Strassenbahn ..............................................................................113 By car ................S............................................................101 Staying Healthy When You Travel..............................104 Accessing the Internet away from home ..

.............................159 If you have two days in Berlin ...........................................182 Dining in Hamburg .....................................................170 Dining at Sanssouci.............163 Getting tickets ..........................................................Table of Contents Dining Out ...............................................179 Taking a bus tour ...............................................................................................139 Saving money with a museum pass.............141 Finding more cool things to see and do......168 Getting there..........................................................133 The best cafes ...............................................................................165 Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci ................................179 Orienting yourself ....................................................................162 Discovering Nightlife in Berlin............................179 Getting around Hamburg ..............................140 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z ...................172 Chapter 13: Hamburg...................................162 Finding out what’s happening ............ and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North....................................................................158 Boat tours .....................................................163 Checking out the dance clubs and bars.................................................................................132 The top restaurants............180 Staying in Hamburg ............175 Getting there...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................187 ................159 If you have three days in Berlin .....................................137 xv Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin ........................................159 Shopping for Local Treasures.184 Exploring Hamburg..........159 Shopping in western Berlin .....157 Walking tours............................................171 Fast Facts: Berlin ...........................178 Finding information .139 Sightseeing in Berlin ...........................................................................................158 If you have one day in Berlin.............175 Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World .................163 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music...............................................170 Discovering the top attractions .......................................................................................................................... Bremen..........................169 Finding tourist information ..........................................................................158 Following an Itinerary..160 Shopping in eastern Berlin .....................................157 Bus tours............................................................153 Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour..

............................................................................................................226 Staying in Leipzig .233 Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment.201 Staying in Lübeck..........................................................................................................................234 Staying in Weimar .....236 Exploring Weimar.............................................................................................................240 ............................................224 Finding information and taking a tour .............223 Getting there..................................................................210 Getting around Dresden...............194 Exploring Bremen ............................... Leipzig...................................226 Dining in Leipzig.............................................................................232 Discovering nightlife in Leipzig.......................................203 Chapter 14: Dresden............228 Exploring Leipzig ......................................194 Dining in Bremen.................................217 Shopping in Dresden .....191 A Side Trip: Bremen ..........237 Exploring the Thuringian Forest ................198 Getting there.......................................................................................................................................................................234 Dining in Weimar..................210 Orienting yourself ....201 Getting around Lübeck........207 Dresden: Florence on the Elbe ..............................196 Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own .....................................226 Getting around Leipzig .......207 Getting there........................................................233 Getting there................................................208 Finding information ...............................................................................234 Finding information and taking a tour ..................................214 Exploring Dresden ....222 Leipzig: City of Heroes.....194 Finding information and taking a tour ........................................................................... 3rd Edition Shopping in Hamburg............................................................................210 Seeing Dresden by guided tour .......194 Getting to Bremen....................191 Living it up after dark in Hamburg............................... and Weimar: Jewels of the East...229 Shopping in Leipzig ...................................212 Staying in Dresden ...............201 Dining in Lübeck ........200 Orienting yourself ..........................................................................................212 Dining in Dresden...................................................................................................................................200 Finding information and taking a walking tour .221 Discovering nightlife in Dresden....................................................................................202 Walking through Lübeck ..................................xvi Germany For Dummies..................................................................

.......282 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria ....................................290 Getting there.....................................................................................266 Sightseeing in Munich .........291 Finding information ..........................250 Catching a cab........................................................................................................246 By car .....241 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany.......................245 Getting There......................247 Getting Around Munich ............................................................................286 Staying in Würzburg ..................................................................................258 Dining Out ....................................................................281 Fast Facts: Munich ............................286 Finding information ...............................................................................................................................................................................................267 Finding more cool things to see and do......................286 Exploring Würzburg.....................252 The top hotels .............281 Checking out bars and clubs .241 Discovering nightlife in Weimar .......280 Discovering Nightlife in Munich.....................................................................288 Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg ........................................252 Staying in Style ......................................................................Table of Contents xvii Shopping in Weimar.........................................................................................259 The top restaurants....285 Würzburg: Franconian Fortress....................................................................................................................281 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music....................................................................................247 Orienting Yourself in Munich.........................284 The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria ...................250 Using public transportation ................................................................................................................................260 The best beer gardens ..................................................252 Runner-up hotels .................................247 Finding Information After You Arrive ...................................267 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .....285 Getting there.......................246 By plane ......278 Shopping for Local Treasures.........292 ..................................................243 Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit...................277 Seeing Munich by Guided Tour ......................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories ......................286 Dining in Würzburg.....................246 By train.........................................

................................................306 Ascending the Zugspitze....................294 Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance.......xviii Germany For Dummies.........................................................................293 Shopping in Rothenburg .296 Exploring Augsburg .........................................................................304 Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze.............................................................................311 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) .....................312 Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau ...318 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest).....322 Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books.........292 Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber .............302 Dining in Füssen ...........295 Finding information and taking a tour ........................................308 Discovering the local nightlife ..........................................294 Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg.....................299 Finding information and buying tickets .......297 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air .................294 Getting there...................................................296 Staying in Augsburg.............................................................305 Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen...............................304 Exploring Füssen.... 3rd Edition Staying in Rothenburg.................................................299 Exploring Neuschwanstein ......302 Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road ...............................299 Getting there......................................292 Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber........................................................................................................300 Dining near the castles.....................................................................311 Lindau: Sunny island charmer .............................305 Getting there................302 Staying in Füssen .............................306 Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen .............................328 ...............................................................320 Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town ........................................................305 Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen ...............................299 Exploring Hohenschwangau................................................309 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights..............................................308 A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles.................................................296 Dining in Augsburg ..............................................................................305 Finding information ...................................302 Finding information .....305 Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen......302 Getting there........................................................

.....................................................................337 Getting there.........................................366 Finding information ...................338 Orienting yourself ............................................356 Staying in Nuremberg ............................340 Staying in Heidelberg.. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers.357 Dining in Nuremberg ................356 Getting around Nuremberg................338 Taking a guided tour....353 Shopping in Stuttgart .............................................................354 Getting there.........................................................................................................................................354 Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth.................350 Dining in Stuttgart...........347 A Side Trip to Stuttgart...350 Stuttgart performing arts......................................................................................................................... Stuttgart.................................366 Getting there.....358 Exploring Nuremberg ......................................................348 Getting to Stuttgart..............363 Living it up after dark in Nuremberg .................................................375 Shopping in Cologne...................................................342 Exploring Heidelberg............................................................................................................................................................350 Finding information and taking a tour ..................347 Living it up after dark in Heidelberg...................................356 Orienting yourself ..340 Dining in Heidelberg ............Table of Contents xix Chapter 18: Heidelberg........................................................350 Exploring Stuttgart .......................368 Getting around ..365 Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine ..............360 Shopping in Nuremberg ...368 Getting oriented .......................................................368 Staying in Cologne ..................363 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ....................................372 Exploring Cologne..............................................................379 ..............................................379 Discovering nightlife in Cologne ............................................................................................................338 Finding information ............340 Getting around Heidelberg ................355 Finding information and taking a tour ..........................................................................344 Shopping in Heidelberg........................................370 Dining in Cologne....................................................................337 Heidelberg: Romance on the River ......................................................................................................................................................................

.................................. Beautiful Scenery .......................................................405 Having fun at a cabaret ...................406 Checking out bars and clubs .......................405 Discovering Nightlife in Frankfurt..............413 Time ..............................................403 Shopping for Local Treasures............................................................................................................................................................................................................................412 Days of the Week .............................397 Walking through the city............406 Fast Facts: Frankfurt .............................................381 Touring the valley by boat or car ...................................................................389 Finding Information After You Arrive .....................414 ..........................398 Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour ..409 Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons.........412 Numbers..........411 Accommodations ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................389 Getting Around Frankfurt.............................................403 Department stores.............................392 Dining Out ...389 By car ..................................................................403 Porcelain .......................................405 Raising the curtain on the performing arts .............385 Getting There........................................................382 Stopping in Cochem .............................394 Sightseeing in Frankfurt ........................388 By plane ....................................................................412 Colors ..................................................................................389 Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt...............................390 Using public transportation .......413 Seasons and Elements ..........................................................................388 By train............................397 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z ..................................................................................................................................................................................413 Transportation .... 3rd Edition The Mosel Valley: Great Wines..........xx Germany For Dummies...................................392 Staying in Style .....................................412 Entertainment and Attractions ..........407 Part V: The Part of Tens ..........................412 Directions..........................................413 Warning Signs ....................................................................................................390 Taking a taxi................................................................382 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros............411 Basic Words and Phrases................

..415 Der Kleine Prinz. Nuremberg ................................................................ Rothenburg ............... Baden-Baden..................................................................................422 Beerenauslese...........................415 Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa....................................................417 Hotel Eisenhut................................................................................................................................420 Qualitätswein...................................................................................429 Surfing the Net.................Table of Contents xxi Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ........................................423 Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites ........................ Dresden ............................................................................................................427 Major car-rental agencies operating in Germany.................. Berlin ................420 Tafelwein ..............419 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ..... Heidelberg .....................................416 Hotel Adlon Kempinski...................................................428 Major hotel chains in Germany................... Cologne.............422 Appendix: Quick Concierge ..............................................................................................421 Spätlese ...................................................................... Berlin .....................420 Deutscher Landwein ..417 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg .................427 Major airlines serving Germany...............421 Auslese ....................................421 Prädikatswein ......................................................................418 Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz..............................428 Where to Get More Information ...................................................421 Kabinett ................433 ..429 Contacting regional tourist boards .................416 Excelsior Hotel Ernst..420 Deutscher Tafelwein .........422 Eiswein .......................................................418 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München..........................418 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe......................................................................................................................422 Trockenbeerenauslese ...............................................................................................................417 Kempinski Hotel Bristol..........430 Index ..............................423 Fast Facts .............

xxii Germany For Dummies. 3rd Edition .

The sheer size of Cologne Cathedral. every crag in the Rhine Valley seems to have its own romantic legend — or carefully tended vineyard. and the Netherlands to the west and the Czech Republic and Poland to the east. or Leipzig. where Bach conducted? Do you want to stroll down Frankfurt’s . with Luxembourg. In the far north. Discovering the special regional differences within Germany will help to deepen your understanding and experiences of the country. regions. will dazzle your senses. In the southwest. In the north. the location of the country’s great ports. Dramatic regional differences exist in the German landscape. In the west. the exciting capital of a reunified republic? Elegant. too. Regional differences also extend to food and architecture. Belgium.Introduction S o you’re going to Germany. The sunny southwest is where you find the Bodensee. Wunderbar! But what parts of Deutschland (Germany) do you want to visit? Because of this country’s many offerings. the emphasis is on fresh seafood. you find a flat maritime landscape. one of the largest lakes in Europe. where the peaks are tipped with snow until May. and the forested hills of the scenic Schwarzwald (Black Forest). where Goethe lived. which shares a border with France. the largest church north of the Alps. the city where most Germans would live if they could? The great port city of Hamburg? The romantic university town of Heidelberg? Are there specific landscapes you want to see. France bounds Germany to the southwest. French cuisine is a major part of the dining scene. So what cities. Every city or region has its own version of sausage and its favorite local wines and beers. The sober brick architecture that predominates in the far north gives way to exuberant baroque churches and palaces in the south. Germany isn’t a huge country — on a superfast train you can buzz from Berlin in the north to Munich in the south in about seven hours — but exciting cities and scenic sightseeing possibilities pack the terrain. such as the Bavarian Alps or the Rhine Valley? Did you know that one of the most beautiful scenic drives in Europe is along Germany’s aptly named Romantic Road? What castles and cathedrals would you like to visit? The fairy-tale castles built by King Ludwig of Bavaria are the most famous and popular attractions in Germany. or specific attractions do you want to see? Berlin. near Germany’s coastline. Situated in the very heart of Europe. And how about other historic sites? Do you want to visit Weimar. Germany stretches from the Alps in the south to Denmark and the Baltic and North seas in the north. Drive or take the train a couple of hours east and you’re in the Bavarian Alps. answering that question isn’t always easy. fun-loving Munich.

From an enormous list of possibilities. purse. however. Together. I help you choose from among its many highlights to create the best trip for you. I chose only what I consider to be the best and most essential places for visitors. start at the first page and read all the way through to the end. I bypass places that are difficult to reach or of interest only to a scholar or specialist. Germany. the busiest shopping street in Germany? Are you interested in seeing eastern Germany now that the border is open between east and west? The eastern city of Dresden. Keep a close eye on your camera. In this book. after all. I exclude places that other. of course. you and Germany For Dummies can plan a wunderschöne Reise (wonderful journey). you’ll find information that you’ll want to reference as you plan or enjoy your trip — whether it be a new hotel. and wallet. Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time — and this is especially true of prices. Germany has so much that is really worth seeing that you don’t need to waste your time with the second-rate. has an embarrassment of riches. You can. if you’ve already been to Germany and know the basics of international travel. 3rd Edition Zeil. you can flip to the specific part you need or hone in on one specific chapter. About This Book This is a selective guidebook to Germany. Therefore. this guidebook is for you.2 Germany For Dummies. or the boring. or a musttry walking tour. is one of the great art cities of Europe. editors. and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. The author. I suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. But. Use Germany For Dummies as a reference guide. a must-see attraction. the overrated. Dummies Post-it® Flags As you’re reading this book. If you’re new to this part of the world. In this guide. so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. as you can see. Your safety is important to us. Mark these pages with the handy Post-it® Flags that are included in this book to help make your trip planning easier! . more exhaustive guidebooks routinely include.

. including: ߜ You may be an experienced traveler who hasn’t had much time to explore Germany and wants expert advice when you finally do get a chance to enjoy that particular locale. The use of symbols and abbreviations is kept to a minimum. The exchange rate used throughout is 1€ = $1. I’m happy to report that the user-friendly Germany For Dummies is not like that.Introduction 3 Conventions Used in This Book I recently tried to extract some information from a guidebook and felt that I needed training in hieroglyphics to interpret all the different symbols. I employ a system of dollar signs ($) to show a range of costs for one night in a hotel (double room. I include abbreviations for commonly accepted credit cards. Check out the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ Hotel $125 and less $126 to $175 $176 to $225 $226 and more Restaurant $20 and less $21 to $30 $31 to $40 $41 and more Prices in this guide for hotels. the currency that replaced the Deutsche Mark in 2002. year-round) or a meal at a restaurant (appetizer. If the word is one that you may be using.25. and dessert). entree. restaurants. In addition to giving you exact prices. Take a look at the following list for an explanation of each: AE: American Express DC: Diners Club DISC: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa I also include some general pricing information to help you decide where to unpack your bags or dine on the local cuisine. and services are given in euros (€). I also provide a phonetic pronunciation. followed by an English translation. Foolish Assumptions I make some assumptions about you. I first give the name of a sight in German. lieber Leser (dear reader). and then converted into dollars. attractions.

Part I: Introducing Germany This first part introduces Germany and gives you some excellent reasons for going there. Along with providing a basic orientation. say. or attraction. I point out the best hotels and restaurants and the top attractions to the . and present you with some possible itineraries. The individual chapters help you decide when to visit and what to see. 3rd Edition ߜ You may be an inexperienced traveler (but you’re definitely not a Dummkopf) who is looking for guidance when determining whether to take a trip to Germany and how to plan for it. This overview gives you the big picture. you’re looking for a book that focuses on the places that will give you the best or most unique experience in Germany. gay and lesbian travelers. I help you to understand and deepen your knowledge of the culture. travelers with disabilities. and explain the kinds of guided tours that are available. If you fit any of these criteria. Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany This part helps take some of the wrinkles out of the trip-planning stage. rental car) to use to get around the country and explains what kind of accommodations you can expect for your money. is contained in this part. tell you about German food. then Germany For Dummies gives you the information you’re looking for! How This Book Is Organized The book is broken down into five parts. I provide special tips for Germany-bound travelers who may have special needs or interests: families. and Jewish travelers. ߜ You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available about Germany or that lists every hotel. and suggestions that can help you map out a wonderful holiday. or the Romantic Road — you can turn right to that part. advice. Instead.4 Germany For Dummies. wine. The first two parts deal with trip planning and organization. they provide information. and beer. I talk about handling money and give you some sound advice on planning a realistic budget. Germany’s capital and most exciting city. provide a calendar of events. from passports to buying medical insurance. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany All you need to know about Berlin. This part helps you to decide what form of transportation (train. I also deal with pretrip loose ends. seniors. lay out your options for airlines and how to get the best airfares and book money-saving package tours. The next two parts of the book are devoted to the major sights and cities within northern and eastern Germany and western and southern Germany. restaurant. so if you want to zero in on a specific city or area — Munich. All of the parts can be read independently.

I cover three important cities in southwestern Germany: Heidelberg. and down the equally picturesque Mosel River. I also include a description of the memorial at Buchenwald concentration camp near Weimar and an overview of touring options in the Thuringian Forest. one of Germany’s principal winegrowing areas. bordering on the North Sea and the Baltic. to the lively Rhine-side city of Cologne. .” as Frankfurt is known. I also introduce you to the Bavarian towns of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. from the mighty harbor to the lurid Reeperbahn (where uncoverage may better describe the sights). and Nuremberg. King Ludwig of Bavaria’s fairytale castle in the Bavarian Alps. these remarkable showcases of art and culture are now “open for business. with its castles and vineyards. with the busiest international airport in Germany. Leipzig. with its world-famous cathedral and array of first-class museums. The next chapter goes beyond Munich but stays in Bavaria.” I tell you how to take a boat trip from Dresden into a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland. In this part. gets a chapter of its own.Introduction 5 east and west and all around this remarkable city. Stuttgart. Here I describe the principal cities and attractions found along the Romantic Road. and ten things to know about German wine. including the palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam. You find plenty to see and enjoy in “Mainhattan. another castle-fantasy of King Ludwig. ten great hotels. and Bremen. Northern Germany. I also visit the great eastern German cities of Dresden. plus a selection of great hotels and special restaurants. I hit the Hamburg highlights. topics. gets a big chapter of its own. From the southwest I head farther north. and Weimar. with the oldest university in Germany and the brooding ruins of a mighty castle. and sights I want you to know about. Frankfurt. Germany’s “secret capital” and most popular big city. a picturesque city of Gothic church spires and ancient brick buildings. the region’s cultural capital. Staying south but moving west. Difficult to visit during the Communist years. with an additional side trip to Linderhof. Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Munich. I also include an easy trip to Nymphenburg Palace and the moving memorial at Dachau. Sidetrip options from Cologne include boat rides down the mighty Rhine. My “tens” include ten lessons on the German language. one of Germany’s most attractive cities. Germany’s largest port city. from designer skyscrapers and great museums to distinctive applewine taverns. a bustling city that offers an array of historic sights. is also where you find Hamburg. and what to see. how to get around. Part V: The Part of Tens The Part of Tens enables me to focus a little more attention on extraspecial places. Then I tell you about side-trip options from Hamburg: Lübeck. a scenic driving tour that begins in Würzburg and ends at Neuschwanstein. I provide information on how to get there.

too. You see this icon every time I tell you about something that can save you cash. of course! How you want to use this guide is up to you. You can start at the beginning and read the book straight through to the end. If you do see one. which is sure to be wunderbar. The Best of the Best icon highlights the best the destination has to offer in all categories — hotels. like how the telephone system works and what numbers to call in an emergency. as well as resources for locating additional information on specific cities or areas. restaurants. In this appendix. little pictures that point out helpful trip-planning details or items that are just for fun. 3rd Edition Easily found on the yellow pages at the back of this book is a Quick Concierge Appendix with an A-to-Z list of fast facts. car-rental agencies. Or you can start anywhere in between and extract information as you want or need it. This icon points out tidbits about German culture. you also find a list of toll-free telephone numbers and Web sites for airlines. and places of special interest. All this is followed by a few helpful worksheets to help make your trip planning easier. and hotel chains serving Germany. so you won’t find too many of these icons. Bargain Alert is my favorite icon. you find six different icons. . I want you to be aware of something such as a scam that can cost you money. and I suspect it may be yours. I’m not an alarmist. A Tip icon alerts you to something that you may not otherwise consider or even know about. Icons Used in This Book In the margins. The Tip icon highlights useful bits of information that can save you time or enhance your travel experience. or attractions that welcome children or that kids actually enjoy. Where to Go from Here To Germany. which points out hotels. personalities. I’m not cheap. restaurants. I hope you’ll think of me as your guide or companion on this journey to Germany. Traveling with children? Keep your eyes peeled for this icon. attractions. or a hazardous situation. and nightlife. but I love to save money. activities. shopping.6 Germany For Dummies.

Part I Introducing Germany .

. and the most interesting attractions. Chapter 1 introduces you to the best Germany has to offer — the most exciting cities. In Chapter 3. Chapter 2 helps you to understand the country and its culture by giving an overview of its history. . an introduction to its architecture and cuisine. I present four possible itineraries for visitors who want to sample a wide range of sights.W In this part . I tell you more about the places included in the book and discuss scheduling your trip so you can decide where and when to go. In Chapter 4. the most scenic landscapes. here to begin? This part lays the groundwork for your trip to Germany. and a list of recommended books and movies. .

too. and Heidelberg. the main squares in Germany’s smaller cities glitter and glow with the lights. food. and an opera house. In the categories that I outline. This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the “Best of the Best” — that Germany has to offer. making a visit to Germany a feast for those who enjoy world-class art and music. and moods appeals to visitors for many different reasons. cake. During the Christmas season. Or perhaps you have an image of Germany in your mind — a castle on a hilltop. and ballet G ermany holds a special fascination for travelers. by the thousands. will find that the club/bar/disco scene in Germany is hot. You’ll find as many different reasons to visit Germany as there are tourists who arrive daily. Clubbers. or a giant beer hall with an oom-pah-pah band — and you want to check it out for yourself. and Cologne. a palace in a landscaped garden. Leipzig. and you want to explore their home turf. Munich. This land of contrasting cities. not only in large cities like Berlin and Munich but also in smaller university towns like Cologne. Then there’s the culture: Every midsize-to-large German city has at least one art museum. I discuss each of these places . have German ancestors. Munich. Some visitors come for the chance to drink fullbodied German beer. and gift stalls of Christmas markets. like millions of others. and conversation are afternoon staples. Perhaps you. you’ll find some of the things that make traveling in Germany such a fascinating experience. at the airports in Frankfurt. or Berlin.Chapter 1 Discovering the Best of Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Experiencing the greatest cities ᮣ Exploring romantic landscapes ᮣ Discovering legendary castles and palaces ᮣ Visiting smaller towns and cities ᮣ Enjoying world-class classical music. Hamburg. a symphony orchestra. And don’t forget the retail: Great shopping opportunities abound year-round in Berlin. a tradition that dates back hundreds of years. landscapes. others come to enjoy a cosmopolitan cafe culture where coffee. opera.

and plenty of picturesque corners just waiting to be discovered. yields plenty of pleasant surprises. Germany’s largest city and new capital has become an international superstar. ߜ With its endlessly dramatic history and cache of cultural and artistic riches. with countless cultural diversions and a kind of urban magic that snares the hearts of millions of visitors each year. the Kurfürstendamm and Unter den Linden. you can find them in their indicated chapters. ߜ Frankfurt (Chapter 20). enormous parks and green spaces. cuisine of all kinds. But since 1989. the riches of the Green Vault. The old capital of Saxony is where you find the worldfamous Zwinger palace/museum complex. marked with — what else? — a “Best of the Best” icon. music. and plenty of nightlife. And thanks to Germany’s excellent public-transportation systems. bustling pedestrian-only quarters. fascinating architecture. Germany’s third-largest city after Berlin and Munich. The pulse of Berlin is felt throughout Europe. ߜ Dresden (Chapter 14) reigns as the treasure house of eastern Germany. The “Queen of the North” presides over a beautiful setting on the Alster Lake but is notorious for her erotically charged entertainment district called the Reeperbahn. You’ll find world-class museums. too. including a fine lineup of museums and great shopping on Germany’s busiest shopping street. ߜ Munich (Chapter 15) is a southern German city where the urban pleasures are as soft and sweet as Schlagsahne (whipped cream) on a rich slab of cake or as exuberant as an oom-pah-pah band in a giant beer hall during Oktoberfest. as simple or as sophisticated as you want. streetcar. you can easily reach it all by subway. ߜ Cologne (Chapter 19).10 Part I: Introducing Germany and experiences in detail later in this book. and fun-loving. and its vibrant contemporaryarts scene gives it a hefty dose of sophistication. with its bevy of designer skyscrapers. first-rate museums. when the wall separating East Germany and West Germany came down. or bus. The capital of Bavaria is sensuous. Berlin (Chapters 11 and 12) always has a major-league buzz. is one of the most attractive and intriguing cities in western Germany. and the reconstructed Frauenkirche. with its soaring cathedral. Cologne’s carnival is the biggest and brashest in the country. ߜ Hamburg (Chapter 13). and Rhine-side setting. you’ll feel it. and when you’re walking down Berlin’s two most famous avenues. . riverside promenades. sophisticated. great shopping. Germany’s most amazing architectural reconstruction effort. the Zeil. Discovering the Best Big German Cities Germany’s top cities offer a wealth of diversions. has the liveliness and lustiness of a big port and the sophistication of a wealthy European metropolis. You’ll also find elegant boulevards.

The country’s highest mountain. and vast estates. hiking trails. medieval castles. both great and small. towers above the alpine resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Chapter 16). Roman ruins. From the majesty of the Bavarian Alps in the south to the sandy beaches of the Baltic Sea in the north. is like a northern extension of Italy. offering a remarkable medley of small medieval towns set within a gorgeous Bavarian landscape of river valley and mountain meadow.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 11 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes Landscapes of fabled beauty and scenic splendor are found throughout Germany. an enormous lake near Germany’s sunny southwestern border. the Rhine Valley (Chapter 19). ߜ The Romantic Road (Chapter 16) is the most romantic byway of all. ruled over by an assortment of kings. Germany offers a wealth of sightseeing possibilities. Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces At one time. duchies. and views of them are accessible by train. where rocky cliffs rise dramatically above the Elbe River. ߜ Perhaps the most dramatic of all German landscapes is the Bavarian Alps. and scenic lookouts. west of Mainz and Wiesbaden. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. sheltered slopes.000 years. and all of them open to the public. ߜ Sophisticated health spas and recreational activities abound in the forest-clad mountains of the Black Forest (Chapter 17). boat. ߜ The Rheingau wine district (Chapter 19). and prince-bishops. ߜ Cruises down the mighty River Rhine (Chapter 19) take you past castle-crowned crags and legendary sights. where you find lakes. has been a wine-producing region for upwards of 2. between Trier and Koblenz. ߜ The Bodensee (Chapter 17). ߜ From Dresden you can easily explore a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland (Chapter 14). ߜ With its fruit trees and vineyards growing on sunny. is like a bit of the Mediterranean. from Koblenz south to Alsace. and from the winegrowing Rhine Valley in the west to the high. rocky cliffs along the Elbe in the east. As a result. found along a lovely 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine. princes. ߜ The Mosel Valley (Chapter 19). and car. the Zugspitze. with semitropical gardens and an almost Italian languor. Germany was a conglomeration of regional kingdoms. many of them full of art treasures. dukes. such as Lorelei rock. . Germany is loaded with a fascinating collection of castles and palaces. is a scenic winegrowing region encompassing thousands of acres of vineyards.

many of them located less than an hour’s train ride from a major metropolis. So many architectural gems are located here that the entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a place judged . Brimming with the flavors of the past. the amazing Zwinger Palace in Dresden (Chapter 14) is now an unparalleled showcase for old master paintings and porcelain treasures. porcelains. nothing can compare to the fairy-tale castles built in the 19th century by Ludwig II of Bavaria. in part. you’ll find a very different Germany. featuring brilliant Renaissance-era woodcarvings by Tilman Riemenschneider. is remarkable. right in the heart of the city (see Chapter 15 for both). Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities Germany is remarkable for its attractive smaller towns and cities. ߜ Nymphenburg Palace on the outskirts of Munich is another kingsize showplace and so is the gigantic Residenz. and furniture. In these historic hamlets. ߜ An easy daytrip from Hamburg. ߜ For sheer. the quintessential image associated with Germany is a castle on a hilltop. ߜ A palace that doubled as a fortress. these stately homes reveal aspects of German life and the monarchy that lasted up until 1918. ߜ For many visitors. the Marienburg crowns the vineyard-covered slopes above Würzburg and today houses the Mainfränkische Museum (Chapter 16). scattered like gemstones around the country. You can easily visit Sanssouci and its beautiful grounds on a daytrip from Berlin. ߜ Perched on its crag high above Heidelberg. but it remains an impressive sight even in its semiruined state. ߜ Used by the powerful prince-bishops until 1806. over-the-top opulence. Heidelberg Castle (Chapter 18) suffered from war and fire. Frederick the Great’s 18th-century rococo palace in Potsdam. indeed. find castles scattered throughout the country. You do. Neuschwanstein and Linderhof (see Chapter 16 for both) are preserved almost exactly as they were during Ludwig’s lifetime. lovely Lübeck (Chapter 13) epitomizes the maritime culture and redbrick architecture of northern Germany. Ruined castles dot the landscape of the Rhine (Chapter 19) and enhance its romantic appeal. you can easily savor them as daytrips.12 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to several museums and staterooms that can be visited on guided tours. ߜ Sanssouci (Chapter 12). ߜ Carefully reconstructed after WWII. With their precious paintings. because it suffered almost no damage during World War II (WWII). the Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) is famed for its superb ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo.

You can walk along the old city walls of this perfectly preserved gem and stroll down streets that haven’t changed much in hundreds of years. ߜ Stuttgart (Chapter 18). Füssen (Chapter 16) invites you to stroll along its cobblestone streets past stone houses and a rushing mountain river. This small. Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) offers an extraordinary range of spa treatments during the day and elegant gaming rooms at night. and Ballet Lovers of classical music. a marvelous little island-city in the Bodensee (Lake Constance). ߜ One of the most sophisticated spa towns in Europe. ߜ Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Chapter 16). unspoiled hamlet was home to Goethe and Schiller. according to the United Nations agency that promotes education and the arts. a 40-minute train ride from Heidelberg. ߜ Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is an important center of the German Renaissance that later became an infamous locale for huge. Opera. in eastern Germany. is a walled medieval city loaded with picturesque charm. one of the most attractive midsize German cities. has a sunny. Enjoying the Best in Classical Music. among others. was a cradle of the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. opera. an old university town on the Neckar River. flower-filled charm that’s perfect for lazing away a day or two. Augsburg (Chapter 16) is full of historic panache and architectural surprises. and provides a glimpse into 18th-century German life and culture. with major art collections. Remnants and reminders from both eras are plentiful in Nuremberg. a major highlight along the Romantic Road. ߜ A stop on the Romantic Road or an easy daytrip from Munich.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 13 to be of exceptional cultural value. enchants visitors with its romantic setting. ߜ Located in the Bavarian Alps near Neuschwanstein Castle. and the second-largest beer festival after Munich. Tickets for musical events. including Renaissance-era palaces and the oldest almshouse in Germany. historic streets. ߜ Lindau (Chapter 17). including grand opera. ߜ Heidelberg (Chapter 18). and enormous castle. . The garden-island of Mainau is a short ferry ride away. are reasonably priced. ߜ Weimar (Chapter 14). and ballet will find that Germany is a gold mine. intriguing architecture. and the quality of musical performance is extraordinarily high. Naziera rallies. is the arts and culture capital of southwestern Germany.

and three highly-regarded orchestras. one of the great cultural centers of Germany. conducted by Sir Simon Rattle. while the magnificent Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra) performs in the Philharmonic Hall. the Rhineland’s leading opera house. . but the company still performs at the State Theater. one of the world’s great opera houses. ߜ Up north. and so does the Staatsoper (State Opera). and two fine orchestras — the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker (Cologne Philharmonic) and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra) — perform in the Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. the Hamburg Ballet. or hearing a concert by the Dresden Philharmonic.14 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to three major symphony orchestras. including the famed Berlin Philharmonic. the brilliant Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) shares the National Theater stage with its ballet company. ߜ In Munich (Chapter 15). Cranko is gone. Leipzig celebrates its most famous citizen — the composer Johann Sebastian Bach. Cologne (Chapter 19) has an amazing array of musical offerings. ߜ The Stuttgart Ballet in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) hit international stardom in the 1970s when John Cranko took over the company. ߜ For a city of its size. ߜ A visit to Dresden (Chapter 14) can be made even more memorable by an evening at the Semperoper (Semper Opera House). who lived and worked in the city for more than 40 years — with the yearly Bachfest. Major artists appear at the Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). Hamburg (Chapter 13) plays host to the Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). ߜ Opera Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt gives a big musical boost to Frankfurt (Chapter 20). and three opera houses that share their stages with resident ballet companies. ߜ The city of Leipzig (Chapter 14) is home to the world-renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra and the acclaimed Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera). as does the Frankfurt Philharmonic.

The following list highlights the main trends in German history: ߜ Early history: Prehistoric humans hunted in the Rhine and Neckar valleys of present-day Germany. I distill the essence of Germany’s complicated and tumultuous past so you can get a clear. By the first century A. The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History Germany’s long and tumultuous history remains clouded by the horrors of World War II (WWII)..Chapter 2 Digging Deeper into Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Perusing the main events in Germany’s history ᮣ Recognizing Germany’s architectural heritage ᮣ Discovering German food. quick sense of the major epochs.D. and wine ᮣ Finding books and movies about Germany T his chapter helps you find out more about Germany and deepens your experience of the country. . 400. with garrisons established at Cologne (Chapter 19). Koblenz. the Roman sphere of influence extended well into the borders of present-day Germany. Charlemagne (Karl der Grosse. 768–814) was responsible for the earliest large-scale attempt to unite the lands of Germany under one ruler. Following the Roman withdrawal from Germany in A. whet your appetite with a primer on German food and drink. How a civilized European nation slipped into the state of barbaric inhumanity that existed during Nazism’s rise and WWII is a question that continues to occupy historians and survivors and haunt the Germans themselves.D. beer. I highlight the main architectural trends. and recommend some excellent books and movies about Germany. and Trier. the empire of the Franks represented the transition from a loose conglomeration of German tribes into what eventually would become the German Empire. Mainz.

16 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ The Middle Ages: The power struggles and invasions of the Middle Ages continually disrupted the unity hammered out by Charlemagne. the works of German artists. An upswing in international commerce from the 11th to 13th centuries led to the foundation of “Free Imperial Cities” like Hamburg and Lübeck (see Chapter 13 for both). and philosophers ushered in the Age of Enlightenment. and Napoleon: The 16th century was a time of social unrest and religious upheaval throughout Germany. Prussian. the so-called Weimar government (1919–1934) represented a break in dominant traditions of German history. The question of independence and national unity finally came to a head in the 1848 revolution. After defeating the Austrian and Prussian armies. writers. Bismarck succeeded in winning over southern German states and. while fighting on the western front ultimately led to German defeat and the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II. . it resulted in severe food shortages throughout the country and intensified political unrest. and his work had far-reaching implications. the Great War (1914–1918) represented a German attempt to dominate Europe. and Russian armies fought the French emperor in Leipzig. In 1813. pitting the Protestant north against the Catholic south and affecting the whole of Europe. Because of the weakness of central authority. Austrian. Prussian statesman Otto von Bismarck (1815–1898) advocated consolidation of the German people under Prussian leadership. the Catholic Church launched a Counter-Reformation that culminated in the bloody Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). the Enlightenment. Although the war wasn’t fought on German soil. Residual issues from war and hostility from conservative groups conflicted with reformist and radical impulses of the left and cultural avant-garde. various German tribal duchies sought to build their own autonomy. When that effort failed. After triumphs in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871). ߜ World War I and Weimar: For many observers. which was followed by the decisive Battle of Waterloo.” Berlin — capital of the republic — blossomed into Germany’s economic and cultural center. Napoleon occupied several German cities and abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. Martin Luther (1483–1546) battled against the excesses of the Catholic Church. in 1871. During the “Golden Twenties. In its attempt to establish a democratic and republican government. ߜ The Reformation. During this period. composers. the Austrian Hapsburg monarchy reimposed its sovereignty over Prussia and other parts of Germany. Military conflict on the eastern front resulted in the defeat of Russia. As Protestant Reformation spread. Germany remained a collection of small principalities and free cities. Under Frederick the Great (Friedrich der Grosse. became first chancellor of the German Empire (Reich). and until the demise of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. Prussia gained status as a great European power. ߜ Revolution and the Reich: Following Napoleon’s defeat. the country’s military and political rulers were determined to return to a system of absolute monarchy. 1740–1786).

and other groups that were murdered by the National Socialists between 1933 and 1945. The Soviet blockade of West Berlin resulted in the Anglo-American Berlin airlift. fled the country to escape persecution. At the end of the war. Millions of Jews and other “undesirable” minorities throughout Germany and the rest of Nazi-occupied Europe were systematically exterminated in one of the most horrifying chapters in world history. ߜ Germany reunited: The opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989 marked for East Germany the culmination of a wave of previously . The Federal Republic of Germany in the western half of the country had its capital in Bonn. in German). As the brutal anti-Semitic political agenda of Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) became apparent. and Dachau (Chapter 15). with its major cities in smoldering ruins. economic. In 1961. ߜ The two Germanys: Intending at first to govern conquered Germany as one unit. the site of Nazi-architect Albert Speer’s enormous Congress Hall has been reclaimed as the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Rally Grounds Documentation Center) with a brilliantly informative exhibit that chronicles the rise and fall of the National Socialists. Germany’s Jewish past is the subject of Berlin’s remarkable Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). the most comprehensive of its kind. and social systems. and imperialistic attitudes also provided a ripe environment for the National Socialist Party to take control. Germany ceased to exist as an independent state. gays. In Nuremberg (Chapter 18). thousands of German Jews. sealing off East Berlin from West Berlin. West German recovery got underway with U. and politicians. but old authoritarian. Berlin (Chapter 12) is particularly rich in memorials commemorating the hundreds of thousands of Jews. scientists. Two Germanys developed with highly different political. northwest of Munich. Gypsies (Sinta.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 17 Remembering the Nazi-era past Germany’s Nazi-era past and the enormity of crimes committed during World War II are facts that can’t be glossed over or overlooked. near the eastern German town of Weimar. In Berlin. In 1948. See Chapter 12 for information on walking tours that focus on Berlin’s Nazi and Jewish histories. You can also visit the courtroom in Nuremberg where Nazi officials were tried after the war. the Berlin Wall was constructed. assistance in the form of the Marshall Plan. which continued until 1949. the war’s victors divided it into two states as the Cold War intensified. walking tours take visitors past Nazi-era buildings and exhibits that interpret Nazi methods. ߜ The rise of Nazism and World War II: Economic crisis in Germany was a major factor in the rise of the Nazi movement. including many prominent artists. and the Soviet-ruled German Democratic Republic (GDR) in the eastern half had its capital in East Berlin. The most wrenching memorials of that gruesome chapter of German history are the concentration camps Buchenwald (Chapter 14). nationalistic.S.

and rounded arches signal Romanesque architecture. Stalinist government of the GDR. ߜ Baroque (17th–18th centuries): A decorative exuberance in curvy baroque architecture sets it apart from the more sober Renaissance style. with East and West Germany united under one government. ߜ Renaissance (late 15th–17th centuries): Augsburg (Chapter 16) is one of the best cities in Germany to see Renaissance architecture. predominates in northern Germany in cities such as Lübeck (Chapter 13). with pointed arches. but the overall devastation affected nearly the entire country. The baroque flourished in Catholic. this style is slender and daring. The Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) and palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam (Chapter 12) are two of the best examples of baroque architecture in Germany. and classical decoration over windows and doors. Compared to Romanesque. soaring vaults and spires. Counter-Reformation areas in the south of Germany. Berlin was made the nation’s new capital. particularly in Cologne (Chapter 19). . thick walls. ߜ Gothic (13th–16th centuries): Cologne Cathedral (Chapter 19) is Germany’s greatest example of Gothic architecture. Reforms by Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev and underground. such as the medieval towns along the Romantic Road (see Chapter 16). built of brick.18 Part I: Introducing Germany suppressed revolutionary sentiment across central and eastern Europe. Munich (Chapter 15) abounds in the baroque. In 1991. a building style adapted from much earlier Roman models. orderly repeating lines. built from 1045 to 1188. Angela Merkel became Germany’s first female chancellor. Here are examples from around Germany of the major architectural trends: ߜ Romanesque (10th–12th centuries): Simple. A simpler and more monumental kind of Gothic architecture. and enormous windows. a style characterized by calm precision.200 years of architectural history and were created in a number of different styles. clear forms. The Dom St. grassroots communication between citizens in East Germany led to massive demonstrations against the repressive. Many historic buildings are painstaking postwar reconstructions. is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Germany. Kilian in Würzburg (Chapter 16). Bombing raids in WWII left much of the country’s rich architectural heritage in ruins. Many interesting examples of Romanesque architecture are found in western Germany. Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture Buildings that you can visit on a trip to Germany span some 1. In 2006. Renaissance architecture was imported from Italy into southern Germany. Some areas escaped damage.

This faux-medievalism is what Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein (Chapter 16) is all about. If you walk down the streets or pedestrian zones in just about any major German city. The school was banned by the Nazis because it didn’t promote “German-looking” architecture. neoclassicism gave way to the more ponderous Neo-Gothic style. you’ll see modernist buildings all around you. ߜ Modernism (1948 onward): A major housing shortage and rebuilding effort in bombed cities in Germany followed the devastation of WWII. Bauhaus was championed by Walter Gropius (1883–1969). James Stirling’s Neue Staatsgalerie in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) is a reminder of just how clunky.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 19 ߜ Rococo (18th century): Notch up the elements of baroque and you have rococo. The Bauhaus style predominates in the Weissenhofsiedlung area of Stuttgart (Chapter 18). Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany German cooking tends to be hearty and filling. ߜ Postmodernism (1980s onward): Postmodernism is a style practiced by architects who plunder the past and apply old styles to the buildings of today. where the architect Schinkel created a whole neoclassical avenue (Unter den Linden) and island of museums. One of the most famous examples of flamboyant rococo architecture in Germany is the Wieskirche (Chapter 16) in Bavaria. and so do many houses in the Schwabing district of Munich (Chapter 15). asymmetrical. who founded the Bauhaus school to create functional buildings and furnishings. created for a 1927 building exhibition. free of frills and unnecessary decoration. organic shapes. Bauhaus museums are in Weimar (Chapter 14) and Berlin (Chapter 12). exemplified by curving walls and staggering amounts of gilded and stucco decoration. ߜ Neoclassical/Neo-Gothic (mid 18th–19th centuries): The neoclassical style was meant to be a rebuke to the excesses of baroque and rococo. Seasonal specialties include Spargel (white . ߜ Jugendstil (early 20th century): Jugendstil is the German name for Art Nouveau. ߜ Bauhaus (1913–1933): A rigorously modern style. and it was most popular in Berlin (see Chapter 12). and unappealing most postmodern buildings are. The famous Mädlerpassage arcade in Leipzig (Chapter 14) shows Jugendstil influence. uninspired. functional style with straight lines and square windows. As the century wore on. It’s a simple. with many regional variations and specialties. an early-20th-century European movement that emphasized flowing.

so much so that the right to drink beer is written into some labor contracts. always serve good and fairly inexpensive traditional food. and wine. yeast. especially in southern Germany. Märzbier (maertz-beer). A proper draft beer. Vollbier (foal-beer. Weizenbier (vitsen-beer). Lager.200 varieties of biscuits and cakes.” is dark and strong. bottle). or standard beer) has 4 percent alcohol. but not too cold. from the barrel) or in a Flasche (flah-shuh. Erdbeeren (strawberries) in spring. You ask for ein Grosses (ine grow-ses). The traditional Biergarten (beer garden). Bockbier. Pils. When you order a beer in Germany. alcoholic content. . brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery). and taste all contribute to a German beer’s unique qualities. color. with a long-lasting head of white foam. with tables set outdoors under trees or trellises. The beer is always served cold. In the country as a whole. The range of beer varieties includes Altbier. beer. and Bockbier has 6 percent. Sampling German beer Bier (pronounced beer) remains a vital part of German culture. and tell the waiter or tavernkeeper whether you want ein Bier vom Fass (fum fahss. Ratskellers. can’t be poured in less than seven minutes to achieve the proper head. and a beer with lunch in the factory cafeteria is taken for granted. or ein Kleines (ine kly-nis). for a small. The ratio of ingredients. followed by Export. Export has 5 percent. with about 300 different types of bread and 1. malt beer) contains hardly any alcohol. made from wheat. or “March beer. Export. Berlin. Malzbier.20 Part I: Introducing Germany asparagus) in May and June. Pils. and water. for a large. Kölsch. When it comes to baked goods — bread and pastries — Germany has more variety than any country in the world. aging time. A Bräuhaus (broy-house) serves its own brew along with local food. is a Bavarian white beer. or Pilsener. traditional cellar restaurants beneath a city’s Rathaus (Town Hall). decide whether you want a dunkles Bier (dark beer. brewed with darkly roasted malt fermented for a long period of time) or a helles Bier (light beer. in an appropriate beer glass or mug. Forelle (trout) in the summer. you can taste about 150 different types of sausage. Märzbier. brewing temperature and technique. Matjes (white herring) in June and July. Vollbier. The most popular beer in Germany is Pils. and Weizenbier. To order a beer. and Reh (venison) in the fall. malt (barley). Munich. and Nuremberg all have their own special kinds. A German law adopted in 1516 dictates that German beer may contain no ingredients other than hops. Dark and sweet Malzbier (maltz-beer. is still very popular. beers are light and contain more hops. according to the Germans. you have many choices.

cultural. Each city has its favorites. ߜ Bismarck by Edward Crankshaw: An objective and highly readable life of the first chancellor of the German Empire and a seminal figure in Germany’s Prussian past. ߜ Before the Deluge: A Portrait of Berlin in the 1920s by Otto Friedrich: A fascinating portrait of the political.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 21 Although not kind to the waistline. German wines (Chapter 23). And German beers are legendary. Look out for regional specialties. ߜ Buddenbrooks by Thomas Mann: A classic of German literature. brewed right in the area. Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies In the following book and movie lists. provide excellent accompaniments to any meal. Books (fiction and nonfiction) The number of books written about Germany. past and present. that can help you gain a better understanding of German history. is the capital of Marzipan (almond paste). mostly from grapes grown in the scenic Rhine and Mosel valleys (Chapter 19). and social life of Berlin between the wars. Vollman: A bold. has increased dramatically during the past two decades. the German tradition of afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is alive and well. I attempt to provide a broad overview of Germany from many different perspectives and historical epochs. about WWII and the Holocaust. ߜ Billiards at Half-Past Nine by Heinrich Böll: A compelling novel by one of Germany’s best-known writers about the compromises made by a rich German family during the Hitler years. and in particular. ߜ Berlin Journal 1989–1990 by Robert Darnton: An eyewitness account of the events that led to the opening of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of East Germany’s Communist regime. and politics. for example. this novel deals with the transition of a merchant family in Lübeck from 19th-century stability to 20th-century uncertainty. too. personalities. ߜ Conversations with Goethe by Johann Peter Eckermann: Early19th-century Germany from the viewpoint of the most renowned German figure of the Enlightenment. The books I’ve selected include many great German authors. ߜ Europe Central by William T. brilliant novel that examines the authoritarian cultures of 20th-century Germany and . and Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is famous for its Lebkuchen (spice cakes). Lübeck (Chapter 13).

this powerful novel explores Nazism and its aftermath in the north German provinces. ߜ Germany 1866–1945 by Gordon Craig: One of the best single accounts of the turbulent political.22 Part I: Introducing Germany Russia and creates a mesmerizing picture of life during wartime from many different perspectives. and economic life in Germany from the foundation of the German Reich through the end of the Third Reich. mayor of cold-war West Berlin (1957–1966). ߜ The German Lesson by Siegfried Lenz: A bestseller when it first appeared in 1971. sketched with wit and humor. and John Toland. ߜ The Germans by Gordon Craig: A highly readable and knowledgeable portrait of postwar Germany. ߜ German Family Research Made Easy by J. ߜ Here I Stand: A Life of Martin Luther by Roland Bainton: A fascinating and meticulously researched account of the Protestant reformer. and chancellor of West Germany (1969–1974). ߜ My Life in Politics by Willy Brandt: The political memoirs of Willy Brandt (1913–1992). scholar. cultural. winner of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. Holocaust. ߜ Hitler: 1936–1945: Nemesis by Ian Kershaw: Several good biographies about Hitler have been written. statesman. Maier: A study of German attempts to come to terms with the Holocaust and the recent controversy surrounding conservative attempts to downplay the historical . this easy-to-follow guide makes the task easier. musician. written by a Nobel Prize winner who kept his own Nazi past a secret until 2006. including works by Robert Payne. but Kershaw’s is one of the best. ߜ A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain: Twain’s account of his travels in Germany is as fresh today as when it first was published in 1899. ߜ Frederick the Great by Nancy Mitford: Frederick. ߜ The Tin Drum by Günter Grass: Perhaps the most famous novel about life in post-WWII Germany. ߜ The Last Jews in Berlin by Leonard Gross: Gripping. Konrad: If you’re interested in tracing your German roots. true stories of a handful of Jews who managed to remain in Berlin during WWII by hiding out in the homes of non-Jewish German friends. ߜ Five Germanys I Have Known by Fritz Stern: The well-known historian chronicles the five distinct eras of Germany’s modern history that his Jewish family has experienced. Joachim Fest. and patron of the arts. and German National Identity by Charles S. ߜ The Unmasterable Past: History.

ߜ Ludwig (1972): Visconti’s turgid epic about the last king of Bavaria. My recommended list includes a selection of German and Germany-themed films available on VHS or DVD. the powerful Nazi official who was subsequently executed for war crimes. ߜ The Marriage of Maria Braun (1979): Hanna Schygulla stars as a woman married to a soldier in the waning days of WWII. customs. ߜ A Foreign Affair (1948): Billy Wilder’s cynically hilarious look at postwar occupied Berlin. from learning that the wall has come down and Germany has been reunited.S. Lenin! (2004): A wry comedy about a young man in East Berlin who tries to keep his bedridden mother. ߜ Witness to Nuremberg by Richard Sonnenfeldt: The chief American interpreter at the war-crimes trials tell his story of dealing directly with Hermann Göring. ߜ Goodbye. entertaining crash course in German culture. a gay man sent to Dachau concentration camp under the Nazi regime. the one who built Neuschwanstein.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany uniqueness of the German genocide against Jews and other minorities. ߜ Berlin Alexanderplatz (1980): Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 15-part television adaptation of the novel by Alfred Döblin follows the life of a man released from prison between the two world wars. ߜ The Blue Angel (1930): The film that shot Marlene Dietrich to international stardom remains stark. this classic German silent movie used expressionist sets to create a tale of murder and madness. and heritage. 23 ߜ When in Germany. WWII and the Holocaust have dominated the subject matter of recent films about Germany — so much so that German-made films about contemporary German life rarely get a showing outside of Germany unless they win a top prize at a film festival. ߜ The Cabinet of Doctor Caligari (1921): One of the earliest horror films. startling. Do as the Germans Do by Hyde Flippo: A short. ߜ Bent (1997): Movie adaptation of Martin Sherman’s powerful play about Max. Movies As with literature. and provocative. . a loyal Communist. senator. starring Marlene Dietrich as an amoral cabaret singer and Jean Arthur as a self-righteous U. ߜ Cabaret (1972): A musical based on Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories and set in Berlin at the brink of WWII.

Run (1999): Fast-paced twists and turns as Lola races desperately through Berlin seeking 100. ߜ Olympiad (1936): Leni Riefenstahl’s super-Aryan take on the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin.24 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Metropolis (1927): Fritz Lang directed this classic of German cinema. ߜ Wings of Desire (1988): An angel roaming the streets of Berlin and recording the angst and joy of ordinary life falls in love with a mortal. in which the Workers plan a revolt against the aloof Thinkers that dominate them in a future dystopia. ߜ Run. . ߜ Triumph of the Will (1934): Leni Riefenstahl filmed the gigantic 1934 Nazi conference and rally in Nuremberg as “image-control” propaganda for the Third Reich. Lola.000 Deutsche Marks to save her boyfriend from being rubbed out by a gangster.

For locations. check out the following thumbnail sketches and find details of the best places Germany has to offer in Chapters 1 and 2. see “The Regions in Brief” map in this chapter. 3rd Edition. which is influenced by the North and Baltic seas. This chapter points out highlights of each region and gives you the lowdown on the weather so you can determine the best destinations and time of year for your visit. often is wet or . special sights. with an emphasis on fish. only the essential highlights. I help you to narrow your focus so you can start planning your trip in earnest. and city in Deutschland. and scenic regions that Germany has to offer. region. is a selective guidebook. special festivals and events. Discovering northern Germany Northern Germany is a different world from southern Germany. My aim in this book is to introduce you to the best cities. The food is plainer. geared to savvy travelers who want to know more about Germany’s leading sights. Architecturally. You also find a calendar of events so you can time your trip to coincide with. I don’t cover every state. the north’s sober redbrick Gothic churches and buildings lack the ornate baroque decorations found in the Catholic south. To figure out which regions to visit during your trip. and when do you want to go? In this chapter.Chapter 3 Deciding Where and When to Go In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring Germany’s main points of interest ᮣ Scheduling your trip ᮣ Getting a grip on the seasons: Tourism and weather ᮣ Flipping through the country’s calendar of events hat do you want to see when you visit Germany. historic towns. W Going Where You Want to Be Germany For Dummies. or avoid. too. The climate in the north.

Lübeck. Similarly.26 Part I: Introducing Germany misty. one Communist — after World War II. and the Museum of Fine Arts. played in the lives of citizens. one of the biggest in the world. 18thcentury palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam — in Chapters 11 and 12. has been less interested in restoring its past than looking toward the future. another easy daytrip from Hamburg. top performing-arts venues. After Berlin and Munich (in the south). brash Berlin was the capital of the old German Reich for 70 years before it was divided into two cities — one capitalist. Does the Berliner Luft (Berlin air) account for Berlin’s endless and ongoing fizz of excitement. The peaceful revolution of 1989 began there. and Bremen. historic reverberations. For the scoop on Hamburg. Dresden. under the Communist regime of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). and striking new architecture. Lübeck. Exploring eastern Germany Now that Germany is reunited. such as Altona. Hamburg is the third-largest city in Germany. you have an opportunity to visit sections of eastern Germany that for 45 years were inaccessible. so are the breezy Alster Lakes in the center of the city. In Hamburg. you find a historic center with a day’s worth of sightseeing possibilities. an easy daytrip from Hamburg. cafes. on the other hand. has so many medieval brick buildings that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site — a place judged to be of exceptional cultural value. multifaceted collection of art. which houses an outstanding. East Germany’s secret police. You find comprehensive coverage of Berlin — including a daytrip to Frederick the Great’s charming. Leipzig. has treasures beyond measure in the Zwinger Palace and the Residenzschloss. The Bach Museum is of interest to classical-music lovers. and visit the Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum). In Bremen. from the Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall) to the church spires that dominate the skyline. now a lively area with restaurants. on the Elbe River and only two hours from Berlin by train. It has stitched itself back together to become the capital (and largest city) of a reunified Germany and now reigns as one of the most fascinating cities in the world. . the Zeitgeschichtliches Museum (Contemporary History Museum) chronicles the history and artifacts of the GDR years. opened in 2005. you can also explore beautiful 19th-century neighborhoods. and the city seems to be working overtime to shake off its GDR legacy: The Museum in der Runden Ecke is devoted to the role the Stasi. you see examples of its 900-yearold history everywhere you turn. but some people believe the maritime atmosphere is part of its overall appeal. as some people claim? With world-class museums. or at least difficult to visit. Berlin is where all is happening in Germany right now. according to the United Nations’ agency that promotes education and the arts. is a major tourist attraction. and its harbor. offers a rich collection of European art and 19th-century German paintings. turn to Chapter 13. and bars. In the Altstadt. Big.

The homes of these two literary giants are Weimar’s most popular tourist attractions. the poet and dramatist Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832). A visit to the Buchenwald Memorial. It suffered little damage during the war and was the home of Germany’s greatest writer. The small Bauhaus Museum exhibits paintings. Schleswig Mountain Kiel North Sea East Frisian Is. and drawings from the Bauhaus school.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 27 The Regions in Brief 0 0 50 mi Sylt Sylt Westerland DENMARK Baltic Sea Kiel Bay Hiddensee N 50 km Flensburg North Frisian Is. Cuxhaven Rügen gen Mecklenburg Stralsund Pomeranian Bay Bay Rostock Greifswald Wismar Lübeck beck West Frisian Is. eastern town of Weimar is in a category of its own. the site of a Nazi-run concentration camp just outside of Weimar where at least 56. Nuremberg C AN FR Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl O JUR LUXEMTrier BOURG in Bayreuth Bamberg Darmstadt Worms Mannheim eck Homburg Heidelberg N Saarbrücken Saarbr cken A CZECH REPUBLIC M Ta ub er BO NI ar HE A Karlsruhe BadenBaden Schwäbisch Schw bisch Hall Stuttgart Ulm B (SC LAC Rhi ne HW K F AR OR ZW EST AL D) Tübingen bingen Regensburg F O RE Da ST nub e rdlingen Nördlingen r Ingolstadt Isa Passau Augsburg Landshut N I FRANCE Lech Freiburg Lörrach rrach SWAB Donaueschingen Meersburg Konstanz Lindau Lake JU IAN RA nu Da be Dachau Munich Oberammergau Füssen ssen GarmischPartenkirchen Southern and Western Germany See Part IV Prien am AU Chiemsee Berchtesgaden STRIA SW S W I TZ TZE ER RLA L A ND ND Constance (Bodensee) Neuschwanstein Zugspitze The small.d.000 people . pottery.T. quiet. Stettin Bay Neubrandenburg Wilhelmshaven Emden Oldenburg Bremerhaven W Elb e Hamburg El be Schwerin TH HE E N ET H ERLAN DS NET HER L AND S Bremen Celle Northern and Eastern Germany See Part III Alle r Brandenburg Havel Osnabr ck Osnabrück Minden Hannover Braunschweig Hameln Goslar BERLIN Frankfurt Münster nster Rh in e Bielefeld Detmold Hildesheim Potsdam an der Oder Oder bbenau Lübbenau Cottbus Magdeburg H A R Z Wittenberg Essen Lippe Dortmund Ruhr Düsseldorf sseldorf Bad Pyrmont Dessau be El Od ese r Lüneburg neburg er POLAND Mönchengladbach nchengladbach Cologne Aachen Ems Ne We ser Spre Göttingen ttingen isse Halle Leipzig e Kassel Weimar Bad Wildungen Eisenach Erfurt Bautzen Naumburg Meissen Dresden Altenburg Freiberg Jena Görlitz rlitz TH Bonn BEL BE LG GIUM IU M Bad Nauheim Bad Homburg Bad Kissingen GE Gera Zwickau RW Chemnitz ER E ZG BI RG E Koblenz Wiesbaden Mainz Rhi ne ÜR ALD Coburg Hof La IN be BernkastelKues Frankfurt am Main Aschaffenburg Ma Würzburg rzburg AN Speyer Rothenburg o. and to the playwright Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805). textiles. furniture. which began here in 1919.

. Details about the Bodensee and the Black Forest are in Chapter 17. even raucous: Millions pour into the city during Oktoberfest to experience Munich’s renowned giant beer halls and beer gardens. Germany’s largest lake. Southern Germany also includes the Bodensee (also called Lake Constance). the largest science and technology museum in the world. Bavaria is full of scenic splendor and picturesque charm. semitropical gardens flourish on Mainau. In the center of town sits an enormous palace. Germany’s highest peak. This alpine region. This enchanting route winds south from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein. Ranking right up there with the offerings of Berlin are Munich’s museums. but it’s also boisterous. sits in a sun-drenched basin with a view of the Alps to the south. or Black Forest. the Residenz. can be an intense and profoundly moving experience. symphony. an island in the lake. an island-city connected to the mainland by a causeway. the most beautiful driving tour in Germany. From Munich. The city’s most popular museum is the Deutsches Museum. a town that’s famous for its woodcarvers and for the Passion play performed there every ten years — a tradition dating back to the 17th century. 19th-century greats. Munich’s musical life is the envy of many cities. is a place that’s tailor-made for tourists. Bavaria. with its famous mineral baths and glamorous casino. and it’s close to the Zugspitze. the daytrip to the mountain resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen is an easy one. used by the rulers of Bavaria from the 14th century up to 1918. and Weimar in Chapter 14. You’ll find plenty of both along the Romantic Road. the lively and lovely city of Freiburg is a delight. which is accessible by cable car. In the Black Forest. and the famous Schwarzwald. You also find lovely churches with sober Gothic and exuberant baroque interiors. the capital.28 Part I: Introducing Germany died. Chapter 15 is devoted to the many delights of Munich. and major 20th-century artists. Savoring southern Germany Southern Germany is worlds apart from the north. The Romantic Road and daytrips in Bavaria are covered in Chapter 16. Munich. the Bodensee. also is where you find Oberammergau. Germany’s largest and most prosperous Land (state). Farther north is the city of Baden-Baden. and vineyards and fruit trees grow around its shoreline. Leipzig. Lindau. From there you can explore the surrounding forest or hunt for a cuckoo clock. with an upscale chic. where cowbells clang in the meadows and classic chalets nestle in picturesque valleys. Both areas offer great natural beauty and plenty of recreational opportunities. with year-round opera. Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle in the Bavarian Alps. and concerts of all kinds. You find complete coverage of Dresden. with stops at several perfectly preserved medieval towns along the way. one of the traditional industries of the Black Forest region. is cultured and elegant. is the best spot to stay. crammed with old masters.

Frankfurt has a modern. Among its many cultural offerings are several important museums. Heidelberg is for many people the quintessential romantic German town. which comes as a wonderful surprise to many visitors. Stuttgart’s is one of the largest. and a delightful Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum). in part because it’s the point of entry for most visitors who fly into the country. Nürnberg (or Nuremberg as it’s known in English) was rebuilt in a style that evokes the medieval era when it was one of the most important cities in Germany. Chief among its many outstanding museums are the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. . The city’s past dark side as a center for Nazi rallies is documented in the harrowing exhibit at the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Party Rally Grounds Documentation Center) created within Albert Speer’s Nazi Congress Hall. all described in Chapter 20. reigns as the cultural capital of southwestern Germany. business-oriented buzz and a skyline pierced by designer skyscrapers. You can also visit many wine towns by train. Nuremberg has as many romantic corners as Heidelberg. Stuttgart. Its chief glory is its awe-inspiring Dom (Cathedral). occupies a prime spot on the Rhine River. an art museum housed in a striking glass cube offering a panoramic view of Stuttgart. one of Germany’s best for art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. the largest Gothic structure north of the Alps. and good-natured town offers more than enough to keep you busy for a couple of days. with major painting collections and the fabulous Neue Galerie. Cologne also is one of the contemporary-art capitals of Germany. Heidelberg’s enormous ruined castle oversees its picturesque Altstadt (Old Town). Köln. Heidelberg. River cruises originating in Cologne and many other cities in the area take you through valleys of neatly clipped vineyards soaking up sunlight on steep hillsides. in addition to the country’s largest museum of art and culture. and Nuremberg are covered in Chapter 18. For more on Cologne and side trips into Germany’s wine country. Frankfurt probably is the best-known metropolis in western Germany. Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is the oldest in Germany. see Chapter 19. Little more than a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of WWII. one of the top modern-art museums in Europe. Sitting on the Neckar River amid green hills. only 40 minutes by train from Heidelberg. Cologne was an important Roman town during a period that is wonderfully interpreted in the Romisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). or Cologne (as it’s known in English). the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). By contrast. Stuttgart. and the Museum Ludwig. sophisticated. The banking capital of Germany and the European Union. The Rhine and Mosel valleys in western Germany form one of Europe’s top wine-producing areas. This lively.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 29 Wending through western Germany Western Germany is a densely populated area with an ancient history and cities with vibrant personalities all their own.

If a driving tour along the Romantic Road is part of your itinerary. ߜ From Hamburg. In addition. Leipzig. the northern German cities of Lübeck and Bremen are a short train ride away. Keep German holidays in mind when scheduling your trip. so you can choose the best time for your visit. Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday). Corpus Christi (ten days after Pentecost). you have easy access to the cities of Dresden. the latter of which has a new Delta direct flight from New York. ߜ From Cologne. If you want to explore all parts of the country. Füssen. and Baden-Baden — are never more than three hours away by train. and Berlin. .30 Part I: Introducing Germany Scheduling Your Time If you’re flying into the country from outside of Europe. including Neuschwanstein. Easter (including Good Friday and Easter Monday). Garmisch-Partenkirchen. the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany). in addition to Augsburg. and Oberammergau. ߜ From Berlin. Stuttgart. and Weimar in eastern Germany. and Lindau on Lake Constance. ߜ From Munich. an easy hour-and-a-half drive away (see Chapter 16 for more details). Hamburg. May 1 (Labor Day). November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance). Many museums and attractions close on the following public holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day). and December 25 to 26 (Christmas). Frankfurt airport has its own train station. consider centering your itineraries in Berlin. you can easily reach places in the Bavarian Alps. all the major cities of western Germany — Heidelberg. rent a car at Frankfurt airport and drive to the beginning of the scenic route in Würzburg. Munich. and Cologne. Nuremberg. your airport choices are Frankfurt. You can also arrange for boat trips on the Rhine and visit the winegrowing regions by car or train. Munich. the seventh Sunday after Easter). October 3 (Day of German Unity). Ascension Day (ten days before Pentecost/ Whitsunday. August 15 (Assumption). so it’s possible to hop on a fast train at the airport and arrive almost anywhere in Germany within five hours or less of your arrival. and November 1 (All Saints’ Day). Revealing the Secret of the Seasons How do you decide what time of year to travel to Germany? This section presents the pros and cons of each season.

for instance.6 1. castles.6 40 4 2. temperate climate.6 3. may be more than two hours long. So. As in many parts of the world.9 64 18 62 17 56 13 2. In northern Germany. or convention center/fairground. I think a disclaimer is in order. °F Temp. In southern Germany. °C Rainfall (in. generally from October through March. some report a hotter and drier climate. Average summer temperatures range from 72°F to 80°F (20°C–30°C). or the Reichstag dome in Berlin. see Table 3-1 for Berlin in the north and Table 3-2 for Frankfurt in the south.) 30 –1 32 0 40 4 48 9 53 12 2. These trade fairs can put a real squeeze on hotel rooms. For average temperatures and rainfalls. with a year-round schedule of major trade shows in all industries.7 . the high season for travel in Germany is from Easter to the end of September with another peak in December.3 60 16 2. Recent summers brought record-breaking heat waves and even in autumn many parts of Germany can be warmer than expected. resulting in plenty of unpredictable weather.9 2. and tourist offices have shorter hours and may be closed certain days of the week. be prepared for variations.2 2. the lines for major attractions.2 49 9 1. Most castles and palaces can be visited daily yearround. museums. In the winter months. Nearly all large German cities have a Messe. some locals claim that they now receive less snow and more rain than in decades past.2 1. but from April through September. Table 3-1 Berlin’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Temp. July and August may be less expensive because that’s when Germans take off on their own holidays. In general. October and November and January through March are the low seasons. The average winter temperature hovers around 32°F (0°C). especially in the north.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 31 Traveling during high and low seasons Roughly speaking. Overall. and many hotels consequently offer lower summer rates. That said. like Neuschwanstein and Linderhof castles in Bavaria.4 34 1 1. Watching those unpredictable skies Before I write about the weather in Germany. the weather in Germany has become less predictable than in the past.2 1. crowds and prices tend to rise during big trade fairs. The country is most crowded during the months of May and June. Germany has a predominantly mild. bear in mind that the climate is constantly affected by colliding continental and maritime air masses from the Baltic and North seas. although I can give you a very broad overview of general weather patterns in Germany.

an early spring means that tables are set up in sunny squares and life begins to move outdoors.2 50 10 4. you find asparagus specialties on menus everywhere. . the weather up north can remain.7 5. leaving May as an “inbetween” off-month: The weather in the Alps tends to be soggy and foggy at this time.6 5. ߜ During school holidays.5 66 19 66 19 58 14 4. shall we say.5 5. ߜ The carefully tended parks and gardens in German cities show off their first spring flowers.1 If your trip includes northern Germany. especially around Easter. the months that are least cloudy.8 41 5 6.9 63 17 5. But keep in mind these springtime pitfalls: ߜ Cold. a dry south wind from the Alps.32 Part I: Introducing Germany Table 3-2 Frankfurt’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 34 1 36 2 42 6 49 9 57 14 5. invigorating. °F Temp. In the interior of Germany. Even with clear skies. Blossoming in spring Spring comes earliest in the south and in the Rhine Valley. Here are some of the season’s highlights: ߜ The warmth of springtime sun coaxes out the new vines in Germany’s Rhineland wine country. though.1 5.0 5. ߜ May and June is Spargel (white asparagus) season throughout Germany. consider visiting in April and May. rainy weather can last well into early summer in Berlin and other northern cities. The Föhn. heralds the approach of spring around the giant Bodensee (Lake Constance) and in the river valleys of the Black Forest and throughout southwestern Germany. °C Rainfall (in. major attractions in cities throughout Germany tend to be more crowded.5 35 2 6 Temp. ߜ The snow in the Alps usually melts by April. ߜ In towns around Bodensee.) 6. such as Lindau. the least-gray months usually are June and September. ߜ Blossoms appear on the fruit trees grown around the Bodensee and the Rhine.

and other river valleys turn golden as the days grow shorter. or sometimes later. Indian summer. Summer in the north comes later and remains variable because of maritime influences from the North and Baltic seas. after the grape harvest.m.and late-summer days can become hot. making this a perfect time to explore the Romantic Road. Leipzig. Summer weather in the Bavarian Alps is extremely variable and changes according to altitude. hotels and concert halls can be broiling. mid. and Berlin become more inviting as warm weather settles in. and thundery. which also can be the case in Dresden. ߜ In traffic-jammed cities like Berlin. Munich. frequently makes a welcome appearance during October and November. ߜ Heat and humidity can make for sticky sightseeing throughout central and southern Germany. windless days. or what the Germans call Altweibersommer (old women’s summer). and Frankfurt. ߜ Lakes in the Alps. ߜ Getting into top attractions like Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace can take two hours or more. ߜ You can dine alfresco (outdoors) in most German cities. In southern and western Germany. local winds. ߜ Outdoor musical performances and street fairs take place in many cities and regions. and the landlocked eastern portion of the country. However. ߜ Warm summer nights stay light much longer. wet winters. ߜ Air-conditioning is not common in Germany. But keep in mind: ߜ Airfare tends to be higher during summer months. heralding gray. Some summer perks to consider: ߜ Prices for hotels often are lower in July and August. In the north. The deciduous trees in the Black and Thuringian forests and along the Rhine. ߜ Many attractions are open longer hours. Autumn days are beautiful in scenic Bavaria. autumn is likely to be rainy and blustery. vines turn yellow. mild weather in southern Germany. Glowing in autumn Fall is one of the best times to visit Germany.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 33 Shining (and raining) in summer From April through September. the Black Forest. humid. around Cologne and even as far north as Berlin. . and the orientation of individual valleys to the sun. until 10 p. gasoline and diesel exhaust can create air pollution on hot. you can generally count on warm. Neckar.

ߜ In the weeks before Lent. This story is different in the Bavarian Alps and the Black Forest. Cologne and Munich celebrate with citywide carnivals (Fasching). . This season has only one real drawback: Autumn may be gray and rainy. symphony. ߜ Although you’ll be comfortable in your hotel. cities throughout the country set up magical outdoor Christmas markets where you find tree ornaments. and the Rhineland glow with autumn hues. Both the Alps and the Black Forest are known for their fine skiing and winter sports.m. snow doesn’t stay on the ground for long. handcrafted goods. ߜ Scenic areas like the Black Forest. where the winter weather is colder and snow adds to the beauty of the mountain and forest landscapes. and seemingly endless. numbing. ߜ Giant beer festivals transform Munich and Stuttgart. Welcoming winter Snow can fall anywhere in Germany.34 Part I: Introducing Germany A few advantages of autumn: ߜ Summer crowds have thinned out by the end of September. especially in the north. and baked delights. and other events swings into high gear. ߜ Towns in winegrowing areas celebrate with wine festivals. especially in the north. Winter can be wonderful because: ߜ In December. skiers head for the slopes and cross-country trails. lending a special air to the country’s many Christmas markets. ߜ The smell of new wine fills the old streets of winegrowing towns. The cold can be raw. ߜ Almost everything shuts down on December 25 and 26 and New Year’s Day. ߜ Daylight drops dramatically: Darkness falls as early as 3:30 or 4 p. ߜ Airfares usually drop. But winter has its downside: ߜ Brrr. But with winter temperatures hovering right around freezing. and often turns into sleet. Germans tend to underheat rather than overheat their spaces. the Bavarian Alps. ߜ When the snow starts to fall in the Alps and the Black Forest. ߜ Germany’s cultural calendar of opera.

contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. are particularly famous. where he was choirmaster. Bingen and Rüdesheim.berlinale. January New Year’s Day International Ski and Munich (% 089/233-0300. On special Saturday nights during Rhein im Feuerzauber (Rhine in Flames). and special exhibitions.garmisch-partenkirchen. plays. For information. See the appendix for the tourist board’s contact information. reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday. and St. Second week in February. February The well-respected Berlin International Film Festival (% 030/25920. in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/180-700.muenchen-tourist. or call or write for a free calendar of www. www. A week in Goar and St. Goarshausen) illuminate their castles and set off fireworks. The renowned Bachfest/Bach Festival (% 0341/913-7333. Fasching (Carnival) festivals take place in Catholic cities throughout including concerts. www. Verifying dates beforehand with the German National Tourist Board is a good idea. Last week in May to the first week in June. January 1. and in other churches and concert halls. contact Tourist Information (% 09861/40492. is one of Europe’s major winter sporting events. various towns along the Rhine (between Bonn and Linz. Events take place twice a year.bachleipzig. Rothenburg ob der Tauber celebrates the story of how a brave citizen saved the town from destruction by drinking a huge tankard of wine (an event called Der Meistertrunk). Third week in May. May through July. For information.germany-tourism. www.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 35 Perusing a Calendar of Events Germany hums year-round with festivals and special events of all kinds. Celebrations in Cologne (% 0221/9433. May Hamburg Summer is a summer-long series of cultural events. The best . During the Historisches Festspiel (Historic Festival). first week of September. www. Koblenz and Braubach. Check its Web site ( in Leipzig features performances of Johann Sebastian Bach’s work in the famous Thomaskirche. lasts for a week and showcases the work of international film directors in addition to the latest German films.

jazz concerts. Mid-August. the Richard Wagner Festival (% 0921/78780. performances. first weekend in June. shmf. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/ Events take place in the Münsterplatz surrounding Freiburg’s magnificent cathedral. one of the best music festivals in Germany. and events for the whole family. last weekend in June. and street fairs. For information. for events in Cologne. contact Heidelberg Part I: Introducing Germany vantage point is from a riverboat on the Rhine. features folk music. MidJuly to early September. log on to www. www. www. www. . contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau (% 06722/19433). Unfortunately. contact the German National Tourist Board (see the appendix for contact info). Enjoy vintages from the surrounding Black Forest area during Freiburg im Breisgau’s Public Wine log on to www. and early September. opera tickets must be booked years in advance. For information. August During Weinkost (Food and Wine Fair) in Freiburg im Breisgau. takes place in the Rhine village most famous for red wines. Mid-August. heidelberg.festspiele. Berlin and Cologne have the largest Gay Pride festivals. Early June. Cologne. May through September. classical concerts take place in venues in and around the lovely old city of Lübeck. June Fireworks enliven the sky in the romantic university city of Heidelberg during the Floodlighting of the Castle. Last weekend in June. local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district and regional food specialties. For details. For information. www. Last week in August through first week in The Traditional Rüdesheim Wine During the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival (% 0800/7463-2002. Nürnberger Herbsfest (Fall Festival). Late July to late Berlin. in featuring parades. For events in Berlin. a big Frankish folk festival in Nuremberg (% 0911/468-600. mid-July. Pavillon (% 06221/ takes place in the composer’s famous Festspielhaus (opera house). www. www.freiburg. in Rüdesheim am Rhein. For more information. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. July One of Europe’s major opera events. de).volksfest-nuernberg.

Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 37 Arts and pleasure abound during Hamburg’s Alstervergnügen (Alster Pleasures).000 beer drinkers. where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to 6. Events. October The largest book fair in Europe. For information. the 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. Germany’s most famous happens mostly in for more details. Millions show up. contact the Stuttgart tourist information office (% 0711/2228259. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/ Contact the tourist information office (% 0711/222-8259. Late September. contact TourismusZentrale (% 040/3005-1201. For more September Munich’s Oktoberfest (www. staged at the Philharmonie. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. the Berliner Festwochen (Berlin Festival) brings an international roster of performing artists to Berlin for opera. is the biggest public event in northern Germany. At the Stuttgart Wine Festival. Hamburger Dom (also called Winter Dom).de). which take place around Binnenalster Lake. Dating back to 1818.stuttgart-tourist. www. www. include food stalls. .stuttgart-tourist.frankfurt-book-fair. Mid-October. www. For information. not October. and tents for beer drinkers. symphony. wine lovers converge on Schillerplatz to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. November The annual Jazz-Fest Berlin. the Frankfurt Book Fair (% 069/21010. Last weekend in August. Last week in August. November 9 to December for is a major event in the world of international book publishing. and theatrical presentations. Mid-September to the first Sunday in October. contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/ www. rides. One of the high points on the cultural calendar of Germany. and visitors pack hotels. Most activities occur at Theresienwiese. an annual amusement fair at Hamburg’s Heiligengeistfeld. and shows. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. www. September through mid-October. www. begins with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes and features First week in November. attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists.

Dresden. Munich. Late November or early December until Christmas. among other cities. “Christ Child Market”). Nuremberg. Leipzig. takes place in town squares throughout Germany. Contact the individual tourist offices of each city. or the German National Tourist Board. You find them in Cologne. . for details (see the appendix for contact information). Frankfurt. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. generally called a Weihnachtsmarkt (Weihnachten means Christmas) or a Christkindlmarkt (literally.38 Part I: Introducing Germany December A Christmas Market. and Stuttgart.

beginning in Munich and ending in Berlin. make your way to the . some of these itineraries are more enjoyable if you have a car. and visit the nearby Frauenkirche. Munich’s largest church. see Chapter 15 for Munich. and Chapter 12 for Berlin. one of the greatest food markets in Europe. watch the Glockenspiel. I include two of King Ludwig II’s castles and a brief stop in Cologne.) Although you can reach all the destinations in this chapter by train or public transportation. Browse around and find a place for lunch from among the dozens of possibilities in the area. on the Rhine. If you haven’t visited a destination before. Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week This seven-day itinerary. I lay out some suggested travel itineraries for those with limited time or with special interests. For details on getting around the country. You can go up to the top of the Rathaus tower for a bird’s-eye view. Chapter 16 for the Bavarian Alps and its castles. For more information about the sights that I mention. (See Chapter 1 for some preliminary information on what the country offers. Shake out your plane-cramped legs by taking to the streets for some general exploration. Then walk over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt. how do you know what’s worth seeing and what isn’t? In this chapter. Head first for Marienplatz. shows you the contrasts between southern Germany and northern Germany and introduces you to the country’s two greatest cities. Chapter 19 for Cologne. Afterward. see Chapter 7.Chapter 4 Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options In This Chapter ᮣ Seeing Germany’s top attractions in one or two weeks ᮣ Discovering Germany with your kids ᮣ Planning trips for wine aficionados P utting together a good itinerary is one of the hardest parts of any trip. the city’s main square. Spend Day 1 in marvelous Munich.

which displays an international collection of 20th-century masterpieces. a showcase for 19thcentury German and European art. the trip is only 40 minutes by train or car to Oberammergau. you can easily get a bus from Füssen for the 6. Or make an easy excursion to beautiful Schloss Nymphenburg. If you’re driving. you can make an easy excursion to the Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). or Füssen. Ludwig II’s Frenchinspired castle. the location for Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. the closest town to Linderhof Palace.40 Part I: Introducing Germany Asamkirche for a glimpse of the baroque ornamentation for which southern Germany is famous. Have lunch near Marienplatz. Make Neuschwanstein your top priority. the town closest to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles. and be sure to visit the collection of carriages. If you rent a car. If you’re in the mood for oom-pah-pah. and be sure to take time to stroll around the lovely historic district of town. which includes the bizarrely ornate sleighs and coaches used by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. as Germany’s most popular tourist attraction. visit adjacent Hohenschwangau Castle. Tours of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castle take about one hour. In the afternoon. a beautiful baroque masterpiece located just a few miles north of Füssen. this castle quickly fills up with tourists as the day wears on. you may want to see the priceless collection of old masters at the Alte Pinakotheke. if you’re still in a “royal” mood. make your way to Füssen. so you may want to end your evening at a concert or the opera. have dinner at the fun-loving Hofbräuhaus. which is famous for its woodcarvers. At some point. On Day 4. allow some extra time to wander through the gardens. Oberammergau. choose a museum to visit. If you’re interested in science and technology. You can bring a picnic or order a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. By train from Oberammergau. Munich’s largest and prettiest park. which you can reach by streetcar. Ludwig’s childhood home. head to the Bavarian Alps. Munich is one of Germany’s top cultural capitals. take a bus from Oberammergau to Schloss Linderhof. On Day 3. Special cog railways and cable cars can take you up and bring you back down. In the afternoon. If you’re without wheels. just south of Munich. for a spectacular view of the Alps. the trip takes a little more than an hour. If you’re an art lover. Three possibilities are the Neue Pinakothek. Spend the night in Garmisch. Then. From Garmisch. You need the entire morning to wander through the enormous Residenz in central Munich. creator of Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle. and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum.5km (4-mile) trip to the castle. If you choose Nymphenburg. whose wares you may want to purchase. Wander through this small Bavarian town. Start Day 2 in a palace. Spend the night in Füssen. choose another museum to visit. Or you can take a train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and ascend the Zugspitze. Germany’s highest peak. make your way to the famous Deutsches Museum. you can easily explore some of the sights along the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road). fit in a stroll in the bucolic Englischer Garten. You can dine near the parking area below Neuschwanstein. If you’re without a car. . the brand-new Pinakothek Moderne Kunst.

call German Rail at % 11861). You can also take a sightseeing boat ride along the Rhine. www. you may be able to return the vehicle in Füssen. the symbol of the city. Chapter 14 for Dresden. or a cabaret. (By fast train. for train information and schedules.000 years ago.) You’ll see Cologne’s greatest sight — the enormous Gothic Dom (cathedral) — as you step out of the train station. such as the Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). For detailed information on the cities and sights that I mention. dedicated to the Romans who made Cologne one of their strategic forts nearly 2. Here’s hoping your flight home departs sometime in the afternoon on Day 7. Cologne’s delicious beer). entirely devoted to 20th-century and contemporary art. the new quarter where the Berlin Wall once stood. Chapter 15 for .de). After your tour. East Side. and Weimar. the fastest train from Füssen takes about 7 hours. hop on the train and make your way to Köln (Cologne) for Day 5. and Museum Ludwig. From either city. too. Leipzig. displaying old and modern masters. or you can drive back to Munich and return it there. so you can take advantage of the morning by going over to the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) to see the world-famous bust of Egyptian queen Nefertiti. so when darkness falls you may want to attend an opera. From Potsdamer Platz. Berlin is famed for its nightlife. The trip from Cologne is under 41⁄2 hours.severin-kuehn-berlin. Take the elevator up to the new dome on top of the Reichstag — the dome is open late. Enjoy the afternoon in this lively Rhine-side city by visiting the cathedral and one or two of its many fine museums. you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. The city has an excellent music scene. so come back later if the line is long. a concert. western Berlin’s renowned boulevard. To book a bus tour. the trip from Munich takes about 51⁄2 hours. make your way over to Potsdamer Platz. Then walk east down Unter den Linden to Museumsinsel (Museum Island). Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. and the Reichstag. take one of the sleek. before making your way to the airport. superfast trains to Berlin (the trains depart from the Cologne Hauptbahnhof. sophisticated Berlin has endless things to do. the country’s parliamentary headquarters. the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. and stop in at the Pergamon Museum or the Altes Museum with their fantastic collections of antiquities. Huge. Stay overnight in Cologne and have dinner at one of the city’s famous beer halls (be sure to sample Kölsch. Settle into your hotel and then take one of the sightseeing bus tours of the city — otherwise you’ll see only a fraction of this enormous metropolis. On the morning of Day 6. so you may want to see an opera or attend a concert. contact Severin+Kühn. check out Chapter 12 for Berlin and Potsdam.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 41 If you have your car for a two-day rental. Then stroll down the Ku-Damm. West Side: Germany in Two Weeks What a treat — two weeks to take in the sights! This suggested itinerary makes a clockwise circuit of Germany.

Spend Day 2 on the western side of the city. which displays the stunning bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. Afterward. is one of the great art cities of Germany. contact Severin+Kühn. Berlin. is the starting point on Day 1 of your two-week tour of Deutschland. on the Elbe River about two hours south of Berlin by train. you see a different side of Germany (literally) in the eastern cities of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). You can eat near the palace or back in Berlin.severin-kuehn-berlin. then head over to the Reichstag and take the elevator up to the new dome for a view of the city. Dresden. From Museumsinsel. an easy trip from Berlin by S-Bahn. the upscale shopping street. a beautiful neoclassical a pre–World War I quarter that now features several smart cafes and shops. Head over to the Charlottenburg neighborhood for a tour of Schloss (Palace) Charlottenburg and a stroll through the palace gardens. which includes a tour of Frederick the Great’s rococo palace and a walk through the landscaped grounds. Germany’s capital and largest city. Several museums are in and around the palace. the . and wander into the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas’ Quarter) before you head up to the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) to visit the Pergamon Museum and/or the Altes Museum. such as the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) or the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. Chapter 16 for Bavaria and its castles. Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee. Berlin’s most famous park. the most famous boulevard in western Berlin. of course. the most famous boulevard in this part of the city.42 Part I: Introducing Germany Munich. the Residenzschloss. You want to give yourself at least four hours for this excursion. you can walk to Friedrichstrasse. and. Have something fun lined up for the evening: Berlin has three opera houses. visit one of Berlin’s great museums. Start at Potsdamer Platz. Head back to the Kurfürstendamm (known as Ku-Damm). Plenty of entertainment options exist for the evening. On Day 4. Stop by the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church). the most historic part of the city. you want to focus your attention on the Albertinum. for lunch or to find a cafe for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). variety shows. a vast collection of treasures accrued by Saxon rulers. In Dresden. In the afternoon. to book one. which was ruled by the Communists until 1990. countless bars and clubs. Berlin is an enormous city. the most famous is the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum). www. three major symphony orchestras. walk to the Brandenburg Gate and head east down Unter den Linden. cabarets. left as a colossal ruin after the devastation of World War II. Spend the morning of Day 3 at Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam. and Chapter 18 for Heidelberg and Nuremberg. Eastern Berlin has numerous attractions: Make sure that you stop at the Gendarmenmarkt. Then spend a while strolling in the Tiergarten. or take the S-Bahn (the city’s system of elevated trains) to Hackescher Markt. Devote your afternoon to exploring eastern Berlin. so start the morning by taking one of the sightseeing bus tours.

This small. The city has two unusual museums that shed light on the GDR era: The Museum in der Runden Ecke documents the methods of the dreaded Stasi. Start your explorations at Marienplatz. Choose a museum you’d especially like to visit: Most visitors make the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters . the Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) moved into a building close to Marktplatz. a restored royal palace that is home to four museums. and the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) examines all aspects of life in the GDR from 1945 to 1989. Spend the night in Dresden. you won’t want to miss seeing a performance at the Semper Opera House. the Bauhaus School of Art and Design operated in Weimar. too. Stay overnight in Weimar. you can visit the small Bauhaus Museum. a vaulted underground restaurant. In 2005. today. From Dresden on Day 5. is one of Germany’s literary meccas. a “city palace” near Goethe’s house. you have to make some decisions about what to see. 3.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 43 new home of the famed treasury known as the Green Vault. and then head over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt to wander through this wonderland of an outdoor market. pretty city. Visit the scene of Duchess Anna Amalia’s glittering salons in the Wittumspalais. Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster of the famous Thomaskirche (St. only an hour away. which reopened in 2006 after being painstakingly restored. the great German dramatist Friedrich Schiller. portions of which have been left much as they were in his lifetime. Weimar was one of Germany’s great centers of art and culture during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. you may want to take an excursion boat along the Elbe into the area known as Saxon Switzerland. If you love symphonic music. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and his friend. where he is buried. Enjoy a dinner of regional food in the famous Auerbachs Keller.” With only two days. or take the train to Munich. If you’re an opera lover. filled with leafy parks and neoclassical buildings. Weimar has its dark side. Leipzig is a busy. Germany’s “secret capital. and the Zwinger. From April through September. is the Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial). the next stop on this itinerary. Your destination for Day 7 is delightful Munich. Otherwise (or afterward). In the early 20th century. hop on a train for Leipzig. the journey takes about five hours. is the town’s most visited site. Not far from the city center. Thomas Church). the city’s main square. East Germany’s secret police. the town’s liveliest square. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe’s House). Make it a point to see the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). bustling city with a long musical 41⁄2-hour trips take place daily. on the site of a Nazi-era concentration camp. fast trains take less than an hour to reach Weimar. and the Bach Museum is dedicated to his life and works. your destination for Day 6. be sure to reserve a seat to hear the worldfamous Gewandhaus Orchestra. From Leipzig. the most important being the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery). lived here.

visit the nearby Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). and mountains in the southwestern corner of Germany is famed for its health resorts. The charming and lively university town of Freiburg is about three hours by train from Lindau. swimming. sample one of the city’s many entertainment options. stay overnight in Füssen or return to Munich. sitting under an umbrella at a cafe. Freiburg’s lovely Münster (cathedral) and its surrounding square constitute the main sights in town. Spend the day strolling in the sun (if the sun cooperates). valleys. but the Deutsches Museum. and a famous casino. so just take it easy. Some small Bavarian village with a cozy Gasthaus (guesthouse) may catch your fancy. resort-oriented town offers fine hotels and restaurants. or taking a boat ride on the lake to the garden island of Mainau. On Day 9. you may want to consider renting a car for the next four days. you can happily spend a few hours strolling through old streets lined by Bächle (little streams). travel time is about the same. This scenic area of forested hills. theater. Stay overnight in Munich. enjoy a stroll through Füssen’s lovely historic quarter. but doing so is not essential. take in another museum. You need at least two hours to visit the entire complex. This wine town has vineyards nearby and yearly wine festivals. many expensive shops. Take your pick of cities to stay in. After lunch near Marienplatz. If you have a car.44 Part I: Introducing Germany Gallery) their top priority. If you opt for Baden-Baden. and clubs. from Munich make your way to Füssen. 6. about 11⁄2 hours farther north by train. is one of the most popular museums in the country. you can continue on to Lindau. symphony. If you have a car. devoted to science and industry. your destination on Day 11. From Munich or Füssen. its hiking and recreational sports facilities. beer halls. Give yourself some leeway with time because the crowds can be dense. where Ludwig spent his childhood. Lindau’s sunny charms are reminiscent of Italy. is one of Germany’s premier spa towns. Even if you’re driving from Füssen. Germany’s sunny southwestern corner comes as a surprise to many visitors. If you’re without a car. stroll in the lovely Englischer Garten and stop for a drink or a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. In Freiburg. Munich’s gigantic “in town” palace. By car or train. if the afternoon is fine. But first. You have innumerable ways to spend the evening in this cultural mecca: opera. Then. This upscale. beer gardens. and its cuckoo clocks. the country’s largest lake and one of the largest bodies of water in Europe. You’ve no doubt heard about the Schwarzwald. . The area has no important museums. Baden-Baden. or Black Forest. Stay overnight in Munich. pop concerts. or Lake Constance. Here you find the Bodensee.5km (4 miles) from the most famous tourist attraction in all of Germany: Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle. exploring the Bavarian Alps along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse (German Alpine Road). the trip to Lindau for Day 10 is about three hours by train. a world-famous baroque masterpiece. Start Day 8 with a self-guided tour of the Residenz. You can also visit neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle. At night.

you can fly home from Frankfurt. Hike or take the funicular train up the hillside to the famed Heidelberg Castle for a stunning view of the town and the river valley. If you have time in any of these cities before your flight departs. formal restaurant awaiting the main course. a picturesque area alongside the Pegnitz River. Everyone seems to love this ancient university town on the Neckar River. On Day 12. When it comes time to eat. especially on a warm evening when your table is in the courtyard near the fountain. hop on the Bahn (train) in Heidelberg and in 31⁄2 to 4 hours. Stop in at the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate) for a look at Tilman Riemenschneider’s powerfully carved altarpiece. head back to Berlin. You find squares with lovely fountains. for example. I slant this very general itinerary toward outdoor activities and give other options only when they seem relevant. and fine Gothic churches. which covers the entire spectrum of German fine arts from its prehistoric beginnings to the present day. where your tour began. The Altstadt (Old Town) is where you want to stay and where you want to wander. or from Munich. you’re in Nürnberg (or Nuremberg. Then take a relaxing boat ride down the Neckar. No kid I know wants to spend two hours wandering around a museum admiring old master paintings. you can pay a few euros more and request an extra bed. if you’re in the mood. Give yourself at least two hours to visit the marvelous Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). . the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). Find a cafe to sit and people-watch while you plan your next trip to Germany. or seated in a quiet. at the ones that don’t. The castle is mostly in ruins. On Day 14. (Alternatively. but you can take a tour of some restored rooms. a 125-year-old mineralbath establishment. stop at the Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) for a glimpse of the toys for which this city has long been famous. On Day 13.) Sit back and enjoy the scenery. Discovering Germany with Kids Face it: Traveling with kids isn’t easy. As in many German cities. the entire Altstadt is a pedestrian zone.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 45 be sure to “take the waters” at Friedrichsbad. make your way to Heidelberg. You face difficulties in the basic areas of food choices and sightseeing options. one of the most attractive towns in Germany. Luckily. which is less than an hour by train from Baden-Baden or 21⁄2 to 3 hours from Freiburg. The train ride from Nuremberg is about 51⁄2 hours. or visiting a castle — appeal to kids just because of the novelty. just wander around without an itinerary. as it’s known in English). Some hotels let children stay for free in their parents’ room. And then. under two hours from Nuremberg. some aspects of traveling in Germany — taking a train. the experience takes about 31⁄2 hours. a little more than two hours by train from Nuremberg. to catch your flight home. The museum’s restaurant is one of the nicest places to dine in Heidelberg.

The Schloss (palace) is a breeze to get to (it’s right in the city on the streetcar line). The area around . On Day 3. be sure to catch the Glockenspiel show at 11 a. You also can reach the castle by bus or horse-drawn cab. and some intriguing buildings. a sunny flower-filled resort town that sits on its own small island in the Bodensee. dance in the meadows. the best outdoor market in Germany and a great place to have a casual lunch. but some of them are shorter and easy enough for children. If you didn’t make it to the Deutsches Museum the day before. you’ll also find American-style fast-food restaurants in all midsize and large cities). on the spire of the Rathaus. The forested hills all around Neuschwanstein and neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle are full of excellent hiking paths. Here you’re going to ascend the Zugspitze. Most hikes take an energetic four to five hours. Public transportation is a priority in every German city.). with formal. the largest science and technology museum in the world.m. “Mad” Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle. where you can wander along the tree-shaded walks. A cog railway and a cable car take you up and bring you back — a fascinating treat for kids. you may want to take a train or subway over to the Englischer Garten (English Garden). It’s loaded with interesting stuff for kids and adults. or even outdoor food stands (yes.720 ft. Stay overnight in Garmisch. On Day 2. including an 18th-century swimming pool and a baroque hunting lodge.960m/9. Spend Day 1 in Munich. Later. The entire inner city is a car-free pedestrian zone where you and your kids can stroll with ease. Germany’s highest peak (2. Germany’s mostvisited tourist attraction perches on a rocky spur that requires a good uphill hike to reach. so you and the kids can easily walk everywhere. You can find plenty of outdoor cafes around Marienplatz. Right next to Marienplatz is the Viktualienmarkt. The view from the summit is — what else? — spectacular. By car or train make your way to Lindau. you can head over there in the afternoon. French-style gardens behind the palace and an English-style park with quiet meadows. Lindau is virtually car-free. or sit in the famous beer garden (nonalcoholic refreshments available for the kids). the other kind are not. Just remember one thing: Wellbehaved children are smiled upon in Germany. and then drive or take a bus to Neuschwanstein.46 Part I: Introducing Germany look for casual bistros. forested paths. Drive or take the train to Füssen on Day 4. one of the largest and most beautiful city parks in Europe. with easy access and reduced rates for kids. Good skiing and ice-skating are available all winter. you can rent a car or take the train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps south of Munich. and 500-acre Nymphenburg Park is grand and inviting. Bodensee (Lake Constance) is your destination for Day 5. while there. the city’s main square. Stay overnight in Füssen and explore the charming old town on foot. cafes. Alternatively. the area around Garmisch-Partenkirchen is magnificent hiking country. If you’re a dedicated hiker. head over to the kid-friendly Deutsche Museum. Schloss Nymphenburg is on the top of your list.

On this drive. Head to Cologne on the River Rhine for Day 2. Or you may want to rent a car in Frankfurt for the duration of the trip. you can hop on a train on Day 1 and be in Freiburg in about two hours. In the Rheingau wine district. On the last weekend in June.750-ft. see Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee and Chapter 19 for Cologne and sights along the Rhine. Spend the night in Lindau. Ride the train or drive north to Freiburg. a lively university town in the Black Forest. is another scenic winegrowing region and your destination on Day 3. Weinkost is another wine-tasting event in mid-August. a scenic winegrowing region. Most of the grapes grow on the warm lower slopes of the nearby Kaiserstühl (Emperor’s Throne). by car or boat. a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine between the towns of Biebrich and Bingen. light Silvaner wine is an ideal accompaniment to Spargel (white asparagus) in May. is surrounded by 1. you can explore the neighboring wine country. From Freiburg you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Schwarzwald. and to the 1. You can bike along the shore or relax on an excursion boat ride to the island of Mainau. and the lake is clean enough for swimming.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 47 Bodensee is Germany’s sunniest corner. From Frankfurt airport. a volcanic massif. The trip begins and ends in Frankfurt. the city celebrates with a four-day wine festival that includes public tastings. The young. On Day 7 make your way back to Frankfurt or Munich for the trip home. If you’re traveling by train. You can drive through this area on a daytrip from Cologne. the Schluchsee and Titisee. Rheingau Rieslings rank among the best white wines made anywhere. a plant-lover’s paradise. southwest of Cologne.450m (4. From Cologne. The valley follows the course of . your headquarters in the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) on Day 6. The Mosel Valley.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. a famous mile-high peak with spectacular views of the Rhine plain. For more information. You may want to incorporate this four-day itinerary into a longer trip. For a great meal with regional wines. I suggest that you rent a car for just one day. Or you can take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz. with stops for short hikes and cable-car rides to the top of the Belchen. How about that — the kids actually had a good time! Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers When you raise a glass of wine in Germany. This itinerary takes you to the wine regions in western Germany. you can stop at two Black Forest lakes. The train trip from Freiburg takes about four hours. wine has been produced since Roman times. Freiburg. more than any other city in Germany. the toast often is a simple “Prosit!” (pronounced prohst). the oldest inn in Freiburg. dine at Zum Roten Bären.600 acres of vineyards.

a convivial spot to sample Germany’s many fine vintages. The half-timbered Alte Thorschenke in Cochem. If you have a few more days. make your way back to Frankfurt on Day 4. From Cochem. Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. a picturesque wine village surrounded by vineyards and a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. Between late April and the third week in October. look for the local Weinstube (wine tavern).48 Part I: Introducing Germany the Mosel River for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. The easiest way to enjoy a cruise down the Mosel River is to take a train to Koblenz. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. Beautiful scenery and fine wines make this a prime area for leisurely exploration. cruises depart daily from Koblenz to Cochem. celebrates the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. Wherever you go. or Freiburg. both a hotel and a wine restaurant. which takes place the first week in June. Cologne. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). . you can continue your tasting tour of Germany.

Part II Planning Your Trip to Germany .

