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by Donald Olson

Germany For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http:// Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. . All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2007925980 ISBN: 978-0-470-08956-9 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the Author
Novelist, playwright, and travel writer Donald Olson is the author of the award-winning England For Dummies, London For Dummies, Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London, and Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria. Under the pen name Swan Adamson he has written the novels My Three Husbands — now translated into four languages — and Confessions of a Pregnant Princess (both published by Kensington, New York), as well as Memoirs Are Made of This (Hodder Headline, London). Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, National Geographic Books, and many other publications.

To Gary Larson, with thanks for his help in Germany and with life in general.

Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank RailEurope for its generous assistance.

Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Lindsay Conner, Production Editor; Amy Lyons, Development Editor Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Editorial Assistant: Melinda Quintero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard J. Pacifico Cover Photos: Front: Bavaria, Ramsau © Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Getty Images Back: © Frank Rothe/Getty Images Cartoons: Rich Tennant ( Composition Services Project Coordinator: Lynsey Osborn Layout and Graphics: Claudia Bell, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie D. Jumper, Melanee Prendergast Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: Aptara, David Faust, Cynthia Fields, Melanie Hoffman, Todd Lothery, Charles Spencer Indexer: Aptara

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a Glance
Introduction .......................................................1 Part I: Introducing Germany................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ....................................15 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..............................25 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ..............39

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ..............49
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................51 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ......................................................63 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ............................................71 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................82 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ......................90 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ......................99

Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........109
Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin ..................................................111 Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin........................................................139 Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North ................................................175 Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East....................................................................207

Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..........243
Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit ..........................245 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria................................................284 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights ....................................................311 Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers ................................................................337 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ................365 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros ..........385

Part V: The Part of Tens ..................................409
Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons......................411 Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ..............................415 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............420

Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................423 Index .............................................................433


...................................................................................................................................................................................................................Maps at a Glance The Regions in Brief ...................................................................209 Dresden ............................................................................................315 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) ......................................................................235 Munich Neighborhoods .....................................................................................................................................................................................................176 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn ................................................................................371 The Mosel Valley.....................................................................................321 Baden-Baden ..................................195 Lübeck .........................................................................................291 Augsburg ......................................................323 Freiburg ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................221 Leipzig ...........................................................................................................225 Leipzig S-Bahn ...............................................................................................................................................................271 The Residenz.....................287 Würzburg ................................................................124 Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining .......................................................................................................211 The Zwinger......................................................329 Heidelberg ................................................351 Nuremberg..............................................................................................................................................................................................339 Stuttgart ......................................................................................303 Garmisch-Partenkirchen .........................................295 Füssen ................................................369 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn ..................................................................355 The Rhineland .................................................................................................................................................................................................143 Charlottenburg Attractions ............................................................................307 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ............................................199 Saxony and Thuringia ..........251 Central Munich Accommodations and Dining ...........................................................................................................................................................................116 Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining ..........................181 Bremen...................................................275 The Romantic Road .............................................................................................268 Deutsches Museum ...............................367 Cologne .....................................................................................27 Berlin Neighborhoods ............................................254 Central Munich Attractions...................................................................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber ...........145 Berlin-Mitte Attractions ..........313 Lindau .................391 .................................349 Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn.................................................................227 Weimar ...........................................386 Frankfurt U-Bahn and S-Bahn .............................................147 Potsdam ...................................................................................................................248 Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn ....................................................................................................383 Frankfurt am Main ......................................................169 Hamburg ............................................................127 Tiergarten-Area Attractions ........................................


........................................4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany .................Table of Contents Introduction ....1 About This Book......................29 Scheduling Your Time........15 Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture ..........23 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go .........28 Wending through western Germany....9 Discovering the Best Big German Cities..........................4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ...............................................18 Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany ..................21 Movies ..............................................5 Icons Used in This Book..19 Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies.................26 Savoring southern Germany................................................... and Ballet.......................10 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes........................................... Opera..........25 Exploring eastern Germany .....30 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons ...............4 Part I: Introducing Germany ..........................................4 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .............................................................................................................................................5 Part V: The Part of Tens ............................................................................................................3 Foolish Assumptions .................3 How This Book Is Organized...............21 Books (fiction and nonfiction) ..........................................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ...31 Watching those unpredictable skies ..........2 Conventions Used in This Book ...........................................13 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany .........30 Traveling during high and low seasons ...............................................................................................25 Going Where You Want to Be...........................................................11 Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces..................6 Part I: Introducing Germany...............................................11 Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities ...........25 Discovering northern Germany ...........................15 The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History..................................31 .............................................12 Enjoying the Best in Classical Music............6 Where to Go from Here.....................................................................................................................

...............................39 Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week.................................51 Lodging expenses ...............54 Shopping and nightlife costs .....................................................xii Germany For Dummies............35 February...................63 Flying into other German airports....................................................................53 Sightseeing expenses .60 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet ....................33 Glowing in autumn......................................................................36 July............................................36 September.........38 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ................51 Transportation costs............................................35 June............. 3rd Edition Blossoming in spring .......................................32 Shining (and raining) in summer .................................57 Handling Money .........................58 Using ATMs and carrying cash.36 August ........63 Flying into Frankfurt .........................................65 Booking your flight online ...............................51 Planning Your Budget ....................................................................................47 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ......................33 Welcoming winter ..39 East Side..............................................45 Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers ...49 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ........41 Discovering Germany with Kids...........................59 Toting traveler’s checks..............................................................................35 May ........................................................................................................35 January........37 November .62 A Tip about Tipping .....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................66 ....................64 Getting the best airfare .................37 December..................................................................................................................................................34 Perusing a Calendar of Events.....................61 Taking Taxes into Account...................... West Side: Germany in Two Weeks .................59 Charging ahead with credit cards............................................63 Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where ....................................................................................62 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany .....................................................................54 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun .........................................................................................................................................................37 October ...............

.................81 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations .................................................................................69 Choosing a package tour ...............71 Weighing the Options: Train or Car? ........................92 ..........................80 Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? ................................... bitte (please).....................................86 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate....................................................74 Reserving your seat.................70 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany .84 Smaller independent hotels..................................67 Joining an Escorted Tour ........................................................................76 Touring by Car: Autobahns...................................................................84 Chain hotels..................................................................................................................................74 Getting off on the right track...........79 Handling a roadside emergency.Table of Contents xiii Arriving by Other Means........68 Tour operators in the United States............................ Tankstellen..........................................................75 Saving time and euros with rail passes...................82 Finding the Place That’s Right for You ................................................69 Locating airline and hotel packages......90 Locating family-friendly businesses ..................89 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ..........80 Sailing through Germany: River Cruises ........................................85 Guesthouses .......87 Reserving the best room...........72 Heading to the Hauptbahnhof.......................................76 Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe .....................................................................................91 Hiring a baby sitter in Germany..........................................................................................83 Luxury hotels ..................72 Following basic training ......................................................................................86 Surfing the Web for hotel deals......................85 Pensions..................67 Arriving by boat ................... and Benzin................................................67 Traveling by train .........78 Following the rules of the road .................................................................................................71 Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go...........................................80 Fill ’er up....................................75 German rail passes: For Deutschland only................92 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors .....................................90 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families ....77 Taking the roads less traveled ..............................84 Boutique hotels................77 Renting a car in Germany ...........................................

