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by Donald Olson

Germany For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http:// Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. . All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2007925980 ISBN: 978-0-470-08956-9 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the Author
Novelist, playwright, and travel writer Donald Olson is the author of the award-winning England For Dummies, London For Dummies, Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London, and Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria. Under the pen name Swan Adamson he has written the novels My Three Husbands — now translated into four languages — and Confessions of a Pregnant Princess (both published by Kensington, New York), as well as Memoirs Are Made of This (Hodder Headline, London). Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, National Geographic Books, and many other publications.

To Gary Larson, with thanks for his help in Germany and with life in general.

Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank RailEurope for its generous assistance.

Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Lindsay Conner, Production Editor; Amy Lyons, Development Editor Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Editorial Assistant: Melinda Quintero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard J. Pacifico Cover Photos: Front: Bavaria, Ramsau © Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Getty Images Back: © Frank Rothe/Getty Images Cartoons: Rich Tennant ( Composition Services Project Coordinator: Lynsey Osborn Layout and Graphics: Claudia Bell, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie D. Jumper, Melanee Prendergast Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: Aptara, David Faust, Cynthia Fields, Melanie Hoffman, Todd Lothery, Charles Spencer Indexer: Aptara

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a Glance
Introduction .......................................................1 Part I: Introducing Germany................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ....................................15 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..............................25 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ..............39

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ..............49
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................51 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ......................................................63 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ............................................71 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................82 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ......................90 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ......................99

Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........109
Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin ..................................................111 Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin........................................................139 Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North ................................................175 Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East....................................................................207

Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..........243
Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit ..........................245 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria................................................284 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights ....................................................311 Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers ................................................................337 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ................365 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros ..........385

Part V: The Part of Tens ..................................409
Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons......................411 Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ..............................415 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............420

Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................423 Index .............................................................433


............................147 Potsdam .............................221 Leipzig ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................271 The Residenz......................................................................................323 Freiburg ..............................................................................................................................................................................145 Berlin-Mitte Attractions ...........................................................................................339 Stuttgart ...................321 Baden-Baden ...........................................................................................................................................................27 Berlin Neighborhoods ..............................................................................287 Würzburg ........................................................................................355 The Rhineland .......................................................295 Füssen ...................................................................................................235 Munich Neighborhoods ...........................127 Tiergarten-Area Attractions .....................................................................351 Nuremberg.....................307 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) .................................................................................329 Heidelberg ............................................................................124 Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining ...143 Charlottenburg Attractions ..................................................................................................................254 Central Munich Attractions.............................................................116 Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining ...............248 Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn ...........................383 Frankfurt am Main .............................................195 Lübeck ......371 The Mosel Valley..227 Weimar ................................................................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber ............................................................................................................................................181 Bremen.....................................................199 Saxony and Thuringia .................................................................................................................................................................................169 Hamburg ...275 The Romantic Road ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................313 Lindau ...............................................................................................................291 Augsburg ...........211 The Zwinger..........................................................349 Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn.............391 ...............209 Dresden ..............................................................................................................251 Central Munich Accommodations and Dining ..................................................................................................................................................315 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) ..................................................................................................................................................386 Frankfurt U-Bahn and S-Bahn ..................................................................................367 Cologne .............................................................................................................................................................................................176 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn .303 Garmisch-Partenkirchen ...................................................225 Leipzig S-Bahn ....................................................................Maps at a Glance The Regions in Brief .................369 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn ....................................................................268 Deutsches Museum ..................................................


.................................19 Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies.................21 Movies ........13 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany .......................................1 About This Book.....................................................3 Foolish Assumptions ..................9 Discovering the Best Big German Cities.....31 Watching those unpredictable skies .................30 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons ...................................2 Conventions Used in This Book ............................................................................25 Discovering northern Germany ................................................................. Opera...................6 Part I: Introducing Germany...........................15 The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History................................18 Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany .......................Table of Contents Introduction ..............................................................................29 Scheduling Your Time.........................................11 Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities ..................................................................................................4 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .............25 Exploring eastern Germany ............................................................................4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ......................23 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..........11 Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces..........................28 Wending through western Germany..............................5 Icons Used in This Book........10 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes..7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany .......31 ..30 Traveling during high and low seasons .............12 Enjoying the Best in Classical Music....................................................................................6 Where to Go from Here.21 Books (fiction and nonfiction) ............................25 Going Where You Want to Be.................................................................................5 Part V: The Part of Tens ........................4 Part I: Introducing Germany ........................26 Savoring southern Germany................................3 How This Book Is Organized....4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ...................................................15 Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture .......................................... and Ballet................................................

....................................................................35 January.......................................... 3rd Edition Blossoming in spring ......63 Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where ...............................47 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ...............37 November .......................................................36 August .........39 Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week.....................................................33 Welcoming winter ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................62 A Tip about Tipping ...................51 Transportation costs.............................................38 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................36 September.................................................... West Side: Germany in Two Weeks .............65 Booking your flight online .......................................32 Shining (and raining) in summer ....39 East Side.........................................................................49 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ....................................66 ...........59 Toting traveler’s checks.....45 Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers .....54 Shopping and nightlife costs .............51 Planning Your Budget .............................................................62 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ....................53 Sightseeing expenses ..........................................51 Lodging expenses ..................................................................59 Charging ahead with credit cards...............................................................................................60 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet ..............63 Flying into Frankfurt ......................................................................35 May .................................................37 December......................................................................63 Flying into other German airports........................35 June.............37 October ......................................................54 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun ...........................................36 July......61 Taking Taxes into Account.............................33 Glowing in autumn.........64 Getting the best airfare ..........................................................................................................................................58 Using ATMs and carrying cash...........41 Discovering Germany with Kids......34 Perusing a Calendar of Events..........................................................35 February....................xii Germany For Dummies......................................................57 Handling Money ....................

74 Reserving your seat...........67 Joining an Escorted Tour .........................................80 Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? ..............................................Table of Contents xiii Arriving by Other Means..............82 Finding the Place That’s Right for You ............................80 Sailing through Germany: River Cruises .........................................................................84 Boutique hotels............................................ Tankstellen....................................77 Taking the roads less traveled ........................................................................................91 Hiring a baby sitter in Germany..........................................67 Arriving by boat ..85 Pensions......92 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors ...........84 Chain hotels... bitte (please)...80 Fill ’er up....................................84 Smaller independent hotels....68 Tour operators in the United States....71 Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go...............................................77 Renting a car in Germany ...........................................................................................................75 German rail passes: For Deutschland only.....................83 Luxury hotels ..............76 Touring by Car: Autobahns.................................90 Locating family-friendly businesses ........................................................................................89 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests .......................................................72 Following basic training .72 Heading to the Hauptbahnhof..75 Saving time and euros with rail passes.......................................79 Handling a roadside emergency....................................................................69 Locating airline and hotel packages..............................................................................................................................................................................76 Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe .................................................................................71 Weighing the Options: Train or Car? ....................................................74 Getting off on the right track.......................81 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ..............................86 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate..87 Reserving the best room...................................78 Following the rules of the road .............70 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ..............86 Surfing the Web for hotel deals................................................. and Benzin............................69 Choosing a package tour ...........................................................92 .................67 Traveling by train ...............................90 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families ...............................................85 Guesthouses .......

.................................................................96 Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators............130 ..... and Strassenbahn ............................................................................................................99 Getting a Passport........................................................111 Getting There...95 Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians ............107 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .........................115 Introducing western Berlin.................97 Researching German lesbigay life on the Web ..........100 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance .................................................S...........94 Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair).... .98 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details.....................................................................................................S............................................................................105 Going Wireless...............96 Celebrating gay pride in Germany ............................................99 Applying for other passports ...................122 Driving a car .........................112 By plane ........... 3rd Edition Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities .....................................................................123 The top hotels ...............101 Staying Healthy When You Travel...............114 Finding Information After You Arrive ..........................................112 By train...................................................................97 Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany...............................................xiv Germany For Dummies........113 By car .............................................................................104 Using a cellphone outside the U.....115 Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) ........................................................109 Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin............................... passport.............120 Going public: U-Bahn........................................................ bus..........................................113 Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof........99 Applying for a U...... S-Bahn................................................94 Locating resources ...............119 Getting Around Berlin..........................................................................................................106 Keeping Up with Airline Security .....................................123 Runner-up hotels .............120 Taking a taxi..................115 Orienting Yourself in Berlin ......................................122 Staying in Style ........103 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail.............................................................104 Accessing the Internet away from home ............

...................................................................................... and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North.....158 Following an Itinerary..............................................................................179 Orienting yourself .........................................................................................................................141 Finding more cool things to see and do................175 Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World .............................158 If you have one day in Berlin..............187 ...............153 Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour..........................................157 Walking tours......................180 Staying in Hamburg ....................163 Getting tickets .......184 Exploring Hamburg......................................................178 Finding information .....159 Shopping for Local Treasures..........................................................................................................................................................168 Getting there.....................................................................................................................163 Checking out the dance clubs and bars.....159 Shopping in western Berlin ......................................................................179 Getting around Hamburg ..................140 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .........162 Discovering Nightlife in Berlin........................................171 Fast Facts: Berlin ...........157 Bus tours........................................................................................139 Saving money with a museum pass.........................182 Dining in Hamburg .................172 Chapter 13: Hamburg........................................................160 Shopping in eastern Berlin .............179 Taking a bus tour .................................................................132 The top restaurants.....169 Finding tourist information .........................................................................................................170 Dining at Sanssouci........................................................................159 If you have two days in Berlin ........................133 The best cafes ..159 If you have three days in Berlin ........137 xv Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin ........................175 Getting there....................................................................................................................162 Finding out what’s happening ......................................................158 Boat tours ...............Table of Contents Dining Out .........................................................................................................165 Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci ............... Bremen...................................................163 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music....170 Discovering the top attractions ......................139 Sightseeing in Berlin ...............

................................................................236 Exploring Weimar....... 3rd Edition Shopping in Hamburg.......... Leipzig......................................................................................232 Discovering nightlife in Leipzig......194 Exploring Bremen ..................................210 Seeing Dresden by guided tour ......214 Exploring Dresden .................226 Staying in Leipzig ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................240 .............................................................................191 A Side Trip: Bremen .............................................210 Getting around Dresden...............xvi Germany For Dummies.......210 Orienting yourself ..................... and Weimar: Jewels of the East...........................................................194 Finding information and taking a tour ........229 Shopping in Leipzig ...........207 Getting there.................212 Dining in Dresden.......200 Orienting yourself ......................................................................................223 Getting there..........................191 Living it up after dark in Hamburg....................................196 Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own ......217 Shopping in Dresden .....................194 Getting to Bremen......................237 Exploring the Thuringian Forest .....................................................201 Getting around Lübeck............................................................................................................................................................................233 Getting there..........203 Chapter 14: Dresden..........221 Discovering nightlife in Dresden..........................207 Dresden: Florence on the Elbe .........................226 Getting around Leipzig ........................................................................................................................200 Finding information and taking a walking tour ..198 Getting there.................212 Staying in Dresden .................................................................................................................201 Dining in Lübeck ..........................234 Staying in Weimar .................234 Dining in Weimar........................194 Dining in Bremen......202 Walking through Lübeck ..............................................................................234 Finding information and taking a tour ....................................201 Staying in Lübeck........................................208 Finding information ..................................................................................................................................................224 Finding information and taking a tour ...226 Dining in Leipzig..........................228 Exploring Leipzig ............................................................................222 Leipzig: City of Heroes...........233 Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment..........

.......................................286 Exploring Würzburg...........246 By train...............247 Getting Around Munich ..250 Catching a cab...................................278 Shopping for Local Treasures............................277 Seeing Munich by Guided Tour ................286 Staying in Würzburg ....................................................................................241 Discovering nightlife in Weimar ...........................................................286 Dining in Würzburg..........258 Dining Out .................................................................247 Finding Information After You Arrive .......................................................................241 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany.................................................................................................................................282 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria .......................................281 Checking out bars and clubs ...........................................................................................................................281 Fast Facts: Munich ...........................................288 Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg .............247 Orienting Yourself in Munich..266 Sightseeing in Munich .246 By car .................................................292 ...280 Discovering Nightlife in Munich......285 Würzburg: Franconian Fortress.....................................................................243 Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit...................291 Finding information ....................................................252 Staying in Style .....................281 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music..............Table of Contents xvii Shopping in Weimar..............................................................245 Getting There........................................................................................................................250 Using public transportation ...........................................286 Finding information ..........284 The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria ............267 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z ...........................................................................................................................260 The best beer gardens ..............................................................................................285 Getting there.......................246 By plane ...252 The top hotels ...............................259 The top restaurants...............................290 Getting there.................................................................267 Finding more cool things to see and do...................................................................................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories ............................................................................252 Runner-up hotels ............

......................302 Finding information .....312 Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau ........................................................................304 Exploring Füssen....296 Exploring Augsburg ..........................................302 Staying in Füssen .............................................................................299 Getting there...............305 Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen....297 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air ...................................................................................................................................................................308 Discovering the local nightlife .................306 Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen .........................328 ..........302 Getting there..............................................................292 Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber .....................308 A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles...................299 Exploring Neuschwanstein ............................320 Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town ........293 Shopping in Rothenburg ........300 Dining near the castles.....................................................................294 Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance...................292 Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber...................296 Dining in Augsburg .........................................................296 Staying in Augsburg..............306 Ascending the Zugspitze.........................................................................................305 Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen..................294 Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg....311 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ............................................304 Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze...............305 Finding information ............xviii Germany For Dummies.311 Lindau: Sunny island charmer ...........294 Getting there................305 Getting there........................................................................................................................................... 3rd Edition Staying in Rothenburg..309 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights..................................................302 Dining in Füssen .......302 Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road .................................................................................................295 Finding information and taking a tour .......318 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest).......................................................................................................299 Exploring Hohenschwangau..........299 Finding information and buying tickets ...........................................................305 Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen ...322 Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books.........................................

.............350 Dining in Stuttgart.........................................................347 Living it up after dark in Heidelberg...................................................350 Exploring Stuttgart ..........................................................................................360 Shopping in Nuremberg .366 Getting there...... Stuttgart...............347 A Side Trip to Stuttgart......................................372 Exploring Cologne.......................363 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine .......................................................................................354 Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth...........350 Stuttgart performing arts.....................................356 Orienting yourself ............368 Getting oriented ............................................ and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers...............................................356 Getting around Nuremberg...........................348 Getting to Stuttgart.....356 Staying in Nuremberg .................................................................................................................365 Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine ...............................379 ..........................................................................358 Exploring Nuremberg ...................................337 Heidelberg: Romance on the River ..........................................................................337 Getting there...............354 Getting there...........357 Dining in Nuremberg .........................344 Shopping in Heidelberg..........................................353 Shopping in Stuttgart ..............................................................................................363 Living it up after dark in Nuremberg .....379 Discovering nightlife in Cologne ..........................................................................375 Shopping in Cologne....................355 Finding information and taking a tour ...........342 Exploring Heidelberg.........340 Dining in Heidelberg .................................................................................................366 Finding information .......................368 Staying in Cologne .....................................................................................................................................................Table of Contents xix Chapter 18: Heidelberg...........................338 Orienting yourself .........................................338 Finding information ............338 Taking a guided tour..........................................................................................................340 Staying in Heidelberg..................368 Getting around ..340 Getting around Heidelberg ..........................................370 Dining in Cologne................................................350 Finding information and taking a tour ........................................................

........................390 Taking a taxi........................397 Walking through the city...................................................406 Checking out bars and clubs .....................................413 Seasons and Elements .......................................................412 Directions.................................413 Time ..................................................................407 Part V: The Part of Tens ...................................................................388 By train...............406 Fast Facts: Frankfurt .................................................................389 By car ...................403 Porcelain ......................................................................................412 Entertainment and Attractions .......................411 Accommodations .....405 Discovering Nightlife in Frankfurt..................................................405 Having fun at a cabaret ............................................................................................................................412 Colors ...................................388 By plane ....414 ..............................397 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z ..............389 Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt.........411 Basic Words and Phrases.........................................................................................................412 Numbers......................................................................................398 Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour ...............................392 Staying in Style ......................................................381 Touring the valley by boat or car .......................382 Stopping in Cochem .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................405 Raising the curtain on the performing arts ...........................412 Days of the Week ...................................403 Department stores.................................................................................................................392 Dining Out ....................................................................................385 Getting There............................................................................................................389 Finding Information After You Arrive ........................................403 Shopping for Local Treasures....................... Beautiful Scenery ..................................413 Transportation ..389 Getting Around Frankfurt....................413 Warning Signs .....................xx Germany For Dummies................................. 3rd Edition The Mosel Valley: Great Wines............................................................................382 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros....................................................394 Sightseeing in Frankfurt ...........390 Using public transportation .............409 Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons..................

................................................................430 Index ............433 ..........418 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München.............415 Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa........................422 Eiswein ......................................................................428 Where to Get More Information .......................420 Deutscher Landwein ...................427 Major car-rental agencies operating in Germany..........................................................420 Deutscher Tafelwein .....................................................428 Major hotel chains in Germany..415 Der Kleine Prinz......................... Berlin ..........................................................................................420 Tafelwein ..........423 Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites .....................................................416 Excelsior Hotel Ernst........................................418 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe............ Dresden ................................................417 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg .....................................417 Hotel Eisenhut.....................................................421 Auslese .................................................... Cologne.....................422 Appendix: Quick Concierge ............................................................................................................................................ Berlin ................................... Baden-Baden....................429 Surfing the Net......................421 Spätlese .............................429 Contacting regional tourist boards ................................................422 Beerenauslese...............416 Hotel Adlon Kempinski....................422 Trockenbeerenauslese ..........................427 Major airlines serving Germany.................................................................................................419 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ......418 Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz.............421 Kabinett ........................................420 Qualitätswein....................................................... Heidelberg .............................423 Fast Facts .................................................................421 Prädikatswein . Nuremberg ................................... Rothenburg .....................................................................................................417 Kempinski Hotel Bristol....................Table of Contents xxi Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels .........................

3rd Edition .xxii Germany For Dummies.

the location of the country’s great ports. the exciting capital of a reunified republic? Elegant. you find a flat maritime landscape. one of the largest lakes in Europe. the city where most Germans would live if they could? The great port city of Hamburg? The romantic university town of Heidelberg? Are there specific landscapes you want to see. the emphasis is on fresh seafood. The sunny southwest is where you find the Bodensee. which shares a border with France. or specific attractions do you want to see? Berlin. with Luxembourg. Situated in the very heart of Europe. where the peaks are tipped with snow until May. Germany isn’t a huge country — on a superfast train you can buzz from Berlin in the north to Munich in the south in about seven hours — but exciting cities and scenic sightseeing possibilities pack the terrain. or Leipzig. France bounds Germany to the southwest. Regional differences also extend to food and architecture. In the southwest. fun-loving Munich. such as the Bavarian Alps or the Rhine Valley? Did you know that one of the most beautiful scenic drives in Europe is along Germany’s aptly named Romantic Road? What castles and cathedrals would you like to visit? The fairy-tale castles built by King Ludwig of Bavaria are the most famous and popular attractions in Germany. and the Netherlands to the west and the Czech Republic and Poland to the east. Drive or take the train a couple of hours east and you’re in the Bavarian Alps. In the west. Discovering the special regional differences within Germany will help to deepen your understanding and experiences of the country. The sheer size of Cologne Cathedral. too. every crag in the Rhine Valley seems to have its own romantic legend — or carefully tended vineyard. the largest church north of the Alps. and the forested hills of the scenic Schwarzwald (Black Forest). regions. French cuisine is a major part of the dining scene. And how about other historic sites? Do you want to visit Weimar. near Germany’s coastline. The sober brick architecture that predominates in the far north gives way to exuberant baroque churches and palaces in the south. Wunderbar! But what parts of Deutschland (Germany) do you want to visit? Because of this country’s many offerings. So what cities. Germany stretches from the Alps in the south to Denmark and the Baltic and North seas in the north.Introduction S o you’re going to Germany. where Goethe lived. will dazzle your senses. where Bach conducted? Do you want to stroll down Frankfurt’s . Every city or region has its own version of sausage and its favorite local wines and beers. In the far north. In the north. Belgium. Dramatic regional differences exist in the German landscape. answering that question isn’t always easy.

Therefore. Germany has so much that is really worth seeing that you don’t need to waste your time with the second-rate. In this guide. I help you choose from among its many highlights to create the best trip for you. so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Together. you can flip to the specific part you need or hone in on one specific chapter. Use Germany For Dummies as a reference guide. About This Book This is a selective guidebook to Germany. however. In this book. I chose only what I consider to be the best and most essential places for visitors. this guidebook is for you. purse. 3rd Edition Zeil. From an enormous list of possibilities.2 Germany For Dummies. the busiest shopping street in Germany? Are you interested in seeing eastern Germany now that the border is open between east and west? The eastern city of Dresden. Germany. Keep a close eye on your camera. you and Germany For Dummies can plan a wunderschöne Reise (wonderful journey). start at the first page and read all the way through to the end. I suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. editors. Dummies Post-it® Flags As you’re reading this book. Your safety is important to us. is one of the great art cities of Europe. I exclude places that other. and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. and wallet. you’ll find information that you’ll want to reference as you plan or enjoy your trip — whether it be a new hotel. of course. If you’re new to this part of the world. The author. the overrated. all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. But. or the boring. more exhaustive guidebooks routinely include. has an embarrassment of riches. or a musttry walking tour. Mark these pages with the handy Post-it® Flags that are included in this book to help make your trip planning easier! . as you can see. if you’ve already been to Germany and know the basics of international travel. a must-see attraction. You can. I bypass places that are difficult to reach or of interest only to a scholar or specialist. Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time — and this is especially true of prices. after all.

followed by an English translation. . Foolish Assumptions I make some assumptions about you. entree. and dessert). I’m happy to report that the user-friendly Germany For Dummies is not like that. I employ a system of dollar signs ($) to show a range of costs for one night in a hotel (double room. the currency that replaced the Deutsche Mark in 2002. The exchange rate used throughout is 1€ = $1. year-round) or a meal at a restaurant (appetizer. The use of symbols and abbreviations is kept to a minimum. Take a look at the following list for an explanation of each: AE: American Express DC: Diners Club DISC: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa I also include some general pricing information to help you decide where to unpack your bags or dine on the local cuisine. lieber Leser (dear reader). In addition to giving you exact prices. I also provide a phonetic pronunciation. restaurants. Check out the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ Hotel $125 and less $126 to $175 $176 to $225 $226 and more Restaurant $20 and less $21 to $30 $31 to $40 $41 and more Prices in this guide for hotels. I include abbreviations for commonly accepted credit cards. including: ߜ You may be an experienced traveler who hasn’t had much time to explore Germany and wants expert advice when you finally do get a chance to enjoy that particular locale. I first give the name of a sight in German. If the word is one that you may be using.Introduction 3 Conventions Used in This Book I recently tried to extract some information from a guidebook and felt that I needed training in hieroglyphics to interpret all the different symbols. and services are given in euros (€). attractions. and then converted into dollars.25.

The next two parts of the book are devoted to the major sights and cities within northern and eastern Germany and western and southern Germany. lay out your options for airlines and how to get the best airfares and book money-saving package tours. is contained in this part. I also deal with pretrip loose ends. Along with providing a basic orientation. from passports to buying medical insurance. advice. ߜ You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available about Germany or that lists every hotel. Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany This part helps take some of the wrinkles out of the trip-planning stage. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany All you need to know about Berlin. provide a calendar of events. This overview gives you the big picture. 3rd Edition ߜ You may be an inexperienced traveler (but you’re definitely not a Dummkopf) who is looking for guidance when determining whether to take a trip to Germany and how to plan for it. you’re looking for a book that focuses on the places that will give you the best or most unique experience in Germany. then Germany For Dummies gives you the information you’re looking for! How This Book Is Organized The book is broken down into five parts. and beer. so if you want to zero in on a specific city or area — Munich. If you fit any of these criteria. restaurant. I talk about handling money and give you some sound advice on planning a realistic budget. tell you about German food.4 Germany For Dummies. gay and lesbian travelers. I point out the best hotels and restaurants and the top attractions to the . travelers with disabilities. The first two parts deal with trip planning and organization. and present you with some possible itineraries. wine. Instead. rental car) to use to get around the country and explains what kind of accommodations you can expect for your money. Part I: Introducing Germany This first part introduces Germany and gives you some excellent reasons for going there. The individual chapters help you decide when to visit and what to see. I help you to understand and deepen your knowledge of the culture. and suggestions that can help you map out a wonderful holiday. or attraction. and explain the kinds of guided tours that are available. This part helps you to decide what form of transportation (train. I provide special tips for Germany-bound travelers who may have special needs or interests: families. seniors. All of the parts can be read independently. they provide information. and Jewish travelers. Germany’s capital and most exciting city. or the Romantic Road — you can turn right to that part. say.

You find plenty to see and enjoy in “Mainhattan. the region’s cultural capital. ten great hotels. Sidetrip options from Cologne include boat rides down the mighty Rhine. these remarkable showcases of art and culture are now “open for business. with the oldest university in Germany and the brooding ruins of a mighty castle.Introduction 5 east and west and all around this remarkable city. Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Munich. is also where you find Hamburg.” I tell you how to take a boat trip from Dresden into a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland. Leipzig. My “tens” include ten lessons on the German language. Stuttgart. The next chapter goes beyond Munich but stays in Bavaria. I provide information on how to get there. Here I describe the principal cities and attractions found along the Romantic Road. and Bremen. I also visit the great eastern German cities of Dresden. from designer skyscrapers and great museums to distinctive applewine taverns. with an additional side trip to Linderhof. bordering on the North Sea and the Baltic. and Nuremberg. In this part. Germany’s largest port city. gets a chapter of its own. and sights I want you to know about. with its castles and vineyards. gets a big chapter of its own.” as Frankfurt is known. a bustling city that offers an array of historic sights. and what to see. a picturesque city of Gothic church spires and ancient brick buildings. I also include an easy trip to Nymphenburg Palace and the moving memorial at Dachau. . to the lively Rhine-side city of Cologne. with its world-famous cathedral and array of first-class museums. one of Germany’s principal winegrowing areas. Difficult to visit during the Communist years. another castle-fantasy of King Ludwig. From the southwest I head farther north. I cover three important cities in southwestern Germany: Heidelberg. Part V: The Part of Tens The Part of Tens enables me to focus a little more attention on extraspecial places. how to get around. a scenic driving tour that begins in Würzburg and ends at Neuschwanstein. I also include a description of the memorial at Buchenwald concentration camp near Weimar and an overview of touring options in the Thuringian Forest. Staying south but moving west. including the palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam. and ten things to know about German wine. Then I tell you about side-trip options from Hamburg: Lübeck. with the busiest international airport in Germany. topics. I also introduce you to the Bavarian towns of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. Frankfurt. from the mighty harbor to the lurid Reeperbahn (where uncoverage may better describe the sights). and Weimar. I hit the Hamburg highlights. Northern Germany. one of Germany’s most attractive cities. and down the equally picturesque Mosel River. plus a selection of great hotels and special restaurants. Germany’s “secret capital” and most popular big city. King Ludwig of Bavaria’s fairytale castle in the Bavarian Alps.

shopping. too. Traveling with children? Keep your eyes peeled for this icon. but I love to save money. I hope you’ll think of me as your guide or companion on this journey to Germany. In this appendix. activities. If you do see one. car-rental agencies. I want you to be aware of something such as a scam that can cost you money. and hotel chains serving Germany. 3rd Edition Easily found on the yellow pages at the back of this book is a Quick Concierge Appendix with an A-to-Z list of fast facts. and places of special interest. so you won’t find too many of these icons. of course! How you want to use this guide is up to you. You can start at the beginning and read the book straight through to the end. The Best of the Best icon highlights the best the destination has to offer in all categories — hotels. All this is followed by a few helpful worksheets to help make your trip planning easier. Icons Used in This Book In the margins. like how the telephone system works and what numbers to call in an emergency. which is sure to be wunderbar. I’m not cheap. and nightlife. and I suspect it may be yours. The Tip icon highlights useful bits of information that can save you time or enhance your travel experience. restaurants. A Tip icon alerts you to something that you may not otherwise consider or even know about. You see this icon every time I tell you about something that can save you cash. or attractions that welcome children or that kids actually enjoy. you also find a list of toll-free telephone numbers and Web sites for airlines. attractions. little pictures that point out helpful trip-planning details or items that are just for fun. . I’m not an alarmist. which points out hotels. Where to Go from Here To Germany. restaurants. Or you can start anywhere in between and extract information as you want or need it. personalities.6 Germany For Dummies. as well as resources for locating additional information on specific cities or areas. Bargain Alert is my favorite icon. you find six different icons. This icon points out tidbits about German culture. or a hazardous situation.

Part I Introducing Germany .

In Chapter 4. the most scenic landscapes. In Chapter 3. Chapter 1 introduces you to the best Germany has to offer — the most exciting cities. and a list of recommended books and movies. . Chapter 2 helps you to understand the country and its culture by giving an overview of its history. I present four possible itineraries for visitors who want to sample a wide range of sights.W In this part . and the most interesting attractions. . . an introduction to its architecture and cuisine. here to begin? This part lays the groundwork for your trip to Germany. I tell you more about the places included in the book and discuss scheduling your trip so you can decide where and when to go.

I discuss each of these places . have German ancestors. or a giant beer hall with an oom-pah-pah band — and you want to check it out for yourself. and ballet G ermany holds a special fascination for travelers. like millions of others. and you want to explore their home turf. by the thousands. Munich. In the categories that I outline. and gift stalls of Christmas markets. and Heidelberg. or Berlin. This land of contrasting cities. and conversation are afternoon staples. And don’t forget the retail: Great shopping opportunities abound year-round in Berlin. Then there’s the culture: Every midsize-to-large German city has at least one art museum. the main squares in Germany’s smaller cities glitter and glow with the lights. at the airports in Frankfurt. and Cologne.Chapter 1 Discovering the Best of Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Experiencing the greatest cities ᮣ Exploring romantic landscapes ᮣ Discovering legendary castles and palaces ᮣ Visiting smaller towns and cities ᮣ Enjoying world-class classical music. a tradition that dates back hundreds of years. and moods appeals to visitors for many different reasons. Or perhaps you have an image of Germany in your mind — a castle on a hilltop. Hamburg. opera. cake. you’ll find some of the things that make traveling in Germany such a fascinating experience. will find that the club/bar/disco scene in Germany is hot. not only in large cities like Berlin and Munich but also in smaller university towns like Cologne. too. and an opera house. Some visitors come for the chance to drink fullbodied German beer. You’ll find as many different reasons to visit Germany as there are tourists who arrive daily. Perhaps you. Clubbers. During the Christmas season. food. This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the “Best of the Best” — that Germany has to offer. a symphony orchestra. making a visit to Germany a feast for those who enjoy world-class art and music. others come to enjoy a cosmopolitan cafe culture where coffee. a palace in a landscaped garden. Leipzig. landscapes. Munich.

you can easily reach it all by subway. fascinating architecture. riverside promenades. and its vibrant contemporaryarts scene gives it a hefty dose of sophistication. or bus. Discovering the Best Big German Cities Germany’s top cities offer a wealth of diversions. Germany’s most amazing architectural reconstruction effort. Germany’s largest city and new capital has become an international superstar. as simple or as sophisticated as you want. you’ll feel it. and fun-loving. Germany’s third-largest city after Berlin and Munich. is one of the most attractive and intriguing cities in western Germany. bustling pedestrian-only quarters. ߜ Dresden (Chapter 14) reigns as the treasure house of eastern Germany. Berlin (Chapters 11 and 12) always has a major-league buzz. streetcar. with its soaring cathedral. great shopping. ߜ With its endlessly dramatic history and cache of cultural and artistic riches. ߜ Hamburg (Chapter 13). with countless cultural diversions and a kind of urban magic that snares the hearts of millions of visitors each year. and Rhine-side setting. first-rate museums. ߜ Munich (Chapter 15) is a southern German city where the urban pleasures are as soft and sweet as Schlagsahne (whipped cream) on a rich slab of cake or as exuberant as an oom-pah-pah band in a giant beer hall during Oktoberfest. and plenty of picturesque corners just waiting to be discovered. The pulse of Berlin is felt throughout Europe. And thanks to Germany’s excellent public-transportation systems. But since 1989. and the reconstructed Frauenkirche. yields plenty of pleasant surprises. too. including a fine lineup of museums and great shopping on Germany’s busiest shopping street. sophisticated. The capital of Bavaria is sensuous. cuisine of all kinds. Cologne’s carnival is the biggest and brashest in the country. has the liveliness and lustiness of a big port and the sophistication of a wealthy European metropolis. ߜ Frankfurt (Chapter 20). the riches of the Green Vault. You’ll find world-class museums. ߜ Cologne (Chapter 19). . when the wall separating East Germany and West Germany came down. the Zeil. marked with — what else? — a “Best of the Best” icon. You’ll also find elegant boulevards. The “Queen of the North” presides over a beautiful setting on the Alster Lake but is notorious for her erotically charged entertainment district called the Reeperbahn. with its bevy of designer skyscrapers. enormous parks and green spaces. you can find them in their indicated chapters. The old capital of Saxony is where you find the worldfamous Zwinger palace/museum complex. and plenty of nightlife. music. the Kurfürstendamm and Unter den Linden.10 Part I: Introducing Germany and experiences in detail later in this book. and when you’re walking down Berlin’s two most famous avenues.

ߜ Perhaps the most dramatic of all German landscapes is the Bavarian Alps. Germany offers a wealth of sightseeing possibilities. ߜ The Rheingau wine district (Chapter 19). is like a bit of the Mediterranean. where rocky cliffs rise dramatically above the Elbe River.000 years. The country’s highest mountain. both great and small. and scenic lookouts. with semitropical gardens and an almost Italian languor. many of them full of art treasures. and car. As a result. and from the winegrowing Rhine Valley in the west to the high. where you find lakes. princes. ߜ With its fruit trees and vineyards growing on sunny. duchies. is like a northern extension of Italy. dukes. ߜ The Bodensee (Chapter 17). Roman ruins. towers above the alpine resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Chapter 16). such as Lorelei rock. rocky cliffs along the Elbe in the east. Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces At one time.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 11 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes Landscapes of fabled beauty and scenic splendor are found throughout Germany. and vast estates. ߜ From Dresden you can easily explore a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland (Chapter 14). medieval castles. between Trier and Koblenz. has been a wine-producing region for upwards of 2. ߜ Cruises down the mighty River Rhine (Chapter 19) take you past castle-crowned crags and legendary sights. is a scenic winegrowing region encompassing thousands of acres of vineyards. and prince-bishops. hiking trails. ߜ Sophisticated health spas and recreational activities abound in the forest-clad mountains of the Black Forest (Chapter 17). and views of them are accessible by train. From the majesty of the Bavarian Alps in the south to the sandy beaches of the Baltic Sea in the north. and all of them open to the public. from Koblenz south to Alsace. Germany is loaded with a fascinating collection of castles and palaces. the Rhine Valley (Chapter 19). west of Mainz and Wiesbaden. the Zugspitze. ߜ The Mosel Valley (Chapter 19). ruled over by an assortment of kings. Germany was a conglomeration of regional kingdoms. . sheltered slopes. offering a remarkable medley of small medieval towns set within a gorgeous Bavarian landscape of river valley and mountain meadow. boat. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. ߜ The Romantic Road (Chapter 16) is the most romantic byway of all. found along a lovely 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine. an enormous lake near Germany’s sunny southwestern border.

because it suffered almost no damage during World War II (WWII). Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities Germany is remarkable for its attractive smaller towns and cities. ߜ For many visitors. the Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) is famed for its superb ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo. scattered like gemstones around the country. ߜ An easy daytrip from Hamburg. With their precious paintings. right in the heart of the city (see Chapter 15 for both). indeed. Frederick the Great’s 18th-century rococo palace in Potsdam. In these historic hamlets. Neuschwanstein and Linderhof (see Chapter 16 for both) are preserved almost exactly as they were during Ludwig’s lifetime.12 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to several museums and staterooms that can be visited on guided tours. in part. ߜ Perched on its crag high above Heidelberg. you’ll find a very different Germany. is remarkable. the amazing Zwinger Palace in Dresden (Chapter 14) is now an unparalleled showcase for old master paintings and porcelain treasures. but it remains an impressive sight even in its semiruined state. You can easily visit Sanssouci and its beautiful grounds on a daytrip from Berlin. the quintessential image associated with Germany is a castle on a hilltop. Brimming with the flavors of the past. ߜ Sanssouci (Chapter 12). featuring brilliant Renaissance-era woodcarvings by Tilman Riemenschneider. many of them located less than an hour’s train ride from a major metropolis. ߜ Carefully reconstructed after WWII. You do. the Marienburg crowns the vineyard-covered slopes above Würzburg and today houses the Mainfränkische Museum (Chapter 16). ߜ For sheer. over-the-top opulence. and furniture. ߜ Nymphenburg Palace on the outskirts of Munich is another kingsize showplace and so is the gigantic Residenz. ߜ A palace that doubled as a fortress. So many architectural gems are located here that the entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a place judged . Ruined castles dot the landscape of the Rhine (Chapter 19) and enhance its romantic appeal. you can easily savor them as daytrips. these stately homes reveal aspects of German life and the monarchy that lasted up until 1918. porcelains. nothing can compare to the fairy-tale castles built in the 19th century by Ludwig II of Bavaria. ߜ Used by the powerful prince-bishops until 1806. find castles scattered throughout the country. lovely Lübeck (Chapter 13) epitomizes the maritime culture and redbrick architecture of northern Germany. Heidelberg Castle (Chapter 18) suffered from war and fire.

ߜ Located in the Bavarian Alps near Neuschwanstein Castle. is a walled medieval city loaded with picturesque charm. and provides a glimpse into 18th-century German life and culture. according to the United Nations agency that promotes education and the arts. Füssen (Chapter 16) invites you to stroll along its cobblestone streets past stone houses and a rushing mountain river. Naziera rallies. The garden-island of Mainau is a short ferry ride away. Enjoying the Best in Classical Music. are reasonably priced. a marvelous little island-city in the Bodensee (Lake Constance). one of the most attractive midsize German cities. and ballet will find that Germany is a gold mine. enchants visitors with its romantic setting. intriguing architecture. historic streets. was a cradle of the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. and Ballet Lovers of classical music. ߜ Lindau (Chapter 17). Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) offers an extraordinary range of spa treatments during the day and elegant gaming rooms at night. and the second-largest beer festival after Munich. ߜ Heidelberg (Chapter 18). ߜ Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is an important center of the German Renaissance that later became an infamous locale for huge. an old university town on the Neckar River. including grand opera. This small. . Tickets for musical events. Remnants and reminders from both eras are plentiful in Nuremberg. in eastern Germany. is the arts and culture capital of southwestern Germany. ߜ A stop on the Romantic Road or an easy daytrip from Munich. a 40-minute train ride from Heidelberg. unspoiled hamlet was home to Goethe and Schiller. flower-filled charm that’s perfect for lazing away a day or two. opera. a major highlight along the Romantic Road. has a sunny. and the quality of musical performance is extraordinarily high. with major art collections.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 13 to be of exceptional cultural value. You can walk along the old city walls of this perfectly preserved gem and stroll down streets that haven’t changed much in hundreds of years. ߜ One of the most sophisticated spa towns in Europe. ߜ Weimar (Chapter 14). Opera. and enormous castle. ߜ Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Chapter 16). Augsburg (Chapter 16) is full of historic panache and architectural surprises. including Renaissance-era palaces and the oldest almshouse in Germany. among others. ߜ Stuttgart (Chapter 18).

the Hamburg Ballet. but the company still performs at the State Theater. ߜ The city of Leipzig (Chapter 14) is home to the world-renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra and the acclaimed Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera). ߜ Up north. . and three opera houses that share their stages with resident ballet companies. or hearing a concert by the Dresden Philharmonic. ߜ The Stuttgart Ballet in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) hit international stardom in the 1970s when John Cranko took over the company. while the magnificent Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra) performs in the Philharmonic Hall. ߜ A visit to Dresden (Chapter 14) can be made even more memorable by an evening at the Semperoper (Semper Opera House). and so does the Staatsoper (State Opera). ߜ In Munich (Chapter 15). the Rhineland’s leading opera house. and two fine orchestras — the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker (Cologne Philharmonic) and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra) — perform in the Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. Cologne (Chapter 19) has an amazing array of musical offerings. Hamburg (Chapter 13) plays host to the Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). one of the great cultural centers of Germany. Cranko is gone. as does the Frankfurt Philharmonic. Major artists appear at the Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). including the famed Berlin Philharmonic. and three highly-regarded orchestras. ߜ For a city of its size. conducted by Sir Simon Rattle. one of the world’s great opera houses. the brilliant Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) shares the National Theater stage with its ballet company. Leipzig celebrates its most famous citizen — the composer Johann Sebastian Bach.14 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to three major symphony orchestras. who lived and worked in the city for more than 40 years — with the yearly Bachfest. ߜ Opera Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt gives a big musical boost to Frankfurt (Chapter 20).

D. the empire of the Franks represented the transition from a loose conglomeration of German tribes into what eventually would become the German Empire.Chapter 2 Digging Deeper into Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Perusing the main events in Germany’s history ᮣ Recognizing Germany’s architectural heritage ᮣ Discovering German food. Following the Roman withdrawal from Germany in A. 768–814) was responsible for the earliest large-scale attempt to unite the lands of Germany under one ruler. Mainz. quick sense of the major epochs. beer. . and Trier. whet your appetite with a primer on German food and drink. 400. and wine ᮣ Finding books and movies about Germany T his chapter helps you find out more about Germany and deepens your experience of the country. and recommend some excellent books and movies about Germany. Charlemagne (Karl der Grosse.D. with garrisons established at Cologne (Chapter 19). the Roman sphere of influence extended well into the borders of present-day Germany.. The following list highlights the main trends in German history: ߜ Early history: Prehistoric humans hunted in the Rhine and Neckar valleys of present-day Germany. How a civilized European nation slipped into the state of barbaric inhumanity that existed during Nazism’s rise and WWII is a question that continues to occupy historians and survivors and haunt the Germans themselves. By the first century A. The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History Germany’s long and tumultuous history remains clouded by the horrors of World War II (WWII). I distill the essence of Germany’s complicated and tumultuous past so you can get a clear. Koblenz. I highlight the main architectural trends.

the Catholic Church launched a Counter-Reformation that culminated in the bloody Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). Napoleon occupied several German cities and abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. Because of the weakness of central authority. Germany remained a collection of small principalities and free cities. the Great War (1914–1918) represented a German attempt to dominate Europe. the so-called Weimar government (1919–1934) represented a break in dominant traditions of German history. 1740–1786). After defeating the Austrian and Prussian armies. became first chancellor of the German Empire (Reich). which was followed by the decisive Battle of Waterloo. the Austrian Hapsburg monarchy reimposed its sovereignty over Prussia and other parts of Germany. During the “Golden Twenties. ߜ World War I and Weimar: For many observers. ߜ The Reformation.” Berlin — capital of the republic — blossomed into Germany’s economic and cultural center. In its attempt to establish a democratic and republican government. Prussian. writers. while fighting on the western front ultimately led to German defeat and the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II. the country’s military and political rulers were determined to return to a system of absolute monarchy. the Enlightenment. and until the demise of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. Prussia gained status as a great European power. When that effort failed. Prussian statesman Otto von Bismarck (1815–1898) advocated consolidation of the German people under Prussian leadership. composers. The question of independence and national unity finally came to a head in the 1848 revolution. In 1813. Military conflict on the eastern front resulted in the defeat of Russia. An upswing in international commerce from the 11th to 13th centuries led to the foundation of “Free Imperial Cities” like Hamburg and Lübeck (see Chapter 13 for both). Bismarck succeeded in winning over southern German states and. . Martin Luther (1483–1546) battled against the excesses of the Catholic Church. it resulted in severe food shortages throughout the country and intensified political unrest. During this period. As Protestant Reformation spread. and Napoleon: The 16th century was a time of social unrest and religious upheaval throughout Germany. Although the war wasn’t fought on German soil. After triumphs in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871). and Russian armies fought the French emperor in Leipzig. and philosophers ushered in the Age of Enlightenment. pitting the Protestant north against the Catholic south and affecting the whole of Europe. in 1871. various German tribal duchies sought to build their own autonomy. and his work had far-reaching implications. the works of German artists. ߜ Revolution and the Reich: Following Napoleon’s defeat. Residual issues from war and hostility from conservative groups conflicted with reformist and radical impulses of the left and cultural avant-garde. Under Frederick the Great (Friedrich der Grosse.16 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ The Middle Ages: The power struggles and invasions of the Middle Ages continually disrupted the unity hammered out by Charlemagne. Austrian.

thousands of German Jews. with its major cities in smoldering ruins. and imperialistic attitudes also provided a ripe environment for the National Socialist Party to take control. and the Soviet-ruled German Democratic Republic (GDR) in the eastern half had its capital in East Berlin. the site of Nazi-architect Albert Speer’s enormous Congress Hall has been reclaimed as the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Rally Grounds Documentation Center) with a brilliantly informative exhibit that chronicles the rise and fall of the National Socialists. and other groups that were murdered by the National Socialists between 1933 and 1945. As the brutal anti-Semitic political agenda of Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) became apparent. West German recovery got underway with U. the most comprehensive of its kind. Gypsies (Sinta. including many prominent artists. economic.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 17 Remembering the Nazi-era past Germany’s Nazi-era past and the enormity of crimes committed during World War II are facts that can’t be glossed over or overlooked. Berlin (Chapter 12) is particularly rich in memorials commemorating the hundreds of thousands of Jews. nationalistic. which continued until 1949.S. assistance in the form of the Marshall Plan. but old authoritarian. In 1961. ߜ Germany reunited: The opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989 marked for East Germany the culmination of a wave of previously . The Soviet blockade of West Berlin resulted in the Anglo-American Berlin airlift. and Dachau (Chapter 15). ߜ The two Germanys: Intending at first to govern conquered Germany as one unit. scientists. sealing off East Berlin from West Berlin. In 1948. walking tours take visitors past Nazi-era buildings and exhibits that interpret Nazi methods. Millions of Jews and other “undesirable” minorities throughout Germany and the rest of Nazi-occupied Europe were systematically exterminated in one of the most horrifying chapters in world history. in German). fled the country to escape persecution. Germany ceased to exist as an independent state. gays. Germany’s Jewish past is the subject of Berlin’s remarkable Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). In Nuremberg (Chapter 18). ߜ The rise of Nazism and World War II: Economic crisis in Germany was a major factor in the rise of the Nazi movement. At the end of the war. near the eastern German town of Weimar. See Chapter 12 for information on walking tours that focus on Berlin’s Nazi and Jewish histories. northwest of Munich. and politicians. You can also visit the courtroom in Nuremberg where Nazi officials were tried after the war. and social systems. Two Germanys developed with highly different political. The Federal Republic of Germany in the western half of the country had its capital in Bonn. In Berlin. the Berlin Wall was constructed. The most wrenching memorials of that gruesome chapter of German history are the concentration camps Buchenwald (Chapter 14). the war’s victors divided it into two states as the Cold War intensified.

such as the medieval towns along the Romantic Road (see Chapter 16). Some areas escaped damage. built of brick. orderly repeating lines. clear forms. The Dom St. ߜ Gothic (13th–16th centuries): Cologne Cathedral (Chapter 19) is Germany’s greatest example of Gothic architecture. a building style adapted from much earlier Roman models. Berlin was made the nation’s new capital. is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Germany. Kilian in Würzburg (Chapter 16). Compared to Romanesque. The baroque flourished in Catholic. but the overall devastation affected nearly the entire country. In 1991. Counter-Reformation areas in the south of Germany. Reforms by Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev and underground. this style is slender and daring. Many historic buildings are painstaking postwar reconstructions. Stalinist government of the GDR. soaring vaults and spires. with East and West Germany united under one government. Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture Buildings that you can visit on a trip to Germany span some 1. Many interesting examples of Romanesque architecture are found in western Germany. Bombing raids in WWII left much of the country’s rich architectural heritage in ruins. A simpler and more monumental kind of Gothic architecture. Angela Merkel became Germany’s first female chancellor. built from 1045 to 1188. a style characterized by calm precision. grassroots communication between citizens in East Germany led to massive demonstrations against the repressive. thick walls. particularly in Cologne (Chapter 19). In 2006. Munich (Chapter 15) abounds in the baroque.18 Part I: Introducing Germany suppressed revolutionary sentiment across central and eastern Europe. Renaissance architecture was imported from Italy into southern Germany. ߜ Renaissance (late 15th–17th centuries): Augsburg (Chapter 16) is one of the best cities in Germany to see Renaissance architecture. predominates in northern Germany in cities such as Lübeck (Chapter 13). ߜ Baroque (17th–18th centuries): A decorative exuberance in curvy baroque architecture sets it apart from the more sober Renaissance style. Here are examples from around Germany of the major architectural trends: ߜ Romanesque (10th–12th centuries): Simple. and classical decoration over windows and doors. and rounded arches signal Romanesque architecture. The Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) and palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam (Chapter 12) are two of the best examples of baroque architecture in Germany. and enormous windows.200 years of architectural history and were created in a number of different styles. . with pointed arches.

As the century wore on. and it was most popular in Berlin (see Chapter 12). The school was banned by the Nazis because it didn’t promote “German-looking” architecture. an early-20th-century European movement that emphasized flowing. where the architect Schinkel created a whole neoclassical avenue (Unter den Linden) and island of museums. ߜ Bauhaus (1913–1933): A rigorously modern style. ߜ Jugendstil (early 20th century): Jugendstil is the German name for Art Nouveau. ߜ Modernism (1948 onward): A major housing shortage and rebuilding effort in bombed cities in Germany followed the devastation of WWII. Bauhaus was championed by Walter Gropius (1883–1969). with many regional variations and specialties. created for a 1927 building exhibition. ߜ Neoclassical/Neo-Gothic (mid 18th–19th centuries): The neoclassical style was meant to be a rebuke to the excesses of baroque and rococo. It’s a simple. The famous Mädlerpassage arcade in Leipzig (Chapter 14) shows Jugendstil influence. Bauhaus museums are in Weimar (Chapter 14) and Berlin (Chapter 12). you’ll see modernist buildings all around you. asymmetrical. Seasonal specialties include Spargel (white .Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 19 ߜ Rococo (18th century): Notch up the elements of baroque and you have rococo. organic shapes. and so do many houses in the Schwabing district of Munich (Chapter 15). neoclassicism gave way to the more ponderous Neo-Gothic style. functional style with straight lines and square windows. Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany German cooking tends to be hearty and filling. and unappealing most postmodern buildings are. uninspired. James Stirling’s Neue Staatsgalerie in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) is a reminder of just how clunky. If you walk down the streets or pedestrian zones in just about any major German city. The Bauhaus style predominates in the Weissenhofsiedlung area of Stuttgart (Chapter 18). exemplified by curving walls and staggering amounts of gilded and stucco decoration. One of the most famous examples of flamboyant rococo architecture in Germany is the Wieskirche (Chapter 16) in Bavaria. who founded the Bauhaus school to create functional buildings and furnishings. ߜ Postmodernism (1980s onward): Postmodernism is a style practiced by architects who plunder the past and apply old styles to the buildings of today. This faux-medievalism is what Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein (Chapter 16) is all about. free of frills and unnecessary decoration.

When it comes to baked goods — bread and pastries — Germany has more variety than any country in the world. bottle). The most popular beer in Germany is Pils. and a beer with lunch in the factory cafeteria is taken for granted. Lager. A Bräuhaus (broy-house) serves its own brew along with local food. you can taste about 150 different types of sausage. traditional cellar restaurants beneath a city’s Rathaus (Town Hall). Erdbeeren (strawberries) in spring.” is dark and strong. and water. Märzbier (maertz-beer). malt (barley). The traditional Biergarten (beer garden). especially in southern Germany. You ask for ein Grosses (ine grow-ses). Märzbier. A proper draft beer. for a small. Export has 5 percent. with a long-lasting head of white foam. and taste all contribute to a German beer’s unique qualities. Sampling German beer Bier (pronounced beer) remains a vital part of German culture. so much so that the right to drink beer is written into some labor contracts. aging time. Forelle (trout) in the summer. Berlin. and tell the waiter or tavernkeeper whether you want ein Bier vom Fass (fum fahss. or Pilsener. with about 300 different types of bread and 1. Matjes (white herring) in June and July. according to the Germans. made from wheat. When you order a beer in Germany. for a large. always serve good and fairly inexpensive traditional food. brewed with darkly roasted malt fermented for a long period of time) or a helles Bier (light beer. and Bockbier has 6 percent. decide whether you want a dunkles Bier (dark beer.200 varieties of biscuits and cakes. Dark and sweet Malzbier (maltz-beer. Bockbier. The beer is always served cold. Vollbier (foal-beer.20 Part I: Introducing Germany asparagus) in May and June. Pils. Munich. alcoholic content. and wine. To order a beer. A German law adopted in 1516 dictates that German beer may contain no ingredients other than hops. yeast. in an appropriate beer glass or mug. you have many choices. and Reh (venison) in the fall. from the barrel) or in a Flasche (flah-shuh. In the country as a whole. malt beer) contains hardly any alcohol. or “March beer. color. . beers are light and contain more hops. Ratskellers. brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery). is a Bavarian white beer. can’t be poured in less than seven minutes to achieve the proper head. brewing temperature and technique. but not too cold. Pils. or standard beer) has 4 percent alcohol. followed by Export. Kölsch. Vollbier. and Nuremberg all have their own special kinds. Export. Malzbier. and Weizenbier. Weizenbier (vitsen-beer). The range of beer varieties includes Altbier. The ratio of ingredients. beer. is still very popular. with tables set outdoors under trees or trellises. or ein Kleines (ine kly-nis).

Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 21 Although not kind to the waistline. and Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is famous for its Lebkuchen (spice cakes). The books I’ve selected include many great German authors. is the capital of Marzipan (almond paste). Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies In the following book and movie lists. personalities. too. German wines (Chapter 23). ߜ Conversations with Goethe by Johann Peter Eckermann: Early19th-century Germany from the viewpoint of the most renowned German figure of the Enlightenment. Books (fiction and nonfiction) The number of books written about Germany. ߜ Buddenbrooks by Thomas Mann: A classic of German literature. this novel deals with the transition of a merchant family in Lübeck from 19th-century stability to 20th-century uncertainty. for example. past and present. brewed right in the area. ߜ Before the Deluge: A Portrait of Berlin in the 1920s by Otto Friedrich: A fascinating portrait of the political. brilliant novel that examines the authoritarian cultures of 20th-century Germany and . Each city has its favorites. ߜ Berlin Journal 1989–1990 by Robert Darnton: An eyewitness account of the events that led to the opening of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of East Germany’s Communist regime. cultural. mostly from grapes grown in the scenic Rhine and Mosel valleys (Chapter 19). and social life of Berlin between the wars. and politics. the German tradition of afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is alive and well. Lübeck (Chapter 13). ߜ Bismarck by Edward Crankshaw: An objective and highly readable life of the first chancellor of the German Empire and a seminal figure in Germany’s Prussian past. And German beers are legendary. that can help you gain a better understanding of German history. ߜ Europe Central by William T. Vollman: A bold. about WWII and the Holocaust. provide excellent accompaniments to any meal. Look out for regional specialties. ߜ Billiards at Half-Past Nine by Heinrich Böll: A compelling novel by one of Germany’s best-known writers about the compromises made by a rich German family during the Hitler years. has increased dramatically during the past two decades. I attempt to provide a broad overview of Germany from many different perspectives and historical epochs. and in particular.

and chancellor of West Germany (1969–1974). and German National Identity by Charles S. ߜ Here I Stand: A Life of Martin Luther by Roland Bainton: A fascinating and meticulously researched account of the Protestant reformer. and patron of the arts. including works by Robert Payne. ߜ Germany 1866–1945 by Gordon Craig: One of the best single accounts of the turbulent political. mayor of cold-war West Berlin (1957–1966). ߜ Five Germanys I Have Known by Fritz Stern: The well-known historian chronicles the five distinct eras of Germany’s modern history that his Jewish family has experienced. this powerful novel explores Nazism and its aftermath in the north German provinces. ߜ German Family Research Made Easy by J. Maier: A study of German attempts to come to terms with the Holocaust and the recent controversy surrounding conservative attempts to downplay the historical . sketched with wit and humor. true stories of a handful of Jews who managed to remain in Berlin during WWII by hiding out in the homes of non-Jewish German friends. Joachim Fest. cultural. and John Toland. ߜ Frederick the Great by Nancy Mitford: Frederick. ߜ The Unmasterable Past: History. ߜ The Germans by Gordon Craig: A highly readable and knowledgeable portrait of postwar Germany. written by a Nobel Prize winner who kept his own Nazi past a secret until 2006. ߜ Hitler: 1936–1945: Nemesis by Ian Kershaw: Several good biographies about Hitler have been written. but Kershaw’s is one of the best. ߜ My Life in Politics by Willy Brandt: The political memoirs of Willy Brandt (1913–1992). statesman. Holocaust. this easy-to-follow guide makes the task easier. winner of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. ߜ The Tin Drum by Günter Grass: Perhaps the most famous novel about life in post-WWII Germany. ߜ A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain: Twain’s account of his travels in Germany is as fresh today as when it first was published in 1899. Konrad: If you’re interested in tracing your German roots. musician. ߜ The German Lesson by Siegfried Lenz: A bestseller when it first appeared in 1971. ߜ The Last Jews in Berlin by Leonard Gross: Gripping. scholar. and economic life in Germany from the foundation of the German Reich through the end of the Third Reich.22 Part I: Introducing Germany Russia and creates a mesmerizing picture of life during wartime from many different perspectives.

ߜ The Cabinet of Doctor Caligari (1921): One of the earliest horror films. startling. starring Marlene Dietrich as an amoral cabaret singer and Jean Arthur as a self-righteous U. ߜ Goodbye. WWII and the Holocaust have dominated the subject matter of recent films about Germany — so much so that German-made films about contemporary German life rarely get a showing outside of Germany unless they win a top prize at a film festival. 23 ߜ When in Germany. . entertaining crash course in German culture. from learning that the wall has come down and Germany has been reunited. the one who built Neuschwanstein. Movies As with literature.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany uniqueness of the German genocide against Jews and other minorities. Do as the Germans Do by Hyde Flippo: A short. the powerful Nazi official who was subsequently executed for war crimes. ߜ Berlin Alexanderplatz (1980): Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 15-part television adaptation of the novel by Alfred Döblin follows the life of a man released from prison between the two world wars. ߜ Cabaret (1972): A musical based on Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories and set in Berlin at the brink of WWII. ߜ The Blue Angel (1930): The film that shot Marlene Dietrich to international stardom remains stark. ߜ Witness to Nuremberg by Richard Sonnenfeldt: The chief American interpreter at the war-crimes trials tell his story of dealing directly with Hermann Göring. customs. ߜ Bent (1997): Movie adaptation of Martin Sherman’s powerful play about Max. a gay man sent to Dachau concentration camp under the Nazi regime. this classic German silent movie used expressionist sets to create a tale of murder and madness. My recommended list includes a selection of German and Germany-themed films available on VHS or DVD. and provocative. and heritage. a loyal Communist.S. ߜ Ludwig (1972): Visconti’s turgid epic about the last king of Bavaria. ߜ A Foreign Affair (1948): Billy Wilder’s cynically hilarious look at postwar occupied Berlin. senator. ߜ The Marriage of Maria Braun (1979): Hanna Schygulla stars as a woman married to a soldier in the waning days of WWII. Lenin! (2004): A wry comedy about a young man in East Berlin who tries to keep his bedridden mother.

Lola. ߜ Wings of Desire (1988): An angel roaming the streets of Berlin and recording the angst and joy of ordinary life falls in love with a mortal. Run (1999): Fast-paced twists and turns as Lola races desperately through Berlin seeking 100.24 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Metropolis (1927): Fritz Lang directed this classic of German cinema. .000 Deutsche Marks to save her boyfriend from being rubbed out by a gangster. ߜ Olympiad (1936): Leni Riefenstahl’s super-Aryan take on the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin. ߜ Triumph of the Will (1934): Leni Riefenstahl filmed the gigantic 1934 Nazi conference and rally in Nuremberg as “image-control” propaganda for the Third Reich. in which the Workers plan a revolt against the aloof Thinkers that dominate them in a future dystopia. ߜ Run.

This chapter points out highlights of each region and gives you the lowdown on the weather so you can determine the best destinations and time of year for your visit. special festivals and events. My aim in this book is to introduce you to the best cities. see “The Regions in Brief” map in this chapter. Architecturally. The climate in the north. geared to savvy travelers who want to know more about Germany’s leading sights. For locations. Discovering northern Germany Northern Germany is a different world from southern Germany. often is wet or . the north’s sober redbrick Gothic churches and buildings lack the ornate baroque decorations found in the Catholic south. with an emphasis on fish. and when do you want to go? In this chapter. I don’t cover every state. region.Chapter 3 Deciding Where and When to Go In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring Germany’s main points of interest ᮣ Scheduling your trip ᮣ Getting a grip on the seasons: Tourism and weather ᮣ Flipping through the country’s calendar of events hat do you want to see when you visit Germany. too. special sights. You also find a calendar of events so you can time your trip to coincide with. which is influenced by the North and Baltic seas. check out the following thumbnail sketches and find details of the best places Germany has to offer in Chapters 1 and 2. only the essential highlights. and city in Deutschland. 3rd Edition. W Going Where You Want to Be Germany For Dummies. or avoid. and scenic regions that Germany has to offer. To figure out which regions to visit during your trip. is a selective guidebook. historic towns. The food is plainer. I help you to narrow your focus so you can start planning your trip in earnest.

you have an opportunity to visit sections of eastern Germany that for 45 years were inaccessible. has treasures beyond measure in the Zwinger Palace and the Residenzschloss. and bars. is a major tourist attraction. now a lively area with restaurants. which houses an outstanding. The Bach Museum is of interest to classical-music lovers. another easy daytrip from Hamburg. Big. you can also explore beautiful 19th-century neighborhoods. has been less interested in restoring its past than looking toward the future. opened in 2005. multifaceted collection of art. Hamburg is the third-largest city in Germany. 18thcentury palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam — in Chapters 11 and 12. you see examples of its 900-yearold history everywhere you turn. brash Berlin was the capital of the old German Reich for 70 years before it was divided into two cities — one capitalist. and Bremen. It has stitched itself back together to become the capital (and largest city) of a reunified Germany and now reigns as one of the most fascinating cities in the world. and visit the Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum). In Hamburg. For the scoop on Hamburg. Similarly. one of the biggest in the world. historic reverberations. Leipzig. has so many medieval brick buildings that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site — a place judged to be of exceptional cultural value. so are the breezy Alster Lakes in the center of the city. from the Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall) to the church spires that dominate the skyline. top performing-arts venues. and its harbor. East Germany’s secret police. . and the city seems to be working overtime to shake off its GDR legacy: The Museum in der Runden Ecke is devoted to the role the Stasi. offers a rich collection of European art and 19th-century German paintings. Does the Berliner Luft (Berlin air) account for Berlin’s endless and ongoing fizz of excitement. one Communist — after World War II.26 Part I: Introducing Germany misty. Lübeck. an easy daytrip from Hamburg. cafes. Berlin is where all is happening in Germany right now. Dresden. the Zeitgeschichtliches Museum (Contemporary History Museum) chronicles the history and artifacts of the GDR years. and striking new architecture. on the other hand. according to the United Nations’ agency that promotes education and the arts. or at least difficult to visit. In the Altstadt. as some people claim? With world-class museums. under the Communist regime of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). After Berlin and Munich (in the south). Lübeck. on the Elbe River and only two hours from Berlin by train. such as Altona. and the Museum of Fine Arts. Exploring eastern Germany Now that Germany is reunited. turn to Chapter 13. You find comprehensive coverage of Berlin — including a daytrip to Frederick the Great’s charming. but some people believe the maritime atmosphere is part of its overall appeal. The peaceful revolution of 1989 began there. played in the lives of citizens. In Bremen. you find a historic center with a day’s worth of sightseeing possibilities.

and to the playwright Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805). pottery.000 people . the poet and dramatist Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832).T. It suffered little damage during the war and was the home of Germany’s greatest writer.d. Schleswig Mountain Kiel North Sea East Frisian Is. quiet. Nuremberg C AN FR Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl O JUR LUXEMTrier BOURG in Bayreuth Bamberg Darmstadt Worms Mannheim eck Homburg Heidelberg N Saarbrücken Saarbr cken A CZECH REPUBLIC M Ta ub er BO NI ar HE A Karlsruhe BadenBaden Schwäbisch Schw bisch Hall Stuttgart Ulm B (SC LAC Rhi ne HW K F AR OR ZW EST AL D) Tübingen bingen Regensburg F O RE Da ST nub e rdlingen Nördlingen r Ingolstadt Isa Passau Augsburg Landshut N I FRANCE Lech Freiburg Lörrach rrach SWAB Donaueschingen Meersburg Konstanz Lindau Lake JU IAN RA nu Da be Dachau Munich Oberammergau Füssen ssen GarmischPartenkirchen Southern and Western Germany See Part IV Prien am AU Chiemsee Berchtesgaden STRIA SW S W I TZ TZE ER RLA L A ND ND Constance (Bodensee) Neuschwanstein Zugspitze The small. Stettin Bay Neubrandenburg Wilhelmshaven Emden Oldenburg Bremerhaven W Elb e Hamburg El be Schwerin TH HE E N ET H ERLAN DS NET HER L AND S Bremen Celle Northern and Eastern Germany See Part III Alle r Brandenburg Havel Osnabr ck Osnabrück Minden Hannover Braunschweig Hameln Goslar BERLIN Frankfurt Münster nster Rh in e Bielefeld Detmold Hildesheim Potsdam an der Oder Oder bbenau Lübbenau Cottbus Magdeburg H A R Z Wittenberg Essen Lippe Dortmund Ruhr Düsseldorf sseldorf Bad Pyrmont Dessau be El Od ese r Lüneburg neburg er POLAND Mönchengladbach nchengladbach Cologne Aachen Ems Ne We ser Spre Göttingen ttingen isse Halle Leipzig e Kassel Weimar Bad Wildungen Eisenach Erfurt Bautzen Naumburg Meissen Dresden Altenburg Freiberg Jena Görlitz rlitz TH Bonn BEL BE LG GIUM IU M Bad Nauheim Bad Homburg Bad Kissingen GE Gera Zwickau RW Chemnitz ER E ZG BI RG E Koblenz Wiesbaden Mainz Rhi ne ÜR ALD Coburg Hof La IN be BernkastelKues Frankfurt am Main Aschaffenburg Ma Würzburg rzburg AN Speyer Rothenburg o.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 27 The Regions in Brief 0 0 50 mi Sylt Sylt Westerland DENMARK Baltic Sea Kiel Bay Hiddensee N 50 km Flensburg North Frisian Is. the site of a Nazi-run concentration camp just outside of Weimar where at least 56. Cuxhaven Rügen gen Mecklenburg Stralsund Pomeranian Bay Bay Rostock Greifswald Wismar Lübeck beck West Frisian Is. eastern town of Weimar is in a category of its own. A visit to the Buchenwald Memorial. furniture. and drawings from the Bauhaus school. The small Bauhaus Museum exhibits paintings. textiles. which began here in 1919. The homes of these two literary giants are Weimar’s most popular tourist attractions.

is the best spot to stay. an island-city connected to the mainland by a causeway. Southern Germany also includes the Bodensee (also called Lake Constance). From there you can explore the surrounding forest or hunt for a cuckoo clock. the lively and lovely city of Freiburg is a delight. where cowbells clang in the meadows and classic chalets nestle in picturesque valleys. 19th-century greats. and concerts of all kinds. Ranking right up there with the offerings of Berlin are Munich’s museums. You also find lovely churches with sober Gothic and exuberant baroque interiors. This alpine region. the Bodensee. and major 20th-century artists. with its famous mineral baths and glamorous casino. a town that’s famous for its woodcarvers and for the Passion play performed there every ten years — a tradition dating back to the 17th century. symphony. used by the rulers of Bavaria from the 14th century up to 1918. Bavaria. with an upscale chic. The Romantic Road and daytrips in Bavaria are covered in Chapter 16. with stops at several perfectly preserved medieval towns along the way. the daytrip to the mountain resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen is an easy one. Germany’s highest peak. Munich’s musical life is the envy of many cities. an island in the lake. Leipzig. and Weimar in Chapter 14. Both areas offer great natural beauty and plenty of recreational opportunities. In the Black Forest. the most beautiful driving tour in Germany. You’ll find plenty of both along the Romantic Road. is a place that’s tailor-made for tourists. From Munich. You find complete coverage of Dresden. also is where you find Oberammergau. . Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle in the Bavarian Alps. semitropical gardens flourish on Mainau. The city’s most popular museum is the Deutsches Museum. which is accessible by cable car. and vineyards and fruit trees grow around its shoreline. can be an intense and profoundly moving experience.28 Part I: Introducing Germany died. and the famous Schwarzwald. Chapter 15 is devoted to the many delights of Munich. or Black Forest. This enchanting route winds south from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein. Munich. Germany’s largest lake. the Residenz. crammed with old masters. but it’s also boisterous. and it’s close to the Zugspitze. is cultured and elegant. the largest science and technology museum in the world. Germany’s largest and most prosperous Land (state). Bavaria is full of scenic splendor and picturesque charm. Savoring southern Germany Southern Germany is worlds apart from the north. Details about the Bodensee and the Black Forest are in Chapter 17. even raucous: Millions pour into the city during Oktoberfest to experience Munich’s renowned giant beer halls and beer gardens. one of the traditional industries of the Black Forest region. In the center of town sits an enormous palace. Farther north is the city of Baden-Baden. Lindau. with year-round opera. sits in a sun-drenched basin with a view of the Alps to the south. the capital.

Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is the oldest in Germany. Chief among its many outstanding museums are the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. Stuttgart. Cologne was an important Roman town during a period that is wonderfully interpreted in the Romisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum).Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 29 Wending through western Germany Western Germany is a densely populated area with an ancient history and cities with vibrant personalities all their own. Heidelberg’s enormous ruined castle oversees its picturesque Altstadt (Old Town). Frankfurt has a modern. the largest Gothic structure north of the Alps. one of Germany’s best for art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. Stuttgart’s is one of the largest. and the Museum Ludwig. Nuremberg has as many romantic corners as Heidelberg. one of the top modern-art museums in Europe. with major painting collections and the fabulous Neue Galerie. see Chapter 19. This lively. Heidelberg. in addition to the country’s largest museum of art and culture. By contrast. only 40 minutes by train from Heidelberg. Heidelberg is for many people the quintessential romantic German town. Its chief glory is its awe-inspiring Dom (Cathedral). Little more than a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of WWII. and a delightful Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum). business-oriented buzz and a skyline pierced by designer skyscrapers. The Rhine and Mosel valleys in western Germany form one of Europe’s top wine-producing areas. River cruises originating in Cologne and many other cities in the area take you through valleys of neatly clipped vineyards soaking up sunlight on steep hillsides. an art museum housed in a striking glass cube offering a panoramic view of Stuttgart. or Cologne (as it’s known in English). and Nuremberg are covered in Chapter 18. . Frankfurt probably is the best-known metropolis in western Germany. Cologne also is one of the contemporary-art capitals of Germany. Stuttgart. in part because it’s the point of entry for most visitors who fly into the country. sophisticated. Nürnberg (or Nuremberg as it’s known in English) was rebuilt in a style that evokes the medieval era when it was one of the most important cities in Germany. For more on Cologne and side trips into Germany’s wine country. The banking capital of Germany and the European Union. Köln. The city’s past dark side as a center for Nazi rallies is documented in the harrowing exhibit at the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Party Rally Grounds Documentation Center) created within Albert Speer’s Nazi Congress Hall. Among its many cultural offerings are several important museums. and good-natured town offers more than enough to keep you busy for a couple of days. all described in Chapter 20. which comes as a wonderful surprise to many visitors. reigns as the cultural capital of southwestern Germany. You can also visit many wine towns by train. the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). occupies a prime spot on the Rhine River. Sitting on the Neckar River amid green hills.

Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday). Stuttgart. including Neuschwanstein. Füssen. Ascension Day (ten days before Pentecost/ Whitsunday. ߜ From Hamburg. and Berlin.30 Part I: Introducing Germany Scheduling Your Time If you’re flying into the country from outside of Europe. Easter (including Good Friday and Easter Monday). Munich. you have easy access to the cities of Dresden. Garmisch-Partenkirchen. August 15 (Assumption). In addition. and November 1 (All Saints’ Day). ߜ From Berlin. the northern German cities of Lübeck and Bremen are a short train ride away. the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany). and December 25 to 26 (Christmas). and Oberammergau. and Weimar in eastern Germany. your airport choices are Frankfurt. If you want to explore all parts of the country. November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance). you can easily reach places in the Bavarian Alps. an easy hour-and-a-half drive away (see Chapter 16 for more details). May 1 (Labor Day). You can also arrange for boat trips on the Rhine and visit the winegrowing regions by car or train. consider centering your itineraries in Berlin. so you can choose the best time for your visit. Nuremberg. Many museums and attractions close on the following public holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day). the seventh Sunday after Easter). Corpus Christi (ten days after Pentecost). in addition to Augsburg. and Baden-Baden — are never more than three hours away by train. Leipzig. rent a car at Frankfurt airport and drive to the beginning of the scenic route in Würzburg. all the major cities of western Germany — Heidelberg. Frankfurt airport has its own train station. October 3 (Day of German Unity). Hamburg. ߜ From Cologne. and Cologne. If a driving tour along the Romantic Road is part of your itinerary. ߜ From Munich. the latter of which has a new Delta direct flight from New York. Revealing the Secret of the Seasons How do you decide what time of year to travel to Germany? This section presents the pros and cons of each season. Munich. so it’s possible to hop on a fast train at the airport and arrive almost anywhere in Germany within five hours or less of your arrival. . and Lindau on Lake Constance. Keep German holidays in mind when scheduling your trip.

some locals claim that they now receive less snow and more rain than in decades past. In the winter months. bear in mind that the climate is constantly affected by colliding continental and maritime air masses from the Baltic and North seas. castles. or convention center/fairground. October and November and January through March are the low seasons. In general.6 3. Nearly all large German cities have a Messe.6 40 4 2. be prepared for variations. temperate climate. That said. Average summer temperatures range from 72°F to 80°F (20°C–30°C). and many hotels consequently offer lower summer rates.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 31 Traveling during high and low seasons Roughly speaking.3 60 16 2. museums.2 2. °C Rainfall (in. or the Reichstag dome in Berlin. For average temperatures and rainfalls. In southern Germany.9 64 18 62 17 56 13 2. and tourist offices have shorter hours and may be closed certain days of the week. the high season for travel in Germany is from Easter to the end of September with another peak in December. crowds and prices tend to rise during big trade fairs.7 . for instance. may be more than two hours long.4 34 1 1. In northern Germany. especially in the north. Table 3-1 Berlin’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Temp.9 2.2 1. Overall. Recent summers brought record-breaking heat waves and even in autumn many parts of Germany can be warmer than expected.6 1. I think a disclaimer is in order. with a year-round schedule of major trade shows in all industries. although I can give you a very broad overview of general weather patterns in Germany. Germany has a predominantly mild. So. some report a hotter and drier climate.) 30 –1 32 0 40 4 48 9 53 12 2. but from April through September. generally from October through March. Watching those unpredictable skies Before I write about the weather in Germany. As in many parts of the world. resulting in plenty of unpredictable weather. °F Temp. see Table 3-1 for Berlin in the north and Table 3-2 for Frankfurt in the south. July and August may be less expensive because that’s when Germans take off on their own holidays.2 1. These trade fairs can put a real squeeze on hotel rooms. like Neuschwanstein and Linderhof castles in Bavaria.2 49 9 1. the lines for major attractions. The average winter temperature hovers around 32°F (0°C). the weather in Germany has become less predictable than in the past. The country is most crowded during the months of May and June. Most castles and palaces can be visited daily yearround.

5 66 19 66 19 58 14 4. ߜ The carefully tended parks and gardens in German cities show off their first spring flowers. you find asparagus specialties on menus everywhere. heralds the approach of spring around the giant Bodensee (Lake Constance) and in the river valleys of the Black Forest and throughout southwestern Germany. But keep in mind these springtime pitfalls: ߜ Cold.6 5.9 63 17 5. consider visiting in April and May. the months that are least cloudy. ߜ In towns around Bodensee. invigorating.5 5.) 6.2 50 10 4. rainy weather can last well into early summer in Berlin and other northern cities. .5 35 2 6 Temp.32 Part I: Introducing Germany Table 3-2 Frankfurt’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 34 1 36 2 42 6 49 9 57 14 5. In the interior of Germany. °C Rainfall (in. a dry south wind from the Alps. ߜ Blossoms appear on the fruit trees grown around the Bodensee and the Rhine.0 5.8 41 5 6. Blossoming in spring Spring comes earliest in the south and in the Rhine Valley. Even with clear skies. °F Temp.1 5. leaving May as an “inbetween” off-month: The weather in the Alps tends to be soggy and foggy at this time. major attractions in cities throughout Germany tend to be more crowded. ߜ During school holidays. The Föhn. the weather up north can remain. ߜ May and June is Spargel (white asparagus) season throughout Germany. ߜ The snow in the Alps usually melts by April. Here are some of the season’s highlights: ߜ The warmth of springtime sun coaxes out the new vines in Germany’s Rhineland wine country. such as Lindau. the least-gray months usually are June and September.1 If your trip includes northern Germany. shall we say. an early spring means that tables are set up in sunny squares and life begins to move outdoors.7 5. though. especially around Easter.

ߜ Warm summer nights stay light much longer. Neckar. ߜ Getting into top attractions like Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace can take two hours or more. and Berlin become more inviting as warm weather settles in.and late-summer days can become hot. and Frankfurt. after the grape harvest. and the orientation of individual valleys to the sun.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 33 Shining (and raining) in summer From April through September. the Black Forest. gasoline and diesel exhaust can create air pollution on hot. ߜ Many attractions are open longer hours. Autumn days are beautiful in scenic Bavaria. heralding gray. ߜ Outdoor musical performances and street fairs take place in many cities and regions. autumn is likely to be rainy and blustery. ߜ Heat and humidity can make for sticky sightseeing throughout central and southern Germany. Munich. Glowing in autumn Fall is one of the best times to visit Germany. ߜ Air-conditioning is not common in Germany. local winds. until 10 p. making this a perfect time to explore the Romantic Road. which also can be the case in Dresden. mid. or sometimes later. Some summer perks to consider: ߜ Prices for hotels often are lower in July and August. windless days. you can generally count on warm. mild weather in southern Germany. frequently makes a welcome appearance during October and November. Summer in the north comes later and remains variable because of maritime influences from the North and Baltic seas.m. wet winters. Leipzig. The deciduous trees in the Black and Thuringian forests and along the Rhine. In southern and western Germany. However. and other river valleys turn golden as the days grow shorter. ߜ You can dine alfresco (outdoors) in most German cities. vines turn yellow. But keep in mind: ߜ Airfare tends to be higher during summer months. ߜ In traffic-jammed cities like Berlin. . around Cologne and even as far north as Berlin. humid. ߜ Lakes in the Alps. and the landlocked eastern portion of the country. Summer weather in the Bavarian Alps is extremely variable and changes according to altitude. Indian summer. or what the Germans call Altweibersommer (old women’s summer). and thundery. In the north. hotels and concert halls can be broiling.

ߜ Although you’ll be comfortable in your hotel. especially in the north. the Bavarian Alps. and other events swings into high gear. ߜ Airfares usually drop. ߜ Giant beer festivals transform Munich and Stuttgart. numbing. and seemingly endless. ߜ Daylight drops dramatically: Darkness falls as early as 3:30 or 4 p. ߜ When the snow starts to fall in the Alps and the Black Forest. especially in the north. cities throughout the country set up magical outdoor Christmas markets where you find tree ornaments. and often turns into sleet. snow doesn’t stay on the ground for long. Cologne and Munich celebrate with citywide carnivals (Fasching). ߜ Towns in winegrowing areas celebrate with wine festivals. Both the Alps and the Black Forest are known for their fine skiing and winter sports. This season has only one real drawback: Autumn may be gray and rainy. Winter can be wonderful because: ߜ In December. where the winter weather is colder and snow adds to the beauty of the mountain and forest landscapes. and baked delights. . Germans tend to underheat rather than overheat their spaces. ߜ Scenic areas like the Black Forest. skiers head for the slopes and cross-country trails. The cold can be raw. lending a special air to the country’s many Christmas markets. But winter has its downside: ߜ Brrr. ߜ In the weeks before Lent.34 Part I: Introducing Germany A few advantages of autumn: ߜ Summer crowds have thinned out by the end of September. ߜ Germany’s cultural calendar of opera. Welcoming winter Snow can fall anywhere in Germany. ߜ Almost everything shuts down on December 25 and 26 and New Year’s Day. But with winter temperatures hovering right around freezing. and the Rhineland glow with autumn hues. handcrafted goods. This story is different in the Bavarian Alps and the Black Forest. symphony. ߜ The smell of new wine fills the old streets of winegrowing towns.m.

where he was choirmaster. and special exhibitions. www. Second week in A week in February. various towns along the Rhine (between Bonn and Linz.muenchen-tourist. and in other churches and concert halls. is one of Europe’s major winter sporting For information. Third week in May. Celebrations in Cologne (% 0221/ January and Munich (% 089/233-0300. Koblenz and Braubach.rothenburg. www. Rothenburg ob der Tauber celebrates the story of how a brave citizen saved the town from destruction by drinking a huge tankard of wine (an event called Der Meistertrunk). January New Year’s Day International Ski Jumping.berlinale. www. February The well-respected Berlin International Film Festival (% 030/25920. Events take place twice a year. See the appendix for the tourist board’s contact information. The renowned Bachfest/Bach Festival (% 0341/913-7333. www. Verifying dates beforehand with the German National Tourist Board is a good idea. Last week in May to the first week in June. www. festivals. On special Saturday nights during Rhein im Feuerzauber (Rhine in Flames). May Hamburg Summer is a summer-long series of cultural Check its Web site ( in Leipzig features performances of Johann Sebastian Bach’s work in the famous Thomaskirche.bachleipzig. contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. Fasching (Carnival) festivals take place in Catholic cities throughout Germany. www. Goar and www. and lasts for a week and showcases the work of international film directors in addition to the latest German films. During the Historisches Festspiel (Historic Festival). Bingen and Rüdesheim. or call or write for a free calendar of events. are particularly famous. including concerts. Goarshausen) illuminate their castles and set off fireworks. For information. reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash contact Tourist Information (% 09861/40492.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 35 Perusing a Calendar of Events Germany hums year-round with festivals and special events of all kinds. first week of September. May through July. The best . in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/180-700.

www. During the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival (% 0800/7463-2002. contact Heidelberg Tourist-Information. for events in Cologne. Events take place in the Münsterplatz surrounding Freiburg’s magnificent cathedral. and early September. Pavillon (% 06221/ features folk music. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880.festspiele.36 Part I: Introducing Germany vantage point is from a riverboat on the Rhine. Nürnberger Herbsfest (Fall Festival). heidelberg. For information.volksfest-nuernberg. For information. For more information. Enjoy vintages from the surrounding Black Forest area during Freiburg im Breisgau’s Public Wine Tasting. Mid-August. August During Weinkost (Food and Wine Fair) in Freiburg im in Bayreuth. For Cologne. June Fireworks enliven the sky in the romantic university city of Heidelberg during the Floodlighting of the Castle. opera tickets must be booked years in advance. one of the best music festivals in Germany. For events in Berlin. Last weekend in June. Last week in August through first week in September. featuring parades. contact the German National Tourist Board (see the appendix for contact info). mid-July. takes place in the composer’s famous Festspielhaus (opera house). For details. MidJuly to early September. first weekend in June. shmf. local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district and regional food specialties. takes place in the Rhine village most famous for red the Richard Wagner Festival (% 0921/ www. jazz concerts. The Traditional Rüdesheim Wine Festival. www. log on to www. a big Frankish folk festival in Nuremberg (% 0911/468-600. de).de).de. www. classical concerts take place in venues in and around the lovely old city of Lübeck. Unfortunately. Late July to late August.freiburg. in Rüdesheim am Rhein. www. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. Mid-August. and events for the whole May through September. last weekend in June. and street fairs. Early Berlin. Berlin and Cologne have the largest Gay Pride festivals. July One of Europe’s major opera events. www. log on to www. performances. gay-web. contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau (% 06722/19433). .

an annual amusement fair at Hamburg’s Heiligengeistfeld. www. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. fireworks. . where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to 6. Contact the tourist information office (% 0711/222-8259. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. is the biggest public event in northern Germany. happens mostly in September. Most activities occur at Theresienwiese. Germany’s most famous contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. include food stalls. www. contact the Stuttgart tourist information office (% 0711/2228259. attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists.stuttgart-tourist. Late September. First week in November. One of the high points on the cultural calendar of the 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. Mid-October. symphony. www. contact TourismusZentrale (% 040/3005-1201.oktoberfest. September Munich’s Oktoberfest (www. www. and theatrical presentations. For September through mid-October. Hamburger Dom (also called Winter Dom). Last week in August. Millions show is a major event in the world of international book publishing. begins with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes and features food. Events. At the Stuttgart Wine Festival. wine lovers converge on Schillerplatz to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. Last weekend in August. November 9 to December 9. the Frankfurt Book Fair (% 069/21010. www. For for information. Mid-September to the first Sunday in October. rides. Dating back to 1818. October The largest book fair in Europe. and shows. the Berliner Festwochen (Berlin Festival) brings an international roster of performing artists to Berlin for opera. November The annual Jazz-Fest Berlin.000 beer drinkers. staged at the Philharmonie. not October. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/ for more details. which take place around Binnenalster 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 37 Arts and pleasure abound during Hamburg’s Alstervergnügen (Alster Pleasures). and tents for beer drinkers. For more and visitors pack hotels.

among other cities. takes place in town squares throughout Germany. Late November or early December until Christmas. . You find them in Cologne. Frankfurt. Dresden. “Christ Child Market”). and Stuttgart. Leipzig. Munich.38 Part I: Introducing Germany December A Christmas Market. Nuremberg. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. for details (see the appendix for contact information). generally called a Weihnachtsmarkt (Weihnachten means Christmas) or a Christkindlmarkt (literally. or the German National Tourist Board. Contact the individual tourist offices of each city.

Then walk over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt. some of these itineraries are more enjoyable if you have a car. For more information about the sights that I mention. shows you the contrasts between southern Germany and northern Germany and introduces you to the country’s two greatest cities. Chapter 16 for the Bavarian Alps and its castles. If you haven’t visited a destination before. on the Rhine. one of the greatest food markets in Europe. Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week This seven-day itinerary.) Although you can reach all the destinations in this chapter by train or public transportation.Chapter 4 Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options In This Chapter ᮣ Seeing Germany’s top attractions in one or two weeks ᮣ Discovering Germany with your kids ᮣ Planning trips for wine aficionados P utting together a good itinerary is one of the hardest parts of any trip. beginning in Munich and ending in Berlin. and Chapter 12 for Berlin. and visit the nearby Frauenkirche. Munich’s largest church. You can go up to the top of the Rathaus tower for a bird’s-eye view. see Chapter 7. I lay out some suggested travel itineraries for those with limited time or with special interests. Browse around and find a place for lunch from among the dozens of possibilities in the area. Chapter 19 for Cologne. I include two of King Ludwig II’s castles and a brief stop in Cologne. (See Chapter 1 for some preliminary information on what the country offers. Afterward. the city’s main square. see Chapter 15 for Munich. Spend Day 1 in marvelous Munich. For details on getting around the country. make your way to the . watch the Glockenspiel. Shake out your plane-cramped legs by taking to the streets for some general exploration. how do you know what’s worth seeing and what isn’t? In this chapter. Head first for Marienplatz.

which includes the bizarrely ornate sleighs and coaches used by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. You need the entire morning to wander through the enormous Residenz in central Munich. the closest town to Linderhof Palace. make your way to Füssen. have dinner at the fun-loving Hofbräuhaus. just south of Munich. and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Ludwig’s childhood home. Germany’s highest peak. creator of Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle. From Garmisch. the trip is only 40 minutes by train or car to Oberammergau. Oberammergau. Munich is one of Germany’s top cultural capitals. head to the Bavarian Alps. the location for Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. Ludwig II’s Frenchinspired castle. choose a museum to visit. If you choose Nymphenburg. Then. Spend the night in Garmisch. If you’re without a car. Wander through this small Bavarian town. make your way to the famous Deutsches Museum. If you’re in the mood for oom-pah-pah. you can make an easy excursion to the Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). and be sure to take time to stroll around the lovely historic district of town. this castle quickly fills up with tourists as the day wears on. Spend the night in Füssen. On Day 3. In the afternoon. If you rent a car. allow some extra time to wander through the gardens. Special cog railways and cable cars can take you up and bring you back down. Or you can take a train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and ascend the Zugspitze. You can bring a picnic or order a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. so you may want to end your evening at a concert or the opera. Three possibilities are the Neue Pinakothek. whose wares you may want to purchase. At some point.5km (4-mile) trip to the castle. On Day 4. the brand-new Pinakothek Moderne Kunst. which you can reach by streetcar. If you’re an art lover. Start Day 2 in a palace. a showcase for 19thcentury German and European art. choose another museum to visit. you can easily explore some of the sights along the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road). Tours of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castle take about one hour. If you’re without wheels. if you’re still in a “royal” mood. Or make an easy excursion to beautiful Schloss Nymphenburg. the town closest to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles. the trip takes a little more than an hour. as Germany’s most popular tourist attraction. . In the afternoon. fit in a stroll in the bucolic Englischer Garten. visit adjacent Hohenschwangau Castle.40 Part I: Introducing Germany Asamkirche for a glimpse of the baroque ornamentation for which southern Germany is famous. or Füssen. By train from Oberammergau. If you’re interested in science and technology. which is famous for its woodcarvers. you can easily get a bus from Füssen for the 6. Have lunch near Marienplatz. for a spectacular view of the Alps. Munich’s largest and prettiest park. take a bus from Oberammergau to Schloss Linderhof. and be sure to visit the collection of carriages. Make Neuschwanstein your top priority. a beautiful baroque masterpiece located just a few miles north of Füssen. you may want to see the priceless collection of old masters at the Alte Pinakotheke. which displays an international collection of 20th-century masterpieces. You can dine near the parking area below Neuschwanstein. If you’re driving.

(By fast train. Enjoy the afternoon in this lively Rhine-side city by visiting the cathedral and one or two of its many fine museums. After your tour. From Potsdamer Platz. Take the elevator up to the new dome on top of the Reichstag — the dome is open late. To book a bus tour. you may be able to return the vehicle in Füssen. East Side. so come back later if the line is long. From either city. the symbol of the city. West Side: Germany in Two Weeks What a treat — two weeks to take in the sights! This suggested itinerary makes a clockwise circuit of Germany. the fastest train from Füssen takes about 7 hours. Then stroll down the Ku-Damm. Cologne’s delicious beer). you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. too. On the morning of Day 6. take one of the sleek. Stay overnight in Cologne and have dinner at one of the city’s famous beer halls (be sure to sample Kölsch. The trip from Cologne is under 41⁄2 hours. the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. displaying old and modern masters. the country’s parliamentary headquarters. such as the Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). For detailed information on the cities and sights that I mention. the trip from Munich takes about 51⁄2 hours. entirely devoted to 20th-century and contemporary art. or you can drive back to Munich and return it there. so you may want to see an opera or attend a the new quarter where the Berlin Wall once stood. Leipzig. The city has an excellent music scene. You can also take a sightseeing boat ride along the Rhine. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. so when darkness falls you may want to attend an opera. Berlin is famed for its nightlife. Settle into your hotel and then take one of the sightseeing bus tours of the city — otherwise you’ll see only a fraction of this enormous metropolis.000 years ago. make your way over to Potsdamer Platz. hop on the train and make your way to Köln (Cologne) for Day 5. before making your way to the airport. sophisticated Berlin has endless things to do. www. check out Chapter 12 for Berlin and Potsdam. Chapter 14 for Dresden.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 41 If you have your car for a two-day rental.severin-kuehn-berlin. a concert. western Berlin’s renowned boulevard. for train information and schedules. or a cabaret. so you can take advantage of the morning by going over to the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) to see the world-famous bust of Egyptian queen Nefertiti. and Museum Ludwig. contact Severin+Kühn. and the Reichstag. and Weimar.) You’ll see Cologne’s greatest sight — the enormous Gothic Dom (cathedral) — as you step out of the train station. Here’s hoping your flight home departs sometime in the afternoon on Day 7. and stop in at the Pergamon Museum or the Altes Museum with their fantastic collections of antiquities. Chapter 15 for . Huge. superfast trains to Berlin (the trains depart from the Cologne Hauptbahnhof. dedicated to the Romans who made Cologne one of their strategic forts nearly 2. Then walk east down Unter den Linden to Museumsinsel (Museum Island). call German Rail at % 11861).

de). the upscale shopping street. then head over to the Reichstag and take the elevator up to the new dome for a view of the city. you can walk to Friedrichstrasse. Stop by the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church). Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee. and Chapter 18 for Heidelberg and Nuremberg. You can eat near the palace or back in Berlin. is one of the great art cities of Germany. a beautiful neoclassical square. www. on the Elbe River about two hours south of Berlin by train. and. Then spend a while strolling in the Tiergarten. Chapter 16 for Bavaria and its castles. Spend Day 2 on the western side of the city. left as a colossal ruin after the devastation of World War II. the Residenzschloss. or take the S-Bahn (the city’s system of elevated trains) to Hackescher Markt. On Day 4. From Museumsinsel. a pre–World War I quarter that now features several smart cafes and shops. In the afternoon. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. Eastern Berlin has numerous attractions: Make sure that you stop at the Gendarmenmarkt. contact Severin+Kühn. to book one. which was ruled by the Communists until 1990. three major symphony orchestras. visit one of Berlin’s great museums. the most historic part of the city. In Dresden. the most famous is the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum). you want to focus your attention on the Albertinum. Spend the morning of Day 3 at Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam. such as the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) or the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). Have something fun lined up for the evening: Berlin has three opera houses. and wander into the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas’ Quarter) before you head up to the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) to visit the Pergamon Museum and/or the Altes Museum. Berlin is an enormous city. countless bars and clubs. walk to the Brandenburg Gate and head east down Unter den Linden. you see a different side of Germany (literally) in the eastern cities of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR).42 Part I: Introducing Germany Munich. You want to give yourself at least four hours for this excursion. Berlin’s most famous park. Plenty of entertainment options exist for the evening. Berlin.severin-kuehn-berlin. a vast collection of treasures accrued by Saxon rulers. Head over to the Charlottenburg neighborhood for a tour of Schloss (Palace) Charlottenburg and a stroll through the palace gardens. so start the morning by taking one of the sightseeing bus tours. cabarets. Devote your afternoon to exploring eastern Berlin. the . Start at Potsdamer Platz. for lunch or to find a cafe for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). the most famous boulevard in this part of the city. an easy trip from Berlin by S-Bahn. Head back to the Kurfürstendamm (known as Ku-Damm). which includes a tour of Frederick the Great’s rococo palace and a walk through the landscaped grounds. Afterward. Several museums are in and around the palace. is the starting point on Day 1 of your two-week tour of Deutschland. of course. Dresden. which displays the stunning bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. the most famous boulevard in western Berlin. Germany’s capital and largest city. variety shows.

From Leipzig. In the early 20th century. your destination for Day 6. Enjoy a dinner of regional food in the famous Auerbachs Keller. Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster of the famous Thomaskirche (St. which reopened in 2006 after being painstakingly restored. is one of Germany’s literary meccas. Stay overnight in Weimar. Your destination for Day 7 is delightful Munich. lived here. and then head over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt to wander through this wonderland of an outdoor market. and the Zwinger. If you love symphonic music. on the site of a Nazi-era concentration camp. be sure to reserve a seat to hear the worldfamous Gewandhaus Orchestra. bustling city with a long musical tradition. The city has two unusual museums that shed light on the GDR era: The Museum in der Runden Ecke documents the methods of the dreaded Stasi. hop on a train for Leipzig. a vaulted underground restaurant. filled with leafy parks and neoclassical buildings.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 43 new home of the famed treasury known as the Green Vault. the next stop on this itinerary. is the Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial). From April through September. In 2005. the Bauhaus School of Art and Design operated in Weimar. you can visit the small Bauhaus Museum. 3. the most important being the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery). too. is the town’s most visited site. Not far from the city center. the city’s main square. you have to make some decisions about what to see. fast trains take less than an hour to reach Weimar. Spend the night in Dresden. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe’s House).” With only two days. This small. East Germany’s secret police. today. and the Bach Museum is dedicated to his life and works. the great German dramatist Friedrich Schiller. where he is buried. you won’t want to miss seeing a performance at the Semper Opera House. only an hour away. and the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) examines all aspects of life in the GDR from 1945 to 1989. the town’s liveliest square. Make it a point to see the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). the Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) moved into a building close to Marktplatz. a restored royal palace that is home to four museums. Choose a museum you’d especially like to visit: Most visitors make the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters . Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and his friend. Weimar has its dark side. If you’re an opera lover. the journey takes about five 41⁄2-hour trips take place daily. Visit the scene of Duchess Anna Amalia’s glittering salons in the Wittumspalais. you may want to take an excursion boat along the Elbe into the area known as Saxon Switzerland. Weimar was one of Germany’s great centers of art and culture during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Otherwise (or afterward). pretty city. Germany’s “secret capital. or take the train to Munich. Start your explorations at Marienplatz. From Dresden on Day 5. a “city palace” near Goethe’s house. portions of which have been left much as they were in his lifetime. Thomas Church). Leipzig is a busy.

you can continue on to Lindau. so just take it easy. Stay overnight in Munich. but doing so is not essential. Freiburg’s lovely Münster (cathedral) and its surrounding square constitute the main sights in town. Give yourself some leeway with time because the crowds can be dense. you can happily spend a few hours strolling through old streets lined by Bächle (little streams). but the Deutsches Museum. Some small Bavarian village with a cozy Gasthaus (guesthouse) may catch your fancy. From Munich or Füssen. or taking a boat ride on the lake to the garden island of Mainau. Start Day 8 with a self-guided tour of the Residenz. 6. travel time is about the same. Then. symphony. visit the nearby Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). from Munich make your way to Füssen. enjoy a stroll through Füssen’s lovely historic quarter. sample one of the city’s many entertainment options. If you have a car. swimming. Take your pick of cities to stay in. You need at least two hours to visit the entire complex. and mountains in the southwestern corner of Germany is famed for its health resorts. This upscale. many expensive shops. After lunch near Marienplatz. the country’s largest lake and one of the largest bodies of water in Europe. and a famous casino. If you’re without a car. . devoted to science and industry. Stay overnight in Munich. If you have a car. and clubs. You can also visit neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle. or Lake Constance. is one of the most popular museums in the country. if the afternoon is fine. a world-famous baroque masterpiece. its hiking and recreational sports facilities. This scenic area of forested hills. The area has no important museums. You have innumerable ways to spend the evening in this cultural mecca: opera. stroll in the lovely Englischer Garten and stop for a drink or a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. beer gardens. the trip to Lindau for Day 10 is about three hours by train. This wine town has vineyards nearby and yearly wine festivals. is one of Germany’s premier spa towns. sitting under an umbrella at a cafe. By car or train.44 Part I: Introducing Germany Gallery) their top priority. about 11⁄2 hours farther north by train. Germany’s sunny southwestern corner comes as a surprise to many visitors.5km (4 miles) from the most famous tourist attraction in all of Germany: Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle. your destination on Day 11. or Black Forest. If you opt for Baden-Baden. On Day 9. beer halls. In Freiburg. Even if you’re driving from Füssen. where Ludwig spent his childhood. exploring the Bavarian Alps along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse (German Alpine Road). The charming and lively university town of Freiburg is about three hours by train from Lindau. Lindau’s sunny charms are reminiscent of Italy. and its cuckoo clocks. You’ve no doubt heard about the Schwarzwald. Here you find the Bodensee. pop concerts. Baden-Baden. stay overnight in Füssen or return to Munich. But first. take in another museum. At night. Spend the day strolling in the sun (if the sun cooperates). resort-oriented town offers fine hotels and restaurants. you may want to consider renting a car for the next four days. theater. valleys. Munich’s gigantic “in town” palace.