In Chapter 7. In Chapter 8. explaining what hotel rack rates are. In Chapter 5. using cellphones and staying connected by e-mail in Germany. and offering suggestions for landing the best room at the best price. including information on which airlines fly into Germany. buying travel and medical insurance. I get into the nittygritty of Geld — that is. . . I go over the transportation options for getting you to Germany. and adhering to airport security measures. I offer advice and tips for visitors with special needs and interests: families traveling with children. I discuss all the various accommodations options. money — so you have an approximate idea of what things cost and how to use ATMs. car. In Chapter 6. credit cards. gay and lesbian travelers. In Chapter 9. his part helps you with the practical details of planning your trip to Germany.T In this part . outlining the kinds of hotels and guesthouses that you’ll find. seniors. I load Chapter 10 with information about getting a passport. and how to get the best fare. and boat. I tell you about traveling through Germany by train. guided and package tours. or traveler’s checks. and Jewish travelers. plane. .

entertainment. In the following sections. your trip to Germany — even if you visit Munich and/or Berlin. Adding everything up. for instance? And how much is a meal in a nice restaurant after you get there? This chapter points you toward all the answers. I tell you about flying to Germany and help you with some strategies for finding . transportation while there. Transportation costs Your first big outlay is going to be for airfare. or Los Angeles. meals. meaning money). a financial reality check is in order. you need to break down your trip into its various components: airfare. To come up with a workable figure. You’re excited and eager to pack. the two German airports with several direct international flights. hotels. But can you really afford the trip? At this point. Although you may think a trip to Germany is prohibitively expensive because of the transatlantic flight. and so on. the two most expensive German cities — can actually cost less than a trip to New York.Chapter 5 Managing Your Money In This Chapter ᮣ Planning a realistic budget for your trip ᮣ Changing your dollars into euros ᮣ Using ATMs. San Francisco. and credit cards ᮣ Dealing with theft and loss ᮣ Paying and recouping German sales tax ᮣ Knowing when — and how — to tip S o. traveler’s checks. So this chapter is all about Geld (pronounced gelt. You may have heard that Germany is an expensive country — but just how expensive? What does a hotel in Munich cost? How much does a train ticket cost for travel from Berlin down to Bavaria. you often can find bargain airfares to Frankfurt and Munich. I provide vital clues on how to create a realistic budget that works for you. you want to go to Germany. Planning Your Budget Planning a budget for your trip to Germany isn’t as difficult as you may think. In Chapter 6.

You can order them through a travel agent or by calling Rail Europe at % 888-382-7245 in the United States. . I talk more about these cost-cutting train passes and the popular Eurailpass in Chapter 7.200 during high season. and easy to use. or by going online to www.52 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the cheapest airline fares. Berlin.raileurope.000 in high season. Special reduced-price transportation passes are good for a full day (Tageskarten) or longer on all forms of public transportation. Keep in mind. including advance purchase.S. Frankfurt. Many larger cities have special passes that include public transportation and free or reduced-price admission to various attractions. 800-361-7245 in Canada. You can also tour by train throughout the whole of Germany without ever renting a car. such as Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. Finding flights that cost less is quite possible. to Frankfurt is possible for about $600 to $900 during low season and $800 to $1. and Cologne all have subway systems called the U-Bahn (short for Untergrundbahn. In smaller towns and cities of Germany. you can save money by buying a German Rail Pass before you leave home. having a car makes exploration of the countryside much easier. That saves you a bundle. Based on my own experience. U-Bahns are fast. you may need to take a local bus or taxi from the nearest town (Füssen. or Old Town. Here’s some good news: You won’t need to rent a car in any German city because public transportation is so good. If you don’t want to walk. If you’re planning to travel around Germany by train. but so is finding flights that cost a whole lot more. round-trip fare from a major city on the West Coast of the U. Hamburg. Munich. such as Bavaria and the Black Forest. The passes make getting around German cities fairly inexpensive (approximately $6–$8 per day). you probably can find flights for $400 to $800 in low season and $700 to $1. Please note that these are ballpark figures for economy-class seats found by using every cost-saving trick in the book. The same cities also have light-rail or aboveground trains called the S-Bahn and a system of trams or streetcars and buses. I mention these moneysaving cards in the city sections of this guide whenever they’re available and worthwhile. or underground train). because city centers are so compact and close to the train stations. The next transportation expense to consider is dependent upon how you plan to travel around Germany after you arrive. that in some areas. convenient. From New York or Boston. you can walk almost everywhere. you can hop on a bus or tram. The historic inner-city area of German cities nearly always is called the Altstadt. I can tell you that finding a nonstop. for Neuschwanstein) to the castle. If you’re traveling by train and want to see some of Germany’s great castles.

breakfast. Of course. Overall. including breakfast. hotels offer special price breaks for weekends (Wochenende) and during the summer (generally July and Aug). for instance. In nearly every town and village throughout Germany. After that. you hit the high end of 226€ ($282) and up. In recent years. the price drops so dramatically that you can stay in a double room at a five-star luxury hotel for less than 175€ ($219) per night. traditional German food also is ganz schmackhaftig (very tasty). In some cases. or some other kind of nonfancy restaurant where you can dine inexpensively and well and where you can enjoy your meal among the locals. however. you’ll find that hotels throughout Germany are reasonably priced (and practically a bargain when compared to prices in other European countries). generally from 80€ to 150€ ($100–$188) per double room per night. but you’ll find that many of the best restaurants in Berlin. giving a reliable average is difficult. But because rates vary from one hotel to the next. Make sure to ask about special deals wherever you stay. Although that may be true. hotel rates are lower. a Weinstube (restaurant where wine is the primary beverage served). 2-star. Food in Germany often is characterized as heavy.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 53 Lodging expenses A large piece of your budget will be the cost of your hotel or other accommodations. large cities like Berlin and Munich have emerged as international food capitals. isn’t the only cuisine you’ll find in Germany. Moderate hotels run from 126€ to 175€ ($158–$218). Nearly all hotels throughout Germany (except for boutique or 5-star luxury hotels) include a buffet breakfast as part of the room rate. Traditional food. you can always find a double room in a good hotel in Germany for less than 150€ ($188) a night and sometimes for less than 100€ ($125) a night. offer bed. See Chapter 8 for information on what to expect in each price range and for a discussion of your lodging options and how to get the best rate. and so on). especially in some of the truly elegant five-star properties. For the recommendations in this guide. and elsewhere offer special fixed-price meals that can be real bargains. But you can still find plenty of opportunities to drop a king’s ransom for a hotel. Many hotels in the Bavarian countryside. a beer hall. depending on their respective government-appointed categories (1-star. however. is going to cost. and a full dinner at bargain prices. . and expensive hotels cost from 176€ to 225€ ($220–$281). eating at top restaurants. generally are less than 125€ ($156). That cost will be higher in Munich and Berlin than anywhere else in Germany. Munich. no matter where you are. however. the rates at inexpensive hotels in Munich or Berlin. As a general rule. Throughout the country. Outside of Munich and Berlin. the major cities. you can find a Ratskeller (restaurant beneath a town hall). lunch.

25) round-trip. is kostenlos (free). Finding a museum that costs more than 8€ ($10) is rare. You know what . and that doesn’t include beer or wine. Sightseeing expenses Your budget for admission fees depends. sightseeing in Germany is fairly inexpensive. Kurfürstendamm or Unter den Linden. If you eat breakfast at a cafe rather than your hotel. Strolling down Berlin’s great avenues. And some of the top sights — such as the Reichstag in Berlin or the Frauenkirche and Englischer Garten in Munich — are free. you can expect to pay from 35€ to 50€ ($44–$62) per person per day (assuming your hotel rate includes breakfast). Admission to Neuschwanstein. Hamburg. or viewing the Brandenburg Gate. expect your daily food cost to be about 25€ to 40€ ($31–$50). the top attraction is a cable car that can whisk you to the top of a famous peak for a spectacular view. and back again. Afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) sets you back about 7€ or 8€ ($9 or $10) anywhere in Germany.50–$9) anywhere in the country. Munich. of course. and you’re content with coffee and a roll at a stand-up counter (or a Starbucks). for example — sell special “Welcome” cards that get you into several museums for a reduced rate. costs only 8€ ($10). a buffet breakfast nearly always is included in your hotel cost. on what you want to see. exploring by foot in almost any German town is a good way to soak up the local culture free of charge. Throughout most of Germany. food is more expensive in big cities like Berlin and Munich. Germany’s highest mountain. if you’re a senior or a student. You don’t have to buy anything at all. In fact. you can often get a reducedprice admission. Sightseeing boat excursions typically are 8€ to 15€ ($10–$19). The major cities — Berlin. As a general rule. In addition.50€ to 7€ ($4. and you can hit the sack right after dinner instead of going to a concert or dancing at a club. But remember. When eating lunch and dinner at moderately priced restaurants in Berlin.25) for admission to museums and local attractions outside of the big cities. Only at luxury hotels do you have to pay extra for breakfast — usually 18€ to 22€ ($22–$27) — but the buffet breakfast invariably is fabulous. Outside of Berlin or Munich. expect to pay from 3€ to 5€ ($2. unless you splurge on really high-priced restaurants.75–$6. depending on the duration of the trip.54 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany As with hotels. The most expensive ride is to the top of the Zugspitze. In some locations. generally around 5€ ($6. dinner for two at a good. Most cable cars cost much less. mid-priced restaurant averages about 28€ ($35) including beer. Fortunately. City sightseeing tours by bus cost from 10€ to 24€ ($13–$30). the cost for adults is 45€ ($56). expect to pay about 3. Shopping and nightlife costs Shopping and entertainment are the most flexible parts of your budget. the Bavarian castle that is Germany’s top attraction.

50) 5. the highest undiscounted rate charged by a hotel. Keep in mind that the hotel rates I quote here are rack rates. If anything strikes you as something you can’t do without.75) 6€–8€ ($7. Tables 5-1 and 5-2 give you an idea of what things typically cost in Berlin and the rest of the country.50–$10) 3. and an opera ticket in either Berlin or Munich anywhere from 10€ to 80€ ($13–$100). at Die Quadriga ($$$$) Dinner for one.10). (Keep in mind that a small beer sets you back about 2. at Noodle ($–$$) Cafe meal for one at Café Silberstein ($) Sausage at a stand-up snack stand ($) 115€–150€ ($144–$187) 65€–97€ ($111–$121) 60€ ($75) 30€ ($37) 15€ ($19) 10€ ($13) 3€ ($3.10€ ($2.25).10€ ($2.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 55 you want.40) (continued) Kaffee und kuchen at a cafe or stand-up coffee shop ($) Large glass of beer at a cafe. excluding wine.25). excluding wine. Berlin. at Marjellchen ($$–$$$) Meal for one. At mid-price and luxury hotels you can almost always find a lower rate that the one listed here simply by checking the hotel’s Web site and booking in advance. budget accordingly.80€ ($7. a glass of good German wine about 5€ ($6. Table 5-1 Item What Things Cost in Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 2.50€ ($3. Flip through the shopping and nightlife options of each destination chapter. but drinks other than beer can be pricey. or tavern . bar. is a late-night city.25) 330€–490€ ($412–$612) Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by bus Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by taxi One-way U-Bahn (subway) fare within central Berlin Tageskarte one-day public transportation pass for two zones Double room without breakfast at Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) Double room with breakfast at Brandenburger Hof ($$$$) 245€–295€ ($306–$369) Double room with breakfast at Hotel Domus ($$–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Arco Hotel ($–$$) Dinner for one.50€ ($4. so you may want to check out the club scene while you’re there. excluding wine.50) 20€ ($25) 2. especially. cover charges are rarely more than 5€ ($6.

at Der Kleine Prinz. excluding wine. Rothenburg ob der Tauber ($–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Hotel-Garni Brugger. excluding wine. at Hofbräuhaus. including one glass of beer. Dresden ($) Fixed-price dinner for one.56 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Table 5-1 (continued) Item Admission to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). ticket good for same-day admission to several other museums Admission to the Altes or Pergamon Museum (one ticket good for both on same day) Admission to Charlottenburg Palace and palace museums Opera ticket Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 23€–75€ ($29–$94) Table 5-2 Item What Things Cost Outside Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 50€ ($62)/34€ ($40) 151€ ($189)/96€ ($120) 190€–215€ ($237–$269) 90€–170€ ($112–$212) 86€–92€ ($107–$115) 139€–282€ ($174–$352) 57€–75€ ($71–$94) 12€ ($15) 35€–43€ ($44–$54) 20€ ($25) 8€ ($10) First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Dresden First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Munich Double room with breakfast at Der Kleine Prinz. Munich ($) Admission to Neuschwanstein Castle. Baden-Baden ($$$–$$$$) Double room with breakfast at Burg Hotel. excluding beer. Munich ($$$–$$$$) Fixed-price dinner for one. at Café Schinkelwache. Lindau ($) Double room with breakfast at Eden-Hotel-Wolf. Freiburg ($$$) Dinner for one. Bavaria . Baden-Baden ($$$$) Lunch for one. at Zum Röten Bären.

you’ll find hotel prices are as much as 20 percent less than during peak months. The same is true for July and August. In general. If you can travel on a Tuesday.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money Item Admission to Zwinger Palace (all museums).75) 25€–80€ ($31–$100) 29€ ($36) 5. you can book airfare.50€ ($10)/3€ ($3. When you inquire about airfares. airline. which means more beds are available in German hotels. or packager — and you’ll pay much less than if you tried to put the trip together yourself (see Chapter 6). If you can travel at off-season times (Oct–Nov and Jan–Mar). and even some sightseeing by making just one call to a travel agent. Dresden Admission to Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery).250) 70€ ($87) Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun Throughout this book. ߜ Try a package tour. Munich. Munich Opera ticket. ߜ Travel on off days of the week. Because more rooms are available. Bargain Alert icons (like the one in the left margin) highlight money-saving tips and/or great deals. or other groups may qualify you for discounts on . Baden-Baden Tank of unleaded gas. or Berlin. prices go down. Generalizing about airfares is difficult because the entire industry is changing all the time. Wednesday. Membership in AAA. Sound odd? Not really. Munich Adult/child admission to Deutsches Museum (Science and Industry). Dresden Complete bath and massage treatment at Friedrichsbad. frequent-flier plans. Baden-Baden Average losses at gambling tables.000€ ($6. ߜ Always ask for discount rates. Here are some additional cost-cutting strategies: ߜ Go during the off season. hotel. For popular destinations like Frankfurt and Munich. ground transportation. be sure to ask whether you can get a cheaper rate by flying on a specific day. which are peak travel months for Germans but often a time of lower hotel prices. you may find cheaper flights to Frankfurt. AARP. Germans tend to travel outside of Germany on their holidays. Semper Opera House. economy car 57 10€ ($13) 4€ ($5) Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8. or Thursday. airfares vary depending on the day of the week and even the hour you fly.

do without the T-shirts. Bavarian hats. Notes are . A room with two double beds usually doesn’t cost any more than one with a queensize bed. At most top restaurants in Berlin and Munich. 1€. Regardless of where you travel in Germany. 2¢. ߜ Walk a lot. Most German cities are compact and eminently walkable. And many hotels won’t charge you the additional-person rate when that person is pint-size and related to you. and students with ID. Even if you have to pay a few extra euros for a rollaway bed. If you’re worried about your budget. The amount of money you save with a rail pass depends on how often you use it and how far you go. ߜ Travel second class. ߜ Know the advantages and disadvantages of buying a rail pass before you leave home. One euro is divided into one hundred cents. 5¢. and 2€. Germany’s unit of currency changed from the Deutsche Mark to the euro. To encourage year-round tourism. and off-season special offers. hotel rooms. you save a bundle by not taking two rooms. beer steins. 20¢. or Old Town. That’s what the Germans do. ߜ Ask if your kids can stay in your room with you. Coins come in denominations of 1¢. midweek. and guided tours booked before you go. Your photographs and memories make the best mementos of your trip. and the trinkets sold at major tourist attractions. children. buying your local train tickets in Germany is cheaper. you get to know the city and its inhabitants more intimately. car rentals. and the menu often includes many of the dinnertime specialties. key chains. First-class train tickets generally cost about one-third more than standard second-class tickets. cuckoo clocks. ߜ Ask about weekend. Sometimes these special rates are offered as romantic getaway packages and include dinner and a glass of wine. As a bonus. ߜ Skip the souvenirs. always look for value-added fixed-price menus. Each usually has a historic Altstadt. (See Chapter 8 for some recommended Web sites. prices at lunch are lower than those at dinner. 50¢. many hotels in Germany offer special price breaks on weekends or midweek during the off season. Handling Money In January 2002. Surfing the Web is the best way to find out about special packages at specific hotels.) ߜ Try expensive restaurants at lunch rather than dinner. 10¢.58 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany plane tickets. A good pair of walking shoes can save you money on taxis and other local transportation. that contains most of the attractions and is within walking distance of the train station. If you’re headquartering in one city and making side trips to nearby towns. Attractions within Germany usually offer a lower admission rate for seniors. and you can explore at a slower pace. check the back of your ATM card for the network to which your bank belongs. If you’ve forgotten yours. I round it off to the nearest nickel. shapes. Cirrus (% 800-424-7787. As with any unfamiliar currency. euros take a bit of getting used to. and they generally offer relatively good exchange It usually takes five to seven business days. and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time your card is used at a different bank’s ATM. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad. if more than $10. 50. which fluctuates daily. The exchange rate.) When you’re about to leave on your trip. many banks now assess a 1 percent to 3 percent “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency). provided you know your PIN. The coins have different and PLUS (% 800-8437587.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 59 available in 5. price is less than $10. Using ATMs and carrying cash The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an automated teller machine (ATM). is the rate you get when you use your own currency to buy euros. or didn’t even know you had one. and 500 denominations. Charging ahead with credit cards Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses. Make sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home. 20. In addition. 200. You also can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs. I use this approximate exchange rate for prices in this book. the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own ATM fee. Each bank-note denomination has its own are the most popular networks. 1€ = $1. In German cities. At some banks. and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. 10. the amount you can withdraw must be in a checking (not a savings) account. to the nearest dollar. (If the U. call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. and outside banks. www. and weights according to value. You also can check currency conversions online at www. you find 24-hour ATMs (often called Geldautomat) in airports. check with your bank or look in the newspaper to find out the current rate. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you .S. though some banks provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. train stations. www. In general. 100.

Cashing traveler’s checks is more timeconsuming and can end up costing more because you must go to a bank or money-exchange service and pay a check-cashing fee. Even if you don’t call your credit-card company in advance. In smaller German towns and villages. many tourist information offices. You pay a service charge ranging from 1 percent to 4 percent. $500.m. to 10 p.60 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany factor in things like high ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates and service fees. you can always call the card’s toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused — a good reason to carry the phone number with you.m. Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the service charge. traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that enable you to withdraw (usually for a fee) small amounts of cash as needed. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide and at several other banks. Banks generally are open weekdays from 8:30 a. post offices countrywide. American Express offers denominations of $20. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling % 800-221-7282. Currencyexchange windows in airports and rail stations generally are open daily from 6 a. Some credit-card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges. and American Express offices. $100. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. Call % 800-732-1322 for information. to 1 p. as do some restaurants. AAA members can get Visa checks for a $9.m.95 fee at most AAA offices or by calling % 866-339-3378. . all major rail stations.000. Call % 800-223-9920 for a location near you. a card may not work for any number of reasons. so having a backup is the smart way to go. $100. and $1. and (for cardholders only) $1. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. many pensions (B&Bs) with one to three guest rooms operate on a cash-only basis. These services are available in German airports.m. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip. any branch of a major bank. $50. The service charge ranges between 1.5 percent and 2 percent. $500. $50.000.m. Changing your currency in Germany You can easily change cash or traveler’s checks by using a currency-exchange service called a Geldwechsel or bureau de change. checks come in denominations of $20. Toting traveler’s checks These days. and 2:30 to 4 p.

equifax. www. the airline may allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed. Heidelberg. For addresses of Citibanks in go online to www. call your airline and explain the situation. you can have money wired to you via Western Union (% 800-325-6000. . You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately. especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit Dresden. If your credit card gets lost or stolen while you’re in Germany. www. www. Citibank customers using ATMs at German branches of Citibank don’t pay additional withdrawal fees. call the toll-free number directory at % 800-5551212. and Munich. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (% 800-766-0008.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 61 If you choose to carry traveler’s checks. Find Citibank branches in Berlin. be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in case they’re stolen or lost. and Munich. and file a report at the nearest police precinct. they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Cologne. Finally. if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID. Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet. You can avoid paying a second commission fee by using American Express traveler’s checks and cashing them at an American Express office. American Express has offices in Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet Be sure to contact all your credit-card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. You can find addresses for American Express offices throughout Germany at www. www. The three major U.citibank.S. Hamburg. americanexpress. Experian (% 888-3973742. transunion. Most credit-card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen.westernunion. Your credit-card company or insurer may require a police-report number or record of the Leipzig. when all banks and American Express offices are placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. call the following numbers: ߜ American Express % 954-503-8850 (collect) ߜ MasterCard % 0800/819-1040 (toll-free) ߜ Visa % 0800/811-8440 (toll-free) or 417-581-9994 (collect) For other credit cards. Leipzig. among other cities. Frankfurt. and TransUnion (% 800-680-7289. If you need emergency cash during the weekend. Cologne.

Before checking your luggage upon your departure from Germany. This hefty percentage already is figured into the total prices of consumer goods and hotel and restaurant bills. service charges are included in the bill. border crossings. When you make a qualifying purchase. (The general hotel and restaurant prices in this book include VAT. you can get a VAT refund on purchases made in Germany (excluding hotel and restaurant bills). you can add 5 percent to 10 percent to your bill. you receive a tax-free voucher. amounts to 16 percent.62 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Taking Taxes into Account Germany’s version of a sales tax. and you can’t avoid paying it. of course.25 per bag carried) and doormen who hail you a cab (1€/$1. To receive a refund. or round up to the next euro. if the service has been very good. unless. shop at stores displaying a Tax-Free Shopping sign. you’re staying in an expensive hotel with porters who carry your bags (1€/$1. A Tip about Tipping As a general rule. Germany isn’t a country where you must tip excessively.) This tax isn’t a hidden expense.25 per successful hail). redeem the voucher for cash (euros or dollars) at a Europe Tax-Free Shopping window. ferry ports. and railroad stations. If you’re not a resident of the European Union. Then. In restaurants. located at all major airports. called the Mehrwertsteuer (abbreviated MWST) or value-added tax (abbreviated VAT). have the voucher stamped by German Customs to confirm that the goods have been exported. . Otherwise. Most stores have a minimum amount that you must spend to qualify for the refund. which must be completed by the store and must have a copy of your sales receipt attached to it.

Copenhagen. In this chapter. Houston. Detroit.. Berlin (one flight only). Miami. nonstop flights? How can you save money on your flight (and your hotel)? What are the pros and cons of taking an escorted tour? You find answers to your basic travel questions here. and Düsseldorf. is Germany’s main international hub. Germany’s national carrier (now partnered with United Airlines and Air Canada). Newark. and other cities in Germany. Munich. Chicago. but direct flights from the United States fly only into Frankfurt. has direct flights to Frankfurt from Atlanta. Paris. See the appendix at the back of this book for a list of the main international carriers with direct flights into Germany from the United States. Flying into Frankfurt Frankfurt airport. or London. and from Toronto and Vancouver. but if you’re coming from the United States. the United Kingdom. . an airport is called a Flughafen (floog-haf-en). You also can fly to Cologne. that is). New York JFK. Portland (Oregon). Stuttgart. Nuremberg. D.C. Philadelphia. What are your options for direct. you’re going to need to find a way to hop across that little puddle called the Atlantic. The following airlines offer direct flights: ߜ Lufthansa. Germany has several airports. I discuss getting you to Germany. and Washington.Chapter 6 Getting to Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Deciding which German city to fly into ᮣ Saving on airfare and booking online ᮣ Arriving in Germany by train or boat ᮣ Joining an escorted tour ᮣ Finding out how a package tour can save you money N ow that you’ve decided to visit Deutschland (Germany. Los Angeles. Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where In Germany. Boston. Canada. called Flughafen Frankfurt Main. these routes require a change of planes — usually in Frankfurt. and Australia. Dallas/Fort Worth. San Francisco. Amsterdam.

Chicago. and Miami. this airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world (completely accessible for the disabled). and Washington. ߜ Delta Air Lines has daily nonstops from Newark and Atlanta. Flying into other German airports Here’s a brief rundown of other major airports in Germany and some of the airlines that fly into them. and British Airways flies nonstop from London. British Airways and British Midland fly direct to Cologne from the United Kingdom.64 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ American Airlines has nonstop service to Frankfurt from Dallas/ Fort Worth. Direct flights also are scheduled from most major European cities. Delta currently is the only airline that flies direct to Berlin from New York. For more information on the Frankfurt airport.C. I give you more specific information about how to get into the city from the airport. is Germany’s second-largest airport. Chicago. Although no direct flights are scheduled from the U. ߜ Qantas flies to Frankfurt from Melbourne and Sydney. Delta flies nonstop from Atlanta. Leipzig. and you’re close to Hamburg and the northern Hanseatic cities (see Chapter 13). hop on a train. ߜ Cologne: Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn is a good spot to land whenever you’re planning to tour western Germany and the Rhineland wine country. but you probably will fly into Tegel. Australia. ߜ Berlin: Berlin has two airports.S. From Berlin. and Weimar (see all in Chapter 14). Opened in 1992. . ߜ British Airways flies direct to Frankfurt from London. located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. See Chapter 11 for a complete description of Berlin’s airports. Lufthansa flies nonstop to Munich from Newark. you can easily reach other cities in eastern Germany by train. which is quite small but has easy public transportation into central Berlin. so you can fly in. ߜ Northwest Airlines (partnered with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines) flies nonstop to Frankfurt from Boston.. see Chapter 20. Minneapolis/St.C. Paul. Boston. Excursion boats leave from Cologne for trips on the Rhine and other German rivers (see Chapter 19). See Chapter 15 for more about flying into Munich. Chicago. ߜ United Airlines offers nonstop service to Frankfurt from Chicago and Washington. JFK. ߜ Munich: Franz Josef Strauss International Airport. D. The airport has its own train station. and be off to your first destination. and San Francisco. Flights to other cities in Germany from Frankfurt rarely take more than 11⁄2 hours. In each city section of this guide. D. especially Dresden.

particularly to Europe. Business travelers who need the flexibility of being able to buy their tickets at the last minute and changing their itineraries at a moment’s notice — and who want to get home before the weekend — pay a premium rate. reaching the Rhine Valley is easy. and January through March in Germany. British Midland has flights from London. www. STA Travel (% 800-781-4040. These fares have advance-purchase requirements and date-of-travel restrictions. If you can book your ticket far in advance. which tend to take place in seasons of low travel volume: October. Lufthansa and Continental offer direct flights from Newark.1800flycheap. www. but they often can’t beat the Internet. The airlines also periodically hold sales in which they lower the prices on their most popular routes. Obviously. airlines is unlike that of any other industry. Aer Lingus flies nonstop from Dublin. and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. . or Thurs). From Düsseldorf. As you plan your vacation.statravel. planning ahead pays. Wed. often as high as 50 percent to 75 percent of the ticket (% 800/TRAV-800. Every airline offers virtually the same product (basically. known as the full is owned by package-holiday . and you’re willing to travel midweek (Tues. .com). Consolidators. ߜ Hamburg: Direct flights to Flughafen Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel are scheduled from most major European cities. but none arrive directly from the United States. Getting the best airfare Competition among the major U.S. you can qualify for the least-expensive price — usually a fraction of the full fare. ). Bucket-shop tickets usually are nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties. stay overnight Saturday. offers good fares for travelers of all ages. the world’s leader in student travel. but you can’t beat the prices.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 65 ߜ Düsseldorf: Although I don’t cover Düsseldorf in this guidebook (the closest city that I cover is Cologne in Chapter 19). are great sources for international tickets. Delta offers service from Atlanta via Paris. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. November. ELTExpress (Flights. keep your eyes open for these sales. FlyCheap (% 800-FLY-CHEAP [800-359-2432].com) has excellent fares worldwide. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections. a coach seat is a coach seat is a . you nevertheless can use the airport in Düsseldorf as an alternative to Cologne. such as Frankfurt and Munich. www. and yet prices can vary by hundreds of dollars.eltexpress. also known as bucket shops. and It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once” but in reality beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites is based in Montreal and leverages the Canadian-dollar exchange rate for low fares. and prompter service if your luggage is stolen or your flight is canceled or delayed. With more than 70 mileage awards programs on the market. sell most air tickets bought on the Internet.lastminute.66 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany megalith MyTravel and has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. of those carriers. in Europe often have better deals than the major-label sites. Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the airlines. which have the most advantageous alliances. given your most common routes. Most are valid for travel only that weekend. www. com). For last-minute trips. Expedia and Travelocity also will send you an e-mail notification whenever a cheap fare to your favorite destination becomes available. Travelocity (www. SideStep (www. consult Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer ( in the U. such as Smarter Travel (smartertravel. U. Air Tickets Direct (% 888-858-8884. use an opaque fare service like Priceline (www.) Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same flights. Consider which airlines have hubs in the airport nearest you. Of the smaller travel agency Web receives good reviews from users.travelocity.airtickets direct.expedia. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline Web sites or check megasites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute specials. Booking your flight online The “big three” online travel agencies.insideflyer. consumers have never had more options. residents can go for but some can be booked weeks or months in advance.sidestep. Both offer rock-bottom prices in exchange for traveling on a mystery airline at a mysterious time of and www. And you don’t have to fly to earn points. or if you want to change your seat. so shopping around is wise. Investigate the program details of your favorite airlines before you sink points into any Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a cent. If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight details. The mystery airlines all are major. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage. frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. and www. Expedia (www. often with a mysterious change of planes en and Orbitz (www. Most of these deals are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased online. but it does entitle you to better Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and or Hotwire (www.expedia.orbitz. (Canadian travelers need to try www.travelocity. faster response to phone inquiries. well-known carriers — and the possibility of being sent from New York .

m. Other helpful Web sites for booking airline tickets online include ߜ www. and Canada. promotional offers. have more than one station. I discuss traveling around Germany by train and the various rail passes that can cut down on transportation costs. Denmark. 800-361-7245 in Canada. But your chances of getting a 6 a. 114 in the U. such as Berlin and Hamburg. Priceline usually has better deals than Hotwire. but you have to play their “name our price” game. and Estonia. EuroCity (EC) trains connect Germany with neighboring countries.lastminutetravel. and from all directions. You can reach all major German cities by train with Arriving by Other Means Germany is accessible by land and sea. Norway. Trains are very much a part of the German (and European) travel ethic. For more information about trains in Europe. and sleek. www. In Chapter 7. Arriving by boat Germany’s northern coast lies along the North Sea and the Baltic and rail-pass prices.kayak. high-speed Thalys trains link Cologne and Düsseldorf with Paris and Brussels. provides ferry service from ߜ www. Sweden. International ferry services are available from the United ߜ to .m.. Russia.cheapflights. which usually is conveniently located. Latvia. England. Traveling by train Germany is extremely well connected by train to the rest of Europe. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you buy. ext.opodo. flight are pretty high.raileurope. but you almost always find one main or central inner-city station called a Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). are taken care of onboard the train. contact Rail Europe (% 888-3827245 in the ߜ www. or 11 p.biddingfortravel. Poland. Finland. Major cities. In every city section of this guide. DFDS Seaways (% 800-533-3755. When you’re traveling between ߜ www.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 67 to Frankfurt via Detroit is remote. I tell you how to get into the city center from the train station. Perhaps you’re flying into Paris and from there going on to Berlin or Heidelberg as part of your European dream vacation. Have no fear. such as passport checks. Its Web site provides useful trip-planning information on train schedules and travel times. www. border formalities. fares. so it’s easy to include Germany as part of a larger European trip.

but they should be able to give you a rough estimate.) When choosing an escorted tour. especially when the tour operator asks you to pay upfront.m.m. so you don’t encounter many surprises. ask a few simple questions before you buy: ߜ What is the cancellation policy? How late can you cancel if you can’t go? Do you get a refund if you cancel? Do you get a refund if the operator cancels? ߜ How jampacked is the schedule? Does the tour schedule try to fit 25 hours into a 24-hour day. sounds like a grind.68 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Hamburg. ߜ How big is the group? The smaller the group. find out what it is and how close they are to reaching it. tour operators may be evasive with their answers. Tour operators may be evasive about providing this fact. because they may not know the exact size of the group until everybody has made their reservations. If a quota exists. but drinks . ߜ Does the tour require a minimum group size? Some tour operators require a minimum group size and may cancel the tour when they don’t book enough people. but the information can help you select a tour that’s sure to take place. along with finding out whether you have to put down a deposit and when final payment is due. (I tell you more about travel insurance in Chapter 10. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. I strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance. If you decide to go with an escorted tour. Get travel insurance through an independent agency. ߜ What exactly is included? Don’t assume anything. But don’t buy insurance from the tour operator! If the tour operator doesn’t fulfill its obligation to provide you with the vacation you paid for. Again. Silja Lines (same telephone and Web site as for DFDS Seaways) sails from Helsinki across the Baltic to Rostock in northern Germany. certain escorted tours may not be for you. You may be required to get yourself to and from the airports at your own expense. Joining an Escorted Tour Some travelers to foreign destinations prefer escorted tours. the less time you spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. The tour company takes care of all the details and tells you what to expect on each leg of your journey. the journey takes 20 hours. you have no reason to think that the tour operator will fulfill its insurance obligations either. A box lunch may be included in an excursion. You know your costs upfront. every day and not returning to your hotel until 6 or 7 p. or does it give you ample time to relax or shop? If getting up at 7 a.

who then resell them to the public. A good travel agent can help you find a tour that suits your particular interests. Many escorted-tour companies cater to special provides escorted tours for 18. and Mainau (from $2. ߜ Contiki Holidays (% 866-CONTIKI. www. Canada. package tours can be a smart way to go.brendan vacations. Choosing a package tour For many destinations. hotel. and transportation to and from the airport costs less than the hotel alone on a tour you book yourself. such as castles on the Rhine for history buffs. Australia. and Prague (from $2. In many cases. Potsdam. including a stay in a castle on the Rhine and exploration of German vineyards. including Berlin. while others are more 35-year-olds and has offices in the United States. Neuschwanstein. Its 12-day European Horizon tour (from $1. . Contiki also offers an escorted eight-day Berlin–Prague trip. Cologne.879 without airfare).079 per person double occupancy without airfare) and its 11-day. www.maupintour. 8-country European Magic tour (from $ offers escorted grand and highlight tours that cover most of Germany. Dresden. Neuschwanstein and Oberammergau. The following companies offer escorted tours to Germany: ߜ Brendan Worldwide Vacations (% 800-421-8446.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 69 may be extra. or does everybody get the same chicken cutlet? Tour operators in the United States Several companies offer escorted tours to Berlin.279 per person double occupancy without airfare) include stops in the Rhine Valley and Munich.globusjourneys. How much flexibility does the tour offer? Can you opt out of certain activities. with no exceptions? Are all your meals planned in advance? Can you choose your entree at dinner.” a nine-day Rhine cruise that includes visits to vineyards and trips to Cologne and Heidelberg.959 without airfare).com) offers “Romantic Rhine. Meissen. a package tour that includes airfare. ߜ Globus ( has an eight-day escorted tour of German Christmas Market Towns from $2. an eight-day Bavaria and Bodensee tour with stops in Munich. or does the bus leave once a day. and the United Kingdom. and a nine-day Berlin-to-Bohemia tour that takes you to Berlin.contiki. and Leipzig. That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour operators. www. Munich. Beer may be included but not wine. not including airfare. Munich. Black Forest.brennanvactions. com) provides escorted tours in western and southern Germany. and destinations in the rest of Germany (or include Germany in a Europe-wide tour).649. ߜ Brennan Vacations (% 800-237-7249. ߜ Maupintour (www.

Airline packages don’t always include airport taxes and surcharges. Munich. and is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast and usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday vacations. www. such as Travel + Leisure. Some book flights on scheduled airlines. ߜ Delta Vacations (% 800-221-6666. don’t fly with it. The following offers flight and hotel packages to Frankfurt and Munich. Liberty Travel (call % 888-271-1584. and Berlin. In some packages. . check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based. some provide the same hotels for lower has air/hotel packages to Frankfurt. www. Prices depend on your departure city.libertytravel. www.deltavacations. and Condé Nast Munich. others allow you to add on just a few excursions or escorted daytrips (also at discounted prices) without booking an entirely escorted tour.70 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Every package tour is different. your choice of accommodations and travel days may be limited. or go online to www. and Frankfurt. www. ߜ Northwest Airlines World Vacations (% 800-800-1504. others sell charters. Some let you choose between escorted vacations and independent vacations. departure cities. If you’re unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager. If a packager won’t tell you where it’s based.nwa worldvacations. a daylong Rhine tour from Frankfurt. ߜ United Vacations (% 800-800-1504. Locating airline and hotel packages To find package tours. which typically amount to about $80. National Geographic has air/hotel packages to Berlin. You also can rent a car or buy a Eurailpass for train travel. check out the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper or the ads in the back of national travel magazines. Other good sources of package deals are the airlines. Several big online travel agencies — Expedia. Some offer a better class of hotels than — also do a brisk business in packages. and a day tour of Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace. www. and an array of sightseeing and transportation add-ons. airlines offered packages to Germany from the United States in 2006: ߜ Continental Airlines Vacations (% 800-301-3800. Add-ons include a Munich city has a hotel/airfare package to Frankfurt from a number of U. Travelocity. Site59. Orbitz. and many let you choose the hotel category you want.

Heidelberg. the mode of travel best suited to your needs and itinerary. Germany (356. . the atmospheric charms of Germany are most strongly felt. the trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps is only an hour by car and less than 90 minutes by train. From Berlin you can reach Dresden or Leipzig in about two hours. food. From Munich.734 sq. and language as you travel from one part of Germany to another. Australia. Stuttgart. Many historic towns and castles in Germany are manageable daytrips from larger cities. and Canada. If you want to get a feel for the country. With the area added by reunification. in the north. you can get from Berlin. in about seven or eight hours. the country is a snap to explore. you find out more about your travel options within Germany — that is. I Weighing the Options: Train or Car? Because of Germany’s comparatively small size and easy-access train and road networks.Chapter 7 Getting Around Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling through Germany by train ᮣ Touring the sites by car ᮣ Cruising the rivers of Germany ᮣ Flying from city to city n this chapter. Nuremberg — usually are no more than two or three hours apart by car or train. km/137. Compared with the United States. consider exploring at least a portion of Germany that has nothing to do with huge urban Berlin or Munich. The train trip between Hamburg and Lübeck is less than an hour. to Munich. By fast train or car. The cities in western Germany — Cologne.735 sq. Germany is a fairly small country. When you get out of the cities and into the countryside. in the south. You’ll notice fascinating differences in culture. where you can sip wine in a small Rhineland village or explore a scenic region like Bavaria. miles) is smaller than the state of Montana (but with more than 80 million people). customs.

If you need any kind of train-related information while you’re in Germany — from timetables to fares and special services — call DB’s general information number at % 11861. Train types The federally owned and operated Deutsche Bahn has been modernizing and upgrading its trains steadily while integrating two different systems (Deutsche Bundesbahn in western Germany and Deutsche Reichsbahn in eastern Germany) into one. in English. . having a car in scenic areas. You also can access train information online. pronounced shpy-zuhvahg-en) and cafe or bistro cars (for lighter snacks) are on all trains.72 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany So should you rent a car or take the train? In almost all cases. You may be surprised by the bright-red. Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go In Germany. The railway system in Germany is operated by Deutsche Bahn (DB. enables you to explore the countryside more easily. German trains almost always run on time. German Rail in English). ICE trains have telephones. And. a train is called an Eisenbahn (eye-sen-bawn) or a Zug (zoog). I recommend train travel for its convenience. ߜ InterCity Express (ICE) trains. individual reading lights. speed. high-tech look of the newest long-distance and local train timetables are coordinated to minimize waiting for connections. reaching speeds of 265kmph (165 mph). yes. Following basic training Throughout Germany. Each train makes stops at cities along the way. from Frankfurt to Munich. I recommend traveling by train above all other forms of transportation — especially if you’re a first-time visitor to Germany. On IC trains. Traveling by train is fast. which connect major cities on heavily traveled routes. and a high standard of comfort in both first and second classes.bahn. Someone who speaks English will be available to help you. Dining cars (Speisewagen. you can choose whether to sit in a compartment with six seats or in an open saloon coach. What follows is a rundown of the trains that you find within Germany: ߜ InterCity (IC) passenger trains offer express service between all major German cities at intervals of one or two hours. fun. enabling passengers to cross the entire country in only a few hours. are among the fastest in Europe. ICE trains run from Hamburg to Munich. at DB’s Web site. and from Berlin to Munich. ICE significantly reduces travel time. such as the Black Forest (Chapter 17) or the Romantic Road in Bavaria (Chapter 16). a restaurant. and fun. and convenient. and telephone service. www. However. IC trains have adjustable cushioned seats.

Comfort Single or Double gives you a singleor double-bed compartment with washing facilities. you may need to transfer to a RegionalBahn (RB) train to reach your destination. In new high-speed trains. you may need to open the door by pulling up on a handle. Hamburg and Zurich. This train operates between Berlin and Zurich (stopping at Frankfurt. phones for wake-up service. Baden-Baden. You may appreciate the difference on long-distance journeys — from Berlin to Munich. Sleeping accommodations in Deluxe include compartments with a shower and toilet. Station stops are short. so have your luggage in hand and be ready to disembark when the train comes to a halt. and Dortmund and Vienna. All German trains are divided into smoking (rauchen.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 73 ߜ The CityNightLine (CNL) is one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe. and Freiburg. and Copenhagen. which now sometimes is called standard class. and a more luxurious feel. You can specify your preference when reserving your seat. pronounced raukin) and nonsmoking (nicht rauchen. Paris. you can order beverages and snacks that . pronounced nickt rau-kin) sections. when you’re onboard the train for seven hours or more. key cards. First-class service on InterCity Express (ICE) trains includes a higher standard of personal service. For some outof-the-way places. among other towns). say. In other trains. Prague. and a panoramic window with blinds. Economy provides a four-bed compartment with washing facilities (you can book this class as a single or double). Brussels. The CNL offers four different categories. The CNL includes a restaurant and cafe car. An announcement is made before the train arrives at each station. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations. usually within a suburban area around a large town. Ticket classes German trains have a two-tiered ticket system: first class (Erste Klasse) and second class (Zweite Klasse). The night trains have comfortable couchettes (basic sleeping compartments) and some more deluxe sleeping compartments with showers. But you can travel quite comfortably in second class. The first-class cars have roomier seats. Eurail and GermanRail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation. S-Bahn (urban light-rail) trains are used. First-class tickets cost about one-third more than second class. ߜ For shorter local trips. ߜ DB Nachtzug (Night Train) service is available between many cities in Germany and continues on to Amsterdam. Berlin and Dresden. fewer passengers. you find a well-marked button that automatically opens the door. The Ruhesessel (sleeper chair) category offers open saloon seating with reclining seats. RegionalExpress (RE) trains link rural areas to the long-distance rail network.

Hotels are always close at hand. including currency exchange. 15:00 (3 p. you can take an elevator to the track level. tram. you can pick up your car and go.74 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany are brought to your seat. Like other European trains. you need to find the right track (Gleis.m. prominently placed departure and arrival boards list train numbers. In many German train stations. pronounced glice) for your departing train. 14:00 (2 p. daytime automobile trains also operate. and so on. (Just another way of saying: Don’t overpack. the time on the schedule reads 16:20. or bus from there. light-rail.25). But in others. This information also is posted as a printed schedule in the station. At larger stations. so you can continue your local explorations by subway. up to 23:59 (11:59 p.. arrival or departure times. train times can be 13:00 (1 p. or main train station.m. When you reach your destination. departure is Abfahrt (ob-fahrt). you can check your luggage (Gepäck. newsstands. First. stowed elsewhere. getting to your track without help may be difficult. comes along for the ride. Heading to the Hauptbahnhof A German city’s Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). Midnight always is listed as 0:00 hours and noon is 12:00. while your automobile. Therefore.and second-class cars with a food-and-beverage trolley.). and track numbers. an employee comes through both first. the German train system works on a 24-hour clock. porters (recognized by their red or blue uniforms) can transport your luggage. and usually a tourist information office.and second-class passengers otherwise use the same dining cars and cafe cars for buying sandwiches and drinks. In large cities. . final destinations.).).m. Auto trains If you want to avoid long-distance driving but need a car after you arrive at your destination. On some trains. If you’re arriving in a city for sightseeing only. The German word for arrival is Ankunft (on-koonft). Local and commuter trains don’t have food service. rarely is more than a few minutes’ walk from the historic town center and all the main attractions. which sometimes have a ramp for luggage trolleys and baby carriages.m. you must climb stairs.) Getting off on the right track After arriving at the station. pronounced geh-peck) at a luggage checkroom. you can take yourself and your car on an overnight car-sleeper Auto Train. and not spending the night. The station always is a main link in the city’s public transportation system. If your train leaves at 4:20 p. food and beverages. Although less common.m. German train stations in major cities offer all kinds of services.). If you’re loaded down with several large. or you can use self-service luggage trolleys available for 1€ ($1. You ride in a sleeper compartment on the train. heavy bags.

75). even if you have a Eurailpass or German Rail Pass. do a little research to find out whether it’s going to save you money. the staff usually speaks English and can answer any questions you have. London WI . If you have a German Rail Pass or a Eurailpass (see the next section). If you have a Eurailpass. The Wagen numbers correspond with numbers or letters on the platform. is always a good idea.or second-class cars will stop. Travel agents throughout the United States and Canada sell all the rail passes described later in this section. Trains can be very raileurope. money.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 75 If you have a reserved seat. In smaller stations. Most rail passes must be purchased before you leave home. Or stop in at the Rail Europe Travel Centre. look for the Reisezentrum (travel center). 178 Piccadilly. In larger stations. which allows you to order by phone or online. reserving your seat in advance. usually. Web site: www. or 800/361-7245 in Canada. bahn.S. make your way to the platform areas where the first.S. Saving time and euros with rail passes Rail passes are tickets that enable you to travel for a certain number of days without buying a ticket for each leg of your journey. or Canadian dollars) of fares between destinations within Germany. your ticket lists the car and seat number.K. make your booking at the ticket counter. You’re issued a ticket that lists the Wagen (car) number and the Platz (seat) number. In larger stations. they can’t be purchased after you arrive in Germany or the rest of Europe. com.raileurope. pronounced plotz) reservation and buy train tickets (Fahrkarten. so you want to be near the appropriate area for boarding when your train pulls into the station. Each car. You can make a seat (Platz. Check the diagram and then make your way to the appropriate area of the platform before the train arrives. www. Diagrams posted on the platform show the layout of or far-karten) at any train station. You can check out passes and prices at Rail Europe’s U. They help you save time (ticket lines can be long) and. You can also find exact fares on Deutsche Bahn’s Web site. the seat reservation costs 3€ ($3. or Wagen (vah-ghen). Before you buy a rail pass. you can click on “Fares and Schedules” and get an estimated cost (in U. Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Germany and continental Europe.raileurope. Reserving your seat When traveling for any distance in Germany. and restaurant the only free seat you find may be in the smoking area or out in the hallway (I speak from experience).. usually 1 to 6 or A to G. is numbered. and you’re risking a journey without a seat reservation. second-class. At Rail Europe’s Web site. Otherwise. www. www. but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U.

108 for 3 months. for two adults (they do not have to be married and can be of the same sex) traveling together in first or second class. Sample prices: $163 for four days. each additional day costs $38 first class. including destinations not serviced by trains. A four-day pass costs $263 first class or $200 second class. you can purchase a Eurailpass Youth.. Main. The second pass represents a 50 percent savings over single prices. Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe The Eurailpass is one of Europe’s best bargains. and free travel on KD German Line steamers (daytrips only) along the Rhine. Children younger than 6 travel free. These passes are for consecutive days of travel. For instance. German Rail Passes for kids ages 6 to 11 are half the adult price. including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth. German Rail Passes are most conveniently available from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. $25 second class. With a Eurailpass you can enjoy unlimited first-class rail travel in 18 countries.raileurope. including Germany. A German Rail Pass also entitles the bearer to free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus. you can ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich. Passes are for periods as short as 15 days or as long as 3 months. Sample prices per person: $200 for four days first class or $150 for second class.K). spend three days exploring the city. $510 for 21 days. and Mosel rivers. with additional days available for a reduced price. A German Rail Youth Pass is valid only for persons younger than 26 years of age and is available only in second class. each additional day $13. entitling you to unlimited second-class travel for $394 for 15 days. Rail Europe also provides cost-effective “Rail ’n Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car. $634 for 1 month. . German rail passes: For Deutschland only The German Rail Pass allows for four consecutive or nonconsecutive days of travel in one month within Germany. you can purchase the passes online at www. and then rent a car for a two-day excursion into the Bavarian Alps to see Ludwig’s castles. Some of the most popular passes. or 800-361-7245 in Canada). An even bigger bargain is the German Rail Twinpass.S.76 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany (% 08708/371-371 in the U. and $1. $897 for 2 months. these passes allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries. If you’re younger than 26. The 15-day Eurailpass costs $605. are available only to travelers younger than 26 years of

Seat reservations are required on some trains. the rental process is more streamlined. Renting a car in Germany Renting a car is fairly easy in Germany. You get an easy-to-understand net price (which you have to prepay by credit card at least 14 days before departure). and the Black Forest. Touring by Car: Autobahns. and other non–European Union countries must have a valid driver’s license. Drivers from the United States. and Benzin I’m a Zug (train) nut. Remember. and Eurail Selectpass. Canada. you may want to pick up a copy of Frommer’s Germany’s Best-Loved Driving Tours (Wiley). nothing is more pleasant than sitting in a train and watching the countryside roll by. Several international car-rental firms rent cars in or 800361-7245 in Canada. good for first-class travel for 10 or 15 days in a 2-month period. Eurailpass Saver for two to five persons traveling together.. Whenever you rent. keep in mind that you may get a better rate if you reserve the car at least seven days in advance. or at an office within German cities. but no other special license is required.S. the Bodensee. in some cases. and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. or five countries linked by rail or ferry. www. However. that if you opt to prepay and your plans change. The night trains have couchettes (sleeping cars). Buy your Eurailpass before you leave home. have to pay a penalty of around $25) for changing or canceling a prepaid contract. Eurailpass holders also are entitled to considerable reductions on certain buses and ferries.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 77 Eurailpasses can be bought and used only by non-European residents. I recommend that you make all the arrangements before you leave home. four. You can pick up your car at most airports and major train stations. you have to go through some rather complicated paperwork (and. Tankstellen. To me. Germany has scenic regions — the Romantic Road. for example — where even I succumb to car rental to explore the countryside. however. Australia. If you’re going to tour Germany by car. including the Eurail Pass Flexi.raileurope. Prepaying rentals in dollars before leaving the United States offers some advantages. A host of different Eurailpass options are available. You can often rent a car in one German city and return the vehicle in another city for no additional charge. which cost extra. allowing travelers to select three. from a travel agent or from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. . See the appendix for a list of names and contact information.

” earlier in this chapter). some secondary and local roads are not in good shape. or 800-361-7245 in Canada.78 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany You can also rent a car through Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. I recommend that you purchase all the optional insurance coverage. which are available at all major bookstores throughout Germany. Germany’s road signs are standard international signs. the Autobahn does not have a speed limit (in the left. If you rent a car in Germany. You can purchase extra days for both train travel and car rental.. another passenger. finding your way by looking for directional signs rather than highway number signs is easier. In this book. and Bundesstrassen. Taking the roads less traveled The roads that make up the Autobahn (pronounced otto-bahn) form Germany’s main long-distance highway network. They offer a German Rail ’n Drive option that gives you two days of unlimited train travel (first or second class) and two days of Hertz car rental within one month. right lane. In theory. Some credit cards (especially platinum and gold cards) cover the CDW. www. Hallweg also produces good road maps. by the letter B (examples: A96. A Collision-Damage Waiver (CDW) is an optional insurance policy that can be purchased when you sign a rental agreement. The government recommends an Autobahn speed limit of 130kmph (80 mph). . you’ll pay for all damages up to the cost of actually replacing the vehicle. The Bundesstrassen in the major touring areas of the Romantic Road in Bavaria. fast lane). and the Black Forest are smoothly paved and kept in good repair. but many drivers going too fast report that they’ve been stopped by police and fined on the spot. so you may prefer the slower. or someone else. B31). in general. Neither the CDW nor credit-card companies cover liability if you injure yourself. so call your company to check on these benefits before you spend the extra money on additional at the same time you book your German Rail Pass or Eurailpass (see “Saving time and euros with rail passes. So exercise reasonable caution. If you don’t have a CDW and have an accident. consider taking out Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) for extra liability coverage. individual Autobahns are indicated by the letter A followed by a number. The Bundesstrassen (state roads) vary in quality from region to region. However. Michelin publishes the best regional maps.raileurope. See Table 7-1 for a few important words that you should know. the Rhine Valley. A German driver on the Autobahn can be like one possessed. In eastern Germany. so if your own car insurance doesn’t cover you abroad.S.

Children younger than 4 must ride in a car seat. you need to know a few general facts: ߜ Signs show distances and speed limits in kilometers (km) and kilometers per hour (kmph). or roadwork One-way street Entrance End Danger Turn left Turn right Road narrows Attention! Look out! Following the rules of the road If you’re going to drive in Germany. and a mile is 1. ߜ The law requires that all passengers wear seat belts.62km. . speed limits are • 50kmph (30 mph) in towns • 100kmph (60 mph) on regular highways • 130kmph (78 mph) on Autobahns ߜ On Autobahns. German motorists generally flash their lights if they want you to move over so they can pass. Children younger than 12 must sit on booster seats in the back so that regular seat belts can be used safely. ߜ You can pass other vehicles only on the left.62 of a mile. A kilometer is 0. Do not drive in this lane unless you are passing another car. ߜ Unless posted differently.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 79 Table 7-1 German Anfang Ausfahrt Baustelle Einbahnstrasse Einfahrt Ende Gefahr Links einbiegen Rechts einbiegen Verengte Fahrbahn Vorsicht German Road Signs English Translation Start. And I mean fast. the left lane is the fast lane. or beginning Exit Building site.

you find emergency phones every 2km (about 11⁄4 miles). ߜ Driving while intoxicated and drinking while driving are very serious offenses in Germany. which flows through the heart of Europe from the Alps to the North Sea. expensive. Sailing through Germany: River Cruises Germany’s major river is the Rhine. They are always identified by a large P. In English. If you have a breakdown on the Autobahn. But remember that gas is always much more expensive than in the United States. Look for parking lots and parking garages outside the center. and gas stations. bitte (please) Gasoline. Super Bleifrei (super unleaded).80 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ You must use low-beam headlights at night and during fog. heavy rain. 81373 München (% 089/ 76760). because most historic town centers are for pedestrians only. is readily available throughout Germany. The cheapest gasoline is at stations marked SB-TANKEN (Selbstbedienung. the point of the black triangle on posts alongside the road indicates the direction of the nearest phone. Through the centuries. called Benzin (ben-seen). they have the right of way. Handling a roadside emergency The major automobile club in Germany is Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobile Club (ADAC). in some larger cities. you can call ADAC from an emergency phone. Am Westpark 8. Fill ’er up. If you’ve had more than a glass of wine or beer. If you don’t belong to an auto club. but you pay for parts and materials. call ADAC’s breakdown service at % 01802/222-222. ߜ You must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. more castles were built in the Rhine Valley than in any other valley in the world. ߜ Parking in the center of most big towns is difficult. signs on the way into town indicate how much space is available in various lots or parking garages. Emergency assistance is free. don’t risk driving. The self-service process is basically the same as that of the United States. You insert coins (or credit cards) to purchase a certain amount of time. ask for “road service assistance” (Strassenwachthilfe). You fill your tank and pay inside at the counter. and snowfalls. The types of gasoline are Normal Bleifrei (regular unleaded). Most parking lots use an automated ticket system. or just plain impossible. . Super Plus Bleifrei (supreme unleaded). and diesel. Filling up the tank of a medium-sized car will usually cost about 60€ ($75). called Tankstelle (tonk-shtel-leh) appear frequently along the Autobahns. On the Autobahn. or self-service).

or Peter Deilmann EuropAmerica Cruises. You can fly this route.. www. Woodland Hills. but when you factor in time spent getting to the offers the most extensive and frequent flights within the country. situated on tributaries of the Elbe are Berlin and Hamburg. The Main flows from the Danube. The train from Frankfurt to Stuttgart. and continues northeastward. The Elbe. Alexandria. For more information. A trip that normally takes seven or eight hours by train or car takes about an hour by plane. going through security. takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. The downside is that you won’t see the countryside. you may want to consider this option. and Heidelberg. Lufthansa (% 800-645-3880 in the U. say. Flying doesn’t make much sense if you’re traveling short distances between cities that are connected by high-speed trains. past Frankfurt. you can already be there.rivercruises. but other European carriers are increasing their German domestic routes. . 1800 Diagonal Rd. and Canada. If you’re looking for an unusual and relaxing way to see or www. CA 91367 (% 877-66VIKING [845464]. and then getting into the city after your plane lands .lufthansa. by train. . or from Cologne in the west to Leipzig in the east. 21820 Burbank Blvd. mostly between April and October but with some in December. Cologne. Frankfurt. for Viking KD River Cruises and Peter Deilman EuropAmerica Cruises offer several cruises along these three great waterways. 01803/803-803 in Germany. which begins in the Czech Republic.. com). Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? Flying from city to city within Germany makes sense if you’re traveling from. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe.S. waiting for your departure. VA 22314 (% 800-348-8287.deilmanncruises. and enters the Rhine at the city of Mainz.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 81 This area has great appeal to visitors. Dresden.lufthansa. www. I tell you about river excursions along the Mosel and Neckar rivers and local sightseeing cruises in Berlin. flows past the great art city of Dresden. cuts through Germany’s eastern border in a beautiful area called Saxon Switzerland (see Chapter 14). . Hamburg or Berlin in the north to Munich in the south. Itineraries range from 2 to 20 nights. www. In the city and regional chapters of this guidebook. Suite 170. in the city center.

and the Bodensee (Lake Constance). what to expect in each category. and other cities throughout the country play host to large trade fairs and special events that make hotel rooms scarce.Chapter 8 Booking Your Accommodations In This Chapter ᮣ Checking out the options ᮣ Getting the best room for the best rate ᮣ Surfing for cyberdeals ᮣ Landing a room without a reservation T his chapter deals with that age-old question asked by every traveler going to an unfamiliar country or city: Where should I spend the night? Everyone travels differently. but I still recommend doing so — particularly when you’re going to be spending a Friday or Saturday night in a major tourist spot like Dresden or Füssen. In the following pages. especially in the middle of winter. From April through September. and every country offers its own lodging possibilities. such as the Black Forest. how to book a room online. also fill up quickly during high season. Hotels in popular tourist areas. Berlin. . In Germany’s large cities. Frankfurt. Booking ahead isn’t as important in the rest of Germany. you find out about German hotels — how to find them. the Rhine and Mosel valleys. and again in December (the period that constitutes high season). During off season. like Berlin and Munich. Cologne. finding a room may be as simple as spotting a sign in a house window that reads Zimmer frei (room available). and how to get the best deal for your money. hotels in the inexpensive-to-moderate range always are first to be snapped up. wherever you are. you won’t have a problem booking a room on the spot. In a small village. Throughout the year. Munich. booking your hotel room ahead is essential — especially if you’re going to be in Munich during Oktoberfest. near Ludwig’s castles.

Finding the Place That’s Right for You Germany has very high standards for hotels and inns. breakfast is more likely to be a self-serve buffet with juice. You won’t find a speck of Schmutz (dirt) in any of them. and local tourist boards control standards in all categories of accommodations. yogurt. Even the smallest Pension (bed-and-breakfast. Smoke-free rooms and smoke-free floors finally are catching on in Germany. takes the place of blankets. others charge a small fixed fee (usually no more than 3€/$3. Most tourist information centers also have a free directory of local accommodations. But remember that Europeans in general are not as committed to smokefree environments as are Americans. instead. and smoked fish or pickled herring. regional tourist associations. depending on the size and degree of luxury. The term for “no smoking” is nicht rauchen (nickt rau-kin). Charges for this service vary. except at some boutique and high-end luxury hotels. cereal.75). The system isn’t used to recommend hotels but rather simply to categorize them according to their amenities. from luxury old-world palaces and super-high-tech showoffs to hip boutique hotels. chain hotels. These same state agencies and tourist boards rate hotels according to a star system. or B&B) must open its doors for inspection to be able to list and rent rooms. fruit. I don’t use that star-rating system in this book. A Decke is what Americans call a comforter or duvet. breakfast may be coffee. Hotel associations. Some places charge nothing. cold cuts. You’re most likely to find them in midrange to high-end hotels. This light. I try to give you the best options in different price categories. . rustic guesthouses. located in or near the main train stations in all German cities and towns. and simple rooms in private homes and apartments. and some cold cuts. so the service ends up costing nothing. Breakfast (Frühstück) always is included in the price of a room. but you get that back at the hotel. fresh bread. you find a Decke (deck-uh) on the bed. You find all types of lodging. and others charge 10 percent of the first night’s hotel rate. In all types of accommodations in Germany. A five-star hotel is a luxury property with an on-site spa or pool and a rate at the top end of the price spectrum. an egg. If two beds are joined to make a double. A one-star hotel is basic and inexpensive. you find a Decke on each side.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 83 Tourist information centers. a roll with butter and jam. feather-filled covering. small family-run hotels. eggs. can help you find a room. pastries. buttoned within a sheet. In a pension. cozy inns. At hotels.

and international chains include Accor. a minibar. high-speed and wireless Internet access. Most boutique hotels are too small to have a pool or health club but may have an arrangement with a nearby facility. and Steigenberger. Ringhotels. European. Hotel Brandenburger Hof in Berlin (Chapter 11) emphasizes a sleek. Mövenpick. beginning with the most expensive. and Treff Hotels. The hotel has at least two fine gourmet restaurants. Boutique hotels generally have fewer than 70 rooms and offer a unique ambience and high level of personalized service. 24-hour room service is available. The staff is unusually welcoming and the service impeccable. usually with a sauna and pool. Luxury hotels Public spaces in luxury hotels are sophisticated and elegant. satellite TV. Each one has its own personality. you have several different kinds of hotels and accommodations from which to choose.25 per bag). Expect to pay 175€ ($219) and up. a couple of phones. Some brand-name hotel chains — Hyatt. Travel Charme. and the property has an on-site health club. Mercure. Pricewise. German. Inter-Continental. and bathrobes. and high-quality toiletries. For the .84 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In Germany. I describe each type. and bathrobes. Swissôtel. Small Luxury Hotels. classic Bauhaus style. InterCity Hotels (always near train stations). tubs (often with whirlpools) and showers. which you can find in every chapter’s hotel listings and in the appendix. contemporary design. Chain hotels Holiday Inn. highspeed and wireless Internet access. Charges for the (fabulous) breakfast buffet are anywhere from 17€ to 22€ ($21–$27). which often are the best restaurants in town. The Bleibtreu in Berlin (Chapter 11) is big on hip. but also look for special weekend rates on the hotels’ Web sites. What you don’t get is a free breakfast. The rooms themselves are generally spacious and beautifully furnished with amenities such as a minibar. the Hotel Excelsior Ernst in Cologne (Chapter 22) and the Hotel Adlon in Berlin (Chapter 22) are two of the most luxurious luxury hotels. cable and satellite TV. Best Western. they generally cost 150€ ($188) and up. in particular — have properties in this luxury category. telephone. In the following sections. Der Kleine Prinz in Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) is built around oldfashioned luxury. Amenities typically include brand-name toiletries. and Romantic Hotels. Radisson SAS. These establishments often are part of hotel associations. Your bed is turned down at night. Boutique hotels Think of them as small luxury hotels. Park Plaza/ Art’otel. Sheraton. Bathrooms are large and well equipped with magnifying mirrors. such as Relais & Châteaux. Boutique hotels always have a fine-dining restaurant and a bar. Porters are available to take your luggage up to your room (tip 1€/$1. Breakfast may or may not be included. Kempinski. but they are beautifully fitted out. Ramada — names you probably know — all have hotels in Germany. Rooms and bathrooms are not always large. Le Meridien.

or in the country than in large cities. The inn may also offer a special rate for dinner or lunch and dinner. but your rate will include breakfast. cable TV. and somewhat anonymous. The Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg and Feriengasthof Helmer in Schwangau (see Chapter 16 for both) are examples of this kind of accommodations. which typically are given a two. You generally find different room categories. comfortable rooms without much personality but at hard-to-beat prices. have just a few rooms. chain hotels offer brand-name familiarity and dependable service. Bathrooms are smaller and less glamorous than the ones in a luxury or boutique hotel property. Most guesthouses don’t have an elevator.or three-star rating by the local tourist authority. a word sometimes attached to a hotel’s name. The restaurant occupies the main or first floor. Rates are typically from 55€ to 110€ ($69–$137). other rooms have sinks but share bathrooms and showers in the hallway. and dinner to hotel guests and outside patrons. you find a telephone and cable TV. and sometimes a minibar. Room service is available. is basically an inn with a restaurant that serves breakfast. Smaller independent hotels Many small and medium-sized hotels in Germany are family owned and operated. You’re more likely to find guesthouses in small towns. The ambience tends to be rustic and cozy. Amenities include a telephone. usually no more than three total. means that breakfast is the only meal the hotel serves. The rooms are smaller and have a more standardized décor than rooms in luxury hotels. called a Gasthaus (gahst-house) or a Gasthof (gahsthofe). Garni. in medium-sized cities. expect to pay anywhere from 110€ to 175€ ($137–$219). They also tend to be newish. Properties like Hotel Jedermann in Munich (Chapter 15) or Hotel-Garni Brugger in Lindau (Chapter 17) offer basic. and the hotel often has an on-site pool or health club with sauna. Some rooms have small private bathrooms with showers or bathtubs. Prices for a small to midsize independent hotel range from 85€ to 175€ ($106–$219). Shopping around on the Web may net you some big savings. Prices vary greatly for chain hotels. . and many of the properties are older and located in the oldest and most picturesque quarters of the city. In these hotels. Rates at small and midsize properties always include a buffet breakfast. You probably won’t find a telephone in your room or too many amenities. enormous. and the upper floors. Guesthouses A guesthouse. lunch. some with breakfast included.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 85 most part. depending on the time of year and the presence of trade shows or conventions. The rooms themselves often are charming — what you’d typically expect in an old-world inn. Tour packagers and convention planners often house their groups in chain hotels. In general.

) Reserving a room through the hotel’s toll-free number also may result in a lower rate than calling the hotel directly. Amenities vary from place to place. Hotels are happy to charge you the rack rate. Prices aren’t negotiable at smaller hotels. as occupancy rates rise and fall. Some half a million beds are available in private homes across the country. you can also use the kitchen. A travel agent may be able to negotiate a better price with certain hotels than you can get by yourself. You sometimes see these rates printed on the fire/emergency-exit diagrams posted on the back of your door. and Dec). Room rates (even rack rates) change with the season. (See Chapter 3 for more information on Germany’s different seasons. but you can almost always do better. You may luck out and find a place with a private bathroom. the central reservations number may not know about discount rates at specific locations. You may be pleasantly surprised.86 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Pensions The Pension (pronounced pen-see-own in Germany) has long been the backbone of budget travel in Germany. considered high season elsewhere in Europe. Sept. you’ll probably pay more. often advertised with a simple sign: Zimmer frei (room available). In all but the smallest accommodations. On the other hand. Breakfast always is included in the price. rooms start around 30€ ($37) per person per night. Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. but you generally won’t have a phone. In smaller towns. so you may or may not have a TV. or you may have to share the bathroom. Your best bet is to call both the local number and the toll-free number and see which one gives you a better deal. (That’s because the hotel often gives the agent a discount in exchange for steering his business toward that hotel. In Germany. Keep in mind that many pensions operate on a cash-only basis. prices are higher in large cities. and in some cases. although some of these properties do offer special rates for longer stays. and guesthouses. with breakfast included in the price. It’s the rate you get if you walk in off the street and ask for a room for the night. hotel rates usually go down in July and August. If you travel in the high season (Apr–June.) But . Perhaps the best way to avoid paying the rack rate is surprisingly simple: Just ask for a cheaper or discounted rate. A pension is the same as a B&B (bed-and-breakfast): a room in a private home or apartment. Pension Niebuhr in Berlin (Chapter 11) is a good big-city pension. the rate you pay for a room depends on many factors — chief among them being how you make your reservation. pensions.

travelaxe.travelweb. a good portion of which get misplaced in the shuffle. Expedia offers a long list of special deals and virtual tours or photos of available rooms so you can see what you’re paying for. You never know when the affiliation may be worth a few euros off your room and Quikbook. Another booking site. because prices can vary considerably from site to site. can help you search multiple hotel sites at once — even ones you may never have heard of — and conveniently lists the total price of the room. An excellent free program. Travelocity posts unvarnished customer reviews and ranks its properties according to the AAA rating system. is partly owned by the hotels it represents (including the Be sure to mention membership in AAA. AARP. Hyatt. see the information about choosing a tour package in Chapter Travelweb (www. competing for the business of millions of consumers surfing for accommodations around the world. TravelAxe (www. including the taxes and service getting a confirmation number and making a printout of any online booking transactions are good practices. and Starwood chains) and is therefore plugged directly into the hotels’ reservations systems — unlike independent online agencies that have to fax or e-mail reservation requests to the hotel. To be fair. and any corporate rewards programs you can think of when you call to book.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 87 even within a given season. many of the major sites are undergoing improvements in service and ease of use. room prices are subject to change without notice. Of the “big three” sites. travelers have arrived at the hotel only to be told that they have no reservation. frequent-flier programs. so the rates quoted in this book may be different from the actual rate you receive when you make your reservation. And keep in mind that hotels at the top of a site’s listing may be there for no other reason than that they paid money to get the placement. . These Internet hotel agencies have multiplied in mind-boggling numbers of late. For more tips about how to get the best room rate. Surfing the Web for hotel deals Shopping online for hotels generally is done one of two ways: by booking through the hotel’s own Web site or through an independent booking agency (or a fare-service agency like Priceline). In the meantime. Also reliable are Hotels. and Expedia soon will be able to plug directly into the reservations systems of many hotel chains. This competitiveness can be a boon to consumers who have the patience and time to shop for and compare the online sites for good deals — but shop they must. More than once.

Some lodging sites specialize in a particular type of accommodations. and the fee is Web site (www.biddingfortravel. It features independent hotels throughout Germany and northern Europe that are a good value for your money.innsite. including is a site that you may want to use if you can read German. Call its toll-free number (% 800-364-0801) if you want more options than the Web site lists online. Travelocity. Go to the BiddingForTravel. and Hotwire. For Priceline. and then e-mail the innkeeper if you have questions. the following Web sites will help you with booking hotel rooms online: ߜ www. You can find a B&B in Berlin or the Black Forest. you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel before offering up your money. you pay ߜ www. Expedia. Although the major travel booking sites (Frommer’s. you may be better off using a site devoted primarily to lodging.180096hotel.88 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In addition to ߜ www. Expedia. Priceline is even better for booking hotels than it is for booking flights.travelweb. Note: Some hotels don’t provide loyalty-program credits or points or other frequent-stay amenities when you book a room through opaque online services. Orbitz. On the downside. it sometimes has rooms at hotels that are sold out. such as B&Bs. another good site if you can read German. focuses on family hotels all across Germany that are managed according to ecological principles and have gastronomic flair. and Orbitz) offer hotel booking. it features a fairly up-to-date list of hotels that Priceline uses in major cities. ߜ InnSite ( provides B&B listings for inns in dozens of countries around the lists bargain rates at hotels throughout Germany. You often find properties not listed with more general online travel agencies. check prices and availability. ߜ Hotel Online ( before bidding on a hotel room on ߜ www. Priceline.tripadvisor.landidyll. Because the site prebooks blocks of rooms. The following list includes sites that enable you to make online reservations at hotels throughout Germany: ߜ Hotel Discounts (www. ߜ Landidyll (www.hotelonline. which you won’t find on the more mainstream booking In the opaque Web site category. Priceline is much better at getting five-star lodging for three-star prices than at finding anything at the bottom of the scale. . look at images of the many hotels stick Priceline guests in their least desirable rooms.

they should be happy to accommodate has about 450 hotels worldwide. including first-class and resort hotels throughout Germany. You can book almost 90 percent of these accommodations online. asking a few more pointed questions can go a long way toward making sure you get the best room in the house. request a room away from the renovation work. and focuses on chains such as Hyatt and Hilton. and have more windows and light than standard rooms. if it is. including Germany. ߜ Ask whether the hotel is renovating. ߜ Inquire about the location of the restaurants. If they have another room.000 hotels worldwide. ߜ Always ask for a corner room. . offer weekend deals at many leading chains. if you aren’t happy with your room when you arrive. talk to the front lists more than 16. Its Click-It Weekends. You can check for special discounted and weekend rates at many great German hotels.srs-worldhotels. ߜ Travelweb (www. within reason.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 89 ߜ SRS-Worldhotels (www. Finally.travelweb. updated each Monday. Reserving the best room After you make your reservation. and they don’t always cost more. quieter. They’re usually larger. bars. and discos in the hotel — all sources of annoying noise.

. But family travel can be immensely In this chapter. People with disabilities need to ensure that sites on their itineraries are barrierfree.germany-tourism. Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families Germany is a pretty kid-friendly country.Chapter 9 Catering to Special Needs or Interests In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling with your kids ᮣ Discovering discounts and special tours for seniors ᮣ Locating wheelchair-accessible attractions ᮣ Finding lesbigay communities and special events ᮣ Tracing Germany’s Jewish history M any of today’s travelers have special interests or needs. Parents may want to take their children along on trips. children). I offer advice and resources for all these travelers. with its section on family travel is a good place to begin researching your trip. Jewish visitors may want to visit Holocaust memorials and worship in a synagogue. de or www. dragging them thousands of miles away to a country where a different language is spoken may seem like an insurmountable challenge. giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes. Gays and lesbians may want to know about welcoming places and events. Seniors may like to take advantage of discounts or tours designed especially for them.cometogermany. If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning. but traveling anywhere with Kinder (kin-der. is a challenge — no doubt about it. from toddlers to teens. The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www.

and Family Travel Files (www. such as cramped rooms and shared toilet facilities.familytravelforum. In larger cities. local restaurants. you can keep costs down by eating at lowkey.S. Family Travel Network (www. find these food chains in smaller villages and towns. and attractions that are particularly family friendly. Look for the Kid Friendly icon as you flip through this book. The same is true for public transportation: Low-priced family or group tickets usually are available. On trains. Munich. Locating family-friendly businesses Most German hotels happily accommodate your family if you reserve your rooms in advance and make the staff aware that you’re traveling with kids. Admission prices for attractions throughout Germany are reduced for children ages 6 to 14. even when the place welcomes kids. including Burger King and McDonald’s. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. Zeroing in on these places can help you plan your trip more quickly and easily. and tips. The menus aren’t geared to the tastes of U. and children younger than 6 travel free. which considerably reduces the admission price for a group of two adults and two or more children. and midsize German cities have American-style fast-food places. The establishment may bring in an extra cot or let you share a larger room.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 91 You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Forum (www. or bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs).com). however. Smaller pensions. You won’t. . I use it to highlight hotels. may present problems. in Germany you don’t see many families dining in expensive restaurants. high-toned restaurants in Germany are not particularly welcoming toward young children. which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families. Berlin. youngsters. TravelWithYourKids (www. In fact. For information on passport requirements for children.thefamilytravelfiles. If you’re traveling with Kids younger than 6 almost always get in for free. children ages 6 to 11 pay half the adult fare. and the staff can be less than welcoming to children who are not well behaved. these types of arrangements are common. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. restaurants. see Chapter 10. Ask questions before you reserve.familytravelnetwork. always check to see whether the attraction offers a money-saving family withyourkids. an award-winning site that offers travel features. Younger teens traveling in Berlin and Munich may want to check out the Hard Rock Cafe in those cities.

If not. and familiarizing themselves with the sounds of the German language and learning at least a few words. ask whether you’ll have access to an elevator or a Fahrstuhl (far-shtool). a trip to a museum may try the patience of those children who can’t understand what they’re reading. But you can’t take Junior along on this special evening. such as lower prices for German Rail Passes and reduced admission at museums and other attractions. When you reserve a hotel. What are your options? Ask your hotel staff whether they can recommend a local baby-sitting service. In the evening. when you plan your trip. the selection may not include as many presweetened varieties as in the United States. Most of the hotels marked with a Kid Friendly icon in this book can help arrange baby-sitting. however. kids can choose from a selection of cereals at most buffet breakfasts in hotels. You can spur your kids’ interest (and your own) by buying a German language tape or checking one out from the library. Carrying an ID with proof of age can pay off in all these situations. Always ask. less-expensive pensions and guesthouses — have elevators. Being a senior may entitle you to some terrific travel bargains. Note: In Germany. However. as they’re called in Germany. When considering museums. Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors Germany won’t present any problems for you if you’re a senior who gets around easily. . The staircases in some places are a test for anyone with luggage. even if the reduction isn’t posted. you may find that some discounts are available only for German or EU (European Union) residents. many of the top museums offer audio guides in English. everyone can spend an hour together.92 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany The best of the Wurst Your time in Germany may be a good opportunity to introduce your kids to some dishes that they’ve never tried. sausage) is 100 percent meat with no filler. Therefore. Germany’s ever-present Wurst (voorst. be aware that not all hotels — particularly smaller. Hiring a baby sitter in Germany What you really need is an exciting evening at the opera and a romantic late dinner with a glass of fine German wine. listening to the tape. bear in mind that most German museums do not translate their signage and texts into English. For something more familiar.

gct.intrav.gct. not specifically seniors. Elderhostel (% 877-426-8056) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries around the world. % 800221-2610 or 617-350-7500. www. available from Grand Circle Travel (% 800-221-2610 or 617-350-7500. 601 E St. ElderTreks (% 800741-7956. including discounts on US Airways flights to Frankfurt and Munich from several U. discerning traveler. INTRAV (% 800-456-8100. tuition.” ߜ Grand Circle Travel (347 Congress St. hassle-free ways to learn while traveling. www. The price includes offers package deals for the 50-plus market. DC offers member discounts on car rentals and hotels. . These courses are value-packed. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. with trips around the world that include guided safaris. and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill). And you’ll be glad to know that you won’t be graded. Boston.elderhostel.S. tips. accommodations. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www. www. Boston.” “Treasures of the Elbe River Valley.. polar expeditions. restricted to travelers 50 and and insurance. NW. major tour operators offering trips to Germany. mostly of the tour-bus variety but also including river cruises along the Rhine and Mosel. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits. % 866-687-2277. private-jet adventures.. MA 02110-1941. Popular Germany offerings in 2006 included “Heartland of Classical is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature. meals. www.eldertreks.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 93 The sources in the following list can provide information about discounts and other benefits for seniors: ߜ AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired offers small-group tours to off-thebeaten-path or adventure-travel cities and discounts on escorted tours from Globus and Cosmos. 101 Tips for Mature Travelers. % offers people 55 and older a variety of university-based education programs in Berlin and throughout Germany. www. Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon). www. by Joann Rattner Heilman. With a annual membership of around $13 (anyone 50 or older can join). MA 02210. and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers. Washington. ߜ Elderhostel (75 Federal St.” and “The Rhine and Mosel River Valleys.

org.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. % 212447-7284. and a is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency. the community Web site iCan (www. fax: 020/7250-0212. Survival Strategies for Going Abroad.cometogermany. Germany is one of the more advanced countries in Europe when it comes to accessibility for disabled and Open World Magazine.sath. % 020/7250-3222. In fact.” containing information on trip provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. tour operators. www. is a good place to begin researching your trip. travel insurance. Here are some other helpful resources in the United States: ߜ The Moss Rehab Hospital (www. For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities. British travelers with disabilities may want to contact RADAR (Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation. de or www. Locating resources The German National Tourist Office’s Web site ( travel/index.94 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities The German word for disabled is behindert (bee-hin-dert).mossresourcenet. A disability needn’t stop anybody from traveling. travel agents. fax: 212-725-8253. specialized accommodations. Over the Rainbow. and transportation abroad. ߜ AirAmbulanceCard. published by www. 12 City Forum. with its section on travel for the disabled. vehicle rentals.. a 658-page book of resources that covers everything from biking trips to scuba outfitters. ߜ Mobility International USA (% 541-343-1284.miusa. ߜ The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH. afb. which publishes vacation “fact offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations. ߜ The American Foundation for the Blind (% 800-232-5463. provides general information on accessible travel. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.radar. .icanonline. London EC1V and companion services. access guides. 250 City publishes A World of Options. www. because more options and resources are available than ever before.

fax: 0211/ ߜ S E Unlimited Travel (% 800-552-9798 in the U. However.seunlimitedtravel. % 0211/33-68-001. fax: 605-334-0000. Some 385 train stations throughout the country have lifting aids or mobile Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair) Traveling in a wheelchair (called a Rollstuhl. The international airports in Munich and Frankfurt are wheelchair accessible. natko. an escorted tour is a necessity. and the rest of Germany (more in the western part than the east) have rooms for the disabled (these tend to be in larger. and accessible activities. Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) offers transportation service for the disabled. and Canada. in larger cities. www. You can reserve your seat in advance and get information about traveling with a disability by calling the special Deutsche Bahn number for disabled travelers at % 01805/512-512. Thanks to its comprehensive accessibility. Several organizations offer tours designed to meet the needs of travelers with disabilities. bahn. www. Germany offers both (click on “Mobilität&Service” and “Handicap”). more modern hotels). 40215 Düsseldorf. www. has information on the accessibility of public buildings throughout Germany.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 95 If you can read German. under “Reiseinfos” (Travel Information). Many hotels in Berlin. or 605-366-0202. is the central organization in the country for all inquiries concerning barrier-free travel. Tour operators with trips to Germany include ߜ Accessible Journeys (% 800-846-4537 or 610-521-0339. national Tourism Coordination Agency for All People. Not all U-Bahn (subway) stations have wheelchair access. ߜ The Web site You-Too (www. disabilitytravel. Most of the older and less expensive pensions and guesthouses don’t have elevators.S. public buses are generally wheelchair accessible. pronounced roll-shtool) presents unique challenges. On the Web site. Kirchfeldstrasse accessible accommodations. For many wheelchair-bound travelers. you may want to use one of these resources: ߜ Nationale Koordinationsstelle Tourismus für Alle (NatKo. But others want the adventures of being on their own. or they may not be wide . You can also find information (in English) for disabled travelers on its Web site. including free seating reservations for travelers in wheelchairs. you can find special offers and a list of German tour operators offering special tours and travel opportunities.

” earlier in this section). or Gruppen (group) tickets. dance clubs. A network of gay or gay-friendly restaurants. Frankfurt. all that matters is that two (or more) individuals travel together. Gay and lesbian couples (or friends) qualify for family tickets on public transportation in many Germany cities. or use one of the travel agencies that specializes in travel for people with disabilities (see “Locating resources. most restaurants are happy to accommodate people with disabilities. lesbian). gay) or lesbisch (lez-bish. and gay tourism.96 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany enough for a wheelchair. . Berlin. Larger theaters and performing-arts venues are often wheelchair accessible. and stages its famous Loveparade in mid-July. call first). historical areas. too. and community centers exists throughout the country. Munich. and Cologne all have large gay communities. Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians Germany is one of the most “developed” countries in the world when it comes to gay pride. Also keep in mind that in older. looking at vineyards and castles. but gay life flourishes outside the big cities. too (again. in small towns and large. Find information on the Web at www. Most of the top sights in the country are wheelchair accessible. Ask about this issue before you reserve. cafes. With most family. If you are schwul (shwool. Although not all restaurants provide wheelchair stores. celebrates its Christopher Street Day and Parade around the third weekend in June. Celebrating gay pride in Germany Every summer. Hamburg. Lesbigay travelers may want to time their visits to coincide with these big festivals: ߜ Berlin holds its annual Gay & Lesbian Street Festival in mid-June. parades and special events celebrate gay pride. gay culture. although calling ahead to make arrangements and getting directions to special entrances and/or elevators always is a good idea. bars. you have to deal with cobblestones. If you’re interested in gliding down the Rhine and Mosel rivers. ߜ Munich celebrates Christopher Street Day in mid-July. the Köln-Düsseldorfer (KD) line has wheelchair-accessible boats (see Chapter 19 for more about KD and Rhine journeys).de. you’ll find plenty to do in Deutschland.

pinkpassport. Stadt means “city. because Berlin is such a great destination for gay tours). That may explain why German gays and lesbians today are so politically active and determined not to tolerate discrimination. ߜ Hamburg celebrates with a Gay Pride Parade and Festival around June 8 to 10. untold thousands of homosexuals were arrested and sent to their deaths in labor camps. Between 1933 and with its section on gay and lesbian travel.germany-tourism. Researching German lesbigay life on the Web The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. this site enables you to access a lesbigay guide for each city you want to visit.stadt. leading up to and during World War II. The following are just a few of the other Web sites you may want to check out as you begin to plan your trip to Germany: ߜ PinkPassport (www. Germany seems to fall below the radar screen of most gay tour operators (too bad. ߜ Frankfurt’s Christopher Street Weekend takes place around the third weekend in July. contact IGLTA (% 800-448-8550. ߜ Cologne’s Christopher Street Weekend usually is the first weekend in This site is a destination service provider for international gay travelers.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 97 Pride and politics Perhaps some of the openness of gay life in Germany today has to do with the murderous antihomosexual policies of the Nazis. is a good place to begin researching your trip. de or www. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) maintains a worldwide network of gay and lesbian travelagent professionals who can help you plan your trip.cometogermany. Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators If you want to keep your hard-earned travel money you can use a gay travel service. For information on the nearest IGLTA travel agent and gay-friendly resources in Germany.”) .de: One of the best all-purpose gay sites — albeit the Web site is in German — for lesbigay travelers planning a trip to Germany. www. ߜ www. (By the way. Unfortunately. You can select a city in Germany and find out pertinent travel-related information.

frankfurt. the largest in in large part because many Jewish people from the former Soviet Union are choosing to live in or www. The most moving memorials are at Dachau (Chapter 15). near and request a copy of Germany for the Jewish Traveler. www.gaykoeln. .com. banishment.cometogermany. Jews from all levels of society contributed to German Jewish life in Germany dates back hundreds of years. www. For assistance in planning your itinerary. completed in Berlin in 2005 between the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz. numbering around when systematic persecution. Large Jewish communities flourished in cities throughout Germany until the Nazi era. Throughout the country. Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany In this guidebook. and Buchenwald (Chapter 14). Try the following Web sites for information on specific cities: www. Another is the Holocaust memorial. Several places are dedicated to remembering the Jewish experience in this country. One of the most remarkable is the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) in Berlin (Chapter 12).berlin. and extermination policies created horrors that are almost beyond comprehension. Special and very emotional issues confront Jewish visitors to Germany. contact the German National Tourist Office ( or www. synagogues have been restored. This free booklet presents an overview of Jewish history and lists recommended places to visit and what to see. seizure of property and assets. Throughout the centuries. www. Germany’s Jewish population is the third-largest in Western Europe. and memorials and www.000. I can’t even begin to scratch the surface of this huge and sensitive and one of the few that’s actually near Weimar. The Germany you visit today is a democratic federal republic sensitive to the past.98 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ Specific city Web sites.

.state. Applying for a U. or a major post office. passport office. To find your regional passport office. passport If you’re applying for a first-time passport.S. state. or call the National Passport Information Center (% 877-487-2778) for automated information. but the process takes some time. or probate court. If you’re a citizen of the United States. http://travel.html.state. or Canada. D Getting a Passport A valid passport is the only legal form of identification accepted around the world. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world. You can’t cross an international border without one.S. State Department at passport.Chapter 10 Taking Care of the Remaining Details In This Chapter ᮣ Obtaining a passport ᮣ Taking care of your health: Travel and medical insurance ᮣ Communicating via cellphone and e-mail ᮣ Dealing with airline security measures o you have an up-to-date passport? Have you taken steps to meet your health needs while on your trip? Are you wondering how to use a cellphone or access e-mail while in Germany? This chapter gives you the information you need. Complete a passport application in person at a U. a federal. Australia. follow these steps: 1. go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U. Getting a passport is easy. either check the U.S. you must have a valid passport to enter Germany. State Department passport Web

and the United Kingdom: ߜ Australians can visit a local post office or passport You can also . Ontario K1A 0G3 (% 800-567-6868.state. Submit two identical passport-size photos. but it can take longer during busy periods (especially spring) for details on how and where to apply. Using this service. www.100 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany 2.gc. Whether you’re applying in person or by mail. In addition. a passport is valid for five years and costs $82. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport. American Passport Express (% 800-455-5166. Forms can be completed and printed online at the Web site. For those 15 and You often find businesses that take these photos near a passport office.ppt. 4. but they must meet the same requirements for all passport photographs. you can receive your passport in as little as 24 hours. grainy-looking photos composed of visible dots are not acceptable. processing normally takes three weeks. Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade. a passport is valid for ten years and costs $97. state or military ID. you can renew the passport by mail for $ or Social Security card also is a good idea. Ottawa. For general information. and from the central Passport Office. at post offices. Present a certified birth certificate as proof of citizenship. Note: You can’t use a strip from a photo-vending machine because the pictures aren’t identical. Pay the fee. you can download passport applications from the U. www. If you have a passport in your current name that was issued within the past 15 years and you were older than 16 when it was issued. You may submit digital photos that have been printed on your printer at home. call the Australia State Passport Office (% 131-232 toll-free from Australia). com) is a service that can expedite the processing of your first-time passport application. but applications must be submitted in person. Canada. call the National Passport Agency (% 202-647-0518).passports. the digital photographs must have a continuous-tone image that looks very photolike. State Department passport Web site (http://travel. New Zealand. Applying for other passports The following list offers more information for citizens of Australia. measuring 2 inches by 2 inches in size. ߜ Canadians can pick up applications at passport offices throughout Canada. 3. Bringing along your driver’s license. or log on to www. For people 16 and older. and paying the appropriate fees.S.

Make sure. Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance Three kinds of travel insurance are available: trip-cancellation insurance. However. and lost-luggage insurance. ߜ United Kingdom residents. Note: Many tour operators include insurance in the cost of the trip or can arrange insurance policies through a partnering provider. Some experts suggest you avoid buying insurance from . Protect yourself further by paying for the insurance with a credit card — by law.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 101 download an application form from the Passport Office Web site.passports. though. For information. a convenient and often cost-effective way for the traveler to obtain insurance. For more insured. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. govt. and the type of trip you’re taking.) A good resource is “Travel Guard Alerts. medical but expect to pay between 5 percent and 8 percent of the vacation itself. ߜ New Zealanders can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the Passports Office Web site. www. Applications must be accompanied by two identical passport-size photographs and proof of Canadian citizenship. depending on the cost and length of your trip. however. or log on to www. your age and health. as many travelers discovered who tried to cancel their trips in October 2001 because they were wary of flying. or about three weeks by mail. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears.” a list of companies considered high-risk by Travel Guard International (www. that the tour company is a reputable one. Processing takes five to ten days if you apply in person. if you already have a passport.ukpa. The cost of travel insurance varies widely. to travel to other EU countries. or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. if you have to go home early. consumers can get their money back on goods and services not received if they report the loss within 60 days after the charge is listed on their credit-card statement. such as Germany. contact the Passports Office at % 0800225-050 in New Zealand or 04-474-8100. not a passport. Here is my advice on all three: ߜ Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a as a member of the European Union. need only an identity card. carrying the document with you is a good idea. contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (% 0870-521-0410.

com) or Travel Assistance International (TAI) (% 800-821-2828. If you require additional medical up to approximately $635 per checked bag. Travel Guard International (% 800-826-4919. For more information. and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. www.accessamerica. Even if your plan covers overseas treatment. www. As a safety net. detailing the luggage contents. saying it’s better to buy from a third-party insurer than to put all your money in one place. or Travelex Insurance Services (% 888457-4602. you must report delayed.travelguard. for general information on TAI’s services. Travel Insured International (% 800-243-3174. find out whether your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy. because it’s usually overpriced. or buy the BagTrak product from Travel Guard (% 800-826-4919. checked baggage is covered for up to $2. most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront and send you a refund only after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance company.07 per pound. damaged.medexassist. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability. travelinsured. For travel overseas. portions of international trips). you may want to buy travel medical insurance. www. On international flights (including U. baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9. try MEDEX Assistance (% 410-4536300. www. and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront before reimbursing you only after you return money.worldwide assistance.travelex-insurance. www. The airlines are required to deliver luggage. or lost baggage within four hours of arrival. www.S. Don’t buy insurance at the On domestic flights. immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport. com). Worldwide Assistance Services (% contact TAI’s service provider. contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (% 866-807-3982. directly to your house or destination free of charge. . If your luggage is lost. because many valuables (including ߜ Lost-luggage insurance is not necessary for most travelers. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage. guard. once found. For most airlines.102 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the tour or cruise company you’re traveling per ticketed passenger. www. most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage. get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travelinsurance package.

sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners. in Canada. ask the concierge or hotelkeeper to recommend a local doctor. pronounced artst. you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. which immediately alerts doctors to your condition and gives them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. . For travel abroad. In a life-threatening situation. and they take turns staying open all night and on weekends. you can call the Ärtzlicher Notdienst (Medical Emergency Service) listed in the telephone directory. For conditions such as epilepsy.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 103 Staying Healthy When You Travel Getting sick will ruin your vacation. may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. A notice will be posted in the window providing the address and telephone number of the closest on-duty for tips about travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and lists of local English-speaking doctors. talk to your doctor before leaving on a provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. com. If you have a serious and/or chronic illness. For domestic trips. The word for hospital is Krankenhaus (pronounced kronk-in-house). or heart problems. diabetes. If you have an emergency and need a prescription filled after-hours or on weekends. Pharmacies are open regular shopping hours. go to any pharmacy. the number for general emergencies. most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (% 800-311-3435. (Arzt. www. make sure the box or container has the pharmacy’s label with your name on it. Bring all your medications with you. www. is the German word for a medical doctor. the bugs weren’t listening to me any more than they probably listen to you). last time I checked.S. 416-652-0137. cdc. The Web site dial % 112 (a free call anywhere in Germany). see the previous section. medicalert.istm. if you need to carry medications with you onboard.tripprep. (Remember: Current airline security regulations do not allow you to carry on liquids in containers larger than 3 ounces. and prescriptions for more (in generic.) At night and on weekends. If you fall ill while traveling. iamat. www. so I strongly advise against it (of course. The Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (% 716-754-4883 or. For information on purchasing additional medical insurance for your trip.) A pharmacy in Germany is called an Apotheke (pronounced ah-po-tay-kuh). not brand-name. wear a MedicAlert identification tag (% 888-633-4298. form) if you worry that you’ll run out. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.

Having an unlocked phone enables you to install a cheap.S. If your cellphone is on a GSM system. if you want to purchase a German SIM card in Germany. prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in Germany. I’ve found. the staff will be able to direct you to the nearest cybercafe. I provide general information on using cellphones and sending or receiving e-mail in Germany. renting a phone is a good idea. only a limited number of carriers use GSM.104 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail The cheapest and easiest way to call home from Germany. much lower calling rates. you can purchase a prepaid German SIM card with call credit already incorporated and easily add more talk time to the SIM card if needed.50 in western Europe. and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Although you can rent a phone from any number of German sites. just call your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to use the phone with a local provider. Unfortunately. For that reason. per-minute charges can be high — usually $1 to $1. The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles). (Show your phone to the salesperson. If you’re accustomed to using a cellphone. seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. Collecting e-mail is fairly easy in Germany: If you can’t do it at your hotel. If you have an unlocked phone. you either need to have a friend or relative in Germany purchase the card for you or buy one in North America before your departure.) You’ll get a local phone number — and much. Motorola. Using a cellphone outside the U. However. Many cellphone operators sell “locked” phones that restrict you from using any removable computer memory phone chip (called a SIM card) other than the ones they supply. not all phones work on all networks. although possible. In this section. For many. costs a lot. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. a big. in Canada. keep in mind that your U. is to use a prepaid phone card and the hotel phone. from Andorra to Uganda. but it can be done. so you need to check with your carrier. you’ll be asked for proof of residency. or Samsung models are so equipped — you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe. That’s why it’s important to buy an “unlocked” world phone from the get-go. phone won’t work in Germany without a special chip. and renting a phone in Germany. In the U.S.S. Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. and you have a world-capable multiband phone — many Sony Ericsson. Getting an already-locked phone unlocked can be a complicated process. including kiosks at airports .

com). These kiosks. and www. but others charge high rates to go online. And most public libraries around the world offer Internet access free or for a small and RoadPost (% 888-290-1606 or 905-2725665. Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. The bottom line: Shop around. Aside from formal cybercafes. Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (% 800-872-7626. In Germany. Finding a city in Germany that doesn’t have a few cybercafes is hard to do. www. But even if you don’t have a computer. The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price mean they need to be avoided whenever possible. which can save you big bucks. Some business centers in large luxury hotels are free for guests. Of course.htm. simply call % 703222-7161 between 9 a. www. and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need. where local phone-rental agencies often bill in local currency and may not let you take the phone to another country. I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. You’ll usually pay $40 to $50 per week.intouchglobal.m. Phone rental isn’t cheap. most youth hostels nowadays have at least one computer with Internet access. make sure the phone works. That way you can give loved ones and business associates your new number. and 4 p. and tourist information offices around the world.roadpost. and take the phone wherever you go — especially helpful for overseas trips through several countries. a mobile phone is called a Handy (pronounced as it’s spelled). which you’ll also see in shopping malls. or go to http://intouch Although no definitive directory exists for cybercafes — they are. .m. InTouch also will advise you for free on whether your existing phone will work overseas. Give them your itinerary. independent businesses — two places to start looking are at www. though. local rental companies often offer free incoming calls within their home countries.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 105 and at car-rental agencies. you still can access your e-mail and even your office computer from cybercafes. using your own laptop — or even a personal digital assistant (PDA) or electronic organizer with a modem — gives you the most flexibility. give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. If you’re traveling to Europe. hotel lobbies.cybercaptive. Accessing the Internet away from home You have any number of ways to check your e-mail and access the Internet on the road. plus airtime fees of at least a dollar a minute. after all.

Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail. you can use the free mail2web service ( to view and reply to your home e-mail. (followed by the U. the current buzzword in computer access is WiFi (wireless fidelity). For more and Wayport (www. just set yourself up on a nice couch in the lobby.11b/WiFi card (around $50) into your have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. you may want to open a free. Going Wireless If you’re bringing your own serves up wireless connections at more than or a phone line. networking hardware.personaltelco. You sign up for wireless access service much as you do cellphone service. The companies’ pricing policies can be byzantine. com) providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. Some places also provide free wireless networks in cities around the world.cgi/WirelessCommunities.11b wireless Ethernet connection).t-mobile. with a variety of monthly. Boingo (www. but in general you pay around $30 a month for limited access — and as more and more companies jump on the wireless bandwagon. per-connection. Mac owners have their own networking technology called Apple AirPort. index. look into a service called GoToMyPC (www. and Japan). If your ISP doesn’t have such an interface.mail2web. iPass (www. and retailers are signing on as wireless hotspots where you can get highspeed connection without cable wires. If you need to access files on your office computer. Best of all. primarily in the U. The service offers top-quality security. hotel lobbies. and more and more hotels. . Many laptops sold during the last year have built-in WiFi capability (an 802. but Hotmail has severe spam problems.106 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany To retrieve your e-mail.K. use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe computer to access the GoToMyPC system.000 Starbucks coffee shops nationwide. you don’t need to be staying at the Four Seasons to use the hotel’s network. If you have an older computer. prices are likely to get even more competitive.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account automatically.wayport. you can plug an 802. through a plan offered by one of several commercial companies that have made wireless service available in airports. and per-minute plans. but if you’re worried about hackers. The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere — even a cybercafe — provided your target PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option.ipass. T-Mobile Hotspot (http://hotspot. ask your Internet service provider (ISP) whether it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account.S.gotomypc. and coffee shops. To locate these free hotspots. go to www.

and printing out your boarding pass — and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so. Wherever you go. accessing your reservation. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. In addition. a spare phone cord. Generally. most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems. and many hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable. which then tells you how to set up your computer for your destination. If you’re traveling outside the reach of your ISP. bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. you will need to show your passport at check-in).i2roam. go to and click on “Individual Purchase. Bring a current. major ISPs have local access numbers around the world. airports. you’ll be . www. you’ll be fine as long as you arrive at the airport one hour before a domestic flight and two hours before an international flight. If you have an E-ticket. the security checkpoint. security procedures at U. tell an airline employee and she’ll probably whisk you to the front of the line. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat. Keeping Up with Airline Security With the federalization of airport security.S. (Children younger than 18 do not need government-issued photo IDs for domestic flights. online check-in is available for domestic flights only. enabling you to go online by simply placing a local call.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 107 If WiFi isn’t available. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport (for international if you show up late. you can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from your home computer.S. but they do for international flights to most countries. Check your ISP’s Web site or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home. bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters. and how much it will cost. and you’ll be required to show your passport at that time. And E-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete.) The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U. (At present.) If you’re using a kiosk at the airport. and sometimes even the gate. if you’re flying on to Germany you’ll have to use the “oldfashioned” airport check-in at the airline’s ticket counter. Call your hotel in advance to see what your options are. For a list of iPass providers. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline’s Web site. the iPass network has dial-up numbers in most of the world’s countries. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider. and a spare Ethernet network cable — or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.” One solid provider is i2roam (% 866-811-6209 or 920-235-0475.

except for folks escorting disabled passengers or children. and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine — but security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee cup. For more information on the locks. The general rule is that sharp things are out. nail clippers are okay. but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available. Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security. but some doozies it’s still considered a personal item. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag. or laptop bag. check its Web site (www. as long as it has a laptop in it. such as a purse. visit www. the airline will provide a wheelchair. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items. Security-checkpoint lines are getting shorter. . Bring food in your carryon instead of checking public/index. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. however.jsp) for details. Look for Travel Sentry–certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www. call before you go. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks. Curbside check-in also is a good way to avoid lines.S. your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage.108 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany able to do so using most airline kiosks. a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system.tsa. plus a personal item. com). a few airlines still ban curbside check-in. tell an airline employee. You can now purchase luggage locks that enable screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary.travelsentry. Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. for some reason) for bombs. If you’ve got metallic body parts. Travelers in the U. because explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate. briefcase. These locks are approved by the TSA and can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. are allowed one carry-on bag.brookstone.