.....115 Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) .........114 Finding Information After You Arrive ..................119 Getting Around Berlin.............................................................................99 Applying for a U....................................................95 Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians ..109 Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin............100 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance ....................................123 Runner-up hotels ......104 Using a cellphone outside the U.....................120 Going public: U-Bahn..............99 Applying for other passports ..........................................................................................................................................................................xiv Germany For Dummies.......................................122 Staying in Style ...............................115 Orienting Yourself in Berlin ...................................................................106 Keeping Up with Airline Security ........................112 By train.........101 Staying Healthy When You Travel..........122 Driving a car ..........................................97 Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany............... ..............................112 By plane ................................................................................................123 The top hotels ..S.............................................................. bus.........................................................................98 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details...................105 Going Wireless.............103 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail.............................................................................................. 3rd Edition Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities ........................111 Getting There..............99 Getting a Passport....120 Taking a taxi......................................94 Locating resources ............. and Strassenbahn ............... S-Bahn.......................113 By car .................................................................................................................107 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .........................................................104 Accessing the Internet away from home ....S.......96 Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators.........................................................................................................113 Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof................................115 Introducing western Berlin.......................... passport.................................96 Celebrating gay pride in Germany .........130 ........94 Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair)......97 Researching German lesbigay life on the Web ...

.................................................................................................................180 Staying in Hamburg ............................................................139 Saving money with a museum pass..............179 Taking a bus tour .......................................................................................153 Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour..................................................................................................................162 Finding out what’s happening ............................184 Exploring Hamburg...............................163 Checking out the dance clubs and bars...175 Getting there..........................................................................................................175 Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World .......137 xv Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin ....133 The best cafes ...........................163 Getting tickets .........................................................................................................................................171 Fast Facts: Berlin ...................162 Discovering Nightlife in Berlin...................................158 If you have one day in Berlin.......................................................................................179 Getting around Hamburg ..............................................................................182 Dining in Hamburg .........................................178 Finding information .....169 Finding tourist information ...............................163 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music....141 Finding more cool things to see and do.......168 Getting there.............179 Orienting yourself ..................187 ................................140 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .......................159 Shopping for Local Treasures.............................................................158 Boat tours ...........................172 Chapter 13: Hamburg......159 If you have three days in Berlin .................................157 Bus tours.............................................170 Discovering the top attractions ......................132 The top restaurants....................................................................................................................139 Sightseeing in Berlin ...........158 Following an Itinerary.......................................................................................................170 Dining at Sanssouci.....................159 If you have two days in Berlin ........................... and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North.................159 Shopping in western Berlin ...........................Table of Contents Dining Out ..................................................................................................................................................157 Walking tours..........................165 Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci .......160 Shopping in eastern Berlin ........... Bremen.........

........207 Dresden: Florence on the Elbe .................201 Staying in Lübeck...............................................236 Exploring Weimar...............................................................................................................................................224 Finding information and taking a tour ...............................................194 Getting to Bremen..........................212 Staying in Dresden ...............................................210 Orienting yourself ......................229 Shopping in Leipzig ..........................................................203 Chapter 14: Dresden.............................................................................................................................................234 Staying in Weimar ...........................................217 Shopping in Dresden .........214 Exploring Dresden ..194 Finding information and taking a tour ......................................................228 Exploring Leipzig .............198 Getting there..................................................................194 Exploring Bremen ............................201 Getting around Lübeck..........................200 Finding information and taking a walking tour .................................................................................................................237 Exploring the Thuringian Forest ..................................233 Getting there...................232 Discovering nightlife in Leipzig..........................194 Dining in Bremen........................207 Getting there.223 Getting there......................................201 Dining in Lübeck ......................191 A Side Trip: Bremen ...........................................226 Getting around Leipzig .........................................200 Orienting yourself .... and Weimar: Jewels of the East....... Leipzig.222 Leipzig: City of Heroes..............................226 Staying in Leipzig ..........................240 ..................................................................................................234 Finding information and taking a tour ...................................196 Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own .....................................................................................................................202 Walking through Lübeck .................212 Dining in Dresden...............................................221 Discovering nightlife in Dresden.........................................................................................................................................210 Seeing Dresden by guided tour ...................226 Dining in Leipzig...234 Dining in Weimar........208 Finding information .........233 Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment.............. 3rd Edition Shopping in Hamburg................210 Getting around Dresden....................................................191 Living it up after dark in Hamburg........................................................................................xvi Germany For Dummies...................................................................

............................................................246 By plane ..........................................................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories .........................................................292 ..............................................................................................................259 The top restaurants...................................281 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music.......................................Table of Contents xvii Shopping in Weimar............247 Getting Around Munich ...........277 Seeing Munich by Guided Tour ........................................................................250 Catching a cab.290 Getting there.....................286 Dining in Würzburg...............................252 Runner-up hotels ...................266 Sightseeing in Munich ........................................278 Shopping for Local Treasures.......................................285 Getting there................................241 Discovering nightlife in Weimar ............................................................................................................................................245 Getting There...........................................................................247 Finding Information After You Arrive ...................................286 Finding information ...........................284 The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria .......288 Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg ..267 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .....................................252 Staying in Style ..........................................................................................246 By car ........252 The top hotels .................................................................................260 The best beer gardens ..241 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany...........246 By train.................................286 Exploring Würzburg....................................................................267 Finding more cool things to see and do...................................................................................286 Staying in Würzburg ..................................................................................291 Finding information ...................................280 Discovering Nightlife in Munich...247 Orienting Yourself in Munich......................285 Würzburg: Franconian Fortress...........243 Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit...................250 Using public transportation ..............................................281 Fast Facts: Munich ..........................................................282 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria .........281 Checking out bars and clubs ......................................................................................................................................................................................258 Dining Out ...

292 Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber .......................................311 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ......................................305 Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen ..296 Staying in Augsburg....299 Exploring Neuschwanstein .................................................................302 Staying in Füssen ..........................................................294 Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg........306 Ascending the Zugspitze....................306 Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen ......................................299 Exploring Hohenschwangau..................295 Finding information and taking a tour ...................................305 Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen....305 Finding information ............294 Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance.............308 Discovering the local nightlife ......................................................................................................................................305 Getting there..............................................................................xviii Germany For Dummies............318 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest)...............312 Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau ............296 Exploring Augsburg .........................................302 Finding information ..................................311 Lindau: Sunny island charmer ...........................322 Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books...........................297 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air ..............................................328 ...........................................................................299 Finding information and buying tickets ......................................................................................300 Dining near the castles..................................................................... 3rd Edition Staying in Rothenburg..292 Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber....320 Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town ...................................................................................................304 Exploring Füssen....305 Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen.........302 Dining in Füssen .........................................309 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights.............................................................304 Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze...........299 Getting there.............................296 Dining in Augsburg ......302 Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road ....................302 Getting there...308 A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles.......................................................................................................................294 Getting there...........................................293 Shopping in Rothenburg ...............................................