On Day 14. a little more than two hours by train from Nuremberg. but you can take a tour of some restored rooms. and fine Gothic churches. one of the most attractive towns in Germany. The castle is mostly in ruins. On Day 13. a picturesque area alongside the Pegnitz River. stop at the Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) for a glimpse of the toys for which this city has long been famous. Discovering Germany with Kids Face it: Traveling with kids isn’t easy. I slant this very general itinerary toward outdoor activities and give other options only when they seem relevant. On Day 12. And then. Give yourself at least two hours to visit the marvelous Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). No kid I know wants to spend two hours wandering around a museum admiring old master paintings. the experience takes about 31⁄2 hours. hop on the Bahn (train) in Heidelberg and in 31⁄2 to 4 hours. The train ride from Nuremberg is about 51⁄2 hours. When it comes time to eat. (Alternatively. Everyone seems to love this ancient university town on the Neckar River. As in many German cities. just wander around without an itinerary. . the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). You find squares with lovely fountains. for example. if you’re in the mood. Some hotels let children stay for free in their parents’ room. to catch your flight home. Hike or take the funicular train up the hillside to the famed Heidelberg Castle for a stunning view of the town and the river valley. You face difficulties in the basic areas of food choices and sightseeing options. which is less than an hour by train from Baden-Baden or 21⁄2 to 3 hours from Freiburg. The Altstadt (Old Town) is where you want to stay and where you want to wander. where your tour began. head back to Berlin. some aspects of traveling in Germany — taking a train. The museum’s restaurant is one of the nicest places to dine in Heidelberg.) Sit back and enjoy the scenery. or from Munich. or seated in a quiet.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 45 be sure to “take the waters” at Friedrichsbad. which covers the entire spectrum of German fine arts from its prehistoric beginnings to the present day. Luckily. make your way to Heidelberg. the entire Altstadt is a pedestrian zone. Stop in at the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate) for a look at Tilman Riemenschneider’s powerfully carved altarpiece. at the ones that don’t. a 125-year-old mineralbath establishment. you can fly home from Frankfurt. especially on a warm evening when your table is in the courtyard near the fountain. or visiting a castle — appeal to kids just because of the novelty. Then take a relaxing boat ride down the Neckar. under two hours from Nuremberg. as it’s known in English). you can pay a few euros more and request an extra bed. formal restaurant awaiting the main course. you’re in Nürnberg (or Nuremberg. Find a cafe to sit and people-watch while you plan your next trip to Germany. If you have time in any of these cities before your flight departs.

on the spire of the Rathaus. Right next to Marienplatz is the Viktualienmarkt. The forested hills all around Neuschwanstein and neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle are full of excellent hiking paths. or sit in the famous beer garden (nonalcoholic refreshments available for the kids). You also can reach the castle by bus or horse-drawn cab. the best outdoor market in Germany and a great place to have a casual lunch. Alternatively. Spend Day 1 in Munich. You can find plenty of outdoor cafes around Marienplatz. you’ll also find American-style fast-food restaurants in all midsize and large cities). but some of them are shorter and easy enough for children. and 500-acre Nymphenburg Park is grand and inviting. If you didn’t make it to the Deutsches Museum the day before. Stay overnight in Füssen and explore the charming old town on foot. with easy access and reduced rates for kids.720 ft.960m/9. while there. one of the largest and most beautiful city parks in Europe. Germany’s highest peak (2. On Day 2. Drive or take the train to Füssen on Day 4. It’s loaded with interesting stuff for kids and adults. Bodensee (Lake Constance) is your destination for Day 5. A cog railway and a cable car take you up and bring you back — a fascinating treat for kids. Schloss Nymphenburg is on the top of your list. Later. Public transportation is a priority in every German city. Good skiing and ice-skating are available all winter. including an 18th-century swimming pool and a baroque hunting lodge. head over to the kid-friendly Deutsche Museum. Here you’re going to ascend the Zugspitze. the other kind are not. The Schloss (palace) is a breeze to get to (it’s right in the city on the streetcar line). The view from the summit is — what else? — spectacular. you can head over there in the afternoon. dance in the meadows. On Day 3. so you and the kids can easily walk everywhere.).46 Part I: Introducing Germany look for casual bistros. you can rent a car or take the train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps south of Munich. be sure to catch the Glockenspiel show at 11 a. Stay overnight in Garmisch.m. If you’re a dedicated hiker. the city’s main square. with formal. By car or train make your way to Lindau. “Mad” Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle. French-style gardens behind the palace and an English-style park with quiet meadows. where you can wander along the tree-shaded walks. or even outdoor food stands (yes. Most hikes take an energetic four to five hours. The entire inner city is a car-free pedestrian zone where you and your kids can stroll with ease. The area around . the largest science and technology museum in the world. Just remember one thing: Wellbehaved children are smiled upon in Germany. forested paths. cafes. and then drive or take a bus to Neuschwanstein. the area around Garmisch-Partenkirchen is magnificent hiking country. Lindau is virtually car-free. Germany’s mostvisited tourist attraction perches on a rocky spur that requires a good uphill hike to reach. a sunny flower-filled resort town that sits on its own small island in the Bodensee. you may want to take a train or subway over to the Englischer Garten (English Garden). and some intriguing buildings.

Freiburg. If you’re traveling by train.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. is another scenic winegrowing region and your destination on Day 3. Head to Cologne on the River Rhine for Day 2. a lively university town in the Black Forest. Spend the night in Lindau. You may want to incorporate this four-day itinerary into a longer trip. How about that — the kids actually had a good time! Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers When you raise a glass of wine in Germany. your headquarters in the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) on Day 6. a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine between the towns of Biebrich and Bingen. with stops for short hikes and cable-car rides to the top of the Belchen. a volcanic massif. is surrounded by 1. The trip begins and ends in Frankfurt. the city celebrates with a four-day wine festival that includes public tastings. a famous mile-high peak with spectacular views of the Rhine plain. You can bike along the shore or relax on an excursion boat ride to the island of Mainau. see Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee and Chapter 19 for Cologne and sights along the Rhine. The train trip from Freiburg takes about four hours. Ride the train or drive north to Freiburg. For more information. Or you can take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz. On Day 7 make your way back to Frankfurt or Munich for the trip home. a scenic winegrowing region. For a great meal with regional wines. you can hop on a train on Day 1 and be in Freiburg in about two hours. Rheingau Rieslings rank among the best white wines made anywhere. From Freiburg you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Schwarzwald. you can explore the neighboring wine country. The Mosel Valley. a plant-lover’s paradise. light Silvaner wine is an ideal accompaniment to Spargel (white asparagus) in May. From Cologne. The young.750-ft. On this drive. the Schluchsee and Titisee. southwest of Cologne. the toast often is a simple “Prosit!” (pronounced prohst). more than any other city in Germany. dine at Zum Roten Bären. you can stop at two Black Forest lakes. This itinerary takes you to the wine regions in western Germany. Weinkost is another wine-tasting event in mid-August.450m (4. From Frankfurt airport. On the last weekend in June.600 acres of vineyards. I suggest that you rent a car for just one day. wine has been produced since Roman times. the oldest inn in Freiburg. In the Rheingau wine district. The valley follows the course of . and the lake is clean enough for swimming. Or you may want to rent a car in Frankfurt for the duration of the trip.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 47 Bodensee is Germany’s sunniest corner. and to the 1. You can drive through this area on a daytrip from Cologne. by car or boat. Most of the grapes grow on the warm lower slopes of the nearby Kaiserstühl (Emperor’s Throne).

. a picturesque wine village surrounded by vineyards and a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. cruises depart daily from Koblenz to Cochem. Wherever you go. you can continue your tasting tour of Germany. The easiest way to enjoy a cruise down the Mosel River is to take a train to Koblenz. From Cochem. Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). look for the local Weinstube (wine tavern). celebrates the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. or Freiburg.48 Part I: Introducing Germany the Mosel River for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. Between late April and the third week in October. a convivial spot to sample Germany’s many fine vintages. Beautiful scenery and fine wines make this a prime area for leisurely exploration. which takes place the first week in June. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. Cologne. both a hotel and a wine restaurant. make your way back to Frankfurt on Day 4. If you have a few more days. The half-timbered Alte Thorschenke in Cochem.

Part II Planning Your Trip to Germany .

I load Chapter 10 with information about getting a passport. explaining what hotel rack rates are. credit cards. and boat. and Jewish travelers. I tell you about traveling through Germany by train. In Chapter 6. and adhering to airport security measures. In Chapter 5. . gay and lesbian travelers. In Chapter 7. car. buying travel and medical insurance. In Chapter 9. guided and package tours. money — so you have an approximate idea of what things cost and how to use ATMs. and offering suggestions for landing the best room at the best price. I get into the nittygritty of Geld — that is. using cellphones and staying connected by e-mail in Germany. and how to get the best fare.T In this part . I offer advice and tips for visitors with special needs and interests: families traveling with children. or traveler’s checks. . outlining the kinds of hotels and guesthouses that you’ll find. plane. I go over the transportation options for getting you to Germany. including information on which airlines fly into Germany. seniors. In Chapter 8. . I discuss all the various accommodations options. his part helps you with the practical details of planning your trip to Germany.

Transportation costs Your first big outlay is going to be for airfare. hotels. Adding everything up. So this chapter is all about Geld (pronounced gelt. I tell you about flying to Germany and help you with some strategies for finding . But can you really afford the trip? At this point. a financial reality check is in order.Chapter 5 Managing Your Money In This Chapter ᮣ Planning a realistic budget for your trip ᮣ Changing your dollars into euros ᮣ Using ATMs. traveler’s checks. meals. entertainment. or Los Angeles. you often can find bargain airfares to Frankfurt and Munich. you want to go to Germany. You’re excited and eager to pack. and credit cards ᮣ Dealing with theft and loss ᮣ Paying and recouping German sales tax ᮣ Knowing when — and how — to tip S o. and so on. Although you may think a trip to Germany is prohibitively expensive because of the transatlantic flight. In Chapter 6. for instance? And how much is a meal in a nice restaurant after you get there? This chapter points you toward all the answers. San Francisco. the two German airports with several direct international flights. I provide vital clues on how to create a realistic budget that works for you. the two most expensive German cities — can actually cost less than a trip to New York. you need to break down your trip into its various components: airfare. transportation while there. Planning Your Budget Planning a budget for your trip to Germany isn’t as difficult as you may think. meaning money). In the following sections. To come up with a workable figure. You may have heard that Germany is an expensive country — but just how expensive? What does a hotel in Munich cost? How much does a train ticket cost for travel from Berlin down to Bavaria. your trip to Germany — even if you visit Munich and/or Berlin.

Based on my own experience. such as Bavaria and the Black Forest. Berlin. The next transportation expense to consider is dependent upon how you plan to travel around Germany after you arrive. Special reduced-price transportation passes are good for a full day (Tageskarten) or longer on all forms of public transportation. Many larger cities have special passes that include public transportation and free or reduced-price admission to various Munich. I mention these moneysaving cards in the city sections of this guide whenever they’re available and worthwhile. The passes make getting around German cities fairly inexpensive (approximately $6–$8 per day).000 in high season. Hamburg.S. convenient. If you’re planning to travel around Germany by train. If you’re traveling by train and want to see some of Germany’s great castles. including advance purchase. however. you probably can find flights for $400 to $800 in low season and $700 to $1. you can walk almost everywhere. Finding flights that cost less is quite possible. you may need to take a local bus or taxi from the nearest town (Füssen. and Cologne all have subway systems called the U-Bahn (short for Untergrundbahn. that in some areas. You can also tour by train throughout the whole of Germany without ever renting a car. or underground train). but so is finding flights that cost a whole lot more. . Please note that these are ballpark figures for economy-class seats found by using every cost-saving trick in the book. Here’s some good news: You won’t need to rent a car in any German city because public transportation is so good. or by going online to www.52 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the cheapest airline fares. round-trip fare from a major city on the West Coast of the U. U-Bahns are fast. such as Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. The historic inner-city area of German cities nearly always is called the Altstadt. That saves you a bundle. I can tell you that finding a nonstop. you can hop on a bus or tram. you can save money by buying a German Rail Pass before you leave home. In smaller towns and cities of Germany. having a car makes exploration of the countryside much easier.raileurope. for Neuschwanstein) to the castle. to Frankfurt is possible for about $600 to $900 during low season and $800 to $1. or Old Town. Frankfurt.200 during high season. because city centers are so compact and close to the train stations. I talk more about these cost-cutting train passes and the popular Eurailpass in Chapter 7. The same cities also have light-rail or aboveground trains called the S-Bahn and a system of trams or streetcars and buses. From New York or Boston. If you don’t want to walk. You can order them through a travel agent or by calling Rail Europe at % 888-382-7245 in the United States. Keep in mind. and easy to use. 800-361-7245 in Canada.

especially in some of the truly elegant five-star properties. Nearly all hotels throughout Germany (except for boutique or 5-star luxury hotels) include a buffet breakfast as part of the room rate. giving a reliable average is difficult. the major cities. however. the price drops so dramatically that you can stay in a double room at a five-star luxury hotel for less than 175€ ($219) per night. Food in Germany often is characterized as heavy. In some cases. Many hotels in the Bavarian countryside. for instance. offer bed. See Chapter 8 for information on what to expect in each price range and for a discussion of your lodging options and how to get the best rate. you hit the high end of 226€ ($282) and up. eating at top restaurants. no matter where you are. hotel rates are lower. however. including breakfast. As a general rule. a Weinstube (restaurant where wine is the primary beverage served). traditional German food also is ganz schmackhaftig (very tasty). but you’ll find that many of the best restaurants in Berlin. Throughout the country. you can find a Ratskeller (restaurant beneath a town hall). In recent years. For the recommendations in this guide. Make sure to ask about special deals wherever you stay.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 53 Lodging expenses A large piece of your budget will be the cost of your hotel or other accommodations. depending on their respective government-appointed categories (1-star. and a full dinner at bargain prices. Munich. and expensive hotels cost from 176€ to 225€ ($220–$281). . In nearly every town and village throughout Germany. generally from 80€ to 150€ ($100–$188) per double room per night. however. you’ll find that hotels throughout Germany are reasonably priced (and practically a bargain when compared to prices in other European countries). large cities like Berlin and Munich have emerged as international food capitals. and elsewhere offer special fixed-price meals that can be real bargains. and so on). But because rates vary from one hotel to the next. But you can still find plenty of opportunities to drop a king’s ransom for a hotel. breakfast. Outside of Munich and Berlin. lunch. hotels offer special price breaks for weekends (Wochenende) and during the summer (generally July and Aug). After that. 2-star. Traditional food. the rates at inexpensive hotels in Munich or Berlin. or some other kind of nonfancy restaurant where you can dine inexpensively and well and where you can enjoy your meal among the locals. isn’t the only cuisine you’ll find in Germany. Overall. That cost will be higher in Munich and Berlin than anywhere else in Germany. is going to cost. Moderate hotels run from 126€ to 175€ ($158–$218). a beer hall. generally are less than 125€ ($156). Of course. Although that may be true. you can always find a double room in a good hotel in Germany for less than 150€ ($188) a night and sometimes for less than 100€ ($125) a night.

and you can hit the sack right after dinner instead of going to a concert or dancing at a club. The most expensive ride is to the top of the Zugspitze. Munich. costs only 8€ ($10). unless you splurge on really high-priced restaurants. You don’t have to buy anything at all. Only at luxury hotels do you have to pay extra for breakfast — usually 18€ to 22€ ($22–$27) — but the buffet breakfast invariably is fabulous. Shopping and nightlife costs Shopping and entertainment are the most flexible parts of your budget.50€ to 7€ ($4. When eating lunch and dinner at moderately priced restaurants in Berlin. mid-priced restaurant averages about 28€ ($35) including beer. and that doesn’t include beer or wine. generally around 5€ ($6. Finding a museum that costs more than 8€ ($10) is rare. Sightseeing expenses Your budget for admission fees depends. If you eat breakfast at a cafe rather than your hotel. Outside of Berlin or Munich. for example — sell special “Welcome” cards that get you into several museums for a reduced rate. sightseeing in Germany is fairly inexpensive. Throughout most of Germany. expect your daily food cost to be about 25€ to 40€ ($31–$50). you can expect to pay from 35€ to 50€ ($44–$62) per person per day (assuming your hotel rate includes breakfast). And some of the top sights — such as the Reichstag in Berlin or the Frauenkirche and Englischer Garten in Munich — are free. Germany’s highest mountain. expect to pay about 3. and you’re content with coffee and a roll at a stand-up counter (or a Starbucks).25) round-trip. Kurfürstendamm or Unter den Linden. Hamburg. on what you want to see. In some locations.25) for admission to museums and local attractions outside of the big cities. Afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) sets you back about 7€ or 8€ ($9 or $10) anywhere in Germany. if you’re a senior or a student. Admission to Neuschwanstein. In fact. As a general rule. the top attraction is a cable car that can whisk you to the top of a famous peak for a spectacular view. depending on the duration of the trip. The major cities — Berlin. Fortunately. food is more expensive in big cities like Berlin and Munich. is kostenlos (free). the cost for adults is 45€ ($56).50–$9) anywhere in the country.75–$6. you can often get a reducedprice admission. Strolling down Berlin’s great avenues. exploring by foot in almost any German town is a good way to soak up the local culture free of charge. You know what . City sightseeing tours by bus cost from 10€ to 24€ ($13–$30). a buffet breakfast nearly always is included in your hotel cost. But remember. the Bavarian castle that is Germany’s top attraction. In addition. dinner for two at a good.54 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany As with hotels. or viewing the Brandenburg Gate. expect to pay from 3€ to 5€ ($2. Most cable cars cost much less. Sightseeing boat excursions typically are 8€ to 15€ ($10–$19). and back again. of course.

(Keep in mind that a small beer sets you back about 2. excluding wine.10). or tavern .40) (continued) Kaffee und kuchen at a cafe or stand-up coffee shop ($) Large glass of beer at a cafe. Table 5-1 Item What Things Cost in Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 2. at Die Quadriga ($$$$) Dinner for one.80€ ($7.25). at Marjellchen ($$–$$$) Meal for one.50–$10) 3.25) 330€–490€ ($412–$612) Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by bus Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by taxi One-way U-Bahn (subway) fare within central Berlin Tageskarte one-day public transportation pass for two zones Double room without breakfast at Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) Double room with breakfast at Brandenburger Hof ($$$$) 245€–295€ ($306–$369) Double room with breakfast at Hotel Domus ($$–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Arco Hotel ($–$$) Dinner for one.50€ ($3. Tables 5-1 and 5-2 give you an idea of what things typically cost in Berlin and the rest of the country. is a late-night city. budget accordingly.50€ ($4.75) 6€–8€ ($7. Berlin. Keep in mind that the hotel rates I quote here are rack rates.10€ ($2. At mid-price and luxury hotels you can almost always find a lower rate that the one listed here simply by checking the hotel’s Web site and booking in advance. the highest undiscounted rate charged by a hotel. but drinks other than beer can be pricey. and an opera ticket in either Berlin or Munich anywhere from 10€ to 80€ ($13–$100). a glass of good German wine about 5€ ($6. at Noodle ($–$$) Cafe meal for one at Café Silberstein ($) Sausage at a stand-up snack stand ($) 115€–150€ ($144–$187) 65€–97€ ($111–$121) 60€ ($75) 30€ ($37) 15€ ($19) 10€ ($13) 3€ ($3. especially. Flip through the shopping and nightlife options of each destination chapter.25).50) 20€ ($25) 2. excluding wine. excluding wine. If anything strikes you as something you can’t do without.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 55 you want. cover charges are rarely more than 5€ ($6.10€ ($2.50) 5. bar. so you may want to check out the club scene while you’re there.

at Café Schinkelwache.56 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Table 5-1 (continued) Item Admission to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). ticket good for same-day admission to several other museums Admission to the Altes or Pergamon Museum (one ticket good for both on same day) Admission to Charlottenburg Palace and palace museums Opera ticket Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 23€–75€ ($29–$94) Table 5-2 Item What Things Cost Outside Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 50€ ($62)/34€ ($40) 151€ ($189)/96€ ($120) 190€–215€ ($237–$269) 90€–170€ ($112–$212) 86€–92€ ($107–$115) 139€–282€ ($174–$352) 57€–75€ ($71–$94) 12€ ($15) 35€–43€ ($44–$54) 20€ ($25) 8€ ($10) First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Dresden First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Munich Double room with breakfast at Der Kleine Prinz. Baden-Baden ($$$$) Lunch for one. Bavaria . Munich ($) Admission to Neuschwanstein Castle. excluding beer. Dresden ($) Fixed-price dinner for one. excluding wine. Baden-Baden ($$$–$$$$) Double room with breakfast at Burg Hotel. at Hofbräuhaus. excluding wine. at Zum Röten Bären. Rothenburg ob der Tauber ($–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Hotel-Garni Brugger. Freiburg ($$$) Dinner for one. at Der Kleine Prinz. including one glass of beer. Lindau ($) Double room with breakfast at Eden-Hotel-Wolf. Munich ($$$–$$$$) Fixed-price dinner for one.

When you inquire about airfares. Dresden Admission to Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery). For popular destinations like Frankfurt and Munich. Membership in AAA. prices go down. Germans tend to travel outside of Germany on their holidays. or other groups may qualify you for discounts on . which are peak travel months for Germans but often a time of lower hotel prices.75) 25€–80€ ($31–$100) 29€ ($36) 5. or Thursday. hotel. Bargain Alert icons (like the one in the left margin) highlight money-saving tips and/or great deals. ߜ Travel on off days of the week. Here are some additional cost-cutting strategies: ߜ Go during the off season. If you can travel at off-season times (Oct–Nov and Jan–Mar). The same is true for July and August. ground transportation. Generalizing about airfares is difficult because the entire industry is changing all the time. AARP.000€ ($6. Because more rooms are available. Dresden Complete bath and massage treatment at Friedrichsbad. ߜ Try a package tour. Munich. airline.250) 70€ ($87) Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun Throughout this book. Munich Opera ticket. Baden-Baden Tank of unleaded gas. Munich Adult/child admission to Deutsches Museum (Science and Industry). which means more beds are available in German hotels. or packager — and you’ll pay much less than if you tried to put the trip together yourself (see Chapter 6). you may find cheaper flights to Frankfurt. or Berlin. In general. If you can travel on a Tuesday. be sure to ask whether you can get a cheaper rate by flying on a specific day. ߜ Always ask for discount rates. you can book airfare. and even some sightseeing by making just one call to a travel agent. Semper Opera House.50€ ($10)/3€ ($3. Wednesday. airfares vary depending on the day of the week and even the hour you fly.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money Item Admission to Zwinger Palace (all museums). Sound odd? Not really. Baden-Baden Average losses at gambling tables. you’ll find hotel prices are as much as 20 percent less than during peak months. frequent-flier plans. economy car 57 10€ ($13) 4€ ($5) Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8.

and the menu often includes many of the dinnertime specialties. key chains. and the trinkets sold at major tourist attractions.58 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany plane tickets. Regardless of where you travel in Germany. One euro is divided into one hundred cents. children. A good pair of walking shoes can save you money on taxis and other local transportation. and you can explore at a slower pace. you save a bundle by not taking two rooms. Even if you have to pay a few extra euros for a rollaway bed. cuckoo clocks. that contains most of the attractions and is within walking distance of the train station. 1€. First-class train tickets generally cost about one-third more than standard second-class tickets. ߜ Travel second class. and students with ID. ߜ Know the advantages and disadvantages of buying a rail pass before you leave home. do without the T-shirts. Notes are . To encourage year-round tourism. Germany’s unit of currency changed from the Deutsche Mark to the euro. and 2€. midweek. Bavarian hats. The amount of money you save with a rail pass depends on how often you use it and how far you go. (See Chapter 8 for some recommended Web sites. 2¢. buying your local train tickets in Germany is cheaper. At most top restaurants in Berlin and Munich. Coins come in denominations of 1¢. Most German cities are compact and eminently walkable. 10¢. 50¢. ߜ Ask if your kids can stay in your room with you. 20¢. As a bonus. many hotels in Germany offer special price breaks on weekends or midweek during the off season. beer steins. and off-season special offers. and guided tours booked before you go. Each usually has a historic Altstadt. Attractions within Germany usually offer a lower admission rate for seniors. That’s what the Germans do. Handling Money In January 2002. Sometimes these special rates are offered as romantic getaway packages and include dinner and a glass of wine. car rentals. 5¢. ߜ Skip the souvenirs. prices at lunch are lower than those at dinner. or Old Town. A room with two double beds usually doesn’t cost any more than one with a queensize bed. hotel rooms. Surfing the Web is the best way to find out about special packages at specific hotels. ߜ Walk a lot. And many hotels won’t charge you the additional-person rate when that person is pint-size and related to you. If you’re headquartering in one city and making side trips to nearby towns. ߜ Ask about weekend.) ߜ Try expensive restaurants at lunch rather than dinner. Your photographs and memories make the best mementos of your trip. you get to know the city and its inhabitants more intimately. If you’re worried about your budget. always look for value-added fixed-price menus.

is the rate you get when you use your own currency to buy euros. which fluctuates daily. It usually takes five to seven business days. You also can check currency conversions online at www. 20. check the back of your ATM card for the network to which your bank belongs. price is less than $10. You also can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs. In addition.xe. Cirrus (% 800-424-7787. Using ATMs and carrying cash The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an automated teller machine (ATM). Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time your card is used at a different bank’s ATM. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad.S.mastercard. and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. At some are the most popular If you’ve forgotten yours. the amount you can withdraw must be in a checking (not a savings) account. The coins have different sizes. check with your bank or look in the newspaper to find out the current rate. In general. and outside banks. shapes. 1€ = $ www. I round it off to the nearest nickel. and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. if more than $ and PLUS (% 800-8437587. the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own ATM fee.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 59 available in 5. I use this approximate exchange rate for prices in this book. you find 24-hour ATMs (often called Geldautomat) in airports. (If the U. then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. or didn’t even know you had one. In German cities. many banks now assess a 1 percent to 3 percent “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency). and weights according to value. euros take a bit of getting used to. 100. 50. to the nearest dollar. and 500 denominations. though some banks provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. provided you know your PIN. train stations.) When you’re about to leave on your trip. The exchange rate. 200. 10. call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. Each bank-note denomination has its own color. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you . Make sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home. www. Charging ahead with credit cards Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses. As with any unfamiliar currency. and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart.

5 percent and 2 percent. Some credit-card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges. $100. You pay a service charge ranging from 1 percent to 4 percent. Currencyexchange windows in airports and rail stations generally are open daily from 6 a. American Express offers denominations of $20. Cashing traveler’s checks is more timeconsuming and can end up costing more because you must go to a bank or money-exchange service and pay a check-cashing fee. Changing your currency in Germany You can easily change cash or traveler’s checks by using a currency-exchange service called a Geldwechsel or bureau de change. you can always call the card’s toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused — a good reason to carry the phone number with you.m. as do some restaurants. . $50. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip. to 1 p. so having a backup is the smart way to go. and American Express offices. a card may not work for any number of reasons. These services are available in German airports. any branch of a major bank. many tourist information offices. Call % 800-223-9920 for a location near you. The service charge ranges between 1.60 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany factor in things like high ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates and service fees. Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the service charge.95 fee at most AAA offices or by calling % 866-339-3378.m. and $1.000.m. Toting traveler’s checks These days. post offices countrywide. $500. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank.000. Banks generally are open weekdays from 8:30 a. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling % 800-221-7282. many pensions (B&Bs) with one to three guest rooms operate on a cash-only basis. and 2:30 to 4 p. $100.m. $50. traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that enable you to withdraw (usually for a fee) small amounts of cash as needed.m. AAA members can get Visa checks for a $9. to 10 p. all major rail stations. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. Even if you don’t call your credit-card company in advance. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide and at several other banks. Call % 800-732-1322 for information. and (for cardholders only) $1. checks come in denominations of $20. $500. In smaller German towns and villages.

com). Hamburg. Heidelberg. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately.equifax.experian. if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID. Dresden. If you need emergency cash during the weekend. Find Citibank branches in Berlin. Hamburg. and file a report at the nearest police precinct. among other cities. www. they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. You can find addresses for American Express offices throughout Germany at www. Experian (% 888-3973742.S.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 61 If you choose to carry traveler’s checks.westernunion. The three major U. call your airline and explain the situation. Your credit-card company or insurer may require a police-report number or record of the loss. call the toll-free number directory at % 800-5551212. Leipzig. www. and Munich. www. Cologne. www. For addresses of Citibanks in Germany. and TransUnion (% 800-680-7289. Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet. when all banks and American Express offices are closed. . American Express has offices in Berlin. the airline may allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed. americanexpress. If your credit card gets lost or stolen while you’re in Germany. you can have money wired to you via Western Union (% 800-325-6000. Frankfurt. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (% 800-766-0008.citibank. Finally. Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet Be sure to contact all your credit-card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. Citibank customers using ATMs at German branches of Citibank don’t pay additional withdrawal fees. placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in case they’re stolen or especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. Most credit-card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen. call the following numbers: ߜ American Express % 954-503-8850 (collect) ߜ MasterCard % 0800/819-1040 (toll-free) ߜ Visa % 0800/811-8440 (toll-free) or 417-581-9994 (collect) For other credit and Munich. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers. You can avoid paying a second commission fee by using American Express traveler’s checks and cashing them at an American Express Leipzig. go online to www.

if the service has been very good. A Tip about Tipping As a general rule. you’re staying in an expensive hotel with porters who carry your bags (1€/$1. and you can’t avoid paying it.62 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Taking Taxes into Account Germany’s version of a sales tax. of course. have the voucher stamped by German Customs to confirm that the goods have been exported. located at all major airports. service charges are included in the bill.) This tax isn’t a hidden expense. If you’re not a resident of the European Union. Most stores have a minimum amount that you must spend to qualify for the refund. ferry ports. . Then.25 per bag carried) and doormen who hail you a cab (1€/$1. (The general hotel and restaurant prices in this book include VAT. which must be completed by the store and must have a copy of your sales receipt attached to it. Germany isn’t a country where you must tip excessively. and railroad stations. Before checking your luggage upon your departure from Germany. you can add 5 percent to 10 percent to your bill. you can get a VAT refund on purchases made in Germany (excluding hotel and restaurant bills). redeem the voucher for cash (euros or dollars) at a Europe Tax-Free Shopping window. you receive a tax-free voucher. To receive a refund. Otherwise.25 per successful hail). This hefty percentage already is figured into the total prices of consumer goods and hotel and restaurant bills. shop at stores displaying a Tax-Free Shopping sign. In restaurants. or round up to the next euro. When you make a qualifying purchase. unless. called the Mehrwertsteuer (abbreviated MWST) or value-added tax (abbreviated VAT). amounts to 16 percent. border crossings.

nonstop flights? How can you save money on your flight (and your hotel)? What are the pros and cons of taking an escorted tour? You find answers to your basic travel questions here. Detroit. You also can fly to Cologne. Dallas/Fort Worth. and Düsseldorf. See the appendix at the back of this book for a list of the main international carriers with direct flights into Germany from the United States. New York JFK. Houston. that is). San Francisco. Miami. Paris.Chapter 6 Getting to Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Deciding which German city to fly into ᮣ Saving on airfare and booking online ᮣ Arriving in Germany by train or boat ᮣ Joining an escorted tour ᮣ Finding out how a package tour can save you money N ow that you’ve decided to visit Deutschland (Germany. Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where In Germany. but if you’re coming from the United States. is Germany’s main international hub. I discuss getting you to Germany. an airport is called a Flughafen (floog-haf-en). Los Angeles. The following airlines offer direct flights: ߜ Lufthansa. the United Kingdom. you’re going to need to find a way to hop across that little puddle called the Atlantic. Philadelphia. Portland (Oregon). and Australia. Nuremberg. Canada. has direct flights to Frankfurt from Atlanta. D. and Washington. these routes require a change of planes — usually in Frankfurt.. and other cities in Germany. Flying into Frankfurt Frankfurt airport. Amsterdam. but direct flights from the United States fly only into Frankfurt. Stuttgart. Berlin (one flight only). Chicago. Boston. Newark. Copenhagen. and from Toronto and Vancouver. or London. Germany has several airports.C. Munich. What are your options for direct. called Flughafen Frankfurt Main. . In this chapter. Germany’s national carrier (now partnered with United Airlines and Air Canada).

ߜ British Airways flies direct to Frankfurt from London. Although no direct flights are scheduled from the U. Chicago.S. Lufthansa flies nonstop to Munich from Newark. In each city section of this guide. See Chapter 15 for more about flying into Munich. British Airways and British Midland fly direct to Cologne from the United Kingdom.64 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ American Airlines has nonstop service to Frankfurt from Dallas/ Fort Worth. hop on a train. See Chapter 11 for a complete description of Berlin’s airports. Flying into other German airports Here’s a brief rundown of other major airports in Germany and some of the airlines that fly into them. this airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world (completely accessible for the disabled). . ߜ Northwest Airlines (partnered with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines) flies nonstop to Frankfurt from Boston. Paul. Australia. Chicago. ߜ Qantas flies to Frankfurt from Melbourne and Sydney. I give you more specific information about how to get into the city from the airport. you can easily reach other cities in eastern Germany by train. but you probably will fly into Tegel.. Delta currently is the only airline that flies direct to Berlin from New York. ߜ Cologne: Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn is a good spot to land whenever you’re planning to tour western Germany and the Rhineland wine country.C. and you’re close to Hamburg and the northern Hanseatic cities (see Chapter 13). Direct flights also are scheduled from most major European cities. and San Francisco. Opened in 1992. Minneapolis/St. which is quite small but has easy public transportation into central Berlin. Chicago. especially Dresden. D. Flights to other cities in Germany from Frankfurt rarely take more than 11⁄2 hours. For more information on the Frankfurt airport. so you can fly in. ߜ Berlin: Berlin has two airports. located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. and Washington. D. Excursion boats leave from Cologne for trips on the Rhine and other German rivers (see Chapter 19). and Miami. see Chapter 20. ߜ Delta Air Lines has daily nonstops from Newark and Atlanta. From Berlin. is Germany’s second-largest airport. ߜ United Airlines offers nonstop service to Frankfurt from Chicago and Washington. Delta flies nonstop from Atlanta. The airport has its own train station. JFK. Leipzig. ߜ Munich: Franz Josef Strauss International Airport. and British Airways flies nonstop from London. and be off to your first destination. Boston.C. and Weimar (see all in Chapter 14).

Aer Lingus flies nonstop from Dublin.statravel. stay overnight Saturday. FlyCheap (% 800-FLY-CHEAP [800-359-2432]. and yet prices can vary by hundreds of dollars. From Dü is owned by package-holiday .Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 65 ߜ Düsseldorf: Although I don’t cover Düsseldorf in this guidebook (the closest city that I cover is Cologne in Chapter 19). Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections. Obviously.S. www. Consolidators. reaching the Rhine Valley is easy. .com) has excellent fares worldwide. and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. Every airline offers virtually the same product (basically. particularly to Europe. Getting the best airfare Competition among the major U. Lufthansa and Continental offer direct flights from Newark. you can qualify for the least-expensive price — usually a fraction of the full fare. you nevertheless can use the airport in Düsseldorf as an alternative to Cologne. also known as bucket shops. offers good fares for travelers of all ages. www. the world’s leader in student travel. Wed. As you plan your vacation. . ). Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. such as Frankfurt and Munich. Business travelers who need the flexibility of being able to buy their tickets at the last minute and changing their itineraries at a moment’s notice — and who want to get home before the weekend — pay a premium rate. but you can’t beat the prices. are great sources for international tickets. keep your eyes open for these sales. but they often can’t beat the November. and January through March in Germany. or Thurs). British Midland has flights from London. and you’re willing to travel midweek (Tues. which tend to take place in seasons of low travel volume: (% 800/TRAV-800. If you can book your ticket far in advance. ELTExpress (Flights. Delta offers service from Atlanta via Paris. Bucket-shop tickets usually are nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties. a coach seat is a coach seat is a . planning ahead pays. STA Travel (% 800-781-4040. ߜ Hamburg: Direct flights to Flughafen Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel are scheduled from most major European cities. airlines is unlike that of any other industry. These fares have advance-purchase requirements and date-of-travel restrictions. known as the full fare. often as high as 50 percent to 75 percent of the ticket price. www. The airlines also periodically hold sales in which they lower the prices on their most popular routes. but none arrive directly from the United States.

And you don’t have to fly to earn points. Most of these deals are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased often with a mysterious change of planes en route. Expedia and Travelocity also will send you an e-mail notification whenever a cheap fare to your favorite destination becomes and www. If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight details. of those carriers. which have the most advantageous alliances. Air Tickets Direct (% 888-858-8884.S. residents can go for expedia. faster response to phone inquiries. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline Web sites or check megasites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute (Canadian travelers need to try or if you want to change your seat. and www. SideStep (www. Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the airlines. and prompter service if your luggage is stolen or your flight is canceled or delayed. but some can be booked weeks or months in advance.insideflyer. frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday given your most common routes.orbitz. The mystery airlines all are major. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage. and Orbitz ( well-known carriers — and the possibility of being sent from New York . Of the smaller travel agency Web sites. Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a cent.priceline. Both offer rock-bottom prices in exchange for traveling on a mystery airline at a mysterious time of day. www. so shopping around is wise. Most are valid for travel only that weekend. Investigate the program details of your favorite airlines before you sink points into any one. use an opaque fare service like Priceline (www.66 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany megalith MyTravel and has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. Booking your flight online The “big three” online travel agencies. Expedia (www. such as Smarter Travel ( receives good reviews from in Europe often have better deals than the major-label sites. With more than 70 mileage awards programs on the market. It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once” but in reality beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites do. com) and opodo.K. Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends.) Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same flights. sell most air tickets bought on the is based in Montreal and leverages the Canadian-dollar exchange rate for low fares. consult Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www. Consider which airlines have hubs in the airport nearest you. www.lastminute. For last-minute trips. but it does entitle you to better in the or Hotwire (www.airtickets direct. consumers have never had more options. Travelocity ( and.

When you’re traveling between ߜ www. are taken care of onboard the train. I discuss traveling around Germany by train and the various rail passes that can cut down on transportation costs. 800-361-7245 in Canada. but you almost always find one main or central inner-city station called a Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). In Chapter 7. contact Rail Europe (% 888-3827245 in the ߜ www. Denmark. Arriving by boat Germany’s northern coast lies along the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. DFDS Seaways (% 800-533-3755. But your chances of getting a 6 a. Priceline usually has better deals than Hotwire. 114 in the U. high-speed Thalys trains link Cologne and Düsseldorf with Paris and Brussels. You can reach all major German cities by train with ease. www.kayak. have more than one station. and sleek. Traveling by train Germany is extremely well connected by train to the rest of Europe.lastminutetravel. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you buy. fares.S. or 11 p. EuroCity (EC) trains connect Germany with neighboring countries. to . Finland. ext. Other helpful Web sites for booking airline tickets online include ߜ www. Trains are very much a part of the German (and European) travel ethic.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 67 to Frankfurt via Detroit is remote. Russia. such as passport provides ferry service from Harwich. Perhaps you’re flying into Paris and from there going on to Berlin or Heidelberg as part of your European dream vacation. border flight are pretty high. Latvia.biddingfortravel. International ferry services are available from the United Kingdom..S. promotional Arriving by Other Means Germany is accessible by land and sea. I tell you how to get into the city center from the train station. but you have to play their “name our price” game. such as Berlin and ߜ www.m. Major cities. For more information about trains in Europe.cheapflights. so it’s easy to include Germany as part of a larger European trip. www. Poland.m. and rail-pass prices. and Estonia.opodo. Sweden. Have no fear.raileurope. which usually is conveniently located. ߜ www. England. Its Web site provides useful trip-planning information on train schedules and travel times. and from all directions. In every city section of this guide. and Canada.

especially when the tour operator asks you to pay upfront. so you don’t encounter many surprises. but the information can help you select a tour that’s sure to take place. tour operators may be evasive with their answers. along with finding out whether you have to put down a deposit and when final payment is due. If a quota exists.68 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Hamburg. You know your costs upfront. you have no reason to think that the tour operator will fulfill its insurance obligations either.m. I strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance. (I tell you more about travel insurance in Chapter 10. The tour company takes care of all the details and tells you what to expect on each leg of your journey. Silja Lines (same telephone and Web site as for DFDS Seaways) sails from Helsinki across the Baltic to Rostock in northern Germany. ߜ What exactly is included? Don’t assume anything. You may be required to get yourself to and from the airports at your own expense. ߜ How big is the group? The smaller the group. every day and not returning to your hotel until 6 or 7 p. but drinks . the journey takes 20 hours. ask a few simple questions before you buy: ߜ What is the cancellation policy? How late can you cancel if you can’t go? Do you get a refund if you cancel? Do you get a refund if the operator cancels? ߜ How jampacked is the schedule? Does the tour schedule try to fit 25 hours into a 24-hour day. Again. or does it give you ample time to relax or shop? If getting up at 7 a. Joining an Escorted Tour Some travelers to foreign destinations prefer escorted tours. Get travel insurance through an independent agency. find out what it is and how close they are to reaching it. A box lunch may be included in an excursion. certain escorted tours may not be for you. Tour operators may be evasive about providing this fact.) When choosing an escorted tour. ߜ Does the tour require a minimum group size? Some tour operators require a minimum group size and may cancel the tour when they don’t book enough people. but they should be able to give you a rough estimate. the less time you spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle.m. If you decide to go with an escorted tour. sounds like a grind. because they may not know the exact size of the group until everybody has made their reservations. But don’t buy insurance from the tour operator! If the tour operator doesn’t fulfill its obligation to provide you with the vacation you paid for.

contiki.079 per person double occupancy without airfare) and its 11-day.maupintour. Its 12-day European Horizon tour (from $1. ߜ Contiki Holidays (% 866-CONTIKI. and a nine-day Berlin-to-Bohemia tour that takes you to Berlin. That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour operators. www. Beer may be included but not wine.279 per person double occupancy without airfare) include stops in the Rhine Valley and Munich. Canada.brendan vacations. ߜ Globus (www. ߜ Maupintour (www. with no exceptions? Are all your meals planned in advance? Can you choose your entree at dinner. Meissen.959 without airfare). including Berlin. and Prague (from $2. Many escorted-tour companies cater to special interests. Dresden. and transportation to and from the airport costs less than the hotel alone on a tour you book yourself. The following companies offer escorted tours to Germany: ߜ Brendan Worldwide Vacations (% offers escorted grand and highlight tours that cover most of Germany. Neuschwanstein and Oberammergau. Australia. 8-country European Magic tour (from $1. In many cases. Potsdam. and the United Kingdom. not including airfare.” a nine-day Rhine cruise that includes visits to vineyards and trips to Cologne and Heidelberg. Neuschwanstein. an eight-day Bavaria and Bodensee tour with stops in Munich. Choosing a package tour For many destinations.879 without airfare).globusjourneys. such as castles on the Rhine for history buffs.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 69 may be extra.649. and destinations in the rest of Germany (or include Germany in a Europe-wide tour). Contiki also offers an escorted eight-day Berlin–Prague trip. 35-year-olds and has offices in the United States. while others are more general. a package tour that includes offers “Romantic Rhine. A good travel agent can help you find a tour that suits your particular interests.brennanvactions. . Black Forest. www. who then resell them to the public. or does everybody get the same chicken cutlet? Tour operators in the United States Several companies offer escorted tours to has an eight-day escorted tour of German Christmas Market Towns from $2. hotel. package tours can be a smart way to go. and Leipzig. Cologne. com) provides escorted tours in western and southern Germany. www. including a stay in a castle on the Rhine and exploration of German vineyards. How much flexibility does the tour offer? Can you opt out of certain activities. Munich. or does the bus leave once a provides escorted tours for 18. and Mainau (from $2. ߜ Brennan Vacations (% 800-237-7249.

others allow you to add on just a few excursions or escorted daytrips (also at discounted prices) without booking an entirely escorted tour. and an array of sightseeing and transportation add-ons. and Condé Nast Traveler. others sell charters. departure cities. ߜ United Vacations (% 800-800-1504. Some book flights on scheduled airlines. and a day tour of Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof vacations. ߜ Northwest Airlines World Vacations (% has a hotel/airfare package to Frankfurt from a number of U. or go online to www. Other good sources of package deals are the airlines. check out the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper or the ads in the back of national travel magazines. airlines offered packages to Germany from the United States in 2006: ߜ Continental Airlines Vacations (% 800-301-3800. Some let you choose between escorted vacations and independent vacations.nwa worldvacations. a daylong Rhine tour from Frankfurt. www. www. National Geographic Traveler. Munich. If a packager won’t tell you where it’s has air/hotel packages to Berlin. and Frankfurt. Prices depend on your departure city. www. If you’re unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager. has air/hotel packages to Frankfurt. In some packages. Liberty Travel (call % 888-271-1584. Travelocity. check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. which typically amount to about $80. ߜ Delta Vacations (% 800-221-6666. www. and many let you choose the hotel category you want.deltavacations. Several big online travel agencies — Expedia. and Lastminute. some provide the same hotels for lower prices. Locating airline and hotel packages To find package tours. The following Site59.bbb.S. your choice of accommodations and travel days may be limited. such as Travel + Leisure. Airline packages don’t always include airport taxes and offers flight and hotel packages to Frankfurt and Munich. You also can rent a car or buy a Eurailpass for train travel. and Berlin. Add-ons include a Munich city tour. .com) is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast and usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers. Munich.70 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Every package tour is different. — also do a brisk business in packages. don’t fly with it.

If you want to get a feel for the country. food. in the north. and Canada. You’ll notice fascinating differences in culture.Chapter 7 Getting Around Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling through Germany by train ᮣ Touring the sites by car ᮣ Cruising the rivers of Germany ᮣ Flying from city to city n this chapter. and language as you travel from one part of Germany to another. you can get from Berlin. Germany (356. consider exploring at least a portion of Germany that has nothing to do with huge urban Berlin or Munich. When you get out of the cities and into the countryside. From Munich. Heidelberg. the trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps is only an hour by car and less than 90 minutes by train. the mode of travel best suited to your needs and itinerary. From Berlin you can reach Dresden or Leipzig in about two hours. The train trip between Hamburg and Lübeck is less than an hour. to Munich. miles) is smaller than the state of Montana (but with more than 80 million people). Australia. the country is a snap to explore. in about seven or eight hours. Nuremberg — usually are no more than two or three hours apart by car or train. where you can sip wine in a small Rhineland village or explore a scenic region like Bavaria. you find out more about your travel options within Germany — that is. km/137. By fast train or car. Many historic towns and castles in Germany are manageable daytrips from larger cities.734 sq. The cities in western Germany — Cologne. Stuttgart. With the area added by reunification. I Weighing the Options: Train or Car? Because of Germany’s comparatively small size and easy-access train and road networks. Compared with the United States. Germany is a fairly small country. customs. . in the south.735 sq. the atmospheric charms of Germany are most strongly felt.

reaching speeds of 265kmph (165 mph). I recommend train travel for its convenience. are among the fastest in Europe. and fun. you can choose whether to sit in a compartment with six seats or in an open saloon coach. enabling passengers to cross the entire country in only a few hours. Traveling by train is I recommend traveling by train above all other forms of transportation — especially if you’re a first-time visitor to Germany. What follows is a rundown of the trains that you find within Germany: ߜ InterCity (IC) passenger trains offer express service between all major German cities at intervals of one or two hours. You may be surprised by the bright-red.72 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany So should you rent a car or take the train? In almost all cases. and telephone service. a restaurant. individual reading lights. www. German trains almost always run on time. and convenient. Following basic training Throughout Germany. and from Berlin to Munich. . yes. in English. On IC trains. ICE significantly reduces travel time. and a high standard of comfort in both first and second classes. a train is called an Eisenbahn (eye-sen-bawn) or a Zug (zoog). Each train makes stops at cities along the way. The railway system in Germany is operated by Deutsche Bahn (DB. If you need any kind of train-related information while you’re in Germany — from timetables to fares and special services — call DB’s general information number at % 11861. enables you to explore the countryside more easily. speed. which connect major cities on heavily traveled routes. ICE trains run from Hamburg to Munich. IC trains have adjustable cushioned seats. German Rail in English). Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go In Germany. ICE trains have telephones. Train types The federally owned and operated Deutsche Bahn has been modernizing and upgrading its trains steadily while integrating two different systems (Deutsche Bundesbahn in western Germany and Deutsche Reichsbahn in eastern Germany) into one.bahn. However. fun. Dining cars (Speisewagen. from Frankfurt to Munich. long-distance and local train timetables are coordinated to minimize waiting for connections. at DB’s Web site. ߜ InterCity Express (ICE) trains. having a car in scenic areas. Someone who speaks English will be available to help you. pronounced shpy-zuhvahg-en) and cafe or bistro cars (for lighter snacks) are on all trains. And. You also can access train information online. such as the Black Forest (Chapter 17) or the Romantic Road in Bavaria (Chapter 16). high-tech look of the newest trains.

Berlin and Dresden. This train operates between Berlin and Zurich (stopping at Frankfurt. and a panoramic window with blinds. The CNL includes a restaurant and cafe car. S-Bahn (urban light-rail) trains are used. The night trains have comfortable couchettes (basic sleeping compartments) and some more deluxe sleeping compartments with showers. you find a well-marked button that automatically opens the door. All German trains are divided into smoking (rauchen. Paris. key cards. Economy provides a four-bed compartment with washing facilities (you can book this class as a single or double). The Ruhesessel (sleeper chair) category offers open saloon seating with reclining seats. In new high-speed trains. so have your luggage in hand and be ready to disembark when the train comes to a halt. phones for wake-up service. Sleeping accommodations in Deluxe include compartments with a shower and toilet. Prague. which now sometimes is called standard class. The CNL offers four different categories. First-class service on InterCity Express (ICE) trains includes a higher standard of personal service. Eurail and GermanRail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation. you may need to transfer to a RegionalBahn (RB) train to reach your destination. among other towns). and a more luxurious feel. Baden-Baden. fewer passengers. You can specify your preference when reserving your seat. you may need to open the door by pulling up on a handle. Station stops are short. Brussels. Ticket classes German trains have a two-tiered ticket system: first class (Erste Klasse) and second class (Zweite Klasse).Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 73 ߜ The CityNightLine (CNL) is one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe. You may appreciate the difference on long-distance journeys — from Berlin to Munich. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations. usually within a suburban area around a large town. you can order beverages and snacks that . and Freiburg. and Copenhagen. ߜ For shorter local trips. ߜ DB Nachtzug (Night Train) service is available between many cities in Germany and continues on to Amsterdam. For some outof-the-way places. pronounced raukin) and nonsmoking (nicht rauchen. RegionalExpress (RE) trains link rural areas to the long-distance rail network. In other trains. Comfort Single or Double gives you a singleor double-bed compartment with washing facilities. First-class tickets cost about one-third more than second class. An announcement is made before the train arrives at each station. and Dortmund and Vienna. Hamburg and Zurich. The first-class cars have roomier seats. pronounced nickt rau-kin) sections. say. But you can travel quite comfortably in second class. when you’re onboard the train for seven hours or more.

comes along for the ride. When you reach your destination. In large cities. If your train leaves at 4:20 p. including currency exchange. the time on the schedule reads 16:20. food and beverages. On some trains. Like other European trains. pronounced glice) for your departing train. up to 23:59 (11:59 p.m. light-rail.). Although less common. porters (recognized by their red or blue uniforms) can transport your luggage.m. you can check your luggage (Gepäck. The station always is a main link in the city’s public transportation system. If you’re loaded down with several large.). or you can use self-service luggage trolleys available for 1€ ($1. tram. rarely is more than a few minutes’ walk from the historic town center and all the main attractions.m.m. Local and commuter trains don’t have food service. train times can be 13:00 (1 p. stowed elsewhere. you can take an elevator to the track level. final destinations.). prominently placed departure and arrival boards list train numbers. German train stations in major cities offer all kinds of services. departure is Abfahrt (ob-fahrt).).) Getting off on the right track After arriving at the station.and second-class passengers otherwise use the same dining cars and cafe cars for buying sandwiches and drinks. If you’re arriving in a city for sightseeing only.m. pronounced geh-peck) at a luggage checkroom. or bus from there. Therefore. But in others. In many German train stations. 14:00 (2 p. you can pick up your car and go. This information also is posted as a printed schedule in the station.. and so on. heavy bags. Midnight always is listed as 0:00 hours and noon is 12:00. you need to find the right track (Gleis. arrival or departure times. The German word for arrival is Ankunft (on-koonft). Hotels are always close at hand. so you can continue your local explorations by subway. Heading to the Hauptbahnhof A German city’s Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). At larger stations. newsstands. the German train system works on a 24-hour clock. daytime automobile trains also operate.74 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany are brought to your seat. you can take yourself and your car on an overnight car-sleeper Auto Train. and track numbers. getting to your track without help may be difficult. and usually a tourist information office. 15:00 (3 p. which sometimes have a ramp for luggage trolleys and baby carriages. an employee comes through both first. while your automobile. or main train station.and second-class cars with a food-and-beverage trolley. and not spending the night. you must climb stairs.25). You ride in a sleeper compartment on the train. . Auto trains If you want to avoid long-distance driving but need a car after you arrive at your destination. (Just another way of saying: Don’t overpack. First.

Diagrams posted on the platform show the layout of first-class. Saving time and euros with rail passes Rail passes are tickets that enable you to travel for a certain number of days without buying a ticket for each leg of your journey. The Wagen numbers correspond with numbers or letters on the platform. make your way to the platform areas where the first. make your booking at the ticket counter. look for the Reisezentrum (travel center). Reserving your seat When traveling for any distance in Germany. 178 Piccadilly.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 75 If you have a reserved seat. do a little research to find out whether it’s going to save you money. usually 1 to 6 or A to G. you can click on “Fares and Schedules” and get an estimated cost (in U. You can also find exact fares on Deutsche Bahn’s Web If you have a Eurailpass. They help you save time (ticket lines can be long) and. In larger stations. pronounced plotz) reservation and buy train tickets (Fahrkarten. Trains can be very long. At Rail Europe’s Web site. they can’t be purchased after you arrive in Germany or the rest of Europe. Web site: www. and restaurant cars. If you have a German Rail Pass or a Eurailpass (see the next section). your ticket lists the car and seat number. Otherwise. but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U.S.S. Or stop in at the Rail Europe Travel Centre. London WI .. even if you have a Eurailpass or German Rail Pass. bahn. the seat reservation costs 3€ ($3. is numbered.75). or far-karten) at any train station. so you want to be near the appropriate area for boarding when your train pulls into the station.raileurope. or Canadian dollars) of fares between destinations within Germany.or second-class cars will stop. or Wagen (vah-ghen). the staff usually speaks English and can answer any questions you have. Before you buy a rail pass. In larger Most rail passes must be purchased before you leave or 800/361-7245 in Canada. and you’re risking a journey without a seat reservation. In smaller stations. Check the diagram and then make your way to the appropriate area of the platform before the train arrives. usually. Each car. www. reserving your seat in advance. which allows you to order by phone or online. Travel agents throughout the United States and Canada sell all the rail passes described later in this section. the only free seat you find may be in the smoking area or out in the hallway (I speak from experience). www. com. second-class. You can make a seat (Platz. Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Germany and continental Europe.K. www. is always a good idea. You’re issued a ticket that lists the Wagen (car) number and the Platz (seat) number. money. You can check out passes and prices at Rail Europe’s U. raileurope.

These passes are for consecutive days of travel. and Mosel rivers.raileurope.108 for 3 months. each additional day costs $38 first class. The 15-day Eurailpass costs $605. you can purchase a Eurailpass Youth. With a Eurailpass you can enjoy unlimited first-class rail travel in 18 countries. If you’re younger than 26. $897 for 2 months. including destinations not serviced by trains. Passes are for periods as short as 15 days or as long as 3 months.. The second pass represents a 50 percent savings over single prices. and $1. German Rail Passes are most conveniently available from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. Children younger than 6 travel free. and free travel on KD German Line steamers (daytrips only) along the Rhine. $634 for 1 month. Sample prices: $163 for four days. you can purchase the passes online at www. Main. each additional day $ Rail Europe also provides cost-effective “Rail ’n Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car. For instance. including Germany. .K). for two adults (they do not have to be married and can be of the same sex) traveling together in first or second class. German Rail Passes for kids ages 6 to 11 are half the adult price. spend three days exploring the city. you can ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich. and then rent a car for a two-day excursion into the Bavarian Alps to see Ludwig’s castles.S. Some of the most popular passes. with additional days available for a reduced price. A German Rail Youth Pass is valid only for persons younger than 26 years of age and is available only in second class. or 800-361-7245 in Canada).76 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany (% 08708/371-371 in the U. including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth. $510 for 21 days. An even bigger bargain is the German Rail Twinpass. Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe The Eurailpass is one of Europe’s best bargains. German rail passes: For Deutschland only The German Rail Pass allows for four consecutive or nonconsecutive days of travel in one month within Germany. $25 second class. A German Rail Pass also entitles the bearer to free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus. Sample prices per person: $200 for four days first class or $150 for second class. entitling you to unlimited second-class travel for $394 for 15 days. A four-day pass costs $263 first class or $200 second class. these passes allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries. are available only to travelers younger than 26 years of age.

See the appendix for a list of names and contact information. I recommend that you make all the arrangements before you leave home. however. good for first-class travel for 10 or 15 days in a 2-month period. Germany has scenic regions — the Romantic Road. and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. or 800361-7245 in Canada. Renting a car in Germany Renting a car is fairly easy in Germany. in some cases. You get an easy-to-understand net price (which you have to prepay by credit card at least 14 days before departure). for example — where even I succumb to car rental to explore the countryside. and Eurail Selectpass. Drivers from the United States. . www. A host of different Eurailpass options are which cost extra. have to pay a penalty of around $25) for changing or canceling a prepaid contract. To me. that if you opt to prepay and your plans change. Remember. the rental process is more streamlined. and the Black Forest. You can often rent a car in one German city and return the vehicle in another city for no additional charge.S. Several international car-rental firms rent cars in Germany. You can pick up your car at most airports and major train stations. and Benzin I’m a Zug (train) nut. Canada. Prepaying rentals in dollars before leaving the United States offers some advantages. Australia. nothing is more pleasant than sitting in a train and watching the countryside roll by. Eurailpass Saver for two to five persons traveling together. Seat reservations are required on some trains. Touring by Car: Autobahns. Whenever you rent. four. but no other special license is required.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 77 Eurailpasses can be bought and used only by non-European residents. or at an office within German cities. from a travel agent or from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. Eurailpass holders also are entitled to considerable reductions on certain buses and ferries. you have to go through some rather complicated paperwork (and. the Bodensee. Buy your Eurailpass before you leave home. However.raileurope. you may want to pick up a copy of Frommer’s Germany’s Best-Loved Driving Tours (Wiley). keep in mind that you may get a better rate if you reserve the car at least seven days in advance. If you’re going to tour Germany by car. allowing travelers to select three. Tankstellen. or five countries linked by rail or ferry. The night trains have couchettes (sleeping cars). and other non–European Union countries must have a valid driver’s license.. including the Eurail Pass Flexi.

” earlier in this chapter). individual Autobahns are indicated by the letter A followed by a number. but many drivers going too fast report that they’ve been stopped by police and fined on the spot. finding your way by looking for directional signs rather than highway number signs is easier. fast lane). in general. Michelin publishes the best regional maps. In theory. The Bundesstrassen in the major touring areas of the Romantic Road in Bavaria.78 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany You can also rent a car through Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. Germany’s road signs are standard international signs.raileurope. The government recommends an Autobahn speed limit of 130kmph (80 mph).S. you’ll pay for all damages up to the cost of actually replacing the vehicle. www. B31). In eastern Germany. In this book. so if your own car insurance doesn’t cover you abroad. so you may prefer the slower.. They offer a German Rail ’n Drive option that gives you two days of unlimited train travel (first or second class) and two days of Hertz car rental within one month. or 800-361-7245 in Canada. consider taking out Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) for extra liability coverage. So exercise reasonable caution. and the Black Forest are smoothly paved and kept in good repair. right lane. If you don’t have a CDW and have an accident. A Collision-Damage Waiver (CDW) is an optional insurance policy that can be purchased when you sign a rental agreement. You can purchase extra days for both train travel and car rental. some secondary and local roads are not in good shape. Hallweg also produces good road maps. A German driver on the Autobahn can be like one possessed. and Bundesstrassen. the Autobahn does not have a speed limit (in the left. I recommend that you purchase all the optional insurance coverage. or someone else. See Table 7-1 for a few important words that you should know. .com) at the same time you book your German Rail Pass or Eurailpass (see “Saving time and euros with rail passes. However. If you rent a car in Germany. so call your company to check on these benefits before you spend the extra money on additional insurance. Some credit cards (especially platinum and gold cards) cover the CDW. by the letter B (examples: A96. the Rhine Valley. The Bundesstrassen (state roads) vary in quality from region to region. Taking the roads less traveled The roads that make up the Autobahn (pronounced otto-bahn) form Germany’s main long-distance highway network. Neither the CDW nor credit-card companies cover liability if you injure yourself. which are available at all major bookstores throughout Germany. another passenger.

or beginning Exit Building site. the left lane is the fast lane. Children younger than 12 must sit on booster seats in the back so that regular seat belts can be used safely.62 of a mile. ߜ The law requires that all passengers wear seat belts. and a mile is 1.62km. you need to know a few general facts: ߜ Signs show distances and speed limits in kilometers (km) and kilometers per hour (kmph). ߜ Unless posted differently. German motorists generally flash their lights if they want you to move over so they can pass. A kilometer is 0. or roadwork One-way street Entrance End Danger Turn left Turn right Road narrows Attention! Look out! Following the rules of the road If you’re going to drive in Germany. Do not drive in this lane unless you are passing another car. Children younger than 4 must ride in a car seat.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 79 Table 7-1 German Anfang Ausfahrt Baustelle Einbahnstrasse Einfahrt Ende Gefahr Links einbiegen Rechts einbiegen Verengte Fahrbahn Vorsicht German Road Signs English Translation Start. ߜ You can pass other vehicles only on the left. speed limits are • 50kmph (30 mph) in towns • 100kmph (60 mph) on regular highways • 130kmph (78 mph) on Autobahns ߜ On Autobahns. And I mean fast. .

which flows through the heart of Europe from the Alps to the North Sea. Fill ’er up. ߜ You must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. The self-service process is basically the same as that of the United States. The cheapest gasoline is at stations marked SB-TANKEN (Selbstbedienung. If you’ve had more than a glass of wine or beer. the point of the black triangle on posts alongside the road indicates the direction of the nearest phone. If you have a breakdown on the Autobahn. but you pay for parts and materials. Through the centuries. is readily available throughout Germany. On the Autobahn. Handling a roadside emergency The major automobile club in Germany is Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobile Club (ADAC). called Benzin (ben-seen). ask for “road service assistance” (Strassenwachthilfe). ߜ Parking in the center of most big towns is difficult. or self-service). Filling up the tank of a medium-sized car will usually cost about 60€ ($75). call ADAC’s breakdown service at % 01802/222-222. you find emergency phones every 2km (about 11⁄4 miles). more castles were built in the Rhine Valley than in any other valley in the world. You fill your tank and pay inside at the counter. and gas stations. or just plain impossible. You insert coins (or credit cards) to purchase a certain amount of time. they have the right of way. But remember that gas is always much more expensive than in the United States. They are always identified by a large P. expensive. . Sailing through Germany: River Cruises Germany’s major river is the Rhine. Am Westpark 8.80 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ You must use low-beam headlights at night and during fog. in some larger cities. bitte (please) Gasoline. The types of gasoline are Normal Bleifrei (regular unleaded). Most parking lots use an automated ticket system. heavy rain. Super Plus Bleifrei (supreme unleaded). called Tankstelle (tonk-shtel-leh) appear frequently along the Autobahns. 81373 München (% 089/ 76760). In English. because most historic town centers are for pedestrians only. you can call ADAC from an emergency phone. Super Bleifrei (super unleaded). If you don’t belong to an auto club. Look for parking lots and parking garages outside the center. and diesel. don’t risk driving. Emergency assistance is free. signs on the way into town indicate how much space is available in various lots or parking garages. ߜ Driving while intoxicated and drinking while driving are very serious offenses in Germany. and snowfalls.

Itineraries range from 2 to 20 nights. which begins in the Czech Republic.. for example.S. A trip that normally takes seven or eight hours by train or car takes about an hour by plane. 1800 Diagonal Rd. and then getting into the city after your plane lands . The downside is that you won’t see the countryside. cuts through Germany’s eastern border in a beautiful area called Saxon Switzerland (see Chapter 14). Hamburg or Berlin in the north to Munich in the south.lufthansa. by train. VA 22314 (% 800-348-8287. or Peter Deilmann EuropAmerica Cruises.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 81 This area has great appeal to visitors. 21820 Burbank Blvd. mostly between April and October but with some in December. If you’re looking for an unusual and relaxing way to see Germany. You can fly this route. in the city center. but other European carriers are increasing their German domestic routes. 01803/803-803 in Germany. . you can already be Viking KD River Cruises and Peter Deilman EuropAmerica Cruises offer several cruises along these three great waterways. going through security. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. CA 91367 (% 877-66VIKING [845464]. say. but when you factor in time spent getting to the airport. Suite 170. Woodland Hills. com). or from Cologne in the west to Leipzig in the east. flows past the great art city of Dresden.lufthansa. In the city and regional chapters of this or www. The train from Frankfurt to Stuttgart. . Flying doesn’t make much sense if you’re traveling short distances between cities that are connected by high-speed offers the most extensive and frequent flights within the country. waiting for your departure. and Canada. The Elbe. and Heidelberg. www. you may want to consider this option. Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? Flying from city to city within Germany makes sense if you’re traveling from. Lufthansa (% 800-645-3880 in the U. Cologne. For more information. takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. www. Alexandria. and enters the Rhine at the city of Mainz. www. Frankfurt. and continues northeastward.rivercruises.. past Frankfurt. The Main flows from the Danube.deilmanncruises. I tell you about river excursions along the Mosel and Neckar rivers and local sightseeing cruises in Berlin. Dresden. situated on tributaries of the Elbe are Berlin and Hamburg. .

what to expect in each category. Munich. In Germany’s large cities. and how to get the best deal for your money. and every country offers its own lodging possibilities. but I still recommend doing so — particularly when you’re going to be spending a Friday or Saturday night in a major tourist spot like Dresden or Füssen. and the Bodensee (Lake Constance). Hotels in popular tourist areas. hotels in the inexpensive-to-moderate range always are first to be snapped up. In the following pages. From April through September. Throughout the year. Frankfurt. you won’t have a problem booking a room on the spot. especially in the middle of winter. also fill up quickly during high season. the Rhine and Mosel valleys. and again in December (the period that constitutes high season). near Ludwig’s castles.Chapter 8 Booking Your Accommodations In This Chapter ᮣ Checking out the options ᮣ Getting the best room for the best rate ᮣ Surfing for cyberdeals ᮣ Landing a room without a reservation T his chapter deals with that age-old question asked by every traveler going to an unfamiliar country or city: Where should I spend the night? Everyone travels differently. and other cities throughout the country play host to large trade fairs and special events that make hotel rooms scarce. wherever you are. Cologne. . In a small village. During off season. Booking ahead isn’t as important in the rest of Germany. booking your hotel room ahead is essential — especially if you’re going to be in Munich during Oktoberfest. how to book a room online. such as the Black Forest. finding a room may be as simple as spotting a sign in a house window that reads Zimmer frei (room available). like Berlin and Munich. you find out about German hotels — how to find them. Berlin.

The system isn’t used to recommend hotels but rather simply to categorize them according to their amenities. but you get that back at the hotel.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 83 Tourist information centers. you find a Decke (deck-uh) on the bed. so the service ends up costing nothing. Even the smallest Pension (bed-and-breakfast. small family-run hotels. Most tourist information centers also have a free directory of local accommodations. I don’t use that star-rating system in this book. eggs. breakfast may be coffee. a roll with butter and jam. This light. The term for “no smoking” is nicht rauchen (nickt rau-kin). Smoke-free rooms and smoke-free floors finally are catching on in Germany. chain hotels. cold cuts. In a pension. from luxury old-world palaces and super-high-tech showoffs to hip boutique hotels. and some cold cuts. except at some boutique and high-end luxury hotels. Some places charge nothing. instead. buttoned within a sheet. or B&B) must open its doors for inspection to be able to list and rent rooms. depending on the size and degree of luxury. You’re most likely to find them in midrange to high-end hotels. breakfast is more likely to be a self-serve buffet with juice. fruit. and local tourist boards control standards in all categories of accommodations. located in or near the main train stations in all German cities and towns. rustic guesthouses. you find a Decke on each side. and others charge 10 percent of the first night’s hotel rate. yogurt. But remember that Europeans in general are not as committed to smokefree environments as are Americans. cozy inns. cereal. If two beds are joined to make a double.75). You won’t find a speck of Schmutz (dirt) in any of them. Charges for this service vary. At hotels. an egg. feather-filled covering. Breakfast (Frühstück) always is included in the price of a room. regional tourist associations. can help you find a room. You find all types of lodging. A one-star hotel is basic and inexpensive. and smoked fish or pickled herring. and simple rooms in private homes and apartments. These same state agencies and tourist boards rate hotels according to a star system. A five-star hotel is a luxury property with an on-site spa or pool and a rate at the top end of the price spectrum. Finding the Place That’s Right for You Germany has very high standards for hotels and inns. Hotel associations. takes the place of blankets. others charge a small fixed fee (usually no more than 3€/$3. I try to give you the best options in different price categories. . fresh bread. A Decke is what Americans call a comforter or duvet. In all types of accommodations in Germany. pastries.

The hotel has at least two fine gourmet restaurants. The rooms themselves are generally spacious and beautifully furnished with amenities such as a minibar. The staff is unusually welcoming and the service impeccable. Boutique hotels generally have fewer than 70 rooms and offer a unique ambience and high level of personalized service. such as Relais & Châteaux. These establishments often are part of hotel associations. Park Plaza/ Art’otel. Pricewise. Swissôtel. Der Kleine Prinz in Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) is built around oldfashioned luxury. telephone. In the following sections. and Romantic Hotels. and the property has an on-site health club. I describe each type. Small Luxury Hotels. InterCity Hotels (always near train stations). and high-quality toiletries. 24-hour room service is available. German. they generally cost 150€ ($188) and up. Boutique hotels always have a fine-dining restaurant and a bar. Hotel Brandenburger Hof in Berlin (Chapter 11) emphasizes a sleek. Some brand-name hotel chains — Hyatt. but they are beautifully fitted out. Sheraton. highspeed and wireless Internet access. Each one has its own personality. which often are the best restaurants in town. you have several different kinds of hotels and accommodations from which to choose. satellite TV. Chain hotels Holiday Inn. contemporary design. high-speed and wireless Internet access. and bathrobes. Expect to pay 175€ ($219) and up. Mercure. Le Meridien. a couple of phones. Most boutique hotels are too small to have a pool or health club but may have an arrangement with a nearby facility. classic Bauhaus style. For the . and international chains include Accor. Luxury hotels Public spaces in luxury hotels are sophisticated and elegant. Bathrooms are large and well equipped with magnifying mirrors. Amenities typically include brand-name toiletries. Radisson SAS. The Bleibtreu in Berlin (Chapter 11) is big on hip. Porters are available to take your luggage up to your room (tip 1€/$1. Boutique hotels Think of them as small luxury hotels. What you don’t get is a free breakfast. Best Western. European. in particular — have properties in this luxury category. Ringhotels. a minibar. usually with a sauna and pool. Kempinski. Rooms and bathrooms are not always large. tubs (often with whirlpools) and showers. but also look for special weekend rates on the hotels’ Web sites. and Steigenberger. Travel Charme. beginning with the most expensive. which you can find in every chapter’s hotel listings and in the appendix.84 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In Germany. Ramada — names you probably know — all have hotels in Germany.25 per bag). and bathrobes. Breakfast may or may not be included. Inter-Continental. and Treff Hotels. Charges for the (fabulous) breakfast buffet are anywhere from 17€ to 22€ ($21–$27). cable and satellite TV. the Hotel Excelsior Ernst in Cologne (Chapter 22) and the Hotel Adlon in Berlin (Chapter 22) are two of the most luxurious luxury hotels. Mövenpick. Your bed is turned down at night.

In these hotels. chain hotels offer brand-name familiarity and dependable service. You probably won’t find a telephone in your room or too many amenities. Properties like Hotel Jedermann in Munich (Chapter 15) or Hotel-Garni Brugger in Lindau (Chapter 17) offer basic. Guesthouses A guesthouse. other rooms have sinks but share bathrooms and showers in the hallway. . Amenities include a telephone. have just a few rooms. some with breakfast included. usually no more than three total. but your rate will include breakfast. cable TV. is basically an inn with a restaurant that serves breakfast. means that breakfast is the only meal the hotel serves. Rates are typically from 55€ to 110€ ($69–$137). lunch. and sometimes a minibar. depending on the time of year and the presence of trade shows or conventions. and the hotel often has an on-site pool or health club with sauna. called a Gasthaus (gahst-house) or a Gasthof (gahsthofe). The inn may also offer a special rate for dinner or lunch and dinner. which typically are given a two. enormous. expect to pay anywhere from 110€ to 175€ ($137–$219). you find a telephone and cable TV. Prices for a small to midsize independent hotel range from 85€ to 175€ ($106–$219). Tour packagers and convention planners often house their groups in chain hotels. Room service is available.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 85 most part. or in the country than in large cities. Rates at small and midsize properties always include a buffet breakfast.or three-star rating by the local tourist authority. a word sometimes attached to a hotel’s name. and dinner to hotel guests and outside patrons. The rooms themselves often are charming — what you’d typically expect in an old-world inn. Some rooms have small private bathrooms with showers or bathtubs. They also tend to be newish. in medium-sized cities. In general. Bathrooms are smaller and less glamorous than the ones in a luxury or boutique hotel property. The rooms are smaller and have a more standardized décor than rooms in luxury hotels. Prices vary greatly for chain hotels. Garni. Most guesthouses don’t have an elevator. You generally find different room categories. Smaller independent hotels Many small and medium-sized hotels in Germany are family owned and operated. You’re more likely to find guesthouses in small towns. and the upper floors. Shopping around on the Web may net you some big savings. and somewhat anonymous. The restaurant occupies the main or first floor. and many of the properties are older and located in the oldest and most picturesque quarters of the city. The Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg and Feriengasthof Helmer in Schwangau (see Chapter 16 for both) are examples of this kind of accommodations. comfortable rooms without much personality but at hard-to-beat prices. The ambience tends to be rustic and cozy.

86 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Pensions The Pension (pronounced pen-see-own in Germany) has long been the backbone of budget travel in Germany. You may luck out and find a place with a private bathroom. A pension is the same as a B&B (bed-and-breakfast): a room in a private home or apartment. you’ll probably pay more.) Reserving a room through the hotel’s toll-free number also may result in a lower rate than calling the hotel directly. On the other hand.) But . Hotels are happy to charge you the rack rate. Pension Niebuhr in Berlin (Chapter 11) is a good big-city pension. and in some cases. Perhaps the best way to avoid paying the rack rate is surprisingly simple: Just ask for a cheaper or discounted rate. or you may have to share the bathroom. with breakfast included in the price. and guesthouses. Prices aren’t negotiable at smaller hotels. the central reservations number may not know about discount rates at specific locations. Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. considered high season elsewhere in Europe. You may be pleasantly surprised. Amenities vary from place to place. but you can almost always do better. Room rates (even rack rates) change with the season. It’s the rate you get if you walk in off the street and ask for a room for the night. Breakfast always is included in the price. prices are higher in large cities. (That’s because the hotel often gives the agent a discount in exchange for steering his business toward that hotel. pensions. but you generally won’t have a phone. Some half a million beds are available in private homes across the country. and Dec). Sept. hotel rates usually go down in July and August. If you travel in the high season (Apr–June. (See Chapter 3 for more information on Germany’s different seasons. you can also use the kitchen. as occupancy rates rise and fall. the rate you pay for a room depends on many factors — chief among them being how you make your reservation. In all but the smallest accommodations. You sometimes see these rates printed on the fire/emergency-exit diagrams posted on the back of your door. often advertised with a simple sign: Zimmer frei (room available). A travel agent may be able to negotiate a better price with certain hotels than you can get by yourself. In smaller towns. so you may or may not have a TV. In Germany. Your best bet is to call both the local number and the toll-free number and see which one gives you a better deal. although some of these properties do offer special rates for longer stays. Keep in mind that many pensions operate on a cash-only basis. rooms start around 30€ ($37) per person per night.

Travelocity posts unvarnished customer reviews and ranks its properties according to the AAA rating system. In the meantime. These Internet hotel agencies have multiplied in mind-boggling numbers of late. TravelAxe (www. is partly owned by the hotels it represents (including the Hilton. and Starwood chains) and is therefore plugged directly into the hotels’ reservations systems — unlike independent online agencies that have to fax or e-mail reservation requests to the hotel. because prices can vary considerably from site to site. Also reliable are and Expedia soon will be able to plug directly into the reservations systems of many hotel chains. Of the “big three” sites. room prices are subject to change without For more tips about how to get the best room rate. Expedia offers a long list of special deals and virtual tours or photos of available rooms so you can see what you’re paying for. You never know when the affiliation may be worth a few euros off your room and Quikbook. getting a confirmation number and making a printout of any online booking transactions are good competing for the business of millions of consumers surfing for accommodations around the world. so the rates quoted in this book may be different from the actual rate you receive when you make your reservation. see the information about choosing a tour package in Chapter 6. including the taxes and service charges. This competitiveness can be a boon to consumers who have the patience and time to shop for and compare the online sites for good deals — but shop they must. frequent-flier programs. a good portion of which get misplaced in the shuffle. More than once. and any corporate rewards programs you can think of when you call to book.travelaxe. .Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 87 even within a given season. To be fair. many of the major sites are undergoing improvements in service and ease of use. Travelweb (www. Hyatt. Be sure to mention membership in AAA. And keep in mind that hotels at the top of a site’s listing may be there for no other reason than that they paid money to get the placement. travelers have arrived at the hotel only to be told that they have no reservation.travelweb. Another booking site. AARP. can help you search multiple hotel sites at once — even ones you may never have heard of — and conveniently lists the total price of the room. An excellent free program. Surfing the Web for hotel deals Shopping online for hotels generally is done one of two ways: by booking through the hotel’s own Web site or through an independent booking agency (or a fare-service agency like Priceline).

The following list includes sites that enable you to make online reservations at hotels throughout Germany: ߜ Hotel Discounts (www. and Hotwire. including Germany. Expedia. it features a fairly up-to-date list of hotels that Priceline uses in major cities. check prices and availability.hotelonline. Call its toll-free number (% 800-364-0801) if you want more options than the Web site lists online. and Orbitz) offer hotel booking. look at images of the rooms.landidyll. ߜ InnSite ( before bidding on a hotel room on Priceline.tripadvisor.88 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In addition to Travelocity. another good site if you can read German. You often find properties not listed with more general online travel ߜ www. Note: Some hotels don’t provide loyalty-program credits or points or other frequent-stay amenities when you book a room through opaque online services. it sometimes has rooms at hotels that are sold out. many hotels stick Priceline guests in their least desirable Web site ( Priceline is much better at getting five-star lodging for three-star prices than at finding anything at the bottom of the scale. you pay upfront. focuses on family hotels all across Germany that are managed according to ecological principles and have gastronomic flair. and then e-mail the innkeeper if you have provides B&B listings for inns in dozens of countries around the globe. Go to the BiddingForTravel. Some lodging sites specialize in a particular type of accommodations. such as B&Bs. Priceline.biddingfortravel. Although the major travel booking sites (Frommer’s. You can find a B&B in Berlin or the Black lists bargain rates at hotels throughout In the opaque Web site category. the following Web sites will help you with booking hotel rooms online: ߜ www. Priceline is even better for booking hotels than it is for booking flights. ߜ Landidyll (www.quickbook. Travelocity. On the downside. Because the site prebooks blocks of rooms. you may be better off using a site devoted primarily to is a site that you may want to use if you can read ߜ www. It features independent hotels throughout Germany and northern Europe that are a good value for your money. .innsite. For Priceline. which you won’t find on the more mainstream booking services. Expedia. you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel before offering up your money. ߜ Hotel Online (www. and the fee is ߜ www. Orbitz.

You can book almost 90 percent of these accommodations online. You can check for special discounted and weekend rates at many great German hotels. if it is.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 89 ߜ SRS-Worldhotels (www.travelweb. asking a few more pointed questions can go a long way toward making sure you get the best room in the house. they should be happy to accommodate you. and focuses on chains such as Hyatt and lists more than 16. bars. If they have another room. ߜ Always ask for a corner room. and they don’t always cost more. within reason.000 hotels worldwide. and have more windows and light than standard rooms. ߜ Inquire about the location of the restaurants. and discos in the hotel — all sources of annoying noise.srs-worldhotels. if you aren’t happy with your room when you arrive. including Germany. They’re usually larger. Finally. talk to the front desk. offer weekend deals at many leading chains. updated each Monday. ߜ Travelweb (www. Its Click-It Weekends. including first-class and resort hotels throughout Germany. Reserving the best room After you make your reservation. request a room away from the renovation has about 450 hotels worldwide. . ߜ Ask whether the hotel is renovating. quieter.

de or www. In this chapter. But family travel can be immensely rewarding. If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning. is a challenge — no doubt about it. The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. I offer advice and resources for all these travelers. giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes. from toddlers to teens. dragging them thousands of miles away to a country where a different language is spoken may seem like an insurmountable . Gays and lesbians may want to know about welcoming places and events. Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families Germany is a pretty kid-friendly country. but traveling anywhere with Kinder (kin-der.Chapter 9 Catering to Special Needs or Interests In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling with your kids ᮣ Discovering discounts and special tours for seniors ᮣ Locating wheelchair-accessible attractions ᮣ Finding lesbigay communities and special events ᮣ Tracing Germany’s Jewish history M any of today’s travelers have special interests or needs.cometogermany. Jewish visitors may want to visit Holocaust memorials and worship in a synagogue. Seniors may like to take advantage of discounts or tours designed especially for them. Parents may want to take their children along on trips.germany-tourism. People with disabilities need to ensure that sites on their itineraries are barrierfree. children). with its section on family travel is a good place to begin researching your trip.

Admission prices for attractions throughout Germany are reduced for children ages 6 to 14. TravelWithYourKids (www. If you’re traveling with children. you can keep costs down by eating at lowkey. The same is true for public transportation: Low-priced family or group tickets usually are available. in Germany you don’t see many families dining in expensive restaurants. local and children younger than 6 travel free. including Burger King and McDonald’s. see Chapter 10. and midsize German cities have American-style fast-food places. Ask questions before you reserve. and Family Travel Files (www. In fact. Locating family-friendly businesses Most German hotels happily accommodate your family if you reserve your rooms in advance and make the staff aware that you’re traveling with kids.familytravelforum. 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 91 You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Forum (www. and the staff can be less than welcoming to children who are not well Family Travel Network ( such as cramped rooms and shared toilet facilities. may present problems. an award-winning site that offers travel features. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. Look for the Kid Friendly icon as you flip through this book. youngsters. . which considerably reduces the admission price for a group of two adults and two or more children. You won’t. restaurants. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. For information on passport requirements for withyourkids. and attractions that are particularly family friendly. however. The menus aren’t geared to the tastes of U. find these food chains in smaller villages and towns. Zeroing in on these places can help you plan your trip more quickly and easily. On trains. high-toned restaurants in Germany are not particularly welcoming toward young children. or bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs). even when the place welcomes kids.S. these types of arrangements are common. Munich.thefamilytravelfiles. and tips. The establishment may bring in an extra cot or let you share a larger room. Expensive. Berlin. Smaller pensions. I use it to highlight hotels. In larger cities. children ages 6 to 11 pay half the adult fare. Kids younger than 6 almost always get in for free. Younger teens traveling in Berlin and Munich may want to check out the Hard Rock Cafe in those cities. which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families. always check to see whether the attraction offers a money-saving family ticket.

ask whether you’ll have access to an elevator or a Fahrstuhl (far-shtool). In the evening. kids can choose from a selection of cereals at most buffet breakfasts in hotels. a trip to a museum may try the patience of those children who can’t understand what they’re reading. When you reserve a hotel. Most of the hotels marked with a Kid Friendly icon in this book can help arrange baby-sitting. Therefore. sausage) is 100 percent meat with no filler. less-expensive pensions and guesthouses — have elevators. You can spur your kids’ interest (and your own) by buying a German language tape or checking one out from the library. even if the reduction isn’t posted. Being a senior may entitle you to some terrific travel bargains. The staircases in some places are a test for anyone with luggage. and familiarizing themselves with the sounds of the German language and learning at least a few words. you may find that some discounts are available only for German or EU (European Union) residents. When considering museums. bear in mind that most German museums do not translate their signage and texts into English. be aware that not all hotels — particularly smaller. the selection may not include as many presweetened varieties as in the United States. when you plan your trip. . For something more familiar. However.92 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany The best of the Wurst Your time in Germany may be a good opportunity to introduce your kids to some dishes that they’ve never tried. many of the top museums offer audio guides in English. What are your options? Ask your hotel staff whether they can recommend a local baby-sitting service. Note: In Germany. Always ask. Germany’s ever-present Wurst (voorst. everyone can spend an hour together. But you can’t take Junior along on this special evening. as they’re called in Germany. however. such as lower prices for German Rail Passes and reduced admission at museums and other attractions. Hiring a baby sitter in Germany What you really need is an exciting evening at the opera and a romantic late dinner with a glass of fine German wine. Carrying an ID with proof of age can pay off in all these situations. If not. listening to the tape. Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors Germany won’t present any problems for you if you’re a senior who gets around easily.

discerning including discounts on US Airways flights to Frankfurt and Munich from several U. ߜ Elderhostel (75 Federal offers people 55 and older a variety of university-based education programs in Berlin and throughout offers member discounts on car rentals and hotels. mostly of the tour-bus variety but also including river cruises along the Rhine and Mosel. INTRAV (% 800-456-8100.” and “The Rhine and Mosel River Valleys. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits.S. tips. Boston. hassle-free ways to learn while traveling. www.gct. restricted to travelers 50 and www. www. ElderTreks (% 800741-7956.elderhostel. MA 02210. % 866-687-2277.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 93 The sources in the following list can provide information about discounts and other benefits for seniors: ߜ AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons. not specifically seniors. 101 Tips for Mature Travelers. major tour operators offering trips to Germany. Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon). MA 02110-1941. DC is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature. NW. accommodations. and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers. www. tuition.intrav.eldertreks. These courses are value-packed. % 800221-2610 or 617-350-7500. The price includes airfare. private-jet adventures. 601 E St. and insurance. % 877-4268056. by Joann Rattner Heilman. available from Grand Circle Travel (% 800-221-2610 or offers small-group tours to off-thebeaten-path or adventure-travel locations.” ߜ Grand Circle Travel (347 Congress St. meals. And you’ll be glad to know that you won’t be graded.gct. cities and discounts on escorted tours from Globus and Cosmos. Boston. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus polar expeditions. Popular Germany offerings in 2006 included “Heartland of Classical Music. www. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www. with trips around the world that include guided safaris.” “Treasures of the Elbe River Valley. www. Washington. . and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill). With a annual membership of around $13 (anyone 50 or older can join).com) offers package deals for the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (% 877-426-8056) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries around the world. travel50andbeyond..

. with its section on travel for the disabled. ߜ The American Foundation for the Blind (% 800-232-5463.germany-tourism. Locating resources The German National Tourist Office’s Web site ( offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations. is a good place to begin researching your provides general information on accessible travel. % 212447-7284. and companion services. specialized accommodations. travel insurance. A disability needn’t stop anybody from traveling. 12 City Forum.” containing information on trip planning.radar. fax: 020/7250-0212. ߜ AirAmbulanceCard. In fact.emerginghorizons. and transportation abroad. travel agents. fax: 212-725-8253.. www. because more options and resources are available than ever publishes A World of Options. vehicle provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye afb. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www. % 020/7250-3222. the community Web site iCan ( org. tour operators.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel/index. and a newsletter. access guides. www. Survival Strategies for Going Abroad. published by SATH. a 658-page book of resources that covers everything from biking trips to scuba outfitters. which publishes vacation “fact packs. Germany is one of the more advanced countries in Europe when it comes to accessibility for disabled travelers.cometogermany. www. 250 City Rd. ߜ The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH.icanonline. de or is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.94 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities The German word for disabled is behindert (bee-hin-dert).com) and Open World Magazine. Over the Rainbow. ߜ Mobility International USA (% 541-343-1284. London EC1V 8AF. For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities. www.sath. British travelers with disabilities may want to contact RADAR (Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation. Here are some other helpful resources in the United States: ߜ The Moss Rehab Hospital (www.

pronounced roll-shtool) presents unique challenges. national Tourism Coordination Agency for All People. Munich. fax: 0211/33-68-760.seunlimitedtravel. or they may not be wide . Tour operators with trips to Germany include ߜ Accessible Journeys (% 800-846-4537 or 610-521-0339. Most of the older and less expensive pensions and guesthouses don’t have elevators. more modern hotels). under “Reiseinfos” (Travel Information). Germany offers both has information on the accessibility of public buildings throughout Germany. The international airports in Munich and Frankfurt are wheelchair accessible. However. you can find special offers and a list of German tour operators offering special tours and travel opportunities. or 605-366-0202. fax: 605-334-0000. Several organizations offer tours designed to meet the needs of travelers with disabilities. bahn. you may want to use one of these resources: ߜ Nationale Koordinationsstelle Tourismus für Alle ( ߜ S E Unlimited Travel (% 800-552-9798 in the U. For many wheelchair-bound travelers. ߜ The Web site You-Too (www. Not all U-Bahn (subway) stations have wheelchair access. 40215 Düsseldorf. is the central organization in the country for all inquiries concerning barrier-free travel. But others want the adventures of being on their own. On the Web site. You can also find information (in English) for disabled travelers on its Web site. and the rest of Germany (more in the western part than the east) have rooms for the disabled (these tend to be in larger. Kirchfeldstrasse 149. Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) offers transportation service for the disabled. public buses are generally wheelchair accessible.S. www. an escorted tour is a Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair) Traveling in a wheelchair (called a Rollstuhl.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 95 If you can read German. Thanks to its comprehensive accessibility. including free seating reservations for travelers in wheelchairs. in larger cities. and accessible and Canada. disabilitytravel. Some 385 train stations throughout the country have lifting aids or mobile (click on “Mobilität&Service” and “Handicap”). Many hotels in Berlin. accessible accommodations. natko. www. % 0211/33-68-001. You can reserve your seat in advance and get information about traveling with a disability by calling the special Deutsche Bahn number for disabled travelers at % 01805/512-512. www.

call first). bars. Most of the top sights in the country are wheelchair accessible. gay culture. and stages its famous Loveparade in mid-July. historical areas. A network of gay or gay-friendly restaurants. Munich. cafes. looking at vineyards and castles. all that matters is that two (or more) individuals travel together. Frankfurt. Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians Germany is one of the most “developed” countries in the world when it comes to gay If you are schwul (shwool. you’ll find plenty to do in Deutschland. With most family. Lesbigay travelers may want to time their visits to coincide with these big festivals: ߜ Berlin holds its annual Gay & Lesbian Street Festival in mid-June. most restaurants are happy to accommodate people with disabilities. parades and special events celebrate gay pride. Gay and lesbian couples (or friends) qualify for family tickets on public transportation in many Germany cities. although calling ahead to make arrangements and getting directions to special entrances and/or elevators always is a good idea. and gay tourism. you have to deal with cobblestones. or Gruppen (group) tickets. stores. gay) or lesbisch (lez-bish. but gay life flourishes outside the big cities. Berlin. ߜ Munich celebrates Christopher Street Day in mid-July. Larger theaters and performing-arts venues are often wheelchair accessible. Celebrating gay pride in Germany Every summer. Ask about this issue before you reserve. dance clubs. Also keep in mind that in older. or use one of the travel agencies that specializes in travel for people with disabilities (see “Locating resources. . in small towns and large.” earlier in this section). and Cologne all have large gay communities. Although not all restaurants provide wheelchair ramps. celebrates its Christopher Street Day and Parade around the third weekend in June. Hamburg. lesbian). Find information on the Web at www. too (again. the Köln-Düsseldorfer (KD) line has wheelchair-accessible boats (see Chapter 19 for more about KD and Rhine journeys).96 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany enough for a wheelchair. If you’re interested in gliding down the Rhine and Mosel rivers. and community centers exists throughout the country.

Germany seems to fall below the radar screen of most gay tour operators (too bad. leading up to and during World War II. For information on the nearest IGLTA travel agent and gay-friendly resources in Germany. Stadt means “city. this site enables you to access a lesbigay guide for each city you want to visit.cometogermany.stadt. The following are just a few of the other Web sites you may want to check out as you begin to plan your trip to Germany: ߜ PinkPassport (www. ߜ Hamburg celebrates with a Gay Pride Parade and Festival around June 8 to 10. That may explain why German gays and lesbians today are so politically active and determined not to tolerate discrimination.germany-tourism. Unfortunately. ߜ www. Researching German lesbigay life on the Web The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. You can select a city in Germany and find out pertinent travel-related information. because Berlin is such a great destination for gay tours).gay-web.”) .org).pinkpassport. ߜ Cologne’s Christopher Street Weekend usually is the first weekend in June. you can use a gay travel service. (By the way. untold thousands of homosexuals were arrested and sent to their deaths in labor camps. de or One of the best all-purpose gay sites — albeit the Web site is in German — for lesbigay travelers planning a trip to Germany.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 97 Pride and politics Perhaps some of the openness of gay life in Germany today has to do with the murderous antihomosexual policies of the Nazis. ߜ Frankfurt’s Christopher Street Weekend takes place around the third weekend in July. Between 1933 and This site is a destination service provider for international gay travelers. Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators If you want to keep your hard-earned travel money pink. is a good place to begin researching your trip. with its section on gay and lesbian contact IGLTA (% 800-448-8550. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) maintains a worldwide network of gay and lesbian travelagent professionals who can help you plan your trip.iglta. www.

gaykoeln.germany-tourism. . Special and very emotional issues confront Jewish visitors to Germany. contact the German National Tourist Office (www. synagogues have been restored.munich. and one of the few that’s actually and request a copy of Germany for the Jewish Traveler. www. the largest in Europe.000. Another is the Holocaust memorial. The Germany you visit today is a democratic federal republic sensitive to the past. and memorials completed in Berlin in 2005 between the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz. Germany’s Jewish population is the third-largest in Western One of the most remarkable is the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) in Berlin (Chapter 12). Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany In this guidebook. and www. Try the following Web sites for information on specific cities: www. Throughout the country. near or www. and Buchenwald (Chapter 14). Today. Throughout the centuries. For assistance in planning your itinerary.cometogermany. Jews from all levels of society contributed to German www. seizure of property and The most moving memorials are at Dachau (Chapter 15). I can’t even begin to scratch the surface of this huge and sensitive issue. and extermination policies created horrors that are almost beyond Several places are dedicated to remembering the Jewish experience in this country.98 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ Specific city Web or www. numbering around 70. Jewish life in Germany dates back hundreds of years. when systematic persecution. near Weimar. Large Jewish communities flourished in cities throughout Germany until the Nazi era. in large part because many Jewish people from the former Soviet Union are choosing to live in Germany. This free booklet presents an overview of Jewish history and lists recommended places to visit and what to see.frankfurt.

follow these steps: 1. To find your regional passport office. Australia. State Department at http://travel.S. Applying for a U. you must have a valid passport to enter Germany. or Canada. either check the U. You can’t cross an international border without one.S. http://travel. passport If you’re applying for a first-time passport. or call the National Passport Information Center (% 877-487-2778) for automated information. Complete a passport application in person at a U. . a federal. go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U.state.html. or a major post office.S. D Getting a Passport A valid passport is the only legal form of identification accepted around the world. state. passport passport.S. but the process takes some time.Chapter 10 Taking Care of the Remaining Details In This Chapter ᮣ Obtaining a passport ᮣ Taking care of your health: Travel and medical insurance ᮣ Communicating via cellphone and e-mail ᮣ Dealing with airline security measures o you have an up-to-date passport? Have you taken steps to meet your health needs while on your trip? Are you wondering how to use a cellphone or access e-mail while in Germany? This chapter gives you the information you need. State Department passport Web site. Getting a passport is easy.state. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world. or probate If you’re a citizen of the United States.

state or military ID. and paying the appropriate fees. Forms can be completed and printed online at the Web site. State Department passport Web site (http://travel.S. or Social Security card also is a good 3. New Zealand. a passport is valid for ten years and costs $97. but it can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). call the National Passport Agency (% 202-647-0518). Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade. American Passport Express (% 800-455-5166. Pay the fee. Canada. or log on to www. ߜ Canadians can pick up applications at passport offices throughout Canada.100 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany 2. com) is a service that can expedite the processing of your first-time passport application. and from the central Passport Office. Ontario K1A 0G3 (% 800-567-6868. the digital photographs must have a continuous-tone image that looks very photolike. for details on how and where to apply. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport. Ottawa. Bringing along your driver’s license. In addition.passports. Whether you’re applying in person or by mail. you can receive your passport in as little as 24 hours. You can also . Applying for other passports The following list offers more information for citizens of Australia. If you have a passport in your current name that was issued within the past 15 years and you were older than 16 when it was issued. www. processing normally takes three weeks. You often find businesses that take these photos near a passport office. Using this service. you can download passport applications from the U. at post offices. but they must meet the same requirements for all passport photographs. For general information. call the Australia State Passport Office (% 131-232 toll-free from Australia). and the United Kingdom: ߜ Australians can visit a local post office or passport office. Note: You can’t use a strip from a photo-vending machine because the pictures aren’t identical. you can renew the passport by mail for $ Submit two identical passport-size photos. grainy-looking photos composed of visible dots are not acceptable. but applications must be submitted in person. For those 15 and younger.americanpassport. Present a certified birth certificate as proof of citizenship. measuring 2 inches by 2 inches in size. For people 16 and older.ppt. a passport is valid for five years and costs $82. You may submit digital photos that have been printed on your printer at home.state.

(Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears. www. or about three weeks by mail.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 101 download an application form from the Passport Office Web site. The cost of travel insurance varies widely. that the tour company is a reputable Here is my advice on all three: ߜ Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip. Some experts suggest you avoid buying insurance from . ߜ United Kingdom residents. as many travelers discovered who tried to cancel their trips in October 2001 because they were wary of flying. For information. contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (% 0870-521-0410. such as Germany. and the type of trip you’re taking. consumers can get their money back on goods and services not received if they report the loss within 60 days after the charge is listed on their credit-card statement. not a passport. though. Protect yourself further by paying for the insurance with a credit card — by Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance Three kinds of travel insurance are available: trip-cancellation insurance. carrying the document with you is a good idea. or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. or log on to www. medical insurance. but expect to pay between 5 percent and 8 percent of the vacation itself. For more information. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. Applications must be accompanied by two identical passport-size photographs and proof of Canadian citizenship.ukpa. as a member of the European Union. However. if you have to go home early. govt. if you already have a passport. Note: Many tour operators include insurance in the cost of the trip or can arrange insurance policies through a partnering provider. to travel to other EU Make sure. and lost-luggage insurance. your age and health. a convenient and often cost-effective way for the traveler to obtain insurance. depending on the cost and length of your trip.” a list of companies considered high-risk by Travel Guard International ( however. Processing takes five to ten days if you apply in person. need only an identity card. contact the Passports Office at % 0800225-050 in New Zealand or 04-474-8100. ߜ New Zealanders can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the Passports Office Web site.passports.) A good resource is “Travel Guard insured.

500 per ticketed portions of international trips). you must report delayed. Worldwide Assistance Services (% 800-777-8710. immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability.102 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the tour or cruise company you’re traveling with. damaged. baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9. www. www. you may want to buy travel medical insurance. If your luggage is lost.travelassistance. for general information on TAI’s services. travelinsured. or buy the BagTrak product from Travel Guard (% 800-826-4919. Travel Insured International (% 800-243-3174. Don’t buy insurance at the airport. For most airlines. Travel Guard International (% 800-826-4919.worldwide assistance. contact TAI’s service provider.S. contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (% 866-807-3982. Even if your plan covers overseas treatment. up to approximately $635 per checked bag. or lost baggage within four hours of arrival. and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront before reimbursing you only after you return saying it’s better to buy from a third-party insurer than to put all your money in one place. because many valuables (including per pound. most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage. because it’s usually overpriced. If you require additional medical insurance. find out whether your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy. directly to your house or destination free of charge. www. The airlines are required to deliver luggage. ߜ Lost-luggage insurance is not necessary for most travelers. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage. most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront and send you a refund only after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance company. and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. On domestic flights. www. or Travelex Insurance Services (% 888457-4602. money. On international flights (including As a safety net. www. detailing the luggage contents. For more information. For travel overseas. www. get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travelinsurance package. checked baggage is covered for up to $2.travelguard. www. once found. guard. try MEDEX Assistance (% or Travel Assistance International (TAI) (% 800-821-2828. com).travelex-insurance.

see the previous section. iamat. www. sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine If you have an emergency and need a prescription filled after-hours or on weekends. Pharmacies are open regular shopping hours. cdc. diabetes. wear a MedicAlert identification tag (% 888-633-4298. you can call the Ärtzlicher Notdienst (Medical Emergency Service) listed in the telephone directory. (Remember: Current airline security regulations do not allow you to carry on liquids in containers larger than 3 ounces. ask the concierge or hotelkeeper to recommend a local doctor. . most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. is the German word for a medical doctor. dial % 112 (a free call anywhere in Germany). if you need to carry medications with you onboard. In a life-threatening situation. (Arzt. last time I for tips about travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and lists of local English-speaking doctors. The U. www. the number for general emergencies. com. in Canada. pronounced artst. 416-652-0137. talk to your doctor before leaving on a trip.) At night and on weekends. so I strongly advise against it (of course. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (% 800-311-3435. the bugs weren’t listening to me any more than they probably listen to you). medicalert. The Web site provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. and prescriptions for more (in generic. not brand-name. you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.) A pharmacy in Germany is called an Apotheke (pronounced ah-po-tay-kuh). Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (% 716-754-4883 or. go to any pharmacy. For domestic trips.tripprep. www. which immediately alerts doctors to your condition and gives them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. Bring all your medications with you. For conditions such as epilepsy. or heart problems. A notice will be posted in the window providing the address and telephone number of the closest on-duty pharmacy. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www. form) if you worry that you’ll run out. If you fall ill while traveling. The word for hospital is Krankenhaus (pronounced kronk-in-house).S.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 103 Staying Healthy When You Travel Getting sick will ruin your vacation. For information on purchasing additional medical insurance for your trip.istm. For travel abroad. may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. and they take turns staying open all night and on weekends. make sure the box or container has the pharmacy’s label with your name on it. If you have a serious and/or chronic illness.

although possible.) You’ll get a local phone number — and much. the staff will be able to direct you to the nearest cybercafe. phone won’t work in Germany without a special chip. However. Motorola. If your cellphone is on a GSM system. a big. or Samsung models are so equipped — you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe. The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles). and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. you can purchase a prepaid German SIM card with call credit already incorporated and easily add more talk time to the SIM card if needed. If you’re accustomed to using a cellphone.S. Unfortunately. I provide general information on using cellphones and sending or receiving e-mail in Germany. I’ve found. so you need to check with your carrier. renting a phone is a good idea. in Canada.50 in western Europe. (Show your phone to the salesperson. keep in mind that your U. not all phones work on all networks. That’s why it’s important to buy an “unlocked” world phone from the get-go. Using a cellphone outside the U. If you have an unlocked phone. In this section.S. just call your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to use the phone with a local provider. Although you can rent a phone from any number of German sites. and you have a world-capable multiband phone — many Sony Ericsson. Many cellphone operators sell “locked” phones that restrict you from using any removable computer memory phone chip (called a SIM card) other than the ones they supply. Having an unlocked phone enables you to install a cheap.S. is to use a prepaid phone card and the hotel phone. Collecting e-mail is fairly easy in Germany: If you can’t do it at your hotel.104 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail The cheapest and easiest way to call home from Germany. per-minute charges can be high — usually $1 to $1. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. only a limited number of carriers use GSM. you either need to have a friend or relative in Germany purchase the card for you or buy one in North America before your departure. from Andorra to Uganda. if you want to purchase a German SIM card in Germany. In the U. and renting a phone in Germany. you’ll be asked for proof of residency. prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in Germany. much lower calling rates. but it can be done. Getting an already-locked phone unlocked can be a complicated process. costs a lot. Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. For many. including kiosks at airports . seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. For that reason.

