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by Donald Olson

Germany For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http:// Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. . All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2007925980 ISBN: 978-0-470-08956-9 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the Author
Novelist, playwright, and travel writer Donald Olson is the author of the award-winning England For Dummies, London For Dummies, Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London, and Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria. Under the pen name Swan Adamson he has written the novels My Three Husbands — now translated into four languages — and Confessions of a Pregnant Princess (both published by Kensington, New York), as well as Memoirs Are Made of This (Hodder Headline, London). Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, National Geographic Books, and many other publications.

To Gary Larson, with thanks for his help in Germany and with life in general.

Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank RailEurope for its generous assistance.

Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Lindsay Conner, Production Editor; Amy Lyons, Development Editor Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Editorial Assistant: Melinda Quintero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard J. Pacifico Cover Photos: Front: Bavaria, Ramsau © Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Getty Images Back: © Frank Rothe/Getty Images Cartoons: Rich Tennant ( Composition Services Project Coordinator: Lynsey Osborn Layout and Graphics: Claudia Bell, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie D. Jumper, Melanee Prendergast Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: Aptara, David Faust, Cynthia Fields, Melanie Hoffman, Todd Lothery, Charles Spencer Indexer: Aptara

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a Glance
Introduction .......................................................1 Part I: Introducing Germany................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ....................................15 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..............................25 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ..............39

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ..............49
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................51 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ......................................................63 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ............................................71 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................82 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ......................90 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ......................99

Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........109
Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin ..................................................111 Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin........................................................139 Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North ................................................175 Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East....................................................................207

Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..........243
Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit ..........................245 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria................................................284 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights ....................................................311 Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers ................................................................337 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ................365 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros ..........385

Part V: The Part of Tens ..................................409
Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons......................411 Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ..............................415 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............420

Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................423 Index .............................................................433


......................................................................................................383 Frankfurt am Main ..................................291 Augsburg ...............................................................................................................................................................225 Leipzig S-Bahn ......................................................................................................................................................................295 Füssen ...........................287 Würzburg ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................391 ...........275 The Romantic Road ......176 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn .......................................................................................248 Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn .........355 The Rhineland ........................................367 Cologne ................................303 Garmisch-Partenkirchen .........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................321 Baden-Baden .......................................................................................................268 Deutsches Museum ......................................................................................................................................235 Munich Neighborhoods ................................116 Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining .......................................................................................................................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................254 Central Munich Attractions.........................................................................................................................................................195 Lübeck .......313 Lindau .....................................199 Saxony and Thuringia .....................................................351 Nuremberg.............................145 Berlin-Mitte Attractions .....371 The Mosel Valley.................................................................................169 Hamburg ...............................147 Potsdam ......................................................................211 The Zwinger...............27 Berlin Neighborhoods ......................271 The Residenz......................Maps at a Glance The Regions in Brief .................................................................................................181 Bremen.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................329 Heidelberg ........................................................................................................................................................................127 Tiergarten-Area Attractions ..............209 Dresden ..............................................................251 Central Munich Accommodations and Dining .............369 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn .....................................................................221 Leipzig .................227 Weimar .......................307 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ...........................................................................................349 Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn..................................................................386 Frankfurt U-Bahn and S-Bahn .....................................................143 Charlottenburg Attractions .................................................................................................................................315 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) .323 Freiburg .........124 Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining ....................................339 Stuttgart .............................................................................................................


....13 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ..................21 Books (fiction and nonfiction) ...........................................10 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes......4 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ..28 Wending through western Germany.........7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ................................................15 The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History............30 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons ..............25 Going Where You Want to Be................................................................................................... and Ballet...........................................................................................11 Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities ..15 Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture ...................................................12 Enjoying the Best in Classical Music..............5 Icons Used in This Book..........................................................................11 Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces..............18 Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany ..............3 How This Book Is Organized..........................................19 Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies...................................................................................................23 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go .................................................................................................................25 Exploring eastern Germany .............................6 Part I: Introducing Germany............4 Part I: Introducing Germany ..........9 Discovering the Best Big German Cities............................................2 Conventions Used in This Book .........................................................26 Savoring southern Germany.......................................4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany .31 Watching those unpredictable skies .................6 Where to Go from Here.........3 Foolish Assumptions ......................................5 Part V: The Part of Tens .....................................30 Traveling during high and low seasons ..................................................21 Movies .............................Table of Contents Introduction .............................1 About This Book....29 Scheduling Your Time............................... Opera....................................25 Discovering northern Germany .............................31 ...................4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany .......................

..............................................61 Taking Taxes into Account...............39 East Side......................................... 3rd Edition Blossoming in spring ............37 November ..................................................................................................................................................................35 June..............................63 Flying into Frankfurt ...........36 September.........35 January.................................................................................................39 Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week................................59 Charging ahead with credit cards.....xii Germany For Dummies...45 Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers ..................... West Side: Germany in Two Weeks ................................54 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun .............................................................................66 ................................................37 December..............38 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ........................54 Shopping and nightlife costs ................................................................................................................................................................................34 Perusing a Calendar of Events......51 Lodging expenses .............60 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet ............................................62 A Tip about Tipping ......59 Toting traveler’s checks........................................................................................................63 Flying into other German airports.........................................................................33 Welcoming winter ..................................................63 Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where ...........................37 October ...................................62 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ...................................................................................................................................................36 July.........36 August .....................35 February..........................................................................32 Shining (and raining) in summer ......................57 Handling Money .........51 Planning Your Budget ..............51 Transportation costs.............................................65 Booking your flight online .....................................................53 Sightseeing expenses ..........................................................................35 May ....................49 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money .............................................................................58 Using ATMs and carrying cash........................................................................................47 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ......................33 Glowing in autumn................................................................................41 Discovering Germany with Kids...................................64 Getting the best airfare ...................................

..............................................................Table of Contents xiii Arriving by Other Means.91 Hiring a baby sitter in Germany...........77 Taking the roads less traveled ..................................................................90 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families ....................................80 Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? ..................................................................80 Fill ’er up......75 German rail passes: For Deutschland only............................................................................................67 Arriving by boat ..............................................74 Reserving your seat.89 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests .........69 Locating airline and hotel packages....... Tankstellen.................90 Locating family-friendly businesses .............................................92 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors ...85 Pensions.............................................................................................................74 Getting off on the right track.........86 Surfing the Web for hotel deals.................76 Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe ..............70 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ...............................87 Reserving the best room................................ and Benzin...............83 Luxury hotels ...........79 Handling a roadside emergency...........84 Boutique hotels.......72 Heading to the Hauptbahnhof....................................86 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate.......................................81 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ......71 Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go.................85 Guesthouses ......................................................................................................77 Renting a car in Germany ............................84 Chain hotels.........................................67 Traveling by train .........................................80 Sailing through Germany: River Cruises .......82 Finding the Place That’s Right for You ...............................................................................68 Tour operators in the United States........................................................................... bitte (please)....................................................76 Touring by Car: Autobahns......71 Weighing the Options: Train or Car? ...............69 Choosing a package tour ........................................................................................................................................72 Following basic training .................................84 Smaller independent hotels................................................................78 Following the rules of the road .........................................................................92 ...67 Joining an Escorted Tour .................................75 Saving time and euros with rail passes...................

........................................................................97 Researching German lesbigay life on the Web .............................................................122 Driving a car .....115 Orienting Yourself in Berlin ........................ passport....113 Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof....................94 Locating resources ..................................................104 Accessing the Internet away from home ........................................................ S-Bahn......................xiv Germany For Dummies...... .......123 The top hotels ..........................112 By train......................................................................120 Going public: U-Bahn.......................................................................................................99 Getting a Passport.119 Getting Around Berlin..................................97 Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany................................ and Strassenbahn ...................95 Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians ..........101 Staying Healthy When You Travel..................................................................................................................106 Keeping Up with Airline Security ......104 Using a cellphone outside the U................................................113 By car ..............................................................................................103 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail....................................100 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance ...................115 Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) .........................120 Taking a taxi......................... bus............................109 Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin.....98 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details..........................................................114 Finding Information After You Arrive .99 Applying for a U.................................................................S.....94 Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair)..99 Applying for other passports ..96 Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators................................111 Getting There....123 Runner-up hotels .......105 Going Wireless......................130 .......................................107 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........................................................115 Introducing western Berlin.................................................. 3rd Edition Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities .......S.....................122 Staying in Style ................................112 By plane ...........................................................................................................96 Celebrating gay pride in Germany ...............................................

.............................................................................................................................................................................159 If you have two days in Berlin ........................................................................157 Walking tours.133 The best cafes .................................................................................................................................171 Fast Facts: Berlin ...........163 Checking out the dance clubs and bars.........158 Following an Itinerary..............................................180 Staying in Hamburg ......................187 ............................................................................................139 Saving money with a museum pass.............................................158 If you have one day in Berlin....................................................................................157 Bus tours...........179 Getting around Hamburg .....................178 Finding information ...........................................159 Shopping for Local Treasures....................................................................................175 Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World ...163 Getting tickets ...162 Discovering Nightlife in Berlin...........................168 Getting there...............179 Orienting yourself ......................137 xv Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin .........163 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music.......................................179 Taking a bus tour ........................... and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North.................. Bremen.....................................158 Boat tours .172 Chapter 13: Hamburg..................169 Finding tourist information ..................170 Discovering the top attractions .......................................132 The top restaurants......................................182 Dining in Hamburg .....................................170 Dining at Sanssouci.....Table of Contents Dining Out .....141 Finding more cool things to see and do......................................................................................................159 Shopping in western Berlin .................................................................................................................................................................139 Sightseeing in Berlin ....................140 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .............160 Shopping in eastern Berlin .....................................165 Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci ................................159 If you have three days in Berlin ...........................................................................153 Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour.........................................162 Finding out what’s happening ......................................175 Getting there.................................................................184 Exploring Hamburg...................................................

..201 Dining in Lübeck .......208 Finding information ..224 Finding information and taking a tour .........................................................................................232 Discovering nightlife in Leipzig.......207 Getting there........................194 Finding information and taking a tour .....................................229 Shopping in Leipzig ..................................................................... Leipzig...203 Chapter 14: Dresden..................................................................194 Getting to Bremen.................................233 Getting there..........................................222 Leipzig: City of Heroes...........................................................................198 Getting there.....................................................221 Discovering nightlife in Dresden.......................................236 Exploring Weimar........194 Dining in Bremen.....240 ............................................................................................................................233 Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment.......191 A Side Trip: Bremen .......................................234 Finding information and taking a tour ..234 Dining in Weimar.........212 Dining in Dresden.............................................................................201 Staying in Lübeck........................................... and Weimar: Jewels of the East....207 Dresden: Florence on the Elbe ...........................................226 Getting around Leipzig .......................................................................................................210 Seeing Dresden by guided tour .............................................................................................................................................................210 Getting around Dresden...................................................217 Shopping in Dresden ...............214 Exploring Dresden ............................. 3rd Edition Shopping in Hamburg..........................................................................................201 Getting around Lübeck........200 Finding information and taking a walking tour ...............210 Orienting yourself ........202 Walking through Lübeck ..............................................xvi Germany For Dummies........................................................................228 Exploring Leipzig .............................................................................................................................................................237 Exploring the Thuringian Forest .........................................................................................191 Living it up after dark in Hamburg..............196 Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own ...................200 Orienting yourself ......................226 Dining in Leipzig....226 Staying in Leipzig .....234 Staying in Weimar ....212 Staying in Dresden .........................................194 Exploring Bremen .......................223 Getting there........................................................................

...............281 Fast Facts: Munich ...................................................252 The top hotels ...246 By plane ...............290 Getting there..........266 Sightseeing in Munich ..........281 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music...............................................................241 Discovering nightlife in Weimar ...................................................................277 Seeing Munich by Guided Tour .....................282 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria ............................................................292 ..........................................................247 Getting Around Munich ........................267 Finding more cool things to see and do.................................................................................252 Staying in Style .......................................................................................................246 By train.........280 Discovering Nightlife in Munich............................................................................................................286 Finding information .....................252 Runner-up hotels ....285 Würzburg: Franconian Fortress...................................267 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .....................................259 The top restaurants.......................284 The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria .........................................................................260 The best beer gardens ..278 Shopping for Local Treasures..........................................288 Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg ...........................241 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany.......................................245 Getting There..........................281 Checking out bars and clubs .................247 Finding Information After You Arrive ......................................................................286 Staying in Würzburg ...................246 By car .........................................................................................................................................................250 Catching a cab..........................................................................................................................247 Orienting Yourself in Munich..................291 Finding information .........250 Using public transportation ............................................Table of Contents xvii Shopping in Weimar..........................................285 Getting there......................................................................258 Dining Out ..................................................................243 Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit...............................................................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories ..............................286 Exploring Würzburg............................................286 Dining in Würzburg............

.......................302 Dining in Füssen ...................292 Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber.........................................318 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest)......................................................306 Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen .......................................................................312 Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau ..............328 ........................299 Exploring Neuschwanstein .....................305 Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen..............302 Staying in Füssen ........................294 Getting there................308 Discovering the local nightlife ..........299 Finding information and buying tickets ..............................................................................................................................296 Staying in Augsburg................299 Getting there.................304 Exploring Füssen............................305 Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen ...........320 Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town .......293 Shopping in Rothenburg .................309 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights............................................................322 Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books............................................................294 Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg.................302 Finding information ..........................308 A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles.....................................299 Exploring Hohenschwangau...............................................296 Exploring Augsburg ...........................................................................................................................................................xviii Germany For Dummies..................................294 Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance.......305 Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen........302 Getting there................................295 Finding information and taking a tour .........................304 Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze.............................................297 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air .........306 Ascending the Zugspitze.........................................302 Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road ...................................311 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) .........292 Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber .....305 Getting there......................................296 Dining in Augsburg ....311 Lindau: Sunny island charmer ...................................... 3rd Edition Staying in Rothenburg..................................................................................300 Dining near the castles.........................................................................................305 Finding information ....................................................

.......347 Living it up after dark in Heidelberg.......348 Getting to Stuttgart...........................................360 Shopping in Nuremberg ......................................................375 Shopping in Cologne..342 Exploring Heidelberg............355 Finding information and taking a tour ....................365 Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine ..................................................................338 Finding information .......................350 Dining in Stuttgart.................................340 Getting around Heidelberg ........................................................................................................................368 Staying in Cologne ....................................................................................358 Exploring Nuremberg ............357 Dining in Nuremberg ..........................................379 Discovering nightlife in Cologne .....347 A Side Trip to Stuttgart....................... Stuttgart...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................338 Taking a guided tour..................................372 Exploring Cologne................................................................338 Orienting yourself .....354 Getting there...................................................366 Finding information ..............................354 Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth..........................363 Living it up after dark in Nuremberg .................350 Stuttgart performing arts........................................Table of Contents xix Chapter 18: Heidelberg..........................................................................................................363 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine .......340 Dining in Heidelberg . and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers.....................................350 Exploring Stuttgart ...................366 Getting there..368 Getting oriented ...................350 Finding information and taking a tour ...............................368 Getting around ..337 Heidelberg: Romance on the River ...............................................356 Staying in Nuremberg .............356 Orienting yourself ...................................................................................................................370 Dining in Cologne..............................................................................344 Shopping in Heidelberg...........353 Shopping in Stuttgart ....................................................340 Staying in Heidelberg.................................................................337 Getting there............................................................................................356 Getting around Nuremberg..............379 ....................................................

...405 Raising the curtain on the performing arts .............................................411 Basic Words and Phrases.....................................................382 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros.....................412 Entertainment and Attractions ........403 Department stores..........................405 Discovering Nightlife in Frankfurt.......................389 Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt...............................................403 Porcelain ...413 Time ......................................................................................................................................................................413 Seasons and Elements .....................xx Germany For Dummies...........................................................................................................................................................394 Sightseeing in Frankfurt ..............................390 Taking a taxi..........409 Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons................................................................................406 Checking out bars and clubs ............................406 Fast Facts: Frankfurt .....................................413 Transportation .............................392 Dining Out ............................397 Walking through the city...............390 Using public transportation ................................................................................412 Directions.......................................................................................................................................397 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .....405 Having fun at a cabaret ........412 Colors .................................................................389 Getting Around Frankfurt..................................................412 Numbers..403 Shopping for Local Treasures......................388 By plane ..............................398 Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour ...............................................................389 Finding Information After You Arrive ........392 Staying in Style .......................................................................................................382 Stopping in Cochem .................................................... Beautiful Scenery ....................................................................................................385 Getting There.....407 Part V: The Part of Tens ..............................................389 By car ................................................413 Warning Signs ............... 3rd Edition The Mosel Valley: Great Wines..........388 By train................................411 Accommodations ...................................................................412 Days of the Week ..............................................................................................................................................................................................................414 ...............................................381 Touring the valley by boat or car .................................

.............................429 Surfing the Net.................................................................................................................430 Index ................................421 Spätlese ............................................................................. Berlin .....................................422 Beerenauslese..................................... Rothenburg .......................................415 Der Kleine Prinz..................................................................................................................................................................433 ...................420 Qualitätswein.......................422 Trockenbeerenauslese ................417 Kempinski Hotel Bristol.......427 Major car-rental agencies operating in Germany...........................................................................415 Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa......................... Baden-Baden.......................................428 Where to Get More Information ........421 Auslese ..................................420 Tafelwein .....................................................................................421 Kabinett ..............418 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München........................418 Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz.........429 Contacting regional tourist boards ...........................................................................419 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ....420 Deutscher Tafelwein .................................416 Excelsior Hotel Ernst...............................421 Prädikatswein ........................................................................................................................417 Hotel Eisenhut.........................416 Hotel Adlon Kempinski..................417 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ..........................422 Eiswein ....................................................................................... Heidelberg ...... Cologne......................................................................427 Major airlines serving Germany................................. Nuremberg ... Berlin .... Dresden ...................423 Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites ............Table of Contents xxi Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels .....423 Fast Facts ...................428 Major hotel chains in Germany...........422 Appendix: Quick Concierge ...................418 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe................................................................................................420 Deutscher Landwein ...........

3rd Edition .xxii Germany For Dummies.

So what cities. Drive or take the train a couple of hours east and you’re in the Bavarian Alps. French cuisine is a major part of the dining scene. And how about other historic sites? Do you want to visit Weimar. you find a flat maritime landscape. The sunny southwest is where you find the Bodensee. too. where Goethe lived. or specific attractions do you want to see? Berlin. the emphasis is on fresh seafood. where the peaks are tipped with snow until May. such as the Bavarian Alps or the Rhine Valley? Did you know that one of the most beautiful scenic drives in Europe is along Germany’s aptly named Romantic Road? What castles and cathedrals would you like to visit? The fairy-tale castles built by King Ludwig of Bavaria are the most famous and popular attractions in Germany. the exciting capital of a reunified republic? Elegant. France bounds Germany to the southwest. with Luxembourg. and the Netherlands to the west and the Czech Republic and Poland to the east. The sheer size of Cologne Cathedral. and the forested hills of the scenic Schwarzwald (Black Forest). the largest church north of the Alps. fun-loving Munich.Introduction S o you’re going to Germany. Germany isn’t a huge country — on a superfast train you can buzz from Berlin in the north to Munich in the south in about seven hours — but exciting cities and scenic sightseeing possibilities pack the terrain. the city where most Germans would live if they could? The great port city of Hamburg? The romantic university town of Heidelberg? Are there specific landscapes you want to see. Every city or region has its own version of sausage and its favorite local wines and beers. near Germany’s coastline. Dramatic regional differences exist in the German landscape. regions. Wunderbar! But what parts of Deutschland (Germany) do you want to visit? Because of this country’s many offerings. Regional differences also extend to food and architecture. Situated in the very heart of Europe. will dazzle your senses. In the southwest. every crag in the Rhine Valley seems to have its own romantic legend — or carefully tended vineyard. or Leipzig. Germany stretches from the Alps in the south to Denmark and the Baltic and North seas in the north. In the far north. Belgium. where Bach conducted? Do you want to stroll down Frankfurt’s . the location of the country’s great ports. answering that question isn’t always easy. Discovering the special regional differences within Germany will help to deepen your understanding and experiences of the country. one of the largest lakes in Europe. In the west. which shares a border with France. In the north. The sober brick architecture that predominates in the far north gives way to exuberant baroque churches and palaces in the south.

you can flip to the specific part you need or hone in on one specific chapter. start at the first page and read all the way through to the end. a must-see attraction. Dummies Post-it® Flags As you’re reading this book. and wallet. About This Book This is a selective guidebook to Germany. or a musttry walking tour. has an embarrassment of riches. editors. or the boring. I help you choose from among its many highlights to create the best trip for you. more exhaustive guidebooks routinely include. Together. you and Germany For Dummies can plan a wunderschöne Reise (wonderful journey). Keep a close eye on your camera. The author. Therefore.2 Germany For Dummies. purse. Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time — and this is especially true of prices. and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. as you can see. From an enormous list of possibilities. I suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. this guidebook is for you. is one of the great art cities of Europe. But. however. after all. Use Germany For Dummies as a reference guide. In this book. You can. if you’ve already been to Germany and know the basics of international travel. If you’re new to this part of the world. of course. Your safety is important to us. I exclude places that other. Germany. Germany has so much that is really worth seeing that you don’t need to waste your time with the second-rate. 3rd Edition Zeil. you’ll find information that you’ll want to reference as you plan or enjoy your trip — whether it be a new hotel. the busiest shopping street in Germany? Are you interested in seeing eastern Germany now that the border is open between east and west? The eastern city of Dresden. I chose only what I consider to be the best and most essential places for visitors. I bypass places that are difficult to reach or of interest only to a scholar or specialist. so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Mark these pages with the handy Post-it® Flags that are included in this book to help make your trip planning easier! . the overrated. all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. In this guide.

the currency that replaced the Deutsche Mark in 2002. In addition to giving you exact prices. and dessert). including: ߜ You may be an experienced traveler who hasn’t had much time to explore Germany and wants expert advice when you finally do get a chance to enjoy that particular locale. Check out the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ Hotel $125 and less $126 to $175 $176 to $225 $226 and more Restaurant $20 and less $21 to $30 $31 to $40 $41 and more Prices in this guide for hotels. I first give the name of a sight in German. restaurants. I’m happy to report that the user-friendly Germany For Dummies is not like that. attractions. The exchange rate used throughout is 1€ = $1. . I employ a system of dollar signs ($) to show a range of costs for one night in a hotel (double room.25. The use of symbols and abbreviations is kept to a minimum.Introduction 3 Conventions Used in This Book I recently tried to extract some information from a guidebook and felt that I needed training in hieroglyphics to interpret all the different symbols. entree. Foolish Assumptions I make some assumptions about you. and then converted into dollars. and services are given in euros (€). I include abbreviations for commonly accepted credit cards. followed by an English translation. Take a look at the following list for an explanation of each: AE: American Express DC: Diners Club DISC: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa I also include some general pricing information to help you decide where to unpack your bags or dine on the local cuisine. lieber Leser (dear reader). If the word is one that you may be using. year-round) or a meal at a restaurant (appetizer. I also provide a phonetic pronunciation.

I also deal with pretrip loose ends. advice. they provide information. or the Romantic Road — you can turn right to that part. Instead. gay and lesbian travelers. and Jewish travelers. Part I: Introducing Germany This first part introduces Germany and gives you some excellent reasons for going there. so if you want to zero in on a specific city or area — Munich. I point out the best hotels and restaurants and the top attractions to the . Along with providing a basic orientation. restaurant. I talk about handling money and give you some sound advice on planning a realistic budget. then Germany For Dummies gives you the information you’re looking for! How This Book Is Organized The book is broken down into five parts. Germany’s capital and most exciting city. and suggestions that can help you map out a wonderful holiday. rental car) to use to get around the country and explains what kind of accommodations you can expect for your money. I help you to understand and deepen your knowledge of the culture. say. ߜ You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available about Germany or that lists every hotel. from passports to buying medical insurance. This part helps you to decide what form of transportation (train. The individual chapters help you decide when to visit and what to see. or attraction. you’re looking for a book that focuses on the places that will give you the best or most unique experience in Germany. and explain the kinds of guided tours that are available. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany All you need to know about Berlin. and present you with some possible itineraries. lay out your options for airlines and how to get the best airfares and book money-saving package tours. If you fit any of these criteria. tell you about German food. seniors. The next two parts of the book are devoted to the major sights and cities within northern and eastern Germany and western and southern Germany. The first two parts deal with trip planning and organization. travelers with disabilities. This overview gives you the big picture. wine. All of the parts can be read independently. provide a calendar of events. I provide special tips for Germany-bound travelers who may have special needs or interests: families. is contained in this part.4 Germany For Dummies. 3rd Edition ߜ You may be an inexperienced traveler (but you’re definitely not a Dummkopf) who is looking for guidance when determining whether to take a trip to Germany and how to plan for it. and beer. Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany This part helps take some of the wrinkles out of the trip-planning stage.

The next chapter goes beyond Munich but stays in Bavaria. Stuttgart. and ten things to know about German wine. You find plenty to see and enjoy in “Mainhattan. a bustling city that offers an array of historic sights. King Ludwig of Bavaria’s fairytale castle in the Bavarian Alps. one of Germany’s most attractive cities. My “tens” include ten lessons on the German language. . how to get around. I also introduce you to the Bavarian towns of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. I provide information on how to get there. Sidetrip options from Cologne include boat rides down the mighty Rhine. Germany’s “secret capital” and most popular big city. gets a big chapter of its own.” as Frankfurt is known.Introduction 5 east and west and all around this remarkable city. and sights I want you to know about. and Nuremberg. In this part. topics. with its world-famous cathedral and array of first-class museums. from the mighty harbor to the lurid Reeperbahn (where uncoverage may better describe the sights). to the lively Rhine-side city of Cologne. including the palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam. a picturesque city of Gothic church spires and ancient brick buildings. plus a selection of great hotels and special restaurants. with its castles and vineyards. Part V: The Part of Tens The Part of Tens enables me to focus a little more attention on extraspecial places. Germany’s largest port city. gets a chapter of its own. Staying south but moving west. with an additional side trip to Linderhof. Difficult to visit during the Communist years. with the oldest university in Germany and the brooding ruins of a mighty castle. another castle-fantasy of King Ludwig. ten great hotels. Then I tell you about side-trip options from Hamburg: Lübeck. is also where you find Hamburg. the region’s cultural capital. Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Munich. one of Germany’s principal winegrowing areas. and down the equally picturesque Mosel River. Leipzig. I also include an easy trip to Nymphenburg Palace and the moving memorial at Dachau. I cover three important cities in southwestern Germany: Heidelberg. and what to see. and Bremen. a scenic driving tour that begins in Würzburg and ends at Neuschwanstein. and Weimar. I hit the Hamburg highlights. I also visit the great eastern German cities of Dresden. Frankfurt. I also include a description of the memorial at Buchenwald concentration camp near Weimar and an overview of touring options in the Thuringian Forest. from designer skyscrapers and great museums to distinctive applewine taverns. Here I describe the principal cities and attractions found along the Romantic Road. with the busiest international airport in Germany. bordering on the North Sea and the Baltic. From the southwest I head farther north. Northern Germany.” I tell you how to take a boat trip from Dresden into a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland. these remarkable showcases of art and culture are now “open for business.

restaurants. so you won’t find too many of these icons. I hope you’ll think of me as your guide or companion on this journey to Germany. I want you to be aware of something such as a scam that can cost you money. which is sure to be wunderbar. Traveling with children? Keep your eyes peeled for this icon. you also find a list of toll-free telephone numbers and Web sites for airlines. or a hazardous situation. All this is followed by a few helpful worksheets to help make your trip planning easier. or attractions that welcome children or that kids actually enjoy. attractions. The Best of the Best icon highlights the best the destination has to offer in all categories — hotels. and nightlife.6 Germany For Dummies. you find six different icons. of course! How you want to use this guide is up to you. personalities. but I love to save money. Bargain Alert is my favorite icon. 3rd Edition Easily found on the yellow pages at the back of this book is a Quick Concierge Appendix with an A-to-Z list of fast facts. Icons Used in This Book In the margins. too. Or you can start anywhere in between and extract information as you want or need it. . car-rental agencies. You see this icon every time I tell you about something that can save you cash. If you do see one. as well as resources for locating additional information on specific cities or areas. little pictures that point out helpful trip-planning details or items that are just for fun. Where to Go from Here To Germany. and places of special interest. A Tip icon alerts you to something that you may not otherwise consider or even know about. activities. The Tip icon highlights useful bits of information that can save you time or enhance your travel experience. You can start at the beginning and read the book straight through to the end. and I suspect it may be yours. and hotel chains serving Germany. I’m not cheap. restaurants. like how the telephone system works and what numbers to call in an emergency. This icon points out tidbits about German culture. I’m not an alarmist. shopping. In this appendix. which points out hotels.

Part I Introducing Germany .

here to begin? This part lays the groundwork for your trip to Germany.W In this part . an introduction to its architecture and cuisine. and a list of recommended books and movies. I tell you more about the places included in the book and discuss scheduling your trip so you can decide where and when to go. In Chapter 3. . . In Chapter 4. I present four possible itineraries for visitors who want to sample a wide range of sights. the most scenic landscapes. Chapter 1 introduces you to the best Germany has to offer — the most exciting cities. . Chapter 2 helps you to understand the country and its culture by giving an overview of its history. and the most interesting attractions.

will find that the club/bar/disco scene in Germany is hot. I discuss each of these places . and ballet G ermany holds a special fascination for travelers. In the categories that I outline. food. and conversation are afternoon staples. This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the “Best of the Best” — that Germany has to offer. Leipzig. others come to enjoy a cosmopolitan cafe culture where coffee. Or perhaps you have an image of Germany in your mind — a castle on a hilltop. a palace in a landscaped garden. cake. And don’t forget the retail: Great shopping opportunities abound year-round in Berlin. a symphony orchestra. a tradition that dates back hundreds of years. not only in large cities like Berlin and Munich but also in smaller university towns like Cologne. and gift stalls of Christmas markets. and an opera house. Munich. Munich. opera.Chapter 1 Discovering the Best of Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Experiencing the greatest cities ᮣ Exploring romantic landscapes ᮣ Discovering legendary castles and palaces ᮣ Visiting smaller towns and cities ᮣ Enjoying world-class classical music. the main squares in Germany’s smaller cities glitter and glow with the lights. or Berlin. like millions of others. and Cologne. you’ll find some of the things that make traveling in Germany such a fascinating experience. landscapes. During the Christmas season. at the airports in Frankfurt. have German ancestors. by the thousands. Then there’s the culture: Every midsize-to-large German city has at least one art museum. Hamburg. making a visit to Germany a feast for those who enjoy world-class art and music. This land of contrasting cities. and moods appeals to visitors for many different reasons. and Heidelberg. Some visitors come for the chance to drink fullbodied German beer. You’ll find as many different reasons to visit Germany as there are tourists who arrive daily. Clubbers. too. Perhaps you. and you want to explore their home turf. or a giant beer hall with an oom-pah-pah band — and you want to check it out for yourself.

. Discovering the Best Big German Cities Germany’s top cities offer a wealth of diversions. is one of the most attractive and intriguing cities in western Germany. and Rhine-side setting. bustling pedestrian-only quarters. You’ll also find elegant boulevards. you’ll feel it. And thanks to Germany’s excellent public-transportation systems. with its bevy of designer skyscrapers. The capital of Bavaria is sensuous. has the liveliness and lustiness of a big port and the sophistication of a wealthy European metropolis. ߜ Dresden (Chapter 14) reigns as the treasure house of eastern Germany. you can find them in their indicated chapters. Germany’s most amazing architectural reconstruction effort. ߜ With its endlessly dramatic history and cache of cultural and artistic riches. You’ll find world-class museums. the Zeil. the Kurfürstendamm and Unter den Linden. the riches of the Green Vault. streetcar. and when you’re walking down Berlin’s two most famous avenues. music. too. with countless cultural diversions and a kind of urban magic that snares the hearts of millions of visitors each year. ߜ Frankfurt (Chapter 20). and fun-loving. cuisine of all kinds. riverside promenades. including a fine lineup of museums and great shopping on Germany’s busiest shopping street. yields plenty of pleasant surprises. and its vibrant contemporaryarts scene gives it a hefty dose of sophistication. But since 1989. The pulse of Berlin is felt throughout Europe. The old capital of Saxony is where you find the worldfamous Zwinger palace/museum complex. fascinating architecture. with its soaring cathedral. first-rate museums. Berlin (Chapters 11 and 12) always has a major-league buzz. marked with — what else? — a “Best of the Best” icon. ߜ Hamburg (Chapter 13). as simple or as sophisticated as you want. The “Queen of the North” presides over a beautiful setting on the Alster Lake but is notorious for her erotically charged entertainment district called the Reeperbahn. and plenty of picturesque corners just waiting to be discovered. and the reconstructed Frauenkirche. Germany’s largest city and new capital has become an international superstar. great shopping. ߜ Cologne (Chapter 19). and plenty of nightlife. sophisticated. Germany’s third-largest city after Berlin and Munich. you can easily reach it all by subway. ߜ Munich (Chapter 15) is a southern German city where the urban pleasures are as soft and sweet as Schlagsahne (whipped cream) on a rich slab of cake or as exuberant as an oom-pah-pah band in a giant beer hall during Oktoberfest. enormous parks and green spaces.10 Part I: Introducing Germany and experiences in detail later in this book. when the wall separating East Germany and West Germany came down. or bus. Cologne’s carnival is the biggest and brashest in the country.

sheltered slopes. ߜ From Dresden you can easily explore a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland (Chapter 14). ruled over by an assortment of kings. ߜ Sophisticated health spas and recreational activities abound in the forest-clad mountains of the Black Forest (Chapter 17). ߜ Cruises down the mighty River Rhine (Chapter 19) take you past castle-crowned crags and legendary sights. and vast estates. the Rhine Valley (Chapter 19). From the majesty of the Bavarian Alps in the south to the sandy beaches of the Baltic Sea in the north. ߜ The Mosel Valley (Chapter 19). and riverside towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. found along a lovely 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine. with semitropical gardens and an almost Italian languor. west of Mainz and Wiesbaden. ߜ With its fruit trees and vineyards growing on sunny. is like a northern extension of Italy. Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces At one time. The country’s highest mountain. the Zugspitze. hiking trails. rocky cliffs along the Elbe in the east. princes. medieval castles.000 years. and scenic lookouts. Germany is loaded with a fascinating collection of castles and palaces. is like a bit of the Mediterranean. where you find lakes. and from the winegrowing Rhine Valley in the west to the high. Germany offers a wealth of sightseeing possibilities. Roman ruins. where rocky cliffs rise dramatically above the Elbe River. offering a remarkable medley of small medieval towns set within a gorgeous Bavarian landscape of river valley and mountain meadow. an enormous lake near Germany’s sunny southwestern border. has been a wine-producing region for upwards of 2. from Koblenz south to Alsace. towers above the alpine resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Chapter 16). and car. ߜ Perhaps the most dramatic of all German landscapes is the Bavarian Alps. ߜ The Bodensee (Chapter 17). dukes. Germany was a conglomeration of regional kingdoms. and all of them open to the public. boat. duchies. many of them full of art treasures. between Trier and Koblenz. is a scenic winegrowing region encompassing thousands of acres of vineyards. and views of them are accessible by train. As a result.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 11 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes Landscapes of fabled beauty and scenic splendor are found throughout Germany. ߜ The Rheingau wine district (Chapter 19). . and prince-bishops. ߜ The Romantic Road (Chapter 16) is the most romantic byway of all. such as Lorelei rock. both great and small.

Frederick the Great’s 18th-century rococo palace in Potsdam. ߜ Sanssouci (Chapter 12). In these historic hamlets. indeed. ߜ For many visitors. the Marienburg crowns the vineyard-covered slopes above Würzburg and today houses the Mainfränkische Museum (Chapter 16). because it suffered almost no damage during World War II (WWII). ߜ Perched on its crag high above Heidelberg. Heidelberg Castle (Chapter 18) suffered from war and fire. Ruined castles dot the landscape of the Rhine (Chapter 19) and enhance its romantic appeal. Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities Germany is remarkable for its attractive smaller towns and cities. nothing can compare to the fairy-tale castles built in the 19th century by Ludwig II of Bavaria. many of them located less than an hour’s train ride from a major metropolis. ߜ Nymphenburg Palace on the outskirts of Munich is another kingsize showplace and so is the gigantic Residenz. is remarkable. You do. but it remains an impressive sight even in its semiruined state. Brimming with the flavors of the past. ߜ Carefully reconstructed after WWII. right in the heart of the city (see Chapter 15 for both). these stately homes reveal aspects of German life and the monarchy that lasted up until 1918. you’ll find a very different Germany. Neuschwanstein and Linderhof (see Chapter 16 for both) are preserved almost exactly as they were during Ludwig’s lifetime. the quintessential image associated with Germany is a castle on a hilltop. the Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) is famed for its superb ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo. find castles scattered throughout the country. ߜ For sheer. lovely Lübeck (Chapter 13) epitomizes the maritime culture and redbrick architecture of northern Germany. and furniture. over-the-top opulence. ߜ Used by the powerful prince-bishops until 1806. scattered like gemstones around the country. featuring brilliant Renaissance-era woodcarvings by Tilman Riemenschneider. you can easily savor them as daytrips. in part. the amazing Zwinger Palace in Dresden (Chapter 14) is now an unparalleled showcase for old master paintings and porcelain treasures. You can easily visit Sanssouci and its beautiful grounds on a daytrip from Berlin. porcelains.12 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to several museums and staterooms that can be visited on guided tours. With their precious paintings. ߜ A palace that doubled as a fortress. ߜ An easy daytrip from Hamburg. So many architectural gems are located here that the entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a place judged .

a marvelous little island-city in the Bodensee (Lake Constance). Naziera rallies. and enormous castle. and the quality of musical performance is extraordinarily high. Enjoying the Best in Classical Music. and provides a glimpse into 18th-century German life and culture. ߜ Heidelberg (Chapter 18). flower-filled charm that’s perfect for lazing away a day or two. including grand opera. unspoiled hamlet was home to Goethe and Schiller. and Ballet Lovers of classical music. are reasonably priced. . and the second-largest beer festival after Munich. Füssen (Chapter 16) invites you to stroll along its cobblestone streets past stone houses and a rushing mountain river. ߜ A stop on the Romantic Road or an easy daytrip from Munich. You can walk along the old city walls of this perfectly preserved gem and stroll down streets that haven’t changed much in hundreds of years. ߜ One of the most sophisticated spa towns in Europe. intriguing architecture. is the arts and culture capital of southwestern Germany. with major art collections. The garden-island of Mainau is a short ferry ride away. historic streets. enchants visitors with its romantic setting.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 13 to be of exceptional cultural value. ߜ Stuttgart (Chapter 18). a major highlight along the Romantic Road. and ballet will find that Germany is a gold mine. ߜ Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Chapter 16). ߜ Located in the Bavarian Alps near Neuschwanstein Castle. Remnants and reminders from both eras are plentiful in Nuremberg. Opera. opera. This small. Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) offers an extraordinary range of spa treatments during the day and elegant gaming rooms at night. a 40-minute train ride from Heidelberg. an old university town on the Neckar River. one of the most attractive midsize German cities. according to the United Nations agency that promotes education and the arts. in eastern Germany. including Renaissance-era palaces and the oldest almshouse in Germany. was a cradle of the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Tickets for musical events. has a sunny. is a walled medieval city loaded with picturesque charm. ߜ Lindau (Chapter 17). ߜ Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is an important center of the German Renaissance that later became an infamous locale for huge. ߜ Weimar (Chapter 14). Augsburg (Chapter 16) is full of historic panache and architectural surprises. among others.

conducted by Sir Simon Rattle. . the brilliant Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) shares the National Theater stage with its ballet company. Cologne (Chapter 19) has an amazing array of musical offerings. ߜ A visit to Dresden (Chapter 14) can be made even more memorable by an evening at the Semperoper (Semper Opera House). and so does the Staatsoper (State Opera). one of the world’s great opera houses. one of the great cultural centers of Germany. ߜ Opera Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt gives a big musical boost to Frankfurt (Chapter 20). Cranko is gone. or hearing a concert by the Dresden Philharmonic. while the magnificent Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra) performs in the Philharmonic Hall. ߜ The city of Leipzig (Chapter 14) is home to the world-renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra and the acclaimed Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera). Hamburg (Chapter 13) plays host to the Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). who lived and worked in the city for more than 40 years — with the yearly Bachfest. and two fine orchestras — the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker (Cologne Philharmonic) and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra) — perform in the Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. including the famed Berlin Philharmonic. but the company still performs at the State Theater. ߜ For a city of its size. Leipzig celebrates its most famous citizen — the composer Johann Sebastian Bach. as does the Frankfurt Philharmonic.14 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to three major symphony orchestras. Major artists appear at the Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). ߜ Up north. and three opera houses that share their stages with resident ballet companies. ߜ The Stuttgart Ballet in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) hit international stardom in the 1970s when John Cranko took over the company. and three highly-regarded orchestras. the Hamburg Ballet. the Rhineland’s leading opera house. ߜ In Munich (Chapter 15).

with garrisons established at Cologne (Chapter 19). By the first century A.D. and wine ᮣ Finding books and movies about Germany T his chapter helps you find out more about Germany and deepens your experience of the country. Koblenz. Mainz. The following list highlights the main trends in German history: ߜ Early history: Prehistoric humans hunted in the Rhine and Neckar valleys of present-day Germany. the Roman sphere of influence extended well into the borders of present-day Germany. and recommend some excellent books and movies about Germany. quick sense of the major epochs. How a civilized European nation slipped into the state of barbaric inhumanity that existed during Nazism’s rise and WWII is a question that continues to occupy historians and survivors and haunt the Germans themselves. I highlight the main architectural trends. I distill the essence of Germany’s complicated and tumultuous past so you can get a clear. . The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History Germany’s long and tumultuous history remains clouded by the horrors of World War II (WWII). the empire of the Franks represented the transition from a loose conglomeration of German tribes into what eventually would become the German Empire. 400. Charlemagne (Karl der Grosse.Chapter 2 Digging Deeper into Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Perusing the main events in Germany’s history ᮣ Recognizing Germany’s architectural heritage ᮣ Discovering German food. whet your appetite with a primer on German food and drink.D.. 768–814) was responsible for the earliest large-scale attempt to unite the lands of Germany under one ruler. Following the Roman withdrawal from Germany in A. and Trier. beer.

Austrian. the Enlightenment. in 1871. and philosophers ushered in the Age of Enlightenment. and Napoleon: The 16th century was a time of social unrest and religious upheaval throughout Germany. An upswing in international commerce from the 11th to 13th centuries led to the foundation of “Free Imperial Cities” like Hamburg and Lübeck (see Chapter 13 for both). When that effort failed. and his work had far-reaching implications. Military conflict on the eastern front resulted in the defeat of Russia. composers. Prussia gained status as a great European power. ߜ The Reformation. the country’s military and political rulers were determined to return to a system of absolute monarchy. In 1813.16 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ The Middle Ages: The power struggles and invasions of the Middle Ages continually disrupted the unity hammered out by Charlemagne. Prussian. it resulted in severe food shortages throughout the country and intensified political unrest. Napoleon occupied several German cities and abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. ߜ Revolution and the Reich: Following Napoleon’s defeat. Martin Luther (1483–1546) battled against the excesses of the Catholic Church. After defeating the Austrian and Prussian armies. the Catholic Church launched a Counter-Reformation that culminated in the bloody Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). and until the demise of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. the Great War (1914–1918) represented a German attempt to dominate Europe. and Russian armies fought the French emperor in Leipzig. 1740–1786). Bismarck succeeded in winning over southern German states and. Although the war wasn’t fought on German soil. became first chancellor of the German Empire (Reich). ߜ World War I and Weimar: For many observers. Prussian statesman Otto von Bismarck (1815–1898) advocated consolidation of the German people under Prussian leadership. which was followed by the decisive Battle of Waterloo. Because of the weakness of central authority. As Protestant Reformation spread. In its attempt to establish a democratic and republican government. the works of German artists. while fighting on the western front ultimately led to German defeat and the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II. the so-called Weimar government (1919–1934) represented a break in dominant traditions of German history. Residual issues from war and hostility from conservative groups conflicted with reformist and radical impulses of the left and cultural avant-garde. . the Austrian Hapsburg monarchy reimposed its sovereignty over Prussia and other parts of Germany. Under Frederick the Great (Friedrich der Grosse. writers. During this period. During the “Golden Twenties. The question of independence and national unity finally came to a head in the 1848 revolution. various German tribal duchies sought to build their own autonomy. After triumphs in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871).” Berlin — capital of the republic — blossomed into Germany’s economic and cultural center. pitting the Protestant north against the Catholic south and affecting the whole of Europe. Germany remained a collection of small principalities and free cities.

economic. and the Soviet-ruled German Democratic Republic (GDR) in the eastern half had its capital in East Berlin. assistance in the form of the Marshall Plan. the Berlin Wall was constructed. near the eastern German town of Weimar. sealing off East Berlin from West Berlin. and politicians. but old authoritarian. Germany ceased to exist as an independent state. and Dachau (Chapter 15). Berlin (Chapter 12) is particularly rich in memorials commemorating the hundreds of thousands of Jews. the most comprehensive of its kind. thousands of German Jews. The most wrenching memorials of that gruesome chapter of German history are the concentration camps Buchenwald (Chapter 14). which continued until 1949. As the brutal anti-Semitic political agenda of Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) became apparent. ߜ Germany reunited: The opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989 marked for East Germany the culmination of a wave of previously . In Nuremberg (Chapter 18). the site of Nazi-architect Albert Speer’s enormous Congress Hall has been reclaimed as the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Rally Grounds Documentation Center) with a brilliantly informative exhibit that chronicles the rise and fall of the National Socialists. northwest of Munich. Gypsies (Sinta. with its major cities in smoldering ruins. fled the country to escape persecution. Two Germanys developed with highly different political. The Soviet blockade of West Berlin resulted in the Anglo-American Berlin airlift. West German recovery got underway with U. scientists. gays. You can also visit the courtroom in Nuremberg where Nazi officials were tried after the war.S. including many prominent artists. At the end of the war. in German). and other groups that were murdered by the National Socialists between 1933 and 1945. nationalistic. walking tours take visitors past Nazi-era buildings and exhibits that interpret Nazi methods. In 1961. Millions of Jews and other “undesirable” minorities throughout Germany and the rest of Nazi-occupied Europe were systematically exterminated in one of the most horrifying chapters in world history. the war’s victors divided it into two states as the Cold War intensified. and imperialistic attitudes also provided a ripe environment for the National Socialist Party to take control. In Berlin. ߜ The rise of Nazism and World War II: Economic crisis in Germany was a major factor in the rise of the Nazi movement.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 17 Remembering the Nazi-era past Germany’s Nazi-era past and the enormity of crimes committed during World War II are facts that can’t be glossed over or overlooked. and social systems. The Federal Republic of Germany in the western half of the country had its capital in Bonn. Germany’s Jewish past is the subject of Berlin’s remarkable Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). In 1948. See Chapter 12 for information on walking tours that focus on Berlin’s Nazi and Jewish histories. ߜ The two Germanys: Intending at first to govern conquered Germany as one unit.

clear forms. . Kilian in Würzburg (Chapter 16). Reforms by Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev and underground. a style characterized by calm precision. built from 1045 to 1188. A simpler and more monumental kind of Gothic architecture. soaring vaults and spires. ߜ Gothic (13th–16th centuries): Cologne Cathedral (Chapter 19) is Germany’s greatest example of Gothic architecture. Munich (Chapter 15) abounds in the baroque. Stalinist government of the GDR. The baroque flourished in Catholic. The Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) and palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam (Chapter 12) are two of the best examples of baroque architecture in Germany. particularly in Cologne (Chapter 19). Here are examples from around Germany of the major architectural trends: ߜ Romanesque (10th–12th centuries): Simple. thick walls. such as the medieval towns along the Romantic Road (see Chapter 16). Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture Buildings that you can visit on a trip to Germany span some 1. Renaissance architecture was imported from Italy into southern Germany. In 1991. Many historic buildings are painstaking postwar reconstructions. In 2006. and classical decoration over windows and doors. Angela Merkel became Germany’s first female chancellor. Many interesting examples of Romanesque architecture are found in western Germany. a building style adapted from much earlier Roman models. Compared to Romanesque. but the overall devastation affected nearly the entire country. Some areas escaped damage. is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Germany. ߜ Renaissance (late 15th–17th centuries): Augsburg (Chapter 16) is one of the best cities in Germany to see Renaissance architecture.18 Part I: Introducing Germany suppressed revolutionary sentiment across central and eastern Europe. built of brick. with pointed arches. grassroots communication between citizens in East Germany led to massive demonstrations against the repressive. this style is slender and daring. and enormous windows. Bombing raids in WWII left much of the country’s rich architectural heritage in ruins.200 years of architectural history and were created in a number of different styles. orderly repeating lines. ߜ Baroque (17th–18th centuries): A decorative exuberance in curvy baroque architecture sets it apart from the more sober Renaissance style. with East and West Germany united under one government. and rounded arches signal Romanesque architecture. Berlin was made the nation’s new capital. predominates in northern Germany in cities such as Lübeck (Chapter 13). Counter-Reformation areas in the south of Germany. The Dom St.

and it was most popular in Berlin (see Chapter 12). James Stirling’s Neue Staatsgalerie in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) is a reminder of just how clunky. Bauhaus was championed by Walter Gropius (1883–1969). Seasonal specialties include Spargel (white . The school was banned by the Nazis because it didn’t promote “German-looking” architecture. with many regional variations and specialties. you’ll see modernist buildings all around you.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 19 ߜ Rococo (18th century): Notch up the elements of baroque and you have rococo. Bauhaus museums are in Weimar (Chapter 14) and Berlin (Chapter 12). This faux-medievalism is what Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein (Chapter 16) is all about. ߜ Neoclassical/Neo-Gothic (mid 18th–19th centuries): The neoclassical style was meant to be a rebuke to the excesses of baroque and rococo. and so do many houses in the Schwabing district of Munich (Chapter 15). ߜ Jugendstil (early 20th century): Jugendstil is the German name for Art Nouveau. functional style with straight lines and square windows. who founded the Bauhaus school to create functional buildings and furnishings. created for a 1927 building exhibition. where the architect Schinkel created a whole neoclassical avenue (Unter den Linden) and island of museums. If you walk down the streets or pedestrian zones in just about any major German city. The Bauhaus style predominates in the Weissenhofsiedlung area of Stuttgart (Chapter 18). It’s a simple. free of frills and unnecessary decoration. ߜ Bauhaus (1913–1933): A rigorously modern style. and unappealing most postmodern buildings are. The famous Mädlerpassage arcade in Leipzig (Chapter 14) shows Jugendstil influence. ߜ Modernism (1948 onward): A major housing shortage and rebuilding effort in bombed cities in Germany followed the devastation of WWII. exemplified by curving walls and staggering amounts of gilded and stucco decoration. One of the most famous examples of flamboyant rococo architecture in Germany is the Wieskirche (Chapter 16) in Bavaria. organic shapes. Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany German cooking tends to be hearty and filling. an early-20th-century European movement that emphasized flowing. neoclassicism gave way to the more ponderous Neo-Gothic style. As the century wore on. uninspired. ߜ Postmodernism (1980s onward): Postmodernism is a style practiced by architects who plunder the past and apply old styles to the buildings of today. asymmetrical.

To order a beer. When it comes to baked goods — bread and pastries — Germany has more variety than any country in the world. bottle). The most popular beer in Germany is Pils. A proper draft beer. in an appropriate beer glass or mug. Erdbeeren (strawberries) in spring. Export has 5 percent.20 Part I: Introducing Germany asparagus) in May and June. and Reh (venison) in the fall. so much so that the right to drink beer is written into some labor contracts. The ratio of ingredients. or standard beer) has 4 percent alcohol. Ratskellers. and wine. The beer is always served cold. especially in southern Germany. color. Bockbier. . and taste all contribute to a German beer’s unique qualities. Weizenbier (vitsen-beer). alcoholic content. Märzbier (maertz-beer). and Weizenbier. A German law adopted in 1516 dictates that German beer may contain no ingredients other than hops. Pils. brewing temperature and technique.200 varieties of biscuits and cakes. beer. Märzbier. A Bräuhaus (broy-house) serves its own brew along with local food. and Nuremberg all have their own special kinds.” is dark and strong. Malzbier. for a large. Kölsch. In the country as a whole. made from wheat. The range of beer varieties includes Altbier. followed by Export. you have many choices. is still very popular. and water. malt (barley). yeast. with a long-lasting head of white foam. or ein Kleines (ine kly-nis). or Pilsener. Vollbier (foal-beer. Forelle (trout) in the summer. decide whether you want a dunkles Bier (dark beer. and Bockbier has 6 percent. beers are light and contain more hops. Lager. or “March beer. traditional cellar restaurants beneath a city’s Rathaus (Town Hall). Export. brewed with darkly roasted malt fermented for a long period of time) or a helles Bier (light beer. and tell the waiter or tavernkeeper whether you want ein Bier vom Fass (fum fahss. Munich. aging time. Vollbier. Matjes (white herring) in June and July. you can taste about 150 different types of sausage. according to the Germans. The traditional Biergarten (beer garden). malt beer) contains hardly any alcohol. with about 300 different types of bread and 1. for a small. When you order a beer in Germany. can’t be poured in less than seven minutes to achieve the proper head. from the barrel) or in a Flasche (flah-shuh. is a Bavarian white beer. but not too cold. Dark and sweet Malzbier (maltz-beer. brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery). always serve good and fairly inexpensive traditional food. You ask for ein Grosses (ine grow-ses). Berlin. and a beer with lunch in the factory cafeteria is taken for granted. with tables set outdoors under trees or trellises. Sampling German beer Bier (pronounced beer) remains a vital part of German culture. Pils.

this novel deals with the transition of a merchant family in Lübeck from 19th-century stability to 20th-century uncertainty.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 21 Although not kind to the waistline. the German tradition of afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is alive and well. provide excellent accompaniments to any meal. about WWII and the Holocaust. Vollman: A bold. ߜ Buddenbrooks by Thomas Mann: A classic of German literature. Each city has its favorites. past and present. and in particular. Books (fiction and nonfiction) The number of books written about Germany. personalities. brilliant novel that examines the authoritarian cultures of 20th-century Germany and . and politics. I attempt to provide a broad overview of Germany from many different perspectives and historical epochs. too. for example. cultural. Lübeck (Chapter 13). mostly from grapes grown in the scenic Rhine and Mosel valleys (Chapter 19). The books I’ve selected include many great German authors. brewed right in the area. Look out for regional specialties. ߜ Conversations with Goethe by Johann Peter Eckermann: Early19th-century Germany from the viewpoint of the most renowned German figure of the Enlightenment. German wines (Chapter 23). ߜ Europe Central by William T. ߜ Bismarck by Edward Crankshaw: An objective and highly readable life of the first chancellor of the German Empire and a seminal figure in Germany’s Prussian past. is the capital of Marzipan (almond paste). Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies In the following book and movie lists. has increased dramatically during the past two decades. ߜ Before the Deluge: A Portrait of Berlin in the 1920s by Otto Friedrich: A fascinating portrait of the political. and social life of Berlin between the wars. and Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is famous for its Lebkuchen (spice cakes). that can help you gain a better understanding of German history. ߜ Berlin Journal 1989–1990 by Robert Darnton: An eyewitness account of the events that led to the opening of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of East Germany’s Communist regime. And German beers are legendary. ߜ Billiards at Half-Past Nine by Heinrich Böll: A compelling novel by one of Germany’s best-known writers about the compromises made by a rich German family during the Hitler years.

winner of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. ߜ The Tin Drum by Günter Grass: Perhaps the most famous novel about life in post-WWII Germany. statesman. Maier: A study of German attempts to come to terms with the Holocaust and the recent controversy surrounding conservative attempts to downplay the historical . ߜ The Unmasterable Past: History. ߜ Hitler: 1936–1945: Nemesis by Ian Kershaw: Several good biographies about Hitler have been written. musician. but Kershaw’s is one of the best. and German National Identity by Charles S. ߜ Frederick the Great by Nancy Mitford: Frederick. Joachim Fest. cultural. ߜ The German Lesson by Siegfried Lenz: A bestseller when it first appeared in 1971. ߜ My Life in Politics by Willy Brandt: The political memoirs of Willy Brandt (1913–1992). true stories of a handful of Jews who managed to remain in Berlin during WWII by hiding out in the homes of non-Jewish German friends. written by a Nobel Prize winner who kept his own Nazi past a secret until 2006. scholar. and chancellor of West Germany (1969–1974).22 Part I: Introducing Germany Russia and creates a mesmerizing picture of life during wartime from many different perspectives. Holocaust. and John Toland. ߜ German Family Research Made Easy by J. including works by Robert Payne. ߜ A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain: Twain’s account of his travels in Germany is as fresh today as when it first was published in 1899. ߜ Five Germanys I Have Known by Fritz Stern: The well-known historian chronicles the five distinct eras of Germany’s modern history that his Jewish family has experienced. sketched with wit and humor. this easy-to-follow guide makes the task easier. and economic life in Germany from the foundation of the German Reich through the end of the Third Reich. ߜ Germany 1866–1945 by Gordon Craig: One of the best single accounts of the turbulent political. Konrad: If you’re interested in tracing your German roots. mayor of cold-war West Berlin (1957–1966). ߜ The Germans by Gordon Craig: A highly readable and knowledgeable portrait of postwar Germany. this powerful novel explores Nazism and its aftermath in the north German provinces. and patron of the arts. ߜ The Last Jews in Berlin by Leonard Gross: Gripping. ߜ Here I Stand: A Life of Martin Luther by Roland Bainton: A fascinating and meticulously researched account of the Protestant reformer.

ߜ The Cabinet of Doctor Caligari (1921): One of the earliest horror films. from learning that the wall has come down and Germany has been reunited. ߜ The Blue Angel (1930): The film that shot Marlene Dietrich to international stardom remains stark. My recommended list includes a selection of German and Germany-themed films available on VHS or DVD. a loyal Communist.S. and provocative. Movies As with literature. this classic German silent movie used expressionist sets to create a tale of murder and madness. and heritage. WWII and the Holocaust have dominated the subject matter of recent films about Germany — so much so that German-made films about contemporary German life rarely get a showing outside of Germany unless they win a top prize at a film festival. starring Marlene Dietrich as an amoral cabaret singer and Jean Arthur as a self-righteous U. ߜ A Foreign Affair (1948): Billy Wilder’s cynically hilarious look at postwar occupied Berlin. a gay man sent to Dachau concentration camp under the Nazi regime. the one who built Neuschwanstein. ߜ Ludwig (1972): Visconti’s turgid epic about the last king of Bavaria. . ߜ Goodbye. Lenin! (2004): A wry comedy about a young man in East Berlin who tries to keep his bedridden mother. senator. ߜ Cabaret (1972): A musical based on Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories and set in Berlin at the brink of WWII. ߜ Witness to Nuremberg by Richard Sonnenfeldt: The chief American interpreter at the war-crimes trials tell his story of dealing directly with Hermann Göring. ߜ Berlin Alexanderplatz (1980): Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 15-part television adaptation of the novel by Alfred Döblin follows the life of a man released from prison between the two world wars. startling. 23 ߜ When in Germany. the powerful Nazi official who was subsequently executed for war crimes. customs. entertaining crash course in German culture. Do as the Germans Do by Hyde Flippo: A short. ߜ The Marriage of Maria Braun (1979): Hanna Schygulla stars as a woman married to a soldier in the waning days of WWII. ߜ Bent (1997): Movie adaptation of Martin Sherman’s powerful play about Max.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany uniqueness of the German genocide against Jews and other minorities.

000 Deutsche Marks to save her boyfriend from being rubbed out by a gangster.24 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Metropolis (1927): Fritz Lang directed this classic of German cinema. Lola. Run (1999): Fast-paced twists and turns as Lola races desperately through Berlin seeking 100. ߜ Wings of Desire (1988): An angel roaming the streets of Berlin and recording the angst and joy of ordinary life falls in love with a mortal. ߜ Olympiad (1936): Leni Riefenstahl’s super-Aryan take on the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin. ߜ Triumph of the Will (1934): Leni Riefenstahl filmed the gigantic 1934 Nazi conference and rally in Nuremberg as “image-control” propaganda for the Third Reich. . in which the Workers plan a revolt against the aloof Thinkers that dominate them in a future dystopia. ߜ Run.

special festivals and events. or avoid. often is wet or . W Going Where You Want to Be Germany For Dummies. too. My aim in this book is to introduce you to the best cities. and city in Deutschland. is a selective guidebook. with an emphasis on fish.Chapter 3 Deciding Where and When to Go In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring Germany’s main points of interest ᮣ Scheduling your trip ᮣ Getting a grip on the seasons: Tourism and weather ᮣ Flipping through the country’s calendar of events hat do you want to see when you visit Germany. and when do you want to go? In this chapter. and scenic regions that Germany has to offer. region. You also find a calendar of events so you can time your trip to coincide with. which is influenced by the North and Baltic seas. check out the following thumbnail sketches and find details of the best places Germany has to offer in Chapters 1 and 2. To figure out which regions to visit during your trip. the north’s sober redbrick Gothic churches and buildings lack the ornate baroque decorations found in the Catholic south. I don’t cover every state. The climate in the north. For locations. Discovering northern Germany Northern Germany is a different world from southern Germany. only the essential highlights. This chapter points out highlights of each region and gives you the lowdown on the weather so you can determine the best destinations and time of year for your visit. I help you to narrow your focus so you can start planning your trip in earnest. see “The Regions in Brief” map in this chapter. Architecturally. geared to savvy travelers who want to know more about Germany’s leading sights. The food is plainer. historic towns. special sights. 3rd Edition.

one Communist — after World War II. or at least difficult to visit. you have an opportunity to visit sections of eastern Germany that for 45 years were inaccessible. you can also explore beautiful 19th-century neighborhoods. on the other hand. has been less interested in restoring its past than looking toward the future. top performing-arts venues. and visit the Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum). and the city seems to be working overtime to shake off its GDR legacy: The Museum in der Runden Ecke is devoted to the role the Stasi. brash Berlin was the capital of the old German Reich for 70 years before it was divided into two cities — one capitalist. turn to Chapter 13. such as Altona. It has stitched itself back together to become the capital (and largest city) of a reunified Germany and now reigns as one of the most fascinating cities in the world. Hamburg is the third-largest city in Germany. Similarly. another easy daytrip from Hamburg. 18thcentury palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam — in Chapters 11 and 12. Lübeck. historic reverberations. You find comprehensive coverage of Berlin — including a daytrip to Frederick the Great’s charming. multifaceted collection of art. you see examples of its 900-yearold history everywhere you turn. In the Altstadt. and its harbor. . cafes. one of the biggest in the world. played in the lives of citizens. Lübeck. the Zeitgeschichtliches Museum (Contemporary History Museum) chronicles the history and artifacts of the GDR years. but some people believe the maritime atmosphere is part of its overall appeal. For the scoop on Hamburg. so are the breezy Alster Lakes in the center of the city. Big. you find a historic center with a day’s worth of sightseeing possibilities. under the Communist regime of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). and Bremen. an easy daytrip from Hamburg. and striking new architecture. After Berlin and Munich (in the south). In Bremen. according to the United Nations’ agency that promotes education and the arts. from the Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall) to the church spires that dominate the skyline. The Bach Museum is of interest to classical-music lovers. now a lively area with restaurants. Does the Berliner Luft (Berlin air) account for Berlin’s endless and ongoing fizz of excitement. The peaceful revolution of 1989 began there. Berlin is where all is happening in Germany right now. is a major tourist attraction. as some people claim? With world-class museums. Leipzig. Exploring eastern Germany Now that Germany is reunited. East Germany’s secret police. offers a rich collection of European art and 19th-century German paintings. and the Museum of Fine Arts. In Hamburg. has so many medieval brick buildings that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site — a place judged to be of exceptional cultural value. Dresden. opened in 2005. on the Elbe River and only two hours from Berlin by train. and bars.26 Part I: Introducing Germany misty. has treasures beyond measure in the Zwinger Palace and the Residenzschloss. which houses an outstanding.

textiles. It suffered little damage during the war and was the home of Germany’s greatest writer. Nuremberg C AN FR Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl O JUR LUXEMTrier BOURG in Bayreuth Bamberg Darmstadt Worms Mannheim eck Homburg Heidelberg N Saarbrücken Saarbr cken A CZECH REPUBLIC M Ta ub er BO NI ar HE A Karlsruhe BadenBaden Schwäbisch Schw bisch Hall Stuttgart Ulm B (SC LAC Rhi ne HW K F AR OR ZW EST AL D) Tübingen bingen Regensburg F O RE Da ST nub e rdlingen Nördlingen r Ingolstadt Isa Passau Augsburg Landshut N I FRANCE Lech Freiburg Lörrach rrach SWAB Donaueschingen Meersburg Konstanz Lindau Lake JU IAN RA nu Da be Dachau Munich Oberammergau Füssen ssen GarmischPartenkirchen Southern and Western Germany See Part IV Prien am AU Chiemsee Berchtesgaden STRIA SW S W I TZ TZE ER RLA L A ND ND Constance (Bodensee) Neuschwanstein Zugspitze The small.T. and to the playwright Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805).000 people . furniture. the poet and dramatist Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832).Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 27 The Regions in Brief 0 0 50 mi Sylt Sylt Westerland DENMARK Baltic Sea Kiel Bay Hiddensee N 50 km Flensburg North Frisian Is. pottery. The homes of these two literary giants are Weimar’s most popular tourist attractions. eastern town of Weimar is in a category of its own. The small Bauhaus Museum exhibits paintings.d. and drawings from the Bauhaus school. Cuxhaven Rügen gen Mecklenburg Stralsund Pomeranian Bay Bay Rostock Greifswald Wismar Lübeck beck West Frisian Is. the site of a Nazi-run concentration camp just outside of Weimar where at least 56. A visit to the Buchenwald Memorial. Stettin Bay Neubrandenburg Wilhelmshaven Emden Oldenburg Bremerhaven W Elb e Hamburg El be Schwerin TH HE E N ET H ERLAN DS NET HER L AND S Bremen Celle Northern and Eastern Germany See Part III Alle r Brandenburg Havel Osnabr ck Osnabrück Minden Hannover Braunschweig Hameln Goslar BERLIN Frankfurt Münster nster Rh in e Bielefeld Detmold Hildesheim Potsdam an der Oder Oder bbenau Lübbenau Cottbus Magdeburg H A R Z Wittenberg Essen Lippe Dortmund Ruhr Düsseldorf sseldorf Bad Pyrmont Dessau be El Od ese r Lüneburg neburg er POLAND Mönchengladbach nchengladbach Cologne Aachen Ems Ne We ser Spre Göttingen ttingen isse Halle Leipzig e Kassel Weimar Bad Wildungen Eisenach Erfurt Bautzen Naumburg Meissen Dresden Altenburg Freiberg Jena Görlitz rlitz TH Bonn BEL BE LG GIUM IU M Bad Nauheim Bad Homburg Bad Kissingen GE Gera Zwickau RW Chemnitz ER E ZG BI RG E Koblenz Wiesbaden Mainz Rhi ne ÜR ALD Coburg Hof La IN be BernkastelKues Frankfurt am Main Aschaffenburg Ma Würzburg rzburg AN Speyer Rothenburg o. Schleswig Mountain Kiel North Sea East Frisian Is. quiet. which began here in 1919.

the daytrip to the mountain resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen is an easy one. the capital. which is accessible by cable car. Savoring southern Germany Southern Germany is worlds apart from the north. Germany’s largest lake. Lindau. one of the traditional industries of the Black Forest region. . crammed with old masters. the Bodensee. with year-round opera. sits in a sun-drenched basin with a view of the Alps to the south. 19th-century greats. is a place that’s tailor-made for tourists. Germany’s largest and most prosperous Land (state). with an upscale chic. Chapter 15 is devoted to the many delights of Munich. You also find lovely churches with sober Gothic and exuberant baroque interiors. Ranking right up there with the offerings of Berlin are Munich’s museums. with stops at several perfectly preserved medieval towns along the way. Southern Germany also includes the Bodensee (also called Lake Constance). an island in the lake. also is where you find Oberammergau. and vineyards and fruit trees grow around its shoreline. Munich’s musical life is the envy of many cities. and major 20th-century artists. The city’s most popular museum is the Deutsches Museum. The Romantic Road and daytrips in Bavaria are covered in Chapter 16. with its famous mineral baths and glamorous casino. is cultured and elegant. This alpine region.28 Part I: Introducing Germany died. You’ll find plenty of both along the Romantic Road. Details about the Bodensee and the Black Forest are in Chapter 17. Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle in the Bavarian Alps. In the Black Forest. From there you can explore the surrounding forest or hunt for a cuckoo clock. where cowbells clang in the meadows and classic chalets nestle in picturesque valleys. Bavaria. You find complete coverage of Dresden. is the best spot to stay. the most beautiful driving tour in Germany. used by the rulers of Bavaria from the 14th century up to 1918. Bavaria is full of scenic splendor and picturesque charm. but it’s also boisterous. even raucous: Millions pour into the city during Oktoberfest to experience Munich’s renowned giant beer halls and beer gardens. Farther north is the city of Baden-Baden. Leipzig. symphony. semitropical gardens flourish on Mainau. Munich. In the center of town sits an enormous palace. and Weimar in Chapter 14. an island-city connected to the mainland by a causeway. a town that’s famous for its woodcarvers and for the Passion play performed there every ten years — a tradition dating back to the 17th century. the largest science and technology museum in the world. and the famous Schwarzwald. the Residenz. This enchanting route winds south from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein. the lively and lovely city of Freiburg is a delight. Both areas offer great natural beauty and plenty of recreational opportunities. or Black Forest. and it’s close to the Zugspitze. and concerts of all kinds. Germany’s highest peak. can be an intense and profoundly moving experience. From Munich.

an art museum housed in a striking glass cube offering a panoramic view of Stuttgart. business-oriented buzz and a skyline pierced by designer skyscrapers. Nürnberg (or Nuremberg as it’s known in English) was rebuilt in a style that evokes the medieval era when it was one of the most important cities in Germany. Heidelberg’s enormous ruined castle oversees its picturesque Altstadt (Old Town). and a delightful Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum). occupies a prime spot on the Rhine River. in part because it’s the point of entry for most visitors who fly into the country. sophisticated. Frankfurt probably is the best-known metropolis in western Germany. The Rhine and Mosel valleys in western Germany form one of Europe’s top wine-producing areas. the largest Gothic structure north of the Alps. Chief among its many outstanding museums are the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. and good-natured town offers more than enough to keep you busy for a couple of days. one of the top modern-art museums in Europe. reigns as the cultural capital of southwestern Germany. Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is the oldest in Germany. Among its many cultural offerings are several important museums. Nuremberg has as many romantic corners as Heidelberg. For more on Cologne and side trips into Germany’s wine country. and the Museum Ludwig. Frankfurt has a modern. This lively. . with major painting collections and the fabulous Neue Galerie. By contrast. Stuttgart. only 40 minutes by train from Heidelberg. You can also visit many wine towns by train. Cologne was an important Roman town during a period that is wonderfully interpreted in the Romisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). all described in Chapter 20.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 29 Wending through western Germany Western Germany is a densely populated area with an ancient history and cities with vibrant personalities all their own. Heidelberg is for many people the quintessential romantic German town. Stuttgart. Sitting on the Neckar River amid green hills. see Chapter 19. or Cologne (as it’s known in English). The banking capital of Germany and the European Union. The city’s past dark side as a center for Nazi rallies is documented in the harrowing exhibit at the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Party Rally Grounds Documentation Center) created within Albert Speer’s Nazi Congress Hall. and Nuremberg are covered in Chapter 18. Cologne also is one of the contemporary-art capitals of Germany. Its chief glory is its awe-inspiring Dom (Cathedral). Little more than a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of WWII. one of Germany’s best for art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. River cruises originating in Cologne and many other cities in the area take you through valleys of neatly clipped vineyards soaking up sunlight on steep hillsides. which comes as a wonderful surprise to many visitors. Köln. Heidelberg. Stuttgart’s is one of the largest. the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). in addition to the country’s largest museum of art and culture.

rent a car at Frankfurt airport and drive to the beginning of the scenic route in Würzburg. Keep German holidays in mind when scheduling your trip. Many museums and attractions close on the following public holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day). If you want to explore all parts of the country. August 15 (Assumption). all the major cities of western Germany — Heidelberg. Revealing the Secret of the Seasons How do you decide what time of year to travel to Germany? This section presents the pros and cons of each season. Stuttgart.30 Part I: Introducing Germany Scheduling Your Time If you’re flying into the country from outside of Europe. and Berlin. in addition to Augsburg. and December 25 to 26 (Christmas). and Baden-Baden — are never more than three hours away by train. You can also arrange for boat trips on the Rhine and visit the winegrowing regions by car or train. Frankfurt airport has its own train station. Easter (including Good Friday and Easter Monday). consider centering your itineraries in Berlin. and Cologne. Corpus Christi (ten days after Pentecost). an easy hour-and-a-half drive away (see Chapter 16 for more details). Füssen. Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday). May 1 (Labor Day). the seventh Sunday after Easter). the latter of which has a new Delta direct flight from New York. Garmisch-Partenkirchen. you can easily reach places in the Bavarian Alps. In addition. Munich. ߜ From Hamburg. ߜ From Berlin. including Neuschwanstein. October 3 (Day of German Unity). the northern German cities of Lübeck and Bremen are a short train ride away. and Oberammergau. November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance). your airport choices are Frankfurt. the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany). so it’s possible to hop on a fast train at the airport and arrive almost anywhere in Germany within five hours or less of your arrival. ߜ From Cologne. ߜ From Munich. Ascension Day (ten days before Pentecost/ Whitsunday. and November 1 (All Saints’ Day). you have easy access to the cities of Dresden. and Weimar in eastern Germany. Nuremberg. . Munich. If a driving tour along the Romantic Road is part of your itinerary. Leipzig. Hamburg. and Lindau on Lake Constance. so you can choose the best time for your visit.

The country is most crowded during the months of May and June. the lines for major attractions. be prepared for variations. see Table 3-1 for Berlin in the north and Table 3-2 for Frankfurt in the south. and many hotels consequently offer lower summer rates.2 1. That said. crowds and prices tend to rise during big trade fairs. the high season for travel in Germany is from Easter to the end of September with another peak in December. Most castles and palaces can be visited daily yearround. Overall. July and August may be less expensive because that’s when Germans take off on their own holidays. generally from October through March. Watching those unpredictable skies Before I write about the weather in Germany. some locals claim that they now receive less snow and more rain than in decades past.) 30 –1 32 0 40 4 48 9 53 12 2. bear in mind that the climate is constantly affected by colliding continental and maritime air masses from the Baltic and North seas. although I can give you a very broad overview of general weather patterns in Germany.6 40 4 2. especially in the north. the weather in Germany has become less predictable than in the past. These trade fairs can put a real squeeze on hotel rooms. Recent summers brought record-breaking heat waves and even in autumn many parts of Germany can be warmer than expected. October and November and January through March are the low seasons.4 34 1 1. museums. In the winter months. In general. The average winter temperature hovers around 32°F (0°C). but from April through September.3 60 16 2. resulting in plenty of unpredictable weather. Average summer temperatures range from 72°F to 80°F (20°C–30°C). with a year-round schedule of major trade shows in all industries. °F Temp. and tourist offices have shorter hours and may be closed certain days of the week. or convention center/fairground. Table 3-1 Berlin’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Temp.2 2. For average temperatures and rainfalls. may be more than two hours long. Nearly all large German cities have a Messe. In northern Germany. temperate climate. or the Reichstag dome in Berlin. In southern Germany. Germany has a predominantly mild. for instance.2 49 9 1. °C Rainfall (in. As in many parts of the world.6 1. some report a hotter and drier climate. castles. like Neuschwanstein and Linderhof castles in Bavaria.9 64 18 62 17 56 13 2.2 1.7 .6 3. I think a disclaimer is in order. So.9 2.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 31 Traveling during high and low seasons Roughly speaking.

8 41 5 6. rainy weather can last well into early summer in Berlin and other northern cities.5 5. °F Temp.) 6. ߜ May and June is Spargel (white asparagus) season throughout Germany. Blossoming in spring Spring comes earliest in the south and in the Rhine Valley. the weather up north can remain. an early spring means that tables are set up in sunny squares and life begins to move outdoors. major attractions in cities throughout Germany tend to be more crowded. Even with clear skies.5 35 2 6 Temp.1 If your trip includes northern Germany. consider visiting in April and May.6 5. the months that are least cloudy. invigorating. shall we say. especially around Easter.5 66 19 66 19 58 14 4.32 Part I: Introducing Germany Table 3-2 Frankfurt’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 34 1 36 2 42 6 49 9 57 14 5. But keep in mind these springtime pitfalls: ߜ Cold. the least-gray months usually are June and September. In the interior of Germany. ߜ The carefully tended parks and gardens in German cities show off their first spring flowers. such as Lindau. The Föhn.7 5. ߜ The snow in the Alps usually melts by April. you find asparagus specialties on menus everywhere.1 5. °C Rainfall (in. heralds the approach of spring around the giant Bodensee (Lake Constance) and in the river valleys of the Black Forest and throughout southwestern Germany. leaving May as an “inbetween” off-month: The weather in the Alps tends to be soggy and foggy at this time. though.0 5. Here are some of the season’s highlights: ߜ The warmth of springtime sun coaxes out the new vines in Germany’s Rhineland wine country.2 50 10 4. .9 63 17 5. a dry south wind from the Alps. ߜ In towns around Bodensee. ߜ During school holidays. ߜ Blossoms appear on the fruit trees grown around the Bodensee and the Rhine.

heralding gray. mid. ߜ Warm summer nights stay light much longer. mild weather in southern Germany. ߜ Lakes in the Alps. autumn is likely to be rainy and blustery.and late-summer days can become hot. ߜ Many attractions are open longer hours. Glowing in autumn Fall is one of the best times to visit Germany. wet winters. or what the Germans call Altweibersommer (old women’s summer). . windless days. But keep in mind: ߜ Airfare tends to be higher during summer months. However. which also can be the case in Dresden. Indian summer. and the orientation of individual valleys to the sun. ߜ Air-conditioning is not common in Germany. until 10 p. ߜ In traffic-jammed cities like Berlin. hotels and concert halls can be broiling. Autumn days are beautiful in scenic Bavaria. after the grape harvest. Munich. In southern and western Germany. ߜ You can dine alfresco (outdoors) in most German cities. local winds. ߜ Heat and humidity can make for sticky sightseeing throughout central and southern Germany. ߜ Outdoor musical performances and street fairs take place in many cities and regions. The deciduous trees in the Black and Thuringian forests and along the Rhine. gasoline and diesel exhaust can create air pollution on hot. vines turn yellow. around Cologne and even as far north as Berlin. or sometimes later. In the north. making this a perfect time to explore the Romantic Road. humid. ߜ Getting into top attractions like Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace can take two hours or more. and Frankfurt. Leipzig. Summer weather in the Bavarian Alps is extremely variable and changes according to altitude. Some summer perks to consider: ߜ Prices for hotels often are lower in July and August. and thundery. you can generally count on warm. and other river valleys turn golden as the days grow shorter. Summer in the north comes later and remains variable because of maritime influences from the North and Baltic seas.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 33 Shining (and raining) in summer From April through September. and Berlin become more inviting as warm weather settles in. the Black Forest. frequently makes a welcome appearance during October and November.m. Neckar. and the landlocked eastern portion of the country.

where the winter weather is colder and snow adds to the beauty of the mountain and forest landscapes. ߜ Although you’ll be comfortable in your hotel.34 Part I: Introducing Germany A few advantages of autumn: ߜ Summer crowds have thinned out by the end of September. and baked delights. and other events swings into high gear. especially in the north. But with winter temperatures hovering right around freezing. and often turns into sleet. ߜ When the snow starts to fall in the Alps and the Black Forest. .m. Both the Alps and the Black Forest are known for their fine skiing and winter sports. handcrafted goods. This story is different in the Bavarian Alps and the Black Forest. ߜ Giant beer festivals transform Munich and Stuttgart. lending a special air to the country’s many Christmas markets. ߜ Germany’s cultural calendar of opera. Welcoming winter Snow can fall anywhere in Germany. skiers head for the slopes and cross-country trails. ߜ Almost everything shuts down on December 25 and 26 and New Year’s Day. snow doesn’t stay on the ground for long. and the Rhineland glow with autumn hues. Germans tend to underheat rather than overheat their spaces. the Bavarian Alps. cities throughout the country set up magical outdoor Christmas markets where you find tree ornaments. ߜ Daylight drops dramatically: Darkness falls as early as 3:30 or 4 p. ߜ Towns in winegrowing areas celebrate with wine festivals. symphony. This season has only one real drawback: Autumn may be gray and rainy. ߜ Scenic areas like the Black Forest. ߜ Airfares usually drop. and seemingly endless. Winter can be wonderful because: ߜ In December. numbing. The cold can be raw. ߜ The smell of new wine fills the old streets of winegrowing towns. Cologne and Munich celebrate with citywide carnivals (Fasching). ߜ In the weeks before Lent. But winter has its downside: ߜ Brrr. especially in the north.

contact Tourist Information (% 09861/40492. including concerts. plays. On special Saturday nights during Rhein im Feuerzauber (Rhine in Flames).de). www. www. During the Historisches Festspiel (Historic Festival).Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 35 Perusing a Calendar of Events Germany hums year-round with festivals and special events of all January New Year’s Day International Ski Jumping. or call or write for a free calendar of events. contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. festivals. See the appendix for the tourist board’s contact information. www. Goarshausen) illuminate their castles and set off fireworks. For information. Bingen and Rüdesheim. May through July. Celebrations in Cologne (% 0221/9433. Last week in May to the first week in June. The best . Koblenz and Braubach. For information. is one of Europe’s major winter sporting are particularly famous. Goar and St. Check its Web site ( and February The well-respected Berlin International Film Festival (% 030/25920. and in other churches and concert halls. The renowned Bachfest/Bach Festival (% 0341/ lasts for a week and showcases the work of international film directors in addition to the latest German films. Third week in May. and special exhibitions. Events take place twice a year. Second week in February. January 1. Rothenburg ob der Tauber celebrates the story of how a brave citizen saved the town from destruction by drinking a huge tankard of wine (an event called Der Meistertrunk). Verifying dates beforehand with the German National Tourist Board is a good idea. A week in February. first week of Fasching (Carnival) festivals take place in Catholic cities throughout Germany. www.garmisch-partenkirchen. reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday. where he was choirmaster. in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/180-700. and Munich (% 089/233-0300.muenchen-tourist. in Leipzig features performances of Johann Sebastian Bach’s work in the famous Thomaskirche. May Hamburg Summer is a summer-long series of cultural www. various towns along the Rhine (between Bonn and Linz.

Late July to late August. For details. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. August During Weinkost (Food and Wine Fair) in Freiburg im Breisgau. For events in Berlin. contact the German National Tourist Board (see the appendix for contact info). contact Heidelberg Tourist-Information. mid-July. www. July One of Europe’s major opera events. Last weekend in June. a big Frankish folk festival in Nuremberg (% 0911/468-600. performances. During the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival (% 0800/7463-2002. featuring parades. last weekend in June. takes place in the Rhine village most famous for red wines. For more log on to www.volksfest-nuernberg. and early September. www. www. contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau (% 06722/19433). www. features folk www. de). in Rüdesheim am Rhein. Cologne. local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district and regional food specialties. shmf. gay-web. . www. heidelberg. Mid-August. for events in Cologne. Pavillon (% 06221/19433. the Richard Wagner Festival (% 0921/78780. opera tickets must be booked years in advance. and street fairs. Mid-August. Unfortunately. MidJuly to early September. Berlin and Cologne have the largest Gay Pride festivals. The Traditional Rüdesheim Wine in Bayreuth. June Fireworks enliven the sky in the romantic university city of Heidelberg during the Floodlighting of the Castle. jazz contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. one of the best music festivals in Germany. Last week in August through first week in September. For information. May through September. Nürnberger Herbsfest (Fall Festival).freiburg. Events take place in the Münsterplatz surrounding Freiburg’s magnificent cathedral. classical concerts take place in venues in and around the lovely old city of Lü For information. takes place in the composer’s famous Festspielhaus (opera house). Berlin. For information. and events for the whole family. Early June. first weekend in June.36 Part I: Introducing Germany vantage point is from a riverboat on the Rhine. log on to www.freiburg. Enjoy vintages from the surrounding Black Forest area during Freiburg im Breisgau’s Public Wine Tasting.

include food stalls. At the Stuttgart Wine Festival. which take place around Binnenalster Lake. For information. symphony. Millions show November 9 to December 9. www. Events. Germany’s most famous festival. contact the Stuttgart tourist information office (% 0711/2228259. For information. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. is the biggest public event in northern Germany. and for and visitors pack hotels. www. One of the high points on the cultural calendar of Germany. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. www. contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. Last week in August. not October. the Berliner Festwochen (Berlin Festival) brings an international roster of performing artists to Berlin for opera. rides. the 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. Hamburger Dom (also called Winter Dom). October The largest book fair in contact TourismusZentrale (% 040/3005-1201. Dating back to 1818.oktoberfest. attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists. wine lovers converge on Schillerplatz to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. Mid-September to the first Sunday in October.000 beer drinkers. begins with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes and features food. September through mid-October. www. the Frankfurt Book Fair (% 069/21010. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. and theatrical presentations. Most activities occur at Theresienwiese. For more information. November The annual Jazz-Fest Berlin. September Munich’s Oktoberfest (www. Late September.stuttgart-tourist. Last weekend in 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 37 Arts and pleasure abound during Hamburg’s Alstervergnügen (Alster Pleasures). staged at the Philharmonie. happens mostly in is a major event in the world of international book publishing. where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to 6. . First week in Contact the tourist information office (% 0711/222-8259. and tents for beer drinkers. an annual amusement fair at Hamburg’s Heiligengeistfeld. for more details.

38 Part I: Introducing Germany December A Christmas Market. . takes place in town squares throughout Germany. and Stuttgart. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. for details (see the appendix for contact information). Dresden. Nuremberg. generally called a Weihnachtsmarkt (Weihnachten means Christmas) or a Christkindlmarkt (literally. or the German National Tourist Board. You find them in Cologne. Late November or early December until Christmas. Munich. “Christ Child Market”). among other cities. Contact the individual tourist offices of each city. Frankfurt. Leipzig.

Spend Day 1 in marvelous Munich. and Chapter 12 for Berlin. Chapter 19 for Cologne. one of the greatest food markets in Europe. Chapter 16 for the Bavarian Alps and its castles. some of these itineraries are more enjoyable if you have a car. the city’s main square. I include two of King Ludwig II’s castles and a brief stop in Cologne. on the Rhine. Munich’s largest church.Chapter 4 Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options In This Chapter ᮣ Seeing Germany’s top attractions in one or two weeks ᮣ Discovering Germany with your kids ᮣ Planning trips for wine aficionados P utting together a good itinerary is one of the hardest parts of any trip. Shake out your plane-cramped legs by taking to the streets for some general exploration. (See Chapter 1 for some preliminary information on what the country offers. I lay out some suggested travel itineraries for those with limited time or with special interests. watch the Glockenspiel. Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week This seven-day itinerary. You can go up to the top of the Rathaus tower for a bird’s-eye view. Then walk over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt.) Although you can reach all the destinations in this chapter by train or public transportation. see Chapter 7. how do you know what’s worth seeing and what isn’t? In this chapter. and visit the nearby Frauenkirche. Browse around and find a place for lunch from among the dozens of possibilities in the area. If you haven’t visited a destination before. For more information about the sights that I mention. make your way to the . Afterward. see Chapter 15 for Munich. beginning in Munich and ending in Berlin. shows you the contrasts between southern Germany and northern Germany and introduces you to the country’s two greatest cities. Head first for Marienplatz. For details on getting around the country.

You need the entire morning to wander through the enormous Residenz in central Munich. if you’re still in a “royal” mood. If you’re without wheels. Spend the night in Füssen. this castle quickly fills up with tourists as the day wears on. visit adjacent Hohenschwangau Castle. Three possibilities are the Neue Pinakothek. you may want to see the priceless collection of old masters at the Alte Pinakotheke. whose wares you may want to purchase. for a spectacular view of the Alps. Ludwig II’s Frenchinspired castle. At some point. you can easily get a bus from Füssen for the 6. and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. head to the Bavarian Alps. Then. Have lunch near Marienplatz. you can easily explore some of the sights along the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road). If you rent a car. choose a museum to visit. Ludwig’s childhood home.40 Part I: Introducing Germany Asamkirche for a glimpse of the baroque ornamentation for which southern Germany is famous. a beautiful baroque masterpiece located just a few miles north of Füssen. make your way to Füssen. the brand-new Pinakothek Moderne Kunst. If you’re driving. If you’re without a car. Or make an easy excursion to beautiful Schloss Nymphenburg. Tours of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castle take about one hour. as Germany’s most popular tourist attraction. the closest town to Linderhof Palace. which is famous for its woodcarvers. Munich is one of Germany’s top cultural capitals. Spend the night in Garmisch. If you’re interested in science and technology. the town closest to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles. make your way to the famous Deutsches Museum. or Füssen. choose another museum to visit. By train from Oberammergau. the trip is only 40 minutes by train or car to Oberammergau. Wander through this small Bavarian town. You can dine near the parking area below Neuschwanstein. the location for Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. Or you can take a train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and ascend the Zugspitze. Start Day 2 in a palace. creator of Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle. have dinner at the fun-loving Hofbräuhaus. the trip takes a little more than an hour. Munich’s largest and prettiest park. just south of Munich. fit in a stroll in the bucolic Englischer Garten. Make Neuschwanstein your top priority. and be sure to visit the collection of carriages. On Day 3. which displays an international collection of 20th-century masterpieces. and be sure to take time to stroll around the lovely historic district of town. On Day 4. If you’re an art lover. . a showcase for 19thcentury German and European art. allow some extra time to wander through the gardens. so you may want to end your evening at a concert or the opera. If you’re in the mood for oom-pah-pah. Oberammergau. take a bus from Oberammergau to Schloss Linderhof. In the afternoon. You can bring a picnic or order a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. Special cog railways and cable cars can take you up and bring you back down. which includes the bizarrely ornate sleighs and coaches used by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. Germany’s highest peak. From Garmisch.5km (4-mile) trip to the castle. In the afternoon. which you can reach by streetcar. If you choose Nymphenburg. you can make an easy excursion to the Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow).

000 years ago. You can also take a sightseeing boat ride along the Rhine. the symbol of the city. the country’s parliamentary headquarters. www. West Side: Germany in Two Weeks What a treat — two weeks to take in the sights! This suggested itinerary makes a clockwise circuit of Germany. Leipzig. superfast trains to Berlin (the trains depart from the Cologne Hauptbahnhof. take one of the sleek. To book a bus tour. such as the Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). and Weimar. for train information and schedules. (By fast train. For detailed information on the cities and sights that I mention. the trip from Munich takes about 51⁄2 hours. On the morning of Day 6. Enjoy the afternoon in this lively Rhine-side city by visiting the cathedral and one or two of its many fine museums. a concert. Stay overnight in Cologne and have dinner at one of the city’s famous beer halls (be sure to sample Kölsch.severin-kuehn-berlin. Take the elevator up to the new dome on top of the Reichstag — the dome is open late. contact Severin+Kühn. Chapter 15 for .) You’ll see Cologne’s greatest sight — the enormous Gothic Dom (cathedral) — as you step out of the train station. and the Reichstag. you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. From Potsdamer Platz. and Museum Ludwig. so when darkness falls you may want to attend an opera. Then stroll down the Ku-Damm. check out Chapter 12 for Berlin and Potsdam. The trip from Cologne is under 41⁄2 hours. sophisticated Berlin has endless things to do. call German Rail at % 11861). so come back later if the line is long. Chapter 14 for Dresden. From either city. before making your way to the airport. After your tour. the new quarter where the Berlin Wall once stood. the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. or a cabaret. the fastest train from Füssen takes about 7 hours. dedicated to the Romans who made Cologne one of their strategic forts nearly 2. make your way over to Potsdamer Platz. entirely devoted to 20th-century and contemporary art. Huge. too. Here’s hoping your flight home departs sometime in the afternoon on Day 7. so you can take advantage of the morning by going over to the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) to see the world-famous bust of Egyptian queen Nefertiti. Cologne’s delicious beer). you may be able to return the vehicle in Fü 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 41 If you have your car for a two-day rental. and stop in at the Pergamon Museum or the Altes Museum with their fantastic collections of antiquities. hop on the train and make your way to Köln (Cologne) for Day 5. so you may want to see an opera or attend a concert. Settle into your hotel and then take one of the sightseeing bus tours of the city — otherwise you’ll see only a fraction of this enormous metropolis. The city has an excellent music scene. western Berlin’s renowned boulevard. East Side. displaying old and modern masters. Then walk east down Unter den Linden to Museumsinsel (Museum Island). Berlin is famed for its nightlife. or you can drive back to Munich and return it there. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190.

which was ruled by the Communists until 1990. which displays the stunning bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. Head over to the Charlottenburg neighborhood for a tour of Schloss (Palace) Charlottenburg and a stroll through the palace gardens. Spend the morning of Day 3 at Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam. From Museumsinsel. a beautiful neoclassical square. Stop by the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church). the upscale shopping street. Berlin’s most famous park. the most historic part of the city. of course. and Chapter 18 for Heidelberg and Nuremberg. a vast collection of treasures accrued by Saxon rulers. the most famous boulevard in western Berlin. Start at Potsdamer Platz. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. the most famous boulevard in this part of the city. you can walk to Friedrichstrasse. you see a different side of Germany (literally) in the eastern cities of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). On Day 4. and. Plenty of entertainment options exist for the evening. you want to focus your attention on the Albertinum.severin-kuehn-berlin. visit one of Berlin’s great museums. or take the S-Bahn (the city’s system of elevated trains) to Hackescher Markt. Have something fun lined up for the evening: Berlin has three opera houses. You want to give yourself at least four hours for this excursion. Spend Day 2 on the western side of the city. is the starting point on Day 1 of your two-week tour of Deutschland.42 Part I: Introducing Germany Eastern Berlin has numerous attractions: Make sure that you stop at the Gendarmenmarkt. walk to the Brandenburg Gate and head east down Unter den Linden. You can eat near the palace or back in Berlin. Germany’s capital and largest city. is one of the great art cities of Germany. Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee. Chapter 16 for Bavaria and its castles. which includes a tour of Frederick the Great’s rococo palace and a walk through the landscaped grounds. an easy trip from Berlin by S-Bahn. variety shows. so start the morning by taking one of the sightseeing bus tours. three major symphony orchestras. left as a colossal ruin after the devastation of World War II. Head back to the Kurfürstendamm (known as Ku-Damm). cabarets. Dresden. Berlin is an enormous city. Then spend a while strolling in the Tiergarten. a pre–World War I quarter that now features several smart cafes and shops. the Residenzschloss. Devote your afternoon to exploring eastern Berlin. on the Elbe River about two hours south of Berlin by train. for lunch or to find a cafe for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). and wander into the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas’ Quarter) before you head up to the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) to visit the Pergamon Museum and/or the Altes Museum. www. to book one. Afterward. In the afternoon. the . Berlin. the most famous is the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum). countless bars and clubs. contact Severin+Kühn. Several museums are in and around the palace. then head over to the Reichstag and take the elevator up to the new dome for a view of the city. In Dresden. such as the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) or the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum).

and the Zwinger. the next stop on this itinerary. This small. If you love symphonic music. you won’t want to miss seeing a performance at the Semper Opera House. East Germany’s secret police. you can visit the small Bauhaus Museum. where he is buried. Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster of the famous Thomaskirche (St. is the town’s most visited 41⁄2-hour trips take place daily. hop on a train for Leipzig. and the Bach Museum is dedicated to his life and works. In 2005. Weimar has its dark side. a vaulted underground restaurant. be sure to reserve a seat to hear the worldfamous Gewandhaus Orchestra. Start your explorations at Marienplatz. In the early 20th century. portions of which have been left much as they were in his lifetime. only an hour away. Weimar was one of Germany’s great centers of art and culture during the late 18th and early 19th centuries.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 43 new home of the famed treasury known as the Green Vault. bustling city with a long musical tradition. fast trains take less than an hour to reach Weimar. the town’s liveliest square. pretty city. Germany’s “secret capital. lived here. is one of Germany’s literary meccas. Stay overnight in Weimar. the most important being the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery). which reopened in 2006 after being painstakingly restored. Otherwise (or afterward). Not far from the city center. is the Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial). the city’s main square. today. From Leipzig. From April through September. Your destination for Day 7 is delightful Munich. filled with leafy parks and neoclassical buildings. or take the train to Munich. the great German dramatist Friedrich Schiller. you have to make some decisions about what to see. too. the Bauhaus School of Art and Design operated in Weimar. From Dresden on Day 5. on the site of a Nazi-era concentration camp. your destination for Day 6. Thomas Church). and then head over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt to wander through this wonderland of an outdoor market. the journey takes about five hours. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and his friend. If you’re an opera lover. Make it a point to see the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). Choose a museum you’d especially like to visit: Most visitors make the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters . the Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) moved into a building close to Marktplatz. Spend the night in Dresden. a “city palace” near Goethe’s house. you may want to take an excursion boat along the Elbe into the area known as Saxon Switzerland. Visit the scene of Duchess Anna Amalia’s glittering salons in the Wittumspalais. The city has two unusual museums that shed light on the GDR era: The Museum in der Runden Ecke documents the methods of the dreaded Stasi. and the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) examines all aspects of life in the GDR from 1945 to 1989. Leipzig is a busy. Enjoy a dinner of regional food in the famous Auerbachs Keller. 3.” With only two days. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe’s House). a restored royal palace that is home to four museums.

your destination on Day 11. visit the nearby Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). From Munich or Füssen. take in another museum. and a famous casino. Lindau’s sunny charms are reminiscent of Italy. By car or train. Stay overnight in Munich. enjoy a stroll through Füssen’s lovely historic quarter. You have innumerable ways to spend the evening in this cultural mecca: opera. Freiburg’s lovely Münster (cathedral) and its surrounding square constitute the main sights in town. the trip to Lindau for Day 10 is about three hours by train. and mountains in the southwestern corner of Germany is famed for its health resorts. You need at least two hours to visit the entire complex. about 11⁄2 hours farther north by train. you may want to consider renting a car for the next four days. where Ludwig spent his childhood. if the afternoon is fine. This wine town has vineyards nearby and yearly wine festivals. the country’s largest lake and one of the largest bodies of water in Europe. a world-famous baroque masterpiece. The area has no important museums. travel time is about the same. beer halls. On Day 9. swimming. Stay overnight in Munich. Start Day 8 with a self-guided tour of the Residenz. Spend the day strolling in the sun (if the sun cooperates). Then. but the Deutsches Museum. many expensive shops. its hiking and recreational sports facilities. stay overnight in Füssen or return to Munich. Take your pick of cities to stay in.5km (4 miles) from the most famous tourist attraction in all of Germany: Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle. or taking a boat ride on the lake to the garden island of Mainau. If you opt for Baden-Baden. You can also visit neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle. After lunch near Marienplatz.44 Part I: Introducing Germany Gallery) their top priority. so just take it easy. pop concerts. If you have a car. Germany’s sunny southwestern corner comes as a surprise to many visitors. In Freiburg. Even if you’re driving from Füssen. At night. from Munich make your way to Füssen. symphony. sample one of the city’s many entertainment options. or Black Forest. You’ve no doubt heard about the Schwarzwald. Here you find the Bodensee. exploring the Bavarian Alps along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse (German Alpine Road). sitting under an umbrella at a cafe. 6. The charming and lively university town of Freiburg is about three hours by train from Lindau. Munich’s gigantic “in town” palace. you can continue on to Lindau. Give yourself some leeway with time because the crowds can be dense. devoted to science and industry. stroll in the lovely Englischer Garten and stop for a drink or a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. but doing so is not essential. Baden-Baden. Some small Bavarian village with a cozy Gasthaus (guesthouse) may catch your fancy. and its cuckoo clocks. If you’re without a car. But first. is one of the most popular museums in the country. If you have a car. valleys. . you can happily spend a few hours strolling through old streets lined by Bächle (little streams). resort-oriented town offers fine hotels and restaurants. beer gardens. and clubs. This upscale. theater. This scenic area of forested hills. or Lake Constance. is one of Germany’s premier spa towns.

which is less than an hour by train from Baden-Baden or 21⁄2 to 3 hours from Freiburg. or seated in a quiet. if you’re in the mood. Give yourself at least two hours to visit the marvelous Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). where your tour began. the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). just wander around without an itinerary. a little more than two hours by train from Nuremberg. . to catch your flight home. which covers the entire spectrum of German fine arts from its prehistoric beginnings to the present day. some aspects of traveling in Germany — taking a train.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 45 be sure to “take the waters” at Friedrichsbad. a 125-year-old mineralbath establishment. The Altstadt (Old Town) is where you want to stay and where you want to wander. Find a cafe to sit and people-watch while you plan your next trip to Germany. hop on the Bahn (train) in Heidelberg and in 31⁄2 to 4 hours. you can fly home from Frankfurt. You face difficulties in the basic areas of food choices and sightseeing options. Some hotels let children stay for free in their parents’ room. at the ones that don’t. and fine Gothic churches. head back to Berlin. You find squares with lovely fountains. for example. formal restaurant awaiting the main course. Everyone seems to love this ancient university town on the Neckar River. you’re in Nürnberg (or Nuremberg. If you have time in any of these cities before your flight departs. under two hours from Nuremberg. Luckily. one of the most attractive towns in Germany. stop at the Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) for a glimpse of the toys for which this city has long been famous. but you can take a tour of some restored rooms. or visiting a castle — appeal to kids just because of the novelty. Hike or take the funicular train up the hillside to the famed Heidelberg Castle for a stunning view of the town and the river valley. The museum’s restaurant is one of the nicest places to dine in Heidelberg. the experience takes about 31⁄2 hours. On Day 13. as it’s known in English). Stop in at the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate) for a look at Tilman Riemenschneider’s powerfully carved altarpiece. On Day 14. When it comes time to eat. On Day 12. especially on a warm evening when your table is in the courtyard near the fountain. No kid I know wants to spend two hours wandering around a museum admiring old master paintings. you can pay a few euros more and request an extra bed. I slant this very general itinerary toward outdoor activities and give other options only when they seem relevant. a picturesque area alongside the Pegnitz River. Discovering Germany with Kids Face it: Traveling with kids isn’t easy. the entire Altstadt is a pedestrian zone. As in many German cities.) Sit back and enjoy the scenery. make your way to Heidelberg. Then take a relaxing boat ride down the Neckar. (Alternatively. or from Munich. The castle is mostly in ruins. And then. The train ride from Nuremberg is about 51⁄2 hours.