..........................350 Dining in Stuttgart.............................................................379 Discovering nightlife in Cologne .......................337 Getting there.............................338 Orienting yourself .............................................................................354 Getting there.................................................................................................348 Getting to Stuttgart.................366 Finding information ............................................370 Dining in Cologne.....................340 Getting around Heidelberg .............368 Staying in Cologne ...........................353 Shopping in Stuttgart ..............365 Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine ...........................................................358 Exploring Nuremberg .................................................................................342 Exploring Heidelberg......................................................347 A Side Trip to Stuttgart.....................................................................................................350 Finding information and taking a tour ........... Stuttgart.......................366 Getting there.......................338 Finding information ...................340 Staying in Heidelberg..363 Living it up after dark in Nuremberg ............354 Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth.................................................................................................................................................................................................344 Shopping in Heidelberg................................368 Getting around ..........................................................................................363 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ....379 ................. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers............337 Heidelberg: Romance on the River ..............................................Table of Contents xix Chapter 18: Heidelberg.....................................................360 Shopping in Nuremberg ........................................................................................350 Stuttgart performing arts......372 Exploring Cologne.......................................355 Finding information and taking a tour ..............................................340 Dining in Heidelberg .....356 Getting around Nuremberg.......356 Orienting yourself .........................................375 Shopping in Cologne......................338 Taking a guided tour.............350 Exploring Stuttgart .........347 Living it up after dark in Heidelberg.................................................................................357 Dining in Nuremberg ..............................................................368 Getting oriented .......................356 Staying in Nuremberg ...............................................................................................

.385 Getting There...................................................403 Shopping for Local Treasures.............388 By train.....................................................................................................................................................................................406 Checking out bars and clubs ....................392 Dining Out ..............................403 Porcelain ...............................414 ...................................412 Days of the Week .................................................412 Numbers...........................................413 Seasons and Elements .................................................................................................382 Stopping in Cochem ..................389 By car ..........................411 Accommodations ...........................................................413 Time ...........412 Entertainment and Attractions ........388 By plane ........389 Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt.................405 Raising the curtain on the performing arts .......389 Getting Around Frankfurt.........................................................403 Department stores....394 Sightseeing in Frankfurt ................411 Basic Words and Phrases................................................................390 Taking a taxi...............................................405 Discovering Nightlife in Frankfurt........................................................................................................................................................................412 Directions..................................................................407 Part V: The Part of Tens ...............................413 Transportation .................................................................. 3rd Edition The Mosel Valley: Great Wines...............................................382 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros..............................................................................................397 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z ...............390 Using public transportation .....................................412 Colors ..405 Having fun at a cabaret ................. Beautiful Scenery .....406 Fast Facts: Frankfurt ....................................................................................................397 Walking through the city........................................................................398 Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour ................389 Finding Information After You Arrive ...............xx Germany For Dummies................................................................................413 Warning Signs .........381 Touring the valley by boat or car ......392 Staying in Style ..........................................................................................................................................................................409 Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons.......................................................................................................................................................

...........................................418 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe......................................418 Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz....427 Major airlines serving Germany...........417 Kempinski Hotel Bristol...............................................................................415 Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa................421 Spätlese .........................423 Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites ..................417 Hotel Eisenhut......................................................................................416 Excelsior Hotel Ernst.............................................................................................422 Beerenauslese..... Dresden ......................................................................418 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München.....................................420 Deutscher Tafelwein .............415 Der Kleine Prinz............... Heidelberg ..................................429 Surfing the Net......428 Where to Get More Information .............. Berlin .....................................................................................................................................417 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ...................................................427 Major car-rental agencies operating in Germany..................................................Table of Contents xxi Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ............................................................422 Eiswein ....................................420 Qualitätswein.421 Kabinett ..........433 ..........................................................................................................420 Deutscher Landwein ..........421 Auslese ......421 Prädikatswein .................................... Nuremberg .....................................................420 Tafelwein .. Baden-Baden...................429 Contacting regional tourist boards ......................................................................................................423 Fast Facts ........419 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............................................................................................................... Rothenburg .......................422 Trockenbeerenauslese ....416 Hotel Adlon Kempinski...........430 Index .................................................................................... Berlin ................................422 Appendix: Quick Concierge ................................................. Cologne...............428 Major hotel chains in Germany............

3rd Edition .xxii Germany For Dummies.

where the peaks are tipped with snow until May. such as the Bavarian Alps or the Rhine Valley? Did you know that one of the most beautiful scenic drives in Europe is along Germany’s aptly named Romantic Road? What castles and cathedrals would you like to visit? The fairy-tale castles built by King Ludwig of Bavaria are the most famous and popular attractions in Germany. near Germany’s coastline. In the far north. Wunderbar! But what parts of Deutschland (Germany) do you want to visit? Because of this country’s many offerings. with Luxembourg. will dazzle your senses. and the forested hills of the scenic Schwarzwald (Black Forest). Germany isn’t a huge country — on a superfast train you can buzz from Berlin in the north to Munich in the south in about seven hours — but exciting cities and scenic sightseeing possibilities pack the terrain. every crag in the Rhine Valley seems to have its own romantic legend — or carefully tended vineyard. The sunny southwest is where you find the Bodensee. Dramatic regional differences exist in the German landscape. Belgium. where Goethe lived. The sheer size of Cologne Cathedral. the location of the country’s great ports. and the Netherlands to the west and the Czech Republic and Poland to the east. where Bach conducted? Do you want to stroll down Frankfurt’s . Germany stretches from the Alps in the south to Denmark and the Baltic and North seas in the north. So what cities. Discovering the special regional differences within Germany will help to deepen your understanding and experiences of the country. regions. which shares a border with France. And how about other historic sites? Do you want to visit Weimar. or specific attractions do you want to see? Berlin. In the southwest. Drive or take the train a couple of hours east and you’re in the Bavarian Alps. In the west. too. The sober brick architecture that predominates in the far north gives way to exuberant baroque churches and palaces in the south. French cuisine is a major part of the dining scene. In the north. or Leipzig. answering that question isn’t always easy. the city where most Germans would live if they could? The great port city of Hamburg? The romantic university town of Heidelberg? Are there specific landscapes you want to see. Situated in the very heart of Europe. fun-loving Munich. one of the largest lakes in Europe. Regional differences also extend to food and architecture.Introduction S o you’re going to Germany. you find a flat maritime landscape. the exciting capital of a reunified republic? Elegant. the emphasis is on fresh seafood. Every city or region has its own version of sausage and its favorite local wines and beers. France bounds Germany to the southwest. the largest church north of the Alps.