Finding a city in Germany that doesn’t have a few cybercafes is hard to do.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 105 and at car-rental agencies. but others charge high rates to go online. Some business centers in large luxury hotels are free for guests. Of course. Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. Aside from formal cybercafes.intouchglobal. you still can access your e-mail and even your office computer from cybercafes. which you’ll also see in shopping malls. using your own laptop — or even a personal digital assistant (PDA) or electronic organizer with a modem — gives you the most flexibility. make sure the phone works. The bottom line: Shop around. most youth hostels nowadays have at least one computer with Internet access. and 4 and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need. local rental companies often offer free incoming calls within their home countries. which can save you big bucks. Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (% 800-872-7626.m.cybercafe.roadpost. That way you can give loved ones and business associates your new number. In Germany. a mobile phone is called a Handy (pronounced as it’s spelled). hotel lobbies. plus airtime fees of at least a dollar a minute. and RoadPost (% 888-290-1606 or 905-2725665. simply call % 703222-7161 between 9 a. give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. Give them your itinerary.htm. If you’re traveling to Europe.m. where local phone-rental agencies often bill in local currency and may not let you take the phone to another country. independent businesses — two places to start looking are at www. I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. EST. The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price mean they need to be avoided whenever possible. or go to http://intouch global. and www. . and tourist information offices around the Although no definitive directory exists for cybercafes — they are. Accessing the Internet away from home You have any number of ways to check your e-mail and access the Internet on the road. Phone rental isn’t cheap. But even if you don’t have a computer. These kiosks. InTouch also will advise you for free on whether your existing phone will work overseas. though. And most public libraries around the world offer Internet access free or for a small charge.cybercaptive. after all. You’ll usually pay $40 to $50 per week. and take the phone wherever you go — especially helpful for overseas trips through several countries. . For more flexibility. and Japan).K.personaltelco. and per-minute plans. and retailers are signing on as wireless hotspots where you can get highspeed connection without cable wires. through a plan offered by one of several commercial companies that have made wireless service available in airports. per-connection. you can use the free mail2web service (www. use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe computer to access the GoToMyPC system. Boingo (www. You sign up for wireless access service much as you do cellphone service. (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option. Going Wireless If you’re bringing your own computer. primarily in the U. prices are likely to get even more competitive. The service offers top-quality security. Some places also provide free wireless networks in cities around the world. look into a service called GoToMyPC (www. but in general you pay around $30 a month for limited access — and as more and more companies jump on the wireless bandwagon. networking hardware. T-Mobile Hotspot (http://hotspot. Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail. (followed by the U.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account serves up wireless connections at more than 1.106 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany To retrieve your e-mail. with a variety of monthly. If you have an older to view and reply to your home e-mail. or a phone line. The companies’ pricing policies can be byzantine. and coffee shops.boingo.wayport. you don’t need to be staying at the Four Seasons to use the hotel’s and Wayport (www. Mac owners have their own networking technology called Apple AirPort. you can plug an 802. iPass (www. ask your Internet service provider (ISP) whether it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account. but Hotmail has severe spam problems. Best of all. the current buzzword in computer access is WiFi (wireless fidelity).11b/WiFi card (around $50) into your laptop. Many laptops sold during the last year have built-in WiFi capability (an 802. If you need to access files on your office computer.gotomypc. If your ISP doesn’t have such an interface. The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere — even a cybercafe — provided your target PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). just set yourself up on a nice couch in the lobby. com) providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups.cgi/WirelessCommunities. go to www.11b wireless Ethernet connection).S.000 Starbucks coffee shops have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. hotel lobbies. and more and more index.ipass. but if you’re worried about you may want to open a free.t-mobile. To locate these free hotspots.

Generally. and printing out your boarding pass — and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so.) The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U. If you’re traveling outside the reach of your ISP.ipass.S. Keeping Up with Airline Security With the federalization of airport security. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat. and many hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable. which then tells you how to set up your computer for your destination. And E-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. security procedures at U. tell an airline employee and she’ll probably whisk you to the front of the line. a spare phone cord. www. online check-in is available for domestic flights only. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in. For a list of iPass providers. most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems. (At present. but they do for international flights to most countries. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider. Call your hotel in advance to see what your options the security checkpoint. you will need to show your passport at check-in).” One solid provider is i2roam (% 866-811-6209 or 920-235-0475. bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. if you show up late. bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters. and you’ll be required to show your passport at that time.S. the iPass network has dial-up numbers in most of the world’s countries. you’ll be . (Children younger than 18 do not need government-issued photo IDs for domestic flights. enabling you to go online by simply placing a local call. you can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from your home computer. and sometimes even the gate. and a spare Ethernet network cable — or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. major ISPs have local access numbers around the world. Bring a current. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. you’ll be fine as long as you arrive at the airport one hour before a domestic flight and two hours before an international flight. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. accessing your reservation.i2roam. airports. Wherever you go.) If you’re using a kiosk at the airport. and how much it will and click on “Individual Purchase. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline’s Web site. if you’re flying on to Germany you’ll have to use the “oldfashioned” airport check-in at the airline’s ticket counter. If you have an E-ticket. In addition.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 107 If WiFi isn’t available. go to www. government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport (for international flights. Check your ISP’s Web site or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home.

com). Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system.S. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time. but some doozies remain. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag. for some reason) for bombs. The general rule is that sharp things are out.brookstone. as long as it has a laptop in it.108 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany able to do so using most airline kiosks. Travelers in the U.travelsentry. it’s still considered a personal item. For more information on the locks.tsa.jsp) for details. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security. except for folks escorting disabled passengers or children. Bring food in your carryon instead of checking it. If you’ve got metallic body parts. and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine — but security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee cup. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks. check its Web site (www. plus a personal item. . your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage. but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available. Security-checkpoint lines are getting shorter. are allowed one carry-on bag. Look for Travel Sentry–certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. or laptop bag. a few airlines still ban curbside check-in. nail clippers are okay. such as a purse. These locks are approved by the TSA and can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. tell an airline employee. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items. visit www. Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. public/index. call before you go. You can now purchase luggage locks that enable screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary. a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. the airline will provide a wheelchair. Curbside check-in also is a good way to avoid lines. Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. because explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate.

Part III Northern and Eastern Germany .

Chapter 11 fills you in on all the Berlin basics: getting there. historic panache. full of proud reminders of its seafaring past. with its superb museums. . or Bremen. city of Goethe and one of Germany’s cultural jewels. the country’s “new” capital. and nowhere more so than in Berlin. and finding the best hotels and restaurants. is the focus of Chapter 13. In Chapter 14. getting around. istory has left its mark throughout northern and eastern Germany. bordering the Baltic and the North Sea. I tell you all about Hamburg. a busy business city where the “peaceful revolution” began. Leipzig. I devote Chapter 12 to exploring the largest and most exciting city in Germany. All three of these cities were members of the powerful Hanseatic League that ruled the seas and dominated trade in northern Europe for hundreds of years. From Hamburg you can make an easy side trip to beautiful Lübeck. In Chapter 14. and location on the Elbe River. and Weimar. the region’s largest city and greatest port. I devote two chapters to Berlin.H In this part . Northern Germany. Since reunification in 1990. eastern Germany has been in the midst of a major building and rebuilding boom. with so many historic buildings that UNESCO recognizes the city as a World Heritage Site. . I also tell you about visiting the Thuringian Forest and taking a boat trip into the scenic region known as Saxon Switzerland. . I introduce you to the best places to visit in this newly opened region: Dresden.

for my money. British. train. the most exciting city in Europe. In many ways it’s a new city — and yet. you see a city in transition.. When you’re in Berlin. Later. Berlin has a kind of inexhaustible energy. You can dive into Berlin on many levels. both triumph and tragedy. and Nazi terror — and survived to tell the tale. have always been a breed apart. part of the reason why a visit here is so intriguing. artistic brilliance. Berlin was split in two. and future meet and meld all over the place. cultured. much of Berlin was reduced to smoldering rubble. with the wall down and Deutschland reunited. perhaps because they’ve been through so much. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. Your experiences can be as sophisticated. physically and politically. and for almost 30 years. and I would urge anyone visiting Germany to spend at least a couple of days here. endless political upheaval. gives the city an added bite.S. even as the city reinvents itself yet again.” B . laced with sharp-edged humor and sarcastic irreverence. This city has seen it all — Prussian power. The wall went up in 1961. Berlin once again is the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany. Their cosmopolitan live-and-let-live attitude. food and supplies had to be flown in because the Soviets blockaded the city. But. Berliners. a fizz and a flair and a drive that you find nowhere else in Germany. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. and Russian sectors. The city then was divided into U. Now. even if you don’t speak German. or raunchy as you want them to be.Chapter 11 Settling Into Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Berlin ᮣ Traveling from the airport into the city ᮣ Orienting yourself to the neighborhoods ᮣ Getting around by subway. You feel a sense of immediacy in Berlin because everything is happening at once — past. present. By the end of World War II (WWII).” That old song lyric meaning “Berlin always remains Berlin” still holds true. and bus ᮣ Choosing your hotel ᮣ Picking a good restaurant ᮣ Finding a cafe or brewpub erlin is. during the Berlin Airlift of 1948.

To get into central Berlin from Tegel.) where you can pick up free city-transit maps and general-interest brochures and buy a bus ticket into town. The facility recently was revamped to make it more passenger-friendly.10€ ($2. By plane Continental and Delta are the only U. Friedrichstrasse. Inside the terminal. use euro coins (no bills) to buy your ticket from the driver.m. train.112 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Getting There You can arrive in Germany’s capital and largest city by plane. airlines to offer direct flights to Berlin from within the United States (Continental flies from Newark to Berlin Tegel. open daily 7:30 a. At the train station. (For information on public transportation.m. you can connect to the U-Bahn or the S-Bahn (elevated train). Berlin has two airports. the central train station in the western part of the city near Kurfürstendamm. connects to the Jakob-Kaiser-Platz U-Bahn (underground train) station. tickets for each of them cost 2. another express bus. depending on what airline you use. is on the outskirts of central Berlin in Reinickedorf. the regular two-zone A/B fare. Another bus that goes to Zoo Station is Bus 109. both with easy public-transportation connections to the city at standard public fares. On all other flights from the United States. which travels down Kurfürstendamm and takes about 30 minutes. ߜ A taxi ride to central Berlin (east or west) costs 16€ to 20€ ($20– $25) and takes about 20 minutes. you find currency-exchange windows and a small branch of the tourist information center (no phone. .de). From there you can change to the subway and reach any destination. Berlin’s main and most convenient airport. Berlin’s main tourist information center is at the nearby Europa Center (see “Finding Information After You Arrive” later in this chapter). On the bus. see “Getting Around Berlin. and Unter den Linden in Mitte.–7 Four buses run from the airport into central Berlin. you have to change planes in Frankfurt or another European city. you can take a bus or taxi. Delta flies from New York JFK to Berlin Tegel). Buses arrive outside the airport terminal. or car. Arriving at Berlin International Airport in Tegel Tegel (TXL) airport (% 0180/5000-186.” later in this chapter. www. the “new” center of Berlin. ߜ Bus X9.50).S.) ߜ TXL Express Bus runs about every ten minutes between the airport and Potsdamer Platz. The X9 takes about 20 minutes to reach Zoo Station. where you also find the taxi stand. The X9 also goes to the Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station).

is the old East Berlin airport. or you can take Bus 171. a shuttle service that runs from the airport to the S-Bahn station and the Rudow U-Bahn station. The Hauptbahnhof and all of Berlin’s smaller railway stations (for regional service) are connected to public buses. Taxis wait outside the terminal.50). or S-Bahn fare is 2. The airport also was the base for the Berlin Airlift in 1948. Tegel also will close. and Bahnhof Zoo (about a 30minute journey) in the western center of Berlin. eastern sector. an S-Bahn that leaves the Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld station about every 20 minutes for central Berlin.10€ ($2.S. the U. Arriving at Berlin-Schönefeld Schönefeld (SXF) (% 01805/000-186. subways (U-Bahn). call the Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). By train You can reach Berlin by train from everywhere in Europe. Until 2006. U-Bahn. Europa Platz 1 (% 0800-1507090 for train schedules. As part of a new plan for Berlin airports. served travelers to the city’s Communist.S. When the project is completed. when U. A taxi ride to the Alexanderplatz area in Mitte takes about 45 to 60 minutes and costs about 50€ ($62). The easiest way to get into town from this airport is by Airport Express. www. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). now mostly used for low-cost airlines and European charter flights. in 2011. For 24-hour train information. when this spectacular new travel hub opened. During the Cold War.hbf-berlin. www. Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof All long-distance high-speed trains now arrive at and depart from the Hauptbahnhof. stopping at Alexanderplatz and Fredrichstrasse in Berlin Mitte (eastern Berlin). All air traffic will then be consolidated into a single hub called Berlin Brandenburg International Airport.-built Tegel airport served West Berlin. you can take the U7 subway to Bahnhof Zoo in about 50 minutes.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 113 A tale of three airports Tempelhof. Tempelhof was closed in October 2004 and a massive $4-billion expansion of Schönefeld airport now is underway. located about 24km (15 miles) southeast of the city. while another airport. All longdistance trains now arrive and depart from the spectacular new Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Bus. From the U-Bahn station. was Berlin’s main airport during the Third and other Allied forces brought food and supplies to the city during the Soviet Schö reunified Berlin was . The S-Bahn station is a ten-minute walk from the airport terminal. Europe’s newest and largest train station. built in the 1920s.

The station has two travel centers.m. getting to your hotel from the Hauptbahnhof couldn’t be easier.m. Hardenbergplatz 11. depending on traffic. and tickets to all of Berlin’s opera houses.000 travelers every day with a minimum of confusion. for general driving tips in the city. getting around by public transportation is far easier than by car. concert venues. Unless you arrive by a local. to 9 p. regional train.m. buy the Berlin Welcome Card (described under “Getting Around Berlin. maps and Berlin-related books.75). you’ll want to keep the car parked at your hotel or in a garage.m. Berlin has one central station. Whether you’re staying in western or eastern Berlin. the name given to Berlin’s tourist information centers. Now. elevators (the entire station is barrier-free) or escalators carry you up to the first and second floors. user-friendly terminal. After you’re in Berlin. Here you can use the hotel booking service (3€/$3. Unless you know this huge city well. where you find dozens of shops and food options. and elevated trains (S-Bahn).–10 p. where you can purchase train tickets and make seat reservations (both centers open daily 6 a. to 10 p.m. you’ll be pulling into this remarkable. The fate of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Usually called Bahnhof Zoo (Zoo Station. it’s now used only for regional trains but remains a busy hub for local U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains.” later in this chapter). this was the main western train station until the Hauptbahnhof opened in 2006.114 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany served by several smaller stations. On the main floor at the north end of the station there’s a BERLIN infostore (open daily 8 a. . % 01805/996-633). the train travel office Reisezentrum Bahnhof Zoo (% 030/19419) is open daily from 7 a.m.” later in this chapter.).).m. In fact.–10 p. the pavilion is open daily from 6 a. and theaters (half-price tickets are sold for performances that day). a car is a nuisance. Located close to Kurfürstendamm. By car Four Autobahn (freeway) routes enter Berlin from western Germany. underground trains (U-Bahn). to handle train tickets and information. you can pick up a free public-transportation map and buy tickets and special passes for buses. It’s an enormous place but it’s been designed to facilitate up to 300. the main artery in western Berlin. Inside the station. The entrance to the S-Bahn (marked by a green S) is on the second floor of the station. however. Trains arrive and depart on the lowest level (track numbers easily identified). three enter from the east. See “Driving a car. the entrance to the U-Bahn (marked by a U) is on the first floor. At the BVG-Pavilion outside the station. for the first time in its history.m. the SchauLUST Museum Pass (see Chapter 12). The drive from Frankfurt or Munich takes about eight hours.

and in the Berlin Pavilion at the Reichstag. to 6 p.m. the first and simplest way to understand Berlin is still to think in terms of the old political boundaries of West and East.–6 p. you find infostore branches in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden).m.m.) Introducing western Berlin From 1961 to 1989.m. to 6 p.m. For first-time visitors. West Berlin was richer. and wilder than its drab eastern counterpart. Berlin has five walk-in infostores: ߜ The main office in western Berlin is in the newly revamped shopping “passage” called Neues Kranzler Eck.m.m.m. ߜ Another infostore is located under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at Alexanderplatz. to 6 p.).m. to 7 p. Even though the wall has been down since 1989. The city’s main attractions now are spread almost evenly across the whole city. The office is open Monday to Saturday 10 a. to 8 p..Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 115 Finding Information After You Arrive At a BERLIN infostore. or Bahnhof Zoo for short. or the Ku-Damm for short. near the Ku-Damm.m. The infostores operate one information line (% 030/25-00-25).m. Berlin is one of the world’s largest cities. Orienting Yourself in Berlin Covering some 60 square miles. getting a handle on this sprawling. complex metropolis can be difficult. bus and subway tickets. close to Bahnhof Zoo (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). and Sunday from 10 a.m. (See the “Berlin Neighborhoods” map in this chapter..m. the SchauLUST museum pass (Chapter 12). West Berlin’s glitziest artery was — and remains — the 4km-long (21⁄2mile) boulevard known as Kurfürstendamm. you can find information or book a hotel room (for a fee of 3€/$3. open daily 8:30 a. open Monday through Friday from 8 a.75). Scheidermannstrasse. to 6 p.m..m. Kurfürstendamm 21 (at Joachimstaler Strasse). in the Hauptbahnhof (see “Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof. (Nov–Mar 10 a. and half-price music and theater tickets.m. weekends 9 a.” earlier in this chapter).m. to 8 p. open daily from 10 a. The zoo . showier. It’s open daily from 10 a. is the major transportation hub on the western side of the city and a good landmark for orienting yourself. West Berlin was an island of capitalism inside Communist East Germany. it costs a minimum of 0.m. The train station Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten.–6 p.). (Nov–Mar daily 10 a. ߜ In eastern Berlin.40€ (50¢) per minute. You can also buy the Berlin Welcome Card (see “Transportation basics” later in this chapter).

ms t isha Lew Europa Center urger Lietzenb i s ts tr. Wittenbergplatz Kle Kons tan Stras zer se Uhlandstr.Augusta. m dam rsten Kurfü HALENSEE S H Fehrbelliner Platz Bundesallee Grunewald S HOHENZOLLERNDAMM H m am nd r lle zo en oh SCHÖNEBERG rg bu se len tras k ec S M he isc S Hundekehlestrasse Breit e St rass e SCHÖNEBERG Dahlem FRIEDENAU Ha up tst ras se r. CHARLOTTENBURG Spandau Kaiserdamm Ma stra rchsse B str achass e strasse Weg TIERGARTEN Le ve tzo ws tra sse BELLEVUE S HANSAVIERTEL 17. Damm eler kanal Goerd thafen Munich Wes trasse ohrn-S Max-D .116 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Berlin Neighborhoods Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Kur t-Sc h um ach er D am m SIEMENSSTADT SIEMENSSTADT To Berlin-Tegel Airport sse se tra s es stra e S e Se See “Charlottenburg Attractions” map Putlitzstrasse Lessin gstrasse Stromstr.Allee F ra mm Spandauer Da Spree Ca ue rst r. orfe Wilm e rsd Friedrich- TIERGARTEN S . See “Tiergarten-area Attractions” map Hohenst aufenstr. Strasse des Juni Kaiser r Str. S WESTKREUZ S SAVIGNYPLATZ m dam rsten Kurfü Tau en tz Str ass e er pest Budarasse St ien str . Bismarckstr Ha Str. gens Sickin S i e m e ns s tra sse MOABIT Turmstra sse e wstrass Quitzo r e rg be e rle ass Pe Str Beusselstrasse Tegeler ier str end as or se ff- Schlossgarten Kaiserin. Ott oSuh rAlle e nkl inst r Schloss Charlottenburg M . Olbe ssstr Gau strassrse tr. Neue Kantstrasse CHARLOTTENBURG S Kantstrasse Leibniz- Savignyplatz S en rd be rg s tr ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN . ch g is b ur Brande n a sse Str m am nd ler l o z en oh er dt tä lfs do Ru r he ru hs e ric ass ied tr Fr S e See “Western Berlin Accomodations and Dining” map e ss ra St WILMERSDORF .

Str as se M da üh m len m - den Unter den Lin Friedrich- Museumsinsel NIKOLAIVIERTEL Ge rt str raud as en se - Kar l-M arx -Al lee JANNOWITZBRÜCKE TIERGARTEN UNTER DEN LINDEN BERLINMITTE S n d w ehrkanal Schöneb Potsda mer S tra sse e ANHALTER BAHNHOF Lin den stra s La S fe r em p e l hofe r Ufe Gitschiner Strasse r La n d sse stra rck o Y S Gne is YORCKSTRASSE KREUZBERG enau stras se Kolonnenstrasse Katzbackstrasse Dudenstrasse Columbiadamm asse nstr hafe Flug To BerlinSchönefeld Airport B o elck es trasse Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Hei nric Strah-Hein sse e- POTSDAMER S Leipziger Platz PLATZ e Leipziger Strass se Or an ien str ass e wehrka nal Urb a nst ras se Hase nheid e Brü stra cken sse - Gr eif sw al d er e ass str ide He rg U er h al e r St rasse Invalidenst e rass See Berlin-Mitte maps d e rs xan Ale tr.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 117 WEDDING Schönhauser Allee nn Fe se as str s au Ch e ss tra es se NORDBAHNHOF S 0 0 0.5 km PRENZLAUER BERG Prin zen stra sse Str as se t Rosen en alid Inv S sse stra ck. Spre e strasse nan m se re St se as str T wBülo sse stra S-Bahn stop S .platz FRIEDRICHht c e STRASSE kn b S Lie rl Ka Mo lls t r. S .Pie elm h il W O ra n ien S Strass e HAUPTBAHNHOF– LEHRTER BAHNHOF Sp ree Pariser Platz S bur HACKESCHER ger Str MARKT Alexander.5 mi N 0.

rises just across the plaza from the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis Kirche (Memorial Church) near the Ku-Damm and Zoo Station. a shopping center and entertainment complex. Upscale shops. The area is more residential than hotel-oriented. one of Berlin’s three opera houses. theaters. Today. about 35 percent of its population is composed of Gastarbeiter (guest workers) from Turkey. the Bröham Museum. Starting in the 1960s and 1970s.118 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany itself is part of the Tiergarten. This neighborhood no longer is a convenient place to stay. Charlottenburg. the former Yugoslavia. The 22-story Europa Center. cafes. however. Charlottenburg The district known as Charlottenburg is the wealthiest and most commercialized in western Berlin. close to . makes a convenient base for visitors. Schöneberg developed in the 19th century as an independent suburb for workers. Charlottenburg’s regal centerpiece is Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace). with lots of bars and clubs. near Potsdamer Platz. many of whom have now lived here for 30 years or more. shops. restaurants. the area was rebuilt as a middle-class neighborhood. nightclubs. Up until reunification. Kreuzberg is where you find the new Jüdisches (Jewish) Museum and the small museum called Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. a tree-lined square a short walk north of Kurfürstendamm. the neighborhood remains funky around the edges. Kreuzberg traditionally has been the poorest and most crowded of western Berlin’s districts. dedicated to the history of divided Berlin. Dahlem was the site of western Berlin’s major museums. Charlottenburg also is the home of the Deutsche Oper Berlin (German Opera House). Kreuzberg Filled with 19th-century tenement buildings (called Hinterhof. you find the best concentration of hotels. Dahlem originally was established as an independent village to the southwest of Berlin’s center. because they have an interior courtyard) constructed for the workers of a rapidly industrializing Prussia. most of them have now moved farther into the city. with its lovely gardens and nearby museums: the Ägyptisches (Egyptian) Museum. Dahlem Now the university district. but you may want to come here to visit the Brücke Museum. and the Berggruen Sammlung (Collection). restaurants. and Greece. the district became home to the city’s artistic countercultural scene. The borough is centrally located. and department stores. Although gentrification is taking place. and cafes fill the neighborhood around Savignyplatz. Along the famous Ku-Damm. which has plenty of hotels and pensions (B&Bs). which runs through it. After WWII. Schöneberg Like Kreuzberg. a beautiful park stretching east and ending at the cultural center known as the Kulturforum.

Wilmersdorf is a very pleasant borough in which to stay.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 119 the Ku-Damm. now called Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt and used for . (The Komische Oper. Berlin-Mitte symbolically begins at Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). The oldest and most historic part of Berlin. occupying the northwest section of Tiergarten. Wilmersdorf is a quiet residential neighborhood filled with an excellent assortment of hotels and pensions and plenty of low-key restaurants and cafes. Tiergarten also is where you find the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag (Parliament) building. the famed Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). just off Unter den Linden. toward the Ku-Damm. The Tiergarten park. is where you find the magnificently restored early-19th-century Schauspielhaus (theater). contains a series of residential buildings designed in the late 1950s by different architects. This 38-sq.) The beautiful neoclassical square called Gendarmenmarkt. Berlin’s densest concentration of gay bars and clubs is in Schöneberg between Nollendorfplatz and Victoria-Luise-Platz.and 19th-century palaces and monuments. with good U-Bahn connections and many hotels and pensions. The grand boulevard called Unter den Linden. also called Stadtmitte (City Center) or just plain Mitte (Center). All in all. including Le Corbusier. this area was. Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) Berlin-Mitte. The Hansaviertel (Hans Quarter). The Tiergarten neighborhood also contains the Kulturforum. I recommend giving this fascinating area at least a full day of your time. Both areas formerly stood behind the Berlin Wall and now are full of new buildings and ongoing construction. on the east side of Tiergarten park. in fact. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is the main opera house in eastern Berlin. Wannsee is the most popular lake for swimming and boating. which starts at the Brandenburg Gate and extends east.” and it refers both to western Berlin’s massive urban park and a business-residential district of the same name. Closer in. Berlin-Mitte has numerous attractions.-mile) lake-filled forest begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm and is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. Walter Gropius. and other museums. and Alvar Aalto. Wilmersdorf The huge park called the Grünewald (groo-nuh-vald) takes up the western portion of this borough. Berlin’s third opera house. is lined with 18th. originally intended as a backdrop to the grand avenues laid out by the German kaisers. also is in Berlin-Mitte. is the new name of the central section of former East Berlin. Before the war and the division of the city. contains the Berlin Zoo in its southwest corner. Tiergarten The name Tiergarten means “Animal Garden. the center of Berlin. home of the Philharmonic (Philharmonic Hall). Tiergarten is one of the best areas in Berlin for hotels and restaurants.-km (15-sq.

de). The following sections describe the various options you have for getting from place to place. see the inside back cover of this book. is now the hippest neighborhood in eastern Berlin and a favored spot for young Berliners to live. Except to check out the ongoing gentrification. Luckily. ferries on the lakes. Gay and lesbian visitors may want to explore Prenzlauer Berg’s burgeoning gay cafe and club scene. the transportation hub of Berlin-Mitte. northeast of Mitte. The system consists of the U-Bahn (underground train). S-Bahn. was the center of activity in the Soviet era. and relatively inexpensive. Alexanderplatz. and even dedicated walkers won’t be able to cover it entirely on foot.). Friedrichstrasse. safe. Period taverns and riverside restaurants make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque stroll. just south of Alexanderplatz along the Spree River. and Strassenbahn Berlin’s excellent public-transportation system makes getting around fast. Berlin has a comprehensive public transportation system. Berlin’s Transport Authority (% 030/19449 24hour information line. Transportation basics You can buy your ticket at any U-Bahn station (at windows or machines that have English translations) or from a bus driver. one of the highest structures in Europe.120 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany concerts. which intersects Unter den Linden. site of four major museums. It’s now being completely redone. The Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). Luxury boutiques and department stores crowd the street. short-term travelers will find little of interest. convenient. buses. and a few Strassenbahnen (streetcars) that still operate in eastern Berlin only. Getting Around Berlin Berlin is a huge city. and not to everyone’s liking: Eight skyscrapers will eventually surround Alexanderplatz and reduce the prominence of the Soviet-era Fernsehturm (TV tower). the S-Bahn (surface or elevated train). is a charming area restored to look as it did (with some contemporary touches) in Berlin’s medieval and baroque eras. This well-integrated public-transport system is run by BVG. at 368 m. At the eastern end of Unter den Linden. www. (1.207 ft. you find the marvelous Museumsinsel (Museum Island). You can also buy . bus. a square named for Russian Czar Alexander I. is regaining its prewar reputation as Berlin’s preeminent shopping street. Prenzlauer Berg. For a map of Berlin’s U-Bahn and S-Bahn. Going public: U-Bahn. U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines converge at Friedrichstrasse train station.bvg.

before your first trip.25) for zones A and B. Zone C extends far beyond the city’s borders. All your sightseeing within the Berlin city limits will be in zones A and B.m. you also have several money-saving options. you find a map of the stops.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 121 tickets and passes (and receive a free transportation map) at the BVGPavillion on Hardenbergplatz. all the way to Potsdam. S-Bahn (elevated train) The venerable elevated train system in Berlin is called the S-Bahn. the following day and costs 5. you can get a Kurzstrecke (short-stretch) ticket for 1. each car contains a map of . The fare is based on three zones (A. In each car. A regular Normaltarif or Einzelfahrscheine (one-way fare). B.or S-Bahn stops or 6 stops on a bus or streetcar). Thirteen lines cover most of central Berlin. For short hops (3 consecutive U. good for two hours in zones A and B is 2. A large U in a blue box identifies each station. the office is open daily from 6 a. which costs 16€ ($18) for 48 hours or 22€ ($24) for 72 hours. to 10 p.m. you’re guilty of Schwarzfahren (black travel) and fined 75€ ($94) on the spot. Service is fast and efficient. You must validate your ticket by sticking it into one of the validation boxes on all U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms or inside buses and streetcars. The entire transportation system runs on an honor system — you won’t find turnstiles or ticket collectors. One ticket enables you to change from U-Bahn to S-Bahn and to the bus during a two-hour period. ߜ If you’re in Berlin for two days. and C). ߜ The 7-Tage-Karte (7-day ticket) costs 25€ ($32) for zones A and B. and the routes are clearly marked in all stations and in the trains. If yours hasn’t been validated. Long-term tickets are validated only once. Ticket inspectors may suddenly appear to check everyone’s ticket. B. but after midnight only two lines — U9 and U2 — run on a limited schedule. and C) and provides price reductions of up to 50 percent at many tourist attractions in Berlin.80€ ($7. directly outside Zoo Station. The card is good for all public transportation in central Berlin (zones A. including the following: ߜ A Tageskarte (day ticket) is good on all forms of transportation from validation until 3 a. they intersect at Bahnhof Zoo. Nine lines crisscross the city in all directions and extend to the far reaches of Brandenburg.m. consider the Berlin Welcome Card.20€ ($1.10€ ($2. When purchasing tickets for public transportation. U-Bahn (underground train) The subway in Berlin is called the U-Bahn.50).50). which are announced.

122 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
the stops, which are announced. A large S in a green circle identifies each station. S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations sometimes overlap, so you can change from one to the other. Service is basically nonexistent after midnight. The S-Bahn is particularly handy if you’re going from Bahnhof Zoo east to the Friedrichstrasse/Unter den Linden area or southwest to Grünewald and the lakes.

Riding atop one of Berlin’s double-decker buses (single-deckers also operate) is a fun way to see the city. A green H (for Haltstelle, or stop) in a yellow circle identifies each stop. Regular service begins about 5 a.m. and ends about midnight. Night buses (designated with an N) leave every half-hour, going west and east, from Bahnhof Zoo and Bahnhof Hackescher Markt (near Alexanderplatz in eastern Berlin). One of the best and cheapest sightseeing routes is on Bus 100, which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and travels through the Tiergarten, passing Bellevue Palace (the Berlin residence of the German president), the Reichstag, and the Victory Column all the way to the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Museum Island, and Alexanderplatz.

Strassenbahn (streetcar)
Streetcars, called Strassenbahnen, run in eastern Berlin only. Because you can get practically everywhere on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you probably won’t be using the streetcar. Ticket prices are the same as for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and buses.

Taking a taxi
Thousands of ivory-colored taxis cruise Berlin’s main streets. Hailing one during the day is easier than at night. The fare starts at 2.50€ ($3.10) and costs 1.55€ ($1.90) per kilometer (1⁄2 mile). For short distances, flag down a taxi and ask for the Winktarif: a special rate (3€/ $3.75) for a short lift. To order a taxi, call % 210-101. Tip taxi drivers by rounding up to the nearest euro.

Driving a car
I don’t recommend renting ein Auto in Berlin. Local drivers tend to be aggressive, and the street system itself can be fiendishly difficult to navigate. The public-transport system gets you everywhere you want at a fraction of the cost. If you’re out very late, you can grab a cab to get back to your hotel. The only time a car may come in useful is when you want to explore the surrounding countryside. The offices for Hertz (Budapester Strasse 37; % 030/262-1053) and Avis (Budapester Strasse 43; % 030/230-9370) are close to Bahnhof Zoo.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


If you drive in town, be aware that the right lanes in inner-city areas are often reserved for buses, taxis, and bicycles only. When turning right, you must give way to any vehicle (including bikes) in that lane. Some right-hand lanes are reserved for buses at stated times and otherwise can be used by cars. Also remember that in Germany, using a mobile phone while driving is against the law. In Berlin and throughout Germany, cars can park only on the right side of the road. In most inner-city areas, you must obtain a parking ticket at one of the street-side ticket machines to display on your dashboard. The police quickly tow cars that violate these laws. If that happens, you can go to any police station to find out where your car is. The whole process costs more than 150€ ($187) — and a great deal of time. Parking garages are more expensive than street parking, but they save you the potential hassle of getting towed.

Staying in Style
Finding a hotel room in Berlin is easy, unless a big trade fair or soccer match is happening in town. Prices generally are lower than in other major European cities. (You can find a good hotel in Berlin for less than 150€/$187 a night.) I do, however, strongly recommend that you reserve your room before you arrive. If you arrive in Berlin without a hotel room, you can go to one of the BERLIN infostores (for locations and opening hours see “Finding Information After You Arrive,” earlier in this chapter). For 3€ ($3.75), the infostore staff will find you a room. You can also book hotels by calling % 030/25-00-25. For locations of the hotels in this chapter, see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining.”

The top hotels
For details on two of the city’s best hotels, Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) and Kempinski Hotel Bristol ($$$$), see Chapter 22.

Arco Hotel
$ Schöneberg
This small, gay-friendly hotel is housed in a four-story turn-of-the-century building on a quiet street near the Ku-Damm. Most of the 21 fairly large rooms have high windows and modern furniture. Private bathrooms, all with showers, are on the small side. One of the nicest features is the airy breakfast room, which looks out on a courtyard garden (you can eat outside in warm weather). The English-speaking staff is friendly and helpful. One potential drawback: no elevator.

124 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining
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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


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126 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
See map p. 124. Geisbergstrasse 30, 10777 Berlin. % 030/218-8065. Fax: 030/21475178. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Ansbacher Strasse and west on Geisbergstrasse). Rates: 65€–97€ ($81–$121) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

$ Charlottenburg
Located on the top floors of a large apartment building, Artemisia is an excellent hotel for women only. The rooms are large, light, and free of froufrou but still have a warm ambience heightened by splashes of color. Ten of the 12 rooms have toilets and small showers. You can save money by renting one of the two rooms that share a toilet and shower. A private roof terrace with wonderful views over Berlin becomes a gathering spot on warm afternoons and evenings. See map p. 124. Brandenburgischestrasse 18, 10707 Berlin. % 030/873-8905. Fax: 030/861-8653. U-Bahn: Blissestrasse (then a 3minute walk northwest on Brandenburgischestrasse). Rates: 89€–115€ ($111–$144) double with bathroom; 79€–89€ ($99–$111) double without bathroom. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Art-Hotel Charlottenburger Hof
$ –$$ Charlottenburg
Located across from the Charlottenburg S-Bahn station, this budget hotel is one of the best and brightest in Berlin. This inexpensive property is unusually well decorated for its price range and offers several amenities, such as in-room safes, hair dryers, and laundry facilities. Primary colors of blue, yellow, and red (plus white) brighten some of the 45 contemporary-style rooms, a few of which have balconies. Rooms and bathrooms, which have showers, are fairly small. All guest rooms are equipped with computers that provide free Internet access. The breakfast buffet costs an additional 8€ ($ 10). See map p. 124. Stuttgarter Platz 14, 10627 Berlin. % 030/329-070. Fax: 030/332-3723. S-Bahn: Charlottenburg (the hotel is north of the station). Rates: 65€–125€ ($81–$156) double. AE, MC, V.

Baxpax Downtown Hostel Hotel
$ –$$ Mitte
If you’re looking for a really inexpensive place to stay in Berlin, check out this clean, friendly hostel/hotel in Mitte. You can stay in an eight-bed dorm room, a more private double room with a shower and toilet, or a small studio with a bathroom. Nothing fancy or frilly here: The rooms have been simply but nicely designed and there’s a cafe and a roof terrace for relaxing and meeting fellow backpackers and explorers. Baxpax has two other hostels in eastern Berlin in addition to this one: Baxpax Kreuzberg Hostel Berlin, Skalitzer Strasse 104 (% 030/6951-8322; S-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor),



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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin




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128 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
and Mitte’s Backpacker Hostel Berlin, Chauseestrasse 102 (% 030/28390935; U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). See map p. 127. Ziegelstrasse 28, 10117 Berlin. % 030/2787-4880. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse (then a 5-minute walk south on Tucholsky Strasse and west on Ziegelstrasse). Rates: 15€–18€ ($19–$22) dorm bed without bathroom; 59€ ($74) double room with shower and toilet; 75–119€ ($94–$149) studio/apartment with bathroom. MC, V.

Bleibtreu Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
If you’re looking for chic, central, contemporary digs near the Ku-Damm, this 60-room boutique hotel is the place for you. The rooms aren’t particularly large but are artfully designed and furnished. The furniture coverings are hypoallergenic, and no chemicals of any kind are used for cleaning. The small, stylish bathrooms have sinks of carved stone. Other features include remote-control-operated lights, wireless phones, fax machines in every suite, and electric awnings over street-facing windows. The hotel has a Wellness Center where you can take a pore-cleansing sauna. Restaurant 31, near the small lobby, lays out a healthy breakfast buffet (an extra 15€/$ 19); the bar is lively at night. See map p. 124. Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Berlin. % 030/884-740. Fax: 030/8847-4444. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). Rates: 132€–232€ ($165–$240) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Grand Hyatt Berlin
$$$$ Tiergarten
The Grand Hyatt Berlin, right smack-dab in the center of all the action in the new Potsdamer Platz area, is one of the coolest places to stay, and one of the more expensive. This big hotel, built in 1998 with 342 rooms, is sleek and glamorous throughout. Rooms are large and have beautiful wood finishes and wonderful bathrooms set up with Japanese-style soaking tubs. Restaurants include Vox, for Eurasian cuisine and sushi; Tizian, for international classics; and Bistro Dietrich, for casual cafe-style food. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. 124. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, 10785 Berlin. % 030/2553-1234. Fax: 030/2553-1235. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west to Marlene-Dietrich-Platz). Rates: 240€–430€ ($300–$537) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Alsterhof Berlin
$ –$$$$ Wilmersdorf
Location — just a few minutes walk from Bahnhof Zoo and the Ku-Damm — is this hotel’s greatest asset. If you’re in Berlin on business and need a reasonably priced full-service hotel in a central location, this place fills the bill. The 195 rooms are comfortable and quiet, and have plenty of extra

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


amenities (trouser press, safe, minibar, hair dryer), although they aren’t particularly stylish. You find a pool and sauna on the sixth floor. The breakfast buffet costs 16€ ($20). See map p. 124. Augsburger Strasse 5, 10789 Berlin. % 030/212-420. Fax: 030/2183949. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east across Joachimstaler Platz and east on Augsburger Strasse). Rates: 85€–200 ($108–$250) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Brandenburger Hof
$$$$ Charlottenburg
The beautifully appointed, 86-room Hotel Brandenburger Hof offers superior service, an on-site spa, and one of the top restaurants in Berlin. Centrally located in western Berlin, this Relais & Châteaux hotel is close to the Ku-Damm and the Tiergarten. The guest rooms are unusually large for Berlin and furnished in an elegant Bauhaus style that is rarely encountered in other hotels. Bathrooms have wood and granite finishes. You can enjoy the sumptuous breakfast buffet, included in the price of the room, in a glass-walled conservatory built around a Japanese garden. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Die Quadriga (named for the four-horse chariot atop the Brandenburg Gate), earned a Michelin star (see “Dining Out,” later in this chapter). See map p. 124. Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Berlin. % 030/214-050. Fax: 030/21405100. U-Bahn: Kurfurstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east on Augsburger Strasse and south on Rankestrasse to Eislebener Strasse). Rates: 245€–295€ ($306–$369) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Domus
$$ –$$$ Wilmersdorf
Set in an unusually pretty section of Wilmersdorf, down the street from St. Ludwig’s Church and within walking distance of the Ku-Damm, this modern 73-room hotel has a calm, appealing simplicity. The spacious rooms are quiet (thanks to soundproof windows) and tastefully decorated with highquality contemporary furniture (lots of light-colored wood). Rooms face the inner courtyard or the street. The bathrooms are unusually large and have either a shower or a tub. Breakfast is served in a lovely dining room. Free high-speed Internet service is a nice bonus. See map on p. 124. Uhlandstrasse 49, 10719 Berlin. % 030/880-3440. Fax: 030/88034444. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west on Hohenzollerndamm and north on Uhlandstrasse). Rates: 115€–150€ ($144–$187) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Pension Niebuhr
$ Charlottenburg
This pleasant, gay-friendly pension in Charlottenburg is one of the best deals in Berlin. The 12 rooms, all on the second floor of a turn-of-the-century apartment building (no elevator), have a fresh, modest flair. The furnishings and

130 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
color schemes are bright and cheerful. Three street-facing rooms have balconies; the rooms facing the courtyard (Hinterhof) can be a bit dark, but they’re very quiet. One bonus: Breakfast (5€/$ 6.25) is brought up to your room. See map p. 124. Niebuhrstrasse 74, 10629 Berlin. % 030/324-9595. Fax: 030/881-4707. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Niebuhrstrasse). Rates: 53€ ($66) double without bathroom; 72€ ($90) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

Pension Nürnberger Eck
$ Charlottenburg
If you’re seeking an atmospheric old-fashioned pension, try this one on the second floor of a building near the Europa Center, a shopping and entertainment complex. High-ceilinged rooms with heavy doors open off a long, dark hallway. Although the eight rooms are stylistically something of a mishmash, with patterned wallpaper, Oriental rugs, and big pieces of furniture, the pension does convey an Old Berlin charm. The bathrooms are a decent size, and the breakfast room is pleasant. See map p. 124. Nürnberger Strasse 24a, 10789 Berlin. % 030/235-1780. Fax: 030/2351-7899. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Tauentzienstrasse and south on Nürnberger Strasse). Rates: 70€–92€ ($87–$115) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Savoy Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
The quietly charming Savoy, which opened in 1930, has played host to more than a few celebrities through the years. You can’t beat the location, just a skip from the Ku-Damm, or the unobtrusively efficient service. The 125 rooms provide spacious and comfortable accommodations, with large bathrooms, but don’t look for any modern design touches here; the hotel is completely up-to-date with wireless and cable networks, but the décor remains resolutely old-fashioned. There’s a good restaurant, Weinrot, serving international and regional dishes, and if your room rate includes the breakfast buffet, you’re in for a treat. Nonsmokers may find the lingering cigar fumes from the Times Bar, just off the lobby, bothersome. See map p. 124. Fasanenstrasse 9–10, 10623 Berlin. % 800-223-5652 in the U.S. or 030/311-030. Fax: 030/3110-3666. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse and north on Fasanenstrasse). Rates: 152€–295€ ($190–$369) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Runner-up hotels
Ambassador Berlin
$$ Schöneberg A comfortable, old-fashioned “retro” look characterizes this hotel located near the huge Kaufhaus des Westens department store. See map p. 124.

See map p. www. See map p. 10785 Berlin. Ku’Damm 101 $$ Wilmersdorf A minimalist aesthetic. or 030/20230. 10623 See map 10117 Berlin. clean and comfortable. 10629 Berlin. 10719 Berlin. www. 124.ritz-carlton. Fax: 030/327-7440. Fax: 030/2005-5555. ߜ Grand Hotel Esplanade. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. ߜ Ritz-Carlton. 10117 Berlin. Mohrenstrasse 30. The big splurge If you’re looking for top-of-the-line luxury. 124.S. trendy hotel may look a bit sterile to some. Fax: 030/2023-4269. Grolmanstrasse 35.. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. % 030/88900. % 030/219-020. See map p. Hotel Wilmersdorf $ Wilmersdorf This no-fuss pension is large.hotelartnouveau. Friedrichstrasse 158–164. % 800-241-3333 in the U. See map p. % 030/520-0550. www. Fax: 030/ U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse. 124.hilton.esplanade. here are a few more $$$$ suggestions: ߜ Berlin Hilton. See map p. www. % 030/254-780.westin-grand. % 800-937-8461 in the U. www. and offers a buffet breakfast overlooking the rooftops of Berlin. sorat-hotels. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz. and a bit of “I’m so cool” attitude characterize this interesting new hotel. Fax: 030/2190-2380. Fax: 030/ 265-1171. Hotel Art Nouveau $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg This small. 127. www. See map p. Fax: 030/ ߜ Westin Grand 10711 Berlin. or 030/20270. atmospheric hotel is on the fourth floor of an Art Nouveau apartment house. 124. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. Schaperstrasse 36. .de. but the place is conveniently located and impeccably maintained. 10787 Berlin. Hecker’s Hotel $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg The streamlined rooms in this small. Fax: 030/777-5555. and Canada. See map p.heckershotel. and Canada. Kurfürstendamm 101. Fax: 030/ 10785 Berlin.kudamm101.S. 124. % 800-445-8667 in the U. 127. Leibnizstrasse 59. 124. Lützowufer 15. Potsdamer Platz 3. or 030/33-77-77. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. % 030/327-7440.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 131 Bayreutherstrasse 42–43. some vivid colors. www. www. % 030/2177-07476.

places to enjoy a casual meal with a freshly drawn beer. Fancier restaurants often serve what’s called neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). and pea soup (Erbsensuppe).de. pickled or roast pork (Schweinefleisch) or pork knuckles (Eisbein) with red cabbage and dumplings. which uses the old standbys as a starting point but dolls them up with unusual ingredients and international touches. see Chapter 12. Scattered all around town are vendors selling Berlin’s classic fast-food snacks: Currywurst (sausage with a glob of “curry” sauce) or fried bratwurst. U-Bahn: Günzelstrasse. duck. See map p. see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining” earlier in this chapter. For locations of the restaurants in this chapter. Grabbing a wurst or eating at the stand-up counters of the fast-food snack shops (look for signs that read IMBISS or SCHNELL-IMBISS) is a good way to save time and money.hotel-pension-muenchenin-berlin. meatballs (Buletten) with boiled potatoes. For a few recommended brewpubs. fried potatoes. . round the total up to 7€ and add another euro or two if the service was good. Game like venison. Typical Berlin dishes include grilled or pickled herring with onions. Dining Out Berlin offers every kind of international cuisine. Fax: 030/8579-1222. and lighter dishes) at one of Berlin’s plentiful cafes.30€. afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is a time-honored tradition. Güntzelstrasse 62. and plenty of other nice touches in this third-floor pension. Restaurant and cafe bills include the service charge and value-added tax (MWST). You can always get an inexpensive meal (soup. and wild boar appears seasonally. 10717 Berlin. and bacon. for example. % 030/857-9120. I list some good cafe choices at the end of this chapter. www. 124. but the local culinary tradition is fairly basic and very filling. modern décor. If the bill is 6. carp and trout often are available. but rounding out the total bill with an extra amount as a gratuity is standard practice.132 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Pension München $ Wilmersdorf You find simple. original artwork. And speaking of cafes: Don’t forget that in Germany. sandwiches. A plate with various cold meats is called a Schlachteplatte (schlock-tuh-plaht-tuh).

eggs. For dessert. Main courses: 22€–39€ ($27–$49). fish. Otto-Suhr-Allee 144.and French-inspired dishes. is wonderful. AE. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25).m. try the pumpernickel mousse. and outdoor seating is available in good weather. duck with cassis sauce. V. The menu changes daily according to what’s freshest in the market. The fish soup. MC. For many years. Open: Tues–Sat 5:30–11:30 p.–2 a. poultry. and plenty of antiques. 124. Dinner choices include homemade pasta. beef.m. Bamburger Reiter is small and rustic. Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets). and may include cream of mushroom soup. try a bowl of potato soup with sausage or one of the many salads. including fresh fish. % 030/313-2625. Reservations recommended. MC. See map p. . See map p. The staff is friendly. Sat–Sun 10 a. For lunch. but the place now serves more Austrian. Every dish is freshly prepared. and couscous.m. bar. Chez Martial $$ Charlottenburg FRENCH Top-quality products and good cooking have helped establish Chez Martial as one of Berlin’s most popular French restaurants. Regensburgerstrasse 7. Fasanenstrasse 81A. The restaurant has a outdoor arbor for summertime dining. roast quail. % 030/341-1033. The menu changes daily and offers several main courses. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Hardenberg Strasse and south on Fasanenstrasse). No credit cards. Reservations required. % 030/218-4282.m. See map p. Come to this gay-friendly place for an English breakfast (bacon. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Regensburgerstrasse). and a vegetarian Maultaschen (stuffed pasta). so be ready to wait (while savoring a bottle of good French wine). chicken. 124.–2 a.m. Main courses: 9€–19€ ($11–$23).–2 a. Open: Tues–Sun 6–11:30 p. lamb. this was a temple of neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine).) Bamberger Reiter $$$$ Schöneberg AUSTRIAN Housed in a century-old wine tavern at the corner of Regensburger Strasse and Bamburger Strasse. and cafe rolled into one. (winter Sat–Sun 12:30 p. Reservations recommended for dinner.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 133 The top restaurants Art $ –$$ Charlottenburg GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A restaurant. V. 124.. Art is tucked beneath the S-Bahn track at Fasanenstrasse. marinated boiled beef with chive cream. cooked in a broth of fish and shellfish that’s whipped into a foam. DC.m.m. or smoked-fish pie. flowers. and beans). Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. with parquet floors. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Richard-Wagner-Strasse and west on Otto-SuhrAllee).m.

. Everything is of the finest quality. or fried chicken legs. V. but you need to reserve well in advance because the elegant restaurant seats only 28 diners. MC. DC. which celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2005. Other starters include Beetenbartsch. % 030/214-050. and a tasty potato soup with shrimp and bacon. Main courses are something of an adventure: stewed pickled beef with green dumplings and stewed cabbage. while another section contains this Italian-influenced restaurant. The restaurant also has a well-stocked wine cellar. to midnight. See map p. See map p. Part of the building is a museum. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 5minute walk southwest on Mühlendamm to Spreeufer. because that’s what this place does best. onions. Marjellchen $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg EAST PRUSSIAN Old East Prussian recipes prepared by the owner’s grandmother inspired the dishes that are served at this popular restaurant. % 030/883-2676.50€–9.m.50€ ($6–$12). Dishes are classically French and seasonally fresh. In Hotel Brandenburger Hof.m. a richly ornamented 1765 mansion. See map p. a delicious red-beet soup with beef strips and sour cream. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). 124. 127. For an appetizer. Reservations recommended. Mommsenstrasse 9. You’ll want a table outside if the weather is fine. smoked ham in cream sauce. grilled trout. Spreeufer 2. V. Main courses: 13€–19€ ($16–$23). Open: Daily 11 a. swordfish with fresh tomatoes. Reservations required. is the Ephraim-Palais. which sits right next to the Spree River. AE. The wonderful wine list includes several wines available by the half-bottle or by the carafe. Open: Mon–Sat 5 p. AE. and grilled or baked crayfish. AE. % 030/242-5183. MC. DC. the one-star Michelin restaurant (in Michelin’s guides. Main courses: 35€ ($44). And you’ll probably want to order fish. smoked Pomeranian goose.m. 124. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 2-minute walk south on Eislebener Strasse). V. fixed-price menu 55€–110€ ($69–$137). Pasta is made fresh daily. try homemade aspic. You also find vegetarian dishes. to midnight. Choices include salmon with white-wine sauce. or roast of elk with chanterelle mushrooms. such as broccoli soufflé. pork kidneys in sweet-andsour cream sauce. the pedestrian street along the river). pizzas 4. 1 star means very good) in the beautiful Brandenburger Hof Hotel.134 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Die Quadriga $$$$ Wilmersdorf FRENCH Die Quadriga. MC. Open: Mon–Fri 7–11 p. Eislebener Strasse 14. La Riva $$ Mitte ITALIAN/SEAFOOD One of the prettiest buildings in the restored Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). Closed July 17–Aug 20. just south of Alexanderplatz. Reservations recommended. and the good pizzas are kid-pleasing. offers a truly memorable dining experience. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). and basil.

U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse). MC. No credit cards. AE. sashimi. and new potatoes. Spreepromenade beside Liebknecht Bridge. Kantstrasse 152. between Savignyplatz and the Memorial Church. with wooden tables and benches. Diners mark what they want on the menu (an English menu is available) and hand it to the server. spare. % 030/23828-3464. In the past couple of years. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). AE. the restaurant has expanded its classic French bistro menu to include more upscale Austrian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. The restaurant’s interior. % 030/313-8052. with marble. to midnight. and elegant. across from the giant Berlin cathedral and beneath the Radisson SAS Hotel (of which it’s now a part). MC. Reservations recommended. directly across from the Gendarmenmarkt. is nothing fancy.m. The dining room has long communal tables. See map p. Main courses: 16€–28€ ($20–$35). inexpensive lunch. See map p. Reservations recommended. reasonably priced selection of sushi. The best bet for lunch is one of the fixed-price specials. Main courses change often. saddle of veal with lemon butter. Open: Daily noon to 1 a. Menu offerings typically include baked tuna fish with Asian vegetables. Open: Daily noon to 11 p. Toto $ –$$ Charlottenburg ITALIAN Toto is a good place to sit outside on a warm Berlin afternoon and have a good. Wiener Schnitzel. % 030/2038-87110. Main courses: 7€–13€ ($9–$16). or you can dine outside in nice weather. the restaurant is large. by its blood-colored awning and red-sandstone facade. and other specialties. plus noodle soups. ham. risotto with porcini mushrooms.m.m. glazed duck breast. this new Japanese-inspired noodle house offers a good. and satays (skewers with meat or fish). U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 3-minute walk east on Französische Strasse). See map p. V. 127. and suckling pig. 124. lunch specials 14€ ($17). has been a Berlin institution. 127. Open: Daily 11:30 a. Französische Strasse 47. Reservations recommended. You can get a good plate of spaghetti or a good . fried noodles. V. Main courses: 10€–25€ ($13–$31). Restaurant Borchardt $$ –$$$ Mitte FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL You can recognize Borchardt. You may find asparagus with hollandaise sauce. Inside. gilding. and a bit of French attitude. Paris Bar $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg FRENCH/AUSTRIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Since the end of WWII. or grilled foie gras.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Noodle $ –$$ Mitte JAPANESE/ASIAN 135 Located right beside the Spree River. the Paris Bar. fresh fish.

See map p. Vau $$$$ Mitte INTERNATIONAL This sleek and unabashedly upscale gastronomic showcase. The bean soup is filling. but I still recommend this place. The lasagna is worth trying. 127. % 030/211-6642. Open: Daily 6 p. No credit cards. rather narrow room with an arched ceiling. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte (then a 5minute walk east across Gendarmenmarkt). has earned a Michelin star for its refined cooking. Zur Letzten Instanz $ –$$ Mitte BERLINER The former East Berlin now has several trendy new restaurants. V. V. All kinds of meat dishes and some good seafood (calamari and scampi grilled or cooked with radicchio and rosemary in white-wine sauce) round out the menu. AE. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25). The menu is huge and the cooking is reliable. and 7–11:30 p. % 030/202-9730.m. fixed-price dinner 80€–100€ ($100–$125). Bleibtreustrasse 55. available every Tuesday and Friday (market days). includes grilled salmon with butter and lemon and grilled crayfish cooked in olive oil. Trattoria da Muntagnola $ –$$ Wilmersdorf ITALIAN This popular Italian place is casually rustic. Fresh fish. Reservations required.m. See map p. however. and very beautiful. DC. Jägerstrasse 54–55. Fuggerstrasse 27. which opened near the Gendarmenmarkt in early 1997. In this long. Note: The restaurant can be a bit smoky. dating from 1525. Main courses: 28€–38€ ($35–$47).m. the menu has several items that kids generally like. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Motzstrasse. Some of the pastas are made on the premises. everything is very precise. particularly the Pizza della Mamma with bacon and Parma ham. very modern. and various fish choices. MC. Vau is a very dress-up kind of place for a superfancy lunch or dinner with impeccable service. to midnight. classic Wiener Schnitzel. Open: Daily noon to 2 a. The restaurant occupies two floors of a much-restored . with braids of garlic hanging from the beamed ceiling. not remarkable. % 030/312-5449. north on Luther Strasse. too.136 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany salad. 124. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. The casual atmosphere makes Toto a good place to bring kids. The pizzas are good. which happens to be Berlin’s oldest restaurant. AE. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). See map p. 124. DC. and west on Fuggerstrasse). roast duck breast with herbs and carrots. The menu choices are deftly prepared and can be surprisingly unfussy: venison with artichokes and mushrooms.m. The menu includes a nice selection of Italian wines and aperitifs. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). MC. Reservations recommended.

is particularly rich in cafes. % 030/242-5528. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. or the roast bratwurst. The cafes likewise are bars. try the chocolate-covered pancakes filled with blueberries. you find an old-fashioned cafe with a balcony overlooking the busy Ku-Damm. % 030/208-2655.m. 124. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 1 a. Meals range from 7€ to 9€ ($8. Waisenstrasse 14–16.m. meatballs. as a sign of post-reunification nostalgia for a bit of Old Berlin. Starbucks is now a presence in Berlin. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). Main courses: 7€–10€ ($8. % 030/885-7480. or onion fillings. Wash everything down with a cold. These are places to go for breakfast. so you also can get a beer or a glass of wine. . vanilla ice cream.m. MC. V. foamy Bier von Fass (beer from the tap). The menu usually has dishes like tortellini with cheese sauce. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41 (see map p. The best cafes Berlin is a city filled with cafes. too. and braised lamb knuckles with green beans and dumplings. or a light meal or snack. The cafe is open daily from 10 a.75–$13). 127. Try the jacket potatoes with herring. convivial. DC. Kurfürstendamm 218 (see map p.. which come with a variety of sauces. Beneath the arches of Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station (SBahnbogen 30). to midnight. between Savignyplatz and the Ku-Damm. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 3-minute walk south on Waisenstrasse). 127. I recommend the homemade Bulette (meatballs). U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 1-minute walk east along the street below the tracks). ߜ Café Aedes. The menu is unpretentious and the portions hearty. with choice locations on Unter den Linden near the Brandenburg Gate and on the Ku-Damm at Wittenbergplatz.m.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 137 baroque building in the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). Bleibtreustrasse (U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Zur Nolle was a busy working-class beer hall beneath the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station.–6 p. See map p. upstairs. and very hip. soups. For dessert. DC. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse). ߜ Café/Bistro Leysieffer. V.75–$11).m. This place is a good one for having an elegant breakfast or light lunch. See map p. onions. For old time’s sake. Sun 11:30 a. to midnight. and vegetarian salads. 127. yogurt. AE.m. Meals range from 10€ to 16€ ($13–$20). % 030/ 285-8278. has a pastry and candy shop at street level. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). MC. is trendy. Vegetarian offerings include vegetable lasagna and roasted broccoli with cheese served on pasta. bacon. a cup of coffee and a piece of Kuchen (cake). AE. Zur Nolle $ Mitte GERMAN A hundred years ago. and the menu is as traditional and atmospheric as can be. and whipped cream. or mushrooms). apple. The place closed in 1968 (GDR years) but reopened in 1993. Sun noon to 11 p. Main courses include Old Berlin staples like grilled herring. and additions (fried egg.m.m. to 7 p. spices.

m.m. Oranienburger Strasse 27 (see map p. . The menu includes pastas. miso soup with noodles. 124. soups. salads.m.. salads. is one of the best places to see the “new” eastern Berlin in all its up-to-the-nanosecond trendiness. to 1 a. A meal costs around 7€ ($8.m. occupies two modern-looking rooms in a 19th-century villa 1 block south of the Ku-Damm. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($9– $22). % 030/ 281-2095. Fasanenstrasse 23 (see map p. narrow room with original 1920s wall paintings and modern furniture.m. U-Bahn: Hohenzollernplatz). % 030/882-5414. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). you find sushi. The cafe is open daily from 9:30 a. 127. and vegetarian curries. and an all-day breakfast.m. to 4 a.138 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ߜ Café Silberstein. The cafe is open Monday to Friday from 10 a. to 5 a. The cafe is housed in a long. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. On the menu. ߜ Cafe Wintergarten in Literaturhaus Berlin.75). tall.

although you also find picturesque parks and lakes. thanks to rebuilding in Potsdamer Platz and portions of eastern Berlin. The city is particularly rich in museums. B Sightseeing in Berlin Where do you begin? Do you want to spend all your time in Berlin’s fabulous museums? Saunter and shop your way down famous avenues like Unter den Linden or the Ku-Damm? See historic buildings like the Reichstag? Check out the “new” Berlin at Potsdamer Platz? You have to make some decisions because the possibilities for sightseeing in Berlin are almost endless. and historic architecture. and 31. famous avenues and riverside promenades. Remember: Nearly all Berlin museums are closed Mondays throughout the year. see the “TiergartenArea Attractions. Plus. The places described in this section are my roster of the most important Berlin attractions. . Note: The ages for children’s tickets always are 6 to 14. this city has more new buildings than any other city in the world. December 24.” and “Berlin-Mitte Attractions” maps in this chapter. For locations. 25. and the Tuesday after Easter. and at some museums children under 16 are admitted free of charge. They’re also closed January 1. kids younger than 6 generally get in for free.Chapter 12 Exploring Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Berlin’s top attractions ᮣ Choosing a tour that’s right for you ᮣ Finding the hot shopping spots ᮣ Discovering Berlin’s performing arts and nightlife ᮣ Taking a side trip to Potsdam and the palace of Sanssouci erlin overflows with sightseeing options and diversions. except where otherwise indicated.” “Charlottenburg Attractions.

and the Neue Nationalgalerie (with 20thcentury art). which you can visit before or after a guided palace tour. smb. is a group of buildings known as the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). is home to the fascinating Ethnologisches Museum with rich collections of North American Indian art and artifacts and several other museums concerned with world cultures. They include the Altes Museum. a restored historic neighborhood.” You can purchase the SchauLUST museum pass at any of the BERLIN infostores (for addresses. Unter den Linden. a grand boulevard. close to Potsdamer Platz. The pass gains you admittance into nearly all the museums described in the next section. and histosric buildings in the palace gardens. a baroque square. which now contains the Ägyptisches Museum (with the famous bust of Nefertiti). home to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). On the eastern edge of the Tiergarten. ߜ Dahlem: This leafy suburb. and the Bröhan Museum (with Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture). the newest area of Berlin. In this same vicinity. where you find the Filmmuseum Berlin. the Pergamon Museum (with the giant Pergamon altar and Middle Eastern antiquities). and the Reichstag (House of Parliament). 7. the Alte Nationalgalerie (with 19th-century art). The Kulturforum area is within walking distance of Potsdamer Platz.spk-berlin.50€ ($ Saving money with a museum pass SchauLUST Museen Berlin is a money-saving three-day museum pass that gets you into 70 top Berlin museums and collections for 15€ ($19) adults. including the museums on Museum Island in . just a few S-Bahn stops from central Berlin. Charlottenburg Palace also has museums. the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (with contemporary art). the new Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). The main museum areas in Berlin are as follows: ߜ Charlottenburg: Across from Charlottenburg Palace are two museums worth visiting: the Museum Berggruen (with Picassos).140 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Touring by neighborhood You can save a lot of time by clustering your museum and other sightseeing visits geographically. see Chapter 11). A day ticket to visit all the Dahlem museums costs 6€ ($7. “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z. ߜ Museum Island (Museumsinsel): Museum Island in eastern Berlin has four of the city’s oldest museums.50) seniors and children. and the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). ߜ Tiergarten: In or near the Tiergarten. the adjoining Kunstgewerbe (with applied and decorative arts). All the state museums operated by Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (www. Gendarmenmarkt. Berlin’s great city park.50). you find the BauhausArchiv. A day ticket to visit all four museums on Museum Island costs 10€ ($13). and the newly reopened Bode Museum (German and Italian sculpture and the Museum of Byzantine Art). you can also visit the new DDR Museum Berlin. the Brandenburg Gate.

% 030/2090-5801. which looks like a Corinthian temple and contains a collection of 19th-century painting and sculpture. 4€ ($5) children. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. pottery. Berlin-Mitte’s famous collection of Egyptian antiquities was housed in western Berlin until 2005. pronounced mao-er) are left. Other collection highlights include the small. Monet. (Thurs until 10 p. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Altes Museum (Egyptian Museum and Collection of Classical Antiquities) Museum Island. A free audio tour in English is available. Give yourself at least an hour just for the highlights of this rich collection. and objects of gold and silver. dating from around 1340 B. Open: Daily 10 a. sits behind the Altes Museum on Museumsinsel.m. in the Kulturforum. including works by van Gogh.m.smb. Am Lustgarten. . www. Manet. 4€ ($5) children. Mitte The Alte Nationalgalerie. you’ll find enough here to make you linger for at least an hour. By 1990. four hours before closing. when it was moved to the second floor of the beautifully restored Altes Museum on Museum Island in eastern Berlin. and Cézanne. 147. Museumsinsel. expressive head of Queen Tiy and the world-famous head of a priest in green stone. and at Charlottenburg Palace. and Etruscan classical antiquities.–6 p.m. Children 16 and under are always admitted free of charge.m. 147. Mitte Museum Island. is found on the first floor.).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 141 Berlin Mitte.C.m. One of the highlights here is the unique portraits of Caesar and Cleopatra. See map p.m. Only two portions of the wall (Mauer in German. free Thurs 6–10 p. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m. If you’re interested in Egyptian antiquities. the free audio tour will help you navigate. including sculpture. The greatest treasure of the Egyptian Museum is the famous and fabulous bust of Queen Nefertiti. % 030/266-3660. You’ll need at least two hours to cover the basics. but the fragments that remain are grimly essential pieces of Berlin’s tumultuous history.) Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) Museum Island. See map p. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. free Thurs 2–6 p. Berlin Wall Mitte The wall that separated Berlin and Germany from 1961 to 1989 is no more.m.–6 p. most of the concrete barrier that divided this city into two political entities had been razed. Bodestrasse 1–3. are open free to the public on Thursdays. Roman. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). A superlative collection of Greek. (Thurs until 10 p.

built into one of the guardhouses. The mirrorlike stainless steel surfaces of the memorial have slits through which visitors can peer. 4€ ($5) children. you saw this historic monument.–6 p. French. Museum of Byzantine Art) Museumsinsel. Dutch. 147. and a documentation center with photographs and a history of the wall. See map p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Here you’ll find a rich collection of German. The museum also contains galleries with late-antique and Byzantine works and a major coin collection. East Side Gallery: Mühlenstrasse along the Spree River. visitors still gather to meditate and reflect on Germany’s past. a fourhorse copper chariot drawn by the goddess Victoria.m. bronze) from the Gothic to the neoclassical periods.m.m. saw the gate used as a symbolic gathering place. give yourself at least a full hour just to graze the highlights. U-/S-Bahn: Warschauer Strasse. in every news clip. See map p.142 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The East Side Gallery is a half-mile-long section on Mühlenstrasse on the banks of the Spree River in the former East Berlin. A plaque reads: “In memory of the division of the city from 13 August 1961 to 9 November 1989. and Italian sculpture (marble. Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) Mitte If you watched the televised fall of the Communist German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1989. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. When the wall came down. wood. a chapel of reconciliation. Mitte Closed in 1999 for a complete refurbishment.). such as those in 1989. Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer: between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse.–6 p. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse. www. Monbijoubrücke. The free audio guide will help you navigate your way through the galleries. A neoclassical triumphal arch completed in 1791.m. . 147.smb.m. An international group of artists painted murals on this section in 1990. the newly modernized BodeMuseum anchoring the north end of Museum Island reopened its doors in October 2006. Bode-Museum (Sculpture Collection. The revolutionary events of 1848 and 1918. The other remaining section of the wall. the gate is crowned by the famous Quadriga. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt (then a 5-minute walk west along the S-Bahn tracks to the Monbijou bridge which leads to the museum). % 030/266-3666. The memorial consists of two walls that include fragments of the original wall (much of which was bulldozed away or carried off by souvenir hunters).m. one of Berlin’s most potent symbols. free Thurs 2–6 p. (Thurs until 10 known as the Gedenkstätte und Dokumentationszentrum Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial and Documentation Center) lies between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse.).” This place is the only one in Berlin where you still can see a complete border area. hundreds of thousands of East Germans walked freely through the gate into West Berlin for the first time since 1961. In the Room of Silence (open daily 11 a.

GARTEN bergplatz 6 für Gestaltung 7 Botanischer linburger Str. S tro m st r . steg BELLEVUE St Kongresshalle/ brücke Lüne b u r g e r S e e Haus der Kulturen Reichstag p r der Welt HANSAS Platz der 16 MarschallRepublik brücke VIERTEL Schloss WullenweberLutherD u l l e r s A l l ee Al Scheidemannstr. Str h il Sc Uhlandstr. nst r. OPER Bismarck U Potsdamer Platz 14 U ERNSTReichstag 16 REUTER. Juni os se T I E R G A R T E N e rS ter na Neuer lle str. fürs lstr Niebuhr- S Kur . 11 Hey R 7 owufer eic h p ietschufer Lütz berger Ufe Schöne r taler Str. te steg s Bellevue brücke t o -F U ona Englischer n Brandenburger h o Pariser J HANSA. NOLLENDORF- GLEIS- U tr. n Str es i ZOOLOGISCHER Harden. platz üle Str.Grünewald steg Röntgen-10 Gemäldegalerie brücke Hamburger Bahnhof DoveMuseum für brücke ARD. März M rz S ni Ju . r 9 10 Leibnizstr. Kantstr S U POTSDAMER PLATZ MarleneDietrichPlatz a em nn S ZOOLOGISCHER U GARTEN 13 str . Nü rn PLATZ Post office str. U U-Bahn i Information amm i Church rstend Kurfü WITTENBERGr PLATZ de i An r a n KaDeWe U U Leibniz. Ca Str. Joachims- ten str. U S U Bauhaus–Archiv Museum hauser Str. 13 Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium 6.Gegenwart 17 CHARDAGNERNERATZ Z Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche 5 Ot toKäthe-Kollwitz-Museum 4 Suh rKunstgewerbemuseum 9 All ee Kurfürstendamm (Ku-Damm) 3 Neue Nationalgalerie 11 DEUTSCHE str. tzenburger 4 U AUGSBURGER STR. str llerSchi The Story of Berlin 2 PLATZ Tiergarten 8 Goethe. Do str S Garten Tor 15 eg tr. Po ts U UHLANDSTR. SAVIGNY- Kantstr. tr.25 km brücke str. U KURFÜRSTENSTR STR. rS Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin r m dam 5 Tau i en nt zi rste U KURFÜRSTENü f en r u DAMM str 3 K . ENAUERADENAUERATZ PLATZ Lie Str. Juni ue 8 Strasse de Gr alle 17. Budap e ster . g Stein. S nst 17 lide HAUPTBAHNHOF nva I LEHRTER BAHNHOF LessingWashingtonAltTIERGARTEN brücke Moabit platz Kronprinzenbrücke Moabiter Le Moltkeve Brücke tzo brücke ws Gericketr. uer Le S p r e e ss in g- Paulstr .TURMSTR. 17 s Strasse de Grosser Be llev TIERGARTEN S Stern s 17. 0 Gotzkowsky0. Topographie des Terrors Pestal ozzistr.S S-Bahn str. e See Len né tungsEntlas TECHNISCHE ane Fas Krumme rstr. be St Tiergartenstr. er Pot sda m Sony PotsCenter damer Leipziger 12 14Platz Platz Ebertstr. tr. ommsen. eh r ka e rd Ha Str.str. Strasse des Ba st r. Garten 1 Brandenburger Tor 15 Filmmuseum Berlin 12 Siemens. str. HansaTo Berlin-Mitte r. a llee Hofjägera w nd öferKlingelh str. fürs . Marchbrücke L ch str . hö S S Sc ANHALTER Kleis tstr. Schlüterstr.str. Lützowtzowplatz Lütz ows MENDELSSOHNBARTHOLDY-PARK U r ge Einemst da be 143 BAHNHOF Tiergarten-Area Attractions r be ne tr. -derVon dt -Str. Kur r. na l UNIVERSITÄT r.str. rge a me 1 2 tens tr. Kleiner Tiergarten Alt-Mo abit 0 1/4 mi N Luisenstr. PLATZ ew Platz des re Platz p 18.

Gendarmenmarkt Mitte Twin churches inspired by Rome’s Piazza del Popolo flank this monumentally graceful baroque square — one of the most beautiful architectural ensembles in Berlin. % 030/2090-5555. 143. Facing this church like a mirror image on the south side is the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral. the Gendarmenmarkt had been reduced to a pile of smoldering rubble and remained in ruins until 1977.). Admission: Free. % 030/22730431. which had its guardhouse and stables here from 1738 to 1782. including Raphael’s Virgin and Child with the Infant St. for concert information. free Thurs 6–10 p. % 030/802-8146. Matthäiskirchplatz. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse and Margaretenstrasse). U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Taubenstrasse).m. Looking at the square today.–6 p. completed in 1821. Surrounding the square is a bevy of chic new restaurants.). when East Berlin finally began its reconstruction.m. The gallery contains one of the world’s largest collections of Rembrandts. The centerpiece of the square is Friedrich Schinkel’s beautiful neoclassical Schauspielhaus.). built for the influx of French Huguenots (Protestants) who settled in Berlin after being forced to flee Catholic France in 1685. John and Bronzino’s Portrait of Ugolino Martelli. 4€ ($5) children. The square was named for the Gens d’Armes regiment.m. See map p. 143.–6 p. On the north side of the square is the Französicher Dom (French Cathedral. open Tues–Sun 10 a.. or Concert House. (Thurs until 10 p.m. it’s hard to imagine that by the end of World War II (WWII).” later in this chapter). half-hour organ concerts Tues and Fri at 12:30 p. Pariser Platz. Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) Kulturforum.m.m.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.m. or theater (now also called the Konzerthaus. . See map p. This is a huge collection and to see it in any depth you should give yourself at least two hours. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. open Tues–Sun noon to 5 p. Tiergarten The Gemäldegalerie houses Berlin’s greatest collection of European painting. 147. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you see the gate to the west). with an emphasis on medieval German and Dutch art and 16th-century Italian and 17th-century Dutch painting. Several Italian masterpieces are on display.144 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. see “Raising the curtain on performing arts and music.

Str. h. Wagner. platz Ot toBrauhofstr. helst r. e Sp re Schloss- Weg Sömmeringstr. platz PLATZ U aim. bb Thrasoltzeile Str. rsdorfe W i n dscheids t r. F r i e dr i c h - Richard- Gierke- Danckelman n- dorfer r. Mausoleum Taur ogge ner S en tr. str. h i e -C harl o Kam ntte Hersc Belvedere mine .Str.St Fritschestr . St s rp S u f ertstr. Gardes-du-Co Luisen. Su hrStallstr. Nehringstr. s tr Horstweg un Horstweg SophieCharlottePlatz U SOPHIECHARLOTTEPLATZ Kaiserdamm W Bismarckstr.B e re Sp rüc ke Olbers- . Karpfenteich ener Str. Beh SchustehrusPark Haubachstr. U S-Bahn U-Bahn N CHARLOTTENBURG LiseM e itner. Kaiser. Ste san ifendst r. 100 Christ- str.25 km 1/4 mi Kantstr. Wilmers- Sophie-C harlotte n-Str. o lf. 100 isse ll . Mierendorffplatz Sop Keple rstr. str. WILMERSDORFER STR. BISMARCKSTRASSE dt - U str . U KAISERDAMM Schiller- str. He Knobelsdorff str. Rieh l s tr . . els str.Str. r Str. Kaise r- str. Schlossbrücke Charlottenburg M SCHLOSSGARTEN ier Caprivier U brücke f er Wintersteinstr.W Bra Te g e l e r Bröhan Museum 3 Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit 2 Schloss Charlottenburg 1 CHARLOTTENBURG Schinkel Pavilion 1 mm Spandauer Da 2 Klausener3 platz WESTEND Ne r.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 145 Charlottenburg Attractions s t r. W W un Li MESSE NORD/ S ICC . Schustehrus- Seeling- str. Neue Christstr. r Str he- Osna Mind brück er Str MIERENDORFFPLATZ U . 0 0 0. Spielhagens tr. str.Friedric en leb itz atz W pl Wilme Fritschestr.str. Loh- tr. str dt LIETZENSEEPARK e n s e ze et en Sua rezs tr. Wulfsheinstr. All ee me ye rNithack- str . Zille. do rff str . RICHARDGierkeWAGNERstr. Post office S U Neue Kantstr.Eosanders tr. Str R ud str. itz Goethepark leb Pestalozzi- str.

works of Jewish artists. 10€ ($13) family ticket (2 adults. Closed on Jewish holy days.m. 143.–8 p. Invalidenstrasse 50–51.m. Items on display include ceremonial objects. including the high roof designed for steam engines.juedisches-museumberlin.m. This museum has plenty to see. the oldest train station in Berlin.m. portraits of prominent Jewish figures. Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) Kreuzberg One of the most talked-about museums in Europe is located in Kreuzberg. The building still retains traces of its former use. 4€ ($5) children. free Thurs 2–6 p. Built to commemorate the 1871 establishment of the German Empire. Free organ concerts take place there every Saturday year-round at 6 p. the building is shaped like a stretched-out Star of David and houses Europe’s largest Jewish museum.. and memorabilia. % 030/2599-3300.25) adults.50€ ($3. and the ruined shell was preserved as a symbol of the ravages of war.75) students and children.–6 p. just south of Berlin-Mitte. The small modern church beside the Gedächtniskirche is an octagonal hall designed by Egon Eierman in 1961. and Roy Lichtenstein together with changing exhibitions. www. Open: Daily 10 a. Robert Rauschenberg. Lindenstrasse 9–14. Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Emperor William Memorial Church) Charlottenburg One of Berlin’s most famous landmarks. (Mon until 10 p.146 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) Tiergarten This showcase of contemporary art opened in 1996 in the 19th-century Hamburger Bahnhof.–8 p.m. The modern art on display dates from the second half of the 20th century and includes everything from Andy Warhol’s now legendary Mao to an audiovisual Joseph Beuys archive. Sat 11 a. See map p. % 030/397-83439. historical objects. . S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk northeast on Invalidenstrasse). photos. the Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church) is a ponderous neo-Romanesque structure from the late 19th century. 2. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor (then a 5-minute walk east on Gitschiner Strasse and north on Lindenstrasse). the church later was blasted by a bomb in WWII. I recommend that you give yourself at least two hours. Designed by American architect Daniel Libeskind. You probably won’t want to spend more than a few minutes inside. 147.m.m. Admission: 5€ ($6. You can see everything in about an hour. You also find a major collection of works by Cy Twombly. See map p. 2 children). Open: Tues–Fri and Sun 10 a. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.m. You follow a chronological pathway occasionally interrupted by deliberately disorienting memorial spaces.m.

r. Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Friedrichstr. tstr rech Alb Tuch olsk yst St fer Kup Oberwall- r. tr. sst Mittel9 Alexanderplatz 16 au Scheidemannstr. Luisen- str. r tr. März r S t r. N e u e str. r t s W l l a U U Bel Voss. Sp an da r ue r. AlexanderR M Berlin Wall oab platz S l. u u r ba e st FRIEDRICH. p r e Französische 5 e Holocaust Nikolaiviertel 6 Jägerstr. W Schwules Museum 12 U N alle K str. erstr. grafen- tr. an st r . str. r b Ale t 0 0. t s HEINE-STR. gra b en str. r.U . Glinka- da mm Charlotten- Gr un er Universitätsst Friedrichstr. Moh MÄRKISCHES str. St M üh e eit Br l en Ebertstr. ied e TaubenUnter den Linden 1 erw urstr Rungestr. TIERGARTEN U 2 Be Memorial HAUSVOGTEIllev GendarmenPergamon Museum 13 (under FRANZÖSISCHE s l PLATZ ue l a construction) markt STR. PLATZ o e m a d m s t U Po ma S . all str U ren. Berlin Wall . . 3 4 rstr. MUSEUMSAlle e th KLOSTERSTR. it (Gedenkstätte Kronprinzenpark platz “Berliner Mauer”) 15 r. Mau t r. M S (Museum Island) 10 Str. rst ue Ma xelSp ring Charlottens A LEHRTER BAHNHOF Mü Alte Nationalgalerie 12 0 1/4 mi nzs 16 15 S tr. Str elms e str. tr. UNTER DEN a 6 R INSEL Gendarmenmarkt 2 LINDEN Brandenburger U NIKOLAIden Lin Jüdisches Museum 4 SchlossS 1 n Tor de BebelVIERTEL Unter St platz Pariser Platz des platz Mauermuseum Haus am r s a de la u e Platz Strasse 18.str. - kn e ch t-S tr. m se tr. . i atha 7 S c h if f r e Museum 7 de GeorgenPaul-Löbe-Allee STRASSE rleDDR Bo R . MarleneZimmerstr. str. Platz K S S-Bahn r Str. Rathaus str. str. 147 Berlin-Mitte Attractions er KOCHSTR. ns tr. str. r. lev SPITTELMARKT Leipziger ues Jak o b HEINRICH. Museum of Museum n . Friedrichstr. Ora Altes Museum 11 nie N n b u r g e r S tr . MOHRENSTR. Fernsehturm am der Welt r. m k str r da e S 13 12 ieb Byzantine Art) 14 s e 17 L . ri r ALEXANDERMa BerlinerMoltkeDom 8 St S PLATZ 14 brücke (Sculpture Bode Museum Pergamon ht U ec Fernsehturm m Collection. Jerusalemer Ge r tr au d elms Wilh en str . . Mark- Str. S p Ka Deutsches Historisches 11 str Haus der 10 8 Platz der Museum 9 Reichstag Kulturen LustRepublik garten Dorotheenstr.25 km s Dirck HACKESCHER xa Lie s en (East Side Gallery) 5 tnd MARKT Washington.HAUPTBAHNHOF r.str hard er p in K Monbijoue . n St Leipziger Post Office e Leipziger POTSDAMER Krausenstr. U STADTMITTE KronenMUSEUM L e n né . -KolmarGertrud Str. Str. DietrichNiederkirchne Platz Kochstr. brücke st n e . er-S Wilh ak ob str . nd U U-Bahn J Schützenstr an Potsdamer te ten Al Platz i Information Zimmerstr. Juni er i r s ch Museumsinsel W erd e arkt Behrenstr.U str. Checkpoint Charlie 3 17.

See map on p.mauermuseum. the Ku-Damm was the most brilliant. From the start of the 20th century until WWII.–7 p. Located near what once was Checkpoint Charlie. and attempted escape devices (chairlifts. the most frequently used traffic crossing into East Berlin. new church daily 9 a. 147. and two bitter and brilliant oils by . an enormous expanse of glass windows and simple symmetry. even a minisub) used by East Germans may give you a new take on the meaning of freedom. the museum documents the wall’s history from its construction in 1961 to its fall in 1989 to 1990.m. and people-watch. The photographs. 143. % 030/253-7250. and Frank Stella. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse (then a 5-minute walk north on Friedrichstrasse). Admission: Free. 143. built in 1542 for the Prince-Electors (Kurfürsten) to reach their hunting lodge in the Grünewald more easily. Admission: 9. www.50€ ($12) adults. For years the Ku-Damm hogged all the city’s glamour because dreary East Berlin had nothing to rival it.75€ ($6) children and students.148 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map on p. contains a small but impressive collection of international 20th-century painting and sculpture. % 030/218-5023. 4. Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery) Kulturforum. mid-20th-century German artists Max Beckmann. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk south on Budapester Strasse). including works by de Chirico. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (you are on the Ku-Damm when you exit the station). and Otto Dix. Dalí. Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Wall Museum at Checkpoint Charlie) Kreuzberg If you’re interested in the history of the Berlin Wall.m. and elegant street in this part of Berlin.. Mark Rothko. Kurfürstendamm at Breitscheidplatz. Tiergarten The only “old” structure in the aggressively modern Kulturforum complex is the New National Gallery. newspaper clippings. hot-air balloons. designed in 1968 by famed German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. this small museum in Kreuzberg is well worth an hour of your time.–4 p. filled with legendary cafes and renowned for its nightlife.–10 p. Friedrichstrasse 43–45. com.m. Kurfürstendamm Tiergarten The famous boulevard known as the Ku-Damm is western Berlin’s answer to Paris’s Champs-Elysées.m. Of special interest are the paintings by early. Open: Memorial church Mon–Sat 10 a. Open: Daily 9 a.m. Today’s busy commercial artery began as nothing more than a humble log road. It’s currently going through a rebuilding phase to spruce itself up and lure people back from eastern Berlin. sit. The museum. false passports. Miró. Max Ernst. lively. The street still is a wonderful place to shop. See map p.

147.m. See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk south on Potsdamer Strasse). In 1961. a Roman building facade from the time of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (around A. the renowned Pergamon Museum is the one must-see (along with the bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti in the Altes Museum). 4€ ($5) children and students. Potsdamer Platz is a brand-new. one of the most popular in the city. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to the Museum Island). 143.m. (Thurs until 10 p. and the Tiergarten. Around newly created Marlene-Dietrich-Platz. you find the Stella Musical Theater. and cafes invite you to shop and relax.).m. Pergamon Museum Museum Island. Another showpiece is the ornate two-storied Market Gate of Miletus.). 143. where 140 stores.). the Berlin Casino. the Madison City Suites. 165).–6 p. The Near East Museum in the museum’s south wing contains one of the largest collections anywhere of antiquities from ancient Babylonia. you’ll understand why. Today. Mitte Of all the museums on Museum Island. When you see its grim facade. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (you are on Potsdamer Platz as you exit the station). . Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. and the Cine-Max cinema center. 4€ ($5) students and children.D. stroll along the Potsdamer Platz Arcades. and Assyria. supermodern showcase of corporate glitz. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. restaurants. Am Kupfergraben. corporations like Sony and Mercedes-Benz rushed in and bought the entire area. (Thurs until 10 p.. free admission Thurs 6–10 p. % 030/266-2951. Potsdamer Strasse 50. which has two movie theaters and a viewing area from which you can look out over the Philharmonie. See map on p. will undergo an internal and external face-lift (costing 351€ million /$ 420 million) starting in 2011. dating from 180 to 160 B.–6 p. The entire museum. the Kulturforum.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 149 George Grosz that capture the decadent despair of the Weimar years in the 1920s. And what you must see is the Pergamon Altar.m. upscale housing. To experience the area. See map p. free Thurs 6–10 p. the Grand Hyatt Hotel. One of the most visited attractions is the Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz (% 030/2094-5400). Potsdamer Platz was the busiest spot in Berlin. After reunification. the square was cut off from the western sector by the wall and became an ugly strip of mined no-man’s-land. considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and still holding its own today.m.m. % 030/2090-5577. Sat–Sun 11 a.–6 p.m. Potsdamer Platz Tiergarten Before WWII. and entertainment.m. the altar was discovered in 1876 in western Turkey. The gallery also is used for special traveling exhibitions. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. Persia.C. Part of the enormous Temple of Zeus and Athena.m. government offices. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.

m. I recommend that you arrive as early as possible. Open: Dome daily 8 a. you may have to stand in line for up to three hours before getting in. See map p. The domed neo-baroque Bode Museum at the far northern end of the island and the Altes Museum with its Egyptian and classical antiquities collections reopened in 2005 and 2006 respectively after extensive interior modernization. blaming the fire on the Communists. Today. Its present form dates from 1790. The buildings. a new glass dome designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster crowns the building.150 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Museumsinsel (Museum Island): Art by decree Five museums on an island in the River Spree form the oldest museum complex in Berlin and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. so I don’t include it in this guide. gets a much-needed makeover. The museums were the main attractions in old East Berlin. where a sweeping vista of Berlin opens out before you. some dating back to the early and mid 19th century. After a security check. used the incident as an opportunity to seize power. Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) Charlottenburg The oldest section of this lovely. The dome also has an outdoor observation area and a rooftop restaurant with so-so food (reservations % 030/226-2990). otherwise. too.–10 p. Built in a pompous high-Renaissance style between 1884 and 1894. a complicated process of restoring the buildings and reuniting various collections from the East and West began. Reichstag (House of Parliament) Tiergarten The Reichstag is the seat of the reunified German Parliament. The Neues Museum is closed until 2008. who. will close in 2011 for several years while it. the street that follows the river). and Cultural Organization. one of the most popular museums in Berlin. but the other four museums are definitely worth exploring. 143. Platz der Republik. . UNESCO is the United Nations Educational. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the first to reopen its doors after undergoing post-reunification refurbishment. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west along the Reichstagufer. Much of the palace was destroyed in WWII and painstakingly reconstructed.m. you take an elevator up to the dome. the wife of Friedrich I. % 030/2273-2131. Scientific. After reunification. The massive Pergamon Museum. the building was partially destroyed by a fire in 1933 that probably was set by the Nazis. yellow baroque palace was built in 1695 as a breezy summer abode for Sophie Charlotte. were constructed after Frederick William III issued a decree stipulating that the privately owned artwork of the royal family needed to be made accessible to the public. Admission: Free. Allied bombs destroyed part of the Reichstag in WWII.

See map p. much of it from the 1700s.). The Museum für Vor. U-Bahn: SophieCharlotte-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Schlossstrasse). The Berlin Zoo. This former royal teahouse contains exquisite Berlin porcelain. “animal garden”) covers almost 2.–5 p. and Schlossgarten 8€ ($10) adults. an Italianate summer house designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. (Tiergarten also is the name of Berlin’s smallest neighborhood. ponds. in the Langhansbau wing. km (1 sq. 3€ ($ 3.m. and the beautifully landscaped Schlossgarten (palace gardens). you find the charming Schinkel Pavilion. a residential area where architects were invited to build projects in the 1950s.und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History). which is described in the “Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium)” listing later in this chapter. and pretty Schloss (Palace) Bellevue (S-Bahn: Bellevue). and flower beds restored to their original patterns.m. Tiergarten Tiergarten The popular Tiergarten (literally. give yourself a couple of hours.) With its lawns. and more than 23km (14 miles) of meandering paths. the Tiergarten park is a great place to stroll and relax. canals. is the most famous of the Tiergarten’s . displays the famous Schliemann collection of antiquities from Troy. which is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. Open: Palace and museums Tues–Sun 9 a. the residence of Germany’s president. and the royal chapel. to 5 p. The tour is given only in German (you can buy an English-language guidebook at the ticket counter) and includes the historical rooms. the leading architect of the day.50) adults. Galerie der Romantik. Admission: Combination ticket for historical rooms. In the Schlossgarten. With a combined ticket. is the Belvedere. Romantic. At the far end of the Schlossgarten. You must pay a separate admission of 6€ ($ 7. you can. Luisenplatz. occupies the park’s southwestern corner. In the northwestern corner. a golden goddess of victory perched high atop a red-granite pedestal. the eye-catching porcelain room.25) children. It was originally was laid out by Peter Josef Lenné. The Siegessäule (Victory Column). additionally visit the Galerie der Romantik. you find the Hansaviertel (Hansa Quarter). and to take that tour you have to don huge felt slippers (so you’re effectively polishing the wood floors as you slide around after the guide). www.m. % 0331/969-4202. The park was devastated during and just after WWII. (last tour at 5 p. 5€ ($6. on your own.m. mile) and is the most popular green space in central Berlin. when desperate citizens chopped down the trees for fuel.m. as a private park for the electors of Prussia. the living quarters of Friedrich I and Sophie Charlotte. leafy trees. and Biedermeier periods.75) children for this museum. with its fine collection of paintings from the neoclassical.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 151 You can see the palace only on a tour. you need at least four to five hours. To see the palace and museums.spsg. Beginning in 1955. If you just want to stroll.5 sq. one of the great landscape architects of the early 19th century. close to the Spree River. trees were replanted and walkways. in 1825.

with more than 550 species of birds. a wide boulevard that bisects the Tiergarten and is the western extension of Unter den Linden. houses the Deutsches Museum (see the later section on “Finding more cool things to see and do”).m. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or Hansaplatz. Unter den Linden Mitte Laid out in 1647 and extending a bit more than a kilometer (3⁄4 mile) east from the Brandenburg Gate.” came from the linden trees that were originally planted along the street. free for children younger than 12. with several monumental buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. The giant Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral. insects. 143.aquarium-berlin. Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium) Tiergarten Founded in 1844. many of them in open habitats.m. and Potsdamer Platz. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you are on the avenue as you exit the station). on the east by Berlin-Mitte. Following reunification. Bus: 100. the historically significant buildings along Unter den Linden were spruced up and the avenue filled up with souvenir shops. This boulevard is the oldest and royalest in central Berlin. Hardenbergplatz 8. The column stands in the center of the Strasse des 17 Juni. 5. 143. 147.m.000 animals live here. Germany’s oldest and Europe’s largest zoo occupies almost the entire southwest corner of the Tiergarten.zoo-berlin.m.) observation platform. % 030/25-40-10.) squats at the end of Unter den Linden. reptiles. reached by climbing up a 290-step spiral staircase. Bounded on the west by Bahnhof Zoo and the Europa Center. The hippoquarium is a new attraction. The name. Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s most famous and historically significant streets. More than 13. is also located here.50€ . www. and other creatures. Admission is 1€ ($ 1. The Zeughaus (Armory). The column’s 48m-high (157-ft. Admission: Zoo 11€ ($14) adults. luxury car showrooms. the oldest of Berlin’s three opera houses. With kids in tow you can easily spend half a day in the zoo and aquarium. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (the entrance is a 3-minute walk east on Budapester Strasse).–8 p. S-Bahn: Tiergarten or Bellevue. www.152 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany many monuments. and cafes. See map p. which means “under the lindens.25) for adults. to 6:30 p. Friedrich Schinkel’s 1818 Neue Wache (New Watch) served as headquarters for the King’s Guard and now contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Tomb of the Unknown Resistance Fighter. See map p. The most popular residents are the giant pandas.000 fish. open daily 9 a. The zoo also has a modern aviary. amphibians. the Brandenburg Gate. is open daily from 9:30 a. See map p. Berlin’s largest baroque building and the first (1706) major building to be constructed on Unter den Linden. The aquarium is home to more than

offers an interesting.). www.50€ ($3) for children. completed in 1979. brohan-museum. Schlossstrasse 1A (% 030/3269-0600.m. near the Tiergarten.m.m. Königin-LuiseStrasse 6–8 (% 030/8385-0100. www.ddr-museum.. U-Bahn: Dahlem–Dorf). houses one of the world’s finest collections of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and Art Deco furniture. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 at Weimar.. to 5 p.–6:30 p. design. all from 1889 to 1939.m.m.m. glass. including a garden for blind visitors and another with water plants. . which sought to combine art. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). combined ticket 17€ ($25) adults. and technology.–6 p. www. S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten. English-language texts and audio guides describing the exhibits are available.m. The garden is open daily from 9 a. and crafts. Admission is 5€ ($6. Admission is 5€ ($6. a completely decorated set of rooms from a luxurious private residence of the 1920s and 8.25). ߜ The Bröhan Museum. A small botanical museum (open daily 10 a. Give yourself an hour or so to stroll through the garden itself. Admission is 7€ ($9) 12: Exploring Berlin 153 ($7) children. Finding more cool things to see and do Berlin is full of museums.m. to 6 p. Open: Zoo Mar 15–Oct 14 daily 9 a. 2. silverware. www. You need at least an hour to peruse the exhibits.m. contains vast collections of European and exotic plants. gardens and many other places to visit — you won’t be lacking of things to do.m. to dusk. of more interest to dedicated gardeners than the general public. The museum. before the Nazis forced the school to disband in 1933. free for children 12 and younger. free on first Wednesday of every month. is one of the last works of the great Berlin-born architect Walter Gropius. The museum is small enough that you can see everything in an hour. You also find an extensive arboretum and several special collections. ߜ The Bauhaus–Archiv Museum für Gestaltung (BauhausDesign Museum). Hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. painting. ߜ Berlin’s Botanischer Garten (Botanical Garden). sculpture. de. located near the Dahlem Museums on the outskirts of Berlin. is open Wednesday through Monday from 10 a.25) for adults.50€ ($) children.–5 p. is dedicated to the Bauhaus school. Klingelhöferstrasse 14 (% 030/254-0020. ߜ The DDR Museum. aquarium 11€ ($14) adults.botanischer-gartenberlin. 5.m. hands-on experience of everyday life in the Communist DDR (Deutsche Democratische Republik. The Palm House is one of the largest in the world. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). Here are additional places that you may find of interest.–6 p.m. aquarium year-round daily 9 a.m. Oct 15–Mar 14 daily 9 a. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). A must-see is the Suite Emile-Jacques Ruhlman. is also on the premises. 4€ ($5) children younger than 12. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1 (% 030/€ ($7) children. The museum. moved to Dessau. Berlin newest new museum. and finally settled in Berlin.

). is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. You need at least an hour here.m.000 years of German history in pictures and documents. located on the Spreepromenade directly opposite the Berlin Cathedral. Havelchausee. too. and daily November through February from 10 a.berliner fernsehturm. it’s a sobering experience. ߜ The Filmmuseum Berlin.m.dhm. Like many German museums. One wing is devoted to the legendary Marlene Dietrich. in English) before the fall of the wall in 1989. to midnight. the forest’s western border. explore a typical DDR living room. The tower is open daily March through October from 9 a. The rooms are set up chronologically.m. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt).50) for children under 16. (Thurs until 8 p. appeals to anyone who has an interest in German film or film in general. The fascinating Marlene memorabilia includes photos.m. I would recommend that you visit the first-floor galleries devoted to World War and documents.25).m.154 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany called the GDR. props.-mile) forest that begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfü (15-sq. The elevator to the top costs 8€ ($10) for adults and 3.m. Visitors can sit in a Trabi. is a new museum housed in the old Zeughaus (Armory). www. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). to 6 p. Panoramastrasse 1a. to 6 p. Admission is 6€ ($7. costumes.m. www.50) for adults. or German Democratic Republic. Berliners call it “the speared onion” because of its shape. You find a revolving restaurant (the Telecafe) up there. and rummage through drawers and closets.75) for students. The museum is open daily from 10 a.) Admission is 5€ ($6.m. a native Berliner who catapulted to international fame in 1930 in Josef von Sternberg’s Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel) and went on to become Germany’s only major star in Hollywood. this one is exhaustive and can be exhausting because it attempts to cover 2. the forest stretches some 10km (6 miles) south to the popular Wannsee lake. while the eastern border is roughly marked off by four lakes: .m. The museum. admission is 4€ ($5). the DDR’s version of a car. and 3€ ($3. From Heerstrasse.filmmuseum-berlin. letters. open doors. There’s a kind of heartfelt.m. to 8 Unter den Linden 2 (% 030/20304-444.50€ ($4. to midnight. ߜ The Fernsehturm am Alexanderplatz (Television Tower). www. ߜ The Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). nostalgic charm to many of the exhibits. Personally. a 39-sq. Sony Center in Potsdamerstrasse 2 (% 030/300-9030. ߜ The Grünewald (S-Bahn: Grünewald). is open daily from 10 a.. An elevator whisks you up to the top for a stunning panorama. The entire history of German cinema is documented in rare film clips from the silent era up to the present. (Sat until 10 p. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. winds past several picturesque bays and beaches along the Havel River. is a weird-looking television tower built by the Communists back in the 1960s. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). Alexanderplatz (% 030/242-3333.

lesbian and gay life has centered around Nollendorfplatz (U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). Schlachtensee.. stocks a vast array of new and rare fiction. open daily from 10 a.m. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Admission is 5€ ($6. one of the world’s oldest gay and lesbian bookstores. nonfiction. The center is open Monday through Friday from 5 to 9 p.m. in the heart of what has been for decades the gay heart of Berlin.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 155 Gay and lesbian Berlin Berlin has a century-old gay and lesbian history. Den Homosexuellen Opfern des National Socialismus (Killed and Forgotten. is devoted to the powerful works of Berlinborn artist Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945).. Grünewaldsee. ߜ The Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum. In the eastern part of the city. In mid-June. S-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). see “Checking out the dance clubs and bars. The Christopher Street Day parade is an even larger citywide gay event that takes place the last week in June. The gay scene is more international in the area around Nollendorfplatz.25). Nollendorfplatz is the site of the Lesbisch-Schwules Stadtfest (LesbianGay Street Fair). U-Bahn: Mehringdamm). Saturday until 5 p. The staff is knowledgeable and helpful. The city’s gay information center is Mann-oMeter. and the city remains a mecca for international gay and lesbian travelers.prinz-eisenherz. www.000 people congregate for this Gay Pride festival.” later in this chapter.m. to 8 p. although on weekends you have plenty of company. and Schildhorn. The Homosexual Victims of National Socialism). A memorial plaque mounted on the outside south wall of the Nollendorfplatz subway and other political Berlin is the only city in the world with a gay museum. For my recommended gay and lesbian nightspots. Fasanenstrasse 24 (% 030/ Love Parade/Love Week in July attracts thousands to a huge gay party scene. which has had gay bars since the 1920s. Another good source for information is Eisenherz Buchladen. art books. Krumme More information on gay life in Berlin is available on the Web site www. Also see Chapter 9. the so-called Pink (or Gay) Village. Bülowstrasse 106 (% 030/216-3336. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). reads: Totgeschlagen-Totgeschiegen. Loaded with wooded paths and sandy beaches.m. www. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 2 to 6 p.mann-o-meter. Gypsies. is a large gallery-like space in Kreuzberg with changing exhibitions on gay life in Germany and around the world. Kreuzberg is another gay-friendly borough with a big selection of www. and other languages. English. up to 500. The Schwules Museum (Gay Museum). The store. and magazines in German. Mehringdamm 61 (% 030/6959-9050. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder that the Nazis exterminated thousands of homosexuals in addition to millions of Jews. Lietzenburger Strasse 9a (% 030/313-9936. Prenzlauer Berg has become the new gay area.schwulesmuseum. The first woman ever . the Grünewald (Green Forest) is a good place to get away from the urban jungle.

