by Donald Olson

Plan your trip

For Dummies

Covering the most popular destinations in North America and Europe, For Dummies travel guides are the ultimate user-friendly trip planners. Available wherever books are sold or go to

And book it with
our online partner,

ߜ ߜ ߜ ߜ ߜ ߜ

Book airfare, hotels and packages Find the hottest deals Get breaking travel news Enter to win vacations Share trip photos and stories And much more, rated the #1 Travel Web Site by PC Magazine

™ to travel! The fun and easy way

Also available:
Alaska For Dummies Arizona For Dummies Boston For Dummies California For Dummies Chicago For Dummies Colorado & the Rockies For Dummies Florida For Dummies Los Angeles & Disneyland For Dummies Maui For Dummies National Parks of the American West For Dummies New Orleans For Dummies New York City For Dummies San Francisco For Dummies Seattle & the Olympic Peninsula For Dummies Washington, D.C. For Dummies RV Vacations For Dummies Walt Disney World & Orlando For Dummies

Also available:
England For Dummies Europe For Dummies Germany For Dummies Ireland For Dummies London For Dummies Paris For Dummies Scotland For Dummies Spain For Dummies

Also available:
Bahamas For Dummies Cancun & the Yucatan For Dummies Costa Rica For Dummies Mexico’s Beach Resorts For Dummies Montreal & Quebec City For Dummies Vancouver & Victoria For Dummies

Available wherever books are sold. Go to or call 1-877-762-2974 to order direct.




by Donald Olson

Germany For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http:// Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. . All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2007925980 ISBN: 978-0-470-08956-9 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the Author
Novelist, playwright, and travel writer Donald Olson is the author of the award-winning England For Dummies, London For Dummies, Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London, and Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria. Under the pen name Swan Adamson he has written the novels My Three Husbands — now translated into four languages — and Confessions of a Pregnant Princess (both published by Kensington, New York), as well as Memoirs Are Made of This (Hodder Headline, London). Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, National Geographic Books, and many other publications.

To Gary Larson, with thanks for his help in Germany and with life in general.

Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank RailEurope for its generous assistance.

Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Lindsay Conner, Production Editor; Amy Lyons, Development Editor Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Editorial Assistant: Melinda Quintero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard J. Pacifico Cover Photos: Front: Bavaria, Ramsau © Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Getty Images Back: © Frank Rothe/Getty Images Cartoons: Rich Tennant ( Composition Services Project Coordinator: Lynsey Osborn Layout and Graphics: Claudia Bell, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie D. Jumper, Melanee Prendergast Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: Aptara, David Faust, Cynthia Fields, Melanie Hoffman, Todd Lothery, Charles Spencer Indexer: Aptara

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a Glance
Introduction .......................................................1 Part I: Introducing Germany................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ....................................15 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..............................25 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ..............39

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ..............49
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................51 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ......................................................63 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ............................................71 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................82 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ......................90 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ......................99

Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........109
Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin ..................................................111 Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin........................................................139 Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North ................................................175 Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East....................................................................207

Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..........243
Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit ..........................245 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria................................................284 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights ....................................................311 Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers ................................................................337 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ................365 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros ..........385

Part V: The Part of Tens ..................................409
Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons......................411 Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ..............................415 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............420

Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................423 Index .............................................................433


..............................................................291 Augsburg .........................................................................................................................................................147 Potsdam ..............................................................................................287 Würzburg ..................................................323 Freiburg .....209 Dresden ...............................................................................................................................................................................................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber .....................329 Heidelberg .................................................................................................................275 The Romantic Road ..........................................................................................................................................................307 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ..............................................................................127 Tiergarten-Area Attractions ............................................Maps at a Glance The Regions in Brief ...371 The Mosel Valley................................................227 Weimar ........................................................................................................................................................................................................248 Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn ........................................................................................181 Bremen..................145 Berlin-Mitte Attractions ...........................................................................................124 Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................313 Lindau .....................................................................351 Nuremberg........386 Frankfurt U-Bahn and S-Bahn .......195 Lübeck ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................303 Garmisch-Partenkirchen ...............................................................................................................................315 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) ...............................................................339 Stuttgart ..........254 Central Munich Attractions......................................251 Central Munich Accommodations and Dining .........................143 Charlottenburg Attractions ...................................................................................................................369 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn ............225 Leipzig S-Bahn ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................169 Hamburg ........................................................................................................383 Frankfurt am Main ...............................................................................................321 Baden-Baden ................................................................................................271 The Residenz.................349 Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn...................367 Cologne ............................295 Füssen ..........................................................................391 ...268 Deutsches Museum .........235 Munich Neighborhoods ......................................................................211 The Zwinger.......................................................................................................................176 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn ............................................................................116 Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining ..............................355 The Rhineland ....................................................................27 Berlin Neighborhoods ........................................................................221 Leipzig ..................................................199 Saxony and Thuringia ..........................................


.................................................21 Movies ...................11 Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities ....29 Scheduling Your Time........31 ..................................................21 Books (fiction and nonfiction) .................................1 About This Book........2 Conventions Used in This Book .........................................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ..............................................................................................15 The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History................................6 Part I: Introducing Germany...........................................18 Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany .....................................................................3 How This Book Is Organized...............................11 Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces..............Table of Contents Introduction ......................................................5 Part V: The Part of Tens ..............30 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons ............... and Ballet.............15 Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture ...................................5 Icons Used in This Book................................................6 Where to Go from Here............................23 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ....................................................4 Part I: Introducing Germany .......................................... Opera..................................10 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes..........................................................................26 Savoring southern Germany.................................30 Traveling during high and low seasons .......................................................................................................28 Wending through western Germany..........25 Exploring eastern Germany ..............9 Discovering the Best Big German Cities......19 Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies...........13 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ..3 Foolish Assumptions .4 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ..........................................31 Watching those unpredictable skies ......12 Enjoying the Best in Classical Music..........................................................4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany .......................25 Discovering northern Germany ...............4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ............25 Going Where You Want to Be........................................................................

................. 3rd Edition Blossoming in spring .............................59 Charging ahead with credit cards............................35 May ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................36 August ......................................35 January.......................................................................................... West Side: Germany in Two Weeks ........................................39 East Side......33 Welcoming winter ......................58 Using ATMs and carrying cash...........................................33 Glowing in autumn........................................................................36 July..............32 Shining (and raining) in summer ........................................................................................64 Getting the best airfare .......................................37 November ........................................................................................39 Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week....................................................59 Toting traveler’s checks........................66 ..................................................41 Discovering Germany with Kids........................................63 Flying into other German airports.....47 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ......51 Lodging expenses ........34 Perusing a Calendar of Events.............................................................................................53 Sightseeing expenses ......................................63 Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where .......................................................................................38 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ..........................................................51 Planning Your Budget .........................................................60 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet .............................54 Shopping and nightlife costs ....35 June......................49 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ......45 Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers .......................................................................................................61 Taking Taxes into Account.....................................................35 February.......37 October ...............54 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun .................xii Germany For Dummies............63 Flying into Frankfurt ...65 Booking your flight online .............37 December................................62 A Tip about Tipping ...........36 September...................62 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ...........................................................................57 Handling Money ................................................................................................................................................................................................................51 Transportation costs.....................................................

.....74 Reserving your seat..................................80 Sailing through Germany: River Cruises ...................................................................................................................92 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors .......................92 ........................................................70 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ...............78 Following the rules of the road ..........................82 Finding the Place That’s Right for You .....72 Heading to the Hauptbahnhof........................................................91 Hiring a baby sitter in Germany................................................................................80 Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? ......76 Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe ...........................................84 Chain hotels................................................67 Traveling by train ..........................................................67 Arriving by boat .....................75 German rail passes: For Deutschland only...............83 Luxury hotels ..............86 Surfing the Web for hotel deals.......85 Pensions..84 Smaller independent hotels....................................................................................................................................72 Following basic training ............89 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ........................................86 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate........71 Weighing the Options: Train or Car? .....81 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations .......76 Touring by Car: Autobahns..................................................................................................................... bitte (please)................................................. Tankstellen........... and Benzin.74 Getting off on the right track.......68 Tour operators in the United States......................90 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families .............87 Reserving the best room.....................................90 Locating family-friendly businesses ..............79 Handling a roadside emergency....71 Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go.......84 Boutique hotels..............................................................69 Choosing a package tour .....................................75 Saving time and euros with rail passes..........................................................85 Guesthouses ..77 Taking the roads less traveled .........69 Locating airline and hotel packages..................................................................Table of Contents xiii Arriving by Other Means........................................................................................67 Joining an Escorted Tour ....77 Renting a car in Germany ...........................................................................................................................................................80 Fill ’er up.................................

...............................................................98 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details............................................................................................112 By train.......................94 Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair).....99 Applying for a U.....107 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ......................99 Applying for other passports .....................................................................xiv Germany For Dummies...................................96 Celebrating gay pride in Germany ..............................................S...................................................................111 Getting There..................................115 Orienting Yourself in Berlin ..................................................112 By plane .......................................................99 Getting a Passport.....115 Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) .....103 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail.............................................................. S-Bahn...............................................122 Driving a car ..........97 Researching German lesbigay life on the Web .....................123 The top hotels .................................................................................... bus..............122 Staying in Style .......... ......115 Introducing western Berlin..119 Getting Around Berlin....120 Taking a taxi..100 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance ..............123 Runner-up hotels ...................105 Going Wireless...............................................................................113 By car ....................106 Keeping Up with Airline Security .................................95 Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians .............................................................104 Accessing the Internet away from home ..... passport..................101 Staying Healthy When You Travel.120 Going public: U-Bahn..............................97 Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany.....................................................S.......................................109 Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin.............96 Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators.....................................................................................113 Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof...............................................114 Finding Information After You Arrive ............................................................. and Strassenbahn ...................................... 3rd Edition Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities ................................................130 .................................104 Using a cellphone outside the U...........94 Locating resources ....................................

....................................175 Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World .......................................................................................169 Finding tourist information .................................................180 Staying in Hamburg ..................................................................................178 Finding information ..................................................................................................... and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North.......139 Sightseeing in Berlin ..... Bremen...................................175 Getting there......................162 Finding out what’s happening ................................................................153 Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour..................................................159 Shopping for Local Treasures.........................................179 Taking a bus tour ....179 Orienting yourself ..................................................187 ..............................................................................160 Shopping in eastern Berlin ..............170 Discovering the top attractions ...............................................................................132 The top restaurants.................................................................................................................158 If you have one day in Berlin......179 Getting around Hamburg ...........................................163 Checking out the dance clubs and bars..........................................................................................137 xv Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin ..........Table of Contents Dining Out ...........................158 Following an Itinerary...................163 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music...............................................................................168 Getting there...157 Bus tours...........163 Getting tickets .......................................159 Shopping in western Berlin .................................................................................158 Boat tours .....................................140 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .......................157 Walking tours................159 If you have two days in Berlin ..........................................170 Dining at Sanssouci.....133 The best cafes .........................................................................................................................................................................................................184 Exploring Hamburg............141 Finding more cool things to see and do.....162 Discovering Nightlife in Berlin..........................................165 Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci ......................171 Fast Facts: Berlin ....159 If you have three days in Berlin ...........................172 Chapter 13: Hamburg.........182 Dining in Hamburg .......................139 Saving money with a museum pass..............................................

.....................................................................................................233 Getting there................. and Weimar: Jewels of the East.................................202 Walking through Lübeck ...........................................................210 Orienting yourself ...........................................................207 Dresden: Florence on the Elbe ...................................................................237 Exploring the Thuringian Forest ..........................................223 Getting there.......................................191 A Side Trip: Bremen ..............................221 Discovering nightlife in Dresden...............................................194 Finding information and taking a tour ................................................................................................................224 Finding information and taking a tour ....207 Getting there............................................................................................................232 Discovering nightlife in Leipzig.........201 Staying in Lübeck............................................................. 3rd Edition Shopping in Hamburg................................226 Staying in Leipzig ......................236 Exploring Weimar..........214 Exploring Dresden ....................................... Leipzig...................................240 ....................................................................................234 Finding information and taking a tour ..........................191 Living it up after dark in Hamburg..............................................194 Getting to Bremen.......................................................................210 Getting around Dresden.............................................................196 Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own ................222 Leipzig: City of Heroes..........212 Staying in Dresden ...........................198 Getting there....................................................................212 Dining in Dresden............................217 Shopping in Dresden .................201 Getting around Lübeck................200 Orienting yourself ......................................................233 Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment................................................................194 Exploring Bremen ..................................226 Dining in Leipzig.................................................................................................................234 Dining in Weimar..203 Chapter 14: Dresden..............................................200 Finding information and taking a walking tour ....................201 Dining in Lübeck ....................226 Getting around Leipzig ..........228 Exploring Leipzig .........210 Seeing Dresden by guided tour .....................229 Shopping in Leipzig ..xvi Germany For Dummies...............................234 Staying in Weimar ...........208 Finding information ...........................................................................194 Dining in Bremen.............................................

.....................................247 Getting Around Munich .............................................286 Dining in Würzburg................................243 Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit....................................286 Exploring Würzburg............................................................................................................................250 Catching a cab.........285 Getting there..........................290 Getting there.............288 Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg ........................................................................................................281 Fast Facts: Munich ..250 Using public transportation ..................280 Discovering Nightlife in Munich.......................................................247 Finding Information After You Arrive ................................................................................................................................................................................266 Sightseeing in Munich ................................................................................................................................................................................252 Runner-up hotels ..............................246 By car ...............................................292 .............................................................281 Checking out bars and clubs .............277 Seeing Munich by Guided Tour ..........................................................282 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria ....................................285 Würzburg: Franconian Fortress................................................................................................Table of Contents xvii Shopping in Weimar................247 Orienting Yourself in Munich.......286 Staying in Würzburg .................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories ....259 The top restaurants........................................245 Getting There..................................252 The top hotels .278 Shopping for Local Treasures.................................................241 Discovering nightlife in Weimar ....................................................................................246 By train..............................................286 Finding information ...281 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music.........284 The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria .......................241 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany.............................267 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .............................................................267 Finding more cool things to see and do.252 Staying in Style ............258 Dining Out ........................................246 By plane ........................................260 The best beer gardens .............................................................................................291 Finding information ...

....................299 Exploring Neuschwanstein ...296 Staying in Augsburg................292 Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber .............................................294 Getting there.............................................................................................................................................................311 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ...........304 Exploring Füssen....................305 Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen...................305 Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen......................................................................299 Exploring Hohenschwangau............312 Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau .........................311 Lindau: Sunny island charmer ........295 Finding information and taking a tour ....................294 Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg......302 Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road ......................306 Ascending the Zugspitze........305 Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen .............................. 3rd Edition Staying in Rothenburg..........................................328 .................294 Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance..xviii Germany For Dummies....................................................................302 Staying in Füssen ..308 A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles........................................................................................................................322 Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books...........................................299 Getting there.................................................................................................................................................297 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air .............320 Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town .......................................309 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights..........................304 Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze..........................305 Finding information ......................................................302 Getting there..........................308 Discovering the local nightlife ......................302 Finding information ......306 Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen .........................................302 Dining in Füssen ....296 Exploring Augsburg .............................292 Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber.................296 Dining in Augsburg ........293 Shopping in Rothenburg ......................305 Getting there..........................................................318 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest).......................................................................................................299 Finding information and buying tickets ..............................................................300 Dining near the castles.....................

.......................................................... Stuttgart.........................................................................................................357 Dining in Nuremberg .......................................................375 Shopping in Cologne....................338 Taking a guided tour..........350 Exploring Stuttgart .......................................................................................................................................................................350 Dining in Stuttgart....379 .......338 Orienting yourself .................Table of Contents xix Chapter 18: Heidelberg....368 Staying in Cologne .......................................................372 Exploring Cologne...................................................365 Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine .................................................................. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers....................................................................................................................................350 Finding information and taking a tour .............................................................................366 Getting there............366 Finding information .....................356 Staying in Nuremberg ...............................................................379 Discovering nightlife in Cologne ......................................................................................................................340 Getting around Heidelberg ...........................................................337 Heidelberg: Romance on the River ....................................................................354 Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth........................342 Exploring Heidelberg.356 Orienting yourself ..........................................................................................340 Dining in Heidelberg ...................................356 Getting around Nuremberg...................................................347 Living it up after dark in Heidelberg....................................................368 Getting oriented .............360 Shopping in Nuremberg ..........................355 Finding information and taking a tour ............340 Staying in Heidelberg......................358 Exploring Nuremberg ..........353 Shopping in Stuttgart ..............................................................................348 Getting to Stuttgart..........363 Living it up after dark in Nuremberg ..........................................................368 Getting around ......................344 Shopping in Heidelberg........................338 Finding information ..................................337 Getting there......354 Getting there....................363 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine .......347 A Side Trip to Stuttgart............................370 Dining in Cologne...............350 Stuttgart performing arts...........

................................................. Beautiful Scenery ...................................................................414 .........411 Basic Words and Phrases.............406 Checking out bars and clubs ...389 Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt..............................................................................................390 Using public transportation ..............................403 Department stores.........................................................................413 Time .......................................394 Sightseeing in Frankfurt ........................................................413 Seasons and Elements .........................................381 Touring the valley by boat or car ..........................389 Getting Around Frankfurt.................405 Raising the curtain on the performing arts ......................................................................................412 Directions..403 Porcelain ..........................................412 Days of the Week ....................................................412 Colors .........................................406 Fast Facts: Frankfurt ....................................411 Accommodations .............................................................................382 Stopping in Cochem ....390 Taking a taxi...............................................405 Discovering Nightlife in Frankfurt.....................................................................................388 By train................................................................................389 By car .......................................................................................................................397 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z ......................388 By plane ......................................................................................413 Transportation ....405 Having fun at a cabaret ..........409 Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons...........................392 Staying in Style ................................................................................................................................................................................398 Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour ................................................xx Germany For Dummies......389 Finding Information After You Arrive ..............412 Numbers...................413 Warning Signs ..........................................................392 Dining Out .........................................................................................................................................................................................................407 Part V: The Part of Tens ........ 3rd Edition The Mosel Valley: Great Wines.........................................................................385 Getting There............397 Walking through the city..................403 Shopping for Local Treasures...............................................412 Entertainment and Attractions ..................................382 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros.........

........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... Rothenburg .........428 Major hotel chains in Germany..416 Hotel Adlon Kempinski...420 Qualitätswein................................................................ Baden-Baden...................................................428 Where to Get More Information ............. Cologne....................420 Deutscher Landwein .................................................421 Auslese .............................................419 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............................................................................................................418 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München.422 Beerenauslese..............................................421 Spätlese ...... Berlin ....420 Deutscher Tafelwein .........................................418 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe.........................................422 Eiswein ...........................................418 Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz...........................................................429 Surfing the Net...........433 ...............................................................................................................421 Prädikatswein ........417 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ......................................417 Kempinski Hotel Bristol..........................422 Appendix: Quick Concierge .........................................................416 Excelsior Hotel Ernst.................415 Der Kleine Prinz..............................................................421 Kabinett ....422 Trockenbeerenauslese ........................429 Contacting regional tourist boards .......................417 Hotel Eisenhut............................................423 Fast Facts ................................................. Dresden ............430 Index ..............415 Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa.......423 Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites ......... Berlin ...........................................427 Major car-rental agencies operating in Germany............... Heidelberg ..................420 Tafelwein ....................................427 Major airlines serving Germany...................................................................Table of Contents xxi Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels .................... Nuremberg ............

3rd Edition .xxii Germany For Dummies.

where Bach conducted? Do you want to stroll down Frankfurt’s . In the southwest. the emphasis is on fresh seafood. Regional differences also extend to food and architecture. In the north. Dramatic regional differences exist in the German landscape. French cuisine is a major part of the dining scene. which shares a border with France. In the far north. So what cities. the largest church north of the Alps. answering that question isn’t always easy. the location of the country’s great ports. will dazzle your senses. the city where most Germans would live if they could? The great port city of Hamburg? The romantic university town of Heidelberg? Are there specific landscapes you want to see.Introduction S o you’re going to Germany. or specific attractions do you want to see? Berlin. In the west. you find a flat maritime landscape. or Leipzig. The sheer size of Cologne Cathedral. The sunny southwest is where you find the Bodensee. Situated in the very heart of Europe. where Goethe lived. every crag in the Rhine Valley seems to have its own romantic legend — or carefully tended vineyard. Germany stretches from the Alps in the south to Denmark and the Baltic and North seas in the north. Every city or region has its own version of sausage and its favorite local wines and beers. And how about other historic sites? Do you want to visit Weimar. with Luxembourg. and the Netherlands to the west and the Czech Republic and Poland to the east. France bounds Germany to the southwest. Discovering the special regional differences within Germany will help to deepen your understanding and experiences of the country. near Germany’s coastline. Drive or take the train a couple of hours east and you’re in the Bavarian Alps. The sober brick architecture that predominates in the far north gives way to exuberant baroque churches and palaces in the south. Wunderbar! But what parts of Deutschland (Germany) do you want to visit? Because of this country’s many offerings. Germany isn’t a huge country — on a superfast train you can buzz from Berlin in the north to Munich in the south in about seven hours — but exciting cities and scenic sightseeing possibilities pack the terrain. regions. and the forested hills of the scenic Schwarzwald (Black Forest). the exciting capital of a reunified republic? Elegant. such as the Bavarian Alps or the Rhine Valley? Did you know that one of the most beautiful scenic drives in Europe is along Germany’s aptly named Romantic Road? What castles and cathedrals would you like to visit? The fairy-tale castles built by King Ludwig of Bavaria are the most famous and popular attractions in Germany. fun-loving Munich. where the peaks are tipped with snow until May. Belgium. too. one of the largest lakes in Europe.

you can flip to the specific part you need or hone in on one specific chapter. I suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. 3rd Edition Zeil. of course. In this book. and wallet. I exclude places that other. editors. however. or a musttry walking tour. if you’ve already been to Germany and know the basics of international travel. But. If you’re new to this part of the world. I bypass places that are difficult to reach or of interest only to a scholar or specialist. you and Germany For Dummies can plan a wunderschöne Reise (wonderful journey).2 Germany For Dummies. is one of the great art cities of Europe. Your safety is important to us. Germany. as you can see. the busiest shopping street in Germany? Are you interested in seeing eastern Germany now that the border is open between east and west? The eastern city of Dresden. Together. About This Book This is a selective guidebook to Germany. so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Dummies Post-it® Flags As you’re reading this book. You can. In this guide. Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time — and this is especially true of prices. more exhaustive guidebooks routinely include. purse. From an enormous list of possibilities. all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. the overrated. and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. after all. I help you choose from among its many highlights to create the best trip for you. I chose only what I consider to be the best and most essential places for visitors. The author. Use Germany For Dummies as a reference guide. Germany has so much that is really worth seeing that you don’t need to waste your time with the second-rate. or the boring. Mark these pages with the handy Post-it® Flags that are included in this book to help make your trip planning easier! . Keep a close eye on your camera. has an embarrassment of riches. start at the first page and read all the way through to the end. this guidebook is for you. you’ll find information that you’ll want to reference as you plan or enjoy your trip — whether it be a new hotel. Therefore. a must-see attraction.

followed by an English translation. year-round) or a meal at a restaurant (appetizer. I also provide a phonetic pronunciation.25. The exchange rate used throughout is 1€ = $1. Foolish Assumptions I make some assumptions about you. restaurants. and dessert). Take a look at the following list for an explanation of each: AE: American Express DC: Diners Club DISC: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa I also include some general pricing information to help you decide where to unpack your bags or dine on the local cuisine. the currency that replaced the Deutsche Mark in 2002. Check out the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ Hotel $125 and less $126 to $175 $176 to $225 $226 and more Restaurant $20 and less $21 to $30 $31 to $40 $41 and more Prices in this guide for hotels. . and services are given in euros (€). and then converted into dollars. If the word is one that you may be using. I include abbreviations for commonly accepted credit cards. entree.Introduction 3 Conventions Used in This Book I recently tried to extract some information from a guidebook and felt that I needed training in hieroglyphics to interpret all the different symbols. including: ߜ You may be an experienced traveler who hasn’t had much time to explore Germany and wants expert advice when you finally do get a chance to enjoy that particular locale. The use of symbols and abbreviations is kept to a minimum. attractions. lieber Leser (dear reader). In addition to giving you exact prices. I first give the name of a sight in German. I’m happy to report that the user-friendly Germany For Dummies is not like that. I employ a system of dollar signs ($) to show a range of costs for one night in a hotel (double room.

The individual chapters help you decide when to visit and what to see. Part I: Introducing Germany This first part introduces Germany and gives you some excellent reasons for going there. ߜ You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available about Germany or that lists every hotel. from passports to buying medical insurance. or the Romantic Road — you can turn right to that part. All of the parts can be read independently. they provide information. so if you want to zero in on a specific city or area — Munich. travelers with disabilities. wine.4 Germany For Dummies. The first two parts deal with trip planning and organization. and beer. Germany’s capital and most exciting city. 3rd Edition ߜ You may be an inexperienced traveler (but you’re definitely not a Dummkopf) who is looking for guidance when determining whether to take a trip to Germany and how to plan for it. If you fit any of these criteria. seniors. advice. I also deal with pretrip loose ends. I talk about handling money and give you some sound advice on planning a realistic budget. gay and lesbian travelers. rental car) to use to get around the country and explains what kind of accommodations you can expect for your money. then Germany For Dummies gives you the information you’re looking for! How This Book Is Organized The book is broken down into five parts. tell you about German food. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany All you need to know about Berlin. provide a calendar of events. lay out your options for airlines and how to get the best airfares and book money-saving package tours. Instead. This part helps you to decide what form of transportation (train. The next two parts of the book are devoted to the major sights and cities within northern and eastern Germany and western and southern Germany. say. and explain the kinds of guided tours that are available. This overview gives you the big picture. Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany This part helps take some of the wrinkles out of the trip-planning stage. restaurant. or attraction. I point out the best hotels and restaurants and the top attractions to the . and Jewish travelers. you’re looking for a book that focuses on the places that will give you the best or most unique experience in Germany. is contained in this part. I provide special tips for Germany-bound travelers who may have special needs or interests: families. and present you with some possible itineraries. and suggestions that can help you map out a wonderful holiday. Along with providing a basic orientation. I help you to understand and deepen your knowledge of the culture.

” I tell you how to take a boat trip from Dresden into a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland. and sights I want you to know about. and ten things to know about German wine. I also include a description of the memorial at Buchenwald concentration camp near Weimar and an overview of touring options in the Thuringian Forest. a picturesque city of Gothic church spires and ancient brick buildings. I also include an easy trip to Nymphenburg Palace and the moving memorial at Dachau. plus a selection of great hotels and special restaurants.Introduction 5 east and west and all around this remarkable city. and down the equally picturesque Mosel River. topics. I provide information on how to get there. I hit the Hamburg highlights. ten great hotels. gets a chapter of its own. In this part. one of Germany’s most attractive cities. Frankfurt. Germany’s “secret capital” and most popular big city. with an additional side trip to Linderhof. the region’s cultural capital. Northern Germany. I also visit the great eastern German cities of Dresden. You find plenty to see and enjoy in “Mainhattan. these remarkable showcases of art and culture are now “open for business. one of Germany’s principal winegrowing areas. and Nuremberg. My “tens” include ten lessons on the German language. From the southwest I head farther north. including the palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam. I cover three important cities in southwestern Germany: Heidelberg.” as Frankfurt is known. Staying south but moving west. with the oldest university in Germany and the brooding ruins of a mighty castle. how to get around. and what to see. to the lively Rhine-side city of Cologne. with the busiest international airport in Germany. Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Munich. King Ludwig of Bavaria’s fairytale castle in the Bavarian Alps. and Weimar. . Germany’s largest port city. Here I describe the principal cities and attractions found along the Romantic Road. gets a big chapter of its own. another castle-fantasy of King Ludwig. with its castles and vineyards. Sidetrip options from Cologne include boat rides down the mighty Rhine. bordering on the North Sea and the Baltic. I also introduce you to the Bavarian towns of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. a scenic driving tour that begins in Würzburg and ends at Neuschwanstein. from the mighty harbor to the lurid Reeperbahn (where uncoverage may better describe the sights). is also where you find Hamburg. with its world-famous cathedral and array of first-class museums. and Bremen. Difficult to visit during the Communist years. a bustling city that offers an array of historic sights. from designer skyscrapers and great museums to distinctive applewine taverns. Part V: The Part of Tens The Part of Tens enables me to focus a little more attention on extraspecial places. The next chapter goes beyond Munich but stays in Bavaria. Then I tell you about side-trip options from Hamburg: Lübeck. Stuttgart. Leipzig.

All this is followed by a few helpful worksheets to help make your trip planning easier.6 Germany For Dummies. you find six different icons. This icon points out tidbits about German culture. restaurants. and nightlife. and places of special interest. shopping. restaurants. I’m not an alarmist. Or you can start anywhere in between and extract information as you want or need it. The Tip icon highlights useful bits of information that can save you time or enhance your travel experience. You can start at the beginning and read the book straight through to the end. 3rd Edition Easily found on the yellow pages at the back of this book is a Quick Concierge Appendix with an A-to-Z list of fast facts. which is sure to be wunderbar. or attractions that welcome children or that kids actually enjoy. I’m not cheap. and hotel chains serving Germany. I want you to be aware of something such as a scam that can cost you money. too. of course! How you want to use this guide is up to you. so you won’t find too many of these icons. I hope you’ll think of me as your guide or companion on this journey to Germany. you also find a list of toll-free telephone numbers and Web sites for airlines. car-rental agencies. Icons Used in This Book In the margins. and I suspect it may be yours. but I love to save money. You see this icon every time I tell you about something that can save you cash. The Best of the Best icon highlights the best the destination has to offer in all categories — hotels. Traveling with children? Keep your eyes peeled for this icon. as well as resources for locating additional information on specific cities or areas. A Tip icon alerts you to something that you may not otherwise consider or even know about. Where to Go from Here To Germany. which points out hotels. or a hazardous situation. . like how the telephone system works and what numbers to call in an emergency. little pictures that point out helpful trip-planning details or items that are just for fun. Bargain Alert is my favorite icon. In this appendix. If you do see one. personalities. activities. attractions.

Part I Introducing Germany .

W In this part . In Chapter 3. here to begin? This part lays the groundwork for your trip to Germany. In Chapter 4. Chapter 2 helps you to understand the country and its culture by giving an overview of its history. . the most scenic landscapes. . . and the most interesting attractions. and a list of recommended books and movies. I present four possible itineraries for visitors who want to sample a wide range of sights. I tell you more about the places included in the book and discuss scheduling your trip so you can decide where and when to go. Chapter 1 introduces you to the best Germany has to offer — the most exciting cities. an introduction to its architecture and cuisine.

Chapter 1 Discovering the Best of Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Experiencing the greatest cities ᮣ Exploring romantic landscapes ᮣ Discovering legendary castles and palaces ᮣ Visiting smaller towns and cities ᮣ Enjoying world-class classical music. and conversation are afternoon staples. have German ancestors. a symphony orchestra. This land of contrasting cities. You’ll find as many different reasons to visit Germany as there are tourists who arrive daily. making a visit to Germany a feast for those who enjoy world-class art and music. or a giant beer hall with an oom-pah-pah band — and you want to check it out for yourself. not only in large cities like Berlin and Munich but also in smaller university towns like Cologne. cake. Munich. Perhaps you. and Heidelberg. or Berlin. will find that the club/bar/disco scene in Germany is hot. Or perhaps you have an image of Germany in your mind — a castle on a hilltop. and moods appeals to visitors for many different reasons. In the categories that I outline. and you want to explore their home turf. a tradition that dates back hundreds of years. This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the “Best of the Best” — that Germany has to offer. you’ll find some of the things that make traveling in Germany such a fascinating experience. Munich. landscapes. the main squares in Germany’s smaller cities glitter and glow with the lights. opera. at the airports in Frankfurt. I discuss each of these places . and ballet G ermany holds a special fascination for travelers. And don’t forget the retail: Great shopping opportunities abound year-round in Berlin. by the thousands. like millions of others. and gift stalls of Christmas markets. Clubbers. and an opera house. Hamburg. and Cologne. Some visitors come for the chance to drink fullbodied German beer. food. Then there’s the culture: Every midsize-to-large German city has at least one art museum. a palace in a landscaped garden. too. others come to enjoy a cosmopolitan cafe culture where coffee. During the Christmas season. Leipzig.

Cologne’s carnival is the biggest and brashest in the country. too. bustling pedestrian-only quarters. you can easily reach it all by subway. riverside promenades. You’ll also find elegant boulevards. and its vibrant contemporaryarts scene gives it a hefty dose of sophistication. sophisticated. ߜ With its endlessly dramatic history and cache of cultural and artistic riches. marked with — what else? — a “Best of the Best” icon. cuisine of all kinds. But since 1989. and Rhine-side setting. . including a fine lineup of museums and great shopping on Germany’s busiest shopping street. fascinating architecture. streetcar. The old capital of Saxony is where you find the worldfamous Zwinger palace/museum complex. Germany’s largest city and new capital has become an international superstar. ߜ Munich (Chapter 15) is a southern German city where the urban pleasures are as soft and sweet as Schlagsahne (whipped cream) on a rich slab of cake or as exuberant as an oom-pah-pah band in a giant beer hall during Oktoberfest. or bus. is one of the most attractive and intriguing cities in western Germany. the riches of the Green Vault. you can find them in their indicated chapters. ߜ Dresden (Chapter 14) reigns as the treasure house of eastern Germany. ߜ Hamburg (Chapter 13). and fun-loving. The pulse of Berlin is felt throughout Europe. And thanks to Germany’s excellent public-transportation systems. the Kurfürstendamm and Unter den Linden. great shopping. You’ll find world-class museums. Germany’s third-largest city after Berlin and Munich. The capital of Bavaria is sensuous. and when you’re walking down Berlin’s two most famous avenues. The “Queen of the North” presides over a beautiful setting on the Alster Lake but is notorious for her erotically charged entertainment district called the Reeperbahn. the Zeil. enormous parks and green spaces. ߜ Cologne (Chapter 19). and the reconstructed Frauenkirche. ߜ Frankfurt (Chapter 20). Discovering the Best Big German Cities Germany’s top cities offer a wealth of diversions. you’ll feel it. as simple or as sophisticated as you want. Berlin (Chapters 11 and 12) always has a major-league buzz. with countless cultural diversions and a kind of urban magic that snares the hearts of millions of visitors each year. and plenty of picturesque corners just waiting to be discovered. music. with its bevy of designer skyscrapers. with its soaring cathedral. when the wall separating East Germany and West Germany came down. yields plenty of pleasant surprises. Germany’s most amazing architectural reconstruction effort.10 Part I: Introducing Germany and experiences in detail later in this book. and plenty of nightlife. has the liveliness and lustiness of a big port and the sophistication of a wealthy European metropolis. first-rate museums.

and car. hiking trails. dukes. where you find lakes. . ߜ Cruises down the mighty River Rhine (Chapter 19) take you past castle-crowned crags and legendary sights. princes. and vast estates. ߜ The Rheingau wine district (Chapter 19). ruled over by an assortment of kings. such as Lorelei rock. ߜ With its fruit trees and vineyards growing on sunny. rocky cliffs along the Elbe in the east. As a result. with semitropical gardens and an almost Italian languor. where rocky cliffs rise dramatically above the Elbe River. both great and small. sheltered slopes. medieval castles.000 years. found along a lovely 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine. ߜ The Romantic Road (Chapter 16) is the most romantic byway of all. ߜ The Bodensee (Chapter 17). and from the winegrowing Rhine Valley in the west to the high.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 11 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes Landscapes of fabled beauty and scenic splendor are found throughout Germany. between Trier and Koblenz. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. has been a wine-producing region for upwards of 2. is like a northern extension of Italy. and prince-bishops. is a scenic winegrowing region encompassing thousands of acres of vineyards. Roman ruins. and all of them open to the public. ߜ The Mosel Valley (Chapter 19). ߜ From Dresden you can easily explore a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland (Chapter 14). west of Mainz and Wiesbaden. From the majesty of the Bavarian Alps in the south to the sandy beaches of the Baltic Sea in the north. Germany is loaded with a fascinating collection of castles and palaces. the Zugspitze. from Koblenz south to Alsace. boat. is like a bit of the Mediterranean. ߜ Perhaps the most dramatic of all German landscapes is the Bavarian Alps. an enormous lake near Germany’s sunny southwestern border. Germany was a conglomeration of regional kingdoms. and scenic lookouts. offering a remarkable medley of small medieval towns set within a gorgeous Bavarian landscape of river valley and mountain meadow. The country’s highest mountain. and views of them are accessible by train. Germany offers a wealth of sightseeing possibilities. the Rhine Valley (Chapter 19). ߜ Sophisticated health spas and recreational activities abound in the forest-clad mountains of the Black Forest (Chapter 17). Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces At one time. many of them full of art treasures. towers above the alpine resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Chapter 16). duchies.

ߜ A palace that doubled as a fortress. You can easily visit Sanssouci and its beautiful grounds on a daytrip from Berlin. So many architectural gems are located here that the entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a place judged . and furniture. Brimming with the flavors of the past. ߜ Sanssouci (Chapter 12). the Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) is famed for its superb ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo. ߜ Perched on its crag high above Heidelberg. is remarkable. ߜ For many visitors. ߜ Nymphenburg Palace on the outskirts of Munich is another kingsize showplace and so is the gigantic Residenz. Neuschwanstein and Linderhof (see Chapter 16 for both) are preserved almost exactly as they were during Ludwig’s lifetime. ߜ Used by the powerful prince-bishops until 1806. right in the heart of the city (see Chapter 15 for both). in part. the amazing Zwinger Palace in Dresden (Chapter 14) is now an unparalleled showcase for old master paintings and porcelain treasures. lovely Lübeck (Chapter 13) epitomizes the maritime culture and redbrick architecture of northern Germany. featuring brilliant Renaissance-era woodcarvings by Tilman Riemenschneider. many of them located less than an hour’s train ride from a major metropolis. over-the-top opulence. nothing can compare to the fairy-tale castles built in the 19th century by Ludwig II of Bavaria. Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities Germany is remarkable for its attractive smaller towns and cities. ߜ Carefully reconstructed after WWII. the quintessential image associated with Germany is a castle on a hilltop. the Marienburg crowns the vineyard-covered slopes above Würzburg and today houses the Mainfränkische Museum (Chapter 16). porcelains. these stately homes reveal aspects of German life and the monarchy that lasted up until 1918. Heidelberg Castle (Chapter 18) suffered from war and fire. find castles scattered throughout the country. With their precious paintings. ߜ An easy daytrip from Hamburg. but it remains an impressive sight even in its semiruined state.12 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to several museums and staterooms that can be visited on guided tours. scattered like gemstones around the country. Ruined castles dot the landscape of the Rhine (Chapter 19) and enhance its romantic appeal. Frederick the Great’s 18th-century rococo palace in Potsdam. because it suffered almost no damage during World War II (WWII). You do. indeed. you can easily savor them as daytrips. you’ll find a very different Germany. ߜ For sheer. In these historic hamlets.

This small. ߜ Weimar (Chapter 14). Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) offers an extraordinary range of spa treatments during the day and elegant gaming rooms at night. ߜ One of the most sophisticated spa towns in Europe. . The garden-island of Mainau is a short ferry ride away. unspoiled hamlet was home to Goethe and Schiller. Remnants and reminders from both eras are plentiful in Nuremberg. including Renaissance-era palaces and the oldest almshouse in Germany.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 13 to be of exceptional cultural value. a major highlight along the Romantic Road. Augsburg (Chapter 16) is full of historic panache and architectural surprises. a 40-minute train ride from Heidelberg. enchants visitors with its romantic setting. historic streets. Füssen (Chapter 16) invites you to stroll along its cobblestone streets past stone houses and a rushing mountain river. intriguing architecture. You can walk along the old city walls of this perfectly preserved gem and stroll down streets that haven’t changed much in hundreds of years. according to the United Nations agency that promotes education and the arts. and ballet will find that Germany is a gold mine. an old university town on the Neckar River. opera. ߜ Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Chapter 16). Enjoying the Best in Classical Music. including grand opera. ߜ Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is an important center of the German Renaissance that later became an infamous locale for huge. Tickets for musical events. Opera. flower-filled charm that’s perfect for lazing away a day or two. is a walled medieval city loaded with picturesque charm. was a cradle of the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. ߜ Lindau (Chapter 17). ߜ A stop on the Romantic Road or an easy daytrip from Munich. Naziera rallies. and the quality of musical performance is extraordinarily high. ߜ Located in the Bavarian Alps near Neuschwanstein Castle. and Ballet Lovers of classical music. and provides a glimpse into 18th-century German life and culture. is the arts and culture capital of southwestern Germany. has a sunny. a marvelous little island-city in the Bodensee (Lake Constance). with major art collections. ߜ Heidelberg (Chapter 18). among others. ߜ Stuttgart (Chapter 18). one of the most attractive midsize German cities. and the second-largest beer festival after Munich. and enormous castle. are reasonably priced. in eastern Germany.

while the magnificent Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra) performs in the Philharmonic Hall. as does the Frankfurt Philharmonic. . ߜ The Stuttgart Ballet in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) hit international stardom in the 1970s when John Cranko took over the company. one of the world’s great opera houses. ߜ Up north. and so does the Staatsoper (State Opera). Leipzig celebrates its most famous citizen — the composer Johann Sebastian Bach. Cologne (Chapter 19) has an amazing array of musical offerings. the brilliant Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) shares the National Theater stage with its ballet company. ߜ In Munich (Chapter 15). and three opera houses that share their stages with resident ballet companies. the Hamburg Ballet. and two fine orchestras — the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker (Cologne Philharmonic) and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra) — perform in the Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. who lived and worked in the city for more than 40 years — with the yearly Bachfest. ߜ A visit to Dresden (Chapter 14) can be made even more memorable by an evening at the Semperoper (Semper Opera House). the Rhineland’s leading opera house. ߜ Opera Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt gives a big musical boost to Frankfurt (Chapter 20). ߜ The city of Leipzig (Chapter 14) is home to the world-renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra and the acclaimed Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera). or hearing a concert by the Dresden Philharmonic. conducted by Sir Simon Rattle. Hamburg (Chapter 13) plays host to the Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). but the company still performs at the State Theater.14 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to three major symphony orchestras. including the famed Berlin Philharmonic. Major artists appear at the Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). one of the great cultural centers of Germany. ߜ For a city of its size. and three highly-regarded orchestras. Cranko is gone.

quick sense of the major epochs. Mainz. and Trier. the Roman sphere of influence extended well into the borders of present-day Germany.. Charlemagne (Karl der Grosse. I highlight the main architectural trends. Koblenz. beer. 768–814) was responsible for the earliest large-scale attempt to unite the lands of Germany under one ruler. Following the Roman withdrawal from Germany in A.Chapter 2 Digging Deeper into Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Perusing the main events in Germany’s history ᮣ Recognizing Germany’s architectural heritage ᮣ Discovering German food.D. How a civilized European nation slipped into the state of barbaric inhumanity that existed during Nazism’s rise and WWII is a question that continues to occupy historians and survivors and haunt the Germans themselves. I distill the essence of Germany’s complicated and tumultuous past so you can get a clear. the empire of the Franks represented the transition from a loose conglomeration of German tribes into what eventually would become the German Empire. 400. whet your appetite with a primer on German food and drink. The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History Germany’s long and tumultuous history remains clouded by the horrors of World War II (WWII). The following list highlights the main trends in German history: ߜ Early history: Prehistoric humans hunted in the Rhine and Neckar valleys of present-day Germany. . and recommend some excellent books and movies about Germany.D. with garrisons established at Cologne (Chapter 19). and wine ᮣ Finding books and movies about Germany T his chapter helps you find out more about Germany and deepens your experience of the country. By the first century A.

the Great War (1914–1918) represented a German attempt to dominate Europe. and philosophers ushered in the Age of Enlightenment. Under Frederick the Great (Friedrich der Grosse.” Berlin — capital of the republic — blossomed into Germany’s economic and cultural center. became first chancellor of the German Empire (Reich). .16 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ The Middle Ages: The power struggles and invasions of the Middle Ages continually disrupted the unity hammered out by Charlemagne. composers. the Catholic Church launched a Counter-Reformation that culminated in the bloody Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). various German tribal duchies sought to build their own autonomy. ߜ The Reformation. Prussia gained status as a great European power. the country’s military and political rulers were determined to return to a system of absolute monarchy. During this period. Napoleon occupied several German cities and abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. After defeating the Austrian and Prussian armies. and Napoleon: The 16th century was a time of social unrest and religious upheaval throughout Germany. An upswing in international commerce from the 11th to 13th centuries led to the foundation of “Free Imperial Cities” like Hamburg and Lübeck (see Chapter 13 for both). Military conflict on the eastern front resulted in the defeat of Russia. As Protestant Reformation spread. in 1871. the Austrian Hapsburg monarchy reimposed its sovereignty over Prussia and other parts of Germany. ߜ World War I and Weimar: For many observers. the Enlightenment. and until the demise of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. Although the war wasn’t fought on German soil. it resulted in severe food shortages throughout the country and intensified political unrest. 1740–1786). which was followed by the decisive Battle of Waterloo. Bismarck succeeded in winning over southern German states and. In 1813. In its attempt to establish a democratic and republican government. The question of independence and national unity finally came to a head in the 1848 revolution. During the “Golden Twenties. the so-called Weimar government (1919–1934) represented a break in dominant traditions of German history. Germany remained a collection of small principalities and free cities. Prussian. After triumphs in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871). and Russian armies fought the French emperor in Leipzig. while fighting on the western front ultimately led to German defeat and the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II. ߜ Revolution and the Reich: Following Napoleon’s defeat. Prussian statesman Otto von Bismarck (1815–1898) advocated consolidation of the German people under Prussian leadership. Because of the weakness of central authority. writers. Residual issues from war and hostility from conservative groups conflicted with reformist and radical impulses of the left and cultural avant-garde. When that effort failed. the works of German artists. Martin Luther (1483–1546) battled against the excesses of the Catholic Church. Austrian. and his work had far-reaching implications. pitting the Protestant north against the Catholic south and affecting the whole of Europe.

At the end of the war. In 1948. which continued until 1949. fled the country to escape persecution. northwest of Munich. economic. and other groups that were murdered by the National Socialists between 1933 and 1945. ߜ The two Germanys: Intending at first to govern conquered Germany as one unit. Two Germanys developed with highly different political. and Dachau (Chapter 15). The Federal Republic of Germany in the western half of the country had its capital in Bonn. the war’s victors divided it into two states as the Cold War intensified. In 1961. the Berlin Wall was constructed. and imperialistic attitudes also provided a ripe environment for the National Socialist Party to take control. in German). thousands of German Jews. with its major cities in smoldering ruins. The Soviet blockade of West Berlin resulted in the Anglo-American Berlin airlift.S. You can also visit the courtroom in Nuremberg where Nazi officials were tried after the war. ߜ Germany reunited: The opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989 marked for East Germany the culmination of a wave of previously . nationalistic. In Nuremberg (Chapter 18). sealing off East Berlin from West Berlin. ߜ The rise of Nazism and World War II: Economic crisis in Germany was a major factor in the rise of the Nazi movement. Berlin (Chapter 12) is particularly rich in memorials commemorating the hundreds of thousands of Jews. In Berlin. See Chapter 12 for information on walking tours that focus on Berlin’s Nazi and Jewish histories.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 17 Remembering the Nazi-era past Germany’s Nazi-era past and the enormity of crimes committed during World War II are facts that can’t be glossed over or overlooked. and politicians. but old authoritarian. walking tours take visitors past Nazi-era buildings and exhibits that interpret Nazi methods. scientists. gays. near the eastern German town of Weimar. West German recovery got underway with U. including many prominent artists. Germany ceased to exist as an independent state. As the brutal anti-Semitic political agenda of Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) became apparent. the most comprehensive of its kind. assistance in the form of the Marshall Plan. and the Soviet-ruled German Democratic Republic (GDR) in the eastern half had its capital in East Berlin. Germany’s Jewish past is the subject of Berlin’s remarkable Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). the site of Nazi-architect Albert Speer’s enormous Congress Hall has been reclaimed as the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Rally Grounds Documentation Center) with a brilliantly informative exhibit that chronicles the rise and fall of the National Socialists. Gypsies (Sinta. Millions of Jews and other “undesirable” minorities throughout Germany and the rest of Nazi-occupied Europe were systematically exterminated in one of the most horrifying chapters in world history. The most wrenching memorials of that gruesome chapter of German history are the concentration camps Buchenwald (Chapter 14). and social systems.

Renaissance architecture was imported from Italy into southern Germany. A simpler and more monumental kind of Gothic architecture. thick walls. is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Germany. a building style adapted from much earlier Roman models. The baroque flourished in Catholic. particularly in Cologne (Chapter 19). Munich (Chapter 15) abounds in the baroque. and classical decoration over windows and doors. ߜ Baroque (17th–18th centuries): A decorative exuberance in curvy baroque architecture sets it apart from the more sober Renaissance style. with pointed arches. predominates in northern Germany in cities such as Lübeck (Chapter 13). built from 1045 to 1188. Stalinist government of the GDR. soaring vaults and spires. built of brick. but the overall devastation affected nearly the entire country. ߜ Renaissance (late 15th–17th centuries): Augsburg (Chapter 16) is one of the best cities in Germany to see Renaissance architecture. and enormous windows. such as the medieval towns along the Romantic Road (see Chapter 16).200 years of architectural history and were created in a number of different styles. In 2006. In 1991. . orderly repeating lines. Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture Buildings that you can visit on a trip to Germany span some 1. Kilian in Würzburg (Chapter 16). Counter-Reformation areas in the south of Germany. The Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) and palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam (Chapter 12) are two of the best examples of baroque architecture in Germany. Reforms by Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev and underground. grassroots communication between citizens in East Germany led to massive demonstrations against the repressive. Bombing raids in WWII left much of the country’s rich architectural heritage in ruins. clear forms. Compared to Romanesque. this style is slender and daring. ߜ Gothic (13th–16th centuries): Cologne Cathedral (Chapter 19) is Germany’s greatest example of Gothic architecture. Many historic buildings are painstaking postwar reconstructions. Here are examples from around Germany of the major architectural trends: ߜ Romanesque (10th–12th centuries): Simple.18 Part I: Introducing Germany suppressed revolutionary sentiment across central and eastern Europe. Many interesting examples of Romanesque architecture are found in western Germany. Berlin was made the nation’s new capital. and rounded arches signal Romanesque architecture. Some areas escaped damage. a style characterized by calm precision. with East and West Germany united under one government. Angela Merkel became Germany’s first female chancellor. The Dom St.

and unappealing most postmodern buildings are.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 19 ߜ Rococo (18th century): Notch up the elements of baroque and you have rococo. ߜ Bauhaus (1913–1933): A rigorously modern style. Bauhaus was championed by Walter Gropius (1883–1969). The famous Mädlerpassage arcade in Leipzig (Chapter 14) shows Jugendstil influence. The Bauhaus style predominates in the Weissenhofsiedlung area of Stuttgart (Chapter 18). with many regional variations and specialties. where the architect Schinkel created a whole neoclassical avenue (Unter den Linden) and island of museums. created for a 1927 building exhibition. exemplified by curving walls and staggering amounts of gilded and stucco decoration. and it was most popular in Berlin (see Chapter 12). ߜ Modernism (1948 onward): A major housing shortage and rebuilding effort in bombed cities in Germany followed the devastation of WWII. It’s a simple. The school was banned by the Nazis because it didn’t promote “German-looking” architecture. and so do many houses in the Schwabing district of Munich (Chapter 15). This faux-medievalism is what Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein (Chapter 16) is all about. free of frills and unnecessary decoration. asymmetrical. who founded the Bauhaus school to create functional buildings and furnishings. James Stirling’s Neue Staatsgalerie in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) is a reminder of just how clunky. One of the most famous examples of flamboyant rococo architecture in Germany is the Wieskirche (Chapter 16) in Bavaria. ߜ Neoclassical/Neo-Gothic (mid 18th–19th centuries): The neoclassical style was meant to be a rebuke to the excesses of baroque and rococo. functional style with straight lines and square windows. ߜ Jugendstil (early 20th century): Jugendstil is the German name for Art Nouveau. ߜ Postmodernism (1980s onward): Postmodernism is a style practiced by architects who plunder the past and apply old styles to the buildings of today. As the century wore on. If you walk down the streets or pedestrian zones in just about any major German city. Bauhaus museums are in Weimar (Chapter 14) and Berlin (Chapter 12). Seasonal specialties include Spargel (white . you’ll see modernist buildings all around you. organic shapes. an early-20th-century European movement that emphasized flowing. neoclassicism gave way to the more ponderous Neo-Gothic style. Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany German cooking tends to be hearty and filling. uninspired.

can’t be poured in less than seven minutes to achieve the proper head. Malzbier. . Export. The range of beer varieties includes Altbier. Munich. you can taste about 150 different types of sausage. traditional cellar restaurants beneath a city’s Rathaus (Town Hall). and wine. so much so that the right to drink beer is written into some labor contracts. A German law adopted in 1516 dictates that German beer may contain no ingredients other than hops. To order a beer. and taste all contribute to a German beer’s unique qualities. The ratio of ingredients. aging time. or Pilsener. with tables set outdoors under trees or trellises. Weizenbier (vitsen-beer). The most popular beer in Germany is Pils. color. Ratskellers. for a small. Berlin.200 varieties of biscuits and cakes. Märzbier. Vollbier. and tell the waiter or tavernkeeper whether you want ein Bier vom Fass (fum fahss. and a beer with lunch in the factory cafeteria is taken for granted. alcoholic content. A proper draft beer. and Weizenbier. or standard beer) has 4 percent alcohol. with about 300 different types of bread and 1. Pils. especially in southern Germany. or ein Kleines (ine kly-nis). Matjes (white herring) in June and July. Pils. Kölsch. Erdbeeren (strawberries) in spring. brewed with darkly roasted malt fermented for a long period of time) or a helles Bier (light beer. malt beer) contains hardly any alcohol. always serve good and fairly inexpensive traditional food. and Reh (venison) in the fall. The traditional Biergarten (beer garden). brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery). or “March beer. made from wheat. followed by Export. Vollbier (foal-beer. When you order a beer in Germany. Sampling German beer Bier (pronounced beer) remains a vital part of German culture. you have many choices. yeast. beers are light and contain more hops. malt (barley). according to the Germans. Lager. from the barrel) or in a Flasche (flah-shuh. You ask for ein Grosses (ine grow-ses). The beer is always served cold. In the country as a whole. decide whether you want a dunkles Bier (dark beer. is still very popular.20 Part I: Introducing Germany asparagus) in May and June. in an appropriate beer glass or mug. Dark and sweet Malzbier (maltz-beer. and water. When it comes to baked goods — bread and pastries — Germany has more variety than any country in the world. brewing temperature and technique. beer. Bockbier. for a large. and Nuremberg all have their own special kinds.” is dark and strong. and Bockbier has 6 percent. A Bräuhaus (broy-house) serves its own brew along with local food. bottle). Forelle (trout) in the summer. but not too cold. is a Bavarian white beer. Export has 5 percent. with a long-lasting head of white foam. Märzbier (maertz-beer).

ߜ Before the Deluge: A Portrait of Berlin in the 1920s by Otto Friedrich: A fascinating portrait of the political. And German beers are legendary. Each city has its favorites. provide excellent accompaniments to any meal. Lübeck (Chapter 13). for example. the German tradition of afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is alive and well. too. past and present. this novel deals with the transition of a merchant family in Lübeck from 19th-century stability to 20th-century uncertainty. and in particular. mostly from grapes grown in the scenic Rhine and Mosel valleys (Chapter 19). Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies In the following book and movie lists. ߜ Bismarck by Edward Crankshaw: An objective and highly readable life of the first chancellor of the German Empire and a seminal figure in Germany’s Prussian past. German wines (Chapter 23). ߜ Billiards at Half-Past Nine by Heinrich Böll: A compelling novel by one of Germany’s best-known writers about the compromises made by a rich German family during the Hitler years. and Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is famous for its Lebkuchen (spice cakes). brilliant novel that examines the authoritarian cultures of 20th-century Germany and . personalities. ߜ Europe Central by William T. has increased dramatically during the past two decades. that can help you gain a better understanding of German history. and politics.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 21 Although not kind to the waistline. brewed right in the area. about WWII and the Holocaust. Books (fiction and nonfiction) The number of books written about Germany. Vollman: A bold. I attempt to provide a broad overview of Germany from many different perspectives and historical epochs. Look out for regional specialties. and social life of Berlin between the wars. cultural. is the capital of Marzipan (almond paste). ߜ Buddenbrooks by Thomas Mann: A classic of German literature. The books I’ve selected include many great German authors. ߜ Berlin Journal 1989–1990 by Robert Darnton: An eyewitness account of the events that led to the opening of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of East Germany’s Communist regime. ߜ Conversations with Goethe by Johann Peter Eckermann: Early19th-century Germany from the viewpoint of the most renowned German figure of the Enlightenment.

ߜ Germany 1866–1945 by Gordon Craig: One of the best single accounts of the turbulent political. ߜ Here I Stand: A Life of Martin Luther by Roland Bainton: A fascinating and meticulously researched account of the Protestant reformer.22 Part I: Introducing Germany Russia and creates a mesmerizing picture of life during wartime from many different perspectives. Holocaust. written by a Nobel Prize winner who kept his own Nazi past a secret until 2006. and patron of the arts. Maier: A study of German attempts to come to terms with the Holocaust and the recent controversy surrounding conservative attempts to downplay the historical . winner of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. ߜ My Life in Politics by Willy Brandt: The political memoirs of Willy Brandt (1913–1992). this powerful novel explores Nazism and its aftermath in the north German provinces. ߜ Frederick the Great by Nancy Mitford: Frederick. ߜ The Tin Drum by Günter Grass: Perhaps the most famous novel about life in post-WWII Germany. ߜ Hitler: 1936–1945: Nemesis by Ian Kershaw: Several good biographies about Hitler have been written. true stories of a handful of Jews who managed to remain in Berlin during WWII by hiding out in the homes of non-Jewish German friends. and chancellor of West Germany (1969–1974). scholar. including works by Robert Payne. ߜ Five Germanys I Have Known by Fritz Stern: The well-known historian chronicles the five distinct eras of Germany’s modern history that his Jewish family has experienced. ߜ The Last Jews in Berlin by Leonard Gross: Gripping. and economic life in Germany from the foundation of the German Reich through the end of the Third Reich. this easy-to-follow guide makes the task easier. musician. statesman. Konrad: If you’re interested in tracing your German roots. cultural. ߜ German Family Research Made Easy by J. ߜ A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain: Twain’s account of his travels in Germany is as fresh today as when it first was published in 1899. ߜ The Germans by Gordon Craig: A highly readable and knowledgeable portrait of postwar Germany. and John Toland. and German National Identity by Charles S. sketched with wit and humor. mayor of cold-war West Berlin (1957–1966). but Kershaw’s is one of the best. Joachim Fest. ߜ The Unmasterable Past: History. ߜ The German Lesson by Siegfried Lenz: A bestseller when it first appeared in 1971.

the powerful Nazi official who was subsequently executed for war crimes. this classic German silent movie used expressionist sets to create a tale of murder and madness. a gay man sent to Dachau concentration camp under the Nazi regime. ߜ Cabaret (1972): A musical based on Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories and set in Berlin at the brink of WWII. from learning that the wall has come down and Germany has been reunited. ߜ Goodbye. starring Marlene Dietrich as an amoral cabaret singer and Jean Arthur as a self-righteous U. ߜ Bent (1997): Movie adaptation of Martin Sherman’s powerful play about Max.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany uniqueness of the German genocide against Jews and other minorities. . ߜ Witness to Nuremberg by Richard Sonnenfeldt: The chief American interpreter at the war-crimes trials tell his story of dealing directly with Hermann Göring. the one who built Neuschwanstein. ߜ Ludwig (1972): Visconti’s turgid epic about the last king of Bavaria. My recommended list includes a selection of German and Germany-themed films available on VHS or DVD. WWII and the Holocaust have dominated the subject matter of recent films about Germany — so much so that German-made films about contemporary German life rarely get a showing outside of Germany unless they win a top prize at a film festival. Do as the Germans Do by Hyde Flippo: A short. entertaining crash course in German culture. 23 ߜ When in Germany. Lenin! (2004): A wry comedy about a young man in East Berlin who tries to keep his bedridden mother. ߜ The Cabinet of Doctor Caligari (1921): One of the earliest horror films. ߜ A Foreign Affair (1948): Billy Wilder’s cynically hilarious look at postwar occupied Berlin. and heritage. ߜ The Marriage of Maria Braun (1979): Hanna Schygulla stars as a woman married to a soldier in the waning days of WWII. startling. senator. Movies As with literature. and provocative. customs. a loyal Communist.S. ߜ The Blue Angel (1930): The film that shot Marlene Dietrich to international stardom remains stark. ߜ Berlin Alexanderplatz (1980): Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 15-part television adaptation of the novel by Alfred Döblin follows the life of a man released from prison between the two world wars.

in which the Workers plan a revolt against the aloof Thinkers that dominate them in a future dystopia. ߜ Triumph of the Will (1934): Leni Riefenstahl filmed the gigantic 1934 Nazi conference and rally in Nuremberg as “image-control” propaganda for the Third Reich. Lola.000 Deutsche Marks to save her boyfriend from being rubbed out by a gangster. Run (1999): Fast-paced twists and turns as Lola races desperately through Berlin seeking 100. ߜ Run. ߜ Olympiad (1936): Leni Riefenstahl’s super-Aryan take on the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin. .24 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Metropolis (1927): Fritz Lang directed this classic of German cinema. ߜ Wings of Desire (1988): An angel roaming the streets of Berlin and recording the angst and joy of ordinary life falls in love with a mortal.

For locations. This chapter points out highlights of each region and gives you the lowdown on the weather so you can determine the best destinations and time of year for your visit. too. historic towns. or avoid. Discovering northern Germany Northern Germany is a different world from southern Germany. special festivals and events. The food is plainer. The climate in the north. and scenic regions that Germany has to offer. 3rd Edition. and city in Deutschland. region. geared to savvy travelers who want to know more about Germany’s leading sights. You also find a calendar of events so you can time your trip to coincide with. Architecturally. often is wet or . and when do you want to go? In this chapter. is a selective guidebook. which is influenced by the North and Baltic seas. with an emphasis on fish. see “The Regions in Brief” map in this chapter. special sights.Chapter 3 Deciding Where and When to Go In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring Germany’s main points of interest ᮣ Scheduling your trip ᮣ Getting a grip on the seasons: Tourism and weather ᮣ Flipping through the country’s calendar of events hat do you want to see when you visit Germany. To figure out which regions to visit during your trip. I help you to narrow your focus so you can start planning your trip in earnest. the north’s sober redbrick Gothic churches and buildings lack the ornate baroque decorations found in the Catholic south. I don’t cover every state. W Going Where You Want to Be Germany For Dummies. only the essential highlights. My aim in this book is to introduce you to the best cities. check out the following thumbnail sketches and find details of the best places Germany has to offer in Chapters 1 and 2.

Dresden. turn to Chapter 13. is a major tourist attraction. top performing-arts venues. now a lively area with restaurants. an easy daytrip from Hamburg. you see examples of its 900-yearold history everywhere you turn. and bars. which houses an outstanding. You find comprehensive coverage of Berlin — including a daytrip to Frederick the Great’s charming. Lübeck. as some people claim? With world-class museums. has treasures beyond measure in the Zwinger Palace and the Residenzschloss.26 Part I: Introducing Germany misty. After Berlin and Munich (in the south). but some people believe the maritime atmosphere is part of its overall appeal. under the Communist regime of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). the Zeitgeschichtliches Museum (Contemporary History Museum) chronicles the history and artifacts of the GDR years. from the Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall) to the church spires that dominate the skyline. and the Museum of Fine Arts. It has stitched itself back together to become the capital (and largest city) of a reunified Germany and now reigns as one of the most fascinating cities in the world. such as Altona. cafes. . The Bach Museum is of interest to classical-music lovers. Big. In the Altstadt. Similarly. offers a rich collection of European art and 19th-century German paintings. Leipzig. and visit the Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum). In Bremen. For the scoop on Hamburg. or at least difficult to visit. you can also explore beautiful 19th-century neighborhoods. one Communist — after World War II. according to the United Nations’ agency that promotes education and the arts. Exploring eastern Germany Now that Germany is reunited. you have an opportunity to visit sections of eastern Germany that for 45 years were inaccessible. 18thcentury palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam — in Chapters 11 and 12. one of the biggest in the world. brash Berlin was the capital of the old German Reich for 70 years before it was divided into two cities — one capitalist. on the other hand. In Hamburg. and Bremen. another easy daytrip from Hamburg. has so many medieval brick buildings that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site — a place judged to be of exceptional cultural value. you find a historic center with a day’s worth of sightseeing possibilities. played in the lives of citizens. historic reverberations. and the city seems to be working overtime to shake off its GDR legacy: The Museum in der Runden Ecke is devoted to the role the Stasi. East Germany’s secret police. on the Elbe River and only two hours from Berlin by train. Hamburg is the third-largest city in Germany. and its harbor. has been less interested in restoring its past than looking toward the future. Does the Berliner Luft (Berlin air) account for Berlin’s endless and ongoing fizz of excitement. opened in 2005. Berlin is where all is happening in Germany right now. so are the breezy Alster Lakes in the center of the city. and striking new architecture. Lübeck. The peaceful revolution of 1989 began there. multifaceted collection of art.

and to the playwright Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805). pottery.T. furniture. quiet. A visit to the Buchenwald Memorial.000 people . Stettin Bay Neubrandenburg Wilhelmshaven Emden Oldenburg Bremerhaven W Elb e Hamburg El be Schwerin TH HE E N ET H ERLAN DS NET HER L AND S Bremen Celle Northern and Eastern Germany See Part III Alle r Brandenburg Havel Osnabr ck Osnabrück Minden Hannover Braunschweig Hameln Goslar BERLIN Frankfurt Münster nster Rh in e Bielefeld Detmold Hildesheim Potsdam an der Oder Oder bbenau Lübbenau Cottbus Magdeburg H A R Z Wittenberg Essen Lippe Dortmund Ruhr Düsseldorf sseldorf Bad Pyrmont Dessau be El Od ese r Lüneburg neburg er POLAND Mönchengladbach nchengladbach Cologne Aachen Ems Ne We ser Spre Göttingen ttingen isse Halle Leipzig e Kassel Weimar Bad Wildungen Eisenach Erfurt Bautzen Naumburg Meissen Dresden Altenburg Freiberg Jena Görlitz rlitz TH Bonn BEL BE LG GIUM IU M Bad Nauheim Bad Homburg Bad Kissingen GE Gera Zwickau RW Chemnitz ER E ZG BI RG E Koblenz Wiesbaden Mainz Rhi ne ÜR ALD Coburg Hof La IN be BernkastelKues Frankfurt am Main Aschaffenburg Ma Würzburg rzburg AN Speyer Rothenburg o. Cuxhaven Rügen gen Mecklenburg Stralsund Pomeranian Bay Bay Rostock Greifswald Wismar Lübeck beck West Frisian Is.d. the poet and dramatist Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832). and drawings from the Bauhaus school. textiles. Schleswig Mountain Kiel North Sea East Frisian Is. The homes of these two literary giants are Weimar’s most popular tourist attractions.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 27 The Regions in Brief 0 0 50 mi Sylt Sylt Westerland DENMARK Baltic Sea Kiel Bay Hiddensee N 50 km Flensburg North Frisian Is. It suffered little damage during the war and was the home of Germany’s greatest writer. which began here in 1919. the site of a Nazi-run concentration camp just outside of Weimar where at least 56. The small Bauhaus Museum exhibits paintings. Nuremberg C AN FR Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl O JUR LUXEMTrier BOURG in Bayreuth Bamberg Darmstadt Worms Mannheim eck Homburg Heidelberg N Saarbrücken Saarbr cken A CZECH REPUBLIC M Ta ub er BO NI ar HE A Karlsruhe BadenBaden Schwäbisch Schw bisch Hall Stuttgart Ulm B (SC LAC Rhi ne HW K F AR OR ZW EST AL D) Tübingen bingen Regensburg F O RE Da ST nub e rdlingen Nördlingen r Ingolstadt Isa Passau Augsburg Landshut N I FRANCE Lech Freiburg Lörrach rrach SWAB Donaueschingen Meersburg Konstanz Lindau Lake JU IAN RA nu Da be Dachau Munich Oberammergau Füssen ssen GarmischPartenkirchen Southern and Western Germany See Part IV Prien am AU Chiemsee Berchtesgaden STRIA SW S W I TZ TZE ER RLA L A ND ND Constance (Bodensee) Neuschwanstein Zugspitze The small. eastern town of Weimar is in a category of its own.

with its famous mineral baths and glamorous casino. Germany’s highest peak. the capital. Germany’s largest lake. which is accessible by cable car. a town that’s famous for its woodcarvers and for the Passion play performed there every ten years — a tradition dating back to the 17th century. the Bodensee. is the best spot to stay. and it’s close to the Zugspitze. Lindau. Munich’s musical life is the envy of many cities. You find complete coverage of Dresden. 19th-century greats. Chapter 15 is devoted to the many delights of Munich. You’ll find plenty of both along the Romantic Road. is a place that’s tailor-made for tourists. In the Black Forest. crammed with old masters. You also find lovely churches with sober Gothic and exuberant baroque interiors. where cowbells clang in the meadows and classic chalets nestle in picturesque valleys. Both areas offer great natural beauty and plenty of recreational opportunities. This alpine region. or Black Forest. and concerts of all kinds. an island in the lake. semitropical gardens flourish on Mainau. the largest science and technology museum in the world. The Romantic Road and daytrips in Bavaria are covered in Chapter 16. one of the traditional industries of the Black Forest region. The city’s most popular museum is the Deutsches Museum. Germany’s largest and most prosperous Land (state). From Munich. with an upscale chic. even raucous: Millions pour into the city during Oktoberfest to experience Munich’s renowned giant beer halls and beer gardens. the daytrip to the mountain resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen is an easy one. with stops at several perfectly preserved medieval towns along the way. symphony. Leipzig. the Residenz. sits in a sun-drenched basin with a view of the Alps to the south. Southern Germany also includes the Bodensee (also called Lake Constance). In the center of town sits an enormous palace. Ranking right up there with the offerings of Berlin are Munich’s museums. and major 20th-century artists. but it’s also boisterous. Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle in the Bavarian Alps. an island-city connected to the mainland by a causeway. Munich. the most beautiful driving tour in Germany. is cultured and elegant. Details about the Bodensee and the Black Forest are in Chapter 17. This enchanting route winds south from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein. From there you can explore the surrounding forest or hunt for a cuckoo clock. can be an intense and profoundly moving experience. Savoring southern Germany Southern Germany is worlds apart from the north.28 Part I: Introducing Germany died. and Weimar in Chapter 14. and the famous Schwarzwald. Farther north is the city of Baden-Baden. the lively and lovely city of Freiburg is a delight. Bavaria is full of scenic splendor and picturesque charm. with year-round opera. and vineyards and fruit trees grow around its shoreline. Bavaria. . used by the rulers of Bavaria from the 14th century up to 1918. also is where you find Oberammergau.

which comes as a wonderful surprise to many visitors. Cologne was an important Roman town during a period that is wonderfully interpreted in the Romisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). Nürnberg (or Nuremberg as it’s known in English) was rebuilt in a style that evokes the medieval era when it was one of the most important cities in Germany. the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). business-oriented buzz and a skyline pierced by designer skyscrapers. only 40 minutes by train from Heidelberg. in part because it’s the point of entry for most visitors who fly into the country. The city’s past dark side as a center for Nazi rallies is documented in the harrowing exhibit at the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Party Rally Grounds Documentation Center) created within Albert Speer’s Nazi Congress Hall. Heidelberg’s enormous ruined castle oversees its picturesque Altstadt (Old Town). For more on Cologne and side trips into Germany’s wine country. and good-natured town offers more than enough to keep you busy for a couple of days. Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is the oldest in Germany. Köln. one of Germany’s best for art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. Chief among its many outstanding museums are the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. the largest Gothic structure north of the Alps. River cruises originating in Cologne and many other cities in the area take you through valleys of neatly clipped vineyards soaking up sunlight on steep hillsides. Frankfurt probably is the best-known metropolis in western Germany. reigns as the cultural capital of southwestern Germany. Nuremberg has as many romantic corners as Heidelberg. Stuttgart. The banking capital of Germany and the European Union. Frankfurt has a modern. Stuttgart’s is one of the largest. The Rhine and Mosel valleys in western Germany form one of Europe’s top wine-producing areas.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 29 Wending through western Germany Western Germany is a densely populated area with an ancient history and cities with vibrant personalities all their own. Heidelberg is for many people the quintessential romantic German town. Sitting on the Neckar River amid green hills. Little more than a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of WWII. see Chapter 19. Stuttgart. Its chief glory is its awe-inspiring Dom (Cathedral). one of the top modern-art museums in Europe. and the Museum Ludwig. By contrast. with major painting collections and the fabulous Neue Galerie. Among its many cultural offerings are several important museums. and Nuremberg are covered in Chapter 18. sophisticated. occupies a prime spot on the Rhine River. and a delightful Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum). Heidelberg. in addition to the country’s largest museum of art and culture. or Cologne (as it’s known in English). This lively. You can also visit many wine towns by train. all described in Chapter 20. . an art museum housed in a striking glass cube offering a panoramic view of Stuttgart. Cologne also is one of the contemporary-art capitals of Germany.

and Lindau on Lake Constance. . and Baden-Baden — are never more than three hours away by train. Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday). ߜ From Hamburg. August 15 (Assumption). so it’s possible to hop on a fast train at the airport and arrive almost anywhere in Germany within five hours or less of your arrival. Nuremberg. Corpus Christi (ten days after Pentecost). and Weimar in eastern Germany. and December 25 to 26 (Christmas). ߜ From Berlin. including Neuschwanstein. Easter (including Good Friday and Easter Monday). so you can choose the best time for your visit. If you want to explore all parts of the country. your airport choices are Frankfurt. Many museums and attractions close on the following public holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day). the seventh Sunday after Easter). an easy hour-and-a-half drive away (see Chapter 16 for more details). and November 1 (All Saints’ Day). you have easy access to the cities of Dresden. the northern German cities of Lübeck and Bremen are a short train ride away. you can easily reach places in the Bavarian Alps. ߜ From Munich. in addition to Augsburg. If a driving tour along the Romantic Road is part of your itinerary. the latter of which has a new Delta direct flight from New York.30 Part I: Introducing Germany Scheduling Your Time If you’re flying into the country from outside of Europe. Leipzig. Revealing the Secret of the Seasons How do you decide what time of year to travel to Germany? This section presents the pros and cons of each season. ߜ From Cologne. and Berlin. Keep German holidays in mind when scheduling your trip. Munich. Garmisch-Partenkirchen. May 1 (Labor Day). Stuttgart. rent a car at Frankfurt airport and drive to the beginning of the scenic route in Würzburg. all the major cities of western Germany — Heidelberg. and Oberammergau. October 3 (Day of German Unity). Hamburg. Frankfurt airport has its own train station. and Cologne. consider centering your itineraries in Berlin. the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany). Munich. Ascension Day (ten days before Pentecost/ Whitsunday. You can also arrange for boat trips on the Rhine and visit the winegrowing regions by car or train. Füssen. In addition. November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance).

generally from October through March. and many hotels consequently offer lower summer rates. In northern Germany. I think a disclaimer is in order. That said. °F Temp. crowds and prices tend to rise during big trade fairs. castles.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 31 Traveling during high and low seasons Roughly speaking. As in many parts of the world.) 30 –1 32 0 40 4 48 9 53 12 2. Germany has a predominantly mild. So. be prepared for variations.6 3. may be more than two hours long. Table 3-1 Berlin’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Temp. Nearly all large German cities have a Messe. with a year-round schedule of major trade shows in all industries.4 34 1 1.6 1. or convention center/fairground. Average summer temperatures range from 72°F to 80°F (20°C–30°C).2 1. Most castles and palaces can be visited daily yearround.6 40 4 2.9 64 18 62 17 56 13 2. but from April through September. For average temperatures and rainfalls. These trade fairs can put a real squeeze on hotel rooms. Recent summers brought record-breaking heat waves and even in autumn many parts of Germany can be warmer than expected. some locals claim that they now receive less snow and more rain than in decades past. The average winter temperature hovers around 32°F (0°C). some report a hotter and drier climate.7 . July and August may be less expensive because that’s when Germans take off on their own holidays. like Neuschwanstein and Linderhof castles in Bavaria. resulting in plenty of unpredictable weather. bear in mind that the climate is constantly affected by colliding continental and maritime air masses from the Baltic and North seas.3 60 16 2. especially in the north. Watching those unpredictable skies Before I write about the weather in Germany. In the winter months. In general. museums. °C Rainfall (in. see Table 3-1 for Berlin in the north and Table 3-2 for Frankfurt in the south. or the Reichstag dome in Berlin. for instance. and tourist offices have shorter hours and may be closed certain days of the week. the lines for major attractions. the high season for travel in Germany is from Easter to the end of September with another peak in December. October and November and January through March are the low seasons. although I can give you a very broad overview of general weather patterns in Germany. the weather in Germany has become less predictable than in the past. Overall.9 2.2 49 9 1. The country is most crowded during the months of May and June. In southern Germany. temperate climate.2 2.2 1.

But keep in mind these springtime pitfalls: ߜ Cold. the least-gray months usually are June and September. ߜ During school holidays.9 63 17 5. Blossoming in spring Spring comes earliest in the south and in the Rhine Valley. rainy weather can last well into early summer in Berlin and other northern cities. ߜ In towns around Bodensee.32 Part I: Introducing Germany Table 3-2 Frankfurt’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 34 1 36 2 42 6 49 9 57 14 5. the weather up north can remain. ߜ The snow in the Alps usually melts by April. heralds the approach of spring around the giant Bodensee (Lake Constance) and in the river valleys of the Black Forest and throughout southwestern Germany.1 If your trip includes northern Germany. ߜ Blossoms appear on the fruit trees grown around the Bodensee and the Rhine. The Föhn. especially around Easter. invigorating. leaving May as an “inbetween” off-month: The weather in the Alps tends to be soggy and foggy at this time. . the months that are least cloudy. consider visiting in April and May. an early spring means that tables are set up in sunny squares and life begins to move outdoors. °C Rainfall (in.0 5. °F Temp.1 5.5 66 19 66 19 58 14 4. major attractions in cities throughout Germany tend to be more crowded. Even with clear skies.7 5.6 5. a dry south wind from the Alps. such as Lindau. you find asparagus specialties on menus everywhere. In the interior of Germany.) 6. though. ߜ The carefully tended parks and gardens in German cities show off their first spring flowers.5 35 2 6 Temp. Here are some of the season’s highlights: ߜ The warmth of springtime sun coaxes out the new vines in Germany’s Rhineland wine country.2 50 10 4.8 41 5 6. ߜ May and June is Spargel (white asparagus) season throughout Germany. shall we say.5 5.

ߜ Warm summer nights stay light much longer. Leipzig. mild weather in southern Germany. mid. after the grape harvest. hotels and concert halls can be broiling. and the landlocked eastern portion of the country. the Black Forest. ߜ You can dine alfresco (outdoors) in most German cities. ߜ Getting into top attractions like Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace can take two hours or more. and the orientation of individual valleys to the sun. you can generally count on warm.m. local winds. making this a perfect time to explore the Romantic Road. Some summer perks to consider: ߜ Prices for hotels often are lower in July and August. and other river valleys turn golden as the days grow shorter. However. autumn is likely to be rainy and blustery. and thundery. windless days. Summer weather in the Bavarian Alps is extremely variable and changes according to altitude. ߜ Air-conditioning is not common in Germany. humid. until 10 p. Summer in the north comes later and remains variable because of maritime influences from the North and Baltic seas. In the north. gasoline and diesel exhaust can create air pollution on hot. The deciduous trees in the Black and Thuringian forests and along the Rhine. Autumn days are beautiful in scenic Bavaria. Munich. But keep in mind: ߜ Airfare tends to be higher during summer months. frequently makes a welcome appearance during October and November. and Berlin become more inviting as warm weather settles in.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 33 Shining (and raining) in summer From April through September. ߜ Lakes in the Alps. ߜ Many attractions are open longer hours. wet winters. . In southern and western Germany. which also can be the case in Dresden. ߜ In traffic-jammed cities like Berlin. and Frankfurt. heralding gray. or what the Germans call Altweibersommer (old women’s summer). ߜ Outdoor musical performances and street fairs take place in many cities and regions. around Cologne and even as far north as Berlin. vines turn yellow. or sometimes later. ߜ Heat and humidity can make for sticky sightseeing throughout central and southern Germany.and late-summer days can become hot. Indian summer. Neckar. Glowing in autumn Fall is one of the best times to visit Germany.

numbing. ߜ When the snow starts to fall in the Alps and the Black Forest. and other events swings into high gear. ߜ Scenic areas like the Black Forest. This season has only one real drawback: Autumn may be gray and rainy. Winter can be wonderful because: ߜ In December. and seemingly endless. ߜ In the weeks before Lent.34 Part I: Introducing Germany A few advantages of autumn: ߜ Summer crowds have thinned out by the end of September. But winter has its downside: ߜ Brrr. ߜ Although you’ll be comfortable in your hotel. symphony. ߜ Germany’s cultural calendar of opera. especially in the north. ߜ The smell of new wine fills the old streets of winegrowing towns.m. The cold can be raw. . Both the Alps and the Black Forest are known for their fine skiing and winter sports. This story is different in the Bavarian Alps and the Black Forest. cities throughout the country set up magical outdoor Christmas markets where you find tree ornaments. ߜ Airfares usually drop. and the Rhineland glow with autumn hues. ߜ Daylight drops dramatically: Darkness falls as early as 3:30 or 4 p. snow doesn’t stay on the ground for long. lending a special air to the country’s many Christmas markets. Cologne and Munich celebrate with citywide carnivals (Fasching). Welcoming winter Snow can fall anywhere in Germany. the Bavarian Alps. skiers head for the slopes and cross-country trails. handcrafted goods. Germans tend to underheat rather than overheat their spaces. But with winter temperatures hovering right around freezing. especially in the north. ߜ Almost everything shuts down on December 25 and 26 and New Year’s Day. ߜ Towns in winegrowing areas celebrate with wine festivals. where the winter weather is colder and snow adds to the beauty of the mountain and forest landscapes. and baked delights. and often turns into sleet. ߜ Giant beer festivals transform Munich and Stuttgart.

plays. Celebrations in Cologne (% 0221/9433. Fasching (Carnival) festivals take place in Catholic cities throughout Germany. lasts for a week and showcases the work of international film directors in addition to the latest German films.muenchen-tourist. For information. first week of September. contact Tourist Information (% 09861/40492. January 1. various towns along the Rhine (between Bonn and Linz. Second week in February. Koblenz and Braubach. During the Historisches Festspiel (Historic Festival). Rothenburg ob der Tauber celebrates the story of how a brave citizen saved the town from destruction by drinking a huge tankard of wine (an event called Der Meistertrunk).de) in Leipzig features performances of Johann Sebastian Bach’s work in the famous Thomaskirche. The best . Last week in May to the first week in June.garmisch-partenkirchen.rothenburg. www. in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/180-700. or call or write for a free calendar of are particularly A week in February. where he was choirmaster. and in other churches and concert halls. January New Year’s Day International Ski Jumping. reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 35 Perusing a Calendar of Events Germany hums year-round with festivals and special events of all kinds. Third week in and Munich (% 089/233-0300. February The well-respected Berlin International Film Festival (% 030/25920. Goar and St. May through July. May Hamburg Summer is a summer-long series of cultural events. Verifying dates beforehand with the German National Tourist Board is a good idea. For information. www. and special exhibitions. www. The renowned Bachfest/Bach Festival (% 0341/ and St. including concerts. is one of Europe’s major winter sporting events. See the appendix for the tourist board’s contact information. www. Bingen and Rüdesheim. Goarshausen) illuminate their castles and set off Check its Web site (www. On special Saturday nights during Rhein im Feuerzauber (Rhine in Flames). contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. www. Events take place twice a year.

a big Frankish folk festival in Nuremberg (% 0911/ log on to www. www. Early June. features folk music. one of the best music festivals in Germany. .berlin. contact Heidelberg Tourist-Information. last weekend in Events take place in the Münsterplatz surrounding Freiburg’s magnificent cathedral. Late July to late August.freiburg. www. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. contact the German National Tourist Board (see the appendix for contact info). first weekend in June. June Fireworks enliven the sky in the romantic university city of Heidelberg during the Floodlighting of the www. www. featuring parades.festspiele. Enjoy vintages from the surrounding Black Forest area during Freiburg im Breisgau’s Public Wine Tasting. www. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. Pavillon (% 06221/19433. for events in Cologne. Unfortunately. For information. MidJuly to early in Bayreuth. takes place in the composer’s famous Festspielhaus (opera house). and early September. and events for the whole family. Mid-August. log on to www. July One of Europe’s major opera events. the Richard Wagner Festival (% 0921/78780. jazz concerts. Mid-August. mid-July. For events in Berlin. in Rüdesheim am Rhein. Last week in August through first week in September. Berlin and Cologne have the largest Gay Pride festivals. heidelberg. Last weekend in June. During the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival (% 0800/7463-2002. classical concerts take place in venues in and around the lovely old city of Lübeck. gay-web. local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district and regional food specialties. contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau (% 06722/19433). The Traditional Rüdesheim Wine Festival. Cologne. For details. For information. For more information. Nürnberger Herbsfest (Fall Festival). May through shmf. de). www. opera tickets must be booked years in August During Weinkost (Food and Wine Fair) in Freiburg im Breisgau. takes place in the Rhine village most famous for red performances.36 Part I: Introducing Germany vantage point is from a riverboat on the Rhine. and street Berlin. For information.volksfest-nuernberg.

contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201.stuttgart-tourist. For information. contact TourismusZentrale (% 040/3005-1201. begins with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes and features food.oktoberfest. Late September. Last weekend in August. contact the Stuttgart tourist information office (% 0711/2228259. Most activities occur at Theresienwiese. not October. First week in November. www. include food stalls. and tents for beer drinkers. and September Munich’s Oktoberfest (www. which take place around Binnenalster Lake. wine lovers converge on Schillerplatz to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. Dating back to 1818. where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to for more details. Hamburger Dom (also called Winter Dom). symphony. an annual amusement fair at Hamburg’s Heiligengeistfeld. September through mid-October. www. and theatrical presentations. Mid-September to the first Sunday in October. Events. and visitors pack hotels. November The annual Jazz-Fest Berlin. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. staged at the Philharmonie. the Frankfurt Book Fair (% 069/21010. is the biggest public event in northern Mid-October. For information. Contact the tourist information office (% 0711/222-8259. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists. At the Stuttgart Wine for www. For more information. Last week in August.frankfurt-book-fair.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 37 Arts and pleasure abound during Hamburg’s Alstervergnügen (Alster Pleasures).berlin.000 beer drinkers. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. One of the high points on the cultural calendar of Germany. www. the Berliner Festwochen (Berlin Festival) brings an international roster of performing artists to Berlin for opera. October The largest book fair in is a major event in the world of international book publishing. www. the 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. Millions show .de). November 9 to December 9. Germany’s most famous festival. happens mostly in September. fireworks.

“Christ Child Market”). You find them in Cologne. or the German National Tourist Board.38 Part I: Introducing Germany December A Christmas Market. and Stuttgart. generally called a Weihnachtsmarkt (Weihnachten means Christmas) or a Christkindlmarkt (literally. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Late November or early December until Christmas. Frankfurt. Contact the individual tourist offices of each city. Dresden. among other cities. Nuremberg. for details (see the appendix for contact information). . Leipzig. takes place in town squares throughout Germany. Munich.

) Although you can reach all the destinations in this chapter by train or public transportation. see Chapter 15 for Munich. on the Rhine. Chapter 19 for Cologne. Head first for Marienplatz. Spend Day 1 in marvelous Munich. Chapter 16 for the Bavarian Alps and its castles. Shake out your plane-cramped legs by taking to the streets for some general exploration. Munich’s largest church. I include two of King Ludwig II’s castles and a brief stop in Cologne. watch the Glockenspiel. make your way to the . beginning in Munich and ending in Berlin. Then walk over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt.Chapter 4 Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options In This Chapter ᮣ Seeing Germany’s top attractions in one or two weeks ᮣ Discovering Germany with your kids ᮣ Planning trips for wine aficionados P utting together a good itinerary is one of the hardest parts of any trip. one of the greatest food markets in Europe. Afterward. For details on getting around the country. and visit the nearby Frauenkirche. see Chapter 7. (See Chapter 1 for some preliminary information on what the country offers. some of these itineraries are more enjoyable if you have a car. how do you know what’s worth seeing and what isn’t? In this chapter. If you haven’t visited a destination before. Browse around and find a place for lunch from among the dozens of possibilities in the area. For more information about the sights that I mention. the city’s main square. I lay out some suggested travel itineraries for those with limited time or with special interests. and Chapter 12 for Berlin. You can go up to the top of the Rathaus tower for a bird’s-eye view. shows you the contrasts between southern Germany and northern Germany and introduces you to the country’s two greatest cities. Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week This seven-day itinerary.

If you rent a car. choose a museum to visit. If you’re in the mood for oom-pah-pah. and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. the trip takes a little more than an hour. On Day 3. Or make an easy excursion to beautiful Schloss Nymphenburg. Tours of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castle take about one hour. On Day 4. If you’re without a car. make your way to the famous Deutsches Museum. which displays an international collection of 20th-century masterpieces. Make Neuschwanstein your top priority. Oberammergau. choose another museum to visit. you can easily get a bus from Füssen for the 6. At some point. If you’re an art lover. this castle quickly fills up with tourists as the day wears on. Spend the night in Füssen. for a spectacular view of the Alps. visit adjacent Hohenschwangau Castle. If you choose Nymphenburg. allow some extra time to wander through the gardens. a showcase for 19thcentury German and European art. Munich is one of Germany’s top cultural capitals. Special cog railways and cable cars can take you up and bring you back down.40 Part I: Introducing Germany Asamkirche for a glimpse of the baroque ornamentation for which southern Germany is famous. you may want to see the priceless collection of old masters at the Alte Pinakotheke. You need the entire morning to wander through the enormous Residenz in central Munich. you can easily explore some of the sights along the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road). By train from Oberammergau. take a bus from Oberammergau to Schloss Linderhof. so you may want to end your evening at a concert or the opera. Have lunch near Marienplatz. In the afternoon. Three possibilities are the Neue Pinakothek. head to the Bavarian Alps. the location for Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. Germany’s highest peak. which you can reach by streetcar. If you’re without wheels. the trip is only 40 minutes by train or car to Oberammergau. or Füssen. You can dine near the parking area below Neuschwanstein. have dinner at the fun-loving Hofbräuhaus. you can make an easy excursion to the Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). Or you can take a train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and ascend the Zugspitze. which includes the bizarrely ornate sleighs and coaches used by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. if you’re still in a “royal” mood. In the afternoon. and be sure to take time to stroll around the lovely historic district of town. the closest town to Linderhof Palace. From Garmisch. and be sure to visit the collection of carriages. Start Day 2 in a palace. fit in a stroll in the bucolic Englischer Garten. Then. make your way to Füssen. Spend the night in Garmisch. the brand-new Pinakothek Moderne Kunst. You can bring a picnic or order a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. Ludwig II’s Frenchinspired castle. whose wares you may want to purchase. Wander through this small Bavarian town. Ludwig’s childhood home. a beautiful baroque masterpiece located just a few miles north of Füssen. as Germany’s most popular tourist attraction. the town closest to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles. creator of Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle. If you’re interested in science and technology. . If you’re driving. which is famous for its woodcarvers. Munich’s largest and prettiest park. just south of Munich.5km (4-mile) trip to the castle.

entirely devoted to 20th-century and contemporary art. too. Stay overnight in Cologne and have dinner at one of the city’s famous beer halls (be sure to sample Kölsch. and the Reichstag. The city has an excellent music scene. the symbol of the city. the country’s parliamentary headquarters. Then walk east down Unter den Linden to Museumsinsel (Museum Island).000 years ago. (By fast the fastest train from Füssen takes about 7 hours. make your way over to Potsdamer Platz. so you may want to see an opera or attend a concert. For detailed information on the cities and sights that I mention. You can also take a sightseeing boat ride along the Rhine. Berlin is famed for its nightlife. the trip from Munich takes about 51⁄2 hours. such as the Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). On the morning of Day 6. www. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. Settle into your hotel and then take one of the sightseeing bus tours of the city — otherwise you’ll see only a fraction of this enormous metropolis. Cologne’s delicious beer). and Weimar. Then stroll down the Ku-Damm. From Potsdamer Platz. East Side.) You’ll see Cologne’s greatest sight — the enormous Gothic Dom (cathedral) — as you step out of the train station. West Side: Germany in Two Weeks What a treat — two weeks to take in the sights! This suggested itinerary makes a clockwise circuit of Germany. or a cabaret. Enjoy the afternoon in this lively Rhine-side city by visiting the cathedral and one or two of its many fine museums. so come back later if the line is long. contact Severin+Kühn. superfast trains to Berlin (the trains depart from the Cologne Hauptbahnhof. Leipzig. After your tour. the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. or you can drive back to Munich and return it there. a concert. and Museum Ludwig. the new quarter where the Berlin Wall once stood. hop on the train and make your way to Köln (Cologne) for Day 5. displaying old and modern masters. Here’s hoping your flight home departs sometime in the afternoon on Day 7. check out Chapter 12 for Berlin and Potsdam. call German Rail at % 11861).Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 41 If you have your car for a two-day rental. before making your way to the airport. Take the elevator up to the new dome on top of the Reichstag — the dome is open late.severin-kuehn-berlin. western Berlin’s renowned boulevard. you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. The trip from Cologne is under 41⁄2 hours. sophisticated Berlin has endless things to do. take one of the sleek. Chapter 14 for Dresden. and stop in at the Pergamon Museum or the Altes Museum with their fantastic collections of antiquities. so when darkness falls you may want to attend an opera. dedicated to the Romans who made Cologne one of their strategic forts nearly 2. To book a bus tour. for train information and schedules. you may be able to return the vehicle in Füssen. so you can take advantage of the morning by going over to the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) to see the world-famous bust of Egyptian queen Nefertiti. Chapter 15 for . From either city. Huge.

From Museumsinsel. Germany’s capital and largest city. Chapter 16 for Bavaria and its castles. such as the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) or the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). you see a different side of Germany (literally) in the eastern cities of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). walk to the Brandenburg Gate and head east down Unter den Linden. Spend Day 2 on the western side of the city. Head over to the Charlottenburg neighborhood for a tour of Schloss (Palace) Charlottenburg and a stroll through the palace gardens. then head over to the Reichstag and take the elevator up to the new dome for a view of the city. Several museums are in and around the palace. Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee. left as a colossal ruin after the devastation of World War II. Stop by the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church). In Dresden. and. Berlin’s most famous park. is the starting point on Day 1 of your two-week tour of Deutschland. Have something fun lined up for the evening: Berlin has three opera houses. an easy trip from Berlin by S-Bahn. the upscale shopping street. the Residenzschloss. so start the morning by taking one of the sightseeing bus tours. and wander into the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas’ Quarter) before you head up to the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) to visit the Pergamon Museum and/or the Altes Museum. You want to give yourself at least four hours for this excursion. is one of the great art cities of Germany. In the afternoon. three major symphony orchestras.severin-kuehn-berlin. Head back to the Kurfürstendamm (known as Ku-Damm). to book one. the most famous boulevard in western Berlin. variety shows. Plenty of entertainment options exist for the evening. Start at Potsdamer Platz. the most famous boulevard in this part of the city. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. for lunch or to find a cafe for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). the most historic part of the city. Berlin is an enormous city. Berlin. On Day 4. which was ruled by the Communists until on the Elbe River about two hours south of Berlin by train. contact Severin+Kühn. a pre–World War I quarter that now features several smart cafes and shops. cabarets. You can eat near the palace or back in Berlin. Dresden. or take the S-Bahn (the city’s system of elevated trains) to Hackescher Markt. the . of course. a beautiful neoclassical square. countless bars and clubs. a vast collection of treasures accrued by Saxon rulers. Then spend a while strolling in the Tiergarten. which includes a tour of Frederick the Great’s rococo palace and a walk through the landscaped grounds. which displays the stunning bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. www. and Chapter 18 for Heidelberg and Nuremberg. the most famous is the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum). Spend the morning of Day 3 at Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam. you want to focus your attention on the Albertinum. Eastern Berlin has numerous attractions: Make sure that you stop at the Gendarmenmarkt. visit one of Berlin’s great museums. you can walk to Friedrichstrasse. Afterward. Devote your afternoon to exploring eastern Berlin.42 Part I: Introducing Germany Munich.

is the town’s most visited site. and the Bach Museum is dedicated to his life and works. your destination for Day 6. Stay overnight in Weimar. and then head over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt to wander through this wonderland of an outdoor market. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and his friend. the journey takes about five hours. which reopened in 2006 after being painstakingly restored. the most important being the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery). only an hour away. Not far from the city center. portions of which have been left much as they were in his lifetime. the next stop on this itinerary. is the Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial). a vaulted underground restaurant. In 2005. the town’s liveliest square. Weimar has its dark side. or take the train to Munich. If you’re an opera lover. East Germany’s secret police.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 43 new home of the famed treasury known as the Green Vault. Choose a museum you’d especially like to visit: Most visitors make the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters . Leipzig is a busy. and the Zwinger. lived here. you have to make some decisions about what to see. the great German dramatist Friedrich Schiller. fast trains take less than an hour to reach Weimar. where he is buried. Spend the night in Dresden. From Leipzig.” With only two days. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe’s House). and the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) examines all aspects of life in the GDR from 1945 to 1989. today. too. The city has two unusual museums that shed light on the GDR era: The Museum in der Runden Ecke documents the methods of the dreaded Stasi. you won’t want to miss seeing a performance at the Semper Opera House. If you love symphonic music. Visit the scene of Duchess Anna Amalia’s glittering salons in the Wittumspalais. Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster of the famous Thomaskirche (St. you can visit the small Bauhaus Museum. 3. Weimar was one of Germany’s great centers of art and culture during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Thomas Church). Enjoy a dinner of regional food in the famous Auerbachs Keller. hop on a train for Leipzig. be sure to reserve a seat to hear the worldfamous Gewandhaus Orchestra. pretty city. This small. a restored royal palace that is home to four museums. Otherwise (or afterward). the city’s main square. Your destination for Day 7 is delightful Munich. bustling city with a long musical tradition. From Dresden on Day 5. the Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) moved into a building close to Marktplatz. is one of Germany’s literary meccas. the Bauhaus School of Art and Design operated in 41⁄2-hour trips take place daily. From April through September. filled with leafy parks and neoclassical buildings. on the site of a Nazi-era concentration camp. In the early 20th century. a “city palace” near Goethe’s house. you may want to take an excursion boat along the Elbe into the area known as Saxon Switzerland. Start your explorations at Marienplatz. Make it a point to see the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). Germany’s “secret capital.

from Munich make your way to Füssen. Stay overnight in Munich. You’ve no doubt heard about the Schwarzwald. theater. where Ludwig spent his childhood. beer halls. By car or train. Give yourself some leeway with time because the crowds can be dense. you may want to consider renting a car for the next four days. The charming and lively university town of Freiburg is about three hours by train from Lindau. The area has no important museums. Munich’s gigantic “in town” palace. or Lake Constance. or Black Forest. Stay overnight in Munich. pop concerts. Germany’s sunny southwestern corner comes as a surprise to many visitors. Even if you’re driving from Füssen. you can happily spend a few hours strolling through old streets lined by Bächle (little streams). Then. and its cuckoo clocks. the country’s largest lake and one of the largest bodies of water in Europe. sample one of the city’s many entertainment options. 6. take in another museum. travel time is about the same. After lunch near Marienplatz. symphony. This scenic area of forested hills. . This upscale. If you have a car. From Munich or Füssen. its hiking and recreational sports facilities. Lindau’s sunny charms are reminiscent of Italy. enjoy a stroll through Füssen’s lovely historic quarter. is one of the most popular museums in the country. This wine town has vineyards nearby and yearly wine festivals. you can continue on to Lindau. your destination on Day 11. If you have a car. valleys.5km (4 miles) from the most famous tourist attraction in all of Germany: Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle. exploring the Bavarian Alps along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse (German Alpine Road). Take your pick of cities to stay in. beer gardens. sitting under an umbrella at a cafe. Start Day 8 with a self-guided tour of the Residenz. Here you find the Bodensee. If you’re without a car. swimming. Some small Bavarian village with a cozy Gasthaus (guesthouse) may catch your fancy. If you opt for Baden-Baden. and a famous casino. Spend the day strolling in the sun (if the sun cooperates).44 Part I: Introducing Germany Gallery) their top priority. or taking a boat ride on the lake to the garden island of Mainau. You have innumerable ways to spend the evening in this cultural mecca: opera. devoted to science and industry. and clubs. resort-oriented town offers fine hotels and restaurants. Freiburg’s lovely Münster (cathedral) and its surrounding square constitute the main sights in town. At night. visit the nearby Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). stroll in the lovely Englischer Garten and stop for a drink or a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. many expensive shops. is one of Germany’s premier spa towns. a world-famous baroque masterpiece. but the Deutsches Museum. the trip to Lindau for Day 10 is about three hours by train. but doing so is not essential. so just take it easy. stay overnight in Füssen or return to Munich. You can also visit neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle. about 11⁄2 hours farther north by train. Baden-Baden. You need at least two hours to visit the entire complex. On Day 9. and mountains in the southwestern corner of Germany is famed for its health resorts. But first. In Freiburg. if the afternoon is fine.

a picturesque area alongside the Pegnitz River. some aspects of traveling in Germany — taking a train. or seated in a quiet. Some hotels let children stay for free in their parents’ room. Luckily. especially on a warm evening when your table is in the courtyard near the fountain. the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). the entire Altstadt is a pedestrian zone. stop at the Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) for a glimpse of the toys for which this city has long been famous. which covers the entire spectrum of German fine arts from its prehistoric beginnings to the present day. Then take a relaxing boat ride down the Neckar. On Day 13. Stop in at the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate) for a look at Tilman Riemenschneider’s powerfully carved altarpiece. formal restaurant awaiting the main course. And then. to catch your flight home. which is less than an hour by train from Baden-Baden or 21⁄2 to 3 hours from Freiburg. or visiting a castle — appeal to kids just because of the novelty. Everyone seems to love this ancient university town on the Neckar River. for example. Give yourself at least two hours to visit the marvelous Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). make your way to Heidelberg. On Day 12. You face difficulties in the basic areas of food choices and sightseeing options. you can pay a few euros more and request an extra bed. Discovering Germany with Kids Face it: Traveling with kids isn’t easy. On Day 14. The Altstadt (Old Town) is where you want to stay and where you want to wander. under two hours from Nuremberg. When it comes time to eat. and fine Gothic churches. just wander around without an itinerary. hop on the Bahn (train) in Heidelberg and in 31⁄2 to 4 hours. but you can take a tour of some restored rooms. one of the most attractive towns in Germany. a 125-year-old mineralbath establishment. As in many German cities. at the ones that don’t. as it’s known in English). I slant this very general itinerary toward outdoor activities and give other options only when they seem relevant. (Alternatively. or from Munich. you’re in Nürnberg (or Nuremberg. Hike or take the funicular train up the hillside to the famed Heidelberg Castle for a stunning view of the town and the river valley. . where your tour began. the experience takes about 31⁄2 hours. a little more than two hours by train from Nuremberg. you can fly home from Frankfurt. The museum’s restaurant is one of the nicest places to dine in Heidelberg.) Sit back and enjoy the scenery.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 45 be sure to “take the waters” at Friedrichsbad. The castle is mostly in ruins. Find a cafe to sit and people-watch while you plan your next trip to Germany. if you’re in the mood. You find squares with lovely fountains. head back to Berlin. No kid I know wants to spend two hours wandering around a museum admiring old master paintings. The train ride from Nuremberg is about 51⁄2 hours. If you have time in any of these cities before your flight departs.