Use Germany For Dummies as a reference guide. Keep a close eye on your camera. But. In this guide. Mark these pages with the handy Post-it® Flags that are included in this book to help make your trip planning easier! . is one of the great art cities of Europe. you and Germany For Dummies can plan a wunderschöne Reise (wonderful journey). this guidebook is for you. I exclude places that other. Therefore. you’ll find information that you’ll want to reference as you plan or enjoy your trip — whether it be a new hotel. I help you choose from among its many highlights to create the best trip for you. has an embarrassment of riches. more exhaustive guidebooks routinely include. Dummies Post-it® Flags As you’re reading this book. 3rd Edition Zeil. purse. I suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. If you’re new to this part of the world. of course. In this book. if you’ve already been to Germany and know the basics of international travel. Your safety is important to us. or the boring. you can flip to the specific part you need or hone in on one specific chapter. You can. I chose only what I consider to be the best and most essential places for visitors. as you can see. so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. after all. or a musttry walking tour. Together. I bypass places that are difficult to reach or of interest only to a scholar or specialist. the busiest shopping street in Germany? Are you interested in seeing eastern Germany now that the border is open between east and west? The eastern city of Dresden. however. Germany. Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time — and this is especially true of prices. editors. and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. and wallet. a must-see attraction.2 Germany For Dummies. About This Book This is a selective guidebook to Germany. The author. From an enormous list of possibilities. the overrated. Germany has so much that is really worth seeing that you don’t need to waste your time with the second-rate. start at the first page and read all the way through to the end.

The use of symbols and abbreviations is kept to a minimum. followed by an English translation. Foolish Assumptions I make some assumptions about you. The exchange rate used throughout is 1€ = $1. lieber Leser (dear reader). I first give the name of a sight in German.Introduction 3 Conventions Used in This Book I recently tried to extract some information from a guidebook and felt that I needed training in hieroglyphics to interpret all the different symbols. I include abbreviations for commonly accepted credit cards. and then converted into dollars. I employ a system of dollar signs ($) to show a range of costs for one night in a hotel (double room. If the word is one that you may be using. . attractions. Check out the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ Hotel $125 and less $126 to $175 $176 to $225 $226 and more Restaurant $20 and less $21 to $30 $31 to $40 $41 and more Prices in this guide for hotels. and services are given in euros (€). Take a look at the following list for an explanation of each: AE: American Express DC: Diners Club DISC: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa I also include some general pricing information to help you decide where to unpack your bags or dine on the local cuisine. the currency that replaced the Deutsche Mark in 2002. entree. In addition to giving you exact prices. I’m happy to report that the user-friendly Germany For Dummies is not like that.25. I also provide a phonetic pronunciation. including: ߜ You may be an experienced traveler who hasn’t had much time to explore Germany and wants expert advice when you finally do get a chance to enjoy that particular locale. year-round) or a meal at a restaurant (appetizer. and dessert). restaurants.

tell you about German food. restaurant. they provide information. is contained in this part. ߜ You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available about Germany or that lists every hotel. and present you with some possible itineraries. I help you to understand and deepen your knowledge of the culture. and suggestions that can help you map out a wonderful holiday. from passports to buying medical insurance. Part I: Introducing Germany This first part introduces Germany and gives you some excellent reasons for going there. or attraction. provide a calendar of events. or the Romantic Road — you can turn right to that part. travelers with disabilities. I provide special tips for Germany-bound travelers who may have special needs or interests: families. and beer. then Germany For Dummies gives you the information you’re looking for! How This Book Is Organized The book is broken down into five parts. I point out the best hotels and restaurants and the top attractions to the . and Jewish travelers. All of the parts can be read independently. The next two parts of the book are devoted to the major sights and cities within northern and eastern Germany and western and southern Germany. This part helps you to decide what form of transportation (train. Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany This part helps take some of the wrinkles out of the trip-planning stage. you’re looking for a book that focuses on the places that will give you the best or most unique experience in Germany. Instead. If you fit any of these criteria. Along with providing a basic orientation. This overview gives you the big picture. lay out your options for airlines and how to get the best airfares and book money-saving package tours. gay and lesbian travelers. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany All you need to know about Berlin. I talk about handling money and give you some sound advice on planning a realistic budget. wine. say. and explain the kinds of guided tours that are available. seniors. rental car) to use to get around the country and explains what kind of accommodations you can expect for your money. advice. Germany’s capital and most exciting city. 3rd Edition ߜ You may be an inexperienced traveler (but you’re definitely not a Dummkopf) who is looking for guidance when determining whether to take a trip to Germany and how to plan for it.4 Germany For Dummies. I also deal with pretrip loose ends. The individual chapters help you decide when to visit and what to see. so if you want to zero in on a specific city or area — Munich. The first two parts deal with trip planning and organization.

with an additional side trip to Linderhof. ten great hotels. I hit the Hamburg highlights. and ten things to know about German wine. a scenic driving tour that begins in Würzburg and ends at Neuschwanstein. with the oldest university in Germany and the brooding ruins of a mighty castle. I provide information on how to get there. from the mighty harbor to the lurid Reeperbahn (where uncoverage may better describe the sights). plus a selection of great hotels and special restaurants. how to get around.” as Frankfurt is known.” I tell you how to take a boat trip from Dresden into a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland. Northern Germany. a bustling city that offers an array of historic sights. Difficult to visit during the Communist years. I cover three important cities in southwestern Germany: Heidelberg. with its world-famous cathedral and array of first-class museums. Germany’s “secret capital” and most popular big city. and Nuremberg. You find plenty to see and enjoy in “Mainhattan. . Germany’s largest port city. and down the equally picturesque Mosel River. a picturesque city of Gothic church spires and ancient brick buildings. including the palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam. The next chapter goes beyond Munich but stays in Bavaria. the region’s cultural capital. From the southwest I head farther north. My “tens” include ten lessons on the German language. and Weimar. I also include a description of the memorial at Buchenwald concentration camp near Weimar and an overview of touring options in the Thuringian Forest. one of Germany’s most attractive cities. gets a big chapter of its own. to the lively Rhine-side city of Cologne. I also visit the great eastern German cities of Dresden. bordering on the North Sea and the Baltic. Sidetrip options from Cologne include boat rides down the mighty Rhine. and sights I want you to know about. with its castles and vineyards. is also where you find Hamburg. I also introduce you to the Bavarian towns of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau.Introduction 5 east and west and all around this remarkable city. Here I describe the principal cities and attractions found along the Romantic Road. Part V: The Part of Tens The Part of Tens enables me to focus a little more attention on extraspecial places. another castle-fantasy of King Ludwig. from designer skyscrapers and great museums to distinctive applewine taverns. gets a chapter of its own. one of Germany’s principal winegrowing areas. Staying south but moving west. topics. Leipzig. and Bremen. In this part. Frankfurt. Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Munich. King Ludwig of Bavaria’s fairytale castle in the Bavarian Alps. these remarkable showcases of art and culture are now “open for business. and what to see. Then I tell you about side-trip options from Hamburg: Lübeck. I also include an easy trip to Nymphenburg Palace and the moving memorial at Dachau. with the busiest international airport in Germany. Stuttgart.