On Day 3. Just remember one thing: Wellbehaved children are smiled upon in Germany. be sure to catch the Glockenspiel show at 11 a. Spend Day 1 in Munich. A cog railway and a cable car take you up and bring you back — a fascinating treat for kids. Later. Stay overnight in Garmisch. head over to the kid-friendly Deutsche Museum. Schloss Nymphenburg is on the top of your list.m.). and some intriguing buildings. Right next to Marienplatz is the Viktualienmarkt. cafes. The area around . with formal. By car or train make your way to Lindau. on the spire of the Rathaus. you can head over there in the afternoon. where you can wander along the tree-shaded walks. with easy access and reduced rates for kids. It’s loaded with interesting stuff for kids and adults. “Mad” Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle. The Schloss (palace) is a breeze to get to (it’s right in the city on the streetcar line). or even outdoor food stands (yes. dance in the meadows. including an 18th-century swimming pool and a baroque hunting lodge. The entire inner city is a car-free pedestrian zone where you and your kids can stroll with ease. the city’s main square. the other kind are not. and 500-acre Nymphenburg Park is grand and inviting. If you’re a dedicated hiker. and then drive or take a bus to Neuschwanstein. French-style gardens behind the palace and an English-style park with quiet meadows. Good skiing and ice-skating are available all winter. one of the largest and most beautiful city parks in Europe. Public transportation is a priority in every German city. but some of them are shorter and easy enough for children. you may want to take a train or subway over to the Englischer Garten (English Garden). The forested hills all around Neuschwanstein and neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle are full of excellent hiking paths. Germany’s mostvisited tourist attraction perches on a rocky spur that requires a good uphill hike to reach. the largest science and technology museum in the world. Most hikes take an energetic four to five hours.46 Part I: Introducing Germany look for casual bistros. Lindau is virtually car-free. the best outdoor market in Germany and a great place to have a casual lunch. You also can reach the castle by bus or horse-drawn cab. the area around Garmisch-Partenkirchen is magnificent hiking country. a sunny flower-filled resort town that sits on its own small island in the Bodensee. forested paths. or sit in the famous beer garden (nonalcoholic refreshments available for the kids).960m/9. Germany’s highest peak (2. so you and the kids can easily walk everywhere. you’ll also find American-style fast-food restaurants in all midsize and large cities). The view from the summit is — what else? — spectacular. If you didn’t make it to the Deutsches Museum the day before. You can find plenty of outdoor cafes around Marienplatz. you can rent a car or take the train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps south of Munich.720 ft. Drive or take the train to Füssen on Day 4. Here you’re going to ascend the Zugspitze. Stay overnight in Füssen and explore the charming old town on foot. On Day 2. Bodensee (Lake Constance) is your destination for Day 5. while there. Alternatively.

you can stop at two Black Forest lakes. The train trip from Freiburg takes about four hours. by car or boat. Freiburg.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 47 Bodensee is Germany’s sunniest corner. Most of the grapes grow on the warm lower slopes of the nearby Kaiserstühl (Emperor’s Throne).600 acres of vineyards. For more information. a famous mile-high peak with spectacular views of the Rhine plain. more than any other city in Germany. On this drive. you can hop on a train on Day 1 and be in Freiburg in about two hours. You can drive through this area on a daytrip from Cologne. Ride the train or drive north to Freiburg. I suggest that you rent a car for just one day. a volcanic massif. On Day 7 make your way back to Frankfurt or Munich for the trip home. From Cologne. your headquarters in the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) on Day 6.450m (4.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. and to the 1. The trip begins and ends in Frankfurt. Rheingau Rieslings rank among the best white wines made anywhere. You may want to incorporate this four-day itinerary into a longer trip. see Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee and Chapter 19 for Cologne and sights along the Rhine. The Mosel Valley. The young. If you’re traveling by train. southwest of Cologne. the city celebrates with a four-day wine festival that includes public tastings. dine at Zum Roten Bären. with stops for short hikes and cable-car rides to the top of the Belchen. Head to Cologne on the River Rhine for Day 2. wine has been produced since Roman times. the oldest inn in Freiburg. a lively university town in the Black Forest. On the last weekend in June. a plant-lover’s paradise. From Freiburg you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Schwarzwald. Or you may want to rent a car in Frankfurt for the duration of the trip. For a great meal with regional wines. In the Rheingau wine district. you can explore the neighboring wine country. The valley follows the course of . Spend the night in Lindau. is another scenic winegrowing region and your destination on Day 3. Or you can take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz. is surrounded by 1. How about that — the kids actually had a good time! Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers When you raise a glass of wine in Germany. a scenic winegrowing region. and the lake is clean enough for swimming.750-ft. a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine between the towns of Biebrich and Bingen. This itinerary takes you to the wine regions in western Germany. Weinkost is another wine-tasting event in mid-August. the toast often is a simple “Prosit!” (pronounced prohst). You can bike along the shore or relax on an excursion boat ride to the island of Mainau. light Silvaner wine is an ideal accompaniment to Spargel (white asparagus) in May. From Frankfurt airport. the Schluchsee and Titisee.

a convivial spot to sample Germany’s many fine vintages. If you have a few more days. Beautiful scenery and fine wines make this a prime area for leisurely exploration. both a hotel and a wine restaurant. or Freiburg. cruises depart daily from Koblenz to Cochem. which takes place the first week in June. a picturesque wine village surrounded by vineyards and a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. . is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. Cologne. The half-timbered Alte Thorschenke in Cochem. celebrates the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. you can continue your tasting tour of Germany.48 Part I: Introducing Germany the Mosel River for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. look for the local Weinstube (wine tavern). make your way back to Frankfurt on Day 4. From Cochem. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). The easiest way to enjoy a cruise down the Mosel River is to take a train to Koblenz. Wherever you go. Between late April and the third week in October.

Part II Planning Your Trip to Germany .

In Chapter 8. and Jewish travelers. guided and package tours. In Chapter 7. and how to get the best fare. and boat. In Chapter 6. In Chapter 9. his part helps you with the practical details of planning your trip to Germany. I tell you about traveling through Germany by train. or traveler’s checks. gay and lesbian travelers. money — so you have an approximate idea of what things cost and how to use ATMs. In Chapter 5. using cellphones and staying connected by e-mail in Germany.T In this part . I get into the nittygritty of Geld — that is. plane. credit cards. I offer advice and tips for visitors with special needs and interests: families traveling with children. outlining the kinds of hotels and guesthouses that you’ll find. car. I load Chapter 10 with information about getting a passport. explaining what hotel rack rates are. I go over the transportation options for getting you to Germany. including information on which airlines fly into Germany. buying travel and medical insurance. . . and adhering to airport security measures. I discuss all the various accommodations options. and offering suggestions for landing the best room at the best price. . seniors.

I tell you about flying to Germany and help you with some strategies for finding . Adding everything up. To come up with a workable figure. you want to go to Germany. or Los Angeles.Chapter 5 Managing Your Money In This Chapter ᮣ Planning a realistic budget for your trip ᮣ Changing your dollars into euros ᮣ Using ATMs. In the following sections. meaning money). traveler’s checks. Although you may think a trip to Germany is prohibitively expensive because of the transatlantic flight. the two German airports with several direct international flights. entertainment. you need to break down your trip into its various components: airfare. So this chapter is all about Geld (pronounced gelt. you often can find bargain airfares to Frankfurt and Munich. Planning Your Budget Planning a budget for your trip to Germany isn’t as difficult as you may think. for instance? And how much is a meal in a nice restaurant after you get there? This chapter points you toward all the answers. San Francisco. You may have heard that Germany is an expensive country — but just how expensive? What does a hotel in Munich cost? How much does a train ticket cost for travel from Berlin down to Bavaria. meals. the two most expensive German cities — can actually cost less than a trip to New York. and so on. hotels. Transportation costs Your first big outlay is going to be for airfare. your trip to Germany — even if you visit Munich and/or Berlin. I provide vital clues on how to create a realistic budget that works for you. You’re excited and eager to pack. transportation while there. In Chapter 6. and credit cards ᮣ Dealing with theft and loss ᮣ Paying and recouping German sales tax ᮣ Knowing when — and how — to tip S o. But can you really afford the trip? At this point. a financial reality check is in order.

or Old Town. you may need to take a local bus or taxi from the nearest town (Füssen. Based on my own experience. including advance purchase. to Frankfurt is possible for about $600 to $900 during low season and $800 to $1. The passes make getting around German cities fairly inexpensive (approximately $6–$8 per day). you can walk almost everywhere. Hamburg. Please note that these are ballpark figures for economy-class seats found by using every cost-saving trick in the book. I talk more about these cost-cutting train passes and the popular Eurailpass in Chapter 7. . and easy to use. you can hop on a bus or tram. Many larger cities have special passes that include public transportation and free or reduced-price admission to various attractions. that in some areas. round-trip fare from a major city on the West Coast of the U. From New York or Boston. you probably can find flights for $400 to $800 in low season and $700 to $1. You can order them through a travel agent or by calling Rail Europe at % 888-382-7245 in the United States. Finding flights that cost less is quite possible.200 during high season. The next transportation expense to consider is dependent upon how you plan to travel around Germany after you arrive.S. but so is finding flights that cost a whole lot more.raileurope. for Neuschwanstein) to the castle. Frankfurt. If you’re traveling by train and want to see some of Germany’s great castles. however. you can save money by buying a German Rail Pass before you leave home. such as Bavaria and the Black Forest. Berlin. Munich. U-Bahns are fast. having a car makes exploration of the countryside much easier. convenient. because city centers are so compact and close to the train stations. and Cologne all have subway systems called the U-Bahn (short for Untergrundbahn. such as Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. The historic inner-city area of German cities nearly always is called the Altstadt. I can tell you that finding a nonstop. If you’re planning to travel around Germany by train. If you don’t want to walk. or underground train).000 in high season. Special reduced-price transportation passes are good for a full day (Tageskarten) or longer on all forms of public transportation. In smaller towns and cities of Germany. That saves you a Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the cheapest airline fares. I mention these moneysaving cards in the city sections of this guide whenever they’re available and worthwhile. Keep in mind. 800-361-7245 in Canada. or by going online to www. Here’s some good news: You won’t need to rent a car in any German city because public transportation is so good. You can also tour by train throughout the whole of Germany without ever renting a car. The same cities also have light-rail or aboveground trains called the S-Bahn and a system of trams or streetcars and buses.

For the recommendations in this guide. But you can still find plenty of opportunities to drop a king’s ransom for a hotel. lunch. eating at top restaurants. breakfast. Outside of Munich and Berlin. In nearly every town and village throughout Germany. In recent years. offer bed. you hit the high end of 226€ ($282) and up. and so on). Food in Germany often is characterized as heavy. Make sure to ask about special deals wherever you stay. Although that may be true. however. giving a reliable average is difficult. hotels offer special price breaks for weekends (Wochenende) and during the summer (generally July and Aug). the rates at inexpensive hotels in Munich or Berlin. In some cases. hotel rates are lower. however. but you’ll find that many of the best restaurants in Berlin. See Chapter 8 for information on what to expect in each price range and for a discussion of your lodging options and how to get the best rate. the major cities. After that. however. a Weinstube (restaurant where wine is the primary beverage served). traditional German food also is ganz schmackhaftig (very tasty). and elsewhere offer special fixed-price meals that can be real bargains. 2-star. Munich. and expensive hotels cost from 176€ to 225€ ($220–$281). But because rates vary from one hotel to the next. That cost will be higher in Munich and Berlin than anywhere else in Germany. generally from 80€ to 150€ ($100–$188) per double room per night. As a general rule. you can find a Ratskeller (restaurant beneath a town hall). is going to cost. for instance. depending on their respective government-appointed categories (1-star. you’ll find that hotels throughout Germany are reasonably priced (and practically a bargain when compared to prices in other European countries).Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 53 Lodging expenses A large piece of your budget will be the cost of your hotel or other accommodations. isn’t the only cuisine you’ll find in Germany. no matter where you are. including breakfast. large cities like Berlin and Munich have emerged as international food capitals. Overall. or some other kind of nonfancy restaurant where you can dine inexpensively and well and where you can enjoy your meal among the locals. . Traditional food. Nearly all hotels throughout Germany (except for boutique or 5-star luxury hotels) include a buffet breakfast as part of the room rate. generally are less than 125€ ($156). Moderate hotels run from 126€ to 175€ ($158–$218). and a full dinner at bargain prices. Of course. especially in some of the truly elegant five-star properties. Many hotels in the Bavarian countryside. Throughout the country. the price drops so dramatically that you can stay in a double room at a five-star luxury hotel for less than 175€ ($219) per night. you can always find a double room in a good hotel in Germany for less than 150€ ($188) a night and sometimes for less than 100€ ($125) a night. a beer hall.

costs only 8€ ($10). You don’t have to buy anything at all.50–$9) anywhere in the country. When eating lunch and dinner at moderately priced restaurants in Berlin. generally around 5€ ($6. expect to pay from 3€ to 5€ ($2.25) round-trip. dinner for two at a good. In fact. But remember. Afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) sets you back about 7€ or 8€ ($9 or $10) anywhere in Germany. expect to pay about 3. sightseeing in Germany is fairly inexpensive. food is more expensive in big cities like Berlin and Munich. Sightseeing expenses Your budget for admission fees depends. The most expensive ride is to the top of the Zugspitze. Fortunately. or viewing the Brandenburg Gate. Outside of Berlin or Munich. The major cities — Berlin. Strolling down Berlin’s great avenues. Munich. if you’re a senior or a student. In some locations. of course. and you can hit the sack right after dinner instead of going to a concert or dancing at a club.75–$6. and you’re content with coffee and a roll at a stand-up counter (or a Starbucks). and back again. a buffet breakfast nearly always is included in your hotel cost. In addition. for example — sell special “Welcome” cards that get you into several museums for a reduced rate. on what you want to see. Only at luxury hotels do you have to pay extra for breakfast — usually 18€ to 22€ ($22–$27) — but the buffet breakfast invariably is fabulous. Throughout most of Germany. If you eat breakfast at a cafe rather than your hotel. expect your daily food cost to be about 25€ to 40€ ($31–$50). unless you splurge on really high-priced restaurants. Admission to Neuschwanstein. Germany’s highest mountain.50€ to 7€ ($4. the Bavarian castle that is Germany’s top attraction. the top attraction is a cable car that can whisk you to the top of a famous peak for a spectacular view. and that doesn’t include beer or wine. depending on the duration of the trip. City sightseeing tours by bus cost from 10€ to 24€ ($13–$30). exploring by foot in almost any German town is a good way to soak up the local culture free of charge. is kostenlos (free). you can expect to pay from 35€ to 50€ ($44–$62) per person per day (assuming your hotel rate includes breakfast).25) for admission to museums and local attractions outside of the big cities. You know what . Most cable cars cost much less. you can often get a reducedprice admission. Hamburg. Shopping and nightlife costs Shopping and entertainment are the most flexible parts of your budget. mid-priced restaurant averages about 28€ ($35) including beer. the cost for adults is 45€ ($56). As a general rule. And some of the top sights — such as the Reichstag in Berlin or the Frauenkirche and Englischer Garten in Munich — are free.54 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany As with hotels. Kurfürstendamm or Unter den Linden. Sightseeing boat excursions typically are 8€ to 15€ ($10–$19). Finding a museum that costs more than 8€ ($10) is rare.

cover charges are rarely more than 5€ ($6. If anything strikes you as something you can’t do without. the highest undiscounted rate charged by a hotel.25) 330€–490€ ($412–$612) Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by bus Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by taxi One-way U-Bahn (subway) fare within central Berlin Tageskarte one-day public transportation pass for two zones Double room without breakfast at Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) Double room with breakfast at Brandenburger Hof ($$$$) 245€–295€ ($306–$369) Double room with breakfast at Hotel Domus ($$–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Arco Hotel ($–$$) Dinner for one.75) 6€–8€ ($7.25). or tavern .50€ ($4. Table 5-1 Item What Things Cost in Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 2. Keep in mind that the hotel rates I quote here are rack rates. and an opera ticket in either Berlin or Munich anywhere from 10€ to 80€ ($13–$100). but drinks other than beer can be pricey. At mid-price and luxury hotels you can almost always find a lower rate that the one listed here simply by checking the hotel’s Web site and booking in advance.10€ ($2. Flip through the shopping and nightlife options of each destination chapter.10€ ($2.10). budget accordingly. at Die Quadriga ($$$$) Dinner for one. a glass of good German wine about 5€ ($6. especially. excluding wine. Tables 5-1 and 5-2 give you an idea of what things typically cost in Berlin and the rest of the country.50) 5.50) 20€ ($25) 2.25). at Marjellchen ($$–$$$) Meal for one. is a late-night city. bar. Berlin. excluding wine.50–$10) 3.40) (continued) Kaffee und kuchen at a cafe or stand-up coffee shop ($) Large glass of beer at a cafe.80€ ($7. excluding wine.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 55 you want.50€ ($3. (Keep in mind that a small beer sets you back about 2. so you may want to check out the club scene while you’re there. at Noodle ($–$$) Cafe meal for one at Café Silberstein ($) Sausage at a stand-up snack stand ($) 115€–150€ ($144–$187) 65€–97€ ($111–$121) 60€ ($75) 30€ ($37) 15€ ($19) 10€ ($13) 3€ ($3.

Bavaria . at Hofbräuhaus. Lindau ($) Double room with breakfast at Eden-Hotel-Wolf. at Der Kleine Prinz. including one glass of beer. Munich ($$$–$$$$) Fixed-price dinner for one. Baden-Baden ($$$–$$$$) Double room with breakfast at Burg Hotel. Baden-Baden ($$$$) Lunch for one. Rothenburg ob der Tauber ($–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Hotel-Garni Brugger. excluding beer. at Café Schinkelwache. ticket good for same-day admission to several other museums Admission to the Altes or Pergamon Museum (one ticket good for both on same day) Admission to Charlottenburg Palace and palace museums Opera ticket Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 23€–75€ ($29–$94) Table 5-2 Item What Things Cost Outside Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 50€ ($62)/34€ ($40) 151€ ($189)/96€ ($120) 190€–215€ ($237–$269) 90€–170€ ($112–$212) 86€–92€ ($107–$115) 139€–282€ ($174–$352) 57€–75€ ($71–$94) 12€ ($15) 35€–43€ ($44–$54) 20€ ($25) 8€ ($10) First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Dresden First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Munich Double room with breakfast at Der Kleine Prinz. at Zum Röten Bären. excluding wine.56 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Table 5-1 (continued) Item Admission to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). excluding wine. Munich ($) Admission to Neuschwanstein Castle. Freiburg ($$$) Dinner for one. Dresden ($) Fixed-price dinner for one.

250) 70€ ($87) Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun Throughout this book. Wednesday. If you can travel at off-season times (Oct–Nov and Jan–Mar).Chapter 5: Managing Your Money Item Admission to Zwinger Palace (all museums). The same is true for July and August. which means more beds are available in German hotels. If you can travel on a Tuesday. ground transportation. ߜ Try a package tour. Here are some additional cost-cutting strategies: ߜ Go during the off season. Sound odd? Not really. hotel. airfares vary depending on the day of the week and even the hour you fly. be sure to ask whether you can get a cheaper rate by flying on a specific day. When you inquire about airfares.000€ ($6. or Thursday. or other groups may qualify you for discounts on . or packager — and you’ll pay much less than if you tried to put the trip together yourself (see Chapter 6). Because more rooms are available. Semper Opera House. Baden-Baden Tank of unleaded gas. you can book airfare. economy car 57 10€ ($13) 4€ ($5) Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8. Bargain Alert icons (like the one in the left margin) highlight money-saving tips and/or great deals. In general. you’ll find hotel prices are as much as 20 percent less than during peak months. which are peak travel months for Germans but often a time of lower hotel prices. or Berlin. frequent-flier plans. airline. Germans tend to travel outside of Germany on their holidays. Dresden Complete bath and massage treatment at Friedrichsbad.50€ ($10)/3€ ($3. and even some sightseeing by making just one call to a travel agent. For popular destinations like Frankfurt and Munich. ߜ Travel on off days of the week. Munich Adult/child admission to Deutsches Museum (Science and Industry). Munich Opera ticket. Dresden Admission to Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery). prices go down. you may find cheaper flights to Frankfurt. Generalizing about airfares is difficult because the entire industry is changing all the time. Membership in AAA. AARP. Munich. ߜ Always ask for discount rates.75) 25€–80€ ($31–$100) 29€ ($36) 5. Baden-Baden Average losses at gambling tables.

And many hotels won’t charge you the additional-person rate when that person is pint-size and related to you. That’s what the Germans do. prices at lunch are lower than those at dinner.) ߜ Try expensive restaurants at lunch rather than dinner. At most top restaurants in Berlin and Munich. 1€. ߜ Travel second class. 2¢. Regardless of where you travel in Germany. First-class train tickets generally cost about one-third more than standard second-class tickets. car rentals. beer steins. ߜ Walk a lot. and 2€. As a bonus. and off-season special offers. If you’re headquartering in one city and making side trips to nearby towns. ߜ Know the advantages and disadvantages of buying a rail pass before you leave home. A good pair of walking shoes can save you money on taxis and other local transportation. cuckoo clocks. ߜ Ask if your kids can stay in your room with you. hotel rooms. Most German cities are compact and eminently walkable. One euro is divided into one hundred cents. To encourage year-round tourism. The amount of money you save with a rail pass depends on how often you use it and how far you go. or Old Town. 50¢. Your photographs and memories make the best mementos of your trip. midweek. many hotels in Germany offer special price breaks on weekends or midweek during the off season. you save a bundle by not taking two rooms. Even if you have to pay a few extra euros for a rollaway bed. Sometimes these special rates are offered as romantic getaway packages and include dinner and a glass of wine. Attractions within Germany usually offer a lower admission rate for seniors. If you’re worried about your budget. Handling Money In January 2002.58 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany plane tickets. ߜ Skip the souvenirs. Bavarian hats. key chains. (See Chapter 8 for some recommended Web sites. and students with ID. Surfing the Web is the best way to find out about special packages at specific hotels. and the menu often includes many of the dinnertime specialties. Each usually has a historic Altstadt. Coins come in denominations of 1¢. Germany’s unit of currency changed from the Deutsche Mark to the euro. do without the T-shirts. 10¢. Notes are . 5¢. and you can explore at a slower pace. 20¢. you get to know the city and its inhabitants more intimately. A room with two double beds usually doesn’t cost any more than one with a queensize bed. always look for value-added fixed-price menus. that contains most of the attractions and is within walking distance of the train station. and guided tours booked before you go. ߜ Ask about weekend. and the trinkets sold at major tourist attractions. buying your local train tickets in Germany is cheaper. children.

is the rate you get when you use your own currency to buy euros. check the back of your ATM card for the network to which your bank belongs. train stations. In German cities. and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. 100. Cirrus (% 800-424-7787. The coins have different sizes. though some banks provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. Each bank-note denomination has its own color. In general. and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. or didn’t even know you had one. then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. It usually takes five to seven business days. check with your bank or look in the newspaper to find out the current rate. call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. You also can check currency conversions online at www.) When you’re about to leave on your trip.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 59 available in 5. and weights according to value. and outside provided you know your PIN. the amount you can withdraw must be in a checking (not a savings) account. I round it off to the nearest nickel. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you .S. At some banks. The exchange rate. if more than $10. and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. As with any unfamiliar currency. You also can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or are the most popular networks. 200. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad. Using ATMs and carrying cash The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an automated teller machine (ATM). Make sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home. you find 24-hour ATMs (often called Geldautomat) in airports. and PLUS (% 800-8437587. many banks now assess a 1 percent to 3 percent “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency). Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time your card is used at a different bank’s ATM. 10.xe. I use this approximate exchange rate for prices in this book. 50. to the nearest dollar. 20.25. In addition. price is less than $10. the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own ATM fee. 1€ = $1. www. and 500 denominations. (If the U. euros take a bit of getting used to. Charging ahead with credit cards Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses. which fluctuates daily. If you’ve forgotten yours.mastercard.

95 fee at most AAA offices or by calling % 866-339-3378. You pay a service charge ranging from 1 percent to 4 percent. all major rail stations. and $1. many pensions (B&Bs) with one to three guest rooms operate on a cash-only basis. $100. Cashing traveler’s checks is more timeconsuming and can end up costing more because you must go to a bank or money-exchange service and pay a check-cashing fee. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide and at several other banks.m. Changing your currency in Germany You can easily change cash or traveler’s checks by using a currency-exchange service called a Geldwechsel or bureau de change. Call % 800-732-1322 for information. post offices countrywide. These services are available in German airports. Some credit-card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges. checks come in denominations of $20. to 10 p. Toting traveler’s checks These days.m.m. $500.m.60 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany factor in things like high ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates and service fees. . Call % 800-223-9920 for a location near you. Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the service charge. a card may not work for any number of reasons. you can always call the card’s toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused — a good reason to carry the phone number with you. Currencyexchange windows in airports and rail stations generally are open daily from 6 a. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. In smaller German towns and villages. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. to 1 p.000. $100. as do some restaurants. many tourist information offices. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling % 800-221-7282. traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that enable you to withdraw (usually for a fee) small amounts of cash as needed. and American Express offices.000. $50. AAA members can get Visa checks for a $9. $500.m. and (for cardholders only) $1. Banks generally are open weekdays from 8:30 a.5 percent and 2 percent. and 2:30 to 4 p. American Express offers denominations of $20. Even if you don’t call your credit-card company in advance. The service charge ranges between 1. so having a backup is the smart way to go. any branch of a major bank. $50.

com). Hamburg. Find Citibank branches in Berlin. and file a report at the nearest police precinct. if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID. If you need emergency cash during the weekend. Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your www. call the toll-free number directory at % 800-5551212. Cologne. go online to www.equifax. and Munich. Your credit-card company or insurer may require a police-report number or record of the credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (% 800-766-0008. . among other cities. call the following numbers: ߜ American Express % 954-503-8850 (collect) ߜ MasterCard % 0800/819-1040 (toll-free) ߜ Visa % 0800/811-8440 (toll-free) or 417-581-9994 (collect) For other credit cards. americanexpress. Frankfurt. www. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately. Dresden.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 61 If you choose to carry traveler’s checks. The three major U. the airline may allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed.S. You can find addresses for American Express offices throughout Germany at www. Heidelberg. they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Leipzig. Most credit-card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen. Experian (% Hamburg. www. placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet Be sure to contact all your credit-card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. you can have money wired to you via Western Union (% 800-325-6000. Leipzig. American Express has offices in Berlin. Citibank customers using ATMs at German branches of Citibank don’t pay additional withdrawal fees. transunion. For addresses of Citibanks in Germany. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards.experian. Cologne. and TransUnion (% 800-680-7289. If your credit card gets lost or stolen while you’re in Germany. Finally. call your airline and explain the situation. www. be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in case they’re stolen or lost. when all banks and American Express offices are and Munich. You can avoid paying a second commission fee by using American Express traveler’s checks and cashing them at an American Express office.

you can add 5 percent to 10 percent to your bill. or round up to the next euro. Before checking your luggage upon your departure from Germany. (The general hotel and restaurant prices in this book include VAT. and railroad stations. This hefty percentage already is figured into the total prices of consumer goods and hotel and restaurant bills. Otherwise. ferry ports. have the voucher stamped by German Customs to confirm that the goods have been exported. In restaurants. If you’re not a resident of the European Union. Then.25 per bag carried) and doormen who hail you a cab (1€/$1.62 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Taking Taxes into Account Germany’s version of a sales tax. redeem the voucher for cash (euros or dollars) at a Europe Tax-Free Shopping window. amounts to 16 percent. A Tip about Tipping As a general rule.) This tax isn’t a hidden expense.25 per successful hail). Germany isn’t a country where you must tip excessively. which must be completed by the store and must have a copy of your sales receipt attached to it. you’re staying in an expensive hotel with porters who carry your bags (1€/$1. unless. if the service has been very good. of course. you receive a tax-free voucher. called the Mehrwertsteuer (abbreviated MWST) or value-added tax (abbreviated VAT). shop at stores displaying a Tax-Free Shopping sign. To receive a refund. . Most stores have a minimum amount that you must spend to qualify for the refund. service charges are included in the bill. located at all major airports. border crossings. When you make a qualifying purchase. you can get a VAT refund on purchases made in Germany (excluding hotel and restaurant bills). and you can’t avoid paying it.

an airport is called a Flughafen (floog-haf-en). Germany’s national carrier (now partnered with United Airlines and Air Canada). Portland (Oregon).C. and from Toronto and Vancouver. D. Germany has several airports. but if you’re coming from the United States. Flying into Frankfurt Frankfurt airport. has direct flights to Frankfurt from Atlanta. Stuttgart. Berlin (one flight only). In this chapter. You also can fly to Cologne. Canada. The following airlines offer direct flights: ߜ Lufthansa. I discuss getting you to Germany. Boston. Philadelphia.Chapter 6 Getting to Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Deciding which German city to fly into ᮣ Saving on airfare and booking online ᮣ Arriving in Germany by train or boat ᮣ Joining an escorted tour ᮣ Finding out how a package tour can save you money N ow that you’ve decided to visit Deutschland (Germany. that is). these routes require a change of planes — usually in Frankfurt. and Washington. Munich. San Francisco. Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where In Germany. . and other cities in Germany. See the appendix at the back of this book for a list of the main international carriers with direct flights into Germany from the United States. and Australia. Los Angeles. nonstop flights? How can you save money on your flight (and your hotel)? What are the pros and cons of taking an escorted tour? You find answers to your basic travel questions here. and Düsseldorf. Chicago. Miami. Amsterdam. the United Kingdom. Nuremberg. but direct flights from the United States fly only into Frankfurt. is Germany’s main international hub. Paris. called Flughafen Frankfurt Main. or London. Copenhagen.. you’re going to need to find a way to hop across that little puddle called the Atlantic. What are your options for direct. Houston. New York JFK. Newark. Detroit. Dallas/Fort Worth.

and Weimar (see all in Chapter 14). Delta flies nonstop from Atlanta. JFK. Delta currently is the only airline that flies direct to Berlin from New York. ߜ United Airlines offers nonstop service to Frankfurt from Chicago and Washington. Minneapolis/St.C. For more information on the Frankfurt airport. this airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world (completely accessible for the disabled).C. Excursion boats leave from Cologne for trips on the Rhine and other German rivers (see Chapter 19). Paul. but you probably will fly into Tegel. Chicago. ߜ Munich: Franz Josef Strauss International Airport. D.S. Direct flights also are scheduled from most major European cities. ߜ Cologne: Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn is a good spot to land whenever you’re planning to tour western Germany and the Rhineland wine country. Flights to other cities in Germany from Frankfurt rarely take more than 11⁄2 hours.64 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ American Airlines has nonstop service to Frankfurt from Dallas/ Fort Worth. and British Airways flies nonstop from London. See Chapter 15 for more about flying into Munich. The airport has its own train station. From Berlin. . In each city section of this guide. you can easily reach other cities in eastern Germany by train. and San Francisco. Leipzig. Chicago. Chicago. Lufthansa flies nonstop to Munich from Newark. especially Dresden. see Chapter 20. Australia. so you can fly in. Boston. ߜ Delta Air Lines has daily nonstops from Newark and Atlanta. D. Flying into other German airports Here’s a brief rundown of other major airports in Germany and some of the airlines that fly into them. I give you more specific information about how to get into the city from the airport. ߜ Northwest Airlines (partnered with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines) flies nonstop to Frankfurt from Boston. which is quite small but has easy public transportation into central Berlin. British Airways and British Midland fly direct to Cologne from the United Kingdom. See Chapter 11 for a complete description of Berlin’s airports. Opened in 1992. ߜ Berlin: Berlin has two airports. and Washington. ߜ British Airways flies direct to Frankfurt from London. is Germany’s second-largest airport. and Miami. ߜ Qantas flies to Frankfurt from Melbourne and Sydney. and be off to your first destination. Although no direct flights are scheduled from the U. located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. and you’re close to Hamburg and the northern Hanseatic cities (see Chapter 13). hop on a train..

Bucket-shop tickets usually are nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties.statravel. Every airline offers virtually the same product (basically. or Thurs).com). you nevertheless can use the airport in Düsseldorf as an alternative to Cologne. Consolidators. often as high as 50 percent to 75 percent of the ticket price. The airlines also periodically hold sales in which they lower the prices on their most popular routes. .com) (% 800/TRAV-800. and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. From Düsseldorf. a coach seat is a coach seat is a . Delta offers service from Atlanta via Paris. airlines is unlike that of any other industry. and yet prices can vary by hundreds of dollars. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the is owned by package-holiday .eltexpress. also known as bucket shops. offers good fares for travelers of all ages. stay overnight Saturday. These fares have advance-purchase requirements and date-of-travel restrictions. Aer Lingus flies nonstop from Dublin. ELTExpress (Flights. STA Travel (% 800-781-4040. ߜ Hamburg: Direct flights to Flughafen Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel are scheduled from most major European cities.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 65 ߜ Düsseldorf: Although I don’t cover Düsseldorf in this guidebook (the closest city that I cover is Cologne in Chapter 19). are great sources for international tickets. Wed. ). but they often can’t beat the Internet. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel has excellent fares worldwide. keep your eyes open for these sales. November.S. Getting the best airfare Competition among the major U. Obviously. planning ahead pays. and you’re willing to travel midweek (Tues. . which tend to take place in seasons of low travel volume: October. but none arrive directly from the United States. www. If you can book your ticket far in advance. but you can’t beat the prices. the world’s leader in student travel. www. particularly to Europe. FlyCheap (% 800-FLY-CHEAP [800-359-2432].1800flycheap. such as Frankfurt and Munich. you can qualify for the least-expensive price — usually a fraction of the full fare. reaching the Rhine Valley is easy. known as the full fare. and January through March in Germany. Business travelers who need the flexibility of being able to buy their tickets at the last minute and changing their itineraries at a moment’s notice — and who want to get home before the weekend — pay a premium rate. www. Lufthansa and Continental offer direct flights from Newark. As you plan your vacation. British Midland has flights from London.

com). such as Smarter Travel (smartertravel. www.insideflyer.66 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany megalith MyTravel and has especially good access to fares for sunny in Europe often have better deals than the major-label sites.travelocity. so shopping around is wise. Expedia (www. Consider which airlines have hubs in the airport nearest you. Travelocity (www. consult Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer ( receives good reviews from users. SideStep (www. www. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline Web sites or check megasites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute or Hotwire ( given your most common routes. Air Tickets Direct (% 888-858-8884. If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight and opodo. U. Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a is based in Montreal and leverages the Canadian-dollar exchange rate for low and www. It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once” but in reality beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites And you don’t have to fly to earn To play the frequent-flier game to your best (Canadian travelers need to try www. well-known carriers — and the possibility of being sent from New York . Both offer rock-bottom prices in exchange for traveling on a mystery airline at a mysterious time of day. For last-minute Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same flights. The mystery airlines all are major.orbitz.sidestep. but it does entitle you to better seats. sell most air tickets bought on the Internet. Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the airlines. Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends. and prompter service if your luggage is stolen or your flight is canceled or delayed. but some can be booked weeks or months in advance. Booking your flight online The “big three” online travel agencies. of those carriers. faster response to phone inquiries. and www.travelocity. Expedia and Travelocity also will send you an e-mail notification whenever a cheap fare to your favorite destination becomes available.airtickets direct. which have the most advantageous residents can go for expedia. Most of these deals are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased online. use an opaque fare service like Priceline (www. and Orbitz (www. With more than 70 mileage awards programs on the market.S. Investigate the program details of your favorite airlines before you sink points into any in the U.expedia.lastminute. Of the smaller travel agency Web sites.priceline. frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. or if you want to change your seat. consumers have never had more options. and. Most are valid for travel only that weekend. often with a mysterious change of planes en route.

com ߜ www. are taken care of onboard the train. have more than one station. When you’re traveling between countries. or 11 p. International ferry services are available from the United Kingdom. EuroCity (EC) trains connect Germany with neighboring countries. Trains are very much a part of the German (and European) travel ethic. and sleek. seaeurope. Have no ߜ www.cheapflights. Priceline usually has better deals than Hotwire. contact Rail Europe (% 888-3827245 in the U. such as Berlin and I discuss traveling around Germany by train and the various rail passes that can cut down on transportation costs. DFDS Seaways (% 800-533-3755.S. England. Russia. Arriving by boat Germany’s northern coast lies along the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. Other helpful Web sites for booking airline tickets online include ߜ 114 in the U.opodo. high-speed Thalys trains link Cologne and Düsseldorf with Paris and Brussels. such as passport checks. Its Web site provides useful trip-planning information on train schedules and travel times.kayak. Finland. ߜ provides ferry service from ߜ www. ext. flight are pretty high. For more information about trains in Europe. and from all directions. In Chapter 7. promotional offers. Perhaps you’re flying into Paris and from there going on to Berlin or Heidelberg as part of your European dream vacation.biddingfortravel.raileurope. Traveling by train Germany is extremely well connected by train to the rest of Europe.m. I tell you how to get into the city center from the train station. 800-361-7245 in Canada. You can reach all major German cities by train with ease. Major cities.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 67 to Frankfurt via Detroit is remote. Arriving by Other Means Germany is accessible by land and sea. border formalities. which usually is conveniently located. In every city section of this guide. to . and Canada. But your chances of getting a 6 a. Latvia. www. Denmark.S. so it’s easy to include Germany as part of a larger European trip.lastminutetravel. Sweden. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you buy. www. fares. and Estonia. but you have to play their “name our price” game.. but you almost always find one main or central inner-city station called a Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof).m. and rail-pass prices.

ask a few simple questions before you buy: ߜ What is the cancellation policy? How late can you cancel if you can’t go? Do you get a refund if you cancel? Do you get a refund if the operator cancels? ߜ How jampacked is the schedule? Does the tour schedule try to fit 25 hours into a 24-hour day. but they should be able to give you a rough estimate. because they may not know the exact size of the group until everybody has made their reservations. so you don’t encounter many surprises. but the information can help you select a tour that’s sure to take place. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. Tour operators may be evasive about providing this fact.m. Get travel insurance through an independent agency. sounds like a grind. Joining an Escorted Tour Some travelers to foreign destinations prefer escorted tours. along with finding out whether you have to put down a deposit and when final payment is due. ߜ How big is the group? The smaller the group. Again. The tour company takes care of all the details and tells you what to expect on each leg of your journey. tour operators may be evasive with their answers. but drinks . ߜ Does the tour require a minimum group size? Some tour operators require a minimum group size and may cancel the tour when they don’t book enough people. (I tell you more about travel insurance in Chapter 10. find out what it is and how close they are to reaching it. You know your costs upfront. the less time you spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. If you decide to go with an escorted tour.m. But don’t buy insurance from the tour operator! If the tour operator doesn’t fulfill its obligation to provide you with the vacation you paid for. every day and not returning to your hotel until 6 or 7 p. If a quota exists. the journey takes 20 hours. you have no reason to think that the tour operator will fulfill its insurance obligations either. certain escorted tours may not be for you. Silja Lines (same telephone and Web site as for DFDS Seaways) sails from Helsinki across the Baltic to Rostock in northern Germany. I strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance.) When choosing an escorted tour. or does it give you ample time to relax or shop? If getting up at 7 a. A box lunch may be included in an excursion. especially when the tour operator asks you to pay upfront.68 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Hamburg. You may be required to get yourself to and from the airports at your own expense. ߜ What exactly is included? Don’t assume anything.

while others are more general. an eight-day Bavaria and Bodensee tour with stops in Munich. Its 12-day European Horizon tour (from $1. Munich.079 per person double occupancy without airfare) and its offers escorted grand and highlight tours that cover most of Germany. such as castles on the Rhine for history buffs. and Prague (from $2. ߜ Maupintour (www. package tours can be a smart way to go. provides escorted tours for 18. www. with no exceptions? Are all your meals planned in advance? Can you choose your entree at 35-year-olds and has offices in the United States. Potsdam. a package tour that includes airfare. hotel. Choosing a package tour For many destinations.649.contiki.879 without airfare). and destinations in the rest of Germany (or include Germany in a Europe-wide tour). and a nine-day Berlin-to-Bohemia tour that takes you to Berlin. or does the bus leave once a day. com) provides escorted tours in western and southern Germany. 8-country European Magic tour (from $1.959 without airfare). That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour operators. The following companies offer escorted tours to Germany: ߜ Brendan Worldwide Vacations (% 800-421-8446. Munich. not including airfare. .globusjourneys. Dresden. Neuschwanstein and Oberammergau. or does everybody get the same chicken cutlet? Tour operators in the United States Several companies offer escorted tours to Berlin. Black Forest. including a stay in a castle on the Rhine and exploration of German vineyards. offers “Romantic Rhine. ߜ Brennan Vacations (% 800-237-7249.” a nine-day Rhine cruise that includes visits to vineyards and trips to Cologne and has an eight-day escorted tour of German Christmas Market Towns from $2. and Mainau (from $2. and Leipzig. How much flexibility does the tour offer? Can you opt out of certain activities. ߜ Contiki Holidays (% 866-CONTIKI. Contiki also offers an escorted eight-day Berlin–Prague trip. and the United Kingdom. In many cases. and transportation to and from the airport costs less than the hotel alone on a tour you book yourself. A good travel agent can help you find a tour that suits your particular interests.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 69 may be extra. Cologne. who then resell them to the public. including Berlin. Meissen.maupintour.279 per person double occupancy without airfare) include stops in the Rhine Valley and Munich. Beer may be included but not wine. Canada.brendan vacations. Australia. www.brennanvactions. Many escorted-tour companies cater to special interests. ߜ Globus (www.

Add-ons include a Munich city tour. and an array of sightseeing and transportation add-ons. ߜ United Vacations (% 800-800-1504. Prices depend on your departure city. and Lastminute.70 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Every package tour is different. National Geographic offers flight and hotel packages to Frankfurt and Munich. check out the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper or the ads in the back of national travel magazines. Other good sources of package deals are the airlines. Travelocity.unitedvacations. your choice of accommodations and travel days may be limited.deltavacations. The following U. and a day tour of Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace. — also do a brisk business in packages. and Berlin.nwa worldvacations. and Condé Nast has air/hotel packages to Frankfurt. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. others allow you to add on just a few excursions or escorted daytrips (also at discounted prices) without booking an entirely escorted tour. If a packager won’t tell you where it’s based. Some book flights on scheduled airlines. Liberty Travel (call % 888-271-1584. has air/hotel packages to Berlin. ߜ Delta Vacations (% 800-221-6666.bbb. which typically amount to about $80. don’t fly with it. check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based. a daylong Rhine tour from Frankfurt. www. You also can rent a car or buy a Eurailpass for train has a hotel/airfare package to Frankfurt from a number of U. Some let you choose between escorted vacations and independent vacations. . vacations. Munich. and is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast and usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers. some provide the same hotels for lower prices. www. Locating airline and hotel packages To find package tours. and many let you choose the hotel category you want. such as Travel + Leisure. Airline packages don’t always include airport taxes and surcharges. departure cities. Orbitz.libertytravel. Site59. ߜ Northwest Airlines World Vacations (% 800-800-1504. In some packages. or go online to www. Munich. others sell airlines offered packages to Germany from the United States in 2006: ߜ Continental Airlines Vacations (% 800-301-3800.S. Several big online travel agencies — Expedia. If you’re unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager.

You’ll notice fascinating differences in culture. Germany (356. If you want to get a feel for the country. the trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps is only an hour by car and less than 90 minutes by train. you can get from Berlin. in about seven or eight hours. Australia. From Munich. With the area added by reunification. Many historic towns and castles in Germany are manageable daytrips from larger cities. The cities in western Germany — Cologne. . in the south. Heidelberg. customs. I Weighing the Options: Train or Car? Because of Germany’s comparatively small size and easy-access train and road networks. The train trip between Hamburg and Lübeck is less than an hour. where you can sip wine in a small Rhineland village or explore a scenic region like Bavaria. and Canada. By fast train or car.Chapter 7 Getting Around Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling through Germany by train ᮣ Touring the sites by car ᮣ Cruising the rivers of Germany ᮣ Flying from city to city n this chapter. the mode of travel best suited to your needs and itinerary. From Berlin you can reach Dresden or Leipzig in about two hours. in the north. km/137. consider exploring at least a portion of Germany that has nothing to do with huge urban Berlin or Munich. food.735 sq. the country is a snap to explore. Compared with the United States. miles) is smaller than the state of Montana (but with more than 80 million people). When you get out of the cities and into the countryside. Germany is a fairly small country. you find out more about your travel options within Germany — that is.734 sq. the atmospheric charms of Germany are most strongly felt. and language as you travel from one part of Germany to another. Stuttgart. Nuremberg — usually are no more than two or three hours apart by car or train. to Munich.

I recommend traveling by train above all other forms of transportation — especially if you’re a first-time visitor to Germany. On IC trains. . and from Berlin to Munich. ICE trains have telephones. ICE trains run from Hamburg to Munich. having a car in scenic areas. and a high standard of comfort in both first and second classes. at DB’s Web site. Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go In Germany. a restaurant. reaching speeds of 265kmph (165 mph). Dining cars (Speisewagen. What follows is a rundown of the trains that you find within Germany: ߜ InterCity (IC) passenger trains offer express service between all major German cities at intervals of one or two hours. a train is called an Eisenbahn (eye-sen-bawn) or a Zug (zoog). enabling passengers to cross the entire country in only a few hours. The railway system in Germany is operated by Deutsche Bahn (DB. and convenient. And. which connect major cities on heavily traveled routes. IC trains have adjustable cushioned seats.72 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany So should you rent a car or take the train? In almost all cases. individual reading lights. in English. Each train makes stops at cities along the way. are among the fastest in Europe. ߜ InterCity Express (ICE) trains. yes. Train types The federally owned and operated Deutsche Bahn has been modernizing and upgrading its trains steadily while integrating two different systems (Deutsche Bundesbahn in western Germany and Deutsche Reichsbahn in eastern Germany) into one. pronounced shpy-zuhvahg-en) and cafe or bistro cars (for lighter snacks) are on all trains.bahn. speed. However. If you need any kind of train-related information while you’re in Germany — from timetables to fares and special services — call DB’s general information number at % 11861. fun. ICE significantly reduces travel time. I recommend train travel for its convenience. www. German Rail in English). long-distance and local train timetables are coordinated to minimize waiting for connections. Following basic training Throughout Germany. and telephone service. you can choose whether to sit in a compartment with six seats or in an open saloon coach. enables you to explore the countryside more easily. and fun. You may be surprised by the bright-red. high-tech look of the newest trains. such as the Black Forest (Chapter 17) or the Romantic Road in Bavaria (Chapter 16). Traveling by train is Someone who speaks English will be available to help you. from Frankfurt to Munich. You also can access train information online. German trains almost always run on time.

pronounced nickt rau-kin) sections. ߜ For shorter local trips. and a more luxurious feel. fewer passengers. Economy provides a four-bed compartment with washing facilities (you can book this class as a single or double). when you’re onboard the train for seven hours or more.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 73 ߜ The CityNightLine (CNL) is one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe. Station stops are short. This train operates between Berlin and Zurich (stopping at Frankfurt. usually within a suburban area around a large town. ߜ DB Nachtzug (Night Train) service is available between many cities in Germany and continues on to Amsterdam. Ticket classes German trains have a two-tiered ticket system: first class (Erste Klasse) and second class (Zweite Klasse). Baden-Baden. Paris. Hamburg and Zurich. Berlin and Dresden. pronounced raukin) and nonsmoking (nicht rauchen. All German trains are divided into smoking (rauchen. First-class service on InterCity Express (ICE) trains includes a higher standard of personal service. First-class tickets cost about one-third more than second class. you find a well-marked button that automatically opens the door. RegionalExpress (RE) trains link rural areas to the long-distance rail network. In new high-speed trains. and Copenhagen. The Ruhesessel (sleeper chair) category offers open saloon seating with reclining seats. say. among other towns). and a panoramic window with blinds. Sleeping accommodations in Deluxe include compartments with a shower and toilet. and Freiburg. Brussels. you can order beverages and snacks that . You can specify your preference when reserving your seat. you may need to open the door by pulling up on a handle. Prague. Comfort Single or Double gives you a singleor double-bed compartment with washing facilities. In other trains. you may need to transfer to a RegionalBahn (RB) train to reach your destination. The CNL offers four different categories. so have your luggage in hand and be ready to disembark when the train comes to a halt. key cards. S-Bahn (urban light-rail) trains are used. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations. Eurail and GermanRail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation. But you can travel quite comfortably in second class. The first-class cars have roomier seats. The CNL includes a restaurant and cafe car. phones for wake-up service. and Dortmund and Vienna. You may appreciate the difference on long-distance journeys — from Berlin to Munich. which now sometimes is called standard class. For some outof-the-way places. The night trains have comfortable couchettes (basic sleeping compartments) and some more deluxe sleeping compartments with showers. An announcement is made before the train arrives at each station.

and not spending the night. you can take yourself and your car on an overnight car-sleeper Auto Train. comes along for the ride. and so on. train times can be 13:00 (1 p.m. daytime automobile trains also operate. When you reach your destination. First. getting to your track without help may be difficult. departure is Abfahrt (ob-fahrt). you can take an elevator to the track level. you can pick up your car and go. up to 23:59 (11:59 p. But in others. 14:00 (2 p. Auto trains If you want to avoid long-distance driving but need a car after you arrive at your destination. German train stations in major cities offer all kinds of services. you need to find the right track (Gleis.25). (Just another way of saying: Don’t overpack. heavy bags. Hotels are always close at hand. . the German train system works on a 24-hour clock. The German word for arrival is Ankunft (on-koonft).). or main train station. 15:00 (3 p. In large cities. On some trains.). and track numbers. and usually a tourist information office.m.).m. an employee comes through both first. In many German train stations. so you can continue your local explorations by subway.and second-class passengers otherwise use the same dining cars and cafe cars for buying sandwiches and drinks. the time on the schedule reads 16:20. Although less common. prominently placed departure and arrival boards list train numbers. or you can use self-service luggage trolleys available for 1€ ($1. porters (recognized by their red or blue uniforms) can transport your luggage. If you’re arriving in a city for sightseeing only. tram. you can check your luggage (Gepäck.74 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany are brought to your seat.m. light-rail. Midnight always is listed as 0:00 hours and noon is 12:00.and second-class cars with a food-and-beverage trolley. rarely is more than a few minutes’ walk from the historic town center and all the main attractions. stowed elsewhere. This information also is posted as a printed schedule in the station. which sometimes have a ramp for luggage trolleys and baby carriages. pronounced geh-peck) at a luggage checkroom. final destinations.). or bus from there. You ride in a sleeper compartment on the train. Like other European trains. Heading to the Hauptbahnhof A German city’s Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). The station always is a main link in the city’s public transportation system. food and beverages. If you’re loaded down with several large. including currency exchange. arrival or departure times. Local and commuter trains don’t have food service. At larger stations. Therefore. you must climb stairs.. If your train leaves at 4:20 p. newsstands. while your automobile.m. pronounced glice) for your departing train.) Getting off on the right track After arriving at the station.

Trains can be very long. At Rail Europe’s Web site. second-class. They help you save time (ticket lines can be long) and. the seat reservation costs 3€ ($3. Or stop in at the Rail Europe Travel Centre. they can’t be purchased after you arrive in Germany or the rest of Europe.S. www. Saving time and euros with rail passes Rail passes are tickets that enable you to travel for a certain number of days without buying a ticket for each leg of your journey. Travel agents throughout the United States and Canada sell all the rail passes described later in this section. or 800/361-7245 in Canada. The Wagen numbers correspond with numbers or letters on the second-class cars will stop. raileurope. money. You can make a seat (Platz. bahn.K. www. If you have a Eurailpass. pronounced plotz) reservation and buy train tickets (Fahrkarten. and restaurant cars.raileurope. If you have a German Rail Pass or a Eurailpass (see the next section). You’re issued a ticket that lists the Wagen (car) number and the Platz (seat) number.S. Each make your way to the platform areas where the first. 178 Piccadilly. or Canadian dollars) of fares between destinations within Germany. You can also find exact fares on Deutsche Bahn’s Web site. do a little research to find out whether it’s going to save you money. look for the Reisezentrum (travel center). Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Germany and continental Europe. Web site: In larger stations. com. is always a good idea. Diagrams posted on the platform show the layout of first-class. Check the diagram and then make your way to the appropriate area of the platform before the train arrives. usually 1 to 6 or A to G. which allows you to order by phone or online.75). reserving your seat in advance. Reserving your seat When traveling for any distance in Germany. or Wagen (vah-ghen). www. you can click on “Fares and Schedules” and get an estimated cost (in U. Otherwise.. but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. and you’re risking a journey without a seat reservation. London WI . is In smaller stations. Most rail passes must be purchased before you leave home. Before you buy a rail pass. make your booking at the ticket counter.raileurope.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 75 If you have a reserved seat. the only free seat you find may be in the smoking area or out in the hallway (I speak from experience). so you want to be near the appropriate area for boarding when your train pulls into the station. even if you have a Eurailpass or German Rail Pass. usually. your ticket lists the car and seat number. In larger stations. or far-karten) at any train station. the staff usually speaks English and can answer any questions you have. You can check out passes and prices at Rail Europe’s U.

including Germany. Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe The Eurailpass is one of Europe’s best bargains. you can purchase the passes online at www. A four-day pass costs $263 first class or $200 second class. and $1.108 for 3 months.76 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany (% 08708/371-371 in the U. .K). Main. German Rail Passes for kids ages 6 to 11 are half the adult price. entitling you to unlimited second-class travel for $394 for 15 days. $897 for 2 months.S. German rail passes: For Deutschland only The German Rail Pass allows for four consecutive or nonconsecutive days of travel in one month within Germany. Sample prices: $163 for four days. With a Eurailpass you can enjoy unlimited first-class rail travel in 18 countries. Passes are for periods as short as 15 days or as long as 3 months. These passes are for consecutive days of travel. Some of the most popular each additional day costs $38 first class. Rail Europe also provides cost-effective “Rail ’n Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car. Sample prices per person: $200 for four days first class or $150 for second class. you can purchase a Eurailpass Youth. including destinations not serviced by trains. $510 for 21 days. including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth. or 800-361-7245 in Canada). If you’re younger than 26. are available only to travelers younger than 26 years of age. The second pass represents a 50 percent savings over single prices. spend three days exploring the city. and then rent a car for a two-day excursion into the Bavarian Alps to see Ludwig’s castles. each additional day $13. and free travel on KD German Line steamers (daytrips only) along the Rhine. you can ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich. Children younger than 6 travel free. $25 second class. German Rail Passes are most conveniently available from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. A German Rail Pass also entitles the bearer to free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus. For instance. An even bigger bargain is the German Rail Twinpass. The 15-day Eurailpass costs $605. and Mosel rivers. $634 for 1 month. with additional days available for a reduced price.raileurope. these passes allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries. A German Rail Youth Pass is valid only for persons younger than 26 years of age and is available only in second class. for two adults (they do not have to be married and can be of the same sex) traveling together in first or second class..

Prepaying rentals in dollars before leaving the United States offers some advantages. good for first-class travel for 10 or 15 days in a 2-month period. Eurailpass Saver for two to five persons traveling together. including the Eurail Pass Flexi. Germany has scenic regions — the Romantic Road.raileurope. and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. Several international car-rental firms rent cars in Germany. A host of different Eurailpass options are available.. and Benzin I’m a Zug (train) nut. www. for example — where even I succumb to car rental to explore the countryside. Buy your Eurailpass before you leave home. . which cost extra. Canada. Renting a car in Germany Renting a car is fairly easy in Germany. however.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 77 Eurailpasses can be bought and used only by non-European residents. Remember. keep in mind that you may get a better rate if you reserve the car at least seven days in advance. If you’re going to tour Germany by car. See the appendix for a list of names and contact information. and the Black Forest. Whenever you rent. Drivers from the United States. and other non–European Union countries must have a valid driver’s license. allowing travelers to select three. but no other special license is required. Australia. four. You can pick up your car at most airports and major train stations. Touring by Car: Autobahns. You can often rent a car in one German city and return the vehicle in another city for no additional charge. the Bodensee. The night trains have couchettes (sleeping cars).com).S. Seat reservations are required on some trains. the rental process is more streamlined. that if you opt to prepay and your plans change. However. or 800361-7245 in Canada. have to pay a penalty of around $25) for changing or canceling a prepaid contract. and Eurail Selectpass. You get an easy-to-understand net price (which you have to prepay by credit card at least 14 days before departure). from a travel agent or from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. Eurailpass holders also are entitled to considerable reductions on certain buses and ferries. nothing is more pleasant than sitting in a train and watching the countryside roll by. you have to go through some rather complicated paperwork (and. in some cases. or five countries linked by rail or ferry. you may want to pick up a copy of Frommer’s Germany’s Best-Loved Driving Tours (Wiley). To me. I recommend that you make all the arrangements before you leave home. Tankstellen. or at an office within German cities.

by the letter B (examples: A96. another passenger. which are available at all major bookstores throughout Germany. In this book. B31).. Hallweg also produces good road maps. or someone else. If you don’t have a CDW and have an accident. You can purchase extra days for both train travel and car rental. in general. www. individual Autobahns are indicated by the letter A followed by a number. fast lane). Taking the roads less traveled The roads that make up the Autobahn (pronounced otto-bahn) form Germany’s main long-distance highway network. Germany’s road signs are standard international signs. finding your way by looking for directional signs rather than highway number signs is easier. The government recommends an Autobahn speed limit of 130kmph (80 mph). I recommend that you purchase all the optional insurance coverage. If you rent a car in Germany. A German driver on the Autobahn can be like one possessed. the Rhine Valley. and Bundesstrassen. consider taking out Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) for extra liability coverage. Michelin publishes the best regional maps. right lane. the Autobahn does not have a speed limit (in the left.78 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany You can also rent a car through Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. or 800-361-7245 in Canada. So exercise reasonable caution. They offer a German Rail ’n Drive option that gives you two days of unlimited train travel (first or second class) and two days of Hertz car rental within one month. so if your own car insurance doesn’t cover you abroad.” earlier in this chapter). you’ll pay for all damages up to the cost of actually replacing the vehicle.raileurope. A Collision-Damage Waiver (CDW) is an optional insurance policy that can be purchased when you sign a rental agreement. some secondary and local roads are not in good at the same time you book your German Rail Pass or Eurailpass (see “Saving time and euros with rail passes. Neither the CDW nor credit-card companies cover liability if you injure yourself. so call your company to check on these benefits before you spend the extra money on additional insurance. Some credit cards (especially platinum and gold cards) cover the CDW. In theory. The Bundesstrassen in the major touring areas of the Romantic Road in Bavaria. See Table 7-1 for a few important words that you should know. However. In eastern Germany. The Bundesstrassen (state roads) vary in quality from region to region. but many drivers going too fast report that they’ve been stopped by police and fined on the spot.S. so you may prefer the slower. . and the Black Forest are smoothly paved and kept in good repair.

or roadwork One-way street Entrance End Danger Turn left Turn right Road narrows Attention! Look out! Following the rules of the road If you’re going to drive in Germany. And I mean fast. ߜ Unless posted differently. Children younger than 4 must ride in a car seat. or beginning Exit Building site. Do not drive in this lane unless you are passing another car. ߜ You can pass other vehicles only on the left. . you need to know a few general facts: ߜ Signs show distances and speed limits in kilometers (km) and kilometers per hour (kmph).62km. A kilometer is 0. Children younger than 12 must sit on booster seats in the back so that regular seat belts can be used safely.62 of a mile.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 79 Table 7-1 German Anfang Ausfahrt Baustelle Einbahnstrasse Einfahrt Ende Gefahr Links einbiegen Rechts einbiegen Verengte Fahrbahn Vorsicht German Road Signs English Translation Start. the left lane is the fast lane. and a mile is 1. German motorists generally flash their lights if they want you to move over so they can pass. speed limits are • 50kmph (30 mph) in towns • 100kmph (60 mph) on regular highways • 130kmph (78 mph) on Autobahns ߜ On Autobahns. ߜ The law requires that all passengers wear seat belts.

But remember that gas is always much more expensive than in the United States. you find emergency phones every 2km (about 11⁄4 miles). is readily available throughout Germany. they have the right of way. Look for parking lots and parking garages outside the center. . Super Plus Bleifrei (supreme unleaded). signs on the way into town indicate how much space is available in various lots or parking garages. Emergency assistance is free. the point of the black triangle on posts alongside the road indicates the direction of the nearest phone. If you’ve had more than a glass of wine or beer. because most historic town centers are for pedestrians only. 81373 München (% 089/ 76760). On the Autobahn. in some larger cities. Am Westpark 8. The cheapest gasoline is at stations marked SB-TANKEN (Selbstbedienung. ߜ You must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. You fill your tank and pay inside at the counter. The types of gasoline are Normal Bleifrei (regular unleaded). Sailing through Germany: River Cruises Germany’s major river is the Rhine. You insert coins (or credit cards) to purchase a certain amount of time. bitte (please) Gasoline. If you don’t belong to an auto club. expensive. Fill ’er up. or just plain impossible. ߜ Driving while intoxicated and drinking while driving are very serious offenses in Germany. you can call ADAC from an emergency phone. The self-service process is basically the same as that of the United States. If you have a breakdown on the Autobahn. call ADAC’s breakdown service at % 01802/222-222. but you pay for parts and materials. Handling a roadside emergency The major automobile club in Germany is Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobile Club (ADAC). or self-service). and gas stations. called Benzin (ben-seen). Super Bleifrei (super unleaded). They are always identified by a large P. In English. Through the centuries. Filling up the tank of a medium-sized car will usually cost about 60€ ($75). Most parking lots use an automated ticket system. which flows through the heart of Europe from the Alps to the North Sea. and snowfalls. heavy rain. called Tankstelle (tonk-shtel-leh) appear frequently along the Autobahns. ߜ Parking in the center of most big towns is difficult. don’t risk driving. ask for “road service assistance” (Strassenwachthilfe). more castles were built in the Rhine Valley than in any other valley in the world. and diesel.80 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ You must use low-beam headlights at night and during fog.

The Main flows from the Danube.. flows past the great art city of Dresden. If you’re looking for an unusual and relaxing way to see Germany. A trip that normally takes seven or eight hours by train or car takes about an hour by offers the most extensive and frequent flights within the country. and continues northeastward. waiting for your departure.lufthansa. CA 91367 (% 877-66VIKING [845464]. in the city center. Itineraries range from 2 to 20 nights. and then getting into the city after your plane lands . or Peter Deilmann EuropAmerica Cruises. com). The Elbe. The downside is that you won’t see the countryside. for example. Alexandria. Viking KD River Cruises and Peter Deilman EuropAmerica Cruises offer several cruises along these three great waterways. by or www. which begins in the Czech Republic. 01803/803-803 in Germany. Cologne. past Frankfurt. You can fly this route.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 81 This area has great appeal to visitors. For more information. In the city and regional chapters of this guidebook. and Canada. www. www. Flying doesn’t make much sense if you’re traveling short distances between cities that are connected by high-speed trains. Woodland cuts through Germany’s eastern border in a beautiful area called Saxon Switzerland (see Chapter 14).S. but when you factor in time spent getting to the airport. you can already be there.rivercruises. situated on tributaries of the Elbe are Berlin and Hamburg. say. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. or from Cologne in the west to Leipzig in the east. Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? Flying from city to city within Germany makes sense if you’re traveling from. Dresden. mostly between April and October but with some in December. Frankfurt. you may want to consider this option. 21820 Burbank Blvd.deilmanncruises. . Suite 170. VA 22314 (% 800-348-8287. I tell you about river excursions along the Mosel and Neckar rivers and local sightseeing cruises in Berlin. Hamburg or Berlin in the north to Munich in the south. but other European carriers are increasing their German domestic routes. www. going through security. Lufthansa (% 800-645-3880 in the U. takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. 1800 Diagonal Rd. .. and Heidelberg. and enters the Rhine at the city of Mainz. The train from Frankfurt to Stuttgart. .

and every country offers its own lodging possibilities. especially in the middle of winter. and the Bodensee (Lake Constance). In a small village.Chapter 8 Booking Your Accommodations In This Chapter ᮣ Checking out the options ᮣ Getting the best room for the best rate ᮣ Surfing for cyberdeals ᮣ Landing a room without a reservation T his chapter deals with that age-old question asked by every traveler going to an unfamiliar country or city: Where should I spend the night? Everyone travels differently. Berlin. hotels in the inexpensive-to-moderate range always are first to be snapped up. such as the Black Forest. Cologne. Booking ahead isn’t as important in the rest of Germany. but I still recommend doing so — particularly when you’re going to be spending a Friday or Saturday night in a major tourist spot like Dresden or Füssen. and how to get the best deal for your money. finding a room may be as simple as spotting a sign in a house window that reads Zimmer frei (room available). booking your hotel room ahead is essential — especially if you’re going to be in Munich during Oktoberfest. and other cities throughout the country play host to large trade fairs and special events that make hotel rooms scarce. Hotels in popular tourist areas. you won’t have a problem booking a room on the spot. During off season. like Berlin and Munich. near Ludwig’s castles. also fill up quickly during high season. From April through September. you find out about German hotels — how to find them. how to book a room online. Throughout the year. Frankfurt. Munich. and again in December (the period that constitutes high season). . In the following pages. the Rhine and Mosel valleys. what to expect in each category. wherever you are. In Germany’s large cities.

cereal. The system isn’t used to recommend hotels but rather simply to categorize them according to their amenities. In all types of accommodations in Germany. and others charge 10 percent of the first night’s hotel rate. so the service ends up costing nothing. Even the smallest Pension (bed-and-breakfast. breakfast may be coffee. Most tourist information centers also have a free directory of local accommodations.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 83 Tourist information centers. You’re most likely to find them in midrange to high-end hotels. You won’t find a speck of Schmutz (dirt) in any of them. pastries. If two beds are joined to make a double. or B&B) must open its doors for inspection to be able to list and rent rooms. and some cold cuts. I don’t use that star-rating system in this book. buttoned within a sheet. located in or near the main train stations in all German cities and towns. A one-star hotel is basic and inexpensive. and local tourist boards control standards in all categories of accommodations. You find all types of lodging. except at some boutique and high-end luxury hotels. Hotel associations. eggs. you find a Decke (deck-uh) on the bed. regional tourist associations. feather-filled covering. Charges for this service vary. Finding the Place That’s Right for You Germany has very high standards for hotels and inns. cozy inns. fruit. but you get that back at the hotel. I try to give you the best options in different price categories. rustic guesthouses. from luxury old-world palaces and super-high-tech showoffs to hip boutique hotels. can help you find a room. This light.75). depending on the size and degree of luxury. small family-run hotels. At hotels. fresh bread. breakfast is more likely to be a self-serve buffet with juice. and smoked fish or pickled herring. cold cuts. The term for “no smoking” is nicht rauchen (nickt rau-kin). you find a Decke on each side. . Some places charge nothing. an egg. A Decke is what Americans call a comforter or duvet. yogurt. instead. others charge a small fixed fee (usually no more than 3€/$3. a roll with butter and jam. Smoke-free rooms and smoke-free floors finally are catching on in Germany. In a pension. These same state agencies and tourist boards rate hotels according to a star system. But remember that Europeans in general are not as committed to smokefree environments as are Americans. and simple rooms in private homes and apartments. takes the place of blankets. chain hotels. Breakfast (Frühstück) always is included in the price of a room. A five-star hotel is a luxury property with an on-site spa or pool and a rate at the top end of the price spectrum.

which often are the best restaurants in town. you have several different kinds of hotels and accommodations from which to choose. Small Luxury Hotels. I describe each type. Bathrooms are large and well equipped with magnifying mirrors. Sheraton. in particular — have properties in this luxury category. 24-hour room service is available. The hotel has at least two fine gourmet restaurants. Breakfast may or may not be included. and the property has an on-site health club. For the . beginning with the most expensive. they generally cost 150€ ($188) and up. Some brand-name hotel chains — Hyatt. Amenities typically include brand-name toiletries. German. such as Relais & Châteaux. Ringhotels. Mercure. and Treff Hotels. Le Meridien. Hotel Brandenburger Hof in Berlin (Chapter 11) emphasizes a sleek. classic Bauhaus style. and Steigenberger. but they are beautifully fitted out.25 per bag). Expect to pay 175€ ($219) and up. Der Kleine Prinz in Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) is built around oldfashioned luxury. which you can find in every chapter’s hotel listings and in the appendix. Park Plaza/ Art’otel. satellite TV. and international chains include Accor. Most boutique hotels are too small to have a pool or health club but may have an arrangement with a nearby facility. Best Western. In the following sections. Mövenpick. Boutique hotels generally have fewer than 70 rooms and offer a unique ambience and high level of personalized service. Ramada — names you probably know — all have hotels in Germany. The rooms themselves are generally spacious and beautifully furnished with amenities such as a minibar. Boutique hotels always have a fine-dining restaurant and a bar. usually with a sauna and pool. Inter-Continental. a minibar. a couple of phones. Kempinski. These establishments often are part of hotel associations. Luxury hotels Public spaces in luxury hotels are sophisticated and elegant. Swissôtel. Radisson SAS. and high-quality toiletries. tubs (often with whirlpools) and showers. but also look for special weekend rates on the hotels’ Web sites. high-speed and wireless Internet access. The Bleibtreu in Berlin (Chapter 11) is big on hip. Charges for the (fabulous) breakfast buffet are anywhere from 17€ to 22€ ($21–$27). Porters are available to take your luggage up to your room (tip 1€/$1. The staff is unusually welcoming and the service impeccable. Boutique hotels Think of them as small luxury hotels. and Romantic Hotels. Chain hotels Holiday Inn.84 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In Germany. Your bed is turned down at night. InterCity Hotels (always near train stations). Pricewise. What you don’t get is a free breakfast. and bathrobes. European. and bathrobes. Rooms and bathrooms are not always large. cable and satellite TV. highspeed and wireless Internet access. the Hotel Excelsior Ernst in Cologne (Chapter 22) and the Hotel Adlon in Berlin (Chapter 22) are two of the most luxurious luxury hotels. Travel Charme. contemporary design. Each one has its own personality. telephone.

usually no more than three total.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 85 most part. Prices for a small to midsize independent hotel range from 85€ to 175€ ($106–$219). you find a telephone and cable TV. and dinner to hotel guests and outside patrons. and many of the properties are older and located in the oldest and most picturesque quarters of the city. Tour packagers and convention planners often house their groups in chain hotels. Rates are typically from 55€ to 110€ ($69–$137). You probably won’t find a telephone in your room or too many amenities. Prices vary greatly for chain hotels. and the hotel often has an on-site pool or health club with sauna. and the upper floors. Guesthouses A guesthouse. and somewhat anonymous. Properties like Hotel Jedermann in Munich (Chapter 15) or Hotel-Garni Brugger in Lindau (Chapter 17) offer basic. Garni. In general. lunch. means that breakfast is the only meal the hotel serves. Most guesthouses don’t have an elevator. chain hotels offer brand-name familiarity and dependable service. a word sometimes attached to a hotel’s name. Bathrooms are smaller and less glamorous than the ones in a luxury or boutique hotel property. You’re more likely to find guesthouses in small towns. The Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg and Feriengasthof Helmer in Schwangau (see Chapter 16 for both) are examples of this kind of accommodations. The rooms themselves often are charming — what you’d typically expect in an old-world inn. or in the country than in large cities. comfortable rooms without much personality but at hard-to-beat prices. and sometimes a minibar. The rooms are smaller and have a more standardized décor than rooms in luxury hotels. in medium-sized cities. have just a few rooms. cable TV.or three-star rating by the local tourist authority. is basically an inn with a restaurant that serves breakfast. which typically are given a two. some with breakfast included. You generally find different room categories. Smaller independent hotels Many small and medium-sized hotels in Germany are family owned and operated. The inn may also offer a special rate for dinner or lunch and dinner. but your rate will include breakfast. expect to pay anywhere from 110€ to 175€ ($137–$219). other rooms have sinks but share bathrooms and showers in the hallway. called a Gasthaus (gahst-house) or a Gasthof (gahsthofe). Room service is available. Amenities include a telephone. Some rooms have small private bathrooms with showers or bathtubs. They also tend to be newish. In these hotels. . The ambience tends to be rustic and cozy. enormous. Shopping around on the Web may net you some big savings. The restaurant occupies the main or first floor. Rates at small and midsize properties always include a buffet breakfast. depending on the time of year and the presence of trade shows or conventions.

In all but the smallest accommodations. Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. A travel agent may be able to negotiate a better price with certain hotels than you can get by yourself. but you can almost always do better. as occupancy rates rise and fall.86 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Pensions The Pension (pronounced pen-see-own in Germany) has long been the backbone of budget travel in Germany. hotel rates usually go down in July and August. rooms start around 30€ ($37) per person per night. It’s the rate you get if you walk in off the street and ask for a room for the night. considered high season elsewhere in Europe. the rate you pay for a room depends on many factors — chief among them being how you make your reservation. (See Chapter 3 for more information on Germany’s different seasons. and guesthouses. Prices aren’t negotiable at smaller hotels. Room rates (even rack rates) change with the season. A pension is the same as a B&B (bed-and-breakfast): a room in a private home or apartment. Pension Niebuhr in Berlin (Chapter 11) is a good big-city pension. (That’s because the hotel often gives the agent a discount in exchange for steering his business toward that hotel.) Reserving a room through the hotel’s toll-free number also may result in a lower rate than calling the hotel directly. You sometimes see these rates printed on the fire/emergency-exit diagrams posted on the back of your door. or you may have to share the bathroom. you can also use the kitchen. Perhaps the best way to avoid paying the rack rate is surprisingly simple: Just ask for a cheaper or discounted rate. In smaller towns. Keep in mind that many pensions operate on a cash-only basis. although some of these properties do offer special rates for longer stays. Your best bet is to call both the local number and the toll-free number and see which one gives you a better deal. If you travel in the high season (Apr–June. You may luck out and find a place with a private bathroom. Sept. On the other hand. In Germany. Hotels are happy to charge you the rack rate. but you generally won’t have a phone.) But . often advertised with a simple sign: Zimmer frei (room available). you’ll probably pay more. prices are higher in large cities. You may be pleasantly surprised. so you may or may not have a TV. pensions. Some half a million beds are available in private homes across the country. the central reservations number may not know about discount rates at specific locations. and in some cases. and Dec). Amenities vary from place to place. with breakfast included in the price. Breakfast always is included in the price.

Travelocity posts unvarnished customer reviews and ranks its properties according to the AAA rating system. AARP. This competitiveness can be a boon to consumers who have the patience and time to shop for and compare the online sites for good deals — but shop they must. so the rates quoted in this book may be different from the actual rate you receive when you make your reservation. Hyatt. Another booking site. Travelweb (www. These Internet hotel agencies have multiplied in mind-boggling numbers of late. competing for the business of millions of consumers surfing for accommodations around the world. TravelAxe (www. many of the major sites are undergoing improvements in service and ease of use. a good portion of which get misplaced in the shuffle. see the information about choosing a tour package in Chapter 6. An excellent free program. getting a confirmation number and making a printout of any online booking transactions are good practices. travelers have arrived at the hotel only to be told that they have no reservation. Be sure to mention membership in AAA. Also reliable are because prices can vary considerably from site to site. Expedia offers a long list of special deals and virtual tours or photos of available rooms so you can see what you’re paying 8: Booking Your Accommodations 87 even within a given season. frequent-flier and Quikbook. including the taxes and service charges. And keep in mind that hotels at the top of a site’s listing may be there for no other reason than that they paid money to get the placement.travelweb. You never know when the affiliation may be worth a few euros off your room rate. and Starwood chains) and is therefore plugged directly into the hotels’ reservations systems — unlike independent online agencies that have to fax or e-mail reservation requests to the hotel. is partly owned by the hotels it represents (including the Hilton. For more tips about how to get the best room rate. Surfing the Web for hotel deals Shopping online for hotels generally is done one of two ways: by booking through the hotel’s own Web site or through an independent booking agency (or a fare-service agency like Priceline). .com). More than once. can help you search multiple hotel sites at once — even ones you may never have heard of — and conveniently lists the total price of the room. In the meantime. Of the “big three” sites. To be fair. and Expedia soon will be able to plug directly into the reservations systems of many hotel chains. and any corporate rewards programs you can think of when you call to book. room prices are subject to change without notice.

Some lodging sites specialize in a particular type of accommodations. Travelocity. ߜ Landidyll (www. such as B&Bs. it sometimes has rooms at hotels that are sold out. . many hotels stick Priceline guests in their least desirable rooms.biddingfortravel. the following Web sites will help you with booking hotel rooms online: ߜ Web site ( ߜ www. Note: Some hotels don’t provide loyalty-program credits or points or other frequent-stay amenities when you book a room through opaque online ߜ InnSite (www. For Priceline. and then e-mail the innkeeper if you have questions. On the downside. check prices and availability. You can find a B&B in Berlin or the Black before bidding on a hotel room on Priceline. Although the major travel booking sites (Frommer’s. you may be better off using a site devoted primarily to lodging. and the fee is provides B&B listings for inns in dozens of countries around the globe. The following list includes sites that enable you to make online reservations at hotels throughout Germany: ߜ Hotel Discounts (www.landidyll. Priceline. it features a fairly up-to-date list of hotels that Priceline uses in major cities. Orbitz. Priceline is much better at getting five-star lodging for three-star prices than at finding anything at the bottom of the scale. Call its toll-free number (% 800-364-0801) if you want more options than the Web site lists online. Priceline is even better for booking hotels than it is for booking flights. you pay upfront. another good site if you can read German. Expedia.travelweb. Because the site prebooks blocks of ߜ www. Expedia.88 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In addition to Travelocity. focuses on family hotels all across Germany that are managed according to ecological principles and have gastronomic is a site that you may want to use if you can read In the opaque Web site category.innsite.hotelonline. Go to the BiddingForTravel. ߜ Hotel Online (www.tripadvisor. and Hotwire. including Germany. It features independent hotels throughout Germany and northern Europe that are a good value for your lists bargain rates at hotels throughout Germany. you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel before offering up your money. look at images of the rooms. which you won’t find on the more mainstream booking services. You often find properties not listed with more general online travel agencies. and Orbitz) offer hotel ߜ www.

Its Click-It Weekends. They’re usually has about 450 hotels worldwide. talk to the front desk. bars. ߜ Always ask for a corner room. . including Germany. quieter. ߜ Inquire about the location of the restaurants. updated each Monday.travelweb. ߜ Travelweb (www. offer weekend deals at many leading chains. and discos in the hotel — all sources of annoying noise.000 hotels worldwide. You can check for special discounted and weekend rates at many great German hotels. if it is. if you aren’t happy with your room when you lists more than 16. Reserving the best room After you make your reservation. they should be happy to accommodate you. You can book almost 90 percent of these accommodations online. and focuses on chains such as Hyatt and Hilton. asking a few more pointed questions can go a long way toward making sure you get the best room in the house. request a room away from the renovation work. Finally. and have more windows and light than standard rooms. including first-class and resort hotels throughout Germany. and they don’t always cost more. If they have another room. within reason. ߜ Ask whether the hotel is renovating.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 89 ߜ SRS-Worldhotels (www.

dragging them thousands of miles away to a country where a different language is spoken may seem like an insurmountable challenge.cometogermany. But family travel can be immensely rewarding. In this chapter. Parents may want to take their children along on trips. from toddlers to teens. Jewish visitors may want to visit Holocaust memorials and worship in a synagogue.germany-tourism. is a challenge — no doubt about it. People with disabilities need to ensure that sites on their itineraries are barrierfree. Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families Germany is a pretty kid-friendly country. . If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning. but traveling anywhere with Kinder (kin-der. The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. Gays and lesbians may want to know about welcoming places and events.Chapter 9 Catering to Special Needs or Interests In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling with your kids ᮣ Discovering discounts and special tours for seniors ᮣ Locating wheelchair-accessible attractions ᮣ Finding lesbigay communities and special events ᮣ Tracing Germany’s Jewish history M any of today’s travelers have special interests or needs. de or www. children). Seniors may like to take advantage of discounts or tours designed especially for them. with its section on family travel is a good place to begin researching your trip. giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of I offer advice and resources for all these travelers.

high-toned restaurants in Germany are not particularly welcoming toward young children. For information on passport requirements for children. in Germany you don’t see many families dining in expensive restaurants. including Burger King and McDonald’s. Smaller which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families. may present problems.S. always check to see whether the attraction offers a money-saving family ticket. these types of arrangements are withyourkids. and the staff can be less than welcoming to children who are not well behaved. restaurants. local restaurants. Kids younger than 6 almost always get in for free. You won’t.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 91 You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Forum ( . Berlin. you can keep costs down by eating at lowkey. TravelWithYourKids (www. Zeroing in on these places can help you plan your trip more quickly and easily. Munich.familytravelforum.thefamilytravelfiles. and children younger than 6 travel free. I use it to highlight hotels. even when the place welcomes kids. see Chapter 10. In fact. children ages 6 to 11 pay half the adult fare. The same is true for public transportation: Low-priced family or group tickets usually are available. The menus aren’t geared to the tastes of U. or bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs). such as cramped rooms and shared toilet facilities. deals. and Family Travel Files (www. an award-winning site that offers travel features. If you’re traveling with children.familytravelnetwork. In larger cities. Look for the Kid Friendly icon as you flip through this book. and midsize German cities have American-style fast-food places. Admission prices for attractions throughout Germany are reduced for children ages 6 to 14. however. and attractions that are particularly family friendly. On trains. which considerably reduces the admission price for a group of two adults and two or more children. Ask questions before you reserve. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. The establishment may bring in an extra cot or let you share a larger room. and tips. find these food chains in smaller villages and towns. Locating family-friendly businesses Most German hotels happily accommodate your family if you reserve your rooms in advance and make the staff aware that you’re traveling with kids. Family Travel Network (www. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. Younger teens traveling in Berlin and Munich may want to check out the Hard Rock Cafe in those cities.

however. as they’re called in Germany. less-expensive pensions and guesthouses — have elevators. The staircases in some places are a test for anyone with luggage. In the evening. Carrying an ID with proof of age can pay off in all these situations. . You can spur your kids’ interest (and your own) by buying a German language tape or checking one out from the library. listening to the tape. However. But you can’t take Junior along on this special evening. Hiring a baby sitter in Germany What you really need is an exciting evening at the opera and a romantic late dinner with a glass of fine German wine. What are your options? Ask your hotel staff whether they can recommend a local baby-sitting service. Note: In Germany. the selection may not include as many presweetened varieties as in the United States. and familiarizing themselves with the sounds of the German language and learning at least a few words. be aware that not all hotels — particularly smaller. bear in mind that most German museums do not translate their signage and texts into English. even if the reduction isn’t posted. everyone can spend an hour together. you may find that some discounts are available only for German or EU (European Union) residents. sausage) is 100 percent meat with no filler. a trip to a museum may try the patience of those children who can’t understand what they’re reading.92 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany The best of the Wurst Your time in Germany may be a good opportunity to introduce your kids to some dishes that they’ve never tried. kids can choose from a selection of cereals at most buffet breakfasts in hotels. Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors Germany won’t present any problems for you if you’re a senior who gets around easily. Most of the hotels marked with a Kid Friendly icon in this book can help arrange baby-sitting. Being a senior may entitle you to some terrific travel bargains. when you plan your trip. For something more familiar. Therefore. ask whether you’ll have access to an elevator or a Fahrstuhl (far-shtool). many of the top museums offer audio guides in English. Germany’s ever-present Wurst (voorst. When you reserve a hotel. Always ask. If not. such as lower prices for German Rail Passes and reduced admission at museums and other attractions. When considering museums.

. and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers. The price includes airfare.intrav. by Joann Rattner Heilman. restricted to travelers 50 and older. 601 E MA 02110-1941. % 877-4268056.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 93 The sources in the following list can provide information about discounts and other benefits for seniors: ߜ AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons. INTRAV (% 800-456-8100. ߜ Elderhostel (75 Federal St. including discounts on US Airways flights to Frankfurt and Munich from several U. www. . These courses are value-packed. Boston. cities and discounts on escorted tours from Globus and Cosmos. www. Elderhostel (% 877-426-8056) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries around the offers member discounts on car rentals and hotels. Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon). and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill).” and “The Rhine and Mosel River Valleys.eldertreks. available from Grand Circle Travel (% 800-221-2610 or 617-350-7500. major tour operators offering trips to Germany. ElderTreks (% 800741-7956. meals. NW. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www. www. www. AARP offers members a wide range of is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature.” “Treasures of the Elbe River offers package deals for the 50-plus market. offers small-group tours to off-thebeaten-path or adventure-travel locations. With a annual membership of around $13 (anyone 50 or older can join).elderhostel. and insurance.S. travel50andbeyond. with trips around the world that include guided safaris. private-jet adventures. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market.gct.” ߜ Grand Circle Travel (347 Congress % 866-687-2277. www. Boston. Washington.. not specifically seniors. accommodations.gct. mostly of the tour-bus variety but also including river cruises along the Rhine and Popular Germany offerings in 2006 included “Heartland of Classical Music. MA 02210. And you’ll be glad to know that you won’t be graded. polar expeditions. discerning offers people 55 and older a variety of university-based education programs in Berlin and throughout Germany. DC 20049. tuition. www. hassle-free ways to learn while traveling. % 800221-2610 or 617-350-7500. 101 Tips for Mature Travelers.

com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency. ߜ Mobility International USA (% 541-343-1284. afb. specialized accommodations.94 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities The German word for disabled is behindert (bee-hin-dert). and a newsletter. www. % 020/7250-3222.” containing information on trip planning. 12 City Forum. London EC1V 8AF. the community Web site iCan (www.germany-tourism.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities. www. fax: 212-725-8253.sath. www. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www. and transportation abroad. In fact. ߜ The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH. with its section on travel for the and Open World Magazine. Here are some other helpful resources in the United States: ߜ The Moss Rehab Hospital (www. Locating resources The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. de or www.cometogermany. which publishes vacation “fact packs. org. published by SATH. ߜ AirAmbulanceCard. Survival Strategies for Going Abroad. travel insurance.mossresourcenet. tour publishes A World of Options.radar. and companion services.miusa. fax: 020/7250-0212. British travelers with disabilities may want to contact RADAR (Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation. 250 City travel/index. vehicle rentals. a 658-page book of resources that covers everything from biking trips to scuba ߜ The American Foundation for the Blind (% 800-232-5463. Germany is one of the more advanced countries in Europe when it comes to accessibility for disabled travelers. .org) provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations. travel agents.icanonline. because more options and resources are available than ever before.. www. Over the Rainbow. A disability needn’t stop anybody from traveling. % provides general information on accessible travel. is a good place to begin researching your access guides.

under “Reiseinfos” (Travel Information). You can reserve your seat in advance and get information about traveling with a disability by calling the special Deutsche Bahn number for disabled travelers at % 01805/512-512. www. On the Web site. Kirchfeldstrasse 149.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 95 If you can read (click on “Mobilität&Service” and “Handicap”).de) is the central organization in the country for all inquiries concerning barrier-free travel. For many wheelchair-bound travelers.seunlimitedtravel. Thanks to its comprehensive accessibility. an escorted tour is a necessity. Many hotels in Berlin. Most of the older and less expensive pensions and guesthouses don’t have elevators. or 605-366-0202. www. you may want to use one of these resources: ߜ Nationale Koordinationsstelle Tourismus für Alle (NatKo.S. pronounced roll-shtool) presents unique challenges. Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair) Traveling in a wheelchair (called a Rollstuhl. Some 385 train stations throughout the country have lifting aids or mobile ramps. and accessible activities. or they may not be wide .com) ߜ S E Unlimited Travel (% 800-552-9798 in the has information on the accessibility of public buildings throughout Germany. % 0211/33-68-001. ߜ The Web site You-Too (www. and Canada. and the rest of Germany (more in the western part than the east) have rooms for the disabled (these tend to be in larger. Not all U-Bahn (subway) stations have wheelchair access. public buses are generally wheelchair accessible. The international airports in Munich and Frankfurt are wheelchair accessible. But others want the adventures of being on their own. Munich. including free seating reservations for travelers in wheelchairs. Several organizations offer tours designed to meet the needs of travelers with disabilities. disabilitytravel. bahn. you can find special offers and a list of German tour operators offering special tours and travel opportunities. fax: 605-334-0000. fax: 0211/33-68-760. www. natko. in larger cities. www. Germany offers both options. Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) offers transportation service for the national Tourism Coordination Agency for All People. accessible accommodations. Tour operators with trips to Germany include ߜ Accessible Journeys (% 800-846-4537 or 610-521-0339. 40215 Düsseldorf. You can also find information (in English) for disabled travelers on its Web site. more modern hotels).

Hamburg. Find information on the Web at www. lesbian). call first). If you’re interested in gliding down the Rhine and Mosel rivers. in small towns and large. gay culture. Ask about this issue before you reserve. celebrates its Christopher Street Day and Parade around the third weekend in June. the Köln-Düsseldorfer (KD) line has wheelchair-accessible boats (see Chapter 19 for more about KD and Rhine journeys). dance clubs. and gay tourism. Although not all restaurants provide wheelchair ramps. Celebrating gay pride in Germany Every summer.” earlier in this section). ߜ Munich celebrates Christopher Street Day in mid-July. Also keep in mind that in older. and stages its famous Loveparade in mid-July. If you are schwul (shwool. gay) or lesbisch (lez-bish. or use one of the travel agencies that specializes in travel for people with disabilities (see “Locating resources. but gay life flourishes outside the big cities. parades and special events celebrate gay pride. stores. Berlin. historical areas. all that matters is that two (or more) individuals travel together. cafes. Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians Germany is one of the most “developed” countries in the world when it comes to gay pride. . and community centers exists throughout the country. Larger theaters and performing-arts venues are often wheelchair accessible. most restaurants are happy to accommodate people with disabilities. although calling ahead to make arrangements and getting directions to special entrances and/or elevators always is a good idea. Lesbigay travelers may want to time their visits to coincide with these big festivals: ߜ Berlin holds its annual Gay & Lesbian Street Festival in mid-June. bars. you’ll find plenty to do in Deutschland. too. Gay and lesbian couples (or friends) qualify for family tickets on public transportation in many Germany cities.96 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany enough for a wheelchair. Most of the top sights in the country are wheelchair accessible. Munich. too (again. or Gruppen (group) tickets. you have to deal with cobblestones. With most looking at vineyards and castles. A network of gay or gay-friendly restaurants. and Cologne all have large gay communities.

ߜ Cologne’s Christopher Street Weekend usually is the first weekend in One of the best all-purpose gay sites — albeit the Web site is in German — for lesbigay travelers planning a trip to This site is a destination service provider for international gay travelers. ߜ Unfortunately. You can select a city in Germany and find out pertinent travel-related information. is a good place to begin researching your trip. ߜ Hamburg celebrates with a Gay Pride Parade and Festival around June 8 to 10. The following are just a few of the other Web sites you may want to check out as you begin to plan your trip to Germany: ߜ PinkPassport (www. Germany seems to fall below the radar screen of most gay tour operators (too bad. Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators If you want to keep your hard-earned travel money pink. Researching German lesbigay life on the Web The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. For information on the nearest IGLTA travel agent and gay-friendly resources in Germany. this site enables you to access a lesbigay guide for each city you want to because Berlin is such a great destination for gay tours). contact IGLTA (% 800-448-8550.cometogermany. ߜ Frankfurt’s Christopher Street Weekend takes place around the third weekend in July.pinkpassport. www. leading up to and during World War II. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) maintains a worldwide network of gay and lesbian travelagent professionals who can help you plan your trip.stadt.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 97 Pride and politics Perhaps some of the openness of gay life in Germany today has to do with the murderous antihomosexual policies of the Nazis.”) . untold thousands of homosexuals were arrested and sent to their deaths in labor camps. That may explain why German gays and lesbians today are so politically active and determined not to tolerate discrimination. with its section on gay and lesbian travel. (By the way. Stadt means “city. you can use a gay travel service. Between 1933 and 1945. de or

near For assistance in planning your itinerary. near Munich. www.98 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ Specific city Web or www. synagogues have been restored. Several places are dedicated to remembering the Jewish experience in this and memorials erected.munich. in large part because many Jewish people from the former Soviet Union are choosing to live in Germany. I can’t even begin to scratch the surface of this huge and sensitive issue. and one of the few that’s actually growing. Today. the largest in Europe.gayweb. Special and very emotional issues confront Jewish visitors to Germany.gaykoeln. The most moving memorials are at Dachau (Chapter 15). Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany In this and www. Another is the Holocaust memorial. www. when systematic and request a copy of Germany for the Jewish www. and Buchenwald (Chapter 14) The Germany you visit today is a democratic federal republic sensitive to the past. Try the following Web sites for information on specific cities: www. . Throughout the banishment. Large Jewish communities flourished in cities throughout Germany until the Nazi era. completed in Berlin in 2005 between the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz. contact the German National Tourist Office ( This free booklet presents an overview of Jewish history and lists recommended places to visit and what to see. Germany’s Jewish population is the third-largest in Western Europe. Throughout the country. Jewish life in Germany dates back hundreds of Jews from all levels of society contributed to German culture. and extermination policies created horrors that are almost beyond or www. One of the most remarkable is the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) in Berlin (Chapter 12).cometogermany. numbering around 70. seizure of property and assets.

either check the U.state. or a major post office. you must have a valid passport to enter Germany. D Getting a Passport A valid passport is the only legal form of identification accepted around the world.S.Chapter 10 Taking Care of the Remaining Details In This Chapter ᮣ Obtaining a passport ᮣ Taking care of your health: Travel and medical insurance ᮣ Communicating via cellphone and e-mail ᮣ Dealing with airline security measures o you have an up-to-date passport? Have you taken steps to meet your health needs while on your trip? Are you wondering how to use a cellphone or access e-mail while in Germany? This chapter gives you the information you need. but the process takes some time. http://travel. To find your regional passport office. passport office.S. You can’t cross an international border without or call the National Passport Information Center (% 877-487-2778) for automated information. State Department at http://travel. Getting a passport is easy. state. Applying for a U. Australia.S. State Department passport Web site. passport If you’re applying for a first-time passport. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world.html. . Complete a passport application in person at a U. or Canada.S. follow these steps: 1. If you’re a citizen of the United States. a federal. go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U. or probate passport.

a passport is valid for five years and costs $82. You often find businesses that take these photos near a passport office. and the United Kingdom: ߜ Australians can visit a local post office or passport office. 3. or log on to www. and paying the appropriate fees. Ottawa. 4. but they must meet the same requirements for all passport photographs. Submit two identical passport-size photos. ߜ Canadians can pick up applications at passport offices throughout Canada. but applications must be submitted in person. Forms can be completed and printed online at the Web you can download passport applications from the U. measuring 2 inches by 2 inches in size.state. www. Canada. Present a certified birth certificate as proof of citizenship. Applying for other passports The following list offers more information for citizens of Australia. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport. com) is a service that can expedite the processing of your first-time passport application. state or military ID. call the Australia State Passport Office (% 131-232 toll-free from Australia). In addition. State Department passport Web site ( for details on how and where to apply. Ontario K1A 0G3 (% 800-567-6868.passports.americanpassport.100 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany 2. at post offices. call the National Passport Agency (% 202-647-0518). you can renew the passport by mail for $67. For those 15 and younger. but it can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). Using this service. For general information.ppt. Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade. Pay the fee. You can also . Note: You can’t use a strip from a photo-vending machine because the pictures aren’t identical. the digital photographs must have a continuous-tone image that looks very photolike. You may submit digital photos that have been printed on your printer at home. New Zealand. Whether you’re applying in person or by mail. or Social Security card also is a good idea. a passport is valid for ten years and costs $97. www. American Passport Express (% 800-455-5166. If you have a passport in your current name that was issued within the past 15 years and you were older than 16 when it was issued. For people 16 and older. processing normally takes three weeks. grainy-looking photos composed of visible dots are not acceptable. you can receive your passport in as little as 24 hours.gc. and from the central Passport Office. Bringing along your driver’s license.

contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (% 0870-521-0410. For information. to travel to other EU countries. Make sure. carrying the document with you is a good idea. However. The cost of travel insurance varies widely. and the type of trip you’re taking. a convenient and often cost-effective way for the traveler to obtain insurance.” a list of companies considered high-risk by Travel Guard International (www. if you already have a passport. Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance Three kinds of travel insurance are available: trip-cancellation depending on the cost and length of your trip. Some experts suggest you avoid buying insurance from .passports. contact the Passports Office at % 0800225-050 in New Zealand or 04-474-8100. or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. though. and lost-luggage Applications must be accompanied by two identical passport-size photographs and proof of Canadian citizenship. however. need only an identity card. as many travelers discovered who tried to cancel their trips in October 2001 because they were wary of flying. www. Processing takes five to ten days if you apply in person. or about three weeks by mail. Here is my advice on all three: ߜ Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears. not a passport. such as Germany.) A good resource is “Travel Guard Alerts. but expect to pay between 5 percent and 8 percent of the vacation itself.ukpa.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 101 download an application form from the Passport Office Web site. that the tour company is a reputable one. as a member of the European Union. medical insurance. For more information. or log on to www. your age and health. ߜ New Zealanders can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the Passports Office Web site. Protect yourself further by paying for the insurance with a credit card — by law. Note: Many tour operators include insurance in the cost of the trip or can arrange insurance policies through a partnering provider. if you have to go home early. ߜ United Kingdom residents. consumers can get their money back on goods and services not received if they report the loss within 60 days after the charge is listed on their credit-card Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for insured.

checked baggage is covered for up to $2. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage.500 per ticketed passenger. www. . travelinsured. money. or Travelex Insurance Services (% 888457-4602. you may want to buy travel medical insurance. com).worldwide assistance. portions of international trips). www. try MEDEX Assistance (% 410-4536300. for general information on TAI’s services.medexassist. www. On domestic flights. because many valuables (including books. Travel Guard International (% 800-826-4919. ߜ Lost-luggage insurance is not necessary for most travelers. immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport. www. once If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability. and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. you must report delayed. or lost baggage within four hours of arrival. contact TAI’s service provider. For more information. For most airlines. and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront before reimbursing you only after you return home. www. If you require additional medical insurance. get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travelinsurance or Travel Assistance International (TAI) (% 800-821-2828. baggage coverage is limited to approximately $ Don’t buy insurance at the airport. because it’s usually overpriced. Travel Insured International (% Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the tour or cruise company you’re traveling with. www. For travel overseas. detailing the luggage contents. damaged. Worldwide Assistance Services (% 800-777-8710. most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront and send you a refund only after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance company.travelassistance. find out whether your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy. or buy the BagTrak product from Travel Guard (% 800-826-4919. directly to your house or destination free of charge. contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (% 866-807-3982. If your luggage is lost. most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide guard.accessamerica. Even if your plan covers overseas treatment. www.travelguard.07 per pound. up to approximately $635 per checked bag. saying it’s better to buy from a third-party insurer than to put all your money in one place. On international flights (including U. As a safety net. The airlines are required to deliver

For conditions such as may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. pronounced artst. If you have a serious and/or chronic illness.istm. 416-652-0137. cdc. talk to your doctor before leaving on a trip.) A pharmacy in Germany is called an Apotheke (pronounced ah-po-tay-kuh).tripprep. . and prescriptions for more (in generic. go to any pharmacy. form) if you worry that you’ll run out. For information on purchasing additional medical insurance for your trip. if you need to carry medications with you onboard. wear a MedicAlert identification tag (% 888-633-4298. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (% 716-754-4883 or. ask the concierge or hotelkeeper to recommend a local doctor.S. diabetes. iamat. and they take turns staying open all night and on weekends. com. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www. A notice will be posted in the window providing the address and telephone number of the closest on-duty pharmacy. make sure the box or container has the pharmacy’s label with your name on it. which immediately alerts doctors to your condition and gives them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. www. The word for hospital is Krankenhaus (pronounced kronk-in-house). medicalert. you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. (Arzt. is the German word for a medical doctor. www. Pharmacies are open regular shopping hours. For domestic trips.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 103 Staying Healthy When You Travel Getting sick will ruin your vacation. in Canada. see the previous section. In a life-threatening situation. not brand-name. dial % 112 (a free call anywhere in Germany). so I strongly advise against it (of provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Bring all your medications with you. If you fall ill while traveling. sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners.) At night and on weekends. If you have an emergency and need a prescription filled after-hours or on weekends. (Remember: Current airline security regulations do not allow you to carry on liquids in containers larger than 3 ounces. most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. the bugs weren’t listening to me any more than they probably listen to you). last time I checked. you can call the Ärtzlicher Notdienst (Medical Emergency Service) listed in the telephone directory. or heart problems. The Web site www. the number for general emergencies. For travel abroad. The U. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (% for tips about travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and lists of local English-speaking doctors.