). one of the largest and most beautiful city parks in Europe. the city’s main square. head over to the kid-friendly Deutsche Museum. By car or train make your way to Lindau. You can find plenty of outdoor cafes around Marienplatz. The forested hills all around Neuschwanstein and neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle are full of excellent hiking paths. including an 18th-century swimming pool and a baroque hunting lodge. If you didn’t make it to the Deutsches Museum the day before. Most hikes take an energetic four to five hours. or sit in the famous beer garden (nonalcoholic refreshments available for the kids). and then drive or take a bus to Neuschwanstein. The view from the summit is — what else? — spectacular. be sure to catch the Glockenspiel show at 11 a. Stay overnight in Füssen and explore the charming old town on foot.960m/9.46 Part I: Introducing Germany look for casual bistros. so you and the kids can easily walk everywhere. where you can wander along the tree-shaded walks. you’ll also find American-style fast-food restaurants in all midsize and large cities). but some of them are shorter and easy enough for children. If you’re a dedicated hiker. the best outdoor market in Germany and a great place to have a casual lunch. forested paths. and 500-acre Nymphenburg Park is grand and inviting. a sunny flower-filled resort town that sits on its own small island in the Bodensee. on the spire of the Rathaus.720 ft. Drive or take the train to Füssen on Day 4. Just remember one thing: Wellbehaved children are smiled upon in Germany. while there. with formal. “Mad” Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle. French-style gardens behind the palace and an English-style park with quiet meadows. and some intriguing buildings. dance in the meadows. Schloss Nymphenburg is on the top of your list. Alternatively. On Day 2. The entire inner city is a car-free pedestrian zone where you and your kids can stroll with ease. Public transportation is a priority in every German city. the other kind are not. It’s loaded with interesting stuff for kids and adults. or even outdoor food stands (yes. The Schloss (palace) is a breeze to get to (it’s right in the city on the streetcar line). The area around . you can rent a car or take the train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps south of Munich. with easy access and reduced rates for kids. Stay overnight in Garmisch. On Day 3. Right next to Marienplatz is the Viktualienmarkt.m. Later. A cog railway and a cable car take you up and bring you back — a fascinating treat for kids. Lindau is virtually car-free. you can head over there in the afternoon. the area around Garmisch-Partenkirchen is magnificent hiking country. Germany’s mostvisited tourist attraction perches on a rocky spur that requires a good uphill hike to reach. Good skiing and ice-skating are available all winter. cafes. Germany’s highest peak (2. Here you’re going to ascend the Zugspitze. the largest science and technology museum in the world. Spend Day 1 in Munich. Bodensee (Lake Constance) is your destination for Day 5. you may want to take a train or subway over to the Englischer Garten (English Garden). You also can reach the castle by bus or horse-drawn cab.

a lively university town in the Black Forest. From Frankfurt airport. the city celebrates with a four-day wine festival that includes public tastings. is surrounded by 1.600 acres of vineyards. a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine between the towns of Biebrich and Bingen. a plant-lover’s paradise. more than any other city in Germany. Rheingau Rieslings rank among the best white wines made anywhere. The Mosel Valley.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 47 Bodensee is Germany’s sunniest corner. The train trip from Freiburg takes about four hours. light Silvaner wine is an ideal accompaniment to Spargel (white asparagus) in May. On the last weekend in June. by car or boat. You may want to incorporate this four-day itinerary into a longer trip. The trip begins and ends in Frankfurt. you can stop at two Black Forest lakes. and the lake is clean enough for swimming. The valley follows the course of . a famous mile-high peak with spectacular views of the Rhine plain. Most of the grapes grow on the warm lower slopes of the nearby Kaiserstühl (Emperor’s Throne). The young. On Day 7 make your way back to Frankfurt or Munich for the trip home. see Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee and Chapter 19 for Cologne and sights along the Rhine. you can hop on a train on Day 1 and be in Freiburg in about two hours. is another scenic winegrowing region and your destination on Day 3. wine has been produced since Roman times. southwest of Cologne. From Cologne.750-ft. I suggest that you rent a car for just one day. Spend the night in Lindau. Head to Cologne on the River Rhine for Day 2. For a great meal with regional wines.450m (4. From Freiburg you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Schwarzwald. For more information. You can bike along the shore or relax on an excursion boat ride to the island of Mainau. the toast often is a simple “Prosit!” (pronounced prohst). a scenic winegrowing region. the Schluchsee and Titisee. Ride the train or drive north to Freiburg. your headquarters in the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) on Day 6. Or you may want to rent a car in Frankfurt for the duration of the trip. and to the 1. dine at Zum Roten Bären. Freiburg. In the Rheingau wine district. This itinerary takes you to the wine regions in western Germany. the oldest inn in Freiburg. If you’re traveling by train. You can drive through this area on a daytrip from Cologne. with stops for short hikes and cable-car rides to the top of the Belchen.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. Or you can take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz. On this drive. How about that — the kids actually had a good time! Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers When you raise a glass of wine in Germany. a volcanic massif. you can explore the neighboring wine country. Weinkost is another wine-tasting event in mid-August.

The half-timbered Alte Thorschenke in Cochem. a convivial spot to sample Germany’s many fine vintages. Between late April and the third week in October. cruises depart daily from Koblenz to Cochem. Wherever you go. If you have a few more days. Beautiful scenery and fine wines make this a prime area for leisurely exploration. Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. . Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. From Cochem. a picturesque wine village surrounded by vineyards and a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. both a hotel and a wine restaurant. you can continue your tasting tour of Germany. make your way back to Frankfurt on Day 4. The easiest way to enjoy a cruise down the Mosel River is to take a train to Koblenz. or Freiburg.48 Part I: Introducing Germany the Mosel River for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. celebrates the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. look for the local Weinstube (wine tavern). which takes place the first week in June. Cologne.

Part II Planning Your Trip to Germany .

money — so you have an approximate idea of what things cost and how to use ATMs. his part helps you with the practical details of planning your trip to Germany. . including information on which airlines fly into Germany.T In this part . In Chapter 8. explaining what hotel rack rates are. buying travel and medical insurance. I discuss all the various accommodations options. plane. credit cards. I tell you about traveling through Germany by train. and offering suggestions for landing the best room at the best price. and Jewish travelers. car. In Chapter 7. outlining the kinds of hotels and guesthouses that you’ll find. and how to get the best fare. In Chapter 9. using cellphones and staying connected by e-mail in Germany. . gay and lesbian travelers. I load Chapter 10 with information about getting a passport. . and adhering to airport security measures. In Chapter 6. and boat. I offer advice and tips for visitors with special needs and interests: families traveling with children. In Chapter 5. guided and package tours. I go over the transportation options for getting you to Germany. seniors. or traveler’s checks. I get into the nittygritty of Geld — that is.

meals. In Chapter 6. you need to break down your trip into its various components: airfare. To come up with a workable figure. You’re excited and eager to pack. San Francisco. you often can find bargain airfares to Frankfurt and Munich. Although you may think a trip to Germany is prohibitively expensive because of the transatlantic flight. entertainment. Adding everything up. I provide vital clues on how to create a realistic budget that works for you. Planning Your Budget Planning a budget for your trip to Germany isn’t as difficult as you may think. the two most expensive German cities — can actually cost less than a trip to New York.Chapter 5 Managing Your Money In This Chapter ᮣ Planning a realistic budget for your trip ᮣ Changing your dollars into euros ᮣ Using ATMs. a financial reality check is in order. Transportation costs Your first big outlay is going to be for airfare. But can you really afford the trip? At this point. and credit cards ᮣ Dealing with theft and loss ᮣ Paying and recouping German sales tax ᮣ Knowing when — and how — to tip S o. for instance? And how much is a meal in a nice restaurant after you get there? This chapter points you toward all the answers. you want to go to Germany. So this chapter is all about Geld (pronounced gelt. I tell you about flying to Germany and help you with some strategies for finding . your trip to Germany — even if you visit Munich and/or Berlin. traveler’s checks. meaning money). You may have heard that Germany is an expensive country — but just how expensive? What does a hotel in Munich cost? How much does a train ticket cost for travel from Berlin down to Bavaria. the two German airports with several direct international flights. In the following sections. hotels. and so on. transportation while there. or Los Angeles.

If you’re traveling by train and want to see some of Germany’s great castles. 800-361-7245 in Canada. such as Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. round-trip fare from a major city on the West Coast of the U. Munich. The passes make getting around German cities fairly inexpensive (approximately $6–$8 per day). you may need to take a local bus or taxi from the nearest town (Füssen. Hamburg. Keep in mind. or Old Town. You can order them through a travel agent or by calling Rail Europe at % 888-382-7245 in the United States. or underground train). for Neuschwanstein) to the castle.200 during high season. Berlin. including advance purchase. Based on my own experience. you can hop on a bus or tram. you can save money by buying a German Rail Pass before you leave home. you probably can find flights for $400 to $800 in low season and $700 to $1. however. or by going online to www. The historic inner-city area of German cities nearly always is called the Altstadt. . and Cologne all have subway systems called the U-Bahn (short for Untergrundbahn. The next transportation expense to consider is dependent upon how you plan to travel around Germany after you arrive. If you’re planning to travel around Germany by train. That saves you a bundle.52 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the cheapest airline fares. I mention these moneysaving cards in the city sections of this guide whenever they’re available and worthwhile.S. such as Bavaria and the Black Forest. I talk more about these cost-cutting train passes and the popular Eurailpass in Chapter 7. having a car makes exploration of the countryside much easier. If you don’t want to walk. I can tell you that finding a nonstop. The same cities also have light-rail or aboveground trains called the S-Bahn and a system of trams or streetcars and buses.raileurope. you can walk almost everywhere. to Frankfurt is possible for about $600 to $900 during low season and $800 to $1.000 in high season. but so is finding flights that cost a whole lot Please note that these are ballpark figures for economy-class seats found by using every cost-saving trick in the book. and easy to use. In smaller towns and cities of Germany. Frankfurt. because city centers are so compact and close to the train stations. Special reduced-price transportation passes are good for a full day (Tageskarten) or longer on all forms of public transportation. From New York or Boston. U-Bahns are fast. convenient. You can also tour by train throughout the whole of Germany without ever renting a car. Many larger cities have special passes that include public transportation and free or reduced-price admission to various attractions. that in some areas. Here’s some good news: You won’t need to rent a car in any German city because public transportation is so good. Finding flights that cost less is quite possible.

however. the major cities. Moderate hotels run from 126€ to 175€ ($158–$218). Many hotels in the Bavarian countryside. hotel rates are lower. large cities like Berlin and Munich have emerged as international food capitals. but you’ll find that many of the best restaurants in Berlin. is going to cost. lunch. and elsewhere offer special fixed-price meals that can be real bargains. Overall. That cost will be higher in Munich and Berlin than anywhere else in Germany. As a general rule. the price drops so dramatically that you can stay in a double room at a five-star luxury hotel for less than 175€ ($219) per night. . breakfast. In some cases. 2-star. the rates at inexpensive hotels in Munich or Berlin. Food in Germany often is characterized as heavy. no matter where you are. you’ll find that hotels throughout Germany are reasonably priced (and practically a bargain when compared to prices in other European countries). eating at top restaurants. especially in some of the truly elegant five-star properties. and expensive hotels cost from 176€ to 225€ ($220–$281). Throughout the country. giving a reliable average is difficult. you can always find a double room in a good hotel in Germany for less than 150€ ($188) a night and sometimes for less than 100€ ($125) a night. you can find a Ratskeller (restaurant beneath a town hall). But you can still find plenty of opportunities to drop a king’s ransom for a hotel. Nearly all hotels throughout Germany (except for boutique or 5-star luxury hotels) include a buffet breakfast as part of the room rate. In nearly every town and village throughout Germany. Make sure to ask about special deals wherever you stay. offer bed. a beer hall. generally from 80€ to 150€ ($100–$188) per double room per night. depending on their respective government-appointed categories (1-star. however. Munich. however. you hit the high end of 226€ ($282) and up. In recent years. a Weinstube (restaurant where wine is the primary beverage served). and so on). Traditional food. and a full dinner at bargain prices.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 53 Lodging expenses A large piece of your budget will be the cost of your hotel or other accommodations. or some other kind of nonfancy restaurant where you can dine inexpensively and well and where you can enjoy your meal among the locals. isn’t the only cuisine you’ll find in Germany. But because rates vary from one hotel to the next. For the recommendations in this guide. See Chapter 8 for information on what to expect in each price range and for a discussion of your lodging options and how to get the best rate. for instance. Of course. hotels offer special price breaks for weekends (Wochenende) and during the summer (generally July and Aug). Although that may be true. After that. traditional German food also is ganz schmackhaftig (very tasty). generally are less than 125€ ($156). including breakfast. Outside of Munich and Berlin.

Outside of Berlin or Munich. And some of the top sights — such as the Reichstag in Berlin or the Frauenkirche and Englischer Garten in Munich — are free. you can often get a reducedprice admission. Finding a museum that costs more than 8€ ($10) is rare. You don’t have to buy anything at all. But remember. In addition. if you’re a senior or a student. When eating lunch and dinner at moderately priced restaurants in Berlin. and back again. on what you want to see. In some locations. You know what . sightseeing in Germany is fairly inexpensive. exploring by foot in almost any German town is a good way to soak up the local culture free of charge. The most expensive ride is to the top of the Zugspitze. expect your daily food cost to be about 25€ to 40€ ($31–$50). of course. mid-priced restaurant averages about 28€ ($35) including beer. Kurfürstendamm or Unter den Linden. Hamburg. The major cities — Berlin. dinner for two at a good. is kostenlos (free). and you can hit the sack right after dinner instead of going to a concert or dancing at a club. food is more expensive in big cities like Berlin and Munich. the top attraction is a cable car that can whisk you to the top of a famous peak for a spectacular view. unless you splurge on really high-priced restaurants.54 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany As with hotels. the cost for adults is 45€ ($56). generally around 5€ ($6. and you’re content with coffee and a roll at a stand-up counter (or a Starbucks). expect to pay from 3€ to 5€ ($2. a buffet breakfast nearly always is included in your hotel cost. City sightseeing tours by bus cost from 10€ to 24€ ($13–$30). costs only 8€ ($10). and that doesn’t include beer or wine. Afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) sets you back about 7€ or 8€ ($9 or $10) anywhere in Germany. Shopping and nightlife costs Shopping and entertainment are the most flexible parts of your budget. If you eat breakfast at a cafe rather than your hotel. Fortunately. Sightseeing expenses Your budget for admission fees depends. depending on the duration of the trip.50€ to 7€ ($4. you can expect to pay from 35€ to 50€ ($44–$62) per person per day (assuming your hotel rate includes breakfast).75–$6. the Bavarian castle that is Germany’s top attraction. expect to pay about 3. or viewing the Brandenburg Gate. Most cable cars cost much less. Munich. Only at luxury hotels do you have to pay extra for breakfast — usually 18€ to 22€ ($22–$27) — but the buffet breakfast invariably is fabulous. Admission to Neuschwanstein. In fact. Throughout most of Germany. Germany’s highest mountain. for example — sell special “Welcome” cards that get you into several museums for a reduced rate.50–$9) anywhere in the country. Strolling down Berlin’s great avenues. As a general rule.25) round-trip. Sightseeing boat excursions typically are 8€ to 15€ ($10–$19).25) for admission to museums and local attractions outside of the big cities.

10). excluding wine. at Marjellchen ($$–$$$) Meal for one. Tables 5-1 and 5-2 give you an idea of what things typically cost in Berlin and the rest of the country. Berlin.10€ ($2. If anything strikes you as something you can’t do without. at Die Quadriga ($$$$) Dinner for one.80€ ($7. cover charges are rarely more than 5€ ($6. bar. (Keep in mind that a small beer sets you back about 2.40) (continued) Kaffee und kuchen at a cafe or stand-up coffee shop ($) Large glass of beer at a cafe. is a late-night city. Keep in mind that the hotel rates I quote here are rack rates. Flip through the shopping and nightlife options of each destination chapter.50€ ($4.25) 330€–490€ ($412–$612) Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by bus Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by taxi One-way U-Bahn (subway) fare within central Berlin Tageskarte one-day public transportation pass for two zones Double room without breakfast at Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) Double room with breakfast at Brandenburger Hof ($$$$) 245€–295€ ($306–$369) Double room with breakfast at Hotel Domus ($$–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Arco Hotel ($–$$) Dinner for one.10€ ($2. and an opera ticket in either Berlin or Munich anywhere from 10€ to 80€ ($13–$100). or tavern .75) 6€–8€ ($7. especially. excluding wine.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 55 you want.50–$10) 3.25). so you may want to check out the club scene while you’re there. a glass of good German wine about 5€ ($6.25). at Noodle ($–$$) Cafe meal for one at Café Silberstein ($) Sausage at a stand-up snack stand ($) 115€–150€ ($144–$187) 65€–97€ ($111–$121) 60€ ($75) 30€ ($37) 15€ ($19) 10€ ($13) 3€ ($3.50) 5. the highest undiscounted rate charged by a hotel. Table 5-1 Item What Things Cost in Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 2. At mid-price and luxury hotels you can almost always find a lower rate that the one listed here simply by checking the hotel’s Web site and booking in advance. but drinks other than beer can be pricey. excluding wine. budget accordingly.50€ ($3.50) 20€ ($25) 2.

excluding beer. Dresden ($) Fixed-price dinner for one. Rothenburg ob der Tauber ($–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Hotel-Garni Brugger. Bavaria . including one glass of beer. Lindau ($) Double room with breakfast at Eden-Hotel-Wolf. Freiburg ($$$) Dinner for one. at Zum Röten Bären. Munich ($) Admission to Neuschwanstein Castle. ticket good for same-day admission to several other museums Admission to the Altes or Pergamon Museum (one ticket good for both on same day) Admission to Charlottenburg Palace and palace museums Opera ticket Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 23€–75€ ($29–$94) Table 5-2 Item What Things Cost Outside Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 50€ ($62)/34€ ($40) 151€ ($189)/96€ ($120) 190€–215€ ($237–$269) 90€–170€ ($112–$212) 86€–92€ ($107–$115) 139€–282€ ($174–$352) 57€–75€ ($71–$94) 12€ ($15) 35€–43€ ($44–$54) 20€ ($25) 8€ ($10) First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Dresden First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Munich Double room with breakfast at Der Kleine Prinz. excluding wine. at Der Kleine Prinz. Munich ($$$–$$$$) Fixed-price dinner for one. excluding wine.56 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Table 5-1 (continued) Item Admission to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). Baden-Baden ($$$$) Lunch for one. at Hofbräuhaus. at Café Schinkelwache. Baden-Baden ($$$–$$$$) Double room with breakfast at Burg Hotel.

Chapter 5: Managing Your Money Item Admission to Zwinger Palace (all museums). Semper Opera House. ground transportation. Dresden Admission to Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery). airline. Bargain Alert icons (like the one in the left margin) highlight money-saving tips and/or great deals. ߜ Try a package tour. economy car 57 10€ ($13) 4€ ($5) Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8. airfares vary depending on the day of the week and even the hour you fly. ߜ Travel on off days of the week. Sound odd? Not really.50€ ($10)/3€ ($3.000€ ($6. or packager — and you’ll pay much less than if you tried to put the trip together yourself (see Chapter 6). Munich Opera ticket. and even some sightseeing by making just one call to a travel agent. ߜ Always ask for discount rates. Dresden Complete bath and massage treatment at Friedrichsbad. be sure to ask whether you can get a cheaper rate by flying on a specific day.250) 70€ ($87) Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun Throughout this book. prices go down. If you can travel on a Tuesday. In general. Munich Adult/child admission to Deutsches Museum (Science and Industry). or Thursday. AARP. Baden-Baden Tank of unleaded gas. If you can travel at off-season times (Oct–Nov and Jan–Mar). The same is true for July and August. hotel. you may find cheaper flights to Frankfurt. Membership in AAA. Generalizing about airfares is difficult because the entire industry is changing all the time. or Berlin. When you inquire about airfares. Munich. you can book airfare. Wednesday. or other groups may qualify you for discounts on . Here are some additional cost-cutting strategies: ߜ Go during the off season. Germans tend to travel outside of Germany on their holidays. which means more beds are available in German hotels. Because more rooms are available. which are peak travel months for Germans but often a time of lower hotel prices. Baden-Baden Average losses at gambling tables.75) 25€–80€ ($31–$100) 29€ ($36) 5. frequent-flier plans. you’ll find hotel prices are as much as 20 percent less than during peak months. For popular destinations like Frankfurt and Munich.

5¢. At most top restaurants in Berlin and Munich. ߜ Travel second class. A room with two double beds usually doesn’t cost any more than one with a queensize bed. Germany’s unit of currency changed from the Deutsche Mark to the euro. and off-season special offers. 20¢. 2¢. you save a bundle by not taking two rooms. ߜ Ask if your kids can stay in your room with you. and the menu often includes many of the dinnertime specialties. children.) ߜ Try expensive restaurants at lunch rather than dinner. car rentals. The amount of money you save with a rail pass depends on how often you use it and how far you go. Regardless of where you travel in Germany. and 2€. buying your local train tickets in Germany is cheaper. 10¢. Your photographs and memories make the best mementos of your trip. That’s what the Germans do. If you’re headquartering in one city and making side trips to nearby towns. Coins come in denominations of 1¢. Each usually has a historic Altstadt. that contains most of the attractions and is within walking distance of the train station. (See Chapter 8 for some recommended Web sites. A good pair of walking shoes can save you money on taxis and other local transportation. 1€. Handling Money In January 2002. Notes are . and you can explore at a slower pace. beer steins. and the trinkets sold at major tourist attractions. ߜ Ask about weekend. hotel rooms. Sometimes these special rates are offered as romantic getaway packages and include dinner and a glass of wine.58 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany plane tickets. If you’re worried about your budget. ߜ Know the advantages and disadvantages of buying a rail pass before you leave home. First-class train tickets generally cost about one-third more than standard second-class tickets. many hotels in Germany offer special price breaks on weekends or midweek during the off season. One euro is divided into one hundred cents. To encourage year-round tourism. prices at lunch are lower than those at dinner. and guided tours booked before you go. ߜ Skip the souvenirs. Even if you have to pay a few extra euros for a rollaway bed. Bavarian hats. Surfing the Web is the best way to find out about special packages at specific hotels. 50¢. As a bonus. always look for value-added fixed-price menus. and students with ID. do without the T-shirts. key chains. or Old Town. cuckoo clocks. Most German cities are compact and eminently walkable. Attractions within Germany usually offer a lower admission rate for seniors. ߜ Walk a lot. you get to know the city and its inhabitants more intimately. And many hotels won’t charge you the additional-person rate when that person is pint-size and related to you. midweek.

though some banks provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. I round it off to the nearest nickel. euros take a bit of getting used 20. You also can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs. check the back of your ATM card for the network to which your bank belongs. you find 24-hour ATMs (often called Geldautomat) in airports. and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. In general. The coins have different sizes.mastercard. At some banks. to the nearest dollar. the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own ATM fee. I use this approximate exchange rate for prices in this book. www. Using ATMs and carrying cash The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an automated teller machine (ATM). check with your bank or look in the newspaper to find out the current rate. Charging ahead with credit cards Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad. Cirrus (% 800-424-7787. 10. and 500 denominations. if more than $10. price is less than $10.) When you’re about to leave on your trip. many banks now assess a 1 percent to 3 percent “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency). train stations. As with any unfamiliar are the most popular networks. 200. It usually takes five to seven business days. Make sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home. 50. shapes.xe. then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 59 available in 5. and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you .com) and PLUS (% 800-8437587. If you’ve forgotten yours. In addition. You also can check currency conversions online at www. is the rate you get when you use your own currency to buy euros. which fluctuates daily. Each bank-note denomination has its own color. The exchange rate. or didn’t even know you had one. www.S. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time your card is used at a different bank’s ATM. (If the U. and weights according to value.25. and outside banks. call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. the amount you can withdraw must be in a checking (not a savings) account. 1€ = $1. provided you know your PIN. In German cities.

000. traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that enable you to withdraw (usually for a fee) small amounts of cash as needed. and (for cardholders only) $1. to 10 p. Banks generally are open weekdays from 8:30 a. so having a backup is the smart way to go. Some credit-card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges. Call % 800-732-1322 for information.m. Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the service charge. Even if you don’t call your credit-card company in advance.5 percent and 2 percent. a card may not work for any number of reasons. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling % 800-221-7282. and 2:30 to 4 p. many tourist information offices. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. The service charge ranges between 1. and American Express offices. checks come in denominations of $20. you can always call the card’s toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused — a good reason to carry the phone number with you. Changing your currency in Germany You can easily change cash or traveler’s checks by using a currency-exchange service called a Geldwechsel or bureau de change. American Express offers denominations of $20. post offices countrywide. $100. . Call % 800-223-9920 for a location near you. These services are available in German airports.95 fee at most AAA offices or by calling % 866-339-3378. and $1. Cashing traveler’s checks is more timeconsuming and can end up costing more because you must go to a bank or money-exchange service and pay a check-cashing fee. to 1 p. In smaller German towns and villages.60 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany factor in things like high ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates and service fees. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. $500. Toting traveler’s checks These days.m. $50.m. many pensions (B&Bs) with one to three guest rooms operate on a cash-only basis. $50. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide and at several other banks. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip. AAA members can get Visa checks for a $9. as do some restaurants. $500. any branch of a major bank. $100. Currencyexchange windows in airports and rail stations generally are open daily from 6 a. You pay a service charge ranging from 1 percent to 4 percent.m.m. all major rail stations.000.

if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID. transunion. If you need emergency cash during the weekend. www. Leipzig. among other cities. Cologne. www. you can have money wired to you via Western Union (% 800-325-6000. Frankfurt. Dresden.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 61 If you choose to carry traveler’s checks. call the following numbers: ߜ American Express % 954-503-8850 (collect) ߜ MasterCard % 0800/819-1040 (toll-free) ߜ Visa % 0800/811-8440 (toll-free) or 417-581-9994 (collect) For other credit cards. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (% 800-766-0008. Leipzig. and TransUnion (% 800-680-7289. the airline may allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed. For addresses of Citibanks in and Munich. and Munich. Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet. when all banks and American Express offices are closed.westernunion. www. call the toll-free number directory at % 800-5551212. Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet Be sure to contact all your credit-card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or go online to www. Hamburg. call your airline and explain the situation. If your credit card gets lost or stolen while you’re in Germany. Your credit-card company or insurer may require a police-report number or record of the loss. Heidelberg. be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in case they’re stolen or lost. and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately. Citibank customers using ATMs at German branches of Citibank don’t pay additional withdrawal fees. Hamburg. americanexpress.equifax. Experian (% 888-3973742. especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards.S. You can find addresses for American Express offices throughout Germany at www. placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity.citibank. . American Express has offices in Berlin. Most credit-card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen. Find Citibank branches in Berlin. You can avoid paying a second commission fee by using American Express traveler’s checks and cashing them at an American Express office. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers. The three major U.

25 per bag carried) and doormen who hail you a cab (1€/$1. and you can’t avoid paying it. called the Mehrwertsteuer (abbreviated MWST) or value-added tax (abbreviated VAT). A Tip about Tipping As a general rule. To receive a refund. shop at stores displaying a Tax-Free Shopping sign. if the service has been very good. unless. you’re staying in an expensive hotel with porters who carry your bags (1€/$1. When you make a qualifying purchase. located at all major airports. Otherwise. Before checking your luggage upon your departure from Germany. Germany isn’t a country where you must tip excessively. border crossings. . Most stores have a minimum amount that you must spend to qualify for the refund. ferry ports. you can add 5 percent to 10 percent to your bill. or round up to the next euro. Then. If you’re not a resident of the European Union. of course. In restaurants.) This tax isn’t a hidden expense. (The general hotel and restaurant prices in this book include VAT. which must be completed by the store and must have a copy of your sales receipt attached to it. amounts to 16 percent. and railroad stations. have the voucher stamped by German Customs to confirm that the goods have been exported. This hefty percentage already is figured into the total prices of consumer goods and hotel and restaurant bills. you can get a VAT refund on purchases made in Germany (excluding hotel and restaurant bills). service charges are included in the bill. you receive a tax-free voucher.62 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Taking Taxes into Account Germany’s version of a sales tax. redeem the voucher for cash (euros or dollars) at a Europe Tax-Free Shopping window.25 per successful hail).

. . Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where In Germany. Germany’s national carrier (now partnered with United Airlines and Air Canada). Amsterdam. What are your options for direct. or London. but if you’re coming from the United States. In this chapter. Portland (Oregon). See the appendix at the back of this book for a list of the main international carriers with direct flights into Germany from the United States. but direct flights from the United States fly only into Frankfurt.Chapter 6 Getting to Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Deciding which German city to fly into ᮣ Saving on airfare and booking online ᮣ Arriving in Germany by train or boat ᮣ Joining an escorted tour ᮣ Finding out how a package tour can save you money N ow that you’ve decided to visit Deutschland (Germany. Newark. and Washington. Chicago. Berlin (one flight only). Flying into Frankfurt Frankfurt airport. and Australia. has direct flights to Frankfurt from Atlanta. Houston. New York JFK. called Flughafen Frankfurt Main. I discuss getting you to Germany. and from Toronto and Vancouver. an airport is called a Flughafen (floog-haf-en). Paris. Stuttgart. The following airlines offer direct flights: ߜ Lufthansa. is Germany’s main international hub. Munich. the United Kingdom.C. and other cities in Germany. Miami. You also can fly to Cologne. Boston. Dallas/Fort Worth. Philadelphia. nonstop flights? How can you save money on your flight (and your hotel)? What are the pros and cons of taking an escorted tour? You find answers to your basic travel questions here. you’re going to need to find a way to hop across that little puddle called the Atlantic. Canada. Detroit. Germany has several airports. Los Angeles. Copenhagen. D. these routes require a change of planes — usually in Frankfurt. and Düsseldorf. Nuremberg. San Francisco. that is).

ߜ Berlin: Berlin has two airports. ߜ Qantas flies to Frankfurt from Melbourne and Sydney. In each city section of this guide. you can easily reach other cities in eastern Germany by train. See Chapter 15 for more about flying into Munich. British Airways and British Midland fly direct to Cologne from the United Kingdom. I give you more specific information about how to get into the city from the airport. especially Dresden. ߜ Cologne: Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn is a good spot to land whenever you’re planning to tour western Germany and the Rhineland wine country. which is quite small but has easy public transportation into central Berlin. JFK. located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. ߜ Delta Air Lines has daily nonstops from Newark and Atlanta.S. and Washington. ߜ United Airlines offers nonstop service to Frankfurt from Chicago and Washington. ߜ Munich: Franz Josef Strauss International Airport.. For more information on the Frankfurt airport. ߜ British Airways flies direct to Frankfurt from London. From Berlin. and British Airways flies nonstop from London. and you’re close to Hamburg and the northern Hanseatic cities (see Chapter 13). See Chapter 11 for a complete description of Berlin’s airports. but you probably will fly into Tegel. hop on a train. Direct flights also are scheduled from most major European cities. and San Francisco.C. see Chapter 20. Opened in 1992. and Miami.C. and Weimar (see all in Chapter 14). ߜ Northwest Airlines (partnered with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines) flies nonstop to Frankfurt from Boston. so you can fly in. Paul. Boston. D.64 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ American Airlines has nonstop service to Frankfurt from Dallas/ Fort Worth. Flying into other German airports Here’s a brief rundown of other major airports in Germany and some of the airlines that fly into them. Minneapolis/St. Delta flies nonstop from Atlanta. Chicago. D. and be off to your first destination. The airport has its own train station. Chicago. Leipzig. Chicago. this airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world (completely accessible for the disabled). . Flights to other cities in Germany from Frankfurt rarely take more than 11⁄2 hours. Australia. Excursion boats leave from Cologne for trips on the Rhine and other German rivers (see Chapter 19). Lufthansa flies nonstop to Munich from Newark. Although no direct flights are scheduled from the U. is Germany’s second-largest airport. Delta currently is the only airline that flies direct to Berlin from New York.

). . particularly to Europe. . keep your eyes open for these has excellent fares worldwide. Every airline offers virtually the same product (basically. but none arrive directly from the United States. is owned by package-holiday . and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. planning ahead pays. Aer Lingus flies nonstop from Dublin. or Thurs). often as high as 50 percent to 75 percent of the ticket price. but you can’t beat the prices. but they often can’t beat the Internet. Getting the best airfare Competition among the major U. reaching the Rhine Valley is easy. STA Travel (% 800-781-4040. stay overnight Saturday. November. Delta offers service from Atlanta via Paris. The airlines also periodically hold sales in which they lower the prices on their most popular routes. Obviously. ELTExpress (Flights. offers good fares for travelers of all ages. and yet prices can vary by hundreds of dollars. airlines is unlike that of any other industry. which tend to take place in seasons of low travel volume: October. Wed. and January through March in Germany. FlyCheap (% 800-FLY-CHEAP [800-359-2432].com). Lufthansa and Continental offer direct flights from Newark. If you can book your ticket far in advance. ߜ Hamburg: Direct flights to Flughafen Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel are scheduled from most major European cities. also known as bucket shops. a coach seat is a coach seat is a . you nevertheless can use the airport in Düsseldorf as an alternative to Cologne. British Midland has flights from London. www.eltexpress.statravel. the world’s leader in student travel. and you’re willing to travel midweek (Tues. are great sources for international tickets. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. As you plan your vacation. such as Frankfurt and Munich.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 65 ߜ Düsseldorf: Although I don’t cover Düsseldorf in this guidebook (the closest city that I cover is Cologne in Chapter 19). These fares have advance-purchase requirements and date-of-travel restrictions. From Düsseldorf. known as the full fare. www. Business travelers who need the flexibility of being able to buy their tickets at the last minute and changing their itineraries at a moment’s notice — and who want to get home before the weekend — pay a premium rate. Consolidators. Bucket-shop tickets usually are nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties. you can qualify for the least-expensive price — usually a fraction of the full fare. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel (% 800/TRAV-800.

To play the frequent-flier game to your best Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline Web sites or check megasites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute direct. Of the smaller travel agency Web given your most common routes. frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday use an opaque fare service like Priceline ( receives good reviews from If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight details.expedia.sidestep. faster response to phone inquiries.) Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same or Hotwire (www.expedia. such as Smarter Travel (smartertravel. often with a mysterious change of planes en route. Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a cent. With more than 70 mileage awards programs on the market.insideflyer. well-known carriers — and the possibility of being sent from New York . U. com). Most are valid for travel only that weekend. Expedia (www. so shopping around is but some can be booked weeks or months in is based in Montreal and leverages the Canadian-dollar exchange rate for low fares. Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the airlines. but it does entitle you to better seats. Travelocity (www.K. Expedia and Travelocity also will send you an e-mail notification whenever a cheap fare to your favorite destination becomes available. The mystery airlines all are sell most air tickets bought on the SideStep (www. and Orbitz ( in the U. and. (Canadian travelers need to try www. which have the most advantageous alliances. and prompter service if your luggage is stolen or your flight is canceled or delayed. Both offer rock-bottom prices in exchange for traveling on a mystery airline at a mysterious time of day. Booking your flight online The “big three” online travel and www. of those carriers. and opodo. Air Tickets Direct (% 888-858-8884. consumers have never had more options. residents can go for expedia. Investigate the program details of your favorite airlines before you sink points into any one. Consider which airlines have hubs in the airport nearest you. For last-minute trips.S. Most of these deals are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased in Europe often have better deals than the major-label sites. www. And you don’t have to fly to earn points. Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends. consult Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www. www. or if you want to change your seat.66 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany megalith MyTravel and has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. and www.priceline. It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once” but in reality beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites do.

Norway. When you’re traveling between countries. and Estonia. Priceline usually has better deals than Hotwire. and Canada.cheapflights.opodo. ߜ www. Its Web site provides useful trip-planning information on train schedules and travel times.S. which usually is conveniently located. have more than one station. www. Arriving by boat Germany’s northern coast lies along the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. Other helpful Web sites for booking airline tickets online include ߜ www.m. flight are pretty high. In every city section of this guide. Trains are very much a part of the German (and European) travel ethic. In Chapter 7. I tell you how to get into the city center from the train station.lastminutetravel. International ferry services are available from the United Kingdom. Major cities. Finland. Arriving by Other Means Germany is accessible by land and provides ferry service from Harwich. fares. such as Berlin and Hamburg. high-speed Thalys trains link Cologne and Düsseldorf with Paris and Brussels. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you buy. Traveling by train Germany is extremely well connected by train to the rest of Europe. EuroCity (EC) trains connect Germany with neighboring countries. to . Perhaps you’re flying into Paris and from there going on to Berlin or Heidelberg as part of your European dream vacation. and from all directions. I discuss traveling around Germany by train and the various rail passes that can cut down on transportation costs. so it’s easy to include Germany as part of a larger European trip. 800-361-7245 in Canada. and rail-pass prices. are taken care of onboard the train. Denmark. Poland.m. contact Rail Europe (% 888-3827245 in the U. but you almost always find one main or central inner-city station called a Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). border formalities. promotional offers.raileurope. but you have to play their “name our price” game.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 67 to Frankfurt via Detroit is remote.kayak. DFDS Seaways (% 800-533-3755. and ߜ www. But your chances of getting a 6 a. ߜ www.biddingfortravel. For more information about trains in Europe. Have no fear. or 11 p. You can reach all major German cities by train with ease.. such as passport checks. England. ߜ www. 114 in the U.

along with finding out whether you have to put down a deposit and when final payment is due. find out what it is and how close they are to reaching it. especially when the tour operator asks you to pay upfront. ask a few simple questions before you buy: ߜ What is the cancellation policy? How late can you cancel if you can’t go? Do you get a refund if you cancel? Do you get a refund if the operator cancels? ߜ How jampacked is the schedule? Does the tour schedule try to fit 25 hours into a 24-hour day. A box lunch may be included in an excursion. so you don’t encounter many surprises. you have no reason to think that the tour operator will fulfill its insurance obligations either. Silja Lines (same telephone and Web site as for DFDS Seaways) sails from Helsinki across the Baltic to Rostock in northern Germany. I strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance. Tour operators may be evasive about providing this fact. but the information can help you select a tour that’s sure to take place. every day and not returning to your hotel until 6 or 7 p. But don’t buy insurance from the tour operator! If the tour operator doesn’t fulfill its obligation to provide you with the vacation you paid for. tour operators may be evasive with their answers. The tour company takes care of all the details and tells you what to expect on each leg of your journey. You know your costs upfront.m. If a quota exists.68 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Hamburg. If you decide to go with an escorted tour. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. ߜ How big is the group? The smaller the group. or does it give you ample time to relax or shop? If getting up at 7 a. but they should be able to give you a rough estimate. (I tell you more about travel insurance in Chapter 10. You may be required to get yourself to and from the airports at your own expense. ߜ What exactly is included? Don’t assume anything. ߜ Does the tour require a minimum group size? Some tour operators require a minimum group size and may cancel the tour when they don’t book enough people. because they may not know the exact size of the group until everybody has made their reservations.) When choosing an escorted tour. Again. the less time you spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. Joining an Escorted Tour Some travelers to foreign destinations prefer escorted tours. sounds like a grind.m. certain escorted tours may not be for you. but drinks . the journey takes 20 hours. Get travel insurance through an independent agency.

com) provides escorted tours in western and southern provides escorted tours for 18.brennanvactions. and the United Kingdom. who then resell them to the public. with no exceptions? Are all your meals planned in advance? Can you choose your entree at dinner. Munich. Many escorted-tour companies cater to special interests. Cologne. Its 12-day European Horizon tour (from $1. including Berlin. and Prague (from $2.maupintour. Beer may be included but not wine. and Mainau (from $2.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 69 may be extra. How much flexibility does the tour offer? Can you opt out of certain activities. ߜ Globus (www. Neuschwanstein and Oberammergau. Black Forest. and transportation to and from the airport costs less than the hotel alone on a tour you book yourself. or does everybody get the same chicken cutlet? Tour operators in the United States Several companies offer escorted tours to Berlin. Munich. The following companies offer escorted tours to Germany: ߜ Brendan Worldwide Vacations (% 800-421-8446. ߜ Brennan Vacations (% 800-237-7249. Potsdam. has an eight-day escorted tour of German Christmas Market Towns from $2. not including airfare. In many cases. a package tour that includes airfare.879 without airfare).649. or does the bus leave once a day. Canada. including a stay in a castle on the Rhine and exploration of German vineyards. such as castles on the Rhine for history buffs.globusjourneys. Choosing a package tour For many destinations. package tours can be a smart way to offers escorted grand and highlight tours that cover most of Germany. . Neuschwanstein. Dresden.959 without airfare).brendan vacations.contiki. That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour 35-year-olds and has offices in the United States. A good travel agent can help you find a tour that suits your particular interests. and Leipzig. 8-country European Magic tour (from $1. ߜ Contiki Holidays (% 866-CONTIKI. Australia. ߜ Maupintour (www. Meissen. Contiki also offers an escorted eight-day Berlin–Prague trip. while others are more general. and destinations in the rest of Germany (or include Germany in a Europe-wide tour).com) offers “Romantic Rhine. www.079 per person double occupancy without airfare) and its 11-day.” a nine-day Rhine cruise that includes visits to vineyards and trips to Cologne and Heidelberg. hotel. an eight-day Bavaria and Bodensee tour with stops in Munich. and a nine-day Berlin-to-Bohemia tour that takes you to Berlin.279 per person double occupancy without airfare) include stops in the Rhine Valley and Munich. www.

ߜ United Vacations (% 800-800-1504. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. .S. You also can rent a car or buy a Eurailpass for train travel. Add-ons include a Munich city tour.deltavacations. Prices depend on your departure city. or go online to www. Locating airline and hotel packages To find package tours. your choice of accommodations and travel days may be limited. such as Travel + vacations. ߜ Delta Vacations (% 800-221-6666. which typically amount to about $80. check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based.nwa worldvacations. Other good sources of package deals are the airlines. is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast and usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers. don’t fly with it. If you’re unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager. www. Liberty Travel (call % 888-271-1584. Munich. Munich. and a day tour of Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace. and Lastminute. The following U. If a packager won’t tell you where it’s based. a daylong Rhine tour from some provide the same hotels for lower prices. and many let you choose the hotel category you want. In some has air/hotel packages to Frankfurt. www. others allow you to add on just a few excursions or escorted daytrips (also at discounted prices) without booking an entirely escorted tour. Airline packages don’t always include airport taxes and surcharges. and Berlin. www. Several big online travel agencies — Expedia. Orbitz.70 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Every package tour is different.bbb. www. ߜ Northwest Airlines World Vacations (% 800-800-1504. airlines offered packages to Germany from the United States in 2006: ߜ Continental Airlines Vacations (% has a hotel/airfare package to Frankfurt from a number of — also do a brisk business in packages. and an array of sightseeing and transportation add-ons. others sell charters. Site59.libertytravel. National Geographic Traveler. departure cities. check out the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper or the ads in the back of national travel magazines. and Condé Nast Traveler. Some let you choose between escorted vacations and independent vacations. offers flight and hotel packages to Frankfurt and Munich. Some book flights on scheduled has air/hotel packages to Berlin. and Frankfurt.

and Canada. customs. By fast train or car. If you want to get a feel for the country. miles) is smaller than the state of Montana (but with more than 80 million people). Stuttgart. you find out more about your travel options within Germany — that is. you can get from Berlin. . From Berlin you can reach Dresden or Leipzig in about two hours. the trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps is only an hour by car and less than 90 minutes by train. in about seven or eight hours. From Munich.734 sq. Heidelberg. km/137. With the area added by reunification. The cities in western Germany — Cologne. to Munich. When you get out of the cities and into the countryside. Australia. in the south. Nuremberg — usually are no more than two or three hours apart by car or train. Germany (356. and language as you travel from one part of Germany to another. in the north.Chapter 7 Getting Around Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling through Germany by train ᮣ Touring the sites by car ᮣ Cruising the rivers of Germany ᮣ Flying from city to city n this chapter. consider exploring at least a portion of Germany that has nothing to do with huge urban Berlin or Munich. Germany is a fairly small country.735 sq. I Weighing the Options: Train or Car? Because of Germany’s comparatively small size and easy-access train and road networks. food. The train trip between Hamburg and Lübeck is less than an hour. where you can sip wine in a small Rhineland village or explore a scenic region like Bavaria. the country is a snap to explore. Compared with the United States. You’ll notice fascinating differences in culture. the mode of travel best suited to your needs and itinerary. the atmospheric charms of Germany are most strongly felt. Many historic towns and castles in Germany are manageable daytrips from larger cities.

and fun. You also can access train information online. I recommend train travel for its convenience.72 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany So should you rent a car or take the train? In almost all cases. enables you to explore the countryside more easily. pronounced shpy-zuhvahg-en) and cafe or bistro cars (for lighter snacks) are on all trains. a train is called an Eisenbahn (eye-sen-bawn) or a Zug (zoog). reaching speeds of 265kmph (165 mph). German Rail in English). high-tech look of the newest trains. individual reading lights. such as the Black Forest (Chapter 17) or the Romantic Road in Bavaria (Chapter 16). long-distance and local train timetables are coordinated to minimize waiting for connections. having a car in scenic areas. What follows is a rundown of the trains that you find within Germany: ߜ InterCity (IC) passenger trains offer express service between all major German cities at intervals of one or two hours. Someone who speaks English will be available to help you. IC trains have adjustable cushioned seats. If you need any kind of train-related information while you’re in Germany — from timetables to fares and special services — call DB’s general information number at % 11861. at DB’s Web site. yes. Traveling by train is a restaurant.bahn. The railway system in Germany is operated by Deutsche Bahn (DB. However. ICE trains run from Hamburg to Munich. www. and convenient. Each train makes stops at cities along the way. ߜ InterCity Express (ICE) trains. Train types The federally owned and operated Deutsche Bahn has been modernizing and upgrading its trains steadily while integrating two different systems (Deutsche Bundesbahn in western Germany and Deutsche Reichsbahn in eastern Germany) into one. ICE trains have telephones. are among the fastest in Europe. in English. speed. On IC trains. Dining cars (Speisewagen. And. enabling passengers to cross the entire country in only a few hours. I recommend traveling by train above all other forms of transportation — especially if you’re a first-time visitor to Germany. and from Berlin to Munich. from Frankfurt to Munich. Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go In Germany. Following basic training Throughout Germany. and a high standard of comfort in both first and second classes. which connect major cities on heavily traveled routes. fun. you can choose whether to sit in a compartment with six seats or in an open saloon coach. German trains almost always run on time. . ICE significantly reduces travel time. and telephone service. You may be surprised by the bright-red.

The night trains have comfortable couchettes (basic sleeping compartments) and some more deluxe sleeping compartments with showers. pronounced raukin) and nonsmoking (nicht rauchen. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations. when you’re onboard the train for seven hours or more. you find a well-marked button that automatically opens the door. S-Bahn (urban light-rail) trains are used. The CNL includes a restaurant and cafe car. among other towns). say. An announcement is made before the train arrives at each station. you may need to open the door by pulling up on a handle. All German trains are divided into smoking (rauchen. The first-class cars have roomier seats. This train operates between Berlin and Zurich (stopping at Frankfurt. First-class service on InterCity Express (ICE) trains includes a higher standard of personal service. Prague. phones for wake-up service. ߜ For shorter local trips. and Dortmund and Vienna. The Ruhesessel (sleeper chair) category offers open saloon seating with reclining seats. Eurail and GermanRail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation. Hamburg and Zurich. and a panoramic window with blinds. Brussels. Station stops are short. You may appreciate the difference on long-distance journeys — from Berlin to Munich. and Freiburg. pronounced nickt rau-kin) sections. usually within a suburban area around a large town. you can order beverages and snacks that . Berlin and Dresden. which now sometimes is called standard class. First-class tickets cost about one-third more than second class. fewer passengers. In other trains.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 73 ߜ The CityNightLine (CNL) is one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe. Economy provides a four-bed compartment with washing facilities (you can book this class as a single or double). ߜ DB Nachtzug (Night Train) service is available between many cities in Germany and continues on to Amsterdam. you may need to transfer to a RegionalBahn (RB) train to reach your destination. Ticket classes German trains have a two-tiered ticket system: first class (Erste Klasse) and second class (Zweite Klasse). You can specify your preference when reserving your seat. key cards. Comfort Single or Double gives you a singleor double-bed compartment with washing facilities. and a more luxurious feel. For some outof-the-way places. Paris. Sleeping accommodations in Deluxe include compartments with a shower and toilet. RegionalExpress (RE) trains link rural areas to the long-distance rail network. In new high-speed trains. Baden-Baden. and Copenhagen. But you can travel quite comfortably in second class. so have your luggage in hand and be ready to disembark when the train comes to a halt. The CNL offers four different categories.

If your train leaves at 4:20 p. The station always is a main link in the city’s public transportation system. heavy bags. and track numbers. 14:00 (2 p. Hotels are always close at hand. You ride in a sleeper compartment on the train. Like other European trains. Heading to the Hauptbahnhof A German city’s Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). In large cities. prominently placed departure and arrival boards list train numbers. getting to your track without help may be difficult. you can check your luggage (Gepäck. arrival or departure times. stowed elsewhere. porters (recognized by their red or blue uniforms) can transport your luggage. which sometimes have a ramp for luggage trolleys and baby carriages. But in others. an employee comes through both first. final destinations. Local and commuter trains don’t have food service. At larger stations. German train stations in major cities offer all kinds of services. and so on. The German word for arrival is Ankunft (on-koonft).m. 15:00 (3 p. you need to find the right track (Gleis.m.m. Auto trains If you want to avoid long-distance driving but need a car after you arrive at your destination. Therefore. pronounced geh-peck) at a luggage checkroom. tram. you can take an elevator to the track level. the German train system works on a 24-hour clock. food and beverages. the time on the schedule reads 16:20. you can pick up your car and go. or main train station. train times can be 13:00 (1 p. and not spending the night.and second-class passengers otherwise use the same dining cars and cafe cars for buying sandwiches and drinks. light-rail. Although less common. daytime automobile trains also operate. newsstands. Midnight always is listed as 0:00 hours and noon is 12:00.m.) Getting off on the right track After arriving at the station. This information also is posted as a printed schedule in the station. rarely is more than a few minutes’ walk from the historic town center and all the main attractions.25). On some trains. comes along for the ride. and usually a tourist information office. or you can use self-service luggage trolleys available for 1€ ($1. or bus from there. you must climb stairs. pronounced glice) for your departing train.).). you can take yourself and your car on an overnight car-sleeper Auto Train. First. while your automobile.). When you reach your destination. If you’re loaded down with several large. . including currency exchange.74 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany are brought to your seat.m. In many German train stations. (Just another way of saying: Don’t overpack. If you’re arriving in a city for sightseeing only.. departure is Abfahrt (ob-fahrt).).and second-class cars with a food-and-beverage trolley. so you can continue your local explorations by subway. up to 23:59 (11:59 p.

178 Piccadilly. they can’t be purchased after you arrive in Germany or the rest of Europe. pronounced plotz) reservation and buy train tickets (Fahrkarten. You’re issued a ticket that lists the Wagen (car) number and the Platz (seat) number. the only free seat you find may be in the smoking area or out in the hallway (I speak from experience). second-class. the seat reservation costs 3€ ($3. Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Germany and continental Otherwise. even if you have a Eurailpass or German Rail Pass. You can also find exact fares on Deutsche Bahn’s Web site. or 800/361-7245 in Canada. If you have a Eurailpass. make your way to the platform areas where the first. www. The Wagen numbers correspond with numbers or letters on the platform. or Wagen (vah-ghen). or Canadian dollars) of fares between destinations within Germany.S. and restaurant cars. look for the Reisezentrum (travel center). or far-karten) at any train station. London WI . Travel agents throughout the United States and Canada sell all the rail passes described later in this section. www. Saving time and euros with rail passes Rail passes are tickets that enable you to travel for a certain number of days without buying a ticket for each leg of your journey.raileurope.S. In larger stations. Reserving your seat When traveling for any distance in Germany. the staff usually speaks English and can answer any questions you have..K. www. do a little research to find out whether it’s going to save you money. They help you save time (ticket lines can be long) and. money. Diagrams posted on the platform show the layout of first-class. If you have a German Rail Pass or a Eurailpass (see the next section). is always a good idea. Each car. In larger stations. You can make a seat (Platz. In smaller stations. reserving your seat in advance. com. and you’re risking a journey without a seat reservation. At Rail Europe’s Web site. Or stop in at the Rail Europe Travel Centre. usually. You can check out passes and prices at Rail Europe’s U. raileurope. Trains can be very long. is numbered. Web site: second-class cars will stop. you can click on “Fares and Schedules” and get an estimated cost (in U. so you want to be near the appropriate area for boarding when your train pulls into the station. Before you buy a rail pass.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 75 If you have a reserved seat.75). your ticket lists the car and seat number. Check the diagram and then make your way to the appropriate area of the platform before the train arrives. Most rail passes must be purchased before you leave home. usually 1 to 6 or A to G. which allows you to order by phone or online.raileurope. but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. make your booking at the ticket counter.

$510 for 21 days. each additional day costs $38 first class. and $1. German Rail Passes for kids ages 6 to 11 are half the adult price.108 for 3 months. for two adults (they do not have to be married and can be of the same sex) traveling together in first or second class. including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth.K). you can purchase a Eurailpass Youth. or 800-361-7245 in Canada). Sample prices: $163 for four days. and free travel on KD German Line steamers (daytrips only) along the Rhine. including destinations not serviced by trains. Main. including Germany. German Rail Passes are most conveniently available from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. Rail Europe also provides cost-effective “Rail ’n Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car. Children younger than 6 travel free. $25 second class. with additional days available for a reduced price. These passes are for consecutive days of travel. The second pass represents a 50 percent savings over single prices. and Mosel rivers. If you’re younger than 26. you can purchase the passes online at www. $897 for 2 months. With a Eurailpass you can enjoy unlimited first-class rail travel in 18 countries. and then rent a car for a two-day excursion into the Bavarian Alps to see Ludwig’s castles. A German Rail Youth Pass is valid only for persons younger than 26 years of age and is available only in second class.S. A German Rail Pass also entitles the bearer to free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus. are available only to travelers younger than 26 years of age. The 15-day Eurailpass costs $605. Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe The Eurailpass is one of Europe’s best bargains. Passes are for periods as short as 15 days or as long as 3 months. $634 for 1 each additional day $13. A four-day pass costs $263 first class or $200 second class. .. An even bigger bargain is the German Rail Twinpass. German rail passes: For Deutschland only The German Rail Pass allows for four consecutive or nonconsecutive days of travel in one month within Germany. these passes allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.raileurope.76 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany (% 08708/371-371 in the U. Some of the most popular passes. For instance. you can ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich. Sample prices per person: $200 for four days first class or $150 for second class. entitling you to unlimited second-class travel for $394 for 15 days. spend three days exploring the city.

and other non–European Union countries must have a valid driver’s license. Canada. and Benzin I’m a Zug (train) nut. www. keep in mind that you may get a better rate if you reserve the car at least seven days in advance.raileurope. for example — where even I succumb to car rental to explore the countryside.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 77 Eurailpasses can be bought and used only by non-European residents. See the appendix for a list of names and contact information. However. Several international car-rental firms rent cars in Germany. including the Eurail Pass Flexi. Touring by Car: Autobahns. Prepaying rentals in dollars before leaving the United States offers some advantages. Australia. however. A host of different Eurailpass options are available. Renting a car in Germany Renting a car is fairly easy in Germany. and the Black Forest. from a travel agent or from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. the Bodensee. Drivers from the United States. Eurailpass Saver for two to five persons traveling together. good for first-class travel for 10 or 15 days in a 2-month period. I recommend that you make all the arrangements before you leave home. You can often rent a car in one German city and return the vehicle in another city for no additional charge. . Remember. If you’re going to tour Germany by car. you have to go through some rather complicated paperwork (and. have to pay a penalty of around $25) for changing or canceling a prepaid contract. the rental process is more streamlined. To me. Tankstellen. Whenever you rent. Buy your Eurailpass before you leave home. four. allowing travelers to select three. in some cases. You can pick up your car at most airports and major train stations. and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. You get an easy-to-understand net price (which you have to prepay by credit card at least 14 days before departure). The night trains have couchettes (sleeping cars). and Eurail Selectpass. Eurailpass holders also are entitled to considerable reductions on certain buses and ferries. or 800361-7245 in Canada.S. Seat reservations are required on some trains. nothing is more pleasant than sitting in a train and watching the countryside roll by. you may want to pick up a copy of Frommer’s Germany’s Best-Loved Driving Tours (Wiley). that if you opt to prepay and your plans change. or at an office within German cities. or five countries linked by rail or which cost extra. Germany has scenic regions — the Romantic Road. but no other special license is required..

In eastern Germany. which are available at all major bookstores throughout Germany. If you rent a car in Germany. In theory. the Autobahn does not have a speed limit (in the left. The Bundesstrassen in the major touring areas of the Romantic Road in at the same time you book your German Rail Pass or Eurailpass (see “Saving time and euros with rail passes. www. by the letter B (examples: A96. right lane. If you don’t have a CDW and have an accident. Some credit cards (especially platinum and gold cards) cover the CDW. so call your company to check on these benefits before you spend the extra money on additional insurance. in general. A German driver on the Autobahn can be like one possessed. or 800-361-7245 in Canada. finding your way by looking for directional signs rather than highway number signs is easier. See Table 7-1 for a few important words that you should know. and the Black Forest are smoothly paved and kept in good repair. Michelin publishes the best regional maps. They offer a German Rail ’n Drive option that gives you two days of unlimited train travel (first or second class) and two days of Hertz car rental within one month. Germany’s road signs are standard international signs. Hallweg also produces good road maps. but many drivers going too fast report that they’ve been stopped by police and fined on the spot. some secondary and local roads are not in good shape. so if your own car insurance doesn’t cover you abroad. individual Autobahns are indicated by the letter A followed by a number.. so you may prefer the slower. A Collision-Damage Waiver (CDW) is an optional insurance policy that can be purchased when you sign a rental agreement. fast lane). B31). You can purchase extra days for both train travel and car rental. So exercise reasonable caution.78 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany You can also rent a car through Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. another passenger. you’ll pay for all damages up to the cost of actually replacing the vehicle.raileurope.S. or someone else. and Bundesstrassen. . Neither the CDW nor credit-card companies cover liability if you injure yourself. The Bundesstrassen (state roads) vary in quality from region to region. In this book. I recommend that you purchase all the optional insurance coverage. consider taking out Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) for extra liability coverage. Taking the roads less traveled The roads that make up the Autobahn (pronounced otto-bahn) form Germany’s main long-distance highway network. the Rhine Valley.” earlier in this chapter). The government recommends an Autobahn speed limit of 130kmph (80 mph). However.

Children younger than 4 must ride in a car seat. And I mean fast. German motorists generally flash their lights if they want you to move over so they can pass. . the left lane is the fast lane.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 79 Table 7-1 German Anfang Ausfahrt Baustelle Einbahnstrasse Einfahrt Ende Gefahr Links einbiegen Rechts einbiegen Verengte Fahrbahn Vorsicht German Road Signs English Translation Start. A kilometer is 0. and a mile is 1.62 of a mile.62km. ߜ The law requires that all passengers wear seat belts. ߜ You can pass other vehicles only on the left. or roadwork One-way street Entrance End Danger Turn left Turn right Road narrows Attention! Look out! Following the rules of the road If you’re going to drive in Germany. Children younger than 12 must sit on booster seats in the back so that regular seat belts can be used safely. ߜ Unless posted differently. you need to know a few general facts: ߜ Signs show distances and speed limits in kilometers (km) and kilometers per hour (kmph). speed limits are • 50kmph (30 mph) in towns • 100kmph (60 mph) on regular highways • 130kmph (78 mph) on Autobahns ߜ On Autobahns. or beginning Exit Building site. Do not drive in this lane unless you are passing another car.

Super Bleifrei (super unleaded). You fill your tank and pay inside at the counter. On the Autobahn. Look for parking lots and parking garages outside the center. They are always identified by a large P. Emergency assistance is free. called Benzin (ben-seen). Filling up the tank of a medium-sized car will usually cost about 60€ ($75). The cheapest gasoline is at stations marked SB-TANKEN (Selbstbedienung. called Tankstelle (tonk-shtel-leh) appear frequently along the Autobahns. Am Westpark 8. Sailing through Germany: River Cruises Germany’s major river is the Rhine. . expensive.80 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ You must use low-beam headlights at night and during fog. Handling a roadside emergency The major automobile club in Germany is Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobile Club (ADAC). and snowfalls. But remember that gas is always much more expensive than in the United States. don’t risk driving. If you have a breakdown on the Autobahn. ߜ Parking in the center of most big towns is difficult. If you don’t belong to an auto club. but you pay for parts and materials. in some larger cities. Super Plus Bleifrei (supreme unleaded). In English. ߜ You must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. you can call ADAC from an emergency phone. or self-service). 81373 München (% 089/ 76760). ߜ Driving while intoxicated and drinking while driving are very serious offenses in Germany. call ADAC’s breakdown service at % 01802/222-222. You insert coins (or credit cards) to purchase a certain amount of time. Fill ’er up. which flows through the heart of Europe from the Alps to the North Sea. If you’ve had more than a glass of wine or beer. you find emergency phones every 2km (about 11⁄4 miles). more castles were built in the Rhine Valley than in any other valley in the world. ask for “road service assistance” (Strassenwachthilfe). The self-service process is basically the same as that of the United States. The types of gasoline are Normal Bleifrei (regular unleaded). bitte (please) Gasoline. or just plain impossible. Most parking lots use an automated ticket system. Through the centuries. heavy rain. because most historic town centers are for pedestrians only. the point of the black triangle on posts alongside the road indicates the direction of the nearest phone. is readily available throughout Germany. they have the right of way. signs on the way into town indicate how much space is available in various lots or parking garages. and gas stations. and diesel.

but other European carriers are increasing their German domestic routes. A trip that normally takes seven or eight hours by train or car takes about an hour by plane. Flying doesn’t make much sense if you’re traveling short distances between cities that are connected by high-speed trains. www. and Canada. 01803/803-803 in Germany. I tell you about river excursions along the Mosel and Neckar rivers and local sightseeing cruises in Berlin. waiting for your departure. say. and then getting into the city after your plane lands . Itineraries range from 2 to 20 nights. or from Cologne in the west to Leipzig in the east. VA 22314 (% 800-348-8287. which begins in the Czech Republic. The Main flows from the Danube. In the city and regional chapters of this guidebook. www. The train from Frankfurt to Stuttgart.lufthansa. Dresden. Hamburg or Berlin in the north to Munich in the south. . past Frankfurt. but when you factor in time spent getting to the airport. Alexandria. 21820 Burbank Blvd. You can fly this route.rivercruises. in the city center. The Elbe. . Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? Flying from city to city within Germany makes sense if you’re traveling from. situated on tributaries of the Elbe are Berlin and Hamburg. . you may want to consider this option. Viking KD River Cruises and Peter Deilman EuropAmerica Cruises offer several cruises along these three great waterways. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. Woodland Hills. by train. takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. and enters the Rhine at the city of Mainz.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 81 This area has great appeal to visitors. going through security. 1800 Diagonal Rd. www. The downside is that you won’t see the or www.. or Peter Deilmann EuropAmerica Cruises. Cologne.. For more information.S. for offers the most extensive and frequent flights within the country. If you’re looking for an unusual and relaxing way to see Germany. and continues northeastward.deilmanncruises. com). and Heidelberg. Suite 170. flows past the great art city of Dresden.lufthansa. you can already be there. cuts through Germany’s eastern border in a beautiful area called Saxon Switzerland (see Chapter 14). mostly between April and October but with some in December. CA 91367 (% 877-66VIKING [845464].com). Lufthansa (% 800-645-3880 in the U. Frankfurt.

Frankfurt. wherever you are. . Booking ahead isn’t as important in the rest of Germany.Chapter 8 Booking Your Accommodations In This Chapter ᮣ Checking out the options ᮣ Getting the best room for the best rate ᮣ Surfing for cyberdeals ᮣ Landing a room without a reservation T his chapter deals with that age-old question asked by every traveler going to an unfamiliar country or city: Where should I spend the night? Everyone travels differently. finding a room may be as simple as spotting a sign in a house window that reads Zimmer frei (room available). but I still recommend doing so — particularly when you’re going to be spending a Friday or Saturday night in a major tourist spot like Dresden or Füssen. like Berlin and Munich. Berlin. how to book a room online. what to expect in each category. and other cities throughout the country play host to large trade fairs and special events that make hotel rooms scarce. especially in the middle of winter. and how to get the best deal for your money. Cologne. In a small village. During off season. also fill up quickly during high season. Hotels in popular tourist areas. booking your hotel room ahead is essential — especially if you’re going to be in Munich during Oktoberfest. Throughout the year. hotels in the inexpensive-to-moderate range always are first to be snapped up. you find out about German hotels — how to find them. Munich. and the Bodensee (Lake Constance). In the following pages. and again in December (the period that constitutes high season). the Rhine and Mosel valleys. you won’t have a problem booking a room on the spot. In Germany’s large cities. such as the Black Forest. From April through September. and every country offers its own lodging possibilities. near Ludwig’s castles.

so the service ends up costing nothing. Breakfast (Frühstück) always is included in the price of a room. Smoke-free rooms and smoke-free floors finally are catching on in Germany. you find a Decke on each side. a roll with butter and jam. can help you find a room. you find a Decke (deck-uh) on the bed. At hotels. The term for “no smoking” is nicht rauchen (nickt rau-kin). buttoned within a sheet. an egg. Some places charge nothing. Hotel associations. You’re most likely to find them in midrange to high-end hotels. Even the smallest Pension (bed-and-breakfast. pastries. You find all types of lodging. fruit. others charge a small fixed fee (usually no more than 3€/$3. small family-run hotels. but you get that back at the hotel. depending on the size and degree of luxury. yogurt. Finding the Place That’s Right for You Germany has very high standards for hotels and inns. A Decke is what Americans call a comforter or duvet. or B&B) must open its doors for inspection to be able to list and rent rooms. cozy inns. takes the place of blankets. A five-star hotel is a luxury property with an on-site spa or pool and a rate at the top end of the price spectrum. In a pension.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 83 Tourist information centers. These same state agencies and tourist boards rate hotels according to a star system. You won’t find a speck of Schmutz (dirt) in any of them.75). rustic guesthouses. fresh bread. regional tourist associations. chain hotels. and simple rooms in private homes and apartments. eggs. located in or near the main train stations in all German cities and towns. . except at some boutique and high-end luxury hotels. This light. and some cold cuts. feather-filled covering. and local tourist boards control standards in all categories of accommodations. I don’t use that star-rating system in this book. and others charge 10 percent of the first night’s hotel rate. If two beds are joined to make a double. I try to give you the best options in different price categories. breakfast is more likely to be a self-serve buffet with juice. and smoked fish or pickled herring. instead. from luxury old-world palaces and super-high-tech showoffs to hip boutique hotels. breakfast may be coffee. A one-star hotel is basic and inexpensive. Most tourist information centers also have a free directory of local accommodations. In all types of accommodations in Germany. cold cuts. The system isn’t used to recommend hotels but rather simply to categorize them according to their amenities. cereal. Charges for this service vary. But remember that Europeans in general are not as committed to smokefree environments as are Americans.

which you can find in every chapter’s hotel listings and in the appendix. Breakfast may or may not be included. Expect to pay 175€ ($219) and up. I describe each type. Amenities typically include brand-name toiletries. highspeed and wireless Internet access. The rooms themselves are generally spacious and beautifully furnished with amenities such as a minibar. and bathrobes. but they are beautifully fitted out. Small Luxury Hotels. which often are the best restaurants in town. These establishments often are part of hotel associations. and Romantic Hotels. The Bleibtreu in Berlin (Chapter 11) is big on hip. Hotel Brandenburger Hof in Berlin (Chapter 11) emphasizes a sleek. Rooms and bathrooms are not always large. Bathrooms are large and well equipped with magnifying mirrors. high-speed and wireless Internet access. The staff is unusually welcoming and the service impeccable. and Treff Hotels. tubs (often with whirlpools) and showers. Boutique hotels always have a fine-dining restaurant and a bar. Inter-Continental. Chain hotels Holiday Inn. such as Relais & Châteaux. Pricewise. Radisson SAS. Some brand-name hotel chains — Hyatt. in particular — have properties in this luxury category. but also look for special weekend rates on the hotels’ Web sites. 24-hour room service is available. Best Western. What you don’t get is a free breakfast. Ringhotels. a couple of phones. For the . satellite TV. Swissôtel. European. usually with a sauna and pool. The hotel has at least two fine gourmet restaurants. you have several different kinds of hotels and accommodations from which to choose. a minibar. Sheraton. Mercure. Boutique hotels generally have fewer than 70 rooms and offer a unique ambience and high level of personalized service. German. contemporary design. Porters are available to take your luggage up to your room (tip 1€/$1. Luxury hotels Public spaces in luxury hotels are sophisticated and elegant. Park Plaza/ Art’otel. Boutique hotels Think of them as small luxury hotels. Le Meridien. Each one has its own personality. Travel Charme. Kempinski. Ramada — names you probably know — all have hotels in Germany. beginning with the most expensive.84 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In Germany. the Hotel Excelsior Ernst in Cologne (Chapter 22) and the Hotel Adlon in Berlin (Chapter 22) are two of the most luxurious luxury hotels. and high-quality toiletries. and international chains include Accor. InterCity Hotels (always near train stations). Your bed is turned down at night. and Steigenberger. Mövenpick. Der Kleine Prinz in Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) is built around oldfashioned luxury. Charges for the (fabulous) breakfast buffet are anywhere from 17€ to 22€ ($21–$27). classic Bauhaus style. and the property has an on-site health club. cable and satellite TV.25 per bag). and bathrobes. In the following sections. telephone. Most boutique hotels are too small to have a pool or health club but may have an arrangement with a nearby facility. they generally cost 150€ ($188) and up.

a word sometimes attached to a hotel’s name. . expect to pay anywhere from 110€ to 175€ ($137–$219). Amenities include a telephone. and sometimes a minibar.or three-star rating by the local tourist authority. and somewhat anonymous. or in the country than in large cities. Smaller independent hotels Many small and medium-sized hotels in Germany are family owned and operated. The rooms themselves often are charming — what you’d typically expect in an old-world inn.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 85 most part. Guesthouses A guesthouse. means that breakfast is the only meal the hotel serves. The Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg and Feriengasthof Helmer in Schwangau (see Chapter 16 for both) are examples of this kind of accommodations. You’re more likely to find guesthouses in small towns. Some rooms have small private bathrooms with showers or bathtubs. lunch. but your rate will include breakfast. depending on the time of year and the presence of trade shows or conventions. you find a telephone and cable TV. is basically an inn with a restaurant that serves breakfast. chain hotels offer brand-name familiarity and dependable service. Tour packagers and convention planners often house their groups in chain hotels. In general. The rooms are smaller and have a more standardized décor than rooms in luxury hotels. cable TV. usually no more than three total. Bathrooms are smaller and less glamorous than the ones in a luxury or boutique hotel property. You probably won’t find a telephone in your room or too many amenities. Prices for a small to midsize independent hotel range from 85€ to 175€ ($106–$219). some with breakfast included. Prices vary greatly for chain hotels. Rates at small and midsize properties always include a buffet breakfast. Shopping around on the Web may net you some big savings. comfortable rooms without much personality but at hard-to-beat prices. enormous. have just a few rooms. and the hotel often has an on-site pool or health club with sauna. and many of the properties are older and located in the oldest and most picturesque quarters of the city. Rates are typically from 55€ to 110€ ($69–$137). and dinner to hotel guests and outside patrons. The restaurant occupies the main or first floor. which typically are given a two. other rooms have sinks but share bathrooms and showers in the hallway. The inn may also offer a special rate for dinner or lunch and dinner. They also tend to be newish. The ambience tends to be rustic and cozy. You generally find different room categories. Garni. In these hotels. and the upper floors. Most guesthouses don’t have an elevator. called a Gasthaus (gahst-house) or a Gasthof (gahsthofe). Room service is available. Properties like Hotel Jedermann in Munich (Chapter 15) or Hotel-Garni Brugger in Lindau (Chapter 17) offer basic. in medium-sized cities.

On the other hand. In all but the smallest accommodations. (See Chapter 3 for more information on Germany’s different seasons. Room rates (even rack rates) change with the season.) But . Perhaps the best way to avoid paying the rack rate is surprisingly simple: Just ask for a cheaper or discounted rate. rooms start around 30€ ($37) per person per night. Keep in mind that many pensions operate on a cash-only basis. Some half a million beds are available in private homes across the country. A pension is the same as a B&B (bed-and-breakfast): a room in a private home or apartment. or you may have to share the bathroom. Prices aren’t negotiable at smaller hotels. Sept. Pension Niebuhr in Berlin (Chapter 11) is a good big-city pension. the central reservations number may not know about discount rates at specific locations. and Dec). you’ll probably pay more. as occupancy rates rise and fall. A travel agent may be able to negotiate a better price with certain hotels than you can get by yourself. although some of these properties do offer special rates for longer stays. In smaller towns. but you can almost always do better. pensions. prices are higher in large cities. you can also use the kitchen. and in some cases. Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. with breakfast included in the price. often advertised with a simple sign: Zimmer frei (room available). You may luck out and find a place with a private bathroom. If you travel in the high season (Apr–June.86 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Pensions The Pension (pronounced pen-see-own in Germany) has long been the backbone of budget travel in Germany. Amenities vary from place to place.) Reserving a room through the hotel’s toll-free number also may result in a lower rate than calling the hotel directly. You may be pleasantly surprised. Hotels are happy to charge you the rack rate. It’s the rate you get if you walk in off the street and ask for a room for the night. and guesthouses. but you generally won’t have a phone. Breakfast always is included in the price. so you may or may not have a TV. considered high season elsewhere in Europe. the rate you pay for a room depends on many factors — chief among them being how you make your reservation. You sometimes see these rates printed on the fire/emergency-exit diagrams posted on the back of your door. In Germany. (That’s because the hotel often gives the agent a discount in exchange for steering his business toward that hotel. hotel rates usually go down in July and August. Your best bet is to call both the local number and the toll-free number and see which one gives you a better deal.

Also reliable are Hotels. . Travelweb ( and Quikbook. In the meantime. More than once. Of the “big three” To be fair. travelers have arrived at the hotel only to be told that they have no Be sure to mention membership in AAA. getting a confirmation number and making a printout of any online booking transactions are good practices. including the taxes and service charges. Hyatt. because prices can vary considerably from site to site. can help you search multiple hotel sites at once — even ones you may never have heard of — and conveniently lists the total price of the room.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 87 even within a given season. so the rates quoted in this book may be different from the actual rate you receive when you make your reservation. a good portion of which get misplaced in the shuffle. and any corporate rewards programs you can think of when you call to book. competing for the business of millions of consumers surfing for accommodations around the world. Another booking site.travelaxe. Travelocity posts unvarnished customer reviews and ranks its properties according to the AAA rating system. You never know when the affiliation may be worth a few euros off your room rate. These Internet hotel agencies have multiplied in mind-boggling numbers of late. AARP. TravelAxe (www. Surfing the Web for hotel deals Shopping online for hotels generally is done one of two ways: by booking through the hotel’s own Web site or through an independent booking agency (or a fare-service agency like Priceline). room prices are subject to change without notice. and Expedia soon will be able to plug directly into the reservations systems of many hotel chains. is partly owned by the hotels it represents (including the Hilton. An excellent free program. frequent-flier programs. And keep in mind that hotels at the top of a site’s listing may be there for no other reason than that they paid money to get the placement. For more tips about how to get the best room rate. many of the major sites are undergoing improvements in service and ease of This competitiveness can be a boon to consumers who have the patience and time to shop for and compare the online sites for good deals — but shop they must. Expedia offers a long list of special deals and virtual tours or photos of available rooms so you can see what you’re paying for. and Starwood chains) and is therefore plugged directly into the hotels’ reservations systems — unlike independent online agencies that have to fax or e-mail reservation requests to the hotel. see the information about choosing a tour package in Chapter 6.

it sometimes has rooms at hotels that are sold out. Because the site prebooks blocks of rooms. you may be better off using a site devoted primarily to lodging. Call its toll-free number (% 800-364-0801) if you want more options than the Web site lists Priceline is even better for booking hotels than it is for booking flights. another good site if you can read German.88 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In addition to Travelocity. check prices and availability. Orbitz. Some lodging sites specialize in a particular type of accommodations. The following list includes sites that enable you to make online reservations at hotels throughout Germany: ߜ Hotel Discounts (www. you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel before offering up your money. ߜ Hotel Online (www. You can find a B&B in Berlin or the Black Web site (www. such as B& In the opaque Web site category. look at images of the ߜ www. focuses on family hotels all across Germany that are managed according to ecological principles and have gastronomic flair. and then e-mail the innkeeper if you have questions. and Orbitz) offer hotel booking. ߜ InnSite ( is a site that you may want to use if you can read German. Expedia. you pay upfront.landidyll. before bidding on a hotel room on ߜ Expedia. ߜ Landidyll (www. and Hotwire. which you won’t find on the more mainstream booking services. On the downside. it features a fairly up-to-date list of hotels that Priceline uses in major cities. and the fee is nonrefundable. Although the major travel booking sites (Frommer’s.travelweb.innsite. including Germany. For lists bargain rates at hotels throughout Germany. Go to the BiddingForTravel.180096hotel. . many hotels stick Priceline guests in their least desirable rooms. the following Web sites will help you with booking hotel rooms online: ߜ www. Note: Some hotels don’t provide loyalty-program credits or points or other frequent-stay amenities when you book a room through opaque online provides B&B listings for inns in dozens of countries around the globe. Priceline. It features independent hotels throughout Germany and northern Europe that are a good value for your money.hotelonline. You often find properties not listed with more general online travel agencies. Priceline is much better at getting five-star lodging for three-star prices than at finding anything at the bottom of the ߜ www.biddingfortravel.tripadvisor.

com) lists more than 16. offer weekend deals at many leading chains.srs-worldhotels. they should be happy to accommodate you. asking a few more pointed questions can go a long way toward making sure you get the best room in the house. ߜ Travelweb (www. ߜ Ask whether the hotel is renovating. . and have more windows and light than standard rooms. If they have another room. request a room away from the renovation work. You can book almost 90 percent of these accommodations online. and they don’t always cost more. within reason. including first-class and resort hotels throughout Germany. Finally. if you aren’t happy with your room when you has about 450 hotels worldwide. Reserving the best room After you make your reservation. You can check for special discounted and weekend rates at many great German hotels. and focuses on chains such as Hyatt and Hilton.000 hotels worldwide. if it is. ߜ Always ask for a corner room. ߜ Inquire about the location of the restaurants. including Germany.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 89 ߜ SRS-Worldhotels (www. talk to the front desk. bars. updated each Monday. quieter. Its Click-It Weekends. and discos in the hotel — all sources of annoying noise. They’re usually larger.

children). But family travel can be immensely rewarding. Seniors may like to take advantage of discounts or tours designed especially for Jewish visitors may want to visit Holocaust memorials and worship in a synagogue. from toddlers to teens. People with disabilities need to ensure that sites on their itineraries are barrierfree. de or www. Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families Germany is a pretty kid-friendly country. In this chapter. Parents may want to take their children along on trips. dragging them thousands of miles away to a country where a different language is spoken may seem like an insurmountable challenge. The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www.germany-tourism.Chapter 9 Catering to Special Needs or Interests In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling with your kids ᮣ Discovering discounts and special tours for seniors ᮣ Locating wheelchair-accessible attractions ᮣ Finding lesbigay communities and special events ᮣ Tracing Germany’s Jewish history M any of today’s travelers have special interests or needs. giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes. with its section on family travel is a good place to begin researching your trip. is a challenge — no doubt about it. . If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning. but traveling anywhere with Kinder (kin-der. Gays and lesbians may want to know about welcoming places and events. I offer advice and resources for all these travelers.cometogermany. Expensive. an award-winning site that offers travel features. The establishment may bring in an extra cot or let you share a larger room. may present problems. For information on passport requirements for children. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. deals. always check to see whether the attraction offers a money-saving family ticket. in Germany you don’t see many families dining in expensive TravelWithYourKids (www. If you’re traveling with children. high-toned restaurants in Germany are not particularly welcoming toward young children. In larger cities. find these food chains in smaller villages and towns.familytravelnetwork.thefamilytravelfiles. Younger teens traveling in Berlin and Munich may want to check out the Hard Rock Cafe in those cities. even when the place welcomes kids. youngsters. restaurants. and tips. Kids younger than 6 almost always get in for free.S. which considerably reduces the admission price for a group of two adults and two or more children. Ask questions before you withyourkids. Locating family-friendly businesses Most German hotels happily accommodate your family if you reserve your rooms in advance and make the staff aware that you’re traveling with kids. .com). The menus aren’t geared to the tastes of U. Munich. such as cramped rooms and shared toilet facilities. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. You won’t. or bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs).Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 91 You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Forum (www. and Family Travel Files (www. In fact. you can keep costs down by eating at lowkey. Admission prices for attractions throughout Germany are reduced for children ages 6 to 14. including Burger King and McDonald’ Family Travel Network (www. Look for the Kid Friendly icon as you flip through this book. local restaurants. The same is true for public transportation: Low-priced family or group tickets usually are available. and attractions that are particularly family friendly. Berlin. and midsize German cities have American-style fast-food places. children ages 6 to 11 pay half the adult fare. I use it to highlight hotels. these types of arrangements are common. Zeroing in on these places can help you plan your trip more quickly and easily. which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families. On trains. Smaller pensions.familytravelforum. and children younger than 6 travel free. see Chapter 10. and the staff can be less than welcoming to children who are not well behaved.

Being a senior may entitle you to some terrific travel bargains. What are your options? Ask your hotel staff whether they can recommend a local baby-sitting service. If not. Germany’s ever-present Wurst (voorst. Therefore. Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors Germany won’t present any problems for you if you’re a senior who gets around easily. the selection may not include as many presweetened varieties as in the United States. In the evening. . less-expensive pensions and guesthouses — have elevators. such as lower prices for German Rail Passes and reduced admission at museums and other attractions. ask whether you’ll have access to an elevator or a Fahrstuhl (far-shtool). when you plan your trip. as they’re called in Germany.92 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany The best of the Wurst Your time in Germany may be a good opportunity to introduce your kids to some dishes that they’ve never tried. Note: In Germany. and familiarizing themselves with the sounds of the German language and learning at least a few words. everyone can spend an hour together. many of the top museums offer audio guides in English. When you reserve a hotel. even if the reduction isn’t posted. Always ask. But you can’t take Junior along on this special evening. bear in mind that most German museums do not translate their signage and texts into English. However. you may find that some discounts are available only for German or EU (European Union) residents. For something more familiar. You can spur your kids’ interest (and your own) by buying a German language tape or checking one out from the library. The staircases in some places are a test for anyone with luggage. Carrying an ID with proof of age can pay off in all these situations. Most of the hotels marked with a Kid Friendly icon in this book can help arrange baby-sitting. a trip to a museum may try the patience of those children who can’t understand what they’re reading. sausage) is 100 percent meat with no filler. however. When considering museums. listening to the tape. be aware that not all hotels — particularly smaller. kids can choose from a selection of cereals at most buffet breakfasts in hotels. Hiring a baby sitter in Germany What you really need is an exciting evening at the opera and a romantic late dinner with a glass of fine German wine.

and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers. discerning traveler. www. mostly of the tour-bus variety but also including river cruises along the Rhine and Mosel. hassle-free ways to learn while offers people 55 and older a variety of university-based education programs in Berlin and throughout Germany. 601 E St. private-jet adventures. tuition. INTRAV (% 800-456-8100. tips. with trips around the world that include guided safaris. Elderhostel (% 877-426-8056) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries around the world. accommodations.gct. www. 101 Tips for Mature Travelers. . meals. including discounts on US Airways flights to Frankfurt and Munich from several U. cities and discounts on escorted tours from Globus and Cosmos. The price includes airfare. www.” and “The Rhine and Mosel River Valleys. With a annual membership of around $13 (anyone 50 or older can join). www. Boston. available from Grand Circle Travel (% 800-221-2610 or 617-350-7500. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus offers member discounts on car rentals and hotels. % 866-687-2277. Popular Germany offerings in 2006 included “Heartland of Classical Music. Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon). And you’ll be glad to know that you won’t be graded.S. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits. www.” “Treasures of the Elbe River Valley. MA 02110-1941. not specifically seniors.” ߜ Grand Circle Travel (347 Congress ElderTreks (% 800741-7956. polar expeditions. and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill). Boston...eldertreks. offers small-group tours to off-thebeaten-path or adventure-travel locations. major tour operators offering trips to Germany. restricted to travelers 50 and older. by Joann Rattner Heilman. and insurance.intrav. ߜ Elderhostel (75 Federal is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature. www. MA 02210. These courses are offers package deals for the 50-plus market. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.elderhostel. % 877-4268056. DC 20049.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 93 The sources in the following list can provide information about discounts and other benefits for seniors: ߜ AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons. % 800221-2610 or 617-350-7500. travel50andbeyond.

ߜ The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH. afb.” containing information on trip planning. travel insurance. ߜ The American Foundation for the Blind (% 800-232-5463. In offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on provides general information on accessible travel. specialized accommodations. Locating resources The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency. 12 City Forum. fax: 020/7250-0212. and transportation abroad. and a newsletter. ߜ AirAmbulanceCard. Survival Strategies for Going Abroad. and companion services. because more options and resources are available than ever before. www.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. www. with its section on travel for the disabled. fax: 212-725-8253. .radar. which publishes vacation “fact packs..cometogermany. travel agents. London EC1V provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. Germany is one of the more advanced countries in Europe when it comes to accessibility for disabled and Open World Magazine. % 020/7250-3222.mossresourcenet. 250 City Rd.emerginghorizons.sath.94 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities The German word for disabled is behindert (bee-hin-dert). is a good place to begin researching your trip. % 212447-7284. de or British travelers with disabilities may want to contact RADAR (Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation. www. For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons ( publishes A World of Options. access guides.miusa. Here are some other helpful resources in the United States: ߜ The Moss Rehab Hospital (www. vehicle rentals. Over the Rainbow. the community Web site iCan ( tour operators. org. A disability needn’t stop anybody from traveling. published by SATH. ߜ Mobility International USA (% 541-343-1284. a 658-page book of resources that covers everything from biking trips to scuba travel/index.

or they may not be wide . or (click on “Mobilität&Service” and “Handicap”). Tour operators with trips to Germany include ߜ Accessible Journeys (% 800-846-4537 or is the central organization in the country for all inquiries concerning barrier-free travel. and Canada. Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) offers transportation service for the disabled. and accessible activities. pronounced roll-shtool) presents unique disabilitytravel. bahn. You can also find information (in English) for disabled travelers on its Web site. www. public buses are generally wheelchair accessible. in larger cities. including free seating reservations for travelers in wheelchairs. Some 385 train stations throughout the country have lifting aids or mobile ramps. you may want to use one of these resources: ߜ Nationale Koordinationsstelle Tourismus für Alle (NatKo. national Tourism Coordination Agency for All People. under “Reiseinfos” (Travel Information). more modern hotels). Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair) Traveling in a wheelchair (called a has information on the accessibility of public buildings throughout Germany. Several organizations offer tours designed to meet the needs of travelers with disabilities. Thanks to its comprehensive accessibility. Most of the older and less expensive pensions and guesthouses don’t have elevators. 40215 Düsseldorf. ߜ The Web site You-Too (www. natko. For many wheelchair-bound travelers. You can reserve your seat in advance and get information about traveling with a disability by calling the special Deutsche Bahn number for disabled travelers at % 01805/512-512. www. fax: 0211/33-68-760. On the Web ߜ S E Unlimited Travel (% 800-552-9798 in the U. The international airports in Munich and Frankfurt are wheelchair accessible. an escorted tour is a necessity. you can find special offers and a list of German tour operators offering special tours and travel opportunities. Germany offers both options. Kirchfeldstrasse 149. Many hotels in Berlin. accessible accommodations. www. % 0211/33-68-001. fax: 605-334-0000. and the rest of Germany (more in the western part than the east) have rooms for the disabled (these tend to be in larger. www.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 95 If you can read German.S. However. Not all U-Bahn (subway) stations have wheelchair access. But others want the adventures of being on their own.

A network of gay or gay-friendly restaurants. With most family. in small towns and large. or Gruppen (group) tickets. you have to deal with cobblestones. cafes. Although not all restaurants provide wheelchair ramps. . too (again. stores. too. or use one of the travel agencies that specializes in travel for people with disabilities (see “Locating resources. ߜ Munich celebrates Christopher Street Day in mid-July. Lesbigay travelers may want to time their visits to coincide with these big festivals: ߜ Berlin holds its annual Gay & Lesbian Street Festival in mid-June. celebrates its Christopher Street Day and Parade around the third weekend in June. looking at vineyards and castles.” earlier in this section). If you’re interested in gliding down the Rhine and Mosel rivers. although calling ahead to make arrangements and getting directions to special entrances and/or elevators always is a good idea. historical areas. but gay life flourishes outside the big cities. the Köln-Düsseldorfer (KD) line has wheelchair-accessible boats (see Chapter 19 for more about KD and Rhine journeys). Gay and lesbian couples (or friends) qualify for family tickets on public transportation in many Germany cities. Berlin. Larger theaters and performing-arts venues are often wheelchair accessible. bars. lesbian). Ask about this issue before you reserve. gay) or lesbisch (lez-bish. dance clubs. call first). Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians Germany is one of the most “developed” countries in the world when it comes to gay pride. you’ll find plenty to do in Deutschland. Celebrating gay pride in Germany Every summer. and community centers exists throughout the and gay tourism. If you are schwul (shwool. Also keep in mind that in older. Hamburg. gay culture. Find information on the Web at www. parades and special events celebrate gay pride. and stages its famous Loveparade in mid-July. most restaurants are happy to accommodate people with disabilities.96 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany enough for a wheelchair. Munich. all that matters is that two (or more) individuals travel together. Most of the top sights in the country are wheelchair accessible. and Cologne all have large gay communities.

”) . ߜ www. with its section on gay and lesbian travel. For information on the nearest IGLTA travel agent and gay-friendly resources in Germany.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 97 Pride and politics Perhaps some of the openness of gay life in Germany today has to do with the murderous antihomosexual policies of the Nazis. The following are just a few of the other Web sites you may want to check out as you begin to plan your trip to Germany: ߜ PinkPassport ( Between 1933 and 1945.germany-tourism. untold thousands of homosexuals were arrested and sent to their deaths in labor One of the best all-purpose gay sites — albeit the Web site is in German — for lesbigay travelers planning a trip to this site enables you to access a lesbigay guide for each city you want to visit. Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators If you want to keep your hard-earned travel money This site is a destination service provider for international gay travelers. That may explain why German gays and lesbians today are so politically active and determined not to tolerate discrimination. ߜ Cologne’s Christopher Street Weekend usually is the first weekend in June. ߜ Hamburg celebrates with a Gay Pride Parade and Festival around June 8 to 10. Stadt means “city. contact IGLTA (% 800-448-8550.stadt. you can use a gay travel service.iglta. de or www. You can select a city in Germany and find out pertinent travel-related Researching German lesbigay life on the Web The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. is a good place to begin researching your trip. www. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) maintains a worldwide network of gay and lesbian travelagent professionals who can help you plan your trip. (By the way. leading up to and during World War II. Unfortunately. ߜ Frankfurt’s Christopher Street Weekend takes place around the third weekend in July. because Berlin is such a great destination for gay tours). Germany seems to fall below the radar screen of most gay tour operators (too bad.

munich. and Buchenwald (Chapter 14). Another is the Holocaust memorial. numbering around 70. when systematic near the largest in Europe. This free booklet presents an overview of Jewish history and lists recommended places to visit and what to see. Throughout the country. near Weimar.gayweb. The Germany you visit today is a democratic federal republic sensitive to the past. Special and very emotional issues confront Jewish visitors to Germany. and memorials in large part because many Jewish people from the former Soviet Union are choosing to live in Germany. synagogues have been restored. One of the most remarkable is the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) in Berlin (Chapter 12). and www. Jews from all levels of society contributed to German culture. Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany In this guidebook. For assistance in planning your or Several places are dedicated to remembering the Jewish experience in this country. .com) and request a copy of Germany for the Jewish Traveler. Germany’s Jewish population is the third-largest in Western Europe. completed in Berlin in 2005 between the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Throughout the centuries. The most moving memorials are at Dachau (Chapter 15). and one of the few that’s actually growing. www. banishment. and extermination policies created horrors that are almost beyond comprehension.germany-tourism. seizure of property and assets. Try the following Web sites for information on specific cities: www.gaykoeln. Jewish life in Germany dates back hundreds of years. Large Jewish communities flourished in cities throughout Germany until the Nazi era. contact the German National Tourist Office ( or www.98 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ Specific city Web sites. Today. I can’t even begin to scratch the surface of this huge and sensitive

gov/foreignentryreqs.S. State Department at http://travel. passport office.state.html. You can’t cross an international border without one.S. or Canada.S. To find your regional passport passport. go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U. http://travel. either check the U. but the process takes some time.state. Applying for a U.Chapter 10 Taking Care of the Remaining Details In This Chapter ᮣ Obtaining a passport ᮣ Taking care of your health: Travel and medical insurance ᮣ Communicating via cellphone and e-mail ᮣ Dealing with airline security measures o you have an up-to-date passport? Have you taken steps to meet your health needs while on your trip? Are you wondering how to use a cellphone or access e-mail while in Germany? This chapter gives you the information you need. or a major post office. . or call the National Passport Information Center (% 877-487-2778) for automated information. State Department passport Web site. If you’re a citizen of the United States. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world. a federal. state. Getting a passport is easy. Australia. or probate court. you must have a valid passport to enter Germany. follow these steps: 1.S. Complete a passport application in person at a U. passport If you’re applying for a first-time passport. D Getting a Passport A valid passport is the only legal form of identification accepted around the world.

ppt.gc. New Zealand.americanpassport. Whether you’re applying in person or by mail. you can receive your passport in as little as 24 hours. at post offices. and from the central Passport Office. state or military ID. For those 15 and for details on how and where to apply. Applying for other passports The following list offers more information for citizens of Australia. Submit two identical passport-size photos. Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport. 4. Note: You can’t use a strip from a photo-vending machine because the pictures aren’t identical. measuring 2 inches by 2 inches in Ontario K1A 0G3 (% 800-567-6868. Ottawa. the digital photographs must have a continuous-tone image that looks very For people 16 and com) is a service that can expedite the processing of your first-time passport application. In addition.100 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany 2. a passport is valid for ten years and costs $97. ߜ Canadians can pick up applications at passport offices throughout Canada. You can also . call the National Passport Agency (% 202-647-0518). If you have a passport in your current name that was issued within the past 15 years and you were older than 16 when it was issued. you can download passport applications from the U. State Department passport Web site (http://travel. For general information. but they must meet the same requirements for all passport photographs. Present a certified birth certificate as proof of citizenship. Bringing along your driver’s license. www. but it can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). and paying the appropriate fees. Forms can be completed and printed online at the Web site. you can renew the passport by mail for $67. but applications must be submitted in person. Pay the fee. Using this service. or Social Security card also is a good idea. call the Australia State Passport Office (% 131-232 toll-free from Australia). 3. www. Canada. a passport is valid for five years and costs $82. grainy-looking photos composed of visible dots are not acceptable. and the United Kingdom: ߜ Australians can visit a local post office or passport office. or log on to www. American Passport Express (% 800-455-5166.S. You often find businesses that take these photos near a passport office.state. You may submit digital photos that have been printed on your printer at home.passports. processing normally takes three weeks.

medical insurance. your age and health. Some experts suggest you avoid buying insurance from . or about three weeks by or log on to www.) A good resource is “Travel Guard but expect to pay between 5 percent and 8 percent of the vacation itself. Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance Three kinds of travel insurance are available: trip-cancellation insurance. however. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears. and the type of trip you’re taking.” a list of companies considered high-risk by Travel Guard International (www. For more as a member of the European Union. as many travelers discovered who tried to cancel their trips in October 2001 because they were wary of flying. Protect yourself further by paying for the insurance with a credit card — by law. contact the Passports Office at % 0800225-050 in New Zealand or 04-474-8100.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 101 download an application form from the Passport Office Web site. However. Note: Many tour operators include insurance in the cost of the trip or can arrange insurance policies through a partnering provider. The cost of travel insurance varies widely. that the tour company is a reputable one. Applications must be accompanied by two identical passport-size photographs and proof of Canadian citizenship. govt. For information. need only an identity card. Processing takes five to ten days if you apply in person. carrying the document with you is a good idea. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. Make sure. ߜ New Zealanders can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the Passports Office Web site. ߜ United Kingdom residents. Here is my advice on all three: ߜ Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip. consumers can get their money back on goods and services not received if they report the loss within 60 days after the charge is listed on their credit-card statement. depending on the cost and length of your insured. www. contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (% 0870-521-0410. not a passport. to travel to other EU countries.passports. a convenient and often cost-effective way for the traveler to obtain insurance. such as Germany. and lost-luggage insurance. or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. if you have to go home early. if you already have a passport.

medexassist. www. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability. The airlines are required to deliver luggage. www. find out whether your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy. because it’s usually overpriced. immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport. get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travelinsurance package. once For most airlines. contact TAI’s service or buy the BagTrak product from Travel Guard (% 800-826-4919. try MEDEX Assistance (% 410-4536300. Travel Guard International (% 800-826-4919.07 per pound. baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9. you must report For more information. money. Even if your plan covers overseas Don’t buy insurance at the airport. www. com).travelguard. and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. damaged. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage. or lost baggage within four hours of arrival. If your luggage is lost. saying it’s better to buy from a third-party insurer than to put all your money in one place. detailing the luggage contents. travelinsured. . If you require additional medical insurance. checked baggage is covered for up to $ or Travel Assistance International (TAI) (% 800-821-2828. or Travelex Insurance Services (% 888457-4602.102 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the tour or cruise company you’re traveling guard.S. www. most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront and send you a refund only after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance company. www. www. For travel overseas. Travel Insured International (% 800-243-3174.500 per ticketed passenger. directly to your house or destination free of charge.accessamerica. www. and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront before reimbursing you only after you return home. www. On international flights (including most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage. portions of international trips). As a safety net. ߜ Lost-luggage insurance is not necessary for most travelers. up to approximately $635 per checked bag. On domestic flights. because many valuables (including books. contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (% 866-807-3982. you may want to buy travel medical insurance.travelassistance. for general information on TAI’s services. Worldwide Assistance Services (% assistance.

which immediately alerts doctors to your condition and gives them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. For conditions such as epilepsy. (Arzt. go to any pharmacy. cdc. www. For domestic trips.) At night and on weekends. Bring all your medications with you. you can call the Ärtzlicher Notdienst (Medical Emergency Service) listed in the telephone directory. The U. dial % 112 (a free call anywhere in Germany). www. . If you have a serious and/or chronic illness. wear a MedicAlert identification tag (% 888-633-4298. most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (% 716-754-4883 or. so I strongly advise against it (of and they take turns staying open all night and on weekends. If you have an emergency and need a prescription filled after-hours or on weekends.tripprep. if you need to carry medications with you onboard. form) if you worry that you’ll run out. www. For information on purchasing additional medical insurance for your trip. pronounced artst. and prescriptions for more (in generic. medicalert. the bugs weren’t listening to me any more than they probably listen to you). see the previous section. For travel abroad. the number for general emergencies. you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.) A pharmacy in Germany is called an Apotheke (pronounced ah-po-tay-kuh). is the German word for a medical doctor. or heart problems. sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners. com. A notice will be posted in the window providing the address and telephone number of the closest on-duty pharmacy. may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. Pharmacies are open regular shopping hours. The word for hospital is Krankenhaus (pronounced kronk-in-house). Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (% 800-311-3435. (Remember: Current airline security regulations do not allow you to carry on liquids in containers larger than 3 ounces. In a life-threatening situation. ask the concierge or hotelkeeper to recommend a local diabetes.istm.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 103 Staying Healthy When You Travel Getting sick will ruin your vacation. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www. last time I provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. in for tips about travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and lists of local English-speaking doctors. talk to your doctor before leaving on a trip. iamat.S. make sure the box or container has the pharmacy’s label with your name on it. The Web site www. If you fall ill while traveling. not brand-name. 416-652-0137.

you can purchase a prepaid German SIM card with call credit already incorporated and easily add more talk time to the SIM card if needed. If you have an unlocked phone. not all phones work on all networks. costs a lot. In the U. from Andorra to Uganda. For many. Having an unlocked phone enables you to install a cheap. although possible.50 in western Europe. For that reason.S. That’s why it’s important to buy an “unlocked” world phone from the get-go. prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in Germany. Using a cellphone outside the U. just call your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to use the phone with a local provider. but it can be done. Getting an already-locked phone unlocked can be a complicated process. I provide general information on using cellphones and sending or receiving e-mail in Germany. and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles). If you’re accustomed to using a cellphone. Unfortunately. you either need to have a friend or relative in Germany purchase the card for you or buy one in North America before your departure. if you want to purchase a German SIM card in Germany. per-minute charges can be high — usually $1 to $1. If your cellphone is on a GSM system. much lower calling rates. renting a phone is a good idea. (Show your phone to the salesperson. Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. I’ve found. so you need to check with your carrier. a big. Motorola. including kiosks at airports . Collecting e-mail is fairly easy in Germany: If you can’t do it at your hotel. is to use a prepaid phone card and the hotel phone.104 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail The cheapest and easiest way to call home from Germany.S. and renting a phone in Germany.) You’ll get a local phone number — and much. the staff will be able to direct you to the nearest cybercafe. seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. Many cellphone operators sell “locked” phones that restrict you from using any removable computer memory phone chip (called a SIM card) other than the ones they supply. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. In this section. or Samsung models are so equipped — you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe. only a limited number of carriers use GSM. phone won’t work in Germany without a special chip. However. keep in mind that your U. in Canada. you’ll be asked for proof of residency. and you have a world-capable multiband phone — many Sony Ericsson. Although you can rent a phone from any number of German sites.S.

you still can access your e-mail and even your office computer from cybercafes. Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. plus airtime fees of at least a dollar a minute. EST. but others charge high rates to go online.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 105 and at car-rental and RoadPost (% 888-290-1606 or 905-2725665. Aside from formal cybercafes. But even if you don’t have a computer. . Some business centers in large luxury hotels are free for guests. a mobile phone is called a Handy (pronounced as it’s spelled). independent businesses — two places to start looking are at www. and 4 and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need. most youth hostels nowadays have at least one computer with Internet where local phone-rental agencies often bill in local currency and may not let you take the phone to another country. Although no definitive directory exists for cybercafes — they are. Phone rental isn’t cheap. Give them your itinerary. The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price mean they need to be avoided whenever possible. simply call % 703222-7161 between 9 a. www. and take the phone wherever you go — especially helpful for overseas trips through several countries. I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. local rental companies often offer free incoming calls within their home countries. That way you can give loved ones and business associates your new number. hotel lobbies. Finding a city in Germany that doesn’t have a few cybercafes is hard to do. after all. Of course. Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (% make sure the phone works. You’ll usually pay $40 to $50 per week. In Germany.cybercaptive. though. www. And most public libraries around the world offer Internet access free or for a small charge. or go to http://intouch global. using your own laptop — or even a personal digital assistant (PDA) or electronic organizer with a modem — gives you the most flexibility. give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe and www. The bottom line: Shop around. If you’re traveling to Europe. Accessing the Internet away from home You have any number of ways to check your e-mail and access the Internet on the road. InTouch also will advise you for free on whether your existing phone will work overseas. which can save you big bucks. which you’ll also see in shopping malls. These kiosks. and tourist information offices around the world.cybercafe.

and per-minute plans.cgi/WirelessCommunities. have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere — even a cybercafe — provided your target PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). and coffee shops. the current buzzword in computer access is WiFi (wireless fidelity). through a plan offered by one of several commercial companies that have made wireless service available in index. you can use the free mail2web service (www. but in general you pay around $30 a month for limited access — and as more and more companies jump on the wireless bandwagon. If you have an older computer.11b/WiFi card (around $50) into your laptop. just set yourself up on a nice couch in the lobby. Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail. hotel lobbies. Mac owners have their own networking technology called Apple AirPort. but Hotmail has severe spam problems. The service offers top-quality serves up wireless connections at more than 1. (followed by the U.boingo.11b wireless Ethernet connection).106 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany To retrieve your e-mail. and more and more hotels. Going Wireless If you’re bringing your own computer. and Japan). (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option. look into a service called GoToMyPC (www. For more flexibility.gotomypc.wayport. ask your Internet service provider (ISP) whether it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account. iPass (www.t-mobile. If you need to access files on your office computer. T-Mobile Hotspot (http://hotspot. If your ISP doesn’t have such an com) providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. Some places also provide free wireless networks in cities around the and Wayport (www.K.ipass. primarily in the U.personaltelco. networking hardware. use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe computer to access the GoToMyPC system. you may want to open a free. or a phone line. Many laptops sold during the last year have built-in WiFi capability (an to view and reply to your home e-mail.mail2web. and retailers are signing on as wireless hotspots where you can get highspeed connection without cable wires. with a variety of monthly. You sign up for wireless access service much as you do cellphone service.000 Starbucks coffee shops nationwide.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account automatically. Best of you don’t need to be staying at the Four Seasons to use the hotel’s network. Boingo (www. but if you’re worried about per-connection. . go to www. To locate these free hotspots. you can plug an 802. prices are likely to get even more competitive. The companies’ pricing policies can be byzantine.

the iPass network has dial-up numbers in most of the world’s countries. airports. you’ll be fine as long as you arrive at the airport one hour before a domestic flight and two hours before an international flight.S. For a list of iPass providers.) If you’re using a kiosk at the airport. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. In addition. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row www. Wherever you go. Call your hotel in advance to see what your options are.i2roam. Keeping Up with Airline Security With the federalization of airport security. you can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from your home computer. a spare phone cord. and you’ll be required to show your passport at that time. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. Bring a current. you’ll be . accessing your reservation.ipass. bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card.) The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U. bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters. If you have an E-ticket. (Children younger than 18 do not need government-issued photo IDs for domestic flights. major ISPs have local access numbers around the world. enabling you to go online by simply placing a local call. government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport (for international flights. If you’re traveling outside the reach of your ISP. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in. which then tells you how to set up your computer for your destination.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 107 If WiFi isn’t available. the security checkpoint.S. if you show up late. Check your ISP’s Web site or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home. most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems. and many hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable. and sometimes even the and click on “Individual Purchase. go to www. security procedures at U. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline’s Web site. and printing out your boarding pass — and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so.” One solid provider is i2roam (% 866-811-6209 or 920-235-0475. tell an airline employee and she’ll probably whisk you to the front of the line. you will need to show your passport at check-in). and how much it will cost. (At present. and a spare Ethernet network cable — or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. Generally. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider. online check-in is available for domestic flights only. And E-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. but they do for international flights to most countries. if you’re flying on to Germany you’ll have to use the “oldfashioned” airport check-in at the airline’s ticket counter.

gov/ public/index.jsp) for details. tell an airline employee. For more information on the locks. except for folks escorting disabled passengers or children. it’s still considered a personal item. These locks are approved by the TSA and can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. or laptop bag. Security-checkpoint lines are getting shorter. You can now purchase luggage locks that enable screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary. nail clippers are okay. plus a personal item. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security. because explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. If you’ve got metallic body parts. The general rule is that sharp things are out. but some doozies remain.108 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany able to do so using most airline kiosks. Bring food in your carryon instead of checking it. Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. call before you go. visit www. and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine — but security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee cup. briefcase. Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system.tsa. a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Curbside check-in also is a good way to avoid lines. for some reason) for bombs. .brookstone. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items.S. check its Web site (www. but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available. the airline will provide a wheelchair. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag. as long as it has a laptop in it. Travelers in the your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage. Look for Travel Sentry–certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www. such as a purse. a few airlines still ban curbside check-in. Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. however.travelsentry. com). are allowed one carry-on bag.