I’m not cheap. In this appendix. personalities. and hotel chains serving Germany. little pictures that point out helpful trip-planning details or items that are just for fun. and places of special interest. I want you to be aware of something such as a scam that can cost you money. Traveling with children? Keep your eyes peeled for this icon. which is sure to be wunderbar. as well as resources for locating additional information on specific cities or areas. If you do see one. All this is followed by a few helpful worksheets to help make your trip planning easier. and nightlife. You can start at the beginning and read the book straight through to the end. This icon points out tidbits about German culture. but I love to save money. I hope you’ll think of me as your guide or companion on this journey to Germany. Bargain Alert is my favorite icon. restaurants. or a hazardous situation. so you won’t find too many of these icons. The Tip icon highlights useful bits of information that can save you time or enhance your travel experience. too. The Best of the Best icon highlights the best the destination has to offer in all categories — hotels. attractions. 3rd Edition Easily found on the yellow pages at the back of this book is a Quick Concierge Appendix with an A-to-Z list of fast facts. car-rental agencies. Where to Go from Here To Germany. I’m not an alarmist. of course! How you want to use this guide is up to you. Icons Used in This Book In the margins. like how the telephone system works and what numbers to call in an emergency.6 Germany For Dummies. A Tip icon alerts you to something that you may not otherwise consider or even know about. activities. or attractions that welcome children or that kids actually enjoy. and I suspect it may be yours. Or you can start anywhere in between and extract information as you want or need it. restaurants. shopping. you find six different icons. . You see this icon every time I tell you about something that can save you cash. you also find a list of toll-free telephone numbers and Web sites for airlines. which points out hotels.

Part I Introducing Germany .

. the most scenic landscapes.W In this part . I tell you more about the places included in the book and discuss scheduling your trip so you can decide where and when to go. . Chapter 1 introduces you to the best Germany has to offer — the most exciting cities. an introduction to its architecture and cuisine. I present four possible itineraries for visitors who want to sample a wide range of sights. . and the most interesting attractions. here to begin? This part lays the groundwork for your trip to Germany. In Chapter 4. Chapter 2 helps you to understand the country and its culture by giving an overview of its history. In Chapter 3. and a list of recommended books and movies.

cake. the main squares in Germany’s smaller cities glitter and glow with the lights. and moods appeals to visitors for many different reasons. others come to enjoy a cosmopolitan cafe culture where coffee. too. will find that the club/bar/disco scene in Germany is hot. Munich. In the categories that I outline. and gift stalls of Christmas markets. you’ll find some of the things that make traveling in Germany such a fascinating experience. Some visitors come for the chance to drink fullbodied German beer. a symphony orchestra.Chapter 1 Discovering the Best of Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Experiencing the greatest cities ᮣ Exploring romantic landscapes ᮣ Discovering legendary castles and palaces ᮣ Visiting smaller towns and cities ᮣ Enjoying world-class classical music. opera. Or perhaps you have an image of Germany in your mind — a castle on a hilltop. You’ll find as many different reasons to visit Germany as there are tourists who arrive daily. and ballet G ermany holds a special fascination for travelers. by the thousands. a palace in a landscaped garden. not only in large cities like Berlin and Munich but also in smaller university towns like Cologne. landscapes. and Cologne. And don’t forget the retail: Great shopping opportunities abound year-round in Berlin. Then there’s the culture: Every midsize-to-large German city has at least one art museum. Perhaps you. Leipzig. This land of contrasting cities. have German ancestors. Clubbers. food. at the airports in Frankfurt. and Heidelberg. During the Christmas season. making a visit to Germany a feast for those who enjoy world-class art and music. and an opera house. or a giant beer hall with an oom-pah-pah band — and you want to check it out for yourself. Munich. and you want to explore their home turf. and conversation are afternoon staples. like millions of others. a tradition that dates back hundreds of years. or Berlin. This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the “Best of the Best” — that Germany has to offer. I discuss each of these places . Hamburg.

The old capital of Saxony is where you find the worldfamous Zwinger palace/museum complex. as simple or as sophisticated as you want. and when you’re walking down Berlin’s two most famous avenues. sophisticated. marked with — what else? — a “Best of the Best” icon. and its vibrant contemporaryarts scene gives it a hefty dose of sophistication. and Rhine-side setting. The capital of Bavaria is sensuous. You’ll find world-class museums. ߜ With its endlessly dramatic history and cache of cultural and artistic riches. with its soaring cathedral. and plenty of picturesque corners just waiting to be discovered. when the wall separating East Germany and West Germany came down. bustling pedestrian-only quarters. cuisine of all kinds. But since 1989. too. Discovering the Best Big German Cities Germany’s top cities offer a wealth of diversions. ߜ Hamburg (Chapter 13). enormous parks and green spaces. fascinating architecture. Berlin (Chapters 11 and 12) always has a major-league buzz. ߜ Dresden (Chapter 14) reigns as the treasure house of eastern Germany. Germany’s third-largest city after Berlin and Munich. Germany’s largest city and new capital has become an international superstar. is one of the most attractive and intriguing cities in western Germany.10 Part I: Introducing Germany and experiences in detail later in this book. with countless cultural diversions and a kind of urban magic that snares the hearts of millions of visitors each year. including a fine lineup of museums and great shopping on Germany’s busiest shopping street. has the liveliness and lustiness of a big port and the sophistication of a wealthy European metropolis. And thanks to Germany’s excellent public-transportation systems. ߜ Cologne (Chapter 19). you’ll feel it. you can find them in their indicated chapters. and fun-loving. riverside promenades. the riches of the Green Vault. first-rate museums. the Zeil. with its bevy of designer skyscrapers. the Kurfürstendamm and Unter den Linden. The “Queen of the North” presides over a beautiful setting on the Alster Lake but is notorious for her erotically charged entertainment district called the Reeperbahn. or bus. great shopping. ߜ Munich (Chapter 15) is a southern German city where the urban pleasures are as soft and sweet as Schlagsahne (whipped cream) on a rich slab of cake or as exuberant as an oom-pah-pah band in a giant beer hall during Oktoberfest. You’ll also find elegant boulevards. Germany’s most amazing architectural reconstruction effort. . ߜ Frankfurt (Chapter 20). streetcar. you can easily reach it all by subway. yields plenty of pleasant surprises. music. The pulse of Berlin is felt throughout Europe. and plenty of nightlife. and the reconstructed Frauenkirche. Cologne’s carnival is the biggest and brashest in the country.