Having an unlocked phone enables you to install a cheap. Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Getting an already-locked phone unlocked can be a complicated process. The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles). a big. If your cellphone is on a GSM system. seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. per-minute charges can be high — usually $1 to $1. from Andorra to Uganda. Motorola. but it can be done. only a limited number of carriers use GSM. not all phones work on all networks. you either need to have a friend or relative in Germany purchase the card for you or buy one in North America before your departure. in Canada. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. phone won’t work in Germany without a special chip. and renting a phone in Germany. Using a cellphone outside the U.S. you can purchase a prepaid German SIM card with call credit already incorporated and easily add more talk time to the SIM card if needed. just call your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to use the phone with a local provider. That’s why it’s important to buy an “unlocked” world phone from the get-go. In the U. Unfortunately. Although you can rent a phone from any number of German sites. Collecting e-mail is fairly easy in Germany: If you can’t do it at your hotel. the staff will be able to direct you to the nearest cybercafe. prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in Germany. If you have an unlocked phone. In this section. or Samsung models are so equipped — you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe.104 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail The cheapest and easiest way to call home from Germany. For many. you’ll be asked for proof of residency. including kiosks at airports .S.S. keep in mind that your U. although possible. if you want to purchase a German SIM card in Germany. (Show your phone to the salesperson. I’ve found.) You’ll get a local phone number — and much. renting a phone is a good idea.50 in western Europe. Many cellphone operators sell “locked” phones that restrict you from using any removable computer memory phone chip (called a SIM card) other than the ones they supply. and you have a world-capable multiband phone — many Sony Ericsson. so you need to check with your carrier. However. is to use a prepaid phone card and the hotel phone. costs a lot. For that reason. I provide general information on using cellphones and sending or receiving e-mail in Germany. If you’re accustomed to using a cellphone. much lower calling rates.

independent businesses — two places to start looking are at www. And most public libraries around the world offer Internet access free or for a small charge. after all. EST. plus airtime fees of at least a dollar a minute. www. Give them your itinerary. Although no definitive directory exists for cybercafes — they are. Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (% Some business centers in large luxury hotels are free for guests. and tourist information offices around the and RoadPost (% 888-290-1606 or 905-2725665. www. The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price mean they need to be avoided whenever possible.htm. You’ll usually pay $40 to $50 per week. But even if you don’t have a computer. If you’re traveling to Europe. using your own laptop — or even a personal digital assistant (PDA) or electronic organizer with a modem — gives you the most flexibility. The bottom line: Shop around. Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their and www. . a mobile phone is called a Handy (pronounced as it’s spelled). InTouch also will advise you for free on whether your existing phone will work overseas. where local phone-rental agencies often bill in local currency and may not let you take the phone to another country. Of course. most youth hostels nowadays have at least one computer with Internet access. and 4 p. Aside from formal cybercafes. simply call % 703222-7161 between 9 a. which can save you big bucks. make sure the phone works. I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. Phone rental isn’t cheap. give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need.cybercaptive.intouchglobal. That way you can give loved ones and business associates your new In Germany.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 105 and at car-rental agencies. Finding a city in Germany that doesn’t have a few cybercafes is hard to do.m. or go to http://intouch global. but others charge high rates to go online. you still can access your e-mail and even your office computer from cybercafes. Accessing the Internet away from home You have any number of ways to check your e-mail and access the Internet on the road. though. These kiosks. and take the phone wherever you go — especially helpful for overseas trips through several countries. local rental companies often offer free incoming calls within their home countries. hotel lobbies. which you’ll also see in shopping

net/ index. or a phone line. just set yourself up on a nice couch in the lobby. (followed by the U. and Japan).000 Starbucks coffee shops nationwide. use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe computer to access the GoToMyPC T-Mobile Hotspot (http://hotspot. through a plan offered by one of several commercial companies that have made wireless service available in airports. Best of all. If you need to access files on your office computer. To locate these free hotspots. Going Wireless If you’re bringing your own computer. you may want to open a free. Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail. Mac owners have their own networking technology called Apple AirPort. . prices are likely to get even more competitive.cgi/WirelessCommunities.11b/WiFi card (around $50) into your but in general you pay around $30 a month for limited access — and as more and more companies jump on the wireless have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. look into a service called GoToMyPC (www.personaltelco. cafes.11b wireless Ethernet connection). the current buzzword in computer access is WiFi (wireless fidelity).gotomypc.ipass. you can use the free mail2web service (www. and more and more hotels. and retailers are signing on as wireless hotspots where you can get highspeed connection without cable Some places also provide free wireless networks in cities around the world. The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere — even a cybercafe — provided your target PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). If your ISP doesn’t have such an interface.S. You sign up for wireless access service much as you do cellphone service.mail2web. with a variety of monthly. The companies’ pricing policies can be byzantine. For more flexibility. Boingo ( serves up wireless connections at more than 1. hotel lobbies. you can plug an 802. but if you’re worried about hackers. com) providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. primarily in the U. iPass (www.wayport. ask your Internet service provider (ISP) whether it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account. Many laptops sold during the last year have built-in WiFi capability (an 802. If you have an older computer. The service offers top-quality security. per-connection. but Hotmail has severe spam problems. you don’t need to be staying at the Four Seasons to use the hotel’s network. networking hardware.boingo. (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option.t-mobile.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account automatically. and coffee and Wayport (www.K. go to www. and per-minute to view and reply to your home e-mail.106 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany To retrieve your e-mail.

you can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from your home computer.) The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U.S. and how much it will cost. you will need to show your passport at check-in). but they do for international flights to most countries. and sometimes even the gate. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. Check your ISP’s Web site or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home. www. Bring a current. (Children younger than 18 do not need government-issued photo IDs for domestic flights. online check-in is available for domestic flights only. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider. you’ll be fine as long as you arrive at the airport one hour before a domestic flight and two hours before an international flight. Generally. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. if you show up late. enabling you to go online by simply placing a local call. government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport (for international flights. airports.i2roam. a spare phone cord. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline’s Web site. major ISPs have local access numbers around the world. Wherever you go. For a list of iPass providers. and you’ll be required to show your passport at that time. you’ll be . go to www. tell an airline employee and she’ll probably whisk you to the front of the line. bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters. And E-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. which then tells you how to set up your computer for your destination. the iPass network has dial-up numbers in most of the world’s countries.S. Keeping Up with Airline Security With the federalization of airport security. If you’re traveling outside the reach of your ISP. If you have an E-ticket. and many hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable. the security checkpoint.” One solid provider is i2roam (% 866-811-6209 or 920-235-0475. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in.) If you’re using a kiosk at the bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. In and click on “Individual Purchase. most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems. if you’re flying on to Germany you’ll have to use the “oldfashioned” airport check-in at the airline’s ticket counter. (At present.ipass. security procedures at U. and printing out your boarding pass — and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so. and a spare Ethernet network cable — or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 107 If WiFi isn’t available. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat. accessing your reservation. Call your hotel in advance to see what your options are.

because explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate. Curbside check-in also is a good way to avoid lines.108 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany able to do so using most airline kiosks. such as a purse. a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners.travelsentry. as long as it has a laptop in it. or laptop bag. but some doozies remain. The general rule is that sharp things are out. the airline will provide a wheelchair. plus a personal item. For more information on the locks. Bring food in your carryon instead of checking it. are allowed one carry-on bag. If you’ve got metallic body parts. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks. You can now purchase luggage locks that enable screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary. and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine — but security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system. nail clippers are okay.brookstone. check its Web site (www. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security. These locks are approved by the TSA and can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag. tell an airline employee. Security-checkpoint lines are getting shorter. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your public/index.S. Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. Look for Travel Sentry–certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www. a few airlines still ban curbside check-in. call before you go. briefcase. it’s still considered a personal item. but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items.jsp) for details. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time. Travelers in the U. except for folks escorting disabled passengers or children.tsa. com). Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. . however. for some reason) for bombs. visit www.

Part III Northern and Eastern Germany .

is the focus of Chapter 13. In Chapter 14. city of Goethe and one of Germany’s cultural jewels. with so many historic buildings that UNESCO recognizes the city as a World Heritage Site. a busy business city where the “peaceful revolution” began. and finding the best hotels and restaurants. . I devote Chapter 12 to exploring the largest and most exciting city in Germany. I introduce you to the best places to visit in this newly opened region: Dresden. the country’s “new” capital. or Bremen. Since reunification in 1990. In Chapter 14. . . I tell you all about Hamburg. All three of these cities were members of the powerful Hanseatic League that ruled the seas and dominated trade in northern Europe for hundreds of years. From Hamburg you can make an easy side trip to beautiful Lübeck. and location on the Elbe River. getting around. historic panache. istory has left its mark throughout northern and eastern Germany. with its superb museums. I devote two chapters to Berlin.H In this part . and Weimar. eastern Germany has been in the midst of a major building and rebuilding boom. bordering the Baltic and the North Sea. Northern Germany. full of proud reminders of its seafaring past. and nowhere more so than in Berlin. Leipzig. the region’s largest city and greatest port. Chapter 11 fills you in on all the Berlin basics: getting there. I also tell you about visiting the Thuringian Forest and taking a boat trip into the scenic region known as Saxon Switzerland.

have always been a breed apart.. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin.” B .S. even as the city reinvents itself yet again. and Russian sectors. artistic brilliance. Berlin has a kind of inexhaustible energy. you see a city in transition. gives the city an added bite. for my money.Chapter 11 Settling Into Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Berlin ᮣ Traveling from the airport into the city ᮣ Orienting yourself to the neighborhoods ᮣ Getting around by subway. Now. during the Berlin Airlift of 1948. with the wall down and Deutschland reunited. Berliners. endless political upheaval. You feel a sense of immediacy in Berlin because everything is happening at once — past. a fizz and a flair and a drive that you find nowhere else in Germany. or raunchy as you want them to be. You can dive into Berlin on many levels. both triumph and tragedy. cultured. By the end of World War II (WWII).” That old song lyric meaning “Berlin always remains Berlin” still holds true. perhaps because they’ve been through so much. train. Berlin was split in two. This city has seen it all — Prussian power. and I would urge anyone visiting Germany to spend at least a couple of days here. and future meet and meld all over the place. laced with sharp-edged humor and sarcastic irreverence. In many ways it’s a new city — and yet. and Nazi terror — and survived to tell the tale. much of Berlin was reduced to smoldering rubble. and for almost 30 years. even if you don’t speak German. physically and politically. Their cosmopolitan live-and-let-live attitude. When you’re in Berlin. part of the reason why a visit here is so intriguing. British. The city then was divided into U. Your experiences can be as sophisticated. food and supplies had to be flown in because the Soviets blockaded the city. and bus ᮣ Choosing your hotel ᮣ Picking a good restaurant ᮣ Finding a cafe or brewpub erlin is. But. Berlin once again is the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany. the most exciting city in Europe. Later. The wall went up in 1961. present. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin.

www. The X9 also goes to the Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). From there you can change to the subway and reach any destination. you find currency-exchange windows and a small branch of the tourist information center (no phone.S. which travels down Kurfürstendamm and takes about 30 minutes. depending on what airline you use. another express Four buses run from the airport into central Berlin. you can take a bus or taxi. or car.50). Berlin’s main and most convenient airport. the regular two-zone A/B fare. ߜ Bus X9. Buses arrive outside the airport terminal. Berlin has two airports. By plane Continental and Delta are the only U.) where you can pick up free city-transit maps and general-interest brochures and buy a bus ticket into town.m. At the train station.112 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Getting There You can arrive in Germany’s capital and largest city by plane. and Unter den Linden in Mitte. train. see “Getting Around Berlin. On the bus. Friedrichstrasse. The facility recently was revamped to make it more passenger-friendly. ߜ A taxi ride to central Berlin (east or west) costs 16€ to 20€ ($20– $25) and takes about 20 minutes. connects to the Jakob-Kaiser-Platz U-Bahn (underground train) station. Delta flies from New York JFK to Berlin Tegel).” later in this chapter. (For information on public transportation. you have to change planes in Frankfurt or another European city. use euro coins (no bills) to buy your ticket from the tickets for each of them cost 2.m. the “new” center of Berlin. To get into central Berlin from Tegel. Arriving at Berlin International Airport in Tegel Tegel (TXL) airport (% 0180/5000-186. Berlin’s main tourist information center is at the nearby Europa Center (see “Finding Information After You Arrive” later in this chapter). is on the outskirts of central Berlin in Reinickedorf. Another bus that goes to Zoo Station is Bus 109. The X9 takes about 20 minutes to reach Zoo Station. Inside the terminal. On all other flights from the United States. open daily 7:30 a.–7 p.) ߜ TXL Express Bus runs about every ten minutes between the airport and Potsdamer Platz. airlines to offer direct flights to Berlin from within the United States (Continental flies from Newark to Berlin Tegel.10€ ($2. . both with easy public-transportation connections to the city at standard public fares. where you also find the taxi stand. the central train station in the western part of the city near Kurfürstendamm. you can connect to the U-Bahn or the S-Bahn (elevated train).

an S-Bahn that leaves the Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld station about every 20 minutes for central Berlin.S. Tempelhof was closed in October 2004 and a massive $4-billion expansion of Schönefeld airport now is underway. located about 24km (15 miles) southeast of the subways (U-Bahn). All longdistance trains now arrive and depart from the spectacular new Hauptbahnhof (main train station). By train You can reach Berlin by train from everywhere in Europe. When the project is completed. you can take the U7 subway to Bahnhof Zoo in about 50 minutes. As part of a new plan for Berlin airports. Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof All long-distance high-speed trains now arrive at and depart from the Hauptbahnhof. The airport also was the base for the Berlin Airlift in 1948. All air traffic will then be consolidated into a single hub called Berlin Brandenburg International is the old East Berlin airport. while another airport.S. Arriving at Berlin-Schönefeld Schönefeld (SXF) (% 01805/000-186. Until 2006. During the Cold War.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 113 A tale of three airports Tempelhof. Europe’s newest and largest train station. The Hauptbahnhof and all of Berlin’s smaller railway stations (for regional service) are connected to public buses. the U. was Berlin’s main airport during the Third Reich. U-Bahn. served travelers to the city’s Communist. eastern sector. For 24-hour train information. when this spectacular new travel hub opened. Europa Platz 1 (% 0800-1507090 for train schedules. Tegel also will close. Bus.-built Tegel airport served West Berlin. Schönefeld. Taxis wait outside the terminal. or S-Bahn fare is 2. when U. www.10€ ($2.hbf-berlin.50). now mostly used for low-cost airlines and European charter flights. reunified Berlin was . in 2011. www. a shuttle service that runs from the airport to the S-Bahn station and the Rudow U-Bahn station. A taxi ride to the Alexanderplatz area in Mitte takes about 45 to 60 minutes and costs about 50€ ($62). and elevated trains (S-Bahn). From the U-Bahn station. and Bahnhof Zoo (about a 30minute journey) in the western center of Berlin. or you can take Bus 171. built in the call the Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). The S-Bahn station is a ten-minute walk from the airport terminal. The easiest way to get into town from this airport is by Airport Express. stopping at Alexanderplatz and Fredrichstrasse in Berlin Mitte (eastern Berlin). and other Allied forces brought food and supplies to the city during the Soviet blockade.

m. By car Four Autobahn (freeway) routes enter Berlin from western Germany. At the BVG-Pavilion outside the station.m.” later in this chapter). On the main floor at the north end of the station there’s a BERLIN infostore (open daily 8 a. Berlin has one central station. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). to handle train tickets and information. three enter from the east. however. Unless you know this huge city well. the train travel office Reisezentrum Bahnhof Zoo (% 030/19419) is open daily from 7 a. buy the Berlin Welcome Card (described under “Getting Around Berlin. Trains arrive and depart on the lowest level (track numbers easily identified). See “Driving a car. The station has two travel centers.000 travelers every day with a minimum of confusion. the SchauLUST Museum Pass (see Chapter 12).m.m. regional train.).). the main artery in western Berlin. you’ll want to keep the car parked at your hotel or in a garage. you’ll be pulling into this remarkable.m. the pavilion is open daily from 6 a. this was the main western train station until the Hauptbahnhof opened in 2006. % 01805/996-633). maps and Berlin-related books. where you find dozens of shops and food options. After you’re in Berlin. user-friendly terminal. Located close to Kurfürstendamm. where you can purchase train tickets and make seat reservations (both centers open daily 6 a. for the first time in its history. getting around by public transportation is far easier than by car. Unless you arrive by a local. Now. elevators (the entire station is barrier-free) or escalators carry you up to the first and second floors. it’s now used only for regional trains but remains a busy hub for local U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains. to 10 p. and theaters (half-price tickets are sold for performances that day). The fate of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Usually called Bahnhof Zoo (Zoo Station. depending on traffic.75). concert venues.m. the name given to Berlin’s tourist information centers. . you can pick up a free public-transportation map and buy tickets and special passes for buses.m.m. The drive from Frankfurt or Munich takes about eight hours.–10 p. Inside the station. The entrance to the S-Bahn (marked by a green S) is on the second floor of the station.114 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany served by several smaller stations. Whether you’re staying in western or eastern Berlin. getting to your hotel from the Hauptbahnhof couldn’t be easier. the entrance to the U-Bahn (marked by a U) is on the first floor. Here you can use the hotel booking service (3€/$3. to 9 p. Hardenbergplatz 11. In fact. It’s an enormous place but it’s been designed to facilitate up to 300. underground trains (U-Bahn). for general driving tips in the city. a car is a nuisance. and tickets to all of Berlin’s opera houses.” later in this chapter.–10 p.

it costs a minimum of 0.m. to 6 p. open Monday through Friday from 8 a. and wilder than its drab eastern counterpart. and Sunday from 10 a.m. You can also buy the Berlin Welcome Card (see “Transportation basics” later in this chapter).m. in the Hauptbahnhof (see “Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof. and in the Berlin Pavilion at the Reichstag. Berlin is one of the world’s largest cities.m. ߜ In eastern Berlin.” earlier in this chapter). open daily from 10 a. For first-time visitors. bus and subway tickets. is the major transportation hub on the western side of the city and a good landmark for orienting yourself.m.m.). near the Ku-Damm. ߜ Another infostore is located under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at Alexanderplatz. you can find information or book a hotel room (for a fee of 3€/$3. open daily 8:30 a.. or Bahnhof Zoo for short. close to Bahnhof Zoo (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten).m.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 115 Finding Information After You Arrive At a BERLIN infostore. Orienting Yourself in Berlin Covering some 60 square miles. The office is open Monday to Saturday 10 a. Berlin has five walk-in infostores: ߜ The main office in western Berlin is in the newly revamped shopping “passage” called Neues Kranzler Eck.m. to 6 p. weekends 9 a. (See the “Berlin Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.) Introducing western Berlin From 1961 to 1989. (Nov–Mar 10 a. The train station Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten. Scheidermannstrasse. showier.m. West Berlin’s glitziest artery was — and remains — the 4km-long (21⁄2mile) boulevard known as Kurfürstendamm. the first and simplest way to understand Berlin is still to think in terms of the old political boundaries of West and East.m.75). to 8 p.m..m. complex metropolis can be difficult. It’s open daily from 10 a.m. (Nov–Mar daily 10 a. to 8 p. The zoo .–6 p. to 6 p.m.m. Even though the wall has been down since 1989. West Berlin was an island of capitalism inside Communist East Germany.). Kurfürstendamm 21 (at Joachimstaler Strasse). The city’s main attractions now are spread almost evenly across the whole city.m. or the Ku-Damm for short.–6 p.40€ (50¢) per minute. you find infostore branches in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). getting a handle on this sprawling. The infostores operate one information line (% 030/25-00-25). the SchauLUST museum pass (Chapter 12). West Berlin was richer..m.m. to 7 p. and half-price music and theater tickets. to 6 p.

Olbe ssstr Gau strassrse tr. Neue Kantstrasse CHARLOTTENBURG S Kantstrasse Leibniz- Savignyplatz S en rd be rg s tr ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN . ms t isha Lew Europa Center urger Lietzenb i s ts tr. See “Tiergarten-area Attractions” map Hohenst aufenstr. gens Sickin S i e m e ns s tra sse MOABIT Turmstra sse e wstrass Quitzo r e rg be e rle ass Pe Str Beusselstrasse Tegeler ier str end as or se ff- Schlossgarten Kaiserin. Ott oSuh rAlle e nkl inst r Schloss Charlottenburg M . Bismarckstr Ha Str. orfe Wilm e rsd Friedrich- TIERGARTEN S . m dam rsten Kurfü HALENSEE S H Fehrbelliner Platz Bundesallee Grunewald S HOHENZOLLERNDAMM H m am nd r lle zo en oh SCHÖNEBERG rg bu se len tras k ec S M he isc S Hundekehlestrasse Breit e St rass e SCHÖNEBERG Dahlem FRIEDENAU Ha up tst ras se r. CHARLOTTENBURG Spandau Kaiserdamm Ma stra rchsse B str achass e strasse Weg TIERGARTEN Le ve tzo ws tra sse BELLEVUE S HANSAVIERTEL 17.Augusta. Strasse des Juni Kaiser r Str. ch g is b ur Brande n a sse Str m am nd ler l o z en oh er dt tä lfs do Ru r he ru hs e ric ass ied tr Fr S e See “Western Berlin Accomodations and Dining” map e ss ra St WILMERSDORF . S WESTKREUZ S SAVIGNYPLATZ m dam rsten Kurfü Tau en tz Str ass e er pest Budarasse St ien str .Allee F ra mm Spandauer Da Spree Ca ue rst r. Wittenbergplatz Kle Kons tan Stras zer se Uhlandstr.116 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Berlin Neighborhoods Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Kur t-Sc h um ach er D am m SIEMENSSTADT SIEMENSSTADT To Berlin-Tegel Airport sse se tra s es stra e S e Se See “Charlottenburg Attractions” map Putlitzstrasse Lessin gstrasse Stromstr. Damm eler kanal Goerd thafen Munich Wes trasse ohrn-S Max-D .

5 mi N 0.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 117 WEDDING Schönhauser Allee nn Fe se as str s au Ch e ss tra es se NORDBAHNHOF S 0 0 0. S .platz FRIEDRICHht c e STRASSE kn b S Lie rl Ka Mo lls t r. Spre e strasse nan m se re St se as str T wBülo sse stra S-Bahn stop S . Str as se M da üh m len m - den Unter den Lin Friedrich- Museumsinsel NIKOLAIVIERTEL Ge rt str raud as en se - Kar l-M arx -Al lee JANNOWITZBRÜCKE TIERGARTEN UNTER DEN LINDEN BERLINMITTE S n d w ehrkanal Schöneb Potsda mer S tra sse e ANHALTER BAHNHOF Lin den stra s La S fe r em p e l hofe r Ufe Gitschiner Strasse r La n d sse stra rck o Y S Gne is YORCKSTRASSE KREUZBERG enau stras se Kolonnenstrasse Katzbackstrasse Dudenstrasse Columbiadamm asse nstr hafe Flug To BerlinSchönefeld Airport B o elck es trasse Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Hei nric Strah-Hein sse e- POTSDAMER S Leipziger Platz PLATZ e Leipziger Strass se Or an ien str ass e wehrka nal Urb a nst ras se Hase nheid e Brü stra cken sse - Gr eif sw al d er e ass str ide He rg U er h al e r St rasse Invalidenst e rass See Berlin-Mitte maps d e rs xan Ale tr.5 km PRENZLAUER BERG Prin zen stra sse Str as se t Rosen en alid Inv S sse stra ck.Pie elm h il W O ra n ien S Strass e HAUPTBAHNHOF– LEHRTER BAHNHOF Sp ree Pariser Platz S bur HACKESCHER ger Str MARKT Alexander.

Although gentrification is taking place. The borough is centrally located. makes a convenient base for visitors. Dahlem originally was established as an independent village to the southwest of Berlin’s center. rises just across the plaza from the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis Kirche (Memorial Church) near the Ku-Damm and Zoo Station. you find the best concentration of hotels. Charlottenburg also is the home of the Deutsche Oper Berlin (German Opera House). Charlottenburg The district known as Charlottenburg is the wealthiest and most commercialized in western Berlin. Dahlem was the site of western Berlin’s major museums. with lots of bars and clubs. because they have an interior courtyard) constructed for the workers of a rapidly industrializing Prussia. cafes. the Bröham Museum. Charlottenburg. which has plenty of hotels and pensions (B&Bs). restaurants. Dahlem Now the university district. The area is more residential than hotel-oriented. near Potsdamer Platz. Kreuzberg is where you find the new Jüdisches (Jewish) Museum and the small museum called Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. and cafes fill the neighborhood around Savignyplatz. with its lovely gardens and nearby museums: the Ägyptisches (Egyptian) Museum. Upscale shops. theaters. Starting in the 1960s and 1970s.118 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany itself is part of the Tiergarten. and Greece. and the Berggruen Sammlung (Collection). close to . dedicated to the history of divided Berlin. Today. Schöneberg developed in the 19th century as an independent suburb for workers. nightclubs. restaurants. which runs through it. The 22-story Europa Center. Kreuzberg Filled with 19th-century tenement buildings (called Hinterhof. Along the famous Ku-Damm. Schöneberg Like Kreuzberg. many of whom have now lived here for 30 years or more. the former Yugoslavia. a shopping center and entertainment complex. shops. a tree-lined square a short walk north of Kurfürstendamm. Up until reunification. After WWII. however. a beautiful park stretching east and ending at the cultural center known as the Kulturforum. most of them have now moved farther into the city. about 35 percent of its population is composed of Gastarbeiter (guest workers) from Turkey. the area was rebuilt as a middle-class neighborhood. This neighborhood no longer is a convenient place to stay. Kreuzberg traditionally has been the poorest and most crowded of western Berlin’s districts. Charlottenburg’s regal centerpiece is Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace). one of Berlin’s three opera houses. but you may want to come here to visit the Brücke Museum. the neighborhood remains funky around the edges. and department stores. the district became home to the city’s artistic countercultural scene.

which starts at the Brandenburg Gate and extends east. the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). All in all. Wilmersdorf is a very pleasant borough in which to stay. now called Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt and used for .and 19th-century palaces and monuments. also is in Berlin-Mitte. The grand boulevard called Unter den Linden. the center of Berlin. I recommend giving this fascinating area at least a full day of your time.) The beautiful neoclassical square called Gendarmenmarkt. and other museums. with good U-Bahn connections and many hotels and pensions. The Tiergarten park. is the new name of the central section of former East Berlin. Both areas formerly stood behind the Berlin Wall and now are full of new buildings and ongoing construction. Berlin-Mitte has numerous attractions. Tiergarten is one of the best areas in Berlin for hotels and restaurants. Wannsee is the most popular lake for swimming and boating. and Alvar Aalto. This 38-sq. is lined with 18th. is where you find the magnificently restored early-19th-century Schauspielhaus (theater). Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) Berlin-Mitte. this area was. contains a series of residential buildings designed in the late 1950s by different architects. the famed Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). in fact. Wilmersdorf The huge park called the Grünewald (groo-nuh-vald) takes up the western portion of this borough. Berlin’s densest concentration of gay bars and clubs is in Schöneberg between Nollendorfplatz and Victoria-Luise-Platz. home of the Philharmonic (Philharmonic Hall). The oldest and most historic part of Berlin. Before the war and the division of the city. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is the main opera house in eastern Berlin.-km (15-sq. Walter Gropius. (The Komische Oper. toward the Ku-Damm. The Tiergarten neighborhood also contains the Kulturforum. occupying the northwest section of Tiergarten.-mile) lake-filled forest begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm and is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. originally intended as a backdrop to the grand avenues laid out by the German kaisers. The Hansaviertel (Hans Quarter). Tiergarten also is where you find the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag (Parliament) building.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 119 the Ku-Damm.” and it refers both to western Berlin’s massive urban park and a business-residential district of the same name. Tiergarten The name Tiergarten means “Animal Garden. Wilmersdorf is a quiet residential neighborhood filled with an excellent assortment of hotels and pensions and plenty of low-key restaurants and cafes. just off Unter den Linden. contains the Berlin Zoo in its southwest corner. also called Stadtmitte (City Center) or just plain Mitte (Center). Closer in. including Le Corbusier. Berlin’s third opera house. Berlin-Mitte symbolically begins at Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. on the east side of Tiergarten park.

The following sections describe the various options you have for getting from place to place. just south of Alexanderplatz along the Spree River. Berlin’s Transport Authority (% 030/19449 24hour information line. Berlin has a comprehensive public transportation system. convenient. the S-Bahn (surface or elevated train). Going public: U-Bahn. This well-integrated public-transport system is run by BVG. one of the highest structures in Europe. at 368 m. The Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). Luxury boutiques and department stores crowd the street. Transportation basics You can buy your ticket at any U-Bahn station (at windows or machines that have English translations) or from a bus driver. U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines converge at Friedrichstrasse train station. was the center of activity in the Soviet era. is regaining its prewar reputation as Berlin’s preeminent shopping street. Alexanderplatz. bus.120 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany concerts. and a few Strassenbahnen (streetcars) that still operate in eastern Berlin only. www. northeast of Mitte. safe. S-Bahn. For a map of Berlin’s U-Bahn and S-Bahn. short-term travelers will find little of interest. and not to everyone’s liking: Eight skyscrapers will eventually surround Alexanderplatz and reduce the prominence of the Soviet-era Fernsehturm (TV tower). Prenzlauer Berg. site of four major museums. a square named for Russian Czar Alexander I.bvg. Friedrichstrasse. It’s now being completely redone.). you find the marvelous Museumsinsel (Museum Island). You can also buy . and even dedicated walkers won’t be able to cover it entirely on and relatively inexpensive. Period taverns and riverside restaurants make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque stroll. see the inside back cover of this book. which intersects Unter den Linden. The system consists of the U-Bahn (underground train). the transportation hub of Berlin-Mitte. ferries on the lakes. Getting Around Berlin Berlin is a huge city. is a charming area restored to look as it did (with some contemporary touches) in Berlin’s medieval and baroque eras. is now the hippest neighborhood in eastern Berlin and a favored spot for young Berliners to live. Luckily. Except to check out the ongoing gentrification. Gay and lesbian visitors may want to explore Prenzlauer Berg’s burgeoning gay cafe and club scene.207 ft. buses. (1. At the eastern end of Unter den Linden. and Strassenbahn Berlin’s excellent public-transportation system makes getting around fast.

U-Bahn (underground train) The subway in Berlin is called the U-Bahn. you also have several money-saving options. the following day and costs 5. and C) and provides price reductions of up to 50 percent at many tourist attractions in Berlin. You must validate your ticket by sticking it into one of the validation boxes on all U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms or inside buses and streetcars. A regular Normaltarif or Einzelfahrscheine (one-way fare).80€ ($7. before your first trip. they intersect at Bahnhof Zoo. Nine lines crisscross the city in all directions and extend to the far reaches of Brandenburg. all the way to Potsdam. which costs 16€ ($18) for 48 hours or 22€ ($24) for 72 hours. you find a map of the stops. For short hops (3 consecutive U. B. ߜ The 7-Tage-Karte (7-day ticket) costs 25€ ($32) for zones A and B. When purchasing tickets for public transportation. One ticket enables you to change from U-Bahn to S-Bahn and to the bus during a two-hour period. Thirteen lines cover most of central Berlin. The fare is based on three zones (A.50). If yours hasn’t been validated.m. you can get a Kurzstrecke (short-stretch) ticket for 1.m. Service is fast and efficient. including the following: ߜ A Tageskarte (day ticket) is good on all forms of transportation from validation until 3 a.50). Ticket inspectors may suddenly appear to check everyone’s ticket. the office is open daily from 6 a. and C). good for two hours in zones A and B is 2. B. but after midnight only two lines — U9 and U2 — run on a limited schedule. A large U in a blue box identifies each station. The entire transportation system runs on an honor system — you won’t find turnstiles or ticket collectors. Zone C extends far beyond the city’s borders. you’re guilty of Schwarzfahren (black travel) and fined 75€ ($94) on the spot. directly outside Zoo Station. The card is good for all public transportation in central Berlin (zones A. ߜ If you’re in Berlin for two days. which are announced. Long-term tickets are validated only once. consider the Berlin Welcome Card. All your sightseeing within the Berlin city limits will be in zones A and B.25) for zones A and B.20€ ($1. to 10 p.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 121 tickets and passes (and receive a free transportation map) at the BVGPavillion on Hardenbergplatz. S-Bahn (elevated train) The venerable elevated train system in Berlin is called the S-Bahn. and the routes are clearly marked in all stations and in the trains. each car contains a map of . In each car.or S-Bahn stops or 6 stops on a bus or streetcar).10€ ($2.m.

122 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
the stops, which are announced. A large S in a green circle identifies each station. S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations sometimes overlap, so you can change from one to the other. Service is basically nonexistent after midnight. The S-Bahn is particularly handy if you’re going from Bahnhof Zoo east to the Friedrichstrasse/Unter den Linden area or southwest to Grünewald and the lakes.

Riding atop one of Berlin’s double-decker buses (single-deckers also operate) is a fun way to see the city. A green H (for Haltstelle, or stop) in a yellow circle identifies each stop. Regular service begins about 5 a.m. and ends about midnight. Night buses (designated with an N) leave every half-hour, going west and east, from Bahnhof Zoo and Bahnhof Hackescher Markt (near Alexanderplatz in eastern Berlin). One of the best and cheapest sightseeing routes is on Bus 100, which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and travels through the Tiergarten, passing Bellevue Palace (the Berlin residence of the German president), the Reichstag, and the Victory Column all the way to the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Museum Island, and Alexanderplatz.

Strassenbahn (streetcar)
Streetcars, called Strassenbahnen, run in eastern Berlin only. Because you can get practically everywhere on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you probably won’t be using the streetcar. Ticket prices are the same as for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and buses.

Taking a taxi
Thousands of ivory-colored taxis cruise Berlin’s main streets. Hailing one during the day is easier than at night. The fare starts at 2.50€ ($3.10) and costs 1.55€ ($1.90) per kilometer (1⁄2 mile). For short distances, flag down a taxi and ask for the Winktarif: a special rate (3€/ $3.75) for a short lift. To order a taxi, call % 210-101. Tip taxi drivers by rounding up to the nearest euro.

Driving a car
I don’t recommend renting ein Auto in Berlin. Local drivers tend to be aggressive, and the street system itself can be fiendishly difficult to navigate. The public-transport system gets you everywhere you want at a fraction of the cost. If you’re out very late, you can grab a cab to get back to your hotel. The only time a car may come in useful is when you want to explore the surrounding countryside. The offices for Hertz (Budapester Strasse 37; % 030/262-1053) and Avis (Budapester Strasse 43; % 030/230-9370) are close to Bahnhof Zoo.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


If you drive in town, be aware that the right lanes in inner-city areas are often reserved for buses, taxis, and bicycles only. When turning right, you must give way to any vehicle (including bikes) in that lane. Some right-hand lanes are reserved for buses at stated times and otherwise can be used by cars. Also remember that in Germany, using a mobile phone while driving is against the law. In Berlin and throughout Germany, cars can park only on the right side of the road. In most inner-city areas, you must obtain a parking ticket at one of the street-side ticket machines to display on your dashboard. The police quickly tow cars that violate these laws. If that happens, you can go to any police station to find out where your car is. The whole process costs more than 150€ ($187) — and a great deal of time. Parking garages are more expensive than street parking, but they save you the potential hassle of getting towed.

Staying in Style
Finding a hotel room in Berlin is easy, unless a big trade fair or soccer match is happening in town. Prices generally are lower than in other major European cities. (You can find a good hotel in Berlin for less than 150€/$187 a night.) I do, however, strongly recommend that you reserve your room before you arrive. If you arrive in Berlin without a hotel room, you can go to one of the BERLIN infostores (for locations and opening hours see “Finding Information After You Arrive,” earlier in this chapter). For 3€ ($3.75), the infostore staff will find you a room. You can also book hotels by calling % 030/25-00-25. For locations of the hotels in this chapter, see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining.”

The top hotels
For details on two of the city’s best hotels, Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) and Kempinski Hotel Bristol ($$$$), see Chapter 22.

Arco Hotel
$ Schöneberg
This small, gay-friendly hotel is housed in a four-story turn-of-the-century building on a quiet street near the Ku-Damm. Most of the 21 fairly large rooms have high windows and modern furniture. Private bathrooms, all with showers, are on the small side. One of the nicest features is the airy breakfast room, which looks out on a courtyard garden (you can eat outside in warm weather). The English-speaking staff is friendly and helpful. One potential drawback: no elevator.

124 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining
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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


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126 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
See map p. 124. Geisbergstrasse 30, 10777 Berlin. % 030/218-8065. Fax: 030/21475178. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Ansbacher Strasse and west on Geisbergstrasse). Rates: 65€–97€ ($81–$121) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

$ Charlottenburg
Located on the top floors of a large apartment building, Artemisia is an excellent hotel for women only. The rooms are large, light, and free of froufrou but still have a warm ambience heightened by splashes of color. Ten of the 12 rooms have toilets and small showers. You can save money by renting one of the two rooms that share a toilet and shower. A private roof terrace with wonderful views over Berlin becomes a gathering spot on warm afternoons and evenings. See map p. 124. Brandenburgischestrasse 18, 10707 Berlin. % 030/873-8905. Fax: 030/861-8653. U-Bahn: Blissestrasse (then a 3minute walk northwest on Brandenburgischestrasse). Rates: 89€–115€ ($111–$144) double with bathroom; 79€–89€ ($99–$111) double without bathroom. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Art-Hotel Charlottenburger Hof
$ –$$ Charlottenburg
Located across from the Charlottenburg S-Bahn station, this budget hotel is one of the best and brightest in Berlin. This inexpensive property is unusually well decorated for its price range and offers several amenities, such as in-room safes, hair dryers, and laundry facilities. Primary colors of blue, yellow, and red (plus white) brighten some of the 45 contemporary-style rooms, a few of which have balconies. Rooms and bathrooms, which have showers, are fairly small. All guest rooms are equipped with computers that provide free Internet access. The breakfast buffet costs an additional 8€ ($ 10). See map p. 124. Stuttgarter Platz 14, 10627 Berlin. % 030/329-070. Fax: 030/332-3723. S-Bahn: Charlottenburg (the hotel is north of the station). Rates: 65€–125€ ($81–$156) double. AE, MC, V.

Baxpax Downtown Hostel Hotel
$ –$$ Mitte
If you’re looking for a really inexpensive place to stay in Berlin, check out this clean, friendly hostel/hotel in Mitte. You can stay in an eight-bed dorm room, a more private double room with a shower and toilet, or a small studio with a bathroom. Nothing fancy or frilly here: The rooms have been simply but nicely designed and there’s a cafe and a roof terrace for relaxing and meeting fellow backpackers and explorers. Baxpax has two other hostels in eastern Berlin in addition to this one: Baxpax Kreuzberg Hostel Berlin, Skalitzer Strasse 104 (% 030/6951-8322; S-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor),



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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin




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128 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
and Mitte’s Backpacker Hostel Berlin, Chauseestrasse 102 (% 030/28390935; U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). See map p. 127. Ziegelstrasse 28, 10117 Berlin. % 030/2787-4880. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse (then a 5-minute walk south on Tucholsky Strasse and west on Ziegelstrasse). Rates: 15€–18€ ($19–$22) dorm bed without bathroom; 59€ ($74) double room with shower and toilet; 75–119€ ($94–$149) studio/apartment with bathroom. MC, V.

Bleibtreu Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
If you’re looking for chic, central, contemporary digs near the Ku-Damm, this 60-room boutique hotel is the place for you. The rooms aren’t particularly large but are artfully designed and furnished. The furniture coverings are hypoallergenic, and no chemicals of any kind are used for cleaning. The small, stylish bathrooms have sinks of carved stone. Other features include remote-control-operated lights, wireless phones, fax machines in every suite, and electric awnings over street-facing windows. The hotel has a Wellness Center where you can take a pore-cleansing sauna. Restaurant 31, near the small lobby, lays out a healthy breakfast buffet (an extra 15€/$ 19); the bar is lively at night. See map p. 124. Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Berlin. % 030/884-740. Fax: 030/8847-4444. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). Rates: 132€–232€ ($165–$240) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Grand Hyatt Berlin
$$$$ Tiergarten
The Grand Hyatt Berlin, right smack-dab in the center of all the action in the new Potsdamer Platz area, is one of the coolest places to stay, and one of the more expensive. This big hotel, built in 1998 with 342 rooms, is sleek and glamorous throughout. Rooms are large and have beautiful wood finishes and wonderful bathrooms set up with Japanese-style soaking tubs. Restaurants include Vox, for Eurasian cuisine and sushi; Tizian, for international classics; and Bistro Dietrich, for casual cafe-style food. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. 124. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, 10785 Berlin. % 030/2553-1234. Fax: 030/2553-1235. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west to Marlene-Dietrich-Platz). Rates: 240€–430€ ($300–$537) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Alsterhof Berlin
$ –$$$$ Wilmersdorf
Location — just a few minutes walk from Bahnhof Zoo and the Ku-Damm — is this hotel’s greatest asset. If you’re in Berlin on business and need a reasonably priced full-service hotel in a central location, this place fills the bill. The 195 rooms are comfortable and quiet, and have plenty of extra

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


amenities (trouser press, safe, minibar, hair dryer), although they aren’t particularly stylish. You find a pool and sauna on the sixth floor. The breakfast buffet costs 16€ ($20). See map p. 124. Augsburger Strasse 5, 10789 Berlin. % 030/212-420. Fax: 030/2183949. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east across Joachimstaler Platz and east on Augsburger Strasse). Rates: 85€–200 ($108–$250) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Brandenburger Hof
$$$$ Charlottenburg
The beautifully appointed, 86-room Hotel Brandenburger Hof offers superior service, an on-site spa, and one of the top restaurants in Berlin. Centrally located in western Berlin, this Relais & Châteaux hotel is close to the Ku-Damm and the Tiergarten. The guest rooms are unusually large for Berlin and furnished in an elegant Bauhaus style that is rarely encountered in other hotels. Bathrooms have wood and granite finishes. You can enjoy the sumptuous breakfast buffet, included in the price of the room, in a glass-walled conservatory built around a Japanese garden. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Die Quadriga (named for the four-horse chariot atop the Brandenburg Gate), earned a Michelin star (see “Dining Out,” later in this chapter). See map p. 124. Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Berlin. % 030/214-050. Fax: 030/21405100. U-Bahn: Kurfurstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east on Augsburger Strasse and south on Rankestrasse to Eislebener Strasse). Rates: 245€–295€ ($306–$369) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Domus
$$ –$$$ Wilmersdorf
Set in an unusually pretty section of Wilmersdorf, down the street from St. Ludwig’s Church and within walking distance of the Ku-Damm, this modern 73-room hotel has a calm, appealing simplicity. The spacious rooms are quiet (thanks to soundproof windows) and tastefully decorated with highquality contemporary furniture (lots of light-colored wood). Rooms face the inner courtyard or the street. The bathrooms are unusually large and have either a shower or a tub. Breakfast is served in a lovely dining room. Free high-speed Internet service is a nice bonus. See map on p. 124. Uhlandstrasse 49, 10719 Berlin. % 030/880-3440. Fax: 030/88034444. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west on Hohenzollerndamm and north on Uhlandstrasse). Rates: 115€–150€ ($144–$187) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Pension Niebuhr
$ Charlottenburg
This pleasant, gay-friendly pension in Charlottenburg is one of the best deals in Berlin. The 12 rooms, all on the second floor of a turn-of-the-century apartment building (no elevator), have a fresh, modest flair. The furnishings and

130 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
color schemes are bright and cheerful. Three street-facing rooms have balconies; the rooms facing the courtyard (Hinterhof) can be a bit dark, but they’re very quiet. One bonus: Breakfast (5€/$ 6.25) is brought up to your room. See map p. 124. Niebuhrstrasse 74, 10629 Berlin. % 030/324-9595. Fax: 030/881-4707. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Niebuhrstrasse). Rates: 53€ ($66) double without bathroom; 72€ ($90) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

Pension Nürnberger Eck
$ Charlottenburg
If you’re seeking an atmospheric old-fashioned pension, try this one on the second floor of a building near the Europa Center, a shopping and entertainment complex. High-ceilinged rooms with heavy doors open off a long, dark hallway. Although the eight rooms are stylistically something of a mishmash, with patterned wallpaper, Oriental rugs, and big pieces of furniture, the pension does convey an Old Berlin charm. The bathrooms are a decent size, and the breakfast room is pleasant. See map p. 124. Nürnberger Strasse 24a, 10789 Berlin. % 030/235-1780. Fax: 030/2351-7899. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Tauentzienstrasse and south on Nürnberger Strasse). Rates: 70€–92€ ($87–$115) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Savoy Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
The quietly charming Savoy, which opened in 1930, has played host to more than a few celebrities through the years. You can’t beat the location, just a skip from the Ku-Damm, or the unobtrusively efficient service. The 125 rooms provide spacious and comfortable accommodations, with large bathrooms, but don’t look for any modern design touches here; the hotel is completely up-to-date with wireless and cable networks, but the décor remains resolutely old-fashioned. There’s a good restaurant, Weinrot, serving international and regional dishes, and if your room rate includes the breakfast buffet, you’re in for a treat. Nonsmokers may find the lingering cigar fumes from the Times Bar, just off the lobby, bothersome. See map p. 124. Fasanenstrasse 9–10, 10623 Berlin. % 800-223-5652 in the U.S. or 030/311-030. Fax: 030/3110-3666. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse and north on Fasanenstrasse). Rates: 152€–295€ ($190–$369) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Runner-up hotels
Ambassador Berlin
$$ Schöneberg A comfortable, old-fashioned “retro” look characterizes this hotel located near the huge Kaufhaus des Westens department store. See map p. 124.

Fax: 030/889-0260..hilton. % 030/88900. 124. or 030/20270. 10719 Berlin. See map p. 10711 Berlin. Potsdamer Platz 3. Friedrichstrasse 158–164. Grolmanstrasse 35. www. See map p. here are a few more $$$$ suggestions: ߜ Berlin Hilton. 127. www.S. See map p. Fax: 030/2023-4269. 10787 Berlin. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. or 030/33-77-77.heckershotel.S. Kurfürstendamm 101. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. 10117 Berlin. www. www. Leibnizstrasse 59. Fax: 030/ 124. See map p. and Canada. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. Fax: 030/ 265-1171. ߜ Grand Hotel Esplanade.ritz-carlton. 124. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz. Fax: 030/217-7077. 124. % 030/327-7440. clean and comfortable. The big splurge If you’re looking for top-of-the-line and Canada. Fax: 030/777-5555. % 030/219-020. www. % 030/2177-07476. ߜ Ritz-Carlton. 10117 Berlin. See map p. See map p. 10785 Berlin. but the place is conveniently located and impeccably maintained. Hotel Wilmersdorf $ Wilmersdorf This no-fuss pension is large. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. Fax: 030/2190-2380. some vivid colors. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz.esplanade. 127.kudamm101. % 030/520-0550. Lützowufer 15. Hotel Art Nouveau $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg This and offers a buffet breakfast overlooking the rooftops of www. 10623 Berlin.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 131 Bayreutherstrasse 42–43. See map p. or 030/20230. 10785 Berlin.S. Schaperstrasse 36. www. trendy hotel may look a bit sterile to some. Ku’Damm 101 $$ Wilmersdorf A minimalist aesthetic. 10629 Berlin.hotelartnouveau. and a bit of “I’m so cool” attitude characterize this interesting new hotel. .com. Mohrenstrasse 30. % 800-241-3333 in the % 800-937-8461 in the U. % 800-445-8667 in the U. Fax: 030/2005-5555. Fax: 030/ www.westin-grand. See map p. Hecker’s Hotel $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg The streamlined rooms in this small. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. ߜ Westin Grand Hotel. 124. atmospheric hotel is on the fourth floor of an Art Nouveau apartment house. sorat-hotels. % 030/254-780. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz.

and pea soup (Erbsensuppe). but the local culinary tradition is fairly basic and very filling. and bacon. duck. see Chapter 12. meatballs (Buletten) with boiled potatoes. for example. original artwork. Restaurant and cafe bills include the service charge and value-added tax (MWST). % 030/857-9120. www.132 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Pension München $ Wilmersdorf You find simple. Typical Berlin dishes include grilled or pickled herring with onions. round the total up to 7€ and add another euro or two if the service was good. which uses the old standbys as a starting point but dolls them up with unusual ingredients and international touches. modern décor. U-Bahn: Günzelstrasse. For a few recommended brewpubs. pickled or roast pork (Schweinefleisch) or pork knuckles (Eisbein) with red cabbage and dumplings. see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining” earlier in this chapter. Güntzelstrasse and plenty of other nice touches in this third-floor pension. 124. Scattered all around town are vendors selling Berlin’s classic fast-food snacks: Currywurst (sausage with a glob of “curry” sauce) or fried bratwurst. and wild boar appears seasonally. afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is a time-honored tradition. places to enjoy a casual meal with a freshly drawn beer. Fax: 030/8579-1222. I list some good cafe choices at the end of this chapter. For locations of the restaurants in this chapter. Game like venison. You can always get an inexpensive meal (soup. carp and trout often are available. Dining Out Berlin offers every kind of international cuisine. If the bill is 6. See map p.30€. And speaking of cafes: Don’t forget that in Germany.hotel-pension-muenchenin-berlin. but rounding out the total bill with an extra amount as a gratuity is standard practice. A plate with various cold meats is called a Schlachteplatte (schlock-tuh-plaht-tuh). fried potatoes. 10717 Berlin. Grabbing a wurst or eating at the stand-up counters of the fast-food snack shops (look for signs that read IMBISS or SCHNELL-IMBISS) is a good way to save time and money. and lighter dishes) at one of Berlin’s plentiful cafes. Fancier restaurants often serve what’s called neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). sandwiches. .

124. 124. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. The menu changes daily and offers several main courses.m.–2 a. (winter Sat–Sun 12:30 p. roast quail. Otto-Suhr-Allee 144. chicken.–2 a. MC. See map p.m. duck with cassis sauce. For lunch. Chez Martial $$ Charlottenburg FRENCH Top-quality products and good cooking have helped establish Chez Martial as one of Berlin’s most popular French restaurants. marinated boiled beef with chive cream. or smoked-fish pie. Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets). eggs. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). and plenty of antiques.and French-inspired dishes.m. and beans). Regensburgerstrasse 7. V. See map p. flowers. The restaurant has a outdoor arbor for summertime dining. The menu changes daily according to what’s freshest in the market. is wonderful. including fresh fish. . U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Hardenberg Strasse and south on Fasanenstrasse). this was a temple of neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). but the place now serves more Austrian.–2 a. % 030/341-1033. cooked in a broth of fish and shellfish that’s whipped into a foam. For dessert. 124. Art is tucked beneath the S-Bahn track at Fasanenstrasse.m. Main courses: 22€–39€ ($27–$49).) Bamberger Reiter $$$$ Schöneberg AUSTRIAN Housed in a century-old wine tavern at the corner of Regensburger Strasse and Bamburger Strasse. and cafe rolled into one. % 030/313-2625. with parquet floors. Bamburger Reiter is small and rustic. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Regensburgerstrasse).m. and couscous. Reservations required. Fasanenstrasse 81A. The staff is friendly. lamb. Come to this gay-friendly place for an English breakfast (bacon. fish. No credit cards. and a vegetarian Maultaschen (stuffed pasta). poultry. MC. beef. try the pumpernickel mousse. Reservations recommended. % 030/218-4282. Open: Tues–Sat 5:30–11:30 p. The fish soup. AE. Main courses: 9€–19€ ($11–$23).m. try a bowl of potato soup with sausage or one of the many salads.m. and may include cream of mushroom soup. DC. Dinner choices include homemade pasta.m. Every dish is freshly prepared..Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 133 The top restaurants Art $ –$$ Charlottenburg GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A restaurant. bar. Open: Tues–Sun 6–11:30 p. Reservations recommended for dinner. Sat–Sun 10 a. See map p. and outdoor seating is available in good weather. V. so be ready to wait (while savoring a bottle of good French wine). U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Richard-Wagner-Strasse and west on Otto-SuhrAllee). For many years.

U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 2-minute walk south on Eislebener Strasse). Reservations required. MC. Main courses: 13€–19€ ($16–$23). and basil. Pasta is made fresh daily. . See map p. % 030/214-050. You also find vegetarian dishes. Everything is of the finest quality. For an appetizer. grilled trout. swordfish with fresh tomatoes. V. onions. and the good pizzas are kid-pleasing.m. Mommsenstrasse 9. You’ll want a table outside if the weather is fine. or roast of elk with chanterelle mushrooms.m. AE. smoked ham in cream sauce. and a tasty potato soup with shrimp and bacon. In Hotel Brandenburger Hof. Reservations recommended. Dishes are classically French and seasonally fresh. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). offers a truly memorable dining experience. smoked Pomeranian goose. Open: Daily 11 a. Other starters include Beetenbartsch. Open: Mon–Sat 5 p. MC. a richly ornamented 1765 mansion. 127. The restaurant also has a well-stocked wine cellar. See map p. while another section contains this Italian-influenced restaurant. Main courses are something of an adventure: stewed pickled beef with green dumplings and stewed cabbage.50€ ($6–$12).50€–9. 124.134 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Die Quadriga $$$$ Wilmersdorf FRENCH Die Quadriga. Open: Mon–Fri 7–11 p. which sits right next to the Spree River. such as broccoli soufflé. V. try homemade aspic. Choices include salmon with white-wine sauce. the pedestrian street along the river). just south of Alexanderplatz. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). AE. DC. See map p. to midnight. is the Ephraim-Palais. to midnight. because that’s what this place does best. 1 star means very good) in the beautiful Brandenburger Hof Hotel. a delicious red-beet soup with beef strips and sour cream. And you’ll probably want to order fish. MC. Closed July 17–Aug 20. the one-star Michelin restaurant (in Michelin’s guides. AE. DC.m. The wonderful wine list includes several wines available by the half-bottle or by the carafe. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 5minute walk southwest on Mühlendamm to Spreeufer. Marjellchen $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg EAST PRUSSIAN Old East Prussian recipes prepared by the owner’s grandmother inspired the dishes that are served at this popular restaurant. pork kidneys in sweet-andsour cream sauce. or fried chicken legs. Reservations recommended. pizzas 4. 124. V. Spreeufer 2. Eislebener Strasse 14. and grilled or baked crayfish. % 030/242-5183. Part of the building is a museum. Main courses: 35€ ($44). La Riva $$ Mitte ITALIAN/SEAFOOD One of the prettiest buildings in the restored Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). % 030/883-2676. fixed-price menu 55€–110€ ($69–$137). which celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2005. but you need to reserve well in advance because the elegant restaurant seats only 28 diners.

The dining room has long communal tables. and suckling pig. % 030/313-8052. fried noodles. Open: Daily noon to 11 p. You can get a good plate of spaghetti or a good . 127. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). Open: Daily noon to 1 a. The restaurant’s interior. 124. AE. 127. See map p. with wooden tables and benches. Reservations recommended. Diners mark what they want on the menu (an English menu is available) and hand it to the server. MC. Main courses: 7€–13€ ($9–$16). or you can dine outside in nice weather. Französische Strasse 47. saddle of veal with lemon butter. Reservations recommended. See map p. has been a Berlin institution. glazed duck breast. spare. V. and new potatoes. and satays (skewers with meat or fish). and a bit of French attitude. AE. In the past couple of years. ham. the restaurant has expanded its classic French bistro menu to include more upscale Austrian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. or grilled foie gras.m. the restaurant is large. gilding. Wiener Schnitzel. inexpensive lunch. Restaurant Borchardt $$ –$$$ Mitte FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL You can recognize Borchardt. You may find asparagus with hollandaise sauce. Reservations recommended. plus noodle soups. % 030/2038-87110. sashimi. Inside. to midnight. risotto with porcini mushrooms. this new Japanese-inspired noodle house offers a good. Spreepromenade beside Liebknecht Bridge. and elegant. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 3-minute walk east on Französische Strasse). Paris Bar $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg FRENCH/AUSTRIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Since the end of WWII. Open: Daily 11:30 a.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Noodle $ –$$ Mitte JAPANESE/ASIAN 135 Located right beside the Spree River. Kantstrasse 152.m. % 030/23828-3464. Menu offerings typically include baked tuna fish with Asian vegetables. reasonably priced selection of sushi. See map p. directly across from the Gendarmenmarkt. Toto $ –$$ Charlottenburg ITALIAN Toto is a good place to sit outside on a warm Berlin afternoon and have a good. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse). between Savignyplatz and the Memorial Church. the Paris Bar. MC. Main courses: 16€–28€ ($20–$35). across from the giant Berlin cathedral and beneath the Radisson SAS Hotel (of which it’s now a part). lunch specials 14€ ($17). by its blood-colored awning and red-sandstone facade. and other specialties. The best bet for lunch is one of the fixed-price specials.m. No credit cards. with marble. Main courses change often. is nothing fancy. V. Main courses: 10€–25€ ($13–$31). fresh fish.

m. The casual atmosphere makes Toto a good place to bring kids.m. dating from 1525. No credit cards. 124. has earned a Michelin star for its refined cooking. See map p. which happens to be Berlin’s oldest restaurant. % 030/202-9730. Open: Daily noon to 2 a. V. The lasagna is worth trying. 127. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Motzstrasse. Jägerstrasse 54–55. See map p. available every Tuesday and Friday (market days). Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). Main courses: 28€–38€ ($35–$47). Note: The restaurant can be a bit smoky. Vau $$$$ Mitte INTERNATIONAL This sleek and unabashedly upscale gastronomic showcase. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. the menu has several items that kids generally like. % 030/211-6642. All kinds of meat dishes and some good seafood (calamari and scampi grilled or cooked with radicchio and rosemary in white-wine sauce) round out the menu. however. very modern. Zur Letzten Instanz $ –$$ Mitte BERLINER The former East Berlin now has several trendy new restaurants. but I still recommend this place. Trattoria da Muntagnola $ –$$ Wilmersdorf ITALIAN This popular Italian place is casually rustic. See map p. includes grilled salmon with butter and lemon and grilled crayfish cooked in olive oil. Bleibtreustrasse 55. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte (then a 5minute walk east across Gendarmenmarkt). In this long. MC. The pizzas are good. particularly the Pizza della Mamma with bacon and Parma ham. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). DC. V.m. to midnight. Fuggerstrasse 27. The menu is huge and the cooking is reliable. roast duck breast with herbs and carrots. and west on Fuggerstrasse). and very beautiful. 124. MC. Open: Daily 6 p.m. and 7–11:30 p. which opened near the Gendarmenmarkt in early 1997. DC. The bean soup is filling. classic Wiener Schnitzel. fixed-price dinner 80€–100€ ($100–$125). with braids of garlic hanging from the beamed ceiling. too. Fresh fish. everything is very precise. Reservations required. Some of the pastas are made on the premises. % 030/312-5449. and various fish choices. Vau is a very dress-up kind of place for a superfancy lunch or dinner with impeccable service. north on Luther Strasse. The restaurant occupies two floors of a much-restored . not remarkable. Reservations recommended. AE. rather narrow room with an arched ceiling. The menu includes a nice selection of Italian wines and aperitifs. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25).136 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany salad. The menu choices are deftly prepared and can be surprisingly unfussy: venison with artichokes and mushrooms. AE.

Main courses: 7€–10€ ($8. The menu is unpretentious and the portions hearty. DC. For dessert. DC. Sun noon to 11 p.m. V. ߜ Café Aedes. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 1-minute walk east along the street below the tracks). Main courses include Old Berlin staples like grilled herring. Zur Nolle $ Mitte GERMAN A hundred years ago. bacon. MC.m. Try the jacket potatoes with herring. Sun 11:30 a. or mushrooms).m. Wash everything down with a cold. 127. % 030/885-7480. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 1 a. The place closed in 1968 (GDR years) but reopened in 1993. 124.m. 127. % 030/242-5528. V. See map p. onions. you find an old-fashioned cafe with a balcony overlooking the busy Ku-Damm. so you also can get a beer or a glass of wine. AE. between Savignyplatz and the Ku-Damm. and additions (fried egg. to midnight. This place is a good one for having an elegant breakfast or light lunch. with choice locations on Unter den Linden near the Brandenburg Gate and on the Ku-Damm at Wittenbergplatz. AE. Zur Nolle was a busy working-class beer hall beneath the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station. yogurt. too. foamy Bier von Fass (beer from the tap). The cafes likewise are bars. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41 (see map p. and vegetarian salads. Meals range from 10€ to 16€ ($13–$20). has a pastry and candy shop at street level. MC. % 030/ 285-8278. which come with a variety of sauces.m.. or onion fillings. ߜ Café/Bistro Leysieffer. Meals range from 7€ to 9€ ($8. Kurfürstendamm 218 (see map p.75–$11). vanilla ice cream. Waisenstrasse 14–16. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). % 030/208-2655. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 3-minute walk south on Waisenstrasse). is trendy. and the menu is as traditional and atmospheric as can be. meatballs. For old time’s sake. spices. to midnight.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 137 baroque building in the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter).m. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. I recommend the homemade Bulette (meatballs). These are places to go for breakfast. Vegetarian offerings include vegetable lasagna and roasted broccoli with cheese served on pasta. Bleibtreustrasse (U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). to 7 p. Starbucks is now a presence in Berlin. convivial. or the roast bratwurst. or a light meal or snack.–6 p. and braised lamb knuckles with green beans and dumplings. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. 127. soups. The best cafes Berlin is a city filled with cafes. and whipped cream.m. is particularly rich in cafes. See map p. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse). and very hip.75–$13). The menu usually has dishes like tortellini with cheese sauce. . U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Beneath the arches of Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station (SBahnbogen 30). as a sign of post-reunification nostalgia for a bit of Old Berlin. a cup of coffee and a piece of Kuchen (cake). apple. upstairs.m. try the chocolate-covered pancakes filled with blueberries.

Oranienburger Strasse 27 (see map p. The cafe is open Monday to Friday from 10 a. and an all-day breakfast.m. tall.m. salads. you find sushi. to 4 a.m. soups.m. The cafe is open daily from 9:30 a. 124. The cafe is housed in a long. . Fasanenstrasse 23 (see map p. % 030/882-5414. U-Bahn: Hohenzollernplatz). % 030/ 281-2095. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. The menu includes pastas.m. A meal costs around 7€ ($8. salads.. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). miso soup with noodles. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($9– $22). occupies two modern-looking rooms in a 19th-century villa 1 block south of the Ku-Damm. to 5 a. ߜ Cafe Wintergarten in Literaturhaus Berlin. and vegetarian curries. narrow room with original 1920s wall paintings and modern furniture. to 1 a.m.138 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ߜ Café Silberstein.75). is one of the best places to see the “new” eastern Berlin in all its up-to-the-nanosecond trendiness. 127. On the menu.

and historic architecture.” “Charlottenburg Attractions. and 31.” and “Berlin-Mitte Attractions” maps in this chapter. 25. thanks to rebuilding in Potsdamer Platz and portions of eastern Berlin. except where otherwise indicated. They’re also closed January 1. this city has more new buildings than any other city in the world. The places described in this section are my roster of the most important Berlin attractions. December 24. . Remember: Nearly all Berlin museums are closed Mondays throughout the year.Chapter 12 Exploring Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Berlin’s top attractions ᮣ Choosing a tour that’s right for you ᮣ Finding the hot shopping spots ᮣ Discovering Berlin’s performing arts and nightlife ᮣ Taking a side trip to Potsdam and the palace of Sanssouci erlin overflows with sightseeing options and diversions. although you also find picturesque parks and lakes. kids younger than 6 generally get in for free. famous avenues and riverside promenades. Plus. Note: The ages for children’s tickets always are 6 to 14. The city is particularly rich in museums. see the “TiergartenArea Attractions. and the Tuesday after Easter. For locations. B Sightseeing in Berlin Where do you begin? Do you want to spend all your time in Berlin’s fabulous museums? Saunter and shop your way down famous avenues like Unter den Linden or the Ku-Damm? See historic buildings like the Reichstag? Check out the “new” Berlin at Potsdamer Platz? You have to make some decisions because the possibilities for sightseeing in Berlin are almost endless. and at some museums children under 16 are admitted free of charge.

is a group of buildings known as the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). ߜ Museum Island (Museumsinsel): Museum Island in eastern Berlin has four of the city’s oldest museums. ߜ Dahlem: This leafy suburb. and the Reichstag (House of Parliament). ߜ Tiergarten: In or near the Tiergarten. and the Neue Nationalgalerie (with 20thcentury art). home to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery).140 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Touring by neighborhood You can save a lot of time by clustering your museum and other sightseeing visits geographically. 7. the Pergamon Museum (with the giant Pergamon altar and Middle Eastern antiquities). The main museum areas in Berlin are as follows: ߜ Charlottenburg: Across from Charlottenburg Palace are two museums worth visiting: the Museum Berggruen (with Picassos).” You can purchase the SchauLUST museum pass at any of the BERLIN infostores (for addresses. you can also visit the new DDR Museum Berlin. Berlin’s great city park. Unter den Linden.50).spk-berlin. the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (with contemporary art). Saving money with a museum pass SchauLUST Museen Berlin is a money-saving three-day museum pass that gets you into 70 top Berlin museums and collections for 15€ ($19) adults. the new Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). In this same vicinity. where you find the Filmmuseum Berlin. which you can visit before or after a guided palace tour. On the eastern edge of the Tiergarten. a restored historic neighborhood. including the museums on Museum Island in . close to Potsdamer Platz. All the state museums operated by Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (www.50) seniors and children. Gendarmenmarkt. and the Bröhan Museum (with Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture).50€ ($9. smb. and the newly reopened Bode Museum (German and Italian sculpture and the Museum of Byzantine Art). Charlottenburg Palace also has museums. “Discovering the top attractions from A to you find the BauhausArchiv. the newest area of Berlin. and histosric buildings in the palace gardens. the Alte Nationalgalerie (with 19th-century art). a baroque square. and the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). A day ticket to visit all four museums on Museum Island costs 10€ ($13). see Chapter 11). They include the Altes Museum. just a few S-Bahn stops from central Berlin. a grand boulevard. A day ticket to visit all the Dahlem museums costs 6€ ($7. the Brandenburg Gate. The Kulturforum area is within walking distance of Potsdamer Platz. which now contains the Ägyptisches Museum (with the famous bust of Nefertiti). is home to the fascinating Ethnologisches Museum with rich collections of North American Indian art and artifacts and several other museums concerned with world cultures. the adjoining Kunstgewerbe (with applied and decorative arts). The pass gains you admittance into nearly all the museums described in the next section.

sits behind the Altes Museum on Museumsinsel. dating from around 1340 B.m. and objects of gold and silver. 4€ ($5) children. Bodestrasse 1–3. Mitte Museum Island. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. and Etruscan classical antiquities.C. most of the concrete barrier that divided this city into two political entities had been razed. Renoir. when it was moved to the second floor of the beautifully restored Altes Museum on Museum Island in eastern Berlin. Mitte The Alte Nationalgalerie. but the fragments that remain are grimly essential pieces of Berlin’s tumultuous history. Other collection highlights include the small. The greatest treasure of the Egyptian Museum is the famous and fabulous bust of Queen Nefertiti. % 030/266-3660. A free audio tour in English is available. free Thurs 2–6 p.m. Am Lustgarten.m.m. including works by van Gogh. and Cézanne. and at Charlottenburg Palace. Children 16 and under are always admitted free of charge. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. (Thurs until 10 p. By 1990. A superlative collection of Greek.–6 p. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Altes Museum (Egyptian Museum and Collection of Classical Antiquities) Museum Island. 147. www. in the Kulturforum. pottery. are open free to the public on Thursdays. four hours before closing. . 4€ ($5) children. See map p. See map p. Museumsinsel. the free audio tour will help you navigate. Berlin Wall Mitte The wall that separated Berlin and Germany from 1961 to 1989 is no more. free Thurs 6–10 p. Monet. You’ll need at least two hours to cover the basics.smb. expressive head of Queen Tiy and the world-famous head of a priest in green stone. % 030/2090-5801. including sculpture. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island).–6 p.m. which looks like a Corinthian temple and contains a collection of 19th-century painting and sculpture. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). 147. you’ll find enough here to make you linger for at least an hour. pronounced mao-er) are left. is found on the first floor. Berlin-Mitte’s famous collection of Egyptian antiquities was housed in western Berlin until 2005.).m. Open: Daily 10 a. Open: Tues–Sun 10 12: Exploring Berlin 141 Berlin Mitte. One of the highlights here is the unique portraits of Caesar and Cleopatra. Roman. (Thurs until 10 p. Give yourself at least an hour just for the highlights of this rich collection.m. If you’re interested in Egyptian antiquities.m. Only two portions of the wall (Mauer in German. Manet.) Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) Museum Island.

147. See map p. bronze) from the Gothic to the neoclassical periods. the gate is crowned by the famous Quadriga. the newly modernized BodeMuseum anchoring the north end of Museum Island reopened its doors in October 2006. in every news clip. built into one of the guardhouses. one of Berlin’s most potent symbols.” This place is the only one in Berlin where you still can see a complete border area. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse. 4€ ($5) children. East Side Gallery: Mühlenstrasse along the Spree River.m.m.–6 p. The revolutionary events of 1848 and 1918. known as the Gedenkstätte und Dokumentationszentrum Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial and Documentation Center) lies between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. Museum of Byzantine Art) Museumsinsel. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. % 030/266-3666. you saw this historic monument. and Italian sculpture (marble.m. The free audio guide will help you navigate your way through the galleries. The mirrorlike stainless steel surfaces of the memorial have slits through which visitors can peer. hundreds of thousands of East Germans walked freely through the gate into West Berlin for the first time since 1961. French. The other remaining section of the wall. U-/S-Bahn: Warschauer Strasse. 147. An international group of artists painted murals on this section in 1990.m. The memorial consists of two walls that include fragments of the original wall (much of which was bulldozed away or carried off by souvenir hunters). Mitte Closed in 1999 for a complete refurbishment. visitors still gather to meditate and reflect on Germany’s past.smb. give yourself at least a full hour just to graze the highlights. . (Thurs until 10 p. wood. The museum also contains galleries with late-antique and Byzantine works and a major coin collection. In the Room of Silence (open daily 11 a.m. Here you’ll find a rich collection of German. Monbijoubrü and a documentation center with photographs and a history of the wall.142 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The East Side Gallery is a half-mile-long section on Mühlenstrasse on the banks of the Spree River in the former East Berlin. See map p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. such as those in 1989. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt (then a 5-minute walk west along the S-Bahn tracks to the Monbijou bridge which leads to the museum). Bode-Museum (Sculpture Collection.). A neoclassical triumphal arch completed in 1791. a chapel of reconciliation. Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer: between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. free Thurs 2–6 p. A plaque reads: “In memory of the division of the city from 13 August 1961 to 9 November 1989.). When the wall came down.–6 p. saw the gate used as a symbolic gathering place. www. Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) Mitte If you watched the televised fall of the Communist German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1989.m. Dutch. a fourhorse copper chariot drawn by the goddess Victoria.

Kantstr S U POTSDAMER PLATZ MarleneDietrichPlatz a em nn S ZOOLOGISCHER U GARTEN 13 str . Strasse des Ba st r.S S-Bahn str. Lützowtzowplatz Lütz ows MENDELSSOHNBARTHOLDY-PARK U r ge Einemst da be 143 BAHNHOF Tiergarten-Area Attractions r be ne tr. uer Le S p r e e ss in g- Paulstr . HansaTo Berlin-Mitte r. tr. Do str ve. nst r.25 km brücke str. rS Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin r m dam 5 Tau i en nt zi rste U KURFÜRSTENü f en r u DAMM str 3 K . tzenburger 4 U AUGSBURGER STR.str.TURMSTR.str. tr. Garten 1 Brandenburger Tor 15 Filmmuseum Berlin 12 Siemens. str llerSchi The Story of Berlin 2 PLATZ Tiergarten 8 Goethe. eh r ka e rd Ha Str. a llee Hofjägera w nd öferKlingelh str. steg BELLEVUE St Kongresshalle/ brücke Lüne b u r g e r S e e Haus der Kulturen Reichstag p r der Welt HANSAS Platz der 16 MarschallRepublik brücke VIERTEL Schloss WullenweberLutherD u l l e r s A l l ee Al Scheidemannstr. na l UNIVERSITÄT r. n Str es i ZOOLOGISCHER Harden. fürs . rge a me 1 2 tens tr. er Pot sda m Sony PotsCenter damer Leipziger 12 14Platz Platz Ebertstr. 17 s Strasse de Grosser Be llev TIERGARTEN S Stern s 17. Schlüterstr.Grünewald steg Röntgen-10 Gemäldegalerie brücke Hamburger Bahnhof DoveMuseum für brücke ARD. SAVIGNY- Kantstr. Nü rn PLATZ Post office str. S tro m st r . 11 Hey R 7 owufer eic h p ietschufer Lütz berger Ufe Schöne r taler Str. Po ts U UHLANDSTR. 13 Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium 6. OPER Bismarck U Potsdamer Platz 14 U ERNSTReichstag 16 REUTER. te steg s Bellevue brücke t o -F U ona Englischer n Brandenburger h o Pariser J HANSA. Juni ue 8 Strasse de Gr alle 17. Joachims- ten str. U S U Bauhaus–Archiv Museum hauser Str.GARTEN bergplatz 6 für Gestaltung 7 Botanischer linburger Str. -derVon dt -Str. U KURFÜRSTENSTR STR. ommsen. e See Len né tungsEntlas TECHNISCHE ane Fas Krumme rstr. PLATZ ew Platz des re Platz p 18. Kleiner Tiergarten Alt-Mo abit 0 1/4 mi N Luisenstr. Marchbrücke L ch str . r 9 10 Leibnizstr. März M rz S ni Ju . Str h il Sc Uhlandstr.Gegenwart 17 CHARDAGNERNERATZ Z Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche 5 Ot toKäthe-Kollwitz-Museum 4 Suh rKunstgewerbemuseum 9 All ee Kurfürstendamm (Ku-Damm) 3 Neue Nationalgalerie 11 DEUTSCHE str. 0 Gotzkowsky0. g Stein. Juni os se T I E R G A R T E N e rS ter na Neuer lle str. fürs lstr Niebuhr- S Kur . U U-Bahn i Information amm i Church rstend Kurfü WITTENBERGr PLATZ de i An r a n KaDeWe U U Leibniz.str. S nst 17 lide HAUPTBAHNHOF nva I LEHRTER BAHNHOF LessingWashingtonAltTIERGARTEN brücke Moabit platz Kronprinzenbrücke Moabiter Le Moltkeve Brücke tzo brücke ws Gericketr. Budap e ster . ENAUERADENAUERATZ PLATZ Lie Str. Kur r. Topographie des Terrors Pestal ozzistr. Ca S Garten Tor 15 eg tr. NOLLENDORF- GLEIS- U tr. platz üle Str. be St Tiergartenstr. hö S S Sc ANHALTER Kleis tstr. str.

Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. including Raphael’s Virgin and Child with the Infant St.).m. On the north side of the square is the Französicher Dom (French Cathedral.m. see “Raising the curtain on performing arts and music. Looking at the square today. open Tues–Sun 10 a. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Taubenstrasse). for concert information. This is a huge collection and to see it in any depth you should give yourself at least two hours. Pariser Platz. Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) Kulturforum. or theater (now also called the Konzerthaus.144 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. 143. or Concert House. with an emphasis on medieval German and Dutch art and 16th-century Italian and 17th-century Dutch painting. The centerpiece of the square is Friedrich Schinkel’s beautiful neoclassical Schauspielhaus.” later in this chapter). built for the influx of French Huguenots (Protestants) who settled in Berlin after being forced to flee Catholic France in 1685.. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Admission: Free. 143. the Gendarmenmarkt had been reduced to a pile of smoldering rubble and remained in ruins until 1977. free Thurs 6–10 p. See map p. 147.). Facing this church like a mirror image on the south side is the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you see the gate to the west). 4€ ($5) children.m.–6 p.m. % 030/22730431.–6 p. Gendarmenmarkt Mitte Twin churches inspired by Rome’s Piazza del Popolo flank this monumentally graceful baroque square — one of the most beautiful architectural ensembles in Berlin. Tiergarten The Gemäldegalerie houses Berlin’s greatest collection of European painting.m. half-hour organ concerts Tues and Fri at 12:30 p. See map p. (Thurs until 10 p. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse and Margaretenstrasse). open Tues–Sun noon to 5 p. Several Italian masterpieces are on display. The gallery contains one of the world’s largest collections of Rembrandts. Surrounding the square is a bevy of chic new restaurants. when East Berlin finally began its reconstruction. The square was named for the Gens d’Armes regiment. . it’s hard to imagine that by the end of World War II (WWII). completed in 1821.m.m. John and Bronzino’s Portrait of Ugolino Martelli. which had its guardhouse and stables here from 1738 to 1782. % 030/802-8146.m. Matthäiskirchplatz. % 030/2090-5555.).

rsdorfe W i n dscheids t r. 0 0 0. Spielhagens tr. o lf. str dt LIETZENSEEPARK e n s e ze et en Sua rezs tr. r Str.B e re Sp rüc ke Olbers- .Friedric en leb itz atz W pl Wilme Fritschestr. str. Rieh l s tr . WILMERSDORFER STR. str. 100 Christ- str. He Knobelsdorff str. Schustehrus- Seeling- str. str. Schlossbrücke Charlottenburg M SCHLOSSGARTEN ier Caprivier U brücke f er Wintersteinstr. platz Ot toBrauhofstr. bb Thrasoltzeile Str. do rff str .25 km 1/4 mi Kantstr. r Str he- Osna Mind brück er Str MIERENDORFFPLATZ U . St s rp S u f ertstr. s tr Horstweg un Horstweg SophieCharlottePlatz U SOPHIECHARLOTTEPLATZ Kaiserdamm W Bismarckstr. Kaise r- str.Str. itz Goethepark leb Pestalozzi- str. Wilmers- Sophie-C harlotte n-Str. U S-Bahn U-Bahn N CHARLOTTENBURG LiseM e itner. Beh SchustehrusPark Haubachstr.Str. helst r. BISMARCKSTRASSE dt - U str . h i e -C harl o Kam ntte Hersc Belvedere mine . Str R ud str. . RICHARDGierkeWAGNERstr. Zille. Mierendorffplatz Sop Keple rstr. Post office S U Neue Kantstr. Gardes-du-Co Luisen. W W un Li MESSE NORD/ S ICC . Kaiser. Loh- tr. U KAISERDAMM Schiller- str.str. Wulfsheinstr. Ste san ifendst r. h.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 145 Charlottenburg Attractions s t r. 100 isse ll . All ee me ye rNithack- str . Nehringstr. Mausoleum Taur ogge ner S en tr.W Bra Te g e l e r Bröhan Museum 3 Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit 2 Schloss Charlottenburg 1 CHARLOTTENBURG Schinkel Pavilion 1 mm Spandauer Da 2 Klausener3 platz WESTEND Ne r. Neue Christstr. e Sp re Schloss- Weg Sömmeringstr. Su hrStallstr.St Fritschestr .Eosanders tr. els str. platz PLATZ U aim. Wagner. Karpfenteich ener Str. F r i e dr i c h - Richard- Gierke- Danckelman n- dorfer r. Str.

–8 p..146 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) Tiergarten This showcase of contemporary art opened in 1996 in the 19th-century Hamburger Bahnhof.m.–6 p. free Thurs 2–6 p. The small modern church beside the Gedächtniskirche is an octagonal hall designed by Egon Eierman in 1961. You follow a chronological pathway occasionally interrupted by deliberately disorienting memorial spaces. Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Emperor William Memorial Church) Charlottenburg One of Berlin’s most famous landmarks. I recommend that you give yourself at least two hours.). 10€ ($13) family ticket (2 adults. Admission: 5€ ($6. portraits of prominent Jewish figures. just south of Berlin-Mitte.m.m. Sat 11 a.m. See map p. (Mon until 10 p. You can see everything in about an hour. the church later was blasted by a bomb in WWII. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. Invalidenstrasse 50–51. www. Closed on Jewish holy days. historical objects. 2 children). 4€ ($5) children. See map p. The building still retains traces of its former use. Designed by American architect Daniel Libeskind.75) students and children. Lindenstrasse 9–14. the building is shaped like a stretched-out Star of David and houses Europe’s largest Jewish museum. Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) Kreuzberg One of the most talked-about museums in Europe is located in Kreuzberg. Free organ concerts take place there every Saturday year-round at 6 p.juedisches-museumberlin.50€ ($3.m. the Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church) is a ponderous neo-Romanesque structure from the late 19th century. 143. 147. works of Jewish artists. including the high roof designed for steam engines.–8 p.m. and the ruined shell was preserved as a symbol of the ravages of war. Built to commemorate the 1871 establishment of the German Empire. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk northeast on Invalidenstrasse). % 030/397-83439.m. % 030/2599-3300. You probably won’t want to spend more than a few minutes inside. Items on display include ceremonial objects. The modern art on display dates from the second half of the 20th century and includes everything from Andy Warhol’s now legendary Mao to an audiovisual Joseph Beuys archive. and Roy Lichtenstein together with changing Open: Tues–Fri and Sun 10 a. This museum has plenty to see. and memorabilia. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor (then a 5-minute walk east on Gitschiner Strasse and north on Lindenstrasse). documents. Open: Daily 10 a. . the oldest train station in Berlin.m. Robert Rauschenberg.m.25) adults. photos. You also find a major collection of works by Cy Twombly. 2.

str hard er p in K Monbijoue . brücke st n e . ri r ALEXANDERMa BerlinerMoltkeDom 8 St S PLATZ 14 brücke (Sculpture Bode Museum Pergamon ht U ec Fernsehturm m Collection. Museum of Museum n . r. all str U ren. Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Friedrichstr. Luisen- str. str. Fernsehturm am der Welt r. März r S t r. sst Mittel9 Alexanderplatz 16 au Scheidemannstr. ns tr. Berlin Wall . t s HEINE-STR. St M üh e eit Br l en Ebertstr. Sp an da r ue r. m k str r da e S 13 12 ieb Byzantine Art) 14 s e 17 L . an st r .U str. - kn e ch t-S tr. str. r. Rathaus str. i atha 7 S c h if f r e Museum 7 de GeorgenPaul-Löbe-Allee STRASSE rleDDR Bo R . Str elms e str. Mark- Str. TIERGARTEN U 2 Be Memorial HAUSVOGTEIllev GendarmenPergamon Museum 13 (under FRANZÖSISCHE s l PLATZ ue l a construction) markt STR. MarleneZimmerstr. . Friedrichstr. r. Juni er i r s ch Museumsinsel W erd e arkt Behrenstr. r b Ale t 0 0. nd U U-Bahn J Schützenstr an Potsdamer te ten Al Platz i Information Zimmerstr. . MUSEUMSAlle e th KLOSTERSTR. n St Leipziger Post Office e Leipziger POTSDAMER Krausenstr. Moh MÄRKISCHES str. m se tr. Glinka- da mm Charlotten- Gr un er Universitätsst Friedrichstr. p r e Französische 5 e Holocaust Nikolaiviertel 6 Jägerstr. M S (Museum Island) 10 Str. Platz K S S-Bahn r Str. -KolmarGertrud Str.U . UNTER DEN a 6 R INSEL Gendarmenmarkt 2 LINDEN Brandenburger U NIKOLAIden Lin Jüdisches Museum 4 SchlossS 1 n Tor de BebelVIERTEL Unter St platz Pariser Platz des platz Mauermuseum Haus am r s a de la u e Platz Strasse 18. r tr. it (Gedenkstätte Kronprinzenpark platz “Berliner Mauer”) 15 r. r t s W l l a U U Bel Voss. erstr. S p Ka Deutsches Historisches 11 str Haus der 10 8 Platz der Museum 9 Reichstag Kulturen LustRepublik garten Dorotheenstr. AlexanderR M Berlin Wall oab platz S l. Str. tr. u u r ba e st FRIEDRICH. ied e TaubenUnter den Linden 1 erw urstr Rungestr. PLATZ o e m a d m s t U Po ma S . W Schwules Museum 12 U N alle K str. tstr rech Alb Tuch olsk yst St fer Kup Oberwall- r. N e u e str. 3 4 rstr. str. Mau t r. Jerusalemer Ge r tr au d elms Wilh en str .HAUPTBAHNHOF r. . U STADTMITTE KronenMUSEUM L e n né . Checkpoint Charlie 3 17. lev SPITTELMARKT Leipziger ues Jak o b HEINRICH. gra b en str.str.25 km s Dirck HACKESCHER xa Lie s en (East Side Gallery) 5 tnd MARKT Washington. DietrichNiederkirchne Platz Kochstr. er-S Wilh ak ob str . grafen- tr. MOHRENSTR. rst ue Ma xelSp ring Charlottens A LEHRTER BAHNHOF Mü Alte Nationalgalerie 12 0 1/4 mi nzs 16 15 S tr. 147 Berlin-Mitte Attractions er KOCHSTR. Ora Altes Museum 11 nie N n b u r g e r S tr . tr. str.

new church daily 9 a. and people-watch. Of special interest are the paintings by early. built in 1542 for the Prince-Electors (Kurfürsten) to reach their hunting lodge in the Grünewald more easily. 4. The street still is a wonderful place to shop. It’s currently going through a rebuilding phase to spruce itself up and lure people back from eastern Berlin. Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Wall Museum at Checkpoint Charlie) Kreuzberg If you’re interested in the history of the Berlin Wall. contains a small but impressive collection of international 20th-century painting and sculpture. Kurfürstendamm Tiergarten The famous boulevard known as the Ku-Damm is western Berlin’s answer to Paris’s Champs-Elysées.m. Mark Rothko. hot-air balloons. 147. and attempted escape devices (chairlifts.–7 p. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (you are on the Ku-Damm when you exit the station). sit. Kurfürstendamm at Breitscheidplatz. Admission: 9.m.m. designed in 1968 by famed German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe.–4 p. Dalí. % 030/253-7250. Admission: Free.m. 143. lively. even a minisub) used by East Germans may give you a new take on the meaning of freedom. the museum documents the wall’s history from its construction in 1961 to its fall in 1989 to 1990.50€ ($12) adults. an enormous expanse of glass windows and simple symmetry. 143. Tiergarten The only “old” structure in the aggressively modern Kulturforum complex is the New National Gallery. and two bitter and brilliant oils by .75€ ($6) children and students.mauermuseum.m. Max Ernst. Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery) Kulturforum.. Miró. The photographs. the Ku-Damm was the most brilliant. The museum. Open: Daily 9 a. filled with legendary cafes and renowned for its nightlife. Open: Memorial church Mon–Sat 10 a. Located near what once was Checkpoint Charlie. false passports. For years the Ku-Damm hogged all the city’s glamour because dreary East Berlin had nothing to rival it. and elegant street in this part of Berlin. stroll. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk south on Budapester Strasse). See map p. Friedrichstrasse 43–45. com. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse (then a 5-minute walk north on Friedrichstrasse).–10 p. newspaper clippings. including works by de Chirico. From the start of the 20th century until WWII. and Otto Dix. See map on p. Today’s busy commercial artery began as nothing more than a humble log road. % 030/218-5023. and Frank mid-20th-century German artists Max Beckmann. the most frequently used traffic crossing into East Berlin. this small museum in Kreuzberg is well worth an hour of your time.m.148 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map on p. www.

supermodern showcase of corporate glitz.).). the altar was discovered in 1876 in western Turkey. The Near East Museum in the museum’s south wing contains one of the largest collections anywhere of antiquities from ancient Babylonia.). free Thurs 6–10 p.m. the square was cut off from the western sector by the wall and became an ugly strip of mined no-man’s-land. (Thurs until 10 p. and entertainment. And what you must see is the Pergamon Altar. Today. To experience the area. will undergo an internal and external face-lift (costing 351€ million /$ 420 million) starting in 2011. Potsdamer Strasse 50. the Berlin Casino. the Kulturforum. 147. Mitte Of all the museums on Museum Island. Potsdamer Platz Tiergarten Before WWII. See map on p. The entire museum. the renowned Pergamon Museum is the one must-see (along with the bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti in the Altes Museum). restaurants. a Roman building facade from the time of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (around A.m.–6 p. Sat–Sun 11 a. you find the Stella Musical Theater. Persia. 165). dating from 180 to 160 B. you’ll understand why. Pergamon Museum Museum Island.–6 p.–6 p. one of the most popular in the city.m. stroll along the Potsdamer Platz Arcades. See map p. % 030/2090-5577. (Thurs until 10 p. Am Kupfergraben. 143.D. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (you are on Potsdamer Platz as you exit the station). Around newly created Marlene-Dietrich-Platz. Potsdamer Platz was the busiest spot in Berlin. and the Cine-Max cinema center.m. After reunification.m. corporations like Sony and Mercedes-Benz rushed in and bought the entire area. In 1961. free admission Thurs 6–10 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. When you see its grim facade. 4€ ($5) children and students. and the Tiergarten. where 140 stores. .C. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a.m.m. See map p. and Assyria.m. which has two movie theaters and a viewing area from which you can look out over the Philharmonie.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk south on Potsdamer Strasse). government offices.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 149 George Grosz that capture the decadent despair of the Weimar years in the 1920s. Another showpiece is the ornate two-storied Market Gate of Miletus. % 030/266-2951. The gallery also is used for special traveling exhibitions. the Madison City Suites. Potsdamer Platz is a brand-new. Part of the enormous Temple of Zeus and Athena. the Grand Hyatt Hotel. upscale housing. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to the Museum Island). 4€ ($5) students and children.m. considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and still holding its own today. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. One of the most visited attractions is the Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz (% 030/2094-5400).. 143. and cafes invite you to shop and relax.

See map p. The buildings. . so I don’t include it in this guide. where a sweeping vista of Berlin opens out before you. Allied bombs destroyed part of the Reichstag in WWII.150 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Museumsinsel (Museum Island): Art by decree Five museums on an island in the River Spree form the oldest museum complex in Berlin and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The massive Pergamon Museum. used the incident as an opportunity to seize power. Reichstag (House of Parliament) Tiergarten The Reichstag is the seat of the reunified German Parliament. The museums were the main attractions in old East Berlin. you take an elevator up to the dome. too. I recommend that you arrive as early as possible. the street that follows the river). otherwise. Built in a pompous high-Renaissance style between 1884 and 1894. blaming the fire on the Communists. The domed neo-baroque Bode Museum at the far northern end of the island and the Altes Museum with its Egyptian and classical antiquities collections reopened in 2005 and 2006 respectively after extensive interior modernization. some dating back to the early and mid 19th century. who. Platz der Republik. Scientific. After reunification.–10 p. UNESCO is the United Nations Educational. the building was partially destroyed by a fire in 1933 that probably was set by the Nazis. yellow baroque palace was built in 1695 as a breezy summer abode for Sophie Charlotte. will close in 2011 for several years while it. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west along the Reichstagufer. After a security check.m. but the other four museums are definitely worth exploring. Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) Charlottenburg The oldest section of this lovely. were constructed after Frederick William III issued a decree stipulating that the privately owned artwork of the royal family needed to be made accessible to the public. Admission: Free. The Neues Museum is closed until 2008. a new glass dome designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster crowns the building. The dome also has an outdoor observation area and a rooftop restaurant with so-so food (reservations % 030/226-2990).m. % 030/2273-2131. you may have to stand in line for up to three hours before getting in. one of the most popular museums in Berlin. Today. Its present form dates from 1790. Open: Dome daily 8 a. the wife of Friedrich I. and Cultural Organization. 143. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the first to reopen its doors after undergoing post-reunification refurbishment. Much of the palace was destroyed in WWII and painstakingly reconstructed. gets a much-needed makeover. a complicated process of restoring the buildings and reuniting various collections from the East and West began.

which is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. 145. (Tiergarten also is the name of Berlin’s smallest neighborhood. which is described in the “Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium)” listing later in this chapter. This former royal teahouse contains exquisite Berlin porcelain.spsg. The Berlin Zoo. See map p. and Schlossgarten 8€ ($10) adults. and pretty Schloss (Palace) Bellevue (S-Bahn: Bellevue). and to take that tour you have to don huge felt slippers (so you’re effectively polishing the wood floors as you slide around after the guide). With a combined ticket. mile) and is the most popular green space in central Berlin. is the Belvedere. the living quarters of Friedrich I and Sophie Charlotte. give yourself a couple of hours. To see the palace and museums.–5 p. to 5 p.m. the residence of Germany’s president. km (1 sq. close to the Spree River. displays the famous Schliemann collection of antiquities from Troy. occupies the park’s southwestern corner. The tour is given only in German (you can buy an English-language guidebook at the ticket counter) and includes the historical rooms. 3€ ($ 3. much of it from the 1700s. and flower beds restored to their original patterns.und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History). Open: Palace and museums Tues–Sun 9 a. the Tiergarten park is a great place to stroll and relax.25) children. an Italianate summer house designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel.m. with its fine collection of paintings from the neoclassical. Galerie der Romantik. the eye-catching porcelain room. you need at least four to five hours.m. as a private park for the electors of Prussia. (last tour at 5 p. The park was devastated during and just after WWII.). and the beautifully landscaped Schlossgarten (palace gardens). you find the Hansaviertel (Hansa Quarter). a golden goddess of victory perched high atop a red-granite pedestal. trees were replanted and walkways. In the northwestern corner. in the Langhansbau wing. you find the charming Schinkel Pavilion. % 0331/969-4202.5 sq. and Biedermeier periods. At the far end of the Schlossgarten.50) adults. U-Bahn: SophieCharlotte-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Schlossstrasse).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 151 You can see the palace only on a tour. Admission: Combination ticket for historical rooms. the leading architect of the day. on your own. additionally visit the Galerie der Romantik. The Siegessäule (Victory Column).) With its lawns. is the most famous of the Tiergarten’s .75) children for this museum. and more than 23km (14 miles) of meandering paths. one of the great landscape architects of the early 19th century. canals. you can. If you just want to stroll. “animal garden”) covers almost 2. www.m. Tiergarten Tiergarten The popular Tiergarten (literally. 5€ ($6. You must pay a separate admission of 6€ ($ 7. It was originally was laid out by Peter Josef Lenné. in 1825.m. and the royal chapel. Romantic. when desperate citizens chopped down the trees for fuel. The Museum für Vor. Beginning in 1955. leafy trees. In the Schlossgarten. ponds. Luisenplatz. a residential area where architects were invited to build projects in the

% 030/25-40-10. Unter den Linden Mitte Laid out in 1647 and extending a bit more than a kilometer (3⁄4 mile) east from the Brandenburg Gate.25) for adults. which means “under the lindens. S-Bahn: Tiergarten or Bellevue. With kids in tow you can easily spend half a day in the zoo and aquarium. luxury car showrooms. many of them in open habitats. This boulevard is the oldest and royalest in central Berlin. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. and cafes. Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium) Tiergarten Founded in 1844. amphibians. Germany’s oldest and Europe’s largest zoo occupies almost the entire southwest corner of the Tiergarten. The zoo also has a modern aviary. Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s most famous and historically significant streets. and Potsdamer Platz.) observation on the east by Berlin-Mitte.50€ .) squats at the end of Unter den Linden. open daily 9 a. www. The aquarium is home to more than 9.000 animals live here. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or Hansaplatz. Admission is 1€ ($ 1.000 fish. 143. to 6:30 p.aquarium-berlin. The Zeughaus (Armory). The giant Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral.152 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany many monuments.–8 p. 5. 143. the Brandenburg Gate. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you are on the avenue as you exit the station). Berlin’s largest baroque building and the first (1706) major building to be constructed on Unter den Linden. with several monumental buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Admission: Zoo 11€ ($14) adults. the oldest of Berlin’s three opera houses. reached by climbing up a 290-step spiral staircase. Following reunification. and other creatures. The name. Friedrich Schinkel’s 1818 Neue Wache (New Watch) served as headquarters for the King’s Guard and now contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Tomb of the Unknown Resistance Fighter. houses the Deutsches Museum (see the later section on “Finding more cool things to see and do”).m. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (the entrance is a 3-minute walk east on Budapester Strasse). Bus: 100.m. See map p. reptiles. www. is also located 147. a wide boulevard that bisects the Tiergarten and is the western extension of Unter den Linden. The most popular residents are the giant pandas.” came from the linden trees that were originally planted along the street.m. The hippoquarium is a new attraction. with more than 550 species of birds. See map p. Bounded on the west by Bahnhof Zoo and the Europa Center. Hardenbergplatz 8. More than 13. The column’s 48m-high (157-ft. free for children younger than 12.m. See map p. Lustgarten. insects. The column stands in the center of the Strasse des 17 Juni. is open daily from 9:30 a. the historically significant buildings along Unter den Linden were spruced up and the avenue filled up with souvenir shops.

and crafts. 2. a completely decorated set of rooms from a luxurious private residence of the 1920s and 1930s.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 153 ($7) children. which sought to combine art. is one of the last works of the great Berlin-born architect Walter Gropius. to 6 p. Give yourself an hour or so to stroll through the garden itself.50€ ($7) children. The museum. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). free for children 12 and younger. 4€ ($5) children younger than 12. www. houses one of the world’s finest collections of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and Art Deco furniture. Klingelhöferstrasse 14 (% 030/254-0020. Here are additional places that you may find of interest. Open: Zoo Mar 15–Oct 14 daily 9 a. aquarium year-round daily 9 a. U-Bahn: Dahlem–Dorf). of more interest to dedicated gardeners than the general public. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1 (% 030/847-123-731.–6:30 p. contains vast collections of European and exotic plants. Schlossstrasse 1A (% 030/3269-0600. silverware.ddr-museum.m. hands-on experience of everyday life in the Communist DDR (Deutsche Democratische Republik.m. You need at least an hour to peruse the exhibits. Berlin newest new museum. The garden is open daily from 9 a. Admission is 5€ ($6. near the Tiergarten. aquarium 11€ ($14) adults. before the Nazis forced the school to disband in 1933. is open Wednesday through Monday from 10 a. You also find an extensive arboretum and several special collections.m. located near the Dahlem Museums on the outskirts of Berlin.m. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.–5 p. ߜ Berlin’s Botanischer Garten (Botanical Garden). to 5 p. ߜ The Bauhaus–Archiv Museum für Gestaltung (BauhausDesign Museum). painting. including a garden for blind visitors and another with water plants. glass. A small botanical museum (open daily 10 a.. The Palm House is one of the largest in the world. www.m. to gardens and many other places to visit — you won’t be lacking of things to do.m.25).). The museum. brohan-museum. ߜ The DDR Museum. Königin-LuiseStrasse 6–8 (% 030/8385-0100.–6 p. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 at and finally settled in Berlin. free on first Wednesday of every month. ߜ The Bröhan€ ($3) for children.m.m. The museum is small enough that you can see everything in an hour. all from 1889 to 1939. Admission is 7€ ($9) adults. is dedicated to the Bauhaus school. is also on the premises. Finding more cool things to see and do Berlin is full of museums.m. offers an interesting. A must-see is the Suite Emile-Jacques Ruhlman.m. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). completed in 1979. English-language texts and audio guides describing the exhibits are available.–6 p. . sculpture.50€ ($) children.botanischer-gartenberlin. 8. www.m. and technology. de.25) for adults.. Oct 15–Mar 14 daily 9 a. Admission is 5€ ($6. 5. moved to Dessau.m. www. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten. combined ticket 17€ ($25) adults.

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Berliners call it “the speared onion” because of its shape.m. Sony Center in Potsdamerstrasse 2 (% 030/300-9030. in English) before the fall of the wall in 1989.50) for adults. props. to 6 p. it’s a sobering experience.m. the forest’s western border. ߜ The Filmmuseum Berlin..m. and 3€ ($3. Alexanderplatz (% 030/242-3333.m.m. while the eastern border is roughly marked off by four lakes: .filmmuseum-berlin. I would recommend that you visit the first-floor galleries devoted to World War II. is a weird-looking television tower built by the Communists back in the 1960s.-km (15-sq. From Heerstrasse.). ߜ The Grünewald (S-Bahn: Grünewald). open doors. ߜ The Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). admission is 4€ ($5).m.154 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany called the GDR. The museum is open daily from 10 a. The entire history of German cinema is documented in rare film clips from the silent era up to the present.) Admission is 5€ ($6. to midnight. One wing is devoted to the legendary Marlene Dietrich. is open daily from 10 a. (Thurs until 8 p. this one is exhaustive and can be exhausting because it attempts to cover 2. Like many German museums.50) for children under 16. letters. Visitors can sit in a Trabi. The rooms are set up chronologically.m.m. a native Berliner who catapulted to international fame in 1930 in Josef von Sternberg’s Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel) and went on to become Germany’s only major star in Hollywood.dhm.50€ ($4. The museum. Panoramastrasse 1a. and daily November through February from 10 a. a 39-sq. and rummage through drawers and closets. Admission is 6€ ($7.m. or German Democratic You need at least an hour here. to midnight. www. is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. An elevator whisks you up to the top for a stunning panorama. www. appeals to anyone who has an interest in German film or film in general. The tower is open daily March through October from 9 a. the DDR’s version of a car. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). Unter den Linden 2 (% 030/20304-444. to 6 p. You find a revolving restaurant (the Telecafe) up there. Personally. The fascinating Marlene memorabilia includes explore a typical DDR living room. (Sat until 10 p. to 8 p.berliner fernsehturm.m. The elevator to the top costs 8€ ($10) for adults and years of German history in pictures and documents. the forest stretches some 10km (6 miles) south to the popular Wannsee lake. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). located on the Spreepromenade directly opposite the Berlin Cathedral. and documents. www. too. nostalgic charm to many of the exhibits.75) for students. winds past several picturesque bays and beaches along the Havel River.25). ߜ The Fernsehturm am Alexanderplatz (Television Tower). Havelchausee.-mile) forest that begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm. is a new museum housed in the old Zeughaus (Armory). There’s a kind of heartfelt. costumes.

U-Bahn: Mehringdamm). in the heart of what has been for decades the gay heart of Berlin.prinz-eisenherz. lesbian and gay life has centered around Nollendorfplatz (U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). Schlachtensee. The Schwules Museum (Gay Museum). and other political victims. the Grünewald (Green Forest) is a good place to get away from the urban U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Prenzlauer Berg has become the new gay area. and Schildhorn. Lietzenburger Strasse 9a (% 030/313-9936.25). although on weekends you have plenty of company. Loaded with wooded paths and sandy beaches. Mehringdamm 61 (% 030/6959-9050. Nollendorfplatz is the site of the Lesbisch-Schwules Stadtfest (LesbianGay Street Fair).” later in this chapter.. Admission is 5€ ($6. More information on gay life in Berlin is available on the Web site www. Gypsies. The first woman ever . is devoted to the powerful works of Berlinborn artist Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945). Grünewaldsee. ߜ The Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum. Another good source for information is Eisenherz Buchladen. nonfiction. The Homosexual Victims of National Socialism). The Christopher Street Day parade is an even larger citywide gay event that takes place the last week in June. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 155 Gay and lesbian Berlin Berlin has a century-old gay and lesbian history. In mid-June. In the eastern part of the city. see “Checking out the dance clubs and bars. the so-called Pink (or Gay) Village. and magazines in German. www. Den Homosexuellen Opfern des National Socialismus (Killed and Forgotten. one of the world’s oldest gay and lesbian bookstores.m. Love Parade/Love Week in July attracts thousands to a huge gay party scene. www. The staff is knowledgeable and helpful.m. and the city remains a mecca for international gay and lesbian travelers. www. art books. Saturday until 5 p.000 people congregate for this Gay Pride festival. Berlin is the only city in the world with a gay museum. which has had gay bars since the 1920s. Fasanenstrasse 24 (% 030/882-5210. Kreuzberg is another gay-friendly borough with a big selection of bars. to 8 The gay scene is more international in the area around Krumme Lanke. The center is open Monday through Friday from 5 to 9 p. Bülowstrasse 106 (% 030/216-3336. The city’s gay information center is Mann-oMeter.m. and other A memorial plaque mounted on the outside south wall of the Nollendorfplatz subway station. S-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). The store. reads: Totgeschlagen-Totgeschiegen.m.schwulesmuseum. Also see Chapter 9. stocks a vast array of new and rare fiction. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder that the Nazis exterminated thousands of homosexuals in addition to millions of Jews. open daily from 10 a. is a large gallery-like space in Kreuzberg with changing exhibitions on gay life in Germany and around the world. English. up to For my recommended gay and lesbian nightspots. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 2 to 6 p.