Saturday and Sunday 11 a. Nikolaikirchplatz. open from 10 a. Kollwitz resigned her position in 1933 to protest Hitler’s rise to power.m. The Guelph Treasure.m. the themed exhibits chronicle all the major historical events. the upper floors contain sculptures.m. and deprivations of wartime and have a stark. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 11 a. the church was restored in time for the city’s 750th anniversary in 1987. to 4:30 p. Admission is 5€ ($6. see earlier description). your ticket for the Gemäldegalerie will get you in. the Industrial Revolution.). The Nazis later banned her works. period taverns.m.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. You also find a nice cafeteria. You can see the collection in about half an hour. Ku’damm-Karree.25) for adults. and 3€ ($3. its most dazzling exhibit.156 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany elected to the Prussian Academy of the Arts. down narrow streets illuminated by gas lanterns. to 6 p. Braque. Reconstructed palaces. including the reign of Frederick the Great. to 6 p. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. photos.m. % 030/ 2472-4529. and old churches make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque ramble along the Spree River.–6 p. The basement rooms display contemporary design from the German Bauhaus school to American Charles Eames and the Memphis design group. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse). open Tues–Sun 10 a. Nicholas. U-/S-Bahn: Mendelssohn–Bartholdy–Park).m. 3€ ($3. adjoining the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery. ߜ Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter. the Nikolaikirche (Church of St. Beginning with the city’s founding in 1237. Kurfürstendamm 207–208 (% 030/8872-0100. Schlossstrasse 1 (% 030/3269-5819. WWII and its aftermath. Admission is 6€ ($7. Kulturforum (% 030/2090-5555. is an enjoyable multimedia museum that uses films.50) for adults. the Golden 1920s.75) for children and students.m. . displays applied arts and crafts from the Middle Ages through the present day. loss.m. sounds. is a collection of medieval church articles in gold and silver. is a historic riverside quarter restored to resemble its medieval and baroque heyday (with a few modern design touches). ߜ Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit (Berggruen Museum: Picasso and His Times). and colorful displays to tell about eight centuries of life in Berlin. Matthäiskirchplatz. to 6 p.m. grieving quality. Many of Kollwitz’s works express the sorrow. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). a small museum located across from the Egyptian Museum in Charlottenburg.75) for students and children. showcases several important paintings by Picasso and works by Klee. ߜ The Story of Berlin.m. and Giacometti. Matisse. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz).m. Admission is 8€ ($10) for adults. ߜ Kunstgewerbemuseum (Arts and Crafts Museum). to 6 p. The lower floors of the museum display woodcuts and lithographs. not far from the Gendarmenmarkt in Berlin Mitte. Named for Berlin’s oldest church. 4€ ($5) for children. the quarter was the last major reconstruction project of the German Democratic Party that ruled former East Germany..

m. Thursday. From November through March. which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and passes most of the major sites in western and eastern Berlin. Saturdays. The museum is open daily from 10 a.). (Nov–Mar until 3 p. offers a two-hour “City Circle Tour” that departs daily every half-hour from 10 a. The price is 37€ ($46) per person. The same company’s three-hour “Big Berlin Tour” departs at 10 and Sundays. From April through October. the cheapest bus tour of Berlin is public bus 100. At the end of the tour. The exhibit is open daily from 10 a. This attraction is a good overall introduction to Berlin that teens may enjoy. Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 (% 030/2548-6703. costs 22€ ($27) per person.m.50€ ($4. . to 8 p.m. is an open-air exhibit detailing how the Nazis came to power and the crimes against humanity they committed under the leadership of der Führer.m.m. Admission is free. to 6 p.). the Brandenburg Gate. You can get on and off the bus at any point during the hour. and covers more sites (and includes add-ons like Potsdam or a river cruise). U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). Severin+Kühn also conducts an interesting tour of Potsdam. 3. Tickets cost 20€ ($25) per person. Departures are Tuesday through Sunday at 10 a. Saturday. You can catch the double-decker bus in front of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). tour on Fridays. Bus tours Severin+Kühn. Admission is 9. on foot. May–Sept). Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour Taking a guided sightseeing tour (Stadtrundfahrt) can help you to see parts of this huge city that you may otherwise miss. and Sunday at 10 a. You can tour Germany’s capital with an experienced guide by bus. to 6 p.m. making them accessible and enjoyable for kids and adults.m. head upstairs to the front seats for the best views.m. Adolf Hitler. a guide takes you down to visit an underground nuclear bomb shelter built in the 1970s.m. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Severin+Kühn offers its Potsdam/Sanssouci tour on Tuesday. www. and the fall of the wall.50€ ($9) for students.30€ ($12) for adults. and Potsdamer Platz. Allow at least two hours to see everything.m. and 2 p.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 157 divided Berlin during the Cold War. or by boat.m.m. located in what once was part of the Nazi SS and Gestapo headquarters. site of the palace of Sanssouci. 7. and 21€ ($26) for families (2 adults..severinkuehn-berlin. All tours include a guide who delivers commentaries in German and English. daily. former residence of Frederick the Great (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). 2 children). Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. (until 8 p. The tour passes 14 important stops in Berlin. with an additional 2:15 p. including the Europa Center. Although you don’t get a guide. ߜ Topographie des Terrors (Topography of Terror). (last admission 6 p.50) for children.

“Discover Berlin” is a three-hour introductory tour that takes you past the Reichstag and the Brandenburg (Nov–Mar at 10 a. 10€ ($13) for those younger than “Infamous Third Reich Sites” focuses on the sites of major Nazi buildings in central Berlin. and the monumental heart of the former East Berlin. that all of its tours are given only in German (on most tours. For descriptions of most of the stops.m. “Jewish Life in Berlin” takes you through the prewar Jewish community. outside the main entrance to Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). among other major sites.m. and 2:30 p. on Sunday. free for children younger than 14.m. this tour. Boat tours A boat tour is the most unusual way to see portions of Berlin. though.158 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Walking tours For an excellent introduction to Berlin and its history. and you’ll find several landing docks with waiting boats. Following an Itinerary Every visitor to Berlin faces one problem: how to see as much as possible in a limited amount of time. Pushkinallee 60–70 (% 030/536-3600. 10 a. only). on Saturday. the one-hour “Inner City” trip (8€/$10) departing from Nikolaiviertel offers good views of the Reichstag. with an additional Wednesday 10 a. Stern. The same company offers other boat tours from Jannowitzbrücke in Berlin-Mitte Schlossbrücke near Charlottenburg Palace. starts at 2:30 p. You don’t need advance reservations for any of the tours. who wears a Berlin Walks badge.m. offers boat trips from April through October. limited-time suggestions that include the top Berlin sights.m. tour from April through September (Sat only at 1 p. www. try one of the English-language walking tours offered by Original Berlin Walks (% 030/ 301-9194.m. the Königliche Bibliothek (Royal Library). see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z” earlier in this chapter.und Kreisschiffahrt. you can request an English translation). Tours last from 21⁄2 to 3 hours and cost 12€ ($15) for adults.berlinwalks. Several other companies offer boat tours as well. www. in front of the taxi stand. This walk starts daily at 10 a. such as Goebbels’s Propaganda Ministry and Hitler’s New Reichschancellery.m. You meet the guide. Local waterways include the Spree and Havel rivers — ranging in size from narrow channels to large lakes — in addition to the many canals created in the 19th century.sternundkreis. just walk along the Spreepromenade behind the Berlin cathedral. the tour starts at 10 a. .m. or three days at your disposal? The itineraries in this section are common-sense. Nov–Mar). For a quick and interesting take on Berlin from the water. What do you see if you have only one. Mondays from March through September. the city’s best-known boat operator. the Pergamon Museum. and Hafen Treptow. two. Be aware. available March through October.

German porcelain. In the evening. and end with a stroll down Unter den Linden or the Kurfürstendamm. .m. First visit the Reichstag. If you have two days in Berlin On the second day. or a cabaret/variety show. Most stores in Berlin are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. exploring the nearby Gendarmenmarkt and paying a brief visit to the Pergamon Museum to see the Pergamon Altar and/or the Altes Museum to view the famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti. Saturday hours usually are from 9 or 10 a.” earlier). In the evening. often to 8:30 p. For the two major Trödelmarkts (flea markets).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 159 If you have one day in Berlin Start early. are prized for their quality. In the afternoon. Afterward.m. take a walking or bus tour of Berlin (see “Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour. and cutlery. both in the Kulturforum.m. a concert. Don’t expect a lot of “deals” in Berlin.m. see the “Berlin flea markets” sidebar. then walk down Unter den Linden. symbol of Berlin. stop in at Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. except on the sales racks in the department stores. enjoy an opera. where the new dome provides a marvelous view out over the city. and their prices are lower here than in the United States. crystal.m. china. Shopping for Local Treasures Berlin is a great shopping city and you can find just about anything you want. Many stay open late on Thursday evenings. But keep in mind that you’ll pay less for goods made in Germany and the European Union than for goods imported to Germany from the United States. Return to Potsdamer Platz to see the newest section of Berlin. If you have three days in Berlin Spend half of the third day in Potsdam. Some stores in highly trafficked areas (such as the Hauptbahnhof) are open on Sunday. visiting the palace of Sanssouci and grounds (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). walk along the Kurfürstendamm and dine in a local restaurant. followed by a visit to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) and the Neue Nationalgalerie. but Sunday shopping is otherwise not common. to 2 p. From there you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. and then go on to Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) for a palace tour. with its Cold War museum. head over to the Jüdisches Museum in Freuzberg or explore the Tiergarten. for example. to 6 or 6:30 p.

160 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Shopping in western Berlin Throughout the decades when the wall divided Berlin. . The specialty stores on the side streets around the Ku-Damm. check out the flea market at Arkonaplatz (% 030/786-9764. Ranke Strasse. If nothing catches your fancy. including books. The shopping scene has definitely moved east as well. Another good shopping street in western Berlin. but the stores there tend to be newer. The market is open every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. outdoor retail “passage” created right on the Ku-Damm at Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). U-Bahn: Reinickendorfer Strasse).m. Berlin’s first shopping mall. Europa Center has lost much of its allure and looks dated compared to the newly opened Neues Kranzler Eck. which is currently undergoing a piecemeal renovation/face-lift to bring it up to par with eastern Berlin and lure back shoppers. and 6 p. are good shopping grounds. close to Ku-Damm. who come to find pieces of kitsch. all-around shopping.m. and records.m. S-Bahn: Tiergarten). truth to tell. especially between Breitscheidplatz and Olivaer Platz. which remains the best place for allpurpose. The Berliner Trödelmarkt (no phone. the Europa Center (% 030/3480088). nostalgia. Stores here often are cheaper than on the fancier KuDamm. Neighborhoods and malls The main shopping boulevard in the western part of Berlin is the famous Ku-Damm. furniture. to 5 p. here you’ll find antiques and collectibles. porcelain. adjacent to the Tiergarten S-Bahn station near the corner of the Bachstrasse and Strasse des 17 Juni. an upscale. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse). and more expensive. is Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) and its intersecting streets: Marburger Strasse. the only decent shopping was in western Berlin. But. trendier. Quality stores.m. is the favorite weekend shopping spot for countless Berliners. and used clothing. This area offers a wide array of stores. If you’re in Mitte on Sunday between 10 a. and Nürnberger Strasse. Berlin flea markets A flea market in Germany is called a Trödelmarkt or a Flohmarkt. is on Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). line the street. The same times apply to the flea market at Heidestrasse (% 030/452-9924.. short for Kurfürstendamm (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). just take a seat at one of the many cafes around Arkonaplatz and enjoy the scene in one of Berlin’s hippest neighborhoods. where you can browse for clothing and bric-a-brac. many specializing in German fashions for women. sort-of antiques. in addition to stores carrying cheap souvenirs and T-shirts. here you find around 75 shops joined by restaurants and cafes. but it’s best to come early because many traders leave by midafternoon.

with more being added all the time. Bogner Zenker-Berlin. is a couture hatmaker inspired by vintage fashion magazines and glamorous . Department stores Kaufhaus des Westens (called KaDeWe [ka-day-vay] for short). A grand pre–World War I shopping arcade with interconnected courtyards (Hinterhöfe) occupies most of the block formed by Oranienburger Strasse. Kurfürstendamm 42 (% 030/881-1000. clothing for the entire family. is a long-established shop for men’s and women’s clothing made in Germany. jewelry. Some of the stores offer cost-cutting clothing and housewares. electrical devices. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). home to some of the most exclusive boutiques in the city. Bleibgrün. and. You find trendier boutiques along Bleibtreustrasse. at Uhlandstrasse 170 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 161 Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel The newest shopping. amazingly. Chapeaux Hutmode Berlin. photography supplies. including haute-couture women’s clothing. Grosse Hamburger Strasse. and Italy. and Sophienstrasse. Bleibtreustrasse 30 (% 030/885-0080. and happening neighborhood area is eastern Berlin’s Scheuneviertel. a small. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). some of its oldest buildings survived the World War II bombing raids that reduced most of Berlin to rubble. and theaters. known for its six floors of upscale merchandise and sixth-floor food department. has some of the best boutiques and big-name stores in Berlin. or “barn district” (S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). studios. contains about 100 shops. The area later became Berlin’s Jewish quarter. Wertheim has a large restaurant with a view over half the city. is a huge department store. Austria. Cutting-edge shops line the streets around the arcade. Tauentzien 21 (% 030/21210. is good for travel aids and general basics: perfumes. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). The spaces within the courtyards have now been turned into a series of galleries. Uhlandstrasse 181–183 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Rosenthaler Strasse. named for the hay barns that once stood here. and souvenirs. Fashion Every big-name designer you can think of has a store in Berlin. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). one of the most comprehensive shopping malls in Berlin. The new Potsdamer Platz Arkaden (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). but here are some lesser-known retail venues that may be of interest to fashionistas. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Kurfürstendamm 231 (% 030/ 880-030. household goods. Wertheim. arts. fashionable women’s shoe store with a helpful staff. The Uhland-Passage. Bleibtreustrasse 51 (% 030/312-0913. Shoppers interested in quality at any price need to head to Kempinski Plaza. scattered over three levels.

Meissener Porzellan. clubs. Kurfürstendamm 27 in Kempinski Hotel Bristol (% 030/8867-2110. with upmarket boutiques selling everything from women’s fashions to Meissen porcelain. carries the most avant-garde jewelry in Berlin. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). The largest shopping mall in eastern Berlin. with hundreds of bars. Kurfürstendamm 226 (% 030/8856340. Rosenthal. orchestra and chamber concerts. The main street. see “Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel. now offers some of Berlin’s most elegant shopping. Treykorn. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorferstrasse).and 19th-century KPM designs. one of the most famous porcelain manufacturers in Europe. Friedrichstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). offers an array of Meissen dinner plates. Kantstrasse 106 (% 030/324-3582. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Royal Porcelain Factory). and leaves. grasses. is a wonderfully old-fashioned parfumerie where most of the scents come from old family recipes. Perfumes Harry Lehmann. For more shopping in the eastern part. showcasing more than three dozen of the boldest jewelry artisans in the city. Shopping in eastern Berlin The eastern part of the city has undergone major changes in the retail sector since reunification. offering a little bit of everything. The performing-arts scene is jammed with opera.” in this chapter. Berlin’s nightlife is legendary.162 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany movies from the 1930s. distilled from flowers. Savignyplatz 13 Passage (% 030/ 3180-2354. and cabarets appealing to every taste. sculptures. variety shows. . and chandeliers. Porcelain and china Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur (KPM. The prices are amazingly reasonable for the quality of the perfumes. at the corner of Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Discovering Nightlife in Berlin You find more going on in Berlin than in any other city in Germany. is at the Berliner Markthalle. is the place to go for contemporary Rosenthal porcelain and china from Bavaria. sells porcelain pieces hand-painted and handdecorated with patterns based on traditional 18th. and theater performances every night of the week. Charlottenstrasse 34 (% 030/20458166. dance.

m. A Berlin Welcome Card (see Chapter 11) allows you to buy reduced-price tickets (usually 25 percent off) at several major performing-arts venues. musicals. on the S-Bahn bridge at Alexanderplatz (% 030/230-9930. and classical-music venues. Ticket prices range from about 23€ to 80€ ($29–$100).de) or Berlin Programm. three opera An excellent online source is www. and cabarets are available at Hekticket (www. available at all newsstands. You can see both opera and ballet here in a house with no bad sightlines. Getting tickets You can buy tickets at the venue’s box office (the box office is called a Kasse.m. so everyone can get home at a reasonable hour. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz).m. For some of the larger opera. You also can buy tickets online.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 163 Finding out what’s happening Check the listings in Zitty (www. for the latest schedules of what’s going on you can buy tickets online. If the venue doesn’t have its own Web site. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Good news for culture vultures: With three major symphony U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garter) and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 12. the Deutsche Oper Berlin. day-of-performance tickets for music. is the 1950s-era opera house that served the former West Berlin. The newest trend is to start performances as early as 6 p. I include Web sites in this section so you can check performance schedules and ticket information before you arrive in Berlin.zitty. www. Bismarckstrasse 35 (% 030/341-0249 for recorded information or 030/343-8401. Whenever possible. pronounced kah-suh). and dozens of theaters and cabarets. Tickets can usually be purchased right up to curtain time. up to the time of performance and on Sunday from 10 a. Tickets for more than 100 venues. and theater venues throughout Berlin are sold for up to 50 percent off at the BERLIN infostores. to 2 p. for locations and opening you won’t be lacking for things to do. click “Culture” to access a complete list of events in any category for the specific dates of your visit. dance. including opera.hekticket. Opera and ballet In Charlottenburg. ballet. you may be able to order tickets online at www. Unsold. you can buy tickets from ticket agencies. . Alternatively. which charge a commission.. ballet companies. to 6 p. U-Bahn: Deutsche Oper). both are open Monday through Friday from 10 a. The box office is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. with outlets at Hardenbergstrasse 29 (% 030/ deutscheoperberlin.m. classical concerts. including the opera houses. see Chapter 11.

com.m.m. I . The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. Berlin Phil concerts always sell out. the renowned Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Sir Simon Rattle plays in the acoustically outstanding Philharmonie. You can buy tickets at the Konzerthaus box office. www.75) for standing room to 110€ ($137). and Sunday from 1 p. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). You can buy tickets online. some seats in the upper rings have limited views of the stage. Theater Berlin’s theater scene is outstanding. most of the plays are performed in German. Tickets are available at the box offices of both venues. Berlin’s Komische Oper.staatsoper-berlin. and Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 8 Symphony orchestras and classical music In the Kulturforum complex. The historic Schauspielhaus in the former East Berlin has undergone a stunning transformation and is now the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt. to 8 p. Ticket prices range from about 7€ ($8. is a famous and well-respected East Berlin house with a unique artistic has a useful listing of plays and films in English. If you don’t speak the language but want to experience German theater.m.konzerthaus. Behrenstrasse 55–57 (% 030/ I suggest you order your tickets online several weeks before your trip. The box office (Unter den Linden 4) is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.. www. Chamber-music concerts are given at the adjoining Kammermusiksaal. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p. to 7 p. Matthäikirchstrasse 1 (box office % 030/ The Berlin Symphony Orchestra and other orchestras and classical music groups perform in this glittering. pitchperfect hall. and symphony concerts are performed here. Gendarmenmarkt (% 030/203-090. to 2 p. www. Different ticket prices apply for each U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). Prices ranges from 8€ to 62€ ($10–$77). is housed in a historic building in Berlin-Mitte. which is open daily noon to 6 p. so if you want to hear this fabulous orchestra.m. The Berliner Grundtheater (% 030/7800-1497. Tickets range from about 20€ to 80€ ($25–$100). of course. the Berlin Symphony.164 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The Staatsoper Unter den Linden.m. Unter den Linden 7 (% 030/20-35-40. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz).thebgt. but. www. to the time of performance. performs at both the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt.m. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). operas. The city’s third major orchestra. The programs feature opera and ballet performances. www. The Web site www. musicals.. and one hour before Saturday and Sunday from 11 performs English-language plays in different venues around the city. and an hour before performances.m.

and many theater fans enjoy seeing Brecht’s plays performed in “his” theater. and 9:15 p. Friedrichstadt-Palast. Chez Nous Travestie-Theater. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Ticket prices range from about 5€ to 30€ ($6. matinees on Saturday and Sunday. with a nightly variety show featuring magicians.m. www. The most expensive seats are on stage level. when the theater’s closed) the performances begin at 8 p. Nightly shows start at 8:30 and 11 p. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a..m. For more listings.m.m. Believing that these glamorous ladies are really gentlemen sometimes is difficult. but most nights (except Mon. .de.. Cabarets and variety shows Berlin has long been famous for its cabarets and variety Ticket prices range from 17€ to 61€ ($21–$76). Playwright Bertolt Brecht formed this group with his wife.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 165 recommend going to see a production by the famous Berliner Ensemble. you can find something to do all across the city. Cover is 29€ to 59€ ($36–$74).cabaret-chez-nous. with 4 p.berliner-ensemble. and one hour before performances.m. Marburgerstrasse 14 (% 030/213-1810. Helene Weigel. and live music. www. Tauentzienstrasse and Budapester Strasse (% 030/261-4795. Europa Center.m. www. to 6 p. Checking out the dance clubs and bars If you’re into nightlife. wintergarten-variete. Friedrichstrasse 107 (% 030/2326-2326. clowns. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Cover is 35€ ($44). U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse).m. depending on the show and the day you attend. The cover charge is 12€ to 26€ ($14–$32).m. balconies have conventional theater seats (but drinks are sold there. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Potsdamer Strasse 96 (% 030/ to 6 p. too).de. Wintergarten Variété. visit www. Monday through Friday. and Saturday at 6 and 10 p. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Part of the performance usually involves a selection of popular songs. is a big theater that features variety acts from around the world. Shows begin at 8 p. friedrichstadtpalast. This section includes just a few of the bars and dance clubs in Berlin. is a cabaret that’s been poking fun at the German and American political scenes for many years now.diestachelschweine. and Saturday at 6 p.m.. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).m. is a famous little cabaret where all the performers are in extravagant drag and most of the audience is heterosexual.25–$37). Shows take place Tuesday through Friday at 7:30 p. www. jugglers. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1 (% 030/2840-8155. Shows and showtimes vary.m. This cabaret is closed in July.m. is the largest and most nostalgic Berlin cabaret. and spending an evening in one can be enjoyable even if you don’t speak a word of German. Die Stachelschweine (The Porcupine).de. in Mitte. www.

U-Bahn: Prinzenstrasse).m. Mohrenstrasse 30 (% 030/20230. to 2 a. industrial-looking late-night disco that plays mostly high-energy retro rock for a crowd that includes lots of students.m.. Cover is 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). and highly danceable music.. Cover is 10€ to 16€ ($13–$19). Club hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 10 p. Many bars now have an open-ended closing policy. where you encounter many different styles of music. Admission is free on Tuesday and Wednesday when local musicians perform. video clips. has two very large rooms.m. draws a young 20-something crowd. The cover ranges from 3€ to 8€ ($3. Berlin Hilton. the crowd is a hip mixture of gay and straight. The club is open most nights from 10:30 p. to 4 a. This section includes places that are likely to be around for years to come. Metropole. a stage for floor shows. SO36. Saturday and Sunday until 7 a. in trendy Kreuzberg.. Show days vary. Cover usually is about 5€ ($6. call first to verify. is a four-story club with live rock shows four nights a week featuring German and international touring bands. to 4 a.m. . Kantstrasse 12A (% 030/312-8086. Live music A Trane.m. is a small.m. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). Cover is 5. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten)..m.25). Oranienstrasse 190 (% 030/6140-1306. Nollendorfplatz 5 (% 030/217-3680. so call first. is Berlin’s top jazz club. and fog machine. The club is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 p. is a large. Cover is 3€ to 8€ ($3. and Saturday nights. Kurfürstendamm 156 (% 030/3200-0717. The club is open Monday through Thursday from 8 p. Greifswalderstrasse 224 (% 030/442-7060. Friday. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz). housed in an old theater with an Egyptian temple interior. depending on the band.m.m.m. Knaack-Klub. to 4 a. to 4 a. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte).m. depending on the night and who’s playing. otherwise 13€ ($16). The club is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9 p. Far Out.m.m.m. but a packed club can stay open until 6 a.m. Hours are Monday to Friday 10 p. You always find dancing on Wednesday.75–$10).m.50€ ($7).m. smoky jazz club featuring musicians from around the world.166 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bars and clubs don’t generally get going until midnight. An empty club may choose to close at 2 a. The club is open Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p. including rock and Latin jazz.m.m. is a glossy and popular dance club with a great lighting system. to 4 a. Pestalozzistrasse 105 (% 030/313-2550. Please keep in mind that new bars open and bars close all the time. in happening Prenzlauer Berg. to 4 a. to 5 a. Quasimodo. Friday and Saturday from 9 p. Dance clubs Chip.75–$10). U-Bahn: Savignyplatz).

The following bars currently are popular. cozy.m. Reingold. geared toward a very late-night glamour crowd. is dedicated to hard-core punk. is reminiscent of a wood-paneled private club in London. Neighborhood bars: Kneipes and Lokals Do you want to find a casual. Lore Berlin is open nightly until 3 a. Harry’s New York Bar. Expect to pay at least 6€ ($7.m. a cozy place similar to a neighborhood pub in the United Kingdom. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Bahnhof). quiet. otherwise free.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 167 Wild at Heart. so you may feel out of place if you show up in blue jeans and sneakers. to 10 a. Lore Berlin.. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).m. Admission is about 4€ ($5) for concerts. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). Harry’s is open daily from noon to 2 a. 11 Novalistrasse (% 030/2838-7676. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). and intimate. unpretentious spot for a plain old glass of bier vom Fass (beer on tap)? What you need is a Kneipe (ka-nigh-puh).m. and they offer meals (see the “Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs” sidebar in this chapter). and rockabilly. to 4 a. and an intriguing mix of people hanging around a long and narrow bar with theatrical lighting that makes almost everyone look attractive. The bar is open daily from 3 p. until 4 a. has a menu listing almost 200 drinks and a limited selection of food. Popular bars Later is better if you want to go out barhopping and see what’s happening in Berlin.m. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz). Wienerstrasse 20 (% 030/611-7010. is chic and elegant. Times Bar is open daily from 11 a. great dance music. but rather a place where you can relax in a big leather chair and read The Times of London. with minimalist décor.m. Lützowufer 15 in Grand Hotel Esplanade (% 030/ 2547-8821. Bar am Lützowplatz.m. rock. The Times Bar isn’t a late-nightscene bar. Lützowplatz 7 (% 030/262-6807. Fasanenstrasse 9 (% 030/311-030. to 2 a.m. is hip and fun. . Saturday and Sunday from 8 p.m. A small bar like this sometimes is called a Lokal (low-call). Many Berliners have a favorite Kneipe where they stop in after work or later in the evening for a beer and a chat with their friends. Brewpubs also are good places to sample beer. Neue Schönhauser Strasse 20 (% 030/2804-5134. The club is open Monday through Friday from 8 p. with bands from Germany and elsewhere playing Wednesday through Saturday nights. one of the longest and narrowest bars in Berlin. pop art. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). The place is open nightly until 4 a.m.50) for a straightforward drink. more for anything exotic. and photographs of American presidents. These places tend to be fashion-conscious. features cutting-edge design. less for a glass of beer. Times Bar. Savoy Hotel.

smoky. U-Bahn: Klostergasse). The Gasthof is open daily from 10 a. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz).m. and unfiltered. George right outside. the helles (light) is top-fermented. but be sure to make the palace of Sanssouci your top priority. 24km (15 miles) southwest of Berlin. You can order hearty portions of German food (meat. You can choose between beers brewed on-premises. The bar can be loud. Wilmersdorferstrasse 149 (% 030/341-8174.m. Potsdam. You can order beer in a smallish 6-ounce (0. to 2 a.90–$16). blond. The brewpub is open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a.m. to 10:30 p. a yeasty aroma.000th anniversary in 1993 and has historic sites of its own.50€ to 13€ ($6. a former garrison town on the Havel River.50€ to 13€ ($12–$16).168 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs The first Bierhaus (brewpub. and raucous.) . Friday and Saturday 10 a. Traditional food is served in an adjacent room Monday through Saturday from 11 a. to midnight. The smoky interior of this brewpub is comfortably Old Berlin. Berlin is home to hundreds of Kneipes and Lokals. unfiltered. Bartenders pour more than a dozen kinds of beer and serve wine by the glass. U-Bahn: Bismarckstrasse). has a darkish amber color. Spreeufer 4 (% 030/242-4244. to 12:30 a. to midnight. Gasthaus Georgenbräu. You can also order plates of hearty German food.m. main courses go for 9.m. opened in 1987 across the street from Charlottenburg Palace.4-liter) serving (3. (See the “Potsdam” map on the next page. is named after the statue of St. is now the capital of the state of Brandenburg. also unfiltered and topfermented. The house beer is a pale. Dating from 1892. Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci Frederick the Great’s Schloss Sanssouci (palace of Sanssouci) in Potsdam is the architectural signature of one of Germany’s most dominating personalities. a brewpub in the Nikolaiviertel beside the River Spree. Allow yourself at least half a day to visit this remarkable palace and its beautiful grounds.m. sauerkraut... topfermented beer. A famous one is Gaststätte Hoeck. and salads) to accompany your beer. Gaststätte Hoeck is the oldest Kneipe in Charlottenburg and still has its original wood panels with inlaid glass on the walls. Gasthaus Luisenbräu. dumplings. or microbrewery) in Berlin. Luisenplatz 1 (% 030/341-9388. main courses run from 5. The dunkles (dark). even though the building is relatively new.2-liter) glass (1.60€/$2) or in an 11-ounce (0.m. and a nice balance of hop bitterness and malt flavor.m. The town celebrated its 1.20€/$4). Hours are 8 a. blond.

lst ze str. the cost is generally about 40€ ($50) for a half-day fast-track tour.60€ ($2). Dortustr. you must first get to Potsdam. Lo a- St r.-V. tten Charlo str. r. ws Havel -M er an nAl lee L 0 0 0. au 4 er .25 mi N DINING Biergarten 6 Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle” 7 ATTRACTIONS Bildergalerie 5 Chinesische Teehaus 3 Neues Palais 1 Orangerie 2 Schloss Cecilienhof 8 Schloss Sanssouci 4 Information i Railway Getting there To get to Sanssouci. rgstr s PA R K S A N S S O U C I 5 tr. Eichenallee n str.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 169 Potsdam Hamburg 614 Berlin Potsdam r. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof asse i ge Lan cke Brü tr. and you’ll almost immediately come to a flight of stairs leading up to the palace.. rn Bo NEUER GARTEN Heiliger See rsc rten Ki un ds e Am Ruinenberg llee BERLINER VORSTADT er str . Fried rich-E nge Sch laa tzs tr. Hop on bus no. turn left.-Sachs-Str. en dt M ran mb Re Am Neuen Palais Linden str. Ne uen 692 en Am Ga B273 Po tsdam er Str. Feue rba str. S-Bahn line S7 stops at the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station. 94 95 W BRANDENBURGER VORSTADT St or m . str Ze e pp lin . 694 tr. Nedlitzer St en str . Str Kurfü rsten er ass e H.Ossietzky-Str. If you don’t want to hassle with anything. The bus fare is 1. Tiefer See Hu Br mbo üc ld ke t- Nu th es Breite Str Forststr. Cross the road.25 km 0. 608 ls-Str. Lindenavenue Be konomieweg Ökonomieweg Lennéstr. s te r dte g irewe Volta Allee str. you can take one of the Potsdam–Sanssouci bus tours offered by the sightseeing bus companies on Ku-Damm (see “Bus tours” earlier in this chapter). 695 in front of the station and ride nine stops to the Schloss Sanssouci stop. Weinbe Hauptallee lallee e 1 Heg 3 Jägera 2 Sc Friedrich-Ebert-Str. ch- Schloss Charlottenhof Kastanienallee Am Ka n ue Ne en AmGart M an g str. . nal rlin ho 6 7 pe Gregornh Mendel-Str. The trip couldn’t be easier: From Berlin. Jungfernsee 8 GERMANY ee ha ll ds Am un Frankfurt Munich Am S Pap pela llee chra g BORNSTEDT Ka th ho arin lzs en tr. C. He zig Tor no eip Im Bogen 631 610 606 Str. str S-Bahn Station S inr ich t ies te-P en ule str wk . Str.

you may have to wait for a much later brochures. Either before or after your tour.m.) and on Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. to 4 p.m. Before setting off on the tour. One of the greatest and most beautiful examples of European rococo. Your ticket tells you what time you can enter the palace to begin your guided tour. From then on. To escape the rigors of Berlin court life. lakey area to be his second seat of residence outside Berlin. (in winter.170 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding tourist information Maps. leafy. spend some time wandering through the magnificent landscaped gardens with their bevy of historic buildings. Waits in summer months can be up to three hours long. Sanssouci was a summer resort for an enlightened monarch. but information sheets in English are available from the guide.). Discovering the top attractions Potsdam didn’t gain true importance until the “Great Elector” Friedrich Wilhelm (1620–1688) chose the lovely. All kinds of rococo treasures fill the palace. which you see on a tour that lasts about 45 minutes.25) for children and students.m. You can see the palace only on a guided tour costing 8€ ($10) for adults. a place where he could let his wig down. and philosophy. Fred the Great created the original design for the grounds.). you’re required to don huge felt slippers so you don’t scuff the floors. Friedrich II (called Frederick the Great. to 8 p.m. Sat–Sun until 2 p. In short.m.m. Sanssouci was built between 1745 and 1747 as Frederick’s summerhouse. (Nov–Mar from 10 a. Potsdam was a royal hangout.m. discuss weighty matters with French philosopher Voltaire. and 5€ ($6.m. and you must ask for them.m. (Nov–Mar to 4 p.potsdam. to 6 p. open Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. poetry. and his planning still is evident in the restored vineyard terraces and the area immediately around the palace. A timed-entry system is in effect at Sanssouci. . www.m. to 5 p. 1712–1786) built in Potsdam a “small” country palace where he could retire sans souci (without a care) and indulge his passions for music. All the buildings listed here are signposted so you won’t get lost on the grounds. and make music with composer Carl Philip Emanuel Bach. open daily from 9 a. You find another tourist office at Am Neuen Markt 1 (% 0331/275-580). Your tour time is printed on your ticket. If you don’t arrive early. and inexpensive guidebooks for both the town and the palace are available at the Potsdam tourist information office in the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (% 0331/270-9051. Schloss (Palace) Sanssouci (% 0331/969-4190) is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. The tour is given only in German.

m. the largest building in Sanssouci park. contains copies of paintings by Raphael and features ornately decorated salons. (closed Thurs). % 0331/969-4181).). (Nov–Mar until 4 p. including U. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. to 5 p. Admission is 2€ ($2.m.m.). you can grab a quick.m. Dining at Sanssouci From May through September. you can visit the private rooms used by Crown Prince Wilhelm and Princess Cecelie. Schloss Cecilienhof (Cecilienhof Palace.–6 p. The Orangerie is open mid-May to midOctober.” where you can order a complete meal (open year-round daily 10 a. The privileged classes would retire here to drink a new beverage called tea. This building is not open to the public.m.m. inexpensive bite at the Biergarten kiosk (no phone. to 5 p. The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.) across the road behind the palace of Sanssouci.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 171 ߜ The Bildergalerie (Picture Gallery. Now the palace serves as a hotel and conference center. The palace is open Saturday through Thursday from 9 a.). to 5 p. More interesting are the rooms used for the Potsdam Conference. At the end of WWII. to 5 p. was completed in 1769 and used by the Hohenzollern royal family.). President Harry Truman. The gallery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. The food is basic wursts with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad).75). . Admission is 8€ ($10) for a grand tour of all the rooms. Admission for the guided tour is 8€ ($10).S. In the adjacent pavilion. was completed in 1763 and displays a collection of works from the Italian Renaissance and baroque eras. the palace was used as headquarters for the Potsdam Conference attended by the heads of the Allied powers. % 0331/969-4200) was a royal residence from 1917 until 1945. on the eastern side of the palace grounds. 10 a. Admission is 3€ ($3. ߜ The mid-19th-century Orangerie (% 0331/969-4280). open May–Sept daily 10 a. Ornamental “Oriental” buildings like this were all the rage in 18th-century Europe. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. % 0331/969-4255). you find the fancier Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle.m.m. ߜ The Neues Palais (New Palace. to 5 p.m.m. ߜ Built to look like an English country manor. west of the palace.m.m. Inside you see rococo rooms filled with paintings and antiques. ߜ The Chinesische Teehaus (Chinese Teahouse) is a little gem of a rococo building resembling a pagoda.m. On a guided tour.m.50). and Russian dictator Joseph Stalin.m. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. You can eat for under 4€ ($5) and sit at outdoor tables.

Berlin phone numbers may have from five to eight digits. to 1 p. call % 112 for an ambulance. for an emergency dentist.m.m. and Friedrichstrasse 172 (% 030/201-7400.m. in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz or Unter den Linden) and under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at . to 1 or 3 p. Some stores stay open late on Thursday (usually until 8:30 p. Except in the train stations. for a per-minute land-line telephone fee.. Irish.m. Hospitals Hotel employees are familiar with the location of the nearest hospital emergency room. Emergencies To call the police. and Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p. Dentists and Doctors You’ll find a list of doctors and specialists in the Berlin Yellow Pages or. in Neue Kranzler Eck at Ku-Damm and Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).m. In an emergency. shops stay open until 4 or 6 p. % 01804/ 2255-2362.m. Embassies and Consulates See the appendix for the addresses of the Australian.m.m.m.. call % 030/31-00-31 (24 hours). U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). to 2 p. Currency Exchange The currency exchange offices in the Hauptbahnhof and Bahnhof Zoo are open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. call % 030/8900-4333.m. stores are generally not open on Sunday. South African.m. are located in the Hauptbahnhof (U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). open Monday through Friday 9 a. Business Hours Most banks are open Monday through Friday 9 a. For an emergency doctor. To report a fire or to summon an ambulance.m. On langer Samstag (longer Saturday). embassies and consulates.K.m. you can locate a doctor through Call a Doc. If you’re calling within Berlin. and on Sunday from 10 a. to 6 or 6:30 p. to 2 p. If you’re within Germany but not in Berlin. use 030.). Canadian.172 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Fast Facts: Berlin American Express American Express has two main offices: Bayreutherstrasse 37–38 (% 030/21476292. and U. Use 30 whenever you’re calling Berlin from outside Germany. open Monday through Friday 9 a. dial % 110. Country Code and City Code The city code for Berlin is 30.m. Information The main tourist information centers.m. See also “Telephone” later in this list and in the appendix.m. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number. and Saturday 10 a.S.m. dial % 112. the first Saturday of the month. to 9 p. and Saturday from 9 a. to 7 p.m. You can also exchange money at American Express (see the beginning of this list for addresses). U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). ATMs You find ATMs all across Berlin. called BERLIN infostores. to 7 p. Two convenient bank branches with 24-hour ATM service are Deutsche Bank at Wittenbergplatz (U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz) and Dresdner Bank at Kurfürstendamm 237 (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). U.m. Most other businesses and stores are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a.

Post Office The main post office at Joachimstaler Strasse 7 (% 030/8870-8611. Internet Access One of Berlin’s largest Internet cafes is EasyEverything. To make an international call. to 10 p.. check out Chapter 11. go to Europa–Apotheke. use a call box marked Inlands und Auslandsgespräche.m. Some require 0. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12 (% 030/261-4142. offering over 300 terminals. Taxes See the appendix for details. The same hours . Maps The most detailed Berlin map with a complete street index is the fold-out Falk plan.m. For hours and other information about each office. a few steps from Unter den Linden. to midnight. For a centrally located pharmacy. use common sense and caution when you’re in a crowded public area.m. is the Dorotheenstadtische Apotheke.20€ as you depart. Taxis with illuminated roof signs are available.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Alexanderplatz (S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. most accept only Telefonkarte (telephone cards).m. until noon. Saturday 8 a. Newspapers and Magazines Newsstands carry Zitty and BerlinProgramm. easyeverything. dial % 110. Friedrichstrasse 154 (% 030/204-4817. if there is an attendant. For more. Many phones also accept Visa cards.bvg. Taxis You can hail taxis along Berlin’s major streets. As in any large metropolis. U-/S-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). branch locations are in the Sony Center and Karl-Marx-Strasse 78. which list events around the city. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Restrooms You find public facilities throughout Berlin and at all train terminals. available at most newsstands. For more about fares and where to call for a taxi. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).m. Kurfürstendamm 224 (www. located near the Europa Center.50€ to get in through a turnstile. Sunday and holidays from 10 a. You can also make long-distance calls from post offices.S. In Mitte. Most have instructions in provides U-Bahn information (% 030/19449) and S-Bahn information (% 030/2974-3333) daily from 6 a. ah-potay-kuh) at night. Safety Berlin is safer than most large U. 173 Regular post office hours are Monday through Friday 8 a. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. go to the nearest one and look for a sign in the window giving the address of the nearest pharmacy with nighttime hours (such postings are required by law).50 and $31) denominations at any post office or news vendor. in others. see Chapter 11.m. to 6 p. Police To call the police. to midnight. you are expected to leave 0. which you can purchase in 6€ and 25€ ($7. see the appendix. Transit Assistance The Transit Authority (BVG. Pharmacies If you need a pharmacy (Apotheke. Single women need to avoid the dimly lit streets in Kreuzberg at night. cities. Telephones Finding a coin-operated telephone in Berlin is now rare.m.

berlin-tourist-information. restaurants. . Web Sites The best overall Web sites for tourist information on Berlin are de. where you can buy tickets and obtain a free transit map.174 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany apply to the BVG information kiosk outside Bahnhof Weather You can check the weather online before you go at www. At these sites. and more.zitty. nightlife. you find information in English about events. and

sunny weather in northern Germany at any time of the year. and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the port city of Hamburg ᮣ Touring the ancient city of Bremen ᮣ Exploring medieval Lübeck T his chapter covers three cities in northern Germany with long histories of seafaring. Hamburg. In medieval times. Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World Hamburg. and sweater probably will come in handy. Some find Hamburg to be a bit smug. Don’t expect dry. (See the “Hamburg” map in this chapter. even during the summer. Hamburg is sin-city . an umbrella. and commerce. miles).) The terrain is characteristic of northern Germany: low. and lakes. and Bremen were important members of the Hanseatic League. prosperous city. marshlands. has a flat. the most powerful commercial network in Europe. even haughty. which also is one of Germany’s 16 federal states. A sense of the vast northern seas permeates the city. Hamburg and Lübeck still retain the term Hansestadt (Hanseatic City) in their official titles. often gray and misty.Chapter 13 Hamburg. Everyone carries away a different impression of this bustling. Bremen. In fact. raincoat. For others. but also densely green and filled with trees. windswept. Lübeck. a city of “high culture” and elegance and obsessed with making money. located on the Elbe River about 100km (62 miles) from the North Sea. Hansa cities formed trade affiliations that linked northern Germany to the eastern Baltic regions and Scandinavia. trade. km (294 sq. If you’re traveling in the north. watery landscape that spreads out over 754 sq.

176 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg ACCOMMODATIONS Aussen Alster 28 Hamburg Marriott 15 Hotel Hafen Hamburg 6 Hotel Side 14 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg 26 Park Hyatt Hamburg 22 Pension Helga Schmidt 25 Wedina 27 DINING Apples Restaurant 22 Cremon Weinkeller 17 Die Rösterei 23 Eisenstein 3 Fischküche Karin Brahm 18 Le Paquebot 20 Melange 6 Ratsweinkeller Hamburg 19 Voltaire Bistro 2 ATTRACTIONS R2 Alster Lake 29 Erotic Art Museum 4 Hafen (Harbor) 5 Hamburger Kunsthalle 24 Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte Strese9 mann strass Rathaus 16 e Reeperbahn 8 4 St. Michaelis a7 str Tierpark Hagenbeck 1 ch ba Wallringpark: Alter Botanischer Garten 13 Grosse Wallanlagen 10 Kleine Wallanlagen 11 Planten und Blomen 12 Keiler 1 HOHELUFT Le hm w eg Ho he g R2 or nd r fe we Jungfrauenthal luf tch au sse G E Hamburg Berlin NY Frankfurt M A R Munich pe ism c ar ks tr se as Ep e Innocentiapark B HARVESTEHUDE Werder- Sc asse hla EIMSBÜTTEL Bu nde sstr nk re ye Hallerstrasse ee Be sse Ludw igErha S t r a sr d se Karolinenstr kort stra Al t on asse r ae St ra ss e SternschanzenHeinrichpark HertzTurm Re str ntz as else Planten un Blomen 12 Alter Botanischer Garten Har Feldstrasse 13 Kleine Wallanlagen -Fock rch 11 Go Ha u 4 sse e cis 2 3 ch Heiligengeistfeld au 10 Gla Grosse Wallanlagen ll Gr ilh elm ps all im wa ind am Sc hl elh r-W F r u c h t a ll e e S chä fer k um St Gros Freih se eit Thadenstrasse erL o u ise-S c h r ö d sse Stra Simon -von- Utrecht-Strasse ALTONA 4 ST. PAULI Reepe rbahn 8 Ludw Ho sse 9 lst Schom en of e p Gri nde lalle Eim sbü tte l er Ch burgstra Palmaille Fischmarkt aar tor G r o s s e Elbes t r ass e Elbe Baumwall Alst Sch erfl König Frie eet strass e se ras hst dric Herbert- tr ocht-S hard-N strasse Bern St.-PauliLandungsbrücken 5 asse Schaarsteinweg Blei 6 tin ar rM the se Lu tras S chen 7 trasse fleet Stras s e au s see Bud ape Ka ise ster stra - ra sse ss e ig-Erh ard-S . Jacobikirche 21 e ss St.

Bremen. and Lübeck 177 Fer Hochallee strasse nsic ht Gell Hans-H en n erts se tras -W ahn y-J eg BARMBEK Weide strasse Hallerstras Rothenbaumchaussee se Mitte Alsterpark PÖSSELDORF Milchst rasse UHLENHORST se 5 da eA uss i m ch t ds bu m er ROTHERBAUM Aussenalster lweg en wi k HOHENFELDE Müh Mitte hw an M un rg 29 er Sc Alst Th.25 km Ha St mbu ra r ss ge e r Le rc he nf eld Bellevue Be lle Sie vu rich e Herderstrasse stra sse Be et ho n ve str as se He rbe rt-W eic hm ann -St W in te rh ud er W eg Harvest ras Sc h lweg ön huder Weg lend amm er ck e be ss Lü stra Ju ng fe rn sti eg Po sts tra en sse 75 Nag elsw eg ook stra sse N .-HeussPlatz GustavMahler-Park eruf Se ch sli ng K Ko op pp e ls Wall 14 Ken ne dyb rücke L Lo om mb ba arrd ds sb brrü üc ck ke e An de 27 tra asss se rA l r ste 28 sp fo rte e BORGFELDE lal e W rass st 26 25 24 Hachmannplatz ST.25 mi Bro or okt kai Information i 0.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Matt Holzb nde Sa ra ss e St. GEORG Hansaplatz S in te da m m 15 CAB asse Str Ba lin da m m Binnenalster Hauptbahnhof öncke 22 M 23 21 22 se as t Steinstr Speersor i Adena K i Ble che nfl eet 20 sse bergstra e ueralle ee r-All ache m u h c S t r u tra M 16 Börse st er g ö n c ke b r. Petri Kirche 19 sse asse gstr sse ldin a Spa nalstr a rdk No Ham me rbr ALTSTADT Do ms 17 e Dov nfle Ob er brü baum cke - Ost-West-Strasse Katharinenstrasse et Am sin B Ba an nks cks tra 18 Kajen stra a sse 0 0 s ss se e 0.

The terminal contains a tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300) in the arrivals area of terminals 1 and 2 (open daily 5:30 a. call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) at % 11861.10) for children younger than 12.airport.178 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany incarnate. which explains why you find historic buildings standing side by side with steel-and-glass structures. plane. horn-blaring port and sedate late-19th-century neighborhoods. . www.–11 p. For train information. Much of the city was destroyed during World War II (WWII). Most trains arrive at the centrally located Hamburg Hauptbahnhof. Paul-Baumer-Platz 1–3 (% 040/50750.m. Taxi stands are in front of all the terminals. Germans often call it their “gateway to the world. the trip time is 21⁄2 hours. By plane Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of the city center is Hamburg Airport. which stops in front of terminals 1 and 4. Hamburg has a huge. The bus runs every 15 to 20 minutes (5 a. Because of the Elbe and two enormous inner-city lakes. Hamburg has train connections with all major German and European cities. an array of easily identified banks with currency-exchange windows. Hachmannplatz 10 (% 040/39183046). An S-Bahn line connects the two stations. the journey takes about 25 minutes. and car.).50€ ($3. The easiest way to get into the city is by the Airport Express bus. and other independent currency-exchange services and” Getting there Hamburg is the largest city in northern Germany and is easy to reach by train. not under. you’re as much aware of water as land — Hamburg has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined.) to the city’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station). From Berlin. and then make a second stop at Hamburg-Altona (% 040/39182387) in the western part of the city. The one-way fare is 5.–9:20 p. land of the lurid Reeperbahn. a street where sex is sold overthe-counter. this city makes a good headquarters.20€ ($6.m. bustling. Most major European cities have direct flights to Hamburg. A taxi from the airport to the city costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 30 minutes. With its giant port and strongly international flair.m. By train Hamburg has two major rail stations. Intriguing Hamburg is worth a day or two of your time.ham. depending on traffic.50) for adults and 2. If you want to explore northern Germany.

Cost is 14€ ($17) for adults.m. Taking a bus tour A guided bus tour is the best way to get a feel for Hamburg and its various neighborhoods and special areas.m. a lake rimmed by Hamburg’s most significant and can book a hotel room for you for a 4€ ($5) fee. to 6 p. Hamburg Stadt Rundfahrt (% 040/792-8979) offers the Elbe Tour. Pösseldorf. the A7 from the north and starts at 8 in the main train station near the main entrance. the Lombardsbrücke and the Kennedybrücke. divide the Alster into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster). to 9 p.m. The 90-minute Top Tour (www.-PauliLandungsbrücken between piers 4 and 5. November through March 10 a.m. Cost is 18€ ($22) for adults. is 30€ ($37) to 6 p.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Bremen. Finding information Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg operates the tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300. and Lübeck 179 By car The A1 Autobahn reaches Hamburg from the south and west. you find tourist information (% 040/3005-1300) at the St. hamburg. Kirchenallee entrance. lichter-tour.50) for children. Flanking the Binnenalster on the south is the Jungfernstieg. run south from Binnenalster. Tickets for all tours are available on the bus and all tours have live commentary in English. including a drink.m.. The three-hour “Lights of Hamburg” tour (www. (hourly in winter). Daily tours on double-decker buses operated by Hamburger Stadtrundfahrten (% 040/641-3731) leave from the main train station. channeling water from the . Hamburg’s most vital artery and shopping district. from the St. In the harbor area.m. 7€ ($9) for children up to 14. Orienting yourself The Hauptbahnhof is located on the eastern fringe of central Hamburg. Pauli Reeperbahn district.-Pauli-Landungsbrüucken. Cost. Another good online source of information is departs every 30 minutes from 9:30 a.m.m. Two canals. Two bridges. northwest of Aussenalster. www. the city’s commercial and shopping district. which lasts 2 hours and 30 minutes and includes towns along the Elbe River. The office is open daily from 8 a. and the A24 from the east. This office is open April through October daily from 8 a. 6€ ($7. double-decker buses depart Saturday and Sunday from April through October at 2 p. Central Hamburg surrounds the Alster.m. is a tree-filled residential district with many fine 19th-century villas and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings. from May through October and includes a visit to the St. to 5 p. Alsterfleet and Bleichenfleet. A word to the wise: Park your car and use public transportation in this busy city. the A23 from the northwest.

The fare. formerly a city in its own right. The U-Bahn (subway) and buses Hamburg’s U-Bahn serves the entire central area and connects with the S-Bahn light-rail trains in the suburbs. The St. The Port (Hafen) of Hamburg. % 040/19449. a short distance to the south. The Reeperbahn.180 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Alster to the Elbe.75) for one adult and up to three children under 15.80€ ($9. S-Bahn (light rail). which takes place at dawn every Sunday. admission to 11 Hamburg museums. A single one-way fare for both U-Bahn and bus costs 2. is located northwest of the river. Pauli. the old sailor’s quarter that became the center of Hamburg nightlife.55€ ($1. bisects St. A one-day card costs 7. Taxi meters begin at 2€ ($2. a famous neon-lit boulevard with cafes. stretches for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River. and music halls. com) operates the U-Bahn (subway). The HamburgCard is good for travel on all public transport. and harbor ferries. Pauli district. www. To see everything of interest.” earlier in this chapter). call % 040/441-011 or 040/666-666. is the scene of Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market). You can buy the card at the tourist information offices (see “Finding information. depends on how far you travel. Buy your ticket from the bus driver or from automatic vending machines at U-Bahn stations and bus stops. sex shows. and lake cruises.50€ ($3) within Greater Hamburg. now integrated into Greater Hamburg. bars. A-Bahn (commuter rail).90) per kilometer. The western district of Altona. Many of Hamburg’s finest hotels and restaurants cluster around the Binnenalster and the Rathaus (City Hall). A three-day card costs 17€ ($22) for one adult and up to three children. discos.80€ ($7. A tageskarte (day ticket) for unlimited use of public transportation costs 5.hvv. . buses. south of Central Hamburg and the Alster. and discounts on city tours. but buses offer a good alternative and enable you to see more of the city. guided tours of the port. which is the same for both U-Bahn and bus. The U-Bahn is the fastest means of getting around.25) for an adult and includes fare for up to three children traveling with an adult.50) and rise 1. Getting around Hamburg Hamburg is not a compact city and can’t be easily covered on foot. you have to depend on public transportation or taxis. Taxis For a taxi. The Altona neighborhood is a great place to explore or have dinner. Hamburger Verkehrsverbund (HVV. the world’s seventh-largest harbor.

Sülldorf Hochkamp Diebsteich Othmarschen S1 Blankenese Klein Flottbek Bahrenfeld S-Bahn U-Bahn Hudtwaickerstr. Trabrennbahn Rübenkamp Farmsen Rahlstedt Fuhlsbüttel Klein Borstel Meinendorfer Weg Wellingsbüttel S1 Poppenbüttel Buchenkamp Volksdorf Ahrensburg West Ahrensburg Ahrensburg Ost. Christuskirche Lutterothstr. Sierichstr. Rauhes Haus Markenstr. Wandsbek Markt brucke Hallerstr. Reeperbahn St. Langenfelde Osterstr. Berliner Tor Mittierer Landweg Allermöhe Netteinburg Wohltorf Reinbek Aumühle S21 Schwerin Berlin Single track section AKN Line DB Line Chapter 13: Hamburg. Saarlandstr. Messberg 181 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn S3 Neuwiedenthal . Landwehr Hammerkirche Horner Rennbahn Bergstr. and Lübeck Bergedorf Buxtehude Stade Holstenstr. Hasselbrook Ritterstr. Jungfernstieg Rödingsmarkt Rathaus Neugraben Heimfeld Harburg Rathaus Harburg Bremen Hanover Hammerbrook Hauptbahnhof Steinstr. Altona Sternschanze Feidstraße Königstr. Großhansdorf Schmalenbeck Kiekut Kiwittsmoor U1 Norderstedt Mitte A1 Hasioh Bönningstedt Elmshorn Niendorf Nord Schippelsweg Burgwedel S3 Pinneberg Schnelsen Thesdorf Joachim-Mähl-Str. Mundsburg Wandsbeker Chaussee Schlump Wandsbek Uhlandstr. Bilstedt Steinfurther Allee Rothenburgsort Mümmelmannsberg U3 Tiefstack Veddel Bilwerder-Moorfleet Wilhelmsberg Lübecker Str.Neumünster Ulzberg Süd Ulzburg Süd A2 Richtweg U1 Ohlstedt Lübeck Garstedt Ochsenzoll Hoisbüttel Buckhorn Langenhorn Nord Langenhorn Markt U2 Fuhlsbüttel Nord Hohenneichen Kornweg Berne Ohlsdorf Sengelmannstr. Bremen. Wartenau Lohmühlenstr. Wandsbek-Gartenstedt Kellinghusenstr. Legienstr. Barmbek Wandsbeck Ost Alter Teichweg Eppendorfer Baum Borgweg U3 Friedrichsberg HoheDehnhaide Straßburger Straße Klosterstern luttHamburger Str. Halstenbek Krupunder S21 Hagensbeck Tierpark Niendorf Markt Eidelstedt Ost Hagendeel Elbgaustraße A1 Eidelstedt Stellingen Wedel Rissen Iserbrook Emilienstr. Alsterdorf Lattenkamp U2 Alte Wöhr Habichtstr. Pauli Landungsbrücken Messehallen Gän. Baumwall Dammtor Step. Sta. Mön.

stylish hotel in a late-19th-century building sits on a quiet residential street near the Aussenalster lake. and restaurants. offers rooms with panoramic views of the river and harbor. which becomes Schmilinskystrasse). or 040/ 35050. Rates include buffet breakfast. The hotel has a fitness center with pool and sauna and can arrange baby-sitting. V. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk south on ABC Strasse). If you arrive without a room. Schmilinskystrasse 11. The building was restored and converted into a hotel in 1979. See map p. plus an intimate. Hamburg’s tourist information office in the main train station can help you find accommodations (see “Finding information. Rates: 129€–155€ ($161–$194) double. well-regarded restaurant. especially in the center of the city. MC. 20099 Hamburg. shops. See Chapter 22 for details on the Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ($$$$). originally built in the mid 19th century as a home for sailors. AE. The hotel can arrange baby-sitting. % 800/228-9290 in the U. DC. The 227 rooms are priced according to size and degree of The well-done bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. 20354 Hamburg. Aussen Alster $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This small. The 27 midsize rooms are minimalist in terms of décor but very comfortable and meticulously maintained.” earlier in this chapter). The bathrooms are small with shower-tub combinations. 176. Hotel Hafen Hamburg $ –$$$ St. Fax: 040/3505-1777. a fashionable area filled with boutiques. DC. and today consists of three adjacent buildings with a total of 255 rooms. You find an onsite sauna and solarium.aussen-alster. the Schmilinsky. www. You also find hotel-booking desks at the airport. MC. V. Rates: 199€–279€ ($248–$349) double. the hotel features an array of business-oriented in-room Geared toward business travelers. You will usually find special weekend rates and promotional offers on the hotel Web site. Fax: 040/2803231. Rates include Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Staying in Hamburg Hamburg is an expensive city with plenty of first-class hotels and a limited number of budget accommodations. 176. ABC Strasse 52. % 040/241-557.S. AE. Hamburg Marriott $$$$ Central Hamburg This large. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk east on Steindamm and west on Stiftstrasse. See map p. Pauli/Harbor area This Hamburg landmark. The rooms vary . traditionally styled hotel is near the Hanse Viertel. wine bars. www.

hyatt. 176.hotel-hamburg. The large bathrooms have a separate area for Japanese-style soaking tubs. See map p. but staying here is definitely a memorable experience. and a fine-dining restaurant called Apples (see “Dining in Hamburg. 176. Drehbahn 49. % 40/309-990. 20459 Hamburg. Park Hyatt Hamburg $$$$ Central Hamburg One of the most beautifully designed hotels in Hamburg. Fax: 40/ 3332-1235. Some rooms have private bathrooms with showers. The third and fourth floors are nonsmoking. The neighboring ship-shaped Hotel Residenz. Lots of wood and warm-toned fabrics adorn the 252 spacious rooms. Fax: 40/3099-9399. the 178 good-sized rooms are quiet and comfortable. AE. Hotel Side takes high design to new heights. See map p. V.side-hamburg. % 040/311-130. Amenities include a health club with pool. But the double rooms are of a decent size and have an old-fashioned comfort of their own. MC. and Lübeck 183 in size. Fax: 040/31113755. was built in 1995. MC. Rates: 190€–265€ ($237–$295). the largest pool in Hamburg. V. DC. www. Bremen. traditional. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. Breakfast: 22€ ($27). 176. DC. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Dammtorstrasse and west on Drehbahn). Rates: 100€–200€ ($125–$250) double. A stark white and steel high-tech minimalism is offset by dramatic. www. the Hyatt occupies a former trading house from 1912 that was transformed into a hotel in 1998. but most are large with updated modern furnishings. others have showers . 20095 Hamburg. A terrace on the eighth floor opens onto panoramic views of Hamburg. glowing colors and contemporary furniture placed as carefully as sculptures. AE. AE. Breakfast: 13€ ($16). DC. 20354 Hamburg. You won’t find anything fancy 13: Hamburg. all have wellequipped bathrooms with a shower-tub combination.” later in this chapter). Built around a central atrium. Seewartenstrasse 9. Rates: 209€–310€ ($261–$387) double. Hotel Side $$$$ Central Hamburg Opened in the spring of 2001. Breakfast: 18€ ($22). % 040/3332-1234.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (then a 7minute walk north through the small park outside the station to Seewartenstrasse).hamburg. You may find a bit of attitude. Pension Helga Schmidt $ Central Hamburg This small. MC. V. See map p. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). The luxurious bathrooms have a tub-shower combination. U-/S-Bahn: the Hafen’s modern sister hotel. This full-service hotel has virtually every amenity you can imagine. 17-room pension sits right across the street from the superdeluxe Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg (Chapter 22) and costs a fraction of the price.

corned beef. See map p. Apples Restaurant $$$ –$$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL Centered around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven. you have to climb 55 steps. onions. % 040/280-83-90. or oven-roasted duck. salmon. DC. Rates: 108€–165€ ($135–$206) double. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). and to reach rooms on the third floor. Main courses: 23€–31€ ($29–$39). They range in size from small to medium and are individually decorated with modern and 6–11 p. Appetizers may include ostrich carpaccio or red curry soup. you usually find lobster. Gurlittstrasse 23. % 040/280-8900. fresh oysters. V. potatoes. 176. Open: Daily 6:30 a. shrimp. AE. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north on Holzdamm). As a main course.wedina. herring. and pickle — which is a hearty. and eel (Aalsuppe. V. 20099 Hamburg. Fax: 040/280-3894. you may find grilled lobster.t-online. Rate includes breakfast. % 040/33321234. Tuscan-style garden. 176. The smallish bathrooms have a shower-tub combination. AE. The place is hip without being pretentious. Apples is the showcase restaurant of the Park Hyatt Hamburg. See map p. AE. saddle of pork. The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. Reservations required. Come here for an elegant evening out. is a compote of red fruits served with vanilla ice cream or cream. Fresh specials of the day also are available. See map p. . Wedina $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This recently remodeled hotel is in three different buildings painted three different colors (red. Rote Grütze. a local dessert specialty. turbot. Traditional meat dishes include Stubenküchen (hamburger steak) and Labskaus — made with beer. sole. 176. V.m. DC. Rates include buffet breakfast. In the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Rates: 58€ ($72) double without bathroom. blue. In the morning.m.184 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany only and you share a bathroom. MC. and yellow). is a famous Hamburg dish). 20099 Hamburg. features fresh. DC. organically grown produce. MC. plaice. fixedprice menu 50€ ($62). Holzdamm 14. or eel soup. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north along Koppel Strasse to Gurlittstrasse). On the menus of the city’s many fish restaurants. protein-packed dish that sailors and dockworkers order. The menu. you can enjoy breakfast in the privacy of your room. Dining in Hamburg It shouldn’t come as any surprise that most of Hamburg’s traditional cuisine comes from the sea. which changes according to seasonal availability.m. Fax: 040/243-705. 68€ ($85) double with bathroom. Most of the 42 rooms open onto a www. www.–2:30 p. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. Pancakes (Pfannkuchen) with cranberries or other fruit toppings are popular. char-grilled turbot and peppers.

The cafe roasts its own coffee beans. jacket potatoes with sour cream and crab or other fillings. The restaurant serves four or five hot dishes of fish and meat buffet-style at lunchtime. which becomes Friedensallee). and Lübeck Cremon Weinkeller $ Harbor area NORTH GERMAN 185 If you want to eat lunch with the locals. See map p. 176. % 040/3904-606. Sun 10 a. Main courses: 5€–7. You can eat on the balcony overlooking the shops or in the wood-paneled dining room. meat. See map p. a platter with crab. Die Rösterei $ Central Hamburg LIGHT MEALS/BREAKFAST/DESSERTS Located in the shopping arcade attached to the Park Hyatt hotel. southern France. or afternoon coffee. Bremen.40–$11). Popular offerings include breast of duck with caramelized cherries.m. to midnight.m.m.m.–9 p.m. For breakfast. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. and 6 p. sausages. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and northwest on Bahrenstrasse. Friedensallee 9. this barrestaurant is a good place to try. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Mönckebergstrasse). Eisenstein $$ –$$$ Altona INTERNATIONAL The menu in this hip Altona restaurant. a light lunch. No credit cards. and bread and butter.25–$9. Fischküche Karin Brahm $$ –$$$ Harbor area SEAFOOD This pleasant fish restaurant in a modern building has a bright dining room and outdoor tables. . Cremon 33–34. homemade pastas. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 10-minute walk east on Kajen and north on Cremons). and the service is no-nonsense. and croissants. Open: Daily noon to 3 p. traditional versions of North German cuisine. and Italy. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. No credit cards.50€ ($6. you can order eggs. cheese. The food is robust. cold cuts. 176. includes specialties from Thailand. Reservations recommended. Main courses: 8€–26€ ($10–$32). fixedprice lunch 14€ ($17). salmon.50€–9€ ($4. Main courses: 9€–12€ ($11–15). Mönckebergstrasse 7. Luncheon offerings usually include chicken and fish dishes plus daily specials and several different salads. % 040/3039-3735. and fresh. MC.Chapter 13: Hamburg.–10 p. % 040/362-190. From the below-street-level location.50) per dish. 176. Breakfast: 3. V. with a minimum of fuss. Japan (including sushi and sashimi).m.. See map p. and saltimbocca. this casual cafe is a good place to stop for breakfast. housed in a former tram station.m.m. Typical offerings include goulash with noodles. a cold buffet is available in the evening. you can see the Nikolaifleet canal from the windows. particularly fresh Atlantic fish. fixed-price dinner 26€ ($32). and the Cremonteller.–9 p. so you can get a cappuccino with your afternoon Kuchen (cake).

Main courses: 11€–15€ ($14–$18). % 040/365-631. Melange $ –$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL With tables tucked along the canal under the fancy shopping arcade that lines the Alsterfleet canal (across from the Rathaus). Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. changes daily. too. an international mix of French. 176. the main courses are more than enough.–2 a. See map p. the fresh sole. MC. U-Bahn: Rathaus (then a 3-minute walk south on Grosse Johannisstrasse). step up to the herring buffet featuring many different condiments and sauces. V.–2 a. UBahn: Jungfernstieg (then a 5-minute walk north along Neuer Wall to Schleuseenbrücke). . Main courses: 17€–25€ ($21–$31). you may try the avocado salad with herring or some crostini. DC. V. Choices may include different kinds of clear or creamy fish soup.186 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The menu changes all the time. Italian and modern German. % 040/364-153. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). % 040/3750-3434. AE. 176.m. Reservations recommended. a mixed fish platter. Open: Daily 8 a. Main courses typically include pasta offerings such as tagliatelle with ragout. Sun 5:30 p. Neuer Wall 31 (in the Neuen Alsterarkaden). to midnight. herring filets on black bread with onions. (Indoor dining is available yearround. Open: Mon–Fri noon to midnight. And the outside tables are great for people-watching.m. See map p. Don’t bother with appetizers.. and breast of chicken with basil and mushrooms. or codfish with potatoes and onion. wood-paneled columns. Try the halibut steak in curry sauce. flounder with spaghetti and lemon-butter sauce. Sat 6 p. If you don’t like fish.m. Le Paquebot $$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL In warm weather. vaulted ceilings. AE. I like it because you can order something as simple as a salad but they also have good daily specials.m. you can choose from other dishes such as chicken breast in a green rice crust or turkey curry. zander filet with creamy sauerkraut.m. but on a nice day nab a table outside). Ratsweinkeller Hamburg $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg HAMBURG/INTERNATIONAL In business since 1896. MC. 176.) The menu.m.–6 p. Most of the young wait staff speak English. Kajen 12. you can sit outside on the square and enjoy a good meal at this quietly stylish restaurant and bar. See map p. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 3-minute walk west to Kajen). MC. 176. depending on the catch of the day. and large stained-glass windows. Grosse Johannisstrasse 2.m. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 70. the Ratsweinkeller Hamburg has high. or the Hamburg crab soup. AE. this cafe/bistro/bar is a chic but casual spot to stop for lunch or an early dinner (you can eat inside. See map p. Or. Reservations recommended. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk across Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz). V. % 040/326-519. For starters.

. a larger body of water ringed by fine villas. which becomes Friedensallee). Sun 11 a. DC. Meat and fish dishes typically include entrecôte (boned rib steak) with mustard sauce.m.–10:30 p.Chapter 13: Hamburg. windsurfers. Walking paths and parkland surround the 7km (4 miles) of shoreline. Closed holidays. The Alster consists of the Binnenalster. and panoramic views of the Hamburg skyline. including a windjammer parade. No credit cards. Voltaire Bistro $$ Altona INTERNATIONAL This pleasant. and hundreds of booths. fireworks. scampi. when the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa issued an edict granting free-trading privileges to Hamburg. 176. 176. U-Bahn: Hallerstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Hallerstrasse to the park).–4 p. Main courses: 9€–14€ ($11–$17). rabbit with sweet-and-sour sauce. % 040/397-004. wild duck with plum sauce. inner lake with canals running south to the Elbe. Italian. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. one of the largest in the world.. excursion ferries. Voltaire also has a good wine list and live jazz on most evenings. and Lübeck 187 Main courses: 11€–31€ ($14–$39). Alster Lake Sailboats. The menu borrows from French. fixed-price menus 30€–45€ ($37–$56). Hafen (Harbor) Hamburg is probably most famous for its busy harbor. The dining room is a high-ceilinged brick-walled room with big windows and a bistrolike atmosphere. reasonably priced restaurant is across from Eisenstein (see the listing earlier in this section) in the popular Altona area. features beautiful trees. flower gardens. Damming the meandering Alster River created the lake in 1235.m. Hamburg is not a city with many world-class cultural attractions. Exploring Hamburg Surprisingly enough. which covers 175 acres on the northwest banks. See map p. The city still commemorates the event every year in early May with three days of huge harborside celebrations. Friedensalle 14–16. MC. AE.m. Alsterpark. Open: Daily 6 p. with coq au vin and spaghetti with mushroom sauce available every day. You also find many different salad choices.m. V. and herring.–1 a. and canoes ply the waters of this lake that forms the watery heart of central Hamburg. and the Aussenalster.m. a smaller. and German cuisine. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and north on Bahrenstrasse. Bremen. See map p.m. Sightseeing usually centers on the giant harbor and picturesque Alster Lake. Its official history dates back to 1189.

offers daily 50-minute trips that depart about every half-hour.50€ ($ 3. there is a giant network of quays. Piers 1 through 9.m. Am Anleger Jungfernstieg (% 040/357-4240. ATG-AlsterTouristik. warehouses. including works by Philipp Otto Runge and Caspar David Friedrich. to 5:30 p. where the Elbe splits into two arms. to 4 p. Max Beckmann. noon. and 1:30 and 3 p.m. Dazzling works by late-19th. and Paul Klee are found in the Klassische Moderne (Modern Art) rooms. The harbor is an open tidal port.abicht. de). you find works by Meister Bertram. The same company offers boat tours of Hamburg’s canals and along the Elbe. .and early-20th-century artists Edvard Munch. www. The cost for the tour is 10€ ($13) for adults and 5€ ($6.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (the harbor is right across the street).m. from November through March. This former East Indies windjammer is open daily from 10 a.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken. to 6 p.25) for children younger than 16. The ships leave from the Jungfernstieg quayside (U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg). floating landing stage where you can embark on boat tours of the harbor. from 10 a. a 19th-century clipper ship.m.m. Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum) Northern Germany’s leading art museum displays works in four different areas. U-Bahn: St.m. in which the North Sea tides influence the water level of the Elbe River.75) for adults.188 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Seeing the Alster by boat You can tour both inner (Binnen) and outer (Ausser) Alster by boat. 176.m. The best way to see the port and all its activity is by taking a guided harbor tour. Ernst Kirchner. See map p. Tourist activity centers around the St. and Canaletto.. Just southeast of Hamburg. and drydocks. now a museum of maritime history. Docked just east of the landing stage at Pier 1 is the Rickmer Rickmers (% 040/319-5959). Emil Nolde. Rubens. 6€ ($ leave from St.m. 2. Claude Lorrain. Allow yourself at least two hours to see everything on view. www... Admission is 3€ ($ 3. Saturday and Sunday only from 10:30 a. tours depart daily at 10:30 a. The 75-minute trip costs 10€ ($13) for adults.50) for children. April through October. a long. The 19th Century galleries display an outstanding collection of German Romantic paintings. from November through March.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken.10) for children ages 4 to 12.alstertouristik. Tours depart from April through October daily every hour from 10 a. A brochure and cassettes with a description of the tour in English are available at no additional cost. In the Alte Meister (Old Masters) galleries. to 6 p. Excursion boats operated by Rainer Abicht (% 040/3178220.m. The Galerie der Gegenwart (Contemporary At Gallery) displays art created since 1960.m.

25) adults.m.–6 p. Bremen.–1:15 p.–6 p. you need to bring records with you that indicate the approximate date that your ancestors left Germany. To use the service. Pauli (then a 2-minute walk east across Millentordamm). The Alsterarkaden..–3:15 p. Tours (in English): Mon–Thurs hourly 10:15 a. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (exit at Hauptbahnhof Nord.50€ ($11) adults.25) children. which stands back to back with the Rathaus.m.).m. 0. The Rathaus’s 49m-tall (160-ft. and noon. Scale models show the changing face of the port. You can combine a visit to the Rathaus with a stop at the 16th-century Börse (Stock Exchange). % 040/4283-12063. See map p. Admission: 8. built in the late 19th century on a foundation of oak pilings. See map p. The museum’s office of historical emigration contains passenger lists of all the people who shipped out of Hamburg from the 1850s to about 1930..50) adults. U-Bahn: Rathaus. is the largest of the old buildings in the Altstadt.m.m. Glockengiesserwall 1. Tracing your German ancestry The Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (see the listing above) is especially worth a visit if you have German ancestors and want to do genealogical research. is an arched passageway with upscale clothing shops. Open: Tues–Sat 10 a. and boutiques. Tours of the Rathaus and the Börse last about 30 to 45 minutes. Admission: 7. and reconstructed period rooms — from the hall of a 17th-century merchant’s house to an air-raid shelter from WWII — illustrate the different eras in Hamburg’s history. across the canal. Rathaus (Town Hall) Hamburg’s then a 2minute walk north on An der Kunsthalle). 176.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Rathausplatz. 176. You can visit the interior of this Renaissance-style structure with its 647 rooms on a guided tour. Adolphsplatz 1 (% 040/3613020). Give yourself about an hour to browse through the exhibits.m. 5€ ($6.m. . % 040/4281-32-2380. Admission: Rathaus tour 1€ ($1. % 040/428-131-200. U-Bahn: St. On record are hundreds of thousands of emigrants’ names including the names of the cities and towns in which they originated. free for children under 18.50 (65¢) children.hamburgmuseum.m. www.m. Sun 10 a.) clock tower overlooks Rathausmarkt and the Alsterfleet.–5 p. (Thurs until 9 p.50€ ($9.m. jewelry stores. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (Hamburg History Museum) This museum provides a portrait of Hamburg from the 8th through 20th centuries. www. and Lübeck 189 See map p.m. Guides conduct free tours of the Börse on Tuesday and Thursday at 11 176 Holstenwall 24. Fri–Sun hourly 10:15 a.m. the city’s largest canal.hamburgerkunsthalle.

a baroque organ built in 1693 by Arp Schnitger. The famous Hamburg Fischmarkt The Hamburg Fischmarkt (fish market). 176. Hamburg’s last remaining 17th-century brick-and-timber almshouses. in existence since 1703. Admission: Church free. completed in 1762.190 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany St.50€ ($11) children ages 4 to 16. Take the elevator or climb the 449 steps to enjoy the sweeping view from the top. Besides fish. entrance on Steinstrasse.m. Krayenkamp 4C. .m. in winter). This zoo in the northwest suburbs offers sea-lion and dolphin shows. a master craftsman whose instruments were played by Johann Sebastian Bach. Hamburg’s zoo is home to about 2. like so many other buildings in Hamburg. is a famous Hamburg landmark and the principal reason to visit. Admission: Free. Michael’s Church) Constructed of brick. is one of the finest baroque churches in northern Germany.–5 p.25€ ($1. which have been made into art galleries. St. See map p. plants.50€ ($3.m. Hagenbeckallee at Steilingen. 176. fruit.m. and pets at this traditional market. James’s Church) WWII bombings almost completely destroyed the 13th-century Gothic St.. www.m. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. Admission: 15€ ($18) adults.–6 p.m. 1. The rebuilt church contains several medieval altars. The tower. Jakobikirchhof 22. A restaurant serves fixed-price meals for 9. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Jakobikirchhof). and sculptures. you can buy flowers. one of the largest in Europe. Open: Daily 9 a. Michael’s.10) adults. de. with its hammered-copper roof. See map p. between Hexenberg and Grosse Elbstrasse (U-Bahn: St. % 040/327-744.–5 p.m. Michaelis (St. % 040/540-0010. The crypt.m.m.m.m. contains the tomb of composer Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach. the rest of the year. to noon. vegetables.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken). Give yourself about 15 minutes to visit the church and tower.m. U-Bahn: Hagenbeck’s Tierpark. Jacobikirche (St.500 animals.50€ to 14€ ($ 12–$ 17) from 11:30 a. tower 2. in summer or from 7 a. a train ride through a fairyland. See map p. One block to the south of the church are the Krameramtswohnungen. The nearby taverns are open to serve Fischmarkt visitors and vendors.. Open: Daily Apr–Sept 9 a. (until 4:30 p.–5 p. in addition to one of Hamburg’s musical treasures. James’s is one of only two surviving Schnitger organs in Germany. pictures. % 040/3767-8100. The 60-register organ at St. and a spacious children’s playground. St. 176. takes place every Sunday from 5 a. Jacobikirche.60) children. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke (then a 10-minute walk west on Michaelisstrasse). Oct–Mar 10 a. Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Founded in 1848. Michaeliskirchplatz.m. Sun 10 a. children younger than 3 free. elephant and camel rides. 8. to closing.hagenbeck.

Alsterhaus.m. Karstadt. restaurants.m. one of the world’s leading opera houses. Planten und Blomen (Plants and Flowers). miniature trees. and winding pathways. Landesbank-Galerie (% 040/337-124. The Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden). The Kleine (small) and Grosse (large) Wallanlagen parks contain many recreational facilities. A miniature railway connects all four parks. the first Sat of the month). Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 48. run parallel to the canals. to 6:30 p. (until 4 or 6 p. and an ice-skating rink in winter. Stores are generally open Monday through Friday from 9 a. Bremen. Shopping in Hamburg Hamburg is a big shopping city.m. on langer Samstag. is part of a departmentstore chain that carries many of the same brands and items as the other leading department stores. is known for its rare plant specimens and greenhouses filled with tropical flora. available at tourist Living it up after dark in Hamburg To find out what’s happening in Hamburg. carries more-fashionable merchandise.Chapter 13: Hamburg. From the Hauptbahnhof. Jungfernstieg 22 (% 040/359-011). to 2 p. See map p. and Lübeck Wallringpark 191 Four beautifully maintained parks and gardens comprise this greenbelt area west of the Altstadt and Alster Lake. contains the largest Japanese garden in Europe. at tourist offices. Dammtorstrasse 28 (% 040/35-68-68. 176. hotels. on Thursday) and on Saturday from 9 a. S-Bahn: Dammtor). including a rollerskating rink. Mönckebergstrasse 16 (% 040/30940). These streets contain some of the city’s less expensive stores. connected transversely by Jungfernstieg and Ufer Strasse on the Binnenalster. playgrounds. with rock gardens. Less expensive is Kaufhof.m. Admission: Free. www. is the home of the . but don’t expect to find many bargains.hamburgische-staatsoper. south of Planten and Blomen. laid out in 1936. and newsstands. two major shopping streets fan out in a southwesterly direction toward the Rathaus: the pedestrian-only Spitalerstrasse and Mönckebergstrasse. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse). U-Bahn: Dammtor (the station is at the southeastern corner of the park). which offers better deals on merchandise markdowns. Two of the city’s oldest and most prestigious shopping streets. pick up a copy of the monthly Hamburger Vorschau. The performing arts Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). flowering plants. Mönckebergstrasse 3 (% 040/333-070). (some until 8 p. You can buy tickets at venue box offices. or any kind of local specialty or handicraft. or through the service Theaterkasse Central. Grosse Bleichen and Neuer Wall.m.

too. a dance club for 20. depending on the band.englishtheatre.192 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg State Opera and the Hamburg Ballet. Hamburg has dozens of theaters. Saturday. a giant beer hall. beer halls. Lerchenfeld 14 (% 040/227-7089. Wednesday and Sunday and at 11 p. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). you can call him or her from the phone on your table. to 3 30-year-olds. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). The Musikhalle. is one of the hottest dance clubs in Hamburg. ߜ Cotton Club. from September to April. and to 6 a. www. the oldest and best established of the Hamburg jazz clubs. The following list gives a small sampling of bars. Today this cultural institution is a free-for-all venue with acts that change nightly. Grosse Freiheit 36 (% 040/317-7711. Johannes-Brahms-Platz (% 040/35-68-68. it’s also open Sunday from 11 a. to 4 a. U-Bahn: Mundsburg).m. Pauli district. chamber orchestras. plays host to concerts by the Hamburg Symphony. and live-music venues: ߜ After Shave.25–$182). the only English-speaking theater in the northern part of Germany.m. The club is open year-round Monday through Saturday from 8 p. If someone catches your fancy. Thursday. Thursday to Sunday and has no set closing time. ߜ Club Grosse Freiheit.m. Pauli. ߜ Molotow. . The club. Cover is 5€ to 25€ ($6. free admission for women Friday and Saturday after midnight. Cover is 5€ to 9€ ($6. Ticket prices range from 5€ to 146€ ($6. and fusion. features funk. Tickets range from 7€ to 25€ ($8.m.25–$11). S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke). The hall is open daily from 7 p. Reeperbahn 10 (% 040/314-281. the Hamburg Philharmonic.m.m. bar. ߜ Bayrisch Zell. One exception is the English Theatre of Hamburg.m. The club is open from 11 p. Cover charge is 4€ to 15€ ($5–$19). is one of the most popular places in the St. attracting singles and couples young and old.25–$31).S. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). and music scenes Hamburg is famous for its nightlife. in St.m. Spielbudenplatz 7 (% 040/319-3215. dance clubs. in addition to performances by choirs. and the NDR Symphony. with meals ranging from 5€ to 15€ ($6. nightclubs. The ticket office is at Grosstheaterstrasse 34. to 5 a. and guest artists. U-Bahn: Messehallen). to 3 a. jazz.m.m. features jazz and Dixieland bands from throughout Europe and the U. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). but you need to understand German to enjoy the productions.50–$17). The club opens at 9 The food is okay. Ticket prices vary from program to program. Friday. Cover is 2€ to 14€ ($2. Spielbudenplatz 5 (% 040/31-08-45. especially if you’re into funk.25–$19).75–$31). Alter Steinweg 10 (% 040/343-878. is where The Beatles performed in their earliest days. soul. to midnight.

inside erotic theaters. Pauli’s streets. bars. like Berlin. who set up shop with the legal sanction of municipal authorities. admission is 8€ ($10). Friday and Saturday from 10 a. The name literally translates as “Rope Street” and refers to the nautical rope produced there during the 18th and 19th centuries. bars. Please note that women are not welcome on Herbertstrasse. The free magazine Dorn offers one of the world’s more unusual walking tours.. metal gates block each end of the street. is one of the major gay centers of Europe. which includes a glass of schnapps at tour’s end. lists the city’s many gay and lesbian clubs. called Hafen und Huren (Harbors and Whores).” is known for its erotic theaters. where bordellos line both sides of the street. The museum is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a. Many of the prostitutes who work there today are licensed and must submit to a medical examination every two weeks. You must reserve in advance. along a half-mile thoroughfare called the Reeperbahn (pronounced ray-per-bahn. Pauli is a place to visit at night. The district’s sexrelated bars and theaters are up and running by 8 p. at the corner of Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit. Pauli district. Historical Whores Tours (% 01805/125-225. to 2 a. St.Chapter 13: Hamburg. and restaurants (although I don’’t recommend dining in this area). and the women display themselves behind plate-glass windows. restaurants. to midnight.hurentours. the 90-minute walking tour takes you to various places around the harbor and tells the whore’s side of the story. Led by a professional guide dressed as a 19th-century Hamburg prostitute (the costume is not what you’d call sexy). and events. Nobistor 10A (% 040/3178-4126). or overt solicitation. distributed at most gay and lesbian bars. Grosse Freiheit.m.m. and you do find all kinds of theaters (mostly for musicals and comedies). and may even be doused with a bucket of water if they enter. The most famous street besides the Reeperbahn itself is Herbertstrasse. just west of the center.m. a street whose name appropriately translates as “Great Freedom. Gay and lesbian clubs Hamburg. Bremen. and Lübeck 193 St. with a dense concentration of gay shops.. Pauli and the Reeperbahn: For adults only Commercialized sex is a major tourist attraction in Hamburg. had become a hangout for sailors and prostitutes. cabarets. bars. Municipal regulations forbid prostitution. discos. which is close to Hamburg’s great harbor. and cafes along Lange Reihe just northeast of the train station (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). St. Herbertstrasse is open only to men older than 18. The district also contains the Erotic Art Museum. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). . the museum presents its displays and changing exhibits in a way that’s both academic and titillating. cost is 20€ ($25) per person.m. The place where it all hangs out is the St. By the mid-1800s. thousands of “working girls” strut their stuff along the Reeperbahn and through St. Pauli. www. The area is not exclusively devoted to sex. Between midnight and 5 a. Open to those older than 16.

194 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
A Side Trip: Bremen
Bremen, 120km (75 miles) southwest of Hamburg, has a history that dates back some 1,200 years. (See the “Bremen” map in this chapter.) Located on the Weser River, which flows to the North Sea, it already was a significant port when it was made an Episcopal see in 787. During the Middle Ages, Bremen was one of the strongest members of the Hanseatic League, and in 1646, it became a Free Imperial City. Silting of the Weser led to the establishment of Bremerhaven, Bremen’s deepwater port at the mouth of the Weser, in 1827. With a population of about half a million people, Bremen is the second-most important foreign trade location in the Federal Republic, after Hamburg. Although it’s mostly an industrial city that was badly damaged in WWII, enough remains in old Bremen to make for an intriguing daytrip from Hamburg.

Getting to Bremen
By train, the trip time from Hamburg is less than an hour. For train information and schedules, call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). If you’re driving, Bremen is a major junction on the A1 Autobahn between Hamburg and the Rhineland. Bremen Flughafen (Airport; % 0421/55-950) has flights from major cities in Germany and Europe.

Finding information and taking a tour
Bremer-Touristik-Zentrale (% 01805/10-10-30; www.bremen-tourism. de) operates tourist information offices at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station; open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat–Sun 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.). A second branch at Obernstrasse/Liebfrauenkirchhof also is open Monday to Friday 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. If you decide to stay overnight in Bremen, this office will help you find a hotel or pension. Guided bus tours, conducted in German and English, depart Tuesday through Sunday year-round at 10:30 a.m. from the Central Coach Station (Rank M) just behind the tourist information office at the main train station. The tour lasts two hours and costs 15€ ($19) for adults and 9.50€ ($12) for children younger than 13. Guided walking tours, with Englishspeaking guides, depart daily at 2 p.m. from mid-May to early October, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. in January and February, from the tourist information office at the main train station. They last two hours, and cost 6.50€ ($8), free for children younger than 13. Buy your tickets at the tourist office.

Dining in Bremen
The Ratskeller below Bremen’s Rathaus, Am Markt (% 0421/32-16-76), is a wonderfully atmospheric place to try North German regional specialties such as Bremer Festtagsuppe (a beef consommé with meatballs, noodles, and vegetables), Bremer Fischtopf (diced salmon, haddock, and red snapper in a vegetable stock), herring with sour cream and roasted

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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potatoes, and Flammkuchen, a pizzalike dish with mushrooms, herbs, and cheese. This is also a good place to try a Probierportion (sample portion) of Labkaus, a delicious corned-beef hash mixed with pickled herring, topped with a fried egg, and served with dill pickles and beets. The adjoining restaurant, Vor dem Bacchus, serves fresh fish. Main courses go for 10€ to 22€ ($13–$27). The restaurants are open daily from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. See map above.




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196 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Exploring Bremen
Bremen’s main sights are in the Altstadt, clustered around Marktplatz (Market Square), the center of Bremen life for more than a millennium. Most of the compact oval Altstadt, with the Weser River along the south side and the Stadtgraben canal on the north, is a pedestrian zone and can easily be explored on foot. Recent restoration work has brightened up the center and its many historic buildings. From Bahnhofsplatz in front of the train station, head south to Herdentor and the bridge that crosses the Stadtgraben canal. To your right, in the Wallanlagen, the pretty parkland along the canal (formerly the city wall stood here), you’ll see a large Dutch-style windmill. At one time, more than a dozen windmills operated in this area. At the beginning of Sögestrasse (Sow Street), a bronze swineherd and a herd of bronze sows and piglets commemorates the street where medieval butchers kept their pigs. A short walk south brings you to the Marktplatz, where a 15th-century sandstone statue of Knight Roland, the city’s protector, stands guard beside the Rathaus. Bremen’s impressive three-story Rathaus (Town Hall; % 0421/36-10) has been standing on the Marktplatz for 600 years and was untouched by the bombing raids of WWII. The main Gothic structure was built in 1405, but in 1612 the upper section of the facade was redone in what is known as Weser Renaissance style. (Weser Renaissance, a term applied to architecture created in and around the Weser River valley between 1520 and 1620, is characterized by ornate decoration on classically proportioned buildings.) Inside, the upper hall with its beautifully carved early-17thcentury oak staircase and mural of The Judgment of Solomon (1537), was used as council chamber and courtroom. You can visit the Rathaus on 45minute guided tours Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m., noon, 3 and 4 p.m., and on Sunday at 11 a.m. and noon. Admission is 4€ ($5) adults, 2€ ($2.50) children and students. You can dine in the historic Ratskeller beneath the building (see “Dining in Bremen,” earlier in this section). Walk around to the west end of the Rathaus to see Bremen’s most famous characters, the Bremen Town Musicians from the Grimm’s fairy tale of the same name. Local artist Gerhard Marcks created the bronze sculpture of a donkey, dog, cat, and cock in 1951.

Chocolate lovers take note
Hachez, a famous Bremen chocolatier founded in 1890, occupies a charming 18thcentury patrician house near the Rathaus. The shop, Stoevesandt-Diele, Am Markt 1 (% 0421/50-90-00), is a chocolate-lover’s emporium where you can find sweet specialties such as chocolate champagne truffles.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


Bells are ringing on Böttcher Street
Böttcherstrasse, running from Marktplatz to the Weser River, is one of the most architecturally intriguing streets in Germany and one of Bremen’s most noteworthy attractions. Ludwig Roselius, a rich Bremen merchant who invented decaffeinated coffee, paid for the construction of the redbrick buildings that line the street, which was dedicated in 1926 and rebuilt after World War II. Part of the narrow brick-paved street was built in an avant-garde German expressionist style; the other part was meant to look more traditionally medieval. The street is lined with shops, crafts workshops, restaurants, two museums, and galleries. Time your visit to hear the carillon of bells made of Meissen porcelain. Every hour between noon and 6 p.m. (Jan–Apr at noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m.), they play a tune for a full 15 minutes as a sequence of woodcarved panels in a revolving tower tells the story of transatlantic aviators.

Directly opposite the Rathaus stands the Schütting, a 16th-century guild hall today used by the chamber of commerce (not open to the public). Adding a modern architectural touch to the ancient square is the Haus der Bürgerschaft, constructed in 1966 and home of Bremen’s Parliament. Free 20-minute tours of the building are given Monday to Friday at 2 p.m. At the southeast end of the Marktplatz, towering majestically over the entire Altstadt, is St. Petri-Dom (St. Peter’s Cathedral), Sandstrasse 10–12 (% 0421/36-50-40), originally constructed in 1043 as the archbishop’s church and rebuilt in the 16th and 19th centuries. Other than the 12thcentury bronze baptismal font in one of the Romanesque crypts there is not much of exceptional interest within the cathedral, which is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday 2 to 5 p.m. From Easter through October you can climb to the top of the cathedral towers for a panoramic view of the Altstadt. The Dom Museum (Cathedral Museum; % 0421/365-04-41) displays artifacts discovered during a restoration of the cathedral in the early 1970s, including vestments found in archbishops’ graves and 15th-century wall paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder. More interesting than the museum is the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), reached by going outside and around to the side of the cathedral. It contains a bizarre collection of mummified corpses — 16th- and 17th-century lords, ladies, students, and soldiers, plus a cat and a monkey — whose leathery bodies were found in graves beneath and around the cathedral. Admission for the cathedral museum and the Lead Cellar is 1.50€ ($2) for adults, 1€ ($1.25) for students and children; both are open the same hours as the cathedral, but the Lead Cellar is closed November to Easter. The Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum, Böttcherstrasse 6–10 (% 0421/ 336-5077), is dedicated to Bremen’s outstanding painter (1876–1907) and contains many of her best works, including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

198 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Admission is 5€ ($6.25) for adults and 3€ ($3.75) for children. With the same ticket, you can visit the nearby Museum im Roselius Haus (same address, phone, and hours), a 16th-century merchant’s home filled with Ludwig Roselius’s collection of medieval art and furniture. Böttcherstrasse leads to the Schlachte embankment along the Weser River. The riverside promenade is lined with taverns and restaurants and is the locale of the Weserflohmarkt (Weser Flea Market), open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Schlachte embankment also is where you find guided boat trips (in German only) around the harbor. Boats depart from the landing in front of the Martinikirche (St. Martin’s Church) every day from April through October at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. on a voyage that lasts about 75 minutes. The cost is 8.50€ ($11) for adults and 4.50€ ($5.50) for children. A five-minute walk southeast from the Schlachte brings you to the charming albeit touristy Schnoor district, Bremen’s oldest surviving quarter. The 16th- and 17th-century cottages in the Schnoor once were the homes of simple fishermen. In an effort to revive old arts and crafts, they’re now rented to artists and artisans. Sightseers visit not only for the atmosphere but also for the unusual restaurants, shops, and art galleries.

Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own
Seven Gothic church spires rise above the picturesque town of Lübeck, located 66km (41 miles) northeast of Hamburg in the state of SchleswigHolstein. (See the “Lübeck” map in this chapter.) Along the ancient streets of its Altstadt, you find more buildings from the 13th to the 15th centuries than in any other city in northern Germany. Most of the buildings, including the churches, are fine examples of the redbrick architecture so characteristic of northern Germany. The city’s architectural heritage is so rich that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) placed Lübeck on its World Heritage list of international monuments. UNESCO bestows World Heritage status to places judged to have exceptional cultural and historic value. From the 13th century on, Lübeck was capital of the Hanseatic League, the powerful association of merchants that controlled trade along the Baltic as far as Russia. The town still retains the name Hansestadt Lübeck. Lübeck makes a rewarding daytrip from Hamburg, less than an hour away by train, but its charms may beguile you to stay overnight. With its enormous churches, high-gabled houses, massive gates, and historic buildings at every turn, Lübeck is a delightful city to explore.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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200 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Lübeck’s Nobel sons
Lübeck has had several famous sons, notably Thomas Mann and Willy Brandt. As a young man, Brandt (1913–1992), who later became West German chancellor and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971, opposed the Nazis so vehemently that he had to flee on a boat to Norway. The Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck at 21 Königstrasse is in the process of being restored and is expected to open in 2007. The writer Thomas Mann (1875– 1955) used his hometown of Lübeck as the setting for his novel Buddenbrooks, which catapulted the 27-year-old author to international fame in 1902. In 1929, Mann won the Nobel Prize for literature. The Buddenbrookhaus (described in “Walking through Lübeck,” in this chapter), which belonged to Mann’s grandparents, is a place of literary pilgrimage for fans of Mann. Günter Grass, author of The Tin Drum, won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1999. Although he was not born in Lübeck, he lives nearby. The relationship between Grass’s literary output and his artwork is explored in the permanent exhibits at the Günther Grass House, Glockengiesserstrasse 21 (% 0451/1224231;, which opened in 2002. Here you can see some of Grass’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures. Grass unleashed a torrent of criticism in 2006 when he revealed, in advance of the publication of his autobiography, that he had served in the Nazi Waffen SS at age 17; some critics suggested the Nobel Prize committee should revoke Grass’s prize. The museum is open daily April through October from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., November through March 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults, 2.20€ ($2.75) students and children.

Getting there
By train, you can reach Lübeck from anywhere in Germany or Europe. Dozens of trains arrive daily from Hamburg, only 40 minutes away. For train schedules and information, call German Rail (% 11861) or visit their Web site ( By boat, you can take a passenger or car ferry service between Denmark (the port of Rødbyhaven) and Lübeck (the port of Puttgarden). ScandLines (% 04371/865-161; offers daily departures. TT Saga Line (% 04502/80181; operates between the German port of Travemünde and the Swedish port of Trelleborg. By car, you can reach Lübeck via the A1 Autobahn north and south.

Finding information and taking a walking tour
In the train station, Touristinformation Hauptbahnhof (% 0451/864675) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m. The Lübeck und Travemünde Tourist Service Welcome Center, Holstentorplatz 1 (% 01805/882-233; 0.12€/15¢ per minute;, across from the Holstentor Museum, is open January through May and October through November, Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


3 p.m.; June through September and December, hours are Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. This office can help you with hotel reservations. Two-hour walking tours (6€/$7.50) of the historic city depart from the Holstentor tourist office Monday through Saturday at 2 p.m. (additional walks at 11 a.m. July–Sept) and on Sundays year-round at 11 a.m.

Orienting yourself
The Trave and Wakenitz rivers and other waterways encircle Lübeck’s Altstadt, an oval-shaped island a little more than a mile long and less than a mile wide. Eight bridges connect the old town with greater Lübeck on the mainland. Only about 12,000 residents (out of about 225,000) live on the island, which is where all the major attractions are located.

Getting around Lübeck
The Altstadt and all the major attractions can be reached on foot from the train station. You also can take buses 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, or 16 from the train station into the Altstadt. The fare is 2€ ($2.50). A fun and relaxing way to see Lübeck is by water. Excursion boats operated by MAAK-Linie (% 0451/706-3859; leave from docks on the Trave River just north of the Holstentor. In summer, departures are hourly between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (11 a.m.–4 p.m. the rest of the year). The trip (commentary in German with English text available) lasts one hour and encircles the entire Altstadt. Cost is 7€ ($8.75) for adults, 5.50€ ($7) for seniors, and 3€ ($3.75) for children.

Staying in Lübeck
Lübeck offers a full range of hotel options, from small inns and pensions to modern facilities. To enjoy the ancient, atmospheric charms of Lübeck, I recommend that you choose a hotel in the Altstadt. The Lübeck and Travemünde Tourist Service (see “Finding information and taking a walking tour” earlier in this chapter) also can help you find a room.

Special events in Lübeck
The Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival, one of the best music festivals in Germany, occurs in Lübeck (which has a famed music school) with performances from early July until the end of August every year. For more information, call % 0800/7463-2002 or log on to A popular Christmas market featuring handmade wares from all across northwestern Germany takes place during the three weeks preceding Christmas.

202 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Klassik Altstadt Hotel
$ –$$ Altstadt
If you want to stay in a smaller, older hotel in the Altstadt, Klassik Altstadt Hotel is a good choice. The 28 individually decorated rooms, all named for famous Lübeckers, have a pleasant, traditional style. Most of the bathrooms have showers; a few have tubs. The on-site restaurant is good and moderately priced. See map p. 199. Fischergrube 52, 23552 Lübeck. % 0451/702980. Fax: 0451/73778. Rates: 77€–130€ ($96–$162) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

Radisson SAS Senator Hotel Lübeck
$$$ Altstadt
If you want a modern, full-service hotel, the Radisson is the best place to stay. A pedestrian bridge connects the hotel from its riverside location to the Altstadt. The 231 medium-sized rooms are attractively furnished. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Amenities include an on-site health club with pool, sauna, and steam rooms, and a computer in the lobby that enables you to check your e-mail. Children up to age 12 stay for free in their parents’ room. See map p. 199. Willy-Brandt-Allee 6, 23554 Lübeck. % 800/333-3333 in the U.S. or 0451/1420. Fax: 0451/142-2222. Rates: 160€ ($200). AE, MC, V.

Dining in Lübeck
As you may have guessed, fresh seafood from the North and Baltic seas is featured on the menus of many restaurants in Lübeck. In this section are a few good restaurants where you can dine well in historic surroundings.