Part III Northern and Eastern Germany .

. . bordering the Baltic and the North Sea. I introduce you to the best places to visit in this newly opened region: Dresden. In Chapter 14. From Hamburg you can make an easy side trip to beautiful Lübeck. city of Goethe and one of Germany’s cultural jewels. I also tell you about visiting the Thuringian Forest and taking a boat trip into the scenic region known as Saxon Switzerland. the country’s “new” capital. Leipzig. the region’s largest city and greatest port. a busy business city where the “peaceful revolution” began. Since reunification in 1990. eastern Germany has been in the midst of a major building and rebuilding boom. Northern Germany. with its superb museums. full of proud reminders of its seafaring past. I devote two chapters to Berlin.H In this part . Chapter 11 fills you in on all the Berlin basics: getting there. In Chapter 14. and location on the Elbe River. and nowhere more so than in Berlin. . getting around. istory has left its mark throughout northern and eastern Germany. and Weimar. with so many historic buildings that UNESCO recognizes the city as a World Heritage Site. All three of these cities were members of the powerful Hanseatic League that ruled the seas and dominated trade in northern Europe for hundreds of years. or Bremen. I tell you all about Hamburg. historic panache. and finding the best hotels and restaurants. I devote Chapter 12 to exploring the largest and most exciting city in Germany. is the focus of Chapter 13.

But.Chapter 11 Settling Into Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Berlin ᮣ Traveling from the airport into the city ᮣ Orienting yourself to the neighborhoods ᮣ Getting around by subway. even if you don’t speak German.S. both triumph and tragedy. The wall went up in 1961. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. artistic brilliance.” That old song lyric meaning “Berlin always remains Berlin” still holds true. When you’re in Berlin. gives the city an added bite.” B . have always been a breed apart. for my money. or raunchy as you want them to be. You feel a sense of immediacy in Berlin because everything is happening at once — past. during the Berlin Airlift of 1948. You can dive into Berlin on many levels. and for almost 30 years. laced with sharp-edged humor and sarcastic irreverence. Your experiences can be as sophisticated.. This city has seen it all — Prussian power. even as the city reinvents itself yet again. much of Berlin was reduced to smoldering rubble. By the end of World War II (WWII). you see a city in transition. train. Later. and Russian sectors. The city then was divided into U. and future meet and meld all over the place. a fizz and a flair and a drive that you find nowhere else in Germany. cultured. endless political upheaval. Their cosmopolitan live-and-let-live attitude. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. and I would urge anyone visiting Germany to spend at least a couple of days here. part of the reason why a visit here is so intriguing. British. physically and politically. and bus ᮣ Choosing your hotel ᮣ Picking a good restaurant ᮣ Finding a cafe or brewpub erlin is. Berliners. Now. and Nazi terror — and survived to tell the tale. Berlin once again is the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany. food and supplies had to be flown in because the Soviets blockaded the city. perhaps because they’ve been through so much. Berlin was split in two. In many ways it’s a new city — and yet. Berlin has a kind of inexhaustible energy. present. with the wall down and Deutschland reunited. the most exciting city in Europe.

(For information on public transportation. the “new” center of Berlin. Friedrichstrasse. you can connect to the U-Bahn or the S-Bahn (elevated train). The X9 takes about 20 minutes to reach Zoo Station.10€ ($2. which travels down Kurfürstendamm and takes about 30 minutes. tickets for each of them cost 2. the central train station in the western part of the city near Kurfürstendamm. The facility recently was revamped to make it more the regular two-zone A/B fare. train. open daily 7:30 a. To get into central Berlin from Tegel. Berlin has two airports. see “Getting Around Berlin.m. At the train station.” later in this chapter. depending on what airline you use. Delta flies from New York JFK to Berlin Tegel).m. is on the outskirts of central Berlin in Reinickedorf.) ߜ TXL Express Bus runs about every ten minutes between the airport and Potsdamer Platz. Another bus that goes to Zoo Station is Bus 109. where you also find the taxi stand.) where you can pick up free city-transit maps and general-interest brochures and buy a bus ticket into town.50). The X9 also goes to the Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station).S. both with easy public-transportation connections to the city at standard public fares. From there you can change to the subway and reach any destination. and Unter den Linden in Mitte. Inside the another express bus.112 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Getting There You can arrive in Germany’s capital and largest city by plane. you can take a bus or taxi. . you find currency-exchange windows and a small branch of the tourist information center (no phone. Berlin’s main and most convenient airport. you have to change planes in Frankfurt or another European city. Berlin’s main tourist information center is at the nearby Europa Center (see “Finding Information After You Arrive” later in this chapter). Buses arrive outside the airport terminal. connects to the Jakob-Kaiser-Platz U-Bahn (underground train) station. or car. On all other flights from the United States. use euro coins (no bills) to buy your ticket from the driver. ߜ A taxi ride to central Berlin (east or west) costs 16€ to 20€ ($20– $25) and takes about 20 minutes. Arriving at Berlin International Airport in Tegel Tegel (TXL) airport (% 0180/5000-186. ߜ Bus X9.–7 p. Four buses run from the airport into central Berlin. airlines to offer direct flights to Berlin from within the United States (Continental flies from Newark to Berlin Tegel. www. By plane Continental and Delta are the only U. On the bus.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 113 A tale of three airports Tempelhof. now mostly used for low-cost airlines and European charter flights. you can take the U7 subway to Bahnhof Zoo in about 50 minutes. built in the 1920s. or you can take Bus 171. and other Allied forces brought food and supplies to the city during the Soviet blockade. All air traffic will then be consolidated into a single hub called Berlin Brandenburg International Airport. By train You can reach Berlin by train from everywhere in Europe. Tegel also will close. a shuttle service that runs from the airport to the S-Bahn station and the Rudow U-Bahn station. The easiest way to get into town from this airport is by Airport Express. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). the U. During the Cold War. www.10€ ($2. Tempelhof was closed in October 2004 and a massive $4-billion expansion of Schönefeld airport now is underway. U-Bahn. Bus. when All longdistance trains now arrive and depart from the spectacular new Hauptbahnhof (main train station). was Berlin’s main airport during the Third Reich. located about 24km (15 miles) southeast of the city.S. Schönefeld. From the U-Bahn station. served travelers to the city’s Communist. Taxis wait outside the terminal. www. A taxi ride to the Alexanderplatz area in Mitte takes about 45 to 60 minutes and costs about 50€ ($62). The airport also was the base for the Berlin Airlift in 1948. Europe’s newest and largest train station. When the project is completed. The S-Bahn station is a ten-minute walk from the airport terminal. is the old East Berlin airport. or S-Bahn fare is 2. in 2011. call the Deutsche Bahn (% 11861).hbf-berlin. when this spectacular new travel hub opened.50). Until 2006. The Hauptbahnhof and all of Berlin’s smaller railway stations (for regional service) are connected to public buses. reunified Berlin was . subways (U-Bahn).de). Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof All long-distance high-speed trains now arrive at and depart from the Hauptbahnhof. Europa Platz 1 (% 0800-1507090 for train schedules. an S-Bahn that leaves the Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld station about every 20 minutes for central Berlin.S.-built Tegel airport served West Berlin. stopping at Alexanderplatz and Fredrichstrasse in Berlin Mitte (eastern Berlin).de). and Bahnhof Zoo (about a 30minute journey) in the western center of Berlin. Arriving at Berlin-Schönefeld Schönefeld (SXF) (% 01805/000-186. As part of a new plan for Berlin airports. while another airport. eastern sector. For 24-hour train information.

The drive from Frankfurt or Munich takes about eight hours. you’ll want to keep the car parked at your hotel or in a garage. Unless you arrive by a local. the pavilion is open daily from 6 a.). where you find dozens of shops and food options. the SchauLUST Museum Pass (see Chapter 12). Inside the station. The fate of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Usually called Bahnhof Zoo (Zoo Station. to 10 p. the main artery in western Berlin. % 01805/996-633). Trains arrive and depart on the lowest level (track numbers easily identified). you’ll be pulling into this remarkable.). Unless you know this huge city well. for the first time in its history. the name given to Berlin’s tourist information centers. underground trains (U-Bahn). concert venues. three enter from the east. On the main floor at the north end of the station there’s a BERLIN infostore (open daily 8 a. you can pick up a free public-transportation map and buy tickets and special passes for buses. In fact. this was the main western train station until the Hauptbahnhof opened in 2006. Hardenbergplatz 11.–10 p. and elevated trains (S-Bahn).114 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany served by several smaller stations.” later in this chapter). getting to your hotel from the Hauptbahnhof couldn’t be easier. See “Driving a car. for general driving tips in the city. By car Four Autobahn (freeway) routes enter Berlin from western Germany. where you can purchase train tickets and make seat reservations (both centers open daily 6 a. to handle train tickets and information.m. it’s now used only for regional trains but remains a busy hub for local U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains. Whether you’re staying in western or eastern Berlin.–10 p. and tickets to all of Berlin’s opera houses.m. however. buy the Berlin Welcome Card (described under “Getting Around Berlin.000 travelers every day with a minimum of confusion. getting around by public transportation is far easier than by car. It’s an enormous place but it’s been designed to facilitate up to 300.75). to 9 p. The entrance to the S-Bahn (marked by a green S) is on the second floor of the station. the train travel office Reisezentrum Bahnhof Zoo (% 030/19419) is open daily from 7 a. Berlin has one central station. After you’re in Berlin.m.” later in this chapter. and theaters (half-price tickets are sold for performances that day). The station has two travel centers. the entrance to the U-Bahn (marked by a U) is on the first floor. At the BVG-Pavilion outside the station.m.m. depending on traffic. . user-friendly terminal.m. maps and Berlin-related books. a car is a nuisance.m. elevators (the entire station is barrier-free) or escalators carry you up to the first and second floors. Now.m. regional train. Located close to Kurfürstendamm. Here you can use the hotel booking service (3€/$3.

Even though the wall has been down since 1989. open daily from 10 a.m. open daily 8:30 a.m. The office is open Monday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 8 p. West Berlin’s glitziest artery was — and remains — the 4km-long (21⁄2mile) boulevard known as Kurfürstendamm. West Berlin was richer.m.40€ (50¢) per minute..m. The train station Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten. you find infostore branches in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). or the Ku-Damm for short.m. close to Bahnhof Zoo (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). The zoo .m. (Nov–Mar 10 a. open Monday through Friday from 8 a.). For first-time visitors.m. Scheidermannstrasse. to 6 p. The city’s main attractions now are spread almost evenly across the whole city. Kurfürstendamm 21 (at Joachimstaler Strasse). It’s open daily from 10 a. (Nov–Mar daily 10 a. the first and simplest way to understand Berlin is still to think in terms of the old political boundaries of West and East. ߜ In eastern Berlin.m. and wilder than its drab eastern counterpart. to 6 p.m.–6 p. bus and subway tickets.m. and in the Berlin Pavilion at the Reichstag. Orienting Yourself in Berlin Covering some 60 square miles. to 6 p..).Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 115 Finding Information After You Arrive At a BERLIN infostore.m.m. and half-price music and theater tickets. showier. to 8 p. and Sunday from 10 a. you can find information or book a hotel room (for a fee of 3€/$3.) Introducing western Berlin From 1961 to 1989. ߜ Another infostore is located under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at Alexanderplatz. Berlin has five walk-in infostores: ߜ The main office in western Berlin is in the newly revamped shopping “passage” called Neues Kranzler Eck. weekends 9 a. the SchauLUST museum pass (Chapter 12).m. it costs a minimum of 0.m. is the major transportation hub on the western side of the city and a good landmark for orienting yourself. complex metropolis can be difficult. (See the “Berlin Neighborhoods” map in this chapter. You can also buy the Berlin Welcome Card (see “Transportation basics” later in this chapter).–6 p. getting a handle on this sprawling.” earlier in this chapter).m. near the Ku-Damm.. to 7 p. to 6 p. West Berlin was an island of capitalism inside Communist East Germany. Berlin is one of the world’s largest cities. in the Hauptbahnhof (see “Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof. or Bahnhof Zoo for short. The infostores operate one information line (% 030/25-00-25).75).m.m.

116 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Berlin Neighborhoods Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Kur t-Sc h um ach er D am m SIEMENSSTADT SIEMENSSTADT To Berlin-Tegel Airport sse se tra s es stra e S e Se See “Charlottenburg Attractions” map Putlitzstrasse Lessin gstrasse Stromstr. ch g is b ur Brande n a sse Str m am nd ler l o z en oh er dt tä lfs do Ru r he ru hs e ric ass ied tr Fr S e See “Western Berlin Accomodations and Dining” map e ss ra St WILMERSDORF . Olbe ssstr Gau strassrse tr. Wittenbergplatz Kle Kons tan Stras zer se Uhlandstr. orfe Wilm e rsd Friedrich- TIERGARTEN S . See “Tiergarten-area Attractions” map Hohenst aufenstr. m dam rsten Kurfü HALENSEE S H Fehrbelliner Platz Bundesallee Grunewald S HOHENZOLLERNDAMM H m am nd r lle zo en oh SCHÖNEBERG rg bu se len tras k ec S M he isc S Hundekehlestrasse Breit e St rass e SCHÖNEBERG Dahlem FRIEDENAU Ha up tst ras se r. CHARLOTTENBURG Spandau Kaiserdamm Ma stra rchsse B str achass e strasse Weg TIERGARTEN Le ve tzo ws tra sse BELLEVUE S HANSAVIERTEL 17. Neue Kantstrasse CHARLOTTENBURG S Kantstrasse Leibniz- Savignyplatz S en rd be rg s tr ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN . S WESTKREUZ S SAVIGNYPLATZ m dam rsten Kurfü Tau en tz Str ass e er pest Budarasse St ien str . Damm eler kanal Goerd thafen Munich Wes trasse ohrn-S Max-D . Bismarckstr Ha Str.Allee F ra mm Spandauer Da Spree Ca ue rst r. Strasse des Juni Kaiser r Str. ms t isha Lew Europa Center urger Lietzenb i s ts tr.Augusta. Ott oSuh rAlle e nkl inst r Schloss Charlottenburg M . gens Sickin S i e m e ns s tra sse MOABIT Turmstra sse e wstrass Quitzo r e rg be e rle ass Pe Str Beusselstrasse Tegeler ier str end as or se ff- Schlossgarten Kaiserin.

Spre e strasse nan m se re St se as str T wBülo sse stra S-Bahn stop S . Str as se M da üh m len m - den Unter den Lin Friedrich- Museumsinsel NIKOLAIVIERTEL Ge rt str raud as en se - Kar l-M arx -Al lee JANNOWITZBRÜCKE TIERGARTEN UNTER DEN LINDEN BERLINMITTE S n d w ehrkanal Schöneb Potsda mer S tra sse e ANHALTER BAHNHOF Lin den stra s La S fe r em p e l hofe r Ufe Gitschiner Strasse r La n d sse stra rck o Y S Gne is YORCKSTRASSE KREUZBERG enau stras se Kolonnenstrasse Katzbackstrasse Dudenstrasse Columbiadamm asse nstr hafe Flug To BerlinSchönefeld Airport B o elck es trasse Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Hei nric Strah-Hein sse e- POTSDAMER S Leipziger Platz PLATZ e Leipziger Strass se Or an ien str ass e wehrka nal Urb a nst ras se Hase nheid e Brü stra cken sse - Gr eif sw al d er e ass str ide He rg U er h al e r St rasse Invalidenst e rass See Berlin-Mitte maps d e rs xan Ale tr.platz FRIEDRICHht c e STRASSE kn b S Lie rl Ka Mo lls t r.5 mi N 0.Pie elm h il W O ra n ien S Strass e HAUPTBAHNHOF– LEHRTER BAHNHOF Sp ree Pariser Platz S bur HACKESCHER ger Str MARKT Alexander. S .5 km PRENZLAUER BERG Prin zen stra sse Str as se t Rosen en alid Inv S sse stra ck.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 117 WEDDING Schönhauser Allee nn Fe se as str s au Ch e ss tra es se NORDBAHNHOF S 0 0 0.

and department stores. Dahlem was the site of western Berlin’s major museums. with lots of bars and clubs. After WWII. near Potsdamer Platz. but you may want to come here to visit the Brücke Museum. Dahlem Now the university district. a tree-lined square a short walk north of Kurfürstendamm. Today. which runs through it. Charlottenburg. most of them have now moved farther into the city. theaters. Along the famous Ku-Damm. Schöneberg Like Kreuzberg. with its lovely gardens and nearby museums: the Ägyptisches (Egyptian) Museum.118 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany itself is part of the Tiergarten. and Greece. Charlottenburg also is the home of the Deutsche Oper Berlin (German Opera House). Schöneberg developed in the 19th century as an independent suburb for workers. restaurants. many of whom have now lived here for 30 years or more. Dahlem originally was established as an independent village to the southwest of Berlin’s center. Starting in the 1960s and 1970s. a shopping center and entertainment complex. close to . This neighborhood no longer is a convenient place to stay. the former Yugoslavia. the neighborhood remains funky around the edges. a beautiful park stretching east and ending at the cultural center known as the Kulturforum. you find the best concentration of hotels. one of Berlin’s three opera houses. dedicated to the history of divided Berlin. The area is more residential than hotel-oriented. and the Berggruen Sammlung (Collection). Charlottenburg The district known as Charlottenburg is the wealthiest and most commercialized in western Berlin. which has plenty of hotels and pensions (B&Bs). nightclubs. the area was rebuilt as a middle-class neighborhood. Although gentrification is taking place. the Bröham Museum. Kreuzberg is where you find the new Jüdisches (Jewish) Museum and the small museum called Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. about 35 percent of its population is composed of Gastarbeiter (guest workers) from Turkey. Kreuzberg traditionally has been the poorest and most crowded of western Berlin’s districts. however. because they have an interior courtyard) constructed for the workers of a rapidly industrializing Prussia. restaurants. Kreuzberg Filled with 19th-century tenement buildings (called Hinterhof. Charlottenburg’s regal centerpiece is Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace). The 22-story Europa Center. cafes. and cafes fill the neighborhood around Savignyplatz. makes a convenient base for visitors. The borough is centrally located. Up until reunification. the district became home to the city’s artistic countercultural scene. Upscale shops. shops. rises just across the plaza from the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis Kirche (Memorial Church) near the Ku-Damm and Zoo Station.

Berlin’s densest concentration of gay bars and clubs is in Schöneberg between Nollendorfplatz and Victoria-Luise-Platz. The Tiergarten park. occupying the northwest section of Tiergarten. originally intended as a backdrop to the grand avenues laid out by the German kaisers. Wilmersdorf The huge park called the Grünewald (groo-nuh-vald) takes up the western portion of this borough. Walter Gropius. which starts at the Brandenburg Gate and extends east. contains a series of residential buildings designed in the late 1950s by different architects. contains the Berlin Zoo in its southwest corner. is where you find the magnificently restored early-19th-century Schauspielhaus (theater). Closer in. home of the Philharmonic (Philharmonic Hall).” and it refers both to western Berlin’s massive urban park and a business-residential district of the same name. Berlin’s third opera house. Tiergarten is one of the best areas in Berlin for hotels and restaurants. (The Komische Oper. Tiergarten The name Tiergarten means “Animal Garden.) The beautiful neoclassical square called Gendarmenmarkt. This 38-sq. and other museums. just off Unter den Linden.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 119 the Ku-Damm. Wilmersdorf is a very pleasant borough in which to stay. the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). and Alvar Aalto. Wannsee is the most popular lake for swimming and boating. also is in Berlin-Mitte. The Tiergarten neighborhood also contains the Kulturforum. The Hansaviertel (Hans Quarter). including Le Corbusier. I recommend giving this fascinating area at least a full day of your time. in fact. this area was. with good U-Bahn connections and many hotels and pensions. the famed Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is the main opera house in eastern Berlin. toward the Ku-Damm. All in all.-km (15-sq. Wilmersdorf is a quiet residential neighborhood filled with an excellent assortment of hotels and pensions and plenty of low-key restaurants and cafes. now called Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt and used for .-mile) lake-filled forest begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm and is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. Both areas formerly stood behind the Berlin Wall and now are full of new buildings and ongoing construction. Tiergarten also is where you find the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag (Parliament) building. Berlin-Mitte symbolically begins at Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate.and 19th-century palaces and monuments. The oldest and most historic part of Berlin. on the east side of Tiergarten park. The grand boulevard called Unter den Linden. Berlin-Mitte has numerous attractions. Before the war and the division of the city. is lined with 18th. also called Stadtmitte (City Center) or just plain Mitte (Center). Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) Berlin-Mitte. is the new name of the central section of former East Berlin. the center of Berlin.

S-Bahn. at 368 m. www. Berlin’s Transport Authority (% 030/19449 24hour information line.120 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany concerts. short-term travelers will find little of interest. Friedrichstrasse. ferries on the lakes. Luxury boutiques and department stores crowd the street. bus. The system consists of the U-Bahn (underground train). Alexanderplatz. buses. and a few Strassenbahnen (streetcars) that still operate in eastern Berlin only.207 ft. is now the hippest neighborhood in eastern Berlin and a favored spot for young Berliners to live. You can also buy . the S-Bahn (surface or elevated train). safe. Going public: U-Bahn. and relatively inexpensive. Transportation basics You can buy your ticket at any U-Bahn station (at windows or machines that have English translations) or from a bus driver.bvg. and Strassenbahn Berlin’s excellent public-transportation system makes getting around fast.). is regaining its prewar reputation as Berlin’s preeminent shopping street. It’s now being completely redone. and even dedicated walkers won’t be able to cover it entirely on foot. and not to everyone’s liking: Eight skyscrapers will eventually surround Alexanderplatz and reduce the prominence of the Soviet-era Fernsehturm (TV tower). This well-integrated public-transport system is run by BVG. a square named for Russian Czar Alexander I. is a charming area restored to look as it did (with some contemporary touches) in Berlin’s medieval and baroque U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines converge at Friedrichstrasse train station. Luckily. the transportation hub of Berlin-Mitte. Prenzlauer Berg. Berlin has a comprehensive public transportation system. Gay and lesbian visitors may want to explore Prenzlauer Berg’s burgeoning gay cafe and club scene. At the eastern end of Unter den Linden. For a map of Berlin’s U-Bahn and S-Bahn. Getting Around Berlin Berlin is a huge city. see the inside back cover of this book. you find the marvelous Museumsinsel (Museum Island). (1. just south of Alexanderplatz along the Spree River. Period taverns and riverside restaurants make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque stroll. The Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). northeast of Mitte. which intersects Unter den Linden. one of the highest structures in Europe. convenient. site of four major museums. was the center of activity in the Soviet era. Except to check out the ongoing gentrification. The following sections describe the various options you have for getting from place to place.

m. and the routes are clearly marked in all stations and in the trains. you can get a Kurzstrecke (short-stretch) ticket for 1. A large U in a blue box identifies each station. B.m. which are announced. Zone C extends far beyond the city’s borders. which costs 16€ ($18) for 48 hours or 22€ ($24) for 72 hours.25) for zones A and B. The card is good for all public transportation in central Berlin (zones A. ߜ If you’re in Berlin for two days. ߜ The 7-Tage-Karte (7-day ticket) costs 25€ ($32) for zones A and B. One ticket enables you to change from U-Bahn to S-Bahn and to the bus during a two-hour period. good for two hours in zones A and B is 2. before your first trip. Service is fast and efficient. consider the Berlin Welcome Card. If yours hasn’t been validated. the office is open daily from 6 a.10€ ($2. Thirteen lines cover most of central Berlin.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 121 tickets and passes (and receive a free transportation map) at the BVGPavillion on Hardenbergplatz.or S-Bahn stops or 6 stops on a bus or streetcar). each car contains a map of .80€ ($7. all the way to Potsdam. and C). but after midnight only two lines — U9 and U2 — run on a limited schedule.20€ ($1. When purchasing tickets for public transportation. The entire transportation system runs on an honor system — you won’t find turnstiles or ticket collectors. For short hops (3 consecutive U. The fare is based on three zones (A. U-Bahn (underground train) The subway in Berlin is called the U-Bahn. to 10 p. You must validate your ticket by sticking it into one of the validation boxes on all U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms or inside buses and streetcars.50).50).m. they intersect at Bahnhof Zoo. directly outside Zoo Station. Ticket inspectors may suddenly appear to check everyone’s ticket. and C) and provides price reductions of up to 50 percent at many tourist attractions in Berlin. B. the following day and costs 5. In each car. you also have several money-saving options. S-Bahn (elevated train) The venerable elevated train system in Berlin is called the S-Bahn. Nine lines crisscross the city in all directions and extend to the far reaches of Brandenburg. All your sightseeing within the Berlin city limits will be in zones A and B. A regular Normaltarif or Einzelfahrscheine (one-way fare). Long-term tickets are validated only once. including the following: ߜ A Tageskarte (day ticket) is good on all forms of transportation from validation until 3 a. you find a map of the stops. you’re guilty of Schwarzfahren (black travel) and fined 75€ ($94) on the spot.

122 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
the stops, which are announced. A large S in a green circle identifies each station. S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations sometimes overlap, so you can change from one to the other. Service is basically nonexistent after midnight. The S-Bahn is particularly handy if you’re going from Bahnhof Zoo east to the Friedrichstrasse/Unter den Linden area or southwest to Grünewald and the lakes.

Riding atop one of Berlin’s double-decker buses (single-deckers also operate) is a fun way to see the city. A green H (for Haltstelle, or stop) in a yellow circle identifies each stop. Regular service begins about 5 a.m. and ends about midnight. Night buses (designated with an N) leave every half-hour, going west and east, from Bahnhof Zoo and Bahnhof Hackescher Markt (near Alexanderplatz in eastern Berlin). One of the best and cheapest sightseeing routes is on Bus 100, which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and travels through the Tiergarten, passing Bellevue Palace (the Berlin residence of the German president), the Reichstag, and the Victory Column all the way to the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Museum Island, and Alexanderplatz.

Strassenbahn (streetcar)
Streetcars, called Strassenbahnen, run in eastern Berlin only. Because you can get practically everywhere on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you probably won’t be using the streetcar. Ticket prices are the same as for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and buses.

Taking a taxi
Thousands of ivory-colored taxis cruise Berlin’s main streets. Hailing one during the day is easier than at night. The fare starts at 2.50€ ($3.10) and costs 1.55€ ($1.90) per kilometer (1⁄2 mile). For short distances, flag down a taxi and ask for the Winktarif: a special rate (3€/ $3.75) for a short lift. To order a taxi, call % 210-101. Tip taxi drivers by rounding up to the nearest euro.

Driving a car
I don’t recommend renting ein Auto in Berlin. Local drivers tend to be aggressive, and the street system itself can be fiendishly difficult to navigate. The public-transport system gets you everywhere you want at a fraction of the cost. If you’re out very late, you can grab a cab to get back to your hotel. The only time a car may come in useful is when you want to explore the surrounding countryside. The offices for Hertz (Budapester Strasse 37; % 030/262-1053) and Avis (Budapester Strasse 43; % 030/230-9370) are close to Bahnhof Zoo.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


If you drive in town, be aware that the right lanes in inner-city areas are often reserved for buses, taxis, and bicycles only. When turning right, you must give way to any vehicle (including bikes) in that lane. Some right-hand lanes are reserved for buses at stated times and otherwise can be used by cars. Also remember that in Germany, using a mobile phone while driving is against the law. In Berlin and throughout Germany, cars can park only on the right side of the road. In most inner-city areas, you must obtain a parking ticket at one of the street-side ticket machines to display on your dashboard. The police quickly tow cars that violate these laws. If that happens, you can go to any police station to find out where your car is. The whole process costs more than 150€ ($187) — and a great deal of time. Parking garages are more expensive than street parking, but they save you the potential hassle of getting towed.

Staying in Style
Finding a hotel room in Berlin is easy, unless a big trade fair or soccer match is happening in town. Prices generally are lower than in other major European cities. (You can find a good hotel in Berlin for less than 150€/$187 a night.) I do, however, strongly recommend that you reserve your room before you arrive. If you arrive in Berlin without a hotel room, you can go to one of the BERLIN infostores (for locations and opening hours see “Finding Information After You Arrive,” earlier in this chapter). For 3€ ($3.75), the infostore staff will find you a room. You can also book hotels by calling % 030/25-00-25. For locations of the hotels in this chapter, see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining.”

The top hotels
For details on two of the city’s best hotels, Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) and Kempinski Hotel Bristol ($$$$), see Chapter 22.

Arco Hotel
$ Schöneberg
This small, gay-friendly hotel is housed in a four-story turn-of-the-century building on a quiet street near the Ku-Damm. Most of the 21 fairly large rooms have high windows and modern furniture. Private bathrooms, all with showers, are on the small side. One of the nicest features is the airy breakfast room, which looks out on a courtyard garden (you can eat outside in warm weather). The English-speaking staff is friendly and helpful. One potential drawback: no elevator.

124 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining
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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


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126 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
See map p. 124. Geisbergstrasse 30, 10777 Berlin. % 030/218-8065. Fax: 030/21475178. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Ansbacher Strasse and west on Geisbergstrasse). Rates: 65€–97€ ($81–$121) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

$ Charlottenburg
Located on the top floors of a large apartment building, Artemisia is an excellent hotel for women only. The rooms are large, light, and free of froufrou but still have a warm ambience heightened by splashes of color. Ten of the 12 rooms have toilets and small showers. You can save money by renting one of the two rooms that share a toilet and shower. A private roof terrace with wonderful views over Berlin becomes a gathering spot on warm afternoons and evenings. See map p. 124. Brandenburgischestrasse 18, 10707 Berlin. % 030/873-8905. Fax: 030/861-8653. U-Bahn: Blissestrasse (then a 3minute walk northwest on Brandenburgischestrasse). Rates: 89€–115€ ($111–$144) double with bathroom; 79€–89€ ($99–$111) double without bathroom. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Art-Hotel Charlottenburger Hof
$ –$$ Charlottenburg
Located across from the Charlottenburg S-Bahn station, this budget hotel is one of the best and brightest in Berlin. This inexpensive property is unusually well decorated for its price range and offers several amenities, such as in-room safes, hair dryers, and laundry facilities. Primary colors of blue, yellow, and red (plus white) brighten some of the 45 contemporary-style rooms, a few of which have balconies. Rooms and bathrooms, which have showers, are fairly small. All guest rooms are equipped with computers that provide free Internet access. The breakfast buffet costs an additional 8€ ($ 10). See map p. 124. Stuttgarter Platz 14, 10627 Berlin. % 030/329-070. Fax: 030/332-3723. S-Bahn: Charlottenburg (the hotel is north of the station). Rates: 65€–125€ ($81–$156) double. AE, MC, V.

Baxpax Downtown Hostel Hotel
$ –$$ Mitte
If you’re looking for a really inexpensive place to stay in Berlin, check out this clean, friendly hostel/hotel in Mitte. You can stay in an eight-bed dorm room, a more private double room with a shower and toilet, or a small studio with a bathroom. Nothing fancy or frilly here: The rooms have been simply but nicely designed and there’s a cafe and a roof terrace for relaxing and meeting fellow backpackers and explorers. Baxpax has two other hostels in eastern Berlin in addition to this one: Baxpax Kreuzberg Hostel Berlin, Skalitzer Strasse 104 (% 030/6951-8322; S-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor),



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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin




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128 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
and Mitte’s Backpacker Hostel Berlin, Chauseestrasse 102 (% 030/28390935; U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). See map p. 127. Ziegelstrasse 28, 10117 Berlin. % 030/2787-4880. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse (then a 5-minute walk south on Tucholsky Strasse and west on Ziegelstrasse). Rates: 15€–18€ ($19–$22) dorm bed without bathroom; 59€ ($74) double room with shower and toilet; 75–119€ ($94–$149) studio/apartment with bathroom. MC, V.

Bleibtreu Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
If you’re looking for chic, central, contemporary digs near the Ku-Damm, this 60-room boutique hotel is the place for you. The rooms aren’t particularly large but are artfully designed and furnished. The furniture coverings are hypoallergenic, and no chemicals of any kind are used for cleaning. The small, stylish bathrooms have sinks of carved stone. Other features include remote-control-operated lights, wireless phones, fax machines in every suite, and electric awnings over street-facing windows. The hotel has a Wellness Center where you can take a pore-cleansing sauna. Restaurant 31, near the small lobby, lays out a healthy breakfast buffet (an extra 15€/$ 19); the bar is lively at night. See map p. 124. Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Berlin. % 030/884-740. Fax: 030/8847-4444. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). Rates: 132€–232€ ($165–$240) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Grand Hyatt Berlin
$$$$ Tiergarten
The Grand Hyatt Berlin, right smack-dab in the center of all the action in the new Potsdamer Platz area, is one of the coolest places to stay, and one of the more expensive. This big hotel, built in 1998 with 342 rooms, is sleek and glamorous throughout. Rooms are large and have beautiful wood finishes and wonderful bathrooms set up with Japanese-style soaking tubs. Restaurants include Vox, for Eurasian cuisine and sushi; Tizian, for international classics; and Bistro Dietrich, for casual cafe-style food. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. 124. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, 10785 Berlin. % 030/2553-1234. Fax: 030/2553-1235. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west to Marlene-Dietrich-Platz). Rates: 240€–430€ ($300–$537) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Alsterhof Berlin
$ –$$$$ Wilmersdorf
Location — just a few minutes walk from Bahnhof Zoo and the Ku-Damm — is this hotel’s greatest asset. If you’re in Berlin on business and need a reasonably priced full-service hotel in a central location, this place fills the bill. The 195 rooms are comfortable and quiet, and have plenty of extra

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


amenities (trouser press, safe, minibar, hair dryer), although they aren’t particularly stylish. You find a pool and sauna on the sixth floor. The breakfast buffet costs 16€ ($20). See map p. 124. Augsburger Strasse 5, 10789 Berlin. % 030/212-420. Fax: 030/2183949. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east across Joachimstaler Platz and east on Augsburger Strasse). Rates: 85€–200 ($108–$250) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Brandenburger Hof
$$$$ Charlottenburg
The beautifully appointed, 86-room Hotel Brandenburger Hof offers superior service, an on-site spa, and one of the top restaurants in Berlin. Centrally located in western Berlin, this Relais & Châteaux hotel is close to the Ku-Damm and the Tiergarten. The guest rooms are unusually large for Berlin and furnished in an elegant Bauhaus style that is rarely encountered in other hotels. Bathrooms have wood and granite finishes. You can enjoy the sumptuous breakfast buffet, included in the price of the room, in a glass-walled conservatory built around a Japanese garden. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Die Quadriga (named for the four-horse chariot atop the Brandenburg Gate), earned a Michelin star (see “Dining Out,” later in this chapter). See map p. 124. Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Berlin. % 030/214-050. Fax: 030/21405100. U-Bahn: Kurfurstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east on Augsburger Strasse and south on Rankestrasse to Eislebener Strasse). Rates: 245€–295€ ($306–$369) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Domus
$$ –$$$ Wilmersdorf
Set in an unusually pretty section of Wilmersdorf, down the street from St. Ludwig’s Church and within walking distance of the Ku-Damm, this modern 73-room hotel has a calm, appealing simplicity. The spacious rooms are quiet (thanks to soundproof windows) and tastefully decorated with highquality contemporary furniture (lots of light-colored wood). Rooms face the inner courtyard or the street. The bathrooms are unusually large and have either a shower or a tub. Breakfast is served in a lovely dining room. Free high-speed Internet service is a nice bonus. See map on p. 124. Uhlandstrasse 49, 10719 Berlin. % 030/880-3440. Fax: 030/88034444. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west on Hohenzollerndamm and north on Uhlandstrasse). Rates: 115€–150€ ($144–$187) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Pension Niebuhr
$ Charlottenburg
This pleasant, gay-friendly pension in Charlottenburg is one of the best deals in Berlin. The 12 rooms, all on the second floor of a turn-of-the-century apartment building (no elevator), have a fresh, modest flair. The furnishings and

130 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
color schemes are bright and cheerful. Three street-facing rooms have balconies; the rooms facing the courtyard (Hinterhof) can be a bit dark, but they’re very quiet. One bonus: Breakfast (5€/$ 6.25) is brought up to your room. See map p. 124. Niebuhrstrasse 74, 10629 Berlin. % 030/324-9595. Fax: 030/881-4707. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Niebuhrstrasse). Rates: 53€ ($66) double without bathroom; 72€ ($90) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

Pension Nürnberger Eck
$ Charlottenburg
If you’re seeking an atmospheric old-fashioned pension, try this one on the second floor of a building near the Europa Center, a shopping and entertainment complex. High-ceilinged rooms with heavy doors open off a long, dark hallway. Although the eight rooms are stylistically something of a mishmash, with patterned wallpaper, Oriental rugs, and big pieces of furniture, the pension does convey an Old Berlin charm. The bathrooms are a decent size, and the breakfast room is pleasant. See map p. 124. Nürnberger Strasse 24a, 10789 Berlin. % 030/235-1780. Fax: 030/2351-7899. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Tauentzienstrasse and south on Nürnberger Strasse). Rates: 70€–92€ ($87–$115) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Savoy Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
The quietly charming Savoy, which opened in 1930, has played host to more than a few celebrities through the years. You can’t beat the location, just a skip from the Ku-Damm, or the unobtrusively efficient service. The 125 rooms provide spacious and comfortable accommodations, with large bathrooms, but don’t look for any modern design touches here; the hotel is completely up-to-date with wireless and cable networks, but the décor remains resolutely old-fashioned. There’s a good restaurant, Weinrot, serving international and regional dishes, and if your room rate includes the breakfast buffet, you’re in for a treat. Nonsmokers may find the lingering cigar fumes from the Times Bar, just off the lobby, bothersome. See map p. 124. Fasanenstrasse 9–10, 10623 Berlin. % 800-223-5652 in the U.S. or 030/311-030. Fax: 030/3110-3666. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse and north on Fasanenstrasse). Rates: 152€–295€ ($190–$369) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Runner-up hotels
Ambassador Berlin
$$ Schöneberg A comfortable, old-fashioned “retro” look characterizes this hotel located near the huge Kaufhaus des Westens department store. See map p. 124.

Kurfürstendamm 101.ritz-carlton. See map p. atmospheric hotel is on the fourth floor of an Art Nouveau apartment house.hotelartnouveau. www. % 800-445-8667 in the U. Fax: 030/2190-2380. and 10719 Berlin. 124. Friedrichstrasse 158–164. Potsdamer Platz and offers a buffet breakfast overlooking the rooftops of Berlin. Ku’Damm 101 $$ Wilmersdorf A minimalist aesthetic. www. Fax: 030/2023-4269. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. Grolmanstrasse 35. See map p. . and Canada. ߜ Grand Hotel Esplanade. % 030/327-7440. % 030/2177-07476. www. sorat-hotels. some vivid colors. Fax: 030/2027-3362. trendy hotel may look a bit sterile to some.hilton. U-Bahn: Zoologischer 124. 10711 Berlin.. 10785 Berlin. See map p. and a bit of “I’m so cool” attitude characterize this interesting new hotel. % 030/254-780. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. 124. See map p.S. clean and comfortable. Hecker’s Hotel $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg The streamlined rooms in this small. 124. but the place is conveniently located and impeccably maintained. % 800-241-3333 in the U. See map p. ߜ Westin Grand Hotel. Hotel Art Nouveau $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg This U-Bahn: The big splurge If you’re looking for top-of-the-line luxury. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse. 10787 Berlin.S. % 030/219-020. 10623 Berlin.esplanade.kudamm101. Fax: 030/327-7440. Fax: 030/ 265-1171. Fax: 030/2005-5555. Mohrenstrasse 30. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz. Fax: 030/777-5555. www. Fax: 030/889-0260. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. 127. 127. www.S. See map p. Schaperstrasse 36. ߜ Ritz-Carlton. % 030/88900.heckershotel. See map p.westin-grand. Lützowufer 15. 10117 or 030/33-77-77. Leibnizstrasse or 030/20270. 10629 Berlin. here are a few more $$$$ suggestions: ߜ Berlin Hilton. 10785 Berlin. 124. 10117 Berlin. See map p. % 030/520-0550. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. % 800-937-8461 in the U. www. Fax: 030/217-7077. Hotel Wilmersdorf $ Wilmersdorf This no-fuss pension is large. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. www. www.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 131 Bayreutherstrasse 42– or 030/20230. 124.

A plate with various cold meats is called a Schlachteplatte (schlock-tuh-plaht-tuh). Dining Out Berlin offers every kind of international cuisine. afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is a time-honored tradition. duck. You can always get an inexpensive meal (soup. For locations of the restaurants in this chapter. sandwiches. places to enjoy a casual meal with a freshly drawn beer. and but rounding out the total bill with an extra amount as a gratuity is standard practice. modern décor. fried potatoes. and lighter dishes) at one of Berlin’s plentiful cafes. Fancier restaurants often serve what’s called neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). original artwork. and pea soup (Erbsensuppe).hotel-pension-muenchenin-berlin.132 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Pension München $ Wilmersdorf You find simple. meatballs (Buletten) with boiled potatoes. Fax: 030/8579-1222. Grabbing a wurst or eating at the stand-up counters of the fast-food snack shops (look for signs that read IMBISS or SCHNELL-IMBISS) is a good way to save time and money. Güntzelstrasse 62. For a few recommended brewpubs. . and wild boar appears seasonally. pickled or roast pork (Schweinefleisch) or pork knuckles (Eisbein) with red cabbage and dumplings. And speaking of cafes: Don’t forget that in Germany. round the total up to 7€ and add another euro or two if the service was good. I list some good cafe choices at the end of this chapter. Typical Berlin dishes include grilled or pickled herring with onions. U-Bahn: Günzelstrasse. which uses the old standbys as a starting point but dolls them up with unusual ingredients and international touches. for example. Scattered all around town are vendors selling Berlin’s classic fast-food snacks: Currywurst (sausage with a glob of “curry” sauce) or fried bratwurst. If the bill is 6. carp and trout often are available. and plenty of other nice touches in this third-floor pension. See map p. but the local culinary tradition is fairly basic and very filling. Restaurant and cafe bills include the service charge and value-added tax (MWST). see Chapter 12. 10717 Berlin. % 030/857-9120.30€. see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining” earlier in this chapter. 124. Game like venison. www.

Open: Tues–Sun 6–11:30 p. and plenty of antiques.–2 a. DC.m. lamb. Chez Martial $$ Charlottenburg FRENCH Top-quality products and good cooking have helped establish Chez Martial as one of Berlin’s most popular French restaurants. Regensburgerstrasse 7.and French-inspired dishes. Fasanenstrasse 81A. AE. with parquet floors. and may include cream of mushroom soup.. The menu changes daily and offers several main courses. No credit cards.m. See map p. Sat–Sun 10 a. poultry. eggs. and a vegetarian Maultaschen (stuffed pasta). For many years. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a.m. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Regensburgerstrasse). Reservations required. The menu changes daily according to what’s freshest in the market. try a bowl of potato soup with sausage or one of the many salads. % 030/218-4282. % 030/313-2625. The restaurant has a outdoor arbor for summertime dining. and outdoor seating is available in good weather. Reservations recommended for dinner. this was a temple of neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine).m.) Bamberger Reiter $$$$ Schöneberg AUSTRIAN Housed in a century-old wine tavern at the corner of Regensburger Strasse and Bamburger Strasse. but the place now serves more Austrian. Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets). and beans). Reservations recommended.m. fish. so be ready to wait (while savoring a bottle of good French wine). U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Richard-Wagner-Strasse and west on Otto-SuhrAllee). or smoked-fish pie. cooked in a broth of fish and shellfish that’s whipped into a foam. including fresh fish.m. Art is tucked beneath the S-Bahn track at Fasanenstrasse. Main courses: 9€–19€ ($11–$23). Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). Every dish is freshly prepared. For lunch. (winter Sat–Sun 12:30 p. V. chicken.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 133 The top restaurants Art $ –$$ Charlottenburg GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A restaurant. Dinner choices include homemade pasta. See map p. flowers. MC. Otto-Suhr-Allee 144. The fish soup. The staff is friendly. V. and cafe rolled into one. and couscous. marinated boiled beef with chive cream. MC. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Hardenberg Strasse and south on Fasanenstrasse).m. 124. beef. duck with cassis sauce. 124. try the pumpernickel mousse.m.–2 a. Open: Tues–Sat 5:30–11:30 p.–2 a. See map p. . Bamburger Reiter is small and rustic. % 030/341-1033. For dessert. roast quail. 124. bar. is wonderful. Come to this gay-friendly place for an English breakfast (bacon. Main courses: 22€–39€ ($27–$49).

smoked Pomeranian goose. smoked ham in cream sauce. AE. pizzas 4. The wonderful wine list includes several wines available by the half-bottle or by the carafe.m. which sits right next to the Spree River.50€ ($6–$12). DC. while another section contains this Italian-influenced restaurant.50€–9. such as broccoli soufflé. Reservations recommended. Other starters include Beetenbartsch. See map p. the one-star Michelin restaurant (in Michelin’s guides. 124. In Hotel Brandenburger Hof. V. AE. Reservations required. 127. % 030/883-2676. And you’ll probably want to order fish. Open: Mon–Sat 5 p. which celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2005. swordfish with fresh tomatoes. and basil.m. Spreeufer 2. % 030/242-5183. Main courses: 35€ ($44). See map p. See map p. V. MC. Open: Mon–Fri 7–11 p. Everything is of the finest quality. offers a truly memorable dining experience. is the Ephraim-Palais. Part of the building is a museum. fixed-price menu 55€–110€ ($69–$137). 124. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 5minute walk southwest on Mühlendamm to Spreeufer. Main courses are something of an adventure: stewed pickled beef with green dumplings and stewed cabbage. Open: Daily 11 a. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). AE. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 2-minute walk south on Eislebener Strasse). La Riva $$ Mitte ITALIAN/SEAFOOD One of the prettiest buildings in the restored Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). Pasta is made fresh daily. The restaurant also has a well-stocked wine cellar. Dishes are classically French and seasonally fresh. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). or fried chicken legs. just south of Alexanderplatz.m. a delicious red-beet soup with beef strips and sour cream. and grilled or baked crayfish. You’ll want a table outside if the weather is fine.134 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Die Quadriga $$$$ Wilmersdorf FRENCH Die Quadriga. 1 star means very good) in the beautiful Brandenburger Hof Hotel. grilled trout. but you need to reserve well in advance because the elegant restaurant seats only 28 diners. because that’s what this place does best. For an appetizer. MC. to midnight. Eislebener Strasse 14. % 030/214-050. . try homemade aspic. Marjellchen $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg EAST PRUSSIAN Old East Prussian recipes prepared by the owner’s grandmother inspired the dishes that are served at this popular restaurant. and the good pizzas are kid-pleasing. You also find vegetarian dishes. Closed July 17–Aug 20. or roast of elk with chanterelle mushrooms. pork kidneys in sweet-andsour cream sauce. to midnight. Reservations recommended. MC. Mommsenstrasse 9. onions. the pedestrian street along the river). DC. V. Choices include salmon with white-wine sauce. and a tasty potato soup with shrimp and bacon. a richly ornamented 1765 mansion. Main courses: 13€–19€ ($16–$23).

Main courses change often. Paris Bar $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg FRENCH/AUSTRIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Since the end of WWII. The dining room has long communal tables. fried noodles. % 030/23828-3464. V. Open: Daily 11:30 a. spare. and a bit of French attitude. and satays (skewers with meat or fish). reasonably priced selection of sushi. fresh fish. saddle of veal with lemon butter.m. Reservations recommended. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse). You can get a good plate of spaghetti or a good . No credit cards. lunch specials 14€ ($17). Wiener Schnitzel. and other specialties. See map p. is nothing fancy. AE. You may find asparagus with hollandaise sauce. plus noodle soups. or you can dine outside in nice weather. sashimi. Reservations recommended. Main courses: 16€–28€ ($20–$35).m. ham. See map p. % 030/313-8052.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Noodle $ –$$ Mitte JAPANESE/ASIAN 135 Located right beside the Spree River. 127. with wooden tables and benches. Restaurant Borchardt $$ –$$$ Mitte FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL You can recognize Borchardt. AE. the restaurant is large. Französische Strasse 47. to midnight. The best bet for lunch is one of the fixed-price specials. across from the giant Berlin cathedral and beneath the Radisson SAS Hotel (of which it’s now a part). directly across from the Gendarmenmarkt. Reservations recommended. this new Japanese-inspired noodle house offers a good. the restaurant has expanded its classic French bistro menu to include more upscale Austrian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. In the past couple of years. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 3-minute walk east on Französische Strasse). Main courses: 7€–13€ ($9–$16). Main courses: 10€–25€ ($13–$31).m. Spreepromenade beside Liebknecht Bridge. gilding. Menu offerings typically include baked tuna fish with Asian vegetables. and elegant. Open: Daily noon to 1 a. 127. the Paris Bar. and new potatoes. and suckling pig. The restaurant’s interior. with marble. 124. See map p. Open: Daily noon to 11 p. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). between Savignyplatz and the Memorial Church. Kantstrasse 152. V. inexpensive lunch. risotto with porcini mushrooms. MC. by its blood-colored awning and red-sandstone facade. MC. Diners mark what they want on the menu (an English menu is available) and hand it to the server. glazed duck breast. or grilled foie gras. has been a Berlin institution. Toto $ –$$ Charlottenburg ITALIAN Toto is a good place to sit outside on a warm Berlin afternoon and have a good. % 030/2038-87110. Inside.

The pizzas are good. V. The lasagna is worth trying. See map p. See map p. Trattoria da Muntagnola $ –$$ Wilmersdorf ITALIAN This popular Italian place is casually rustic. the menu has several items that kids generally like. V. Note: The restaurant can be a bit smoky. See map p. available every Tuesday and Friday (market days). Main courses: 28€–38€ ($35–$47).m. which opened near the Gendarmenmarkt in early 1997. rather narrow room with an arched ceiling. Vau $$$$ Mitte INTERNATIONAL This sleek and unabashedly upscale gastronomic showcase. classic Wiener Schnitzel. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. north on Luther Strasse.m. In this long. which happens to be Berlin’s oldest restaurant. Fresh fish. particularly the Pizza della Mamma with bacon and Parma ham. The menu includes a nice selection of Italian wines and aperitifs. Zur Letzten Instanz $ –$$ Mitte BERLINER The former East Berlin now has several trendy new restaurants. 124. The menu choices are deftly prepared and can be surprisingly unfussy: venison with artichokes and mushrooms. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). and west on Fuggerstrasse). dating from 1525. however. Some of the pastas are made on the premises. AE. with braids of garlic hanging from the beamed ceiling. The casual atmosphere makes Toto a good place to bring kids.m. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Motzstrasse. Fuggerstrasse 27. MC. Vau is a very dress-up kind of place for a superfancy lunch or dinner with impeccable service.m. % 030/211-6642. fixed-price dinner 80€–100€ ($100–$125). and 7–11:30 p. MC. Reservations required. Open: Daily noon to 2 a. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25). The bean soup is filling. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse).136 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany salad. Open: Daily 6 p. too. % 030/312-5449. No credit cards. DC. has earned a Michelin star for its refined cooking. Jägerstrasse 54–55. and very beautiful. Reservations recommended. and various fish choices. 127. to midnight. All kinds of meat dishes and some good seafood (calamari and scampi grilled or cooked with radicchio and rosemary in white-wine sauce) round out the menu. 124. Bleibtreustrasse 55. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte (then a 5minute walk east across Gendarmenmarkt). but I still recommend this place. not remarkable. includes grilled salmon with butter and lemon and grilled crayfish cooked in olive oil. The menu is huge and the cooking is reliable. AE. % 030/202-9730. roast duck breast with herbs and carrots. very modern. The restaurant occupies two floors of a much-restored . everything is very precise. DC.

m. yogurt. . foamy Bier von Fass (beer from the tap). 124. is particularly rich in cafes. For dessert.75–$11). apple. is trendy. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41 (see map p. ߜ Café Aedes. Waisenstrasse 14–16. Zur Nolle $ Mitte GERMAN A hundred years ago. See map p. 127. and braised lamb knuckles with green beans and dumplings.m. The menu is unpretentious and the portions hearty. Try the jacket potatoes with herring. vanilla ice cream. % 030/885-7480. bacon. % 030/208-2655.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 137 baroque building in the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). a cup of coffee and a piece of Kuchen (cake). The cafe is open daily from 10 a. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. so you also can get a beer or a glass of wine. This place is a good one for having an elegant breakfast or light lunch. Vegetarian offerings include vegetable lasagna and roasted broccoli with cheese served on pasta. Sun 11:30 a. The best cafes Berlin is a city filled with cafes. See map p. DC. as a sign of post-reunification nostalgia for a bit of Old Berlin. and whipped cream. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19).m. and additions (fried egg. V. AE. and vegetarian salads. % 030/ 285-8278. AE. to midnight. The place closed in 1968 (GDR years) but reopened in 1993.m. Sun noon to 11 p. onions. The cafes likewise are bars. with choice locations on Unter den Linden near the Brandenburg Gate and on the Ku-Damm at Wittenbergplatz. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 1 a. try the chocolate-covered pancakes filled with blueberries.75–$13). and very hip. between Savignyplatz and the Ku-Damm. Main courses include Old Berlin staples like grilled herring. meatballs. 127. which come with a variety of sauces.m. spices.m. MC.m.. Meals range from 10€ to 16€ ($13–$20). or the roast bratwurst. Bleibtreustrasse (U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). has a pastry and candy shop at street level. V.–6 p. % 030/242-5528. or mushrooms). These are places to go for breakfast. to 7 p. Beneath the arches of Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station (SBahnbogen 30). I recommend the homemade Bulette (meatballs). MC. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse). U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 1-minute walk east along the street below the tracks). to midnight. Meals range from 7€ to 9€ ($8. you find an old-fashioned cafe with a balcony overlooking the busy Ku-Damm. too. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 3-minute walk south on Waisenstrasse). Main courses: 7€–10€ ($8.m. upstairs. soups. or onion fillings. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. and the menu is as traditional and atmospheric as can be. ߜ Café/Bistro Leysieffer. Starbucks is now a presence in Berlin. Kurfürstendamm 218 (see map p. 127. Wash everything down with a cold. convivial. Zur Nolle was a busy working-class beer hall beneath the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station. DC. or a light meal or snack. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). For old time’s sake. The menu usually has dishes like tortellini with cheese sauce.

narrow room with original 1920s wall paintings and modern furniture. % 030/882-5414. U-Bahn: Hohenzollernplatz). % 030/ 281-2095. soups.m.m. and vegetarian curries. ߜ Cafe Wintergarten in Literaturhaus Berlin. The cafe is open daily from 9:30 a. The menu includes pastas. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). Saturday and Sunday from 10 a..m. salads. is one of the best places to see the “new” eastern Berlin in all its up-to-the-nanosecond trendiness. .138 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ߜ Café Silberstein.m. The cafe is housed in a long. On the menu. tall. Fasanenstrasse 23 (see map p. to 5 a.m. miso soup with noodles. 124. to 4 a.75). salads. you find sushi. 127. The cafe is open Monday to Friday from 10 a. Oranienburger Strasse 27 (see map p. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($9– $22). A meal costs around 7€ ($8. and an all-day breakfast. to 1 a.m. occupies two modern-looking rooms in a 19th-century villa 1 block south of the Ku-Damm.

For locations. see the “TiergartenArea Attractions. . although you also find picturesque parks and lakes. except where otherwise indicated. famous avenues and riverside promenades.” and “Berlin-Mitte Attractions” maps in this chapter. and the Tuesday after Easter. and 31. They’re also closed January 1. and historic architecture. kids younger than 6 generally get in for free. and at some museums children under 16 are admitted free of charge.Chapter 12 Exploring Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Berlin’s top attractions ᮣ Choosing a tour that’s right for you ᮣ Finding the hot shopping spots ᮣ Discovering Berlin’s performing arts and nightlife ᮣ Taking a side trip to Potsdam and the palace of Sanssouci erlin overflows with sightseeing options and diversions. Note: The ages for children’s tickets always are 6 to 14. The places described in this section are my roster of the most important Berlin attractions. thanks to rebuilding in Potsdamer Platz and portions of eastern Berlin. this city has more new buildings than any other city in the world. Remember: Nearly all Berlin museums are closed Mondays throughout the year. B Sightseeing in Berlin Where do you begin? Do you want to spend all your time in Berlin’s fabulous museums? Saunter and shop your way down famous avenues like Unter den Linden or the Ku-Damm? See historic buildings like the Reichstag? Check out the “new” Berlin at Potsdamer Platz? You have to make some decisions because the possibilities for sightseeing in Berlin are almost endless.” “Charlottenburg Attractions. 25. Plus. December 24. The city is particularly rich in museums.

spk-berlin. ߜ Museum Island (Museumsinsel): Museum Island in eastern Berlin has four of the city’s oldest museums. A day ticket to visit all four museums on Museum Island costs 10€ ($13). and the Reichstag (House of Parliament).50). On the eastern edge of the Tiergarten. the Alte Nationalgalerie (with 19th-century art).140 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Touring by neighborhood You can save a lot of time by clustering your museum and other sightseeing visits geographically. ߜ Tiergarten: In or near the Tiergarten. the Pergamon Museum (with the giant Pergamon altar and Middle Eastern antiquities). ߜ Dahlem: This leafy suburb. They include the Altes Museum. a grand boulevard. the Brandenburg Gate. where you find the Filmmuseum Berlin. the adjoining Kunstgewerbe (with applied and decorative arts). Saving money with a museum pass SchauLUST Museen Berlin is a money-saving three-day museum pass that gets you into 70 top Berlin museums and collections for 15€ ($19) adults. is home to the fascinating Ethnologisches Museum with rich collections of North American Indian art and artifacts and several other museums concerned with world cultures. 7. Unter den Linden. close to Potsdamer Platz. the newest area of Berlin. home to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery).50€ ($9. which you can visit before or after a guided palace tour.” You can purchase the SchauLUST museum pass at any of the BERLIN infostores (for addresses. the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (with contemporary art). Gendarmenmarkt. A day ticket to visit all the Dahlem museums costs 6€ ($7. you find the BauhausArchiv. smb. Charlottenburg Palace also has museums. and histosric buildings in the palace gardens. a restored historic The pass gains you admittance into nearly all the museums described in the next section. is a group of buildings known as the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). which now contains the Ägyptisches Museum (with the famous bust of Nefertiti). and the Neue Nationalgalerie (with 20thcentury art). “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z. The main museum areas in Berlin are as follows: ߜ Charlottenburg: Across from Charlottenburg Palace are two museums worth visiting: the Museum Berggruen (with Picassos).50) seniors and children. and the Bröhan Museum (with Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture). All the state museums operated by Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (www. Berlin’s great city park. The Kulturforum area is within walking distance of Potsdamer Platz. a baroque square. see Chapter 11). In this same vicinity. just a few S-Bahn stops from central Berlin. including the museums on Museum Island in . you can also visit the new DDR Museum Berlin. and the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). the new Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). and the newly reopened Bode Museum (German and Italian sculpture and the Museum of Byzantine Art).

but the fragments that remain are grimly essential pieces of Berlin’s tumultuous history. 4€ ($5) children.) Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) Museum Island. including sculpture. A free audio tour in English is available. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. Other collection highlights include the small.m. Berlin Wall Mitte The wall that separated Berlin and Germany from 1961 to 1989 is no more. dating from around 1340 B. in the Kulturforum.–6 p.m. Am Lustgarten. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island).museum. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island).m. One of the highlights here is the unique portraits of Caesar and Cleopatra. sits behind the Altes Museum on Museumsinsel. (Thurs until 10 p. Monet. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Altes Museum (Egyptian Museum and Collection of Classical Antiquities) Museum Island. Children 16 and under are always admitted free of charge. Open: Daily 10 a. Bodestrasse 1–3.m. . and objects of gold and silver. Give yourself at least an hour just for the highlights of this rich collection.m.smb. Manet. pottery. See map p.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 141 Berlin Mitte. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. % 030/2090-5801. most of the concrete barrier that divided this city into two political entities had been razed. which looks like a Corinthian temple and contains a collection of 19th-century painting and sculpture.–6 p. you’ll find enough here to make you linger for at least an hour. and at Charlottenburg Palace.). Berlin-Mitte’s famous collection of Egyptian antiquities was housed in western Berlin until 2005. Museumsinsel. Only two portions of the wall (Mauer in German. (Thurs until 10 p.m. By 1990. The greatest treasure of the Egyptian Museum is the famous and fabulous bust of Queen Nefertiti.m. % 030/266-3660. is found on the first floor.C. 147. Mitte Museum Island. expressive head of Queen Tiy and the world-famous head of a priest in green stone. You’ll need at least two hours to cover the basics. pronounced mao-er) are left. A superlative collection of Greek. See map p. the free audio tour will help you navigate. and Etruscan classical antiquities. Mitte The Alte Nationalgalerie. If you’re interested in Egyptian antiquities. Renoir. are open free to the public on Thursdays. www. including works by van Gogh. Roman. free Thurs 2–6 p. free Thurs 6–10 p. and Cézanne. when it was moved to the second floor of the beautifully restored Altes Museum on Museum Island in eastern Berlin.m. 147. 4€ ($5) children. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. four hours before closing.

you saw this historic monument. a fourhorse copper chariot drawn by the goddess Victoria. The mirrorlike stainless steel surfaces of the memorial have slits through which visitors can bronze) from the Gothic to the neoclassical periods. Mitte Closed in 1999 for a complete refurbishment. and Italian sculpture (marble. 4€ ($5) children.m. visitors still gather to meditate and reflect on Germany’s past. give yourself at least a full hour just to graze the highlights. hundreds of thousands of East Germans walked freely through the gate into West Berlin for the first time since 1961.–6 p.).” This place is the only one in Berlin where you still can see a complete border area. and a documentation center with photographs and a history of the wall. When the wall came down.m.142 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The East Side Gallery is a half-mile-long section on Mühlenstrasse on the banks of the Spree River in the former East Berlin. saw the gate used as a symbolic gathering place. 147. the gate is crowned by the famous Quadriga.smb. Dutch. the newly modernized BodeMuseum anchoring the north end of Museum Island reopened its doors in October 2006. . one of Berlin’s most potent symbols. known as the Gedenkstätte und Dokumentationszentrum Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial and Documentation Center) lies between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. The revolutionary events of 1848 and 1918. 147.m. The museum also contains galleries with late-antique and Byzantine works and a major coin collection. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. A neoclassical triumphal arch completed in 1791. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer: between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. The other remaining section of the wall. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt (then a 5-minute walk west along the S-Bahn tracks to the Monbijou bridge which leads to the museum). % 030/266-3666. The free audio guide will help you navigate your way through the galleries. wood. See map p.–6 p. French.). In the Room of Silence (open daily 11 a. See map p. Here you’ll find a rich collection of German. free Thurs 2–6 p. built into one of the guardhouses. (Thurs until 10 p. The memorial consists of two walls that include fragments of the original wall (much of which was bulldozed away or carried off by souvenir hunters). A plaque reads: “In memory of the division of the city from 13 August 1961 to 9 November 1989. An international group of artists painted murals on this section in 1990. in every news clip. Museum of Byzantine Art) Museumsinsel. U-/S-Bahn: Warschauer Strasse.m. a chapel of reconciliation.m. Monbijoubrücke.m. www. Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) Mitte If you watched the televised fall of the Communist German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1989. such as those in 1989. Bode-Museum (Sculpture Collection. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse. East Side Gallery: Mühlenstrasse along the Spree River.

SAVIGNY- Kantstr. Kantstr S U POTSDAMER PLATZ MarleneDietrichPlatz a em nn S ZOOLOGISCHER U GARTEN 13 str . tr. nst r. rS Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin r m dam 5 Tau i en nt zi rste U KURFÜRSTENü f en r u DAMM str 3 K . rge a me 1 2 tens tr. te steg s Bellevue brücke t o -F U ona Englischer n Brandenburger h o Pariser J HANSA. uer Le S p r e e ss in g- Paulstr .TURMSTR. Str h il Sc Uhlandstr. tr. er Pot sda m Sony PotsCenter damer Leipziger 12 14Platz Platz Ebertstr.Gegenwart 17 CHARDAGNERNERATZ Z Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche 5 Ot toKäthe-Kollwitz-Museum 4 Suh rKunstgewerbemuseum 9 All ee Kurfürstendamm (Ku-Damm) 3 Neue Nationalgalerie 11 DEUTSCHE str. fürs lstr Niebuhr- S Kur . hö S S Sc ANHALTER Kleis tstr. Juni ue 8 Strasse de Gr alle 17. Nü rn PLATZ Post office str. r 9 10 Leibnizstr.25 km brücke str. Kleiner Tiergarten Alt-Mo abit 0 1/4 mi N Luisenstr. g Stein. Do str ve. 0 Gotzkowsky0. Ca Str. PLATZ ew Platz des re Platz p 18. be St Tiergartenstr.str. 17 s Strasse de Grosser Be llev TIERGARTEN S Stern s S Garten Tor 15 eg tr. U S U Bauhaus–Archiv Museum hauser Str. platz üle Str. Strasse des Ba st r. steg BELLEVUE St Kongresshalle/ brücke Lüne b u r g e r S e e Haus der Kulturen Reichstag p r der Welt HANSAS Platz der 16 MarschallRepublik brücke VIERTEL Schloss WullenweberLutherD u l l e r s A l l ee Al Scheidemannstr. Lützowtzowplatz Lütz ows MENDELSSOHNBARTHOLDY-PARK U r ge Einemst da be 143 BAHNHOF Tiergarten-Area Attractions r be ne tr. n Str es i ZOOLOGISCHER Harden. U KURFÜRSTENSTR STR. Joachims- ten str. Marchbrücke L ch str . OPER Bismarck U Potsdamer Platz 14 U ERNSTReichstag 16 REUTER. März M rz S ni Ju . e See Len né tungsEntlas TECHNISCHE ane Fas Krumme rstr. tzenburger 4 U AUGSBURGER STR. NOLLENDORF- GLEIS- U tr. ENAUERADENAUERATZ PLATZ Lie Str. fürs . Kur r. Topographie des Terrors Pestal ozzistr. a llee Hofjägera w nd öferKlingelh str. Garten 1 Brandenburger Tor 15 Filmmuseum Berlin 12 Siemens.S S-Bahn str. ommsen. eh r ka e rd Ha Str. 13 Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium 6. -derVon dt -Str. U U-Bahn i Information amm i Church rstend Kurfü WITTENBERGr PLATZ de i An r a n KaDeWe U U Leibniz. str llerSchi The Story of Berlin 2 PLATZ Tiergarten 8 Goethe. S nst 17 lide HAUPTBAHNHOF nva I LEHRTER BAHNHOF LessingWashingtonAltTIERGARTEN brücke Moabit platz Kronprinzenbrücke Moabiter Le Moltkeve Brücke tzo brücke ws Gericketr. Schlüterstr.str. Juni os se T I E R G A R T E N e rS ter na Neuer lle str. Po ts U UHLANDSTR. Budap e ster . S tro m st r . na l UNIVERSITÄT r. 11 Hey R 7 owufer eic h p ietschufer Lütz berger Ufe Schöne r taler Str. str. HansaTo Berlin-Mitte r.GARTEN bergplatz 6 für Gestaltung 7 Botanischer linburger Str.Grünewald steg Röntgen-10 Gemäldegalerie brücke Hamburger Bahnhof DoveMuseum für brücke ARD.

built for the influx of French Huguenots (Protestants) who settled in Berlin after being forced to flee Catholic France in 1685. 147. The centerpiece of the square is Friedrich Schinkel’s beautiful neoclassical Schauspielhaus.m. Admission: Free. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. open Tues–Sun noon to 5 p.144 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p.m. See map p. Pariser Platz. it’s hard to imagine that by the end of World War II (WWII). Tiergarten The Gemäldegalerie houses Berlin’s greatest collection of European painting. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you see the gate to the west). The gallery contains one of the world’s largest collections of Rembrandts. John and Bronzino’s Portrait of Ugolino Martelli. On the north side of the square is the Französicher Dom (French Cathedral.. Several Italian masterpieces are on display. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Taubenstrasse).m.).m.). when East Berlin finally began its reconstruction. (Thurs until 10 p. open Tues–Sun 10 a. free Thurs 6–10 p. 143. See map p. Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) Kulturforum.m. % 030/22730431. Surrounding the square is a bevy of chic new restaurants. completed in 1821. 143. % 030/2090-5555. for concert information. including Raphael’s Virgin and Child with the Infant St. .” later in this chapter).). see “Raising the curtain on performing arts and music.m. Facing this church like a mirror image on the south side is the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral. which had its guardhouse and stables here from 1738 to 1782. half-hour organ concerts Tues and Fri at 12:30 p. This is a huge collection and to see it in any depth you should give yourself at least two hours. Gendarmenmarkt Mitte Twin churches inspired by Rome’s Piazza del Popolo flank this monumentally graceful baroque square — one of the most beautiful architectural ensembles in Berlin. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Looking at the square today. % 030/802-8146.–6 p. with an emphasis on medieval German and Dutch art and 16th-century Italian and 17th-century Dutch painting. the Gendarmenmarkt had been reduced to a pile of smoldering rubble and remained in ruins until 1977. The square was named for the Gens d’Armes regiment.m. Matthäiskirchplatz. or Concert House. 4€ ($5) children.m. or theater (now also called the Konzerthaus. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse and Margaretenstrasse).–6 p.

0 0 0. U S-Bahn U-Bahn N CHARLOTTENBURG LiseM e itner. 100 Christ- str. bb Thrasoltzeile Str. 100 isse ll . Rieh l s tr . str. do rff str . rsdorfe W i n dscheids t r.Friedric en leb itz atz W pl Wilme Fritschestr.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 145 Charlottenburg Attractions s t r. All ee me ye rNithack- str . RICHARDGierkeWAGNERstr. Post office S U Neue Kantstr. U KAISERDAMM Schiller- str. s tr Horstweg un Horstweg SophieCharlottePlatz U SOPHIECHARLOTTEPLATZ Kaiserdamm W Bismarckstr. h i e -C harl o Kam ntte Hersc Belvedere mine .Str. Spielhagens tr. Schlossbrücke Charlottenburg M SCHLOSSGARTEN ier Caprivier U brücke f er Wintersteinstr. platz Ot toBrauhofstr. Wulfsheinstr. F r i e dr i c h - Richard- Gierke- Danckelman n- dorfer r. Schustehrus- Seeling- str. els str. r Str. Wagner. str dt LIETZENSEEPARK e n s e ze et en Sua rezs tr. W W un Li MESSE NORD/ S ICC . r Str he- Osna Mind brück er Str MIERENDORFFPLATZ U . Kaiser. str.25 km 1/4 mi Kantstr. e Sp re Schloss- Weg Sömmeringstr. str. WILMERSDORFER STR. . itz Goethepark leb Pestalozzi- str. h. Su hrStallstr. Nehringstr.B e re Sp rüc ke Olbers- . Kaise r- str.str. Ste san ifendst r. Str R ud str. St s rp S u f ertstr. Beh SchustehrusPark Haubachstr.St Fritschestr . Str. Karpfenteich ener Str. Neue Christstr.W Bra Te g e l e r Bröhan Museum 3 Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit 2 Schloss Charlottenburg 1 CHARLOTTENBURG Schinkel Pavilion 1 mm Spandauer Da 2 Klausener3 platz WESTEND Ne r. Wilmers- Sophie-C harlotte n-Str. Mierendorffplatz Sop Keple rstr. Zille. Mausoleum Taur ogge ner S en tr. o lf.Str. BISMARCKSTRASSE dt - U str .Eosanders tr. Loh- tr. platz PLATZ U aim. He Knobelsdorff str. Gardes-du-Co Luisen. helst r.

Items on display include ceremonial objects. 147.25) adults. I recommend that you give yourself at least two hours.75) students and children. and Roy Lichtenstein together with changing exhibitions.–8 p.juedisches-museumberlin.). free Thurs 2–6 p. % 030/2599-3300. Open: Tues–Fri and Sun 10 a. The modern art on display dates from the second half of the 20th century and includes everything from Andy Warhol’s now legendary Mao to an audiovisual Joseph Beuys archive. You also find a major collection of works by Cy Twombly.m. You probably won’t want to spend more than a few minutes inside. the oldest train station in Berlin. (Mon until 10 p.m. works of Jewish artists. Designed by American architect Daniel Libeskind. See map p. documents. 143. Sat 11 a. Closed on Jewish holy days. and the ruined shell was preserved as a symbol of the ravages of war. See map p. Lindenstrasse 9–14. Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) Kreuzberg One of the most talked-about museums in Europe is located in Kreuzberg.m. Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Emperor William Memorial Church) Charlottenburg One of Berlin’s most famous landmarks. You can see everything in about an hour. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk northeast on Invalidenstrasse). Robert Rauschenberg. Free organ concerts take place there every Saturday year-round at 6 p. and memorabilia. including the high roof designed for steam engines. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor (then a 5-minute walk east on Gitschiner Strasse and north on Lindenstrasse). % 030/397-83439. just south of Berlin-Mitte. 4€ ($5) children. This museum has plenty to see.–6 p.m..m. portraits of prominent Jewish figures.m.m. 2 children). Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. photos. historical objects. the church later was blasted by a bomb in the building is shaped like a stretched-out Star of David and houses Europe’s largest Jewish museum. 10€ ($13) family ticket (2 adults. www.50€ ($3. Admission: 5€ ($6. Built to commemorate the 1871 establishment of the German Empire. Invalidenstrasse 50–51.m. . The small modern church beside the Gedächtniskirche is an octagonal hall designed by Egon Eierman in 1961. the Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church) is a ponderous neo-Romanesque structure from the late 19th century.–8 p.146 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) Tiergarten This showcase of contemporary art opened in 1996 in the 19th-century Hamburger Bahnhof. 2. The building still retains traces of its former use. Open: Daily 10 a.m. You follow a chronological pathway occasionally interrupted by deliberately disorienting memorial spaces.

str.U . MUSEUMSAlle e th KLOSTERSTR. . lev SPITTELMARKT Leipziger ues Jak o b HEINRICH. Checkpoint Charlie 3 17.str. er-S Wilh ak ob str . r b Ale t 0 0. - kn e ch t-S tr. brücke st n e . Platz K S S-Bahn r Str. Sp an da r ue r. t s HEINE-STR. ied e TaubenUnter den Linden 1 erw urstr Rungestr. r t s W l l a U U Bel Voss. r. Str. r. MOHRENSTR. Moh MÄRKISCHES str. Str elms e str. N e u e str. it (Gedenkstätte Kronprinzenpark platz “Berliner Mauer”) 15 r. UNTER DEN a 6 R INSEL Gendarmenmarkt 2 LINDEN Brandenburger U NIKOLAIden Lin Jüdisches Museum 4 SchlossS 1 n Tor de BebelVIERTEL Unter St platz Pariser Platz des platz Mauermuseum Haus am r s a de la u e Platz Strasse 18. an st r . -KolmarGertrud Str. tr. rst ue Ma xelSp ring Charlottens A LEHRTER BAHNHOF Mü Alte Nationalgalerie 12 0 1/4 mi nzs 16 15 S tr. Museum of Museum n . . Berlin Wall . ri r ALEXANDERMa BerlinerMoltkeDom 8 St S PLATZ 14 brücke (Sculpture Bode Museum Pergamon ht U ec Fernsehturm m Collection.U str. TIERGARTEN U 2 Be Memorial HAUSVOGTEIllev GendarmenPergamon Museum 13 (under FRANZÖSISCHE s l PLATZ ue l a construction) markt STR. r. i atha 7 S c h if f r e Museum 7 de GeorgenPaul-Löbe-Allee STRASSE rleDDR Bo R . ns tr. u u r ba e st FRIEDRICH. sst Mittel9 Alexanderplatz 16 au Scheidemannstr.HAUPTBAHNHOF r. PLATZ o e m a d m s t U Po ma S . Friedrichstr. r tr. U STADTMITTE KronenMUSEUM L e n né . p r e Französische 5 e Holocaust Nikolaiviertel 6 Jägerstr. Fernsehturm am der Welt r. MarleneZimmerstr. AlexanderR M Berlin Wall oab platz S l. M S (Museum Island) 10 Str. erstr. str. Ora Altes Museum 11 nie N n b u r g e r S tr . nd U U-Bahn J Schützenstr an Potsdamer te ten Al Platz i Information Zimmerstr. Mau t r. Jerusalemer Ge r tr au d elms Wilh en str . Glinka- da mm Charlotten- Gr un er Universitätsst Friedrichstr. str. Rathaus str.str hard er p in K Monbijoue . n St Leipziger Post Office e Leipziger POTSDAMER Krausenstr. 3 4 rstr. St M üh e eit Br l en Ebertstr. Mark- Str. m se tr. tstr rech Alb Tuch olsk yst St fer Kup Oberwall- r. März r S t r. tr. gra b en str. . Juni er i r s ch Museumsinsel W erd e arkt Behrenstr. DietrichNiederkirchne Platz Kochstr. S p Ka Deutsches Historisches 11 str Haus der 10 8 Platz der Museum 9 Reichstag Kulturen LustRepublik garten Dorotheenstr. W Schwules Museum 12 U N alle K str. 147 Berlin-Mitte Attractions er KOCHSTR.25 km s Dirck HACKESCHER xa Lie s en (East Side Gallery) 5 tnd MARKT Washington. all str U ren. Luisen- str. str. grafen- tr. Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Friedrichstr. m k str r da e S 13 12 ieb Byzantine Art) 14 s e 17 L .

www.m.m. false passports. Friedrichstrasse 43–45. Of special interest are the paintings by early. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse (then a 5-minute walk north on Friedrichstrasse). 147. Admission: 9. Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Wall Museum at Checkpoint Charlie) Kreuzberg If you’re interested in the history of the Berlin Wall. Kurfürstendamm at Breitscheidplatz. and attempted escape devices (chairlifts. Dalí. From the start of the 20th century until WWII.m. lively. 143. designed in 1968 by famed German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. the most frequently used traffic crossing into East Berlin. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk south on Budapester Strasse). Open: Memorial church Mon–Sat 10 a. 143.m. and two bitter and brilliant oils by . U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (you are on the Ku-Damm when you exit the station). See map on p. and Frank Stella.50€ ($12) adults. including works by de Chirico. Today’s busy commercial artery began as nothing more than a humble log road.mauermuseum. The museum. Max Ernst. hot-air balloons. Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery) Kulturforum. filled with legendary cafes and renowned for its nightlife.. Kurfürstendamm Tiergarten The famous boulevard known as the Ku-Damm is western Berlin’s answer to Paris’s Champs-Elysées. For years the Ku-Damm hogged all the city’s glamour because dreary East Berlin had nothing to rival it.–4 p. this small museum in Kreuzberg is well worth an hour of your time. Miró. Admission: Free. Tiergarten The only “old” structure in the aggressively modern Kulturforum complex is the New National Gallery. 4.75€ ($6) children and students. and Otto Dix. newspaper clippings. See map p. sit. % 030/253-7250.–10 p. Located near what once was Checkpoint Charlie. Open: Daily 9 a. the Ku-Damm was the most brilliant. an enormous expanse of glass windows and simple symmetry.m. Mark Rothko. the museum documents the wall’s history from its construction in 1961 to its fall in 1989 to 1990. It’s currently going through a rebuilding phase to spruce itself up and lure people back from eastern Berlin. new church daily 9 a. built in 1542 for the Prince-Electors (Kurfürsten) to reach their hunting lodge in the Grünewald more easily. % 030/218-5023. contains a small but impressive collection of international 20th-century painting and sculpture. even a minisub) used by East Germans may give you a new take on the meaning of mid-20th-century German artists Max Beckmann.m. The street still is a wonderful place to shop. and elegant street in this part of Berlin. and people-watch.–7 p. The photographs. com. stroll.148 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map on p.

and Assyria. stroll along the Potsdamer Platz Arcades. the Madison City Suites. 143.m.). The gallery also is used for special traveling exhibitions. Potsdamer Platz Tiergarten Before WWII.–6 p. upscale housing. the renowned Pergamon Museum is the one must-see (along with the bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti in the Altes Museum). which has two movie theaters and a viewing area from which you can look out over the Philharmonie. Potsdamer Platz is a brand-new. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (you are on Potsdamer Platz as you exit the station). (Thurs until 10 p.C. 4€ ($5) students and children. supermodern showcase of corporate glitz. The Near East Museum in the museum’s south wing contains one of the largest collections anywhere of antiquities from ancient Babylonia. dating from 180 to 160 B. See map p.m. and entertainment. and the Tiergarten. one of the most popular in the city. After reunification. % 030/266-2951. See map p.D. free admission Thurs 6–10 p. Today.m. will undergo an internal and external face-lift (costing 351€ million /$ 420 million) starting in 2011. Persia. 165). and cafes invite you to shop and relax.). the altar was discovered in 1876 in western Turkey. % 030/2090-5577. considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and still holding its own today. Another showpiece is the ornate two-storied Market Gate of Miletus. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. One of the most visited attractions is the Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz (% 030/2094-5400). Around newly created Marlene-Dietrich-Platz. And what you must see is the Pergamon Altar. Sat–Sun 11 a.m. In 1961.m. Mitte Of all the museums on Museum Island. To experience the area. and the Cine-Max cinema center. free Thurs 6–10 p. 143. 4€ ($5) children and students. When you see its grim facade. the Grand Hyatt Hotel. . you find the Stella Musical Theater. restaurants.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. (Thurs until 10 p.m.m. a Roman building facade from the time of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (around A. Potsdamer Platz was the busiest spot in Berlin. you’ll understand why.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 149 George Grosz that capture the decadent despair of the Weimar years in the 1920s.–6 p.. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to the Museum Island).–6 p. The entire museum. the square was cut off from the western sector by the wall and became an ugly strip of mined no-man’s-land. where 140 stores. corporations like Sony and Mercedes-Benz rushed in and bought the entire area.m. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. Part of the enormous Temple of Zeus and Athena.m. Pergamon Museum Museum Island. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk south on Potsdamer Strasse). government offices. Potsdamer Strasse 50. the Kulturforum. See map on p. Am Kupfergraben. the Berlin Casino. 147.).

The domed neo-baroque Bode Museum at the far northern end of the island and the Altes Museum with its Egyptian and classical antiquities collections reopened in 2005 and 2006 respectively after extensive interior modernization. Open: Dome daily 8 a. you may have to stand in line for up to three hours before getting in. Reichstag (House of Parliament) Tiergarten The Reichstag is the seat of the reunified German Parliament. otherwise.m. and Cultural Organization. so I don’t include it in this guide. Platz der Republik. The dome also has an outdoor observation area and a rooftop restaurant with so-so food (reservations % 030/226-2990). After a security check. % 030/2273-2131. who. The massive Pergamon Museum. The Neues Museum is closed until 2008. used the incident as an opportunity to seize power.150 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Museumsinsel (Museum Island): Art by decree Five museums on an island in the River Spree form the oldest museum complex in Berlin and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. a new glass dome designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster crowns the building. were constructed after Frederick William III issued a decree stipulating that the privately owned artwork of the royal family needed to be made accessible to the public. but the other four museums are definitely worth exploring. gets a much-needed makeover. will close in 2011 for several years while it. 143. I recommend that you arrive as early as possible. Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) Charlottenburg The oldest section of this lovely. After reunification. The museums were the main attractions in old East Berlin. some dating back to the early and mid 19th century.m. yellow baroque palace was built in 1695 as a breezy summer abode for Sophie Charlotte. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the first to reopen its doors after undergoing post-reunification refurbishment. Allied bombs destroyed part of the Reichstag in WWII. Built in a pompous high-Renaissance style between 1884 and 1894. you take an elevator up to the dome. too. UNESCO is the United Nations Educational. blaming the fire on the Communists. the street that follows the river). Much of the palace was destroyed in WWII and painstakingly reconstructed. Its present form dates from 1790. the wife of Friedrich I. Admission: Free. a complicated process of restoring the buildings and reuniting various collections from the East and West began. one of the most popular museums in Berlin. the building was partially destroyed by a fire in 1933 that probably was set by the Nazis. . where a sweeping vista of Berlin opens out before you.–10 p. The buildings. Scientific. Today. See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west along the Reichstagufer.

25) children. trees were replanted and walkways. To see the palace and museums. At the far end of the Schlossgarten. you can.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 151 You can see the palace only on a tour. mile) and is the most popular green space in central Berlin. Admission: Combination ticket for historical rooms. % 0331/969-4202. km (1 sq. You must pay a separate admission of 6€ ($ 7. The park was devastated during and just after WWII.). “animal garden”) covers almost 2. In the Schlossgarten. you find the charming Schinkel Pavilion. the eye-catching porcelain room. is the Belvedere. which is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. and the royal chapel. when desperate citizens chopped down the trees for fuel. displays the famous Schliemann collection of antiquities from Troy. This former royal teahouse contains exquisite Berlin porcelain. ponds. (last tour at 5 p. give yourself a couple of hours. If you just want to stroll. Tiergarten Tiergarten The popular Tiergarten (literally. and Biedermeier periods. www. the Tiergarten park is a great place to stroll and relax. close to the Spree River. The Museum für Vor. and to take that tour you have to don huge felt slippers (so you’re effectively polishing the wood floors as you slide around after the guide). The Berlin Zoo. Romantic. and pretty Schloss (Palace) Bellevue (S-Bahn: Bellevue). a golden goddess of victory perched high atop a red-granite pedestal.) With its lawns. is the most famous of the Tiergarten’s . the leading architect of the day. Open: Palace and museums Tues–Sun 9 a. one of the great landscape architects of the early 19th century. with its fine collection of paintings from the neoclassical.5 sq. the living quarters of Friedrich I and Sophie you need at least four to five hours. It was originally was laid out by Peter Josef Lenné. the residence of Germany’s president. See map p. on your own.m.m. a residential area where architects were invited to build projects in the 1950s. The Siegessäule (Victory Column).75) children for this museum. to 5 p. in 1825. which is described in the “Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium)” listing later in this chapter. in the Langhansbau wing. an Italianate summer house designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. and flower beds restored to their original patterns. U-Bahn: SophieCharlotte-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Schlossstrasse). Beginning in 1955. The tour is given only in German (you can buy an English-language guidebook at the ticket counter) and includes the historical rooms. occupies the park’s southwestern corner. and more than 23km (14 miles) of meandering paths.–5 p. Galerie der Romantik. you find the Hansaviertel (Hansa Quarter). canals. 145. much of it from the 1700s. With a combined ticket.50) adults. and Schlossgarten 8€ ($10) adults.m. additionally visit the Galerie der Romantik.m. Luisenplatz. leafy trees. as a private park for the electors of Prussia. 5€ ($6. In the northwestern corner. and the beautifully landscaped Schlossgarten (palace gardens).und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History). (Tiergarten also is the name of Berlin’s smallest neighborhood.m. 3€ ($ 3.

000 animals live here. to 6:30 p. www. The giant Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral. on the east by Berlin-Mitte. is open daily from 9:30 a. The column’s 48m-high (157-ft. Following reunification. and other creatures. Bounded on the west by Bahnhof Zoo and the Europa Center. The aquarium is home to more than 9.m.152 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany many monuments.” came from the linden trees that were originally planted along the street. Berlin’s largest baroque building and the first (1706) major building to be constructed on Unter den Linden. free for children younger than 12. the Brandenburg Gate. The hippoquarium is a new attraction.) observation platform. and Potsdamer Platz. many of them in open habitats. 147. Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s most famous and historically significant streets.m. the oldest of Berlin’s three opera houses. The most popular residents are the giant pandas. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or Hansaplatz.–8 p. The Zeughaus (Armory). is also located here. Lustgarten. Bus: 100. open daily 9 a. with several monumental buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium) Tiergarten Founded in 1844. www. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (the entrance is a 3-minute walk east on Budapester Strasse). with more than 550 species of birds. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you are on the avenue as you exit the station). The name.aquarium-berlin.) squats at the end of Unter den Linden. amphibians. reptiles. The zoo also has a modern aviary.zoo-berlin. 143. insects. Admission is 1€ ($ 1. S-Bahn: Tiergarten or Bellevue. Unter den Linden Mitte Laid out in 1647 and extending a bit more than a kilometer (3⁄4 mile) east from the Brandenburg Gate. Hardenbergplatz 8. % 030/25-40-10. Admission: Zoo 11€ ($14) adults. More than 13. a wide boulevard that bisects the Tiergarten and is the western extension of Unter den Linden.25) for adults. The column stands in the center of the Strasse des 17 Juni. See map p. 5.50€ .de. the historically significant buildings along Unter den Linden were spruced up and the avenue filled up with souvenir shops. Germany’s oldest and Europe’s largest zoo occupies almost the entire southwest corner of the Tiergarten. See map p. 143. With kids in tow you can easily spend half a day in the zoo and aquarium. and cafes. luxury car showrooms. which means “under the lindens. reached by climbing up a 290-step spiral staircase. See map p.m. Friedrich Schinkel’s 1818 Neue Wache (New Watch) served as headquarters for the King’s Guard and now contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Tomb of the Unknown Resistance fish. houses the Deutsches Museum (see the later section on “Finding more cool things to see and do”). The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. This boulevard is the oldest and royalest in central Berlin.

completed in 1979. 8. and technology. including a garden for blind visitors and another with water plants.m. A must-see is the Suite Emile-Jacques Ruhlman. to 5 p. and crafts. U-Bahn: Dahlem–Dorf).botanischer-gartenberlin. glass. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.m.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 153 ($7) Here are additional places that you may find of interest. is one of the last works of the great Berlin-born architect Walter Gropius.25). S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz).m. combined ticket 17€ ($25)–5 p. 4€ ($5) children younger than 12. Give yourself an hour or so to stroll through the garden itself. which sought to combine art. brohan-museum.m. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). Admission is 7€ ($9) adults. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1 (% 030/847-123-731. painting. www.m. houses one of the world’s finest collections of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and Art Deco furniture. Königin-LuiseStrasse 6–8 (% 030/8385-0100. A small botanical museum (open daily 10 a. all from 1889 to 1939. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). is dedicated to the Bauhaus school. Oct 15–Mar 14 daily 9 a.–6:30 p. to 6 p.50€ ($) children. ߜ The DDR Museum. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 at Weimar. located near the Dahlem Museums on the outskirts of Berlin. Klingelhöferstrasse 14 (% 030/254-0020. ߜ The Bröhan Museum. and finally settled in Berlin. The museum. gardens and many other places to visit — you won’t be lacking of things to do.m. sculpture.m. silverware. Berlin newest new museum. of more interest to dedicated gardeners than the general public. You need at least an hour to peruse the exhibits. aquarium year-round daily 9 a. near the Tiergarten. free for children 12 and younger. ߜ The Bauhaus–Archiv Museum für Gestaltung (BauhausDesign Museum). 2.m. hands-on experience of everyday life in the Communist DDR (Deutsche Democratische Republik. The garden is open daily from 9 a. is open Wednesday through Monday from 10 a.m.–6 p.). Schlossstrasse 1A (% 030/3269-0600. moved to Dessau.25) for adults. to dusk. You also find an extensive arboretum and several special collections. de. aquarium 11€ ($14) adults. www.50€ ($3) for children. The museum. before the Nazis forced the school to disband in 1933. The museum is small enough that you can see everything in an hour. Finding more cool things to see and do Berlin is full of museums. www.. .bauhaus. offers an interesting. a completely decorated set of rooms from a luxurious private residence of the 1920s and 1930s. design. 5. free on first Wednesday of every month. is also on the premises. Open: Zoo Mar 15–Oct 14 daily 9 a.m.–6 p. www. Admission is 5€ ($6.m. ߜ Berlin’s Botanischer Garten (Botanical Garden).50€ ($7) children. Admission is 5€ ($6. contains vast collections of European and exotic plants. English-language texts and audio guides describing the exhibits are available. The Palm House is one of the largest in the world.

You find a revolving restaurant (the Telecafe) up there. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). Unter den Linden 2 (% 030/20304-444.m. I would recommend that you visit the first-floor galleries devoted to World War II.dhm. open doors. admission is 4€ ($5).berliner fernsehturm. while the eastern border is roughly marked off by four lakes: . An elevator whisks you up to the top for a stunning panorama. www. www. Alexanderplatz (% 030/242-3333. in English) before the fall of the wall in 1989. costumes. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. is a new museum housed in the old Zeughaus (Armory).m.000 years of German history in pictures and documents.50€ ($4. The museum is open daily from 10 a. ߜ The Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). From Heerstrasse. located on the Spreepromenade directly opposite the Berlin Cathedral. to midnight. Personally. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). and rummage through drawers and closets. Havelchausee. and daily November through February from 10 a. winds past several picturesque bays and beaches along the Havel River. the forest’s western border. (Thurs until 8 p. The entire history of German cinema is documented in rare film clips from the silent era up to the present. There’s a kind of heartfelt. (Sat until 10 p. Berliners call it “the speared onion” because of its shape.m. One wing is devoted to the legendary Marlene Dietrich. too.-km (15-sq.m.50) for children under 16. The museum.m.m.). a native Berliner who catapulted to international fame in 1930 in Josef von Sternberg’s Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel) and went on to become Germany’s only major star in Hollywood. ߜ The Grünewald (S-Bahn: Grünewald). the DDR’s version of a car. letters. Visitors can sit in a Trabi. props.25).-mile) forest that begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm. is a weird-looking television tower built by the Communists back in the 1960s. nostalgic charm to many of the exhibits. to 6 p.m. to 6 p. it’s a sobering experience. www. to midnight.75) for students. The rooms are set up chronologically. Sony Center in Potsdamerstrasse 2 (% 030/300-9030. The fascinating Marlene memorabilia includes photos. appeals to anyone who has an interest in German film or film in general. ߜ The Filmmuseum Berlin.) Admission is 5€ ($6. the forest stretches some 10km (6 miles) south to the popular Wannsee lake. is open daily from 10 a.. Like many German museums. this one is exhaustive and can be exhausting because it attempts to cover The tower is open daily March through October from 9 a. is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. or German Democratic Republic. Admission is 6€ ($7. explore a typical DDR living room.filmmuseum-berlin.m. a You need at least an hour here. to 8 p. ߜ The Fernsehturm am Alexanderplatz (Television Tower).50) for adults. and documents. The elevator to the top costs 8€ ($10) for adults and and 3€ ($3.154 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany called the GDR. Panoramastrasse 1a.

schwulesmuseum. which has had gay bars since the 1920s. Lietzenburger Strasse 9a (% 030/313-9936. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder that the Nazis exterminated thousands of homosexuals in addition to millions of Jews. For my recommended gay and lesbian nightspots. The Schwules Museum (Gay Museum).m. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). open daily from 10 a. one of the world’s oldest gay and lesbian bookstores.prinz-eisenherz. Also see Chapter 9.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 155 Gay and lesbian Berlin Berlin has a century-old gay and lesbian history. the so-called Pink (or Gay) Village. The city’s gay information center is The gay scene is more international in the area around Nollendorfplatz. and the city remains a mecca for international gay and lesbian travelers. Schlachtensee. stocks a vast array of new and rare fiction.” later in this chapter. Nollendorfplatz is the site of the Lesbisch-Schwules Stadtfest (LesbianGay Street Fair). Another good source for information is Eisenherz Buchladen. The first woman ever . Den Homosexuellen Opfern des National Socialismus (Killed and Forgotten. Love Parade/Love Week in July attracts thousands to a huge gay party scene. is a large gallery-like space in Kreuzberg with changing exhibitions on gay life in Germany and around the world. In the eastern part of the city. www. In mid-June. although on weekends you have plenty of The Christopher Street Day parade is an even larger citywide gay event that takes place the last week in June. www. see “Checking out the dance clubs and bars. Fasanenstrasse 24 (% 030/882-5210. Saturday until 5 p.mann-o-meter.m. The Homosexual Victims of National Socialism). Bülowstrasse 106 (% 030/ U-Bahn: Mehringdamm). U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). the Grünewald (Green Forest) is a good place to get away from the urban jungle. Prenzlauer Berg has become the new gay area. Grünewaldsee. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 2 to 6 p. English. in the heart of what has been for decades the gay heart of Berlin. lesbian and gay life has centered around Nollendorfplatz (U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). The staff is knowledgeable and and magazines in German. to 8 p. art books. up to 500.m. and other languages. and Schildhorn. Krumme Lanke. nonfiction.000 people congregate for this Gay Pride festival.. More information on gay life in Berlin is available on the Web site Mehringdamm 61 (% 030/6959-9050. Berlin is the only city in the world with a gay museum. is devoted to the powerful works of Berlinborn artist Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945).m.25). Traditionally.. Kreuzberg is another gay-friendly borough with a big selection of bars. Admission is 5€ ($6. A memorial plaque mounted on the outside south wall of the Nollendorfplatz subway station. The store. reads: Totgeschlagen-Totgeschiegen. Loaded with wooded paths and sandy beaches. S-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). www. The center is open Monday through Friday from 5 to 9 p. ߜ The Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum. and other political victims.

The Guelph Treasure. You can see the collection in about half an hour. the Golden 1920s. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). grieving quality. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. the quarter was the last major reconstruction project of the German Democratic Party that ruled former East Germany.m. Braque.m.m. its most dazzling exhibit. % 030/ 2472-4529. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse). Reconstructed palaces. and colorful displays to tell about eight centuries of life in Berlin. open from 10 a. the upper floors contain sculptures. period taverns. Saturday and Sunday 11 a.156 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany elected to the Prussian Academy of the Arts. . not far from the Gendarmenmarkt in Berlin Mitte. and Giacometti. down narrow streets illuminated by gas lanterns. Matthäiskirchplatz. open Tues–Sun 10 a.m. Nicholas. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 11 a. ߜ Kunstgewerbemuseum (Arts and Crafts Museum). Matisse.75) for students and children.m. the Nikolaikirche (Church of St.m.m.75) for children and students. to 6 p. The Nazis later banned her works. 4€ ($5) for children. is an enjoyable multimedia museum that uses films. ߜ Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter. to 4:30 p. loss. Nikolaikirchplatz. to 6 p.m. and deprivations of wartime and have a stark.m.m.). ߜ The Story of Berlin.m. displays applied arts and crafts from the Middle Ages through the present day. the themed exhibits chronicle all the major historical events. your ticket for the Gemäldegalerie will get you in. to 6 p. You also find a nice cafeteria. photos..50) for adults. WWII and its aftermath. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Ku’damm-Karree. Kulturforum (% 030/2090-5555. and 3€ ($3. showcases several important paintings by Picasso and works by Klee. is a collection of medieval church articles in gold and silver. The lower floors of the museum display woodcuts and lithographs. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Beginning with the city’s founding in 1237. a small museum located across from the Egyptian Museum in Charlottenburg. Schlossstrasse 1 (% 030/3269-5819.–6 p.25) for adults. is a historic riverside quarter restored to resemble its medieval and baroque heyday (with a few modern design touches). 3€ ($3. U-/S-Bahn: Mendelssohn–Bartholdy–Park). sounds. adjoining the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery.m. the church was restored in time for the city’s 750th anniversary in 1987. Admission is 6€ ($7. to 6 p. Admission is 8€ ($10) for adults. including the reign of Frederick the Great. see earlier description). the Industrial Revolution. Kurfürstendamm 207–208 (% 030/8872-0100. Many of Kollwitz’s works express the sorrow. and old churches make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque ramble along the Spree River. Kollwitz resigned her position in 1933 to protest Hitler’s rise to power. The basement rooms display contemporary design from the German Bauhaus school to American Charles Eames and the Memphis design group. Named for Berlin’s oldest church. ߜ Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit (Berggruen Museum: Picasso and His Times). Admission is 5€ ($6.