many of them full of art treasures. princes. ߜ The Rheingau wine district (Chapter 19). dukes. with semitropical gardens and an almost Italian languor. ruled over by an assortment of kings. Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces At one time. both great and small. boat. from Koblenz south to Alsace. and car. offering a remarkable medley of small medieval towns set within a gorgeous Bavarian landscape of river valley and mountain meadow. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. ߜ With its fruit trees and vineyards growing on sunny. the Zugspitze.000 years. and vast estates. Roman ruins. and scenic lookouts. and all of them open to the public. between Trier and Koblenz. has been a wine-producing region for upwards of 2. the Rhine Valley (Chapter 19). and views of them are accessible by train. such as Lorelei rock. . ߜ The Romantic Road (Chapter 16) is the most romantic byway of all. west of Mainz and Wiesbaden. an enormous lake near Germany’s sunny southwestern border. rocky cliffs along the Elbe in the east. The country’s highest mountain. Germany was a conglomeration of regional kingdoms. is like a northern extension of Italy. medieval castles. ߜ Cruises down the mighty River Rhine (Chapter 19) take you past castle-crowned crags and legendary sights. duchies. ߜ The Mosel Valley (Chapter 19). ߜ Perhaps the most dramatic of all German landscapes is the Bavarian Alps. where rocky cliffs rise dramatically above the Elbe River. is a scenic winegrowing region encompassing thousands of acres of vineyards. hiking trails. From the majesty of the Bavarian Alps in the south to the sandy beaches of the Baltic Sea in the north. found along a lovely 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine. ߜ The Bodensee (Chapter 17). As a result. and prince-bishops. and from the winegrowing Rhine Valley in the west to the high. ߜ Sophisticated health spas and recreational activities abound in the forest-clad mountains of the Black Forest (Chapter 17). sheltered slopes. towers above the alpine resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Chapter 16).Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 11 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes Landscapes of fabled beauty and scenic splendor are found throughout Germany. where you find lakes. Germany offers a wealth of sightseeing possibilities. Germany is loaded with a fascinating collection of castles and palaces. is like a bit of the Mediterranean. ߜ From Dresden you can easily explore a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland (Chapter 14).

many of them located less than an hour’s train ride from a major metropolis. scattered like gemstones around the country. ߜ A palace that doubled as a fortress. With their precious paintings. but it remains an impressive sight even in its semiruined state. Ruined castles dot the landscape of the Rhine (Chapter 19) and enhance its romantic appeal. ߜ Carefully reconstructed after WWII. Brimming with the flavors of the past. nothing can compare to the fairy-tale castles built in the 19th century by Ludwig II of Bavaria.12 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to several museums and staterooms that can be visited on guided tours. and furniture. In these historic hamlets. indeed. ߜ Nymphenburg Palace on the outskirts of Munich is another kingsize showplace and so is the gigantic Residenz. ߜ Used by the powerful prince-bishops until 1806. find castles scattered throughout the country. porcelains. ߜ Perched on its crag high above Heidelberg. the amazing Zwinger Palace in Dresden (Chapter 14) is now an unparalleled showcase for old master paintings and porcelain treasures. So many architectural gems are located here that the entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a place judged . in part. because it suffered almost no damage during World War II (WWII). featuring brilliant Renaissance-era woodcarvings by Tilman Riemenschneider. ߜ An easy daytrip from Hamburg. you can easily savor them as daytrips. ߜ For many visitors. You do. is remarkable. Heidelberg Castle (Chapter 18) suffered from war and fire. the Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) is famed for its superb ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo. Frederick the Great’s 18th-century rococo palace in Potsdam. ߜ For sheer. lovely Lübeck (Chapter 13) epitomizes the maritime culture and redbrick architecture of northern Germany. these stately homes reveal aspects of German life and the monarchy that lasted up until 1918. over-the-top opulence. the Marienburg crowns the vineyard-covered slopes above Würzburg and today houses the Mainfränkische Museum (Chapter 16). You can easily visit Sanssouci and its beautiful grounds on a daytrip from Berlin. ߜ Sanssouci (Chapter 12). you’ll find a very different Germany. Neuschwanstein and Linderhof (see Chapter 16 for both) are preserved almost exactly as they were during Ludwig’s lifetime. the quintessential image associated with Germany is a castle on a hilltop. right in the heart of the city (see Chapter 15 for both). Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities Germany is remarkable for its attractive smaller towns and cities.

including grand opera. flower-filled charm that’s perfect for lazing away a day or two. ߜ One of the most sophisticated spa towns in Europe. according to the United Nations agency that promotes education and the arts. You can walk along the old city walls of this perfectly preserved gem and stroll down streets that haven’t changed much in hundreds of years. ߜ Stuttgart (Chapter 18). unspoiled hamlet was home to Goethe and Schiller. are reasonably priced. and enormous castle. among others. Füssen (Chapter 16) invites you to stroll along its cobblestone streets past stone houses and a rushing mountain river. a 40-minute train ride from Heidelberg. Opera. Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) offers an extraordinary range of spa treatments during the day and elegant gaming rooms at night. one of the most attractive midsize German cities. has a sunny.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 13 to be of exceptional cultural value. enchants visitors with its romantic setting. and the quality of musical performance is extraordinarily high. opera. and ballet will find that Germany is a gold mine. ߜ Heidelberg (Chapter 18). This small. Enjoying the Best in Classical Music. intriguing architecture. and the second-largest beer festival after Munich. with major art collections. a marvelous little island-city in the Bodensee (Lake Constance). a major highlight along the Romantic Road. Augsburg (Chapter 16) is full of historic panache and architectural surprises. and Ballet Lovers of classical music. historic streets. in eastern Germany. Tickets for musical events. ߜ Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Chapter 16). is a walled medieval city loaded with picturesque charm. an old university town on the Neckar River. Naziera rallies. is the arts and culture capital of southwestern Germany. ߜ Lindau (Chapter 17). ߜ Weimar (Chapter 14). ߜ Located in the Bavarian Alps near Neuschwanstein Castle. ߜ Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is an important center of the German Renaissance that later became an infamous locale for huge. The garden-island of Mainau is a short ferry ride away. and provides a glimpse into 18th-century German life and culture. was a cradle of the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Remnants and reminders from both eras are plentiful in Nuremberg. . including Renaissance-era palaces and the oldest almshouse in Germany. ߜ A stop on the Romantic Road or an easy daytrip from Munich.

the Hamburg Ballet. but the company still performs at the State Theater. and three highly-regarded orchestras. ߜ In Munich (Chapter 15). Major artists appear at the Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). one of the great cultural centers of Germany. who lived and worked in the city for more than 40 years — with the yearly Bachfest. Hamburg (Chapter 13) plays host to the Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). Cologne (Chapter 19) has an amazing array of musical offerings. ߜ For a city of its size. ߜ Opera Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt gives a big musical boost to Frankfurt (Chapter 20). one of the world’s great opera houses. Cranko is gone. ߜ Up north. and two fine orchestras — the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker (Cologne Philharmonic) and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra) — perform in the Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. the Rhineland’s leading opera house. including the famed Berlin Philharmonic.14 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to three major symphony orchestras. as does the Frankfurt Philharmonic. . the brilliant Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) shares the National Theater stage with its ballet company. ߜ The Stuttgart Ballet in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) hit international stardom in the 1970s when John Cranko took over the company. ߜ A visit to Dresden (Chapter 14) can be made even more memorable by an evening at the Semperoper (Semper Opera House). and three opera houses that share their stages with resident ballet companies. conducted by Sir Simon Rattle. ߜ The city of Leipzig (Chapter 14) is home to the world-renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra and the acclaimed Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera). and so does the Staatsoper (State Opera). or hearing a concert by the Dresden Philharmonic. while the magnificent Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra) performs in the Philharmonic Hall. Leipzig celebrates its most famous citizen — the composer Johann Sebastian Bach.