Historischer Weinkeller
$$ –$$$ Altstadt
The Historischer Weinkeller, located beneath the 13th-century HeiligenGeist-Hospital (see the “Walking through Lübeck” section next), is an excellent and atmospheric restaurant with an international menu. You can choose from several different fixed-priced menus, including a summertime “lübsche Gasterei” (Lübeck hospitality), a seven-course medieval feast. You may begin with smoked Norwegian salmon, gooseliver pâté, or a fishbased soup. Entrees range from filet of cod with sauerkraut and poached haddock in a mustard sauce to meat dishes and vegetarian choices. Note: This restaurant is divided into two sections, the Kartoffelkeller (potato cellar) and the Weinkeller (wine cellar); of the two, the Weinkeller is the more pleasant place to dine. See map p. 199. Koberg 8. % 0451/76234. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($18–$25). Fixedprice menu 25€–40€ ($31–$50). AE, MC, V. Open: Daily noon to midnight.

m. 199. 199. According to legend. fixed-price menus lunch 18€–22€ ($22–$27). Breitestrasse 98 (% 0451/53010). An English-language menu is available to help guide your choices. V. As a starter.m. followed by fresh fish from the Baltic Sea. but approximately 1. Walking through Lübeck Concentrate your sightseeing in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt. you can purchase bars and boxes of Marzipan to take away (an excellent gift idea). The fish here is excellent and recommended. Main courses: 15€–23€ ($18–$29).000 medieval buildings still stand within a 5-sq. In the front dining room. located right across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806. MC. and 6–11 p. Try the crab soup. See map p. stop in at Cafe Niederegger. Niederegger’s is open daily from 9 a. Ristorante Roberto Rossi im Schabbelhaus $$ –$$$ Altstadt Occupying two elegant town houses on a lovely medieval street.-mile) area around the . MC. the wine list is excellent. Lübeckers ran out of flour during a long siege and started grinding almonds to make bread. and the tasting menus are good value for money. there’s a lighter. Open: Daily 10 a. decorated with wooden ship models hanging from the ceiling. and the staff is friendly and professional. if available. which comes with three different kinds of fish. Schiffergesellschaft $$ –$$$ Altstadt A popular spot for tourists and locals alike. or you can go upstairs to the pleasant cafe for dessert and coffee. They were so pleased with the sweet results that they’ve been making Marzipan ever since. % 0451/76776. The atmospheric dining room overlooks a small garden. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. Bremen. this historic restaurant is a good place to enjoy regional specialties. Then I’d recommend the fish plate. order “herring three ways” on black bread.m. dinner 39€–57€ ($49–$71).m. you sit at wooden tables lit by candlelight. surrounded by the Trave River and its canals. more modern dining room behind it. You also can get pasta dishes such as tagliatelle with fresh mushrooms or with salmon and lemon. On the ground floor.Chapter 13: Hamburg. AE. The service is attentive. AE. About one-fifth of the Altstadt was destroyed in a 1942 bombing.-km (2-sq. especially fish.m. Mengstrasse 48–52. a sweet almond paste. To sample Lübeck’s famous Marzipan. Main courses: 8€–25€ ($10– $31). and Lübeck 203 The sweet side of Lübeck Lübeck is the world capital of Marzipan. Breite Strasse 2. to 6 p. V. to midnight. % 0451/72011. Schabbelhaus serves good Italian cuisine and some classic North German dishes. See map p. Reservations recommended. all delicious.

3. You can see the interior on a guided tour (in German) Monday through Friday at noon and 3 p. Builders used brick as the predominant material for houses.m. to 6 p. churches. What follows are the stops on a walking tour of the Altstadt that begins at the Hauptbahnhof (train station). 1€ ($1.25) for students and children under 18. a group of six gabled Renaissance buildings. Schüsselbuden 13 (% 0451/397-700). and vegetable stalls every Monday and Thursday. across the street from the Holstentor. with stops at museums. fruit.204 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Marktplatz. The Rathaus stands on the north and east sides of the Marktplatz. takes about four to five hours. or single-sail vessels). shops. Merchants stored salt (considered “white gold”) from nearby Lüneburg in these buildings before shipping it to Scandinavia. After you enter the Altstadt. Here you’ll find the new tourist Welcome Center and the newly revamped Museum Holstentor (% 0451/122-4129). Mary’s Church).75) for adults and 1.50€ ($2) for children and students. you reach Lübeck’s Rathaus.m. the newest from 1745. a large square filled with meat. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. to 6 p. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. the cost is 3€ ($3. The Rathaus was rebuilt several times since the first foundation stone was laid in 1230. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. The building sits on brick arcades that allow easy access to the main entrance on Breite Strasse.m. the Markt is the site of Lübeck’s famous Christmas Market. and medieval torture instruments. directly in front of you is the 15thcentury Holstentor (Holsten Gate). and guild halls.. Continuing a few blocks east on Holstenstrasse. models of Hanseatic Kogge (cogs. In December.. Just south. the oldest dates from 1579. 1. You can see everything in less than 30 minutes. is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The bridge got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its stone railings. The Marienkirche served as a model for many . Black glazedbrick courses (horizontal lines) and round panels emblazoned with coats of arms adorn the redbrick walls. one of the oldest and most beautiful city halls in Germany. once the main town entrance. stand the Salzspeicher (Salt Lofts). 2. From the train station. a local history museum housed within the gate and contains a model of Lübeck as the town appeared in the mid 17th century.m. Towering above the Markt and the Rathaus is one of northern Germany’s most outstanding examples of the brick Gothic style. The entire walk. 4. topped by slender turrets. The present building. the twin-towered Marienkirche (St. cross the Puppenbrücke (Dolls’ Bridge) and head east into the Altstadt. Rathausplatz (% 0451/122-1005). The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures.m. where the salt was used to preserve fish.

m. whose works include Death in Venice.m. 8. admission is 7€ ($9) for adults. plan to spend at least half an hour at Buddenbrookhaus. On the second floor are period rooms and artifacts. If you’re a fan of the great German writer Thomas Mann. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter for more information. At Glockengiesserstrasse 25. At Königstrasse 21. former West German chancellor and Nobel Peace Prize winner.Chapter 13: Hamburg. also displays major 20th-century artists such as Leon Kirchner.. Mann’s brother. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. to 5 p.m. Bremen. to 5 p. just north of the Marienkirche. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter. Organ concerts take place during the summer and fall. Max Beckmann. left as a reminder and warning of the horrors of formed from two 18th-century town houses. you find a comprehensive collection of photographs. and Lübeck 205 other churches built in the Baltic region. Its central nave.60€ ($6) for students. the source of the movie The Blue Angel. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. was the author of Professor Unrat. . Heinrich Mann (1871–1950). 4. is the Füchtingshof. Königstrasse 9–11 (% 0451/122-4148). a few blocks north of the Rathaus. Inside. you find the Günther Grass Haus museum. and documents chronicling Mann’s life.) and you enter a tranquil courtyard with houses still occupied by widows. letters. from birth to death. the tower bells crashed down into the church and embedded themselves in the stone floor. Next door.. 6. just to the south of the Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus.25) for students and children 6 to 18. and that of his family. and Ernst Barlach.m.m. is in the process of being restored and will become the Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck. an almshouse built in the 17th century for the widows of seamen and merchants.m. 36m (120 ft. to 6 p. 7. stone-and-stucco house with a gabled roof belonged to Mann’s grandparents and was the model for the family home Mann wrote about in Buddenbrooks. to 6 p.m. Dietrich Buxtehude (1637–1707). www. The museum. solid. Mengstrasse 4 (% 0451/122-4192.m. This big. and has exhibits relating to the city’s cultural life in the 18th and 19th centuries. at Glockengiesser 21. to noon and 3–6 p. 1€ ($1.buddenbrookhaus. 9.m. The Magic Mountain. and Buddenbrooks. During a WWII bombing attack. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. They still are there. the childhood home of Willi Brandt. 5. has the highest brick vaulting in the world. Step through the ornamented baroque portal (open 9 a. for information. carrying on a tradition established by St.) high.. the rest of the year from 11 a. Mary’s best-known organist and composer. An outstanding collection of German Romantic and German Impressionist paintings is on view at Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. The house is open daily April through October from 10 a.

is one of the oldest social-welfare institutions in Europe. including a work by Hans Memling. the museum has a noteworthy collection of medieval and Renaissance altarpieces.m. 11. You can see everything in about half an hour. with its belfry and four turreted spires. 130 tiny wooden cabins without ceilings were built within its enormous main hall.-Annen-Museum. are the city’s oldest almshouses. 49–51. In the early 19th century. open Tues–Sun 10 a. to 6 p.). 41. Schmiedestrasse (% 0451/397330). the church is open daily from 9 a. To round off your tour of Lübeck. you’ll sometimes see medieval redbrick buildings decorated with black glazed bricks.m. you find Lübeck’s Dom. Peter’s Church).50€ ($3) for adults.206 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany White gold and black bricks In Lübeck and in other cities in northern Germany. From March through September. Mühlendamm 2–6 (% 0451/74704). to 6 p. at nos. Construction on this massive edifice began in 1173. at no.m. This building. and take the elevator up to the top of its tower for a memorable view of Lübeck and its port. Two blocks northeast of the Dom. when the building was converted to a shelter for elderly men and women. the church itself isn’t that interesting. On the south side of town. The church was destroyed in WWII and later rebuilt. Except for its size. A short distance to the north stands the Heiligen-Geist-Hospital (Hospital of the Holy Spirit). The black glaze comes from salt being sprinkled on the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder.m.–5 p. Housed in a 16th-century Augustinian convent that was later used as an almshouse and a prison. 1€ ($1. 14. and the Glandorps-Hof.m. 13. The building is open daily from 10 a. to 7 p. 1€ ($1.25) for students and children.25) for students and children 6 to 18.m. head over to the 750-year-old Petrikirche (St.m. you find the St. (Salt was considered “white gold. The Glandorps-Gang. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. Admission is 2. .. and you can poke your head inside them (no admission charge. Am Koburg (% 0451/122-2040). St. to 6 p. The cabins remain intact.-Annen-Strasse 15 (% 0451/122-4137).m. Philanthropic local citizens founded the hospital in 1230. dating from 1612 and built for the widows of merchants and craftsmen. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. 12.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. and one of the most important monumental buildings of the Middle Ages.m.”) 10.

historic buildings. Perhaps the most important celebratory event was the reopening of the famous domed Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). located 198km (123 miles) south of Berlin and 111km (69 miles) southeast of Leipzig.” and renowned for its architecture and art treasures — and hopes to become again.Chapter 14 Dresden. are the largest cities in Saxony. Narrow.) The cities of Dresden and Leipzig. In Saxony. author of Faust) and the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006. winding roads lead through spruce-covered hills to unspoiled villages that waft you back to the Middle Ages. Weimar. and Weimar: Jewels of the East In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Dresden and its famous museums ᮣ Discovering old and new Leipzig ᮣ Enjoying the beautiful town of Weimar ᮣ Remembering the past at Buchenwald axony and Thuringia (Thüringen in German) are side-by-side Länder (states) in eastern Germany that are well worth visiting. and musical heritage. Dresden became the most important city in Saxony when the ruling Wettin . Both states are rich in sightseeing possibilities. destroyed in the bombings of World War II (WWII). Leipzig. famed for its river scenery. the mighty Elbe River flows through an area near Dresden known as Saxon Switzerland. The Frauenkirche is a symbol of what Dresden once was — a city known as “Florence on the Elbe. (See the “Saxony and Thuringia” map in this chapter. S Dresden: Florence on the Elbe Dresden. Thuringia is considered the “green heart” of Germany because the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) covers much of its southern portion. is the cultural jewel in Thuringia’s crown. with their outstanding museums. associated with Goethe (Germany’s greatest writer.

The easiest and least expensive way to get into the city center is by the Flughafen S-Bahn (airport train). A taxi from the airport to the center of Dresden costs about 16€ ($20). Under the rule of Elector Augustus the Strong. in the reopened portion of the Residenzschloss (palace). call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861. and a good road network. including the Airport S-Bahn. Dresden emerged as the top contender for tourists in the former East Germany. lies 9km (51⁄2 miles) north of the city center. Dresden flourished as one of the great cultural centers of Europe. frequent train service. The reconstruction of the Frauenkirche. the station on the north side of the river. although some trains.bahn. is used more for regional trains. the preeminent personality in the town’s history. Then came the night of February 13. or visit their Web site www. More than a dozen trains make the daily trip from Berlin (2–21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (41⁄2 hours). the beautiful old core of the city. 1945. the city airport. when Allied firebombs destroyed three-quarters of Dresden’s Altstadt. This major city has an airport. By plane Flughafen Dresden (% 0351/881-3360. at Schlesischer Park. is the most ambitious reconstruction effort in the entire country and marks an important stage in Dresden’s recovery. Getting there Getting to Dresden is easy.70€ ($2). Dresden has two main rail stations. After reunification. Dresden-Neustadt. Historic buildings have since been rebuilt. within walking distance of Altstadt (Old Town). www. For rail information and schedules. All long-distance trains pull into the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Around it you find nearly all of Dresden’s major attractions.208 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Dynasty decided to make the city its capital in the late 15th century.dresden-airport. Many visitors come just to visit the museums in the Zwinger Palace and to see the treasures of the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). Lufthansa and other international carriers provide regularly scheduled service between Dresden and cities throughout Germany and on Wiener Platz on the south side of the Elbe. but the work has taken decades. which runs from the airport to the two main train stations. stop at both stations. using original plans and even some of the original stone (bombed pieces of which were found in the Elbe). You can buy your ticket at the S-Bahn window in the underground station beneath the new By train Getting to Dresden by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe is easy. . The trip takes about 20 minutes and costs 1.

Leipzig. and Weimar 209 Saxony and Thuringia 0 0 20 km 20 mi N 103 Airport E251 E28 POLAND E26 E55 167 A11 Eberswalde d e r O AN Y Berlin SAXONYANHALT 107 102 5 273 A10 E55 GERM THURINGIA Brandenburg Potsdam E51 A115 Berlin E55 A12 E30 189 Area of Detail E30 2 A13 87 Magdeburg El 81 71 A9 E51 102 Lübben Lübbenau bbenau be R iv Wittenberg er 187 Dessau E55 A13 2 87 101 97 6 91 Quedlinburg Eisleben 6 80 Halle Leipzig A14 Meissen Dresden 173 4 93 88 A4 E40 Buchenwald 7 Erfurt To Eisenach Dornburg Weimar Jena A4 E40 2 Altenburg E55 Chemnitz 174 E441 Arnstadt Th ür in ge Plauen E442 r E49 4 W al d E51 Hof E49 E48 Karlovy Vary 6 Coburg 279 C Z E C H 27 R E P U B L I C A70 E48 21 E49 Bayreuth A93 22 Bamberg A73 To Nuremberg Plzen E50 E50 .Chapter 14: Dresden.

its main streets. On the north side of the river is Dresden-Neustadt. and ferries in Dresden and admission to all the top museums. Service is limited after midnight.dvbag. and Sunday (Schinkelwache only) 10 a. maintains an extensive system of bus and tram lines within the city and far out into the suburbs. The city’s transport authority. to 4 p. Prager Strasse. Hellerau. You also can buy theater. Pretty 19th-century houses reconstructed to hold shops. is the main thoroughfare (and site of the main tourist information office). and the Semper Opera House. The A4 comes in from Leipzig and Bavaria (eventually the A4 will connect Dresden to Prague). You can buy the Dresden Card at the tourist information centers. The Dresden Card is good for 48 hours on all trams. % 0351/857-1011. Saturday 10 a. and restaurants line Hauptstrasse and Königstrasse. and boat tours in the Dresden area.m. The hours for both are Monday through Friday 10 a. www. opera. On the south side. you can easily get around on foot. Four exits (Altstadt. and cafes. at Theaterplatz Square. boutiques. you find all the major cultural attractions. and Wilder Mann) lead into the center. the Zwinger Palace museums. but the major lines continue to operate every hour. hotels. You also get reduced prices for other museums. Germany’s reunification triggered a real estate and reconstruction boom in this picturesque neighborhood of art galleries. between the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) and the river.m.m.. www. . to 4 p. including those in the Zwinger and the Albertinum. apartments. Prager Strasse (% 0351/491-920.m.m. The cost is 19€ ($24).. including art museums.210 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany By car The A13 Autobahn connects Dresden to Berlin. Neustadt. churches in the Altmarkt (Old Market) and Neumarkt (New Market) squares. Dresdner Verkehrsbetriebe ( Orienting yourself The Elbe River divides Dresden more or less in half. Trying to find a parking spot in the center of Dresden isn’t easy. and restaurants. city tours. Finding information At the Information Center. the newly restored Frauenkirche. to 6 p. I recommend that you park on the outskirts and travel to the city center by bus or tram. The same services are available at the Information Center located in the Schinkelwache (Old City Guard House). dresden-tourist.m. you can book a hotel room and purchase a map of Dresden and information booklets in English. or concert tickets. Getting around Dresden If you plan to visit only the historic center of Dresden. buses. near the main train station. The highways run along the west side of the a wide pedestrian street lined with shops.

25 km ag se bu ienMar cke brü ra Ter ss e Albertstrasse sse e ss H au p chs tra tst Frie dri St ra ras er 0 2 sse nig Kö rasse 1 st N ra nuf st rit z 4 3 rd Wiga 18 Carolaplatz sb Köbisplatz se 22 21 20 Sachsenplatz Elb e stras er e s r tra aufe ts Ostr vrien e D ss ei e 5 se Ost W ss ert Alb ücke br zs er it nn Ko ustu ing Aug ei ert Carolsbrüc ch rück e ACCOMMODATIONS Art'otel 5 Hilton Dresden 13 Hotel Bülow Residenz 1 Hotel Martha Hospiz 2 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe 18 Westin Bellevue 3 tra raalle Elbe Ter rass enu fer Fr.-HeckertPlatz Sc h we ras se Marie Freib erge r Str asse Postplatz 9 Wilsd ru Schloß E hst hrlic rasse 10 15 17 16 18 19 ffer S trasse strass rine r St 7 8 e An ne ss St ra tra Georgplatz sse -Ring Dr. Leipzig.-Külz sse ausstra h n e Wais se er rfs Stü rg nd o er S et er s St Prag Chapter 14: Dresden.P Zin ze Berlin tras bu Hamburg Gün be lal lee Sternplatz ALTSTADT sse Lingnerplatz Blüherpark Bl herpark Grosser Garten tzst e DINING Ayers Rock 14 Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen 22 Café Schinkelwache 8 Café zur Frauenkirche 15 Fischgalerie 4 Freiberger Schankhaus 19 Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) 6 Luisenhof 21 Rossini 12 Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais 9 ke Ros tr en s sse rS tra rass ae onst as se Webergasse Pirnaischer Platz G r un e Amm r n st nstra e Sac hsa Zw Am Zwinger Pond i 11 12 13 14 Theater6 platz Rathenauplatz Dürerstrasse Pilln itzer llee ass e Stra sse rass e .25 mi 0. and Weimar ra ATTRACTIONS Albertinum 17 Frauenkirche 16 Grünes Gewolbe 10 Katholische Hofkirche 11 Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst 18 Standseilbahn 20 Zwinger 7 Church Information Railway Hauptbahnhof Dresden au e ch ss tti e Lu rass nga e st d Lin B 211 Munich lüh e Wiener Platz Le nn e am Main rst Frankfurt i str iese erw Bürgkstrasse Par sse as se GERMANY Dresden i .M de rg 0 0.

Buy your tickets at a tourist information center. located a bit out of the center of the Altstadt. to 7 p. www.. A one-day Tageskarte (day pass) costs 4.212 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The city is divided into fare zones. Art’otel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt The six floors of this dramatic postmodern tours from Thursday through Sunday. adjacent to the Augustusbrücke (Augustus Bridge) and covers both sides of the Elbe.m. a walk through the city’s historic center.dvbag. If you want to stay here. costs 5. offers a daily 90-minute Super Dresden Tour (Grosse Stadtrundfahrt).m.m.50€ ($7) for children.m. Double rooms have bathrooms with stainless-steel sinks and a shower. including the lovely Loschwitz neighborhood. DVB (% 0351/8571011. a guided (audio headsets for English translations) bus tour that leaves from Schlossplatz. see Chapter 22.50€ ($7). An English-speaking guide accompanies the 1 and 3 p. and 3:30 p. The price is 18€ ($22) for adults. to 6 p. and costs 10€ ($13). 1 p. Staying in Dresden Since reunification and the amazing increase in tourism. The paddle-wheel steamers depart from the Terrassenufer quay below the Brühlsche Terrasse (embankment) along the south bank of the river and travel upstream to Loschwitz and back again. A single ticket for the bus or tram costs 1.. unless you’re visiting the outskirts of Dresden. The cost is 11€ ($14) for adults. A Familientageskarte (family day ticket). The 174 goodsized bedrooms are stylish and comfortably chic without being pretentious. both are open Monday through Friday from 7 a. book your room ahead of time.70€ ($2) for a one-hour ride anywhere in Zone 1. or at DVB service centers inside the Hauptbahnhof or at Postplatz. and 5 p.m. free for children 14 and younger. Seeing Dresden by guided tour Stadtrundfahrt Dresden (% 0351/899-5650. Validate your ticket (by stamping the ticket in a machine) upon entering the bus or tram. to 3 p.m. 5. are the “artiest” of any hotel in Dresden. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a. and so has the demand for rooms. Purchase your tickets and a transportation map from the vending machines (marked “Fahrkarten”) outside the train stations. This tour departs from Postplatz daily at 11 a. You can hop on or off the bus at any of 22 points along the way. 3 p. Buses leave every half-hour from 10 a.stadtrundfahrt..50).m.m.. You find a small gym and sauna on the premises. offers a one-hour Historical City Tour (Historischer Stadtrundgang).m. good for two adults and up to four children in one zone. you only need a one-zone ticket. Dresden’s hotel prices have soared.m. Buy your tickets at the kiosk on the quay.m.m. . For a description of the beautiful new Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe. Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt (% 0351/866-090) offers daily 90-minute boat trips along the Elbe from May into October at 11 a.50€ ($5.

Fax: 0351/800-3100. Rates: 130€ ($162) double. The 50 rooms have a 211. Rähnitzgasse 19. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). Westin Bellevue $$$$ Neustadt The 339-room Westin Bellevue is located near the most attractive part of the Elbe River. Michelin-starred Caroussel Restaurant serves fresh French cuisine with a Mediterranean influence (main courses 25€–35€/ $ 31–$ 44). The hotel’s elegant. You find a pool. Baby-sitting can be arranged. Leipzig. Hotel Martha Hospiz $$ Neustadt Managed by the Association of Christian Hoteliers (VCH). 211. V. See map p. Rooms are midsize and somewhat short on style but well-maintained. www.hilton. http://marthahospiz. The staff is unusually friendly and helpful. V. % 0351/49220. % 0351/80030. www.artotel. on the north bank of the Elbe River. 01067 Dresden. DC. Rates: 250€ ($312) double. Fax: 0351/817-6222. 01097 Dresden. 14: Dresden. this luxury boutique hotel is housed in a building that dates from 1730. Ostra-Allee 33. AE. See map p. are on the small side. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. MC. Each of the 30 spacious rooms is laid out differently and furnished with modern designer and reproduction Biedermeier 211. MC. and Canada. modern décor and are well-maintained. MC. fitness club. Rates include buffet breakfast. Nieritzstrasse 11. and many of the rooms have lovely river and Altstadt views. each with a shower. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. Fax: 0351/864-2725. See map p. Fax: 0351/492-2777. The large marble-tiled bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. % 0351/81760. DC. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). V. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. 211. MC. 01067 Dresden. www. AE. DC. % 800-445-8667 in the U. Rates include buffet breakfast.dresden. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. expensive. AE. and Weimar 213 See map p. Rates: 160€–215€ ($200–$269) double. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. this simple but comfortable four-story hotel is a 15-minute walk from the heart of Dresden’s Altstadt. or 0351/86420.S.buelow-residenz. Bathrooms. and sauna on the premises. Rates: 140€–250€ ($175–$312) double. 01097 Dresden. V. Hotel Bülow Residenz $$$$ Neustadt One of the finest restorations in Neustadt. . An der Frauenkirche 5. Hilton Dresden $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This 333-room hotel across from the Frauenkirche is one of the best (and largest) in eastern Germany.

m. V. you can eat and drink to the sounds of an oom-pahpah band. AE. The bathrooms have shower units or shower-tub combinations. Waldschlösschen beer is brewed on the premises. Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen $ –$$ Neustadt GERMAN Some 250 diners can fit into the dining rooms in this newly built replica of an old-fashioned beer hall. Children younger than 18 stay for free in their parents’ room. On Saturday and Sunday afternoons.–3 a.m.50€–17€ ($11–$21). sautéed fish with parsley and onions. . the narrow lane that runs north from the Frauenkirche to the river. Open: Daily 11 a. AE. Dining in Dresden Dresden is bursting with new restaurants of every kind. www. DC. Menu items include kangaroo rump steak. V. Tram 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). and salads.m. Main courses: 8. Am Brauhaus 8B. or 0351/805-1733. wander down Münzgasse. AE.S. you can walk across the river to the Altstadt in ten minutes. Neustadt (5km/3 miles northeast of city center). grilled lamb cutlets. 01097 Dresden.m. DC. Ayers Rock $ –$$ Altstadt AUSTRALIAN This likable Australian restaurant with outdoor tables is famous for its cocktails but also serves German and Aussie beer on tap. You find an on-site pool and health club. soups. MC. % 800-937-8461 in the U. Rates: 250€–350€ ($312–$437) double. riverside park stretches behind the hotel.214 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The rooms are large. In 1995. For a sample of the city’s culinary offerings. As the night wears on. See map p. The menu features heaping plates of traditional favorites such as roast pork shank. 211. % 0351/490-1188. and another 800 can be accommodated within the sprawling beer garden (open Apr–Oct). V. and roasts. and comfortable. Münzgasse 8. grassy. sausages. MC. DC. and Canada. Schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). Open: Daily 10 a. Grosse Meissner Strasse 15. Fax: 0351/805-1749. MC. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. ostrich the bar area becomes a crowded singles scene. % 0351/811-990. Café Schinkelwache $ –$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL This sandstone structure in the center of Theaterplatz was built in 1832 by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel to house soldiers and guards. A green. 211. 211. Tram: 11 to Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). See map p.–1 a. See map p. grilled salmon. Tram: 9 from the Hauptbahnhof stops in front of the hotel at Neustädter Markt. well-appointed. if not spacious.

is a good place to perch for a casual meal or dessert and coffee. and veal stew. Tues–Sat 6–11 p. An der Frauenkirche 5. Main courses: 9€–18€ ($11–$23). served with black bread. and pork goulash with cabbage and dumplings. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. cheese. 14. or 17. Fischgalerie $$ –$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD The interior of Dresden’s best fish restaurant is a sophisticated affair with an open-view kitchen. minimalist design. and Saxon sauerbraten (marinated roast beef). 211. Main courses: 14€–24€ ($17–$30). Tram: 1. V. AE. a bowl of Linseneintopf (lentil stew).Chapter 14: Dresden. to midnight. or coffee. Sophienstrasse am Theaterplatz. Leipzig.25). Open: Daily 10 a. . 11. Reservations recommended. 7. located directly across from the Frauenkirche. Maxstrasse 2. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Freiberger Schankhaus $$ Altstadt SAXON/GERMAN This place. The menu typically has dishes such as grilled lamb cutlet with asparagus and sauce béarnaise. crepes with mushrooms and chicken. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). and a blueblack color scheme. with its outside terrace overlooking the newly restored Frauenkirche. See map p. is a good place to sit outside and eat or have a drink. AE.m. The menu changes every week. % 0351/490-3909. AE. Fresh oysters and marinated herring.m. scampi. You can also sit and enjoy wine. Café zur Frauenkirche $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This street-side corner cafe. pastas such as rigatoni with chicken breast. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 3 p. or chicken breast fricassee with mustard. MC. Fresh sushi is available on Wednesday and Friday nights. dramatic lighting. You can order a salad with turkey strips. 12. or bouillabaisse with North Sea fish. Accompany your meal with a glass of Freiberger Preminium Pils. are good appetizers. 4..m. 2. % 0351/490-3506.50–$6. 8. Fresh seafood dishes may include salmon with champagne sauce. See map p. a baked dumpling filled with cheese and raisins. beer.m. V. soups. 211. Pastries: 2€–5€ ($2. and white fish served with tomato-flavored spaghettini. The menu offers simple but delicious Saxon staples such as a Saxon potato fritter with cheese and strips of smoked salmon. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. MC. See map p.–2 a. For dessert try the homemade Quarkkeutchen. and Weimar 215 the building was rebuilt and reconfigured into an intimate cafe with outdoor tables on the terrace (you find a tourist information center around the other side).50€–12€ ($8–$15). Open: Daily 9 a. meal-size salads. Menu selections include pastries. and Worcestershire sauce. V. % 0351/498-9836. Main courses: 6. MC.m. 211.

Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. See map p. MC.m. DC. Pastries: 4–6. MC. You can order dishes such as grilled rabbit with thyme or trout fried in butter. The Café. The Bierkeller (beer hall) with a painted ceiling serves traditional dishes such as Sauerbraten (pot. See map p. once housed Italian workers. called Dirndls. wild boar. dress-up. Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais $$ Altstadt GERMAN The food in this famous cellar restaurant is a modern approximation of a medieval feast. Flickering candles set beneath vaulted ceilings provide suitable atmosphere. V. See map p. Each of the four restaurants has a different theme. MC. red-walled Weinzimmer (wine room). Taschenberg 3. Open: Daily 6–11:30 p. one floor above the lobby of the Dresden Hilton. Theaterplatz. MC.m.–1 a. An der Frauenkirche 5 (in the Dresden Hilton).–11 p. % 0351/864-2855. AE.or oven-roasted marinated beef). DC. For dessert try the tiramisu with bananas or sorbet with champagne and fruit. “August’s Hunting Trophy”: roasted medallions of venison. Open: Daily 11 a. V. as does the formal. AE. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25).m. and juniper sauce. . Main courses: 19€–29€ ($24–$36). Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) $$ Altstadt ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL This quartet of restaurants in a neoclassical building. % 0351/497-260. serves dishes such as risotto with artichokes and radicchio and veal scaloppini. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Bellotto. 211. DC. 211. V. Menu items may include homemade ravioli with arugula and cheese. or lamb with applewine sauce and polenta.50€–15€ ($8–$18). % 0351/500-4347. an upscale Italian eatery on the top floor with an outdoor balcony overlooking Theaterplatz. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.m. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. a graceful-looking room with windows that overlook the river. The restaurant has a menu in English to help you make up your mind.m. 211. Open: Daily 10 a. 211. is a good place for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). and so do the waitresses in their traditional German dresses. Neumarkt 8 (in the Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe). Open: Daily 11 a. veal in thyme sauce with tomato fettuccine. Main courses: 6.m. AE. to midnight. Rossini $$$ Altstadt ITALIAN Rossini offers fine Italian cuisine in a stylish. completely smokefree setting. V. Reservations recommended. or you may want to try the famous house specialty. erected on the site of a cluster of cottages (“the Italian Village”).50€ ($5–$8). served with asparagus and roast potatoes. % 0351/498-160. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.216 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. AE.

a funicular that began operation in 1895. Bergbahnstrasse 8 (% 0351/214-9960). The restaurant accepts MasterCard and Visa. Take the funicular to the top. the Neustadt quarter has Germany’s largest concentration of houses from the Gründerzeit (Biedermeier. 4€ ($5) children and seniors. the historic center. Main courses go for 10€ to 17€ ($12–$22).m. starting with moody works by Caspar David . take Tram 8 to Schillerplatz and walk across the famous Blaue Wunder bridge. for 10€ ($13) adults. easy.–2 p. the Neues Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). For more information on all of Dresden’s major museums. described under “Finding Information. the Saxon King Albert converted this former royal arsenal into a home for his vast collection of art and precious jewelry. Across the street from the station is Luisenhof. is a rich collection of 19th.Chapter 14: Dresden.75) round-trip. is another money-saving option that includes all public transportation.m. and memorable dining experience. take one of Dresden’s old funiculars (mountain railways) up to the top of a hill in the suburb of Loschwitz and dine in a pleasant restaurant overlooking the city. www. and Weimar 217 Dinner with a view For a fun. The Dresden Card. The funicular runs from 6 a. a restaurant with an outdoor terrace offering wonderful panoramic views of the Elbe River and Dresden in the distance. de. Leipzig. a residential area called Weisser Hirsch. to 9 p. you’ll see the Standseilbahn. but relax with a glass of beer or wine and enjoy the view of Dresden’s spires. early 19th-century) period.m. The collection concentrates on German art.skd-dresden.and 20th-century art.).m. visit the Web site of the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden (State Art Collections).m. The German/Saxon menu features traditional dishes such as potato soup with sausages. and costs 3€ ($3. The service can be slow. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. taking up two floors. The Neustadt quarter on the north bank of the Elbe is another area you may want to visit.m. On the other side.” earlier in this chapter. Sunday from 10 a. and the Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (all described in this section). First. Albertinum Altstadt Between 1884 and 1887. to midnight (brunch 10 a. The Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery). to 1 a.. Exploring Dresden You find all of Dresden’s major attractions in the relatively compact Altstadt. at Trachtenbergerstrasse 40. and Sauerbraten with cabbage and dumplings.m. A money-saving Tageskarte (day ticket) gets you into all four museums in the Zwinger complex. Although you won’t find the museum attractions of the Altstadt here.

gold jewelry. and all your belongings must be checked before entering). Currently closed.. enjoy one of the 3 p. featuring a larger selection of the collection (no tours allowed. The Historic . step inside the brilliant white interior to admire the immaculate restoration work. to noon and 1–6 p. including the Frauenkirche. Even better. see the Web site. ivory carvings. this dazzling selection of highlights will more than satisfy your curiosity.m. The Neues Grünes Gewölbe (New Green Vault) features ten rooms of selected masterworks from the huge collection of 16th. but it was moved to this new location in September 18th-century objects. for performance information. Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) Altstadt Built between 1726 and 1743. an exact replica of the 18th-century original. Admission: Free. the Frauenkirche on the southeast side of Neumarkt (New Market Square) was the most important Protestant church in Germany and had one of the most famous domes in Europe. the great German Romantic artist. 7. a brilliant painter who ran afoul of the Nazis. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. See map p.m. bronze statuettes. generally 10 a. and going up to the brilliant works of Dresden-born Otto Dix (1891–1969). See map p. Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) Altstadt The fabulous assortment of treasures displayed in the Residenzschloss formerly was housed in the Albertinum.m. The reopening of the church was an event of major symbolic importance. was built by the son of a British bomber pilot who took part in the original bombing raid. Open: Daily. Note: This great collection closed in January 2006 for major redesign work. A painstaking restoration project began in 1993 and was finally completed in 2006.218 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Friedrich. After the war. including rococo chests. Allow yourself at least an hour to browse this treasure-trove (be prepared for crowds). the Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Historic Green Vault) opened. Two collections are open for viewing. 211. and as of press time there was no scheduled date for its reopening. Once again this baroque church dominates the historic center of Dresden. Tram: 3. In September 2006. Neumarkt. But there’s more. if you want it. except during Sunday concerts. Sunday concerts (8€/$ 10). Allot at least an hour to see the highlights. Brühl Terrace. The sculpture collection has been moved to the Zwinger (see later in this section). The new golden cross atop the dome. each requiring a separate admission. % 0351/6560-670. The 1945 Allied bombing of Dresden destroyed 80 percent of the city. % 0351/491-4619. or 8 to Rathenau Platz. Unless you’re an objet d’art nut. intricately designed mirrors. but the paintings in the New Masters Gallery unfortunately won’t be on view until the Albertinum reopens. and priceless porcelain. and take advantage of the free audio guide. 211. the East German government let the charred ruin remain as a memorial.

2€ ($2. Katholische Hofkirche (Catholic Court Church) Altstadt The restored Hofkirche. What you see are everyday objects used by the common folk — a far cry from the gem-encrusted treasures in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m.–4:30 p. Jägerhof.skddresden. or 51 to Carolaplatz. % 0351/4914-2000. and promenades. See map p. hand-woven baskets. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Admission: Free. tableware. and Christmas decorations from the nearby Erzgebirge region. described earlier). You need about 15 minutes to look around. D.m. Sophienstrasse.–6 p. Inside. On display are pieces of painted furniture.m. also known as the Cathedral of St. and Weimar 219 Green Vault can only be visited with a prebooked timed-entry ticket. designed a series of galleries and domed pavilions to enclose a large rectangular courtyard with formal gardens. Schlossplatz..m. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Sat 10 a. Pöppelmann (1662–1736). 5.). 211. % 0351/803-0817.m. Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts) Neustadt The oldest Renaissance building in Dresden. Zwinger Altstadt Augustus the Strong.) bell tower decorated with statues of saints and apostles. 8.m. the 16th-century Jägerhof (Hunters Court) houses this fine collection of regional folk art. available in advance by calling % 0351/4911-9285 or online at www.m. Open: Mon–Fri 9 a.Chapter 14: Dresden. He wanted the Zwinger to be his Versailles and a place where he could show off his incredible art collections. Open: Daily 10 a. The architect.–6 p. Built by the son of Augustus the Strong. 7.m. Frederick Augustus II (ruled 1733–1763). 211.m. the church was constructed in a lavish Italian baroque style with a curving facade and 86m (282-ft. (Historic Green Vault until 7 p. 211. and folk costumes.50€ ($4. Historic Green Vault 12€ ($14).75) adults. 3. is the largest church in Saxony. Residenzschloss. Sun noon to 4 See map p. See map p. you can see the crypt with the tombs of 49 kings and princes of Saxony. Admission: New Green Vault 6€ ($7. Tram: 3. fountains. built this magnificent baroque palace in 1719. The semicircular Wallpavillon at the west end and the adjacent Nymphenbad (Bath of Nymphs). are notable buildings that rely on the exuberant sculptures of the Bavarian artist Balthasar Permoser . Kopckestrasse 1. Trinitas. Leipzig.50) seniors and children.50) children and students. elector of Saxony and king of Poland. carvings.–4 p. Admission: 3€ ($3. pottery. with its graceful fountains and mythological figures. Also shown are toys.m.. M.50) adults. % 0351/495-1133.

Admission is 5€ ($ 6. has as its showpiece Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. displays Japanese.220 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany (1651–1732). Selections from the Skulpturen-Sammlung (Sculpture Collection) formerly housed in the Albertinum are now on view in the Zwinger in the ground floor of the Französischer Pavillon (French Pavilion. with all manner of clocks and scientific instruments of the 16th to 19th centuries. 2. depending on your interest level. Tram: 2.50) adults. Canaletto’s views of Dresden are so true to life that they were used as reference works during the post-WWII reconstruction of the city. The collection includes examples from over five millennia.75) for adults.m. On the west side of the Zwinger. one of the best in the world. it costs 10€ ($ 13) for adults. 4.50€ ($ 3) for children and seniors. In the Rüstkammer (Armory). You save money with a Tageskarte (Day Ticket). . good for all Zwinger museums. you find a series of detailed townscapes of Dresden painted by Canaletto in the mid 18th century. to 6 p. Again. a Renaissancestyle two-story pavilion linked by one-story galleries. Dutch. The collection also includes Flemish. a separate section of the Semper Gallery. you can spend 15 minutes or an hour. Dürer. % 0351/491-4622. this entire complex of buildings contains a stunning collection of museums. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection). 2€ ($ 2. Chinese.25) children and seniors. They all are open the same hours — Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. to the left of the Wallpavillon.m. 2€ ($ 2. starting with the ancient cultures of the Mediterranean region through all epochs of European sculpture to the present. and the Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts. The “giant animal room” on the second floor has a collection of 18th-century Meissen animals. Theaterplatz 1. The entrance is directly across from the entrance to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. 20€ ($ 25) for a family. The most important museum is the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) in the Semper Gallery (entrance at Theaterplatz 1). with its entrance in the Glockenspiel Pavillon (Carillon Pavillion).m. Allow at least two hours for unhurried browsing. and German paintings by Van Dyck. the Green Vault. you find the Mathematische-Physikalischer Salon (Salon of Mathematics and Physics). Gottfried Semper added the pavilion in 1846. See map p. Admission is 6€ ($ 7. 3. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. This gallery. — but charge separate admission prices.m.75) for adults.50) for children and seniors. Admission is 5€ ($ 6.25) adults.–6 p. you can see a small but superlative collection of armor and weapons from the 15th to 18th centuries. Vermeer. and Meissen porcelain from the 18th and 19th centuries. 5€ ($ 6. On the northeast side is the Semper Gallery.50€ ($ 4. Admission is 3€ ($ 3.50) for children and seniors. you can see everything in under half an hour. or 8 to Postplatz.50) children and seniors. 211. and Rembrandt. Depending on your interest. entrance in the courtyard).25) adults. In galleries two through four. Rubens. Today. Give yourself about 15 minutes to wander through.

and Weimar 221 The Zwinger Wallpavillon Mathematische– Physikalischer Salon Nymphenbad Julian–Grimau–Allee Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Picture Gallery) Theaterplatz Rüstkamner (Armory) Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection) Glockenspielpavillon Kronentor Shopping in Dresden Dresden’s main shopping streets are Prager Strasse. in the Altstadt. and Altmarkt. is the best-stocked and most interesting gift Zwinger- graben . More-exclusive shops reside in Neustadt on the north side of the river on Königstrasse and Hauptstrasse. where you find department stores Wilsdruffer Strasse.m. accessible via Hauptstrasse 17–19 (Tram: 9). In Neustadt. Leipzig. Kleine Brüdergasse 5 (% 0351/862-1230. Tram: 4 or 8). to 3 p.Chapter 14: Dresden. A Trödelmarkt (flea market) is open Saturdays from 9 a. you find many high-quality antiques dealers lining both sides of a lane called Am Goldenen Reiter.m. beneath the Albertbrücke (bridge) (Tram: 1 or 4). The best shops Weihnachtsland am Zwinger.

If you’re an opera buff. Theaterplatz 2 (% 0351/4911705. Its hand-painted objects are the most charming and interesting in Dresden. The main stage for classical theater in the city is the Schauspielhaus. which began in 1434. Several operas by Richard Wagner and Richard Strauss had their premieres in this house. Tram: 13. Look for woodcarvings from the Erzgebirge Mountains. Tram: 4 or 8). Anything you buy can be shipped. Schiller. Bus: 72 or 76).222 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany shop in Dresden. Tram so many and varied nightlife options always are available. Tickets are 10€ to 25€ ($13–$31). Advent stars from Hermhut. The theater is closed during August. Postplatz (% 0351/491-350. seeing a performance by the resident company. You can also take a free tour of the studios and factory. and blown-glass tree decorations from Lauscha. dance.dresdnerphilharmonie. or 7). The famous Christmas market Dresden’s Weihnachtsmarkt (also called the Striezelmarkt) is the oldest Christmas market in Germany. 4. and Shakespeare. you can find classical concerts. takes place in the Altmarkt and features handmade regional crafts and gift items and homemade foods. in the Altmarkt (% 0351/48660.semperoper. The opera and ballet season lasts from September to mid-July. is one of the world’s great opera houses. The oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Dresden is Wehsener Porzellan. Summer concerts take place in the courtyards of the Zwinger. Ticket prices range from 8€ to 78€ ($10–$97). where actors perform dramas by Goethe. Tickets cost 11€ to 40€ ($14–$50). 5km (3 miles) southeast of the center at Donaustrasse 72 (% 0351/4707340. filigree lace from Plauen. indigo-printed cloth and pottery from Lusatia. or just a good place to relax with a glass of wine or a beer. Tickets for classical concerts. www. which was built in the mid 19th century and twice rebuilt. Opera and classical concerts The Semperoper (Semper Opera House). Discovering nightlife in Dresden Dresden is the cultural center of Saxony. The Dresden Philharmonic performs at the Kulturpalast. Depending on your tastes. the Sächsisches Oper (Saxon Opera). This December event. can be a highlight of your trip. and Easter ornaments from the nearby Erzgebirge region. www. New Year’s. selling handmade Christmas. rock shows. discos. . gingerbread from Pulsnitz. and opera are available from the tourist information centers on Prager Strasse and Theaterplatz. Tram: 3 or 5).

daily excursions depart for the Saxon Switzerland route. low-key bar without intrusive music.m. deep gorges. Louisenstrasse 10 (% 0351/801-1739. or 11). 5. giant rocks.m. I recommend that you take a boat trip along the Elbe River. Elbe cruises leave from the dock below Brühl Terrace.m.m. Other routes travel to Meissen and through Bohemia.m. to 3 a. The upstairs cafe at Planwirtschaft.m. in English. Tram: 7 or 8).m. Leipzig has long been a major cultural and commercial force in Saxony. The club is open daily from 9 p. Alaunstrasse 100 (% 0351/801-3957. until the last person leaves. to 2 a. Tram: 7 or 8). a small. the esplanade that runs along the south bank of the river. and on Sunday you find dinner and dancing. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. is a hip dive with sand-covered floors. Raskolnikoff. and Weimar 223 Sailing through Saxon Switzerland If you have the time. Böhmische Strasse 34 (% 0351/804-5706.m. a center of publishing. to 2 a. Bars and clubs Café Hieronymous. Die 100. The place is open Monday to Friday from 11 a. on weekends. A dance club with room for everyone is DownTown and Groove Station. where you see castle-crowned hilltops.” for its role in toppling the former Communist government of East Germany.saechsische-dampfschiffahrt. % 0351/ 866-090) runs several trips on historic paddle-wheelers and modern boats through a scenic region known as Sächsisches Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland). From May into October. Leipzig: City of Heroes Historic Leipzig. Katherinenstrasse 11–13 (% 0351/802-8801. or “city of heroes. Tram: 7.. Visiting Leipzig is worth the trip to see a proud East German city rediscovering and redefining itself after years of Communist rule.m. Although it doesn’t look like much. Leipzig is only a little smaller than Dresden. is a trendy drinking place set in a cellar and popular with students and artists. You can check out all the Elbe excursions. The trips take from 3 to 41⁄2 hours. or 11). to 1 a. open daily from 5 p. 8. is open daily from 7 p. Leipzig. located at the confluence of the Weisse Elster and Pleisse rivers..000 people. Monday is gay and lesbian night. Food and drink are for sale Tram: 3. and sheer sandstone cliffs. Cover is 4€ ($5).Chapter 14: Dresden. is open from 9 a. The Sächsische Dampfschiffahrtsgesellschaft (Saxon Excursion Boat Company.m. (See the “Leipzig” map in this chapter. the downstairs bar stays open until 3 a. 8. 7.m. to 2 a.m.) With a population of about 450. Louisenstrasse 20 (% 0351/8013187. online at www. The round-trip cost is 18€ ($22) per person. Tram: 7 or 8). is called a Heldenstadt. and home to a famous university . Dresden (about 11⁄2–2 hours). www. You can easily visit Leipzig as a daytrip from Dresden. trip time is 14 minutes. You can easily get there from anywhere in Germany. B184) pass by or skirt Leipzig. Johann Sebastian Bach is closely associated with Leipzig. B87. and restaurants. and a good road network. and its skyscrapers and nightlife give the city a cosmopolitan flair that’s unique for this region. B181.leipzig-airport. trade fairs have played an important role in the city’s life. is the largest on the Continent. The 25. a new commercial flash point for cafes.224 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany with some 20. For information and train schedules. shops. The fare is 8€ ($10).de) lies 11km (7 miles) northwest of the city center.m. For centuries. and to other European destinations. .000 students. Getting there Leipzig has all the transportation options of a major city: an airport. The recently restored Hauptbahnhof is one of the most happening places in Leipzig. Leipzig was heavily bombed by British and American forces in 1943. including the famed Gewandhaus Orchestra. and Frankfurt (5 hours) 30-minute taxi ride to the city center costs about 30€ ($37). Mozart and Mendelssohn performed here. Willy-Brandt-Platz. B6. to midnight. Leipzig-Halle International Airport (% 0341/224-1155. You still find some narrow streets and houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. and much of the city is rebuilt or being rebuilt. such as Munich and Frankfurt. By train The Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Leipzig also is a city with many great musical traditions. Trains arrive daily from Berlin (about 21⁄2 hours). call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861 or visit www. and some Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings and arcades from the early 20th century. The Flughafen (Airport) Express train runs between the airport and the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station) every 30 minutes from 4:30 a. and Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig in 1813. By plane Several airlines link Leipzig to major German cities. By car Leipzig is connected to the A9 (Berlin–Munich) and the A14 (Halle– Dresden) Autobahns. a train station. or you may want to spend the night in this lively Saxon metropolis. 111km (68 miles) to the northwest. But people in Leipzig are much more interested in looking forward than looking back. A number of federal highways (B2.

m str Frankfurt Bee t h o v e Munich ATTRACTIONS Bach-Museum 8 Grasssi Museum 16 Museum der Bildenden Künste 3 Museum für Kunsthandwerk 14 Museum für Völkerkunde 11 Museum in der Runden Ecke 5 MusikinstrumentenMuseum 10 Nikolaikirche 15 Thomaskirche 9 Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig 13 . Alte Börse Markt 7 Naschmarkt Altes 15 Rathaus Gr as im maische S om 8 Th sse tr asse ga 11 12 13 9 KönigsMädler10 haus passag Klosterg.Chapter 14: Dresden. and Weimar 225 Leipzig t er-S ach hum t-Sc Kur 1 0 0 100 meters 0.Ri Rossplatz ng Hamburg Berlin er Leipzig GERMANY am Main Dimitroffstrasse nstrasse ind nW ühle .L u t h Neues Opernhaus Petersstrasse Burgstrass Sch Johannisplatz uls tra e sse Neues Gewandhaus 16 idts tras se . Fleischer g ass Reichsstrasse Nikolaistrasse WillyBrandtPlatz Wa gn erStr ass e i Brü hl Go e Goet hestr Barfu 6 e itätsstr.1 mile N Parthenstrasse Uferstrasse strasse Nordstrasse Pfaffendorfer strasse Information Railway i r. Gerberst r. Leipzig. Katharinenstrasse Schwanenteich markt Augustusplatz Univers 14 Neu- Universität Leipzig Grimmai scher Steinweg Georg iring Burgplatz atz Schil lerstr asse pl Ro Go ss ldsc Str ass hm e t r. Ritterstr asse 5 asse Hain str. z-Str h n it Tauc er- Gr Nü ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Fürstenhof 2 Leipzig Marriott Hotel 4 The Westin Leipzig 1 DINING Apels Garten 6 Auerbachs Keller 12 Paulaner Palais 7 Di ttr ich rin g Mart i n . ün ew al d s rnb erg . Alte Waage Marktplatz ssg ässch. tmbold Hu Hauptbahnhof 2 Tröndlinring RichardWagnerPlatz Richard-Wagner-Strasse Brühl Sachsenplatz 3 4 Ric erd ele rrin g ha rd- Gr.

DC. Fax: 0341/140-3700. to 4 p. Richard-WagnerStrasse 1 (% 0341/710-4260. the public transit authority. to 6 p. 04105 Leipzig. The tourist office offers a 90-minute city-sightseeing tour daily at 11 a. you can easily walk from the train station to all the attractions in the Altstadt (Old Town). The friendly. usually the first week in September and the second week in March. SBahn (surface trains). See map p. is a major plus. this hotel has 92 rooms redecorated to reflect the original neoclassical styling. and Sunday 9 a. The commentary is in German€ ($2). to 2 p. .lvb.. Hotel Fürstenhof $$$$ City Center Housed in a historic 18th-century building. reliable choice for leisure or business travelers (it tends to attract more business travelers because of the array of amenities and executive-level services it offers). An on-site health club has a pool and a sauna. Getting around Leipzig If you arrive by train for a daytrip. The rejuvenated bathrooms are nicely done and have a combination tub and shower. Fares are based on zones. You can also book a hotel room here and purchase tickets for concerts and sightseeing tours. An Einzelfahrkarte (single ticket) in “Zone Leipzig” costs 1. and the breakfast buffet is great.m. www.arabellasheraton. open Monday through Friday from 9 a. Leipzig Marriott Hotel $ –$$$ City Center Fans of Marriott hotels won’t find any surprises in this one. helpful service here is a real recommendation. within easy walking distance of the train station and just across from the new museum of fine arts.m. and the bathrooms all have tub/shower combinations.226 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding information and taking a tour Pick up a city map at the tourist information office. Tröndlinring 8. % 800-426-3135 in the U. the location. If you travel to Leipzig during those periods. V. booking your room in advance is essential. Staying in Leipzig Twice a year. Saturday 9 a. Rooms are comfortable and good-sized (with beds that beat the Westin’s for comfort).. 225.S. Leipzig is the site of huge trade fairs that bring in tens of thousands of visitors. and bus network. www. LVB (% 0172/1000000. Tram: 15.leipzig. runs the city’s tram. You can purchase tickets from automated machines at the stops. The Leipzig Marriott is a good.m. MC. The lobby will be reconfigured and all the rooms freshened up in 2007 (the hotel’s tenth anniversary). Rates: 265€– 300€ ($331–$375) double.m. for 12€ ($15). or 0341/1400. but that’s the point.

Coppiplatz Eutritzscher Zentrum 7 Friedrichshafner Str. Markranstäder Str. H. Lortzinge M G. lat hn Str. O kt .-Liebknecht-Platz e Pfingstweide Gorkistr.A ll f. L cke bein enb NordS-B ied Stallbaumstr. K. Volbedingstr.. p r Paunsdorf-Center f Volksgarten Wilh.-Lehmann-/ ch Naunhofer Str. Marienbrunn c Prager/Russenstr. Wiebelstr.-Eisner-/ S1 Altes Messegelände A. Gohlis S-Bf. . resl eiß ath olm ötte . Ar t Roseggerstr. h c c s ns 2 15 10 16 ho f 9 a e c Bahnhof Markkleeberg. T. u ta t Gohlis.Liebermann-Str. Kreuz hw Str Völkerschlachtdenkmal pl. Ph. Völkerschlachtdenkmal R. en diu Lind iet urg Heinßers t r n e i r t n a r e e r Gutenbergplatz n S n . Ahornstr. e le ue K. G t .-H Str.-Schumann-/ Möchern Hist. S-Bf. s u z ö Permoserstr. a i e Kir ön al nau rlän Lindenau de ng To Wurzen Jupiterstr. R r i o H tt D tz K u sd R. ma Ost Th. Mockau.-Liebknecht-/ S-Bf. Barnecker Str. hk Mod Hän str. 1 n ie ar . Schönefeld. r S Str. Ossietzky-/ a tr. 4 3 18 dt rm Herwegh-Str.-Segerr. Anger-Crottendorf S lle sst ena e-/ tr. t Meusdorf Parkstr. k zs or str eri 10 oß nd Ring ed ine i Gr Wi r. and Weimar Wiederitzsch-Mitte Neue Messe Messegelände 16 GeorgDachauer Str. f Merseburger Str. Lützowstr. G ee Bf. hk tzs ah tsc aetz Delitzscher/Essener Str. Landsberger Str. Forstweg e LindenG. Hornbach Baumarkt e el Freiligrathstr. Hu Dantestr. str.-Hupfeld-Str. tr. yg L.-HoffmannK. Böhlitz-Ehrenberg Heisenbergstr. r c fm Trams rf ka zm /G m tz M st ar er/R s K o e a a a e z . Hohentichelnstr.14 K. Platz S-B Hohe Str. St st rst lle lst Str -St ge An den Tierkliniken us ta A. Leipzig.-Hoffmann-/ Ad nn er-/ nnße se er r A atze bo y a r s l e e La per u e i . Leutzsch Bautzner Str. ar eg Eutritzsch. r r . .-Schwarz-/ n u he H s c H r ba Se Fr. O. Strbf. eis tr. Sc Fre Al Lü Sta St Viertelsweg P Sc Pittlerstr. Marschner-C tze lsru M it z na r Stö aue est aus str. . thaler Str. . W lip c s i h E 11 14 ow Sc rg g m h r 3 A irc be be st Großstädteln. Paunsdorfer Allee/ Fr.A. ch ud ler ha atz S-Bf. B W R K St L -B Bayrischer S . r z e F L 11 lit rk est Markkleeberg-West ö e D l w m e 12 r k u 9 se Se in pe as 13 hw tr. Ku Zs Wiedebach. m e e n S Strbf. ll z ls te r tte Neues Rathaus He erse rit tr. Teslastr.. Pfeffingerstr.Westplatz ten er Breite Str.-Schmidt-Str. Sommerfeld tö ne -Eis . Körnerstr. Rathaus Str rn S tr Apelstr. R . ke cher er t Str.-Lampel-Str. Wittenberger Str.-Körner-Str. Hermelinstr. Meu Str.-NA. Krankenhaus Thekla Bis er W . lle Str erg Ri Ein Saturnstr. Taucha s 12 n 14 Taucha ck 9 r e e a d Gohlislle m Beyerleinstr.Waldplatz Sportforum Leibnizstr. Hamburger Schönefeld. ritz rü ilti Wilh. tr.-Eisner Str. Wahren Heiterblick. t n i t i b Landsberger/M.-Reis-Str. ns G. t Leuschner f f Stötteritzer Clara-Zetkin-Park B ü S Witzgallstr. r a t a schlößchen a S m st l 8 15 Zoo 7 8 18 au rb Am Vorwerk -P -St tr. Paunsdorf Borsdorf S-Bf. e e e e t h r a K. Permoser/Torgauer c G. S-Bf. 4 S-Bahn Prager/Riebeck Str. Connewitz s 5 Wildpark Klemmur. . . R b K. . zs Menckestr. S3 Rödelstr.-Lehmann-Str. Wielandstr. Zwickauer Str. Dessauer Str. h t Ku str. g i r f t n t R. vd ew isbahnhof h rk Lin A EdlichPlo Ki Am Sc Pa Grü Saa nn tsw nit str str. P -Platz S-B S-B Str. r Raschwitz Forsthaus Markleeberg. Mockau. . en ue Ostplatz St ö tte r S r. G tz a ner A n Nord z itz z . chb uer ee er A der S-Bf. Coppistr. Post Taucha. An der Märchenwiese 6 .-Schumann-/ Wilheminenstr. u r s r platz S-Bf. d u Gottschallc h s e m o m e ic ir h 1 S. E s r Hauptl v Str. eg z. ke z .-Liebknecht-/ Deutsche Bücherei 2 .-Heine-/ le e Roßplatz Riebeck/ str.Bar Merseburger aue rbrü Bf.-Lehmann-Str. Annaberger Str. V l l l k k k 16 rk ut M a a Borna To S1 M 18 Kn 227 Leipzig S-Bahn .Jo pl r. Chauseehaus Str. Virchow-/ Mosenthinstr. Probstheida Triftweg S-Bf. ns r Moritz-Hof 7 tte r ze tr. ha Str.nze Curschmannstr. Kirche a el di elw hen er h ud tr. Engelsdorf S3 eri Re Köh Goerdelerring Augustus. e r r r r n n Str. u i Lößnig H he 8 w S tr. Chapter 14: Dresden. Mockauer/Volbedingstr. Elster-Passage S1 S Johannisallee Holbeinstr. Bahnhof 15 ee ee O . Diakonissenhaus s . Paunsdorf-Nord Paunsdorf-Nord Südstr.-Jahn-Str. Paunsdorf.-Schwarz-/L. str Theresienstr. G Fe No str r A her Riebeck-/Oststr. . b M t s i a ö l . 10 Eutritzscher Markt 11 Portitzer Allee Döringstr.. Karolusstr. er / M ke erh sstr ims euss ras Miltitz f e l L L g l F t o . Thomaskirche . 2 An Sc uer Sc Südfriedhof 3 Mathildenstr. bahnhof m ist erts ieb L. ö K Na tr. ue r. Hermelinstr. tzs gelKoburger Brücke 4 Hildebrandstr. 12 1 Südplatz Stieglitzstr. Ka Al zn lagw . Industriegelände West rs z a e t ch e S3 Hauptt . Stu höna to Connewitz. Sommerfeld Rathaus Leutzsch r S platz W t Am Mückenn nn n S-Bf.

225. Tram: 4. It was an Inter-Continental hotel until 2003. Not all rooms have been upgraded (the new ones are on the highest floors). AE. in a quiet Leipzig neighborhood close to the Altstadt. Regional cooking favors hearty portions and simple.S. roast duck with arugula. 10. the 27-story Westin reflects the Leipzig of today.50€–16€ ($10–$20). but this city is not particularly well known for its culinary scene. The menu features regional cuisine of Saxony. www. 8. This full-service hotel contains a health club. V. Fax: 0341/988-1229. MC. the cuisine is See map p. Am Hallischen Tor 1. Dining in Leipzig More restaurants are opening in Leipzig all the time. The restaurant Brühl serves traditional German food. Tram: 4 or 6. Rates: 145€–235€ ($181–$294) double.m. 225. See map p. or 0341/9880. and Canada. contemporary style. % 800-327-0200 in the U. 04105 Leipzig. to midnight. Although more robust than refined.westin. www. Tram: 3. Kolonnadenstrasse 2. Specialties include Saxon potato soup with wurst. 6. You can dine out on the porch in warm weather. 225. and sauna. V. DC. 11.S. AE. Rates: 99€–164€ ($124–$205) double. Sun 10 a. Fax: 0341/965-3999. % 800/426-3135 in the U. and within easy walking distance of all the sights in the Altstadt. Guests have a choice of the Historic Rooms (dinner only) or the Big Room (lunch and dinner). The Westin Leipzig $$$ –$$$$ City Center One of the city’s tallest buildings. Gerberstrasse 15. filling ingredients. V. DC. Rates include breakfast buffet. pool.228 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. and one of its finest modern hotels. Auerbachs Keller $ –$$ SAXON/INTERNATIONAL A group of sculpted bronze characters from Goethe’s play Faust adorns the staircase leading down to this famous medieval cellar restaurant where Goethe had Faust debate Mephistopheles. % 0341/960-7777. Reservations recommended. The décor is nostalgically Main courses: 7. MC.–3:30 p. when Westin took over and began redecorating the 447 rooms in a sleek. while Yamato is one of the best places in Leipzig for Japanese food. such as . MC. with its painted ceiling. is known for its home-style German food. Open: Mon– Sat 11:30 a. and pork steaks. or 0341/96530. 04109 Leipzig. and has room service.m. or 13. The restaurant is named after one of the old pleasure gardens that used to adorn Leipzig. The hotel is a convenient five-minute walk from the train station. but the old ones are comfortably furnished and have good-sized bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. Apels Garten $ –$$ GERMAN/SAXON This restaurant.

Across from this house. or Rostbratwurst (roasted sausages) from Nuremberg. Klostergasse 3–5. Tram: 4 or 6. has a restaurant and a more casual pub section. gabled. to midnight. Grimmaischestrasse 2–4.m. AE. The summer courtyard within the building is the nicest place to dine.Chapter 14: Dresden. The Universität Leipzig (Leipzig University) occupies the area south of Grimmaisch-Strasse. a famous arcade of shops and restaurants. behind a statue of Goethe as a student. V. Reservations recommended. Reservations recommended for dinner in Historic Rooms. Open: Historic Rooms Mon–Sat 6 p. % 0341/216-100. to midnight. On the east side of the square is the long. AE. a small. and Weimar 229 warmes Bratenneckchen (roasted pork on brown bread with a pepper dip). Thomas Church). to midnight. Weisswurst (steamed pork sausage) from Munich. Nicholas Church). along with a selection of international dishes. Main courses: 8€–19€ ($10–$24). Kids enjoy the underground atmosphere and usually can find something on the menu to their liking. popular restaurant.) In the neighboring Naschmarkt. DC. Exploring Leipzig Bombing in 1943 destroyed about one-quarter of Leipzig. Reconstructed on the north side of the square is the step-gabled Renaissance Alte Waage (Old Weighing House). Most of the old and the new Leipzig that has appeal for visitors is concentrated in the Zentrum (City Center). completed in 1687. Remnants of old Leipzig have been reconstructed around the Markt. Leipzig. Tram: 4 or 6. A short walk leads to the pastel baroque houses along Katharinenstrasse and the Brühl. The city has placed more of an emphasis on constructing the new than on restoring the old. V. MC. Renaissance Altes Rathaus. Mädlerpassage. To the west rises the high-pitched roof of the 1. home of Auerbachs Keller (see “Dining in Leipzig” earlier in this chapter).m. Paulaner Palais $ GERMAN/BAVARIAN/AUSTRIAN This large. stands the yellow-and-white Alte Börse (Old Produce Exchange). The only beer they serve is the Munich-brewed Paulaner Bier.000-year-old Thomaskirche (St. where demonstrators for democracy gathered in 1989. (Peter the Great of Russia and Napoleon also stayed there. See map p.m. Big Room daily 11:30 a. To the south of Marktplatz is the Mädlerpassage. 225. The menu emphasizes boiled meats such as Tafelspitz (beef) with heavy sauces. is the Königshaus (King’s House). . the city’s best-known square. each offering the same menu. where Bach served as choirmaster for 27 years. easily walked area south of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). the Alte Börse was the first baroque building in Leipzig. on the south side of the square. with curving stairs and stucco garlands above the windows. MC. once used by the rulers of Saxony as a royal guesthouse. Open: Daily 11 a. % 0341/211-3115. See map p. Just east of the Marktplatz is the 12thcentury Nikolaikirche (St. housed in an 18th-century rococo building. but you can also get Saxon Sauerbraten. 225. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17).

Look for the extremely rare. serves as the cultural heart of modern Leipzig. The immense and not very attractive new opera house occupies the north side of the square.m. An excellent audio guide in English is included in the price of admission.m. He came to Leipzig at the age of 38 to be choirmaster and director of the Thomaskirche’s boys’ choir and director of music at Leipzig University. Carl Philipp Emanuel. Matthew. to the east of the Nikolaikirche and the university. 225. and stayed for the rest of his life. % 0341/964-4133. houses Leipzig’s arts and crafts. You can see everything in this small museum in about half an hour.m. Every May. ߜ The Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Applied Arts Museum. Bach was the father of no fewer than 17 children (4 by his first wife. Thomaskirchhof 16. Sun 11 a. See map p. the three museums in the Grassi complex are scheduled to reopen in 2007. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults.230 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bach in Leipzig The composer Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750) is Leipzig’s most famous citizen. Augustus-Platz. and Wilhelm S. jointed doll dating from 1526. during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche and other venues around town. Grassi Museum Completed in 1929.m.50) family ticket.. After years of Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (% 0341/913-7333. you’ll be tempted to linger. the Neues Gewandhaus concert hall stands on the south. are on display. Tours: Fri 3 p.m. Tram: 21. You find beautiful examples of furniture. including scores and letters.m. and the Mass in B Minor. ethnography. Bach wrote more than 200 cantatas. if you love Bach. % 0341/222-9100) displays an array of handmade objects from the Middle Ages up to the early 20th century. Many mementos of the composer. and musical instruments collections.bach-leipzig.–5 p. 6€ ($7. and 3 p.. % 0341/ 973-1900) displays highlights from the permanent collection of . www. Bach’s. Open: Daily 10 a. www. ߜ The Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum of Ethnography. on Johannis-Platz just east of the Zentrum. The house now contains the largest Bach archive in Germany. Bach-Museum This reconstructed house standing in the shadow of the Thomaskirche once was home to the Bose family. also became composers. friends of J. the Grassi Museum. Sat 2 p. the Passion According to St. In Leipzig.bach-leipzig. and glassware. Three of his sons. Johann Christian. porcelain. 13 with his second).

a group of 10. ߜ The Museum für Musikinstrumente (Musical Instruments Museum. local citizens took a giant step toward toppling the government of East Germany when they seized this building. A nice little cafe is located on the premises (open the same hours as the museum).m. and French musical instruments of the 16th to the 19th centuries. See map p.m. You may want to spend a few minutes here. Caspar David Friedrich).000 demonstrators gathered with candles and began the peaceful revolution that toppled the . % 0341/973-0750). On the nights of December 4 and 5. confiscating private letters and listening in on phone conversations. European art of the 15th and 16th centuries. 4.25) adults. See map p. Admission: 5€ ($6. Katharinenstrasse 101 (on Sachsenplatz). Tram: 3. or 24. de. Tram: 1.m. Founded in 1837. one of Germany’s most important art collections reopened in a new $ 100-million glass-and-steel. Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) In late 2005. and contemporary works.m.50€ ($4. 17.Chapter 14: Dresden.–6 p. 21.m. The museum is open late on Thursday (until 8 p.m. 1989. Nicholas Church) The present church was built in the 16th century and has a white. 15. 225. 3. Open: Daily 10 a. Museum in der Runden Ecke (Stasi Museum) This chillingly fascinating museum is housed in the building that once was the headquarters of the dreaded Stasi (short for Staatssicherheit. Dittrichring 24. Leipzig. you may find you’re the only person there. Open: Tues and Thurs–Sun 10 a. (Wed noon to 8 p. Admission: Combined ticket for 2 museums 5€ ($6. German.grassimuseum.m. exhibits Italian. www.–6 p. Admission: and Weimar 231 cultural artifacts relating to the peoples of the world. % 0341/961-2443. Nikolaikirche (St. free on second Sun of the month.). Bus: 8.–6 p. children and students. Allow at least an hour just to stroll through. www. or “state security”).). The new building is a serenely handsome affair that hasn’t quite caught on with the public yet. 225. cube-shaped building on Sachsenplatz. Johannisplatz 5–11. the East German Ministry for State Security. 10€ ($13) family ticket. 225. An exhibition called “The Power and Banality of the East German Secret Police” documents the meticulous and paranoid methods by which Stasi agents monitored every exchange of information in East Germany. but it also displays Dutch and Flemish art of the 17th century (including a lively Frans Hals). neoclassical interior. but be aware that none of the exhibits are translated into English. Leipzig’s Museum of Fine Arts is especially strong in German painting of the 19th century (including works by that quintessential Romantic. 6. www.25) adults. 2. See map p. Tram: 21. considered one of the best of its kind in the world. On this site in 1989. 61 years to the day after its original home was destroyed by a bomb in WWII. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m. % 0341/21-69-90.

% 0341/960-2855. 11.m. Thomaskirchhof 18 (just off Marktplatz). sophisticated. 15. and Richard Wagner was christened here in 1813. 6. East Germany’s Communist government. Sat–Sun 10 a. or 13. 225. plants. Set up chronologically. and close at 10 p. lined with chic.m. is a lively. % 0341/960-5270. The Naschmarkt. The church was built on the site of a 13thcentury monastery and was heavily restored after WWII and again after reunification. His body was moved here in 1950 on the 200th anniversary of his death and reburied in front of the altar. See map p.m. Nikolaikirchhof. newsreels. Shopping in Leipzig Exploring the handsomely restored Art Nouveau Arkaden (arcades) that thread through the historic core of Leipzig is fun. 6.m. first organized in the 13th century. Leipzig’s Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) recently was transformed into a giant shopping mall.m. Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) I recommend that anyone traveling to Leipzig visit this free multimedia exhibition. on weekdays and 4 p. open Monday through Saturday. cheeses. 8. Thomas Church) Leipzig’s most famous resident. Admission: Free. See map p.m. % 0341/22200. Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a tradition dating back to . Both Mozart and Mendelssohn also performed in the Thomaskirche. Open: Daily 9 a.m.–5 p. Johann Sebastian Bach. 225. Open: Daily 8 a. Open daily in December in front of the Altes Rathaus. meats. expensive boutiques. Tram: 4. The movement started as a prayer group in the Nikolaikirche in 1982. or 8. Described as a place of “living remembrance. and a bit of everything. the church’s famous boys’ choir.m. Admission: Free. on Saturday.–6 p. centrally located outdoor market that sells vegetables. 225. Tram: 4. Open: Tues–Fri 9 a. 6. or 20. When it isn’t touring. and memorabilia to guide you through the tumultuous last half-century in eastern Germany.m.–6 p.m. documents. Tram: 2. Thomaskirche (St.m. Mädlerpassage is Leipzig’s finest arcade. Bach wrote his great cantatas for the Thomanerchor. Admission: Free. and the events that triggered the fall of the GDR. what life was like in Communist East Germany. with about 140 shops and cafes that open between 6:30 and 9 a. the choir presents concerts every Sunday morning and Friday evening. Give yourself at least an hour. 10. the exhibit uses photos. See map p.232 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany GDR.. was choirmaster in this church from 1723 until his death 27 years later.–6 p. audio.” the exhibit may help you better understand contemporary German history. Grimmaische Strasse 6. Its high-pitched roof dates from 1496. 4.

Its home is the Opernhaus. is home to several arts companies that stage a mix of theatrical and musical productions in German. a Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment Beautiful Weimar (vie-mar). Leipzig. Discovering nightlife in Leipzig Leipzig’s active nightlife offers something for everyone. The area around the Markt is full of bars. 12. 5. Mendelssohn. Tram: 4. Goethe.Chapter 14: Dresden. walk down Barfüssergässchen.–8 p. Mephisto Bar. Stalls (open daily 10 a. or 24). just south of the Altes Rathaus.) sell a variety of craft items and Christmas food and drink. 15. great for people-watching. Tram: 4 or 6). Ticket prices range from 10€ to 45€ ($13–$56). Attending a concert by this great orchestra is a special treat.m. Germany’s first democratic government after World War I (WWI). Schubert. 6. 4. a concert hall built in is the hippest bar and cafe in Leipzig. Augustusplatz 8 (% 0341/ 126-1261. For a sampling of lively cafes. Bosestrasse 1 (% 0341/ 12680. from opera and classical concerts to late-night bars and discos. 13.m. 2. Augustusplatz (% 0341/127-0280. www. 13. lived and worked in Weimar for 50 years. 21. because the German national assembly met here in 1919 to draw up the constitution for the ill-fated Weimar Republic. Weimar also is famous in the history of Germany. or 15). considered Germany’s greatest literary genius. the Schauspielhaus. Some of the country’s most revered painters. or spent portions of their creative lives here. Tram: 4. and other entertainment options. and Brahms. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 30€ ($12–$37). http://oper-leipzig. Ticket prices for opera and ballet range from 9€ to 60€ ($11–$75). cafes. 12. which honors Goethe and the Faust legend. Founded in 1781. or 15).m. The town is well known to architecture buffs. The Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera) is one of Germany’s most acclaimed opera companies. Special organ concerts and performances of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and Handel’s Messiah also take place. beginning around 8 p. is one of Germany’s greatest cultural shrines. is the home of the world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra. Leipzig’s main theater. opposite the Neues Gewandhaus. and Weimar 233 1767. writers. 5. gewandhaus. Mädlerpassage (% 0341/216-100. Live music is performed Thursday through Saturday. because the first Bauhaus School of Art and Design was founded . 17. the orchestra premiered works by Beethoven. and composers made their homes in this small Thuringian town on the River Ilm. The Neues Gewandhaus.000-year-old town that once was a center of the German Enlightenment. Tram: 1.

Tolstoy. By car. Getting there Weimar lies 262km (162 miles) southwest of Berlin. the price is 6€ ($7. Finding information and taking a tour Tourist-Information am Markt. Weimar is an easy daytrip from Leipzig or Dresden.234 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany here in 1919. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. www. Weimar was not completely destroyed by bombs in WWII. in part because its old winding streets are sprinkled with the homes (now museums) of famous figures. The tourist offices listed earlier under “Finding information and taking a tour” also can help you find a hotel room or pension.weimar. For rail information and schedules.m.m.m.m. even Hitler.m. The tourist office offers a two-hour walking tour (in German) of Weimar daily at 10 a. The meeting point is the tourist information office. Buy tickets at the tourist office. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. de). you can reach Weimar via the A4 Autobahn linking Frankfurt and Dresden. The elegant late-17th-century facade. turning off at Hermsdorfer Kreuz for Weimar. with a past guest roster that includes Bach. the local entertainment listings magazine. call % 11861 or visit the Deutsche Bahn Web site (www. Leipzig. Enough of old Weimar remains to give you a good sense of what the town was like when Goethe lived there. Fast InterCity Express (ICE) trains run from Frankfurt. children younger than 14 free. in the town’s central to 3 p. you may want to spend the night.50) for adults. Good train connections to Weimar’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) are available from anywhere in Germany. During WWII. new hotels have opened throughout Weimar. 118km (74 miles) southwest of Leipzig. and Dresden. and 215km (134 miles) southwest of Dresden. hides a stylishly . or the A9 Autobahn between Berlin and Munich. and 2 p. and Weimar is a stop on the InterRegio express train between Frankfurt and Berlin. Weimar is a joy to explore. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$$ –$$$$ City Center The Hotel Elephant is Weimar’s most famous hotel. to 6 p. Takt.m. Markt 10 (% 03643/7450. 4€ ($5) for students. fronting Weimar’s picturesque marketplace. Staying in Weimar Since reunification. Unlike Dresden and Leipzig. often in historic buildings. but because Weimar offers plenty to see. is available free.. the Nazis established the concentration camp Buchenwald on the outskirts of this city.

2 Erf urt er Str ass Nationaltheater e 3 Theater.-F W rell ag igra ne th str. Information i ATTRACTIONS Bauhaus-Museum 3 Goethes Gartenhaus 10 Goethes Wohnhaus & Goethe Nationalmuseum 9 Liszt-Haus 11 Schillers Wohnhaus 6 Schloss Belvedere 12 Schlossmuseum 2 Weimar Haus– Das Geschichtserlebnis 4 Wittumspalais 5 de A rer e lle . Breitsc heidstr. 12 Berlin GERMANY Weimar liens CEMETERY Goethe-Schiller Mausoleum Str. Be lv e R. To Train Station 1 0 0 1/10 mile 100 meters Jakobstraß e knech tstrass e N s aer Str a s Jen K. and Weimar 235 Weimar F. tst old Ama nech t ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Hotel Kaiserin Augusta 1 DINING Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Zum Schwarzen Bären 7 Haus k rastr Coud Fr. 8 8 Demokratie or n Am H instr. mb Hu r.4 Deutsches platz 5 M ar le rst 6 LucasRathaus i Markt CranachHaus 7 se k t stras Sc h Burgplatz Stern Brück e Ilm l os Sch ube rtstr asse Ilm Acker-w Ma rien trass e and Corona-Schroter Str. e 10 ng Bauhaus Universität Weimar 11 PARK K A R AN D E R ILM str. rg as se Brüh l WEIMARHALLENPARK To Buchenwald Frieden str. Leipzig.Chapter 14: Dresden. d.- Goetheplatz Graben Karlstra Stadtkirche St. Lieb Schwa nseestr Rollplatz asse Johannis kirche e e-stras se H -He i n platz s -g . Peter und Paul HerderEisfeld sse lKege e c rü B k asse Eng els Ri Leibn izalle e Sch il r a s se Puschk Stub enst rass 9 Pl.

The 99 rooms come in different sizes but are furnished basically the same. The 134 rooms are not large or luxurious. Fax: 03643/234444. Since reunification. See map p. MC. this restaurant serves specialty onion salads. Weimar is not a city renowned for its culinary past. In October. convenient. 99423 Weimar. Rates include buffet breakfast. Anna Amalia is modern and airy. See map p. Main courses: Anna Amalia 16€–26($20–$32). Bathrooms are large. or 71. but they are fully equipped. Rates: 169€–235€ ($211–$293) double. Elephantenkeller 6€–16€ ($7–$20). and 6–11 p.. Otherwise. comfortable. Dining in Weimar As with Leipzig.236 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany contemporary interior. however. make use of local produce and ingredients.m.hotel-kaiserin-augusta. or 71. among the best in the region. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$ –$$$ GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Weimar’s oldest hotel has two restaurants. Fax: 03643/802-610. Bathrooms are small and have showers only. a garden terrace. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. a dress-up sort of place with beautifully set tables. Carl-August-Allee 17. 11. with pearwood furniture and Art Deco styling. Bus: 10. % 03643/8020. www. % 03643/802-639. and good service. 99423 Weimar. a place for casual dining in a rustic atmosphere. MC. 235. The staff is friendly. . moderately priced hotel sits right across the street from the train station. 11. AE. and very well maintained. 235. Down one flight of steps is the historic Elephantenkeller (Elephant Cellar). some new restaurants with savvier cooking and better ingredients have opened. www. try local specialties such as sweet-and-sour Thuringian pot roast with dumplings or Thuringian-style grilled bratwurst on sauerkraut with puréed peas. MC. when Weimar’s famous Zwiebelmarkt (onion market) is open (a tradition dating back to 1653). V. Am Markt 19. Elephantenkeller Thurs–Tues noon to 3 a. AE. Open: Anna Amalia daily 6:30–10:30 p. % 03643/2340. arabellasheraton. DC. most have a tub/shower combination. 235. Breakfast costs an additional 18€ ($ 22). Rates: 77€–139€ ($96–$174) double. Bus: 10.m. Am Markt 19.m. DC. See map p. Reservations recommended. Its Italian and the buffet breakfast is good. Hotel Kaiserin Augusta $ –$$ City Center This good. V.

Open: Daily 11 a. His mother. Goethe’s patron. particularly the playwright Friedrich Schiller. which was founded in Weimar in 1919 and sought to unify arts and crafts within the context of architecture. V.50) adults. Bus: 1. 3.m. the little duchy of Weimar gained renown as a center of the German Enlightenment (Erklärung). The collection of Bauhaus memorabilia includes rugs. tea sets. Leipzig. or 71. Theaterplatz. See map p. which were referred to as the “Court of the Muses. wanted to surround himself with clever. 235. Open: Daily 10 a. MC. and pork medallions with Gorgonzola sauce.” Thanks to Goethe and his friends. set against the backdrop of the Ettersberg and Vogtland hills. % 03643/564-161. rumpsteak. 6.50€ ($5. . The museum is fairly compact. Markt. but you can get a good. and toys collected by the school’s director. 2. Duchess Anna Amalia.m. 235. 5. has many historic sights.Chapter 14: Dresden. Surrounding the Altstadt is the newer Weimar. the architect Walter Gropius. this restaurant is Weimar’s oldest. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832) was invited to the duchy of Weimar by the teenaged Duke Karl August. treelined boulevards and many 19th-century buildings. Admission: 4. entertaining people.–6 p. Goethe wrote the play Faust. See map p. to midnight. % 03643/853-847. with its large park. an important architect-designer of Art Nouveau. the town’s main square. One room showcases the work of Henry van de Velde. set the tone for the salons. classically inspired rationalism to German art and literature. Dishes include potato soup with sausage. with broad.50€ ($4. Exploring Weimar Weimar enjoys a scenic location on the Ilm River. Zum Schwarzen Bären $ THURINGIAN Located next door to the Hotel Elephant. Bauhaus-Museum The focus of this museum is the Bauhaus movement. Duke Karl. so you can see everything in about half an hour. Nothing is fancy about it. and Weimar 237 Goethe and the court of Weimar In 1775. schnitzel with potatoes.m. Markt 20. which brought a new. furniture. 3. architectural drawings. hefty meal for a reasonable cost.50) seniors and students. the work for which he is most famous. In Weimar. suicidal artist. 11. all of which you can easily see on foot. or 7. remains the lively heart of the old city. The Altstadt (Old City). which had become a sensation throughout Europe for its depiction of a suffering. Bus: 10. Goethe’s fame rested on the novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. Main courses: 7€–15€ ($9–$19).

The house has 14 rooms.50€ ($3). some of them pretty much as Goethe and his wife. 5. Believing that colors affect mood. The house is . When Goethe returned from Italy.. Letters and other personal and musical mementos also are on view. % 03643/545-388. Goethe used the house as a summer retreat. the Hungarian composer and most famous pianist of the 19th century. Tours (in German): Tues and Fri at 1 p.50€ ($4.m. The house is part of the adjoined Goethe National Museum. Admission: House and museum 6. Goethe had his dining room painted a sunny yellow.m. Liszt gathered young musicians around him in the high-ceilinged. You need about half an hour to see everything. filled the house with casts of ancient busts and statues.m. longer if you’re a Goethe fan. See map p. located in the bucolic park on the Ilm River. located just up the street from Goethe’s house. Open: Daily 10 a. 6. Marienstrasse 17.–6 p. in less than 15 minutes. an audio guide in English is available. was Goethe’s first residence when he came to Weimar in 1775 as a guest of Duke Karl August.–6 p.m. See map p.m. He lived with his family in this house. or 8. Admission: 3. 1832. The structure was built as a garden house in the 16th century. Throughout his life. Bus: 1. enlarged in the 17th century.–6 p. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe House) and Goethe Nationalmuseum The large baroque house where Goethe lived from 1782 to 1832 is Weimar’s most popular attraction. and designed special cabinets to display his Italian majolica plates.50€ ($8) adults. or 12.50€ ($3) adults. 2. but the museum requires a separate admission.m. % 03643/545-320. Friedrich von Schiller (1759–1805) is the greatest name in German literature. when he was 82 years old. Open: Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. 2€ ($2. he replaced the baroque staircase with broad stairs in the style of the Italian Renaissance. You can see the interior. Admission: 2.238 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Goethes Gartenhaus (Goethe’s Garden House) This simple stone cottage with a high-pitched roof. Liszt-Haus Franz Liszt. handsomely furnished rooms. left them. Christiane. In the museum. Open: House and museum daily 9 a. or 12. 5€ ($6. Displayed in the redcarpeted salon are one of Liszt’s pianos and the portable clavichord he used to exercise his fingers while he was traveling. 235. Frauenplan 1.50) students and children younger than 12.25) students and seniors. spent the last period of his life in this house located at the west entrance of Park an der Ilm. 235. 2. and reconstructed in 1996 according to the plans of 1820.m. 2. Im Park an der Ilm. 235. you find more Goethe memorabilia. 10. Goethe died in his sparsely furnished bedchamber on March 22. Bus: 1. Bus: 1. his study a soothing green. Schillers Wohnhaus (Schiller House) After his friend Goethe. overflowing with enthusiasm for all things Italian.50€ ($3) students and children. which has a few pieces of period furniture. and his reception room a calming blue. 10. See map p. from 1802 to 1805.40) adults. % 03643/545-375.

Goethe. You can wander through the entire house in about 15 minutes.–4 p. you find a collection of decorative art from the rococo period.–6 p. Schlossmuseum (Castle Museum) This neoclassical structure. Admission: Palace 4€ ($5) adults. 2. or 6. including Wilhelm Tell (William Tell).000 B.m. 2. Orangerie Jan–Apr Wed–Sun 11 a. Inside the château. You can visit both in about two hours..25) students. 8.m. and children. and other famous names associated with Weimar. summer 10 a.m. 4€ ($6) children. The orangerie displays a collection of historical coaches. 3. Belvedere Palace was a favorite retreat of Duchess Anna Amalia and her son’s “enlightened” Weimar court.–6 p. % 03643/901-890. 6. Burgplatz 4. and Weimar 239 furnished as it would have been in Schiller’s day. 235. % 03643/545-350.m.m. Schillerstrasse 12. replaced the royal castle that burned down in 1774. students.75) children. Bus: 1. theater sets. 235.C. See map p...m.–4 p.m. The museum has a series of galleries dedicated to Schiller.m.m. Bus: 1.–6 p. Of more general interest are the painting galleries containing important works by Lucas Cranach the Elder (including a portrait of Martin Luther). or 10.m. 5. Give yourself about 45 minutes to wander through the galleries. 7.Chapter 14: Dresden. 6. 1€ ($1.10) seniors. 2.m. and expressionist paintings by Max Beckmann and Max Lieberman. Admission: 5€ ($6.–6 p. . Orangerie 2€ ($2. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. 3. and videotaped projections help tell Weimar’s story from the earliest settlers in 3.50€ ($2) children. Belvederer Allee. and Napoleon. or 8. begun in 1789 and completed in 1803.–7 p. Wax figures created by artists who worked for London’s Madame Tussaud. 235.50€ ($3. See map p..50€ ($8) adults.m. Admission: 3. 3€ ($3. Bus: 1. % 03643/546-160.–4 p. See map p. Luther.50€ ($4. See map p. winter 10 a.50€ ($3). 2. baroque château located 3km (2 miles) south of Weimar. 1. 4. Admission: 6. Flemish and Italian paintings. 5. Schillerstrasse 16–18. Weimar Haus–Das Geschichtserlebnis (Weimar House–The Weimar Story) This multimedia attraction provides a basic introduction to Weimar’s history. Open: Wed–Mon Apr–Oct 9 a. Open: Palace Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. Nov–Mar 9 a. 5. 235. audio guides in English are available.m. Schiller wrote his last works. Schloss Belvedere (Belvedere Palace) A pretty.m.50) adults. % 03643/546-162.25) adults.50) adults.m. Tours (in German): Mon 1 p. Schiller.. Nov–Mar 10 a.m. In the attic rooms. Open: Daily. Leipzig. through the time of Goethe.m. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. The English-style park was laid out between 1814 and 1840. 5.50€ ($7) seniors. Bus: 12.

2. and others in this work camp from 1937 until the camp’s liberation by the U. At least 56. a 110km (68-mile) . to 5 p.S. once the home of Johann Sebastian Bach. old castles crown the tops of hills.75) students and children. The house. has an extensive collection of paintings. honors the people from 32 nations who lost their lives at Buchenwald. the site of the camp. A memorial with a cluster of “larger than life” people. Within the forest. in beech woods (Buchenwald) where Goethe and Schiller once walked. You can visit Buchenwald May through September. representing victims of fascism. To reach the memorial. the Soviets sent thousands of prisoners here to die. Exploring the Thuringian Forest Weimar sits in the northeastern corner of the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest). who presided over a “Court of the Muses. 22km (14 miles) west of Weimar. doctors.000 people died at Buchenwald. Later.m.–4 p. 6 marked “Buchenwald. 3. or 6. If you want to explore this picturesque area by car. to 6 p. % 03643/545-377. Bus: 1.). 235.m. Between 1945 and 1951. 6 from Weimar’s main train station makes the trip northwest of town to Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial. Tuesday to Sunday from 8:45 a.25) adults. one of the great cities of German art and culture. The Nazis confined about a quarter of a million Jews. 3€ ($3..240 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Buchenwald: Remembering the past About 10km (6 miles) from Weimar. spruce-clad mountains rise to about 985m (3. which leads to places associated with the great poet. homosexuals. The museum reflects both the Soviet and the Nazi past of the camp. and costumes. silhouettes (all the rage back then). take Bus No. October through April. Bus No..” where artists. devoted to mementos of the German Enlightenment. Admission: 4€ ($5. and art. Erfurt. is the oldest town in the region and the capital of Thuringia. 4. Ilmenau. and philosophers met to discuss issues of science. Army in 1945. is the starting point of a popular hiking trail known as Auf Goethes Spuren (In Goethe’s Footsteps). and many thousands of others were sent from here to death camps in the east. Slavs. Soviet occupation forces also used the site as an internment camp.m. See map p. Tuesday to Sunday from 9:45 a. and dozens of picturesque medieval villages dot the narrow.m. winding roads. prisoners of war. Nov–Mar 10 a. the Nazis set up one of their nightmare concentration camps. Gypsies. 5.” Wittumspalais A short walk along Schillerstrasse from the Schiller House leads to the elegant Wittumspalais (vit-ooms-pa-lay).225 ft. poets. Just south of Erfurt is picturesque Arnstadt. a lively university town south of Arnstadt. thought. Admission is free.m. Completed in 1767. the “Widow’s Palace” was the residence of the widowed Dowager Duchess Anna Amalia. % 03643/4300). Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. Theaterplatz. political prisoners.m.m.– 6 p. long extolled by nature lovers for its scenic beauty.m.

Weimar’s bars and outdoor cafes are good places to drink and talk into the night. Kaiser Antikitäten. dance. where Franz Liszt and Richard Strauss once conducted. Discovering nightlife in Weimar Weimar’s main performance venue is the Deutsches Nationaltheater (German National Theater).) You can buy tickets for opera. and furniture that survived the devastation of WWII. and Thiersch Antikitäten. Obereschlossgasse 2 (% 03643/512-993). .Chapter 14: Dresden. prices range from 8€ to 35€ ($10–$37). The most interesting shops include Antikitäten am Palais. Goethe-Antiquariat. in 1919. silver. Kaufenstrasse 7 (% 03643/402-567). selling books only. (This building is also where. You find a good selection to choose from along Schillerstrasse and around Theaterplatz. Schillerstrasse 22 (% 03643/59625). Theaterplatz (% 03643/755-334). Shopping in Weimar A visit to Weimar’s antiques stores offers a chance to buy porcelain. Also appealing are Antikitäten am Schloss. the National Congress passed the new democratic constitution that was the basis for the short-lived Weimar Republic. Bräuhausgasse 15 (% 03643/402-540). and Weimar 241 scenic road called the Thuringer Hochstrasse (Thuringian High Road) runs from Eisenach to Ilmenau. and its immediate neighbor. Schillerstrasse 22 (same phone). Leipzig. crystal. and concerts at the tourist information centers or the theater box office.

242 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .

Part IV Southern and Western Germany .

outhern Germany is different from other regions in Germany. home to the cities of Freiburg and Baden-Baden. in Chapter 16. known as the Bodensee in Germany. I highlight lovely Lake Constance. . one of the most scenically delightful areas in all of Deutschland. Going beyond Munich. I describe additional sightseeing possibilities in Bavaria. Germany’s most famous walled medieval city. S In this part . the romantic town on the Neckar River. . In case you’re eager to ride the Rhine. I tell you about boat trips through the river’s most scenic stretches. and Nuremberg (Nürnberg in German). famed for its woodcarvers. and what to see. an ideal driving tour loaded with unspoiled medieval towns. as you discover in this part. the most dramatic of Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castles. bucolic scenery. I devote Chapter 15 entirely to Munich. the cultural capital of southwest Germany. . Western Germany includes the popular and populous Rhineland region and many famous cities that are easy to reach and fun to explore. You find everything you need to know about Germany’s secret capital: how to get there and get around. or Black Forest. and Neuschwanstein. Chapter 18 covers three cities in western and central Germany: Heidelberg. Stuttgart. including the Romantic Road. I also tell you about visiting the alpine resort towns of GarmischPartenkirchen and Oberammergau. how to find a fine hotel or restaurant. and the Schwarzwald. the sophisticated city with the huge international airport that is the German port of entry for many international visitors. with its picturesque corners and Gothic churches. Chapter 19 is all about Cologne (Köln in German). In Chapter 17. the beautiful capital of Bavaria. a lively city on the Rhine famous for its spectacular Gothic cathedral. Chapter 20 is all about Frankfurt. Easy day trips from Cologne include the wine-growing regions of the Mosel Valley and the Rheingau section of the Rhine Valley. and must-see attractions such as Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

and more ᮣ Enjoying Munich’s nightlife M unich (München. elegant. and theaters are part and parcel of life in the Bavarian capital. Before Lent. starts in September and lasts for 16 days. Throughout the year. in every square. Think of Gemütlichkeit as a kind of cozy charm and you’ll get the picture. which attracts some 7 million revelers. eating. a whirl of colorful parades. in German). . the city goes into party mode again and celebrates Fasching (Carnival). Munich also is a rich. is a town that likes to celebrate. and revelry. Munich offers so much to visitors that I recommend you give yourself at least three days here. palaces. and have a good time. Munich is the Germans’ first choice as a desirable place to live. World-class museums. and enjoying life. Many Germans — especially the 1. pronounced Mewn-shin. listen to the oom-pah-pah bands. with an unparalleled array of artistic and cultural treasures. The city is all about prosperity and good-natured Gemütlichkeit. people gather in the giant beer halls and beer gardens to quaff liters of beer. drinking.5 million people who live in Munich — think of the city as Germany’s secret capital.Chapter 15 Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Munich ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Discovering the top attractions ᮣ Shopping for fashions. Oom-pah-pah aside. sophisticated city. food. sunny day or a balmy night and you see people sitting outside. one of those hard-to-translate words that means something like cozy and/or good-natured. Oktoberfest. masked balls. concert halls. the capital of Bavaria. If you believe the polls. from January through February. Walk through the Altstadt (Old Town) on a warm.

By plane Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss International Airport (% 089/9752-1313. Like Frankfurt.m. www. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. The city is easily accessible from anywhere within Germany or Europe. Connected to the rail station are the city’s extensive S-Bahn rapid-transit system and the U-Bahn (subway) system. Munich’s coat of arms has included a figure of the Münchner Kindl. You find a train information office on the mezzanine level. Munich has no lack of transportation options.25) for children. 1. A taxi to the city center costs about 70€ ($87) and can take more than an hour if traffic is heavy. By train You can easily reach Munich by train from any city in Germany or Europe.” Since that time. 5€ ($6. % 11861 for train information and schedules [an English speaker will be available to help you]. Trains leave from the S-Bahn platform beneath the airport every 20 minutes daily between 4:02 a. The Lufthansa Airport Bus (% 089/323-040) also runs between the airport and the main train station in Munich every 20 minutes from 5:10 is located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. restaurants.m. .10€ ($1. or “little monk. Munich has an international airport. Daily trains arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 33⁄4 hours) and Berlin (trip time: 7 hours). The fare for the 40-minute trip is 8.” Getting There As one of Germany’s major cities. with a The S-8 S-Bahn (% 089/4142-4344) train connects the airport with the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in downtown Munich.246 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The little monk of Munich In the ninth century. and 10:42 a.m. is one of Europe’s largest train stations..40€ ($10) adults.bahn. to 8 p. Munich’s Hauptbahnhof.m. www.m. to 7:50 p. open daily from 7 a. and banking facilities.munich-airport. German for “monk. shopping. on Bahnhofplatz near the city center.50) children. Opened in 1992. the airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world. a small village located near a Benedictine abbey on the river Isar called itself Mönch. less frequently through the night. so you can fly there directly from the United States.. you can also call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


By car
I do not recommend driving in Munich. Most of downtown is a pedestrian-only area — wonderful if you’re a walker, a nightmare if you’re a driver. Traffic jams are frequent, and parking spaces are elusive and costly. If you plan on making excursions into the countryside, renting a car in the city center instead of trekking out to the airport is more convenient. Car-rental companies with windows at the main train station include Avis (% 089/1260-000), Hertz (% 089/1295-001), and Sixt Autovermietung (% 089/550-2447).

Finding Information After You Arrive
Munich’s tourist office, Fremdenverkehrsamt München (% 089/23396500;, operates a tourist information center in the main train station (Bahnhofplatz 2, adjacent to the DER Reisebüro/ German Rail Travel Office). You can pick up a map of Munich, get information on cultural events, and book a hotel room. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. You find another branch of the tourist office in the city center at Marienplatz in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); hours are Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can make a hotel reservation online or at the main tourist office.

Orienting Yourself in Munich
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is an oval-shaped pedestrian-only district on the west bank of the Isar River. (See the “Munich Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.) Munich’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) lies just west of the Altstadt. Marienplatz, the Altstadt’s most important square, is where you find several important churches, the Residenz (former royal palace), the National Theater, and the Viktualienmarkt, a wonderfully lively outdoor market. Between Marienplatz and the National Theater is the Platzl quarter, famed for its nightlife, restaurants, and the landmark Hofbräuhaus, the most famous beer hall in the world. Odeonsplatz, to the north of Marienplatz, is Munich’s most beautiful square. Running west from Odeonsplatz is Briennerstrasse, a wide shopping avenue that leads to Königsplatz (King’s Square). Flanking this large square, in an area known as the Museum Quarter, are three neoclassical buildings constructed by Ludwig I and housing Munich’s antiquities: the Propyläen, the Glyptothek, and the Antikensammlungen. Another triad of world-famous art museums — the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Masters Gallery), and the Pinakothek Moderne Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art) — also lie in the Museum Quarter, just northeast of Königsplatz.

248 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Munich Neighborhoods


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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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250 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Ludwigstrasse connects the Altstadt with Schwabing, a former artists’ quarter located north of the Altstadt and known for its cafes, restaurants, and nightlife. Olympiapark, site of the 1972 Olympics, is northwest of Schwabing. The sprawling park known as the Englischer Garten is located east of Schwabing. East of the Isar River lie Bogenhausen and Haidhausen, leafy neighborhoods just outside the city center where you find some hotels and restaurants. Theresienwiese, site of the annual Oktoberfest, and Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace), one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces, are both located west of the Altstadt.

Getting Around Munich
Munich is a large city, only slightly smaller than Berlin or Hamburg. The best way to explore is by walking and using the excellent publictransportation system. Subways (U-Bahn), trams (Strassenbahn), buses, and light-rail lines (S-Bahn) make getting anywhere in the city easy. In the Altstadt, you can walk to all the attractions — in fact, you have to, because the Altstadt is a car-free zone. For information, call the publictransportation authority, MVV, at % 089/4142-4344, or visit it on the Web at

Using public transportation
You’ll probably use the underground U-Bahn (subway) and the aboveground Strassenbahn (tram) systems most frequently. The same ticket entitles you to ride U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses. Purchase tickets from vending machines marked Fahrkarten in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations; the machines display instructions in English. You also can buy tickets in the tram or from a bus driver. Tickets must then be validated in the machines found on platforms and in buses and trams; stick your ticket into the machine, which stamps it with the date and time. A validated ticket is valid for two hours. You can transfer as often as you like to any public transportation as long as you travel in the same direction. Munich has four concentric fare zones. Most, if not all, of your sightseeing will take place in Zone 1, which includes the city center. A single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) in Zone 1 costs 2.20€ ($2.75). The München Welcome Card, available at either Fremdenverkehrsamt München tourist information center, lets you ride all public transportation and offers discounts of up to 50 percent off on major tourist attractions and city tours. A tageskarte (day ticket) good for a day of travel within the city limits costs 6.50€ ($8) for adults, 2.30€ ($3) for children 6 to 14. A 3-tageskarte (three-day ticket) costs 12€ ($15). A partner 3-tageskarte, a three-day ticket good for two people traveling together, costs 20€ ($25). You can buy these cards from the ticket vending machines or at station ticket windows.

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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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252 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Catching a cab
Taxis are cream-colored, plentiful, and expensive. You can get a taxi at one of the stands located all across the city, or you can hail a cab on the street if its rooftop light is illuminated. Taxi fares begin at 2.70€ ($3.50); each additional kilometer costs 1.25€ to 1.60€ ($1.60–$2), depending on the distance; there’s an additional 1€ ($1.25) to order a taxi by phone. Call Taxizentrale at % 089/21610 for a radio-dispatched taxi.