Part III Northern and Eastern Germany .

is the focus of Chapter 13. I tell you all about Hamburg. In Chapter 14. In Chapter 14. Chapter 11 fills you in on all the Berlin basics: getting there. and finding the best hotels and restaurants. getting around. and nowhere more so than in Berlin. city of Goethe and one of Germany’s cultural jewels. istory has left its mark throughout northern and eastern Germany. From Hamburg you can make an easy side trip to beautiful Lübeck. I devote two chapters to Berlin. and Weimar. . a busy business city where the “peaceful revolution” began. and location on the Elbe River. with so many historic buildings that UNESCO recognizes the city as a World Heritage Site. All three of these cities were members of the powerful Hanseatic League that ruled the seas and dominated trade in northern Europe for hundreds of years. historic panache. bordering the Baltic and the North Sea. Leipzig.H In this part . . I devote Chapter 12 to exploring the largest and most exciting city in Germany. full of proud reminders of its seafaring past. with its superb museums. . the country’s “new” capital. I also tell you about visiting the Thuringian Forest and taking a boat trip into the scenic region known as Saxon Switzerland. Northern Germany. I introduce you to the best places to visit in this newly opened region: Dresden. eastern Germany has been in the midst of a major building and rebuilding boom. or Bremen. Since reunification in 1990. the region’s largest city and greatest port.

Their cosmopolitan live-and-let-live attitude. the most exciting city in Europe. with the wall down and Deutschland reunited. even as the city reinvents itself yet again. Berliners. perhaps because they’ve been through so much. and Nazi terror — and survived to tell the tale. and Russian sectors. endless political upheaval.Chapter 11 Settling Into Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Berlin ᮣ Traveling from the airport into the city ᮣ Orienting yourself to the neighborhoods ᮣ Getting around by subway. Now. You can dive into Berlin on many levels. much of Berlin was reduced to smoldering rubble. you see a city in transition. for my money. Berlin once again is the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany. and I would urge anyone visiting Germany to spend at least a couple of days here. When you’re in Berlin. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. part of the reason why a visit here is so intriguing. have always been a breed apart.. present. But. both triumph and tragedy. cultured. Berlin was split in two.” B . and bus ᮣ Choosing your hotel ᮣ Picking a good restaurant ᮣ Finding a cafe or brewpub erlin is.S. In many ways it’s a new city — and yet. food and supplies had to be flown in because the Soviets blockaded the city. The wall went up in 1961. gives the city an added bite. laced with sharp-edged humor and sarcastic irreverence. Berlin has a kind of inexhaustible energy. or raunchy as you want them to be. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. artistic brilliance. By the end of World War II (WWII). Your experiences can be as sophisticated. and for almost 30 years. The city then was divided into U.” That old song lyric meaning “Berlin always remains Berlin” still holds true. during the Berlin Airlift of 1948. physically and politically. a fizz and a flair and a drive that you find nowhere else in Germany. and future meet and meld all over the place. This city has seen it all — Prussian power. British. even if you don’t speak German. Later. train. You feel a sense of immediacy in Berlin because everything is happening at once — past.

S. airlines to offer direct flights to Berlin from within the United States (Continental flies from Newark to Berlin Tegel. and Unter den Linden in Mitte. connects to the Jakob-Kaiser-Platz U-Bahn (underground train) station. ߜ A taxi ride to central Berlin (east or west) costs 16€ to 20€ ($20– $25) and takes about 20 minutes. Friedrichstrasse. the regular two-zone A/B fare. the central train station in the western part of the city near Kurfürstendamm.50). By plane Continental and Delta are the only U.m. . Delta flies from New York JFK to Berlin Tegel). The facility recently was revamped to make it more passenger-friendly. you can connect to the U-Bahn or the S-Bahn (elevated train). the “new” center of Berlin. both with easy public-transportation connections to the city at standard public€ ($2. Berlin’s main tourist information center is at the nearby Europa Center (see “Finding Information After You Arrive” later in this chapter).) where you can pick up free city-transit maps and general-interest brochures and buy a bus ticket into town. use euro coins (no bills) to buy your ticket from the driver. The X9 takes about 20 minutes to reach Zoo Station.m. Four buses run from the airport into central Berlin. depending on what airline you use. On the bus. Berlin’s main and most convenient airport. which travels down Kurfürstendamm and takes about 30 minutes. Arriving at Berlin International Airport in Tegel Tegel (TXL) airport (% 0180/5000-186. is on the outskirts of central Berlin in Reinickedorf. The X9 also goes to the Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station).” later in this chapter. you have to change planes in Frankfurt or another European city. www. At the train station. you can take a bus or taxi. To get into central Berlin from Tegel. where you also find the taxi stand. Another bus that goes to Zoo Station is Bus 109. open daily 7:30 a.) ߜ TXL Express Bus runs about every ten minutes between the airport and Potsdamer Platz. (For information on public transportation. Inside the terminal. Berlin has two–7 p.112 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Getting There You can arrive in Germany’s capital and largest city by plane. you find currency-exchange windows and a small branch of the tourist information center (no phone. ߜ Bus X9. another express bus. see “Getting Around Berlin. or car. From there you can change to the subway and reach any destination. On all other flights from the United States. train. Buses arrive outside the airport terminal. tickets for each of them cost 2.

or S-Bahn fare is 2. or you can take Bus 171. when U. Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof All long-distance high-speed trains now arrive at and depart from the Hauptbahnhof. Bus. a shuttle service that runs from the airport to the S-Bahn station and the Rudow U-Bahn station. The easiest way to get into town from this airport is by Airport Express. For 24-hour train The S-Bahn station is a ten-minute walk from the airport terminal. The airport also was the base for the Berlin Airlift in 1948. and other Allied forces brought food and supplies to the city during the Soviet blockade. Arriving at Berlin-Schönefeld Schönefeld (SXF) (% 01805/000-186. Tempelhof was closed in October 2004 and a massive $4-billion expansion of Schönefeld airport now is underway. www. located about 24km (15 miles) southeast of the city.S. stopping at Alexanderplatz and Fredrichstrasse in Berlin Mitte (eastern Berlin). in 2011.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 113 A tale of three airports Tempelhof. As part of a new plan for Berlin airports. www. When the project is completed. By train You can reach Berlin by train from everywhere in Europe. served travelers to the city’s Communist. Taxis wait outside the terminal. All longdistance trains now arrive and depart from the spectacular new Hauptbahnhof (main train station). built in the 1920s.10€ ($2. Europa Platz 1 (% 0800-1507090 for train schedules. From the U-Bahn station. the you can take the U7 subway to Bahnhof Zoo in about 50 minutes. A taxi ride to the Alexanderplatz area in Mitte takes about 45 to 60 minutes and costs about 50€ ($62).hbf-berlin. was Berlin’s main airport during the Third Reich.-built Tegel airport served West and elevated trains (S-Bahn). is the old East Berlin airport. call the Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). and Bahnhof Zoo (about a 30minute journey) in the western center of Berlin. Schönefeld. reunified Berlin was . when this spectacular new travel hub opened. The Hauptbahnhof and all of Berlin’s smaller railway stations (for regional service) are connected to public buses.50). Tegel also will close. eastern sector. During the Cold War. U-Bahn. All air traffic will then be consolidated into a single hub called Berlin Brandenburg International Airport. subways (U-Bahn). an S-Bahn that leaves the Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld station about every 20 minutes for central Berlin. now mostly used for low-cost airlines and European charter flights. Until 2006. Europe’s newest and largest train station. while another airport.

it’s now used only for regional trains but remains a busy hub for local U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains. where you can purchase train tickets and make seat reservations (both centers open daily 6 a. % 01805/996-633).–10 p. Berlin has one central station.” later in this chapter.–10 p. the pavilion is open daily from 6 a. the train travel office Reisezentrum Bahnhof Zoo (% 030/19419) is open daily from 7 a. this was the main western train station until the Hauptbahnhof opened in 2006. elevators (the entire station is barrier-free) or escalators carry you up to the first and second floors. By car Four Autobahn (freeway) routes enter Berlin from western Germany. Trains arrive and depart on the lowest level (track numbers easily identified). underground trains (U-Bahn). Now. to 10 p. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). where you find dozens of shops and food options.m.000 travelers every day with a minimum of confusion. the SchauLUST Museum Pass (see Chapter 12). the main artery in western Berlin. to handle train tickets and information. The entrance to the S-Bahn (marked by a green S) is on the second floor of the station.114 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany served by several smaller stations. you can pick up a free public-transportation map and buy tickets and special passes for buses. Unless you arrive by a local. for general driving tips in the city. and theaters (half-price tickets are sold for performances that day). three enter from the east. Unless you know this huge city well.m.75).). . a car is a nuisance. buy the Berlin Welcome Card (described under “Getting Around Berlin. The drive from Frankfurt or Munich takes about eight hours. At the BVG-Pavilion outside the station.m. however. the entrance to the U-Bahn (marked by a U) is on the first floor. The fate of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Usually called Bahnhof Zoo (Zoo Station.m. maps and Berlin-related books. Whether you’re staying in western or eastern Berlin. getting to your hotel from the Hauptbahnhof couldn’t be easier. On the main floor at the north end of the station there’s a BERLIN infostore (open daily 8 a. The station has two travel centers. regional train.). See “Driving a car. user-friendly terminal.m. Here you can use the hotel booking service (3€/$3. the name given to Berlin’s tourist information centers. concert venues. you’ll be pulling into this remarkable.m. In fact. Hardenbergplatz 11. to 9 p. After you’re in Berlin.” later in this chapter). for the first time in its history. depending on traffic. and tickets to all of Berlin’s opera houses. Located close to Kurfürstendamm. It’s an enormous place but it’s been designed to facilitate up to 300.m. you’ll want to keep the car parked at your hotel or in a garage.m. Inside the station. getting around by public transportation is far easier than by car.

and half-price music and theater tickets. it costs a minimum of 0. The train station Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten. ߜ Another infostore is located under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at Alexanderplatz. Berlin is one of the world’s largest cities. Scheidermannstrasse. the SchauLUST museum pass (Chapter 12).40€ (50¢) per minute. to 6 p. West Berlin was an island of capitalism inside Communist East Germany. to 7 p. Even though the wall has been down since 1989.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 115 Finding Information After You Arrive At a BERLIN infostore. It’s open daily from 10 a. to 6 p.m. (See the “Berlin Neighborhoods” map in this chapter. You can also buy the Berlin Welcome Card (see “Transportation basics” later in this chapter). The office is open Monday to Saturday 10 a. Berlin has five walk-in infostores: ߜ The main office in western Berlin is in the newly revamped shopping “passage” called Neues Kranzler Eck. or the Ku-Damm for short. ߜ In eastern Berlin.m.m. complex metropolis can be difficult. is the major transportation hub on the western side of the city and a good landmark for orienting yourself.m. The infostores operate one information line (% 030/25-00-25). or Bahnhof Zoo for short. to 8 p.m.). and Sunday from 10 a.. you can find information or book a hotel room (for a fee of 3€/$3.75).m. (Nov–Mar daily 10 a.). bus and subway tickets. weekends 9 a. to 6 p. The zoo . and wilder than its drab eastern counterpart. (Nov–Mar 10 a. The city’s main attractions now are spread almost evenly across the whole city. to 8 p.m.m.m.” earlier in this chapter). near the Ku-Damm.–6 p. West Berlin was richer.m. you find infostore branches in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). to 6 p. showier.m. open daily 8:30 a. in the Hauptbahnhof (see “Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof. getting a handle on this sprawling..m.m.) Introducing western Berlin From 1961 to 1989.m. Kurfürstendamm 21 (at Joachimstaler Strasse). open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m.m.m.. open daily from 10 a. the first and simplest way to understand Berlin is still to think in terms of the old political boundaries of West and East.–6 p. West Berlin’s glitziest artery was — and remains — the 4km-long (21⁄2mile) boulevard known as Kurfürstendamm.m. For first-time visitors. Orienting Yourself in Berlin Covering some 60 square miles. close to Bahnhof Zoo (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). and in the Berlin Pavilion at the Reichstag.

orfe Wilm e rsd Friedrich- TIERGARTEN S .116 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Berlin Neighborhoods Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Kur t-Sc h um ach er D am m SIEMENSSTADT SIEMENSSTADT To Berlin-Tegel Airport sse se tra s es stra e S e Se See “Charlottenburg Attractions” map Putlitzstrasse Lessin gstrasse Stromstr. gens Sickin S i e m e ns s tra sse MOABIT Turmstra sse e wstrass Quitzo r e rg be e rle ass Pe Str Beusselstrasse Tegeler ier str end as or se ff- Schlossgarten Kaiserin. Strasse des Juni Kaiser r Str. Damm eler kanal Goerd thafen Munich Wes trasse ohrn-S Max-D . Bismarckstr Ha Str. ms t isha Lew Europa Center urger Lietzenb i s ts tr. S WESTKREUZ S SAVIGNYPLATZ m dam rsten Kurfü Tau en tz Str ass e er pest Budarasse St ien str .Augusta. Ott oSuh rAlle e nkl inst r Schloss Charlottenburg M . Neue Kantstrasse CHARLOTTENBURG S Kantstrasse Leibniz- Savignyplatz S en rd be rg s tr ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN . Wittenbergplatz Kle Kons tan Stras zer se Uhlandstr.Allee F ra mm Spandauer Da Spree Ca ue rst r. Olbe ssstr Gau strassrse tr. ch g is b ur Brande n a sse Str m am nd ler l o z en oh er dt tä lfs do Ru r he ru hs e ric ass ied tr Fr S e See “Western Berlin Accomodations and Dining” map e ss ra St WILMERSDORF . See “Tiergarten-area Attractions” map Hohenst aufenstr. m dam rsten Kurfü HALENSEE S H Fehrbelliner Platz Bundesallee Grunewald S HOHENZOLLERNDAMM H m am nd r lle zo en oh SCHÖNEBERG rg bu se len tras k ec S M he isc S Hundekehlestrasse Breit e St rass e SCHÖNEBERG Dahlem FRIEDENAU Ha up tst ras se r. CHARLOTTENBURG Spandau Kaiserdamm Ma stra rchsse B str achass e strasse Weg TIERGARTEN Le ve tzo ws tra sse BELLEVUE S HANSAVIERTEL 17.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 117 WEDDING Schönhauser Allee nn Fe se as str s au Ch e ss tra es se NORDBAHNHOF S 0 0 0.platz FRIEDRICHht c e STRASSE kn b S Lie rl Ka Mo lls t r.5 km PRENZLAUER BERG Prin zen stra sse Str as se t Rosen en alid Inv S sse stra ck.Pie elm h il W O ra n ien S Strass e HAUPTBAHNHOF– LEHRTER BAHNHOF Sp ree Pariser Platz S bur HACKESCHER ger Str MARKT Alexander.5 mi N 0. S . Str as se M da üh m len m - den Unter den Lin Friedrich- Museumsinsel NIKOLAIVIERTEL Ge rt str raud as en se - Kar l-M arx -Al lee JANNOWITZBRÜCKE TIERGARTEN UNTER DEN LINDEN BERLINMITTE S n d w ehrkanal Schöneb Potsda mer S tra sse e ANHALTER BAHNHOF Lin den stra s La S fe r em p e l hofe r Ufe Gitschiner Strasse r La n d sse stra rck o Y S Gne is YORCKSTRASSE KREUZBERG enau stras se Kolonnenstrasse Katzbackstrasse Dudenstrasse Columbiadamm asse nstr hafe Flug To BerlinSchönefeld Airport B o elck es trasse Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Hei nric Strah-Hein sse e- POTSDAMER S Leipziger Platz PLATZ e Leipziger Strass se Or an ien str ass e wehrka nal Urb a nst ras se Hase nheid e Brü stra cken sse - Gr eif sw al d er e ass str ide He rg U er h al e r St rasse Invalidenst e rass See Berlin-Mitte maps d e rs xan Ale tr. Spre e strasse nan m se re St se as str T wBülo sse stra S-Bahn stop S .

the district became home to the city’s artistic countercultural scene. but you may want to come here to visit the Brücke Museum.118 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany itself is part of the Tiergarten. The area is more residential than hotel-oriented. Although gentrification is taking place. which has plenty of hotels and pensions (B&Bs). a beautiful park stretching east and ending at the cultural center known as the Kulturforum. Upscale shops. you find the best concentration of hotels. the former Yugoslavia. rises just across the plaza from the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis Kirche (Memorial Church) near the Ku-Damm and Zoo Station. with lots of bars and clubs. After WWII. Along the famous Ku-Damm. restaurants. The 22-story Europa Center. close to . The borough is centrally located. dedicated to the history of divided Berlin. with its lovely gardens and nearby museums: the Ägyptisches (Egyptian) Museum. Charlottenburg. Kreuzberg Filled with 19th-century tenement buildings (called Hinterhof. and department stores. a tree-lined square a short walk north of Kurfürstendamm. one of Berlin’s three opera houses. makes a convenient base for visitors. Schöneberg developed in the 19th century as an independent suburb for workers. about 35 percent of its population is composed of Gastarbeiter (guest workers) from Turkey. which runs through it. because they have an interior courtyard) constructed for the workers of a rapidly industrializing Prussia. Charlottenburg also is the home of the Deutsche Oper Berlin (German Opera House). the Bröham Museum. the area was rebuilt as a middle-class neighborhood. Kreuzberg is where you find the new Jüdisches (Jewish) Museum and the small museum called Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. Charlottenburg’s regal centerpiece is Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace). Up until reunification. and the Berggruen Sammlung (Collection). nightclubs. Today. and cafes fill the neighborhood around Savignyplatz. Kreuzberg traditionally has been the poorest and most crowded of western Berlin’s districts. and Greece. Charlottenburg The district known as Charlottenburg is the wealthiest and most commercialized in western Berlin. This neighborhood no longer is a convenient place to stay. Dahlem was the site of western Berlin’s major museums. however. cafes. near Potsdamer Platz. restaurants. Schöneberg Like Kreuzberg. shops. theaters. Starting in the 1960s and 1970s. the neighborhood remains funky around the edges. many of whom have now lived here for 30 years or more. Dahlem originally was established as an independent village to the southwest of Berlin’s center. a shopping center and entertainment complex. Dahlem Now the university district. most of them have now moved farther into the city.

” and it refers both to western Berlin’s massive urban park and a business-residential district of the same name. This 38-sq.) The beautiful neoclassical square called Gendarmenmarkt.-mile) lake-filled forest begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm and is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. The Hansaviertel (Hans Quarter). toward the Ku-Damm. the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). Both areas formerly stood behind the Berlin Wall and now are full of new buildings and ongoing construction. Walter Gropius. Wilmersdorf is a very pleasant borough in which to stay. is lined with 18th. is the new name of the central section of former East Berlin. and Alvar Aalto. Before the war and the division of the city. on the east side of Tiergarten park. with good U-Bahn connections and many hotels and pensions. Wilmersdorf is a quiet residential neighborhood filled with an excellent assortment of hotels and pensions and plenty of low-key restaurants and cafes. home of the Philharmonic (Philharmonic Hall). and other museums. Tiergarten is one of the best areas in Berlin for hotels and restaurants. also called Stadtmitte (City Center) or just plain Mitte (Center). Closer in. which starts at the Brandenburg Gate and extends east.-km (15-sq.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 119 the Ku-Damm. Wilmersdorf The huge park called the Grünewald (groo-nuh-vald) takes up the western portion of this borough. in fact. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is the main opera house in eastern Berlin. The grand boulevard called Unter den Linden. Wannsee is the most popular lake for swimming and boating. contains the Berlin Zoo in its southwest corner. Berlin’s third opera house. Berlin-Mitte has numerous attractions.and 19th-century palaces and monuments. occupying the northwest section of Tiergarten. Berlin’s densest concentration of gay bars and clubs is in Schöneberg between Nollendorfplatz and Victoria-Luise-Platz. Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) Berlin-Mitte. The oldest and most historic part of Berlin. The Tiergarten park. Berlin-Mitte symbolically begins at Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. including Le Corbusier. also is in Berlin-Mitte. the famed Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). just off Unter den Linden. is where you find the magnificently restored early-19th-century Schauspielhaus (theater). (The Komische Oper. the center of Berlin. originally intended as a backdrop to the grand avenues laid out by the German kaisers. The Tiergarten neighborhood also contains the Kulturforum. Tiergarten The name Tiergarten means “Animal Garden. now called Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt and used for . this area was. Tiergarten also is where you find the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag (Parliament) building. All in all. I recommend giving this fascinating area at least a full day of your time. contains a series of residential buildings designed in the late 1950s by different architects.

This well-integrated public-transport system is run by BVG. Alexanderplatz. ferries on the lakes. Period taverns and riverside restaurants make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque stroll. Prenzlauer Berg. and a few Strassenbahnen (streetcars) that still operate in eastern Berlin only. Transportation basics You can buy your ticket at any U-Bahn station (at windows or machines that have English translations) or from a bus driver.bvg. is a charming area restored to look as it did (with some contemporary touches) in Berlin’s medieval and baroque eras. you find the marvelous Museumsinsel (Museum Island). Friedrichstrasse. The following sections describe the various options you have for getting from place to bus. Gay and lesbian visitors may want to explore Prenzlauer Berg’s burgeoning gay cafe and club scene. just south of Alexanderplatz along the Spree River. was the center of activity in the Soviet era. northeast of Mitte. and Strassenbahn Berlin’s excellent public-transportation system makes getting around fast. Luckily. see the inside back cover of this book. The system consists of the U-Bahn (underground train). You can also buy . It’s now being completely redone. one of the highest structures in Europe. Berlin has a comprehensive public transportation system. Except to check out the ongoing gentrification. safe. a square named for Russian Czar Alexander I. is now the hippest neighborhood in eastern Berlin and a favored spot for young Berliners to live. site of four major museums. and even dedicated walkers won’t be able to cover it entirely on foot.). At the eastern end of Unter den Linden. the S-Bahn (surface or elevated train). Getting Around Berlin Berlin is a huge city. www. (1.207 ft. Luxury boutiques and department stores crowd the street. Berlin’s Transport Authority (% 030/19449 24hour information line. Going public: U-Bahn. The Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). the transportation hub of Berlin-Mitte. For a map of Berlin’s U-Bahn and S-Bahn. at 368 m. buses. is regaining its prewar reputation as Berlin’s preeminent shopping street. U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines converge at Friedrichstrasse train station. and not to everyone’s liking: Eight skyscrapers will eventually surround Alexanderplatz and reduce the prominence of the Soviet-era Fernsehturm (TV tower). which intersects Unter den Linden. and relatively inexpensive.120 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany concerts. S-Bahn. short-term travelers will find little of interest. convenient.

A regular Normaltarif or Einzelfahrscheine (one-way fare). Thirteen lines cover most of central Berlin. All your sightseeing within the Berlin city limits will be in zones A and B.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 121 tickets and passes (and receive a free transportation map) at the BVGPavillion on Hardenbergplatz. but after midnight only two lines — U9 and U2 — run on a limited schedule. all the way to Potsdam. including the following: ߜ A Tageskarte (day ticket) is good on all forms of transportation from validation until 3 a. The card is good for all public transportation in central Berlin (zones A. A large U in a blue box identifies each station.m. which costs 16€ ($18) for 48 hours or 22€ ($24) for 72 hours. One ticket enables you to change from U-Bahn to S-Bahn and to the bus during a two-hour period. directly outside Zoo Station. Ticket inspectors may suddenly appear to check everyone’s ticket. to 10 p.50). good for two hours in zones A and B is 2. they intersect at Bahnhof Zoo. If yours hasn’t been validated.25) for zones A and B. each car contains a map of . you can get a Kurzstrecke (short-stretch) ticket for 1. When purchasing tickets for public transportation.10€ ($2. and the routes are clearly marked in all stations and in the trains. S-Bahn (elevated train) The venerable elevated train system in Berlin is called the S-Bahn.m. you also have several money-saving options.20€ ($1. U-Bahn (underground train) The subway in Berlin is called the U-Bahn. the following day and costs 5. Long-term tickets are validated only once. B. the office is open daily from 6 a. you’re guilty of Schwarzfahren (black travel) and fined 75€ ($94) on the spot.50).80€ ($7.m. For short hops (3 consecutive U. You must validate your ticket by sticking it into one of the validation boxes on all U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms or inside buses and streetcars. In each car. The entire transportation system runs on an honor system — you won’t find turnstiles or ticket collectors. B. which are announced. Nine lines crisscross the city in all directions and extend to the far reaches of Brandenburg. and C) and provides price reductions of up to 50 percent at many tourist attractions in Berlin. and C). Service is fast and efficient. ߜ The 7-Tage-Karte (7-day ticket) costs 25€ ($32) for zones A and B. before your first trip. consider the Berlin Welcome Card. ߜ If you’re in Berlin for two days.or S-Bahn stops or 6 stops on a bus or streetcar). you find a map of the stops. Zone C extends far beyond the city’s borders. The fare is based on three zones (A.

122 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
the stops, which are announced. A large S in a green circle identifies each station. S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations sometimes overlap, so you can change from one to the other. Service is basically nonexistent after midnight. The S-Bahn is particularly handy if you’re going from Bahnhof Zoo east to the Friedrichstrasse/Unter den Linden area or southwest to Grünewald and the lakes.

Riding atop one of Berlin’s double-decker buses (single-deckers also operate) is a fun way to see the city. A green H (for Haltstelle, or stop) in a yellow circle identifies each stop. Regular service begins about 5 a.m. and ends about midnight. Night buses (designated with an N) leave every half-hour, going west and east, from Bahnhof Zoo and Bahnhof Hackescher Markt (near Alexanderplatz in eastern Berlin). One of the best and cheapest sightseeing routes is on Bus 100, which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and travels through the Tiergarten, passing Bellevue Palace (the Berlin residence of the German president), the Reichstag, and the Victory Column all the way to the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Museum Island, and Alexanderplatz.

Strassenbahn (streetcar)
Streetcars, called Strassenbahnen, run in eastern Berlin only. Because you can get practically everywhere on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you probably won’t be using the streetcar. Ticket prices are the same as for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and buses.

Taking a taxi
Thousands of ivory-colored taxis cruise Berlin’s main streets. Hailing one during the day is easier than at night. The fare starts at 2.50€ ($3.10) and costs 1.55€ ($1.90) per kilometer (1⁄2 mile). For short distances, flag down a taxi and ask for the Winktarif: a special rate (3€/ $3.75) for a short lift. To order a taxi, call % 210-101. Tip taxi drivers by rounding up to the nearest euro.

Driving a car
I don’t recommend renting ein Auto in Berlin. Local drivers tend to be aggressive, and the street system itself can be fiendishly difficult to navigate. The public-transport system gets you everywhere you want at a fraction of the cost. If you’re out very late, you can grab a cab to get back to your hotel. The only time a car may come in useful is when you want to explore the surrounding countryside. The offices for Hertz (Budapester Strasse 37; % 030/262-1053) and Avis (Budapester Strasse 43; % 030/230-9370) are close to Bahnhof Zoo.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


If you drive in town, be aware that the right lanes in inner-city areas are often reserved for buses, taxis, and bicycles only. When turning right, you must give way to any vehicle (including bikes) in that lane. Some right-hand lanes are reserved for buses at stated times and otherwise can be used by cars. Also remember that in Germany, using a mobile phone while driving is against the law. In Berlin and throughout Germany, cars can park only on the right side of the road. In most inner-city areas, you must obtain a parking ticket at one of the street-side ticket machines to display on your dashboard. The police quickly tow cars that violate these laws. If that happens, you can go to any police station to find out where your car is. The whole process costs more than 150€ ($187) — and a great deal of time. Parking garages are more expensive than street parking, but they save you the potential hassle of getting towed.

Staying in Style
Finding a hotel room in Berlin is easy, unless a big trade fair or soccer match is happening in town. Prices generally are lower than in other major European cities. (You can find a good hotel in Berlin for less than 150€/$187 a night.) I do, however, strongly recommend that you reserve your room before you arrive. If you arrive in Berlin without a hotel room, you can go to one of the BERLIN infostores (for locations and opening hours see “Finding Information After You Arrive,” earlier in this chapter). For 3€ ($3.75), the infostore staff will find you a room. You can also book hotels by calling % 030/25-00-25. For locations of the hotels in this chapter, see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining.”

The top hotels
For details on two of the city’s best hotels, Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) and Kempinski Hotel Bristol ($$$$), see Chapter 22.

Arco Hotel
$ Schöneberg
This small, gay-friendly hotel is housed in a four-story turn-of-the-century building on a quiet street near the Ku-Damm. Most of the 21 fairly large rooms have high windows and modern furniture. Private bathrooms, all with showers, are on the small side. One of the nicest features is the airy breakfast room, which looks out on a courtyard garden (you can eat outside in warm weather). The English-speaking staff is friendly and helpful. One potential drawback: no elevator.

124 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining
MIERENDORFFMierendorff- U PLATZ Kaiserinplatz Nordhauser Str.




en str do . rf








uer str.







1 LuisenSpandauer platz O Damm tto

Do str ve.



nkl ins t





All ee













S ua rez str.






be rg Stein- str. platz


endo Holtz str rff.







vinu Ger




s t r.


Joachim- Fried rich- Str.



ember gische Str.



r Str.







Dü s s e l -

er Wes rn tfäli sch bo eS t r. uls Pa To Dahlem






Wü r t t



er St

ich Sp











m dam ern




ACCOMMODATIONS Ambassador Berlin 26 Arco Hotel 22 Artemisia 4 Art-Hotel Charlottenburger Hof 2 Bleibtreu Hotel 8 Grand Hotel Esplanade 27

Grand Hyatt Berlin 28 Hecker's Hotel 11 Hotel Alsterhof Berlin 23 Hotel Art Nouveau 7 Hotel Brandenburger Hof 18 Hotel Domus 9 Hotel Wilmersdorf 19

Kempinski Hotel Bristol 16 Ku'Damm 101 3 Pension München 21 Pension Niebuhr 6 Pension Nürnberger Eck 24 Ritz-Carlton 29 Savoy Hotel 14






m ndam ürste


Parise r





Nü be rnrge r














Joachimstaler St







Niebuhr6 Mommsen-

ZOOLOGISCHER HardenGARTEN Savignybergplatz U SAVIGNYKant- str. platz PLATZ B ud a Kaiser-WilhelmKaiser-Wilhelm14 13 S GedächtnisGedächtnisGed chtnisTa Kirche Kirche 15 u KURFÜRSTEN- 16 U DAMM












DEUTSCHE OPER Bismarckstr.

Ernst- T E C H N I S C H E ReuterStrasse des Platz

17. Juni




18 18

19 Geis-

dstr .

Ba ch


e rW

A ll e






Schloss- str.

Quedlinburger Str.















Wilmersdorfer Str.


Richard- Wag

hr k we





Wilme rsdorfe r Str.

rd Ha


he i d s t

Lew ish am str.


nburg ische


Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


er ow hen . Rat Str

s tr .

t r.

Turmstr. Kleiner Tiergarten


S tro m s





en alid




Moabiter Brücke Gerickesteg

s sin




To Berlin-Mitte




r Lüneb ur g e r S t




st r .


Al to na

Englischer Str Garten .

e r e

Schloss Bellevue


Haus der Kulturen Marschallder Welt/ Kongresshalle Platz der brücke Republik Reichstag



Neuer See

os T I E R G A R T E N se rS ter na lle e

alle e

Len né


Tiergarten str.
rstr .

Pot sda m



-derVon t- Str. d Hey


Potsdamer Leipziger Platz Platz S tr. To S U


des 17. Juni

Be llev ue -


Sp Grosser Stern

ew re



-Dulles-Allee ster -Fo

Strasse des

17. Juni

Brandenburger Pariser Tor Platz des Platz 18. März M rz

Wilhe lmstr.

Hofjägera llee

öferKlingelh str.




29 MarleneDietrichPlatz

es em





Kur fürs t

h il


r d e ia Kur fürs An ran ten U 26 WITTENBERGAUGSstr. Kleis PLATZ BURGER tstr. NollendorfSTR. . r t S ger r u b n e z platz 23 Liet

Flottw ells tr.


tzi en str Wittenberg. platz







Rei ow Lütz ufer c h p ietschufer 27 berger Schöne

an ns tr.

Ufe r









er erg eb tr. n S S hö



s he es c f Hall ho pel Tem




Ansb ach e

Martin- Luther-Str.


22 Viktoria-LuisePlatz VIKTORIA- U

rfeldt Winte

s tr.
0 0

1/4 mi


0.25 km

am Main


r. Hohenstaufenst


enstr .


DINING Art 15 Bamburger Reiter 20 Café/Bistro Leysieffer 10 Café Wintergarten in Literaturhaus Berlin 17 Chez Martial 1

Die Quadriga 18 Marjellchen 5 Paris Bar 13 Toto 12 Trattoria da Muntagnola 25

Post Office

S-Bahn U-Bahn Train station


24 berg-







Bülo w




Uf er U fer




- s t r. leditsch Maassen- G Goltz- s t r. str.

126 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
See map p. 124. Geisbergstrasse 30, 10777 Berlin. % 030/218-8065. Fax: 030/21475178. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Ansbacher Strasse and west on Geisbergstrasse). Rates: 65€–97€ ($81–$121) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

$ Charlottenburg
Located on the top floors of a large apartment building, Artemisia is an excellent hotel for women only. The rooms are large, light, and free of froufrou but still have a warm ambience heightened by splashes of color. Ten of the 12 rooms have toilets and small showers. You can save money by renting one of the two rooms that share a toilet and shower. A private roof terrace with wonderful views over Berlin becomes a gathering spot on warm afternoons and evenings. See map p. 124. Brandenburgischestrasse 18, 10707 Berlin. % 030/873-8905. Fax: 030/861-8653. U-Bahn: Blissestrasse (then a 3minute walk northwest on Brandenburgischestrasse). Rates: 89€–115€ ($111–$144) double with bathroom; 79€–89€ ($99–$111) double without bathroom. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Art-Hotel Charlottenburger Hof
$ –$$ Charlottenburg
Located across from the Charlottenburg S-Bahn station, this budget hotel is one of the best and brightest in Berlin. This inexpensive property is unusually well decorated for its price range and offers several amenities, such as in-room safes, hair dryers, and laundry facilities. Primary colors of blue, yellow, and red (plus white) brighten some of the 45 contemporary-style rooms, a few of which have balconies. Rooms and bathrooms, which have showers, are fairly small. All guest rooms are equipped with computers that provide free Internet access. The breakfast buffet costs an additional 8€ ($ 10). See map p. 124. Stuttgarter Platz 14, 10627 Berlin. % 030/329-070. Fax: 030/332-3723. S-Bahn: Charlottenburg (the hotel is north of the station). Rates: 65€–125€ ($81–$156) double. AE, MC, V.

Baxpax Downtown Hostel Hotel
$ –$$ Mitte
If you’re looking for a really inexpensive place to stay in Berlin, check out this clean, friendly hostel/hotel in Mitte. You can stay in an eight-bed dorm room, a more private double room with a shower and toilet, or a small studio with a bathroom. Nothing fancy or frilly here: The rooms have been simply but nicely designed and there’s a cafe and a roof terrace for relaxing and meeting fellow backpackers and explorers. Baxpax has two other hostels in eastern Berlin in addition to this one: Baxpax Kreuzberg Hostel Berlin, Skalitzer Strasse 104 (% 030/6951-8322; S-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor),



1 2

3 5


Mü nzs tr .
Dirck s en str .

Post Office

Ora nie nb
u r g e r S tr .


t chts lbre

Baxpax Kreuzberg platz ab it




Hostel 1





Hostel Berlin 3 MoltkeBerlin Hilton 14 brücke Hotel Adlon Kempinski 12

KronprinzenU brücke

Pergamon Museum



b Ale xa Lie n K. Alexander- derp l. platz


Mitte's Backpacker

Hostel Berlin 4


mm rda S aue e e FRIEDRICH- U b f f i h Sc r STRASSE
de str .

Westin Grand Hotel 10

S p
r ue

St r.

r. ALEXANDERSt S PLATZ t h Fernsehturm U c ne bk tr. ss Lie u a th Ra . str



Café Silberstein 2



Vau 13


(under construction)


ns tr .



r tr au de

e-Zur Nolle 11 alle e





t r.




s t r.

-KolmarGertrud Str.

st L e n né




Jägerstr. Gendarmen- HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ markt U N K ied erw urstr . str. all str . n e s n t r. Kro
Leipziger Str.







N e u e str. Jak o b HEINRICH-



Schützenstr .

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin




Friedrichstr. r. rst ue Ma

ts d Po
elms tr.


tr. er S



Al te





Potsdamer Platz



an da nte n-



st r ob ak


1/4 mi

st r



Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining



tr. ederkirchners



0.25 km

t r.

Zur Letzten Instanz 7

Holocaust Memorial



M üh

Restaurant Borchardt 9


er r s ch W erd e arkt M

l en


Noodle 6

Brandenburger Tor Pariser des e ss Stra Platz des Platz 17. Juni 18. März

r. Rathaus sst au h t KLOSTERSTR. Ra 7 U NIKOLAIVIERTEL St r a la 8 u er S tr.

La Riva 8




b en

Bebelplatz Schlossplatz


Café Aedes 5


S p r e e

Gr un er


Haus der Kulturen der Welt

Platz der Platz der Republik Reichstag Republik






k n ec ht -St r.

Baxpax Downtown Hostel


Sp an


Br e eit







a em




128 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
and Mitte’s Backpacker Hostel Berlin, Chauseestrasse 102 (% 030/28390935; U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). See map p. 127. Ziegelstrasse 28, 10117 Berlin. % 030/2787-4880. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse (then a 5-minute walk south on Tucholsky Strasse and west on Ziegelstrasse). Rates: 15€–18€ ($19–$22) dorm bed without bathroom; 59€ ($74) double room with shower and toilet; 75–119€ ($94–$149) studio/apartment with bathroom. MC, V.

Bleibtreu Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
If you’re looking for chic, central, contemporary digs near the Ku-Damm, this 60-room boutique hotel is the place for you. The rooms aren’t particularly large but are artfully designed and furnished. The furniture coverings are hypoallergenic, and no chemicals of any kind are used for cleaning. The small, stylish bathrooms have sinks of carved stone. Other features include remote-control-operated lights, wireless phones, fax machines in every suite, and electric awnings over street-facing windows. The hotel has a Wellness Center where you can take a pore-cleansing sauna. Restaurant 31, near the small lobby, lays out a healthy breakfast buffet (an extra 15€/$ 19); the bar is lively at night. See map p. 124. Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Berlin. % 030/884-740. Fax: 030/8847-4444. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). Rates: 132€–232€ ($165–$240) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Grand Hyatt Berlin
$$$$ Tiergarten
The Grand Hyatt Berlin, right smack-dab in the center of all the action in the new Potsdamer Platz area, is one of the coolest places to stay, and one of the more expensive. This big hotel, built in 1998 with 342 rooms, is sleek and glamorous throughout. Rooms are large and have beautiful wood finishes and wonderful bathrooms set up with Japanese-style soaking tubs. Restaurants include Vox, for Eurasian cuisine and sushi; Tizian, for international classics; and Bistro Dietrich, for casual cafe-style food. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. 124. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, 10785 Berlin. % 030/2553-1234. Fax: 030/2553-1235. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west to Marlene-Dietrich-Platz). Rates: 240€–430€ ($300–$537) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Alsterhof Berlin
$ –$$$$ Wilmersdorf
Location — just a few minutes walk from Bahnhof Zoo and the Ku-Damm — is this hotel’s greatest asset. If you’re in Berlin on business and need a reasonably priced full-service hotel in a central location, this place fills the bill. The 195 rooms are comfortable and quiet, and have plenty of extra

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


amenities (trouser press, safe, minibar, hair dryer), although they aren’t particularly stylish. You find a pool and sauna on the sixth floor. The breakfast buffet costs 16€ ($20). See map p. 124. Augsburger Strasse 5, 10789 Berlin. % 030/212-420. Fax: 030/2183949. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east across Joachimstaler Platz and east on Augsburger Strasse). Rates: 85€–200 ($108–$250) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Brandenburger Hof
$$$$ Charlottenburg
The beautifully appointed, 86-room Hotel Brandenburger Hof offers superior service, an on-site spa, and one of the top restaurants in Berlin. Centrally located in western Berlin, this Relais & Châteaux hotel is close to the Ku-Damm and the Tiergarten. The guest rooms are unusually large for Berlin and furnished in an elegant Bauhaus style that is rarely encountered in other hotels. Bathrooms have wood and granite finishes. You can enjoy the sumptuous breakfast buffet, included in the price of the room, in a glass-walled conservatory built around a Japanese garden. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Die Quadriga (named for the four-horse chariot atop the Brandenburg Gate), earned a Michelin star (see “Dining Out,” later in this chapter). See map p. 124. Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Berlin. % 030/214-050. Fax: 030/21405100. U-Bahn: Kurfurstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east on Augsburger Strasse and south on Rankestrasse to Eislebener Strasse). Rates: 245€–295€ ($306–$369) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Domus
$$ –$$$ Wilmersdorf
Set in an unusually pretty section of Wilmersdorf, down the street from St. Ludwig’s Church and within walking distance of the Ku-Damm, this modern 73-room hotel has a calm, appealing simplicity. The spacious rooms are quiet (thanks to soundproof windows) and tastefully decorated with highquality contemporary furniture (lots of light-colored wood). Rooms face the inner courtyard or the street. The bathrooms are unusually large and have either a shower or a tub. Breakfast is served in a lovely dining room. Free high-speed Internet service is a nice bonus. See map on p. 124. Uhlandstrasse 49, 10719 Berlin. % 030/880-3440. Fax: 030/88034444. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west on Hohenzollerndamm and north on Uhlandstrasse). Rates: 115€–150€ ($144–$187) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Pension Niebuhr
$ Charlottenburg
This pleasant, gay-friendly pension in Charlottenburg is one of the best deals in Berlin. The 12 rooms, all on the second floor of a turn-of-the-century apartment building (no elevator), have a fresh, modest flair. The furnishings and

130 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
color schemes are bright and cheerful. Three street-facing rooms have balconies; the rooms facing the courtyard (Hinterhof) can be a bit dark, but they’re very quiet. One bonus: Breakfast (5€/$ 6.25) is brought up to your room. See map p. 124. Niebuhrstrasse 74, 10629 Berlin. % 030/324-9595. Fax: 030/881-4707. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Niebuhrstrasse). Rates: 53€ ($66) double without bathroom; 72€ ($90) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

Pension Nürnberger Eck
$ Charlottenburg
If you’re seeking an atmospheric old-fashioned pension, try this one on the second floor of a building near the Europa Center, a shopping and entertainment complex. High-ceilinged rooms with heavy doors open off a long, dark hallway. Although the eight rooms are stylistically something of a mishmash, with patterned wallpaper, Oriental rugs, and big pieces of furniture, the pension does convey an Old Berlin charm. The bathrooms are a decent size, and the breakfast room is pleasant. See map p. 124. Nürnberger Strasse 24a, 10789 Berlin. % 030/235-1780. Fax: 030/2351-7899. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Tauentzienstrasse and south on Nürnberger Strasse). Rates: 70€–92€ ($87–$115) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Savoy Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
The quietly charming Savoy, which opened in 1930, has played host to more than a few celebrities through the years. You can’t beat the location, just a skip from the Ku-Damm, or the unobtrusively efficient service. The 125 rooms provide spacious and comfortable accommodations, with large bathrooms, but don’t look for any modern design touches here; the hotel is completely up-to-date with wireless and cable networks, but the décor remains resolutely old-fashioned. There’s a good restaurant, Weinrot, serving international and regional dishes, and if your room rate includes the breakfast buffet, you’re in for a treat. Nonsmokers may find the lingering cigar fumes from the Times Bar, just off the lobby, bothersome. See map p. 124. Fasanenstrasse 9–10, 10623 Berlin. % 800-223-5652 in the U.S. or 030/311-030. Fax: 030/3110-3666. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse and north on Fasanenstrasse). Rates: 152€–295€ ($190–$369) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Runner-up hotels
Ambassador Berlin
$$ Schöneberg A comfortable, old-fashioned “retro” look characterizes this hotel located near the huge Kaufhaus des Westens department store. See map p. 124.

127. % 030/520-0550. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. % 030/254-780. or 030/33-77-77. 124. www. 10787 Berlin.esplanade. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. some vivid colors. % 030/327-7440. 124. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz.S. See map p. Grolmanstrasse 35. trendy hotel may look a bit sterile to some. U-Bahn: www. 10785 Berlin. Fax: 030/2027-3362. and Canada. % 800-937-8461 in the U. www. Ku’Damm 101 $$ Wilmersdorf A minimalist aesthetic. 124. Fax: 030/ ߜ Grand Hotel Esplanade. 10711 Berlin. www. Hotel Art Nouveau $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg This small.westin-grand.kudamm101. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. www. Fax: 030/2190-2380. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. See map p. 10117 Berlin. % 030/2177-07476. sorat-hotels.ritz-carlton. See map p. here are a few more $$$$ suggestions: ߜ Berlin 10785 Fax: 030/217-7077. 10629 Berlin.heckershotel. Schaperstrasse 36. 127. Fax: 030/ clean and comfortable. Fax: 030/ Hotel Wilmersdorf $ Wilmersdorf This no-fuss pension is large. Fax: 030/2005-5555. 124. and a bit of “I’m so cool” attitude characterize this interesting new hotel. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz. Friedrichstrasse 158–164. Hecker’s Hotel $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg The streamlined rooms in this small. Kurfürstendamm 101. and offers a buffet breakfast overlooking the rooftops of Berlin. % 800-241-3333 in the U.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 131 Bayreutherstrasse 42–43. . Fax: 030/ 265-1171. Fax: 030/2023-4269. 10623 Berlin. or 030/20230. 124. atmospheric hotel is on the fourth floor of an Art Nouveau apartment house. ߜ Westin Grand Hotel. www. 10719 Berlin. www. or 030/20270. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. See map Lützowufer 15. but the place is conveniently located and impeccably maintained. See map p. See map p. Potsdamer Platz 3. 124.. % 800-445-8667 in the U.S. Mohrenstrasse 30. 10117 Berlin. See map p. ߜ Ritz-Carlton.S. See map p. % 030/219-020. The big splurge If you’re looking for top-of-the-line luxury. and Canada. Leibnizstrasse 59. % 030/88900.

For a few recommended brewpubs. modern décor. .de. but rounding out the total bill with an extra amount as a gratuity is standard practice. A plate with various cold meats is called a Schlachteplatte (schlock-tuh-plaht-tuh). www. U-Bahn: Günzelstrasse. For locations of the restaurants in this chapter. fried potatoes. Güntzelstrasse 62. meatballs (Buletten) with boiled potatoes. Typical Berlin dishes include grilled or pickled herring with onions. and bacon. and lighter dishes) at one of Berlin’s plentiful cafes. and plenty of other nice touches in this third-floor pension. Restaurant and cafe bills include the service charge and value-added tax (MWST).hotel-pension-muenchenin-berlin. 10717 Berlin.132 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Pension München $ Wilmersdorf You find simple. afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is a time-honored tradition. see Chapter 12. I list some good cafe choices at the end of this chapter. and wild boar appears seasonally. duck. 124. see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining” earlier in this chapter. See map p. pickled or roast pork (Schweinefleisch) or pork knuckles (Eisbein) with red cabbage and dumplings. but the local culinary tradition is fairly basic and very filling. places to enjoy a casual meal with a freshly drawn beer. Dining Out Berlin offers every kind of international cuisine. carp and trout often are available. Fancier restaurants often serve what’s called neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). Scattered all around town are vendors selling Berlin’s classic fast-food snacks: Currywurst (sausage with a glob of “curry” sauce) or fried bratwurst. Grabbing a wurst or eating at the stand-up counters of the fast-food snack shops (look for signs that read IMBISS or SCHNELL-IMBISS) is a good way to save time and money. You can always get an inexpensive meal (soup. Fax: 030/8579-1222. for example. original artwork. If the bill is 6. % 030/857-9120. which uses the old standbys as a starting point but dolls them up with unusual ingredients and international touches.30€. sandwiches. Game like venison. And speaking of cafes: Don’t forget that in Germany. round the total up to 7€ and add another euro or two if the service was good. and pea soup (Erbsensuppe).

Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets). or smoked-fish pie. Bamburger Reiter is small and rustic. 124.m. and couscous.m.m. DC. with parquet floors. so be ready to wait (while savoring a bottle of good French wine). The restaurant has a outdoor arbor for summertime dining. Main courses: 9€–19€ ($11–$23). See map p. this was a temple of neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Hardenberg Strasse and south on Fasanenstrasse). The menu changes daily according to what’s freshest in the market. flowers. Every dish is freshly prepared. duck with cassis sauce.m. marinated boiled beef with chive cream. and outdoor seating is available in good weather.m. V. % 030/218-4282. Regensburgerstrasse 7. bar. The fish soup. Reservations recommended for dinner. poultry. Main courses: 22€–39€ ($27–$49). and plenty of antiques. For dessert. See map p.and French-inspired dishes. Fasanenstrasse 81A. Reservations required. and cafe rolled into one. Dinner choices include homemade pasta. cooked in a broth of fish and shellfish that’s whipped into a foam. Art is tucked beneath the S-Bahn track at Fasanenstrasse.) Bamberger Reiter $$$$ Schöneberg AUSTRIAN Housed in a century-old wine tavern at the corner of Regensburger Strasse and Bamburger Strasse. For many years. The staff is friendly. . Reservations recommended. 124.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 133 The top restaurants Art $ –$$ Charlottenburg GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A restaurant. and may include cream of mushroom soup. The menu changes daily and offers several main courses. and beans). MC.m. and a vegetarian Maultaschen (stuffed pasta). % 030/313-2625. including fresh fish. try the pumpernickel mousse. Chez Martial $$ Charlottenburg FRENCH Top-quality products and good cooking have helped establish Chez Martial as one of Berlin’s most popular French restaurants. Come to this gay-friendly place for an English breakfast (bacon.m.. is wonderful. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Regensburgerstrasse). 124. chicken. Open: Tues–Sat 5:30–11:30 p.–2 a. fish. but the place now serves more Austrian.m. % 030/341-1033. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25).–2 a. For lunch. See map p.–2 a. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Richard-Wagner-Strasse and west on Otto-SuhrAllee). MC. try a bowl of potato soup with sausage or one of the many salads. Sat–Sun 10 a. V. Otto-Suhr-Allee 144. AE. eggs. No credit cards. lamb. roast quail. Open: Tues–Sun 6–11:30 p. beef. (winter Sat–Sun 12:30 p. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a.

such as broccoli soufflé. AE. Main courses: 35€ ($44). swordfish with fresh tomatoes. offers a truly memorable dining experience. V. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). You’ll want a table outside if the weather is fine. the one-star Michelin restaurant (in Michelin’s guides. AE. 127. Main courses: 13€–19€ ($16–$23). and the good pizzas are kid-pleasing. Choices include salmon with white-wine sauce. Reservations required. to midnight. grilled trout. fixed-price menu 55€–110€ ($69–$137). Pasta is made fresh daily. because that’s what this place does best. DC. just south of Alexanderplatz. and a tasty potato soup with shrimp and bacon. % 030/214-050. Open: Mon–Fri 7–11 p. Part of the building is a museum. AE. Other starters include Beetenbartsch. or fried chicken legs. Dishes are classically French and seasonally fresh. See map p. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). while another section contains this Italian-influenced restaurant. Everything is of the finest quality.134 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Die Quadriga $$$$ Wilmersdorf FRENCH Die Quadriga. 1 star means very good) in the beautiful Brandenburger Hof Hotel. smoked Pomeranian goose. Mommsenstrasse 9. MC.50€ ($6–$12). which sits right next to the Spree River. The restaurant also has a well-stocked wine cellar. DC. or roast of elk with chanterelle mushrooms.m. Closed July 17–Aug 20. See map p. You also find vegetarian dishes. is the Ephraim-Palais. . U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 5minute walk southwest on Mühlendamm to Spreeufer. 124. % 030/883-2676. Eislebener Strasse 14. See map p. try homemade aspic. onions. the pedestrian street along the river). Open: Mon–Sat 5 p. And you’ll probably want to order fish. In Hotel Brandenburger Hof. % 030/242-5183. Reservations recommended. V. but you need to reserve well in advance because the elegant restaurant seats only 28 diners. Reservations recommended. to midnight. smoked ham in cream sauce. For an appetizer. and basil. V. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 2-minute walk south on Eislebener Strasse). and grilled or baked crayfish. The wonderful wine list includes several wines available by the half-bottle or by the carafe. La Riva $$ Mitte ITALIAN/SEAFOOD One of the prettiest buildings in the restored Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter).50€–9. pork kidneys in sweet-andsour cream sauce.m. Spreeufer 2. which celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2005. MC.m. pizzas 4. Open: Daily 11 a. a richly ornamented 1765 mansion. 124. Marjellchen $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg EAST PRUSSIAN Old East Prussian recipes prepared by the owner’s grandmother inspired the dishes that are served at this popular restaurant. a delicious red-beet soup with beef strips and sour cream. MC. Main courses are something of an adventure: stewed pickled beef with green dumplings and stewed cabbage.

and a bit of French attitude. Diners mark what they want on the menu (an English menu is available) and hand it to the server.m. gilding. Französische Strasse 47. Open: Daily noon to 11 p. with marble. saddle of veal with lemon butter. reasonably priced selection of sushi. Paris Bar $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg FRENCH/AUSTRIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Since the end of WWII. The dining room has long communal tables. V. fried noodles. % 030/23828-3464. The best bet for lunch is one of the fixed-price specials. and other specialties. 127. Main courses change often. has been a Berlin institution. sashimi. lunch specials 14€ ($17). The restaurant’s interior. is nothing fancy. Kantstrasse 152. or you can dine outside in nice weather. Wiener Schnitzel. V. the Paris Bar. and suckling pig. the restaurant has expanded its classic French bistro menu to include more upscale Austrian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. the restaurant is large. MC. spare. MC. You may find asparagus with hollandaise sauce. Reservations recommended. 124. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse). ham. this new Japanese-inspired noodle house offers a good. AE. Menu offerings typically include baked tuna fish with Asian vegetables. You can get a good plate of spaghetti or a good . See map p. Open: Daily noon to 1 a. 127. and elegant. AE. Toto $ –$$ Charlottenburg ITALIAN Toto is a good place to sit outside on a warm Berlin afternoon and have a good. inexpensive lunch. between Savignyplatz and the Memorial Church.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Noodle $ –$$ Mitte JAPANESE/ASIAN 135 Located right beside the Spree River. Reservations recommended. fresh fish. directly across from the Gendarmenmarkt. to midnight. In the past couple of years. No credit cards.m. and new potatoes. Main courses: 10€–25€ ($13–$31). and satays (skewers with meat or fish). Reservations recommended.m. Inside. See map p. Open: Daily 11:30 a. Main courses: 16€–28€ ($20–$35). U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). across from the giant Berlin cathedral and beneath the Radisson SAS Hotel (of which it’s now a part). U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 3-minute walk east on Französische Strasse). with wooden tables and benches. Restaurant Borchardt $$ –$$$ Mitte FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL You can recognize Borchardt. glazed duck breast. or grilled foie gras. Main courses: 7€–13€ ($9–$16). Spreepromenade beside Liebknecht Bridge. by its blood-colored awning and red-sandstone facade. plus noodle soups. % 030/313-8052. risotto with porcini mushrooms. See map p. % 030/2038-87110.

however.m. MC. roast duck breast with herbs and carrots. Bleibtreustrasse 55. DC. and very beautiful. See map p. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). The restaurant occupies two floors of a much-restored . The menu is huge and the cooking is reliable. See map p. V. everything is very precise. but I still recommend this place. % 030/202-9730. and various fish choices. The bean soup is filling. DC. AE. 124. particularly the Pizza della Mamma with bacon and Parma ham. which happens to be Berlin’s oldest restaurant.m. and west on Fuggerstrasse). The menu includes a nice selection of Italian wines and aperitifs. to midnight. No credit cards. Vau is a very dress-up kind of place for a superfancy lunch or dinner with impeccable service. MC.136 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany salad. Zur Letzten Instanz $ –$$ Mitte BERLINER The former East Berlin now has several trendy new restaurants. has earned a Michelin star for its refined cooking. % 030/211-6642. AE. % 030/312-5449.m. Note: The restaurant can be a bit smoky. See map p. not remarkable. Trattoria da Muntagnola $ –$$ Wilmersdorf ITALIAN This popular Italian place is casually rustic.m. Some of the pastas are made on the premises. The lasagna is worth trying. with braids of garlic hanging from the beamed ceiling. available every Tuesday and Friday (market days). and 7–11:30 p. which opened near the Gendarmenmarkt in early 1997. The menu choices are deftly prepared and can be surprisingly unfussy: venison with artichokes and mushrooms. All kinds of meat dishes and some good seafood (calamari and scampi grilled or cooked with radicchio and rosemary in white-wine sauce) round out the menu. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. Reservations required. Fresh fish. In this long. V. Reservations recommended. rather narrow room with an arched ceiling. 124. The casual atmosphere makes Toto a good place to bring kids. Main courses: 28€–38€ ($35–$47). 127. Vau $$$$ Mitte INTERNATIONAL This sleek and unabashedly upscale gastronomic showcase. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25). fixed-price dinner 80€–100€ ($100–$125). Open: Daily noon to 2 a. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). dating from 1525. too. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Motzstrasse. The pizzas are good. Jägerstrasse 54–55. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte (then a 5minute walk east across Gendarmenmarkt). Open: Daily 6 p. very modern. north on Luther Strasse. includes grilled salmon with butter and lemon and grilled crayfish cooked in olive oil. Fuggerstrasse 27. classic Wiener Schnitzel. the menu has several items that kids generally like.

Wash everything down with a cold. Kurfürstendamm 218 (see map p. . to 7 p. or the roast bratwurst. you find an old-fashioned cafe with a balcony overlooking the busy Ku-Damm. upstairs. V. Meals range from 10€ to 16€ ($13–$20). is particularly rich in cafes. onions. Beneath the arches of Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station (SBahnbogen 30).m. Sun noon to 11 p. try the chocolate-covered pancakes filled with blueberries.–6 p. or onion fillings. 124. yogurt..75–$11).Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 137 baroque building in the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse). to midnight. MC. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41 (see map p. Sun 11:30 a. % 030/242-5528. Try the jacket potatoes with herring. apple. See map p. convivial. MC. For dessert.m. and the menu is as traditional and atmospheric as can be. or mushrooms). a cup of coffee and a piece of Kuchen (cake). and whipped cream. Vegetarian offerings include vegetable lasagna and roasted broccoli with cheese served on pasta. meatballs. has a pastry and candy shop at street level. Waisenstrasse 14–16. 127. The cafes likewise are bars. % 030/ 285-8278. % 030/208-2655. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. The menu usually has dishes like tortellini with cheese sauce. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 1-minute walk east along the street below the tracks). Meals range from 7€ to 9€ ($8. For old time’s sake. as a sign of post-reunification nostalgia for a bit of Old Berlin. vanilla ice cream. or a light meal or snack. too. and additions (fried egg. with choice locations on Unter den Linden near the Brandenburg Gate and on the Ku-Damm at Wittenbergplatz. % 030/885-7480. DC. 127. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. Main courses: 7€–10€ ($8.m. The best cafes Berlin is a city filled with cafes. This place is a good one for having an elegant breakfast or light lunch. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 3-minute walk south on Waisenstrasse). Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). I recommend the homemade Bulette (meatballs). DC.m. 127. Starbucks is now a presence in Berlin. Main courses include Old Berlin staples like grilled herring.m.m. Bleibtreustrasse (U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). between Savignyplatz and the Ku-Damm. Zur Nolle was a busy working-class beer hall beneath the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station. and very hip. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). is trendy.m. Zur Nolle $ Mitte GERMAN A hundred years ago. soups.m. ߜ Café Aedes. V. AE. and braised lamb knuckles with green beans and dumplings.75–$13). Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. The menu is unpretentious and the portions hearty. bacon. and vegetarian salads. which come with a variety of sauces. The place closed in 1968 (GDR years) but reopened in 1993. spices. so you also can get a beer or a glass of wine. These are places to go for breakfast. See map p. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 1 a. ߜ Café/Bistro Leysieffer. to midnight. foamy Bier von Fass (beer from the tap). AE.

. The menu includes pastas. occupies two modern-looking rooms in a 19th-century villa 1 block south of the Ku-Damm.m. is one of the best places to see the “new” eastern Berlin in all its up-to-the-nanosecond trendiness. to 4 a. miso soup with noodles. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor).m. 127. salads.75). 124. A meal costs around 7€ ($8. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($9– $22). to 5 a. % 030/882-5414. salads.m. The cafe is open daily from 9:30 a. to 1 a. tall. Oranienburger Strasse 27 (see map p. ߜ Cafe Wintergarten in Literaturhaus Berlin.138 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ߜ Café Silberstein.m. and an all-day breakfast. soups.m. % 030/ 281-2095. and vegetarian curries. The cafe is open Monday to Friday from 10 a.m. you find sushi. Fasanenstrasse 23 (see map p. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. U-Bahn: Hohenzollernplatz). On the menu. narrow room with original 1920s wall paintings and modern furniture. . The cafe is housed in a long.

Remember: Nearly all Berlin museums are closed Mondays throughout the year.” and “Berlin-Mitte Attractions” maps in this chapter. . 25. They’re also closed January 1. and historic architecture. although you also find picturesque parks and lakes. and 31. and the Tuesday after Easter. Note: The ages for children’s tickets always are 6 to 14. The city is particularly rich in museums. this city has more new buildings than any other city in the world. see the “TiergartenArea Attractions.Chapter 12 Exploring Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Berlin’s top attractions ᮣ Choosing a tour that’s right for you ᮣ Finding the hot shopping spots ᮣ Discovering Berlin’s performing arts and nightlife ᮣ Taking a side trip to Potsdam and the palace of Sanssouci erlin overflows with sightseeing options and diversions.” “Charlottenburg Attractions. thanks to rebuilding in Potsdamer Platz and portions of eastern Berlin. The places described in this section are my roster of the most important Berlin attractions. except where otherwise indicated. For locations. and at some museums children under 16 are admitted free of charge. B Sightseeing in Berlin Where do you begin? Do you want to spend all your time in Berlin’s fabulous museums? Saunter and shop your way down famous avenues like Unter den Linden or the Ku-Damm? See historic buildings like the Reichstag? Check out the “new” Berlin at Potsdamer Platz? You have to make some decisions because the possibilities for sightseeing in Berlin are almost endless. famous avenues and riverside promenades. December 24. kids younger than 6 generally get in for free. Plus.

see Chapter 11).” You can purchase the SchauLUST museum pass at any of the BERLIN infostores (for addresses.50) seniors and children. and histosric buildings in the palace gardens. Berlin’s great city park. 7. the Alte Nationalgalerie (with 19th-century art). ߜ Museum Island (Museumsinsel): Museum Island in eastern Berlin has four of the city’s oldest museums. The pass gains you admittance into nearly all the museums described in the next section. the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (with contemporary art).50€ ($9. A day ticket to visit all the Dahlem museums costs 6€ ($7. the Brandenburg Gate. All the state museums operated by Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (www. and the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). Charlottenburg Palace also has museums. ߜ Dahlem: This leafy suburb. the newest area of Berlin. which now contains the Ägyptisches Museum (with the famous bust of Nefertiti). The Kulturforum area is within walking distance of Potsdamer Platz. and the Reichstag (House of Parliament).spk-berlin. is a group of buildings known as the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). and the Neue Nationalgalerie (with 20thcentury art). smb. which you can visit before or after a guided palace tour. a baroque square. and the Bröhan Museum (with Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture).140 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Touring by neighborhood You can save a lot of time by clustering your museum and other sightseeing visits geographically. They include the Altes A day ticket to visit all four museums on Museum Island costs 10€ ($13). In this same vicinity. a grand boulevard. Gendarmenmarkt. Saving money with a museum pass SchauLUST Museen Berlin is a money-saving three-day museum pass that gets you into 70 top Berlin museums and collections for 15€ ($19) adults. including the museums on Museum Island in . you can also visit the new DDR Museum Berlin. close to Potsdamer Platz. home to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). On the eastern edge of the Tiergarten. where you find the Filmmuseum Berlin. is home to the fascinating Ethnologisches Museum with rich collections of North American Indian art and artifacts and several other museums concerned with world cultures. the new Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). Unter den Linden. ߜ Tiergarten: In or near the Tiergarten. a restored historic neighborhood. the Pergamon Museum (with the giant Pergamon altar and Middle Eastern antiquities). “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z. you find the BauhausArchiv. just a few S-Bahn stops from central Berlin. and the newly reopened Bode Museum (German and Italian sculpture and the Museum of Byzantine Art). the adjoining Kunstgewerbe (with applied and decorative arts).50). The main museum areas in Berlin are as follows: ߜ Charlottenburg: Across from Charlottenburg Palace are two museums worth visiting: the Museum Berggruen (with Picassos).

m. Only two portions of the wall (Mauer in German. but the fragments that remain are grimly essential pieces of Berlin’s tumultuous history. Bodestrasse 1–3. and objects of gold and silver. You’ll need at least two hours to cover the basics. four hours before closing. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Altes Museum (Egyptian Museum and Collection of Classical Antiquities) Museum Island.). www. Monet. you’ll find enough here to make you linger for at least an hour. Give yourself at least an hour just for the highlights of this rich collection. are open free to the public on Thursdays. See map p. Manet. A superlative collection of Greek. 4€ ($5) children.–6 p. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). If you’re interested in Egyptian antiquities. % 030/266-3660. See map p. Children 16 and under are always admitted free of charge. including works by van Gogh. and at Charlottenburg Palace. in the Kulturforum.m.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. which looks like a Corinthian temple and contains a collection of 19th-century painting and sculpture.C.m. pottery. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. including sculpture. pronounced mao-er) are when it was moved to the second floor of the beautifully restored Altes Museum on Museum Island in eastern Berlin. free Thurs 6–10 p. By 1990. The greatest treasure of the Egyptian Museum is the famous and fabulous bust of Queen Nefertiti.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 141 Berlin Mitte. is found on the first floor. A free audio tour in English is available. 147. and Etruscan classical antiquities.m.m. .–6 p. Open: Daily 10 a.m. (Thurs until 10 p. free Thurs 2–6 p. Roman. 147. Mitte The Alte Nationalgalerie. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. % 030/2090-5801. Other collection highlights include the small. Museumsinsel. dating from around 1340 B. (Thurs until 10 p.) Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) Museum Island. expressive head of Queen Tiy and the world-famous head of a priest in green stone. the free audio tour will help you navigate. sits behind the Altes Museum on Museumsinsel. most of the concrete barrier that divided this city into two political entities had been razed. Berlin-Mitte’s famous collection of Egyptian antiquities was housed in western Berlin until 2005. One of the highlights here is the unique portraits of Caesar and Cleopatra. Berlin Wall Mitte The wall that separated Berlin and Germany from 1961 to 1989 is no more. and Cézanne. Renoir. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). Am Lustgarten. 4€ ($5) children.smb. Mitte Museum Island.

Here you’ll find a rich collection of German. give yourself at least a full hour just to graze the highlights. such as those in 1989. you saw this historic monument. built into one of the guardhouses.–6 p. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. East Side Gallery: Mühlenstrasse along the Spree River. The free audio guide will help you navigate your way through the galleries.smb. free Thurs 2–6 p. The other remaining section of the wall.m. The revolutionary events of 1848 and 1918. When the wall came down.m. French. (Thurs until 10 p. and Italian sculpture (marble. U-/S-Bahn: Warschauer Strasse. a chapel of reconciliation.m. www.m. the newly modernized BodeMuseum anchoring the north end of Museum Island reopened its doors in October 2006. See map p. 147. . The mirrorlike stainless steel surfaces of the memorial have slits through which visitors can peer. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt (then a 5-minute walk west along the S-Bahn tracks to the Monbijou bridge which leads to the museum). Monbijoubrücke. known as the Gedenkstätte und Dokumentationszentrum Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial and Documentation Center) lies between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. hundreds of thousands of East Germans walked freely through the gate into West Berlin for the first time since 1961.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.). saw the gate used as a symbolic gathering place. wood. visitors still gather to meditate and reflect on Germany’s past. one of Berlin’s most potent symbols. 4€ ($5) children. and a documentation center with photographs and a history of the wall. in every news clip. Bode-Museum (Sculpture Collection.142 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The East Side Gallery is a half-mile-long section on Mühlenstrasse on the banks of the Spree River in the former East Berlin. The museum also contains galleries with late-antique and Byzantine works and a major coin collection. Museum of Byzantine Art) Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) Mitte If you watched the televised fall of the Communist German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1989. Mitte Closed in 1999 for a complete refurbishment. A plaque reads: “In memory of the division of the city from 13 August 1961 to 9 November 1989. Dutch. An international group of artists painted murals on this section in 1990.m. The memorial consists of two walls that include fragments of the original wall (much of which was bulldozed away or carried off by souvenir hunters). See map p.). % 030/266-3666.” This place is the only one in Berlin where you still can see a complete border area. 147.–6 p. A neoclassical triumphal arch completed in 1791. bronze) from the Gothic to the neoclassical periods. In the Room of Silence (open daily 11 a. a fourhorse copper chariot drawn by the goddess Victoria. Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer: between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. the gate is crowned by the famous Quadriga.

er Pot sda m Sony PotsCenter damer Leipziger 12 14Platz Platz Ebertstr. hö S S Sc ANHALTER Kleis tstr. ENAUERADENAUERATZ PLATZ Lie Str. str llerSchi The Story of Berlin 2 PLATZ Tiergarten 8 Goethe. Schlüterstr. g Stein. Ca Str. tr.25 km brücke str. tzenburger 4 U AUGSBURGER STR. Lützowtzowplatz Lütz ows MENDELSSOHNBARTHOLDY-PARK U r ge Einemst da be 143 BAHNHOF Tiergarten-Area Attractions r be ne tr. rge a me 1 2 tens tr.Gegenwart 17 CHARDAGNERNERATZ Z Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche 5 Ot toKäthe-Kollwitz-Museum 4 Suh rKunstgewerbemuseum 9 All ee Kurfürstendamm (Ku-Damm) 3 Neue Nationalgalerie 11 DEUTSCHE str. Juni os se T I E R G A R T E N e rS ter na Neuer lle S Garten Tor 15 eg tr. be St Tiergartenstr. Marchbrücke L ch str . str. ommsen. rS Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin r m dam 5 Tau i en nt zi rste U KURFÜRSTENü f en r u DAMM str 3 K . -derVon dt -Str. 13 Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium 6.TURMSTR. Budap e ster . Do str ve.str. Po ts U UHLANDSTR. S tro m st r . Nü rn PLATZ Post office str. Kleiner Tiergarten Alt-Mo abit 0 1/4 mi N Luisenstr.str. OPER Bismarck U Potsdamer Platz 14 U ERNSTReichstag 16 REUTER. e See Len né tungsEntlas TECHNISCHE ane Fas Krumme rstr. S nst 17 lide HAUPTBAHNHOF nva I LEHRTER BAHNHOF LessingWashingtonAltTIERGARTEN brücke Moabit platz Kronprinzenbrücke Moabiter Le Moltkeve Brücke tzo brücke ws Gericketr. na l UNIVERSITÄT r. 0 Gotzkowsky0. Strasse des Ba st r. te steg s Bellevue brücke t o -F U ona Englischer n Brandenburger h o Pariser J HANSA. Garten 1 Brandenburger Tor 15 Filmmuseum Berlin 12 Siemens. a llee Hofjägera w nd öferKlingelh str. Kur r. NOLLENDORF- GLEIS- U tr. fürs lstr Niebuhr- S Kur . Kantstr S U POTSDAMER PLATZ MarleneDietrichPlatz a em nn S ZOOLOGISCHER U GARTEN 13 str . März M rz S ni Ju .GARTEN bergplatz 6 für Gestaltung 7 Botanischer linburger Str.Grünewald steg Röntgen-10 Gemäldegalerie brücke Hamburger Bahnhof DoveMuseum für brücke ARD. Joachims- ten str. PLATZ ew Platz des re Platz p 18. fürs .str. U S U Bauhaus–Archiv Museum hauser Str. n Str es i ZOOLOGISCHER Harden. steg BELLEVUE St Kongresshalle/ brücke Lüne b u r g e r S e e Haus der Kulturen Reichstag p r der Welt HANSAS Platz der 16 MarschallRepublik brücke VIERTEL Schloss WullenweberLutherD u l l e r s A l l ee Al Scheidemannstr. U U-Bahn i Information amm i Church rstend Kurfü WITTENBERGr PLATZ de i An r a n KaDeWe U U Leibniz. nst r. HansaTo Berlin-Mitte r. 11 Hey R 7 owufer eic h p ietschufer Lütz berger Ufe Schöne r taler Str. U KURFÜRSTENSTR STR.S S-Bahn str. SAVIGNY- Kantstr. platz üle Str. r 9 10 Leibnizstr. tr. Juni ue 8 Strasse de Gr alle 17. Str h il Sc Uhlandstr. Topographie des Terrors Pestal ozzistr. eh r ka e rd Ha Str. 17 s Strasse de Grosser Be llev TIERGARTEN S Stern s 17. uer Le S p r e e ss in g- Paulstr .

143. . Several Italian masterpieces are on display. when East Berlin finally began its reconstruction. Tiergarten The Gemäldegalerie houses Berlin’s greatest collection of European painting. built for the influx of French Huguenots (Protestants) who settled in Berlin after being forced to flee Catholic France in 1685. half-hour organ concerts Tues and Fri at 12:30 p. open Tues–Sun noon to 5 p.144 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. The centerpiece of the square is Friedrich Schinkel’s beautiful neoclassical Schauspielhaus.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.m. % 030/802-8146. This is a huge collection and to see it in any depth you should give yourself at least two hours. See map p. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Taubenstrasse).m. or theater (now also called the Konzerthaus. Pariser Platz.m. including Raphael’s Virgin and Child with the Infant St. which had its guardhouse and stables here from 1738 to 1782. Looking at the square today.m. the Gendarmenmarkt had been reduced to a pile of smoldering rubble and remained in ruins until 1977.). The gallery contains one of the world’s largest collections of Rembrandts. Gendarmenmarkt Mitte Twin churches inspired by Rome’s Piazza del Popolo flank this monumentally graceful baroque square — one of the most beautiful architectural ensembles in Berlin. % 030/22730431.)..–6 p. % 030/2090-5555.m. Admission: Free. with an emphasis on medieval German and Dutch art and 16th-century Italian and 17th-century Dutch painting.m. The square was named for the Gens d’Armes regiment. On the north side of the square is the Französicher Dom (French Cathedral. 143. Facing this church like a mirror image on the south side is the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral. it’s hard to imagine that by the end of World War II (WWII).).–6 p.m. open Tues–Sun 10 a. free Thurs 6–10 p. 4€ ($5) children. Matthäiskirchplatz. Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) Kulturforum. or Concert House. for concert information. 147. See map p. completed in 1821. Surrounding the square is a bevy of chic new restaurants. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse and Margaretenstrasse). see “Raising the curtain on performing arts and music. (Thurs until 10 p. John and Bronzino’s Portrait of Ugolino Martelli. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.” later in this chapter). U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you see the gate to the west).

h.B e re Sp rüc ke Olbers- . rsdorfe W i n dscheids t r. Schlossbrücke Charlottenburg M SCHLOSSGARTEN ier Caprivier U brücke f er Wintersteinstr. str. Str.Friedric en leb itz atz W pl Wilme Fritschestr. str dt LIETZENSEEPARK e n s e ze et en Sua rezs tr. str. Wulfsheinstr. Beh SchustehrusPark Haubachstr. itz Goethepark leb Pestalozzi- str. platz PLATZ U aim. F r i e dr i c h - Richard- Gierke- Danckelman n- dorfer r. Su hrStallstr. s tr Horstweg un Horstweg SophieCharlottePlatz U SOPHIECHARLOTTEPLATZ Kaiserdamm W Bismarckstr. U S-Bahn U-Bahn N CHARLOTTENBURG LiseM e itner. Mausoleum Taur ogge ner S en tr.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 145 Charlottenburg Attractions s t r. All ee me ye rNithack- str . He Knobelsdorff str. St s rp S u f ertstr. Ste san ifendst r. 100 isse ll . 0 0 0. Zille. 100 Christ- str. r Str he- Osna Mind brück er Str MIERENDORFFPLATZ U . platz Ot toBrauhofstr. Wagner.St Fritschestr . Mierendorffplatz Sop Keple rstr. o lf. W W un Li MESSE NORD/ S ICC . Str R ud str. do rff str . Post office S U Neue Kantstr.Eosanders tr. Spielhagens tr. Neue Christstr.25 km 1/4 mi Kantstr. Karpfenteich ener Str.Str. WILMERSDORFER STR. bb Thrasoltzeile Str. h i e -C harl o Kam ntte Hersc Belvedere mine . helst r. . Schustehrus- Seeling- str. BISMARCKSTRASSE dt - U str . Kaiser. Rieh l s tr .Str. Nehringstr. str.W Bra Te g e l e r Bröhan Museum 3 Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit 2 Schloss Charlottenburg 1 CHARLOTTENBURG Schinkel Pavilion 1 mm Spandauer Da 2 Klausener3 platz WESTEND Ne r. els str. RICHARDGierkeWAGNERstr.str. Wilmers- Sophie-C harlotte n-Str. e Sp re Schloss- Weg Sömmeringstr. U KAISERDAMM Schiller- str. r Str. Kaise r- str. Gardes-du-Co Luisen. Loh- tr.

You also find a major collection of works by Cy Twombly. I recommend that you give yourself at least two hours. Free organ concerts take place there every Saturday year-round at 6 p.m.m.50€ ($3. % 030/2599-3300. the church later was blasted by a bomb in WWII..25) adults.).m. The small modern church beside the Gedächtniskirche is an octagonal hall designed by Egon Eierman in 1961. Closed on Jewish holy days.m. 2. Invalidenstrasse 50–51.m. Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) Kreuzberg One of the most talked-about museums in Europe is located in Kreuzberg. Robert Rauschenberg. including the high roof designed for steam engines. works of Jewish artists. Sat 11 a. See map p. 10€ ($13) family ticket (2 adults. 4€ ($5) children. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor (then a 5-minute walk east on Gitschiner Strasse and north on Lindenstrasse). This museum has plenty to free Thurs 2–6 p. Open: Daily 10 a.m.75) students and children. % 030/397-83439. www. (Mon until 10 p. the oldest train station in Berlin. .146 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) Tiergarten This showcase of contemporary art opened in 1996 in the 19th-century Hamburger Bahnhof. portraits of prominent Jewish figures.–6 p. Open: Tues–Fri and Sun 10 a. The building still retains traces of its former use. Built to commemorate the 1871 establishment of the German Empire. Items on display include ceremonial objects. See map p. 143. 147. Admission: 5€ ($6. and Roy Lichtenstein together with changing exhibitions.–8 p. the Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church) is a ponderous neo-Romanesque structure from the late 19th century.juedisches-museumberlin. and memorabilia.–8 p. Lindenstrasse 9–14. just south of Berlin-Mitte. photos.m. the building is shaped like a stretched-out Star of David and houses Europe’s largest Jewish museum.m. historical objects. Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Emperor William Memorial Church) Charlottenburg One of Berlin’s most famous landmarks. You can see everything in about an hour. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk northeast on Invalidenstrasse). You probably won’t want to spend more than a few minutes inside. You follow a chronological pathway occasionally interrupted by deliberately disorienting memorial spaces. 2 children). and the ruined shell was preserved as a symbol of the ravages of war. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. documents.m. Designed by American architect Daniel Libeskind. The modern art on display dates from the second half of the 20th century and includes everything from Andy Warhol’s now legendary Mao to an audiovisual Joseph Beuys archive.

r tr.HAUPTBAHNHOF r. tstr rech Alb Tuch olsk yst St fer Kup Oberwall- r. UNTER DEN a 6 R INSEL Gendarmenmarkt 2 LINDEN Brandenburger U NIKOLAIden Lin Jüdisches Museum 4 SchlossS 1 n Tor de BebelVIERTEL Unter St platz Pariser Platz des platz Mauermuseum Haus am r s a de la u e Platz Strasse 18.str hard er p in K Monbijoue . n St Leipziger Post Office e Leipziger POTSDAMER Krausenstr. m se tr. all str U ren. Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Friedrichstr. it (Gedenkstätte Kronprinzenpark platz “Berliner Mauer”) 15 r. M S (Museum Island) 10 Str. Friedrichstr. MOHRENSTR. r. Platz K S S-Bahn r Str.str. 147 Berlin-Mitte Attractions er KOCHSTR. ns tr. DietrichNiederkirchne Platz Kochstr. Checkpoint Charlie 3 17. PLATZ o e m a d m s t U Po ma S . St M üh e eit Br l en Ebertstr. AlexanderR M Berlin Wall oab platz S l.U .U str. MUSEUMSAlle e th KLOSTERSTR. erstr. p r e Französische 5 e Holocaust Nikolaiviertel 6 Jägerstr. . Mau t r. brücke st n e . MarleneZimmerstr. er-S Wilh ak ob str . r. . str. Rathaus str. lev SPITTELMARKT Leipziger ues Jak o b HEINRICH. u u r ba e st FRIEDRICH. - kn e ch t-S tr. Fernsehturm am der Welt r. W Schwules Museum 12 U N alle K str. str. S p Ka Deutsches Historisches 11 str Haus der 10 8 Platz der Museum 9 Reichstag Kulturen LustRepublik garten Dorotheenstr. Str elms e str. Luisen- str. U STADTMITTE KronenMUSEUM L e n né . nd U U-Bahn J Schützenstr an Potsdamer te ten Al Platz i Information Zimmerstr. Ora Altes Museum 11 nie N n b u r g e r S tr . r b Ale t 0 0. r t s W l l a U U Bel Voss. r. m k str r da e S 13 12 ieb Byzantine Art) 14 s e 17 L . grafen- tr. Juni er i r s ch Museumsinsel W erd e arkt Behrenstr. Str. ri r ALEXANDERMa BerlinerMoltkeDom 8 St S PLATZ 14 brücke (Sculpture Bode Museum Pergamon ht U ec Fernsehturm m Collection. N e u e str. rst ue Ma xelSp ring Charlottens A LEHRTER BAHNHOF Mü Alte Nationalgalerie 12 0 1/4 mi nzs 16 15 S tr. Berlin Wall . Sp an da r ue r. TIERGARTEN U 2 Be Memorial HAUSVOGTEIllev GendarmenPergamon Museum 13 (under FRANZÖSISCHE s l PLATZ ue l a construction) markt STR. str. Mark- Str. Moh MÄRKISCHES str. tr. tr. Glinka- da mm Charlotten- Gr un er Universitätsst Friedrichstr. an st r .25 km s Dirck HACKESCHER xa Lie s en (East Side Gallery) 5 tnd MARKT Washington. 3 4 rstr. sst Mittel9 Alexanderplatz 16 au Scheidemannstr. t s HEINE-STR. . ied e TaubenUnter den Linden 1 erw urstr Rungestr. gra b en str. Museum of Museum n . i atha 7 S c h if f r e Museum 7 de GeorgenPaul-Löbe-Allee STRASSE rleDDR Bo R . -KolmarGertrud Str. März r S t r. Jerusalemer Ge r tr au d elms Wilh en str . str.

Today’s busy commercial artery began as nothing more than a humble log road. and attempted escape devices (chairlifts.m. The museum. Friedrichstrasse 43–45. Kurfürstendamm at Breitscheidplatz. Admission: Free. Open: Daily 9 a. The street still is a wonderful place to shop.m.–7 p. Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery) Kulturforum. including works by de Chirico. 143. and two bitter and brilliant oils by . U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk south on Budapester Strasse).–10 p. and elegant street in this part of Berlin. contains a small but impressive collection of international 20th-century painting and sculpture. Tiergarten The only “old” structure in the aggressively modern Kulturforum complex is the New National Gallery. sit. the Ku-Damm was the most brilliant. Of special interest are the paintings by early. filled with legendary cafes and renowned for its nightlife. and Frank Stella. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (you are on the Ku-Damm when you exit the station). For years the Ku-Damm hogged all the city’s glamour because dreary East Berlin had nothing to rival it. Mark Rothko. newspaper clippings. and Otto Dix. The photographs.50€ ($12) adults. Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Wall Museum at Checkpoint Charlie) Kreuzberg If you’re interested in the history of the Berlin Wall. even a minisub) used by East Germans may give you a new take on the meaning of freedom. Open: Memorial church Mon–Sat 10 a.m.m.75€ ($6) children and students. It’s currently going through a rebuilding phase to spruce itself up and lure people back from eastern Berlin.mauermuseum. lively.m. and people-watch. this small museum in Kreuzberg is well worth an hour of your time. Located near what once was Checkpoint Charlie. the museum documents the wall’s history from its construction in 1961 to its fall in 1989 to 1990. www. 147.148 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map on p.. See map on p. 143. hot-air balloons. the most frequently used traffic crossing into East Berlin. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse (then a 5-minute walk north on Friedrichstrasse). % 030/218-5023. built in 1542 for the Prince-Electors (Kurfürsten) to reach their hunting lodge in the Grünewald more mid-20th-century German artists Max Beckmann. Admission: 9. % 030/253-7250. false passports. Max Ernst. new church daily 9 a. Miró. 4. Kurfürstendamm Tiergarten The famous boulevard known as the Ku-Damm is western Berlin’s answer to Paris’s Champs-Elysées. designed in 1968 by famed German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. From the start of the 20th century until WWII.–4 p. com. an enormous expanse of glass windows and simple symmetry. Dalí.m. See map p. stroll.

the Kulturforum. and entertainment. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Around newly created Marlene-Dietrich-Platz. dating from 180 to 160 B. 143.). free Thurs 6–10 p. and cafes invite you to shop and relax. And what you must see is the Pergamon Altar. 165).m. Mitte Of all the museums on Museum Island. 4€ ($5) children and students. and Assyria.C. will undergo an internal and external face-lift (costing 351€ million /$ 420 million) starting in 2011.. In 1961. upscale housing.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 149 George Grosz that capture the decadent despair of the Weimar years in the 1920s.). Persia. and the Tiergarten. See map p. you find the Stella Musical Theater. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to the Museum Island). government offices. stroll along the Potsdamer Platz Arcades. Another showpiece is the ornate two-storied Market Gate of Miletus.D. corporations like Sony and Mercedes-Benz rushed in and bought the entire area. Potsdamer Platz Tiergarten Before WWII. Potsdamer Strasse 50. and the Cine-Max cinema center. the renowned Pergamon Museum is the one must-see (along with the bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti in the Altes Museum). the square was cut off from the western sector by the wall and became an ugly strip of mined no-man’s-land.–6 p. Am Kupfergraben.). (Thurs until 10 p. See map on p. To experience the area. the Berlin Casino. 147. a Roman building facade from the time of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (around A.m. 4€ ($5) students and children. Potsdamer Platz was the busiest spot in Berlin. Potsdamer Platz is a brand-new. the altar was discovered in 1876 in western Turkey. restaurants. the Grand Hyatt Hotel.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. The gallery also is used for special traveling exhibitions. After reunification. where 140 stores.m. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (you are on Potsdamer Platz as you exit the station). When you see its grim facade. The Near East Museum in the museum’s south wing contains one of the largest collections anywhere of antiquities from ancient Babylonia.–6 p. One of the most visited attractions is the Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz (% 030/2094-5400). free admission Thurs 6–10 p. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.m. % 030/266-2951. Part of the enormous Temple of Zeus and Athena. Pergamon Museum Museum Island. Sat–Sun 11 a. you’ll understand why. . considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and still holding its own today. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk south on Potsdamer Strasse). 143. The entire museum. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. Today.m.m. one of the most popular in the city. (Thurs until 10 p. supermodern showcase of corporate glitz. the Madison City Suites. % 030/2090-5577.m.m. which has two movie theaters and a viewing area from which you can look out over the Philharmonie.–6 p.m. See map p.

143. who. After a security check. The buildings. a complicated process of restoring the buildings and reuniting various collections from the East and West began. the street that follows the river). The domed neo-baroque Bode Museum at the far northern end of the island and the Altes Museum with its Egyptian and classical antiquities collections reopened in 2005 and 2006 respectively after extensive interior modernization. too. . U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west along the Reichstagufer. Open: Dome daily 8 a. UNESCO is the United Nations Educational. so I don’t include it in this guide. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the first to reopen its doors after undergoing post-reunification refurbishment. Reichstag (House of Parliament) Tiergarten The Reichstag is the seat of the reunified German Parliament. and Cultural Organization.m. After reunification. The massive Pergamon Museum. Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) Charlottenburg The oldest section of this lovely. See map p. The Neues Museum is closed until 2008. Scientific. will close in 2011 for several years while it. one of the most popular museums in Berlin. gets a much-needed makeover. where a sweeping vista of Berlin opens out before you.m. % 030/2273-2131. Admission: Free. Allied bombs destroyed part of the Reichstag in WWII. the building was partially destroyed by a fire in 1933 that probably was set by the Nazis. The dome also has an outdoor observation area and a rooftop restaurant with so-so food (reservations % 030/226-2990). used the incident as an opportunity to seize power. were constructed after Frederick William III issued a decree stipulating that the privately owned artwork of the royal family needed to be made accessible to the public. Today. some dating back to the early and mid 19th century. blaming the fire on the Communists. you may have to stand in line for up to three hours before getting in.150 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Museumsinsel (Museum Island): Art by decree Five museums on an island in the River Spree form the oldest museum complex in Berlin and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. you take an elevator up to the dome. Platz der Republik. I recommend that you arrive as early as possible. otherwise. Built in a pompous high-Renaissance style between 1884 and 1894.–10 p. the wife of Friedrich I. yellow baroque palace was built in 1695 as a breezy summer abode for Sophie Charlotte. Much of the palace was destroyed in WWII and painstakingly reconstructed. a new glass dome designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster crowns the building. but the other four museums are definitely worth exploring. The museums were the main attractions in old East Berlin. Its present form dates from 1790.

on your own. you find the Hansaviertel (Hansa Quarter). give yourself a couple of hours. which is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. is the most famous of the Tiergarten’s . This former royal teahouse contains exquisite Berlin porcelain. With a combined ticket.m. (Tiergarten also is the name of Berlin’s smallest neighborhood. ponds. which is described in the “Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium)” listing later in this and the royal chapel. % 0331/969-4202. the Tiergarten park is a great place to stroll and relax. trees were replanted and walkways. the eye-catching porcelain room.spsg. 145.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 151 You can see the palace only on a tour. www. At the far end of the Schlossgarten. Galerie der Romantik.m. It was originally was laid out by Peter Josef Lenné. and more than 23km (14 miles) of meandering paths. is the Belvedere. an Italianate summer house designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. The tour is given only in German (you can buy an English-language guidebook at the ticket counter) and includes the historical rooms. km (1 sq.–5 p.75) children for this museum. and the beautifully landscaped Schlossgarten (palace gardens). as a private park for the electors of Prussia. The Siegessäule (Victory Column). with its fine collection of paintings from the neoclassical. Luisenplatz. (last tour at 5 p. “animal garden”) covers almost 2. the leading architect of the day. 3€ ($ 3. close to the Spree River. the residence of Germany’s president. The park was devastated during and just after WWII. the living quarters of Friedrich I and Sophie Charlotte. when desperate citizens chopped down the trees for fuel. Open: Palace and museums Tues–Sun 9 a. and pretty Schloss (Palace) Bellevue (S-Bahn: Bellevue).m. you can. leafy trees. in the Langhansbau wing. additionally visit the Galerie der Romantik. Tiergarten Tiergarten The popular Tiergarten (literally. Beginning in 1955. Admission: Combination ticket for historical rooms.5 sq.). you need at least four to five hours. If you just want to stroll. to 5 p. You must pay a separate admission of 6€ ($ 7. In the Schlossgarten. and Schlossgarten 8€ ($10) adults. a residential area where architects were invited to build projects in the 1950s.m. 5€ ($6. canals.50) adults. much of it from the 1700s. occupies the park’s southwestern corner. To see the palace and museums. displays the famous Schliemann collection of antiquities from Troy.m. Romantic. and to take that tour you have to don huge felt slippers (so you’re effectively polishing the wood floors as you slide around after the guide). and Biedermeier periods. U-Bahn: SophieCharlotte-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Schlossstrasse). you find the charming Schinkel Pavilion.25) children. See map p. a golden goddess of victory perched high atop a red-granite pedestal.) With its lawns. in 1825. In the northwestern corner.und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History). The Museum für Vor. mile) and is the most popular green space in central Berlin. one of the great landscape architects of the early 19th century. The Berlin Zoo. and flower beds restored to their original patterns.

Admission is 1€ ($ 1. Friedrich Schinkel’s 1818 Neue Wache (New Watch) served as headquarters for the King’s Guard and now contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Tomb of the Unknown Resistance www. on the east by Berlin-Mitte. Bounded on the west by Bahnhof Zoo and the Europa Center. with more than 550 species of birds. 147. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. many of them in open habitats. and other creatures. which means “under the lindens. The most popular residents are the giant pandas. 5.50€ . Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s most famous and historically significant streets. Lustgarten. The name. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you are on the avenue as you exit the station). The zoo also has a modern aviary. the Brandenburg Gate. See map p. www. with several monumental buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries.000 fish. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (the entrance is a 3-minute walk east on Budapester Strasse). reptiles. 143.–8 p. is also located here. This boulevard is the oldest and royalest in central Berlin. Admission: Zoo 11€ ($14) adults.m. open daily 9 a. The aquarium is home to more than 9.” came from the linden trees that were originally planted along the street. is open daily from 9:30 a. S-Bahn: Tiergarten or Bellevue. 143.zoo-berlin.) observation platform. % 030/25-40-10. and Potsdamer Platz. The giant Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral. The column’s 48m-high (157-ft. insects. See map p. amphibians.25) for adults. the historically significant buildings along Unter den Linden were spruced up and the avenue filled up with souvenir shops.152 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany many monuments. to 6:30 p. Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium) Tiergarten Founded in 1844. and cafes. Berlin’s largest baroque building and the first (1706) major building to be constructed on Unter den Linden.) squats at the end of Unter den Linden. houses the Deutsches Museum (see the later section on “Finding more cool things to see and do”). More than 13. The column stands in the center of the Strasse des 17 Juni.000 animals live here. The Zeughaus (Armory). See map p. With kids in tow you can easily spend half a day in the zoo and aquarium.m. the oldest of Berlin’s three opera houses. Bus: 100. Following reunification. The hippoquarium is a new attraction. luxury car showrooms. reached by climbing up a 290-step spiral staircase. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or Hansaplatz. Germany’s oldest and Europe’s largest zoo occupies almost the entire southwest corner of the Tiergarten. Unter den Linden Mitte Laid out in 1647 and extending a bit more than a kilometer (3⁄4 mile) east from the Brandenburg Gate. free for children younger than a wide boulevard that bisects the Tiergarten and is the western extension of Unter den Linden.aquarium-berlin. Hardenbergplatz 8.

which sought to combine art. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). The Palm House is one of the largest in the world.25) for adults. Admission is 5€ ($6.m. and crafts. ߜ The DDR Museum.. The garden is open daily from 9 a. www. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). www. You need at least an hour to peruse the exhibits. hands-on experience of everyday life in the Communist DDR (Deutsche Democratische Republik. houses one of the world’s finest collections of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and Art Deco furniture. ߜ The Bauhaus–Archiv Museum für Gestaltung (BauhausDesign Museum). English-language texts and audio guides describing the exhibits are available.25). gardens and many other places to visit — you won’t be lacking of things to do.ddr-museum.m. near the Tiergarten. combined ticket 17€ ($25) adults. ߜ The Bröhan Museum.m. and technology. is dedicated to the Bauhaus school. is open Wednesday through Monday from 10 Oct 15–Mar 14 daily 9 a. Königin-LuiseStrasse 6–8 (% 030/8385-0100.50€ ($3) for children. Berlin newest new museum.botanischer-gartenberlin.50€ ($) children. brohan-museum. aquarium 11€ ($14) adults. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1 (% 030/847-123-731. moved to Dessau. The museum. 5. www. . S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten. a completely decorated set of rooms from a luxurious private residence of the 1920s and 1930s. contains vast collections of European and exotic plants. ߜ Berlin’s Botanischer Garten (Botanical Garden).–6 to 6 p. Admission is 5€ ($6. Give yourself an hour or so to stroll through the garden itself. silverware. aquarium year-round daily 9 a. design. completed in 1979. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz).. Klingelhöferstrasse 14 (% 030/254-0020. to 5 p. The museum is small enough that you can see everything in an hour. glass. free for children 12 and younger. all from 1889 to 1939. painting. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 at Weimar.m. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. Here are additional places that you may find of interest. including a garden for blind visitors and another with water plants.m. The museum. is one of the last works of the great Berlin-born architect Walter Gropius. de. of more interest to dedicated gardeners than the general public. 4€ ($5) children younger than 12. U-Bahn: Dahlem–Dorf). A must-see is the Suite Emile-Jacques Ruhlman.–6:30 p. Open: Zoo Mar 15–Oct 14 daily 9 a. is also on the premises.50€ ($7) children.m.m. and finally settled in Berlin. located near the Dahlem Museums on the outskirts of Berlin. Schlossstrasse 1A (% 030/3269-0600.m. Finding more cool things to see and do Berlin is full of museums. Admission is 7€ ($9) adults. offers an interesting.–6 p.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 153 ($7) children. A small botanical museum (open daily 10 a.). You also find an extensive arboretum and several special collections. 8. 2. before the Nazis forced the school to disband in 1933. free on first Wednesday of every month. to dusk.m.–5 p.m.m.m.

it’s a sobering experience.m. The museum is open daily from 10 a. while the eastern border is roughly marked off by four lakes: .m.). Panoramastrasse 1a.m. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). letters.m. winds past several picturesque bays and beaches along the Havel River.-km (15-sq. or German Democratic Republic. The rooms are set up chronologically. Visitors can sit in a The tower is open daily March through October from 9 a. (Thurs until 8 p. ߜ The Filmmuseum Berlin. There’s a kind of heartfelt.filmmuseum-berlin. is a new museum housed in the old Zeughaus (Armory).50) for adults. located on the Spreepromenade directly opposite the Berlin forest that begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm. ߜ The Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. in English) before the fall of the wall in 1989.. and 3€ ($3. to midnight. and documents. a 39-sq. Havelchausee. From Heerstrasse.154 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany called the GDR.50) for children under 16. The entire history of German cinema is documented in rare film clips from the silent era up to the present. and daily November through February from 10 a. You need at least an hour here. ߜ The Fernsehturm am Alexanderplatz (Television Tower). to 6 p. Berliners call it “the speared onion” because of its shape. the DDR’s version of a car. the forest’s western border.50€ ($4.m. costumes. this one is exhaustive and can be exhausting because it attempts to cover 2. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt).m. Alexanderplatz (% 030/ Personally.25). The museum.) Admission is 5€ ($6. props. Unter den Linden 2 (% 030/20304-444. appeals to anyone who has an interest in German film or film in general.berliner fernsehturm. the forest stretches some 10km (6 miles) south to the popular Wannsee lake.m. is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. www.m. One wing is devoted to the legendary Marlene Dietrich. www. An elevator whisks you up to the top for a stunning panorama. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). I would recommend that you visit the first-floor galleries devoted to World War II. (Sat until 10 p. www. admission is 4€ ($5). Sony Center in Potsdamerstrasse 2 (% 030/300-9030. The elevator to the top costs 8€ ($10) for adults and 3. explore a typical DDR living room. You find a revolving restaurant (the Telecafe) up there. nostalgic charm to many of the exhibits. to midnight. to 6 p. a native Berliner who catapulted to international fame in 1930 in Josef von Sternberg’s Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel) and went on to become Germany’s only major star in Hollywood. to 8 p. Admission is 6€ ($7. is a weird-looking television tower built by the Communists back in the 1960s. too. The fascinating Marlene memorabilia includes photos. and rummage through drawers and closets.m. open doors.dhm. is open daily from 10 a.000 years of German history in pictures and documents. ߜ The Grünewald (S-Bahn: Grünewald).75) for students.m. Like many German museums.

and Schildhorn. up to 500.mann-o-meter. Fasanenstrasse 24 (% 030/882-5210. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 2 to 6 p. although on weekends you have plenty of company. and other languages. Prenzlauer Berg has become the new gay area. www. and other political victims. Saturday until 5 p. nonfiction. Another good source for information is Eisenherz Nollendorfplatz is the site of the Lesbisch-Schwules Stadtfest (LesbianGay Street Fair). is devoted to the powerful works of Berlinborn artist Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945). Kreuzberg is another gay-friendly borough with a big selection of bars. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm).m. The city’s gay information center is Mann-oMeter. art books. and the city remains a mecca for international gay and lesbian travelers. the Grünewald (Green Forest) is a good place to get away from the urban jungle.m. In the eastern part of the city. Schlachtensee. A memorial plaque mounted on the outside south wall of the Nollendorfplatz subway station. is a large gallery-like space in Kreuzberg with changing exhibitions on gay life in Germany and around the world. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). The center is open Monday through Friday from 5 to 9 p. S-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). The Schwules Museum (Gay Museum). U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse).prinz-eisenherz. lesbian and gay life has centered around Nollendorfplatz (U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). one of the world’s oldest gay and lesbian bookstores. The gay scene is more international in the area around Nollendorfplatz. The Homosexual Victims of National Socialism). Berlin is the only city in the world with a gay museum. The Christopher Street Day parade is an even larger citywide gay event that takes place the last week in June. stocks a vast array of new and rare fiction.. English. Bülowstrasse 106 (% 030/216-3336. which has had gay bars since the 1920s. More information on gay life in Berlin is available on the Web site www. to 8 p. The first woman ever .Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 155 Gay and lesbian Berlin Berlin has a century-old gay and lesbian history. In mid-June.schwulesmuseum. Grünewaldsee. open daily from 10 Loaded with wooded paths and sandy The staff is knowledgeable and helpful. Also see Chapter 9. Mehringdamm 61 (% 030/6959-9050. Love Parade/Love Week in July attracts thousands to a huge gay party scene. ߜ The Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum. see “Checking out the dance clubs and bars. Admission is 5€ ($6. the so-called Pink (or Gay) Village. in the heart of what has been for decades the gay heart of Berlin. reads: Totgeschlagen-Totgeschiegen.m..25). and magazines in German.000 people congregate for this Gay Pride festival. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder that the Nazis exterminated thousands of homosexuals in addition to millions of Jews.” later in this chapter. The store.m. Den Homosexuellen Opfern des National Socialismus (Killed and For my recommended gay and lesbian nightspots. Lietzenburger Strasse 9a (% 030/313-9936. www. Traditionally. Krumme Lanke.

open Tues–Sun 10 a. Reconstructed palaces. the Golden 1920s. Admission is 8€ ($10) for adults. You also find a nice cafeteria. 4€ ($5) for children.m. showcases several important paintings by Picasso and works by Klee. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). ߜ The Story of Berlin. U-/S-Bahn: Mendelssohn–Bartholdy–Park).m. WWII and its aftermath. not far from the Gendarmenmarkt in Berlin Mitte. Admission is 6€ ($7.m. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. Many of Kollwitz’s works express the sorrow..m. The Nazis later banned her works. the church was restored in time for the city’s 750th anniversary in 1987. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). open from 10 a. ߜ Kunstgewerbemuseum (Arts and Crafts Museum). is a collection of medieval church articles in gold and silver. to 6 p. ߜ Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit (Berggruen Museum: Picasso and His Times). loss. is an enjoyable multimedia museum that uses films. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.156 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany elected to the Prussian Academy of the Arts. Kollwitz resigned her position in 1933 to protest Hitler’s rise to power. Nicholas. and Giacometti. You can see the collection in about half an hour. Ku’damm-Karree.75) for children and students. to 6 p. your ticket for the Gemäldegalerie will get you in. photos.m. period taverns. % 030/ 2472-4529. and old churches make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque ramble along the Spree River. is a historic riverside quarter restored to resemble its medieval and baroque heyday (with a few modern design touches). The basement rooms display contemporary design from the German Bauhaus school to American Charles Eames and the Memphis design group.m. Beginning with the city’s founding in 1237.75) for students and children. Matisse. the themed exhibits chronicle all the major historical events. a small museum located across from the Egyptian Museum in Charlottenburg. the quarter was the last major reconstruction project of the German Democratic Party that ruled former East Germany. down narrow streets illuminated by gas lanterns. the Nikolaikirche (Church of St. 3€ ($3. to 4:30 p. its most dazzling exhibit.25) for adults. Matthäiskirchplatz. the upper floors contain sculptures. grieving quality. ߜ Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter.m.m.m. including the reign of Frederick the Great. displays applied arts and crafts from the Middle Ages through the present day. Schlossstrasse 1 (% 030/3269-5819. and deprivations of wartime and have a stark. sounds. Braque. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse). The lower floors of the museum display woodcuts and lithographs.). to 6 p. to 6 p. The Guelph Treasure. and 3€ ($3. the Industrial Revolution.m.–6 p. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 11 a.50) for adults. Named for Berlin’s oldest church. Kulturforum (% 030/2090-5555.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. and colorful displays to tell about eight centuries of life in Berlin. Kurfürstendamm 207–208 (% 030/8872-0100.m. Admission is 5€ ($6. Nikolaikirchplatz. see earlier description). . adjoining the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery.

a guide takes you down to visit an underground nuclear bomb shelter built in the 1970s. the cheapest bus tour of Berlin is public bus 100. . 3.).50) for children. and 2 p. Severin+Kühn offers its Potsdam/Sanssouci tour on Tuesday. 7. At the end of the tour. and Sundays.). (last admission 6 p.. or by boat. tour on Fridays. making them accessible and enjoyable for kids and adults.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 157 divided Berlin during the Cold War. Saturday. Adolf Hitler. to 6 p. including the Europa Center. and Sunday at 10 a. www. and the fall of the wall. and Potsdamer Platz. Admission is free.m. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. Allow at least two hours to see everything. the Brandenburg Gate. The exhibit is open daily from 10 a.m. From November through March.m. You can get on and off the bus at any point during the hour.m. daily. Admission is 9. May–Sept). From April through October.m. located in what once was part of the Nazi SS and Gestapo headquarters. Departures are Tuesday through Sunday at 10 a. Thursday.30€ ($12) for adults. and covers more sites (and includes add-ons like Potsdam or a river cruise). Bus tours Severin+Kühn. 2 children).severinkuehn-berlin. Severin+Kühn also conducts an interesting tour of Potsdam. All tours include a guide who delivers commentaries in German and English. The museum is open daily from 10 a. (Nov–Mar until 3 p.50€ ($9) for students. Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 (% 030/2548-6703. to 8 p. (until 8 p. You can tour Germany’s capital with an experienced guide by bus. Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour Taking a guided sightseeing tour (Stadtrundfahrt) can help you to see parts of this huge city that you may otherwise miss. The price is 37€ ($46) per person. and 21€ ($26) for families (2 adults. This attraction is a good overall introduction to Berlin that teens may enjoy.m.m. with an additional 2:15 p. site of the palace of Sanssouci. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). to 6 p.m. head upstairs to the front seats for the best views. You can catch the double-decker bus in front of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and passes most of the major sites in western and eastern Berlin. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Saturdays. The same company’s three-hour “Big Berlin Tour” departs at 10 a. former residence of Frederick the Great (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). costs 22€ ($27) per person. The tour passes 14 important stops in Berlin. Although you don’t get a guide. on foot. is an open-air exhibit detailing how the Nazis came to power and the crimes against humanity they committed under the leadership of der Führer.50€ ($4.m. ߜ Topographie des Terrors (Topography of Terror).m.m. Tickets cost 20€ ($25) per person.m. offers a two-hour “City Circle Tour” that departs daily every half-hour from 10

m. . This walk starts daily at 10 a. Tours last from 21⁄2 to 3 hours and cost 12€ ($15) for adults.m. free for children younger than 14. on Sunday.m. For a quick and interesting take on Berlin from the water. Mondays from March through September. the city’s best-known boat operator. limited-time suggestions that include the top Berlin sights.158 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Walking tours For an excellent introduction to Berlin and its history. You meet the guide.und Kreisschiffahrt. (Nov–Mar at 10 a. see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z” earlier in this chapter. only). the one-hour “Inner City” trip (8€/$10) departing from Nikolaiviertel offers good views of the Reichstag. “Jewish Life in Berlin” takes you through the prewar Jewish community. you can request an English translation). and the monumental heart of the former East Berlin. try one of the English-language walking tours offered by Original Berlin Walks (% 030/ 301-9194. What do you see if you have only one. the tour starts at 10 a.sternundkreis. 10 a. and 2:30 p. Following an Itinerary Every visitor to Berlin faces one problem: how to see as much as possible in a limited amount of time. though. “Infamous Third Reich Sites” focuses on the sites of major Nazi buildings in central Berlin. the Pergamon Museum. just walk along the Spreepromenade behind the Berlin cathedral. Be aware.m. with an additional Wednesday 10 a. Stern. For descriptions of most of the stops. The same company offers other boat tours from Jannowitzbrücke in Berlin-Mitte Schlossbrücke near Charlottenburg Palace. 10€ ($13) for those younger than the Königliche Bibliothek (Royal Library). in front of the taxi stand. such as Goebbels’s Propaganda Ministry and Hitler’s New Reichschancellery. this tour. www. or three days at your disposal? The itineraries in this section are common-sense. “Discover Berlin” is a three-hour introductory tour that takes you past the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate.m. two.m. and you’ll find several landing docks with waiting boats. tour from April through September (Sat only at 1 p.berlinwalks. and Hafen Treptow. Nov–Mar). offers boat trips from April through October. available March through October. Boat tours A boat tour is the most unusual way to see portions of Berlin. Several other companies offer boat tours as well. Local waterways include the Spree and Havel rivers — ranging in size from narrow channels to large lakes — in addition to the many canals created in the 19th www.m. that all of its tours are given only in German (on most tours. among other major sites. on Saturday. who wears a Berlin Walks badge. outside the main entrance to Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). You don’t need advance reservations for any of the tours. starts at 2:30 p.m. Pushkinallee 60–70 (% 030/536-3600.