Saturday and Sunday 11 a. The Guelph Treasure.m. to 6 p. ߜ Kunstgewerbemuseum (Arts and Crafts Museum). ߜ The Story of Berlin. Nikolaikirchplatz.m. and 3€ ($3. the church was restored in time for the city’s 750th anniversary in 1987. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Admission is 8€ ($10) for adults. The Nazis later banned her works. The basement rooms display contemporary design from the German Bauhaus school to American Charles Eames and the Memphis design group.). is an enjoyable multimedia museum that uses films. adjoining the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery. Reconstructed palaces. Kurfürstendamm 207–208 (% 030/8872-0100.m.m. Schlossstrasse 1 (% 030/3269-5819. loss. Braque. Named for Berlin’s oldest church.25) for adults. period taverns. to 6 p. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 11 a. and Giacometti. You also find a nice cafeteria. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). Matisse. . a small museum located across from the Egyptian Museum in Charlottenburg. not far from the Gendarmenmarkt in Berlin Mitte. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. Ku’damm-Karree.m. and colorful displays to tell about eight centuries of life in Berlin. U-/S-Bahn: Mendelssohn–Bartholdy–Park).75) for children and students. Kulturforum (% 030/2090-5555. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Admission is 6€ ($7. Nicholas. Admission is 5€ ($6. down narrow streets illuminated by gas lanterns. open from 10 a. its most dazzling exhibit.m. ߜ Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter.. Beginning with the city’s founding in 1237. photos. the quarter was the last major reconstruction project of the German Democratic Party that ruled former East Germany. open Tues–Sun 10 a. You can see the collection in about half an hour.50) for adults. the upper floors contain sculptures. to 6 p. to 4:30 p. including the reign of Frederick the Great. Kollwitz resigned her position in 1933 to protest Hitler’s rise to power. is a collection of medieval church articles in gold and silver. displays applied arts and crafts from the Middle Ages through the present day. The lower floors of the museum display woodcuts and lithographs.m. showcases several important paintings by Picasso and works by Klee. the Industrial Revolution.–6 p.75) for students and children. the Nikolaikirche (Church of St. and deprivations of wartime and have a stark. WWII and its aftermath. to 6 p. the Golden 1920s.m. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse). grieving quality. 4€ ($5) for children. your ticket for the Gemäldegalerie will get you in. 3€ ($3. is a historic riverside quarter restored to resemble its medieval and baroque heyday (with a few modern design touches).156 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany elected to the Prussian Academy of the Arts. the themed exhibits chronicle all the major historical events.m.m. Matthäiskirchplatz. and old churches make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque ramble along the Spree River.m. sounds. % 030/ 2472-4529.m. ߜ Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit (Berggruen Museum: Picasso and His Times). see earlier description). Many of Kollwitz’s works express the sorrow.

to 6 p. The exhibit is open daily from 10 a. From April through October. which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and passes most of the major sites in western and eastern Berlin. and covers more sites (and includes add-ons like Potsdam or a river cruise). (last admission 6 p. is an open-air exhibit detailing how the Nazis came to power and the crimes against humanity they committed under the leadership of der Führer.m.m. on foot. Departures are Tuesday through Sunday at 10 a.severinkuehn-berlin. located in what once was part of the Nazi SS and Gestapo headquarters. the Brandenburg Gate. Bus tours Severin+Kühn.m. 7. and Sundays.m.. ߜ Topographie des Terrors (Topography of Terror).50€ ($4. to 8 p. 2 children). You can catch the double-decker bus in front of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). daily. The price is 37€ ($46) per person.m.50€ ($9) for students. Saturday. including the Europa Center. Although you don’t get a guide.30€ ($12) for adults. Admission is 9. May–Sept). the cheapest bus tour of Berlin is public bus 100. All tours include a guide who delivers commentaries in German and English. offers a two-hour “City Circle Tour” that departs daily every half-hour from 10 a. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). The tour passes 14 important stops in Berlin. At the end of the tour. (Nov–Mar until 3 p.m. with an additional 2:15 p. and Potsdamer Platz.m. a guide takes you down to visit an underground nuclear bomb shelter built in the 1970s.m. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. and Sunday at 10 a. www. to 6 p.m. (until 8 p. head upstairs to the front seats for the best views. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). tour on Fridays. site of the palace of Sanssouci. and the fall of the wall.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 157 divided Berlin during the Cold War. Severin+Kühn also conducts an interesting tour of Potsdam. Admission is free. Thursday. This attraction is a good overall introduction to Berlin that teens may enjoy. making them accessible and enjoyable for kids and adults.m. . Severin+Kühn offers its Potsdam/Sanssouci tour on Tuesday. The museum is open daily from 10 a. Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour Taking a guided sightseeing tour (Stadtrundfahrt) can help you to see parts of this huge city that you may otherwise miss. Tickets cost 20€ ($25) per person. Allow at least two hours to see everything. Adolf Hitler. and 2 p. From November through March.m. You can get on and off the bus at any point during the hour. 3. former residence of Frederick the Great (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter).).50) for children.m. You can tour Germany’s capital with an experienced guide by or by boat.). Saturdays.m. and 21€ ($26) for families (2 adults. The same company’s three-hour “Big Berlin Tour” departs at 10 a.m. costs 22€ ($27) per person. Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 (% 030/2548-6703.

free for children younger than 14. or three days at your disposal? The itineraries in this section are common-sense.158 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Walking tours For an excellent introduction to Berlin and its history. “Infamous Third Reich Sites” focuses on the sites of major Nazi buildings in central Berlin. “Discover Berlin” is a three-hour introductory tour that takes you past the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Mondays from March through September. and 2:30 p. available March through October. limited-time suggestions that include the top Berlin sights. 10€ ($13) for those younger than 26. the Königliche Bibliothek (Royal Library). on Sunday. this tour. tour from April through September (Sat only at 1 p.m. Following an Itinerary Every visitor to Berlin faces one problem: how to see as much as possible in a limited amount of time. Boat tours A boat tour is the most unusual way to see portions of Berlin. For a quick and interesting take on Berlin from the water. and the monumental heart of the former East Berlin. see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z” earlier in this chapter.m. starts at 2:30 p.berlinwalks. offers boat trips from April through October. The same company offers other boat tours from Jannowitzbrücke in Berlin-Mitte Schlossbrücke near Charlottenburg Palace. Pushkinallee 60–70 (% 030/536-3600. among other major sites. and you’ll find several landing docks with waiting boats. For descriptions of most of the stops. you can request an English translation). What do you see if you have only one. on Saturday. two. only).m.m. www. with an additional Wednesday 10 a.sternundkreis. Tours last from 21⁄2 to 3 hours and cost 12€ ($15) for adults. 10 a.und Kreisschiffahrt.m. (Nov–Mar at 10 a. . You don’t need advance reservations for any of the tours. Several other companies offer boat tours as well. Local waterways include the Spree and Havel rivers — ranging in size from narrow channels to large lakes — in addition to the many canals created in the 19th century. the one-hour “Inner City” trip (8€/$10) departing from Nikolaiviertel offers good views of the Reichstag. just walk along the Spreepromenade behind the Berlin cathedral. in front of the taxi stand. that all of its tours are given only in German (on most tours.m. the tour starts at 10 a. such as Goebbels’s Propaganda Ministry and Hitler’s New Reichschancellery. www. the Pergamon Museum. “Jewish Life in Berlin” takes you through the prewar Jewish community. Be aware.m. Stern. who wears a Berlin Walks badge. Nov–Mar). outside the main entrance to Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). You meet the guide. and Hafen Treptow. the city’s best-known boat This walk starts daily at 10 a. try one of the English-language walking tours offered by Original Berlin Walks (% 030/ 301-9194. though.m.

First visit the Reichstag. But keep in mind that you’ll pay less for goods made in Germany and the European Union than for goods imported to Germany from the United States.m. Many stay open late on Thursday evenings.m. to 6 or 6:30 p. Some stores in highly trafficked areas (such as the Hauptbahnhof) are open on Sunday. or a cabaret/variety show. visiting the palace of Sanssouci and grounds (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). stop in at Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. Afterward. For the two major Trödelmarkts (flea markets). to 2 p. . Shopping for Local Treasures Berlin is a great shopping city and you can find just about anything you want. In the afternoon. where the new dome provides a marvelous view out over the city. Most stores in Berlin are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 159 If you have one day in Berlin Start early.” earlier). then walk down Unter den Linden. In the evening.m. and their prices are lower here than in the United States. for example. German porcelain. enjoy an opera. In the evening.m. followed by a visit to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) and the Neue Nationalgalerie. and then go on to Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) for a palace tour. see the “Berlin flea markets” sidebar. exploring the nearby Gendarmenmarkt and paying a brief visit to the Pergamon Museum to see the Pergamon Altar and/or the Altes Museum to view the famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti. china. crystal. take a walking or bus tour of Berlin (see “Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour. If you have two days in Berlin On the second day. From there you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. symbol of Berlin. but Sunday shopping is otherwise not common. with its Cold War museum. and cutlery.m. Return to Potsdamer Platz to see the newest section of Berlin. often to 8:30 p. head over to the Jüdisches Museum in Freuzberg or explore the Tiergarten. are prized for their quality. Don’t expect a lot of “deals” in Berlin. If you have three days in Berlin Spend half of the third day in Potsdam. and end with a stroll down Unter den Linden or the Kurfürstendamm. both in the Kulturforum. Saturday hours usually are from 9 or 10 a. walk along the Kurfürstendamm and dine in a local restaurant. a concert. except on the sales racks in the department stores.

adjacent to the Tiergarten S-Bahn station near the corner of the Bachstrasse and Strasse des 17 Juni. the only decent shopping was in western Berlin. nostalgia. and Nürnberger Strasse. The specialty stores on the side streets around the Ku-Damm. check out the flea market at Arkonaplatz (% 030/786-9764. outdoor retail “passage” created right on the Ku-Damm at Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).m. sort-of antiques. and records. especially between Breitscheidplatz and Olivaer Platz. Stores here often are cheaper than on the fancier KuDamm. and 6 p. If nothing catches your fancy. short for Kurfürstendamm (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). to 5 p.m. The same times apply to the flea market at Heidestrasse (% 030/452-9924. including books. But. . many specializing in German fashions for women. line the street. close to Ku-Damm. This area offers a wide array of stores. which remains the best place for allpurpose. trendier. The shopping scene has definitely moved east as well. here you’ll find antiques and collectibles. an upscale. and used clothing. but the stores there tend to be newer.160 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Shopping in western Berlin Throughout the decades when the wall divided Berlin. truth to tell. which is currently undergoing a piecemeal renovation/face-lift to bring it up to par with eastern Berlin and lure back shoppers. Ranke Strasse.. U-Bahn: Reinickendorfer Strasse). where you can browse for clothing and bric-a-brac. here you find around 75 shops joined by restaurants and cafes. just take a seat at one of the many cafes around Arkonaplatz and enjoy the scene in one of Berlin’s hippest neighborhoods. in addition to stores carrying cheap souvenirs and T-shirts. Neighborhoods and malls The main shopping boulevard in the western part of Berlin is the famous Ku-Damm. but it’s best to come early because many traders leave by midafternoon. is the favorite weekend shopping spot for countless Berliners.m. Berlin flea markets A flea market in Germany is called a Trödelmarkt or a Flohmarkt. The market is open every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. are good shopping grounds. Europa Center has lost much of its allure and looks dated compared to the newly opened Neues Kranzler Eck. Quality stores. Another good shopping street in western Berlin. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse). who come to find pieces of kitsch. If you’re in Mitte on Sunday between 10 a. the Europa Center (% 030/3480088). all-around shopping. S-Bahn: Tiergarten). Berlin’s first shopping mall.m. furniture. is on Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). is Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) and its intersecting streets: Marburger Strasse. porcelain. and more expensive. The Berliner Trödelmarkt (no phone.

is a couture hatmaker inspired by vintage fashion magazines and glamorous . Wertheim. and. Some of the stores offer cost-cutting clothing and housewares. one of the most comprehensive shopping malls in Berlin. Shoppers interested in quality at any price need to head to Kempinski Plaza. Kurfürstendamm 231 (% 030/ 880-030. and Sophienstrasse. Chapeaux Hutmode Berlin. clothing for the entire family. with more being added all the time. at Uhlandstrasse 170 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Bleibgrün. scattered over three levels. but here are some lesser-known retail venues that may be of interest to fashionistas. Bleibtreustrasse 30 (% 030/885-0080. Bleibtreustrasse 51 (% 030/312-0913. Rosenthaler Strasse. including haute-couture women’s clothing. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). electrical devices. Uhlandstrasse 181–183 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). The spaces within the courtyards have now been turned into a series of galleries. known for its six floors of upscale merchandise and sixth-floor food department. Fashion Every big-name designer you can think of has a store in Berlin. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). studios. is a huge department store. Bogner Zenker-Berlin. jewelry. Grosse Hamburger Strasse. The Uhland-Passage. home to some of the most exclusive boutiques in the city. Kurfürstendamm 42 (% 030/881-1000. The area later became Berlin’s Jewish quarter. Cutting-edge shops line the streets around the arcade. Department stores Kaufhaus des Westens (called KaDeWe [ka-day-vay] for short). You find trendier boutiques along Bleibtreustrasse. Tauentzien 21 (% 030/21210. or “barn district” (S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). is good for travel aids and general basics: perfumes. a small. A grand pre–World War I shopping arcade with interconnected courtyards (Hinterhöfe) occupies most of the block formed by Oranienburger Strasse. amazingly. Wertheim has a large restaurant with a view over half the city. arts. contains about 100 shops. and happening neighborhood area is eastern Berlin’s Scheuneviertel. and souvenirs. and theaters. some of its oldest buildings survived the World War II bombing raids that reduced most of Berlin to rubble. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). household goods. photography supplies. named for the hay barns that once stood here. has some of the best boutiques and big-name stores in Berlin. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Austria. The new Potsdamer Platz Arkaden (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). fashionable women’s shoe store with a helpful staff. and Italy. is a long-established shop for men’s and women’s clothing made in Germany.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 161 Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel The newest shopping.

variety shows. Kurfürstendamm 226 (% 030/8856340. Kantstrasse 106 (% 030/324-3582. is at the Berliner Markthalle. and theater performances every night of the week. Savignyplatz 13 Passage (% 030/ 3180-2354. Perfumes Harry Lehmann. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorferstrasse). For more shopping in the eastern part. Porcelain and china Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur (KPM. Discovering Nightlife in Berlin You find more going on in Berlin than in any other city in Germany. with hundreds of bars. is a wonderfully old-fashioned parfumerie where most of the scents come from old family recipes. Treykorn. and leaves.162 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany movies from the 1930s. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Meissener Porzellan. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). clubs. dance. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). The largest shopping mall in eastern Berlin. . The performing-arts scene is jammed with opera. The main street. Rosenthal.and 19th-century KPM designs. see “Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel. Royal Porcelain Factory). grasses. now offers some of Berlin’s most elegant shopping. carries the most avant-garde jewelry in Berlin. showcasing more than three dozen of the boldest jewelry artisans in the city. sculptures. with upmarket boutiques selling everything from women’s fashions to Meissen porcelain. offers an array of Meissen dinner plates. The prices are amazingly reasonable for the quality of the perfumes. orchestra and chamber concerts. one of the most famous porcelain manufacturers in Europe. and chandeliers. is the place to go for contemporary Rosenthal porcelain and china from Bavaria. Friedrichstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).” in this chapter. distilled from flowers. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). offering a little bit of everything. sells porcelain pieces hand-painted and handdecorated with patterns based on traditional 18th. Kurfürstendamm 27 in Kempinski Hotel Bristol (% 030/8867-2110. Charlottenstrasse 34 (% 030/20458166. and cabarets appealing to every taste. Berlin’s nightlife is legendary. Shopping in eastern Berlin The eastern part of the city has undergone major changes in the retail sector since reunification. at the corner of Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz).

de) or Berlin Programm. and cabarets are available at Hekticket ( to 6 p. Tickets for more than 100 venues. and dozens of theaters and cabarets. Ticket prices range from about 23€ to 80€ ($29–$100). pronounced kah-suh). An excellent online source is www.zitty. available at all deutscheoperberlin. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garter) and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 12.m. and theater venues throughout Berlin are sold for up to 50 percent off at the BERLIN infostores. The box office is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. on the S-Bahn bridge at Alexanderplatz (% 030/230-9930. so everyone can get home at a reasonable ballet companies. dance. The newest trend is to start performances as early as 6 p. Alternatively. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Good news for culture vultures: With three major symphony orchestras.m. I include Web sites in this section so you can check performance schedules and ticket information before you arrive in Berlin. and classical-music venues. for the latest schedules of what’s going on where. including the opera houses. you can buy tickets online. www. For some of the larger opera. is the 1950s-era opera house that served the former West Berlin. you won’t be lacking for things to 12: Exploring Berlin 163 Finding out what’s happening Check the listings in Zitty (www. You can see both opera and ballet here in a house with no bad sightlines. Getting tickets You can buy tickets at the venue’s box office (the box office is called a Kasse. Tickets can usually be purchased right up to curtain time. ballet.m. both are open Monday through Friday from 10 including the Deutsche Oper Berlin. day-of-performance tickets for music. up to the time of performance and on Sunday from 10 a. If the venue doesn’t have its own Web site. Opera and ballet In Charlottenburg. you may be able to order tickets online at www.hekticket. which charge a commission. you can buy tickets from ticket agencies. Unsold. Bismarckstrasse 35 (% 030/341-0249 for recorded information or 030/343-8401. click “Culture” to access a complete list of events in any category for the specific dates of your visit. musicals. with outlets at Hardenbergstrasse 29 (% 030/2309930. for locations and opening hours.m. You also can buy tickets online.m. Whenever possible. . see Chapter 11. to 2 p. U-Bahn: Deutsche Oper). U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). three opera houses. classical concerts. A Berlin Welcome Card (see Chapter 11) allows you to buy reduced-price tickets (usually 25 percent off) at several major performing-arts venues.

75) for standing room to 110€ ($137). operas.m.konzerthaus.thebgt. Unter den Linden 7 (% 030/20-35-40. and Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 8 p. and an hour before performances. Berlin Phil concerts always sell Ticket prices range from about 7€ ($8. is a famous and well-respected East Berlin house with a unique artistic identity. to the time of www.164 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. Prices ranges from 8€ to 62€ ($10–$77).org. Gendarmenmarkt (% 030/203-090. to 7 p. musicals. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). but. If you don’t speak the language but want to experience German theater. is housed in a historic building in Berlin-Mitte. and one hour before performances. Chamber-music concerts are given at the adjoining Kammermusiksaal. and Sunday from 1 p. Tickets are available at the box offices of both venues. The Berliner Grundtheater (% 030/7800-1497. The Web site www. Tickets range from about 20€ to 80€ ($25–$100). www. The box office (Unter den Linden 4) is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. The Berlin Symphony Orchestra and other orchestras and classical music groups perform in this glittering. pitchperfect hall. of course.. Behrenstrasse 55–57 (% 030/4799-7400. www.m. I suggest you order your tickets online several weeks before your trip.m. The historic Schauspielhaus in the former East Berlin has undergone a stunning transformation and is now the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt. Berlin’s Komische Oper. Different ticket prices apply for each event. the Berlin Symphony. The programs feature opera and ballet performances. to 2 p. Matthäikirchstrasse 1 (box office % 030/2548-8999. so if you want to hear this fabulous orchestra.komische-oper-berlin. www.m. some seats in the upper rings have limited views of the stage. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz).de. which is open daily noon to 6 You can buy tickets at the Konzerthaus box office. Theater Berlin’s theater scene is outstanding. and symphony concerts are performed here.staatsoper-berlin.m. Symphony orchestras and classical music In the Kulturforum performs English-language plays in different venues around the city. I . performs at both the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt.m.m.m. The city’s third major orchestra. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. the renowned Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Sir Simon Rattle plays in the acoustically outstanding has a useful listing of plays and films in English. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden).m. to 8 p. most of the plays are performed in German. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p. You can buy tickets online. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden).

U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). to 6 and spending an evening in one can be enjoyable even if you don’t speak a word of German. to 6 p. The cover charge is 12€ to 26€ ($14–$32). Part of the performance usually involves a selection of popular songs. is a cabaret that’s been poking fun at the German and American political scenes for many years www. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Tauentzienstrasse and Budapester Strasse (% 030/261-4795.m. Wintergarten Variété. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). .m. Shows and showtimes vary. jugglers. friedrichstadtpalast. This cabaret is closed in July. Potsdamer Strasse 96 (% 030/2500-8888. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1 (% 030/2840-8155. www.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 165 recommend going to see a production by the famous Berliner Ensemble. Nightly shows start at 8:30 and 11 p. but most nights (except Mon. Shows take place Tuesday through Friday at 7:30 p. Believing that these glamorous ladies are really gentlemen sometimes is difficult. with a nightly variety show featuring magicians. Cabarets and variety shows Berlin has long been famous for its cabarets and variety shows.m. and 9:15 Marburgerstrasse 14 (% 030/213-1810. depending on the show and the day you visit www. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.diestachelschweine. and one hour before performances. The most expensive seats are on stage level. Ticket prices range from 17€ to 61€ ($21–$76).berliner-ensemble.25–$37). too). is a famous little cabaret where all the performers are in extravagant drag and most of the audience is heterosexual. with 4 p. in Mitte. you can find something to do all across the city. Chez Nous Travestie-Theater. For more listings. wintergarten-variete. balconies have conventional theater seats (but drinks are sold there.cabaret-chez-nous. www. Friedrichstrasse 107 (% 030/2326-2326.. and live music. U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse).de. www. is a big theater that features variety acts from around the world.m. Europa Center. and Saturday at 6 and 10 p. www. Shows begin at 8 p. Monday through Friday. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). when the theater’s closed) the performances begin at 8 p. Die Stachelschweine (The Porcupine).m.. matinees on Saturday and Sunday. Ticket prices range from about 5€ to 30€ ($ Playwright Bertolt Brecht formed this group with his wife. acrobats. Checking out the dance clubs and bars If you’re into nightlife. Cover is 29€ to 59€ ($36–$74). This section includes just a few of the bars and dance clubs in Berlin. Cover is 35€ ($44).m.m. is the largest and most nostalgic Berlin cabaret. clowns.m. and Saturday at 6 p. and many theater fans enjoy seeing Brecht’s plays performed in “his” theater. Helene Weigel.

so call first. Many bars now have an open-ended closing policy..75–$10). The club is open most nights from 10:30 p. Friday.m. Cover is 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). industrial-looking late-night disco that plays mostly high-energy retro rock for a crowd that includes lots of students. in happening Prenzlauer Berg. The club is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 p. a stage for floor shows. to 5 a. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). Far Out. the crowd is a hip mixture of gay and straight. Knaack-Klub. depending on the band..m.m. is a small. Please keep in mind that new bars open and bars close all the time. SO36. Cover is 3€ to 8€ ($3. The club is open Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p. to 4 a. is a four-story club with live rock shows four nights a week featuring German and international touring bands. Cover is 10€ to 16€ ($13–$19). and fog machine. to 4 a.75–$10).166 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bars and clubs don’t generally get going until midnight. is Berlin’s top jazz club. and highly danceable music. Friday and Saturday from 9 p.m.m. An empty club may choose to close at 2 a. Mohrenstrasse 30 (% 030/20230. Pestalozzistrasse 105 (% 030/313-2550.m.25). Admission is free on Tuesday and Wednesday when local musicians perform.m.m. Oranienstrasse 190 (% 030/6140-1306..m.m. including rock and Latin jazz. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). . Metropole. The club is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9 p. Hours are Monday to Friday 10 p. is a large. Berlin Hilton. The cover ranges from 3€ to 8€ ($3.m. Show days vary. Live music A Trane. depending on the night and who’s playing. Saturday and Sunday until 7 a. otherwise 13€ ($16). Cover usually is about 5€ ($6. U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). where you encounter many different styles of music.m.m. You always find dancing on Wednesday.m.. U-Bahn: Prinzenstrasse).50€ ($7). Kantstrasse 12A (% 030/312-8086. Nollendorfplatz 5 (% 030/217-3680. Club hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 10 p. smoky jazz club featuring musicians from around the world. The club is open Monday through Thursday from 8 p. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte). to 2 a. to 4 a. Quasimodo. in trendy Kreuzberg.m. draws a young 20-something crowd.m. call first to verify.m. video clips. Cover is 5.m.m. housed in an old theater with an Egyptian temple interior. and Saturday nights. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). Greifswalderstrasse 224 (% 030/442-7060. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz). to 4 a. but a packed club can stay open until 6 a. to 4 a. is a glossy and popular dance club with a great lighting system. Kurfürstendamm 156 (% 030/3200-0717. has two very large rooms. This section includes places that are likely to be around for years to come. to 4 a. Dance clubs Chip.

is hip and fun. Expect to pay at least 6€ ($7.m.m. Lore Berlin. and they offer meals (see the “Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs” sidebar in this chapter). Times Bar is open daily from 11 a. otherwise free. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). The place is open nightly until 4 a. more for anything exotic. unpretentious spot for a plain old glass of bier vom Fass (beer on tap)? What you need is a Kneipe (ka-nigh-puh). until 4 a.. The club is open Monday through Friday from 8 p. and rockabilly.m. The following bars currently are popular. The bar is open daily from 3 p. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Bahnhof). Neue Schönhauser Strasse 20 (% 030/2804-5134. Popular bars Later is better if you want to go out barhopping and see what’s happening in Berlin. rock. These places tend to be fashion-conscious. a cozy place similar to a neighborhood pub in the United Kingdom.50) for a straightforward drink. has a menu listing almost 200 drinks and a limited selection of food. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz). Neighborhood bars: Kneipes and Lokals Do you want to find a casual.m. less for a glass of beer. and intimate. Many Berliners have a favorite Kneipe where they stop in after work or later in the evening for a beer and a chat with their friends. is dedicated to hard-core punk. great dance music. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Savoy Hotel. Brewpubs also are good places to sample beer.m. cozy. Harry’s is open daily from noon to 2 a. is chic and elegant. and an intriguing mix of people hanging around a long and narrow bar with theatrical lighting that makes almost everyone look attractive. but rather a place where you can relax in a big leather chair and read The Times of London. so you may feel out of place if you show up in blue jeans and sneakers. geared toward a very late-night glamour crowd. to 2 a. Lützowufer 15 in Grand Hotel Esplanade (% 030/ 2547-8821. Bar am Lützowplatz. features cutting-edge design. Reingold. quiet. A small bar like this sometimes is called a Lokal (low-call). and photographs of American presidents.m. to 4 a.m.m.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 167 Wild at Heart. Saturday and Sunday from 8 p. Wienerstrasse 20 (% 030/611-7010. is reminiscent of a wood-paneled private club in London. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). with minimalist décor. Lore Berlin is open nightly until 3 a. Fasanenstrasse 9 (% 030/311-030. Admission is about 4€ ($5) for concerts. . Times Bar. Lützowplatz 7 (% 030/262-6807. 11 Novalistrasse (% 030/2838-7676. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). to 10 a. one of the longest and narrowest bars in Berlin. pop art. with bands from Germany and elsewhere playing Wednesday through Saturday nights.m. Harry’s New York Bar. The Times Bar isn’t a late-nightscene bar.m.

opened in 1987 across the street from Charlottenburg Palace.4-liter) serving (3. and salads) to accompany your beer.m. unfiltered. or microbrewery) in Berlin. The house beer is a pale. Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci Frederick the Great’s Schloss Sanssouci (palace of Sanssouci) in Potsdam is the architectural signature of one of Germany’s most dominating personalities.m. The brewpub is open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a.168 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs The first Bierhaus (brewpub. topfermented beer. is now the capital of the state of Brandenburg. Wilmersdorferstrasse 149 (% 030/341-8174. The bar can be loud. Potsdam. You can order hearty portions of German food (meat. (See the “Potsdam” map on the next page. Gasthaus Georgenbräu.000th anniversary in 1993 and has historic sites of its own. Allow yourself at least half a day to visit this remarkable palace and its beautiful grounds. Spreeufer 4 (% 030/242-4244. smoky. also unfiltered and topfermented.2-liter) glass (1.m. The Gasthof is open daily from 10 a. Luisenplatz 1 (% 030/341-9388. main courses go for 9. You can also order plates of hearty German food.m. Friday and Saturday 10 a. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz).50€ to 13€ ($6.20€/$4).m. a brewpub in the Nikolaiviertel beside the River Spree. George right outside. to midnight. blond.90–$16). 24km (15 miles) southwest of Berlin.50€ to 13€ ($12–$16). The smoky interior of this brewpub is comfortably Old Berlin. to midnight. is named after the statue of St. but be sure to make the palace of Sanssouci your top priority. U-Bahn: Klostergasse). sauerkraut. the helles (light) is top-fermented. Traditional food is served in an adjacent room Monday through Saturday from 11 a.) . You can order beer in a smallish 6-ounce (0. Hours are 8 a. The town celebrated its 1. main courses run from 5. Dating from 1892. a yeasty aroma. to 12:30 a.m. blond.. U-Bahn: Bismarckstrasse). to 10:30 p. Gaststätte Hoeck is the oldest Kneipe in Charlottenburg and still has its original wood panels with inlaid glass on the walls. even though the building is relatively new. and a nice balance of hop bitterness and malt flavor.60€/$2) or in an 11-ounce (0. dumplings. to 2 a. Bartenders pour more than a dozen kinds of beer and serve wine by the glass. Berlin is home to hundreds of Kneipes and Lokals. has a darkish amber color.m.m. You can choose between beers brewed on-premises. A famous one is Gaststätte Hoeck. Gasthaus Luisenbräu. The dunkles (dark). and unfiltered. a former garrison town on the Havel River. and raucous..

str S-Bahn Station S inr ich t ies te-P en ule str wk . Cross the road. 608 ls-Str. Ne uen 692 en Am Ga B273 Po tsdam er Str. . rgstr s PA R K S A N S S O U C I 5 tr.25 km 0. r. tten Charlo str. 695 in front of the station and ride nine stops to the Schloss Sanssouci stop. Str.-V. you must first get to Potsdam. au 4 er . The trip couldn’t be easier: From Berlin. Dortustr. nal rlin ho 6 7 pe Gregornh Mendel-Str. 694 tr. If you don’t want to hassle with anything. you can take one of the Potsdam–Sanssouci bus tours offered by the sightseeing bus companies on Ku-Damm (see “Bus tours” earlier in this chapter).Ossietzky-Str.-Sachs-Str. Hop on bus no. s te r dte g irewe Volta Allee str. Tiefer See Hu Br mbo üc ld ke t- Nu th es Breite Str Forststr. turn left. Lo a- St r. Lindenavenue Be konomieweg Ökonomieweg Lennéstr. lst ze str. 94 95 W BRANDENBURGER VORSTADT St or m . Potsdam Hauptbahnhof asse i ge Lan cke Brü tr. He zig Tor no eip Im Bogen 631 610 606 Str. en dt M ran mb Re Am Neuen Palais Linden str. rn Bo NEUER GARTEN Heiliger See rsc rten Ki un ds e Am Ruinenberg llee BERLINER VORSTADT er str . The bus fare is 1. Eichenallee n str. Nedlitzer St en str . S-Bahn line S7 stops at the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station. Str Kurfü rsten er ass e H. C. Jungfernsee 8 GERMANY ee ha ll ds Am un Frankfurt Munich Am S Pap pela llee chra g BORNSTEDT Ka th ho arin lzs en tr. Fried rich-E nge Sch laa tzs tr..25 mi N DINING Biergarten 6 Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle” 7 ATTRACTIONS Bildergalerie 5 Chinesische Teehaus 3 Neues Palais 1 Orangerie 2 Schloss Cecilienhof 8 Schloss Sanssouci 4 Information i Railway Getting there To get to Sanssouci.60€ ($2). and you’ll almost immediately come to a flight of stairs leading up to the palace. Feue rba str. ch- Schloss Charlottenhof Kastanienallee Am Ka n ue Ne en AmGart M an g str. the cost is generally about 40€ ($50) for a half-day fast-track tour.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 169 Potsdam Hamburg 614 Berlin Potsdam r. ws Havel -M er an nAl lee L 0 0 0. Weinbe Hauptallee lallee e 1 Heg 3 Jägera 2 Sc Friedrich-Ebert-Str. str Ze e pp lin .

open daily from 9 a. Friedrich II (called Frederick the Great. Fred the Great created the original design for the grounds. poetry. All kinds of rococo treasures fill the palace.m. you’re required to don huge felt slippers so you don’t scuff the floors. Waits in summer months can be up to three hours long. If you don’t arrive early. Your tour time is printed on your ticket. You can see the palace only on a guided tour costing 8€ ($10) for adults.). discuss weighty matters with French philosopher Voltaire. All the buildings listed here are signposted so you won’t get lost on the grounds. Before setting off on the tour.170 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding tourist information Maps. Discovering the top attractions Potsdam didn’t gain true importance until the “Great Elector” Friedrich Wilhelm (1620–1688) chose the lovely. (Nov–Mar to 4 p. and inexpensive guidebooks for both the town and the palace are available at the Potsdam tourist information office in the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (% 0331/270-9051. which you see on a tour that lasts about 45 minutes. and you must ask for them. Potsdam was a royal hangout. www. From then on. (Nov–Mar from 10 a.m.m.m. open Monday through Friday from 9:30 a. In short. You find another tourist office at Am Neuen Markt 1 (% 0331/275-580). A timed-entry system is in effect at Sanssouci.m. Sanssouci was built between 1745 and 1747 as Frederick’s summerhouse. brochures. and philosophy. Sanssouci was a summer resort for an enlightened monarch. and his planning still is evident in the restored vineyard terraces and the area immediately around the palace. to 4 p. lakey area to be his second seat of residence outside Berlin. to 5 p. Either before or after your tour. Schloss (Palace) Sanssouci (% 0331/969-4190) is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. The tour is given only in German.) and on Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. a place where he could let his wig Sat–Sun until 2 p.potsdam. . One of the greatest and most beautiful examples of European rococo. but information sheets in English are available from the guide. Your ticket tells you what time you can enter the palace to begin your guided tour.m. To escape the rigors of Berlin court life. to 8 p.m.). (in winter.m.m. 1712–1786) built in Potsdam a “small” country palace where he could retire sans souci (without a care) and indulge his passions for music. and make music with composer Carl Philip Emanuel Bach. spend some time wandering through the magnificent landscaped gardens with their bevy of historic buildings.25) for children and students. to 6 p. you may have to wait for a much later tour. and 5€ ($6.m. leafy.

you find the fancier Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle. ߜ The Neues Palais (New Palace. . (closed Thurs). The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.” where you can order a complete meal (open year-round daily 10 a.m. to 5 p. % 0331/969-4181).m. Dining at Sanssouci From May through September.m.–6 p. More interesting are the rooms used for the Potsdam Conference. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. including U. to 5 p. In the adjacent pavilion.m.75). You can eat for under 4€ ($5) and sit at outdoor tables. to 5 p. (Nov–Mar until 4 p.m. contains copies of paintings by Raphael and features ornately decorated salons.m. the largest building in Sanssouci park. Admission is 2€ ($2. The gallery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 171 ߜ The Bildergalerie (Picture Gallery.m.). open May–Sept daily 10 a. ߜ The Chinesische Teehaus (Chinese Teahouse) is a little gem of a rococo building resembling a pagoda. inexpensive bite at the Biergarten kiosk (no phone.m. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. you can visit the private rooms used by Crown Prince Wilhelm and Princess Cecelie.m. was completed in 1763 and displays a collection of works from the Italian Renaissance and baroque eras. This building is not open to the public. was completed in 1769 and used by the Hohenzollern royal family. to 5 p. % 0331/969-4200) was a royal residence from 1917 until 1945. Inside you see rococo rooms filled with paintings and antiques. The palace is open Saturday through Thursday from 9 a. and Russian dictator Joseph Stalin.50). The privileged classes would retire here to drink a new beverage called tea. Admission is 8€ ($10) for a grand tour of all the rooms. Schloss Cecilienhof (Cecilienhof Palace.).S. to 5 p. On a guided tour. Admission is 3€ ($3.m. 10 a. ߜ Built to look like an English country manor. west of the palace.m. the palace was used as headquarters for the Potsdam Conference attended by the heads of the Allied powers. Ornamental “Oriental” buildings like this were all the rage in 18th-century Europe. The food is basic wursts with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad). (Nov–Mar until 4 p. on the eastern side of the palace grounds.).m.).m. At the end of WWII. President Harry Truman.) across the road behind the palace of Sanssouci. Admission for the guided tour is 8€ ($10).m. ߜ The mid-19th-century Orangerie (% 0331/969-4280). % 0331/969-4255). The Orangerie is open mid-May to midOctober. you can grab a quick. Now the palace serves as a hotel and conference center.m.

m. ATMs You find ATMs all across Berlin. U.m. to 9 p. the first Saturday of the month. If you’re calling within Berlin. to 1 or 3 p.m. in Neue Kranzler Eck at Ku-Damm and Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). If you’re within Germany but not in Berlin. to 2 p. to 7 p. for a per-minute land-line telephone fee.m. You can also exchange money at American Express (see the beginning of this list for addresses). See also “Telephone” later in this list and in the appendix.m. % 01804/ 2255-2362. Irish. Hospitals Hotel employees are familiar with the location of the nearest hospital emergency room. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number.m. dial % 110.m.). call % 030/8900-4333.m. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).K. dial % 112. Two convenient bank branches with 24-hour ATM service are Deutsche Bank at Wittenbergplatz (U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz) and Dresdner Bank at Kurfürstendamm 237 (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). to 6 p. Information The main tourist information centers. you can locate a doctor through Call a Doc. Country Code and City Code The city code for Berlin is 30.m. call % 112 for an ambulance. and Friedrichstrasse 172 (% 030/201-7400. to 2 p. and on Sunday from 10 a. South African. In an emergency. to 1 p. embassies and consulates. to 6 or 6:30 p.. are located in the Hauptbahnhof (U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). to 7 p. Currency Exchange The currency exchange offices in the Hauptbahnhof and Bahnhof Zoo are open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. and Saturday 10 a.m.172 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Fast Facts: Berlin American Express American Express has two main offices: Bayreutherstrasse 37–38 (% 030/21476292. open Monday through Friday 9 a. Some stores stay open late on Thursday (usually until 8:30 p. For an emergency doctor.m. On langer Samstag (longer Saturday).m.m. Business Hours Most banks are open Monday through Friday 9 a. use 030.m. in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz or Unter den Linden) and under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at .m.m. shops stay open until 4 or 6 p. and Saturday from 9 a. for an emergency dentist. and Saturday 10 a. To report a fire or to summon an ambulance. and U. Embassies and Consulates See the appendix for the addresses of the Australian..m. stores are generally not open on Sunday. called BERLIN infostores. Berlin phone numbers may have from five to eight digits. open Monday through Friday 9 a. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Most other businesses and stores are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. call % 030/31-00-31 (24 hours). Use 30 whenever you’re calling Berlin from outside Germany.S. Emergencies To call the police. Canadian. Dentists and Doctors You’ll find a list of doctors and specialists in the Berlin Yellow Pages or.m.m. Except in the train stations.

Pharmacies If you need a pharmacy (Apotheke. use a call box marked Inlands und Auslandsgespräche. go to Europa–Apotheke.50 and $31) denominations at any post office or news vendor. see the appendix.50€ to get in through a turnstile. Sunday and holidays from 10 a. go to the nearest one and look for a sign in the window giving the address of the nearest pharmacy with nighttime hours (such postings are required by law). which list events around the city. For hours and other information about each office.m. until noon. you are expected to leave 0. a few steps from Unter den Linden. Many phones also accept Visa cards. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12 (% 030/261-4142.20€ as you depart.m. Telephones Finding a coin-operated telephone in Berlin is now rare. Post Office The main post office at Joachimstaler Strasse 7 (% 030/8870-8611. The same hours . In Mitte.m. 173 Regular post office hours are Monday through Friday 8 a. www.. ah-potay-kuh) at night. see Chapter 11. Most have instructions in English. You can also make long-distance calls from post offices. Some require 0. available at most newsstands. Taxis You can hail taxis along Berlin’s major streets. Kurfürstendamm 224 (www.m. use common sense and caution when you’re in a crowded public area. is the Dorotheenstadtische Apotheke. easyeverything. most accept only Telefonkarte (telephone cards). in others.m. to 10 p. Taxis with illuminated roof signs are available. For a centrally located pharmacy.m. cities.bvg. which you can purchase in 6€ and 25€ ($7. U-/S-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Transit Assistance The Transit Authority (BVG. Police To call the police. Safety Berlin is safer than most large U. As in any large metropolis. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Newspapers and Magazines Newsstands carry Zitty and BerlinProgramm. offering over 300 terminals.m. dial % 110. located near the Europa Center. Internet Access One of Berlin’s largest Internet cafes is EasyEverything. Taxes See the appendix for provides U-Bahn information (% 030/19449) and S-Bahn information (% 030/2974-3333) daily from 6 a. check out Chapter 11. to midnight. to 6 p. Maps The most detailed Berlin map with a complete street index is the fold-out Falk plan. Friedrichstrasse 154 (% 030/204-4817.S. branch locations are in the Sony Center and Karl-Marx-Strasse 78.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Alexanderplatz (S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. to midnight. if there is an attendant. Single women need to avoid the dimly lit streets in Kreuzberg at night. For more about fares and where to call for a taxi. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Restrooms You find public facilities throughout Berlin and at all train To make an international call. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. Saturday 8 a. For more.

berlin-tourist-information. Web Sites The best overall Web sites for tourist information on Berlin are www.zitty. you find information in English about where you can buy tickets and obtain a free transit map. www. . and and more. shopping.174 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany apply to the BVG information kiosk outside Bahnhof Zoo. Weather You can check the weather online before you go at www. restaurants. At these sites.

and lakes. often gray and misty. watery landscape that spreads out over 754 sq. but also densely green and filled with trees. even haughty. km (294 sq. marshlands.Chapter 13 Hamburg. prosperous city. For others. Don’t expect dry. Hamburg is sin-city . which also is one of Germany’s 16 federal states. In medieval times. Everyone carries away a different impression of this bustling. raincoat. Lübeck. trade.) The terrain is characteristic of northern Germany: low. miles). Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World Hamburg. Some find Hamburg to be a bit smug. has a flat. A sense of the vast northern seas permeates the city. and commerce. a city of “high culture” and elegance and obsessed with making money. Hansa cities formed trade affiliations that linked northern Germany to the eastern Baltic regions and Scandinavia. an umbrella. Hamburg. In fact. and sweater probably will come in handy. even during the summer. Hamburg and Lübeck still retain the term Hansestadt (Hanseatic City) in their official titles. windswept. (See the “Hamburg” map in this chapter. and Bremen were important members of the Hanseatic League. sunny weather in northern Germany at any time of the year. Bremen. located on the Elbe River about 100km (62 miles) from the North Sea. If you’re traveling in the north. and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the port city of Hamburg ᮣ Touring the ancient city of Bremen ᮣ Exploring medieval Lübeck T his chapter covers three cities in northern Germany with long histories of seafaring. the most powerful commercial network in Europe.

Jacobikirche 21 e ss St.-PauliLandungsbrücken 5 asse Schaarsteinweg Blei 6 tin ar rM the se Lu tras S chen 7 trasse fleet Stras s e au s see Bud ape Ka ise ster stra - ra sse ss e ig-Erh ard-S . Michaelis a7 str Tierpark Hagenbeck 1 ch ba Wallringpark: Alter Botanischer Garten 13 Grosse Wallanlagen 10 Kleine Wallanlagen 11 Planten und Blomen 12 Keiler 1 HOHELUFT Le hm w eg Ho he g R2 or nd r fe we Jungfrauenthal luf tch au sse G E Hamburg Berlin NY Frankfurt M A R Munich pe ism c ar ks tr se as Ep e Innocentiapark B HARVESTEHUDE Werder- Sc asse hla EIMSBÜTTEL Bu nde sstr nk re ye Hallerstrasse ee Be sse Ludw igErha S t r a sr d se Karolinenstr kort stra Al t on asse r ae St ra ss e SternschanzenHeinrichpark HertzTurm Re str ntz as else Planten un Blomen 12 Alter Botanischer Garten Har Feldstrasse 13 Kleine Wallanlagen -Fock rch 11 Go Ha u 4 sse e cis 2 3 ch Heiligengeistfeld au 10 Gla Grosse Wallanlagen ll Gr ilh elm ps all im wa ind am Sc hl elh r-W F r u c h t a ll e e S chä fer k um St Gros Freih se eit Thadenstrasse erL o u ise-S c h r ö d sse Stra Simon -von- Utrecht-Strasse ALTONA 4 ST. PAULI Reepe rbahn 8 Ludw Ho sse 9 lst Schom en of e p Gri nde lalle Eim sbü tte l er Ch burgstra Palmaille Fischmarkt aar tor G r o s s e Elbes t r ass e Elbe Baumwall Alst Sch erfl König Frie eet strass e se ras hst dric Herbert- tr ocht-S hard-N strasse Bern St.176 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg ACCOMMODATIONS Aussen Alster 28 Hamburg Marriott 15 Hotel Hafen Hamburg 6 Hotel Side 14 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg 26 Park Hyatt Hamburg 22 Pension Helga Schmidt 25 Wedina 27 DINING Apples Restaurant 22 Cremon Weinkeller 17 Die Rösterei 23 Eisenstein 3 Fischküche Karin Brahm 18 Le Paquebot 20 Melange 6 Ratsweinkeller Hamburg 19 Voltaire Bistro 2 ATTRACTIONS R2 Alster Lake 29 Erotic Art Museum 4 Hafen (Harbor) 5 Hamburger Kunsthalle 24 Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte Strese9 mann strass Rathaus 16 e Reeperbahn 8 4 St.

25 mi Bro or okt kai Information i 0.25 km Ha St mbu ra r ss ge e r Le rc he nf eld Bellevue Be lle Sie vu rich e Herderstrasse stra sse Be et ho n ve str as se He rbe rt-W eic hm ann -St W in te rh ud er W eg Harvest ras Sc h lweg ön huder Weg lend amm er ck e be ss Lü stra Ju ng fe rn sti eg Po sts tra en sse 75 Nag elsw eg ook stra sse N . Matt Holzb nde Sa ra ss e St. and Lübeck 177 Fer Hochallee strasse nsic ht Gell Hans-H en n erts se tras -W ahn y-J eg BARMBEK Weide strasse Hallerstras Rothenbaumchaussee se Mitte Alsterpark PÖSSELDORF Milchst rasse UHLENHORST se 5 da eA uss i m ch t ds bu m er ROTHERBAUM Aussenalster lweg en wi k HOHENFELDE Müh Mitte hw an M un rg 29 er Sc Alst Th.Chapter 13: Hamburg. GEORG Hansaplatz S in te da m m 15 CAB asse Str Ba lin da m m Binnenalster Hauptbahnhof öncke 22 M 23 21 22 se as t Steinstr Speersor i Adena K i Ble che nfl eet 20 sse bergstra e ueralle ee r-All ache m u h c S t r u tra M 16 Börse st er g ö n c ke b r. Bremen.-HeussPlatz GustavMahler-Park eruf Se ch sli ng K Ko op pp e ls Wall 14 Ken ne dyb rücke L Lo om mb ba arrd ds sb brrü üc ck ke e An de 27 tra asss se rA l r ste 28 sp fo rte e BORGFELDE lal e W rass st 26 25 24 Hachmannplatz ST. Petri Kirche 19 sse asse gstr sse ldin a Spa nalstr a rdk No Ham me rbr ALTSTADT Do ms 17 e Dov nfle Ob er brü baum cke - Ost-West-Strasse Katharinenstrasse et Am sin B Ba an nks cks tra 18 Kajen stra a sse 0 0 s ss se e 0.

www. bustling. an array of easily identified banks with currency-exchange windows. A taxi from the airport to the city costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 30 minutes. An S-Bahn line connects the two stations.airport. depending on traffic. Because of the Elbe and two enormous inner-city lakes. land of the lurid Reeperbahn. For train information. you’re as much aware of water as land — Hamburg has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined.m. Taxi stands are in front of all the terminals. this city makes a good headquarters. Paul-Baumer-Platz 1–3 (% 040/50750. Most major European cities have direct flights to Hamburg. By train Hamburg has two major rail stations. call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) at % 11861.” Getting there Hamburg is the largest city in northern Germany and is easy to reach by train. If you want to explore northern Germany.–11 p. With its giant port and strongly international flair. The easiest way to get into the city is by the Airport Express bus.20€ ($6. The bus runs every 15 to 20 minutes (5 a.178 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany incarnate. a street where sex is sold overthe-counter.50) for adults and 2.10) for children younger than 12. and other independent currency-exchange services and ATMs. and car. Hamburg has train connections with all major German and European cities. which explains why you find historic buildings standing side by side with steel-and-glass structures. which stops in front of terminals 1 and 4.m. Most trains arrive at the centrally located Hamburg Hauptbahnhof. the journey takes about 25 minutes.ham.) to the city’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station).). and then make a second stop at Hamburg-Altona (% 040/39182387) in the western part of the city. Germans often call it their “gateway to the world. Hamburg has a huge. not The terminal contains a tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300) in the arrivals area of terminals 1 and 2 (open daily 5:30 a. Much of the city was destroyed during World War II (WWII).50€ ($3.–9:20 p. Hachmannplatz 10 (% 040/39183046). horn-blaring port and sedate late-19th-century neighborhoods. . the trip time is 21⁄2 hours. From Berlin. plane. By plane Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of the city center is Hamburg Airport.m.m. The one-way fare is 5. Intriguing Hamburg is worth a day or two of your time.

and can book a hotel room for you for a 4€ ($5) fee.m.m.-Pauli-Landungsbrüucken.50) for children.m.m. including a Tickets for all tours are available on the bus and all tours have live commentary in English. to 9 p. Orienting yourself The Hauptbahnhof is located on the eastern fringe of central in the main train station near the main entrance. Cost is 18€ ($22) for adults. hamburg. Alsterfleet and Bleichenfleet. northwest of Aussenalster. 7€ ($9) for children up to 14. This office is open April through October daily from 8 a.Chapter 13: departs every 30 minutes from 9:30 a. Bremen. 6€ ($7. Pauli Reeperbahn district. The 90-minute Top Tour (www. In the harbor area. the city’s commercial and shopping district.m.m.m. The three-hour “Lights of Hamburg” tour (www. divide the Alster into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster). the Lombardsbrücke and the Kennedybrücke. Taking a bus tour A guided bus tour is the best way to get a feel for Hamburg and its various neighborhoods and special areas. Hamburg Stadt Rundfahrt (% 040/792-8979) offers the Elbe Tour. to 6 p. the A23 from the northwest. is 30€ ($37). Kirchenallee entrance. the A7 from the north and south. is a tree-filled residential district with many fine 19th-century villas and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings. to 5 p.m. Central Hamburg surrounds the Alster. (hourly in winter). channeling water from the .hamburg-tourismus. Two canals. Two starts at 8 p.m. Finding information Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg operates the tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300. which lasts 2 hours and 30 minutes and includes towns along the Elbe River. double-decker buses depart Saturday and Sunday from April through October at 2 p. A word to the wise: Park your car and use public transportation in this busy city. to 6 p. Pösseldorf. Cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. from the St. Daily tours on double-decker buses operated by Hamburger Stadtrundfahrten (% 040/641-3731) leave from the main train station. Flanking the Binnenalster on the south is the Jungfernstieg. a lake rimmed by Hamburg’s most significant buildings.m. www. and Lübeck 179 By car The A1 Autobahn reaches Hamburg from the south and west. The office is open daily from 8 a. Cost. run south from Binnenalster. from May through October and includes a visit to the St. you find tourist information (% 040/3005-1300) at the St. Another good online source of information is www. and the A24 from the east. November through March 10 a. Hamburg’s most vital artery and shopping district.-PauliLandungsbrücken between piers 4 and 5.

formerly a city in its own right. a short distance to the south. now integrated into Greater Hamburg.80€ ($9.50€ ($3) within Greater Hamburg. The Altona neighborhood is a great place to explore or have dinner. and music halls. is located northwest of the river. which is the same for both U-Bahn and bus. The U-Bahn (subway) and buses Hamburg’s U-Bahn serves the entire central area and connects with the S-Bahn light-rail trains in the suburbs. and harbor ferries. which takes place at dawn every Sunday. Pauli. The U-Bahn is the fastest means of getting around. . Many of Hamburg’s finest hotels and restaurants cluster around the Binnenalster and the Rathaus (City Hall). A tageskarte (day ticket) for unlimited use of public transportation costs 5. and lake cruises. Getting around Hamburg Hamburg is not a compact city and can’t be easily covered on foot. A single one-way fare for both U-Bahn and bus costs 2. The HamburgCard is good for travel on all public transport.55€ ($1. www. depends on how far you travel. discos. but buses offer a good alternative and enable you to see more of the city. the world’s seventh-largest harbor. buses.180 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Alster to the Elbe. call % 040/441-011 or 040/666-666. Pauli district. is the scene of Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market).80€ ($7. Taxi meters begin at 2€ ($2. S-Bahn (light rail). Hamburger Verkehrsverbund (HVV. a famous neon-lit boulevard with cafes. The St.hvv. the old sailor’s quarter that became the center of Hamburg nightlife.50) and rise 1. bisects St.90) per kilometer.” earlier in this chapter). % 040/19449.75) for one adult and up to three children under 15. Buy your ticket from the bus driver or from automatic vending machines at U-Bahn stations and bus stops. You can buy the card at the tourist information offices (see “Finding information. sex shows. stretches for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River. The Port (Hafen) of Hamburg. guided tours of the port. bars. south of Central Hamburg and the Alster. A one-day card costs 7. A three-day card costs 17€ ($22) for one adult and up to three children. The Reeperbahn. com) operates the U-Bahn (subway). you have to depend on public transportation or taxis. A-Bahn (commuter rail). The fare. The western district of Altona. admission to 11 Hamburg museums. Taxis For a taxi. and discounts on city tours.25) for an adult and includes fare for up to three children traveling with an adult. To see everything of interest.

Alsterdorf Lattenkamp U2 Alte Wöhr Habichtstr. Baumwall Dammtor Step. Jungfernstieg Rödingsmarkt Rathaus Neugraben Heimfeld Harburg Rathaus Harburg Bremen Hanover Hammerbrook Hauptbahnhof Steinstr. Reeperbahn St. and Lübeck Bergedorf Buxtehude Stade Holstenstr. Hasselbrook Ritterstr. Mön. Halstenbek Krupunder S21 Hagensbeck Tierpark Niendorf Markt Eidelstedt Ost Hagendeel Elbgaustraße A1 Eidelstedt Stellingen Wedel Rissen Iserbrook Emilienstr. Barmbek Wandsbeck Ost Alter Teichweg Eppendorfer Baum Borgweg U3 Friedrichsberg HoheDehnhaide Straßburger Straße Klosterstern luttHamburger Str.Neumünster Ulzberg Süd Ulzburg Süd A2 Richtweg U1 Ohlstedt Lübeck Garstedt Ochsenzoll Hoisbüttel Buckhorn Langenhorn Nord Langenhorn Markt U2 Fuhlsbüttel Nord Hohenneichen Kornweg Berne Ohlsdorf Sengelmannstr. Bremen. Mundsburg Wandsbeker Chaussee Schlump Wandsbek Uhlandstr. Messberg 181 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn S3 Neuwiedenthal . Langenfelde Osterstr. Wartenau Lohmühlenstr. Pauli Landungsbrücken Messehallen Gän. Trabrennbahn Rübenkamp Farmsen Rahlstedt Fuhlsbüttel Klein Borstel Meinendorfer Weg Wellingsbüttel S1 Poppenbüttel Buchenkamp Volksdorf Ahrensburg West Ahrensburg Ahrensburg Ost. Rauhes Haus Markenstr. Wandsbek-Gartenstedt Kellinghusenstr. Christuskirche Lutterothstr. Sierichstr. Legienstr. Wandsbek Markt brucke Hallerstr. Bilstedt Steinfurther Allee Rothenburgsort Mümmelmannsberg U3 Tiefstack Veddel Bilwerder-Moorfleet Wilhelmsberg Lübecker Str. Sta. Sülldorf Hochkamp Diebsteich Othmarschen S1 Blankenese Klein Flottbek Bahrenfeld S-Bahn U-Bahn Hudtwaickerstr. Großhansdorf Schmalenbeck Kiekut Kiwittsmoor U1 Norderstedt Mitte A1 Hasioh Bönningstedt Elmshorn Niendorf Nord Schippelsweg Burgwedel S3 Pinneberg Schnelsen Thesdorf Joachim-Mähl-Str. Saarlandstr. Landwehr Hammerkirche Horner Rennbahn Bergstr. Berliner Tor Mittierer Landweg Allermöhe Netteinburg Wohltorf Reinbek Aumühle S21 Schwerin Berlin Single track section AKN Line DB Line Chapter 13: Hamburg. Altona Sternschanze Feidstraße Königstr.

AE. 20354 Hamburg. or 040/ 35050. MC. and restaurants. which becomes Schmilinskystrasse). Rates: 129€–155€ ($161–$194) double. The well-done bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. and today consists of three adjacent buildings with a total of 255 rooms. See Chapter 22 for details on the Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ($$$$). If you arrive without a room. a fashionable area filled with boutiques. The rooms vary . Aussen Alster $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This ABC Strasse 52. Rates include buffet breakfast. Hamburg Marriott $$$$ Central Hamburg This large. 176. Hotel Hafen Hamburg $ –$$$ St. well-regarded restaurant. The 27 midsize rooms are minimalist in terms of décor but very comfortable and meticulously maintained. V. Rates: 199€–279€ ($248–$349) double. You will usually find special weekend rates and promotional offers on the hotel Web site. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk south on ABC Strasse). the Schmilinsky. DC. 176. The hotel has a fitness center with pool and sauna and can arrange baby-sitting. www. www. 20099 Hamburg. V. See map p. stylish hotel in a late-19th-century building sits on a quiet residential street near the Aussenalster lake.” earlier in this chapter). wine bars. Schmilinskystrasse 11. DC.S. % 800/228-9290 in the U. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk east on Steindamm and west on Stiftstrasse. originally built in the mid 19th century as a home for sailors. You find an onsite sauna and solarium. The bathrooms are small with shower-tub combinations. AE. especially in the center of the city. MC. % 040/ offers rooms with panoramic views of the river and harbor. You also find hotel-booking desks at the airport. Fax: 040/3505-1777.aussen-alster. the hotel features an array of business-oriented in-room amenities.182 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Staying in Hamburg Hamburg is an expensive city with plenty of first-class hotels and a limited number of budget accommodations. Fax: 040/2803231. Pauli/Harbor area This Hamburg landmark. The building was restored and converted into a hotel in 1979. plus an intimate. The 227 rooms are priced according to size and degree of luxury. Rates include breakfast. The hotel can arrange baby-sitting. Hamburg’s tourist information office in the main train station can help you find accommodations (see “Finding information. traditionally styled hotel is near the Hanse Geared toward business travelers. shops. See map p.

hyatt. Breakfast: 13€ ($16).Chapter 13: Hamburg. Rates: 190€–265€ ($237–$295). www. Drehbahn DC. The neighboring ship-shaped Hotel Residenz. You may find a bit of attitude. 20459 Hamburg.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (then a 7minute walk north through the small park outside the station to Seewartenstrasse). See map p. Some rooms have private bathrooms with showers. DC. You won’t find anything fancy here. Hotel Side takes high design to new heights. Built around a central atrium. This full-service hotel has virtually every amenity you can imagine. 20095 Hamburg. glowing colors and contemporary furniture placed as carefully as sculptures. all have wellequipped bathrooms with a shower-tub combination.hotel-hamburg. but most are large with updated modern furnishings. 176. The large bathrooms have a separate area for Japanese-style soaking tubs. Fax: 40/3099-9399. V. 176. AE. Fax: 040/ % 40/309-990. DC. AE. the largest pool in Hamburg. and a fine-dining restaurant called Apples (see “Dining in Hamburg. Breakfast: 22€ ($27). Bremen. but staying here is definitely a memorable experience. A terrace on the eighth floor opens onto panoramic views of Bugenhagenstrasse 8. MC. See map p. V. Seewartenstrasse 9. Fax: 40/ 3332-1235. A stark white and steel high-tech minimalism is offset by dramatic. and Lübeck 183 in size. But the double rooms are of a decent size and have an old-fashioned comfort of their own. V. the 178 good-sized rooms are quiet and comfortable. was built in 1995. The third and fourth floors are nonsmoking. Lots of wood and warm-toned fabrics adorn the 252 spacious rooms. the Hafen’s modern sister hotel. www. U-/S-Bahn: St. The luxurious bathrooms have a tub-shower combination.” later in this chapter). % 040/3332-1234. Rates: 100€–200€ ($125–$250) double. traditional. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse).hamburg. 20354 Hamburg. MC. Amenities include a health club with pool. % 040/311-130. 17-room pension sits right across the street from the superdeluxe Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg (Chapter 22) and costs a fraction of the price. Rates: 209€–310€ ($261–$387) double. Breakfast: 18€ ($22). See map p.side-hamburg. Pension Helga Schmidt $ Central Hamburg This small. www. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Dammtorstrasse and west on Drehbahn). AE. MC. Park Hyatt Hamburg $$$$ Central Hamburg One of the most beautifully designed hotels in Hamburg. Hotel Side $$$$ Central Hamburg Opened in the spring of 2001. others have showers . the Hyatt occupies a former trading house from 1912 that was transformed into a hotel in 1998. 176.

Fax: 040/280-3894. % 040/33321234. DC. and 6–11 p. www. or eel soup. you can enjoy breakfast in the privacy of your room.m. char-grilled turbot and peppers. See map p. sole. MC. onions. 20099 Hamburg. Rote Grütze. On the menus of the city’s many fish restaurants. Apples is the showcase restaurant of the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Most of the 42 rooms open onto a small. V. Rates: 108€–165€ ($135–$206) double. AE. Fax: 040/243-705. 176. MC. Gurlittstrasse 23. Traditional meat dishes include Stubenküchen (hamburger steak) and Labskaus — made with beer. The smallish bathrooms have a shower-tub combination. you usually find lobster. and to reach rooms on the third floor. Dining in Hamburg It shouldn’t come as any surprise that most of Hamburg’s traditional cuisine comes from the sea. V. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north along Koppel Strasse to Gurlittstrasse). a local dessert specialty. The place is hip without being pretentious. Tuscan-style garden. or oven-roasted duck. Rates: 58€ ($72) double without bathroom. and pickle — which is a hearty. features fresh.wedina. In the morning. AE.m. herring. See map p. salmon. % 040/280-8900. you may find grilled lobster. Rate includes breakfast. 20099 Hamburg. Wedina $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This recently remodeled hotel is in three different buildings painted three different colors (red. saddle of pork. Open: Daily 6:30 a. www.–2:30 p. The menu. and eel (Aalsuppe. blue. protein-packed dish that sailors and dockworkers order.184 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany only and you share a bathroom. V. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north on Holzdamm). potatoes. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. DC. is a famous Hamburg dish). fresh oysters. and yellow). you have to climb 55 steps. 176. fixedprice menu 50€ ($62).t-online. Holzdamm 14. 68€ ($85) double with bathroom. % 040/280-83-90. Rates include buffet breakfast. is a compote of red fruits served with vanilla ice cream or cream. They range in size from small to medium and are individually decorated with modern turbot. Reservations required. Appetizers may include ostrich carpaccio or red curry soup.m. Fresh specials of the day also are available. organically grown produce. See map p. Main courses: 23€–31€ ($29–$39). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. plaice. corned beef. which changes according to seasonal availability. AE. As a main course. Apples Restaurant $$$ –$$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL Centered around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven. In the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Come here for an elegant evening out. Pancakes (Pfannkuchen) with cranberries or other fruit toppings are popular. . 176. DC.

MC. and the Cremonteller. and Italy.50€ ($6. this casual cafe is a good place to stop for breakfast. You can eat on the balcony overlooking the shops or in the wood-paneled dining room. and the service is no-nonsense. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Mönckebergstrasse). Open: Daily noon to 3 p. you can order eggs. From the below-street-level location. and Lübeck Cremon Weinkeller $ Harbor area NORTH GERMAN 185 If you want to eat lunch with the locals. Cremon 33–34. V.m. Luncheon offerings usually include chicken and fish dishes plus daily specials and several different salads. Sun 10 a. traditional versions of North German cuisine.50€–9€ ($4.–9 p. Mönckebergstrasse 7. See map p.m. For breakfast.m. this barrestaurant is a good place to try. Main courses: 5€–7. fixed-price dinner 26€ ($32).–10 p. Main courses: 9€–12€ ($11–15). and croissants. a platter with crab.50) per dish. Typical offerings include goulash with noodles. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. cheese. Bremen. with a minimum of fuss. you can see the Nikolaifleet canal from the windows. salmon. Friedensallee 9. housed in a former tram station. which becomes Friedensallee). and saltimbocca. a light lunch. and 6 p. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and northwest on Bahrenstrasse. and bread and butter. fixedprice lunch 14€ ($17).m. to midnight. Japan (including sushi and sashimi).m. % 040/3039-3735. particularly fresh Atlantic fish. sausages. so you can get a cappuccino with your afternoon Kuchen (cake). Die Rösterei $ Central Hamburg LIGHT MEALS/BREAKFAST/DESSERTS Located in the shopping arcade attached to the Park Hyatt hotel. The food is robust.m.m. and fresh. The restaurant serves four or five hot dishes of fish and meat buffet-style at lunchtime. 176. includes specialties from Thailand. The cafe roasts its own coffee beans.. meat. cold cuts.40–$11). See map p. Eisenstein $$ –$$$ Altona INTERNATIONAL The menu in this hip Altona restaurant. or afternoon coffee.Chapter 13: Hamburg. % 040/3904-606. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. 176. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 10-minute walk east on Kajen and north on Cremons). Reservations recommended. jacket potatoes with sour cream and crab or other fillings. See map p. No credit cards.25–$9. a cold buffet is available in the evening. homemade pastas. Popular offerings include breast of duck with caramelized cherries. Main courses: 8€–26€ ($10–$32). Fischküche Karin Brahm $$ –$$$ Harbor area SEAFOOD This pleasant fish restaurant in a modern building has a bright dining room and outdoor tables. southern France. % 040/362-190. 176. No credit cards.–9 p. Breakfast: 3.m. .

186 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The menu changes all the time. See map p. Most of the young wait staff speak English. zander filet with creamy sauerkraut. If you don’t like fish. Sun 5:30 p. you can sit outside on the square and enjoy a good meal at this quietly stylish restaurant and bar. wood-paneled columns. you can choose from other dishes such as chicken breast in a green rice crust or turkey curry. % 040/3750-3434. See map p. Don’t bother with appetizers. V. to midnight.m. Sat 6 p. Reservations recommended. 176.m.–2 a. And the outside tables are great for people-watching. Main courses: 11€–15€ ($14–$18). Grosse Johannisstrasse 2. MC. step up to the herring buffet featuring many different condiments and sauces. 176. Reservations recommended. Choices may include different kinds of clear or creamy fish soup.m. U-Bahn: Rathaus (then a 3-minute walk south on Grosse Johannisstrasse). Melange $ –$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL With tables tucked along the canal under the fancy shopping arcade that lines the Alsterfleet canal (across from the Rathaus). V.m. too. Neuer Wall 31 (in the Neuen Alsterarkaden). Italian and modern German. Main courses typically include pasta offerings such as tagliatelle with ragout. the fresh sole. DC.) The menu. Le Paquebot $$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL In warm weather. For starters.m. changes daily. % 040/326-519.m. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 70. Ratsweinkeller Hamburg $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg HAMBURG/INTERNATIONAL In business since 1896. the Ratsweinkeller Hamburg has high. depending on the catch of the day. . you may try the avocado salad with herring or some crostini. % 040/365-631. and breast of chicken with basil and mushrooms. See map p. AE. but on a nice day nab a table outside). Try the halibut steak in curry sauce. Or. AE. V. or the Hamburg crab soup. flounder with spaghetti and lemon-butter sauce. (Indoor dining is available yearround. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 3-minute walk west to Kajen). 176. Kajen 12. or codfish with potatoes and onion. herring filets on black bread with onions. the main courses are more than enough.–6 p. Open: Daily 8 a. this cafe/bistro/bar is a chic but casual spot to stop for lunch or an early dinner (you can eat inside.. MC. vaulted ceilings. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk across Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz).–2 a.m. UBahn: Jungfernstieg (then a 5-minute walk north along Neuer Wall to Schleuseenbrücke). and large stained-glass windows. AE. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. Main courses: 17€–25€ ($21–$31). a mixed fish platter. See map p. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). % 040/364-153. I like it because you can order something as simple as a salad but they also have good daily specials. an international mix of French. 176. Open: Mon–Fri noon to midnight. MC.

176. and the Aussenalster. windsurfers. and herring. Exploring Hamburg Surprisingly enough. The dining room is a high-ceilinged brick-walled room with big windows and a bistrolike atmosphere. a smaller. flower gardens. The city still commemorates the event every year in early May with three days of huge harborside celebrations. Friedensalle 14–16. Its official history dates back to 1189. Open: Daily 6 p. Sightseeing usually centers on the giant harbor and picturesque Alster Lake. MC. and German cuisine. See map p. and canoes ply the waters of this lake that forms the watery heart of central Hamburg.Chapter 13: Hamburg. You also find many different salad choices. Walking paths and parkland surround the 7km (4 miles) of shoreline. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. excursion ferries.m. The Alster consists of the Binnenalster. See map p. Italian. No credit cards. Alsterpark. a larger body of water ringed by fine villas. AE. Closed holidays. Sun 11 a. inner lake with canals running south to the Elbe. one of the largest in the world.m. and panoramic views of the Hamburg skyline. which covers 175 acres on the northwest banks. features beautiful trees. Meat and fish dishes typically include entrecôte (boned rib steak) with mustard sauce. and hundreds of booths. Hamburg is not a city with many world-class cultural attractions. Bremen. Voltaire also has a good wine list and live jazz on most evenings. U-Bahn: Hallerstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Hallerstrasse to the park). fireworks.m. % 040/397-004.–1 a. . Main courses: 9€–14€ ($11–$17).m.m. reasonably priced restaurant is across from Eisenstein (see the listing earlier in this section) in the popular Altona area. DC.m.–10:30 p. V. Alster Lake Sailboats. rabbit with sweet-and-sour sauce.. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and north on Bahrenstrasse. with coq au vin and spaghetti with mushroom sauce available every day. The menu borrows from French. scampi. and Lübeck 187 Main courses: 11€–31€ ($14–$39). Hafen (Harbor) Hamburg is probably most famous for its busy harbor. fixed-price menus 30€–45€ ($37–$56). Voltaire Bistro $$ Altona INTERNATIONAL This pleasant. 176. including a windjammer parade.–4 p. Damming the meandering Alster River created the lake in 1235. which becomes Friedensallee). wild duck with plum sauce. when the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa issued an edict granting free-trading privileges to Hamburg.

Rubens. noon.m. to 5:30 p. 6€ ($7. Saturday and Sunday only from 10:30 a.m. A brochure and cassettes with a description of the tour in English are available at no additional cost. where the Elbe splits into two arms. Docked just east of the landing stage at Pier 1 is the Rickmer Rickmers (% 040/319-5959).10) for children ages 4 to 12. Piers 1 through 9.and early-20th-century artists Edvard Munch. www. The ships leave from the Jungfernstieg quayside (U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg).50€ ($ 3. tours depart daily at 10:30 a. from November through March. from 10 leave from St.m. Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum) Northern Germany’s leading art museum displays works in four different areas.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (the harbor is right across the street).75) for adults. U-Bahn: St. The same company offers boat tours of Hamburg’s canals and along the Elbe. in which the North Sea tides influence the water level of the Elbe River. Claude Lorrain. The cost for the tour is 10€ ($13) for adults and 5€ ($6. and Paul Klee are found in the Klassische Moderne (Modern Art) rooms. In the Alte Meister (Old Masters) galleries.25) for children younger than 16. de). The 75-minute trip costs 10€ ($13) for adults. See map p. Dazzling works by late-19th. and Canaletto. Allow yourself at least two hours to see everything on view. to 6 p. Ernst Kirchner. Max Beckmann. there is a giant network of quays.. Emil Nolde.m. The Galerie der Gegenwart (Contemporary At Gallery) displays art created since 1960. Am Anleger Jungfernstieg (% 040/357-4240.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken. 2. Excursion boats operated by Rainer Abicht (% 040/3178220.m. This former East Indies windjammer is open daily from 10 a. Tours depart from April through October daily every hour from 10 a. including works by Philipp Otto Runge and Caspar David Friedrich. Admission is 3€ ($ 3.m. from November through March. and 1:30 and 3 p. ATG-AlsterTouristik. offers daily 50-minute trips that depart about every half-hour. The best way to see the port and all its activity is by taking a guided harbor tour. a long. The 19th Century galleries display an outstanding collection of German Romantic paintings. now a museum of maritime history.50) for children. you find works by Meister Bertram. to 4 p.188 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Seeing the Alster by boat You can tour both inner (Binnen) and outer (Ausser) Alster by boat. Tourist activity centers around the St. to 6 p.m. .m. www. April through October. and drydocks..alstertouristik..m. a 19th-century clipper ship. 176.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken.m.abicht. The harbor is an open tidal port. Just southeast of Hamburg. warehouses. floating landing stage where you can embark on boat tours of the harbor.

Tours of the Rathaus and the Börse last about 30 to 45 minutes. 5€ ($6. % 040/4281-32-2380. 0.hamburgerkunsthalle. U-Bahn: Rathaus. you need to bring records with you that indicate the approximate date that your ancestors left Germany. across the canal. % 040/428-131-200. then a 2minute walk north on An der Kunsthalle).m. 176.m. Rathaus (Town Hall) Hamburg’s Rathaus.m. You can combine a visit to the Rathaus with a stop at the 16th-century Börse (Stock Exchange). To use the service. and reconstructed period rooms — from the hall of a 17th-century merchant’s house to an air-raid shelter from WWII — illustrate the different eras in Hamburg’s history..50) adults. built in the late 19th century on a foundation of oak pilings. Sun 10 a. is the largest of the old buildings in the Altstadt. is an arched passageway with upscale clothing shops. Give yourself about an hour to browse through the exhibits. You can visit the interior of this Renaissance-style structure with its 647 rooms on a guided tour. and Lübeck 189 See map p. The Alsterarkaden.–3:15 p. and noon. Glockengiesserwall 1.m.m. .m.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Pauli (then a 2-minute walk east across Millentordamm). Admission: 7. which stands back to back with the Rathaus. Tours (in English): Mon–Thurs hourly 10:15 a. and boutiques.m. Fri–Sun hourly 10:15 a. See map % 040/4283-12063.25) adults. 176 Holstenwall 24.). The museum’s office of historical emigration contains passenger lists of all the people who shipped out of Hamburg from the 1850s to about 1930. The Rathaus’s 49m-tall (160-ft.–6 p.m.50€ ($11) adults.m. On record are hundreds of thousands of emigrants’ names including the names of the cities and towns in which they originated. jewelry stores. www.50 (65¢) children. Admission: 8. Rathausplatz. Open: Tues–Sun 10 U-Bahn: St.–6 p. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (exit at Hauptbahnhof Nord.hamburgmuseum.. Bremen. (Thurs until 9 p. the city’s largest canal. Adolphsplatz 1 (% 040/3613020).–1:15 p. free for children under 18.–5 p.) clock tower overlooks Rathausmarkt and the Alsterfleet. Scale models show the changing face of the port. Admission: Rathaus tour 1€ ($1. Tracing your German ancestry The Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (see the listing above) is especially worth a visit if you have German ancestors and want to do genealogical research.25) children.50€ ($9. Guides conduct free tours of the Börse on Tuesday and Thursday at 11 a.m.m. Open: Tues–Sat 10 a. www. 176. See map p. Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (Hamburg History Museum) This museum provides a portrait of Hamburg from the 8th through 20th centuries.m.

m. St.m.m. to closing.. between Hexenberg and Grosse Elbstrasse (U-Bahn: St.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken). Jakobikirchhof 22. 176. See map p.. Oct–Mar 10 a. pictures. Jacobikirche. elephant and camel rides. 176. Admission: 15€ ($18) adults. James’s is one of only two surviving Schnitger organs in Germany. and pets at this traditional market. a train ride through a fairyland. Give yourself about 15 minutes to visit the church and tower. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a.m. a master craftsman whose instruments were played by Johann Sebastian Bach. Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Founded in 1848.m.–5 p.50€ to 14€ ($ 12–$ 17) from 11:30 a.500 animals. Hamburg’s last remaining 17th-century brick-and-timber almshouses. See map p. takes place every Sunday from 5 a. a baroque organ built in 1693 by Arp Schnitger.190 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany St. Hamburg’s zoo is home to about 2. The famous Hamburg Fischmarkt The Hamburg Fischmarkt (fish market). like so many other buildings in Hamburg.m. Open: Daily Apr–Sept 9 a. See map p.m. 1. and sculptures.hagenbeck. www. 8. in existence since 1703. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Jakobikirchhof). Michael’s. Krayenkamp 4C.10) adults. % 040/327-744. The 60-register organ at St. The nearby taverns are open to serve Fischmarkt visitors and vendors. Michaeliskirchplatz. Admission: Church free. James’s Church) WWII bombings almost completely destroyed the 13th-century Gothic St. de. you can buy flowers. vegetables. St. The crypt. One block to the south of the church are the Krameramtswohnungen. Michaelis (St. Hagenbeckallee at Steilingen.m. Open: Daily 9 a.50€ ($11) children ages 4 to 16. the rest of the year.m. completed in 1762. . % 040/540-0010.m.m. in winter). in addition to one of Hamburg’s musical treasures. U-Bahn: Hagenbeck’s Tierpark.25€ ($1.–5 p. Besides fish. (until 4:30 p. one of the largest in Europe.m. with its hammered-copper roof.–6 p. entrance on Steinstrasse.m. The rebuilt church contains several medieval altars. Admission: Free. is a famous Hamburg landmark and the principal reason to visit. to noon.–5 p. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke (then a 10-minute walk west on Michaelisstrasse). 176. A restaurant serves fixed-price meals for 9. This zoo in the northwest suburbs offers sea-lion and dolphin shows. contains the tomb of composer Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach. The tower. and a spacious children’s playground. tower 2. % 040/3767-8100. Take the elevator or climb the 449 steps to enjoy the sweeping view from the top. Sun 10 a.60) children. fruit.50€ ($3. which have been made into art galleries. is one of the finest baroque churches in northern Germany. in summer or from 7 a. Jacobikirche (St. plants. children younger than 3 free. Michael’s Church) Constructed of brick.

S-Bahn: Dammtor). Mönckebergstrasse 16 (% 040/30940). pick up a copy of the monthly Hamburger Vorschau. and winding pathways. flowering plants. The performing arts Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). 176. on langer Samstag.m.m. including a rollerskating rink. U-Bahn: Dammtor (the station is at the southeastern corner of the park). hotels. Dammtorstrasse 28 (% 040/35-68-68.hamburgische-staatsoper. Jungfernstieg 22 (% 040/359-011). restaurants. Karstadt. carries more-fashionable merchandise. run parallel to the canals. on Thursday) and on Saturday from 9 a. south of Planten and Planten und Blomen (Plants and Flowers). or any kind of local specialty or handicraft. From the Hauptbahnhof. and newsstands. to 6:30 p. Stores are generally open Monday through Friday from 9 a. and Lübeck Wallringpark 191 Four beautifully maintained parks and gardens comprise this greenbelt area west of the Altstadt and Alster Lake. is known for its rare plant specimens and greenhouses filled with tropical flora. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 48. connected transversely by Jungfernstieg and Ufer Strasse on the Binnenalster.Chapter 13: Hamburg. (until 4 or 6 p. These streets contain some of the city’s less expensive stores. A miniature railway connects all four parks. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse). the first Sat of the month). (some until 8 p. to 2 p. is the home of the . with rock gardens.m. You can buy tickets at venue box offices. www. two major shopping streets fan out in a southwesterly direction toward the Rathaus: the pedestrian-only Spitalerstrasse and Mönckebergstrasse. miniature trees. contains the largest Japanese garden in Europe. Admission: Free.m.m. The Kleine (small) and Grosse (large) Wallanlagen parks contain many recreational facilities. Less expensive is Kaufhof. which offers better deals on merchandise markdowns. at tourist offices. but don’t expect to find many bargains. is part of a departmentstore chain that carries many of the same brands and items as the other leading department stores. The Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden). Bremen. laid out in 1936. See map p. Shopping in Hamburg Hamburg is a big shopping city. Alsterhaus. Landesbank-Galerie (% 040/337-124. or through the service Theaterkasse Central. Living it up after dark in Hamburg To find out what’s happening in Hamburg. one of the world’s leading opera houses. available at tourist offices. Two of the city’s oldest and most prestigious shopping streets. playgrounds. Mönckebergstrasse 3 (% 040/333-070). and an ice-skating rink in winter. Grosse Bleichen and Neuer Wall.m.

The following list gives a small sampling of the only English-speaking theater in the northern part of Germany. free admission for women Friday and Saturday after midnight. The club is open year-round Monday through Saturday from 8 p. plays host to concerts by the Hamburg Symphony. and the NDR Symphony. ߜ Molotow. and music scenes Hamburg is famous for its nightlife. ߜ Cotton Club.192 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg State Opera and the Hamburg Ballet. The ticket office is at Grosstheaterstrasse 34. Tickets range from 7€ to 25€ ($8. Cover is 5€ to 25€ ($6. in addition to performances by choirs. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke). One exception is the English Theatre of Hamburg.m.englishtheatre.S. If someone catches your fancy. features jazz and Dixieland bands from throughout Europe and the U. Hamburg has dozens of theaters.75–$31). to 4 a. dance clubs. Alter Steinweg 10 (% 040/343-878.25–$11). ߜ Bayrisch Zell. and to 6 a. Wednesday and Sunday and at 11 p. Ticket prices vary from program to program. chamber orchestras. in St. the Hamburg Philharmonic. you can call him or her from the phone on your table. Today this cultural institution is a free-for-all venue with acts that change nightly. from September to April. it’s also open Sunday from 11 a. Thursday. is one of the most popular places in the St. is where The Beatles performed in their earliest days. soul. with meals ranging from 5€ to 15€ ($6.25–$182). Pauli. Grosse Freiheit 36 (% 040/317-7711. beer halls. Spielbudenplatz 5 (% 040/31-08-45. Friday. jazz. too. a giant beer hall. Reeperbahn 10 (% 040/314-281. Spielbudenplatz 7 (% 040/319-3215. U-Bahn: Messehallen). S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). attracting singles and couples young and old.m. bar. Thursday to Sunday and has no set closing time. The club.m.m. Cover is 5€ to 9€ ($6. www. and guest artists. Pauli district. ߜ Club Grosse Freiheit. Cover is 2€ to 14€ ($2. Saturday. to 5 a. to 3 p. to midnight. depending on the band.m.m. and live-music venues: ߜ After Shave.m.50–$17).25–$31). and fusion.25–$19). but you need to understand German to enjoy the productions. The club opens at 9 p. Ticket prices range from 5€ to 146€ ($6. Lerchenfeld 14 (% 040/227-7089.m. to 3 a. is one of the hottest dance clubs in Hamburg.m. The club is open from 11 p. The food is okay. U-Bahn: Mundsburg). S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). a dance club for 20. nightclubs. .to 30-year-olds. features funk.m. especially if you’re into funk. Cover charge is 4€ to 15€ ($5–$19). the oldest and best established of the Hamburg jazz clubs. The Musikhalle. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). The hall is open daily from 7 p. Johannes-Brahms-Platz (% 040/35-68-68.

Many of the prostitutes who work there today are licensed and must submit to a medical examination every two weeks. The name literally translates as “Rope Street” and refers to the nautical rope produced there during the 18th and 19th centuries. Nobistor 10A (% 040/3178-4126). You must reserve in advance. to midnight. a street whose name appropriately translates as “Great Freedom. and events. The district also contains the Erotic Art Museum. and restaurants (although I don’’t recommend dining in this area). thousands of “working girls” strut their stuff along the Reeperbahn and through St. with a dense concentration of gay shops. Pauli district. where bordellos line both sides of the street. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). cabarets. and Lübeck 193 St. the museum presents its displays and changing exhibits in a way that’s both academic and titillating. Pauli is a place to visit at night. along a half-mile thoroughfare called the Reeperbahn (pronounced ray-per-bahn. St. Pauli.hurentours. admission is 8€ ($10).. Historical Whores Tours (% 01805/125-225. Pauli’s streets.. and the women display themselves behind plate-glass windows. The district’s sexrelated bars and theaters are up and running by 8 p.m.m. is one of the major gay centers of Europe. The place where it all hangs out is the St. just west of the offers one of the world’s more unusual walking tours. had become a hangout for sailors and prostitutes. the 90-minute walking tour takes you to various places around the harbor and tells the whore’s side of the story. lists the city’s many gay and lesbian clubs. called Hafen und Huren (Harbors and Whores). like Berlin. St. restaurants. The area is not exclusively devoted to sex. or overt solicitation.” is known for its erotic theaters. Between midnight and 5 a. bars. The free magazine Dorn Rosa. Friday and Saturday from 10 a. Open to those older than 16. and you do find all kinds of theaters (mostly for musicals and comedies).m. www. Please note that women are not welcome on Herbertstrasse.m. and cafes along Lange Reihe just northeast of the train station (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).Chapter 13: Hamburg. which includes a glass of schnapps at tour’s end. Led by a professional guide dressed as a 19th-century Hamburg prostitute (the costume is not what you’d call sexy). discos. Grosse Freiheit. The most famous street besides the Reeperbahn itself is Herbertstrasse. bars. Pauli and the Reeperbahn: For adults only Commercialized sex is a major tourist attraction in Hamburg. Herbertstrasse is open only to men older than 18. metal gates block each end of the street. Municipal regulations forbid prostitution. By the mid-1800s. inside erotic theaters. at the corner of Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit. who set up shop with the legal sanction of municipal authorities. and may even be doused with a bucket of water if they enter. Gay and lesbian clubs Hamburg. . Bremen. which is close to Hamburg’s great harbor. distributed at most gay and lesbian bars. The museum is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a. cost is 20€ ($25) per person.m. bars. to 2 a.

194 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
A Side Trip: Bremen
Bremen, 120km (75 miles) southwest of Hamburg, has a history that dates back some 1,200 years. (See the “Bremen” map in this chapter.) Located on the Weser River, which flows to the North Sea, it already was a significant port when it was made an Episcopal see in 787. During the Middle Ages, Bremen was one of the strongest members of the Hanseatic League, and in 1646, it became a Free Imperial City. Silting of the Weser led to the establishment of Bremerhaven, Bremen’s deepwater port at the mouth of the Weser, in 1827. With a population of about half a million people, Bremen is the second-most important foreign trade location in the Federal Republic, after Hamburg. Although it’s mostly an industrial city that was badly damaged in WWII, enough remains in old Bremen to make for an intriguing daytrip from Hamburg.

Getting to Bremen
By train, the trip time from Hamburg is less than an hour. For train information and schedules, call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). If you’re driving, Bremen is a major junction on the A1 Autobahn between Hamburg and the Rhineland. Bremen Flughafen (Airport; % 0421/55-950) has flights from major cities in Germany and Europe.

Finding information and taking a tour
Bremer-Touristik-Zentrale (% 01805/10-10-30; www.bremen-tourism. de) operates tourist information offices at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station; open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat–Sun 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.). A second branch at Obernstrasse/Liebfrauenkirchhof also is open Monday to Friday 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. If you decide to stay overnight in Bremen, this office will help you find a hotel or pension. Guided bus tours, conducted in German and English, depart Tuesday through Sunday year-round at 10:30 a.m. from the Central Coach Station (Rank M) just behind the tourist information office at the main train station. The tour lasts two hours and costs 15€ ($19) for adults and 9.50€ ($12) for children younger than 13. Guided walking tours, with Englishspeaking guides, depart daily at 2 p.m. from mid-May to early October, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. in January and February, from the tourist information office at the main train station. They last two hours, and cost 6.50€ ($8), free for children younger than 13. Buy your tickets at the tourist office.

Dining in Bremen
The Ratskeller below Bremen’s Rathaus, Am Markt (% 0421/32-16-76), is a wonderfully atmospheric place to try North German regional specialties such as Bremer Festtagsuppe (a beef consommé with meatballs, noodles, and vegetables), Bremer Fischtopf (diced salmon, haddock, and red snapper in a vegetable stock), herring with sour cream and roasted

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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potatoes, and Flammkuchen, a pizzalike dish with mushrooms, herbs, and cheese. This is also a good place to try a Probierportion (sample portion) of Labkaus, a delicious corned-beef hash mixed with pickled herring, topped with a fried egg, and served with dill pickles and beets. The adjoining restaurant, Vor dem Bacchus, serves fresh fish. Main courses go for 10€ to 22€ ($13–$27). The restaurants are open daily from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. See map above.




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196 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Exploring Bremen
Bremen’s main sights are in the Altstadt, clustered around Marktplatz (Market Square), the center of Bremen life for more than a millennium. Most of the compact oval Altstadt, with the Weser River along the south side and the Stadtgraben canal on the north, is a pedestrian zone and can easily be explored on foot. Recent restoration work has brightened up the center and its many historic buildings. From Bahnhofsplatz in front of the train station, head south to Herdentor and the bridge that crosses the Stadtgraben canal. To your right, in the Wallanlagen, the pretty parkland along the canal (formerly the city wall stood here), you’ll see a large Dutch-style windmill. At one time, more than a dozen windmills operated in this area. At the beginning of Sögestrasse (Sow Street), a bronze swineherd and a herd of bronze sows and piglets commemorates the street where medieval butchers kept their pigs. A short walk south brings you to the Marktplatz, where a 15th-century sandstone statue of Knight Roland, the city’s protector, stands guard beside the Rathaus. Bremen’s impressive three-story Rathaus (Town Hall; % 0421/36-10) has been standing on the Marktplatz for 600 years and was untouched by the bombing raids of WWII. The main Gothic structure was built in 1405, but in 1612 the upper section of the facade was redone in what is known as Weser Renaissance style. (Weser Renaissance, a term applied to architecture created in and around the Weser River valley between 1520 and 1620, is characterized by ornate decoration on classically proportioned buildings.) Inside, the upper hall with its beautifully carved early-17thcentury oak staircase and mural of The Judgment of Solomon (1537), was used as council chamber and courtroom. You can visit the Rathaus on 45minute guided tours Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m., noon, 3 and 4 p.m., and on Sunday at 11 a.m. and noon. Admission is 4€ ($5) adults, 2€ ($2.50) children and students. You can dine in the historic Ratskeller beneath the building (see “Dining in Bremen,” earlier in this section). Walk around to the west end of the Rathaus to see Bremen’s most famous characters, the Bremen Town Musicians from the Grimm’s fairy tale of the same name. Local artist Gerhard Marcks created the bronze sculpture of a donkey, dog, cat, and cock in 1951.

Chocolate lovers take note
Hachez, a famous Bremen chocolatier founded in 1890, occupies a charming 18thcentury patrician house near the Rathaus. The shop, Stoevesandt-Diele, Am Markt 1 (% 0421/50-90-00), is a chocolate-lover’s emporium where you can find sweet specialties such as chocolate champagne truffles.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


Bells are ringing on Böttcher Street
Böttcherstrasse, running from Marktplatz to the Weser River, is one of the most architecturally intriguing streets in Germany and one of Bremen’s most noteworthy attractions. Ludwig Roselius, a rich Bremen merchant who invented decaffeinated coffee, paid for the construction of the redbrick buildings that line the street, which was dedicated in 1926 and rebuilt after World War II. Part of the narrow brick-paved street was built in an avant-garde German expressionist style; the other part was meant to look more traditionally medieval. The street is lined with shops, crafts workshops, restaurants, two museums, and galleries. Time your visit to hear the carillon of bells made of Meissen porcelain. Every hour between noon and 6 p.m. (Jan–Apr at noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m.), they play a tune for a full 15 minutes as a sequence of woodcarved panels in a revolving tower tells the story of transatlantic aviators.

Directly opposite the Rathaus stands the Schütting, a 16th-century guild hall today used by the chamber of commerce (not open to the public). Adding a modern architectural touch to the ancient square is the Haus der Bürgerschaft, constructed in 1966 and home of Bremen’s Parliament. Free 20-minute tours of the building are given Monday to Friday at 2 p.m. At the southeast end of the Marktplatz, towering majestically over the entire Altstadt, is St. Petri-Dom (St. Peter’s Cathedral), Sandstrasse 10–12 (% 0421/36-50-40), originally constructed in 1043 as the archbishop’s church and rebuilt in the 16th and 19th centuries. Other than the 12thcentury bronze baptismal font in one of the Romanesque crypts there is not much of exceptional interest within the cathedral, which is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday 2 to 5 p.m. From Easter through October you can climb to the top of the cathedral towers for a panoramic view of the Altstadt. The Dom Museum (Cathedral Museum; % 0421/365-04-41) displays artifacts discovered during a restoration of the cathedral in the early 1970s, including vestments found in archbishops’ graves and 15th-century wall paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder. More interesting than the museum is the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), reached by going outside and around to the side of the cathedral. It contains a bizarre collection of mummified corpses — 16th- and 17th-century lords, ladies, students, and soldiers, plus a cat and a monkey — whose leathery bodies were found in graves beneath and around the cathedral. Admission for the cathedral museum and the Lead Cellar is 1.50€ ($2) for adults, 1€ ($1.25) for students and children; both are open the same hours as the cathedral, but the Lead Cellar is closed November to Easter. The Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum, Böttcherstrasse 6–10 (% 0421/ 336-5077), is dedicated to Bremen’s outstanding painter (1876–1907) and contains many of her best works, including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

198 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Admission is 5€ ($6.25) for adults and 3€ ($3.75) for children. With the same ticket, you can visit the nearby Museum im Roselius Haus (same address, phone, and hours), a 16th-century merchant’s home filled with Ludwig Roselius’s collection of medieval art and furniture. Böttcherstrasse leads to the Schlachte embankment along the Weser River. The riverside promenade is lined with taverns and restaurants and is the locale of the Weserflohmarkt (Weser Flea Market), open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Schlachte embankment also is where you find guided boat trips (in German only) around the harbor. Boats depart from the landing in front of the Martinikirche (St. Martin’s Church) every day from April through October at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. on a voyage that lasts about 75 minutes. The cost is 8.50€ ($11) for adults and 4.50€ ($5.50) for children. A five-minute walk southeast from the Schlachte brings you to the charming albeit touristy Schnoor district, Bremen’s oldest surviving quarter. The 16th- and 17th-century cottages in the Schnoor once were the homes of simple fishermen. In an effort to revive old arts and crafts, they’re now rented to artists and artisans. Sightseers visit not only for the atmosphere but also for the unusual restaurants, shops, and art galleries.

Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own
Seven Gothic church spires rise above the picturesque town of Lübeck, located 66km (41 miles) northeast of Hamburg in the state of SchleswigHolstein. (See the “Lübeck” map in this chapter.) Along the ancient streets of its Altstadt, you find more buildings from the 13th to the 15th centuries than in any other city in northern Germany. Most of the buildings, including the churches, are fine examples of the redbrick architecture so characteristic of northern Germany. The city’s architectural heritage is so rich that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) placed Lübeck on its World Heritage list of international monuments. UNESCO bestows World Heritage status to places judged to have exceptional cultural and historic value. From the 13th century on, Lübeck was capital of the Hanseatic League, the powerful association of merchants that controlled trade along the Baltic as far as Russia. The town still retains the name Hansestadt Lübeck. Lübeck makes a rewarding daytrip from Hamburg, less than an hour away by train, but its charms may beguile you to stay overnight. With its enormous churches, high-gabled houses, massive gates, and historic buildings at every turn, Lübeck is a delightful city to explore.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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200 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Lübeck’s Nobel sons
Lübeck has had several famous sons, notably Thomas Mann and Willy Brandt. As a young man, Brandt (1913–1992), who later became West German chancellor and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971, opposed the Nazis so vehemently that he had to flee on a boat to Norway. The Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck at 21 Königstrasse is in the process of being restored and is expected to open in 2007. The writer Thomas Mann (1875– 1955) used his hometown of Lübeck as the setting for his novel Buddenbrooks, which catapulted the 27-year-old author to international fame in 1902. In 1929, Mann won the Nobel Prize for literature. The Buddenbrookhaus (described in “Walking through Lübeck,” in this chapter), which belonged to Mann’s grandparents, is a place of literary pilgrimage for fans of Mann. Günter Grass, author of The Tin Drum, won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1999. Although he was not born in Lübeck, he lives nearby. The relationship between Grass’s literary output and his artwork is explored in the permanent exhibits at the Günther Grass House, Glockengiesserstrasse 21 (% 0451/1224231;, which opened in 2002. Here you can see some of Grass’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures. Grass unleashed a torrent of criticism in 2006 when he revealed, in advance of the publication of his autobiography, that he had served in the Nazi Waffen SS at age 17; some critics suggested the Nobel Prize committee should revoke Grass’s prize. The museum is open daily April through October from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., November through March 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults, 2.20€ ($2.75) students and children.

Getting there
By train, you can reach Lübeck from anywhere in Germany or Europe. Dozens of trains arrive daily from Hamburg, only 40 minutes away. For train schedules and information, call German Rail (% 11861) or visit their Web site ( By boat, you can take a passenger or car ferry service between Denmark (the port of Rødbyhaven) and Lübeck (the port of Puttgarden). ScandLines (% 04371/865-161; offers daily departures. TT Saga Line (% 04502/80181; operates between the German port of Travemünde and the Swedish port of Trelleborg. By car, you can reach Lübeck via the A1 Autobahn north and south.

Finding information and taking a walking tour
In the train station, Touristinformation Hauptbahnhof (% 0451/864675) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m. The Lübeck und Travemünde Tourist Service Welcome Center, Holstentorplatz 1 (% 01805/882-233; 0.12€/15¢ per minute;, across from the Holstentor Museum, is open January through May and October through November, Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


3 p.m.; June through September and December, hours are Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. This office can help you with hotel reservations. Two-hour walking tours (6€/$7.50) of the historic city depart from the Holstentor tourist office Monday through Saturday at 2 p.m. (additional walks at 11 a.m. July–Sept) and on Sundays year-round at 11 a.m.

Orienting yourself
The Trave and Wakenitz rivers and other waterways encircle Lübeck’s Altstadt, an oval-shaped island a little more than a mile long and less than a mile wide. Eight bridges connect the old town with greater Lübeck on the mainland. Only about 12,000 residents (out of about 225,000) live on the island, which is where all the major attractions are located.

Getting around Lübeck
The Altstadt and all the major attractions can be reached on foot from the train station. You also can take buses 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, or 16 from the train station into the Altstadt. The fare is 2€ ($2.50). A fun and relaxing way to see Lübeck is by water. Excursion boats operated by MAAK-Linie (% 0451/706-3859; leave from docks on the Trave River just north of the Holstentor. In summer, departures are hourly between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (11 a.m.–4 p.m. the rest of the year). The trip (commentary in German with English text available) lasts one hour and encircles the entire Altstadt. Cost is 7€ ($8.75) for adults, 5.50€ ($7) for seniors, and 3€ ($3.75) for children.

Staying in Lübeck
Lübeck offers a full range of hotel options, from small inns and pensions to modern facilities. To enjoy the ancient, atmospheric charms of Lübeck, I recommend that you choose a hotel in the Altstadt. The Lübeck and Travemünde Tourist Service (see “Finding information and taking a walking tour” earlier in this chapter) also can help you find a room.

Special events in Lübeck
The Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival, one of the best music festivals in Germany, occurs in Lübeck (which has a famed music school) with performances from early July until the end of August every year. For more information, call % 0800/7463-2002 or log on to A popular Christmas market featuring handmade wares from all across northwestern Germany takes place during the three weeks preceding Christmas.

202 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Klassik Altstadt Hotel
$ –$$ Altstadt
If you want to stay in a smaller, older hotel in the Altstadt, Klassik Altstadt Hotel is a good choice. The 28 individually decorated rooms, all named for famous Lübeckers, have a pleasant, traditional style. Most of the bathrooms have showers; a few have tubs. The on-site restaurant is good and moderately priced. See map p. 199. Fischergrube 52, 23552 Lübeck. % 0451/702980. Fax: 0451/73778. Rates: 77€–130€ ($96–$162) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

Radisson SAS Senator Hotel Lübeck
$$$ Altstadt
If you want a modern, full-service hotel, the Radisson is the best place to stay. A pedestrian bridge connects the hotel from its riverside location to the Altstadt. The 231 medium-sized rooms are attractively furnished. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Amenities include an on-site health club with pool, sauna, and steam rooms, and a computer in the lobby that enables you to check your e-mail. Children up to age 12 stay for free in their parents’ room. See map p. 199. Willy-Brandt-Allee 6, 23554 Lübeck. % 800/333-3333 in the U.S. or 0451/1420. Fax: 0451/142-2222. Rates: 160€ ($200). AE, MC, V.

Dining in Lübeck
As you may have guessed, fresh seafood from the North and Baltic seas is featured on the menus of many restaurants in Lübeck. In this section are a few good restaurants where you can dine well in historic surroundings.