7.m. Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour Taking a guided sightseeing tour (Stadtrundfahrt) can help you to see parts of this huge city that you may otherwise miss. Although you don’t get a guide. The same company’s three-hour “Big Berlin Tour” departs at 10 a. At the end of the tour.).m. From November through former residence of Frederick the Great (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). (until 8 p.m. Tickets cost 20€ ($25) per person. costs 22€ ($27) per person. to 8 p. and Sundays.m. the cheapest bus tour of Berlin is public bus 100. The tour passes 14 important stops in Berlin.m. with an additional 2:15 p..m. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190.30€ ($12) for adults. to 6 p. Saturdays. and the fall of the wall.50) for children. You can get on and off the bus at any point during the hour. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). www. and Potsdamer Platz. Adolf Hitler. head upstairs to the front seats for the best views.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 157 divided Berlin during the Cold War. This attraction is a good overall introduction to Berlin that teens may enjoy. a guide takes you down to visit an underground nuclear bomb shelter built in the 1970s. The exhibit is open daily from 10 a. which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and passes most of the major sites in western and eastern Berlin.m.50€ ($9) for students. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). including the Europa Center.).m. (last admission 6 p.m.50€ ($4.m.m.m. All tours include a guide who delivers commentaries in German and English. on foot. the Brandenburg Gate. 2 children). Thursday. daily. Severin+Kühn also conducts an interesting tour of Potsdam. The price is 37€ ($46) per person. (Nov–Mar until 3 p. and 21€ ($26) for families (2 adults. located in what once was part of the Nazi SS and Gestapo headquarters. Admission is 9. site of the palace of Sanssouci. . May–Sept). Departures are Tuesday through Sunday at 10 a. From April through October. Allow at least two hours to see everything. ߜ Topographie des Terrors (Topography of Terror).m. The museum is open daily from 10 a. and covers more sites (and includes add-ons like Potsdam or a river cruise). You can catch the double-decker bus in front of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). Admission is free.m. and Sunday at 10 a. 3. Saturday.severinkuehn-berlin. You can tour Germany’s capital with an experienced guide by bus. tour on Fridays. Severin+Kühn offers its Potsdam/Sanssouci tour on Tuesday. Bus tours Severin+Kühn. making them accessible and enjoyable for kids and adults. is an open-air exhibit detailing how the Nazis came to power and the crimes against humanity they committed under the leadership of der Führer. or by boat. to 6 p. Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 (% 030/2548-6703. offers a two-hour “City Circle Tour” that departs daily every half-hour from 10 a. and 2 p.

see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z” earlier in this chapter. Be aware. and Hafen Treptow.m. such as Goebbels’s Propaganda Ministry and Hitler’s New Reichschancellery. . who wears a Berlin Walks badge.sternundkreis. outside the main entrance to Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). Tours last from 21⁄2 to 3 hours and cost 12€ ($15) for and you’ll find several landing docks with waiting boats. tour from April through September (Sat only at 1 p. For a quick and interesting take on Berlin from the water. the Königliche Bibliothek (Royal Library). starts at 2:30 p. this tour. only).158 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Walking tours For an excellent introduction to Berlin and its history. You don’t need advance reservations for any of the tours. Boat tours A boat tour is the most unusual way to see portions of Berlin. Following an Itinerary Every visitor to Berlin faces one problem: how to see as much as possible in a limited amount of time.m.m. among other major sites. The same company offers other boat tours from Jannowitzbrücke in Berlin-Mitte Schlossbrücke near Charlottenburg Palace. 10 a. This walk starts daily at 10 a. offers boat trips from April through October. the city’s best-known boat operator. “Infamous Third Reich Sites” focuses on the sites of major Nazi buildings in central Berlin. Mondays from March through September. on Saturday. you can request an English translation). What do you see if you have only one.m. that all of its tours are given only in German (on most tours.m. “Jewish Life in Berlin” takes you through the prewar Jewish community. though. and the monumental heart of the former East Berlin. Local waterways include the Spree and Havel rivers — ranging in size from narrow channels to large lakes — in addition to the many canals created in the 19th century. with an additional Wednesday 10 a. on Sunday. the one-hour “Inner City” trip (8€/$10) departing from Nikolaiviertel offers good views of the Reichstag. and 2:30 p. just walk along the Spreepromenade behind the Berlin cathedral. 10€ ($13) for those younger than 26. two. Stern. Pushkinallee 60–70 (% 030/536-3600. or three days at your disposal? The itineraries in this section are common-sense. For descriptions of most of the stops. available March through October. free for children younger than 14. www. Several other companies offer boat tours as well. (Nov–Mar at 10 a.m.und Kreisschiffahrt. Nov–Mar). the Pergamon Museum. www.berlinwalks. the tour starts at 10 a. try one of the English-language walking tours offered by Original Berlin Walks (% 030/ 301-9194.m. limited-time suggestions that include the top Berlin “Discover Berlin” is a three-hour introductory tour that takes you past the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate. You meet the guide. in front of the taxi stand.

First visit the Reichstag. Many stay open late on Thursday evenings. or a cabaret/variety show. see the “Berlin flea markets” sidebar. and end with a stroll down Unter den Linden or the Kurfürstendamm. stop in at Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. and cutlery. symbol of Berlin. head over to the Jüdisches Museum in Freuzberg or explore the Tiergarten.m. and then go on to Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) for a palace tour. enjoy an opera. china.m. Return to Potsdamer Platz to see the newest section of Berlin. often to 8:30 p. visiting the palace of Sanssouci and grounds (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). for example. except on the sales racks in the department stores. are prized for their quality. take a walking or bus tour of Berlin (see “Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour. crystal. In the evening. walk along the Kurfürstendamm and dine in a local restaurant.m.m. Saturday hours usually are from 9 or 10 a. .Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 159 If you have one day in Berlin Start early. From there you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. In the evening. but Sunday shopping is otherwise not common. where the new dome provides a marvelous view out over the city.m. In the afternoon. to 2 p. both in the Kulturforum. Afterward. But keep in mind that you’ll pay less for goods made in Germany and the European Union than for goods imported to Germany from the United States. to 6 or 6:30 p.” earlier). For the two major Trödelmarkts (flea markets). Shopping for Local Treasures Berlin is a great shopping city and you can find just about anything you want. If you have two days in Berlin On the second day. followed by a visit to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) and the Neue Nationalgalerie. then walk down Unter den Linden. exploring the nearby Gendarmenmarkt and paying a brief visit to the Pergamon Museum to see the Pergamon Altar and/or the Altes Museum to view the famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti. German porcelain. Don’t expect a lot of “deals” in Berlin. Some stores in highly trafficked areas (such as the Hauptbahnhof) are open on Sunday. Most stores in Berlin are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. and their prices are lower here than in the United States. a concert. If you have three days in Berlin Spend half of the third day in Potsdam. with its Cold War museum.

This area offers a wide array of stores. but the stores there tend to be newer. Stores here often are cheaper than on the fancier KuDamm. The market is open every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. U-Bahn: Reinickendorfer Strasse). adjacent to the Tiergarten S-Bahn station near the corner of the Bachstrasse and Strasse des 17 Juni. Ranke Strasse. .m. S-Bahn: Tiergarten). outdoor retail “passage” created right on the Ku-Damm at Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse). is on Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). especially between Breitscheidplatz and Olivaer Platz. short for Kurfürstendamm (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). sort-of antiques. where you can browse for clothing and bric-a-brac. If nothing catches your fancy. here you’ll find antiques and collectibles.m. The specialty stores on the side streets around the Ku-Damm. but it’s best to come early because many traders leave by midafternoon. many specializing in German fashions for women. an upscale. check out the flea market at Arkonaplatz (% 030/786-9764. are good shopping grounds. here you find around 75 shops joined by restaurants and cafes. nostalgia. is the favorite weekend shopping spot for countless Berliners. The Berliner Trödelmarkt (no phone. line the street.m. just take a seat at one of the many cafes around Arkonaplatz and enjoy the scene in one of Berlin’s hippest neighborhoods. the Europa Center (% 030/3480088). the only decent shopping was in western Berlin. which is currently undergoing a piecemeal renovation/face-lift to bring it up to par with eastern Berlin and lure back shoppers. and Nürnberger Strasse. Europa Center has lost much of its allure and looks dated compared to the newly opened Neues Kranzler Eck.. furniture. Berlin flea markets A flea market in Germany is called a Trödelmarkt or a Flohmarkt. Berlin’s first shopping mall. including books. to 5 p. The same times apply to the flea market at Heidestrasse (% 030/452-9924. is Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) and its intersecting streets: Marburger Strasse. Another good shopping street in western Berlin. all-around shopping. who come to find pieces of kitsch. Neighborhoods and malls The main shopping boulevard in the western part of Berlin is the famous Ku-Damm. and more expensive. porcelain. in addition to stores carrying cheap souvenirs and T-shirts. and 6 p. If you’re in Mitte on Sunday between 10 a. truth to tell. close to Ku-Damm. Quality stores. and records.160 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Shopping in western Berlin Throughout the decades when the wall divided Berlin. and used clothing. The shopping scene has definitely moved east as well. trendier. But.m. which remains the best place for allpurpose.

has some of the best boutiques and big-name stores in Berlin. You find trendier boutiques along Bleibtreustrasse. household goods. Wertheim has a large restaurant with a view over half the city. and theaters. and. Wertheim. Uhlandstrasse 181–183 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 161 Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel The newest shopping. Bleibtreustrasse 30 (% 030/885-0080. Kurfürstendamm 42 (% 030/881-1000. Fashion Every big-name designer you can think of has a store in Berlin. with more being added all the time. Grosse Hamburger Strasse. is a huge department store. contains about 100 shops. including haute-couture women’s clothing. Shoppers interested in quality at any price need to head to Kempinski Plaza. studios. Chapeaux Hutmode Berlin. a small. is a couture hatmaker inspired by vintage fashion magazines and glamorous . A grand pre–World War I shopping arcade with interconnected courtyards (Hinterhöfe) occupies most of the block formed by Oranienburger Strasse. electrical devices. Bleibtreustrasse 51 (% 030/312-0913. but here are some lesser-known retail venues that may be of interest to fashionistas. The area later became Berlin’s Jewish quarter. The new Potsdamer Platz Arkaden (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). fashionable women’s shoe store with a helpful staff. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). or “barn district” (S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). known for its six floors of upscale merchandise and sixth-floor food department. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). named for the hay barns that once stood here. and souvenirs. and Sophienstrasse. Bleibgrün. and happening neighborhood area is eastern Berlin’s Scheuneviertel. The Uhland-Passage. scattered over three levels. Kurfürstendamm 231 (% 030/ 880-030. home to some of the most exclusive boutiques in the city. is a long-established shop for men’s and women’s clothing made in Germany. Some of the stores offer cost-cutting clothing and housewares. Cutting-edge shops line the streets around the arcade. Department stores Kaufhaus des Westens (called KaDeWe [ka-day-vay] for short). Austria. one of the most comprehensive shopping malls in Berlin. is good for travel aids and general basics: perfumes. The spaces within the courtyards have now been turned into a series of galleries. and Italy. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). arts. some of its oldest buildings survived the World War II bombing raids that reduced most of Berlin to rubble. jewelry. at Uhlandstrasse 170 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Rosenthaler Strasse. amazingly. Bogner Zenker-Berlin. clothing for the entire family. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Tauentzien 21 (% 030/21210. photography supplies.

Kurfürstendamm 226 (% 030/8856340. Discovering Nightlife in Berlin You find more going on in Berlin than in any other city in Germany. at the corner of Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). is at the Berliner Markthalle.” in this chapter. Perfumes Harry Lehmann. Meissener Porzellan. Friedrichstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). Savignyplatz 13 Passage (% 030/ 3180-2354. The prices are amazingly reasonable for the quality of the perfumes. is the place to go for contemporary Rosenthal porcelain and china from Bavaria. offers an array of Meissen dinner plates. For more shopping in the eastern part. distilled from flowers. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Shopping in eastern Berlin The eastern part of the city has undergone major changes in the retail sector since reunification. with hundreds of bars. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorferstrasse). orchestra and chamber concerts. Kantstrasse 106 (% 030/324-3582. The largest shopping mall in eastern Berlin. and theater performances every night of the week. see “Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel. Royal Porcelain Factory). carries the most avant-garde jewelry in Berlin. showcasing more than three dozen of the boldest jewelry artisans in the city. is a wonderfully old-fashioned parfumerie where most of the scents come from old family recipes. grasses. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Charlottenstrasse 34 (% 030/20458166. variety shows. Porcelain and china Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur (KPM. one of the most famous porcelain manufacturers in Europe.162 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany movies from the 1930s.and 19th-century KPM designs. sells porcelain pieces hand-painted and handdecorated with patterns based on traditional 18th. Kurfürstendamm 27 in Kempinski Hotel Bristol (% 030/8867-2110. . The main street. Treykorn. and chandeliers. and cabarets appealing to every taste. and leaves. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). clubs. now offers some of Berlin’s most elegant shopping. with upmarket boutiques selling everything from women’s fashions to Meissen porcelain. dance. sculptures. offering a little bit of everything. Berlin’s nightlife is legendary. The performing-arts scene is jammed with opera. Rosenthal.

m. and cabarets are available at Hekticket (www. including opera. day-of-performance tickets for music.m.m. click “Culture” to access a complete list of events in any category for the specific dates of your visit. you won’t be lacking for things to do. which charge a commission.hekticket. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Good news for culture vultures: With three major symphony orchestras. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). For some of the larger opera. The box office is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. is the 1950s-era opera house that served the former West Berlin. Tickets for more than 100 venues.m. U-Bahn: Deutsche Oper). I include Web sites in this section so you can check performance schedules and ticket information before you arrive in Berlin. You can see both opera and ballet here in a house with no bad sightlines. and theater venues throughout Berlin are sold for up to 50 percent off at the BERLIN classical concerts. Bismarckstrasse 35 (% 030/341-0249 for recorded information or 030/343-8401. The newest trend is to start performances as early as 6 p. Opera and ballet In Charlottenburg. both are open Monday through Friday from 10 a. available at all newsstands. Getting tickets You can buy tickets at the venue’s box office (the box office is called a Kasse. Ticket prices range from about 23€ to 80€ ($29–$100). on the S-Bahn bridge at Alexanderplatz (% 030/ 12: Exploring Berlin 163 Finding out what’s happening Check the listings in Zitty ( Whenever possible. ballet companies. up to the time of performance and on Sunday from 10 a. with outlets at Hardenbergstrasse 29 (% 030/2309930. for locations and opening An excellent online source is www. You also can buy tickets online. the Deutsche Oper Berlin. three opera houses. If the venue doesn’t have its own Web site. and dozens of theaters and cabarets. see Chapter 11. A Berlin Welcome Card (see Chapter 11) allows you to buy reduced-price tickets (usually 25 percent off) at several major performing-arts venues. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garter) and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 12. so everyone can get home at a reasonable hour. deutscheoperberlin. .de). Tickets can usually be purchased right up to curtain time. you can buy tickets online. and classical-music venues. you can buy tickets from ticket agencies. musicals. to 6 p. for the latest schedules of what’s going on where. dance. Unsold. www. to 2 p. including the opera houses.m. you may be able to order tickets online at www. or Berlin Programm. pronounced kah-suh).berlin-tourist-information. Alternatively.

The Berlin Symphony Orchestra and other orchestras and classical music groups perform in this glittering. Tickets range from about 20€ to 80€ ($25–$100). If you don’t speak the language but want to experience German theater. Symphony orchestras and classical music In the Kulturforum complex. The Web site is a famous and well-respected East Berlin house with a unique artistic performs English-language plays in different venues around the www.m. is housed in a historic building in Chamber-music concerts are given at the adjoining Kammermusiksaal. performs at both the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt. some seats in the upper rings have limited views of the stage.m. most of the plays are performed in German.komische-oper-berlin. the renowned Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Sir Simon Rattle plays in the acoustically outstanding Philharmonie. but. operas. www. www.m. Ticket prices range from about 7€ ($8. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. www. Behrenstrasse 55–57 (% 030/ has a useful listing of plays and films in English.staatsoper-berlin. Different ticket prices apply for each event. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden).konzerthaus. of course.164 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. You can buy tickets at the Konzerthaus box office.75) for standing room to 110€ ($137).. which is open daily noon to 6 p. The programs feature opera and ballet performances. www. The Berliner Grundtheater (% 030/7800-1497. Matthäikirchstrasse 1 (box office % 030/2548-8999. Berlin’s Komische Oper. and symphony concerts are performed The city’s third major orchestra. musicals. You can buy tickets online. Berlin Phil concerts always sell out.m. Theater Berlin’s theater scene is outstanding.m. and one hour before performances. The historic Schauspielhaus in the former East Berlin has undergone a stunning transformation and is now the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). pitchperfect hall. I suggest you order your tickets online several weeks before your trip. to 7 p. so if you want to hear this fabulous orchestra. Gendarmenmarkt (% 030/203-090. the Berlin Symphony. to 2 p. The box office (Unter den Linden 4) is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a..thebgt. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. I . Prices ranges from 8€ to 62€ ($10–$77).m. and an hour before performances. and Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 8 p. and Sunday from 1 p.m. Unter den Linden 7 (% 030/ to 8 p. Tickets are available at the box offices of both venues. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). to the time of performance. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz).

Believing that these glamorous ladies are really gentlemen sometimes is difficult. wintergarten-variete.m. Helene Weigel.25–$37). in Mitte. is a big theater that features variety acts from around the world. Playwright Bertolt Brecht formed this group with his wife. www. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1 (% 030/2840-8155.. Cabarets and variety shows Berlin has long been famous for its cabarets and variety shows. matinees on Saturday and Shows begin at 8 p. The most expensive seats are on stage level.. Shows and showtimes vary. Cover is 35€ ($44). Checking out the dance clubs and bars If you’re into nightlife. visit www.m. Potsdamer Strasse 96 (% 030/2500-8888. Chez Nous Travestie-Theater. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Part of the performance usually involves a selection of popular songs. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).diestachelschweine. friedrichstadtpalast.m. and one hour before performances. is a famous little cabaret where all the performers are in extravagant drag and most of the audience is heterosexual. is the largest and most nostalgic Berlin cabaret. with 4 when the theater’s closed) the performances begin at 8 and spending an evening in one can be enjoyable even if you don’t speak a word of German.m.berliner-ensemble.m. Friedrichstadt-Palast. Europa Center.. www. and 9:15 p. Tauentzienstrasse and Budapester Strasse (% 030/261-4795.m. Monday through Friday. jugglers. and Saturday at 6 p. This section includes just a few of the bars and dance clubs in Berlin. you can find something to do all across the 12: Exploring Berlin 165 recommend going to see a production by the famous Berliner Ensemble. and Saturday at 6 and 10 U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). For more listings.m. Die Stachelschweine (The Porcupine). Shows take place Tuesday through Friday at 7:30 p. with a nightly variety show featuring magicians.m. Ticket prices range from about 5€ to 30€ ($6. Cover is 29€ to 59€ ($36–$74). www. but most nights (except Mon.m. clowns.m. This cabaret is closed in July. Friedrichstrasse 107 (% 030/2326-2326. . to 6 p.cabaret-chez-nous. too). depending on the show and the day you attend. Nightly shows start at 8:30 and 11 p. U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse). Wintergarten Variété. and live music.m. The cover charge is 12€ to 26€ ($14–$32). is a cabaret that’s been poking fun at the German and American political scenes for many years now. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). www. www. Marburgerstrasse 14 (% 030/213-1810. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). to 6 p. balconies have conventional theater seats (but drinks are sold there.m. Ticket prices range from 17€ to 61€ ($21–$76). and many theater fans enjoy seeing Brecht’s plays performed in “his” theater. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.

housed in an old theater with an Egyptian temple interior. SO36. Kurfürstendamm 156 (% 030/3200-0717. including rock and Latin jazz. the crowd is a hip mixture of gay and straight. Berlin Hilton. Oranienstrasse 190 (% 030/6140-1306. Cover is 5. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte).m.m. The club is open Monday through Thursday from 8 p. is a small. Show days vary.m.m. depending on the band. Live music A Trane. Kantstrasse 12A (% 030/312-8086. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz).m. so call first.m.75–$10). in trendy Kreuzberg. The club is open Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p. to 4 a.m. Friday and Saturday from 9 p. to 5 a. Hours are Monday to Friday 10 p. has two very large rooms. and highly danceable music. U-Bahn: Savignyplatz).. call first to verify.m. Knaack-Klub. is a large. smoky jazz club featuring musicians from around the world.m.50€ ($7).m. You always find dancing on Wednesday. is a four-story club with live rock shows four nights a week featuring German and international touring bands.166 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bars and clubs don’t generally get going until midnight.m. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). Greifswalderstrasse 224 (% 030/442-7060. An empty club may choose to close at 2 a. is a glossy and popular dance club with a great lighting system.. U-Bahn: Prinzenstrasse). and fog machine.m. to 4 a. The cover ranges from 3€ to 8€ ($3. Cover usually is about 5€ ($6.. in happening Prenzlauer Berg. Quasimodo. Cover is 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). .m.m. to 4 a. The club is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9 p.25). Mohrenstrasse 30 (% 030/20230. Pestalozzistrasse 105 (% 030/313-2550. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). depending on the night and who’s playing. Dance clubs Chip.m. to 4 a. video clips.. The club is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 p.m.m. to 4 a.75–$10). industrial-looking late-night disco that plays mostly high-energy retro rock for a crowd that includes lots of students. Admission is free on Tuesday and Wednesday when local musicians perform. otherwise 13€ ($16). Many bars now have an open-ended closing policy. Saturday and Sunday until 7 a. Friday. Far Out. Metropole. This section includes places that are likely to be around for years to come. Cover is 3€ to 8€ ($3. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz).m. Please keep in mind that new bars open and bars close all the time. and Saturday nights. to 2 a. to 4 a. draws a young 20-something crowd. a stage for floor shows. The club is open most nights from 10:30 p.m. is Berlin’s top jazz club. Nollendorfplatz 5 (% 030/217-3680. Cover is 10€ to 16€ ($13–$19). but a packed club can stay open until 6 a. Club hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 10 p. where you encounter many different styles of music.

and they offer meals (see the “Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs” sidebar in this chapter). Lützowplatz 7 (% 030/262-6807.50) for a straightforward drink. so you may feel out of place if you show up in blue jeans and sneakers. Lore Berlin is open nightly until 3 a. 11 Novalistrasse (% 030/2838-7676. unpretentious spot for a plain old glass of bier vom Fass (beer on tap)? What you need is a Kneipe (ka-nigh-puh). Popular bars Later is better if you want to go out barhopping and see what’s happening in Berlin. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). Bar am Lützowplatz. but rather a place where you can relax in a big leather chair and read The Times of London. otherwise free. with bands from Germany and elsewhere playing Wednesday through Saturday nights. Many Berliners have a favorite Kneipe where they stop in after work or later in the evening for a beer and a chat with their friends. cozy. Harry’s New York Bar. a cozy place similar to a neighborhood pub in the United Kingdom. until 4 a. geared toward a very late-night glamour crowd. The bar is open daily from 3 p.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 167 Wild at Heart. has a menu listing almost 200 drinks and a limited selection of food. Times Bar is open daily from 11 a. pop art. Expect to pay at least 6€ ($7. Reingold. These places tend to be fashion-conscious. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). The club is open Monday through Friday from 8 p. Neue Schönhauser Strasse 20 (% 030/2804-5134. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Bahnhof). A small bar like this sometimes is called a Lokal (low-call).m.m. quiet. to 10 a. The Times Bar isn’t a late-nightscene bar. great dance music.m.m.m. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Lore Berlin. one of the longest and narrowest bars in Berlin. to 2 a. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz).m. Saturday and Sunday from 8 p. features cutting-edge design. The following bars currently are popular. and intimate. is hip and fun.m. with minimalist décor. Times Bar. Lützowufer 15 in Grand Hotel Esplanade (% 030/ 2547-8821. Harry’s is open daily from noon to 2 a. Savoy Hotel. to 4 a. and photographs of American presidents. and an intriguing mix of people hanging around a long and narrow bar with theatrical lighting that makes almost everyone look attractive. . The place is open nightly until 4 a.m. Brewpubs also are good places to sample beer. more for anything exotic. Fasanenstrasse 9 (% 030/311-030. is chic and elegant. is reminiscent of a wood-paneled private club in London. is dedicated to hard-core punk. Wienerstrasse 20 (% 030/611-7010. Neighborhood bars: Kneipes and Lokals Do you want to find a casual.. less for a glass of beer. and rockabilly. Admission is about 4€ ($5) for concerts. rock.m.m.

m.m.m.m. main courses run from 5. also unfiltered and topfermented. to 2 a. blond. dumplings. Gasthaus Luisenbräu. You can choose between beers brewed on-premises. and a nice balance of hop bitterness and malt flavor. to 10:30 p. Gaststätte Hoeck is the oldest Kneipe in Charlottenburg and still has its original wood panels with inlaid glass on the walls.20€/$4).m... smoky. U-Bahn: Klostergasse). but be sure to make the palace of Sanssouci your top priority. and unfiltered. is now the capital of the state of Brandenburg.2-liter) glass (1. to midnight. the helles (light) is top-fermented. Spreeufer 4 (% 030/242-4244. Bartenders pour more than a dozen kinds of beer and serve wine by the glass. The bar can be loud. a brewpub in the Nikolaiviertel beside the River Spree. unfiltered. Dating from 1892. You can order hearty portions of German food (meat.50€ to 13€ ($12–$16). (See the “Potsdam” map on the next page. 24km (15 miles) southwest of Berlin.m. Berlin is home to hundreds of Kneipes and Lokals. or microbrewery) in Berlin. Luisenplatz 1 (% 030/341-9388.) . Gasthaus Georgenbräu. Wilmersdorferstrasse 149 (% 030/341-8174. blond. You can order beer in a smallish 6-ounce (0. Potsdam. You can also order plates of hearty German food. The dunkles (dark). is named after the statue of St.000th anniversary in 1993 and has historic sites of its own. topfermented beer. and raucous.m. Traditional food is served in an adjacent room Monday through Saturday from 11 a. sauerkraut.168 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs The first Bierhaus (brewpub. The brewpub is open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a. and salads) to accompany your beer. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz).50€ to 13€ ($6.m. The smoky interior of this brewpub is comfortably Old Berlin. Allow yourself at least half a day to visit this remarkable palace and its beautiful grounds. The house beer is a pale. Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci Frederick the Great’s Schloss Sanssouci (palace of Sanssouci) in Potsdam is the architectural signature of one of Germany’s most dominating personalities. Hours are 8 a. has a darkish amber color. a yeasty aroma.4-liter) serving (3.60€/$2) or in an 11-ounce (0. even though the building is relatively new. opened in 1987 across the street from Charlottenburg Palace. U-Bahn: Bismarckstrasse). to midnight. The Gasthof is open daily from 10 a. George right outside. The town celebrated its 1. Friday and Saturday 10 a. a former garrison town on the Havel River. A famous one is Gaststätte Hoeck. to 12:30 a.90–$16). main courses go for 9.

94 95 W BRANDENBURGER VORSTADT St or m . Tiefer See Hu Br mbo üc ld ke t- Nu th es Breite Str Forststr. the cost is generally about 40€ ($50) for a half-day fast-track tour. you can take one of the Potsdam–Sanssouci bus tours offered by the sightseeing bus companies on Ku-Damm (see “Bus tours” earlier in this chapter). Weinbe Hauptallee lallee e 1 Heg 3 Jägera 2 Sc Friedrich-Ebert-Str. tten Charlo str. str S-Bahn Station S inr ich t ies te-P en ule str wk . If you don’t want to hassle with anything. s te r dte g irewe Volta Allee str. r. .Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 169 Potsdam Hamburg 614 Berlin Potsdam r. ws Havel -M er an nAl lee L 0 0 0. and you’ll almost immediately come to a flight of stairs leading up to the palace. au 4 er . Fried rich-E nge Sch laa tzs tr. turn left. ch- Schloss Charlottenhof Kastanienallee Am Ka n ue Ne en AmGart M an g str.-Sachs-Str. rn Bo NEUER GARTEN Heiliger See rsc rten Ki un ds e Am Ruinenberg llee BERLINER VORSTADT er str . en dt M ran mb Re Am Neuen Palais Linden str.. He zig Tor no eip Im Bogen 631 610 606 Str.-V. Ne uen 692 en Am Ga B273 Po tsdam er Str.25 mi N DINING Biergarten 6 Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle” 7 ATTRACTIONS Bildergalerie 5 Chinesische Teehaus 3 Neues Palais 1 Orangerie 2 Schloss Cecilienhof 8 Schloss Sanssouci 4 Information i Railway Getting there To get to Sanssouci. 695 in front of the station and ride nine stops to the Schloss Sanssouci stop. Dortustr. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof asse i ge Lan cke Brü tr. 608 ls-Str. Cross the road. The bus fare is 1. Lindenavenue Be konomieweg Ökonomieweg Lennéstr. 694 tr. Str. nal rlin ho 6 7 pe Gregornh Mendel-Str. Nedlitzer St en str . you must first get to Potsdam. Lo a- St r.Ossietzky-Str. Feue rba str.25 km 0. Str Kurfü rsten er ass e H. rgstr s PA R K S A N S S O U C I 5 tr. Jungfernsee 8 GERMANY ee ha ll ds Am un Frankfurt Munich Am S Pap pela llee chra g BORNSTEDT Ka th ho arin lzs en tr. C.60€ ($2). str Ze e pp lin . Eichenallee n str. The trip couldn’t be easier: From Berlin. S-Bahn line S7 stops at the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station. Hop on bus no. lst ze str.

www. but information sheets in English are available from the guide. brochures.m. and make music with composer Carl Philip Emanuel Bach. You can see the palace only on a guided tour costing 8€ ($10) for adults.) and on Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. Waits in summer months can be up to three hours long. In short. (Nov–Mar from 10 a.). lakey area to be his second seat of residence outside Berlin. and 5€ ($6.m. and inexpensive guidebooks for both the town and the palace are available at the Potsdam tourist information office in the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (% 0331/270-9051. Your ticket tells you what time you can enter the palace to begin your guided tour. (in winter.m. 1712–1786) built in Potsdam a “small” country palace where he could retire sans souci (without a care) and indulge his passions for music. Fred the Great created the original design for the grounds. discuss weighty matters with French philosopher Voltaire. to 6 p.m. you’re required to don huge felt slippers so you don’t scuff the floors. Either before or after your tour. Potsdam was a royal hangout.m. a place where he could let his wig down. Sanssouci was built between 1745 and 1747 as Frederick’s summerhouse. you may have to wait for a much later tour. Your tour time is printed on your to 5 p.m.m. open Monday through Friday from 9:30 a. All kinds of rococo treasures fill the palace. open daily from 9 a. All the buildings listed here are signposted so you won’t get lost on the grounds. Sat–Sun until 2 p. A timed-entry system is in effect at Sanssouci.). . and philosophy. You find another tourist office at Am Neuen Markt 1 (% 0331/275-580).potsdam. If you don’t arrive early.m. Before setting off on the tour. Friedrich II (called Frederick the Great. The tour is given only in German.m. which you see on a tour that lasts about 45 minutes. and his planning still is evident in the restored vineyard terraces and the area immediately around the palace. Sanssouci was a summer resort for an enlightened monarch. and you must ask for them. spend some time wandering through the magnificent landscaped gardens with their bevy of historic buildings.m.170 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding tourist information Maps. From then on.m. (Nov–Mar to 4 p. To escape the rigors of Berlin court life. One of the greatest and most beautiful examples of European rococo. poetry. Discovering the top attractions Potsdam didn’t gain true importance until the “Great Elector” Friedrich Wilhelm (1620–1688) chose the lovely. leafy. to 8 p.25) for children and students. to 4 p. Schloss (Palace) Sanssouci (% 0331/969-4190) is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.

m.). Admission is 2€ ($2. the palace was used as headquarters for the Potsdam Conference attended by the heads of the Allied powers. to 5 p. open May–Sept daily 10 a. Ornamental “Oriental” buildings like this were all the rage in 18th-century Europe.).m.75).m. you can visit the private rooms used by Crown Prince Wilhelm and Princess Cecelie.m. to 5 p. to 5 p. Admission is 3€ ($3. Inside you see rococo rooms filled with paintings and antiques. Now the palace serves as a hotel and conference center. You can eat for under 4€ ($5) and sit at outdoor tables.m. contains copies of paintings by Raphael and features ornately decorated salons. to 5 p. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. . More interesting are the rooms used for the Potsdam Conference.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 171 ߜ The Bildergalerie (Picture Gallery.). The food is basic wursts with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad). On a guided tour. ߜ The Chinesische Teehaus (Chinese Teahouse) is a little gem of a rococo building resembling a pagoda. (closed Thurs). the largest building in Sanssouci park. Admission for the guided tour is 8€ ($10). ߜ The Neues Palais (New Palace.m. President Harry Truman.–6 p. The palace is open Saturday through Thursday from 9 a. The privileged classes would retire here to drink a new beverage called tea. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. ߜ Built to look like an English country manor.” where you can order a complete meal (open year-round daily 10 a. Admission is 8€ ($10) for a grand tour of all the rooms. The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. % 0331/969-4255).m. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. including U. 10 a. At the end of WWII. This building is not open to the public. you find the fancier Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle. on the eastern side of the palace grounds. % 0331/969-4200) was a royal residence from 1917 until 1945.) across the road behind the palace of Sanssouci.m. inexpensive bite at the Biergarten kiosk (no phone.m.m.m. was completed in 1769 and used by the Hohenzollern royal family. you can grab a quick. to 5 p. ߜ The mid-19th-century Orangerie (% 0331/969-4280).). Schloss Cecilienhof (Cecilienhof Palace. The gallery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. west of the palace.m. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. The Orangerie is open mid-May to midOctober. and Russian dictator Joseph Stalin. Dining at Sanssouci From May through September.m.m. In the adjacent pavilion. was completed in 1763 and displays a collection of works from the Italian Renaissance and baroque eras. % 0331/969-4181).S.m.50).

Most other businesses and stores are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. to 2 p.m. Canadian. ATMs You find ATMs all across Berlin. call % 030/8900-4333. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Two convenient bank branches with 24-hour ATM service are Deutsche Bank at Wittenbergplatz (U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz) and Dresdner Bank at Kurfürstendamm 237 (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). and Saturday 10 a. Emergencies To call the police. See also “Telephone” later in this list and in the appendix.172 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Fast Facts: Berlin American Express American Express has two main offices: Bayreutherstrasse 37–38 (% 030/21476292.m. U. % 01804/ 2255-2362. to 2 p.m.. Hospitals Hotel employees are familiar with the location of the nearest hospital emergency room.K. In an emergency. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number. in Neue Kranzler Eck at Ku-Damm and Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). You can also exchange money at American Express (see the beginning of this list for addresses). are located in the Hauptbahnhof (U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). and Friedrichstrasse 172 (% 030/201-7400.m. South African. you can locate a doctor through Call a Doc. For an emergency doctor. Some stores stay open late on Thursday (usually until 8:30 p. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).m. and Saturday from 9 a. stores are generally not open on Sunday. for a per-minute land-line telephone fee. to 7 p.m. and U. Information The main tourist information centers. If you’re calling within Berlin. dial % 112.). embassies and consulates. Use 30 whenever you’re calling Berlin from outside Germany. to 6 p. use 030.m. shops stay open until 4 or 6 p. Embassies and Consulates See the appendix for the addresses of the Australian. Currency Exchange The currency exchange offices in the Hauptbahnhof and Bahnhof Zoo are open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz or Unter den Linden) and under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at . to 1 p.m.m.m. If you’re within Germany but not in Berlin.m. and on Sunday from 10 a. Business Hours Most banks are open Monday through Friday 9 a. and Saturday 10 a. call % 030/31-00-31 (24 hours). Country Code and City Code The city code for Berlin is 30. open Monday through Friday 9 a. open Monday through Friday 9 a.m. Dentists and Doctors You’ll find a list of doctors and specialists in the Berlin Yellow Pages or.S.m. to 6 or 6:30 p. Irish.m. to 7 p. the first Saturday of the month.m. to 9 p.m.. On langer Samstag (longer Saturday). Berlin phone numbers may have from five to eight digits. To report a fire or to summon an ambulance. for an emergency dentist. Except in the train stations. called BERLIN infostores. dial % 110. call % 112 for an ambulance.m. to 1 or 3 p.m.m.

50 and $31) denominations at any post office or news vendor. to midnight. Post Office The main post office at Joachimstaler Strasse 7 (% 030/8870-8611.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Alexanderplatz (S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.m. until noon. Internet Access One of Berlin’s largest Internet cafes is EasyEverything. located near the Europa Center.50€ to get in through a turnstile. Restrooms You find public facilities throughout Berlin and at all train terminals. Taxis You can hail taxis along Berlin’s major streets. Kurfürstendamm 224 (www. offering over 300 terminals. Saturday 8 a. see the appendix. U-/S-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Maps The most detailed Berlin map with a complete street index is the fold-out Falk plan. The same hours . Taxis with illuminated roof signs are available. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). available at most newsstands. is the Dorotheenstadtische Apotheke. To make an international call. For more. check out Chapter 11. For a centrally located pharmacy. www. For hours and other information about each office. most accept only Telefonkarte (telephone cards).bvg. to 10 p. go to the nearest one and look for a sign in the window giving the address of the nearest pharmacy with nighttime hours (such postings are required by law). which list events around the city. cities. which you can purchase in 6€ and 25€ ($7.m. For more about fares and where to call for a taxi. 173 Regular post office hours are Monday through Friday 8 a.m. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). dial % 110. In use common sense and caution when you’re in a crowded public area. Many phones also accept Visa cards. Pharmacies If you need a pharmacy (Apotheke.. Newspapers and Magazines Newsstands carry Zitty and BerlinProgramm. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12 (% 030/261-4142. a few steps from Unter den Linden. Some require 0.20€ as you depart. Sunday and holidays from 10 a. ah-potay-kuh) at night.m.m. to 6 p. you are expected to leave 0. You can also make long-distance calls from post offices. Single women need to avoid the dimly lit streets in Kreuzberg at night. Transit Assistance The Transit Authority (BVG. As in any large metropolis. Safety Berlin is safer than most large U. Friedrichstrasse 154 (% 030/204-4817.m. use a call box marked Inlands und Auslandsgespräche. see Chapter 11. if there is an attendant. Telephones Finding a coin-operated telephone in Berlin is now rare. to midnight. go to Europa–Apotheke.m. in others. Most have instructions in English. Taxes See the appendix for details.S. branch locations are in the Sony Center and Karl-Marx-Strasse 78. Police To call the provides U-Bahn information (% 030/19449) and S-Bahn information (% 030/2974-3333) daily from 6 a. easyeverything.

you find information in English about Web Sites The best overall Web sites for tourist information on Berlin are Weather You can check the weather online before you go at www. and www. shopping. de.zitty. where you can buy tickets and obtain a free transit map.174 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany apply to the BVG information kiosk outside Bahnhof Zoo. www. . At these sites. nightlife. and

prosperous city. If you’re traveling in the north. Hansa cities formed trade affiliations that linked northern Germany to the eastern Baltic regions and Scandinavia. (See the “Hamburg” map in this chapter. the most powerful commercial network in Europe. located on the Elbe River about 100km (62 miles) from the North Sea. miles).Chapter 13 Hamburg. Everyone carries away a different impression of this bustling. even haughty. windswept. A sense of the vast northern seas permeates the city. but also densely green and filled with trees. km (294 sq. raincoat. trade. even during the summer. watery landscape that spreads out over 754 sq. Bremen. Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World Hamburg. and lakes. an umbrella. Hamburg and Lübeck still retain the term Hansestadt (Hanseatic City) in their official titles. For others. and sweater probably will come in handy. In medieval times. a city of “high culture” and elegance and obsessed with making money. Some find Hamburg to be a bit smug. sunny weather in northern Germany at any time of the year. and commerce. Hamburg is sin-city . has a flat. marshlands. Don’t expect dry. Hamburg. Lübeck. In fact. which also is one of Germany’s 16 federal states. often gray and misty. and Bremen were important members of the Hanseatic League. and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the port city of Hamburg ᮣ Touring the ancient city of Bremen ᮣ Exploring medieval Lübeck T his chapter covers three cities in northern Germany with long histories of seafaring.) The terrain is characteristic of northern Germany: low.

-PauliLandungsbrücken 5 asse Schaarsteinweg Blei 6 tin ar rM the se Lu tras S chen 7 trasse fleet Stras s e au s see Bud ape Ka ise ster stra - ra sse ss e ig-Erh ard-S . Michaelis a7 str Tierpark Hagenbeck 1 ch ba Wallringpark: Alter Botanischer Garten 13 Grosse Wallanlagen 10 Kleine Wallanlagen 11 Planten und Blomen 12 Keiler 1 HOHELUFT Le hm w eg Ho he g R2 or nd r fe we Jungfrauenthal luf tch au sse G E Hamburg Berlin NY Frankfurt M A R Munich pe ism c ar ks tr se as Ep e Innocentiapark B HARVESTEHUDE Werder- Sc asse hla EIMSBÜTTEL Bu nde sstr nk re ye Hallerstrasse ee Be sse Ludw igErha S t r a sr d se Karolinenstr kort stra Al t on asse r ae St ra ss e SternschanzenHeinrichpark HertzTurm Re str ntz as else Planten un Blomen 12 Alter Botanischer Garten Har Feldstrasse 13 Kleine Wallanlagen -Fock rch 11 Go Ha u 4 sse e cis 2 3 ch Heiligengeistfeld au 10 Gla Grosse Wallanlagen ll Gr ilh elm ps all im wa ind am Sc hl elh r-W F r u c h t a ll e e S chä fer k um St Gros Freih se eit Thadenstrasse erL o u ise-S c h r ö d sse Stra Simon -von- Utrecht-Strasse ALTONA 4 ST.176 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg ACCOMMODATIONS Aussen Alster 28 Hamburg Marriott 15 Hotel Hafen Hamburg 6 Hotel Side 14 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg 26 Park Hyatt Hamburg 22 Pension Helga Schmidt 25 Wedina 27 DINING Apples Restaurant 22 Cremon Weinkeller 17 Die Rösterei 23 Eisenstein 3 Fischküche Karin Brahm 18 Le Paquebot 20 Melange 6 Ratsweinkeller Hamburg 19 Voltaire Bistro 2 ATTRACTIONS R2 Alster Lake 29 Erotic Art Museum 4 Hafen (Harbor) 5 Hamburger Kunsthalle 24 Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte Strese9 mann strass Rathaus 16 e Reeperbahn 8 4 St. Jacobikirche 21 e ss St. PAULI Reepe rbahn 8 Ludw Ho sse 9 lst Schom en of e p Gri nde lalle Eim sbü tte l er Ch burgstra Palmaille Fischmarkt aar tor G r o s s e Elbes t r ass e Elbe Baumwall Alst Sch erfl König Frie eet strass e se ras hst dric Herbert- tr ocht-S hard-N strasse Bern St.

25 mi Bro or okt kai Information i 0. Bremen. Petri Kirche 19 sse asse gstr sse ldin a Spa nalstr a rdk No Ham me rbr ALTSTADT Do ms 17 e Dov nfle Ob er brü baum cke - Ost-West-Strasse Katharinenstrasse et Am sin B Ba an nks cks tra 18 Kajen stra a sse 0 0 s ss se e 0.25 km Ha St mbu ra r ss ge e r Le rc he nf eld Bellevue Be lle Sie vu rich e Herderstrasse stra sse Be et ho n ve str as se He rbe rt-W eic hm ann -St W in te rh ud er W eg Harvest ras Sc h lweg ön huder Weg lend amm er ck e be ss Lü stra Ju ng fe rn sti eg Po sts tra en sse 75 Nag elsw eg ook stra sse N .-HeussPlatz GustavMahler-Park eruf Se ch sli ng K Ko op pp e ls Wall 14 Ken ne dyb rücke L Lo om mb ba arrd ds sb brrü üc ck ke e An de 27 tra asss se rA l r ste 28 sp fo rte e BORGFELDE lal e W rass st 26 25 24 Hachmannplatz ST.Chapter 13: Hamburg. GEORG Hansaplatz S in te da m m 15 CAB asse Str Ba lin da m m Binnenalster Hauptbahnhof öncke 22 M 23 21 22 se as t Steinstr Speersor i Adena K i Ble che nfl eet 20 sse bergstra e ueralle ee r-All ache m u h c S t r u tra M 16 Börse st er g ö n c ke b r. and Lübeck 177 Fer Hochallee strasse nsic ht Gell Hans-H en n erts se tras -W ahn y-J eg BARMBEK Weide strasse Hallerstras Rothenbaumchaussee se Mitte Alsterpark PÖSSELDORF Milchst rasse UHLENHORST se 5 da eA uss i m ch t ds bu m er ROTHERBAUM Aussenalster lweg en wi k HOHENFELDE Müh Mitte hw an M un rg 29 er Sc Alst Th. Matt Holzb nde Sa ra ss e St.

airport.178 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany incarnate. and car.–11 p. www. which explains why you find historic buildings standing side by side with steel-and-glass structures. the trip time is 21⁄2 hours. With its giant port and strongly international flair. plane. an array of easily identified banks with currency-exchange you’re as much aware of water as land — Hamburg has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined. this city makes a good headquarters.). Taxi stands are in front of all the terminals. By plane Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of the city center is Hamburg Airport. The easiest way to get into the city is by the Airport Express bus. By train Hamburg has two major rail stations. not under.m. The bus runs every 15 to 20 minutes (5 a.50) for adults and 2. A taxi from the airport to the city costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 30 minutes.–9:20 p. Paul-Baumer-Platz 1–3 (% 040/50750. the journey takes about 25 minutes.m.ham. From Berlin. For train information. Hachmannplatz 10 (% 040/39183046).) to the city’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Most trains arrive at the centrally located Hamburg Hauptbahnhof. horn-blaring port and sedate late-19th-century neighborhoods. Because of the Elbe and two enormous inner-city lakes. land of the lurid Reeperbahn.m. Most major European cities have direct flights to Hamburg. and then make a second stop at Hamburg-Altona (% 040/39182387) in the western part of the city. Hamburg has a huge. Germans often call it their “gateway to the world.50€ ($3. . Hamburg has train connections with all major German and European cities. call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) at % 11861. Intriguing Hamburg is worth a day or two of your time.” Getting there Hamburg is the largest city in northern Germany and is easy to reach by train. bustling.20€ ($6. If you want to explore northern Germany. depending on traffic. Much of the city was destroyed during World War II (WWII). The terminal contains a tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300) in the arrivals area of terminals 1 and 2 (open daily 5:30 a. and other independent currency-exchange services and ATMs. An S-Bahn line connects the two stations. The one-way fare is 5. which stops in front of terminals 1 and 4.m. a street where sex is sold overthe-counter.10) for children younger than 12.

. to 6 p.-Pauli-Landungsbrüucken. (hourly in winter). Cost is 18€ ($22) for adults. www.m. In the harbor area. Another good online source of information is www. including a drink.m. Two bridges. Orienting yourself The Hauptbahnhof is located on the eastern fringe of central Hamburg. and the A24 from the east. Central Hamburg surrounds the Alster.m. you find tourist information (% 040/3005-1300) at the St.50) for children. Cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. and can book a hotel room for you for a 4€ ($5) fee.m. which lasts 2 hours and 30 minutes and includes towns along the Elbe River. The office is open daily from 8 a. Cost. The 90-minute Top Tour (www. the city’s commercial and shopping district. to 6 p. Pauli Reeperbahn district. is 30€ ($37). divide the Alster into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster) starts at 8 from May through October and includes a visit to the St. hamburg. run south from Binnenalster. the A7 from the north and south. Flanking the Binnenalster on the south is the Jungfernstieg. Two canals. 7€ ($9) for children up to 14. Daily tours on double-decker buses operated by Hamburger Stadtrundfahrten (% 040/641-3731) leave from the main train northwest of Aussenalster. Taking a bus tour A guided bus tour is the best way to get a feel for Hamburg and its various neighborhoods and special areas. Alsterfleet and Bleichenfleet. to 5 p. This office is open April through October daily from 8 a.m.m.-PauliLandungsbrücken between piers 4 and 5. A word to the wise: Park your car and use public transportation in this busy city. Kirchenallee entrance.Chapter 13: departs every 30 minutes from 9:30 a. November through March 10 a.m. Hamburg Stadt Rundfahrt (% 040/792-8979) offers the Elbe Tour. Bremen. lichter-tour. the Lombardsbrücke and the Kennedybrücke. is a tree-filled residential district with many fine 19th-century villas and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings.m. the A23 from the northwest. The three-hour “Lights of Hamburg” tour (www. double-decker buses depart Saturday and Sunday from April through October at 2 p. Pösseldorf. from the St. and Lübeck 179 By car The A1 Autobahn reaches Hamburg from the south and west. Tickets for all tours are available on the bus and all tours have live commentary in English. channeling water from the in the main train station near the main entrance. Hamburg’s most vital artery and shopping district. a lake rimmed by Hamburg’s most significant buildings. to 9 p. 6€ ($7. Finding information Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg operates the tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300.

The Altona neighborhood is a great place to explore or have dinner. Getting around Hamburg Hamburg is not a compact city and can’t be easily covered on foot.” earlier in this chapter).50) and rise 1. A tageskarte (day ticket) for unlimited use of public transportation costs 5. A-Bahn (commuter rail).50€ ($3) within Greater Hamburg. A single one-way fare for both U-Bahn and bus costs 2. A one-day card costs 7.25) for an adult and includes fare for up to three children traveling with an adult.75) for one adult and up to three children under 15. To see everything of interest. S-Bahn (light rail).90) per kilometer. a famous neon-lit boulevard with cafes. and lake cruises. is located northwest of the river. which takes place at dawn every Sunday. Taxi meters begin at 2€ ($2. and harbor ferries. The U-Bahn is the fastest means of getting around. buses.hvv. call % 040/441-011 or 040/666-666. discos.180 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Alster to the Elbe. Many of Hamburg’s finest hotels and restaurants cluster around the Binnenalster and the Rathaus (City Hall). com) operates the U-Bahn (subway). www. The Port (Hafen) of Hamburg. the world’s seventh-largest harbor. bisects St. You can buy the card at the tourist information offices (see “Finding information. Pauli. % 040/19449. The fare. the old sailor’s quarter that became the center of Hamburg nightlife.55€ ($1. but buses offer a good alternative and enable you to see more of the city. admission to 11 Hamburg museums. Taxis For a taxi. bars. The western district of Altona. A three-day card costs 17€ ($22) for one adult and up to three children. now integrated into Greater Hamburg. Pauli district. you have to depend on public transportation or taxis. south of Central Hamburg and the Alster.80€ ($7. guided tours of the port. Buy your ticket from the bus driver or from automatic vending machines at U-Bahn stations and bus stops. is the scene of Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market). . The HamburgCard is good for travel on all public transport. stretches for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River. The Reeperbahn. a short distance to the south. and discounts on city tours. and music halls.80€ ($9. sex shows. Hamburger Verkehrsverbund (HVV. The U-Bahn (subway) and buses Hamburg’s U-Bahn serves the entire central area and connects with the S-Bahn light-rail trains in the suburbs. The St. depends on how far you travel. formerly a city in its own right. which is the same for both U-Bahn and bus.

Wandsbek Markt brucke Hallerstr. Mön. Sierichstr. Bremen. Reeperbahn St. Altona Sternschanze Feidstraße Königstr. Messberg 181 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn S3 Neuwiedenthal . Rauhes Haus Markenstr. Sta. Christuskirche Lutterothstr. Bilstedt Steinfurther Allee Rothenburgsort Mümmelmannsberg U3 Tiefstack Veddel Bilwerder-Moorfleet Wilhelmsberg Lübecker Str. Baumwall Dammtor Step.Neumünster Ulzberg Süd Ulzburg Süd A2 Richtweg U1 Ohlstedt Lübeck Garstedt Ochsenzoll Hoisbüttel Buckhorn Langenhorn Nord Langenhorn Markt U2 Fuhlsbüttel Nord Hohenneichen Kornweg Berne Ohlsdorf Sengelmannstr. Legienstr. Langenfelde Osterstr. and Lübeck Bergedorf Buxtehude Stade Holstenstr. Barmbek Wandsbeck Ost Alter Teichweg Eppendorfer Baum Borgweg U3 Friedrichsberg HoheDehnhaide Straßburger Straße Klosterstern luttHamburger Str. Halstenbek Krupunder S21 Hagensbeck Tierpark Niendorf Markt Eidelstedt Ost Hagendeel Elbgaustraße A1 Eidelstedt Stellingen Wedel Rissen Iserbrook Emilienstr. Alsterdorf Lattenkamp U2 Alte Wöhr Habichtstr. Wandsbek-Gartenstedt Kellinghusenstr. Saarlandstr. Sülldorf Hochkamp Diebsteich Othmarschen S1 Blankenese Klein Flottbek Bahrenfeld S-Bahn U-Bahn Hudtwaickerstr. Trabrennbahn Rübenkamp Farmsen Rahlstedt Fuhlsbüttel Klein Borstel Meinendorfer Weg Wellingsbüttel S1 Poppenbüttel Buchenkamp Volksdorf Ahrensburg West Ahrensburg Ahrensburg Ost. Hasselbrook Ritterstr. Wartenau Lohmühlenstr. Landwehr Hammerkirche Horner Rennbahn Bergstr. Großhansdorf Schmalenbeck Kiekut Kiwittsmoor U1 Norderstedt Mitte A1 Hasioh Bönningstedt Elmshorn Niendorf Nord Schippelsweg Burgwedel S3 Pinneberg Schnelsen Thesdorf Joachim-Mähl-Str. Jungfernstieg Rödingsmarkt Rathaus Neugraben Heimfeld Harburg Rathaus Harburg Bremen Hanover Hammerbrook Hauptbahnhof Steinstr. Mundsburg Wandsbeker Chaussee Schlump Wandsbek Uhlandstr. Pauli Landungsbrücken Messehallen Gän. Berliner Tor Mittierer Landweg Allermöhe Netteinburg Wohltorf Reinbek Aumühle S21 Schwerin Berlin Single track section AKN Line DB Line Chapter 13: Hamburg.

Schmilinskystrasse 11. or 040/ 35050. wine bars. The 27 midsize rooms are minimalist in terms of décor but very comfortable and meticulously maintained. ABC Strasse 52. shops. offers rooms with panoramic views of the river and harbor. If you arrive without a room. The rooms vary . AE. originally built in the mid 19th century as a home for sailors. You will usually find special weekend rates and promotional offers on the hotel Web site. % 040/241-557. Fax: 040/3505-1777. plus an intimate.aussen-alster. 176. The well-done bathrooms have shower-tub Aussen Alster $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This small. See map p. stylish hotel in a late-19th-century building sits on a quiet residential street near the Aussenalster lake. which becomes Schmilinskystrasse). MC. a fashionable area filled with boutiques. the hotel features an array of business-oriented in-room amenities.” earlier in this chapter). especially in the center of the city. 176. The hotel can arrange baby-sitting. Pauli/Harbor area This Hamburg landmark. 20099 Hamburg. V. Hotel Hafen Hamburg $ –$$$ St. You find an onsite sauna and solarium. The building was restored and converted into a hotel in 1979. 20354 Hamburg. DC. MC. DC. The bathrooms are small with shower-tub combinations. See map p. traditionally styled hotel is near the Hanse Viertel. The hotel has a fitness center with pool and sauna and can arrange baby-sitting. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk south on ABC Strasse).marriott-hotels. well-regarded restaurant. Rates include buffet breakfast.182 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Staying in Hamburg Hamburg is an expensive city with plenty of first-class hotels and a limited number of budget accommodations. % 800/228-9290 in the U. Hamburg’s tourist information office in the main train station can help you find accommodations (see “Finding information. See Chapter 22 for details on the Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ($$$$).S. Geared toward business travelers. You also find hotel-booking desks at the airport. the Schmilinsky. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk east on Steindamm and west on Stiftstrasse. Fax: 040/2803231. www. Rates include breakfast. V. The 227 rooms are priced according to size and degree of luxury. www. Hamburg Marriott $$$$ Central Hamburg This large. Rates: 129€–155€ ($161–$194) double. AE. and today consists of three adjacent buildings with a total of 255 Rates: 199€–279€ ($248–$349) double. and restaurants.

The luxurious bathrooms have a tub-shower combination. the 178 good-sized rooms are quiet and comfortable. was built in 1995. Breakfast: 22€ ($27). % 040/ This full-service hotel has virtually every amenity you can imagine. MC. and Lübeck 183 in size. V. AE. www. MC. DC. the largest pool in Hamburg. Pension Helga Schmidt $ Central Hamburg This small. You won’t find anything fancy here. Breakfast: 13€ ($16). U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Dammtorstrasse and west on Drehbahn).-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (then a 7minute walk north through the small park outside the station to Seewartenstrasse).Chapter 13: Hamburg. MC. Bremen. % 040/3332-1234. www. Drehbahn 49. but most are large with updated modern 17-room pension sits right across the street from the superdeluxe Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg (Chapter 22) and costs a fraction of the price. Fax: 040/31113755. traditional.side-hamburg. glowing colors and contemporary furniture placed as carefully as sculptures. but staying here is definitely a memorable experience. Hotel Side takes high design to new heights. Seewartenstrasse 9. DC. U-/S-Bahn: St. others have showers . See map p. See map p. and a fine-dining restaurant called Apples (see “Dining in Hamburg. 176. 176. 176. 20095 Hamburg. A stark white and steel high-tech minimalism is offset by dramatic. But the double rooms are of a decent size and have an old-fashioned comfort of their own. Lots of wood and warm-toned fabrics adorn the 252 spacious rooms. the Hafen’s modern sister hotel. AE. Fax: 40/3099-9399. Amenities include a health club with pool. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). A terrace on the eighth floor opens onto panoramic views of Hamburg. 20459 Some rooms have private bathrooms with showers. The third and fourth floors are nonsmoking. 20354 Hamburg. See map p. The large bathrooms have a separate area for Japanese-style soaking tubs. The neighboring ship-shaped Hotel Residenz. all have wellequipped bathrooms with a shower-tub combination. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. DC. % 40/309-990. the Hyatt occupies a former trading house from 1912 that was transformed into a hotel in 1998. Fax: 40/ 3332-1235. Rates: 209€–310€ ($261–$387) double. Breakfast: 18€ ($22). Built around a central atrium. Park Hyatt Hamburg $$$$ Central Hamburg One of the most beautifully designed hotels in Hamburg. V. V. Hotel Side $$$$ Central Hamburg Opened in the spring of 2001. You may find a bit of attitude. Rates: 190€–265€ ($237–$295). Rates: 100€–200€ ($125–$250) double.” later in this chapter).

you may find grilled lobster. AE. MC. a local dessert specialty.m. and pickle — which is a hearty. In the morning. Pancakes (Pfannkuchen) with cranberries or other fruit toppings are popular. is a compote of red fruits served with vanilla ice cream or cream. and 6–11 p. Open: Daily 6:30 a. Rates include buffet breakfast. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. 176.wedina. sole. Rote Grütze. Apples Restaurant $$$ –$$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL Centered around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven.–2:30 p. and eel (Aalsuppe. which changes according to seasonal availability. Reservations required. fresh oysters. herring. % 040/280-83-90. Tuscan-style garden. DC. features fresh. you usually find lobster. The smallish bathrooms have a shower-tub combination. DC. Most of the 42 rooms open onto a small. On the menus of the city’s many fish restaurants. DC. Wedina $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This recently remodeled hotel is in three different buildings painted three different colors (red. Rates: 58€ ($72) double without bathroom.t-online. They range in size from small to medium and are individually decorated with modern furnishings. Fax: 040/280-3894. Come here for an elegant evening out. potatoes. See map p. 176. onions. or oven-roasted duck. Fresh specials of the day also are available. Traditional meat dishes include Stubenküchen (hamburger steak) and Labskaus — made with beer. www. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north on Holzdamm). you can enjoy breakfast in the privacy of your The menu. V. or eel soup. As a main course. % 040/280-8900. and to reach rooms on the third floor.m. AE. Dining in Hamburg It shouldn’t come as any surprise that most of Hamburg’s traditional cuisine comes from the sea. Main courses: 23€–31€ ($29–$39). organically grown produce. fixedprice menu 50€ ($62). and yellow). MC. plaice. protein-packed dish that sailors and dockworkers order. Fax: 040/243-705. you have to climb 55 steps. Rates: 108€–165€ ($135–$206) double.m. corned beef. See map p. is a famous Hamburg dish). turbot. The place is hip without being pretentious. . shrimp. In the Park Hyatt Hamburg. www. 20099 Hamburg. salmon. AE. The hotel doesn’t have an elevator.184 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany only and you share a 20099 Hamburg. V. % 040/33321234. Holzdamm 14. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). saddle of pork. blue. 176. Appetizers may include ostrich carpaccio or red curry soup. char-grilled turbot and peppers. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north along Koppel Strasse to Gurlittstrasse). V. Apples is the showcase restaurant of the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Rate includes breakfast. 68€ ($85) double with bathroom. Gurlittstrasse 23. See map p.

% 040/3904-606. cheese. Fischküche Karin Brahm $$ –$$$ Harbor area SEAFOOD This pleasant fish restaurant in a modern building has a bright dining room and outdoor tables. salmon.m. and the Cremonteller. so you can get a cappuccino with your afternoon Kuchen (cake).50€ ($6.50€–9€ ($4.. southern France. with a minimum of fuss. 176. 176. and the service is no-nonsense. Luncheon offerings usually include chicken and fish dishes plus daily specials and several different salads. You can eat on the balcony overlooking the shops or in the wood-paneled dining room. Typical offerings include goulash with noodles. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Mönckebergstrasse). Die Rösterei $ Central Hamburg LIGHT MEALS/BREAKFAST/DESSERTS Located in the shopping arcade attached to the Park Hyatt hotel. No credit cards. or afternoon coffee. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. Popular offerings include breast of duck with caramelized cherries. to midnight.m. this casual cafe is a good place to stop for breakfast.m. meat. Main courses: 8€–26€ ($10–$32).m. See map p. V. and Lübeck Cremon Weinkeller $ Harbor area NORTH GERMAN 185 If you want to eat lunch with the locals.m.m. a platter with crab. cold cuts. The cafe roasts its own coffee beans.–9 p.–9 p. 176. Eisenstein $$ –$$$ Altona INTERNATIONAL The menu in this hip Altona restaurant. % 040/3039-3735. No credit cards. . Mönckebergstrasse 7.50) per dish.40–$11). fixedprice lunch 14€ ($17). % 040/362-190. you can see the Nikolaifleet canal from the windows. MC. Main courses: 5€–7. Japan (including sushi and sashimi). U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 10-minute walk east on Kajen and north on Cremons). which becomes Friedensallee). and bread and butter. Sun 10 a. and croissants. and 6 p. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. jacket potatoes with sour cream and crab or other fillings. Breakfast: 3.Chapter 13: Hamburg. you can order eggs. The food is robust.m. Friedensallee 9. Open: Daily noon to 3 p.m. Main courses: 9€–12€ ($11–15). For breakfast. housed in a former tram station. Bremen. particularly fresh Atlantic fish. a cold buffet is available in the evening. this barrestaurant is a good place to try.–10 p. includes specialties from Thailand. fixed-price dinner 26€ ($32). See map p. Cremon 33–34. See map p. homemade pastas. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and northwest on Bahrenstrasse. a light lunch. The restaurant serves four or five hot dishes of fish and meat buffet-style at lunchtime.25–$9. From the below-street-level location. sausages. and saltimbocca. and fresh. and Italy. traditional versions of North German cuisine. Reservations recommended.

Sat 6 p. Kajen 12. AE. an international mix of French. you may try the avocado salad with herring or some crostini. 176. changes daily. Don’t bother with appetizers. step up to the herring buffet featuring many different condiments and sauces. depending on the catch of the day. Neuer Wall 31 (in the Neuen Alsterarkaden). too. Ratsweinkeller Hamburg $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg HAMBURG/INTERNATIONAL In business since 1896. AE. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk across Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz). MC. UBahn: Jungfernstieg (then a 5-minute walk north along Neuer Wall to Schleuseenbrücke). % 040/3750-3434. the Ratsweinkeller Hamburg has high. And the outside tables are great for people-watching. MC. AE.m.–2 a. For starters. Most of the young wait staff speak English. See map p. you can choose from other dishes such as chicken breast in a green rice crust or turkey curry. Sun 5:30 p. Reservations recommended. Italian and modern German. MC. Main courses: 11€–15€ ($14–$18). (Indoor dining is available yearround. See map p.–2 a. V. wood-paneled columns. herring filets on black bread with onions. the fresh sole.m. See map p. but on a nice day nab a table outside).. % 040/326-519. Le Paquebot $$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL In warm weather. Reservations recommended.m.m. vaulted ceilings. I like it because you can order something as simple as a salad but they also have good daily specials. Or. 176. to midnight.m. flounder with spaghetti and lemon-butter sauce.186 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The menu changes all the time. DC. this cafe/bistro/bar is a chic but casual spot to stop for lunch or an early dinner (you can eat inside. you can sit outside on the square and enjoy a good meal at this quietly stylish restaurant and bar. V. or the Hamburg crab soup. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. Try the halibut steak in curry sauce. the main courses are more than enough. . or codfish with potatoes and onion. 176. Open: Daily 8 a. See map p. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 70. a mixed fish platter. Grosse Johannisstrasse 2.–6 p. 176. Main courses typically include pasta offerings such as tagliatelle with ragout. and breast of chicken with basil and mushrooms. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 3-minute walk west to Kajen). % 040/364-153.) The menu. If you don’t like fish. and large stained-glass windows. Open: Mon–Fri noon to midnight. V.m. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Choices may include different kinds of clear or creamy fish soup.m. Main courses: 17€–25€ ($21–$31). U-Bahn: Rathaus (then a 3-minute walk south on Grosse Johannisstrasse). zander filet with creamy sauerkraut. Melange $ –$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL With tables tucked along the canal under the fancy shopping arcade that lines the Alsterfleet canal (across from the Rathaus). % 040/365-631.

m. 176.–1 a. and canoes ply the waters of this lake that forms the watery heart of central Hamburg. and panoramic views of the Hamburg skyline. and German cuisine.m. Damming the meandering Alster River created the lake in 1235.m. one of the largest in the world.m. Hamburg is not a city with many world-class cultural attractions. V. Italian. Sightseeing usually centers on the giant harbor and picturesque Alster Lake. and the Aussenalster. See map p.m. reasonably priced restaurant is across from Eisenstein (see the listing earlier in this section) in the popular Altona area. 176. inner lake with canals running south to the Elbe. Alster Lake Sailboats. excursion ferries. which becomes Friedensallee). % 040/397-004. flower gardens. The Alster consists of the Binnenalster. which covers 175 acres on the northwest banks. rabbit with sweet-and-sour sauce. scampi. a larger body of water ringed by fine villas. Its official history dates back to 1189. features beautiful trees. Hafen (Harbor) Hamburg is probably most famous for its busy harbor. when the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa issued an edict granting free-trading privileges to Hamburg. fireworks. windsurfers.m. Voltaire also has a good wine list and live jazz on most evenings. Walking paths and parkland surround the 7km (4 miles) of shoreline. DC. Bremen. You also find many different salad choices.–4 p. wild duck with plum sauce. fixed-price menus 30€–45€ ($37–$56). Closed holidays. Voltaire Bistro $$ Altona INTERNATIONAL This pleasant. . The menu borrows from French. Sun 11 a.. The dining room is a high-ceilinged brick-walled room with big windows and a bistrolike atmosphere. Friedensalle 14–16. Exploring Hamburg Surprisingly enough. Main courses: 9€–14€ ($11–$17). U-Bahn: Hallerstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Hallerstrasse to the park). Alsterpark. Meat and fish dishes typically include entrecôte (boned rib steak) with mustard sauce. MC. AE. and hundreds of booths. No credit cards. See map p. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and north on Bahrenstrasse. a smaller.Chapter 13: Hamburg. and Lübeck 187 Main courses: 11€–31€ ($14–$39). Open: Daily 6 p.–10:30 p. and herring. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. including a windjammer parade. with coq au vin and spaghetti with mushroom sauce available every day. The city still commemorates the event every year in early May with three days of huge harborside celebrations.

188 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Seeing the Alster by boat You can tour both inner (Binnen) and outer (Ausser) Alster by boat.. This former East Indies windjammer is open daily from 10 a.abicht.50€ ($ 3. to 5:30 p. Rubens.m. The cost for the tour is 10€ ($13) for adults and 5€ ($6.m. from November through March. now a museum of maritime history.75) for adults. in which the North Sea tides influence the water level of the Elbe River. Excursion boats operated by Rainer Abicht (% 040/3178220. 6€ ($7. to 6 p.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (the harbor is right across the street). and Paul Klee are found in the Klassische Moderne (Modern Art) rooms. you find works by Meister Bertram. ATG-AlsterTouristik. The harbor is an open tidal port. including works by Philipp Otto Runge and Caspar David Friedrich. Tourist activity centers around the St.m. and 1:30 and 3 p. noon. Piers 1 through 9. Ernst Kirchner. In the Alte Meister (Old Masters) galleries. floating landing stage where you can embark on boat tours of the harbor.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken. to 4 p. Just southeast of Hamburg. Tours depart from April through October daily every hour from 10 a.25) for children younger than 16. tours depart daily at 10:30 a. from November through March. 2. a long.10) for children ages 4 to 12. where the Elbe splits into two arms. Allow yourself at least two hours to see everything on view. See map p.alstertouristik.m.m.m. there is a giant network of quays. www. offers daily 50-minute trips that depart about every half-hour. and drydocks. The ships leave from the Jungfernstieg quayside (U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg).and early-20th-century artists Edvard Munch. Claude Lorrain. Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum) Northern Germany’s leading art museum displays works in four different areas. Dazzling works by late-19th. Emil Nolde.m. from 10 a. 176. The 19th Century galleries display an outstanding collection of German Romantic paintings.m. The 75-minute trip costs 10€ ($13) for adults. Docked just east of the landing stage at Pier 1 is the Rickmer Rickmers (% 040/319-5959). to 6 p. April through October. Max Beckmann. Saturday and Sunday only from 10:30 a. The same company offers boat tours of Hamburg’s canals and along the Elbe. a 19th-century clipper ship. warehouses. A brochure and cassettes with a description of the tour in English are available at no additional cost. Am Anleger Jungfernstieg (% 040/357-4240. www.. The Galerie der Gegenwart (Contemporary At Gallery) displays art created since leave from St.m. de).50) for children. .. The best way to see the port and all its activity is by taking a guided harbor tour. U-Bahn: St. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. and Canaletto.m.

). the city’s largest canal. See map p. Bremen. To use the service.m.–3:15 p. Rathaus (Town Hall) Hamburg’s Rathaus.m. 176 Holstenwall 24. Guides conduct free tours of the Börse on Tuesday and Thursday at 11 a.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Rathausplatz.m. You can combine a visit to the Rathaus with a stop at the 16th-century Börse (Stock Exchange). % 040/428-131-200.m. across the canal. free for children under 18. and noon.50) adults.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (exit at Hauptbahnhof Nord. On record are hundreds of thousands of emigrants’ names including the names of the cities and towns in which they originated. and Lübeck 189 See map p.50€ ($11) adults.50€ ($9. The Alsterarkaden. % 040/4281-32-2380. www. Adolphsplatz 1 (% 040/3613020).de. 0.hamburgmuseum. 176. built in the late 19th century on a foundation of oak pilings. 176.–1:15 is an arched passageway with upscale clothing shops. U-Bahn: St. Give yourself about an hour to browse through the exhibits.m. Fri–Sun hourly 10:15 a. www. then a 2minute walk north on An der Kunsthalle). Sun 10 a.m.m. Glockengiesserwall 1.–6 p.) clock tower overlooks Rathausmarkt and the Alsterfleet. Admission: Rathaus tour 1€ ($1. Tracing your German ancestry The Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (see the listing above) is especially worth a visit if you have German ancestors and want to do genealogical research. See map p. (Thurs until 9 p. and boutiques. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.25) children. The Rathaus’s 49m-tall (160-ft. Open: Tues–Sat 10 a. .hamburgerkunsthalle. you need to bring records with you that indicate the approximate date that your ancestors left Germany. You can visit the interior of this Renaissance-style structure with its 647 rooms on a guided tour.m.25) adults. jewelry stores. 5€ ($6. is the largest of the old buildings in the Altstadt.–5 p. Scale models show the changing face of the port. The museum’s office of historical emigration contains passenger lists of all the people who shipped out of Hamburg from the 1850s to about 1930.–6 p. which stands back to back with the Rathaus. Tours of the Rathaus and the Börse last about 30 to 45 minutes. Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (Hamburg History Museum) This museum provides a portrait of Hamburg from the 8th through 20th centuries.. % 040/4283-12063. Tours (in English): Mon–Thurs hourly 10:15 a. Admission: 7. Admission: 8. U-Bahn: Rathaus.m.50 (65¢) children. and reconstructed period rooms — from the hall of a 17th-century merchant’s house to an air-raid shelter from WWII — illustrate the different eras in Hamburg’s history. Pauli (then a 2-minute walk east across Millentordamm)..m.m.

hagenbeck. to noon. elephant and camel rides. (until 4:30 p. James’s is one of only two surviving Schnitger organs in Germany. Jakobikirchhof 22.m. in addition to one of Hamburg’s musical treasures. Michaeliskirchplatz. contains the tomb of composer Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach. Jacobikirche.500 animals. the rest of the year. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. See map p. Oct–Mar 10 a.–5 p. Besides fish.10) adults. % 040/540-0010. St.m. Admission: Church free.m. Jacobikirche (St. and a spacious children’s playground. The famous Hamburg Fischmarkt The Hamburg Fischmarkt (fish market).m. Hamburg’s last remaining 17th-century brick-and-timber almshouses. See map p. Open: Daily 9 a.190 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany St. 1.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken). James’s Church) WWII bombings almost completely destroyed the 13th-century Gothic St. The nearby taverns are open to serve Fischmarkt visitors and vendors. a train ride through a fairyland. a baroque organ built in 1693 by Arp Schnitger. plants. www. . Michaelis (St. The 60-register organ at St. Michael’s Church) Constructed of brick. Hamburg’s zoo is home to about 2. Admission: Free.50€ ($3. Give yourself about 15 minutes to visit the church and tower. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke (then a 10-minute walk west on Michaelisstrasse).m. fruit.m.. and sculptures. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Jakobikirchhof). between Hexenberg and Grosse Elbstrasse (U-Bahn: St. is one of the finest baroque churches in northern Germany. one of the largest in Europe. % 040/3767-8100. pictures. is a famous Hamburg landmark and the principal reason to visit. in summer or from 7 a. completed in 1762. The rebuilt church contains several medieval altars.50€ ($11) children ages 4 to 16. Admission: 15€ ($18) adults. with its hammered-copper roof. vegetables. children younger than 3 free.–5 p. 8.–5 p.m. Michael’s. Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Founded in 1848. St..m. 176.m. % 040/327-744. Sun 10 a. and pets at this traditional market.–6 p. a master craftsman whose instruments were played by Johann Sebastian Bach. See map p. takes place every Sunday from 5 a. de. 176.m.m. like so many other buildings in Hamburg. Open: Daily Apr–Sept 9 a. The crypt.m. This zoo in the northwest suburbs offers sea-lion and dolphin shows.25€ ($1. in existence since 1703. The tower. to closing. entrance on Steinstrasse. 176. A restaurant serves fixed-price meals for 9. Take the elevator or climb the 449 steps to enjoy the sweeping view from the top. Hagenbeckallee at Steilingen. Krayenkamp 4C. which have been made into art galleries. tower 2. you can buy flowers. U-Bahn: Hagenbeck’s Tierpark.m. One block to the south of the church are the Krameramtswohnungen.60) children. in winter).50€ to 14€ ($ 12–$ 17) from 11:30 a.

flowering plants. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse). restaurants. including a rollerskating rink. at tourist offices. on Thursday) and on Saturday from 9 a. south of Planten and Blomen. These streets contain some of the city’s less expensive stores. one of the world’s leading opera houses. S-Bahn: Dammtor). Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 48. and newsstands. hotels. to 2 p. miniature trees. or any kind of local specialty or handicraft.m. and Lübeck Wallringpark 191 Four beautifully maintained parks and gardens comprise this greenbelt area west of the Altstadt and Alster Lake. You can buy tickets at venue box offices. Planten und Blomen (Plants and Flowers). or through the service Theaterkasse Central. U-Bahn: Dammtor (the station is at the southeastern corner of the park). Dammtorstrasse 28 (% 040/35-68-68. Grosse Bleichen and Neuer Wall. is known for its rare plant specimens and greenhouses filled with tropical Shopping in Hamburg Hamburg is a big shopping city.hamburgische-staatsoper. Jungfernstieg 22 (% 040/359-011). The Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden). Alsterhaus. Mönckebergstrasse 16 (% 040/30940). is part of a departmentstore chain that carries many of the same brands and items as the other leading department stores. two major shopping streets fan out in a southwesterly direction toward the Rathaus: the pedestrian-only Spitalerstrasse and Mönckebergstrasse. which offers better deals on merchandise markdowns.m. www. and an ice-skating rink in winter. Two of the city’s oldest and most prestigious shopping streets. Bremen. Karstadt. Living it up after dark in Hamburg To find out what’s happening in Hamburg. Stores are generally open Monday through Friday from 9 a. Less expensive is Kaufhof. with rock gardens. A miniature railway connects all four parks. is the home of the . laid out in 1936. From the Hauptbahnhof. Landesbank-Galerie (% 040/337-124.m. Admission: Free. (some until 8 p.m. carries more-fashionable merchandise. on langer Samstag. (until 4 or 6 p. The Kleine (small) and Grosse (large) Wallanlagen parks contain many recreational facilities. available at tourist offices. playgrounds. 176. The performing arts Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). connected transversely by Jungfernstieg and Ufer Strasse on the Binnenalster. the first Sat of the month). contains the largest Japanese garden in Europe. Mönckebergstrasse 3 (% 040/333-070). pick up a copy of the monthly Hamburger Vorschau. but don’t expect to find many bargains. See map p. to 6:30 p.m.m.Chapter 13: Hamburg. and winding pathways. run parallel to the canals.

The 30-year-olds. and live-music venues: ߜ After Shave.m. The club is open from 11 p.m. Ticket prices vary from program to program. Lerchenfeld 14 (% 040/227-7089. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). If someone catches your fancy. in addition to performances by choirs. The hall is open daily from 7 p. the only English-speaking theater in the northern part of Germany. Friday. U-Bahn: Mundsburg).m.m. Cover is 5€ to 9€ ($6. . Grosse Freiheit 36 (% 040/317-7711. with meals ranging from 5€ to 15€ ($6. is one of the hottest dance clubs in Hamburg. but you need to understand German to enjoy the productions. Today this cultural institution is a free-for-all venue with acts that change nightly. nightclubs. it’s also open Sunday from 11 a.S.m. dance clubs. Reeperbahn 10 (% 040/314-281. U-Bahn: Messehallen). and fusion. ߜ Bayrisch Zell. The club. Saturday. a giant beer hall. jazz. and music scenes Hamburg is famous for its Ticket prices range from 5€ to 146€ ($6. attracting singles and couples young and old. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). Thursday. to midnight.m.m. beer halls. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). and the NDR Symphony.50–$17). features jazz and Dixieland bands from throughout Europe and the U.25–$31). Spielbudenplatz 5 (% 040/31-08-45. Cover is 2€ to 14€ ($2.75–$31). Johannes-Brahms-Platz (% 040/35-68-68. too. bar. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn).m. ߜ Club Grosse Freiheit.25–$182). soul. Wednesday and Sunday and at 11 p. especially if you’re into funk. The food is okay. Alter Steinweg 10 (% 040/343-878. Cover charge is 4€ to 15€ ($5–$19).192 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg State Opera and the Hamburg Ballet. to 5 a. the Hamburg Philharmonic. One exception is the English Theatre of Hamburg.m. depending on the band.englishtheatre. Pauli district. The following list gives a small sampling of bars. The club is open year-round Monday through Saturday from 8 p. features funk. ߜ Cotton Club. plays host to concerts by the Hamburg Symphony.m. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke). The ticket office is at Grosstheaterstrasse 34.m. and guest artists. Spielbudenplatz 7 (% 040/319-3215. and to 6 a. Pauli. to 3 p. from September to April. The club opens at 9 p.25–$11). Hamburg has dozens of theaters. is where The Beatles performed in their earliest days. to 4 a. www. is one of the most popular places in the St.25–$19). Cover is 5€ to 25€ ($6. chamber orchestras. the oldest and best established of the Hamburg jazz clubs. in St. free admission for women Friday and Saturday after midnight. to 3 a. Thursday to Sunday and has no set closing time. a dance club for 20. Tickets range from 7€ to 25€ ($8. ߜ Molotow. you can call him or her from the phone on your table.

bars. lists the city’s many gay and lesbian clubs. Nobistor 10A (% 040/3178-4126). inside erotic theaters. St. and events. Pauli. had become a hangout for sailors and prostitutes. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). Gay and lesbian clubs Hamburg.. and cafes along Lange Reihe just northeast of the train station (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). The area is not exclusively devoted to sex. a street whose name appropriately translates as “Great Freedom. restaurants. cost is 20€ ($25) per person. The place where it all hangs out is the St. Please note that women are not welcome on Herbertstrasse. and restaurants (although I don’’t recommend dining in this area). and Lübeck 193 St. Pauli is a place to visit at night. The free magazine Dorn Rosa. the museum presents its displays and changing exhibits in a way that’s both academic and titillating. Historical Whores Tours (% 01805/125-225. Bremen. Grosse Freiheit.” is known for its erotic theaters.hurentours. and may even be doused with a bucket of water if they enter. the 90-minute walking tour takes you to various places around the harbor and tells the whore’s side of the story. cabarets. You must reserve in advance. Pauli’s streets. and the women display themselves behind plate-glass windows.m. Pauli district. which is close to Hamburg’s great harbor. Friday and Saturday from 10 a. The district also contains the Erotic Art Museum. just west of the center. Many of the prostitutes who work there today are licensed and must submit to a medical examination every two weeks. By the mid-1800s. St. who set up shop with the legal sanction of municipal authorities. is one of the major gay centers of Europe. Between midnight and 5 a. Led by a professional guide dressed as a 19th-century Hamburg prostitute (the costume is not what you’d call sexy). The name literally translates as “Rope Street” and refers to the nautical rope produced there during the 18th and 19th centuries. www. distributed at most gay and lesbian bars. bars. The district’s sexrelated bars and theaters are up and running by 8 p. discos. along a half-mile thoroughfare called the Reeperbahn (pronounced ray-per-bahn. Pauli and the Reeperbahn: For adults only Commercialized sex is a major tourist attraction in Hamburg. The museum is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a. Herbertstrasse is open only to men older than 18. The most famous street besides the Reeperbahn itself is offers one of the world’s more unusual walking tours. like Berlin. at the corner of Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit. to midnight. .m..Chapter 13: Hamburg. metal gates block each end of the street. or overt solicitation. Municipal regulations forbid prostitution.m. admission is 8€ ($10). which includes a glass of schnapps at tour’s end. bars. and you do find all kinds of theaters (mostly for musicals and comedies). called Hafen und Huren (Harbors and Whores). to 2 a. Open to those older than 16.m. with a dense concentration of gay shops. where bordellos line both sides of the street.m. thousands of “working girls” strut their stuff along the Reeperbahn and through St.

194 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
A Side Trip: Bremen
Bremen, 120km (75 miles) southwest of Hamburg, has a history that dates back some 1,200 years. (See the “Bremen” map in this chapter.) Located on the Weser River, which flows to the North Sea, it already was a significant port when it was made an Episcopal see in 787. During the Middle Ages, Bremen was one of the strongest members of the Hanseatic League, and in 1646, it became a Free Imperial City. Silting of the Weser led to the establishment of Bremerhaven, Bremen’s deepwater port at the mouth of the Weser, in 1827. With a population of about half a million people, Bremen is the second-most important foreign trade location in the Federal Republic, after Hamburg. Although it’s mostly an industrial city that was badly damaged in WWII, enough remains in old Bremen to make for an intriguing daytrip from Hamburg.

Getting to Bremen
By train, the trip time from Hamburg is less than an hour. For train information and schedules, call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). If you’re driving, Bremen is a major junction on the A1 Autobahn between Hamburg and the Rhineland. Bremen Flughafen (Airport; % 0421/55-950) has flights from major cities in Germany and Europe.

Finding information and taking a tour
Bremer-Touristik-Zentrale (% 01805/10-10-30; www.bremen-tourism. de) operates tourist information offices at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station; open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat–Sun 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.). A second branch at Obernstrasse/Liebfrauenkirchhof also is open Monday to Friday 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. If you decide to stay overnight in Bremen, this office will help you find a hotel or pension. Guided bus tours, conducted in German and English, depart Tuesday through Sunday year-round at 10:30 a.m. from the Central Coach Station (Rank M) just behind the tourist information office at the main train station. The tour lasts two hours and costs 15€ ($19) for adults and 9.50€ ($12) for children younger than 13. Guided walking tours, with Englishspeaking guides, depart daily at 2 p.m. from mid-May to early October, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. in January and February, from the tourist information office at the main train station. They last two hours, and cost 6.50€ ($8), free for children younger than 13. Buy your tickets at the tourist office.

Dining in Bremen
The Ratskeller below Bremen’s Rathaus, Am Markt (% 0421/32-16-76), is a wonderfully atmospheric place to try North German regional specialties such as Bremer Festtagsuppe (a beef consommé with meatballs, noodles, and vegetables), Bremer Fischtopf (diced salmon, haddock, and red snapper in a vegetable stock), herring with sour cream and roasted

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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potatoes, and Flammkuchen, a pizzalike dish with mushrooms, herbs, and cheese. This is also a good place to try a Probierportion (sample portion) of Labkaus, a delicious corned-beef hash mixed with pickled herring, topped with a fried egg, and served with dill pickles and beets. The adjoining restaurant, Vor dem Bacchus, serves fresh fish. Main courses go for 10€ to 22€ ($13–$27). The restaurants are open daily from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. See map above.




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196 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Exploring Bremen
Bremen’s main sights are in the Altstadt, clustered around Marktplatz (Market Square), the center of Bremen life for more than a millennium. Most of the compact oval Altstadt, with the Weser River along the south side and the Stadtgraben canal on the north, is a pedestrian zone and can easily be explored on foot. Recent restoration work has brightened up the center and its many historic buildings. From Bahnhofsplatz in front of the train station, head south to Herdentor and the bridge that crosses the Stadtgraben canal. To your right, in the Wallanlagen, the pretty parkland along the canal (formerly the city wall stood here), you’ll see a large Dutch-style windmill. At one time, more than a dozen windmills operated in this area. At the beginning of Sögestrasse (Sow Street), a bronze swineherd and a herd of bronze sows and piglets commemorates the street where medieval butchers kept their pigs. A short walk south brings you to the Marktplatz, where a 15th-century sandstone statue of Knight Roland, the city’s protector, stands guard beside the Rathaus. Bremen’s impressive three-story Rathaus (Town Hall; % 0421/36-10) has been standing on the Marktplatz for 600 years and was untouched by the bombing raids of WWII. The main Gothic structure was built in 1405, but in 1612 the upper section of the facade was redone in what is known as Weser Renaissance style. (Weser Renaissance, a term applied to architecture created in and around the Weser River valley between 1520 and 1620, is characterized by ornate decoration on classically proportioned buildings.) Inside, the upper hall with its beautifully carved early-17thcentury oak staircase and mural of The Judgment of Solomon (1537), was used as council chamber and courtroom. You can visit the Rathaus on 45minute guided tours Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m., noon, 3 and 4 p.m., and on Sunday at 11 a.m. and noon. Admission is 4€ ($5) adults, 2€ ($2.50) children and students. You can dine in the historic Ratskeller beneath the building (see “Dining in Bremen,” earlier in this section). Walk around to the west end of the Rathaus to see Bremen’s most famous characters, the Bremen Town Musicians from the Grimm’s fairy tale of the same name. Local artist Gerhard Marcks created the bronze sculpture of a donkey, dog, cat, and cock in 1951.

Chocolate lovers take note
Hachez, a famous Bremen chocolatier founded in 1890, occupies a charming 18thcentury patrician house near the Rathaus. The shop, Stoevesandt-Diele, Am Markt 1 (% 0421/50-90-00), is a chocolate-lover’s emporium where you can find sweet specialties such as chocolate champagne truffles.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


Bells are ringing on Böttcher Street
Böttcherstrasse, running from Marktplatz to the Weser River, is one of the most architecturally intriguing streets in Germany and one of Bremen’s most noteworthy attractions. Ludwig Roselius, a rich Bremen merchant who invented decaffeinated coffee, paid for the construction of the redbrick buildings that line the street, which was dedicated in 1926 and rebuilt after World War II. Part of the narrow brick-paved street was built in an avant-garde German expressionist style; the other part was meant to look more traditionally medieval. The street is lined with shops, crafts workshops, restaurants, two museums, and galleries. Time your visit to hear the carillon of bells made of Meissen porcelain. Every hour between noon and 6 p.m. (Jan–Apr at noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m.), they play a tune for a full 15 minutes as a sequence of woodcarved panels in a revolving tower tells the story of transatlantic aviators.

Directly opposite the Rathaus stands the Schütting, a 16th-century guild hall today used by the chamber of commerce (not open to the public). Adding a modern architectural touch to the ancient square is the Haus der Bürgerschaft, constructed in 1966 and home of Bremen’s Parliament. Free 20-minute tours of the building are given Monday to Friday at 2 p.m. At the southeast end of the Marktplatz, towering majestically over the entire Altstadt, is St. Petri-Dom (St. Peter’s Cathedral), Sandstrasse 10–12 (% 0421/36-50-40), originally constructed in 1043 as the archbishop’s church and rebuilt in the 16th and 19th centuries. Other than the 12thcentury bronze baptismal font in one of the Romanesque crypts there is not much of exceptional interest within the cathedral, which is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday 2 to 5 p.m. From Easter through October you can climb to the top of the cathedral towers for a panoramic view of the Altstadt. The Dom Museum (Cathedral Museum; % 0421/365-04-41) displays artifacts discovered during a restoration of the cathedral in the early 1970s, including vestments found in archbishops’ graves and 15th-century wall paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder. More interesting than the museum is the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), reached by going outside and around to the side of the cathedral. It contains a bizarre collection of mummified corpses — 16th- and 17th-century lords, ladies, students, and soldiers, plus a cat and a monkey — whose leathery bodies were found in graves beneath and around the cathedral. Admission for the cathedral museum and the Lead Cellar is 1.50€ ($2) for adults, 1€ ($1.25) for students and children; both are open the same hours as the cathedral, but the Lead Cellar is closed November to Easter. The Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum, Böttcherstrasse 6–10 (% 0421/ 336-5077), is dedicated to Bremen’s outstanding painter (1876–1907) and contains many of her best works, including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

198 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Admission is 5€ ($6.25) for adults and 3€ ($3.75) for children. With the same ticket, you can visit the nearby Museum im Roselius Haus (same address, phone, and hours), a 16th-century merchant’s home filled with Ludwig Roselius’s collection of medieval art and furniture. Böttcherstrasse leads to the Schlachte embankment along the Weser River. The riverside promenade is lined with taverns and restaurants and is the locale of the Weserflohmarkt (Weser Flea Market), open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Schlachte embankment also is where you find guided boat trips (in German only) around the harbor. Boats depart from the landing in front of the Martinikirche (St. Martin’s Church) every day from April through October at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. on a voyage that lasts about 75 minutes. The cost is 8.50€ ($11) for adults and 4.50€ ($5.50) for children. A five-minute walk southeast from the Schlachte brings you to the charming albeit touristy Schnoor district, Bremen’s oldest surviving quarter. The 16th- and 17th-century cottages in the Schnoor once were the homes of simple fishermen. In an effort to revive old arts and crafts, they’re now rented to artists and artisans. Sightseers visit not only for the atmosphere but also for the unusual restaurants, shops, and art galleries.

Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own
Seven Gothic church spires rise above the picturesque town of Lübeck, located 66km (41 miles) northeast of Hamburg in the state of SchleswigHolstein. (See the “Lübeck” map in this chapter.) Along the ancient streets of its Altstadt, you find more buildings from the 13th to the 15th centuries than in any other city in northern Germany. Most of the buildings, including the churches, are fine examples of the redbrick architecture so characteristic of northern Germany. The city’s architectural heritage is so rich that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) placed Lübeck on its World Heritage list of international monuments. UNESCO bestows World Heritage status to places judged to have exceptional cultural and historic value. From the 13th century on, Lübeck was capital of the Hanseatic League, the powerful association of merchants that controlled trade along the Baltic as far as Russia. The town still retains the name Hansestadt Lübeck. Lübeck makes a rewarding daytrip from Hamburg, less than an hour away by train, but its charms may beguile you to stay overnight. With its enormous churches, high-gabled houses, massive gates, and historic buildings at every turn, Lübeck is a delightful city to explore.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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200 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Lübeck’s Nobel sons
Lübeck has had several famous sons, notably Thomas Mann and Willy Brandt. As a young man, Brandt (1913–1992), who later became West German chancellor and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971, opposed the Nazis so vehemently that he had to flee on a boat to Norway. The Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck at 21 Königstrasse is in the process of being restored and is expected to open in 2007. The writer Thomas Mann (1875– 1955) used his hometown of Lübeck as the setting for his novel Buddenbrooks, which catapulted the 27-year-old author to international fame in 1902. In 1929, Mann won the Nobel Prize for literature. The Buddenbrookhaus (described in “Walking through Lübeck,” in this chapter), which belonged to Mann’s grandparents, is a place of literary pilgrimage for fans of Mann. Günter Grass, author of The Tin Drum, won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1999. Although he was not born in Lübeck, he lives nearby. The relationship between Grass’s literary output and his artwork is explored in the permanent exhibits at the Günther Grass House, Glockengiesserstrasse 21 (% 0451/1224231;, which opened in 2002. Here you can see some of Grass’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures. Grass unleashed a torrent of criticism in 2006 when he revealed, in advance of the publication of his autobiography, that he had served in the Nazi Waffen SS at age 17; some critics suggested the Nobel Prize committee should revoke Grass’s prize. The museum is open daily April through October from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., November through March 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults, 2.20€ ($2.75) students and children.

Getting there
By train, you can reach Lübeck from anywhere in Germany or Europe. Dozens of trains arrive daily from Hamburg, only 40 minutes away. For train schedules and information, call German Rail (% 11861) or visit their Web site ( By boat, you can take a passenger or car ferry service between Denmark (the port of Rødbyhaven) and Lübeck (the port of Puttgarden). ScandLines (% 04371/865-161; offers daily departures. TT Saga Line (% 04502/80181; operates between the German port of Travemünde and the Swedish port of Trelleborg. By car, you can reach Lübeck via the A1 Autobahn north and south.

Finding information and taking a walking tour
In the train station, Touristinformation Hauptbahnhof (% 0451/864675) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m. The Lübeck und Travemünde Tourist Service Welcome Center, Holstentorplatz 1 (% 01805/882-233; 0.12€/15¢ per minute;, across from the Holstentor Museum, is open January through May and October through November, Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


3 p.m.; June through September and December, hours are Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. This office can help you with hotel reservations. Two-hour walking tours (6€/$7.50) of the historic city depart from the Holstentor tourist office Monday through Saturday at 2 p.m. (additional walks at 11 a.m. July–Sept) and on Sundays year-round at 11 a.m.

Orienting yourself
The Trave and Wakenitz rivers and other waterways encircle Lübeck’s Altstadt, an oval-shaped island a little more than a mile long and less than a mile wide. Eight bridges connect the old town with greater Lübeck on the mainland. Only about 12,000 residents (out of about 225,000) live on the island, which is where all the major attractions are located.

Getting around Lübeck
The Altstadt and all the major attractions can be reached on foot from the train station. You also can take buses 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, or 16 from the train station into the Altstadt. The fare is 2€ ($2.50). A fun and relaxing way to see Lübeck is by water. Excursion boats operated by MAAK-Linie (% 0451/706-3859; leave from docks on the Trave River just north of the Holstentor. In summer, departures are hourly between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (11 a.m.–4 p.m. the rest of the year). The trip (commentary in German with English text available) lasts one hour and encircles the entire Altstadt. Cost is 7€ ($8.75) for adults, 5.50€ ($7) for seniors, and 3€ ($3.75) for children.

Staying in Lübeck
Lübeck offers a full range of hotel options, from small inns and pensions to modern facilities. To enjoy the ancient, atmospheric charms of Lübeck, I recommend that you choose a hotel in the Altstadt. The Lübeck and Travemünde Tourist Service (see “Finding information and taking a walking tour” earlier in this chapter) also can help you find a room.

Special events in Lübeck
The Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival, one of the best music festivals in Germany, occurs in Lübeck (which has a famed music school) with performances from early July until the end of August every year. For more information, call % 0800/7463-2002 or log on to A popular Christmas market featuring handmade wares from all across northwestern Germany takes place during the three weeks preceding Christmas.

202 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Klassik Altstadt Hotel
$ –$$ Altstadt
If you want to stay in a smaller, older hotel in the Altstadt, Klassik Altstadt Hotel is a good choice. The 28 individually decorated rooms, all named for famous Lübeckers, have a pleasant, traditional style. Most of the bathrooms have showers; a few have tubs. The on-site restaurant is good and moderately priced. See map p. 199. Fischergrube 52, 23552 Lübeck. % 0451/702980. Fax: 0451/73778. Rates: 77€–130€ ($96–$162) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

Radisson SAS Senator Hotel Lübeck
$$$ Altstadt
If you want a modern, full-service hotel, the Radisson is the best place to stay. A pedestrian bridge connects the hotel from its riverside location to the Altstadt. The 231 medium-sized rooms are attractively furnished. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Amenities include an on-site health club with pool, sauna, and steam rooms, and a computer in the lobby that enables you to check your e-mail. Children up to age 12 stay for free in their parents’ room. See map p. 199. Willy-Brandt-Allee 6, 23554 Lübeck. % 800/333-3333 in the U.S. or 0451/1420. Fax: 0451/142-2222. Rates: 160€ ($200). AE, MC, V.

Dining in Lübeck
As you may have guessed, fresh seafood from the North and Baltic seas is featured on the menus of many restaurants in Lübeck. In this section are a few good restaurants where you can dine well in historic surroundings.

Historischer Weinkeller
$$ –$$$ Altstadt
The Historischer Weinkeller, located beneath the 13th-century HeiligenGeist-Hospital (see the “Walking through Lübeck” section next), is an excellent and atmospheric restaurant with an international menu. You can choose from several different fixed-priced menus, including a summertime “lübsche Gasterei” (Lübeck hospitality), a seven-course medieval feast. You may begin with smoked Norwegian salmon, gooseliver pâté, or a fishbased soup. Entrees range from filet of cod with sauerkraut and poached haddock in a mustard sauce to meat dishes and vegetarian choices. Note: This restaurant is divided into two sections, the Kartoffelkeller (potato cellar) and the Weinkeller (wine cellar); of the two, the Weinkeller is the more pleasant place to dine. See map p. 199. Koberg 8. % 0451/76234. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($18–$25). Fixedprice menu 25€–40€ ($31–$50). AE, MC, V. Open: Daily noon to midnight.