Don’t expect a lot of “deals” in Berlin. But keep in mind that you’ll pay less for goods made in Germany and the European Union than for goods imported to Germany from the United States. In the evening. First visit the Reichstag.m. followed by a visit to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) and the Neue Nationalgalerie. to 6 or 6:30 p. are prized for their quality.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 159 If you have one day in Berlin Start early. china. If you have two days in Berlin On the second day. Most stores in Berlin are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a.m. a concert. often to 8:30 p. see the “Berlin flea markets” sidebar. but Sunday shopping is otherwise not common.m. Shopping for Local Treasures Berlin is a great shopping city and you can find just about anything you want. Saturday hours usually are from 9 or 10 a. for example. and then go on to Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) for a palace tour. stop in at Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. symbol of Berlin. Many stay open late on Thursday evenings. Some stores in highly trafficked areas (such as the Hauptbahnhof) are open on Sunday. or a cabaret/variety show. and end with a stroll down Unter den Linden or the Kurfürstendamm. where the new dome provides a marvelous view out over the city. For the two major Trödelmarkts (flea markets).” earlier).m. From there you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. Afterward. head over to the Jüdisches Museum in Freuzberg or explore the Tiergarten. and their prices are lower here than in the United States.m. German porcelain. In the evening. then walk down Unter den Linden. . In the afternoon. take a walking or bus tour of Berlin (see “Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour. enjoy an opera. both in the Kulturforum. and cutlery. If you have three days in Berlin Spend half of the third day in Potsdam. with its Cold War museum. visiting the palace of Sanssouci and grounds (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). walk along the Kurfürstendamm and dine in a local restaurant. Return to Potsdamer Platz to see the newest section of Berlin. exploring the nearby Gendarmenmarkt and paying a brief visit to the Pergamon Museum to see the Pergamon Altar and/or the Altes Museum to view the famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti. to 2 p. except on the sales racks in the department stores. crystal.

Berlin’s first shopping mall.m. which is currently undergoing a piecemeal renovation/face-lift to bring it up to par with eastern Berlin and lure back shoppers. all-around shopping. The shopping scene has definitely moved east as well. and used clothing. outdoor retail “passage” created right on the Ku-Damm at Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Stores here often are cheaper than on the fancier KuDamm. Ranke Strasse. is Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) and its intersecting streets: Marburger Strasse. the only decent shopping was in western Berlin. truth to tell. But. trendier. S-Bahn: Tiergarten). in addition to stores carrying cheap souvenirs and T-shirts. but it’s best to come early because many traders leave by midafternoon. who come to find pieces of kitsch. The Berliner Trödelmarkt (no phone. and 6 p. the Europa Center (% 030/3480088). which remains the best place for allpurpose. including books.. many specializing in German fashions for women. here you’ll find antiques and collectibles.160 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Shopping in western Berlin Throughout the decades when the wall divided Berlin. If nothing catches your fancy. adjacent to the Tiergarten S-Bahn station near the corner of the Bachstrasse and Strasse des 17 Juni. Another good shopping street in western Berlin. This area offers a wide array of stores. check out the flea market at Arkonaplatz (% 030/786-9764.m. U-Bahn: Reinickendorfer Strasse). especially between Breitscheidplatz and Olivaer Platz. furniture. to 5 p. nostalgia. is on Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). porcelain. The same times apply to the flea market at Heidestrasse (% 030/452-9924. Berlin flea markets A flea market in Germany is called a Trödelmarkt or a Flohmarkt. and more expensive. If you’re in Mitte on Sunday between 10 a. where you can browse for clothing and bric-a-brac.m.m. just take a seat at one of the many cafes around Arkonaplatz and enjoy the scene in one of Berlin’s hippest neighborhoods. sort-of antiques. and Nürnberger Strasse. close to Ku-Damm. line the street. are good shopping grounds. The specialty stores on the side streets around the Ku-Damm. here you find around 75 shops joined by restaurants and cafes. short for Kurfürstendamm (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse). and records. but the stores there tend to be newer. Quality stores. is the favorite weekend shopping spot for countless Berliners. Europa Center has lost much of its allure and looks dated compared to the newly opened Neues Kranzler Eck. The market is open every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. an upscale. . Neighborhoods and malls The main shopping boulevard in the western part of Berlin is the famous Ku-Damm.

home to some of the most exclusive boutiques in the city. household goods. Bleibtreustrasse 30 (% 030/885-0080. Bleibtreustrasse 51 (% 030/312-0913. is a long-established shop for men’s and women’s clothing made in Germany. but here are some lesser-known retail venues that may be of interest to fashionistas. fashionable women’s shoe store with a helpful staff. Wertheim has a large restaurant with a view over half the city. named for the hay barns that once stood here. is good for travel aids and general basics: perfumes. Bogner Zenker-Berlin. contains about 100 shops. some of its oldest buildings survived the World War II bombing raids that reduced most of Berlin to rubble. amazingly. one of the most comprehensive shopping malls in Berlin. Some of the stores offer cost-cutting clothing and housewares. and happening neighborhood area is eastern Berlin’s Scheuneviertel. The Uhland-Passage. Austria. The new Potsdamer Platz Arkaden (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). including haute-couture women’s clothing. and souvenirs. The area later became Berlin’s Jewish quarter. clothing for the entire family. Tauentzien 21 (% 030/21210. and Italy. Bleibgrün. known for its six floors of upscale merchandise and sixth-floor food department. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). electrical devices. The spaces within the courtyards have now been turned into a series of galleries. jewelry. and Sophienstrasse. a small. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Grosse Hamburger Strasse.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 161 Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel The newest shopping. Shoppers interested in quality at any price need to head to Kempinski Plaza. Department stores Kaufhaus des Westens (called KaDeWe [ka-day-vay] for short). has some of the best boutiques and big-name stores in Berlin. or “barn district” (S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). photography supplies. Rosenthaler Strasse. Fashion Every big-name designer you can think of has a store in Berlin. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Chapeaux Hutmode Berlin. Kurfürstendamm 231 (% 030/ 880-030. with more being added all the time. at Uhlandstrasse 170 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). is a huge department store. Wertheim. is a couture hatmaker inspired by vintage fashion magazines and glamorous . studios. and theaters. A grand pre–World War I shopping arcade with interconnected courtyards (Hinterhöfe) occupies most of the block formed by Oranienburger Strasse. scattered over three levels. and. Cutting-edge shops line the streets around the arcade. arts. You find trendier boutiques along Bleibtreustrasse. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Kurfürstendamm 42 (% 030/881-1000. Uhlandstrasse 181–183 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse).

For more shopping in the eastern part.and 19th-century KPM designs. orchestra and chamber concerts. The main street. see “Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel. is a wonderfully old-fashioned parfumerie where most of the scents come from old family recipes. Royal Porcelain Factory). carries the most avant-garde jewelry in Berlin.” in this chapter. is the place to go for contemporary Rosenthal porcelain and china from Bavaria. and theater performances every night of the week. The prices are amazingly reasonable for the quality of the perfumes. Shopping in eastern Berlin The eastern part of the city has undergone major changes in the retail sector since reunification. at the corner of Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). showcasing more than three dozen of the boldest jewelry artisans in the city. The largest shopping mall in eastern Berlin. Kurfürstendamm 226 (% 030/8856340. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). clubs. grasses. Meissener Porzellan. offering a little bit of everything. Charlottenstrasse 34 (% 030/20458166. Berlin’s nightlife is legendary. and chandeliers. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). distilled from flowers. with hundreds of bars. Savignyplatz 13 Passage (% 030/ 3180-2354. sculptures. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). Porcelain and china Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur (KPM. with upmarket boutiques selling everything from women’s fashions to Meissen porcelain.162 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany movies from the 1930s. Friedrichstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). . now offers some of Berlin’s most elegant shopping. Rosenthal. and cabarets appealing to every taste. and leaves. Perfumes Harry Lehmann. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorferstrasse). The performing-arts scene is jammed with opera. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). variety shows. is at the Berliner Markthalle. one of the most famous porcelain manufacturers in Europe. Discovering Nightlife in Berlin You find more going on in Berlin than in any other city in Germany. Kurfürstendamm 27 in Kempinski Hotel Bristol (% 030/8867-2110. sells porcelain pieces hand-painted and handdecorated with patterns based on traditional 18th. Treykorn. Kantstrasse 106 (% 030/324-3582. dance. offers an array of Meissen dinner plates.

which charge a commission. with outlets at Hardenbergstrasse 29 (% 030/2309930. three opera houses.m. you won’t be lacking for things to do. ballet companies. musicals. . both are open Monday through Friday from 10 a. and theater venues throughout Berlin are sold for up to 50 percent off at the BERLIN infostores. Opera and ballet In Charlottenburg. For some of the larger opera. dance. on the S-Bahn bridge at Alexanderplatz (% 030/230-9930. is the 1950s-era opera house that served the former West Berlin. Unsold. ballet. You also can buy tickets Ticket prices range from about 23€ to 80€ ($29–$100). U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). you can buy tickets online. Tickets can usually be purchased right up to curtain time. and classical-music venues. day-of-performance tickets for music. classical concerts. up to the time of performance and on Sunday from 10 a. pronounced kah-suh). so everyone can get home at a reasonable hour. U-Bahn: Deutsche Oper).de. Tickets for more than 100 venues. for locations and opening hours. A Berlin Welcome Card (see Chapter 11) allows you to buy reduced-price tickets (usually 25 percent off) at several major performing-arts venues. the Deutsche Oper Berlin. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Good news for culture vultures: With three major symphony and cabarets are available at Hekticket (www. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garter) and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 12. Getting tickets You can buy tickets at the venue’s box office (the box office is called a you may be able to order tickets online at www. see Chapter 11.m. The box office is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. including the opera houses. and dozens of theaters and cabarets. An excellent online source is www. you can buy tickets from ticket agencies. I include Web sites in this section so you can check performance schedules and ticket information before you arrive in Berlin.. to 2 p. deutscheoperberlin. click “Culture” to access a complete list of events in any category for the specific dates of your visit. Bismarckstrasse 35 (% 030/341-0249 for recorded information or 030/343-8401. Whenever possible.m. including opera. for the latest schedules of what’s going on where. The newest trend is to start performances as early as 6 or Berlin Programm.hekticket. You can see both opera and ballet here in a house with no bad sightlines. If the venue doesn’t have its own Web site.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 163 Finding out what’s happening Check the listings in Zitty (www. to 6 available at all newsstands. www. Alternatively.zitty.

org. The Berliner Grundtheater (% 030/7800-1497. If you don’t speak the language but want to experience German theater. some seats in the upper rings have limited views of the stage. to 7 p. and symphony concerts are performed here. of course. You can buy tickets online. I . Gendarmenmarkt (% 030/203-090. most of the plays are performed in German. Prices ranges from 8€ to 62€ ($10–$77). U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). You can buy tickets at the Konzerthaus box office.komische-oper-berlin. operas. and Sunday from 1 p. The box office (Unter den Linden 4) is open Monday through Saturday from 11 U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). www. and Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 8 p.. the Berlin Symphony. The city’s third major orchestra.m. Symphony orchestras and classical music In the Kulturforum complex. Theater Berlin’s theater scene is outstanding.. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). Ticket prices range from about 7€ ($8. and an hour before performances. pitchperfect is housed in a historic building in Berlin-Mitte.m.75) for standing room to 110€ ($137). www. and one hour before performances. www. to 8 p. performs at both the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt.m.m. I suggest you order your tickets online several weeks before your trip. musicals. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. Matthäikirchstrasse 1 (box office % 030/2548-8999. The Web site www.164 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. Behrenstrasse 55–57 (% 030/4799-7400.staatsoper-berlin. but. Chamber-music concerts are given at the adjoining the renowned Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Sir Simon Rattle plays in the acoustically outstanding Philharmonie. Tickets range from about 20€ to 80€ ($25–$100). S-Bahn: Unter den Linden).m.m. The historic Schauspielhaus in the former East Berlin has undergone a stunning transformation and is now the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 has a useful listing of plays and films in English. to the time of performance.thebgt.konzerthaus.m. so if you want to hear this fabulous orchestra. is a famous and well-respected East Berlin house with a unique artistic identity. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. Berlin Phil concerts always sell out. The Berlin Symphony Orchestra and other orchestras and classical music groups perform in this performs English-language plays in different venues around the city. which is open daily noon to 6 p. Berlin’s Komische Oper. www. The programs feature opera and ballet performances. Different ticket prices apply for each event. Tickets are available at the box offices of both venues. to 2 p. Unter den Linden 7 (% 030/20-35-40.

diestachelschweine.m. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).m. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Ticket prices range from 17€ to 61€ ($21–$76). and Saturday at 6 p. and spending an evening in one can be enjoyable even if you don’t speak a word of German. Potsdamer Strasse 96 (% 030/2500-8888.m. Ticket prices range from about 5€ to 30€ ($6. clowns. matinees on Saturday and Sunday. Monday through Friday. is a cabaret that’s been poking fun at the German and American political scenes for many years now. but most nights (except Mon.m. The most expensive seats are on stage level. depending on the show and the day you attend.25–$37).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 165 recommend going to see a production by the famous Berliner Ensemble.m.m.. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). to 6 p. acrobats. Europa Center. Helene Weigel. Checking out the dance clubs and bars If you’re into nightlife. www. is the largest and most nostalgic Berlin cabaret. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).cabaret-chez-nous. Playwright Bertolt Brecht formed this group with his wife. when the theater’s closed) the performances begin at 8 p. www. and one hour before performances. Chez Nous Travestie-Theater. Part of the performance usually involves a selection of popular songs. www. www. This cabaret is closed in Nightly shows start at 8:30 and 11 p.berliner-ensemble. and Saturday at 6 and 10 p. Tauentzienstrasse and Budapester Strasse (% 030/ you can find something to do all across the city. Believing that these glamorous ladies are really gentlemen sometimes is difficult. is a famous little cabaret where all the performers are in extravagant drag and most of the audience is jugglers.m.m. friedrichstadtpalast. Cabarets and variety shows Berlin has long been famous for its cabarets and variety shows. and 9:15 p. For more listings. is a big theater that features variety acts from around the world. Die Stachelschweine (The Porcupine).de. wintergarten-variete. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1 (% 030/2840-8155. with a nightly variety show featuring magicians. Cover is 35€ ($44)..m. Cover is 29€ to 59€ ($36–$74). Shows take place Tuesday through Friday at 7:30 p. and live music. balconies have conventional theater seats (but drinks are sold there. . in Mitte. Marburgerstrasse 14 (% 030/213-1810. Friedrichstadt-Palast. Wintergarten Variété. Friedrichstrasse 107 (% 030/2326-2326. and many theater fans enjoy seeing Brecht’s plays performed in “his” theater. www. This section includes just a few of the bars and dance clubs in Berlin. too). The box office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. Shows begin at 8 p. The cover charge is 12€ to 26€ ($14–$32). U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse). visit www. to 6 with 4 p. Shows and showtimes

You always find dancing on Wednesday. Cover is 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). Cover usually is about 5€ ($6.. Friday. and highly danceable music.m. This section includes places that are likely to be around for years to come. Pestalozzistrasse 105 (% 030/313-2550. in trendy Kreuzberg.m.m. to 4 a. U-Bahn: Prinzenstrasse). has two very large rooms.... is a four-story club with live rock shows four nights a week featuring German and international touring bands.m. . the crowd is a hip mixture of gay and straight. The club is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9 p. SO36.m. Cover is 10€ to 16€ ($13–$19). and Saturday nights. Kurfürstendamm 156 (% 030/3200-0717. housed in an old theater with an Egyptian temple interior. is a glossy and popular dance club with a great lighting system. Greifswalderstrasse 224 (% 030/442-7060. Dance clubs Chip. Admission is free on Tuesday and Wednesday when local musicians perform. Quasimodo. a stage for floor shows. The club is open most nights from 10:30 p. draws a young 20-something crowd. where you encounter many different styles of music. Many bars now have an open-ended closing policy. but a packed club can stay open until 6 a.m. The cover ranges from 3€ to 8€ ($3.m. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz).m. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte). including rock and Latin jazz. is Berlin’s top jazz club. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). Berlin Hilton.m. Cover is 3€ to 8€ ($3.m.50€ ($7).m. is a large. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). smoky jazz club featuring musicians from around the world. Hours are Monday to Friday 10 p. Please keep in mind that new bars open and bars close all the time.m. Cover is 5. Knaack-Klub. U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). to 4 a. Metropole. Nollendorfplatz 5 (% 030/217-3680. to 4 a. depending on the night and who’s playing.m. The club is open Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p.25). An empty club may choose to close at 2 a.m. depending on the band.m. in happening Prenzlauer Berg.166 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bars and clubs don’t generally get going until midnight. The club is open Monday through Thursday from 8 p. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). video clips. Mohrenstrasse 30 (% 030/20230. Far Out. otherwise 13€ ($16).m. The club is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 p. Live music A Trane.75–$10). call first to verify. to 4 a. to 2 a. Friday and Saturday from 9 p. Oranienstrasse 190 (% 030/6140-1306. to 4 a. so call first. Kantstrasse 12A (% 030/312-8086. to 4 a.75–$10).m. Club hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 10 p.m. to 5 a.m. and fog machine. Show days vary. is a small. industrial-looking late-night disco that plays mostly high-energy retro rock for a crowd that includes lots of students. Saturday and Sunday until 7 a.

m. These places tend to be fashion-conscious.m. less for a glass of beer. to 4 a. Admission is about 4€ ($5) for concerts. one of the longest and narrowest bars in Berlin. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz). The following bars currently are popular. The club is open Monday through Friday from 8 p. Neighborhood bars: Kneipes and Lokals Do you want to find a casual.m. unpretentious spot for a plain old glass of bier vom Fass (beer on tap)? What you need is a Kneipe (ka-nigh-puh). Reingold.m.50) for a straightforward drink. . is chic and elegant. until 4 a. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). quiet. Popular bars Later is better if you want to go out barhopping and see what’s happening in Berlin. Saturday and Sunday from 8 p. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). 11 Novalistrasse (% 030/2838-7676. is reminiscent of a wood-paneled private club in London.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 167 Wild at Heart. with bands from Germany and elsewhere playing Wednesday through Saturday nights.m. a cozy place similar to a neighborhood pub in the United Kingdom. The Times Bar isn’t a late-nightscene bar. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Many Berliners have a favorite Kneipe where they stop in after work or later in the evening for a beer and a chat with their friends.. A small bar like this sometimes is called a Lokal (low-call). to 10 a. has a menu listing almost 200 drinks and a limited selection of food. rock. Bar am Lützowplatz. Expect to pay at least 6€ ($7. Wienerstrasse 20 (% 030/611-7010. but rather a place where you can relax in a big leather chair and read The Times of London. Times Bar is open daily from 11 a. and rockabilly. is hip and fun. so you may feel out of place if you show up in blue jeans and sneakers. with minimalist décor. Neue Schönhauser Strasse 20 (% 030/2804-5134.m. and they offer meals (see the “Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs” sidebar in this chapter). geared toward a very late-night glamour crowd. Fasanenstrasse 9 (% 030/311-030. features cutting-edge design. and an intriguing mix of people hanging around a long and narrow bar with theatrical lighting that makes almost everyone look attractive. Harry’s is open daily from noon to 2 a. Lützowufer 15 in Grand Hotel Esplanade (% 030/ 2547-8821.m. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). The bar is open daily from 3 p. otherwise free. Lore Berlin is open nightly until 3 a. Lore Berlin.m. The place is open nightly until 4 a. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Bahnhof). cozy. is dedicated to hard-core punk. Lützowplatz 7 (% 030/262-6807. Savoy Hotel.m. and intimate. more for anything exotic.m. to 2 a. great dance music. and photographs of American presidents.m. Brewpubs also are good places to sample beer. pop art. Times Bar. Harry’s New York Bar.

also unfiltered and topfermented. blond. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz). Spreeufer 4 (% 030/242-4244. (See the “Potsdam” map on the next page. a former garrison town on the Havel River. has a darkish amber color.4-liter) serving (3.) . to 10:30 p. and unfiltered. or microbrewery) in Berlin. You can order beer in a smallish 6-ounce (0. Gasthaus Luisenbräu. sauerkraut. Friday and Saturday 10 a.168 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs The first Bierhaus (brewpub. Berlin is home to hundreds of Kneipes and Lokals.60€/$2) or in an 11-ounce (0. is now the capital of the state of Brandenburg. U-Bahn: Bismarckstrasse).000th anniversary in 1993 and has historic sites of its own. and a nice balance of hop bitterness and malt flavor.m. to 12:30 a. You can choose between beers brewed on-premises. to 2 a. Luisenplatz 1 (% 030/341-9388. Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci Frederick the Great’s Schloss Sanssouci (palace of Sanssouci) in Potsdam is the architectural signature of one of Germany’s most dominating personalities. George right outside. You can order hearty portions of German food (meat. Traditional food is served in an adjacent room Monday through Saturday from 11 a. The house beer is a pale.m. The smoky interior of this brewpub is comfortably Old Berlin. The bar can be loud. a yeasty aroma. blond.m. The brewpub is open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a. and salads) to accompany your beer. to midnight. is named after the statue of St.. smoky. to midnight. but be sure to make the palace of Sanssouci your top priority. dumplings. Gaststätte Hoeck is the oldest Kneipe in Charlottenburg and still has its original wood panels with inlaid glass on the walls. topfermented beer. The Gasthof is open daily from 10 a. A famous one is Gaststätte Hoeck. You can also order plates of hearty German food. a brewpub in the Nikolaiviertel beside the River Spree.90–$16). opened in 1987 across the street from Charlottenburg Palace. Allow yourself at least half a day to visit this remarkable palace and its beautiful grounds.20€/$4). Wilmersdorferstrasse 149 (% 030/341-8174. The town celebrated its 1.50€ to 13€ ($12–$16). main courses run from 5. Hours are 8 a. and raucous. the helles (light) is top-fermented. unfiltered.50€ to 13€ ($6. Bartenders pour more than a dozen kinds of beer and serve wine by the glass.m.m.m.m. main courses go for 9. 24km (15 miles) southwest of Berlin. Dating from 1892. even though the building is relatively new. U-Bahn: Klostergasse). The dunkles (dark).2-liter) glass (1.. Potsdam.m. Gasthaus Georgenbräu.

Ossietzky-Str. He zig Tor no eip Im Bogen 631 610 606 Str. tten Charlo str.. The trip couldn’t be easier: From Berlin. Str Kurfü rsten er ass e H. r.-Sachs-Str. 94 95 W BRANDENBURGER VORSTADT St or m . S-Bahn line S7 stops at the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station. Tiefer See Hu Br mbo üc ld ke t- Nu th es Breite Str Forststr. Fried rich-E nge Sch laa tzs tr. Lindenavenue Be konomieweg Ökonomieweg Lennéstr.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 169 Potsdam Hamburg 614 Berlin Potsdam r.60€ ($2). s te r dte g irewe Volta Allee str. . the cost is generally about 40€ ($50) for a half-day fast-track tour. Dortustr. Eichenallee n str. en dt M ran mb Re Am Neuen Palais Linden str. str S-Bahn Station S inr ich t ies te-P en ule str wk . Weinbe Hauptallee lallee e 1 Heg 3 Jägera 2 Sc Friedrich-Ebert-Str. and you’ll almost immediately come to a flight of stairs leading up to the palace. ch- Schloss Charlottenhof Kastanienallee Am Ka n ue Ne en AmGart M an g str. 694 tr. If you don’t want to hassle with anything. Hop on bus no. nal rlin ho 6 7 pe Gregornh Mendel-Str. Feue rba str. au 4 er . str Ze e pp lin . Str. ws Havel -M er an nAl lee L 0 0 0.25 mi N DINING Biergarten 6 Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle” 7 ATTRACTIONS Bildergalerie 5 Chinesische Teehaus 3 Neues Palais 1 Orangerie 2 Schloss Cecilienhof 8 Schloss Sanssouci 4 Information i Railway Getting there To get to Sanssouci.25 km 0. C. The bus fare is 1. turn left. Ne uen 692 en Am Ga B273 Po tsdam er Str. Lo a- St r. Cross the road. 695 in front of the station and ride nine stops to the Schloss Sanssouci stop. rn Bo NEUER GARTEN Heiliger See rsc rten Ki un ds e Am Ruinenberg llee BERLINER VORSTADT er str . you can take one of the Potsdam–Sanssouci bus tours offered by the sightseeing bus companies on Ku-Damm (see “Bus tours” earlier in this chapter). Jungfernsee 8 GERMANY ee ha ll ds Am un Frankfurt Munich Am S Pap pela llee chra g BORNSTEDT Ka th ho arin lzs en tr. lst ze str.-V. 608 ls-Str. Nedlitzer St en str . rgstr s PA R K S A N S S O U C I 5 tr. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof asse i ge Lan cke Brü tr. you must first get to Potsdam.

Discovering the top attractions Potsdam didn’t gain true importance until the “Great Elector” Friedrich Wilhelm (1620–1688) chose the lovely. Sanssouci was built between 1745 and 1747 as Frederick’s summerhouse. brochures.m. Waits in summer months can be up to three hours long. A timed-entry system is in effect at Sanssouci. One of the greatest and most beautiful examples of European rococo. All the buildings listed here are signposted so you won’t get lost on the grounds. you may have to wait for a much later tour. You find another tourist office at Am Neuen Markt 1 (% 0331/275-580).de).m.m. and inexpensive guidebooks for both the town and the palace are available at the Potsdam tourist information office in the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (% 0331/270-9051. (Nov–Mar from 10 a. Fred the Great created the original design for the grounds. The tour is given only in German. (Nov–Mar to 4 p. Your tour time is printed on your ticket. From then on. You can see the palace only on a guided tour costing 8€ ($10) for adults. and philosophy. to 8 p.) and on Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. 1712–1786) built in Potsdam a “small” country palace where he could retire sans souci (without a care) and indulge his passions for music. to 4 p.m. and his planning still is evident in the restored vineyard terraces and the area immediately around the palace. leafy. Before setting off on the tour. Friedrich II (called Frederick the Great. and 5€ ($6.). spend some time wandering through the magnificent landscaped gardens with their bevy of historic buildings.m.m.). Sat–Sun until 2 p. www. poetry.m.25) for children and students. In short. a place where he could let his wig down. (in winter. but information sheets in English are available from the guide. Either before or after your tour. Sanssouci was a summer resort for an enlightened monarch.potsdam. open daily from 9 a. to 5 p. To escape the rigors of Berlin court life. discuss weighty matters with French philosopher Voltaire.m.m. All kinds of rococo treasures fill the palace. which you see on a tour that lasts about 45 minutes. . open Monday through Friday from 9:30 a. and you must ask for them. to 6 p.m. Schloss (Palace) Sanssouci (% 0331/969-4190) is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. If you don’t arrive early. lakey area to be his second seat of residence outside Berlin. and make music with composer Carl Philip Emanuel Bach. Potsdam was a royal hangout. Your ticket tells you what time you can enter the palace to begin your guided tour. you’re required to don huge felt slippers so you don’t scuff the floors.170 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding tourist information Maps.m.

On a guided tour. Dining at Sanssouci From May through September. More interesting are the rooms used for the Potsdam Conference. and Russian dictator Joseph Stalin. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. was completed in 1763 and displays a collection of works from the Italian Renaissance and baroque eras. President Harry Truman. . In the adjacent pavilion. % 0331/969-4181). to 5 p. ߜ The mid-19th-century Orangerie (% 0331/969-4280). open May–Sept daily 10 a. to 5 p. This building is not open to the public.m.m. At the end of WWII. Admission is 2€ ($2. The Orangerie is open mid-May to midOctober. inexpensive bite at the Biergarten kiosk (no phone.S.m. the largest building in Sanssouci park. to 5 p. Admission is 8€ ($10) for a grand tour of all the rooms. including U. (Nov–Mar until 4 p.). Inside you see rococo rooms filled with paintings and antiques. The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.) across the road behind the palace of Sanssouci. on the eastern side of the palace grounds. ߜ Built to look like an English country manor. to 5 p.). Admission is 3€ ($3. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill.50).m. Ornamental “Oriental” buildings like this were all the rage in 18th-century Europe. Admission for the guided tour is 8€ ($10).m.–6 p. was completed in 1769 and used by the Hohenzollern royal family. you can visit the private rooms used by Crown Prince Wilhelm and Princess Cecelie. contains copies of paintings by Raphael and features ornately decorated salons. Schloss Cecilienhof (Cecilienhof Palace.m. (closed Thurs). you can grab a quick. the palace was used as headquarters for the Potsdam Conference attended by the heads of the Allied powers.). ߜ The Neues Palais (New Palace.m.m. You can eat for under 4€ ($5) and sit at outdoor tables. Now the palace serves as a hotel and conference center. The food is basic wursts with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad). (Nov–Mar until 4 p.m.m.). ߜ The Chinesische Teehaus (Chinese Teahouse) is a little gem of a rococo building resembling a pagoda.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 171 ߜ The Bildergalerie (Picture Gallery.m. you find the fancier Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle.75).m. % 0331/969-4200) was a royal residence from 1917 until 1945. The gallery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. to 5 p. 10 a.m. % 0331/969-4255).” where you can order a complete meal (open year-round daily 10 a.m.m. The privileged classes would retire here to drink a new beverage called tea. west of the palace. The palace is open Saturday through Thursday from 9 a.

). Information The main tourist information centers. and on Sunday from 10 a. to 9 p. Country Code and City Code The city code for Berlin is 30. Use 30 whenever you’re calling Berlin from outside Germany. open Monday through Friday 9 a. and Saturday 10 a. the first Saturday of the month. On langer Samstag (longer Saturday).m. If you’re calling within Berlin. call % 030/31-00-31 (24 hours). dial % 112.S. To report a fire or to summon an ambulance. in Neue Kranzler Eck at Ku-Damm and Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). dial % 110. for a per-minute land-line telephone fee.m. Except in the train stations. and Saturday 10 a. Embassies and Consulates See the appendix for the addresses of the Australian. to 1 or 3 p.m. use 030. Emergencies To call the police.m.m. Berlin phone numbers may have from five to eight digits.172 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Fast Facts: Berlin American Express American Express has two main offices: Bayreutherstrasse 37–38 (% 030/21476292. to 2 p. stores are generally not open on Sunday.K. to 6 p. % 01804/ 2255-2362. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). call % 112 for an ambulance. you can locate a doctor through Call a Doc. to 7 p.m. to 6 or 6:30 p. South African. call % 030/8900-4333. Currency Exchange The currency exchange offices in the Hauptbahnhof and Bahnhof Zoo are open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. If you’re within Germany but not in Berlin..m.m. are located in the Hauptbahnhof (U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).m.m. Canadian.m. in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz or Unter den Linden) and under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at . to 2 p. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number.m. ATMs You find ATMs all across Berlin.m.m.m.m.m. shops stay open until 4 or 6 p. In an emergency. Business Hours Most banks are open Monday through Friday 9 a. to 7 p. Irish. embassies and consulates. called BERLIN infostores. See also “Telephone” later in this list and in the appendix. and Friedrichstrasse 172 (% 030/201-7400. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Most other businesses and stores are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. to 1 p. and U. Hospitals Hotel employees are familiar with the location of the nearest hospital emergency room. Two convenient bank branches with 24-hour ATM service are Deutsche Bank at Wittenbergplatz (U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz) and Dresdner Bank at Kurfürstendamm 237 (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).m.. open Monday through Friday 9 a. U. for an emergency dentist. You can also exchange money at American Express (see the beginning of this list for addresses). Some stores stay open late on Thursday (usually until 8:30 p. and Saturday from 9 a.m.m. Dentists and Doctors You’ll find a list of doctors and specialists in the Berlin Yellow Pages or. For an emergency doctor.

Saturday 8 a.bvg. go to the nearest one and look for a sign in the window giving the address of the nearest pharmacy with nighttime hours (such postings are required by law). branch locations are in the Sony Center and Karl-Marx-Strasse 78. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). The same hours . available at most newsstands. www. Pharmacies If you need a pharmacy (Apotheke. Safety Berlin is safer than most large U. In Mitte. Taxis with illuminated roof signs are available. to 6 p. cities.50 and $31) denominations at any post office or news vendor. As in any large metropolis. ah-potay-kuh) at night. to midnight. Single women need to avoid the dimly lit streets in Kreuzberg at night.m. You can also make long-distance calls from post offices. until noon. For more. Most have instructions in English.20€ as you depart. most accept only Telefonkarte (telephone cards). Friedrichstrasse 154 (% 030/204-4817. if there is an attendant. Many phones also accept Visa cards.m. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. check out Chapter 11. Kurfürstendamm 224 (www. located near the Europa you are expected to leave 0. in others.S. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12 (% 030/261-4142. Taxes See the appendix for details. is the Dorotheenstadtische Apotheke. a few steps from Unter den Linden. dial % 110. Post Office The main post office at Joachimstaler Strasse 7 (% 030/8870-8611. easyeverything.50€ to get in through a turnstile.m.m. see the appendix. Internet Access One of Berlin’s largest Internet cafes is EasyEverything. For more about fares and where to call for a taxi. U-/S-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Police To call the police. to midnight. For a centrally located pharmacy.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Alexanderplatz (S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. use a call box marked Inlands und Auslandsgespräche. For hours and other information about each office. To make an international call.m. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Telephones Finding a coin-operated telephone in Berlin is now rare. Restrooms You find public facilities throughout Berlin and at all train terminals.m. to 10 p. Transit Assistance The Transit Authority (BVG. Sunday and holidays from 10 a. which list events around the city. see Chapter 11. which you can purchase in 6€ and 25€ ($7.. 173 Regular post office hours are Monday through Friday 8 a. Some require provides U-Bahn information (% 030/19449) and S-Bahn information (% 030/2974-3333) daily from 6 a. use common sense and caution when you’re in a crowded public area. Maps The most detailed Berlin map with a complete street index is the fold-out Falk plan. Newspapers and Magazines Newsstands carry Zitty and BerlinProgramm. Taxis You can hail taxis along Berlin’s major streets. offering over 300 terminals. go to Europa–Apotheke.m.

de. and www. Web Sites The best overall Web sites for tourist information on Berlin are www. At these sites. shopping. de. restaurants. Weather You can check the weather online before you go at www. and more. . you find information in English about where you can buy tickets and obtain a free transit Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany apply to the BVG information kiosk outside Bahnhof Zoo.zitty.

If you’re traveling in the north. Everyone carries away a different impression of this bustling. Hamburg. km (294 sq. often gray and misty. Lübeck. which also is one of Germany’s 16 federal states. marshlands. A sense of the vast northern seas permeates the city. even during the summer. and lakes. miles). raincoat. Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World Hamburg. In fact. watery landscape that spreads out over 754 sq. For others. a city of “high culture” and elegance and obsessed with making money.Chapter 13 Hamburg. and Bremen were important members of the Hanseatic League. Hansa cities formed trade affiliations that linked northern Germany to the eastern Baltic regions and Scandinavia. trade. Hamburg is sin-city . sunny weather in northern Germany at any time of the year. prosperous city. located on the Elbe River about 100km (62 miles) from the North Sea. Bremen. Don’t expect dry. an umbrella. (See the “Hamburg” map in this chapter. and commerce. and sweater probably will come in handy. even haughty. windswept. Hamburg and Lübeck still retain the term Hansestadt (Hanseatic City) in their official titles. has a flat.) The terrain is characteristic of northern Germany: low. Some find Hamburg to be a bit smug. and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the port city of Hamburg ᮣ Touring the ancient city of Bremen ᮣ Exploring medieval Lübeck T his chapter covers three cities in northern Germany with long histories of seafaring. but also densely green and filled with trees. In medieval times. the most powerful commercial network in Europe.

176 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg ACCOMMODATIONS Aussen Alster 28 Hamburg Marriott 15 Hotel Hafen Hamburg 6 Hotel Side 14 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg 26 Park Hyatt Hamburg 22 Pension Helga Schmidt 25 Wedina 27 DINING Apples Restaurant 22 Cremon Weinkeller 17 Die Rösterei 23 Eisenstein 3 Fischküche Karin Brahm 18 Le Paquebot 20 Melange 6 Ratsweinkeller Hamburg 19 Voltaire Bistro 2 ATTRACTIONS R2 Alster Lake 29 Erotic Art Museum 4 Hafen (Harbor) 5 Hamburger Kunsthalle 24 Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte Strese9 mann strass Rathaus 16 e Reeperbahn 8 4 St. Michaelis a7 str Tierpark Hagenbeck 1 ch ba Wallringpark: Alter Botanischer Garten 13 Grosse Wallanlagen 10 Kleine Wallanlagen 11 Planten und Blomen 12 Keiler 1 HOHELUFT Le hm w eg Ho he g R2 or nd r fe we Jungfrauenthal luf tch au sse G E Hamburg Berlin NY Frankfurt M A R Munich pe ism c ar ks tr se as Ep e Innocentiapark B HARVESTEHUDE Werder- Sc asse hla EIMSBÜTTEL Bu nde sstr nk re ye Hallerstrasse ee Be sse Ludw igErha S t r a sr d se Karolinenstr kort stra Al t on asse r ae St ra ss e SternschanzenHeinrichpark HertzTurm Re str ntz as else Planten un Blomen 12 Alter Botanischer Garten Har Feldstrasse 13 Kleine Wallanlagen -Fock rch 11 Go Ha u 4 sse e cis 2 3 ch Heiligengeistfeld au 10 Gla Grosse Wallanlagen ll Gr ilh elm ps all im wa ind am Sc hl elh r-W F r u c h t a ll e e S chä fer k um St Gros Freih se eit Thadenstrasse erL o u ise-S c h r ö d sse Stra Simon -von- Utrecht-Strasse ALTONA 4 ST. PAULI Reepe rbahn 8 Ludw Ho sse 9 lst Schom en of e p Gri nde lalle Eim sbü tte l er Ch burgstra Palmaille Fischmarkt aar tor G r o s s e Elbes t r ass e Elbe Baumwall Alst Sch erfl König Frie eet strass e se ras hst dric Herbert- tr ocht-S hard-N strasse Bern St. Jacobikirche 21 e ss St.-PauliLandungsbrücken 5 asse Schaarsteinweg Blei 6 tin ar rM the se Lu tras S chen 7 trasse fleet Stras s e au s see Bud ape Ka ise ster stra - ra sse ss e ig-Erh ard-S .

-HeussPlatz GustavMahler-Park eruf Se ch sli ng K Ko op pp e ls Wall 14 Ken ne dyb rücke L Lo om mb ba arrd ds sb brrü üc ck ke e An de 27 tra asss se rA l r ste 28 sp fo rte e BORGFELDE lal e W rass st 26 25 24 Hachmannplatz ST. Petri Kirche 19 sse asse gstr sse ldin a Spa nalstr a rdk No Ham me rbr ALTSTADT Do ms 17 e Dov nfle Ob er brü baum cke - Ost-West-Strasse Katharinenstrasse et Am sin B Ba an nks cks tra 18 Kajen stra a sse 0 0 s ss se e 0. Matt Holzb nde Sa ra ss e St. GEORG Hansaplatz S in te da m m 15 CAB asse Str Ba lin da m m Binnenalster Hauptbahnhof öncke 22 M 23 21 22 se as t Steinstr Speersor i Adena K i Ble che nfl eet 20 sse bergstra e ueralle ee r-All ache m u h c S t r u tra M 16 Börse st er g ö n c ke b r. Bremen.25 mi Bro or okt kai Information i 0.Chapter 13: Hamburg. and Lübeck 177 Fer Hochallee strasse nsic ht Gell Hans-H en n erts se tras -W ahn y-J eg BARMBEK Weide strasse Hallerstras Rothenbaumchaussee se Mitte Alsterpark PÖSSELDORF Milchst rasse UHLENHORST se 5 da eA uss i m ch t ds bu m er ROTHERBAUM Aussenalster lweg en wi k HOHENFELDE Müh Mitte hw an M un rg 29 er Sc Alst Th.25 km Ha St mbu ra r ss ge e r Le rc he nf eld Bellevue Be lle Sie vu rich e Herderstrasse stra sse Be et ho n ve str as se He rbe rt-W eic hm ann -St W in te rh ud er W eg Harvest ras Sc h lweg ön huder Weg lend amm er ck e be ss Lü stra Ju ng fe rn sti eg Po sts tra en sse 75 Nag elsw eg ook stra sse N .

this city makes a good headquarters.20€ ($6. By plane Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of the city center is Hamburg Airport. Germans often call it their “gateway to the world. bustling.). land of the lurid Reeperbahn. The one-way fare is 5.m. the trip time is 21⁄2 hours.50€ ($3.178 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany incarnate.airport. you’re as much aware of water as land — Hamburg has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined. an array of easily identified banks with currency-exchange windows. depending on traffic. Hamburg has a huge. not under. and then make a second stop at Hamburg-Altona (% 040/39182387) in the western part of the city. Paul-Baumer-Platz 1–3 (% 040/50750. plane. The terminal contains a tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300) in the arrivals area of terminals 1 and 2 (open daily 5:30 a. which stops in front of terminals 1 and 4. and other independent currency-exchange services and ATMs. .m.ham. A taxi from the airport to the city costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 30 minutes. Hamburg has train connections with all major German and European cities. Most trains arrive at the centrally located Hamburg Hauptbahnhof.” Getting there Hamburg is the largest city in northern Germany and is easy to reach by train. Much of the city was destroyed during World War II (WWII). www. Taxi stands are in front of all the terminals. With its giant port and strongly international flair. Because of the Elbe and two enormous inner-city lakes. Most major European cities have direct flights to Hamburg.10) for children younger than 12. horn-blaring port and sedate late-19th-century neighborhoods.–11 p.) to the city’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station). call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) at % 11861. From Hachmannplatz 10 (% 040/39183046). For train information.m. If you want to explore northern Germany. The easiest way to get into the city is by the Airport Express bus. The bus runs every 15 to 20 minutes (5 a. An S-Bahn line connects the two stations. and car.m.–9:20 p.50) for adults and 2. Intriguing Hamburg is worth a day or two of your time. the journey takes about 25 minutes. By train Hamburg has two major rail stations. which explains why you find historic buildings standing side by side with steel-and-glass structures. a street where sex is sold overthe-counter.

Tickets for all tours are available on the bus and all tours have live commentary in English.Chapter 13: in the main train station near the main starts at 8 from May through October and includes a visit to the St. In the harbor area. Orienting yourself The Hauptbahnhof is located on the eastern fringe of central Hamburg. Cost is 18€ ($22) for adults. from the St. hamburg.m. and Lübeck 179 By car The A1 Autobahn reaches Hamburg from the south and west. including a departs every 30 minutes from 9:30 a. which lasts 2 hours and 30 minutes and includes towns along the Elbe River. Central Hamburg surrounds the Alster. Pösseldorf. Two bridges. Finding information Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg operates the tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300. is a tree-filled residential district with many fine 19th-century villas and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings. the A7 from the north and south. to 6 p. Two canals.. northwest of Aussenalster.m. divide the Alster into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster). Hamburg’s most vital artery and shopping district. The 90-minute Top Tour (www. Cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. and the A24 from the This office is open April through October daily from 8 a.-PauliLandungsbrücken between piers 4 and 5. double-decker buses depart Saturday and Sunday from April through October at 2 p.m. www. Pauli Reeperbahn district.m. Daily tours on double-decker buses operated by Hamburger Stadtrundfahrten (% 040/641-3731) leave from the main train station.m. November through March 10 a. Kirchenallee entrance. The three-hour “Lights of Hamburg” tour (www. Alsterfleet and Bleichenfleet. Bremen.-Pauli-Landungsbrüucken. channeling water from the . and can book a hotel room for you for a 4€ ($5) fee. the city’s commercial and shopping district.m. lichter-tour. to 9 p. to 6 p. Flanking the Binnenalster on the south is the Jungfernstieg. the A23 from the northwest. the Lombardsbrücke and the Kennedybrücke. a lake rimmed by Hamburg’s most significant buildings. (hourly in winter).50) for children. The office is open daily from 8 a. Another good online source of information is www. to 5 p. Hamburg Stadt Rundfahrt (% 040/792-8979) offers the Elbe Tour.m. you find tourist information (% 040/3005-1300) at the St. A word to the wise: Park your car and use public transportation in this busy 7€ ($9) for children up to 14. is 30€ ($37). 6€ ($7. run south from Binnenalster.m. Cost. Taking a bus tour A guided bus tour is the best way to get a feel for Hamburg and its various neighborhoods and special areas.m.

A single one-way fare for both U-Bahn and bus costs 2. a short distance to the south. south of Central Hamburg and the Alster. formerly a city in its own right. you have to depend on public transportation or taxis. % 040/19449. Hamburger Verkehrsverbund (HVV. The western district of Altona. The St. Pauli.180 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Alster to the Elbe.” earlier in this chapter). call % 040/441-011 or 040/666-666. now integrated into Greater Hamburg. and discounts on city tours. www. Taxi meters begin at 2€ ($2. is the scene of Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market). The Reeperbahn. The Port (Hafen) of Hamburg. The Altona neighborhood is a great place to explore or have dinner.90) per kilometer.80€ ($7. discos. The fare. stretches for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River.55€ ($1. Getting around Hamburg Hamburg is not a compact city and can’t be easily covered on foot. You can buy the card at the tourist information offices (see “Finding information. buses. A tageskarte (day ticket) for unlimited use of public transportation costs 5. The U-Bahn (subway) and buses Hamburg’s U-Bahn serves the entire central area and connects with the S-Bahn light-rail trains in the suburbs.75) for one adult and up to three children under 15. A one-day card costs 7. and harbor ferries. The U-Bahn is the fastest means of getting around. is located northwest of the river. A three-day card costs 17€ ($22) for one adult and up to three children.50€ ($3) within Greater Hamburg.hvv. depends on how far you travel. com) operates the U-Bahn (subway). S-Bahn (light rail). admission to 11 Hamburg museums. but buses offer a good alternative and enable you to see more of the city. The HamburgCard is good for travel on all public transport. a famous neon-lit boulevard with cafes. Buy your ticket from the bus driver or from automatic vending machines at U-Bahn stations and bus stops. . the world’s seventh-largest harbor.80€ ($9. sex shows. Taxis For a taxi. A-Bahn (commuter rail). bisects St. the old sailor’s quarter that became the center of Hamburg nightlife. which takes place at dawn every Sunday. guided tours of the port.25) for an adult and includes fare for up to three children traveling with an adult. Many of Hamburg’s finest hotels and restaurants cluster around the Binnenalster and the Rathaus (City Hall). bars. which is the same for both U-Bahn and bus. To see everything of interest. and lake cruises. and music halls. Pauli district.50) and rise 1.

Reeperbahn St. Wandsbek-Gartenstedt Kellinghusenstr. Jungfernstieg Rödingsmarkt Rathaus Neugraben Heimfeld Harburg Rathaus Harburg Bremen Hanover Hammerbrook Hauptbahnhof Steinstr. Messberg 181 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn S3 Neuwiedenthal . Wartenau Lohmühlenstr. Altona Sternschanze Feidstraße Königstr. Rauhes Haus Markenstr. Berliner Tor Mittierer Landweg Allermöhe Netteinburg Wohltorf Reinbek Aumühle S21 Schwerin Berlin Single track section AKN Line DB Line Chapter 13: Hamburg. Bremen. Baumwall Dammtor Step. Landwehr Hammerkirche Horner Rennbahn Bergstr. Pauli Landungsbrücken Messehallen Gän. Halstenbek Krupunder S21 Hagensbeck Tierpark Niendorf Markt Eidelstedt Ost Hagendeel Elbgaustraße A1 Eidelstedt Stellingen Wedel Rissen Iserbrook Emilienstr.Neumünster Ulzberg Süd Ulzburg Süd A2 Richtweg U1 Ohlstedt Lübeck Garstedt Ochsenzoll Hoisbüttel Buckhorn Langenhorn Nord Langenhorn Markt U2 Fuhlsbüttel Nord Hohenneichen Kornweg Berne Ohlsdorf Sengelmannstr. Sülldorf Hochkamp Diebsteich Othmarschen S1 Blankenese Klein Flottbek Bahrenfeld S-Bahn U-Bahn Hudtwaickerstr. Langenfelde Osterstr. Mundsburg Wandsbeker Chaussee Schlump Wandsbek Uhlandstr. Bilstedt Steinfurther Allee Rothenburgsort Mümmelmannsberg U3 Tiefstack Veddel Bilwerder-Moorfleet Wilhelmsberg Lübecker Str. Alsterdorf Lattenkamp U2 Alte Wöhr Habichtstr. Großhansdorf Schmalenbeck Kiekut Kiwittsmoor U1 Norderstedt Mitte A1 Hasioh Bönningstedt Elmshorn Niendorf Nord Schippelsweg Burgwedel S3 Pinneberg Schnelsen Thesdorf Joachim-Mähl-Str. Mön. Barmbek Wandsbeck Ost Alter Teichweg Eppendorfer Baum Borgweg U3 Friedrichsberg HoheDehnhaide Straßburger Straße Klosterstern luttHamburger Str. Sierichstr. Hasselbrook Ritterstr. Trabrennbahn Rübenkamp Farmsen Rahlstedt Fuhlsbüttel Klein Borstel Meinendorfer Weg Wellingsbüttel S1 Poppenbüttel Buchenkamp Volksdorf Ahrensburg West Ahrensburg Ahrensburg Ost. Sta. and Lübeck Bergedorf Buxtehude Stade Holstenstr. Christuskirche Lutterothstr. Wandsbek Markt brucke Hallerstr. Legienstr. Saarlandstr.

Fax: 040/3505-1777. See map p. 176. Fax: 040/2803231. See map p. DC. The 27 midsize rooms are minimalist in terms of décor but very comfortable and meticulously maintained. V. the Schmilinsky. MC. The 227 rooms are priced according to size and degree of luxury. stylish hotel in a late-19th-century building sits on a quiet residential street near the Aussenalster lake. You find an onsite sauna and solarium. Rates: 129€–155€ ($161–$194) double. Geared toward business travelers.” earlier in this chapter). Pauli/Harbor area This Hamburg landmark. 176. The bathrooms are small with shower-tub combinations. The hotel can arrange baby-sitting. Schmilinskystrasse 11. originally built in the mid 19th century as a home for sailors. Aussen Alster $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This small. You will usually find special weekend rates and promotional offers on the hotel Web site. wine bars. % 040/241-557. www. shops.182 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Staying in Hamburg Hamburg is an expensive city with plenty of first-class hotels and a limited number of budget accommodations. The hotel has a fitness center with pool and sauna and can arrange baby-sitting. Rates include well-regarded restaurant. or 040/ 35050. plus an intimate. AE. and restaurants. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk east on Steindamm and west on Stiftstrasse. Rates: 199€–279€ ($248–$349) double. traditionally styled hotel is near the Hanse Viertel. 20099 Hamburg.aussen-alster. You also find hotel-booking desks at the airport. a fashionable area filled with boutiques. Hamburg Marriott $$$$ Central Hamburg This especially in the center of the city. AE. www. The well-done bathrooms have shower-tub The building was restored and converted into a hotel in 1979. Hotel Hafen Hamburg $ –$$$ St. The rooms vary . Hamburg’s tourist information office in the main train station can help you find accommodations (see “Finding information. % 800/228-9290 in the U. offers rooms with panoramic views of the river and harbor. DC.S. MC. If you arrive without a room. ABC Strasse 52. which becomes Schmilinskystrasse). the hotel features an array of business-oriented in-room amenities. and today consists of three adjacent buildings with a total of 255 rooms. 20354 Hamburg. V. Rates include buffet breakfast. See Chapter 22 for details on the Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ($$$$). U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk south on ABC Strasse).

U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). 20354 Hamburg. and a fine-dining restaurant called Apples (see “Dining in Hamburg. Breakfast: 18€ ($22). MC. A stark white and steel high-tech minimalism is offset by dramatic. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Dammtorstrasse and west on Drehbahn). AE. Fax: 040/31113755. AE. 176. Hotel Side $$$$ Central Hamburg Opened in the spring of 2001. but staying here is definitely a memorable experience. Bremen. A terrace on the eighth floor opens onto panoramic views of Hamburg. The luxurious bathrooms have a tub-shower combination. % 040/3332-1234. 20459 Hamburg. Drehbahn 49. the Hafen’s modern sister hotel. 20095 Hamburg. The third and fourth floors are nonsmoking. Built around a central atrium. DC. See map p. You won’t find anything fancy here. Seewartenstrasse 9. but most are large with updated modern furnishings. % 040/311-130. Rates: 100€–200€ ($125–$250) double. MC. DC. Breakfast: 13€ ($16). Fax: 40/ 13: Hamburg. was built in 1995. the 178 good-sized rooms are quiet and comfortable. 176. Lots of wood and warm-toned fabrics adorn the 252 spacious rooms. See map p. The neighboring ship-shaped Hotel Residenz. See map p. all have wellequipped bathrooms with a shower-tub combination. Bugenhagenstrasse Some rooms have private bathrooms with showers. the largest pool in This full-service hotel has virtually every amenity you can imagine.hotel-hamburg. the Hyatt occupies a former trading house from 1912 that was transformed into a hotel in 1998. Amenities include a health club with pool. But the double rooms are of a decent size and have an old-fashioned comfort of their own. Rates: 209€–310€ ($261–$387) double. % 40/309-990. 17-room pension sits right across the street from the superdeluxe Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg (Chapter 22) and costs a fraction of the price. DC. V. others have showers . Park Hyatt Hamburg $$$$ Central Hamburg One of the most beautifully designed hotels in Hamburg. 176. AE.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (then a 7minute walk north through the small park outside the station to Seewartenstrasse). Pension Helga Schmidt $ Central Hamburg This small. glowing colors and contemporary furniture placed as carefully as sculptures. Breakfast: 22€ ($27). www. U-/S-Bahn: St. The large bathrooms have a separate area for Japanese-style soaking tubs. Fax: 40/3099-9399. and Lübeck 183 in size. MC. www. Hotel Side takes high design to new heights. www.” later in this chapter).de. You may find a bit of attitude. V. traditional. Rates: 190€–265€ ($237–$295).

–2:30 p. See map p. In the Park Hyatt Hamburg. V. herring.m. onions. The menu. Traditional meat dishes include Stubenküchen (hamburger steak) and Labskaus — made with plaice. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. and pickle — which is a hearty. AE. corned beef. Appetizers may include ostrich carpaccio or red curry soup. . potatoes. www. is a famous Hamburg dish). Pancakes (Pfannkuchen) with cranberries or other fruit toppings are popular. % 040/280-83-90. Open: Daily 6:30 a. fresh oysters. Fax: 040/243-705. AE. 20099 Hamburg. you have to climb 55 steps. % 040/33321234. protein-packed dish that sailors and dockworkers order. or eel soup.184 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany only and you share a bathroom. Main courses: 23€–31€ ($29–$39). turbot. 176. and yellow). fixedprice menu 50€ ($62). and eel (Aalsuppe. which changes according to seasonal availability. Rate includes breakfast. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). Fresh specials of the day also are available. sole. % 040/280-8900. Fax: 040/280-3894. DC. shrimp. See map p. AE. As a main course. Rates: 108€–165€ ($135–$206) 176. char-grilled turbot and peppers. blue. MC. you usually find lobster. V. 68€ ($85) double with bathroom. features fresh. The smallish bathrooms have a shower-tub combination. Apples Restaurant $$$ –$$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL Centered around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven. On the menus of the city’s many fish restaurants. They range in size from small to medium and are individually decorated with modern furnishings. you may find grilled lobster. DC. MC. Come here for an elegant evening out. Rates: 58€ ($72) double without bathroom. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north along Koppel Strasse to Gurlittstrasse). DC. 176. Tuscan-style garden. or oven-roasted duck. Rates include buffet breakfast. The place is hip without being pretentious. Most of the 42 rooms open onto a small. Reservations required. See map p. you can enjoy breakfast in the privacy of your room. and 6–11 p.wedina. saddle of pork. V.m. www.m. Gurlittstrasse 23. Apples is the showcase restaurant of the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Rote Grütze. 20099 Hamburg. a local dessert specialty. is a compote of red fruits served with vanilla ice cream or cream. Dining in Hamburg It shouldn’t come as any surprise that most of Hamburg’s traditional cuisine comes from the sea. The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. and to reach rooms on the third floor. Holzdamm 14. organically grown produce. In the morning. Wedina $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This recently remodeled hotel is in three different buildings painted three different colors (red. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north on Holzdamm). salmon.

and Italy. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 10-minute walk east on Kajen and north on Cremons). this barrestaurant is a good place to try. with a minimum of fuss. salmon. The food is robust. The restaurant serves four or five hot dishes of fish and meat buffet-style at lunchtime. 176.50€–9€ ($4.–10 p. Sun 10 a. 176.m. and saltimbocca. Friedensallee 9. See map p. See map p. You can eat on the balcony overlooking the shops or in the wood-paneled dining room. Luncheon offerings usually include chicken and fish dishes plus daily specials and several different salads. meat. % 040/362-190. Breakfast: 3. Mönckebergstrasse 7. cheese. Eisenstein $$ –$$$ Altona INTERNATIONAL The menu in this hip Altona restaurant. particularly fresh Atlantic fish.m. V. traditional versions of North German cuisine. From the below-street-level location.25–$9.Chapter 13: Hamburg. The cafe roasts its own coffee beans.m.50) per dish. % 040/3904-606. a platter with crab.m.m. % 040/3039-3735. and 6 p. or afternoon coffee. Reservations recommended. so you can get a cappuccino with your afternoon Kuchen (cake). Bremen. to midnight. jacket potatoes with sour cream and crab or other fillings. See map p. and bread and butter. you can see the Nikolaifleet canal from the windows. fixedprice lunch 14€ ($17). this casual cafe is a good place to stop for breakfast.. . and the service is no-nonsense. For breakfast. a light lunch. Typical offerings include goulash with noodles.m. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and northwest on Bahrenstrasse.–9 p. a cold buffet is available in the evening. Open: Daily noon to 3 p. Japan (including sushi and sashimi). 176.–9 p. homemade pastas. Main courses: 5€–7.m. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a.m. Popular offerings include breast of duck with caramelized cherries.50€ ($6. No credit cards. southern France. Main courses: 9€–12€ ($11–15). Die Rösterei $ Central Hamburg LIGHT MEALS/BREAKFAST/DESSERTS Located in the shopping arcade attached to the Park Hyatt hotel. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Mönckebergstrasse). and the Cremonteller. Cremon 33–34. and Lübeck Cremon Weinkeller $ Harbor area NORTH GERMAN 185 If you want to eat lunch with the locals. you can order eggs. housed in a former tram station. MC. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. includes specialties from Thailand.40–$11). cold cuts. and fresh. sausages. fixed-price dinner 26€ ($32). which becomes Friedensallee). No credit cards. and croissants. Main courses: 8€–26€ ($10–$32). Fischküche Karin Brahm $$ –$$$ Harbor area SEAFOOD This pleasant fish restaurant in a modern building has a bright dining room and outdoor tables.

. If you don’t like fish. Main courses: 17€–25€ ($21–$31). % 040/326-519. Ratsweinkeller Hamburg $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg HAMBURG/INTERNATIONAL In business since 1896. 176. And the outside tables are great for people-watching.–2 a. Try the halibut steak in curry sauce. Le Paquebot $$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL In warm weather. Open: Mon–Fri noon to midnight. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. Choices may include different kinds of clear or creamy fish soup.m. V. Grosse Johannisstrasse 2. herring filets on black bread with onions. V. Open: Daily 8 a.m.m. I like it because you can order something as simple as a salad but they also have good daily specials. See map p. Don’t bother with appetizers.) The menu.m. but on a nice day nab a table outside). vaulted ceilings.m. .m. V. Sat 6 p. Melange $ –$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL With tables tucked along the canal under the fancy shopping arcade that lines the Alsterfleet canal (across from the Rathaus). Main courses: 11€–15€ ($14–$18). flounder with spaghetti and lemon-butter sauce. or the Hamburg crab soup. MC. Kajen 12. depending on the catch of the day. Reservations recommended. you can sit outside on the square and enjoy a good meal at this quietly stylish restaurant and bar. and breast of chicken with basil and mushrooms. you may try the avocado salad with herring or some crostini. MC. Sun 5:30 p. AE. Or. MC. % 040/365-631. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). DC. UBahn: Jungfernstieg (then a 5-minute walk north along Neuer Wall to Schleuseenbrücke). an international mix of French. See map p. the main courses are more than enough. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 70. zander filet with creamy sauerkraut. step up to the herring buffet featuring many different condiments and sauces. 176.–6 p. See map p. For starters. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk across Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz). a mixed fish platter. changes daily. to midnight. Reservations recommended. 176.186 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The menu changes all the time. Italian and modern German. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 3-minute walk west to Kajen). AE. Main courses typically include pasta offerings such as tagliatelle with ragout. Neuer Wall 31 (in the Neuen Alsterarkaden). wood-paneled columns. this cafe/bistro/bar is a chic but casual spot to stop for lunch or an early dinner (you can eat inside.–2 a. the Ratsweinkeller Hamburg has high. or codfish with potatoes and onion. AE. Most of the young wait staff speak English.m. and large stained-glass windows. See map p. too. you can choose from other dishes such as chicken breast in a green rice crust or turkey curry. U-Bahn: Rathaus (then a 3-minute walk south on Grosse Johannisstrasse). % 040/3750-3434. 176. the fresh sole. (Indoor dining is available yearround. % 040/364-153.

No credit cards. See map p. . which becomes Friedensallee). See map p. features beautiful trees.m. scampi.m.. 176. You also find many different salad choices. reasonably priced restaurant is across from Eisenstein (see the listing earlier in this section) in the popular Altona area. The menu borrows from French. when the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa issued an edict granting free-trading privileges to Hamburg. and German cuisine. Exploring Hamburg Surprisingly enough. fixed-price menus 30€–45€ ($37–$56). Alster Lake Sailboats. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. rabbit with sweet-and-sour sauce. Voltaire also has a good wine list and live jazz on most evenings. wild duck with plum sauce. windsurfers. Damming the meandering Alster River created the lake in 1235. V. The Alster consists of the Binnenalster. with coq au vin and spaghetti with mushroom sauce available every day. and herring. one of the largest in the world. Main courses: 9€–14€ ($11–$17). % 040/397-004.–10:30 p. Italian. Voltaire Bistro $$ Altona INTERNATIONAL This pleasant. a larger body of water ringed by fine villas.Chapter 13: Hamburg. DC. Hamburg is not a city with many world-class cultural attractions. a smaller. Friedensalle 14–16. and the Aussenalster.m. Sun 11 a. and Lübeck 187 Main courses: 11€–31€ ($14–$39). Open: Daily 6 p.m. Closed holidays. and panoramic views of the Hamburg skyline. excursion ferries. Hafen (Harbor) Hamburg is probably most famous for its busy harbor. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and north on Bahrenstrasse. AE. including a windjammer parade. Meat and fish dishes typically include entrecôte (boned rib steak) with mustard sauce. Its official history dates back to 1189. which covers 175 acres on the northwest banks. fireworks. Alsterpark. Sightseeing usually centers on the giant harbor and picturesque Alster Lake. MC. and canoes ply the waters of this lake that forms the watery heart of central Hamburg.–4 p. The dining room is a high-ceilinged brick-walled room with big windows and a bistrolike atmosphere. U-Bahn: Hallerstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Hallerstrasse to the park). flower gardens. Walking paths and parkland surround the 7km (4 miles) of shoreline.m.–1 a. inner lake with canals running south to the Elbe. 176. Bremen. The city still commemorates the event every year in early May with three days of huge harborside celebrations. and hundreds of booths.m.

75) for adults. The best way to see the port and all its activity is by taking a guided harbor tour. . you find works by Meister Bertram. Am Anleger Jungfernstieg (% 040/357-4240. tours depart daily at 10:30 a. Claude Lorrain. Excursion boats operated by Rainer Abicht (% 040/3178220. and drydocks. www. ATG-AlsterTouristik. In the Alte Meister (Old Masters) galleries.50) for children.. de). there is a giant network of quays.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (the harbor is right across the street). A brochure and cassettes with a description of the tour in English are available at no additional cost. Tourist activity centers around the St. Piers 1 through 9. Saturday and Sunday only from 10:30 a. The harbor is an open tidal port. Ernst Kirchner. Dazzling works by late-19th. from November through March. The same company offers boat tours of Hamburg’s canals and along the Elbe. This former East Indies windjammer is open daily from 10 a. 176.50€ ($ 3.10) for children ages 4 to 12. Docked just east of the landing stage at Pier 1 is the Rickmer Rickmers (% 040/319-5959). a 19th-century clipper ship.m.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken. U-Bahn: St. The 19th Century galleries display an outstanding collection of German Romantic paintings.m.m. The cost for the tour is 10€ ($13) for adults and 5€ ($6. from November through March. Max Beckmann.m.25) for children younger than 16. 2. The Galerie der Gegenwart (Contemporary At Gallery) displays art created since 1960.m. April through October. in which the North Sea tides influence the water level of the Elbe River.m..alstertouristik. a long. Emil Nolde..abicht. from 10 a. and Canaletto. Tours depart from April through October daily every hour from 10 a. Just southeast of Hamburg.188 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Seeing the Alster by boat You can tour both inner (Binnen) and outer (Ausser) Alster by boat. Admission is 3€ ($ 3.m.and early-20th-century artists Edvard Munch. 6€ ($7.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken. to 4 p. and 1:30 and 3 p. Allow yourself at least two hours to see everything on leave from St. and Paul Klee are found in the Klassische Moderne (Modern Art) rooms. noon. Rubens. to 6 p.m. to 6 p. floating landing stage where you can embark on boat tours of the harbor. now a museum of maritime history. See map p. The 75-minute trip costs 10€ ($13) for adults. www. to 5:30 p. where the Elbe splits into two arms. offers daily 50-minute trips that depart about every half-hour.m. The ships leave from the Jungfernstieg quayside (U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg). including works by Philipp Otto Runge and Caspar David Friedrich.m. warehouses. Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum) Northern Germany’s leading art museum displays works in four different areas.

www. (Thurs until 9 p. Scale models show the changing face of the port.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. 176. See map p. is the largest of the old buildings in the Altstadt.50€ ($9. U-Bahn: St. across the canal. you need to bring records with you that indicate the approximate date that your ancestors left Germany.m. 176 Holstenwall 24.–3:15 p. free for children under 18. Open: Tues–Sat 10 a. The Alsterarkaden.m. Admission: Rathaus tour 1€ ($1.25) adults.m.). and reconstructed period rooms — from the hall of a 17th-century merchant’s house to an air-raid shelter from WWII — illustrate the different eras in Hamburg’s history..hamburgmuseum. Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (Hamburg History Museum) This museum provides a portrait of Hamburg from the 8th through 20th centuries. 0. Give yourself about an hour to browse through the exhibits. % 040/428-131-200. jewelry stores.. To use the service. Fri–Sun hourly 10:15 a. Bremen. You can combine a visit to the Rathaus with a stop at the 16th-century Börse (Stock Exchange).m. The museum’s office of historical emigration contains passenger lists of all the people who shipped out of Hamburg from the 1850s to about 1930. Tours (in English): Mon–Thurs hourly 10:15 a.) clock tower overlooks Rathausmarkt and the Alsterfleet. and noon. See map p. Adolphsplatz 1 (% 040/3613020). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (exit at Hauptbahnhof Nord. Guides conduct free tours of the Börse on Tuesday and Thursday at 11 a. Admission: 8. % 040/4281-32-2380.–6 p. which stands back to back with the Rathaus.50 (65¢) children.m. On record are hundreds of thousands of emigrants’ names including the names of the cities and towns in which they originated. Admission: 7. Pauli (then a 2-minute walk east across Millentordamm).de. % 040/4283-12063.m. is an arched passageway with upscale clothing shops. 176. the city’s largest canal.Chapter 13: Hamburg.m. Glockengiesserwall 1. and Lübeck 189 See map p.–5 p. Tracing your German ancestry The Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (see the listing above) is especially worth a visit if you have German ancestors and want to do genealogical research.m. 5€ ($6.–1:15 p. Rathausplatz.m.m. You can visit the interior of this Renaissance-style structure with its 647 rooms on a guided tour. U-Bahn: Rathaus. Sun 10 a. built in the late 19th century on a foundation of oak pilings.–6 p. Tours of the Rathaus and the Börse last about 30 to 45 minutes.50€ ($11) adults. The Rathaus’s 49m-tall (160-ft.25) children.m.hamburgerkunsthalle. then a 2minute walk north on An der Kunsthalle).50) adults. .de. www. and boutiques. Rathaus (Town Hall) Hamburg’s Rathaus.

U-Bahn: Hagenbeck’s Tierpark.–5 p.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken). and pets at this traditional market. James’s Church) WWII bombings almost completely destroyed the 13th-century Gothic St.190 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany St. in existence since 1703. 8. The 60-register organ at St. one of the largest in Europe.m. Michaelis (St. Jakobikirchhof 22. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. (until 4:30 p. a train ride through a fairyland. One block to the south of the church are the Krameramtswohnungen. The tower. A restaurant serves fixed-price meals for 9.m. 176. The nearby taverns are open to serve Fischmarkt visitors and vendors.m. between Hexenberg and Grosse Elbstrasse (U-Bahn: St. Besides fish.60) children. Krayenkamp 4C. Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Founded in 1848.50€ ($11) children ages 4 to 16. a master craftsman whose instruments were played by Johann Sebastian Bach. takes place every Sunday from 5 a. children younger than 3 free. contains the tomb of composer Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach.m. Admission: Church free. which have been made into art galleries. . and sculptures. 1. See map p. the rest of the year.m. a baroque organ built in 1693 by Arp Schnitger. fruit. Open: Daily Apr–Sept 9 a. St. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Jakobikirchhof). in winter). is one of the finest baroque churches in northern Germany. Open: Daily 9 a. completed in 1762. de. 176. is a famous Hamburg landmark and the principal reason to visit. The famous Hamburg Fischmarkt The Hamburg Fischmarkt (fish market). Admission: 15€ ($18) adults. you can buy flowers.hagenbeck.. Hagenbeckallee at Steilingen.–6 p.–5 p. vegetables.m. Admission: Free. to closing.. tower 2. 176. plants. Give yourself about 15 minutes to visit the church and tower.m. entrance on Steinstrasse. Jacobikirche (St. Hamburg’s zoo is home to about 2. Michael’s Church) Constructed of brick. The rebuilt church contains several medieval altars. Oct–Mar 10 a. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke (then a 10-minute walk west on Michaelisstrasse).–5 p.m.50€ ($3. and a spacious children’s playground. This zoo in the northwest suburbs offers sea-lion and dolphin shows.m.500 animals.25€ ($1.10) adults.m.50€ to 14€ ($ 12–$ 17) from 11:30 a. with its hammered-copper roof. in summer or from 7 a. www. pictures. like so many other buildings in Hamburg. Michael’s. Hamburg’s last remaining 17th-century brick-and-timber almshouses. % 040/327-744. elephant and camel rides. to noon. Jacobikirche. See map p. % 040/540-0010. See map p. St.m. % 040/3767-8100. James’s is one of only two surviving Schnitger organs in Germany. Michaeliskirchplatz. The crypt. in addition to one of Hamburg’s musical treasures. Take the elevator or climb the 449 steps to enjoy the sweeping view from the top. Sun 10 a.m.m.

Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 48. contains the largest Japanese garden in Europe.m. Dammtorstrasse 28 (% 040/35-68-68. connected transversely by Jungfernstieg and Ufer Strasse on the Binnenalster. is known for its rare plant specimens and greenhouses filled with tropical flora. A miniature railway connects all four parks. 176. miniature trees. south of Planten and Blomen. the first Sat of the month). (some until 8 p. or any kind of local specialty or handicraft. two major shopping streets fan out in a southwesterly direction toward the Rathaus: the pedestrian-only Spitalerstrasse and Mönckebergstrasse. Admission: Free. with rock gardens. to 2 p.m. Living it up after dark in Hamburg To find out what’s happening in and winding pathways. which offers better deals on merchandise markdowns. Mönckebergstrasse 3 (% 040/333-070). is part of a departmentstore chain that carries many of the same brands and items as the other leading department stores. These streets contain some of the city’s less expensive stores. Alsterhaus. one of the world’s leading opera houses. pick up a copy of the monthly Hamburger Vorschau. and an ice-skating rink in winter. Stores are generally open Monday through Friday from 9 a. is the home of the . including a rollerskating rink. Karstadt. Two of the city’s oldest and most prestigious shopping streets. The Kleine (small) and Grosse (large) Wallanlagen parks contain many recreational facilities. You can buy tickets at venue box offices. laid out in 1936. (until 4 or 6 p. Shopping in Hamburg Hamburg is a big shopping city. Landesbank-Galerie (% 040/337-124. on langer Samstag.Chapter 13: Hamburg. but don’t expect to find many bargains. carries more-fashionable merchandise. S-Bahn: Dammtor). run parallel to the canals. playgrounds. restaurants. Planten und Blomen (Plants and Flowers). Jungfernstieg 22 (% 040/359-011). U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse). Mönckebergstrasse 16 (% 040/30940). See map p. The Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden). available at tourist offices. U-Bahn: Dammtor (the station is at the southeastern corner of the park). The performing arts Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). Bremen. to 6:30 p. and newsstands. Grosse Bleichen and Neuer Wall. or through the service Theaterkasse Central. www. at tourist offices.m. flowering plants.m. Less expensive is Kaufhof. on Thursday) and on Saturday from 9 a.m. hotels. and Lübeck Wallringpark 191 Four beautifully maintained parks and gardens comprise this greenbelt area west of the Altstadt and Alster Lake.m. From the Hauptbahnhof.

192 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg State Opera and the Hamburg Ballet.m. is where The Beatles performed in their earliest days. bar. with meals ranging from 5€ to 15€ ($6. the only English-speaking theater in the northern part of Germany. is one of the hottest dance clubs in Hamburg. to 4 a.m. jazz.m. ߜ Cotton Club. dance clubs.25–$182). Alter Steinweg 10 (% 040/343-878. beer halls. especially if you’re into funk. Ticket prices vary from program to program. The hall is open daily from 7 p. The club is open from 11 p. in St. The club is open year-round Monday through Saturday from 8 p. and guest artists. free admission for women Friday and Saturday after midnight. One exception is the English Theatre of Hamburg. a dance club for 20.m. Saturday. Cover is 5€ to 25€ ($–$19).25–$11). Spielbudenplatz 5 (% 040/31-08-45. Pauli. a giant beer hall. The club. The food is okay. plays host to concerts by the Hamburg Symphony. attracting singles and couples young and old. ߜ Molotow.25–$31). Thursday. The club opens at 9 p. Today this cultural institution is a free-for-all venue with acts that change nightly. soul. nightclubs. too. Cover is 5€ to 9€ ($6. Johannes-Brahms-Platz (% 040/35-68-68. If someone catches your fancy. Tickets range from 7€ to 25€ ($8. to 3 a. The following list gives a small sampling of bars. and music scenes Hamburg is famous for its nightlife. is one of the most popular places in the St. and the NDR Symphony. Friday.m. Cover is 2€ to 14€ ($2. and to 6 a. Thursday to Sunday and has no set closing time. Cover charge is 4€ to 15€ ($5–$19). Grosse Freiheit 36 (% 040/317-7711. U-Bahn: Mundsburg).m. you can call him or her from the phone on your table. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke). ߜ Club Grosse Freiheit. and fusion. Ticket prices range from 5€ to 146€ ($6. features jazz and Dixieland bands from throughout Europe and the U. Reeperbahn 10 (% 040/314-281.m.75–$31).50–$17). The ticket office is at Grosstheaterstrasse 34. from September to April. and live-music venues: ߜ After 30-year-olds. The Musikhalle. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). it’s also open Sunday from 11 a.m. chamber orchestras. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). . to 3 p. ߜ Bayrisch Zell.m.englishtheatre. the oldest and best established of the Hamburg jazz clubs. to 5 a. www. the Hamburg Philharmonic. features funk.m. Spielbudenplatz 7 (% 040/319-3215. Wednesday and Sunday and at 11 p. depending on the band. Lerchenfeld 14 (% 040/227-7089. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). to midnight. Hamburg has dozens of theaters. but you need to understand German to enjoy the productions. Pauli district. in addition to performances by choirs. U-Bahn: Messehallen).

Pauli district. admission is 8€ ($10). Grosse Freiheit. By the mid-1800s. The district also contains the Erotic Art Museum. Pauli. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). along a half-mile thoroughfare called the Reeperbahn (pronounced ray-per-bahn.hurentours. a street whose name appropriately translates as “Great Freedom. Friday and Saturday from 10 a. called Hafen und Huren (Harbors and Whores). had become a hangout for sailors and prostitutes.. and you do find all kinds of theaters (mostly for musicals and comedies). You must reserve in advance. The name literally translates as “Rope Street” and refers to the nautical rope produced there during the 18th and 19th centuries. which is close to Hamburg’s great harbor. bars. bars. where bordellos line both sides of the street. bars. Bremen.. thousands of “working girls” strut their stuff along the Reeperbahn and through St.m. Many of the prostitutes who work there today are licensed and must submit to a medical examination every two weeks. and Lübeck 193 St. metal gates block each end of the street. cost is 20€ ($25) per person. . The district’s sexrelated bars and theaters are up and running by 8 p. cabarets.m. Open to those older than 16. just west of the center. at the corner of Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit. the museum presents its displays and changing exhibits in a way that’s both academic and titillating. like Berlin. St.m. Herbertstrasse is open only to men older than 18. or overt solicitation. Nobistor 10A (% 040/3178-4126).de) offers one of the world’s more unusual walking tours. lists the city’s many gay and lesbian clubs. Gay and lesbian clubs Hamburg. Pauli and the Reeperbahn: For adults only Commercialized sex is a major tourist attraction in Hamburg. discos. is one of the major gay centers of Europe. and cafes along Lange Reihe just northeast of the train station (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Led by a professional guide dressed as a 19th-century Hamburg prostitute (the costume is not what you’d call sexy).m. St. Municipal regulations forbid prostitution.” is known for its erotic theaters. and events.Chapter 13: Hamburg. www. inside erotic theaters.m. The place where it all hangs out is the St. The free magazine Dorn Rosa. Between midnight and 5 a. and may even be doused with a bucket of water if they enter. distributed at most gay and lesbian bars. which includes a glass of schnapps at tour’s end. Pauli is a place to visit at night. to midnight. The area is not exclusively devoted to sex. The most famous street besides the Reeperbahn itself is Herbertstrasse. Pauli’s streets. with a dense concentration of gay shops. to 2 a. the 90-minute walking tour takes you to various places around the harbor and tells the whore’s side of the story. and restaurants (although I don’’t recommend dining in this area). and the women display themselves behind plate-glass windows. restaurants. The museum is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a. who set up shop with the legal sanction of municipal authorities. Historical Whores Tours (% 01805/125-225. Please note that women are not welcome on Herbertstrasse.

194 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
A Side Trip: Bremen
Bremen, 120km (75 miles) southwest of Hamburg, has a history that dates back some 1,200 years. (See the “Bremen” map in this chapter.) Located on the Weser River, which flows to the North Sea, it already was a significant port when it was made an Episcopal see in 787. During the Middle Ages, Bremen was one of the strongest members of the Hanseatic League, and in 1646, it became a Free Imperial City. Silting of the Weser led to the establishment of Bremerhaven, Bremen’s deepwater port at the mouth of the Weser, in 1827. With a population of about half a million people, Bremen is the second-most important foreign trade location in the Federal Republic, after Hamburg. Although it’s mostly an industrial city that was badly damaged in WWII, enough remains in old Bremen to make for an intriguing daytrip from Hamburg.

Getting to Bremen
By train, the trip time from Hamburg is less than an hour. For train information and schedules, call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). If you’re driving, Bremen is a major junction on the A1 Autobahn between Hamburg and the Rhineland. Bremen Flughafen (Airport; % 0421/55-950) has flights from major cities in Germany and Europe.

Finding information and taking a tour
Bremer-Touristik-Zentrale (% 01805/10-10-30; www.bremen-tourism. de) operates tourist information offices at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station; open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat–Sun 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.). A second branch at Obernstrasse/Liebfrauenkirchhof also is open Monday to Friday 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. If you decide to stay overnight in Bremen, this office will help you find a hotel or pension. Guided bus tours, conducted in German and English, depart Tuesday through Sunday year-round at 10:30 a.m. from the Central Coach Station (Rank M) just behind the tourist information office at the main train station. The tour lasts two hours and costs 15€ ($19) for adults and 9.50€ ($12) for children younger than 13. Guided walking tours, with Englishspeaking guides, depart daily at 2 p.m. from mid-May to early October, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. in January and February, from the tourist information office at the main train station. They last two hours, and cost 6.50€ ($8), free for children younger than 13. Buy your tickets at the tourist office.

Dining in Bremen
The Ratskeller below Bremen’s Rathaus, Am Markt (% 0421/32-16-76), is a wonderfully atmospheric place to try North German regional specialties such as Bremer Festtagsuppe (a beef consommé with meatballs, noodles, and vegetables), Bremer Fischtopf (diced salmon, haddock, and red snapper in a vegetable stock), herring with sour cream and roasted

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


6 H.-B öc k

d. W es er ba hn



ler -St r. Hamburg Berlin

am Main




Dovento rs







Vo Ste r pha n

6 StephaniBrücke

G ro

s s enstr.

idt Sm


A. B rill

De ich

Pa pe n



Bü Sm rger idt me -B ist rüc er ke -








s se Gr oss eA Gr nn os en se str. Ne Jo us ha tad nn tsw iss tr. all


ar ck


s tra

W ac


We ste r-


str a

str .


Am Neuen Markt

ds lan Ro


Sc hu l

ert -S t

d r. -E b

La hn

ain s

ras s




e st r. ng en 9 V s t W ilke r. Markt- 8 Domsnst platz hof 7 r. 5 6 2 3 4 DomsDe heide . O str cha n a t s s t er ck tr. to brü e rst lg r. a B Am e k c 1 ch Wa ü r ll - -B al enk s w i eit n Ka e t l m l T ie A l he f er Wi O st erd eich 75










Sta damven-A m .



Sö g





str Ma . rt in
ch te

d i pass ag















r Bü Hu t str. filter-

rde nto r

t er eis m r ge

Am 10 Ans Wall ga n o ritorsw c he . nha all r uers tr. st

Bah nh

Ne ue
tr. ns

Re m b -e Hillmannorg rtiri t n e ng platz e d nw H er s t ei pe Schill e r s tr .


str .


potatoes, and Flammkuchen, a pizzalike dish with mushrooms, herbs, and cheese. This is also a good place to try a Probierportion (sample portion) of Labkaus, a delicious corned-beef hash mixed with pickled herring, topped with a fried egg, and served with dill pickles and beets. The adjoining restaurant, Vor dem Bacchus, serves fresh fish. Main courses go for 10€ to 22€ ($13–$27). The restaurants are open daily from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. See map above.




e Fri LeibnizPlatz 75

0 0 0.25 km

0.25 mi

na us tr.



of str .

Gra Am Wa f ll str. en-

Am Wa nd rah es m d t c a rpe g r a ben





Bre Attractions Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum/ ite Frie n dr Bleikeller 6 weg Museum in Roselins Haus 3 ich -R Rathaus 8 Böttcherstrasse 2 a er Bremen Town Musicians 9 Schnoor 1 sS Dom Museum 7r Schütting 4 t Fa lke St. Petri Dom Wallanlagen 10 n -S üre n (St. Peter’s tra v.-B Cathedral) s7 l e i ss n a e Marktplatz 5 Dining D Ratskeller 8



inste or n t eg ve w


sse tra





str as se

tr Co n t a S

e ss ra St


Bi r
r str. sc a ken ontre C

ul Fa

as str en




ns ge


ll rswallstr. Wa sterto tr. O lenst chts Am tr. r. io Bu alls rs w rb to en lko rd ss e He Schü



f ho er Te er es e W ich i n De Am

st r a s


r He

r li

Os ter . str

de er W

A. W

r rst

S t .-



e li-D Pau



f er

ic h

196 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Exploring Bremen
Bremen’s main sights are in the Altstadt, clustered around Marktplatz (Market Square), the center of Bremen life for more than a millennium. Most of the compact oval Altstadt, with the Weser River along the south side and the Stadtgraben canal on the north, is a pedestrian zone and can easily be explored on foot. Recent restoration work has brightened up the center and its many historic buildings. From Bahnhofsplatz in front of the train station, head south to Herdentor and the bridge that crosses the Stadtgraben canal. To your right, in the Wallanlagen, the pretty parkland along the canal (formerly the city wall stood here), you’ll see a large Dutch-style windmill. At one time, more than a dozen windmills operated in this area. At the beginning of Sögestrasse (Sow Street), a bronze swineherd and a herd of bronze sows and piglets commemorates the street where medieval butchers kept their pigs. A short walk south brings you to the Marktplatz, where a 15th-century sandstone statue of Knight Roland, the city’s protector, stands guard beside the Rathaus. Bremen’s impressive three-story Rathaus (Town Hall; % 0421/36-10) has been standing on the Marktplatz for 600 years and was untouched by the bombing raids of WWII. The main Gothic structure was built in 1405, but in 1612 the upper section of the facade was redone in what is known as Weser Renaissance style. (Weser Renaissance, a term applied to architecture created in and around the Weser River valley between 1520 and 1620, is characterized by ornate decoration on classically proportioned buildings.) Inside, the upper hall with its beautifully carved early-17thcentury oak staircase and mural of The Judgment of Solomon (1537), was used as council chamber and courtroom. You can visit the Rathaus on 45minute guided tours Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m., noon, 3 and 4 p.m., and on Sunday at 11 a.m. and noon. Admission is 4€ ($5) adults, 2€ ($2.50) children and students. You can dine in the historic Ratskeller beneath the building (see “Dining in Bremen,” earlier in this section). Walk around to the west end of the Rathaus to see Bremen’s most famous characters, the Bremen Town Musicians from the Grimm’s fairy tale of the same name. Local artist Gerhard Marcks created the bronze sculpture of a donkey, dog, cat, and cock in 1951.

Chocolate lovers take note
Hachez, a famous Bremen chocolatier founded in 1890, occupies a charming 18thcentury patrician house near the Rathaus. The shop, Stoevesandt-Diele, Am Markt 1 (% 0421/50-90-00), is a chocolate-lover’s emporium where you can find sweet specialties such as chocolate champagne truffles.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


Bells are ringing on Böttcher Street
Böttcherstrasse, running from Marktplatz to the Weser River, is one of the most architecturally intriguing streets in Germany and one of Bremen’s most noteworthy attractions. Ludwig Roselius, a rich Bremen merchant who invented decaffeinated coffee, paid for the construction of the redbrick buildings that line the street, which was dedicated in 1926 and rebuilt after World War II. Part of the narrow brick-paved street was built in an avant-garde German expressionist style; the other part was meant to look more traditionally medieval. The street is lined with shops, crafts workshops, restaurants, two museums, and galleries. Time your visit to hear the carillon of bells made of Meissen porcelain. Every hour between noon and 6 p.m. (Jan–Apr at noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m.), they play a tune for a full 15 minutes as a sequence of woodcarved panels in a revolving tower tells the story of transatlantic aviators.

Directly opposite the Rathaus stands the Schütting, a 16th-century guild hall today used by the chamber of commerce (not open to the public). Adding a modern architectural touch to the ancient square is the Haus der Bürgerschaft, constructed in 1966 and home of Bremen’s Parliament. Free 20-minute tours of the building are given Monday to Friday at 2 p.m. At the southeast end of the Marktplatz, towering majestically over the entire Altstadt, is St. Petri-Dom (St. Peter’s Cathedral), Sandstrasse 10–12 (% 0421/36-50-40), originally constructed in 1043 as the archbishop’s church and rebuilt in the 16th and 19th centuries. Other than the 12thcentury bronze baptismal font in one of the Romanesque crypts there is not much of exceptional interest within the cathedral, which is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday 2 to 5 p.m. From Easter through October you can climb to the top of the cathedral towers for a panoramic view of the Altstadt. The Dom Museum (Cathedral Museum; % 0421/365-04-41) displays artifacts discovered during a restoration of the cathedral in the early 1970s, including vestments found in archbishops’ graves and 15th-century wall paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder. More interesting than the museum is the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), reached by going outside and around to the side of the cathedral. It contains a bizarre collection of mummified corpses — 16th- and 17th-century lords, ladies, students, and soldiers, plus a cat and a monkey — whose leathery bodies were found in graves beneath and around the cathedral. Admission for the cathedral museum and the Lead Cellar is 1.50€ ($2) for adults, 1€ ($1.25) for students and children; both are open the same hours as the cathedral, but the Lead Cellar is closed November to Easter. The Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum, Böttcherstrasse 6–10 (% 0421/ 336-5077), is dedicated to Bremen’s outstanding painter (1876–1907) and contains many of her best works, including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

198 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Admission is 5€ ($6.25) for adults and 3€ ($3.75) for children. With the same ticket, you can visit the nearby Museum im Roselius Haus (same address, phone, and hours), a 16th-century merchant’s home filled with Ludwig Roselius’s collection of medieval art and furniture. Böttcherstrasse leads to the Schlachte embankment along the Weser River. The riverside promenade is lined with taverns and restaurants and is the locale of the Weserflohmarkt (Weser Flea Market), open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Schlachte embankment also is where you find guided boat trips (in German only) around the harbor. Boats depart from the landing in front of the Martinikirche (St. Martin’s Church) every day from April through October at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. on a voyage that lasts about 75 minutes. The cost is 8.50€ ($11) for adults and 4.50€ ($5.50) for children. A five-minute walk southeast from the Schlachte brings you to the charming albeit touristy Schnoor district, Bremen’s oldest surviving quarter. The 16th- and 17th-century cottages in the Schnoor once were the homes of simple fishermen. In an effort to revive old arts and crafts, they’re now rented to artists and artisans. Sightseers visit not only for the atmosphere but also for the unusual restaurants, shops, and art galleries.

Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own
Seven Gothic church spires rise above the picturesque town of Lübeck, located 66km (41 miles) northeast of Hamburg in the state of SchleswigHolstein. (See the “Lübeck” map in this chapter.) Along the ancient streets of its Altstadt, you find more buildings from the 13th to the 15th centuries than in any other city in northern Germany. Most of the buildings, including the churches, are fine examples of the redbrick architecture so characteristic of northern Germany. The city’s architectural heritage is so rich that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) placed Lübeck on its World Heritage list of international monuments. UNESCO bestows World Heritage status to places judged to have exceptional cultural and historic value. From the 13th century on, Lübeck was capital of the Hanseatic League, the powerful association of merchants that controlled trade along the Baltic as far as Russia. The town still retains the name Hansestadt Lübeck. Lübeck makes a rewarding daytrip from Hamburg, less than an hour away by train, but its charms may beguile you to stay overnight. With its enormous churches, high-gabled houses, massive gates, and historic buildings at every turn, Lübeck is a delightful city to explore.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


Hafe n str.

Fri e




Al lee str ass e


wa rta ue r ne n-

Ma brü






Kle Burgine str.



Dreh asse str br ien


Ka th


Stra s se

rgrub 19 e


n Stadtgrabe

Parade Pferdemarkt

se as str se se as n str Ha en d Lin



Holstentorbrücke HolstentorLindenplatz 1 platz Holstentor Puppenbrücke 2

A ll e e

Köni gstr asse



Tr a v e



i s li n

Tö pf erw

ss e


lst ra s


M us







Stadion Buniamshof


l ls



l - MühlentorRa

Tr a

W al



t er





tz All ebur ee ge r
0.25 mi

ACCOMMODATIONS Klassik Altstadt Hotel 19 Radisson SAS Senator Hotel Lübeck 16 DINING Café Niederegger 15 Historischer Weinkeller 20 Ristorante Roberto Rossi im Schabbelhaus 17 Schiffergesellschaft 18

ATTRACTIONS 0 Buddenbrookhaus 5 Dom 12 Füchtingshof 8 Glandorps-Gang/ Glandorps-Hof 10 Günther Grass House 9 Heiligen-Geist-Hospital 11 Marienkirche 4 Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus 6 Museum Holstentor 1 Rathaus 3 Salzspeicher 2 St.-Annen-Museum 13 Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck 7

0.25 km

Church Information Post Office Railway

Hü xte rto ral l


9 10 Gl o c keng ies s e rstr. strass Hund 5 e estrass e Dr.-J ulius 4 -Leb er-S tras Fleis se Markt- 3 chha i uers Holstenstr. platz trass Ko e H h ü l ma - 15 xst ras rkt 14 se Wa hm stra Hüxterdamm sse Aegidienstr Krä asse hen e b ru g s tr. Rehd es Marl r. erSt brück ne er ne ube r g s t r n u a Dankw .-A 13 Ma St r de Hartengrube An Domk r av e i e äh 7






An der Unter









K a n al -


Lübeck Hamburg Berlin G E R M ANY Frankfurt Munich

h Klug


m a ue




20 11





r de An Fische

ve t ra t er Un Eng elsg rub e

Gro sse B urgst r.


l al



a ns


GustavRadbruch- Roeckstra sse Platz Burgtorbrücke


e af




sse tra ns lke

G G r ro s s e ö p elg ru b e

enitzak W

Fa ck en bu rg er Al lee
Lac hsw ehr alle e



de r






rt O be e lstrass Posseh Wallraben brücke S t a d t g

f ho rch


le üh nd am

Mü hlen torbrü cke


200 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Lübeck’s Nobel sons
Lübeck has had several famous sons, notably Thomas Mann and Willy Brandt. As a young man, Brandt (1913–1992), who later became West German chancellor and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971, opposed the Nazis so vehemently that he had to flee on a boat to Norway. The Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck at 21 Königstrasse is in the process of being restored and is expected to open in 2007. The writer Thomas Mann (1875– 1955) used his hometown of Lübeck as the setting for his novel Buddenbrooks, which catapulted the 27-year-old author to international fame in 1902. In 1929, Mann won the Nobel Prize for literature. The Buddenbrookhaus (described in “Walking through Lübeck,” in this chapter), which belonged to Mann’s grandparents, is a place of literary pilgrimage for fans of Mann. Günter Grass, author of The Tin Drum, won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1999. Although he was not born in Lübeck, he lives nearby. The relationship between Grass’s literary output and his artwork is explored in the permanent exhibits at the Günther Grass House, Glockengiesserstrasse 21 (% 0451/1224231;, which opened in 2002. Here you can see some of Grass’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures. Grass unleashed a torrent of criticism in 2006 when he revealed, in advance of the publication of his autobiography, that he had served in the Nazi Waffen SS at age 17; some critics suggested the Nobel Prize committee should revoke Grass’s prize. The museum is open daily April through October from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., November through March 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults, 2.20€ ($2.75) students and children.

Getting there
By train, you can reach Lübeck from anywhere in Germany or Europe. Dozens of trains arrive daily from Hamburg, only 40 minutes away. For train schedules and information, call German Rail (% 11861) or visit their Web site ( By boat, you can take a passenger or car ferry service between Denmark (the port of Rødbyhaven) and Lübeck (the port of Puttgarden). ScandLines (% 04371/865-161; offers daily departures. TT Saga Line (% 04502/80181; operates between the German port of Travemünde and the Swedish port of Trelleborg. By car, you can reach Lübeck via the A1 Autobahn north and south.

Finding information and taking a walking tour
In the train station, Touristinformation Hauptbahnhof (% 0451/864675) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m. The Lübeck und Travemünde Tourist Service Welcome Center, Holstentorplatz 1 (% 01805/882-233; 0.12€/15¢ per minute;, across from the Holstentor Museum, is open January through May and October through November, Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


3 p.m.; June through September and December, hours are Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. This office can help you with hotel reservations. Two-hour walking tours (6€/$7.50) of the historic city depart from the Holstentor tourist office Monday through Saturday at 2 p.m. (additional walks at 11 a.m. July–Sept) and on Sundays year-round at 11 a.m.

Orienting yourself
The Trave and Wakenitz rivers and other waterways encircle Lübeck’s Altstadt, an oval-shaped island a little more than a mile long and less than a mile wide. Eight bridges connect the old town with greater Lübeck on the mainland. Only about 12,000 residents (out of about 225,000) live on the island, which is where all the major attractions are located.