Historischer Weinkeller
$$ –$$$ Altstadt
The Historischer Weinkeller, located beneath the 13th-century HeiligenGeist-Hospital (see the “Walking through Lübeck” section next), is an excellent and atmospheric restaurant with an international menu. You can choose from several different fixed-priced menus, including a summertime “lübsche Gasterei” (Lübeck hospitality), a seven-course medieval feast. You may begin with smoked Norwegian salmon, gooseliver pâté, or a fishbased soup. Entrees range from filet of cod with sauerkraut and poached haddock in a mustard sauce to meat dishes and vegetarian choices. Note: This restaurant is divided into two sections, the Kartoffelkeller (potato cellar) and the Weinkeller (wine cellar); of the two, the Weinkeller is the more pleasant place to dine. See map p. 199. Koberg 8. % 0451/76234. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($18–$25). Fixedprice menu 25€–40€ ($31–$50). AE, MC, V. Open: Daily noon to midnight.

199. Main courses: 8€–25€ ($10– $31). decorated with wooden ship models hanging from the ceiling. to midnight. followed by fresh fish from the Baltic Sea. to 6 p. stop in at Cafe Niederegger. The service is attentive. According to legend. Main courses: 15€–23€ ($18–$29). The fish here is excellent and recommended. this historic restaurant is a good place to enjoy regional specialties. a sweet almond paste.-mile) area around the . Then I’d recommend the fish plate. MC. On the ground floor. especially fish. or you can go upstairs to the pleasant cafe for dessert and coffee. V.m. V. MC. and Lübeck 203 The sweet side of Lübeck Lübeck is the world capital of Marzipan. and 6–11 p. To sample Lübeck’s famous Marzipan.000 medieval buildings still stand within a 5-sq. you sit at wooden tables lit by candlelight.-km (2-sq. AE.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Try the crab soup. you can purchase bars and boxes of Marzipan to take away (an excellent gift idea). more modern dining room behind it. They were so pleased with the sweet results that they’ve been making Marzipan ever since. % 0451/76776. Ristorante Roberto Rossi im Schabbelhaus $$ –$$$ Altstadt Occupying two elegant town houses on a lovely medieval street.m. located right across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806. Niederegger’s is open daily from 9 a. Mengstrasse 48–52. and the staff is friendly and professional. Open: Daily 10 a. there’s a lighter. if available. Schiffergesellschaft $$ –$$$ Altstadt A popular spot for tourists and locals alike.m. About one-fifth of the Altstadt was destroyed in a 1942 bombing. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. An English-language menu is available to help guide your choices. In the front dining room. As a starter. Bremen. Breite Strasse 2. You also can get pasta dishes such as tagliatelle with fresh mushrooms or with salmon and lemon. Reservations recommended.m. Walking through Lübeck Concentrate your sightseeing in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt. The atmospheric dining room overlooks a small garden.m. 199. Breitestrasse 98 (% 0451/53010). and the tasting menus are good value for money. % 0451/72011. Lübeckers ran out of flour during a long siege and started grinding almonds to make bread. dinner 39€–57€ ($49–$71). order “herring three ways” on black bread. Schabbelhaus serves good Italian cuisine and some classic North German dishes. See map p. fixed-price menus lunch 18€–22€ ($22–$27). the wine list is excellent. See map p. which comes with three different kinds of fish. surrounded by the Trave River and its canals. but approximately 1. AE. all delicious.

m. models of Hanseatic Kogge (cogs. 1. the cost is 3€ ($3. Black glazedbrick courses (horizontal lines) and round panels emblazoned with coats of arms adorn the redbrick walls. stand the Salzspeicher (Salt Lofts).204 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Marktplatz.. you reach Lübeck’s Rathaus. where the salt was used to preserve fish.75) for adults and 1. is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The Rathaus was rebuilt several times since the first foundation stone was laid in 1230. Schüsselbuden 13 (% 0451/397-700). Here you’ll find the new tourist Welcome Center and the newly revamped Museum Holstentor (% 0451/122-4129). From the train station. The bridge got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its stone railings. the Markt is the site of Lübeck’s famous Christmas Market. cross the Puppenbrücke (Dolls’ Bridge) and head east into the Altstadt. Rathausplatz (% 0451/122-1005). once the main town entrance.m. shops. directly in front of you is the 15thcentury Holstentor (Holsten Gate).m.25) for students and children under 18. The Rathaus stands on the north and east sides of the Marktplatz. or single-sail vessels). one of the oldest and most beautiful city halls in Germany. 3. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. 1€ ($1. After you enter the Altstadt. The present building. a large square filled with meat. 4. Just south. topped by slender turrets. Merchants stored salt (considered “white gold”) from nearby Lüneburg in these buildings before shipping it to Scandinavia. with stops at museums.m. to 6 p. In December. Mary’s Church). Builders used brick as the predominant material for houses. the oldest dates from 1579. Continuing a few blocks east on Holstenstrasse. a group of six gabled Renaissance buildings. The entire walk.m. The Marienkirche served as a model for many . the twin-towered Marienkirche (St. fruit.. takes about four to five hours. 2. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. You can see the interior on a guided tour (in German) Monday through Friday at noon and 3 p. and guild halls. and vegetable stalls every Monday and Thursday. The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures. What follows are the stops on a walking tour of the Altstadt that begins at the Hauptbahnhof (train station). the newest from 1745. The building sits on brick arcades that allow easy access to the main entrance on Breite Strasse. and medieval torture instruments. churches. You can see everything in less than 30 minutes. Towering above the Markt and the Rathaus is one of northern Germany’s most outstanding examples of the brick Gothic style.50€ ($2) for children and students. to 6 p. a local history museum housed within the gate and contains a model of Lübeck as the town appeared in the mid 17th century. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. across the street from the Holstentor.

Organ concerts take place during the summer and fall.m. If you’re a fan of the great German writer Thomas Mann.m. and Lübeck 205 other churches built in the Baltic a few blocks north of the Rathaus. the source of the movie The Blue Angel. 7. The museum. the childhood home of Willi Brandt.) high. Königstrasse 9–11 (% 0451/122-4148).buddenbrookhaus. you find the Günther Grass Haus museum. letters.m. 5. and has exhibits relating to the city’s cultural life in the 18th and 19th centuries. just to the south of the Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. left as a reminder and warning of the horrors of war.. to 5 p. from birth to death. at Glockengiesser 21. carrying on a tradition established by St.Chapter 13: Hamburg. whose works include Death in Venice.m. for information. Step through the ornamented baroque portal (open 9 a. 1€ ($1. solid. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter for more information. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter. At Königstrasse 21. Heinrich Mann (1871–1950). On the second floor are period rooms and artifacts. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. to noon and 3–6 p. 36m (120 ft. Mengstrasse 4 (% 0451/122-4192.m. plan to spend at least half an hour at Buddenbrookhaus. former West German chancellor and Nobel Peace Prize winner.) and you enter a tranquil courtyard with houses still occupied by widows. The Magic Mountain. 4.m.m. 9. the tower bells crashed down into the church and embedded themselves in the stone floor. The house is open daily April through October from 10 a. and Ernst Barlach. an almshouse built in the 17th century for the widows of seamen and merchants. just north of the Marienkirche. Dietrich Buxtehude (1637–1707). to 6 p. also displays major 20th-century artists such as Leon Kirchner. 8. At Glockengiesserstrasse 25. and that of his family. www. . was the author of Professor Unrat. Mann’s brother. is in the process of being restored and will become the Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck. 6.25) for students and children 6 to 18. and documents chronicling Mann’s life. to 6 p. During a WWII bombing attack.m. you find a comprehensive collection of photographs. the rest of the year from 11 a.. An outstanding collection of German Romantic and German Impressionist paintings is on view at Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. Mary’s best-known organist and composer. is the Füchtingshof.60€ ($6) for students. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. They still are there. to 5 p. Max Beckmann. Its central nave.m. Inside. This big. and Buddenbrooks. admission is 7€ ($9) for adults. Next door.m. Bremen. has the highest brick vaulting in the world. formed from two 18th-century town houses. stone-and-stucco house with a gabled roof belonged to Mann’s grandparents and was the model for the family home Mann wrote about in Buddenbrooks.

(Salt was considered “white gold. You can see everything in about half an hour.25) for students and children 6 to 18. Peter’s Church). 14. The church was destroyed in WWII and later rebuilt. The building is open daily from 10 a.).m.m. In the early 19th century. Housed in a 16th-century Augustinian convent that was later used as an almshouse and a prison.m.25) for students and children. is one of the oldest social-welfare institutions in Europe. Mühlendamm 2–6 (% 0451/74704). 12. Philanthropic local citizens founded the hospital in 1230. Construction on this massive edifice began in 1173. Schmiedestrasse (% 0451/397330). Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. 130 tiny wooden cabins without ceilings were built within its enormous main hall. To round off your tour of Lübeck. Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. the church is open daily from 9 a.m. and you can poke your head inside them (no admission charge. 49–51.m. The Glandorps-Gang. with its belfry and four turreted spires. open Tues–Sun 10 a. Am Koburg (% 0451/122-2040). you find the St. 1€ ($1. Except for its size. head over to the 750-year-old Petrikirche (St. to 6 p. On the south side of town.m. From March through September.50€ ($3) for adults. 11.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. St.m. including a work by Hans Memling. The black glaze comes from salt being sprinkled on the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder..–5 p. and one of the most important monumental buildings of the Middle Ages. at nos. Admission is 2.”) 10. you find Lübeck’s Dom. Two blocks northeast of the Dom. 13.206 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany White gold and black bricks In Lübeck and in other cities in northern Germany. to 6 p.-Annen-Strasse 15 (% 0451/122-4137). . This building. when the building was converted to a shelter for elderly men and women. the church itself isn’t that interesting. are the city’s oldest almshouses.-Annen-Museum. to 7 p.m. at no. A short distance to the north stands the Heiligen-Geist-Hospital (Hospital of the Holy Spirit). 1€ ($1. you’ll sometimes see medieval redbrick buildings decorated with black glazed bricks. dating from 1612 and built for the widows of merchants and craftsmen. to 6 p. The cabins remain intact. the museum has a noteworthy collection of medieval and Renaissance altarpieces. and the Glandorps-Hof. 41. and take the elevator up to the top of its tower for a memorable view of Lübeck and its port.

winding roads lead through spruce-covered hills to unspoiled villages that waft you back to the Middle Ages. S Dresden: Florence on the Elbe Dresden. is the cultural jewel in Thuringia’s crown. historic buildings. In Saxony. Both states are rich in sightseeing possibilities. (See the “Saxony and Thuringia” map in this chapter.) The cities of Dresden and Leipzig. Leipzig. author of Faust) and the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The Frauenkirche is a symbol of what Dresden once was — a city known as “Florence on the Elbe. Weimar. famed for its river scenery.” and renowned for its architecture and art treasures — and hopes to become again. associated with Goethe (Germany’s greatest writer. and musical heritage. Thuringia is considered the “green heart” of Germany because the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) covers much of its southern portion. Narrow. the mighty Elbe River flows through an area near Dresden known as Saxon Switzerland. and Weimar: Jewels of the East In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Dresden and its famous museums ᮣ Discovering old and new Leipzig ᮣ Enjoying the beautiful town of Weimar ᮣ Remembering the past at Buchenwald axony and Thuringia (Thüringen in German) are side-by-side Länder (states) in eastern Germany that are well worth visiting. are the largest cities in Saxony. with their outstanding museums. Perhaps the most important celebratory event was the reopening of the famous domed Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). Dresden became the most important city in Saxony when the ruling Wettin . located 198km (123 miles) south of Berlin and 111km (69 miles) southeast of Leipzig. celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006. destroyed in the bombings of World War II (WWII).Chapter 14 Dresden.

More than a dozen trains make the daily trip from Berlin (2–21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (41⁄2 hours). Lufthansa and other international carriers provide regularly scheduled service between Dresden and cities throughout Germany and Europe. By plane Flughafen Dresden (% 0351/881-3360. The easiest and least expensive way to get into the city center is by the Flughafen S-Bahn (airport train). and a good road network. is the most ambitious reconstruction effort in the entire country and marks an important stage in Dresden’s recovery. For rail information and schedules. Dresden flourished as one of the great cultural centers of Europe. Historic buildings have since been rebuilt. You can buy your ticket at the S-Bahn window in the underground station beneath the new terminal. Dresden emerged as the top contender for tourists in the former East Germany. Dresden-Neustadt. A taxi from the airport to the center of Dresden costs about 16€ ($20). Then came the night of February 13. is used more for regional trains. on Wiener Platz on the south side of the Elbe. when Allied firebombs destroyed three-quarters of Dresden’s Altstadt. Many visitors come just to visit the museums in the Zwinger Palace and to see the treasures of the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). www. frequent train service. in the reopened portion of the Residenzschloss (palace). The trip takes about 20 minutes and costs 1.70€ ($2).de. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861. the preeminent personality in the town’s history.208 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Dynasty decided to make the city its capital in the late 15th century.dresden-airport. Under the rule of Elector Augustus the Strong. . Around it you find nearly all of Dresden’s major attractions. or visit their Web site www. The reconstruction of the Frauenkirche. which runs from the airport to the two main train stations. the beautiful old core of the city.bahn. at Schlesischer Park. including the Airport S-Bahn. By train Getting to Dresden by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe is easy. within walking distance of Altstadt (Old Town). but the work has taken decades. This major city has an airport. the station on the north side of the river. 1945. All long-distance trains pull into the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). lies 9km (51⁄2 miles) north of the city center. Getting there Getting to Dresden is easy. stop at both stations. although some trains. After reunification. the city using original plans and even some of the original stone (bombed pieces of which were found in the Elbe). Dresden has two main rail stations.

Leipzig.Chapter 14: Dresden. and Weimar 209 Saxony and Thuringia 0 0 20 km 20 mi N 103 Airport E251 E28 POLAND E26 E55 167 A11 Eberswalde d e r O AN Y Berlin SAXONYANHALT 107 102 5 273 A10 E55 GERM THURINGIA Brandenburg Potsdam E51 A115 Berlin E55 A12 E30 189 Area of Detail E30 2 A13 87 Magdeburg El 81 71 A9 E51 102 Lübben Lübbenau bbenau be R iv Wittenberg er 187 Dessau E55 A13 2 87 101 97 6 91 Quedlinburg Eisleben 6 80 Halle Leipzig A14 Meissen Dresden 173 4 93 88 A4 E40 Buchenwald 7 Erfurt To Eisenach Dornburg Weimar Jena A4 E40 2 Altenburg E55 Chemnitz 174 E441 Arnstadt Th ür in ge Plauen E442 r E49 4 W al d E51 Hof E49 E48 Karlovy Vary 6 Coburg 279 C Z E C H 27 R E P U B L I C A70 E48 21 E49 Bayreuth A93 22 Bamberg A73 To Nuremberg Plzen E50 E50 .

dresden-tourist.m. Trying to find a parking spot in the center of Dresden isn’t easy. Pretty 19th-century houses reconstructed to hold shops. Neustadt. The A4 comes in from Leipzig and Bavaria (eventually the A4 will connect Dresden to Prague). www. The city’s transport authority. and cafes. Prager Strasse. On the south side.m. and Sunday (Schinkelwache only) 10 a.m.m..210 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany By car The A13 Autobahn connects Dresden to Berlin. or concert tickets. www. On the north side of the river is Dresden-Neustadt. and boat tours in the Dresden area. at Theaterplatz Square. Prager Strasse (% 0351/491-920.. Germany’s reunification triggered a real estate and reconstruction boom in this picturesque neighborhood of art galleries. the newly restored and ferries in Dresden and admission to all the top museums. Getting around Dresden If you plan to visit only the historic center of Dresden. Finding information At the Information Center. city tours. its main streets. a wide pedestrian street lined with shops. but the major lines continue to operate every hour. to 6 p.dvbag. near the main train station. including art museums. and the Semper Opera House. % 0351/857-1011. Dresdner Verkehrsbetriebe (DVB. to 4 p. churches in the Altmarkt (Old Market) and Neumarkt (New Market) squares. between the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) and the river. Service is limited after midnight. and Wilder Mann) lead into the center. The Dresden Card is good for 48 hours on all trams. The cost is 19€ ($24). you can book a hotel room and purchase a map of Dresden and information booklets in English. You also can buy theater. Hellerau. you find all the major cultural attractions. you can easily get around on foot. boutiques. I recommend that you park on the outskirts and travel to the city center by bus or tram. Orienting yourself The Elbe River divides Dresden more or less in half. The hours for both are Monday through Friday 10 a.m. Saturday 10 a. and restaurants line Hauptstrasse and Königstrasse. buses. The same services are available at the Information Center located in the Schinkelwache (Old City Guard House). is the main thoroughfare (and site of the main tourist information office). maintains an extensive system of bus and tram lines within the city and far out into the suburbs.m. hotels. . You can buy the Dresden Card at the tourist information centers. and restaurants. You also get reduced prices for other museums. apartments. the Zwinger Palace museums. to 4 p. The highways run along the west side of the city. Four exits (Altstadt. including those in the Zwinger and the Albertinum.

25 mi 0.25 km ag se bu ienMar cke brü ra Ter ss e Albertstrasse sse e ss H au p chs tra tst Frie dri St ra ras er 0 2 sse nig Kö rasse 1 st N ra nuf st rit z 4 3 rd Wiga 18 Carolaplatz sb Köbisplatz se 22 21 20 Sachsenplatz Elb e stras er e s r tra aufe ts Ostr vrien e D ss ei e 5 se Ost W ss ert Alb ücke br zs er it nn Ko ustu ing Aug ei ert Carolsbrüc ch rück e ACCOMMODATIONS Art'otel 5 Hilton Dresden 13 Hotel Bülow Residenz 1 Hotel Martha Hospiz 2 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe 18 Westin Bellevue 3 tra raalle Elbe Ter rass enu fer Fr. and Weimar ra ATTRACTIONS Albertinum 17 Frauenkirche 16 Grünes Gewolbe 10 Katholische Hofkirche 11 Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst 18 Standseilbahn 20 Zwinger 7 Church Information Railway Hauptbahnhof Dresden au e ch ss tti e Lu rass nga e st d Lin B 211 Munich lüh e Wiener Platz Le nn e am Main rst Frankfurt i str iese erw Bürgkstrasse Par sse as se GERMANY Dresden i . Leipzig.-Külz sse ausstra h n e Wais se er rfs Stü rg nd o er S et er s St Prag Chapter 14: Dresden.P Zin ze Berlin tras bu Hamburg Gün be lal lee Sternplatz ALTSTADT sse Lingnerplatz Blüherpark Bl herpark Grosser Garten tzst e DINING Ayers Rock 14 Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen 22 Café Schinkelwache 8 Café zur Frauenkirche 15 Fischgalerie 4 Freiberger Schankhaus 19 Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) 6 Luisenhof 21 Rossini 12 Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais 9 ke Ros tr en s sse rS tra rass ae onst as se Webergasse Pirnaischer Platz G r un e Amm r n st nstra e Sac hsa Zw Am Zwinger Pond i 11 12 13 14 Theater6 platz Rathenauplatz Dürerstrasse Pilln itzer llee ass e Stra sse rass e .-HeckertPlatz Sc h we ras se Marie Freib erge r Str asse Postplatz 9 Wilsd ru Schloß E hst hrlic rasse 10 15 17 16 18 19 ffer S trasse strass rine r St 7 8 e An ne ss St ra tra Georgplatz sse -Ring Dr.M de rg 0 0.

dvbag. to 6 p.m. and 3:30 p. offers a daily 90-minute Super Dresden Tour (Grosse Stadtrundfahrt). If you want to stay here. both are open Monday through Friday from 7 a. DVB (% 0351/8571011.m. offers a one-hour Historical City Tour (Historischer Stadtrundgang)..50€ ($7) for children. .m. Validate your ticket (by stamping the ticket in a machine) upon entering the bus or tram. see Chapter 22. costs 5.50€ ($5. Staying in Dresden Since reunification and the amazing increase in tourism.stadtrundfahrt. Purchase your tickets and a transportation map from the vending machines (marked “Fahrkarten”) outside the train stations.. and 5 p. tours from Thursday through Sunday.m. 1 p. www. Dresden’s hotel prices have soared.m. Buy your tickets at the kiosk on the quay. For a description of the beautiful new Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe. 3 p.50). located a bit out of the center of the Altstadt. a guided (audio headsets for English translations) bus tour that leaves from Schlossplatz. The paddle-wheel steamers depart from the Terrassenufer quay below the Brühlsche Terrasse (embankment) along the south bank of the river and travel upstream to Loschwitz and back again. good for two adults and up to four children in one zone. to 3 p. including the lovely Loschwitz neighborhood. You can hop on or off the bus at any of 22 points along the way.m. or at DVB service centers inside the Hauptbahnhof or at Art’otel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt The six floors of this dramatic postmodern hotel. A one-day Tageskarte (day pass) costs 4.m.m. You find a small gym and sauna on the premises.212 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The city is divided into fare zones. The price is 18€ ($22) for adults. An English-speaking guide accompanies the 1 and 3 p. and so has the demand for rooms. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a. Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt (% 0351/866-090) offers daily 90-minute boat trips along the Elbe from May into October at 11 a. Buses leave every half-hour from 10 a.. adjacent to the Augustusbrücke (Augustus Bridge) and covers both sides of the Elbe. a walk through the city’s historic center. book your room ahead of time. unless you’re visiting the outskirts of Dresden. free for children 14 and younger. are the “artiest” of any hotel in Dresden.m.70€ ($2) for a one-hour ride anywhere in Zone 1.m. www. Buy your tickets at a tourist information center. The 174 goodsized bedrooms are stylish and comfortably chic without being pretentious. and costs 10€ ($13). you only need a one-zone ticket. The cost is 11€ ($14) for adults.. A Familientageskarte (family day ticket). A single ticket for the bus or tram costs 1. This tour departs from Postplatz daily at 11 a. to 7 p. Seeing Dresden by guided tour Stadtrundfahrt Dresden (% 0351/899-5650.m.50€ ($7). Double rooms have bathrooms with stainless-steel sinks and a shower.

V. Rates include buffet breakfast. www. AE. on the north bank of the Elbe River. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). 211. are on the small side. DC. An der Frauenkirche 5. AE. The staff is unusually friendly and helpful. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz.artotel. Bathrooms. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). 01067 Dresden. % 800-445-8667 in the U. Westin Bellevue $$$$ Neustadt The 339-room Westin Bellevue is located near the most attractive part of the Elbe River. Baby-sitting can be arranged.Chapter 14: Dresden. The hotel’s elegant. Rates: 250€ ($312) Nieritzstrasse 11. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. MC. DC. Tram: 4 or 9 to Ostra-Allee 33. and sauna on the premises. Rates: 140€–250€ ($175–$312) double. 211. Fax: 0351/864-2725. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. this simple but comfortable four-story hotel is a 15-minute walk from the heart of Dresden’s Altstadt.S. AE. and Canada. See map p. 211. The 50 rooms have a simple. Hotel Bülow Residenz $$$$ Neustadt One of the finest restorations in Neustadt. Fax: 0351/492-2777. MC. 01097 Dresden. % 0351/81760. DC. Rähnitzgasse 19. See map p. . V. Each of the 30 spacious rooms is laid out differently and furnished with modern designer and reproduction Biedermeier pieces. Hilton Dresden $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This 333-room hotel across from the Frauenkirche is one of the best (and largest) in eastern Germany. www. You find a pool. % 0351/ MC. Fax: 0351/817-6222. 01097 Dresden. AE. expensive. Leipzig. Rooms are midsize and somewhat short on style but well-maintained. and many of the rooms have lovely river and Altstadt views. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. See map p. Fax: 0351/800-3100. 01067 Dresden. Hotel Martha Hospiz $$ Neustadt Managed by the Association of Christian Hoteliers (VCH). The large marble-tiled bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Michelin-starred Caroussel Restaurant serves fresh French cuisine with a Mediterranean influence (main courses 25€–35€/ $ 31–$ 44). each with a shower. modern décor and are well-maintained.dresden. V.hilton. this luxury boutique hotel is housed in a building that dates from 1730. or 0351/86420. http://marthahospiz. MC. % 0351/80030. Rates: 130€ ($162) double. and Weimar 213 See map p. fitness club. Rates: 160€–215€ ($200–$269) double. 211. V. Rates include buffet breakfast.

and salads. For a sample of the city’s culinary offerings. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). 211. See map p.m. Dining in Dresden Dresden is bursting with new restaurants of every kind. riverside park stretches behind the hotel. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). DC. and Canada. Grosse Meissner Strasse 15. % 800-937-8461 in the U. well-appointed.214 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The rooms are large. www.–3 a. On Saturday and Sunday afternoons. 211. V. See map p. the narrow lane that runs north from the Frauenkirche to the river.m. You find an on-site pool and health club. sautéed fish with parsley and onions. DC. Fax: 0351/805-1749. MC. DC. AE. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. Rates: 250€–350€ ($312–$437) double. and comfortable.westin. grilled salmon. ostrich steak. AE. grilled lamb cutlets. Children younger than 18 stay for free in their parents’ room. The bathrooms have shower units or shower-tub combinations. % 0351/811-990. Tram 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Tram: 11 to Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen. the bar area becomes a crowded singles scene. As the night wears on.–1 a. you can eat and drink to the sounds of an oom-pahpah band. Menu items include kangaroo rump steak. Neustadt (5km/3 miles northeast of city center). . MC. and another 800 can be accommodated within the sprawling beer garden (open Apr–Oct)€–17€ ($11–$21). % 0351/490-1188. and roasts. Main courses: 8. grassy. V. Am Brauhaus 8B. Tram: 9 from the Hauptbahnhof stops in front of the hotel at Neustädter Markt.m.m. The menu features heaping plates of traditional favorites such as roast pork shank. 211. 01097 Dresden. sausages. In 1995. Waldschlösschen beer is brewed on the premises. Open: Daily 11 a. soups. MC. Ayers Rock $ –$$ Altstadt AUSTRALIAN This likable Australian restaurant with outdoor tables is famous for its cocktails but also serves German and Aussie beer on tap. if not spacious. AE. or 0351/805-1733. Café Schinkelwache $ –$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL This sandstone structure in the center of Theaterplatz was built in 1832 by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel to house soldiers and guards. Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen $ –$$ Neustadt GERMAN Some 250 diners can fit into the dining rooms in this newly built replica of an old-fashioned beer hall. Münzgasse 8. Open: Daily 10 a. See map p. V. wander down Münzgasse. A green. you can walk across the river to the Altstadt in ten minutes.

m. and white fish served with tomato-flavored spaghettini. For dessert try the homemade Quarkkeutchen. AE. and a blueblack color scheme. are good appetizers. The menu typically has dishes such as grilled lamb cutlet with asparagus and sauce béarnaise. served with black bread. % 0351/490-3909. Sophienstrasse am Theaterplatz. 14. a baked dumpling filled with cheese and raisins. to midnight. located directly across from the Frauenkirche. scampi. 2.25). 4. Open: Daily 9 a. See map p.Chapter 14: Dresden.m. The menu changes every week. and Weimar 215 the building was rebuilt and reconfigured into an intimate cafe with outdoor tables on the terrace (you find a tourist information center around the other side). a bowl of Linseneintopf (lentil stew). Fischgalerie $$ –$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD The interior of Dresden’s best fish restaurant is a sophisticated affair with an open-view kitchen. You can order a salad with turkey strips. MC. % 0351/498-9836. minimalist design. You can also sit and enjoy wine. V. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse.50€–12€ ($8–$15). and Worcestershire sauce. is a good place to perch for a casual meal or dessert and coffee. or chicken breast fricassee with mustard. with its outside terrace overlooking the newly restored Frauenkirche. and Saxon sauerbraten (marinated roast beef).m. % 0351/490-3506. 8. Reservations recommended. Fresh oysters and marinated herring. V. AE. An der Frauenkirche 5.–2 a. pastas such as rigatoni with chicken breast. AE. Main courses: 6. or coffee. or bouillabaisse with North Sea fish. cheese. Maxstrasse 2. Tram: 1.. is a good place to sit outside and eat or have a drink.m. Tues–Sat 6–11 p. 7.50–$6. Accompany your meal with a glass of Freiberger Preminium Pils. beer.m. See map p. Main courses: 9€–18€ ($11–$23). 211. 12. Café zur Frauenkirche $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This street-side corner cafe. MC. Freiberger Schankhaus $$ Altstadt SAXON/GERMAN This place. 11. Fresh sushi is available on Wednesday and Friday nights. and veal stew. 211. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. . Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). and pork goulash with cabbage and dumplings. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Pastries: 2€–5€ ($2. dramatic lighting. Menu selections include pastries. The menu offers simple but delicious Saxon staples such as a Saxon potato fritter with cheese and strips of smoked salmon. or 17. Main courses: 14€–24€ ($17–$30). Fresh seafood dishes may include salmon with champagne sauce. soups. Leipzig. meal-size salads. 211. MC. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 3 p. See map p. V. crepes with mushrooms and chicken. Open: Daily 10 a.

is a good place for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). Main courses: 6. 211. V. Neumarkt 8 (in the Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe). one floor above the lobby of the Dresden Hilton. DC. Rossini $$$ Altstadt ITALIAN Rossini offers fine Italian cuisine in a stylish.m.m. AE. MC. 211. or you may want to try the famous house specialty. The restaurant has a menu in English to help you make up your mind. For dessert try the tiramisu with bananas or sorbet with champagne and fruit.–1 a. Main courses: 19€–29€ ($24–$36). AE. Taschenberg 3. 211. dress-up. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). MC. erected on the site of a cluster of cottages (“the Italian Village”). Open: Daily 11 a.m. Reservations recommended. as does the formal. V. veal in thyme sauce with tomato fettuccine. “August’s Hunting Trophy”: roasted medallions of venison. The Bierkeller (beer hall) with a painted ceiling serves traditional dishes such as Sauerbraten (pot. See map p. Bellotto. Menu items may include homemade ravioli with arugula and cheese. to midnight. MC. See map p. Flickering candles set beneath vaulted ceilings provide suitable atmosphere. Open: Daily 10 a. You can order dishes such as grilled rabbit with thyme or trout fried in butter. called Dirndls. % 0351/864-2855. wild boar. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25).m. DC. V. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. an upscale Italian eatery on the top floor with an outdoor balcony overlooking Theaterplatz. and juniper sauce. Each of the four restaurants has a different theme. . The Café.m. AE. An der Frauenkirche 5 (in the Dresden Hilton). % 0351/500-4347. V. AE. 211. Pastries: 4–6. % 0351/497-260. Theaterplatz. % 0351/498-160.50€ ($5–$8). and so do the waitresses in their traditional German dresses. once housed Italian workers.m. MC. completely smokefree setting. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. a graceful-looking room with windows that overlook the river. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. or lamb with applewine sauce and polenta. red-walled Weinzimmer (wine room).216 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. Open: Daily 11 a.50€–15€ ($8–$18). serves dishes such as risotto with artichokes and radicchio and veal scaloppini. Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais $$ Altstadt GERMAN The food in this famous cellar restaurant is a modern approximation of a medieval feast. Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) $$ Altstadt ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL This quartet of restaurants in a neoclassical building. Open: Daily 6–11:30 p. See map p.or oven-roasted marinated beef). Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. served with asparagus and roast potatoes. DC.–11 p.

a residential area called Weisser Hirsch. de.–2 p. The funicular runs from 6 a. Across the street from the station is Luisenhof.” earlier in this chapter. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. and the Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (all described in this section). to midnight (brunch 10 a. The Dresden Card. for 10€ ($13) adults. described under “Finding Information. Exploring Dresden You find all of Dresden’s major attractions in the relatively compact Altstadt. and costs 3€ ($3. The collection concentrates on German art. is another money-saving option that includes all public transportation. a funicular that began operation in 1895. take one of Dresden’s old funiculars (mountain railways) up to the top of a hill in the suburb of Loschwitz and dine in a pleasant restaurant overlooking the city. easy.Chapter 14: Dresden.and 20th-century art.m. A money-saving Tageskarte (day ticket) gets you into all four museums in the Zwinger complex.). early 19th-century) period.m. www. a restaurant with an outdoor terrace offering wonderful panoramic views of the Elbe River and Dresden in the distance. Bergbahnstrasse 8 (% 0351/214-9960). you’ll see the Standseilbahn. take Tram 8 to Schillerplatz and walk across the famous Blaue Wunder bridge. The restaurant accepts MasterCard and Visa.m. The Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery). The Neustadt quarter on the north bank of the Elbe is another area you may want to visit. Sunday from 10 a.skd-dresden. the Neues Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault).m. 4€ ($5) children and seniors. and Weimar 217 Dinner with a view For a fun. and memorable dining experience.75) round-trip. to 1 a. but relax with a glass of beer or wine and enjoy the view of Dresden’s spires.m. Albertinum Altstadt Between 1884 and 1887. to 9 p. and Sauerbraten with cabbage and dumplings. the Neustadt quarter has Germany’s largest concentration of houses from the Gründerzeit (Biedermeier. starting with moody works by Caspar David . The German/Saxon menu features traditional dishes such as potato soup with sausages. On the other side. taking up two floors.m. is a rich collection of 19th. For more information on all of Dresden’s major museums. The service can be slow. at Trachtenbergerstrasse 40. Main courses go for 10€ to 17€ ($12–$22).m. the historic center. Although you won’t find the museum attractions of the Altstadt here. First. Take the funicular to the top. visit the Web site of the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden (State Art Collections).. the Saxon King Albert converted this former royal arsenal into a home for his vast collection of art and precious jewelry. Leipzig.

Brühl Terrace. and going up to the brilliant works of Dresden-born Otto Dix (1891–1969). Open: Daily. but it was moved to this new location in September 2004. or 8 to Rathenau Platz. the Frauenkirche on the southeast side of Neumarkt (New Market Square) was the most important Protestant church in Germany and had one of the most famous domes in Europe. see the Web site. Even better. 7. Sunday concerts (8€/$ 10). and all your belongings must be checked before entering). 211.218 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Friedrich. Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) Altstadt The fabulous assortment of treasures displayed in the Residenzschloss formerly was housed in the Albertinum. ivory carvings. See map p. Note: This great collection closed in January 2006 for major redesign work. Admission: Free. A painstaking restoration project began in 1993 and was finally completed in 2006. the Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Historic Green Vault) opened. intricately designed mirrors. for performance information. Tram: 3. In September 2006. and priceless porcelain. the great German Romantic artist. enjoy one of the 3 p. was built by the son of a British bomber pilot who took part in the original bombing raid. step inside the brilliant white interior to admire the immaculate restoration work. and as of press time there was no scheduled date for its reopening. the East German government let the charred ruin remain as a memorial. The Historic . a brilliant painter who ran afoul of the Nazis. % 0351/ 18th-century objects. See map p. to noon and 1–6 p. except during Sunday concerts.m.m. featuring a larger selection of the collection (no tours allowed. this dazzling selection of highlights will more than satisfy your curiosity. including the Frauenkirche. Neumarkt. Unless you’re an objet d’art nut. Allow yourself at least an hour to browse this treasure-trove (be prepared for crowds). The Neues Grünes Gewölbe (New Green Vault) features ten rooms of selected masterworks from the huge collection of 16th. The 1945 Allied bombing of Dresden destroyed 80 percent of the city. an exact replica of the 18th-century original. But there’s more. The new golden cross atop the dome. % 0351/6560-670. generally 10 a. including rococo chests. The sculpture collection has been moved to the Zwinger (see later in this section). Once again this baroque church dominates the historic center of Dresden. Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) Altstadt Built between 1726 and 1743. gold jewelry. and take advantage of the free audio guide. if you want it. 211. Allot at least an hour to see the highlights. each requiring a separate admission. bronze statuettes. Two collections are open for viewing.. After the war. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. The reopening of the church was an event of major symbolic importance.m. Currently closed. but the paintings in the New Masters Gallery unfortunately won’t be on view until the Albertinum reopens.

and Weimar 219 Green Vault can only be visited with a prebooked timed-entry ticket.).. What you see are everyday objects used by the common folk — a far cry from the gem-encrusted treasures in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault. % 0351/4914-2000. He wanted the Zwinger to be his Versailles and a place where he could show off his incredible art collections.–6 p.m.m. 211. and Christmas decorations from the nearby Erzgebirge region. 211. are notable buildings that rely on the exuberant sculptures of the Bavarian artist Balthasar Permoser . also known as the Cathedral of St. Historic Green Vault 12€ ($14). Trinitas.50) children and students. Admission: 3€ ($3. You need about 15 minutes to look around. Open: Daily 10 a. designed a series of galleries and domed pavilions to enclose a large rectangular courtyard with formal gardens. is the largest church in Saxony.Chapter 14: Dresden.. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Schlossplatz. built this magnificent baroque palace in 1719.m.50) seniors and children. % 0351/495-1133. Sophienstrasse. (Historic Green Vault until 7 p. pottery. Built by the son of Augustus the Strong.m. Frederick Augustus II (ruled 1733–1763). M. See map p. 8. Open: Mon–Fri 9 a. Inside.50€ ($4. 2€ ($2. you can see the crypt with the tombs of 49 kings and princes of Saxony. See map p.m.skddresden. 3. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Zwinger Altstadt Augustus the Strong. described earlier). Sun noon to 4 p. tableware. Also shown are toys. and promenades. hand-woven baskets. On display are pieces of painted furniture. 211.50) adults.m. Admission: New Green Vault 6€ ($7.m. and folk costumes. D.75) adults.–6 p.m. See map % 0351/803-0817. available in advance by calling % 0351/4911-9285 or online at www.) bell tower decorated with statues of saints and apostles. Pöppelmann (1662–1736). Kopckestrasse 1. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Leipzig.m. Sat 10 a. Residenzschloss. Katholische Hofkirche (Catholic Court Church) Altstadt The restored Hofkirche. or 51 to Carolaplatz. The semicircular Wallpavillon at the west end and the adjacent Nymphenbad (Bath of Nymphs). Tram: 3. 5. elector of Saxony and king of Poland.–4:30 p. The architect. with its graceful fountains and mythological figures. Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts) Neustadt The oldest Renaissance building in Dresden. the 16th-century Jägerhof (Hunters Court) houses this fine collection of regional folk art. Jägerhof. 7. fountains. Admission: Free.–4 p.m. carvings. the church was constructed in a lavish Italian baroque style with a curving facade and 86m (282-ft.

Admission is 3€ ($ 3. Give yourself about 15 minutes to wander through. Admission is 5€ ($ 6. The collection includes examples from over five millennia.75) for adults. See map p. or 8 to Postplatz. % 0351/491-4622. Dürer. you find a series of detailed townscapes of Dresden painted by Canaletto in the mid 18th century. it costs 10€ ($ 13) for adults. you find the Mathematische-Physikalischer Salon (Salon of Mathematics and Physics). and Meissen porcelain from the 18th and 19th centuries. the Green Vault. you can spend 15 minutes or an hour. with its entrance in the Glockenspiel Pavillon (Carillon Pavillion).25) children and seniors. 2€ ($ 2. a separate section of the Semper Gallery.50€ ($ 4.m. — but charge separate admission prices.75) for adults. Dutch.m. Depending on your interest.50) for children and seniors. The entrance is directly across from the entrance to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. Again. Admission is 5€ ($ 6. and Rembrandt. displays Japanese. 3. Allow at least two hours for unhurried browsing. 211. In galleries two through four. On the west side of the Zwinger.220 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany (1651–1732). Rubens. The “giant animal room” on the second floor has a collection of 18th-century Meissen animals. one of the best in the world.50) adults. On the northeast side is the Semper Gallery. this entire complex of buildings contains a stunning collection of museums. Vermeer. . entrance in the courtyard). Chinese. Gottfried Semper added the pavilion in 1846. Today. They all are open the same hours — Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. starting with the ancient cultures of the Mediterranean region through all epochs of European sculpture to the present. 20€ ($ 25) for a family. Tram: 2.25) adults. 4. Canaletto’s views of Dresden are so true to life that they were used as reference works during the post-WWII reconstruction of the city.25) adults. and German paintings by Van Dyck.m. Admission is 6€ ($ 7. This gallery.50€ ($ 3) for children and seniors. you can see a small but superlative collection of armor and weapons from the 15th to 18th centuries.50) children and seniors. has as its showpiece Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. you can see everything in under half an hour. The most important museum is the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) in the Semper Gallery (entrance at Theaterplatz 1). with all manner of clocks and scientific instruments of the 16th to 19th centuries.50) for children and seniors. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. The collection also includes Flemish. You save money with a Tageskarte (Day Ticket). 5€ ($ 6. 2. a Renaissancestyle two-story pavilion linked by one-story galleries. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection). Theaterplatz 1. to 6 p.m. and the Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts. 2€ ($ 2. depending on your interest level. Selections from the Skulpturen-Sammlung (Sculpture Collection) formerly housed in the Albertinum are now on view in the Zwinger in the ground floor of the Französischer Pavillon (French Pavilion. good for all Zwinger museums.–6 p. In the Rüstkammer (Armory). to the left of the Wallpavillon. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.

A Trödelmarkt (flea market) is open Saturdays from 9 a.m. Leipzig. More-exclusive shops reside in Neustadt on the north side of the river on Königstrasse and Hauptstrasse. In Neustadt. accessible via Hauptstrasse 17–19 (Tram: 9).Chapter 14: Dresden. you find many high-quality antiques dealers lining both sides of a lane called Am Goldenen Reiter. Kleine Brüdergasse 5 (% 0351/862-1230. The best shops Weihnachtsland am Zwinger. Tram: 4 or 8). where you find department stores Wilsdruffer Strasse.m. and Weimar 221 The Zwinger Wallpavillon Mathematische– Physikalischer Salon Nymphenbad Julian–Grimau–Allee Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Picture Gallery) Theaterplatz Rüstkamner (Armory) Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection) Glockenspielpavillon Kronentor Shopping in Dresden Dresden’s main shopping streets are Prager Strasse. to 3 p. and Altmarkt. is the best-stocked and most interesting gift Zwinger- graben . in the Altstadt. beneath the Albertbrücke (bridge) (Tram: 1 or 4).

and Shakespeare. You can also take a free tour of the studios and factory. discos. Tram 1. Bus: 72 or 76). Tickets are 10€ to 25€ ($13–$31). The opera and ballet season lasts from September to mid-July. www. www. . Its hand-painted objects are the most charming and interesting in Dresden. Several operas by Richard Wagner and Richard Strauss had their premieres in this house. so many and varied nightlife options always are available. can be a highlight of your trip. filigree lace from Plauen. 5km (3 miles) southeast of the center at Donaustrasse 72 (% 0351/4707340. Ticket prices range from 8€ to 78€ ($10–$97).semperoper. Tickets cost 11€ to 40€ ($14–$50). or 7).dresdnerphilharmonie. Discovering nightlife in Dresden Dresden is the cultural center of Saxony. Theaterplatz 2 (% 0351/4911705. which began in 1434. Postplatz (% 0351/491-350. which was built in the mid 19th century and twice rebuilt. and Easter ornaments from the nearby Erzgebirge region. If you’re an opera buff. The theater is closed during August. New Year’s. The famous Christmas market Dresden’s Weihnachtsmarkt (also called the Striezelmarkt) is the oldest Christmas market in Germany. Advent stars from Hermhut. Anything you buy can be shipped. The oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Dresden is Wehsener Porzellan. dance. or just a good place to relax with a glass of wine or a beer. the Sächsisches Oper (Saxon Opera). you can find classical concerts. rock shows. 4. 2. This December event. and opera are available from the tourist information centers on Prager Strasse and Theaterplatz. where actors perform dramas by Goethe. indigo-printed cloth and pottery from Lusatia. selling handmade Christmas. Tickets for classical concerts. Tram: 13. Schiller. seeing a performance by the resident company. Tram: 4 or 8). is one of the world’s great opera houses. and blown-glass tree decorations from Lauscha. Look for woodcarvings from the Erzgebirge Depending on your tastes. The main stage for classical theater in the city is the Schauspielhaus. takes place in the Altmarkt and features handmade regional crafts and gift items and homemade Summer concerts take place in the courtyards of the Zwinger. Opera and classical concerts The Semperoper (Semper Opera House). The Dresden Philharmonic performs at the Kulturpalast. gingerbread from Pulsnitz. in the Altmarkt (% 0351/48660. Tram: 3 or 5).222 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany shop in Dresden.

to 2 a. I recommend that you take a boat trip along the Elbe River. 8. The round-trip cost is 18€ ($22) per person. % 0351/ 866-090) runs several trips on historic paddle-wheelers and modern boats through a scenic region known as Sächsisches Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland).m.m.m. and sheer sandstone cliffs.saechsische-dampfschiffahrt. is a hip dive with sand-covered floors. The upstairs cafe at Planwirtschaft. A dance club with room for everyone is DownTown and Groove Station. or 11). Leipzig. where you see castle-crowned hilltops. low-key bar without intrusive music. is open from 9 a. Tram: 3. a small. online at www. Tram: 7 or 8). deep gorges. 8.m.m. to 2 a. to 2 a. is open daily from 7 p. Monday is gay and lesbian night. giant rocks. located at the confluence of the Weisse Elster and Pleisse rivers.. Visiting Leipzig is worth the trip to see a proud East German city rediscovering and redefining itself after years of Communist rule.m. Leipzig has long been a major cultural and commercial force in Saxony. 7.000 people. Cover is 4€ ($5). Tram: 7 or 8). Elbe cruises leave from the dock below Brühl Terrace. Leipzig: City of Heroes Historic Leipzig. 5.m. to 1 a.Chapter 14: Dresden.m. Raskolnikoff.m. (See the “Leipzig” map in this chapter. Louisenstrasse 10 (% 0351/801-1739. Böhmische Strasse 34 (% 0351/804-5706. The trips take from 3 to 41⁄2 hours. Food and drink are for sale onboard. Other routes travel to Meissen and through Bohemia. open daily from 5 p.m. Leipzig is only a little smaller than Dresden. is a trendy drinking place set in a cellar and popular with students and artists. until the last person leaves. and home to a famous university .) With a population of about 450. The club is open daily from 9 p.m. The Sächsische Dampfschiffahrtsgesellschaft (Saxon Excursion Boat Company. is called a Heldenstadt. Alaunstrasse 100 (% 0351/801-3957. The place is open Monday to Friday from 11 a. daily excursions depart for the Saxon Switzerland route. Tram: 7 or 8). From May into October. Bars and clubs Café Hieronymous. or 11). Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. and Weimar 223 Sailing through Saxon Switzerland If you have the the downstairs bar stays open until 3 a. to 3 a.m. Die 100. in English. Louisenstrasse 20 (% 0351/8013187.” for its role in toppling the former Communist government of East Germany. Although it doesn’t look like much. Katherinenstrasse 11–13 (% 0351/802-8801. You can check out all the Elbe excursions. or “city of heroes. on weekends. Tram: 7. and on Sunday you find dinner and dancing. a center of publishing. the esplanade that runs along the south bank of the river..

bahn. and a good road network. Leipzig was heavily bombed by British and American forces in 1943. a new commercial flash point for cafes. B95. B6. A number of federal highways (B2. Leipzig-Halle International Airport (% 0341/224-1155. But people in Leipzig are much more interested in looking forward than looking back. trade fairs have played an important role in the city’s life. By train The Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station). and its skyscrapers and nightlife give the city a cosmopolitan flair that’s unique for this region. Willy-Brandt-Platz. The recently restored Hauptbahnhof is one of the most happening places in Leipzig.000 students. and to other European destinations. For information and train schedules. Trains arrive daily from Berlin (about 21⁄2 hours). and Frankfurt (5 hours). For centuries. trip time is 14 minutes. B181. www. including the famed Gewandhaus Orchestra. or you may want to spend the night in this lively Saxon metropolis. The 25. 111km (68 miles) to the northwest. The fare is 8€ ($10). Getting there Leipzig has all the transportation options of a major city: an airport. You still find some narrow streets and houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. By plane Several airlines link Leipzig to major German cities. and much of the city is rebuilt or being rebuilt. . You can easily visit Leipzig as a daytrip from Dresden. to midnight. shops. and Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig in 1813.m. Dresden (about 11⁄2–2 hours). The Flughafen (Airport) Express train runs between the airport and the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station) every 30 minutes from 4:30 a. is the largest on the 30-minute taxi ride to the city center costs about 30€ ($37). such as Munich and Frankfurt. B87. Mozart and Mendelssohn performed here.leipzig-airport. and some Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings and arcades from the early 20th century. a train station. Johann Sebastian Bach is closely associated with lies 11km (7 miles) northwest of the city center. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861 or visit www. B184) pass by or skirt Leipzig. By car Leipzig is connected to the A9 (Berlin–Munich) and the A14 (Halle– Dresden) Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany with some 20. You can easily get there from anywhere in Germany. Leipzig also is a city with many great musical traditions. and restaurants.

Alte Waage Marktplatz ssg ässch. and Weimar 225 Leipzig t er-S ach hum t-Sc Kur 1 0 0 100 meters 0. Gerberst r.1 mile N Parthenstrasse Uferstrasse strasse Nordstrasse Pfaffendorfer strasse Information Railway i r. Katharinenstrasse Schwanenteich markt Augustusplatz Univers 14 Neu- Universität Leipzig Grimmai scher Steinweg Georg iring Burgplatz atz Schil lerstr asse pl Ro Go ss ldsc Str ass hm e t r. Alte Börse Markt 7 Naschmarkt Altes 15 Rathaus Gr as im maische S om 8 Th sse tr asse ga 11 12 13 9 KönigsMädler10 haus passag Klosterg. tmbold Hu Hauptbahnhof 2 Tröndlinring RichardWagnerPlatz Richard-Wagner-Strasse Brühl Sachsenplatz 3 4 Ric erd ele rrin g ha rd- Gr.Ri Rossplatz ng Hamburg Berlin er Leipzig GERMANY am Main Dimitroffstrasse nstrasse ind nW ühle . z-Str h n it Tauc er- Gr Nü ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Fürstenhof 2 Leipzig Marriott Hotel 4 The Westin Leipzig 1 DINING Apels Garten 6 Auerbachs Keller 12 Paulaner Palais 7 Di ttr ich rin g Mart i n . ün ew al d s rnb erg .Chapter 14: Dresden. Ritterstr asse 5 asse Hain str. m str Frankfurt Bee t h o v e Munich ATTRACTIONS Bach-Museum 8 Grasssi Museum 16 Museum der Bildenden Künste 3 Museum für Kunsthandwerk 14 Museum für Völkerkunde 11 Museum in der Runden Ecke 5 MusikinstrumentenMuseum 10 Nikolaikirche 15 Thomaskirche 9 Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig 13 . Leipzig.L u t h Neues Opernhaus Petersstrasse Burgstrass Sch Johannisplatz uls tra e sse Neues Gewandhaus 16 idts tras se . Fleischer g ass Reichsstrasse Nikolaistrasse WillyBrandtPlatz Wa gn erStr ass e i Brü hl Go e Goet hestr Barfu 6 e itätsstr.

leipzig.m. to 2 p. 225. helpful service here is a real recommendation. .m. The lobby will be reconfigured and all the rooms freshened up in 2007 (the hotel’s tenth anniversary). Tröndlinring 8. V. You can purchase tickets from automated machines at the stops. is a major plus.m. and the bathrooms all have tub/shower combinations. You can also book a hotel room here and purchase tickets for concerts and sightseeing open Monday through Friday from 9 a. See map p. Rooms are comfortable and good-sized (with beds that beat the Westin’s for comfort). Richard-WagnerStrasse 1 (% 0341/710-4260. DC.. Saturday 9 a. Getting around Leipzig If you arrive by train for a daytrip. and bus network. The Leipzig Marriott is a good. Leipzig Marriott Hotel $ –$$$ City Center Fans of Marriott hotels won’t find any surprises in this one. the location.m. Leipzig is the site of huge trade fairs that bring in tens of thousands of visitors. the public transit authority.m. reliable choice for leisure or business travelers (it tends to attract more business travelers because of the array of amenities and executive-level services it offers). www. Tram: 15. 04105 Leipzig. If you travel to Leipzig during those periods. this hotel has 92 rooms redecorated to reflect the original neoclassical styling. % 800-426-3135 in the U. LVB (% 0172/1000000.m.m. Hotel Fürstenhof $$$$ City Center Housed in a historic 18th-century building.. or 0341/1400. SBahn (surface trains). Rates: 265€– 300€ ($331–$375) double. www. and the breakfast buffet is great. Staying in Leipzig Twice a year. MC. within easy walking distance of the train station and just across from the new museum of fine arts. The tourist office offers a 90-minute city-sightseeing tour daily at 11 a. you can easily walk from the train station to all the attractions in the Altstadt (Old Town).lvb. Fax: 0341/140-3700. booking your room in advance is essential. The rejuvenated bathrooms are nicely done and have a combination tub and shower. to 4 p. An Einzelfahrkarte (single ticket) in “Zone Leipzig” costs 1.60€ ($2).226 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding information and taking a tour Pick up a city map at the tourist information office. usually the first week in September and the second week in March. An on-site health club has a pool and a sauna. runs the city’s tram.arabellasheraton. for 12€ ($15).com. The commentary is in German only. but that’s the point. The friendly.S. Fares are based on zones. and Sunday 9 a. www. to 6 p.

Markranstäder Str. Marschner-C tze lsru M it z na r Stö aue est aus str. k zs or str eri 10 oß nd Ring ed ine i Gr Wi r. 1 n ie ar .Bar Merseburger aue rbrü Bf. ma Ost Th. Forstweg e LindenG. G tz a ner A n Nord z itz z .-Segerr. b M t s i a ö l . resl eiß ath olm ötte . p r Paunsdorf-Center f Volksgarten Wilh.-Hoffmann-/ Ad nn er-/ nnße se er r A atze bo y a r s l e e La per u e i . e le ue K. Barnecker Str. ns G. lle Str erg Ri Ein Saturnstr. Diakonissenhaus s . . . Hornbach Baumarkt e el Freiligrathstr.nze Curschmannstr. . 12 1 Südplatz Stieglitzstr. r c fm Trams rf ka zm /G m tz M st ar er/R s K o e a a a e z . Kreuz hw Str Völkerschlachtdenkmal pl. h t Ku str. Böhlitz-Ehrenberg Heisenbergstr. V l l l k k k 16 rk ut M a a Borna To S1 M 18 Kn 227 Leipzig S-Bahn .Jo pl r. Hamburger Schönefeld.-Lampel-Str. str. u ta t Gohlis. Volbedingstr. S3 Rödelstr. Körnerstr. Taucha s 12 n 14 Taucha ck 9 r e e a d Gohlislle m Beyerleinstr. t Meusdorf Parkstr. Stu höna to Connewitz. bahnhof m ist erts ieb L. Hermelinstr. Meu Str. P -Platz S-B S-B Str. E s r Hauptl v Str. Platz S-B Hohe Str. . Ar t Roseggerstr.-Schwarz-/L. Wahren Heiterblick. Mockauer/Volbedingstr. O. Chauseehaus Str. Paunsdorf Borsdorf S-Bf.-NA. Landsberger Str. m e e n S Strbf. Paunsdorf-Nord Paunsdorf-Nord Südstr. ar eg Eutritzsch.-Schmidt-Str. Probstheida Triftweg S-Bf. tr. Wiebelstr. Hohentichelnstr. e r r r r n n Str. Elster-Passage S1 S Johannisallee Holbeinstr.-Schumann-/ Möchern Hist. Kirche a el di elw hen er h ud tr. u i Lößnig H he 8 w S tr. Wittenberger Str.-Eisner Str.-H Str. vd ew isbahnhof h rk Lin A EdlichPlo Ki Am Sc Pa Grü Saa nn tsw nit str str. and Weimar Wiederitzsch-Mitte Neue Messe Messegelände 16 GeorgDachauer Str. Paunsdorf.-Liebknecht-/ Deutsche Bücherei 2 . Coppistr. K. er / M f. r a t a schlößchen a S m st l 8 15 Zoo 7 8 18 au rb Am Vorwerk -P -St tr. ns r Moritz-Hof 7 tte r ze tr. Paunsdorfer Allee/ Fr. Mockau.. Lortzinge M G. Virchow-/ Mosenthinstr. B W R K St L -B Bayrischer S . ritz rü ilti Wilh. G ee Bf. Leipzig. G t . Pfeffingerstr.Waldplatz Sportforum Leibnizstr.-Lehmann-Str. T. s u z ö Permoserstr. Marienbrunn c Prager/Russenstr. 4 3 18 dt rm Herwegh-Str.-Hupfeld-Str. Ka Al zn lagw . Ph. Zwickauer Str. O kt . a i e Kir ön al nau rlän Lindenau de ng To Wurzen Jupiterstr.14 K. Karolusstr. . Thomaskirche . R . ke z . t n i t i b Landsberger/M. en ue Ostplatz St ö tte r S r. H.-Lehmann-Str. eis tr. ö K Na tr. S-Bf. ha Str. Krankenhaus Thekla Bis er W .-Jahn-Str.Westplatz ten er Breite Str. r r . r z e F L 11 lit rk est Markkleeberg-West ö e D l w m e 12 r k u 9 se Se in pe as 13 hw tr. S-Bf. h c c s ns 2 15 10 16 ho f 9 a e c Bahnhof Markkleeberg. r S Str. Teslastr. Sommerfeld Rathaus Leutzsch r S platz W t Am Mückenn nn n S-Bf. Lützowstr.A ll f. Rathaus Str rn S tr Apelstr. . hk tzs ah tsc aetz Delitzscher/Essener Str.. Permoser/Torgauer c G.-Eisner-/ S1 Altes Messegelände A.-Liebknecht-/ S-Bf. . Post Taucha. eg z.-Körner-Str. An der Märchenwiese 6 .-Reis-Str. r Raschwitz Forsthaus Markleeberg.-Schwarz-/ n u he H s c H r ba Se Fr. chb uer ee er A der S-Bf. St st rst lle lst Str -St ge An den Tierkliniken us ta A. Ku Zs Wiedebach. thaler ke erh sstr ims euss ras Miltitz f e l L L g l F t o . Ahornstr. yg L. Völkerschlachtdenkmal R. . Coppiplatz Eutritzscher Zentrum 7 Friedrichshafner Str. Bahnhof 15 ee ee O . ke cher er t Str. R b K. 2 An Sc uer Sc Südfriedhof 3 Mathildenstr.-Heine-/ le e Roßplatz Riebeck/ str. . Anger-Crottendorf S lle sst ena e-/ tr. Strbf. Annaberger Str. Gohlis S-Bf. Engelsdorf S3 eri Re Köh Goerdelerring Augustus. e e e e t h r a K. u r s r platz S-Bf. lat hn Str. ue r. W lip c s i h E 11 14 ow Sc rg g m h r 3 A irc be be st Großstädteln. tzs gelKoburger Brücke 4 Hildebrandstr. Connewitz s 5 Wildpark Klemmur. tr. tr. Chapter 14: Dresden. L cke bein enb NordS-B ied Stallbaumstr. Dessauer Str. 4 S-Bahn Prager/Riebeck Str. Leutzsch Bautzner Str.-Lehmann-/ ch Naunhofer Str. 10 Eutritzscher Markt 11 Portitzer Allee Döringstr. t Leuschner f f Stötteritzer Clara-Zetkin-Park B ü S Witzgallstr. Industriegelände West rs z a e t ch e S3 Hauptt . f Merseburger Str. zs Menckestr. Ossietzky-/ a tr. Sommerfeld tö ne -Eis . G Fe No str r A her Riebeck-/Oststr. Hermelinstr.-Liebknecht-Platz e Pfingstweide Gorkistr. Mockau. Schönefeld.-HoffmannK.. g i r f t n t R.Liebermann-Str.-Schumann-/ Wilheminenstr. Hu Dantestr. en diu Lind iet urg Heinßers t r n e i r t n a r e e r Gutenbergplatz n S n . Wielandstr. ch ud ler ha atz S-Bf. Sc Fre Al Lü Sta St Viertelsweg P Sc Pittlerstr. d u Gottschallc h s e m o m e ic ir h 1 ll z ls te r tte Neues Rathaus He erse rit tr.A. hk Mod Hän str. str Theresienstr. R r i o H tt D tz K u sd R.

50€–16€ ($10–$20). Am Hallischen Tor 1. Dining in Leipzig More restaurants are opening in Leipzig all the time. MC. See map p. but this city is not particularly well known for its culinary scene. 10. Fax: 0341/965-3999. Reservations recommended. contemporary style. The menu features regional cuisine of Saxony. MC. 225. in a quiet Leipzig neighborhood close to the Altstadt. when Westin took over and began redecorating the 447 rooms in a sleek.m. % 800-327-0200 in the U.S. Tram: 4. or 0341/96530. Apels Garten $ –$$ GERMAN/SAXON This restaurant. with its painted ceiling.m. % 0341/960-7777. the cuisine is good. % 800/426-3135 in the U. 11. The hotel is a convenient five-minute walk from the train station. Fax: 0341/988-1229. and pork steaks. 225.S. Kolonnadenstrasse 2. the 27-story Westin reflects the Leipzig of today.–3:30 p. and one of its finest modern hotels. Tram: 3. DC. is known for its home-style German food. and Canada. 04109 225. Specialties include Saxon potato soup with wurst. Guests have a choice of the Historic Rooms (dinner only) or the Big Room (lunch and dinner). such as . and within easy walking distance of all the sights in the Altstadt. Not all rooms have been upgraded (the new ones are on the highest floors).com. AE. Open: Mon– Sat 11:30 a. You can dine out on the porch in warm weather. Rates include breakfast buffet. V. Tram: 4 or 6. The restaurant Brühl serves traditional German food. 6. Rates: 99€–164€ ($124–$205) double.westin. The décor is nostalgically oldfashioned. The restaurant is named after one of the old pleasure gardens that used to adorn Leipzig. It was an Inter-Continental hotel until 2003. pool. or 13. Sun 10 a. The Westin Leipzig $$$ –$$$$ City Center One of the city’s tallest buildings. This full-service hotel contains a health club. V. AE. filling ingredients. while Yamato is one of the best places in Leipzig for Japanese food. or 0341/9880.m. 04105 to midnight. Rates: 145€–235€ ($181–$294) double. and sauna. AE. www. and has room service. 8. www. DC. Regional cooking favors hearty portions and simple. See map p. V. roast duck with arugula. MC. Main courses: 7. Auerbachs Keller $ –$$ SAXON/INTERNATIONAL A group of sculpted bronze characters from Goethe’s play Faust adorns the staircase leading down to this famous medieval cellar restaurant where Goethe had Faust debate Mephistopheles. Gerberstrasse 15.228 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. but the old ones are comfortably furnished and have good-sized bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. Although more robust than refined.

Chapter 14: Dresden. DC. completed in 1687. Main courses: 8€–19€ ($10–$24). % 0341/216-100. once used by the rulers of Saxony as a royal guesthouse. to midnight. Most of the old and the new Leipzig that has appeal for visitors is concentrated in the Zentrum (City Center). the Alte Börse was the first baroque building in Leipzig. V. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). V. A short walk leads to the pastel baroque houses along Katharinenstrasse and the Brühl. % 0341/211-3115. Leipzig. Just east of the Marktplatz is the 12thcentury Nikolaikirche (St. Paulaner Palais $ GERMAN/BAVARIAN/AUSTRIAN This large. Exploring Leipzig Bombing in 1943 destroyed about one-quarter of Leipzig. Remnants of old Leipzig have been reconstructed around the Markt. with curving stairs and stucco garlands above the windows.m. On the east side of the square is the long. The Universität Leipzig (Leipzig University) occupies the area south of Grimmaisch-Strasse. The only beer they serve is the Munich-brewed Paulaner Bier. AE. to midnight. Reconstructed on the north side of the square is the step-gabled Renaissance Alte Waage (Old Weighing House). To the west rises the high-pitched roof of the 1. See map p. each offering the same menu. a small. to midnight. 225.m. has a restaurant and a more casual pub section. MC. The menu emphasizes boiled meats such as Tafelspitz (beef) with heavy sauces. and Weimar 229 warmes Bratenneckchen (roasted pork on brown bread with a pepper dip). To the south of Marktplatz is the Mädlerpassage. gabled. where Bach served as choirmaster for 27 years. Nicholas Church). Big Room daily 11:30 a. Across from this house. Tram: 4 or 6. Weisswurst (steamed pork sausage) from Munich. or Rostbratwurst (roasted sausages) from Nuremberg. Open: Daily 11 a. is the Königshaus (King’s House). The city has placed more of an emphasis on constructing the new than on restoring the old. the city’s best-known square. home of Auerbachs Keller (see “Dining in Leipzig” earlier in this chapter). Reservations recommended for dinner in Historic Rooms.) In the neighboring Naschmarkt. MC. Klostergasse 3–5. Renaissance Altes Rathaus. See map p. 225. AE. on the south side of the square. along with a selection of international dishes. Mädlerpassage. . where demonstrators for democracy gathered in 1989. (Peter the Great of Russia and Napoleon also stayed there. Open: Historic Rooms Mon–Sat 6 p. Tram: 4 or 6. housed in an 18th-century rococo building. Reservations recommended. The summer courtyard within the building is the nicest place to dine. but you can also get Saxon Sauerbraten. popular restaurant. a famous arcade of shops and restaurants. Thomas Church).000-year-old Thomaskirche (St. behind a statue of Goethe as a student. Kids enjoy the underground atmosphere and usually can find something on the menu to their liking. stands the yellow-and-white Alte Börse (Old Produce Exchange). easily walked area south of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station).m. Grimmaischestrasse 2–4.

Sun 11 a. friends of J.50) family ticket. Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (% 0341/913-7333. and the Mass in B Minor. Every May. You find beautiful examples of furniture. and 3 p. % 0341/ 973-1900) displays highlights from the permanent collection of . ߜ The Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Applied Arts Museum. including scores and letters. Augustus-Platz.. The house now contains the largest Bach archive in Germany. jointed doll dating from 1526. You can see everything in this small museum in about half an hour.m. Tours: Fri 3 p.bach-leipzig. Thomaskirchhof 16. Johann Christian. The immense and not very attractive new opera house occupies the north side of the square. Bach-Museum This reconstructed house standing in the shadow of the Thomaskirche once was home to the Bose family. Carl Philipp Emanuel. Tram: 21. Open: Daily 10 a. serves as the cultural heart of modern Leipzig. Matthew. and musical instruments collections. the three museums in the Grassi complex are scheduled to reopen in 2007. the Grassi Museum.–5 p.230 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bach in Leipzig The composer Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750) is Leipzig’s most famous citizen. See map p. are on display. 225.m.m.m. www. the Neues Gewandhaus concert hall stands on the south. porcelain. % 0341/222-9100) displays an array of handmade objects from the Middle Ages up to the early 20th century. Many mementos of the composer. Bach’s. Look for the extremely rare. the Passion According to St. during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche and other venues around town. Bach was the father of no fewer than 17 children (4 by his first wife.m.m. Grassi Museum Completed in 1929. and Wilhelm Friedemann. An excellent audio guide in English is included in the price of admission. and stayed for the rest of his life. www. also became composers. and glassware. ߜ The Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum of Ethnography. In Leipzig. to the east of the Nikolaikirche and the university. Three of his on Johannis-Platz just east of the Zentrum. ethnography. He came to Leipzig at the age of 38 to be choirmaster and director of the Thomaskirche’s boys’ choir and director of music at Leipzig University. % 0341/964-4133. houses Leipzig’s arts and crafts. Sat 2 p. 6€ ($7. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. you’ll be tempted to linger. if you love Bach. S.. Bach wrote more than 200 cantatas. 13 with his second). After years of restoration.

61 years to the day after its original home was destroyed by a bomb in WWII.m. www. and French musical instruments of the 16th to the 19th centuries.25) adults.50) children and students. The new building is a serenely handsome affair that hasn’t quite caught on with the public yet. www. ߜ The Museum für Musikinstrumente (Musical Instruments Museum. 15. The museum is open late on Thursday (until 8 p. local citizens took a giant step toward toppling the government of East Germany when they seized this building.50€ ($4. 1989.–6 p. Nicholas Church) The present church was built in the 16th century and has a white.Chapter 14: Dresden. or 24. On the nights of December 4 and 5. 225. German. 2.grassimuseum. and Weimar 231 cultural artifacts relating to the peoples of the world. Leipzig. Caspar David Friedrich).–6 p. but it also displays Dutch and Flemish art of the 17th century (including a lively Frans Hals). Tram: 21. free on second Sun of the % 0341/21-69-90. Bus: 8. A nice little cafe is located on the premises (open the same hours as the museum). Founded in % 0341/961-2443. Museum in der Runden Ecke (Stasi Museum) This chillingly fascinating museum is housed in the building that once was the headquarters of the dreaded Stasi (short for Staatssicherheit. Admission: 5€ ($6. On this site in 1989. 3.m.m. cube-shaped building on Sachsenplatz. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. European art of the 15th and 16th centuries. one of Germany’s most important art collections reopened in a new $ 100-million glass-and-steel. neoclassical interior. Leipzig’s Museum of Fine Arts is especially strong in German painting of the 19th century (including works by that quintessential Romantic. See map p. % 0341/973-0750). 17. 4. Nikolaikirche (St. and contemporary works.m.runde-ecke-leipzig.m. you may find you’re the only person there. Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) In late 2005. See map p.). www. Open: Daily 10 a. Allow at least an hour just to stroll through. Johannisplatz 5–11. Dittrichring 24. 225. de. Tram: 3. 6. 21. or “state security”).).000 demonstrators gathered with candles and began the peaceful revolution that toppled the . considered one of the best of its kind in the world. Open: Tues and Thurs–Sun 10 a. Katharinenstrasse 101 (on Sachsenplatz).m. 225. Admission: Combined ticket for 2 museums 5€ ($6.25) adults. exhibits Italian. but be aware that none of the exhibits are translated into English. Tram: 1. (Wed noon to 8 p. a group of 10. confiscating private letters and listening in on phone conversations.–6 p. 10€ ($13) family ticket.m. You may want to spend a few minutes here. See map p.m. An exhibition called “The Power and Banality of the East German Secret Police” documents the meticulous and paranoid methods by which Stasi agents monitored every exchange of information in East Germany. mdbk. the East German Ministry for State Security. Admission: Free.

centrally located outdoor market that sells vegetables. and memorabilia to guide you through the tumultuous last half-century in eastern Germany. 6.m. See map p. sophisticated. and close at 10 p.m. and Richard Wagner was christened here in 1813. and a bit of everything. The church was built on the site of a 13thcentury monastery and was heavily restored after WWII and again after reunification. or 13.. meats. expensive boutiques.–6 p.m.m. with about 140 shops and cafes that open between 6:30 and 9 a. Its high-pitched roof dates from 1496. Shopping in Leipzig Exploring the handsomely restored Art Nouveau Arkaden (arcades) that thread through the historic core of Leipzig is fun. was choirmaster in this church from 1723 until his death 27 years later. 6. % 0341/960-5270. The Naschmarkt. newsreels.–6 p. Open daily in December in front of the Altes Rathaus. East Germany’s Communist government.m.m. the choir presents concerts every Sunday morning and Friday evening. 4. cheeses. See map p. Admission: Free. Leipzig’s Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) recently was transformed into a giant shopping mall. % 0341/960-2855. 11. Thomas Church) Leipzig’s most famous resident. plants. Thomaskirche (St. Set up chronologically. See map p. Mädlerpassage is Leipzig’s finest arcade. Nikolaikirchhof. Open: Daily 8 a. audio.” the exhibit may help you better understand contemporary German history.m. documents. Open: Tues–Fri 9 a. on weekdays and 4 p. Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a tradition dating back to . lined with chic. the exhibit uses photos.–5 p. 10. % 0341/22200. 225.m. Admission: Free. or 20. 8. When it isn’t touring. on Saturday. Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) I recommend that anyone traveling to Leipzig visit this free multimedia exhibition.–6 p. Described as a place of “living remembrance. 6. is a lively. 225. the church’s famous boys’ choir. The movement started as a prayer group in the Nikolaikirche in 1982. Bach wrote his great cantatas for the Thomanerchor. Sat–Sun 10 a. what life was like in Communist East Germany.m. Give yourself at least an hour. and the events that triggered the fall of the GDR. Johann Sebastian Bach. 15.m. Grimmaische Strasse 6. Tram: 2. first organized in the 13th century. Both Mozart and Mendelssohn also performed in the Thomaskirche. Tram: 4. Thomaskirchhof 18 (just off Marktplatz). or 8. His body was moved here in 1950 on the 200th anniversary of his death and reburied in front of the altar. Open: Daily 9 a.m. Tram: 4. Admission: Free. open Monday through Saturday. 225.232 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany GDR.

is the hippest bar and cafe in Leipzig. or 15). 4. writers. Weimar also is famous in the history of Germany. Discovering nightlife in Leipzig Leipzig’s active nightlife offers something for everyone. Mephisto Bar. Bosestrasse 1 (% 0341/ 12680. The town is well known to architecture buffs. Attending a concert by this great orchestra is a special treat. is one of Germany’s greatest cultural shrines. The area around the Markt is full of bars. 21. is the home of the world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra. the Schauspielhaus. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 45€ ($13–$56). and composers made their homes in this small Thuringian town on the River Ilm. 12. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 30€ ($12–$37). 5. lived and worked in Weimar for 50 years. 13. Tram: 4. a concert hall built in 1981. 17. cafes. Some of the country’s most revered painters. Its home is the Opernhaus. the orchestra premiered works by Beethoven. http://oper-leipzig. 6. gewandhaus. is home to several arts companies that stage a mix of theatrical and musical productions in German.) sell a variety of craft items and Christmas food and drink. considered Germany’s greatest literary genius. 5. or 24). and other entertainment options. because the German national assembly met here in 1919 to draw up the constitution for the ill-fated Weimar Republic. Mendelssohn. 13. Special organ concerts and performances of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and Handel’s Messiah also take place. great for people-watching. Leipzig’s main theater. Founded in 1781. Germany’s first democratic government after World War I (WWI). opposite the Neues Gewandhaus. or 15). Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment Beautiful Weimar (vie-mar). 12.m. and Brahms. Mädlerpassage (% 0341/216-100. 2. and Weimar 233 1767. which honors Goethe and the Faust legend. a 1. because the first Bauhaus School of Art and Design was founded . Augustusplatz (% 0341/127-0280. Augustusplatz 8 (% 0341/ 126-1261. For a sampling of lively cafes. Stalls (open daily 10 a. Schubert. The Neues Gewandhaus. Tram: 4. Tram: 1. www. Ticket prices for opera and ballet range from 9€ to 60€ ($11–$75). beginning around 8 p.m. Tram: 4 or 6). walk down Barfüssergässchen. from opera and classical concerts to late-night bars and discos. Live music is performed Thursday through Saturday. just south of the Altes Rathaus. Goethe. or spent portions of their creative lives here.m.000-year-old town that once was a center of the German Enlightenment. The Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera) is one of Germany’s most acclaimed opera companies.–8 p.Chapter 14: Dresden.

www. Staying in Weimar Since reunification. and 215km (134 miles) southwest of Dresden. often in historic buildings. and Dresden. By car. and 2 p. The tourist office offers a two-hour walking tour (in German) of Weimar daily at 10 a. Weimar is an easy daytrip from Leipzig or Dresden.bahn. even Hitler. 118km (74 miles) southwest of Leipzig. Markt 10 (% 03643/7450. and Weimar is a stop on the InterRegio express train between Frankfurt and Berlin. to 6 p. in the town’s central marketplace. Finding information and taking a tour Tourist-Information am Markt. is available free. Takt. Enough of old Weimar remains to give you a good sense of what the town was like when Goethe lived there.m. with a past guest roster that includes for adults. turning off at Hermsdorfer Kreuz for Weimar.m. hides a stylishly . Buy tickets at the tourist office.. Leipzig.234 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany here in 1919. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. Fast InterCity Express (ICE) trains run from Frankfurt. de).m. The meeting point is the tourist information office. fronting Weimar’s picturesque marketplace.m. The elegant late-17th-century facade. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$$ –$$$$ City Center The Hotel Elephant is Weimar’s most famous hotel.weimar. For rail information and schedules. Getting there Weimar lies 262km (162 miles) southwest of Berlin. you may want to spend the night. new hotels have opened throughout Weimar. but because Weimar offers plenty to see. 4€ ($5) for students. in part because its old winding streets are sprinkled with the homes (now museums) of famous figures. you can reach Weimar via the A4 Autobahn linking Frankfurt and Dresden. The tourist offices listed earlier under “Finding information and taking a tour” also can help you find a hotel room or pension. Unlike Dresden and Leipzig. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. to 3 p.m. or the A9 Autobahn between Berlin and Munich. Tolstoy. the price is 6€ ($7. Weimar was not completely destroyed by bombs in WWII. children younger than 14 free. call % 11861 or visit the Deutsche Bahn Web site (www. the local entertainment listings magazine. Weimar is a joy to explore. the Nazis established the concentration camp Buchenwald on the outskirts of this city. Good train connections to Weimar’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) are available from anywhere in Germany. During WWII.m.

Information i ATTRACTIONS Bauhaus-Museum 3 Goethes Gartenhaus 10 Goethes Wohnhaus & Goethe Nationalmuseum 9 Liszt-Haus 11 Schillers Wohnhaus 6 Schloss Belvedere 12 Schlossmuseum 2 Weimar Haus– Das Geschichtserlebnis 4 Wittumspalais 5 de A rer e lle . rg as se Brüh l WEIMARHALLENPARK To Buchenwald Frieden str. Breitsc heidstr. mb Hu r. tst old Ama nech t ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Hotel Kaiserin Augusta 1 DINING Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Zum Schwarzen Bären 7 Haus k rastr Coud Fr. d.- Goetheplatz Graben Karlstra Stadtkirche St. Peter und Paul HerderEisfeld sse lKege e c rü B k asse Eng els Ri Leibn izalle e Sch il r a s se Puschk Stub enst rass 9 Pl. To Train Station 1 0 0 1/10 mile 100 meters Jakobstraß e knech tstrass e N s aer Str a s Jen K.4 Deutsches platz 5 M ar le rst 6 LucasRathaus i Markt CranachHaus 7 se k t stras Sc h Burgplatz Stern Brück e Ilm l os Sch ube rtstr asse Ilm Acker-w Ma rien trass e and Corona-Schroter Str.-F W rell ag igra ne th str.Chapter 14: Dresden. 2 Erf urt er Str ass Nationaltheater e 3 Theater. Be lv e R. e 10 ng Bauhaus Universität Weimar 11 PARK K A R AN D E R ILM str. and Weimar 235 Weimar F. Lieb Schwa nseestr Rollplatz asse Johannis kirche e e-stras se H -He i n platz s -g . 12 Berlin GERMANY Weimar liens CEMETERY Goethe-Schiller Mausoleum Str. 8 8 Demokratie or n Am H instr. Leipzig.

Bus: 10. AE. but they are fully equipped. 235. however. moderately priced hotel sits right across the street from the train station. V. Open: Anna Amalia daily 6:30–10:30 p. or 71. 235. Fax: 03643/802-610. www. . make use of local produce and ingredients. Bathrooms are large. Anna Amalia is modern and airy. DC. Down one flight of steps is the historic Elephantenkeller (Elephant Cellar). 99423 Weimar. Breakfast costs an additional 18€ ($ 22). 99423 Weimar. try local specialties such as sweet-and-sour Thuringian pot roast with dumplings or Thuringian-style grilled bratwurst on sauerkraut with puréed peas. 11. Bathrooms are small and have showers only.. a garden terrace. Dining in Weimar As with Leipzig. www. See map p. Carl-August-Allee 17. Am Markt 19. AE. arabellasheraton.236 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany contemporary interior. See map p. The 99 rooms come in different sizes but are furnished basically the same. DC. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$ –$$$ GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Weimar’s oldest hotel has two restaurants. or 71. % 03643/2340. V. In October. Am Markt 19. and the buffet breakfast is good. most have a tub/shower combination. comfortable. and good service. convenient. with pearwood furniture and Art Deco styling. Since reunification. Fax: 03643/234444. % 03643/802-639. Elephantenkeller Thurs–Tues noon to 3 a. The 134 rooms are not large or luxurious. Its Italian dishes. MC. Hotel Kaiserin Augusta $ –$$ City Center This good. Rates: 169€–235€ ($211–$293) double. Otherwise.hotel-kaiserin-augusta. when Weimar’s famous Zwiebelmarkt (onion market) is open (a tradition dating back to 1653). MC. Weimar is not a city renowned for its culinary past. some new restaurants with savvier cooking and better ingredients have opened. V. Reservations recommended. Bus: 10. a place for casual dining in a rustic atmosphere. The staff is friendly. See map p. this restaurant serves specialty onion salads. Rates include buffet breakfast. Elephantenkeller 6€–16€ ($7–$20). a dress-up sort of place with beautifully set tables.m. MC. 11. % 03643/8020.m. and very well maintained. and 6–11 p. Rates: 77€–139€ ($96–$174) double. among the best in the Main courses: Anna Amalia 16€–26($20–$32).

wanted to surround himself with clever. to midnight. Duke Karl. 235. which was founded in Weimar in 1919 and sought to unify arts and crafts within the context of architecture. Goethe’s patron. Zum Schwarzen Bären $ THURINGIAN Located next door to the Hotel Elephant. entertaining people. % 03643/564-161. furniture. Nothing is fancy about it. See map p. all of which you can easily see on foot. % 03643/853-847. Theaterplatz. In Weimar. this restaurant is Weimar’s oldest.50) adults.–6 p. Dishes include potato soup with sausage.m. Bus: 1. with its large park. Leipzig. 2. Exploring Weimar Weimar enjoys a scenic location on the Ilm River.m. Surrounding the Altstadt is the newer Weimar. Open: Daily 11 a. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832) was invited to the duchy of Weimar by the teenaged Duke Karl August. The Altstadt (Old City). set the tone for the salons. has many historic sights. One room showcases the work of Henry van de Velde. Main courses: 7€–15€ ($9–$19). schnitzel with potatoes. and Weimar 237 Goethe and the court of Weimar In 1775. Goethe wrote the play Faust. architectural drawings. Bauhaus-Museum The focus of this museum is the Bauhaus movement. His mother. 11. 3.m. . Bus: 10. 5. Goethe’s fame rested on the novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. treelined boulevards and many 19th-century buildings.50) seniors and students.50€ ($4. which brought a new. 235. tea sets. The collection of Bauhaus memorabilia includes rugs. the work for which he is most famous. Markt. so you can see everything in about half an hour. or 71. Duchess Anna Amalia.Chapter 14: Dresden. remains the lively heart of the old city. and pork medallions with Gorgonzola sauce. with broad. which were referred to as the “Court of the Muses. See map p. Admission: 4. or 7. V. The museum is fairly compact. MC. the town’s main square. classically inspired rationalism to German art and literature. 3. suicidal artist. but you can get a good. set against the backdrop of the Ettersberg and Vogtland hills. particularly the playwright Friedrich Schiller. an important architect-designer of Art Nouveau.50€ ($5. Markt 20. the architect Walter Gropius. rumpsteak. 6. which had become a sensation throughout Europe for its depiction of a suffering.” Thanks to Goethe and his friends. hefty meal for a reasonable cost. the little duchy of Weimar gained renown as a center of the German Enlightenment (Erklärung). Open: Daily 10 a. and toys collected by the school’s director.

or 12. in less than 15 minutes.m. See map p. The structure was built as a garden house in the 16th century. Bus: 1. % 03643/545-388. longer if you’re a Goethe fan. Liszt gathered young musicians around him in the high-ceilinged.25) students and seniors. his study a soothing green. Admission: 3. Goethe had his dining room painted a sunny yellow. Goethe used the house as a summer retreat. you find more Goethe memorabilia. The house is part of the adjoined Goethe National Museum. Schillers Wohnhaus (Schiller House) After his friend Goethe. Displayed in the redcarpeted salon are one of Liszt’s pianos and the portable clavichord he used to exercise his fingers while he was traveling.–6 p. Bus: 1.40) adults.m. located just up the street from Goethe’s house. 2.50€ ($3) adults. 10. 5. Tours (in German): Tues and Fri at 1 p. from 1802 to 1805. enlarged in the 17th century. See map p. % 03643/545-320. 5€ ($6. and reconstructed in 1996 according to the plans of 1820. when he was 82 years old. Open: Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. % 03643/545-375. an audio guide in English is available.50€ ($3) students and children. 2€ ($2. The house is .50€ ($8) adults. located in the bucolic park on the Ilm River. and designed special cabinets to display his Italian majolica plates. or 8.m. When Goethe returned from Italy. which has a few pieces of period furniture. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe House) and Goethe Nationalmuseum The large baroque house where Goethe lived from 1782 to 1832 is Weimar’s most popular attraction. the Hungarian composer and most famous pianist of the 19th century. Marienstrasse 17. Admission: 2. 2. The house has 14 rooms. 235. 235. Im Park an der Ilm. handsomely furnished rooms. spent the last period of his life in this house located at the west entrance of Park an der Ilm. 235.–6 p. he replaced the baroque staircase with broad stairs in the style of the Italian Renaissance. some of them pretty much as Goethe and his wife. 6.50€ ($4. In the museum.50€ ($3). Frauenplan 1. Goethe died in his sparsely furnished bedchamber on March 22. Admission: House and museum 6. overflowing with enthusiasm for all things Italian.m.–6 p. left them. Christiane. Believing that colors affect mood. Friedrich von Schiller (1759–1805) is the greatest name in German literature. but the museum requires a separate admission. was Goethe’s first residence when he came to Weimar in 1775 as a guest of Duke Karl August. 10. or 12.238 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Goethes Gartenhaus (Goethe’s Garden House) This simple stone cottage with a high-pitched roof.. See map p. filled the house with casts of ancient busts and statues. 2.m. He lived with his family in this house. and his reception room a calming blue. Letters and other personal and musical mementos also are on view. 1832. Open: House and museum daily 9 a.50) students and children younger than 12. You can see the interior. You need about half an hour to see everything. Open: Daily 10 a. Liszt-Haus Franz Liszt.m. Throughout his life. Bus: 1.m.

winter 10 a. 5.50€ ($8) adults.–6 p.m. Weimar Haus–Das Geschichtserlebnis (Weimar House–The Weimar Story) This multimedia attraction provides a basic introduction to Weimar’s history. Open: Wed–Mon Apr–Oct 9 a. % 03643/546-160. 6.m. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. The English-style park was laid out between 1814 and 1840. replaced the royal castle that burned down in 1774.m. Admission: 6. Bus: 12. theater sets. . Schlossmuseum (Castle Museum) This neoclassical structure.m. Orangerie Jan–Apr Wed–Sun 11 a. including Wilhelm Tell (William Tell).m. Bus: 1.–4 p.10) seniors. Schloss Belvedere (Belvedere Palace) A pretty. and other famous names associated with Weimar.. through the time of Goethe. 235.C. 5. 4€ ($6) children.50€ ($3. Open: Daily. you find a collection of decorative art from the rococo period. Nov–Mar 9 a. 6.–6 p. Flemish and Italian paintings. Admission: 3. Schiller.m. Bus: 1.m. Bus: 1. or 6.–7 p. 2.m.–6 p.m.m. baroque château located 3km (2 miles) south of Weimar.50€ ($2) children.50€ ($3). summer 10 a. Luther. 7.50) adults.Chapter 14: Dresden. Tours (in German): Mon 1 p.000 B. Belvedere Palace was a favorite retreat of Duchess Anna Amalia and her son’s “enlightened” Weimar court. Orangerie 2€ ($2.. You can visit both in about two hours. Burgplatz 4. begun in 1789 and completed in 1803. See map p. Wax figures created by artists who worked for London’s Madame Tussaud. and videotaped projections help tell Weimar’s story from the earliest settlers in 3. % 03643/546-162. 5.. Give yourself about 45 minutes to wander through the galleries. 2.–6 p. and expressionist paintings by Max Beckmann and Max Lieberman. 235. Schiller wrote his last works.m.m. Inside the château.50€ ($4.75) children. Admission: Palace 4€ ($5) adults. The museum has a series of galleries dedicated to Schiller. See map p.. Open: Palace Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. See map p..m. audio guides in English are available. % 03643/901-890. students.–4 p. Goethe. or 8. 1.25) adults.m. Of more general interest are the painting galleries containing important works by Lucas Cranach the Elder (including a portrait of Martin Luther). 235. and children.m. Schillerstrasse 12. 4. In the attic rooms. See map p.25) students. 5.50€ ($7) seniors.m. 3€ ($3. Nov–Mar 10 a. Admission: 5€ ($6. 3.m. 8. and Napoleon. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. and Weimar 239 furnished as it would have been in Schiller’s day. 3. % 03643/545-350. Schillerstrasse 16–18. You can wander through the entire house in about 15 minutes.–4 p. 1€ ($1. Leipzig. or 10. The orangerie displays a collection of historical coaches. 235. Belvederer Allee. 2. 2.50) adults.

Later. At least 56. Completed in 1767. Bus No.m.–4 p. is the oldest town in the region and the capital of Thuringia. 4. prisoners of war. once the home of Johann Sebastian Bach.” where artists. homosexuals. See map p. You can visit Buchenwald May through September. who presided over a “Court of the Muses. to 5 p. 22km (14 miles) west of Weimar.S. and others in this work camp from 1937 until the camp’s liberation by the U. The Nazis confined about a quarter of a million Jews. and dozens of picturesque medieval villages dot the narrow. 235.m. Tuesday to Sunday from 8:45 a. Army in 1945. % 03643/4300). doctors. The house. To reach the memorial. poets. the Nazis set up one of their nightmare concentration camps. is the starting point of a popular hiking trail known as Auf Goethes Spuren (In Goethe’s Footsteps).. the Soviets sent thousands of prisoners here to die.225 ft. winding roads.m. to 6 p. Admission is free. devoted to mementos of the German Enlightenment. Bus: 1. October through April. 6 from Weimar’s main train station makes the trip northwest of town to Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial. spruce-clad mountains rise to about 985m (3. long extolled by nature lovers for its scenic beauty. Ilmenau. Just south of Erfurt is picturesque Arnstadt. If you want to explore this picturesque area by car. Soviet occupation forces also used the site as an internment camp.m. representing victims of fascism. and philosophers met to discuss issues of science. has an extensive collection of paintings.– 6 p. Exploring the Thuringian Forest Weimar sits in the northeastern corner of the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest). thought.m. a 110km (68-mile) . % 03643/545-377. in beech woods (Buchenwald) where Goethe and Schiller once walked. one of the great cities of German art and culture. Admission: 4€ ($5.75) students and children. 3.m. political prisoners. 3€ ($3. A memorial with a cluster of “larger than life” people. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. and art. Nov–Mar 10 a. silhouettes (all the rage back then). take Bus No.240 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Buchenwald: Remembering the past About 10km (6 miles) from Weimar. and many thousands of others were sent from here to death camps in the east. Within the forest. Gypsies.000 people died at Buchenwald. Theaterplatz. the site of the camp. or 6. 6 marked “Buchenwald. 2. a lively university town south of Arnstadt. Erfurt.” Wittumspalais A short walk along Schillerstrasse from the Schiller House leads to the elegant Wittumspalais (vit-ooms-pa-lay). the “Widow’s Palace” was the residence of the widowed Dowager Duchess Anna Amalia. old castles crown the tops of hills. The museum reflects both the Soviet and the Nazi past of the camp.). and costumes. honors the people from 32 nations who lost their lives at Buchenwald.25) adults. Between 1945 and 1951. Tuesday to Sunday from 9:45 a.m.. Slavs. 5. which leads to places associated with the great poet.m.

and Thiersch Antikitäten. where Franz Liszt and Richard Strauss once conducted. dance.) You can buy tickets for opera. silver. Also appealing are Antikitäten am Schloss. the National Congress passed the new democratic constitution that was the basis for the short-lived Weimar Republic. Obereschlossgasse 2 (% 03643/512-993). Schillerstrasse 22 (same phone). prices range from 8€ to 35€ ($10–$37). Bräuhausgasse 15 (% 03643/402-540). crystal. The most interesting shops include Antikitäten am Palais. Goethe-Antiquariat. (This building is also where. Kaiser Antikitäten. selling books only. and its immediate neighbor.Chapter 14: Dresden. Shopping in Weimar A visit to Weimar’s antiques stores offers a chance to buy porcelain. and furniture that survived the devastation of WWII. Weimar’s bars and outdoor cafes are good places to drink and talk into the night. Discovering nightlife in Weimar Weimar’s main performance venue is the Deutsches Nationaltheater (German National Theater). Theaterplatz (% 03643/755-334). and Weimar 241 scenic road called the Thuringer Hochstrasse (Thuringian High Road) runs from Eisenach to Ilmenau. Kaufenstrasse 7 (% 03643/402-567). Schillerstrasse 22 (% 03643/59625). Leipzig. and concerts at the tourist information centers or the theater box office. in 1919. You find a good selection to choose from along Schillerstrasse and around Theaterplatz. .

242 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .

Part IV Southern and Western Germany .

and Neuschwanstein. Going beyond Munich. S In this part . . Western Germany includes the popular and populous Rhineland region and many famous cities that are easy to reach and fun to explore. and what to see. You find everything you need to know about Germany’s secret capital: how to get there and get around. Chapter 19 is all about Cologne (Köln in German). famed for its woodcarvers. in Chapter 16. I highlight lovely Lake Constance.outhern Germany is different from other regions in Germany. . a lively city on the Rhine famous for its spectacular Gothic cathedral. home to the cities of Freiburg and Baden-Baden. Chapter 20 is all about Frankfurt. Stuttgart. and the Schwarzwald. an ideal driving tour loaded with unspoiled medieval towns. and must-see attractions such as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. I devote Chapter 15 entirely to Munich. bucolic scenery. and Nuremberg (Nürnberg in German). known as the Bodensee in Germany. Germany’s most famous walled medieval city. . I describe additional sightseeing possibilities in Bavaria. In case you’re eager to ride the Rhine. Easy day trips from Cologne include the wine-growing regions of the Mosel Valley and the Rheingau section of the Rhine Valley. as you discover in this part. including the Romantic Road. the romantic town on the Neckar River. I also tell you about visiting the alpine resort towns of GarmischPartenkirchen and Oberammergau. In Chapter 17. how to find a fine hotel or restaurant. I tell you about boat trips through the river’s most scenic stretches. or Black Forest. Chapter 18 covers three cities in western and central Germany: Heidelberg. the cultural capital of southwest Germany. the sophisticated city with the huge international airport that is the German port of entry for many international visitors. one of the most scenically delightful areas in all of Deutschland. the most dramatic of Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castles. with its picturesque corners and Gothic churches. the beautiful capital of Bavaria.

pronounced Mewn-shin. from January through February. and theaters are part and parcel of life in the Bavarian capital. one of those hard-to-translate words that means something like cozy and/or good-natured. the capital of Bavaria. Walk through the Altstadt (Old Town) on a warm. sophisticated city. and enjoying life. listen to the oom-pah-pah bands. Oktoberfest. sunny day or a balmy night and you see people sitting outside. Munich offers so much to visitors that I recommend you give yourself at least three days here. elegant. eating. Before Lent. with an unparalleled array of artistic and cultural treasures. people gather in the giant beer halls and beer gardens to quaff liters of beer. palaces.Chapter 15 Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Munich ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Discovering the top attractions ᮣ Shopping for fashions. Oom-pah-pah aside. Munich also is a rich. in every square. masked balls. a whirl of colorful parades. and revelry. Think of Gemütlichkeit as a kind of cozy charm and you’ll get the picture. concert halls. Many Germans — especially the 1.5 million people who live in Munich — think of the city as Germany’s secret capital. drinking. . Throughout the year. The city is all about prosperity and good-natured Gemütlichkeit. in German). and have a good time. If you believe the polls. the city goes into party mode again and celebrates Fasching (Carnival). and more ᮣ Enjoying Munich’s nightlife M unich (München. starts in September and lasts for 16 days. food. Munich is the Germans’ first choice as a desirable place to live. is a town that likes to celebrate. which attracts some 7 million revelers. World-class museums.

50) children. Munich’s coat of arms has included a figure of the Münchner Kindl.munich-airport. Daily trains arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 33⁄4 hours) and Berlin (trip time: 7 hours). with a hotel. the airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world. www. . and 10:42 a. or “little monk. Trains leave from the S-Bahn platform beneath the airport every 20 minutes daily between 4:02 a. Like Frankfurt. Connected to the rail station are the city’s extensive S-Bahn rapid-transit system and the U-Bahn (subway) The S-8 S-Bahn (% 089/4142-4344) train connects the airport with the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in downtown Munich. www.. 1. You find a train information office on the mezzanine level. is one of Europe’s largest train stations. on Bahnhofplatz near the city center. Opened in 1992.” Since that time. so you can fly there directly from the United States. to 7:50 p. Munich’s Hauptbahnhof. is located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. Munich has no lack of transportation options. A taxi to the city center costs about 70€ ($87) and can take more than an hour if traffic is heavy. less frequently through the night. a small village located near a Benedictine abbey on the river Isar called itself Mönch. By train You can easily reach Munich by train from any city in Germany or Europe.m. % 11861 for train information and schedules [an English speaker will be available to help you].bahn.40€ ($10) adults. shopping. you can also call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail. By plane Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss International Airport (% 089/9752-1313. German for “monk.m. The city is easily accessible from anywhere within Germany or Europe. Munich has an international airport.m.m. open daily from 7 a.246 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The little monk of Munich In the ninth century.m. 5€ ($6. The Lufthansa Airport Bus (% 089/323-040) also runs between the airport and the main train station in Munich every 20 minutes from 5:10 a.10€ ($1. to 8 p. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. The fare for the 40-minute trip is 8.m.. and banking facilities.” Getting There As one of Germany’s major cities.25) for children.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


By car
I do not recommend driving in Munich. Most of downtown is a pedestrian-only area — wonderful if you’re a walker, a nightmare if you’re a driver. Traffic jams are frequent, and parking spaces are elusive and costly. If you plan on making excursions into the countryside, renting a car in the city center instead of trekking out to the airport is more convenient. Car-rental companies with windows at the main train station include Avis (% 089/1260-000), Hertz (% 089/1295-001), and Sixt Autovermietung (% 089/550-2447).

Finding Information After You Arrive
Munich’s tourist office, Fremdenverkehrsamt München (% 089/23396500;, operates a tourist information center in the main train station (Bahnhofplatz 2, adjacent to the DER Reisebüro/ German Rail Travel Office). You can pick up a map of Munich, get information on cultural events, and book a hotel room. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. You find another branch of the tourist office in the city center at Marienplatz in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); hours are Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can make a hotel reservation online or at the main tourist office.

Orienting Yourself in Munich
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is an oval-shaped pedestrian-only district on the west bank of the Isar River. (See the “Munich Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.) Munich’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) lies just west of the Altstadt. Marienplatz, the Altstadt’s most important square, is where you find several important churches, the Residenz (former royal palace), the National Theater, and the Viktualienmarkt, a wonderfully lively outdoor market. Between Marienplatz and the National Theater is the Platzl quarter, famed for its nightlife, restaurants, and the landmark Hofbräuhaus, the most famous beer hall in the world. Odeonsplatz, to the north of Marienplatz, is Munich’s most beautiful square. Running west from Odeonsplatz is Briennerstrasse, a wide shopping avenue that leads to Königsplatz (King’s Square). Flanking this large square, in an area known as the Museum Quarter, are three neoclassical buildings constructed by Ludwig I and housing Munich’s antiquities: the Propyläen, the Glyptothek, and the Antikensammlungen. Another triad of world-famous art museums — the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Masters Gallery), and the Pinakothek Moderne Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art) — also lie in the Museum Quarter, just northeast of Königsplatz.

248 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Munich Neighborhoods


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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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250 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Ludwigstrasse connects the Altstadt with Schwabing, a former artists’ quarter located north of the Altstadt and known for its cafes, restaurants, and nightlife. Olympiapark, site of the 1972 Olympics, is northwest of Schwabing. The sprawling park known as the Englischer Garten is located east of Schwabing. East of the Isar River lie Bogenhausen and Haidhausen, leafy neighborhoods just outside the city center where you find some hotels and restaurants. Theresienwiese, site of the annual Oktoberfest, and Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace), one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces, are both located west of the Altstadt.

Getting Around Munich
Munich is a large city, only slightly smaller than Berlin or Hamburg. The best way to explore is by walking and using the excellent publictransportation system. Subways (U-Bahn), trams (Strassenbahn), buses, and light-rail lines (S-Bahn) make getting anywhere in the city easy. In the Altstadt, you can walk to all the attractions — in fact, you have to, because the Altstadt is a car-free zone. For information, call the publictransportation authority, MVV, at % 089/4142-4344, or visit it on the Web at

Using public transportation
You’ll probably use the underground U-Bahn (subway) and the aboveground Strassenbahn (tram) systems most frequently. The same ticket entitles you to ride U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses. Purchase tickets from vending machines marked Fahrkarten in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations; the machines display instructions in English. You also can buy tickets in the tram or from a bus driver. Tickets must then be validated in the machines found on platforms and in buses and trams; stick your ticket into the machine, which stamps it with the date and time. A validated ticket is valid for two hours. You can transfer as often as you like to any public transportation as long as you travel in the same direction. Munich has four concentric fare zones. Most, if not all, of your sightseeing will take place in Zone 1, which includes the city center. A single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) in Zone 1 costs 2.20€ ($2.75). The München Welcome Card, available at either Fremdenverkehrsamt München tourist information center, lets you ride all public transportation and offers discounts of up to 50 percent off on major tourist attractions and city tours. A tageskarte (day ticket) good for a day of travel within the city limits costs 6.50€ ($8) for adults, 2.30€ ($3) for children 6 to 14. A 3-tageskarte (three-day ticket) costs 12€ ($15). A partner 3-tageskarte, a three-day ticket good for two people traveling together, costs 20€ ($25). You can buy these cards from the ticket vending machines or at station ticket windows.

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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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252 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Catching a cab
Taxis are cream-colored, plentiful, and expensive. You can get a taxi at one of the stands located all across the city, or you can hail a cab on the street if its rooftop light is illuminated. Taxi fares begin at 2.70€ ($3.50); each additional kilometer costs 1.25€ to 1.60€ ($1.60–$2), depending on the distance; there’s an additional 1€ ($1.25) to order a taxi by phone. Call Taxizentrale at % 089/21610 for a radio-dispatched taxi.

Staying in Style
Hotels in Munich are more expensive than elsewhere in Germany, and rooms are scarce (and prices much higher) during Oktoberfest and when trade fairs are in town. I strongly recommend that you book your Munich hotel room in advance. I’ve weighted my choices toward hotels in central Munich. The highest prices in this section are for rooms during Oktoberfest and trade fairs. The Fremdenverkehrsamt (tourist office) in the main train station (see the “Finding Information After You Arrive” section earlier in this chapter) can book a room for you and give you a map with instructions for reaching it. The service is free, but the office collects a 10 percent deposit of the total value of the room; the hotel then deducts this amount from your bill. For locations, see the “Central Munich Accommodations and Dining” map in this chapter.