V. to midnight. especially fish. Niederegger’s is open daily from 9 a.-mile) area around the . Try the crab soup. surrounded by the Trave River and its canals. if available. and the tasting menus are good value for money. this historic restaurant is a good place to enjoy regional specialties. V. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. You also can get pasta dishes such as tagliatelle with fresh mushrooms or with salmon and lemon. fixed-price menus lunch 18€–22€ ($22–$27). MC. See map p. In the front dining room. order “herring three ways” on black bread. and Lübeck 203 The sweet side of Lübeck Lübeck is the world capital of Marzipan. See map p. AE. Main courses: 8€–25€ ($10– $31). AE. all delicious.m.m. To sample Lübeck’s famous Marzipan. dinner 39€–57€ ($49–$71). Bremen. Breitestrasse 98 (% 0451/53010). located right across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806. Mengstrasse 48–52.000 medieval buildings still stand within a 5-sq. but approximately 1. Walking through Lübeck Concentrate your sightseeing in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt.-km (2-sq. you sit at wooden tables lit by candlelight. which comes with three different kinds of fish. followed by fresh fish from the Baltic Sea. Open: Daily 10 a. or you can go upstairs to the pleasant cafe for dessert and coffee. 199. They were so pleased with the sweet results that they’ve been making Marzipan ever since. the wine list is excellent. On the ground floor. and the staff is friendly and professional. Main courses: 15€–23€ ($18–$29). The service is attentive.m. 199. you can purchase bars and boxes of Marzipan to take away (an excellent gift idea). % 0451/72011. MC.m. Schiffergesellschaft $$ –$$$ Altstadt A popular spot for tourists and locals alike.m. % 0451/76776. more modern dining room behind it. Ristorante Roberto Rossi im Schabbelhaus $$ –$$$ Altstadt Occupying two elegant town houses on a lovely medieval street. Schabbelhaus serves good Italian cuisine and some classic North German dishes. decorated with wooden ship models hanging from the ceiling. The fish here is excellent and recommended. to 6 p. a sweet almond paste. An English-language menu is available to help guide your choices. Lübeckers ran out of flour during a long siege and started grinding almonds to make bread. Reservations recommended. stop in at Cafe Niederegger. About one-fifth of the Altstadt was destroyed in a 1942 bombing. Then I’d recommend the fish plate. According to legend. there’s a lighter.Chapter 13: Hamburg. As a starter. and 6–11 p. Breite Strasse 2. The atmospheric dining room overlooks a small garden.

and guild halls. After you enter the Altstadt. The Marienkirche served as a model for many . Rathausplatz (% 0451/122-1005). The Rathaus stands on the north and east sides of the Marktplatz. The entire walk. the twin-towered Marienkirche (St. The Rathaus was rebuilt several times since the first foundation stone was laid in 1230.204 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Marktplatz..m. 3. Mary’s Church). and vegetable stalls every Monday and Thursday. 1€ ($1.m. models of Hanseatic Kogge (cogs. Merchants stored salt (considered “white gold”) from nearby Lüneburg in these buildings before shipping it to Scandinavia. where the salt was used to preserve fish. one of the oldest and most beautiful city halls in Germany. is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. cross the Puppenbrücke (Dolls’ Bridge) and head east into the Altstadt. You can see everything in less than 30 minutes. to 6 p. 4. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. Black glazedbrick courses (horizontal lines) and round panels emblazoned with coats of arms adorn the redbrick walls. The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures. you reach Lübeck’s Rathaus. The building sits on brick arcades that allow easy access to the main entrance on Breite Strasse. shops. churches. Builders used brick as the predominant material for houses. the Markt is the site of Lübeck’s famous Christmas Market. From the train station. the cost is 3€ ($3. You can see the interior on a guided tour (in German) Monday through Friday at noon and 3 p. stand the Salzspeicher (Salt Lofts). Towering above the Markt and the Rathaus is one of northern Germany’s most outstanding examples of the brick Gothic style. a large square filled with meat. 1. Continuing a few blocks east on Holstenstrasse.. with stops at museums.m. topped by slender turrets. The present building. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. the newest from 1745. The bridge got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its stone railings. directly in front of you is the 15thcentury Holstentor (Holsten Gate). In December. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. Here you’ll find the new tourist Welcome Center and the newly revamped Museum Holstentor (% 0451/122-4129). fruit. or single-sail vessels). takes about four to five hours.25) for students and children under 18. What follows are the stops on a walking tour of the Altstadt that begins at the Hauptbahnhof (train station). a group of six gabled Renaissance buildings. once the main town entrance. to 6 p. and medieval torture instruments.50€ ($2) for children and students. the oldest dates from 1579. Schüsselbuden 13 (% 0451/397-700).75) for adults and 1. 2. a local history museum housed within the gate and contains a model of Lübeck as the town appeared in the mid 17th century. Just south.m. across the street from the Holstentor.m.

carrying on a tradition established by St. If you’re a fan of the great German writer Thomas Mann. just north of the Marienkirche.60€ ($6) for students. an almshouse built in the 17th century for the widows of seamen and merchants. The Magic Mountain.m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. 8. Its central nave. just to the south of the Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. Inside. At Königstrasse 21. to noon and 3–6 p. 1€ ($1. 9. was the author of Professor Unrat. former West German chancellor and Nobel Peace Prize winner. and has exhibits relating to the city’s cultural life in the 18th and 19th centuries. left as a reminder and warning of the horrors of war.m. has the highest brick vaulting in the world. and documents chronicling Mann’s life. 4. The house is open daily April through October from 10 a. is in the process of being restored and will become the Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck. Mann’s brother. Königstrasse 9–11 (% 0451/122-4148). They still are there.m. admission is 7€ ($9) for adults. the childhood home of Willi Brandt. Step through the ornamented baroque portal (open 9 a. a few blocks north of the Rathaus. the rest of the year from 11 a. you find a comprehensive collection of photographs. 36m (120 ft. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. to 6 p. During a WWII bombing attack. 7. 5. Dietrich Buxtehude (1637–1707). . This big.25) for students and children 6 to 18. to 5 p. At Glockengiesserstrasse 25. Mengstrasse 4 (% 0451/122-4192. also displays major 20th-century artists such as Leon Kirchner. Max Beckmann.m. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter. stone-and-stucco house with a gabled roof belonged to Mann’s grandparents and was the model for the family home Mann wrote about in Buddenbrooks. On the second floor are period rooms and artifacts. Mary’s best-known organist and composer.) high. from birth to death. for information. and Ernst Barlach. and Lübeck 205 other churches built in the Baltic region.m.m. The museum.buddenbrookhaus.m. at Glockengiesser 21. formed from two 18th-century town houses. you find the Günther Grass Haus museum.m. whose works include Death in Venice. Organ concerts take place during the summer and fall. to 6 p. Bremen. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter for more information.. the tower bells crashed down into the church and embedded themselves in the stone floor. the source of the movie The Blue Angel.m. letters. Next door. to 5 p. An outstanding collection of German Romantic and German Impressionist paintings is on view at Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. Heinrich Mann (1871–1950)..Chapter 13: Hamburg.) and you enter a tranquil courtyard with houses still occupied by widows. and that of his family.. 6. plan to spend at least half an hour at Buddenbrookhaus. is the Füchtingshof. and Buddenbrooks. solid.

Construction on this massive edifice began in 1173. 14. 11.m. . 12. St. at nos. 41. From March through September. Schmiedestrasse (% 0451/397330). In the early 19th century. You can see everything in about half an hour.m. with its belfry and four turreted spires. The Glandorps-Gang. you’ll sometimes see medieval redbrick buildings decorated with black glazed bricks. 1€ ($1. 49–51. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults.m. 13. The building is open daily from 10 a. On the south side of town. Peter’s Church). Philanthropic local citizens founded the hospital in 1230. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. The black glaze comes from salt being sprinkled on the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder.–5 p. and one of the most important monumental buildings of the Middle Ages.m. including a work by Hans Memling.m. the church is open daily from 9 a. at no.-Annen-Strasse 15 (% 0451/122-4137). A short distance to the north stands the Heiligen-Geist-Hospital (Hospital of the Holy Spirit). This building.”) 10.m. to 7 p. (Salt was considered “white gold. head over to the 750-year-old Petrikirche (St. the museum has a noteworthy collection of medieval and Renaissance altarpieces.). and you can poke your head inside them (no admission charge. and take the elevator up to the top of its tower for a memorable view of Lübeck and its port. to 6 p. 1€ ($1. The church was destroyed in WWII and later rebuilt. open Tues–Sun 10 a.206 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany White gold and black bricks In Lübeck and in other cities in northern Germany.25) for students and children. you find the St. to 6 p. Admission is 2.. Mühlendamm 2–6 (% 0451/74704). dating from 1612 and built for the widows of merchants and craftsmen. when the building was converted to a shelter for elderly men and women.m. 130 tiny wooden cabins without ceilings were built within its enormous main hall.-Annen-Museum. is one of the oldest social-welfare institutions in Europe. To round off your tour of Lübeck. and the Glandorps-Hof.50€ ($3) for adults. are the city’s oldest almshouses.25) for students and children 6 to 18.m. the church itself isn’t that interesting. to 6 p. Am Koburg (% 0451/122-2040). Except for its size.m. Two blocks northeast of the Dom.m. you find Lübeck’s Dom. Housed in a 16th-century Augustinian convent that was later used as an almshouse and a prison. The cabins remain intact.

with their outstanding museums. Narrow. the mighty Elbe River flows through an area near Dresden known as Saxon Switzerland. and musical heritage. S Dresden: Florence on the Elbe Dresden. celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006. destroyed in the bombings of World War II (WWII). associated with Goethe (Germany’s greatest writer. author of Faust) and the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The Frauenkirche is a symbol of what Dresden once was — a city known as “Florence on the Elbe. historic buildings. and Weimar: Jewels of the East In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Dresden and its famous museums ᮣ Discovering old and new Leipzig ᮣ Enjoying the beautiful town of Weimar ᮣ Remembering the past at Buchenwald axony and Thuringia (Thüringen in German) are side-by-side Länder (states) in eastern Germany that are well worth visiting. (See the “Saxony and Thuringia” map in this chapter. In Saxony. Perhaps the most important celebratory event was the reopening of the famous domed Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). are the largest cities in Saxony. Both states are rich in sightseeing possibilities.Chapter 14 Dresden. Leipzig. winding roads lead through spruce-covered hills to unspoiled villages that waft you back to the Middle Ages. famed for its river scenery. is the cultural jewel in Thuringia’s crown. Weimar. Thuringia is considered the “green heart” of Germany because the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) covers much of its southern portion.) The cities of Dresden and Leipzig.” and renowned for its architecture and art treasures — and hopes to become again. Dresden became the most important city in Saxony when the ruling Wettin . located 198km (123 miles) south of Berlin and 111km (69 miles) southeast of Leipzig.

Around it you find nearly all of Dresden’s major attractions. The trip takes about 20 minutes and costs 1. Under the rule of Elector Augustus the Strong. By plane Flughafen Dresden (% 0351/881-3360. More than a dozen trains make the daily trip from Berlin (2–21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (41⁄2 hours). call Deutsche Bahn at % stop at both stations. frequent train service.dresden-airport. including the Airport S-Bahn. Dresden has two main rail stations. Getting there Getting to Dresden is easy. The reconstruction of the Frauenkirche. This major city has an airport. using original plans and even some of the original stone (bombed pieces of which were found in the Elbe). 1945. By train Getting to Dresden by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe is easy. the preeminent personality in the town’s history.70€ ($2).208 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Dynasty decided to make the city its capital in the late 15th century. in the reopened portion of the Residenzschloss (palace). when Allied firebombs destroyed three-quarters of Dresden’s Altstadt. although some trains. the station on the north side of the river.bahn. is the most ambitious reconstruction effort in the entire country and marks an important stage in Dresden’s recovery. but the work has taken decades. lies 9km (51⁄2 miles) north of the city center. www. is used more for regional trains. You can buy your ticket at the S-Bahn window in the underground station beneath the new terminal. For rail information and schedules. Then came the night of February 13. which runs from the airport to the two main train stations. After reunification. the city airport. the beautiful old core of the city. Dresden-Neustadt. Many visitors come just to visit the museums in the Zwinger Palace and to see the treasures of the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). Lufthansa and other international carriers provide regularly scheduled service between Dresden and cities throughout Germany and Europe. within walking distance of Altstadt (Old Town). . at Schlesischer Park. A taxi from the airport to the center of Dresden costs about 16€ ($20).de). and a good road network. The easiest and least expensive way to get into the city center is by the Flughafen S-Bahn (airport train). or visit their Web site www. All long-distance trains pull into the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Dresden flourished as one of the great cultural centers of Europe. on Wiener Platz on the south side of the Elbe. Dresden emerged as the top contender for tourists in the former East Germany. Historic buildings have since been rebuilt.

Chapter 14: Dresden. Leipzig. and Weimar 209 Saxony and Thuringia 0 0 20 km 20 mi N 103 Airport E251 E28 POLAND E26 E55 167 A11 Eberswalde d e r O AN Y Berlin SAXONYANHALT 107 102 5 273 A10 E55 GERM THURINGIA Brandenburg Potsdam E51 A115 Berlin E55 A12 E30 189 Area of Detail E30 2 A13 87 Magdeburg El 81 71 A9 E51 102 Lübben Lübbenau bbenau be R iv Wittenberg er 187 Dessau E55 A13 2 87 101 97 6 91 Quedlinburg Eisleben 6 80 Halle Leipzig A14 Meissen Dresden 173 4 93 88 A4 E40 Buchenwald 7 Erfurt To Eisenach Dornburg Weimar Jena A4 E40 2 Altenburg E55 Chemnitz 174 E441 Arnstadt Th ür in ge Plauen E442 r E49 4 W al d E51 Hof E49 E48 Karlovy Vary 6 Coburg 279 C Z E C H 27 R E P U B L I C A70 E48 21 E49 Bayreuth A93 22 Bamberg A73 To Nuremberg Plzen E50 E50 .

The A4 comes in from Leipzig and Bavaria (eventually the A4 will connect Dresden to Prague). Prager Strasse. you can easily get around on foot. and restaurants line Hauptstrasse and Königstrasse. and Wilder Mann) lead into the center.m. Dresdner Verkehrsbetriebe (DVB. Germany’s reunification triggered a real estate and reconstruction boom in this picturesque neighborhood of art galleries. and ferries in Dresden and admission to all the top museums. Trying to find a parking spot in the center of Dresden isn’t easy. and the Semper Opera House. and Sunday (Schinkelwache only) 10 a. On the north side of the river is Dresden-Neustadt. The Dresden Card is good for 48 hours on all trams. is the main thoroughfare (and site of the main tourist information office).m. Pretty 19th-century houses reconstructed to hold shops.. Prager Strasse (% 0351/491-920. apartments. Hellerau. dresden-tourist.210 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany By car The A13 Autobahn connects Dresden to Berlin. its main streets. Neustadt. to 4 p. the newly restored Frauenkirche. at Theaterplatz Square. I recommend that you park on the outskirts and travel to the city center by bus or tram. www. The same services are available at the Information Center located in the Schinkelwache (Old City Guard House). you can book a hotel room and purchase a map of Dresden and information booklets in English. You can buy the Dresden Card at the tourist information centers. and restaurants. . buses. between the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) and the river. The cost is 19€ ($24). The highways run along the west side of the city. city tours. The hours for both are Monday through Friday 10 a. Saturday 10 a. www. Orienting yourself The Elbe River divides Dresden more or less in half. Getting around Dresden If you plan to visit only the historic center of Dresden..m. you find all the major cultural attractions. including those in the Zwinger and the Albertinum. churches in the Altmarkt (Old Market) and Neumarkt (New Market) squares. near the main train station.m. a wide pedestrian street lined with shops. On the south side. and cafes.dvbag. You also can buy theater. boutiques. to 6 p. You also get reduced prices for other museums. or concert tickets. The city’s transport authority. to 4 p. and boat tours in the Dresden area. Finding information At the Information Center. opera. Four exits (Altstadt.m. but the major lines continue to operate every hour. % 0351/857-1011. Service is limited after including art museums. maintains an extensive system of bus and tram lines within the city and far out into the suburbs. the Zwinger Palace museums.

P Zin ze Berlin tras bu Hamburg Gün be lal lee Sternplatz ALTSTADT sse Lingnerplatz Blüherpark Bl herpark Grosser Garten tzst e DINING Ayers Rock 14 Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen 22 Café Schinkelwache 8 Café zur Frauenkirche 15 Fischgalerie 4 Freiberger Schankhaus 19 Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) 6 Luisenhof 21 Rossini 12 Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais 9 ke Ros tr en s sse rS tra rass ae onst as se Webergasse Pirnaischer Platz G r un e Amm r n st nstra e Sac hsa Zw Am Zwinger Pond i 11 12 13 14 Theater6 platz Rathenauplatz Dürerstrasse Pilln itzer llee ass e Stra sse rass e . and Weimar ra ATTRACTIONS Albertinum 17 Frauenkirche 16 Grünes Gewolbe 10 Katholische Hofkirche 11 Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst 18 Standseilbahn 20 Zwinger 7 Church Information Railway Hauptbahnhof Dresden au e ch ss tti e Lu rass nga e st d Lin B 211 Munich lüh e Wiener Platz Le nn e am Main rst Frankfurt i str iese erw Bürgkstrasse Par sse as se GERMANY Dresden i .25 km ag se bu ienMar cke brü ra Ter ss e Albertstrasse sse e ss H au p chs tra tst Frie dri St ra ras er 0 2 sse nig Kö rasse 1 st N ra nuf st rit z 4 3 rd Wiga 18 Carolaplatz sb Köbisplatz se 22 21 20 Sachsenplatz Elb e stras er e s r tra aufe ts Ostr vrien e D ss ei e 5 se Ost W ss ert Alb ücke br zs er it nn Ko ustu ing Aug ei ert Carolsbrüc ch rück e ACCOMMODATIONS Art'otel 5 Hilton Dresden 13 Hotel Bülow Residenz 1 Hotel Martha Hospiz 2 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe 18 Westin Bellevue 3 tra raalle Elbe Ter rass enu fer Fr.-HeckertPlatz Sc h we ras se Marie Freib erge r Str asse Postplatz 9 Wilsd ru Schloß E hst hrlic rasse 10 15 17 16 18 19 ffer S trasse strass rine r St 7 8 e An ne ss St ra tra Georgplatz sse -Ring Dr.M de rg 0 0.-Külz sse ausstra h n e Wais se er rfs Stü rg nd o er S et er s St Prag Chapter 14: Dresden.25 mi 0. Leipzig.

m. www. book your room ahead of time. Seeing Dresden by guided tour Stadtrundfahrt Dresden (% 0351/899-5650. tours from Thursday through Sunday. The cost is 11€ ($14) for offers a one-hour Historical City Tour (Historischer Stadtrundgang). to 7 p. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a. and so has the demand for rooms. The paddle-wheel steamers depart from the Terrassenufer quay below the Brühlsche Terrasse (embankment) along the south bank of the river and travel upstream to Loschwitz and back again. Validate your ticket (by stamping the ticket in a machine) upon entering the bus or tram.m. A single ticket for the bus or tram costs 1. to 3 p. 5. A one-day Tageskarte (day pass) costs 4. good for two adults and up to four children in one zone. and 3:30 p. both are open Monday through Friday from 7 a. Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt (% 0351/866-090) offers daily 90-minute boat trips along the Elbe from May into October at 11 a. costs 5.50). to 6 p. If you want to stay here. or at DVB service centers inside the Hauptbahnhof or at Postplatz. The price is 18€ ($22) for adults. including the lovely Loschwitz neighborhood. unless you’re visiting the outskirts of Dresden. You find a small gym and sauna on the premises.m. 1 p.50€ ($7) for children.m. Purchase your tickets and a transportation map from the vending machines (marked “Fahrkarten”) outside the train stations. . Staying in Dresden Since reunification and the amazing increase in tourism.50€ ($7). An English-speaking guide accompanies the 1 and 3 p.m. Dresden’s hotel prices have soared. A Familientageskarte (family day ticket).m.. you only need a one-zone ticket. The 174 goodsized bedrooms are stylish and comfortably chic without being pretentious.50€ ($ Double rooms have bathrooms with stainless-steel sinks and a shower.m. offers a daily 90-minute Super Dresden Tour (Grosse Stadtrundfahrt).m. adjacent to the Augustusbrücke (Augustus Bridge) and covers both sides of the Elbe. see Chapter 22. Art’otel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt The six floors of this dramatic postmodern hotel. For a description of the beautiful new Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe. a guided (audio headsets for English translations) bus tour that leaves from Schlossplatz. and costs 10€ ($13). are the “artiest” of any hotel in Dresden.stadtrundfahrt..m. a walk through the city’s historic center. www.70€ ($2) for a one-hour ride anywhere in Zone 1. This tour departs from Postplatz daily at 11 a. DVB (% 0351/8571011.. You can hop on or off the bus at any of 22 points along the way. Buses leave every half-hour from 10 a..m. and 5 p. free for children 14 and younger. Buy your tickets at a tourist information center.m. Buy your tickets at the kiosk on the quay. 3 p.212 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The city is divided into fare zones. located a bit out of the center of the Altstadt.

DC. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. 01097 Dresden. Rates include buffet breakfast. An der Frauenkirche 5. Bathrooms. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Baby-sitting can be arranged.artotel. Rähnitzgasse 19. Michelin-starred Caroussel Restaurant serves fresh French cuisine with a Mediterranean influence (main courses 25€–35€/ $ 31–$ 44). Each of the 30 spacious rooms is laid out differently and furnished with modern designer and reproduction Biedermeier this luxury boutique hotel is housed in a building that dates from 1730. DC. Rates: 250€ ($312) double. Nieritzstrasse 11. and many of the rooms have lovely river and Altstadt views. 01067 Dresden. Fax: 0351/817-6222. 01097 Dresden. % 0351/49220. AE. % 0351/81760. % 0351/80030. See map p. 211. expensive. The 50 rooms have a simple. Rooms are midsize and somewhat short on style but well-maintained. 211. MC. The large marble-tiled bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. modern décor and are well-maintained. % 800-445-8667 in the U. each with a shower. 211. Hilton Dresden $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This 333-room hotel across from the Frauenkirche is one of the best (and largest) in eastern Germany. V. You find a pool. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). Rates: 140€–250€ ($175–$312) double. and Canada. AE. AE. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). Leipzig. V. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. and Weimar 213 See map p. Hotel Martha Hospiz $$ Neustadt Managed by the Association of Christian Hoteliers (VCH). Westin Bellevue $$$$ Neustadt The 339-room Westin Bellevue is located near the most attractive part of the Elbe River. fitness club. Rates: 160€–215€ ($200–$269) double. . or 0351/86420. MC. Hotel Bülow Residenz $$$$ Neustadt One of the finest restorations in Neustadt. The staff is unusually friendly and helpful. Fax: 0351/800-3100. Fax: 0351/864-2725. Rates include buffet and sauna on the premises.dresden.S. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz.Chapter 14: Ostra-Allee 33. Rates: 130€ ($162) double. MC. are on the small side. The hotel’s elegant. 211. Fax: 0351/492-2777. http://marthahospiz. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. www. 01067 Dresden. AE. this simple but comfortable four-story hotel is a 15-minute walk from the heart of Dresden’s Altstadt. See map p. See map p. on the north bank of the Elbe River. MC. V. www.hilton. DC. V.

m. Open: Daily 10 a. DC. % 800-937-8461 in the U. Am Brauhaus 8B. www. AE. wander down Münzgasse. Rates: 250€–350€ ($312–$437) double. In 1995. Grosse Meissner Strasse 15.westin. grilled salmon. % 0351/811-990. See map p. you can walk across the river to the Altstadt in ten minutes. Main courses: 8. Ayers Rock $ –$$ Altstadt AUSTRALIAN This likable Australian restaurant with outdoor tables is famous for its cocktails but also serves German and Aussie beer on tap. Café Schinkelwache $ –$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL This sandstone structure in the center of Theaterplatz was built in 1832 by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel to house soldiers and guards. and another 800 can be accommodated within the sprawling beer garden (open Apr–Oct). MC. grassy. Neustadt (5km/3 miles northeast of city center). . and comfortable. Tram: 9 from the Hauptbahnhof stops in front of the hotel at Neustädter Markt. Tram: 11 to Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen. V.–3 a. ostrich steak. the narrow lane that runs north from the Frauenkirche to the river. and Canada. You find an on-site pool and health club. As the night wears on.m. or 0351/805-1733.m. 211. and roasts. Children younger than 18 stay for free in their parents’ room. See map p. and salads. well-appointed. V. DC. 01097 Dresden.S. sausages. See map p. % 0351/490-1188. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Tram 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.214 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The rooms are large.–1 a. sautéed fish with parsley and the bar area becomes a crowded singles scene. grilled lamb cutlets. On Saturday and Sunday afternoons. you can eat and drink to the sounds of an oom-pahpah band. MC. Open: Daily 11 a. For a sample of the city’s culinary offerings. Fax: 0351/805-1749. The bathrooms have shower units or shower-tub combinations. AE. The menu features heaping plates of traditional favorites such as roast pork shank.m. V. Dining in Dresden Dresden is bursting with new restaurants of every kind. 211. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. AE. Menu items include kangaroo rump steak. Schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). MC. soups. A green. if not spacious. Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen $ –$$ Neustadt GERMAN Some 250 diners can fit into the dining rooms in this newly built replica of an old-fashioned beer hall. riverside park stretches behind the hotel. Waldschlösschen beer is brewed on the premises. Münzgasse 8.50€–17€ ($11–$21). Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). DC. 211.

Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. See map p. Sophienstrasse am Theaterplatz. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. cheese.50–$6. minimalist design.Chapter 14: Dresden. Pastries: 2€–5€ ($2. V. meal-size salads. MC. with its outside terrace overlooking the newly restored Frauenkirche. Leipzig.m. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 3 p.50€–12€ ($8–$15). V. served with black bread. pastas such as rigatoni with chicken breast. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. 211. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). or coffee.25). soups. Tram: 1. and veal stew. Maxstrasse 2. AE. Open: Daily 9 a. Café zur Frauenkirche $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This street-side corner cafe.–2 a. % 0351/490-3909. and Worcestershire sauce. See map p. is a good place to sit outside and eat or have a drink. AE. See map p. . You can also sit and enjoy wine. MC. % 0351/498-9836. 7. and white fish served with tomato-flavored spaghettini. MC. 8. For dessert try the homemade Quarkkeutchen. beer. Fresh sushi is available on Wednesday and Friday nights. An der Frauenkirche 5. to midnight. 12. Accompany your meal with a glass of Freiberger Preminium Pils. Reservations recommended. Tues–Sat 6–11 p. and a blueblack color scheme. 2. % 0351/490-3506. 211. Main courses: 14€–24€ ($17–$30). a baked dumpling filled with cheese and raisins. Menu selections include pastries.m. are good appetizers. The menu offers simple but delicious Saxon staples such as a Saxon potato fritter with cheese and strips of smoked salmon. Fresh oysters and marinated herring. 14. or chicken breast fricassee with mustard. Main courses: 6. and Weimar 215 the building was rebuilt and reconfigured into an intimate cafe with outdoor tables on the terrace (you find a tourist information center around the other side).. a bowl of Linseneintopf (lentil stew). 211. is a good place to perch for a casual meal or dessert and coffee. V. 11. crepes with mushrooms and chicken. and pork goulash with cabbage and dumplings. or 17. Open: Daily 10 a. and Saxon sauerbraten (marinated roast beef). Main courses: 9€–18€ ($11–$23). The menu typically has dishes such as grilled lamb cutlet with asparagus and sauce béarnaise. or bouillabaisse with North Sea fish. scampi. located directly across from the Frauenkirche. Fischgalerie $$ –$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD The interior of Dresden’s best fish restaurant is a sophisticated affair with an open-view kitchen. The menu changes every week. Freiberger Schankhaus $$ Altstadt SAXON/GERMAN This place.m. dramatic lighting. You can order a salad with turkey strips.m. Fresh seafood dishes may include salmon with champagne sauce. 4.m. AE.

Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25). or lamb with applewine sauce and polenta. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.–1 a. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. 211.–11 p. V.m. AE. or you may want to try the famous house specialty. DC. 211. one floor above the lobby of the Dresden Hilton. Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) $$ Altstadt ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL This quartet of restaurants in a neoclassical building. MC.or oven-roasted marinated beef). Main courses: 6. MC.m. Flickering candles set beneath vaulted ceilings provide suitable atmosphere. Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais $$ Altstadt GERMAN The food in this famous cellar restaurant is a modern approximation of a medieval feast. serves dishes such as risotto with artichokes and radicchio and veal scaloppini. . % 0351/864-2855. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. red-walled Weinzimmer (wine room). See map p. served with asparagus and roast potatoes. Open: Daily 11 a. MC. AE. Rossini $$$ Altstadt ITALIAN Rossini offers fine Italian cuisine in a stylish. Pastries: 4–6. MC. The restaurant has a menu in English to help you make up your mind. Main courses: 19€–29€ ($24–$36).50€–15€ ($8–$18). DC. wild boar.m. Each of the four restaurants has a different theme. 211. and so do the waitresses in their traditional German dresses. The Bierkeller (beer hall) with a painted ceiling serves traditional dishes such as Sauerbraten (pot. Taschenberg 3. Theaterplatz. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). See map p. % 0351/497-260. You can order dishes such as grilled rabbit with thyme or trout fried in butter. V. 211. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.m. V. % 0351/498-160.m. erected on the site of a cluster of cottages (“the Italian Village”). See map p. AE. For dessert try the tiramisu with bananas or sorbet with champagne and fruit.50€ ($5–$8). called Dirndls. Neumarkt 8 (in the Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe).m. % 0351/500-4347. “August’s Hunting Trophy”: roasted medallions of venison. DC. as does the formal. is a good place for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). AE. Open: Daily 10 a. a graceful-looking room with windows that overlook the river. V. Open: Daily 6–11:30 p. completely smokefree setting. Open: Daily 11 a. veal in thyme sauce with tomato fettuccine. The Café. Bellotto.216 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. and juniper sauce. dress-up. an upscale Italian eatery on the top floor with an outdoor balcony overlooking Theaterplatz. An der Frauenkirche 5 (in the Dresden Hilton). Menu items may include homemade ravioli with arugula and cheese. Reservations recommended. once housed Italian workers. to midnight.

m. A money-saving Tageskarte (day ticket) gets you into all four museums in the Zwinger complex.75) round-trip. to 1 a.m. Across the street from the station is Luisenhof. Exploring Dresden You find all of Dresden’s major attractions in the relatively compact Altstadt. www.m. early 19th-century) period. a residential area called Weisser Hirsch. starting with moody works by Caspar David . the Neustadt quarter has Germany’s largest concentration of houses from the Gründerzeit (Biedermeier. is a rich collection of 19th. de. easy. The German/Saxon menu features traditional dishes such as potato soup with sausages. The Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery). the historic center. The Dresden Card. described under “Finding Information. 4€ ($5) children and seniors. the Saxon King Albert converted this former royal arsenal into a home for his vast collection of art and precious jewelry.m.–2 p. The funicular runs from 6 a.m. and memorable dining experience. for 10€ ($13) adults. the Neues Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). you’ll see the Standseilbahn. Leipzig. The collection concentrates on German art. and Sauerbraten with cabbage and dumplings. and the Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (all described in this section). Although you won’t find the museum attractions of the Altstadt here.and 20th-century art. at Trachtenbergerstrasse 40. Bergbahnstrasse 8 (% 0351/214-9960).Chapter 14: Dresden. take Tram 8 to Schillerplatz and walk across the famous Blaue Wunder bridge. a restaurant with an outdoor terrace offering wonderful panoramic views of the Elbe River and Dresden in the distance. Main courses go for 10€ to 17€ ($12–$22). Sunday from 10 a.).. Take the funicular to the top. and Weimar 217 Dinner with a view For a fun. Albertinum Altstadt Between 1884 and 1887. visit the Web site of the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden (State Art Collections).” earlier in this chapter. but relax with a glass of beer or wine and enjoy the view of Dresden’s spires. For more information on all of Dresden’s major museums. take one of Dresden’s old funiculars (mountain railways) up to the top of a hill in the suburb of Loschwitz and dine in a pleasant restaurant overlooking the city.skd-dresden. The Neustadt quarter on the north bank of the Elbe is another area you may want to visit. to midnight (brunch 10 a. The service can be slow. is another money-saving option that includes all public transportation. On the other side. First. to 9 p. a funicular that began operation in 1895. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m.m. and costs 3€ ($3. taking up two floors. The restaurant accepts MasterCard and Visa.

% 0351/491-4619. ivory carvings. gold jewelry. The Historic . Once again this baroque church dominates the historic center of Dresden. The new golden cross atop the dome. Open: Daily. 211. intricately designed mirrors. Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) Altstadt The fabulous assortment of treasures displayed in the Residenzschloss formerly was housed in the Albertinum. an exact replica of the 18th-century original. Even better. for performance information.m. Currently closed.m. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. bronze statuettes. Note: This great collection closed in January 2006 for major redesign work. The Neues Grünes Gewölbe (New Green Vault) features ten rooms of selected masterworks from the huge collection of 16th. see the Web site. Sunday concerts (8€/$ 10). In September 2006. and take advantage of the free audio guide. except during Sunday concerts. The sculpture collection has been moved to the Zwinger (see later in this section). Two collections are open for viewing. the Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Historic Green Vault) opened. % 0351/6560-670. 7. The 1945 Allied bombing of Dresden destroyed 80 percent of the city. Allow yourself at least an hour to browse this treasure-trove (be prepared for crowds). to noon and 1–6 p. 211. each requiring a separate admission. A painstaking restoration project began in 1993 and was finally completed in 2006. the Frauenkirche on the southeast side of Neumarkt (New Market Square) was the most important Protestant church in Germany and had one of the most famous domes in Europe. but the paintings in the New Masters Gallery unfortunately won’t be on view until the Albertinum reopens. See map p. enjoy one of the 3 p. featuring a larger selection of the collection (no tours allowed. See map p. the East German government let the charred ruin remain as a memorial. and going up to the brilliant works of Dresden-born Otto Dix (1891–1969).to 18th-century objects. and all your belongings must be checked before entering). this dazzling selection of highlights will more than satisfy your curiosity. But there’s more. a brilliant painter who ran afoul of the Nazis. including rococo chests. step inside the brilliant white interior to admire the immaculate restoration work. but it was moved to this new location in September 2004. including the Frauenkirche. and as of press time there was no scheduled date for its reopening.218 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Friedrich. the great German Romantic artist. Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) Altstadt Built between 1726 and 1743.m. Brühl Terrace.. Neumarkt. Allot at least an hour to see the highlights. Tram: 3. generally 10 a. The reopening of the church was an event of major symbolic importance. Admission: Free. if you want it. After the war. was built by the son of a British bomber pilot who took part in the original bombing raid. Unless you’re an objet d’art nut. and priceless porcelain. or 8 to Rathenau Platz.

elector of Saxony and king of Poland.). the church was constructed in a lavish Italian baroque style with a curving facade and 86m (282-ft.–4:30 p. 211.m.m. % 0351/803-0817. Zwinger Altstadt Augustus the Strong. Historic Green Vault 12€ ($14).m. Tram: 3.–6 p. On display are pieces of painted furniture. Open: Daily 10 a. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Sophienstrasse.m. Admission: New Green Vault 6€ ($7. Built by the son of Augustus the Strong. Also shown are toys.skddresden.m. 211.75) adults.50) children and students. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Residenzschloss. is the largest church in Saxony. See map p. 7. also known as the Cathedral of St. Trinitas. The architect. and Christmas decorations from the nearby Erzgebirge region. 5.Chapter 14: Dresden. Inside. Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts) Neustadt The oldest Renaissance building in Dresden. with its graceful fountains and mythological figures. He wanted the Zwinger to be his Versailles and a place where he could show off his incredible art collections. fountains. built this magnificent baroque palace in 1719. See map p. hand-woven baskets. 3. (Historic Green Vault until 7 p. What you see are everyday objects used by the common folk — a far cry from the gem-encrusted treasures in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault.m. 2€ ($2. available in advance by calling % 0351/4911-9285 or online at www. Sat 10 a. You need about 15 minutes to look around. % 0351/495-1133. 211. and Weimar 219 Green Vault can only be visited with a prebooked timed-entry ticket. The semicircular Wallpavillon at the west end and the adjacent Nymphenbad (Bath of Nymphs).m.m. or 51 to Carolaplatz. % 0351/4914-2000. described earlier). designed a series of galleries and domed pavilions to enclose a large rectangular courtyard with formal gardens.. D.50) adults.) bell tower decorated with statues of saints and apostles. are notable buildings that rely on the exuberant sculptures of the Bavarian artist Balthasar Permoser . Jägerhof.m. Frederick Augustus II (ruled 1733–1763). Sun noon to 4 p.–4 p. Leipzig. and folk costumes.m. Open: Mon–Fri 9 a. Katholische Hofkirche (Catholic Court Church) Altstadt The restored Hofkirche. and promenades. carvings. Admission: 3€ ($3.50) seniors and children. Pöppelmann (1662–1736). tableware. pottery. See map p. Schlossplatz. M. the 16th-century Jägerhof (Hunters Court) houses this fine collection of regional folk art. you can see the crypt with the tombs of 49 kings and princes of Saxony. 8.50€ ($4. Admission: Free.–6 p. Tram: 4 or 8 to Kopckestrasse 1.

50) for children and seniors.50€ ($ 3) for children and seniors. Today. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection). Rubens. The “giant animal room” on the second floor has a collection of 18th-century Meissen animals. On the northeast side is the Semper Gallery.220 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany (1651–1732). the Green Vault.m. Dutch. you find a series of detailed townscapes of Dresden painted by Canaletto in the mid 18th century. and the Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. 4. Admission is 3€ ($ 3.–6 p. 3. Tram: 2. it costs 10€ ($ 13) for adults. to 6 p. with all manner of clocks and scientific instruments of the 16th to 19th centuries. depending on your interest level. to the left of the Wallpavillon. Theaterplatz 1. You save money with a Tageskarte (Day Ticket). and Rembrandt. Gottfried Semper added the pavilion in 1846. % 0351/491-4622. a separate section of the Semper Gallery. with its entrance in the Glockenspiel Pavillon (Carillon Pavillion).25) adults. The entrance is directly across from the entrance to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. They all are open the same hours — Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. Again. 2€ ($ 2. Give yourself about 15 minutes to wander through. a Renaissancestyle two-story pavilion linked by one-story galleries. In galleries two through four. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m. Admission is 5€ ($ 6. good for all Zwinger museums. and German paintings by Van Dyck.50) for children and seniors. Selections from the Skulpturen-Sammlung (Sculpture Collection) formerly housed in the Albertinum are now on view in the Zwinger in the ground floor of the Französischer Pavillon (French Pavilion. See map p.50) adults.25) adults. In the Rüstkammer (Armory). Canaletto’s views of Dresden are so true to life that they were used as reference works during the post-WWII reconstruction of the city. Chinese. The collection also includes Flemish.25) children and seniors. one of the best in the world. you can see a small but superlative collection of armor and weapons from the 15th to 18th centuries.m.m. . you find the Mathematische-Physikalischer Salon (Salon of Mathematics and Physics). has as its showpiece Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. This gallery. 2€ ($ 2. 2. 5€ ($ 6. Vermeer. entrance in the courtyard). Dürer. The most important museum is the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) in the Semper Gallery (entrance at Theaterplatz 1). you can spend 15 minutes or an hour. starting with the ancient cultures of the Mediterranean region through all epochs of European sculpture to the present. or 8 to Postplatz. Allow at least two hours for unhurried browsing. 20€ ($ 25) for a family. The collection includes examples from over five millennia. Admission is 6€ ($ 7. and Meissen porcelain from the 18th and 19th centuries. Depending on your interest.50) children and seniors.75) for adults. you can see everything in under half an hour.75) for adults. this entire complex of buildings contains a stunning collection of museums. displays Japanese. — but charge separate admission prices. On the west side of the Zwinger. Admission is 5€ ($ 6. 211.50€ ($ 4.

where you find department stores Wilsdruffer Strasse.m. accessible via Hauptstrasse 17–19 (Tram: 9). in the Altstadt. A Trödelmarkt (flea market) is open Saturdays from 9 a. The best shops Weihnachtsland am Zwinger. In Neustadt. to 3 p. and Weimar 221 The Zwinger Wallpavillon Mathematische– Physikalischer Salon Nymphenbad Julian–Grimau–Allee Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Picture Gallery) Theaterplatz Rüstkamner (Armory) Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection) Glockenspielpavillon Kronentor Shopping in Dresden Dresden’s main shopping streets are Prager Strasse. you find many high-quality antiques dealers lining both sides of a lane called Am Goldenen Reiter. is the best-stocked and most interesting gift Zwinger- graben . Leipzig. Kleine Brüdergasse 5 (% 0351/862-1230.m. and Altmarkt. beneath the Albertbrücke (bridge) (Tram: 1 or 4). More-exclusive shops reside in Neustadt on the north side of the river on Königstrasse and Hauptstrasse. Tram: 4 or 8).Chapter 14: Dresden.

The opera and ballet season lasts from September to mid-July. filigree lace from Plauen. gingerbread from Pulsnitz. Tram: 4 or 8). selling handmade Christmas.dresdnerphilharmonie. Tram: 3 or 5). Schiller. Several operas by Richard Wagner and Richard Strauss had their premieres in this house. This December event. The oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Dresden is Wehsener rock shows. Theaterplatz 2 (% 0351/ where actors perform dramas by Goethe. Its hand-painted objects are the most charming and interesting in Dresden. The Dresden Philharmonic performs at the Kulturpalast. Opera and classical concerts The Semperoper (Semper Opera House). Tram 1. Ticket prices range from 8€ to 78€ ($10–$97). seeing a performance by the resident company.semperoper. Tickets cost 11€ to 40€ ($14–$50). The theater is closed during August. and blown-glass tree decorations from Lauscha. or 7). The famous Christmas market Dresden’s Weihnachtsmarkt (also called the Striezelmarkt) is the oldest Christmas market in Germany. the Sächsisches Oper (Saxon Opera). Postplatz (% 0351/491-350. Look for woodcarvings from the Erzgebirge Mountains. which was built in the mid 19th century and twice rebuilt. you can find classical concerts. www. Tram: 13. discos. and opera are available from the tourist information centers on Prager Strasse and Theaterplatz. takes place in the Altmarkt and features handmade regional crafts and gift items and homemade foods. can be a highlight of your trip. or just a good place to relax with a glass of wine or a beer. Discovering nightlife in Dresden Dresden is the cultural center of Saxony. and Easter ornaments from the nearby Erzgebirge region. dance. Advent stars from Hermhut. The main stage for classical theater in the city is the Schauspielhaus. Bus: 72 or 76). Anything you buy can be shipped. which began in 1434. 5km (3 miles) southeast of the center at Donaustrasse 72 (% 0351/4707340. New Year’s. in the Altmarkt (% 0351/48660. 4. www. is one of the world’s great opera houses. indigo-printed cloth and pottery from Lusatia. Summer concerts take place in the courtyards of the Zwinger. 2. Tickets for classical concerts. Depending on your tastes. You can also take a free tour of the studios and factory. Tickets are 10€ to 25€ ($13–$31). and Shakespeare. If you’re an opera buff.222 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany shop in Dresden. . so many and varied nightlife options always are available.

Tram: 7. or “city of heroes.m. Die 100. The round-trip cost is 18€ ($22) per person. A dance club with room for everyone is DownTown and Groove Station. and home to a famous university . Tram: 7 or 8). giant rocks. Katherinenstrasse 11–13 (% 0351/802-8801.m. Böhmische Strasse 34 (% 0351/804-5706. The upstairs cafe at Planwirtschaft..m.Chapter 14: Dresden. a center of publishing. to 2 a. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. or 11). 5. Leipzig: City of Heroes Historic Leipzig. deep gorges. low-key bar without intrusive music. is called a Heldenstadt. to 2 a.m. a small. is open daily from 7 p. Leipzig has long been a major cultural and commercial force in Saxony. Elbe cruises leave from the dock below Brühl Terrace. I recommend that you take a boat trip along the Elbe River.m. From May into October.saechsische-dampfschiffahrt. and Weimar 223 Sailing through Saxon Switzerland If you have the time. in English.000 people. Louisenstrasse 10 (% 0351/801-1739.m. Leipzig. Tram: 7 or 8).m.m.m. is open from 9 a. Other routes travel to Meissen and through Bohemia. 8.m. The place is open Monday to Friday from 11 a. to 1 a. online at www. Raskolnikoff. Visiting Leipzig is worth the trip to see a proud East German city rediscovering and redefining itself after years of Communist rule. You can check out all the Elbe excursions. Monday is gay and lesbian night. The club is open daily from 9 p. the downstairs bar stays open until 3 a. and sheer sandstone cliffs. The Sächsische Dampfschiffahrtsgesellschaft (Saxon Excursion Boat Company. Leipzig is only a little smaller than Dresden. on weekends.) With a population of about 450. is a hip dive with sand-covered floors. Tram: 7 or 8). Tram: 3. located at the confluence of the Weisse Elster and Pleisse rivers. The trips take from 3 to 41⁄2 hours. where you see castle-crowned hilltops. % 0351/ 866-090) runs several trips on historic paddle-wheelers and modern boats through a scenic region known as Sächsisches Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland). and on Sunday you find dinner and dancing. to 2 a. until the last person leaves. 8. to 3 a.m.. open daily from 5 or 11). Although it doesn’t look like much. (See the “Leipzig” map in this chapter. Food and drink are for sale onboard. is a trendy drinking place set in a cellar and popular with students and artists. Cover is 4€ ($5). 7.m.” for its role in toppling the former Communist government of East Germany. the esplanade that runs along the south bank of the river. Louisenstrasse 20 (% 0351/8013187. daily excursions depart for the Saxon Switzerland route. Alaunstrasse 100 (% 0351/801-3957. Bars and clubs Café Hieronymous.

and some Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings and arcades from the early 20th century. Dresden (about 11⁄2–2 hours).de. is the largest on the Continent. a train station. Leipzig-Halle International Airport (% 0341/224-1155.bahn. trade fairs have played an important role in the city’s life. including the famed Gewandhaus Orchestra. trip time is 14 minutes. and Frankfurt (5 hours). and a good road network. The fare is 8€ ($10). B181. and its skyscrapers and nightlife give the city a cosmopolitan flair that’s unique for this region. or you may want to spend the night in this lively Saxon metropolis. a new commercial flash point for cafes. and Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig in 1813. Leipzig was heavily bombed by British and American forces in 1943. to midnight.224 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany with some 20. You still find some narrow streets and houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861 or visit www. A number of federal highways (B2. Trains arrive daily from Berlin (about 21⁄2 hours). Willy-Brandt-Platz. Leipzig also is a city with many great musical traditions. B6. and restaurants. Getting there Leipzig has all the transportation options of a major city: an lies 11km (7 miles) northwest of the city center. The Flughafen (Airport) Express train runs between the airport and the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station) every 30 minutes from 4:30 a. The 25. B184) pass by or skirt Leipzig. and much of the city is rebuilt or being rebuilt.m. But people in Leipzig are much more interested in looking forward than looking back. and to other European destinations. For centuries. The recently restored Hauptbahnhof is one of the most happening places in Leipzig. Johann Sebastian Bach is closely associated with Leipzig. www.000 students. You can easily visit Leipzig as a daytrip from Dresden. 111km (68 miles) to the northwest. By train The Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station). By car Leipzig is connected to the A9 (Berlin–Munich) and the A14 (Halle– Dresden) 30-minute taxi ride to the city center costs about 30€ ($37). such as Munich and Frankfurt. Mozart and Mendelssohn performed here. shops. By plane Several airlines link Leipzig to major German cities.leipzig-airport. B87. For information and train schedules. . B95. You can easily get there from anywhere in Germany.

Chapter 14: Dresden. tmbold Hu Hauptbahnhof 2 Tröndlinring RichardWagnerPlatz Richard-Wagner-Strasse Brühl Sachsenplatz 3 4 Ric erd ele rrin g ha rd- Gr. Gerberst r.L u t h Neues Opernhaus Petersstrasse Burgstrass Sch Johannisplatz uls tra e sse Neues Gewandhaus 16 idts tras se . m str Frankfurt Bee t h o v e Munich ATTRACTIONS Bach-Museum 8 Grasssi Museum 16 Museum der Bildenden Künste 3 Museum für Kunsthandwerk 14 Museum für Völkerkunde 11 Museum in der Runden Ecke 5 MusikinstrumentenMuseum 10 Nikolaikirche 15 Thomaskirche 9 Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig 13 . Alte Waage Marktplatz ssg ässch. z-Str h n it Tauc er- Gr Nü ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Fürstenhof 2 Leipzig Marriott Hotel 4 The Westin Leipzig 1 DINING Apels Garten 6 Auerbachs Keller 12 Paulaner Palais 7 Di ttr ich rin g Mart i n . Fleischer g ass Reichsstrasse Nikolaistrasse WillyBrandtPlatz Wa gn erStr ass e i Brü hl Go e Goet hestr Barfu 6 e itätsstr. Leipzig. Ritterstr asse 5 asse Hain str. Alte Börse Markt 7 Naschmarkt Altes 15 Rathaus Gr as im maische S om 8 Th sse tr asse ga 11 12 13 9 KönigsMädler10 haus passag Klosterg.Ri Rossplatz ng Hamburg Berlin er Leipzig GERMANY am Main Dimitroffstrasse nstrasse ind nW ühle . ün ew al d s rnb erg . and Weimar 225 Leipzig t er-S ach hum t-Sc Kur 1 0 0 100 meters 0. Katharinenstrasse Schwanenteich markt Augustusplatz Univers 14 Neu- Universität Leipzig Grimmai scher Steinweg Georg iring Burgplatz atz Schil lerstr asse pl Ro Go ss ldsc Str ass hm e t r.1 mile N Parthenstrasse Uferstrasse strasse Nordstrasse Pfaffendorfer strasse Information Railway i r.

LVB (% 0172/1000000.m. Saturday 9 a. Getting around Leipzig If you arrive by train for a the location. V. See map p. you can easily walk from the train station to all the attractions in the Altstadt (Old Town). AE. usually the first week in September and the second week in March. and bus network. within easy walking distance of the train station and just across from the new museum of fine arts. Tram: 15. www. reliable choice for leisure or business travelers (it tends to attract more business travelers because of the array of amenities and executive-level services it offers). The commentary is in German only. Rooms are comfortable and good-sized (with beds that beat the Westin’s for comfort). runs the city’s tram. The lobby will be reconfigured and all the rooms freshened up in 2007 (the hotel’s tenth anniversary). Staying in Leipzig Twice a year. booking your room in advance is essential. and the bathrooms all have tub/shower combinations. An Einzelfahrkarte (single ticket) in “Zone Leipzig” costs 1.m. to 2 p. to 4 p. 225. Fares are based on zones.m. this hotel has 92 rooms redecorated to reflect the original neoclassical styling. Leipzig is the site of huge trade fairs that bring in tens of thousands of visitors. You can purchase tickets from automated machines at the stops. 04105 Leipzig. to 6 p.S. www. An on-site health club has a pool and a sauna. Rates: 265€– 300€ ($331–$375) double. DC. % 800-426-3135 in the U. The Leipzig Marriott is a good. open Monday through Friday from 9 a. If you travel to Leipzig during those periods.. and the breakfast buffet is great. Richard-WagnerStrasse 1 (% 0341/710-4260. Tröndlinring 8.m.m.226 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding information and taking a tour Pick up a city map at the tourist information office.m. Leipzig Marriott Hotel $ –$$$ City Center Fans of Marriott hotels won’t find any surprises in this one. for 12€ ($15). You can also book a hotel room here and purchase tickets for concerts and sightseeing tours.leipzig. is a major plus. The tourist office offers a 90-minute city-sightseeing tour daily at 11 a. www. or 0341/1400. SBahn (surface trains). The friendly.60€ ($2).. . the public transit authority. The rejuvenated bathrooms are nicely done and have a combination tub and shower. and Sunday 9 a.m. Hotel Fürstenhof $$$$ City Center Housed in a historic 18th-century building. but that’s the point. helpful service here is a real recommendation. Fax: 0341/

-Lehmann-Str. Hu Dantestr. Mockauer/Volbedingstr. R r i o H tt D tz K u sd R. u i Lößnig H he 8 w S tr. 12 1 Südplatz Stieglitzstr. str Theresienstr. e r r r r n n Str. Connewitz s 5 Wildpark Klemmur. h c c s ns 2 15 10 16 ho f 9 a e c Bahnhof Markkleeberg.-Eisner Str.-Segerr.Bar Merseburger aue rbrü Bf. h t Ku str. Coppistr.-Eisner-/ S1 Altes Messegelände A. 2 An Sc uer Sc Südfriedhof 3 Mathildenstr. eis tr.-Liebknecht-Platz e Pfingstweide Gorkistr. Paunsdorf-Nord Paunsdorf-Nord Südstr. St st rst lle lst Str -St ge An den Tierkliniken us ta A. en ue Ostplatz St ö tte r S r.-Hoffmann-/ Ad nn er-/ nnße se er r A atze bo y a r s l e e La per u e i . Virchow-/ Mosenthinstr. ö K Na tr. Wahren Heiterblick. Volbedingstr.-Lehmann-Str. vd ew isbahnhof h rk Lin A EdlichPlo Ki Am Sc Pa Grü Saa nn tsw nit str str. Barnecker Str.A ll f. b M t s i a ö l . Diakonissenhaus s . .14 K. ritz rü ilti Wilh. er / M f. Völkerschlachtdenkmal R. resl eiß ath olm ötte .. 10 Eutritzscher Markt 11 Portitzer Allee Döringstr. Teslastr. . Ku Zs ll z ls te r tte Neues Rathaus He erse rit tr. t Meusdorf Parkstr. 4 3 18 dt rm Herwegh-Str. r z e F L 11 lit rk est Markkleeberg-West ö e D l w m e 12 r k u 9 se Se in pe as 13 hw tr. Ka Al zn lagw .-Schumann-/ Möchern Hist. str. G Fe No str r A her Riebeck-/Oststr. Marienbrunn c Prager/Russenstr.-Schmidt-Str. and Weimar Wiederitzsch-Mitte Neue Messe Messegelände 16 GeorgDachauer Str. Hamburger Schönefeld. Karolusstr.-Lehmann-/ ch Naunhofer Str.-Heine-/ le e Roßplatz Riebeck/ str.-Lampel-Str. a i e Kir ön al nau rlän Lindenau de ng To Wurzen Jupiterstr. . Landsberger Str. S-Bf. E s r Hauptl v Str. Sc Fre Al Lü Sta St Viertelsweg P Sc Pittlerstr. . Mockau. . Schönefeld. Post Taucha. d u Gottschallc h s e m o m e ic ir h 1 S. S-Bf. eg z. Rathaus Str rn S tr Apelstr. Engelsdorf S3 eri Re Köh Goerdelerring Augustus. Ph. en diu Lind iet urg Heinßers t r n e i r t n a r e e r Gutenbergplatz n S n .A. V l l l k k k 16 rk ut M a a Borna To S1 M 18 Kn 227 Leipzig S-Bahn . Markranstäder Str. t n i t i b Landsberger/M. B W R K St L -B Bayrischer S . Krankenhaus Thekla Bis er W . ns G. T. . Meu Str. p r Paunsdorf-Center f Volksgarten Wilh.-Liebknecht-/ Deutsche Bücherei 2 .. r c fm Trams rf ka zm /G m tz M st ar er/R s K o e a a a e z . H. Böhlitz-Ehrenberg Heisenbergstr. Sommerfeld tö ne -Eis . Elster-Passage S1 S Johannisallee Holbeinstr. S3 Rödelstr. ch ud ler ha atz S-Bf.-Schwarz-/L.-Hupfeld-Str. k zs or str eri 10 oß nd Ring ed ine i Gr Wi r. Paunsdorfer Allee/ Fr.-HoffmannK.-Schumann-/ Wilheminenstr. W lip c s i h E 11 14 ow Sc rg g m h r 3 A irc be be st Großstädteln.Jo pl r. hk Mod Hän str. Stu höna to Connewitz. G ee Bf. . Hohentichelnstr. 4 S-Bahn Prager/Riebeck Str. Lützowstr. ke z . zs Menckestr. Chapter 14: Dresden.-Liebknecht-/ S-Bf. tr. chb uer ee er A der S-Bf. Annaberger Str. ke cher er t Str. Hornbach Baumarkt e el Freiligrathstr.nze Curschmannstr.Waldplatz Sportforum Leibnizstr.Liebermann-Str.-Reis-Str. r a t a schlößchen a S m st l 8 15 Zoo 7 8 18 au rb Am Vorwerk -P -St tr. Mockau. An der Märchenwiese 6 . ha Str. Hermelinstr. m e e n S Strbf. tr. g i r f t n t R.-Jahn-Str. Ossietzky-/ a tr. Coppiplatz Eutritzscher Zentrum 7 Friedrichshafner Str. P -Platz S-B S-B Str. tr. Permoser/Torgauer c G. ue r. Leutzsch Bautzner Str. G tz a ner A n Nord z itz z . Marschner-C tze lsru M it z na r Stö aue est aus str. t Leuschner f f Stötteritzer Clara-Zetkin-Park B ü S Witzgallstr. Probstheida Triftweg S-Bf. 1 n ie ar . K.-H Str. ns r Moritz-Hof 7 tte r ze tr. Industriegelände West rs z a e t ch e S3 Hauptt . Hermelinstr. O kt . Wiebelstr. Ar t Roseggerstr. Platz S-B Hohe Str. u r s r platz S-Bf. Gohlis S-Bf. Taucha s 12 n 14 Taucha ck 9 r e e a d Gohlislle m Beyerleinstr. Wielandstr. Bahnhof 15 ee ee O . ma Ost Th. Thomaskirche . Strbf. Zwickauer Str. ar eg Eutritzsch. Leipzig. u ta t Gohlis. Paunsdorf. R .-NA. lle Str erg Ri Ein Saturnstr. r S Str. r Raschwitz Forsthaus Markleeberg. G t . Kirche a el di elw hen er h ud tr. f Merseburger Str. Forstweg e ke erh sstr ims euss ras Miltitz f e l L L g l F t o . e le ue K. Ahornstr. thaler Str. lat hn Str. tzs gelKoburger Brücke 4 Hildebrandstr. . .Westplatz ten er Breite Str. Chauseehaus Str. hk tzs ah tsc aetz Delitzscher/Essener Str. yg L. Anger-Crottendorf S lle sst ena e-/ tr. Pfeffingerstr. bahnhof m ist erts ieb L. Kreuz hw Str Völkerschlachtdenkmal pl. Sommerfeld Rathaus Leutzsch r S platz W t Am Mückenn nn n S-Bf.. Körnerstr. L cke bein enb NordS-B ied Stallbaumstr. e e e e t h r a K. R b K. Lortzinge M G. Dessauer Str.-Schwarz-/ n u he H s c H r ba Se Fr. Paunsdorf Borsdorf S-Bf. O. Wittenberger Str.-Körner-Str. s u z ö Permoserstr. r r .

S. V. 225. Specialties include Saxon potato soup with wurst. but this city is not particularly well known for its culinary scene. DC. MC. pool. % 0341/ Reservations Rates include breakfast buffet.–3:30 p. This full-service hotel contains a health club. Regional cooking favors hearty portions and simple. 6. You can dine out on the porch in warm weather. V. Tram: 4. but the old ones are comfortably furnished and have good-sized bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. the cuisine is good. DC. www. 04109 Leipzig. AE.m. Tram: 4 or 6. The restaurant is named after one of the old pleasure gardens that used to adorn Leipzig. and has room service.m. The hotel is a convenient five-minute walk from the train station. with its painted ceiling. See map and one of its finest modern hotels. Rates: 99€–164€ ($124–$205) double. Am Hallischen Tor 1. is known for its home-style German food. contemporary style. Rates: 145€–235€ ($181–$294) double. Not all rooms have been upgraded (the new ones are on the highest floors). Although more robust than refined.228 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. AE.50€–16€ ($10–$20). in a quiet Leipzig neighborhood close to the Altstadt. Gerberstrasse 15. or 0341/96530. Kolonnadenstrasse 2. and within easy walking distance of all the sights in the Altstadt. Tram: 3. Apels Garten $ –$$ GERMAN/SAXON This restaurant. 10. 8. to midnight. and Canada. or 0341/9880. AE. Guests have a choice of the Historic Rooms (dinner only) or the Big Room (lunch and dinner). The restaurant Brühl serves traditional German food. Dining in Leipzig More restaurants are opening in Leipzig all the time. 04105 Leipzig. www. while Yamato is one of the best places in Leipzig for Japanese food. % 800-327-0200 in the U. 225. roast duck with arugula. and sauna. Open: Mon– Sat 11:30 a. It was an Inter-Continental hotel until 2003.S. 11. Sun 10 a. The menu features regional cuisine of Saxony. MC. The Westin Leipzig $$$ –$$$$ City Center One of the city’s tallest buildings. Main courses: 7. the 27-story Westin reflects the Leipzig of today. and pork steaks. V. or 13. filling ingredients. See map p. The décor is nostalgically oldfashioned. % 800/426-3135 in the U. MC. such as . Fax: 0341/988-1229. Fax: 0341/965-3999. when Westin took over and began redecorating the 447 rooms in a sleek. 225. Auerbachs Keller $ –$$ SAXON/INTERNATIONAL A group of sculpted bronze characters from Goethe’s play Faust adorns the staircase leading down to this famous medieval cellar restaurant where Goethe had Faust debate Mephistopheles.

V. each offering the same menu. To the west rises the high-pitched roof of the 1. Weisswurst (steamed pork sausage) from Munich. See map p. The menu emphasizes boiled meats such as Tafelspitz (beef) with heavy sauces. AE. Kids enjoy the underground atmosphere and usually can find something on the menu to their liking. or Rostbratwurst (roasted sausages) from Nuremberg. home of Auerbachs Keller (see “Dining in Leipzig” earlier in this chapter). is the Königshaus (King’s House). behind a statue of Goethe as a student. Most of the old and the new Leipzig that has appeal for visitors is concentrated in the Zentrum (City Center). Just east of the Marktplatz is the 12thcentury Nikolaikirche (St. the Alte Börse was the first baroque building in Leipzig. Mädlerpassage. where Bach served as choirmaster for 27 years. stands the yellow-and-white Alte Börse (Old Produce Exchange). DC. Renaissance Altes Rathaus. MC. Reservations recommended for dinner in Historic Rooms. See map p. Main courses: 8€–19€ ($10–$24). The summer courtyard within the building is the nicest place to dine. to midnight. and Weimar 229 warmes Bratenneckchen (roasted pork on brown bread with a pepper dip). 225. Thomas Church). % 0341/211-3115. Big Room daily 11:30 a. housed in an 18th-century rococo building. Across from this house. (Peter the Great of Russia and Napoleon also stayed there. a small. Nicholas Church). Exploring Leipzig Bombing in 1943 destroyed about one-quarter of Leipzig. the city’s best-known square. popular restaurant. to midnight.) In the neighboring Naschmarkt. Open: Historic Rooms Mon–Sat 6 p. . Open: Daily 11 a. % 0341/216-100. Paulaner Palais $ GERMAN/BAVARIAN/AUSTRIAN This large. Reconstructed on the north side of the square is the step-gabled Renaissance Alte Waage (Old Weighing House). Reservations recommended.m. a famous arcade of shops and restaurants. Leipzig.000-year-old Thomaskirche (St. AE. V.m. Tram: 4 or 6. once used by the rulers of Saxony as a royal guesthouse. to midnight.Chapter 14: Dresden. The Universität Leipzig (Leipzig University) occupies the area south of Grimmaisch-Strasse. On the east side of the square is the long. MC. with curving stairs and stucco garlands above the windows. Grimmaischestrasse 2–4. 225. but you can also get Saxon Sauerbraten. where demonstrators for democracy gathered in 1989. Tram: 4 or 6. The only beer they serve is the Munich-brewed Paulaner Bier. easily walked area south of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). The city has placed more of an emphasis on constructing the new than on restoring the old. on the south side of the square. gabled. along with a selection of international dishes. Klostergasse 3–5.m. A short walk leads to the pastel baroque houses along Katharinenstrasse and the Brühl. completed in 1687. has a restaurant and a more casual pub section. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). Remnants of old Leipzig have been reconstructed around the Markt. To the south of Marktplatz is the Mädlerpassage.

You can see everything in this small museum in about half an hour. In Leipzig. houses Leipzig’s arts and crafts. Grassi Museum Completed in 1929. Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (% 0341/913-7333. if you love Bach. S. Every May. during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche and other venues around town. He came to Leipzig at the age of 38 to be choirmaster and director of the Thomaskirche’s boys’ choir and director of music at Leipzig University.. Bach was the father of no fewer than 17 children (4 by his first wife. Many mementos of the composer. jointed doll dating from 1526. ethnography. and stayed for the rest of his life. An excellent audio guide in English is included in the price of admission. including scores and letters.m. Bach wrote more than 200 cantatas. and musical instruments collections. the Grassi Museum. See map p. www. Tram: 21. the three museums in the Grassi complex are scheduled to reopen in 2007. % 0341/222-9100) displays an array of handmade objects from the Middle Ages up to the early 20th century. % 0341/ 973-1900) displays highlights from the permanent collection of .50) family ticket. on Johannis-Platz just east of the and glassware. Bach’s. You find beautiful examples of furniture. Three of his sons. Sun 11 a.m. ߜ The Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum of Ethnography. Bach-Museum This reconstructed house standing in the shadow of the Thomaskirche once was home to the Bose family. Tours: Fri 3 p. to the east of the Nikolaikirche and the university. The house now contains the largest Bach archive in Germany.m. After years of restoration. 13 with his second). also became composers. The immense and not very attractive new opera house occupies the north side of the square. serves as the cultural heart of modern Leipzig. the Neues Gewandhaus concert hall stands on the south. Thomaskirchhof 16. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults.m. you’ll be tempted to linger. Carl Philipp Emanuel.m. ߜ The Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Applied Arts Museum.230 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bach in Leipzig The composer Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750) is Leipzig’s most famous citizen.bach-leipzig. friends of 225. Sat 2 p. % 0341/964-4133. the Passion According to St. Open: Daily 10 a. and the Mass in B Minor.bach-leipzig. porcelain. Johann Christian. 6€ ($7.m.–5 p. are on display. Look for the extremely rare. and Wilhelm Friedemann. www. and 3 p. Matthew.. Augustus-Platz.

6.). mdbk.). Museum in der Runden Ecke (Stasi Museum) This chillingly fascinating museum is housed in the building that once was the headquarters of the dreaded Stasi (short for Staatssicherheit. free on second Sun of the month. You may want to spend a few minutes here.m. The museum is open late on Thursday (until 8 p. but be aware that none of the exhibits are translated into English. See map p. 15. and Weimar 231 cultural artifacts relating to the peoples of the world. cube-shaped building on Sachsenplatz. Nicholas Church) The present church was built in the 16th century and has a white. www.–6 p. Admission: 5€ ($6. 10€ ($13) family ticket. Admission: Combined ticket for 2 museums 5€ ($6. a group of 10.m. Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) In late 2005.–6 p. An exhibition called “The Power and Banality of the East German Secret Police” documents the meticulous and paranoid methods by which Stasi agents monitored every exchange of information in East Germany. See map p. Founded in 1837. Bus: 8. 21.25) adults. or 24. www.50) children and students. 1989. European art of the 15th and 16th centuries.–6 p. Dittrichring 24. 3. Allow at least an hour just to stroll through. neoclassical interior. but it also displays Dutch and Flemish art of the 17th century (including a lively Frans Hals). (Wed noon to 8 p. Johannisplatz 5–11.000 demonstrators gathered with candles and began the peaceful revolution that toppled the . 4. you may find you’re the only person there. the East German Ministry for State Security.m. Leipzig.m.grassimuseum. Open: Tues and Thurs–Sun 10 a. one of Germany’s most important art collections reopened in a new $ 100-million glass-and-steel. Leipzig’s Museum of Fine Arts is especially strong in German painting of the 19th century (including works by that quintessential Romantic. Tram: local citizens took a giant step toward toppling the government of East Germany when they seized this building. Katharinenstrasse 101 (on Sachsenplatz).runde-ecke-leipzig. Open: Daily 10 a. Tram: 1. 61 years to the day after its original home was destroyed by a bomb in WWII. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. confiscating private letters and listening in on phone conversations. The new building is a serenely handsome affair that hasn’t quite caught on with the public yet. 225. 2. On this site in 1989. % 0341/21-69-90.Chapter 14: Dresden. Admission: Free. Nikolaikirche (St. de. ߜ The Museum für Musikinstrumente (Musical Instruments Museum. or “state security”). Caspar David Friedrich).de.25) adults. German. Tram: 21. On the nights of December 4 and 5. and French musical instruments of the 16th to the 19th centuries.m. considered one of the best of its kind in the world. www.m. exhibits Italian. 225. A nice little cafe is located on the premises (open the same hours as the museum). See map p. % 0341/973-0750). 17. and contemporary works.m.50€ ($4. % 0341/961-2443. 225.

6. Bach wrote his great cantatas for the Thomanerchor.m.m.” the exhibit may help you better understand contemporary German history.m.m. Give yourself at least an hour. newsreels. See map p. Tram: 4. Tram: 4. Thomaskirchhof 18 (just off Marktplatz). The movement started as a prayer group in the Nikolaikirche in 1982. Admission: Free.m.. Described as a place of “living remembrance. lined with chic. with about 140 shops and cafes that open between 6:30 and 9 a. audio. or 8. the exhibit uses photos. 4. the church’s famous boys’ choir. centrally located outdoor market that sells vegetables.–5 p. meats. on weekdays and 4 p.m. sophisticated. open Monday through Saturday. See map p. See map p. Mädlerpassage is Leipzig’s finest arcade. on Saturday. 15.232 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany GDR.–6 p. Admission: Free. and close at 10 p. documents. and a bit of everything. % 0341/22200. 6. and the events that triggered the fall of the GDR. 8.m. 11. The church was built on the site of a 13thcentury monastery and was heavily restored after WWII and again after reunification. cheeses. plants. Open: Tues–Fri 9 a.–6 p. His body was moved here in 1950 on the 200th anniversary of his death and reburied in front of the altar.m. Tram: 2. Open: Daily 8 a. expensive boutiques. or 13.m. 225. Sat–Sun 10 a. Set up chronologically. or 20. 10. 6. is a lively. Both Mozart and Mendelssohn also performed in the Thomaskirche. The Naschmarkt. 225. Shopping in Leipzig Exploring the handsomely restored Art Nouveau Arkaden (arcades) that thread through the historic core of Leipzig is fun. 225. % 0341/960-2855. was choirmaster in this church from 1723 until his death 27 years later. Its high-pitched roof dates from 1496. the choir presents concerts every Sunday morning and Friday evening. Leipzig’s Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) recently was transformed into a giant shopping mall. When it isn’t touring. Thomaskirche (St. Nikolaikirchhof. Admission: Free. Thomas Church) Leipzig’s most famous resident. Open daily in December in front of the Altes Rathaus. what life was like in Communist East Germany. Open: Daily 9 a. Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) I recommend that anyone traveling to Leipzig visit this free multimedia exhibition.m.m. and memorabilia to guide you through the tumultuous last half-century in eastern Germany. East Germany’s Communist government. Grimmaische Strasse 6. % 0341/960-5270. Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a tradition dating back to . Johann Sebastian Bach.–6 p. first organized in the 13th century. and Richard Wagner was christened here in 1813.

de. Goethe. Some of the country’s most revered painters.m. and Weimar 233 1767. or 15). and composers made their homes in this small Thuringian town on the River Ilm. gewandhaus.–8 p. Tram: 4. 12. Live music is performed Thursday through Saturday. Tram: 4. Attending a concert by this great orchestra is a special treat. is the hippest bar and cafe in Leipzig. Tram: 4 or 6).) sell a variety of craft items and Christmas food and drink. because the first Bauhaus School of Art and Design was founded . The area around the Markt is full of bars. Its home is the Opernhaus. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 30€ ($12–$37). a concert hall built in 1981. Leipzig’s main theater. writers.000-year-old town that once was a center of the German Enlightenment. For a sampling of lively cafes. Augustusplatz (% 0341/127-0280. a or 15). because the German national assembly met here in 1919 to draw up the constitution for the ill-fated Weimar Republic. www.Chapter 14: Dresden. or spent portions of their creative lives here. cafes. which honors Goethe and the Faust legend. Leipzig. 5. 15. The town is well known to architecture buffs. is the home of the world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra. Special organ concerts and performances of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and Handel’s Messiah also take place. and Brahms. The Neues Gewandhaus. Weimar also is famous in the history of Germany. 12. 6. 21. just south of the Altes Rathaus. Germany’s first democratic government after World War I (WWI). 13. Mephisto Bar. Augustusplatz 8 (% 0341/ 126-1261. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 45€ ($13–$56). is one of Germany’s greatest cultural shrines. Stalls (open daily 10 a. and other entertainment options. Mendelssohn. or 24). Schubert. from opera and classical concerts to late-night bars and discos. great for people-watching. Bosestrasse 1 (% 0341/ 12680. http://oper-leipzig. Mädlerpassage (% 0341/216-100. beginning around 8 p. considered Germany’s greatest literary genius. Discovering nightlife in Leipzig Leipzig’s active nightlife offers something for everyone.m. lived and worked in Weimar for 50 years. Founded in 1781.m. 13. opposite the Neues Gewandhaus. Tram: 1. Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment Beautiful Weimar (vie-mar). Ticket prices for opera and ballet range from 9€ to 60€ ($11–$75). The Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera) is one of Germany’s most acclaimed opera companies. 2. is home to several arts companies that stage a mix of theatrical and musical productions in German. the Schauspielhaus. 5. walk down Barfüssergässchen. 4. 17. the orchestra premiered works by Beethoven.

to 6 p. Good train connections to Weimar’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) are available from anywhere in Germany. the local entertainment listings magazine. Finding information and taking a tour Tourist-Information am Markt. de). turning off at Hermsdorfer Kreuz for Weimar. Getting there Weimar lies 262km (162 miles) southwest of Berlin. in part because its old winding streets are sprinkled with the homes (now museums) of famous The tourist office offers a two-hour walking tour (in German) of Weimar daily at 10 a. hides a stylishly . and Dresden.bahn. the price is 6€ ($7. fronting Weimar’s picturesque marketplace. to 3 p. www. even Hitler. Weimar is a joy to explore. Takt. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$$ –$$$$ City Center The Hotel Elephant is Weimar’s most famous hotel. Markt 10 (% 03643/7450..50) for adults. 118km (74 miles) southwest of Leipzig.weimar. Weimar was not completely destroyed by bombs in WWII.m. The meeting point is the tourist information office. with a past guest roster that includes Bach. new hotels have opened throughout Weimar. but because Weimar offers plenty to see. Staying in Weimar Since reunification.m. During WWII. 4€ ($5) for students. By car.m. or the A9 Autobahn between Berlin and Munich. and 2 p. you can reach Weimar via the A4 Autobahn linking Frankfurt and Dresden.m. The elegant late-17th-century facade.m. and 215km (134 miles) southwest of Dresden. Fast InterCity Express (ICE) trains run from Frankfurt. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. and Weimar is a stop on the InterRegio express train between Frankfurt and Berlin.234 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany here in 1919. the Nazis established the concentration camp Buchenwald on the outskirts of this city. children younger than 14 free. call % 11861 or visit the Deutsche Bahn Web site (www. often in historic buildings. Weimar is an easy daytrip from Leipzig or Dresden. Leipzig. is available free. Enough of old Weimar remains to give you a good sense of what the town was like when Goethe lived there.m. For rail information and schedules. Tolstoy. in the town’s central marketplace. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. Unlike Dresden and Leipzig. you may want to spend the night. The tourist offices listed earlier under “Finding information and taking a tour” also can help you find a hotel room or pension. Buy tickets at the tourist office.

e 10 ng Bauhaus Universität Weimar 11 PARK K A R AN D E R ILM str.Chapter 14: Dresden. Lieb Schwa nseestr Rollplatz asse Johannis kirche e e-stras se H -He i n platz s -g . 8 8 Demokratie or n Am H instr.- Goetheplatz Graben Karlstra Stadtkirche St. tst old Ama nech t ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Hotel Kaiserin Augusta 1 DINING Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Zum Schwarzen Bären 7 Haus k rastr Coud Fr. Leipzig. mb Hu r. rg as se Brüh l WEIMARHALLENPARK To Buchenwald Frieden str. 2 Erf urt er Str ass Nationaltheater e 3 Theater. Be lv e R. Information i ATTRACTIONS Bauhaus-Museum 3 Goethes Gartenhaus 10 Goethes Wohnhaus & Goethe Nationalmuseum 9 Liszt-Haus 11 Schillers Wohnhaus 6 Schloss Belvedere 12 Schlossmuseum 2 Weimar Haus– Das Geschichtserlebnis 4 Wittumspalais 5 de A rer e lle .-F W rell ag igra ne th str. Peter und Paul HerderEisfeld sse lKege e c rü B k asse Eng els Ri Leibn izalle e Sch il r a s se Puschk Stub enst rass 9 Pl. d.4 Deutsches platz 5 M ar le rst 6 LucasRathaus i Markt CranachHaus 7 se k t stras Sc h Burgplatz Stern Brück e Ilm l os Sch ube rtstr asse Ilm Acker-w Ma rien trass e and Corona-Schroter Str. Breitsc heidstr. and Weimar 235 Weimar F. 12 Berlin GERMANY Weimar liens CEMETERY Goethe-Schiller Mausoleum Str. To Train Station 1 0 0 1/10 mile 100 meters Jakobstraß e knech tstrass e N s aer Str a s Jen K.

arabellasheraton. Otherwise. some new restaurants with savvier cooking and better ingredients have opened. 11. Anna Amalia is modern and airy. and the buffet breakfast is good. 235.236 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany contemporary interior. among the best in the region. V. In October. Bus: 10. and very well maintained. See map p. Carl-August-Allee 17. Bathrooms are small and have showers only. Weimar is not a city renowned for its culinary past. or 71. See map p. See map p. AE.m. V. try local specialties such as sweet-and-sour Thuringian pot roast with dumplings or Thuringian-style grilled bratwurst on sauerkraut with puréed peas. this restaurant serves specialty onion salads. with pearwood furniture and Art Deco 99423 Weimar. Rates include buffet breakfast. most have a tub/shower combination.m. Bathrooms are large. Elephantenkeller 6€–16€ ($7–$20). a garden terrace. Hotel Kaiserin Augusta $ –$$ City Center This good. when Weimar’s famous Zwiebelmarkt (onion market) is open (a tradition dating back to 1653). and 6–11 p. Elephantenkeller Thurs–Tues noon to 3 a. a dress-up sort of place with beautifully set tables. Am Markt 19. Am Markt 19. Main courses: Anna Amalia 16€–26($20–$32).de. convenient. but they are fully equipped. 235. AE. The 134 rooms are not large or luxurious. The 99 rooms come in different sizes but are furnished basically the same. comfortable. Open: Anna Amalia daily 6:30–10:30 p. Rates: 169€–235€ ($211–$293) double.m. MC. and good service. 11. % 03643/2340. Dining in Weimar As with Leipzig. Since reunification. 235.hotel-kaiserin-augusta. V. www. DC. however. Bus: 10. make use of local produce and ingredients. % 03643/802-639. Reservations recommended. 99423 Weimar. DC. www. % 03643/8020. Rates: 77€–139€ ($96–$174) double. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. or 71. MC. MC. a place for casual dining in a rustic atmosphere. .. Breakfast costs an additional 18€ ($ 22). Down one flight of steps is the historic Elephantenkeller (Elephant Cellar). Its Italian dishes. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$ –$$$ GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Weimar’s oldest hotel has two restaurants. Fax: 03643/802-610. moderately priced hotel sits right across the street from the train station. The staff is friendly. Fax: 03643/234444.

235. schnitzel with potatoes. Nothing is fancy about it.–6 p. Duchess Anna Amalia. Theaterplatz. Main courses: 7€–15€ ($9–$19). Duke Karl. with its large park. See map p.50€ ($5. set against the backdrop of the Ettersberg and Vogtland hills. suicidal artist. remains the lively heart of the old city.50) seniors and students. 5. The museum is fairly compact. an important architect-designer of Art Nouveau. 3.” Thanks to Goethe and his friends. and pork medallions with Gorgonzola sauce. Bus: 1. with broad. His mother. Open: Daily 10 a. to midnight. MC. Goethe wrote the play Faust. Leipzig. Goethe’s patron.50€ ($4. 3. furniture. rumpsteak. hefty meal for a reasonable cost. Surrounding the Altstadt is the newer Weimar. and toys collected by the school’s director. which had become a sensation throughout Europe for its depiction of a suffering. or 71. 6. Markt.50) adults. classically inspired rationalism to German art and literature. which were referred to as the “Court of the Muses. 235.Chapter 14: Dresden. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832) was invited to the duchy of Weimar by the teenaged Duke Karl August. . the architect Walter Gropius. One room showcases the work of Henry van de Velde. Bus: 10. particularly the playwright Friedrich Schiller. set the tone for the salons. entertaining people. and Weimar 237 Goethe and the court of Weimar In 1775. the town’s main square. but you can get a good. In Weimar. % 03643/853-847. this restaurant is Weimar’s oldest.m. which brought a new. the little duchy of Weimar gained renown as a center of the German Enlightenment (Erklärung).m. Markt 20. tea sets. treelined boulevards and many 19th-century buildings. the work for which he is most famous. The collection of Bauhaus memorabilia includes rugs. 2. which was founded in Weimar in 1919 and sought to unify arts and crafts within the context of architecture. or 7. so you can see everything in about half an hour. % 03643/564-161. 11.m. wanted to surround himself with clever. has many historic sights. Goethe’s fame rested on the novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. Open: Daily 11 a. all of which you can easily see on foot. architectural drawings. Dishes include potato soup with sausage. The Altstadt (Old City). Admission: 4. V. Exploring Weimar Weimar enjoys a scenic location on the Ilm River. Zum Schwarzen Bären $ THURINGIAN Located next door to the Hotel Elephant. See map p. Bauhaus-Museum The focus of this museum is the Bauhaus movement.

or 12. some of them pretty much as Goethe and his wife. The house is . 2. 1832.50€ ($3) students and children. located just up the street from Goethe’s house.–6 p. spent the last period of his life in this house located at the west entrance of Park an der Ilm.50€ ($8) adults. and designed special cabinets to display his Italian majolica plates. Marienstrasse 17. was Goethe’s first residence when he came to Weimar in 1775 as a guest of Duke Karl August. Open: House and museum daily 9 a. See map p. in less than 15 minutes.25) students and seniors. % 03643/545-375.. He lived with his family in this house.238 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Goethes Gartenhaus (Goethe’s Garden House) This simple stone cottage with a high-pitched roof.50€ ($3). Bus: 1. 5. See map p. Christiane. 235. from 1802 to 1805. Liszt-Haus Franz Liszt. 10. 6. When Goethe returned from Italy. Throughout his life. Tours (in German): Tues and Fri at 1 p. Letters and other personal and musical mementos also are on view. The house is part of the adjoined Goethe National Museum. Frauenplan 1.–6 p. Schillers Wohnhaus (Schiller House) After his friend Goethe. enlarged in the 17th century. he replaced the baroque staircase with broad stairs in the style of the Italian Renaissance.m.m.40) adults. Liszt gathered young musicians around him in the high-ceilinged. but the museum requires a separate admission. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe House) and Goethe Nationalmuseum The large baroque house where Goethe lived from 1782 to 1832 is Weimar’s most popular attraction. Bus: 1. The structure was built as a garden house in the 16th century. The house has 14 rooms. In the museum.–6 p. overflowing with enthusiasm for all things Italian.50) students and children younger than 12. longer if you’re a Goethe fan. 5€ ($6. 2.m. See map p. Displayed in the redcarpeted salon are one of Liszt’s pianos and the portable clavichord he used to exercise his fingers while he was traveling. Bus: 1. You need about half an hour to see everything.50€ ($4. 235. and his reception room a calming blue. Goethe died in his sparsely furnished bedchamber on March 22. which has a few pieces of period furniture. Admission: 2.m. left them. the Hungarian composer and most famous pianist of the 19th century. % 03643/545-320. and reconstructed in 1996 according to the plans of 1820. located in the bucolic park on the Ilm River. or 12. 235. 2. an audio guide in English is available. Believing that colors affect mood. Goethe used the house as a summer retreat. You can see the interior. his study a soothing green. or 8. Open: Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. % 03643/545-388.m.50€ ($3) adults. Goethe had his dining room painted a sunny yellow. Admission: 3.m. when he was 82 years old. you find more Goethe memorabilia. Friedrich von Schiller (1759–1805) is the greatest name in German literature. filled the house with casts of ancient busts and statues. Open: Daily 10 a. Im Park an der Ilm.m. Admission: House and museum 6. handsomely furnished rooms. 10. 2€ ($2.

theater sets. and children. Schiller wrote his last works. Admission: 6. Schillerstrasse 16–18. 3. 2.10) seniors. Admission: 3. Belvederer Allee. and expressionist paintings by Max Beckmann and Max Lieberman. Bus: 1. Open: Daily. students. In the attic rooms.50€ ($3.–4 p. 3€ ($3.m.50€ ($4. or 8.000 B. You can visit both in about two hours. 1€ ($1. Weimar Haus–Das Geschichtserlebnis (Weimar House–The Weimar Story) This multimedia attraction provides a basic introduction to Weimar’s history. winter 10 a. The English-style park was laid out between 1814 and 1840.–6 p. 3. Leipzig. Belvedere Palace was a favorite retreat of Duchess Anna Amalia and her son’s “enlightened” Weimar court. 1.m.–6 p. 6.m. See map p. You can wander through the entire house in about 15 minutes.25) students.–6 p. Schloss Belvedere (Belvedere Palace) A pretty. The orangerie displays a collection of historical coaches. including Wilhelm Tell (William Tell). Goethe. 235. Flemish and Italian paintings. 5.m. Open: Palace Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. Bus: 12. 5. 235.m. 2. Schlossmuseum (Castle Museum) This neoclassical structure. baroque château located 3km (2 miles) south of Weimar. audio guides in English are available. 4.75) children. See map p. 5.. Nov–Mar 9 a. and other famous names associated with Weimar. Nov–Mar 10 a.m. 6.50€ ($2) children. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a.–6 p. 2. Schillerstrasse 12. % 03643/546-162.–4 p.50€ ($8) adults.50) adults.25) adults. Orangerie Jan–Apr Wed–Sun 11 a.m. summer 10 a. and Napoleon.. or 10. % 03643/546-160. and videotaped projections help tell Weimar’s story from the earliest settlers in 3. .m. Admission: Palace 4€ ($5) adults. Bus: 1.C. Admission: 5€ ($6.m. 7.Chapter 14: Dresden. % 03643/901-890. 235.. % 03643/545-350. Of more general interest are the painting galleries containing important works by Lucas Cranach the Elder (including a portrait of Martin Luther). Give yourself about 45 minutes to wander through the galleries. Luther. Schiller. begun in 1789 and completed in 1803. Burgplatz 4.50€ ($7) seniors.m.m.50€ ($3). and Weimar 239 furnished as it would have been in Schiller’s day. 4€ ($6) children. 5.m. Bus: 1.m.m. See map p. The tour lasts about 30 minutes.m.50) adults. See map p.–7 p. 2. or 6.m. through the time of Goethe. Tours (in German): Mon 1 p.. Open: Wed–Mon Apr–Oct 9 a. Orangerie 2€ ($2. 235.m. Wax figures created by artists who worked for London’s Madame Tussaud. 8. Inside the château. you find a collection of decorative art from the rococo period.–4 p. replaced the royal castle that burned down in 1774. The museum has a series of galleries dedicated to Schiller..

once the home of Johann Sebastian Bach. Theaterplatz. Bus: 1.. which leads to places associated with the great poet. Completed in 1767. Slavs. who presided over a “Court of the Muses. and many thousands of others were sent from here to death camps in the east. and art. take Bus No. 6 from Weimar’s main train station makes the trip northwest of town to Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial. 235.m. the Nazis set up one of their nightmare concentration camps. Tuesday to Sunday from 8:45 a. 3€ ($3. is the oldest town in the region and the capital of Thuringia. and philosophers met to discuss issues of science.m. is the starting point of a popular hiking trail known as Auf Goethes Spuren (In Goethe’s Footsteps). To reach the memorial. 5. long extolled by nature lovers for its scenic beauty.. 6 marked “Buchenwald. or 6. % 03643/545-377. See map p. to 5 p. Admission: 4€ ($5. devoted to mementos of the German Enlightenment. Soviet occupation forces also used the site as an internment camp.240 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Buchenwald: Remembering the past About 10km (6 miles) from Weimar.–4 p. has an extensive collection of paintings. honors the people from 32 nations who lost their lives at Buchenwald. to 6 p.225 ft. a 110km (68-mile) . The Nazis confined about a quarter of a million Jews. A memorial with a cluster of “larger than life” people. The museum reflects both the Soviet and the Nazi past of the camp. silhouettes (all the rage back then). Nov–Mar 10 a. Bus No.m.” Wittumspalais A short walk along Schillerstrasse from the Schiller House leads to the elegant Wittumspalais (vit-ooms-pa-lay). Army in 1945. in beech woods (Buchenwald) where Goethe and Schiller once walked. Between 1945 and 1951. % 03643/4300). At least 56. The house. and dozens of picturesque medieval villages dot the narrow. 3. spruce-clad mountains rise to about 985m (3.m. the site of the camp. old castles crown the tops of hills. and others in this work camp from 1937 until the camp’s liberation by the U.S.m.75) students and children.). Admission is free. representing victims of fascism. winding roads. poets. 4. thought. and costumes.– 6 p. If you want to explore this picturesque area by car.m.m. Later.000 people died at Buchenwald. 2. the “Widow’s Palace” was the residence of the widowed Dowager Duchess Anna Amalia. one of the great cities of German art and culture. Ilmenau. Exploring the Thuringian Forest Weimar sits in the northeastern corner of the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest).” where artists.m. Erfurt. 22km (14 miles) west of Weimar. the Soviets sent thousands of prisoners here to die. You can visit Buchenwald May through September.25) adults. homosexuals. Gypsies. Tuesday to Sunday from 9:45 a. a lively university town south of Arnstadt. political prisoners. October through April. Within the forest. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. Just south of Erfurt is picturesque Arnstadt. prisoners of war. doctors.

the National Congress passed the new democratic constitution that was the basis for the short-lived Weimar Republic. in 1919. and concerts at the tourist information centers or the theater box office. and furniture that survived the devastation of WWII. crystal. selling books only. Shopping in Weimar A visit to Weimar’s antiques stores offers a chance to buy porcelain. Schillerstrasse 22 (same phone). You find a good selection to choose from along Schillerstrasse and around Theaterplatz. and Thiersch Antikitäten. and Weimar 241 scenic road called the Thuringer Hochstrasse (Thuringian High Road) runs from Eisenach to Ilmenau. where Franz Liszt and Richard Strauss once conducted. prices range from 8€ to 35€ ($10–$37). Theaterplatz (% 03643/755-334). silver. dance.Chapter 14: Dresden. Goethe-Antiquariat. and its immediate neighbor. Also appealing are Antikitäten am Schloss. Obereschlossgasse 2 (% 03643/512-993). Schillerstrasse 22 (% 03643/59625). Kaiser Antikitäten. Leipzig. Weimar’s bars and outdoor cafes are good places to drink and talk into the night. Kaufenstrasse 7 (% 03643/402-567). Discovering nightlife in Weimar Weimar’s main performance venue is the Deutsches Nationaltheater (German National Theater). The most interesting shops include Antikitäten am Palais. . (This building is also where. Bräuhausgasse 15 (% 03643/402-540).) You can buy tickets for opera.

242 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .

Part IV Southern and Western Germany .

. and must-see attractions such as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. I also tell you about visiting the alpine resort towns of GarmischPartenkirchen and Oberammergau. . bucolic scenery. the cultural capital of southwest Germany. home to the cities of Freiburg and Baden-Baden. I tell you about boat trips through the river’s most scenic stretches. Germany’s most famous walled medieval city. You find everything you need to know about Germany’s secret capital: how to get there and get around. the beautiful capital of Bavaria. and Nuremberg (Nürnberg in German). how to find a fine hotel or restaurant. Chapter 18 covers three cities in western and central Germany: Heidelberg. famed for its woodcarvers. as you discover in this part. I devote Chapter 15 entirely to Munich. Going beyond Munich. the sophisticated city with the huge international airport that is the German port of entry for many international visitors. a lively city on the Rhine famous for its spectacular Gothic cathedral. the most dramatic of Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castles. including the Romantic Road. the romantic town on the Neckar River.outhern Germany is different from other regions in Germany. I highlight lovely Lake Constance. Chapter 19 is all about Cologne (Köln in German). and what to see. Chapter 20 is all about Frankfurt. an ideal driving tour loaded with unspoiled medieval towns. one of the most scenically delightful areas in all of Deutschland. I describe additional sightseeing possibilities in Bavaria. In case you’re eager to ride the Rhine. or Black Forest. and the Schwarzwald. in Chapter 16. with its picturesque corners and Gothic churches. known as the Bodensee in Germany. and Neuschwanstein. Easy day trips from Cologne include the wine-growing regions of the Mosel Valley and the Rheingau section of the Rhine Valley. Western Germany includes the popular and populous Rhineland region and many famous cities that are easy to reach and fun to explore. Stuttgart. In Chapter 17. S In this part . .

people gather in the giant beer halls and beer gardens to quaff liters of beer. sophisticated city. World-class museums. in German). Munich also is a rich. Walk through the Altstadt (Old Town) on a warm.Chapter 15 Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Munich ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Discovering the top attractions ᮣ Shopping for fashions. palaces. Think of Gemütlichkeit as a kind of cozy charm and you’ll get the picture. The city is all about prosperity and good-natured Gemütlichkeit. from January through February. eating. in every square. one of those hard-to-translate words that means something like cozy and/or good-natured. pronounced Mewn-shin. Munich is the Germans’ first choice as a desirable place to live. sunny day or a balmy night and you see people sitting outside. masked balls. and enjoying life. and theaters are part and parcel of life in the Bavarian capital. a whirl of colorful parades. . concert halls. and revelry. listen to the oom-pah-pah bands. which attracts some 7 million revelers. Throughout the year. If you believe the polls. and have a good time. with an unparalleled array of artistic and cultural treasures. the capital of Bavaria. the city goes into party mode again and celebrates Fasching (Carnival). starts in September and lasts for 16 days. food. and more ᮣ Enjoying Munich’s nightlife M unich (München. Oktoberfest.5 million people who live in Munich — think of the city as Germany’s secret capital. Many Germans — especially the 1. Before Lent. Oom-pah-pah aside. is a town that likes to celebrate. drinking. elegant. Munich offers so much to visitors that I recommend you give yourself at least three days here.

m. Munich’s coat of arms has included a figure of the Münchner Kindl. 1. You find a train information office on the mezzanine level.40€ ($10) adults. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. is one of Europe’s largest train stations. Opened in 1992. 5€ ($ is located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. The fare for the 40-minute trip is 8. www. restaurants. Connected to the rail station are the city’s extensive S-Bahn rapid-transit system and the U-Bahn (subway) system. Munich has no lack of transportation options.bahn.m. and 10:42 a.50) children. shopping.m.10€ ($1. or “little monk. Trains leave from the S-Bahn platform beneath the airport every 20 minutes daily between 4:02 a. By train You can easily reach Munich by train from any city in Germany or . www. you can also call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail. A taxi to the city center costs about 70€ ($87) and can take more than an hour if traffic is heavy.munich-airport. a small village located near a Benedictine abbey on the river Isar called itself Mönch. on Bahnhofplatz near the city center. Like Frankfurt. open daily from 7 a. German for “monk. and banking facilities. Daily trains arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 33⁄4 hours) and Berlin (trip time: 7 hours).m. less frequently through the night. The city is easily accessible from anywhere within Germany or Europe.” Getting There As one of Germany’s major cities. The Lufthansa Airport Bus (% 089/323-040) also runs between the airport and the main train station in Munich every 20 minutes from 5:10 a.246 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The little monk of Munich In the ninth century. Munich’s Hauptbahnhof. to 7:50 p. The S-8 S-Bahn (% 089/4142-4344) train connects the airport with the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in downtown Munich.. with a hotel. Munich has an international airport..25) for children.” Since that time. so you can fly there directly from the United States. the airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world. By plane Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss International Airport (% 089/9752-1313.m. to 8 p. % 11861 for train information and schedules [an English speaker will be available to help you].

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


By car
I do not recommend driving in Munich. Most of downtown is a pedestrian-only area — wonderful if you’re a walker, a nightmare if you’re a driver. Traffic jams are frequent, and parking spaces are elusive and costly. If you plan on making excursions into the countryside, renting a car in the city center instead of trekking out to the airport is more convenient. Car-rental companies with windows at the main train station include Avis (% 089/1260-000), Hertz (% 089/1295-001), and Sixt Autovermietung (% 089/550-2447).

Finding Information After You Arrive
Munich’s tourist office, Fremdenverkehrsamt München (% 089/23396500;, operates a tourist information center in the main train station (Bahnhofplatz 2, adjacent to the DER Reisebüro/ German Rail Travel Office). You can pick up a map of Munich, get information on cultural events, and book a hotel room. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. You find another branch of the tourist office in the city center at Marienplatz in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); hours are Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can make a hotel reservation online or at the main tourist office.

Orienting Yourself in Munich
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is an oval-shaped pedestrian-only district on the west bank of the Isar River. (See the “Munich Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.) Munich’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) lies just west of the Altstadt. Marienplatz, the Altstadt’s most important square, is where you find several important churches, the Residenz (former royal palace), the National Theater, and the Viktualienmarkt, a wonderfully lively outdoor market. Between Marienplatz and the National Theater is the Platzl quarter, famed for its nightlife, restaurants, and the landmark Hofbräuhaus, the most famous beer hall in the world. Odeonsplatz, to the north of Marienplatz, is Munich’s most beautiful square. Running west from Odeonsplatz is Briennerstrasse, a wide shopping avenue that leads to Königsplatz (King’s Square). Flanking this large square, in an area known as the Museum Quarter, are three neoclassical buildings constructed by Ludwig I and housing Munich’s antiquities: the Propyläen, the Glyptothek, and the Antikensammlungen. Another triad of world-famous art museums — the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Masters Gallery), and the Pinakothek Moderne Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art) — also lie in the Museum Quarter, just northeast of Königsplatz.

248 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Munich Neighborhoods


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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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250 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Ludwigstrasse connects the Altstadt with Schwabing, a former artists’ quarter located north of the Altstadt and known for its cafes, restaurants, and nightlife. Olympiapark, site of the 1972 Olympics, is northwest of Schwabing. The sprawling park known as the Englischer Garten is located east of Schwabing. East of the Isar River lie Bogenhausen and Haidhausen, leafy neighborhoods just outside the city center where you find some hotels and restaurants. Theresienwiese, site of the annual Oktoberfest, and Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace), one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces, are both located west of the Altstadt.

Getting Around Munich
Munich is a large city, only slightly smaller than Berlin or Hamburg. The best way to explore is by walking and using the excellent publictransportation system. Subways (U-Bahn), trams (Strassenbahn), buses, and light-rail lines (S-Bahn) make getting anywhere in the city easy. In the Altstadt, you can walk to all the attractions — in fact, you have to, because the Altstadt is a car-free zone. For information, call the publictransportation authority, MVV, at % 089/4142-4344, or visit it on the Web at

Using public transportation
You’ll probably use the underground U-Bahn (subway) and the aboveground Strassenbahn (tram) systems most frequently. The same ticket entitles you to ride U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses. Purchase tickets from vending machines marked Fahrkarten in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations; the machines display instructions in English. You also can buy tickets in the tram or from a bus driver. Tickets must then be validated in the machines found on platforms and in buses and trams; stick your ticket into the machine, which stamps it with the date and time. A validated ticket is valid for two hours. You can transfer as often as you like to any public transportation as long as you travel in the same direction. Munich has four concentric fare zones. Most, if not all, of your sightseeing will take place in Zone 1, which includes the city center. A single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) in Zone 1 costs 2.20€ ($2.75). The München Welcome Card, available at either Fremdenverkehrsamt München tourist information center, lets you ride all public transportation and offers discounts of up to 50 percent off on major tourist attractions and city tours. A tageskarte (day ticket) good for a day of travel within the city limits costs 6.50€ ($8) for adults, 2.30€ ($3) for children 6 to 14. A 3-tageskarte (three-day ticket) costs 12€ ($15). A partner 3-tageskarte, a three-day ticket good for two people traveling together, costs 20€ ($25). You can buy these cards from the ticket vending machines or at station ticket windows.

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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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252 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Catching a cab
Taxis are cream-colored, plentiful, and expensive. You can get a taxi at one of the stands located all across the city, or you can hail a cab on the street if its rooftop light is illuminated. Taxi fares begin at 2.70€ ($3.50); each additional kilometer costs 1.25€ to 1.60€ ($1.60–$2), depending on the distance; there’s an additional 1€ ($1.25) to order a taxi by phone. Call Taxizentrale at % 089/21610 for a radio-dispatched taxi.

Staying in Style
Hotels in Munich are more expensive than elsewhere in Germany, and rooms are scarce (and prices much higher) during Oktoberfest and when trade fairs are in town. I strongly recommend that you book your Munich hotel room in advance. I’ve weighted my choices toward hotels in central Munich. The highest prices in this section are for rooms during Oktoberfest and trade fairs. The Fremdenverkehrsamt (tourist office) in the main train station (see the “Finding Information After You Arrive” section earlier in this chapter) can book a room for you and give you a map with instructions for reaching it. The service is free, but the office collects a 10 percent deposit of the total value of the room; the hotel then deducts this amount from your bill. For locations, see the “Central Munich Accommodations and Dining” map in this chapter.

The top hotels
Here you can find a variety of great hotels. See also the listing for the outstanding Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München ($$$$) in Chapter 22.