Staying in Style
Hotels in Munich are more expensive than elsewhere in Germany, and rooms are scarce (and prices much higher) during Oktoberfest and when trade fairs are in town. I strongly recommend that you book your Munich hotel room in advance. I’ve weighted my choices toward hotels in central Munich. The highest prices in this section are for rooms during Oktoberfest and trade fairs. The Fremdenverkehrsamt (tourist office) in the main train station (see the “Finding Information After You Arrive” section earlier in this chapter) can book a room for you and give you a map with instructions for reaching it. The service is free, but the office collects a 10 percent deposit of the total value of the room; the hotel then deducts this amount from your bill. For locations, see the “Central Munich Accommodations and Dining” map in this chapter.

The top hotels
Here you can find a variety of great hotels. See also the listing for the outstanding Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München ($$$$) in Chapter 22.

Advokat Hotel
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt
You don’t find frills or froufrou in this streamlined 50-room hotel in a 1930s apartment building. The Advokat is strictly minimalist in approach and has an understated elegance. The rooms are medium-sized, with clean, simple furnishings. Each room comes with a compact bathroom, most with tub and shower. See map p. 254. Baaderstrasse 1, 80469 München. % 089/21-63-10. Fax: 089/216-3190. S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk south on Zweibrücken Strasse and west on Baaderstrasse). Rates: 155€–275€ ($194–$344) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit An der Oper
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt


This five-story hotel, dating from 1969, is wonderfully situated for sightseeing and shopping in the Altstadt. The décor is basic modern without being particularly distinguished. The 68 rooms are on the small side but have double-glazed windows and a small sitting area. The bathrooms are small, too, and come with a shower. See map p. 254. Falkenturmstrasse 11 (just off Maximilianstrasse, near Marienplatz), 80331 München. % 089/290-0270. Fax: 089/2900-2729. www.hotelanderoper. com. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater stop (then a 5-minute walk south on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Falkenturmstrasse). Rates: 150€–235€ ($187–$294) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

$$ –$$$$ Near Train Station
If you want a nice place right across the street from the train station, this is the best. From the outside, this large hotel looks a bit austere, but the interior has been redone with a pleasantly modern look. Most of the 211 rooms are fairly large, and all are decorated in a comfortable, unobtrusive style. Bathrooms are larger than average, with tub and shower. One child younger than age 6 is allowed to stay free in a parent’s room; for an additional child, an extra bed can be rented for 42€ ($52). See map p. 254. Arnulfstrasse 4, 80335 München. % 089/551-150. Fax: 089/5511-5555. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is opposite the north side of the train station). Rates: 139€–282€ ($174–$352) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gästehaus Englischer Garten
$ –$$$ Schwabing
This 25-room guesthouse near the Englischer Garten is quiet, charming, and an excellent value. The rooms are small to medium in size and decorated with a homey mixture of antiques, old-fashioned beds, and Oriental rugs. The bathrooms are small, with showers only. You can save a few euros by renting one of the six rooms that share bathrooms. In an annex across the street are 15 small apartments, each with a bathroom and a kitchenette. Breakfast costs an extra 9€ ($11); on nice mornings, you can eat outside in the back garden. See map p. 254. Liebergesellstrasse 8, 80802 München-Schwabing. % 089/383-9410. Fax: 089/3839-4133. U-Bahn: Münchener Freiheit (then a 10-minute walk east on Haimhäuserstrasse to Erninger Platz and east on Liebergesellstrasse). Rates: 68€–120€ ($85–$150) double without bathroom; 114€–180€ ($142–$225) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

254 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Central Munich Accommodations and Dining
ACCOMMODATIONS Advokat Hotel 37 Am Markt 35 An der Oper 26 Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 13 Eden-Hotel-Wolff 3 Gästehaus Englischer Garten 16 Hotel Bristol München 8 Hotel Exquisit 7 Hotel Jedermann 4 Hotel Mark 10 Hotel Olympic 9 Hotel Opera 41 Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel 44 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München 40 Königshof 11 Königswache 1 Mandarin Oriental 30 München City Hilton 38 Platzl Hotel 33 Splendid-Dollman 43 DINING Alois Dallmayr 23 Augustiner Grossgaststätte 12 Austernkeller 39 Biergarten Chinesischer Turm 18 Boettner 24 Buon Gusto Talamonti 29 Donisl 21 La Galleria 32 Gandl 42 Gasthaus Glockenbach 6 Gaststätte zum Flaucher 36 Georgenhof 15 Hunsinger’s Pacific 14 Hofbräuhaus am Platzl 27 Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom 19 Pfistermühle 33 Prinz Myshkin 20 Ratskeller München 22 Rossi 28 Spatenhaus 25 Tantris 17 Times Square Online Bistro 5 Zum Alten Markt 34
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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


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modern hotel is a congenial. See map p. .bristol-munich. comfortable furnishings. appealing hotel. 67€–149€ ($84–$186) double with bathroom. % 089/543-240. later in this chapter). family-run hotel offers a central location and 55 comfortable rooms. this efficient. convenient place to stay in central Munich. This pleasant. adjoining rooms. AE. DC. The hotel is attached to the famous Augustiner beer hall and restaurant (see the “Dining Out” section. Rates include breakfast. 14 newly redecorated rooms have air-conditioning. Tram: 19 to Herman-Lingg-Strasse (the stop across from the hotel). Fax: 089/5432-4111. 254. Hotel Jedermann $ –$$$ Near Train Station Jedermann means “everyman. AE. Rates: 99€–150€ ($123–$187) double. See map p. 254. The staff here is unusually pleasant and helpful. The 50 rooms are large and comfortably furnished in an old-fashioned German V. Cheaper rooms with in-room showers but toilets down the hall also are available. most with roomy. Fax: 089/ 5519-9499. is located on a quiet residential street in the heart of Munich. V. and you can check your e-mail on the computer in the lobby. 80336 München. Bathrooms are compact and have showers. built in 1988 in the same vicinity as the Hotel Bristol München (see the preceding listing). Rates: 170€–250€ ($212–$312) double. Bayerstrasse 95. www. See map p. shower-only bathrooms. V. % 089/551-9900. MC. www. MC. and babysitting). Pettenkoferstrasse 2. Pettenkoferstrasse 3. For a quieter room. % 089/ About half of them overlook a pretty garden. Rates include breakfast. Fax: 089/ 5999-3994. The 56 rooms are fairly small. MC. request one that faces the courtyard.256 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hotel Bristol München $ –$$ Altstadt Built around 1960 and renovated in 2002. Hotel Exquisit $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 5-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). Rates include buffet breakfast. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 10-minute walk west on Bayerstrasse from south exit).hotel-exquisit. family-friendly prices (including cribs and cots.” and that translates here into affordable. with simple. The small bathrooms contain tiled showers. Rates: 57€–86€ ($71–$107) double without bathroom. 254. The hotel serves a generous breakfast buffet. 80336 München. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 3-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). www. 80335 München.hotel-jedermann.

located in the historic heart of Munich. The rooms are fairly large and have good bathrooms. this hotel has a high-ceilinged lobby and a large wood-paneled breakfast room that retain much of their original late-19th-century detailing. www. and 64 guest rooms nicely decorated in a Bavarianchalet style with big. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor. Some of the rooms have small balconies. Rates include buffet breakfast. 254. The hotel is a short walk from chic Maximilianstrasse and several major attractions. however. stylish hotel is popular with gay travelers. Rates include breakfast. some face a garden. Rates: 150€–200€ ($187–$250) double. are white. U-Bahn: Prinzregenten-Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Prinz Regenten Strasse and south on Ismaninger Strasse). minimalist. St. Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel $ –$$$$ Bogenhausen This quietly charming boutique hotel on the east bank of the Isar has a lobby. % 089/231-890.hotel-opera. The small. and several gay bars and cafes are located nearby.-Anna-Strasse 10. See map p. Hans Sachs Strasse 4. Rates: 185€–265€ ($231–$331) double. AE. breakfast room. Ismaninger Strasse 42–44. AE. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 5-minute walk north on St.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Hotel Olympic $$ Altstadt 257 Built as a private villa around 1900. V. Rates: 90€–400€ ($112–$500) double. comfy beds and lots of wood. % 089/225-533. boutique hotel. Fax: 089/21040977. www. then Tram 18 or 20 east to Hans Sachs Strasse. superclassy Mandarin Oriental. and modern. elegant. 80538 München. Hotel Opera $$$$ Altstadt An early-20th-century Italianate building with a courtyard and garden houses this small. 80469 München. The level of service is exceptional. AE.prinzregent. The 25 distinctively decorated rooms have country antiques or a cool. The bathrooms have a tub and shower. Rooms in the rear on the third and fourth floors are quieter but also smaller than those facing the street. 81675 Munich. MC. The hotel is a ten-minute walk from Maximilianstrasse and the center of the city. DC.hotel-olympic. See map The 38 rooms. occupies an ornate 19th-century building that was turned . Most of the midsize bathrooms come with shower only. MC. 254. Fax: 089/ 4160-5466. % 089/416-050. 254. Mandarin Oriental $$$$ Altstadt The sophisticated.-Anna-Strasse). See map p. V. modern look. Fax: 089/ 2318-9199. MC. Rates include breakfast.

See map p. See map p. % 089/23-80-80. The rooftop terrace provides a view of Munich’s steeples and spires. 254.-Anna-Platz to Thierschstrasse). www. 254. Rates: 375€–490€ ($469–$612) double. 80331 München. See map p. AE. If you’re looking for a gulp of old-fashioned Bavarian ambience. DC. AE. www. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. You can enjoy breakfast. but the overall ambience is hard to beat. No two rooms are the same. DC. Fax: 089/ 2370-3800. The hotel has a heated rooftop swimming pool. The staff at this full-service hotel will arrange baby-sitting. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (then a 3-minute walk south on Neuturmstrasse).splendid-dollmann. the Splendid-Dollman is in the same league as Hotel Opera down the street. % 089/237-030. Fax: 089/224-017. 80331 München. V. Rates include buffet breakfast. % 089/ neat rooms. 80331 München. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 3-minute walk east from St. 80538 München. Platzl Hotel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Owned by the Ayinger brewery. many of which share bathrooms. MC.mandarinoriental. V. . Fax: 089/222-539. Fax: 089/23808365. Heiliggeistrasse 6. but they’re paneled in chestnut and alderwood and furnished with 19th-century reproduction antiques.hotel Runner-up hotels Am Markt $ Altstadt This popular budget hotel centrally located in the Altstadt has small.platzl. Sparkassenstrasse 10. this is one of the best choices in Munich. outside on a patio. DC. Each comes with a compact tiled bathroom. and some are on the small side. Rates: 161€–230€ ($201–$281) most with a tub-and-shower combination. V. The 167 rooms tend to be small. Neuturmstrasse 1. DISC. Munich’s famous beer hall. 254. Splendid-Dollmann $$ –$$$$ Altstadt A small. www.Thierschstrasse 49. but not quite as chichi.258 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany into a hotel in 1990. for an additional 11€ ($13). Rates: 150€–190€ ($167–$237) double. The Splendid-Dollmann’s owners moved the hotel (formerly located about a block away) to this building in 2003 and completely redid the interior. MC. % 089/ beautifully done boutique hotel. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). www. this reconstructed “medieval” hotel is located across from the Hofbräuhaus. and big marble-tiled bathrooms with tub-shower combinations outfit the 73 rooms and suites. 254. Most of the rooms have terraces with panoramic views of the city. No credit cards. fine prints and engravings. AE. MC. Biedermeier-era (early-19th-century) furnishings. See map p.

254. small cafes and bistros. Königshof $ $ $ $ Altstadt This famous hotel boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant and has lushly decorated rooms with marble bathrooms. . Filling the city are all kinds of fine restaurants. 81667 Mü the München City Hilton lies on the east bank of the river and features well-designed rooms with nice bathrooms. and Canada or 089/48-040. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Fax: 089/212-0906. Senefelderstrasse 12. a braised loin of pork served with potato dumplings and rich brown gravy. U-Bahn: Theresienstrasse. 80333 München. www. or 089/21200.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 259 $ $ $ $ Altstadt This full-service luxury hotel dates from 1841 and has individually decorated rooms with large bathrooms. S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz. See map p. a large loaf of sausage eaten with freshly baked pretzels and mustard. www. Inexpensive sausages. Karlsplatz 25. See map p. 80335 Munich. Promenadeplatz 2–6.or oven-roasted marinated beef).de. well maintained. 80333 Munich. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. % 800-455-8667 in the U. www. % 800-223-6800 in the U.S. apple juice mixed with sparkling water.S. See map p. is Bavaria’s answer to the north’s sauerbraten (pot. plus a health club with pool and Rosenheimerstrasse 15. Hotel Mark $ –$$ Near the Train Station Although not fancy.hilton. If you want a refreshing nonalcoholic drink. and so are all kinds of sausages and Leberkäse. 80336 München. Fax: 089/4804-4804. Steinheilstrasse 7. served everywhere. 254. Tram: 19. Fax: 089/523-2114. Fax: 089/5598-2333. and moderately priced. www. this 90-room hotel is convenient. heh. 254. ask for Apfelsaftschorle (ap-fell-saft-shor-luh). See map p. 254. soups. München City Hilton $ $ $ Haidhausen An excellent choice for business travelers and families with children. % 089/559-820. and beer halls that serve food. comfortable rooms with compact tiled Fax: 089/5513-6113. Homemade dumplings are a specialty. Königswache $ $ Near Altstadt This 1960s-era hotel features modern. % 089/551-360. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus. and snacks also are sold from outdoor stalls all around the Viktualienmarkt. Schweinbraten. See map p. Dining Out Munich is a city that loves to eat — and eat big. % 089/542-7570. 254.

AE. Open: Daily 5–11:30 p. % 089/298-787. scampi. Open: Mon–Wed 11:30 a. Dienerstrasse 14–15.m. % 089/2318-3257.–8 p. . which means that a service charge already has been added. this famous beer hall and restaurant has cavernous rooms and a genuinely gemütlich atmosphere. See map p. MC. MC.m. The restaurant is a bit pretentious. don’t leave the tip on the table. AE. Augustiner Brau.m. served raw or in dishes such as oysters Rockefeller.m. 254. including herring. Reservations required. Open: Daily 9 a. MC. in addition to timehonored favorites such as Lobster Thermidor and shrimp grilled in the shell. 254.m. upstairs in the dining room you can order a tempting array of dishes. Austernkeller $$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD At this “oyster cellar. but the food is excellent.m. fixedprice menus 34€–48€ ($41–$58). The shellfish platter with fresh oysters. U-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk north on Herrnstrasse and northeast on Stollbergstrasse. Thurs–Fri 11:30 a. Stollbergstrasse 11. Augustiner Grossgaststätte $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/GERMAN Located on Munich’s main pedestrians-only shopping street. DC. See map p. Neuhauser Strasse 27. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2-minute walk north on Dienerstrasse). If service is not included. The house beer. to midnight.–7 p. which owns the restaurant. Main courses: 15€–38€ ($18–$46). Sat 9 a. comes from one of Munich’s oldest breweries. Downstairs you can buy fine food products. Main courses: 20€–35€ ($25–$44).260 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany If a restaurant bill says Bedienung. V. See map p. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). smoked fish. as is the fish soup.. DC.m. round up the total to the nearest euro and add another euro. % 089/213-5100. A crowd always fills the restaurant at lunchtime. The server takes the tip when you pay the bill. mussels. U-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 5-minute walk east on Neuhauser Strasse). sausages. Alois Dallmayr is the most famous delicatessen in Germany.m..” you find the largest selection of oysters in town. The top restaurants Alois Dallmayr $$ –$$$ Altstadt DELICATESSEN/CONTINENTAL In business for almost 300 years. and one of the most elegant. 254. and sea snails is a delicious way to start your meal. round up the total to the nearest euro. clams.–4 p. and soups. V. V. Specialties include dumpling soup and roast duck with red cabbage. Menu offerings include fresh fish (salmon in champagne sauce is worth trying).

MC. spaghetti carbonara. but several traditional Bavarian dishes also are on the menu.–3 p. The various risottos (rice dishes) are especially good. Special offerings include herb-crusted lamb. and seasonal dishes with white truffles. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 1-minute walk north on Weinstrasse). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Tal and northeast on Hochbrückenstrasse). The beers come from Munich’s HackerPschorr Brewery. AE. Hochbrückenstrasse 3. Pfisterstrasse 9. in a 16thcentury building in the heart of Munich. pasta with truffles. V. comfortable atmosphere. An accordion player provides music in the evening.m. DC.m. the little white sausages famous in Munich. 254. beef filet. Open: Daily 9 a. 254. See map p.m.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Boettner $$$$ Altstadt INTERNATIONAL 261 When this century-old restaurant moved to its new location. Gandl $$ –$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN/FRENCH At this attractive and lively neighborhood bistro. MC. In summer you can dine in the garden area out front. fixed-price dinner 28€–38€ ($39–$47).50€–28€ ($11–$39). Donisl $ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL Munich’s oldest beer hall dates from 1715 and provides diners and drinkers with a relaxed. Main courses: 17€–42€ ($21–$52). the lunch menu leans toward Italian. See map p. AE. with a French influence. % 089/296-383. MC.m. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5minute walk north on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). lobster stew in a cream sauce. See map p. and 6 p. DC. Reservations recommended.–1 a. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. fixed-price lunch 8. Reservations required. The cooking is light and refined. it brought its wood-paneled interior with it. fixed-price menus 25€–36€ ($31–$45). % 089/29-62-64. to midnight. % 089/221-210. Weinstrasse 1. to midnight. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. but at night the booking becomes more traditionally . 254. The desserts are sumptuous. Reservations recommended. V. Try the tris di Pasta (three pastas with vegetables). V. DC. The atmosphere is light-hearted and fun.m. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). or the roasted lamb with potatoes. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and herbs. Weisswürste. Buon Gusto Talamonti $$ Altstadt TUSCAN/ITALIAN This highly regarded Italian restaurant has two dining areas — a simple bistro overlooking an open kitchen and a more formal dining room — with the same menu items and prices. have long been a specialty. AE. The standard menu offers traditional Bavarian food and weekly specials.m.

Open: Daily 11 a. % 089/39-31-01. See map p.262 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany French.m. you sit on benches at bare wood tables as a brass band plays. % 089/534-043. The food is . gnocchi. such as spaghetti carbonara.m. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). Georgenhof $$ Schwabing GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This pleasant Schwabing eatery has a comfortably rustic interior with a wood-fired grill. 35€–70€ ($44–$87) dinner. but you’ll typically find fare such as entrecote with arugula salad.m. Eat on the terrace if the weather’s nice. Reservations recommended. V. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 2 p. Dinner offerings change often.–1 a.-Anna Platz exit). to midnight. too. For dessert. Hofbräuhaus am Platzl $$ Altstadt GERMAN A boisterous atmosphere prevails in Munich’s huge and world-famous beer hall. mostly organic. Main courses: 8€–18€ ($10–$22). 254. The menu reflects seasonal specialty Spargel (asparagus) in May and June and regional favorites. Fixedprice menus: 20€–45€ ($25–$56) lunch. AE. nouvelle French-German-Bavarian cuisine and has earned a Michelin star. U-Bahn: Universität (then a 10minute walk west on Schelling Strasse and north on Turkenstrasse to the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Georgenstrasse). and ravioli. or lamb in red-wine sauce. too. Wines are mostly from Italy. The beer is Hofbrau. Bavarian game dishes include Rehpfeffer (venison) with egg Spätzle (German pasta) or tagliatelle with venison ragout. The vegetables come from local farms. AE. Upstairs are a number of smaller. sit outside under the chestnut trees.-Anna Platz 1. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. MC. MC.m. In the Schwemme (tap room) on the ground floor. MC. 254. a big courtyard is on this level. try the simple but delicious Bavarian cream with strawberries. 254. Fredrichstrasse 1. Kapuzinerstrasse 29. The big gourmet salad with various meats and pâtés is delicious. Gasthaus Glockenbach $$$$ South of Train Station MODERN EUROPEAN This elegant but unpretentious restaurant serves imaginative. and 7–10 p. U-Bahn: Lehel (the restaurant is less than a block from the St. Fixed-price menu: 31€ ($39). St. V. quieter dining rooms. % 089/2916-2525. but if the weather is nice.m. V. The menu offerings change with the seasons and typically include venison and pheasant in autumn and lamb and veal dishes in spring. which is served by the mass equal to about a quart. U-Bahn: Goetheplatz (then a 10-minute walk south on Lindwurm and east on Kapuzinerstrasse to the corner of Maistrasse). See map p. Main courses: 23€–30€ ($29–$37). Closed 1 week at Christmas. The Italian dishes include homemade pastas. Grilled meats such as lamb and steak are popular. France. See map p. grilled filet of salmon in saffron sauce. and Austria.

V. this is the coziest and friendliest of Munich’s local restaurants. Maximiliansplatz 5. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to Frauenplatz beside the Frauenkirche). 254. and stuffed cabbage rolls. The tuna carpaccio with sliced plum. Thailand (lemon grass). . Everything on the menu is translated into English.m. Main courses: 110€–40€ ($25–$50). % 089/290-1360. but you may find main courses such as mushroom tartar. and lime is a delicious starter. and India (curry). See map p. Main courses: 21€–24€ ($26–$30). Open: Daily 10 a. Reservations recommended. V. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 10-minute walk northeast on Oskar-von-Miller Strasse to the entrance on Max-Joseph-Strasse). AE. See map p. La Galleria $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN The roster of dishes at this appealing Italian restaurant changes seasonally. cold melon soup. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. % 089/297-995. AE. homemade gnocchi with duck and figs. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). to midnight.m. MC. Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom $ Altstadt BAVARIAN A short walk from Marienplatz. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Bräuhausstrasse). or braised crab with polenta. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a.m. Fixed-price dinner: 48€–54€ ($60–$67). % 089/5502-9741. Japan (wasabi). Main courses include bouillabaisse with aioli (a fish soup with a spicy mayonnaise). and turbot in chili and ginger sauce. Spanferkel (roast suckling pig). See map p.–2:30 p. Frauenplatz 9. Am Platzl 9. Closed Aug 10–30. 254. roast duck with lentils. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 3-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). veal with arugula. MC. and 6–10:30 p. % 089/295-264.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 263 heavy and hearty with a menu that includes Weisswürste and several other sausages. Hot dogs will never taste the same again after your kid has tried one of these delectable little sausages. Nürnberger Schweinwurstl mit Kraut (pork sausages with cabbage. across from the cathedral (Dom). fried monkfish. and 5 p.m.m. You sit in carved wooden chairs at shared tables.m. Open: Daily 9 a. a specialty from Nuremberg) is the dish to try.m. No credit cards. to midnight.m. DC. 254.–1 a. fresh ginger. Schweinbraten (roasted pork). 254. Closed Aug. The menu emphasizes fresh fish prepared according to classic French cooking techniques but using spices from Malaysia (coconut milk). Hunsinger’s Pacific $$ –$$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL/ASIAN This restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices. See map p. No credit cards. Sparkassenstrasse 11.

254. % 089/2370-3800. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (the Rathaus is on the square). Come for roast meats served with fresh vegetables. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). See map p. and vegetarian Involtini (stuffed rollups). MC. Hackenstrasse 2. or the fish platter served with ragout and noodles. inexpensive food and wine. Ratskeller München has a dark. The daily special pasta may be something more exotic. or grilled steak (Rindfilet). AE.–11:30 p. this well-liked Italian restaurant across from the famous Hofbräuhaus is an inviting place to dine.m. Open: Daily 11 a. vine-covered restaurant housed in a converted mill serves hearty portions of traditional Bavarian food in a series of charmingly decorated dining rooms or at outdoor tables. % 089/219-9890.m. . AE. See map p. % 089/265-596. V. Try spaghetti alle pomodoro (with tomatoes) or penne ai formaggi (with cheese). Main courses: 8€–22€ ($10–$27). For dessert try vanilla custard with fresh berry sauce. MC. Marienplatz 8. AE. soups. In the Platzl Hotel. Main courses: 16€–24€ ($20–$30). Reservations recommended.m. The simply prepared pastas (Teigwaren in German) are always good. You can also get a good pizza. Ratskeller München $ –$$ Altstadt BAVARIAN A Ratskeller is a cellar restaurant in a Rathaus (town hall). Reservations recommended. in the Rathaus. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk southwest on Rindermarkt and Oberanger and north on Sack Strasse to Hackenstrasse). woody interior with carved wooden chairs and tables and painted ceilings. veal piccata with lemon sauce. V.–1 a. Asian-inspired vegetarian entrees. and white walls with wood-paneled ceiling. The menu showcases regional dishes but also includes some vegetarian choices. Toast the end of your Bavarian meal with a glass of wild-cherry schnapps. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). and pizzas generally are excellent. The menu includes freshly made salads. See map p. The casseroles. macrobiotic dishes. red-tiled floor.m. where you find good. Pfistermühle 4. fresh trout accompanied by chive-flecked sour cream and a potato pancake. Open: Daily 10 a. Rossi $$ Altstadt ITALIAN With its columns. like fettucine with tartufo (truffles). 254. DC. 254. you may want to try this popular vegetarian restaurant near Marienplatz. V.264 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pfistermühle $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN This old-fashioned. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight. MC. Prinz Myshkin $ Altstadt VEGETARIAN If sausages and meat dishes are getting to you.

–1 a. 254. Open: Daily 7:30 a. Open: Daily 9:30 a. Main courses: 14€–26€ ($17–$32). V.50€ ($ 3. With one of the fixed-price multi-course menus you may begin with a yellowfin tuna followed by monkfish with lobster raviolis. Main courses: 7€–14€ ($9–$17). Reservations recommended. tagliatelle.–3 p. % 089/290-7060. technobistro in the main train station.m. medallions of venison with mushrooms. AE. 254.m. Wash down your meal with the restaurant’s own beer. and finish with a hazelnut soufflé with marinated figs. takes up one side of this bright. where you can order simple dishes such as pork cutlets. The quality varies here. which you can rent for 2. Spaten-Franziskaner-Bier. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Fixed-price dinner: 120€–140€ ($150–$175). V. to midnight. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 3 p. AE. MC. Open: Mon–Fri 11:30 a. Breakfast: 4€–10€ ($5–$13). and spinach strudel. MC.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 265 See map p. Schwabing. See map p. . U-/S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk west on Tal and northeast on Hochbrücken to Bräuhausstrasse). Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. Sat 6 p.m. Bayerstrasse 10 A. and east on Johan-Fichte-Strasse). The choice of dishes is limited and changes often. % 089/227-735. U-Bahn: Dietlindenstrasse (then a 10-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse. DC. Main courses: 7€–18€ ($9–$22). 254. high-ceilinged. V. DC. AE. north on Leopold Strasse.– 12:30 a. to midnight. this sophisticated Michelin-starred restaurant has a modernist interior that reminds some of an airport lounge. See map p. V.–1 a. Times Square Online Bistro $ Train Station CONTINENTAL/SNACKS A bank of online computers.m.m. Tantris $$$$ Schwabing FRENCH/GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A famed culinary mecca since 1972. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk north on Diener Strasse and Residenzstrasse). Reservations required. and 6:30 p.m. % 089/550-8800.m. Fixedprice lunch: 62€–92€ ($77–$115). including pork and sausages.m. red cabbage and cheese Spätzle. and 6 p. MC.10) per quarter-hour.m. baked Camembert. MC. The Bayerische Teller (Bavarian plate) comes loaded with various meats.m. Residenzstrasse 12. % 089/361-9590. Closed public holidays and annual holidays in Jan and May. in the main train station. Spatenhaus $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This well-known beer restaurant with big windows overlooking the opera house serves hearty portions of typical Bavarian food at reasonable prices. AE. and I’d recommend it more for a snack between e-mails than a real meal. The bistro also has a section for noncomputerized dining. sautéed foie gras with plums.m. Bräuhausstrasse 6.

a glass of light wheat beer). The food. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight (food served until 10 p. Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 3. zither players. You can also order classic dishes such as roast duck with applesauce or roast suckling pig. In the beer halls. to 1 a. with a golden. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 10 a. You may begin with homemade cream of carrot soup or black-truffle tortellini in cream sauce. is located in the Englischer Garten at the foot of the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). Oom-pah-pah bands. an easy-to-find landmark. For a glass or mug of beer. or accordionists sometimes add to the jovial atmosphere. chewy. Isarauen 8 (% 089/723-2677. has tables set in a tree-shaded garden overlooking the Isar River. and order hearty Bavarian food at reasonable prices. to 9 p. The chef makes a great Tafelspitz (boiled beef). and atmosphere are much the same in the two places that I recommend.m. but keep in mind that you’ll be charged up to 5€ ($6. A simple meal generally costs around 10€ ($13). quaff Munich’s famous brews. In summer. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 11 a. drink. Saturday.m. not-too-salty crust and a soft thick interior. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south to Dreifaltifkeitsplatz on the east side of the Viktualienmarkt). it’s open Friday.m.25) for every Brezel you eat. expect to pay 3€ to 6. Bus: 52).m. a Brezel (bray-zuhl. one of Munich’s largest and most popular beer gardens. Munich’s big outdoor produce market.266 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Brezeln und bier (pretzels and beer) In Munich.). Main courses: 12€–20€ ($15–$25).m. friendly eatery is located on a tiny square just off the Viktualienmarkt. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Giselastrasse). to midnight. ߜ Biergarten Chinesischer Turm. The best beer gardens Munich is famed for its beer gardens (Biergartens).m. Munich pretzels are delicious. near the zoo. . tables are set up outside. Salty pretzels and large white radishes (Radl) are traditional accompaniments to the beer. November to April.75–$8). depending on its size. pretzel) is the traditional accompaniment to ein Glas helles (ine glahss hel-les. where you can sit outdoors. % 089/299-995.50€ ($3. Englischer Garten 3 (% 089/3838720. ߜ Gaststätte zum Flaucher. and Sunday from 10 a. you’ll usually find pretzels on the table. Zum Alten Markt $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This snug.

ceramics. many fine churches and historic buildings. See map p. and beautiful places to stroll.50€ ($7) adults. Give yourself at least an hour just to cover the highlights. Tyrol. Closed major holidays. pick up a museum guide at the information desk. The museum also contains a famous collection of Christmas Nativity cribs from Bavaria. for the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl and Augustiner Grossgastätte. 268. Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) Museum Quarter Pinakothek means “painting gallery. Admission: Tues–Sat 5. and lovely parks and gardens. and southern Italy. and textiles.25). Barer Strasse 27. To make the most of your time here. you’ll have to make some difficult decisions. see the “Central Munich Attractions” map in this chapter. free for children 14 and younger Sun 1€ ($1. fascinating architecture. and then spend at least two to three hours. decide which paintings you particularly want to see. folk art. When you see a painting you want to know more about. A major highlight is the Riemenschneider Room.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.” earlier in this chapter.m. Enjoying Munich is easy. The museum is so immense that you can easily spend several days exploring the two floors of exhibits.m.m. Free tours highlighting various parts of the vast collection take place on Tuesday at 6:30 p. which contains works in wood by the great sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). punch the corresponding number into your audio guide to hear a full commentary.–5 p. painting. furniture. The objects on view are among Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures.). in addition to clocks and scientific instruments. A free audio tour in English is available in the lobby. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Munich is a city bursting with first-rate museums. Sightseeing in Munich Munich is one of the great sightseeing cities in Germany. . Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum) East of Altstadt This museum contains three vast floors of sculpture. 4€ ($5) students.m. offering several world-class museums. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street).Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 267 For two of the best beer halls in Munich. but if your time is limited. % 089/2380-5216. For locations.” and the nearly 800 paintings on display in this enormous building represent the greatest European artists of the 14th through 18th centuries. and Friday at 3 p. (Tues until 10 p. see the listings under “The top restaurants.

asse ellin The resie gstr n- U s tra sse s-St rass e ens Gab e lsbe Schleis sh rass e rger stra Arc isst 2 5 asse Brie nne r Str 6 Königsplatz lstra uste Seid Aug Meis U erst rass e asse nstr sse Kar lstra sse se tras 7 Karolinenplatz sse Ma ens se rstra rsst ras Luis Ar nu lfstra sse S Hauptbahnhof U Elise GARTEN nstr asse Bahnhofplatz Prielm aye rstr asse i U Schütze nstr . Ho t Joseph 9 Se li nd ng ers tr.2 mi 0. 1 Zieb Sch Hes tras se Aug u i S U sten land str. Sonnenstr. Goethestrasse Schillerstrasse Landwehrstrasse Mathildenstra spitalstr . Neuh -Wilhelm-Strasse zog Her auser 8 strass e Sonnenstr.268 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Central Munich Attractions Alte Pinakothek 5 Altes Rathaus 16 Antikensammlungen 7 Asamkirche 9 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 20 Deutsches Museum 10 Englischer Garten 21 Frauenkirche 17 Glockenspiel 14 Glyptothek 6 Marienplatz 14 Michaelskirche 8 Münchner Stadtmuseum 12 Neue Pinakothek 3 Neues Rathaus 15 Olympiapark 1 Olympiaturm 1 Peterskirche 13 Pinakothek der Moderne 4 Residenz 19 Schloss Nymphenburg 2 Spielzeugmuseum 15 Theatinerkirche 18 Viktualienmarkt 11 NYMPHENBURG Amalienburg 26 Badenburg Pavilion 22 Magdalenenklause 25 Marstallmuseum 27 Pagodenburg 24 Porzellan-ManufakturNymphenburg 30 Porzellansammlung 28 Schloss 29 Schlosspark 23 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn U-Bahn eimers trasse s tr. Pettenko fer- strasse Hamburg Berlin G E R MAN Y Frankfurt 0 strasse MatthäusBeethoven. Schwanthalerstrasse Herzog spitals tr. STEFAN’S STEFAN CEMETERY ns tra Munich sse 0 ners se me nstrasse Mü llerstrasse Unte rer A U nger Sendlingertorplatz Bare rstra sse h-S tras se sse Luis 3 4 Dachauers trasse Ma x-Jo sep sse . Karlsplatz Adolf-Kolping-Str.2 km Blu Tha lkirc h Jah U ST.Nussbaum kirche platz e s as str urm w d Lin tras 0. ter str . ALTER BOTANISCHER e Sophienstr as s Bare Lenbachplatz U Maximiliansplatz Maxb S urgst rasse Senefelderstrasse Bayerstr.

aul tiner ras s 18 Residenz 19 Liebigst Thea Kar rsta Reitm ay rasse d-F llst Wein str. e rs U tr a ss e orstra Promenadeplatz Cuvilliés Theater stras hab Christophstr. ide nm tr. Ba ad a Erh ers Is rdt tra str ass e Deutsches Museum 10 S ar e Bürkleinstr.Ring trasse Strasse ENGLISCHER GARTEN Von-de r-Tann Osk Brie ing K. ibr Co rn ück eli str us as se en se as str . ns 11 ar do Frauenstrasse Ka e Zw nal t schs T h i er ass e rfs tra sse Viktualienmarkt Westenriederstrasse S er-R Jüdisches Museum München Maxim Knöbelstra sse ilians trasse Ste 17 Museum für Völkerkunde Thiersch Max Nationaltheater JosephPlatz Am Pfis Kosttorters Platz tras se Ma str. rns Maxim ilians brück e stra sse r W Is en Wi er S tra sse sis Gärtnerplatz z Fra Klen un ho fe rst r tra es Mo ras M tr.HOFGARTEN platz Hofg U arten strass e se dst ras se e Oett Un söl rasse 20 er- Residenzstr. rds Ste ins m Blu e tr. St. asse U Nymphenburger Kanal Schloss 29 28 26 27 ensch tr Hir rtens ga ellin 23 asse SCHLOSSPARK Am resie alie The nstr Grosser See stras nstr a sse se 22 Kaulbac hstrasse Zuccalistrasse Richildenstrasse Ludw ig t r a s se Kön igin s 21 tras se ens Schönfelds -vo n Türk le -Mil r. Scharnagl -R se Str ass Odeons. fing i S U 13 12 al Isartorplatz 15 Th. ers üll tra Inn sse ere Baaderplatz Ludwigsbrücke Ke Ro se ller str Reichenbachstrasse Ze a r pp lin str a Lille nstr sse asse Hochs trasse sse ass sse . str inge nne rstra s sse Prinz rege nten st nstra Galeri estra Theatermuseum nf e che Ler ld s sse tra ar ss e Wagmüller str. Frauenplatz Die ing erstr .. e sse nh eim er .-An na-Pfa rrstr. ner Kau str. -W Marienplatz 14 Im T imm 16 Rum Is fo tr.Vete rinär Huberplatz str.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 269 Königinstr ass e stra ss e Blüte nstra sse Akad emies trasse Ada lber tstra sse NYMPHENBURG Schac strass ke 24 Kleiner See 25 30 gstr Tür Sch ken University Prof.

on the east by Lerchenfeldstrasse. 268. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 10-minute walk northeast through the Hofgarten to the park). pumps.25) adults. and historical musical instruments work.m. 1866). Sun 1€ ($1. the first electric generator (called a dynamo.25). . the first airliner (1919). constructed in the 19th century.m. kid-friendly museum has interactive exhibits and an English-speaking staff to answer questions and demonstrate glass blowing. are popular nude-sunbathing spots. the stream that runs through the park. Bounded on the south by Von-der-Tann Strasse and Prinzregentenstrasse. See map p. an island in the Isar River. and admire the view of Munich’s Altstadt from the round. A giant beer garden occupies the plaza near the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). the first diesel engine (1897). the first automobile (1886). Deutsches Museum (German Museum of Science and Technology) Museumsinsel Located on the Museumsinsel. This hands-on. the Englischer Garten also is the oldest public park in the world. Admission: Tues–Sat 5€ ($6. the department store across from the Hauptbahnhof. 3€ ($3.m. You can pick up expensive picnic goodies at Alois Dallmayr (see “Dining Out.75) students and seniors. Tram: 18 to Deutsches Museum (the tram stops outside the museum). The Automobile department in the basement is noteworthy. and Bugatti vehicles. Opel. on the west by Königinstrasse. hilltop temple called the Monopteros. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Prinzregentenstrasse 3.” earlier in this chapter).50€ ($11) adults. Its huge collection of scientific and technological treasures includes the first electric locomotive (1879). and lake. 268. and how steam engines. The park is a lovely place to have a picnic. this is the largest science and technology museum in the world and one of the most popular attractions in Germany. and an assortment of military aircraft.). (Wed until 8 p. you see a biplane flown by the Wright brothers in 1908. See map p.75) students and children 6–16.–5 p. 268. with a collection of luxury Daimler. Established in 1789. % 089/211-2401. You can wander for hours along the tree-shaded walks. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 10minute walk north on Wagmüllerstrasse and east on Prinzregentenstrasse). Closed major holidays.–5 p. papermaking. and the laboratory bench at which the atom first was split (1938). free for children younger than 18. (Thurs until 8 p.270 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p.m. or at Hertie. % 089/21791. In the Aeronautics section. Admission: 8. Englischer Garten (English Garden) Northwest of Altstadt Munich’s famous city park is one of the largest (922 acres) and most beautiful city parks in Europe. Spending half a day here is easy.m. 3€ ($3.). streams. Open: Daily 9 a. Museumsinsel 1. or less-expensive fare from the Viktualienmarkt (the produce market described later in this section).m. The banks of the Eisbach.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 271 Deutsches Museum Ceramics Glass Technical Toys Paper Writing & Printing Second Floor Ground Floor Aeronautics Glassblowing Special Exhibition Textile PhotoTechnology graphy New Energy Techniques Fraunhofer Room Brander Room Hall of Fame History of Museum Industrial Chemistry Physics Optics First Floor AeroSailing Wherry nautics Atomic & Nuclear Physics Telecommunications Musical Instruments Chemistry Oil & Natural Surface Gas Mining Turbines Metallurgy Machine Tools Welding & Soldering Ground Floor Mineral Power Machinery Resources Entrance Hall Marine Navigation Electrical Power Hydraulic Engineering Rescue Cruiser Wind Mill Vehicle Engineering Courtyard Museum Shop Roads & Bridges Tunneling Tower Railways Model Mountain Railways Railways Oil & Gas Mining Ore Dressing Power Machinery Basement Modern Mining Motor Vehicles Marine Navigation Hydraulic Engineering Motor Vehicles .

To the right of the Neues Rathaus stands the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall). 15th-century Gothic tower.50€ ($ 3. Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady) Altstadt Munich’s largest church.–7 p. during the holiday seasons) when the 43-bell Glockenspiel (carillon) on the 280foot central spire of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) goes through its paces. Open: Church Sat–Thurs 7 a. open daily from 10 a. Only its landmark twin onion-domed towers from 1525 remained standing. Inside is the Spielzeugmuseum (% 089/294-001). a historical toy collection.75 (95¢) for children 6 to 18.50 (65¢) for children. The rebuilt church is strikingly simple and dignified. See map p. and. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz.50€ ($2) students. because many of the city’s attractions are clustered in the vicinity. built in 19thcentury Gothic style and famous for its Glockenspiel (see the sidebar “Watching the Glockenspiel” in this chapter). daily (also at noon and 5 p. 0. The tower is open Monday to Friday from 9 a.m. Brightly painted mechanical figures reenact two famous events from Munich’s history: the knights’ tournament during the 1586 wedding feast of Wilhelm V and Renate of Lorraine. On the north side of Marienplatz is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall). 268. Marienplatz Altstadt This large pedestrian-only square in the heart of the Altstadt also is the old heart of Munich.–5 p. Chances are you’ll return here again and again. to 5:30 p. 268.m.272 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Watching the Glockenspiel The best show on Marienplatz takes place at 11 a.m.m. Frauenplatz 12.10) for adults..50€ ($ 1. to 7 p. You can take an elevator to the top of the Rathaus’s tower for a good view of the city center.75) adults. first performed in 1683 to express gratitude for the end of the plague. Admission is 2.m. See map p.m.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to the church).90) for adults. Admission is 1.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. Admission: Church free.m. tower Apr–Oct daily 10 a. % 089/290-0820.m. with its plain. 1. Fri 7 a.m.m. 0. the Schäfflertanz (Coopers’ Dance).m. completed in the late 15th century. and the view from the tower is spectacular.25) for a family. . to 7 p.m.. was a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of World War II (WWII). and 9 p. tower 3€ ($3.–6 p.m. and 5€ ($ 6. one level below.. In the center of the Altstadt.

m. (Nov–Mar until 7 p. You get a splendid view from the top. You find a cafeteria in the museum’s main courtyard. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults.m. Vincent van Gogh. Peter’s Church) Altstadt The bell tower of this 13th-century Gothic church.–5 p. (Nov–Mar until 6 p. Children love the third-floor collection of marionettes and hand puppets from around the world and the gallery of fairground art.50€ ($7) adults. Not quite as daunting as the nearby Alte Pinakothek.–6 p. 268.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2minute walk south on Rindermarkt). 268.50) students and children 6–15. Admission: Tues–Sat 5. starting right around 1800. and a bizarre relic in the second chapel (on the left): the gem-studded skeleton of St. % 089/2332-2370. dating from 1820.). (Wed until 10 p. A tour of the highlights takes a couple of hours.–6 p.50€ ($2) adults. Neue Pinakothek Museum Quarter Housed in a postmodern building from 1981. 268. % 089/2380-5195. frescoes. St. % 089/260-4828. 0.m.). among many others. Sun 1€ ($1. and Paul Gauguin. Admission: Church free. free on Sun.m. but you have to climb (and climb and climb) 306 steps to see it. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street).-Jakobs-Platz 1.75 (95¢) students. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. William Turner. Peterskirche (St. which includes the oldest-known carousel horses.25). .–7 p. who stares at you with two false eyes in her skull. Closed major holidays.).m. 4€ ($5) students and seniors. featuring ten carved and brightly painted 15th-century wooden figures. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. The museum’s one must-see exhibit is the Moriskentanzer (Moorish dancers). is known locally as Old Pete. See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Rindermarkt and Oberanger). Artists whose works are on view include Thomas Gainsborough. an audio tour in English is free with your admission.m. Sun 10 a. 2€ ($2.m. Joshua Reynolds. See map p. The second-floor photo museum traces the early history of the camera back to 1839. Rindermarkt 1.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Münchner Stadtmuseum (Munich City Museum) Altstadt 273 This museum chronicles Munich’s history and the everyday lives of its residents. remodeled during the baroque era. Caspar David Friedrich. Mundita.m. tower 1. this museum still contains plenty to see. this museum is a showcase for 19th-century German and European art. The interior of the church contains baroque-era sculptures. Francesco Goya. Open: Wed–Mon 10 a.m. See map p. Barer Strasse 27 (across Theresienstrasse from the Alte Pinakothek).m.

the Pinakothek der Moderne. Closed major holidays. including German and Florentine Renaissance.. free admission on Sun. which was almost totally destroyed in WWII.25) for students 10–18.m.). and others. % 089/290-671. Added to and rebuilt through the centuries. Residenztheater 3€ ($3. See map p. Kirchner. and the Altes Residenztheater.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.75) adults. Elector Max Emanuel decided to enlarge the original Italianate villa by adding four large pavilions connected by arcaded passageways. opened in September 2002.m. From central Munich. is one of the most sophisticated and beautiful palaces in Europe.–5 p. with three centuries’ worth of accumulated treasures.m. Residenz (Royal Palace) Altstadt This magnificent building was the official residence of the Wittelsbach family. 268. free for children younger than 10. a stunning rococo theater. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (the palace is southeast across the square).m. Artisans painstakingly restored the Residenz. % 089/2380-5360. (Thurs–Fri until 8 p. Guided tours (in German): Daily 10 a.50) students and children. Ernst. The most important is the Staatsgalerie moderner Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art). Admission: 9€ ($11) adults. Gris. Admission: Combined ticket for Residenz Museum and Schatzkammer 9€ ($11) adults. On the north side of the palace is the Italianate Hofgarten (Court Garden). Kandinsky. laid out between 1613 and 1617. and Palladian. 2€ ($2. You find four collections housed inside. displaying major 20th-century classics by internationally known artists including Matisse. Max-Joseph-Platz 3. the Museum of Architecture. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museums are across the street). You enter both the Residenz Museum and the Schatzkammer from Max-Joseph-Platz on the south side of the palace. and the Graphische Sammlung (Graphics Collection). 8€ ($10) students and children. the Wittelsbachs’ summer residence. the palace is a compendium of various architectural styles. and 12:30 p. from 1385 to 1918. In 1702.m. Design) Museum Quarter Munich’s newest museum. with arts and furnishings displayed in some 130 rooms. Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) Nymphenburg Schloss Nymphenburg.m. Picasso.274 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of Modern Art.–4 p. The must-sees are the Residenz Museum.– 6 p. Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a.m. Open: Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (the palace is on the same square as the theater). 5€ ($6. The palace was begun in 1664 and took more than 150 years to complete. Giacometti. Architecture. you .m. the Schatzkammer (Treasury). The other collections include the Neue Sammlung (Craft and Design Collection). Barer Strasse 40. the rulers of Bavaria. See map p. 268.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 275 The Residenz Hofgartenstrasse State Collection of Egyptian Art Fourshaft Room Court Garden Wing Stone Room Wing Trier Wing Festival Hall Building Entrance Hall Bavarian Academy of Science Battle Room Wing To w Chapel Courtyard er B ui ld in g Hercules Chest Ladies’ Floor Coin Collection Imperial Courtyard Apothecaries’ Courtyard Ground Floor Nibelungen Rooms 1 Theater Floor Imperial Hall or r Corrid Theatine Stone Room Trier Corridor Trier Room Papal Rooms Rooms Upper Floor 1 Entrance to Residenz Museum denz Old Resi ße Antler Corridor Grotto Courtyard Ancestoral Gallery Royal Building Courtyard Old Foyer Residenz Foyer Theater Fountain Courtyard Apothecaries’ Wing Wittelsbach Cabinet Garden Fountain Ruins of All Saints Courtyard Church Kitchen Courtyard m riu ua iq nt A Re si de nz Marstallplatz st ra t Vestmen Rooms Treasury Royal Building Max-Joseph-Platz New Residenz Theater New Hercules Room Charlotte Corridor tt lo ar Ch en t ak tr ’s st ür rf Ku g in sW om Ro Rich Ludwig I’s Rooms Porcelain Gallery Battle Rooms .

–6 p. 8km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection. A factory on the grounds of Schloss Nymphenburg still produces the famous Nymphenburg porcelain. this church is Munich’s finest example of Italian baroque architecture. admission to all attractions 10€ ($13) adults. with an 18th-century swimming pool. Theatinerkirche (Church of the Theatines) Altstadt Named for the Theatines. and the Magdalenenklause (Hermitage). In the English-style park. 16. is the Marstallmuseum. Nördliches Schlossrondell 8 (% 089/179-1970). Porzellan-Manufaktur-Nymphenburg. where you find a dazzling collection of ornate. Tram: 12.. in the rectangular block of low structures that once housed the court stables. a group of Roman Catholic clergy. you come first to the Great Hall. decorated in a vibrant splash of rococo colors and stuccowork. swirling stuccowork. 8€ ($10) seniors. has a sales room and exhibition center open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a. In the south pavilion. Admission: Palace grounds free. Open: Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. you find Ludwig I’s famous Gallery of Beauties with paintings by J. Fluted columns lining the center aisle support the arched ceiling of the nave. Every surface appears to be loaded with dollops of fanciful white stuccowork.m. The dome above the transept is decorated with an ornate gallery of large statues. Dark wooden pews and a canopied pulpit provide the only color in the all-white interior. Prettiest of all the buildings in the park is Amalienburg. Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. you find the Badenburg Pavilion. the raven-haired dancer whose affair with Ludwig caused a scandal. See map p. the Pagodenburg. the interior salons are a riot of flamboyant colors. A canal runs through 500-acre Schlosspark.m. French-style gardens. decorated in the Chinese style that was all the rage in the 18th century. The church was begun by Italian architects in 1663 and was completed by German court architects about a century later. stretching all the way to the so-called grand cascade at the far end of the formal.–4 p. to 5 p.m. or 17 to Romanplatz (then a 10-minute walk west to the palace entrance).m. % 089/179-080. full of quiet meadows and forested paths. You need at least half a day to explore the buildings and grounds. To the south of the palace buildings. including miniature porcelain copies of masterpieces in the Alte Pinakothek. gilded coaches and sleighs.m. . entrance across from the Marstallmuseum) contains superb pieces of 18th-century porcelain. 268. including those used by Ludwig II. Badenburg and Magdalenenklause closed Oct 16–Mar 30. built in 1734 as a hunting lodge for Electress Amalia.276 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany can easily reach the palace by tram in about 20 minutes.m. meant to be a retreat for prayer and solitude. Inside. free for children younger than 7. Stieler (1827–1850). The beauties include Schöne Münchnerin (Lovely Munich Girl) and a portrait of Lola Montez. Schloss Nymphenburg 1. and wall paintings.

Königsplatz 1 (% 089/599-888-30. and stay open until 6 p. Heiliggeiststrasse on the east. Wed).C. See map p. the Viktualienmarkt has been serving Munich residents for nearly 200 years and is a wonderful place to stroll and sniff and take in the scene.m. 2. Theatinerstrasse 22. five cheese sellers. U-/S-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor). and in other outdoor food markets throughout Germany. A joint ticket to the Museum of Antiquities and the neighboring Glyptothek (included later in this list) is 6€ ($7. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3.m.antike-am-koenigsplatz. 268. Multicolored marbles. Sat 10 a. .50€ ($4. % 089/210-6960.mwn. Here are some additional places to visit as you explore the city.m.m. Viktualienmarkt (Produce Market) Altstadt Located on the square of the same name.50). fish sellers.m. or other beverage at the beer-garden drink stand.m.–3 p.m. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). Most of the permanent stands open at 6 Finding more cool things to see and do Munich has many important churches and museums in addition to those described in the preceding sections. it’s 1€ ($1. you find two dozen butcher shops. 268. Admission: Free. is a remarkable rococo church built by the Asam brothers between 1733 and 1746. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk southeast through the square). ߜ The Antikensammlungen (Museum of Antiquities).– 1 p. to 5 p. a soda. remember two points: Do not touch the merchandise (doing so is against German food laws) and don’t try to bargain for lower prices (prices are not negotiable). close to Marienplatz. on Sunday. ߜ The Asamkirche. (until 8 p. www. Open: Mon–Fri 10 a. water. You can buy food at the market stalls and eat it in the beer garden if you buy a beer. and Tal on the north.. The Viktualienmarkt has a large beer garden.25) for everyone. Frauen Strasse to the south. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. In an area the size of a city block.m.50) for adults. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 2-minute walk south on Theatinerstrasse). and dozens of produce stalls.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. and 1:30–4:30 p. At the Viktualienmarkt. a whole section of bakeries stocked with dozens of different kinds of Bavarian breads and rolls. Saturdays.m. from a pre-Mycenaean version carved in 3000 B. weekdays or until 1 p.m. is an essential stop for anyone interested in ancient art. on Sendlinger Strasse (% 089/260-9357. wine merchants. from a mussel shell to large Greek and Etruscan vases. Bounded by Prälat-Zistl-Strasse on the west. The museum’s five main-floor halls house more than 650 Greek vases.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 277 See map p.m.

m. One visits Schloss Nymphenburg (daily at 2:30 p. and a haunting collection of Roman portraits. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3.m. another goes to the Olympic Area where you can climb its 960-foot Olympic Tower (daily at 2:30 p.278 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany gold leaf. to 5 p. ߜ Located across from the Antikensammlungen (see the first entry in this list).m.m. Various events.. and 4 p. Sunday from 6:45 a.10) for children younger than 16.m.m. The church is open daily from 8 a. plus another at 10 a. and 5 p. site of the 1972 Olympic games. on Sunday.50) for adults. including concerts. the Glyptothek. and silver cover every square inch of this small rectangular church with rounded ends. Thurs). and 1.m. ߜ The Michaelskirche (St. to 5:30 p.).).m. ߜ Olympiapark (% 089/3067-2414.25). to 10 p. 19€ ($23) city tours that. The one-hour Stadtrundfahrt (city sightseeing tour) by Panorama Tours (% 089-54907560. everyone gets in for 1€ ($1. is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps. is open daily from 9 a. Neuhauserstrasse 52 (% 089/231-7060.m. spend some time exploring a single site with a guide. sits at the northwestern edge of Munich and is a small city unto itself. .m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). (until 8 p. to midnight. exhibits Germany’s largest collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture.000-seat stadium.autobusoberbayern. Tours depart at 10 and 11 a.C. They also run guided tours to the castle of Neuschwanstein. to 7 p. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. Panorama also offers 21⁄2-hour. The extraordinary view reaches all the way to the Alps.m. U-Bahn: Olympiazentrum).). Apr–Oct). A ticket for a ride to the top costs 4€ ($5) for adults and 2. Königsplatz 3 (% 089/286-100. Michael’s Church). U-Bahn: Königsplatz).m. 2:30.50€ ($4. 2..m. Seeing Munich by Guided Tour You have two choices for orientation bus tours.m. noon. a third spends time in the Alte Pinakothek (Tues–Sun at 10 a. Here you find sixth-century-B. daily (Apr–Oct also at 11:30 a. a colossal Sleeping Satyr from the Hellenistic period. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 a. 2.m.) television tower in the center of the park. in addition to the city orientation tour.50€ ($ is a straightforward affair — just hop on in front of the Hauptbahnhof and buy your 11€ ($13) ticket onboard.m.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. Olympiaturm (% 089/3067-2750).. 3. kouroi (statues of youths). a single-nave church with a barrel-vaulted ceiling completed in 1597.m. the 293m-high (960-ft. www. take place at the colossal 69.

m. under the tower of the Altes Rathaus on Marienplatz. 24€ ($29) spins around the sights of central Munich (including 45 minutes in a beer garden). To get to the camp.m. The company offers several options. growing numbers of Jews. lasting about . enter rooms in which citizens were stripped of all their belongings and rights. April 16 through August. at 11:30 a. disease.mikesbiketours. admission is free. followed soon after by “beggars. Himmler ordered the first German concentration camp to be set up in Dachau. and more than 32. Mike’s offers four-hour. Visitors now follow the route of the prisoners. are a great way to find out about Munich’s history and architecture. February through November. Dachau did not have gas chambers..munich walktours. The camp is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m.000 prisoners arrived (the exact number is unknown). www. and mass executions by shooting. Hitler’s Munich. tour. you can tour Munich by bicycle with the English-speaking ex-pats at Mike’s Bike Tours (% 089/2554-3988 or 0172/852-0660. 19km (12 miles) northwest of Munich. take S-Bahn train S2 from the Hauptbahnhof to Dachau (direction: Petershausen). The 21⁄4-hour City Walk Tour starts daily at 10:45 a.” “antisocial elements.m.000 died. but displays showing prisoners’ faces and videos of survivor interviews put a very human face on the horrific pain and suffering endured by these ordinary citizens. In 2002. were redesigned to focus on the fate of the prisoners and to integrate the still-existing historic buildings into the reworked permanent exhibition. Jehovah’s Witnesses.m. and then transfer to bus 724 or 726 to the camp. All tours meet 15 minutes before setting off.m. In June and July. No need to reserve. after 1938. www. The daily tours leave at 2:30 p. Alte-Roemar-Strasse 75 (% 08131/1741). Between 1933 and 1945..Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 279 Dachau: Germany’s first concentration camp In 1933. you pay the guide (identifiable by a yellow sign). conducted in English. Inscribed boards show the rooms’ original conditions and functions. after disinfecting. The first to arrive were political prisoners (Communists and Social Democrats).m. and 4 p. parts of the KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau (Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial).” homosexuals. September to November 10 and March to April 15. shortly after Hitler became German chancellor. Captions are in German and English. to 5 p. Prisoners died through work. the meeting point for all walks is the New Rathaus directly under the Glockenspiel on Marienplatz. there’s also a 5:15 p. The names of many of the dead are not known. For a more active and where. they were given a striped prison uniform. more than 206. Munich Walk Tours (% 0171/274-0204. hunger.

tree ornaments. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). and piping hot Glühwein. . Munich ranks right up there with Paris and London. folk art. Bogner. is the place for all kinds of high-quality loden (a waterproof wool) wear.280 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 21⁄2 hours. however. across from the main train station. fruitcakes. handicrafts. Sometimes called “the Bloomingdale’s of Germany. Bahnhofplatz 7 (% 089/55120. This city is not one in which you’re likely to find many bargains. Marienplatz at Christmas Marienplatz. the plaza overflows with stalls selling toys. such as coats. founded in 1842. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). or Christmas Market. allpurpose department store. and when the topic is shopping. and Rudolph Moshammer. 9€ ($11) for those younger than 26. including gingerbread. Shopping for Local Treasures Munich is the fashion capital of Germany. General shopping is less pricey on and around Marienplatz and along the main pedestrian streets Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauser Strasse. The cost for each tour is 10€ ($13 for adults). Am Platzl 1/Sparkassenstrasse 10 (% 089/220-163. From late November through December. has a large selection of high-quality Bavarian costumes. and hats. Maffeistrasse. smoked meats. the main square of the inner city. The best streets for elegant boutiques and specialty shops are Briennerstrasse. Joop. and Theatinestrasse. covers all the important facts and sites that played a role in Munich’s Nazi era. is Munich’s best department store and a good place to shop for handmade crafts from all across Germany. a spiced red wine. is the scene of a famous Christkindl Markt. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). and a mouthwatering array of traditional snacks and sweets. Loden-Frey. is a good. Marienplatz 11 (% 089/236-910. and handicrafts. Dirndls (traditional German dresses). On these streets. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Dirndl-Ecke. free for children younger than 14. Maximilianstrasse (which also has the leading art galleries). Max Dietl. The biggest concentration of shops selling secondhand goods is on Westenriederstrasse. Antiques devotees with deep pockets find what they want on Ottostrasse. Hertie’s.” Ludwig Beck am Rathauseck. jackets. Maffeistrasse 7–9 (% 089/210-390. you find branches of all the top European couturiers and Germany’s and Munich’s own designers: Jil Sander. sugarcoated almonds.

Tram: 19). The club hours are . or midnight. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Few cities in Europe can rival Munich for the sheer number of musical and theatrical events.staatsoper. smoke-filled hangout for writers. and the occasional celeb.m. S-Bahn: Rosenheimerplatz). (See “The best beer gardens” earlier in this chapter.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 281 Discovering Nightlife in Munich Something always is going on in Munich. The best way to purchase tickets is to go directly to the venue’s box office. tend to get going around 11 p.m. Herrnstrasse 30 (% 089/291-884. pick up a copy of Monatsprogramm (1. The famous Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra. and Sunday from 9 a. called a Kasse.50€/$2) from one of the tourist offices. the jewel-box rococo theater in the Residenz (see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z.muenchnerphilharmoniker.m. Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera. Leopoldstrasse 7 (% 089/333-333. Munich is renowned for its opera and symphony concerts and theater. to midnight. In a cafe. Residenzstrasse 1 (% 089/ 2185-1940. you can sit with a coffee or a drink and order light meals or pastries.m. To find out what’s playing. artists. Performances of both opera and ballet take place in the National Theater.” earlier in this chapter) also is an important performance venue for plays and operas. The cafe is open Monday through Thursday from 8 a. to 1 a. is a sprawling. and enjoy the local scene. As southern Germany’s cultural capital. Bars and cafes Café Extrablatt. Nightclubs in Munich. which generally is open during the day and an hour before the performance. Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (Tram 19).de) is one of the world’s great opera companies.) You also find plenty of bars and dance clubs for late-night partying. S-Bahn: Isartor). Altes Residenztheater (Cuvilliés performs from midSeptember to July in the Philharmonic Hall in the Gasteig Kulturzentrum (Cultural Center). www.m. to midnight. % 089/2185-1920. is a lively singles bar fueled by rum-based cocktails. www.. have a beer. as in the rest of the world. Rosenheimerstrasse 5 (% 089/5481-8181. U-Bahn: Universität). Havana Club. Checking out bars and clubs Cafes are quiet in the afternoon but pick up noise and steam as the evening wears on. Friday and Saturday from 9 a. But you can sit back in a leafy beer garden or in a beer hall.bayerische.

m.m.). to 3 a.m. to 11:30 p. Nightclubs Set within an old factory. is one of the most happening nightspots in Munich. (don’t show up before then). call % 112. is done up like an Edwardian-era London club and attracts an eclectic assortment of locals and tourists. to 6 a.m.m. Schumanns American Bar. Currency Exchange You can exchange money at the currency exchange in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) daily from 6 a. and Thursday through Saturday from 7 p. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number. or for the police. and stage shows (which begin at 11 p. restaurants. No cover charge. Emergencies For emergency medical aid. mixed and/or invented by the owner. call % 110. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof). has computer discos start around 10:30 p. Charles Schumann. Business Hours See the appendix for details.m.m. writers.m.m. offers expensive cocktails. restaurant. a bistro. and soul. You can move from venue to venue according to your interest. For the fire department. Maximilianplatz 5 (% 089/595-900.m.m. use 089. and waves of “ordinary” patrons to its bar. Promenadeplatz 6 (% 089/2280-1465. Fast Facts: Munich American Express American Express.m. and is open daily from 7:30 a.m. .m. The bar is open Sunday through Friday from 5 p. to 1 a. is a complex of bars. to 3 a. and Saturday from 9:30 a.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). www. Kunstpark Ost. See also “Telephone” in the appendix.282 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Monday through Wednesday from 6 p. The décor is updated 1950s. Grafingerstrasse 6 (% 089/ 4900-2730. Tram: 49). All the bars open by 8 p. If you’re calling within Munich. The club is open nightly from 6 p. Tram: 19). The place is open daily from 9 p.m. attracting soccer stars.times-square. this is it. is open for mail pickup and check cashing Monday through Friday from 9 a. to 2 a. movie stars. to 12:30 p. and dance clubs. Use 89 if you’re calling Munich from outside Germany. to 1 a. 36 Maximilianstrasse (% 089/229-060. and bar. Internet Access Times Square Online Bistro in the Hauptbahnhof.m. Bayerstrasse side (% 089/ 5508-8000.m. the music is jazz. if you’re looking for a chic spot. Master’s Home. to 6 p.m. Nachtcafé.m. blues.m. City Code The city telephone code for Munich is 089. Frauenstrasse 11 (% 089/229-909. Cover ranges from 4€ to 8€ ($5–$10). If you get hungry there is a restaurant on the premises. If you’re within Germany but not in Munich. Tram 19).

m. and beer halls throughout the Altstadt. to 4 is the best site for general information.m.bavaria. Transit Assistance For information on the U-Bahn and trams. to 8 p. Most robberies occur in the much-frequented tourist areas. such as Marienplatz and the The office is open Monday through Friday from 7 a. and Sunday from 9 a. Post Office The Postamt München (main post office) is across from the Hauptbahnhof. has its share of crime. Saturday from 8 a. at % 089/4142-4344 or visit their Web site (www. You find more information on Munich and Bavaria at www. muenchen. like all big cities. 283 Safety Munich. to 8 p. a drugstore where English is spoken.m.m.m. Restrooms You find restrooms in cafes. and Saturday from 9 a. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. Web Sites The tourist office Web site (www. Neuhauserstrasse 11 (% 089/260-3021..m. restaurants.m..m. especially pickpocketing and purseand camera-snatching. to 4 p. MVV. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). at Bahnhofplatz 1 (% 089/599-0870).mvv-muenchen.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Pharmacies International Ludwig’s Apotheke. to 3 p. call the public-transportation authority.

gently rises through foothills covered with verdant pastures. the southernmost part of Germany.100 years. many Bavarians still regard that royal era with nostalgia. Bavaria remained a kingdom until 1918. one of Germany’s most beautiful scenic drives and one of the best ways to sample the delights of Bavaria.Chapter 16 Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring the medieval towns along the Romantic Road ᮣ Discovering Neuschwanstein. and nature on a grand scale. Upper Bavaria (Oberbayern). Bavaria abounds with romantic villages. lake-splashed countryside.” they mean only one: Ludwig II. both easy daytrips from Munich. or Romantic Road. Brief as it was. historic buildings. houses with fancifully painted facades. the legendary “dream king” (or “mad king. will give you a taste of what Bavaria has to offer. the region didn’t become a kingdom until 1806. rococo churches.” depending on your interpretation) whose castles at Linderhof and Neuschwanstein draw millions of visitors. Ludwig’s castles mark the end of the Romantische Strasse. When they speak wistfully about “the king. and groves of evergreens to the dramatic heights of the Alps that divide Germany and western Austria. A . the fairy-tale castle of Ludwig II ᮣ Visiting the alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen ᮣ Day-tripping to Oberammergau and Schloss Linderhof lthough Bavaria’s recorded history dates back some 1. when a German republic replaced the Bavarian monarchy. Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. Visitors find a great deal to enjoy in this mountainous region in addition to Ludwig’s castles. world-class ski and winter-sports resorts. by order of Napoleon.

romantischestrasse. renting a car at Frankfurt airport (Chapter 20) is easy. many of them rebuilt after World War II (WWII). Augsburg. or Romantic Road. you can hit all the highlights. Würzburg was in ancient times an important town in the duchy of Franconia. In three or four days of very easy driving. The charms of this old. people generally use the greeting grüss Gott (pronounced grease got) rather than guten Morgen (good morning) or guten Tag (good day). The two sights of most .de). graceful river and wine town are most obvious in the Altstadt. which spread across southcentral Germany. The saying means. Würzburg: Franconian Fortress Würzburg on the River Main is a lovely. travelers enjoy an unfolding panorama of surprisingly beautiful rural landscapes interspersed with a host of small medieval cities. the old city center with its leafy squares and historic buildings. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. all of which I describe later in this chapter. “God greets you. lively university town surrounded by miles of vineyards. The major towns for overnight stays are Würzburg. From there.) If you’re arriving in Frankfurt. For more information. winding from the vineyard-clad hills surrounding Würzburg south to the green alpine pastures and craggy forested peaks around Neuschwanstein Castle. who took possession of the town in 1050. and Füssen. fear got) or für dich (for you. The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria If I had to recommend only one scenic drive in Germany. were also princes of Franconia. and remained so until Napoleon ended the power of the church in 1802.” Goodbye is für Gott (for God. you can drive southeast 119km (74 miles) to Würzburg. From Munich (Chapter 15) you can drive 119km (74 miles) southwest to Füssen and drive the route in reverse. visit the Romantic Road’s Web site (www.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 285 Greetings from Bavaria In Bavaria. the official start of the Romantic Road. roughly. The bishops of Würzburg. Driving these 290km (180 miles) of specially marked lanes and secondary roads. You also can visit these towns by train as daytrips from Munich or Frankfurt. fear dikh). (See “The Romantic Road” map in this chapter. Though today it’s part of Bavaria. it would be Bavaria’s Romantische Strasse.

). in the Hotel Greifensteiner Hof (described in the preceding section). or anywhere else in Germany. MasterCard. For train information.maritim. and the Festung Marienburg. wuerzburg. Diners Try fresh fish in Riesling wine sauce. . take the A3 southeast and follow the signs to Würzburg. www. Saturday from 10 a. breakfast included. Marktplatz 9 (% 0931/37-23-98.). You can easily reach Würzburg by train from Frankfurt (11⁄2 hours).m. American Express. www. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday 11 a. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/ 35170. onions. to 6 p. and Sundays April through October from 10 a. is a charming 40-room hotel right in the heart of the Altstadt behind the (Jan–Mar until 4 an onion tart). www. and Visa are accepted. A standard double room goes for 60€ to 90€ ($75–$112) per night. roasted meats.m. fruity Franconian wines of the region go well with anything. with the big buffet breakfast an additional 15€ ($19). Pleichortorstrasse 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/30530.286 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany interest to tourists are the Residenz. and Visa are accepted. to 2 p. modern hotel within easy walking distance of the Altstadt. American Express. is a lovely place to sit outside on a warm evening and dine on Franconian specialties of the Würzburg area. Diners Club. is a pleasant.m.m. is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. and Sunday 11 a. Maritim Hotel Würzburg.m. with nice designer touches and a smallish bathroom. www. (See the “Würzburg” map in this chapter. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information on the city. to midnight. (Jan–Mar until 1 p. light. Staying in Würzburg Greifensteiner Hof. Munich (21⁄2 hours).m. Dettelbachergasse 2.) Getting there If you come by car from Frankfurt. American Express. Dining in Würzburg The Fränkische Stuben. or Zwiebelkuchen (zwee-bel-kook-en. and pickles in sour cream. MasterCard. The fresh. and Visa are accepted.m. Finding information The tourist information office. MasterCard. Diners Club.m.m. Main courses range from 8€ to 18€ ($10–$22). The medium-sized rooms are decorated in an unobtrusive contemporary style and have good-sized bathrooms with tub and shower. herring filets with apples. Each room is different.bahn. Rack rates for a double room run from 100€ to 210€ ($125–$262).m. to 3 p. the baroque palace of the princebishops.greifensteiner-hof. to 2 p.m. their earlier fortress-castle high on a hill overlooking the town. Dettelbachergasse 2 (% 09861/87809).

T. Rothenburg o.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 287 The Romantic Road Schweinfurt Aschaffenburg E41 E45 0 20 mi Bamberg 0 Bamberg 20 km Wiesentheid 3 E43 8 E45 73 Würzburg rzburg Werthelm 47 RO A D RO M AN TI C Castle Church Forchheim Erlangen 27 Mittenberg Amorbach 27 Tauberbischofsheim Lauda-k nigshofen Lauda-königshofen Röttingham ttingham 290 Creglingen 25 Bad Mergentheim Weikersheim Weikersheim Fürth rth Nürnberg rnberg Herrgottskirche HO H OH HE ENLO N LOH H E R EB E BE ENE E50 O.D. Schillingf rst Schillingfürst Ansbach Schwabach Roth 2 KIS 2 Heilbronn Murrhardt Backnang Winnenden 29 Crailsheim E43 25 Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl Ellingen CH E45 Feuchtwangen Gunzenhousen Gunzenhausen 19 Wallerstein Aalen 29 Schwabisch Schwäbisch Gmünd Gm nd rdlingen Nördlingen 25 ALB Harburg 16 FR Ingolstadt Neuberg-ander-Donau Donauw rth Donauwörth AD RO AD RO AN CC M TITI RO AN M RO 16 16 Ellwangen (Jagst) UC H Heidenheim an der Brenz Goppingen Kirchheim unter Teck E52 E43 28 Nürtingen rtingen 28 Dillingen an der Donau AN Ä 300 Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Munich 2 Ulm Augsburg 17 E A LB To Munich E52 E50 Ehingen (Donau) 30 E43 312 Friedberg Area of detail Krumbach (Schwaben) Olching Fürstenfeldbruck rstenfeldbruck Landsberg E54 am Lech TIC ROAD ROMAN Biberach an der Riß Ri 312 E54 Mindelheim Herbertingen 32 30 Landsberg 17 Memmingen Kaufbeuren Leutkirch im Allgäu Allg Kempten Immenstadt im Allgäu Allg Lindau Sonthofen Diessen Ammersee Starnberg Herrsching Hohenfurch Hohen B2 Starnbergersee E533 Weingarten Ravensburg E43/54 Markt.d.T.Schongau oberdorf Wildsteig Bo Wangen im Allgäu Allg de ns ee Peiting Rottenbuch Murnau Steingaden Wieskirche Wies Oberammergau Wies Schwangau 17 Neuschwanstein Walchen Hohenschwangau Walchensee Penzberg Füssen ssen B11 SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA LEC ER EN AL L P HT A GarmischPartenkirchen Zugspitze .

the Hofkirche. Kilian. Marienburg Fortress is a huge complex of buildings that includes within its walls the eighthcentury Marienkirche (St. Following Hofstrasse west from the Residenz. call % 0931/37-23-36 or visit the festival’s Web site (www. and Visa are accepted.288 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankish foods with an occasional French twist are served at the atmospheric Ratskeller Würzburg. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. with a ceiling covered by a huge fresco with mythological allegories painted by Tiepolo.).de). MasterCard. Exploring Würzburg The town is compact enough so that you can walk everywhere — except. which takes place during the first three weeks in June. to 6 p. a court chapel with colored marble columns and two important altar paintings by Tiepolo. perhaps. The restaurant. you come to the Romanesque Dom (Cathedral) St. Langgasse 1 (% 0931/13021). where main courses range from 6€ to 15€ ($7. Mary’s Church). or stairway. and the Weisser Saal (White Hall) and Gartensaal (Garden Room). the 345-room Residenz. reached by crossing the late-15th-century Alte Mainbrücke (Old Main Bridge) and following the marked footpath (you can also take the no. just north of it.50€ ($5. 9 bus from the Residenz). mozartfest-wuerzburg. Behind the begun in 1040 and rebuilt after extensive damage in WWII.m. % 09317/20-59-40). one of the oldest churches . was completed in 1744 by architect Balthasar Neuman for Prince-Bishop Johann von Schönborn. and 3 p. the liveliest square in Würzburg. Many of the concerts by renowned musicians are performed in the beautiful baroque rooms of the Residenz. Residenzplatz 2 (% 0931/35-51-70). Considered one of the most important palaces in Europe and a masterpiece of the baroque era.m.m. and. (Nov–Mar 10 a. is open daily from noon to midnight. you come to the Rathaus.m.m.50). the formal and elegant Hofgarten.m. for local transportation information call % 0931/36-13-52 or visit www. For more information on this popular event. accessible by a scenic footpath up or bus no. One of the annual highlights of Würzburg’s cultural year is the Mozart Festival. or roast beef with fried onions and potatoes make for filling feasts. both slathered with a riot of fanciful stucco work. admission is 4. Crowning the high slope on the west side of the Main is the Festung Marienburg (Marienburg Fortress. also is worth visiting. with tables on the square in good weather. up to the Festung Marienburg. the Marktplatz (Market Square).50–$19). The Residenz is open daily from 9 a. which will take you right up to the gate. Homemade sausage mixed with fried potatoes and eggs. American Express. Domstrasse (% 0931/3211830). Guided tours in English are given daily at 11 a. The most important areas to visit are the vaulted Treppenhaus. 9.wvv. Continuing west on Domstrasse from the cathedral. or court garden.50).–4 p.

rone eik Dr Th r te ea Karmelitenstr Mai nkai . Marktplatz Ka p E ic h h n or . e ls m m e S Kr o a t e n g a sse Platz r. in winter). Kilian) Rathaus n ai Alte M 4 Domstr. and the Mainfränkisches Museum. San der str. Kais sden Frie rücke b ikerst 2 th. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg From Würzburg.m.50€ ($2) students. H e i nes tr. wi gs r. Sand l a ci nts 0 1/8 mile Ludwigsbrücke Am tenden Stu haus Fr ie tr. 1. The one must-see attraction in this local history collection is the room devoted to the carved wooden sculptures of Tilman Riemenschneider.Berliner Wörthstr. Ot tr. - Re nn tr. tpo Lui lds tr. Neubaustr. r Augustinerst Büttnerstr. str d Lu weger Ring kai nen Kra n Mai 1 Juliu s e enad prom tr. 0 125 meters ACCOMMODATIONS and DINING Fränkische Stuben 2 Greifensteiner Hof 2 Maritim Hotel Würzburg 1 Ratskeller Würzburg 3 ATTRACTIONS Alte Mainbrücke 4 Dom 6 Festung Marienburg & Mainfrankisches Museum 5 Residenz 7 in Germany. Würzburg Munich Hauge rring .m. str genrin Koell Hauptbahnhof (train station) Rönt g erst r. the great Gothic master woodcarver (see the nearby sidebar).Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 289 i Würzburg Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Information er im he ch hö its Ve . the Romantic Road leaves the River Main and follows Route 27 in a southwesterly direction to the town of Tauberbischofsheim Ka N erg sstr. admission is 3€ ($3.m. rst ine z u tr. Juliusspital Schönbornstr. nstr. Pro Neum me nad anne Renn weg 7 MAINVIERTEL Saalgasse ALTSTADT Dom 5 er s chu lstr . Z e l l er S i Dom Altes 3 (St. to 5 p. Neue Universität g rrin de San rich Fried tos E b ter g Rin Südbahnhof en s d tr. . Alte Universität Bal HOFGARTEN Burkarder Tor Leistenstr. 6 brücke . str .75) adults. (until 4 p.

m. the master woodcarver from Würzburg. It’s interesting .). is one of the major highlights along the Romantic Road. to 12:30 p. and 2 to 5 p. has been a tourist destination for nearly a century.290 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Tilman Riemenschneider: Würzburg’s master woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531).m. is open Tuesday through Sunday 10:30 a. 47km (29 miles) south of Würzburg. This small. whose incredibly expressive wood sculptures are the highlight of the Mainfränkisches Museum. worth a stop to see the famous carved wooden altar by Tilman Riemenschneider in the Herrgottskirche. admission is 3. Another 18km (11 miles) on B19 brings you to Creglingen. just 51km (32 miles) southeast of Würzburg. admission is 1. Devoted to armor and weaponry. and from .80€ ($4.90). Across the road from the church is the small Fingerhutmuseum (Thimble Museum.75) adults.. this master woodcarver sided with the rebels and incurred the implacable wrath of the prince-bishops.m. admission is 1. if you’re into that sort of thing.m. attractive spa town is worth a stop to stroll along its pretty cobbled streets and to have a quick look at the Deutschordenschloss. Riemenschneider was imprisoned and tortured.m. As a result of his political views. where you pick up B290 to Bad Mergentheim.50€ ($1. to 5:30 p. . described in the “Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg” section of this chapter. created an extraordinarily beautiful altar with figures representing the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin framed by scenes from her life. serving as both a councilor and mayor.90).m.. a completely intact walled medieval city located on a high promontory above the Tauber River. you buy your ticket at a machine outside the church. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Sun 10:30 a. the Deutschordensmuseum (Teutonic Knights Museum.50€ ($1.m. The town. During the Peasants’ Revolt of 1525. to 5 p. The church.–5 p. It quickly became a place of pilgrimage.50) for children 6 to 12. % 07931/52212). (Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 2–5 p. He died shortly after being released from prison.20€ ($1. Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories Rothenburg. You can see more work by this great artist at the Herrgottskirche near Creglingen on the Romantic Road. and between 1505 and 1510. Riemenschneider.. dating from 1389.m. was built where a farmer plowing his fields claimed to have found a sacred host. . lived and worked in Würzburg for 48 years. % 07933/370). The church is open daily from 9:15 a.m. located on a signposted road about 2km (11⁄2 miles) south of Creglingen in Herrgottstal. a palace used by royal princes and the medieval order of Teutonic Knights.m. within the palace complex. the only museum in the world devoted to the history of thimbles. 1.

www. Don’t let that deter you from visiting this remarkable reminder of Germany’s medieval call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. You also can reach Rothenburg by train from Nuremberg. For train information. Heidelberg.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. continue south from Creglingen on B290. but you need to transfer at Würzburg or Ansbach and again at Steinach.bahn. or Stuttgart.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 291 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Ci 1 ty wall Bezold weg Kling enschutt Ro se e ngas Kling 3 5 Schrannenplatz Ju d e n gass e 2 G 4 e alg nga sse sen ga sse Klostergasse Herrn g asse 6 7 8 10 i DINING Burgerkeller 5 Gasthof Marktplatz 6 Ratsstube 8 ATTRACTIONS Castle Gardens 11 Klingenbastei 1 Marktplatz 9 Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum 12 Plönlein 13 Rathaus und er Ratstrinkstube 7 R iv r e Reichsstadtmuseum 2 a Spitalbastei 14 St.-Jakobskirche 3 e N a ug sse Ci Hamburg 12 ga eng W ty sse wa Berlin G E R MA NY am Main 11 Kirche Burg gas se Al a St dt t e gr a be MarktFranziskaner platz n 9 Rödergasse ll Frankfurt Cit y wall 13 T Heilig-GeistKirche 0 Spitalgasse Rothenburg ob der Tauber Munich ub Church Information 1/8 mile 125 meters i N ACCOMODATIONS Burghotel 4 Hotel Eisenhut 10 14 0 May through September you’ll likely encounter hordes of visitors. . (See the “Rothenburg ob der Tauber” map in this chapter.

www. The Gasthof also rents out simple.292 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Finding information Tourist Information. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. The Ratsstube.50–$13) for a main course.gasthofmarktplatz..m.m. American-style breakfasts also are available.50). Diners Club. a pork schnitzel with cream sauce. (closed Jan–Mar).de). serves hearty. Gasthof The restaurant is open daily except Wednesday from 11:30 a. on the square to the right of the Rathaus. prettily decorated rooms with views out across the Tauber Valley. Double rooms go for 90€ to 170€ ($112–$212). It isn’t gourmet by any stretch. basic. Standard dishes include Maultaschensuppe (stuffed pasta in broth) and Nuremberg sausages on sauerkraut. local cooking and sample local wines. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). housed in a 16th-century cellar (with tables outside in nice weather). The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday 11 a. to 11 p. Everything about the 15-room Burg Hotel.50€ ($9. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. more like German comfort food. some with a nice view of busy. to 2 p.m. breakfast included). Rothenburg’s premier hotel. is open May through October Monday through Friday from 9 a. rothenburg. has a tavernlike interior and is a favorite of those who prefer hearty cooking (including sauerbraten and venison) without a lot of fuss and bother.m. such as Käsespätzle (cheesecoated noodles) cooked with onions.burghotel. and Visa are accepted.m. 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber (% 09861/94890.m. from its half-timbered facade at the end of a cobblestone cul-de-sac to its large.rothenburg. Herrngasse 24 (% 09861/2126).m. www. is picturesque. and 6 to 9 p. including inexpensive rooms (38€–48€/$47–$60. to 3 p.m. Grüner Markt 10 (% 09861/6722. and 6 to 9 p. No credit cards are accepted. Marktplatz (% 09861/40492.m. Boutique hotel standards prevail. parking costs 7. Expect to pay 6€ to 10€ ($7. to 2 p. to 6 p. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. . Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Burgerkeller.m. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information about the city. in the town hall. and Sat 10 a.). is a pleasant spot to dine on good.m. and Jägerschnitzel. Marktplatz 6 (% 09861/92411).m.–1 p. carless Marktplatz.m. www. MasterCard. Main courses range from 8€ to 14€ ($10–$17). old-fashioned Swabian dishes. and the entire hotel is nonsmoking. and on Sunday from noon to 6 p.. (Nov–Apr Mon–Fri until 5 p. Klostergasse 1–3. American Express. Staying in Rothenburg See Chapter 22 for a description of Hotel Eisenhut ($$–$$$$).m.

to 6 p. November and January through February daily from 2 to 4 p. Former mayor Nusch accepted the challenge and succeeded.m.m. At the center of Rothenburg is the bustling Marktplatz (Market Square) dominated by the Rathaus (% 09861/40492).50) adults.) tower. in 1881. captured the Protestant city of Rothenburg and was given. 3. is the Ratstrinkstube (Councilors’ Tavern).30€ ($3) for students. This historical episode was performed as a festival play. Burggasse 3–5 (% 09861/ 5359). a 31⁄2-liter (6-pint) tankard of wine. part 16th-century Renaissance. and 1. called Die Meistertrunk (The Master Draught). From the top of its 50m (165-ft. look for a Rothenburg specialty called Schneeballen (snowballs) — crisp. . As you’re walking. shame masks.50€ ($4. The museum is open April through October daily from 9:30 a.m.m. General Tilly. when hundreds of citizens dress up in period costumes and re-create the period of the Master Draught. chief protagonists in the drinking bout that saved Rothenburg. commander of the armies of the Catholic League.. a dunking basket. and now serving as the tourist information office. Here’s a rare chance to see chastity belts. Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber Medieval walls encircle almost half of Rothenburg. Then just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere in one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. admission 1€/$1.–12:30 p. and an iron maiden. thus saving Rothenburg and giving himself a three-day hangover. and 1–5 p. during the Thirty Years’ War.25).m. You can buy them in bakeries all across town. take a walk on a portion of the town ramparts from the massive 16thcentury Spitalbastei (a medieval tower-gate at the end of the Spitalgasse) to the Klingenbastei (another tower-gate).m. to 4 p. He said he would spare the town from destruction if one of the town burghers could down the huge tankard in one draught. Admission is 3. Medieval crime and punishment are the fascinatingly gruesome subjects of the museum’s displays. The play forms the centerpiece of a weekend festival that takes place every September in Rothenburg.m. Windows on either side of the lowest clock open at 11 a.. For an excellent visual introduction.. part 13th-century Gothic.m. 9. Adjacent to the Rathaus. as victor. a 14th-century hospital with Rothenburg’s only 18th-century baroque facade houses the macabre Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime Museum). 2.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 293 The Master Draught: How Mayor Nusch saved Rothenburg In 1631. noon. an old inn with three clocks on its gabled facade. a shame flute for bad musicians.m. December and March daily from 10 a. you get a great view of the town (open Apr–Oct 9:30 a. 2. South of the Rathaus. the other half sits on a high ridge above the Tauber River. and 10 p.. to reveal the figures of General Tilly and Herr Nusch. round pastries covered with powdered sugar.m.

-Jakobskirche (Church of St. Just northwest of the Jakobskirche is the Reichsstadtmuseum (City Museum). One particularly pretty spot with lovely views over the Tauber Valley is Castle Gardens.000. a Christmas-related emporium loaded with thousands upon thousands of Christmas ornaments. armaments. a masterpiece created by the Würzburg sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider.. 2€ ($2. converge. the drive parallels the lovely. a collection of gold coins. Open hours are April through October daily from 10 a.294 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Gothic St. November and January through March daily 10 a. No must-see sights are in either town. Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance Augsburg is a city of pleasant surprises. Rothenburg has plenty of picturesque nooks and crannies to explore. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. Every day is Christmas at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Weinachtsdoft (Christmas Village). specializes in cuckoo clocks and carries Hummel figurines.m. described earlier in this chapter. The church is open daily April through October from 9 a.) The fine painted-glass windows in the church choir date from the late Gothic period. Herrngasse 1 (% 09861/4090). a park on the site of the imperial castle. and dolls. December daily 10 a. Klostergasse 15 (% 09861/700-620). is worth visiting to see the Heiliges-Blut-Altar (Altar of the Holy Blood).50 (65¢) children.m. and objects of local interest. Grüner Markt (% 09861/7166). Driving along B25.m. and kitchen.50€ ($1. With a population of about 260. to noon and 2 to 4 p. November through March daily from 1 to 4 p. convent hall. It displays medieval panel paintings. just the picturesque streets. 1. squares. North and south of Rothenburg. 0.m. leafy Tauber Valley. Admission is 1.90) for children 6 to 18. and houses. it’s the largest town along the Romantic Road and serves as a . you also pass neatly tended farms and fields.. James). Also look for the photogenic corner known as the Plönlein. churches. where two streets. an upper and a lower..m. to 5 p. to 5:15 p. Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg The charm of driving along the Romantic Road is enhanced by the bucolic landscapes seen between the villages.m.m. which is housed in a 700year-old Dominican nunnery with well-preserved cloisters.50€ ($2) adults. on the way to Augsburg.m. Two walled medieval towns worth a stop and stroll are Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen. music boxes. pewter beer steins.75) for adults. drinking vessels.m. to 4:45 p. Klosterhof 5 (% 09861/93-9043). Shopping in Rothenburg Kunstwerke Friese. (Riemenschneider’s work also is on view in Würzburg and in the Herrgottskirche.50) for students and seniors.

J ako ber uer ma Unt. Ulrichs Weite G a s e platz s K itzenmarkt t Pro vinos Schwibbogen platz R boldstr. Rotes Tor 125 meters gateway to the Bavarian Alps. em St. (See the “Augsburg” map in this chapter. ACCOMMODATIONS ATTRACTIONS Bert.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. A stroll through Augsburg reveals an attractive urban landscape loaded with historic buildings. 0 0 Church Information 1/8 mile Stettenstr. nto ue Fr a eg Ho he r W L au Mittl. Rathausplatz An 9 nas i Fuggerei Kap p ene ck Jakoberwallturm Vogeltor Z e ug g er . charming corners. Afra Prinzstr. r au lm allst e g Vo berw o Hamburg Jak Berlin Katharine ngasse 10 11 GERMANY Forster 12 H a l l s t r. Jakoberst r.G Ob Fugg r.000 years ago by the Roman emperor Augustus and reached its cultural zenith during the Renaissance. Brech Romantikhotel t Brechthaus 4 OblatterwallAugsburger Hof rstr turm Dom St. G ra b en i ter n rabe . ass ilian erg Maxim int W llee er–A nau Ade benstr. Ulrich und Kirchgasse St. under the patronage of the enormously wealthy Fugger family. and the lively ambience of a university town. theater Karlstr. Armen h ausg. Anna 9 a Un f. 7 8 Jakobertor tr. Graben i N us e rstr. Am S all ch w am Main Frankfurt Kapuzine r g Augsburg Munich r.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 295 Augsburg uz re Au f m de Je su i K St 1 2 hl e ass ng te rg Hofgarten Lu dw Obstmarkt Stadt. Trains from Frankfurt (trip time about 3 hours) Le ch h 3 r. .igst r . Spen e Mauer b P Ra u h ec w o ff st r rdsberg Leonha 4 5 6 P il g e r h a usstr. Maria 3 e d e Rirestaurant) (hotel and 1 Fuggerei 8 Steigenberger Drei Fugger-Stadtpalais 11 FünfgratMohren 10 Mozarthaus 2 turm Perlachturm 5 ü DINING b s n Rathaus 6 Fuggerei Stube G 7ä a elsu Schaezlerpalais 12 c a r St. continue on B25 south from Rothenburg to Augsburg. tenau Grot glerg. ethov enstr str . erst Be e str. rad– ra Kon chiessg S sse kerga Bäc . The city was founded some 2.

on Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. Diners Club. Diners Club.–1 p. Maximilianstrasse 40. from May through October. to 1 p. though the rooms vary in size and level of finesse. with marble-clad bathrooms with big bathtubs. Doubles go for 97€ to 130€ ($121–$162) and include a good breakfast to 6 p. where the rear dining room is paneled in pale linden wood and the menu contains lots of Bavarian and Swabian specialties. and Visa are accepted. Staying in Augsburg Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. augsburg-tourismus.m.296 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Munich (trip time about 30 minutes) arrive frequently throughout the day. and can help you find a room. www. 86152 Augsburg (% 0821/34-30-50. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.). Rooms are nicely done with exposed beams in some and small but well-designed bathrooms with showers.m. and Visa are accepted. www. Jakoberstrasse 26 (% 0821/30870). Expect to pay 12€ to 25€ ($15–$31) for main courses. For train information. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner.m.augsburger-hof.steigenberger. MasterCard. Auf dem Kreuz 2. Fuggerei Stube. American Express.m.m. (9€/$11). Dining in Augsburg For fine food and impeccable service in lovely surroundings. 86150 Augsburg (% 0821/50360. distributes city maps. an unpretentious local eatery. The best are large and comfortable.augsburg. www. the rest of the year (7€/$8. Service is friendly and efficient. (Sun in summer 10 a. Rathausplatz (% 0821/502-0724. on Saturdays at 2 p. and Saturday from 10 is the town’s full-service luxuryoriented hotel. serves generous portions of Swabian food with a few “inter- . dispenses general information. MasterCard.bahn. All tours begin at the Rathaus. Auf dem Kreuz 2 (% 0821/34-30-50). Larger (and quieter) rooms face an inner courtyard.m. dine at the restaurant in the Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. American Express. is a 36-room boutiquestyle hotel located just minutes from central Rathausplatz and all Augsburg attractions. The office also offers a two-hour bus tour May through October Thursday through Sunday at 10 a. Rack rates for a double room range from 145€ to 165€ ($181–$206).m. open Monday through Friday 9 a. The hotel’s new (2006) Meder’s Bar and Grill serves smaller-portion German and international dishes throughout the day. The hotel’s restaurant is one of the best in town. The 102-room Steigenberger Drei Mohren. The best way to appreciate Augsburg’s architectural and cultural heritage is by taking the walking tour (in German and English) offered by the tourist office daily at 2 p.m.m.

10 a. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a. Anna. Martin Luther stayed in the adjoining monastery when he was called to Augsburg to recant his 95 Theses before a papal emissary. The Augustus fountain in front of the Rathaus was dedicated on the occasion of the town’s 1. houses the Bavarian State Gallery. and 3 p.m. East of Maximilianstrasse.m.600th birthday in 1594. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. and still in use today. produce. on Annahof. Look for potato cream soup with mushrooms. A pair of churches. you find the city market with stalls selling flowers. Exploring Augsburg Augsburg’s main square. The Rathaus. onions. which can be visited only as part of a Rathaus tour (daily May–Oct. Maximilianstrasse. The tower. pastries. and roast potatoes. demarcate the southern end of Maximilianstrasse. you’ll be rewarded with a marvelous view of the old town center. Ulrich and St. Maximilianstrasse 46 (% 0821/324-4125). the Schaezlerpalais. and much more. West of Rathausplatz.m. and vegetarian offerings. The interior is famous for its sumptuous Goldener Saal (Golden Hall). chicken breast with curry and rice.m. to 6 p. on the Annahof.m. which contains paintings by Lucas Cranach and the chapel of the Fugger family. American Express. of what was once the Fugger-Stadtpalais (Fugger City Palace). ornamented by three large Renaissance-era fountains and lined with shops and fine patrician houses. 7€/$8. If you climb to the top of the soaring spire of the Perlachturm (Perlach Tower). to 3 p. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). Holbein. As you stroll along Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. A late-18th-century mansion. duck into the courtyard of Maximilianstrasse 36 to have a look at the Damenhof.m. capped by a distinctive dome called an “Augsburg onion” (you’ll see these onion domes on churches all across Augsburg and as you head south into Bavaria). Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.50€ ($4. St. is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. both considerably rebuilt after damage in WWII.... calves’ liver with apples.m. stretches south from Rathausplatz. fixed-price menu 19€ ($24). admission is 3. The church. stands St. designed by Elias Holl and completed in 1620. Rathausplatz. Right next to the church. to 6 p. to 2 p. you’ll find the Fuggerei. .m. and Cranach. Afra. next to the Rathaus.m. is dominated by two imposing Renaissance-era buildings. In 1518. or Ladies’ Court.m.m. one of the most important building complexes in Augsburg.m.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 297 national” dishes. The first almshouses in the world. Am Rathausplatz 2 (% 0821/324-9180). is one of the most significant secular buildings of the German Renaissance. on Jakobsplatz in the old residential quarter of town. noted for its old masters painting collection with works by Dürer.50). the Fuggerei was built in 1523 by Jacob Fugger the Rich. both dating from 1500.75). and 5:30 to 11 p. MasterCard. a former Carmelite monastery church dating from 1321. and Visa are accepted. is open May through October from 10 a.

m. One of the world’s most exuberantly decorated buildings. you may want to take a look at the humble Mozarthaus. Admission is free. but then the verdant (or snow-covered) pastures of the Bavarian Alps appear. and a 14th-century bronze door.m. Maria. To return to the Romantic Road. and a park. the lightflooded interior with its enormous cupola shimmers with a superabundance of woodcarvings. admission is 1€ ($1. Leopold. Auf dem Rain 7 (% 0821/324-2779) was the birthplace of playwright Bertolt Brecht (1898–1956) and today serves as a Brecht memorial. The church is open daily from 8 a. gilded stucco.m. a remarkable pilgrimage church in a beautiful alpine meadow (the name means “church in the meadow”). a church. statues. Dom St. the Romantic Road passes through some industrialized areas that aren’t particularly appealing.m.). Frauentorstrasse 30 (% 0821/324-3984). dating from the 12th century. this rococo masterpiece was created by Dominikus Zimmermann (1685–1766). to 5 p. Wolfie’s great-grandfather Franz Mozart.298 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Wieskirche: Masterpiece in a meadow On the stretch of B17 from Augsburg to Füssen.. admission to each is 1. to 5 p. Altered during the centuries. was born. The Brechthaus. lived in the Fuggerei almshouse at Mittlere Gasse 14. Some of the oldest stained-glass windows in Germany. backtrack to B17 and follow it south to Neuschwanstein.m. On this segment of the drive.m. The Mozarthaus and the Brechthaus are open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. If you’re a fan of Mozart. paintings by Hans Holbein the Elder. the Fuggerei Museum. columns. Behind a rather sober facade. where Wolfgang’s father. lets you glimpse the interior of one of the cottages as it looked in centuries past.m.). It’s open March through December daily from 10 a. Tiny but fascinating.25). Hoher Weg (% 0821/316-6353).m. to 6 p.50€ ($2). the cathedral features Gothic frescoes. 6km (4 miles) southeast of the town of Steingaden off B17. Surrounded by walls and gates (locked 10 p.–5 a. Ludwig II’s famous castle in the Bavarian Alps. where you find the Wieskirche (% 08862/501). (Apr–Sept until 7 p. who worked on the church with his brother from 1746 to 1754. I strongly recommend that you make a short detour to Wies. Mittlere Gasse 13 (% 0821/3198810). and bright frescoes. the compound looks like a miniature town with 67 identical cottages containing 147 small apartments.. Residents pay an annual rent of 1€ (equivalent to one old Rhenish guilder) and are expected to pray three times a day for the soul of their benefactor.m. . are found in the south transept of Augsburg’s cathedral. a master mason reduced to penury. a fountain.

Be prepared for long lines (sometimes up to 3 hours) in the summer. Finding information and buying tickets Information about both castles and the region in general is available in Schwangau at the Kurverwaltung (tourist office) in the Rathaus. Exploring Hohenschwangau The castle was a 600-year-old ruin when Ludwig’s father. 25. open Monday through Friday from 8 a. the nearest large town (described later in this chapter). Queen Maria of Prussia. to 5 p. When the time comes. A digital sign informs you when your tour is ready. Saturday from 9 a. it’s a 7km (4-mile) drive along a signposted road. Tours in English are available throughout the day. On the ruins. built by Maximilian II in 1836. . A ticket office near the parking lot of the castles sells tickets for both Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. receiving nearly a million visitors a year. A tour number and entry time are printed on your ticket.m.. 9713) arrive from Füssen. the most photographed building in Germany.m. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. The tour guide will meet you inside. Ten buses a day (no. On some days. then Bavaria’s crown prince. head south along B17 to Schwangau. try to arrive as soon as the castles open in the morning.) The royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein are the most popular tourist attractions in Germany.m. Neuschwanstein. Ludwig II spent much of his joyless childhood at Hohenschwangau with his strait-laced father and his mother. Maximilian II.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 299 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air Located 116km (72 miles) southwest of Munich. To save yourself time.000 people visit. You can see the castles only on guided tours. One parking lot serves both castles. was the fairy-tale concoction of Maximilian’s son. he built the Neo-Gothic castle you see today and used it as a summer holiday residence. to noon. bought it in 1832. especially in August. Hohenschwangau. The rooms of Hohenschwangau were designed and furnished in a ponderous “Gothic Castle” style that was fashionable in the 1830s and 1840s. parking costs 4€ ($5). is the less remarkable and more intimate of the two. which last about 35 minutes each. Münchenerstrasse 2 (% 08362/81980). the two Bavarian royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein (and the nearby town of Füssen) mark the end of the Romantic Road. King Ludwig II. From there. feed your ticket into the turnstile in front of the respective castle. Getting there If you’re driving from Augsburg along the Romantic Road.

who was first invited to Hohenschwangau by a teenaged Ludwig. A more picturesque way to reach Neuschwanstein is by horse-drawn carriage. he was found drowned in Lake Starnberg on the outskirts of Munich. The music room on the second floor contains copies of letters between Ludwig II and his musical idol. Ludwig grew bored with the affairs of state and eventually became more and more obsessed with acting out his extravagant fantasies. Alpseestrasse (% 08362/81127). the first palace that he built (see “A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles. self-obsessed monarch has become one of the legendary figures in Bavarian history. Born in Munich in 1845. he is “the dream king. named for the wall paintings depicting the saga of Lohengrin (a Germanic hero associated with the swan). March 15 to October 15 hours are 8:30 a. along with the physician who had declared him insane. and the grand piano on which the two played duets. 30-minute climb from the parking lot at Hohenschwangau Castle. handsome. which starts in front of the Schlosshotel Lisl near the parking lot. Was he murdered or did he commit suicide? No one knows. costs 1. Exploring Neuschwanstein Reaching the castle entrance involves a steep 800m (1⁄2-mile). Ludwig’s excesses eventually threatened to bankrupt the kingdom. If you don’t want to walk. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults and 8€ ($10) for students and children 6 to 15. to 6 p. Ludwig went so far as to reconstruct the Venus grotto from Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. he often had Wagner’s operas performed for his own solitary pleasure. and even a musical have been written about him. October 16 to March 14 hours are 9:30 a.50€ ($4.. at age 41. The bus ride. he was declared insane. The Hall of the Swan Knight. A patron of the composer Richard Wagner.25).” For others.” later in this chapter). the extravagant dream king financed Wagner.m. Tall. perched on a crag high above the town of Schwangau. a bridge that crosses over the Pöllat Gorge and offers a panoramic view of the castle dramatically perched on its crag above. Three days later. Ludwig II was only 18 years old when he was crowned king of Bavaria. films.80€ ($2.m. the walk to the castle entrance includes a steep. which begins at the ticket office. Hohenschwangau. you can take a bus to Marienbrücke. 170-step stairway and takes about ten minutes. is open daily. plays.m. From Marienbrücke. The carriage ride. is one of the castle’s most attractive chambers. costs 3. Michael’s Church) in Munich contains Ludwig’s grave and those of other Wittelsbach royals. Biographies. At Linderhof. Richard Wagner. and blue-eyed. The crypt of the Michaelskirche (St.40) for the trip up to the castle . The most famous of his design efforts is the turreted castle of Neuschwanstein.” This strange.300 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Ludwig II: Madman or dreamer? For some. For many years. to 4 p. Ludwig II is “the mad king. and in 1886.m.