The top hotels
Here you can find a variety of great hotels. See also the listing for the outstanding Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München ($$$$) in Chapter 22.

Advokat Hotel
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt
You don’t find frills or froufrou in this streamlined 50-room hotel in a 1930s apartment building. The Advokat is strictly minimalist in approach and has an understated elegance. The rooms are medium-sized, with clean, simple furnishings. Each room comes with a compact bathroom, most with tub and shower. See map p. 254. Baaderstrasse 1, 80469 München. % 089/21-63-10. Fax: 089/216-3190. S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk south on Zweibrücken Strasse and west on Baaderstrasse). Rates: 155€–275€ ($194–$344) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit An der Oper
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt


This five-story hotel, dating from 1969, is wonderfully situated for sightseeing and shopping in the Altstadt. The décor is basic modern without being particularly distinguished. The 68 rooms are on the small side but have double-glazed windows and a small sitting area. The bathrooms are small, too, and come with a shower. See map p. 254. Falkenturmstrasse 11 (just off Maximilianstrasse, near Marienplatz), 80331 München. % 089/290-0270. Fax: 089/2900-2729. www.hotelanderoper. com. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater stop (then a 5-minute walk south on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Falkenturmstrasse). Rates: 150€–235€ ($187–$294) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

$$ –$$$$ Near Train Station
If you want a nice place right across the street from the train station, this is the best. From the outside, this large hotel looks a bit austere, but the interior has been redone with a pleasantly modern look. Most of the 211 rooms are fairly large, and all are decorated in a comfortable, unobtrusive style. Bathrooms are larger than average, with tub and shower. One child younger than age 6 is allowed to stay free in a parent’s room; for an additional child, an extra bed can be rented for 42€ ($52). See map p. 254. Arnulfstrasse 4, 80335 München. % 089/551-150. Fax: 089/5511-5555. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is opposite the north side of the train station). Rates: 139€–282€ ($174–$352) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gästehaus Englischer Garten
$ –$$$ Schwabing
This 25-room guesthouse near the Englischer Garten is quiet, charming, and an excellent value. The rooms are small to medium in size and decorated with a homey mixture of antiques, old-fashioned beds, and Oriental rugs. The bathrooms are small, with showers only. You can save a few euros by renting one of the six rooms that share bathrooms. In an annex across the street are 15 small apartments, each with a bathroom and a kitchenette. Breakfast costs an extra 9€ ($11); on nice mornings, you can eat outside in the back garden. See map p. 254. Liebergesellstrasse 8, 80802 München-Schwabing. % 089/383-9410. Fax: 089/3839-4133. U-Bahn: Münchener Freiheit (then a 10-minute walk east on Haimhäuserstrasse to Erninger Platz and east on Liebergesellstrasse). Rates: 68€–120€ ($85–$150) double without bathroom; 114€–180€ ($142–$225) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

254 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Central Munich Accommodations and Dining
ACCOMMODATIONS Advokat Hotel 37 Am Markt 35 An der Oper 26 Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 13 Eden-Hotel-Wolff 3 Gästehaus Englischer Garten 16 Hotel Bristol München 8 Hotel Exquisit 7 Hotel Jedermann 4 Hotel Mark 10 Hotel Olympic 9 Hotel Opera 41 Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel 44 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München 40 Königshof 11 Königswache 1 Mandarin Oriental 30 München City Hilton 38 Platzl Hotel 33 Splendid-Dollman 43 DINING Alois Dallmayr 23 Augustiner Grossgaststätte 12 Austernkeller 39 Biergarten Chinesischer Turm 18 Boettner 24 Buon Gusto Talamonti 29 Donisl 21 La Galleria 32 Gandl 42 Gasthaus Glockenbach 6 Gaststätte zum Flaucher 36 Georgenhof 15 Hunsinger’s Pacific 14 Hofbräuhaus am Platzl 27 Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom 19 Pfistermühle 33 Prinz Myshkin 20 Ratskeller München 22 Rossi 28 Spatenhaus 25 Tantris 17 Times Square Online Bistro 5 Zum Alten Markt 34
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V. shower-only bathrooms. and babysitting). www. AE. Hotel Exquisit $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt This The staff here is unusually pleasant and helpful.256 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hotel Bristol München $ –$$ Altstadt Built around 1960 and renovated in 2002. % 089/543-240. convenient place to stay in central Munich. Bathrooms are compact and have showers. Rates: 99€–150€ ($123–$187) double. Rates include breakfast. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 10-minute walk west on Bayerstrasse from south exit). 254. 80336 Mü For a quieter room. V. Fax: 089/5432-4111. family-friendly prices (including cribs and cots. Pettenkoferstrasse 3. with simple. V. 80335 München. 14 newly redecorated rooms have air-conditioning. % 089/551-9900. 254. Fax: 089/ 5519-9499. This pleasant. Fax: 089/ 5999-3994. Pettenkoferstrasse 2. later in this chapter). modern hotel is a congenial. The small bathrooms contain tiled showers. Rates include buffet breakfast. www. About half of them overlook a pretty garden. built in 1988 in the same vicinity as the Hotel Bristol München (see the preceding listing). comfortable furnishings. family-run hotel offers a central location and 55 comfortable rooms.bristol-munich. serene. The 56 rooms are fairly small. this efficient. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 3-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). . Tram: 19 to Herman-Lingg-Strasse (the stop across from the hotel). 67€–149€ ($84–$186) double with bathroom. Rates: 57€–86€ ($71–$107) double without bathroom. AE. www. MC. 254. request one that faces the courtyard. The hotel is attached to the famous Augustiner beer hall and restaurant (see the “Dining Out” section. is located on a quiet residential street in the heart of Munich. Rates include breakfast. Bayerstrasse 95. The hotel serves a generous breakfast buffet. Cheaper rooms with in-room showers but toilets down the hall also are available. See map p. adjoining rooms. See map p. Hotel Jedermann $ –$$$ Near Train Station Jedermann means “everyman. MC. and you can check your e-mail on the computer in the lobby. appealing hotel. The 50 rooms are large and comfortably furnished in an old-fashioned German style. % 089/5999-3902. Rates: 170€–250€ ($212–$312) double. most with roomy. See map p. 80336 München.” and that translates here into affordable. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 5-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse).hotel-jedermann. DC.hotel-exquisit.

Rates include breakfast. are white. 80538 München. Rates include breakfast. The hotel is a short walk from chic Maximilianstrasse and several major attractions. 254. The 25 distinctively decorated rooms have country antiques or a cool.hotel-olympic. The rooms are fairly large and have good bathrooms. and modern.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Hotel Olympic $$ Altstadt 257 Built as a private villa around 1900. V. comfy beds and lots of wood. located in the historic heart of Munich. and 64 guest rooms nicely decorated in a Bavarianchalet style with big. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor. Most of the midsize bathrooms come with shower only. Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel $ –$$$$ Bogenhausen This quietly charming boutique hotel on the east bank of the Isar has a lobby. www. The hotel is a ten-minute walk from Maximilianstrasse and the center of the city. this hotel has a high-ceilinged lobby and a large wood-paneled breakfast room that retain much of their original late-19th-century detailing. AE. % 089/416-050. and several gay bars and cafes are located nearby. Some of the rooms have small balconies. Fax: 089/21040977. some face a garden. Hans Sachs Strasse 4. See map p. Rooms in the rear on the third and fourth floors are quieter but also smaller than those facing the street. however. superclassy Mandarin www. % 089/231-890. MC. Rates: 150€–200€ ($187–$250) double. 81675 Munich. DC. % 089/225-533. 80469 München. elegant. 254. The level of service is exceptional. St. Rates include buffet breakfast. 254. minimalist. Mandarin Oriental $$$$ Altstadt The sophisticated.hotel-opera. Fax: 089/ 2318-9199. V. modern look.-Anna-Strasse). www. breakfast room. Fax: 089/ 4160-5466. occupies an ornate 19th-century building that was turned . Rates: 185€–265€ ($231–$331) double. stylish hotel is popular with gay travelers. then Tram 18 or 20 east to Hans Sachs Strasse. U-Bahn: Prinzregenten-Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Prinz Regenten Strasse and south on Ismaninger Strasse). Ismaninger Strasse 42–44. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 5-minute walk north on St. Rates: 90€–400€ ($112–$500) double. AE. The bathrooms have a tub and MC.prinzregent. The small. V. MC. Hotel Opera $$$$ Altstadt An early-20th-century Italianate building with a courtyard and garden houses this small.-Anna-Strasse 10. See map p. AE. See map p. The 38 rooms. boutique

Rates: 150€–190€ ($167–$237) double. 254. The hotel has a heated rooftop swimming pool. DC. See map p.258 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany into a hotel in 1990. Neuturmstrasse 1. No credit cards. DC. DISC. Runner-up hotels Am Markt $ Altstadt This popular budget hotel centrally located in the Altstadt has small. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 3-minute walk east from St. If you’re looking for a gulp of old-fashioned Bavarian ambience. AE. Fax: 089/ 2370-3800. and big marble-tiled bathrooms with tub-shower combinations outfit the 73 rooms and suites. See map p. www.Thierschstrasse 49.-Anna-Platz to Thierschstrasse). The Splendid-Dollmann’s owners moved the hotel (formerly located about a block away) to this building in 2003 and completely redid the interior. Fax: 089/23808365. DC. % 089/225-014. Sparkassenstrasse 10. 254. but not quite as chichi. www. Munich’s famous beer hall. 80331 Mü 254. Rates: 161€–230€ ($201–$281) double. most with a tub-and-shower combination. V. beautifully done boutique hotel. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (then a 3-minute walk south on Neuturmstrasse). the Splendid-Dollman is in the same league as Hotel Opera down the street. See map p. Biedermeier-era (early-19th-century) furnishings. 80538 München. this reconstructed “medieval” hotel is located across from the Hofbräuhaus. V. but they’re paneled in chestnut and alderwood and furnished with 19th-century reproduction antiques. 254. Heiliggeistrasse 6. Fax: 089/224-017. No two rooms are the same. Most of the rooms have terraces with panoramic views of the city. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). Splendid-Dollmann $$ –$$$$ Altstadt A MC. MC. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. The staff at this full-service hotel will arrange baby-sitting. for an additional 11€ ($13). many of which share bathrooms. The 167 rooms tend to be small. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE. . MC. You can enjoy breakfast. outside on a patio. AE. % 089/290-980. but the overall ambience is hard to beat. www. fine prints and engravings. V. and some are on the small side. Platzl Hotel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Owned by the Ayinger brewery. % 089/23-80-80. neat rooms. Each comes with a compact tiled inmunich. Fax: 089/222-539. The rooftop terrace provides a view of Munich’s steeples and spires. 80331 München. Rates: 375€–490€ ($469–$612) double. this is one of the best choices in Munich.mandarinoriental. www. 80331 München.platzl. % 089/237-030. See map p.

80333 München. 80336 München. See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus. See map Fax: 089/4804-4804.koenigswache. a large loaf of sausage eaten with freshly baked pretzels and mustard. 254. 254. or 089/21200. 254. Rosenheimerstrasse 15. is Bavaria’s answer to the north’s sauerbraten (pot. Karlsplatz 25. 254.hilton. served everywhere. 80335 Munich. heh. 254. Fax: 089/5513-6113. and moderately priced.or oven-roasted marinated beef). See map p. Fax: 089/5598-2333. soups. % 800-223-6800 in the U. www. www. www. Fax: 089/212-0906. % 089/551-360.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 259 $ $ $ $ Altstadt This full-service luxury hotel dates from 1841 and has individually decorated rooms with large bathrooms. comfortable rooms with compact tiled bathrooms. plus a health club with pool and sauna. If you want a refreshing nonalcoholic drink. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. well maintained. Königshof $ $ $ $ Altstadt This famous hotel boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant and has lushly decorated rooms with marble bathrooms. Steinheilstrasse 7. Promenadeplatz 2–6. www. apple juice mixed with sparkling water.S. Schweinbraten.bayerischerhof. Senefelderstrasse 12. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. U-Bahn: Theresienstrasse. See map p. Fax: 089/523-2114. ask for Apfelsaftschorle (ap-fell-saft-shor-luh). and beer halls that serve food. and snacks also are sold from outdoor stalls all around the Viktualienmarkt. Homemade dumplings are a specialty. . % 800-455-8667 in the 81667 Mü Dining Out Munich is a city that loves to eat — and eat this 90-room hotel is convenient. % 089/559-820. Tram: 19. Königswache $ $ Near Altstadt This 1960s-era hotel features modern. a braised loin of pork served with potato dumplings and rich brown gravy. Hotel Mark $ –$$ Near the Train Station Although not fancy.S. See map p. S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz. the München City Hilton lies on the east bank of the river and features well-designed rooms with nice bathrooms. small cafes and bistros. % 089/542-7570. and Canada or 089/48-040. Inexpensive sausages. München City Hilton $ $ $ Haidhausen An excellent choice for business travelers and families with children. and so are all kinds of sausages and Leberkäse. Filling the city are all kinds of fine restaurants. 80333 Munich.

See map p. Alois Dallmayr is the most famous delicatessen in Germany..–7 p. which owns the restaurant. Stollbergstrasse 11. % 089/213-5100. If service is not included. but the food is excellent. Reservations required.m. as is the fish soup. The shellfish platter with fresh oysters.m. scampi. V. The restaurant is a bit pretentious. Downstairs you can buy fine food products.–4 p.260 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany If a restaurant bill says Bedienung. A crowd always fills the restaurant at lunchtime.. The top restaurants Alois Dallmayr $$ –$$$ Altstadt DELICATESSEN/CONTINENTAL In business for almost 300 years. AE. Thurs–Fri 11:30 a. The house beer. MC. Open: Mon–Wed 11:30 a. U-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk north on Herrnstrasse and northeast on Stollbergstrasse. Open: Daily 5–11:30 p.m. Austernkeller $$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD At this “oyster cellar. served raw or in dishes such as oysters Rockefeller. The server takes the tip when you pay the bill.m. mussels. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Augustiner Grossgaststätte $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/GERMAN Located on Munich’s main pedestrians-only shopping street. 254. % 089/2318-3257. DC. which means that a service charge already has been added. MC. Specialties include dumpling soup and roast duck with red cabbage. U-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 5-minute walk east on Neuhauser Strasse). AE. . Menu offerings include fresh fish (salmon in champagne sauce is worth trying). smoked fish.m.m. MC. Open: Daily 9 a. Main courses: 15€–38€ ($18–$46). 254. round up the total to the nearest euro and add another euro. fixedprice menus 34€–48€ ($41–$58). Sat 9 a. 254. don’t leave the tip on the table. in addition to timehonored favorites such as Lobster Thermidor and shrimp grilled in the shell. sausages. Neuhauser Strasse 27. V. comes from one of Munich’s oldest breweries. this famous beer hall and restaurant has cavernous rooms and a genuinely gemütlich atmosphere.m. upstairs in the dining room you can order a tempting array of dishes. including herring.” you find the largest selection of oysters in town. Augustiner Brau. % 089/298-787. clams. and soups. See map p. and one of the most elegant. DC. round up the total to the nearest euro. and sea snails is a delicious way to start your meal.–8 p. See map p. Dienerstrasse 14–15.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2-minute walk north on Dienerstrasse). to midnight. Main courses: 20€–35€ ($25–$44). V.

MC. fixed-price dinner 28€–38€ ($39–$47). Pfisterstrasse 9. Buon Gusto Talamonti $$ Altstadt TUSCAN/ITALIAN This highly regarded Italian restaurant has two dining areas — a simple bistro overlooking an open kitchen and a more formal dining room — with the same menu items and prices. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a.–3 p.m. the lunch menu leans toward Italian. The various risottos (rice dishes) are especially good. Hochbrückenstrasse 3.–1 a. Weinstrasse 1. and 6 p.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Boettner $$$$ Altstadt INTERNATIONAL 261 When this century-old restaurant moved to its new location. The desserts are sumptuous. and seasonal dishes with white truffles. Try the tris di Pasta (three pastas with vegetables). MC. pasta with truffles. DC. Reservations recommended. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). 254. in a 16thcentury building in the heart of Munich. Weisswürste. AE. An accordion player provides music in the evening. See map p.m. to midnight. the little white sausages famous in Munich. Donisl $ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL Munich’s oldest beer hall dates from 1715 and provides diners and drinkers with a relaxed. DC. MC. spaghetti carbonara. % 089/29-62-64. have long been a specialty. or the roasted lamb with potatoes. V. See map p. % 089/221-210. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 1-minute walk north on Weinstrasse). Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. AE. Main courses: 17€–42€ ($21–$52). Open: Daily 9 a. The beers come from Munich’s HackerPschorr Brewery. The standard menu offers traditional Bavarian food and weekly specials.m. AE. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Tal and northeast on Hochbrückenstrasse). comfortable atmosphere. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Reservations recommended.50€–28€ ($11–$39). DC. to midnight. The cooking is light and refined. In summer you can dine in the garden area out front. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5minute walk north on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Pfisterstrasse).m. with a French influence. but at night the booking becomes more traditionally . lobster stew in a cream sauce. % 089/296-383. V. fixed-price menus 25€–36€ ($31–$45). fixed-price lunch 8. Special offerings include herb-crusted lamb. 254. V. but several traditional Bavarian dishes also are on the menu. it brought its wood-paneled interior with it. The atmosphere is light-hearted and fun. Reservations required.m.m. See map p. Gandl $$ –$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN/FRENCH At this attractive and lively neighborhood bistro. 254. ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and herbs. beef filet.

you sit on benches at bare wood tables as a brass band plays. Upstairs are a number of smaller.m. Eat on the terrace if the weather’s nice. U-Bahn: Lehel (the restaurant is less than a block from the St. Grilled meats such as lamb and steak are popular. mostly organic. such as spaghetti carbonara. 254. For dessert. MC. AE. V. Bavarian game dishes include Rehpfeffer (venison) with egg Spätzle (German pasta) or tagliatelle with venison ragout. Wines are mostly from Italy. U-Bahn: Universität (then a 10minute walk west on Schelling Strasse and north on Turkenstrasse to the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Georgenstrasse). % 089/39-31-01. to midnight. 254. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. 35€–70€ ($44–$87) dinner. Reservations recommended. % 089/534-043.–1 a. MC. See map p. 254. Main courses: 8€–18€ ($10–$22). France. V. MC. The food is .m. too.m. grilled filet of salmon in saffron sauce. and ravioli. sit outside under the chestnut trees. % 089/2916-2525.262 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany French. In the Schwemme (tap room) on the ground floor. Open: Daily 11 a. Fredrichstrasse 1. See map p. but you’ll typically find fare such as entrecote with arugula salad. quieter dining rooms. Fixed-price menu: 31€ ($39). but if the weather is nice.-Anna Platz exit). The beer is Hofbrau. U-Bahn: Goetheplatz (then a 10-minute walk south on Lindwurm and east on Kapuzinerstrasse to the corner of Maistrasse). The vegetables come from local farms. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 2 p. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). The Italian dishes include homemade pastas. which is served by the mass equal to about a quart. Georgenhof $$ Schwabing GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This pleasant Schwabing eatery has a comfortably rustic interior with a wood-fired grill. and Austria. Hofbräuhaus am Platzl $$ Altstadt GERMAN A boisterous atmosphere prevails in Munich’s huge and world-famous beer hall. gnocchi. Gasthaus Glockenbach $$$$ South of Train Station MODERN EUROPEAN This elegant but unpretentious restaurant serves imaginative.m. Main courses: 23€–30€ ($29–$37). The menu reflects seasonal specialty Spargel (asparagus) in May and June and regional favorites.-Anna Platz 1. too. nouvelle French-German-Bavarian cuisine and has earned a Michelin star. or lamb in red-wine sauce. The menu offerings change with the seasons and typically include venison and pheasant in autumn and lamb and veal dishes in spring. and 7–10 p.m. try the simple but delicious Bavarian cream with strawberries. St. Dinner offerings change often. V. Closed 1 week at Christmas. Kapuzinerstrasse 29. The big gourmet salad with various meats and pâtés is delicious. AE. a big courtyard is on this level. Fixedprice menus: 20€–45€ ($25–$56) lunch. See map p.

Thailand (lemon grass).m. fresh ginger. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). MC. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 3-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). this is the coziest and friendliest of Munich’s local restaurants. Main courses: 110€–40€ ($25–$50). Nürnberger Schweinwurstl mit Kraut (pork sausages with cabbage. MC.m. fried monkfish. Frauenplatz 9. See map p. Main courses include bouillabaisse with aioli (a fish soup with a spicy mayonnaise). Hot dogs will never taste the same again after your kid has tried one of these delectable little sausages. and 5 p. No credit cards. No credit cards. The menu emphasizes fresh fish prepared according to classic French cooking techniques but using spices from Malaysia (coconut milk). Main courses: 21€–24€ ($26–$30). The tuna carpaccio with sliced plum. roast duck with lentils. Closed Aug. cold melon soup.m. Sparkassenstrasse 11.–1 a. Closed Aug 10–30. V.m. AE. but you may find main courses such as mushroom tartar. See map p. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. Open: Daily 9 a. to midnight. Hunsinger’s Pacific $$ –$$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL/ASIAN This restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 10-minute walk northeast on Oskar-von-Miller Strasse to the entrance on Max-Joseph-Strasse).m. See map p. % 089/290-1360. You sit in carved wooden chairs at shared tables. 254. veal with arugula. Fixed-price dinner: 48€–54€ ($60–$67). to midnight. Open: Daily 10 a.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 263 heavy and hearty with a menu that includes Weisswürste and several other sausages. V. 254. Am Platzl 9. 254. Reservations recommended. Everything on the menu is translated into English. and India (curry).m. Spanferkel (roast suckling pig). or braised crab with polenta. DC. Schweinbraten (roasted pork).m. Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom $ Altstadt BAVARIAN A short walk from Marienplatz. % 089/297-995. See map p. homemade gnocchi with duck and figs. and lime is a delicious starter. across from the cathedral (Dom). AE.–2:30 p. La Galleria $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN The roster of dishes at this appealing Italian restaurant changes seasonally.m. . U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Bräuhausstrasse). % 089/295-264. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. 254. and 6–10:30 p. a specialty from Nuremberg) is the dish to try. and stuffed cabbage rolls. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to Frauenplatz beside the Frauenkirche). Japan (wasabi). Maximiliansplatz 5. % 089/5502-9741. and turbot in chili and ginger sauce.

and white walls with wood-paneled ceiling. Pfistermühle 4. DC.m. For dessert try vanilla custard with fresh berry sauce. V. macrobiotic dishes. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). red-tiled floor. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk southwest on Rindermarkt and Oberanger and north on Sack Strasse to Hackenstrasse). in the Rathaus.–11:30 p. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Pfisterstrasse).m. and vegetarian Involtini (stuffed rollups).264 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pfistermühle $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN This old-fashioned. Come for roast meats served with fresh vegetables. soups. Try spaghetti alle pomodoro (with tomatoes) or penne ai formaggi (with cheese). this well-liked Italian restaurant across from the famous Hofbräuhaus is an inviting place to dine. vine-covered restaurant housed in a converted mill serves hearty portions of traditional Bavarian food in a series of charmingly decorated dining rooms or at outdoor tables. Rossi $$ Altstadt ITALIAN With its columns. The daily special pasta may be something more exotic. The menu showcases regional dishes but also includes some vegetarian choices. or grilled steak (Rindfilet). where you find good. Main courses: 8€–22€ ($10–$27). You can also get a good pizza. AE. MC. Open: Daily 10 a. See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (the Rathaus is on the square). % 089/265-596. In the Platzl Hotel. Hackenstrasse 2. V. 254. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight. The simply prepared pastas (Teigwaren in German) are always good. woody interior with carved wooden chairs and tables and painted ceilings. you may want to try this popular vegetarian restaurant near Marienplatz.m. Asian-inspired vegetarian entrees. and pizzas generally are excellent. Reservations recommended. AE. Main courses: 16€–24€ ($20–$30). % 089/219-9890. MC. AE. % 089/2370-3800.m. veal piccata with lemon sauce. The menu includes freshly made salads. like fettucine with tartufo (truffles). 254. 254. Open: Daily 11 a. See map p. Marienplatz 8. or the fish platter served with ragout and noodles. . MC. The casseroles. Toast the end of your Bavarian meal with a glass of wild-cherry schnapps. Prinz Myshkin $ Altstadt VEGETARIAN If sausages and meat dishes are getting to you. inexpensive food and wine. Ratskeller München $ –$$ Altstadt BAVARIAN A Ratskeller is a cellar restaurant in a Rathaus (town hall). fresh trout accompanied by chive-flecked sour cream and a potato pancake. Ratskeller München has a dark. Reservations recommended.–1 a. V. See map p.

to midnight. V. MC. Main courses: 7€–14€ ($9–$17).m. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 3 p. V. Open: Mon–Fri 11:30 a. Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. AE. MC. Reservations required.–1 a. The quality varies here.–3 p. Sat 6 p. AE. where you can order simple dishes such as pork cutlets. DC. Residenzstrasse 12. tagliatelle. % 089/550-8800. % 089/290-7060. V. The choice of dishes is limited and changes often. V. Wash down your meal with the restaurant’s own beer. baked Camembert.–1 a. to midnight. which you can rent for 2. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Reservations recommended. in the main train station. high-ceilinged. Breakfast: 4€–10€ ($5–$13). Bräuhausstrasse 6. AE.m. Open: Daily 7:30 a. including pork and sausages. and 6 p. DC. See map p. Fixed-price dinner: 120€–140€ ($150–$175). See map p. % 089/227-735. AE. red cabbage and cheese Spätzle. and I’d recommend it more for a snack between e-mails than a real meal. Bayerstrasse 10 A. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk north on Diener Strasse and Residenzstrasse). takes up one side of this bright. Main courses: 7€–18€ ($9–$22).m.m. Fixedprice lunch: 62€–92€ ($77–$115). this sophisticated Michelin-starred restaurant has a modernist interior that reminds some of an airport lounge. 254. The bistro also has a section for noncomputerized dining. Spaten-Franziskaner-Bier. With one of the fixed-price multi-course menus you may begin with a yellowfin tuna followed by monkfish with lobster raviolis. Spatenhaus $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This well-known beer restaurant with big windows overlooking the opera house serves hearty portions of typical Bavarian food at reasonable prices. and east on Johan-Fichte-Strasse).m. and 6:30 p. north on Leopold Strasse. Closed public holidays and annual holidays in Jan and May. MC.m. U-/S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk west on Tal and northeast on Hochbrücken to Bräuhausstrasse). technobistro in the main train station.m.m. .50€ ($ 3. 254. The Bayerische Teller (Bavarian plate) comes loaded with various meats. sautéed foie gras with plums.– 12:30 a.10) per quarter-hour. Tantris $$$$ Schwabing FRENCH/GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A famed culinary mecca since 1972. Open: Daily 9:30 a. Times Square Online Bistro $ Train Station CONTINENTAL/SNACKS A bank of online computers. and finish with a hazelnut soufflé with marinated figs. medallions of venison with mushrooms. and spinach strudel.m. Main courses: 14€–26€ ($17–$32). U-Bahn: Dietlindenstrasse (then a 10-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse.m. Schwabing. 254. MC. % 089/361-9590.m.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 265 See map p.

m. you’ll usually find pretzels on the table. quaff Munich’s famous brews. The chef makes a great Tafelspitz (boiled beef). For a glass or mug of beer. drink. a Brezel (bray-zuhl. it’s open Friday. to 1 a. is located in the Englischer Garten at the foot of the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). tables are set up outside. Zum Alten Markt $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This snug. or accordionists sometimes add to the jovial atmosphere.m. depending on its size. not-too-salty crust and a soft thick interior. near the zoo.75–$8).m.m. but keep in mind that you’ll be charged up to 5€ ($6. You may begin with homemade cream of carrot soup or black-truffle tortellini in cream sauce. Main courses: 12€–20€ ($15–$25). November to April. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 10 a. and Sunday from 10 a. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south to Dreifaltifkeitsplatz on the east side of the Viktualienmarkt). Munich pretzels are delicious.266 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Brezeln und bier (pretzels and beer) In Munich. In summer.m. to 9 p. with a golden. where you can sit outdoors. Bus: 52). Isarauen 8 (% 089/723-2677. chewy. The best beer gardens Munich is famed for its beer gardens (Biergartens). The food. and order hearty Bavarian food at reasonable prices. Salty pretzels and large white radishes (Radl) are traditional accompaniments to the beer. pretzel) is the traditional accompaniment to ein Glas helles (ine glahss hel-les. and atmosphere are much the same in the two places that I recommend. zither players. friendly eatery is located on a tiny square just off the Viktualienmarkt. ߜ Biergarten Chinesischer Turm. ߜ Gaststätte zum Flaucher. one of Munich’s largest and most popular beer gardens. A simple meal generally costs around 10€ ($13). to midnight. % 089/299-995.50€ ($3. No credit cards. . Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight (food served until 10 p. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 11 a. a glass of light wheat beer).). expect to pay 3€ to 6. Englischer Garten 3 (% 089/3838720.m. an easy-to-find landmark. has tables set in a tree-shaded garden overlooking the Isar River. Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 3. U-Bahn: Giselastrasse).25) for every Brezel you eat. Oom-pah-pah bands. Munich’s big outdoor produce market. In the beer halls. You can also order classic dishes such as roast duck with applesauce or roast suckling pig. Saturday.

To make the most of your time here. Give yourself at least an hour just to cover the highlights. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum) East of Altstadt This museum contains three vast floors of sculpture. See map p.50€ ($7) adults. which contains works in wood by the great sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531).m. The museum is so immense that you can easily spend several days exploring the two floors of exhibits. ceramics. and beautiful places to stroll. fascinating architecture. Free tours highlighting various parts of the vast collection take place on Tuesday at 6:30 p. and lovely parks and gardens.25). 4€ ($5) students.” and the nearly 800 paintings on display in this enormous building represent the greatest European artists of the 14th through 18th centuries. decide which paintings you particularly want to see.m.–5 p. Barer Strasse 27. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. (Tues until 10 p. . The objects on view are among Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. for the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl and Augustiner Grossgastätte. The museum also contains a famous collection of Christmas Nativity cribs from Bavaria. Closed major holidays. Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) Museum Quarter Pinakothek means “painting gallery. For locations.m.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 267 For two of the best beer halls in Munich. Admission: Tues–Sat 5. offering several world-class museums. % 089/2380-5216.m.). you’ll have to make some difficult decisions. pick up a museum guide at the information desk. see the listings under “The top restaurants. free for children 14 and younger Sun 1€ ($1. furniture. Enjoying Munich is easy. many fine churches and historic buildings. 268.m. punch the corresponding number into your audio guide to hear a full commentary. Tyrol. see the “Central Munich Attractions” map in this chapter. Sightseeing in Munich Munich is one of the great sightseeing cities in Germany. folk art. A major highlight is the Riemenschneider Room. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Munich is a city bursting with first-rate museums. and textiles. but if your time is limited. and Friday at 3 p. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). A free audio tour in English is available in the lobby. and then spend at least two to three hours. When you see a painting you want to know more about. painting. and southern Italy. in addition to clocks and scientific instruments.” earlier in this chapter.

Goethestrasse Schillerstrasse Landwehrstrasse Mathildenstra spitalstr . 1 Zieb Sch Hes tras se Aug u i S U sten land str. Ho t Joseph 9 Se li nd ng ers tr. Pettenko fer- strasse Hamburg Berlin G E R MAN Y Frankfurt 0 strasse MatthäusBeethoven. Schwanthalerstrasse Herzog spitals tr.2 mi 0. Neuh -Wilhelm-Strasse zog Her auser 8 strass e Sonnenstr.268 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Central Munich Attractions Alte Pinakothek 5 Altes Rathaus 16 Antikensammlungen 7 Asamkirche 9 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 20 Deutsches Museum 10 Englischer Garten 21 Frauenkirche 17 Glockenspiel 14 Glyptothek 6 Marienplatz 14 Michaelskirche 8 Münchner Stadtmuseum 12 Neue Pinakothek 3 Neues Rathaus 15 Olympiapark 1 Olympiaturm 1 Peterskirche 13 Pinakothek der Moderne 4 Residenz 19 Schloss Nymphenburg 2 Spielzeugmuseum 15 Theatinerkirche 18 Viktualienmarkt 11 NYMPHENBURG Amalienburg 26 Badenburg Pavilion 22 Magdalenenklause 25 Marstallmuseum 27 Pagodenburg 24 Porzellan-ManufakturNymphenburg 30 Porzellansammlung 28 Schloss 29 Schlosspark 23 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn U-Bahn eimers trasse s tr. ter str . Karlsplatz Adolf-Kolping-Str.2 km Blu Tha lkirc h Jah U ST. asse ellin The resie gstr n- U s tra sse s-St rass e ens Gab e lsbe Schleis sh rass e rger stra Arc isst 2 5 asse Brie nne r Str 6 Königsplatz lstra uste Seid Aug Meis U erst rass e asse nstr sse Kar lstra sse se tras 7 Karolinenplatz sse Ma ens se rstra rsst ras Luis Ar nu lfstra sse S Hauptbahnhof U Elise GARTEN nstr asse Bahnhofplatz Prielm aye rstr asse i U Schütze nstr . STEFAN’S STEFAN CEMETERY ns tra Munich sse 0 ners se me nstrasse Mü llerstrasse Unte rer A U nger Sendlingertorplatz Bare rstra sse h-S tras se sse Luis 3 4 Dachauers trasse Ma x-Jo sep sse .Nussbaum kirche platz e s as str urm w d Lin tras 0. ALTER BOTANISCHER e Sophienstr as s Bare Lenbachplatz U Maximiliansplatz Maxb S urgst rasse Senefelderstrasse Bayerstr. Sonnenstr.

rds Ste ins m Blu e tr.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 269 Königinstr ass e stra ss e Blüte nstra sse Akad emies trasse Ada lber tstra sse NYMPHENBURG Schac strass ke 24 Kleiner See 25 30 gstr Tür Sch ken University Prof. ibr Co rn ück eli str us as se en se as str .. e sse nh eim er . Scharnagl -R se Str ass Odeons. asse U Nymphenburger Kanal Schloss 29 28 26 27 ensch tr Hir rtens ga ellin 23 asse SCHLOSSPARK Am resie alie The nstr Grosser See stras nstr a sse se 22 Kaulbac hstrasse Zuccalistrasse Richildenstrasse Ludw ig t r a s se Kön igin s 21 tras se ens Schönfelds -vo n Türk le -Mil r. fing i S U 13 12 al Isartorplatz 15 Th. str inge nne rstra s sse Prinz rege nten st nstra Galeri estra Theatermuseum nf e che Ler ld s sse tra ar ss e Wagmüller str. Frauenplatz Die ing erstr . ers üll tra Inn sse ere Baaderplatz Ludwigsbrücke Ke Ro se ller str Reichenbachstrasse Ze a r pp lin str a Lille nstr sse asse Hochs trasse sse ass sse .Ring trasse Strasse ENGLISCHER GARTEN Von-de r-Tann Osk Brie ing K. e rs U tr a ss e orstra Promenadeplatz Cuvilliés Theater stras hab Christophstr. ns 11 ar do Frauenstrasse Ka e Zw nal t schs T h i er ass e rfs tra sse Viktualienmarkt Westenriederstrasse S er-R Jüdisches Museum München Maxim Knöbelstra sse ilians trasse Ste 17 Museum für Völkerkunde Thiersch Max Nationaltheater JosephPlatz Am Pfis Kosttorters Platz tras se Ma str. ide nm tr. -W Marienplatz 14 Im T imm 16 Rum Is fo tr. aul tiner ras s 18 Residenz 19 Liebigst Thea Kar rsta Reitm ay rasse d-F llst Wein str.-An na-Pfa rrstr. rns Maxim ilians brück e stra sse r W Is en Wi er S tra sse sis Gärtnerplatz z Fra Klen un ho fe rst r tra es Mo ras M tr. ner Kau str. Ba ad a Erh ers Is rdt tra str ass e Deutsches Museum 10 S ar e Bürkleinstr.Vete rinär Huberplatz str. St.HOFGARTEN platz Hofg U arten strass e se dst ras se e Oett Un söl rasse 20 er- Residenzstr.

Open: Daily 9 a. 268.75) students and seniors. on the east by Lerchenfeldstrasse. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 10minute walk north on Wagmüllerstrasse and east on Prinzregentenstrasse). this is the largest science and technology museum in the world and one of the most popular attractions in Germany. the first airliner (1919). are popular nude-sunbathing spots. or at Hertie. hilltop temple called the Monopteros. you see a biplane flown by the Wright brothers in 1908. You can wander for hours along the tree-shaded walks.50€ ($11) adults. Prinzregentenstrasse 3.270 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. papermaking.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. 268. Bounded on the south by Von-der-Tann Strasse and Prinzregentenstrasse. A giant beer garden occupies the plaza near the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). and how steam engines. kid-friendly museum has interactive exhibits and an English-speaking staff to answer questions and demonstrate glass blowing. . The banks of the Eisbach. free for children younger than 18. In the Aeronautics section. 268. % 089/211-2401. and historical musical instruments work. and Bugatti vehicles. and an assortment of military aircraft. Opel. or less-expensive fare from the Viktualienmarkt (the produce market described later in this section).). Sun 1€ ($1. This hands-on. 3€ ($3. Englischer Garten (English Garden) Northwest of Altstadt Munich’s famous city park is one of the largest (922 acres) and most beautiful city parks in Europe.–5 p.m. 3€ ($3. Admission: Tues–Sat 5€ ($6. with a collection of luxury Daimler. Its huge collection of scientific and technological treasures includes the first electric locomotive (1879). The park is a lovely place to have a picnic. Tram: 18 to Deutsches Museum (the tram stops outside the museum). See map p. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 10-minute walk northeast through the Hofgarten to the park). constructed in the 19th century. and admire the view of Munich’s Altstadt from the round. Deutsches Museum (German Museum of Science and Technology) Museumsinsel Located on the Museumsinsel.25) adults.m.” earlier in this chapter). Spending half a day here is easy. Closed major holidays.–5 p. pumps.m.). an island in the Isar River. the first automobile (1886). the department store across from the Hauptbahnhof. You can pick up expensive picnic goodies at Alois Dallmayr (see “Dining Out. and the laboratory bench at which the atom first was split (1938). the Englischer Garten also is the oldest public park in the world. the first diesel engine (1897). Museumsinsel 1. (Thurs until 8 p. streams. See map p. Admission: 8. Established in 1789.25). on the west by Königinstrasse. 1866). and lake. (Wed until 8 p. the first electric generator (called a dynamo.75) students and children 6–16. The Automobile department in the basement is noteworthy.m.m. the stream that runs through the park. % 089/21791.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 271 Deutsches Museum Ceramics Glass Technical Toys Paper Writing & Printing Second Floor Ground Floor Aeronautics Glassblowing Special Exhibition Textile PhotoTechnology graphy New Energy Techniques Fraunhofer Room Brander Room Hall of Fame History of Museum Industrial Chemistry Physics Optics First Floor AeroSailing Wherry nautics Atomic & Nuclear Physics Telecommunications Musical Instruments Chemistry Oil & Natural Surface Gas Mining Turbines Metallurgy Machine Tools Welding & Soldering Ground Floor Mineral Power Machinery Resources Entrance Hall Marine Navigation Electrical Power Hydraulic Engineering Rescue Cruiser Wind Mill Vehicle Engineering Courtyard Museum Shop Roads & Bridges Tunneling Tower Railways Model Mountain Railways Railways Oil & Gas Mining Ore Dressing Power Machinery Basement Modern Mining Motor Vehicles Marine Navigation Hydraulic Engineering Motor Vehicles .

In the center of the Altstadt.75) adults.m.50€ ($ 3. 0. and the view from the tower is spectacular.m. Brightly painted mechanical figures reenact two famous events from Munich’s history: the knights’ tournament during the 1586 wedding feast of Wilhelm V and Renate of Lorraine. On the north side of Marienplatz is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall). 15th-century Gothic tower.m. first performed in 1683 to express gratitude for the end of the plague.m.m. to 5:30 p. Open: Church Sat–Thurs 7 a.–5 p. Admission is 2.10) for adults. 1. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to the church).–7 p. and 5€ ($ 6.50€ ($ 1. because many of the city’s attractions are clustered in the vicinity.m.50€ ($2) students..m. You can take an elevator to the top of the Rathaus’s tower for a good view of the city center.. The rebuilt church is strikingly simple and dignified. See map p. to 7 p. to 7 p. tower Apr–Oct daily 10 a. 268.25) for a family. completed in the late 15th century.90) for adults. Admission: Church free. Marienplatz Altstadt This large pedestrian-only square in the heart of the Altstadt also is the old heart of Munich. Inside is the Spielzeugmuseum (% 089/294-001). built in 19thcentury Gothic style and famous for its Glockenspiel (see the sidebar “Watching the Glockenspiel” in this chapter).75 (95¢) for children 6 to 18.m. and 9 p. Fri 7 a. The tower is open Monday to Friday from 9 a. 0. one level below. Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady) Altstadt Munich’s largest church. Chances are you’ll return here again and again. Admission is 1.m. tower 3€ ($3.m. See map p.m.272 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Watching the Glockenspiel The best show on Marienplatz takes place at 11 a. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. during the holiday seasons) when the 43-bell Glockenspiel (carillon) on the 280foot central spire of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) goes through its paces. To the right of the Neues Rathaus stands the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall). open daily from 10 a. Frauenplatz 12. a historical toy collection.m. the Schäfflertanz (Coopers’ Dance).m. daily (also at noon and 5 p. and..m. was a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of World War II (WWII).–6 p. 268. .m. with its plain. Only its landmark twin onion-domed towers from 1525 remained standing. % 089/290-0820. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.50 (65¢) for children.

The museum’s one must-see exhibit is the Moriskentanzer (Moorish dancers). 268. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street).25). Admission: Tues–Sat 5. % 089/260-4828.–7 p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Rindermarkt and Oberanger). A tour of the highlights takes a couple of hours. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. Closed major holidays. % 089/2332-2370. Artists whose works are on view include Thomas Gainsborough. and Paul Gauguin. Neue Pinakothek Museum Quarter Housed in a postmodern building from 1981. is known locally as Old Pete.m.–6 p.75 (95¢) students. free on Sun.50€ ($2) adults. featuring ten carved and brightly painted 15th-century wooden figures. tower 1. You get a splendid view from the top. remodeled during the baroque era. (Wed until 10 p. See map p. You find a cafeteria in the museum’s main courtyard. Not quite as daunting as the nearby Alte Pinakothek. Children love the third-floor collection of marionettes and hand puppets from around the world and the gallery of fairground art. Vincent van Gogh. The second-floor photo museum traces the early history of the camera back to 1839. The interior of the church contains baroque-era sculptures.m.50€ ($7) adults. Open: Wed–Mon 10 a. but you have to climb (and climb and climb) 306 steps to see it. 268. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. which includes the oldest-known carousel horses. 268. 0. See map p. this museum is a showcase for 19th-century German and European art. dating from 1820.50) students and children 6–15. . Peter’s Church) Altstadt The bell tower of this 13th-century Gothic church. Mundita. this museum still contains plenty to see.–5 p. frescoes. (Nov–Mar until 6 p.m.). 2€ ($2.m. starting right around 1800.). See map p. Caspar David Friedrich.m.m. Rindermarkt 1. Barer Strasse 27 (across Theresienstrasse from the Alte Pinakothek). Admission: Church free.m. Sun 1€ ($1. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.-Jakobs-Platz 1.). among many others. 4€ ($5) students and seniors.m.m.–6 p. Joshua Reynolds. St.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2minute walk south on Rindermarkt). William Turner. Peterskirche (St.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Münchner Stadtmuseum (Munich City Museum) Altstadt 273 This museum chronicles Munich’s history and the everyday lives of its residents. (Nov–Mar until 7 p.m. % 089/2380-5195. Sun 10 a. an audio tour in English is free with your admission. and a bizarre relic in the second chapel (on the left): the gem-studded skeleton of St. who stares at you with two false eyes in her skull. Francesco Goya.

m. The must-sees are the Residenz Museum. and others.50) students and children. the Wittelsbachs’ summer residence.m.. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. is one of the most sophisticated and beautiful palaces in Europe. Gris. Artisans painstakingly restored the Residenz. 268. Open: Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a.– 6 p. displaying major 20th-century classics by internationally known artists including Matisse.–4 p.274 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of Modern Art.75) adults. with arts and furnishings displayed in some 130 rooms. % 089/290-671. Giacometti. the Museum of Architecture. and the Graphische Sammlung (Graphics Collection). Closed major holidays. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (the palace is southeast across the square). laid out between 1613 and 1617. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museums are across the street). Admission: Combined ticket for Residenz Museum and Schatzkammer 9€ ($11) adults. which was almost totally destroyed in WWII. From central Munich. you . with three centuries’ worth of accumulated treasures. % 089/2380-5360. 2€ ($2. Picasso.m. the rulers of Bavaria.m. Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) Nymphenburg Schloss Nymphenburg.m. Guided tours (in German): Daily 10 a. 268. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (the palace is on the same square as the theater). Residenz (Royal Palace) Altstadt This magnificent building was the official residence of the Wittelsbach family. Architecture. 5€ ($6.m. free for children younger than 10. opened in September 2002. In 1702. free admission on Sun. and the Altes Residenztheater. Kandinsky. Elector Max Emanuel decided to enlarge the original Italianate villa by adding four large pavilions connected by arcaded passageways. Max-Joseph-Platz 3. Kirchner. The other collections include the Neue Sammlung (Craft and Design Collection). Residenztheater 3€ ($3. and Palladian. a stunning rococo theater. Ernst. You find four collections housed inside.m. The palace was begun in 1664 and took more than 150 years to complete. Admission: 9€ ($11) adults. the Schatzkammer (Treasury).). from 1385 to 1918. See map p. Added to and rebuilt through the centuries. including German and Florentine Renaissance. Barer Strasse 40. Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. Design) Museum Quarter Munich’s newest museum. 8€ ($10) students and children.m. You enter both the Residenz Museum and the Schatzkammer from Max-Joseph-Platz on the south side of the palace. The most important is the Staatsgalerie moderner Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art). the Pinakothek der Moderne. On the north side of the palace is the Italianate Hofgarten (Court Garden). (Thurs–Fri until 8 p.–5 p.m. See map p. and 12:30 p. the palace is a compendium of various architectural styles.25) for students 10–18.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 275 The Residenz Hofgartenstrasse State Collection of Egyptian Art Fourshaft Room Court Garden Wing Stone Room Wing Trier Wing Festival Hall Building Entrance Hall Bavarian Academy of Science Battle Room Wing To w Chapel Courtyard er B ui ld in g Hercules Chest Ladies’ Floor Coin Collection Imperial Courtyard Apothecaries’ Courtyard Ground Floor Nibelungen Rooms 1 Theater Floor Imperial Hall or r Corrid Theatine Stone Room Trier Corridor Trier Room Papal Rooms Rooms Upper Floor 1 Entrance to Residenz Museum denz Old Resi ße Antler Corridor Grotto Courtyard Ancestoral Gallery Royal Building Courtyard Old Foyer Residenz Foyer Theater Fountain Courtyard Apothecaries’ Wing Wittelsbach Cabinet Garden Fountain Ruins of All Saints Courtyard Church Kitchen Courtyard m riu ua iq nt A Re si de nz Marstallplatz st ra t Vestmen Rooms Treasury Royal Building Max-Joseph-Platz New Residenz Theater New Hercules Room Charlotte Corridor tt lo ar Ch en t ak tr ’s st ür rf Ku g in sW om Ro Rich Ludwig I’s Rooms Porcelain Gallery Battle Rooms .

Porzellan-Manufaktur-Nymphenburg. the Pagodenburg. and the Magdalenenklause (Hermitage). has a sales room and exhibition center open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a. decorated in the Chinese style that was all the rage in the 18th century. Every surface appears to be loaded with dollops of fanciful white stuccowork. You need at least half a day to explore the buildings and grounds. swirling stuccowork. this church is Munich’s finest example of Italian baroque architecture. To the south of the palace buildings. a group of Roman Catholic clergy. Fluted columns lining the center aisle support the arched ceiling of the nave. The church was begun by Italian architects in 1663 and was completed by German court architects about a century later. In the English-style park. decorated in a vibrant splash of rococo colors and stuccowork. to 5 p. The dome above the transept is decorated with an ornate gallery of large statues. Nördliches Schlossrondell 8 (% 089/179-1970). or 17 to Romanplatz (then a 10-minute walk west to the palace entrance). in the rectangular block of low structures that once housed the court stables. Open: Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. Admission: Palace grounds free. % 089/179-080. The beauties include Schöne Münchnerin (Lovely Munich Girl) and a portrait of Lola Montez. 268. the raven-haired dancer whose affair with Ludwig caused a scandal.m. including those used by Ludwig II. meant to be a retreat for prayer and solitude.m. Schloss Nymphenburg 1. full of quiet meadows and forested paths. stretching all the way to the so-called grand cascade at the far end of the formal. you find Ludwig I’s famous Gallery of Beauties with paintings by J.–4 p. . you come first to the Great Hall.m. entrance across from the Marstallmuseum) contains superb pieces of 18th-century porcelain. and wall paintings. A canal runs through 500-acre Schlosspark. gilded coaches and sleighs. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection.m. free for children younger than 7. you find the Badenburg Pavilion.m. built in 1734 as a hunting lodge for Electress Amalia. Tram: 12. Dark wooden pews and a canopied pulpit provide the only color in the all-white interior. Badenburg and Magdalenenklause closed Oct 16–Mar 30. Inside. Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. French-style gardens. 16. Theatinerkirche (Church of the Theatines) Altstadt Named for the Theatines. Stieler (1827–1850). See map p.. Prettiest of all the buildings in the park is Amalienburg. admission to all attractions 10€ ($13) adults. the interior salons are a riot of flamboyant colors. is the Marstallmuseum.m. 8€ ($10) seniors. 8km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. A factory on the grounds of Schloss Nymphenburg still produces the famous Nymphenburg porcelain. with an 18th-century swimming pool. including miniature porcelain copies of masterpieces in the Alte Pinakothek.276 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany can easily reach the palace by tram in about 20 minutes. In the south pavilion.–6 p. where you find a dazzling collection of ornate.

antike-am-koenigsplatz. Finding more cool things to see and do Munich has many important churches and museums in addition to those described in the preceding sections. 268.50). water. See map p. Königsplatz 1 (% 089/599-888-30. wine merchants. Bounded by Prälat-Zistl-Strasse on the west. fish sellers. You can buy food at the market stalls and eat it in the beer garden if you buy a beer.50) for adults. is a remarkable rococo church built by the Asam brothers between 1733 and 1746.25) for everyone. from a pre-Mycenaean version carved in 3000 B.m.50€ ($3) for students and seniors.m.m. on Sunday. Wed). and dozens of produce stalls.mwn. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3. Theatinerstrasse 22. and 1:30–4:30 p. (until 8 p. In an area the size of a city block. Sat 10 a. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 2-minute walk south on Theatinerstrasse). Admission: Free. Heiliggeiststrasse on the east.m. The Viktualienmarkt has a large beer garden. or other beverage at the beer-garden drink stand. Saturdays.. Most of the permanent stands open at 6 a.m.–3 p. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.50€ ($4. from a mussel shell to large Greek and Etruscan vases. At the Viktualienmarkt.m. . Multicolored marbles. ߜ The Asamkirche. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). and Tal on the 268. you find two dozen butcher shops.m.m. Open: Mon–Fri 10 a. The museum’s five main-floor halls house more than 650 Greek vases.m. A joint ticket to the Museum of Antiquities and the neighboring Glyptothek (included later in this list) is 6€ ($7. U-/S-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor). % 089/210-6960. and stay open until 6 p. the Viktualienmarkt has been serving Munich residents for nearly 200 years and is a wonderful place to stroll and sniff and take in the scene.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 277 See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk southeast through the square). close to Marienplatz. a whole section of bakeries stocked with dozens of different kinds of Bavarian breads and rolls.m. www. Viktualienmarkt (Produce Market) Altstadt Located on the square of the same name. to 5 p. Frauen Strasse to the south. remember two points: Do not touch the merchandise (doing so is against German food laws) and don’t try to bargain for lower prices (prices are not negotiable).C. a soda.m. ߜ The Antikensammlungen (Museum of Antiquities).– 1 p. on Sendlinger Strasse (% 089/260-9357. weekdays or until 1 p. and in other outdoor food markets throughout Germany. Here are some additional places to visit as you explore the city. it’s 1€ ($1. is an essential stop for anyone interested in ancient art. 2. five cheese sellers.

) television tower in the center of the park. including concerts. take place at the colossal 69. and 4 p. Königsplatz 3 (% 089/286-100. Apr–Oct).m. U-Bahn: Olympiazentrum). ߜ The Michaelskirche (St. and 5 p. Neuhauserstrasse 52 (% 089/231-7060.m. to 7 p. exhibits Germany’s largest collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. Tours depart at 10 and 11 a.m. A ticket for a ride to the top costs 4€ ($5) for adults and 2. 3.m. The church is open daily from 8 a.m. and 1. Michael’s Church).m.m. on Sunday. Here you find is a straightforward affair — just hop on in front of the Hauptbahnhof and buy your 11€ ($13) ticket onboard. . ߜ Olympiapark (% 089/3067-2414.000-seat stadium. to midnight. another goes to the Olympic Area where you can climb its 960-foot Olympic Tower (daily at 2:30 p. plus another at 10 a. Panorama also offers 21⁄2-hour. The extraordinary view reaches all the way to the Alps.m.. www. a colossal Sleeping Satyr from the Hellenistic period.50) for adults. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 a. everyone gets in for 1€ ($1..). Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. daily (Apr–Oct also at 11:30 a. is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps. the Glyptothek.m. One visits Schloss Nymphenburg (daily at 2:30 p.). and a haunting collection of Roman portraits.C. to 5 p. noon. They also run guided tours to the castle of Neuschwanstein. Olympiaturm (% 089/3067-2750).m. Various events. (until 8 p.m. The one-hour Stadtrundfahrt (city sightseeing tour) by Panorama Tours (% 089-54907560. is open daily from 9 a. in addition to the city orientation tour.278 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany gold leaf.m.m.10) for children younger than 16. spend some time exploring a single site with a guide.50€ ($3. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). Sunday from 6:45 a.autobusoberbayern. a third spends time in the Alte Pinakothek (Tues–Sun at 10 a. site of the 1972 Olympic games. the 293m-high (960-ft. 2. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). 19€ ($23) city tours that.m. ߜ Located across from the Antikensammlungen (see the first entry in this list).m.25). sits at the northwestern edge of Munich and is a small city unto itself. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.50€ ($4. 2. and silver cover every square inch of this small rectangular church with rounded ends..m. Seeing Munich by Guided Tour You have two choices for orientation bus tours. kouroi (statues of youths).m. to 10 p.). to 5:30 p.m. 2:30. Thurs). a single-nave church with a barrel-vaulted ceiling completed in 1597.

In 2002.mikesbiketours. Visitors now follow the route of the prisoners. parts of the KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau (Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial). February through November.m. disease. www. No need to reserve. lasting about ..m. Munich Walk Tours (% 0171/ All tours meet 15 minutes before setting off. were redesigned to focus on the fate of the prisoners and to integrate the still-existing historic buildings into the reworked permanent exhibition. Inscribed boards show the rooms’ original conditions and functions. For a more active experience.” homosexuals. Prisoners died through work. 19km (12 miles) northwest of Munich. The names of many of the dead are not known. Mike’s offers four-hour. under the tower of the Altes Rathaus on Marienplatz. enter rooms in which citizens were stripped of all their belongings and rights. growing numbers of Jews. you can tour Munich by bicycle with the English-speaking ex-pats at Mike’s Bike Tours (% 089/2554-3988 or 0172/852-0660. www. followed soon after by “beggars. conducted in English. Hitler’s Munich. The 21⁄4-hour City Walk Tour starts daily at 10:45 a. and where. The company offers several options. at 11:30 walktours. and 4 p. September to November 10 and March to April 15. Captions are in German and English. and then transfer to bus 724 or 726 to the camp. after 1938. Alte-Roemar-Strasse 75 (% 08131/1741). there’s also a 5:15 p. you pay the guide (identifiable by a yellow sign). Jehovah’s Witnesses.000 died. are a great way to find out about Munich’s history and architecture. more than 206.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 279 Dachau: Germany’s first concentration camp In 1933.. and mass executions by shooting. take S-Bahn train S2 from the Hauptbahnhof to Dachau (direction: Petershausen). In June and July. The daily tours leave at 2:30 p.m. and. The first to arrive were political prisoners (Communists and Social Democrats). admission is free.m. they were given a striped prison uniform. April 16 through August.m. and more than 32.m. to 5 p. To get to the camp. after disinfecting. the meeting point for all walks is the New Rathaus directly under the Glockenspiel on Marienplatz. hunger. Himmler ordered the first German concentration camp to be set up in Dachau. but displays showing prisoners’ faces and videos of survivor interviews put a very human face on the horrific pain and suffering endured by these ordinary citizens.000 prisoners arrived (the exact number is unknown). tour. The camp is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a. 24€ ($29) spins around the sights of central Munich (including 45 minutes in a beer garden). Dachau did not have gas chambers. Between 1933 and 1945.” “antisocial elements.m. shortly after Hitler became German chancellor.

This city is not one in which you’re likely to find many bargains. Joop. across from the main train station. Maffeistrasse 7–9 (% 089/210-390. folk art. Munich ranks right up there with Paris and London. The biggest concentration of shops selling secondhand goods is on Westenriederstrasse. Marienplatz at Christmas Marienplatz. Antiques devotees with deep pockets find what they want on Ottostrasse. smoked meats. is a good. Sometimes called “the Bloomingdale’s of Germany. and when the topic is shopping. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). the plaza overflows with stalls selling toys.” Ludwig Beck am Rathauseck. is Munich’s best department store and a good place to shop for handmade crafts from all across Germany. fruitcakes. . covers all the important facts and sites that played a role in Munich’s Nazi era. is the place for all kinds of high-quality loden (a waterproof wool) wear. Loden-Frey. The best streets for elegant boutiques and specialty shops are Briennerstrasse. including gingerbread. however. you find branches of all the top European couturiers and Germany’s and Munich’s own designers: Jil Sander. Hertie’s. From late November through December. Dirndl-Ecke. The cost for each tour is 10€ ($13 for adults). a spiced red wine. and Rudolph Moshammer. Maximilianstrasse (which also has the leading art galleries). Bogner. has a large selection of high-quality Bavarian costumes. is the scene of a famous Christkindl Markt.280 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 21⁄2 hours. handicrafts. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Am Platzl 1/Sparkassenstrasse 10 (% 089/220-163. and a mouthwatering array of traditional snacks and sweets. and handicrafts. tree ornaments. free for children younger than 14. Marienplatz 11 (% 089/236-910. Max Dietl. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). such as coats. Shopping for Local Treasures Munich is the fashion capital of Germany. Bahnhofplatz 7 (% 089/55120. sugarcoated almonds. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). On these streets. or Christmas Market. allpurpose department store. and hats. founded in 1842. the main square of the inner city. and piping hot Glühwein. Maffeistrasse. General shopping is less pricey on and around Marienplatz and along the main pedestrian streets Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauser Strasse. jackets. Dirndls (traditional German dresses). and Theatinestrasse. 9€ ($11) for those younger than 26.

m. Leopoldstrasse 7 (% 089/333-333. is a sprawling. have a beer.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 281 Discovering Nightlife in Munich Something always is going on in Munich. % 089/2185-1920. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Few cities in Europe can rival Munich for the sheer number of musical and theatrical events. Munich is renowned for its opera and symphony concerts and theater. called a performs from midSeptember to July in the Philharmonic Hall in the Gasteig Kulturzentrum (Cultural Center). (See “The best beer gardens” earlier in this chapter. To find out what’s playing.) You also find plenty of bars and dance clubs for late-night partying. Checking out bars and clubs Cafes are quiet in the afternoon but pick up noise and steam as the evening wears on. to midnight. Bars and cafes Café Extrablatt.50€/$2) from one of the tourist offices.muenchnerphilharmoniker. The cafe is open Monday through Thursday from 8 a.” earlier in this chapter) also is an important performance venue for plays and operas. S-Bahn: Isartor). artists. Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (Tram 19). which generally is open during the day and an hour before the performance. or midnight. Altes Residenztheater (Cuvilliés Theater. you can sit with a coffee or a drink and order light meals or pastries. and Sunday from 9 a. to 1 a. smoke-filled hangout for writers. Rosenheimerstrasse 5 (% 089/5481-8181.m. www.m. to midnight. pick up a copy of Monatsprogramm (1.m. www. Herrnstrasse 30 (% 089/291-884. Tram: 19). S-Bahn: Rosenheimerplatz). But you can sit back in a leafy beer garden or in a beer hall. Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera. The famous Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra. is a lively singles bar fueled by rum-based cocktails. In a cafe. the jewel-box rococo theater in the Residenz (see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z. The best way to purchase tickets is to go directly to the venue’s box office.staatsoper. The club hours are . As southern Germany’s cultural is one of the world’s great opera companies. U-Bahn: Universität). Performances of both opera and ballet take place in the National Theater. and enjoy the local scene. and the occasional celeb. Nightclubs in Munich. Friday and Saturday from 9 a. Havana Club.m. tend to get going around 11 p. as in the rest of the world. Residenzstrasse 1 (% 089/ 2185-1940.bayerische.

times-square. and stage shows (which begin at 11 p. call % 112.m. If you’re calling within Munich.282 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Monday through Wednesday from 6 p. to 1 a. Bayerstrasse side (% 089/ 5508-8000.m. if you’re looking for a chic spot. Kunstpark Ost. and Saturday from 9:30 a. . writers. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number. Use 89 if you’re calling Munich from outside Germany. Cover ranges from 4€ to 8€ ($5–$10). is open for mail pickup and check cashing Monday through Friday from 9 a. is done up like an Edwardian-era London club and attracts an eclectic assortment of locals and tourists. to 3 a. call % 110. 36 Maximilianstrasse (% 089/229-060. and bar.m.m. to 12:30 p. Tram: 19). (don’t show up before then).m. or for the The place is open daily from 9 p. All the bars open by 8 p. offers expensive cocktails. The bar is open Sunday through Friday from 5 p.m. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof). www.m. blues. No cover charge. attracting soccer stars. City Code The city telephone code for Munich is 089.m. Nachtcafé. Charles Schumann. and waves of “ordinary” patrons to its bar. Frauenstrasse 11 (% 089/229-909. discos start around 10:30 p. Emergencies For emergency medical aid. movie stars.m.m. to 6 a.m. restaurant.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). and soul. to 3 a. Tram: 49). is a complex of bars. and dance clubs. to 6 p. to 2 a.m. Business Hours See the appendix for details. Promenadeplatz 6 (% 089/2280-1465. If you’re within Germany but not in Munich. has computer workstations. Master’s Home. The décor is updated 1950s.).m. and is open daily from 7:30 a. Nightclubs Set within an old factory. is one of the most happening nightspots in Munich. If you get hungry there is a restaurant on the premises. and Thursday through Saturday from 7 p. Schumanns American Bar.m. a bistro. The club is open nightly from 6 p. Internet Access Times Square Online Bistro in the Hauptbahnhof. Grafingerstrasse 6 (% 089/ 4900-2730. the music is jazz.m. to 1 a.m. Maximilianplatz 5 (% 089/595-900. use 089. Tram 19). Currency Exchange You can exchange money at the currency exchange in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) daily from 6 a.m. Fast Facts: Munich American Express American Express.m. You can move from venue to venue according to your interest.m.m. restaurants. For the fire department. this is it. mixed and/or invented by the owner. See also “Telephone” in the appendix. to 11:30 p.

The office is open Monday through Friday from 7 is the best site for general information. 283 Safety Munich. to 4 p. such as Marienplatz and the Hauptbahnhof.bavaria. Saturday from 8 a. Web Sites The tourist office Web site (www. to 3 p..m. muenchen.m. to 8 p. call the public-transportation authority.mvv-muenchen. Neuhauserstrasse 11 (% 089/260-3021. Most robberies occur in the much-frequented tourist areas. to 8 p. has its share of crime. like all big restaurants.m.m.m. at Bahnhofplatz 1 (% 089/599-0870). MVV. Restrooms You find restrooms in cafes. especially pickpocketing and purseand camera-snatching. and beer halls throughout the Altstadt. Post Office The Postamt München (main post office) is across from the Hauptbahnhof. . You find more information on Munich and Bavaria at www. Transit Assistance For information on the U-Bahn and trams.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Pharmacies International Ludwig’s Apotheke. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz) at % 089/4142-4344 or visit their Web site (www.m.m.m. a drugstore where English is spoken. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. to 4 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a. and Sunday from 9 a.

the legendary “dream king” (or “mad king. when a German republic replaced the Bavarian monarchy. world-class ski and winter-sports resorts. one of Germany’s most beautiful scenic drives and one of the best ways to sample the delights of Bavaria. Visitors find a great deal to enjoy in this mountainous region in addition to Ludwig’s castles. and nature on a grand scale. the southernmost part of Germany. Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau.Chapter 16 Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring the medieval towns along the Romantic Road ᮣ Discovering Neuschwanstein. historic buildings. the region didn’t become a kingdom until 1806. A . both easy daytrips from Munich. by order of Napoleon. or Romantic Road. houses with fancifully painted facades. When they speak wistfully about “the king. Upper Bavaria (Oberbayern). Ludwig’s castles mark the end of the Romantische Strasse.” depending on your interpretation) whose castles at Linderhof and Neuschwanstein draw millions of visitors. Bavaria abounds with romantic villages. gently rises through foothills covered with verdant pastures.” they mean only one: Ludwig II. rococo churches. and groves of evergreens to the dramatic heights of the Alps that divide Germany and western Austria. the fairy-tale castle of Ludwig II ᮣ Visiting the alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen ᮣ Day-tripping to Oberammergau and Schloss Linderhof lthough Bavaria’s recorded history dates back some 1. lake-splashed countryside.100 years. Brief as it was. Bavaria remained a kingdom until 1918. will give you a taste of what Bavaria has to offer. many Bavarians still regard that royal era with nostalgia.

which spread across southcentral Germany. fear got) or für dich (for you. You also can visit these towns by train as daytrips from Munich or Frankfurt. the old city center with its leafy squares and historic buildings. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. From Munich (Chapter 15) you can drive 119km (74 miles) southwest to Füssen and drive the route in reverse. renting a car at Frankfurt airport (Chapter 20) is easy. The major towns for overnight stays are Würzburg. Driving these 290km (180 miles) of specially marked lanes and secondary roads. The two sights of most . it would be Bavaria’s Romantische Strasse. The bishops of Würzburg. graceful river and wine town are most obvious in the Altstadt.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 285 Greetings from Bavaria In Bavaria. For more information. you can hit all the highlights. The charms of this old. The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria If I had to recommend only one scenic drive in Germany. travelers enjoy an unfolding panorama of surprisingly beautiful rural landscapes interspersed with a host of small medieval cities.” Goodbye is für Gott (for God. all of which I describe later in this chapter. and remained so until Napoleon ended the power of the church in 1802. Würzburg was in ancient times an important town in the duchy of Franconia. “God greets you. were also princes of Franconia. visit the Romantic Road’s Web site (www. the official start of the Romantic Road.romantischestrasse.) If you’re arriving in Frankfurt. From there. and Füssen. fear dikh). Though today it’s part of Bavaria. winding from the vineyard-clad hills surrounding Würzburg south to the green alpine pastures and craggy forested peaks around Neuschwanstein Castle. Augsburg. roughly. who took possession of the town in 1050. In three or four days of very easy driving. Würzburg: Franconian Fortress Würzburg on the River Main is a lively university town surrounded by miles of vineyards. or Romantic Road. many of them rebuilt after World War II (WWII). (See “The Romantic Road” map in this chapter. people generally use the greeting grüss Gott (pronounced grease got) rather than guten Morgen (good morning) or guten Tag (good day). The saying means. you can drive southeast 119km (74 miles) to Würzburg.

and Sundays April through October from 10 a. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/30530. Finding information The tourist information office. and Visa are accepted. Marktplatz 9 (% 0931/37-23-98.m. Dettelbachergasse 2. is a pleasant. You can easily reach Würzburg by train from Frankfurt (11⁄2 hours). light. www. (See the “Würzburg” map in this chapter.m. Diners Club. Diners Club. Pleichortorstrasse 5. with the big buffet breakfast an additional 15€ ($19). herring filets with apples. fruity Franconian wines of the region go well with anything. and pickles in sour cream.m. Each room is different.m. www. is a lovely place to sit outside on a warm evening and dine on Franconian specialties of the Würzburg area. American Express. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday 11 a. MasterCard. roasted meats. The fresh. modern hotel within easy walking distance of the Altstadt. the baroque palace of the princebishops.286 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany interest to tourists are the Residenz. breakfast included. The medium-sized rooms are decorated in an unobtrusive contemporary style and have good-sized bathrooms with tub and shower. Rack rates for a double room run from 100€ to 210€ ($125–$262). For train information. and the Festung Marienburg. American Express. Maritim Hotel Würzburg. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information on the city. www. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/ 35170.) Getting there If you come by car from Frankfurt. Main courses range from 8€ to 18€ ($10–$22). to 2 (Jan–Mar until 1 p.greifensteiner-hof. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. Munich (21⁄2 hours). and Sunday 11 a. A standard double room goes for 60€ to 90€ ($75–$112) per night. in the Hotel Greifensteiner Hof (described in the preceding section). Staying in Würzburg Greifensteiner Hof. Dettelbachergasse 2 (% 09861/87809). to 6 p. American Express. take the A3 southeast and follow the signs to Würzburg. is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. to 3 p.). Try fresh fish in Riesling wine sauce. an onion tart). Saturday from 10 a.m.m. and Visa are accepted. is a charming 40-room hotel right in the heart of the Altstadt behind the Marienkirche.m.m. to 2 p. Dining in Würzburg The Fränkische Stuben. their earlier fortress-castle high on a hill overlooking the town. or Zwiebelkuchen (zwee-bel-kook-en. Diners Club. to midnight.maritim.m. and Visa are wuerzburg. .). or anywhere else in Germany. MasterCard.m. MasterCard. (Jan–Mar until 4 p. with nice designer touches and a smallish bathroom.

D.d.T.T. Schillingf rst Schillingfürst Ansbach Schwabach Roth 2 KIS 2 Heilbronn Murrhardt Backnang Winnenden 29 Crailsheim E43 25 Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl Ellingen CH E45 Feuchtwangen Gunzenhousen Gunzenhausen 19 Wallerstein Aalen 29 Schwabisch Schwäbisch Gmünd Gm nd rdlingen Nördlingen 25 ALB Harburg 16 FR Ingolstadt Neuberg-ander-Donau Donauw rth Donauwörth AD RO AD RO AN CC M TITI RO AN M RO 16 16 Ellwangen (Jagst) UC H Heidenheim an der Brenz Goppingen Kirchheim unter Teck E52 E43 28 Nürtingen rtingen 28 Dillingen an der Donau AN Ä 300 Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Munich 2 Ulm Augsburg 17 E A LB To Munich E52 E50 Ehingen (Donau) 30 E43 312 Friedberg Area of detail Krumbach (Schwaben) Olching Fürstenfeldbruck rstenfeldbruck Landsberg E54 am Lech TIC ROAD ROMAN Biberach an der Riß Ri 312 E54 Mindelheim Herbertingen 32 30 Landsberg 17 Memmingen Kaufbeuren Leutkirch im Allgäu Allg Kempten Immenstadt im Allgäu Allg Lindau Sonthofen Diessen Ammersee Starnberg Herrsching Hohenfurch Hohen B2 Starnbergersee E533 Weingarten Ravensburg E43/54 Markt.Schongau oberdorf Wildsteig Bo Wangen im Allgäu Allg de ns ee Peiting Rottenbuch Murnau Steingaden Wieskirche Wies Oberammergau Wies Schwangau 17 Neuschwanstein Walchen Hohenschwangau Walchensee Penzberg Füssen ssen B11 SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA LEC ER EN AL L P HT A GarmischPartenkirchen Zugspitze .Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 287 The Romantic Road Schweinfurt Aschaffenburg E41 E45 0 20 mi Bamberg 0 Bamberg 20 km Wiesentheid 3 E43 8 E45 73 Würzburg rzburg Werthelm 47 RO A D RO M AN TI C Castle Church Forchheim Erlangen 27 Mittenberg Amorbach 27 Tauberbischofsheim Lauda-k nigshofen Lauda-königshofen Röttingham ttingham 290 Creglingen 25 Bad Mergentheim Weikersheim Weikersheim Fürth rth Nürnberg rnberg Herrgottskirche HO H OH HE ENLO N LOH H E R EB E BE ENE E50 O. Rothenburg o.

% 09317/20-59-40).de). which takes place during the first three weeks in June. the formal and elegant Hofgarten. the and.m. also is worth visiting. Langgasse 1 (% 0931/13021). you come to the Rathaus. a court chapel with colored marble columns and two important altar paintings by Tiepolo. the 345-room Residenz. Crowning the high slope on the west side of the Main is the Festung Marienburg (Marienburg Fortress.50€ ($5. The restaurant. or court garden. Behind the palace. For more information on this popular event. is open daily from noon to midnight. for local transportation information call % 0931/36-13-52 or visit www. was completed in 1744 by architect Balthasar Neuman for Prince-Bishop Johann von Schönborn. Homemade sausage mixed with fried potatoes and eggs. and the Weisser Saal (White Hall) and Gartensaal (Garden Room). Mary’s Church). Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. which will take you right up to the gate.m. one of the oldest churches . to 6 p. with a ceiling covered by a huge fresco with mythological allegories painted by Tiepolo.m. Marienburg Fortress is a huge complex of buildings that includes within its walls the eighthcentury Marienkirche (St. Continuing west on Domstrasse from the cathedral. call % 0931/37-23-36 or visit the festival’s Web site (www. 9. One of the annual highlights of Würzburg’s cultural year is the Mozart Festival. Residenzplatz 2 (% 0931/35-51-70). reached by crossing the late-15th-century Alte Mainbrücke (Old Main Bridge) and following the marked footpath (you can also take the no. Many of the concerts by renowned musicians are performed in the beautiful baroque rooms of the Residenz. perhaps. 9 bus from the Residenz). and 3 p. The Residenz is open daily from 9 a.–4 p. (Nov–Mar 10 a. or stairway. Domstrasse (% 0931/3211830).). Considered one of the most important palaces in Europe and a masterpiece of the baroque era.wvv.50). and Visa are accepted. Guided tours in English are given daily at 11 a. you come to the Romanesque Dom (Cathedral) St. admission is 4. the Marktplatz (Market Square). American Express.m.m. up to the Festung Marienburg.288 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankish foods with an occasional French twist are served at the atmospheric Ratskeller Würzburg. both slathered with a riot of fanciful stucco work.m.50–$19). A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. Following Hofstrasse west from the Residenz. Kilian. mozartfest-wuerzburg. Exploring Würzburg The town is compact enough so that you can walk everywhere — except. just north of it. The most important areas to visit are the vaulted Treppenhaus. begun in 1040 and rebuilt after extensive damage in WWII. with tables on the square in good weather. accessible by a scenic footpath up or bus no. where main courses range from 6€ to 15€ ($7. the liveliest square in Würzburg. MasterCard.50). or roast beef with fried onions and potatoes make for filling feasts.

Neubaustr. The one must-see attraction in this local history collection is the room devoted to the carved wooden sculptures of Tilman Riemenschneider.Berliner Wörthstr. Sand l a ci nts 0 1/8 mile Ludwigsbrücke Am tenden Stu haus Fr ie tr. Z e l l er S i Dom Altes 3 (St. 6 brücke . Marktplatz Ka p E ic h h n or .m. Würzburg Munich Hauge rring . rst ine z u tr. rone eik Dr Th r te ea Karmelitenstr Mai nkai . Alte Universität Bal HOFGARTEN Burkarder Tor Leistenstr. e ls m m e S Kr o a t e n g a sse Platz r. Neue Universität g rrin de San rich Fried tos E b ter g Rin Südbahnhof en s d tr. (until 4 p.m. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Juliusspital Schönbornstr. . 1. tpo Lui lds tr.75) adults. nstr. - Re nn tr. wi gs r. admission is 3€ ($3. the great Gothic master woodcarver (see the nearby sidebar). str d Lu weger Ring kai nen Kra n Mai 1 Juliu s e enad prom tr. the Romantic Road leaves the River Main and follows Route 27 in a southwesterly direction to the town of Tauberbischofsheim Ka N erg sstr. Pro Neum me nad anne Renn weg 7 MAINVIERTEL Saalgasse ALTSTADT Dom 5 er s chu lstr . to 5 p. str genrin Koell Hauptbahnhof (train station) Rönt g erst r. H e i nes tr. in winter). and the Mainfränkisches Museum. r Augustinerst Büttnerstr.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 289 i Würzburg Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Information er im he ch hö its Ve . 0 125 meters ACCOMMODATIONS and DINING Fränkische Stuben 2 Greifensteiner Hof 2 Maritim Hotel Würzburg 1 Ratskeller Würzburg 3 ATTRACTIONS Alte Mainbrücke 4 Dom 6 Festung Marienburg & Mainfrankisches Museum 5 Residenz 7 in Germany. San der str.m. Ot tr. Kilian) Rathaus n ai Alte M 4 Domstr. Kais sden Frie rücke b ikerst 2 th. Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg From Würzburg.50€ ($2) students. str .

You can see more work by this great artist at the Herrgottskirche near Creglingen on the Romantic Road. to 12:30 p.m. whose incredibly expressive wood sculptures are the highlight of the Mainfränkisches Museum. and between 1505 and 1510. attractive spa town is worth a stop to stroll along its pretty cobbled streets and to have a quick look at the Deutschordenschloss. As a result of his political views..m. if you’re into that sort of thing. Another 18km (11 miles) on B19 brings you to Creglingen. .290 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Tilman Riemenschneider: Würzburg’s master woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531).m. was built where a farmer plowing his fields claimed to have found a sacred host. During the Peasants’ Revolt of 1525. this master woodcarver sided with the rebels and incurred the implacable wrath of the prince-bishops. Sun 10:30 a. where you pick up B290 to Bad Mergentheim.m.m. created an extraordinarily beautiful altar with figures representing the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin framed by scenes from her life. % 07933/370). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. 1.m.90). The church is open daily from 9:15 a.75) adults. Across the road from the church is the small Fingerhutmuseum (Thimble Museum. Devoted to armor and weaponry. admission is 1.m.90). Riemenschneider was imprisoned and tortured. a palace used by royal princes and the medieval order of Teutonic Knights.m.50€ ($1. admission is 1. This small. dating from 1389. is open Tuesday through Sunday 10:30 a. He died shortly after being released from prison. to 5:30 p.. is one of the major highlights along the Romantic Road. admission is 3. you buy your ticket at a machine outside the church. to 5 p. described in the “Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg” section of this chapter. the master woodcarver from Würzburg. The town. the only museum in the world devoted to the history of thimbles. has been a tourist destination for nearly a century. worth a stop to see the famous carved wooden altar by Tilman Riemenschneider in the Herrgottskirche. a completely intact walled medieval city located on a high promontory above the Tauber River.50) for children 6 to 12. It quickly became a place of pilgrimage. % 07931/52212). Riemenschneider. and 2 to 5 p.50€ ($1. It’s interesting . just 51km (32 miles) southeast of Würzburg. The church. within the palace complex.20€ ($1. 47km (29 miles) south of Würzburg. the Deutschordensmuseum (Teutonic Knights Museum.. and from .).80€ ($4.m. Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories Rothenburg. (Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 2–5 p. serving as both a councilor and mayor. located on a signposted road about 2km (11⁄2 miles) south of Creglingen in Herrgottstal. .–5 p. lived and worked in Würzburg for 48 years. continue south from Creglingen on B290. (See the “Rothenburg ob der Tauber” map in this chapter. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. Don’t let that deter you from visiting this remarkable reminder of Germany’s medieval past. For train information. but you need to transfer at Würzburg or Ansbach and again at Steinach.-Jakobskirche 3 e N a ug sse Ci Hamburg 12 ga eng W ty sse wa Berlin G E R MA NY am Main 11 Kirche Burg gas se Al a St dt t e gr a be MarktFranziskaner platz n 9 Rödergasse ll Frankfurt Cit y wall 13 T Heilig-GeistKirche 0 Spitalgasse Rothenburg ob der Tauber Munich ub Church Information 1/8 mile 125 meters i N ACCOMODATIONS Burghotel 4 Hotel Eisenhut 10 14 0 May through September you’ll likely encounter hordes of visitors. www. You also can reach Rothenburg by train from Nuremberg.bahn. .Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 291 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Ci 1 ty wall Bezold weg Kling enschutt Ro se e ngas Kling 3 5 Schrannenplatz Ju d e n gass e 2 G 4 e alg nga sse sen ga sse Klostergasse Herrn g asse 6 7 8 10 i DINING Burgerkeller 5 Gasthof Marktplatz 6 Ratsstube 8 ATTRACTIONS Castle Gardens 11 Klingenbastei 1 Marktplatz 9 Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum 12 Plönlein 13 Rathaus und er Ratstrinkstube 7 R iv r e Reichsstadtmuseum 2 a Spitalbastei 14 St. or Stuttgart.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road.

Double rooms go for 90€ to 170€ ($112–$212).m. a pork schnitzel with cream sauce.m. The Gasthof also rents out simple. Staying in Rothenburg See Chapter 22 for a description of Hotel Eisenhut ($$–$$$$). to 3 breakfast included).m. is open May through October Monday through Friday from 9 a.–1 p. from its half-timbered facade at the end of a cobblestone cul-de-sac to its large.50€ ($9. (closed Jan–Mar). Rothenburg’s premier hotel.m.50–$13) for a main course.m. Boutique hotel standards prevail. and 6 to 9 p. and Sat 10 a. www. American-style breakfasts also are available.m. Main courses range from 8€ to 14€ ($10–$17).m. carless Marktplatz. and 6 to 9 p. and Jägerschnitzel. 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber (% 09861/94890. .292 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Finding information Tourist Information.). The Ratsstube. to 2 p. www. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. is a pleasant spot to dine on good. Expect to pay 6€ to 10€ ($7. MasterCard. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday 11 a. parking costs 7. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Burgerkeller.m. No credit cards are accepted. some with a nice view of busy. Klostergasse 1–3.rothenburg. basic. including breakfast.50) and on Sunday from noon to 6 p.m.m. on the square to the right of the Rathaus. It isn’t gourmet by any stretch. in the town hall.. and Visa are accepted. housed in a 16th-century cellar (with tables outside in nice weather). Herrngasse 24 (% 09861/2126).. to 11 p. local cooking and sample local wines. serves hearty. The restaurant is open daily except Wednesday from 11:30 The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information about the city. www. to 2 p. more like German comfort food. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. rothenburg.gasthofmarktplatz. Everything about the 15-room Burg Hotel. American Express. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. Gasthof Marktplatz. Standard dishes include Maultaschensuppe (stuffed pasta in broth) and Nuremberg sausages on sauerkraut.m.m.m. Grüner Markt 10 (% 09861/6722. such as Käsespätzle (cheesecoated noodles) cooked with onions. to 6 p. old-fashioned Swabian dishes. inexpensive rooms (38€–48€/$47–$60. Marktplatz 6 (% 09861/92411). has a tavernlike interior and is a favorite of those who prefer hearty cooking (including sauerbraten and venison) without a lot of fuss and bother. Marktplatz (% 09861/40492. (Nov–Apr Mon–Fri until 5 p.m. is picturesque.burghotel. and the entire hotel is nonsmoking. prettily decorated rooms with views out across the Tauber Valley. Diners Club.

part 16th-century Renaissance. look for a Rothenburg specialty called Schneeballen (snowballs) — crisp. captured the Protestant city of Rothenburg and was given. Here’s a rare chance to see chastity belts. For an excellent visual introduction. Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber Medieval walls encircle almost half of Rothenburg.m. take a walk on a portion of the town ramparts from the massive 16thcentury Spitalbastei (a medieval tower-gate at the end of the Spitalgasse) to the Klingenbastei (another tower-gate). a 31⁄2-liter (6-pint) tankard of wine.m.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 293 The Master Draught: How Mayor Nusch saved Rothenburg In 1631.50€ ($4.m. Admission is 3. and 1. commander of the armies of the Catholic League. At the center of Rothenburg is the bustling Marktplatz (Market Square) dominated by the Rathaus (% 09861/40492). General Tilly. Then just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere in one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. The museum is open April through October daily from 9:30 a.50) adults.. to reveal the figures of General Tilly and Herr Nusch. the other half sits on a high ridge above the Tauber River.25). to 4 p. an old inn with three clocks on its gabled facade.m.) tower. 3. South of the Rathaus. Adjacent to the Rathaus.m. admission 1€/$1. Burggasse 3–5 (% 09861/ 5359). Medieval crime and punishment are the fascinatingly gruesome subjects of the museum’s displays. as victor. thus saving Rothenburg and giving himself a three-day hangover. round pastries covered with powdered sugar. From the top of its 50m (165-ft. November and January through February daily from 2 to 4 p.m. and 1–5 p. in 1881. you get a great view of the town (open Apr–Oct 9:30 a.m. a dunking basket. The play forms the centerpiece of a weekend festival that takes place every September in Rothenburg. and 10 p. 9.–12:30 p. Windows on either side of the lowest clock open at 11 a. chief protagonists in the drinking bout that saved Rothenburg. during the Thirty Years’ War. a 14th-century hospital with Rothenburg’s only 18th-century baroque facade houses the macabre Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime Museum). ..m.m. called Die Meistertrunk (The Master Draught). This historical episode was performed as a festival play.30€ ($3) for students. noon. 2.. You can buy them in bakeries all across town. part 13th-century Gothic. Former mayor Nusch accepted the challenge and succeeded. and now serving as the tourist information office. As you’re walking. 2. and an iron maiden. December and March daily from 10 a. a shame flute for bad musicians. to 6 p. He said he would spare the town from destruction if one of the town burghers could down the huge tankard in one draught..m. shame masks. when hundreds of citizens dress up in period costumes and re-create the period of the Master Draught. is the Ratstrinkstube (Councilors’ Tavern).

2€ ($2. One particularly pretty spot with lovely views over the Tauber Valley is Castle Gardens.m. Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg The charm of driving along the Romantic Road is enhanced by the bucolic landscapes seen between the villages. No must-see sights are in either town. and houses. Every day is Christmas at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Weinachtsdoft (Christmas Village). it’s the largest town along the Romantic Road and serves as a . to noon and 2 to 4 p. November through March daily from 1 to 4 p. Open hours are April through October daily from 10 a. North and south of Rothenburg. Klosterhof 5 (% 09861/93-9043). pewter beer steins. to 5:15 p.m. Also look for the photogenic corner known as the Plönlein.m. to 5 p.50) for students and seniors. and dolls. squares.m. to 4:45 p.m. leafy Tauber Valley. is worth visiting to see the Heiliges-Blut-Altar (Altar of the Holy Blood). where two streets.. Herrngasse 1 (% 09861/4090). described earlier in this chapter. James). and kitchen. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. Klostergasse 15 (% 09861/700-620). Driving along B25. converge. 0.m. Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance Augsburg is a city of pleasant surprises. armaments. Grüner Markt (% 09861/7166). a park on the site of the imperial castle. a collection of gold coins.90) for children 6 to 18. December daily 10 a.294 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Gothic St.000. 1. on the way to Augsburg. The church is open daily April through October from 9 a. (Riemenschneider’s work also is on view in Würzburg and in the Herrgottskirche. Just northwest of the Jakobskirche is the Reichsstadtmuseum (City Museum). Shopping in Rothenburg Kunstwerke Friese. Admission is 1. just the picturesque streets. November and January through March daily 10 a.50€ ($1. music boxes. churches. you also pass neatly tended farms and fields. Rothenburg has plenty of picturesque nooks and crannies to explore. With a population of about 260. a Christmas-related emporium loaded with thousands upon thousands of Christmas ornaments. convent hall.50 (65¢) children.. an upper and a lower. drinking vessels.50€ ($2) adults. Two walled medieval towns worth a stop and stroll are Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen. specializes in cuckoo clocks and carries Hummel figurines. a masterpiece created by the Würzburg sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider.m. It displays medieval panel paintings.) The fine painted-glass windows in the church choir date from the late Gothic period.m.75) for adults..m. the drive parallels the lovely. which is housed in a 700year-old Dominican nunnery with well-preserved cloisters.-Jakobskirche (Church of St. and objects of local interest.

nto ue Fr a eg Ho he r W L au Mittl. Rotes Tor 125 meters gateway to the Bavarian Alps.igst r . erst Be e str. Rathausplatz An 9 nas i Fuggerei Kap p ene ck Jakoberwallturm Vogeltor Z e ug g er . G ra b en i ter n rabe . . and the lively ambience of a university town. under the patronage of the enormously wealthy Fugger family. Anna 9 a Un f. Armen h ausg. Spen e Mauer b P Ra u h ec w o ff st r rdsberg Leonha 4 5 6 P il g e r h a usstr. A stroll through Augsburg reveals an attractive urban landscape loaded with historic buildings. 0 0 Church Information 1/8 mile Stettenstr.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 295 Augsburg uz re Au f m de Je su i K St 1 2 hl e ass ng te rg Hofgarten Lu dw Obstmarkt Stadt. Graben i N us e rstr. Ulrichs Weite G a s e platz s K itzenmarkt t Pro vinos Schwibbogen platz R boldstr. Afra Prinzstr. J ako ber uer ma Unt. 7 8 Jakobertor tr.000 years ago by the Roman emperor Augustus and reached its cultural zenith during the Renaissance. continue on B25 south from Rothenburg to Augsburg. rad– ra Kon chiessg S sse kerga Bäc . The city was founded some 2. Trains from Frankfurt (trip time about 3 hours) Le ch h 3 r. (See the “Augsburg” map in this chapter. em St.G Ob Fugg r. Am S all ch w am Main Frankfurt Kapuzine r g Augsburg Munich r. ACCOMMODATIONS ATTRACTIONS Bert. charming corners. Jakoberst r. Brech Romantikhotel t Brechthaus 4 OblatterwallAugsburger Hof rstr turm Dom St. Maria 3 e d e Rirestaurant) (hotel and 1 Fuggerei 8 Steigenberger Drei Fugger-Stadtpalais 11 FünfgratMohren 10 Mozarthaus 2 turm Perlachturm 5 ü DINING b s n Rathaus 6 Fuggerei Stube G 7ä a elsu Schaezlerpalais 12 c a r St. ass ilian erg Maxim int W llee er–A nau Ade benstr.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. ethov enstr str . theater Karlstr. Ulrich und Kirchgasse St. tenau Grot glerg. r au lm allst e g Vo berw o Hamburg Jak Berlin Katharine ngasse 10 11 GERMANY Forster 12 H a l l s t r.

is the town’s full-service luxuryoriented hotel. Expect to pay 12€ to 25€ ($15–$31) for main courses. Maximilianstrasse 40.augsburger-hof. American Express. serves generous portions of Swabian food with a few “inter- . (9€/$11). MasterCard. though the rooms vary in size and level of finesse. The office also offers a two-hour bus tour May through October Thursday through Sunday at 10 a. www. and can help you find a room.75). Larger (and quieter) rooms face an inner courtyard. Jakoberstrasse 26 (% 0821/30870). call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.m. Rack rates for a double room range from 145€ to 165€ ($181–$206). and Visa are accepted.m.m. 86152 Augsburg (% 0821/34-30-50.m. on Saturdays at 2 p. is a 36-room boutiquestyle hotel located just minutes from central Rathausplatz and all Augsburg attractions. Service is friendly and efficient.m. Rathausplatz (% 0821/502-0724. dispenses general information. where the rear dining room is paneled in pale linden wood and the menu contains lots of Bavarian and Swabian on Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. American Express. MasterCard. distributes city maps. Auf dem Kreuz 2. Dining in Augsburg For fine food and impeccable service in lovely surroundings. 86150 Augsburg (% 0821/ For train information. www. www. to 1 p. The best way to appreciate Augsburg’s architectural and cultural heritage is by taking the walking tour (in German and English) offered by the tourist office daily at 2 The 102-room Steigenberger Drei Mohren. The best are large and comfortable.).de.–1 p. (Sun in summer 10 a. with marble-clad bathrooms with big bathtubs. augsburg-tourismus. Diners Club.steigenberger. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office.augsburg. dine at the restaurant in the Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof.bahn.m. All tours begin at the Rathaus. Staying in Augsburg Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. Doubles go for 97€ to 130€ ($121–$162) and include a good breakfast buffet.296 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Munich (trip time about 30 minutes) arrive frequently throughout the day. Auf dem Kreuz 2 (% 0821/34-30-50). Diners Club.m. Fuggerei Stube. The hotel’s restaurant is one of the best in town. and Saturday from 10 a.m.m. an unpretentious local eatery. from May through October. Rooms are nicely done with exposed beams in some and small but well-designed bathrooms with showers. open Monday through Friday 9 a. the rest of the year (7€/$8. to 6 p. and Visa are accepted. The hotel’s new (2006) Meder’s Bar and Grill serves smaller-portion German and international dishes throughout the day.

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. noted for its old masters painting collection with works by Dürer.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 297 national” dishes. Holbein. If you climb to the top of the soaring spire of the Perlachturm (Perlach Tower).m.m. houses the Bavarian State Gallery. you find the city market with stalls selling flowers. fixed-price menu 19€ ($24).. and 5:30 to 11 p. Exploring Augsburg Augsburg’s main square. is open May through October from 10 a. stands St. Maximilianstrasse 46 (% 0821/324-4125). produce. to 3 p.. The church. next to the Rathaus. Right next to the church. is one of the most significant secular buildings of the German Renaissance.m.. is dominated by two imposing Renaissance-era buildings. is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. you’ll find the Fuggerei. West of Rathausplatz. American Express. The Augustus fountain in front of the Rathaus was dedicated on the occasion of the town’s 1. Anna. stretches south from Rathausplatz.m. and much more.m. A late-18th-century mansion. both dating from 1500.m. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). Am Rathausplatz 2 (% 0821/324-9180). chicken breast with curry and rice. to 6 p. 10 a.m.m. both considerably rebuilt after damage in WWII. and Cranach. on the Annahof. . or Ladies’ Court. and Visa are accepted. onions. A pair of churches. to 6 p. and 3 p. Martin Luther stayed in the adjoining monastery when he was called to Augsburg to recant his 95 Theses before a papal emissary. on Jakobsplatz in the old residential quarter of town. MasterCard. which contains paintings by Lucas Cranach and the chapel of the Fugger family. Look for potato cream soup with mushrooms.50€ ($4.m. designed by Elias Holl and completed in 1620. Maximilianstrasse. East of Maximilianstrasse. of what was once the Fugger-Stadtpalais (Fugger City Palace). to 6 p. Rathausplatz. In 1518.m.75). pastries.m.600th birthday in 1594. Ulrich and St. calves’ liver with apples.m. the Fuggerei was built in 1523 by Jacob Fugger the Rich. one of the most important building complexes in Augsburg.m. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a. on Annahof. the Schaezlerpalais. demarcate the southern end of Maximilianstrasse. The tower. you’ll be rewarded with a marvelous view of the old town center.50). The interior is famous for its sumptuous Goldener Saal (Golden Hall). and still in use today. admission is 3. and roast potatoes. 7€/$8. ornamented by three large Renaissance-era fountains and lined with shops and fine patrician houses. duck into the courtyard of Maximilianstrasse 36 to have a look at the Damenhof. As you stroll along Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. Sunday 11:30 a. The first almshouses in the world. which can be visited only as part of a Rathaus tour (daily May–Oct. The Rathaus. and vegetarian offerings. to 2 p. Afra. a former Carmelite monastery church dating from 1321. St. capped by a distinctive dome called an “Augsburg onion” (you’ll see these onion domes on churches all across Augsburg and as you head south into Bavaria).

To return to the Romantic Road. and a 14th-century bronze door.). are found in the south transept of Augsburg’s cathedral.25). Auf dem Rain 7 (% 0821/324-2779) was the birthplace of playwright Bertolt Brecht (1898–1956) and today serves as a Brecht memorial. where Wolfgang’s father. Altered during the centuries. and bright frescoes. 6km (4 miles) southeast of the town of Steingaden off B17. I strongly recommend that you make a short detour to Wies.m. lets you glimpse the interior of one of the cottages as it looked in centuries past.m. Maria.m. to 5 p. Residents pay an annual rent of 1€ (equivalent to one old Rhenish guilder) and are expected to pray three times a day for the soul of their benefactor. dating from the 12th century. Behind a rather sober facade. lived in the Fuggerei almshouse at Mittlere Gasse 14. Mittlere Gasse 13 (% 0821/3198810).m. Hoher Weg (% 0821/316-6353). The Mozarthaus and the Brechthaus are open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. to 5 p. Some of the oldest stained-glass windows in Germany. It’s open March through December daily from 10 a. admission is 1€ ($1. One of the world’s most exuberantly decorated buildings. a fountain. paintings by Hans Holbein the Elder.m. On this segment of the drive.. was born. the cathedral features Gothic frescoes. Ludwig II’s famous castle in the Bavarian Alps. The church is open daily from 8 a. who worked on the church with his brother from 1746 to 1754.50€ ($2). you may want to take a look at the humble Mozarthaus. Wolfie’s great-grandfather Franz Mozart. .m.m.m. and a park. If you’re a fan of Mozart.. a master mason reduced to penury. admission to each is 1. Dom St. the lightflooded interior with its enormous cupola shimmers with a superabundance of woodcarvings. where you find the Wieskirche (% 08862/501). Admission is free.–5 a. a church. to 6 p. backtrack to B17 and follow it south to Neuschwanstein. Leopold. Frauentorstrasse 30 (% 0821/324-3984). a remarkable pilgrimage church in a beautiful alpine meadow (the name means “church in the meadow”).m. Surrounded by walls and gates (locked 10 p. the compound looks like a miniature town with 67 identical cottages containing 147 small apartments. this rococo masterpiece was created by Dominikus Zimmermann (1685–1766). gilded stucco.298 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Wieskirche: Masterpiece in a meadow On the stretch of B17 from Augsburg to Füssen. the Fuggerei Museum. the Romantic Road passes through some industrialized areas that aren’t particularly appealing. Tiny but fascinating. statues. (Apr–Sept until 7 p. The Brechthaus.). columns. but then the verdant (or snow-covered) pastures of the Bavarian Alps appear.

was the fairy-tale concoction of Maximilian’s son. the nearest large town (described later in this chapter). A ticket office near the parking lot of the castles sells tickets for both Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. The tour guide will meet you inside. head south along B17 to Schwangau. he built the Neo-Gothic castle you see today and used it as a summer holiday residence. Neuschwanstein.. When the time comes. receiving nearly a million visitors a year. . open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. Getting there If you’re driving from Augsburg along the Romantic Road. On the ruins. Be prepared for long lines (sometimes up to 3 hours) in the summer. Saturday from 9 a.m. try to arrive as soon as the castles open in the morning. Hohenschwangau. the most photographed building in Germany. Exploring Hohenschwangau The castle was a 600-year-old ruin when Ludwig’s father. Münchenerstrasse 2 (% 08362/81980). A tour number and entry time are printed on your ticket. Ten buses a day (no. 9713) arrive from Füssen. which last about 35 minutes each. bought it in 1832. feed your ticket into the turnstile in front of the respective castle. King Ludwig II. The rooms of Hohenschwangau were designed and furnished in a ponderous “Gothic Castle” style that was fashionable in the 1830s and 1840s. it’s a 7km (4-mile) drive along a signposted road. Ludwig II spent much of his joyless childhood at Hohenschwangau with his strait-laced father and his mother.m. From there. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. 25. built by Maximilian II in 1836. to noon. One parking lot serves both castles. to 5 p. Maximilian II. A digital sign informs you when your tour is ready. then Bavaria’s crown prince. Queen Maria of Prussia. Tours in English are available throughout the day. especially in August.) The royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein are the most popular tourist attractions in Germany. is the less remarkable and more intimate of the two. To save yourself time. On some days. parking costs 4€ ($5).Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 299 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air Located 116km (72 miles) southwest of Munich. Finding information and buying tickets Information about both castles and the region in general is available in Schwangau at the Kurverwaltung (tourist office) in the Rathaus. You can see the castles only on guided tours.000 people visit. the two Bavarian royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein (and the nearby town of Füssen) mark the end of the Romantic Road.

he is “the dream king. Ludwig grew bored with the affairs of state and eventually became more and more obsessed with acting out his extravagant fantasies. From Marienbrücke. and in 1886.m. The most famous of his design efforts is the turreted castle of Neuschwanstein. is open daily. Born in Munich in 1845. he was declared insane. to 6 p. The bus ride.” For others.m. he often had Wagner’s operas performed for his own solitary pleasure. At Linderhof. For many years. costs 3. Biographies. self-obsessed monarch has become one of the legendary figures in Bavarian history.80€ ($2. 30-minute climb from the parking lot at Hohenschwangau Castle. October 16 to March 14 hours are 9:30 a. named for the wall paintings depicting the saga of Lohengrin (a Germanic hero associated with the swan). is one of the castle’s most attractive chambers. plays.m.50€ ($4. who was first invited to Hohenschwangau by a teenaged Ludwig. A more picturesque way to reach Neuschwanstein is by horse-drawn carriage. which starts in front of the Schlosshotel Lisl near the parking lot. and blue-eyed.25). Hohenschwangau. the walk to the castle entrance includes a steep. Was he murdered or did he commit suicide? No one knows. and the grand piano on which the two played duets. 170-step stairway and takes about ten minutes. handsome. perched on a crag high above the town of Schwangau. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults and 8€ ($10) for students and children 6 to 15.” later in this chapter). Tall.. Ludwig II is “the mad king. March 15 to October 15 hours are 8:30 a. along with the physician who had declared him insane. Ludwig went so far as to reconstruct the Venus grotto from Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser.40) for the trip up to the castle . at age 41. Ludwig II was only 18 years old when he was crowned king of Bavaria. which begins at the ticket office. films. The carriage ride. to 4 p.” This strange. The crypt of the Michaelskirche (St. and even a musical have been written about him. Alpseestrasse (% 08362/81127). the extravagant dream king financed Wagner. Ludwig’s excesses eventually threatened to bankrupt the kingdom.m. Michael’s Church) in Munich contains Ludwig’s grave and those of other Wittelsbach royals. costs 1. Richard Wagner. you can take a bus to Marienbrücke. Exploring Neuschwanstein Reaching the castle entrance involves a steep 800m (1⁄2-mile). If you don’t want to walk. A patron of the composer Richard Wagner. The Hall of the Swan Knight. Three days later. the first palace that he built (see “A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles. The music room on the second floor contains copies of letters between Ludwig II and his musical idol.300 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Ludwig II: Madman or dreamer? For some. a bridge that crosses over the Pöllat Gorge and offers a panoramic view of the castle dramatically perched on its crag above. he was found drowned in Lake Starnberg on the outskirts of Munich.