Advokat Hotel
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt
You don’t find frills or froufrou in this streamlined 50-room hotel in a 1930s apartment building. The Advokat is strictly minimalist in approach and has an understated elegance. The rooms are medium-sized, with clean, simple furnishings. Each room comes with a compact bathroom, most with tub and shower. See map p. 254. Baaderstrasse 1, 80469 München. % 089/21-63-10. Fax: 089/216-3190. S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk south on Zweibrücken Strasse and west on Baaderstrasse). Rates: 155€–275€ ($194–$344) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit An der Oper
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt


This five-story hotel, dating from 1969, is wonderfully situated for sightseeing and shopping in the Altstadt. The décor is basic modern without being particularly distinguished. The 68 rooms are on the small side but have double-glazed windows and a small sitting area. The bathrooms are small, too, and come with a shower. See map p. 254. Falkenturmstrasse 11 (just off Maximilianstrasse, near Marienplatz), 80331 München. % 089/290-0270. Fax: 089/2900-2729. www.hotelanderoper. com. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater stop (then a 5-minute walk south on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Falkenturmstrasse). Rates: 150€–235€ ($187–$294) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

$$ –$$$$ Near Train Station
If you want a nice place right across the street from the train station, this is the best. From the outside, this large hotel looks a bit austere, but the interior has been redone with a pleasantly modern look. Most of the 211 rooms are fairly large, and all are decorated in a comfortable, unobtrusive style. Bathrooms are larger than average, with tub and shower. One child younger than age 6 is allowed to stay free in a parent’s room; for an additional child, an extra bed can be rented for 42€ ($52). See map p. 254. Arnulfstrasse 4, 80335 München. % 089/551-150. Fax: 089/5511-5555. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is opposite the north side of the train station). Rates: 139€–282€ ($174–$352) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gästehaus Englischer Garten
$ –$$$ Schwabing
This 25-room guesthouse near the Englischer Garten is quiet, charming, and an excellent value. The rooms are small to medium in size and decorated with a homey mixture of antiques, old-fashioned beds, and Oriental rugs. The bathrooms are small, with showers only. You can save a few euros by renting one of the six rooms that share bathrooms. In an annex across the street are 15 small apartments, each with a bathroom and a kitchenette. Breakfast costs an extra 9€ ($11); on nice mornings, you can eat outside in the back garden. See map p. 254. Liebergesellstrasse 8, 80802 München-Schwabing. % 089/383-9410. Fax: 089/3839-4133. U-Bahn: Münchener Freiheit (then a 10-minute walk east on Haimhäuserstrasse to Erninger Platz and east on Liebergesellstrasse). Rates: 68€–120€ ($85–$150) double without bathroom; 114€–180€ ($142–$225) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

254 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Central Munich Accommodations and Dining
ACCOMMODATIONS Advokat Hotel 37 Am Markt 35 An der Oper 26 Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 13 Eden-Hotel-Wolff 3 Gästehaus Englischer Garten 16 Hotel Bristol München 8 Hotel Exquisit 7 Hotel Jedermann 4 Hotel Mark 10 Hotel Olympic 9 Hotel Opera 41 Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel 44 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München 40 Königshof 11 Königswache 1 Mandarin Oriental 30 München City Hilton 38 Platzl Hotel 33 Splendid-Dollman 43 DINING Alois Dallmayr 23 Augustiner Grossgaststätte 12 Austernkeller 39 Biergarten Chinesischer Turm 18 Boettner 24 Buon Gusto Talamonti 29 Donisl 21 La Galleria 32 Gandl 42 Gasthaus Glockenbach 6 Gaststätte zum Flaucher 36 Georgenhof 15 Hunsinger’s Pacific 14 Hofbräuhaus am Platzl 27 Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom 19 Pfistermühle 33 Prinz Myshkin 20 Ratskeller München 22 Rossi 28 Spatenhaus 25 Tantris 17 Times Square Online Bistro 5 Zum Alten Markt 34
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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


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S AE. For a quieter room. Rates: 170€–250€ ($212–$312) double. built in 1988 in the same vicinity as the Hotel Bristol München (see the preceding listing). See map p. See map p.hotel-exquisit. www. later in this chapter). Hotel Jedermann $ –$$$ Near Train Station Jedermann means “everyman. . most with roomy. Rates include breakfast. Bayerstrasse 95. family-friendly prices (including cribs and cots. The hotel is attached to the famous Augustiner beer hall and restaurant (see the “Dining Out” section. with Rates include buffet breakfast. comfortable furnishings. The small bathrooms contain tiled showers. www. 14 newly redecorated rooms have Fax: 089/ 5999-3994. Tram: 19 to Herman-Lingg-Strasse (the stop across from the hotel). U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 10-minute walk west on Bayerstrasse from south exit). % 089/5999-3902. Fax: 089/ 5519-9499. MC. The hotel serves a generous breakfast buffet. MC. serene.” and that translates here into affordable. 67€–149€ ($84–$186) double with bathroom. V. modern hotel is a congenial.256 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hotel Bristol München $ –$$ Altstadt Built around 1960 and renovated in 2002. V. Pettenkoferstrasse 2. adjoining rooms. AE. Bathrooms are compact and have showers. Rates include breakfast. About half of them overlook a pretty garden. DC. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 3-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). convenient place to stay in central Munich. Rates: 57€–86€ ($71–$107) double without bathroom. MC. See map p. % 089/551-9900. this efficient. The 56 rooms are fairly small. Fax: 089/5432-4111. and you can check your e-mail on the computer in the lobby. appealing hotel. Rates: 99€–150€ ($123–$187) double. 80336 München. request one that faces the courtyard. The 50 rooms are large and comfortably furnished in an old-fashioned German style. 254. family-run hotel offers a central location and 55 comfortable rooms.bristol-munich. is located on a quiet residential street in the heart of Munich. This pleasant. Hotel Exquisit $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 5-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). The staff here is unusually pleasant and helpful. 80336 München. shower-only bathrooms. www. % 089/543-240. Pettenkoferstrasse 3. 254. 254. Cheaper rooms with in-room showers but toilets down the hall also are available. and babysitting). 80335 München.

MC. and 64 guest rooms nicely decorated in a Bavarianchalet style with big. 254. Hans Sachs Strasse 4.hotel-olympic. The hotel is a short walk from chic Maximilianstrasse and several major attractions. then Tram 18 or 20 east to Hans Sachs Strasse. U-Bahn: Prinzregenten-Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Prinz Regenten Strasse and south on Ismaninger Strasse). boutique hotel. however. Rates: 150€–200€ ($187–$250) double. 80538 München. The bathrooms have a tub and shower. See map p. elegant.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Hotel Olympic $$ Altstadt 257 Built as a private villa around 1900. Most of the midsize bathrooms come with shower only. www. stylish hotel is popular with gay travelers. The hotel is a ten-minute walk from Maximilianstrasse and the center of the city. comfy beds and lots of wood. V. V. St. Hotel Opera $$$$ Altstadt An early-20th-century Italianate building with a courtyard and garden houses this small. minimalist. Rates: 185€–265€ ($231–$331) double. 81675 Munich. Rates include breakfast. 254. Ismaninger Strasse 42–44. The level of service is exceptional. Some of the rooms have small balconies. www. MC. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor. occupies an ornate 19th-century building that was turned . breakfast room. The small.hotel-opera. 254. See map p. The rooms are fairly large and have good bathrooms. Fax: 089/ 2318-9199. DC. www. Fax: 089/21040977.prinzregent.-Anna-Strasse 10. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 5-minute walk north on St. Rates include Rates include buffet breakfast. located in the historic heart of Munich. superclassy Mandarin Oriental. The 38 rooms. are white. modern look. and several gay bars and cafes are located nearby. Fax: 089/ 4160-5466. See map p. Mandarin Oriental $$$$ Altstadt The sophisticated. 80469 München. some face a garden. % 089/231-890. and modern. MC. this hotel has a high-ceilinged lobby and a large wood-paneled breakfast room that retain much of their original late-19th-century detailing. Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel $ –$$$$ Bogenhausen This quietly charming boutique hotel on the east bank of the Isar has a lobby. Rooms in the rear on the third and fourth floors are quieter but also smaller than those facing the street. % 089/416-050. % 089/225-533.-Anna-Strasse). The 25 distinctively decorated rooms have country antiques or a cool. AE. Rates: 90€–400€ ($112–$500) double. AE.

See map p. 254. AE. but the overall ambience is hard to beat. this is one of the best choices in Munich. neat rooms. most with a tub-and-shower combination. 254. DC. this reconstructed “medieval” hotel is located across from the Hofbräuhaus. 80538 München. Sparkassenstrasse 10. for an additional 11€ ($13). Munich’s famous beer hall. If you’re looking for a gulp of old-fashioned Bavarian ambience.mandarinoriental. 254. but not quite as chichi. % 089/225-014. Rates: 161€–230€ ($201–$281) double. and big marble-tiled bathrooms with tub-shower combinations outfit the 73 rooms and suites. www. fine prints and engravings. Neuturmstrasse 1.hotel inmunich. the Splendid-Dollman is in the same league as Hotel Opera down the street. V. See map U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). The staff at this full-service hotel will arrange baby-sitting.Thierschstrasse 49. MC. The hotel has a heated rooftop swimming The 167 rooms tend to be small.platzl. www. Rates: 375€–490€ ($469–$612) double. Fax: 089/224-017. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (then a 3-minute walk south on Neuturmstrasse). MC. Splendid-Dollmann $$ –$$$$ Altstadt A small. Fax: 089/23808365. No two rooms are the same.-Anna-Platz to Thierschstrasse). You can enjoy breakfast. AE. AE. Heiliggeistrasse 6. See map p. DC. 80331 München. V.258 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany into a hotel in 1990. . but they’re paneled in chestnut and alderwood and furnished with 19th-century reproduction antiques. and some are on the small side. DC. MC. Rates include buffet Biedermeier-era (early-19th-century) furnishings. www. V. Most of the rooms have terraces with panoramic views of the city. many of which share bathrooms. 80331 München. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. Each comes with a compact tiled bathroom. Runner-up hotels Am Markt $ Altstadt This popular budget hotel centrally located in the Altstadt has small. outside on a patio. % 089/237-030. Fax: 089/222-539. Rates: 150€–190€ ($167–$237) double. 80331 München. 254. beautifully done boutique hotel. See map p. % 089/23-80-80. DISC. The Splendid-Dollmann’s owners moved the hotel (formerly located about a block away) to this building in 2003 and completely redid the interior. The rooftop terrace provides a view of Munich’s steeples and spires. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 3-minute walk east from St. www.splendid-dollmann. Fax: 089/ 2370-3800. % 089/290-980. No credit cards. Platzl Hotel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Owned by the Ayinger brewery.

U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. www. % 089/542-7570. See map p. % 089/559-820. % 800-223-6800 in the and snacks also are sold from outdoor stalls all around the Filling the city are all kinds of fine restaurants. S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz. 81667 München. 254. Senefelderstrasse 12. % 800-455-8667 in the U. 254. Hotel Mark $ –$$ Near the Train Station Although not fancy. heh. Fax: 089/523-2114. Homemade dumplings are a specialty. small cafes and bistros. Karlsplatz 25. ask for Apfelsaftschorle (ap-fell-saft-shor-luh). München City Hilton $ $ $ Haidhausen An excellent choice for business travelers and families with children. See map p. Steinheilstrasse 7.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 259 $ $ $ $ Altstadt This full-service luxury hotel dates from 1841 and has individually decorated rooms with large bathrooms. served everywhere. Schweinbraten. and moderately priced. or 089/21200. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus. 80333 a braised loin of pork served with potato dumplings and rich brown gravy. plus a health club with pool and sauna. 254. apple juice mixed with sparkling water. 80336 München.S. the München City Hilton lies on the east bank of the river and features well-designed rooms with nice bathrooms. See map p. U-Bahn: Theresienstrasse. Inexpensive sausages. Promenadeplatz 2–6. Fax: 089/212-0906. . comfortable rooms with compact tiled bathrooms. is Bavaria’s answer to the north’s sauerbraten (pot. Königswache $ $ Near Altstadt This 1960s-era hotel features modern. Rosenheimerstrasse 15. this 90-room hotel is convenient. If you want a refreshing nonalcoholic drink.koenigswache.or oven-roasted marinated beef).S. and so are all kinds of sausages and Leberkäse. Dining Out Munich is a city that loves to eat — and eat big. % 089/551-360. Fax: 089/4804-4804. 80333 München.hilton. Fax: 089/5513-6113. 80335 Munich. 254. www. See map p. Tram: 19. a large loaf of sausage eaten with freshly baked pretzels and mustard. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. 254. www. Königshof $ $ $ $ Altstadt This famous hotel boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant and has lushly decorated rooms with marble bathrooms. soups. well maintained. Fax: 089/ www. See map p. and beer halls that serve food. and Canada or 089/48-040.

Stollbergstrasse 11. A crowd always fills the restaurant at lunchtime. U-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk north on Herrnstrasse and northeast on Stollbergstrasse. The house beer. Reservations required.m. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). 254. round up the total to the nearest euro. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2-minute walk north on Dienerstrasse). V. mussels. Open: Mon–Wed 11:30 a. smoked fish.m. sausages. The restaurant is a bit pretentious. Augustiner Brau. and sea snails is a delicious way to start your meal. AE. Specialties include dumpling soup and roast duck with red cabbage. to midnight. upstairs in the dining room you can order a tempting array of dishes. in addition to timehonored favorites such as Lobster Thermidor and shrimp grilled in the shell. % 089/2318-3257. including herring. MC. V. which means that a service charge already has been added. % 089/213-5100.–4 p. 254. don’t leave the tip on the table. which owns the restaurant. Open: Daily 9 a.–7 p.. See map p. Main courses: 15€–38€ ($18–$46). Menu offerings include fresh fish (salmon in champagne sauce is worth trying).m.260 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany If a restaurant bill says Bedienung. U-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 5-minute walk east on Neuhauser Strasse). 254.m. Open: Daily 5–11:30 p. and soups. clams. MC.” you find the largest selection of oysters in town. Dienerstrasse 14–15. V. this famous beer hall and restaurant has cavernous rooms and a genuinely gemütlich atmosphere. fixedprice menus 34€–48€ ($41–$58). served raw or in dishes such as oysters Rockefeller. Thurs–Fri 11:30 a. Main courses: 20€–35€ ($25–$44).m. The top restaurants Alois Dallmayr $$ –$$$ Altstadt DELICATESSEN/CONTINENTAL In business for almost 300 years. round up the total to the nearest euro and add another euro. AE.–8 p.m. Austernkeller $$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD At this “oyster cellar. % 089/298-787. but the food is excellent. Augustiner Grossgaststätte $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/GERMAN Located on Munich’s main pedestrians-only shopping street. comes from one of Munich’s oldest breweries.. and one of the most elegant. See map p.m. See map p. The shellfish platter with fresh oysters. scampi. Alois Dallmayr is the most famous delicatessen in Germany. DC. DC. as is the fish soup. If service is not included. Downstairs you can buy fine food products. . The server takes the tip when you pay the bill. Sat 9 a. MC.m. Neuhauser Strasse 27.

or the roasted lamb with potatoes. The cooking is light and refined.m. Pfisterstrasse 9. MC. Reservations recommended. Special offerings include herb-crusted lamb. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 1-minute walk north on Weinstrasse). AE.m. Gandl $$ –$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN/FRENCH At this attractive and lively neighborhood bistro. Buon Gusto Talamonti $$ Altstadt TUSCAN/ITALIAN This highly regarded Italian restaurant has two dining areas — a simple bistro overlooking an open kitchen and a more formal dining room — with the same menu items and prices. 254. AE. MC. fixed-price menus 25€–36€ ($31–$45). V. pasta with truffles. The atmosphere is light-hearted and fun. The various risottos (rice dishes) are especially good. See map p. fixed-price lunch 8. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and herbs. the lunch menu leans toward Italian. it brought its wood-paneled interior with it.m. DC. MC. but at night the booking becomes more traditionally . 254.m. Main courses: 17€–42€ ($21–$52). Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. % 089/29-62-64. and seasonal dishes with white truffles.–1 a. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Tal and northeast on Hochbrückenstrasse). In summer you can dine in the garden area out front. See map p. fixed-price dinner 28€–38€ ($39–$47). to midnight. Reservations recommended. Try the tris di Pasta (three pastas with vegetables). and 6 p. Reservations required. Weisswürste. Hochbrückenstrasse 3. in a 16thcentury building in the heart of Munich.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Boettner $$$$ Altstadt INTERNATIONAL 261 When this century-old restaurant moved to its new location. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. lobster stew in a cream sauce.–3 p. % 089/296-383. See map p. comfortable atmosphere. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5minute walk north on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). Donisl $ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL Munich’s oldest beer hall dates from 1715 and provides diners and drinkers with a relaxed. V. The beers come from Munich’s HackerPschorr Brewery. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). The desserts are sumptuous. beef filet. have long been a specialty. to midnight. Weinstrasse 1. the little white sausages famous in Munich. with a French influence. AE. spaghetti carbonara.m.m. DC. 254. Open: Daily 9 a. DC. The standard menu offers traditional Bavarian food and weekly specials. V. % 089/221-210. but several traditional Bavarian dishes also are on the menu. An accordion player provides music in the evening.50€–28€ ($11–$39).

m. Wines are mostly from Italy. Dinner offerings change often. In the Schwemme (tap room) on the ground floor.m. U-Bahn: Universität (then a 10minute walk west on Schelling Strasse and north on Turkenstrasse to the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Georgenstrasse). Upstairs are a number of smaller.-Anna Platz exit). or lamb in red-wine sauce.–1 a. % 089/39-31-01.m. U-Bahn: Lehel (the restaurant is less than a block from the St. gnocchi. Eat on the terrace if the weather’s nice. The food is . V. Main courses: 8€–18€ ($10–$22). V. Fredrichstrasse 1. See map p. For dessert. Gasthaus Glockenbach $$$$ South of Train Station MODERN EUROPEAN This elegant but unpretentious restaurant serves imaginative. which is served by the mass equal to about a quart. Kapuzinerstrasse 29. The vegetables come from local farms. a big courtyard is on this level. See map p. The big gourmet salad with various meats and pâtés is delicious. The beer is Hofbrau. 254. MC. MC. The menu offerings change with the seasons and typically include venison and pheasant in autumn and lamb and veal dishes in spring. 35€–70€ ($44–$87) dinner. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 2 p. Main courses: 23€–30€ ($29–$37). Hofbräuhaus am Platzl $$ Altstadt GERMAN A boisterous atmosphere prevails in Munich’s huge and world-famous beer hall. and ravioli. Georgenhof $$ Schwabing GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This pleasant Schwabing eatery has a comfortably rustic interior with a wood-fired grill. such as spaghetti carbonara. France. St. % 089/2916-2525. and Austria.m.-Anna Platz 1. too. MC. The menu reflects seasonal specialty Spargel (asparagus) in May and June and regional favorites. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). U-Bahn: Goetheplatz (then a 10-minute walk south on Lindwurm and east on Kapuzinerstrasse to the corner of Maistrasse). Grilled meats such as lamb and steak are popular. too. 254. Fixedprice menus: 20€–45€ ($25–$56) lunch. quieter dining rooms.m. AE. The Italian dishes include homemade pastas. but you’ll typically find fare such as entrecote with arugula salad. grilled filet of salmon in saffron sauce. 254. but if the weather is nice. V. See map p. % 089/534-043. nouvelle French-German-Bavarian cuisine and has earned a Michelin star. mostly organic. Closed 1 week at Christmas. Bavarian game dishes include Rehpfeffer (venison) with egg Spätzle (German pasta) or tagliatelle with venison ragout. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. sit outside under the chestnut trees. to midnight. try the simple but delicious Bavarian cream with strawberries. and 7–10 p. Reservations recommended. you sit on benches at bare wood tables as a brass band plays. AE. Fixed-price menu: 31€ ($39).262 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany French. Open: Daily 11 a.

. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to Frauenplatz beside the Frauenkirche). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 3-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). % 089/295-264. veal with arugula. fried monkfish. and turbot in chili and ginger sauce.m. Main courses: 110€–40€ ($25–$50). Fixed-price dinner: 48€–54€ ($60–$67). See map p. Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom $ Altstadt BAVARIAN A short walk from Marienplatz. V. AE. Everything on the menu is translated into English. Main courses: 21€–24€ ($26–$30). and 5 p. 254. Thailand (lemon grass).m. No credit cards. to midnight. or braised crab with polenta.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 263 heavy and hearty with a menu that includes Weisswürste and several other sausages. Am Platzl 9. % 089/290-1360. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). and 6–10:30 p. this is the coziest and friendliest of Munich’s local restaurants. across from the cathedral (Dom).m. Maximiliansplatz 5. Japan (wasabi). 254.m. Main courses include bouillabaisse with aioli (a fish soup with a spicy mayonnaise). See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Bräuhausstrasse). See map p. Closed Aug. and stuffed cabbage rolls. roast duck with lentils. Open: Daily 10 a. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Reservations recommended. No credit cards. Hunsinger’s Pacific $$ –$$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL/ASIAN This restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices. Frauenplatz 9. fresh ginger. Closed Aug 10–30. homemade gnocchi with duck and figs. AE. 254.–2:30 p. % 089/297-995.m. MC. Schweinbraten (roasted pork). U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 10-minute walk northeast on Oskar-von-Miller Strasse to the entrance on Max-Joseph-Strasse). and lime is a delicious starter. V. See map p. MC. The menu emphasizes fresh fish prepared according to classic French cooking techniques but using spices from Malaysia (coconut milk).–1 a. Hot dogs will never taste the same again after your kid has tried one of these delectable little sausages. 254. DC. Spanferkel (roast suckling pig). % 089/5502-9741.m.m. Nürnberger Schweinwurstl mit Kraut (pork sausages with cabbage. Open: Daily 9 a. La Galleria $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN The roster of dishes at this appealing Italian restaurant changes seasonally. You sit in carved wooden chairs at shared tables. to midnight. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a.m. a specialty from Nuremberg) is the dish to try. but you may find main courses such as mushroom tartar. The tuna carpaccio with sliced plum. Sparkassenstrasse 11. cold melon soup. and India (curry). Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p.

The menu includes freshly made salads. AE. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight. The simply prepared pastas (Teigwaren in German) are always good. The daily special pasta may be something more exotic. AE. Pfistermühle 4. Marienplatz 8. % 089/265-596. V. AE.m. V. V. fresh trout accompanied by chive-flecked sour cream and a potato pancake. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk southwest on Rindermarkt and Oberanger and north on Sack Strasse to Hackenstrasse). and pizzas generally are excellent. in the Rathaus. Main courses: 8€–22€ ($10–$27). red-tiled floor. See map p. Reservations recommended. The menu showcases regional dishes but also includes some vegetarian choices. woody interior with carved wooden chairs and tables and painted ceilings. Toast the end of your Bavarian meal with a glass of wild-cherry schnapps. % 089/2370-3800. MC.264 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pfistermühle $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN This old-fashioned. Come for roast meats served with fresh vegetables. MC. Ratskeller München $ –$$ Altstadt BAVARIAN A Ratskeller is a cellar restaurant in a Rathaus (town hall). soups. like fettucine with tartufo (truffles). Try spaghetti alle pomodoro (with tomatoes) or penne ai formaggi (with cheese). macrobiotic dishes. Asian-inspired vegetarian entrees. % 089/219-9890. See map p. where you find good. and white walls with wood-paneled ceiling.–1 a. veal piccata with lemon sauce. Reservations recommended. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (the Rathaus is on the square). In the Platzl Hotel. 254. The casseroles. inexpensive food and wine. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). Ratskeller München has a dark. or grilled steak (Rindfilet). Hackenstrasse 2. this well-liked Italian restaurant across from the famous Hofbräuhaus is an inviting place to dine. You can also get a good pizza. 254. See map p. and vegetarian Involtini (stuffed rollups).m. 254. Rossi $$ Altstadt ITALIAN With its columns. Open: Daily 10 a. or the fish platter served with ragout and noodles. Main courses: 16€–24€ ($20–$30).–11:30 p.m. vine-covered restaurant housed in a converted mill serves hearty portions of traditional Bavarian food in a series of charmingly decorated dining rooms or at outdoor tables. DC. you may want to try this popular vegetarian restaurant near Marienplatz. MC. . Prinz Myshkin $ Altstadt VEGETARIAN If sausages and meat dishes are getting to you. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19).m. For dessert try vanilla custard with fresh berry sauce. Open: Daily 11 a.

V. medallions of venison with mushrooms. 254. See map p. .m. tagliatelle.10) per quarter-hour. Open: Daily 7:30 a. % 089/227-735. red cabbage and cheese Spätzle. AE. Bräuhausstrasse 6. to midnight. and east on Johan-Fichte-Strasse). The quality varies here.m. Times Square Online Bistro $ Train Station CONTINENTAL/SNACKS A bank of online computers. % 089/290-7060.m. this sophisticated Michelin-starred restaurant has a modernist interior that reminds some of an airport lounge. Closed public holidays and annual holidays in Jan and May. AE. The Bayerische Teller (Bavarian plate) comes loaded with various meats. Open: Daily 9:30 a. including pork and sausages. Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. Reservations required.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 265 See map p. where you can order simple dishes such as pork cutlets. Main courses: 7€–18€ ($9–$22). MC.–3 p. Schwabing.m. 254. 254.–1 a. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 3 p. U-Bahn: Dietlindenstrasse (then a 10-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse. baked Camembert. V.m. which you can rent for 2. V. Fixedprice lunch: 62€–92€ ($77–$115). The bistro also has a section for noncomputerized dining. Spaten-Franziskaner-Bier. Bayerstrasse 10 A. and spinach strudel. sautéed foie gras with plums. Open: Mon–Fri 11:30 a. Sat 6 p. See map p. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk north on Diener Strasse and Residenzstrasse). AE. Spatenhaus $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This well-known beer restaurant with big windows overlooking the opera house serves hearty portions of typical Bavarian food at reasonable prices.m. V.– 12:30 a. Reservations recommended.m. % 089/361-9590. With one of the fixed-price multi-course menus you may begin with a yellowfin tuna followed by monkfish with lobster raviolis. DC.m. Breakfast: 4€–10€ ($5–$13). MC. and finish with a hazelnut soufflé with marinated figs. and I’d recommend it more for a snack between e-mails than a real meal. Main courses: 14€–26€ ($17–$32). % 089/550-8800. high-ceilinged. AE.m. Main courses: 7€–14€ ($9–$17). U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. to midnight.50€ ($ 3. technobistro in the main train station.–1 a. MC. DC.m. and 6:30 p. Residenzstrasse 12.m. in the main train station. Fixed-price dinner: 120€–140€ ($150–$175). The choice of dishes is limited and changes often. Tantris $$$$ Schwabing FRENCH/GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A famed culinary mecca since 1972. U-/S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk west on Tal and northeast on Hochbrücken to Bräuhausstrasse). north on Leopold Strasse. and 6 p. MC. takes up one side of this bright. Wash down your meal with the restaurant’s own beer.

m. friendly eatery is located on a tiny square just off the Viktualienmarkt. ߜ Biergarten Chinesischer Turm. The best beer gardens Munich is famed for its beer gardens (Biergartens).266 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Brezeln und bier (pretzels and beer) In Munich. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 11 a. but keep in mind that you’ll be charged up to 5€ ($6. to 9 p. to midnight.m. U-Bahn: Giselastrasse). You can also order classic dishes such as roast duck with applesauce or roast suckling pig. Main courses: 12€–20€ ($15–$25). % 089/299-995. The chef makes a great Tafelspitz (boiled beef). you’ll usually find pretzels on the table. it’s open Friday. expect to pay 3€ to 6. an easy-to-find landmark.50€ ($3. . No credit cards. quaff Munich’s famous brews. For a glass or mug of beer. Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 3. pretzel) is the traditional accompaniment to ein Glas helles (ine glahss hel-les. and order hearty Bavarian food at reasonable prices. tables are set up outside.75–$8). a Brezel (bray-zuhl. not-too-salty crust and a soft thick interior. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south to Dreifaltifkeitsplatz on the east side of the Viktualienmarkt). near the zoo.m.).m. The food. a glass of light wheat beer). where you can sit outdoors. chewy. and Sunday from 10 a. Salty pretzels and large white radishes (Radl) are traditional accompaniments to the beer. one of Munich’s largest and most popular beer gardens. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 10 a. Englischer Garten 3 (% 089/3838720. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight (food served until 10 p. has tables set in a tree-shaded garden overlooking the Isar River. A simple meal generally costs around 10€ ($13). Oom-pah-pah bands. Munich pretzels are delicious. with a golden. or accordionists sometimes add to the jovial atmosphere. to 1 a. Saturday. and atmosphere are much the same in the two places that I recommend. Bus: 52).m. is located in the Englischer Garten at the foot of the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). Isarauen 8 (% 089/723-2677. In the beer halls.m. Zum Alten Markt $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This snug. Munich’s big outdoor produce market. ߜ Gaststätte zum Flaucher. drink. November to April. zither players. depending on its size.25) for every Brezel you eat. You may begin with homemade cream of carrot soup or black-truffle tortellini in cream sauce. In summer.

See map p.m. The objects on view are among Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. folk art. Enjoying Munich is easy. % 089/2380-5216. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Munich is a city bursting with first-rate museums. (Tues until 10 p. fascinating architecture. offering several world-class museums. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum) East of Altstadt This museum contains three vast floors of sculpture. many fine churches and historic buildings. you’ll have to make some difficult decisions. in addition to clocks and scientific instruments. Tyrol. Barer Strasse 27. see the listings under “The top restaurants. free for children 14 and younger Sun 1€ ($1. pick up a museum guide at the information desk. When you see a painting you want to know more about. To make the most of your time here. but if your time is limited. For locations.” and the nearly 800 paintings on display in this enormous building represent the greatest European artists of the 14th through 18th centuries.25). A free audio tour in English is available in the lobby. 268. ceramics. which contains works in wood by the great sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). Admission: Tues–Sat 5. . and Friday at 3 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Free tours highlighting various parts of the vast collection take place on Tuesday at 6:30 p. see the “Central Munich Attractions” map in this chapter. painting.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 267 For two of the best beer halls in Munich.50€ ($7) adults. Sightseeing in Munich Munich is one of the great sightseeing cities in Germany. Give yourself at least an hour just to cover the highlights. Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) Museum Quarter Pinakothek means “painting gallery. A major highlight is the Riemenschneider Room.m.m. decide which paintings you particularly want to see. Closed major holidays. for the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl and Augustiner Grossgastätte. and textiles.m.” earlier in this chapter. and beautiful places to stroll. and then spend at least two to three hours. furniture.–5 p. and southern Italy. 4€ ($5) students. The museum is so immense that you can easily spend several days exploring the two floors of exhibits. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). The museum also contains a famous collection of Christmas Nativity cribs from Bavaria. and lovely parks and gardens.).m. punch the corresponding number into your audio guide to hear a full commentary.

Neuh -Wilhelm-Strasse zog Her auser 8 strass e Sonnenstr. Schwanthalerstrasse Herzog spitals tr. asse ellin The resie gstr n- U s tra sse s-St rass e ens Gab e lsbe Schleis sh rass e rger stra Arc isst 2 5 asse Brie nne r Str 6 Königsplatz lstra uste Seid Aug Meis U erst rass e asse nstr sse Kar lstra sse se tras 7 Karolinenplatz sse Ma ens se rstra rsst ras Luis Ar nu lfstra sse S Hauptbahnhof U Elise GARTEN nstr asse Bahnhofplatz Prielm aye rstr asse i U Schütze nstr . Goethestrasse Schillerstrasse Landwehrstrasse Mathildenstra spitalstr . Karlsplatz Adolf-Kolping-Str. 1 Zieb Sch Hes tras se Aug u i S U sten land str.268 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Central Munich Attractions Alte Pinakothek 5 Altes Rathaus 16 Antikensammlungen 7 Asamkirche 9 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 20 Deutsches Museum 10 Englischer Garten 21 Frauenkirche 17 Glockenspiel 14 Glyptothek 6 Marienplatz 14 Michaelskirche 8 Münchner Stadtmuseum 12 Neue Pinakothek 3 Neues Rathaus 15 Olympiapark 1 Olympiaturm 1 Peterskirche 13 Pinakothek der Moderne 4 Residenz 19 Schloss Nymphenburg 2 Spielzeugmuseum 15 Theatinerkirche 18 Viktualienmarkt 11 NYMPHENBURG Amalienburg 26 Badenburg Pavilion 22 Magdalenenklause 25 Marstallmuseum 27 Pagodenburg 24 Porzellan-ManufakturNymphenburg 30 Porzellansammlung 28 Schloss 29 Schlosspark 23 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn U-Bahn eimers trasse s tr. ter str .2 mi 0. STEFAN’S STEFAN CEMETERY ns tra Munich sse 0 ners se me nstrasse Mü llerstrasse Unte rer A U nger Sendlingertorplatz Bare rstra sse h-S tras se sse Luis 3 4 Dachauers trasse Ma x-Jo sep sse .2 km Blu Tha lkirc h Jah U ST. Pettenko fer- strasse Hamburg Berlin G E R MAN Y Frankfurt 0 strasse MatthäusBeethoven. Sonnenstr.Nussbaum kirche platz e s as str urm w d Lin tras 0. ALTER BOTANISCHER e Sophienstr as s Bare Lenbachplatz U Maximiliansplatz Maxb S urgst rasse Senefelderstrasse Bayerstr. Ho t Joseph 9 Se li nd ng ers tr.

HOFGARTEN platz Hofg U arten strass e se dst ras se e Oett Un söl rasse 20 er- Residenzstr. ers üll tra Inn sse ere Baaderplatz Ludwigsbrücke Ke Ro se ller str Reichenbachstrasse Ze a r pp lin str a Lille nstr sse asse Hochs trasse sse ass sse . ner Kau str.Ring trasse Strasse ENGLISCHER GARTEN Von-de r-Tann Osk Brie ing K.Vete rinär Huberplatz str.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 269 Königinstr ass e stra ss e Blüte nstra sse Akad emies trasse Ada lber tstra sse NYMPHENBURG Schac strass ke 24 Kleiner See 25 30 gstr Tür Sch ken University Prof. str inge nne rstra s sse Prinz rege nten st nstra Galeri estra Theatermuseum nf e che Ler ld s sse tra ar ss e Wagmüller str. St. ns 11 ar do Frauenstrasse Ka e Zw nal t schs T h i er ass e rfs tra sse Viktualienmarkt Westenriederstrasse S er-R Jüdisches Museum München Maxim Knöbelstra sse ilians trasse Ste 17 Museum für Völkerkunde Thiersch Max Nationaltheater JosephPlatz Am Pfis Kosttorters Platz tras se Ma str. Frauenplatz Die ing erstr . Scharnagl -R se Str ass Odeons. ide nm tr. e rs U tr a ss e orstra Promenadeplatz Cuvilliés Theater stras hab Christophstr. asse U Nymphenburger Kanal Schloss 29 28 26 27 ensch tr Hir rtens ga ellin 23 asse SCHLOSSPARK Am resie alie The nstr Grosser See stras nstr a sse se 22 Kaulbac hstrasse Zuccalistrasse Richildenstrasse Ludw ig t r a s se Kön igin s 21 tras se ens Schönfelds -vo n Türk le -Mil r. Ba ad a Erh ers Is rdt tra str ass e Deutsches Museum 10 S ar e Bürkleinstr.. ibr Co rn ück eli str us as se en se as str . aul tiner ras s 18 Residenz 19 Liebigst Thea Kar rsta Reitm ay rasse d-F llst Wein str. rns Maxim ilians brück e stra sse r W Is en Wi er S tra sse sis Gärtnerplatz z Fra Klen un ho fe rst r tra es Mo ras M tr. rds Ste ins m Blu e tr. -W Marienplatz 14 Im T imm 16 Rum Is fo tr.-An na-Pfa rrstr. fing i S U 13 12 al Isartorplatz 15 Th. e sse nh eim er .

–5 p. and lake. the first diesel engine (1897). Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. % 089/21791. The Automobile department in the basement is noteworthy. the first electric generator (called a dynamo.). the first automobile (1886). and admire the view of Munich’s Altstadt from the round. Its huge collection of scientific and technological treasures includes the first electric locomotive (1879).75) students and children 6–16.270 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p.75) students and seniors. See map p. Open: Daily 9 a. Admission: Tues–Sat 5€ ($6. 268. are popular nude-sunbathing spots. In the Aeronautics section. papermaking. Deutsches Museum (German Museum of Science and Technology) Museumsinsel Located on the Museumsinsel. hilltop temple called the Monopteros. and Bugatti vehicles. the Englischer Garten also is the oldest public park in the world. Bounded on the south by Von-der-Tann Strasse and Prinzregentenstrasse. the department store across from the Hauptbahnhof. This hands-on. A giant beer garden occupies the plaza near the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). an island in the Isar River.m. this is the largest science and technology museum in the world and one of the most popular attractions in Germany. Closed major holidays.50€ ($11) adults.” earlier in this chapter).m.–5 p. Spending half a day here is easy. 3€ ($3. kid-friendly museum has interactive exhibits and an English-speaking staff to answer questions and demonstrate glass blowing.m. pumps. and the laboratory bench at which the atom first was split (1938). Opel. and an assortment of military aircraft. See map p. You can pick up expensive picnic goodies at Alois Dallmayr (see “Dining Out. (Wed until 8 p.m.25). Admission: 8. constructed in the 19th century. streams. and how steam engines. on the west by Königinstrasse. The park is a lovely place to have a picnic. Tram: 18 to Deutsches Museum (the tram stops outside the museum). the first airliner (1919). 3€ ($3. or less-expensive fare from the Viktualienmarkt (the produce market described later in this section).m. You can wander for hours along the tree-shaded walks. The banks of the Eisbach. Englischer Garten (English Garden) Northwest of Altstadt Munich’s famous city park is one of the largest (922 acres) and most beautiful city parks in Europe.m. Museumsinsel 1.25) adults. 268. with a collection of luxury Daimler. Sun 1€ ($1. the stream that runs through the park. Established in 1789.). and historical musical instruments work. you see a biplane flown by the Wright brothers in 1908. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 10-minute walk northeast through the Hofgarten to the park). Prinzregentenstrasse 3. free for children younger than 18. 1866). on the east by Lerchenfeldstrasse. or at Hertie. . 268. % 089/211-2401. (Thurs until 8 p. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 10minute walk north on Wagmüllerstrasse and east on Prinzregentenstrasse).

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 271 Deutsches Museum Ceramics Glass Technical Toys Paper Writing & Printing Second Floor Ground Floor Aeronautics Glassblowing Special Exhibition Textile PhotoTechnology graphy New Energy Techniques Fraunhofer Room Brander Room Hall of Fame History of Museum Industrial Chemistry Physics Optics First Floor AeroSailing Wherry nautics Atomic & Nuclear Physics Telecommunications Musical Instruments Chemistry Oil & Natural Surface Gas Mining Turbines Metallurgy Machine Tools Welding & Soldering Ground Floor Mineral Power Machinery Resources Entrance Hall Marine Navigation Electrical Power Hydraulic Engineering Rescue Cruiser Wind Mill Vehicle Engineering Courtyard Museum Shop Roads & Bridges Tunneling Tower Railways Model Mountain Railways Railways Oil & Gas Mining Ore Dressing Power Machinery Basement Modern Mining Motor Vehicles Marine Navigation Hydraulic Engineering Motor Vehicles .

% 089/290-0820. built in 19thcentury Gothic style and famous for its Glockenspiel (see the sidebar “Watching the Glockenspiel” in this chapter). to 7 p. first performed in 1683 to express gratitude for the end of the plague. tower Apr–Oct daily 10 a. Inside is the Spielzeugmuseum (% 089/294-001). Chances are you’ll return here again and again. Open: Church Sat–Thurs 7 a. Admission: Church free. the Schäfflertanz (Coopers’ Dance). Brightly painted mechanical figures reenact two famous events from Munich’s history: the knights’ tournament during the 1586 wedding feast of Wilhelm V and Renate of Lorraine. and the view from the tower is spectacular. Frauenplatz 12.m.m. In the center of the Altstadt.m.. Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady) Altstadt Munich’s largest church. Admission is 1. open daily from 10 a.m.m. Admission is 2. See map p.m.10) for adults. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to the church). and 5€ ($ 6. and 9 p.50€ ($ 1. was a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of World War II (WWII). and. to 7 p.50€ ($2) students.50 (65¢) for children.. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. To the right of the Neues Rathaus stands the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall). . You can take an elevator to the top of the Rathaus’s tower for a good view of the city center. completed in the late 15th century. 15th-century Gothic tower.m.25) for a family. Marienplatz Altstadt This large pedestrian-only square in the heart of the Altstadt also is the old heart of Munich. 268. Only its landmark twin onion-domed towers from 1525 remained standing. The tower is open Monday to Friday from 9 a.75 (95¢) for children 6 to 18.m.90) for adults. See map p.m. Fri 7 a. one level below. 0. The rebuilt church is strikingly simple and dignified. tower 3€ ($3. because many of the city’s attractions are clustered in the vicinity.. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz.m. with its plain.75) adults.–6 p.m. On the north side of Marienplatz is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall). 268.–7 p.m. daily (also at noon and 5 p. to 5:30 p.m.50€ ($ 3.m.272 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Watching the Glockenspiel The best show on Marienplatz takes place at 11 a. 0.–5 p. a historical toy collection. 1. during the holiday seasons) when the 43-bell Glockenspiel (carillon) on the 280foot central spire of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) goes through its paces.m.

).50€ ($2) adults. Vincent van Gogh.–5 p.m. % 089/2332-2370. and Paul Gauguin. Francesco Goya. Neue Pinakothek Museum Quarter Housed in a postmodern building from 1981.m.m. 268. You get a splendid view from the top. frescoes. Mundita. 2€ ($2. Caspar David Friedrich. among many others.m. starting right around 1800. Admission: Tues–Sat 5. this museum is a showcase for 19th-century German and European art. 4€ ($5) students and seniors. who stares at you with two false eyes in her skull. dating from 1820.-Jakobs-Platz 1. 268. % 089/2380-5195. and a bizarre relic in the second chapel (on the left): the gem-studded skeleton of St.). Peterskirche (St. (Nov–Mar until 7 p. Children love the third-floor collection of marionettes and hand puppets from around the world and the gallery of fairground art. St. A tour of the highlights takes a couple of hours. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. Admission: Church free. % 089/260-4828. Closed major holidays. The museum’s one must-see exhibit is the Moriskentanzer (Moorish dancers). Rindermarkt 1. 0.50) students and children 6–15.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Rindermarkt and Oberanger).m. William Turner. The second-floor photo museum traces the early history of the camera back to 1839. free on Sun. 268. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2minute walk south on Rindermarkt).m.m. Sun 10 a. Peter’s Church) Altstadt The bell tower of this 13th-century Gothic church.–6 p. this museum still contains plenty to see.). Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street).25).m. See map p. remodeled during the baroque era. (Nov–Mar until 6 p. tower 1. See map p.–7 p. is known locally as Old Pete. See map p. Joshua Reynolds. Barer Strasse 27 (across Theresienstrasse from the Alte Pinakothek).–6 p. featuring ten carved and brightly painted 15th-century wooden figures. The interior of the church contains baroque-era sculptures. but you have to climb (and climb and climb) 306 steps to see it. an audio tour in English is free with your admission. Artists whose works are on view include Thomas Gainsborough.50€ ($7) adults. You find a cafeteria in the museum’s main courtyard. Sun 1€ ($1.75 (95¢) students.m. (Wed until 10 p. .Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Münchner Stadtmuseum (Munich City Museum) Altstadt 273 This museum chronicles Munich’s history and the everyday lives of its residents. Not quite as daunting as the nearby Alte Pinakothek. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. which includes the oldest-known carousel horses. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a.m. Open: Wed–Mon 10 a.

Design) Museum Quarter Munich’s newest museum. Artisans painstakingly restored the Residenz.m. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museums are across the street).m. You find four collections housed inside. The other collections include the Neue Sammlung (Craft and Design Collection). opened in September 2002. the palace is a compendium of various architectural styles. the Wittelsbachs’ summer residence. Ernst.m. The palace was begun in 1664 and took more than 150 years to complete.–4 p.–5 p. Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. Residenztheater 3€ ($3.m. On the north side of the palace is the Italianate Hofgarten (Court Garden).. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (the palace is southeast across the square). Kandinsky. Picasso. from 1385 to 1918. with arts and furnishings displayed in some 130 rooms. 8€ ($10) students and children. the Schatzkammer (Treasury).m. 268. Residenz (Royal Palace) Altstadt This magnificent building was the official residence of the Wittelsbach family. Kirchner. with three centuries’ worth of accumulated treasures. Architecture. Closed major holidays. % 089/2380-5360. In 1702. a stunning rococo theater. the Museum of Architecture. Guided tours (in German): Daily 10 a. You enter both the Residenz Museum and the Schatzkammer from Max-Joseph-Platz on the south side of the palace. Elector Max Emanuel decided to enlarge the original Italianate villa by adding four large pavilions connected by arcaded passageways. and the Altes Residenztheater. and Palladian. 268. Giacometti. The most important is the Staatsgalerie moderner Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art). 5€ ($6.75) adults. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. See map p. the Pinakothek der Moderne. 2€ ($2. free admission on Sun. laid out between 1613 and 1617. (Thurs–Fri until 8 p.m.274 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of Modern Art.m. and 12:30 p. you . Admission: Combined ticket for Residenz Museum and Schatzkammer 9€ ($11) adults. See map p. displaying major 20th-century classics by internationally known artists including Matisse. Added to and rebuilt through the centuries. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (the palace is on the same square as the theater). and others. the rulers of Bavaria.m. Max-Joseph-Platz 3.25) for students 10–18. is one of the most sophisticated and beautiful palaces in Europe. Gris. Admission: 9€ ($11) adults.m. From central Munich. which was almost totally destroyed in WWII.50) students and children.). including German and Florentine Renaissance. Barer Strasse 40. The must-sees are the Residenz Museum. and the Graphische Sammlung (Graphics Collection).– 6 p. Open: Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. % 089/290-671. Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) Nymphenburg Schloss Nymphenburg. free for children younger than 10.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 275 The Residenz Hofgartenstrasse State Collection of Egyptian Art Fourshaft Room Court Garden Wing Stone Room Wing Trier Wing Festival Hall Building Entrance Hall Bavarian Academy of Science Battle Room Wing To w Chapel Courtyard er B ui ld in g Hercules Chest Ladies’ Floor Coin Collection Imperial Courtyard Apothecaries’ Courtyard Ground Floor Nibelungen Rooms 1 Theater Floor Imperial Hall or r Corrid Theatine Stone Room Trier Corridor Trier Room Papal Rooms Rooms Upper Floor 1 Entrance to Residenz Museum denz Old Resi ße Antler Corridor Grotto Courtyard Ancestoral Gallery Royal Building Courtyard Old Foyer Residenz Foyer Theater Fountain Courtyard Apothecaries’ Wing Wittelsbach Cabinet Garden Fountain Ruins of All Saints Courtyard Church Kitchen Courtyard m riu ua iq nt A Re si de nz Marstallplatz st ra t Vestmen Rooms Treasury Royal Building Max-Joseph-Platz New Residenz Theater New Hercules Room Charlotte Corridor tt lo ar Ch en t ak tr ’s st ür rf Ku g in sW om Ro Rich Ludwig I’s Rooms Porcelain Gallery Battle Rooms .

decorated in a vibrant splash of rococo colors and stuccowork. built in 1734 as a hunting lodge for Electress Amalia. A canal runs through 500-acre Schlosspark. you come first to the Great Hall.m. and the Magdalenenklause (Hermitage).m. including those used by Ludwig II. free for children younger than 7. Admission: Palace grounds free. The beauties include Schöne Münchnerin (Lovely Munich Girl) and a portrait of Lola Montez.. A factory on the grounds of Schloss Nymphenburg still produces the famous Nymphenburg porcelain. the interior salons are a riot of flamboyant colors. Dark wooden pews and a canopied pulpit provide the only color in the all-white interior. Porzellan-Manufaktur-Nymphenburg. French-style gardens.m. you find the Badenburg Pavilion. has a sales room and exhibition center open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a. is the Marstallmuseum. you find Ludwig I’s famous Gallery of Beauties with paintings by J. this church is Munich’s finest example of Italian baroque architecture. In the south pavilion. gilded coaches and sleighs. In the English-style park. . where you find a dazzling collection of ornate. Theatinerkirche (Church of the Theatines) Altstadt Named for the Theatines. To the south of the palace buildings.m. Prettiest of all the buildings in the park is Amalienburg. Tram: 12. stretching all the way to the so-called grand cascade at the far end of the formal. Fluted columns lining the center aisle support the arched ceiling of the nave. including miniature porcelain copies of masterpieces in the Alte Pinakothek. in the rectangular block of low structures that once housed the court stables. You need at least half a day to explore the buildings and grounds. Schloss Nymphenburg 1. % 089/179-080. 8€ ($10) seniors. the Pagodenburg. the raven-haired dancer whose affair with Ludwig caused a scandal. The church was begun by Italian architects in 1663 and was completed by German court architects about a century later. 268. a group of Roman Catholic clergy. admission to all attractions 10€ ($13) adults. and wall paintings. 8km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. to 5 p. Stieler (1827–1850). full of quiet meadows and forested paths. swirling stuccowork.276 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany can easily reach the palace by tram in about 20 minutes. The dome above the transept is decorated with an ornate gallery of large statues. Nördliches Schlossrondell 8 (% 089/179-1970). See map p. decorated in the Chinese style that was all the rage in the 18th century. Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. Open: Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a.m.–6 p. meant to be a retreat for prayer and solitude. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection. entrance across from the Marstallmuseum) contains superb pieces of 18th-century porcelain. or 17 to Romanplatz (then a 10-minute walk west to the palace entrance).m.–4 p. with an 18th-century swimming pool. Badenburg and Magdalenenklause closed Oct 16–Mar 30. Inside. 16. Every surface appears to be loaded with dollops of fanciful white stuccowork.

In an area the size of a city block.50€ ($4. Wed). and stay open until 6 p. is an essential stop for anyone interested in ancient art. You can buy food at the market stalls and eat it in the beer garden if you buy a beer. ߜ The Asamkirche. U-/S-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor). and Tal on the north. and in other outdoor food markets throughout Germany. five cheese sellers. the Viktualienmarkt has been serving Munich residents for nearly 200 years and is a wonderful place to stroll and sniff and take in the scene. on Sendlinger Strasse (% 089/260-9357. Heiliggeiststrasse on the east. Bounded by Prälat-Zistl-Strasse on the west.m. A joint ticket to the Museum of Antiquities and the neighboring Glyptothek (included later in this list) is 6€ ($7.m.– 1 p. Frauen Strasse to the south.m.m. Theatinerstrasse 22.50) for adults. a soda. on Sunday.m. from a mussel shell to large Greek and Etruscan vases. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3. water. Here are some additional places to visit as you explore the city. and dozens of produce stalls.mwn. Multicolored marbles. (until 8 p. you find two dozen butcher shops. it’s 1€ ($1. www.m. to 5 p. ߜ The Antikensammlungen (Museum of Antiquities). The museum’s five main-floor halls house more than 650 Greek vases. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Königsplatz 1 (% 089/599-888-30.m.–3 p. Admission: Free. from a pre-Mycenaean version carved in 3000 B.25) for everyone. fish sellers. Open: Mon–Fri 10 a. close to Marienplatz.50).. . remember two points: Do not touch the merchandise (doing so is against German food laws) and don’t try to bargain for lower prices (prices are not negotiable). wine merchants.m. See map p. and 1:30–4:30 p. a whole section of bakeries stocked with dozens of different kinds of Bavarian breads and rolls.m. or other beverage at the beer-garden drink stand. 268. 268. Sat 10 a. U-Bahn: Königsplatz).Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 277 See map p. 2.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk southeast through the square). % 089/210-6960.m. weekdays or until 1 p.m. The Viktualienmarkt has a large beer garden. is a remarkable rococo church built by the Asam brothers between 1733 and 1746. At the Viktualienmarkt. Finding more cool things to see and do Munich has many important churches and museums in addition to those described in the preceding sections. Viktualienmarkt (Produce Market) Altstadt Located on the square of the same Saturdays.antike-am-koenigsplatz.C. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 2-minute walk south on Theatinerstrasse). Most of the permanent stands open at 6 a.

m. on Sunday. and a haunting collection of Roman portraits.m. ߜ The Michaelskirche (St. 3.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. (until 8 p. They also run guided tours to the castle of Neuschwanstein. sits at the northwestern edge of Munich and is a small city unto itself.25).m.10) for children younger than 16.m. the 293m-high (960-ft. plus another at 10 a. Olympiaturm (% 089/3067-2750). a colossal Sleeping Satyr from the Hellenistic period. is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps.m..m.50€ ($3.m.m. www. to 5 p. spend some time exploring a single site with a guide.m. and 5 p. noon. Panorama also offers 21⁄2-hour. exhibits Germany’s largest collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. Apr–Oct).C. U-Bahn: Königsplatz).). the Glyptothek.autobusoberbayern. a third spends time in the Alte Pinakothek (Tues–Sun at 10 a. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3. to midnight.m.) television tower in the center of the park. in addition to the city orientation tour. another goes to the Olympic Area where you can climb its 960-foot Olympic Tower (daily at 2:30 p. 19€ ($23) city tours that. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 a. and 4 p. is open daily from 9 a. Thurs). Seeing Munich by Guided Tour You have two choices for orientation bus tours. 2. to 7 p. Here you find sixth-century-B. to 5:30 p. a single-nave church with a barrel-vaulted ceiling completed in is a straightforward affair — just hop on in front of the Hauptbahnhof and buy your 11€ ($13) ticket onboard.m. A ticket for a ride to the top costs 4€ ($5) for adults and 2. Tours depart at 10 and 11 a. kouroi (statues of youths). to 10 p. The extraordinary view reaches all the way to the Alps.50€ ($4. 2:30.m..m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.278 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany gold leaf. and 1. daily (Apr–Oct also at 11:30 a. and silver cover every square inch of this small rectangular church with rounded ends. 2. take place at the colossal 69.000-seat stadium. everyone gets in for 1€ ($1. Sunday from 6:45 a.m. ߜ Located across from the Antikensammlungen (see the first entry in this list). including concerts. One visits Schloss Nymphenburg (daily at 2:30 p.. Various events. site of the 1972 Olympic games. Neuhauserstrasse 52 (% 089/231-7060. Michael’s Church). The church is open daily from 8 a. The one-hour Stadtrundfahrt (city sightseeing tour) by Panorama Tours (% 089-54907560. U-Bahn: Olympiazentrum). . U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz).m.). ߜ Olympiapark (% 089/3067-2414.).50) for adults.m.m. Königsplatz 3 (% 089/286-100.m.

de). Mike’s offers four-hour. were redesigned to focus on the fate of the prisoners and to integrate the still-existing historic buildings into the reworked permanent exhibition. you can tour Munich by bicycle with the English-speaking ex-pats at Mike’s Bike Tours (% 089/2554-3988 or 0172/852-0660. www. and 4 p. and then transfer to bus 724 or 726 to the camp. In 2002. you pay the guide (identifiable by a yellow sign). Jehovah’s Witnesses. are a great way to find out about Munich’s history and architecture.000 prisoners arrived (the exact number is unknown). No need to reserve. lasting about . and. In June and July. Captions are in German and 24€ ($29) spins around the sights of central Munich (including 45 minutes in a beer garden).Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 279 Dachau: Germany’s first concentration camp In 1933. more than 206. The 21⁄4-hour City Walk Tour starts daily at 10:45 a. admission is free. September to November 10 and March to April 15. The camp is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a. and more than 32. they were given a striped prison uniform. there’s also a 5:15 p. and mass executions by shooting.m. Alte-Roemar-Strasse 75 (% 08131/1741). The names of many of the dead are not known. disease.000 died. growing numbers of Jews. the meeting point for all walks is the New Rathaus directly under the Glockenspiel on Marienplatz. shortly after Hitler became German chancellor. All tours meet 15 minutes before setting off. April 16 through August. tour. Between 1933 and 1945.. For a more active experience. under the tower of the Altes Rathaus on Marienplatz. To get to the camp.” “antisocial elements.munich walktours. The daily tours leave at 2:30 p. 19km (12 miles) northwest of Munich. hunger. after disinfecting. Prisoners died through work. www.mikesbiketours.m. The company offers several options. at 11:30 a. take S-Bahn train S2 from the Hauptbahnhof to Dachau (direction: Petershausen). Munich Walk Tours (% 0171/274-0204. enter rooms in which citizens were stripped of all their belongings and rights. Visitors now follow the route of the prisoners. and where. February through November. Hitler’s Munich.m. Inscribed boards show the rooms’ original conditions and functions. conducted in English.m. The first to arrive were political prisoners (Communists and Social Democrats). Himmler ordered the first German concentration camp to be set up in Dachau. followed soon after by “beggars. after 1938.m. Dachau did not have gas chambers. but displays showing prisoners’ faces and videos of survivor interviews put a very human face on the horrific pain and suffering endured by these ordinary citizens.m. parts of the KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau (Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial). to 5 p..” homosexuals.

and hats. Marienplatz 11 (% 089/236-910.” Ludwig Beck am Rathauseck. has a large selection of high-quality Bavarian costumes. the plaza overflows with stalls selling toys. sugarcoated almonds. across from the main train station. handicrafts. Dirndls (traditional German dresses). The cost for each tour is 10€ ($13 for adults). smoked meats. and handicrafts. Hertie’s. the main square of the inner city. Maximilianstrasse (which also has the leading art galleries). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). such as coats. however. founded in 1842. Marienplatz at Christmas Marienplatz. Am Platzl 1/Sparkassenstrasse 10 (% 089/220-163. free for children younger than 14. and a mouthwatering array of traditional snacks and sweets. jackets. 9€ ($11) for those younger than 26. allpurpose department store. From late November through December. The best streets for elegant boutiques and specialty shops are Briennerstrasse. Maffeistrasse. and Theatinestrasse. Loden-Frey. Joop. covers all the important facts and sites that played a role in Munich’s Nazi era. a spiced red wine.280 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 21⁄2 hours. Dirndl-Ecke. is the scene of a famous Christkindl Markt. This city is not one in which you’re likely to find many bargains. including gingerbread. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). On these streets. you find branches of all the top European couturiers and Germany’s and Munich’s own designers: Jil Sander. Antiques devotees with deep pockets find what they want on Ottostrasse. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Bogner. is the place for all kinds of high-quality loden (a waterproof wool) wear. is Munich’s best department store and a good place to shop for handmade crafts from all across Germany. and when the topic is shopping. The biggest concentration of shops selling secondhand goods is on Westenriederstrasse. folk art. and Rudolph Moshammer. Munich ranks right up there with Paris and London. . and piping hot Glühwein. is a good. Maffeistrasse 7–9 (% 089/210-390. or Christmas Market. tree ornaments. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). Max Dietl. General shopping is less pricey on and around Marienplatz and along the main pedestrian streets Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauser Strasse. Shopping for Local Treasures Munich is the fashion capital of Germany. fruitcakes. Bahnhofplatz 7 (% 089/55120. Sometimes called “the Bloomingdale’s of Germany.

de) is one of the world’s great opera companies. Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (Tram 19). Munich is renowned for its opera and symphony concerts and theater. Havana Club. U-Bahn: Universität).staatsoper. But you can sit back in a leafy beer garden or in a beer hall. the jewel-box rococo theater in the Residenz (see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z.) You also find plenty of bars and dance clubs for late-night partying. you can sit with a coffee or a drink and order light meals or pastries. is a lively singles bar fueled by rum-based cocktails. as in the rest of the world. In a cafe. to midnight. Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera. S-Bahn: Rosenheimerplatz).m. Friday and Saturday from 9 a. pick up a copy of Monatsprogramm (1. tend to get going around 11 p. called a Kasse. Rosenheimerstrasse 5 (% 089/5481-8181. artists. is a sprawling. Performances of both opera and ballet take place in the National Theater. and Sunday from 9 a. to 1 a. The cafe is open Monday through Thursday from 8 a. Leopoldstrasse 7 (% 089/333-333.bayerische. or midnight. Residenzstrasse 1 (% 089/ 2185-1940. Checking out bars and clubs Cafes are quiet in the afternoon but pick up noise and steam as the evening wears on. To find out what’s playing. The club hours are . which generally is open during the day and an hour before the performance. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Few cities in Europe can rival Munich for the sheer number of musical and theatrical events. The famous Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic performs from midSeptember to July in the Philharmonic Hall in the Gasteig Kulturzentrum (Cultural Center).m.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 281 Discovering Nightlife in Munich Something always is going on in Munich. (See “The best beer gardens” earlier in this chapter. have a beer. smoke-filled hangout for writers. and enjoy the local scene. www. Tram: 19).muenchnerphilharmoniker. www. Altes Residenztheater (Cuvilliés Theater.50€/$2) from one of the tourist offices. % 089/2185-1920. S-Bahn: Isartor). and the occasional celeb. The best way to purchase tickets is to go directly to the venue’s box office. Nightclubs in Munich.m. Herrnstrasse 30 (% 089/291-884. to midnight. Bars and cafes Café Extrablatt.” earlier in this chapter) also is an important performance venue for plays and operas.m.m. As southern Germany’s cultural capital.

to 2 a.m. restaurants. If you’re calling within Munich. Frauenstrasse 11 (% 089/229-909. The place is open daily from 9 p. and Thursday through Saturday from 7 p.m.m. Tram: 19). 36 Maximilianstrasse (% 089/229-060. or for the police. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number. Bayerstrasse side (% 089/ 5508-8000. See also “Telephone” in the appendix. and soul. blues. Use 89 if you’re calling Munich from outside Germany.m. Tram 19). is open for mail pickup and check cashing Monday through Friday from 9 a.times-square. The bar is open Sunday through Friday from 5 p. this is it. to 1 a. Kunstpark Ost. is a complex of bars. Fast Facts: Munich American Express American Express. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). to 11:30 p.m.m. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof). to 3 a. to 6 to 3 a.m.m. and bar.m. call % 110.m. Cover ranges from 4€ to 8€ ($5–$10). Nachtcafé. For the fire department. mixed and/or invented by the owner. If you’re within Germany but not in Munich. and dance clubs.). All the bars open by 8 p. and Saturday from 9:30 a. offers expensive cocktails. Business Hours See the appendix for details. is one of the most happening nightspots in Munich. www.m. discos start around 10:30 p. Nightclubs Set within an old factory. restaurant. No cover charge.282 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Monday through Wednesday from 6 p. the music is jazz. use 089. and waves of “ordinary” patrons to its bar. Schumanns American Bar. (don’t show up before then).m. attracting soccer stars. and stage shows (which begin at 11 p. to 6 a. Maximilianplatz 5 (% 089/595-900. has computer workstations. City Code The city telephone code for Munich is 089. writers. to 1 a. Currency Exchange You can exchange money at the currency exchange in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) daily from 6 a. if you’re looking for a chic spot. Emergencies For emergency medical aid. movie stars.m. Internet Access Times Square Online Bistro in the Hauptbahnhof.m. The décor is updated 1950s. Grafingerstrasse 6 (% 089/ 4900-2730. and is open daily from 7:30 a. You can move from venue to venue according to your interest. Master’s Home. is done up like an Edwardian-era London club and attracts an eclectic assortment of locals and tourists. The club is open nightly from 6 p. Charles Schumann.m.m. If you get hungry there is a restaurant on the premises. to 12:30 p. .m.m. Promenadeplatz 6 (% 089/2280-1465. call % 112.m. Tram: 49). a bistro.

. and Sunday from 9 a. Saturday from 8 a. Neuhauserstrasse 11 (% 089/260-3021. call the public-transportation authority. Post Office The Postamt München (main post office) is across from the Hauptbahnhof. at % 089/4142-4344 or visit their Web site (www. Transit Assistance For information on the U-Bahn and trams. and Saturday from 9 a. especially pickpocketing and purseand camera-snatching. at Bahnhofplatz 1 (% 089/599-0870). Web Sites The tourist office Web site (www.m. has its share of crime. to 8 p.m. restaurants. . to 4 p.bavaria.m. 283 Safety Munich.m.mvv-muenchen. Restrooms You find restrooms in cafes. and beer halls throughout the Altstadt. MVV.m. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. to 8 muenchen. The office is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Pharmacies International Ludwig’s Apotheke.m. like all big cities. such as Marienplatz and the Hauptbahnhof. a drugstore where English is is the best site for general information. You find more information on Munich and Bavaria at Most robberies occur in the much-frequented tourist areas. to 4 p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz).m. to 3 p.

the southernmost part of Germany. Upper Bavaria (Oberbayern). Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. many Bavarians still regard that royal era with nostalgia. Bavaria remained a kingdom until 1918. will give you a taste of what Bavaria has to offer.100 years. the region didn’t become a kingdom until 1806. houses with fancifully painted facades. gently rises through foothills covered with verdant pastures. by order of Napoleon. when a German republic replaced the Bavarian monarchy. Visitors find a great deal to enjoy in this mountainous region in addition to Ludwig’s castles. historic buildings. both easy daytrips from Munich.” they mean only one: Ludwig II. one of Germany’s most beautiful scenic drives and one of the best ways to sample the delights of Bavaria. the fairy-tale castle of Ludwig II ᮣ Visiting the alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen ᮣ Day-tripping to Oberammergau and Schloss Linderhof lthough Bavaria’s recorded history dates back some 1. Brief as it was.Chapter 16 Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring the medieval towns along the Romantic Road ᮣ Discovering Neuschwanstein.” depending on your interpretation) whose castles at Linderhof and Neuschwanstein draw millions of visitors. lake-splashed countryside. When they speak wistfully about “the king. the legendary “dream king” (or “mad king. Bavaria abounds with romantic villages. and nature on a grand scale. or Romantic Road. A . Ludwig’s castles mark the end of the Romantische Strasse. rococo churches. and groves of evergreens to the dramatic heights of the Alps that divide Germany and western Austria. world-class ski and winter-sports resorts.

Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 285 Greetings from Bavaria In Bavaria. all of which I describe later in this chapter. roughly. many of them rebuilt after World War II (WWII). The bishops of Würzburg. Würzburg was in ancient times an important town in the duchy of Franconia. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. or Romantic From Munich (Chapter 15) you can drive 119km (74 miles) southwest to Füssen and drive the route in reverse. Driving these 290km (180 miles) of specially marked lanes and secondary roads. were also princes of Franconia. renting a car at Frankfurt airport (Chapter 20) is easy. you can drive southeast 119km (74 miles) to Würzburg. which spread across southcentral Germany. you can hit all the highlights. In three or four days of very easy driving. visit the Romantic Road’s Web site (www. people generally use the greeting grüss Gott (pronounced grease got) rather than guten Morgen (good morning) or guten Tag (good day). From there.” Goodbye is für Gott (for God. The charms of this old. fear got) or für dich (for you. it would be Bavaria’s Romantische Strasse. winding from the vineyard-clad hills surrounding Würzburg south to the green alpine pastures and craggy forested peaks around Neuschwanstein Castle. fear dikh). “God greets you. travelers enjoy an unfolding panorama of surprisingly beautiful rural landscapes interspersed with a host of small medieval cities.) If you’re arriving in Frankfurt. The saying means. Augsburg. For more information. The two sights of most . lively university town surrounded by miles of vineyards. Würzburg: Franconian Fortress Würzburg on the River Main is a lovely. and Füssen. graceful river and wine town are most obvious in the Altstadt. and remained so until Napoleon ended the power of the church in 1802. (See “The Romantic Road” map in this chapter.romantischestrasse. The major towns for overnight stays are Würzburg. You also can visit these towns by train as daytrips from Munich or Frankfurt. The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria If I had to recommend only one scenic drive in Germany. the official start of the Romantic Road. the old city center with its leafy squares and historic buildings. Though today it’s part of Bavaria. who took possession of the town in 1050.

m. Diners Club.m. to 3 p. Diners Club. www. with nice designer touches and a smallish bathroom. and pickles in sour cream. Marktplatz 9 (% 0931/37-23-98. and Visa are accepted. MasterCard. and Visa are accepted. www. The to 6 p. Dettelbachergasse 2. Each room is different. Finding information The tourist information office. Rack rates for a double room run from 100€ to 210€ ($125–$262). The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information on the city. to midnight. Diners Club.bahn. or Zwiebelkuchen (zwee-bel-kook-en. an onion tart).) Getting there If you come by car from Frankfurt. www.m.m.).m. breakfast included. fruity Franconian wines of the region go well with anything. (Jan–Mar until 1 p. is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. (Jan–Mar until 4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany interest to tourists are the Residenz. to 2 p. Maritim Hotel Würzburg. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday 11 a. American Express. Pleichortorstrasse 5. and Sunday 11 a. and Sundays April through October from 10 a. take the A3 southeast and follow the signs to Würzburg. Main courses range from 8€ to 18€ ($10–$22). wuerzburg. light. their earlier fortress-castle high on a hill overlooking the town. herring filets with apples. . MasterCard. American Express. in the Hotel Greifensteiner Hof (described in the preceding section). is a charming 40-room hotel right in the heart of the Altstadt behind the Marienkirche.m. Staying in Würzburg Greifensteiner Hof. the baroque palace of the princebishops. American Express.m. and the Festung Marienburg. You can easily reach Würzburg by train from Frankfurt (11⁄2 hours).m. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/ 35170. or anywhere else in Germany.m. Try fresh fish in Riesling wine sauce. Dining in Würzburg The Fränkische Stuben. and Visa are accepted. is a pleasant. Saturday from 10 a. with the big buffet breakfast an additional 15€ ($19). onions. to 2 p. modern hotel within easy walking distance of the Altstadt. roasted meats. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/30530. (See the “Würzburg” map in this chapter.maritim. is a lovely place to sit outside on a warm evening and dine on Franconian specialties of the Würzburg area. Dettelbachergasse 2 (% 09861/87809). www.). For train information. A standard double room goes for 60€ to 90€ ($75–$112) per night. Munich (21⁄2 hours) call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. The medium-sized rooms are decorated in an unobtrusive contemporary style and have good-sized bathrooms with tub and shower.

Rothenburg o.Schongau oberdorf Wildsteig Bo Wangen im Allgäu Allg de ns ee Peiting Rottenbuch Murnau Steingaden Wieskirche Wies Oberammergau Wies Schwangau 17 Neuschwanstein Walchen Hohenschwangau Walchensee Penzberg Füssen ssen B11 SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA LEC ER EN AL L P HT A GarmischPartenkirchen Zugspitze .d.D.T. Schillingf rst Schillingfürst Ansbach Schwabach Roth 2 KIS 2 Heilbronn Murrhardt Backnang Winnenden 29 Crailsheim E43 25 Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl Ellingen CH E45 Feuchtwangen Gunzenhousen Gunzenhausen 19 Wallerstein Aalen 29 Schwabisch Schwäbisch Gmünd Gm nd rdlingen Nördlingen 25 ALB Harburg 16 FR Ingolstadt Neuberg-ander-Donau Donauw rth Donauwörth AD RO AD RO AN CC M TITI RO AN M RO 16 16 Ellwangen (Jagst) UC H Heidenheim an der Brenz Goppingen Kirchheim unter Teck E52 E43 28 Nürtingen rtingen 28 Dillingen an der Donau AN Ä 300 Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Munich 2 Ulm Augsburg 17 E A LB To Munich E52 E50 Ehingen (Donau) 30 E43 312 Friedberg Area of detail Krumbach (Schwaben) Olching Fürstenfeldbruck rstenfeldbruck Landsberg E54 am Lech TIC ROAD ROMAN Biberach an der Riß Ri 312 E54 Mindelheim Herbertingen 32 30 Landsberg 17 Memmingen Kaufbeuren Leutkirch im Allgäu Allg Kempten Immenstadt im Allgäu Allg Lindau Sonthofen Diessen Ammersee Starnberg Herrsching Hohenfurch Hohen B2 Starnbergersee E533 Weingarten Ravensburg E43/54 Markt.T.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 287 The Romantic Road Schweinfurt Aschaffenburg E41 E45 0 20 mi Bamberg 0 Bamberg 20 km Wiesentheid 3 E43 8 E45 73 Würzburg rzburg Werthelm 47 RO A D RO M AN TI C Castle Church Forchheim Erlangen 27 Mittenberg Amorbach 27 Tauberbischofsheim Lauda-k nigshofen Lauda-königshofen Röttingham ttingham 290 Creglingen 25 Bad Mergentheim Weikersheim Weikersheim Fürth rth Nürnberg rnberg Herrgottskirche HO H OH HE ENLO N LOH H E R EB E BE ENE E50 O.

perhaps. reached by crossing the late-15th-century Alte Mainbrücke (Old Main Bridge) and following the marked footpath (you can also take the no. up to the Festung Marienburg. % 09317/20-59-40). the formal and elegant Hofgarten. a court chapel with colored marble columns and two important altar paintings by Tiepolo. to 6 both slathered with a riot of fanciful stucco work. Mary’s Church). 9 bus from the Residenz). or roast beef with fried onions and potatoes make for filling feasts. For more information on this popular event.50). the 345-room Residenz.288 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankish foods with an occasional French twist are served at the atmospheric Ratskeller Würzburg.50–$19). Many of the concerts by renowned musicians are performed in the beautiful baroque rooms of the Residenz.m. Langgasse 1 (% 0931/13021). Exploring Würzburg The town is compact enough so that you can walk everywhere — except. The Residenz is open daily from 9 a. was completed in 1744 by architect Balthasar Neuman for Prince-Bishop Johann von Schönborn. or stairway. just north of it.m. (Nov–Mar 10 a. with tables on the square in good weather. the liveliest square in Würzburg. or court garden. admission is 4. Crowning the high slope on the west side of the Main is the Festung Marienburg (Marienburg Fortress. you come to the Rathaus. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. mozartfest-wuerzburg. where main courses range from 6€ to 15€ ($7.m. Continuing west on Domstrasse from the cathedral. Guided tours in English are given daily at 11 a. Kilian. accessible by a scenic footpath up or bus no.wvv. and. Homemade sausage mixed with fried potatoes and eggs. you come to the Romanesque Dom (Cathedral) St. The most important areas to visit are the vaulted Treppenhaus. Domstrasse (% 0931/3211830). Considered one of the most important palaces in Europe and a masterpiece of the baroque era. Following Hofstrasse west from the Residenz.m. and the Weisser Saal (White Hall) and Gartensaal (Garden Room). with a ceiling covered by a huge fresco with mythological allegories painted by Tiepolo. for local transportation information call % 0931/36-13-52 or visit www.). and Visa are accepted.m. call % 0931/37-23-36 or visit the festival’s Web site (www. Residenzplatz 2 (% 0931/35-51-70).–4 p. Behind the palace. The 9. American Express. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2.m. which takes place during the first three weeks in June.50€ ($5. MasterCard. the Marktplatz (Market Square). which will take you right up to the gate.50). One of the annual highlights of Würzburg’s cultural year is the Mozart Festival. is open daily from noon to midnight. also is worth visiting. the Hofkirche. one of the oldest churches . Marienburg Fortress is a huge complex of buildings that includes within its walls the eighthcentury Marienkirche (St. begun in 1040 and rebuilt after extensive damage in WWII. and 3 p.

Neue Universität g rrin de San rich Fried tos E b ter g Rin Südbahnhof en s d tr. r Augustinerst Büttnerstr. The one must-see attraction in this local history collection is the room devoted to the carved wooden sculptures of Tilman Riemenschneider. H e i nes tr. Z e l l er S i Dom Altes 3 (St.m. Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg From Würzburg. str .75) adults.Berliner Wörthstr. rst ine z u tr. 6 brücke . Würzburg Munich Hauge rring . Juliusspital Schönbornstr. Pro Neum me nad anne Renn weg 7 MAINVIERTEL Saalgasse ALTSTADT Dom 5 er s chu lstr . Sand l a ci nts 0 1/8 mile Ludwigsbrücke Am tenden Stu haus Fr ie tr. Alte Universität Bal HOFGARTEN Burkarder Tor Leistenstr. 0 125 meters ACCOMMODATIONS and DINING Fränkische Stuben 2 Greifensteiner Hof 2 Maritim Hotel Würzburg 1 Ratskeller Würzburg 3 ATTRACTIONS Alte Mainbrücke 4 Dom 6 Festung Marienburg & Mainfrankisches Museum 5 Residenz 7 in Germany. Kilian) Rathaus n ai Alte M 4 Domstr.50€ ($2) students. str d Lu weger Ring kai nen Kra n Mai 1 Juliu s e enad prom tr. to 5 p. str genrin Koell Hauptbahnhof (train station) Rönt g erst r. - Re nn tr.m. Neubaustr. Ot tr. and the Mainfränkisches Museum. admission is 3€ ($3. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 289 i Würzburg Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Information er im he ch hö its Ve . e ls m m e S Kr o a t e n g a sse Platz r. wi gs r. the great Gothic master woodcarver (see the nearby sidebar). 1. (until 4 p. San der str. the Romantic Road leaves the River Main and follows Route 27 in a southwesterly direction to the town of Tauberbischofsheim Ka N erg sstr. rone eik Dr Th r te ea Karmelitenstr Mai nkai . Marktplatz Ka p E ic h h n or . tpo Lui lds tr. . nstr.m. in winter). Kais sden Frie rücke b ikerst 2 th.

and 2 to 5 p. The church is open daily from 9:15 a. Sun 10:30 a. a palace used by royal princes and the medieval order of Teutonic Knights. to 5:30 p. During the Peasants’ Revolt of 1525. Devoted to armor and weaponry. whose incredibly expressive wood sculptures are the highlight of the Mainfränkisches Museum. admission is 3.m.m. the master woodcarver from Würzburg. to 12:30 p.. is one of the major highlights along the Romantic Road. It’s interesting .–5 p. the only museum in the world devoted to the history of thimbles. You can see more work by this great artist at the Herrgottskirche near Creglingen on the Romantic Road.20€ ($1. This small.m.50€ ($1. (Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 2–5 p. admission is 1. has been a tourist destination for nearly a century. admission is 1. and between 1505 and 1510. % 07933/370).). to 5 p. worth a stop to see the famous carved wooden altar by Tilman Riemenschneider in the Herrgottskirche.m. and from . the Deutschordensmuseum (Teutonic Knights Museum.. As a result of his political views.75) adults. Riemenschneider.m. was built where a farmer plowing his fields claimed to have found a sacred host. % 07931/52212). dating from 1389.m.50€ ($1. 1.290 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Tilman Riemenschneider: Würzburg’s master woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531).m.80€ ($4. The town. The church.m.m. if you’re into that sort of thing. you buy your ticket at a machine outside the church. 47km (29 miles) south of Würzburg.90). just 51km (32 miles) southeast of Würzburg. within the palace complex. described in the “Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg” section of this chapter. located on a signposted road about 2km (11⁄2 miles) south of Creglingen in Herrgottstal. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. created an extraordinarily beautiful altar with figures representing the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin framed by scenes from her life. . a completely intact walled medieval city located on a high promontory above the Tauber River. . It quickly became a place of pilgrimage. Riemenschneider was imprisoned and tortured. Another 18km (11 miles) on B19 brings you to Creglingen. where you pick up B290 to Bad Mergentheim. Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories Rothenburg. this master woodcarver sided with the rebels and incurred the implacable wrath of the prince-bishops.50) for children 6 to 12. is open Tuesday through Sunday 10:30 a. Across the road from the church is the small Fingerhutmuseum (Thimble Museum.90). attractive spa town is worth a stop to stroll along its pretty cobbled streets and to have a quick look at the Deutschordenschloss. He died shortly after being released from prison.m. serving as both a councilor and mayor.. lived and worked in Würzburg for 48 years.

de).Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 291 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Ci 1 ty wall Bezold weg Kling enschutt Ro se e ngas Kling 3 5 Schrannenplatz Ju d e n gass e 2 G 4 e alg nga sse sen ga sse Klostergasse Herrn g asse 6 7 8 10 i DINING Burgerkeller 5 Gasthof Marktplatz 6 Ratsstube 8 ATTRACTIONS Castle Gardens 11 Klingenbastei 1 Marktplatz 9 Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum 12 Plönlein 13 Rathaus und er Ratstrinkstube 7 R iv r e Reichsstadtmuseum 2 a Spitalbastei 14 St. Don’t let that deter you from visiting this remarkable reminder of Germany’s medieval past. www. For train information. continue south from Creglingen on B290. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. (See the “Rothenburg ob der Tauber” map in this chapter. . but you need to transfer at Würzburg or Ansbach and again at Steinach.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. Heidelberg. You also can reach Rothenburg by train from Nuremberg. or Stuttgart.-Jakobskirche 3 e N a ug sse Ci Hamburg 12 ga eng W ty sse wa Berlin G E R MA NY am Main 11 Kirche Burg gas se Al a St dt t e gr a be MarktFranziskaner platz n 9 Rödergasse ll Frankfurt Cit y wall 13 T Heilig-GeistKirche 0 Spitalgasse Rothenburg ob der Tauber Munich ub Church Information 1/8 mile 125 meters i N ACCOMODATIONS Burghotel 4 Hotel Eisenhut 10 14 0 May through September you’ll likely encounter hordes of visitors.bahn.

50). inexpensive rooms (38€–48€/$47–$60.m.. Expect to pay 6€ to 10€ ($7. (closed Jan–Mar). carless Marktplatz.. The Ratsstube. MasterCard and Visa are accepted.m.–1 p. Herrngasse 24 (% 09861/2126).gasthofmarktplatz. some with a nice view of busy. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). Marktplatz (% 09861/40492. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. more like German comfort food. Rothenburg’s premier hotel. and the entire hotel is nonsmoking.m. local cooking and sample local wines. Staying in Rothenburg See Chapter 22 for a description of Hotel Eisenhut ($$–$$$$). www. and on Sunday from noon to 6 p. Main courses range from 8€ to 14€ ($10–$17).rothenburg. American-style breakfasts also are available. housed in a 16th-century cellar (with tables outside in nice weather).m. Boutique hotel standards a pork schnitzel with cream sauce. and Visa are accepted. to 3 p. Standard dishes include Maultaschensuppe (stuffed pasta in broth) and Nuremberg sausages on sauerkraut. basic. to 2 p. in the town hall. MasterCard.m. and Sat 10 a. has a tavernlike interior and is a favorite of those who prefer hearty cooking (including sauerbraten and venison) without a lot of fuss and bother. and 6 to 9 American It isn’t gourmet by any stretch. old-fashioned Swabian dishes. and Jägerschnitzel. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information about the city. 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber (% 09861/94890. prettily decorated rooms with views out across the Tauber Valley. The restaurant is open daily except Wednesday from 11:30 a. is picturesque.292 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Finding information Tourist Information. from its half-timbered facade at the end of a cobblestone cul-de-sac to its large. Marktplatz 6 (% 09861/92411). on the square to the right of the Rathaus.m. and 6 to 9 p. www. serves hearty.). . Gasthof Marktplatz.m.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m.m. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday 11 a. Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Burgerkeller. Everything about the 15-room Burg Hotel.m.m.m. Klostergasse 1–3. rothenburg. is a pleasant spot to dine on good.burghotel. including breakfast. www. Diners Club.m.m. such as Käsespätzle (cheesecoated noodles) cooked with onions. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. No credit cards are accepted.m. Double rooms go for 90€ to 170€ ($112–$212). to 11 p. Grüner Markt 10 (% 09861/6722. (Nov–Apr Mon–Fri until 5 p. is open May through October Monday through Friday from 9 a.50€ ($9. breakfast included). parking costs 7. The Gasthof also rents out simple. to 2 p. to 6 p.50–$13) for a main course.

2. From the top of its 50m (165-ft. He said he would spare the town from destruction if one of the town burghers could down the huge tankard in one draught. Burggasse 3–5 (% 09861/ 5359). part 16th-century Renaissance. a 14th-century hospital with Rothenburg’s only 18th-century baroque facade houses the macabre Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime Museum).. called Die Meistertrunk (The Master Draught). when hundreds of citizens dress up in period costumes and re-create the period of the Master Draught. and 10 p. an old inn with three clocks on its gabled facade.m. Windows on either side of the lowest clock open at 11 a. captured the Protestant city of Rothenburg and was given. 3. Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber Medieval walls encircle almost half of Rothenburg.m. in 1881. November and January through February daily from 2 to 4 p.m. noon..25).m. At the center of Rothenburg is the bustling Marktplatz (Market Square) dominated by the Rathaus (% 09861/40492).50€ ($4. You can buy them in bakeries all across town. December and March daily from 10 a. Here’s a rare chance to see chastity belts. admission 1€/$1. and 1–5 p. Former mayor Nusch accepted the challenge and succeeded. thus saving Rothenburg and giving himself a three-day hangover. take a walk on a portion of the town ramparts from the massive 16thcentury Spitalbastei (a medieval tower-gate at the end of the Spitalgasse) to the Klingenbastei (another tower-gate). commander of the armies of the Catholic League. is the Ratstrinkstube (Councilors’ Tavern).m. as victor. the other half sits on a high ridge above the Tauber River.m. chief protagonists in the drinking bout that saved Rothenburg. shame masks. This historical episode was performed as a festival play. to 6 p.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 293 The Master Draught: How Mayor Nusch saved Rothenburg In 1631. to 4 p. during the Thirty Years’ War. and an iron maiden. round pastries covered with powdered sugar.50) adults.m. a shame flute for bad musicians.) tower. Then just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere in one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. For an excellent visual introduction. a 31⁄2-liter (6-pint) tankard of wine. a dunking basket.30€ ($3) for students. Admission is 3. look for a Rothenburg specialty called Schneeballen (snowballs) — crisp.m.. and 1. South of the Rathaus.–12:30 p. . 2. part 13th-century Gothic. and now serving as the tourist information office. 9.m. The museum is open April through October daily from 9:30 a. to reveal the figures of General Tilly and Herr Nusch. Medieval crime and punishment are the fascinatingly gruesome subjects of the museum’s displays. As you’re walking. General Tilly.m. you get a great view of the town (open Apr–Oct 9:30 a. The play forms the centerpiece of a weekend festival that takes place every September in Rothenburg.. Adjacent to the Rathaus.

and houses. to 5:15 p.m.90) for children 6 to 18. an upper and a lower.) The fine painted-glass windows in the church choir date from the late Gothic period.m. November and January through March daily 10 a. churches. Grüner Markt (% 09861/7166). a masterpiece created by the Würzburg sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider. just the picturesque streets. where two streets. Shopping in Rothenburg Kunstwerke Friese.294 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Gothic St... converge. armaments. which is housed in a 700year-old Dominican nunnery with well-preserved cloisters. Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg The charm of driving along the Romantic Road is enhanced by the bucolic landscapes seen between the villages. With a population of about 260. Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance Augsburg is a city of pleasant surprises.50 (65¢) children. It displays medieval panel paintings. you also pass neatly tended farms and fields. Klostergasse 15 (% 09861/700-620). Open hours are April through October daily from 10 a.m. music boxes.. and dolls.m. (Riemenschneider’s work also is on view in Würzburg and in the Herrgottskirche.50€ ($1. One particularly pretty spot with lovely views over the Tauber Valley is Castle Gardens. The church is open daily April through October from 9 a. described earlier in this chapter. to noon and 2 to 4 p. Herrngasse 1 (% 09861/4090). James).m. a park on the site of the imperial castle. North and south of Rothenburg. convent hall. Klosterhof 5 (% 09861/93-9043). Admission is 1. Just northwest of the Jakobskirche is the Reichsstadtmuseum (City Museum). and kitchen.-Jakobskirche (Church of St. Driving along B25. it’s the largest town along the Romantic Road and serves as a . Also look for the photogenic corner known as the Plönlein. pewter beer steins. December daily 10 a.m. a collection of gold coins.50) for students and seniors.m. is worth visiting to see the Heiliges-Blut-Altar (Altar of the Holy Blood). drinking vessels. on the way to Augsburg. specializes in cuckoo clocks and carries Hummel figurines. to 5 p. Rothenburg has plenty of picturesque nooks and crannies to explore. and objects of local interest. 1.m. to 4:45 p. November through March daily from 1 to 4 p.50€ ($2) adults. Two walled medieval towns worth a stop and stroll are Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen. 2€ ($2. squares. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. No must-see sights are in either town. Every day is Christmas at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Weinachtsdoft (Christmas Village). leafy Tauber Valley.m. a Christmas-related emporium loaded with thousands upon thousands of Christmas ornaments. the drive parallels the lovely.75) for adults.000. 0.

under the patronage of the enormously wealthy Fugger family. Graben i N us e rstr.G Ob Fugg r. The city was founded some 2. tenau Grot glerg. (See the “Augsburg” map in this chapter. Ulrich und Kirchgasse St. Brech Romantikhotel t Brechthaus 4 OblatterwallAugsburger Hof rstr turm Dom St. ethov enstr str . 0 0 Church Information 1/8 mile Stettenstr. rad– ra Kon chiessg S sse kerga Bäc . Trains from Frankfurt (trip time about 3 hours) Le ch h 3 r. . Am S all ch w am Main Frankfurt Kapuzine r g Augsburg Munich r. J ako ber uer ma Unt.igst r . Rathausplatz An 9 nas i Fuggerei Kap p ene ck Jakoberwallturm Vogeltor Z e ug g er . A stroll through Augsburg reveals an attractive urban landscape loaded with historic buildings. ass ilian erg Maxim int W llee er–A nau Ade benstr. erst Be e str.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 295 Augsburg uz re Au f m de Je su i K St 1 2 hl e ass ng te rg Hofgarten Lu dw Obstmarkt Stadt. nto ue Fr a eg Ho he r W L au Mittl. r au lm allst e g Vo berw o Hamburg Jak Berlin Katharine ngasse 10 11 GERMANY Forster 12 H a l l s t r.000 years ago by the Roman emperor Augustus and reached its cultural zenith during the Renaissance. em St.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. Anna 9 a Un f. Afra Prinzstr. Armen h ausg. theater Karlstr. Jakoberst r. ACCOMMODATIONS ATTRACTIONS Bert. Rotes Tor 125 meters gateway to the Bavarian Alps. continue on B25 south from Rothenburg to Augsburg. G ra b en i ter n rabe . and the lively ambience of a university town. charming corners. 7 8 Jakobertor tr. Maria 3 e d e Rirestaurant) (hotel and 1 Fuggerei 8 Steigenberger Drei Fugger-Stadtpalais 11 FünfgratMohren 10 Mozarthaus 2 turm Perlachturm 5 ü DINING b s n Rathaus 6 Fuggerei Stube G 7ä a elsu Schaezlerpalais 12 c a r St. Spen e Mauer b P Ra u h ec w o ff st r rdsberg Leonha 4 5 6 P il g e r h a usstr. Ulrichs Weite G a s e platz s K itzenmarkt t Pro vinos Schwibbogen platz R boldstr.

Auf dem Kreuz 2 (% 0821/34-30-50). though the rooms vary in size and level of finesse. dine at the restaurant in the Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. The hotel’s restaurant is one of the best in town. on Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. Jakoberstrasse 26 (% 0821/30870).augsburg. the rest of the year (7€/$8.296 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Munich (trip time about 30 minutes) arrive frequently throughout the day. MasterCard. 86152 Augsburg (% 0821/34-30-50. where the rear dining room is paneled in pale linden wood and the menu contains lots of Bavarian and Swabian specialties. Diners distributes city maps. For train information. Larger (and quieter) rooms face an inner courtyard.–1 p.). Rack rates for a double room range from 145€ to 165€ ($181–$206). Expect to pay 12€ to 25€ ($15–$31) for main courses. Doubles go for 97€ to 130€ ($121–$162) and include a good breakfast buffet. serves generous portions of Swabian food with a few “inter- . and Visa are accepted. and Saturday from 10 a. Rathausplatz (% 0821/502-0724. Maximilianstrasse 40. The office also offers a two-hour bus tour May through October Thursday through Sunday at 10 a. and Visa are accepted.m. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. is the town’s full-service luxuryoriented hotel. an unpretentious local eatery. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. Auf dem Kreuz 2. and can help you find a to 6 p. Diners Club. www. with marble-clad bathrooms with big bathtubs.m. Fuggerei Stube.m. www. Staying in Augsburg Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. American Express. MasterCard. (9€/$11). on Saturdays at 2 p. Dining in Augsburg For fine food and impeccable service in lovely surroundings.m.m. American Express.m. Service is friendly and efficient. (Sun in summer 10 a. augsburg-tourismus. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.75).m. The hotel’s new (2006) Meder’s Bar and Grill serves smaller-portion German and international dishes throughout the day. Rooms are nicely done with exposed beams in some and small but well-designed bathrooms with showers. is a 36-room boutiquestyle hotel located just minutes from central Rathausplatz and all Augsburg attractions. The best are large and comfortable. The best way to appreciate Augsburg’s architectural and cultural heritage is by taking the walking tour (in German and English) offered by the tourist office daily at 2 p. 86150 Augsburg (% 0821/ to 1 p. open Monday through Friday 9 a. All tours begin at the Rathaus. dispenses general information. The 102-room Steigenberger Drei Mohren.m.augsburger-hof. from May through October.

Am Rathausplatz 2 (% 0821/324-9180). and still in use today. to 6 p. onions.50). Right next to the church. the Schaezlerpalais. In 1518.. to 6 p. .m. and Visa are accepted. MasterCard. pastries. chicken breast with curry and rice. Look for potato cream soup with mushrooms. you’ll find the Fuggerei. to 2 p. houses the Bavarian State Gallery.75). Sunday 11:30 a. is open May through October from 10 a.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 297 national” dishes. of what was once the Fugger-Stadtpalais (Fugger City Palace). is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. The Rathaus. and vegetarian offerings. admission is 3.m. The Augustus fountain in front of the Rathaus was dedicated on the occasion of the town’s 1. Maximilianstrasse 46 (% 0821/324-4125). and Cranach. capped by a distinctive dome called an “Augsburg onion” (you’ll see these onion domes on churches all across Augsburg and as you head south into Bavaria). Martin Luther stayed in the adjoining monastery when he was called to Augsburg to recant his 95 Theses before a papal emissary. designed by Elias Holl and completed in 1620. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a. and roast potatoes. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. A late-18th-century mansion. produce. to 3 p. As you stroll along Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. on the Annahof. 10 a. noted for its old masters painting collection with works by Dürer. Afra.m. East of Maximilianstrasse. a former Carmelite monastery church dating from 1321. Maximilianstrasse. one of the most important building complexes in Augsburg.. which contains paintings by Lucas Cranach and the chapel of the Fugger family. A pair of churches. is dominated by two imposing Renaissance-era buildings. The first almshouses in the world.m.m.m. Rathausplatz. calves’ liver with apples.m. If you climb to the top of the soaring spire of the Perlachturm (Perlach Tower). on Annahof. and much more. is one of the most significant secular buildings of the German Renaissance. The church. Exploring Augsburg Augsburg’s main square. stretches south from Rathausplatz.50€ ($4.m. you find the city market with stalls selling flowers. The tower. and 5:30 to 11 p. stands St. Ulrich and St. which can be visited only as part of a Rathaus tour (daily May–Oct. Anna. on Jakobsplatz in the old residential quarter of town.. and 3 p. or Ladies’ Court. St. both dating from 1500. the Fuggerei was built in 1523 by Jacob Fugger the Rich.m.m. both considerably rebuilt after damage in WWII.m. American Express. to 6 p. next to the Rathaus. demarcate the southern end of Maximilianstrasse. West of Rathausplatz. The interior is famous for its sumptuous Goldener Saal (Golden Hall). duck into the courtyard of Maximilianstrasse 36 to have a look at the Damenhof. 7€/$8. you’ll be rewarded with a marvelous view of the old town center. Holbein.600th birthday in 1594.m. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). ornamented by three large Renaissance-era fountains and lined with shops and fine patrician houses. fixed-price menu 19€ ($24).

. .m. Dom St. Hoher Weg (% 0821/316-6353). but then the verdant (or snow-covered) pastures of the Bavarian Alps appear. lets you glimpse the interior of one of the cottages as it looked in centuries past. I strongly recommend that you make a short detour to Wies. the compound looks like a miniature town with 67 identical cottages containing 147 small apartments. gilded stucco. Wolfie’s great-grandfather Franz Mozart. On this segment of the drive. backtrack to B17 and follow it south to Neuschwanstein. the Fuggerei Museum. a church.25). who worked on the church with his brother from 1746 to 1754. Ludwig II’s famous castle in the Bavarian Alps. Frauentorstrasse 30 (% 0821/324-3984). are found in the south transept of Augsburg’s cathedral. Behind a rather sober facade. statues. The church is open daily from 8 a. and a park.m. Altered during the centuries. and bright frescoes. Mittlere Gasse 13 (% 0821/3198810). paintings by Hans Holbein the Elder. columns. Leopold. Surrounded by walls and gates (locked 10 p.m.m. to 5 p. If you’re a fan of Mozart. (Apr–Sept until 7 p. Tiny but fascinating.). One of the world’s most exuberantly decorated buildings. admission is 1€ ($1. where you find the Wieskirche (% 08862/501). you may want to take a look at the humble Mozarthaus. a remarkable pilgrimage church in a beautiful alpine meadow (the name means “church in the meadow”). To return to the Romantic Road. It’s open March through December daily from 10 a. The Mozarthaus and the Brechthaus are open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. the lightflooded interior with its enormous cupola shimmers with a superabundance of woodcarvings.m.–5 a.m. this rococo masterpiece was created by Dominikus Zimmermann (1685–1766).50€ ($2).298 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Wieskirche: Masterpiece in a meadow On the stretch of B17 from Augsburg to Füssen. Admission is free. to 6 p. where Wolfgang’s father.. Maria. was born. Auf dem Rain 7 (% 0821/324-2779) was the birthplace of playwright Bertolt Brecht (1898–1956) and today serves as a Brecht memorial. admission to each is 1. the Romantic Road passes through some industrialized areas that aren’t particularly appealing. a master mason reduced to penury.m. Some of the oldest stained-glass windows in Germany. and a 14th-century bronze door. The Brechthaus. 6km (4 miles) southeast of the town of Steingaden off B17. dating from the 12th century. to 5 p. Residents pay an annual rent of 1€ (equivalent to one old Rhenish guilder) and are expected to pray three times a day for the soul of their benefactor. a fountain.m.m.). lived in the Fuggerei almshouse at Mittlere Gasse 14. the cathedral features Gothic frescoes.

Hohenschwangau. was the fairy-tale concoction of Maximilian’s son.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 299 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air Located 116km (72 miles) southwest of Munich. Queen Maria of Prussia. then Bavaria’s crown prince. 9713) arrive from Füssen. head south along B17 to Schwangau. 25. Tours in English are available throughout the day. On some days. is the less remarkable and more intimate of the two. Be prepared for long lines (sometimes up to 3 hours) in the summer. try to arrive as soon as the castles open in the morning. the nearest large town (described later in this chapter). bought it in 1832.m. especially in August. Ten buses a day (no. Maximilian II. You can see the castles only on guided tours. Finding information and buying tickets Information about both castles and the region in general is available in Schwangau at the Kurverwaltung (tourist office) in the Rathaus.m. Münchenerstrasse 2 (% 08362/81980). A tour number and entry time are printed on your ticket. feed your ticket into the turnstile in front of the respective castle.m. From there. .. to noon. Ludwig II spent much of his joyless childhood at Hohenschwangau with his strait-laced father and his mother. Neuschwanstein.000 people visit. King Ludwig II. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. On the ruins. A digital sign informs you when your tour is ready. The tour guide will meet you inside. The rooms of Hohenschwangau were designed and furnished in a ponderous “Gothic Castle” style that was fashionable in the 1830s and 1840s. the most photographed building in Germany. he built the Neo-Gothic castle you see today and used it as a summer holiday residence. which last about 35 minutes each. receiving nearly a million visitors a year. Getting there If you’re driving from Augsburg along the Romantic Road. Exploring Hohenschwangau The castle was a 600-year-old ruin when Ludwig’s father. parking costs 4€ ($5). the two Bavarian royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein (and the nearby town of Füssen) mark the end of the Romantic Road. it’s a 7km (4-mile) drive along a signposted road. to 5 p. When the time comes. built by Maximilian II in 1836. One parking lot serves both castles. A ticket office near the parking lot of the castles sells tickets for both Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. Saturday from 9 a.) The royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein are the most popular tourist attractions in Germany. To save yourself time. open Monday through Friday from 8 a.

m. The Hall of the Swan Knight. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults and 8€ ($10) for students and children 6 to 15.” later in this chapter). If you don’t want to walk.80€ ($2. handsome. A more picturesque way to reach Neuschwanstein is by horse-drawn carriage. is one of the castle’s most attractive chambers. and even a musical have been written about him. you can take a bus to Marienbrücke. which begins at the ticket office. A patron of the composer Richard Wagner.” This strange. Three days later. Ludwig went so far as to reconstruct the Venus grotto from Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. Ludwig grew bored with the affairs of state and eventually became more and more obsessed with acting out his extravagant fantasies. who was first invited to Hohenschwangau by a teenaged Ludwig. at age 41. October 16 to March 14 hours are 9:30 a. The carriage ride.” For others. Richard Wagner. the first palace that he built (see “A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles. Biographies. and the grand piano on which the two played duets. March 15 to October 15 hours are 8:30 a. Ludwig II was only 18 years old when he was crowned king of Bavaria. and in 1886. From Marienbrücke. At Linderhof. The bus ride.300 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Ludwig II: Madman or dreamer? For some. Tall. he was found drowned in Lake Starnberg on the outskirts of Munich. he was declared insane. he often had Wagner’s operas performed for his own solitary pleasure. plays. Ludwig’s excesses eventually threatened to bankrupt the kingdom. films. a bridge that crosses over the Pöllat Gorge and offers a panoramic view of the castle dramatically perched on its crag above. is open daily. 170-step stairway and takes about ten minutes. For many years. The music room on the second floor contains copies of letters between Ludwig II and his musical idol. Hohenschwangau. Ludwig II is “the mad king. the extravagant dream king financed Wagner. to 6 p. Michael’s Church) in Munich contains Ludwig’s grave and those of other Wittelsbach royals. the walk to the castle entrance includes a steep. The most famous of his design efforts is the turreted castle of Neuschwanstein. Exploring Neuschwanstein Reaching the castle entrance involves a steep 800m (1⁄2-mile). Born in Munich in 1845. he is “the dream king. Was he murdered or did he commit suicide? No one knows.25). costs 1. to 4 p..m. and blue-eyed.40) for the trip up to the castle . along with the physician who had declared him insane.50€ ($4. self-obsessed monarch has become one of the legendary figures in Bavarian history. 30-minute climb from the parking lot at Hohenschwangau Castle. perched on a crag high above the town of Schwangau.m. named for the wall paintings depicting the saga of Lohengrin (a Germanic hero associated with the swan).m. Alpseestrasse (% 08362/81127). The crypt of the Michaelskirche (St. costs 3. which starts in front of the Schlosshotel Lisl near the parking lot.