. 768–814) was responsible for the earliest large-scale attempt to unite the lands of Germany under one ruler. The following list highlights the main trends in German history: ߜ Early history: Prehistoric humans hunted in the Rhine and Neckar valleys of present-day Germany.Chapter 2 Digging Deeper into Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Perusing the main events in Germany’s history ᮣ Recognizing Germany’s architectural heritage ᮣ Discovering German food. The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History Germany’s long and tumultuous history remains clouded by the horrors of World War II (WWII). . Charlemagne (Karl der Grosse. and wine ᮣ Finding books and movies about Germany T his chapter helps you find out more about Germany and deepens your experience of the country.D. 400. the Roman sphere of influence extended well into the borders of present-day Germany.D. with garrisons established at Cologne (Chapter 19). beer. and Trier. I distill the essence of Germany’s complicated and tumultuous past so you can get a clear. Koblenz. quick sense of the major epochs. Mainz. the empire of the Franks represented the transition from a loose conglomeration of German tribes into what eventually would become the German Empire. I highlight the main architectural trends. How a civilized European nation slipped into the state of barbaric inhumanity that existed during Nazism’s rise and WWII is a question that continues to occupy historians and survivors and haunt the Germans themselves. and recommend some excellent books and movies about Germany. By the first century A. Following the Roman withdrawal from Germany in A. whet your appetite with a primer on German food and drink.

ߜ The Reformation. Bismarck succeeded in winning over southern German states and. In 1813. Napoleon occupied several German cities and abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. and Napoleon: The 16th century was a time of social unrest and religious upheaval throughout Germany. various German tribal duchies sought to build their own autonomy. ߜ Revolution and the Reich: Following Napoleon’s defeat. Germany remained a collection of small principalities and free cities. Residual issues from war and hostility from conservative groups conflicted with reformist and radical impulses of the left and cultural avant-garde. Under Frederick the Great (Friedrich der Grosse. and philosophers ushered in the Age of Enlightenment. Austrian. As Protestant Reformation spread. Prussia gained status as a great European power. Prussian statesman Otto von Bismarck (1815–1898) advocated consolidation of the German people under Prussian leadership. Martin Luther (1483–1546) battled against the excesses of the Catholic Church. the Enlightenment. it resulted in severe food shortages throughout the country and intensified political unrest. After defeating the Austrian and Prussian armies. the Great War (1914–1918) represented a German attempt to dominate Europe. . the so-called Weimar government (1919–1934) represented a break in dominant traditions of German history. the Austrian Hapsburg monarchy reimposed its sovereignty over Prussia and other parts of Germany. while fighting on the western front ultimately led to German defeat and the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II. The question of independence and national unity finally came to a head in the 1848 revolution. the country’s military and political rulers were determined to return to a system of absolute monarchy. When that effort failed. In its attempt to establish a democratic and republican government. became first chancellor of the German Empire (Reich).” Berlin — capital of the republic — blossomed into Germany’s economic and cultural center. ߜ World War I and Weimar: For many observers. composers. and his work had far-reaching implications. and Russian armies fought the French emperor in Leipzig. An upswing in international commerce from the 11th to 13th centuries led to the foundation of “Free Imperial Cities” like Hamburg and Lübeck (see Chapter 13 for both). 1740–1786). pitting the Protestant north against the Catholic south and affecting the whole of Europe. Military conflict on the eastern front resulted in the defeat of Russia. the works of German artists. During this period. During the “Golden Twenties. writers. and until the demise of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. in 1871. Prussian. Because of the weakness of central authority. Although the war wasn’t fought on German soil. the Catholic Church launched a Counter-Reformation that culminated in the bloody Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648).16 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ The Middle Ages: The power struggles and invasions of the Middle Ages continually disrupted the unity hammered out by Charlemagne. which was followed by the decisive Battle of Waterloo. After triumphs in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871).

ߜ The rise of Nazism and World War II: Economic crisis in Germany was a major factor in the rise of the Nazi movement. You can also visit the courtroom in Nuremberg where Nazi officials were tried after the war. Germany’s Jewish past is the subject of Berlin’s remarkable Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). ߜ Germany reunited: The opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989 marked for East Germany the culmination of a wave of previously . Two Germanys developed with highly different political. with its major cities in smoldering ruins. the war’s victors divided it into two states as the Cold War intensified. assistance in the form of the Marshall Plan. but old authoritarian. In Nuremberg (Chapter 18). near the eastern German town of Weimar. and imperialistic attitudes also provided a ripe environment for the National Socialist Party to take control. The Soviet blockade of West Berlin resulted in the Anglo-American Berlin airlift. nationalistic. Gypsies (Sinta. economic. thousands of German Jews. In Berlin. In 1961. including many prominent artists. Berlin (Chapter 12) is particularly rich in memorials commemorating the hundreds of thousands of Jews. which continued until 1949. As the brutal anti-Semitic political agenda of Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) became apparent. The Federal Republic of Germany in the western half of the country had its capital in Bonn. fled the country to escape persecution. and Dachau (Chapter 15). See Chapter 12 for information on walking tours that focus on Berlin’s Nazi and Jewish histories. walking tours take visitors past Nazi-era buildings and exhibits that interpret Nazi methods.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 17 Remembering the Nazi-era past Germany’s Nazi-era past and the enormity of crimes committed during World War II are facts that can’t be glossed over or overlooked. the site of Nazi-architect Albert Speer’s enormous Congress Hall has been reclaimed as the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Rally Grounds Documentation Center) with a brilliantly informative exhibit that chronicles the rise and fall of the National Socialists. scientists. gays. and social systems. and other groups that were murdered by the National Socialists between 1933 and 1945. Millions of Jews and other “undesirable” minorities throughout Germany and the rest of Nazi-occupied Europe were systematically exterminated in one of the most horrifying chapters in world history. At the end of the war. In 1948.S. the most comprehensive of its kind. in German). and politicians. northwest of Munich. West German recovery got underway with U. The most wrenching memorials of that gruesome chapter of German history are the concentration camps Buchenwald (Chapter 14). sealing off East Berlin from West Berlin. ߜ The two Germanys: Intending at first to govern conquered Germany as one unit. and the Soviet-ruled German Democratic Republic (GDR) in the eastern half had its capital in East Berlin. the Berlin Wall was constructed. Germany ceased to exist as an independent state.