. the Sängerhalle (Singer’s Hall) takes up almost the entire fourth floor of the castle. to 6 p. Ludwig watched the construction of his dream palace through a telescope from neighboring Hohenschwangau. free for children ages 6 to 14. after Wartburg castle in Eisenach. Architects modeled the room.m. contact the Verkehrsamt (tourist office) in Schwangau (% 08362/81980).50€ ($1. A 20-minute film about the life of Ludwig II is shown in an auditorium. Between 1884 and 1886. a mural depicts the legend of the doomed lovers Tristan and Isolde. the site of song contests in the Middle Ages. another architectural fantasy.m. he received news of his dethronement. the castle can be visited year-round by guided tour only. you can make your way down to see the enormous kitchens of the castle. Located at Neuschwansteinstrasse 20 (% 08362/81035). from 10 a. A stairway of white Carrara marble leads up to the golden apse where the king’s throne was to stand. The sumptuous ornamentation seen throughout the castle influenced Jugendstil. Artisans carved wall panels to look like Gothic windows. the German form of Art Nouveau. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults. to 4 p. tours depart every half-hour from 9 a. From April through September. designed to look like a Romanesque basilica with columns of red porphyry and a mosaic floor. Paintings of Christ looking down on the 12 Apostles and 6 canonized kings of Europe decorate the walls and ceiling. The intricate woodcarving in the king’s bedroom took 41⁄2 years to complete. The throne room. Buy tickets from the bus driver or at the carriage. Wagnerian and other classical music concerts take place in the Singer’s Hall. stopping only when Ludwig died in 1886. Tickets go on sale in early June and always sell out quickly. At Neuschwanstein. Decorated with marble columns and frescoes depicting the life of Parsifal. Through the balcony window you can see the 46m-high (150-ft.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 301 entrance and 1.) waterfall in the Pöllat Gorge. the king lived in Neuschwanstein on and off for 170 days. October through March. Be aware that the carriages are sometimes crowded. with the mountains in the distance. Everything from curtains to chair coverings is made of silk embroidered with the gold-and-silver Bavarian coat of arms. was never completed. 8€ ($10) for children and students. The ornate bed rests on a raised platform with an elaborately carved canopy.m. In September. After you leave the guided tour. . The king’s study is decorated with painted scenes from the medieval legend of Tannhäuser.90) for the descent.m. Building began in 1869 and continued for some 17 years. Three days later he was dead. a mythical medieval knight. For information and reservations.

m. and Shrove Tuesday (the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday on the Christian calendar). and Saturday from 10 a. Otherwise. bahn. another in the Rathaus (town hall). to 5 p. and 31. you encounter no lack of restaurants (or hotels) right around the parking lot near Hohenschwangau. and Saturday from 10 a. For train information. one at Kaiser-MaximilianPlatz 1. December Staying in Füssen Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten. Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road Situated in foothills of the Bavarian Alps. to noon.hotel-hechten. Divided by the Lech River. The 35 comfortable rooms are small to medium in size.m. winter hours are Monday to Friday from 9 most have small . 87629 Füssen (% 08362/ 91600. Summer hours are Monday to Friday 8:30 a.) Getting there If you’re driving along the Romantic Road from Augsburg. this town of 15. when Füssen was a trading station. From Munich. This spotless guesthouse with blooming flower boxes exudes an air of old-fashioned Bavarian hospitality. Dining near the castles Neuschwanstein has a pleasant cafe where you can get sandwiches. (See the “Füssen” map in this chapter. January 1. 25.m. to noon.m. herring. www. you can eat outdoors on the terrace of Hotel Müller. soup. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/ 93850 for both. Finding information Füssen Tourismus operates two tourist offices. has been owned and operated by the same family for generations. 119km (74 miles) southwest of Munich and just 3km (2 miles) from where the restaurant serves sandwiches. Main courses go for 8€ to 16€ ($10–$20). Ritterstrasse 6. and beverages.000 inhabitants has lovely squares and narrow cobblestone streets flanked by medieval stone houses. Its history dates back to Roman times. take the A8 Autobahn west to Landsberg and then head south on B17. Trains from Munich (trip time 21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (trip time 5–51⁄2 hours) arrive frequently throughout the day. desserts. to 6:30 p. the medieval town of Füssen marks the official end (or beginning) of the Romantic Road. If the weather is fine.302 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Neuschwanstein is closed November 1. continue south on B17. www. or larger meals. Füssen is an atmospheric place to headquarter while exploring the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau or other places in the Bavarian Alps.m.

some have balconies. Schloss Hohenschwangau. Schwangau rsse Flo asse g . B m arotrkt F r a n zisk a n erg.hotel-helmer. Huterg.-Samer-Str .-MaximilianKapelle ellenberg Kap Am F gässchen nbach aule Flos serg asse S t a dtbl iche e Hamburg Berlin uer Strasse wanga S ch e lbachgasse trass Müh S r e l ro Ti 4 Mü hle nw eg Lec h GE R M A NY Frankfurt Munich Füssen ACCOMMODATIONS Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten 2 Feriengasthof Helmer 8 DINING Fischerhütte 1 Zum Schwanen 7 ATTRACTIONS Hohes Schloss 3 Kloster St.25 mi N Zi e l ge Bgm . Located in Schwangau. most have showers in r gs tras se i llner- Wachsb leiche Church I 0 0.-Mang 5 Lechfall 4 Museum der Stadt Füssen 6 shower-only bathrooms. Theresienstras se Bahnhof Bah Aug s iens Kar l- Ege rlan str.-SebastianKirche ALTER FRIEDHOF Fra nzi nerpla tz ska B ru nn e Kemptener Str. The hotel is located directly below the castle in Füssen’s Altstadt (Old Town). n Vo ZIEGELBERG 0 0. is a traditional Bavarian guesthouse with views of the mountains and nearby castles. Platz Se ba s ti a Schran n st nr ass gassne e e g asse i r. American Express.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 303 Füssen Information Post Office Railway inkel genstr. Kemptener Str. Mitteldorf 10. www. Feriengasthof Helmer. a small village about 4km (21⁄2 miles) east of Füssen. rstr. 2 3 e kt) riss Mo nmar e och W Mag nu sp l. 87645 Schwangau (% 08362/9800. Ritterstr.-Wa 1 der An dsaul Bil hhalde 8 To Schloss Neuschwanstein. be rg Tegel- Dr. Rack rates for a double room with buffet breakfast range from 74€ to 84€ ($92–$105). Augustenstra sse Schiess haus gas se sse trass e Mar nh of strass Sud e ete nst nstrass e Rudolf strasse -F Sonne a ass e e ss stra sse uiterJesa g s se Ga sse ngasse s tr ost Ott asse ras s Lu itp old s tr e Hoc re y be rg -St r KaiserMaximilian. Rupprechtstrasse Ziegelangerweg Schmid Sch lesie str. m er au er Rathaus 5 6 i Lec n t se d as 7 A Sta italg Sp d ( Dre he r Pfarrg. The rooms all are furnished differently. be Glü c Hin te re k A LT S TA D T hen Reic St. BAD FAULENBACH e strass Alatsee St. d- König-Lu dwi g-P hstif rom tstr en asse ad e bur ger stra str.25 km Str. and Visa are accepted.Sc hulhausstr.

French-style bouillabaisse.m. MasterCard. Hopfen am See (5km/3 miles northwest of Füssen. Kids enjoy the nearby pool and find plenty of room to play outside.m. Magnusplatz (% 08362/903-146).D. and portions are generous. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a. 1000.304 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the bathrooms. Rack rates for a double room with breakfast are 78€ to 108€ ($97–$135). Access to the secularized church complex is through the Museum der Stadt Füssen (City Museum). The powerful prince-bishops of Augsburg used the Hohes Schloss. North Atlantic lobster. to 9:30 p. 1–4 p.m. which occupies the former state apartments of the abbey and displays artifacts relating to the history and culture of the region. Admission is 3€ ($3. children younger than 14 free. MasterCard is the only credit card accepted.).75) for adults.-Mang (Monastery of St. A few meat dishes are also available. as a summer residence.m. at the edge of a small lake within sight of dramatic mountain scenery. to 5 p. roast pork.) and charges 3€ ($3. The restaurant is open daily from 10 a. Reservations are recommended. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. Now the castle is the home of the Staatsgalerie. (Nov–Mar. and 6:30 to 10 p. In the early 18th century. turned the church and monastery into a baroque gem with a strong Venetian influence. founded by Benedictine monks in the eighth century on the site where an Irish missionary monk named St. to 2 p. Zum Schwanen is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a. reached by a steep lane behind the parish church.75–$22). Diners can enjoy Bavarian specialties during the summer in an outdoor beer garden. Small and old-fashioned. Service is helpful and attentive.m. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($8. Immediately below the castle lies the Kloster St. Stay here if you want old-fashioned atmosphere. (Nov–Mar 2–4 p. Menu offerings may include Alaskan salmon. and Visa are accepted. American Express.m. Johann-Jakob Herkomer. Magnus died in 750. fresh local trout.m. Exploring Füssen Füssen’s main attraction is the Hohes Schloss (High Castle). and venison. Brotmarkt 4 (% 08362/6174). including a collection of locally produced violins and lutes. . Magnus). one of the finest late-Gothic castles in Bavaria. Main courses go for 11€ to 25€ ($ 14–$ 31). MasterCard and Visa are accepted. serves a flavorful blend of Swabian and Bavarian cuisine. where you find a collection of Swabian artwork from the 1400s to the 1700s. lamb. Dining in Füssen Fischerhütte. Uferstrasse 16.75) for admission.m. or grilled halibut.m. to 4 p. Specialties include homemade sausage.m. a local architect.m. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/903-145). Zum Schwanen. The Romanesque crypt in front of the high altar contains frescoes painted around A. % 08362/91970). specializes in seafood from around the world.

m. the fourth Winter Olympics took place here.m. and Sundays and holidays from 10 a. a waterfall less than a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) south of town. From Marienplatz. is a popular walk from Füssen. The . located where the Lech River squeezes through a rocky gorge and over a high ledge.bahn. and streets and lanes (particularly in Partenkirchen) with a quiet. touristy air of the is open Monday to Saturday from 8 the towns played host to the World Alpine Ski Championships. (See the “Garmisch-Partenkirchen” map in this chapter.) In 1936. the trip takes about one hour. Despite the commercial. A pedestrian footbridge spans the falls. Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren $ Partenkirchen Located in Partenkirchen.garmisch-partenkirchen. Garmisch’s main square. To reach GarmischPartenkirchen by car from Munich. The office supplies maps and details of area hikes and attractions. Two giant peaks. you can walk to all the centrally located hotels. www. you still find charming details: the sound of cowbells in the meadows outside town. Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze Located about 97km (60 miles) southwest of Munich. The trip time from Munich is about 11⁄2 hours. to 6 p. the twin villages of Garmisch and Partenkirchen comprise Germany’s top winter-sports resort. rear up to the south of town. Getting there Trains run frequently from all directions to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. take the A95 Autobahn and exit at Eschenlohe. For information and schedules. Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoys a stunning location at the foot of the Wetterstein range. and in 1978. hiding Germany’s tallest mountain. Finding information The tourist information office at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2 (% 08821/180700.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 305 The Lechfall. Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen A free municipal bus runs every 15 minutes between the Bahnhof (train station) and Marienplatz. village atmosphere.m. this family-owned and -operated hotel offers cozy accommodations at moderate prices. to noon. the quieter side of town. the famed Zugspitze. the Alpspitze and the Waxensteine. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. The Bayerische Zugspitzbahn at Garmisch (% 08821/7970) provides rail service to the top of the Zugspitze and other local peaks.

Hotel Hilleprandt $ –$$ Garmisch This chalet. Ludwigstrasse 65. The hotel is close to the Zugspitze Bahnhof and the Olympic Ice Stadium. Am Kurpark 10.hotel-hilleprandt. musicians. The 13 rooms. and 5–10 p. Riffelstrasse 17. Gasthof Fraundorfer $ –$$ Partenkirchen BAVARIAN Visitors to Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoy this large restaurant because every evening yodelers. and a backdrop of forest-covered mountains. Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a center for winter sports. % 08821/9270.m. % 08821/59055. and dancers provide Bavarian entertainment. See map p. AE. Ludwigstrasse 24. Rates: 78€–112€ ($97–$140) double. Children younger than 6 stay free in their parents’ room. The food is hearty and uncomplicated: potato soup with wurst. Fax: 08821/74548. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). try a soufflé. .306 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 25 rooms are comfortable without a lot of frills. some with a private balcony. See map p. MC. V. V. is an excellent budget choice. with wooden balconies.m.m. MC. % 08821/943040. ham hocks with sauerkraut. www. each has a small bathroom with tub or shower. MC. pork cutlets. 307.vierjahreszeiten. enjoying the panoramic views of the Alps and the colorful buildings that line the side streets. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). Rates include buffet breakfast. See map p. Open: Daily except Tuesday 11 a. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. DC. Fax: 08821/18974. are small but very comfortable. an outdoor terrace. V. AE. Traditional Bavarian and Mediterranean specialties are on the menu. See map p. and duck. For dessert. 307. Reservations recommended. Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Alpenhof $ –$$ Garmisch BAVARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Locals regard the Alpenhof as one of the finest restaurants in Garmisch. and mountain climbing. The best way to explore this international resort is simply to stroll around the town and its environs. Open: Daily 11:30 a. Rates: 70€–90€ ($87–$112) double. V. a pretty garden. Rates include buffet breakfast. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. summer hiking.m.m. Reservations recommended. It’s a touristy scene but fun. The tiled bathrooms have either showers or tub-shower combinations. 307. www. Closed 3 weeks in % 08821/9130.–11:30 p. MC. grilled salmon.–2:30 p. and ragout of venison. and so are fresh trout.

Pr rs t ei n str. r. om rk Platz a p m Am K u r er s 1 Marien. lst t st S t.m. M H au p t- P h il o Mü winkelst r. gst er te chna ar tin -S Sc ho en str.m.) above Garmisch-Partenkirchen and accessible only by foot (the climb is strenuous). with two ski jumps and a slalom course. alst lent r. - rt Ma Bayerische Str.628 ft. mst up str. fstr nho Bah Ol y m Ach tr.. Like the ice stadium. s trasse fs ho hn Ba tr. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults.M To Zugspitze Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt Munich Built for the 1936 Winter Olympics.S To Jagdschloss Schachen/ Eckbauer/ Partnachklamm Gorge tr.Kongresshaus . str 5 eld r.2 km 0. 6 ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Hilleprandt 2 Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren 5 DINING Alpenhof 1 Gasthof Fraundorfer 4 ATTRACTIONS Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum 3 Olympia-Skistadion 6 Church Information i Post Office Railway 0 0 0. ar tin s str. 1. enjoy nature. tr. 2.688m (5. this ski facility opened in 1936 and remains an integral part of winter life in Garmisch.20€ ($2. Zugspitzbahn inlstr. is the Jagdschloss Schachen Kr a ig s dw Lu str. ru g PARK ch Von-B h i c isa Richard. rst ad Lo Z ug r. One hiking destination. burgHinden s trasse s o p henw e nch g sse stra ne r.En Lo zianen Kurhaus Straussstr.Chamonix. On the slopes at the edge of town is the Olympia-Skistadion (Olympic Ski Stadium). str. enf a int Re Ha . People come from around the world to roam the mountain paths (called Hohenwege.000 spectators. Bahnhof Par tn ch tna Pa r ch a u a ss ra A lps p it z e - ü ll e z-M Frit r eito Dr Garmisch-Partenkirchen str.75) for children 6 to 15. % 08821/753-294) in Garmisch contains three giant skating rinks with stands for 12. to noon (also 2–4 p. p ia Klam tr. or “high ways”).St str. The ice rinks are open to the public daily (except from the middle of May through June) from 10 a.2 mi .Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 307 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Herbst Alte Kirche Bu rgstr. Rathausplatz str. r n st Höl r. the Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum (Olympic Ice Stadium. KUR. Riffe 2 3 Kla mm str. t s r platz z t spi et W rt Pa isa e s tr. and watch animals in the forest. Alpine hiking is a major summertime attraction. . on Sat and Sun). wig L ud 4 n So nb ne r. The World Cup Ski Jump takes place here every January 1. St . spitz r.

The tourist office in GarmischPartenkirchen (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) can supply further details.m. where you find extraordinary panoramas.m. You can choose between two different ways to reach the Zugspitze from the center of Garmisch.960m/9. which departs from the back of Garmisch’s main railway station daily every hour from 8:35 a.. Bavarian folk music and dancing take place every Saturday night in the Bayernhalle. The Eibsee Sielbahn makes runs every half-hour from 8:30 a. The only way to see the lodge is by guided tour (in German only). You need about four hours to get there and back. to the Zugspitzplatte. 2 p. in July and Aug). Total travel time to the top is about 55 minutes.m. a hunting lodge built by Ludwig II. and 27€ ($33) for children ages 6 to 15.. 1 p. the cable car carries you to the Zugspitzgipfel.m.m. from early June to early October. contact the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn. Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/797-900. a cafe and restaurant. the “dream king. given at 11 a..720 ft. The exterior of the lodge resembles a Swiss chalet. past giant boulders and rushing streams. Germany’s tallest mountain (2. The round-trip fare is 44€ ($55) for adults. Check with the local tourist . and many alpine trails. The stop is next to an alpine lake and clearly marked. A family ticket for two adults and one child costs 100€ ($125). free for children younger than 14.).de). The train travels uphill. you can go all the way to the summit of the Zugspitze. a gift shop. to 2:35 p. (5:30 p. the Garmisch park bandstand plays host to classical concerts Saturday through Thursday. you transfer onto a cable car. these concerts move to the Partenkirchen bandstand. www. From here. for a four-minute ride uphill to the Zugspitzgipfel (summit). and 3 p. At the Zugspitzplatte.m. For more information. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. On Friday. A round-trip ticket enables you to ascend one-way and descend the other for the widest range of spectacular views. During the same season. The entire trip takes about 40 minutes. Olympiastrasse 27.zugspitze.m. Brauhausstrasse 19. a high plateau with sweeping views. disembarking 14km (9 miles) southwest of Garmisch at the lower station of the Eibsee Sielbahn (Eibsee Cable Car). to 4:30 p. Ascending the Zugspitze For a spectacular view of the Bavarian and the Tyrolean (Austrian) Alps. Discovering the local nightlife From mid-May through September.m.m. both involving a ride on a cog railway and a cable car: ߜ The first way begins with a trip on the Zugspitzbahn (cog railway).308 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08821/2996). but the king insisted on an elaborately fanciful Moorish-style interior. ߜ The second way to get to the summit of the Zugspitze is to take the Zugspitzbahn for a shorter trip. the Gletscherbahn.” in 1871. 32€ ($39) for youths 16 and 17.

Prices start around 11€ ($14) and go up to 5. Know before you buy that even some of the most expensive “handmade” pieces may have been carved by machine prior to being finished off by hand. and in reverse. 16-act drama depicting Christ’s journey to the Cross every decade since 1680 (the last was in 2000. take E533 north and turn west onto B23 at Oberau. takes you to Schloss Linderhof . Competition is fierce for sales of local woodcarvings made in hamlets and farmhouses throughout the region. The cast for this religious epic numbers in the hundreds. Oberammergau has been famous for its woodcarvers and Hinterglas artists since the 15th century. animals. Dorfstrasse 27 (% 08822/821). everything from small figures of saints for 54€ ($67) to jumping jacks with movable legs for 36€ ($45).500m to 1. an art form unique to Bavaria. If you’re looking for authentic woodcarvings.110€ ($6.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 309 Oberammergau: Woodcarvers and Passion plays An alpine village located 20km (12 miles) north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Every ten years. A shuttle bus runs back and forth between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau daily.800m (5. the next will be in 2010).000. Performances take place in the Passionspiel Theater. a valley flanked by 1. Actors must be natives of or have lived in the town for at least 20 years. and folkloric figures. pine. office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) for details about these programs. the following stores are reliable: ߜ Holzschnitzerei Franz Barthels. and parts of Austria. is painting done directly on glass. Actors first performed the famous Passion play in Oberammergau in 1634 when the town’s citizens took a vow to give thanks for being spared from the plague.) peaks. the next one will be held in 2010. If you’re coming by car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. has the most-sophisticated inventory of woodcarvings crafted from maple. Most of the carvings are of religious scenes. Hinterglas (behind glass) painting. Passionswiese 1 (% 08822/92310). and linden. ߜ Tony Baur. A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles A scenic drive through the Emmertal. but you also find drinking or hunting 6. the composer lived in Garmisch from 1908 until 1949. Schnitzlergasse 4 (% 08822/4271). a crowd from around the world converges on Oberammergau to see the Passionspiele (Passion Play).000-ft. Croatia. Locals have performed the 51⁄2-hour. The twin towns also play host to a Folklore Week in early August and a five-day Richard Strauss Festival in June.388). sells a wide range of carvings.

(See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. King Ludwig II decided to redesign this former royal hunting lodge to resemble the Petit Trianon at Versailles. inspired by the famous Blue Grotto at Capri.50).m. to 4 p. A guide will meet your group outside the castle. October through March. When your time arrives. 5€ ($6. fanciful buildings. mirrors. Linderhof is an extremely popular tourist attraction.linderhof. the Grotto and other park buildings close.m. thanks in large part to the beauty of its natural setting in the Ammerberge range and its formal French gardens. which had artificial waves. The parking fee is 2€ ($2. The rustic lodge was transformed into a small. Winter admission is 6€ ($7. Linderhof is not without charm. You can see the palace only by guided tour. including the Grotte (Grotto). Exploring Schloss Linderhof In 1869. feed your ticket through the electronic turnstile to gain entrance. take the Munich–Garmisch Autobahn (A95) south. the most elaborate of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale palaces. swan-shaped boat. to 6 p. For all its ostentation. . with stalagmites and stalactites dividing the cavelike room into three chambers. 6€ ($7. A sign at the front of the palace tells you what group is currently being admitted.m. Your ticket has a specific entry time.50) for adults. The palace and grounds are open April through September daily from 9 a.25) for students and seniors.m. which is a riot of neo-rococo flashiness. but the castle is open daily from 10 a.75) for adults.) Getting there If you’re driving from Munich.50) for seniors 65 and older and for students. Built of artificial rock. so arrive early or you may have a long wait. and then drive for 13km (8 miles) on the signposted road. tours in English are available throughout the www. Ludwig kept two swans and a gilded. Admission in the summer is 7€ ($8. The ornate exterior is actually restrained when compared with the interior. Linderhof is open year-round and makes a wonderful daytrip from Munich or Garmisch-Partenkirchen. On the lake.. the Grotto contains an artificial lake fed by an artificial waterfall and a stage hung with a backdrop scene of the first act of Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. passing the hamlet of Graswang on the way.310 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08822/92030. The park contains several small. The original colored-light effects still illuminate the room. in which he was rowed about the lake. and crystal chandeliers. dazzling-white château overloaded with statues and decorations derived from many different periods and countries. glittering with gold leaf. turning west on B23 about 5km (3 miles) toward Ettal.

it’s called Lake Constance. Germany’s largest lake ᮣ Discovering the island city of Lindau ᮣ Exploring the Black Forest ᮣ Bathing in Baden-Baden ᮣ Wandering through the medieval town of Freiburg S outhwestern Germany is an area rich in scenic splendor.) Atmospheric old towns such as Freiburg share the forest setting with glamorous resorts like BadenBaden. you ask: the Bodensee or Lake Constance? Both names are correct. the countries that share its 258km (160 miles) of shoreline. sunny climate. Vineyards and fruit orchards thrive in the region’s mild. and charming old towns bask in the golden sun.Chapter 17 The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights In This Chapter ᮣ Enjoying the Bodensee. In this corner of the country. this 74km-long (46-mile) lake in the foothills of the Alps (elevation 395m/1. (See “The Bodensee [Lake Constance]” map in this chapter. one of the great lakes of Europe. you find the Bodensee. The Bodensee is Germany’s largest and Central Europe’s third-largest lake. The widest point is almost 14km (9 miles) across. Visitors to the Bodensee enjoy the warm climate and stunning scenery. On the north (German) shore.) is called the Bodensee. Looking south across the lake.300 ft. In Switzerland and Austria. and the legendary Black Forest. you . while towns on the lake bask in an almost Mediterranean balminess. vineyards slope down to crowded marinas. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) What is the proper name. In Germany.

or Old Town. snow-capped Alps. After you cross the causeway. to 6 p. Check with the tourist office in Lindau or contact Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. For information and train schedules. makes a good place to stay.) A profusion of gardens gives the town a quasi-Mediterranean air. turning south on B12 (Kemptenstrasse). flower-bedecked squares and a harborside promenade. stopping at Meersburg and Mainau. and Switzerland. Lindau is a popular tourist destination that feels a bit like an Italian resort. Finding information and taking a tour The Lindau tourist information office. A town of pretty. Lindau: Sunny island charmer The historic island-town of Lindau. www.bsb-online. because you won’t be able to drive into the historic Lindau is on a major rail line. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. Ludwigstrasse 68 (% 08382/260030. Monday through Friday 9 a.312 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany see the towering. Fierce winds from the mountains occasionally whip up the waters of the Bodensee.m. you can travel by boat to towns in Austria and Switzerland and to Konstanz on the western side of the lake. and Zurich. Getting to Lindau Lindau is one of the Bodensee’s major transportation hubs. Lindau. the entire trip takes three hours. Saturday . across from the train station. www. Konstanz (% 07531/ 3640-398). you can get direct connections to Lindau from Munich. From Lindau. and the train station is right in the Altstadt across from the harbor.m. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. You even find subtropical vegetation growing in sheltered gardens. Day and overnight tickets for car parks can be purchased from ticket machines. follow B310 and B308 west. was founded in the ninth century. A road bridge and a causeway for walkers and trains connect the town to the mainland. Prague. located 179km (111 miles) southwest of Munich at the northeastern corner of the Bodensee. a lovely island city on the northeastern shore. If you’re driving from Füssen. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. Schützingerweg 2. occupies a small island in the lake (accessible by a causeway). and for hundreds of years the town was a center of trade between The Altstadt. take the A96 Autobahn and then B31 into Lindau. the newer part of Lindau spreads out to the mainland. So many historic buildings line its narrow streets that the entire town is a protected landmark. Basel. By car from Munich. By train. and Hafenstrasse 6. is open April through October. but for the most part the lake is placid. park in one of the large car parks outside the Altstadt.. Several ferries per day link Konstanz with Lindau.

0 5 mi 5 km B34 0 Weingarten Ravensburg Ferry Üb erl ing er Se Überlingen Markdorf B32 B33 e B31 Radolfzell G E R M A N Y To Munich Airport E43 E54 Zelle rsee Mainau Immenstaad B30 B31 Reichenau Untersee Tettnang Eriskirch B467 Gn B33 ade nse e Meersburg Wangen B12 Konstanz Friedrichshafen B32 D EN M AR K MA RK B o Kressbronn B12 Hamburg d Langenargen Deutsche Alpenstrasse Berlin Romanshorn e n Wasserburg Lindau B308 B308 POLAND N E TH . . NET H. GERMANY s e e BE L. REP. am Main Frankfurt Arbon CZECH C ZECH RE P. LU X. A US TRIA AU S TRI A . S W I T Z E R L A N D Rorschach Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest R ANCE F RANC E Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Staad Bregenz A U S T R I A The Bodensee (Lake Constance) 313 S WI SW ITZ TZ. BEL . L UX.

part of the same management. All three buildings share a lakefront garden with sunbathing areas. . Fax: 08382/ 4133. Some open onto a rear balcony. For information on boat trips around the Bodensee. The Reutemann has large rooms and bathrooms with showers and big tubs. More luxurious is the adjacent Hotel Bayerischer Hof. to 4 p. call Taxi-Ring-Zentrale (% 0800-60066666) or Lindauer Funk-Taxi (% 08382/4455). 315. The Lindau Stadtbus (city bus. so hotels in all price categories are available. MC. two connected buildings with 64 rooms between them. Its harborside kiosk has excursion information and timetables. Hotel-Garni Brugger $ Altstadt This welcoming 23-room hotel. located right on the harbor promenade. If you want a The Seegarten has flower-filled balconies and spacious rooms. The location is an easy walk from the lake and casino. outdoor pool. Rates include continental breakfast. V. and sauna. fitness center. AE.m. Rates: 86€–92€ ($107–$115) double. some with lake views. The décor is modern in both. is flat and easily walkable.m. contact BodenseeSchiffsbetriebe (% 08382/2754810). The small.hotel-garni-brugger. The group meets in front of the tourist office. www.m.m. The rooms are up-to-date and furnished in a functional. Staying in Lindau Lindau is a tourist-oriented resort town. DC. Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten $$ –$$$$ Altstadt One of the nicest places to stay on the Bodensee is the upscale lakeside Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten. % 08382/93410. modern style with lots of light. from April through October. tiled bathrooms have showers (two rooms have tubs and showers). Larger rooms with small sitting areas are in an older building (a glass-roofed conservatory connects the two)..m. comfortable. to noon and 2 to 5 p. November through March. the cost is 4€ ($5).314 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Sunday 9:30 a. the island part of Lindau.m. 88131 Lindau. Getting around Lindau The charming Altstadt. is the best affordable choice in Lindau. You can join a guided walking tour on Monday (in English) or Tuesday and Friday mornings (in German) at 10 a. Monday through Friday 9 a. See map p. % 08382/704-242) provides halfhourly service to all parts of Lindau daily from early morning until 10:40 p. located at the end of the causeway. Bei der Heidenmauer 11.

iespl P arad Z e pp e l in fpl at Hamburg Berlin 19 Se e ha f e n Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest ATTRACTIONS Altes Rathaus 10 Diebsturm 7 Löwenmole 19 Mangturm 17 Maria Himmelfahrt 14 Neuer Leuchtturm 20 Peterskirche 8 Römerschanze 18 Spielbank 6 Stadtmuseum 12 Stadtpark 4 St.1 km Eisen ba ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Bayerischer Hof 15 Hotel-Garni Brugger 5 Hotel Reutemann/ Hotel Seegarten 16 hnda 3 Ch e Rollschuhplatz Heidenm lle s-A lle e Rotkreuz Platz 4 DINING Hoyerberg Schlössle 2 RestaurantWeinstube Frey 9 Zum Sünfzen 11 8 rgeebe e Schn gass Au GROLL f W de ANLAGEN all m OSCAR- 6 Thiersch strasse gstr asse au asse er 5 zigerstr Zwan Auf der Mauer Alter Schulsse Schmiedga platz 13 r Grub e d n I er Kirchplatz msse MarktCra ga 12 platz 14 A L T S T A D T Stiftsplatz Strasse 11 Bindergasse sse stra g.0 0. erg rb Fä Sch ütz Lu Hauptbahnhof z S ro eep n ho eg i 15 me dw ig ing erw s tr se as Brettermark Rüberplatz t 16 na de 17 18 Bu rgga sse Dreierstrasse ertu en Hintere Insel Ludwigstra sse rmw Ba h eg Reichsplatz Ling teg msse Dam gas Pulverturm - Uferweg nilia 9 xim Ma 10 Fi s c her- Barfüsserplatz ga s s e 7 Schrannenplatz . Stephan 13 Strandbad Eichwald 3 Strandbad Lindenhofbad 1 20 Information i G ER M ANY Frankfurt B o d e n s e e Lighthouse Post office Railway Munich Lindau Lindau 315 . Kron ngasse e . mm Kru elg Ins Pulv rab Da mm g.1 mi 1 mm K l e i n e r S e eb rü ck e 2 Se e 0 0.

Hotel Bayerischer Hof 152€–291€ ($190–$364). AE. not required in the cafe. . 315..m. Reservations required in the restaurant. 315. to pepper steaks. Fresh fish from the Bodensee is a specialty. DC. Menu offerings vary seasonally but may typically include cream of scampi soup. See map p. 315. DC.bayerischerhof-lindau. take Langenweg and Friedrichshafener Strasse northwest to Hoyerbergstrasse. MC. Main courses: 22€–35€ ($27–$44). You can dine inside or out. www. and 6–10 p. at Lindau-Aeschach.316 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Children younger than 10 stay free. Open: Daily 11 a.–11 p. MC. Rates: Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten 116€–210€ ($145–$262) double. cafe Tues–Sat 2–4:30 p. Maximilianstrasse 15. and roast pork with homemade Spätzle to filet of venison. and saddle of venison with flour dumplings and French beans.m. AE. The first-floor cafe is more informal. AE. located on the mainland about a 15-minute drive from the Altstadt. See map p. Zum Sünfzen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/BAVARIAN This old restaurant at the east end of Maximilianstrasse serves good. You can drive to these hotels and park in the underground garage. with a view of the mountains and lake. and baby-sitting can be arranged.) % 08382/25295.m. Frey’s has outdoor tables on the pedestrian street and a small second-floor restaurant with a beamed ceiling and pleasantly old-fashioned ambience. 315. Closed Jan 15–Feb 28. % 08382/5865. Fax: 08382/915591. or spinach Spätzle (a potato-based pasta) baked with cheese and ham. Open: Daily 10:30 a.m.m. 88131 Lindau. has few rivals on the Bodensee.m. (From the causeway. dependable food at reasonable prices. and 5–11:30 p. trout baked in a potato crust. V. The breakfast buffet is an additional 16€ ($20). Meals here are a memorable experience. Main dishes: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Seepromenade.–2:30 p. MC. beef stroganoff. local perch stuffed with herbs. Fixed-price menus: 62€–79€ ($77–$98). You may want to sample the local Meersburger wines as you dine on chicken breast with raspberry sauce.m. V. Hoyerbergstrasse 64. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). Open: Restaurant Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. See map p. Dining in Lindau Hoyerberg Schlössle $$$$ Mainland CONTINENTAL The Hoyerberg Schlössle. Restaurant-Weinstube Frey $ Altstadt GERMAN The oldest Stubl (drinking and dining room) on Maximilianstrasse. See map p.m. Reservations recommended. Dishes range from schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). Maximilianstrasse 1. % 08382/9150. V. No credit cards. % 08382/5278.

the Peterskirche (St. Standing beside the Diebsturm on Schrannenplatz is Lindau’s oldest building. In a stately. You can climb up the narrow spiral staircase of the lighthouse (open daily 9:30 a. % 08382/ 944-073). houses the centuries-old town library (not open to the general public). Admission is 2€ ($2. is the most attractive on the whole of the Bodensee.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 317 Exploring Lindau Lindau is best enjoyed by simply taking a couple of hours to stroll around the Altstadt. Built around 1370 at the most westerly point of the old town wall. the town’s famous harbor.m..m.” that once stood beside the tower. A special attraction is the collection of mechanical musical instruments. glassware. At night. but in the 16th century the building received a Renaissance face-lift. 1000. orchestral instruments. In 1928. the church became a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of World War I. Peter’s Church. The museum is open April through September Tuesday to Friday from 11 a. Flanking the harbor entrance is the 19th-century Neuer Leuchtturm (lighthouse) and the Löwenmole.75€/$2. The museum contains a large collection of furniture (ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau).25) for a panoramic vista of the Swiss and Austrian Alps across the water. erected in 1422 and notable for its grandly painted facade of a princely procession. the Lutheran church on the left. and mechanical pianos. Successive eras saw the additions of other architectural styles. thousands of lights create a magical atmosphere around the harbor. The interior. the name derives from the laundry. a pillar with a sculpted lion (the symbol of Bavaria) looking out over the lake.. the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower).) Located almost directly across from the main train station.– 5 p.).50). open daily 9 a. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. The tower is not open to the public. you find the Stadtmuseum (Town Museum. has . to 5 p.. 18th-century baroque town house called the Haus zum Cavazzen. The interior walls have late-15th-century frescoes by Hans Holbein the Elder. silverware. to 5 p.m.–5 p.m. Saturday from 2 to 5 p.D. and historical toys. including barrel organs. St.m. or “mangle house. admission 1. Return to Maximilianstrasse and follow the street eastward to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). The building’s stepped gables are typical of the 15th-century Gothic style. A rectangular building with a flat wooden ceiling and a tall. the church was built around A. Continuing east on Maximilianstrasse and Cramergasse brings you to the Marktplatz (Market Square) with a pretty. Rising from the promenade at the edge of the harbor is the 13th-century tower called the Mangturm. flower-bedecked fountain in the center. paintings. Stephan. this round tower with projecting upper turrets and oriel windows once served as the town jail (hence its name). once used as a council hall.m. On the east side of Marktplatz stand side-by-side Lutheran and Catholic churches. and Sunday from 11 a. square tower.m. and sculptures.m. Located just north of Maximilianstrasse.m. tin and ceramic objects. completed in 1856. is the city’s most famous landmark. Lindau’s main pedestrian-only thoroughfare.

(See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. and a passport is required as proof of age. 2€ ($2. Taking a turn at the tables At Lindau’s glitzy Spielbank (shpeel-bank.m. Admission is 2. this beach charges 2. The bike-rental office.m.m. To reach it. the Catholic church on the right. something dressy. pronounced strahndbod) are open in summer Monday through Friday from 10:30 a.m.75) for adults. to 1 p. The biggest beach is Strandbad Eichwald (% 08283/5539). 1 or no. a smaller beach popular with families. Fahrrad-Station-Lindau (% 08382/21261). The third beach. Appropriate attire is a cut above casual: Men should wear a jacket and tie. you may want to stop at Mainau on your way to or from Freiburg in the Black Forest (see “Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books.50€ ($2) for children.m. Maria Himmelfahrt (Church of the Ascension). 4 to Alwind. Strandbad Lindenhofbad (% 08283/6637). 2€ ($2. The location is about a halfhour walk east along Uferweg.m.” later in this chapter). pronounced farahd) and go cycling along the shores of the Bodensee. is full of baroque decoration and has a frescoed ceiling.) If you’re driving through this part of southern Germany. you can play slot machines from noon to 2 a. or take bus no. and from 2 to 6 p.50€ ($3. Enjoying lakeside activities For as little as 10€ ($13) you can rent a bike (Fahrrad. 3 to Karmelbuckel. makes for a pleasant daytrip from Lindau. . Three lakeside beaches (a beach is a Strandbad. then bus no. Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau The island of Mainau. take bus no. 2 to Anheggerstrasse. Chelles Allee 1 (% 08382/27740). and women.50) for children. to 7:30 p.m. Admission is 2. you come to the waterside Stadtpark (City Park) with its modern Spielbank (casino). is located in Lindenhof Park on the mainland. is the most scenic area for biking.50€ ($3) for adults..318 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany a barrel-vaulted ceiling and a fairly bare interior.m. west of the causeway. on the mainland.m. in the train station. Admission to the beach is 3€ ($3. casino). Römerschanze (% 08283/6830).50€ ($3) for adults and 1. Continuing east from Marktplatz on Schmiedgasse. is located next to Lindau harbor in the Altstadt.25). and blackjack and roulette from 3 p.m. and Saturday from 9:30 a. The churches generally are open from 8 a. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m.50) for children. to 5 p.m. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. Lindenhofpark. with a grassy lakeside area and three heated swimming pools. to 2 a. famed for its subtropical gardens.m. on the mainland. to 8 p.m. to 7 p.

m. so check before boarding. and an exhibition on Lake Constance in the castle. which includes admission at Mainau. to 8 p. 3.. where palms and orange trees grow and fragrant flowers bloom year-round. the largest city on the Bodensee. The baroque castle that forms the centerpiece of the island once was a residence of the Knights of the Teutonic Order.. a roundtrip Kombiticket.–6 p. the Palm House. and game dishes in the fall. Count Lennart Bernadotte.m. citrus and fruit trees.m. orchids.) . which features seasonal specialties such as asparagus in the spring. chanterelle mushrooms in late summer. In to 11 p. hours are 7 a.90€ ($5) for children. Visiting the island of Mainau The semitropical island of Mainau. Mainau. and easily walk through Mainau. Generally. open 11 a.–8 p. The island’s culinary high point is the Schwedenschenke (% 07531/303-156. to dusk.m. 31€ ($25) for family (parents and children up to 15). and holidays. the Butterfly House.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 319 Getting to Mainau Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe.m. azaleas. Lindau (% 08382/2754810.2km (21⁄2-mile) crossing (one per hour through the night) to Konstanz. 11€ ($14) for seniors older than 65. Butterflies from throughout the world flit and flutter through the Butterfly House. not all of them stop at Mainau.m. you can park and leave your car in Meersburg. the current owner of this 110-acre botanical wonderland. costs 31€ ($39).m. Service is less frequent on Saturdays. hop on the ferry. lies 6km (4 miles) north of Konstanz. This is the best (and only) way to see Mainau. and roses in the summer fill the gardens. Admission includes the gardens. the Rose Garden. You can also drive west from Lindau to Meersburg. and the Orangery. Admission is 12€ ($15) for adults.m.) and the Castle Café (open 11 a. because cars are restricted on the island. Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden purchased the island as a summer residence.m.m. Schützingerweg 2. and Konstanz. From March 24 through October 24. Palms. in an arm of the Bodensee known as the Überlingersee. From April through mid-October. rhododendrons. A one-way fare from Lindau to Mainau is 11€ ($14). and catch a car-ferry to Mainau.m. several places on the island are open daily for dining or a quick snack.bsb-online. Casual dining options include the Butterfly Bistro (open 10 a. two ferries per hour make the 4. tens of thousands of tulips in the spring. on the lake’s north shore. provides daily passenger service by boat between Lindau.). www. Sundays. The island’s gardens are open daily year-round. A passionate plant lover.–10 p. gardens that his great-grandchild. he laid the foundations for the Arboretum. would later develop. Contact Autofähre Konstanz-Meersburg (% 07531/803666) for information and schedules. winter hours are 9 a. The island has a Mediterranean luxuriance that invites leisurely strolling. from 8:30 a. If you’re driving.

) For the Germans themselves. and the medieval university town of Freiburg. which serves as a boundary with Switzerland to the south and France to the west. Give yourself at least two hours to explore and enjoy the island. One of the most popular auto trips is from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt on the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse (Black Forest High Road. Having a car opens up more of the countryside. The famous cake is one of the specialties of a region that’s something of a culinary crossroads. which runs almost the entire length of the forest. . Villages with half-timbered buildings. long associated with legends. come to two cities in particular: Baden-Baden. If you want to sample other regional specialties. which dominates the southwestern corner of Germany. Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart). meat and fowl dishes with creamy sauces. and pretty spots where stressedout city dwellers take die Kur (the cure) at health resorts fill the pineand spruce-filled forest. Visitors with limited time generally skip the area’s cure and sports aspects and focus instead on the scenic pleasures of the Schwarzwald. legend-filled forest is a favorite place to spend holidays outdoors. B500). runs parallel to the Rhine. by train. The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Travelers to the Schwarzwald (schvahrtz-vald). call % 07531/3030 or visit From cake to sausage: Black Forest treats Maybe you’ve heard of that famous thick. The Black Forest. hiking trails. amid nature. however. You can easily reach Baden-Baden and Freiburg.000 years ago. The name “Black Forest” is a translation of the Latin Silva Nigra. look for Zwetchgentorte (plum pastry). You can explore the Black Forest in many ways. Schwarzwald Schinken (Black Forest smoked ham). Most restaurants make their own Hauswurst (sausage) and guard the recipe. chocolatey cake flavored with cherry preserves and called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cherry Cake).320 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For more information. the mountainous. or Black Forest. fairy tales. a spa resort with thermal waters and an elegant casino. the name given to the forest by Romans some 2. the two towns I recommend as overnights. about 145km (90 miles) long and 40km (25 miles) wide. The forest’s proximity to France and Switzerland has influenced the cooking you find in many Black Forest restaurants. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. Why did they call it that? Because from a distance the dark green pine and fir trees look black. and wild game such as venison and boar. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) adjoins the forest to the east. and cuckoo clocks.mainau.

Peter Schwenningen St. Märgen 500 A864 31 Donaueschingen Titisee Hüfingen Löffingen Schauinsland Hinterzarten Feldberg Bernau Lenzkirch Blumberg Bonndorf 314 Belchen Todtnau 317 Schluchsee 500 Häusern Kandern A5 Zell im Wiesental Hornberg A98 Hamburg Berlin A35 WaldshutTiengen E GERMANY Frankfurt am Main C Lörrach Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Rh Pratteln SWITZERLAND FR Basel Döttingen in e AN .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 321 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Durmersheim 0 10 mi Haguenau M er Brumath Weyersheim 36 A4 Canal de la Marne au Rhin Willgottheim Marlenheim Rheinau 500 Rh ine Pfaffenhoffen N 0 10 km Bouxwiller Mountain Malsch To Pforzheim Kuppenheim Gaggenau BadenBaden 462 294 Strasbourg Molsheim A840 A35 3 od To Calw A5 Bühl Achern Raumündzach Oberkirch 28 Barr Neuried 36 Offenburg FRANCE in 83 Freudenstadt Rhine Rh Gengenbach Ettenheim 3 500 462 du Selestat Rh ône I ll au Alpirsbach Zell am Harmersbach Wolfach Waldmössingen nal 468 Ca Elsenheim Muntzenheim Herbolzheim Kenzingen 294 33 Hornberg 462 Dunningen Zimmern Triberg A5 Waldkirch Kandel Triberger Wasserfälle Furtwangen A81 Freiburg im Breisgau Hirtzfelden Bad Krozingen Staufen Badenweiler 3 St.

The thermal springs bubbling up from beneath the town have been healing aches and pains for more than 2. you take bus no. For those with a car. you can easily access a second tourist office outside the center. If you’re driving into town. Sun 9 a. and people still flock here to soak and be healed of various ailments and to try their luck in the famous casino. If you’re not into a health regimen or interested in gambling. It has a complete schedule of events and information on town and regional attractions. and the A8 Autobahn runs east–west. www. Even the Roman emperor Caracalla traveled to this part of the Black Forest to get some relief from his arthritis. about four hours.baden-baden.m. The horseracing season at nearby Iffezheim. takes place in August. about three hours. from Munich. you may find Baden-Baden a bit boring-boring.–6 p. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. and ride horses. and Sunday 2 to 5 p. The town has the most up-to-date spa facilities in Germany.m. Both offices offer a free hotelbooking service.m. Baden-Baden attracts many sports and outdoor enthusiasts.m. who come to hike. to 5 p. open Mon–Sat 9 a. Baden-Baden still evokes that aura of 19th-century privilege. golf. bahn. always available in front of the station. Kaiser Allee 3 (% 07221/ 275-200. In the 19th century. Located 174km (108 miles) south of Frankfurt in the northern portion of the Black Forest. 201 or a taxi.m. the A5 Autobahn between Basel and Frankfurt runs north–south through the entire region. from For train information. Finding information The tourist information office in the Trinkhalle. Trip time from Munich is about four hours. The personalities of the day — artists like Berlioz. The drive south from Frankfurt takes about two hours. on Schwarzwaldstrasse 52 (the B500 road into town. about 5km (3 miles) north of town. Brahms. is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. and Napoleon III gave the town a glamorous new aristocratic cachet.m). (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter.000 years.. To get into the center of town. one of the summer sporting events in Europe. The Bahnhof (railway station) is at Baden-Oos.m. play tennis. . European nobility and clients such as Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm I rediscovered Baden-Baden’s waters.322 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town Baden-Baden is one of the world’s most famous spa resorts. The composition of the slightly radioactive mineral water is almost the same today as when the Romans built the first bath complexes here in the third century.) Getting to Baden-Baden You can easily reach Baden-Baden by train from anywhere in Germany. connecting Baden-Baden to same phone.–1 p. and Dostoevsky — also helped to make Baden-Baden the most elegant and sophisticated playground in Germany.

Hir s Schloßs e trass r lmstr Wilhe . lstr LeopoldsInse platz ßs ch str 5 Marktplatz 2 Sc h l o Sol W er d er s tr a sse We rd ras erst se 10 Goetheplatz zs t r. r A .D ür e ras sse se t -S . Hindenburgplatz e rs tr. strasse 12 ichstras se Sephanie- Lichtentaler Allee ss e Oosbach Kais er- W il h elm - e LudwigWilhelmPlatz 14 1515 St ra r Fried lerst rass Schil 16 Gausplatz Bertholdstrasse Bertholdplatz e Frem r rgst rsbe asse Hamburg Berlin nel i Information 0.2 km Mi cha elstu n Lic ta en ht 0 0 GER M AN Y Frankfurt rA ll e e BadenBaden ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel am Markt 5 Der Kleine Prinz 15 Hotel Belle Epoque 16 DINING Der Kleine Prinz 15 Münchner Löwenbräu 4 Park-Restaurant 14 Peter’s Gute Backstube 7 Stahlbad 13 ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss 1 Caracalla-Therme 2 Friedrichsbad 3 Kunsthalle 11 Kurgarten 8 Kurhaus 10 Lichtentaler Allee 12 Spielbank 9 Trinkhalle 6 Ha Munich rd äc ke rs Mic haelstunnel e Lang Vin cen tist rass e ns is e Lu lee ral ise Ka e Sch iben sse stra V in c rasse tist en 9 8 R e t tigstras se Kr e u asse Merkurstr sse stra Eich 13 Hardstra s s e Lic 11 sse tra hte nta ler Str ass e Ludwig-Wilh e l m- S t ra sse le . t r. ass tr. str n i rS e Ste h ac Str 4 rnsb a sse tra Ge e Jesuitensse rass nst platz hie p o S 7 .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 323 1 Baden-Baden Sch ütze Sc ger sb os el hl nn Tu Festspielhaus La ng asse nstr We tz eS Leop oldst r tra asse t els Ka p rs t ra ine uz zin Gö tt ss e Ka pu eng . 6 m sstrass e i 3 e .2 mi 0. .

V. You can begin with assorted appetizers. V. go on to stuffed rabbit with mushrooms and homemade noodles. followed by a fish soup with dumplings. Bus no.hotel-am-markt-baden. Regional . MC. Münchner Löwenbräu $ –$$ GERMAN/BAVARIAN This restaurant serves simple. this 27-room hotel epitomizes the kind of small. move on to duck-liver parfait with salad. and the location on Marktplatz is quiet and convenient. you can walk everywhere. Bus: 201. A one-way fare is 2€ ($2. Many kinds of German sausage are on the menu with Bavarian specialties and a wide selection of cheeses. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. % 07221/27-04-0. AE. Fax: 07221/ 27-04-44.m. Rates include continental breakfast. MC. purchase tickets from the driver or from ticket machines at bus stops. connects the railway station to most of the sites in town. Hotel am Markt $ Clean. and finish with fresh strawberries and homemade ice cream. Rates: 58€–62€ ($72–$77) double with toilet only. 76530 Baden-Baden. Although there is nothing grand or glamorous about it. Main courses: 17€–29€ ($21–$36).50). 74€–80€ ($92–$100) double with bathroom. family-run hostelry you can still find all over Germany. and a meal in the intimate dining room served by the highly polished but friendly staff is a memorable experience. See map p. there’s a little cafe in front. Bus: 201. Staying in Baden-Baden See also Chapter 22 for descriptions of the outstanding Der Kleine Prinz ($$$–$$$$) and Hotel Belle Epoque ($$$–$$$$).324 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting around Baden-Baden After you arrive in Baden-Baden. Tasting menus: 57€–75€ ($71–$94). AE. Dining in Baden-Baden Der Kleine Prinz $$$ FRENCH/REGIONAL The restaurant in the hotel Der Kleine Prinz (“The Little Prince”) is one of the finest in the entire region. See map p. and 7–10 p. which runs at ten-minute intervals. www. the rooms are comfortable (not all have private bathrooms). and menu offerings change daily. Try one of the tasting menus. Lichtentaler Strasse 36. Everything is homemade from the best and freshest local ingredients.m. 323 In the hotel Der Kleine Prinz. Marktplatz 18. affordable. % 07221/3464. modest. and inexpensive. and well-prepared food in two settings: on a romantic terrace beneath linden trees or in an indoor dining room with curved glass walls. DC. 201.

m.m. and engravings.m. along with seafood and regional Rhine Valley foods.m. The emphasis is on French dishes. 323. Schillerstrasse 4. Gernsbacher Strasse 9 (in the Altstadt). V. Specialties include sautéed gooseliver. Duck in here for a breakfast of eggs and ham. Bus: 201. sandwiches: 3€ ($3. No credit cards. or a lunchtime sandwich. In Brenner’s Park Hotel. including prints. antique pewter plates. V. See map p. so it’s good to know about this inexpensive cafe on busy Leopoldsplatz. MC. See map p. try the apple fritters. Open: Mon–Fri 6:30 a. Baden-Baden isn’t a demanding town. warm gooseliver with Calvados sauce. AE.) The pace is relaxed. I also recommend stopping for a slice of afternoon Kuchen (cake). (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter. Main courses: 6.. % 07221/22311. try the lemon-grass mousse. and 6–10 p. Specialties include pepper steak and seasonal game dishes. % 07221/392-817. Sun 8 a. Main courses: Breakfast 5€–7€ ($6.25–$8. Sat 6:30 a. Open: Daily 10 a.50) is very good. Park-Restaurant $$$$ INTERNATIONAL/RHINELAND This fancy. DC.m.m. V. Sophienstrasse 10–12. % 07221/24569. Stahlbad $$$ –$$$$ CONTINENTAL/ALSATIAN In the center of town. to midnight.50€–18€ ($8–$22). this restaurant with a garden terrace is a tranquil and charming place to dine. Bus: 201. Pete’s can’t be beat for cheap. although the atmosphere is like a fast-food restaurant. Exploring Baden-Baden When it comes to tourist destinations. a slice of pizza. and grilled lobster and fish. Reservations required.m. AE.–7 p. See map p.. roast saddle of venison or lamb. and lobster salad. Augustaplatz 2. 323.m. copper vessels. % 07221/9000. Peter’s Gute Backstube $ PIZZA/LIGHT MEALS Restaurants in Baden-Baden tend to be pricey. The atmosphere and décor. 323.–7 p. mugs. Bus: 201. evoke an earlier era. Reservations required. the coffee (all you can drink for 2€/$ 2.m.75). Open: Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. Main courses: 15€–30€ ($19–$37). Bus: 201. DC. DC. with major museums and important historic sights that you must see. MC. quickly served food.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 325 devotees order pork knuckles fresh from the grill. AE. fresh fish. For dessert. Open: Daily 7–9:30 p. See map p. 323. The restaurant also has a popular beer garden. . For dessert. Main courses: 32€–42€ ($40–$52).75). high-priced restaurant in the glamorous Brenner’s Park Hotel is one of the renowned hotel dining rooms of Europe and received a Michelin star in 2006.–6 p.m.

you must possess a valid passport and be at least 21 years old. the building was a “Promenade House.10) for children 5 to 15. (The Russian writer Dostoevsky wrote The Gambler based on his disastrous experience at the tables here. English commentary is available on a headset.500). The site has remained the hub of Baden-Baden’s social scene ever is a sightseeing train that makes stops at all of Baden-Baden’s major attractions. and ornamental trees set along the bank of the narrow Oosbach River (called the Oos. in the vaulted cellars of the Kurhaus in attractive new rooms. used for receptions and galas. in operation for more than 200 years. www.” You can see for yourself by visiting the famous BadenBaden Spielbank (casino). the Kurhaus was turned into a “Conversation House. between 9:30 a.m. once remarked. I recommend that you visit one of the bath complexes (see “Bathing in Baden-Baden” later in this chapter) and then spend a couple of hours wandering through the Altstadt. the Caracalla Baths. At the north end of the promenade are the formally landscaped grounds of the Kurgarten and the neoclassical Kurhaus. Arrange in advance for tours in English. Originally. The City-Bahn (% 07221/991-998.m. Maximum bets are 10. You find slot machines.. The various casino rooms were designed in the style of an elegant French château. and gas lights lit and extinguished by hand every day. Fri–Sat). and noon (Oct–Mar 10 a. The time-honored center of activity is Lichtentaler Allee.m. Men must wear jackets and ties. and other games.50€ ($3. The Kurhaus does not. concert shell. . To enter the casino. lavish restaurant with a terrace overlooking the gardens with their shop-lined colonnades. poker. Tickets cost 5€ ($6. roses.m. The tour costs 4€ ($5). The train runs daily from 9:30 a. every 30 minutes.citybahn.) This casino is definitely not the kind of glitzy. classy evening wear. the right wing of the building is Baden-Baden’s casino (see the next paragraph). (until 3 a. and bingo machines. If you don’t want to gamble. to about 5 p. Marlene Dietrich. contain spa facilities. informal. blackjack. the glamorous German film star. Guests can play French and American roulette. you can take a guided tour of the historic gaming rooms daily.000€ ($12. Minimum bets are 5€ ($6.25). to 2 a. to noon). Lichtentaler Allee.m. Kaiserallee 1 (% 07221/21060). Admission is 3€ ($3. “The most beautiful casino in the whole world is in Baden-Baden — and I have seen them all. azaleas.” a place for more formal gatherings and events. and the left wing houses a large. one of the town’s most important buildings. slotmachine-haven you find in Las Vegas. baccarat. which also contain roulette. poker.75). Germany’s oldest casino. an elegant park promenade lined with rhododendrons.25) for adults and 2. In the 1820s. women.” where the rich and prominent came to see and be seen. making stops at the Kurhaus. pronounced ohs). as you may think.m. blackjack.m. The casino is open for gambling daily from 2 p. and other spots.326 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and the streets are geared toward pleasurable strolls and upscale shopping. a very recent addition.

thermal steam baths. The baths are open daily from 8 a. The Staatliche Kunsthalle (State Art Gallery).m. and whirlpools. a large hall built in the 1840s. Friedrichsbad. now is used as the main tourist office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Baden-Baden). Hochbaden was the seat of the margraves of Baden. you decide on your own bath regimen. which takes about three hours. Admission is 5€ ($6. The baths also have a sauna area. The Altes Schloss (Old Palace). American abstract expressionists. followed by a 30-minute period of rest and relaxation. you’d better understand what Mark Twain meant when he said. The slightly radioactive water. rich in sodium chloride. a ruined castle originally called Hochbaden (High Baden). (last admission is two hours before closing). late works by Picasso) bequeathed by Baden-Baden collector Frieder Burda.25) for adults and 4€ ($5) for students. Museum Frieder Burda. but the scene is au naturel in the saunas. dates back to 1877 and follows an ancient Roman-Irish bath method.m. working up to the warm water.m. completed in 1909. “Here at Baden-Baden’s Friedrichsbad you lose track of time in 10 minutes and track of the world in 20. From the 11th to the 15th centuries. slightly radioactive waters of Baden-Baden. you also find the Trinkhalle (Pump Room). . 29€ ($36) with soap-brush massage (31⁄2 hours).Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 327 In the Kurhaus gardens. At the CaracallaTherme (Caracalla Baths).m. and women and men share the pools. a brush massage. (Wed until 8 p. massages.m. Note: Clothes may not be worn in the Friedrichsbad. Bathers usually begin in cooler pools. two saunas. Medicinal treatment includes mud baths. and three freshwater baths ranging from warm to 60°F (15°C). Bathing in Baden-Baden Getting into hot water is what Baden-Baden is all about. where guests once sipped the salty. The building. to 6 p.m. You must wear bathing suits in the pools.m. The complete bath program. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-940). Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-920). You get a nice view of the town and the Black Forest from this fortresslike structure. a new building designed by Richard Meier and opened in 2005. Kaiserallee 3 (% 07221/275-200). Lichtentaler Allee 8a (% 07221/300-763). surrounded by an open walkway and decorated with frescoes depicting Black Forest legends. The facility has a bar and a cafeteria. involves a shower. bubbles up from artesian wells at a temperature of about 160°F (70°C).). is located on a hillside above town. The baths are open daily from 9 a. Admission is 12€ ($15) for two hours. to 10 p. The two buildings are open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a. After experiencing the Friedrichsbad. sits adjacent to the Kunsthalle and houses an impressive collection of modern paintings and sculptures (German expressionists. Admission is free.” Admission is 21€ ($26) for three hours without massage. showcases visiting contemporary art exhibits. to 10 p.

The women’s wear available at Escada Boutique. but a cool mountain breeze called the Höllentaler flows down into the town like clockwork twice every night between 7 and 7:30 and 9 and 9:30 p.000 students). carries women’s designs in loden-colored wool during autumn and winter.and honey-based products such as candles. wallets. and handbags. and ballets throughout the year. Freiburg enjoys the benefits of warm air currents that come up from the Mediterranean through Burgundy. Freiburg is the largest city in the Schwarzwald and considered to be its capital. and offers Austrian and Bavarian silks. Lichtentalerstrasse 13 (% 07221/31090). focusing on designers Giorgio Armani and Renee Lazard. Beim Alten Bahnhof 2 (% 07221/301-3101. In the summer. cooling things down. is a historical region stretching from the Rhine to the Black Forest.500-seat Festspielhaus (Festival Hall). where the inventory includes luggage. linens.festspielhaus. Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books With a population of about 200. the days can get very hot. Leather goods by Gold Pfiel and other manufacturers are sold at Inka. cosmetics. Herrenkommode. Only 111km (69 miles) southwest of Baden-Baden.m. Schwarzwald Bienen-Honig-Haus. plus many varieties of bottled honey. and other locally produced items can be found at Boulevard. The hall presents classical music concerts. Although surrounded by alpine scenery. opened in 1998. are part of a flower-flanked pedestrian zone. operas. now part of the German state of Baden-Württemberg but once part of the Roman Empire. Another shop. candies. The building is the second-largest opera and concert hall in Europe. The town is called Freiburg im (in) Breisgau to distinguish it from other German and Swiss Freiburgs. Cuckoo clocks. is created by one of Germany’s most emulated designers. this picturesque city with its medieval Altstadt nestles in a plain below high mountain schnapps. Freiburg bursts with . Langestrasse 38 (% 07221/31453). Discovering the performing arts in Baden-Baden Baden-Baden’s 2. lined with some of the most expensive boutiques in Germany. This is where you buy those elegant duds required to enter the casino. The Altstadt’s splashing fountains and shallow. and wine. puppets. www. Lichtentaler Strasse 21 (% 07221/24495).328 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Baden-Baden Sophienstrasse and Gernsbacher Strasse. Münchner Moden. and cottons during warmer months. Sophienstrasse 18 (% 07221/390-448). The best men’s store. fast-flowing streams called Bächle (little brooks) that run alongside the streets in stone-lined channels are ancient cooling systems. Breisgau.000 residents (and an additional 30.. Sophienstrasse 26 (% 07221/23955). Sophienstrasse 16 (% 07221/29292). is a bit more international. carries beeswax.

1 mi trass ma rk e Colombistr asse - Meria nstr a ss e Eise nba hnst Ga tte ckr ing se ph e Ro olds trass Ka ise r- Un s r s s s it ä t e Sedan - UNIVERSITÄT ivetra A L T S T A D T Gr ü Belfortstra sse Wi Ra m Martinstor pa v iktstr. Herrens trasse Bert . Joseph- rasse ras se Less ings tras se Kr on en str se as Erbprinzenstr. Hauptbahnhof stras Jak Bu obStrarckha sse rdt- Bis Ka strarlsse Rosa Friedrich ring se Leo pold STADTGARTEN ring Tu lhe lms tra sse l . and in autumn. fd er Zin ne n Scho ferstr . Holzm ark t on Gerberau Mün gass zSalz nwal e s t ra de r s t r ss e . Werderring Ma r i e n . Wine? Yes. at g a h a u ssse Rathausplatz Jo - Str as se rass e u c h- i R r mstr1 Sch iffs tr. 8 Augustiner- S ch los sb erg rin g strasse Platz der Alten Ber Synagoge toldstrasse str. Sc hu 2 3 Münsterplatz 4 6 Moltke ste 5 rs t r. sse tra ns e t r Ga Schreibe rstrasse Dr eis am Wallstrasse neggrin eiffe g Gr torring Schwaben Fa ule rst t st r a ss ALLEEe GARTEN r Strasse Ad e l hauserstr . And winegrowing always requires celebrations.600 acres of vineyards. str.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 329 Freiburg Kath strasarinense Heb stras else Meria nstr.1 km 0. on the last weekend in June. Mo zart st COLOMBIPARK Au i r. the smell of new wine fills the narrow streets even as snow is already falling on those nearby summits. the square outside Freiburg’s magnificent Gothic cathedral. surrounding the city are 1.s tr . In Freiburg. a four-day public wine-tasting festival takes place in the Münsterplatz. Hab stras sburgerse alle Fried richs Rheinstr e asse 0 0 0. more than you find near any other city in Germany. 7 11 platz 9 9 K SCHLOSSBERG Schwabentor In se 10 Augustinerweg Kartäuserstrasse Kaiser- Luisenst t r a ss Dreisams e Leo-Woh Strasse lebInformation Post office Railway Schillerstrasse ACCOMMODATIONS Rappen 3 Zum Roten Bären 9 DINING Oberkirchs Weinstuben 2 Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede 10 Zum Roten Bären 9 ATTRACTIONS Augustinermuseum 8 Erzbischöflisches Palais 5 Historisches Kaufhaus 6 Münster 4 Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Wentzingerhaus) 7 Neues Rathaus 1 Schlossberg 11 Hamburg Berlin GE R M AN Y Frankfurt Munich Freiburg springtime blooms while snow still covers the surrounding peaks.

m.m.m. to 7 p.) Getting to Freiburg Frequent trains connect Freiburg to Baden-Baden and other cities throughout Germany and Europe. Rotteckring 14 (% 0761/388-1880...bahn. has schedules and information. A oneway fare costs 2€ ($2. 20-room inn have smack-dab views of Freiburg’s mighty cathedral. to 8 to 2:30 p. Saturday 10 a. freiburg. to 5:30 p. The . to noon. to 6 p. Sunday 10 a. Wandering through its ancient streets is a pleasure at any time of year.m. Although the town was heavily damaged during World War II. If you’re traveling in the Black Forest. youthful edge to the old city. If you’re driving from the Bodensee (Lake Constance). and Saturday from 8 a. providing access to Freiburg. And in June. and exploring the sights in the surrounding Schwarzwald is easy and fun. low-key. to 2 p. Rooms are generally on the small side and simply but comfortably furnished. Monday through Friday 10 a.m. to noon. is easily walkable. a day ticket costs 4. For train information. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. For those coming by car. Their pre-Lenten carnival called Fasnet is one of the best in Germany.m. Salzstrasse 3 (% 0761/451-1500) in the Altstadt.m. the A5 Autobahn runs north–south through the Black Forest.. located right outside. the city plays host to the two-week-long Zeltmusik Festival (Tent Music Festival). The May Frühlingsmess (Spring Fair) and October Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair) both last ten days. The office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. from Staying in Freiburg Rappen $ –$$ Altstadt The best rooms in this charming. Weinkost is a long wine-tasting event in midAugust. where you find all the major attractions.m. Monday to Friday 10 a. Freiburg makes for an atmospheric overnight stay. is open June through September. October through May. Saturday 10 a. with performances in giant outdoor tents.75). with bonfires and parades. Finding information The tourist information office. including a bombing in error by the German Luftwaffe.330 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Festivals are a year-round part of life in Freiburg. and sells passes. Freiburg’s medieval charm has been preserved. www. Plus-Punkt. about eight hours..m.m. RVF (% 0761/207-280) operates the city’s bus and tram system. The large student presence adds a lively.m.60€ ($5.m.50). The train trip from Frankfurt takes about two hours. take B31 west. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. Getting around Freiburg The Altstadt. Sunday 10 a.

pea. provides good regional cooking and comfortable rooms. Münsterplatz 13. You find plenty of activity right outside the hotel on Münsterplatz. or Cathedral Square. This wonderfully atmospheric and unpretentious inn has only 25 rooms and one of the best restaurants in Freiburg for traditional Black Forest fare and regional wines from the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards (see the next section. Standing just outside the hotel is one of Freiburg’s medieval gateways. Reservations recommended. AE. Tram: 1. Rooms in the older section have more charm. 79098 Freiburg. MC.” is the oldest inn in Germany. Rates: 99€–110€ ($124–$137) double.hotelrappen.roterbaeren. Oberlinden V. site of a big weekday outdoor Rates: 145€ ($181) double. those in the modern wing have little balconies overlooking leafy gardens and red-tiled rooftops. 25 rooms all have private bathrooms or showers. DC. 329. and seasonal dishes like pheasant. www. % 0761/202-6868. Fax: 0761/382-252. poultry. meat dishes (veal schnitzel. 329. Fixed-price menus: 18€–21€ ($22–$26). The tavern sits on a small square flanked by a . pork filets in morel cream sauce). AE. Münsterplatz 22. www. AE. 4. or 5. See map p. Rates include breakfast. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt Zum Roten Bären. V. You can dine in the Weinstube (wine tavern) with its ceiling-high ceramic stove or at a table on the this Weinstube is the most picturesque and romantic spot in Freiburg. % 0761/31353. 79098 Freiburg. This place serves hearty portions of good. MC. Closed Jan. which means “At the Red Bear. See map p. 329. “Dining in Freiburg”). Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede $ –$$ Altstadt REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL For outdoor summer dining. % 0761/387-870. and 6:30–9:15 p. oldfashioned food: tasty soups (bean. Dining in Freiburg Oberkirchs Weinstuben $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This historic wine tavern on Freiburg’s busy Münsterplatz. including continental breakfast. V. All trams stop just behind the hotel. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2 p. with a pretty painted facade and a list of innkeepers that goes back to the 14th century. MC. or vegetable).m. See map p. DC. Doubles range from 126€ to 147€ ($157–$184). and the surrounding neighborhood is wonderfully picturesque. Main courses: 14€–25€ ($17–$31).Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 331 units with private bathrooms have showers. Rates include buffet breakfast. www. Above the Weinstube. 79098 Freiburg.

The menu presents a full array of wonderfully prepared dishes using local ingredients. The good food arrives in extremely large portions. This place is a good one for trying Zwiebel (onion) dishes. V. AE.m. a specialty of the region. where you can sample seasonal dishes. grown on the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards. site of Freiburg’s rose-colored Münster (Cathedral. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19).m. dating from the 13th century.m. 43€ ($54). Tram: 1.332 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rushing Bächle (little brook) and horse-chestnut trees. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL The “Red Bear” has one of the best kitchens in Freiburg and one of the most authentically atmospheric dining rooms. to 6 p. are in the south chancel. % 0761/387-870. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). . a salad with smoked lox. or tagliatelle with shrimps. but by the time the structure was completed in 1620.m. See map p. Admission to the cathedral is free.m. Gothic elements had been incorporated into the design. MC. supposedly a sign of the architect’s contempt for the city fathers. Fixed-price menus: 35€ ($44). and Sunday 1 to 6 p. This part of town is medieval Freiburg at its most appealing. Zwiebelschmelze is a spinach-and-vegetable-filled ravioli covered with sautéed onions. The cathedral was begun in 1200 in the Romanesque style. % 0761/35037. % 0761/ 202-790. and 6:30–11:30 p. an area bounded by the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) on the west side of the inner city. 329. A young Rivaner wine. Gargoyles peer down from the tower’s roof. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. or 6). In the hotel Zum Roten Bären. is one of the most beautiful in Germany. Tram: 4. The Spargelpfannkuchen is asparagus served with a special pancake. is a light. fruity accompaniment. the Dreisam river on the south. Open: Daily noon to midnight. A simpler Vesperkarte (late-evening menu) is available from 10 p. a magnificent openwork spire atop an open octagonal belfry. and Hollandaise sauce. MapInsel 1. 329. Exploring Freiburg Most of what you want to see is in the Altstadt. and a wooded hill called the Schlossberg on the east. 5. one of them with its backside turned toward the archbishop’s house across the square. one of Germany’s masterpieces of Gothic architecture.) All visitors eventually congregate in the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square).m. The chef’s daily recommendation may be cream of tomato soup. MC. Tram: 1. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 3 p. such as Spargel (white asparagus). V. DC. cooked ham. Its West Tower. Oberlinden 12 (just inside the Schwabentor). available in May and June. Give yourself at least two hours to stroll and poke around. The cathedral contains some superb stained-glass windows. the earliest. The building is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. See map p. to midnight.

On the west side of the square is Freiburg’s Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). A 14th-century Augustinian monastery with a yellow baroque front houses the Augustinermuseum (Augustinian Friars Museum). you can climb to the top of the Münster’s famous West Tower.. the other city gate. A trio of historic buildings stands along the south side of Münsterplatz. The mid-18th-century Erzbischöflisches Palais (Archbishop’s Palace) has a pale-yellow facade and an ornate wrought-iron balcony. November through March. when Freiburg was a walled city. You can see the Bächle running alongside many Altstadt streets. you will marry a person from Freiburg.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 333 The Bächle of Freiburg To help the town stay cool in the hot summer sun.. is still used as the town’s official reception hall. The Insel is the most picturesque quarter in Freiburg. surround it. comprised of two highly decorated 16th-century merchants’ houses connected by an arcade. Martin’s Gate). with narrow cobblestone streets and restored houses once used by fishermen and tanneries.m. They were first devised to keep the city clean and to help fight fires. Chestnut trees and a fountain add to the charm of Rathausplatz. Augustinerplatz (% 0761/201-2531). pointed-roof watchtowers and a 16thcentury gallery decorated with the statues of four Habsburg emperors. The third building to the left of the Historisches Kaufhaus is the baroque Wentzingerhaus. % 0761/201-2515). open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. another busy square just west of the cathedral. the chief attraction in the Insel . Paintings on the tower include one of St. East of the university you find the Martinstor (St. admission is 2€ ($2. The brooks channel water from the Dreisam River through the old university town. For a wonderful view of Freiburg and the distant mountains.m.m. dates from around 1200 and stands on the southeast edge of the Altstadt.m. The neighborhood around the Schwabentor is called the Insel (Island) because rushing streams. if you step in a Bächle. called Bächle. near the Schlossberg. to 5 p. Freiburg has many lovely old fountains and a unique system of streams called Bächle (little brooks) that date back to the 12th century. one of two surviving gates from the Middle Ages. From April through October. According to local folklore. built in 1761 for a local painter and sculptor and now home to the Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Town History Museum. the city’s patron saint. across from the cathedral. Sunday from 1 to 5 p.50). to 5 p.m. a Gothic customs and financial administration center with protruding. the tower is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a. The Schwabentor (Swabian Gate). George.. The oxblood-colored Historisches Kaufhaus (Historical Department Store). closed Monday.

From Titisee. Give yourself about 90 minutes for the gondola ride and a stroll on the summit. The roundtrip costs 6€ ($7. you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Black Forest and be back in time for dinner. you can climb 91 steps to an observation tower for a panoramic view toward the Feldberg..m. the Feldbergbahn (% 07655/8019). From the grassy summit you can see the Feldberg and other nearby mountains. another popular Black Forest lake. a famous mile-high peak. Inside you find a collection of religious art spanning more than 1. where another enclosed gondola.m. Along the way.40€ ($8) for adults. tile roofs in small villages.m. (You need about an hour to get to the falls and back. the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. you can see the highest peaks of the Alps to the south.m.) From Freiburg. pick up B317 west to Utzenfeld and follow the narrow road northwest to the Belchen.. takes visitors to the 1. and on a clear day. to 7 p.6km-long (1-mile) footpath to an impressive series of waterfalls.000 years.334 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Quarter.50€ ($5. Continue south to the hamlet of Todtnau. The round-trip takes about an hour.m. to 6 p. A new. you can return to Freiburg by heading west along B31.m. The cable car operates June through September from 10 a. The cable car operates daily from 9 a.50). enclosed gondola. head back north along B500 to Titisee. head south on Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse to Günterstal and follow the narrow. 4. From the Belchen. to 5 p. and the vast Rhine plain to the west. The roundtrip fare is 3€ ($3. Continue on B317 east and turn south on B500 to Schluchsee.50) for children.m. From the Schwabentor. one of the loveliest of the Black Forest lakes. takes you to the peak for one of the most spectacular views in the Schwarzwald. From the parking lot. October through January from 11:30 a. You can also ascend the Schlossberg by cable car (% 0761/39855) from the Stadtgarten (City Gardens). the Belchen Seilbahn. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. backtrack to Utzenfeld and follow B317 east to Feldberg.750-ft.) From Todtnau. . you pass some of the forest’s highest peaks and two of its most beautiful lakes.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. the cable car operates daily from 9:30 a. twisting road to Schauinsland.50) for adults.m. where you find a 1. Belchenstrasse 13 (% 07673/888-280). Driving through the Upper Black Forest From Freiburg.75). a nearby peak. to 4:30 p. a pathway climbs up the Schlossberg.450m (4. From Schluchsee. a hill that provides good views of the cathedral. Admission is 2€ ($2. to 5 p. The area also has easy hiking trails. the round-trip ride costs 6.m.m. green hillside pastures. 4€ ($5) for children.

his great-great-grandson is the current owner. Triberg. and Visa. music boxes. to 5 p.) You may also want to visit the Haus der 1000 Uhren (House of 1. Summer also brings a series of chamber-music concerts to the Historisches Kaufhaus. and America. a painter of clock faces.m.m. the museum has timepieces from all around the world and from all epochs. in Münsterplatz. Russia. Clock watchers with time on their hands may want to drive the Deutsche Uhrenstrasse (German Clock Road. and a program of organ recitals in the Münster. is a good place to go. clocks have been produced in the Black Forest. shops also sell woodcarvings. One of the most interesting museums on the route is the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum). ranging from classical music to theater to pop concerts. Triberg is one of the stops on this 320km (200-mile) scenic route through the Black Forest from VillingenSchwenningen to Bad Duerrheim. launched the business in 1824. MasterCard.deutsche-uhrenstrasse. 48km (30 miles) northeast of Freiburg on B33.m. to 5 p. The shop is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. In addition to the world’s largest collection of Black Forest clocks. Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1.000 Clocks). Discovering nightlife in Freiburg The Konzerthaus (Concert House) plays host to a variety of events. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. and November through March from 10 a. you find all kinds of museums and sights related to clocks. 2.50€ ($3) for students. when the first wooden clock was made in Waldau. Diners Club. . Furtwangen (% 07723/920-117). As early as 1840. Along the located on B33 between Triberg and Hornberg. is available from the tourist information office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Freiburg). (Note: Triberg can be jammed with cuckoo-clock shoppers in the summer.m. and other traditional crafts.m. Freiburg’s cathedral (described earlier). which emphasizes jazz but includes other musical styles. including program schedules and ticket sales.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 335 Time out: Buying a Black Forest cuckoo clock Since 1667. In June. Josef Weisser. Information about all venues and events. You can’t miss the shop: A giant cuckoo clock and water wheel are in front.. If you’re looking for a traditional timepiece to take home from the Black Forest. to 6 p. In addition to cuckoo clocks. The museum is open daily April through October from 9 a. An der Bundesstrasse 33. huge tents house the annual Zeltmusik festival (Tent Music Festival). Triberg-Gemmelsbach (% 07722/96300). Black Forest clocks were being shipped to China. The shop ships to the United States and Canada and takes American Express. Turkey. England. www.

Two clubs in one.m.336 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany With some 25. and funk.m.) plays house and techno for dancers. Tram: 1 or 2). in the basement. serves drinks and plays background punk.. is open daily from 11 a. to midnight. or 5).m.m. open Wed–Sat 10 p. Hausbrauerei Feierling. Crash. open Thurs–Sat midnight to 4 a. the city also has a thriving bar and club scene. Schnewlinstrasse 3 (% 0761/ 32475. Gerberau 46 (% 0761/26678. 4.000 university students. a brewpub with a popular beer garden across the street.–3:30 a. Drifler’s Club (no phone. . house. Neither club charges a cover. Tram: 1.

the leafy hills and woodlands beside . the old lanes and squares. But some of its legendary romantic allure stems from what was basically a 19thcentury public-relations campaign. Stuttgart. located on the Neckar River in the state of BadenWürttemberg. on the Neckar River.) According to a song from the operetta The Student Prince. 88km (55 miles) south of Frankfurt. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting romantic Heidelberg ᮣ Discovering the cultural delights of Stuttgart ᮣ Exploring historic Nuremberg devote this chapter to three special cities in central Germany. or Nürnberg as it’s known in German. is one of Germany’s most romantic cities. so you still can see original buildings from the Middle Ages. the cultural center of this region. is a historic and very attractive city in the state of Bavaria. Many Americans know Heidelberg because of the nearby U. Heidelberg is one of the few German cities that was not leveled by air raids in World War II (WWII). Army base. I Heidelberg: Romance on the River Heidelberg. This architecture is certainly a major part of Heidelberg’s appeal. summer is also a time when droves of visitors from around the globe invade this beautiful city. Nuremberg. summertime in Heidelberg is a time for music and romance.Chapter 18 Heidelberg. (See the “Heidelberg” map in this chapter. The looming ruins of the ancient castle. and neoclassical eras. can easily be visited as a side trip from Heidelberg. Today. which is set in Heidelberg. Renaissance. is renowned for its castle and its university. Both are castle-crowned cities worth visiting for a day or two.S. Heidelberg. Stuttgart. baroque.

Willy-Brandt-Plaza 1 (% 06221/19433. between the TheodorHeuss-Brücke (bridge) and the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. The great writer Goethe and many other poets. outside the main train station. From April through October. daily (Mon–Thurs in German. Fri–Sat in English) from April through October. The round-trip tour lasts about three hours and costs 10€ ($13) for adults.m. Purchase tickets at the tourist information office at the train station. depart from Universitätsplatz on Thursday and Friday at 2:30 p. and only on Saturday from November through March. The Heidelberg Card. www. good for two days and available for 14€ ($17) from the tourist information office and at many hotels. including the castle.. and Sunday and holidays at 10:30 a. Finding information The tourist information office. call Deutsche Bahn % 11861 or visit www. November through March the tour takes place only on Saturday at 2:30 p.m. to 6 p.rnf-schifffahrt. painters. The cost is 7€ ($8.m.m. Getting there Heidelberg is easily accessible by train from all major cities in Germany and Europe.338 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the Neckar.. provides admission to Heidelberg Castle and discounts on attractions. The train trip to Heidelberg’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is only one hour from Frankfurt and about three hours from The cost is 14€ ($17) for adults.bahn. and Sunday from 10 offers daily guided boat tours (commentary in German and English) on the Neckar River between Heidelberg and Neckarsteinach. and musicians “discovered” Heidelberg in the early 19th century. The office has maps and brochures. .m. (closed Sun Nov–Mar).m.75) for adults. Taking a guided tour A two-hour guided walking tour of the city departs from the Lion’s Fountain on Universitätsplatz at 10:30 a. guided bus tours of the city (in German and English).de.cvb-heidelberg. The town came to symbolize old-world German Romanticism at its most picturesque.50) for children. and 2:30 p. Purchase your ticket from the tourist information office at the train station.m. to 7 p. and the youthful student population all had great appeal to the German Romantics. 5€ ($6.m. For train schedules and information. They praised the town in their writings and immortalized it in their music and paintings.25) for students and children. and unlimited use of public transportation. From Easter through October.m. 6€ ($7. Saturday at 10:30 a. www. walking and boat tours. Boats depart from the landing stage near the Stadthalle. 10€ ($13) for students and children.m. Rhein-Neckar-Fahrgastschiffahrt (% 06221/20181.

rg Marstallstr. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei Restaurant 15 Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant 2 Mensurstube 7 Simplicissimus 6 Zum Goldenen Schaf 3 Zum Roten Ochsen 13 Zum Sepp’l 14 kar Nec Leyer gasse Mönc a Neck Fisc rstad en Lauerstr. 7 hg. AL TS TAD T 6 M rg. erianstr ing ers tr. gasse Plöck Kling ento rstr. adg erb . and Nuremberg Akad Semin arstr. Biene Karpfe Zie Krame ts Haup tr. Haspelg. gei 14 eilig upt Ha Werrgas Bism ar Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main äuser Ziegelh str. Untere St asse Jubiläumsplatz r ecka re N Unte Bauamtsgasse nstr. Theate Kettengasse Friedri chstr. 0 0 0. Heumarkt Ob Fischmarkt 8 10 Marktplatz 11 11 Kornmarkt Bur gw sse 3 4 2 2 Haupts tr. g d lba Mitte ngass . Land Schlangenweg cksä EICHENDORFFANLAGE gg we en ph oso l i Ph 7 7 Hölderlin. Schlossber g ch Neue S l os s - st r . se lgas ge r. 9 13 sg. igstr. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei 15 Alte Brücke ime r La r. Stuttgart. emie -str. Chapter 18: Heidelberg.1 mile N 100 meters . frieds Land sse er Unt au er F Marz rP elz Sc hl udwig Karl-L tr.ACCOMMODATIONS weg Philosophenrtchen gärtchen e Neu nhe antelg Grosse M S c h if f g a 1 r. 12 arls Karlsplatz K ATTRACTIONS Heiliggeistkirche 8 Kurpfälzisches Museum 2 Marktplatz 10 Rathaus 12 Heidelberg Castle 16 Studentenkarzer 4 Universitätsplatz 5 e nbe ies Fr tr. Ingrimst e Universitätsplatz San 5 Zw el nn tu rg e sb os hl Sc Castle 16 tr. s-s os Grab dga ler Pelz SCHLOSSGARTEN 15 sse rstr. str. Ob r ere Fa ule Ne ue tr. kteufel Am Hac rst Necka r. 15 15 H ststr. Semmel Steingasse Dreikön herg. loss Sch ue Ne Schlossberg Schloss nweg unne Wolfsbr str. S To Bismarckplatz enga Plöck Heidelberg 339 1 1 To Train Station rich-Ebert-Anlage Fried eg nw ule Heidelberg Munich Das Hotel am Rathaus 9 Der Europäische HofHotel Europa 1 Hotel Hirschgasse 7 Hotel Zum Ritter St. eg . ndst DINING Die Kurfürstenstube 1 Hotel Zum Ritter St.

busy pedestrian street with narrow medieval lanes on both sides. a 24-hour pass. a zoo. % 06221/22796) runs from Kornmarkt. A Bergbahn (funicular. and the modern one is what you encounter first. Staying in Heidelberg See also the listing for the outstanding Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa ($$$$) in Chapter 22. costs 8€ ($10). daily. a wide.50) for children and students. so I recommend that you take a streetcar or bus to Bismarckplatz or Universitätsplatz to begin your explorations. Some larger rooms are suitable for families. with simple modern furnishings and tiled bathrooms with showers. Across the Neckar River is the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way). HSB (% 06221/5132000). dominated by the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit). It’s located right in the heart of the city on the Marktplatz.75) for adults.m. has a modern and a historical face. Many bus and streetcar lines intersect at Bismarckplatz in the town center. and 7:40 p. Das Hotel am Rathaus $ –$$ Altstadt This hotel is one of Heidelberg’s nicest and most affordable. The main squares in the Altstadt are Universitätsplatz. runs from Bismarckplatz into the compact Altstadt.340 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Orienting yourself Your first glimpse of “romantic old Heidelberg” as you emerge from the Hauptbahnhof on the west side of town may be disappointing.m. and a botanical garden. or Market Square. between 9 a. . valid for up to five persons traveling within a group. like many in Germany and throughout Europe. to the east. The 17 rooms are small but very pleasant. Buses 41 and 42 travel between the railway station and Universitätsplatz on the west side of the Altstadt. above the Altstadt. an area of tall buildings and shopping plazas. the Marktplatz. the Altstadt is about a half-hour’s walk from the train station. The Altstadt (Old Town). the round-trip fare is 3€ ($3. a focal point for famed Heidelberg University.50). beneath Heidelberg’s Schloss (castle). 2€ ($2. a popular walking trail. up to the castle. in the Altstadt. However. The city. The one potential drawback: The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. and the Kornmarkt. Heidelberg is crisscrossed with a network of streetcars and buses operated by the local transportation department. The Schloss crowns a hill to the south. is where you want to focus your sightseeing activities. Hauptstrasse. Modern Heidelberg centers on Bismarckplatz (streetcar lines 1 and 2 run there from the train station). The Altstadt is a long wedge of slate-roofed buildings along the Neckar River. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. Fischmarkt. Getting around Heidelberg After you arrive in the Altstadt you can walk everywhere.

Bus: 34 from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop. just a couple of minutes’ walk from the river. DC. V. DC. and Nuremberg 341 See map p. 69100 Heidelberg. 339. Georg $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Located right on the Marktplatz on % 06221/1350. V. the Zum Ritter St. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 4-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Heiliggeiststrasse on the east side of Marktplatz). Rates include buffet breakfast. www. minimalist style. The medium-sized rooms have light-colored hardwood floors and are furnished with comfortable beds and large wooden cupboards. gabled facade. Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg is a well-preserved rarity from the German Renaissance. Built in 1592 as the home of a cloth merchant. Hotel Hirschgasse $$$ –$$$$ North Side of the River Nestled on the hillside of a historic lane adjoining the famous Philosophenweg on the north side of the Neckar. Kulturbrauerei $$ Altstadt This small (21 rooms). Rates: 144€–206€ ($180–$257) double. the main street in the Altstadt. MC. later in this chapter). and all come equipped with shower-tub-whirlpool combinations in the bathrooms. See map p. 69117 Heidelberg.ritter-heidelberg. this historic hotel enjoys a tranquil and romantic setting. The 20 rooms are all sumptuously comfortable suites decorated with Laura Ashley fabrics. The dining room specializes in duck breast and Hauptstrasse 178. The hotel has a cool. the hotel is among Heidelberg’s sightseeing attractions thanks to its highly decorated. 69117 Heidelberg. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). Rates: 160€–345€ ($200–$431) double. DC. Fax: 06221/ 147-337. 339. Rates include breakfast buffet. Fax: 06221/ 135-230. 18: Heidelberg. but the beds are comfortable. www. Many of the 40 rooms are modest in size. % 06221/14730. The hotel doesn’t have public lounges. the front rooms also can be noisy because of neighboring cafes and restaurants. Most of the rooms contain tiled bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. The Mensurstube restaurant is one of the most historically atmospheric spots in town (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. www. Hirschgasse 3. AE. Although they have Romantic Altstadt views. Bathrooms are adequately roomy with tub-shower combinations (four . Fax: 06221/454-111. AE. Heiliggeiststrasse 1. MC. is connected to a microbrewery. The hotel dates from 1472 and has lodged such impressive figures as Mark Twain and Bismarck. Stuttgart. See map p. 339. MC. V. % 06221/4540. hip hotel. The Altstadt is a ten-minute walk from the hotel. Rates: 99€–154€ ($124–$193)

and the wine list is the most impressive in town. % 06221/90000. V. AE. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse).m. DC. and 6–10 p. you can dine in the large Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) or the smaller Councilors’ Chamber. Fixed-price menus: 60€–80€ ($75–$100). Dining in Heidelberg Die Kurfürstenstube $$$$ Altstadt FRENCH The best dining spot in Heidelberg is the wood-paneled Die Kurfürstenstube in the deluxe Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. See map p. If you don’t stay here. but the cuisine is mainly French. A children’s menu includes dishes such as Wiener Würstchen (small Vienna-style sausages). Fax: 06221/900-099. and courtyard-facing rooms can be noisy in the summer.m. V. and 6:30–11:30 p. % 06221/5150. In Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. www. The dessert menu is equally scrumptious. veal with stuffed pumpkins. MC. Other menu offerings include staples such as pork loin with sauerkraut or roast salmon in a basil-cream sauce.m. Locals flock here when this dish is on the menu. Reservations required. 69117 Heidelberg. MC. Rates: 116€–149€ ($134–$186) double. 339. Look for culinary delights such as cream of watercress soup with poached quail egg and summer truffles in tempura. Unfortunately. try the Dortmunder Actien-Brauerei.342 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rooms have showers only). The house specialty is saddle of venison for two (in season). Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. Main courses: 25€–37€ ($31–$46). Reservations recommended. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 3-minute walk south to Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage). the hotel doesn’t have airconditioning. with fixed-price and à la carte meals. you may want to dine at the on-site restaurant (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. carpaccio of scallops and Scottish wild salmon with mushrooms in raspberry vinaigrette. next). located in one of Heidelberg’s most famous Renaissance buildings. Hotel Zum Ritter St. Leyergasse 6. Hauptstrasse 178.m. The menu is in English. A good beginning may be the snail soup with herbs or tomato soup with whipped cream. See map p. If you like beer. Main courses: 10€–15€ ($13–$19). Fixed-price menus: 20€–40€ ($25–$50). . MC. % 06221/1350. V. DC. AE. when tables are set up in the microbrewery’s beer garden.heidelberger-kulturbrauerei. The restaurant uses only the highest-quality seasonal ingredients. Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1. and filet of turbot with celery on saffron foam with coriander tortellini. 339. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). See map p. Georg $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL At this restaurant. AE.

roast fish). % 06221/90000. nothing is more enjoyable or romantic than dining in the museum’s garden courtyard with its splashing fountain. You can eat on the balcony or. Main courses: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). or vegetarian meals.m. DC. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. 339. in the beer garden. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Haupstrasse). and Nuremberg Kulturbrauerei Restaurant $ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL 343 Part of a microbrewery and hotel complex (see the “Staying in Heidelberg” section. MC. try the mocha and Grand Marnier parfait with fruit sauce. % 06221/24050. swordfish with a pepper crust.m. Hauptstrasse 97. V. or lamb shank. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). AE. The limited menu wisely sticks to traditional dishes made with fresh ingredients. followed by homemade noodles. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). MC. Potato soup is a good starter. Open: Daily 11 a. See map p. 339. In the Hotel Hirschgasse. See map p. Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL On a warm summer’s day or evening. oxtail. Hirschgasse 3. Reservations recommended for dinner. Leyergasse 6. to midnight. olives. lamb with rosemary. 339. dishes from the grill (bratwursts. in summer. where swords hang from the ceiling and you sit at 200-year-old tables. The restaurant also has a pleasant dining room. See map p. seasonal specialties (herring. pork filet with mushrooms. Come here when you’re in the mood for hearty portions of traditional German food washed down by one of the homemade Scheffel’s beers. You can order salads. The menu often includes Rinderfilet (filet of beef) served with bone marrow and a red-wine sauce.m. and 6–10 p. MC.m. spareribs). Fresh fish dishes may include zander with lemon cream. Reservations recommended. Bus: 34 (from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop). Mensurstube $$ –$$$ North Bank GERMAN/REGIONAL No other place in Heidelberg captures bygone days quite like this rustic and cozy spot in the ancient Hotel Hirschgasse. You can also get meat dishes: a good rib-eye steak. earlier in this chapter). Stuttgart. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse).–11 p. pork stomach. V.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. % 06221/4540.m. popular restaurant formerly was a dance hall. . and herbs. this large. Open: Daily 10 a. Almost everything is best accompanied by Pils beer on tap. For dessert. or tuna fish with tomatoes. or pork medallions in a pepper-cream sauce with homemade Spätzle (a potato-based pasta). V.

Ingrimstrasse 16. and one of the most famous historic monuments in Europe. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). See map p. fresh mushrooms in cream sauce with homemade noodles. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Hauptstrasse). V.344 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Simplicissimus $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH This elegant gourmet restaurant in the Altstadt is known for its cuisine moderne. or 41. this historic pubrestaurant offers a menu emphasizing regional dishes from Swabia and the Pfalz. but try to save room for warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. AE. 339. You may want to try the Kringelbratwurst (roast sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes) or Swabian sauerbraten (marinated beef with red cabbage and noodles). and for many visitors there is only one: the famous Schloss (castle) that looks down on the Altstadt.. DC. the main street in the Altstadt. Exploring Heidelberg Heidelberg is a wonderfully pleasant town to explore. and wandering through the old lanes and squares of the Altstadt is as essential a part of any tour as visiting the tourist attractions. or crayfish with fresh melon and herbflavored cream sauce.m. duck breast with asparagus. The menu changes often but may include lamb with a red-wine and onion purée.m. Reservations required. Bus: 11. Closed 2 weeks in Mar and 2 weeks in Aug. 12. 33. Portions are hearty and very filling. % 06221/20879. you also find a shorter. 339. it is one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance castles in Germany. The town has few must-see sights.m.–1 a. 35. Main courses: 19€–45€ ($24–$56). % 06221/183-336. See map p. V. Service is friendly. Hauptstrasse 115. Set amid woodlands and terraced gardens. steeper path up Burgweg from Kornmarkt. Fixed-price menu: 34€–85€ ($42–$106). the enormous ruins of the castle are undeniably picturesque. Visiting the top attraction Heidelberg Castle Most visitors reach the huge red-sandstone Schloss on foot. and the wine list is good. Open: Wed–Mon 6 p. . Even in its deteriorated state. MC.m. The easiest and most gradual path begins at the Klingentor. or by taking a two-minute cable-car ride from Kornmarkt (see “Getting around Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). Zum Goldenen Schaf $$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL Located on Hauptstrasse. Sat–Sun 11 a. Walking is the most rewarding approach because of the constantly changing views of the town and surrounding countryside. to midnight. Open: Mon–Fri noon to 1 a. Plan to spend about two hours here.

between about 1400 and 1544. you first come upon the Pulverturm (Gun Tower) and a terrace with views of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. is the shell of the Spiegelbau (Hall of Mirrors). Touring the Altstadt Marktplatz (Market Square) is the main square in the Altstadt. The Hortus Palatinus (Castle Gardens) originally were created in the 17th century. free. erected from 1601 to 1607 and less damaged than other parts of the castle. Pharmacy Museum. and Nuremberg 345 The history of Heidelberg Castle An elevated fortress rose above Heidelberg as early as 1225. entrance courtyard. After it was rebuilt. Entering at the main gate. Its restored rooms can be seen on guided tours. from 1549 to 1620.000 gallons) of wine. re-creating a baroqueand rococo-era chemist’s shop with utensils and laboratory equipment from the 17th and 18th centuries. % 06221/538-431. cheese.50) children. but the castle as it stands today was built in two main phases. See map p. The palace’s terrace offers a magnificent view of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. was built in 1751 and once held more than 208. This enormous wine barrel. .m.75) adults. During the first phase. your castle entrance ticket includes admission. fish. Stuttgart. and Great Cask. Housed within Ottheinrich’s palace is the Apothekenmuseum (Pharmacy Museum. The Elizabethentor (Elizabeth’s Gate). The castle was the residence of the prince electors for centuries until French troops sacked and destroyed it in the late 17th century. 3€ ($3. Open: Daily 8 a. you find the remains of a grotto and a sandstone sculpture of Father Rhine. vegetables. 339. sits the Grosse Fass (Great Cask). stalls of fresh flowers. erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his teenage wife (Elizabeth Stuart.m.50€ ($4. the largest in the world. connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrichsbau (palace of Ottheinrich).Chapter 18: Heidelberg.–5:30 p. to 5 p. Audio tours: 3. Admission: Castle grounds. 1.m. the ruins of the castle became a symbol for the German Romantics and a mecca for tourists from around the world. In the southeast corner. At the west end of the terrace. To the east. Along the north side of the courtyard stretches the Friedrichsbau (palace of Friedrich IV). The second phase. Tours: Frequent 1-hour guided tours of the castle in English. Schlossberg..m. On market days (Wed and Sat).50€ ($2) children. 2€ ($2.000 liters (55. constructed in 1549. In the 19th century. 4€ ($5) adults. in the 16th-century cellars of the castle. The museum is open daily from 10 a.50). % 06221/25880). saw the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles as various prince electors of the Palatinate added to the building. the castle was struck by lightning. fortifications and living quarters were constructed. daughter of the English king James I) leads to the bridge crossing the former moat.

to 6 p.m. For nearly 300 years. Georg (see “Staying in Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). and a section on the history of the Palatinate.” earlier in this chapter) is a good choice for lunch or dinner. built around 1400.80€ ($2. to 6 p.m.m. The late-Gothic Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost. Admission is 2. October through March. open daily 8 a. and at the south end of the square is the Neue Universität (New University).. The hotel is named for the statue of the Ritter (knight) at the top. discovered in the vicinity nearly 100 years ago. stands on the south side of Marktplatz.25) for students and children 17 and younger. Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. A five-minute walk west from the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse and south 1 block on Grabengasse brings you to Universitätsplatz (University Square).–5 p. Augustinerstrasse 2 (% 06221/543-554). Heidelberg’s most noteworthy museum contains a large collection of regional painting and sculpture from the 15th to the 19th centuries. 2€ ($2. Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a. where from 1778 to 1914 generations of students were incarcerated in cramped cells for minor offenses. you find the Studentenkarzer (Students’ Prison). completed in 1932. Heidelberg University.m. On the northeastern side is the Alte Universität (Old University).). the church was the burial place of the Palatinate electors. now the Hotel Zum Ritter St. Graffiti and drawings. 1. on the east side of the square. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. (Wed until 8 p. .000-year-old Heidelberg Man (Homo heidelbergensis). Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. The Rathaus (Town Hall). to 4 p. You can also see an archaeological collection with a cast of the jawbone of the 600. In 1706. The museum restaurant (see “Dining in Heidelberg. Hauptstrasse 97 (% 06221/583-402). cover the walls and even the ceilings. is the oldest in Germany.m. including portraits and silhouettes. no phone. A two-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse from Universitätsplatz brings you to the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate).50) for students and children 14 and younger.75) for adults.). and baked goods fill the square.m. The wall has since been removed and the church restored to its original plan. The prison is open April through September. The one masterpiece on display is Tilman Riemenschneider’s 1509 wooden altarpiece showing Christ and the Apostles. a building from the 18th century. A few steps past the Old University. founded in 1386.m.m. Housed in a baroque palace. The highly decorated Renaissance mansion. dominates the west end of Marktplatz. A Huguenot cloth merchant who emigrated from France to Heidelberg erected the building in 1592.50€ ($3.m.10) for adults. a wall was erected to divide the church between Roman Catholics and Protestants. is an early-18th-century building reconstructed in 1908 following a fire.346 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany meat. Give yourself about 45 minutes to browse through the various exhibits.