The sumptuous ornamentation seen throughout the castle influenced Jugendstil. with the mountains in the distance. Decorated with marble columns and frescoes depicting the life of Parsifal. the site of song contests in the Middle Ages. In September. The throne room.) waterfall in the Pöllat Gorge. The intricate woodcarving in the king’s bedroom took 41⁄2 years to complete. another architectural fantasy. Building began in 1869 and continued for some 17 years. . At Neuschwanstein. the king lived in Neuschwanstein on and off for 170 days. Architects modeled the room. Tickets go on sale in early June and always sell out quickly. Ludwig watched the construction of his dream palace through a telescope from neighboring Hohenschwangau. After you leave the guided tour. Paintings of Christ looking down on the 12 Apostles and 6 canonized kings of Europe decorate the walls and ceiling. the castle can be visited year-round by guided tour only. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults.m. Located at Neuschwansteinstrasse 20 (% 08362/81035). after Wartburg castle in Eisenach. Be aware that the carriages are sometimes crowded. A stairway of white Carrara marble leads up to the golden apse where the king’s throne was to stand. From April through September. to 6 p. free for children ages 6 to 14. a mural depicts the legend of the doomed lovers Tristan and Isolde. tours depart every half-hour from 9 a.. he received news of his dethronement. A 20-minute film about the life of Ludwig II is shown in an auditorium.m.m. For information and reservations.90) for the descent. Through the balcony window you can see the 46m-high (150-ft.50€ ($1.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 301 entrance and 1. stopping only when Ludwig died in 1886. you can make your way down to see the enormous kitchens of the castle. Artisans carved wall panels to look like Gothic windows. to 4 p. The ornate bed rests on a raised platform with an elaborately carved canopy. Three days later he was dead. a mythical medieval knight. contact the Verkehrsamt (tourist office) in Schwangau (% 08362/81980). from 10 a. Everything from curtains to chair coverings is made of silk embroidered with the gold-and-silver Bavarian coat of arms. was never completed. the German form of Art Nouveau. 8€ ($10) for children and students. Wagnerian and other classical music concerts take place in the Singer’s Hall. designed to look like a Romanesque basilica with columns of red porphyry and a mosaic floor. October through March.m. Buy tickets from the bus driver or at the carriage. the Sängerhalle (Singer’s Hall) takes up almost the entire fourth floor of the castle. Between 1884 and 1886. The king’s study is decorated with painted scenes from the medieval legend of Tannhäuser.

you encounter no lack of restaurants (or hotels) right around the parking lot near Hohenschwangau. Dining near the castles Neuschwanstein has a pleasant cafe where you can get sandwiches.m. to 6:30 p. The 35 comfortable rooms are small to medium in size. to noon. desserts. 25. and Saturday from 10 a. Staying in Füssen Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten. Summer hours are Monday to Friday 8:30 a. where the restaurant serves sandwiches. take the A8 Autobahn west to Landsberg and then head south on B17. www. Its history dates back to Roman times. when Füssen was a trading station. and Saturday from 10 a. Füssen is an atmospheric place to headquarter while exploring the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau or other places in the Bavarian Alps. January 1. continue south on B17.hotel-hechten. Main courses go for 8€ to 16€ ($10–$20). call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. For train information. www.m. this town of 15. herring. 119km (74 miles) southwest of Munich and just 3km (2 miles) from Neuschwanstein. or larger meals.m.) Getting there If you’re driving along the Romantic Road from Augsburg. bahn. and Shrove Tuesday (the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday on the Christian calendar). has been owned and operated by the same family for generations. winter hours are Monday to Friday from 9 a.302 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Neuschwanstein is closed November 1. and 31. Finding information Füssen Tourismus operates two tourist offices. and beverages. Ritterstrasse 6. Divided by the Lech River.m. Otherwise. December 24. you can eat outdoors on the terrace of Hotel Müller. another in the Rathaus (town hall). the medieval town of Füssen marks the official end (or beginning) of the Romantic Road.000 inhabitants has lovely squares and narrow cobblestone streets flanked by medieval stone to noon. soup. to 5 p. most have small .com). Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road Situated in foothills of the Bavarian Alps.m. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/ 93850 for both. (See the “Füssen” map in this one at Kaiser-MaximilianPlatz 1. From Munich.m. This spotless guesthouse with blooming flower boxes exudes an air of old-fashioned Bavarian hospitality. If the weather is fine.fuessen. Trains from Munich (trip time 21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (trip time 5–51⁄2 hours) arrive frequently throughout the day. 87629 Füssen (% 08362/ 91600.

rstr.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 303 Füssen Information Post Office Railway inkel genstr. American Express. n Vo ZIEGELBERG 0 0. Augustenstra sse Schiess haus gas se sse trass e Mar nh of strass Sud e ete nst nstrass e Rudolf strasse -F Sonne a ass e e ss stra sse uiterJesa g s se Ga sse ngasse s tr ost Ott asse ras s Lu itp old s tr e Hoc re y be rg -St r KaiserMaximilian. be Glü c Hin te re k A LT S TA D T hen Reic St.25 mi N Zi e l ge Bgm .de). BAD FAULENBACH e strass Alatsee St. 87645 Schwangau (% 08362/9800. d- König-Lu dwi g-P hstif rom tstr en asse ad e bur ger stra str. 2 3 e kt) riss Mo nmar e och W Mag nu sp l. MasterCard. m er au er Rathaus 5 6 i Lec n t se d as 7 A Sta italg Sp d ( Dre he r Pfarrg. Rack rates for a double room with buffet breakfast range from 74€ to 84€ ($92–$105). The rooms all are furnished differently. Located in Schwangau.hotel-helmer.-Samer-Str . B m arotrkt F r a n zisk a n erg.-Mang 5 Lechfall 4 Museum der Stadt Füssen 6 shower-only bathrooms. Platz Se ba s ti a Schran n st nr ass gassne e e g asse i r.Sc hulhausstr. Mitteldorf 10. some have balconies.25 km Str.-Wa 1 der An dsaul Bil hhalde 8 To Schloss Neuschwanstein.-SebastianKirche ALTER FRIEDHOF Fra nzi nerpla tz ska B ru nn e Kemptener Str. Schwangau rsse Flo asse g . Rupprechtstrasse Ziegelangerweg Schmid Sch lesie str. most have showers in r gs tras se i llner- Wachsb leiche Church I 0 0. Schloss Hohenschwangau. Feriengasthof Helmer. be rg Tegel- Dr. www. Huterg. Kemptener Str. Ritterstr. a small village about 4km (21⁄2 miles) east of Füssen. Theresienstras se Bahnhof Bah Aug s iens Kar l- Ege rlan str. is a traditional Bavarian guesthouse with views of the mountains and nearby castles. The hotel is located directly below the castle in Füssen’s Altstadt (Old Town).-MaximilianKapelle ellenberg Kap Am F gässchen nbach aule Flos serg asse S t a dtbl iche e Hamburg Berlin uer Strasse wanga S ch e lbachgasse trass Müh S r e l ro Ti 4 Mü hle nw eg Lec h GE R M A NY Frankfurt Munich Füssen ACCOMMODATIONS Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten 2 Feriengasthof Helmer 8 DINING Fischerhütte 1 Zum Schwanen 7 ATTRACTIONS Hohes Schloss 3 Kloster St. and Visa are accepted.

serves a flavorful blend of Swabian and Bavarian cuisine. Menu offerings may include Alaskan salmon.75–$22). Hopfen am See (5km/3 miles northwest of Füssen.304 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the bathrooms. Specialties include homemade sausage. at the edge of a small lake within sight of dramatic mountain scenery. MasterCard. Main courses go for 11€ to 25€ ($ 14–$ 31).m. Access to the secularized church complex is through the Museum der Stadt Füssen (City Museum).m. Magnusplatz (% 08362/903-146).D.m. specializes in seafood from around the world. one of the finest late-Gothic castles in Bavaria. (Nov–Mar. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. Magnus died in 750. and Visa are accepted.m. The powerful prince-bishops of Augsburg used the Hohes Schloss. Now the castle is the home of the Staatsgalerie. In the early 18th century. Johann-Jakob Herkomer. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a. North Atlantic lobster.m.). Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/903-145). which occupies the former state apartments of the abbey and displays artifacts relating to the history and culture of the region. Stay here if you want old-fashioned atmosphere. as a summer residence. to 4 p. or grilled halibut. Reservations are recommended. Service is helpful and attentive. lamb. % 08362/91970). Zum Schwanen is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a. American Express. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. and venison. to 9:30 p. a local architect. Small and old-fashioned. A few meat dishes are also available. Admission is 3€ ($3. children younger than 14 free. fresh local trout. Zum Schwanen.m. and 6:30 to 10 p. to 2 p.m. Exploring Füssen Füssen’s main attraction is the Hohes Schloss (High Castle). Uferstrasse 16. where you find a collection of Swabian artwork from the 1400s to the 1700s. MasterCard is the only credit card accepted. including a collection of locally produced violins and lutes. Rack rates for a double room with breakfast are 78€ to 108€ ($97–$135). to 5 p. 1000. Dining in Füssen Fischerhütte. founded by Benedictine monks in the eighth century on the site where an Irish missionary monk named St. reached by a steep lane behind the parish church. Immediately below the castle lies the Kloster St. The Romanesque crypt in front of the high altar contains frescoes painted around A.m. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($8.m. (Nov–Mar 2–4 p.) and charges 3€ ($3. Magnus). Kids enjoy the nearby pool and find plenty of room to play outside.75) for admission. French-style bouillabaisse.-Mang (Monastery of St. roast pork. turned the church and monastery into a baroque gem with a strong Venetian influence. and portions are generous. Diners can enjoy Bavarian specialties during the summer in an outdoor beer garden. 1–4 p. The restaurant is open daily from 10 a.m.75) for adults. . Brotmarkt 4 (% 08362/6174).m.

The office supplies maps and details of area hikes and attractions. Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren $ Partenkirchen Located in Partenkirchen. located where the Lech River squeezes through a rocky gorge and over a high ledge. Two giant peaks.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 305 The Lechfall. Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze Located about 97km (60 miles) southwest of Munich. Getting there Trains run frequently from all directions to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. the fourth Winter Olympics took place here. the twin villages of Garmisch and Partenkirchen comprise Germany’s top winter-sports resort.m. and streets and lanes (particularly in Partenkirchen) with a quiet.) In 1936. the famed Zugspitze. to is open Monday to Saturday from 8 a. village atmosphere.m. the trip takes about one hour. and in 1978. you still find charming details: the sound of cowbells in the meadows outside town. is a popular walk from Füssen. To reach GarmischPartenkirchen by car from Munich. (See the “Garmisch-Partenkirchen” map in this chapter.bahn. rear up to the south of A pedestrian footbridge spans the falls. hiding Germany’s tallest mountain. take the A95 Autobahn and exit at Eschenlohe. and Sundays and holidays from 10 a. this family-owned and -operated hotel offers cozy accommodations at moderate prices. www. to 6 p. you can walk to all the centrally located hotels.m. Despite the commercial. Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoys a stunning location at the foot of the Wetterstein range. Garmisch’s main square. touristy air of the towns. Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen A free municipal bus runs every 15 minutes between the Bahnhof (train station) and Marienplatz. The Bayerische Zugspitzbahn at Garmisch (% 08821/7970) provides rail service to the top of the Zugspitze and other local peaks. The . call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. the Alpspitze and the Waxensteine. From Marienplatz. a waterfall less than a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) south of town. the towns played host to the World Alpine Ski Championships. Finding information The tourist information office at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2 (% 08821/180700.garmisch-partenkirchen. For information and schedules. The trip time from Munich is about 11⁄2 hours. the quieter side of town.

Closed 3 weeks in Nov.m. Fax: 08821/74548. is an excellent budget choice. summer hiking. See map p.m. and dancers provide Bavarian entertainment. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. and ragout of venison. grilled salmon.vierjahreszeiten. Ludwigstrasse 65. % 08821/943040. % 08821/59055. The food is hearty and uncomplicated: potato soup with wurst. The 13 rooms. a pretty garden. MC. 307. V. Traditional Bavarian and Mediterranean specialties are on the DC. Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a center for winter sports. and duck. Rates: 78€–112€ ($97–$140) double.hotel-hilleprandt. See map p. It’s a touristy scene but fun. Open: Daily except Tuesday 11 a. and 5–10 p. www.–11:30 p. MC. See map p. and a backdrop of forest-covered mountains. 307. Reservations recommended. Children younger than 6 stay free in their parents’ room. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). 307. Riffelstrasse 17.m. try a soufflé. MC. V. Gasthof Fraundorfer $ –$$ Partenkirchen BAVARIAN Visitors to Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoy this large restaurant because every evening yodelers. with wooden balconies. MC. an outdoor terrace. Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Alpenhof $ –$$ Garmisch BAVARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Locals regard the Alpenhof as one of the finest restaurants in Garmisch. Rates include buffet breakfast.m. are small but very comfortable. AE. % 08821/9270. Open: Daily 11:30 a. Rates: 70€–90€ ($87–$112) double. musicians. Hotel Hilleprandt $ –$$ Garmisch This chalet. Ludwigstrasse 24. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. some with a private balcony.m. For dessert. ham hocks with sauerkraut. See map p. 307.306 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 25 rooms are comfortable without a lot of frills. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). . AE. The best way to explore this international resort is simply to stroll around the town and its environs. Am Kurpark 10. Fax: 08821/18974. % 08821/9130. and mountain climbing. www.–2:30 p. V. V. Rates include buffet breakfast. Reservations recommended. and so are fresh trout. enjoying the panoramic views of the Alps and the colorful buildings that line the side streets. The tiled bathrooms have either showers or tub-shower each has a small bathroom with tub or shower. The hotel is close to the Zugspitze Bahnhof and the Olympic Ice Stadium. pork cutlets.

lst t st S t. Riffe 2 3 Kla mm str. M H au p t- P h il o Mü winkelst r. t s r platz z t spi et W rt Pa isa e s tr. enf a int Re Ha . . on Sat and Sun). and watch animals in the forest. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 307 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Herbst Alte Kirche Bu rgstr. or “high ways”). 1. wig L ud 4 n So nb ne r. The ice rinks are open to the public daily (except from the middle of May through June) from 10 a. rst ad Lo Z ug r. mst up str. ru g PARK ch Von-B h i c isa Richard. str 5 eld r. Bahnhof Par tn ch tna Pa r ch a u a ss ra A lps p it z e - ü ll e z-M Frit r eito Dr Garmisch-Partenkirchen str.St str. tr.m.Kongresshaus . - rt Ma Bayerische Str. spitz r. gst er te chna ar tin -S Sc ho en str. Alpine hiking is a major summertime attraction. fstr nho Bah Ol y m Ach tr.688m (5.2 mi . is the Jagdschloss Schachen Kr a ig s dw Lu str.20€ ($2. % 08821/753-294) in Garmisch contains three giant skating rinks with stands for 12.000 spectators. 2. s trasse fs ho hn Ba tr. the Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum (Olympic Ice Stadium. Zugspitzbahn inlstr.) above Garmisch-Partenkirchen and accessible only by foot (the climb is strenuous).En Lo zianen Kurhaus Straussstr. burgHinden s trasse s o p henw e nch g sse stra ne r. this ski facility opened in 1936 and remains an integral part of winter life in Garmisch. alst lent r.S To Jagdschloss Schachen/ Eckbauer/ Partnachklamm Gorge tr. ar tin s str. enjoy nature. with two ski jumps and a slalom course. r n st Höl r. The World Cup Ski Jump takes place here every January 1. One hiking destination. St . to noon (also 2–4 p. Like the ice stadium. KUR.2 km 0.628 ft. p ia Klam tr. On the slopes at the edge of town is the Olympia-Skistadion (Olympic Ski Stadium). 6 ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Hilleprandt 2 Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren 5 DINING Alpenhof 1 Gasthof Fraundorfer 4 ATTRACTIONS Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum 3 Olympia-Skistadion 6 Church Information i Post Office Railway 0 0 0. r. Rathausplatz str. People come from around the world to roam the mountain paths (called Hohenwege.M To Zugspitze Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt Munich Built for the 1936 Winter Olympics. Pr rs t ei n str. str.Chamonix.75) for children 6 to 15.m. om rk Platz a p m Am K u r er s 1 Marien..

The exterior of the lodge resembles a Swiss chalet. On Friday. Germany’s tallest mountain (2. from early June to early October. A round-trip ticket enables you to ascend one-way and descend the other for the widest range of spectacular views. (5:30 p.m. The Eibsee Sielbahn makes runs every half-hour from 8:30 a.m. Total travel time to the top is about 55 minutes. the cable car carries you to the Zugspitzgipfel. past giant boulders and rushing streams. and 27€ ($33) for children ages 6 to 15. contact the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn. At the Zugspitzplatte. The tourist office in GarmischPartenkirchen (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) can supply further details. in July and Aug). the Garmisch park bandstand plays host to classical concerts Saturday through Thursday..” in 1871. The round-trip fare is 44€ ($55) for adults.m.m. to 2:35 p.). Discovering the local nightlife From mid-May through September. Olympiastrasse 27. the Gletscherbahn. From here. Ascending the Zugspitze For a spectacular view of the Bavarian and the Tyrolean (Austrian) Alps. you transfer onto a cable car. Check with the local tourist . and 3 p. free for children younger than 14. given at 11 a. to 4:30 p.m. Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/797-900. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. The train travels uphill. A family ticket for two adults and one child costs 100€ ($125). You can choose between two different ways to reach the Zugspitze from the center of Garmisch. for a four-minute ride uphill to the Zugspitzgipfel (summit).m. a high plateau with sweeping views.zugspitze. and many alpine trails. Brauhausstrasse 19. 32€ ($39) for youths 16 and 17. disembarking 14km (9 miles) southwest of Garmisch at the lower station of the Eibsee Sielbahn (Eibsee Cable Car).720 ft. 2 p.m. The only way to see the lodge is by guided tour (in German only). to the Zugspitzplatte. the “dream king. The stop is next to an alpine lake and clearly marked. but the king insisted on an elaborately fanciful Moorish-style interior. a cafe and restaurant. you can go all the way to the summit of the Zugspitze.m.960m/ www. For more information. During the same season. a hunting lodge built by Ludwig II. 1 p. You need about four hours to get there and back. ߜ The second way to get to the summit of the Zugspitze is to take the Zugspitzbahn for a shorter trip. where you find extraordinary panoramas...308 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08821/2996). a gift shop. Bavarian folk music and dancing take place every Saturday night in the Bayernhalle.m. these concerts move to the Partenkirchen bandstand. which departs from the back of Garmisch’s main railway station daily every hour from 8:35 a. both involving a ride on a cog railway and a cable car: ߜ The first way begins with a trip on the Zugspitzbahn (cog railway). The entire trip takes about 40 minutes.

animals. If you’re coming by car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Prices start around 11€ ($14) and go up to 5. Most of the carvings are of religious scenes. the composer lived in Garmisch from 1908 until 1949. Locals have performed the 51⁄2-hour. a valley flanked by 1. the next one will be held in 2010. Hinterglas (behind glass) painting. and folkloric figures.000. sells a wide range of carvings.110€ ($6.000-ft. Schnitzlergasse 4 (% 08822/4271). but you also find drinking or hunting scenes. ߜ Tony Baur.800m (5. has the most-sophisticated inventory of woodcarvings crafted from maple. If you’re looking for authentic woodcarvings. 16-act drama depicting Christ’s journey to the Cross every decade since 1680 (the last was in 2000. takes you to Schloss Linderhof . A shuttle bus runs back and forth between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau daily. everything from small figures of saints for 54€ ($67) to jumping jacks with movable legs for 36€ ($45). Dorfstrasse 27 (% 08822/821). and linden. The cast for this religious epic numbers in the hundreds.500m to 1. is painting done directly on glass. a crowd from around the world converges on Oberammergau to see the Passionspiele (Passion Play). the next will be in 2010). and parts of 6. Competition is fierce for sales of local woodcarvings made in hamlets and farmhouses throughout the region. an art form unique to Bavaria. A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles A scenic drive through the Emmertal. and in reverse.) peaks. The twin towns also play host to a Folklore Week in early August and a five-day Richard Strauss Festival in June. Croatia. office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) for details about these programs. Know before you buy that even some of the most expensive “handmade” pieces may have been carved by machine prior to being finished off by hand. Every ten years.388). Actors must be natives of or have lived in the town for at least 20 years. the following stores are reliable: ߜ Holzschnitzerei Franz Barthels. pine. Performances take place in the Passionspiel Theater. take E533 north and turn west onto B23 at Oberau.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 309 Oberammergau: Woodcarvers and Passion plays An alpine village located 20km (12 miles) north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Passionswiese 1 (% 08822/92310). Oberammergau has been famous for its woodcarvers and Hinterglas artists since the 15th century. Actors first performed the famous Passion play in Oberammergau in 1634 when the town’s citizens took a vow to give thanks for being spared from the plague.

with stalagmites and stalactites dividing the cavelike room into three chambers. but the castle is open daily from 10 a. The parking fee is 2€ ($2.m. The rustic lodge was transformed into a small. which is a riot of neo-rococo flashiness. The park contains several small. to 4 p.m. including the Grotte (Grotto). Your ticket has a specific entry time. www.linderhof.75) for adults. the Grotto and other park buildings close. mirrors.m. Ludwig kept two swans and a gilded..) Getting there If you’re driving from Munich.25) for students and seniors. Linderhof is open year-round and makes a wonderful daytrip from Munich or Garmisch-Partenkirchen. and then drive for 13km (8 miles) on the signposted inspired by the famous Blue Grotto at Capri. 5€ ($6. passing the hamlet of Graswang on the way.310 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08822/92030.50).50) for seniors 65 and older and for students. The palace and grounds are open April through September daily from 9 a. When your time arrives. King Ludwig II decided to redesign this former royal hunting lodge to resemble the Petit Trianon at Versailles. You can see the palace only by guided tour. thanks in large part to the beauty of its natural setting in the Ammerberge range and its formal French gardens. swan-shaped boat. 6€ ($7.50) for adults. dazzling-white château overloaded with statues and decorations derived from many different periods and countries.m. The original colored-light effects still illuminate the room. the Grotto contains an artificial lake fed by an artificial waterfall and a stage hung with a backdrop scene of the first act of Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. Linderhof is not without charm. so arrive early or you may have a long wait. Exploring Schloss Linderhof In 1869. to 6 p. Admission in the summer is 7€ ($8. The ornate exterior is actually restrained when compared with the interior. tours in English are available throughout the day. take the Munich–Garmisch Autobahn (A95) south. Linderhof is an extremely popular tourist attraction. fanciful buildings. A sign at the front of the palace tells you what group is currently being admitted. Winter admission is 6€ ($7. which had artificial waves. in which he was rowed about the lake. For all its ostentation. glittering with gold leaf. A guide will meet your group outside the castle. turning west on B23 about 5km (3 miles) toward Ettal. the most elaborate of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale palaces. feed your ticket through the electronic turnstile to gain entrance. October through March. . and crystal chandeliers. On the lake. Built of artificial rock. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter.

300 ft. sunny climate. On the north (German) shore. In Switzerland and Austria. Visitors to the Bodensee enjoy the warm climate and stunning scenery.) is called the Bodensee. The Bodensee is Germany’s largest and Central Europe’s third-largest lake. vineyards slope down to crowded marinas. (See “The Bodensee [Lake Constance]” map in this chapter. Germany’s largest lake ᮣ Discovering the island city of Lindau ᮣ Exploring the Black Forest ᮣ Bathing in Baden-Baden ᮣ Wandering through the medieval town of Freiburg S outhwestern Germany is an area rich in scenic splendor. Looking south across the lake.) Atmospheric old towns such as Freiburg share the forest setting with glamorous resorts like BadenBaden.Chapter 17 The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights In This Chapter ᮣ Enjoying the Bodensee. it’s called Lake Constance. you . The Bodensee (Lake Constance) What is the proper name. the countries that share its 258km (160 miles) of shoreline. Vineyards and fruit orchards thrive in the region’s mild. you find the Bodensee. The widest point is almost 14km (9 miles) across. In Germany. while towns on the lake bask in an almost Mediterranean balminess. one of the great lakes of Europe. and charming old towns bask in the golden sun. In this corner of the country. you ask: the Bodensee or Lake Constance? Both names are correct. this 74km-long (46-mile) lake in the foothills of the Alps (elevation 395m/1. and the legendary Black Forest.

By car from Munich. The Altstadt. You even find subtropical vegetation growing in sheltered gardens. take the A96 Autobahn and then B31 into Lindau. occupies a small island in the lake (accessible by a causeway). you can get direct connections to Lindau from Munich. www. Finding information and taking a tour The Lindau tourist information office. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. stopping at Meersburg and Mainau. Lindau is on a major rail line. If you’re driving from Füssen. because you won’t be able to drive into the historic center. and the train station is right in the Altstadt across from the harbor. located 179km (111 miles) southwest of Munich at the northeastern corner of the Bodensee. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. you can travel by boat to towns in Austria and Switzerland and to Konstanz on the western side of the lake. Schützingerweg 2. was founded in the ninth century. Lindau.bsb-online. Several ferries per day link Konstanz with Lindau. Ludwigstrasse 68 (% 08382/260030.lindau-tourismus. and Switzerland. follow B310 and B308 west. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. but for the most part the lake is placid. is open April through October. Fierce winds from the mountains occasionally whip up the waters of the Bodensee. Italy. Konstanz (% 07531/ 3640-398). Day and overnight tickets for car parks can be purchased from ticket machines. park in one of the large car parks outside the Altstadt.. www.) A profusion of gardens gives the town a quasi-Mediterranean air. So many historic buildings line its narrow streets that the entire town is a protected landmark. the entire trip takes three hours. snow-capped Alps. and Zurich. From Lindau. Basel. By train. Monday through Friday 9 the newer part of Lindau spreads out to the mainland. and for hundreds of years the town was a center of trade between Bavaria. a lovely island city on the northeastern shore. across from the train station. or Old Town. Saturday . For information and train schedules. A town of pretty. turning south on B12 (Kemptenstrasse). Getting to Lindau Lindau is one of the Bodensee’s major transportation hubs. flower-bedecked squares and a harborside promenade. Lindau: Sunny island charmer The historic island-town of Lindau. After you cross the causeway. to 6 p. A road bridge and a causeway for walkers and trains connect the town to the mainland. and Hafenstrasse 6. Check with the tourist office in Lindau or contact Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. makes a good place to stay.312 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany see the towering. Lindau is a popular tourist destination that feels a bit like an Italian

L UX. BEL . am Main Frankfurt Arbon CZECH C ZECH RE P. A US TRIA AU S TRI A . REP. . NET H. S W I T Z E R L A N D Rorschach Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest R ANCE F RANC E Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Staad Bregenz A U S T R I A The Bodensee (Lake Constance) 313 S WI SW ITZ TZ.0 5 mi 5 km B34 0 Weingarten Ravensburg Ferry Üb erl ing er Se Überlingen Markdorf B32 B33 e B31 Radolfzell G E R M A N Y To Munich Airport E43 E54 Zelle rsee Mainau Immenstaad B30 B31 Reichenau Untersee Tettnang Eriskirch B467 Gn B33 ade nse e Meersburg Wangen B12 Konstanz Friedrichshafen B32 D EN M AR K MA RK B o Kressbronn B12 Hamburg d Langenargen Deutsche Alpenstrasse Berlin Romanshorn e n Wasserburg Lindau B308 B308 POLAND N E TH . GERMANY s e e BE L. LU X.

de.m. The location is an easy walk from the lake and casino. % 08382/704-242) provides halfhourly service to all parts of Lindau daily from early morning until 10:40 p.hotel-garni-brugger. two connected buildings with 64 rooms between them. More luxurious is the adjacent Hotel Bayerischer Hof.m. If you want a taxi. 88131 Lindau. the cost is 4€ ($5). located at the end of the causeway. is flat and easily walkable. Fax: 08382/ 4133. Staying in Lindau Lindau is a tourist-oriented resort town. The rooms are up-to-date and furnished in a functional. AE. modern style with lots of light. All three buildings share a lakefront garden with sunbathing areas. DC. Monday through Friday 9 a. See map p. The small. call Taxi-Ring-Zentrale (% 0800-60066666) or Lindauer Funk-Taxi (% 08382/4455).. Bei der Heidenmauer 11. You can join a guided walking tour on Monday (in English) or Tuesday and Friday mornings (in German) at 10 a. Rates include continental breakfast. comfortable. Hotel-Garni Brugger $ Altstadt This welcoming 23-room hotel. For information on boat trips around the Bodensee. and sauna. Getting around Lindau The charming Altstadt. November through March. % 08382/93410. . to noon and 2 to 5 p. from April through October. located right on the harbor promenade. tiled bathrooms have showers (two rooms have tubs and showers).m. Larger rooms with small sitting areas are in an older building (a glass-roofed conservatory connects the two). The group meets in front of the tourist office. V. is the best affordable choice in Lindau. Some open onto a rear balcony. www.m. Its harborside kiosk has excursion information and timetables. so hotels in all price categories are available. part of the same management. The Reutemann has large rooms and bathrooms with showers and big tubs. fitness center. Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten $$ –$$$$ Altstadt One of the nicest places to stay on the Bodensee is the upscale lakeside Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten. outdoor pool.m. MC. Rates: 86€–92€ ($107–$115) double. The décor is modern in both. some with lake views. the island part of Lindau. The Seegarten has flower-filled balconies and spacious rooms.m. contact BodenseeSchiffsbetriebe (% 08382/2754810). 315. to 4 p. The Lindau Stadtbus (city bus.314 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Sunday 9:30 a.

iespl P arad Z e pp e l in fpl at Hamburg Berlin 19 Se e ha f e n Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest ATTRACTIONS Altes Rathaus 10 Diebsturm 7 Löwenmole 19 Mangturm 17 Maria Himmelfahrt 14 Neuer Leuchtturm 20 Peterskirche 8 Römerschanze 18 Spielbank 6 Stadtmuseum 12 Stadtpark 4 St.1 mi 1 mm K l e i n e r S e eb rü ck e 2 Se e 0 0.1 km Eisen ba ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Bayerischer Hof 15 Hotel-Garni Brugger 5 Hotel Reutemann/ Hotel Seegarten 16 hnda 3 Ch e Rollschuhplatz Heidenm lle s-A lle e Rotkreuz Platz 4 DINING Hoyerberg Schlössle 2 RestaurantWeinstube Frey 9 Zum Sünfzen 11 8 rgeebe e Schn gass Au GROLL f W de ANLAGEN all m OSCAR- 6 Thiersch strasse gstr asse au asse er 5 zigerstr Zwan Auf der Mauer Alter Schulsse Schmiedga platz 13 r Grub e d n I er Kirchplatz msse MarktCra ga 12 platz 14 A L T S T A D T Stiftsplatz Strasse 11 Bindergasse sse stra g. erg rb Fä Sch ütz Lu Hauptbahnhof z S ro eep n ho eg i 15 me dw ig ing erw s tr se as Brettermark Rüberplatz t 16 na de 17 18 Bu rgga sse Dreierstrasse ertu en Hintere Insel Ludwigstra sse rmw Ba h eg Reichsplatz Ling teg msse Dam gas Pulverturm - Uferweg nilia 9 xim Ma 10 Fi s c her- Barfüsserplatz ga s s e 7 Schrannenplatz . Kron ngasse e . mm Kru elg Ins Pulv rab Da mm g.0 0. Stephan 13 Strandbad Eichwald 3 Strandbad Lindenhofbad 1 20 Information i G ER M ANY Frankfurt B o d e n s e e Lighthouse Post office Railway Munich Lindau Lindau 315 .

m. Fixed-price menus: 62€–79€ ($77–$98). 315.m. (From the causeway. Frey’s has outdoor tables on the pedestrian street and a small second-floor restaurant with a beamed ceiling and pleasantly old-fashioned ambience. Main courses: 22€–35€ ($27–$44). Dishes range from schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). The first-floor cafe is more informal. trout baked in a potato crust.m.316 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Children younger than 10 stay free. DC. and saddle of venison with flour dumplings and French beans. Fresh fish from the Bodensee is a specialty. % 08382/9150. Menu offerings vary seasonally but may typically include cream of scampi soup. located on the mainland about a 15-minute drive from the Altstadt. See map p. beef stroganoff. cafe Tues–Sat 2–4:30 p. Maximilianstrasse 15. local perch stuffed with herbs. MC. See map p.. Reservations recommended. % 08382/5865. Open: Restaurant Tues–Sun noon to 2 p.bayerischerhof-lindau. V. Dining in Lindau Hoyerberg Schlössle $$$$ Mainland CONTINENTAL The Hoyerberg Schlössle. Open: Daily 10:30 and 5–11:30 p. has few rivals on the Bodensee. Maximilianstrasse 1. Seepromenade. AE. V. AE. and baby-sitting can be arranged. not required in the cafe.m. V. dependable food at reasonable prices. DC.m. Hotel Bayerischer Hof 152€–291€ ($190–$364). Hoyerbergstrasse 64. Main dishes: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Open: Daily 11 a. . Zum Sünfzen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/BAVARIAN This old restaurant at the east end of Maximilianstrasse serves good. You may want to sample the local Meersburger wines as you dine on chicken breast with raspberry sauce. take Langenweg and Friedrichshafener Strasse northwest to Hoyerbergstrasse. AE. 315. See map p. and 6–10 p. or spinach Spätzle (a potato-based pasta) baked with cheese and ham. You can dine inside or out. at Lindau-Aeschach. with a view of the mountains and lake. Meals here are a memorable experience. See map p. You can drive to these hotels and park in the underground garage.m.) % 08382/25295. Rates: Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten 116€–210€ ($145–$262) double. MC. % 08382/5278. 88131 Lindau. 315. and roast pork with homemade Spätzle to filet of venison. The breakfast buffet is an additional 16€ ($20).–2:30 p. Fax: 08382/915591. Reservations required in the restaurant. No credit cards.–11 p.m. MC. Restaurant-Weinstube Frey $ Altstadt GERMAN The oldest Stubl (drinking and dining room) on Maximilianstrasse.m. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). www. to pepper steaks. 315. Closed Jan 15–Feb 28. DC.

D. silverware.75€/$2. Return to Maximilianstrasse and follow the street eastward to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). houses the centuries-old town library (not open to the general public). The tower is not open to the public. including barrel organs. thousands of lights create a magical atmosphere around the harbor. Lindau’s main pedestrian-only thoroughfare. The interior.” that once stood beside the tower.) Located almost directly across from the main train station. to 5 p. or “mangle house. The building’s stepped gables are typical of the 15th-century Gothic style. open daily 9 a. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. has . the name derives from the laundry. paintings. In 1928. and sculptures. On the east side of Marktplatz stand side-by-side Lutheran and Catholic churches. Standing beside the Diebsturm on Schrannenplatz is Lindau’s oldest building. Flanking the harbor entrance is the 19th-century Neuer Leuchtturm (lighthouse) and the Löwenmole. square tower. and historical toys.–5 p. erected in 1422 and notable for its grandly painted facade of a princely procession. The interior walls have late-15th-century frescoes by Hans Holbein the Elder. is the city’s most famous landmark.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 317 Exploring Lindau Lindau is best enjoyed by simply taking a couple of hours to stroll around the Altstadt.. the Lutheran church on the left. the church was built around A. the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower). but in the 16th century the building received a Renaissance face-lift.– 5 p.. admission 1. glassware.m. this round tower with projecting upper turrets and oriel windows once served as the town jail (hence its name). once used as a council hall. Saturday from 2 to 5 p.. and mechanical pianos. % 08382/ 944-073). At night. 1000. to 5 p. The museum contains a large collection of furniture (ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau). You can climb up the narrow spiral staircase of the lighthouse (open daily 9:30 a. A rectangular building with a flat wooden ceiling and a tall. Stephan. orchestral instruments.). the church became a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of World War I. 18th-century baroque town house called the Haus zum Cavazzen. and Sunday from 11 a. In a stately. Peter’s Church. Located just north of Maximilianstrasse.50). Admission is 2€ ($2.m.25) for a panoramic vista of the Swiss and Austrian Alps across the water. St.m. tin and ceramic objects. Rising from the promenade at the edge of the harbor is the 13th-century tower called the Mangturm. is the most attractive on the whole of the Bodensee. the town’s famous harbor. Built around 1370 at the most westerly point of the old town wall.m.m.m.m.m. completed in 1856. flower-bedecked fountain in the center. a pillar with a sculpted lion (the symbol of Bavaria) looking out over the lake. you find the Stadtmuseum (Town Museum. Continuing east on Maximilianstrasse and Cramergasse brings you to the Marktplatz (Market Square) with a pretty. the Peterskirche (St. The museum is open April through September Tuesday to Friday from 11 a. A special attraction is the collection of mechanical musical instruments. Successive eras saw the additions of other architectural styles.m.

50) for children.m.50) for children. and Saturday from 9:30 a.50€ ($3. something dressy. The biggest beach is Strandbad Eichwald (% 08283/5539). The churches generally are open from 8 a. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. .” later in this chapter). pronounced strahndbod) are open in summer Monday through Friday from 10:30 a. casino). on the mainland. The bike-rental office. on the mainland. you can play slot machines from noon to 2 a. is located in Lindenhof Park on the mainland. 2 to Anheggerstrasse. in the train station. a smaller beach popular with families. 3 to Karmelbuckel.m. and women. and from 2 to 6 p.m. is the most scenic area for biking. and a passport is required as proof of age.25). or take bus no. to 8 p. Appropriate attire is a cut above casual: Men should wear a jacket and tie. take bus no. Fahrrad-Station-Lindau (% 08382/21261).m. Maria Himmelfahrt (Church of the Ascension). you come to the waterside Stadtpark (City Park) with its modern Spielbank (casino). famed for its subtropical gardens.50€ ($3) for adults. Taking a turn at the tables At Lindau’s glitzy Spielbank (shpeel-bank.m. to 5 p. to 1 p.50€ ($2) for children. 2€ ($2. The third beach. To reach it.318 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany a barrel-vaulted ceiling and a fairly bare interior.50€ ($3) for adults and 1. Enjoying lakeside activities For as little as 10€ ($13) you can rent a bike (Fahrrad. Römerschanze (% 08283/6830). with a grassy lakeside area and three heated swimming pools. to 7 p.) If you’re driving through this part of southern Germany. to 7:30 p. Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau The island of Mainau. is located next to Lindau harbor in the Altstadt.m.75) for adults. you may want to stop at Mainau on your way to or from Freiburg in the Black Forest (see “Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books.. The location is about a halfhour walk east along Uferweg. west of the causeway. is full of baroque decoration and has a frescoed ceiling.m. and blackjack and roulette from 3 p. pronounced farahd) and go cycling along the shores of the Bodensee.m.m.m. Admission to the beach is 3€ ($3. makes for a pleasant daytrip from Lindau. this beach charges 2. Continuing east from Marktplatz on Schmiedgasse.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. Strandbad Lindenhofbad (% 08283/6637). Three lakeside beaches (a beach is a Strandbad.m. 4 to Alwind.m. Chelles Allee 1 (% 08382/27740). Admission is 2. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. the Catholic church on the right. 2€ ($2. Lindenhofpark.m. to 2 a. Admission is 2. 1 or no. then bus no.

where palms and orange trees grow and fragrant flowers bloom year-round. A one-way fare from Lindau to Mainau is 11€ ($14). on the lake’s north shore.m.m. 11€ ($14) for seniors older than 65. because cars are restricted on the island. to 11 p.–10 p. from 8:30 a. and Konstanz. Visiting the island of Mainau The semitropical island of Mainau. several places on the island are open daily for dining or a quick snack. From March 24 through October 24. open 11 a. two ferries per hour make the 4. and game dishes in the fall. Service is less frequent on Saturdays.90€ ($5) for children.m. hop on the ferry.m.) and the Castle Café (open 11 a. and catch a car-ferry to Mainau.) . and holidays. Palms. in an arm of the Bodensee known as the Überlingersee. The island’s gardens are open daily year-round. azaleas. not all of them stop at Mainau.m. Butterflies from throughout the world flit and flutter through the Butterfly House. provides daily passenger service by boat between Lindau. lies 6km (4 miles) north of Konstanz. a roundtrip Kombiticket. rhododendrons. would later develop. In 1853. Casual dining options include the Butterfly Bistro (open 10 a. the Rose Garden.m. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. which features seasonal specialties such as asparagus in the spring. If you’re driving.). he laid the foundations for the Arboretum.m.m.. you can park and leave your car in Meersburg. hours are 7 The island has a Mediterranean luxuriance that invites leisurely strolling. gardens that his great-grandchild. and the Orangery. You can also drive west from Lindau to Meersburg.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 319 Getting to Mainau Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. Contact Autofähre Konstanz-Meersburg (% 07531/803666) for information and schedules. tens of thousands of tulips in the spring. the current owner of this 110-acre botanical wonderland. The baroque castle that forms the centerpiece of the island once was a residence of the Knights of the Teutonic Order.–8 p. www. Schützingerweg 2.–6 p. Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden purchased the island as a summer residence. to 8 p. Generally.bsb-online. Sundays. Admission includes the gardens. Admission is 12€ ($15) for adults. 31€ ($25) for family (parents and children up to 15). From April through mid-October. which includes admission at Mainau. costs 31€ ($39). and roses in the summer fill the gardens..m. Mainau. to dusk. chanterelle mushrooms in late summer. orchids. citrus and fruit trees. and an exhibition on Lake Constance in the castle.m. so check before boarding. the Butterfly House. Count Lennart Bernadotte. A passionate plant lover. the largest city on the Bodensee. This is the best (and only) way to see Mainau.2km (21⁄2-mile) crossing (one per hour through the night) to Konstanz. 3. and easily walk through Mainau. The island’s culinary high point is the Schwedenschenke (% 07531/303-156. winter hours are 9 a.m. the Palm House.

The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Travelers to the Schwarzwald (schvahrtz-vald). Having a car opens up more of the countryside. the name given to the forest by Romans some 2. Visitors with limited time generally skip the area’s cure and sports aspects and focus instead on the scenic pleasures of the Schwarzwald. From cake to sausage: Black Forest treats Maybe you’ve heard of that famous thick. runs parallel to the Rhine. the mountainous. The forest’s proximity to France and Switzerland has influenced the cooking you find in many Black Forest restaurants. come to two cities in particular: Baden-Baden. The name “Black Forest” is a translation of the Latin Silva Nigra. long associated with legends. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. legend-filled forest is a favorite place to spend holidays which serves as a boundary with Switzerland to the south and France to the west.mainau. meat and fowl dishes with creamy sauces. however. and wild game such as venison and boar. Schwarzwald Schinken (Black Forest smoked ham). One of the most popular auto trips is from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt on the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse (Black Forest High Road.) For the Germans themselves. Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart).320 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For more information. and pretty spots where stressedout city dwellers take die Kur (the cure) at health resorts fill the pineand spruce-filled forest. call % 07531/3030 or visit www. a spa resort with thermal waters and an elegant casino. and cuckoo clocks. Villages with half-timbered buildings.000 years ago. Give yourself at least two hours to explore and enjoy the island. Most restaurants make their own Hauswurst (sausage) and guard the recipe. about 145km (90 miles) long and 40km (25 miles) wide. The famous cake is one of the specialties of a region that’s something of a culinary crossroads. by train. fairy tales. look for Zwetchgentorte (plum pastry). . Why did they call it that? Because from a distance the dark green pine and fir trees look black. the two towns I recommend as overnights. You can easily reach Baden-Baden and Freiburg. amid nature. or Black Forest. and the medieval university town of Freiburg. which runs almost the entire length of the forest. hiking trails. which dominates the southwestern corner of Germany. The Black Forest. chocolatey cake flavored with cherry preserves and called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cherry Cake). You can explore the Black Forest in many ways. If you want to sample other regional specialties. B500). The Bodensee (Lake Constance) adjoins the forest to the east.

Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 321 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Durmersheim 0 10 mi Haguenau M er Brumath Weyersheim 36 A4 Canal de la Marne au Rhin Willgottheim Marlenheim Rheinau 500 Rh ine Pfaffenhoffen N 0 10 km Bouxwiller Mountain Malsch To Pforzheim Kuppenheim Gaggenau BadenBaden 462 294 Strasbourg Molsheim A840 A35 3 od To Calw A5 Bühl Achern Raumündzach Oberkirch 28 Barr Neuried 36 Offenburg FRANCE in 83 Freudenstadt Rhine Rh Gengenbach Ettenheim 3 500 462 du Selestat Rh ône I ll au Alpirsbach Zell am Harmersbach Wolfach Waldmössingen nal 468 Ca Elsenheim Muntzenheim Herbolzheim Kenzingen 294 33 Hornberg 462 Dunningen Zimmern Triberg A5 Waldkirch Kandel Triberger Wasserfälle Furtwangen A81 Freiburg im Breisgau Hirtzfelden Bad Krozingen Staufen Badenweiler 3 St. Peter Schwenningen St. Märgen 500 A864 31 Donaueschingen Titisee Hüfingen Löffingen Schauinsland Hinterzarten Feldberg Bernau Lenzkirch Blumberg Bonndorf 314 Belchen Todtnau 317 Schluchsee 500 Häusern Kandern A5 Zell im Wiesental Hornberg A98 Hamburg Berlin A35 WaldshutTiengen E GERMANY Frankfurt am Main C Lörrach Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Rh Pratteln SWITZERLAND FR Basel Döttingen in e AN .

open Mon–Sat 9 a. 201 or a taxi. you take bus no.322 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town Baden-Baden is one of the world’s most famous spa resorts.m. The thermal springs bubbling up from beneath the town have been healing aches and pains for more than 2.baden-baden. from Munich.) Getting to Baden-Baden You can easily reach Baden-Baden by train from anywhere in Germany. Even the Roman emperor Caracalla traveled to this part of the Black Forest to get some relief from his arthritis. In the 19th century. golf. who come to For those with a car. European nobility and clients such as Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm I rediscovered Baden-Baden’s waters. about four hours. you can easily access a second tourist office outside the center.. To get into the center of town. Sun 9 a. and Dostoevsky — also helped to make Baden-Baden the most elegant and sophisticated playground in Germany. The town has the most up-to-date spa facilities in Germany. you may find Baden-Baden a bit boring-boring. Both offices offer a free hotelbooking service.000 years. same phone. For train information. It has a complete schedule of events and information on town and regional attractions.m. and Napoleon III gave the town a glamorous new aristocratic cachet. The Bahnhof (railway station) is at Baden-Oos. The personalities of the day — artists like Berlioz. one of the summer sporting events in Europe. bahn.–6 p. Baden-Baden attracts many sports and outdoor enthusiasts. www. Brahms. about three hours. Finding information The tourist information office in the Trinkhalle. The drive south from Frankfurt takes about two hours. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter. The horseracing season at nearby Iffezheim. on Schwarzwaldstrasse 52 (the B500 road into town. Trip time from Munich is about four hours. If you’re driving into town. If you’re not into a health regimen or interested in gambling.m. about 5km (3 miles) north of town. play tennis. is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. always available in front of the station. Kaiser Allee 3 (% 07221/ 275-200. The composition of the slightly radioactive mineral water is almost the same today as when the Romans built the first bath complexes here in the third century. to 5 p. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. from Frankfurt.m. Baden-Baden still evokes that aura of 19th-century privilege. the A5 Autobahn between Basel and Frankfurt runs north–south through the entire region. Located 174km (108 miles) south of Frankfurt in the northern portion of the Black Forest.–1 p.m. connecting Baden-Baden to and people still flock here to soak and be healed of various ailments and to try their luck in the famous casino. takes place in August. and ride horses. and Sunday 2 to 5 p. . and the A8 Autobahn runs east–west.

Hir s Schloßs e trass r lmstr Wilhe .2 km Mi cha elstu n Lic ta en ht 0 0 GER M AN Y Frankfurt rA ll e e BadenBaden ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel am Markt 5 Der Kleine Prinz 15 Hotel Belle Epoque 16 DINING Der Kleine Prinz 15 Münchner Löwenbräu 4 Park-Restaurant 14 Peter’s Gute Backstube 7 Stahlbad 13 ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss 1 Caracalla-Therme 2 Friedrichsbad 3 Kunsthalle 11 Kurgarten 8 Kurhaus 10 Lichtentaler Allee 12 Spielbank 9 Trinkhalle 6 Ha Munich rd äc ke rs Mic haelstunnel e Lang Vin cen tist rass e ns is e Lu lee ral ise Ka e Sch iben sse stra V in c rasse tist en 9 8 R e t tigstras se Kr e u asse Merkurstr sse stra Eich 13 Hardstra s s e Lic 11 sse tra hte nta ler Str ass e Ludwig-Wilh e l m- S t ra sse le .D ür e ras sse se t -S . . str n i rS e Ste h ac Str 4 rnsb a sse tra Ge e Jesuitensse rass nst platz hie p o S 7 . ass tr. lstr LeopoldsInse platz ßs ch str 5 Marktplatz 2 Sc h l o Sol W er d er s tr a sse We rd ras erst se 10 Goetheplatz zs t r. strasse 12 ichstras se Sephanie- Lichtentaler Allee ss e Oosbach Kais er- W il h elm - e LudwigWilhelmPlatz 14 1515 St ra r Fried lerst rass Schil 16 Gausplatz Bertholdstrasse Bertholdplatz e Frem r rgst rsbe asse Hamburg Berlin nel i Information 0.2 mi 0. r A .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 323 1 Baden-Baden Sch ütze Sc ger sb os el hl nn Tu Festspielhaus La ng asse nstr We tz eS Leop oldst r tra asse t els Ka p rs t ra ine uz zin Gö tt ss e Ka pu eng . 6 m sstrass e i 3 e . t r. Hindenburgplatz e rs tr.

hotel-am-markt-baden. the rooms are comfortable (not all have private bathrooms). go on to stuffed rabbit with mushrooms and homemade noodles. and the location on Marktplatz is quiet and convenient. Bus no. Everything is homemade from the best and freshest local ingredients. Main courses: 17€–29€ ($21–$36). modest. Hotel am Markt $ Clean.50). Rates: 58€–62€ ($72–$77) double with toilet only. and menu offerings change daily. 76530 Baden-Baden. Münchner Löwenbräu $ –$$ GERMAN/BAVARIAN This restaurant serves simple. family-run hostelry you can still find all over Germany. Fax: 07221/ 27-04-44. Bus: 201.324 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting around Baden-Baden After you arrive in Baden-Baden. A one-way fare is 2€ ($2. you can walk everywhere. followed by a fish soup with dumplings. Rates include continental breakfast. 323. You can begin with assorted appetizers. % 07221/27-04-0. and finish with fresh strawberries and homemade ice cream. Try one of the tasting menus. which runs at ten-minute intervals. AE.m. V. V. % 07221/3464. and a meal in the intimate dining room served by the highly polished but friendly staff is a memorable experience. 201. www. purchase tickets from the driver or from ticket machines at bus stops. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. there’s a little cafe in front. MC. DC. MC. Many kinds of German sausage are on the menu with Bavarian specialties and a wide selection of cheeses. Regional . 74€–80€ ($92–$100) double with bathroom. and 7–10 p. Staying in Baden-Baden See also Chapter 22 for descriptions of the outstanding Der Kleine Prinz ($$$–$$$$) and Hotel Belle Epoque ($$$–$$$$).m. AE. affordable. connects the railway station to most of the sites in town. Tasting menus: 57€–75€ ($71–$94). See map p. Bus: 201. Marktplatz 18. move on to duck-liver parfait with salad. See map p. Dining in Baden-Baden Der Kleine Prinz $$$ FRENCH/REGIONAL The restaurant in the hotel Der Kleine Prinz (“The Little Prince”) is one of the finest in the entire region. this 27-room hotel epitomizes the kind of small. and well-prepared food in two settings: on a romantic terrace beneath linden trees or in an indoor dining room with curved glass walls. Lichtentaler Strasse 36. Although there is nothing grand or glamorous about and inexpensive. 323 In the hotel Der Kleine Prinz.

fresh fish. % 07221/392-817. Specialties include sautéed gooseliver. Exploring Baden-Baden When it comes to tourist destinations. In Brenner’s Park Hotel. and engravings. 323. DC. 323. % 07221/9000. Park-Restaurant $$$$ INTERNATIONAL/RHINELAND This fancy. a slice of pizza. Main courses: 6. Open: Mon–Fri 6:30 a. See map p. The restaurant also has a popular beer garden. Reservations required.50) is very good. Peter’s Gute Backstube $ PIZZA/LIGHT MEALS Restaurants in Baden-Baden tend to be pricey. V.m.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 325 devotees order pork knuckles fresh from the grill. For dessert. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter. Reservations required. Gernsbacher Strasse 9 (in the Altstadt). Stahlbad $$$ –$$$$ CONTINENTAL/ALSATIAN In the center of town.m. Duck in here for a breakfast of eggs and ham. The atmosphere and décor. Bus: 201. Specialties include pepper steak and seasonal game dishes. Sophienstrasse 10–12. Schillerstrasse 4.m. MC. For dessert. to midnight.75). Bus: 201. sandwiches: 3€ ($3. 323. roast saddle of venison or lamb. quickly served food. Pete’s can’t be beat for cheap. this restaurant with a garden terrace is a tranquil and charming place to dine.m. although the atmosphere is like a fast-food restaurant. AE. Main courses: 32€–42€ ($40–$52). high-priced restaurant in the glamorous Brenner’s Park Hotel is one of the renowned hotel dining rooms of Europe and received a Michelin star in 2006.25–$8. DC. or a lunchtime sandwich. along with seafood and regional Rhine Valley foods. Sat 6:30 a. AE. and 6–10 p.m. Main courses: Breakfast 5€–7€ ($6. 323. antique pewter plates. try the lemon-grass mousse. so it’s good to know about this inexpensive cafe on busy Leopoldsplatz. V. Augustaplatz 2. See map p. with major museums and important historic sights that you must see. V.–7 p.m. warm gooseliver with Calvados sauce.. Baden-Baden isn’t a demanding town. Open: Daily 10 a. See map p.75).. Bus: 201. Open: Daily 7–9:30 p.m. .m. including prints. AE. DC. Open: Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. % 07221/22311. MC. Sun 8 a.) The pace is relaxed. No credit cards. evoke an earlier era. and lobster salad. % 07221/24569. Bus: 201. Main courses: 15€–30€ ($19–$37).m. See map p. I also recommend stopping for a slice of afternoon Kuchen (cake). and grilled lobster and fish. mugs. The emphasis is on French dishes. try the apple fritters. copper vessels.m.–6 p.–7 p.50€–18€ ($8–$22). the coffee (all you can drink for 2€/$ 2.

citybahn. To enter the casino. blackjack. English commentary is available on a headset. Germany’s oldest casino. to noon). baccarat. roses. between 9:30 a. www. (until 3 is a sightseeing train that makes stops at all of Baden-Baden’s major attractions.m.m.326 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and the streets are geared toward pleasurable strolls and upscale shopping.25). Kaiserallee 1 (% 07221/21060). The various casino rooms were designed in the style of an elegant French château. (The Russian writer Dostoevsky wrote The Gambler based on his disastrous experience at the tables here.25) for adults and 2. Maximum bets are 10.m. At the north end of the promenade are the formally landscaped grounds of the Kurgarten and the neoclassical Kurhaus. as you may think. an elegant park promenade lined with rhododendrons. in the vaulted cellars of the Kurhaus in attractive new rooms. making stops at the Kurhaus. lavish restaurant with a terrace overlooking the gardens with their shop-lined colonnades. and bingo machines.m.” where the rich and prominent came to see and be seen. once remarked.75).) This casino is definitely not the kind of glitzy. you must possess a valid passport and be at least 21 years old.m. pronounced ohs). Fri–Sat).10) for children 5 to 15. Admission is 3€ ($3. and other games. and noon (Oct–Mar 10 a. women.” a place for more formal gatherings and events. and gas lights lit and extinguished by hand every day. The train runs daily from 9:30 a.50€ ($3. informal. The Kurhaus does not.m. the Caracalla Baths.m. You find slot machines. Lichtentaler Allee. you can take a guided tour of the historic gaming rooms daily.” You can see for yourself by visiting the famous BadenBaden Spielbank (casino).500). Tickets cost 5€ ($6. Minimum bets are 5€ ($6. used for receptions and galas. and the left wing houses a large. in operation for more than 200 years.. Marlene Dietrich. to 2 a. The tour costs 4€ ($5). . and other spots. If you don’t want to gamble. azaleas. The time-honored center of activity is Lichtentaler Allee. poker. the building was a “Promenade House. Originally. every 30 minutes. poker. blackjack. classy evening wear. The casino is open for gambling daily from 2 p. Guests can play French and American roulette. one of the town’s most important buildings. the right wing of the building is Baden-Baden’s casino (see the next paragraph). which also contain roulette. The site has remained the hub of Baden-Baden’s social scene ever since. slotmachine-haven you find in Las Vegas. and ornamental trees set along the bank of the narrow Oosbach River (called the Oos. I recommend that you visit one of the bath complexes (see “Bathing in Baden-Baden” later in this chapter) and then spend a couple of hours wandering through the Altstadt. contain spa facilities. to about 5 p. In the 1820s. the glamorous German film star.000€ ($12. a very recent addition. concert shell. the Kurhaus was turned into a “Conversation House. The City-Bahn (% 07221/991-998. Men must wear jackets and ties. “The most beautiful casino in the whole world is in Baden-Baden — and I have seen them all. Arrange in advance for tours in English.

(Wed until 8 p. “Here at Baden-Baden’s Friedrichsbad you lose track of time in 10 minutes and track of the world in 20. involves a shower. sits adjacent to the Kunsthalle and houses an impressive collection of modern paintings and sculptures (German expressionists. working up to the warm water. You get a nice view of the town and the Black Forest from this fortresslike structure. but the scene is au naturel in the saunas. Kaiserallee 3 (% 07221/275-200).m.m. late works by Picasso) bequeathed by Baden-Baden collector Frieder Burda.” Admission is 21€ ($26) for three hours without massage. The baths are open daily from 9 a. 29€ ($36) with soap-brush massage (31⁄2 hours). and whirlpools. completed in 1909. From the 11th to the 15th centuries. surrounded by an open walkway and decorated with frescoes depicting Black Forest legends. Note: Clothes may not be worn in the Friedrichsbad. followed by a 30-minute period of rest and relaxation. dates back to 1877 and follows an ancient Roman-Irish bath method. Friedrichsbad. Bathing in Baden-Baden Getting into hot water is what Baden-Baden is all about. to 10 p. is located on a hillside above town. Medicinal treatment includes mud baths. rich in sodium chloride. . The two buildings are open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. (last admission is two hours before closing). After experiencing the Friedrichsbad. you’d better understand what Mark Twain meant when he said. Museum Frieder Burda. The baths are open daily from 8 a. The Altes Schloss (Old Palace). The baths also have a sauna area.). a new building designed by Richard Meier and opened in 2005.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 327 In the Kurhaus gardens. a brush massage. and women and men share the pools. Admission is 5€ ($6. You must wear bathing suits in the pools. The complete bath program. thermal steam baths. which takes about three hours. Hochbaden was the seat of the margraves of Baden. where guests once sipped the salty. The slightly radioactive water. massages. you decide on your own bath regimen. and three freshwater baths ranging from warm to 60°F (15°C). slightly radioactive waters of Baden-Baden. a ruined castle originally called Hochbaden (High Baden). to 10 p. showcases visiting contemporary art exhibits. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-920). Lichtentaler Allee 8a (% 07221/300-763).m. The building.m. now is used as the main tourist office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Baden-Baden). Admission is 12€ ($15) for two hours. two saunas. The facility has a bar and a cafeteria. American abstract expressionists. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-940). a large hall built in the 1840s. At the CaracallaTherme (Caracalla Baths). to 6 p. bubbles up from artesian wells at a temperature of about 160°F (70°C). you also find the Trinkhalle (Pump Room). Admission is free. Bathers usually begin in cooler pools. The Staatliche Kunsthalle (State Art Gallery).25) for adults and 4€ ($5) for students.m.m.

000 residents (and an additional 30. The building is the second-largest opera and concert hall in Europe. Sophienstrasse 26 (% 07221/23955). Discovering the performing arts in Baden-Baden Baden-Baden’s Lichtentaler Strasse 21 (% 07221/24495). Leather goods by Gold Pfiel and other manufacturers are sold at Inka. Although surrounded by alpine scenery. cooling things down.. Sophienstrasse 16 (% 07221/29292). This is where you buy those elegant duds required to enter the casino. wallets.m. opened in 1998. fast-flowing streams called Bächle (little brooks) that run alongside the streets in stone-lined channels are ancient cooling systems. Sophienstrasse 18 (% 07221/390-448). Breisgau. and ballets throughout the year. Münchner Moden. The town is called Freiburg im (in) Breisgau to distinguish it from other German and Swiss Freiburgs. this picturesque city with its medieval Altstadt nestles in a plain below high mountain peaks.festspielhaus. cosmetics. www.000 students). the days can get very hot. are part of a flower-flanked pedestrian zone. carries beeswax. The hall presents classical music concerts. lined with some of the most expensive boutiques in Germany. candies. In the summer. operas. Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books With a population of about 200. now part of the German state of Baden-Württemberg but once part of the Roman Empire. The best men’s store. Langestrasse 38 (% 07221/31453). Lichtentalerstrasse 13 (% 07221/31090). Schwarzwald Bienen-Honig-Haus. focusing on designers Giorgio Armani and Renee Lazard.and honey-based products such as candles. Freiburg is the largest city in the Schwarzwald and considered to be its capital. Freiburg enjoys the benefits of warm air currents that come up from the Mediterranean through Burgundy. Only 111km (69 miles) southwest of Baden-Baden. where the inventory includes luggage. puppets. Freiburg bursts with . The Altstadt’s splashing fountains and shallow. Another shop. carries women’s designs in loden-colored wool during autumn and winter. and wine. is a bit more international.328 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Baden-Baden Sophienstrasse and Gernsbacher Strasse. but a cool mountain breeze called the Höllentaler flows down into the town like clockwork twice every night between 7 and 7:30 and 9 and 9:30 p. and offers Austrian and Bavarian silks. Cuckoo clocks. The women’s wear available at Escada Boutique. Beim Alten Bahnhof 2 (% 07221/301-3101.500-seat Festspielhaus (Festival Hall). and cottons during warmer months. and other locally produced items can be found at Boulevard. is a historical region stretching from the Rhine to the Black Forest. linens. Herrenkommode. is created by one of Germany’s most emulated designers. plus many varieties of bottled honey. schnapps. and handbags.

Hauptbahnhof stras Jak Bu obStrarckha sse rdt- Bis Ka strarlsse Rosa Friedrich ring se Leo pold STADTGARTEN ring Tu lhe lms tra sse l . Werderring Ma r i e n .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 329 Freiburg Kath strasarinense Heb stras else Meria nstr.s tr . on the last weekend in June. In Freiburg. Wine? Yes. 8 Augustiner- S ch los sb erg rin g strasse Platz der Alten Ber Synagoge toldstrasse str. surrounding the city are 1. Herrens trasse Bert . the smell of new wine fills the narrow streets even as snow is already falling on those nearby summits. more than you find near any other city in Germany. str. Sc hu 2 3 Münsterplatz 4 6 Moltke ste 5 rs t r. And winegrowing always requires celebrations. Hab stras sburgerse alle Fried richs Rheinstr e asse 0 0 0. fd er Zin ne n Scho ferstr . 7 11 platz 9 9 K SCHLOSSBERG Schwabentor In se 10 Augustinerweg Kartäuserstrasse Kaiser- Luisenst t r a ss Dreisams e Leo-Woh Strasse lebInformation Post office Railway Schillerstrasse ACCOMMODATIONS Rappen 3 Zum Roten Bären 9 DINING Oberkirchs Weinstuben 2 Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede 10 Zum Roten Bären 9 ATTRACTIONS Augustinermuseum 8 Erzbischöflisches Palais 5 Historisches Kaufhaus 6 Münster 4 Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Wentzingerhaus) 7 Neues Rathaus 1 Schlossberg 11 Hamburg Berlin GE R M AN Y Frankfurt Munich Freiburg springtime blooms while snow still covers the surrounding peaks.600 acres of vineyards. and in autumn.1 mi trass ma rk e Colombistr asse - Meria nstr a ss e Eise nba hnst Ga tte ckr ing se ph e Ro olds trass Ka ise r- Un s r s s s it ä t e Sedan - UNIVERSITÄT ivetra A L T S T A D T Gr ü Belfortstra sse Wi Ra m Martinstor pa v iktstr.1 km 0. a four-day public wine-tasting festival takes place in the Münsterplatz. at g a h a u ssse Rathausplatz Jo - Str as se rass e u c h- i R r mstr1 Sch iffs tr. Joseph- rasse ras se Less ings tras se Kr on en str se as Erbprinzenstr. Holzm ark t on Gerberau Mün gass zSalz nwal e s t ra de r s t r ss e . Mo zart st COLOMBIPARK Au i r. the square outside Freiburg’s magnificent Gothic cathedral. sse tra ns e t r Ga Schreibe rstrasse Dr eis am Wallstrasse neggrin eiffe g Gr torring Schwaben Fa ule rst t st r a ss ALLEEe GARTEN r Strasse Ad e l hauserstr .

to 2:30 p. is open June through September. to 7 p. The May Frühlingsmess (Spring Fair) and October Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair) both last ten days. Staying in Freiburg Rappen $ –$$ Altstadt The best rooms in this charming. from Hamburg.m. Their pre-Lenten carnival called Fasnet is one of the best in Germany.m.. located right outside. take B31 west. A oneway fare costs 2€ ($2. RVF (% 0761/207-280) operates the city’s bus and tram system. Plus-Punkt. For train information. Rotteckring 14 (% 0761/388-1880. the city plays host to the two-week-long Zeltmusik Festival (Tent Music Festival).330 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Festivals are a year-round part of life in Freiburg. If you’re driving from the Bodensee (Lake Constance). If you’re traveling in the Black Forest. The . to noon. to 6 p. to 8 p. Although the town was heavily damaged during World War II.m. and Saturday from 8 a.. and exploring the sights in the surrounding Schwarzwald is easy and fun.60€ ($5.. Saturday 10 a. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. about eight hours. Freiburg’s medieval charm has been preserved.m.m. providing access to Freiburg. October through May. Monday to Friday 10 a. The train trip from Frankfurt takes about two hours. Freiburg makes for an atmospheric overnight stay. Sunday 10 a. Monday through Friday 10 a.75).m. including a bombing in error by the German Luftwaffe.m.m. Rooms are generally on the small side and simply but comfortably furnished. has schedules and information.m. And in June. Wandering through its ancient streets is a pleasure at any time of year.m. low-key. youthful edge to the old city. Getting around Freiburg The Altstadt. where you find all the major attractions. to noon. 20-room inn have smack-dab views of Freiburg’s mighty cathedral.bahn. to 2 p. Weinkost is a long wine-tasting event in midAugust. The office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Salzstrasse 3 (% 0761/451-1500) in the Altstadt. www.) Getting to Freiburg Frequent trains connect Freiburg to Baden-Baden and other cities throughout Germany and Europe.m. The large student presence adds a lively. to 5:30 a day ticket costs 4. Finding information The tourist information office. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. with bonfires and parades.m. freiburg. Sunday 10 a. the A5 Autobahn runs north–south through the Black Forest. Saturday 10 a.50).m. with performances in giant outdoor and sells passes. is easily walkable.m. For those coming by car.

provides good regional cooking and comfortable rooms. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC. % 0761/31353. 329. or Cathedral Square. with a pretty painted facade and a list of innkeepers that goes back to the 14th century. V. 329.roterbaeren. Oberlinden 12. Rates: 99€–110€ ($124–$137) double. MC. oldfashioned food: tasty soups (bean. and seasonal dishes like pheasant. 4. meat dishes (veal schnitzel. and the surrounding neighborhood is wonderfully picturesque. V.hotelrappen. AE. Dining in Freiburg Oberkirchs Weinstuben $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This historic wine tavern on Freiburg’s busy Münsterplatz.hoteloberkirchs. those in the modern wing have little balconies overlooking leafy gardens and red-tiled rooftops. and 6:30–9:15 p. V. Tram: 1. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2 p. % 0761/387-870. Above the Weinstube. 79098 Freiburg. pea. You find plenty of activity right outside the hotel on Münsterplatz. 79098 Freiburg. AE. DC. See map p. Standing just outside the hotel is one of Freiburg’s medieval gateways. Rooms in the older section have more charm. This place serves hearty portions of good. including continental breakfast. AE.” is the oldest inn in Germany. All trams stop just behind the hotel.m. Doubles range from 126€ to 147€ ($157–$184). Münsterplatz 13. or vegetable).m. Münsterplatz 22. Fixed-price menus: 18€–21€ ($22–$26). See map p. or 5. www. this Weinstube is the most picturesque and romantic spot in Freiburg. “Dining in Freiburg”). www. Closed Jan. DC. Reservations recommended. pork filets in morel cream sauce). MC. 25 rooms all have private bathrooms or showers. Fax: 0761/ Main courses: 14€–25€ ($17–$31). % 0761/202-6868. Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede $ –$$ Altstadt REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL For outdoor summer dining. site of a big weekday outdoor This wonderfully atmospheric and unpretentious inn has only 25 rooms and one of the best restaurants in Freiburg for traditional Black Forest fare and regional wines from the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards (see the next section. See map p. 329. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt Zum Roten Bären.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 331 units with private bathrooms have showers. 79098 Freiburg. You can dine in the Weinstube (wine tavern) with its ceiling-high ceramic stove or at a table on the square. Rates include breakfast. Rates: 145€ ($181) double. poultry. which means “At the Red Bear. The tavern sits on a small square flanked by a .

Gargoyles peer down from the tower’s roof. % 0761/387-870. Tram: 1. The cathedral contains some superb stained-glass windows. See map p. and 6:30–11:30 p. fruity accompaniment. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Tram: 1.m. is a light. MC. Its West Tower. and Sunday 1 to 6 p.) All visitors eventually congregate in the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square). A simpler Vesperkarte (late-evening menu) is available from 10 p. one of Germany’s masterpieces of Gothic architecture. an area bounded by the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) on the west side of the inner city. and a wooded hill called the Schlossberg on the east. 329. a specialty of the region. 329. site of Freiburg’s rose-colored Münster (Cathedral. The chef’s daily recommendation may be cream of tomato soup. a salad with smoked lox.m. This place is a good one for trying Zwiebel (onion) dishes. MapInsel 1. or tagliatelle with shrimps. the earliest. 5. the Dreisam river on the south. % 0761/ 202-790. Tram: 4. The menu presents a full array of wonderfully prepared dishes using local ingredients.m. grown on the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards. supposedly a sign of the architect’s contempt for the city fathers. The good food arrives in extremely large portions. The Spargelpfannkuchen is asparagus served with a special pancake. available in May and June. A young Rivaner wine. are in the south chancel. Zwiebelschmelze is a spinach-and-vegetable-filled ravioli covered with sautéed onions.m. DC. one of them with its backside turned toward the archbishop’s house across the square. where you can sample seasonal dishes. This part of town is medieval Freiburg at its most appealing. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). Oberlinden 12 (just inside the Schwabentor). The building is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. or 6). Open: Mon–Sat noon to 3 p. such as Spargel (white asparagus). and Hollandaise sauce. Open: Daily noon to midnight. % 0761/35037. is one of the most beautiful in Germany. Gothic elements had been incorporated into the design.332 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rushing Bächle (little brook) and horse-chestnut trees. In the hotel Zum Roten Bären. Fixed-price menus: 35€ ($44). dating from the 13th century. a magnificent openwork spire atop an open octagonal belfry.m. Admission to the cathedral is free. but by the time the structure was completed in 1620. The cathedral was begun in 1200 in the Romanesque style. V. to midnight. V. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. Give yourself at least two hours to stroll and poke around. to 6 p. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL The “Red Bear” has one of the best kitchens in Freiburg and one of the most authentically atmospheric dining rooms. MC. . 43€ ($54). Exploring Freiburg Most of what you want to see is in the Altstadt. cooked ham. See map p. AE.m.

you can climb to the top of the Münster’s famous West Tower.. According to local folklore. to 5 p. to 5 p. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. % 0761/201-2515). Chestnut trees and a fountain add to the charm of Rathausplatz. the tower is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a. The third building to the left of the Historisches Kaufhaus is the baroque Wentzingerhaus.m. you will marry a person from Freiburg. if you step in a Bächle. Sunday from 1 to 5 p.50). is still used as the town’s official reception hall. another busy square just west of the cathedral. East of the university you find the Martinstor (St. On the west side of the square is Freiburg’s Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). when Freiburg was a walled city. the chief attraction in the Insel . dates from around 1200 and stands on the southeast edge of the Altstadt. built in 1761 for a local painter and sculptor and now home to the Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Town History Museum. comprised of two highly decorated 16th-century merchants’ houses connected by an arcade. a Gothic customs and financial administration center with protruding. closed Monday. November through March. admission is 2€ ($2.m. called Bächle.. one of two surviving gates from the Middle Ages. You can see the Bächle running alongside many Altstadt streets. with narrow cobblestone streets and restored houses once used by fishermen and tanneries. The Schwabentor (Swabian Gate).m. surround it. The neighborhood around the Schwabentor is called the Insel (Island) because rushing streams.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 333 The Bächle of Freiburg To help the town stay cool in the hot summer sun. The Insel is the most picturesque quarter in Freiburg. The mid-18th-century Erzbischöflisches Palais (Archbishop’s Palace) has a pale-yellow facade and an ornate wrought-iron balcony. They were first devised to keep the city clean and to help fight fires. For a wonderful view of Freiburg and the distant mountains. Freiburg has many lovely old fountains and a unique system of streams called Bächle (little brooks) that date back to the 12th century. The oxblood-colored Historisches Kaufhaus (Historical Department Store). The brooks channel water from the Dreisam River through the old university town. pointed-roof watchtowers and a 16thcentury gallery decorated with the statues of four Habsburg emperors.. near the Schlossberg. across from the cathedral. Paintings on the tower include one of St. the city’s patron saint. Augustinerplatz (% 0761/201-2531).m. George. A trio of historic buildings stands along the south side of Münsterplatz. Martin’s Gate). A 14th-century Augustinian monastery with a yellow baroque front houses the Augustinermuseum (Augustinian Friars Museum). the other city gate. From April through October.m.

From the Schwabentor. the Feldbergbahn (% 07655/8019). Driving through the Upper Black Forest From Freiburg. a nearby peak. Continue south to the hamlet of Todtnau. where you find a 1.m.m. The cable car operates June through September from 10 a. head back north along B500 to Titisee.m.50) for children. the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. to 4:30 p.m. backtrack to Utzenfeld and follow B317 east to Feldberg. Inside you find a collection of religious art spanning more than 1. the round-trip ride costs 6.50) for adults. Belchenstrasse 13 (% 07673/888-280). Give yourself about 90 minutes for the gondola ride and a stroll on the summit. to 5 p. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. 4€ ($5) for children. to 6 p. A new. and on a clear day. twisting road to Schauinsland.m.m. enclosed gondola. head south on Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse to Günterstal and follow the narrow..50€ ($5.) From Todtnau. From the grassy summit you can see the Feldberg and other nearby mountains.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. the cable car operates daily from 9:30 a.334 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Quarter.m.. you pass some of the forest’s highest peaks and two of its most beautiful lakes. . From the Belchen. Continue on B317 east and turn south on B500 to Schluchsee. From the parking lot. The round-trip takes about an hour. October through January from 11:30 a. takes you to the peak for one of the most spectacular views in the Schwarzwald. 4. The roundtrip costs 6€ ($7.450m (4.000 years. another popular Black Forest lake. (You need about an hour to get to the falls and back. From Titisee. you can see the highest peaks of the Alps to the south. you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Black Forest and be back in time for dinner. From Schluchsee. to 5 p. The roundtrip fare is 3€ ($3. takes visitors to the 1.6km-long (1-mile) footpath to an impressive series of waterfalls. a pathway climbs up the Schlossberg. The area also has easy hiking trails.m.50). You can also ascend the Schlossberg by cable car (% 0761/39855) from the Stadtgarten (City Gardens). you can return to Freiburg by heading west along B31. Admission is 2€ ($2. where another enclosed gondola. you can climb 91 steps to an observation tower for a panoramic view toward the Feldberg.) From Freiburg. a hill that provides good views of the cathedral.m. Along the way. green hillside pastures. a famous mile-high peak. The cable car operates daily from 9 a.75).750-ft.m. and the vast Rhine plain to the west. one of the loveliest of the Black Forest lakes. to 7 p. the Belchen Seilbahn. tile roofs in small villages.40€ ($8) for adults. pick up B317 west to Utzenfeld and follow the narrow road northwest to the Belchen.

MasterCard. to 6 p. Triberg. located on B33 between Triberg and Hornberg. including program schedules and ticket sales.) You may also want to visit the Haus der 1000 Uhren (House of 1. clocks have been produced in the Black Forest. The museum is open daily April through October from 9 a. An der Bundesstrasse 33. to 5 p. Diners Club.50€ ($3) for students.m. his great-great-grandson is the current owner. As early as 1840. Triberg-Gemmelsbach (% 07722/96300). Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1. when the first wooden clock was made in Waldau. Discovering nightlife in Freiburg The Konzerthaus (Concert House) plays host to a variety of events. and November through March from 10 a. is a good place to go.m. If you’re looking for a traditional timepiece to take home from the Black Forest. The shop is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. ranging from classical music to theater to pop concerts.m. and other traditional crafts. huge tents house the annual Zeltmusik festival (Tent Music Festival).. and Visa. Turkey. Furtwangen (% 07723/920-117). which emphasizes jazz but includes other musical styles. Information about all venues and events. 48km (30 miles) northeast of Freiburg on B33. In addition to the world’s largest collection of Black Forest clocks. and a program of organ recitals in the Münster. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. Freiburg’s cathedral (described earlier). In addition to cuckoo clocks. You can’t miss the shop: A giant cuckoo clock and water wheel are in front.m.m. In June.deutsche-uhrenstrasse. . Clock watchers with time on their hands may want to drive the Deutsche Uhrenstrasse (German Clock Road. you find all kinds of museums and sights related to clocks. Along the way. (Note: Triberg can be jammed with cuckoo-clock shoppers in the summer.m. www. England. One of the most interesting museums on the route is the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum).de). in Münsterplatz. Summer also brings a series of chamber-music concerts to the Historisches Kaufhaus. to 5 p. 2. Josef Weisser. shops also sell woodcarvings. a painter of clock faces.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 335 Time out: Buying a Black Forest cuckoo clock Since 1667. Black Forest clocks were being shipped to China. is available from the tourist information office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Freiburg).000 Clocks). the museum has timepieces from all around the world and from all epochs. music boxes. The shop ships to the United States and Canada and takes American Express. Russia. and America. launched the business in 1824. Triberg is one of the stops on this 320km (200-mile) scenic route through the Black Forest from VillingenSchwenningen to Bad Duerrheim.

Drifler’s Club (no phone. Schnewlinstrasse 3 (% 0761/ 32475.m. Hausbrauerei Feierling.m. is open daily from 11 a.m. open Thurs–Sat midnight to 4 a. in the basement.m. Gerberau 46 (% 0761/26678. Two clubs in one. Tram: 1 or 2). to midnight. house. 4. a brewpub with a popular beer garden across the street.000 university students.) plays house and techno for dancers. or 5). Tram: 1.. . Neither club charges a cover. open Wed–Sat 10 p. Crash. and funk. the city also has a thriving bar and club scene. serves drinks and plays background punk.336 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany With some 25.–3:30 a.

and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting romantic Heidelberg ᮣ Discovering the cultural delights of Stuttgart ᮣ Exploring historic Nuremberg devote this chapter to three special cities in central Germany. is renowned for its castle and its university. The looming ruins of the ancient castle. summer is also a time when droves of visitors from around the globe invade this beautiful city. or Nürnberg as it’s known in German. 88km (55 miles) south of Frankfurt.S. (See the “Heidelberg” map in this chapter. Many Americans know Heidelberg because of the nearby U.Chapter 18 Heidelberg. Stuttgart. is a historic and very attractive city in the state of Bavaria. and neoclassical eras. the old lanes and squares. But some of its legendary romantic allure stems from what was basically a 19thcentury public-relations campaign. located on the Neckar River in the state of BadenWürttemberg. the leafy hills and woodlands beside . Both are castle-crowned cities worth visiting for a day or two.) According to a song from the operetta The Student Prince. baroque. I Heidelberg: Romance on the River Heidelberg. Heidelberg is one of the few German cities that was not leveled by air raids in World War II (WWII). which is set in Heidelberg. can easily be visited as a side trip from Heidelberg. Today. on the Neckar River. so you still can see original buildings from the Middle Ages. Renaissance. Heidelberg. Army base. Stuttgart. summertime in Heidelberg is a time for music and romance. is one of Germany’s most romantic cities. This architecture is certainly a major part of Heidelberg’s appeal. the cultural center of this region. Nuremberg.

is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. including the castle. call Deutsche Bahn % 11861 or visit www.m. The office has maps and brochures.338 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the Neckar.75) for adults. Saturday at 10:30 a. and only on Saturday from November through March.m. www. From April through October. to 6 p. The Heidelberg Card.m. The train trip to Heidelberg’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is only one hour from Frankfurt and about three hours from Nuremberg. provides admission to Heidelberg Castle and discounts on attractions. and Sunday and holidays at 10:30 a.bahn. 5€ ($ guided bus tours of the city (in German and English). Finding information The tourist information office. to 7 p.25) for students and children. 10€ ($13) for students and children.rnf-schifffahrt. Willy-Brandt-Plaza 1 (% 06221/19433. The town came to symbolize old-world German Romanticism at its most picturesque. Purchase tickets at the tourist information office at the train station. Rhein-Neckar-Fahrgastschiffahrt (% 06221/20181.m. From Easter through October. Boats depart from the landing stage near the Stadthalle. www.m. between the TheodorHeuss-Brücke (bridge) and the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). November through March the tour takes place only on Saturday at 2:30 p. walking and boat tours.. They praised the town in their writings and immortalized it in their music and paintings. The round-trip tour lasts about three hours and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. and unlimited use of public outside the main train station.m. The cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. Fri–Sat in English) from April through October. Getting there Heidelberg is easily accessible by train from all major cities in Germany and Europe...cvb-heidelberg. The cost is 7€ ($8.50) for children.m. For train schedules and information. 6€ ($7. (closed Sun Nov–Mar). and 2:30 offers daily guided boat tours (commentary in German and English) on the Neckar River between Heidelberg and Neckarsteinach. daily (Mon–Thurs in German. Purchase your ticket from the tourist information office at the train station. . The great writer Goethe and many other poets.m. painters. and the youthful student population all had great appeal to the German Romantics. and Sunday from 10 a. and musicians “discovered” Heidelberg in the early 19th century. depart from Universitätsplatz on Thursday and Friday at 2:30 p.m.m. Taking a guided tour A two-hour guided walking tour of the city departs from the Lion’s Fountain on Universitätsplatz at 10:30 a. good for two days and available for 14€ ($17) from the tourist information office and at many hotels.

9 13 sg. rg Marstallstr. Ingrimst e Universitätsplatz San 5 Zw el nn tu rg e sb os hl Sc Castle 16 tr. Semmel Steingasse Dreikön herg. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei Restaurant 15 Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant 2 Mensurstube 7 Simplicissimus 6 Zum Goldenen Schaf 3 Zum Roten Ochsen 13 Zum Sepp’l 14 kar Nec Leyer gasse Mönc a Neck Fisc rstad en Lauerstr.1 mile N 100 meters . ndst DINING Die Kurfürstenstube 1 Hotel Zum Ritter St. 12 arls Karlsplatz K ATTRACTIONS Heiliggeistkirche 8 Kurpfälzisches Museum 2 Marktplatz 10 Rathaus 12 Heidelberg Castle 16 Studentenkarzer 4 Universitätsplatz 5 e nbe ies Fr tr. adg erb . str. s-s os Grab dga ler Pelz SCHLOSSGARTEN 15 sse rstr. se lgas ge r. emie -str. igstr. eg . gei 14 eilig upt Ha str. Stuttgart.ACCOMMODATIONS weg Philosophenrtchen gärtchen e Neu nhe antelg Grosse M S c h if f g a 1 r. Haspelg. kteufel Am Hac rst Necka r. erianstr ing ers tr. Untere St asse Jubiläumsplatz r ecka re N Unte Bauamtsgasse nstr. S To Bismarckplatz enga Plöck Heidelberg 339 1 1 To Train Station rich-Ebert-Anlage Fried eg nw ule Heidelberg Munich Das Hotel am Rathaus 9 Der Europäische HofHotel Europa 1 Hotel Hirschgasse 7 Hotel Zum Ritter St. frieds Land sse er Unt au er F Marz rP elz Sc hl udwig Karl-L tr. gasse Plöck Kling ento rstr. Land Schlangenweg cksä EICHENDORFFANLAGE gg we en ph oso l i Ph 7 7 Hölderlin. Heumarkt Ob Fischmarkt 8 10 Marktplatz 11 11 Kornmarkt Bur gw sse 3 4 2 2 Haupts Werrgas Bism ar Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main äuser Ziegelh str. Ob r ere Fa ule Ne ue tr. AL TS TAD T 6 M rg. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei 15 Alte Brücke ime r La r. 7 hg. 15 15 H ststr. Schlossber g ch Neue S l os s - st r . Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Theate Kettengasse Friedri chstr. loss Sch ue Ne Schlossberg Schloss nweg unne Wolfsbr str. g d lba Mitte ngass . Biene Karpfe Zie Krame ts Haup tr. 0 0 0. and Nuremberg Akad Semin arstr.

The Altstadt is a long wedge of slate-roofed buildings along the Neckar River. and the Kornmarkt. Hauptstrasse.340 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Orienting yourself Your first glimpse of “romantic old Heidelberg” as you emerge from the Hauptbahnhof on the west side of town may be disappointing. % 06221/22796) runs from Kornmarkt. in the Altstadt.m. A Bergbahn (funicular. to the east. busy pedestrian street with narrow medieval lanes on both sides. HSB (% 06221/5132000). It’s located right in the heart of the city on the Marktplatz. beneath Heidelberg’s Schloss (castle).m. The 17 rooms are small but very pleasant. However. or Market Square.50) for children and students. . Das Hotel am Rathaus $ –$$ Altstadt This hotel is one of Heidelberg’s nicest and most affordable. daily. a 24-hour pass. the Altstadt is about a half-hour’s walk from the train station. The Altstadt (Old Town).50). and 7:40 p. a zoo. between 9 a. an area of tall buildings and shopping plazas. the Marktplatz. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. The city. The main squares in the Altstadt are Universitätsplatz. valid for up to five persons traveling within a group. runs from Bismarckplatz into the compact Altstadt. The one potential drawback: The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. Staying in Heidelberg See also the listing for the outstanding Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa ($$$$) in Chapter 22. and a botanical garden. The Schloss crowns a hill to the south. costs 8€ ($10). Getting around Heidelberg After you arrive in the Altstadt you can walk everywhere. a wide. Heidelberg is crisscrossed with a network of streetcars and buses operated by the local transportation department. a popular walking trail.75) for adults. is where you want to focus your sightseeing activities. Fischmarkt. has a modern and a historical face. so I recommend that you take a streetcar or bus to Bismarckplatz or Universitätsplatz to begin your explorations. with simple modern furnishings and tiled bathrooms with showers. like many in Germany and throughout Europe. a focal point for famed Heidelberg University. and the modern one is what you encounter first. Many bus and streetcar lines intersect at Bismarckplatz in the town center. 2€ ($2. the round-trip fare is 3€ ($3. Across the Neckar River is the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way). Some larger rooms are suitable for families. dominated by the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit). Modern Heidelberg centers on Bismarckplatz (streetcar lines 1 and 2 run there from the train station). Buses 41 and 42 travel between the railway station and Universitätsplatz on the west side of the Altstadt. up to the castle. above the Altstadt.

Fax: 06221/ 135-230. Georg is a well-preserved rarity from the German Renaissance. The hotel dates from 1472 and has lodged such impressive figures as Mark Twain and Bismarck. Most of the rooms contain tiled bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. 69100 Heidelberg. % 06221/14730. DC. later in this chapter). See map p. 69117 Heidelberg. minimalist style. Although they have Romantic Altstadt views. Hirschgasse 3. The Altstadt is a ten-minute walk from the hotel. this historic hotel enjoys a tranquil and romantic Rates: 144€–206€ ($180–$257) double. Bus: 34 from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop. The medium-sized rooms have light-colored hardwood floors and are furnished with comfortable beds and large wooden cupboards. Built in 1592 as the home of a cloth merchant. 339. just a couple of minutes’ walk from the river. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). Rates: 99€–154€ ($124–$193) double. The hotel doesn’t have public lounges. Rates include buffet breakfast. Heiliggeiststrasse 1. % 06221/4540. and Nuremberg 341 See map p. DC. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 4-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Heiliggeiststrasse on the east side of Marktplatz). Many of the 40 rooms are modest in size. the Zum Ritter St. Fax: 06221/ 147-337. See map p. www. % 06221/1350. Rates: 160€–345€ ($200–$431) The dining room specializes in duck breast and venison.ritter-heidelberg. www. Fax: 06221/454-111. AE. Rates include breakfast buffet.hirschgasse. MC. gabled facade. the front rooms also can be noisy because of neighboring cafes and restaurants. is connected to a microbrewery.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Kulturbrauerei $$ Altstadt This small (21 rooms). AE. V. The Mensurstube restaurant is one of the most historically atmospheric spots in town (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. Hotel Zum Ritter and all come equipped with shower-tub-whirlpool combinations in the bathrooms. The hotel has a cool. DC. AE. 339. 69117 Heidelberg. Bathrooms are adequately roomy with tub-shower combinations (four . the main street in the Altstadt. V. Hauptstrasse 178. www. The 20 rooms are all sumptuously comfortable suites decorated with Laura Ashley fabrics. Hotel Hirschgasse $$$ –$$$$ North Side of the River Nestled on the hillside of a historic lane adjoining the famous Philosophenweg on the north side of the Neckar. Georg $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Located right on the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse. 339. MC. Stuttgart. hip hotel. but the beds are comfortable. the hotel is among Heidelberg’s sightseeing attractions thanks to its highly decorated. V.

carpaccio of scallops and Scottish wild salmon with mushrooms in raspberry MC. Fixed-price menus: 20€–40€ ($25–$50). DC. located in one of Heidelberg’s most famous Renaissance buildings. See map p. but the cuisine is mainly French. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). Unfortunately. when tables are set up in the microbrewery’s beer garden. Georg $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL At this restaurant. www. Fixed-price menus: 60€–80€ ($75–$100). % 06221/1350.m. The dessert menu is equally scrumptious. The house specialty is saddle of venison for two (in season). Locals flock here when this dish is on the menu. MC. AE. and filet of turbot with celery on saffron foam with coriander tortellini. See map p. The menu is in English. See map p. Leyergasse 6. Dining in Heidelberg Die Kurfürstenstube $$$$ Altstadt FRENCH The best dining spot in Heidelberg is the wood-paneled Die Kurfürstenstube in the deluxe Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. The restaurant uses only the highest-quality seasonal ingredients. you can dine in the large Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) or the smaller Councilors’ Chamber.m. AE. and courtyard-facing rooms can be noisy in the summer. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). Hotel Zum Ritter St. Hauptstrasse 178. and 6–10 p. If you don’t stay here. A good beginning may be the snail soup with herbs or tomato soup with whipped cream. V. the hotel doesn’t have airconditioning. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. Main courses: 10€–15€ ($13–$19). Fax: 06221/900-099. Rates: 116€–149€ ($134–$186) double. V. Reservations required.m. % 06221/5150. Reservations recommended. 339. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 3-minute walk south to Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage).342 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rooms have showers only). DC. with fixed-price and à la carte meals.m. Look for culinary delights such as cream of watercress soup with poached quail egg and summer truffles in tempura. V. Other menu offerings include staples such as pork loin with sauerkraut or roast salmon in a basil-cream sauce. % 06221/90000. In Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. you may want to dine at the on-site restaurant (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. 339. try the Dortmunder Actien-Brauerei. If you like beer. 339. . AE. MC. 69117 Heidelberg.heidelberger-kulturbrauerei. Main courses: 25€–37€ ($31–$46). and the wine list is the most impressive in town. and 6:30–11:30 p. veal with stuffed pumpkins. next). A children’s menu includes dishes such as Wiener Würstchen (small Vienna-style sausages).

MC. MC. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Haupstrasse). The limited menu wisely sticks to traditional dishes made with fresh ingredients. Hauptstrasse 97. and 6–10 p. this large. % 06221/24050. followed by homemade noodles. Potato soup is a good starter. Stuttgart.m.–11 p. V. earlier in this chapter). in summer. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. dishes from the grill (bratwursts. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). Come here when you’re in the mood for hearty portions of traditional German food washed down by one of the homemade Scheffel’s beers. or pork medallions in a pepper-cream sauce with homemade Spätzle (a potato-based pasta). V. 339. V. and Nuremberg Kulturbrauerei Restaurant $ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL 343 Part of a microbrewery and hotel complex (see the “Staying in Heidelberg” section. 339. The restaurant also has a pleasant dining room. The menu often includes Rinderfilet (filet of beef) served with bone marrow and a red-wine sauce. try the mocha and Grand Marnier parfait with fruit sauce. in the beer garden. to midnight. Leyergasse 6. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25).m. You can eat on the balcony or. 339. In the Hotel Hirschgasse. pork filet with mushrooms. . Mensurstube $$ –$$$ North Bank GERMAN/REGIONAL No other place in Heidelberg captures bygone days quite like this rustic and cozy spot in the ancient Hotel Hirschgasse. See map p. Bus: 34 (from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop). % 06221/90000. olives. spareribs). Main courses: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). pork stomach. Fresh fish dishes may include zander with lemon cream. Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL On a warm summer’s day or evening. AE. See map p. roast fish). You can order salads. Almost everything is best accompanied by Pils beer on tap. seasonal specialties (herring.m. swordfish with a pepper crust.m.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Reservations recommended. Open: Daily 11 a. Reservations recommended for dinner. You can also get meat dishes: a good rib-eye steak. or tuna fish with tomatoes. For dessert. Hirschgasse 3. Open: Daily 10 a.m. popular restaurant formerly was a dance hall. lamb with rosemary. or lamb shank. or vegetarian meals. oxtail. See map p. nothing is more enjoyable or romantic than dining in the museum’s garden courtyard with its splashing fountain. % 06221/4540. MC. DC. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). and herbs. where swords hang from the ceiling and you sit at 200-year-old tables.

or 41. 339. and one of the most famous historic monuments in Europe. Closed 2 weeks in Mar and 2 weeks in Aug. The menu changes often but may include lamb with a red-wine and onion purée. Even in its deteriorated state. Open: Wed–Mon 6 p. DC. See map p.m. Sat–Sun 11 a. AE. The easiest and most gradual path begins at the Klingentor. Set amid woodlands and terraced gardens. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). Ingrimstrasse 16. See map p. 33.. the main street in the Altstadt. and wandering through the old lanes and squares of the Altstadt is as essential a part of any tour as visiting the tourist attractions. 12. Bus: 11. and for many visitors there is only one: the famous Schloss (castle) that looks down on the Altstadt. Walking is the most rewarding approach because of the constantly changing views of the town and surrounding countryside. % 06221/183-336.–1 a. and the wine list is good. or by taking a two-minute cable-car ride from Kornmarkt (see “Getting around Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). 339. V. Fixed-price menu: 34€–85€ ($42–$106).344 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Simplicissimus $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH This elegant gourmet restaurant in the Altstadt is known for its cuisine moderne. fresh mushrooms in cream sauce with homemade noodles. this historic pubrestaurant offers a menu emphasizing regional dishes from Swabia and the Pfalz. Reservations required. . Visiting the top attraction Heidelberg Castle Most visitors reach the huge red-sandstone Schloss on foot. You may want to try the Kringelbratwurst (roast sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes) or Swabian sauerbraten (marinated beef with red cabbage and noodles). MC. % 06221/20879. Hauptstrasse 115. steeper path up Burgweg from Kornmarkt. but try to save room for warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. the enormous ruins of the castle are undeniably picturesque. duck breast with asparagus. Portions are hearty and very filling.m. Plan to spend about two hours here. V. Zum Goldenen Schaf $$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL Located on Hauptstrasse. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Hauptstrasse). Main courses: 19€–45€ ($24–$56).m. or crayfish with fresh melon and herbflavored cream sauce. Exploring Heidelberg Heidelberg is a wonderfully pleasant town to explore.m. 35. Service is friendly. it is one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance castles in Germany. Open: Mon–Fri noon to 1 a. The town has few must-see sights. you also find a shorter. to midnight.

constructed in 1549.m. the largest in the world. you first come upon the Pulverturm (Gun Tower) and a terrace with views of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. from 1549 to 1620. is the shell of the Spiegelbau (Hall of Mirrors). Admission: Castle grounds.50€ ($4.75) adults. The Elizabethentor (Elizabeth’s Gate). Stuttgart.50€ ($2) children. Housed within Ottheinrich’s palace is the Apothekenmuseum (Pharmacy Museum. Its restored rooms can be seen on guided tours. fortifications and living quarters were constructed. entrance courtyard. See map p. 3€ ($3. Entering at the main gate. Touring the Altstadt Marktplatz (Market Square) is the main square in the Altstadt.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Audio tours: 3.m. the castle was struck by lightning. erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his teenage wife (Elizabeth Stuart. 339. but the castle as it stands today was built in two main phases. vegetables. free.000 gallons) of wine. .. After it was rebuilt. % 06221/25880).50) children. saw the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles as various prince electors of the Palatinate added to the building. connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrichsbau (palace of Ottheinrich). Pharmacy Museum. daughter of the English king James I) leads to the bridge crossing the former moat. and Great Cask. The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. your castle entrance ticket includes admission. re-creating a baroqueand rococo-era chemist’s shop with utensils and laboratory equipment from the 17th and 18th centuries. stalls of fresh flowers. you find the remains of a grotto and a sandstone sculpture of Father Rhine. in the 16th-century cellars of the castle. The second phase. Open: Daily 8 a.50). The palace’s terrace offers a magnificent view of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. On market days (Wed and Sat). to 5 p. and Nuremberg 345 The history of Heidelberg Castle An elevated fortress rose above Heidelberg as early as 1225. In the southeast corner. % 06221/538-431.–5:30 p. was built in 1751 and once held more than 208. The castle was the residence of the prince electors for centuries until French troops sacked and destroyed it in the late 17th century. between about 1400 and 1544. erected from 1601 to 1607 and less damaged than other parts of the castle. sits the Grosse Fass (Great Cask).m. The Hortus Palatinus (Castle Gardens) originally were created in the 17th century. Tours: Frequent 1-hour guided tours of the castle in English.000 liters (55. 1. At the west end of the terrace. fish. During the first phase. 2€ ($2. This enormous wine barrel. the ruins of the castle became a symbol for the German Romantics and a mecca for tourists from around the world. cheese. Schlossberg. In the 19th century. 4€ ($5) adults. To the east. Along the north side of the courtyard stretches the Friedrichsbau (palace of Friedrich IV).