Getting around Lübeck
The Altstadt and all the major attractions can be reached on foot from the train station. You also can take buses 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, or 16 from the train station into the Altstadt. The fare is 2€ ($2.50). A fun and relaxing way to see Lübeck is by water. Excursion boats operated by MAAK-Linie (% 0451/706-3859; leave from docks on the Trave River just north of the Holstentor. In summer, departures are hourly between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (11 a.m.–4 p.m. the rest of the year). The trip (commentary in German with English text available) lasts one hour and encircles the entire Altstadt. Cost is 7€ ($8.75) for adults, 5.50€ ($7) for seniors, and 3€ ($3.75) for children.

Staying in Lübeck
Lübeck offers a full range of hotel options, from small inns and pensions to modern facilities. To enjoy the ancient, atmospheric charms of Lübeck, I recommend that you choose a hotel in the Altstadt. The Lübeck and Travemünde Tourist Service (see “Finding information and taking a walking tour” earlier in this chapter) also can help you find a room.

Special events in Lübeck
The Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival, one of the best music festivals in Germany, occurs in Lübeck (which has a famed music school) with performances from early July until the end of August every year. For more information, call % 0800/7463-2002 or log on to A popular Christmas market featuring handmade wares from all across northwestern Germany takes place during the three weeks preceding Christmas.

202 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Klassik Altstadt Hotel
$ –$$ Altstadt
If you want to stay in a smaller, older hotel in the Altstadt, Klassik Altstadt Hotel is a good choice. The 28 individually decorated rooms, all named for famous Lübeckers, have a pleasant, traditional style. Most of the bathrooms have showers; a few have tubs. The on-site restaurant is good and moderately priced. See map p. 199. Fischergrube 52, 23552 Lübeck. % 0451/702980. Fax: 0451/73778. Rates: 77€–130€ ($96–$162) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

Radisson SAS Senator Hotel Lübeck
$$$ Altstadt
If you want a modern, full-service hotel, the Radisson is the best place to stay. A pedestrian bridge connects the hotel from its riverside location to the Altstadt. The 231 medium-sized rooms are attractively furnished. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Amenities include an on-site health club with pool, sauna, and steam rooms, and a computer in the lobby that enables you to check your e-mail. Children up to age 12 stay for free in their parents’ room. See map p. 199. Willy-Brandt-Allee 6, 23554 Lübeck. % 800/333-3333 in the U.S. or 0451/1420. Fax: 0451/142-2222. Rates: 160€ ($200). AE, MC, V.

Dining in Lübeck
As you may have guessed, fresh seafood from the North and Baltic seas is featured on the menus of many restaurants in Lübeck. In this section are a few good restaurants where you can dine well in historic surroundings.

Historischer Weinkeller
$$ –$$$ Altstadt
The Historischer Weinkeller, located beneath the 13th-century HeiligenGeist-Hospital (see the “Walking through Lübeck” section next), is an excellent and atmospheric restaurant with an international menu. You can choose from several different fixed-priced menus, including a summertime “lübsche Gasterei” (Lübeck hospitality), a seven-course medieval feast. You may begin with smoked Norwegian salmon, gooseliver pâté, or a fishbased soup. Entrees range from filet of cod with sauerkraut and poached haddock in a mustard sauce to meat dishes and vegetarian choices. Note: This restaurant is divided into two sections, the Kartoffelkeller (potato cellar) and the Weinkeller (wine cellar); of the two, the Weinkeller is the more pleasant place to dine. See map p. 199. Koberg 8. % 0451/76234. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($18–$25). Fixedprice menu 25€–40€ ($31–$50). AE, MC, V. Open: Daily noon to midnight.

m. Lübeckers ran out of flour during a long siege and started grinding almonds to make bread. decorated with wooden ship models hanging from the ceiling. See map p. Main courses: 15€–23€ ($18–$29). The service is attentive.-mile) area around the . 199. Open: Daily 10 a. if available.m. The fish here is excellent and recommended. order “herring three ways” on black bread. % 0451/72011. To sample Lübeck’s famous Marzipan. Mengstrasse 48–52. stop in at Cafe Niederegger. and the tasting menus are good value for money. fixed-price menus lunch 18€–22€ ($22–$27). you sit at wooden tables lit by candlelight. As a starter. Walking through Lübeck Concentrate your sightseeing in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt. They were so pleased with the sweet results that they’ve been making Marzipan ever since. Schabbelhaus serves good Italian cuisine and some classic North German dishes. The atmospheric dining room overlooks a small garden. this historic restaurant is a good place to enjoy regional specialties. % 0451/76776. You also can get pasta dishes such as tagliatelle with fresh mushrooms or with salmon and lemon. or you can go upstairs to the pleasant cafe for dessert and coffee. dinner 39€–57€ ($49–$71). 199. MC. AE. In the front dining room. and 6–11 p. About one-fifth of the Altstadt was destroyed in a 1942 bombing. and Lübeck 203 The sweet side of Lübeck Lübeck is the world capital of Marzipan.-km (2-sq. surrounded by the Trave River and its canals.000 medieval buildings still stand within a 5-sq. the wine list is excellent. Then I’d recommend the fish plate. Ristorante Roberto Rossi im Schabbelhaus $$ –$$$ Altstadt Occupying two elegant town houses on a lovely medieval street. Main courses: 8€–25€ ($10– $31). Try the crab soup. Breitestrasse 98 (% 0451/53010). MC.m. all delicious. On the ground floor. Schiffergesellschaft $$ –$$$ Altstadt A popular spot for tourists and locals alike. See map p. Reservations recommended. which comes with three different kinds of fish. An English-language menu is available to help guide your choices. to midnight. AE. Bremen. there’s a lighter. Breite Strasse 2. to 6 p. V. a sweet almond paste.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Niederegger’s is open daily from 9 a. more modern dining room behind it. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. especially fish. located right across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806.m. V. and the staff is friendly and professional. According to legend. followed by fresh fish from the Baltic Sea.m. but approximately 1. you can purchase bars and boxes of Marzipan to take away (an excellent gift idea).

m. 3.. the cost is 3€ ($3. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. once the main town entrance. the newest from 1745. and guild halls. Black glazedbrick courses (horizontal lines) and round panels emblazoned with coats of arms adorn the redbrick walls. across the street from the Holstentor.50€ ($2) for children and students. 2. The present building. fruit.m. Merchants stored salt (considered “white gold”) from nearby Lüneburg in these buildings before shipping it to Scandinavia. 1. The building sits on brick arcades that allow easy access to the main entrance on Breite Strasse.. or single-sail vessels). Saturday and Sunday 11 a. shops. a group of six gabled Renaissance buildings. and vegetable stalls every Monday and Thursday. You can see the interior on a guided tour (in German) Monday through Friday at noon and 3 p. topped by slender turrets. In December. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults.m. Builders used brick as the predominant material for houses. The Rathaus stands on the north and east sides of the Marktplatz. The Marienkirche served as a model for many . a local history museum housed within the gate and contains a model of Lübeck as the town appeared in the mid 17th century. Just south. one of the oldest and most beautiful city halls in Germany. The Rathaus was rebuilt several times since the first foundation stone was laid in 1230. to 6 p.25) for students and children under 18. From the train station. Continuing a few blocks east on Holstenstrasse.m. directly in front of you is the 15thcentury Holstentor (Holsten Gate). Here you’ll find the new tourist Welcome Center and the newly revamped Museum Holstentor (% 0451/122-4129). After you enter the Altstadt. to 6 p. What follows are the stops on a walking tour of the Altstadt that begins at the Hauptbahnhof (train station). the Markt is the site of Lübeck’s famous Christmas Market. a large square filled with meat. Mary’s Church). Rathausplatz (% 0451/122-1005). the twin-towered Marienkirche (St. churches. models of Hanseatic Kogge (cogs. The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures. takes about four to five hours.75) for adults and 1. the oldest dates from 1579. Schüsselbuden 13 (% 0451/397-700). You can see everything in less than 30 minutes. you reach Lübeck’s Rathaus. 1€ ($1. The entire walk. is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. 4.m.204 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Marktplatz. cross the Puppenbrücke (Dolls’ Bridge) and head east into the Altstadt. The bridge got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its stone railings. Towering above the Markt and the Rathaus is one of northern Germany’s most outstanding examples of the brick Gothic style. where the salt was used to preserve fish. stand the Salzspeicher (Salt Lofts). and medieval torture instruments. with stops at museums.

is in the process of being restored and will become the Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck. from birth to death.m. at Glockengiesser 21. and Ernst Barlach. the rest of the year from 11 a. a few blocks north of the Rathaus. and documents chronicling Mann’s life. The museum.m.25) for students and children 6 to 18. An outstanding collection of German Romantic and German Impressionist paintings is on view at Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. and has exhibits relating to the city’s cultural life in the 18th and 19th centuries. Königstrasse 9–11 (% 0451/122-4148).. solid. formed from two 18th-century town houses. This big. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. Heinrich Mann (1871–1950). Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. Its central nave. whose works include Death in Venice.Chapter 13: Hamburg. The house is open daily April through October from 10 a. just north of the Marienkirche. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter for more information. Dietrich Buxtehude (1637–1707). 9. an almshouse built in the 17th century for the widows of seamen and merchants. to 5 p. www.. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. just to the south of the Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. for information. carrying on a tradition established by St.m. former West German chancellor and Nobel Peace Prize winner. plan to spend at least half an hour at Buddenbrookhaus. . and Lübeck 205 other churches built in the Baltic region. Mary’s best-known organist and composer. 7. was the author of Professor Unrat. has the highest brick vaulting in the world.m. letters.m. stone-and-stucco house with a gabled roof belonged to Mann’s grandparents and was the model for the family home Mann wrote about in Buddenbrooks. to 6 p. and that of his family. If you’re a fan of the great German writer Thomas the tower bells crashed down into the church and embedded themselves in the stone floor. 36m (120 ft. to 6 p. the source of the movie The Blue Angel. left as a reminder and warning of the horrors of war. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter. Next door. 8. 5.m.m. On the second floor are period rooms and artifacts. Step through the ornamented baroque portal (open 9 a. Inside. During a WWII bombing attack. admission is 7€ ($9) for adults. Organ concerts take place during the summer and fall. At Glockengiesserstrasse 25. The Magic Mountain. you find the Günther Grass Haus museum. to noon and 3–6 p.60€ ($6) for students. 1€ ($1.m.. is the Füchtingshof. Mengstrasse 4 (% 0451/122-4192. At Königstrasse 21.buddenbrookhaus. Bremen.) and you enter a tranquil courtyard with houses still occupied by widows.m. you find a comprehensive collection of photographs. the childhood home of Willi Brandt. 4. and Buddenbrooks. to 5 p. They still are there. also displays major 20th-century artists such as Leon Kirchner. Max Beckmann. Mann’s brother. 6.m.) high.

and the Glandorps-Hof. Admission is 2. Housed in a 16th-century Augustinian convent that was later used as an almshouse and a prison. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. 11. In the early 19th century. at nos. to 6 p. to 6 p. Mühlendamm 2–6 (% 0451/74704).”) 10. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. you’ll sometimes see medieval redbrick buildings decorated with black glazed bricks. This building. 12.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.-Annen-Museum. 13.25) for students and children 6 to 18. the museum has a noteworthy collection of medieval and Renaissance altarpieces. Construction on this massive edifice began in 1173. 41.m. when the building was converted to a shelter for elderly men and women. From March through September.206 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany White gold and black bricks In Lübeck and in other cities in northern Germany. The church was destroyed in WWII and later rebuilt. St. Except for its size.m. 49–51. the church itself isn’t that interesting. at no. dating from 1612 and built for the widows of merchants and craftsmen.50€ ($3) for adults.m. including a work by Hans Memling.m. The cabins remain intact. 1€ ($1.m. you find Lübeck’s Dom. The building is open daily from 10 a. to 6 p. To round off your tour of Lübeck. 14.m. A short distance to the north stands the Heiligen-Geist-Hospital (Hospital of the Holy Spirit). to 7 p.m. (Salt was considered “white gold.). On the south side of town. 1€ ($1. You can see everything in about half an hour. Philanthropic local citizens founded the hospital in 1230. are the city’s oldest almshouses. The Glandorps-Gang.25) for students and children. The black glaze comes from salt being sprinkled on the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder. and one of the most important monumental buildings of the Middle Ages..-Annen-Strasse 15 (% 0451/122-4137). and take the elevator up to the top of its tower for a memorable view of Lübeck and its port. open Tues–Sun 10 a.m.–5 p. Peter’s Church). the church is open daily from 9 a. head over to the 750-year-old Petrikirche (St. is one of the oldest social-welfare institutions in Europe. . Schmiedestrasse (% 0451/397330). Am Koburg (% 0451/122-2040). Two blocks northeast of the Dom.m. and you can poke your head inside them (no admission charge. 130 tiny wooden cabins without ceilings were built within its enormous main hall. you find the St. with its belfry and four turreted spires.

and musical heritage. Perhaps the most important celebratory event was the reopening of the famous domed Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). S Dresden: Florence on the Elbe Dresden. Dresden became the most important city in Saxony when the ruling Wettin . and Weimar: Jewels of the East In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Dresden and its famous museums ᮣ Discovering old and new Leipzig ᮣ Enjoying the beautiful town of Weimar ᮣ Remembering the past at Buchenwald axony and Thuringia (Thüringen in German) are side-by-side Länder (states) in eastern Germany that are well worth visiting. (See the “Saxony and Thuringia” map in this chapter. is the cultural jewel in Thuringia’s crown. celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006. In Saxony. the mighty Elbe River flows through an area near Dresden known as Saxon Switzerland. historic buildings. associated with Goethe (Germany’s greatest writer. are the largest cities in Saxony. author of Faust) and the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. winding roads lead through spruce-covered hills to unspoiled villages that waft you back to the Middle Ages. Thuringia is considered the “green heart” of Germany because the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) covers much of its southern portion. located 198km (123 miles) south of Berlin and 111km (69 miles) southeast of Leipzig. The Frauenkirche is a symbol of what Dresden once was — a city known as “Florence on the Elbe. Narrow.” and renowned for its architecture and art treasures — and hopes to become again.Chapter 14 Dresden. Both states are rich in sightseeing possibilities. destroyed in the bombings of World War II (WWII). with their outstanding museums. Weimar. famed for its river scenery.) The cities of Dresden and Leipzig. Leipzig.

the station on the north side of the river. 1945. is the most ambitious reconstruction effort in the entire country and marks an important stage in Dresden’s recovery.208 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Dynasty decided to make the city its capital in the late 15th century. This major city has an airport. You can buy your ticket at the S-Bahn window in the underground station beneath the new terminal. The reconstruction of the Frauenkirche. Historic buildings have since been rebuilt. lies 9km (51⁄2 miles) north of the city center. Dresden has two main rail stations. and a good road at Schlesischer Park. is used more for regional trains. the beautiful old core of the city. although some trains. By plane Flughafen Dresden (% 0351/881-3360. within walking distance of Altstadt (Old Town). More than a dozen trains make the daily trip from Berlin (2–21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (41⁄2 hours).dresden-airport. Getting there Getting to Dresden is easy. or visit their Web site www. the city airport. the preeminent personality in the town’s history. including the Airport S-Bahn. Many visitors come just to visit the museums in the Zwinger Palace and to see the treasures of the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). Lufthansa and other international carriers provide regularly scheduled service between Dresden and cities throughout Germany and Europe. Then came the night of February 13. Around it you find nearly all of Dresden’s major attractions.70€ ($2).bahn. Dresden-Neustadt. which runs from the airport to the two main train stations. By train Getting to Dresden by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe is easy. The easiest and least expensive way to get into the city center is by the Flughafen S-Bahn (airport train). call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861. After reunification. but the work has taken decades. The trip takes about 20 minutes and costs 1. frequent train service. All long-distance trains pull into the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Dresden flourished as one of the great cultural centers of Europe. www. using original plans and even some of the original stone (bombed pieces of which were found in the Elbe). in the reopened portion of the Residenzschloss (palace). A taxi from the airport to the center of Dresden costs about 16€ ($20). when Allied firebombs destroyed three-quarters of Dresden’s . on Wiener Platz on the south side of the Elbe. stop at both stations. Dresden emerged as the top contender for tourists in the former East Germany. For rail information and schedules. Under the rule of Elector Augustus the Strong.

Chapter 14: Dresden. Leipzig. and Weimar 209 Saxony and Thuringia 0 0 20 km 20 mi N 103 Airport E251 E28 POLAND E26 E55 167 A11 Eberswalde d e r O AN Y Berlin SAXONYANHALT 107 102 5 273 A10 E55 GERM THURINGIA Brandenburg Potsdam E51 A115 Berlin E55 A12 E30 189 Area of Detail E30 2 A13 87 Magdeburg El 81 71 A9 E51 102 Lübben Lübbenau bbenau be R iv Wittenberg er 187 Dessau E55 A13 2 87 101 97 6 91 Quedlinburg Eisleben 6 80 Halle Leipzig A14 Meissen Dresden 173 4 93 88 A4 E40 Buchenwald 7 Erfurt To Eisenach Dornburg Weimar Jena A4 E40 2 Altenburg E55 Chemnitz 174 E441 Arnstadt Th ür in ge Plauen E442 r E49 4 W al d E51 Hof E49 E48 Karlovy Vary 6 Coburg 279 C Z E C H 27 R E P U B L I C A70 E48 21 E49 Bayreuth A93 22 Bamberg A73 To Nuremberg Plzen E50 E50 .

and ferries in Dresden and admission to all the top museums.dvbag.m. Dresdner Verkehrsbetriebe (DVB. Prager Strasse (% 0351/491-920. to 4 p. its main streets.m. near the main train station. including those in the Zwinger and the Albertinum. I recommend that you park on the outskirts and travel to the city center by bus or tram. The same services are available at the Information Center located in the Schinkelwache (Old City Guard House). Finding information At the Information Center. and the Semper Opera House. Pretty 19th-century houses reconstructed to hold shops. including art museums. The highways run along the west side of the city. the newly restored Frauenkirche. city tours. Saturday 10 a. and cafes. On the south side. you find all the major cultural attractions. www. and Wilder Mann) lead into the center. and Sunday (Schinkelwache only) 10 a. On the north side of the river is Dresden-Neustadt. or concert tickets. and boat tours in the Dresden area. The cost is 19€ ($24).m. to 6 p. Prager Strasse. dresden-tourist. and restaurants line Hauptstrasse and Königstrasse. You can buy the Dresden Card at the tourist information centers. you can book a hotel room and purchase a map of Dresden and information booklets in English. Orienting yourself The Elbe River divides Dresden more or less in half. You also get reduced prices for other a wide pedestrian street lined with shops. buses.m. at Theaterplatz Square. Neustadt. www. hotels.210 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany By car The A13 Autobahn connects Dresden to Berlin.. Hellerau. but the major lines continue to operate every hour. apartments. Trying to find a parking spot in the center of Dresden isn’t easy.m. Getting around Dresden If you plan to visit only the historic center of Dresden. to 4 p. The A4 comes in from Leipzig and Bavaria (eventually the A4 will connect Dresden to Prague). boutiques. churches in the Altmarkt (Old Market) and Neumarkt (New Market) squares. maintains an extensive system of bus and tram lines within the city and far out into the suburbs. You also can buy theater. and restaurants. you can easily get around on foot. The city’s transport authority.m. Germany’s reunification triggered a real estate and reconstruction boom in this picturesque neighborhood of art galleries. Four exits (Altstadt.. the Zwinger Palace museums. Service is limited after midnight. The Dresden Card is good for 48 hours on all trams. between the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) and the river. The hours for both are Monday through Friday 10 a. % 0351/857-1011. is the main thoroughfare (and site of the main tourist information office). .

and Weimar ra ATTRACTIONS Albertinum 17 Frauenkirche 16 Grünes Gewolbe 10 Katholische Hofkirche 11 Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst 18 Standseilbahn 20 Zwinger 7 Church Information Railway Hauptbahnhof Dresden au e ch ss tti e Lu rass nga e st d Lin B 211 Munich lüh e Wiener Platz Le nn e am Main rst Frankfurt i str iese erw Bürgkstrasse Par sse as se GERMANY Dresden i .M de rg 0 0.25 km ag se bu ienMar cke brü ra Ter ss e Albertstrasse sse e ss H au p chs tra tst Frie dri St ra ras er 0 2 sse nig Kö rasse 1 st N ra nuf st rit z 4 3 rd Wiga 18 Carolaplatz sb Köbisplatz se 22 21 20 Sachsenplatz Elb e stras er e s r tra aufe ts Ostr vrien e D ss ei e 5 se Ost W ss ert Alb ücke br zs er it nn Ko ustu ing Aug ei ert Carolsbrüc ch rück e ACCOMMODATIONS Art'otel 5 Hilton Dresden 13 Hotel Bülow Residenz 1 Hotel Martha Hospiz 2 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe 18 Westin Bellevue 3 tra raalle Elbe Ter rass enu fer Fr.P Zin ze Berlin tras bu Hamburg Gün be lal lee Sternplatz ALTSTADT sse Lingnerplatz Blüherpark Bl herpark Grosser Garten tzst e DINING Ayers Rock 14 Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen 22 Café Schinkelwache 8 Café zur Frauenkirche 15 Fischgalerie 4 Freiberger Schankhaus 19 Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) 6 Luisenhof 21 Rossini 12 Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais 9 ke Ros tr en s sse rS tra rass ae onst as se Webergasse Pirnaischer Platz G r un e Amm r n st nstra e Sac hsa Zw Am Zwinger Pond i 11 12 13 14 Theater6 platz Rathenauplatz Dürerstrasse Pilln itzer llee ass e Stra sse rass e . Leipzig.-HeckertPlatz Sc h we ras se Marie Freib erge r Str asse Postplatz 9 Wilsd ru Schloß E hst hrlic rasse 10 15 17 16 18 19 ffer S trasse strass rine r St 7 8 e An ne ss St ra tra Georgplatz sse -Ring Dr.-Külz sse ausstra h n e Wais se er rfs Stü rg nd o er S et er s St Prag Chapter 14: Dresden.25 mi 0.

50).. Buy your tickets at a tourist information center.50€ ($5. You can hop on or off the bus at any of 22 points along the way.. Double rooms have bathrooms with stainless-steel sinks and a shower. Validate your ticket (by stamping the ticket in a machine) upon entering the bus or tram. An English-speaking guide accompanies the 1 and 3 p. A one-day Tageskarte (day pass) costs 4.m. you only need a one-zone ticket.m.. and so has the demand for rooms. to 3 p. Purchase your tickets and a transportation map from the vending machines (marked “Fahrkarten”) outside the train stations.m. unless you’re visiting the outskirts of Dresden. 5.212 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The city is divided into fare zones.m.m.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a. If you want to stay here.m. Buses leave every half-hour from 10 3 p. book your room ahead of time. This tour departs from Postplatz daily at 11 a.m. www. The price is 18€ ($22) for adults. are the “artiest” of any hotel in Dresden. a guided (audio headsets for English translations) bus tour that leaves from Schlossplatz.m.70€ ($2) for a one-hour ride anywhere in Zone 1.stadtrundfahrt. to 7 p. 1 p.m. tours from Thursday through Sunday. good for two adults and up to four children in one zone. Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt (% 0351/866-090) offers daily 90-minute boat trips along the Elbe from May into October at 11 a. including the lovely Loschwitz neighborhood. see Chapter 22. A Familientageskarte (family day ticket). The 174 goodsized bedrooms are stylish and comfortably chic without being pretentious. costs 5.m. Buy your tickets at the kiosk on the offers a one-hour Historical City Tour (Historischer Stadtrundgang). and costs 10€ ($13). A single ticket for the bus or tram costs 1. For a description of the beautiful new Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe. Art’otel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt The six floors of this dramatic postmodern hotel..m. You find a small gym and sauna on the premises. Staying in Dresden Since reunification and the amazing increase in tourism. offers a daily 90-minute Super Dresden Tour (Grosse Stadtrundfahrt). free for children 14 and younger. a walk through the city’s historic center. . and 3:30 p. or at DVB service centers inside the Hauptbahnhof or at Postplatz. adjacent to the Augustusbrücke (Augustus Bridge) and covers both sides of the Elbe. The cost is 11€ ($14) for adults.50€ ($7). located a bit out of the center of the Altstadt. Dresden’s hotel prices have soared. www.dvbag. both are open Monday through Friday from 7 a.50€ ($7) for children. to 6 p. The paddle-wheel steamers depart from the Terrassenufer quay below the Brühlsche Terrasse (embankment) along the south bank of the river and travel upstream to Loschwitz and back again. Seeing Dresden by guided tour Stadtrundfahrt Dresden (% 0351/899-5650. and 5 p. DVB (% 0351/8571011.

. Rates: 160€–215€ ($200–$269) double. Fax: 0351/800-3100. Fax: 0351/864-2725. and Canada. or 0351/86420. MC. www. and many of the rooms have lovely river and Altstadt views. Fax: 0351/817-6222. MC. http://marthahospiz. The large marble-tiled bathrooms have shower-tub combinations.hilton. Michelin-starred Caroussel Restaurant serves fresh French cuisine with a Mediterranean influence (main courses 25€–35€/ $ 31–$ 44). 211. Each of the 30 spacious rooms is laid out differently and furnished with modern designer and reproduction Biedermeier pieces. Hotel Bülow Residenz $$$$ Neustadt One of the finest restorations in Neustadt. Leipzig. Bathrooms. The hotel’s elegant. Hotel Martha Hospiz $$ Neustadt Managed by the Association of Christian Hoteliers (VCH). You find a pool. V. Ostra-Allee 33. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. MC. % 0351/81760. Nieritzstrasse 11. % 800-445-8667 in the U. MC. DC. expensive. V. 211. fitness club. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. % 0351/49220. V. Rates include buffet breakfast. See map p. An der Frauenkirche 5. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE. Rates: 250€ ($312) double. Fax: 0351/492-2777.buelow-residenz. are on the small side. 01097 Dresden. 211. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24).com. www. Westin Bellevue $$$$ Neustadt The 339-room Westin Bellevue is located near the most attractive part of the Elbe River. and Weimar 213 See map p.Chapter 14: Dresden. 01067 Dresden. See map p. Rooms are midsize and somewhat short on style but Rates: 130€ ($162) double. this simple but comfortable four-story hotel is a 15-minute walk from the heart of Dresden’s Altstadt. % 0351/80030. 211. this luxury boutique hotel is housed in a building that dates from 1730. each with a shower. The staff is unusually friendly and helpful. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. 01097 Dresden. DC. modern décor and are well-maintained. V.artotel. www. AE. Baby-sitting can be arranged. and sauna on the premises. Hilton Dresden $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This 333-room hotel across from the Frauenkirche is one of the best (and largest) in eastern Germany. See map p. 01067 Dresden. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. Rates: 140€–250€ ($175–$312) double. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). on the north bank of the Elbe River.S. AE. Rähnitzgasse 19. The 50 rooms have a simple. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz.

A green. For a sample of the city’s culinary offerings. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting.214 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The rooms are large. 211. As the night wears on. and comfortable.50€–17€ ($11–$21). Ayers Rock $ –$$ Altstadt AUSTRALIAN This likable Australian restaurant with outdoor tables is famous for its cocktails but also serves German and Aussie beer on tap. Neustadt (5km/3 miles northeast of city center). Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen $ –$$ Neustadt GERMAN Some 250 diners can fit into the dining rooms in this newly built replica of an old-fashioned beer hall. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). riverside park stretches behind the hotel. sausages. MC. V. DC. . the narrow lane that runs north from the Frauenkirche to the river. DC. AE. and another 800 can be accommodated within the sprawling beer garden (open Apr–Oct). % 0351/490-1188. Open: Daily 10 a. soups. DC. V. and roasts. the bar area becomes a crowded singles scene. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). 01097 Dresden. grassy. and salads. In 1995. % 800-937-8461 in the U. See map p. Münzgasse 8. % 0351/811-990. Rates: 250€–350€ ($312–$437) double. you can walk across the river to the Altstadt in ten minutes. 211. wander down Münzgasse.–3 a. The menu features heaping plates of traditional favorites such as roast pork shank. The bathrooms have shower units or shower-tub combinations.m. Fax: 0351/805-1749. grilled salmon. grilled lamb cutlets. Children younger than 18 stay for free in their parents’ room. 211. Schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets).–1 a. Open: Daily 11 a. Café Schinkelwache $ –$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL This sandstone structure in the center of Theaterplatz was built in 1832 by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel to house soldiers and guards. you can eat and drink to the sounds of an oom-pahpah band. On Saturday and Sunday afternoons. V. Grosse Meissner Strasse 15. and Canada. Tram: 11 to Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen. See map p.m. MC. Tram 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Main courses: 8.m. if not spacious.S. Am Brauhaus 8B.westin. AE. Dining in Dresden Dresden is bursting with new restaurants of every kind. Tram: 9 from the Hauptbahnhof stops in front of the hotel at Neustädter Markt. well-appointed. Menu items include kangaroo rump steak. ostrich steak. Waldschlösschen beer is brewed on the premises.m. MC. or 0351/805-1733. You find an on-site pool and health club. AE. See map p. sautéed fish with parsley and onions.

. 7. crepes with mushrooms and chicken. Main courses: 9€–18€ ($11–$23).50€–12€ ($8–$15). Fresh oysters and marinated herring. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Main courses: 14€–24€ ($17–$30). and Saxon sauerbraten (marinated roast beef).m.25).m. or coffee. The menu changes every week. and pork goulash with cabbage and dumplings. and white fish served with tomato-flavored spaghettini. pastas such as rigatoni with chicken breast. You can also sit and enjoy wine. Menu selections include pastries. Pastries: 2€–5€ ($2. % 0351/490-3909. Main courses: 6.Chapter 14: Dresden.m. AE. Fresh seafood dishes may include salmon with champagne sauce.m. 11. Tues–Sat 6–11 p. beer. Freiberger Schankhaus $$ Altstadt SAXON/GERMAN This place. The menu offers simple but delicious Saxon staples such as a Saxon potato fritter with cheese and strips of smoked salmon. minimalist design. or 17. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 3 p. or chicken breast fricassee with mustard. V.m. See map p. See map p. Maxstrasse 2. Accompany your meal with a glass of Freiberger Preminium Pils. Reservations recommended. 211. 12. The menu typically has dishes such as grilled lamb cutlet with asparagus and sauce béarnaise. dramatic lighting. 8. MC. located directly across from the Frauenkirche. is a good place to sit outside and eat or have a drink. For dessert try the homemade Quarkkeutchen. 4. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). AE. % 0351/490-3506. V. served with black bread. An der Frauenkirche 5. cheese. scampi. a baked dumpling filled with cheese and raisins. soups. a bowl of Linseneintopf (lentil stew). Fresh sushi is available on Wednesday and Friday nights. to midnight. Open: Daily 10 a. or bouillabaisse with North Sea fish. % 0351/498-9836. See map p. 14. with its outside terrace overlooking the newly restored Frauenkirche. Open: Daily 9 a. You can order a salad with turkey strips. is a good place to perch for a casual meal or dessert and coffee. and a blueblack color scheme. 211. Tram: 1. Fischgalerie $$ –$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD The interior of Dresden’s best fish restaurant is a sophisticated affair with an open-view kitchen..–2 a. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. MC. 2. and Weimar 215 the building was rebuilt and reconfigured into an intimate cafe with outdoor tables on the terrace (you find a tourist information center around the other side). Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. and Worcestershire sauce. meal-size salads. AE. MC.50–$6. are good appetizers. V. Sophienstrasse am Theaterplatz. Café zur Frauenkirche $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This street-side corner cafe. 211. Leipzig. and veal stew.

–1 a. Main courses: 19€–29€ ($24–$36). V. veal in thyme sauce with tomato fettuccine. erected on the site of a cluster of cottages (“the Italian Village”). Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.216 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. DC.m.m. completely smokefree setting. % 0351/498-160. Bellotto. Open: Daily 10 a. AE. MC. Rossini $$$ Altstadt ITALIAN Rossini offers fine Italian cuisine in a stylish. a graceful-looking room with windows that overlook the river.or oven-roasted marinated beef). Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Theaterplatz. Taschenberg 3. Main courses: 6. See map p. AE. called Dirndls. Flickering candles set beneath vaulted ceilings provide suitable atmosphere. . 211.50€ ($5–$8). to midnight. 211. Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais $$ Altstadt GERMAN The food in this famous cellar restaurant is a modern approximation of a medieval feast. Open: Daily 11 a. For dessert try the tiramisu with bananas or sorbet with champagne and fruit. served with asparagus and roast potatoes. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25). V. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Pastries: 4–6. MC. and so do the waitresses in their traditional German dresses. 211. DC. MC. % 0351/500-4347. % 0351/497-260. Menu items may include homemade ravioli with arugula and cheese. The restaurant has a menu in English to help you make up your mind.m. as does the formal. one floor above the lobby of the Dresden Hilton. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). and juniper sauce. Each of the four restaurants has a different theme. an upscale Italian eatery on the top floor with an outdoor balcony overlooking Theaterplatz. Open: Daily 6–11:30 p. Reservations recommended. Open: Daily 11 a. red-walled Weinzimmer (wine room). See map p.–11 p. or you may want to try the famous house specialty.m. 211. The Café. V. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. AE. % 0351/864-2855.m. AE. See map p. wild boar. or lamb with applewine sauce and polenta. DC. An der Frauenkirche 5 (in the Dresden Hilton). once housed Italian workers. You can order dishes such as grilled rabbit with thyme or trout fried in butter. is a good place for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). “August’s Hunting Trophy”: roasted medallions of venison. Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) $$ Altstadt ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL This quartet of restaurants in a neoclassical building.50€–15€ ($8–$18). MC. The Bierkeller (beer hall) with a painted ceiling serves traditional dishes such as Sauerbraten (pot. dress-up. serves dishes such as risotto with artichokes and radicchio and veal scaloppini.m. Neumarkt 8 (in the Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe). V.

4€ ($5) children and seniors. Take the funicular to the top. www. at Trachtenbergerstrasse 40. Sunday from 10 a. for 10€ ($13) adults. taking up two floors. is another money-saving option that includes all public transportation. to midnight (brunch 10 a. The German/Saxon menu features traditional dishes such as potato soup with sausages. A money-saving Tageskarte (day ticket) gets you into all four museums in the Zwinger complex. you’ll see the Standseilbahn.m. starting with moody works by Caspar David . a restaurant with an outdoor terrace offering wonderful panoramic views of the Elbe River and Dresden in the distance. and the Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (all described in this section). the Neustadt quarter has Germany’s largest concentration of houses from the Gründerzeit (Biedermeier. Albertinum Altstadt Between 1884 and 1887. a funicular that began operation in 1895. is a rich collection of 19th. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. For more information on all of Dresden’s major museums. First. the historic center.skd-dresden. On the other side. visit the Web site of the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden (State Art Collections). described under “Finding Information. take one of Dresden’s old funiculars (mountain railways) up to the top of a hill in the suburb of Loschwitz and dine in a pleasant restaurant overlooking the city. and Sauerbraten with cabbage and dumplings. the Neues Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). take Tram 8 to Schillerplatz and walk across the famous Blaue Wunder bridge. and costs 3€ ($3. The service can be slow.Chapter 14: Dresden. to 1 a.m. easy. The collection concentrates on German art. Although you won’t find the museum attractions of the Altstadt here.m..m. The funicular runs from 6 a. Bergbahnstrasse 8 (% 0351/214-9960). Leipzig. and memorable dining experience.and 20th-century art. and Weimar 217 Dinner with a view For a fun.” earlier in this chapter. to 9 p.75) round-trip. The Neustadt quarter on the north bank of the Elbe is another area you may want to visit.m. but relax with a glass of beer or wine and enjoy the view of Dresden’s spires. The Dresden Card.m.). The Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery). Main courses go for 10€ to 17€ ($12–$22). a residential area called Weisser Hirsch. the Saxon King Albert converted this former royal arsenal into a home for his vast collection of art and precious jewelry. The restaurant accepts MasterCard and Visa. early 19th-century) period. Exploring Dresden You find all of Dresden’s major attractions in the relatively compact Altstadt.–2 p. Across the street from the station is Luisenhof.m. de.

211. Sunday concerts (8€/$ 10). if you want it. and take advantage of the free audio guide.m.. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. The 1945 Allied bombing of Dresden destroyed 80 percent of the city. generally 10 a. Open: Daily. intricately designed mirrors. a brilliant painter who ran afoul of the Nazis. the great German Romantic artist. See map p. step inside the brilliant white interior to admire the immaculate restoration work. except during Sunday concerts. Note: This great collection closed in January 2006 for major redesign work.m. 7. the East German government let the charred ruin remain as a memorial. Neumarkt. Brühl Terrace. Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) Altstadt Built between 1726 and 1743. See map p. Once again this baroque church dominates the historic center of Dresden. including the Frauenkirche. ivory carvings. this dazzling selection of highlights will more than satisfy your curiosity. The new golden cross atop the dome.218 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Friedrich. In September 2006. Even better. gold jewelry. featuring a larger selection of the collection (no tours allowed. for performance information. Allow yourself at least an hour to browse this treasure-trove (be prepared for crowds). The Historic . Currently closed. 211. After the war. Unless you’re an objet d’art nut. Allot at least an hour to see the highlights. each requiring a separate admission. A painstaking restoration project began in 1993 and was finally completed in 2006.m. and as of press time there was no scheduled date for its reopening. but the paintings in the New Masters Gallery unfortunately won’t be on view until the Albertinum reopens. Admission: Free. and going up to the brilliant works of Dresden-born Otto Dix (1891–1969). and priceless porcelain. the Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Historic Green Vault) opened. Two collections are open for viewing. enjoy one of the 3 p. or 8 to Rathenau Platz. to noon and 1–6 p. The reopening of the church was an event of major symbolic importance. including rococo chests. % 0351/491-4619. see the Web site. But there’s more. but it was moved to this new location in September 2004. the Frauenkirche on the southeast side of Neumarkt (New Market Square) was the most important Protestant church in Germany and had one of the most famous domes in 18th-century objects. and all your belongings must be checked before entering). an exact replica of the 18th-century original. The Neues Grünes Gewölbe (New Green Vault) features ten rooms of selected masterworks from the huge collection of 16th. Tram: 3. % 0351/6560-670. bronze statuettes. The sculpture collection has been moved to the Zwinger (see later in this section). was built by the son of a British bomber pilot who took part in the original bombing raid. Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) Altstadt The fabulous assortment of treasures displayed in the Residenzschloss formerly was housed in the Albertinum.

or 51 to Carolaplatz. Sun noon to 4 p. fountains. hand-woven baskets. designed a series of galleries and domed pavilions to enclose a large rectangular courtyard with formal gardens. He wanted the Zwinger to be his Versailles and a place where he could show off his incredible art collections. described earlier). you can see the crypt with the tombs of 49 kings and princes of Saxony. Admission: New Green Vault 6€ ($7. 211. with its graceful fountains and mythological figures.75) adults. Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts) Neustadt The oldest Renaissance building in Dresden.m.) bell tower decorated with statues of saints and apostles. Frederick Augustus II (ruled 1733–1763). D.m.. The semicircular Wallpavillon at the west end and the adjacent Nymphenbad (Bath of Nymphs). Pöppelmann (1662–1736). elector of Saxony and king of Poland. 5. See map p.skddresden. Trinitas. and Christmas decorations from the nearby Erzgebirge region. built this magnificent baroque palace in 1719.m. Open: Daily 10 a. Schlossplatz. What you see are everyday objects used by the common folk — a far cry from the gem-encrusted treasures in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault. Jägerhof.–6 p.–4 p. Historic Green Vault 12€ ($14). Admission: 3€ ($3. 211.). and promenades. % 0351/803-0817. % 0351/4914-2000. Kopckestrasse 1.m. M. the church was constructed in a lavish Italian baroque style with a curving facade and 86m (282-ft. 211. and folk costumes. also known as the Cathedral of St. Built by the son of Augustus the Strong. Katholische Hofkirche (Catholic Court Church) Altstadt The restored Hofkirche. % 0351/495-1133.m.m. 3.–6 p. pottery. Open: Mon–Fri 9 a.m.Chapter 14: Dresden. Admission: Free. Sat 10 a.–4:30 p. 2€ ($2.m. The architect. Also shown are toys. the 16th-century Jägerhof (Hunters Court) houses this fine collection of regional folk art. 7. and Weimar 219 Green Vault can only be visited with a prebooked timed-entry ticket.50) adults. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. (Historic Green Vault until 7 p. See map p.50) children and students. On display are pieces of painted carvings.m. tableware. You need about 15 minutes to look around. Residenzschloss.50€ ($4. Sophienstrasse. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.50) seniors and children. Tram: 3. available in advance by calling % 0351/4911-9285 or online at www. Inside. 8. Leipzig. Zwinger Altstadt Augustus the Strong. are notable buildings that rely on the exuberant sculptures of the Bavarian artist Balthasar Permoser . Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. See map p. is the largest church in Saxony.

a separate section of the Semper Gallery. The most important museum is the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) in the Semper Gallery (entrance at Theaterplatz 1). Today. On the northeast side is the Semper Gallery. Dürer. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection).50) adults.50€ ($ 4. and Rembrandt. You save money with a Tageskarte (Day Ticket). it costs 10€ ($ 13) for adults. 5€ ($ 6. Allow at least two hours for unhurried browsing.220 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany (1651–1732). you find the Mathematische-Physikalischer Salon (Salon of Mathematics and Physics). Gottfried Semper added the pavilion in 1846. 3. Vermeer. or 8 to Postplatz. % 0351/491-4622. a Renaissancestyle two-story pavilion linked by one-story galleries. Admission is 6€ ($ 7.m. Depending on your interest. Chinese. Admission is 3€ ($ 3.25) adults. Admission is 5€ ($ 6.75) for adults. In galleries two through four. The collection includes examples from over five millennia. The entrance is directly across from the entrance to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. to 6 p. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. Tram: 2. Rubens. you can see everything in under half an hour. Dutch. you can see a small but superlative collection of armor and weapons from the 15th to 18th centuries. The collection also includes Flemish. and the Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts. to the left of the Wallpavillon. has as its showpiece Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. Canaletto’s views of Dresden are so true to life that they were used as reference works during the post-WWII reconstruction of the city. you can spend 15 minutes or an hour. and Meissen porcelain from the 18th and 19th centuries. 2€ ($ 2. and German paintings by Van Dyck.–6 p.50) for children and seniors. Give yourself about 15 minutes to wander through. 4. depending on your interest level. 211. This gallery. with its entrance in the Glockenspiel Pavillon (Carillon Pavillion). the Green Vault. Again. 2. Admission is 5€ ($ 6.m. starting with the ancient cultures of the Mediterranean region through all epochs of European sculpture to the present. .m. In the Rüstkammer (Armory).50€ ($ 3) for children and seniors. See map p. with all manner of clocks and scientific instruments of the 16th to 19th centuries. 2€ ($ 2. On the west side of the Zwinger. displays Japanese. this entire complex of buildings contains a stunning collection of museums. They all are open the same hours — Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.50) for children and seniors.50) children and seniors.75) for adults.25) children and seniors. Theaterplatz 1. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. you find a series of detailed townscapes of Dresden painted by Canaletto in the mid 18th century. good for all Zwinger museums. The “giant animal room” on the second floor has a collection of 18th-century Meissen animals. Selections from the Skulpturen-Sammlung (Sculpture Collection) formerly housed in the Albertinum are now on view in the Zwinger in the ground floor of the Französischer Pavillon (French Pavilion. entrance in the courtyard).m. one of the best in the world. 20€ ($ 25) for a family.25) adults. — but charge separate admission prices.

and Altmarkt. and Weimar 221 The Zwinger Wallpavillon Mathematische– Physikalischer Salon Nymphenbad Julian–Grimau–Allee Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Picture Gallery) Theaterplatz Rüstkamner (Armory) Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection) Glockenspielpavillon Kronentor Shopping in Dresden Dresden’s main shopping streets are Prager Strasse. Leipzig.m. where you find department stores Wilsdruffer Strasse. accessible via Hauptstrasse 17–19 (Tram: 9). you find many high-quality antiques dealers lining both sides of a lane called Am Goldenen Reiter.Chapter 14: Dresden. More-exclusive shops reside in Neustadt on the north side of the river on Königstrasse and Hauptstrasse. in the Altstadt. The best shops Weihnachtsland am Zwinger. beneath the Albertbrücke (bridge) (Tram: 1 or 4). Tram: 4 or 8). A Trödelmarkt (flea market) is open Saturdays from 9 a. Kleine Brüdergasse 5 (% 0351/862-1230. is the best-stocked and most interesting gift Zwinger- graben . to 3 p. In Neustadt.m.

You can also take a free tour of the studios and factory. Theaterplatz 2 (% 0351/4911705. The main stage for classical theater in the city is the Schauspielhaus. takes place in the Altmarkt and features handmade regional crafts and gift items and homemade foods. seeing a performance by the resident company. Tram: 3 or 5). www. discos. The oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Dresden is Wehsener Porzellan. you can find classical concerts.dresdnerphilharmonie. Tickets are 10€ to 25€ ($13–$31). Opera and classical concerts The Semperoper (Semper Opera House). selling handmade Christmas. The theater is closed during August. the Sächsisches Oper (Saxon Opera). www. Summer concerts take place in the courtyards of the Its hand-painted objects are the most charming and interesting in Dresden. can be a highlight of your trip. Tram: 4 or 8). Look for woodcarvings from the Erzgebirge Mountains. filigree lace from Plauen. This December event. so many and varied nightlife options always are available. Schiller. and blown-glass tree decorations from Lauscha. or 7). gingerbread from Pulsnitz.222 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany shop in Dresden. The opera and ballet season lasts from September to mid-July. Postplatz (% 0351/491-350. and Shakespeare. The Dresden Philharmonic performs at the Kulturpalast. Several operas by Richard Wagner and Richard Strauss had their premieres in this house. or just a good place to relax with a glass of wine or a beer. Bus: 72 or 76). 5km (3 miles) southeast of the center at Donaustrasse 72 (% 0351/4707340. which began in 1434. Tickets cost 11€ to 40€ ($14–$50). Ticket prices range from 8€ to 78€ ($10–$97). rock shows. New Year’s. 2. Depending on your tastes. where actors perform dramas by Goethe. Tickets for classical concerts. Tram 1. . and opera are available from the tourist information centers on Prager Strasse and Theaterplatz. and Easter ornaments from the nearby Erzgebirge region.semperoper. If you’re an opera buff. The famous Christmas market Dresden’s Weihnachtsmarkt (also called the Striezelmarkt) is the oldest Christmas market in Germany. Anything you buy can be shipped. Discovering nightlife in Dresden Dresden is the cultural center of Saxony. which was built in the mid 19th century and twice rebuilt. Advent stars from Hermhut. 4. indigo-printed cloth and pottery from Lusatia. is one of the world’s great opera houses. Tram: 13. in the Altmarkt (% 0351/48660.

. (See the “Leipzig” map in this chapter. The trips take from 3 to 41⁄2 hours. The club is open daily from 9 p. Tram: 7 or 8).000 people. the esplanade that runs along the south bank of the river. Die 100. is open from 9 a. Monday is gay and lesbian night. or “city of heroes. to 2 a. to 2 a. Food and drink are for sale onboard. I recommend that you take a boat trip along the Elbe River. on weekends. located at the confluence of the Weisse Elster and Pleisse rivers. Elbe cruises leave from the dock below Brühl Terrace. 7. low-key bar without intrusive music.m. % 0351/ 866-090) runs several trips on historic paddle-wheelers and modern boats through a scenic region known as Sächsisches Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland).m. daily excursions depart for the Saxon Switzerland route.Chapter 14: Dresden. The upstairs cafe at Planwirtschaft. Visiting Leipzig is worth the trip to see a proud East German city rediscovering and redefining itself after years of Communist rule. 8. Leipzig has long been a major cultural and commercial force in Saxony. Tram: 7 or 8). Katherinenstrasse 11–13 (% 0351/802-8801.m. a small. Tram: 7. in English. The Sächsische Dampfschiffahrtsgesellschaft (Saxon Excursion Boat Company. Leipzig: City of Heroes Historic Leipzig. Other routes travel to Meissen and through Bohemia. online at www. or 11). and on Sunday you find dinner and dancing.m.” for its role in toppling the former Communist government of East Germany. where you see castle-crowned hilltops. Leipzig is only a little smaller than Dresden.) With a population of about 450. You can check out all the Elbe excursions. Tram: 3. Böhmische Strasse 34 (% 0351/804-5706. Although it doesn’t look like much.m. is a trendy drinking place set in a cellar and popular with students and artists. the downstairs bar stays open until 3 a. open daily from 5 p. a center of publishing. and Weimar 223 Sailing through Saxon Switzerland If you have the time. From May into October. Alaunstrasse 100 (% 0351/801-3957. deep gorges. 5.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. A dance club with room for everyone is DownTown and Groove Station.m. 8.m.saechsische-dampfschiffahrt. Louisenstrasse 20 (% 0351/8013187. is a hip dive with sand-covered floors. Bars and clubs Café Hieronymous. Tram: 7 or 8). Louisenstrasse 10 (% 0351/801-1739. to 2 a. and home to a famous university . giant rocks. The place is open Monday to Friday from 11 a. and sheer sandstone cliffs. Cover is 4€ ($5).. Leipzig. Raskolnikoff. is called a Heldenstadt. The round-trip cost is 18€ ($22) per until the last person leaves.m. is open daily from 7 p. or 11). to 1 a.m.m. to 3 a.

Leipzig was heavily bombed by British and American forces in 1943. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861 or visit www. By train The Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station). a new commercial flash point for Leipzig-Halle International Airport (% 0341/224-1155. 111km (68 miles) to the northwest. Willy-Brandt-Platz. including the famed Gewandhaus Orchestra. a train station. The 25. or you may want to spend the night in this lively Saxon metropolis. By car Leipzig is connected to the A9 (Berlin–Munich) and the A14 (Halle– Dresden) Autobahns. You still find some narrow streets and houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. to midnight. and restaurants. B184) pass by or skirt Leipzig. Getting there Leipzig has all the transportation options of a major city: an airport. The recently restored Hauptbahnhof is one of the most happening places in Leipzig. The fare is 8€ ($10). and its skyscrapers and nightlife give the city a cosmopolitan flair that’s unique for this region. and to other European destinations. B6.bahn. Dresden (about 11⁄2–2 hours). . B181. and much of the city is rebuilt or being rebuilt. Johann Sebastian Bach is closely associated with Leipzig. A number of federal highways ( 30-minute taxi ride to the city center costs about 30€ ($37).224 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany with some 20. But people in Leipzig are much more interested in looking forward than looking back. B87. and a good road network. is the largest on the Continent. trade fairs have played an important role in the city’s life. trip time is 14 minutes. and Frankfurt (5 hours). Leipzig also is a city with many great musical traditions. shops. For information and train schedules. and some Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings and arcades from the early 20th century. You can easily visit Leipzig as a daytrip from Dresden. Trains arrive daily from Berlin (about 21⁄2 hours).m. and Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig in 1813. such as Munich and Frankfurt. www. For centuries. B95. By plane Several airlines link Leipzig to major German cities. You can easily get there from anywhere in lies 11km (7 miles) northwest of the city center. Mozart and Mendelssohn performed here.000 students. The Flughafen (Airport) Express train runs between the airport and the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station) every 30 minutes from 4:30 a.

z-Str h n it Tauc er- Gr Nü ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Fürstenhof 2 Leipzig Marriott Hotel 4 The Westin Leipzig 1 DINING Apels Garten 6 Auerbachs Keller 12 Paulaner Palais 7 Di ttr ich rin g Mart i n . ün ew al d s rnb erg . Katharinenstrasse Schwanenteich markt Augustusplatz Univers 14 Neu- Universität Leipzig Grimmai scher Steinweg Georg iring Burgplatz atz Schil lerstr asse pl Ro Go ss ldsc Str ass hm e t r.L u t h Neues Opernhaus Petersstrasse Burgstrass Sch Johannisplatz uls tra e sse Neues Gewandhaus 16 idts tras se .1 mile N Parthenstrasse Uferstrasse strasse Nordstrasse Pfaffendorfer strasse Information Railway i r.Chapter 14: Dresden. Ritterstr asse 5 asse Hain str. tmbold Hu Hauptbahnhof 2 Tröndlinring RichardWagnerPlatz Richard-Wagner-Strasse Brühl Sachsenplatz 3 4 Ric erd ele rrin g ha rd- Gr. m str Frankfurt Bee t h o v e Munich ATTRACTIONS Bach-Museum 8 Grasssi Museum 16 Museum der Bildenden Künste 3 Museum für Kunsthandwerk 14 Museum für Völkerkunde 11 Museum in der Runden Ecke 5 MusikinstrumentenMuseum 10 Nikolaikirche 15 Thomaskirche 9 Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig 13 . Gerberst r. Fleischer g ass Reichsstrasse Nikolaistrasse WillyBrandtPlatz Wa gn erStr ass e i Brü hl Go e Goet hestr Barfu 6 e itätsstr. Alte Waage Marktplatz ssg ässch.Ri Rossplatz ng Hamburg Berlin er Leipzig GERMANY am Main Dimitroffstrasse nstrasse ind nW ühle . and Weimar 225 Leipzig t er-S ach hum t-Sc Kur 1 0 0 100 meters 0. Leipzig. Alte Börse Markt 7 Naschmarkt Altes 15 Rathaus Gr as im maische S om 8 Th sse tr asse ga 11 12 13 9 KönigsMädler10 haus passag Klosterg.

and bus network. helpful service here is a real recommendation. The rejuvenated bathrooms are nicely done and have a combination tub and shower. or 0341/1400. but that’s the point.. booking your room in advance is essential. Saturday 9 a.m. If you travel to Leipzig during those periods. www. 04105 Leipzig. and the breakfast buffet is great. to 6 p.lvb. The lobby will be reconfigured and all the rooms freshened up in 2007 (the hotel’s tenth anniversary). AE. . reliable choice for leisure or business travelers (it tends to attract more business travelers because of the array of amenities and executive-level services it offers).m. The friendly.226 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding information and taking a tour Pick up a city map at the tourist information office. www.m. The tourist office offers a 90-minute city-sightseeing tour daily at 11 a. within easy walking distance of the train station and just across from the new museum of fine arts.m. and Sunday 9 a. See map p. SBahn (surface trains). 225.m. the public transit authority. open Monday through Friday from 9 a. Rates: 265€– 300€ ($331–$375) double. Richard-WagnerStrasse 1 (% 0341/ Fax: 0341/140-3700. V. this hotel has 92 rooms redecorated to reflect the original neoclassical styling. You can also book a hotel room here and purchase tickets for concerts and sightseeing tours.leipzig. Tröndlinring 8. You can purchase tickets from automated machines at the stops. Staying in Leipzig Twice a year. and the bathrooms all have tub/shower combinations. The Leipzig Marriott is a good. An Einzelfahrkarte (single ticket) in “Zone Leipzig” costs 1. MC. The commentary is in German only. Leipzig Marriott Hotel $ –$$$ City Center Fans of Marriott hotels won’t find any surprises in this one. to 2 p. An on-site health club has a pool and a sauna.m. Fares are based on zones.. % 800-426-3135 in the U. www. runs the city’s tram.60€ ($2).m. Leipzig is the site of huge trade fairs that bring in tens of thousands of visitors. Tram: 15. the location. Rooms are comfortable and good-sized (with beds that beat the Westin’s for comfort).de). Hotel Fürstenhof $$$$ City Center Housed in a historic 18th-century DC. Getting around Leipzig If you arrive by train for a daytrip. usually the first week in September and the second week in March. LVB (% 0172/1000000. is a major plus.S. you can easily walk from the train station to all the attractions in the Altstadt (Old Town). to 4 p. for 12€ ($15).

-Hoffmann-/ Ad nn er-/ nnße se er r A atze bo y a r s l e e La per u e i .. 12 1 Südplatz Stieglitzstr.. An der Märchenwiese 6 . ke cher er t Str. k zs or str eri 10 oß nd Ring ed ine i Gr Wi r. .-HoffmannK. str. p r Paunsdorf-Center f Volksgarten Wilh.Waldplatz Sportforum Leibnizstr. W lip c s i h E 11 14 ow Sc rg g m h r 3 A irc be be st Großstädteln. 1 n ie ar . lle Str erg Ri Ein Saturnstr. tr.-Eisner-/ S1 Altes Messegelände A. Schönefeld. Paunsdorfer Allee/ Fr. Körnerstr. hk tzs ah tsc aetz Delitzscher/Essener Str.-Liebknecht-Platz e Pfingstweide Gorkistr. ar eg Eutritzsch.. Kreuz hw Str Völkerschlachtdenkmal pl. ö K Na tr. Hu Dantestr. H.-Lampel-Str. Virchow-/ Mosenthinstr. Sc Fre Al Lü Sta St Viertelsweg P Sc Pittlerstr. 4 S-Bahn Prager/Riebeck Str. G tz a ner A n Nord z itz z .-Schwarz-/L. m e e n S Strbf. Krankenhaus Thekla Bis er W . . er / M f. Diakonissenhaus s . Strbf. lat hn Str. tzs gelKoburger Brücke 4 Hildebrandstr. ritz rü ilti Wilh.nze Curschmannstr. Leipzig.-Hupfeld-Str. Hermelinstr. h c c s ns 2 15 10 16 ho f 9 a e c Bahnhof Markkleeberg. str Theresienstr. h t Ku str. Dessauer Str. r r . ma Ost Th. a i e Kir ön al nau rlän Lindenau de ng To Wurzen Jupiterstr. . . . O. en diu Lind iet urg Heinßers t r n e i r t n a r e e r Gutenbergplatz n S n . r a t a schlößchen a S m st l 8 15 Zoo 7 8 18 au rb Am Vorwerk -P -St tr.Liebermann-Str. Paunsdorf. Annaberger ll z ls te r tte Neues Rathaus He erse rit tr. Lützowstr. Teslastr. Sommerfeld tö ne -Eis . hk Mod Hän str.-Segerr.-Reis-Str. tr. f Merseburger Str. V l l l k k k 16 rk ut M a a Borna To S1 M 18 Kn 227 Leipzig S-Bahn . S-Bf. R r i o H tt D tz K u sd R. Marschner-C tze lsru M it z na r Stö aue est aus str. Lortzinge M G. Anger-Crottendorf S lle sst ena e-/ tr. r z e F L 11 lit rk est Markkleeberg-West ö e D l w m e 12 r k u 9 se Se in pe as 13 hw ke erh sstr ims euss ras Miltitz f e l L L g l F t o . Wiebelstr. Post Taucha. Platz S-B Hohe Str. Forstweg e LindenG. s u z ö Permoserstr. K.A. eg z.-Heine-/ le e Roßplatz Riebeck/ str.-Körner-Str. Hornbach Baumarkt e el Freiligrathstr. Meu Str. B W R K St L -B Bayrischer S . ch ud ler ha atz S-Bf. Völkerschlachtdenkmal R. Ahornstr. Mockau. vd ew isbahnhof h rk Lin A EdlichPlo Ki Am Sc Pa Grü Saa nn tsw nit str str. Chapter 14: Dresden. Rathaus Str rn S tr Apelstr. Leutzsch Bautzner Str. Böhlitz-Ehrenberg Heisenbergstr. Ossietzky-/ a tr. Barnecker Str. e e e e t h r a K. Permoser/Torgauer c G. Volbedingstr. Pfeffingerstr. 10 Eutritzscher Markt 11 Portitzer Allee Döringstr. Paunsdorf Borsdorf S-Bf. r S Str. Hohentichelnstr. St st rst lle lst Str -St ge An den Tierkliniken us ta A.-Liebknecht-/ S-Bf. ke z .-Lehmann-Str. . G ee Bf. ue r. E s r Hauptl v Str. Industriegelände West rs z a e t ch e S3 Hauptt . Landsberger Str. Stu höna to Connewitz. Gohlis S-Bf. Wielandstr. S-Bf. L cke bein enb NordS-B ied Stallbaumstr. G t .-Liebknecht-/ Deutsche Bücherei 2 . Sommerfeld Rathaus Leutzsch r S platz W t Am Mückenn nn n S-Bf. Wittenberger Str. bahnhof m ist erts ieb L. t Meusdorf Parkstr. 4 3 18 dt rm Herwegh-Str. e r r r r n n Str.-Lehmann-Str. Paunsdorf-Nord Paunsdorf-Nord Südstr. Ku Zs Wiedebach. Karolusstr.-Schumann-/ Wilheminenstr. d u Gottschallc h s e m o m e ic ir h 1 S. chb uer ee er A der S-Bf. Marienbrunn c Prager/Russenstr.-H Str.-Eisner Str.A ll f. eis tr. P -Platz S-B S-B Str. e le ue K. u ta t Gohlis. Mockauer/Volbedingstr. b M t s i a ö l . yg L. u i Lößnig H he 8 w S tr. Taucha s 12 n 14 Taucha ck 9 r e e a d Gohlislle m Beyerleinstr. thaler Str. 2 An Sc uer Sc Südfriedhof 3 Mathildenstr. S3 Rödelstr. u r s r platz S-Bf. G Fe No str r A her Riebeck-/Oststr. Kirche a el di elw hen er h ud tr. Elster-Passage S1 S Johannisallee Holbeinstr. . Ph. Bahnhof 15 ee ee O . Ar t Roseggerstr. ns r Moritz-Hof 7 tte r ze tr.Bar Merseburger aue rbrü Bf. ha Str.-Schwarz-/ n u he H s c H r ba Se Fr. resl eiß ath olm ötte .Westplatz ten er Breite Str. Connewitz s 5 Wildpark Klemmur.Jo pl r. Ka Al zn lagw . R . ns G. r Raschwitz Forsthaus Markleeberg. g i r f t n t R.-Schmidt-Str. t Leuschner f f Stötteritzer Clara-Zetkin-Park B ü S Witzgallstr. Thomaskirche . Chauseehaus Str. R b K. T. O kt . and Weimar Wiederitzsch-Mitte Neue Messe Messegelände 16 GeorgDachauer Str. Coppiplatz Eutritzscher Zentrum 7 Friedrichshafner Str.14 K.-Jahn-Str. Engelsdorf S3 eri Re Köh Goerdelerring Augustus.-Schumann-/ Möchern Hist. . Coppistr. t n i t i b Landsberger/M.-Lehmann-/ ch Naunhofer Str. Markranstäder Str. Probstheida Triftweg S-Bf. Hamburger Schönefeld. Wahren Heiterblick. zs Menckestr. . Hermelinstr. Mockau. tr. Zwickauer Str.-NA. r c fm Trams rf ka zm /G m tz M st ar er/R s K o e a a a e z . en ue Ostplatz St ö tte r S r.

www. and within easy walking distance of all the sights in the Altstadt. Rates include breakfast buffet. V. Kolonnadenstrasse 2. Specialties include Saxon potato soup with wurst. The Westin Leipzig $$$ –$$$$ City Center One of the city’s tallest buildings. 225. contemporary style. Although more robust than refined. such as . with its painted ceiling. 10. www.m. Guests have a choice of the Historic Rooms (dinner only) or the Big Room (lunch and dinner).228 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. % 0341/960-7777. 04105 Leipzig. The restaurant is named after one of the old pleasure gardens that used to adorn Leipzig. AE. or 13. MC. You can dine out on the porch in warm weather. Main courses: 7. and has room service.–3:30 p. Regional cooking favors hearty portions and simple. and sauna. the 27-story Westin reflects the Leipzig of today. and one of its finest modern hotels. Reservations recommended. See map p. Sun 10 a. Rates: 99€–164€ ($124–$205) double. 8. The restaurant Brühl serves traditional German food. Tram: 3. 225. Apels Garten $ –$$ GERMAN/SAXON This restaurant.50€–16€ ($10–$20). The décor is nostalgically oldfashioned. Rates: 145€–235€ ($181–$294) double. % 800/426-3135 in the U. 04109 Leipzig. is known for its home-style German food. Gerberstrasse 15. and pork steaks. in a quiet Leipzig neighborhood close to the Altstadt. Not all rooms have been upgraded (the new ones are on the highest floors). but the old ones are comfortably furnished and have good-sized bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. Open: Mon– Sat 11:30 a. pool. and Canada.S. % 800-327-0200 in the U. while Yamato is one of the best places in Leipzig for Japanese food. Tram: 4.m. to midnight. The menu features regional cuisine of Saxony. 225. filling ingredients. but this city is not particularly well known for its culinary scene. Am Hallischen Tor 1. DC. V. Auerbachs Keller $ –$$ SAXON/INTERNATIONAL A group of sculpted bronze characters from Goethe’s play Faust adorns the staircase leading down to this famous medieval cellar restaurant where Goethe had Faust debate Mephistopheles. AE. It was an Inter-Continental hotel until 2003. DC. Fax: 0341/988-1229. 11. V.westin.m. MC. when Westin took over and began redecorating the 447 rooms in a sleek. or 0341/9880. Tram: 4 or 6. Dining in Leipzig More restaurants are opening in Leipzig all the time.S. the cuisine is good. This full-service hotel contains a health club. Fax: 0341/965-3999. The hotel is a convenient five-minute walk from the train station. roast duck with arugula. See map p. or 0341/ 6.

Across from this house. % 0341/216-100. where demonstrators for democracy gathered in 1989. Most of the old and the new Leipzig that has appeal for visitors is concentrated in the Zentrum (City Center). . with curving stairs and stucco garlands above the windows. the city’s best-known square. once used by the rulers of Saxony as a royal guesthouse. To the south of Marktplatz is the Mädlerpassage. Leipzig. AE. stands the yellow-and-white Alte Börse (Old Produce Exchange). Open: Historic Rooms Mon–Sat 6 p. Grimmaischestrasse 2–4. to midnight. along with a selection of international dishes.m. V. AE.m. each offering the same menu. To the west rises the high-pitched roof of the 1. Big Room daily 11:30 a.m. Tram: 4 or 6. Open: Daily 11 a. but you can also get Saxon Sauerbraten. where Bach served as choirmaster for 27 years. Paulaner Palais $ GERMAN/BAVARIAN/AUSTRIAN This large. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). Nicholas Church). a small. The menu emphasizes boiled meats such as Tafelspitz (beef) with heavy sauces. V. Thomas Church). is the Königshaus (King’s House). easily walked area south of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Reservations recommended for dinner in Historic Rooms. On the east side of the square is the long. Mädlerpassage. the Alte Börse was the first baroque building in Leipzig. The summer courtyard within the building is the nicest place to dine. Klostergasse 3–5. MC. Kids enjoy the underground atmosphere and usually can find something on the menu to their liking.) In the neighboring Naschmarkt. Renaissance Altes Rathaus. The only beer they serve is the Munich-brewed Paulaner Bier. Tram: 4 or 6. See map p. The Universität Leipzig (Leipzig University) occupies the area south of Grimmaisch-Strasse. a famous arcade of shops and restaurants. on the south side of the square. See map p. MC. Main courses: 8€–19€ ($10–$24). has a restaurant and a more casual pub section. or Rostbratwurst (roasted sausages) from Nuremberg. A short walk leads to the pastel baroque houses along Katharinenstrasse and the Brühl. Reservations recommended. home of Auerbachs Keller (see “Dining in Leipzig” earlier in this chapter). Reconstructed on the north side of the square is the step-gabled Renaissance Alte Waage (Old Weighing House). to midnight. Weisswurst (steamed pork sausage) from Munich. Remnants of old Leipzig have been reconstructed around the Markt. % 0341/211-3115. behind a statue of Goethe as a student. to midnight. and Weimar 229 warmes Bratenneckchen (roasted pork on brown bread with a pepper dip). completed in 1687. DC.Chapter 14: Dresden. (Peter the Great of Russia and Napoleon also stayed there. Just east of the Marktplatz is the 12thcentury Nikolaikirche (St. gabled. 225. The city has placed more of an emphasis on constructing the new than on restoring the old. housed in an 18th-century rococo building. popular restaurant.000-year-old Thomaskirche (St. Exploring Leipzig Bombing in 1943 destroyed about one-quarter of Leipzig. 225.

50) family ticket. ethnography.m. The house now contains the largest Bach archive in S. Sat 2 p. the Grassi Museum. Matthew. % 0341/222-9100) displays an array of handmade objects from the Middle Ages up to the early 20th century. www. Every May.. See map p. the three museums in the Grassi complex are scheduled to reopen in 2007. serves as the cultural heart of modern Leipzig.230 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bach in Leipzig The composer Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750) is Leipzig’s most famous citizen. After years of restoration. You can see everything in this small museum in about half an hour. Bach wrote more than 200 cantatas. Bach’s. 13 with his second). friends of J. Many mementos of the composer.–5 p. to the east of the Nikolaikirche and the university. ߜ The Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum of Ethnography. Grassi Museum Completed in 1929.. % 0341/964-4133. The immense and not very attractive new opera house occupies the north side of the square. % 0341/ 973-1900) displays highlights from the permanent collection of . Tram: 21. are on display. on Johannis-Platz just east of the Zentrum. Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (% 0341/913-7333. during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche and other venues around town. Carl Philipp Emanuel. Sun 11 a. also became composers. and glassware. and the Mass in B Minor. ߜ The Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Applied Arts Museum. Three of his sons. Tours: Fri 3 p. if you love Bach. the Neues Gewandhaus concert hall stands on the south. 6€ ($7. houses Leipzig’s arts and crafts. jointed doll dating from 1526.bach-leipzig.m. and Wilhelm Friedemann. Bach-Museum This reconstructed house standing in the shadow of the Thomaskirche once was home to the Bose family. In Leipzig.m. He came to Leipzig at the age of 38 to be choirmaster and director of the Thomaskirche’s boys’ choir and director of music at Leipzig University. 225. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. Bach was the father of no fewer than 17 children (4 by his first wife. You find beautiful examples of furniture.m. and 3 p. Augustus-Platz. Open: Daily 10 a. and stayed for the rest of his life. Johann Christian.m. An excellent audio guide in English is included in the price of admission. Look for the extremely rare. you’ll be tempted to linger. www. including scores and letters. Thomaskirchhof 16. and musical instruments collections.bach-leipzig. the Passion According to St.m.

one of Germany’s most important art collections reopened in a new $ 100-million glass-and-steel. 21.50€ ($4.m. 1989. Dittrichring 24. 3. Admission: Combined ticket for 2 museums 5€ ($6.m. Johannisplatz 5–11. Tram: 1. local citizens took a giant step toward toppling the government of East Germany when they seized this building. Founded in 1837. confiscating private letters and listening in on phone conversations. Leipzig. Nicholas Church) The present church was built in the 16th century and has a white. The museum is open late on Thursday (until 8 p. but it also displays Dutch and Flemish art of the 17th century (including a lively Frans Hals). Tram: 21.–6 p. 225. 61 years to the day after its original home was destroyed by a bomb in WWII. 4. 2. On the nights of December 4 and 5. Admission: Free. % 0341/961-2443.–6 p. Open: Tues and Thurs–Sun 10 a. Caspar David Friedrich).). 225. 6. Allow at least an hour just to stroll through.m. 15. exhibits Italian. Katharinenstrasse 101 (on Sachsenplatz). 225. www. or 24. but be aware that none of the exhibits are translated into English. or “state security”). 17. % 0341/ www. See map p. www. Admission: 5€ ($6.m. Tram: 3.m. Museum in der Runden Ecke (Stasi Museum) This chillingly fascinating museum is housed in the building that once was the headquarters of the dreaded Stasi (short for Staatssicherheit. The new building is a serenely handsome affair that hasn’t quite caught on with the public yet. (Wed noon to 8 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. the East German Ministry for State Security. 10€ ($13) family ticket. On this site in 1989. You may want to spend a few minutes here. considered one of the best of its kind in the world. See map p. neoclassical interior. A nice little cafe is located on the premises (open the same hours as the museum). Nikolaikirche (St. An exhibition called “The Power and Banality of the East German Secret Police” documents the meticulous and paranoid methods by which Stasi agents monitored every exchange of information in East Germany. See map p.m. European art of the 15th and 16th centuries. and contemporary works. Leipzig’s Museum of Fine Arts is especially strong in German painting of the 19th century (including works by that quintessential Romantic.Chapter 14: Dresden. cube-shaped building on Sachsenplatz. mdbk. ߜ The Museum für Musikinstrumente (Musical Instruments Museum.50) children and students. German. you may find you’re the only person there.25) adults. a group of 10.000 demonstrators gathered with candles and began the peaceful revolution that toppled the . Open: Daily 10 a.).25) adults. % 0341/973-0750). and French musical instruments of the 16th to the 19th centuries.grassimuseum.runde-ecke-leipzig. and Weimar 231 cultural artifacts relating to the peoples of the world. de.m.–6 p.m. Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) In late free on second Sun of the month. Bus: 8.

m. was choirmaster in this church from 1723 until his death 27 years later. % 0341/22200. 225. See map p. and close at 10 p. Open: Daily 8 a. See map p. Thomaskirche (St. or 13. 8. Johann Sebastian Bach. Bach wrote his great cantatas for the Thomanerchor. documents. East Germany’s Communist government. Admission: Free. Sat–Sun 10 a. The Naschmarkt. expensive boutiques. Open daily in December in front of the Altes Rathaus.–5 p.–6 p. Open: Daily 9 a. Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) I recommend that anyone traveling to Leipzig visit this free multimedia exhibition. 6.m. newsreels. Tram: 2.. the choir presents concerts every Sunday morning and Friday evening. with about 140 shops and cafes that open between 6:30 and 9 a. lined with chic. open Monday through Saturday. Give yourself at least an hour. the exhibit uses photos. 15. Shopping in Leipzig Exploring the handsomely restored Art Nouveau Arkaden (arcades) that thread through the historic core of Leipzig is fun. first organized in the 13th century. Thomaskirchhof 18 (just off Marktplatz).m. cheeses. Thomas Church) Leipzig’s most famous resident. Admission: Free. Set up chronologically. His body was moved here in 1950 on the 200th anniversary of his death and reburied in front of the altar.m. or 8. on weekdays and 4 p. 225.m. or 20.m.232 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany GDR. % 0341/960-2855.m. sophisticated. is a lively. See map p. When it isn’t touring. meats. Grimmaische Strasse 6. the church’s famous boys’ choir. % 0341/960-5270. audio. 6.–6 p.m. The movement started as a prayer group in the Nikolaikirche in 1982. 6. and a bit of everything.m.m.” the exhibit may help you better understand contemporary German history. what life was like in Communist East Germany. The church was built on the site of a 13thcentury monastery and was heavily restored after WWII and again after reunification. 10. Nikolaikirchhof. and the events that triggered the fall of the GDR.–6 p. Leipzig’s Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) recently was transformed into a giant shopping mall. Open: Tues–Fri 9 a. Admission: Free. 225. Both Mozart and Mendelssohn also performed in the Thomaskirche. plants. Tram: 4. and memorabilia to guide you through the tumultuous last half-century in eastern Germany. Described as a place of “living remembrance. centrally located outdoor market that sells vegetables. 11. Mädlerpassage is Leipzig’s finest arcade. Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a tradition dating back to . 4.m. and Richard Wagner was christened here in 1813. Its high-pitched roof dates from 1496. Tram: 4. on Saturday.

de. Tram: 4 or 6). 6. the orchestra premiered works by Beethoven. opposite the Neues Gewandhaus.000-year-old town that once was a center of the German Enlightenment. Germany’s first democratic government after World War I (WWI). Mädlerpassage (% 0341/216-100. Augustusplatz 8 (% 0341/ 126-1261. a concert hall built in 1981. 15. The town is well known to architecture buffs. or 15). 12.–8 p. great for people-watching. or 15). because the German national assembly met here in 1919 to draw up the constitution for the ill-fated Weimar Republic. 17. writers. gewandhaus. The Neues Gewandhaus. www. Bosestrasse 1 (% 0341/ 12680. Founded in 1781. and Brahms. 5. 4. Weimar also is famous in the history of Germany. Attending a concert by this great orchestra is a special treat. 2. The Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera) is one of Germany’s most acclaimed opera companies. Ticket prices for opera and ballet range from 9€ to 60€ ($11–$75). is one of Germany’s greatest cultural shrines. Leipzig’s main theater. Its home is the Opernhaus. or 24). Stalls (open daily 10 a. Tram: 4. walk down Barfüssergässchen. is the hippest bar and cafe in Leipzig. a 1. is home to several arts companies that stage a mix of theatrical and musical productions in German. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 45€ ($13–$56). and composers made their homes in this small Thuringian town on the River Ilm. Tram: 4. Augustusplatz (% 0341/127-0280. 13. beginning around 8 p. which honors Goethe and the Faust legend. Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment Beautiful Weimar (vie-mar). or spent portions of their creative lives here.m. 5. Schubert. Mendelssohn. Leipzig. Mephisto Bar. cafes. lived and worked in Weimar for 50 years. Tram: 1.) sell a variety of craft items and Christmas food and drink. from opera and classical concerts to late-night bars and discos. Some of the country’s most revered painters. and other entertainment options. is the home of the world-famous Gewandhaus Special organ concerts and performances of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and Handel’s Messiah also take place. the Schauspielhaus. and Weimar 233 1767. just south of the Altes Rathaus.m. Discovering nightlife in Leipzig Leipzig’s active nightlife offers something for everyone. Goethe. 21. 12.m. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 30€ ($12–$37). The area around the Markt is full of bars. 13. considered Germany’s greatest literary genius. because the first Bauhaus School of Art and Design was founded . http://oper-leipzig. For a sampling of lively cafes. Live music is performed Thursday through Saturday.Chapter 14: Dresden.

m. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. the Nazis established the concentration camp Buchenwald on the outskirts of this city. you may want to spend the night. The tourist offices listed earlier under “Finding information and taking a tour” also can help you find a hotel room or pension.. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. The meeting point is the tourist information office.m. Weimar is a joy to explore. Good train connections to Weimar’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) are available from anywhere in Germany. Buy tickets at the tourist office.m. Markt 10 (% 03643/7450. and Weimar is a stop on the InterRegio express train between Frankfurt and Berlin. call % 11861 or visit the Deutsche Bahn Web site (www. Fast InterCity Express (ICE) trains run from Frankfurt. and 2 p. 118km (74 miles) southwest of Leipzig.234 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany here in 1919. The elegant late-17th-century facade.m. By car. Tolstoy. and 215km (134 miles) southwest of Dresden. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$$ –$$$$ City Center The Hotel Elephant is Weimar’s most famous hotel. Staying in Weimar Since reunification. Finding information and taking a tour Tourist-Information am Markt. to 3 p. Weimar is an easy daytrip from Leipzig or Dresden. is available free.50) for adults. often in historic buildings.m.bahn. new hotels have opened throughout Weimar. hides a stylishly . with a past guest roster that includes Bach. During WWII. children younger than 14 free. de). Weimar was not completely destroyed by bombs in WWII. 4€ ($5) for students. you can reach Weimar via the A4 Autobahn linking Frankfurt and Dresden. in the town’s central marketplace. For rail information and schedules. Unlike Dresden and Leipzig. to 6 p.weimar. the price is 6€ ($7. fronting Weimar’s picturesque marketplace. www. but because Weimar offers plenty to see. or the A9 Autobahn between Berlin and Munich. even Hitler. the local entertainment listings magazine. Getting there Weimar lies 262km (162 miles) southwest of Berlin. and Dresden. The tourist office offers a two-hour walking tour (in German) of Weimar daily at 10 a. Takt. in part because its old winding streets are sprinkled with the homes (now museums) of famous figures. Enough of old Weimar remains to give you a good sense of what the town was like when Goethe lived there. Leipzig. turning off at Hermsdorfer Kreuz for

To Train Station 1 0 0 1/10 mile 100 meters Jakobstraß e knech tstrass e N s aer Str a s Jen K. e 10 ng Bauhaus Universität Weimar 11 PARK K A R AN D E R ILM str. Information i ATTRACTIONS Bauhaus-Museum 3 Goethes Gartenhaus 10 Goethes Wohnhaus & Goethe Nationalmuseum 9 Liszt-Haus 11 Schillers Wohnhaus 6 Schloss Belvedere 12 Schlossmuseum 2 Weimar Haus– Das Geschichtserlebnis 4 Wittumspalais 5 de A rer e lle . Breitsc heidstr. and Weimar 235 Weimar F. Be lv e R. 2 Erf urt er Str ass Nationaltheater e 3 Theater. 8 8 Demokratie or n Am H instr. tst old Ama nech t ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Hotel Kaiserin Augusta 1 DINING Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Zum Schwarzen Bären 7 Haus k rastr Coud Fr. Peter und Paul HerderEisfeld sse lKege e c rü B k asse Eng els Ri Leibn izalle e Sch il r a s se Puschk Stub enst rass 9 Pl. Leipzig. 12 Berlin GERMANY Weimar liens CEMETERY Goethe-Schiller Mausoleum Str.- Goetheplatz Graben Karlstra Stadtkirche St. d.-F W rell ag igra ne th str. mb Hu r.Chapter 14: Dresden. rg as se Brüh l WEIMARHALLENPARK To Buchenwald Frieden str. Lieb Schwa nseestr Rollplatz asse Johannis kirche e e-stras se H -He i n platz s -g .4 Deutsches platz 5 M ar le rst 6 LucasRathaus i Markt CranachHaus 7 se k t stras Sc h Burgplatz Stern Brück e Ilm l os Sch ube rtstr asse Ilm Acker-w Ma rien trass e and Corona-Schroter Str.

. and 6–11 p. See map p. DC. Carl-August-Allee 17.m. most have a tub/shower combination. % 03643/8020. Bus: 10. some new restaurants with savvier cooking and better ingredients have opened. or 71. make use of local produce and ingredients. a dress-up sort of place with beautifully set tables. 235.. Dining in Weimar As with Leipzig.m. MC. Bathrooms are small and have showers only. a garden terrace. Elephantenkeller Thurs–Tues noon to 3 a. but they are fully equipped. Rates include buffet breakfast. DC. among the best in the region. Bus: 10. Rates: 169€–235€ ($211–$293) double. 99423 Weimar.m. convenient. and the buffet breakfast is good. The 99 rooms come in different sizes but are furnished basically the same. The staff is friendly. 11. when Weimar’s famous Zwiebelmarkt (onion market) is open (a tradition dating back to 1653). www. and good service. % 03643/802-639. Its Italian dishes. The 134 rooms are not large or luxurious. Weimar is not a city renowned for its culinary past. In October. Bathrooms are large. Otherwise. Reservations recommended. AE. 235. this restaurant serves specialty onion salads. Main courses: Anna Amalia 16€–26($20–$32). moderately priced hotel sits right across the street from the train station. Fax: 03643/234444. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$ –$$$ GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Weimar’s oldest hotel has two restaurants. and very well maintained. Elephantenkeller 6€–16€ ($7–$20).hotel-kaiserin-augusta. arabellasheraton. 235.236 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany contemporary interior. Anna Amalia is modern and airy. or 71. www. V. MC. Open: Anna Amalia daily 6:30–10:30 p. a place for casual dining in a rustic atmosphere. Fax: 03643/802-610. try local specialties such as sweet-and-sour Thuringian pot roast with dumplings or Thuringian-style grilled bratwurst on sauerkraut with puréed peas. V. V. comfortable. Am Markt 19. See map Down one flight of steps is the historic Elephantenkeller (Elephant Cellar). Hotel Kaiserin Augusta $ –$$ City Center This good. % 03643/2340. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. 99423 Weimar. Breakfast costs an additional 18€ ($ 22). Since reunification. MC. Rates: 77€–139€ ($96–$174) double. Am Markt 19. See map p. 11. however. with pearwood furniture and Art Deco styling.

Chapter 14: Dresden. V. Main courses: 7€–15€ ($9–$19). 235. 2. Admission: 4. which brought a new. Bus: 10. Surrounding the Altstadt is the newer Weimar.m. and pork medallions with Gorgonzola sauce. Duchess Anna Amalia. Zum Schwarzen Bären $ THURINGIAN Located next door to the Hotel Elephant. Exploring Weimar Weimar enjoys a scenic location on the Ilm River. hefty meal for a reasonable cost. all of which you can easily see on foot. classically inspired rationalism to German art and literature. or 71. Goethe’s fame rested on the novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. with broad. In Weimar. this restaurant is Weimar’s oldest.m. set the tone for the salons. wanted to surround himself with clever. See map p. tea sets. rumpsteak. the architect Walter Gropius. Nothing is fancy about it. the town’s main square. architectural drawings. particularly the playwright Friedrich Schiller. Open: Daily 11 a. 5. Goethe’s patron. set against the backdrop of the Ettersberg and Vogtland hills. and Weimar 237 Goethe and the court of Weimar In 1775. Theaterplatz. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832) was invited to the duchy of Weimar by the teenaged Duke Karl August. Open: Daily 10 a. the work for which he is most famous. The Altstadt (Old City). Duke Karl. MC. Dishes include potato soup with sausage. schnitzel with potatoes.m. Bus: 1.50€ ($4. which had become a sensation throughout Europe for its depiction of a suffering. with its large park. His mother. 11. an important architect-designer of Art Nouveau. % 03643/564-161. See map p.50€ ($5. treelined boulevards and many 19th-century buildings. and toys collected by the school’s director. 6. suicidal artist. which was founded in Weimar in 1919 and sought to unify arts and crafts within the context of architecture. . has many historic sights. but you can get a good.50) adults. The collection of Bauhaus memorabilia includes rugs. furniture. or 7. to midnight. Markt 20. % 03643/853-847. remains the lively heart of the old city. entertaining people. so you can see everything in about half an hour.–6 p. which were referred to as the “Court of the Muses. 235. 3. The museum is fairly compact. Leipzig.” Thanks to Goethe and his friends.50) seniors and students. Markt. One room showcases the work of Henry van de Velde. Bauhaus-Museum The focus of this museum is the Bauhaus movement. Goethe wrote the play Faust. the little duchy of Weimar gained renown as a center of the German Enlightenment (Erklärung). 3.

Bus: 1.m.50€ ($8) adults. See map p. Open: House and museum daily 9 a. When Goethe returned from Italy. Open: Daily 10 a.–6 p. and designed special cabinets to display his Italian majolica plates. an audio guide in English is available. Admission: House and museum 6.40) adults. The house has 14 rooms. filled the house with casts of ancient busts and statues. 1832.. and his reception room a calming blue. The structure was built as a garden house in the 16th century. Throughout his life. The house is . Admission: 2. but the museum requires a separate admission. longer if you’re a Goethe fan. you find more Goethe memorabilia. 2. Tours (in German): Tues and Fri at 1 p. Letters and other personal and musical mementos also are on view. Liszt gathered young musicians around him in the high-ceilinged.–6 p. and reconstructed in 1996 according to the plans of 1820. in less than 15 minutes. % 03643/545-375. the Hungarian composer and most famous pianist of the 19th century. when he was 82 years old.50€ ($3) students and children. Goethe used the house as a summer retreat. or 8. his study a soothing green. Bus: 1. overflowing with enthusiasm for all things Italian. Liszt-Haus Franz Liszt. Goethe died in his sparsely furnished bedchamber on March 22. spent the last period of his life in this house located at the west entrance of Park an der Ilm.50€ ($4. was Goethe’s first residence when he came to Weimar in 1775 as a guest of Duke Karl August. % 03643/545-388. some of them pretty much as Goethe and his wife. or 12. 235. Bus: 1.m.m. Im Park an der Ilm. Displayed in the redcarpeted salon are one of Liszt’s pianos and the portable clavichord he used to exercise his fingers while he was traveling. Christiane.25) students and seniors. % 03643/545-320. 5. Goethe had his dining room painted a sunny yellow. left them. 2. You can see the interior. he replaced the baroque staircase with broad stairs in the style of the Italian Renaissance. Admission: 3.m. Frauenplan 1. located just up the street from Goethe’s house. He lived with his family in this house. which has a few pieces of period furniture. located in the bucolic park on the Ilm River. enlarged in the 17th century. In the museum.50€ ($3) adults. 5€ ($6.m. See map p. handsomely furnished rooms.m. Open: Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a.50€ ($3). from 1802 to 1805. 235.m. 10. 2€ ($2. Schillers Wohnhaus (Schiller House) After his friend Goethe. 235. Believing that colors affect mood.50) students and children younger than 12. Marienstrasse 17.–6 p.238 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Goethes Gartenhaus (Goethe’s Garden House) This simple stone cottage with a high-pitched roof. 10. 2. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe House) and Goethe Nationalmuseum The large baroque house where Goethe lived from 1782 to 1832 is Weimar’s most popular attraction. The house is part of the adjoined Goethe National Museum. 6. See map p. or 12. Friedrich von Schiller (1759–1805) is the greatest name in German literature. You need about half an hour to see everything.

25) students. and expressionist paintings by Max Beckmann and Max Lieberman. See map p. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. Schiller.m. 3€ ($3.–6 p..50) adults. 1€ ($1. The orangerie displays a collection of historical coaches. theater sets.50) adults. 235. winter 10 a. The English-style park was laid out between 1814 and 1840..m. Bus: 1. 2. Schillerstrasse 16–18. Weimar Haus–Das Geschichtserlebnis (Weimar House–The Weimar Story) This multimedia attraction provides a basic introduction to Weimar’s history.–4 p.m.25) adults. and videotaped projections help tell Weimar’s story from the earliest settlers in 3. Leipzig. Of more general interest are the painting galleries containing important works by Lucas Cranach the Elder (including a portrait of Martin Luther). Belvedere Palace was a favorite retreat of Duchess Anna Amalia and her son’s “enlightened” Weimar court. 4.m.–6 p.m.m. Admission: 3. you find a collection of decorative art from the rococo period. or 8. including Wilhelm Tell (William Tell). 2. Tours (in German): Mon 1 p. 2.10) seniors.000 B.m. The museum has a series of galleries dedicated to Schiller. % 03643/901-890. Wax figures created by artists who worked for London’s Madame Tussaud. and Weimar 239 furnished as it would have been in Schiller’s day. Schillerstrasse 12. Nov–Mar 10 a. Nov–Mar 9 a.75) children. Bus: 12.Chapter 14: Dresden.50€ ($2) children.C. 5.m.–7 p.m. Admission: 6. Bus: 1. 5. Admission: 5€ ($6.m. begun in 1789 and completed in 1803.–4 p. audio guides in English are available. 4€ ($6) children. 3. Flemish and Italian paintings. Luther.50€ ($7) seniors. 7.–4 p. Admission: Palace 4€ ($5) adults. through the time of Goethe. and children. See map p. 235.m. 6. You can visit both in about two hours. replaced the royal castle that burned down in 1774. summer 10 a. 5.m. Schloss Belvedere (Belvedere Palace) A pretty. baroque château located 3km (2 miles) south of Weimar.50€ ($3).m.m. Schlossmuseum (Castle Museum) This neoclassical structure. and other famous names associated with Weimar.–6 p. In the attic rooms. Give yourself about 45 minutes to wander through the galleries.. % 03643/545-350. Open: Palace Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. 235. 8. % 03643/546-160. or 10.m. .50€ ($3. and Napoleon. 3.–6 p. or 6. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. Orangerie 2€ ($2.50€ ($8) adults. Open: Daily. Inside the château. Orangerie Jan–Apr Wed–Sun 11 a. 235. Belvederer Allee.50€ ($4. Bus: 1.m. Burgplatz 4. See map p. 2. % 03643/546-162. See map p. You can wander through the entire house in about 15 minutes. 6. students. Schiller wrote his last works.. 1. Goethe. Open: Wed–Mon Apr–Oct 9 a.. 5.m.

6 marked “Buchenwald.–4 p. in beech woods (Buchenwald) where Goethe and Schiller once walked.m. Between 1945 and 1951. 2. 3€ ($3. 4. 235. spruce-clad mountains rise to about 985m (3. take Bus No. Erfurt. or 6. and dozens of picturesque medieval villages dot the narrow. 5. a lively university town south of Arnstadt. At least 56. Exploring the Thuringian Forest Weimar sits in the northeastern corner of the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest). Gypsies. Theaterplatz.225 ft. one of the great cities of German art and culture. the “Widow’s Palace” was the residence of the widowed Dowager Duchess Anna Amalia. Army in 1945. and costumes. Nov–Mar 10 a. a 110km (68-mile) .” Wittumspalais A short walk along Schillerstrasse from the Schiller House leads to the elegant Wittumspalais (vit-ooms-pa-lay).m. to 6 p.000 people died at Buchenwald. and others in this work camp from 1937 until the camp’s liberation by the U. Admission: 4€ ($5. representing victims of fascism. See map p. once the home of Johann Sebastian Bach.240 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Buchenwald: Remembering the past About 10km (6 miles) from Weimar.S. prisoners of war. Later. political prisoners. You can visit Buchenwald May through September. the Nazis set up one of their nightmare concentration camps.25) adults. The house. Tuesday to Sunday from 8:45 a. Tuesday to Sunday from 9:45 a.m. doctors.m. poets. The museum reflects both the Soviet and the Nazi past of the camp. If you want to explore this picturesque area by car. and many thousands of others were sent from here to death camps in the east. old castles crown the tops of hills.m. honors the people from 32 nations who lost their lives at Buchenwald. has an extensive collection of paintings. Slavs. which leads to places associated with the great poet. 6 from Weimar’s main train station makes the trip northwest of town to Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial. % 03643/545-377. and art.” where artists.m. To reach the memorial. 3. thought. 22km (14 miles) west of Weimar. Soviet occupation forces also used the site as an internment camp.m. % 03643/4300). The Nazis confined about a quarter of a million Jews. to 5 p.75) students and children. Ilmenau. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. the site of the camp. devoted to mementos of the German Enlightenment. is the starting point of a popular hiking trail known as Auf Goethes Spuren (In Goethe’s Footsteps). A memorial with a cluster of “larger than life” people. and philosophers met to discuss issues of science. Bus No. Within the forest. Bus: 1.).m. who presided over a “Court of the Muses. winding roads.– 6 p. long extolled by nature lovers for its scenic beauty. homosexuals. Completed in 1767.. Just south of Erfurt is picturesque Arnstadt. silhouettes (all the rage back then). the Soviets sent thousands of prisoners here to die. Admission is free. October through April.. is the oldest town in the region and the capital of Thuringia.

(This building is also where. Kaufenstrasse 7 (% 03643/402-567). and furniture that survived the devastation of WWII. Shopping in Weimar A visit to Weimar’s antiques stores offers a chance to buy porcelain. selling books only. and concerts at the tourist information centers or the theater box office. Leipzig. prices range from 8€ to 35€ ($10–$37). and Weimar 241 scenic road called the Thuringer Hochstrasse (Thuringian High Road) runs from Eisenach to Ilmenau. Kaiser Antikitäten. dance. The most interesting shops include Antikitäten am Palais. and Thiersch Antikitäten.) You can buy tickets for opera. Bräuhausgasse 15 (% 03643/402-540). in 1919. and its immediate neighbor. Schillerstrasse 22 (same phone). where Franz Liszt and Richard Strauss once conducted. the National Congress passed the new democratic constitution that was the basis for the short-lived Weimar Republic. Goethe-Antiquariat. . Schillerstrasse 22 (% 03643/59625).Chapter 14: Dresden. Weimar’s bars and outdoor cafes are good places to drink and talk into the night. Also appealing are Antikitäten am Schloss. Theaterplatz (% 03643/755-334). Obereschlossgasse 2 (% 03643/512-993). silver. Discovering nightlife in Weimar Weimar’s main performance venue is the Deutsches Nationaltheater (German National Theater). You find a good selection to choose from along Schillerstrasse and around Theaterplatz. crystal.

242 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .

Part IV Southern and Western Germany .

. famed for its woodcarvers. bucolic scenery. Easy day trips from Cologne include the wine-growing regions of the Mosel Valley and the Rheingau section of the Rhine Valley. and what to see. Germany’s most famous walled medieval city. the sophisticated city with the huge international airport that is the German port of entry for many international visitors. Going beyond Munich. the romantic town on the Neckar River. Chapter 19 is all about Cologne (Köln in German). Chapter 18 covers three cities in western and central Germany: Heidelberg. the beautiful capital of Bavaria. one of the most scenically delightful areas in all of Deutschland. You find everything you need to know about Germany’s secret capital: how to get there and get around. and Neuschwanstein. an ideal driving tour loaded with unspoiled medieval towns. in Chapter 16. the most dramatic of Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castles. Chapter 20 is all about Frankfurt. . I devote Chapter 15 entirely to Munich. . a lively city on the Rhine famous for its spectacular Gothic cathedral. and Nuremberg (Nürnberg in German). or Black Forest. Stuttgart. and must-see attractions such as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. the cultural capital of southwest Germany. including the Romantic Road. S In this part . known as the Bodensee in Germany. I describe additional sightseeing possibilities in Bavaria. as you discover in this part.outhern Germany is different from other regions in Germany. I also tell you about visiting the alpine resort towns of GarmischPartenkirchen and Oberammergau. how to find a fine hotel or restaurant. home to the cities of Freiburg and Baden-Baden. In Chapter 17. Western Germany includes the popular and populous Rhineland region and many famous cities that are easy to reach and fun to explore. In case you’re eager to ride the Rhine. I tell you about boat trips through the river’s most scenic stretches. I highlight lovely Lake Constance. and the Schwarzwald. with its picturesque corners and Gothic churches.

masked balls. and revelry. a whirl of colorful parades. people gather in the giant beer halls and beer gardens to quaff liters of beer. which attracts some 7 million revelers. Munich also is a rich. . palaces. the city goes into party mode again and celebrates Fasching (Carnival). sunny day or a balmy night and you see people sitting outside. in German). with an unparalleled array of artistic and cultural treasures. pronounced Mewn-shin. Walk through the Altstadt (Old Town) on a warm. sophisticated city. from January through February.Chapter 15 Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Munich ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Discovering the top attractions ᮣ Shopping for fashions. Oktoberfest. food. elegant. Munich offers so much to visitors that I recommend you give yourself at least three days here. in every square. drinking. and enjoying life. the capital of Bavaria. concert halls. If you believe the polls. The city is all about prosperity and good-natured Gemütlichkeit. one of those hard-to-translate words that means something like cozy and/or good-natured. and theaters are part and parcel of life in the Bavarian capital. Oom-pah-pah aside. Before Lent. World-class museums. is a town that likes to celebrate. Think of Gemütlichkeit as a kind of cozy charm and you’ll get the picture. Throughout the year. eating. and have a good time.5 million people who live in Munich — think of the city as Germany’s secret capital. Munich is the Germans’ first choice as a desirable place to live. and more ᮣ Enjoying Munich’s nightlife M unich (München. listen to the oom-pah-pah bands. starts in September and lasts for 16 days. Many Germans — especially the 1.

25) for children. on Bahnhofplatz near the city center. German for “monk. so you can fly there directly from the United States. 1.m. less frequently through the night. shopping. Munich’s coat of arms has included a figure of the Münchner Kindl. . A taxi to the city center costs about 70€ ($87) and can take more than an hour if traffic is heavy. www. By train You can easily reach Munich by train from any city in Germany or Europe. The S-8 S-Bahn (% 089/4142-4344) train connects the airport with the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in downtown Munich. Connected to the rail station are the city’s extensive S-Bahn rapid-transit system and the U-Bahn (subway) open daily from 7 a.246 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The little monk of Munich In the ninth century. and 10:42 a.m. you can also call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail. to 7:50 p. a small village located near a Benedictine abbey on the river Isar called itself Mönch.m.m.40€ ($10) adults.bahn. Munich’s is located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. to 8 p.. is one of Europe’s largest train stations. By plane Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss International Airport (% 089/9752-1313. You find a train information office on the mezzanine level.. Like Frankfurt.m. The Lufthansa Airport Bus (% 089/323-040) also runs between the airport and the main train station in Munich every 20 minutes from 5:10 a.10€ ($1.” Since that time. with a hotel. restaurants.50) children. Opened in 1992. 5€ ($6. Munich has an international airport. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. The fare for the 40-minute trip is 8. % 11861 for train information and schedules [an English speaker will be available to help you]. Daily trains arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 33⁄4 hours) and Berlin (trip time: 7 hours).” Getting There As one of Germany’s major cities. www. the airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world. The city is easily accessible from anywhere within Germany or Europe. or “little monk.munich-airport. Munich has no lack of transportation options.m. and banking facilities. Trains leave from the S-Bahn platform beneath the airport every 20 minutes daily between 4:02 a.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


By car
I do not recommend driving in Munich. Most of downtown is a pedestrian-only area — wonderful if you’re a walker, a nightmare if you’re a driver. Traffic jams are frequent, and parking spaces are elusive and costly. If you plan on making excursions into the countryside, renting a car in the city center instead of trekking out to the airport is more convenient. Car-rental companies with windows at the main train station include Avis (% 089/1260-000), Hertz (% 089/1295-001), and Sixt Autovermietung (% 089/550-2447).

Finding Information After You Arrive
Munich’s tourist office, Fremdenverkehrsamt München (% 089/23396500;, operates a tourist information center in the main train station (Bahnhofplatz 2, adjacent to the DER Reisebüro/ German Rail Travel Office). You can pick up a map of Munich, get information on cultural events, and book a hotel room. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. You find another branch of the tourist office in the city center at Marienplatz in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); hours are Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can make a hotel reservation online or at the main tourist office.

Orienting Yourself in Munich
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is an oval-shaped pedestrian-only district on the west bank of the Isar River. (See the “Munich Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.) Munich’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) lies just west of the Altstadt. Marienplatz, the Altstadt’s most important square, is where you find several important churches, the Residenz (former royal palace), the National Theater, and the Viktualienmarkt, a wonderfully lively outdoor market. Between Marienplatz and the National Theater is the Platzl quarter, famed for its nightlife, restaurants, and the landmark Hofbräuhaus, the most famous beer hall in the world. Odeonsplatz, to the north of Marienplatz, is Munich’s most beautiful square. Running west from Odeonsplatz is Briennerstrasse, a wide shopping avenue that leads to Königsplatz (King’s Square). Flanking this large square, in an area known as the Museum Quarter, are three neoclassical buildings constructed by Ludwig I and housing Munich’s antiquities: the Propyläen, the Glyptothek, and the Antikensammlungen. Another triad of world-famous art museums — the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Masters Gallery), and the Pinakothek Moderne Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art) — also lie in the Museum Quarter, just northeast of Königsplatz.

248 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Munich Neighborhoods


B304 B2R










Nym phe nbu rger






Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt
am Main


e est










ST2343 B2R








Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





To Airport & Studentenstadt NORDU

0 0

0.5 mi 0.5 km





B11 B2R

Church S-Bahn U-Bahn



isshei merst r.





S c h le

See “Central Munich” maps


MAX- UniversitätU VORSTADT







strOdeons. platz
atin e str. rU


Königsnigsplatz Brie n











U Ne u ha u


Ma Platz Marien- ximilian LEHEL stra sersse platz PLATZL str. Kaufingerstr. U Maximiliansbrücke S


Karlsplatz (Stachus)





Gärtner- platz platz Ludwigsbrücke














Hellabrunn Tierpark (Zoo)


250 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Ludwigstrasse connects the Altstadt with Schwabing, a former artists’ quarter located north of the Altstadt and known for its cafes, restaurants, and nightlife. Olympiapark, site of the 1972 Olympics, is northwest of Schwabing. The sprawling park known as the Englischer Garten is located east of Schwabing. East of the Isar River lie Bogenhausen and Haidhausen, leafy neighborhoods just outside the city center where you find some hotels and restaurants. Theresienwiese, site of the annual Oktoberfest, and Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace), one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces, are both located west of the Altstadt.

Getting Around Munich
Munich is a large city, only slightly smaller than Berlin or Hamburg. The best way to explore is by walking and using the excellent publictransportation system. Subways (U-Bahn), trams (Strassenbahn), buses, and light-rail lines (S-Bahn) make getting anywhere in the city easy. In the Altstadt, you can walk to all the attractions — in fact, you have to, because the Altstadt is a car-free zone. For information, call the publictransportation authority, MVV, at % 089/4142-4344, or visit it on the Web at

Using public transportation
You’ll probably use the underground U-Bahn (subway) and the aboveground Strassenbahn (tram) systems most frequently. The same ticket entitles you to ride U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses. Purchase tickets from vending machines marked Fahrkarten in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations; the machines display instructions in English. You also can buy tickets in the tram or from a bus driver. Tickets must then be validated in the machines found on platforms and in buses and trams; stick your ticket into the machine, which stamps it with the date and time. A validated ticket is valid for two hours. You can transfer as often as you like to any public transportation as long as you travel in the same direction. Munich has four concentric fare zones. Most, if not all, of your sightseeing will take place in Zone 1, which includes the city center. A single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) in Zone 1 costs 2.20€ ($2.75). The München Welcome Card, available at either Fremdenverkehrsamt München tourist information center, lets you ride all public transportation and offers discounts of up to 50 percent off on major tourist attractions and city tours. A tageskarte (day ticket) good for a day of travel within the city limits costs 6.50€ ($8) for adults, 2.30€ ($3) for children 6 to 14. A 3-tageskarte (three-day ticket) costs 12€ ($15). A partner 3-tageskarte, a three-day ticket good for two people traveling together, costs 20€ ($25). You can buy these cards from the ticket vending machines or at station ticket windows.