Everything from curtains to chair coverings is made of silk embroidered with the gold-and-silver Bavarian coat of arms. from 10 a. Located at Neuschwansteinstrasse 20 (% 08362/81035). a mural depicts the legend of the doomed lovers Tristan and Isolde. with the mountains in the distance. 8€ ($10) for children and students.. Between 1884 and 1886. tours depart every half-hour from 9 a. the site of song contests in the Middle Ages.50€ ($1. you can make your way down to see the enormous kitchens of the castle. Buy tickets from the bus driver or at the carriage.m.m. designed to look like a Romanesque basilica with columns of red porphyry and a mosaic floor. The intricate woodcarving in the king’s bedroom took 41⁄2 years to complete. a mythical medieval knight. The king’s study is decorated with painted scenes from the medieval legend of Tannhäuser.90) for the descent. In September. Ludwig watched the construction of his dream palace through a telescope from neighboring Hohenschwangau. Paintings of Christ looking down on the 12 Apostles and 6 canonized kings of Europe decorate the walls and ceiling. the German form of Art Nouveau. The ornate bed rests on a raised platform with an elaborately carved canopy. to 4 p. another architectural fantasy. Tickets go on sale in early June and always sell out quickly. Three days later he was dead. was never completed.m. free for children ages 6 to 14. after Wartburg castle in Eisenach. The sumptuous ornamentation seen throughout the castle influenced Jugendstil. A 20-minute film about the life of Ludwig II is shown in an auditorium. At Neuschwanstein. stopping only when Ludwig died in 1886.m. Through the balcony window you can see the 46m-high (150-ft.) waterfall in the Pöllat Gorge. the king lived in Neuschwanstein on and off for 170 days. Decorated with marble columns and frescoes depicting the life of Parsifal. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults. The throne room. October through March. Building began in 1869 and continued for some 17 years. . Be aware that the carriages are sometimes crowded. Architects modeled the room. contact the Verkehrsamt (tourist office) in Schwangau (% 08362/81980). After you leave the guided tour. he received news of his dethronement. From April through September. For information and reservations. A stairway of white Carrara marble leads up to the golden apse where the king’s throne was to stand.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 301 entrance and 1. Wagnerian and other classical music concerts take place in the Singer’s Hall. to 6 p. the castle can be visited year-round by guided tour only. the Sängerhalle (Singer’s Hall) takes up almost the entire fourth floor of the castle. Artisans carved wall panels to look like Gothic windows.

and beverages. 25.m.) Getting there If you’re driving along the Romantic Road from Augsburg. herring. and Shrove Tuesday (the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday on the Christian calendar). continue south on B17. Trains from Munich (trip time 21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (trip time 5–51⁄2 hours) arrive frequently throughout the day. Finding information Füssen Tourismus operates two tourist winter hours are Monday to Friday from 9 a. has been owned and operated by the same family for generations. and Saturday from 10 a.m. From Munich.302 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Neuschwanstein is closed November 1. For train information. where the restaurant serves sandwiches. Füssen is an atmospheric place to headquarter while exploring the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau or other places in the Bavarian Alps. this town of 15. If the weather is fine. and 31. take the A8 Autobahn west to Landsberg and then head south on B17. Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road Situated in foothills of the Bavarian Alps. another in the Rathaus (town hall).000 inhabitants has lovely squares and narrow cobblestone streets flanked by medieval stone houses. you encounter no lack of restaurants (or hotels) right around the parking lot near Hohenschwangau. to noon.fuessen. when Füssen was a trading station. January 1. to 6:30 p. to 5 p. bahn. Dining near the castles Neuschwanstein has a pleasant cafe where you can get sandwiches. most have small . Otherwise.m. and Saturday from 10 a. Main courses go for 8€ to 16€ ($10–$20). the medieval town of Füssen marks the official end (or beginning) of the Romantic Road. Ritterstrasse 6. 119km (74 miles) southwest of Munich and just 3km (2 miles) from Neuschwanstein. www. you can eat outdoors on the terrace of Hotel Müller. desserts.m. 87629 Füssen (% 08362/ 91600. soup. to noon.hotel-hechten. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. or larger meals. one at Kaiser-MaximilianPlatz 1.m. Divided by the Lech River. (See the “Füssen” map in this chapter. Its history dates back to Roman times. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/ 93850 for both. This spotless guesthouse with blooming flower boxes exudes an air of old-fashioned Bavarian hospitality. Staying in Füssen Altstadt-Hotel zum The 35 comfortable rooms are small to medium in size. Summer hours are Monday to Friday 8:30 a. December 24.

be rg Tegel- Dr. Kemptener Str.-MaximilianKapelle ellenberg Kap Am F gässchen nbach aule Flos serg asse S t a dtbl iche e Hamburg Berlin uer Strasse wanga S ch e lbachgasse trass Müh S r e l ro Ti 4 Mü hle nw eg Lec h GE R M A NY Frankfurt Munich Füssen ACCOMMODATIONS Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten 2 Feriengasthof Helmer 8 DINING Fischerhütte 1 Zum Schwanen 7 ATTRACTIONS Hohes Schloss 3 Kloster St.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 303 Füssen Information Post Office Railway inkel genstr. Ritterstr. Feriengasthof Helmer.-Mang 5 Lechfall 4 Museum der Stadt Füssen 6 shower-only bathrooms. Rack rates for a double room with buffet breakfast range from 74€ to 84€ ($92–$105). is a traditional Bavarian guesthouse with views of the mountains and nearby castles. m er au er Rathaus 5 6 i Lec n t se d as 7 A Sta italg Sp d ( Dre he r Pfarrg. B m arotrkt F r a n zisk a n erg.-Samer-Str . MasterCard. and Visa are accepted. The hotel is located directly below the castle in Füssen’s Altstadt (Old Town).-SebastianKirche ALTER FRIEDHOF Fra nzi nerpla tz ska B ru nn e Kemptener Str. The rooms all are furnished differently.25 km Str. Schwangau rsse Flo asse g . be Glü c Hin te re k A LT S TA D T hen Reic St. Augustenstra sse Schiess haus gas se sse trass e Mar nh of strass Sud e ete nst nstrass e Rudolf strasse -F Sonne a ass e e ss stra sse uiterJesa g s se Ga sse ngasse s tr ost Ott asse ras s Lu itp old s tr e Hoc re y be rg -St r KaiserMaximilian. 87645 Schwangau (% 08362/9800. www. a small village about 4km (21⁄2 miles) east of Füssen. d- König-Lu dwi g-P hstif rom tstr en asse ad e bur ger stra str. Theresienstras se Bahnhof Bah Aug s iens Kar l- Ege rlan str. most have showers in r gs tras se i llner- Wachsb leiche Church I 0 0.-Wa 1 der An dsaul Bil hhalde 8 To Schloss Neuschwanstein. Mitteldorf 10. BAD FAULENBACH e strass Alatsee St.Sc hulhausstr. Located in Schwangau. Schloss Hohenschwangau. American Express. Rupprechtstrasse Ziegelangerweg Schmid Sch lesie str.25 mi N Zi e l ge Bgm . n Vo ZIEGELBERG 0 0. Platz Se ba s ti a Schran n st nr ass gassne e e g asse i r. some have balconies. 2 3 e kt) riss Mo nmar e och W Mag nu sp l. rstr.hotel-helmer.

Zum Schwanen is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. fresh local trout.m. Hopfen am See (5km/3 miles northwest of Füssen. North Atlantic lobster. Reservations are recommended. MasterCard. The restaurant is open daily from 10 a. reached by a steep lane behind the parish church. roast pork. one of the finest late-Gothic castles in Bavaria.75–$22). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. The powerful prince-bishops of Augsburg used the Hohes Schloss. Zum Schwanen. Immediately below the castle lies the Kloster St. French-style bouillabaisse. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/903-145). turned the church and monastery into a baroque gem with a strong Venetian influence. Dining in Füssen Fischerhütte. at the edge of a small lake within sight of dramatic mountain scenery. to 4 p.). (Nov–Mar 2–4 p.m. Uferstrasse 16. Exploring Füssen Füssen’s main attraction is the Hohes Schloss (High Castle). Brotmarkt 4 (% 08362/6174). American Express.D.m. Specialties include homemade sausage.75) for adults.m.m.-Mang (Monastery of St. founded by Benedictine monks in the eighth century on the site where an Irish missionary monk named St. Rack rates for a double room with breakfast are 78€ to 108€ ($97–$135). A few meat dishes are also available. Magnusplatz (% 08362/903-146). and Visa are accepted. to 5 p.m. Access to the secularized church complex is through the Museum der Stadt Füssen (City Museum).m. and 6:30 to 10 p. . which occupies the former state apartments of the abbey and displays artifacts relating to the history and culture of the region. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a. Stay here if you want old-fashioned atmosphere. where you find a collection of Swabian artwork from the 1400s to the 1700s.304 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the bathrooms. Service is helpful and attentive. lamb. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. Main courses go for 11€ to 25€ ($ 14–$ 31). or grilled halibut. 1–4 p. % 08362/91970). and portions are generous. specializes in seafood from around the world. as a summer residence. Magnus died in 750. (Nov–Mar. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($8.m. serves a flavorful blend of Swabian and Bavarian cuisine.75) for admission. 1000. to 9:30 p. MasterCard is the only credit card accepted.m. Magnus). Johann-Jakob Herkomer. Now the castle is the home of the Staatsgalerie. a local architect. Menu offerings may include Alaskan salmon. children younger than 14 free.m. Admission is 3€ ($3. In the early 18th century. and venison. Diners can enjoy Bavarian specialties during the summer in an outdoor beer garden.) and charges 3€ ($3. to 2 p. Kids enjoy the nearby pool and find plenty of room to play outside. Small and old-fashioned. including a collection of locally produced violins and lutes. The Romanesque crypt in front of the high altar contains frescoes painted around A.

garmisch-partenkirchen.bahn. Garmisch’s main square. (See the “Garmisch-Partenkirchen” map in this chapter. the trip takes about one hour. take the A95 Autobahn and exit at Eschenlohe. The Bayerische Zugspitzbahn at Garmisch (% 08821/7970) provides rail service to the top of the Zugspitze and other local peaks.m. is a popular walk from Füssen. the twin villages of Garmisch and Partenkirchen comprise Germany’s top winter-sports resort. www. From Marienplatz. The . Getting there Trains run frequently from all directions to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. village atmosphere. and streets and lanes (particularly in Partenkirchen) with a quiet. Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoys a stunning location at the foot of the Wetterstein range. to 6 p.m. For information and schedules. Finding information The tourist information office at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2 (% 08821/180700. Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen A free municipal bus runs every 15 minutes between the Bahnhof (train station) and Marienplatz. hiding Germany’s tallest mountain. Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren $ Partenkirchen Located in Partenkirchen. To reach GarmischPartenkirchen by car from Munich. Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze Located about 97km (60 miles) southwest of Munich. a waterfall less than a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) south of town. the fourth Winter Olympics took place here. you still find charming details: the sound of cowbells in the meadows outside town. to noon. the famed Zugspitze. the towns played host to the World Alpine Ski Championships.) In 1936. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. rear up to the south of is open Monday to Saturday from 8 a. located where the Lech River squeezes through a rocky gorge and over a high ledge. The trip time from Munich is about 11⁄2 hours. the quieter side of town. Despite the you can walk to all the centrally located hotels. touristy air of the towns. and Sundays and holidays from 10 a. Two giant peaks. A pedestrian footbridge spans the falls. The office supplies maps and details of area hikes and attractions. the Alpspitze and the Waxensteine. and in 1978.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 305 The Lechfall.m. this family-owned and -operated hotel offers cozy accommodations at moderate prices.

–11:30 p. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. try a soufflé. Fax: 08821/18974. some with a private balcony. See map p. Hotel Hilleprandt $ –$$ Garmisch This chalet. each has a small bathroom with tub or shower. See map The 13 rooms. and 5–10 p. V. Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Alpenhof $ –$$ Garmisch BAVARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Locals regard the Alpenhof as one of the finest restaurants in Garmisch. and dancers provide Bavarian entertainment. Rates: 70€–90€ ($87–$112) double. MC. MC.m. V. and mountain climbing. Reservations recommended. grilled salmon. See map p. The hotel is close to the Zugspitze Bahnhof and the Olympic Ice Stadium.hotel-hilleprandt. The food is hearty and uncomplicated: potato soup with wurst. ham hocks with sauerkraut. a pretty garden. MC. The tiled bathrooms have either showers or tub-shower combinations. The best way to explore this international resort is simply to stroll around the town and its environs. AE. an outdoor terrace. . 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Rates: 78€–112€ ($97–$140) double. AE. Closed 3 weeks in Nov. % 08821/943040. Ludwigstrasse 24. It’s a touristy scene but fun. Open: Daily 11:30 a. 307. Traditional Bavarian and Mediterranean specialties are on the menu. Ludwigstrasse 65. V. % 08821/59055. are small but very comfortable. DC. See map p. Reservations recommended. Rates include buffet breakfast. Open: Daily except Tuesday 11 a. with wooden balconies. pork cutlets.vierjahreszeiten. MC. enjoying the panoramic views of the Alps and the colorful buildings that line the side streets.–2:30 p.m. Rates include buffet breakfast. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Riffelstrasse 17. and duck. and a backdrop of forest-covered mountains. www. summer hiking. For dessert. 307. 307. Am Kurpark 10. V. Fax: 08821/74548. Children younger than 6 stay free in their parents’ room.m. % 08821/9130.m. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). 307. Gasthof Fraundorfer $ –$$ Partenkirchen BAVARIAN Visitors to Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoy this large restaurant because every evening yodelers.m.306 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 25 rooms are comfortable without a lot of frills. % 08821/9270. www. Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a center for winter sports. is an excellent budget choice. and ragout of venison. and so are fresh trout.

spitz r. fstr nho Bah Ol y m Ach tr. Zugspitzbahn inlstr. lst t st S t. KUR. wig L ud 4 n So nb ne r. Like the ice stadium. 2. .2 mi . St . 1. burgHinden s trasse s o p henw e nch g sse stra ne r.En Lo zianen Kurhaus Straussstr. p ia Klam tr. the Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum (Olympic Ice Stadium. mst up str. to noon (also 2–4 p.Kongresshaus . tr. s trasse fs ho hn Ba tr. enf a int Re Ha . On the slopes at the edge of town is the Olympia-Skistadion (Olympic Ski Stadium). One hiking destination. is the Jagdschloss Schachen Kr a ig s dw Lu str.St str. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. The ice rinks are open to the public daily (except from the middle of May through June) from 10 a. M H au p t- P h il o Mü winkelst r.2 km 0. Pr rs t ei n str.m. r n st Höl r. Bahnhof Par tn ch tna Pa r ch a u a ss ra A lps p it z e - ü ll e z-M Frit r eito Dr Garmisch-Partenkirchen str.688m (5. str 5 eld r. with two ski jumps and a slalom course. Rathausplatz str. this ski facility opened in 1936 and remains an integral part of winter life in Garmisch.000 spectators. str. The World Cup Ski Jump takes place here every January 1. om rk Platz a p m Am K u r er s 1 Marien. t s r platz z t spi et W rt Pa isa e s tr.628 ft. - rt Ma Bayerische Str. 6 ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Hilleprandt 2 Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren 5 DINING Alpenhof 1 Gasthof Fraundorfer 4 ATTRACTIONS Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum 3 Olympia-Skistadion 6 Church Information i Post Office Railway 0 0 0.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 307 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Herbst Alte Kirche Bu rgstr. ar tin s str. rst ad Lo Z ug r. Alpine hiking is a major summertime attraction. alst lent r.m.) above Garmisch-Partenkirchen and accessible only by foot (the climb is strenuous).M To Zugspitze Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt Munich Built for the 1936 Winter Olympics. ru g PARK ch Von-B h i c isa Richard.75) for children 6 to 15.. r. on Sat and Sun). People come from around the world to roam the mountain paths (called Hohenwege.S To Jagdschloss Schachen/ Eckbauer/ Partnachklamm Gorge tr.20€ ($2. and watch animals in the forest. enjoy nature. % 08821/753-294) in Garmisch contains three giant skating rinks with stands for 12.Chamonix. gst er te chna ar tin -S Sc ho en str. or “high ways”). Riffe 2 3 Kla mm str.

m. a gift shop. Olympiastrasse 27. The stop is next to an alpine lake and clearly marked. 1 p. A family ticket for two adults and one child costs 100€ ($125). Ascending the Zugspitze For a spectacular view of the Bavarian and the Tyrolean (Austrian) Alps. contact the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn. You can choose between two different ways to reach the Zugspitze from the center of Garmisch. Brauhausstrasse 19. the Gletscherbahn.720 ft. A round-trip ticket enables you to ascend one-way and descend the other for the widest range of spectacular views.m.. The exterior of the lodge resembles a Swiss chalet. given at 11 a. for a four-minute ride uphill to the Zugspitzgipfel (summit). which departs from the back of Garmisch’s main railway station daily every hour from 8:35 a. The round-trip fare is 44€ ($55) for adults. a high plateau with sweeping views. to 4:30 p. The tourist office in GarmischPartenkirchen (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) can supply further details.m. where you find extraordinary panoramas. and 3 p. Bavarian folk music and dancing take place every Saturday night in the Bayernhalle. Germany’s tallest mountain (2. free for children younger than 14. to the Zugspitzplatte. The train travels uphill. Discovering the local nightlife From mid-May through September.m. You need about four hours to get there and back.308 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08821/2996). these concerts move to the Partenkirchen bandstand. (5:30 p. The only way to see the lodge is by guided tour (in German only).m. the cable car carries you to the Zugspitzgipfel. but the king insisted on an elaborately fanciful Moorish-style interior. The Eibsee Sielbahn makes runs every half-hour from 8:30 a. Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/797-900. Check with the local tourist . the Garmisch park bandstand plays host to classical concerts Saturday through Thursday. www. from early June to early October.m. 2 p. 32€ ($39) for youths 16 and 17. in July and Aug).960m/9. a hunting lodge built by Ludwig II. On Friday. disembarking 14km (9 miles) southwest of Garmisch at the lower station of the Eibsee Sielbahn (Eibsee Cable Car). past giant boulders and rushing streams. The entire trip takes about 40 minutes. At the Zugspitzplatte.” in you transfer onto a cable car. and many alpine trails.m. and 27€ ($33) for children ages 6 to 15. ߜ The second way to get to the summit of the Zugspitze is to take the Zugspitzbahn for a shorter trip. From here..m.m. both involving a ride on a cog railway and a cable car: ߜ The first way begins with a trip on the Zugspitzbahn (cog railway). the “dream king.zugspitze.. to 2:35 p.). Total travel time to the top is about 55 minutes. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. For more information. you can go all the way to the summit of the Zugspitze. During the same season. a cafe and restaurant.

Croatia.800m (5.110€ ($6. and parts of Austria. office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) for details about these programs. Know before you buy that even some of the most expensive “handmade” pieces may have been carved by machine prior to being finished off by hand. A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles A scenic drive through the Emmertal. Performances take place in the Passionspiel Theater. The cast for this religious epic numbers in the hundreds. Competition is fierce for sales of local woodcarvings made in hamlets and farmhouses throughout the region. has the most-sophisticated inventory of woodcarvings crafted from maple. animals. If you’re coming by car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. If you’re looking for authentic woodcarvings.000-ft. a valley flanked by 1.) peaks. a crowd from around the world converges on Oberammergau to see the Passionspiele (Passion Play). Hinterglas (behind glass) painting. the following stores are reliable: ߜ Holzschnitzerei Franz Barthels. and linden.388). the next will be in 2010). an art form unique to Bavaria. sells a wide range of carvings. Every ten years. A shuttle bus runs back and forth between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau daily. the composer lived in Garmisch from 1908 until 1949. and in reverse. Most of the carvings are of religious scenes. but you also find drinking or hunting scenes. and folkloric figures. Actors first performed the famous Passion play in Oberammergau in 1634 when the town’s citizens took a vow to give thanks for being spared from the plague. Actors must be natives of or have lived in the town for at least 20 years. take E533 north and turn west onto B23 at Oberau.000. everything from small figures of saints for 54€ ($67) to jumping jacks with movable legs for 36€ ($45). Dorfstrasse 27 (% 08822/821).500m to 1. the next one will be held in 2010.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 309 Oberammergau: Woodcarvers and Passion plays An alpine village located 20km (12 miles) north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. ߜ Tony Baur. Passionswiese 1 (% 08822/92310). takes you to Schloss Linderhof . pine. Locals have performed the 51⁄ 6. 16-act drama depicting Christ’s journey to the Cross every decade since 1680 (the last was in 2000. The twin towns also play host to a Folklore Week in early August and a five-day Richard Strauss Festival in June. Oberammergau has been famous for its woodcarvers and Hinterglas artists since the 15th century. Schnitzlergasse 4 (% 08822/4271). is painting done directly on glass. Prices start around 11€ ($14) and go up to 5.

de).) Getting there If you’re driving from Munich.linderhof.m.310 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08822/92030. mirrors. glittering with gold leaf. When your time arrives. Your ticket has a specific entry time. The original colored-light effects still illuminate the room. The palace and grounds are open April through September daily from 9 a.75) for adults. the most elaborate of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale palaces. but the castle is open daily from 10 a. The parking fee is 2€ ($2. including the Grotte (Grotto).50) for seniors 65 and older and for students.50). Built of artificial rock. King Ludwig II decided to redesign this former royal hunting lodge to resemble the Petit Trianon at Versailles. Linderhof is an extremely popular tourist attraction. 6€ ($7. A guide will meet your group outside the castle. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter.50) for adults. which is a riot of neo-rococo flashiness. For all its ostentation. 5€ ($6. with stalagmites and stalactites dividing the cavelike room into three chambers. You can see the palace only by guided tour. Ludwig kept two swans and a gilded. Linderhof is not without charm. Exploring Schloss Linderhof In 1869. which had artificial waves. to 4 p. thanks in large part to the beauty of its natural setting in the Ammerberge range and its formal French gardens. turning west on B23 about 5km (3 miles) toward Ettal. Winter admission is 6€ ($7. inspired by the famous Blue Grotto at Capri.m.25) for students and seniors. On the lake. and crystal chandeliers. The rustic lodge was transformed into a small. to 6 p. and then drive for 13km (8 miles) on the signposted road. feed your ticket through the electronic turnstile to gain entrance. The ornate exterior is actually restrained when compared with the interior. fanciful buildings. dazzling-white château overloaded with statues and decorations derived from many different periods and countries. swan-shaped boat. in which he was rowed about the lake. A sign at the front of the palace tells you what group is currently being admitted. the Grotto contains an artificial lake fed by an artificial waterfall and a stage hung with a backdrop scene of the first act of Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. October through March. tours in English are available throughout the day. the Grotto and other park buildings close. so arrive early or you may have a long wait. take the Munich–Garmisch Autobahn (A95) south..m. The park contains several small. passing the hamlet of Graswang on the way. www.m. . Linderhof is open year-round and makes a wonderful daytrip from Munich or Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Admission in the summer is 7€ ($8.

Looking south across the lake. you ask: the Bodensee or Lake Constance? Both names are correct.) Atmospheric old towns such as Freiburg share the forest setting with glamorous resorts like BadenBaden. one of the great lakes of Europe. Germany’s largest lake ᮣ Discovering the island city of Lindau ᮣ Exploring the Black Forest ᮣ Bathing in Baden-Baden ᮣ Wandering through the medieval town of Freiburg S outhwestern Germany is an area rich in scenic splendor. In Switzerland and Austria. while towns on the lake bask in an almost Mediterranean balminess. and the legendary Black Forest. In this corner of the country. this 74km-long (46-mile) lake in the foothills of the Alps (elevation 395m/1. The Bodensee is Germany’s largest and Central Europe’s third-largest lake. The widest point is almost 14km (9 miles) across. vineyards slope down to crowded marinas. Vineyards and fruit orchards thrive in the region’s mild. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) What is the proper name.Chapter 17 The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights In This Chapter ᮣ Enjoying the Bodensee. Visitors to the Bodensee enjoy the warm climate and stunning scenery. sunny climate.) is called the Bodensee. In Germany. On the north (German) shore. and charming old towns bask in the golden sun.300 ft. the countries that share its 258km (160 miles) of shoreline. (See “The Bodensee [Lake Constance]” map in this chapter. you find the Bodensee. it’s called Lake Constance. you .

the entire trip takes three hours. follow B310 and B308 west. you can get direct connections to Lindau from Munich. or Old Town. A town of pretty. Check with the tourist office in Lindau or contact Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. Lindau is a popular tourist destination that feels a bit like an Italian resort. to 6 p. www. Finding information and taking a tour The Lindau tourist information office. turning south on B12 (Kemptenstrasse). Konstanz (% 07531/ 3640-398). makes a good place to stay. a lovely island city on the northeastern shore. is open April through October. Saturday . Lindau (% 08382/2754810. occupies a small island in the lake (accessible by a causeway). For information and train schedules. You even find subtropical vegetation growing in sheltered gardens. Ludwigstrasse 68 (% 08382/260030. and Switzerland. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. If you’re driving from Füssen. A road bridge and a causeway for walkers and trains connect the town to the mainland.lindau-tourismus.. Getting to Lindau Lindau is one of the Bodensee’s major transportation hubs. you can travel by boat to towns in Austria and Switzerland and to Konstanz on the western side of the lake. and Zurich. but for the most part the lake is placid.bsb-online. Lindau: Sunny island charmer The historic island-town of Lindau. From Lindau. Basel. Prague. and Hafenstrasse 6. Fierce winds from the mountains occasionally whip up the waters of the Bodensee. www. the newer part of Lindau spreads out to the mainland. After you cross the causeway. Lindau. because you won’t be able to drive into the historic Day and overnight tickets for car parks can be purchased from ticket machines. take the A96 Autobahn and then B31 into Lindau. Several ferries per day link Konstanz with Lindau. Italy. and for hundreds of years the town was a center of trade between Bavaria. snow-capped Alps. and the train station is right in the Altstadt across from the harbor. across from the train station. By train. Lindau is on a major rail line. So many historic buildings line its narrow streets that the entire town is a protected landmark. was founded in the ninth The Altstadt. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. stopping at Meersburg and Mainau.m. Monday through Friday 9 Schützingerweg 2.) A profusion of gardens gives the town a quasi-Mediterranean air. By car from Munich.312 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany see the towering. flower-bedecked squares and a harborside promenade. park in one of the large car parks outside the Altstadt. located 179km (111 miles) southwest of Munich at the northeastern corner of the Bodensee.

REP. BEL .0 5 mi 5 km B34 0 Weingarten Ravensburg Ferry Üb erl ing er Se Überlingen Markdorf B32 B33 e B31 Radolfzell G E R M A N Y To Munich Airport E43 E54 Zelle rsee Mainau Immenstaad B30 B31 Reichenau Untersee Tettnang Eriskirch B467 Gn B33 ade nse e Meersburg Wangen B12 Konstanz Friedrichshafen B32 D EN M AR K MA RK B o Kressbronn B12 Hamburg d Langenargen Deutsche Alpenstrasse Berlin Romanshorn e n Wasserburg Lindau B308 B308 POLAND N E TH . S W I T Z E R L A N D Rorschach Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest R ANCE F RANC E Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Staad Bregenz A U S T R I A The Bodensee (Lake Constance) 313 S WI SW ITZ TZ. LU X. GERMANY s e e BE L. L UX. am Main Frankfurt Arbon CZECH C ZECH RE P. A US TRIA AU S TRI A . NET H. .

Getting around Lindau The charming Altstadt.m. The rooms are up-to-date and furnished in a functional. part of the same management. 88131 Lindau. located right on the harbor promenade. tiled bathrooms have showers (two rooms have tubs and showers). Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten $$ –$$$$ Altstadt One of the nicest places to stay on the Bodensee is the upscale lakeside Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten. to 4 p. is the best affordable choice in Lindau. MC. contact BodenseeSchiffsbetriebe (% 08382/2754810). fitness center. Some open onto a rear balcony. For information on boat trips around the Bodensee. The Reutemann has large rooms and bathrooms with showers and big tubs. call Taxi-Ring-Zentrale (% 0800-60066666) or Lindauer Funk-Taxi (% 08382/4455).m. to noon and 2 to 5 p. www.m. some with lake views. You can join a guided walking tour on Monday (in English) or Tuesday and Friday mornings (in German) at 10 a. so hotels in all price categories are available. The small. The group meets in front of the tourist office. Fax: 08382/ 4133. The Seegarten has flower-filled balconies and spacious rooms. See map p.m. Rates: 86€–92€ ($107–$115) double. 315.hotel-garni-brugger. If you want a taxi. The location is an easy walk from the lake and casino. All three buildings share a lakefront garden with sunbathing areas. AE. % 08382/704-242) provides halfhourly service to all parts of Lindau daily from early morning until 10:40 p. Rates include continental breakfast. modern style with lots of light. Monday through Friday 9 a. Staying in Lindau Lindau is a tourist-oriented resort town. outdoor pool. from April through October. the island part of Lindau. Its harborside kiosk has excursion information and timetables. V. Hotel-Garni Brugger $ Altstadt This welcoming 23-room hotel. Bei der Heidenmauer 11. comfortable.m. % 08382/93410.. The décor is modern in both. The Lindau Stadtbus (city bus. November through March. located at the end of the causeway.m. two connected buildings with 64 rooms between them. More luxurious is the adjacent Hotel Bayerischer Hof. Larger rooms with small sitting areas are in an older building (a glass-roofed conservatory connects the two). the cost is 4€ ($5). DC. and sauna. is flat and easily walkable.314 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Sunday 9:30 .

iespl P arad Z e pp e l in fpl at Hamburg Berlin 19 Se e ha f e n Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest ATTRACTIONS Altes Rathaus 10 Diebsturm 7 Löwenmole 19 Mangturm 17 Maria Himmelfahrt 14 Neuer Leuchtturm 20 Peterskirche 8 Römerschanze 18 Spielbank 6 Stadtmuseum 12 Stadtpark 4 St.1 mi 1 mm K l e i n e r S e eb rü ck e 2 Se e 0 0. Kron ngasse e . Stephan 13 Strandbad Eichwald 3 Strandbad Lindenhofbad 1 20 Information i G ER M ANY Frankfurt B o d e n s e e Lighthouse Post office Railway Munich Lindau Lindau 315 .1 km Eisen ba ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Bayerischer Hof 15 Hotel-Garni Brugger 5 Hotel Reutemann/ Hotel Seegarten 16 hnda 3 Ch e Rollschuhplatz Heidenm lle s-A lle e Rotkreuz Platz 4 DINING Hoyerberg Schlössle 2 RestaurantWeinstube Frey 9 Zum Sünfzen 11 8 rgeebe e Schn gass Au GROLL f W de ANLAGEN all m OSCAR- 6 Thiersch strasse gstr asse au asse er 5 zigerstr Zwan Auf der Mauer Alter Schulsse Schmiedga platz 13 r Grub e d n I er Kirchplatz msse MarktCra ga 12 platz 14 A L T S T A D T Stiftsplatz Strasse 11 Bindergasse sse stra g. erg rb Fä Sch ütz Lu Hauptbahnhof z S ro eep n ho eg i 15 me dw ig ing erw s tr se as Brettermark Rüberplatz t 16 na de 17 18 Bu rgga sse Dreierstrasse ertu en Hintere Insel Ludwigstra sse rmw Ba h eg Reichsplatz Ling teg msse Dam gas Pulverturm - Uferweg nilia 9 xim Ma 10 Fi s c her- Barfüsserplatz ga s s e 7 Schrannenplatz . mm Kru elg Ins Pulv rab Da mm g.0 0.

V. % 08382/9150. Reservations recommended. or spinach Spätzle (a potato-based pasta) baked with cheese and ham. % 08382/5278.m. You can dine inside or out. Rates: Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten 116€–210€ ($145–$262) double. V. V. Maximilianstrasse 15. and 5–11:30 p.m. with a view of the mountains and lake. Maximilianstrasse 1. cafe Tues–Sat 2–4:30 p. DC. MC. has few rivals on the Bodensee. and baby-sitting can be arranged. Fax: 08382/915591. . See map p. (From the causeway. Fresh fish from the Bodensee is a specialty.–2:30 p. The first-floor cafe is more informal.m. Open: Restaurant Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. Dishes range from schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). AE.m.m. Open: Daily 10:30 a. at Lindau-Aeschach. Zum Sünfzen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/BAVARIAN This old restaurant at the east end of Maximilianstrasse serves good. to pepper steaks. and saddle of venison with flour dumplings and French beans. See map p. The breakfast buffet is an additional 16€ ($20). Hotel Bayerischer Hof 152€–291€ ($190–$364). Reservations required in the restaurant. 88131 Lindau. and 6–10 p. 315. 315. beef stroganoff.m. DC. take Langenweg and Friedrichshafener Strasse northwest to Hoyerbergstrasse. Closed Jan 15–Feb 28. Meals here are a memorable experience. Main dishes: 10€–20€ ($13–$25).bayerischerhof-lindau.. Fixed-price menus: 62€–79€ ($77–$98). Frey’s has outdoor tables on the pedestrian street and a small second-floor restaurant with a beamed ceiling and pleasantly old-fashioned ambience. No credit cards. located on the mainland about a 15-minute drive from the–11 p. and roast pork with homemade Spätzle to filet of venison. MC. Open: Daily 11 a. Dining in Lindau Hoyerberg Schlössle $$$$ Mainland CONTINENTAL The Hoyerberg Schlössle. MC. Hoyerbergstrasse 64. % 08382/5865. local perch stuffed with herbs. www. trout baked in a potato crust. You can drive to these hotels and park in the underground garage. AE. AE.m. 315. dependable food at reasonable prices. See map p. Main courses: 22€–35€ ($27–$44). Restaurant-Weinstube Frey $ Altstadt GERMAN The oldest Stubl (drinking and dining room) on Maximilianstrasse. not required in the cafe. 315.) % 08382/25295. See map p. Seepromenade.316 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Children younger than 10 stay free. You may want to sample the local Meersburger wines as you dine on chicken breast with raspberry sauce. DC. Menu offerings vary seasonally but may typically include cream of scampi soup.m. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20).

18th-century baroque town house called the Haus zum Cavazzen. flower-bedecked fountain in the center. and historical toys.25) for a panoramic vista of the Swiss and Austrian Alps across the water. and sculptures. Rising from the promenade at the edge of the harbor is the 13th-century tower called the Mangturm. Peter’s Church. orchestral instruments. the name derives from the laundry. to 5 p. A rectangular building with a flat wooden ceiling and a tall.m. paintings. this round tower with projecting upper turrets and oriel windows once served as the town jail (hence its name). erected in 1422 and notable for its grandly painted facade of a princely procession. Located just north of Maximilianstrasse. On the east side of Marktplatz stand side-by-side Lutheran and Catholic churches. and Sunday from 11 a. once used as a council hall. thousands of lights create a magical atmosphere around the harbor. Continuing east on Maximilianstrasse and Cramergasse brings you to the Marktplatz (Market Square) with a pretty. a pillar with a sculpted lion (the symbol of Bavaria) looking out over the lake. The interior. Lindau’s main pedestrian-only thoroughfare.m.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 317 Exploring Lindau Lindau is best enjoyed by simply taking a couple of hours to stroll around the Altstadt. The interior walls have late-15th-century frescoes by Hans Holbein the Elder. In a stately. St. Stephan. The building’s stepped gables are typical of the 15th-century Gothic style. At night. The museum is open April through September Tuesday to Friday from 11 a.m. tin and ceramic objects. open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.75€/$2. In 1928. Return to Maximilianstrasse and follow the street eastward to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). glassware. has . the church was built around A. A special attraction is the collection of mechanical musical instruments. or “mangle house.– 5 p. Admission is 2€ ($2. square tower. admission 1.m. but in the 16th century the building received a Renaissance face-lift.).. houses the centuries-old town library (not open to the general public). the town’s famous harbor.) Located almost directly across from the main train station.m. 1000. The tower is not open to the public. is the city’s most famous landmark.50). Built around 1370 at the most westerly point of the old town wall. Successive eras saw the additions of other architectural styles. including barrel organs. % 08382/ 944-073). the Peterskirche (St.. Flanking the harbor entrance is the 19th-century Neuer Leuchtturm (lighthouse) and the Löwenmole.” that once stood beside the tower.D.m.. You can climb up the narrow spiral staircase of the lighthouse (open daily 9:30 a. the Lutheran church on the left.m. Saturday from 2 to 5 p. Standing beside the Diebsturm on Schrannenplatz is Lindau’s oldest building. The museum contains a large collection of furniture (ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau). (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. to 5 p. and mechanical pianos. you find the Stadtmuseum (Town Museum. silverware. is the most attractive on the whole of the Bodensee. completed in 1856.m. the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower). the church became a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of World War I.

on the mainland. you may want to stop at Mainau on your way to or from Freiburg in the Black Forest (see “Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books. The churches generally are open from 8 a. the Catholic church on the right.m. a smaller beach popular with families. you come to the waterside Stadtpark (City Park) with its modern Spielbank (casino). 2€ ($2.m. in the train station. is full of baroque decoration and has a frescoed ceiling.m.m. on the mainland. Three lakeside beaches (a beach is a Strandbad. with a grassy lakeside area and three heated swimming pools. The location is about a halfhour walk east along Uferweg. is located next to Lindau harbor in the Altstadt. Fahrrad-Station-Lindau (% 08382/21261). The third beach. you can play slot machines from noon to 2 a. The bike-rental office. or take bus no. Strandbad Lindenhofbad (% 08283/6637). pronounced farahd) and go cycling along the shores of the Bodensee.50) for children. and from 2 to 6 p..m. to 7:30 p. something dressy. to 2 a.m. To reach it. Enjoying lakeside activities For as little as 10€ ($13) you can rent a bike (Fahrrad. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. 4 to Alwind.50) for children. and women. take bus no.m.50€ ($2) for children. makes for a pleasant daytrip from Lindau. is located in Lindenhof Park on the mainland.) If you’re driving through this part of southern Germany.m. and a passport is required as proof of age. to 8 p. Appropriate attire is a cut above casual: Men should wear a jacket and tie. to 5 p.m. Römerschanze (% 08283/6830). and Saturday from 9:30 a. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. Admission to the beach is 3€ ($3.50€ ($3) for adults and 1. then bus no.75) for adults.m. 3 to Karmelbuckel. . 2 to Anheggerstrasse. 2€ ($2.m. Chelles Allee 1 (% 08382/27740). Taking a turn at the tables At Lindau’s glitzy Spielbank (shpeel-bank. 1 or no. The biggest beach is Strandbad Eichwald (% 08283/5539). famed for its subtropical gardens. Maria Himmelfahrt (Church of the Ascension).m.50€ ($3. to 7 p.” later in this chapter). Admission is 2.25). west of the causeway. is the most scenic area for biking. Admission is 2. Lindenhofpark. pronounced strahndbod) are open in summer Monday through Friday from 10:30 a. this beach charges 2.50€ ($3) for adults. Continuing east from Marktplatz on Schmiedgasse. to 1 p. Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau The island of Mainau.m. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. casino). and blackjack and roulette from 3 p.318 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany a barrel-vaulted ceiling and a fairly bare interior.m.

. Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden purchased the island as a summer residence. chanterelle mushrooms in late summer. The island’s gardens are open daily year-round.m.m. The island has a Mediterranean luxuriance that invites leisurely strolling. 11€ ($14) for seniors older than 65. and holidays. not all of them stop at Mainau. you can park and leave your car in Meersburg. he laid the foundations for the Arboretum. Schützingerweg 2.) . where palms and orange trees grow and fragrant flowers bloom year-round. 3. from 8:30 a. Sundays. open 11 a. and Konstanz. gardens that his great-grandchild. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. hours are 7 a. on the lake’s north shore. costs 31€ ($39). citrus and fruit trees. In 1853. to dusk.90€ ($5) for children. the Palm House.–6 p.) and the Castle Café (open 11 a.2km (21⁄2-mile) crossing (one per hour through the night) to Konstanz. A one-way fare from Lindau to Mainau is 11€ ($14). This is the best (and only) way to see Mainau.m. From March 24 through October 24. and catch a car-ferry to Mainau.).–10 p.m. two ferries per hour make the 4. rhododendrons. From April through mid-October. www. orchids. and an exhibition on Lake Constance in the the largest city on the Bodensee.m. which includes admission at Mainau. Casual dining options include the Butterfly Bistro (open 10 a. which features seasonal specialties such as asparagus in the spring. and the Orangery. Mainau.m. tens of thousands of tulips in the spring. Count Lennart Bernadotte. Admission includes the gardens. the Rose Garden. and roses in the summer fill the gardens. so check before boarding.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 319 Getting to Mainau Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. 31€ ($25) for family (parents and children up to 15). If you’re driving.m.. and game dishes in the fall. winter hours are 9 a. hop on the ferry. a roundtrip Kombiticket.m. Contact Autofähre Konstanz-Meersburg (% 07531/803666) for information and schedules. the Butterfly House. Service is less frequent on Saturdays. Butterflies from throughout the world flit and flutter through the Butterfly House. Visiting the island of Mainau The semitropical island of Mainau. provides daily passenger service by boat between Lindau.m. the current owner of this 110-acre botanical wonderland. azaleas. You can also drive west from Lindau to Meersburg. lies 6km (4 miles) north of Konstanz. and easily walk through Mainau. would later develop. The island’s culinary high point is the Schwedenschenke (% 07531/303-156.bsb-online. to 11 p. Admission is 12€ ($15) for adults.m.m. The baroque castle that forms the centerpiece of the island once was a residence of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. A passionate plant lover. to 8 p. because cars are restricted on the island.–8 p. several places on the island are open daily for dining or a quick snack. Generally. in an arm of the Bodensee known as the Überlingersee. Palms.

the two towns I recommend as overnights. Give yourself at least two hours to explore and enjoy the island. runs parallel to the Rhine. From cake to sausage: Black Forest treats Maybe you’ve heard of that famous thick. fairy tales. the name given to the forest by Romans some 2. and cuckoo clocks. Most restaurants make their own Hauswurst (sausage) and guard the recipe. long associated with legends. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. Schwarzwald Schinken (Black Forest smoked ham). Visitors with limited time generally skip the area’s cure and sports aspects and focus instead on the scenic pleasures of the Schwarzwald. call % 07531/3030 or visit www. Having a car opens up more of the countryside. Villages with half-timbered buildings. meat and fowl dishes with creamy by train. If you want to sample other regional specialties. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) adjoins the forest to the east.) For the Germans themselves. a spa resort with thermal waters and an elegant casino. The famous cake is one of the specialties of a region that’s something of a culinary crossroads. amid nature. and pretty spots where stressedout city dwellers take die Kur (the cure) at health resorts fill the pineand spruce-filled forest. come to two cities in particular: Baden-Baden. about 145km (90 miles) long and 40km (25 miles) wide. however. chocolatey cake flavored with cherry preserves and called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cherry Cake). One of the most popular auto trips is from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt on the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse (Black Forest High Road. B500). and the medieval university town of Freiburg.mainau. The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Travelers to the Schwarzwald (schvahrtz-vald). the mountainous. and wild game such as venison and boar. The forest’s proximity to France and Switzerland has influenced the cooking you find in many Black Forest restaurants.320 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For more information. The Black Forest. look for Zwetchgentorte (plum pastry). Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart). The name “Black Forest” is a translation of the Latin Silva Nigra. legend-filled forest is a favorite place to spend holidays outdoors. or Black Forest. which runs almost the entire length of the forest. hiking trails. which serves as a boundary with Switzerland to the south and France to the west. You can explore the Black Forest in many ways. You can easily reach Baden-Baden and Freiburg. which dominates the southwestern corner of Germany. Why did they call it that? Because from a distance the dark green pine and fir trees look black. .000 years ago.

Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 321 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Durmersheim 0 10 mi Haguenau M er Brumath Weyersheim 36 A4 Canal de la Marne au Rhin Willgottheim Marlenheim Rheinau 500 Rh ine Pfaffenhoffen N 0 10 km Bouxwiller Mountain Malsch To Pforzheim Kuppenheim Gaggenau BadenBaden 462 294 Strasbourg Molsheim A840 A35 3 od To Calw A5 Bühl Achern Raumündzach Oberkirch 28 Barr Neuried 36 Offenburg FRANCE in 83 Freudenstadt Rhine Rh Gengenbach Ettenheim 3 500 462 du Selestat Rh ône I ll au Alpirsbach Zell am Harmersbach Wolfach Waldmössingen nal 468 Ca Elsenheim Muntzenheim Herbolzheim Kenzingen 294 33 Hornberg 462 Dunningen Zimmern Triberg A5 Waldkirch Kandel Triberger Wasserfälle Furtwangen A81 Freiburg im Breisgau Hirtzfelden Bad Krozingen Staufen Badenweiler 3 St. Märgen 500 A864 31 Donaueschingen Titisee Hüfingen Löffingen Schauinsland Hinterzarten Feldberg Bernau Lenzkirch Blumberg Bonndorf 314 Belchen Todtnau 317 Schluchsee 500 Häusern Kandern A5 Zell im Wiesental Hornberg A98 Hamburg Berlin A35 WaldshutTiengen E GERMANY Frankfurt am Main C Lörrach Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Rh Pratteln SWITZERLAND FR Basel Döttingen in e AN . Peter Schwenningen St.

connecting Baden-Baden to Munich. Finding information The tourist information office in the Trinkhalle. from Frankfurt. Located 174km (108 miles) south of Frankfurt in the northern portion of the Black Forest. play tennis. The drive south from Frankfurt takes about two hours.) Getting to Baden-Baden You can easily reach Baden-Baden by train from anywhere in Germany. on Schwarzwaldstrasse 52 (the B500 road into town. The Bahnhof (railway station) is at Baden-Oos.–6 p. and Dostoevsky — also helped to make Baden-Baden the most elegant and sophisticated playground in Both offices offer a free hotelbooking service.m. Even the Roman emperor Caracalla traveled to this part of the Black Forest to get some relief from his arthritis. you may find Baden-Baden a bit boring-boring. who come to hike. To get into the center of town. Kaiser Allee 3 (% 07221/ 275-200. about 5km (3 miles) north of town. Baden-Baden attracts many sports and outdoor enthusiasts. The composition of the slightly radioactive mineral water is almost the same today as when the Romans built the first bath complexes here in the third century. and Napoleon III gave the town a glamorous new aristocratic cachet. takes place in August. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. you take bus no. For those with a car. and people still flock here to soak and be healed of various ailments and to try their luck in the famous casino. and ride horses.. In the 19th century.m. European nobility and clients such as Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm I rediscovered Baden-Baden’s waters. to 5 p.baden-baden. Sun 9 a. the A5 Autobahn between Basel and Frankfurt runs north–south through the entire region. The thermal springs bubbling up from beneath the town have been healing aches and pains for more than 2. from Munich. If you’re driving into town. 201 or a taxi. Brahms. It has a complete schedule of events and information on town and regional attractions.m. same phone. The town has the most up-to-date spa facilities in Germany. and Sunday 2 to 5 p. www.000 years. about four hours. always available in front of the station.–1 p. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter.m. The personalities of the day — artists like Berlioz.322 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town Baden-Baden is one of the world’s most famous spa resorts. open Mon–Sat 9 a. and the A8 Autobahn runs east–west. .m). you can easily access a second tourist office outside the center. one of the summer sporting events in Europe. The horseracing season at nearby Iffezheim. Trip time from Munich is about four hours.m. Baden-Baden still evokes that aura of 19th-century privilege. For train information. about three hours. golf. If you’re not into a health regimen or interested in gambling. is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.

str n i rS e Ste h ac Str 4 rnsb a sse tra Ge e Jesuitensse rass nst platz hie p o S 7 .2 mi 0.D ür e ras sse se t -S . . ass tr. lstr LeopoldsInse platz ßs ch str 5 Marktplatz 2 Sc h l o Sol W er d er s tr a sse We rd ras erst se 10 Goetheplatz zs t r. t r. 6 m sstrass e i 3 e . strasse 12 ichstras se Sephanie- Lichtentaler Allee ss e Oosbach Kais er- W il h elm - e LudwigWilhelmPlatz 14 1515 St ra r Fried lerst rass Schil 16 Gausplatz Bertholdstrasse Bertholdplatz e Frem r rgst rsbe asse Hamburg Berlin nel i Information 0. r A .2 km Mi cha elstu n Lic ta en ht 0 0 GER M AN Y Frankfurt rA ll e e BadenBaden ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel am Markt 5 Der Kleine Prinz 15 Hotel Belle Epoque 16 DINING Der Kleine Prinz 15 Münchner Löwenbräu 4 Park-Restaurant 14 Peter’s Gute Backstube 7 Stahlbad 13 ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss 1 Caracalla-Therme 2 Friedrichsbad 3 Kunsthalle 11 Kurgarten 8 Kurhaus 10 Lichtentaler Allee 12 Spielbank 9 Trinkhalle 6 Ha Munich rd äc ke rs Mic haelstunnel e Lang Vin cen tist rass e ns is e Lu lee ral ise Ka e Sch iben sse stra V in c rasse tist en 9 8 R e t tigstras se Kr e u asse Merkurstr sse stra Eich 13 Hardstra s s e Lic 11 sse tra hte nta ler Str ass e Ludwig-Wilh e l m- S t ra sse le . Hir s Schloßs e trass r lmstr Wilhe .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 323 1 Baden-Baden Sch ütze Sc ger sb os el hl nn Tu Festspielhaus La ng asse nstr We tz eS Leop oldst r tra asse t els Ka p rs t ra ine uz zin Gö tt ss e Ka pu eng . Hindenburgplatz e rs tr.

74€–80€ ($92–$100) double with bathroom. and 7–10 p. Although there is nothing grand or glamorous about it. and finish with fresh strawberries and homemade ice cream.50). move on to duck-liver parfait with salad.m. A one-way fare is 2€ ($2. V. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. affordable. this 27-room hotel epitomizes the kind of small.324 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting around Baden-Baden After you arrive in Baden-Baden. Rates: 58€–62€ ($72–$77) double with toilet only. You can begin with assorted appetizers. See map p. Main courses: 17€–29€ ($21–$36). and the location on Marktplatz is quiet and convenient. and well-prepared food in two settings: on a romantic terrace beneath linden trees or in an indoor dining room with curved glass walls. DC. you can walk everywhere. Marktplatz 18. and menu offerings change daily. % 07221/27-04-0. and inexpensive. See map p. Lichtentaler Strasse 36. Everything is homemade from the best and freshest local ingredients. www. modest. Tasting menus: 57€–75€ ($71–$94).m. AE.hotel-am-markt-baden. MC. and a meal in the intimate dining room served by the highly polished but friendly staff is a memorable experience. Hotel am Markt $ Clean. family-run hostelry you can still find all over Germany. connects the railway station to most of the sites in town. Bus: 201. Many kinds of German sausage are on the menu with Bavarian specialties and a wide selection of cheeses. Dining in Baden-Baden Der Kleine Prinz $$$ FRENCH/REGIONAL The restaurant in the hotel Der Kleine Prinz (“The Little Prince”) is one of the finest in the entire region. Regional . purchase tickets from the driver or from ticket machines at bus stops. Try one of the tasting menus. 76530 Baden-Baden. MC. followed by a fish soup with dumplings. Bus: 201. there’s a little cafe in front. AE. Rates include continental breakfast. 323 In the hotel Der Kleine Prinz. 323. which runs at ten-minute intervals. Fax: 07221/ 27-04-44. Bus no. % 07221/3464. 201. go on to stuffed rabbit with mushrooms and homemade noodles. Münchner Löwenbräu $ –$$ GERMAN/BAVARIAN This restaurant serves simple. the rooms are comfortable (not all have private bathrooms). Staying in Baden-Baden See also Chapter 22 for descriptions of the outstanding Der Kleine Prinz ($$$–$$$$) and Hotel Belle Epoque ($$$–$$$$).

copper vessels.m. See map p. to midnight. See map p. evoke an earlier era.m. Reservations required. Open: Daily 7–9:30 p. Sat 6:30 a. Open: Tues–Sun noon to 2 p... Bus: 201. The restaurant also has a popular beer garden. Main courses: 32€–42€ ($40–$52). For dessert. quickly served food. and lobster salad.m. Baden-Baden isn’t a demanding town. Bus: 201.) The pace is relaxed. Duck in here for a breakfast of eggs and ham. No credit cards. Peter’s Gute Backstube $ PIZZA/LIGHT MEALS Restaurants in Baden-Baden tend to be pricey. See map p. Sophienstrasse 10–12. % 07221/9000. sandwiches: 3€ ($3.m. try the apple fritters. along with seafood and regional Rhine Valley foods. Open: Mon–Fri 6:30 a. fresh fish. V. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter. a slice of pizza. See map p.75). including prints. % 07221/22311. Specialties include sautéed gooseliver. so it’s good to know about this inexpensive cafe on busy Leopoldsplatz. and grilled lobster and fish. MC. . Bus: 201. warm gooseliver with Calvados sauce. the coffee (all you can drink for 2€/$ 2. Sun 8 a.m. AE.m. For dessert. V.–7 p. Main courses: 6. MC.m. and engravings.50€–18€ ($8–$22). Stahlbad $$$ –$$$$ CONTINENTAL/ALSATIAN In the center of town. I also recommend stopping for a slice of afternoon Kuchen (cake). high-priced restaurant in the glamorous Brenner’s Park Hotel is one of the renowned hotel dining rooms of Europe and received a Michelin star in 2006. Gernsbacher Strasse 9 (in the Altstadt). 323. with major museums and important historic sights that you must see. The emphasis is on French dishes. Main courses: Breakfast 5€–7€ ($6. Open: Daily 10 a.50) is very good. this restaurant with a garden terrace is a tranquil and charming place to dine. Schillerstrasse 4. mugs. 323. AE. DC.25–$8.m. The atmosphere and décor. DC. although the atmosphere is like a fast-food restaurant. or a lunchtime sandwich. 323. antique pewter plates. Main courses: 15€–30€ ($19–$37). V. % 07221/24569. AE. Reservations required.m. Specialties include pepper steak and seasonal game dishes.–6 p.–7 p. DC. and 6–10 p.m. 323. % 07221/392-817. roast saddle of venison or lamb. In Brenner’s Park Hotel.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 325 devotees order pork knuckles fresh from the grill. Augustaplatz 2. Bus: 201. Park-Restaurant $$$$ INTERNATIONAL/RHINELAND This fancy. Exploring Baden-Baden When it comes to tourist destinations. try the lemon-grass mousse.75). Pete’s can’t be beat for cheap.

Minimum bets are 5€ ($6. Lichtentaler Allee.” a place for more formal gatherings and is a sightseeing train that makes stops at all of Baden-Baden’s major attractions. you must possess a valid passport and be at least 21 years old. in the vaulted cellars of the Kurhaus in attractive new rooms.” You can see for yourself by visiting the famous BadenBaden Spielbank (casino). making stops at the Kurhaus.10) for children 5 to 15. The site has remained the hub of Baden-Baden’s social scene ever since. I recommend that you visit one of the bath complexes (see “Bathing in Baden-Baden” later in this chapter) and then spend a couple of hours wandering through the Altstadt.25) for adults and 2. classy evening wear. poker. English commentary is available on a headset. The train runs daily from 9:30 a. In the 1820s.citybahn. roses. and gas lights lit and extinguished by hand every day. blackjack. between 9:30 a.” where the rich and prominent came to see and be seen. every 30 minutes. informal. Arrange in advance for tours in English. blackjack. as you may think.m. Maximum bets are 10. www. At the north end of the promenade are the formally landscaped grounds of the Kurgarten and the neoclassical Kurhaus. women. once remarked. the building was a “Promenade House. Germany’s oldest casino. the right wing of the building is Baden-Baden’s casino (see the next paragraph). The City-Bahn (% 07221/991-998. and other games. lavish restaurant with a terrace overlooking the gardens with their shop-lined colonnades.500). slotmachine-haven you find in Las Vegas. Kaiserallee 1 (% 07221/21060). to noon). The various casino rooms were designed in the style of an elegant French château.50€ ($3. The tour costs 4€ ($5).25). to 2 a. the Kurhaus was turned into a “Conversation House. an elegant park promenade lined with rhododendrons. (until 3 a. The Kurhaus does not. . Marlene Dietrich.m. To enter the casino. and noon (Oct–Mar 10 a. in operation for more than 200 years. azaleas.m. The time-honored center of activity is Lichtentaler Allee.75). and other spots. pronounced ohs). the glamorous German film star. “The most beautiful casino in the whole world is in Baden-Baden — and I have seen them all. poker.. and ornamental trees set along the bank of the narrow Oosbach River (called the Oos.m. and bingo machines.m. Men must wear jackets and ties. Originally. which also contain roulette. Fri–Sat).000€ ($12. You find slot machines. The casino is open for gambling daily from 2 p. to about 5 p. the Caracalla Baths. (The Russian writer Dostoevsky wrote The Gambler based on his disastrous experience at the tables here. concert shell. Tickets cost 5€ ($6. you can take a guided tour of the historic gaming rooms daily. Guests can play French and American roulette. and the left wing houses a large.326 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and the streets are geared toward pleasurable strolls and upscale shopping. a very recent addition. one of the town’s most important buildings. baccarat.) This casino is definitely not the kind of glitzy. contain spa facilities.m. used for receptions and galas. Admission is 3€ ($3.m. If you don’t want to gamble.

m. two saunas. where guests once sipped the salty. At the CaracallaTherme (Caracalla Baths). involves a shower. rich in sodium chloride. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-940).” Admission is 21€ ($26) for three hours without massage. Kaiserallee 3 (% 07221/275-200). completed in 1909.m.). “Here at Baden-Baden’s Friedrichsbad you lose track of time in 10 minutes and track of the world in 20.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 327 In the Kurhaus gardens. now is used as the main tourist office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Baden-Baden). You must wear bathing suits in the pools. The baths are open daily from 8 a. Bathing in Baden-Baden Getting into hot water is what Baden-Baden is all about. late works by Picasso) bequeathed by Baden-Baden collector Frieder Burda. you’d better understand what Mark Twain meant when he said. but the scene is au naturel in the saunas. showcases visiting contemporary art exhibits. followed by a 30-minute period of rest and relaxation. The baths also have a sauna area. 29€ ($36) with soap-brush massage (31⁄2 hours). and whirlpools. You get a nice view of the town and the Black Forest from this fortresslike structure. The Staatliche Kunsthalle (State Art Gallery). thermal steam baths. a brush massage. Admission is 12€ ($15) for two hours. From the 11th to the 15th centuries. After experiencing the Friedrichsbad. is located on a hillside above town.m. The Altes Schloss (Old Palace).m. Hochbaden was the seat of the margraves of Baden. you also find the Trinkhalle (Pump Room). Lichtentaler Allee 8a (% 07221/300-763). The complete bath program. slightly radioactive waters of Baden-Baden.25) for adults and 4€ ($5) for students. (Wed until 8 p. a ruined castle originally called Hochbaden (High Baden).m. bubbles up from artesian wells at a temperature of about 160°F (70°C). which takes about three hours. you decide on your own bath regimen. to 10 p. a new building designed by Richard Meier and opened in 2005. The slightly radioactive water. a large hall built in the 1840s. Museum Frieder Burda. and women and men share the pools. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-920).m. Friedrichsbad. and three freshwater baths ranging from warm to 60°F (15°C). Medicinal treatment includes mud baths. .m. The facility has a bar and a cafeteria. to 10 p. American abstract expressionists. massages. The building. Note: Clothes may not be worn in the Friedrichsbad. (last admission is two hours before closing). working up to the warm water. Admission is 5€ ($6. Admission is free. dates back to 1877 and follows an ancient Roman-Irish bath method. sits adjacent to the Kunsthalle and houses an impressive collection of modern paintings and sculptures (German expressionists. to 6 p. The two buildings are open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a. The baths are open daily from 9 a. Bathers usually begin in cooler pools. surrounded by an open walkway and decorated with frescoes depicting Black Forest legends.

Sophienstrasse 26 (% 07221/23955). lined with some of the most expensive boutiques in Germany. Lichtentaler Strasse 21 (% 07221/24495). The women’s wear available at Escada Boutique. are part of a flower-flanked pedestrian zone. schnapps..festspielhaus.000 residents (and an additional 30. focusing on designers Giorgio Armani and Renee Lazard. but a cool mountain breeze called the Höllentaler flows down into the town like clockwork twice every night between 7 and 7:30 and 9 and 9:30 p. cosmetics. and cottons during warmer months. The best men’s store. linens. fast-flowing streams called Bächle (little brooks) that run alongside the streets in stone-lined channels are ancient cooling systems. In the summer. Münchner Moden. opened in 1998. wallets. cooling things down. Schwarzwald Bienen-Honig-Haus.000 students). and ballets throughout the year. candies. Herrenkommode. and offers Austrian and Bavarian silks. carries beeswax. operas. where the inventory includes luggage.328 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Baden-Baden Sophienstrasse and Gernsbacher Strasse. Discovering the performing arts in Baden-Baden Baden-Baden’s 2. now part of the German state of Baden-Württemberg but once part of the Roman Empire. puppets. is a bit more international. Only 111km (69 miles) southwest of Baden-Baden. is a historical region stretching from the Rhine to the Black Forest. Freiburg bursts with .de). carries women’s designs in loden-colored wool during autumn and winter. Langestrasse 38 (% 07221/31453). and other locally produced items can be found at Boulevard. Freiburg is the largest city in the Schwarzwald and considered to be its capital.m. Freiburg enjoys the benefits of warm air currents that come up from the Mediterranean through Burgundy. www. Leather goods by Gold Pfiel and other manufacturers are sold at Inka. and wine. Breisgau. The building is the second-largest opera and concert hall in Europe.and honey-based products such as candles. the days can get very hot. is created by one of Germany’s most emulated designers. Sophienstrasse 18 (% 07221/390-448). plus many varieties of bottled honey. The hall presents classical music concerts. Beim Alten Bahnhof 2 (% 07221/301-3101. This is where you buy those elegant duds required to enter the casino.500-seat Festspielhaus (Festival Hall). Cuckoo clocks. this picturesque city with its medieval Altstadt nestles in a plain below high mountain peaks. Another shop. Lichtentalerstrasse 13 (% 07221/31090). Sophienstrasse 16 (% 07221/29292). Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books With a population of about 200. and handbags. The Altstadt’s splashing fountains and shallow. The town is called Freiburg im (in) Breisgau to distinguish it from other German and Swiss Freiburgs. Although surrounded by alpine scenery.

Joseph- rasse ras se Less ings tras se Kr on en str se as Erbprinzenstr. Hab stras sburgerse alle Fried richs Rheinstr e asse 0 0 0. In Freiburg. And winegrowing always requires celebrations. and in autumn. Werderring Ma r i e n . 7 11 platz 9 9 K SCHLOSSBERG Schwabentor In se 10 Augustinerweg Kartäuserstrasse Kaiser- Luisenst t r a ss Dreisams e Leo-Woh Strasse lebInformation Post office Railway Schillerstrasse ACCOMMODATIONS Rappen 3 Zum Roten Bären 9 DINING Oberkirchs Weinstuben 2 Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede 10 Zum Roten Bären 9 ATTRACTIONS Augustinermuseum 8 Erzbischöflisches Palais 5 Historisches Kaufhaus 6 Münster 4 Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Wentzingerhaus) 7 Neues Rathaus 1 Schlossberg 11 Hamburg Berlin GE R M AN Y Frankfurt Munich Freiburg springtime blooms while snow still covers the surrounding peaks. 8 Augustiner- S ch los sb erg rin g strasse Platz der Alten Ber Synagoge toldstrasse str.1 km 0. Sc hu 2 3 Münsterplatz 4 6 Moltke ste 5 rs t r. on the last weekend in June.s tr . sse tra ns e t r Ga Schreibe rstrasse Dr eis am Wallstrasse neggrin eiffe g Gr torring Schwaben Fa ule rst t st r a ss ALLEEe GARTEN r Strasse Ad e l hauserstr .600 acres of vineyards. Wine? Yes. Herrens trasse Bert .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 329 Freiburg Kath strasarinense Heb stras else Meria nstr. surrounding the city are 1. the smell of new wine fills the narrow streets even as snow is already falling on those nearby summits. fd er Zin ne n Scho ferstr . more than you find near any other city in Germany. Hauptbahnhof stras Jak Bu obStrarckha sse rdt- Bis Ka strarlsse Rosa Friedrich ring se Leo pold STADTGARTEN ring Tu lhe lms tra sse l .1 mi trass ma rk e Colombistr asse - Meria nstr a ss e Eise nba hnst Ga tte ckr ing se ph e Ro olds trass Ka ise r- Un s r s s s it ä t e Sedan - UNIVERSITÄT ivetra A L T S T A D T Gr ü Belfortstra sse Wi Ra m Martinstor pa v iktstr. Holzm ark t on Gerberau Mün gass zSalz nwal e s t ra de r s t r ss e . a four-day public wine-tasting festival takes place in the Münsterplatz. str. Mo zart st COLOMBIPARK Au i r. at g a h a u ssse Rathausplatz Jo - Str as se rass e u c h- i R r mstr1 Sch iffs tr. the square outside Freiburg’s magnificent Gothic cathedral.

is easily walkable.m.50). where you find all the major attractions. about eight hours.. Saturday 10 a.m. Monday to Friday 10 a. Sunday 10 a. Rotteckring 14 (% 0761/388-1880. a day ticket costs 4. low-key. If you’re traveling in the Black Forest. Monday through Friday 10 a. www.m. Although the town was heavily damaged during World War II. For train information. freiburg. to 2:30 p. The .bahn.m. to 5:30 p. and sells passes. The train trip from Frankfurt takes about two hours. The May Frühlingsmess (Spring Fair) and October Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair) both last ten days. youthful edge to the old city. A oneway fare costs 2€ ($2. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.. to noon. Wandering through its ancient streets is a pleasure at any time of year.) Getting to Freiburg Frequent trains connect Freiburg to Baden-Baden and other cities throughout Germany and Europe.330 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Festivals are a year-round part of life in Freiburg.m. Sunday 10 a. 20-room inn have smack-dab views of Freiburg’s mighty cathedral.. providing access to Freiburg..m. The large student presence adds a lively. to 8 p. the city plays host to the two-week-long Zeltmusik Festival (Tent Music Festival).de). October through May. with bonfires and parades. The office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Getting around Freiburg The Altstadt. Freiburg’s medieval charm has been preserved.m. Freiburg makes for an atmospheric overnight stay. RVF (% 0761/207-280) operates the city’s bus and tram system.m. And in June. and Saturday from 8 a. with performances in giant outdoor tents. Saturday 10 a.m. to 7 p. Plus-Punkt. Finding information The tourist information office. and exploring the sights in the surrounding Schwarzwald is easy and fun. from Hamburg. Staying in Freiburg Rappen $ –$$ Altstadt The best rooms in this charming. located right outside.m.m. is open June through September. If you’re driving from the Bodensee (Lake Constance).de. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. For those coming by car.m.m.m. has schedules and information.60€ ($5. Weinkost is a long wine-tasting event in midAugust.75). to noon. Salzstrasse 3 (% 0761/451-1500) in the Altstadt. Rooms are generally on the small side and simply but comfortably furnished. Their pre-Lenten carnival called Fasnet is one of the best in Germany. take B31 west. to 6 p. including a bombing in error by the German Luftwaffe. the A5 Autobahn runs north–south through the Black Forest. to 2 p.

See map p. www. www. Reservations recommended. 329. Münsterplatz 22. which means “At the Red Bear.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 331 units with private bathrooms have showers. 329. 79098 Freiburg. You find plenty of activity right outside the hotel on Münsterplatz. 329. Standing just outside the hotel is one of Freiburg’s medieval gateways. 4. You can dine in the Weinstube (wine tavern) with its ceiling-high ceramic stove or at a table on the square. Rates: 99€–110€ ($124–$137) double. Above the Weinstube. DC. MC. See map This wonderfully atmospheric and unpretentious inn has only 25 rooms and one of the best restaurants in Freiburg for traditional Black Forest fare and regional wines from the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards (see the next section. with a pretty painted facade and a list of innkeepers that goes back to the 14th century.hotelrappen. Dining in Freiburg Oberkirchs Weinstuben $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This historic wine tavern on Freiburg’s busy Münsterplatz. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt Zum Roten Bären. Fax: 0761/382-252. poultry. pork filets in morel cream sauce). Closed Jan.” is the oldest inn in Germany. AE. and seasonal dishes like pheasant. % 0761/31353. and the surrounding neighborhood is wonderfully picturesque. oldfashioned food: tasty soups (bean. Oberlinden 12. 25 rooms all have private bathrooms or showers. % 0761/387-870. AE. The tavern sits on a small square flanked by a . MC. www. including continental breakfast. Rates: 145€ ($181) double. meat dishes (veal Rates include buffet breakfast. All trams stop just behind the hotel. See map p. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2 p.m. those in the modern wing have little balconies overlooking leafy gardens and red-tiled rooftops. 79098 Freiburg. provides good regional cooking and comfortable rooms. AE. “Dining in Freiburg”). 79098 Freiburg. Münsterplatz 13. Rooms in the older section have more charm. or 5.roterbaeren. Doubles range from 126€ to 147€ ($157–$184).m. or Cathedral Square. site of a big weekday outdoor market. DC. Fixed-price menus: 18€–21€ ($22–$26). Rates include breakfast. Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede $ –$$ Altstadt REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL For outdoor summer dining. pea. % 0761/202-6868. V. Tram: 1. V. This place serves hearty portions of good. this Weinstube is the most picturesque and romantic spot in Freiburg. and 6:30–9:15 V. Main courses: 14€–25€ ($17–$31). or vegetable). MC.

or 6). V. 5. Gargoyles peer down from the tower’s roof.m. dating from the 13th century. and Sunday 1 to 6 p. Gothic elements had been incorporated into the design.332 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rushing Bächle (little brook) and horse-chestnut trees. See map p. Exploring Freiburg Most of what you want to see is in the Altstadt. MapInsel 1. to midnight. an area bounded by the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) on the west side of the inner city. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL The “Red Bear” has one of the best kitchens in Freiburg and one of the most authentically atmospheric dining rooms.m.m. cooked ham. where you can sample seasonal dishes. a salad with smoked lox. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. % 0761/ 202-790. one of them with its backside turned toward the archbishop’s house across the square. Fixed-price menus: 35€ ($44). MC. fruity accompaniment. % 0761/35037. Oberlinden 12 (just inside the Schwabentor). In the hotel Zum Roten Bären. A simpler Vesperkarte (late-evening menu) is available from 10 p. site of Freiburg’s rose-colored Münster (Cathedral. the earliest. DC. The cathedral was begun in 1200 in the Romanesque style. and a wooded hill called the Schlossberg on the east. and 6:30–11:30 p. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 3 p. supposedly a sign of the architect’s contempt for the city fathers. Tram: 4. The cathedral contains some superb stained-glass windows. to 6 p. MC. The good food arrives in extremely large portions. . 329. and Hollandaise sauce. 329. The menu presents a full array of wonderfully prepared dishes using local ingredients. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27).m. See map p. the Dreisam river on the south. Its West Tower. such as Spargel (white asparagus). The chef’s daily recommendation may be cream of tomato soup. one of Germany’s masterpieces of Gothic architecture.) All visitors eventually congregate in the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square). 43€ ($54). grown on the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards. are in the south chancel. is a light. This part of town is medieval Freiburg at its most appealing. Tram: 1. Open: Daily noon to midnight. AE.m. V. Zwiebelschmelze is a spinach-and-vegetable-filled ravioli covered with sautéed onions. Give yourself at least two hours to stroll and poke around. a specialty of the region. % 0761/387-870. but by the time the structure was completed in 1620. The Spargelpfannkuchen is asparagus served with a special pancake. a magnificent openwork spire atop an open octagonal belfry. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). A young Rivaner wine. The building is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. This place is a good one for trying Zwiebel (onion) dishes.m. is one of the most beautiful in Germany. Admission to the cathedral is free. or tagliatelle with shrimps. available in May and June. Tram: 1.

50). Chestnut trees and a fountain add to the charm of Rathausplatz. with narrow cobblestone streets and restored houses once used by fishermen and tanneries. built in 1761 for a local painter and sculptor and now home to the Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Town History Museum. Martin’s Gate). to 5 p.m. the other city gate. you can climb to the top of the Münster’s famous West Tower.. the chief attraction in the Insel . East of the university you find the Martinstor (St.. to 5 p.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 333 The Bächle of Freiburg To help the town stay cool in the hot summer sun. The third building to the left of the Historisches Kaufhaus is the baroque Wentzingerhaus. The oxblood-colored Historisches Kaufhaus (Historical Department Store). a Gothic customs and financial administration center with protruding. pointed-roof watchtowers and a 16thcentury gallery decorated with the statues of four Habsburg emperors.. Augustinerplatz (% 0761/201-2531). For a wonderful view of Freiburg and the distant mountains. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. the city’s patron saint. November through March. comprised of two highly decorated 16th-century merchants’ houses connected by an arcade.m. On the west side of the square is Freiburg’s Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). closed Monday. The neighborhood around the Schwabentor is called the Insel (Island) because rushing streams. called Bächle. the tower is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a. The mid-18th-century Erzbischöflisches Palais (Archbishop’s Palace) has a pale-yellow facade and an ornate wrought-iron balcony. From April through October. near the Schlossberg. George. Paintings on the tower include one of St. A 14th-century Augustinian monastery with a yellow baroque front houses the Augustinermuseum (Augustinian Friars Museum). when Freiburg was a walled city. Sunday from 1 to 5 p. The Schwabentor (Swabian Gate). According to local folklore. The brooks channel water from the Dreisam River through the old university town. You can see the Bächle running alongside many Altstadt streets. is still used as the town’s official reception hall. They were first devised to keep the city clean and to help fight fires. surround it. you will marry a person from Freiburg. another busy square just west of the cathedral. one of two surviving gates from the Middle Ages. across from the cathedral. if you step in a Bächle. The Insel is the most picturesque quarter in Freiburg. dates from around 1200 and stands on the southeast edge of the Altstadt.m. % 0761/201-2515).m. A trio of historic buildings stands along the south side of Münsterplatz. Freiburg has many lovely old fountains and a unique system of streams called Bächle (little brooks) that date back to the 12th century. admission is 2€ ($2.m.

From the Belchen.) From Todtnau. the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. 4€ ($5) for children. to 4:30 p. Continue south to the hamlet of Todtnau. The cable car operates June through September from 10 a. enclosed gondola.50€ ($5..m. a hill that provides good views of the cathedral. From the grassy summit you can see the Feldberg and other nearby mountains. twisting road to Schauinsland. You can also ascend the Schlossberg by cable car (% 0761/39855) from the Stadtgarten (City Gardens). The area also has easy hiking trails. From the Schwabentor.000 years. the round-trip ride costs 6. you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Black Forest and be back in time for dinner. and the vast Rhine plain to the west. another popular Black Forest lake. pick up B317 west to Utzenfeld and follow the narrow road northwest to the Belchen. The round-trip takes about an hour. The cable car operates daily from 9 a.. Give yourself about 90 minutes for the gondola ride and a stroll on the summit.50) for children. to 6 p.50) for adults.50).6km-long (1-mile) footpath to an impressive series of waterfalls. the cable car operates daily from 9:30 a. you can climb 91 steps to an observation tower for a panoramic view toward the Feldberg. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter.334 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Quarter. From Titisee. where another enclosed gondola. a pathway climbs up the Schlossberg.m.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. takes visitors to the 1.m. The roundtrip fare is 3€ ($3. where you find a 1. Inside you find a collection of religious art spanning more than 1. Belchenstrasse 13 (% 07673/888-280). The roundtrip costs 6€ ($7. head back north along B500 to Titisee. a famous mile-high peak. 4. you can return to Freiburg by heading west along B31.m.m. Driving through the Upper Black Forest From Freiburg. the Belchen Seilbahn. From Schluchsee.750-ft.m. takes you to the peak for one of the most spectacular views in the Schwarzwald. Admission is 2€ ($2. to 5 p. (You need about an hour to get to the falls and back. Continue on B317 east and turn south on B500 to Schluchsee. A new.m. to 5 p. backtrack to Utzenfeld and follow B317 east to Feldberg. the Feldbergbahn (% 07655/8019).75).m. Along the way.40€ ($8) for adults.m.m. one of the loveliest of the Black Forest lakes.450m (4. head south on Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse to Günterstal and follow the narrow. tile roofs in small villages. . you pass some of the forest’s highest peaks and two of its most beautiful lakes. to 7 p. From the parking lot. green hillside pastures. October through January from 11:30 a. you can see the highest peaks of the Alps to the south. a nearby peak.) From Freiburg. and on a clear day.

. The shop ships to the United States and Canada and takes American Express. Turkey. to 5 p. is available from the tourist information office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Freiburg). As early as 1840. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. Russia.) You may also want to visit the Haus der 1000 Uhren (House of 1. a painter of clock faces. In addition to the world’s largest collection of Black Forest clocks. is a good place to go.50€ ($3) for students. Freiburg’s cathedral (described earlier).de).m. If you’re looking for a traditional timepiece to take home from the Black Forest.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 335 Time out: Buying a Black Forest cuckoo clock Since 1667. Diners Club. Triberg-Gemmelsbach (% 07722/96300). You can’t miss the shop: A giant cuckoo clock and water wheel are in front. Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1. 48km (30 miles) northeast of Freiburg on B33. Furtwangen (% 07723/920-117). One of the most interesting museums on the route is the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum).m. including program schedules and ticket sales. 2. Along the way. (Note: Triberg can be jammed with cuckoo-clock shoppers in the summer. and a program of organ recitals in the Münster. located on B33 between Triberg and Hornberg. music boxes. England. Triberg is one of the stops on this 320km (200-mile) scenic route through the Black Forest from VillingenSchwenningen to Bad Duerrheim.deutsche-uhrenstrasse.000 Clocks). Black Forest clocks were being shipped to China. and America. ranging from classical music to theater to pop concerts. to 5 p.m. In June. MasterCard. The shop is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. huge tents house the annual Zeltmusik festival (Tent Music Festival). to 6 p. Summer also brings a series of chamber-music concerts to the Historisches Kaufhaus. launched the business in 1824. Josef Weisser. An der Bundesstrasse 33.m. Discovering nightlife in Freiburg The Konzerthaus (Concert House) plays host to a variety of events. in Münsterplatz. which emphasizes jazz but includes other musical styles. Triberg. shops also sell woodcarvings. and November through March from 10 a. when the first wooden clock was made in Waldau. Information about all venues and events. the museum has timepieces from all around the world and from all epochs. clocks have been produced in the Black Forest. In addition to cuckoo clocks. The museum is open daily April through October from 9 a.m. his great-great-grandson is the current owner.m. and Visa. you find all kinds of museums and sights related to clocks. and other traditional crafts. Clock watchers with time on their hands may want to drive the Deutsche Uhrenstrasse (German Clock Road. . www.

.m..m. Hausbrauerei Feierling. Schnewlinstrasse 3 (% 0761/ 32475. in the basement. the city also has a thriving bar and club scene. Tram: 1. is open daily from 11 a. or 5). Tram: 1 or 2). Neither club charges a cover.m.336 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany With some 25.) plays house and techno for dancers. to midnight. Gerberau 46 (% 0761/26678.–3:30 a.m.000 university students. 4. Two clubs in one. a brewpub with a popular beer garden across the street. serves drinks and plays background punk. open Wed–Sat 10 p. open Thurs–Sat midnight to 4 a. Crash. Drifler’s Club (no phone. house. and funk.

Heidelberg is one of the few German cities that was not leveled by air raids in World War II (WWII). the old lanes and squares. can easily be visited as a side trip from Heidelberg. Army base. Nuremberg.Chapter 18 Heidelberg. baroque. Today. Heidelberg. the leafy hills and woodlands beside . is one of Germany’s most romantic cities. summer is also a time when droves of visitors from around the globe invade this beautiful city. or Nürnberg as it’s known in German. I Heidelberg: Romance on the River Heidelberg.S. on the Neckar River. Both are castle-crowned cities worth visiting for a day or two. The looming ruins of the ancient castle. Stuttgart. summertime in Heidelberg is a time for music and romance. so you still can see original buildings from the Middle Ages. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting romantic Heidelberg ᮣ Discovering the cultural delights of Stuttgart ᮣ Exploring historic Nuremberg devote this chapter to three special cities in central Germany. is a historic and very attractive city in the state of Bavaria.) According to a song from the operetta The Student Prince. Stuttgart. But some of its legendary romantic allure stems from what was basically a 19thcentury public-relations campaign. 88km (55 miles) south of Frankfurt. This architecture is certainly a major part of Heidelberg’s appeal. the cultural center of this region. (See the “Heidelberg” map in this chapter. is renowned for its castle and its university. which is set in Heidelberg. Renaissance. Many Americans know Heidelberg because of the nearby U. and neoclassical eras. located on the Neckar River in the state of BadenWürttemberg.

bahn. The round-trip tour lasts about three hours and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. 10€ ($13) for students and children. 5€ ($6. and 2:30 p. The town came to symbolize old-world German Romanticism at its most picturesque. Saturday at 10:30 a. and unlimited use of public Boats depart from the landing stage near the Stadthalle. Taking a guided tour A two-hour guided walking tour of the city departs from the Lion’s Fountain on Universitätsplatz at 10:30 a. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. Getting there Heidelberg is easily accessible by train from all major cities in Germany and Europe. The great writer Goethe and many other poets.m. outside the main train station. and Sunday and holidays at 10:30 a. 6€ ($7.rnf-schifffahrt. to 7 p. between the TheodorHeuss-Brücke (bridge) and the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). . www. Finding information The tourist information office. For train schedules and information. From April through October. They praised the town in their writings and immortalized it in their music and paintings. Purchase your ticket from the tourist information office at the train station. Fri–Sat in English) from April through October. walking and boat tours. and musicians “discovered” Heidelberg in the early 19th century. The office has maps and brochures. The cost is 7€ ($8.cvb-heidelberg.m. and Sunday from 10 a. provides admission to Heidelberg Castle and discounts on attractions..m.. From Easter through October. November through March the tour takes place only on Saturday at 2:30 p.. depart from Universitätsplatz on Thursday and Friday at 2:30 p. painters. and the youthful student population all had great appeal to the German Romantics.m. good for two days and available for 14€ ($17) from the tourist information office and at many hotels. call Deutsche Bahn % 11861 or visit www. Willy-Brandt-Plaza 1 (% 06221/19433. The train trip to Heidelberg’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is only one hour from Frankfurt and about three hours from Nuremberg. (closed Sun Nov–Mar).m. The Heidelberg Card. Rhein-Neckar-Fahrgastschiffahrt (% 06221/20181. Purchase tickets at the tourist information office at the train station.m.m. to 6 p.m. www.25) for students and offers daily guided boat tours (commentary in German and English) on the Neckar River between Heidelberg and Neckarsteinach.50) for children. including the castle. daily (Mon–Thurs in German. The cost is 14€ ($17) for adults.338 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the Neckar.m. and only on Saturday from November through March. guided bus tours of the city (in German and English).75) for adults.

kteufel Am Hac rst Necka r. AL TS TAD T 6 M rg. Stuttgart.ACCOMMODATIONS weg Philosophenrtchen gärtchen e Neu nhe antelg Grosse M S c h if f g a 1 r. Land Schlangenweg cksä EICHENDORFFANLAGE gg we en ph oso l i Ph 7 7 Hölderlin. Semmel Steingasse Dreikön herg. Haspelg. S To Bismarckplatz enga Plöck Heidelberg 339 1 1 To Train Station rich-Ebert-Anlage Fried eg nw ule Heidelberg Munich Das Hotel am Rathaus 9 Der Europäische HofHotel Europa 1 Hotel Hirschgasse 7 Hotel Zum Ritter St. Biene Karpfe Zie Krame ts Haup tr. loss Sch ue Ne Schlossberg Schloss nweg unne Wolfsbr str. 15 15 H ststr. and Nuremberg Akad Semin arstr. igstr. se lgas ge r. 12 arls Karlsplatz K ATTRACTIONS Heiliggeistkirche 8 Kurpfälzisches Museum 2 Marktplatz 10 Rathaus 12 Heidelberg Castle 16 Studentenkarzer 4 Universitätsplatz 5 e nbe ies Fr tr. str.1 mile N 100 meters . s-s os Grab dga ler Pelz SCHLOSSGARTEN 15 sse rstr. eg . Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei 15 Alte Brücke ime r La r. Theate Kettengasse Friedri chstr. 0 0 0. Untere St asse Jubiläumsplatz r ecka re N Unte Bauamtsgasse nstr. Ob r ere Fa ule Ne ue tr. 9 13 sg. Ingrimst e Universitätsplatz San 5 Zw el nn tu rg e sb os hl Sc Castle 16 tr. 7 hg. g d lba Mitte ngass . adg erb . gei 14 eilig upt Ha str. rg Marstallstr. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei Restaurant 15 Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant 2 Mensurstube 7 Simplicissimus 6 Zum Goldenen Schaf 3 Zum Roten Ochsen 13 Zum Sepp’l 14 kar Nec Leyer gasse Mönc a Neck Fisc rstad en Lauerstr. gasse Plöck Kling ento rstr. erianstr ing ers tr. Heumarkt Ob Fischmarkt 8 10 Marktplatz 11 11 Kornmarkt Bur gw sse 3 4 2 2 Haupts tr. ndst DINING Die Kurfürstenstube 1 Hotel Zum Ritter St. frieds Land sse er Unt au er F Marz rP elz Sc hl udwig Karl-L Werrgas Bism ar Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main äuser Ziegelh str. emie -str. Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Schlossber g ch Neue S l os s - st r .

. Das Hotel am Rathaus $ –$$ Altstadt This hotel is one of Heidelberg’s nicest and most affordable. or Market Square.340 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Orienting yourself Your first glimpse of “romantic old Heidelberg” as you emerge from the Hauptbahnhof on the west side of town may be disappointing. % 06221/22796) runs from Kornmarkt. daily. Heidelberg is crisscrossed with a network of streetcars and buses operated by the local transportation department.50). and the modern one is what you encounter first. so I recommend that you take a streetcar or bus to Bismarckplatz or Universitätsplatz to begin your explorations. like many in Germany and throughout Europe. to the east. between 9 a. in the Altstadt. above the Altstadt.75) for adults. The Altstadt is a long wedge of slate-roofed buildings along the Neckar River. It’s located right in the heart of the city on the Marktplatz. busy pedestrian street with narrow medieval lanes on both sides.50) for children and students. runs from Bismarckplatz into the compact Altstadt. and a botanical garden. 2€ ($2. with simple modern furnishings and tiled bathrooms with showers. valid for up to five persons traveling within a group. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. an area of tall buildings and shopping plazas. Fischmarkt. a 24-hour pass. a focal point for famed Heidelberg University. Hauptstrasse. A Bergbahn (funicular. However. The main squares in the Altstadt are Universitätsplatz. HSB (% 06221/5132000). Some larger rooms are suitable for families. and 7:40 p. costs 8€ ($10). the Altstadt is about a half-hour’s walk from the train station. and the Kornmarkt. the Marktplatz.m. The Altstadt (Old Town). dominated by the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit). the round-trip fare is 3€ ($3. Getting around Heidelberg After you arrive in the Altstadt you can walk everywhere. Buses 41 and 42 travel between the railway station and Universitätsplatz on the west side of the Altstadt. Modern Heidelberg centers on Bismarckplatz (streetcar lines 1 and 2 run there from the train station). beneath Heidelberg’s Schloss (castle). The city. Across the Neckar River is the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way). a popular walking trail. a zoo. up to the castle. Many bus and streetcar lines intersect at Bismarckplatz in the town center. is where you want to focus your sightseeing activities. The one potential drawback: The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. The 17 rooms are small but very pleasant. has a modern and a historical face.m. a wide. The Schloss crowns a hill to the south. Staying in Heidelberg See also the listing for the outstanding Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa ($$$$) in Chapter 22.

% 06221/1350. MC. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). Built in 1592 as the home of a cloth merchant. V. Stuttgart. Hirschgasse 3. The 20 rooms are all sumptuously comfortable suites decorated with Laura Ashley fabrics. and Nuremberg 341 See map p. The Mensurstube restaurant is one of the most historically atmospheric spots in town (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. Many of the 40 rooms are modest in size. The hotel doesn’t have public lounges. 69117 Heidelberg. 69117 Heidelberg. DC. Rates include buffet breakfast. www. www. The hotel has a cool. Hotel Zum Ritter St. 69100 Heidelberg. Rates: 160€–345€ ($200–$431) double. this historic hotel enjoys a tranquil and romantic setting. just a couple of minutes’ walk from the river. hip hotel. 339. the Zum Ritter St. Kulturbrauerei $$ Altstadt This small (21 rooms). % 06221/4540. AE. Georg is a well-preserved rarity from the German Renaissance. minimalist style. MC. The medium-sized rooms have light-colored hardwood floors and are furnished with comfortable beds and large wooden cupboards. See map p. 339. The hotel dates from 1472 and has lodged such impressive figures as Mark Twain and Bismarck. Most of the rooms contain tiled bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. DC. MC. Hotel Hirschgasse $$$ –$$$$ North Side of the River Nestled on the hillside of a historic lane adjoining the famous Philosophenweg on the north side of the Neckar.ritter-heidelberg. See map p. the main street in the Altstadt. is connected to a microbrewery. Georg $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Located right on the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse. % 06221/14730. AE. but the beds are comfortable. V. the hotel is among Heidelberg’s sightseeing attractions thanks to its highly decorated. Bus: 34 from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop. Fax: 06221/ 135-230. and all come equipped with shower-tub-whirlpool combinations in the bathrooms. Fax: 06221/454-111. later in this chapter). Fax: 06221/ 147-337. Bathrooms are adequately roomy with tub-shower combinations (four .de.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. The dining room specializes in duck breast and venison. 339. Rates: 144€–206€ ($180–$257) double. Heiliggeiststrasse 1. DC. V. Rates include breakfast buffet. the front rooms also can be noisy because of neighboring cafes and The Altstadt is a ten-minute walk from the hotel. Rates: 99€–154€ ($124–$193) double. Although they have Romantic Altstadt views. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 4-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Heiliggeiststrasse on the east side of Marktplatz). Hauptstrasse 178. gabled facade.

and 6:30–11:30 p. In Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. 339. and filet of turbot with celery on saffron foam with coriander tortellini. 339. V. Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1. The menu is in English. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). with fixed-price and à la carte meals. carpaccio of scallops and Scottish wild salmon with mushrooms in raspberry vinaigrette. Hauptstrasse 178. Unfortunately. Fixed-price menus: 60€–80€ ($75–$100). Other menu offerings include staples such as pork loin with sauerkraut or roast salmon in a basil-cream sauce. See map p.heidelberger-kulturbrauerei. If you don’t stay here. and 6–10 p. MC. % 06221/1350. try the Dortmunder Actien-Brauerei. www.342 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rooms have showers only). 339. you may want to dine at the on-site restaurant (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. but the cuisine is mainly French. The restaurant uses only the highest-quality seasonal ingredients. you can dine in the large Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) or the smaller Councilors’ Chamber. when tables are set up in the microbrewery’s beer garden. See map p. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 MC. Main courses: 25€–37€ ($31–$46). V. DC. Reservations recommended. AE. Georg $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL At this restaurant. located in one of Heidelberg’s most famous Renaissance buildings. Hotel Zum Ritter St. Rates: 116€–149€ ($134–$186) double. and the wine list is the most impressive in town. Fax: 06221/900-099. MC. Locals flock here when this dish is on the menu.m. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse).m. 69117 Heidelberg. A good beginning may be the snail soup with herbs or tomato soup with whipped cream. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. V. next). Dining in Heidelberg Die Kurfürstenstube $$$$ Altstadt FRENCH The best dining spot in Heidelberg is the wood-paneled Die Kurfürstenstube in the deluxe Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. Look for culinary delights such as cream of watercress soup with poached quail egg and summer truffles in tempura. Reservations required. veal with stuffed pumpkins. If you like beer. AE. . The house specialty is saddle of venison for two (in season). % 06221/5150. A children’s menu includes dishes such as Wiener Würstchen (small Vienna-style sausages).m. and courtyard-facing rooms can be noisy in the summer. % 06221/90000. AE. Main courses: 10€–15€ ($13–$19). DC. the hotel doesn’t have airconditioning. Leyergasse 6. See map p. Fixed-price menus: 20€–40€ ($25–$50). The dessert menu is equally scrumptious.m. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 3-minute walk south to Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage).

% 06221/4540. V.m. Bus: 34 (from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop). V.m. See map p. 339. try the mocha and Grand Marnier parfait with fruit sauce. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Haupstrasse). See map p.m. dishes from the grill (bratwursts. Open: Daily 10 a. or vegetarian meals. In the Hotel Hirschgasse. Fresh fish dishes may include zander with lemon cream. Stuttgart. Reservations recommended for dinner. to midnight.m. earlier in this chapter).–11 p. roast fish). Leyergasse 6. Open: Daily 11 a. For dessert. You can eat on the balcony or. and Nuremberg Kulturbrauerei Restaurant $ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL 343 Part of a microbrewery and hotel complex (see the “Staying in Heidelberg” section. in summer. followed by homemade noodles. See map p. Potato soup is a good starter. % 06221/90000. V.m. olives. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. MC. . Mensurstube $$ –$$$ North Bank GERMAN/REGIONAL No other place in Heidelberg captures bygone days quite like this rustic and cozy spot in the ancient Hotel Hirschgasse. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). AE. and herbs. Hirschgasse 3. % 06221/24050. MC. and 6–10 p. pork filet with mushrooms. You can order salads. The restaurant also has a pleasant dining room. Come here when you’re in the mood for hearty portions of traditional German food washed down by one of the homemade Scheffel’s beers. 339. DC. or tuna fish with tomatoes. The menu often includes Rinderfilet (filet of beef) served with bone marrow and a red-wine sauce. MC.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. spareribs). or pork medallions in a pepper-cream sauce with homemade Spätzle (a potato-based pasta). seasonal specialties (herring. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). oxtail. popular restaurant formerly was a dance hall. Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL On a warm summer’s day or evening. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). where swords hang from the ceiling and you sit at 200-year-old tables. this large. You can also get meat dishes: a good rib-eye steak. pork stomach. in the beer garden. Almost everything is best accompanied by Pils beer on tap. The limited menu wisely sticks to traditional dishes made with fresh ingredients. or lamb shank. Reservations recommended. Main courses: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). Hauptstrasse 97. nothing is more enjoyable or romantic than dining in the museum’s garden courtyard with its splashing fountain. 339. lamb with rosemary. swordfish with a pepper crust.

The town has few must-see sights. See map p. MC. Fixed-price menu: 34€–85€ ($42–$106).m. Ingrimstrasse 16. Walking is the most rewarding approach because of the constantly changing views of the town and surrounding countryside.. it is one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance castles in Germany. Hauptstrasse 115. and for many visitors there is only one: the famous Schloss (castle) that looks down on the Altstadt. Open: Wed–Mon 6 p. and the wine list is good. The easiest and most gradual path begins at the Klingentor. Set amid woodlands and terraced gardens. duck breast with asparagus. AE. Visiting the top attraction Heidelberg Castle Most visitors reach the huge red-sandstone Schloss on foot. the main street in the Altstadt. fresh mushrooms in cream sauce with homemade noodles. Zum Goldenen Schaf $$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL Located on Hauptstrasse. Main courses: 19€–45€ ($24–$56).344 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Simplicissimus $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH This elegant gourmet restaurant in the Altstadt is known for its cuisine moderne. Portions are hearty and very filling. Sat–Sun 11 a. See map p. The menu changes often but may include lamb with a red-wine and onion purée. steeper path up Burgweg from Kornmarkt. Open: Mon–Fri noon to 1 a. V.m. or 41. to midnight. 35. V. and one of the most famous historic monuments in Europe. 12.m. 339. and wandering through the old lanes and squares of the Altstadt is as essential a part of any tour as visiting the tourist attractions. Reservations required. Closed 2 weeks in Mar and 2 weeks in Aug. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Hauptstrasse). but try to save room for warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. this historic pubrestaurant offers a menu emphasizing regional dishes from Swabia and the Pfalz. . Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). you also find a shorter. Plan to spend about two hours here.m. 339. Service is friendly. % 06221/183-336. You may want to try the Kringelbratwurst (roast sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes) or Swabian sauerbraten (marinated beef with red cabbage and noodles). % 06221/20879. the enormous ruins of the castle are undeniably picturesque. Exploring Heidelberg Heidelberg is a wonderfully pleasant town to explore. or by taking a two-minute cable-car ride from Kornmarkt (see “Getting around Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). DC.–1 a. or crayfish with fresh melon and herbflavored cream sauce. 33. Bus: 11. Even in its deteriorated state.

After it was rebuilt.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. stalls of fresh flowers. 4€ ($5) adults.000 liters (55. Its restored rooms can be seen on guided tours. Admission: Castle grounds. Stuttgart. constructed in 1549. the castle was struck by lightning.50€ ($4. % 06221/538-431.50) children. connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrichsbau (palace of Ottheinrich). In the southeast corner. to 5 p. the largest in the world. The second phase. % 06221/25880). This enormous wine barrel. fish. fortifications and living quarters were constructed. The Elizabethentor (Elizabeth’s Gate). Entering at the main gate..m. the ruins of the castle became a symbol for the German Romantics and a mecca for tourists from around the world. but the castle as it stands today was built in two main phases. The Hortus Palatinus (Castle Gardens) originally were created in the 17th century. The palace’s terrace offers a magnificent view of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. in the 16th-century cellars of the castle. At the west end of the terrace. entrance courtyard. . you find the remains of a grotto and a sandstone sculpture of Father Rhine. 339.75) adults. daughter of the English king James I) leads to the bridge crossing the former moat. Housed within Ottheinrich’s palace is the Apothekenmuseum (Pharmacy Museum. Open: Daily 8 a.m. To the east. and Nuremberg 345 The history of Heidelberg Castle An elevated fortress rose above Heidelberg as early as 1225. erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his teenage wife (Elizabeth Stuart. Tours: Frequent 1-hour guided tours of the castle in English.m. 1. vegetables. During the first phase.–5:30 p.50€ ($2) children. was built in 1751 and once held more than 208. Schlossberg. you first come upon the Pulverturm (Gun Tower) and a terrace with views of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. is the shell of the Spiegelbau (Hall of Mirrors). from 1549 to 1620. 3€ ($3. Audio tours: 3. between about 1400 and 1544. re-creating a baroqueand rococo-era chemist’s shop with utensils and laboratory equipment from the 17th and 18th centuries. free. Pharmacy Museum.50).000 gallons) of wine. saw the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles as various prince electors of the Palatinate added to the building. your castle entrance ticket includes admission. The castle was the residence of the prince electors for centuries until French troops sacked and destroyed it in the late 17th century. The museum is open daily from 10 a. erected from 1601 to 1607 and less damaged than other parts of the castle.m. Along the north side of the courtyard stretches the Friedrichsbau (palace of Friedrich IV). 2€ ($2. Touring the Altstadt Marktplatz (Market Square) is the main square in the Altstadt. On market days (Wed and Sat). and Great Cask. In the 19th century. sits the Grosse Fass (Great Cask). See map p. cheese.

Heidelberg University.m. Georg (see “Staying in Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter).25) for students and children 17 and younger. dominates the west end of Marktplatz.50€ ($3. including portraits and silhouettes. and a section on the history of the Palatinate. 1. where from 1778 to 1914 generations of students were incarcerated in cramped cells for minor offenses. now the Hotel Zum Ritter St.346 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany meat. A five-minute walk west from the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse and south 1 block on Grabengasse brings you to Universitätsplatz (University Square). The hotel is named for the statue of the Ritter (knight) at the top.m. you find the Studentenkarzer (Students’ Prison).m. Admission is 2. The prison is open April through September. built around 1400. is the oldest in Germany. For nearly 300 years. a building from the 18th century. Hauptstrasse 97 (% 06221/583-402).–5 p. Housed in a baroque palace.75) for adults. to 4 p. no phone.” earlier in this chapter) is a good choice for lunch or dinner. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. on the east side of the square. The late-Gothic Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost. Augustinerstrasse 2 (% 06221/543-554). cover the walls and even the ceilings. Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. Give yourself about 45 minutes to browse through the various exhibits. founded in 1386. . October through March. the church was the burial place of the Palatinate electors. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. Heidelberg’s most noteworthy museum contains a large collection of regional painting and sculpture from the 15th to the 19th centuries. and at the south end of the square is the Neue Universität (New University). to 6 p. In 1706. Graffiti and drawings.50) for students and children 14 and younger. A few steps past the Old University. The wall has since been removed and the church restored to its original plan. completed in 1932. You can also see an archaeological collection with a cast of the jawbone of the 600.m. discovered in the vicinity nearly 100 years ago. 2€ ($2.. The one masterpiece on display is Tilman Riemenschneider’s 1509 wooden altarpiece showing Christ and the Apostles. stands on the south side of Marktplatz. is an early-18th-century building reconstructed in 1908 following a fire. The highly decorated Renaissance mansion.m. On the northeastern side is the Alte Universität (Old University).m. open daily 8 a. (Wed until 8 p.000-year-old Heidelberg Man (Homo heidelbergensis).80€ ($2. A two-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse from Universitätsplatz brings you to the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate).m. The museum restaurant (see “Dining in Heidelberg.10) for adults. a wall was erected to divide the church between Roman Catholics and Protestants. and baked goods fill the square. A Huguenot cloth merchant who emigrated from France to Heidelberg erected the building in 1592.).m. to 6 p. The Rathaus (Town Hall).). Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.

bathroom. Hauptstrasse 217 (% 06221/20977). A lively outdoor market is open on Wednesday and Saturday at the Marktplatz. Some noteworthy shops include ߜ Altstadt-Galerie Stefan.50€ ($3) and up.m. Stuttgart. Tram: 1 or 5). to midnight. The tavern is open April through October on Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a. and glass and crystal ornaments. near Karlsplatz. and theater to venues around the area. The performing arts The main performance stage is Theater der Stadt. As the evening progresses. ߜ Kinderwaren Troll. opened in 1703. Revelers sit at long oak tables arranged in horseshoe fashion around a pianist. ߜ Black Forest Shop. Historic taverns Heidelberg’s most famous and revered student tavern.m. A mug of beer costs about 2. Hauptstrasse 215 (% 06221/619-983). to midnight. including Heidelberg Castle. the Schlossfestspiele festival brings opera. Bus: 41 or 42). Contact % 06274/58352 for tickets or visit www. For five weeks beginning in late July. Meals go for 10€ to 18€ ($13–$22). sells charming original engravings for as little as 10€ ($13). UntereStrasse 18 (% 06221/28737). to 2 p. offers a wide assortment of handicrafts from across Germany: music boxes. and dance productions. and table. November through March hours are 5 p. ߜ Michael Kienscherff. Friedrichstrasse 5 (% 06221/583-502. the songs become louder and louder. where nightly entertainment includes plays.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Living it up after dark in Heidelberg The large student population keeps Heidelberg humming after dark. Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn). dolls. is known for its array of fine linens and embroideries for bed. Plöck 71 (% 06221/893-6677). opera. cuckoo ߜ Gätschenberger. and 5 p. . is a children’s clothing and toy store with handcrafted puppets. jazz. nutcrackers.m. Hauptstrasse 42 (% 06221/14480). classical music. Hauptstrasse 177 (% 06221/24255. sells Hummel figurines.schlossfestspielheidelberg. and beer steins. nativity scenes. late nights get rolling in clubs around Marktplatz.m. and wooden blocks and figures. Early evenings often start in the bars along Hauptstrasse. and Nuremberg 347 Shopping in Heidelberg The main shopping street is the traffic-free Hauptstrasse.