In 1706.m.m.346 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany meat. built around 1400.m. no phone.m.m. and at the south end of the square is the Neue Universität (New University). The museum restaurant (see “Dining in Heidelberg.50€ ($3. including portraits and silhouettes. The one masterpiece on display is Tilman Riemenschneider’s 1509 wooden altarpiece showing Christ and the Apostles. on the east side of the square. Hauptstrasse 97 (% 06221/583-402). a wall was erected to divide the church between Roman Catholics and Protestants.–5 p.50) for students and children 14 and younger. Georg (see “Staying in Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). . to 6 p. stands on the south side of Marktplatz. A few steps past the Old University. Heidelberg University. Heidelberg’s most noteworthy museum contains a large collection of regional painting and sculpture from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. completed in 1932. and baked goods fill the square. You can also see an archaeological collection with a cast of the jawbone of the 600. 2€ ($2. discovered in the vicinity nearly 100 years ago. The wall has since been removed and the church restored to its original plan. The hotel is named for the statue of the Ritter (knight) at the top. Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a. Give yourself about 45 minutes to browse through the various exhibits. open daily 8 a. The highly decorated Renaissance mansion..80€ ($2. and a section on the history of the Palatinate. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. The late-Gothic Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost. dominates the west end of Marktplatz.25) for students and children 17 and younger. now the Hotel Zum Ritter St. founded in 1386. For nearly 300 years.10) for adults.m. to 4 p. October through March. is an early-18th-century building reconstructed in 1908 following a fire. Augustinerstrasse 2 (% 06221/543-554). Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. where from 1778 to 1914 generations of students were incarcerated in cramped cells for minor offenses.000-year-old Heidelberg Man (Homo heidelbergensis).). the church was the burial place of the Palatinate electors. Graffiti and drawings. A two-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse from Universitätsplatz brings you to the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate).” earlier in this chapter) is a good choice for lunch or dinner. (Wed until 8 p. 1.75) for adults. On the northeastern side is the Alte Universität (Old University). is the oldest in Germany.m. a building from the 18th century. Admission is 2. A Huguenot cloth merchant who emigrated from France to Heidelberg erected the building in 1592. to 6 p.). The prison is open April through September. cover the walls and even the ceilings. The Rathaus (Town Hall). you find the Studentenkarzer (Students’ Prison).m. A five-minute walk west from the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse and south 1 block on Grabengasse brings you to Universitätsplatz (University Square). Housed in a baroque palace.m.

and wooden blocks and figures. sells Hummel figurines. Some noteworthy shops include ߜ Altstadt-Galerie Stefan. The tavern is open April through October on Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a. Hauptstrasse 215 (% 06221/619-983).m. sells charming original engravings for as little as 10€ ($13). For five weeks beginning in late July. Plöck 71 (% 06221/893-6677). and theater to venues around the area. Hauptstrasse 217 (% 06221/20977). Revelers sit at long oak tables arranged in horseshoe fashion around a pianist. ߜ Kinderwaren Troll. As the evening progresses.50€ ($3) and up. ߜ Michael Kienscherff. nativity scenes. and Nuremberg 347 Shopping in Heidelberg The main shopping street is the traffic-free Hauptstrasse. offers a wide assortment of handicrafts from across Germany: music boxes. A lively outdoor market is open on Wednesday and Saturday at the Marktplatz. and glass and crystal ornaments. to midnight. UntereStrasse 18 (% 06221/28737). opera. November through March hours are 5 p. to 2 p. and beer steins. ߜ Gätschenberger. late nights get rolling in clubs around Marktplatz. and 5 p. ߜ Black Forest Shop. is a children’s clothing and toy store with handcrafted puppets.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. opened in 1703. Hauptstrasse 177 (% 06221/24255. Contact % 06274/58352 for tickets or visit www. including Heidelberg Castle. A mug of beer costs about 2. and dance productions. . Tram: 1 or 5). the songs become louder and louder. nutcrackers. is known for its array of fine linens and embroideries for bed. Friedrichstrasse 5 (% 06221/583-502. dolls. classical music. cuckoo clocks. Historic taverns Heidelberg’s most famous and revered student tavern.m. Meals go for 10€ to 18€ ($13–$22). the Schlossfestspiele festival brings opera. Stuttgart.m. Hauptstrasse 42 (% 06221/14480). Living it up after dark in Heidelberg The large student population keeps Heidelberg humming after dark. Early evenings often start in the bars along Hauptstrasse.schlossfestspielheidelberg. Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn). to midnight. The performing arts The main performance stage is Theater der Stadt. where nightly entertainment includes plays. Bus: 41 or 42). near Karlsplatz. and jazz. bathroom.

All of them take place right in the center of town on Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. the beer festival features food. and tents for some 20.m.95€ ($3. yet it remains surprisingly verdant. one of the oldest and largest in Europe. Swabia has been a leader of German industry for decades. but the region also is renowned for its scenic countryside.348 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Swabia: Stuttgart’s homeland Swabia (Schwaben in German) is the name for a medieval duchy now contained within the federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southwestern Germany. The 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. The name comes from Suevi. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. As a cultural center. wine lovers converge to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. Stuttgart makes for a great daytrip from Heidelberg. rides. A pianist performs nightly. Starting in late For dates and more information. the Schwäbische Wald (Swabian Forest) stretches to the Schwäbische Alb. . Stuttgart has no equal in southwestern Germany. to midnight. Dating back to 1818. a wedge of limestone upland south of Stuttgart. nestled in gently rolling hills with woods and vineyards reaching right down into the city. Stuttgart plays host to a lively Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt). also part of Swabia.) A visit to Stuttgart can be even more enjoyable when you time your trip to coincide with one of the city’s major festivals. Meals cost 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). 115km (71 miles) southeast of Heidelberg.000 beer drinkers. Next door is Zum Sepp’l.m. It’s open Monday through Friday from 5:30 p. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter.70). At the Stuttgart Wine Festival in late August. Forests sweep south to the Bodensee. A Side Trip to Stuttgart Located in the Neckar Valley.m. the original inhabitants. with about 230 decorated stalls selling gifts. to midnight.stuttgart-tourist. With Stuttgart as its capital. Hauptstrasse 213 (% 06221/23085). visit the city’s Web site at www. For more than a century Stuttgart has been a center of German industry. A mug of beer goes for 2. and west to the Danube River. filled with photographs and memorabilia. Stuttgart is the capital of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. who were conquered by the Franks in the fifth century A. To the north. and cinnamon waffles. The smaller Neckar River flows past Heidelberg and Stuttgart through a vineyard-covered valley. mulled wine. begins in late September with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes.D. but most of the people who live here still call the area Swabia. and 5:30 p. Saturday and Sunday from noon to 2:30 p. Visitors come from across the region to enjoy the city’s museums and performing arts. The building dates from 1634.

and Nuremberg 349 Stuttgart Di He Se am es an tra te ss ers e sse tra rass Krie i Sch lag ille tenstra ten Hegelplatz rstr sch STADTGARTEN ngs tra sse ass e Holzgar Kö e S rad Le u ch Bü ch se eo d St or-H ra e s lw u er. Heinemann Platz Kleiner Schlossplatz K ien ans tra ass sse Theatersee -Str 3 5 AKADEMIEGARTEN ena Schlossplatz Eug stra ensse stra uer Ulr ich sse sse Urb 8 9 hee Ca st ra ss e r te B Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Stuttgart Munich ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg 7 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart 6 Mercedes-Benz Museum 9 Neues Schloss 3 Staatsgalerie 2 Weissenhofsiedlung 1 Wilhelma 8 DINING Alte Kanzlei 5 Café Königsbau 4 Church Information Post Office i Al To Fernsehturm ex an de rst ra sse Hohenheimer Strasse rh Ebe ar ass e Br str enn as erse sen str s G ai bu rg str e lum ns tra sse ss Charlottenplatz a e tras lzs nig Ki lli che Bo str Th o str uret ass e Lau ass SCHLOSSGARTEN 2 e Staatstheater se Ne stra ckarsse r tle Sat Heg elst sse Ca gs gs ber nn sta a str tras se tte sse rstr 1 Hauptbahnhof ass eg e e rd ns e w tra r Pano am as e ss t ra 0 1/8 mile 125 meters ss Jäg ers ss tra e 0 N SCHLOSSGARTEN e st ra en ss e Moserstrasse We ima rstr ass So ph ien str as se .se ssStr Tüb Kr as o i n s np Stra ger e rin sse zst Kö ras nig se str ass Hir e sch str a sse St ei ns tra Ha ss up e tS ta ds t tr a Le ss o St e str nha ra as rd ss se e -E lsa s-S Do Th M Ho Es lzs St sling tr. ra e sse r Rotebühlplatz e nste gu e Au trass s ar kt Ro Olg Marktplatz Urb ast r. ss e ras se an- tra rot Karlsplatz nst stra Fr itz Schillerplatz 7 Kon ns es tra 4 sse tra sse 6 -Ad Berliner Liederhalle Platz trasse asse tr sss Sch lo ne rs G. Stuttgart.Chapter 18: Heidelberg.

m. you can reach all the major attractions in the Altstadt on foot. egg. (Nov–Apr 1–6 p. to 7 p.m. Saturdays. or you can sit out on the terrace and have an ice cream. Saturday 9 a.10€ ($6.m.75).stuttgart-tourist.50) for two For train schedules and information. Ninety-minute city walking tours (in German only) are offered daily from April through October at 11 a.vvs.25) for one zone. to 6 p. Purchase tickets from the automated machines in U-Bahn stations or from the bus driver. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. Stuttgart Airport (% 0711/948-3388). Stuttgart has a comprehensive S-Bahn system that links up with the U-Bahn (subway).m. The restaurant is open daily from 11 a. from April through October.m.m. Exploring Stuttgart From the train station. the I-Punkt tourist information office. specializes in traditional Swabian dishes such as Maultaschen (pasta stuffed with ham.). an old-fashioned Konditorei (pastry shop) located in the colonnade of the Königsbau next to the new art museum. to 11 p.m. a one-way ticket costs 1.bahn. or other fillings) and Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef topped with onions). The cost is 17€ ($21) per www. and accepts American Express. spinach. to 6 p. Fares are based on zones.80€ ($2. trip time from Heidelberg is only 40 Finding information and taking a tour Located opposite the main train station. and Sunday 11 a.. For information. and in March on Fridays.m. and Visa. www. and light meals are served at Café Königsbau. MasterCard.. The cafe is open Monday through Friday 9 a. call the city’s transportation authority VVS (% 0711/66060.350 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting to Stuttgart By train.) The Mercedes Museum and some other sights require the use of public transportation or a taxi. Main courses go for 9€ to 16€ ($11–$20). Königstrasse 1A (% 0711/222-80. A one-day ticket (Einzel Tageskarte) costs 5. Coffee. The tourist office offers a 21⁄2-hour guided sightseeing bus tour (in German and English) daily at 1 p.m. for 7€ ($8.. to 8 p. Alte Kanzlei. Diners Club. www. The restaurant has a cafe section where you can get breakfast and lighter meals. Dining in Stuttgart Occupying a section of the Altes Schloss (Old Castle). you can take the S2 or S3 S-Bahn directly to the main train station in central Stuttgart. Access by car is via the A8 Autobahn east and west or the A81 north and south. to 8 p. to 6 p. Königstrasse 28 (% 0711/290-787). and Sundays at 1:30 p.m.m.m.m.m. located 13km (8 miles) south of the city. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter.m. cake. and Sunday 11 a. From the airport’s Terminal 1. Saturday 9 a.m. . serves as a major gateway to southern Germany. Schillerplatz 5A (% 0711/29-44-57. is open Monday through Friday 9 a.

Arndt-/Spittastr. Sonnenberg Riedsee Waldau Wasenstr. Zuffenhausen Rathaus Korntaler Str. Kirchtalstr. Daimlerplatz Wilhelma Weiler Augsburger Platz Höhenstr. Wangener-/Landhausstr. Geroksruhe Steile Plochingen S1 U4 U9 Heslach Vogelrain Rathaus Österreichischer Platz Marienplatz Schreiberstr. Peregrinastr. Hauptbahnhof Berliner Platz Untertürkheim U4 Stadtmitte Charlottenplatz Olgaeck Schwab-/Bebelstr.Marbach (N) S4 Bietigheim Brückenstr. Silberwald Sillenbuch Schemppstr. Rosensteinbrücke Geradstetten Nürnberger Str. Bopser Weinsteige Degerloch Degerloch Albstr. Akadamie Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Schozacher Str. Backnang Mühle Hornbach S3 Maubach Mühlhausen Auwissen Nellmersbach Hofen Max-Eyth-See Winneden Wagrainäcker Schwalkheim Elbestraße Neustadt-Hohenacker Waiblingen Freibergstr. S2 Badstr. Millöckerstr. Bockelstr. Landesversicherungsanstalt Asperg Favoritepark Tapachstr. Bubenbad Payerstr. Wallgraben Rohrer Weg Möhringen Freibad Möhringen Bf U5 U6 U8 Ruit Zinsholz Parksiedlung Scharnhauser Park Kreuzbrunnen Techn. Mineralbäder Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion Metzstraße Karl-Olga Krankenhaus Bergfriedhof Raitelsberg Ostendplatz Schlachthof Tal-/Landhausstr. Berliner Platz Gerlingen Siedlung Schlotterbeckstr. Vaihinger Str. Ludwigsburg 15 Fürfelder Str. Mittnachstr. Bihlplatz Südheimer Platz Österfeld Waldeck Kaltental Engelbold str. Beethovenstr. Breitwiesen Falkerstr. Stuttgart. Zuffenhausen Pragsattel Zahn-Nopper-Str. Killesberg Löwen-Markt Renningen Milchhof Weil Messe Rastatter Str. Eltinger Str. Salzäcker Landhaus Ehningen Gärtringen Nufringen Leinfelden U5 Echterdingen Pleiningen U3 S1 Herrenberg Flughafen Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn 351 S3 Filderstadt S2 U1 2 U3 U4 U5 U6 U7 U8 U9 U13 U14 15 . Borsigstr. Gaisberg Brendle Im Degen Inselstr. Neckartor Schlossplatz Staatsgalerie Gerlingen Hölderlinplatz U6 2 Schloss-Johannesstr. Stammheim Kornwestheim Zuffenhausen Kelterplatz Stammheim Rathaus Hohensteinstr. U7 Mainsheim der Stadt Pragfriedhof Eckhartsaldenweg Wolfbusch Bergheimer Hof Türlenstraße S6 Salamanderweg Rosenberg-/Seidenstr. Friedrich-List-Heim Kursaal Winterbach Beskidenstr. S4 S5 S6 Botnang Universität Hedelfingen U9 U13 Ruhbank 15 U14 Eugensplatz Heidehofstr. Friedrichswahl Heutingsheimer Str. Schwabenlandhalle Schorndorf Uff-Kirchhof Benningen Freiberg U5 U14 Neckargröningen Remseck S5 Tamm Freiberg (N) Wlhelmsplatz Bad Cannstatt Stöckach Felbach Lutherkirche U1 Blick Eszet Suttnerstr. Pleininger Str. Wangen Marztplatz Kodak Obertürkheim Mettingen Esslingen Obresslingen Zell Altbach Lindpaintnerstr. Vogelsang Herderplatz Feuersee Mercedesstr. Rommelshausen Münster Rathaus Fellbach Stetten-Beinstein Münster Viadukt Sommerain Kraftwerk Münster Endersbach Beutelsbach 2 Obere Ziegelei Mühlsteg Grunbach Gnessener Str. Schwabstraße Dobelstr. Maybachstr. Stafflenbergstr. and Nuremberg Goldberg Böblingen Hulb Oberaichen Leinfelden Frank Nellingen Ostfildern U7 U8 Unteraichen Sigmaringer Str. Russische Kirche Giebel Keplerstr. Eckhardt Neuwirtshaus Korntal Fortuna Löwentor Weilimdorf Wilhelm-Geiger-Platz Ditzingen Feuerbach Krankenhaus Höfingen Sportpark Feuerbach Leonberg Löwentorbrücke Feuerbach Pfostenwäldle Rutesheim Landauer Str. Wimpfener Str. Salzwiessenstr. Siegelstr. Vaihingen Schillerplatz U1 U3 U6 Vaihingen SSB-Zentum Rohr Jurastr. Esslinger Str. Heumaden S-Bahn S1 S2 S3 U-Bahn S4 S5 S6 Vaihingen Viadukt Fauststr.

Nearly 75 historical vehicles are shown.” designed by the British architect James Stirling and completed in 1984.and 20th-century collection.m. You’ll see prehistoric stone sculptures. The Neue Staatsgalerie (State Art Gallery). Hans Memlings’s Bathsheba at her Bath. Paul in Prison. including the first motorcycle (built in 1885) and the first Mercedes (1902). to 6 p. Some famous examples of European art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries also are exhibited.352 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg (Old Castle and State Museum of Württemberg). such as Paul Klee and Lyonel Feininger.m. To reach it. The “New State Gallery. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. U-Bahn: Staatsgalerie).The museum. to 5 p. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). honors the invention of the motorcar by Carl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler. You can see the highlights in an hour or so.25) for students. Art lovers will . then follow signs to DaimlerChrysler Werk. a large collection of Swabian sculptures. 1€ ($1.m. you’ll enjoy every minute (free audio guides are available in English). Picasso. charges 8€ ($10) for adults.50) for students. Give yourself at least an hour here.and 20th-century works by artists from southern Germany. Highlights include Giovanni Bellini’s The Mourning of Christ. and Monet. a cafe open to the public. Stuttgart-Cannstatt (% 0711/172-2578). Mercedesstrasse 37. the Württemberg crown jewels (in the royal vault). including works by Modigliani. (Wed until 8 p. The new museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. which opened in spring 2005.m. Ernst Barlach.m.). and Rembrandt’s St. take S-Bahn line S1 to Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion.75) for adults. exhibits works spanning some 550 years. 4€ ($5. to 5 p. The top floor. and treasures found in the tomb of a Celtic prince (circa A. and Max Beckmann. is considered an icon of postmodern architecture. The museum moved to a new building in 2006. The new gallery houses the city’s collection of 19th. you find the 19th.m. Rebuilt after WWII. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). the city’s finest art museum. Schillerplatz 6 (% 0711/279-3400.m. A must for anyone who has an interest in cars — vintage or otherwise — the Mercedes-Benz Museum.25) for adults.D. the paintings by Otto Dix are particularly compelling (the museum has the most important Otto Dix collection in the world). 530). provides a fabulous panoramic view of Stuttgart and its surrounding hills. is one of Stuttgart’s oldest standing structures. the museum is a filigree glass cube surrounding a rough-hewn limestone inner core.. Kleiner Schlossplatz 1 (% 0711/216-2188.25) for students. Untertürkheim Tor 1 (about a 10minute walk). Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 30–32 (% 0711/470-400. in addition to representatives of the Bauhaus school and Blue Rider group. the castle now houses a state museum tracing the art and culture of Swabia and Württemberg from the Stone Age to the present. 2€ ($2. open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. Designed by Berlin architects Hascher and Jehle. with works of the German expressionists Ernst Kirchner. admission is 5€ ($6. first built as a moated castle in the 14th century and later redone in Renaissance style. It’s worth a trip to Stuttgart just to see the Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (Stuttgart Art Museum). Admission is 3€ ($3. In this section.

50€ ($5. 5. (Nov–Feb until 4 p.m. (Thurs until 9 p. Stuttgart.m. is home to the highly regarded Stuttgart Ballet and the Staatsoper (State Opera). Classical and other concerts are given in the Liederhalle. to 6 p. want to give themselves a couple of hours here. free for children 13 and younger.75) children younger than 17. Displays in the small Architektur-Galerie. Many of the existing houses represent the functional style that was being promoted by the Bauhaus school of art and design.Chapter 18: Heidelberg.m. Home to more than 9. take U-Bahn line 14 to the Wilhelma stop. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Schloss-Strasse (% 0711/2167110. and Nuremberg 353 Classics of modernist architecture Architecture buffs will want to pay a visit to Weissenhofsiedlung (Weissenhof Estate). available at newsstands. Listings of the various cultural events and tickets are available from the tourist office (see “Finding information and taking a tour. take a taxi or the U-Bahn line 7 to the Killesberg-Messe stop and walk northeast around the Messe into the residential neighborhood. The park was laid out in 1848 and contains a collection of historical buildings in the Moorish style. The animal houses and greenhouses are open year-round from 8:15 a. the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday 2 to 6 p. Walking through the estate you see houses created by architects such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (Am Weissenhof 14–29). To get there. Bad-Cannstatt (% 0711/54020). and Sunday noon to 5 p.). call Anselm Vogt-Moykopf at % 0172/740-1138 (www. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.weissenhofgalerie. Wilhelma. walking tours are available on Saturdays at 11 a.. opera.m. The magazine Lift. provide information about the project and the architects involved.40€ ($6.m. a housing estate built for a building exhibition in 1927. home to the Stuttgarter Philharmoniker and the Radio Symphony Orchestra.). For a private architectural tour by an English-speaking city guide/taxi driver. lists all the happenings around Stuttgart.000 animals and plants from around the world. admission is 11€ ($13) adults.” earlier in this section on Stuttgart).m. or concert . and Hans Scharoun (Hölzweg 1). Oberer Schlossgarten (% 0711/ 20-20-90. U-Bahn: Liederhalle/Berlinerplatz).stadtrund fahrt-stuttgart. Le Corbusier (Rathenaustrasse 1–3). Admission is 4.m. Stuttgart is so close (only 40 minutes by train) that you may want to consider spending an evening there at the ballet.m. Am Weissenhof 30 (% 0711/257-1434. Tickets for all concerts are on sale at the tourist information office. www. to 5 p. Staatstheater (State Theater). Stuttgart performing arts Even if you’re staying in Heidelberg. free on Wednesday. Neckartalstrasse. To reach the Weissenhof Estate.60) for is the largest zoo and botanical garden in Europe.m.

In 300 years. an Art Nouveau building dating from 1914 and full of stalls selling local and foreign delicacies. were restored or reconstructed in the Altstadt. Hitler made Nuremberg the Nazi Party’s permanent convention and rally site. and museums definitely is worth it. but few have been reborn with the kind of evocative grace and charm of Nuremberg. the city’s architecture and previous role in the Holy Roman Empire represented the quintessence of Germany. and its location at the crossroads of major trade routes. convened by the International Military Tribunal. and most infamous. many of Nuremberg’s most important buildings. Serious shoppers. But for a special shopping experience. a cultural flowering made Nuremberg the center of the German Renaissance. Nearly every German city has a restored Altstadt. shoes. Nuremberg made its second. Dorotheenstrasse 4 (U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). you find a selection of international designer outlets selling clothing. with the exceptions of Dresden and Berlin. or meeting with the princes of the empire. the Nazi war-crimes trials were held here. the historic center. a small town 35km (21 miles) south of Stuttgart and easily accessible by train. In the postwar years. under Hitler. The city’s role as capital of the empire.) This strikingly attractive and lively city has about half a million residents. each newly elected emperor of the Holy Roman Empire had to convene his first Reichstag. After he seized power in 1933. From 1356 onward.” as the city originally was known. sports equipment. is the home of Germany’s best and most numerous factory-outlet stores. made it one of the wealthiest and most important cities in medieval Germany.354 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Stuttgart You’ll find department stores and boutiques lining Königstrasse. head to the Markthalle (Market Hall). 148km (92 miles) northwest of Munich. suffered such wartime devastation. churches. the city grew from a fortress and military base in eastern Franconia (a medieval duchy of south-central Germany) to a virtually self-governing Free Imperial City (Freie Reichsstadt). historic buildings. right outside the main train station. . take note: Metzingen. But the city fell into decline until. tableware. “Nourenberc. After the war. Spending a day or more exploring its streets. During the 15th and 16th centuries. no other German city. mark on German history. To Hitler. Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth Nuremberg (or Nürnberg in German) is located in Bavaria. dates back to about 1050. As a result. On and around Kanalstrasse. (See the “Nuremberg” map in this chapter. including some of the finest Gothic and Renaissance churches in Germany. and more. in Nuremberg.

from Munich.-SebaldusBerlin Kirche 9 Frauenkirche 15 GERMANY Germanisches Nationalmuseum 18 Frankfurt Church Information i Hauptmarkt 14 Nuremberg Railway Kaiserburg 2 Munich Schöner Brunnen 11 s tr rien se as stra sse 20 B a h n h o f s t r a ss e 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters N . The city’s Hauptbahnhof is within walking distance of all the major attractions.-LorenzKirche 19 Dokumentationszentrum Hamburg Reichsparteitagsgelände 21 St.bahn. you find reminders of Nuremberg’s brightest period. Johannis Friedhof Li n Joh an ng a 1 Pr Kleinweidenhle mühle Deuts Neutor ttorg rabe n Pegn iese itz l er w 4 5 6 AlbrechtDürer-Platz Theresiens. Stuttgart. JOHANNIS 2 3 dSchil e gass Maxtor Lange G asse Hirschel gasse I n . t ers at rg. from Berlin. 9 10 7 Obstmarkt Burgs s se Ha b gr a en Tetze lga sse de trasse B nis urgschmiets trasse str ass e ST. Getting there You can easily reach Nuremberg by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe. L a uf e r g.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. For information and schedules. and Nuremberg 355 Nuremberg St. www. less than 5 hours. 1 hour 40 minutes. a ss to rg ra ras se hst eic Bl Gr il Sp itt ler A L T S T A D T 17 sse Brunnengasse Ma ri en to r 19 abe w ud Färbe Am Plärrer Ludwigstor t up ss Hastra sto e rgr tra igsJacobplatz L Spittlertor rstra Fürther Tor sse Fraue ngass e Ka b gas tharin gr a se enBlu Lor me enz nst er S ras tra se sse en rge be len be n Pegnitz Adlerstrasse Lauf r e rto Str 16 15 rgra be n chhe rrnstr asse e n - Lessingstrasse aben asse San dstr Hauptbahnhof Kö Frauentorgr nig ACCOMMODATIONS Burghotel Nürnberg 6 Dürer-Hotel 4 Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg 20 Romantik Hotel am Jusephsplatz 17 DINING Bratwurst-Häusle 12 Essigbrätlein 7 Goldenes Posthorn 10 Heilig-Geist-Spital 16 As you wander through the streets of this ancient capital of the Holy Roman Empire. Travel time from Frankfurt is about 2 hours. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. l e rass Praterstrasse Beckschlage Wes Neue G. 8 Karlstrasse i 11 12 13 Haupt-14 markt 21 Kö n ig LORENZ Kornmarkt 18 i Ma TAFELHOF ATTRACTIONS Schwurgerichtssaal 600 1 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus 3 Spielzeugmuseum 8 Altes Rathaus 13

one of the most successfully restored historic city centers in Germany. Orienting yourself Nearly all that is of interest to the visitor is found in Nuremberg’s Altstadt. a small sightseeing train operated by Nürnberger Altstadtrundfahrten (% 0911/421-919) runs through the Altstadt. www.m.m. head southeast along the A3 Autobahn. Roughly oval in shape. By car from Munich.356 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For those traveling by The small.m.airportnuernberg. Buy your tickets from the tourist information office or from the guide. From April through October and on weekends in November and March. from major German and European cities. children younger than 14 free. Flughafen Nürnberg (% 0911/93700. to 7 p.m. the old imperial castle. the entire Altstadt lies within a double wall of medieval fortifications.m.tourismus. you can walk . plus admission to the castle. Getting around Nuremberg Nuremberg’s Altstadt is almost entirely closed to traffic. passing all the major sights on a 40-minute tour with commentary in German (English translations available). The Hauptbahnhof lies on the southern perimeter of the Altstadt. crowning the northern periphery is the Kaiserburg. picturesque Pegnitz River bisects the Altstadt. 6km (4 miles) north of the city center.nuernberg. to 4 p.m.m. A guided 21⁄2-hour walking tour of the city center in English departs daily (May–Oct and Nov 30–Jan 6) at 1 p. The cost is 8€ ($10) adults. Although the Altstadt is larger than the historic centers in many other German cities. to 1 p. from the tourist information office at the Hauptmarkt. the city’s main market take the A9 Autobahn south.50) for children. take the A9 Autobahn north. 2€ ($2. parts of which still remain and have rampart walks and gateway towers. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. and 2 to 4 p. from Frankfurt. The tour includes a visit to the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). You find historic sights both north and south of the river. To the north lies the Hauptmarkt. An additional branch at Hauptmarkt 18 (% 0911/231-5555) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p. The train departs from the fountain in the Hauptmarkt in front of the tourist office several times a day from 10:30 a. Cost is 5€ ($6. www. In 30 minutes.25) for adults. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. opposite the train station at Königstrasse 93 (% 0911/233-6132.m. and Sunday (May–Sept only) from 10 a. connections are available to Nuremberg’s small airport. all its sights are easily accessible on foot. and from Berlin.

trams. For a taxi. Rates: 98€–175€ ($122–$187) double. V. 90403 Nürnberg. call % 0911/19410. Fax: 0911/ 23-88-91-00. The smallish tiled baths have showers (some have tub-shower combinations). Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg $$$$ Altstadt At one time. 46-room hotel provides good. Rates include continental breakfast. solid comfort in a great Altstadt location for a reasonable For more information. The easiest way to use the system is to buy a TagesTicket (day ticket) for 3. and close to all the major sightseeing attractions in the Altstadt. MC. They were always close to train stations (because that was how most people . You can enjoy your breakfast. Burghotel Nürnberg $ –$$$ Altstadt This reliable. Buy your tickets from the machines in the U-Bahn stations.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Rates: 135€–180€ ($169–$225) double. VGN (% 0911/270-750). DC. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk southwest along the city wall). in a pretty room off the lobby. Neutormauer 32. the only meal served.altstadthotels. See map p. Lammsgasse 3. www. and Nuremberg 357 from the Hauptbahnhof to the Kaiserburg through the heart of the city’s medieval core and past most of the historic monuments. later in this chapter). The hotel is below the castle walls in one of the most historic parts of the old city. Nuremberg’s transportation system consists of a U-Bahn (subway). MC.altstadthotels. Walking in the Altstadt is easier than using public The functional bathrooms are tiled and come with shower units. 90403 Nürnberg.50). Rates include buffet breakfast. www. 355. and buses. AE. Staying in Nuremberg See Chapter 22 for a listing of the charming Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz ($–$$$). Bedrooms are compact and nicely furnished. Fax: 0911/ 2146-65555. 355. DC. next to Albrecht Dürer’s house (see the “Exploring Nuremberg” section. The ambience throughout is modern and pleasant. you could find “grand” hotels like this all across Europe.60€ ($4. call the city’s transportation authority. Mediumsized rooms done in pastel colors open onto the street or a back garden. V. Fares are based on zones. See map p. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse to Lammsgasse). special weekend and summer rates. % 0911/214-6650. alongside the castle wall. AE. % 0911/23-88-90. Dürer-Hotel $$ –$$$ Altstadt The 107-room Dürer stands beside the birthplace of its namesake. tickets purchased on Saturday also are good all day Sunday. Stuttgart.

or 12 pieces). V. You may hear the sausage seller in an open booth on the street shouting. 355. the open grill in the rustic.S. or 0911/23220. marble-clad bathrooms. two. Look for an ever-changing menu based on seasonal availability.358 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany traveled). Rates: 250€–390€ ($312–$487) double. a beer brewed locally since 1468. 355. Your bratwursts may come with sauerkraut or rye bread with very hot mustard. Sebald. V. You can also get them to go (zum mitnehmen). you can dine on a leafy outdoor terrace. A good beer to go with your wursts is Lederer Pils. The locals consider fewer than six bratwursts a snack. originally was a meeting place for wine merchants. this grand hotel escaped destruction in World War II and consequently still retains much of its unique Art Nouveau atmosphere and detailing. each one you eat goes on your bill and costs 5. MC. and Canada. in summer. Come to sample original Nürnberger Rostbratwurst (6. . The guest rooms. DC. zwei. . Built before World War I. % 0911/227-695. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. In winter. have roomy.” (one. The city is famous for its finger-size Rostbratwurst made of pork and various spices and then broiled on a charcoal grill. served on pewter plates. Rathausplatz 1. The traditional specialty is roast loin of beef marinated in vinegar (what the name of the . Fax: 0911/23-22-444. Note: Those big. 10. Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is inventive and refreshing. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (then a 5minute walk north on Königsttrasse to Rathausplatz). .de. wood-paneled dining room warms you. with many nouvelle recipes. www.80€ ($ 7).m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is directly across the street from the train station). Dining in Nuremberg Nuremberg is in a region called Franconia. Children under 12 stay free in their parents’ room and baby-sitting can be arranged. 90402 Nürnberg. MC. . % 800/543-4300 in the U.50–$13).m. Seasonal game and fish dishes also are staples in restaurants serving Franconian fare. located opposite the Rathaus and close to the church of St. Bratwurst-Häusle $ FRANCONIAN The Bratwurst Häusle is the most famous bratwurst house in the city. The hungry consumer shouts back the number of bratwursts he wants. the largest in Nuremberg. AE. 8. Essigbrätlein $$$$ FRANCONIAN/CONTINENTAL The city’s most ancient restaurant. See map p. three . AE. delicious-looking pretzels (Brezeln) on your table are not free.–10:30 p. and they were always the largest and most glamorous places to stay. dating from 1550. Bahnhofstrasse 1–3. drei . Main courses: 6€–11€ ($7. known for its hearty and relatively uncomplicated cuisine.lemeridien. See map p.) and so on. “Eins. people typically have up to 14 for lunch.

m.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. the restaurant’s kitchen still features such old-fashioned but satisfying Franconian dishes as quail stuffed with gooseliver and nuts. and bratwursts. MC.. Goldenes Posthorn $$ –$$$ FRANCONIAN No other restaurant in Nuremberg can match the antique atmosphere of the Goldenes Posthorn. Main courses: 10€–14€ ($13–$17). and Nuremberg 359 restaurant means in German). Among its mementos is a drinking glass reputedly used by Albrecht Dürer. V. Tues–Sat 7–9:30 p. Glöckleingasse 2.m. Although the atmosphere has become more casual and touristy in recent years. Fixed-price meals: 38€–42€ ($47–$52) lunch. Kettensteg $ FRANCONIAN/INTERNATIONAL This restaurant. and 6–11:30 p. The restaurant has a fine wine list. Bus: 36 to Burgstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Glöckleingasse). . The wine list is abundant and excellent. You’ll want to dress up a bit if you’re going to dine here. MC. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 1:30 p. Fixed-price meals: 17€ ($21) lunch.m. In season. Stuttgart. Kettensteg is a nice place to relax and have a good time. DC.m. and beer garden beside the river in a romantic corner of the Altstadt is a real scene on warm evenings. DC. AE. % 0911/225-153. spans the Pegnitz River and is an atmospheric spot to dine. Carp is a specialty. and so are pork knuckle and sauerbraten. DC. venison in red wine with plums. 20€–42€ ($25–$52) dinner. 355. The menu is limited to just a few dishes. Main courses: 7€–20€ ($8. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. See map p. See map p. Spitalgasse 16. 355. with more than 100 vintages. Heilig-Geist-Spital $ FRANCONIAN Nuremberg’s largest historic wine house. 355. Main courses: 20€–28€ ($25–$35). Reservations required. See map p. Weinmarkt 3.75–$25). Open: Daily 11 a. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Winklerstrasse to Weinmarkt). AE. such as curried chicken on rice. fresh carp (in winter). % 0911/225-131. Closed Jan 1–15 and 2 weeks in Aug (dates vary). Wiener Schnitzel with french fries. bar.m. % 0911/221-761. Reservations recommended. 65€–79€ ($81–$99) dinner. and wurst with a mixture of onions and vinegar. to midnight. talking and drinking and eating under the trees. you can order leg of venison with noodles and berries. AE. Bus: 46 or 47 to Spitalgasse. which claims to be in the oldest house in Germany. hearty and filling. in business for 650 years. The main dishes are typical Franconian fare. V. V. MC. Vegetarians can choose from vegetable lasagna or various salads. when the tables fill up fast and everyone stays late. including vintages that date back to 1889.

–2:30 p.m.–5 p.–5 p. No credit cards. This is an exhaustive and exhausting place.). 355. Furnishings in many of the rooms are important historical pieces.m. The extensive painting and sculpture sections include works by Renaissance greats Albrecht Dürer and Veit Stoss. 2.25) adults.m. (Thurs until 8 p. lived in this house from 1509 to 1528.m.10) students and children ages 6 through 15.50€ ($3. Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39.10). The world’s first globe. as is a self-portrait by Rembrandt. it’s the only completely preserved Gothic house left in Nuremberg.360 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Maxplatz 35. winter daily 11 a. weapons. 355.). Exhibits inside the house are devoted to Dürer’s life and works.m.m. Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum) Germany’s largest and most important museum of German art and culture is the one must-see museum in Nuremberg. 500 to 750). folk objects.m. Admission: 5€ ($6. Most of the historic core is for pedestrians only. dollhouses. original etchings and woodcuts.25) adults. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Albrecht Dürer House) Albrecht Dürer. It’s a huge place and not laid out in an intuitive way. nearly all of which are found in the Altstadt. Exploring Nuremberg You need at least one full day to explore the main attractions of Nuremberg. See map p. The collection covers the entire spectrum of German craftsmanship and fine arts from their beginnings to the present day. created by Martin Behaim. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Kartäusergasse 1. is on display.m. and 6–11:30 p. % 0911/13310. the structure has a first floor of sandstone surmounted by two half-timbered stories and a gabled roof. 4€ ($4) children and students.m.–11 p. a sculptor and woodcarver known for his “nervous” angular forms and realism. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 3-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse). See map p. and the healing arts. % 0911/231-2568.–6 p. and copies of Dürer’s paintings.. so walking is a pleasure. tours 2. one of the great German artists of the Renaissance.D. Admission: 5€ ($6. Typical of the well-to-do burghers’ houses of the 15th century. Tues–Sun 10 a.m. Open: Summer daily 11 a. (Wed until 9 p. Tours: Guided tours in English Sat 2 p. historic musical instruments. The prehistoric and early historical sections contain finds from the Stone Age and from the burial sites of the Merovingians (a Frankish dynasty ruling from about A.. % 0911/221-081. Built in 1420. so you need to choose your areas of interest and consult the galleries’ map frequently. Open: Mon (July–Sept only) 10 a. Everyday life in Germany through the ages is documented with domestic furnishings.m.m. Main courses: 8€–13€ ($10–$16).50€ ($3. .m. Bus: 36 to Maxplatz. U-Bahn: Opernhaus (then a 3minute walk north on Kartäusergasse).m. and you need to give yourself at least two hours to see it.

the great Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) on the ground floor and the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) on the second floor look much as they did when King Frederick III rebuilt them in the 15th century. and vegetables. The council of Nuremberg erected another set of buildings in the 14th and 15th centuries when its responsibilities expanded to include the protection of the emperor.) pyramid-shaped stone fountain from 1396. In the northwest corner stands the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain). Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 10-minute walk north following signs).. Some date from medieval . See map p. was the official residence of the German kings and emperors from 1050 to 1571. the Hauptmarkt is the most colorful square in the city. With their heavy oak beams and painted ceilings. fruits. % 0911/2446590. figures of the seven electors appear and pay homage to Emperor Karl IV. has been in ruins since a fire destroyed it in 1420. The oldest part of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). and the castle gardens. Admission: 5€ ($6. % 0911/206-560.and machinemade — fill all three floors of this museum. who lived in the inner core of the castle complex.–6 p.m. The 14th-century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady. the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well).m. Most of the buildings were constructed during the 12th century. armor.m. Watchmen and guards used the ramparts with their parapet walks and secret passages to protect the kings and emperors. a later section. Sun 12:30–6 p.. is Nuremberg’s geographic and symbolic heart. Open: Apr–Sept daily 9 a. free for children 16 and younger.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. 355. Burgstrasse. now a youth hostel.m. dates from 1340. The new buildings include the Kaiserstallung (Emperor’s Stables).–6 p. the 11th-century Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower). Oct–Mar daily 10 a.– 4 p.m. Allot at least an hour to explore the various nooks and crannies of the castle. Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) The Kaiserburg. open Mon–Sat 9 a.25) adults. The oldest portion. The Kaiserburg Museum (% 0911/2009540) contains antique weaponry. Filled with stalls selling fresh flowers. and toys — both hand.m. every day at noon. has on its facade a gilded 16th-century mechanical clock called the Männleinlaufen (a hard-to-translate word meaning “little men running”). just north of the Pegnitz River at the northern end of Königstrasse. The rooms are decorated with period Gothic furnishings. and explains the history of the castle.m. marks the architectural transition from Renaissance to baroque style. Stuttgart. and Nuremberg Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square) 361 The cobblestoned Hauptmarkt. the massive bastions of the fortress. an 18m-high (60-ft. A fine view of the roofs and towers of Nuremberg can be seen from its terraces. looming above the city from its hilltop at the northern edge of the Altstadt. 4€ ($5) students. completed in 1622. on Rathausplatz just off the market square. on the eastern edge of the square.). Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) Nuremberg is a major toy center. and paintings.

Sat–Sun 10 a. Kids can play with toys.–6 p. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Augustinerstrasse and north on Karlstrasse). Bayernstrasse 110 (% 0911/ 231-5666). or do crafts in a supervised playroom.-Lorenz-Kirche (Church of St. where the Nuremberg Trials took place.25) admission includes an audio guide. Inside. a stone tabernacle by Adam Krafft (1496) presents likenesses of the sculptor and two apprentices. to the left of the altar.50€ ($3). % 0911/231-3164. Saturday and Sunday 10 a. to 6 p.362 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Judgment at Nuremberg If you’re interested in a famous landmark of WWII. though. The corridor houses an exhibition that chronicles the ruthless misuse of power under National Socialism. Albert Speer. A glass corridor now pierces the upper level of Speer’s Congress Hall. Lawrence) The largest and most beautiful Gothic church in Nuremberg rises above Lorenzerplatz. .50€ ($3. and.m. Fürther Strasse 110 (% 0911/231-5421. Admission: 5€ ($6. ten were hanged. in room 600. Here. In November 2001. 355. to enjoy this acclaimed museum. magic lanterns. Karlstrasse 13–15. carved in linden wood by Veit Stoss. the 5€ ($6. See map p. I strongly recommend a visit here because it provides a chronological overview of the rise of Nazism and its subsequent horrors in a compelling format. or 65 to the Docu-Zentrum stop. soaring pillars adorned with expressive Gothic sculptures line the nave. Twin towers flank the west portal with its sculptures depicting the theme of redemption.–5 p. draw. To reach the center. to 6 p.m. You don’t have to be a kid.. more if you have kids in tow. 21 of the surviving leaders of the Third Reich stood trial in November 1945 for crimes against humanity. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. reopened as the new Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds). from Adam and Eve through the Last Judgment.m.. 2.m. 55.. Admission is 2.m. U-Bahn: Bärenschanze). St. hangs over the entrance to the choir.m. which is larger than the Colosseum in Rome. Afterward. times. including Barbie dolls and LEGO blocks. optical toys (such as peep shows. The St.25) adults. The church contains two more remarkable works: The Angelic Salutation (1519). Exhibits include a large collection of dolls and old dollhouses. The center is open Monday through Friday 9 a.10) students and children. visit the Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (International Military Tribunal).m. Give yourself at least an hour. The building still serves as a courthouse. and model railways and other miniature vehicles.m. so tours (in German only) are available only on Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 4 p. and a magnificent stained-glass rosette window glows above the organ at the west end. take Tram 6 or 9 or Bus 36.-Lorenze-Kirche was begun in 1270 and took more than 200 years to complete.m. a specially remodeled courtroom. Objects on the top floor illustrate the history of toys since 1945. and stereoscopes). the huge Congress Hall designed by Hitler’s architect.

Shopping in Nuremberg Located across from the railway station. to 4 p. is a theater complex offering productions of drama (in the Schauspielhaus) and opera (in the Opernhaus). Between the two east pillars is a 16thcentury Crucifixion group dominated by a life-size Crucifix by Veit Stoss.m. U-Bahn: Lorenzerkirche).m.m. Oct–Feb daily 9 a. Hofman. The shops are open weekdays (and Sun in Dec) from 10 a.m.m. Rathausplatz 7 (% 0911/204-848. Sebalderplatz. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof) is an enclave of halftimbered shops and stalls where artisans create and sell a wide range of handicrafts (along with touristy souvenirs). 355. Bus: 36). opens early for big breakfasts (served all day) that run from 4€ to 18€ ($5–$22) and offers soup. and . U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit).-Sebaldus-Kirche Consecrated in 1273. St. The nave and west choir are Romanesque. held here for some 400 years. Nuremberg’s Hauptmarkt becomes the setting for the Christkindlmarkt.. this church dedicated to Nuremberg’s patron saint represents the stylistic transition from late Romanesque to early Gothic styles. tinsel.m. and Nuremberg 363 See map p.. % 0911/209-287. dance. June–Sept daily 9:30 a. From Advent Sunday to December 24. Sun 1–4 p. % 0911/214-2516.m.m. Performances by singers and musicians.m.–6 p. Richard-Wagner-Platz 2–10 (% 0911/231-3808. fruitcakes. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit the station). and Saturday from 10 a. Admission: Free. Lebkuchen (see the sidebar “Love that Lebkuchen”). salad. the oldest Christmas fair in Germany. and Glühwein (hot red wine spiced with cloves and cinnamon). The Christmas fair transforms Hauptmarkt into a small town of wood-and-cloth stalls selling tree ornaments. candies. is Gothic. Triebhaus. to 6:30 p. See map p.. Lorenzer Platz 10. handicrafts. Kaiserstrasse 1–9 (% 0911/235-5075. the Handwerkerhof (Craftsmen’s Courtyard. sells painted tin figures of soldiers and Christmas decorations.–5 p.m. and theater. Living it up after dark in Nuremberg The Städtische Bühnen (State Theaters).m.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Open: Mar–May daily 9:30 a.–8 p. Admission: Free. Karl-Griolenberger-Strasse 28 (% 0911/ 223-041. Tickets range from 8€ to 50€ ($10–$63). The square is especially beautiful at night.m. U-Bahn: Opernhaus). 355. when all the surrounding buildings are floodlit. consecrated in 1379. and puppet groups occur daily. the larger east choir. Stuttgart.m.–4 p. U-Bahn: Weisser Turm). has classic and collectible Steiff bears for 90€ to 140€ ($112–$175). An artists’ hangout. Steiff Galerie..

m. sandwich specials from 4. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. has a pleasant patio where you can order a drink or a sandwich.60–$7.m. to 1 a.50) until 10:30 p. Café Ruhestörung.60–$8. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche).50€ to 6€ ($5. to 1 a. Sandwiches and light meals cost 4. inexpensive gift. to 1 a.m. . These delicious honey-andspice cakes evolved into their round shape in Nuremberg.m. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche). Lebkuchen makes a great. sells Lebkuchen packed in containers that look like half-timbered German houses. Tetzelgasse 21 (% 0911/221-921. The city’s been the capital of Lebkuchen since the early 15th century. many places make and sell Lebkuchen in several different forms. Zollhausstrasse 30 (% 0911/89660.364 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Love that Lebkuchen Lebkuchen (layb-koo-kin) is to Nuremberg what Marzipan is to Lübeck.m. Lebkuchen Frauenholz. Many consider Lebkuchen Schmidt.50€ to 7€ ($5.75). While jealously guarding their recipes. Bergstrasse 1 (% 0911/243-464.lebkuchenschmidt.m. to be the best Lebkuchen store in Nuremberg. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 1 a.

The Rhine also is at the musical heart of Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen. medieval towns. and northwest to the North Sea.Chapter 19 Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the Rhine-side city of Cologne ᮣ Enjoying a boat trip on the Rhine ᮣ Exploring the warm wine country of the Rheingau ᮣ Taking in the scenery of the lovely Mosel Valley T he Rhine (spelled Rhein in German) is one of the world’s great rivers. Sitting right on the river. miles) and is a treasure-trove for tourists. For about two centuries now. she sat on the rock combing her long.320km (820 miles) long.) In this chapter. you can drive into the Rheingau. encompasses roughly 23. the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world. blonde hair and taking out her revenge by luring fishermen and ship captains to their destruction. was a beautiful young woman who threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover. Through the centuries. this city makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland. see Chapter 17). I give most of the coverage to Cologne. who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles. Lorelei. flows through the Bodensee (Lake Constance. so the story goes. The Rhineland. north. Transformed into a siren. km (9. From Cologne. and vineyard-covered slopes.000 sq. a lovely winegrowing section of the . the area along the river’s west bank. the most famous being the one attached to a high rock called the Lorelei (also spelled Loreley) towering above the town of St. the river originates in southeastern Switzerland. the Rhine has inspired many legends. the Rhineland’s largest and most important city. and forms Germany’s southwestern boundary as it continues west. Some 1. (See “The Rhineland” map in this chapter.000 sq. Goarshausen.

or a boisterous outdoor concert in the Rheinpark. In addition to its substantial Roman legacy. and a humble Romanesque church wedged in among luxury shops. and general delirium. You can see Roman ruins in an underground parking garage. The city also is famous as the birthplace of eau de Cologne. . visitors and citizens alike stroll along the Rhine promenades and flock to outdoor taverns and restaurants to enjoy the pleasures of a Kölsch. Older than the cathedral. and a substantial meal of typical Rhineland cuisine. When the weather turns warm. Cologne’s unique and delicious beer. The Kölner themselves are refreshingly relaxed and down-to-earth in how they enjoy their city. many of whom come to attend the giant international trade fairs held in the Köln Messe. covered with meticulously tended vineyards.000 years of history. an opera at the highly regarded opera house. a dizzyingly ornate Gothic cathedral beside a modern museum complex. the city boasts 12 major Romanesque churches. when Roman legions set up camp here. you can traverse 2.” one of the most important pilgrimage cities in medieval Christendom.366 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. Music. Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine Visitors to this lively metropolis on the Rhine. Germany’s fourth-largest and oldest city. Cologne — spelled Köln in Germany and pronounced koeln — offers far more than just Germany’s largest cathedral. Ancient traditions are annually renewed in the city’s raucous pre-Lenten Carnival (called Fasching). the Mosel Valley. is also worth exploring. a time of masked balls. the churches drew medieval pilgrims from all across Europe to “Holy Cologne. car. parades. is likewise a vital component of life here.D. and getting there is easy by train. are immediately struck by Cologne’s cheek-by-jowl juxtaposition of the very old with the very new.C. 50.. Cologne traces its beginnings to 38 B. The range of its museums and the quality of their collections make Cologne one of the outstanding museum cities of Germany. Every year they welcome millions of visitors. As early as A. whether it’s a symphony concert in the modern philharmonic hall. or plane. Getting there Cologne is one of the major cities in western Germany. I describe the highlights of all these side trips later in this chapter. or trade-fair grounds. On a ten-minute walk in Cologne. the emperor Claudius gave the city municipal rights as capital of a Roman province. And although not as grand and legend-filled as the Rhine.

The trip takes 20 minutes. to nearly 2 a. The fastest and simplest way to get into the city is by taking an S-Bahn train (S-13) from the new airport train station directly to the Cologne main train www.m. It runs from 5 a. is located 14km (9 miles) southeast of the city.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 367 The Rhineland Rh A57 A31 A3 A43 A1 Hamm A2 A44 7 0 0 64 55 30 mi Paderborn N 30 km in e 68 Herne NETHERLANDS Duisburg Essen A2 Dortmund Hamburg 7 A44 7 Mönchengladbach Hochneukirch A61 A4 Düsseldorf A46 A1 Wuppertal A45 55 ANY R MBerlin GE Bonn Area of detail Frankfurt 252 am Main A44 Cologne (Köln) A4 Siegen 62 Munich 3 Aachen Bonn Bad Godesberg A1 258 Marburg A45 A3 3 Alsfeld A5 A61 255 42 54 Giessen Wetzlar 49 Rh in e BELGIUM 9 Koblenz A3 A27 A5 A45 Daun A48 A61 54 Gelnhausen ose A1 327 Wiesbaden Rüdesheim Frankfurt am Main A3 M l Assmannshausen Bingen 50 Bitburg Mainz Aschaffenburg Rh i Bad Kreuznach LUXEMBOURG Trier Luxembourg A1 41 A63 A61 Darmstadt A5 A67 M a in ne Idar-Oberstein 271 Bockenheim Grünstadt Neuleiningen A6 9 Worms 469 A62 Mannheim Ne Kaiserslautern A8 A6 A62 Ludwigshafen Speyer 10 ckar 27 Heidelberg A6 A65 9 Saarbrücken Metz F R A N C E A5 Heilbronn Karlsruhe By plane Cologne’s airport.75). Direct flights arrive from most major European cities. the fare is 3€ ($3.airport-cgn. Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn (% 02203/ 40-40-01. . A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 25€ ($31).

good for a single one-way fare within the inner city is 1. Frankfurt (trip time: 21⁄2 hours). Frequent daily trains arrive from Berlin (trip time: 51⁄2 hours). is easily explored on foot. The office is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. except for three gateways. The Altstadt spreads in a semicircle west from the Rhine to a ring road that follows the line of the 12th-century city walls ( to 5 p. For train information and schedules. the “new” part of town dating from the 19th century. www. is a . and many of them are still there. The office has city maps. in the 19th century). is located just a few steps from the cathedral. By car Cologne is easily reached from major German cities.m. to 8 p. including the mighty cathedral and the most important museums.75€ ($1) for children.m. are located in the Altstadt (Old Town). so reaching the city from anywhere in Germany or the rest of Europe is easy. a room-rental service (3€/$3. the historical heart of Cologne. where the Romans built their first walled The center of the Altstadt is the Innenstadt (Inner City).de/tourismus.bahn. Besides providing the best views of the cathedral-dominated Cologne skyline. Finding information The Köln Tourismus Office. the Kölner Tageskarte. the restored and much altered medieval core of the city. (See the “Cologne” map in this chapter. on the Rhine’s east bank. Unter Fettenhennen 19 (% 0221/221-30400.” later in this chapter. Getting around The compact and pedestrian-friendly Altstadt.m. and S-Bahn (light-rail) system.m. The city also has an excellent bus. Deutz is where you find the Köln Messe (trade-fair grounds) and the Rhinepark. Getting oriented The major sights of Cologne. The city’s early industrial plants were concentrated in Deutz. while the A4 Autobahn travels east and west. and Sunday 10 a. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). A CityTicket. described under “Exploring Cologne. The A3 Autobahn connects the city to the north and south.368 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany By train Cologne is a major rail hub. and information on city attractions. next to the cathedral. costs 8€ ($10) and enables you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network (but the Cologne Welcome Card. is called Deutz. tram. The area across the river. The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is in the heart of the city. where you find the cathedral and most of the major attractions. The ring road and a greenbelt in the southwest (the location of the university) girdle Neustadt. 0. A day ticket. and Hamburg (trip time: 41⁄2 hours). U-Bahn (subway).50€ ($2) for adults.

astr. i 9 8 Hohe Strasse Hohenzollernbrücke 4 5 Am Ho f INNENSTADT 6 7 Frankenverft 2 DEUTZ S tr . 13 Heumarkt Fleischme ngerg. ach nb h le Fitzengraben Ja hn auRhein strasse ch n e R h i strasse Severi nsbrück e en ass Am ais el- str en os ha M xem U llr Bus Ka Lo th rin Sa ge rS Lu rtä se chg ich Barbarossaplatz Sa lie rri Bu ng rg un str de as se rs tr. r- Tanzbrunnen n imi M ax t r .P rb e g th erl Ro en bach gra b ba Mü Waidmarkt str . s en - Köln Messe e r n -Str Auf dem Berlich senstr. iden ga sse us ALTSTADT-S ALTSTADT-SÜD V Sieb or den en b u rg en us er- rge ga s se ergLandsb e strass asse nstr Rose Hamburg Berlin en-e Bay ass str e bu GERMANY Cologne r- W . 15 Sa 16 16 Deutzer Brüc ke Mittelstrasse Rudolfplatz SchilderCäcilien- gasse Nordt Süd Fahr Hahnenstr. Frankfurt Munich wall erin Sev sUbie rrin g els ACCOMMODATIONS Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Excelsior Hotel Ernst 3 Hotel Engelbertz 11 Hyatt Regency Köln 2 Senats Hotel 14 DINING Bräuhaus Sion 7 Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Früh am Dom 8 Hanse Stube 3 Sünner im Walfisch 15 Taku 3 ATTRACTIONS Dom 4 4711 Haus 10 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 9 Museum Ludwig 6 Kölner-Seilbahn 1 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 5 Schnütgen Museum 12 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 13 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn i Siegburger Str.A Gl Erftstrasse ad Strenba ass ch e er ll tra wa Ein ns reo e G Kyotostr.-A p Richmodstr. str. n - 14 Alter Markt 11 lzg. 3 3 Go Haupt. Johan nisstr. Agripp Ro on h str bac as se r. lks sse ga rin ll K a r tä use Eifelplatz n- wa g f rho D r eik ö n i g ens t r. Mindener s s t ras s e St ras s e Minoritenstrasse Fischmarkt rger Habsbug rin Ei fe Am Leystapel - Mau ritius wall ng l lner Neukö e Strass Hohe nstau in w fenri eg Holz- TelAviv -Str asse Severin strasse markt r lsbe be Ga gerstrasse l al lw . Mauri tiusste Neumarkt Gürzenichstr.25 km Uf e M Turiner Wi Kai lhe ser lm -Ri ng Tunisstrasse Mohrenstrasse Am Gereonshof Gere onst r. erst Neue W ey We sse kt G r o n ma r ch e G ri e au Bl er. Thieboldgasse 12 LeonhardTietz-Str. ALTSTADT-NORD M a r zellens t r . St.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 369 Cologne 0 0 0. V ictori astrass tr.gasslde bahnhof Kennedy-Ufer Ch rist str oph. Friesen. i n er gu st Au Pipi nstr.Ma Frie gnu sstra sse platz Hohenzol lernFriesenwall ring s t r. Alten Uf er Konrad .25 mi 0. e Ur s u las Machab äerst ras se de n a ue Ha a ns rin g s cht Eigelstein b ay ac Strasse Domstrasse Dagobertst rasse R h i n e N r tr hs as se Ha g rin nsa nso re Ge wall Thürmchenswall 1 RHEINPARK tr. E hr e n s t r a s se Br e i t e T u ni 10 Brüc ke str . ch sse Vo tra tra NEUSTADT Eif rte n VOLKSGARTEN str. Zeu g haus rgmauer Bu .

U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). and general delirium. and modern.25) if you hail a taxi from the street. Rates include buffet breakfast. better deal because it includes public transportation and free or reduced-price entry to museums and other attractions). call Taxi-Ruf at % 0221/19410. Fischmarkt 1–3. call VRS at % 01803/504-030. parades.” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events in Germany. Taxi meters start at To order a tiled bathroom with shower. The hotel has 40 rooms. the city’s “fifth season. some rooms have beamed ceilings. right on the Rhine in the busiest section of the Altstadt. The decoration throughout is light. Purchase tickets from the automated machines (labeled Fahrscheine). The season officially lasts from New Year’s Eve to Ash Wednesday. Staying in Cologne Also see Chapter 22 for details on Cologne’s premier hotel. Be sure to validate your ticket. 90€–108€ ($112–$135) double with bathroom. wooden staircase (or take the elevator) to your room. See map p. family-run hotel is in a central location close to everything in the Altstadt. . Natives call this citywide celebration Fasteleer or Fastelovend. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt The two town houses that make up this hotel stand on a corner of a historic square. cheery. www. from bus drivers. all with small bathrooms that have a tub or shower. 369. the fare rises 1. plus 1€ ($1.370 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Celebrating carnival in Cologne Cologne’s Carnival. % 0221/272-7777. Excelsior Hotel Ernst ($$$$). The city buzzes with masked balls. The 31 rooms are fairly basic but comfortable and not lacking in a kind of old-fashioned charm. Ten units come with a small. From the wine restaurant on the ground floor (see “Dining in Cologne. Hotel Engelbertz $ Altstadt This modest. For information about public transportation. validation machines are in stations and on buses.50€ ($3). Fax: 0221/257-4232.” later in this chapter). or at the stations. 50667 Köln. Rates: 64€–85€ ($80–$106) double without bathroom. you climb up a curving.50€ ($2) per kilometer thereafter.

Porz Steinstr. Frechen-Benzeirath K Airport Businesspark 7 se as M g len üh Fre e ch nR at u ha s nK he irc he K Steinstr. Os Au to th eim hn ba Ste e inw Köln Hbf g Po rze Bf Deutz / Messe r r llb llb De De . 3 13 Mengenich Oflenhauerring 5 Ossendorf 15 e feld k üc M k üc rS s au up Ha tr. / Gürtel K Geldernstr. Reichenspergerplatz Außere Kanalstr. Berrenrather Str./Gürtel Leyendeckerstr. 19 Heimersdorf Longericher Herforder Str. r g ma swe en ttg Rö Königsforst 9 Melaten Wüllner-str. Berliner Str. Zülpicher Str. Düren g ift r. K-Deutz Dom/Hbf Christophstr. 9 Gottesweg Klettenbergpark Michaelshoven Rosenhügel Kalscheurer Weg 19 Sürth Efferen Zollstockgürtel Godorf Zündorf Kiebitzweg 7 Wesseling Nord Hürth-Hermülheim Zollstock Südfriedhof Wesseling Fischenich 12 Brühl-Vochem Wesseling Süd Brühl Nord Urfeld Brühl Mitte Brühl Süd Widdig Brühl-Badorf Uedorf Brühl-Schwadorf Hersel Walberberg Merten 18 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn 371 Sankt Augustin Ort . Von-Sparr-Str. K-Blumenberg 5 Odenthaler Str. K Hansaring K Ehrenfeld K-Müngersdorf / Technologiepark Venicer Str. Sülz Hermeskeller Platz Sülzgürtel 8 Porz Markt Gürtel Siegstr. Altonaer Platz 6 12 Longerich Friedhof Meerfeldstr. Amsterdamer Neusser Str. Leuchterstr. Gürtel Stüttgenhof 8 Poll Salmstr. Wolffsohnstr. K-Buchforst Nußbaumerstr. 17 Buchheim Frankfurter Str. Bayenhalgürtel Frechen Bahnhof Eifelplatz Chlodwigplatz Kloster Heinrich-Lübke-Ufer Euskirchener Str. Holweide Vischering Str. Mommsen-str. Moltke-str. d pfa tst r. Gutenbergstr. Mauritluskirche Buir Merzenich K Frankfurter Str. Schönhauser Str. Neumarkt Weyertal 15 Baumschulenweg Mersdorf Universität 6 Kölner Str. Wiener Florastr./Gürtel Slabystr. Ensen Arnulfstr. Keupstr./ Piusstr. Gilgaustr. Am Emberg K-Worringen K-Chorweiler Nord 6 15 K-Chorweiler Chorweiler 7 K Volkhovener Weg 8 Niehl Mülheim Berliner Str. Dasselstr./Gürtel Liebigstr. Str. Bottensternstr./Bf Süd 17 Raiffeisenstr. Im Weidenbruch 16 Niehl Sebastianstr./ oh nk ein eid h Maarweg Gürtel Universitäts-str. tr rS th Ra - FrechenKönigsdorf Appeilhofplatz Heumarkt Suevenstr. u Ne Bocklemünd 17 Thielenbruch 18 19 Breslauer Platz / Hbf Koelnmesse Osthallen Wilhelm-Sollmann-Str. Takuplatz Platz K-Mülheim Zoo / Flora LenauAkazienweg K-Nippes Grünstr./Gürtel n e s n e e n Aachener Str./ Ulreporte Lindenburg Ubierring Eifelwall Haus Vorst Westhoven Gürtel Weißhausstr. Eifelstr. Maria Himmelfahrt Str. Sülzburgstr. Westfriedhof Mülheim Iltisstr. eg tr./ Rodenkirchen Herthastr./ Rektor-Klein-Str./ M e Eu Clar Gürtel ter l A Brahmsstr. Str. Stegerwaldsiedlung Ebertplatz Subbelrather Str. Mollwitzstr. Nesselrodestr. sp ka se rst ie rg str en au ide lle tr. 18 K-Longerich 9 Scheibenstr./ Mediapark Körnerstr. rin r St chst är e ilit pen nba Dürener Str. Parkgürtel Kinderkrankenhaus Margaretastr. Waldecker Str. Wichheimer Str. Lohsestr. au nfo M be er Fr ch pe pp im rS e th rS ek nw en ba ück sthe he Ka ldae Ho ue ölne fra Kipp rank r öh Kalk Mer Fieh u e lk e m u B I L a H R F N F K K 1 Bensberg . weg rsdo nerg Str. horrem Sindorf 1 Weinsbergstr. platz Escher Str. Severinstr. 3 Schaffrathsgasse 4 16 Buchheim Herfer Str. W Ba M Ju Rh Bf Deutz / DeutzKölnarena Kalker Bad Deutzer Freiheit u He Weiden Schulstr. n Gürtel dio m Sta Hans-Böckler-Platz ru Oskar-Jägarie nt rf Bf West Friesenplatz Ze tr.S-Bahn Langenfeld LEV-Rheindorf 12 Merkenich 1 Nievenheim 3 LEV-Küppersteg Schiebusch LEV Mitte Bayerwerk K-Stammheim Bergisch Gladbach K-Dellbrück K-Holweide Duckterath 13 4 Dormagen Dormagen Bayerwek 4 Merkenich Mitte Fordwerke Nord Fordwerke Mitte Fordwerke Süd Geestemünder Str. K-Lövenich Kalk Post K Trimbornstr. Pohligstr. Porz Porz-Wahn Spich Troisdorf Köln / Bonn Flughafen c Fre Siegburg He nn ef en nk Bla bu rg M e art n o Eit rf n ld rn h he nfe de ac rsc tte sb Au (Sieg) hla He Da Sc Ro Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Sankt Augustin-Mülldorf Sankt Augustin Markt Sankt Augustin Kloster Buschdorf 16 Severinsbrücke Drehbrücke Zülpicher Platz Poller Kirchweg Gleuser Str. Str ter r fu nk f mp fad n Fra dho .

regency. See map p. Hämchen (cured pork knuckle cooked in vegetable broth).hyatt. AE. north on Hohe Strasse. Many have views of the Rhine and the cathedral on the other side. Tatar (finely minced raw beef mixed with egg yolk. The 305 rooms are comfortably large and stylishly furnished. stylish hotel with its bright-yellow lobby is located in the heart of the Altstadt. Rates: 160€–375€ ($200–$469) double. MC. Cologne is not a city particularly known for its gourmet dining. Rates: 120€–245€ ($150– $306). Rates include buffet breakfast. www. 369. The Hyatt has fine restaurants and a fitness center with a pool. later in this section). Hyatt Regency Köln $$ –$$$$ Deutz Located in Deutz. Fax: 0221/ 206-2200. 369. 50679 Köln-Deutz. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Gürzenichstrasse. Rather. % 0221/20620. Rates include breakfast. Dining in Cologne Although several highly rated restaurants have established themselves here in recent years. generally over enormous portions of typical Rhineland fare in crowded restaurants that are gemütlich (cozy) rather than elegant. onions. Senats Hotel $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. DC. Unter Goldschmied 9–17. % 0180/523-1234 or 0221/ 50667 Köln. and steam room. V. Matjesfilet mit grünen Bohnen (pickled white herring served with green butter beans and potatoes). sauna. 50667 Köln. V. a five-minute walk across the Rhine from the train station. Fax: 0221/ 257-8924. See map p. Himmel und Äd (apples and . The hotel has a nice ambience www. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across the bridge). Kölsch Kaviar (smoked blood sausage served with raw onion rings). % 0221/257-8994.hotel-engelbertz. AE. and spices and served on bread or a roll). 369. Local dishes at these and other nongourmet restaurants generally include Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese).de. Obenmarspforten 1–3. Rates: 100€ ($125) double. AE. modern style. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. Bathrooms are on the small side but vary according to the room.372 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map www. To eat and drink as the Kölner do. Bathrooms have deep tubs with showers. MC. MC. Fax: 0221/828-1370. visit one of the city’s old tavernrestaurants (see listings for Früh am Dom and Bräuhaus Sion. and east on Obenmarspforten). V. Kennedy-ufer 2A. this modern full-service hotel features a dramatic lobby with a waterfall and a glamorous overall ambience. The furnishings in the 59 rooms have a comfortable. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across Roncalliplatz and south on Unter Goldschmied). it’s a place for conversation and drinking.

called a Köbes. The waiters always serve the beer in a tall. just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral. Closed Dec 22–Jan 10.m. a double with bathroom and breakfast goes for 60€ ($ 75). Reservations recommended. delicious. which they bring to your table in a special carrier called a Kölschkranz. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This popular wine restaurant (and hotel. . MC. Although the wine is the main reason for coming (the local Rhine wines are that special). Unter Taschenmacher 5. or stuffed mushrooms. Open: Daily noon to 11:30 p. the wood paneling a little smoky with time and frequent polishing.or oven-roasted marinated beef) with an almond-raisin sauce.50€–23€ ($12–$28). If you go to any of the taverns in town. Kölsch: Cologne’s beer of choice Even if you don’t like beer. Bockwurst (sausage) with potato salad. and Speckpfannekuchen (pancakes fried in smoked bacon fat). Fish main courses include roasted pikeperch on lentils with balsamic vinegar and salmon poached in Rhine wine. or sauerbraten (pot. Bräuhaus Sion $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN If you want a traditional local Bräuhaus where the beer is good. No credit cards. Expect to pay about 1. called a Stangen. Main courses: 9. and potato dumplings. 369. and the food portions inexpensive and generous. thin glass. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt).m. The Bräuhaus also has a few rooms upstairs that it rents out. see “Staying in Cologne” earlier in this chapter) opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine. and north on Unter Taschenmacher). % 0221/257-8540. The menu also includes vegetarian and pasta dishes. V. 369.50€ ($2) for a small glass of Kölsch on tap. a dry. A Rhineland meat specialty is sauerbraten with almonds. Main courses 9€–16€ ($11–$20). topfermented beer that’s brewed only in Cologne. Fischmarkt 1–3. See map p. Kölsch has an alcohol content of about 3 percent (most other types of German beer have an alcohol content ranging from 4 percent to 6 percent). west on Mühlengasse.–11 p. such as Riesenhämchen (boiled pigs’ knuckles) with sauerkraut. the cuisine also is very good. The main courses are traditional and filling Rhineland fare.m. marinated herring. Open: Daily 11 a. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north along the Rhine promenade. you’ll probably like Kölsch (koehlsch). you can order a Kölsch from one of the blue-aproned waiters. You may start with escargots. Sion is the place. AE. % 0221/272-7777.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 373 potatoes boiled and mashed together and served with fried blood sausage). See map p. raisins.

Reservations recommended. V. DC. The menu changes daily but may include crayfish and avocado salad or grilled scallops for starters. Fri 3 p. to midnight. 369.m. is a good choice for atmospheric dining. 369. For dessert. A step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered facade. AE. this tavern also has a beer garden. a Cologne specialty of smoked pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and potato purée. has a 1. Open: 8 a. is better). on a narrow street set back from the Rhine. and hearty portions. Salzgasse 13. iced melon risotto with shrimp skewer. See map p. AE. See map p. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. how about strawberries with cappuccino-chocolate sauce? The wine list is exemplary. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Salzgasse). and leg of venison with a cognac-thyme sauce. % 0221/261-3250.374 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Früh am Dom $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN This Bräuhaus is the best all-around for atmosphere. Main courses: 14€–30€ ($17–$37). to midnight. Main courses: 9. to midnight. it dates from 1626. DC. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. on the ground floor. V. The restaurant serves many Rhineland specialties and dishes influenced by French cuisine. Domplatz. and 6:30–10:30 p.50€–19€ ($12–$24). Früh-Kölsch.m. A favorite dish is Hämchen. with a different German specialty offered every day of the week. Tasty main courses include basil risotto. Fixed-price business lunch: 30€–38€ ($37–$47). Reservations recommended.m. You may try the pork cutlet with fried onions and crispy roast potatoes or the land-and-sea platter with roast beef and several kinds of fish. to midnight.m. Hanse Stube $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH One of Cologne’s top gourmet restaurants. See map p. the tavern’s beer on tap. % 0221/257-7879. Open: Mon–Thurs 5 p. Hanse Stube offers excellent cuisine and service in quiet. Fixed-price menus: 72€–79€ ($90–$99). Sat–Sun 11 a.000-year-old brewing tradition. Sünner im Walfisch $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/FRENCH This Bräuhaus. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and across Roncalliplatz to Am Hof). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). MC. Main courses: 9€–17€ ($11–$21). Am Hof 12–14. stuffed kohlrabi with truffle. % 0221/270-3402. .m. Other specialties include Sauerkrautsuppe (sauerkraut soup) and Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings). economy. In summer. elegant surroundings. 369. The menu is in English.m. No credit cards. You can eat in the upstairs or downstairs dining rooms (upstairs. MC.

369. round off your visit with an evening stroll along the Rhine promenade in Deutz. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). A one-day card costs 9€ ($11). the service highly professional. Domplatz. the roughly half-square-mile area of the original Roman colony. The food is good. the choir contains original. The choir. and a series of statues made in the cathedral workshop between 1270 and 1290. screen paintings. The giant reliquary is a masterpiece of goldsmith work dating from the end of the 12th century. Main courses: 23€–37€ ($29–$46). the Cologne cathedral was the tallest building in the world. AE. seared monkfish with green mango salad.). The restaurant’s striking design includes a serpentine fish tank built into the floor. V. More than 600 years elapsed from the laying of the cornerstone in 1248 to the placement of the last finial (a decorative element) on the south tower in 1880. the Asian restaurant in the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. Reservations recommended for dinner. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. The Dreikönigschrein (Shrine of the Three Magi). Upon completion. which can be visited only on guided tours. richly carved oak stalls. or curry with beef filet.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Taku $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt JAPANESE/ASIAN 375 Taku. is the most important part of the cathedral. Dom (Cathedral) Considering how much time passed during the building of this gigantic edifice.m. Consecrated in 1322. a twoday card costs 14€ ($17). and 6–10 p. The famous Three Kings windows in the clerestory (the area above the nave) were installed in the early 14th century. MC. Exploring Cologne You find the cathedral and all the major museums in the Innenstadt.m. The Cologne Welcome Card. or more ambitious dishes such as sweet-and-sour prawn soup with baked pineapple. a beef filet salad. Overwhelming is the simplest way to describe it. DC. housed in a glass case at the end of the choir. is a serenely comfortable spot to enjoy sea-fresh sushi and sashimi. its twin filigreed spires rising to a height of 157m (515 ft. the largest cathedral in northern Europe. See map p. the cathedral . it’s a wonder that the Gothic facade is stylistically coherent. In addition to some magnificent Renaissance-era stained-glass windows in the north aisle. and a one-day family/group card good for two adults and two children or three adults costs 18€ ($22). % 0221/270-3910. is the cathedral’s major treasure. After a day of sightseeing. Fixed-price dinner menus: 49€–69€ ($61–$86). Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. is good for travel on all forms of public transportation and gets you into most museums for free or at a reduced cost. available from the tourist office.

m. you’re in reasonably good shape. The painting is a masterpiece of the Cologne school — Italian in format. See map p. tower daily 9 a. home décor. 2. German architect Mies van der Rohe. and 3:30 p.90) adults.m.50) adults.25) children and students.. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the Dom on Unter Fettenhenn to An der Rechtsschule). Domkloster. the first and only cable-car system in Europe designed to span a major river. Admission: Cathedral free. Flemish in the precision of its execution.m. On the ground floor and mezzanine. % 0221/547-4184.. tower alone 2€ ($2. treasury daily 10 a. is a rare monumental sculpture carved in Cologne in the late tenth century and reputedly the oldest-existing large-scale crucifix in the Western world. 2. The cathedral’s Schatzkammer (Treasury) is rather disappointing. (winter until dusk). and the American designer Charles Eames. Give yourself about an hour to see everything. Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) The treasures on display in this museum include furniture.–5 p.–5 p.25) adults. tour cost: 4€ ($5) adults. 2€ ($2. the exhibits.m.m. Tours: English-language tours Mon–Sat 11 a. the enclosed gondolas cross the river beside the Zoobrücke (Zoo Bridge) between the Rheinpark in Deutz and the zoo. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (you see the cathedral as you come out of the train station). Riehler Strasse 180.50€ ($6.m. Adoration of the Magi. Open: Tues–Sun 11 a. See map p.m. Kölner Seilbahn (Cologne Cable Car) You get the best panoramic view of the city of Cologne by taking the Kölner Seilbahn. Open: Cathedral daily 6 a. 3€ ($3.10) children and students. The Art Nouveau room is particularly impressive. Peter) for an inspiring view of the city and the Rhine.– 6 p.m. 1€ ($1. In operation since 1957. and you aren’t missing much if you skip it.60€ ($3. the guided tours last one hour.20€ ($5. hanging in a chapel on the north side of the choir.25) children 6–12. You get a great view of the cathedral and the river traffic along the Rhine. exclusively from the 20th century.m. Admission: 4. 369. among others.–7:30 p. Open: Apr–Oct daily 10 a. 2. and handicrafts from the Middle Ages to the present day. 369. See map p. on the other hand. and 12:30. Sun 2 and 3:30 p. The trip takes about 15 minutes each way. % 0221/9258-4730. 369. An der Rechtsschule. .m. On the south side of the choir is Stephan Lochner’s altarpiece. include rooms and furniture by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.376 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany really has only two other must-see treasures.m. U-Bahn: Zoo/Flora (then a 2-minute walk south to the departure point on the west side of the river). treasury and tower combined 5€ ($6. The Gero Cross.75) children.m. % 0221/221-23860. If.m.50€ ($3. you can climb the 509 stairs of the 14th-century south tower (entry through the Portal of St.–6 p.50) children and students.25) adults. created around 1445. You can make a circuit of the interior in about half an hour.. Admission: Round-trip ticket 5.

you find an ancient black-andwhite mosaic floor covered with swastikas.D.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 377 The Roman city of Colonia By 50 B. devoted to the daily life of the Romans. Give yourself at least an hour. Julius Caesar had extended the borders of the Roman Empire as far as the Rhine and established an alliance with the Germanic Ubii tribe on the site of presentday Cologne. which once ran down to the Roman harbor. Cologne’s Roman period lasted until A. is inextricably bound with the history of Rome — a legacy that is documented in this fascinating museum. 40 for a Roman officer. 50.. The exhibits explore themes or types: religious life. 369.50€ ($9. which extols the joys of good living. dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art. is devoted to the history of photography. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. The Roman-Germanic Museum was built around the magnificent Dionysius mosaic.50€ ($7) children and students. Before you enter. The museum covers the period that extends from the Stone Age to the period of Charlemagne (9th century). opened in 1986. it is the largest antique tomb ever found north of the Alps. the swastika — probably Indian in origin — was a symbol of good luck and happiness. and was known in Latin as the crux gamata. trade and industry. Portions of an original Roman wall still stand beneath Domplatz in the underground parking lot. On the second floor. You need at least an hour to browse through the entire museum. you can see a superlative collection of Roman glassware and a world-renowned collection of Roman jewelry.m.m. Museum Ludwig This museum. Admission: 7. Exhibits represent nearly every major artist and art movement of the 20th century. constructed around A. look at the section of the Roman North Gate preserved on Domplatz in front of the cathedral. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and east on Roncalliplatz). See map p.50) adults. On the lowest level. The area became a military garrison with an imperial shrine and eventually was granted rights as a Roman city called Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (CCAA) in A.–6 p. Centuries before the symbol became ominously identified with the atrocities of the Third Reich. produced in a Rhineland workshop in the third century and discovered in 1941 by workers digging an air-raid shelter. The Agfa-Foto-Historama. Towering over the mosaic. % 0221/221-22379. more if you love modern art. and the fabric of the city today. 5. a street paved with its original stones. Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) Cologne’s history.D. on the right side of the museum is Hafenstrasse. is the tomb of Lucius Poblicius. 401. a museum within the museum. and so on. . when the Roman legions were recalled from the Rhine frontier. the cult of the dead.C.D. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.

Sat–Sun 11 a. the museum boasts a rich collection of 19th-century paintings.” Outside.– 6 p. you find an outstanding collection of paintings by the medieval Cologne school (most done between 1330 and 1550). Wed–Fri 10 a. . Opened in 1861.80€ ($7. Wallraf-Richartz Museum The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is one of the country’s greatest repositories of art from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century.m.m. and Vincent van Gogh. A memorable collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings holds pride of place on the second floor. 369. Cäcilienstrasse 29.m.m. Try not to miss this small.–6 p. 369. In 2000.–5 p.m. Sat–Sun 11 a. % 0221/221-22310. Cecilia. Martinstrasse 39. and sculpture on display give you an idea of the artistic blessings bestowed upon “Holy Cologne.378 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. 369.m. with major pieces by the German Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich.m. reliquaries. The Renaissance section includes works by Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach. Called simply Tod (Death).45€ ($8) adults. 3. Schnütgen Museum The Romanesque church of St. In addition to important French and Spanish works.50) children. The relics. crucifixes. patron saint of music) houses one of Cologne’s finest art collections. Admission: 6. Gustave Courbet. among scores of others.m.m. this oddly engaging work is by the Zurich graffiti artist Harald Nägele. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. the museum moved to a new building designed by Cologne architect Oswald Mathias Ungers. splendid sampling of sacred art from the early Middle Ages to the baroque. See map p.m. around the back. Admission: 5. Cäcilien (St..–8 p. % 0221/221-22304. a skeleton has been spray-painted on the walled-in western portal of the church. Open: Tues 10 a. Auguste Renoir. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Unter Käster to Martinstrasse).20€ ($4) adults. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a...25) adults. Give yourself about two hours if you want to browse through all the galleries. Here you find Rubens’s Self-Portrait Amidst the Circle of Friends from Mantua and an enigmatic self-portrait by Rembrandt. 1. Many of the paintings and altarpieces depict legends from the lives of martyred saints who became identified with the “Holy Cologne” of the Middle Ages — St.–5 p. On the first floor.95€ ($5) children. Admission: 3. See map p. Ursula in particular. % 0221/221-21119. U-Bahn: Neumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Pipinstrasse. 3.m.–5 p. Edvard Munch. the museum also is one of Germany’s oldest. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk south past the cathedral to Roncalliplatz).30€ ($4) students and children. The new museum nicely shows off the art but somehow feels like an office building from the 1950s. which becomes Cäcilienstrasse).m. Roncalliplatz 4.90€ ($2.

and Italian designer shoes. next to the cathedral (% 0221/2801.” but Echt Kölnisch Wasser (the original eau de Cologne) remains the official designation of origin for the distinctive toilet waters created in the city of Cologne. . stocks a large selection of art postcards and greeting cards. and French. jammed every day except Sunday with shoppers. and the big department stores. fruit sellers. sells unusually decorated and comfortable felt slippers and those enormous Überpantoffeln you slip over your shoes and slide around in when touring German palaces. To find out what’s going on in the city. carries a huge selection of umbrellas. The smallest bottle costs about 5€ ($6. the main north–south street in Roman times. pick up a copy of Monats Vorschau (1. Roncalliplatz 4.koelnticket. sells the orange-and-lavender-scented water first developed in Cologne in 1709 by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina. www. 4711. is now Cologne’s busiest commercial drag. 4711 Haus.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 379 Cologne from Cologne: No. On Hohe Strasse and its surrounding streets. Glockengasse 4711 (% 0221/925-0450.25). and even as premoistened towelettes. fine jewelry. Schildergasse is where you find international men’s musicians. German. Ehrenstrasse 104. as soap. Shopping in Cologne The first Füssgänger (pedestrians-only) shopping zones in Germany originated in Cologne and present a seemingly endless and interconnected conglomeration of shops and shopping arcades. and Filz Gnoss. Discovering nightlife in Cologne One of Germany’s major cultural centers. Three specialty shops worth knowing about: Schirmbusch. stores selling silver. Cologne offers a variety of fine arts and nightlife options. You can buy 4711 cologne in all sizes and shapes. fine leather bags and purses. snack shops. organ grinders. Apostelnstrasse 21 (% 0221/257-0108). U-Bahn: Neumarkt). The Mühlens family. and endless stores. another early producer of Kölnisch Wasser. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). The street number eventually became the trademark name for their product.” or simply “cologne. You can purchase tickets at a venue’s box office (Kasse) or at Köln MusikTicket. Walter König’s Postkartenlade. Breite Strasse 93.50€/$2) at newsstands). also lived and worked in this house at no. 4711 Any kind of toilet water is now called “eau de Cologne. you find all the major international designer-clothing boutiques. Hohe Strasse. and perfumeries.

a gay leather bar in the Marienplatz area. Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal. U-Bahn: Neumarkt).koelner-philharmonie. The most sophisticated rendezvous for gays and lesbians in Cologne is Gloria. is a small and intimate jazz and piano bar with live music every night beginning around 8 p.m. Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). Alter Markt 50–52 (% 0221/258-2132. to 1 a. Live bands and DJs play for dancers at MTC.m. The bar is open daily from noon to midnight during the week and from 11 a. Schanzenstrasse 28 (% 0221/962-790. Apostelnstrasse 11 (% 0221/254-433. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/22128400. is best on Sunday. Dance programs also take place here. Stephansstrasse 4 (% 0221/238-730. is a combination disco–concert hall housed within a former electrical power plant. is the Rhineland’s leading opera house.m. to 1 a. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). Gay and lesbian bars Chains. according to the event. to 3 a.m.m. when the music begins at 3:30 p. Recorded music alternates with live acts. Jazz clubs Klimperkasten (also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon). open from 10 p. on the weekend. Buttermarkt 37 (% 0221/257-7931. each with its own performances and schedules.m. E-Werk is open every Friday and Saturday night at 10 is the home of two fine orchestras: the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra). Quo Vadis Pub. completed in the late 1980s. is the site of three theaters.m. open Sunday to Thursday from 9 a. a good gay bar for men and women. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1 (% 0221/2801. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/8400. to 3 a. Dance clubs E-Werk. The hall also presents pop and jazz programs. U-Bahn: Zulpicherplatz).m. U-Bahn: Keupstrasse). Tickets range from 11€ to 100€ ($14–$125). Friday and Saturday from 9 a. anywhere from 8€ to 80€ ($10–$100). is open from 10 p. to 2 or 3 a. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). www. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). The Schauspielhaus. with a cover of 4€ to 10€ ($5–$13). and . U-Bahn: Heumarkt).m. Zulpicher Strasse 10 (% 0221/170-2764. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).m.m.m.380 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Performing arts The Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). is near Marienplatz at Pipinstrasse 7 (% 0221/258-1414. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Ticket prices vary.

m. Prerecorded commentary in English plays on both of these sightseeing cruises. lasts until 1 a. For more information on Rhine River cruises.. The tour departs daily at 10:30 a.k-d. Frankenwerft 15 (% 0221/208-8318. and 6 p. rivercruises. KD (Köln–Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt). Purchase. Altstadt Päffgen. Heumarkt 62 (% 0221/257-7765. to midnight. and 8:20 p. The tavern is open daily from 10 a.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 381 Cruises along the Rhine Cologne is a major embarkation point for Rhine cruises. departing Mainz daily at 8:45 a. The round-trip cost is 46€ ($57)..m.50). with the legendary Lorelei rock and many hilltop castles. 2 p.m. The club doesn’t charge a cover. the cost is 9. The one-hour Panorama Rundfahrt (round-trip) is a pleasant way to see the stretch of Rhine immediately around Cologne.m. along with regional cuisine.m. Taverns Päffgen Bräuhaus. represented in North America by JFO Cruise Service. Beautiful Scenery The Mosel Valley. NY 10577 (% 800/346-6525). If you want to see the most scenic stretch of the Rhine. A daily Nachmittags (afternoon) cruise with Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) leaves at 3:30 p. serves its Kölsch brand of beer. and returns at 5:45 p. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). Friesenstrasse 64–66 (% 0221/135-461. The cost is 6. take one of KD’s daylong cruises between Mainz and Koblenz. or visit the company’s Web site at www. Kö is a scenic winegrowing region like the nearby Rheingau (see the “Sampling the wines of Rheingau” sidebar in this chapter). The tavern is open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to midnight. and 9:45 a. The club is also open for live jazz Monday to Saturday from 7 p. U-Bahn: Friesenplatz). and returning at 7:20 p. southwest of Cologne. www. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe... Even if you don’t have time for a long Rhine cruise. 2500 Westchester a 110-year-old tavern. to 2 a. you can enjoy a trip on the river aboard one of the many local boats.m.m. The KD ticket booth and boarding point is right on the river.m.m. Winding through the steep slopes of the Eifel and . with German dishes. The Mosel Valley: Great Wines. Seating is available indoors and out.m.m. noon.80€ ($12). offers boat tours of the Rhine from Cologne. also serves the local beer.80€ ($8. a short walk south from the cathedral.m.

contact the Cochem tourist information office. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). Touring the valley by boat or car If you’re headquartering in Cologne and want to enjoy a boat cruise down the Mosel River.m.m. to noon. fine wine. Endertplatz 1 (% 0267/60040. boats depart daily from Koblenz at 9:45 a. www. is open November through March. celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. a restored 11th-century castle at the top of the hill behind the town. to 5 p. Roman ruins. Monday through Thursday 9 a.. (See “The Mosel Valley” map in this chapter.m. The office also is open Saturday from May through August from 9 a.m. April through sails down the Mosel to Cochem.50) for adults and 2. and arrive in Cochem at 3 p.) The valley encompasses thousands of acres of vineyards. the Mosel Valley follows the course of the Mosel River (spelled Moselle in English) for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz.m. medieval castles. Cochem’s biggest attraction is Reichsburg Cochem (% 02671/255). Its beautiful scenery.50€ ($5. Stopping in Cochem About halfway down the Mosel River from Koblenz is Cochem. a full 10 percent of the national total. where the waters flow into the Rhine. Cochem is your best choice for an overnight stopover between Koblenz and to 5 p. The castle. arriving in Koblenz at 8 p.382 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hunsruck hills in the German state of Rheinland-Palatinate.m. From late April to late October. For information. and Sunday in July and August from 9 a. to 6 p. the easiest way is to take a train to Koblenz. Monday through Friday 9 a. Cochem is a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals..cochem. The A49 Autobahn runs between Koblenz and Trier.m.k-d.50€ ($3) for children and students. www. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and halftimbered houses make the Mosel Valley a prime area for exploration.m. Admission is 4.m. a medieval riverside town surrounded by vineyards. 51km (32 miles) southwest of Koblenz. the prettier A53 runs alongside the Mosel between Zell and Schweich. From there. The round-trip fare is 22€ ($28). The tourist information office. the most famous and photographed sight along the Mosel River. to 6 p. You can also reach Cochem by train from either of those cities. If you’re driving through the Mosel Valley. to 1 p.m. is open daily mid-March to November 9 a. begins the first week of June.m. and 2 to 5 p. The similar Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August.m. and Friday 9 a.m. . A return boat departs at 3:40 p. a boat operated by KD (% 0221/20881.m.

Try the trademark dish of fresh trout stuffed with herbs. and kept warm at your table with a hot stone.m. Main courses range from 15€ to 25€ ($19–$31). added a modern wing and became a hotel in 1960. and 6 to 9 p. buffet breakfast included. MasterCard. The half-timbered structure. and Visa are accepted. all contain shower-tub combinations. 56812 Cochem (% 02671/7059. All major credit cards are accepted.m. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. drive to Enterttal. originally built in 1332. A few of the rooms have four-poster beds. Rack rates range from 77€ to 115€ ($96–$144) for a double. and dine at Weissmühle im Enterttal. fax: 02671/4202). The restaurant is open daily from noon to 2 p. A creaking wooden staircase (you can also take the elevator) leads to most of the 35 rooms. Alte Thorschenke. Endertstrasse 1 (% 02671/8955). Brückenstrasse 3. . Diners Club.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 383 The Mosel Valley A61 Nürburg E RM Cologne 410 E31 AN Y Mendig Mayen Koblenz A48 E44 Berlin A1 G Area of Detail Gerolstein 410 Kelburg Daun A48 E44 Lahnstein Kaiseresch Burg Eltz Alken 49 Boppard Ulmen 257 Mosel Moselkern 327 A61 Cochem A1 49 Meisburg Beilstein Senheim Bullay E31 Alf Marienburg A60 53 Wittlich Bitburg 51 Zell Traben-Trarbach Simmern M osel Bernkastel-Kues 269 421 Gemünden XEM– EM URG RG E44 327 Morbach 269 0 10 mi Kirn 0 10 km 41 N Trier A1 Idar-Oberstein 270 41 420 Both a hotel and a wine restaurant. 1. baked. For a fine meal.6km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem.

. The wind-sheltered southern slopes of the Taunus range. The Rheingau wine district (see “The Rhineland” map p. conditions the Romans recognized as perfect for grape-growing. traditions. you sail through this scenic winegrowing region. Eighty percent of this wine comes from the Riesling grape. If you take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz (see the “Cruises along the Rhine” sidebar in this chapter). and other fruit trees and its sheltered sunny slopes covered with vineyards. 367) follows a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine west of Wiesbaden to the attractive Rhine-side town of Bingen. the B42 highway runs beside the river between Boppard and Eltville. get plenty of sunshine and comparatively little rain.384 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Sampling the wines of Rheingau The Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. and festivals. and wine fans consider Rheingau Rieslings to be among the best white wines made anywhere. is like a northern extension of Italy. cherry. with its almond. If you’re driving. The Rheingau wine grapes produce a delicately fruity wine with a full aroma. This part of the Rhineland not only turns out fine wines but has been fundamentally formed by the culture of wine. as reflected in its economy. Vineyards have produced wine here since Roman times. on the river’s northern bank. fig. the Rheingau’s unofficial capital.

Because the Frankfurt airport serves as the country’s main international hub. A very strong American presence exists in this city on the Main. cabaret.Chapter 20 Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Frankfurt ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Strolling through the Altstadt ᮣ Discovering Apfelwein. Today. . nearly 450 banks maintained headquarters here. great shopping. The huge symbol that stands on Willy-Brandt-Platz in front of the new opera house can be regarded as the city’s logo. Leveled during Allied bombing raids in World War II (WWII). (See the “Frankfurt am Main” map in this chapter. and the Central Bank of the EU. At last count. a small portion of Frankfurt’s Altstadt (Old Town) was lovingly rebuilt.) Frankfurt has been a major banking city since the Rothschilds opened their first bank here more than 200 years ago. a rich cultural life. Frankfurt definitely focuses on business. and more L ocated on the River Main. and a lively nightlife.000 American soldiers were stationed in Frankfurt until 1990. the most important meeting place in the world for the acquisition and sale of book rights and translations. cosmopolitan city. Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city. Besides being a muchvisited business center. and including the tallest building in Europe). many travelers get their first introduction to Germany in this city. the city is a tourist destination with fine museums and art collections. and sometimes called “Mainhattan” because of its skyscraper-studded skyline. home of the Bundesbank. a fact that helps account for all those designer skyscrapers (more than in any other German city. Nearly 40. The best known is the International Book Fair. Millions of visitors descend on the city during its trade shows in spring and autumn. But Frankfurt is first and foremost a modern. Frankfurt is the financial center not only of Germany but also of the entire European Union (EU). Germany’s central bank.

Ar n HAUPTBAHNHOF in Ma ze a rL nd . 4 r. Ma inz Str. Wolfg angst tra sse U Ba us GRÜNEBURGWEG 1 WESTEND Bock enh ei m er L and 3 str a ss e r. fenstr Gärtnerweg ESCHENHEIMER TOR Rothschild’s Rothschild Park Alte Oper An l ./ADICKESALLEE Berlin M i q u e l a ll e e U A di e c k e s A l le ene Eyss Ha nsa GERMANY ckst Frankfurt am Main Munich C ro n ste tten str.386 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankfurt am Main Hamburg MIQ. nstr. berge st angg Wo l f Gr ün ebu rg w eg urgstr. R r. Fri ed se ras Sc 14 e U en sb rü ck SCHWEIZERPLATZ . Beethove nstr. BH ocke nhe imer str. r. s se All ee U Mique l e alle er S tra GRÜNEBURG PARK Holzh rass e ausen str. HAUPTWACHE hst oc U Börse Gr. ss Willy-BrandtPlatz U THEATERPLATZ i s tr. str nu Tau tr. Senck Linde B o c k e nh e i m er lsso nde Me dts tr. Lei Fa pzi üc lk B re m g er e anlag Schumannstr. Freidb nFurste rstr. ke st r a l l ee ss e ra Grüneburgweg Siesn Feld bur gstr. U Kais er chen Mun tr. University enberg nstr. ayer st Stau . we ize rP l. Zeil TAUNUSANLANGE U J 7 u n g hof An der Hauptwache Ne ue MESSE W Güterplatz Goetheplatz 8 9 9 Str. ner erli bach B r au 10 12 11 es ten ds tra sse er Un te r ma inb r. ers Str. U 5 6 2 Guiollett str. ka i ai n MUSEUMSUFER Sch s Leu ch ne r te 17 16 Un rm M ha GUTLEUTVIERTEL t t s leu ai nk ai um 15 n ai B 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters 13 U N Ke i Information S-Bahn U-Bahn Station Güterbahnhof Oppenheim nn ed ya lle e Gu t er Fran z St HOLZHAUSENSTRASSE r.

and Tiger-Bistrot 24 Weinhaus Brückenkeller 23 Deutsches Architektur Museum 16 Deutsches Filmmuseum 17 Eschenheimer Tor 6 Eschenheimer Turm 6 Goethe-Haus S tralenberge 8 r str. as Ro ths rL d an str as se ACCOMMODATIONS M Der Messe 2 An Hilton Frankfurt 5 Hotel am Dom 26 Hotel Robert Mayer 1 Hotelschiff Peter Schlott 13 str er rg Bu Mozart 4 Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof 9 se rtm an -Ib ac hs tr. Palastbar. Fri e MUSTERSCHULE U E sc he n m hei er VILBELER S. Parad iesga Se eh o sse de ls w . Heinrich-HoffmanMuseum 3 Historisches Museum 10 Kaiserdom 20 Liebieghaus 14 Main Tower 7 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 18 Museum für Moderne Kunst 21 Römer and Römerberg 22 Städelsches Kunstinstitut/ Städtische Galerie 15 Struwwelpeter-Museum 19 Os t L a n d s t r a ss e U Hö he MARIANPLATZ W ald sc n Ha rg A lle e bs bu rg er Landwehr Al W Ha bs bu r he ac e sb Alle e t it lee Bu rg . p k ar str as se Anla Floberb rücke ge erm Ob n a n lage ds t ainbr. Obermainkai nem str.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 387 Nib U ADICKES/ NIBELUNGENALLE elun E c k enh ei m gen Alle e Ha NORDEND U Neuh ofstr. a W S Gr.-Miller Str. ann OSTHAFEN ATTRACTIONS Deutsch herr nufe Main r fs tra G erb ermühl str. Zoo rte n Rö db urg w./ ALTE GASSE U ie ile db r erg 25 stra er sse KONSTABLERWACHE 24 RathenauU Zeil platz Am T ie Lan r ga A LT S TA D T RÖMER 21 U B a tto n n stra sse se s t ra s 19 20 22 Ma i n K a i EisernerSteg ckWe r k t ma 26 Schöne Au ssicht 23 Oberm 18 Sach s e n h ä u s e r U fer olb rK lte tr. str Bethmann’s Bethmann Park Se Fr OSTEND all ee rg hm er idts t r. Rit te r gasse SACHSENHAUSEN Da rm s t ä d ter Landstrass e W en ai i Oste ndst rasse ra sse n So Oskar-v. ss e DINING eg Exedra 25 Haus Wertheym 12 Konditoriei Hollhorst 11 Main Tower Restaurant & Bar 7 Restaurant Français 9 Tiger Restaurant. ch ild Al GLAUBERGSTRASSE lee rg L a n d strasse al ee Se b ck ac he BORNHEIM MITTE U rs be l Saa HÖHENSTRASSE U Bornheimer Gü BORNHEIM lbu he nt d b e rger Bu s rg tr.

www.S.388 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting There All roads. Pittsburgh. you have many options from which to choose.m. including Atlanta. You find bus stops in front of Terminal 1 on the arrivals level and in front of Terminal 2 on Level 2. D. These two S-Bahn lines take you to Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) in about ten minutes. The airport has two railway stations. frankfurt-airport. Taking the train into the city The simplest method for getting into the city from the airport is by train. Hopping a bus into the city If you want to travel to the city center by bus. and Finanz Bank) with currency exchange windows. to 11:30 p. New York. Denver. Regional and local trains operate from the Regional Station directly below Terminal 1. Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (% 069/6901. and air corridors lead to Frankfurt. Portland (Oregon). S8 and S9 trains (direction Offenbach or Hanau) to Frankfurt’s city center depart about every ten minutes from the regional train station. If you fly into Germany from outside of Europe. (RMV are the initials of the public transportation authority. The long-distance AIRail Terminal links the airport to cities throughout Germany and neighboring countries. check when you purchase your ticket. and Canadian cities. Privately operated currency exchanges (Travelex is one) and ATMs are also there. Terminal 1 handles most European flights. . this airport serves more than 110 countries worldwide. They are marked: Einzelfahrt Frankfurt (single ticket to Frankfurt) and Tageskarte Frankfurt inkl. Terminal 1. Boston. Detroit. Dallas. including the trip from the airport). Toronto. Newark. Montreal. Chicago.25). A one-way ticket costs 5€ ($6. Tickets are available from the RMV ticket machines (with English translations) at the regional station and at the Deutsche Bahn (DB) Travel Center. Miami. rail lines. open daily from 6 a. Dresdner Bank. and Washington. Platform 1.) The RMV ticket machines have special fast-selection buttons for the S-Bahn journey to Frankfurt. in which you find many banks (Commerz By plane The city’s airport. Philadelphia. Terminal 2 handles international flights. Some airlines offer special shuttle-bus services to Frankfurt from the airport. Flughafen (a reduced-price one-day transportation ticket within Frankfurt. lies 11km (7 miles) from the city center. chances are you’ll land at the city’s airport. A people-mover system (called Sky Line) links the two airport terminals. and several carrental offices. SEB Bank. a bus terminal. Level 0 (% 069/691-844). with direct flights from many U. Europe’s busiest airport and Germany’s major international gateway.C.m.

Saturday and Sunday 9 a. Switzerland.m.50€ ($3. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. www.10). to 6 p.m. Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt The River Main divides Frankfurt. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. The huge. to 6 p. The Altstadt contains an even older section referred to as the Innenstadt. The A3 comes in from the Netherlands. and nightlife.m. From the west. to 4 p. Taxis are available in front of the terminals. the A60 connects with the A66. restaurants. is a residential and embassy quarter. Finding Information After You Arrive You find tourist information in two locations: ߜ Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof.m. and Bonn and continues east and south to Würzburg. For travel information. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861.frankfurt-tourismus. It was the only part of Frankfurt that was not destroyed during the WWII Allied bombing of the city.m.m. You find most of the historic sights and several museums in the Altstadt on the north bank. to 5:30 p. including schedules and fares.m. is open Monday to Friday 8 a. This office offers a hotel-booking service for 2..Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 389 Catching a cab into the city A taxi ride from the airport to the city center costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 20 minutes. modern Frankfurt Messe (trade-fair convention center) is considered part of the Westend. west of the which leads to Frankfurt. Cologne. Nürnberg. and Munich. The exclusive Westend district.m. ߜ Tourist Information Römer.bahn.m.. . www. The A5 comes from the northeast (Hannover) and continues south to Heidelberg and Basel. opposite the main entrance of the train station (% 069/2123-8800.. By train Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof is the busiest train station in Europe. to 9 p. You find currency-exchange windows and bank ATMs in the station. is open Monday to Friday from 8 a. de). Concentrated in the city center around the Altstadt are hotels. in the Altstadt.m. to 9 p. Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. opposite the main entrance (% 069/2123-8800).m. By car The A3 and A5 autobahns intersect near Frankfurt’s airport. Römerberg 27 (% 069/2123-8800). Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. with connections to all major German and European cities. or Inner City.

A one-way single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) within the city center costs 1. As you walk out of the station. The cost is 8€ ($10) for a one-day card and 12€ ($14) for a two-day card. costs 4.35€ ($1. the embankment along the river’s south side. administered by the RMV (Rhein-Main Verkehrsverbund. ߜ The Frankfurt Card. or a bus. Two special tickets help you save money on public transportation in Frankfurt: ߜ A