Pulling Flughafen Besucherpark Hallbergmoos Ismaning

Altomünster Freising

S2 S1 U6
Am Hart Unterföhring Frankfurter Ring


Flughafen München

S1 S8


Vierkirchen– Esterhofen Unterschleißheim Neufahrn



Röhrmoos Oberschleißheim

L o hh of Ec hin g




Hasen- Dülferbergl straße

Markt Indersdorf



Altenerding Aufhausen


Niederroth Bachern







Dachau Stadt



Garching-Hochbrück Fröttmaning Kieferngarten Freimann Studentenstadt Alte Heide Nordfriedhof Dietlindenstraße

St. Kolomann

















Olympia- MilbertsJohanneskirchen hofen zentrum Bonner Scheidplatz Platz U4 (under U3 Arabellapark construction) PetuelEnglschalking Hohenzollern- Münchner Freiheit Richard-Strauss-Straße ring platz Westfriedhof Giselastraße Böhmerwaldplatz Josephsplatz Gern StiglTheresienUniversität Daglfing Prinzregentenplatz maierstraße U7 MaillingerMax-Weber-Platz platz straße KönigsplatzOdeonsplatz




Aubing Leienfelsstraße Westkreuz





Friedenheimer Straße


Harthaus Germering-Unterpfaffenhofen Gräfelfing Buchenau GeisenPlanegg brunn

GilchingSchön- Argelsried geising







Starnberg Nord

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn






Ostbahnhof Trudering Kreillerstraße HackerMarienplatz U2 Kolumbus- UntersbergGronsdorf Heimeran-brücke T Hauptbahnhof Josephsburg St-Martin-Straße straße platz U7 U4 platz w he ie re Haar U5 s s Innsbrucker Ring Sendlinger Laimer Westend- Schwanthaler- e ien Silberhorn- Giesing Karl-Preis-Platz FraunhoferLochham Platz Michaelibad höhe straße Tor straße straße Vaterstetten Westpark Harras Quiddestraße HolzapfelCandidplatz U8 Neuperlach Zentrum Im Po G kreuth PartnachBaldham oe WettersteinPerlach p c Mittersendling Br platz c Fasangarten l Haderner platz ud ers istr the Stern U5 Therese-Giehse-Allee Aidenbachstraße Obersendling tr Zorneding er aß aße pla Fasanenpark m tz Neubiberg üh e Neuperlach Machtlfinger Siemens- Thalkirchen St.-Quirin-Platz (Zoo) lst Großhadern Gro hadern Ottobrunn Süd Straße Stra Unterhaching Eglharting werke ra Forstenrieder U1 MangfallHohenbrunn ße platz Solln Allee Taufkirchen Klinikum Wächterhof Kirchseeon Großhadern Basler Straße Großhesselohe Isartalbf HöhenkirchenFurth Fürstenried Siegertsbrunn Pullach U6 West S27 Grafing Bahnhof Deisenhofen Höllriegelskreuth Dürrnhaar U3 Starnberg Buchenhain S20 Aying Sauerlach Baierbrunn Grafing Stadt Possenhofen Hohenschäftlarn Peiß Otterfing Ebenhausen-Schäftlarn Feldafing Ebersberg Großhelfendorf Icking S7 Wolfratshausen S2 Holzkirchen S7 S5 Tutzing Kreuzstraße

Mo os f Me eld W sses es ta dt Me t Os sses t tad t-



Donnersbergerbrücke br cke


Karlsplatz (Stachus)

Lehel Rosenheimer Isartor Platz

S4 S1

Ottenhofen Markt Schwaben Poing Grub Heimstetten Feldkirchen LeuchtenbergBerg am ring Riem Laim

252 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Catching a cab
Taxis are cream-colored, plentiful, and expensive. You can get a taxi at one of the stands located all across the city, or you can hail a cab on the street if its rooftop light is illuminated. Taxi fares begin at 2.70€ ($3.50); each additional kilometer costs 1.25€ to 1.60€ ($1.60–$2), depending on the distance; there’s an additional 1€ ($1.25) to order a taxi by phone. Call Taxizentrale at % 089/21610 for a radio-dispatched taxi.

Staying in Style
Hotels in Munich are more expensive than elsewhere in Germany, and rooms are scarce (and prices much higher) during Oktoberfest and when trade fairs are in town. I strongly recommend that you book your Munich hotel room in advance. I’ve weighted my choices toward hotels in central Munich. The highest prices in this section are for rooms during Oktoberfest and trade fairs. The Fremdenverkehrsamt (tourist office) in the main train station (see the “Finding Information After You Arrive” section earlier in this chapter) can book a room for you and give you a map with instructions for reaching it. The service is free, but the office collects a 10 percent deposit of the total value of the room; the hotel then deducts this amount from your bill. For locations, see the “Central Munich Accommodations and Dining” map in this chapter.

The top hotels
Here you can find a variety of great hotels. See also the listing for the outstanding Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München ($$$$) in Chapter 22.

Advokat Hotel
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt
You don’t find frills or froufrou in this streamlined 50-room hotel in a 1930s apartment building. The Advokat is strictly minimalist in approach and has an understated elegance. The rooms are medium-sized, with clean, simple furnishings. Each room comes with a compact bathroom, most with tub and shower. See map p. 254. Baaderstrasse 1, 80469 München. % 089/21-63-10. Fax: 089/216-3190. S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk south on Zweibrücken Strasse and west on Baaderstrasse). Rates: 155€–275€ ($194–$344) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit An der Oper
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt


This five-story hotel, dating from 1969, is wonderfully situated for sightseeing and shopping in the Altstadt. The décor is basic modern without being particularly distinguished. The 68 rooms are on the small side but have double-glazed windows and a small sitting area. The bathrooms are small, too, and come with a shower. See map p. 254. Falkenturmstrasse 11 (just off Maximilianstrasse, near Marienplatz), 80331 München. % 089/290-0270. Fax: 089/2900-2729. www.hotelanderoper. com. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater stop (then a 5-minute walk south on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Falkenturmstrasse). Rates: 150€–235€ ($187–$294) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

$$ –$$$$ Near Train Station
If you want a nice place right across the street from the train station, this is the best. From the outside, this large hotel looks a bit austere, but the interior has been redone with a pleasantly modern look. Most of the 211 rooms are fairly large, and all are decorated in a comfortable, unobtrusive style. Bathrooms are larger than average, with tub and shower. One child younger than age 6 is allowed to stay free in a parent’s room; for an additional child, an extra bed can be rented for 42€ ($52). See map p. 254. Arnulfstrasse 4, 80335 München. % 089/551-150. Fax: 089/5511-5555. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is opposite the north side of the train station). Rates: 139€–282€ ($174–$352) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gästehaus Englischer Garten
$ –$$$ Schwabing
This 25-room guesthouse near the Englischer Garten is quiet, charming, and an excellent value. The rooms are small to medium in size and decorated with a homey mixture of antiques, old-fashioned beds, and Oriental rugs. The bathrooms are small, with showers only. You can save a few euros by renting one of the six rooms that share bathrooms. In an annex across the street are 15 small apartments, each with a bathroom and a kitchenette. Breakfast costs an extra 9€ ($11); on nice mornings, you can eat outside in the back garden. See map p. 254. Liebergesellstrasse 8, 80802 München-Schwabing. % 089/383-9410. Fax: 089/3839-4133. U-Bahn: Münchener Freiheit (then a 10-minute walk east on Haimhäuserstrasse to Erninger Platz and east on Liebergesellstrasse). Rates: 68€–120€ ($85–$150) double without bathroom; 114€–180€ ($142–$225) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

254 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Central Munich Accommodations and Dining
ACCOMMODATIONS Advokat Hotel 37 Am Markt 35 An der Oper 26 Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 13 Eden-Hotel-Wolff 3 Gästehaus Englischer Garten 16 Hotel Bristol München 8 Hotel Exquisit 7 Hotel Jedermann 4 Hotel Mark 10 Hotel Olympic 9 Hotel Opera 41 Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel 44 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München 40 Königshof 11 Königswache 1 Mandarin Oriental 30 München City Hilton 38 Platzl Hotel 33 Splendid-Dollman 43 DINING Alois Dallmayr 23 Augustiner Grossgaststätte 12 Austernkeller 39 Biergarten Chinesischer Turm 18 Boettner 24 Buon Gusto Talamonti 29 Donisl 21 La Galleria 32 Gandl 42 Gasthaus Glockenbach 6 Gaststätte zum Flaucher 36 Georgenhof 15 Hunsinger’s Pacific 14 Hofbräuhaus am Platzl 27 Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom 19 Pfistermühle 33 Prinz Myshkin 20 Ratskeller München 22 Rossi 28 Spatenhaus 25 Tantris 17 Times Square Online Bistro 5 Zum Alten Markt 34
uste nstr
To Olympiapark


Church Information Post Office S-Bahn U-Bahn





ens tras se








U s tras





sheim erstrass


Gab els



stra sse

To Nymphenburg






Arc is

sse Aug uste nstr a


r Str



Meis e









se tras










Ar nu lfstra sse



4 Bayerstrasse


stra sse Bahnhofplatz Prielm aye rstr asse i U Schüt zen str. 5 S U Karlsplatz


Sophienstra s


14 Maximiliansplatz

Maxb Neuh


-Wilhelm-Strasse zog Her


11 10

ausers trasse 12

Sonnenstr. Sonnenstr.
















d en


Ho tte

Deutsches Theater

rst r.



Thalk strass irchnere

strasse MatthäusBeethoven- Nussbaum kirche platz e s s a str urm dw n i L
0 0 0.2 km 0.2 mi














rer A



Bare r
Dachauers trasse






Ma x-Jo sep h-S tras se


Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


Tür ken stra sse





Sch ellin g

Prof.- Vete rinär Huberplatz str.
nstr a sse

Königinstr ass e


Akad 15 emies trasse Ada lber tstra sse

16 17




stras se








Ludw ig

ens tras se



-vo n

ler- Ring -Mil


Von-der -T




K. Scharnagl -R





Odeons- HOFGARTEN platz Hofg U arten strass e

















42 43 41




Th. -W

Max JosephPlatz Nationaltheater 25 24 Am 40 23 Pfis 26 Kosttorters Platz tras 19 se Kau Jüdisches fing erstr 27 Museum asse 22 i 30 21 München 28 32 S U 31 29 39 Marien20 platz Im 33 33 Tal




Cuvilliés Theater
















rege nten s

che Ler



l nf e






ann Stra

Kön igin s

t r a s se







stras se






Knöbelstra sse






Museum für Völkerkunde

ide nm





ilians brück e


m Blu en s tr.
r Co







Ste ins

t schs T h i er

ass e do rfs ar tra sse


st Isartornal platz Ka








e rs

tr a







e Zw ibr
s en ück


a str ze en Kl Fra un ho f 36 erst sse

Mo ras


e üll







en Wi

er S






ad e


a Erh




I tra s a sse r







Ze p



ra sst liu sse

tra sse



Ro se nh eim









er str

Deutsches Museum

as se

256 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hotel Bristol München $ –$$ Altstadt Built around 1960 and renovated in 2002. The 56 rooms are fairly small. % 089/551-9900. request one that faces the courtyard. family-run hotel offers a central location and 55 comfortable rooms. adjoining rooms. 80335 München. 254. See map p. The hotel is attached to the famous Augustiner beer hall and restaurant (see the “Dining Out” section. The hotel serves a generous breakfast buffet. Rates include breakfast. later in this chapter). serene. Fax: 089/ Fax: 089/ 5519-9499. This pleasant. See map p. most with roomy. AE.hotel-jedermann. Fax: 089/ 5999-3994. 80336 München. V. MC. Cheaper rooms with in-room showers but toilets down the hall also are available. The staff here is unusually pleasant and helpful.” and that translates here into affordable. Bathrooms are compact and have MC. % 089/5999-3902. 80336 München. The small bathrooms contain tiled showers. 254.hotel-exquisit. Hotel Jedermann $ –$$$ Near Train Station Jedermann means “everyman. is located on a quiet residential street in the heart of Munich. V. with simple. Rates include breakfast. Rates include buffet breakfast. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 10-minute walk west on Bayerstrasse from south exit). About half of them overlook a pretty garden. www. 254. Hotel Exquisit $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. Pettenkoferstrasse 3. Rates: 170€–250€ ($212–$312) double. this efficient. and you can check your e-mail on the computer in the lobby. The 50 rooms are large and comfortably furnished in an old-fashioned German style. 14 newly redecorated rooms have air-conditioning. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 3-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). Pettenkoferstrasse 2. DC. appealing hotel. www. family-friendly prices (including cribs and cots. V.bristol-munich. % 089/543-240. and babysitting). Rates: 57€–86€ ($71–$107) double without bathroom. Bayerstrasse 95. shower-only bathrooms. Rates: 99€–150€ ($123–$187) double. comfortable furnishings. convenient place to stay in central Munich. . U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 5-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). See map p. 67€–149€ ($84–$186) double with bathroom. Tram: 19 to Herman-Lingg-Strasse (the stop across from the hotel). AE. built in 1988 in the same vicinity as the Hotel Bristol München (see the preceding listing). For a quieter room. www. modern hotel is a congenial.

comfy beds and lots of wood. % 089/416-050. The 25 distinctively decorated rooms have country antiques or a cool. Ismaninger Strasse 42–44. Rooms in the rear on the third and fourth floors are quieter but also smaller than those facing the street. Most of the midsize bathrooms come with shower only. V. See map p. MC. The hotel is a ten-minute walk from Maximilianstrasse and the center of the city. stylish hotel is popular with gay travelers. AE. are white. Fax: 089/ 4160-5466. St. The level of service is See map p. The 38 rooms. 81675 Munich. 80469 München. minimalist. Hotel Opera $$$$ Altstadt An early-20th-century Italianate building with a courtyard and garden houses this small. this hotel has a high-ceilinged lobby and a large wood-paneled breakfast room that retain much of their original late-19th-century detailing. however. Some of the rooms have small balconies. 80538 München. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 5-minute walk north on St. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor. 254.-Anna-Strasse) breakfast room. Fax: 089/ 2318-9199. some face a garden. www. superclassy Mandarin Oriental. 254. Rates: 185€–265€ ($231–$331) double. www. and modern. Mandarin Oriental $$$$ Altstadt The sophisticated. Rates include breakfast. AE. modern look. elegant. and 64 guest rooms nicely decorated in a Bavarianchalet style with big. U-Bahn: Prinzregenten-Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Prinz Regenten Strasse and south on Ismaninger Strasse). 254. Rates: 90€–400€ ($112–$500) double. V. V. Rates include breakfast.-Anna-Strasse 10. The bathrooms have a tub and shower. Rates: 150€–200€ ($187–$250) double.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Hotel Olympic $$ Altstadt 257 Built as a private villa around 1900. www.hotel-opera. The hotel is a short walk from chic Maximilianstrasse and several major attractions. Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel $ –$$$$ Bogenhausen This quietly charming boutique hotel on the east bank of the Isar has a lobby. occupies an ornate 19th-century building that was turned .prinzregent. located in the historic heart of MC. The rooms are fairly large and have good bathrooms. Fax: 089/21040977. MC. % 089/231-890. See map p. and several gay bars and cafes are located nearby. % 089/225-533. then Tram 18 or 20 east to Hans Sachs Strasse. The small. boutique hotel. Rates include buffet breakfast. Hans Sachs Strasse 4. DC. AE.

de. The rooftop terrace provides a view of Munich’s steeples and spires. Neuturmstrasse 1. 80331 München. Each comes with a compact tiled bathroom. See map p. See map p. AE. 80331 München.platzl. but not quite as chichi. 254.mandarinoriental. The Splendid-Dollmann’s owners moved the hotel (formerly located about a block away) to this building in 2003 and completely redid the interior. % 089/237-030.258 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany into a hotel in 1990. many of which share bathrooms. and big marble-tiled bathrooms with tub-shower combinations outfit the 73 rooms and suites. DISC. Fax: 089/ 2370-3800. The staff at this full-service hotel will arrange baby-sitting. MC. If you’re looking for a gulp of old-fashioned Bavarian ambience. No two rooms are the The 167 rooms tend to be small. Sparkassenstrasse 10. Platzl Hotel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Owned by the Ayinger brewery. Fax: 089/224-017. beautifully done boutique hotel. 254. Fax: 089/23808365. for an additional 11€ ($13).Thierschstrasse 49. Runner-up hotels Am Markt $ Altstadt This popular budget hotel centrally located in the Altstadt has small. most with a tub-and-shower combination. You can enjoy breakfast. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. 80538 München. % 089/290-980. DC. See map p. www. 80331 München. Splendid-Dollmann $$ –$$$$ Altstadt A small. % 089/23-80-80. DC. and some are on the small side. Munich’s famous beer hall. Rates: 375€–490€ ($469–$612) double. Rates: 150€–190€ ($167–$237) double. neat rooms. MC. 254.-Anna-Platz to Thierschstrasse). Heiliggeistrasse 6. % 089/225-014. outside on a patio. www. Fax: 089/222-539. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). . fine prints and engravings. See map p. www.hotel inmunich. 254. V. V. www. AE. The hotel has a heated rooftop swimming pool. Rates: 161€–230€ ($201–$281) double. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 3-minute walk east from St. but the overall ambience is hard to beat. this is one of the best choices in Munich. Most of the rooms have terraces with panoramic views of the AE. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (then a 3-minute walk south on Neuturmstrasse). Biedermeier-era (early-19th-century) furnishings. No credit cards. but they’re paneled in chestnut and alderwood and furnished with 19th-century reproduction antiques.splendid-dollmann. V. this reconstructed “medieval” hotel is located across from the Hofbrä MC. DC. Rates include buffet breakfast. the Splendid-Dollman is in the same league as Hotel Opera down the street.

S. small cafes and bistros. soups.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 259 $ $ $ $ Altstadt This full-service luxury hotel dates from 1841 and has individually decorated rooms with large bathrooms. See map p. 254. served everywhere. and beer halls that serve food. the München City Hilton lies on the east bank of the river and features well-designed rooms with nice bathrooms. 80333 Munich. or 089/21200. Fax: 089/523-2114. and moderately priced. ask for Apfelsaftschorle (ap-fell-saft-shor-luh). Fax: 089/212-0906. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus. apple juice mixed with sparkling Karlsplatz 25. Tram: 19. Steinheilstrasse 7. 80333 München. Schweinbraten. Fax: 089/4804-4804. Rosenheimerstrasse 15. U-Bahn: Theresienstrasse. 80336 Mü comfortable rooms with compact tiled bathrooms.or oven-roasted marinated beef). See map p. and Canada or 089/48-040. is Bavaria’s answer to the north’s sauerbraten (pot. 254. Fax: 089/5598-2333. % 089/551-360. % 089/542-7570. a large loaf of sausage eaten with freshly baked pretzels and mustard.koenigswache. If you want a refreshing nonalcoholic drink. % 089/559-820. Homemade dumplings are a specialty. Filling the city are all kinds of fine restaurants. % 800-455-8667 in the U. Inexpensive sausages. plus a health club with pool and sauna. 80335 Munich. See map p. www. . Fax: 089/5513-6113.bayerischerhof. www. Dining Out Munich is a city that loves to eat — and eat big. S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz. 81667 München. Senefelderstrasse 12. Königshof $ $ $ $ Altstadt This famous hotel boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant and has lushly decorated rooms with marble bathrooms. heh. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. % 800-223-6800 in the U. Promenadeplatz 2–6. www. well maintained. 254. Hotel Mark $ –$$ Near the Train Station Although not fancy. and so are all kinds of sausages and Leberkäse. and snacks also are sold from outdoor stalls all around the Viktualienmarkt.S. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. München City Hilton $ $ $ Haidhausen An excellent choice for business travelers and families with children. 254. this 90-room hotel is www. a braised loin of pork served with potato dumplings and rich brown gravy. See map p. Königswache $ $ Near Altstadt This 1960s-era hotel features modern.

Sat 9 a. as is the fish soup. Neuhauser Strasse 27. The house beer. Open: Daily 9 a. but the food is excellent. See map p. in addition to timehonored favorites such as Lobster Thermidor and shrimp grilled in the shell. Main courses: 20€–35€ ($25–$44). Dienerstrasse 14–15. and soups.. % 089/2318-3257. clams. which means that a service charge already has been added. including herring. Augustiner Brau. V.m. scampi. MC. Alois Dallmayr is the most famous delicatessen in Germany. served raw or in dishes such as oysters Rockefeller. Open: Mon–Wed 11:30 a. % 089/298-787. V.m. Menu offerings include fresh fish (salmon in champagne sauce is worth trying). 254. MC.m.m. to midnight. don’t leave the tip on the table. U-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 5-minute walk east on Neuhauser Strasse).” you find the largest selection of oysters in town. A crowd always fills the restaurant at lunchtime.m. Open: Daily 5–11:30 p. 254. which owns the restaurant.–7 p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2-minute walk north on Dienerstrasse). DC. DC. Augustiner Grossgaststätte $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/GERMAN Located on Munich’s main pedestrians-only shopping street. U-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk north on Herrnstrasse and northeast on Stollbergstrasse. The top restaurants Alois Dallmayr $$ –$$$ Altstadt DELICATESSEN/CONTINENTAL In business for almost 300 years. comes from one of Munich’s oldest breweries. The restaurant is a bit pretentious. V. MC. upstairs in the dining room you can order a tempting array of dishes.–4 p.260 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany If a restaurant bill says Bedienung.–8 p. sausages. 254. Stollbergstrasse 11. % 089/213-5100. Main courses: 15€–38€ ($18–$46). and sea snails is a delicious way to start your meal. round up the total to the nearest euro. and one of the most elegant. this famous beer hall and restaurant has cavernous rooms and a genuinely gemütlich atmosphere. AE. fixedprice menus 34€–48€ ($41–$58). Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). If service is not included. See map p.m. Reservations required.m.. AE. mussels.m. smoked fish. Downstairs you can buy fine food products. See map p. Thurs–Fri 11:30 a. The server takes the tip when you pay the bill. Specialties include dumpling soup and roast duck with red cabbage. The shellfish platter with fresh oysters. Austernkeller $$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD At this “oyster cellar. round up the total to the nearest euro and add another euro. .

% 089/296-383. fixed-price lunch 8. An accordion player provides music in the evening. spaghetti carbonara. AE. fixed-price dinner 28€–38€ ($39–$47). In summer you can dine in the garden area out front. Donisl $ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL Munich’s oldest beer hall dates from 1715 and provides diners and drinkers with a relaxed. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 1-minute walk north on Weinstrasse). AE. MC. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). % 089/221-210. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). MC. See map p.–1 a. to midnight. fixed-price menus 25€–36€ ($31–$45). 254.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Boettner $$$$ Altstadt INTERNATIONAL 261 When this century-old restaurant moved to its new location. and seasonal dishes with white truffles. Hochbrückenstrasse 3.50€–28€ ($11–$39). 254. Weisswürste. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. with a French influence. DC. comfortable atmosphere. The cooking is light and refined.m. Try the tris di Pasta (three pastas with vegetables). U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5minute walk north on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). The various risottos (rice dishes) are especially good. it brought its wood-paneled interior with it. The beers come from Munich’s HackerPschorr Brewery. the little white sausages famous in Munich. beef filet. V. See map p.m. Reservations required. AE.m. DC. but at night the booking becomes more traditionally . ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and herbs. 254. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Tal and northeast on Hochbrückenstrasse). The standard menu offers traditional Bavarian food and weekly specials. the lunch menu leans toward Italian. and 6 p. See map p. The atmosphere is light-hearted and fun. DC. Special offerings include herb-crusted lamb. Buon Gusto Talamonti $$ Altstadt TUSCAN/ITALIAN This highly regarded Italian restaurant has two dining areas — a simple bistro overlooking an open kitchen and a more formal dining room — with the same menu items and prices. V. Gandl $$ –$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN/FRENCH At this attractive and lively neighborhood bistro. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. have long been a specialty. Main courses: 17€–42€ ($21–$52). The desserts are sumptuous. but several traditional Bavarian dishes also are on the menu. Pfisterstrasse 9. Reservations recommended. in a 16thcentury building in the heart of Munich. to midnight. Weinstrasse 1. or the roasted lamb with potatoes. pasta with truffles. MC.–3 p.m. Reservations recommended.m. lobster stew in a cream sauce.m. Open: Daily 9 a. V. % 089/29-62-64.

Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). The Italian dishes include homemade pastas.m. Eat on the terrace if the weather’s nice. which is served by the mass equal to about a quart. MC. AE. In the Schwemme (tap room) on the ground floor. 254. The vegetables come from local farms. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. or lamb in red-wine sauce. Main courses: 23€–30€ ($29–$37).m.-Anna Platz 1. See map p. grilled filet of salmon in saffron sauce. U-Bahn: Goetheplatz (then a 10-minute walk south on Lindwurm and east on Kapuzinerstrasse to the corner of Maistrasse). quieter dining rooms. a big courtyard is on this level. too. St. V. sit outside under the chestnut trees. Dinner offerings change often.m. and ravioli. nouvelle French-German-Bavarian cuisine and has earned a Michelin star. The big gourmet salad with various meats and pâtés is delicious. U-Bahn: Universität (then a 10minute walk west on Schelling Strasse and north on Turkenstrasse to the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Georgenstrasse).m. Grilled meats such as lamb and steak are popular. AE. France. but you’ll typically find fare such as entrecote with arugula salad. V. Main courses: 8€–18€ ($10–$22). Closed 1 week at Christmas. The menu offerings change with the seasons and typically include venison and pheasant in autumn and lamb and veal dishes in spring. The beer is Hofbrau. Open: Daily 11 a. See map p.m. and 7–10 p. too. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 2 p. Bavarian game dishes include Rehpfeffer (venison) with egg Spätzle (German pasta) or tagliatelle with venison ragout. The menu reflects seasonal specialty Spargel (asparagus) in May and June and regional favorites. 254. % 089/2916-2525.262 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany French. Hofbräuhaus am Platzl $$ Altstadt GERMAN A boisterous atmosphere prevails in Munich’s huge and world-famous beer hall. Reservations recommended. Fredrichstrasse 1. The food is . Upstairs are a number of smaller. Fixed-price menu: 31€ ($39). try the simple but delicious Bavarian cream with strawberries. Kapuzinerstrasse 29. and Austria. but if the weather is nice. V. Georgenhof $$ Schwabing GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This pleasant Schwabing eatery has a comfortably rustic interior with a wood-fired grill. gnocchi. For dessert.-Anna Platz exit). U-Bahn: Lehel (the restaurant is less than a block from the St. Gasthaus Glockenbach $$$$ South of Train Station MODERN EUROPEAN This elegant but unpretentious restaurant serves imaginative. Fixedprice menus: 20€–45€ ($25–$56) lunch. such as spaghetti carbonara. % 089/39-31-01. 35€–70€ ($44–$87) dinner. % 089/534-043. See map p. Wines are mostly from Italy. you sit on benches at bare wood tables as a brass band plays. to midnight. MC. 254.–1 a. mostly organic. MC.

Everything on the menu is translated into English. Open: Daily 9 a. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. and stuffed cabbage rolls. and lime is a delicious starter. Fixed-price dinner: 48€–54€ ($60–$67). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Bräuhausstrasse). See map p. You sit in carved wooden chairs at shared tables. Main courses: 110€–40€ ($25–$50). cold melon soup. and turbot in chili and ginger sauce. AE.m. The menu emphasizes fresh fish prepared according to classic French cooking techniques but using spices from Malaysia (coconut milk). . 254. to midnight.m. See map p. and 6–10:30 p. Maximiliansplatz 5. No credit cards. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 10-minute walk northeast on Oskar-von-Miller Strasse to the entrance on Max-Joseph-Strasse). 254. fresh ginger. and India (curry). Hot dogs will never taste the same again after your kid has tried one of these delectable little sausages. and 5 p.m.m.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 263 heavy and hearty with a menu that includes Weisswürste and several other sausages. Main courses include bouillabaisse with aioli (a fish soup with a spicy mayonnaise). veal with arugula. Sparkassenstrasse 11. Japan (wasabi).m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to Frauenplatz beside the Frauenkirche). Frauenplatz 9. but you may find main courses such as mushroom tartar. Hunsinger’s Pacific $$ –$$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL/ASIAN This restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices. Closed Aug 10–30. No credit cards. % 089/5502-9741. this is the coziest and friendliest of Munich’s local restaurants. 254. % 089/295-264. Main courses: 21€–24€ ($26–$30).m. DC.–2:30 p. The tuna carpaccio with sliced plum. Thailand (lemon grass). See map p. roast duck with lentils. Open: Daily 10 a. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. Spanferkel (roast suckling pig). Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom $ Altstadt BAVARIAN A short walk from Marienplatz. Schweinbraten (roasted pork). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 3-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). Am Platzl 9. MC. AE. homemade gnocchi with duck and figs. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). % 089/290-1360. Nürnberger Schweinwurstl mit Kraut (pork sausages with cabbage. 254. % 089/297-995. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). La Galleria $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN The roster of dishes at this appealing Italian restaurant changes seasonally. See map p. Closed Aug. MC. to midnight. a specialty from Nuremberg) is the dish to try. Reservations recommended. or braised crab with polenta.m.–1 a. V. across from the cathedral (Dom). V.m. fried monkfish.

vine-covered restaurant housed in a converted mill serves hearty portions of traditional Bavarian food in a series of charmingly decorated dining rooms or at outdoor tables. like fettucine with tartufo (truffles). % 089/2370-3800. Open: Daily 10 a. woody interior with carved wooden chairs and tables and painted ceilings. V. and vegetarian Involtini (stuffed rollups). Main courses: 16€–24€ ($20–$30). % 089/219-9890. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk southwest on Rindermarkt and Oberanger and north on Sack Strasse to Hackenstrasse). macrobiotic dishes.–1 a. V. MC.m. in the Rathaus. Try spaghetti alle pomodoro (with tomatoes) or penne ai formaggi (with cheese). Toast the end of your Bavarian meal with a glass of wild-cherry schnapps. You can also get a good pizza. The menu includes freshly made salads. The daily special pasta may be something more exotic.m. Rossi $$ Altstadt ITALIAN With its columns. Asian-inspired vegetarian entrees. AE. See map p. Ratskeller München $ –$$ Altstadt BAVARIAN A Ratskeller is a cellar restaurant in a Rathaus (town hall). veal piccata with lemon sauce. Hackenstrasse 2. 254.m. For dessert try vanilla custard with fresh berry sauce. See map p. Ratskeller München has a dark. and pizzas generally are excellent. The casseroles. AE. The menu showcases regional dishes but also includes some vegetarian choices. Open: Daily 11 a. red-tiled floor. inexpensive food and wine. In the Platzl Hotel. soups. See map p. this well-liked Italian restaurant across from the famous Hofbräuhaus is an inviting place to dine. Pfistermühle 4. MC. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). The simply prepared pastas (Teigwaren in German) are always good. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight. where you find good.–11:30 p. you may want to try this popular vegetarian restaurant near Marienplatz. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (the Rathaus is on the square). V. Come for roast meats served with fresh vegetables. 254. Marienplatz 8. DC. or the fish platter served with ragout and noodles. or grilled steak (Rindfilet). AE. fresh trout accompanied by chive-flecked sour cream and a potato pancake. 254. Main courses: 8€–22€ ($10–$27). .m. Reservations recommended. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). Reservations recommended. MC. % 089/265-596.264 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pfistermühle $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN This old-fashioned. Prinz Myshkin $ Altstadt VEGETARIAN If sausages and meat dishes are getting to you. and white walls with wood-paneled ceiling.

Reservations required. which you can rent for 2. V. % 089/290-7060.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 265 See map p. MC. Sat 6 p. The Bayerische Teller (Bavarian plate) comes loaded with various meats.m. Open: Daily 7:30 a. V.m. this sophisticated Michelin-starred restaurant has a modernist interior that reminds some of an airport lounge. Breakfast: 4€–10€ ($5–$13). Open: Daily 9:30 a. Open: Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m. 254.m. Closed public holidays and annual holidays in Jan and May. and 6 p. red cabbage and cheese Spätzle. DC. The quality varies here. % 089/550-8800. 254. including pork and sausages. Bayerstrasse 10 A.–3 p.m. U-Bahn: Dietlindenstrasse (then a 10-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse. AE. and finish with a hazelnut soufflé with marinated figs. The choice of dishes is limited and changes often. The bistro also has a section for noncomputerized dining. north on Leopold Strasse. high-ceilinged. and I’d recommend it more for a snack between e-mails than a real meal. Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. AE. tagliatelle. Fixedprice lunch: 62€–92€ ($77–$115). takes up one side of this bright. technobistro in the main train station. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. to midnight. . AE. and spinach strudel. to midnight. Tantris $$$$ Schwabing FRENCH/GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A famed culinary mecca since 1972. MC.–1 a. With one of the fixed-price multi-course menus you may begin with a yellowfin tuna followed by monkfish with lobster raviolis. Main courses: 7€–14€ ($9–$17). Reservations recommended. Times Square Online Bistro $ Train Station CONTINENTAL/SNACKS A bank of online computers.–1 a. 254.m. Schwabing. sautéed foie gras with plums. MC. % 089/361-9590. Wash down your meal with the restaurant’s own beer. Residenzstrasse 12. Fixed-price dinner: 120€–140€ ($150–$175). medallions of venison with mushrooms. Bräuhausstrasse 6. V. and 6:30 p. Spaten-Franziskaner-Bier. in the main train station.m. U-/S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk west on Tal and northeast on Hochbrücken to Bräuhausstrasse). Main courses: 7€–18€ ($9–$22). Open: Tues–Sat noon to 3 p. DC.50€ ($ 3.m. See map p. Main courses: 14€–26€ ($17–$32).m.10) per quarter-hour. % 089/227-735. where you can order simple dishes such as pork cutlets. baked Camembert. V. Spatenhaus $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This well-known beer restaurant with big windows overlooking the opera house serves hearty portions of typical Bavarian food at reasonable prices.m. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk north on Diener Strasse and Residenzstrasse). AE.m. See map p. MC.– 12:30 a. and east on Johan-Fichte-Strasse).

one of Munich’s largest and most popular beer gardens. No credit cards. depending on its size.25) for every Brezel you eat.m. In summer. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south to Dreifaltifkeitsplatz on the east side of the Viktualienmarkt). Bus: 52). Zum Alten Markt $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This snug. it’s open Friday.m.75–$8). The food. Saturday. U-Bahn: Giselastrasse). Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 3. an easy-to-find landmark. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight (food served until 10 p. In the beer halls.m. but keep in mind that you’ll be charged up to 5€ ($6. friendly eatery is located on a tiny square just off the Viktualienmarkt. or accordionists sometimes add to the jovial atmosphere. zither players. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 11 a. You may begin with homemade cream of carrot soup or black-truffle tortellini in cream sauce. The best beer gardens Munich is famed for its beer gardens (Biergartens). Main courses: 12€–20€ ($15–$25). This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 10 a. and atmosphere are much the same in the two places that I recommend. pretzel) is the traditional accompaniment to ein Glas helles (ine glahss hel-les.m. and order hearty Bavarian food at reasonable prices. % 089/299-995. ߜ Biergarten Chinesischer Turm. The chef makes a great Tafelspitz (boiled beef). to 1 a. Englischer Garten 3 (% 089/3838720. and Sunday from 10 a. where you can sit outdoors.m.50€ ($3. to 9 p. Isarauen 8 (% 089/723-2677. ߜ Gaststätte zum Flaucher. a Brezel (bray-zuhl. quaff Munich’s famous brews. November to April. has tables set in a tree-shaded garden overlooking the Isar River. Salty pretzels and large white radishes (Radl) are traditional accompaniments to the beer. A simple meal generally costs around 10€ ($13). with a golden. Munich pretzels are delicious. You can also order classic dishes such as roast duck with applesauce or roast suckling pig. is located in the Englischer Garten at the foot of the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower).266 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Brezeln und bier (pretzels and beer) In Munich. chewy. . For a glass or mug of beer. Oom-pah-pah bands. tables are set up outside. near the zoo. to midnight. Munich’s big outdoor produce market. expect to pay 3€ to 6. you’ll usually find pretzels on the table.m.). a glass of light wheat beer). drink. not-too-salty crust and a soft thick interior.

The objects on view are among Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures.” earlier in this chapter. free for children 14 and younger Sun 1€ ($1. offering several world-class museums.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 267 For two of the best beer halls in Munich. Free tours highlighting various parts of the vast collection take place on Tuesday at 6:30 p. painting. The museum is so immense that you can easily spend several days exploring the two floors of exhibits. and textiles. 4€ ($5) students. (Tues until 10 p. decide which paintings you particularly want to see. Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) Museum Quarter Pinakothek means “painting gallery. you’ll have to make some difficult decisions. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). furniture.m. 268. in addition to clocks and scientific instruments. pick up a museum guide at the information desk. . see the listings under “The top restaurants. and then spend at least two to three hours. and southern Italy. A major highlight is the Riemenschneider Room. A free audio tour in English is available in the lobby.m.25). fascinating architecture. see the “Central Munich Attractions” map in this chapter. Admission: Tues–Sat 5.m. and Friday at 3 p. and beautiful places to stroll. and lovely parks and gardens. for the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl and Augustiner Grossgastätte.m. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum) East of Altstadt This museum contains three vast floors of sculpture.m. Tyrol. To make the most of your time here. The museum also contains a famous collection of Christmas Nativity cribs from Bavaria. punch the corresponding number into your audio guide to hear a full commentary. For locations.” and the nearly 800 paintings on display in this enormous building represent the greatest European artists of the 14th through 18th centuries.–5 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Enjoying Munich is easy.50€ ($7) adults. Sightseeing in Munich Munich is one of the great sightseeing cities in Germany. See map p. many fine churches and historic buildings. but if your time is limited. which contains works in wood by the great sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). ceramics. folk art. Give yourself at least an hour just to cover the highlights.). When you see a painting you want to know more about. Barer Strasse 27. Closed major holidays. % 089/2380-5216. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Munich is a city bursting with first-rate museums.

Neuh -Wilhelm-Strasse zog Her auser 8 strass e Sonnenstr.Nussbaum kirche platz e s as str urm w d Lin tras 0.2 mi 0. asse ellin The resie gstr n- U s tra sse s-St rass e ens Gab e lsbe Schleis sh rass e rger stra Arc isst 2 5 asse Brie nne r Str 6 Königsplatz lstra uste Seid Aug Meis U erst rass e asse nstr sse Kar lstra sse se tras 7 Karolinenplatz sse Ma ens se rstra rsst ras Luis Ar nu lfstra sse S Hauptbahnhof U Elise GARTEN nstr asse Bahnhofplatz Prielm aye rstr asse i U Schütze nstr . Ho t Joseph 9 Se li nd ng ers tr. Sonnenstr.2 km Blu Tha lkirc h Jah U ST. Karlsplatz Adolf-Kolping-Str. ter str . STEFAN’S STEFAN CEMETERY ns tra Munich sse 0 ners se me nstrasse Mü llerstrasse Unte rer A U nger Sendlingertorplatz Bare rstra sse h-S tras se sse Luis 3 4 Dachauers trasse Ma x-Jo sep sse . 1 Zieb Sch Hes tras se Aug u i S U sten land str.268 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Central Munich Attractions Alte Pinakothek 5 Altes Rathaus 16 Antikensammlungen 7 Asamkirche 9 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 20 Deutsches Museum 10 Englischer Garten 21 Frauenkirche 17 Glockenspiel 14 Glyptothek 6 Marienplatz 14 Michaelskirche 8 Münchner Stadtmuseum 12 Neue Pinakothek 3 Neues Rathaus 15 Olympiapark 1 Olympiaturm 1 Peterskirche 13 Pinakothek der Moderne 4 Residenz 19 Schloss Nymphenburg 2 Spielzeugmuseum 15 Theatinerkirche 18 Viktualienmarkt 11 NYMPHENBURG Amalienburg 26 Badenburg Pavilion 22 Magdalenenklause 25 Marstallmuseum 27 Pagodenburg 24 Porzellan-ManufakturNymphenburg 30 Porzellansammlung 28 Schloss 29 Schlosspark 23 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn U-Bahn eimers trasse s tr. ALTER BOTANISCHER e Sophienstr as s Bare Lenbachplatz U Maximiliansplatz Maxb S urgst rasse Senefelderstrasse Bayerstr. Goethestrasse Schillerstrasse Landwehrstrasse Mathildenstra spitalstr . Pettenko fer- strasse Hamburg Berlin G E R MAN Y Frankfurt 0 strasse MatthäusBeethoven. Schwanthalerstrasse Herzog spitals tr.

ide nm tr. e sse nh eim er . St. aul tiner ras s 18 Residenz 19 Liebigst Thea Kar rsta Reitm ay rasse d-F llst Wein str.HOFGARTEN platz Hofg U arten strass e se dst ras se e Oett Un söl rasse 20 er- Residenzstr. Frauenplatz Die ing erstr . ers üll tra Inn sse ere Baaderplatz Ludwigsbrücke Ke Ro se ller str Reichenbachstrasse Ze a r pp lin str a Lille nstr sse asse Hochs trasse sse ass sse ..Ring trasse Strasse ENGLISCHER GARTEN Von-de r-Tann Osk Brie ing K.-An na-Pfa rrstr. ns 11 ar do Frauenstrasse Ka e Zw nal t schs T h i er ass e rfs tra sse Viktualienmarkt Westenriederstrasse S er-R Jüdisches Museum München Maxim Knöbelstra sse ilians trasse Ste 17 Museum für Völkerkunde Thiersch Max Nationaltheater JosephPlatz Am Pfis Kosttorters Platz tras se Ma str. Scharnagl -R se Str ass Odeons. fing i S U 13 12 al Isartorplatz 15 Th.Vete rinär Huberplatz str. asse U Nymphenburger Kanal Schloss 29 28 26 27 ensch tr Hir rtens ga ellin 23 asse SCHLOSSPARK Am resie alie The nstr Grosser See stras nstr a sse se 22 Kaulbac hstrasse Zuccalistrasse Richildenstrasse Ludw ig t r a s se Kön igin s 21 tras se ens Schönfelds -vo n Türk le -Mil r. ner Kau str. rds Ste ins m Blu e tr.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 269 Königinstr ass e stra ss e Blüte nstra sse Akad emies trasse Ada lber tstra sse NYMPHENBURG Schac strass ke 24 Kleiner See 25 30 gstr Tür Sch ken University Prof. str inge nne rstra s sse Prinz rege nten st nstra Galeri estra Theatermuseum nf e che Ler ld s sse tra ar ss e Wagmüller str. -W Marienplatz 14 Im T imm 16 Rum Is fo tr. rns Maxim ilians brück e stra sse r W Is en Wi er S tra sse sis Gärtnerplatz z Fra Klen un ho fe rst r tra es Mo ras M tr. e rs U tr a ss e orstra Promenadeplatz Cuvilliés Theater stras hab Christophstr. Ba ad a Erh ers Is rdt tra str ass e Deutsches Museum 10 S ar e Bürkleinstr. ibr Co rn ück eli str us as se en se as str .

This hands-on.–5 p. you see a biplane flown by the Wright brothers in 1908.). the first electric generator (called a dynamo. Opel.25). Admission: 8. (Wed until 8 p. Its huge collection of scientific and technological treasures includes the first electric locomotive (1879). or less-expensive fare from the Viktualienmarkt (the produce market described later in this section). In the Aeronautics section.25) adults. Open: Daily 9 a. constructed in the 19th century.m. kid-friendly museum has interactive exhibits and an English-speaking staff to answer questions and demonstrate glass blowing.” earlier in this chapter). papermaking. Bounded on the south by Von-der-Tann Strasse and Prinzregentenstrasse. (Thurs until 8 p. this is the largest science and technology museum in the world and one of the most popular attractions in Germany. with a collection of luxury Daimler. Closed major holidays. are popular nude-sunbathing spots. Admission: Tues–Sat 5€ ($6. or at Hertie.–5 p.m. See map p. 3€ ($3. hilltop temple called the Monopteros. pumps.75) students and children 6–16. Established in 1789. the first airliner (1919). free for children younger than 18. and an assortment of military aircraft. and admire the view of Munich’s Altstadt from the round. The park is a lovely place to have a picnic. and historical musical instruments work. See map p.m. the Englischer Garten also is the oldest public park in the world.270 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. 3€ ($3. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 10minute walk north on Wagmüllerstrasse and east on Prinzregentenstrasse). Deutsches Museum (German Museum of Science and Technology) Museumsinsel Located on the Museumsinsel. 1866).50€ ($11) adults. Prinzregentenstrasse 3.m. Museumsinsel 1. on the west by Königinstrasse.75) students and seniors. The Automobile department in the basement is noteworthy. A giant beer garden occupies the plaza near the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). You can wander for hours along the tree-shaded walks. 268. 268. % 089/211-2401. Sun 1€ ($1. Englischer Garten (English Garden) Northwest of Altstadt Munich’s famous city park is one of the largest (922 acres) and most beautiful city parks in Europe. the stream that runs through the park.m. Tram: 18 to Deutsches Museum (the tram stops outside the museum). and how steam engines. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 10-minute walk northeast through the Hofgarten to the park). and lake. the department store across from the Hauptbahnhof. Spending half a day here is easy. . % 089/21791. You can pick up expensive picnic goodies at Alois Dallmayr (see “Dining Out. and the laboratory bench at which the atom first was split (1938). The banks of the Eisbach.). the first automobile (1886). an island in the Isar River. streams. on the east by Lerchenfeldstrasse. and Bugatti vehicles.m. the first diesel engine (1897). 268. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 271 Deutsches Museum Ceramics Glass Technical Toys Paper Writing & Printing Second Floor Ground Floor Aeronautics Glassblowing Special Exhibition Textile PhotoTechnology graphy New Energy Techniques Fraunhofer Room Brander Room Hall of Fame History of Museum Industrial Chemistry Physics Optics First Floor AeroSailing Wherry nautics Atomic & Nuclear Physics Telecommunications Musical Instruments Chemistry Oil & Natural Surface Gas Mining Turbines Metallurgy Machine Tools Welding & Soldering Ground Floor Mineral Power Machinery Resources Entrance Hall Marine Navigation Electrical Power Hydraulic Engineering Rescue Cruiser Wind Mill Vehicle Engineering Courtyard Museum Shop Roads & Bridges Tunneling Tower Railways Model Mountain Railways Railways Oil & Gas Mining Ore Dressing Power Machinery Basement Modern Mining Motor Vehicles Marine Navigation Hydraulic Engineering Motor Vehicles .

during the holiday seasons) when the 43-bell Glockenspiel (carillon) on the 280foot central spire of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) goes through its paces. one level below. tower 3€ ($3.m.m. 268. Open: Church Sat–Thurs 7 a. a historical toy collection. 0. and 5€ ($ 6.50€ ($ 1. % 089/290-0820.m. See map p.75 (95¢) for children 6 to 18. 15th-century Gothic tower. Admission is 2. 0. the Schäfflertanz (Coopers’ Dance). Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.75) adults.m. because many of the city’s attractions are clustered in the vicinity.m. See map p.10) for adults. Only its landmark twin onion-domed towers from 1525 remained standing. to 7 p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to the church).–5 p. Inside is the Spielzeugmuseum (% 089/294-001). You can take an elevator to the top of the Rathaus’s tower for a good view of the city center. To the right of the Neues Rathaus stands the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall).m. In the center of the Altstadt.m.m.m. completed in the late 15th century. Marienplatz Altstadt This large pedestrian-only square in the heart of the Altstadt also is the old heart of Munich. On the north side of Marienplatz is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall). Fri 7 a..m.50 (65¢) for children. and the view from the tower is spectacular.25) for a family.m. .m. Admission is 1. Brightly painted mechanical figures reenact two famous events from Munich’s history: the knights’ tournament during the 1586 wedding feast of Wilhelm V and Renate of Lorraine.–6 p.m.–7 p.50€ ($2) students. open daily from 10 a. was a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of World War II (WWII).m.50€ ($ 3.. The rebuilt church is strikingly simple and dignified. Frauenplatz 12. 1. and. 268. Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady) Altstadt Munich’s largest church.272 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Watching the Glockenspiel The best show on Marienplatz takes place at 11 a.90) for adults. daily (also at noon and 5 p. first performed in 1683 to express gratitude for the end of the plague. to 5:30 p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. Admission: Church free. to 7 p. and 9 p. tower Apr–Oct daily 10 a. The tower is open Monday to Friday from 9 a..m. Chances are you’ll return here again and again. built in 19thcentury Gothic style and famous for its Glockenspiel (see the sidebar “Watching the Glockenspiel” in this chapter). with its plain.

Sun 1€ ($1. You find a cafeteria in the museum’s main courtyard. Neue Pinakothek Museum Quarter Housed in a postmodern building from 1981. this museum is a showcase for 19th-century German and European art. The museum’s one must-see exhibit is the Moriskentanzer (Moorish dancers). starting right around 1800. Mundita. The second-floor photo museum traces the early history of the camera back to 1839. featuring ten carved and brightly painted 15th-century wooden figures. Artists whose works are on view include Thomas Gainsborough. remodeled during the baroque era. frescoes. You get a splendid view from the top. 268. See map p. 268. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults.m.25). which includes the oldest-known carousel horses. Caspar David Friedrich.).m. St. this museum still contains plenty to see. See map p. and a bizarre relic in the second chapel (on the left): the gem-studded skeleton of St. Joshua Reynolds.-Jakobs-Platz 1. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. (Nov–Mar until 6 p. Peter’s Church) Altstadt The bell tower of this 13th-century Gothic church. Closed major holidays.50) students and children 6–15. A tour of the highlights takes a couple of hours. Children love the third-floor collection of marionettes and hand puppets from around the world and the gallery of fairground art. Not quite as daunting as the nearby Alte Pinakothek. 268. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Münchner Stadtmuseum (Munich City Museum) Altstadt 273 This museum chronicles Munich’s history and the everyday lives of its residents.m. Peterskirche (St. See map p. % 089/260-4828. . an audio tour in English is free with your admission. who stares at you with two false eyes in her skull.). dating from 1820.m. 2€ ($2. Open: Wed–Mon 10 a. Francesco Goya. William Turner. among many others. Rindermarkt 1. (Wed until 10 p.m.m. tower 1.50€ ($7) adults. 4€ ($5) students and seniors. but you have to climb (and climb and climb) 306 steps to see it. The interior of the church contains baroque-era sculptures.).–5 p. free on Sun.50€ ($2) adults. 0.m. % 089/2380-5195. and Paul Gauguin.75 (95¢) students.–6 p. Admission: Church free.–7 p.m.m. (Nov–Mar until 7 p.m. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). Admission: Tues–Sat 5. is known locally as Old Pete. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2minute walk south on Rindermarkt). Barer Strasse 27 (across Theresienstrasse from the Alte Pinakothek). % 089/2332-2370.m. Vincent van Gogh. Sun 10 a. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Rindermarkt and Oberanger).–6 p.

% 089/2380-5360. From central Munich. and the Altes Residenztheater. and the Graphische Sammlung (Graphics Collection).m. Kandinsky.m. with three centuries’ worth of accumulated treasures. In 1702. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museums are across the street).25) for students 10–18. Giacometti. with arts and furnishings displayed in some 130 rooms.50) students and children. 268.–4 p. Ernst.m. Artisans painstakingly restored the Residenz. opened in September 2002. 2€ ($2.m.). free admission on Sun. Architecture.274 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of Modern Art. 5€ ($6. the Wittelsbachs’ summer residence. Added to and rebuilt through the centuries. The most important is the Staatsgalerie moderner Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art).– 6 p. and 12:30 p. a stunning rococo theater. Residenz (Royal Palace) Altstadt This magnificent building was the official residence of the Wittelsbach family. Kirchner. Max-Joseph-Platz 3. free for children younger than 10. the rulers of Bavaria.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.. Gris. Residenztheater 3€ ($3. % 089/290-671. Design) Museum Quarter Munich’s newest museum. Admission: 9€ ($11) adults.m.m. Admission: Combined ticket for Residenz Museum and Schatzkammer 9€ ($11) adults. displaying major 20th-century classics by internationally known artists including Matisse. is one of the most sophisticated and beautiful palaces in Europe. Elector Max Emanuel decided to enlarge the original Italianate villa by adding four large pavilions connected by arcaded passageways. You find four collections housed inside.75) adults. Barer Strasse 40. Picasso. Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) Nymphenburg Schloss Nymphenburg. the Schatzkammer (Treasury). 8€ ($10) students and children. including German and Florentine Renaissance.–5 p. See map p. you . Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. which was almost totally destroyed in WWII. from 1385 to 1918. the Museum of Architecture. and others. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (the palace is southeast across the square). Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (the palace is on the same square as the theater). laid out between 1613 and 1617. On the north side of the palace is the Italianate Hofgarten (Court Garden). (Thurs–Fri until 8 p. the Pinakothek der Moderne. and Palladian. The palace was begun in 1664 and took more than 150 years to complete. the palace is a compendium of various architectural styles. You enter both the Residenz Museum and the Schatzkammer from Max-Joseph-Platz on the south side of the palace. The other collections include the Neue Sammlung (Craft and Design Collection). The must-sees are the Residenz Museum.m. Closed major holidays. Guided tours (in German): Daily 10 a. 268. See map p.m. Open: Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 275 The Residenz Hofgartenstrasse State Collection of Egyptian Art Fourshaft Room Court Garden Wing Stone Room Wing Trier Wing Festival Hall Building Entrance Hall Bavarian Academy of Science Battle Room Wing To w Chapel Courtyard er B ui ld in g Hercules Chest Ladies’ Floor Coin Collection Imperial Courtyard Apothecaries’ Courtyard Ground Floor Nibelungen Rooms 1 Theater Floor Imperial Hall or r Corrid Theatine Stone Room Trier Corridor Trier Room Papal Rooms Rooms Upper Floor 1 Entrance to Residenz Museum denz Old Resi ße Antler Corridor Grotto Courtyard Ancestoral Gallery Royal Building Courtyard Old Foyer Residenz Foyer Theater Fountain Courtyard Apothecaries’ Wing Wittelsbach Cabinet Garden Fountain Ruins of All Saints Courtyard Church Kitchen Courtyard m riu ua iq nt A Re si de nz Marstallplatz st ra t Vestmen Rooms Treasury Royal Building Max-Joseph-Platz New Residenz Theater New Hercules Room Charlotte Corridor tt lo ar Ch en t ak tr ’s st ür rf Ku g in sW om Ro Rich Ludwig I’s Rooms Porcelain Gallery Battle Rooms .

to 5 p. with an 18th-century swimming pool. The church was begun by Italian architects in 1663 and was completed by German court architects about a century later. Theatinerkirche (Church of the Theatines) Altstadt Named for the Theatines. In the English-style park. A factory on the grounds of Schloss Nymphenburg still produces the famous Nymphenburg porcelain.m. you find Ludwig I’s famous Gallery of Beauties with paintings by J. A canal runs through 500-acre Schlosspark. Prettiest of all the buildings in the park is Amalienburg. including those used by Ludwig II. Fluted columns lining the center aisle support the arched ceiling of the nave. has a sales room and exhibition center open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a. and the Magdalenenklause (Hermitage).. you come first to the Great Hall. where you find a dazzling collection of ornate. In the south pavilion. 16. the Pagodenburg. To the south of the palace buildings.m. including miniature porcelain copies of masterpieces in the Alte Pinakothek. built in 1734 as a hunting lodge for Electress Amalia. this church is Munich’s finest example of Italian baroque architecture. Tram: 12. decorated in the Chinese style that was all the rage in the 18th century. gilded coaches and sleighs. you find the Badenburg Pavilion. meant to be a retreat for prayer and solitude. a group of Roman Catholic clergy. French-style gardens.m. Every surface appears to be loaded with dollops of fanciful white stuccowork.m. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection. Porzellan-Manufaktur-Nymphenburg. Admission: Palace grounds free. swirling stuccowork. in the rectangular block of low structures that once housed the court stables.276 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany can easily reach the palace by tram in about 20 minutes. is the Marstallmuseum. admission to all attractions 10€ ($13) adults. Open: Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a.m.m. free for children younger than 7.–6 p. . the raven-haired dancer whose affair with Ludwig caused a scandal. decorated in a vibrant splash of rococo colors and stuccowork. Nördliches Schlossrondell 8 (% 089/179-1970). 8km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. Badenburg and Magdalenenklause closed Oct 16–Mar 30. full of quiet meadows and forested paths. stretching all the way to the so-called grand cascade at the far end of the formal. Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. and wall paintings. See map p. 268. The dome above the transept is decorated with an ornate gallery of large statues. Schloss Nymphenburg 1. Inside. the interior salons are a riot of flamboyant colors. 8€ ($10) seniors. Stieler (1827–1850). The beauties include Schöne Münchnerin (Lovely Munich Girl) and a portrait of Lola Montez. You need at least half a day to explore the buildings and grounds. or 17 to Romanplatz (then a 10-minute walk west to the palace entrance). % 089/179-080. Dark wooden pews and a canopied pulpit provide the only color in the all-white interior.–4 p. entrance across from the Marstallmuseum) contains superb pieces of 18th-century porcelain.

fish sellers. a whole section of bakeries stocked with dozens of different kinds of Bavarian breads and rolls. 2.50€ ($4. Most of the permanent stands open at 6 a. In an area the size of a city block. Wed). and dozens of produce stalls.m.m. The Viktualienmarkt has a large beer garden. water.50) for adults.– 1 p. . is a remarkable rococo church built by the Asam brothers between 1733 and 1746. or other beverage at the beer-garden drink stand. Königsplatz 1 (% 089/599-888-30.C. and Tal on the north.50).m.m. close to Marienplatz. Multicolored marbles. and 1:30–4:30 p.25) for everyone. it’s 1€ ($1. Finding more cool things to see and do Munich has many important churches and museums in addition to those described in the preceding sections. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 2-minute walk south on Theatinerstrasse). remember two points: Do not touch the merchandise (doing so is against German food laws) and don’t try to bargain for lower prices (prices are not negotiable).m. See map p. 268. Open: Mon–Fri 10 a. www. Saturdays. The museum’s five main-floor halls house more than 650 Greek vases. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk southeast through the square).–3 p. weekdays or until 1 p.antike-am-koenigsplatz. Here are some additional places to visit as you explore the city. A joint ticket to the Museum of Antiquities and the neighboring Glyptothek (included later in this list) is 6€ ($7. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3. from a mussel shell to large Greek and Etruscan vases.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. and stay open until 6 p.m.m. You can buy food at the market stalls and eat it in the beer garden if you buy a beer. (until 8 p. to 5 p.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 277 See map p. Admission: Free. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. the Viktualienmarkt has been serving Munich residents for nearly 200 years and is a wonderful place to stroll and sniff and take in the scene. U-/S-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor). % 089/ 268. At the Viktualienmarkt. ߜ The Antikensammlungen (Museum of Antiquities).m. and in other outdoor food markets throughout Germany. Bounded by Prälat-Zistl-Strasse on the west. Frauen Strasse to the south. Heiliggeiststrasse on the east.m. you find two dozen butcher shops. Theatinerstrasse 22.m. wine merchants. on Sendlinger Strasse (% 089/260-9357. Viktualienmarkt (Produce Market) Altstadt Located on the square of the same name. ߜ The Asamkirche.mwn. five cheese sellers. Sat 10 a. is an essential stop for anyone interested in ancient art. on Sunday.m.. a soda. from a pre-Mycenaean version carved in 3000 B.

daily (Apr–Oct also at 11:30 a. a colossal Sleeping Satyr from the Hellenistic period. Tours depart at 10 and 11 a. The extraordinary view reaches all the way to the Alps. everyone gets in for 1€ ($1. take place at the colossal 69. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 a. to 10 p. 3. plus another at 10 a. and 5 p.50€ ($3) for students and seniors.m.000-seat stadium. ߜ The Michaelskirche (St. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). exhibits Germany’s largest collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. Olympiaturm (% 089/3067-2750).) television tower in the center of the park.C.m. www. the 293m-high (960-ft. site of the 1972 Olympic games.. Sunday from 6:45 a.278 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany gold leaf. to 7 p. The one-hour Stadtrundfahrt (city sightseeing tour) by Panorama Tours (% 089-54907560.m. including concerts.25).m. a third spends time in the Alte Pinakothek (Tues–Sun at 10 a.m. to 5:30 p. U-Bahn: Königsplatz).m.50) for adults. kouroi (statues of youths). ߜ Located across from the Antikensammlungen (see the first entry in this list). and 1. to midnight.10) for children younger than 16. is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps. The church is open daily from 8 a.m. A ticket for a ride to the top costs 4€ ($5) for adults and 2.. to 5 p. another goes to the Olympic Area where you can climb its 960-foot Olympic Tower (daily at 2:30 p.m..m. spend some time exploring a single site with a guide. 2. Seeing Munich by Guided Tour You have two choices for orientation bus tours.). ߜ Olympiapark (% 089/3067-2414.50€ ($4. 19€ ($23) city tours that.m. Panorama also offers 21⁄2-hour. sits at the northwestern edge of Munich and is a small city unto itself. Neuhauserstrasse 52 (% 089/231-7060. U-Bahn: Olympiazentrum). 2. One visits Schloss Nymphenburg (daily at 2:30 p. and silver cover every square inch of this small rectangular church with rounded ends.autobusoberbayern. 2:30. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. and 4 p. (until 8 p. is open daily from 9 a.m.m. Various events. Königsplatz 3 (% 089/286-100.m. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3. Thurs).m. Here you find sixth-century-B.m.m.).50€ ($ is a straightforward affair — just hop on in front of the Hauptbahnhof and buy your 11€ ($13) ticket onboard. Michael’s Church).m.). the Glyptothek. in addition to the city orientation tour. They also run guided tours to the castle of Neuschwanstein. on Sunday. Apr–Oct). and a haunting collection of Roman portraits. . noon. a single-nave church with a barrel-vaulted ceiling completed in 1597.m.

hunger. you can tour Munich by bicycle with the English-speaking ex-pats at Mike’s Bike Tours (% 089/2554-3988 or 0172/852-0660. parts of the KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau (Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial). Visitors now follow the route of the prisoners. The company offers several options.. disease. lasting about . Inscribed boards show the rooms’ original conditions and functions. after disinfecting.m. Himmler ordered the first German concentration camp to be set up in Dachau.mikesbiketours. they were given a striped prison uniform. and mass executions by shooting. were redesigned to focus on the fate of the prisoners and to integrate the still-existing historic buildings into the reworked permanent exhibition.” homosexuals. and then transfer to bus 724 or 726 to the camp. The first to arrive were political prisoners (Communists and Social Democrats). are a great way to find out about Munich’s history and architecture. under the tower of the Altes Rathaus on Marienplatz.m. and more than 32.000 died. Between 1933 and 1945. Alte-Roemar-Strasse 75 (% 08131/1741). the meeting point for all walks is the New Rathaus directly under the Glockenspiel on Marienplatz. www. The camp is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a. take S-Bahn train S2 from the Hauptbahnhof to Dachau (direction: Petershausen). more than 206. tour. and where. and 4 p. February through November. to 5 p.” “antisocial elements. In June and July. Jehovah’s Witnesses. 24€ ($29) spins around the sights of central Munich (including 45 minutes in a beer garden). April 16 through August. there’s also a 5:15 p. followed soon after by “beggars.m. at 11:30 a.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 279 Dachau: Germany’s first concentration camp In 1933. 19km (12 miles) northwest of growing numbers of Dachau did not have gas chambers. Munich Walk Tours (% 0171/274-0204. All tours meet 15 minutes before setting off. www. shortly after Hitler became German chancellor.m. Mike’s offers four-hour. No need to reserve.m. To get to the camp. but displays showing prisoners’ faces and videos of survivor interviews put a very human face on the horrific pain and suffering endured by these ordinary citizens. after 1938.m. Captions are in German and English. September to November 10 and March to April 15. For a more active experience. In 2002. you pay the guide (identifiable by a yellow sign).000 prisoners arrived (the exact number is unknown). Prisoners died through work. The 21⁄4-hour City Walk Tour starts daily at 10:45 a. enter rooms in which citizens were stripped of all their belongings and rights. conducted in English.munich walktours. Hitler’s Munich.. The daily tours leave at 2:30 p. The names of many of the dead are not known. admission is free. and.

such as coats. On these streets. and Rudolph Moshammer.” Ludwig Beck am Rathauseck. and piping hot Glühwein. the plaza overflows with stalls selling toys. folk art. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). Sometimes called “the Bloomingdale’s of Germany. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Munich ranks right up there with Paris and London. The best streets for elegant boutiques and specialty shops are Briennerstrasse. Marienplatz 11 (% 089/236-910. Maffeistrasse 7–9 (% 089/210-390. and handicrafts. This city is not one in which you’re likely to find many bargains. 9€ ($11) for those younger than 26. Maffeistrasse. Dirndls (traditional German dresses). founded in 1842. is Munich’s best department store and a good place to shop for handmade crafts from all across Germany. however. and Theatinestrasse. Max Dietl. Am Platzl 1/Sparkassenstrasse 10 (% 089/220-163. The biggest concentration of shops selling secondhand goods is on Westenriederstrasse. and a mouthwatering array of traditional snacks and sweets. including gingerbread. tree ornaments. Joop. is the place for all kinds of high-quality loden (a waterproof wool) wear. covers all the important facts and sites that played a role in Munich’s Nazi era. the main square of the inner city. or Christmas Market. allpurpose department store. jackets. Marienplatz at Christmas Marienplatz. The cost for each tour is 10€ ($13 for adults). General shopping is less pricey on and around Marienplatz and along the main pedestrian streets Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauser Strasse. Bogner. is the scene of a famous Christkindl Markt. . Hertie’s. Antiques devotees with deep pockets find what they want on Ottostrasse. across from the main train station. is a good. Loden-Frey. Maximilianstrasse (which also has the leading art galleries). handicrafts. a spiced red wine. has a large selection of high-quality Bavarian costumes. you find branches of all the top European couturiers and Germany’s and Munich’s own designers: Jil Sander. Dirndl-Ecke. and when the topic is shopping. Shopping for Local Treasures Munich is the fashion capital of Germany. free for children younger than 14. From late November through December. smoked meats. Bahnhofplatz 7 (% 089/55120.280 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 21⁄2 hours. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). sugarcoated almonds. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). and hats. fruitcakes.

called a Kasse. to 1 a. Checking out bars and clubs Cafes are quiet in the afternoon but pick up noise and steam as the evening wears on.m. Performances of both opera and ballet take place in the National Theater. to midnight. The club hours are .Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 281 Discovering Nightlife in Munich Something always is going on in Munich. Residenzstrasse 1 (% 089/ 2185-1940.m. smoke-filled hangout for writers. and Sunday from 9 a. Herrnstrasse 30 (% 089/291-884. But you can sit back in a leafy beer garden or in a beer hall. is a sprawling.m. Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera. (See “The best beer gardens” earlier in this chapter. Havana Club. or midnight. As southern Germany’s cultural capital. is a lively singles bar fueled by rum-based cocktails. U-Bahn: Universität). To find out what’s playing. and the occasional celeb. Tram: 19). pick up a copy of Monatsprogramm (1. Bars and cafes Café Extrablatt.m. the jewel-box rococo theater in the Residenz (see “Discovering the top attractions from A to performs from midSeptember to July in the Philharmonic Hall in the Gasteig Kulturzentrum (Cultural Center). and enjoy the local scene.staatsoper.50€/$2) from one of the tourist offices.. Rosenheimerstrasse 5 (% 089/5481-8181. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Few cities in Europe can rival Munich for the sheer number of musical and theatrical events. have a beer. In a cafe. Munich is renowned for its opera and symphony concerts and theater.” earlier in this chapter) also is an important performance venue for plays and operas. Friday and Saturday from 9 a. to midnight. The cafe is open Monday through Thursday from 8 a. as in the rest of the world.) You also find plenty of bars and dance clubs for late-night partying. S-Bahn: Rosenheimerplatz). which generally is open during the day and an hour before the performance. Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (Tram 19).muenchnerphilharmoniker. Nightclubs in is one of the world’s great opera companies. you can sit with a coffee or a drink and order light meals or pastries.m. artists. The best way to purchase tickets is to go directly to the venue’s box office. www. tend to get going around 11 p. www. Altes Residenztheater (Cuvilliés Theater. S-Bahn: Isartor). The famous Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra. % 089/2185-1920. Leopoldstrasse 7 (% 089/333-333.bayerische.

Maximilianplatz 5 (% 089/595-900. If you’re calling within Munich. to 12:30 p. to 2 a. to 6 p. is open for mail pickup and check cashing Monday through Friday from 9 a. restaurants. or for the police. to 3 a. Promenadeplatz 6 (% 089/2280-1465. and this is it. Schumanns American Bar. For the fire department. to 6 a. call % 112. is done up like an Edwardian-era London club and attracts an eclectic assortment of locals and tourists. to 1 a. offers expensive cocktails. City Code The city telephone code for Munich is 089. Business Hours See the appendix for details. restaurant.m.m.m.m.282 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Monday through Wednesday from 6 p. attracting soccer stars. Tram 19). and dance clubs. and Saturday from 9:30 a. If you get hungry there is a restaurant on the premises. The décor is updated 1950s. Charles Schumann. All the bars open by 8 p.m. Frauenstrasse 11 (% 089/229-909. a bistro. Cover ranges from 4€ to 8€ ($5–$10).m.m. The bar is open Sunday through Friday from 5 p. the music is jazz. mixed and/or invented by the owner.).m. blues. 36 Maximilianstrasse (% 089/229-060. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof). The club is open nightly from 6 p. to 1 a. Nachtcafé.m. to 11:30 p. . www. Kunstpark Ost. use 089.m. See also “Telephone” in the appendix. If you’re within Germany but not in Munich. Grafingerstrasse 6 (% 089/ 4900-2730. Fast Facts: Munich American Express American Express. and soul. and waves of “ordinary” patrons to its bar. is a complex of bars. Tram: 49).times-square. Emergencies For emergency medical aid. Master’s Home. Bayerstrasse side (% 089/ 5508-8000. if you’re looking for a chic spot. has computer workstations. The place is open daily from 9 p.m.m. and Thursday through Saturday from 7 p. Nightclubs Set within an old factory.m. Use 89 if you’re calling Munich from outside Germany. and is open daily from 7:30 a. writers. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz).m. discos start around 10:30 p. You can move from venue to venue according to your interest.m.m. Tram: 19). movie stars. and stage shows (which begin at 11 p. (don’t show up before then).m.m. call % 110. to 3 a. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number. is one of the most happening nightspots in Munich.m. Currency Exchange You can exchange money at the currency exchange in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) daily from 6 a. Internet Access Times Square Online Bistro in the Hauptbahnhof.m. No cover charge.

283 Safety Munich. to 4 p.m. Transit Assistance For information on the U-Bahn and trams. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. at Bahnhofplatz 1 (% 089/599-0870).de) is the best site for general information.m.m.mvv-muenchen. and Sunday from 9 a. . such as Marienplatz and the Hauptbahnhof. Restrooms You find restrooms in cafes. MVV. and Saturday from 9 a.. You find more information on Munich and Bavaria at www. a drugstore where English is spoken. muenchen. to 3 p. restaurants. Saturday from 8 a. and beer halls throughout the Altstadt. to 8 p. especially pickpocketing and purseand camera-snatching. Post Office The Postamt München (main post office) is across from the Hauptbahnhof. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). has its share of crime.m.m. to 8 p.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Pharmacies International Ludwig’s Apotheke. at % 089/4142-4344 or visit their Web site (www.m. Most robberies occur in the much-frequented tourist areas.m. The office is open Monday through Friday from 7 a. to 4 p. call the public-transportation authority. Neuhauserstrasse 11 (% 089/ Web Sites The tourist office Web site (www.bavaria.m.m.. like all big cities.

Visitors find a great deal to enjoy in this mountainous region in addition to Ludwig’s castles. A . houses with fancifully painted facades. gently rises through foothills covered with verdant pastures.100 years. rococo churches. and groves of evergreens to the dramatic heights of the Alps that divide Germany and western Austria. historic buildings. Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. Bavaria remained a kingdom until 1918. the fairy-tale castle of Ludwig II ᮣ Visiting the alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen ᮣ Day-tripping to Oberammergau and Schloss Linderhof lthough Bavaria’s recorded history dates back some 1. many Bavarians still regard that royal era with nostalgia. or Romantic Road. lake-splashed countryside.” depending on your interpretation) whose castles at Linderhof and Neuschwanstein draw millions of visitors. Ludwig’s castles mark the end of the Romantische Strasse. the legendary “dream king” (or “mad king.Chapter 16 Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring the medieval towns along the Romantic Road ᮣ Discovering Neuschwanstein. Bavaria abounds with romantic villages. Upper Bavaria (Oberbayern).” they mean only one: Ludwig II. and nature on a grand scale. the region didn’t become a kingdom until 1806. the southernmost part of Germany. both easy daytrips from Munich. world-class ski and winter-sports resorts. one of Germany’s most beautiful scenic drives and one of the best ways to sample the delights of Bavaria. When they speak wistfully about “the king. by order of Napoleon. Brief as it was. will give you a taste of what Bavaria has to offer. when a German republic replaced the Bavarian monarchy.

You also can visit these towns by train as daytrips from Munich or Frankfurt. renting a car at Frankfurt airport (Chapter 20) is easy. Würzburg was in ancient times an important town in the duchy of Franconia. winding from the vineyard-clad hills surrounding Würzburg south to the green alpine pastures and craggy forested peaks around Neuschwanstein Castle. Though today it’s part of Bavaria. which spread across southcentral Germany. Driving these 290km (180 miles) of specially marked lanes and secondary roads. and remained so until Napoleon ended the power of the church in 1802. From there.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 285 Greetings from Bavaria In Bavaria. travelers enjoy an unfolding panorama of surprisingly beautiful rural landscapes interspersed with a host of small medieval cities. In three or four days of very easy driving. visit the Romantic Road’s Web site (www. many of them rebuilt after World War II (WWII). The saying means. fear got) or für dich (for you. or Romantic Road. lively university town surrounded by miles of vineyards. graceful river and wine town are most obvious in the Altstadt. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. “God greets you. the official start of the Romantic Road. The bishops of Würzburg. The major towns for overnight stays are Wü the old city center with its leafy squares and historic buildings. (See “The Romantic Road” map in this chapter. From Munich (Chapter 15) you can drive 119km (74 miles) southwest to Füssen and drive the route in reverse.” Goodbye is für Gott (for God. The charms of this old. you can drive southeast 119km (74 miles) to Würzburg. who took possession of the town in 1050. The two sights of most . and Füssen. The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria If I had to recommend only one scenic drive in Germany. fear dikh).) If you’re arriving in Frankfurt. you can hit all the highlights. roughly. people generally use the greeting grüss Gott (pronounced grease got) rather than guten Morgen (good morning) or guten Tag (good day). were also princes of Franconia. Würzburg: Franconian Fortress Würzburg on the River Main is a lovely. all of which I describe later in this chapter. Augsburg. it would be Bavaria’s Romantische Strasse. For more information.

m.m. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. www. Dining in Würzburg The Fränkische Stuben. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information on the city. and Visa are accepted. herring filets with apples. an onion tart).m. and Sunday 11 a. Finding information The tourist information office. Staying in Würzburg Greifensteiner Hof. American Express. Dettelbachergasse 2. take the A3 southeast and follow the signs to Würzburg. Saturday from 10 a.bahn. Pleichortorstrasse 5. American Express. wuerzburg. (See the “Würzburg” map in this chapter. (Jan–Mar until 4 p. Main courses range from 8€ to 18€ ($10–$22). You can easily reach Würzburg by train from Frankfurt (11⁄2 hours). www.greifensteiner-hof. www. Marktplatz 9 (% 0931/37-23-98. Rack rates for a double room run from 100€ to 210€ ($125–$262). is a charming 40-room hotel right in the heart of the Altstadt behind the Marienkirche. or anywhere else in Germany. Maritim Hotel Würzburg. the baroque palace of the princebishops. A standard double room goes for 60€ to 90€ ($75–$112) per night. to 2 p. roasted meats. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/30530.). Try fresh fish in Riesling wine sauce.m. . their earlier fortress-castle high on a hill overlooking the town.m.286 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany interest to tourists are the Residenz. and Sundays April through October from 10 a. light.m. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/ 35170.m. or Zwiebelkuchen (zwee-bel-kook-en. For train information. is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. and the Festung Marienburg.). in the Hotel Greifensteiner Hof (described in the preceding section). modern hotel within easy walking distance of the Altstadt. Each room is different. The medium-sized rooms are decorated in an unobtrusive contemporary style and have good-sized bathrooms with tub and shower. fruity Franconian wines of the region go well with anything. to 3 p. Munich (21⁄2 hours). to 2 p. to 6 p. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday 11 a. MasterCard.) Getting there If you come by car from Frankfurt. and Visa are accepted. MasterCard.m. with nice designer touches and a smallish bathroom.m. breakfast included. to The fresh. American Express. Dettelbachergasse 2 (% 09861/87809).maritim. (Jan–Mar until 1 p. and Visa are accepted. Diners www. and pickles in sour cream. Diners Club. onions.m. Diners Club. is a pleasant. with the big buffet breakfast an additional 15€ ($19). is a lovely place to sit outside on a warm evening and dine on Franconian specialties of the Würzburg

Schongau oberdorf Wildsteig Bo Wangen im Allgäu Allg de ns ee Peiting Rottenbuch Murnau Steingaden Wieskirche Wies Oberammergau Wies Schwangau 17 Neuschwanstein Walchen Hohenschwangau Walchensee Penzberg Füssen ssen B11 SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA LEC ER EN AL L P HT A GarmischPartenkirchen Zugspitze .Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 287 The Romantic Road Schweinfurt Aschaffenburg E41 E45 0 20 mi Bamberg 0 Bamberg 20 km Wiesentheid 3 E43 8 E45 73 Würzburg rzburg Werthelm 47 RO A D RO M AN TI C Castle Church Forchheim Erlangen 27 Mittenberg Amorbach 27 Tauberbischofsheim Lauda-k nigshofen Lauda-königshofen Röttingham ttingham 290 Creglingen 25 Bad Mergentheim Weikersheim Weikersheim Fürth rth Nürnberg rnberg Herrgottskirche HO H OH HE ENLO N LOH H E R EB E BE ENE E50 O. Schillingf rst Schillingfürst Ansbach Schwabach Roth 2 KIS 2 Heilbronn Murrhardt Backnang Winnenden 29 Crailsheim E43 25 Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl Ellingen CH E45 Feuchtwangen Gunzenhousen Gunzenhausen 19 Wallerstein Aalen 29 Schwabisch Schwäbisch Gmünd Gm nd rdlingen Nördlingen 25 ALB Harburg 16 FR Ingolstadt Neuberg-ander-Donau Donauw rth Donauwörth AD RO AD RO AN CC M TITI RO AN M RO 16 16 Ellwangen (Jagst) UC H Heidenheim an der Brenz Goppingen Kirchheim unter Teck E52 E43 28 Nürtingen rtingen 28 Dillingen an der Donau AN Ä 300 Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Munich 2 Ulm Augsburg 17 E A LB To Munich E52 E50 Ehingen (Donau) 30 E43 312 Friedberg Area of detail Krumbach (Schwaben) Olching Fürstenfeldbruck rstenfeldbruck Landsberg E54 am Lech TIC ROAD ROMAN Biberach an der Riß Ri 312 E54 Mindelheim Herbertingen 32 30 Landsberg 17 Memmingen Kaufbeuren Leutkirch im Allgäu Allg Kempten Immenstadt im Allgäu Allg Lindau Sonthofen Diessen Ammersee Starnberg Herrsching Hohenfurch Hohen B2 Starnbergersee E533 Weingarten Ravensburg E43/54 Markt.D.d.T.T. Rothenburg o.

the Hofkirche.50–$19). call % 0931/37-23-36 or visit the festival’s Web site (www. with tables on the square in good weather. the liveliest square in Würzburg. Homemade sausage mixed with fried potatoes and eggs. was completed in 1744 by architect Balthasar Neuman for Prince-Bishop Johann von Schönborn.wvv. The Residenz is open daily from 9 a. you come to the Rathaus. mozartfest-wuerzburg. Mary’s Church). MasterCard. The most important areas to visit are the vaulted Treppenhaus.m. or roast beef with fried onions and potatoes make for filling feasts. begun in 1040 and rebuilt after extensive damage in WWII.50€ ($5.m. Considered one of the most important palaces in Europe and a masterpiece of the baroque era. perhaps. is open daily from noon to midnight. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. the 345-room Residenz.50). which takes place during the first three weeks in June. Kilian.m. where main courses range from 6€ to 15€ ($7. with a ceiling covered by a huge fresco with mythological allegories painted by Tiepolo.50). the Marktplatz (Market Square). For more information on this popular event. and. Langgasse 1 (% 0931/13021). % 09317/20-59-40).–4 p. Exploring Würzburg The town is compact enough so that you can walk everywhere — except. Crowning the high slope on the west side of the Main is the Festung Marienburg (Marienburg Fortress. the formal and elegant Hofgarten.m. both slathered with a riot of fanciful stucco work. Marienburg Fortress is a huge complex of buildings that includes within its walls the eighthcentury Marienkirche (St. Continuing west on Domstrasse from the cathedral. Many of the concerts by renowned musicians are performed in the beautiful baroque rooms of the Residenz. up to the Festung Marienburg. a court chapel with colored marble columns and two important altar paintings by Tiepolo. you come to the Romanesque Dom (Cathedral) St. Behind the palace. just north of it. One of the annual highlights of Würzburg’s cultural year is the Mozart Festival. Residenzplatz 2 (% 0931/35-51-70). also is worth accessible by a scenic footpath up or bus no.). or stairway. Domstrasse (% 0931/3211830).de). Guided tours in English are given daily at 11 a. The restaurant. admission is 4. Following Hofstrasse west from the Residenz. or court garden. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. to 6 p. reached by crossing the late-15th-century Alte Mainbrücke (Old Main Bridge) and following the marked footpath (you can also take the no. and 3 p. for local transportation information call % 0931/36-13-52 or visit www. and the Weisser Saal (White Hall) and Gartensaal (Garden Room).288 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankish foods with an occasional French twist are served at the atmospheric Ratskeller Würzburg. 9 bus from the Residenz). which will take you right up to the gate. (Nov–Mar 10 a. American Express.m. and Visa are accepted. 9. one of the oldest churches .m.

Berliner Wörthstr. Neue Universität g rrin de San rich Fried tos E b ter g Rin Südbahnhof en s d tr. Pro Neum me nad anne Renn weg 7 MAINVIERTEL Saalgasse ALTSTADT Dom 5 er s chu lstr .m. Würzburg Munich Hauge rring . rone eik Dr Th r te ea Karmelitenstr Mai nkai . Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg From Würzburg. nstr. Marktplatz Ka p E ic h h n or . The one must-see attraction in this local history collection is the room devoted to the carved wooden sculptures of Tilman Riemenschneider. Kilian) Rathaus n ai Alte M 4 Domstr. r Augustinerst Büttnerstr. the great Gothic master woodcarver (see the nearby sidebar). the Romantic Road leaves the River Main and follows Route 27 in a southwesterly direction to the town of Tauberbischofsheim Ka N erg sstr. admission is 3€ ($3. Juliusspital Schönbornstr.75) adults. tpo Lui lds tr. Neubaustr. 6 brücke .m. e ls m m e S Kr o a t e n g a sse Platz r. 1. rst ine z u tr. Ot tr. Alte Universität Bal HOFGARTEN Burkarder Tor Leistenstr. and the Mainfränkisches Museum. wi gs r. .50€ ($2) students. str . Sand l a ci nts 0 1/8 mile Ludwigsbrücke Am tenden Stu haus Fr ie tr. Z e l l er S i Dom Altes 3 (St. 0 125 meters ACCOMMODATIONS and DINING Fränkische Stuben 2 Greifensteiner Hof 2 Maritim Hotel Würzburg 1 Ratskeller Würzburg 3 ATTRACTIONS Alte Mainbrücke 4 Dom 6 Festung Marienburg & Mainfrankisches Museum 5 Residenz 7 in Germany.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 289 i Würzburg Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Information er im he ch hö its Ve . H e i nes tr. Kais sden Frie rücke b ikerst 2 th. in winter). str d Lu weger Ring kai nen Kra n Mai 1 Juliu s e enad prom tr. to 5 p. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. San der str. (until 4 p. - Re nn tr. str genrin Koell Hauptbahnhof (train station) Rönt g erst r.

90). the Deutschordensmuseum (Teutonic Knights Museum. . if you’re into that sort of thing.75) adults. is one of the major highlights along the Romantic Road.). You can see more work by this great artist at the Herrgottskirche near Creglingen on the Romantic Road. He died shortly after being released from prison. the only museum in the world devoted to the history of thimbles.50€ ($1. was built where a farmer plowing his fields claimed to have found a sacred host.. admission is 1. serving as both a councilor and mayor. to 5 p.m. within the palace complex.m. just 51km (32 miles) southeast of Würzburg. located on a signposted road about 2km (11⁄2 miles) south of Creglingen in Herrgottstal.. Riemenschneider. and between 1505 and 1510.m. Devoted to armor and weaponry. 47km (29 miles) south of Würzburg.20€ ($1. % 07933/370). this master woodcarver sided with the rebels and incurred the implacable wrath of the prince-bishops. and 2 to 5 p. a completely intact walled medieval city located on a high promontory above the Tauber River. lived and worked in Würzburg for 48 years. As a result of his political views. Another 18km (11 miles) on B19 brings you to Creglingen. The church is open daily from 9:15 a. % 07931/52212).m.m. described in the “Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg” section of this chapter. attractive spa town is worth a stop to stroll along its pretty cobbled streets and to have a quick look at the Deutschordenschloss. a palace used by royal princes and the medieval order of Teutonic Knights. It’s interesting . During the Peasants’ Revolt of 1525. dating from 1389.m. whose incredibly expressive wood sculptures are the highlight of the Mainfränkisches Museum. It quickly became a place of pilgrimage.290 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Tilman Riemenschneider: Würzburg’s master woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). to 12:30 p. Across the road from the church is the small Fingerhutmuseum (Thimble Museum.50€ ($1. Sun 10:30 a. 1. (Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 2–5 p.–5 p. you buy your ticket at a machine outside the church.m. This small.. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. created an extraordinarily beautiful altar with figures representing the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin framed by scenes from her life. worth a stop to see the famous carved wooden altar by Tilman Riemenschneider in the Herrgottskirche.80€ ($4. The town. and from . The church. . Riemenschneider was imprisoned and tortured. has been a tourist destination for nearly a century. admission is 3. admission is 1.m.50) for children 6 to 12. where you pick up B290 to Bad Mergentheim. the master woodcarver from Würzburg.90). is open Tuesday through Sunday 10:30 a. to 5:30 p.m. Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories Rothenburg.m.

Heidelberg. . but you need to transfer at Würzburg or Ansbach and again at Steinach.bahn.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. Don’t let that deter you from visiting this remarkable reminder of Germany’s medieval www.-Jakobskirche 3 e N a ug sse Ci Hamburg 12 ga eng W ty sse wa Berlin G E R MA NY am Main 11 Kirche Burg gas se Al a St dt t e gr a be MarktFranziskaner platz n 9 Rödergasse ll Frankfurt Cit y wall 13 T Heilig-GeistKirche 0 Spitalgasse Rothenburg ob der Tauber Munich ub Church Information 1/8 mile 125 meters i N ACCOMODATIONS Burghotel 4 Hotel Eisenhut 10 14 0 May through September you’ll likely encounter hordes of visitors. (See the “Rothenburg ob der Tauber” map in this chapter. For train information.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 291 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Ci 1 ty wall Bezold weg Kling enschutt Ro se e ngas Kling 3 5 Schrannenplatz Ju d e n gass e 2 G 4 e alg nga sse sen ga sse Klostergasse Herrn g asse 6 7 8 10 i DINING Burgerkeller 5 Gasthof Marktplatz 6 Ratsstube 8 ATTRACTIONS Castle Gardens 11 Klingenbastei 1 Marktplatz 9 Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum 12 Plönlein 13 Rathaus und er Ratstrinkstube 7 R iv r e Reichsstadtmuseum 2 a Spitalbastei 14 St. continue south from Creglingen on B290. or Stuttgart. You also can reach Rothenburg by train from Nuremberg. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861.

and 6 to 9 p. The Ratsstube.m.. local cooking and sample local wines. www. and Sat 10 a.m. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information about the city. and Jägerschnitzel. The Gasthof also rents out simple. from its half-timbered facade at the end of a cobblestone cul-de-sac to its large. parking costs 7.–1 p. No credit cards are accepted. . breakfast included). to 6 p. and 6 to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. www. to 2 p. such as Käsespätzle (cheesecoated noodles) cooked with onions. to 11 p. Gasthof Marktplatz.m.gasthofmarktplatz. has a tavernlike interior and is a favorite of those who prefer hearty cooking (including sauerbraten and venison) without a lot of fuss and bother.50€ ($9. in the town hall. (Nov–Apr Mon–Fri until 5 p. Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Burgerkeller. Herrngasse 24 (% 09861/2126). American Express. Main courses range from 8€ to 14€ ($10–$17). and on Sunday from noon to 6 p. American-style breakfasts also are available. Expect to pay 6€ to 10€ ($7. Diners Club.m. carless Marktplatz. to 2 p. some with a nice view of busy. MasterCard. Grüner Markt 10 (% 09861/6722. and Visa are accepted. Double rooms go for 90€ to 170€ ($112–$212).). The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday 11 inexpensive rooms (38€–48€/$47–$60. including breakfast. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). Klostergasse 1–3. a pork schnitzel with cream is a pleasant spot to dine on good. Boutique hotel standards prevail. basic. Rothenburg’s premier hotel. MasterCard and Visa are accepted.burghotel.m. prettily decorated rooms with views out across the Tauber Valley.50–$13) for a main course.rothenburg. It isn’t gourmet by any stretch. is open May through October Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. Everything about the 15-room Burg Hotel. (closed Jan–Mar). housed in a 16th-century cellar (with tables outside in nice weather).m. old-fashioned Swabian dishes. serves hearty. on the square to the right of the Rathaus.m.50). Staying in Rothenburg See Chapter 22 for a description of Hotel Eisenhut ($$–$$$$).m. Marktplatz 6 (% 09861/92411).292 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Finding information Tourist Information. more like German comfort food. and the entire hotel is nonsmoking.m.m. The restaurant is open daily except Wednesday from 11:30 a. Marktplatz (% 09861/40492.m.m. Standard dishes include Maultaschensuppe (stuffed pasta in broth) and Nuremberg sausages on sauerkraut. is picturesque. to 3 p.m. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber (% 09861/94890. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.. rothenburg.

m. Then just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere in one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities.m. is the Ratstrinkstube (Councilors’ Tavern). Admission is 3. The museum is open April through October daily from 9:30 a. you get a great view of the town (open Apr–Oct 9:30 a. in 1881. The play forms the centerpiece of a weekend festival that takes place every September in Rothenburg. take a walk on a portion of the town ramparts from the massive 16thcentury Spitalbastei (a medieval tower-gate at the end of the Spitalgasse) to the Klingenbastei (another tower-gate). commander of the armies of the Catholic League. Windows on either side of the lowest clock open at 11 a.. a 31⁄2-liter (6-pint) tankard of wine. Medieval crime and punishment are the fascinatingly gruesome subjects of the museum’s displays.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 293 The Master Draught: How Mayor Nusch saved Rothenburg In 1631. during the Thirty Years’ War. the other half sits on a high ridge above the Tauber River. Here’s a rare chance to see chastity belts.m. 2.m. captured the Protestant city of Rothenburg and was given. General Tilly. At the center of Rothenburg is the bustling Marktplatz (Market Square) dominated by the Rathaus (% 09861/40492).m. an old inn with three clocks on its gabled facade. You can buy them in bakeries all across town. and 10 p. a shame flute for bad musicians. look for a Rothenburg specialty called Schneeballen (snowballs) — crisp. For an excellent visual introduction.50€ ($4. As you’re walking. noon. shame masks.m.30€ ($3) for students. round pastries covered with powdered sugar. a 14th-century hospital with Rothenburg’s only 18th-century baroque facade houses the macabre Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime Museum). Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber Medieval walls encircle almost half of Rothenburg. Adjacent to the Rathaus. South of the Rathaus.m. called Die Meistertrunk (The Master Draught).m. chief protagonists in the drinking bout that saved Rothenburg. From the top of its 50m (165-ft. Former mayor Nusch accepted the challenge and succeeded. to reveal the figures of General Tilly and Herr Nusch. and an iron maiden.25). and 1.m. to 4 p. to 6 p. December and March daily from 10 a... November and January through February daily from 2 to 4 p.–12:30 p. He said he would spare the town from destruction if one of the town burghers could down the huge tankard in one draught. thus saving Rothenburg and giving himself a three-day hangover. and now serving as the tourist information office.) tower. part 16th-century Renaissance. when hundreds of citizens dress up in period costumes and re-create the period of the Master Draught. 9. and 1–5 p. a dunking basket.m. as victor. Burggasse 3–5 (% 09861/ 5359). This historical episode was performed as a festival play.50) adults. . 3. part 13th-century Gothic.. admission 1€/$1. 2.

James).m. Klostergasse 15 (% 09861/700-620). just the picturesque streets. and houses. an upper and a lower. a collection of gold coins.000. Admission is 1. a Christmas-related emporium loaded with thousands upon thousands of Christmas ornaments.75) for adults. (Riemenschneider’s work also is on view in Würzburg and in the Herrgottskirche. Driving along B25. With a population of about 260.50 (65¢) children.. on the way to Augsburg. November and January through March daily 10 a. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. 2€ ($2. pewter beer steins. you also pass neatly tended farms and fields. Rothenburg has plenty of picturesque nooks and crannies to explore.) The fine painted-glass windows in the church choir date from the late Gothic period. and dolls. Shopping in Rothenburg Kunstwerke Friese. 0. is worth visiting to see the Heiliges-Blut-Altar (Altar of the Holy Blood). The church is open daily April through October from 9 a. a masterpiece created by the Würzburg sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider. it’s the largest town along the Romantic Road and serves as a . It displays medieval panel paintings. the drive parallels the lovely. specializes in cuckoo clocks and carries Hummel figurines.50€ ($2) adults.m. converge.90) for children 6 to 18. Every day is Christmas at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Weinachtsdoft (Christmas Village).-Jakobskirche (Church of St. which is housed in a 700year-old Dominican nunnery with well-preserved cloisters.m. to 5:15 p. November through March daily from 1 to 4 p. to noon and 2 to 4 p. squares.50€ ($1. and objects of local interest. convent hall. leafy Tauber Valley. Klosterhof 5 (% 09861/93-9043). to 5 p. Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg The charm of driving along the Romantic Road is enhanced by the bucolic landscapes seen between the villages. churches. music boxes.m. December daily 10 a.m. a park on the site of the imperial castle.. described earlier in this chapter.294 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Gothic St. Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance Augsburg is a city of pleasant surprises. 1.. where two streets. North and south of Rothenburg. Just northwest of the Jakobskirche is the Reichsstadtmuseum (City Museum).m. armaments. No must-see sights are in either town. Two walled medieval towns worth a stop and stroll are Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen. and kitchen.m.m. Also look for the photogenic corner known as the Plönlein. to 4:45 p.50) for students and seniors. Grüner Markt (% 09861/7166). drinking vessels.m. Open hours are April through October daily from 10 a. Herrngasse 1 (% 09861/4090). One particularly pretty spot with lovely views over the Tauber Valley is Castle Gardens.

ACCOMMODATIONS ATTRACTIONS Bert. r au lm allst e g Vo berw o Hamburg Jak Berlin Katharine ngasse 10 11 GERMANY Forster 12 H a l l s t r. ass ilian erg Maxim int W llee er–A nau Ade benstr. charming corners. 7 8 Jakobertor tr.G Ob Fugg r. Jakoberst r. Brech Romantikhotel t Brechthaus 4 OblatterwallAugsburger Hof rstr turm Dom St. 0 0 Church Information 1/8 mile Stettenstr. Ulrich und Kirchgasse St. Trains from Frankfurt (trip time about 3 hours) Le ch h 3 r. rad– ra Kon chiessg S sse kerga Bäc .Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 295 Augsburg uz re Au f m de Je su i K St 1 2 hl e ass ng te rg Hofgarten Lu dw Obstmarkt Stadt. Spen e Mauer b P Ra u h ec w o ff st r rdsberg Leonha 4 5 6 P il g e r h a usstr. . Rotes Tor 125 meters gateway to the Bavarian Alps. Afra Prinzstr. and the lively ambience of a university town.igst r . Rathausplatz An 9 nas i Fuggerei Kap p ene ck Jakoberwallturm Vogeltor Z e ug g er . Armen h ausg. tenau Grot glerg. G ra b en i ter n rabe . A stroll through Augsburg reveals an attractive urban landscape loaded with historic buildings. Anna 9 a Un f. em St. (See the “Augsburg” map in this chapter. ethov enstr str . erst Be e str. Ulrichs Weite G a s e platz s K itzenmarkt t Pro vinos Schwibbogen platz R boldstr. continue on B25 south from Rothenburg to Augsburg. theater Karlstr. Graben i N us e rstr. Am S all ch w am Main Frankfurt Kapuzine r g Augsburg Munich r. under the patronage of the enormously wealthy Fugger family. nto ue Fr a eg Ho he r W L au Mittl. Maria 3 e d e Rirestaurant) (hotel and 1 Fuggerei 8 Steigenberger Drei Fugger-Stadtpalais 11 FünfgratMohren 10 Mozarthaus 2 turm Perlachturm 5 ü DINING b s n Rathaus 6 Fuggerei Stube G 7ä a elsu Schaezlerpalais 12 c a r St.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. The city was founded some 2.000 years ago by the Roman emperor Augustus and reached its cultural zenith during the Renaissance. J ako ber uer ma Unt.

Service is friendly and efficient. on Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. an unpretentious local eatery.75). Diners Club. 86150 Augsburg (% 0821/50360. The best way to appreciate Augsburg’s architectural and cultural heritage is by taking the walking tour (in German and English) offered by the tourist office daily at 2 p. though the rooms vary in size and level of finesse. is a 36-room boutiquestyle hotel located just minutes from central Rathausplatz and all Augsburg attractions. to 6 p.augsburger-hof.bahn.–1 p. is the town’s full-service luxuryoriented hotel.m. and Visa are accepted.296 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Munich (trip time about 30 minutes) arrive frequently throughout the day. Rooms are nicely done with exposed beams in some and small but well-designed bathrooms with The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner.m.augsburg. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. on Saturdays at 2 p. distributes city maps. The 102-room Steigenberger Drei Mohren. Doubles go for 97€ to 130€ ($121–$162) and include a good breakfast buffet. Fuggerei Stube.m. Auf dem Kreuz 2. Expect to pay 12€ to 25€ ($15–$31) for main Staying in Augsburg Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. The office also offers a two-hour bus tour May through October Thursday through Sunday at 10 a. www. Larger (and quieter) rooms face an inner courtyard. MasterCard. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.m.steigenberger. to 1 p. dine at the restaurant in the Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. and Visa are accepted.m. The best are large and comfortable. 86152 Augsburg (% 0821/ serves generous portions of Swabian food with a few “inter- . All tours begin at the Rathaus. where the rear dining room is paneled in pale linden wood and the menu contains lots of Bavarian and Swabian specialties. Diners Club. augsburg-tourismus. and Saturday from 10 a. The hotel’s restaurant is one of the best in town. Rathausplatz (% 0821/502-0724.m. American Express.m. www. Rack rates for a double room range from 145€ to 165€ ($181–$206). American Express. Dining in Augsburg For fine food and impeccable service in lovely surroundings.m. open Monday through Friday 9 a. For train information. (9€/$11). Jakoberstrasse 26 (% 0821/30870).de. the rest of the year (7€/$8. MasterCard. Auf dem Kreuz 2 (% 0821/34-30-50). and can help you find a room. dispenses general information. from May through October. with marble-clad bathrooms with big bathtubs. www. (Sun in summer 10 a.). Maximilianstrasse 40. The hotel’s new (2006) Meder’s Bar and Grill serves smaller-portion German and international dishes throughout the day.

m. The tower. on the Annahof. houses the Bavarian State Gallery.m.50€ ($4. both dating from 1500. capped by a distinctive dome called an “Augsburg onion” (you’ll see these onion domes on churches all across Augsburg and as you head south into Bavaria).m. on Jakobsplatz in the old residential quarter of town. to 6 p. and Cranach. Maximilianstrasse. A late-18th-century mansion. a former Carmelite monastery church dating from 1321.m. If you climb to the top of the soaring spire of the Perlachturm (Perlach Tower). noted for its old masters painting collection with works by Dürer. Ulrich and St. of what was once the Fugger-Stadtpalais (Fugger City Palace). on Annahof. one of the most important building complexes in Augsburg. is dominated by two imposing Renaissance-era buildings.m. designed by Elias Holl and completed in 1620.50). you find the city market with stalls selling flowers.m. demarcate the southern end of Maximilianstrasse. Maximilianstrasse 46 (% 0821/324-4125). 7€/$8. The Augustus fountain in front of the Rathaus was dedicated on the occasion of the town’s 1. chicken breast with curry and rice.m..m.m. Am Rathausplatz 2 (% 0821/324-9180). next to the Rathaus. .m. fixed-price menu 19€ ($24). stretches south from Rathausplatz. The church. Martin Luther stayed in the adjoining monastery when he was called to Augsburg to recant his 95 Theses before a papal emissary. MasterCard. is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. and still in use today. both considerably rebuilt after damage in WWII. Right next to the church. admission is 3. calves’ liver with apples. duck into the courtyard of Maximilianstrasse 36 to have a look at the Damenhof.m. St. onions. is open May through October from 10 a. Rathausplatz. and much more. to 2 p.75). which contains paintings by Lucas Cranach and the chapel of the Fugger family. you’ll be rewarded with a marvelous view of the old town center. ornamented by three large Renaissance-era fountains and lined with shops and fine patrician houses. you’ll find the Fuggerei. American Express. or Ladies’ Court. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a..m. to 3 p. and vegetarian offerings. pastries.m. and 5:30 to 11 p. 10 a.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 297 national” dishes. As you stroll along Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. A pair of churches. stands St. the Fuggerei was built in 1523 by Jacob Fugger the Rich. is one of the most significant secular buildings of the German Renaissance.. The first almshouses in the world. and Visa are accepted. to 6 p. Anna. Afra. Holbein. The Rathaus. In 1518. the Schaezlerpalais. Sunday 11:30 a. East of Maximilianstrasse. Look for potato cream soup with mushrooms. The interior is famous for its sumptuous Goldener Saal (Golden Hall). produce. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). and 3 p. to 6 p. Exploring Augsburg Augsburg’s main square. which can be visited only as part of a Rathaus tour (daily May–Oct.600th birthday in 1594. West of Rathausplatz. and roast potatoes.

admission is 1€ ($1.m.m. where Wolfgang’s father. the lightflooded interior with its enormous cupola shimmers with a superabundance of woodcarvings. was born. Ludwig II’s famous castle in the Bavarian Alps.298 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Wieskirche: Masterpiece in a meadow On the stretch of B17 from Augsburg to Füssen. are found in the south transept of Augsburg’s cathedral. the compound looks like a miniature town with 67 identical cottages containing 147 small apartments. a fountain. Some of the oldest stained-glass windows in Germany. Maria.m.m. To return to the Romantic Road.50€ ($2). a master mason reduced to penury. If you’re a fan of Mozart.). . dating from the 12th century. One of the world’s most exuberantly decorated buildings. the Fuggerei Museum.. Leopold. backtrack to B17 and follow it south to Neuschwanstein. where you find the Wieskirche (% 08862/501). statues.m. this rococo masterpiece was created by Dominikus Zimmermann (1685–1766). Tiny but fascinating. (Apr–Sept until 7 p. Hoher Weg (% 0821/316-6353). Residents pay an annual rent of 1€ (equivalent to one old Rhenish guilder) and are expected to pray three times a day for the soul of their benefactor. It’s open March through December daily from 10 a. The Mozarthaus and the Brechthaus are open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. Altered during the centuries. Admission is free. Wolfie’s great-grandfather Franz Mozart.m. 6km (4 miles) southeast of the town of Steingaden off B17. to 6 p. and a 14th-century bronze door.–5 a. who worked on the church with his brother from 1746 to 1754. paintings by Hans Holbein the Elder. and a park. lived in the Fuggerei almshouse at Mittlere Gasse 14. Surrounded by walls and gates (locked 10 p. to 5 p. columns. to 5 p. Auf dem Rain 7 (% 0821/324-2779) was the birthplace of playwright Bertolt Brecht (1898–1956) and today serves as a Brecht memorial. On this segment of the drive. gilded stucco. Mittlere Gasse 13 (% 0821/3198810). Dom St. admission to each is 1. Behind a rather sober facade. a church.m. The church is open daily from 8 a. a remarkable pilgrimage church in a beautiful alpine meadow (the name means “church in the meadow”). I strongly recommend that you make a short detour to Wies.. you may want to take a look at the humble Mozarthaus. but then the verdant (or snow-covered) pastures of the Bavarian Alps appear. lets you glimpse the interior of one of the cottages as it looked in centuries past.).25).m.m. The Brechthaus. the cathedral features Gothic frescoes. and bright frescoes. the Romantic Road passes through some industrialized areas that aren’t particularly appealing. Frauentorstrasse 30 (% 0821/324-3984).

bought it in 1832. A ticket office near the parking lot of the castles sells tickets for both Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. Tours in English are available throughout the day. Queen Maria of Prussia.m. open Monday through Friday from 8 a. especially in August. Maximilian II. receiving nearly a million visitors a year.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 299 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air Located 116km (72 miles) southwest of Munich. Ludwig II spent much of his joyless childhood at Hohenschwangau with his strait-laced father and his mother. Ten buses a day (no. On some days. When the time comes. 25. feed your ticket into the turnstile in front of the respective castle. Neuschwanstein. the most photographed building in Germany. Hohenschwangau. try to arrive as soon as the castles open in the morning. Saturday from 9 a. A tour number and entry time are printed on your ticket. You can see the castles only on guided tours. On the ruins. the nearest large town (described later in this chapter). he built the Neo-Gothic castle you see today and used it as a summer holiday residence. to 5 p. the two Bavarian royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein (and the nearby town of Füssen) mark the end of the Romantic Road. parking costs 4€ ($5). (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. To save yourself time. then Bavaria’s crown prince. From there. head south along B17 to Schwangau. it’s a 7km (4-mile) drive along a signposted road.m. Finding information and buying tickets Information about both castles and the region in general is available in Schwangau at the Kurverwaltung (tourist office) in the Rathaus. The rooms of Hohenschwangau were designed and furnished in a ponderous “Gothic Castle” style that was fashionable in the 1830s and 1840s. is the less remarkable and more intimate of the two. to noon.000 people visit. The tour guide will meet you inside. King Ludwig II. One parking lot serves both castles. Münchenerstrasse 2 (% 08362/81980). which last about 35 minutes each. Getting there If you’re driving from Augsburg along the Romantic Road..) The royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein are the most popular tourist attractions in Germany. was the fairy-tale concoction of Maximilian’s son. built by Maximilian II in 1836. Exploring Hohenschwangau The castle was a 600-year-old ruin when Ludwig’s father.m. 9713) arrive from Füssen. . Be prepared for long lines (sometimes up to 3 hours) in the summer. A digital sign informs you when your tour is ready.