Swabia has been a leader of German industry for decades. but most of the people who live here still call the area Swabia. with about 230 decorated stalls selling gifts. Stuttgart is the capital of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. and cinnamon waffles. The building dates from 1634. It’s open Monday through Friday from 5:30 p. As a cultural center. The name comes from Suevi. a wedge of limestone upland south of Stuttgart.) A visit to Stuttgart can be even more enjoyable when you time your trip to coincide with one of the city’s major festivals. For dates and more information. All of them take place right in the center of town on Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. Stuttgart makes for a great daytrip from Heidelberg. 115km (71 miles) southeast of Heidelberg.m. Forests sweep south to the Bodensee. Stuttgart plays host to a lively Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt). At the Stuttgart Wine Festival in late August. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. A mug of beer goes for 2. A Side Trip to Stuttgart Located in the Neckar Valley. yet it remains surprisingly verdant.70). but the region also is renowned for its scenic countryside. the original inhabitants. Dating back to 1818. Visitors come from across the region to enjoy the city’s museums and performing arts. and west to the Danube River. to midnight.D. begins in late September with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes. To the north. and 5:30 p. The 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. who were conquered by the Franks in the fifth century A. nestled in gently rolling hills with woods and vineyards reaching right down into the city.95€ ($3.m. With Stuttgart as its capital. A pianist performs nightly. Next door is Zum Sepp’l. Stuttgart has no equal in southwestern Germany. Saturday and Sunday from noon to 2:30 p. . Meals cost 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter.000 beer drinkers. the Schwäbische Wald (Swabian Forest) stretches to the Schwäbische Alb. Starting in late November. to midnight. wine lovers converge to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. For more than a century Stuttgart has been a center of German industry. the beer festival features food.stuttgart-tourist. The smaller Neckar River flows past Heidelberg and Stuttgart through a vineyard-covered valley. also part of Swabia. filled with photographs and memorabilia. and tents for some 20. one of the oldest and largest in Europe. mulled visit the city’s Web site at www.m.348 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Swabia: Stuttgart’s homeland Swabia (Schwaben in German) is the name for a medieval duchy now contained within the federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southwestern Germany. Hauptstrasse 213 (% 06221/23085). rides.

Heinemann Platz Kleiner Schlossplatz K ien ans tra ass sse Theatersee -Str 3 5 AKADEMIEGARTEN ena Schlossplatz Eug stra ensse stra uer Ulr ich sse sse Urb 8 9 hee Ca st ra ss e r te B Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Stuttgart Munich ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg 7 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart 6 Mercedes-Benz Museum 9 Neues Schloss 3 Staatsgalerie 2 Weissenhofsiedlung 1 Wilhelma 8 DINING Alte Kanzlei 5 Café Königsbau 4 Church Information Post Office i Al To Fernsehturm ex an de rst ra sse Hohenheimer Strasse rh Ebe ar ass e Br str enn as erse sen str s G ai bu rg str e lum ns tra sse ss Charlottenplatz a e tras lzs nig Ki lli che Bo str Th o str uret ass e Lau ass SCHLOSSGARTEN 2 e Staatstheater se Ne stra ckarsse r tle Sat Heg elst sse Ca gs gs ber nn sta a str tras se tte sse rstr 1 Hauptbahnhof ass eg e e rd ns e w tra r Pano am as e ss t ra 0 1/8 mile 125 meters ss Jäg ers ss tra e 0 N SCHLOSSGARTEN e st ra en ss e Moserstrasse We ima rstr ass So ph ien str as se . and Nuremberg 349 Stuttgart Di He Se am es an tra te ss ers e sse tra rass Krie i Sch lag ille tenstra ten Hegelplatz rstr sch STADTGARTEN ngs tra sse ass e Holzgar Kö e S rad Le u ch Bü ch se eo d St or-H ra e s lw u er. Stuttgart. ss e ras se an- tra rot Karlsplatz nst stra Fr itz Schillerplatz 7 Kon ns es tra 4 sse tra sse 6 -Ad Berliner Liederhalle Platz trasse asse tr sss Sch lo ne rs ssStr Tüb Kr as o i n s np Stra ger e rin sse zst Kö ras nig se str ass Hir e sch str a sse St ei ns tra Ha ss up e tS ta ds t tr a Le ss o St e str nha ra as rd ss se e -E lsa s-S Do Th M Ho Es lzs St sling tr.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. ra e sse r Rotebühlplatz e nste gu e Au trass s ar kt Ro Olg Marktplatz Urb ast r.

A one-day ticket (Einzel Tageskarte) costs 5. an old-fashioned Konditorei (pastry shop) located in the colonnade of the Königsbau next to the new art museum.m. is open Monday through Friday 9 a. From the airport’s Terminal 1. a one-way ticket costs 1. Purchase tickets from the automated machines in U-Bahn stations or from the bus driver. and Visa. spinach. Alte Kanzlei. www. Saturday 9 a. and Sunday 11 a.).m. The restaurant has a cafe section where you can get breakfast and lighter meals. or other fillings) and Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef topped with onions).m.m..75). and Sunday 11 a.m. The cost is 17€ ($21) per person. The restaurant is open daily from 11 for two zones. The tourist office offers a 21⁄2-hour guided sightseeing bus tour (in German and English) daily at 1 p.. or you can sit out on the terrace and have an ice cream.m.25) for one zone. and light meals are served at Café Königsbau. to 11 p. Access by car is via the A8 Autobahn east and west or the A81 north and south. Schillerplatz 5A (% 0711/29-44-57. the I-Punkt tourist information office. from April through October.m. and Sundays at 1:30 p. you can take the S2 or S3 S-Bahn directly to the main train station in central Stuttgart.m. specializes in traditional Swabian dishes such as Maultaschen (pasta stuffed with ham. MasterCard.m. Königstrasse 1A (% 0711/222-80. Fares are based on zones. to 6 p.m.stuttgart-tourist.m. Finding information and taking a tour Located opposite the main train station. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). The cafe is open Monday through Friday 9 a.350 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting to Stuttgart By train. For train schedules and information. you can reach all the major attractions in the Altstadt on foot. to 6 p.10€ ($6. call the city’s transportation authority VVS (% 0711/66060. Saturday 9 a. serves as a major gateway to southern Germany. Stuttgart Airport (% 0711/948-3388). . For information.) The Mercedes Museum and some other sights require the use of public transportation or a taxi. Main courses go for 9€ to 16€ ($11–$20).m. Königstrasse 28 (% 0711/290-787)..m..m. cake. (Nov–Apr 1–6 p. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. Stuttgart has a comprehensive S-Bahn system that links up with the U-Bahn (subway). Dining in Stuttgart Occupying a section of the Altes Schloss (Old Castle). Exploring Stuttgart From the train station. located 13km (8 miles) south of the city.m. for 7€ ($8.m. to 6 p. to 7 p. to 8 p. Saturdays. to 8 p. Diners Club. and in March on Fridays. trip time from Heidelberg is only 40 minutes.m.80€ ($2. www. Coffee. Ninety-minute city walking tours (in German only) are offered daily from April through October at 11 a.m. and accepts American Express. www. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter.

Kirchtalstr. Schwabenlandhalle Schorndorf Uff-Kirchhof Benningen Freiberg U5 U14 Neckargröningen Remseck S5 Tamm Freiberg (N) Wlhelmsplatz Bad Cannstatt Stöckach Felbach Lutherkirche U1 Blick Eszet Suttnerstr. Bihlplatz Südheimer Platz Österfeld Waldeck Kaltental Engelbold str. Salzwiessenstr. Wangen Marztplatz Kodak Obertürkheim Mettingen Esslingen Obresslingen Zell Altbach Lindpaintnerstr. Russische Kirche Giebel Keplerstr. Rosensteinbrücke Geradstetten Nürnberger Str. Rommelshausen Münster Rathaus Fellbach Stetten-Beinstein Münster Viadukt Sommerain Kraftwerk Münster Endersbach Beutelsbach 2 Obere Ziegelei Mühlsteg Grunbach Gnessener Str. Backnang Mühle Hornbach S3 Maubach Mühlhausen Auwissen Nellmersbach Hofen Max-Eyth-See Winneden Wagrainäcker Schwalkheim Elbestraße Neustadt-Hohenacker Waiblingen Freibergstr. Wangener-/Landhausstr. Eckhardt Neuwirtshaus Korntal Fortuna Löwentor Weilimdorf Wilhelm-Geiger-Platz Ditzingen Feuerbach Krankenhaus Höfingen Sportpark Feuerbach Leonberg Löwentorbrücke Feuerbach Pfostenwäldle Rutesheim Landauer Str. Pleininger Str. Peregrinastr. Akadamie Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Esslinger Str. Bubenbad Payerstr. Eltinger Str. Stammheim Kornwestheim Zuffenhausen Kelterplatz Stammheim Rathaus Hohensteinstr. Ludwigsburg 15 Fürfelder Str. Gaisberg Brendle Im Degen Inselstr. U7 Mainsheim der Stadt Pragfriedhof Eckhartsaldenweg Wolfbusch Bergheimer Hof Türlenstraße S6 Salamanderweg Rosenberg-/Seidenstr. Beethovenstr. Stuttgart. Berliner Platz Gerlingen Siedlung Schlotterbeckstr. Bockelstr. Stafflenbergstr. Bopser Weinsteige Degerloch Degerloch Albstr. Breitwiesen Falkerstr. Zuffenhausen Rathaus Korntaler Str. Landesversicherungsanstalt Asperg Favoritepark Tapachstr. Hauptbahnhof Berliner Platz Untertürkheim U4 Stadtmitte Charlottenplatz Olgaeck Schwab-/Bebelstr. Wimpfener Str. Millöckerstr. Schozacher Str. Vaihingen Schillerplatz U1 U3 U6 Vaihingen SSB-Zentum Rohr Jurastr. Mittnachstr. S2 Badstr. Sonnenberg Riedsee Waldau Wasenstr. Vaihinger Str. S4 S5 S6 Botnang Universität Hedelfingen U9 U13 Ruhbank 15 U14 Eugensplatz Heidehofstr.Marbach (N) S4 Bietigheim Brückenstr. Killesberg Löwen-Markt Renningen Milchhof Weil Messe Rastatter Str. Neckartor Schlossplatz Staatsgalerie Gerlingen Hölderlinplatz U6 2 Schloss-Johannesstr. Salzäcker Landhaus Ehningen Gärtringen Nufringen Leinfelden U5 Echterdingen Pleiningen U3 S1 Herrenberg Flughafen Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn 351 S3 Filderstadt S2 U1 2 U3 U4 U5 U6 U7 U8 U9 U13 U14 15 . Geroksruhe Steile Plochingen S1 U4 U9 Heslach Vogelrain Rathaus Österreichischer Platz Marienplatz Schreiberstr. Arndt-/Spittastr. Friedrich-List-Heim Kursaal Winterbach Beskidenstr. Heumaden S-Bahn S1 S2 S3 U-Bahn S4 S5 S6 Vaihingen Viadukt Fauststr. Vogelsang Herderplatz Feuersee Mercedesstr. Siegelstr. Wallgraben Rohrer Weg Möhringen Freibad Möhringen Bf U5 U6 U8 Ruit Zinsholz Parksiedlung Scharnhauser Park Kreuzbrunnen Techn. Silberwald Sillenbuch Schemppstr. Daimlerplatz Wilhelma Weiler Augsburger Platz Höhenstr. Borsigstr. Friedrichswahl Heutingsheimer Str. Maybachstr. Schwabstraße Dobelstr. Zuffenhausen Pragsattel Zahn-Nopper-Str. Mineralbäder Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion Metzstraße Karl-Olga Krankenhaus Bergfriedhof Raitelsberg Ostendplatz Schlachthof Tal-/Landhausstr. and Nuremberg Goldberg Böblingen Hulb Oberaichen Leinfelden Frank Nellingen Ostfildern U7 U8 Unteraichen Sigmaringer Str.

to 5 p. Kleiner Schlossplatz 1 (% 0711/216-2188. A must for anyone who has an interest in cars — vintage or otherwise — the Mercedes-Benz Museum. with works of the German expressionists Ernst Kirchner. open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. The new gallery houses the city’s collection of 19th. such as Paul Klee and Lyonel Feininger. is one of Stuttgart’s oldest standing structures. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). The new museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. 530). including the first motorcycle (built in 1885) and the first Mercedes (1902). a cafe open to the public. which opened in spring 2005. Admission is 3€ ($3. a large collection of Swabian sculptures. Art lovers will . admission is 5€ ($6. honors the invention of the motorcar by Carl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. to 6 p. The “New State Gallery.25) for students. In this section. the castle now houses a state museum tracing the art and culture of Swabia and Württemberg from the Stone Age to the present. Paul in Prison. 4€ ($5. the museum is a filigree glass cube surrounding a rough-hewn limestone inner core. to 5 p. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). Rebuilt after WWII. Picasso. and Max Beckmann.25) for adults.The museum.75) for adults. then follow signs to DaimlerChrysler Werk.m. the city’s finest art museum. The top floor.D. exhibits works spanning some 550 years. the Württemberg crown jewels (in the royal vault). provides a fabulous panoramic view of Stuttgart and its surrounding hills. first built as a moated castle in the 14th century and later redone in Renaissance style. and Monet. Some famous examples of European art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries also are exhibited.m. Designed by Berlin architects Hascher and Jehle. The museum moved to a new building in 2006.and 20th-century collection.and 20th-century works by artists from southern Germany. in addition to representatives of the Bauhaus school and Blue Rider group. Hans Memlings’s Bathsheba at her Bath. Highlights include Giovanni Bellini’s The Mourning of Christ. U-Bahn: Staatsgalerie). and treasures found in the tomb of a Celtic prince (circa A. 2€ ($2.352 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg (Old Castle and State Museum of Württemberg). charges 8€ ($10) for adults..m. is considered an icon of postmodern architecture. To reach it.m. Nearly 75 historical vehicles are shown. Schillerplatz 6 (% 0711/279-3400. Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 30–32 (% 0711/470-400. including works by Modigliani. Untertürkheim Tor 1 (about a 10minute walk). take S-Bahn line S1 to Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion. (Wed until 8 p. Ernst Barlach. 1€ ($1. and Rembrandt’s St. you find the 19th.m. You can see the highlights in an hour or so. It’s worth a trip to Stuttgart just to see the Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (Stuttgart Art Museum).m. You’ll see prehistoric stone sculptures.25) for students.50) for students. Mercedesstrasse 37.” designed by the British architect James Stirling and completed in 1984. The Neue Staatsgalerie (State Art Gallery).). Give yourself at least an hour here. the paintings by Otto Dix are particularly compelling (the museum has the most important Otto Dix collection in the world). you’ll enjoy every minute (free audio guides are available in English). Stuttgart-Cannstatt (% 0711/172-2578).

. Stuttgart.m. Walking through the estate you see houses created by architects such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (Am Weissenhof 14–29).75) children younger than 17. Tickets for all concerts are on sale at the tourist information office. To reach the Weissenhof Estate. take U-Bahn line 14 to the Wilhelma stop. the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday 2 to 6 p. lists all the happenings around Stuttgart. home to the Stuttgarter Philharmoniker and the Radio Symphony Orchestra. The magazine Lift. and Hans Scharoun (Hölzweg 1). Admission is 4. is home to the highly regarded Stuttgart Ballet and the Staatsoper (State Opera). Am Weissenhof 30 (% 0711/257-1434. Staatstheater (State Theater).Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Bad-Cannstatt (% 0711/54020).de). available at newsstands. (Thurs until 9 p.).000 animals and plants from around the world. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. or concert hall.” earlier in this section on Stuttgart).m. Many of the existing houses represent the functional style that was being promoted by the Bauhaus school of art and design. Classical and other concerts are given in the Liederhalle. Le Corbusier (Rathenaustrasse 1–3). The park was laid out in 1848 and contains a collection of historical buildings in the Moorish style. Schloss-Strasse (% 0711/2167110. Stuttgart performing arts Even if you’re staying in Heidelberg. call Anselm Vogt-Moykopf at % 0172/740-1138 (www. a housing estate built for a building exhibition in 1927. Stuttgart is so close (only 40 minutes by train) that you may want to consider spending an evening there at the ballet. take a taxi or the U-Bahn line 7 to the Killesberg-Messe stop and walk northeast around the Messe into the residential neighborhood. provide information about the project and the architects involved. (Nov–Feb until 4 p. and Sunday noon to 5 p.m. to 6 p. and Nuremberg 353 Classics of modernist architecture Architecture buffs will want to pay a visit to Weissenhofsiedlung (Weissenhof Estate). want to give themselves a couple of hours here. walking tours are available on Saturdays at 11 a. Displays in the small Architektur-Galerie.m.60) for adults. free on Wednesday. Neckartalstrasse. U-Bahn: Liederhalle/Berlinerplatz). opera. Home to more than 9. to 5 p. To get there. is the largest zoo and botanical garden in Europe.m. www.m.50€ ($5. free for children 13 and younger. For a private architectural tour by an English-speaking city guide/taxi driver.). 5.stadtrund fahrt-stuttgart.m.weissenhofgalerie. Oberer Schlossgarten (% 0711/ 20-20-90.m. Wilhelma.m.40€ ($ admission is 11€ ($13) adults. Listings of the various cultural events and tickets are available from the tourist office (see “Finding information and taking a tour.. The animal houses and greenhouses are open year-round from 8:15 a. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).

Dorotheenstrasse 4 (U-Bahn: Schlossplatz).) This strikingly attractive and lively city has about half a million residents. and its location at the crossroads of major trade routes. Nearly every German city has a restored Altstadt. including some of the finest Gothic and Renaissance churches in Germany. shoes. Hitler made Nuremberg the Nazi Party’s permanent convention and rally site. and most infamous. historic buildings. a small town 35km (21 miles) south of Stuttgart and easily accessible by train. Nuremberg made its second. After he seized power in 1933. mark on German history. After the war. 148km (92 miles) northwest of Munich. As a result. in Nuremberg. the historic center. In the postwar years. The city’s role as capital of the empire. sports equipment. “Nourenberc. But for a special shopping experience. is the home of Germany’s best and most numerous factory-outlet stores. In 300 years. no other German city. On and around Kanalstrasse. the Nazi war-crimes trials were held here. under Hitler. suffered such wartime devastation. the city’s architecture and previous role in the Holy Roman Empire represented the quintessence of Germany. . a cultural flowering made Nuremberg the center of the German Renaissance. (See the “Nuremberg” map in this chapter. During the 15th and 16th centuries. Serious shoppers. churches. head to the Markthalle (Market Hall). and more.” as the city originally was known. tableware. or meeting with the princes of the empire. many of Nuremberg’s most important buildings. with the exceptions of Dresden and Berlin. Spending a day or more exploring its streets. but few have been reborn with the kind of evocative grace and charm of Nuremberg. But the city fell into decline until. were restored or reconstructed in the Altstadt. To Hitler. made it one of the wealthiest and most important cities in medieval Germany.354 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Stuttgart You’ll find department stores and boutiques lining Königstrasse. right outside the main train station. you find a selection of international designer outlets selling clothing. convened by the International Military Tribunal. Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth Nuremberg (or Nürnberg in German) is located in Bavaria. take note: Metzingen. each newly elected emperor of the Holy Roman Empire had to convene his first Reichstag. dates back to about 1050. the city grew from a fortress and military base in eastern Franconia (a medieval duchy of south-central Germany) to a virtually self-governing Free Imperial City (Freie Reichsstadt). and museums definitely is worth it. From 1356 onward. an Art Nouveau building dating from 1914 and full of stalls selling local and foreign delicacies.

JOHANNIS 2 3 dSchil e gass Maxtor Lange G asse Hirschel gasse I n . www. Travel time from Frankfurt is about 2 hours. Stuttgart. Getting there You can easily reach Nuremberg by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe. The city’s Hauptbahnhof is within walking distance of all the major attractions. less than 5 hours. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. Johannis Friedhof Li n Joh an ng a 1 Pr Kleinweidenhle mühle Deuts Neutor ttorg rabe n Pegn iese itz l er w 4 5 6 AlbrechtDürer-Platz Theresiens. a ss to rg ra ras se hst eic Bl Gr il Sp itt ler A L T S T A D T 17 sse Brunnengasse Ma ri en to r 19 abe w ud Färbe Am Plärrer Ludwigstor t up ss Hastra sto e rgr tra igsJacobplatz L Spittlertor rstra Fürther Tor sse Fraue ngass e Ka b gas tharin gr a se enBlu Lor me enz nst er S ras tra se sse en rge be len be n Pegnitz Adlerstrasse Lauf r e rto Str 16 15 rgra be n chhe rrnstr asse e n - Lessingstrasse aben asse San dstr Hauptbahnhof Kö Frauentorgr nig ACCOMMODATIONS Burghotel Nürnberg 6 Dürer-Hotel 4 Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg 20 Romantik Hotel am Jusephsplatz 17 DINING Bratwurst-Häusle 12 Essigbrätlein 7 Goldenes Posthorn 10 Heilig-Geist-Spital 16 As you wander through the streets of this ancient capital of the Holy Roman Empire. l e rass Praterstrasse Beckschlage Wes Neue G.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. For information and schedules.-SebaldusBerlin Kirche 9 Frauenkirche 15 GERMANY Germanisches Nationalmuseum 18 Frankfurt Church Information i Hauptmarkt 14 Nuremberg Railway Kaiserburg 2 Munich Schöner Brunnen 11 s tr rien se as stra sse 20 B a h n h o f s t r a ss e 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters N . you find reminders of Nuremberg’s brightest t ers at rg. 9 10 7 Obstmarkt Burgs s se Ha b gr a en Tetze lga sse de trasse B nis urgschmiets trasse str ass e ST. L a uf e r g. and Nuremberg 355 Nuremberg St. 8 Karlstrasse i 11 12 13 Haupt-14 markt 21 Kö n ig LORENZ Kornmarkt 18 i Ma TAFELHOF ATTRACTIONS Schwurgerichtssaal 600 1 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus 3 Spielzeugmuseum 8 Altes Rathaus 13 St.-LorenzKirche 19 Dokumentationszentrum Hamburg Reichsparteitagsgelände 21 St. from Berlin. 1 hour 40 minutes. from Munich.

opposite the train station at Königstrasse 93 (% 0911/233-6132. To the north lies the The train departs from the fountain in the Hauptmarkt in front of the tourist office several times a day from 10:30 a. In 30 minutes. take the A9 Autobahn south. www. From April through October and on weekends in November and to 4 p. connections are available to Nuremberg’s small airport. and Sunday (May–Sept only) from 10 a. and 2 to 4 p. The tour includes a visit to the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). Although the Altstadt is larger than the historic centers in many other German cities.m. Buy your tickets from the tourist information office or from the guide. plus admission to the castle. You find historic sights both north and south of the river. An additional branch at Hauptmarkt 18 (% 0911/231-5555) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m.tourismus. from the tourist information office at the Hauptmarkt. take the A9 Autobahn north. Flughafen Nürnberg (% 0911/93700. one of the most successfully restored historic city centers in Germany. passing all the major sights on a 40-minute tour with commentary in German (English translations available). from Frankfurt.m.m. The small. The cost is 8€ ($10) adults.nuernberg.m.m. crowning the northern periphery is the Kaiserburg. from major German and European cities. all its sights are easily accessible on foot. Orienting yourself Nearly all that is of interest to the visitor is found in Nuremberg’s Altstadt.356 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For those traveling by plane. The Hauptbahnhof lies on the southern perimeter of the Altstadt. www.m. you can walk .airportnuernberg. Getting around Nuremberg Nuremberg’s Altstadt is almost entirely closed to traffic. A guided 21⁄2-hour walking tour of the city center in English departs daily (May–Oct and Nov 30–Jan 6) at 1 p. the old imperial castle. head southeast along the A3 Autobahn. and from Berlin. Cost is 5€ ($6. a small sightseeing train operated by Nürnberger Altstadtrundfahrten (% 0911/421-919) runs through the Altstadt. to 6 p.25) for adults. the city’s main market square. to 1 p. 2€ ($2.m. to 7 p. By car from Munich.m.50) for children. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. children younger than 14 free. 6km (4 miles) north of the city center. parts of which still remain and have rampart walks and gateway towers. the entire Altstadt lies within a double wall of medieval fortifications. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. picturesque Pegnitz River bisects the Altstadt. Roughly oval in shape.

You can enjoy your breakfast. The hotel is below the castle walls in one of the most historic parts of the old city. Fax: 0911/ 23-88-91-00. and buses. Neutormauer 32. The smallish tiled baths have showers (some have tub-shower combinations).com. Rates include buffet breakfast. Fax: 0911/ 2146-65555. V. Burghotel Nürnberg $ –$$$ Altstadt This reliable.altstadthotels. 355. 90403 Nürnberg. and Nuremberg 357 from the Hauptbahnhof to the Kaiserburg through the heart of the city’s medieval core and past most of the historic monuments. the only meal served. V. www. Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg $$$$ Altstadt At one time. 355. in a pretty room off the lobby. and close to all the major sightseeing attractions in the Altstadt. See map p. next to Albrecht Dürer’s house (see the “Exploring Nuremberg” section. tickets purchased on Saturday also are good all day Sunday. call the city’s transportation authority. DC. trams.50). AE. For a taxi. Mediumsized rooms done in pastel colors open onto the street or a back garden. Fares are based on zones. solid comfort in a great Altstadt location for a reasonable price. special weekend and summer rates.60€ ($4. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse to Lammsgasse). Nuremberg’s transportation system consists of a U-Bahn (subway).Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Buy your tickets from the machines in the U-Bahn stations. 46-room hotel provides good. Staying in Nuremberg See Chapter 22 for a listing of the charming Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz ($–$$$). Stuttgart. The easiest way to use the system is to buy a TagesTicket (day ticket) for 3. Bedrooms are compact and nicely furnished. Rates: 98€–175€ ($122–$187) double. The functional bathrooms are tiled and come with shower units. For more information. MC. AE. Dürer-Hotel $$ –$$$ Altstadt The 107-room Dürer stands beside the birthplace of its namesake. Lammsgasse 3. call % 0911/19410. DC. MC. % 0911/23-88-90. alongside the castle wall. VGN (% 0911/270-750). 90403 Nürnberg. See map p. They were always close to train stations (because that was how most people . Walking in the Altstadt is easier than using public transportation. Rates include continental breakfast. The ambience throughout is modern and pleasant. Rates: 135€–180€ ($169–$225) double.altstadthotels. you could find “grand” hotels like this all across Europe. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk southwest along the city wall). later in this chapter). % 0911/214-6650.

Sebald. three . AE. “Eins. Your bratwursts may come with sauerkraut or rye bread with very hot mustard. originally was a meeting place for wine merchants.–10:30 p. . or 12 pieces). marble-clad bathrooms. . people typically have up to 14 for lunch. You may hear the sausage seller in an open booth on the street shouting. a beer brewed locally since 1468. you can dine on a leafy outdoor terrace. In winter.S. The locals consider fewer than six bratwursts a snack. V.lemeridien. dating from 1550. DC. with many nouvelle recipes. Look for an ever-changing menu based on seasonal availability. Children under 12 stay free in their parents’ room and baby-sitting can be arranged.80€ ($ 7). The city is famous for its finger-size Rostbratwurst made of pork and various spices and then broiled on a charcoal grill. two. Fax: 0911/23-22-444.) and so on. and they were always the largest and most glamorous places to stay. The hungry consumer shouts back the number of bratwursts he wants. MC.m. Seasonal game and fish dishes also are staples in restaurants serving Franconian fare. Bahnhofstrasse 1–3.50–$13). Come to sample original Nürnberger Rostbratwurst (6. drei . zwei. or 0911/23220. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is directly across the street from the train station). served on pewter plates. and Canada. www. See map p.358 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany traveled). the largest in Nuremberg. AE. The traditional specialty is roast loin of beef marinated in vinegar (what the name of the . located opposite the Rathaus and close to the church of St. Rathausplatz 1. 10. Note: Those big. Bratwurst-Häusle $ FRANCONIAN The Bratwurst Häusle is the most famous bratwurst house in the city. See map p. wood-paneled dining room warms you. known for its hearty and relatively uncomplicated cuisine. Built before World War I. MC. The guest rooms. Dining in Nuremberg Nuremberg is in a region called Franconia.m. You can also get them to go (zum mitnehmen). % 0911/227-695. . 355. 8. 355. delicious-looking pretzels (Brezeln) on your table are not free. A good beer to go with your wursts is Lederer Pils. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (then a 5minute walk north on Königsttrasse to Rathausplatz). each one you eat goes on your bill and costs 5. Essigbrätlein $$$$ FRANCONIAN/CONTINENTAL The city’s most ancient restaurant. 90402 Nürnberg. the open grill in the rustic. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. in summer. this grand hotel escaped destruction in World War II and consequently still retains much of its unique Art Nouveau atmosphere and detailing. % 800/543-4300 in the U. Main courses: 6€–11€ ($ . Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is inventive and refreshing. V. Rates: 250€–390€ ($312–$487) double. have roomy.” (one.

V. Weinmarkt 3. Main courses: 7€–20€ ($8. V. MC. In season. The menu is limited to just a few dishes. Carp is a specialty. you can order leg of venison with noodles and berries.m. 355. V. Closed Jan 1–15 and 2 weeks in Aug (dates vary). Vegetarians can choose from vegetable lasagna or various salads. Heilig-Geist-Spital $ FRANCONIAN Nuremberg’s largest historic wine house. including vintages that date back to 1889.m. % 0911/225-131. when the tables fill up fast and everyone stays late. Goldenes Posthorn $$ –$$$ FRANCONIAN No other restaurant in Nuremberg can match the antique atmosphere of the Goldenes Posthorn. See map p. AE. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Winklerstrasse to Weinmarkt). Main courses: 10€–14€ ($13–$17). the restaurant’s kitchen still features such old-fashioned but satisfying Franconian dishes as quail stuffed with gooseliver and nuts. hearty and filling. Among its mementos is a drinking glass reputedly used by Albrecht Dürer. fresh carp (in winter). % 0911/221-761.75–$25). and Nuremberg 359 restaurant means in German). See map p. The restaurant has a fine wine list. DC. in business for 650 years. such as curried chicken on rice. Open: Daily 11 a. Kettensteg is a nice place to relax and have a good time. AE. talking and drinking and eating under the trees. and so are pork knuckle and sauerbraten. Glöckleingasse 2. The main dishes are typical Franconian fare. and wurst with a mixture of onions and vinegar. See map p. Main courses: 20€–28€ ($25–$35). and beer garden beside the river in a romantic corner of the Altstadt is a real scene on warm evenings. Reservations required. venison in red wine with plums. Stuttgart.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Tues–Sat 7–9:30 p. You’ll want to dress up a bit if you’re going to dine here. with more than 100 vintages. bar. 355. MC. . Spitalgasse 16.m.. Fixed-price meals: 38€–42€ ($47–$52) lunch. 65€–79€ ($81–$99) dinner. Bus: 36 to Burgstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Glöckleingasse). which claims to be in the oldest house in Germany.m. DC. AE.m. and bratwursts. spans the Pegnitz River and is an atmospheric spot to dine. Bus: 46 or 47 to Spitalgasse. Reservations recommended. 20€–42€ ($25–$52) dinner. The wine list is abundant and excellent. and 6–11:30 p. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 1:30 p. to midnight. DC. Kettensteg $ FRANCONIAN/INTERNATIONAL This restaurant. Fixed-price meals: 17€ ($21) lunch. Although the atmosphere has become more casual and touristy in recent years. % 0911/225-153. MC. Wiener Schnitzel with french fries. 355. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p.

10). % 0911/13310. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Albrecht Dürer House) Albrecht Dürer. The collection covers the entire spectrum of German craftsmanship and fine arts from their beginnings to the present day. 2. so you need to choose your areas of interest and consult the galleries’ map frequently. Everyday life in Germany through the ages is documented with domestic furnishings. This is an exhaustive and exhausting place. See map p. Bus: 36 to Maxplatz. 355. the structure has a first floor of sandstone surmounted by two half-timbered stories and a gabled roof.m. and 6–11:30 p.D.). it’s the only completely preserved Gothic house left in Nuremberg. and you need to give yourself at least two hours to see it.–5 p. dollhouses. Tours: Guided tours in English Sat 2 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. 355. Tues–Sun 10 a. The prehistoric and early historical sections contain finds from the Stone Age and from the burial sites of the Merovingians (a Frankish dynasty ruling from about A.–2:30 p.–11 p. as is a self-portrait by Rembrandt. (Thurs until 8 p.). historic musical instruments. and the healing arts. It’s a huge place and not laid out in an intuitive way. Admission: 5€ ($6. Kartäusergasse 1. Typical of the well-to-do burghers’ houses of the 15th century..50€ ($3. nearly all of which are found in the Altstadt. Built in 1420.m. .360 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Maxplatz 35.–5 p.m. a sculptor and woodcarver known for his “nervous” angular forms and realism. % 0911/221-081. % 0911/231-2568. tours 2.. Open: Summer daily 11 a. The world’s first globe. Exhibits inside the house are devoted to Dürer’s life and works.–6 p. lived in this house from 1509 to 1528. U-Bahn: Opernhaus (then a 3minute walk north on Kartäusergasse). created by Martin Behaim. Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum) Germany’s largest and most important museum of German art and culture is the one must-see museum in Nuremberg.25) adults.m. No credit cards. so walking is a pleasure.m. one of the great German artists of the Renaissance. Most of the historic core is for pedestrians only.m.m. is on display. The extensive painting and sculpture sections include works by Renaissance greats Albrecht Dürer and Veit Stoss. 500 to 750). Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39.m. (Wed until 9 p.m. and copies of Dürer’s paintings.m. Main courses: 8€–13€ ($10–$16).25) adults. Furnishings in many of the rooms are important historical pieces. Admission: 5€ ($6.m.10) students and children ages 6 through 15.m. winter daily 11 a.m. original etchings and woodcuts. folk objects. weapons. Open: Mon (July–Sept only) 10 a.m. 4€ ($4) children and students. Exploring Nuremberg You need at least one full day to explore the main attractions of Nuremberg.50€ ($3. See map p. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 3-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse).

In the northwest corner stands the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain). and explains the history of the castle.m.. now a youth hostel. The oldest part of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall).m.–6 p. and toys — both hand. the great Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) on the ground floor and the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) on the second floor look much as they did when King Frederick III rebuilt them in the 15th century. every day at noon. open Mon–Sat 9 a. Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) Nuremberg is a major toy center. on the eastern edge of the square. armor. the massive bastions of the fortress. free for children 16 and younger. The 14th-century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady.–6 p. With their heavy oak beams and painted ceilings. Admission: 5€ ($6.. on Rathausplatz just off the market square. was the official residence of the German kings and emperors from 1050 to 1571.m. See map p. 4€ ($5) students. figures of the seven electors appear and pay homage to Emperor Karl IV.– 4 p. and vegetables. The council of Nuremberg erected another set of buildings in the 14th and 15th centuries when its responsibilities expanded to include the protection of the emperor. and Nuremberg Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square) 361 The cobblestoned Hauptmarkt. % 0911/206-560.m. Most of the buildings were constructed during the 12th century. who lived in the inner core of the castle complex. The new buildings include the Kaiserstallung (Emperor’s Stables). a later section. The oldest portion.Chapter 18: Heidelberg.) pyramid-shaped stone fountain from 1396. looming above the city from its hilltop at the northern edge of the Altstadt.). Filled with stalls selling fresh flowers. % 0911/2446590. fruits. Burgstrasse. the Hauptmarkt is the most colorful square in the city. and the castle gardens. completed in 1622.m. is Nuremberg’s geographic and symbolic heart. Some date from medieval . Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 10-minute walk north following signs). Stuttgart.25) adults. marks the architectural transition from Renaissance to baroque style. has been in ruins since a fire destroyed it in 1420. 355. Open: Apr–Sept daily 9 a. Watchmen and guards used the ramparts with their parapet walks and secret passages to protect the kings and emperors. just north of the Pegnitz River at the northern end of Königstrasse. The Kaiserburg Museum (% 0911/2009540) contains antique weaponry. The rooms are decorated with period Gothic furnishings. has on its facade a gilded 16th-century mechanical clock called the Männleinlaufen (a hard-to-translate word meaning “little men running”). A fine view of the roofs and towers of Nuremberg can be seen from its terraces.m. the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well).m. Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) The Kaiserburg.and machinemade — fill all three floors of this museum. Oct–Mar daily 10 a. an 18m-high (60-ft. Allot at least an hour to explore the various nooks and crannies of the castle. the 11th-century Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower). Sun 12:30–6 p. and paintings. dates from 1340.

The St. Twin towers flank the west portal with its sculptures depicting the theme of redemption. hangs over the entrance to the choir.m. including Barbie dolls and LEGO blocks. a stone tabernacle by Adam Krafft (1496) presents likenesses of the sculptor and two apprentices.m. A glass corridor now pierces the upper level of Speer’s Congress Hall. Albert Speer. You don’t have to be a kid. 21 of the surviving leaders of the Third Reich stood trial in November 1945 for crimes against humanity.m.m.10) students and children. Saturday and Sunday 10 a. draw.–5 p.–6 p. The corridor houses an exhibition that chronicles the ruthless misuse of power under National Socialism. Admission is 2. ten were hanged. See map p..362 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Judgment at Nuremberg If you’re interested in a famous landmark of WWII. % 0911/231-3164. or do crafts in a supervised playroom. and a magnificent stained-glass rosette window glows above the organ at the west end. . Kids can play with toys.. a specially remodeled courtroom. and. Bayernstrasse 110 (% 0911/ 231-5666). and model railways and other miniature vehicles. the 5€ ($6. In November 2001. from Adam and Eve through the Last Judgment. Lawrence) The largest and most beautiful Gothic church in Nuremberg rises above Lorenzerplatz. times.. Objects on the top floor illustrate the history of toys since 1945.m. soaring pillars adorned with expressive Gothic sculptures line the nave. so tours (in German only) are available only on Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 4 p. Karlstrasse 13–15. The building still serves as a courthouse.50€ ($3. Exhibits include a large collection of dolls and old dollhouses. 2.-Lorenze-Kirche was begun in 1270 and took more than 200 years to complete. to 6 p. reopened as the new Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds). more if you have kids in tow. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. carved in linden wood by Veit Stoss. To reach the center. St. though. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Augustinerstrasse and north on Karlstrasse). the huge Congress Hall designed by Hitler’s architect. 355. Afterward. optical toys (such as peep shows. which is larger than the Colosseum in Rome. U-Bahn: Bärenschanze).m. to enjoy this acclaimed museum. I strongly recommend a visit here because it provides a chronological overview of the rise of Nazism and its subsequent horrors in a compelling format.-Lorenz-Kirche (Church of St. Sat–Sun 10 a. and stereoscopes). or 65 to the Docu-Zentrum stop. in room 600. Give yourself at least an hour. The center is open Monday through Friday 9 a. to 6 p. 55.m. visit the Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (International Military Tribunal). Fürther Strasse 110 (% 0911/231-5421.25) admission includes an audio guide. Admission: 5€ ($6. where the Nuremberg Trials took place.m. to the left of the altar.50€ ($3).m.25) adults. Here. Inside. The church contains two more remarkable works: The Angelic Salutation (1519). magic lanterns. take Tram 6 or 9 or Bus 36.

m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof) is an enclave of halftimbered shops and stalls where artisans create and sell a wide range of handicrafts (along with touristy souvenirs). is a theater complex offering productions of drama (in the Schauspielhaus) and opera (in the Opernhaus). See map p.. Rathausplatz 7 (% 0911/204-848.m. Nuremberg’s Hauptmarkt becomes the setting for the Christkindlmarkt. % 0911/209-287. An artists’ hangout. The shops are open weekdays (and Sun in Dec) from 10 a. Kaiserstrasse 1–9 (% 0911/235-5075. Admission: Free.-Sebaldus-Kirche Consecrated in 1273. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit). The nave and west choir are Romanesque.m. Between the two east pillars is a 16thcentury Crucifixion group dominated by a life-size Crucifix by Veit Stoss. and puppet groups occur daily. Karl-Griolenberger-Strasse 28 (% 0911/ 223-041. handicrafts.m.m. The square is especially beautiful at night.m. Bus: 36). 355..m. Lebkuchen (see the sidebar “Love that Lebkuchen”). fruitcakes. U-Bahn: Weisser Turm). to 4 p. the Handwerkerhof (Craftsmen’s Courtyard. the oldest Christmas fair in Germany. when all the surrounding buildings are floodlit. has classic and collectible Steiff bears for 90€ to 140€ ($112–$175). tinsel. U-Bahn: Lorenzerkirche).m. Sun 1–4 p.m. is Gothic. St.m. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. opens early for big breakfasts (served all day) that run from 4€ to 18€ ($5–$22) and offers soup. and Glühwein (hot red wine spiced with cloves and cinnamon). Performances by singers and musicians. to 6:30 p. Admission: Free.–6 p. Triebhaus. Richard-Wagner-Platz 2–10 (% 0911/231-3808.m. salad. June–Sept daily 9:30 a. From Advent Sunday to December 24. and Saturday from 10 a. Lorenzer Platz 10. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit the station). dance.m. and . Oct–Feb daily 9 a. Hofman. and theater.–4 p. the larger east choir. Shopping in Nuremberg Located across from the railway station. The Christmas fair transforms Hauptmarkt into a small town of wood-and-cloth stalls selling tree ornaments.m. Sebalderplatz. this church dedicated to Nuremberg’s patron saint represents the stylistic transition from late Romanesque to early Gothic styles.. Tickets range from 8€ to 50€ ($10–$63). and Nuremberg 363 See map p.–5 p. Living it up after dark in Nuremberg The Städtische Bühnen (State Theaters). held here for some 400 years. % 0911/214-2516.. Open: Mar–May daily 9:30 a. sells painted tin figures of soldiers and Christmas decorations.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. candies. U-Bahn: Opernhaus). 355. Stuttgart.–8 p. consecrated in 1379. Steiff Galerie.

60–$8. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.50) until 10:30 p. Café Ruhestörung. Sandwiches and light meals cost 4. Zollhausstrasse 30 (% 0911/89660. Lebkuchen makes a great. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche).75).m. sells Lebkuchen packed in containers that look like half-timbered German houses. to 1 a. to 1 a.m. While jealously guarding their recipes.lebkuchenschmidt. and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. has a pleasant patio where you can order a drink or a sandwich.m.50€ to 6€ ($5. many places make and sell Lebkuchen in several different forms. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche).364 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Love that Lebkuchen Lebkuchen (layb-koo-kin) is to Nuremberg what Marzipan is to Lübeck.60–$7. to 1 a. Lebkuchen Frauenholz. The city’s been the capital of Lebkuchen since the early 15th century. Bergstrasse 1 (% 0911/243-464. Many consider Lebkuchen Schmidt. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. .com).m. to 1 a. to be the best Lebkuchen store in Nuremberg.m.m. sandwich specials from 4. These delicious honey-andspice cakes evolved into their round shape in Nuremberg.50€ to 7€ ($5. inexpensive gift.m.m.m. Tetzelgasse 21 (% 0911/221-921. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. www.

From Cologne. the Rhineland’s largest and most important city. The Rhine also is at the musical heart of Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen. medieval towns. Some 1. the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world. north. Sitting right on the river. Transformed into a siren. who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles. and forms Germany’s southwestern boundary as it continues west. you can drive into the Rheingau. and northwest to the North Sea. so the story goes. flows through the Bodensee (Lake Constance. see Chapter 17). Through the centuries.) In this chapter. The Rhineland. a lovely winegrowing section of the . the most famous being the one attached to a high rock called the Lorelei (also spelled Loreley) towering above the town of St. she sat on the rock combing her long. the Rhine has inspired many legends. the area along the river’s west bank. and vineyard-covered slopes. km (9. I give most of the coverage to Cologne. blonde hair and taking out her revenge by luring fishermen and ship captains to their destruction. Lorelei. encompasses roughly 23. Goarshausen.320km (820 miles) long. the river originates in southeastern Switzerland. (See “The Rhineland” map in this chapter.Chapter 19 Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the Rhine-side city of Cologne ᮣ Enjoying a boat trip on the Rhine ᮣ Exploring the warm wine country of the Rheingau ᮣ Taking in the scenery of the lovely Mosel Valley T he Rhine (spelled Rhein in German) is one of the world’s great rivers. was a beautiful young woman who threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover.000 sq. this city makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland. For about two centuries now. miles) and is a treasure-trove for tourists.000 sq.

visitors and citizens alike stroll along the Rhine promenades and flock to outdoor taverns and restaurants to enjoy the pleasures of a Kölsch. Ancient traditions are annually renewed in the city’s raucous pre-Lenten Carnival (called Fasching). or a boisterous outdoor concert in the Rheinpark. The range of its museums and the quality of their collections make Cologne one of the outstanding museum cities of Germany. is likewise a vital component of life here. when Roman legions set up camp here. You can see Roman ruins in an underground parking garage. And although not as grand and legend-filled as the Rhine. Music. the city boasts 12 major Romanesque churches. and a humble Romanesque church wedged in among luxury shops. or trade-fair grounds. I describe the highlights of all these side trips later in this chapter. 50. The city also is famous as the birthplace of eau de Cologne. When the weather turns warm. the Mosel Valley. In addition to its substantial Roman legacy.C. covered with meticulously tended vineyards. Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine Visitors to this lively metropolis on the Rhine. car. whether it’s a symphony concert in the modern philharmonic hall. Cologne’s unique and delicious beer. and general delirium. and getting there is easy by train. is also worth exploring. Germany’s fourth-largest and oldest city. Older than the cathedral. the emperor Claudius gave the city municipal rights as capital of a Roman province. or plane. you can traverse 2. Getting there Cologne is one of the major cities in western Germany. On a ten-minute walk in Cologne. a time of masked balls. are immediately struck by Cologne’s cheek-by-jowl juxtaposition of the very old with the very new. an opera at the highly regarded opera house. The Kölner themselves are refreshingly relaxed and down-to-earth in how they enjoy their city. a dizzyingly ornate Gothic cathedral beside a modern museum complex. Cologne — spelled Köln in Germany and pronounced koeln — offers far more than just Germany’s largest cathedral. Every year they welcome millions of visitors.000 years of history.D. and a substantial meal of typical Rhineland cuisine. As early as A. the churches drew medieval pilgrims from all across Europe to “Holy Cologne. Cologne traces its beginnings to 38 B.. .366 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. parades.” one of the most important pilgrimage cities in medieval Christendom. many of whom come to attend the giant international trade fairs held in the Köln Messe.

is located 14km (9 miles) southeast of the city. www. Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn (% 02203/ 40-40-01. The trip takes 20 minutes. The fastest and simplest way to get into the city is by taking an S-Bahn train (S-13) from the new airport train station directly to the Cologne main train 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 367 The Rhineland Rh A57 A31 A3 A43 A1 Hamm A2 A44 7 0 0 64 55 30 mi Paderborn N 30 km in e 68 Herne NETHERLANDS Duisburg Essen A2 Dortmund Hamburg 7 A44 7 Mönchengladbach Hochneukirch A61 A4 Düsseldorf A46 A1 Wuppertal A45 55 ANY R MBerlin GE Bonn Area of detail Frankfurt 252 am Main A44 Cologne (Köln) A4 Siegen 62 Munich 3 Aachen Bonn Bad Godesberg A1 258 Marburg A45 A3 3 Alsfeld A5 A61 255 42 54 Giessen Wetzlar 49 Rh in e BELGIUM 9 Koblenz A3 A27 A5 A45 Daun A48 A61 54 Gelnhausen ose A1 327 Wiesbaden Rüdesheim Frankfurt am Main A3 M l Assmannshausen Bingen 50 Bitburg Mainz Aschaffenburg Rh i Bad Kreuznach LUXEMBOURG Trier Luxembourg A1 41 A63 A61 Darmstadt A5 A67 M a in ne Idar-Oberstein 271 Bockenheim Grünstadt Neuleiningen A6 9 Worms 469 A62 Mannheim Ne Kaiserslautern A8 A6 A62 Ludwigshafen Speyer 10 ckar 27 Heidelberg A6 A65 9 Saarbrücken Metz F R A N C E A5 Heilbronn Karlsruhe By plane Cologne’s airport.m. Direct flights arrive from most major European cities. to nearly 2 a. A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 25€ ($31).airport-cgn. .75). the fare is 3€ ($3. It runs from 5 a.

costs 8€ ($10) and enables you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network (but the Cologne Welcome Card. good for a single one-way fare within the inner city is 1. A CityTicket. and information on city attractions. is called Deutz. and Sunday 10 a. The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is in the heart of the By car Cologne is easily reached from major German cities. www. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).) The center of the Altstadt is the Innenstadt (Inner City). tram. The city’s early industrial plants were concentrated in Deutz.m. The office has city Unter Fettenhennen 19 (% 0221/221-30400.” later in this chapter.368 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany By train Cologne is a major rail hub. are located in the Altstadt (Old Town). while the A4 Autobahn travels east and west.m. next to the cathedral. Getting around The compact and pedestrian-friendly Altstadt. the restored and much altered medieval core of the city.bahn. The ring road and a greenbelt in the southwest (the location of the university) girdle Neustadt. The office is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. Getting oriented The major sights of Cologne.m. and many of them are still there. to 8 p.m. The Altstadt spreads in a semicircle west from the Rhine to a ring road that follows the line of the 12th-century city walls (demolished. a room-rental service (3€/$3. so reaching the city from anywhere in Germany or the rest of Europe is easy. is a . described under “Exploring Cologne. the historical heart of Cologne. Deutz is where you find the Köln Messe (trade-fair grounds) and the Rhinepark. Besides providing the best views of the cathedral-dominated Cologne skyline. Finding information The Köln Tourismus Office. Frankfurt (trip time: 21⁄2 hours). on the Rhine’s east bank. For train information and The area across the river. 0. is easily explored on foot. U-Bahn (subway). except for three gateways. including the mighty cathedral and the most important museums. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. Frequent daily trains arrive from Berlin (trip time: 51⁄2 hours). in the 19th century). where the Romans built their first walled colony. where you find the cathedral and most of the major attractions. The A3 Autobahn connects the city to the north and south.75€ ($1) for children. is located just a few steps from the cathedral. and Hamburg (trip time: 41⁄2 hours). the Kölner Tageskarte. and S-Bahn (light-rail) system. A day ticket. The city also has an excellent bus. to 5 p. (See the “Cologne” map in this chapter. the “new” part of town dating from the 19th century.50€ ($2) for adults.

3 3 Go Haupt.P rb e g th erl Ro en bach gra b ba Mü Waidmarkt str . Alten Uf er Konrad . Zeu g haus rgmauer Bu . Mauri tiusste Neumarkt Gürzenichstr. 15 Sa 16 16 Deutzer Brüc ke Mittelstrasse Rudolfplatz SchilderCäcilien- gasse Nordt Süd Fahr Hahnenstr. i n er gu st Au Pipi nstr. str. iden ga sse us ALTSTADT-S ALTSTADT-SÜD V Sieb or den en b u rg en us er- rge ga s se ergLandsb e strass asse nstr Rose Hamburg Berlin en-e Bay ass str e bu GERMANY Cologne r- W .25 mi 0. Friesen. Agripp Ro on h str bac as se r. astr. s en - Köln Messe e r n -Str Auf dem Berlich senstr. i 9 8 Hohe Strasse Hohenzollernbrücke 4 5 Am Ho f INNENSTADT 6 7 Frankenverft 2 DEUTZ S tr . ALTSTADT-NORD M a r zellens t r .Ma Frie gnu sstra sse platz Hohenzol lernFriesenwall ring s t r. ach nb h le Fitzengraben Ja hn auRhein strasse ch n e R h i strasse Severi nsbrück e en ass Am ais el- str en os ha M xem U llr Bus Ka Lo th rin Sa ge rS Lu rtä se chg ich Barbarossaplatz Sa lie rri Bu ng rg un str de as se rs tr. ch sse Vo tra tra NEUSTADT Eif rte n VOLKSGARTEN str.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 369 Cologne 0 0 0. Mindener s s t ras s e St ras s e Minoritenstrasse Fischmarkt rger Habsbug rin Ei fe Am Leystapel - Mau ritius wall ng l lner Neukö e Strass Hohe nstau in w fenri eg Holz- TelAviv -Str asse Severin strasse markt r lsbe be Ga gerstrasse l al lw . n - 14 Alter Markt 11 lzg. erst Neue W ey We sse kt G r o n ma r ch e G ri e au Bl er. Johan nisstr. Frankfurt Munich wall erin Sev sUbie rrin g els ACCOMMODATIONS Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Excelsior Hotel Ernst 3 Hotel Engelbertz 11 Hyatt Regency Köln 2 Senats Hotel 14 DINING Bräuhaus Sion 7 Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Früh am Dom 8 Hanse Stube 3 Sünner im Walfisch 15 Taku 3 ATTRACTIONS Dom 4 4711 Haus 10 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 9 Museum Ludwig 6 Kölner-Seilbahn 1 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 5 Schnütgen Museum 12 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 13 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn i Siegburger Str. Thieboldgasse 12 LeonhardTietz-Str. r- Tanzbrunnen n imi M ax t r . lks sse ga rin ll K a r tä use Eifelplatz n- wa g f rho D r eik ö n i g ens t r.25 km Uf e M Turiner Wi Kai lhe ser lm -Ri ng Tunisstrasse Mohrenstrasse Am Gereonshof Gere onst r. e Ur s u las Machab äerst ras se de n a ue Ha a ns rin g s cht Eigelstein b ay ac Strasse Domstrasse Dagobertst rasse R h i n e N r tr hs as se Ha g rin nsa nso re Ge wall Thürmchenswall 1 RHEINPARK tr.-A p Richmodstr. St. 13 Heumarkt Fleischme ngerg.gasslde bahnhof Kennedy-Ufer Ch rist str oph. V ictori astrass tr. E hr e n s t r a s se Br e i t e T u ni 10 Brüc ke str .A Gl Erftstrasse ad Strenba ass ch e er ll tra wa Ein ns reo e G Kyotostr.

call Taxi-Ruf at % 0221/19410. you climb up a curving. The city buzzes with masked balls.50€ ($2) per kilometer thereafter. better deal because it includes public transportation and free or reduced-price entry to museums and other attractions). From the wine restaurant on the ground floor (see “Dining in Cologne. Rates include buffet breakfast. Fischmarkt 1–3. % 0221/ Be sure to validate your ticket. Hotel Engelbertz $ Altstadt This modest. cheery. the city’s “fifth season. Ten units come with a small. 90€–108€ ($112–$135) double with bathroom.25) if you hail a taxi from the street. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). some rooms have beamed ceilings.” later in this chapter).” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events in Germany. family-run hotel is in a central location close to everything in the Altstadt. 50667 Köln. right on the Rhine in the busiest section of the Altstadt. call VRS at % 01803/504-030. For information about public transportation. or at the stations. parades. www. Rates: 64€–85€ ($80–$106) double without bathroom. Excelsior Hotel Ernst ($$$$). and modern. To order a taxi.50€ ($3). all with small bathrooms that have a tub or shower. The season officially lasts from New Year’s Eve to Ash wooden staircase (or take the elevator) to your room. the fare rises 1.370 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Celebrating carnival in Cologne Cologne’s Carnival. plus 1€ ($1. and general delirium. Taxi meters start at 2. The hotel has 40 rooms. 369. tiled bathroom with shower. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt The two town houses that make up this hotel stand on a corner of a historic square. Staying in Cologne Also see Chapter 22 for details on Cologne’s premier hotel. Purchase tickets from the automated machines (labeled Fahrscheine). Natives call this citywide celebration Fasteleer or Fastelovend. The decoration throughout is light. The 31 rooms are fairly basic but comfortable and not lacking in a kind of old-fashioned charm. See map p. validation machines are in stations and on buses. . Fax: 0221/257-4232. from bus drivers.

Moltke-str. Mommsen-str. K-Deutz Dom/Hbf Christophstr./ M e Eu Clar Gürtel ter l A Brahmsstr. Bottensternstr. Severinstr. Waldecker Str./ Ulreporte Lindenburg Ubierring Eifelwall Haus Vorst Westhoven Gürtel Weißhausstr. Sülz Hermeskeller Platz Sülzgürtel 8 Porz Markt Gürtel Siegstr. K-Blumenberg 5 Odenthaler Str. Str. Lohsestr. platz Escher Str. Altonaer Platz 6 12 Longerich Friedhof Meerfeldstr. Leuchterstr. au nfo M be er Fr ch pe pp im rS e th rS ek nw en ba ück sthe he Ka ldae Ho ue ölne fra Kipp rank r öh Kalk Mer Fieh u e lk e m u B I L a H R F N F K K 1 Bensberg . Schönhauser Str. 9 Gottesweg Klettenbergpark Michaelshoven Rosenhügel Kalscheurer Weg 19 Sürth Efferen Zollstockgürtel Godorf Zündorf Kiebitzweg 7 Wesseling Nord Hürth-Hermülheim Zollstock Südfriedhof Wesseling Fischenich 12 Brühl-Vochem Wesseling Süd Brühl Nord Urfeld Brühl Mitte Brühl Süd Widdig Brühl-Badorf Uedorf Brühl-Schwadorf Hersel Walberberg Merten 18 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn 371 Sankt Augustin Ort . u Ne Bocklemünd 17 Thielenbruch 18 19 Breslauer Platz / Hbf Koelnmesse Osthallen Wilhelm-Sollmann-Str. K Hansaring K Ehrenfeld K-Müngersdorf / Technologiepark Venicer Str. 19 Heimersdorf Longericher Herforder Str. Neumarkt Weyertal 15 Baumschulenweg Mersdorf Universität 6 Kölner Str. Gürtel Stüttgenhof 8 Poll Salmstr. Maria Himmelfahrt Str. Keupstr. eg tr. 17 Buchheim Frankfurter Str. Am Emberg K-Worringen K-Chorweiler Nord 6 15 K-Chorweiler Chorweiler 7 K Volkhovener Weg 8 Niehl Mülheim Berliner Str. Zülpicher Str. 18 K-Longerich 9 Scheibenstr./Gürtel Slabystr. Str./ Rodenkirchen Herthastr./ Piusstr. weg rsdo nerg Str.S-Bahn Langenfeld LEV-Rheindorf 12 Merkenich 1 Nievenheim 3 LEV-Küppersteg Schiebusch LEV Mitte Bayerwerk K-Stammheim Bergisch Gladbach K-Dellbrück K-Holweide Duckterath 13 4 Dormagen Dormagen Bayerwek 4 Merkenich Mitte Fordwerke Nord Fordwerke Mitte Fordwerke Süd Geestemünder Str. Takuplatz Platz K-Mülheim Zoo / Flora LenauAkazienweg K-Nippes Grünstr./Gürtel n e s n e e n Aachener Str. d pfa tst r. 3 13 Mengenich Oflenhauerring 5 Ossendorf 15 e feld k üc M k üc rS s au up Ha tr. tr rS th Ra - FrechenKönigsdorf Appeilhofplatz Heumarkt Suevenstr. Reichenspergerplatz Außere Kanalstr. Sülzburgstr./ Mediapark Körnerstr. Str ter r fu nk f mp fad n Fra dho . Eifelstr. Dasselstr. Ensen Arnulfstr./Gürtel Leyendeckerstr. Os Au to th eim hn ba Ste e inw Köln Hbf g Po rze Bf Deutz / Messe r r llb llb De De . horrem Sindorf 1 Weinsbergstr. W Ba M Ju Rh Bf Deutz / DeutzKölnarena Kalker Bad Deutzer Freiheit u He Weiden Schulstr. Im Weidenbruch 16 Niehl Sebastianstr. Porz Porz-Wahn Spich Troisdorf Köln / Bonn Flughafen c Fre Siegburg He nn ef en nk Bla bu rg M e art n o Eit rf n ld rn h he nfe de ac rsc tte sb Au (Sieg) hla He Da Sc Ro Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Sankt Augustin-Mülldorf Sankt Augustin Markt Sankt Augustin Kloster Buschdorf 16 Severinsbrücke Drehbrücke Zülpicher Platz Poller Kirchweg Gleuser Str. Porz Steinstr. Wolffsohnstr. Holweide Vischering Str. Mauritluskirche Buir Merzenich K Frankfurter Str. Westfriedhof Mülheim Iltisstr. Gutenbergstr. Gilgaustr. n Gürtel dio m Sta Hans-Böckler-Platz ru Oskar-Jägarie nt rf Bf West Friesenplatz Ze tr. Bayenhalgürtel Frechen Bahnhof Eifelplatz Chlodwigplatz Kloster Heinrich-Lübke-Ufer Euskirchener Str. sp ka se rst ie rg str en au ide lle tr. Wiener Florastr. Von-Sparr-Str. Berliner Str./ Rektor-Klein-Str./ oh nk ein eid h Maarweg Gürtel Universitäts-str. Nesselrodestr. Düren g ift r. Wichheimer Str. r g ma swe en ttg Rö Königsforst 9 Melaten Wüllner-str. Mollwitzstr./Gürtel Liebigstr. rin r St chst är e ilit pen nba Dürener Str. / Gürtel K Geldernstr. Parkgürtel Kinderkrankenhaus Margaretastr./Bf Süd 17 Raiffeisenstr. 3 Schaffrathsgasse 4 16 Buchheim Herfer Str. Frechen-Benzeirath K Airport Businesspark 7 se as M g len üh Fre e ch nR at u ha s nK he irc he K Steinstr. Stegerwaldsiedlung Ebertplatz Subbelrather Str. Pohligstr. Amsterdamer Neusser Str. K-Buchforst Nußbaumerstr. K-Lövenich Kalk Post K Trimbornstr. Berrenrather Str.

369. See map p. The hotel has a nice ambience throughout. Rates: 160€–375€ ($200–$469) double.regency. Tatar (finely minced raw beef mixed with egg yolk. Dining in Cologne Although several highly rated restaurants have established themselves here in recent years. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Gürzenichstrasse. Rates include breakfast. DC. Rates: 100€ ($125) double. Fax: 0221/828-1370. 369. visit one of the city’s old tavernrestaurants (see listings for Früh am Dom and Bräuhaus Sion. Hämchen (cured pork knuckle cooked in vegetable broth). www. 50667 Köln. www. Hyatt Regency Köln $$ –$$$$ Deutz Located in Deutz. See map p. Local dishes at these and other nongourmet restaurants generally include Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese).hotel-engelbertz. and east on Obenmarspforten). Rates: 120€–245€ ($150– $306) V. % 0221/20620. % 0180/523-1234 or 0221/ 828-1234. and spices and served on bread or a roll).de. sauna. it’s a place for conversation and drinking. 50667 Köln. Fax: 0221/ 206-2200. MC. modern style. and steam room. Bathrooms have deep tubs with showers.senats-hotel. Senats Hotel $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. onions. V. Many have views of the Rhine and the cathedral on the other side. Rates include buffet Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. AE. AE. 369. Unter Goldschmied 9–17. Matjesfilet mit grünen Bohnen (pickled white herring served with green butter beans and potatoes). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across the bridge). Rather. Kennedy-ufer 2A. Bathrooms are on the small side but vary according to the room. this modern full-service hotel features a dramatic lobby with a waterfall and a glamorous overall ambience. Obenmarspforten 1–3. Fax: 0221/ 257-8924. % 0221/257-8994. The Hyatt has fine restaurants and a fitness center with a pool. 50679 Köln-Deutz. generally over enormous portions of typical Rhineland fare in crowded restaurants that are gemütlich (cozy) rather than elegant. www. To eat and drink as the Kölner do. Himmel und Äd (apples and . The furnishings in the 59 rooms have a comfortable. AE. V. later in this section). Kölsch Kaviar (smoked blood sausage served with raw onion rings).de. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across Roncalliplatz and south on Unter Goldschmied). stylish hotel with its bright-yellow lobby is located in the heart of the Altstadt. north on Hohe Strasse. MC. MC. a five-minute walk across the Rhine from the train station. Cologne is not a city particularly known for its gourmet dining. The 305 rooms are comfortably large and stylishly furnished.

see “Staying in Cologne” earlier in this chapter) opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine. raisins. Open: Daily 11 a. a double with bathroom and breakfast goes for 60€ ($ 75). Bräuhaus Sion $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN If you want a traditional local Bräuhaus where the beer is good. V. MC.or oven-roasted marinated beef) with an almond-raisin sauce. and Speckpfannekuchen (pancakes fried in smoked bacon fat). Main courses 9€–16€ ($11–$20).m.m. Kölsch has an alcohol content of about 3 percent (most other types of German beer have an alcohol content ranging from 4 percent to 6 percent). No credit cards.m. and the food portions inexpensive and generous. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This popular wine restaurant (and hotel. and potato dumplings. The menu also includes vegetarian and pasta dishes. The main courses are traditional and filling Rhineland fare. Reservations recommended. Sion is the place. The Bräuhaus also has a few rooms upstairs that it rents out. you’ll probably like Kölsch (koehlsch). west on Mühlengasse.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 373 potatoes boiled and mashed together and served with fried blood sausage). Main courses: 9. % 0221/272-7777. Although the wine is the main reason for coming (the local Rhine wines are that special). the wood paneling a little smoky with time and frequent polishing. topfermented beer that’s brewed only in Cologne. called a Köbes. a dry. 369. such as Riesenhämchen (boiled pigs’ knuckles) with sauerkraut. If you go to any of the taverns in town.–11 p. Open: Daily noon to 11:30 p. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north along the Rhine promenade. . thin glass.50€–23€ ($12–$28). which they bring to your table in a special carrier called a Kölschkranz. You may start with escargots. the cuisine also is very good. Fischmarkt 1–3. and north on Unter Taschenmacher). See map p. you can order a Kölsch from one of the blue-aproned waiters. Expect to pay about 1. A Rhineland meat specialty is sauerbraten with almonds. delicious. or sauerbraten (pot. called a Stangen. % 0221/257-8540. The waiters always serve the beer in a tall. AE. Kölsch: Cologne’s beer of choice Even if you don’t like beer. Bockwurst (sausage) with potato salad. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral. See map p. 369. Closed Dec 22–Jan 10. Fish main courses include roasted pikeperch on lentils with balsamic vinegar and salmon poached in Rhine wine. marinated herring. or stuffed mushrooms. Unter Taschenmacher 5.50€ ($2) for a small glass of Kölsch on tap.

and leg of venison with a cognac-thyme sauce. on a narrow street set back from the Rhine.m. Other specialties include Sauerkrautsuppe (sauerkraut soup) and Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings). Main courses: 14€–30€ ($17–$37). 369. the tavern’s beer on tap. Hanse Stube offers excellent cuisine and service in quiet. and 6:30–10:30 p. on the ground floor. Sat–Sun 11 a.000-year-old brewing tradition. 369. In summer. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and across Roncalliplatz to Am Hof). Main courses: 9€–17€ ($11–$21). Tasty main courses include basil risotto. and hearty portions. Fixed-price menus: 72€–79€ ($90–$99). Am Hof 12–14. Fixed-price business lunch: 30€–38€ ($37–$47). DC. to midnight. stuffed kohlrabi with truffle. . AE. how about strawberries with cappuccino-chocolate sauce? The wine list is exemplary. A favorite dish is Hämchen. Salzgasse 13. Sünner im Walfisch $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/FRENCH This Bräuhaus. Reservations recommended. % 0221/257-7879. is better). A step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered facade. to midnight. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Salzgasse). 369. See map p. V. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst.374 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Früh am Dom $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN This Bräuhaus is the best all-around for atmosphere. Fri 3 p. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p.m. with a different German specialty offered every day of the week. See map p. The menu is in English.m. elegant surroundings. AE. V.m. it dates from 1626. iced melon risotto with shrimp skewer. DC. MC. is a good choice for atmospheric dining. Reservations recommended. this tavern also has a beer garden. % 0221/270-3402. Main courses: 9. to midnight. a Cologne specialty of smoked pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and potato purée. % 0221/261-3250. See map p. MC. For dessert. has a 1. to midnight. The restaurant serves many Rhineland specialties and dishes influenced by French cuisine.m. The menu changes daily but may include crayfish and avocado salad or grilled scallops for starters. Hanse Stube $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH One of Cologne’s top gourmet restaurants. Domplatz.m. economy. Früh-Kölsch.50€–19€ ($12–$24). Open: Mon–Thurs 5 p. You can eat in the upstairs or downstairs dining rooms (upstairs. You may try the pork cutlet with fried onions and crispy roast potatoes or the land-and-sea platter with roast beef and several kinds of fish. Open: 8 a. No credit cards.

% 0221/270-3910. it’s a wonder that the Gothic facade is stylistically coherent. or more ambitious dishes such as sweet-and-sour prawn soup with baked pineapple. AE. 369. Reservations recommended for dinner. is a serenely comfortable spot to enjoy sea-fresh sushi and sashimi. and a series of statues made in the cathedral workshop between 1270 and 1290.m. and 6–10 p. The restaurant’s striking design includes a serpentine fish tank built into the floor. and a one-day family/group card good for two adults and two children or three adults costs 18€ ($22). is the most important part of the cathedral. Upon completion. The Dreikönigschrein (Shrine of the Three Magi). housed in a glass case at the end of the choir.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Taku $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt JAPANESE/ASIAN 375 Taku. its twin filigreed spires rising to a height of 157m (515 ft. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). The giant reliquary is a masterpiece of goldsmith work dating from the end of the 12th century. Fixed-price dinner menus: 49€–69€ ($61–$86). A one-day card costs 9€ ($11). In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. Consecrated in 1322. the choir contains original. richly carved oak stalls. or curry with beef filet. See map p. Exploring Cologne You find the cathedral and all the major museums in the Innenstadt. V. the service highly professional. the roughly half-square-mile area of the original Roman colony. the largest cathedral in northern Europe. a beef filet salad. MC. is good for travel on all forms of public transportation and gets you into most museums for free or at a reduced cost. Domplatz. which can be visited only on guided tours. More than 600 years elapsed from the laying of the cornerstone in 1248 to the placement of the last finial (a decorative element) on the south tower in 1880. In addition to some magnificent Renaissance-era stained-glass windows in the north aisle. The food is good. is the cathedral’s major treasure.). Dom (Cathedral) Considering how much time passed during the building of this gigantic edifice. The choir. Overwhelming is the simplest way to describe it. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. After a day of sightseeing. available from the tourist office. DC. round off your visit with an evening stroll along the Rhine promenade in Deutz. the cathedral . a twoday card costs 14€ ($17). the Asian restaurant in the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. screen paintings. The famous Three Kings windows in the clerestory (the area above the nave) were installed in the early 14th century.m. the Cologne cathedral was the tallest building in the world. The Cologne Welcome Card. seared monkfish with green mango salad. Main courses: 23€–37€ ($29–$46).

In operation since 1957. 2.m. 369.m. An der Rechtsschule. 3€ ($3. Give yourself about an hour to see everything.–5 p. Adoration of the Magi.10) children and students. Peter) for an inspiring view of the city and the Rhine. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (you see the cathedral as you come out of the train station).90) adults. Tours: English-language tours Mon–Sat 11 a. on the other hand.. 369. and 3:30 p. include rooms and furniture by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.25) adults.–6 p.25) adults. 369. Open: Cathedral daily 6 a.m.m. Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) The treasures on display in this museum include furniture. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the Dom on Unter Fettenhenn to An der Rechtsschule). (winter until dusk). See map p. % 0221/547-4184. you can climb the 509 stairs of the 14th-century south tower (entry through the Portal of St. .m.60€ ($3.– 6 p. On the south side of the choir is Stephan Lochner’s altarpiece. the enclosed gondolas cross the river beside the Zoobrücke (Zoo Bridge) between the Rheinpark in Deutz and the zoo.m. and 12:30.25) children 6–12.75) children. tower daily 9 a. On the ground floor and mezzanine. Admission: Round-trip ticket 5.m. Open: Apr–Oct daily 10 a. See map p. U-Bahn: Zoo/Flora (then a 2-minute walk south to the departure point on the west side of the river). Sun 2 and 3:30 p. treasury and tower combined 5€ ($6. Riehler Strasse 180. You can make a circuit of the interior in about half an hour. The painting is a masterpiece of the Cologne school — Italian in format. Kölner Seilbahn (Cologne Cable Car) You get the best panoramic view of the city of Cologne by taking the Kölner Seilbahn. The Art Nouveau room is particularly impressive.. tower alone 2€ ($2.50) children and students. 2. % 0221/221-23860. home décor. Flemish in the precision of its execution.20€ ($5. the first and only cable-car system in Europe designed to span a major river. and the American designer Charles Eames. Admission: Cathedral free. tour cost: 4€ ($5) adults. See map p. hanging in a chapel on the north side of the choir. you’re in reasonably good shape.25) children and students. If.m. is a rare monumental sculpture carved in Cologne in the late tenth century and reputedly the oldest-existing large-scale crucifix in the Western world.m.376 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany really has only two other must-see treasures. exclusively from the 20th century. and you aren’t missing much if you skip it. and handicrafts from the Middle Ages to the present day. The Gero Cross. Domkloster.m. German architect Mies van der Rohe.50) adults.. 1€ ($1.m. treasury daily 10 a. created around 1445. The trip takes about 15 minutes each way.m. 2. Open: Tues–Sun 11 a.50€ ($6.m. Admission: 4. % 0221/9258-4730. among others. the guided tours last one hour.50€ ($3. You get a great view of the cathedral and the river traffic along the Rhine.–7:30 p.–5 p. The cathedral’s Schatzkammer (Treasury) is rather disappointing. 2€ ($2. the exhibits.

The area became a military garrison with an imperial shrine and eventually was granted rights as a Roman city called Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (CCAA) in A. dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art. which once ran down to the Roman harbor. constructed around A.D. Towering over the mosaic. The Agfa-Foto-Historama. the swastika — probably Indian in origin — was a symbol of good luck and happiness. when the Roman legions were recalled from the Rhine frontier.50€ ($7) children and students. Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) Cologne’s history. 50.D.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 377 The Roman city of Colonia By 50 B. opened in 1986. Portions of an original Roman wall still stand beneath Domplatz in the underground parking lot. Exhibits represent nearly every major artist and art movement of the 20th century. On the second floor.C. a street paved with its original stones. 369. Centuries before the symbol became ominously identified with the atrocities of the Third Reich. Admission: 7. Give yourself at least an hour. % 0221/221-22379. Before you enter. and the fabric of the city today. The Roman-Germanic Museum was built around the magnificent Dionysius mosaic. produced in a Rhineland workshop in the third century and discovered in 1941 by workers digging an air-raid shelter.50) adults. which extols the joys of good living. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and east on Roncalliplatz). You need at least an hour to browse through the entire museum. 401. Museum Ludwig This museum. it is the largest antique tomb ever found north of the Alps. The museum covers the period that extends from the Stone Age to the period of Charlemagne (9th century). you can see a superlative collection of Roman glassware and a world-renowned collection of Roman jewelry. On the lowest level. is devoted to the history of photography. on the right side of the museum is Hafenstrasse. Cologne’s Roman period lasted until A. devoted to the daily life of the Romans. and was known in Latin as the crux gamata.50€ ($9. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. is the tomb of Lucius Poblicius. a museum within the museum. the cult of the dead. look at the section of the Roman North Gate preserved on Domplatz in front of the cathedral. 5. See map p. more if you love modern art. The exhibits explore themes or types: religious life. . and so on. you find an ancient black-andwhite mosaic floor covered with swastikas.D. Julius Caesar had extended the borders of the Roman Empire as far as the Rhine and established an alliance with the Germanic Ubii tribe on the site of presentday Cologne.–6 p.m..m. 40 for a Roman officer. trade and industry. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. is inextricably bound with the history of Rome — a legacy that is documented in this fascinating museum.

. % 0221/221-22310. U-Bahn: Neumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Pipinstrasse. The new museum nicely shows off the art but somehow feels like an office building from the 1950s.m. the museum boasts a rich collection of 19th-century paintings. Schnütgen Museum The Romanesque church of St. Gustave Courbet. around the back. Here you find Rubens’s Self-Portrait Amidst the Circle of Friends from Mantua and an enigmatic self-portrait by Rembrandt. In 2000. Wallraf-Richartz Museum The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is one of the country’s greatest repositories of art from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century. crucifixes. A memorable collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings holds pride of place on the second floor. Admission: 3.– 6 p. Admission: 6.80€ ($7. Give yourself about two hours if you want to browse through all the galleries. % 0221/221-21119. Opened in 1861. Cecilia.–6 p. Open: Tues 10 a.. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a.25) adults.50) children.95€ ($5) children. splendid sampling of sacred art from the early Middle Ages to the baroque.45€ ($8) adults. Martinstrasse 39. 369. 369.m. Cäcilienstrasse 29.90€ ($2. Edvard Munch. % 0221/221-22304. which becomes Cäcilienstrasse).m.m. The Renaissance section includes works by Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach.20€ ($4) adults. this oddly engaging work is by the Zurich graffiti artist Harald Nägele. The relics.m.” Outside.–5 p.m. Sat–Sun 11 a. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Auguste Renoir. Roncalliplatz 4. Cäcilien (St. 1.–8 p.m. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Unter Käster to Martinstrasse). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk south past the cathedral to Roncalliplatz). Admission: 5.m. . Wed–Fri 10 a.378 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. On the first floor.. a skeleton has been spray-painted on the walled-in western portal of the church. Try not to miss this small. with major pieces by the German Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich. reliquaries. Sat–Sun 11 a. the museum moved to a new building designed by Cologne architect Oswald Mathias Ungers. See map p. Called simply Tod (Death). 3.–5 p.m. Ursula in particular. patron saint of music) houses one of Cologne’s finest art collections. See map p. among scores of others.–5 p.m. 369. the museum also is one of Germany’s oldest. Many of the paintings and altarpieces depict legends from the lives of martyred saints who became identified with the “Holy Cologne” of the Middle Ages — St. 3. you find an outstanding collection of paintings by the medieval Cologne school (most done between 1330 and 1550).30€ ($4) students and children.m. In addition to important French and Spanish works.m. and Vincent van Gogh. and sculpture on display give you an idea of the artistic blessings bestowed upon “Holy Cologne.

and Filz Gnoss. jammed every day except Sunday with shoppers. you find all the major international designer-clothing boutiques. . Ehrenstrasse 104. pick up a copy of Monats Vorschau (1.koelnticket. next to the cathedral (% 0221/2801.50€/$2) at newsstands). You can buy 4711 cologne in all sizes and shapes. 4711 Haus. Shopping in Cologne The first Füssgänger (pedestrians-only) shopping zones in Germany originated in Cologne and present a seemingly endless and interconnected conglomeration of shops and shopping arcades. The Mühlens family. 4711 Any kind of toilet water is now called “eau de Cologne. Cologne offers a variety of fine arts and nightlife options. Discovering nightlife in Cologne One of Germany’s major cultural centers. fruit sellers. musicians. To find out what’s going on in the city. and perfumeries. On Hohe Strasse and its surrounding streets.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 379 Cologne from Cologne: No. The smallest bottle costs about 5€ ($6. is now Cologne’s busiest commercial drag. and the big department stores. and even as premoistened towelettes. Three specialty shops worth knowing about: Schirmbusch. fine leather bags and purses. and endless stores. fine jewelry.” but Echt Kölnisch Wasser (the original eau de Cologne) remains the official designation of origin for the distinctive toilet waters created in the city of Cologne.” or simply “cologne. the main north–south street in Roman times. organ grinders. www. and Italian designer shoes. German. stocks a large selection of art postcards and greeting cards. Walter König’s Postkartenlade. another early producer of Kölnisch Wasser. and French. Schildergasse is where you find international men’s fashions. sells the orange-and-lavender-scented water first developed in Cologne in 1709 by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina. Apostelnstrasse 21 (% 0221/257-0108). also lived and worked in this house at no. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).25).de. Hohe Strasse. The street number eventually became the trademark name for their product. as soap. snack shops. Glockengasse 4711 (% 0221/925-0450. Breite Strasse 93. 4711. Roncalliplatz 4. sells unusually decorated and comfortable felt slippers and those enormous Überpantoffeln you slip over your shoes and slide around in when touring German palaces. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). You can purchase tickets at a venue’s box office (Kasse) or at Köln MusikTicket. carries a huge selection of umbrellas. stores selling silver.

is the site of three theaters. Alter Markt 50–52 (% 0221/258-2132.m. each with its own performances and schedules. The Schauspielhaus. Tickets range from 11€ to 100€ ($14–$125). when the music begins at 3:30 p. U-Bahn: Neumarkt).buehnenkoeln. is a combination disco–concert hall housed within a former electrical power plant. Quo Vadis Pub. to 1 a. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). Dance programs also take place here. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). to 3 a. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1 (% 0221/2801. to 2 or 3 a. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). is the Rhineland’s leading opera house. Dance clubs E-Werk. according to the event. on the The hall also presents pop and jazz programs.koelner-philharmonie.m.m. is best on Sunday. Buttermarkt 37 (% 0221/257-7931. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/ U-Bahn: Neumarkt).m. Jazz clubs Klimperkasten (also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon). Zulpicher Strasse 10 (% 0221/170-2764. E-Werk is open every Friday and Saturday night at 10 p.m.m. Recorded music alternates with live acts. open from 10 p. Gay and lesbian bars Chains. Apostelnstrasse 11 (% 0221/254-433. Ticket prices vary. The most sophisticated rendezvous for gays and lesbians in Cologne is Gloria.m.m.380 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Performing arts The Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). and . is open from 10 p. Stephansstrasse 4 (% 0221/238-730. anywhere from 8€ to 80€ ($10–$100). with a cover of 4€ to 10€ ($5–$13). is a small and intimate jazz and piano bar with live music every night beginning around 8 p. Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal.. www. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/22128400. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). The bar is open daily from noon to midnight during the week and from 11 a. Live bands and DJs play for dancers at MTC. www.m. is near Marienplatz at Pipinstrasse 7 (% 0221/258-1414. Friday and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 a. a gay leather bar in the Marienplatz area.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). is the home of two fine orchestras: the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra). open Sunday to Thursday from 9 a.m. U-Bahn: Keupstrasse). to 3 a.m. a good gay bar for men and women. U-Bahn: Zulpicherplatz). U-Bahn: Neumarkt). Schanzenstrasse 28 (% 0221/962-790. completed in the late 1980s.

m. The cost is 6.m. Frankenwerft 15 (% 0221/208-8318. and 9:45 a.m. and 6 p. 2500 Westchester Ave. The KD ticket booth and boarding point is right on the river. and returns at 5:45 p. and 8:20 p.m. Kölsch.50). Winding through the steep slopes of the Eifel and . Altstadt Päffgen. Taverns Päffgen Bräuhaus. Prerecorded commentary in English plays on both of these sightseeing cruises. noon. Seating is available indoors and out. a short walk south from the cathedral. to midnight. The tavern is open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to midnight. The round-trip cost is 46€ ($57). NY 10577 (% 800/346-6525). 2 p. offers boat tours of the Rhine from Cologne.. a 110-year-old tavern.. departing Mainz daily at 8:45 a. serves its Kölsch brand of beer. rivercruises. The one-hour Panorama Rundfahrt (round-trip) is a pleasant way to see the stretch of Rhine immediately around Cologne. The club doesn’t charge a cover. is a scenic winegrowing region like the nearby Rheingau (see the “Sampling the wines of Rheingau” sidebar in this chapter). to 2 a. Beautiful Scenery The Mosel Valley. the cost is 9. The tour departs daily at 10:30 a. and returning at 7:20 p.m. If you want to see the most scenic stretch of the Rhine.m.m.m. take one of KD’s daylong cruises between Mainz and Koblenz. lasts until 1 a. with German dishes. represented in North America by JFO Cruise Service.80€ ($12). you can enjoy a trip on the river aboard one of the many local boats. Heumarkt 62 (% 0221/257-7765. The tavern is open daily from 10 a.m.m. Even if you don’t have time for a long Rhine cruise. U-Bahn: Friesenplatz).k-d.m.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 381 Cruises along the Rhine Cologne is a major embarkation point for Rhine also serves the local The Mosel Valley: Great Wines. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe.80€ ($8. www. Friesenstrasse 64–66 (% 0221/135-461. southwest of Cologne.. along with regional cuisine.. Purchase. A daily Nachmittags (afternoon) cruise with Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) leaves at 3:30 p. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). or visit the company’s Web site at www. For more information on Rhine River cruises. KD (Köln–Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt). The club is also open for live jazz Monday to Saturday from 7 p. with the legendary Lorelei rock and many hilltop castles.m.

A return boat departs at 3:40 p. Monday through Thursday 9 a. sails down the Mosel to Cochem. a boat operated by KD (% 0221/20881. to 6 p.. Cochem is your best choice for an overnight stopover between Koblenz and Trier. a medieval riverside town surrounded by vineyards. The tourist information office. a full 10 percent of the national total.m. boats depart daily from Koblenz at 9:45 a. The A49 Autobahn runs between Koblenz and Trier. to 6 p. You can also reach Cochem by train from either of those cities.m. From late April to late October. and Sunday in July and August from 9 a. Cochem is a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. For information. the Mosel Valley follows the course of the Mosel River (spelled Moselle in English) for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. April through October. . Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). to 5 p.m. and Friday 9 a.m. The office also is open Saturday from May through August from 9 a.) The valley encompasses thousands of acres of vineyards.m. is open November through March.m. to 1 p. The similar Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. The 51km (32 miles) southwest of Koblenz. Admission is 4. Touring the valley by boat or car If you’re headquartering in Cologne and want to enjoy a boat cruise down the Mosel River.k-d. celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. Stopping in Cochem About halfway down the Mosel River from Koblenz is Cochem.m. to noon. to 5 p. a restored 11th-century castle at the top of the hill behind the town.m. and 2 to 5 p. is open daily mid-March to November 9 a. begins the first week of June. contact the Cochem tourist information office. The round-trip fare is 22€ ($28). (See “The Mosel Valley” map in this chapter.m.m.m. From there. www. Its beautiful scenery. Cochem’s biggest attraction is Reichsburg Cochem (% 02671/255).m. arriving in Koblenz at 8 p.. where the waters flow into the Rhine.m.50€ ($3) for children and students.382 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hunsruck hills in the German state of Rheinland-Palatinate. the most famous and photographed sight along the Mosel River. fine wine. the prettier A53 runs alongside the Mosel between Zell and Schweich.50) for adults and 2. medieval castles.50€ ($5.m. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and halftimbered houses make the Mosel Valley a prime area for exploration.m. Monday through Friday 9 a. Roman ruins. Endertplatz 1 (% 0267/60040. and arrive in Cochem at 3 p. the easiest way is to take a train to Koblenz.m.cochem. If you’re driving through the Mosel Valley.

All major credit cards are accepted. Alte Thorschenke. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel.m. and kept warm at your table with a hot stone. The restaurant is open daily from noon to 2 p. Main courses range from 15€ to 25€ ($19–$31). Diners Club. 1.m. and Visa are accepted. . A few of the rooms have four-poster beds. and dine at Weissmühle im Enterttal. originally built in 1332. Endertstrasse 1 (% 02671/8955). all contain shower-tub combinations. Brückenstrasse 3. Rack rates range from 77€ to 115€ ($96–$144) for a double. The half-timbered structure. baked. fax: 02671/4202). For a fine meal. Try the trademark dish of fresh trout stuffed with herbs.6km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem. added a modern wing and became a hotel in 1960. 56812 Cochem (% 02671/7059. A creaking wooden staircase (you can also take the elevator) leads to most of the 35 rooms. drive to Enterttal. MasterCard. buffet breakfast included.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 383 The Mosel Valley A61 Nürburg E RM Cologne 410 E31 AN Y Mendig Mayen Koblenz A48 E44 Berlin A1 G Area of Detail Gerolstein 410 Kelburg Daun A48 E44 Lahnstein Kaiseresch Burg Eltz Alken 49 Boppard Ulmen 257 Mosel Moselkern 327 A61 Cochem A1 49 Meisburg Beilstein Senheim Bullay E31 Alf Marienburg A60 53 Wittlich Bitburg 51 Zell Traben-Trarbach Simmern M osel Bernkastel-Kues 269 421 Gemünden XEM– EM URG RG E44 327 Morbach 269 0 10 mi Kirn 0 10 km 41 N Trier A1 Idar-Oberstein 270 41 420 Both a hotel and a wine restaurant. and 6 to 9 p.

fig. and wine fans consider Rheingau Rieslings to be among the best white wines made anywhere. If you’re driving.384 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Sampling the wines of Rheingau The Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. is like a northern extension of Italy. 367) follows a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine west of Wiesbaden to the attractive Rhine-side town of Bingen. the B42 highway runs beside the river between Boppard and Eltville. . The Rheingau wine district (see “The Rhineland” map p. This part of the Rhineland not only turns out fine wines but has been fundamentally formed by the culture of wine. cherry. The Rheingau wine grapes produce a delicately fruity wine with a full aroma. conditions the Romans recognized as perfect for grape-growing. on the river’s northern bank. you sail through this scenic winegrowing region. The wind-sheltered southern slopes of the Taunus range. Vineyards have produced wine here since Roman times. the Rheingau’s unofficial capital. traditions. and other fruit trees and its sheltered sunny slopes covered with vineyards. with its almond. Eighty percent of this wine comes from the Riesling grape. If you take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz (see the “Cruises along the Rhine” sidebar in this chapter). as reflected in its economy. get plenty of sunshine and comparatively little rain. and festivals.

But Frankfurt is first and foremost a modern. Frankfurt definitely focuses on business. The best known is the International Book Fair. (See the “Frankfurt am Main” map in this chapter. and a lively nightlife. Because the Frankfurt airport serves as the country’s main international hub. cabaret. nearly 450 banks maintained headquarters here. a rich cultural life.Chapter 20 Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Frankfurt ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Strolling through the Altstadt ᮣ Discovering Apfelwein. At last count. Frankfurt is the financial center not only of Germany but also of the entire European Union (EU). Germany’s central bank. and sometimes called “Mainhattan” because of its skyscraper-studded skyline. Nearly 40. Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city. and the Central Bank of the EU. a small portion of Frankfurt’s Altstadt (Old Town) was lovingly rebuilt. The huge symbol that stands on Willy-Brandt-Platz in front of the new opera house can be regarded as the city’s logo. the city is a tourist destination with fine museums and art collections. many travelers get their first introduction to Germany in this city. Today. great shopping. Leveled during Allied bombing raids in World War II (WWII). . a fact that helps account for all those designer skyscrapers (more than in any other German city. the most important meeting place in the world for the acquisition and sale of book rights and translations. Millions of visitors descend on the city during its trade shows in spring and autumn. A very strong American presence exists in this city on the Main.000 American soldiers were stationed in Frankfurt until 1990. and including the tallest building in Europe).) Frankfurt has been a major banking city since the Rothschilds opened their first bank here more than 200 years ago. and more L ocated on the River Main. home of the Bundesbank. cosmopolitan city. Besides being a muchvisited business center.

fenstr Gärtnerweg ESCHENHEIMER TOR Rothschild’s Rothschild Park Alte Oper An l . nstr. s se All ee U Mique l e alle er S tra GRÜNEBURG PARK Holzh rass e ausen str. ke st r a l l ee ss e ra Grüneburgweg Siesn Feld bur gstr. Ar n HAUPTBAHNHOF in Ma ze a rL nd . we ize rP l. Senck Linde B o c k e nh e i m er lsso nde Me dts tr. U Kais er chen Mun tr. Beethove nstr. 4 r./ADICKESALLEE Berlin M i q u e l a ll e e U A di e c k e s A l le ene Eyss Ha nsa GERMANY ckst Frankfurt am Main Munich C ro n ste tten str. berge st angg Wo l f Gr ün ebu rg w eg urgstr. ka i ai n MUSEUMSUFER Sch s Leu ch ne r te 17 16 Un rm M ha GUTLEUTVIERTEL t t s leu ai nk ai um 15 n ai B 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters 13 U N Ke i Information S-Bahn U-Bahn Station Güterbahnhof Oppenheim nn ed ya lle e Gu t er Fran z St HOLZHAUSENSTRASSE r. ers Str. R r. r. U 5 6 2 Guiollett str.386 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankfurt am Main Hamburg MIQ. Lei Fa pzi üc lk B re m g er e anlag Schumannstr. ayer st Stau . HAUPTWACHE hst oc U Börse Gr. ss Willy-BrandtPlatz U THEATERPLATZ i s tr. ner erli bach B r au 10 12 11 es ten ds tra sse er Un te r ma inb r. University enberg nstr. Freidb nFurste rstr. Wolfg angst tra sse U Ba us GRÜNEBURGWEG 1 WESTEND Bock enh ei m er L and 3 str a ss e r. str nu Tau tr. Zeil TAUNUSANLANGE U J 7 u n g hof An der Hauptwache Ne ue MESSE W Güterplatz Goetheplatz 8 9 9 Str. BH ocke nhe imer str. Ma inz Str. Fri ed se ras Sc 14 e U en sb rü ck SCHWEIZERPLATZ .

Parad iesga Se eh o sse de ls w ./ ALTE GASSE U ie ile db r erg 25 stra er sse KONSTABLERWACHE 24 RathenauU Zeil platz Am T ie Lan r ga A LT S TA D T RÖMER 21 U B a tto n n stra sse se s t ra s 19 20 22 Ma i n K a i EisernerSteg ckWe r k t ma 26 Schöne Au ssicht 23 Oberm 18 Sach s e n h ä u s e r U fer olb rK lte tr. ss e DINING eg Exedra 25 Haus Wertheym 12 Konditoriei Hollhorst 11 Main Tower Restaurant & Bar 7 Restaurant Français 9 Tiger Restaurant. as Ro ths rL d an str as se ACCOMMODATIONS M Der Messe 2 An Hilton Frankfurt 5 Hotel am Dom 26 Hotel Robert Mayer 1 Hotelschiff Peter Schlott 13 str er rg Bu Mozart 4 Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof 9 se rtm an -Ib ac hs tr. ch ild Al GLAUBERGSTRASSE lee rg L a n d strasse al ee Se b ck ac he BORNHEIM MITTE U rs be l Saa HÖHENSTRASSE U Bornheimer Gü BORNHEIM lbu he nt d b e rger Bu s rg tr.-Miller Str. p k ar str as se Anla Floberb rücke ge erm Ob n a n lage ds t ainbr. and Tiger-Bistrot 24 Weinhaus Brückenkeller 23 Deutsches Architektur Museum 16 Deutsches Filmmuseum 17 Eschenheimer Tor 6 Eschenheimer Turm 6 Goethe-Haus S tralenberge 8 r str. Obermainkai nem str. Rit te r gasse SACHSENHAUSEN Da rm s t ä d ter Landstrass e W en ai i Oste ndst rasse ra sse n So Oskar-v. Heinrich-HoffmanMuseum 3 Historisches Museum 10 Kaiserdom 20 Liebieghaus 14 Main Tower 7 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 18 Museum für Moderne Kunst 21 Römer and Römerberg 22 Städelsches Kunstinstitut/ Städtische Galerie 15 Struwwelpeter-Museum 19 Os t L a n d s t r a ss e U Hö he MARIANPLATZ W ald sc n Ha rg A lle e bs bu rg er Landwehr Al W Ha bs bu r he ac e sb Alle e t it lee Bu rg . a W S Gr. Zoo rte n Rö db urg w. Palastbar. Fri e MUSTERSCHULE U E sc he n m hei er VILBELER S. ann OSTHAFEN ATTRACTIONS Deutsch herr nufe Main r fs tra G erb ermühl str.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 387 Nib U ADICKES/ NIBELUNGENALLE elun E c k enh ei m gen Alle e Ha NORDEND U Neuh ofstr. str Bethmann’s Bethmann Park Se Fr OSTEND all ee rg hm er idts t r.

Tickets are available from the RMV ticket machines (with English translations) at the regional station and at the Deutsche Bahn (DB) Travel Center. Detroit. Dallas. Level 0 (% 069/691-844). The long-distance AIRail Terminal links the airport to cities throughout Germany and neighboring countries. Terminal 1 handles most European flights.25). SEB Bank. Terminal 2 handles international flights. to 11:30 p. (RMV are the initials of the public transportation authority. Boston. By plane The city’s a bus terminal. and Finanz Bank) with currency exchange windows. Newark. Terminal 1. Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (% 069/6901. They are marked: Einzelfahrt Frankfurt (single ticket to Frankfurt) and Tageskarte Frankfurt inkl. . Hopping a bus into the city If you want to travel to the city center by bus. with direct flights from many U. The airport has two railway stations. A one-way ticket costs 5€ ($6. If you fly into Germany from outside of Europe. Taking the train into the city The simplest method for getting into the city from the airport is by train. and Washington.C. you have many options from which to choose. this airport serves more than 110 countries worldwide. Some airlines offer special shuttle-bus services to Frankfurt from the airport. Philadelphia. and air corridors lead to Frankfurt. Platform 1. chances are you’ll land at the city’s airport.S. Miami.m. including the trip from the airport).) The RMV ticket machines have special fast-selection buttons for the S-Bahn journey to Frankfurt. These two S-Bahn lines take you to Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) in about ten minutes. Montreal. Chicago. Dresdner Bank. and Canadian cities. www. D. Pittsburgh. frankfurt-airport. Toronto. rail lines. in which you find many banks (Commerz Bank. lies 11km (7 miles) from the city center. open daily from 6 a. You find bus stops in front of Terminal 1 on the arrivals level and in front of Terminal 2 on Level 2.m. Europe’s busiest airport and Germany’s major international gateway. and several carrental offices. Privately operated currency exchanges (Travelex is one) and ATMs are also there. Flughafen (a reduced-price one-day transportation ticket within Frankfurt. Denver. Portland (Oregon). including Atlanta.388 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting There All roads. New York. S8 and S9 trains (direction Offenbach or Hanau) to Frankfurt’s city center depart about every ten minutes from the regional train station. check when you purchase your ticket. Regional and local trains operate from the Regional Station directly below Terminal 1. A people-mover system (called Sky Line) links the two airport terminals.

m. the A60 connects with the A66. You find most of the historic sights and several museums in the Altstadt on the north bank.m. The A3 comes in from the Netherlands. Concentrated in the city center around the Altstadt are hotels. with connections to all major German and European cities. is a residential and embassy quarter. The Altstadt contains an even older section referred to as the Innenstadt.m. By train Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof is the busiest train station in Europe.m. Switzerland.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 389 Catching a cab into the city A taxi ride from the airport to the city center costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 20 minutes. is open Monday to Friday from 8 a. west of the Altstadt. www. opposite the main entrance of the train station (% 069/2123-8800. opposite the main entrance (% 069/2123-8800). The A5 comes from the northeast (Hannover) and continues south to Heidelberg and Basel. . and nightlife.m. and Bonn and continues east and south to Würzburg.m.frankfurt-tourismus.10). Cologne. By car The A3 and A5 autobahns intersect near Frankfurt’s airport. It was the only part of Frankfurt that was not destroyed during the WWII Allied bombing of the city. restaurants. in the Altstadt. to 9 p. and Munich.. Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof.50€ ($3. to 6 p. You find currency-exchange windows and bank ATMs in the station. Nürnberg. to 4 p. The exclusive Westend district.bahn. or Inner City. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. The huge.m. to 5:30 p. Finding Information After You Arrive You find tourist information in two locations: ߜ Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. to 6 p.. is open Monday to Friday 8 a. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. From the west. Taxis are available in front of the terminals. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. including schedules and fares. This office offers a hotel-booking service for 2.m. to 9 p.m. Römerberg 27 (% 069/2123-8800).de). www.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. de). Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt The River Main divides Frankfurt. For travel information. ߜ Tourist Information Römer. which leads to Frankfurt.m. Saturday and Sunday 9 a. modern Frankfurt Messe (trade-fair convention center) is considered part of the Westend..

Baselerstrasse is on your right and heads south toward the River Main. ߜ The Frankfurt Card. you may be fined 30€ ($37) on the spot. administered by the RMV (Rhein-Main Verkehrsverbund. is the site of many prominent museums. on foot. transport on the airport shuttle bus. is a popular entertainment quarter filled with Frankfurt’s famous apple-wine 0.80€ ($1) for children.vgf-ffm. A one-way single