The tavern is open April through October on Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a. sells Hummel figurines. and wooden blocks and figures. to midnight.m. ߜ Black Forest Shop. and dance productions. The performing arts The main performance stage is Theater der Stadt. Bus: 41 or 42). Early evenings often start in the bars along Hauptstrasse. UntereStrasse 18 (% 06221/28737).m. Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn). ߜ Michael Kienscherff. opened in 1703. late nights get rolling in clubs around Marktplatz. Meals go for 10€ to 18€ ($13–$22). Friedrichstrasse 5 (% 06221/583-502.schlossfestspielheidelberg. A lively outdoor market is open on Wednesday and Saturday at the Marktplatz. Historic taverns Heidelberg’s most famous and revered student tavern.m. bathroom. nutcrackers. Some noteworthy shops include ߜ Altstadt-Galerie Stefan. Tram: 1 or 5). and table. and glass and crystal ornaments. dolls. Revelers sit at long oak tables arranged in horseshoe fashion around a pianist. and Nuremberg 347 Shopping in Heidelberg The main shopping street is the traffic-free Hauptstrasse. the songs become louder and louder. and 5 p. nativity scenes. . Hauptstrasse 42 (% 06221/14480).de. Stuttgart.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Plöck 71 (% 06221/893-6677). sells charming original engravings for as little as 10€ ($13). Hauptstrasse 215 (% 06221/619-983). to midnight. A mug of beer costs about 2. the Schlossfestspiele festival brings opera. jazz. classical music. and theater to venues around the area. near Karlsplatz.50€ ($3) and up. Contact % 06274/58352 for tickets or visit www. offers a wide assortment of handicrafts from across Germany: music boxes. cuckoo clocks. Hauptstrasse 217 (% 06221/20977). November through March hours are 5 p. to 2 p. including Heidelberg Castle. is a children’s clothing and toy store with handcrafted puppets. Hauptstrasse 177 (% 06221/24255. and beer steins. As the evening progresses. ߜ Gätschenberger. ߜ Kinderwaren Troll. opera. Living it up after dark in Heidelberg The large student population keeps Heidelberg humming after dark.m. where nightly entertainment includes plays. For five weeks beginning in late July. is known for its array of fine linens and embroideries for bed.

and cinnamon All of them take place right in the center of town on Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. the beer festival features food. wine lovers converge to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties.D.m. to midnight. a wedge of limestone upland south of Stuttgart.000 beer drinkers. Hauptstrasse 213 (% 06221/23085). Dating back to 1818. As a cultural center. For dates and more information. Swabia has been a leader of German industry for decades. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. and tents for some 20. the original inhabitants.70). 115km (71 miles) southeast of Heidelberg. mulled wine. The building dates from 1634. visit the city’s Web site at www. but most of the people who live here still call the area Swabia. Stuttgart is the capital of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. With Stuttgart as its capital. The 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. Stuttgart plays host to a lively Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt). begins in late September with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes. Stuttgart makes for a great daytrip from Heidelberg. A Side Trip to Stuttgart Located in the Neckar Valley. and west to the Danube River. who were conquered by the Franks in the fifth century A. Saturday and Sunday from noon to 2:30 p. nestled in gently rolling hills with woods and vineyards reaching right down into the city. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter. and 5:30 p.m. To the north. Meals cost 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). . to midnight. the Schwäbische Wald (Swabian Forest) stretches to the Schwäbische Alb. yet it remains surprisingly verdant. The name comes from Suevi. one of the oldest and largest in Europe. Stuttgart has no equal in southwestern Germany.m. filled with photographs and memorabilia. A mug of beer goes for 2. also part of Swabia. Forests sweep south to the Bodensee. For more than a century Stuttgart has been a center of German industry. with about 230 decorated stalls selling gifts. rides.) A visit to Stuttgart can be even more enjoyable when you time your trip to coincide with one of the city’s major festivals. The smaller Neckar River flows past Heidelberg and Stuttgart through a vineyard-covered valley. Starting in late November.348 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Swabia: Stuttgart’s homeland Swabia (Schwaben in German) is the name for a medieval duchy now contained within the federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southwestern Germany.stuttgart-tourist.95€ ($3. A pianist performs nightly. It’s open Monday through Friday from 5:30 p. but the region also is renowned for its scenic countryside. Visitors come from across the region to enjoy the city’s museums and performing arts. At the Stuttgart Wine Festival in late August. Next door is Zum Sepp’l.

Heinemann Platz Kleiner Schlossplatz K ien ans tra ass sse Theatersee -Str 3 5 AKADEMIEGARTEN ena Schlossplatz Eug stra ensse stra uer Ulr ich sse sse Urb 8 9 hee Ca st ra ss e r te B Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Stuttgart Munich ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg 7 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart 6 Mercedes-Benz Museum 9 Neues Schloss 3 Staatsgalerie 2 Weissenhofsiedlung 1 Wilhelma 8 DINING Alte Kanzlei 5 Café Königsbau 4 Church Information Post Office i Al To Fernsehturm ex an de rst ra sse Hohenheimer Strasse rh Ebe ar ass e Br str enn as erse sen str s G ai bu rg str e lum ns tra sse ss Charlottenplatz a e tras lzs nig Ki lli che Bo str Th o str uret ass e Lau ass SCHLOSSGARTEN 2 e Staatstheater se Ne stra ckarsse r tle Sat Heg elst sse Ca gs gs ber nn sta a str tras se tte sse rstr 1 Hauptbahnhof ass eg e e rd ns e w tra r Pano am as e ss t ra 0 1/8 mile 125 meters ss Jäg ers ss tra e 0 N SCHLOSSGARTEN e st ra en ss e Moserstrasse We ima rstr ass So ph ien str as se . Stuttgart. ss e ras se an- tra rot Karlsplatz nst stra Fr itz Schillerplatz 7 Kon ns es tra 4 sse tra sse 6 -Ad Berliner Liederhalle Platz trasse asse tr sss Sch lo ne rs ssStr Tüb Kr as o i n s np Stra ger e rin sse zst Kö ras nig se str ass Hir e sch str a sse St ei ns tra Ha ss up e tS ta ds t tr a Le ss o St e str nha ra as rd ss se e -E lsa s-S Do Th M Ho Es lzs St sling tr.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. ra e sse r Rotebühlplatz e nste gu e Au trass s ar kt Ro Olg Marktplatz Urb ast r. and Nuremberg 349 Stuttgart Di He Se am es an tra te ss ers e sse tra rass Krie i Sch lag ille tenstra ten Hegelplatz rstr sch STADTGARTEN ngs tra sse ass e Holzgar Kö e S rad Le u ch Bü ch se eo d St or-H ra e s lw u er.

to 8 p.m. Access by car is via the A8 Autobahn east and west or the A81 north and south. to 11 p.m. and Visa.stuttgart-tourist.. specializes in traditional Swabian dishes such as Maultaschen (pasta stuffed with ham. Diners Club. Königstrasse 28 (% 0711/290-787).). and accepts American Express.350 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting to Stuttgart By train. Saturdays. cake. an old-fashioned Konditorei (pastry shop) located in the colonnade of the Königsbau next to the new art museum.m. to 6 p. to 7 p. Stuttgart Airport (% 0711/948-3388).m. Fares are based on zones.m.bahn. www. spinach. . a one-way ticket costs 1. egg.m.m. is open Monday through Friday 9 a.m.m.75). Stuttgart has a comprehensive S-Bahn system that links up with the U-Bahn (subway). and Sunday 11 a. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter.m. A one-day ticket (Einzel Tageskarte) costs 5.) The Mercedes Museum and some other sights require the use of public transportation or a taxi. The restaurant is open daily from 11 a.m.m. The cafe is open Monday through Friday 9 a. From the airport’s Terminal 1. The restaurant has a cafe section where you can get breakfast and lighter meals. Saturday 9 a.50) for two zones.. and in March on Fridays. or other fillings) and Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef topped with onions). Coffee. The cost is 17€ ($21) per person. trip time from Heidelberg is only 40 minutes. for 7€ ($8.m.80€ ($2. the I-Punkt tourist information office.vvs. Saturday 9 a. For information. and Sundays at 1:30 p. Ninety-minute city walking tours (in German only) are offered daily from April through October at 11 a. and light meals are served at Café Kö you can take the S2 or S3 S-Bahn directly to the main train station in central Exploring Stuttgart From the train station. www. Alte Kanzlei. to 8 p. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. to 6 p. Purchase tickets from the automated machines in U-Bahn stations or from the bus driver.10€ ($6. to 6 p.m. located 13km (8 miles) south of the city.25) for one zone.m. Main courses go for 9€ to 16€ ($11–$20).m. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz).m. Schillerplatz 5A (% 0711/29-44-57.m. you can reach all the major attractions in the Altstadt on foot. and Sunday 11 a. www.. or you can sit out on the terrace and have an ice cream.. (Nov–Apr 1–6 p. from April through October. MasterCard. Königstrasse 1A (% 0711/222-80. For train schedules and information. serves as a major gateway to southern Germany. Finding information and taking a tour Located opposite the main train Dining in Stuttgart Occupying a section of the Altes Schloss (Old Castle). call the city’s transportation authority VVS (% 0711/66060. The tourist office offers a 21⁄2-hour guided sightseeing bus tour (in German and English) daily at 1 p.

Beethovenstr. Stuttgart. Akadamie Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Neckartor Schlossplatz Staatsgalerie Gerlingen Hölderlinplatz U6 2 Schloss-Johannesstr. Friedrich-List-Heim Kursaal Winterbach Beskidenstr. Millöckerstr. Berliner Platz Gerlingen Siedlung Schlotterbeckstr. Salzwiessenstr. Eckhardt Neuwirtshaus Korntal Fortuna Löwentor Weilimdorf Wilhelm-Geiger-Platz Ditzingen Feuerbach Krankenhaus Höfingen Sportpark Feuerbach Leonberg Löwentorbrücke Feuerbach Pfostenwäldle Rutesheim Landauer Str. S4 S5 S6 Botnang Universität Hedelfingen U9 U13 Ruhbank 15 U14 Eugensplatz Heidehofstr. Pleininger Str. Siegelstr. Wangener-/Landhausstr. Zuffenhausen Rathaus Korntaler Str. Peregrinastr. Rosensteinbrücke Geradstetten Nürnberger Str. Rommelshausen Münster Rathaus Fellbach Stetten-Beinstein Münster Viadukt Sommerain Kraftwerk Münster Endersbach Beutelsbach 2 Obere Ziegelei Mühlsteg Grunbach Gnessener Str. Bihlplatz Südheimer Platz Österfeld Waldeck Kaltental Engelbold str. Landesversicherungsanstalt Asperg Favoritepark Tapachstr. Schwabstraße Dobelstr. Vaihinger Str. Sonnenberg Riedsee Waldau Wasenstr. Wimpfener Str. Mineralbäder Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion Metzstraße Karl-Olga Krankenhaus Bergfriedhof Raitelsberg Ostendplatz Schlachthof Tal-/Landhausstr. Breitwiesen Falkerstr. Vogelsang Herderplatz Feuersee Mercedesstr. Schwabenlandhalle Schorndorf Uff-Kirchhof Benningen Freiberg U5 U14 Neckargröningen Remseck S5 Tamm Freiberg (N) Wlhelmsplatz Bad Cannstatt Stöckach Felbach Lutherkirche U1 Blick Eszet Suttnerstr.Marbach (N) S4 Bietigheim Brückenstr. Heumaden S-Bahn S1 S2 S3 U-Bahn S4 S5 S6 Vaihingen Viadukt Fauststr. U7 Mainsheim der Stadt Pragfriedhof Eckhartsaldenweg Wolfbusch Bergheimer Hof Türlenstraße S6 Salamanderweg Rosenberg-/Seidenstr. Bubenbad Payerstr. S2 Badstr. Kirchtalstr. Gaisberg Brendle Im Degen Inselstr. Salzäcker Landhaus Ehningen Gärtringen Nufringen Leinfelden U5 Echterdingen Pleiningen U3 S1 Herrenberg Flughafen Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn 351 S3 Filderstadt S2 U1 2 U3 U4 U5 U6 U7 U8 U9 U13 U14 15 . Backnang Mühle Hornbach S3 Maubach Mühlhausen Auwissen Nellmersbach Hofen Max-Eyth-See Winneden Wagrainäcker Schwalkheim Elbestraße Neustadt-Hohenacker Waiblingen Freibergstr. Ludwigsburg 15 Fürfelder Str. Bockelstr. Maybachstr. Vaihingen Schillerplatz U1 U3 U6 Vaihingen SSB-Zentum Rohr Jurastr. Esslinger Str. Silberwald Sillenbuch Schemppstr. Hauptbahnhof Berliner Platz Untertürkheim U4 Stadtmitte Charlottenplatz Olgaeck Schwab-/Bebelstr. Killesberg Löwen-Markt Renningen Milchhof Weil Messe Rastatter Str. Zuffenhausen Pragsattel Zahn-Nopper-Str. Bopser Weinsteige Degerloch Degerloch Albstr. Friedrichswahl Heutingsheimer Str. Eltinger Str. Stammheim Kornwestheim Zuffenhausen Kelterplatz Stammheim Rathaus Hohensteinstr. and Nuremberg Goldberg Böblingen Hulb Oberaichen Leinfelden Frank Nellingen Ostfildern U7 U8 Unteraichen Sigmaringer Str. Daimlerplatz Wilhelma Weiler Augsburger Platz Höhenstr. Schozacher Str. Arndt-/Spittastr. Stafflenbergstr. Wangen Marztplatz Kodak Obertürkheim Mettingen Esslingen Obresslingen Zell Altbach Lindpaintnerstr. Russische Kirche Giebel Keplerstr. Borsigstr. Wallgraben Rohrer Weg Möhringen Freibad Möhringen Bf U5 U6 U8 Ruit Zinsholz Parksiedlung Scharnhauser Park Kreuzbrunnen Techn. Mittnachstr. Geroksruhe Steile Plochingen S1 U4 U9 Heslach Vogelrain Rathaus Österreichischer Platz Marienplatz Schreiberstr.

Schillerplatz 6 (% 0711/279-3400.and 20th-century works by artists from southern Germany. you’ll enjoy every minute (free audio guides are available in English). to 5 p. A must for anyone who has an interest in cars — vintage or otherwise — the Mercedes-Benz Museum. admission is 5€ ($6. the Württemberg crown jewels (in the royal vault).352 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg (Old Castle and State Museum of Württemberg). and Max Beckmann. Hans Memlings’s Bathsheba at her Bath. to 5 p. The top floor. and treasures found in the tomb of a Celtic prince (circa A.m. Ernst Barlach. The new museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. Admission is 3€ ($3. with works of the German expressionists Ernst Kirchner.and 20th-century collection. the city’s finest art museum. 4€ ($5.25) for students. including works by Modigliani.m. Designed by Berlin architects Hascher and Jehle. The Neue Staatsgalerie (State Art Gallery). a cafe open to the public. exhibits works spanning some 550 years. 2€ ($2. which opened in spring 2005. a large collection of Swabian sculptures. Nearly 75 historical vehicles are shown. Give yourself at least an hour here.25) for adults. To reach it. Some famous examples of European art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries also are exhibited. open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. is one of Stuttgart’s oldest standing structures. The “New State Gallery.m. you find the 19th. Highlights include Giovanni Bellini’s The Mourning of Christ. The new gallery houses the city’s collection of 19th. Art lovers will .). U-Bahn: Schlossplatz).75) for adults. Untertürkheim Tor 1 (about a 10minute walk). to 6 p. Mercedesstrasse 37.25) for students. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). 1€ ($1. (Wed until 8 p. honors the invention of the motorcar by Carl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler. charges 8€ ($10) for adults. Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 30–32 (% 0711/470-400.m. in addition to representatives of the Bauhaus school and Blue Rider group. U-Bahn: Staatsgalerie). such as Paul Klee and Lyonel Feininger. and Rembrandt’s St. Kleiner Schlossplatz 1 (% 0711/216-2188.50) for students. then follow signs to DaimlerChrysler Werk. first built as a moated castle in the 14th century and later redone in Renaissance style. Paul in Prison. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. and Monet. the castle now houses a state museum tracing the art and culture of Swabia and Württemberg from the Stone Age to the present. Picasso. 530).m.m. Stuttgart-Cannstatt (% 0711/172-2578).The museum. including the first motorcycle (built in 1885) and the first Mercedes (1902).” designed by the British architect James Stirling and completed in 1984. You’ll see prehistoric stone sculptures. is considered an icon of postmodern architecture. the museum is a filigree glass cube surrounding a rough-hewn limestone inner core. In this section. The museum moved to a new building in 2006.D. take S-Bahn line S1 to Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion.. provides a fabulous panoramic view of Stuttgart and its surrounding hills. It’s worth a trip to Stuttgart just to see the Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (Stuttgart Art Museum). the paintings by Otto Dix are particularly compelling (the museum has the most important Otto Dix collection in the world). You can see the highlights in an hour or so.m. Rebuilt after WWII.

or concert hall. free on Wednesday. call Anselm Vogt-Moykopf at % 0172/740-1138 (www.75) children younger than 17. The park was laid out in 1848 and contains a collection of historical buildings in the Moorish style. to 6 p. take a taxi or the U-Bahn line 7 to the Killesberg-Messe stop and walk northeast around the Messe into the residential neighborhood. Oberer Schlossgarten (% 0711/ 20-20-90. Neckartalstrasse. want to give themselves a couple of hours here.60) for adults. admission is 11€ ($13) adults. home to the Stuttgarter Philharmoniker and the Radio Symphony Orchestra. to 5 p.weissenhofgalerie. To get there. Am Weissenhof 30 (% 0711/257-1434. Wilhelma. free for children 13 and younger.m. The animal houses and greenhouses are open year-round from 8:15 a.stadtrund fahrt-stuttgart. walking tours are available on Saturdays at 11 a. and Hans Scharoun (Hölzweg 1). For a private architectural tour by an English-speaking city guide/taxi driver. Home to more than 9. Classical and other concerts are given in the Liederhalle. 5. www. Stuttgart performing arts Even if you’re staying in available at newsstands.50€ ($5. .m. Tickets for all concerts are on sale at the tourist information office. and Sunday noon to 5 p.000 animals and plants from around the world. is the largest zoo and botanical garden in Europe. To reach the Weissenhof Estate. Staatstheater (State Theater).).. Stuttgart. take U-Bahn line 14 to the Wilhelma stop.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.m.40€ ($6. Bad-Cannstatt (% 0711/54020). and Nuremberg 353 Classics of modernist architecture Architecture buffs will want to pay a visit to Weissenhofsiedlung (Weissenhof Estate). opera. (Nov–Feb until 4 p. Le Corbusier (Rathenaustrasse 1–3) Many of the existing houses represent the functional style that was being promoted by the Bauhaus school of art and design. Listings of the various cultural events and tickets are available from the tourist office (see “Finding information and taking a tour.m.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. U-Bahn: Liederhalle/Berlinerplatz). Stuttgart is so close (only 40 minutes by train) that you may want to consider spending an evening there at the ballet. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).m. is home to the highly regarded Stuttgart Ballet and the Staatsoper (State Opera). The magazine Lift.). Displays in the small Architektur-Galerie. Schloss-Strasse (% 0711/2167110.” earlier in this section on Stuttgart). provide information about the project and the architects involved. a housing estate built for a building exhibition in 1927. lists all the happenings around Stuttgart. the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday 2 to 6 p.m. Admission is 4. Walking through the estate you see houses created by architects such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (Am Weissenhof 14–29). (Thurs until 9 p.

“Nourenberc. In the postwar years. but few have been reborn with the kind of evocative grace and charm of Nuremberg. many of Nuremberg’s most important buildings.) This strikingly attractive and lively city has about half a million residents. mark on German history. 148km (92 miles) northwest of Munich. were restored or reconstructed in the Altstadt. Hitler made Nuremberg the Nazi Party’s permanent convention and rally site.” as the city originally was known. under Hitler. no other German city. tableware. in Nuremberg. historic buildings. The city’s role as capital of the empire. After the war. with the exceptions of Dresden and Berlin. each newly elected emperor of the Holy Roman Empire had to convene his first Reichstag. suffered such wartime devastation. made it one of the wealthiest and most important cities in medieval Germany. convened by the International Military Tribunal. Dorotheenstrasse 4 (U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). and museums definitely is worth it. dates back to about 1050. a cultural flowering made Nuremberg the center of the German Renaissance. the city’s architecture and previous role in the Holy Roman Empire represented the quintessence of Germany. But the city fell into decline until. sports equipment. (See the “Nuremberg” map in this chapter. churches. the historic center. and most infamous. an Art Nouveau building dating from 1914 and full of stalls selling local and foreign delicacies. . As a result. From 1356 onward. take note: Metzingen. is the home of Germany’s best and most numerous factory-outlet stores. To Hitler. On and around Kanalstrasse. Nearly every German city has a restored Altstadt. a small town 35km (21 miles) south of Stuttgart and easily accessible by train. the Nazi war-crimes trials were held here. you find a selection of international designer outlets selling clothing. including some of the finest Gothic and Renaissance churches in Germany. head to the Markthalle (Market Hall).354 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Stuttgart You’ll find department stores and boutiques lining Königstrasse. Spending a day or more exploring its streets. Nuremberg made its second. After he seized power in 1933. right outside the main train station. the city grew from a fortress and military base in eastern Franconia (a medieval duchy of south-central Germany) to a virtually self-governing Free Imperial City (Freie Reichsstadt). or meeting with the princes of the empire. and its location at the crossroads of major trade routes. During the 15th and 16th centuries. In 300 years. Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth Nuremberg (or Nürnberg in German) is located in Bavaria. shoes. But for a special shopping experience. Serious shoppers. and more.

from 18: Heidelberg. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. l e rass Praterstrasse Beckschlage Wes Neue G.bahn. JOHANNIS 2 3 dSchil e gass Maxtor Lange G asse Hirschel gasse I n .-LorenzKirche 19 Dokumentationszentrum Hamburg Reichsparteitagsgelände 21 St. For information and schedules. 9 10 7 Obstmarkt Burgs s se Ha b gr a en Tetze lga sse de trasse B nis urgschmiets trasse str ass e ST.-SebaldusBerlin Kirche 9 Frauenkirche 15 GERMANY Germanisches Nationalmuseum 18 Frankfurt Church Information i Hauptmarkt 14 Nuremberg Railway Kaiserburg 2 Munich Schöner Brunnen 11 s tr rien se as stra sse 20 B a h n h o f s t r a ss e 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters N . www. 8 Karlstrasse i 11 12 13 Haupt-14 markt 21 Kö n ig LORENZ Kornmarkt 18 i Ma TAFELHOF ATTRACTIONS Schwurgerichtssaal 600 1 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus 3 Spielzeugmuseum 8 Altes Rathaus 13 St. t ers at rg. Stuttgart. Getting there You can easily reach Nuremberg by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe. The city’s Hauptbahnhof is within walking distance of all the major attractions. Travel time from Frankfurt is about 2 hours. and Nuremberg 355 Nuremberg St. you find reminders of Nuremberg’s brightest period. L a uf e r g. a ss to rg ra ras se hst eic Bl Gr il Sp itt ler A L T S T A D T 17 sse Brunnengasse Ma ri en to r 19 abe w ud Färbe Am Plärrer Ludwigstor t up ss Hastra sto e rgr tra igsJacobplatz L Spittlertor rstra Fürther Tor sse Fraue ngass e Ka b gas tharin gr a se enBlu Lor me enz nst er S ras tra se sse en rge be len be n Pegnitz Adlerstrasse Lauf r e rto Str 16 15 rgra be n chhe rrnstr asse e n - Lessingstrasse aben asse San dstr Hauptbahnhof Kö Frauentorgr nig ACCOMMODATIONS Burghotel Nürnberg 6 Dürer-Hotel 4 Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg 20 Romantik Hotel am Jusephsplatz 17 DINING Bratwurst-Häusle 12 Essigbrätlein 7 Goldenes Posthorn 10 Heilig-Geist-Spital 16 As you wander through the streets of this ancient capital of the Holy Roman Empire. 1 hour 40 minutes. from Berlin. less than 5 hours. Johannis Friedhof Li n Joh an ng a 1 Pr Kleinweidenhle mühle Deuts Neutor ttorg rabe n Pegn iese itz l er w 4 5 6 AlbrechtDürer-Platz Theresiens.

In 30 minutes. plus admission to the castle.m. 6km (4 miles) north of the city center. to 1 p. By car from Munich. connections are available to Nuremberg’s small airport. www.tourismus.m. parts of which still remain and have rampart walks and gateway towers.nuernberg. to 4 p. An additional branch at Hauptmarkt 18 (% 0911/231-5555) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. a small sightseeing train operated by Nürnberger Altstadtrundfahrten (% 0911/421-919) runs through the Altstadt. Buy your tickets from the tourist information office or from the guide.m.m. picturesque Pegnitz River bisects the Altstadt. children younger than 14 free. The tour includes a visit to the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). and from Berlin. take the A9 Autobahn south.m. 2€ ($2. Although the Altstadt is larger than the historic centers in many other German cities. A guided 21⁄2-hour walking tour of the city center in English departs daily (May–Oct and Nov 30–Jan 6) at 1 for adults. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. and Sunday (May–Sept only) from 10 a. passing all the major sights on a 40-minute tour with commentary in German (English translations available). from the tourist information office at the Hauptmarkt. take the A9 Autobahn north. to 6 p. Getting around Nuremberg Nuremberg’s Altstadt is almost entirely closed to traffic. Orienting yourself Nearly all that is of interest to the visitor is found in Nuremberg’s Altstadt. The small. you can walk . The train departs from the fountain in the Hauptmarkt in front of the tourist office several times a day from 10:30 a. the old imperial castle. crowning the northern periphery is the Kaiserburg.m. from major German and European cities. from Frankfurt. To the north lies the Hauptmarkt. From April through October and on weekends in November and March.356 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For those traveling by plane. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office.m. all its sights are easily accessible on foot. You find historic sights both north and south of the river. the entire Altstadt lies within a double wall of medieval fortifications. to 7 p. opposite the train station at Königstrasse 93 (% 0911/233-6132. The Hauptbahnhof lies on the southern perimeter of the Altstadt.m. The cost is 8€ ($10) adults. Cost is 5€ ($6. the city’s main market Flughafen Nürnberg (% 0911/93700. Roughly oval in shape. www. head southeast along the A3 Autobahn. and 2 to 4 p. one of the most successfully restored historic city centers in Germany.50) for children.

Chapter 18: Fax: 0911/ 23-88-91-00. See map p. The easiest way to use the system is to buy a TagesTicket (day ticket) for 3. Mediumsized rooms done in pastel colors open onto the street or a back garden. www. Rates include continental breakfast. AE. You can enjoy your breakfast. Buy your tickets from the machines in the U-Bahn stations. 90403 Nürnberg. The smallish tiled baths have showers (some have tub-shower combinations). www. Fax: 0911/ 2146-65555. % 0911/214-6650. 46-room hotel provides good. alongside the castle wall. AE. V. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk southwest along the city wall). For a taxi. V.50). DC. VGN (% 0911/270-750). you could find “grand” hotels like this all across Europe. Rates include buffet breakfast. trams. 90403 Nürnberg. Walking in the Altstadt is easier than using public transportation. special weekend and summer rates.altstadthotels. Nuremberg’s transportation system consists of a U-Bahn (subway). MC. The hotel is below the castle walls in one of the most historic parts of the old city. tickets purchased on Saturday also are good all day Sunday.60€ ($4. The functional bathrooms are tiled and come with shower units. For more The ambience throughout is modern and pleasant. Lammsgasse 3. call % 0911/19410. 355. Dürer-Hotel $$ –$$$ Altstadt The 107-room Dürer stands beside the birthplace of its namesake. solid comfort in a great Altstadt location for a reasonable price. Staying in Nuremberg See Chapter 22 for a listing of the charming Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz ($–$$$). % 0911/23-88-90. call the city’s transportation authority. the only meal served. Burghotel Nürnberg $ –$$$ Altstadt This reliable. MC. and buses. in a pretty room off the lobby. Bedrooms are compact and nicely furnished. and close to all the major sightseeing attractions in the Altstadt. and Nuremberg 357 from the Hauptbahnhof to the Kaiserburg through the heart of the city’s medieval core and past most of the historic monuments. Fares are based on zones. 355. Rates: 135€–180€ ($169–$225) double. Neutormauer 32. next to Albrecht Dürer’s house (see the “Exploring Nuremberg” section. later in this chapter). Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse to Lammsgasse). Rates: 98€–175€ ($122–$187) double. See map p. Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg $$$$ Altstadt At one time. DC. Stuttgart. They were always close to train stations (because that was how most people .altstadthotels.

MC.” (one.m. DC.358 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany traveled). this grand hotel escaped destruction in World War II and consequently still retains much of its unique Art Nouveau atmosphere and detailing. Bahnhofstrasse 1–3. . Rates: 250€–390€ ($312–$487) double. and they were always the largest and most glamorous places to stay. and Canada. You can also get them to go (zum mitnehmen). served on pewter plates. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (then a 5minute walk north on Königsttrasse to Rathausplatz). the largest in Nuremberg. The guest rooms. The city is famous for its finger-size Rostbratwurst made of pork and various spices and then broiled on a charcoal grill. .S. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. originally was a meeting place for wine merchants. in summer. Fax: 0911/23-22-444. with many nouvelle recipes. Main courses: 6€–11€ ($7. 90402 Nürnberg. AE. you can dine on a leafy outdoor terrace. V. marble-clad bathrooms. A good beer to go with your wursts is Lederer Pils. Essigbrätlein $$$$ FRANCONIAN/CONTINENTAL The city’s most ancient restaurant. www. located opposite the Rathaus and close to the church of St. 355. people typically have up to 14 for lunch. a beer brewed locally since 1468. Your bratwursts may come with sauerkraut or rye bread with very hot mustard. two. MC. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is directly across the street from the train station). Sebald. Come to sample original Nürnberger Rostbratwurst (6. three . delicious-looking pretzels (Brezeln) on your table are not free. . Children under 12 stay free in their parents’ room and baby-sitting can be arranged. The hungry consumer shouts back the number of bratwursts he wants. Bratwurst-Häusle $ FRANCONIAN The Bratwurst Häusle is the most famous bratwurst house in the city. Built before World War I. “Eins. 355. Dining in Nuremberg Nuremberg is in a region called Franconia. wood-paneled dining room warms you. Seasonal game and fish dishes also are staples in restaurants serving Franconian fare. or 0911/23220. known for its hearty and relatively uncomplicated cuisine. dating from 1550.) and so . The traditional specialty is roast loin of beef marinated in vinegar (what the name of the . Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is inventive and refreshing. or 12 pieces). You may hear the sausage seller in an open booth on the street shouting. have roomy. the open grill in the rustic. In winter. Look for an ever-changing menu based on seasonal availability. % 800/543-4300 in the U.m. drei . 10. V. each one you eat goes on your bill and costs 5. % 0911/227-695. Note: Those big.–10:30 p. zwei. AE. The locals consider fewer than six bratwursts a snack.lemeridien.50–$13). 8. Rathausplatz 1. See map p. See map p.80€ ($ 7).

you can order leg of venison with noodles and berries.m. Reservations required. 20€–42€ ($25–$52) dinner. % 0911/221-761. DC.75–$25).m. Main courses: 10€–14€ ($13–$17). Kettensteg is a nice place to relax and have a good time. spans the Pegnitz River and is an atmospheric spot to dine. and Nuremberg 359 restaurant means in German). Stuttgart. 65€–79€ ($81–$99) dinner. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 1:30 p. when the tables fill up fast and everyone stays late. fresh carp (in winter). You’ll want to dress up a bit if you’re going to dine here. Spitalgasse 16. The wine list is abundant and excellent. and 6–11:30 p. Fixed-price meals: 38€–42€ ($47–$52) lunch. .m. Vegetarians can choose from vegetable lasagna or various salads. to midnight. V. MC. Fixed-price meals: 17€ ($21) lunch. venison in red wine with plums. talking and drinking and eating under the trees. 355. Glöckleingasse 2. AE. Closed Jan 1–15 and 2 weeks in Aug (dates vary). Reservations recommended. Open: Daily 11 a. The restaurant has a fine wine list. DC. Main courses: 7€–20€ ($8. in business for 650 years. and bratwursts. V. The main dishes are typical Franconian fare. Kettensteg $ FRANCONIAN/INTERNATIONAL This restaurant. % 0911/225-131. The menu is limited to just a few dishes. Heilig-Geist-Spital $ FRANCONIAN Nuremberg’s largest historic wine house. AE. Bus: 36 to Burgstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Glöckleingasse). AE. including vintages that date back to 1889. See map p. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Winklerstrasse to Weinmarkt). Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. 355. and wurst with a mixture of onions and vinegar. the restaurant’s kitchen still features such old-fashioned but satisfying Franconian dishes as quail stuffed with gooseliver and nuts. which claims to be in the oldest house in Germany. % 0911/225-153. Among its mementos is a drinking glass reputedly used by Albrecht Dürer.. Goldenes Posthorn $$ –$$$ FRANCONIAN No other restaurant in Nuremberg can match the antique atmosphere of the Goldenes Posthorn. Wiener Schnitzel with french fries. MC. and beer garden beside the river in a romantic corner of the Altstadt is a real scene on warm evenings. In season. Although the atmosphere has become more casual and touristy in recent years. Tues–Sat 7–9:30 p. Carp is a specialty. See map p. Main courses: 20€–28€ ($25–$35).m. and so are pork knuckle and sauerbraten. 355. hearty and filling.m. DC. Weinmarkt 3. bar. See map p. such as curried chicken on rice. with more than 100 vintages. MC. V. Bus: 46 or 47 to Spitalgasse.Chapter 18: Heidelberg.

D. Open: Summer daily 11 a.).25) adults.–5 p. and 6–11:30 p. % 0911/13310. it’s the only completely preserved Gothic house left in Nuremberg.). as is a self-portrait by Rembrandt. % 0911/231-2568. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 3-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse). Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum) Germany’s largest and most important museum of German art and culture is the one must-see museum in Nuremberg. tours 2.10) students and children ages 6 through 15. and the healing arts.. 4€ ($4) children and students. Open: Mon (July–Sept only) 10 a. lived in this house from 1509 to 1528.m. Kartäusergasse 1. Admission: 5€ ($6. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Albrecht Dürer House) Albrecht Dürer. (Wed until 9 p. so walking is a pleasure.m.m.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. 500 to 750).50€ ($3. a sculptor and woodcarver known for his “nervous” angular forms and realism.–11 p. nearly all of which are found in the Altstadt.50€ ($3. Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39.m. weapons.m.m. is on display. No credit cards. created by Martin Behaim. % 0911/221-081. The collection covers the entire spectrum of German craftsmanship and fine arts from their beginnings to the present day.m. Tues–Sun 10 a. historic musical instruments. Exploring Nuremberg You need at least one full day to explore the main attractions of Nuremberg.m. Exhibits inside the house are devoted to Dürer’s life and works. original etchings and woodcuts. The extensive painting and sculpture sections include works by Renaissance greats Albrecht Dürer and Veit Stoss. Tours: Guided tours in English Sat 2 p. . dollhouses. 2.25) adults. Admission: 5€ ($6.–5 p. Furnishings in many of the rooms are important historical pieces. 355. Everyday life in Germany through the ages is documented with domestic furnishings. See map p.360 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Maxplatz 35. one of the great German artists of the Renaissance. 355. so you need to choose your areas of interest and consult the galleries’ map frequently. Bus: 36 to Maxplatz. winter daily 11 a.–6 p. folk objects. Typical of the well-to-do burghers’ houses of the 15th century.m.10). and copies of Dürer’s paintings. This is an exhaustive and exhausting place.m. It’s a huge place and not laid out in an intuitive way. The world’s first globe. Most of the historic core is for pedestrians only. and you need to give yourself at least two hours to see it. U-Bahn: Opernhaus (then a 3minute walk north on Kartäusergasse).–2:30 p. (Thurs until 8 p.m. the structure has a first floor of sandstone surmounted by two half-timbered stories and a gabled roof.m.. See map p. The prehistoric and early historical sections contain finds from the Stone Age and from the burial sites of the Merovingians (a Frankish dynasty ruling from about A. Built in 1420.m. Main courses: 8€–13€ ($10–$16).

With their heavy oak beams and painted ceilings. Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) Nuremberg is a major toy center. open Mon–Sat 9 a. is Nuremberg’s geographic and symbolic heart. The oldest portion. fruits.and machinemade — fill all three floors of this museum. Oct–Mar daily 10 a.m. marks the architectural transition from Renaissance to baroque style. now a youth hostel.. The new buildings include the Kaiserstallung (Emperor’s Stables). figures of the seven electors appear and pay homage to Emperor Karl IV. dates from 1340. The oldest part of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). just north of the Pegnitz River at the northern end of Königstrasse. Allot at least an hour to explore the various nooks and crannies of the castle.) pyramid-shaped stone fountain from 1396.–6 p. A fine view of the roofs and towers of Nuremberg can be seen from its terraces. and vegetables. Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) The Kaiserburg. every day at noon. and the castle gardens. and paintings. free for children 16 and younger.–6 p. on Rathausplatz just off the market square.– 4 p. In the northwest corner stands the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain).m. the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well). and explains the history of the castle. the massive bastions of the fortress. The council of Nuremberg erected another set of buildings in the 14th and 15th centuries when its responsibilities expanded to include the protection of the emperor.m. was the official residence of the German kings and emperors from 1050 to 1571. The rooms are decorated with period Gothic furnishings. Filled with stalls selling fresh flowers. % 0911/206-560. has been in ruins since a fire destroyed it in 1420. and Nuremberg Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square) 361 The cobblestoned Hauptmarkt. Admission: 5€ ($6. on the eastern edge of the square. The Kaiserburg Museum (% 0911/2009540) contains antique weaponry. Burgstrasse. % 0911/2446590. a later section.. the 11th-century Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower). an 18m-high (60-ft. has on its facade a gilded 16th-century mechanical clock called the Männleinlaufen (a hard-to-translate word meaning “little men running”).). Stuttgart. and toys — both hand. Most of the buildings were constructed during the 12th century.m.m. The 14th-century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 10-minute walk north following signs). See map p. 355. Sun 12:30–6 p. Open: Apr–Sept daily 9 a.m. looming above the city from its hilltop at the northern edge of the Altstadt. Some date from medieval . armor.25) adults. the Hauptmarkt is the most colorful square in the city. 4€ ($5) students.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. the great Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) on the ground floor and the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) on the second floor look much as they did when King Frederick III rebuilt them in the 15th century. who lived in the inner core of the castle complex. completed in 1622. Watchmen and guards used the ramparts with their parapet walks and secret passages to protect the kings and emperors.m.

a specially remodeled courtroom.–5 p. See map p. You don’t have to be a kid. Twin towers flank the west portal with its sculptures depicting the theme of redemption. reopened as the new Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds).50€ ($3.-Lorenz-Kirche (Church of St. Exhibits include a large collection of dolls and old dollhouses. visit the Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (International Military Tribunal). and a magnificent stained-glass rosette window glows above the organ at the west end. 55.m. though. draw. Bayernstrasse 110 (% 0911/ 231-5666). and. Admission is 2. To reach the center. or do crafts in a supervised playroom.m. Fürther Strasse 110 (% 0911/231-5421.m.m.. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. Saturday and Sunday 10 a. hangs over the entrance to the choir. the 5€ ($6. and model railways and other miniature vehicles. so tours (in German only) are available only on Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 4 p. ten were hanged.-Lorenze-Kirche was begun in 1270 and took more than 200 years to complete. and stereoscopes). 21 of the surviving leaders of the Third Reich stood trial in November 1945 for crimes against humanity. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Augustinerstrasse and north on Karlstrasse). take Tram 6 or 9 or Bus 36. Afterward.m. In November 2001. The center is open Monday through Friday 9 a. The St. times.50€ ($3). to 6 p. % 0911/231-3164. Sat–Sun 10 a. I strongly recommend a visit here because it provides a chronological overview of the rise of Nazism and its subsequent horrors in a compelling format. optical toys (such as peep shows. Kids can play with toys. to 6 p. where the Nuremberg Trials took place. the huge Congress Hall designed by Hitler’s architect. . Karlstrasse 13–15.25) adults. more if you have kids in tow. which is larger than the Colosseum in Rome.10) students and children. magic lanterns. from Adam and Eve through the Last Judgment. The church contains two more remarkable works: The Angelic Salutation (1519). 355. Objects on the top floor illustrate the history of toys since 1945.m. including Barbie dolls and LEGO blocks. to the left of the altar. or 65 to the Docu-Zentrum stop.m.–6 p. U-Bahn: Bärenschanze). in room 600. Admission: 5€ ($6.. carved in linden wood by Veit Stoss.m. The building still serves as a courthouse. Inside. Give yourself at least an hour. 2. to enjoy this acclaimed museum.25) admission includes an audio guide. Albert Speer. Here.m. soaring pillars adorned with expressive Gothic sculptures line the nave.362 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Judgment at Nuremberg If you’re interested in a famous landmark of WWII. Lawrence) The largest and most beautiful Gothic church in Nuremberg rises above Lorenzerplatz. St.. The corridor houses an exhibition that chronicles the ruthless misuse of power under National Socialism. a stone tabernacle by Adam Krafft (1496) presents likenesses of the sculptor and two apprentices. A glass corridor now pierces the upper level of Speer’s Congress Hall.

U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit).m. salad. The nave and west choir are Romanesque. Bus: 36).m. Shopping in Nuremberg Located across from the railway station. opens early for big breakfasts (served all day) that run from 4€ to 18€ ($5–$22) and offers soup. Lebkuchen (see the sidebar “Love that Lebkuchen”). handicrafts. and . Rathausplatz 7 (% 0911/204-848. and Nuremberg 363 See map p.m. sells painted tin figures of soldiers and Christmas decorations. the larger east choir.. Performances by singers and musicians. Kaiserstrasse 1–9 (% 0911/235-5075. U-Bahn: Lorenzerkirche).Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Richard-Wagner-Platz 2–10 (% 0911/231-3808. is Gothic. to 6:30 p. consecrated in 1379. and theater.. 355. U-Bahn: Weisser Turm).m. held here for some 400 years.m.–5 p. The Christmas fair transforms Hauptmarkt into a small town of wood-and-cloth stalls selling tree ornaments.m. Between the two east pillars is a 16thcentury Crucifixion group dominated by a life-size Crucifix by Veit Stoss. St. and Glühwein (hot red wine spiced with cloves and cinnamon). From Advent Sunday to December 24.. when all the surrounding buildings are floodlit. U-Bahn: Opernhaus). Steiff Galerie. The square is especially beautiful at night. See map p. % 0911/214-2516. has classic and collectible Steiff bears for 90€ to 140€ ($112–$175). % 0911/209-287. Open: Mar–May daily 9:30 a. Oct–Feb daily 9 a. An artists’ hangout. Admission: Free.m.–6 p. to 4 p. Living it up after dark in Nuremberg The Städtische Bühnen (State Theaters).m. fruitcakes. Sebalderplatz. Nuremberg’s Hauptmarkt becomes the setting for the Christkindlmarkt. the Handwerkerhof (Craftsmen’s Courtyard.–8 p. Karl-Griolenberger-Strasse 28 (% 0911/ 223-041. candies. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit the station). and puppet groups occur daily. Tickets range from 8€ to 50€ ($10–$63). and Saturday from 10 a. June–Sept daily 9:30 a. Hofman.m. tinsel. Sun 1–4 p. Triebhaus.m. is a theater complex offering productions of drama (in the Schauspielhaus) and opera (in the Opernhaus). the oldest Christmas fair in Germany.m.. dance. Admission: Free. 355. Stuttgart. Lorenzer Platz 10. The shops are open weekdays (and Sun in Dec) from 10 a. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–4 p.m. this church dedicated to Nuremberg’s patron saint represents the stylistic transition from late Romanesque to early Gothic styles. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof) is an enclave of halftimbered shops and stalls where artisans create and sell a wide range of handicrafts (along with touristy souvenirs).-Sebaldus-Kirche Consecrated in 1273.

U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche). The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a. While jealously guarding their recipes.m. sells Lebkuchen packed in containers that look like half-timbered German houses. .75). These delicious honey-andspice cakes evolved into their round shape in Nuremberg.lebkuchenschmidt.60–$8.m. Zollhausstrasse 30 (% 0911/89660.m. to 1 a. many places make and sell Lebkuchen in several different forms. to 1 a. Tetzelgasse 21 (% 0911/221-921. Sandwiches and light meals cost 4. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. sandwich specials from 4. to 1 a. The city’s been the capital of Lebkuchen since the early 15th century. to be the best Lebkuchen store in Nuremberg. Many consider Lebkuchen Schmidt. Lebkuchen makes a great.m. to 1 a.60–$7. Café Ruhestörung.m. has a pleasant patio where you can order a drink or a sandwich. Lebkuchen Frauenholz.m. www. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche).364 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Love that Lebkuchen Lebkuchen (layb-koo-kin) is to Nuremberg what Marzipan is to Lübeck.m. Bergstrasse 1 (% 0911/243-464. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. inexpensive gift.50€ to 7€ ($ until 10:30 p.m.50€ to 6€ ($5. and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a.

encompasses roughly 23. and forms Germany’s southwestern boundary as it continues west. km (9. the Rhineland’s largest and most important city. The Rhine also is at the musical heart of Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen. I give most of the coverage to Cologne. this city makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland.320km (820 miles) long.Chapter 19 Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the Rhine-side city of Cologne ᮣ Enjoying a boat trip on the Rhine ᮣ Exploring the warm wine country of the Rheingau ᮣ Taking in the scenery of the lovely Mosel Valley T he Rhine (spelled Rhein in German) is one of the world’s great rivers. Lorelei. the river originates in southeastern Switzerland. Sitting right on the river. and northwest to the North Sea. For about two centuries now. From Cologne. The Rhineland. the most famous being the one attached to a high rock called the Lorelei (also spelled Loreley) towering above the town of St. who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles. blonde hair and taking out her revenge by luring fishermen and ship captains to their destruction. medieval towns. flows through the Bodensee (Lake Constance. the Rhine has inspired many legends.) In this chapter. north. the area along the river’s west bank. Through the centuries. miles) and is a treasure-trove for tourists. she sat on the rock combing her long. so the story goes. (See “The Rhineland” map in this chapter. and vineyard-covered slopes. a lovely winegrowing section of the . see Chapter 17).000 sq. Transformed into a siren. you can drive into the Rheingau.000 sq. was a beautiful young woman who threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover. Goarshausen. Some 1. the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world.

a time of masked balls. 50. or trade-fair grounds. visitors and citizens alike stroll along the Rhine promenades and flock to outdoor taverns and restaurants to enjoy the pleasures of a Kölsch. the churches drew medieval pilgrims from all across Europe to “Holy Cologne. many of whom come to attend the giant international trade fairs held in the Köln Messe. Cologne’s unique and delicious beer. is also worth exploring.000 years of history. covered with meticulously tended vineyards. Every year they welcome millions of visitors. The range of its museums and the quality of their collections make Cologne one of the outstanding museum cities of Germany.366 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. the city boasts 12 major Romanesque churches. and a substantial meal of typical Rhineland cuisine. the Mosel Valley. Germany’s fourth-largest and oldest city.. Ancient traditions are annually renewed in the city’s raucous pre-Lenten Carnival (called Fasching). an opera at the highly regarded opera house.C.” one of the most important pilgrimage cities in medieval Christendom. I describe the highlights of all these side trips later in this chapter. whether it’s a symphony concert in the modern philharmonic hall. The Kölner themselves are refreshingly relaxed and down-to-earth in how they enjoy their city. The city also is famous as the birthplace of eau de Cologne. And although not as grand and legend-filled as the Rhine. You can see Roman ruins in an underground parking garage. On a ten-minute walk in Cologne. and getting there is easy by train. is likewise a vital component of life here. In addition to its substantial Roman legacy. car. the emperor Claudius gave the city municipal rights as capital of a Roman province. Getting there Cologne is one of the major cities in western Germany. Music. When the weather turns warm. Cologne traces its beginnings to 38 B. Cologne — spelled Köln in Germany and pronounced koeln — offers far more than just Germany’s largest cathedral. and a humble Romanesque church wedged in among luxury shops. and general delirium. Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine Visitors to this lively metropolis on the Rhine. . are immediately struck by Cologne’s cheek-by-jowl juxtaposition of the very old with the very new. Older than the cathedral. you can traverse 2. or plane. or a boisterous outdoor concert in the Rheinpark. parades. when Roman legions set up camp here. a dizzyingly ornate Gothic cathedral beside a modern museum complex. As early as A.D.

to nearly 2 a. www. The trip takes 20 minutes. . Direct flights arrive from most major European cities. The fastest and simplest way to get into the city is by taking an S-Bahn train (S-13) from the new airport train station directly to the Cologne main train station. It runs from 5 a. A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 25€ ($31). the fare is 3€ ($3.75). is located 14km (9 miles) southeast of the Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn (% 02203/ 40-40-01.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 367 The Rhineland Rh A57 A31 A3 A43 A1 Hamm A2 A44 7 0 0 64 55 30 mi Paderborn N 30 km in e 68 Herne NETHERLANDS Duisburg Essen A2 Dortmund Hamburg 7 A44 7 Mönchengladbach Hochneukirch A61 A4 Düsseldorf A46 A1 Wuppertal A45 55 ANY R MBerlin GE Bonn Area of detail Frankfurt 252 am Main A44 Cologne (Köln) A4 Siegen 62 Munich 3 Aachen Bonn Bad Godesberg A1 258 Marburg A45 A3 3 Alsfeld A5 A61 255 42 54 Giessen Wetzlar 49 Rh in e BELGIUM 9 Koblenz A3 A27 A5 A45 Daun A48 A61 54 Gelnhausen ose A1 327 Wiesbaden Rüdesheim Frankfurt am Main A3 M l Assmannshausen Bingen 50 Bitburg Mainz Aschaffenburg Rh i Bad Kreuznach LUXEMBOURG Trier Luxembourg A1 41 A63 A61 Darmstadt A5 A67 M a in ne Idar-Oberstein 271 Bockenheim Grünstadt Neuleiningen A6 9 Worms 469 A62 Mannheim Ne Kaiserslautern A8 A6 A62 Ludwigshafen Speyer 10 ckar 27 Heidelberg A6 A65 9 Saarbrücken Metz F R A N C E A5 Heilbronn Karlsruhe By plane Cologne’s airport.

next to the cathedral.75€ ($1) for children. the “new” part of town dating from the 19th century. The Altstadt spreads in a semicircle west from the Rhine to a ring road that follows the line of the 12th-century city walls (demolished. www. Deutz is where you find the Köln Messe (trade-fair grounds) and the Rhinepark. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). where you find the cathedral and most of the major attractions.368 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany By train Cologne is a major rail hub. so reaching the city from anywhere in Germany or the rest of Europe is easy. U-Bahn (subway). Frequent daily trains arrive from Berlin (trip time: 51⁄2 hours). on the Rhine’s east bank. A CityTicket. Getting around The compact and pedestrian-friendly Altstadt.m. The A3 Autobahn connects the city to the north and south. the restored and much altered medieval core of the city. tram. (See the “Cologne” map in this chapter. where the Romans built their first walled colony.75). including the mighty cathedral and the most important museums. good for a single one-way fare within the inner city is 1. a room-rental service (3€/$3.m. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. Finding information The Köln Tourismus Office. while the A4 Autobahn travels east and west. the Kölner Tageskarte. to 5 p. For train information and schedules. is located just a few steps from the cathedral. The office has city maps. and S-Bahn (light-rail) system. The area across the river.) The center of the Altstadt is the Innenstadt (Inner City).50€ ($2) for adults. costs 8€ ($10) and enables you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network (but the Cologne Welcome and Hamburg (trip time: 41⁄2 hours). and Sunday 10 a.bahn. is a . Frankfurt (trip time: 21⁄2 hours). the historical heart of Cologne.” later in this chapter. A day ticket. By car Cologne is easily reached from major German cities. The city’s early industrial plants were concentrated in Deutz. is called Deutz. Besides providing the best views of the cathedral-dominated Cologne skyline. Unter Fettenhennen 19 (% 0221/221-30400. and many of them are still there. and information on city attractions. in the 19th century). Getting oriented The major sights of Cologne. 0. The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is in the heart of the city. The city also has an excellent bus. is easily explored on foot.m. described under “Exploring except for three The office is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. The ring road and a greenbelt in the southwest (the location of the university) girdle Neustadt.m. to 8 p. are located in the Altstadt (Old Town).

Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 369 Cologne 0 0 0.P rb e g th erl Ro en bach gra b ba Mü Waidmarkt str . V ictori astrass tr.25 km Uf e M Turiner Wi Kai lhe ser lm -Ri ng Tunisstrasse Mohrenstrasse Am Gereonshof Gere onst r. Thieboldgasse 12 LeonhardTietz-Str.A Gl Erftstrasse ad Strenba ass ch e er ll tra wa Ein ns reo e G Kyotostr. iden ga sse us ALTSTADT-S ALTSTADT-SÜD V Sieb or den en b u rg en us er- rge ga s se ergLandsb e strass asse nstr Rose Hamburg Berlin en-e Bay ass str e bu GERMANY Cologne r- W . ALTSTADT-NORD M a r zellens t r .25 mi 0. s en - Köln Messe e r n -Str Auf dem Berlich senstr. e Ur s u las Machab äerst ras se de n a ue Ha a ns rin g s cht Eigelstein b ay ac Strasse Domstrasse Dagobertst rasse R h i n e N r tr hs as se Ha g rin nsa nso re Ge wall Thürmchenswall 1 RHEINPARK tr. erst Neue W ey We sse kt G r o n ma r ch e G ri e au Bl er. str. St. Johan nisstr. Mindener s s t ras s e St ras s e Minoritenstrasse Fischmarkt rger Habsbug rin Ei fe Am Leystapel - Mau ritius wall ng l lner Neukö e Strass Hohe nstau in w fenri eg Holz- TelAviv -Str asse Severin strasse markt r lsbe be Ga gerstrasse l al lw . 3 3 Go Haupt. ach nb h le Fitzengraben Ja hn auRhein strasse ch n e R h i strasse Severi nsbrück e en ass Am ais el- str en os ha M xem U llr Bus Ka Lo th rin Sa ge rS Lu rtä se chg ich Barbarossaplatz Sa lie rri Bu ng rg un str de as se rs tr. Friesen. Agripp Ro on h str bac as se r. i n er gu st Au Pipi nstr. Zeu g haus rgmauer Bu . E hr e n s t r a s se Br e i t e T u ni 10 Brüc ke str .-A p Richmodstr. ch sse Vo tra tra NEUSTADT Eif rte n VOLKSGARTEN str.Ma Frie gnu sstra sse platz Hohenzol lernFriesenwall ring s t r. Frankfurt Munich wall erin Sev sUbie rrin g els ACCOMMODATIONS Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Excelsior Hotel Ernst 3 Hotel Engelbertz 11 Hyatt Regency Köln 2 Senats Hotel 14 DINING Bräuhaus Sion 7 Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Früh am Dom 8 Hanse Stube 3 Sünner im Walfisch 15 Taku 3 ATTRACTIONS Dom 4 4711 Haus 10 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 9 Museum Ludwig 6 Kölner-Seilbahn 1 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 5 Schnütgen Museum 12 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 13 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn i Siegburger Str. lks sse ga rin ll K a r tä use Eifelplatz n- wa g f rho D r eik ö n i g ens t r. astr. Mauri tiusste Neumarkt Gürzenichstr. 13 Heumarkt Fleischme ngerg. n - 14 Alter Markt 11 lzg. r- Tanzbrunnen n imi M ax t r . i 9 8 Hohe Strasse Hohenzollernbrücke 4 5 Am Ho f INNENSTADT 6 7 Frankenverft 2 DEUTZ S tr .gasslde bahnhof Kennedy-Ufer Ch rist str oph. 15 Sa 16 16 Deutzer Brüc ke Mittelstrasse Rudolfplatz SchilderCäcilien- gasse Nordt Süd Fahr Hahnenstr. Alten Uf er Konrad .

369. or at the stations. % 0221/272-7777. See map p. . right on the Rhine in the busiest section of the Altstadt.” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events in Germany. Rates include buffet breakfast. 50667 Köln. The 31 rooms are fairly basic but comfortable and not lacking in a kind of old-fashioned charm. all with small bathrooms that have a tub or shower. www. Excelsior Hotel Ernst ($$$$). from bus drivers. and general some rooms have beamed ceilings. call Taxi-Ruf at % 0221/19410. you climb up a curving. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). Be sure to validate your ticket. plus 1€ ($1. validation machines are in stations and on buses. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt The two town houses that make up this hotel stand on a corner of a historic square. call VRS at % 01803/504-030.25) if you hail a taxi from the street.50€ ($3). The decoration throughout is light. The hotel has 40 rooms. the fare rises 1. wooden staircase (or take the elevator) to your room. Hotel Engelbertz $ Altstadt This modest. Natives call this citywide celebration Fasteleer or Fastelovend. For information about public transportation. the city’s “fifth season. and modern. Purchase tickets from the automated machines (labeled Fahrscheine). family-run hotel is in a central location close to everything in the Altstadt. Fischmarkt 1–3. parades. 90€–108€ ($112–$135) double with bathroom.50€ ($2) per kilometer thereafter. Rates: 64€–85€ ($80–$106) double without Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Celebrating carnival in Cologne Cologne’s Carnival. cheery. The city buzzes with masked balls. From the wine restaurant on the ground floor (see “Dining in Cologne. To order a taxi. The season officially lasts from New Year’s Eve to Ash Wednesday. Staying in Cologne Also see Chapter 22 for details on Cologne’s premier hotel. Fax: 0221/257-4232.” later in this chapter). Ten units come with a small. Taxi meters start at 2. tiled bathroom with shower. better deal because it includes public transportation and free or reduced-price entry to museums and other attractions).

Von-Sparr-Str./Bf Süd 17 Raiffeisenstr. Nesselrodestr. Gilgaustr. 18 K-Longerich 9 Scheibenstr. Porz Steinstr. weg rsdo nerg Str. 9 Gottesweg Klettenbergpark Michaelshoven Rosenhügel Kalscheurer Weg 19 Sürth Efferen Zollstockgürtel Godorf Zündorf Kiebitzweg 7 Wesseling Nord Hürth-Hermülheim Zollstock Südfriedhof Wesseling Fischenich 12 Brühl-Vochem Wesseling Süd Brühl Nord Urfeld Brühl Mitte Brühl Süd Widdig Brühl-Badorf Uedorf Brühl-Schwadorf Hersel Walberberg Merten 18 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn 371 Sankt Augustin Ort . Mommsen-str. Sülzburgstr. au nfo M be er Fr ch pe pp im rS e th rS ek nw en ba ück sthe he Ka ldae Ho ue ölne fra Kipp rank r öh Kalk Mer Fieh u e lk e m u B I L a H R F N F K K 1 Bensberg . platz Escher Str. Porz Porz-Wahn Spich Troisdorf Köln / Bonn Flughafen c Fre Siegburg He nn ef en nk Bla bu rg M e art n o Eit rf n ld rn h he nfe de ac rsc tte sb Au (Sieg) hla He Da Sc Ro Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Sankt Augustin-Mülldorf Sankt Augustin Markt Sankt Augustin Kloster Buschdorf 16 Severinsbrücke Drehbrücke Zülpicher Platz Poller Kirchweg Gleuser Str. Am Emberg K-Worringen K-Chorweiler Nord 6 15 K-Chorweiler Chorweiler 7 K Volkhovener Weg 8 Niehl Mülheim Berliner Str. Severinstr./ Piusstr. Berrenrather Str. 19 Heimersdorf Longericher Herforder Str. Berliner Str. Pohligstr. Str ter r fu nk f mp fad n Fra dho . n Gürtel dio m Sta Hans-Böckler-Platz ru Oskar-Jägarie nt rf Bf West Friesenplatz Ze tr. 3 13 Mengenich Oflenhauerring 5 Ossendorf 15 e feld k üc M k üc rS s au up Ha tr. K-Deutz Dom/Hbf Christophstr. Schönhauser Str./ oh nk ein eid h Maarweg Gürtel Universitäts-str. Frechen-Benzeirath K Airport Businesspark 7 se as M g len üh Fre e ch nR at u ha s nK he irc he K Steinstr. horrem Sindorf 1 Weinsbergstr. rin r St chst är e ilit pen nba Dürener Str. Neumarkt Weyertal 15 Baumschulenweg Mersdorf Universität 6 Kölner Str. Takuplatz Platz K-Mülheim Zoo / Flora LenauAkazienweg K-Nippes Grünstr. Ensen Arnulfstr. K-Blumenberg 5 Odenthaler Str. K Hansaring K Ehrenfeld K-Müngersdorf / Technologiepark Venicer Str. r g ma swe en ttg Rö Königsforst 9 Melaten Wüllner-str. Maria Himmelfahrt Str. K-Buchforst Nußbaumerstr. Os Au to th eim hn ba Ste e inw Köln Hbf g Po rze Bf Deutz / Messe r r llb llb De De . 3 Schaffrathsgasse 4 16 Buchheim Herfer Str./ M e Eu Clar Gürtel ter l A Brahmsstr. Lohsestr. d pfa tst r.S-Bahn Langenfeld LEV-Rheindorf 12 Merkenich 1 Nievenheim 3 LEV-Küppersteg Schiebusch LEV Mitte Bayerwerk K-Stammheim Bergisch Gladbach K-Dellbrück K-Holweide Duckterath 13 4 Dormagen Dormagen Bayerwek 4 Merkenich Mitte Fordwerke Nord Fordwerke Mitte Fordwerke Süd Geestemünder Str. Wolffsohnstr. Leuchterstr. Bayenhalgürtel Frechen Bahnhof Eifelplatz Chlodwigplatz Kloster Heinrich-Lübke-Ufer Euskirchener Str. u Ne Bocklemünd 17 Thielenbruch 18 19 Breslauer Platz / Hbf Koelnmesse Osthallen Wilhelm-Sollmann-Str./ Rodenkirchen Herthastr. Stegerwaldsiedlung Ebertplatz Subbelrather Str. Gutenbergstr. Gürtel Stüttgenhof 8 Poll Salmstr. Altonaer Platz 6 12 Longerich Friedhof Meerfeldstr. Dasselstr./Gürtel Liebigstr./ Ulreporte Lindenburg Ubierring Eifelwall Haus Vorst Westhoven Gürtel Weißhausstr. Holweide Vischering Str. Düren g ift r. Wichheimer Str. / Gürtel K Geldernstr. Sülz Hermeskeller Platz Sülzgürtel 8 Porz Markt Gürtel Siegstr. Zülpicher Str. Mollwitzstr. Bottensternstr. 17 Buchheim Frankfurter Str. eg tr. sp ka se rst ie rg str en au ide lle tr./Gürtel n e s n e e n Aachener Str. Parkgürtel Kinderkrankenhaus Margaretastr. Str. Eifelstr. Mauritluskirche Buir Merzenich K Frankfurter Str. Keupstr. Waldecker Str. W Ba M Ju Rh Bf Deutz / DeutzKölnarena Kalker Bad Deutzer Freiheit u He Weiden Schulstr. K-Lövenich Kalk Post K Trimbornstr. Im Weidenbruch 16 Niehl Sebastianstr. Wiener Florastr. Westfriedhof Mülheim Iltisstr./Gürtel Leyendeckerstr. Str. Amsterdamer Neusser Str. Moltke-str./ Rektor-Klein-Str./ Mediapark Körnerstr./Gürtel Slabystr. tr rS th Ra - FrechenKönigsdorf Appeilhofplatz Heumarkt Suevenstr. Reichenspergerplatz Außere Kanalstr.

Senats Hotel $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map To eat and drink as the Kölner do. north on Hohe Strasse. sauna. Tatar (finely minced raw beef mixed with egg yolk. 50679 Köln-Deutz. Obenmarspforten 1–3. Rates include buffet breakfast. The furnishings in the 59 rooms have a comfortable. MC. Fax: 0221/828-1370. % 0221/257-8994. Kennedy-ufer 2A. Cologne is not a city particularly known for its gourmet dining. DC. AE. Rates: 160€–375€ ($200–$469) double. Rates: 100€ ($125) double. Unter Goldschmied 9–17. The Hyatt has fine restaurants and a fitness center with a pool. % 0221/20620. Matjesfilet mit grünen Bohnen (pickled white herring served with green butter beans and potatoes). V. Hyatt Regency Köln $$ –$$$$ Deutz Located in Deutz.hotel-engelbertz. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across Roncalliplatz and south on Unter Goldschmied). AE. and spices and served on bread or a roll). Rather. modern style. later in this section). Himmel und Äd (apples and . The staff can arrange baby-sitting. Bathrooms have deep tubs with showers. Fax: 0221/ 257-8924. See map p. and east on Obenmarspforten). and steam room. stylish hotel with its bright-yellow lobby is located in the heart of the Altstadt. AE. this modern full-service hotel features a dramatic lobby with a waterfall and a glamorous overall ambience. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Gürzenichstrasse. Kölsch Kaviar (smoked blood sausage served with raw onion rings). onions. visit one of the city’s old tavernrestaurants (see listings for Früh am Dom and Bräuhaus Sion. a five-minute walk across the Rhine from the train station. The 305 rooms are comfortably large and stylishly furnished. 369. MC. Local dishes at these and other nongourmet restaurants generally include Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese). Bathrooms are on the small side but vary according to the room. www. Rates: 120€–245€ ($150– $306). Hämchen (cured pork knuckle cooked in vegetable broth). MC. V. 50667 Köln. % 0180/523-1234 or 0221/ 828-1234. generally over enormous portions of typical Rhineland fare in crowded restaurants that are gemütlich (cozy) rather than www. it’s a place for conversation and drinking. The hotel has a nice ambience throughout. 369. See map www. Many have views of the Rhine and the cathedral on the other side. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across the bridge). Dining in Cologne Although several highly rated restaurants have established themselves here in recent years. Rates include breakfast. 50667 Köln.senats-hotel. Fax: 0221/ 206-2200. V.

Open: Daily 11 a.50€ ($2) for a small glass of Kölsch on tap. The Bräuhaus also has a few rooms upstairs that it rents out.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 373 potatoes boiled and mashed together and served with fried blood sausage). and Speckpfannekuchen (pancakes fried in smoked bacon fat). Closed Dec 22–Jan 10. Kölsch has an alcohol content of about 3 percent (most other types of German beer have an alcohol content ranging from 4 percent to 6 percent). Main courses 9€–16€ ($11–$20). % 0221/257-8540.50€–23€ ($12–$28). or sauerbraten (pot. a dry. V. The waiters always serve the beer in a tall. which they bring to your table in a special carrier called a Kölschkranz. Bockwurst (sausage) with potato salad. Bräuhaus Sion $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN If you want a traditional local Bräuhaus where the beer is good. Expect to pay about 1. the wood paneling a little smoky with time and frequent polishing. you can order a Kölsch from one of the blue-aproned waiters. west on Mühlengasse. Fish main courses include roasted pikeperch on lentils with balsamic vinegar and salmon poached in Rhine wine. topfermented beer that’s brewed only in Cologne. The menu also includes vegetarian and pasta dishes. Although the wine is the main reason for coming (the local Rhine wines are that special). AE. the cuisine also is very good. delicious. Reservations recommended. thin glass. marinated herring. % 0221/272-7777.m. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). such as Riesenhämchen (boiled pigs’ knuckles) with sauerkraut. See map p.–11 p. If you go to any of the taverns in town.m. a double with bathroom and breakfast goes for 60€ ($ 75). You may start with escargots. you’ll probably like Kölsch (koehlsch). Unter Taschenmacher 5. and the food portions inexpensive and generous.or oven-roasted marinated beef) with an almond-raisin sauce. No credit cards. and potato dumplings. Open: Daily noon to 11:30 p. A Rhineland meat specialty is sauerbraten with almonds. called a Köbes. just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral. and north on Unter Taschenmacher). See map p. Fischmarkt 1–3. raisins. see “Staying in Cologne” earlier in this chapter) opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine. Kölsch: Cologne’s beer of choice Even if you don’t like beer. or stuffed mushrooms. 369. called a Stangen.m. . 369. Sion is the place. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north along the Rhine promenade. Main courses: 9. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This popular wine restaurant (and hotel. The main courses are traditional and filling Rhineland fare. MC.

Sat–Sun 11 a. on a narrow street set back from the Rhine. iced melon risotto with shrimp skewer. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. Fri 3 p. DC. has a 1. No credit cards. You can eat in the upstairs or downstairs dining rooms (upstairs. Main courses: 14€–30€ ($17–$37). and leg of venison with a cognac-thyme sauce.374 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Früh am Dom $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN This Bräuhaus is the best all-around for atmosphere. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Salzgasse). 369. For dessert. You may try the pork cutlet with fried onions and crispy roast potatoes or the land-and-sea platter with roast beef and several kinds of fish.m. V. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p.m. 369. Tasty main courses include basil risotto. elegant surroundings. In summer. to midnight. AE. Open: Mon–Thurs 5 p. this tavern also has a beer garden. to midnight. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and across Roncalliplatz to Am Hof). a Cologne specialty of smoked pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and potato purée. % 0221/261-3250. V. on the ground floor. 369.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse).m. Other specialties include Sauerkrautsuppe (sauerkraut soup) and Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings). is a good choice for atmospheric dining. Open: 8 a. A favorite dish is Hämchen. Reservations recommended. A step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered facade. with a different German specialty offered every day of the week. is better). % 0221/270-3402. The menu is in English. Salzgasse 13.000-year-old brewing tradition. Am Hof 12–14. Main courses: 9. Domplatz. The menu changes daily but may include crayfish and avocado salad or grilled scallops for starters. it dates from 1626. the tavern’s beer on tap. Reservations recommended.50€–19€ ($12–$24). % 0221/257-7879. AE. See map p. Sünner im Walfisch $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/FRENCH This Bräuhaus.m. how about strawberries with cappuccino-chocolate sauce? The wine list is exemplary. to midnight. See map p. Fixed-price menus: 72€–79€ ($90–$99). and hearty portions. economy. MC. to midnight. and 6:30–10:30 p. Früh-Kölsch. See map p. DC. Fixed-price business lunch: 30€–38€ ($37–$47). Main courses: 9€–17€ ($11–$21). stuffed kohlrabi with truffle. The restaurant serves many Rhineland specialties and dishes influenced by French cuisine. . Hanse Stube offers excellent cuisine and service in quiet. MC.m. Hanse Stube $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH One of Cologne’s top gourmet restaurants.

a beef filet salad. The food is good. Consecrated in 1322. the service highly professional. Domplatz. The famous Three Kings windows in the clerestory (the area above the nave) were installed in the early 14th century. Upon completion. the largest cathedral in northern Europe. % 0221/270-3910. the Asian restaurant in the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. The giant reliquary is a masterpiece of goldsmith work dating from the end of the 12th century. it’s a wonder that the Gothic facade is stylistically coherent. a twoday card costs 14€ ($17). its twin filigreed spires rising to a height of 157m (515 ft.m. is the most important part of the cathedral. round off your visit with an evening stroll along the Rhine promenade in Deutz. which can be visited only on guided tours. the Cologne cathedral was the tallest building in the world. DC. A one-day card costs 9€ ($11). The restaurant’s striking design includes a serpentine fish tank built into the floor. seared monkfish with green mango salad. Overwhelming is the simplest way to describe it. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). MC. AE. is good for travel on all forms of public transportation and gets you into most museums for free or at a reduced cost. See map p. 369.m. is a serenely comfortable spot to enjoy sea-fresh sushi and sashimi. or curry with beef filet. and 6–10 p. The Dreikönigschrein (Shrine of the Three Magi). More than 600 years elapsed from the laying of the cornerstone in 1248 to the placement of the last finial (a decorative element) on the south tower in 1880. and a one-day family/group card good for two adults and two children or three adults costs 18€ ($22). In addition to some magnificent Renaissance-era stained-glass windows in the north aisle. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. V. Fixed-price dinner menus: 49€–69€ ($61–$86). Exploring Cologne You find the cathedral and all the major museums in the Innenstadt. available from the tourist office. richly carved oak stalls. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. The Cologne Welcome Card. Reservations recommended for dinner.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Taku $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt JAPANESE/ASIAN 375 Taku. or more ambitious dishes such as sweet-and-sour prawn soup with baked pineapple. screen paintings. the cathedral . The choir. and a series of statues made in the cathedral workshop between 1270 and 1290. Dom (Cathedral) Considering how much time passed during the building of this gigantic edifice.). Main courses: 23€–37€ ($29–$46). the roughly half-square-mile area of the original Roman colony. After a day of sightseeing. is the cathedral’s major treasure. housed in a glass case at the end of the choir. the choir contains original.

– 6 p.m. Admission: Round-trip ticket 5.. An der Rechtsschule. treasury daily 10 a.m.m. Tours: English-language tours Mon–Sat 11 a. See map p.50) children and students.–5 p. (winter until dusk). Flemish in the precision of its execution. % 0221/221-23860. Kölner Seilbahn (Cologne Cable Car) You get the best panoramic view of the city of Cologne by taking the Kölner Seilbahn. Give yourself about an hour to see everything. The painting is a masterpiece of the Cologne school — Italian in format. Open: Tues–Sun 11 a. the first and only cable-car system in Europe designed to span a major river.–7:30 p. The trip takes about 15 minutes each way.10) children and students. See map p. hanging in a chapel on the north side of the choir. You can make a circuit of the interior in about half an hour. Open: Cathedral daily 6 a.60€ ($3. Riehler Strasse 180.25) adults. Sun 2 and 3:30 p.m. 2€ ($2. include rooms and furniture by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.m. tower alone 2€ ($2. Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) The treasures on display in this museum include furniture. Admission: Cathedral free. In operation since 1957.90) adults. the guided tours last one hour. and 12:30. the exhibits. and handicrafts from the Middle Ages to the present day. See map p. The Gero Cross.. treasury and tower combined 5€ ($6.25) children 6–12. . Adoration of the Magi. German architect Mies van der Rohe.m. 369. 2.50€ ($3.20€ ($5. 369.25) adults. exclusively from the 20th century. and you aren’t missing much if you skip it. created around 1445. and the American designer Charles Eames.50) adults. Admission: 4. On the south side of the choir is Stephan Lochner’s altarpiece. 2. you can climb the 509 stairs of the 14th-century south tower (entry through the Portal of St. home décor. and 3:30 p. the enclosed gondolas cross the river beside the Zoobrücke (Zoo Bridge) between the Rheinpark in Deutz and the zoo.50€ ($6.–6 p. The cathedral’s Schatzkammer (Treasury) is rather disappointing. 1€ ($1. tower daily 9 a. 369. you’re in reasonably good shape. among others. Domkloster. is a rare monumental sculpture carved in Cologne in the late tenth century and reputedly the oldest-existing large-scale crucifix in the Western world. % 0221/547-4184. tour cost: 4€ ($5) adults. U-Bahn: Zoo/Flora (then a 2-minute walk south to the departure point on the west side of the river).–5 p. If.m.m.m.m.m.m. 2.75) children.m.. Open: Apr–Oct daily 10 a. You get a great view of the cathedral and the river traffic along the Rhine.25) children and students. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the Dom on Unter Fettenhenn to An der Rechtsschule). On the ground floor and mezzanine.376 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany really has only two other must-see treasures. % 0221/9258-4730. Peter) for an inspiring view of the city and the Rhine. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (you see the cathedral as you come out of the train station). 3€ ($3. on the other hand. The Art Nouveau room is particularly impressive.

and so on. produced in a Rhineland workshop in the third century and discovered in 1941 by workers digging an air-raid shelter.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 377 The Roman city of Colonia By 50 B. look at the section of the Roman North Gate preserved on Domplatz in front of the cathedral. Exhibits represent nearly every major artist and art movement of the 20th century. Julius Caesar had extended the borders of the Roman Empire as far as the Rhine and established an alliance with the Germanic Ubii tribe on the site of presentday Cologne. dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art. .C. 5. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and east on Roncalliplatz). is inextricably bound with the history of Rome — a legacy that is documented in this fascinating museum. trade and industry. On the second floor. You need at least an hour to browse through the entire museum. % 0221/221-22379. Museum Ludwig This museum. when the Roman legions were recalled from the Rhine frontier. On the lowest level. is the tomb of Lucius Poblicius. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. 369.50€ ($7) children and students. you can see a superlative collection of Roman glassware and a world-renowned collection of Roman jewelry. The area became a military garrison with an imperial shrine and eventually was granted rights as a Roman city called Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (CCAA) in A.50€ ($9. The museum covers the period that extends from the Stone Age to the period of Charlemagne (9th century). on the right side of the museum is Hafenstrasse. the cult of the dead. which once ran down to the Roman harbor. more if you love modern art.D. Portions of an original Roman wall still stand beneath Domplatz in the underground parking lot. which extols the joys of good living.50) adults. and was known in Latin as the crux gamata. Before you enter. Centuries before the symbol became ominously identified with the atrocities of the Third Reich. 40 for a Roman officer.m. opened in 1986. constructed around A. Cologne’s Roman period lasted until A.D..D. the swastika — probably Indian in origin — was a symbol of good luck and happiness. Towering over the mosaic. a street paved with its original stones. The Roman-Germanic Museum was built around the magnificent Dionysius mosaic. is devoted to the history of photography. The exhibits explore themes or types: religious life. Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) Cologne’s history.–6 p. you find an ancient black-andwhite mosaic floor covered with swastikas. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m. The Agfa-Foto-Historama. See map p. and the fabric of the city today. Admission: 7. a museum within the museum. Give yourself at least an hour. devoted to the daily life of the Romans. it is the largest antique tomb ever found north of the Alps. 50. 401.

Edvard Munch. Wallraf-Richartz Museum The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is one of the country’s greatest repositories of art from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century.m. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. Roncalliplatz 4. a skeleton has been spray-painted on the walled-in western portal of the church. and Vincent van Gogh. Sat–Sun 11 a. Here you find Rubens’s Self-Portrait Amidst the Circle of Friends from Mantua and an enigmatic self-portrait by Rembrandt.m.m.m. 369. and sculpture on display give you an idea of the artistic blessings bestowed upon “Holy Cologne. See map p.95€ ($5) children.m. Sat–Sun 11 a. The new museum nicely shows off the art but somehow feels like an office building from the 1950s. Gustave Courbet. Admission: 6.25) adults. The relics. % 0221/221-22304. Cecilia. 369.90€ ($2.50) children. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk south past the cathedral to Roncalliplatz). Called simply Tod (Death). U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Unter Käster to Martinstrasse).378 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p.m. which becomes Cäcilienstrasse). % 0221/221-22310. Try not to miss this small. See map p.m. Cäcilienstrasse 29. . 3.. Ursula in particular. Opened in 1861.m.–5 p.80€ ($7. reliquaries. In addition to important French and Spanish works.– 6 p. % 0221/221-21119. Schnütgen Museum The Romanesque church of St.. Cäcilien (St. Wed–Fri 10 a.20€ ($4) adults. the museum boasts a rich collection of 19th-century paintings.m. with major pieces by the German Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich. Martinstrasse 39. you find an outstanding collection of paintings by the medieval Cologne school (most done between 1330 and 1550).–5 p. Open: Tues 10 a. among scores of others.–5 p. the museum also is one of Germany’s oldest. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m.45€ ($8) adults. In 2000. Give yourself about two hours if you want to browse through all the galleries.m. Admission: 3. around the back. U-Bahn: Neumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Pipinstrasse. Admission: 5. Many of the paintings and altarpieces depict legends from the lives of martyred saints who became identified with the “Holy Cologne” of the Middle Ages — St. patron saint of music) houses one of Cologne’s finest art collections.–8 p. the museum moved to a new building designed by Cologne architect Oswald Mathias Ungers. A memorable collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings holds pride of place on the second floor. this oddly engaging work is by the Zurich graffiti artist Harald Nägele.m. crucifixes. Auguste Renoir. 369.” Outside.30€ ($4) students and children. On the first floor. The Renaissance section includes works by Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach. 1..–6 p. splendid sampling of sacred art from the early Middle Ages to the baroque. 3.

Discovering nightlife in Cologne One of Germany’s major cultural centers. Schildergasse is where you find international men’s fashions. organ grinders. You can purchase tickets at a venue’s box office (Kasse) or at Köln MusikTicket. and even as premoistened towelettes. Cologne offers a variety of fine arts and nightlife Glockengasse 4711 (% 0221/925-0450.” or simply “cologne. fruit sellers. stocks a large selection of art postcards and greeting cards. www. To find out what’s going on in the city. and endless stores. fine leather bags and purses. pick up a copy of Monats Vorschau (1. the main north–south street in Roman times. jammed every day except Sunday with shoppers. The street number eventually became the trademark name for their product. Shopping in Cologne The first Füssgänger (pedestrians-only) shopping zones in Germany originated in Cologne and present a seemingly endless and interconnected conglomeration of shops and shopping arcades. snack shops.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 379 Cologne from Cologne: No. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). and perfumeries. as soap. 4711. 4711 Haus. another early producer of Kölnisch Wasser. Walter König’s Postkartenlade.” but Echt Kölnisch Wasser (the original eau de Cologne) remains the official designation of origin for the distinctive toilet waters created in the city of Cologne.50€/$2) at newsstands). Hohe Strasse. Roncalliplatz 4. is now Cologne’s busiest commercial drag. 4711 Any kind of toilet water is now called “eau de Cologne.25). Ehrenstrasse 104. . The smallest bottle costs about 5€ ($6. Breite Strasse 93. You can buy 4711 cologne in all sizes and shapes. next to the cathedral (% 0221/2801. you find all the major international designer-clothing boutiques.koelnticket. stores selling silver. also lived and worked in this house at no. and Italian designer shoes. The Mühlens family. Apostelnstrasse 21 (% 0221/257-0108). and French. German. Three specialty shops worth knowing about: Schirmbusch. On Hohe Strasse and its surrounding streets. sells the orange-and-lavender-scented water first developed in Cologne in 1709 by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). and Filz Gnoss. carries a huge selection of umbrellas. sells unusually decorated and comfortable felt slippers and those enormous Überpantoffeln you slip over your shoes and slide around in when touring German palaces. musicians. fine jewelry. and the big department stores.

and .m. Jazz clubs Klimperkasten (also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon). to 3 a. www. according to the event.m.koelner-philharmonie.buehnenkoeln. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). is the home of two fine orchestras: the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra). Friday and Saturday from 9 a. open from 10 p. is open from 10 p. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). to 1 a. is a small and intimate jazz and piano bar with live music every night beginning around 8 p. E-Werk is open every Friday and Saturday night at 10 p.m. open Sunday to Thursday from 9 a. to 2 or 3 a. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). to 1 a. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1 (% 0221/2801. a gay leather bar in the Marienplatz area. each with its own performances and schedules. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). Dance clubs E-Werk.m. The Schauspielhaus. U-Bahn: Heumarkt)..m.m. The bar is open daily from noon to midnight during the week and from 11 a. on the weekend. Ticket prices vary. anywhere from 8€ to 80€ ($10–$100). U-Bahn: Zulpicherplatz). Quo Vadis Pub.m. is best on Offenbachplatz (% 0221/22128400. Tickets range from 11€ to 100€ ($14–$125).380 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Performing arts The Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. The most sophisticated rendezvous for gays and lesbians in Cologne is Gloria. is a combination disco–concert hall housed within a former electrical power plant. a good gay bar for men and women. Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera).m. is near Marienplatz at Pipinstrasse 7 (% 0221/258-1414. U-Bahn: Keupstrasse). completed in the late 1980s. Dance programs also take place here. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). U-Bahn: Heumarkt). Buttermarkt 37 (% 0221/257-7931.m. is the site of three theaters. Apostelnstrasse 11 (% 0221/254-433. Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/8400. Alter Markt 50–52 (% 0221/258-2132. Gay and lesbian bars Chains. Recorded music alternates with live acts. Live bands and DJs play for dancers at MTC. Schanzenstrasse 28 (% 0221/962-790. Stephansstrasse 4 (% 0221/238-730.m. www. with a cover of 4€ to 10€ ($5–$13). to 3 Zulpicher Strasse 10 (% 0221/170-2764. when the music begins at 3:30 p. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). The hall also presents pop and jazz programs. is the Rhineland’s leading opera house.

m. For more information on Rhine River cruises. and 9:45 a. or visit the company’s Web site at www.80€ ($8. also serves the local beer.m. and returning at 7:20 p. www. noon. Seating is available indoors and Heumarkt 62 (% 0221/257-7765.50). contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. The tour departs daily at 10:30 a.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 381 Cruises along the Rhine Cologne is a major embarkation point for Rhine cruises. Even if you don’t have time for a long Rhine cruise. a short walk south from the cathedral. and returns at 5:45 p. The round-trip cost is 46€ ($57). 2 p.m. The club doesn’t charge a cover. rivercruises. is a scenic winegrowing region like the nearby Rheingau (see the “Sampling the wines of Rheingau” sidebar in this chapter).com). offers boat tours of the Rhine from Cologne. departing Mainz daily at 8:45 a. U-Bahn: Friesenplatz). If you want to see the most scenic stretch of the Rhine. NY 10577 (% 800/346-6525). The club is also open for live jazz Monday to Saturday from 7 p. to midnight. Beautiful Scenery The Mosel Valley.m.. and 6 p. to 2 a. you can enjoy a trip on the river aboard one of the many local boats.80€ ($12).m..m.m. Taverns Päffgen Bräuhaus. with the legendary Lorelei rock and many hilltop castles. Frankenwerft 15 (% 0221/208-8318. Prerecorded commentary in English plays on both of these sightseeing cruises. with German dishes. A daily Nachmittags (afternoon) cruise with Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) leaves at 3:30 p. U-Bahn: Heumarkt).m. Purchase.. lasts until 1 a. 2500 Westchester Ave.k-d. take one of KD’s daylong cruises between Mainz and Koblenz. Friesenstrasse 64–66 (% 0221/135-461. The tavern is open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to midnight.m. a 110-year-old tavern. The cost is 6.m.. southwest of Cologne. represented in North America by JFO Cruise Service. Winding through the steep slopes of the Eifel and . along with regional cuisine. serves its Kölsch brand of beer. The tavern is open daily from 10 a. KD (Köln–Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt).m. Kölsch. The Mosel Valley: Great Wines. Altstadt Päffgen.m. the cost is 9. The KD ticket booth and boarding point is right on the river. and 8:20 p. The one-hour Panorama Rundfahrt (round-trip) is a pleasant way to see the stretch of Rhine immediately around Cologne.

) The valley encompasses thousands of acres of vineyards. to 5 p. The round-trip fare is 22€ ($28).. April through October. is open daily mid-March to November 9 a. the prettier A53 runs alongside the Mosel between Zell and Schweich.cochem.k-d. boats depart daily from Koblenz at 9:45 Cochem is a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. You can also reach Cochem by train from either of those cities. If you’re driving through the Mosel Valley. Admission is 4.m. contact the Cochem tourist information office. From late April to late October.m. Cochem’s biggest attraction is Reichsburg Cochem (% 02671/255). is open November through March. The similar Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. For information. Stopping in Cochem About halfway down the Mosel River from Koblenz is Cochem. medieval castles. begins the first week of June. Roman ruins. A return boat departs at 3:40 p.m.50€ ($5. The tourist information office. and 2 to 5 p. a boat operated by KD (% 0221/20881. where the waters flow into the Rhine. a full 10 percent of the national sails down the Mosel to Cochem. to 6 p. Monday through Friday 9 a. the most famous and photographed sight along the Mosel River. Cochem is your best choice for an overnight stopover between Koblenz and Trier.m.. fine wine. a restored 11th-century castle at the top of the hill behind the town. The office also is open Saturday from May through August from 9 a. www. the easiest way is to take a train to Koblenz.m. arriving in Koblenz at 8 p.m. www. to noon.m. to 1 p.50) for adults and 2.m. and Sunday in July and August from 9 a. (See “The Mosel Valley” map in this chapter.m.m. celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. Touring the valley by boat or car If you’re headquartering in Cologne and want to enjoy a boat cruise down the Mosel River.m. From there.50€ ($3) for children and students. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and halftimbered houses make the Mosel Valley a prime area for exploration.m. 51km (32 miles) southwest of Koblenz. Endertplatz 1 (% 0267/60040.m. The castle. to 6 p. The A49 Autobahn runs between Koblenz and Trier. Its beautiful scenery.m. to 5 p. and arrive in Cochem at 3 p.382 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hunsruck hills in the German state of Rheinland-Palatinate. the Mosel Valley follows the course of the Mosel River (spelled Moselle in English) for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). and Friday 9 a. . Monday through Thursday 9 a. a medieval riverside town surrounded by vineyards.m.

Endertstrasse 1 (% 02671/8955). . drive to Enterttal.m. and dine at Weissmühle im Enterttal. and 6 to 9 p. Main courses range from 15€ to 25€ ($19–$31).6km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem. A few of the rooms have four-poster beds. Rack rates range from 77€ to 115€ ($96–$144) for a double. buffet breakfast included.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 383 The Mosel Valley A61 Nürburg E RM Cologne 410 E31 AN Y Mendig Mayen Koblenz A48 E44 Berlin A1 G Area of Detail Gerolstein 410 Kelburg Daun A48 E44 Lahnstein Kaiseresch Burg Eltz Alken 49 Boppard Ulmen 257 Mosel Moselkern 327 A61 Cochem A1 49 Meisburg Beilstein Senheim Bullay E31 Alf Marienburg A60 53 Wittlich Bitburg 51 Zell Traben-Trarbach Simmern M osel Bernkastel-Kues 269 421 Gemünden XEM– EM URG RG E44 327 Morbach 269 0 10 mi Kirn 0 10 km 41 N Trier A1 Idar-Oberstein 270 41 420 Both a hotel and a wine restaurant. baked. All major credit cards are accepted. added a modern wing and became a hotel in 1960. originally built in 1332. Diners Club. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. MasterCard. fax: 02671/4202). 56812 Cochem (% 02671/7059.m. all contain shower-tub combinations. and kept warm at your table with a hot stone. A creaking wooden staircase (you can also take the elevator) leads to most of the 35 rooms. 1. The restaurant is open daily from noon to 2 p. Try the trademark dish of fresh trout stuffed with herbs. The half-timbered structure. Alte Thorschenke. For a fine meal. and Visa are accepted. Brückenstrasse 3.

with its almond. Vineyards have produced wine here since Roman times. the Rheingau’s unofficial capital. If you take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz (see the “Cruises along the Rhine” sidebar in this chapter). If you’re driving. The Rheingau wine district (see “The Rhineland” map p. get plenty of sunshine and comparatively little rain. and wine fans consider Rheingau Rieslings to be among the best white wines made anywhere. fig. as reflected in its economy. The Rheingau wine grapes produce a delicately fruity wine with a full aroma. 367) follows a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine west of Wiesbaden to the attractive Rhine-side town of Bingen. the B42 highway runs beside the river between Boppard and Eltville. and festivals. conditions the Romans recognized as perfect for grape-growing. on the river’s northern bank. is like a northern extension of Italy. and other fruit trees and its sheltered sunny slopes covered with vineyards. you sail through this scenic winegrowing region. This part of the Rhineland not only turns out fine wines but has been fundamentally formed by the culture of wine. The wind-sheltered southern slopes of the Taunus range. traditions. Eighty percent of this wine comes from the Riesling grape.384 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Sampling the wines of Rheingau The Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. cherry. .

a fact that helps account for all those designer skyscrapers (more than in any other German city. cabaret. a small portion of Frankfurt’s Altstadt (Old Town) was lovingly rebuilt. cosmopolitan city.Chapter 20 Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Frankfurt ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Strolling through the Altstadt ᮣ Discovering Apfelwein. a rich cultural life. home of the Bundesbank. and the Central Bank of the EU. and sometimes called “Mainhattan” because of its skyscraper-studded skyline. At last count. and including the tallest building in Europe). many travelers get their first introduction to Germany in this city.000 American soldiers were stationed in Frankfurt until 1990. Today. Leveled during Allied bombing raids in World War II (WWII). the most important meeting place in the world for the acquisition and sale of book rights and translations. (See the “Frankfurt am Main” map in this chapter. Besides being a muchvisited business center. The best known is the International Book Fair. Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city. Frankfurt is the financial center not only of Germany but also of the entire European Union (EU).) Frankfurt has been a major banking city since the Rothschilds opened their first bank here more than 200 years ago. Germany’s central bank. Because the Frankfurt airport serves as the country’s main international hub. The huge symbol that stands on Willy-Brandt-Platz in front of the new opera house can be regarded as the city’s logo. the city is a tourist destination with fine museums and art collections. Frankfurt definitely focuses on business. A very strong American presence exists in this city on the Main. But Frankfurt is first and foremost a modern. Nearly 40. and a lively nightlife. . and more L ocated on the River Main. great shopping. Millions of visitors descend on the city during its trade shows in spring and autumn. nearly 450 banks maintained headquarters here.

Beethove nstr. ers Str. r. Lei Fa pzi üc lk B re m g er e anlag Schumannstr. fenstr Gärtnerweg ESCHENHEIMER TOR Rothschild’s Rothschild Park Alte Oper An l . U Kais er chen Mun tr. 4 r. Senck Linde B o c k e nh e i m er lsso nde Me dts tr.386 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankfurt am Main Hamburg MIQ. ke st r a l l ee ss e ra Grüneburgweg Siesn Feld bur gstr. str nu Tau tr. R r. berge st angg Wo l f Gr ün ebu rg w eg urgstr. nstr. Zeil TAUNUSANLANGE U J 7 u n g hof An der Hauptwache Ne ue MESSE W Güterplatz Goetheplatz 8 9 9 Str. we ize rP l. Wolfg angst tra sse U Ba us GRÜNEBURGWEG 1 WESTEND Bock enh ei m er L and 3 str a ss e r. University enberg nstr. Ar n HAUPTBAHNHOF in Ma ze a rL nd . U 5 6 2 Guiollett str. Freidb nFurste rstr. BH ocke nhe imer str. ner erli bach B r au 10 12 11 es ten ds tra sse er Un te r ma inb r. s se All ee U Mique l e alle er S tra GRÜNEBURG PARK Holzh rass e ausen str. HAUPTWACHE hst oc U Börse Gr. Ma inz Str. Fri ed se ras Sc 14 e U en sb rü ck SCHWEIZERPLATZ . ayer st Stau ./ADICKESALLEE Berlin M i q u e l a ll e e U A di e c k e s A l le ene Eyss Ha nsa GERMANY ckst Frankfurt am Main Munich C ro n ste tten str. ss Willy-BrandtPlatz U THEATERPLATZ i s tr. ka i ai n MUSEUMSUFER Sch s Leu ch ne r te 17 16 Un rm M ha GUTLEUTVIERTEL t t s leu ai nk ai um 15 n ai B 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters 13 U N Ke i Information S-Bahn U-Bahn Station Güterbahnhof Oppenheim nn ed ya lle e Gu t er Fran z St HOLZHAUSENSTRASSE r.

-Miller Str. Zoo rte n Rö db urg w./ ALTE GASSE U ie ile db r erg 25 stra er sse KONSTABLERWACHE 24 RathenauU Zeil platz Am T ie Lan r ga A LT S TA D T RÖMER 21 U B a tto n n stra sse se s t ra s 19 20 22 Ma i n K a i EisernerSteg ckWe r k t ma 26 Schöne Au ssicht 23 Oberm 18 Sach s e n h ä u s e r U fer olb rK lte tr. a W S Gr. as Ro ths rL d an str as se ACCOMMODATIONS M Der Messe 2 An Hilton Frankfurt 5 Hotel am Dom 26 Hotel Robert Mayer 1 Hotelschiff Peter Schlott 13 str er rg Bu Mozart 4 Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof 9 se rtm an -Ib ac hs tr.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 387 Nib U ADICKES/ NIBELUNGENALLE elun E c k enh ei m gen Alle e Ha NORDEND U Neuh ofstr. ch ild Al GLAUBERGSTRASSE lee rg L a n d strasse al ee Se b ck ac he BORNHEIM MITTE U rs be l Saa HÖHENSTRASSE U Bornheimer Gü BORNHEIM lbu he nt d b e rger Bu s rg tr. Palastbar. Obermainkai nem str. ann OSTHAFEN ATTRACTIONS Deutsch herr nufe Main r fs tra G erb ermühl str. Rit te r gasse SACHSENHAUSEN Da rm s t ä d ter Landstrass e W en ai i Oste ndst rasse ra sse n So Oskar-v. p k ar str as se Anla Floberb rücke ge erm Ob n a n lage ds t ainbr. str Bethmann’s Bethmann Park Se Fr OSTEND all ee rg hm er idts t r. Heinrich-HoffmanMuseum 3 Historisches Museum 10 Kaiserdom 20 Liebieghaus 14 Main Tower 7 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 18 Museum für Moderne Kunst 21 Römer and Römerberg 22 Städelsches Kunstinstitut/ Städtische Galerie 15 Struwwelpeter-Museum 19 Os t L a n d s t r a ss e U Hö he MARIANPLATZ W ald sc n Ha rg A lle e bs bu rg er Landwehr Al W Ha bs bu r he ac e sb Alle e t it lee Bu rg . Fri e MUSTERSCHULE U E sc he n m hei er VILBELER S. ss e DINING eg Exedra 25 Haus Wertheym 12 Konditoriei Hollhorst 11 Main Tower Restaurant & Bar 7 Restaurant Français 9 Tiger Restaurant. and Tiger-Bistrot 24 Weinhaus Brückenkeller 23 Deutsches Architektur Museum 16 Deutsches Filmmuseum 17 Eschenheimer Tor 6 Eschenheimer Turm 6 Goethe-Haus S tralenberge 8 r str. Parad iesga Se eh o sse de ls w .

They are marked: Einzelfahrt Frankfurt (single ticket to Frankfurt) and Tageskarte Frankfurt inkl. including the trip from the airport). Taking the train into the city The simplest method for getting into the city from the airport is by train. Flughafen (a reduced-price one-day transportation ticket within Frankfurt. S8 and S9 trains (direction Offenbach or Hanau) to Frankfurt’s city center depart about every ten minutes from the regional train station.25). Terminal 2 handles international flights. New York. a bus terminal. Tickets are available from the RMV ticket machines (with English translations) at the regional station and at the Deutsche Bahn (DB) Travel Center. Dresdner Bank. Denver. (RMV are the initials of the public transportation authority. . D. You find bus stops in front of Terminal 1 on the arrivals level and in front of Terminal 2 on Level 2. Terminal 1. SEB Bank. and several carrental offices. check when you purchase your ticket. this airport serves more than 110 countries worldwide. and Washington. Pittsburgh. including Atlanta.C. and air corridors lead to Frankfurt. Regional and local trains operate from the Regional Station directly below Terminal 1. The long-distance AIRail Terminal links the airport to cities throughout Germany and neighboring countries. Miami. in which you find many banks (Commerz Bank. Montreal. A people-mover system (called Sky Line) links the two airport terminals. Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (% 069/6901.388 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting There All roads. Detroit.S. By plane The city’s airport. Dallas.) The RMV ticket machines have special fast-selection buttons for the S-Bahn journey to Frankfurt. with direct flights from many U. and Finanz Bank) with currency exchange windows. If you fly into Germany from outside of Europe. Level 0 (% 069/691-844). rail lines. frankfurt-airport. These two S-Bahn lines take you to Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) in about ten minutes. and Canadian cities. Hopping a bus into the city If you want to travel to the city center by bus. Toronto. Platform 1. open daily from 6 a. to 11:30 p. Privately operated currency exchanges (Travelex is one) and ATMs are also there. Boston. A one-way ticket costs 5€ ($6. you have many options from which to choose. lies 11km (7 miles) from the city center.m. The airport has two railway stations. Europe’s busiest airport and Germany’s major international gateway. Philadelphia. Terminal 1 handles most European flights.m. Newark. Some airlines offer special shuttle-bus services to Frankfurt from the airport. www. chances are you’ll land at the city’s airport. Portland (Oregon).

in the Altstadt. The A5 comes from the northeast (Hannover) and continues south to Heidelberg and Basel. This office offers a hotel-booking service for 2. You find most of the historic sights and several museums in the Altstadt on the north bank. By train Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof is the busiest train station in Europe. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. The exclusive Westend district. west of the Altstadt.m. to 4 p. .m.10).m. You find currency-exchange windows and bank ATMs in the station. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt The River Main divides Frankfurt.m. and nightlife. including schedules and fares. opposite the main entrance (% 069/2123-8800). Saturday and Sunday 9 a. and Bonn and continues east and south to Würzburg. to 6 p.m. to 6 p. The huge. opposite the main entrance of the train station (% 069/2123-8800. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. The A3 comes in from the Netherlands.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a..50€ ($3. and Munich.. By car The A3 and A5 autobahns intersect near Frankfurt’s airport.m. to 9 p.m. Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. which leads to Frankfurt.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 389 Catching a cab into the city A taxi ride from the airport to the city center costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 20 From the west. to 5:30 p. For travel information.frankfurt-tourismus.m.m. to 9 p. Switzerland. www. or Inner City. modern Frankfurt Messe (trade-fair convention center) is considered part of the Westend. It was the only part of Frankfurt that was not destroyed during the WWII Allied bombing of the city. Römerberg 27 (% 069/2123-8800). Finding Information After You Arrive You find tourist information in two locations: ߜ Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. is open Monday to Friday 8 a. the A60 connects with the A66. ߜ Tourist Information Römer. with connections to all major German and European cities. The Altstadt contains an even older section referred to as the Innenstadt.m. Taxis are available in front of the terminals.m. www. de). is a residential and embassy quarter. Concentrated in the city center around the Altstadt are hotels.. Nürnberg.bahn. Cologne. restaurants. is open Monday to Friday from 8 a.

a reduction on the tourist office’s sightseeing tour (see “Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour. Rathenauplatz. You have a choice of streets heading east to the Altstadt: Münchner Strasse leads directly into Theaterplatz. transport on the airport shuttle bus. and the Hauptwache. Baselerstrasse is on your right and heads south toward the River Main. you can take the U-Bahn (subway). available at the city’s tourist offices. or a€ ($3) for children. . Two special tickets help you save money on public transportation in Frankfurt: ߜ A 24-hour ticket (Tageskarte). links Frankfurt. allows unlimited travel anywhere with