Ludwig II was only 18 years old when he was crowned king of Bavaria.m. a bridge that crosses over the Pöllat Gorge and offers a panoramic view of the castle dramatically perched on its crag above. which begins at the ticket office. Three days later. The most famous of his design efforts is the turreted castle of Neuschwanstein. who was first invited to Hohenschwangau by a teenaged Ludwig. at age 41.” later in this chapter).25). The crypt of the Michaelskirche (St. Born in Munich in 1845. If you don’t want to walk. costs 1. Biographies. Hohenschwangau. Ludwig II is “the mad king. A more picturesque way to reach Neuschwanstein is by horse-drawn carriage. plays. The bus ride.” This strange. the first palace that he built (see “A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles. named for the wall paintings depicting the saga of Lohengrin (a Germanic hero associated with the swan). along with the physician who had declared him insane. self-obsessed monarch has become one of the legendary figures in Bavarian history. is one of the castle’s most attractive chambers.. the walk to the castle entrance includes a steep. costs 3. he was found drowned in Lake Starnberg on the outskirts of Munich. Michael’s Church) in Munich contains Ludwig’s grave and those of other Wittelsbach royals.80€ ($2. Exploring Neuschwanstein Reaching the castle entrance involves a steep 800m (1⁄2-mile).m.50€ ($4. he often had Wagner’s operas performed for his own solitary pleasure. to 4 p. From Marienbrücke. At Linderhof. A patron of the composer Richard Wagner. Richard Wagner. and even a musical have been written about him. March 15 to October 15 hours are 8:30 a. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults and 8€ ($10) for students and children 6 to 15. you can take a bus to Marienbrücke. Ludwig went so far as to reconstruct the Venus grotto from Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. The Hall of the Swan Knight. which starts in front of the Schlosshotel Lisl near the parking lot. is open daily. perched on a crag high above the town of Schwangau. Ludwig’s excesses eventually threatened to bankrupt the kingdom. he is “the dream king. 30-minute climb from the parking lot at Hohenschwangau Castle. For many years. Tall. Ludwig grew bored with the affairs of state and eventually became more and more obsessed with acting out his extravagant fantasies. films. The music room on the second floor contains copies of letters between Ludwig II and his musical idol.” For others.m.40) for the trip up to the castle . Alpseestrasse (% 08362/81127). and blue-eyed. The carriage ride. and the grand piano on which the two played duets. the extravagant dream king financed Wagner.300 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Ludwig II: Madman or dreamer? For some. October 16 to March 14 hours are 9:30 a. he was declared insane. 170-step stairway and takes about ten minutes. to 6 p. handsome. Was he murdered or did he commit suicide? No one knows.m. and in 1886.

Artisans carved wall panels to look like Gothic windows.m. the king lived in Neuschwanstein on and off for 170 days. 8€ ($10) for children and students. he received news of his dethronement. In September. Tickets go on sale in early June and always sell out quickly. From April through September. At Neuschwanstein.. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults. The intricate woodcarving in the king’s bedroom took 41⁄2 years to complete.90) for the descent. The throne room. the Sängerhalle (Singer’s Hall) takes up almost the entire fourth floor of the castle. free for children ages 6 to 14. The king’s study is decorated with painted scenes from the medieval legend of Tannhäuser. to 4 p.50€ ($1. to 6 p. designed to look like a Romanesque basilica with columns of red porphyry and a mosaic floor. tours depart every half-hour from 9 a. Through the balcony window you can see the 46m-high (150-ft. Between 1884 and 1886. The sumptuous ornamentation seen throughout the castle influenced Jugendstil. Decorated with marble columns and frescoes depicting the life of Parsifal. After you leave the guided tour. with the mountains in the distance. October through March. after Wartburg castle in Eisenach.m. Paintings of Christ looking down on the 12 Apostles and 6 canonized kings of Europe decorate the walls and ceiling. Ludwig watched the construction of his dream palace through a telescope from neighboring Hohenschwangau. contact the Verkehrsamt (tourist office) in Schwangau (% 08362/81980).Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 301 entrance and 1. another architectural fantasy. Be aware that the carriages are sometimes crowded. from 10 a. A stairway of white Carrara marble leads up to the golden apse where the king’s throne was to stand. you can make your way down to see the enormous kitchens of the castle. . a mural depicts the legend of the doomed lovers Tristan and Isolde. The ornate bed rests on a raised platform with an elaborately carved canopy. stopping only when Ludwig died in 1886. Everything from curtains to chair coverings is made of silk embroidered with the gold-and-silver Bavarian coat of arms. Buy tickets from the bus driver or at the carriage. a mythical medieval knight. Building began in 1869 and continued for some 17 years. the castle can be visited year-round by guided tour only. Located at Neuschwansteinstrasse 20 (% 08362/81035). Three days later he was dead.m.m. Architects modeled the room. For information and reservations. was never completed. Wagnerian and other classical music concerts take place in the Singer’s Hall. A 20-minute film about the life of Ludwig II is shown in an auditorium.) waterfall in the Pöllat Gorge. the site of song contests in the Middle Ages. the German form of Art Nouveau.

another in the Rathaus (town hall). Divided by the Lech River. one at Kaiser-MaximilianPlatz 1. where the restaurant serves sandwiches. Otherwise.000 inhabitants has lovely squares and narrow cobblestone streets flanked by medieval stone houses. to 6:30 p. Trains from Munich (trip time 21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (trip time 5–51⁄2 hours) arrive frequently throughout the day. Summer hours are Monday to Friday 8:30 a. to noon. winter hours are Monday to Friday from 9 a. Finding information Füssen Tourismus operates two tourist offices. continue south on B17. or larger meals. soup.hotel-hechten.m. you can eat outdoors on the terrace of Hotel Müller. to 5 p. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/ 93850 for both. Its history dates back to Roman times. the medieval town of Füssen marks the official end (or beginning) of the Romantic Road. January 1.m. and Saturday from 10 a. 119km (74 miles) southwest of Munich and just 3km (2 miles) from Neuschwanstein. herring. when Füssen was a trading station. The 35 comfortable rooms are small to medium in size.m. to Staying in Füssen Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten. and beverages.) Getting there If you’re driving along the Romantic Road from Augsburg. you encounter no lack of restaurants (or hotels) right around the parking lot near Hohenschwangau. Füssen is an atmospheric place to headquarter while exploring the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau or other places in the Bavarian Alps. and Saturday from 10 a. www. Ritterstrasse 6. From Munich. desserts.m. For train information. this town of 15. has been owned and operated by the same family for generations.m. and Shrove Tuesday (the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday on the Christian calendar). Dining near the castles Neuschwanstein has a pleasant cafe where you can get sandwiches. www. December 24.302 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Neuschwanstein is closed November 1.fuessen. This spotless guesthouse with blooming flower boxes exudes an air of old-fashioned Bavarian hospitality. If the weather is fine. most have small .de. 25. Main courses go for 8€ to 16€ ($10–$20). call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. bahn. 87629 Füssen (% 08362/ 91600. and (See the “Füssen” map in this chapter. take the A8 Autobahn west to Landsberg and then head south on B17. Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road Situated in foothills of the Bavarian Alps.m.

some have balconies. most have showers in r gs tras se i llner- Wachsb leiche Church I 0 0.Sc hulhausstr. Huterg. be rg Tegel- Dr. B m arotrkt F r a n zisk a n erg. Schloss Hohenschwangau. Mitteldorf 10. be Glü c Hin te re k A LT S TA D T hen Reic St. BAD FAULENBACH e strass Alatsee St. Rupprechtstrasse Ziegelangerweg Schmid Sch lesie str. is a traditional Bavarian guesthouse with views of the mountains and nearby castles. 87645 Schwangau (% 08362/9800.25 mi N Zi e l ge Bgm . American Express. MasterCard. www. and Visa are accepted. The rooms all are furnished differently. Augustenstra sse Schiess haus gas se sse trass e Mar nh of strass Sud e ete nst nstrass e Rudolf strasse -F Sonne a ass e e ss stra sse uiterJesa g s se Ga sse ngasse s tr ost Ott asse ras s Lu itp old s tr e Hoc re y be rg -St r KaiserMaximilian. 2 3 e kt) riss Mo nmar e och W Mag nu sp l. The hotel is located directly below the castle in Füssen’s Altstadt (Old Town). a small village about 4km (21⁄2 miles) east of Füssen.-SebastianKirche ALTER FRIEDHOF Fra nzi nerpla tz ska B ru nn e Kemptener Str. Schwangau rsse Flo asse g .Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 303 Füssen Information Post Office Railway inkel genstr. m er au er Rathaus 5 6 i Lec n t se d as 7 A Sta italg Sp d ( Dre he r Pfarrg.-Wa 1 der An dsaul Bil hhalde 8 To Schloss Neuschwanstein. Platz Se ba s ti a Schran n st nr ass gassne e e g asse i r.25 km Str. rstr. Feriengasthof Helmer. Ritterstr. Kemptener ellenberg Kap Am F gässchen nbach aule Flos serg asse S t a dtbl iche e Hamburg Berlin uer Strasse wanga S ch e lbachgasse trass Müh S r e l ro Ti 4 Mü hle nw eg Lec h GE R M A NY Frankfurt Munich Füssen ACCOMMODATIONS Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten 2 Feriengasthof Helmer 8 DINING Fischerhütte 1 Zum Schwanen 7 ATTRACTIONS Hohes Schloss 3 Kloster St. Theresienstras se Bahnhof Bah Aug s iens Kar l- Ege rlan str.hotel-helmer. n Vo ZIEGELBERG 0 0. Located in Schwangau.-Samer-Str . d- König-Lu dwi g-P hstif rom tstr en asse ad e bur ger stra str.-Mang 5 Lechfall 4 Museum der Stadt Füssen 6 shower-only bathrooms. Rack rates for a double room with buffet breakfast range from 74€ to 84€ ($92–$105).

In the early 18th century. Main courses go for 11€ to 25€ ($ 14–$ 31). Dining in Füssen Fischerhütte. and portions are generous. to 5 p. including a collection of locally produced violins and lutes.304 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the bathrooms.m. 1000.m. MasterCard is the only credit card accepted.m. at the edge of a small lake within sight of dramatic mountain scenery. lamb. as a summer residence.m. Reservations are recommended.D. where you find a collection of Swabian artwork from the 1400s to the 1700s.) and charges 3€ ($3. Rack rates for a double room with breakfast are 78€ to 108€ ($97–$135). (Nov–Mar. Small and old-fashioned. serves a flavorful blend of Swabian and Bavarian cuisine. fresh local trout. The powerful prince-bishops of Augsburg used the Hohes Schloss. North Atlantic lobster. Menu offerings may include Alaskan salmon.-Mang (Monastery of St.m. and 6:30 to 10 p. Johann-Jakob Herkomer. Brotmarkt 4 (% 08362/6174). MasterCard and Visa are accepted.m. to 4 p. . Hopfen am See (5km/3 miles northwest of Füssen. founded by Benedictine monks in the eighth century on the site where an Irish missionary monk named St. children younger than 14 free. A few meat dishes are also available. Specialties include homemade sausage. to 2 p. Exploring Füssen Füssen’s main attraction is the Hohes Schloss (High Castle).m. which occupies the former state apartments of the abbey and displays artifacts relating to the history and culture of the region. one of the finest late-Gothic castles in Bavaria. to 9:30 p. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a. Diners can enjoy Bavarian specialties during the summer in an outdoor beer garden.75) for admission. Magnus died in 750.). American Express. % 08362/91970). Magnus). Magnusplatz (% 08362/903-146). Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($8. The restaurant is open daily from 10 a. Zum Schwanen is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a. 1–4 p. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/903-145). (Nov–Mar 2–4 p.75–$22). Service is helpful and attentive. and venison. French-style bouillabaisse. Now the castle is the home of the Staatsgalerie. Zum Schwanen. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. reached by a steep lane behind the parish church.m. Access to the secularized church complex is through the Museum der Stadt Füssen (City Museum). The Romanesque crypt in front of the high altar contains frescoes painted around A. turned the church and monastery into a baroque gem with a strong Venetian influence.m. MasterCard.m. and Visa are accepted. Immediately below the castle lies the Kloster St. roast pork. Admission is 3€ ($3. or grilled halibut. Uferstrasse 16. Kids enjoy the nearby pool and find plenty of room to play outside.75) for adults. a local architect. specializes in seafood from around the world.m. Stay here if you want old-fashioned atmosphere.

Garmisch’s main square. you can walk to all the centrally located hotels.m.garmisch-partenkirchen. is a popular walk from Füssen. the famed Zugspitze. the trip takes about one hour. For information and schedules. Finding information The tourist information office at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2 (% 08821/180700. and Sundays and holidays from 10 a. village atmosphere. you still find charming details: the sound of cowbells in the meadows outside town. Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren $ Partenkirchen Located in Partenkirchen. hiding Germany’s tallest Getting there Trains run frequently from all directions to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. To reach GarmischPartenkirchen by car from Munich. to is open Monday to Saturday from 8 a. and streets and lanes (particularly in Partenkirchen) with a quiet. rear up to the south of town. the quieter side of town. the Alpspitze and the Waxensteine. the fourth Winter Olympics took place here. a waterfall less than a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) south of town. Two giant peaks. The . Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen A free municipal bus runs every 15 minutes between the Bahnhof (train station) and Marienplatz.m. Despite the commercial.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 305 The Lechfall. The trip time from Munich is about 11⁄2 hours. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. touristy air of the towns. A pedestrian footbridge spans the falls. located where the Lech River squeezes through a rocky gorge and over a high ledge. and in 1978. this family-owned and -operated hotel offers cozy accommodations at moderate prices.m. www. the twin villages of Garmisch and Partenkirchen comprise Germany’s top winter-sports resort. From Marienplatz.) In 1936. The office supplies maps and details of area hikes and attractions. Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze Located about 97km (60 miles) southwest of Munich. the towns played host to the World Alpine Ski Championships. (See the “Garmisch-Partenkirchen” map in this chapter. Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoys a stunning location at the foot of the Wetterstein range.bahn. The Bayerische Zugspitzbahn at Garmisch (% 08821/7970) provides rail service to the top of the Zugspitze and other local peaks. take the A95 Autobahn and exit at Eschenlohe. to 6 p.

306 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 25 rooms are comfortable without a lot of frills. . % 08821/9270.m. MC. enjoying the panoramic views of the Alps and the colorful buildings that line the side streets. try a soufflé. V. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). % 08821/943040. Rates include buffet breakfast. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). See map p. with wooden balconies. some with a private balcony. are small but very comfortable. MC. See map p. See map p. Am Kurpark 10. Fax: 08821/18974. musicians.m. The food is hearty and uncomplicated: potato soup with wurst. pork cutlets. grilled salmon.–2:30 p. Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a center for winter sports. and duck. Hotel Hilleprandt $ –$$ Garmisch This chalet. Gasthof Fraundorfer $ –$$ Partenkirchen BAVARIAN Visitors to Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoy this large restaurant because every evening yodelers. Open: Daily except Tuesday 11 a. V.hotel-hilleprandt. summer hiking. MC. Rates include buffet breakfast. Fax: 08821/74548. AE. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. www. and so are fresh trout. each has a small bathroom with tub or shower. Rates: 78€–112€ ($97–$140) double. The tiled bathrooms have either showers or tub-shower combinations. and a backdrop of forest-covered mountains. AE. The best way to explore this international resort is simply to stroll around the town and its environs. Rates: 70€–90€ ($87–$112) double. It’s a touristy scene but fun. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The 13 rooms. Ludwigstrasse 24. The hotel is close to the Zugspitze Bahnhof and the Olympic Ice Stadium. V. Riffelstrasse 17. Traditional Bavarian and Mediterranean specialties are on the menu. 307. Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Alpenhof $ –$$ Garmisch BAVARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Locals regard the Alpenhof as one of the finest restaurants in Garmisch. Closed 3 weeks in Nov. 307. % 08821/9130. and ragout of venison. 307.–11:30 p. an outdoor terrace. % 08821/59055. and 5–10 p. For dessert. a pretty garden. is an excellent budget choice. Reservations recommended. Ludwigstrasse 65. Open: Daily 11:30 a. www. and dancers provide Bavarian entertainment. V.m. ham hocks with sauerkraut. See map p. and mountain climbing. MC. Reservations recommended. Children younger than 6 stay free in their parents’ room.m.

688m (5. The ice rinks are open to the public daily (except from the middle of May through June) from 10 a. St . alst lent r. Like the ice stadium. Rathausplatz str. burgHinden s trasse s o p henw e nch g sse stra ne r.000 spectators. Riffe 2 3 Kla mm str. str 5 eld r. this ski facility opened in 1936 and remains an integral part of winter life in Garmisch. Pr rs t ei n str.M To Zugspitze Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt Munich Built for the 1936 Winter Olympics. Zugspitzbahn inlstr.m.m. 2.Kongresshaus .2 km 0. enjoy nature. r n st Höl r.20€ ($2. ar tin s str. 6 ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Hilleprandt 2 Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren 5 DINING Alpenhof 1 Gasthof Fraundorfer 4 ATTRACTIONS Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum 3 Olympia-Skistadion 6 Church Information i Post Office Railway 0 0 0. lst t st S t. r. on Sat and Sun). 1. is the Jagdschloss Schachen Kr a ig s dw Lu str.St str. and watch animals in the forest. spitz r. . str. Alpine hiking is a major summertime attraction. or “high ways”). People come from around the world to roam the mountain paths (called Hohenwege.2 mi .75) for children 6 to 15. Bahnhof Par tn ch tna Pa r ch a u a ss ra A lps p it z e - ü ll e z-M Frit r eito Dr Garmisch-Partenkirchen str.. rst ad Lo Z ug r. t s r platz z t spi et W rt Pa isa e s tr.En Lo zianen Kurhaus Straussstr. gst er te chna ar tin -S Sc ho en str. s trasse fs ho hn Ba tr. On the slopes at the edge of town is the Olympia-Skistadion (Olympic Ski Stadium). Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. - rt Ma Bayerische Str.Chamonix.S To Jagdschloss Schachen/ Eckbauer/ Partnachklamm Gorge tr. One hiking destination. to noon (also 2–4 p. wig L ud 4 n So nb ne r.628 ft. om rk Platz a p m Am K u r er s 1 Marien. mst up str. ru g PARK ch Von-B h i c isa Richard. KUR. p ia Klam tr. M H au p t- P h il o Mü winkelst r. the Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum (Olympic Ice Stadium.) above Garmisch-Partenkirchen and accessible only by foot (the climb is strenuous). fstr nho Bah Ol y m Ach tr.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 307 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Herbst Alte Kirche Bu rgstr. The World Cup Ski Jump takes place here every January 1. % 08821/753-294) in Garmisch contains three giant skating rinks with stands for 12. with two ski jumps and a slalom course. tr. enf a int Re Ha .

).m. 32€ ($39) for youths 16 and 17. the Gletscherbahn. to 2:35 p. During the same season. past giant boulders and rushing streams. these concerts move to the Partenkirchen bandstand.m. the “dream king.” in 1871. from early June to early October. you can go all the way to the summit of the Zugspitze. At the Zugspitzplatte. The tourist office in GarmischPartenkirchen (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) can supply further details. You can choose between two different ways to reach the Zugspitze from the center of Garmisch. both involving a ride on a cog railway and a cable car: ߜ The first way begins with a trip on the Zugspitzbahn (cog railway). which departs from the back of Garmisch’s main railway station daily every hour from 8:35 a. Brauhausstrasse 19. Ascending the Zugspitze For a spectacular view of the Bavarian and the Tyrolean (Austrian) Alps. where you find extraordinary panoramas. Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/797-900. 1 p. given at 11 a.m. free for children younger than 14. in July and Aug). From here. for a four-minute ride uphill to the Zugspitzgipfel (summit).m. The round-trip fare is 44€ ($55) for adults.. the Garmisch park bandstand plays host to classical concerts Saturday through Thursday. For more information.308 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08821/2996). a gift shop. The only way to see the lodge is by guided tour (in German only). the cable car carries you to the Zugspitzgipfel. but the king insisted on an elaborately fanciful Moorish-style The stop is next to an alpine lake and clearly marked. Total travel time to the top is about 55 minutes.960m/9. and 27€ ($33) for children ages 6 to 15. a high plateau with sweeping views. Discovering the local nightlife From mid-May through September. You need about four hours to get there and back. to the Zugspitzplatte. and many alpine trails.m. to 4:30 p. and 3 p. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. Check with the local tourist .m. Olympiastrasse 27. you transfer onto a cable car.. On Friday.zugspitze. disembarking 14km (9 miles) southwest of Garmisch at the lower station of the Eibsee Sielbahn (Eibsee Cable Car). Bavarian folk music and dancing take place every Saturday night in the Bayernhalle. The train travels uphill. (5:30 p. The exterior of the lodge resembles a Swiss chalet. A family ticket for two adults and one child costs 100€ ($125). www. a hunting lodge built by Ludwig II. ߜ The second way to get to the summit of the Zugspitze is to take the Zugspitzbahn for a shorter trip.720 ft. The Eibsee Sielbahn makes runs every half-hour from 8:30 a. contact the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn. A round-trip ticket enables you to ascend one-way and descend the other for the widest range of spectacular views. The entire trip takes about 40 minutes. Germany’s tallest mountain (2.m. 2 p.m. a cafe and restaurant.m.

animals. Hinterglas (behind glass) painting. ߜ Tony Baur. Croatia. Performances take place in the Passionspiel Theater. Every ten years. take E533 north and turn west onto B23 at Oberau. Schnitzlergasse 4 (% 08822/4271). A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles A scenic drive through the Emmertal. everything from small figures of saints for 54€ ($67) to jumping jacks with movable legs for 36€ ($45).110€ ($6. and parts of Austria. the next will be in 2010).500m to 1. an art form unique to Bavaria. A shuttle bus runs back and forth between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau daily. 16-act drama depicting Christ’s journey to the Cross every decade since 1680 (the last was in 2000.388). Oberammergau has been famous for its woodcarvers and Hinterglas artists since the 15th century.000. and linden. and folkloric figures. Actors must be natives of or have lived in the town for at least 20 years. Dorfstrasse 27 (% 08822/821).000-ft. the composer lived in Garmisch from 1908 until 1949. the following stores are reliable: ߜ Holzschnitzerei Franz Barthels. the next one will be held in 2010. and in reverse. Most of the carvings are of religious scenes. a valley flanked by 1. Competition is fierce for sales of local woodcarvings made in hamlets and farmhouses throughout the region. Actors first performed the famous Passion play in Oberammergau in 1634 when the town’s citizens took a vow to give thanks for being spared from the plague. is painting done directly on glass. The cast for this religious epic numbers in the hundreds. takes you to Schloss Linderhof . but you also find drinking or hunting scenes. office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) for details about these programs. If you’re coming by car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. pine. The twin towns also play host to a Folklore Week in early August and a five-day Richard Strauss Festival in June.800m (5. If you’re looking for authentic woodcarvings. sells a wide range of 6. Prices start around 11€ ($14) and go up to 5. Locals have performed the 51⁄2-hour.) peaks.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 309 Oberammergau: Woodcarvers and Passion plays An alpine village located 20km (12 miles) north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. has the most-sophisticated inventory of woodcarvings crafted from maple. a crowd from around the world converges on Oberammergau to see the Passionspiele (Passion Play). Passionswiese 1 (% 08822/92310). Know before you buy that even some of the most expensive “handmade” pieces may have been carved by machine prior to being finished off by hand.

thanks in large part to the beauty of its natural setting in the Ammerberge range and its formal French gardens. You can see the palace only by guided tour. including the Grotte (Grotto). turning west on B23 about 5km (3 miles) toward Ettal. The parking fee is 2€ ($2. the Grotto contains an artificial lake fed by an artificial waterfall and a stage hung with a backdrop scene of the first act of Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. and crystal chandeliers. glittering with gold leaf. dazzling-white château overloaded with statues and decorations derived from many different periods and countries. Built of artificial rock.50).50) for adults. mirrors. Exploring Schloss Linderhof In 1869. A sign at the front of the palace tells you what group is currently being admitted.m. Linderhof is not without charm. in which he was rowed about the lake.25) for students and seniors. When your time arrives. the Grotto and other park buildings close. Winter admission is 6€ ($7. King Ludwig II decided to redesign this former royal hunting lodge to resemble the Petit Trianon at Versailles. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. with stalagmites and stalactites dividing the cavelike room into three chambers. The ornate exterior is actually restrained when compared with the interior. The palace and grounds are open April through September daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p. A guide will meet your group outside the castle. which is a riot of neo-rococo flashiness.) Getting there If you’re driving from Munich.75) for adults. For all its ostentation. Your ticket has a specific entry time.. Ludwig kept two swans and a gilded. The rustic lodge was transformed into a small. 6€ ($7. Linderhof is an extremely popular tourist attraction. The original colored-light effects still illuminate the room. feed your ticket through the electronic turnstile to gain entrance. fanciful buildings. so arrive early or you may have a long wait. October through March. Admission in the summer is 7€ ($8. take the Munich–Garmisch Autobahn (A95) south.linderhof. and then drive for 13km (8 miles) on the signposted road. to 4 p. tours in English are available throughout the day. The park contains several small. inspired by the famous Blue Grotto at Capri. but the castle is open daily from 10 a. Linderhof is open year-round and makes a wonderful daytrip from Munich or Garmisch-Partenkirchen. passing the hamlet of Graswang on the way. . the most elaborate of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale palaces. which had artificial waves.m. swan-shaped boat.310 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08822/92030. 5€ ($6.50) for seniors 65 and older and for students.m. On the lake.

Looking south across the lake. In Switzerland and Austria. On the north (German) shore.) Atmospheric old towns such as Freiburg share the forest setting with glamorous resorts like BadenBaden. Vineyards and fruit orchards thrive in the region’s mild. the countries that share its 258km (160 miles) of shoreline. In Germany.) is called the Bodensee. The Bodensee is Germany’s largest and Central Europe’s third-largest lake. In this corner of the country. this 74km-long (46-mile) lake in the foothills of the Alps (elevation 395m/1. you find the Bodensee. The widest point is almost 14km (9 miles) across. vineyards slope down to crowded marinas. one of the great lakes of Europe. (See “The Bodensee [Lake Constance]” map in this chapter. sunny climate. while towns on the lake bask in an almost Mediterranean balminess. and charming old towns bask in the golden sun. Germany’s largest lake ᮣ Discovering the island city of Lindau ᮣ Exploring the Black Forest ᮣ Bathing in Baden-Baden ᮣ Wandering through the medieval town of Freiburg S outhwestern Germany is an area rich in scenic splendor. it’s called Lake Constance. you . The Bodensee (Lake Constance) What is the proper name. Visitors to the Bodensee enjoy the warm climate and stunning scenery.300 ft.Chapter 17 The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights In This Chapter ᮣ Enjoying the Bodensee. you ask: the Bodensee or Lake Constance? Both names are correct. and the legendary Black Forest.

Monday through Friday 9 a. A road bridge and a causeway for walkers and trains connect the town to the mainland.m. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. a lovely island city on the northeastern shore. park in one of the large car parks outside the Altstadt.bsb-online. and the train station is right in the Altstadt across from the harbor. From Lindau. and Lindau. Fierce winds from the mountains occasionally whip up the waters of the Bodensee. Day and overnight tickets for car parks can be purchased from ticket machines. the entire trip takes three hours. Basel.bahn.) A profusion of gardens gives the town a quasi-Mediterranean air. is open April through October. take the A96 Autobahn and then B31 into Lindau. across from the train station. You even find subtropical vegetation growing in sheltered gardens. Italy. makes a good place to stay. Konstanz (% 07531/ 3640-398). but for the most part the lake is placid. By train. to 6 p. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. the newer part of Lindau spreads out to the mainland. Lindau: Sunny island charmer The historic island-town of Lindau. and Switzerland. Lindau is a popular tourist destination that feels a bit like an Italian resort. After you cross the causeway. Several ferries per day link Konstanz with Lindau. occupies a small island in the lake (accessible by a causeway).m. www.. flower-bedecked squares and a harborside promenade. and Hafenstrasse 6. So many historic buildings line its narrow streets that the entire town is a protected landmark. because you won’t be able to drive into the historic center. and for hundreds of years the town was a center of trade between Bavaria. A town of pretty. The Altstadt. or Old Town. snow-capped Alps. Getting to Lindau Lindau is one of the Bodensee’s major transportation hubs. Lindau is on a major rail line. Check with the tourist office in Lindau or contact Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. www. you can get direct connections to Lindau from you can travel by boat to towns in Austria and Switzerland and to Konstanz on the western side of the lake. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. Saturday .com). was founded in the ninth century. follow B310 and B308 west. If you’re driving from Füssen. For information and train schedules. stopping at Meersburg and Mainau.312 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany see the towering. Prague. By car from Munich. Ludwigstrasse 68 (% 08382/260030. located 179km (111 miles) southwest of Munich at the northeastern corner of the Bodensee. Schützingerweg 2. turning south on B12 (Kemptenstrasse). Finding information and taking a tour The Lindau tourist information office.

NET H. L UX. S W I T Z E R L A N D Rorschach Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest R ANCE F RANC E Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Staad Bregenz A U S T R I A The Bodensee (Lake Constance) 313 S WI SW ITZ TZ. A US TRIA AU S TRI A . LU X. BEL . am Main Frankfurt Arbon CZECH C ZECH RE P.0 5 mi 5 km B34 0 Weingarten Ravensburg Ferry Üb erl ing er Se Überlingen Markdorf B32 B33 e B31 Radolfzell G E R M A N Y To Munich Airport E43 E54 Zelle rsee Mainau Immenstaad B30 B31 Reichenau Untersee Tettnang Eriskirch B467 Gn B33 ade nse e Meersburg Wangen B12 Konstanz Friedrichshafen B32 D EN M AR K MA RK B o Kressbronn B12 Hamburg d Langenargen Deutsche Alpenstrasse Berlin Romanshorn e n Wasserburg Lindau B308 B308 POLAND N E TH . REP. GERMANY s e e BE L. .

% 08382/704-242) provides halfhourly service to all parts of Lindau daily from early morning until 10:40 p. Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten $$ –$$$$ Altstadt One of the nicest places to stay on the Bodensee is the upscale lakeside Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten. from April through October. call Taxi-Ring-Zentrale (% 0800-60066666) or Lindauer Funk-Taxi (% 08382/4455). The location is an easy walk from the lake and casino. AE. The rooms are up-to-date and furnished in a functional. two connected buildings with 64 rooms between them. www. % 08382/93410. Monday through Friday 9 a. and sauna. located at the end of the causeway. some with lake views. V. The group meets in front of the tourist office.m. MC. outdoor pool. Staying in Lindau Lindau is a tourist-oriented resort town. The small. modern style with lots of light.hotel-garni-brugger. If you want a taxi.m. the island part of Lindau. All three buildings share a lakefront garden with sunbathing areas. Rates: 86€–92€ ($107–$115) double. is flat and easily walkable. . 88131 Lindau. More luxurious is the adjacent Hotel Bayerischer Hof.314 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Sunday 9:30 a. The Lindau Stadtbus (city bus.. comfortable. contact BodenseeSchiffsbetriebe (% 08382/2754810). Larger rooms with small sitting areas are in an older building (a glass-roofed conservatory connects the two). DC. is the best affordable choice in Lindau. For information on boat trips around the Bodensee. to 4 p. to noon and 2 to 5 p. fitness center. The décor is modern in both.m. Getting around Lindau The charming Altstadt. the cost is 4€ ($5). Its harborside kiosk has excursion information and timetables. The Reutemann has large rooms and bathrooms with showers and big tubs. part of the same management. Some open onto a rear balcony. Bei der Heidenmauer 11.m. Fax: 08382/ 4133. tiled bathrooms have showers (two rooms have tubs and showers). The Seegarten has flower-filled balconies and spacious rooms.m. November through March. 315. Rates include continental breakfast.m. See map p. so hotels in all price categories are available. located right on the harbor promenade. Hotel-Garni Brugger $ Altstadt This welcoming 23-room hotel. You can join a guided walking tour on Monday (in English) or Tuesday and Friday mornings (in German) at 10

erg rb Fä Sch ütz Lu Hauptbahnhof z S ro eep n ho eg i 15 me dw ig ing erw s tr se as Brettermark Rüberplatz t 16 na de 17 18 Bu rgga sse Dreierstrasse ertu en Hintere Insel Ludwigstra sse rmw Ba h eg Reichsplatz Ling teg msse Dam gas Pulverturm - Uferweg nilia 9 xim Ma 10 Fi s c her- Barfüsserplatz ga s s e 7 Schrannenplatz . iespl P arad Z e pp e l in fpl at Hamburg Berlin 19 Se e ha f e n Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest ATTRACTIONS Altes Rathaus 10 Diebsturm 7 Löwenmole 19 Mangturm 17 Maria Himmelfahrt 14 Neuer Leuchtturm 20 Peterskirche 8 Römerschanze 18 Spielbank 6 Stadtmuseum 12 Stadtpark 4 St. Kron ngasse e .1 km Eisen ba ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Bayerischer Hof 15 Hotel-Garni Brugger 5 Hotel Reutemann/ Hotel Seegarten 16 hnda 3 Ch e Rollschuhplatz Heidenm lle s-A lle e Rotkreuz Platz 4 DINING Hoyerberg Schlössle 2 RestaurantWeinstube Frey 9 Zum Sünfzen 11 8 rgeebe e Schn gass Au GROLL f W de ANLAGEN all m OSCAR- 6 Thiersch strasse gstr asse au asse er 5 zigerstr Zwan Auf der Mauer Alter Schulsse Schmiedga platz 13 r Grub e d n I er Kirchplatz msse MarktCra ga 12 platz 14 A L T S T A D T Stiftsplatz Strasse 11 Bindergasse sse stra g.0 0.1 mi 1 mm K l e i n e r S e eb rü ck e 2 Se e 0 0. mm Kru elg Ins Pulv rab Da mm g. Stephan 13 Strandbad Eichwald 3 Strandbad Lindenhofbad 1 20 Information i G ER M ANY Frankfurt B o d e n s e e Lighthouse Post office Railway Munich Lindau Lindau 315 .

at Lindau-Aeschach.. Reservations recommended.bayerischerhof-lindau. with a view of the mountains and lake. Maximilianstrasse 15. DC. Main courses: 22€–35€ ($27–$44). located on the mainland about a 15-minute drive from the Altstadt. and 6–10 p. % 08382/9150. Reservations required in the restaurant.m. not required in the cafe. DC. take Langenweg and Friedrichshafener Strasse northwest to Hoyerbergstrasse.) % 08382/25295. has few rivals on the Bodensee. Zum Sünfzen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/BAVARIAN This old restaurant at the east end of Maximilianstrasse serves good.–2:30 www. Open: Daily 10:30 a.m. See map p. V. Closed Jan 15–Feb 28. The first-floor cafe is more informal.–11 p. cafe Tues–Sat 2–4:30 p. Dining in Lindau Hoyerberg Schlössle $$$$ Mainland CONTINENTAL The Hoyerberg Schlössle. 315. Maximilianstrasse 1.316 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Children younger than 10 stay free. 315. to pepper steaks. Rates: Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten 116€–210€ ($145–$262) double. Restaurant-Weinstube Frey $ Altstadt GERMAN The oldest Stubl (drinking and dining room) on Maximilianstrasse. MC. The breakfast buffet is an additional 16€ ($20). local perch stuffed with herbs. Open: Daily 11 a. Hotel Bayerischer Hof 152€–291€ ($190–$364). MC. . AE. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). % 08382/5278. dependable food at reasonable prices. 88131 Lindau. You can dine inside or out. You can drive to these hotels and park in the underground garage. % 08382/5865.m. (From the causeway. MC. and saddle of venison with flour dumplings and French beans. Menu offerings vary seasonally but may typically include cream of scampi soup. and roast pork with homemade Spätzle to filet of venison. You may want to sample the local Meersburger wines as you dine on chicken breast with raspberry sauce. See map p. V. trout baked in a potato crust. See map p.m. Hoyerbergstrasse 64. Frey’s has outdoor tables on the pedestrian street and a small second-floor restaurant with a beamed ceiling and pleasantly old-fashioned ambience.m.m. Main dishes: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Open: Restaurant Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. See map p. Dishes range from schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). and 5–11:30 p. 315. Seepromenade. Fax: 08382/915591. or spinach Spätzle (a potato-based pasta) baked with cheese and ham. beef stroganoff. AE. Meals here are a memorable experience. DC.m. Fresh fish from the Bodensee is a specialty.m. 315. and baby-sitting can be arranged. Fixed-price menus: 62€–79€ ($77–$98). V. AE. No credit cards.

m. admission 1.–5 p. Peter’s Church. to 5 p.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 317 Exploring Lindau Lindau is best enjoyed by simply taking a couple of hours to stroll around the Altstadt..m. orchestral instruments. is the most attractive on the whole of the Bodensee. Rising from the promenade at the edge of the harbor is the 13th-century tower called the Mangturm. square tower. completed in 1856.m. Continuing east on Maximilianstrasse and Cramergasse brings you to the Marktplatz (Market Square) with a pretty. has .m.m.m. Lindau’s main pedestrian-only thoroughfare. thousands of lights create a magical atmosphere around the harbor. the Peterskirche (St.. Flanking the harbor entrance is the 19th-century Neuer Leuchtturm (lighthouse) and the Löwenmole. the name derives from the laundry.75€/$2. Stephan. erected in 1422 and notable for its grandly painted facade of a princely procession. The interior.). In 1928. 18th-century baroque town house called the Haus zum Cavazzen. the town’s famous harbor. Located just north of Maximilianstrasse. You can climb up the narrow spiral staircase of the lighthouse (open daily 9:30 a. Saturday from 2 to 5 p. once used as a council hall.– 5 p. On the east side of Marktplatz stand side-by-side Lutheran and Catholic churches. but in the 16th century the building received a Renaissance face-lift. The tower is not open to the public. In a stately. houses the centuries-old town library (not open to the general public). is the city’s most famous landmark. % 08382/ 944-073). Built around 1370 at the most westerly point of the old town wall. Admission is 2€ ($2. you find the Stadtmuseum (Town Museum. or “mangle house. The building’s stepped gables are typical of the 15th-century Gothic style.D. tin and ceramic objects.m. A rectangular building with a flat wooden ceiling and a tall. the church was built around A.” that once stood beside the tower. paintings.50). Successive eras saw the additions of other architectural styles. the church became a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of World War I. At night. Return to Maximilianstrasse and follow the street eastward to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). and historical toys. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. open daily 9 a. A special attraction is the collection of mechanical musical instruments. St. silverware. 1000. and mechanical pianos. the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower).m. and sculptures. The interior walls have late-15th-century frescoes by Hans Holbein the Elder. and Sunday from 11 a.) Located almost directly across from the main train station.m.. a pillar with a sculpted lion (the symbol of Bavaria) looking out over the lake. Standing beside the Diebsturm on Schrannenplatz is Lindau’s oldest building. The museum is open April through September Tuesday to Friday from 11 a. including barrel organs. The museum contains a large collection of furniture (ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau). glassware.25) for a panoramic vista of the Swiss and Austrian Alps across the water. flower-bedecked fountain in the center. to 5 p. this round tower with projecting upper turrets and oriel windows once served as the town jail (hence its name). the Lutheran church on the left.

m. is full of baroque decoration and has a frescoed ceiling.50) for children.m. Admission to the beach is 3€ ($3. The biggest beach is Strandbad Eichwald (% 08283/5539). Maria Himmelfahrt (Church of the Ascension). Römerschanze (% 08283/6830). pronounced strahndbod) are open in summer Monday through Friday from 10:30 a. to 8 p.” later in this chapter).m.m. to 7:30 p. The third beach. is located in Lindenhof Park on the mainland. this beach charges 2. Strandbad Lindenhofbad (% 08283/6637). Admission is 2. Chelles Allee 1 (% 08382/27740). and Saturday from 9:30 a. to 1 p.75) for adults. to 5 p.318 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany a barrel-vaulted ceiling and a fairly bare interior.25).m. to 7 p. you come to the waterside Stadtpark (City Park) with its modern Spielbank (casino). 2 to Anheggerstrasse.m. Three lakeside beaches (a beach is a Strandbad. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. 1 or no. 4 to Alwind. in the train station.50) for children.m. makes for a pleasant daytrip from Lindau. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.50€ ($3.m. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.50€ ($3) for adults. with a grassy lakeside area and three heated swimming pools. on the mainland. is the most scenic area for biking.) If you’re driving through this part of southern Germany.. famed for its subtropical gardens.50€ ($2) for children. the Catholic church on the right. and from 2 to 6 p. a smaller beach popular with families. pronounced farahd) and go cycling along the shores of the Bodensee. 2€ ($2.m. Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau The island of Mainau. on the mainland. The location is about a halfhour walk east along Uferweg. then bus no. Continuing east from Marktplatz on Schmiedgasse. you can play slot machines from noon to 2 a. casino). Admission is 2. to 2 a. and a passport is required as proof of age. you may want to stop at Mainau on your way to or from Freiburg in the Black Forest (see “Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books.m. Taking a turn at the tables At Lindau’s glitzy Spielbank (shpeel-bank. Enjoying lakeside activities For as little as 10€ ($13) you can rent a bike (Fahrrad. is located next to Lindau harbor in the Altstadt.50€ ($3) for adults and 1. west of the causeway. Fahrrad-Station-Lindau (% 08382/21261). and women. The bike-rental office.m. 3 to Karmelbuckel. or take bus no. . Lindenhofpark.m. take bus no.m. To reach it. The churches generally are open from 8 a. something dressy. and blackjack and roulette from 3 p. Appropriate attire is a cut above casual: Men should wear a jacket and tie.m. 2€ ($2.

not all of them stop at Mainau.. citrus and fruit trees. costs 31€ ($39). Casual dining options include the Butterfly Bistro (open 10 a. Admission includes the gardens. in an arm of the Bodensee known as the Überlingersee. hours are 7 a.bsb-online.m.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 319 Getting to Mainau Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe.m. so check before boarding.m.m.m. Admission is 12€ ($15) for adults. where palms and orange trees grow and fragrant flowers bloom year-round. would later develop. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. From April through mid-October. which features seasonal specialties such as asparagus in the spring. You can also drive west from Lindau to Meersburg. Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden purchased the island as a summer residence.m.–8 p. he laid the foundations for the Arboretum. In 1853. 31€ ($25) for family (parents and children up to 15). This is the best (and only) way to see Mainau. the Rose Garden. tens of thousands of tulips in the spring. to 8 p. a roundtrip Kombiticket. from 8:30 a. to dusk. and game dishes in the fall. and Konstanz. on the lake’s north rhododendrons. which includes admission at Mainau.m. provides daily passenger service by boat between Lindau.–10 p.. A one-way fare from Lindau to Mainau is 11€ ($14). Service is less frequent on Saturdays. and easily walk through Mainau. The island’s culinary high point is the Schwedenschenke (% 07531/303-156. From March 24 through October 24.m.–6 p. Count Lennart Bernadotte. If you’re driving. and the Orangery. A passionate plant lover. Palms. you can park and leave your car in Meersburg. Schützingerweg 2. orchids. chanterelle mushrooms in late summer. Generally. gardens that his great-grandchild. azaleas. and roses in the summer fill the gardens.2km (21⁄2-mile) crossing (one per hour through the night) to Konstanz. the largest city on the Bodensee. the current owner of this 110-acre botanical wonderland.) and the Castle Café (open 11 a. Mainau. 11€ ($14) for seniors older than 65. winter hours are 9 a. several places on the island are open daily for dining or a quick snack.90€ ($5) for children. the Palm House.) .m. open 11 a. Sundays. The baroque castle that forms the centerpiece of the island once was a residence of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. 3. and an exhibition on Lake Constance in the castle.m. www. Visiting the island of Mainau The semitropical island of Mainau. The island has a Mediterranean luxuriance that invites leisurely strolling. lies 6km (4 miles) north of Konstanz. and catch a car-ferry to Mainau. to 11 p. because cars are restricted on the island. The island’s gardens are open daily year-round.m. and holidays. two ferries per hour make the 4. hop on the ferry. Contact Autofähre Konstanz-Meersburg (% 07531/803666) for information and schedules. the Butterfly House. Butterflies from throughout the world flit and flutter through the Butterfly House.

mainau. look for Zwetchgentorte (plum pastry). The name “Black Forest” is a translation of the Latin Silva Nigra. One of the most popular auto trips is from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt on the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse (Black Forest High Road. You can easily reach Baden-Baden and Freiburg. about 145km (90 miles) long and 40km (25 miles) wide. the two towns I recommend as overnights. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. and cuckoo clocks. long associated with legends. B500). meat and fowl dishes with creamy sauces. by train. and pretty spots where stressedout city dwellers take die Kur (the cure) at health resorts fill the pineand spruce-filled forest. come to two cities in particular: Baden-Baden. which serves as a boundary with Switzerland to the south and France to the west. however. The famous cake is one of the specialties of a region that’s something of a culinary crossroads. Visitors with limited time generally skip the area’s cure and sports aspects and focus instead on the scenic pleasures of the Schwarzwald. Villages with half-timbered buildings. From cake to sausage: Black Forest treats Maybe you’ve heard of that famous thick. which runs almost the entire length of the forest. amid nature. If you want to sample other regional specialties. or Black Forest. call % 07531/3030 or visit www. the name given to the forest by Romans some 2. legend-filled forest is a favorite place to spend holidays outdoors. which dominates the southwestern corner of Germany. runs parallel to the Rhine. hiking trails. and the medieval university town of Freiburg. Schwarzwald Schinken (Black Forest smoked ham). The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Travelers to the Schwarzwald (schvahrtz-vald).000 years ago. and wild game such as venison and boar. a spa resort with thermal waters and an elegant casino. . The Bodensee (Lake Constance) adjoins the forest to the east. You can explore the Black Forest in many ways. chocolatey cake flavored with cherry preserves and called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cherry Cake).de. fairy tales.) For the Germans themselves. the mountainous.320 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For more information. Most restaurants make their own Hauswurst (sausage) and guard the recipe. Having a car opens up more of the countryside. The Black Forest. Give yourself at least two hours to explore and enjoy the island. Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart). Why did they call it that? Because from a distance the dark green pine and fir trees look black. The forest’s proximity to France and Switzerland has influenced the cooking you find in many Black Forest restaurants.

Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 321 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Durmersheim 0 10 mi Haguenau M er Brumath Weyersheim 36 A4 Canal de la Marne au Rhin Willgottheim Marlenheim Rheinau 500 Rh ine Pfaffenhoffen N 0 10 km Bouxwiller Mountain Malsch To Pforzheim Kuppenheim Gaggenau BadenBaden 462 294 Strasbourg Molsheim A840 A35 3 od To Calw A5 Bühl Achern Raumündzach Oberkirch 28 Barr Neuried 36 Offenburg FRANCE in 83 Freudenstadt Rhine Rh Gengenbach Ettenheim 3 500 462 du Selestat Rh ône I ll au Alpirsbach Zell am Harmersbach Wolfach Waldmössingen nal 468 Ca Elsenheim Muntzenheim Herbolzheim Kenzingen 294 33 Hornberg 462 Dunningen Zimmern Triberg A5 Waldkirch Kandel Triberger Wasserfälle Furtwangen A81 Freiburg im Breisgau Hirtzfelden Bad Krozingen Staufen Badenweiler 3 St. Peter Schwenningen St. Märgen 500 A864 31 Donaueschingen Titisee Hüfingen Löffingen Schauinsland Hinterzarten Feldberg Bernau Lenzkirch Blumberg Bonndorf 314 Belchen Todtnau 317 Schluchsee 500 Häusern Kandern A5 Zell im Wiesental Hornberg A98 Hamburg Berlin A35 WaldshutTiengen E GERMANY Frankfurt am Main C Lörrach Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Rh Pratteln SWITZERLAND FR Basel Döttingen in e AN .

In the 19th century. about four hours. To get into the center of town.–1 p.m. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. For train information. For those with a car. Both offices offer a free hotelbooking service. It has a complete schedule of events and information on town and regional attractions.. Located 174km (108 miles) south of Frankfurt in the northern portion of the Black Forest.baden-baden.–6 p. The horseracing season at nearby Iffezheim. on Schwarzwaldstrasse 52 (the B500 road into town. who come to hike. from Frankfurt. The town has the most up-to-date spa facilities in Germany. Baden-Baden still evokes that aura of 19th-century privilege.m). If you’re not into a health regimen or interested in gambling. and Sunday 2 to 5 p.000 years. Finding information The tourist information office in the Trinkhalle. The drive south from Frankfurt takes about two hours.m. If you’re driving into town. The thermal springs bubbling up from beneath the town have been healing aches and pains for more than 2.m. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter. Sun 9 a. Trip time from Munich is about four hours.m. you may find Baden-Baden a bit boring-boring. The personalities of the day — artists like Berlioz.m. Even the Roman emperor Caracalla traveled to this part of the Black Forest to get some relief from his arthritis. open Mon–Sat 9 a. and Dostoevsky — also helped to make Baden-Baden the most elegant and sophisticated playground in Germany. takes place in August. . about 5km (3 miles) north of town. same phone. The Bahnhof (railway station) is at Baden-Oos.322 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town Baden-Baden is one of the world’s most famous spa resorts. and people still flock here to soak and be healed of various ailments and to try their luck in the famous casino. from Munich. you can easily access a second tourist office outside the center.) Getting to Baden-Baden You can easily reach Baden-Baden by train from anywhere in Germany. Kaiser Allee 3 (% 07221/ 275-200. the A5 Autobahn between Basel and Frankfurt runs north–south through the entire region. you take bus no. always available in front of the station. is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. play tennis. European nobility and clients such as Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm I rediscovered Baden-Baden’s waters.m. bahn. one of the summer sporting events in and Napoleon III gave the town a glamorous new aristocratic cachet. The composition of the slightly radioactive mineral water is almost the same today as when the Romans built the first bath complexes here in the third century. connecting Baden-Baden to about three hours. Baden-Baden attracts many sports and outdoor enthusiasts. to 5 p. 201 or a taxi. www. and ride horses. Brahms. golf. and the A8 Autobahn runs east–west.

ass tr. Hindenburgplatz e rs tr. . Hir s Schloßs e trass r lmstr Wilhe . 6 m sstrass e i 3 e . strasse 12 ichstras se Sephanie- Lichtentaler Allee ss e Oosbach Kais er- W il h elm - e LudwigWilhelmPlatz 14 1515 St ra r Fried lerst rass Schil 16 Gausplatz Bertholdstrasse Bertholdplatz e Frem r rgst rsbe asse Hamburg Berlin nel i Information 0.2 km Mi cha elstu n Lic ta en ht 0 0 GER M AN Y Frankfurt rA ll e e BadenBaden ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel am Markt 5 Der Kleine Prinz 15 Hotel Belle Epoque 16 DINING Der Kleine Prinz 15 Münchner Löwenbräu 4 Park-Restaurant 14 Peter’s Gute Backstube 7 Stahlbad 13 ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss 1 Caracalla-Therme 2 Friedrichsbad 3 Kunsthalle 11 Kurgarten 8 Kurhaus 10 Lichtentaler Allee 12 Spielbank 9 Trinkhalle 6 Ha Munich rd äc ke rs Mic haelstunnel e Lang Vin cen tist rass e ns is e Lu lee ral ise Ka e Sch iben sse stra V in c rasse tist en 9 8 R e t tigstras se Kr e u asse Merkurstr sse stra Eich 13 Hardstra s s e Lic 11 sse tra hte nta ler Str ass e Ludwig-Wilh e l m- S t ra sse le . str n i rS e Ste h ac Str 4 rnsb a sse tra Ge e Jesuitensse rass nst platz hie p o S 7 . r A . t r. lstr LeopoldsInse platz ßs ch str 5 Marktplatz 2 Sc h l o Sol W er d er s tr a sse We rd ras erst se 10 Goetheplatz zs t r.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 323 1 Baden-Baden Sch ütze Sc ger sb os el hl nn Tu Festspielhaus La ng asse nstr We tz eS Leop oldst r tra asse t els Ka p rs t ra ine uz zin Gö tt ss e Ka pu eng .2 mi 0.D ür e ras sse se t -S .

74€–80€ ($92–$100) double with bathroom. Try one of the tasting menus. MC. and menu offerings change daily. You can begin with assorted appetizers. 323 In the hotel Der Kleine Prinz. Tasting menus: 57€–75€ ($71–$94). Open: Daily noon to 2 p. connects the railway station to most of the sites in town. which runs at ten-minute intervals. Dining in Baden-Baden Der Kleine Prinz $$$ FRENCH/REGIONAL The restaurant in the hotel Der Kleine Prinz (“The Little Prince”) is one of the finest in the entire modest. Münchner Löwenbräu $ –$$ GERMAN/BAVARIAN This restaurant serves simple. Lichtentaler Strasse 36. MC. Many kinds of German sausage are on the menu with Bavarian specialties and a wide selection of cheeses. there’s a little cafe in front. the rooms are comfortable (not all have private bathrooms). DC. Rates include continental breakfast. and well-prepared food in two settings: on a romantic terrace beneath linden trees or in an indoor dining room with curved glass walls. 76530 Baden-Baden. go on to stuffed rabbit with mushrooms and homemade noodles. this 27-room hotel epitomizes the kind of small. move on to duck-liver parfait with salad. Rates: 58€–62€ ($72–$77) double with toilet only. See map p. followed by a fish soup with dumplings. Main courses: 17€–29€ ($21–$36). and inexpensive. Bus no. See map p. family-run hostelry you can still find all over Germany. AE. % 07221/27-04-0. Hotel am Markt $ Clean.hotel-am-markt-baden. Bus: 201. V. and 7–10 p. affordable.50). you can walk everywhere. Everything is homemade from the best and freshest local ingredients. and the location on Marktplatz is quiet and convenient. Bus: 201. AE. V. and finish with fresh strawberries and homemade ice cream. 201. Although there is nothing grand or glamorous about it. purchase tickets from the driver or from ticket machines at bus stops. 323. A one-way fare is 2€ ($2. Fax: 07221/ 27-04-44. Regional .324 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting around Baden-Baden After you arrive in Baden-Baden. www. and a meal in the intimate dining room served by the highly polished but friendly staff is a memorable experience. % 07221/3464. Staying in Baden-Baden See also Chapter 22 for descriptions of the outstanding Der Kleine Prinz ($$$–$$$$) and Hotel Belle Epoque ($$$–$$$$). Marktplatz 18.m.

although the atmosphere is like a fast-food restaurant. AE. this restaurant with a garden terrace is a tranquil and charming place to dine. Bus: 201. % 07221/22311.75). so it’s good to know about this inexpensive cafe on busy Leopoldsplatz.) The pace is relaxed. Sophienstrasse 10–12. Open: Daily 7–9:30 p.m. % 07221/392-817.50) is very good. 323. quickly served food. Stahlbad $$$ –$$$$ CONTINENTAL/ALSATIAN In the center of town. % 07221/9000. a slice of pizza. Open: Mon–Fri 6:30 a. fresh fish.m.–7 p.50€–18€ ($8–$22). I also recommend stopping for a slice of afternoon Kuchen (cake). See map p. Park-Restaurant $$$$ INTERNATIONAL/RHINELAND This fancy.m. DC.m.m. try the lemon-grass mousse. warm gooseliver with Calvados sauce. % 07221/24569. to midnight. mugs. Bus: 201. Augustaplatz 2. Specialties include sautéed gooseliver. DC.m. the coffee (all you can drink for 2€/$ 2. For dessert. Bus: 201. Duck in here for a breakfast of eggs and ham. Gernsbacher Strasse 9 (in the Altstadt). antique pewter plates. evoke an earlier era. V. copper vessels. try the apple fritters. Peter’s Gute Backstube $ PIZZA/LIGHT MEALS Restaurants in Baden-Baden tend to be pricey. high-priced restaurant in the glamorous Brenner’s Park Hotel is one of the renowned hotel dining rooms of Europe and received a Michelin star in 2006. and engravings.75). and grilled lobster and fish. Main courses: 15€–30€ ($19–$37). 323. Specialties include pepper steak and seasonal game dishes.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 325 devotees order pork knuckles fresh from the grill. For dessert. 323. Exploring Baden-Baden When it comes to tourist destinations. and 6–10 p.. 323. V. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter.–7 p. along with seafood and regional Rhine Valley foods. See map p. AE. DC.m. MC.25–$8.–6 p. Baden-Baden isn’t a demanding town. Sat 6:30 a. MC.m. roast saddle of venison or lamb. The emphasis is on French dishes. Sun 8 a. Open: Daily 10 a. V. with major museums and important historic sights that you must see. See map p. No credit cards. including prints. In Brenner’s Park Hotel. . Schillerstrasse 4.. AE. The atmosphere and décor. and lobster salad.m. Bus: 201. Open: Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. Pete’s can’t be beat for cheap. Main courses: 32€–42€ ($40–$52). Reservations required. The restaurant also has a popular beer garden. Main courses: 6. or a lunchtime sandwich. Main courses: Breakfast 5€–7€ ($6.m. Reservations required. See map p. sandwiches: 3€ ($3.

The City-Bahn (% 07221/991-998. Germany’s oldest casino. poker. which also contain roulette. and other games. Guests can play French and American roulette. The train runs daily from 9:30 a. Marlene Dietrich.50€ ($3. to noon).75). in the vaulted cellars of the Kurhaus in attractive new rooms. and ornamental trees set along the bank of the narrow Oosbach River (called the Oos. baccarat. the glamorous German film star. . in operation for more than 200 years. to about 5 p. Tickets cost 5€ ($6. and the left wing houses a large. classy evening wear. English commentary is available on a headset. The various casino rooms were designed in the style of an elegant French château. and noon (Oct–Mar 10 a. The Kurhaus does not. used for receptions and galas. The time-honored center of activity is Lichtentaler Allee.000€ ($12. “The most beautiful casino in the whole world is in Baden-Baden — and I have seen them all.m. blackjack.” You can see for yourself by visiting the famous BadenBaden Spielbank (casino). and gas lights lit and extinguished by hand every day. Lichtentaler Allee. lavish restaurant with a terrace overlooking the gardens with their shop-lined colonnades.” where the rich and prominent came to see and be seen. Maximum bets are 10. The site has remained the hub of Baden-Baden’s social scene ever since. Admission is 3€ ($3. the building was a “Promenade House.m. and other spots. you can take a guided tour of the historic gaming rooms daily. a very recent addition. contain spa facilities. Men must wear jackets and ties. Originally. You find slot machines. concert shell. pronounced ohs). women.) This casino is definitely not the kind of glitzy. once remarked. The casino is open for gambling daily from 2 is a sightseeing train that makes stops at all of Baden-Baden’s major attractions. (until 3 a. the right wing of the building is Baden-Baden’s casino (see the next paragraph). as you may think. roses. and bingo machines. If you don’t want to gamble. Kaiserallee 1 (% 07221/21060). The tour costs 4€ ($5). making stops at the Kurhaus.500). the Caracalla Baths. the Kurhaus was turned into a “Conversation House. you must possess a valid passport and be at least 21 years old. blackjack. (The Russian writer Dostoevsky wrote The Gambler based on his disastrous experience at the tables here. Arrange in advance for tours in English.10) for children 5 to 15. To enter the casino. I recommend that you visit one of the bath complexes (see “Bathing in Baden-Baden” later in this chapter) and then spend a couple of hours wandering through the Altstadt. an elegant park promenade lined with rhododendrons.” a place for more formal gatherings and events.citybahn.m. one of the town’s most important buildings.326 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and the streets are geared toward pleasurable strolls and upscale shopping. Fri–Sat). between 9:30 a.m.m. www. Minimum bets are 5€ ($6. In the 1820s. At the north end of the promenade are the formally landscaped grounds of the Kurgarten and the neoclassical Kurhaus. slotmachine-haven you find in Las Vegas. azaleas.25) for adults and 2.25). to 2 a.. informal. every 30 minutes. poker.m.

is located on a hillside above town. but the scene is au naturel in the saunas. The building.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 327 In the Kurhaus gardens.). After experiencing the Friedrichsbad. Admission is free. Friedrichsbad. Admission is 12€ ($15) for two hours. dates back to 1877 and follows an ancient Roman-Irish bath method. The complete bath program. (Wed until 8 p. Hochbaden was the seat of the margraves of Baden. to 10 p. rich in sodium chloride.m. The baths also have a sauna area. a ruined castle originally called Hochbaden (High Baden). 29€ ($36) with soap-brush massage (31⁄2 hours). . The facility has a bar and a cafeteria. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-920). Bathing in Baden-Baden Getting into hot water is what Baden-Baden is all about.25) for adults and 4€ ($5) for students. now is used as the main tourist office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Baden-Baden).” Admission is 21€ ($26) for three hours without massage. Kaiserallee 3 (% 07221/275-200). a large hall built in the 1840s. The Altes Schloss (Old Palace).m.m. a brush massage. massages. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-940). Museum Frieder Burda. to 6 p. Medicinal treatment includes mud baths. (last admission is two hours before closing). At the CaracallaTherme (Caracalla Baths). to 10 p. involves a shower. You get a nice view of the town and the Black Forest from this fortresslike structure. Bathers usually begin in cooler pools. you also find the Trinkhalle (Pump Room). You must wear bathing suits in the pools. which takes about three hours. American abstract expressionists. thermal steam baths. “Here at Baden-Baden’s Friedrichsbad you lose track of time in 10 minutes and track of the world in 20. surrounded by an open walkway and decorated with frescoes depicting Black Forest legends.m. Note: Clothes may not be worn in the Friedrichsbad. slightly radioactive waters of Baden-Baden. late works by Picasso) bequeathed by Baden-Baden collector Frieder Burda. followed by a 30-minute period of rest and relaxation.m. The Staatliche Kunsthalle (State Art Gallery).m. The two buildings are open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a. Lichtentaler Allee 8a (% 07221/300-763). you’d better understand what Mark Twain meant when he said. bubbles up from artesian wells at a temperature of about 160°F (70°C).m. and three freshwater baths ranging from warm to 60°F (15°C). and women and men share the pools. a new building designed by Richard Meier and opened in 2005. Admission is 5€ ($6. you decide on your own bath regimen. From the 11th to the 15th centuries. two saunas. The baths are open daily from 9 a. The baths are open daily from 8 a. sits adjacent to the Kunsthalle and houses an impressive collection of modern paintings and sculptures (German expressionists. showcases visiting contemporary art exhibits. working up to the warm water. and whirlpools. completed in 1909. where guests once sipped the salty. The slightly radioactive water.

Freiburg enjoys the benefits of warm air currents that come up from the Mediterranean through Burgundy. Breisgau. Sophienstrasse 26 (% 07221/23955).000 residents (and an additional 30. carries women’s designs in loden-colored wool during autumn and winter. is created by one of Germany’s most emulated designers. and ballets throughout the year. Sophienstrasse 18 (% 07221/390-448). and offers Austrian and Bavarian silks. www. and other locally produced items can be found at Boulevard.. Sophienstrasse 16 (% 07221/29292).and honey-based products such as candles. cooling things down. operas. Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books With a population of about 200. focusing on designers Giorgio Armani and Renee Lazard. Leather goods by Gold Pfiel and other manufacturers are sold at Inka. The hall presents classical music concerts. The best men’s store. are part of a flower-flanked pedestrian zone. wallets. but a cool mountain breeze called the Höllentaler flows down into the town like clockwork twice every night between 7 and 7:30 and 9 and 9:30 p. The building is the second-largest opera and concert hall in Europe.m. Discovering the performing arts in Baden-Baden Baden-Baden’s 2. Beim Alten Bahnhof 2 (% 07221/301-3101. this picturesque city with its medieval Altstadt nestles in a plain below high mountain peaks. Herrenkommode. lined with some of the most expensive boutiques in Germany. Lichtentalerstrasse 13 (% 07221/31090). Only 111km (69 miles) southwest of Baden-Baden. cosmetics. fast-flowing streams called Bächle (little brooks) that run alongside the streets in stone-lined channels are ancient cooling systems. The Altstadt’s splashing fountains and shallow. and handbags. where the inventory includes luggage. Freiburg is the largest city in the Schwarzwald and considered to be its capital. Lichtentaler Strasse 21 (% 07221/24495). puppets. Langestrasse 38 (% 07221/31453). now part of the German state of Baden-Württemberg but once part of the Roman Empire. The town is called Freiburg im (in) Breisgau to distinguish it from other German and Swiss Freiburgs. Another shop. Münchner Moden.500-seat Festspielhaus (Festival Hall). is a historical region stretching from the Rhine to the Black Forest. candies. Cuckoo In the summer. Freiburg bursts with . The women’s wear available at Escada Boutique. Schwarzwald Bienen-Honig-Haus. is a bit more international. the days can get very hot. opened in 1998.000 students). Although surrounded by alpine scenery. and cottons during warmer months.festspielhaus. and wine. linens. plus many varieties of bottled honey. schnapps. This is where you buy those elegant duds required to enter the casino.328 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Baden-Baden Sophienstrasse and Gernsbacher Strasse. carries beeswax.

the smell of new wine fills the narrow streets even as snow is already falling on those nearby summits. Herrens trasse Bert . at g a h a u ssse Rathausplatz Jo - Str as se rass e u c h- i R r mstr1 Sch iffs tr. str. sse tra ns e t r Ga Schreibe rstrasse Dr eis am Wallstrasse neggrin eiffe g Gr torring Schwaben Fa ule rst t st r a ss ALLEEe GARTEN r Strasse Ad e l hauserstr . Holzm ark t on Gerberau Mün gass zSalz nwal e s t ra de r s t r ss e . Joseph- rasse ras se Less ings tras se Kr on en str se as Erbprinzenstr. 8 Augustiner- S ch los sb erg rin g strasse Platz der Alten Ber Synagoge toldstrasse str.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 329 Freiburg Kath strasarinense Heb stras else Meria nstr. a four-day public wine-tasting festival takes place in the Münsterplatz. Mo zart st COLOMBIPARK Au i r. surrounding the city are 1.s tr .1 mi trass ma rk e Colombistr asse - Meria nstr a ss e Eise nba hnst Ga tte ckr ing se ph e Ro olds trass Ka ise r- Un s r s s s it ä t e Sedan - UNIVERSITÄT ivetra A L T S T A D T Gr ü Belfortstra sse Wi Ra m Martinstor pa v iktstr. Hab stras sburgerse alle Fried richs Rheinstr e asse 0 0 0.600 acres of vineyards.1 km 0. Werderring Ma r i e n . Sc hu 2 3 Münsterplatz 4 6 Moltke ste 5 rs t r. more than you find near any other city in Germany. In Freiburg. And winegrowing always requires celebrations. the square outside Freiburg’s magnificent Gothic cathedral. and in autumn. Wine? Yes. on the last weekend in June. Hauptbahnhof stras Jak Bu obStrarckha sse rdt- Bis Ka strarlsse Rosa Friedrich ring se Leo pold STADTGARTEN ring Tu lhe lms tra sse l . fd er Zin ne n Scho ferstr . 7 11 platz 9 9 K SCHLOSSBERG Schwabentor In se 10 Augustinerweg Kartäuserstrasse Kaiser- Luisenst t r a ss Dreisams e Leo-Woh Strasse lebInformation Post office Railway Schillerstrasse ACCOMMODATIONS Rappen 3 Zum Roten Bären 9 DINING Oberkirchs Weinstuben 2 Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede 10 Zum Roten Bären 9 ATTRACTIONS Augustinermuseum 8 Erzbischöflisches Palais 5 Historisches Kaufhaus 6 Münster 4 Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Wentzingerhaus) 7 Neues Rathaus 1 Schlossberg 11 Hamburg Berlin GE R M AN Y Frankfurt Munich Freiburg springtime blooms while snow still covers the surrounding peaks.

including a bombing in error by the German Luftwaffe. Staying in Freiburg Rappen $ –$$ Altstadt The best rooms in this charming. And in June. to noon. the city plays host to the two-week-long Zeltmusik Festival (Tent Music Festival). For those coming by car. The train trip from Frankfurt takes about two hours. is open June through September. Weinkost is a long wine-tasting event in midAugust. For train information. to 2 p.m. Monday to Friday 10 a. Getting around Freiburg The Altstadt. The large student presence adds a lively. 20-room inn have smack-dab views of Freiburg’s mighty cathedral. Wandering through its ancient streets is a pleasure at any time of year. to 6 p. Sunday 10 a. about eight hours. with performances in giant outdoor tents. RVF (% 0761/207-280) operates the city’s bus and tram system. the A5 Autobahn runs north–south through the Black Forest.m.m. a day ticket costs 4.bahn. to 8 p. The May Frühlingsmess (Spring Fair) and October Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair) both last ten days.m. Their pre-Lenten carnival called Fasnet is one of the best in Germany.. located right outside. Rotteckring 14 (% 0761/388-1880. Plus-Punkt. and sells has schedules and information. The office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a..) Getting to Freiburg Frequent trains connect Freiburg to Baden-Baden and other cities throughout Germany and Europe.m.m. low-key.m. Freiburg’s medieval charm has been preserved. to noon.60€ ($5.m. is easily walkable. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.m. take B31 west. to 2:30 p.m. to 7 p. and exploring the sights in the surrounding Schwarzwald is easy and fun. A oneway fare costs 2€ ($2. with bonfires and parades. providing access to Freiburg. freiburg. October through May.m.m.75). www. Saturday 10 a. Rooms are generally on the small side and simply but comfortably furnished. Sunday 10 a. If you’re driving from the Bodensee (Lake Constance). to 5:30 p. The . Salzstrasse 3 (% 0761/451-1500) in the Altstadt. Although the town was heavily damaged during World War II. If you’re traveling in the Black Forest. and Saturday from 8 a. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter.330 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Festivals are a year-round part of life in Freiburg.. Freiburg makes for an atmospheric overnight Saturday 10 a. Monday through Friday 10 a. from Hamburg. youthful edge to the old city. where you find all the major attractions.m.50). Finding information The tourist information office.

Tram: 1. Dining in Freiburg Oberkirchs Weinstuben $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This historic wine tavern on Freiburg’s busy Münsterplatz. or Cathedral Square. with a pretty painted facade and a list of innkeepers that goes back to the 14th century. 4. 329.” is the oldest inn in Germany. Rates: 145€ ($181) double. and seasonal dishes like pheasant. V. AE. including continental breakfast. DC. MC. and 6:30–9:15 p. Fax: 0761/382-252. 25 rooms all have private bathrooms or showers. Rates: 99€–110€ ($124–$137) Main courses: 14€–25€ ($17–$31). 79098 Freiburg. www. 329. “Dining in Freiburg”). See map p. this Weinstube is the most picturesque and romantic spot in Freiburg. The tavern sits on a small square flanked by a . Rates include buffet breakfast. AE. those in the modern wing have little balconies overlooking leafy gardens and red-tiled rooftops. pea. Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede $ –$$ Altstadt REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL For outdoor summer dining. Standing just outside the hotel is one of Freiburg’s medieval gateways. MC. This place serves hearty portions of good. and the surrounding neighborhood is wonderfully picturesque. This wonderfully atmospheric and unpretentious inn has only 25 rooms and one of the best restaurants in Freiburg for traditional Black Forest fare and regional wines from the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards (see the next site of a big weekday outdoor market.m. 79098 Freiburg. Münsterplatz 22. or 5. % 0761/31353. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt Zum Roten Bären. See map p. Fixed-price menus: 18€–21€ ($22–$26). provides good regional cooking and comfortable rooms. AE. or vegetable). V. DC.m. meat dishes (veal schnitzel. All trams stop just behind the hotel. Closed Jan. You can dine in the Weinstube (wine tavern) with its ceiling-high ceramic stove or at a table on the square. % 0761/387-870. You find plenty of activity right outside the hotel on Münsterplatz. Above the Weinstube.hoteloberkirchs. Münsterplatz 13.hotelrappen. Rooms in the older section have more charm. % 0761/202-6868. www. poultry. Doubles range from 126€ to 147€ ($157–$184). Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2 p. V. Reservations recommended. pork filets in morel cream sauce). Rates include breakfast. Oberlinden 12. MC. oldfashioned food: tasty soups (bean.roterbaeren. See map p. 79098 Freiburg. which means “At the Red Bear.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 331 units with private bathrooms have showers. 329.

available in May and June. and a wooded hill called the Schlossberg on the east. A young Rivaner wine. to 6 p. . supposedly a sign of the architect’s contempt for the city fathers. Gothic elements had been incorporated into the design. the earliest. The chef’s daily recommendation may be cream of tomato soup. AE. and Hollandaise sauce. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL The “Red Bear” has one of the best kitchens in Freiburg and one of the most authentically atmospheric dining rooms. 329. Its West Tower. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. Tram: 4. is one of the most beautiful in Germany. This part of town is medieval Freiburg at its most appealing. one of Germany’s masterpieces of Gothic architecture. In the hotel Zum Roten Bären. where you can sample seasonal dishes. site of Freiburg’s rose-colored Münster (Cathedral. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). Tram: 1. V. 5. dating from the 13th century. See map p. Give yourself at least two hours to stroll and poke around. See map p. and 6:30–11:30 p. Fixed-price menus: 35€ ($44). grown on the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards.m. a magnificent openwork spire atop an open octagonal belfry. or tagliatelle with shrimps. Exploring Freiburg Most of what you want to see is in the Altstadt. The cathedral was begun in 1200 in the Romanesque style. a salad with smoked lox. or 6). and Sunday 1 to 6 p. The Spargelpfannkuchen is asparagus served with a special pancake. Tram: 1. The cathedral contains some superb stained-glass windows. % 0761/ 202-790. are in the south chancel. a specialty of the region. to midnight. the Dreisam river on the south. Open: Daily noon to midnight. MC.m. Zwiebelschmelze is a spinach-and-vegetable-filled ravioli covered with sautéed onions. The building is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. Gargoyles peer down from the tower’s roof. Admission to the cathedral is free.332 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rushing Bächle (little brook) and horse-chestnut trees. % 0761/387-870. is a light. MapInsel 1. This place is a good one for trying Zwiebel (onion) dishes. one of them with its backside turned toward the archbishop’s house across the square. DC. an area bounded by the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) on the west side of the inner city. 329. The menu presents a full array of wonderfully prepared dishes using local ingredients. but by the time the structure was completed in 1620. such as Spargel (white asparagus). A simpler Vesperkarte (late-evening menu) is available from 10 p. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). cooked ham. MC. Oberlinden 12 (just inside the Schwabentor). Open: Mon–Sat noon to 3 p.m. V.m.m. fruity accompaniment. % 0761/35037.) All visitors eventually congregate in the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square). The good food arrives in extremely large portions. 43€ ($54).

% 0761/201-2515). The brooks channel water from the Dreisam River through the old university town.m.50). George. one of two surviving gates from the Middle Ages. the tower is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a. On the west side of the square is Freiburg’s Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). admission is 2€ ($2. built in 1761 for a local painter and sculptor and now home to the Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Town History Museum. The third building to the left of the Historisches Kaufhaus is the baroque Wentzingerhaus. called Bächle. You can see the Bächle running alongside many Altstadt streets. The Insel is the most picturesque quarter in Freiburg. if you step in a Bächle. a Gothic customs and financial administration center with protruding. the other city gate. For a wonderful view of Freiburg and the distant mountains. They were first devised to keep the city clean and to help fight fires.m.m. you can climb to the top of the Münster’s famous West Tower. another busy square just west of the cathedral. dates from around 1200 and stands on the southeast edge of the Altstadt. near the Schlossberg. you will marry a person from Freiburg. Chestnut trees and a fountain add to the charm of Rathausplatz. From April through October. the chief attraction in the Insel .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 333 The Bächle of Freiburg To help the town stay cool in the hot summer sun. is still used as the town’s official reception hall. The Schwabentor (Swabian Gate). Augustinerplatz (% 0761/201-2531). to 5 p. surround it. to 5 p. The mid-18th-century Erzbischöflisches Palais (Archbishop’s Palace) has a pale-yellow facade and an ornate wrought-iron balcony. The neighborhood around the Schwabentor is called the Insel (Island) because rushing streams. closed Monday. Paintings on the tower include one of St. A 14th-century Augustinian monastery with a yellow baroque front houses the Augustinermuseum (Augustinian Friars Museum). across from the cathedral. Freiburg has many lovely old fountains and a unique system of streams called Bächle (little brooks) that date back to the 12th century.. Martin’s Gate). According to local folklore.m. when Freiburg was a walled city. East of the university you find the Martinstor (St.. A trio of historic buildings stands along the south side of Münsterplatz. The oxblood-colored Historisches Kaufhaus (Historical Department Store).m. the city’s patron saint. pointed-roof watchtowers and a 16thcentury gallery decorated with the statues of four Habsburg emperors. November through March. with narrow cobblestone streets and restored houses once used by fishermen and tanneries. comprised of two highly decorated 16th-century merchants’ houses connected by an arcade.. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Sunday from 1 to 5 p.

(You need about an hour to get to the falls and back.50€ ($5. From the Belchen. the cable car operates daily from 9:30 a. where another enclosed gondola. From the grassy summit you can see the Feldberg and other nearby mountains. A new. a pathway climbs up the Schlossberg. another popular Black Forest lake. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter.m. the round-trip ride costs 6. and the vast Rhine plain to the west. where you find a 1. to 5 p.m.m. twisting road to Schauinsland.m. Give yourself about 90 minutes for the gondola ride and a stroll on the summit. one of the loveliest of the Black Forest lakes. you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Black Forest and be back in time for dinner. October through January from 11:30 a.m.m.50) for adults.334 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Quarter. head back north along B500 to Titisee. 4. pick up B317 west to Utzenfeld and follow the narrow road northwest to the Belchen. you can climb 91 steps to an observation tower for a panoramic view toward the Feldberg.) From Freiburg. Driving through the Upper Black Forest From Freiburg. a nearby peak. to 5 p. green hillside pastures.. backtrack to Utzenfeld and follow B317 east to Feldberg. The area also has easy hiking trails. From the parking lot. The roundtrip fare is 3€ ($3. Continue on B317 east and turn south on B500 to Schluchsee. you can see the highest peaks of the Alps to the south. Inside you find a collection of religious art spanning more than 1. From Titisee. From the Schwabentor. to 6 p.m. the Belchen Seilbahn.m.50) for children.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. to 7 p. takes visitors to the 1.. takes you to the peak for one of the most spectacular views in the Schwarzwald. a famous mile-high peak. The round-trip takes about an hour.m. The cable car operates June through September from 10 a. a hill that provides good views of the cathedral. The roundtrip costs 6€ ($7.75). Belchenstrasse 13 (% 07673/888-280). Along the way.6km-long (1-mile) footpath to an impressive series of waterfalls.m. The cable car operates daily from 9 a. You can also ascend the Schlossberg by cable car (% 0761/39855) from the Stadtgarten (City Gardens).750-ft.450m (4.40€ ($8) for adults.50). you pass some of the forest’s highest peaks and two of its most beautiful lakes. enclosed gondola. . head south on Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse to Günterstal and follow the narrow. the Feldbergbahn (% 07655/8019). you can return to Freiburg by heading west along B31. Admission is 2€ ($2. From Schluchsee. tile roofs in small villages. 4€ ($5) for children.) From Todtnau. the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. and on a clear day. Continue south to the hamlet of Todtnau. to 4:30 p.000 years.

which emphasizes jazz but includes other musical styles. Russia. you find all kinds of museums and sights related to clocks. (Note: Triberg can be jammed with cuckoo-clock shoppers in the summer. his great-great-grandson is the current owner. ranging from classical music to theater to pop concerts. In June. and other traditional crafts. . One of the most interesting museums on the route is the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum). As early as 1840. Clock watchers with time on their hands may want to drive the Deutsche Uhrenstrasse (German Clock Road. including program schedules and ticket sales.m.) You may also want to visit the Haus der 1000 Uhren (House of 1. to 5 p. 48km (30 miles) northeast of Freiburg on B33. clocks have been produced in the Black Forest. 2. In addition to the world’s largest collection of Black Forest clocks.m. Diners Club. Information about all venues and events. the museum has timepieces from all around the world and from all epochs. to 5 p. The shop ships to the United States and Canada and takes American Express.m. Josef Weisser. An der Bundesstrasse 33. Freiburg’s cathedral (described earlier). Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. a painter of clock faces. www. music boxes. Turkey.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 335 Time out: Buying a Black Forest cuckoo clock Since 1667. is a good place to go. In addition to cuckoo clocks. Triberg is one of the stops on this 320km (200-mile) scenic route through the Black Forest from VillingenSchwenningen to Bad Duerrheim. Triberg-Gemmelsbach (% 07722/96300). in Münsterplatz. Black Forest clocks were being shipped to China. Along the way. and a program of organ recitals in the Münster. huge tents house the annual Zeltmusik festival (Tent Music Festival).000 Clocks). If you’re looking for a traditional timepiece to take home from the Black Forest.m. to 6 p. Summer also brings a series of chamber-music concerts to the Historisches Kaufhaus. launched the business in 1824. is available from the tourist information office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Freiburg). shops also sell woodcarvings. Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1. The museum is open daily April through October from 9 a. and America. and Visa. Triberg. Discovering nightlife in Freiburg The Konzerthaus (Concert House) plays host to a variety of events. when the first wooden clock was made in Waldau.50€ ($3) for students.m. Furtwangen (% 07723/920-117). You can’t miss the shop: A giant cuckoo clock and water wheel are in front. The shop is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. England. located on B33 between Triberg and Hornberg. and November through March from 10 a..deutsche-uhrenstrasse.

Crash. is open daily from 11 a.) plays house and techno for dancers.m.–3:30 a.336 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany With some 25.. Schnewlinstrasse 3 (% 0761/ 32475. Hausbrauerei Feierling.000 university students. a brewpub with a popular beer garden across the street. Drifler’s Club (no phone. Tram: 1. in the basement. open Wed–Sat 10 p. open Thurs–Sat midnight to 4 a. the city also has a thriving bar and club scene. and funk. or 5). Two clubs in one. to midnight.m.m.m. Tram: 1 or 2). 4. . house. serves drinks and plays background punk. Neither club charges a cover. Gerberau 46 (% 0761/26678.

the old lanes and squares. Army base.Chapter 18 Heidelberg. which is set in Heidelberg. Today.S. summertime in Heidelberg is a time for music and romance. Heidelberg is one of the few German cities that was not leveled by air raids in World War II (WWII). Both are castle-crowned cities worth visiting for a day or two. 88km (55 miles) south of Frankfurt. Heidelberg. can easily be visited as a side trip from Heidelberg. baroque. Renaissance. the cultural center of this region. is one of Germany’s most romantic cities. Many Americans know Heidelberg because of the nearby U. so you still can see original buildings from the Middle Ages. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting romantic Heidelberg ᮣ Discovering the cultural delights of Stuttgart ᮣ Exploring historic Nuremberg devote this chapter to three special cities in central Germany. and neoclassical eras. Nuremberg. Stuttgart. the leafy hills and woodlands beside . (See the “Heidelberg” map in this chapter. I Heidelberg: Romance on the River Heidelberg. The looming ruins of the ancient castle. is renowned for its castle and its university. or Nürnberg as it’s known in German.) According to a song from the operetta The Student Prince. This architecture is certainly a major part of Heidelberg’s appeal. Stuttgart. But some of its legendary romantic allure stems from what was basically a 19thcentury public-relations campaign. located on the Neckar River in the state of BadenWürttemberg. is a historic and very attractive city in the state of Bavaria. summer is also a time when droves of visitors from around the globe invade this beautiful city. on the Neckar River.

m..m.m. and 2:30 p. good for two days and available for 14€ ($17) from the tourist information office and at many hotels. painters. The great writer Goethe and many other poets. www.m.rnf-schifffahrt.m.bahn. to 7 p. Rhein-Neckar-Fahrgastschiffahrt (% 06221/20181. and Sunday and holidays at 10:30 a. and the youthful student population all had great appeal to the German Romantics. daily (Mon–Thurs in German. Purchase tickets at the tourist information office at the train station. From Easter through October. Saturday at 10:30 a. between the TheodorHeuss-Brücke (bridge) and the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). The cost is 7€ ($8.cvb-heidelberg. Boats depart from the landing stage near the Stadthalle. The cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. call Deutsche Bahn % 11861 or visit offers daily guided boat tours (commentary in German and English) on the Neckar River between Heidelberg and Neckarsteinach. and only on Saturday from November through March.m.m.25) for students and children. The train trip to Heidelberg’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is only one hour from Frankfurt and about three hours from Nuremberg. Willy-Brandt-Plaza 1 (% 06221/19433. Taking a guided tour A two-hour guided walking tour of the city departs from the Lion’s Fountain on Universitätsplatz at 10:30 a. 5€ ($6.. and unlimited use of public transportation. guided bus tours of the city (in German and English). November through March the tour takes place only on Saturday at 2:30 p. including the castle.m. and Sunday from 10 a. Fri–Sat in English) from April through They praised the town in their writings and immortalized it in their music and paintings.m.75) for adults. For train schedules and information.50) for children.. depart from Universitätsplatz on Thursday and Friday at 2:30 p. From April through October. outside the main train station. Purchase your ticket from the tourist information office at the train station. The Heidelberg Card. The round-trip tour lasts about three hours and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. www. . Finding information The tourist information office. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.338 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the Neckar. provides admission to Heidelberg Castle and discounts on 10€ ($13) for students and children. and musicians “discovered” Heidelberg in the early 19th century. to 6 p. The office has maps and brochures. 6€ ($7. Getting there Heidelberg is easily accessible by train from all major cities in Germany and Europe. (closed Sun Nov–Mar). The town came to symbolize old-world German Romanticism at its most picturesque. walking and boat tours.

12 arls Karlsplatz K ATTRACTIONS Heiliggeistkirche 8 Kurpfälzisches Museum 2 Marktplatz 10 Rathaus 12 Heidelberg Castle 16 Studentenkarzer 4 Universitätsplatz 5 e nbe ies Fr tr. Schlossber g ch Neue S l os s - st r . Land Schlangenweg cksä EICHENDORFFANLAGE gg we en ph oso l i Ph 7 7 Hölderlin. gei 14 eilig upt Ha str.1 mile N 100 meters . rg Marstallstr. AL TS TAD T 6 M rg. g d lba Mitte ngass . Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei Restaurant 15 Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant 2 Mensurstube 7 Simplicissimus 6 Zum Goldenen Schaf 3 Zum Roten Ochsen 13 Zum Sepp’l 14 kar Nec Leyer gasse Mönc a Neck Fisc rstad en Lauerstr. 0 0 0. S To Bismarckplatz enga Plöck Heidelberg 339 1 1 To Train Station rich-Ebert-Anlage Fried eg nw ule Heidelberg Munich Das Hotel am Rathaus 9 Der Europäische HofHotel Europa 1 Hotel Hirschgasse 7 Hotel Zum Ritter St. Stuttgart. Heumarkt Ob Fischmarkt 8 10 Marktplatz 11 11 Kornmarkt Bur gw sse 3 4 2 2 Haupts tr. Ingrimst e Universitätsplatz San 5 Zw el nn tu rg e sb os hl Sc Castle 16 tr. eg . Ob r ere Fa ule Ne ue tr. gasse Plöck Kling ento rstr. se lgas ge r. loss Sch ue Ne Schlossberg Schloss nweg unne Wolfsbr str. igstr. frieds Land sse er Unt au er F Marz rP elz Sc hl udwig Karl-L tr.ACCOMMODATIONS weg Philosophenrtchen gärtchen e Neu nhe antelg Grosse M S c h if f g a 1 r. str. and Nuremberg Akad Semin arstr. 9 13 sg. adg erb . 7 hg. Haspelg. emie -str. Theate Kettengasse Friedri chstr. Untere St asse Jubiläumsplatz r ecka re N Unte Bauamtsgasse Werrgas Bism ar Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main äuser Ziegelh str. Chapter 18: Heidelberg. s-s os Grab dga ler Pelz SCHLOSSGARTEN 15 sse rstr. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei 15 Alte Brücke ime r La r. 15 15 H ststr. Biene Karpfe Zie Krame ts Haup tr. Semmel Steingasse Dreikön herg. ndst DINING Die Kurfürstenstube 1 Hotel Zum Ritter St. kteufel Am Hac rst Necka r. erianstr ing ers tr.

above the Altstadt. runs from Bismarckplatz into the compact Altstadt.50) for children and students.340 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Orienting yourself Your first glimpse of “romantic old Heidelberg” as you emerge from the Hauptbahnhof on the west side of town may be disappointing. between 9 a. the Marktplatz. Hauptstrasse. daily. the round-trip fare is 3€ ($3. a 24-hour pass. and 7:40 p. so I recommend that you take a streetcar or bus to Bismarckplatz or Universitätsplatz to begin your explorations. The Altstadt (Old Town). The city. to the east. and the Kornmarkt. dominated by the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit). . with simple modern furnishings and tiled bathrooms with showers. Across the Neckar River is the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way). Many bus and streetcar lines intersect at Bismarckplatz in the town center. and a botanical garden. beneath Heidelberg’s Schloss (castle). The main squares in the Altstadt are Universitätsplatz. Getting around Heidelberg After you arrive in the Altstadt you can walk everywhere.m. 2€ ($2. Heidelberg is crisscrossed with a network of streetcars and buses operated by the local transportation department. Fischmarkt. up to the castle. However. has a modern and a historical face. a popular walking trail. The Altstadt is a long wedge of slate-roofed buildings along the Neckar River. HSB (% 06221/5132000). an area of tall buildings and shopping plazas. The 17 rooms are small but very pleasant. a zoo. in the Altstadt. the Altstadt is about a half-hour’s walk from the train station. Das Hotel am Rathaus $ –$$ Altstadt This hotel is one of Heidelberg’s nicest and most affordable.m. Some larger rooms are suitable for families.50). a wide. or Market Square. valid for up to five persons traveling within a group. The one potential drawback: The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. The Schloss crowns a hill to the south. Buses 41 and 42 travel between the railway station and Universitätsplatz on the west side of the Altstadt. costs 8€ ($10). A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. is where you want to focus your sightseeing activities. It’s located right in the heart of the city on the Marktplatz. like many in Germany and throughout Europe. and the modern one is what you encounter first. Staying in Heidelberg See also the listing for the outstanding Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa ($$$$) in Chapter 22. busy pedestrian street with narrow medieval lanes on both sides. Modern Heidelberg centers on Bismarckplatz (streetcar lines 1 and 2 run there from the train station). A Bergbahn (funicular. a focal point for famed Heidelberg University. % 06221/22796) runs from Kornmarkt.75) for adults.

Many of the 40 rooms are modest in size. Rates include breakfast buffet. Although they have Romantic Altstadt and Nuremberg 341 See map p. The hotel doesn’t have public lounges. Bathrooms are adequately roomy with tub-shower combinations (four . Fax: 06221/454-111. Kulturbrauerei $$ Altstadt This small (21 rooms). www. See map p. 69117 Heidelberg. 69117 Heidelberg. hip hotel. Built in 1592 as the home of a cloth merchant. The hotel dates from 1472 and has lodged such impressive figures as Mark Twain and Bismarck. the main street in the Altstadt. MC. Rates include buffet breakfast. www. MC. Heiliggeiststrasse 1. DC. is connected to a microbrewery. Hotel Hirschgasse $$$ –$$$$ North Side of the River Nestled on the hillside of a historic lane adjoining the famous Philosophenweg on the north side of the Neckar. AE. The 20 rooms are all sumptuously comfortable suites decorated with Laura Ashley fabrics. Rates: 99€–154€ ($124–$193) double. the front rooms also can be noisy because of neighboring cafes and restaurants. See map p. The medium-sized rooms have light-colored hardwood floors and are furnished with comfortable beds and large wooden cupboards. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). % 06221/1350.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. The Mensurstube restaurant is one of the most historically atmospheric spots in town (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. 339. and all come equipped with shower-tub-whirlpool combinations in the bathrooms. V. V. but the beds are comfortable. www. Rates: 144€–206€ ($180–$257) double. Georg is a well-preserved rarity from the German Renaissance. gabled facade. DC. Most of the rooms contain tiled bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. Georg $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Located right on the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse. the Zum Ritter St. Fax: 06221/ 147-337. % 06221/4540. Hirschgasse 3. 339. Hauptstrasse 178. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 4-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Heiliggeiststrasse on the east side of Marktplatz). The hotel has a cool. 69100 Heidelberg. later in this chapter). 339. The Altstadt is a ten-minute walk from the % 06221/ DC. Bus: 34 from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop. the hotel is among Heidelberg’s sightseeing attractions thanks to its highly decorated. AE.ritter-heidelberg. The dining room specializes in duck breast and venison. minimalist style. just a couple of minutes’ walk from the river. V. this historic hotel enjoys a tranquil and romantic setting. Stuttgart. Hotel Zum Ritter St. Fax: 06221/ 135-230. Rates: 160€–345€ ($200–$431) double.hirschgasse. MC.

V. with fixed-price and à la carte meals. Main courses: 25€–37€ ($31–$46). Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. Hauptstrasse 178. but the cuisine is mainly French. MC. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 3-minute walk south to Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage). Fixed-price menus: 60€–80€ ($75–$100). 339. Reservations recommended. Look for culinary delights such as cream of watercress soup with poached quail egg and summer truffles in tempura. located in one of Heidelberg’s most famous Renaissance buildings. try the Dortmunder Hotel Zum Ritter St. AE. Fax: 06221/900-099. Main courses: 10€–15€ ($13–$19). 339. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). See map p. you can dine in the large Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) or the smaller Councilors’ Chamber. and the wine list is the most impressive in town. Dining in Heidelberg Die Kurfürstenstube $$$$ Altstadt FRENCH The best dining spot in Heidelberg is the wood-paneled Die Kurfürstenstube in the deluxe Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. you may want to dine at the on-site restaurant (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. The house specialty is saddle of venison for two (in season). and courtyard-facing rooms can be noisy in the summer. DC. Other menu offerings include staples such as pork loin with sauerkraut or roast salmon in a basil-cream sauce. MC. The menu is in English. % 06221/90000. If you like beer.m. Rates: 116€–149€ ($134–$186) double. Unfortunately. V. 69117 Heidelberg. A children’s menu includes dishes such as Wiener Würstchen (small Vienna-style sausages). Fixed-price menus: 20€–40€ ($25–$50). V. www. % 06221/1350. AE. The dessert menu is equally scrumptious. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. The restaurant uses only the highest-quality seasonal ingredients. Locals flock here when this dish is on the menu. AE. See map p. and 6:30–11:30 p.m.heidelberger-kulturbrauerei. DC. Reservations required. See map p. veal with stuffed pumpkins. Georg $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL At this restaurant. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). next). the hotel doesn’t have airconditioning. when tables are set up in the microbrewery’s beer garden.m. Leyergasse 6. In Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. 339. If you don’t stay here. . Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1.m. and 6–10 p. % 06221/5150. A good beginning may be the snail soup with herbs or tomato soup with whipped cream.342 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rooms have showers only). carpaccio of scallops and Scottish wild salmon with mushrooms in raspberry vinaigrette. and filet of turbot with celery on saffron foam with coriander tortellini. MC.

DC. lamb with rosemary. Hirschgasse 3. this large. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). The restaurant also has a pleasant dining room. popular restaurant formerly was a dance hall. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). You can also get meat dishes: a good rib-eye steak. 339. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. See map p.m. The limited menu wisely sticks to traditional dishes made with fresh ingredients. You can eat on the balcony or. and herbs. pork filet with mushrooms. to midnight. try the mocha and Grand Marnier parfait with fruit sauce. MC. Reservations recommended for dinner. seasonal specialties (herring. % 06221/4540. MC. MC. AE. swordfish with a pepper crust. Mensurstube $$ –$$$ North Bank GERMAN/REGIONAL No other place in Heidelberg captures bygone days quite like this rustic and cozy spot in the ancient Hotel Hirschgasse. V. spareribs). Come here when you’re in the mood for hearty portions of traditional German food washed down by one of the homemade Scheffel’s beers. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL On a warm summer’s day or evening. or pork medallions in a pepper-cream sauce with homemade Spätzle (a potato-based pasta). and Nuremberg Kulturbrauerei Restaurant $ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL 343 Part of a microbrewery and hotel complex (see the “Staying in Heidelberg” section. V. olives. In the Hotel Hirschgasse. 339. Reservations recommended. in summer. . followed by homemade noodles. or tuna fish with tomatoes.m. See map p. oxtail. Fresh fish dishes may include zander with lemon cream. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Haupstrasse).Chapter 18: Heidelberg. or lamb shank. Bus: 34 (from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop). in the beer garden. Open: Daily 11 a. Almost everything is best accompanied by Pils beer on tap. 339. You can order salads. dishes from the grill (bratwursts.m.m. Stuttgart. or vegetarian meals.–11 p. Open: Daily 10 a. Hauptstrasse 97. % 06221/90000. pork stomach. roast fish). nothing is more enjoyable or romantic than dining in the museum’s garden courtyard with its splashing fountain.m. V. See map p. where swords hang from the ceiling and you sit at 200-year-old tables. % 06221/24050. and 6–10 p. Potato soup is a good starter. Leyergasse 6. For dessert. earlier in this chapter). Main courses: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). The menu often includes Rinderfilet (filet of beef) served with bone marrow and a red-wine sauce.

but try to save room for warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. % 06221/183-336. Sat–Sun 11 a. V. the main street in the Altstadt.–1 a.m. See map p.. Zum Goldenen Schaf $$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL Located on Hauptstrasse. Portions are hearty and very filling. Plan to spend about two hours here. 339. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). Ingrimstrasse 16. Walking is the most rewarding approach because of the constantly changing views of the town and surrounding countryside. MC. this historic pubrestaurant offers a menu emphasizing regional dishes from Swabia and the Pfalz. Bus: 11. or by taking a two-minute cable-car ride from Kornmarkt (see “Getting around Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). 35. and the wine list is good. fresh mushrooms in cream sauce with homemade noodles. or crayfish with fresh melon and herbflavored cream sauce. Set amid woodlands and terraced gardens.m. to midnight. Open: Mon–Fri noon to 1 a. Visiting the top attraction Heidelberg Castle Most visitors reach the huge red-sandstone Schloss on foot. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Hauptstrasse). See map p. duck breast with asparagus. the enormous ruins of the castle are undeniably picturesque. 33.m. DC. You may want to try the Kringelbratwurst (roast sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes) or Swabian sauerbraten (marinated beef with red cabbage and noodles). and one of the most famous historic monuments in Europe. and wandering through the old lanes and squares of the Altstadt is as essential a part of any tour as visiting the tourist attractions. you also find a shorter. it is one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance castles in Germany. The menu changes often but may include lamb with a red-wine and onion purée. Exploring Heidelberg Heidelberg is a wonderfully pleasant town to explore. . The town has few must-see sights. Main courses: 19€–45€ ($24–$56).m. and for many visitors there is only one: the famous Schloss (castle) that looks down on the Altstadt. steeper path up Burgweg from Kornmarkt. Service is friendly. % 06221/20879. Even in its deteriorated state. Open: Wed–Mon 6 p. Reservations required. AE. V. Hauptstrasse 115. 339. 12. The easiest and most gradual path begins at the Klingentor.344 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Simplicissimus $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH This elegant gourmet restaurant in the Altstadt is known for its cuisine moderne. or 41. Fixed-price menu: 34€–85€ ($42–$106). Closed 2 weeks in Mar and 2 weeks in Aug.

fortifications and living quarters were constructed. 3€ ($3. in the 16th-century cellars of the castle.000 liters (55. is the shell of the Spiegelbau (Hall of Mirrors). In the 19th century.–5:30 p. you first come upon the Pulverturm (Gun Tower) and a terrace with views of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. At the west end of the terrace.m.m. During the first phase. Schlossberg.m. Pharmacy Museum. fish. free.75) adults. . was built in 1751 and once held more than 208. To the east. the largest in the world. 2€ ($2. re-creating a baroqueand rococo-era chemist’s shop with utensils and laboratory equipment from the 17th and 18th centuries.50). The second phase. Touring the Altstadt Marktplatz (Market Square) is the main square in the Altstadt. Its restored rooms can be seen on guided tours.. but the castle as it stands today was built in two main phases. % 06221/538-431. 1. from 1549 to 1620. Tours: Frequent 1-hour guided tours of the castle in English. See map p. vegetables. The museum is open daily from 10 a. daughter of the English king James I) leads to the bridge crossing the former moat. Audio tours: 3. Housed within Ottheinrich’s palace is the Apothekenmuseum (Pharmacy Museum. The palace’s terrace offers a magnificent view of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. constructed in 1549. connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrichsbau (palace of Ottheinrich).50€ ($2) children. This enormous wine barrel. and Great Cask. sits the Grosse Fass (Great Cask). The Elizabethentor (Elizabeth’s Gate). Admission: Castle grounds.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. After it was rebuilt. between about 1400 and 1544. entrance courtyard. Open: Daily 8 a. 4€ ($5) adults. your castle entrance ticket includes admission. cheese. stalls of fresh flowers. and Nuremberg 345 The history of Heidelberg Castle An elevated fortress rose above Heidelberg as early as 1225.50) children. On market days (Wed and Sat). In the southeast corner. saw the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles as various prince electors of the Palatinate added to the building. the castle was struck by lightning. The Hortus Palatinus (Castle Gardens) originally were created in the 17th century. to 5 p. 339. you find the remains of a grotto and a sandstone sculpture of Father Rhine. The castle was the residence of the prince electors for centuries until French troops sacked and destroyed it in the late 17th century. Stuttgart. Along the north side of the courtyard stretches the Friedrichsbau (palace of Friedrich IV). Entering at the main gate.m. % 06221/25880). erected from 1601 to 1607 and less damaged than other parts of the castle.50€ ($4. erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his teenage wife (Elizabeth Stuart. the ruins of the castle became a symbol for the German Romantics and a mecca for tourists from around the world.000 gallons) of wine.

to 6 p.50€ ($3. The one masterpiece on display is Tilman Riemenschneider’s 1509 wooden altarpiece showing Christ and the Apostles.–5 p. Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.).m. Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a. For nearly 300 years. Graffiti and drawings. Hauptstrasse 97 (% 06221/583-402). no phone. you find the Studentenkarzer (Students’ Prison). The Rathaus (Town Hall). Housed in a baroque palace. The museum restaurant (see “Dining in Heidelberg. to 6 p.). A five-minute walk west from the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse and south 1 block on Grabengasse brings you to Universitätsplatz (University Square). October through March.10) for adults. 2€ ($2. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3.75) for adults. Admission is 2. founded in 1386. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. and baked goods fill the square.m. 1. on the east side of the square.50) for students and children 14 and younger.m. discovered in the vicinity nearly 100 years ago. A two-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse from Universitätsplatz brings you to the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate).000-year-old Heidelberg Man (Homo heidelbergensis).. A few steps past the Old University. (Wed until 8 p. Heidelberg University. dominates the west end of Marktplatz.m. a wall was erected to divide the church between Roman Catholics and Protestants. You can also see an archaeological collection with a cast of the jawbone of the 600. to 4 p. On the northeastern side is the Alte Universität (Old University). In 1706. Heidelberg’s most noteworthy museum contains a large collection of regional painting and sculpture from the 15th to the 19th centuries.m. completed in 1932. The prison is open April through September. A Huguenot cloth merchant who emigrated from France to Heidelberg erected the building in 1592. The late-Gothic Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost. .25) for students and children 17 and younger. and at the south end of the square is the Neue Universität (New University). The highly decorated Renaissance mansion. The wall has since been removed and the church restored to its original plan. the church was the burial place of the Palatinate electors. built around 1400. The hotel is named for the statue of the Ritter (knight) at the top. is the oldest in Germany. Augustinerstrasse 2 (% 06221/543-554).346 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany meat. now the Hotel Zum Ritter St. open daily 8 a.m. Give yourself about 45 minutes to browse through the various exhibits. and a section on the history of the Palatinate.80€ ($2. where from 1778 to 1914 generations of students were incarcerated in cramped cells for minor offenses. cover the walls and even the ceilings.m. a building from the 18th century. Georg (see “Staying in Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter).m. including portraits and silhouettes.” earlier in this chapter) is a good choice for lunch or dinner.m. is an early-18th-century building reconstructed in 1908 following a fire. stands on the south side of Marktplatz.

ߜ Kinderwaren Troll. and wooden blocks and figures. sells charming original engravings for as little as 10€ ($13). Hauptstrasse 177 (% 06221/24255. and beer steins. . jazz.schlossfestspielheidelberg. Some noteworthy shops include ߜ Altstadt-Galerie Stefan. dolls. where nightly entertainment includes plays. Hauptstrasse 215 (% 06221/619-983). nutcrackers. UntereStrasse 18 (% 06221/28737). to midnight. Hauptstrasse 42 (% 06221/14480). opera. to 2 p. to midnight. Revelers sit at long oak tables arranged in horseshoe fashion around a pianist. November through March hours are 5 p.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. For five weeks beginning in late July.m.m. the songs become louder and louder. Early evenings often start in the bars along Hauptstrasse. including Heidelberg Castle. Bus: 41 or 42). The performing arts The main performance stage is Theater der Stadt. is a children’s clothing and toy store with handcrafted puppets. A mug of beer costs about 2. ߜ Michael Kienscherff. bathroom. Tram: 1 or 5). cuckoo clocks. Friedrichstrasse 5 (% 06221/583-502.m. and 5 p. A lively outdoor market is open on Wednesday and Saturday at the Marktplatz. Stuttgart. The tavern is open April through October on Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a. and table. and theater to venues around the area. Contact % 06274/58352 for tickets or visit www. classical music. As the evening progresses. Living it up after dark in Heidelberg The large student population keeps Heidelberg humming after dark. ߜ Gätschenberger. is known for its array of fine linens and embroideries for bed. the Schlossfestspiele festival brings opera. Meals go for 10€ to 18€ ($13–$22). Plöck 71 (% 06221/893-6677). Hauptstrasse 217 (% 06221/20977). opened in 1703. Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn). and dance productions. nativity scenes. and Nuremberg 347 Shopping in Heidelberg The main shopping street is the traffic-free Hauptstrasse. late nights get rolling in clubs around Marktplatz. offers a wide assortment of handicrafts from across Germany: music boxes. near Karlsplatz. ߜ Black Forest sells Hummel figurines. Historic taverns Heidelberg’s most famous and revered student tavern. and glass and crystal ornaments.50€ ($3) and up.

At the Stuttgart Wine Festival in late August. Stuttgart makes for a great daytrip from Heidelberg. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter. one of the oldest and largest in Europe. but the region also is renowned for its scenic countryside.m. who were conquered by the Franks in the fifth century A. Saturday and Sunday from noon to 2:30 p. Stuttgart plays host to a lively Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt). 115km (71 miles) southeast of Heidelberg. As a cultural center. but most of the people who live here still call the area Swabia.95€ ($3. a wedge of limestone upland south of Stuttgart. Stuttgart has no equal in southwestern Germany.348 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Swabia: Stuttgart’s homeland Swabia (Schwaben in German) is the name for a medieval duchy now contained within the federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southwestern Germany.000 beer drinkers. Visitors come from across the region to enjoy the city’s museums and performing arts. The name comes from rides. The 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. Stuttgart is the capital of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. To the north. All of them take place right in the center of town on Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest.) A visit to Stuttgart can be even more enjoyable when you time your trip to coincide with one of the city’s major festivals. For dates and more information. and cinnamon waffles. Starting in late November.D. A pianist performs nightly. the Schwäbische Wald (Swabian Forest) stretches to the Schwäbische Alb.70).stuttgart-tourist. the beer festival features food. also part of Swabia. For more than a century Stuttgart has been a center of German industry. to midnight. and west to the Danube River. A mug of beer goes for 2. A Side Trip to Stuttgart Located in the Neckar Valley. filled with photographs and memorabilia. to midnight. The building dates from 1634. begins in late September with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes. visit the city’s Web site at www. The smaller Neckar River flows past Heidelberg and Stuttgart through a vineyard-covered valley. Forests sweep south to the Bodensee. the original inhabitants. and 5:30 p. It’s open Monday through Friday from 5:30 p. Hauptstrasse 213 (% 06221/23085).m. . yet it remains surprisingly verdant. With Stuttgart as its capital. and tents for some 20. nestled in gently rolling hills with woods and vineyards reaching right down into the city. wine lovers converge to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. Dating back to 1818. Next door is Zum Sepp’l. Swabia has been a leader of German industry for decades.m. Meals cost 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). with about 230 decorated stalls selling gifts. mulled wine.

se ssStr Tüb Kr as o i n s np Stra ger e rin sse zst Kö ras nig se str ass Hir e sch str a sse St ei ns tra Ha ss up e tS ta ds t tr a Le ss o St e str nha ra as rd ss se e -E lsa s-S Do Th M Ho Es lzs St sling tr. ss e ras se an- tra rot Karlsplatz nst stra Fr itz Schillerplatz 7 Kon ns es tra 4 sse tra sse 6 -Ad Berliner Liederhalle Platz trasse asse tr sss Sch lo ne rs G.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. ra e sse r Rotebühlplatz e nste gu e Au trass s ar kt Ro Olg Marktplatz Urb ast r. Heinemann Platz Kleiner Schlossplatz K ien ans tra ass sse Theatersee -Str 3 5 AKADEMIEGARTEN ena Schlossplatz Eug stra ensse stra uer Ulr ich sse sse Urb 8 9 hee Ca st ra ss e r te B Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Stuttgart Munich ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg 7 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart 6 Mercedes-Benz Museum 9 Neues Schloss 3 Staatsgalerie 2 Weissenhofsiedlung 1 Wilhelma 8 DINING Alte Kanzlei 5 Café Königsbau 4 Church Information Post Office i Al To Fernsehturm ex an de rst ra sse Hohenheimer Strasse rh Ebe ar ass e Br str enn as erse sen str s G ai bu rg str e lum ns tra sse ss Charlottenplatz a e tras lzs nig Ki lli che Bo str Th o str uret ass e Lau ass SCHLOSSGARTEN 2 e Staatstheater se Ne stra ckarsse r tle Sat Heg elst sse Ca gs gs ber nn sta a str tras se tte sse rstr 1 Hauptbahnhof ass eg e e rd ns e w tra r Pano am as e ss t ra 0 1/8 mile 125 meters ss Jäg ers ss tra e 0 N SCHLOSSGARTEN e st ra en ss e Moserstrasse We ima rstr ass So ph ien str as se . and Nuremberg 349 Stuttgart Di He Se am es an tra te ss ers e sse tra rass Krie i Sch lag ille tenstra ten Hegelplatz rstr sch STADTGARTEN ngs tra sse ass e Holzgar Kö e S rad Le u ch Bü ch se eo d St or-H ra e s lw u er. Stuttgart.

. and in March on www. to 11 p.10€ ($6. cake. you can reach all the major attractions in the Altstadt on foot.) The Mercedes Museum and some other sights require the use of public transportation or a taxi.m. or you can sit out on the terrace and have an ice cream. from April through October. egg.m. call the city’s transportation authority VVS (% 0711/66060. Stuttgart Airport (% 0711/948-3388).m. Alte Kanzlei. Fares are based on zones.25) for one zone. The tourist office offers a 21⁄2-hour guided sightseeing bus tour (in German and English) daily at 1 p. is open Monday through Friday 9 a.m.vvs. to 6 p. spinach. to 8 p.. and accepts American Express.350 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting to Stuttgart By train. to 6 p.m. Saturday 9 a. Main courses go for 9€ to 16€ ($11–$20).m.m. Dining in Stuttgart Occupying a section of the Altes Schloss (Old Castle).75). call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. and Sundays at 1:30 p. an old-fashioned Konditorei (pastry shop) located in the colonnade of the Königsbau next to the new art museum. The cafe is open Monday through Friday 9 a. Schillerplatz 5A (% 0711/29-44-57. to 7 p. for 7€ ($8. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). The cost is 17€ ($21) per person. For information. Saturdays. to 8 p. Access by car is via the A8 Autobahn east and west or the A81 north and south.m. or other fillings) and Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef topped with onions). The restaurant has a cafe section where you can get breakfast and lighter Saturday 9 a. to 6 p. . www. and Visa. MasterCard. and Sunday 11 a. The restaurant is open daily from 11 a. you can take the S2 or S3 S-Bahn directly to the main train station in central Stuttgart.m. located 13km (8 miles) south of the city. Königstrasse 28 (% 0711/290-787) www. (Nov–Apr 1–6 p..m.80€ ($2. A one-day ticket (Einzel Tageskarte) costs 5.stuttgart-tourist. Purchase tickets from the automated machines in U-Bahn stations or from the bus driver. a one-way ticket costs 1. and Sunday 11 a.50) for two zones. For train schedules and information. specializes in traditional Swabian dishes such as Maultaschen (pasta stuffed with ham. trip time from Heidelberg is only 40 minutes.m.bahn. From the airport’s Terminal 1.).. Königstrasse 1A (% 0711/222-80. and light meals are served at Café Königsbau. Coffee. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter.m. the I-Punkt tourist information office. serves as a major gateway to southern Germany.m. Exploring Stuttgart From the train station. Diners Club. Ninety-minute city walking tours (in German only) are offered daily from April through October at 11 a. Stuttgart has a comprehensive S-Bahn system that links up with the U-Bahn (subway). Finding information and taking a tour Located opposite the main train station.

Stuttgart. Zuffenhausen Pragsattel Zahn-Nopper-Str. Stammheim Kornwestheim Zuffenhausen Kelterplatz Stammheim Rathaus Hohensteinstr. Berliner Platz Gerlingen Siedlung Schlotterbeckstr. Russische Kirche Giebel Keplerstr. Akadamie Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Wimpfener Str. S4 S5 S6 Botnang Universität Hedelfingen U9 U13 Ruhbank 15 U14 Eugensplatz Heidehofstr. Bubenbad Payerstr. Vaihinger Str. Beethovenstr. Silberwald Sillenbuch Schemppstr. Schwabenlandhalle Schorndorf Uff-Kirchhof Benningen Freiberg U5 U14 Neckargröningen Remseck S5 Tamm Freiberg (N) Wlhelmsplatz Bad Cannstatt Stöckach Felbach Lutherkirche U1 Blick Eszet Suttnerstr. Breitwiesen Falkerstr. Neckartor Schlossplatz Staatsgalerie Gerlingen Hölderlinplatz U6 2 Schloss-Johannesstr. Wallgraben Rohrer Weg Möhringen Freibad Möhringen Bf U5 U6 U8 Ruit Zinsholz Parksiedlung Scharnhauser Park Kreuzbrunnen Techn. Schwabstraße Dobelstr. Wangen Marztplatz Kodak Obertürkheim Mettingen Esslingen Obresslingen Zell Altbach Lindpaintnerstr. Maybachstr. Rosensteinbrücke Geradstetten Nürnberger Str. Eckhardt Neuwirtshaus Korntal Fortuna Löwentor Weilimdorf Wilhelm-Geiger-Platz Ditzingen Feuerbach Krankenhaus Höfingen Sportpark Feuerbach Leonberg Löwentorbrücke Feuerbach Pfostenwäldle Rutesheim Landauer Str. Peregrinastr. Daimlerplatz Wilhelma Weiler Augsburger Platz Höhenstr. Esslinger Str. Vogelsang Herderplatz Feuersee Mercedesstr. Arndt-/Spittastr. Siegelstr. Geroksruhe Steile Plochingen S1 U4 U9 Heslach Vogelrain Rathaus Österreichischer Platz Marienplatz Schreiberstr. and Nuremberg Goldberg Böblingen Hulb Oberaichen Leinfelden Frank Nellingen Ostfildern U7 U8 Unteraichen Sigmaringer Str. Mittnachstr. Bopser Weinsteige Degerloch Degerloch Albstr. Eltinger Str. Bockelstr. Backnang Mühle Hornbach S3 Maubach Mühlhausen Auwissen Nellmersbach Hofen Max-Eyth-See Winneden Wagrainäcker Schwalkheim Elbestraße Neustadt-Hohenacker Waiblingen Freibergstr. S2 Badstr. Salzäcker Landhaus Ehningen Gärtringen Nufringen Leinfelden U5 Echterdingen Pleiningen U3 S1 Herrenberg Flughafen Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn 351 S3 Filderstadt S2 U1 2 U3 U4 U5 U6 U7 U8 U9 U13 U14 15 . Mineralbäder Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion Metzstraße Karl-Olga Krankenhaus Bergfriedhof Raitelsberg Ostendplatz Schlachthof Tal-/Landhausstr. Kirchtalstr. U7 Mainsheim der Stadt Pragfriedhof Eckhartsaldenweg Wolfbusch Bergheimer Hof Türlenstraße S6 Salamanderweg Rosenberg-/Seidenstr. Friedrichswahl Heutingsheimer Str. Bihlplatz Südheimer Platz Österfeld Waldeck Kaltental Engelbold str. Ludwigsburg 15 Fürfelder Str. Stafflenbergstr. Heumaden S-Bahn S1 S2 S3 U-Bahn S4 S5 S6 Vaihingen Viadukt Fauststr. Borsigstr. Rommelshausen Münster Rathaus Fellbach Stetten-Beinstein Münster Viadukt Sommerain Kraftwerk Münster Endersbach Beutelsbach 2 Obere Ziegelei Mühlsteg Grunbach Gnessener Str. Landesversicherungsanstalt Asperg Favoritepark Tapachstr. Vaihingen Schillerplatz U1 U3 U6 Vaihingen SSB-Zentum Rohr Jurastr. Salzwiessenstr. Hauptbahnhof Berliner Platz Untertürkheim U4 Stadtmitte Charlottenplatz Olgaeck Schwab-/Bebelstr.Marbach (N) S4 Bietigheim Brückenstr. Gaisberg Brendle Im Degen Inselstr. Schozacher Str. Killesberg Löwen-Markt Renningen Milchhof Weil Messe Rastatter Str. Wangener-/Landhausstr. Millöckerstr. Pleininger Str. Friedrich-List-Heim Kursaal Winterbach Beskidenstr. Zuffenhausen Rathaus Korntaler Str. Sonnenberg Riedsee Waldau Wasenstr.

The museum moved to a new building in 2006.and 20th-century works by artists from southern Germany.The museum. and treasures found in the tomb of a Celtic prince (circa A. Schillerplatz 6 (% 0711/279-3400. Ernst Barlach. and Max Beckmann. Admission is 3€ ($3. Give yourself at least an hour here. (Wed until 8 p. To reach it. Hans Memlings’s Bathsheba at her Bath.m. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). Kleiner Schlossplatz 1 (% 0711/216-2188. Rebuilt after WWII. a large collection of Swabian sculptures. The Neue Staatsgalerie (State Art Gallery). then follow signs to DaimlerChrysler Werk. the museum is a filigree glass cube surrounding a rough-hewn limestone inner core. the Württemberg crown jewels (in the royal vault).m. You’ll see prehistoric stone sculptures.and 20th-century collection. The new museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.25) for students. The “New State Gallery.). honors the invention of the motorcar by Carl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler.50) for students.m. to 5 p. Nearly 75 historical vehicles are shown. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). is considered an icon of postmodern architecture. Paul in Prison. Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 30–32 (% 0711/470-400. take S-Bahn line S1 to Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion. A must for anyone who has an interest in cars — vintage or otherwise — the Mercedes-Benz Museum. including works by Modigliani. 4€ ($5. provides a fabulous panoramic view of Stuttgart and its surrounding hills. to 5 p.75) for adults. Stuttgart-Cannstatt (% 0711/172-2578). to 6 p. Mercedesstrasse 37. including the first motorcycle (built in 1885) and the first Mercedes (1902). which opened in spring 2005. You can see the highlights in an hour or so. Some famous examples of European art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries also are exhibited.m. first built as a moated castle in the 14th century and later redone in Renaissance style. you’ll enjoy every minute (free audio guides are available in English).m. and Rembrandt’s St.” designed by the British architect James Stirling and completed in 1984. Picasso. Highlights include Giovanni Bellini’s The Mourning of Christ.D. with works of the German expressionists Ernst Kirchner. the city’s finest art museum. In this section. a cafe open to the public. you find the 19th. the castle now houses a state museum tracing the art and culture of Swabia and Württemberg from the Stone Age to the present.25) for adults. It’s worth a trip to Stuttgart just to see the Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (Stuttgart Art Museum). 1€ ($1. The top floor. 530). U-Bahn: Staatsgalerie). exhibits works spanning some 550 years. open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. is one of Stuttgart’s oldest standing structures. Untertürkheim Tor 1 (about a 10minute walk). admission is 5€ ($6. The new gallery houses the city’s collection of 19th. 2€ ($2. in addition to representatives of the Bauhaus school and Blue Rider group. the paintings by Otto Dix are particularly compelling (the museum has the most important Otto Dix collection in the world). charges 8€ ($10) for adults.m.. Art lovers will .25) for students. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. such as Paul Klee and Lyonel Feininger.m. and Monet. Designed by Berlin architects Hascher and Jehle.352 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg (Old Castle and State Museum of Württemberg).

opera. For a private architectural tour by an English-speaking city guide/taxi driver.” earlier in this section on Stuttgart). Classical and other concerts are given in the Liederhalle. Le Corbusier (Rathenaustrasse 1–3).60) for adults. Am Weissenhof 30 (% 0711/257-1434.). www. (Thurs until 9 p.50€ ($5. and Sunday noon to 5 p.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. U-Bahn: Liederhalle/Berlinerplatz). available at newsstands. provide information about the project and the architects involved. Many of the existing houses represent the functional style that was being promoted by the Bauhaus school of art and design. or concert hall. The park was laid out in 1848 and contains a collection of historical buildings in the Moorish style.m.m. lists all the happenings around Stuttgart. Neckartalstrasse. is the largest zoo and botanical garden in Europe. walking tours are available on Saturdays at 11 a. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). To get there. Tickets for all concerts are on sale at the tourist information office.m. Home to more than 9. Staatstheater (State Theater). admission is 11€ ($13) adults. the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday 2 to 6 p. Listings of the various cultural events and tickets are available from the tourist office (see “Finding information and taking a tour. is home to the highly regarded Stuttgart Ballet and the Staatsoper (State Opera). want to give themselves a couple of hours here.stadtrund fahrt-stuttgart.weissenhofgalerie. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.75) children younger than 17. Displays in the small Architektur-Galerie. Walking through the estate you see houses created by architects such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (Am Weissenhof 14–29). Admission is 4. Bad-Cannstatt (% 0711/54020). home to the Stuttgarter Philharmoniker and the Radio Symphony Orchestra. The animal houses and greenhouses are open year-round from 8:15 a. Wilhelma. .m. take U-Bahn line 14 to the Wilhelma stop. Stuttgart is so close (only 40 minutes by train) that you may want to consider spending an evening there at the ballet. Schloss-Strasse (% 0711/2167110.m.m. to 5 p. (Nov–Feb until 4 p.m. Stuttgart.000 animals and plants from around the world. call Anselm Vogt-Moykopf at % 0172/740-1138 (www. take a taxi or the U-Bahn line 7 to the Killesberg-Messe stop and walk northeast around the Messe into the residential neighborhood. The magazine Lift.m. free for children 13 and younger. Stuttgart performing arts Even if you’re staying in Heidelberg. and Hans Scharoun (Hölzweg 1).m. free on a housing estate built for a building exhibition in 1927..). and Nuremberg 353 Classics of modernist architecture Architecture buffs will want to pay a visit to Weissenhofsiedlung (Weissenhof Estate).40€ ($6. to 6 p. Oberer Schlossgarten (% 0711/ 20-20-90. To reach the Weissenhof Estate.

head to the Markthalle (Market Hall). tableware. each newly elected emperor of the Holy Roman Empire had to convene his first Reichstag. convened by the International Military Tribunal. a cultural flowering made Nuremberg the center of the German Renaissance. historic buildings. and its location at the crossroads of major trade routes. the Nazi war-crimes trials were held here. . On and around Kanalstrasse. In the postwar years. the city’s architecture and previous role in the Holy Roman Empire represented the quintessence of Germany. But for a special shopping experience. a small town 35km (21 miles) south of Stuttgart and easily accessible by train. in Nuremberg. shoes. an Art Nouveau building dating from 1914 and full of stalls selling local and foreign delicacies. take note: Metzingen. were restored or reconstructed in the Altstadt. right outside the main train station. Serious shoppers. or meeting with the princes of the empire. To Hitler.” as the city originally was known. Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth Nuremberg (or Nürnberg in German) is located in Bavaria. But the city fell into decline until. but few have been reborn with the kind of evocative grace and charm of Nuremberg. dates back to about 1050. including some of the finest Gothic and Renaissance churches in Germany.) This strikingly attractive and lively city has about half a million residents. and museums definitely is worth it. Nuremberg made its second. with the exceptions of Dresden and Berlin. the city grew from a fortress and military base in eastern Franconia (a medieval duchy of south-central Germany) to a virtually self-governing Free Imperial City (Freie Reichsstadt). and more. After the war. 148km (92 miles) northwest of Munich. Dorotheenstrasse 4 (U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). the historic center. Spending a day or more exploring its streets. (See the “Nuremberg” map in this chapter. many of Nuremberg’s most important buildings.354 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Stuttgart You’ll find department stores and boutiques lining Königstrasse. churches. mark on German history. During the 15th and 16th centuries. no other German city. In 300 years. suffered such wartime devastation. The city’s role as capital of the empire. Nearly every German city has a restored Altstadt. From 1356 onward. Hitler made Nuremberg the Nazi Party’s permanent convention and rally site. is the home of Germany’s best and most numerous factory-outlet stores. made it one of the wealthiest and most important cities in medieval Germany. and most infamous. you find a selection of international designer outlets selling clothing. under Hitler. “Nourenberc. sports equipment. As a result. After he seized power in 1933.

bahn. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. t ers at rg. a ss to rg ra ras se hst eic Bl Gr il Sp itt ler A L T S T A D T 17 sse Brunnengasse Ma ri en to r 19 abe w ud Färbe Am Plärrer Ludwigstor t up ss Hastra sto e rgr tra igsJacobplatz L Spittlertor rstra Fürther Tor sse Fraue ngass e Ka b gas tharin gr a se enBlu Lor me enz nst er S ras tra se sse en rge be len be n Pegnitz Adlerstrasse Lauf r e rto Str 16 15 rgra be n chhe rrnstr asse e n - Lessingstrasse aben asse San dstr Hauptbahnhof Kö Frauentorgr nig ACCOMMODATIONS Burghotel Nürnberg 6 Dürer-Hotel 4 Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg 20 Romantik Hotel am Jusephsplatz 17 DINING Bratwurst-Häusle 12 Essigbrätlein 7 Goldenes Posthorn 10 Heilig-Geist-Spital 16 As you wander through the streets of this ancient capital of the Holy Roman Empire. www. The city’s Hauptbahnhof is within walking distance of all the major l e rass Praterstrasse Beckschlage Wes Neue G. Getting there You can easily reach Nuremberg by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe. less than 5 hours. 1 hour 40 minutes.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. L a uf e r g. Stuttgart. Johannis Friedhof Li n Joh an ng a 1 Pr Kleinweidenhle mühle Deuts Neutor ttorg rabe n Pegn iese itz l er w 4 5 6 AlbrechtDürer-Platz Theresiens. from Berlin.-LorenzKirche 19 Dokumentationszentrum Hamburg Reichsparteitagsgelände 21 St. you find reminders of Nuremberg’s brightest period. from Munich. 9 10 7 Obstmarkt Burgs s se Ha b gr a en Tetze lga sse de trasse B nis urgschmiets trasse str ass e ST. Travel time from Frankfurt is about 2 hours. 8 Karlstrasse i 11 12 13 Haupt-14 markt 21 Kö n ig LORENZ Kornmarkt 18 i Ma TAFELHOF ATTRACTIONS Schwurgerichtssaal 600 1 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus 3 Spielzeugmuseum 8 Altes Rathaus 13 St. JOHANNIS 2 3 dSchil e gass Maxtor Lange G asse Hirschel gasse I n . For information and schedules.-SebaldusBerlin Kirche 9 Frauenkirche 15 GERMANY Germanisches Nationalmuseum 18 Frankfurt Church Information i Hauptmarkt 14 Nuremberg Railway Kaiserburg 2 Munich Schöner Brunnen 11 s tr rien se as stra sse 20 B a h n h o f s t r a ss e 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters N . and Nuremberg 355 Nuremberg St.

plus admission to the castle. You find historic sights both north and south of the river.m. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. 6km (4 miles) north of the city center. crowning the northern periphery is the Kaiserburg. Although the Altstadt is larger than the historic centers in many other German cities. connections are available to Nuremberg’s small airport. from the tourist information office at the Hauptmarkt. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. opposite the train station at Königstrasse 93 (% 0911/ from Frankfurt. one of the most successfully restored historic city centers in Germany. and from Berlin.25) for adults. www.tourismus. children younger than 14 free. From April through October and on weekends in November and March.m. to 7 p. An additional branch at Hauptmarkt 18 (% 0911/231-5555) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. picturesque Pegnitz River bisects the Altstadt. By car from Munich. Orienting yourself Nearly all that is of interest to the visitor is found in Nuremberg’s Altstadt.50) for children. you can walk . In 30 minutes.m. the city’s main market Roughly oval in shape. take the A9 Autobahn north. a small sightseeing train operated by Nürnberger Altstadtrundfahrten (% 0911/421-919) runs through the Altstadt.m. To the north lies the Hauptmarkt. to 6 p.m. and Sunday (May–Sept only) from 10 a. The small. The cost is 8€ ($10) adults.m.m. The tour includes a visit to the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). www. The train departs from the fountain in the Hauptmarkt in front of the tourist office several times a day from 10:30 a. A guided 21⁄2-hour walking tour of the city center in English departs daily (May–Oct and Nov 30–Jan 6) at 1 p. Buy your tickets from the tourist information office or from the guide. to 4 p. the entire Altstadt lies within a double wall of medieval fortifications. the old imperial castle. all its sights are easily accessible on foot. head southeast along the A3 Autobahn. passing all the major sights on a 40-minute tour with commentary in German (English translations available). from major German and European cities. Getting around Nuremberg Nuremberg’s Altstadt is almost entirely closed to traffic. Flughafen Nürnberg (% 0911/93700.m. parts of which still remain and have rampart walks and gateway towers.m.356 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For those traveling by plane. to 1 p. The Hauptbahnhof lies on the southern perimeter of the Altstadt. and 2 to 4 p.nuernberg. 2€ ($2. Cost is 5€ ($6.airportnuernberg. take the A9 Autobahn south.m.

DC. Nuremberg’s transportation system consists of a U-Bahn (subway). Staying in Nuremberg See Chapter 22 for a listing of the charming Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz ($–$$$).60€ ($4. AE. and buses. You can enjoy your Dürer-Hotel $$ –$$$ Altstadt The 107-room Dürer stands beside the birthplace of its namesake.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. See map p. alongside the castle wall. and Nuremberg 357 from the Hauptbahnhof to the Kaiserburg through the heart of the city’s medieval core and past most of the historic monuments. next to Albrecht Dürer’s house (see the “Exploring Nuremberg” section. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse to Lammsgasse). trams. 355. call % 0911/19410. www. The smallish tiled baths have showers (some have tub-shower combinations). AE. The hotel is below the castle walls in one of the most historic parts of the old city. in a pretty room off the lobby. 46-room hotel provides good. solid comfort in a great Altstadt location for a reasonable price. Fax: 0911/ 2146-65555.50). Neutormauer 32. tickets purchased on Saturday also are good all day Sunday. % 0911/23-88-90.altstadthotels. For a taxi. Rates: 135€–180€ ($169–$225) double. Fares are based on zones. 90403 Nürnberg. The functional bathrooms are tiled and come with shower units. Lammsgasse 3. you could find “grand” hotels like this all across Europe. later in this chapter). DC. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk southwest along the city wall). They were always close to train stations (because that was how most people . www. special weekend and summer rates. V. MC. the only meal served.altstadthotels. and close to all the major sightseeing attractions in the Altstadt. MC. V. Burghotel Nürnberg $ –$$$ Altstadt This reliable. VGN (% 0911/270-750). See map p. call the city’s transportation authority. The easiest way to use the system is to buy a TagesTicket (day ticket) for 3. Stuttgart. Bedrooms are compact and nicely furnished. Rates: 98€–175€ ($122–$187) double. Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg $$$$ Altstadt At one Rates include continental breakfast. The ambience throughout is modern and pleasant. Walking in the Altstadt is easier than using public transportation. Mediumsized rooms done in pastel colors open onto the street or a back garden. Rates include buffet breakfast. 90403 Nürnberg. % 0911/214-6650. 355. For more information. Buy your tickets from the machines in the U-Bahn stations. Fax: 0911/ 23-88-91-00.

a beer brewed locally since 1468. Sebald. . and they were always the largest and most glamorous places to stay. The locals consider fewer than six bratwursts a snack. Children under 12 stay free in their parents’ room and baby-sitting can be arranged. See map p.80€ ($ 7). Rates: 250€–390€ ($312–$487) double. located opposite the Rathaus and close to the church of St.50–$13). or 12 pieces). AE.” (one.S. Main courses: 6€–11€ ($7.) and so on. MC. 10. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. 90402 Nürnberg. Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is inventive and refreshing. Essigbrätlein $$$$ FRANCONIAN/CONTINENTAL The city’s most ancient restaurant. the largest in Nuremberg. Rathausplatz 1. MC. V. The city is famous for its finger-size Rostbratwurst made of pork and various spices and then broiled on a charcoal grill. % 0911/227-695. % 800/543-4300 in the U. Note: Those big. Come to sample original Nürnberger Rostbratwurst (6. A good beer to go with your wursts is Lederer Pils. this grand hotel escaped destruction in World War II and consequently still retains much of its unique Art Nouveau atmosphere and detailing. Dining in Nuremberg Nuremberg is in a region called Franconia. V. wood-paneled dining room warms you. the open grill in the rustic. Look for an ever-changing menu based on seasonal availability. three . . In winter. “Eins.m. have roomy. zwei. The guest rooms. people typically have up to 14 for Your bratwursts may come with sauerkraut or rye bread with very hot mustard. and Canada. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (then a 5minute walk north on Königsttrasse to Rathausplatz). in summer. 355. Built before World War I. drei . marble-clad bathrooms. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is directly across the street from the train station). with many nouvelle recipes. Bratwurst-Häusle $ FRANCONIAN The Bratwurst Häusle is the most famous bratwurst house in the city. two. . or 0911/23220. The hungry consumer shouts back the number of bratwursts he wants.m. each one you eat goes on your bill and costs 5. delicious-looking pretzels (Brezeln) on your table are not free. The traditional specialty is roast loin of beef marinated in vinegar (what the name of the .358 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany traveled). dating from 1550. originally was a meeting place for wine merchants. DC. known for its hearty and relatively uncomplicated cuisine. www.–10:30 p. 355. served on pewter plates. Fax: 0911/23-22-444. .lemeridien. Seasonal game and fish dishes also are staples in restaurants serving Franconian fare. Bahnhofstrasse 1–3. 8. See map p. you can dine on a leafy outdoor terrace. AE. You can also get them to go (zum mitnehmen). You may hear the sausage seller in an open booth on the street shouting.

when the tables fill up fast and everyone stays late. Although the atmosphere has become more casual and touristy in recent years. The wine list is abundant and excellent. and so are pork knuckle and sauerbraten. such as curried chicken on rice.. AE. Closed Jan 1–15 and 2 weeks in Aug (dates vary). Main courses: 20€–28€ ($25–$35). 355. fresh carp (in winter). MC. and bratwursts. venison in red wine with plums. See map p. V. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 1:30 p. Kettensteg $ FRANCONIAN/INTERNATIONAL This restaurant. MC. Fixed-price meals: 38€–42€ ($47–$52) lunch. % 0911/225-153. . DC. 355. Heilig-Geist-Spital $ FRANCONIAN Nuremberg’s largest historic wine house.m. in business for 650 years. Reservations required. Carp is a specialty. hearty and filling.m. and beer garden beside the river in a romantic corner of the Altstadt is a real scene on warm evenings. and wurst with a mixture of onions and vinegar. bar. Goldenes Posthorn $$ –$$$ FRANCONIAN No other restaurant in Nuremberg can match the antique atmosphere of the Goldenes Posthorn.m. % 0911/221-761. Main courses: 10€–14€ ($13–$17). Fixed-price meals: 17€ ($21) lunch. Weinmarkt 3. 20€–42€ ($25–$52) dinner. Among its mementos is a drinking glass reputedly used by Albrecht Dürer. talking and drinking and eating under the trees. DC. See map p. spans the Pegnitz River and is an atmospheric spot to dine.75–$25). Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Winklerstrasse to Weinmarkt). Main courses: 7€–20€ ($8. The restaurant has a fine wine list. 65€–79€ ($81–$99) dinner. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p.m. The main dishes are typical Franconian fare. Bus: 36 to Burgstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Glöckleingasse). with more than 100 vintages. and Nuremberg 359 restaurant means in German). to midnight. In season. including vintages that date back to 1889. V. Tues–Sat 7–9:30 p. Wiener Schnitzel with french fries.Chapter 18: Heidelberg.m. AE. you can order leg of venison with noodles and berries. which claims to be in the oldest house in Germany. 355. Vegetarians can choose from vegetable lasagna or various salads. V. DC. the restaurant’s kitchen still features such old-fashioned but satisfying Franconian dishes as quail stuffed with gooseliver and nuts. MC. You’ll want to dress up a bit if you’re going to dine here. AE. Stuttgart. Reservations recommended. The menu is limited to just a few dishes. Glöckleingasse 2. and 6–11:30 p. % 0911/225-131. Spitalgasse 16. See map p. Bus: 46 or 47 to Spitalgasse. Open: Daily 11 a. Kettensteg is a nice place to relax and have a good time.

–11 p. and copies of Dürer’s paintings. lived in this house from 1509 to 1528.m. as is a self-portrait by Rembrandt. is on display. The extensive painting and sculpture sections include works by Renaissance greats Albrecht Dürer and Veit Stoss.50€ ($3.360 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Maxplatz 35.m. created by Martin Behaim. U-Bahn: Opernhaus (then a 3minute walk north on Kartäusergasse). Admission: 5€ ($6. Kartäusergasse 1. Exploring Nuremberg You need at least one full day to explore the main attractions of Nuremberg. The collection covers the entire spectrum of German craftsmanship and fine arts from their beginnings to the present day. tours 2.m. Furnishings in many of the rooms are important historical pieces. dollhouses. Open: Mon (July–Sept only) 10 a.10). 4€ ($4) children and students. Tues–Sun 10 a. and the healing arts. Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum) Germany’s largest and most important museum of German art and culture is the one must-see museum in Nuremberg. the structure has a first floor of sandstone surmounted by two half-timbered stories and a gabled roof. . Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. so walking is a pleasure.–5 p.m.10) students and children ages 6 through 15. winter daily 11 a. 355.. a sculptor and woodcarver known for his “nervous” angular forms and realism.. (Wed until 9 p. original etchings and woodcuts. weapons.m. Tours: Guided tours in English Sat 2 p. Open: Summer daily 11 a.m.–6 p. it’s the only completely preserved Gothic house left in Nuremberg. Everyday life in Germany through the ages is documented with domestic furnishings.m. folk objects.–5 p. Admission: 5€ ($6. The prehistoric and early historical sections contain finds from the Stone Age and from the burial sites of the Merovingians (a Frankish dynasty ruling from about A. nearly all of which are found in the Altstadt.D. one of the great German artists of the Renaissance. See map p. 2.).m. This is an exhaustive and exhausting place. Built in 1420. Bus: 36 to Maxplatz.m. No credit cards. % 0911/13310.). Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 3-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse). It’s a huge place and not laid out in an intuitive way. % 0911/231-2568. 355. so you need to choose your areas of interest and consult the galleries’ map frequently. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Albrecht Dürer House) Albrecht Dürer. Main courses: 8€–13€ ($10–$16). (Thurs until 8 p.25) adults.25) adults. historic musical instruments. and 6–11:30 p.m.m. Most of the historic core is for pedestrians only.50€ ($3. Exhibits inside the house are devoted to Dürer’s life and works. 500 to 750). Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39. Typical of the well-to-do burghers’ houses of the 15th century.m.m. and you need to give yourself at least two hours to see it.–2:30 p. % 0911/221-081. The world’s first globe.m. See map p.

Watchmen and guards used the ramparts with their parapet walks and secret passages to protect the kings and emperors. Stuttgart. is Nuremberg’s geographic and symbolic heart. has been in ruins since a fire destroyed it in 1420. an 18m-high (60-ft. marks the architectural transition from Renaissance to baroque style. was the official residence of the German kings and emperors from 1050 to 1571.. Some date from medieval . on Rathausplatz just off the market square. now a youth hostel.m. With their heavy oak beams and painted ceilings. the Hauptmarkt is the most colorful square in the city. The rooms are decorated with period Gothic furnishings. free for children 16 and younger. Sun 12:30–6 p. and paintings. completed in 1622. who lived in the inner core of the castle complex. 355. Most of the buildings were constructed during the 12th century. The council of Nuremberg erected another set of buildings in the 14th and 15th centuries when its responsibilities expanded to include the protection of the emperor. A fine view of the roofs and towers of Nuremberg can be seen from its terraces. The Kaiserburg Museum (% 0911/2009540) contains antique weaponry.m. and Nuremberg Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square) 361 The cobblestoned Hauptmarkt.–6 p. Open: Apr–Sept daily 9 a. % 0911/206-560. Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) Nuremberg is a major toy center. a later section. on the eastern edge of the square. Filled with stalls selling fresh flowers. The new buildings include the Kaiserstallung (Emperor’s Stables).Chapter 18: Heidelberg. every day at noon. The oldest part of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). See map p.25) adults.m.m. and the castle gardens. Admission: 5€ ($6. 4€ ($5) students. % 0911/2446590. In the northwest corner stands the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain). the great Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) on the ground floor and the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) on the second floor look much as they did when King Frederick III rebuilt them in the 15th century..and machinemade — fill all three floors of this museum. and vegetables. the massive bastions of the fortress.–6 p. the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well).m. the 11th-century Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower). The 14th-century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady. Burgstrasse. and toys — both hand. figures of the seven electors appear and pay homage to Emperor Karl IV. Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) The Kaiserburg.– 4 p. Oct–Mar daily 10 a. armor. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 10-minute walk north following signs).).) pyramid-shaped stone fountain from 1396. The oldest portion. looming above the city from its hilltop at the northern edge of the Altstadt. just north of the Pegnitz River at the northern end of Königstrasse.m.m. dates from 1340. has on its facade a gilded 16th-century mechanical clock called the Männleinlaufen (a hard-to-translate word meaning “little men running”). and explains the history of the castle. open Mon–Sat 9 a. fruits. Allot at least an hour to explore the various nooks and crannies of the castle.

The building still serves as a courthouse.m.m.50€ ($3. or do crafts in a supervised playroom. Saturday and Sunday 10 a. Lawrence) The largest and most beautiful Gothic church in Nuremberg rises above Lorenzerplatz. including Barbie dolls and LEGO blocks. U-Bahn: Bärenschanze). Bayernstrasse 110 (% 0911/ 231-5666). in room 600.m. so tours (in German only) are available only on Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 4 p.–5 p. though.-Lorenz-Kirche (Church of St. Albert Speer.. or 65 to the Docu-Zentrum stop. In November 2001.25) adults. magic lanterns.m. Inside. Objects on the top floor illustrate the history of toys since 1945. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Augustinerstrasse and north on Karlstrasse). 21 of the surviving leaders of the Third Reich stood trial in November 1945 for crimes against humanity.m. which is larger than the Colosseum in Rome. the huge Congress Hall designed by Hitler’s architect. a stone tabernacle by Adam Krafft (1496) presents likenesses of the sculptor and two apprentices.–6 p.. The center is open Monday through Friday 9 a. soaring pillars adorned with expressive Gothic sculptures line the nave. reopened as the new Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds).10) students and children. the 5€ ($6. A glass corridor now pierces the upper level of Speer’s Congress Hall. .m.362 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Judgment at Nuremberg If you’re interested in a famous landmark of WWII. Admission: 5€ ($6. times. to 6 p. The church contains two more remarkable works: The Angelic Salutation (1519). and a magnificent stained-glass rosette window glows above the organ at the west end. You don’t have to be a kid. Fürther Strasse 110 (% 0911/231-5421. See map p. ten were hanged. Afterward. Admission is 2. and model railways and other miniature vehicles. where the Nuremberg Trials took place. Sat–Sun 10 a. % 0911/231-3164. 55.m. The St. to enjoy this acclaimed museum. To reach the center. I strongly recommend a visit here because it provides a chronological overview of the rise of Nazism and its subsequent horrors in a compelling format. Exhibits include a large collection of dolls and old dollhouses. Here. Kids can play with toys. Twin towers flank the west portal with its sculptures depicting the theme of redemption. 2. optical toys (such as peep shows. to the left of the altar. take Tram 6 or 9 or Bus 36. carved in linden wood by Veit Stoss.25) admission includes an audio guide.m. a specially remodeled courtroom. draw. to 6 p. and stereoscopes). hangs over the entrance to the choir. St. more if you have kids in tow.. from Adam and Eve through the Last Judgment. visit the Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (International Military Tribunal). Open: Tues–Fri 10 a.-Lorenze-Kirche was begun in 1270 and took more than 200 years to complete.50€ ($3). 355. Give yourself at least an hour. The corridor houses an exhibition that chronicles the ruthless misuse of power under National Socialism. and.m. Karlstrasse 13–15.

m. this church dedicated to Nuremberg’s patron saint represents the stylistic transition from late Romanesque to early Gothic styles. % 0911/214-2516. fruitcakes. is a theater complex offering productions of drama (in the Schauspielhaus) and opera (in the Opernhaus)..m. U-Bahn: Opernhaus). to 4 p. consecrated in 1379. Between the two east pillars is a 16thcentury Crucifixion group dominated by a life-size Crucifix by Veit Stoss.m.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Kaiserstrasse 1–9 (% 0911/235-5075. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit).. See map p.. 355.–8 p. salad.m. % 0911/209-287.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof) is an enclave of halftimbered shops and stalls where artisans create and sell a wide range of handicrafts (along with touristy souvenirs). 355. tinsel. Tickets range from 8€ to 50€ ($10–$63). Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. An artists’ hangout. the Handwerkerhof (Craftsmen’s Courtyard.m. Richard-Wagner-Platz 2–10 (% 0911/231-3808. U-Bahn: Lorenzerkirche). The shops are open weekdays (and Sun in Dec) from 10 a. Steiff Galerie. held here for some 400 years. the larger east choir. when all the surrounding buildings are floodlit. handicrafts.-Sebaldus-Kirche Consecrated in 1273. The Christmas fair transforms Hauptmarkt into a small town of wood-and-cloth stalls selling tree ornaments. Admission: Free. Lebkuchen (see the sidebar “Love that Lebkuchen”). Admission: Free. and theater.m. sells painted tin figures of soldiers and Christmas decorations. The square is especially beautiful at night. and Saturday from 10 a. and Glühwein (hot red wine spiced with cloves and cinnamon). U-Bahn: Weisser Turm). June–Sept daily 9:30 a. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit the station). and Nuremberg 363 See map p. From Advent Sunday to December 24. Oct–Feb daily 9 a.m. Open: Mar–May daily 9:30 a. Performances by singers and musicians..m. the oldest Christmas fair in Germany.m. Sun 1–4 p. has classic and collectible Steiff bears for 90€ to 140€ ($112–$175). Shopping in Nuremberg Located across from the railway station.m.m. Hofman. Sebalderplatz. Rathausplatz 7 (% 0911/204-848. Triebhaus. dance.m. The nave and west choir are Romanesque. and puppet groups occur daily. St. Karl-Griolenberger-Strasse 28 (% 0911/ 223-041.–5 p. opens early for big breakfasts (served all day) that run from 4€ to 18€ ($5–$22) and offers soup.–4 p. candies. to 6:30 p. Living it up after dark in Nuremberg The Städtische Bühnen (State Theaters). Nuremberg’s Hauptmarkt becomes the setting for the Christkindlmarkt. Stuttgart.–6 p. Lorenzer Platz 10. is Gothic. and . Bus: 36).

m.m. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche).m. to 1 a. inexpensive gift.50€ to 7€ ($5. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche).60–$7. www.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. to be the best Lebkuchen store in Nuremberg. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. sells Lebkuchen packed in containers that look like half-timbered German houses.50€ to 6€ ($5.m. to 1 a. many places make and sell Lebkuchen in several different forms.60–$8. to 1 a.50) until 10:30 p.364 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Love that Lebkuchen Lebkuchen (layb-koo-kin) is to Nuremberg what Marzipan is to Lübeck.m. has a pleasant patio where you can order a drink or a sandwich.75).lebkuchenschmidt.m. These delicious honey-andspice cakes evolved into their round shape in Nuremberg. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a. Café Ruhestörung. While jealously guarding their recipes. to 1 a. Bergstrasse 1 (% 0911/243-464. Sandwiches and light meals cost 4. . Zollhausstrasse 30 (% 0911/89660. sandwich specials from 4. The city’s been the capital of Lebkuchen since the early 15th century.m. Tetzelgasse 21 (% 0911/221-921.m. Many consider Lebkuchen Schmidt. Lebkuchen makes a great. Lebkuchen

the most famous being the one attached to a high rock called the Lorelei (also spelled Loreley) towering above the town of St. the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world. and northwest to the North Sea. and forms Germany’s southwestern boundary as it continues west. and vineyard-covered slopes. a lovely winegrowing section of the . flows through the Bodensee (Lake Constance. Lorelei. The Rhine also is at the musical heart of Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen. north. Sitting right on the river. this city makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland.000 sq. who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles. Some 1. you can drive into the Rheingau. the river originates in southeastern Switzerland. For about two centuries now. medieval towns.000 sq. Goarshausen. Transformed into a siren. miles) and is a treasure-trove for tourists. blonde hair and taking out her revenge by luring fishermen and ship captains to their destruction. From Cologne. I give most of the coverage to Cologne. the Rhine has inspired many legends. the Rhineland’s largest and most important city. so the story goes.) In this chapter. The Rhineland. encompasses roughly 23.Chapter 19 Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the Rhine-side city of Cologne ᮣ Enjoying a boat trip on the Rhine ᮣ Exploring the warm wine country of the Rheingau ᮣ Taking in the scenery of the lovely Mosel Valley T he Rhine (spelled Rhein in German) is one of the world’s great rivers. the area along the river’s west bank. see Chapter 17). Through the centuries. was a beautiful young woman who threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover. (See “The Rhineland” map in this chapter. she sat on the rock combing her long.320km (820 miles) long. km (9.

I describe the highlights of all these side trips later in this chapter. Getting there Cologne is one of the major cities in western Germany. the Mosel Valley. you can traverse 2. a dizzyingly ornate Gothic cathedral beside a modern museum complex. is likewise a vital component of life here. parades. Cologne traces its beginnings to 38 B. an opera at the highly regarded opera house. or trade-fair grounds. When the weather turns warm.” one of the most important pilgrimage cities in medieval Christendom. On a ten-minute walk in Cologne. the churches drew medieval pilgrims from all across Europe to “Holy Cologne. or a boisterous outdoor concert in the Rheinpark. Cologne’s unique and delicious beer. The city also is famous as the birthplace of eau de Cologne. when Roman legions set up camp here.C. and general delirium. The range of its museums and the quality of their collections make Cologne one of the outstanding museum cities of Germany. a time of masked balls. . and a humble Romanesque church wedged in among luxury shops.D. 50. Cologne — spelled Köln in Germany and pronounced koeln — offers far more than just Germany’s largest cathedral. You can see Roman ruins in an underground parking garage. The Kölner themselves are refreshingly relaxed and down-to-earth in how they enjoy their city. car. covered with meticulously tended vineyards.366 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. Music. Every year they welcome millions of visitors. is also worth exploring. Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine Visitors to this lively metropolis on the Rhine. or plane. and getting there is easy by train. are immediately struck by Cologne’s cheek-by-jowl juxtaposition of the very old with the very new. And although not as grand and legend-filled as the Rhine. As early as A. Ancient traditions are annually renewed in the city’s raucous pre-Lenten Carnival (called Fasching). Older than the cathedral. and a substantial meal of typical Rhineland cuisine. the city boasts 12 major Romanesque churches. whether it’s a symphony concert in the modern philharmonic hall. many of whom come to attend the giant international trade fairs held in the Köln Messe. Germany’s fourth-largest and oldest city.000 years of history. the emperor Claudius gave the city municipal rights as capital of a Roman province.. visitors and citizens alike stroll along the Rhine promenades and flock to outdoor taverns and restaurants to enjoy the pleasures of a Kölsch. In addition to its substantial Roman legacy.

Direct flights arrive from most major European cities. A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 25€ ($31).m. The trip takes 20 minutes. is located 14km (9 miles) southeast of the city.airport-cgn. the fare is 3€ ($3.75).m. It runs from 5 a. The fastest and simplest way to get into the city is by taking an S-Bahn train (S-13) from the new airport train station directly to the Cologne main train station. www. .de). Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn (% 02203/ 40-40-01. to nearly 2 a.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 367 The Rhineland Rh A57 A31 A3 A43 A1 Hamm A2 A44 7 0 0 64 55 30 mi Paderborn N 30 km in e 68 Herne NETHERLANDS Duisburg Essen A2 Dortmund Hamburg 7 A44 7 Mönchengladbach Hochneukirch A61 A4 Düsseldorf A46 A1 Wuppertal A45 55 ANY R MBerlin GE Bonn Area of detail Frankfurt 252 am Main A44 Cologne (Köln) A4 Siegen 62 Munich 3 Aachen Bonn Bad Godesberg A1 258 Marburg A45 A3 3 Alsfeld A5 A61 255 42 54 Giessen Wetzlar 49 Rh in e BELGIUM 9 Koblenz A3 A27 A5 A45 Daun A48 A61 54 Gelnhausen ose A1 327 Wiesbaden Rüdesheim Frankfurt am Main A3 M l Assmannshausen Bingen 50 Bitburg Mainz Aschaffenburg Rh i Bad Kreuznach LUXEMBOURG Trier Luxembourg A1 41 A63 A61 Darmstadt A5 A67 M a in ne Idar-Oberstein 271 Bockenheim Grünstadt Neuleiningen A6 9 Worms 469 A62 Mannheim Ne Kaiserslautern A8 A6 A62 Ludwigshafen Speyer 10 ckar 27 Heidelberg A6 A65 9 Saarbrücken Metz F R A N C E A5 Heilbronn Karlsruhe By plane Cologne’s airport.

The office is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. The Altstadt spreads in a semicircle west from the Rhine to a ring road that follows the line of the 12th-century city walls (demolished.m. By car Cologne is easily reached from major German cities. Getting oriented The major sights of Cologne. so reaching the city from anywhere in Germany or the rest of Europe is easy. The city’s early industrial plants were concentrated in Deutz. to 8 p. The area across the river. where the Romans built their first walled colony. where you find the cathedral and most of the major is located just a few steps from the cathedral. and Hamburg (trip time: 41⁄2 hours). the historical heart of Cologne. a room-rental service (3€/$3. The office has city maps. Finding information The Köln Tourismus Office. For train information and schedules. The A3 Autobahn connects the city to the north and south. Frankfurt (trip time: 21⁄2 hours).m.) The center of the Altstadt is the Innenstadt (Inner City). good for a single one-way fare within the inner city is 1. The city also has an excellent bus. except for three gateways. tram.m. while the A4 Autobahn travels east and west. The ring road and a greenbelt in the southwest (the location of the university) girdle Neustadt. Getting around The compact and pedestrian-friendly Altstadt. is a . A day ticket. are located in the Altstadt (Old Town).75€ ($1) for children.50€ ($2) for adults.368 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany By train Cologne is a major rail hub.m. is easily explored on foot. www.bahn. and many of them are still there. Frequent daily trains arrive from Berlin (trip time: 51⁄2 hours). costs 8€ ($10) and enables you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network (but the Cologne Welcome Card. the Kölner Tageskarte.75). (See the “Cologne” map in this and S-Bahn (light-rail) system. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. and Sunday 10 a. U-Bahn (subway). Unter Fettenhennen 19 (% 0221/221-30400. on the Rhine’s east bank. The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is in the heart of the city. is called Deutz. Besides providing the best views of the cathedral-dominated Cologne skyline. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). in the 19th century). described under “Exploring and information on city attractions. next to the cathedral. including the mighty cathedral and the most important museums. 0. to 5 p. the restored and much altered medieval core of the city. the “new” part of town dating from the 19th century. A CityTicket. Deutz is where you find the Köln Messe (trade-fair grounds) and the Rhinepark.” later in this chapter.

Alten Uf er Konrad . St. i n er gu st Au Pipi nstr. E hr e n s t r a s se Br e i t e T u ni 10 Brüc ke str .Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 369 Cologne 0 0 0.25 mi 0. ch sse Vo tra tra NEUSTADT Eif rte n VOLKSGARTEN str. i 9 8 Hohe Strasse Hohenzollernbrücke 4 5 Am Ho f INNENSTADT 6 7 Frankenverft 2 DEUTZ S tr .25 km Uf e M Turiner Wi Kai lhe ser lm -Ri ng Tunisstrasse Mohrenstrasse Am Gereonshof Gere onst r. Thieboldgasse 12 LeonhardTietz-Str. Mauri tiusste Neumarkt Gürzenichstr. Agripp Ro on h str bac as se r. str.P rb e g th erl Ro en bach gra b ba Mü Waidmarkt str .Ma Frie gnu sstra sse platz Hohenzol lernFriesenwall ring s t r. Mindener s s t ras s e St ras s e Minoritenstrasse Fischmarkt rger Habsbug rin Ei fe Am Leystapel - Mau ritius wall ng l lner Neukö e Strass Hohe nstau in w fenri eg Holz- TelAviv -Str asse Severin strasse markt r lsbe be Ga gerstrasse l al lw .A Gl Erftstrasse ad Strenba ass ch e er ll tra wa Ein ns reo e G Kyotostr. iden ga sse us ALTSTADT-S ALTSTADT-SÜD V Sieb or den en b u rg en us er- rge ga s se ergLandsb e strass asse nstr Rose Hamburg Berlin en-e Bay ass str e bu GERMANY Cologne r- W . astr. ALTSTADT-NORD M a r zellens t r . 3 3 Go Haupt. s en - Köln Messe e r n -Str Auf dem Berlich senstr. Frankfurt Munich wall erin Sev sUbie rrin g els ACCOMMODATIONS Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Excelsior Hotel Ernst 3 Hotel Engelbertz 11 Hyatt Regency Köln 2 Senats Hotel 14 DINING Bräuhaus Sion 7 Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Früh am Dom 8 Hanse Stube 3 Sünner im Walfisch 15 Taku 3 ATTRACTIONS Dom 4 4711 Haus 10 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 9 Museum Ludwig 6 Kölner-Seilbahn 1 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 5 Schnütgen Museum 12 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 13 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn i Siegburger Str. V ictori astrass tr.gasslde bahnhof Kennedy-Ufer Ch rist str oph. 13 Heumarkt Fleischme ngerg. 15 Sa 16 16 Deutzer Brüc ke Mittelstrasse Rudolfplatz SchilderCäcilien- gasse Nordt Süd Fahr Hahnenstr. e Ur s u las Machab äerst ras se de n a ue Ha a ns rin g s cht Eigelstein b ay ac Strasse Domstrasse Dagobertst rasse R h i n e N r tr hs as se Ha g rin nsa nso re Ge wall Thürmchenswall 1 RHEINPARK tr. Johan nisstr. Zeu g haus rgmauer Bu . erst Neue W ey We sse kt G r o n ma r ch e G ri e au Bl er. r- Tanzbrunnen n imi M ax t r . n - 14 Alter Markt 11 lzg. Friesen. ach nb h le Fitzengraben Ja hn auRhein strasse ch n e R h i strasse Severi nsbrück e en ass Am ais el- str en os ha M xem U llr Bus Ka Lo th rin Sa ge rS Lu rtä se chg ich Barbarossaplatz Sa lie rri Bu ng rg un str de as se rs tr.-A p Richmodstr. lks sse ga rin ll K a r tä use Eifelplatz n- wa g f rho D r eik ö n i g ens t r.

Be sure to validate your ticket. The season officially lasts from New Year’s Eve to Ash Wednesday.50€ ($3).” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events in Germany. you climb up a curving. The decoration throughout is light. The city buzzes with masked balls. To order a taxi. and general delirium. Taxi meters start at 2. . Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt The two town houses that make up this hotel stand on a corner of a historic square. 90€–108€ ($112–$135) double with bathroom. Natives call this citywide celebration Fasteleer or Fastelovend. or at the stations. better deal because it includes public transportation and free or reduced-price entry to museums and other attractions). See map p. Ten units come with a small.50€ ($2) per kilometer thereafter. and modern. Fax: 0221/257-4232. Hotel Engelbertz $ Altstadt This modest. some rooms have beamed ceilings. family-run hotel is in a central location close to everything in the Altstadt. wooden staircase (or take the elevator) to your room. from bus drivers. Excelsior Hotel Ernst ($$$$). From the wine restaurant on the ground floor (see “Dining in Cologne. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). right on the Rhine in the busiest section of the Altstadt.370 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Celebrating carnival in Cologne Cologne’s Carnival. % 0221/272-7777. Rates: 64€–85€ ($80–$106) double without bathroom. all with small bathrooms that have a tub or shower.25) if you hail a taxi from the street. The hotel has 40 rooms. The 31 rooms are fairly basic but comfortable and not lacking in a kind of old-fashioned charm. Purchase tickets from the automated machines (labeled Fahrscheine). call Taxi-Ruf at % 0221/19410. Rates include buffet breakfast. www. call VRS at % 01803/504-030. validation machines are in stations and on buses. tiled bathroom with Fischmarkt 1–3. the city’s “fifth season. 369. cheery.” later in this chapter). 50667 Köln. plus 1€ ($1. For information about public transportation. the fare rises 1. Staying in Cologne Also see Chapter 22 for details on Cologne’s premier hotel.

S-Bahn Langenfeld LEV-Rheindorf 12 Merkenich 1 Nievenheim 3 LEV-Küppersteg Schiebusch LEV Mitte Bayerwerk K-Stammheim Bergisch Gladbach K-Dellbrück K-Holweide Duckterath 13 4 Dormagen Dormagen Bayerwek 4 Merkenich Mitte Fordwerke Nord Fordwerke Mitte Fordwerke Süd Geestemünder Str. Takuplatz Platz K-Mülheim Zoo / Flora LenauAkazienweg K-Nippes Grünstr./Gürtel Slabystr. Im Weidenbruch 16 Niehl Sebastianstr. r g ma swe en ttg Rö Königsforst 9 Melaten Wüllner-str. Str ter r fu nk f mp fad n Fra dho ./ Ulreporte Lindenburg Ubierring Eifelwall Haus Vorst Westhoven Gürtel Weißhausstr. 19 Heimersdorf Longericher Herforder Str. Am Emberg K-Worringen K-Chorweiler Nord 6 15 K-Chorweiler Chorweiler 7 K Volkhovener Weg 8 Niehl Mülheim Berliner Str. Wichheimer Str. horrem Sindorf 1 Weinsbergstr. Eifelstr./ M e Eu Clar Gürtel ter l A Brahmsstr./Gürtel Liebigstr. Gürtel Stüttgenhof 8 Poll Salmstr. K-Blumenberg 5 Odenthaler Str. Amsterdamer Neusser Str. Leuchterstr. Nesselrodestr. Holweide Vischering Str. Von-Sparr-Str. d pfa tst r. n Gürtel dio m Sta Hans-Böckler-Platz ru Oskar-Jägarie nt rf Bf West Friesenplatz Ze tr. Bottensternstr. Frechen-Benzeirath K Airport Businesspark 7 se as M g len üh Fre e ch nR at u ha s nK he irc he K Steinstr. Westfriedhof Mülheim Iltisstr. Str. Dasselstr. Neumarkt Weyertal 15 Baumschulenweg Mersdorf Universität 6 Kölner Str. 9 Gottesweg Klettenbergpark Michaelshoven Rosenhügel Kalscheurer Weg 19 Sürth Efferen Zollstockgürtel Godorf Zündorf Kiebitzweg 7 Wesseling Nord Hürth-Hermülheim Zollstock Südfriedhof Wesseling Fischenich 12 Brühl-Vochem Wesseling Süd Brühl Nord Urfeld Brühl Mitte Brühl Süd Widdig Brühl-Badorf Uedorf Brühl-Schwadorf Hersel Walberberg Merten 18 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn 371 Sankt Augustin Ort . 18 K-Longerich 9 Scheibenstr. Moltke-str. Os Au to th eim hn ba Ste e inw Köln Hbf g Po rze Bf Deutz / Messe r r llb llb De De . Porz Steinstr. Severinstr. Gutenbergstr. Sülzburgstr./Gürtel n e s n e e n Aachener Str. 3 Schaffrathsgasse 4 16 Buchheim Herfer Str. Wiener Florastr. Düren g ift r. Keupstr. Schönhauser Str. Gilgaustr./ Piusstr. K-Buchforst Nußbaumerstr. platz Escher Str. eg tr. Maria Himmelfahrt Str. au nfo M be er Fr ch pe pp im rS e th rS ek nw en ba ück sthe he Ka ldae Ho ue ölne fra Kipp rank r öh Kalk Mer Fieh u e lk e m u B I L a H R F N F K K 1 Bensberg . Porz Porz-Wahn Spich Troisdorf Köln / Bonn Flughafen c Fre Siegburg He nn ef en nk Bla bu rg M e art n o Eit rf n ld rn h he nfe de ac rsc tte sb Au (Sieg) hla He Da Sc Ro Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Sankt Augustin-Mülldorf Sankt Augustin Markt Sankt Augustin Kloster Buschdorf 16 Severinsbrücke Drehbrücke Zülpicher Platz Poller Kirchweg Gleuser Str. Str. Wolffsohnstr. 3 13 Mengenich Oflenhauerring 5 Ossendorf 15 e feld k üc M k üc rS s au up Ha tr./Bf Süd 17 Raiffeisenstr. Berrenrather Str. Bayenhalgürtel Frechen Bahnhof Eifelplatz Chlodwigplatz Kloster Heinrich-Lübke-Ufer Euskirchener Str. / Gürtel K Geldernstr. K-Deutz Dom/Hbf Christophstr. tr rS th Ra - FrechenKönigsdorf Appeilhofplatz Heumarkt Suevenstr. Mommsen-str. Mollwitzstr. Reichenspergerplatz Außere Kanalstr./Gürtel Leyendeckerstr. Altonaer Platz 6 12 Longerich Friedhof Meerfeldstr. Berliner Str./ oh nk ein eid h Maarweg Gürtel Universitäts-str. Lohsestr. Pohligstr. Mauritluskirche Buir Merzenich K Frankfurter Str. K Hansaring K Ehrenfeld K-Müngersdorf / Technologiepark Venicer Str. Waldecker Str. K-Lövenich Kalk Post K Trimbornstr./ Rektor-Klein-Str. sp ka se rst ie rg str en au ide lle tr./ Mediapark Körnerstr. u Ne Bocklemünd 17 Thielenbruch 18 19 Breslauer Platz / Hbf Koelnmesse Osthallen Wilhelm-Sollmann-Str. Zülpicher Str. W Ba M Ju Rh Bf Deutz / DeutzKölnarena Kalker Bad Deutzer Freiheit u He Weiden Schulstr. rin r St chst är e ilit pen nba Dürener Str. weg rsdo nerg Str. Sülz Hermeskeller Platz Sülzgürtel 8 Porz Markt Gürtel Siegstr. Parkgürtel Kinderkrankenhaus Margaretastr. Stegerwaldsiedlung Ebertplatz Subbelrather Str. Ensen Arnulfstr./ Rodenkirchen Herthastr. 17 Buchheim Frankfurter Str.

V. The furnishings in the 59 rooms have a comfortable. 369. Kölsch Kaviar (smoked blood sausage served with raw onion rings). MC. Unter Goldschmied 9–17. MC. Hämchen (cured pork knuckle cooked in vegetable broth). V. modern style. AE. Many have views of the Rhine and the cathedral on the other side. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across Roncalliplatz and south on Unter Goldschmied). visit one of the city’s old tavernrestaurants (see listings for Früh am Dom and Bräuhaus Sion. Hyatt Regency Köln $$ –$$$$ Deutz Located in Deutz. See map p. sauna. Rates: 160€–375€ ($200–$469) double. Dining in Cologne Although several highly rated restaurants have established themselves here in recent years. % 0180/523-1234 or 0221/ 828-1234. onions. Fax: 0221/ 206-2200.senats-hotel. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across the bridge). V.hotel-engelbertz. AE. stylish hotel with its bright-yellow lobby is located in the heart of the Altstadt. Matjesfilet mit grünen Bohnen (pickled white herring served with green butter beans and potatoes). 50667 Köln. Local dishes at these and other nongourmet restaurants generally include Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese). Fax: 0221/ 50679 Köln-Deutz. To eat and drink as the Kölner do. Tatar (finely minced raw beef mixed with egg yolk. MC. generally over enormous portions of typical Rhineland fare in crowded restaurants that are gemütlich (cozy) rather than elegant. Himmel und Äd (apples and . and east on Obenmarspforten).de. 369.regency. Rates: 120€–245€ ($150– $306).hyatt. later in this section). Rates: 100€ ($125) double. www. The 305 rooms are comfortably large and stylishly furnished. Rates include buffet breakfast. 369. % 0221/ Obenmarspforten 1–3. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. Fax: 0221/ 257-8924. north on Hohe Strasse. The hotel has a nice ambience throughout. and spices and served on bread or a roll). The Hyatt has fine restaurants and a fitness center with a pool. AE. DC. www. 50667 Köln.372 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. Rates include breakfast. www. Kennedy-ufer 2A. Cologne is not a city particularly known for its gourmet dining. % 0221/257-8994. Rather. it’s a place for conversation and drinking. Bathrooms are on the small side but vary according to the room. and steam room. a five-minute walk across the Rhine from the train station. Senats Hotel $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. See map this modern full-service hotel features a dramatic lobby with a waterfall and a glamorous overall ambience. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Gürzenichstrasse. Bathrooms have deep tubs with showers.

See map p. Main courses: 9. a double with bathroom and breakfast goes for 60€ ($ 75). U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north along the Rhine promenade. west on Mühlengasse. 369. The waiters always serve the beer in a tall. % 0221/257-8540. No credit cards. Expect to pay about 1. you can order a Kölsch from one of the blue-aproned waiters. called a Stangen. topfermented beer that’s brewed only in Cologne. The main courses are traditional and filling Rhineland fare.–11 p. AE.m. and the food portions inexpensive and generous.50€–23€ ($12–$28). a dry. Open: Daily 11 a. 369. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). called a Köbes. you’ll probably like Kölsch (koehlsch). Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This popular wine restaurant (and hotel.m. and north on Unter Taschenmacher). delicious. and potato dumplings. raisins. A Rhineland meat specialty is sauerbraten with almonds. Main courses 9€–16€ ($11–$20). V. Kölsch: Cologne’s beer of choice Even if you don’t like beer. Kölsch has an alcohol content of about 3 percent (most other types of German beer have an alcohol content ranging from 4 percent to 6 percent). marinated herring. Although the wine is the main reason for coming (the local Rhine wines are that special). and Speckpfannekuchen (pancakes fried in smoked bacon fat).Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 373 potatoes boiled and mashed together and served with fried blood sausage).m. Bräuhaus Sion $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN If you want a traditional local Bräuhaus where the beer is good. which they bring to your table in a special carrier called a Kölschkranz. MC. see “Staying in Cologne” earlier in this chapter) opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine. or sauerbraten (pot. the cuisine also is very good. Bockwurst (sausage) with potato salad. The menu also includes vegetarian and pasta dishes. Reservations recommended.50€ ($2) for a small glass of Kölsch on tap. Closed Dec 22–Jan 10. such as Riesenhämchen (boiled pigs’ knuckles) with sauerkraut. Unter Taschenmacher 5. .or oven-roasted marinated beef) with an almond-raisin sauce. or stuffed mushrooms. thin glass. % 0221/272-7777. Fish main courses include roasted pikeperch on lentils with balsamic vinegar and salmon poached in Rhine wine. Sion is the place. the wood paneling a little smoky with time and frequent polishing. The Bräuhaus also has a few rooms upstairs that it rents out. just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral. You may start with escargots. Open: Daily noon to 11:30 p. Fischmarkt 1–3. If you go to any of the taverns in town. See map p.

369.m. Open: 8 a. No credit cards.m. Main courses: 14€–30€ ($17–$37). Salzgasse 13. Hanse Stube $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH One of Cologne’s top gourmet restaurants. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. Fixed-price business lunch: 30€–38€ ($37–$47). See map p. on the ground floor. AE. how about strawberries with cappuccino-chocolate sauce? The wine list is exemplary. Open: Mon–Thurs 5 p. and leg of venison with a cognac-thyme sauce.m. MC. Other specialties include Sauerkrautsuppe (sauerkraut soup) and Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings).m. % 0221/261-3250. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. For dessert. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Salzgasse). to midnight.50€–19€ ($12–$24). V. DC. economy. The restaurant serves many Rhineland specialties and dishes influenced by French cuisine. 369. Hanse Stube offers excellent cuisine and service in quiet. this tavern also has a beer garden. with a different German specialty offered every day of the week. Fri 3 p. to midnight. elegant surroundings. . and hearty portions. The menu changes daily but may include crayfish and avocado salad or grilled scallops for starters. A step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered facade. You can eat in the upstairs or downstairs dining rooms (upstairs. Main courses: 9€–17€ ($11–$21). Fixed-price menus: 72€–79€ ($90–$99). a Cologne specialty of smoked pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and potato purée. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and across Roncalliplatz to Am Hof). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). See map p. MC.374 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Früh am Dom $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN This Bräuhaus is the best all-around for atmosphere. Sünner im Walfisch $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/FRENCH This Bräuhaus. iced melon risotto with shrimp skewer. Früh-Kölsch. Reservations recommended. V. it dates from 1626. to midnight. to midnight. on a narrow street set back from the Rhine. is a good choice for atmospheric dining. The menu is in English. In summer. the tavern’s beer on tap. Tasty main courses include basil risotto. Domplatz.m.000-year-old brewing tradition. has a 1. A favorite dish is Hämchen. Sat–Sun 11 a. You may try the pork cutlet with fried onions and crispy roast potatoes or the land-and-sea platter with roast beef and several kinds of fish. DC. % 0221/270-3402. Am Hof 12–14. Reservations recommended. and 6:30–10:30 p. Main courses: 9. is better). stuffed kohlrabi with truffle.m. 369. AE. See map p. % 0221/257-7879.

a twoday card costs 14€ ($17). is the most important part of the cathedral.). The choir.m. the Asian restaurant in the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. Consecrated in 1322. it’s a wonder that the Gothic facade is stylistically coherent. Upon completion. The restaurant’s striking design includes a serpentine fish tank built into the floor. housed in a glass case at the end of the choir. the roughly half-square-mile area of the original Roman colony. or more ambitious dishes such as sweet-and-sour prawn soup with baked pineapple. which can be visited only on guided tours. Fixed-price dinner menus: 49€–69€ ($61–$86). The giant reliquary is a masterpiece of goldsmith work dating from the end of the 12th century. The famous Three Kings windows in the clerestory (the area above the nave) were installed in the early 14th century. 369. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. % 0221/270-3910. DC. A one-day card costs 9€ ($11).Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Taku $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt JAPANESE/ASIAN 375 Taku. Main courses: 23€–37€ ($29–$46). the largest cathedral in northern Europe. The Dreikönigschrein (Shrine of the Three Magi). a beef filet salad. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. round off your visit with an evening stroll along the Rhine promenade in Deutz. and a one-day family/group card good for two adults and two children or three adults costs 18€ ($22). the cathedral .m. or curry with beef filet. V. seared monkfish with green mango salad. Domplatz. is a serenely comfortable spot to enjoy sea-fresh sushi and sashimi. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). the choir contains original. See map p. and 6–10 p. available from the tourist office. In addition to some magnificent Renaissance-era stained-glass windows in the north aisle. Exploring Cologne You find the cathedral and all the major museums in the Innenstadt. richly carved oak stalls. The Cologne Welcome Card. Dom (Cathedral) Considering how much time passed during the building of this gigantic edifice. AE. and a series of statues made in the cathedral workshop between 1270 and 1290. is good for travel on all forms of public transportation and gets you into most museums for free or at a reduced cost. More than 600 years elapsed from the laying of the cornerstone in 1248 to the placement of the last finial (a decorative element) on the south tower in 1880. screen paintings. MC. is the cathedral’s major treasure. After a day of sightseeing. The food is good. Overwhelming is the simplest way to describe it. the Cologne cathedral was the tallest building in the world. the service highly professional. its twin filigreed spires rising to a height of 157m (515 ft. Reservations recommended for dinner.

50€ ($3. among others.50€ ($6. you can climb the 509 stairs of the 14th-century south tower (entry through the Portal of St. On the ground floor and mezzanine. On the south side of the choir is Stephan Lochner’s altarpiece.m. The painting is a masterpiece of the Cologne school — Italian in format. Admission: 4. 3€ ($3. Open: Tues–Sun 11 a. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the Dom on Unter Fettenhenn to An der Rechtsschule). Give yourself about an hour to see everything.10) children and students. include rooms and furniture by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. 369. You get a great view of the cathedral and the river traffic along the Rhine.. Sun 2 and 3:30 p.75) children.20€ ($5. % 0221/9258-4730.25) adults.–6 p. Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) The treasures on display in this museum include furniture. 2. 2€ ($2. you’re in reasonably good shape. An der Rechtsschule. German architect Mies van der Rohe. Admission: Cathedral free. Tours: English-language tours Mon–Sat 11 a. The Gero Cross.–5 p. If. created around 1445.m. and 3:30 p.90) adults.50) children and students.m.m. Admission: Round-trip ticket 5. 1€ ($1. You can make a circuit of the interior in about half an hour. Riehler Strasse 180. Domkloster.m.25) children and students.m. See map p. the exhibits. home décor. The trip takes about 15 minutes each way. exclusively from the 20th century. the enclosed gondolas cross the river beside the Zoobrücke (Zoo Bridge) between the Rheinpark in Deutz and the zoo. the guided tours last one hour. U-Bahn: Zoo/Flora (then a 2-minute walk south to the departure point on the west side of the river). tower daily 9 a.60€ ($3.m. and the American designer Charles Eames. and handicrafts from the Middle Ages to the present day. In operation since 1957. the first and only cable-car system in Europe designed to span a major river.25) adults. 2. 369. Open: Cathedral daily 6 a. The cathedral’s Schatzkammer (Treasury) is rather disappointing..376 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany really has only two other must-see treasures.– 6 p.m. % 0221/221-23860. 369.25) children 6–12.m. See map p.. See map p. 2. Flemish in the precision of its execution.m. (winter until dusk). and you aren’t missing much if you skip it. Adoration of the Magi. tour cost: 4€ ($5) adults.–5 p. is a rare monumental sculpture carved in Cologne in the late tenth century and reputedly the oldest-existing large-scale crucifix in the Western world. Peter) for an inspiring view of the city and the Rhine. The Art Nouveau room is particularly impressive.–7:30 p. Open: Apr–Oct daily 10 a. tower alone 2€ ($2.50) adults. Kölner Seilbahn (Cologne Cable Car) You get the best panoramic view of the city of Cologne by taking the Kölner Seilbahn. % 0221/547-4184.m. . treasury daily 10 a.m. and 12:30. treasury and tower combined 5€ ($6. hanging in a chapel on the north side of the choir.m. on the other hand. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (you see the cathedral as you come out of the train station).

The Agfa-Foto-Historama. 369.50€ ($7) children and students. is the tomb of Lucius Poblicius.50) adults. . 5. 50. Give yourself at least an hour. on the right side of the museum is Hafenstrasse. trade and industry. The area became a military garrison with an imperial shrine and eventually was granted rights as a Roman city called Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (CCAA) in A. Museum Ludwig This museum. Centuries before the symbol became ominously identified with the atrocities of the Third Reich. You need at least an hour to browse through the entire museum.–6 p. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and east on Roncalliplatz). which extols the joys of good living. The Roman-Germanic Museum was built around the magnificent Dionysius mosaic. you find an ancient black-andwhite mosaic floor covered with swastikas.D. The exhibits explore themes or types: religious life. is inextricably bound with the history of Rome — a legacy that is documented in this fascinating museum. Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) Cologne’s history.m.. See map p.D. 401.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 377 The Roman city of Colonia By 50 B.D. Julius Caesar had extended the borders of the Roman Empire as far as the Rhine and established an alliance with the Germanic Ubii tribe on the site of presentday Cologne. % 0221/221-22379. Towering over the mosaic. and the fabric of the city today. Before you enter. the swastika — probably Indian in origin — was a symbol of good luck and happiness. Admission: 7. 40 for a Roman officer. On the lowest level. when the Roman legions were recalled from the Rhine frontier. Cologne’s Roman period lasted until A. Exhibits represent nearly every major artist and art movement of the 20th century. the cult of the dead.C. more if you love modern art. opened in 1986. it is the largest antique tomb ever found north of the Alps. devoted to the daily life of the Romans. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. look at the section of the Roman North Gate preserved on Domplatz in front of the cathedral. On the second floor. and so on. which once ran down to the Roman harbor. dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art. constructed around A. a street paved with its original stones. a museum within the museum. and was known in Latin as the crux gamata. The museum covers the period that extends from the Stone Age to the period of Charlemagne (9th century). produced in a Rhineland workshop in the third century and discovered in 1941 by workers digging an air-raid shelter. is devoted to the history of photography. Portions of an original Roman wall still stand beneath Domplatz in the underground parking lot. you can see a superlative collection of Roman glassware and a world-renowned collection of Roman jewelry. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1.50€ ($9.m.

which becomes Cäcilienstrasse).25) adults.m. % 0221/221-22310. Schnütgen Museum The Romanesque church of St. Ursula in particular. Here you find Rubens’s Self-Portrait Amidst the Circle of Friends from Mantua and an enigmatic self-portrait by Rembrandt. 369. In addition to important French and Spanish works.80€ ($7.m. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a.m. around the back. among scores of others.m. Cecilia. Wallraf-Richartz Museum The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is one of the country’s greatest repositories of art from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century.m. a skeleton has been spray-painted on the walled-in western portal of the church. the museum boasts a rich collection of 19th-century paintings. you find an outstanding collection of paintings by the medieval Cologne school (most done between 1330 and 1550). the museum also is one of Germany’s oldest. Many of the paintings and altarpieces depict legends from the lives of martyred saints who became identified with the “Holy Cologne” of the Middle Ages — St. The relics. Open: Tues 10 a. 3. and sculpture on display give you an idea of the artistic blessings bestowed upon “Holy Cologne. Called simply Tod (Death). Give yourself about two hours if you want to browse through all the galleries.. 369.m.–6 p. crucifixes. and Vincent van Gogh. Roncalliplatz 4. with major pieces by the German Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich.m. Opened in 1861.30€ ($4) students and children. splendid sampling of sacred art from the early Middle Ages to the baroque. U-Bahn: Neumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Pipinstrasse. Admission: 5.–5 p.378 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p.m. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Unter Käster to Martinstrasse).20€ ($4) adults. patron saint of music) houses one of Cologne’s finest art collections. See map p. See map p. reliquaries. this oddly engaging work is by the Zurich graffiti artist Harald Nägele. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk south past the cathedral to Roncalliplatz).90€ ($2. Sat–Sun 11 a.– 6 p. 3.m. Try not to miss this small. A memorable collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings holds pride of place on the second floor.–5 p. Gustave Courbet. Martinstrasse 39. On the first floor. .m. 369.m. Sat–Sun 11 a. Admission: 6.95€ ($5) children.–8 p. Cäcilienstrasse 29. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.. The Renaissance section includes works by Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach.” Outside. The new museum nicely shows off the art but somehow feels like an office building from the 1950s. % 0221/221-22304. 1. Admission: 3.–5 p. Wed–Fri 10 a. Edvard Munch. % 0221/221-21119.50) children.45€ ($8) adults. the museum moved to a new building designed by Cologne architect Oswald Mathias Ungers.m.. Cäcilien (St. In 2000. Auguste Renoir.

organ grinders. as soap. Roncalliplatz 4. The Mühlens family. the main north–south street in Roman times.koelnticket.50€/$2) at newsstands). Hohe Strasse. On Hohe Strasse and its surrounding streets. snack shops. 4711 Haus. and endless stores. stocks a large selection of art postcards and greeting cards. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). Three specialty shops worth knowing about: Schirmbusch. Walter König’s Postkartenlade. To find out what’s going on in the city. jammed every day except Sunday with shoppers. 4711 Any kind of toilet water is now called “eau de Cologne. stores selling silver. and the big department stores. and French. another early producer of Kölnisch Wasser. sells the orange-and-lavender-scented water first developed in Cologne in 1709 by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 379 Cologne from Cologne: No. and Italian designer shoes. Apostelnstrasse 21 (% 0221/257-0108). fine leather bags and purses. next to the cathedral (% 0221/2801.” or simply “cologne. and perfumeries. Breite Strasse 93. you find all the major international designer-clothing boutiques. pick up a copy of Monats Vorschau (1. Cologne offers a variety of fine arts and nightlife options. You can buy 4711 cologne in all sizes and shapes. and Filz Gnoss. Shopping in Cologne The first Füssgänger (pedestrians-only) shopping zones in Germany originated in Cologne and present a seemingly endless and interconnected conglomeration of shops and shopping arcades. fine jewelry. carries a huge selection of umbrellas. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Glockengasse 4711 (% 0221/925-0450. You can purchase tickets at a venue’s box office (Kasse) or at Köln MusikTicket. sells unusually decorated and comfortable felt slippers and those enormous Überpantoffeln you slip over your shoes and slide around in when touring German palaces. . Ehrenstrasse 104. and even as premoistened towelettes.25). fruit sellers. is now Cologne’s busiest commercial drag. Schildergasse is where you find international men’s fashions. 4711. Discovering nightlife in Cologne One of Germany’s major cultural centers. also lived and worked in this house at no.” but Echt Kölnisch Wasser (the original eau de Cologne) remains the official designation of origin for the distinctive toilet waters created in the city of Cologne. musicians. The street number eventually became the trademark name for their product. The smallest bottle costs about 5€ ($6. German.

www.buehnenkoeln. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1 (% 0221/2801.. and . completed in the late 1980s. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). U-Bahn: Neumarkt). Offenbachplatz (% 0221/22128400.m. Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). Stephansstrasse 4 (% 0221/238-730. to 3 a. to 3 a. a good gay bar for men and women. E-Werk is open every Friday and Saturday night at 10 p. U-Bahn: Keupstrasse). Zulpicher Strasse 10 (% 0221/170-2764. The Schauspielhaus. Alter Markt 50–52 (% 0221/258-2132. Friday and Saturday from 9 a. is best on Sunday.m. Tickets range from 11€ to 100€ ($14–$125).koelner-philharmonie. Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal.m. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). U-Bahn: Neumarkt). U-Bahn: Zulpicherplatz). each with its own performances and schedules. is near Marienplatz at Pipinstrasse 7 (% 0221/258-1414. Jazz clubs Klimperkasten (also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon).m.380 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Performing arts The Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. The most sophisticated rendezvous for gays and lesbians in Cologne is Gloria. Quo Vadis Pub. on the weekend. Schanzenstrasse 28 (% 0221/962-790. Apostelnstrasse 11 (% 0221/254-433. Gay and lesbian bars Chains. U-Bahn: Neumarkt).m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).m. The hall also presents pop and jazz is a combination disco–concert hall housed within a former electrical power plant. open Sunday to Thursday from 9 a. Buttermarkt 37 (% 0221/257-7931.m. is a small and intimate jazz and piano bar with live music every night beginning around 8 p. Dance programs also take place here. to 2 or 3 a. is the Rhineland’s leading opera house.m. anywhere from 8€ to 80€ ($10–$100).de.m. is open from 10 p. to 1 a. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/8400. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Live bands and DJs play for dancers at MTC.m. Dance clubs E-Werk. is the home of two fine orchestras: the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra). www. open from 10 p. with a cover of 4€ to 10€ ($5–$13). The bar is open daily from noon to midnight during the week and from 11 a. when the music begins at 3:30 p. is the site of three theaters. to 1 a.m. Recorded music alternates with live acts. a gay leather bar in the Marienplatz area.m. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). according to the event. Ticket prices vary.m.

serves its Kölsch brand of beer. 2500 Westchester Ave.m. The tavern is open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to midnight. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. and returning at 7:20 p.m. the cost is 9. U-Bahn: Friesenplatz). A daily Nachmittags (afternoon) cruise with Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) leaves at 3:30 p. Purchase.m. The KD ticket booth and boarding point is right on the river.k-d. along with regional cuisine. and 8:20 p.m. represented in North America by JFO Cruise Service. U-Bahn: Heumarkt).com). lasts until 1 a.. or visit the company’s Web site at www. If you want to see the most scenic stretch of the Rhine.. to 2 a.m. and 6 p. a 110-year-old tavern. The tavern is open daily from 10 a. Altstadt Päffgen. NY 10577 (% 800/346-6525). southwest of Cologne. For more information on Rhine River cruises. to midnight. rivercruises. offers boat tours of the Rhine from Cologne. and 9:45 a. Even if you don’t have time for a long Rhine cruise.m. The Mosel Valley: Great Wines.80€ ($8. www.m. The club doesn’t charge a cover.m.m. take one of KD’s daylong cruises between Mainz and Koblenz..50). Seating is available indoors and out.80€ ($12). Kölsch.m. and returns at 5:45 p. Prerecorded commentary in English plays on both of these sightseeing cruises.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 381 Cruises along the Rhine Cologne is a major embarkation point for Rhine cruises. The club is also open for live jazz Monday to Saturday from 7 p. KD (Köln–Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt). Taverns Päffgen Bräuhaus. Heumarkt 62 (% 0221/257-7765. is a scenic winegrowing region like the nearby Rheingau (see the “Sampling the wines of Rheingau” sidebar in this chapter). 2 p. also serves the local departing Mainz daily at 8:45 a. with the legendary Lorelei rock and many hilltop castles. The cost is 6. you can enjoy a trip on the river aboard one of the many local boats. Winding through the steep slopes of the Eifel and .m.. The tour departs daily at 10:30 a. The one-hour Panorama Rundfahrt (round-trip) is a pleasant way to see the stretch of Rhine immediately around Cologne. The round-trip cost is 46€ ($57). with German dishes.m. Friesenstrasse 64–66 (% 0221/135-461. a short walk south from the cathedral. Frankenwerft 15 (% 0221/208-8318. Beautiful Scenery The Mosel Valley. noon.m.

A return boat departs at 3:40 p.cochem. The castle. a full 10 percent of the national total. . Monday through Thursday 9 a. From late April to late October. Its beautiful scenery.m. and Friday 9 a. fine wine.m. Cochem is your best choice for an overnight stopover between Koblenz and Trier. Admission is 4.382 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hunsruck hills in the German state of Rheinland-Palatinate. From there. and Sunday in July and August from 9 a. Monday through Friday 9 a. the most famous and photographed sight along the Mosel River. For information. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and halftimbered houses make the Mosel Valley a prime area for exploration. boats depart daily from Koblenz at 9:45 a. The office also is open Saturday from May through August from 9 a.50) for adults and 2.m. is open November through March.m.m. www. You can also reach Cochem by train from either of those cities. Roman ruins. celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. the Mosel Valley follows the course of the Mosel River (spelled Moselle in English) for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. April through October. a boat operated by KD (% 0221/20881. medieval castles. is open daily mid-March to November 9 a. the easiest way is to take a train to Koblenz. where the waters flow into the Rhine. and arrive in Cochem at 3 p. to 5 p.. Endertplatz 1 (% 0267/60040. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week).. If you’re driving through the Mosel Valley. to 5 sails down the Mosel to Cochem. The A49 Autobahn runs between Koblenz and Trier.m. The round-trip fare is 22€ ($28). to noon. the prettier A53 runs alongside the Mosel between Zell and Schweich. www.m.m. to 1 p.m. Touring the valley by boat or car If you’re headquartering in Cologne and want to enjoy a boat cruise down the Mosel River. Cochem is a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. to 6 p. contact the Cochem tourist information office.k-d. a restored 11th-century castle at the top of the hill behind the town. Stopping in Cochem About halfway down the Mosel River from Koblenz is Cochem. begins the first week of June. and 2 to 5 p. Cochem’s biggest attraction is Reichsburg Cochem (% 02671/255).) The valley encompasses thousands of acres of vineyards.m.50€ ($3) for children and students.m. The tourist information office.m. 51km (32 miles) southwest of Koblenz. to 6 p. The similar Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August.m.50€ ($5. (See “The Mosel Valley” map in this chapter.m. arriving in Koblenz at 8 p. a medieval riverside town surrounded by

fax: 02671/4202). and kept warm at your table with a hot stone. Try the trademark dish of fresh trout stuffed with herbs.m. A creaking wooden staircase (you can also take the elevator) leads to most of the 35 rooms. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. added a modern wing and became a hotel in 1960.6km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem. For a fine meal. Diners Club. All major credit cards are accepted. 1. Rack rates range from 77€ to 115€ ($96–$144) for a double. Alte Thorschenke. . MasterCard.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 383 The Mosel Valley A61 Nürburg E RM Cologne 410 E31 AN Y Mendig Mayen Koblenz A48 E44 Berlin A1 G Area of Detail Gerolstein 410 Kelburg Daun A48 E44 Lahnstein Kaiseresch Burg Eltz Alken 49 Boppard Ulmen 257 Mosel Moselkern 327 A61 Cochem A1 49 Meisburg Beilstein Senheim Bullay E31 Alf Marienburg A60 53 Wittlich Bitburg 51 Zell Traben-Trarbach Simmern M osel Bernkastel-Kues 269 421 Gemünden XEM– EM URG RG E44 327 Morbach 269 0 10 mi Kirn 0 10 km 41 N Trier A1 Idar-Oberstein 270 41 420 Both a hotel and a wine restaurant. and 6 to 9 p. all contain shower-tub combinations. The restaurant is open daily from noon to 2 p. Endertstrasse 1 (% 02671/8955). drive to Enterttal. 56812 Cochem (% 02671/7059. A few of the rooms have four-poster beds. originally built in 1332. and Visa are accepted. buffet breakfast included. Main courses range from 15€ to 25€ ($19–$31). baked.m. Brückenstrasse 3. The half-timbered structure. and dine at Weissmühle im Enterttal.

and other fruit trees and its sheltered sunny slopes covered with vineyards. 367) follows a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine west of Wiesbaden to the attractive Rhine-side town of Bingen. get plenty of sunshine and comparatively little rain. and festivals. conditions the Romans recognized as perfect for grape-growing. is like a northern extension of Italy. the Rheingau’s unofficial capital. as reflected in its economy. The Rheingau wine district (see “The Rhineland” map p.384 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Sampling the wines of Rheingau The Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. you sail through this scenic winegrowing region. fig. If you take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz (see the “Cruises along the Rhine” sidebar in this chapter). Eighty percent of this wine comes from the Riesling grape. If you’re driving. The wind-sheltered southern slopes of the Taunus range. Vineyards have produced wine here since Roman times. on the river’s northern bank. . cherry. The Rheingau wine grapes produce a delicately fruity wine with a full aroma. with its almond. the B42 highway runs beside the river between Boppard and Eltville. traditions. This part of the Rhineland not only turns out fine wines but has been fundamentally formed by the culture of wine. and wine fans consider Rheingau Rieslings to be among the best white wines made anywhere.

Leveled during Allied bombing raids in World War II (WWII). .Chapter 20 Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Frankfurt ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Strolling through the Altstadt ᮣ Discovering Apfelwein. Because the Frankfurt airport serves as the country’s main international hub.000 American soldiers were stationed in Frankfurt until 1990. and more L ocated on the River Main.) Frankfurt has been a major banking city since the Rothschilds opened their first bank here more than 200 years ago. a fact that helps account for all those designer skyscrapers (more than in any other German city. Today. great shopping. and a lively nightlife. Germany’s central bank. the city is a tourist destination with fine museums and art collections. a rich cultural life. a small portion of Frankfurt’s Altstadt (Old Town) was lovingly rebuilt. Frankfurt is the financial center not only of Germany but also of the entire European Union (EU). A very strong American presence exists in this city on the Main. and sometimes called “Mainhattan” because of its skyscraper-studded skyline. cabaret. (See the “Frankfurt am Main” map in this chapter. cosmopolitan city. Frankfurt definitely focuses on business. many travelers get their first introduction to Germany in this city. Millions of visitors descend on the city during its trade shows in spring and autumn. Nearly 40. At last count. But Frankfurt is first and foremost a modern. The best known is the International Book Fair. Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city. and including the tallest building in Europe). the most important meeting place in the world for the acquisition and sale of book rights and translations. Besides being a muchvisited business center. and the Central Bank of the EU. The huge symbol that stands on Willy-Brandt-Platz in front of the new opera house can be regarded as the city’s logo. nearly 450 banks maintained headquarters here. home of the Bundesbank.

BH ocke nhe imer str. Zeil TAUNUSANLANGE U J 7 u n g hof An der Hauptwache Ne ue MESSE W Güterplatz Goetheplatz 8 9 9 Str. HAUPTWACHE hst oc U Börse Gr. R r. Ma inz Str. University enberg nstr. ner erli bach B r au 10 12 11 es ten ds tra sse er Un te r ma inb r. s se All ee U Mique l e alle er S tra GRÜNEBURG PARK Holzh rass e ausen str. Senck Linde B o c k e nh e i m er lsso nde Me dts tr. Beethove nstr. r. nstr. Freidb nFurste rstr. str nu Tau tr. Lei Fa pzi üc lk B re m g er e anlag Schumannstr./ADICKESALLEE Berlin M i q u e l a ll e e U A di e c k e s A l le ene Eyss Ha nsa GERMANY ckst Frankfurt am Main Munich C ro n ste tten str. 4 r. ka i ai n MUSEUMSUFER Sch s Leu ch ne r te 17 16 Un rm M ha GUTLEUTVIERTEL t t s leu ai nk ai um 15 n ai B 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters 13 U N Ke i Information S-Bahn U-Bahn Station Güterbahnhof Oppenheim nn ed ya lle e Gu t er Fran z St HOLZHAUSENSTRASSE r. fenstr Gärtnerweg ESCHENHEIMER TOR Rothschild’s Rothschild Park Alte Oper An l . U Kais er chen Mun tr. U 5 6 2 Guiollett str. ers Str.386 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankfurt am Main Hamburg MIQ. we ize rP l. ss Willy-BrandtPlatz U THEATERPLATZ i s tr. Wolfg angst tra sse U Ba us GRÜNEBURGWEG 1 WESTEND Bock enh ei m er L and 3 str a ss e r. berge st angg Wo l f Gr ün ebu rg w eg urgstr. Fri ed se ras Sc 14 e U en sb rü ck SCHWEIZERPLATZ . Ar n HAUPTBAHNHOF in Ma ze a rL nd . ayer st Stau . ke st r a l l ee ss e ra Grüneburgweg Siesn Feld bur gstr.

as Ro ths rL d an str as se ACCOMMODATIONS M Der Messe 2 An Hilton Frankfurt 5 Hotel am Dom 26 Hotel Robert Mayer 1 Hotelschiff Peter Schlott 13 str er rg Bu Mozart 4 Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof 9 se rtm an -Ib ac hs tr.-Miller Str. a W S Gr. p k ar str as se Anla Floberb rücke ge erm Ob n a n lage ds t ainbr. ann OSTHAFEN ATTRACTIONS Deutsch herr nufe Main r fs tra G erb ermühl str. Parad iesga Se eh o sse de ls w .Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 387 Nib U ADICKES/ NIBELUNGENALLE elun E c k enh ei m gen Alle e Ha NORDEND U Neuh ofstr. Zoo rte n Rö db urg w. Heinrich-HoffmanMuseum 3 Historisches Museum 10 Kaiserdom 20 Liebieghaus 14 Main Tower 7 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 18 Museum für Moderne Kunst 21 Römer and Römerberg 22 Städelsches Kunstinstitut/ Städtische Galerie 15 Struwwelpeter-Museum 19 Os t L a n d s t r a ss e U Hö he MARIANPLATZ W ald sc n Ha rg A lle e bs bu rg er Landwehr Al W Ha bs bu r he ac e sb Alle e t it lee Bu rg . ch ild Al GLAUBERGSTRASSE lee rg L a n d strasse al ee Se b ck ac he BORNHEIM MITTE U rs be l Saa HÖHENSTRASSE U Bornheimer Gü BORNHEIM lbu he nt d b e rger Bu s rg tr./ ALTE GASSE U ie ile db r erg 25 stra er sse KONSTABLERWACHE 24 RathenauU Zeil platz Am T ie Lan r ga A LT S TA D T RÖMER 21 U B a tto n n stra sse se s t ra s 19 20 22 Ma i n K a i EisernerSteg ckWe r k t ma 26 Schöne Au ssicht 23 Oberm 18 Sach s e n h ä u s e r U fer olb rK lte tr. ss e DINING eg Exedra 25 Haus Wertheym 12 Konditoriei Hollhorst 11 Main Tower Restaurant & Bar 7 Restaurant Français 9 Tiger Restaurant. str Bethmann’s Bethmann Park Se Fr OSTEND all ee rg hm er idts t r. Palastbar. Obermainkai nem str. Rit te r gasse SACHSENHAUSEN Da rm s t ä d ter Landstrass e W en ai i Oste ndst rasse ra sse n So Oskar-v. and Tiger-Bistrot 24 Weinhaus Brückenkeller 23 Deutsches Architektur Museum 16 Deutsches Filmmuseum 17 Eschenheimer Tor 6 Eschenheimer Turm 6 Goethe-Haus S tralenberge 8 r str. Fri e MUSTERSCHULE U E sc he n m hei er VILBELER S.

chances are you’ll land at the city’s airport. and Washington. a bus terminal. Montreal.m. D. Regional and local trains operate from the Regional Station directly below Terminal 1. Terminal 2 handles international flights.25). Dresdner Bank. lies 11km (7 miles) from the city center. These two S-Bahn lines take you to Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) in about ten minutes. The airport has two railway stations. with direct flights from many U. Taking the train into the city The simplest method for getting into the city from the airport is by train. rail lines. A one-way ticket costs 5€ ($6. Platform 1. (RMV are the initials of the public transportation authority. Flughafen (a reduced-price one-day transportation ticket within Frankfurt. Miami. Level 0 (% 069/691-844). Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (% 069/6901. Denver. Newark. If you fly into Germany from outside of Europe. Dallas. including the trip from the airport). Hopping a bus into the city If you want to travel to the city center by bus. . They are marked: Einzelfahrt Frankfurt (single ticket to Frankfurt) and Tageskarte Frankfurt inkl. and Finanz Bank) with currency exchange windows.C. Europe’s busiest airport and Germany’s major international gateway. this airport serves more than 110 countries worldwide. S8 and S9 trains (direction Offenbach or Hanau) to Frankfurt’s city center depart about every ten minutes from the regional train station. Toronto. Boston. frankfurt-airport. you have many options from which to choose. www. Chicago. including Atlanta. check when you purchase your The RMV ticket machines have special fast-selection buttons for the S-Bahn journey to Frankfurt. and Canadian cities. Privately operated currency exchanges (Travelex is one) and ATMs are also there. By plane The city’s airport. in which you find many banks (Commerz Bank. to 11:30 p. Tickets are available from the RMV ticket machines (with English translations) at the regional station and at the Deutsche Bahn (DB) Travel Center. A people-mover system (called Sky Line) links the two airport terminals. New York.388 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting There All roads. Terminal 1. Pittsburgh. Some airlines offer special shuttle-bus services to Frankfurt from the airport. The long-distance AIRail Terminal links the airport to cities throughout Germany and neighboring countries. open daily from 6 a. Portland (Oregon). Terminal 1 handles most European flights.S. and air corridors lead to Frankfurt. Philadelphia.m. and several carrental offices. You find bus stops in front of Terminal 1 on the arrivals level and in front of Terminal 2 on Level 2. SEB Bank. Detroit.

bahn. .m. Cologne. www. www. the A60 connects with the A66. ߜ Tourist Information Römer.m. to 6 p. From the west.. to 9 p. west of the Altstadt. to 6 p. By car The A3 and A5 autobahns intersect near Frankfurt’s airport.frankfurt-tourismus. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861.m. and Munich.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 389 Catching a cab into the city A taxi ride from the airport to the city center costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 20 minutes. Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt The River Main divides Frankfurt.m. Nürnberg. to 5:30 p. Switzerland. The Altstadt contains an even older section referred to as the Innenstadt. or Inner City. which leads to Frankfurt. Concentrated in the city center around the Altstadt are hotels.m. including schedules and fares. The A3 comes in from the Netherlands. with connections to all major German and European cities. is a residential and embassy quarter. You find currency-exchange windows and bank ATMs in the station. Taxis are available in front of the terminals. to 4 p. You find most of the historic sights and several museums in the Altstadt on the north bank.m. and Bonn and continues east and south to Würzburg. Finding Information After You Arrive You find tourist information in two locations: ߜ Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof.. The huge. to 9 p.m.10). It was the only part of Frankfurt that was not destroyed during the WWII Allied bombing of the city. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. and nightlife. The A5 comes from the northeast (Hannover) and continues south to Heidelberg and Basel.m. restaurants.50€ ($ is open Monday to Friday 8 a. opposite the main entrance of the train station (% 069/2123-8800. de).m. By train Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof is the busiest train station in Europe.m. This office offers a hotel-booking service for 2. Römerberg 27 (% 069/2123-8800).m. Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. is open Monday to Friday from 8 a. in the Altstadt. For travel information. modern Frankfurt Messe (trade-fair convention center) is considered part of the Westend. The exclusive Westend district. Saturday and Sunday 9 a. opposite the main entrance (% 069/2123-8800). Saturday and Sunday from 10 a..

For longer distances. some of them housed in former riverside villas. a tram.30€ ($3) for children. Buy your ticket before you board the U-Bahn or a tram in Frankfurt (on a bus you can buy a ticket f