Reforms by Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev and underground. The Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) and palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam (Chapter 12) are two of the best examples of baroque architecture in Germany. but the overall devastation affected nearly the entire country. Stalinist government of the GDR. soaring vaults and spires. The baroque flourished in Catholic. In 2006. Compared to Romanesque. built of brick. grassroots communication between citizens in East Germany led to massive demonstrations against the repressive.200 years of architectural history and were created in a number of different styles. Many historic buildings are painstaking postwar reconstructions. Renaissance architecture was imported from Italy into southern Germany. is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Germany. particularly in Cologne (Chapter 19). with East and West Germany united under one government. clear forms. ߜ Baroque (17th–18th centuries): A decorative exuberance in curvy baroque architecture sets it apart from the more sober Renaissance style. Angela Merkel became Germany’s first female chancellor. Munich (Chapter 15) abounds in the baroque. with pointed arches. ߜ Renaissance (late 15th–17th centuries): Augsburg (Chapter 16) is one of the best cities in Germany to see Renaissance architecture. Many interesting examples of Romanesque architecture are found in western Germany. a style characterized by calm precision. Counter-Reformation areas in the south of Germany. such as the medieval towns along the Romantic Road (see Chapter 16). Here are examples from around Germany of the major architectural trends: ߜ Romanesque (10th–12th centuries): Simple. Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture Buildings that you can visit on a trip to Germany span some 1. and rounded arches signal Romanesque architecture. ߜ Gothic (13th–16th centuries): Cologne Cathedral (Chapter 19) is Germany’s greatest example of Gothic architecture. built from 1045 to 1188. A simpler and more monumental kind of Gothic architecture. Bombing raids in WWII left much of the country’s rich architectural heritage in ruins. and classical decoration over windows and doors. In 1991.18 Part I: Introducing Germany suppressed revolutionary sentiment across central and eastern Europe. thick walls. Kilian in Würzburg (Chapter 16). predominates in northern Germany in cities such as Lübeck (Chapter 13). Berlin was made the nation’s new capital. a building style adapted from much earlier Roman models. this style is slender and daring. Some areas escaped damage. . and enormous windows. orderly repeating lines. The Dom St.

where the architect Schinkel created a whole neoclassical avenue (Unter den Linden) and island of museums. and it was most popular in Berlin (see Chapter 12). It’s a simple. ߜ Bauhaus (1913–1933): A rigorously modern style. who founded the Bauhaus school to create functional buildings and furnishings. The famous Mädlerpassage arcade in Leipzig (Chapter 14) shows Jugendstil influence. James Stirling’s Neue Staatsgalerie in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) is a reminder of just how clunky. This faux-medievalism is what Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein (Chapter 16) is all about. asymmetrical. and unappealing most postmodern buildings are. Bauhaus was championed by Walter Gropius (1883–1969). The Bauhaus style predominates in the Weissenhofsiedlung area of Stuttgart (Chapter 18). ߜ Jugendstil (early 20th century): Jugendstil is the German name for Art Nouveau. ߜ Neoclassical/Neo-Gothic (mid 18th–19th centuries): The neoclassical style was meant to be a rebuke to the excesses of baroque and rococo. an early-20th-century European movement that emphasized flowing. ߜ Modernism (1948 onward): A major housing shortage and rebuilding effort in bombed cities in Germany followed the devastation of WWII. created for a 1927 building exhibition. and so do many houses in the Schwabing district of Munich (Chapter 15). with many regional variations and specialties.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 19 ߜ Rococo (18th century): Notch up the elements of baroque and you have rococo. you’ll see modernist buildings all around you. As the century wore on. Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany German cooking tends to be hearty and filling. organic shapes. exemplified by curving walls and staggering amounts of gilded and stucco decoration. If you walk down the streets or pedestrian zones in just about any major German city. ߜ Postmodernism (1980s onward): Postmodernism is a style practiced by architects who plunder the past and apply old styles to the buildings of today. neoclassicism gave way to the more ponderous Neo-Gothic style. Bauhaus museums are in Weimar (Chapter 14) and Berlin (Chapter 12). Seasonal specialties include Spargel (white . uninspired. free of frills and unnecessary decoration. The school was banned by the Nazis because it didn’t promote “German-looking” architecture. One of the most famous examples of flamboyant rococo architecture in Germany is the Wieskirche (Chapter 16) in Bavaria. functional style with straight lines and square windows.

or Pilsener. and wine. Sampling German beer Bier (pronounced beer) remains a vital part of German culture. and Reh (venison) in the fall. Dark and sweet Malzbier (maltz-beer. When you order a beer in Germany. Pils. always serve good and fairly inexpensive traditional food. . can’t be poured in less than seven minutes to achieve the proper head.” is dark and strong. with a long-lasting head of white foam. from the barrel) or in a Flasche (flah-shuh. and Bockbier has 6 percent. Export. and taste all contribute to a German beer’s unique qualities. but not too cold. Lager. The range of beer varieties includes Altbier. malt beer) contains hardly any alcohol. A proper draft beer. and tell the waiter or tavernkeeper whether you want ein Bier vom Fass (fum fahss. decide whether you want a dunkles Bier (dark beer.20 Part I: Introducing Germany asparagus) in May and June. Bockbier. The most popular beer in Germany is Pils. malt (barley). bottle). Vollbier. Märzbier. is a Bavarian white beer. brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery). You ask for ein Grosses (ine grow-ses). Matjes (white herring) in June and July. in an appropriate beer glass or mug. beer. aging time. and Weizenbier. Vollbier (foal-beer. followed by Export. especially in southern Germany. Weizenbier (vitsen-beer). for a large. The traditional Biergarten (beer garden). When it comes to baked goods — bread and pastries — Germany has more variety than any country in the world. Pils. The beer is always served cold. color. Export has 5 percent. traditional cellar restaurants beneath a city’s Rathaus (Town Hall). for a small. and a beer with lunch in the factory cafeteria is taken for granted. according to the Germans. with tables set outdoors under trees or trellises. In the country as a whole. or standard beer) has 4 percent alcohol. yeast.200 varieties of biscuits and cakes. A Bräuhaus (broy-house) serves its own brew along with local food. Berlin. Kölsch. you can taste about 150 different types of sausage. Erdbeeren (strawberries) in spring. with about 300 different types of bread and 1. so much so that the right to drink beer is written into some labor contracts. brewed with darkly roasted malt fermented for a long period of time) or a helles Bier (light beer. brewing temperature and technique. Ratskellers. and Nuremberg all have their own special kinds. and water. beers are light and contain more hops. alcoholic content. or ein Kleines (ine kly-nis). The ratio of ingredients. you have many choices. Märzbier (maertz-beer). Munich. made from wheat. A German law adopted in 1516 dictates that German beer may contain no ingredients other than hops. To order a beer. or “March beer. is still very popular. Forelle (trout) in the summer. Malzbier.

is the capital of Marzipan (almond paste). Each city has its favorites. ߜ Europe Central by William T. the German tradition of afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is alive and well. provide excellent accompaniments to any meal. cultural. for example. ߜ Before the Deluge: A Portrait of Berlin in the 1920s by Otto Friedrich: A fascinating portrait of the political. that can help you gain a better understanding of German history. and Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is famous for its Lebkuchen (spice cakes). And German beers are legendary. ߜ Bismarck by Edward Crankshaw: An objective and highly readable life of the first chancellor of the German Empire and a seminal figure in Germany’s Prussian past. brilliant novel that examines the authoritarian cultures of 20th-century Germany and . German wines (Chapter 23). Lübeck (Chapter 13). Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies In the following book and movie lists. about WWII and the Holocaust. past and present. Books (fiction and nonfiction) The number of books written about Germany. I attempt to provide a broad overview of Germany from many different perspectives and historical epochs. has increased dramatically during the past two decades. ߜ Billiards at Half-Past Nine by Heinrich Böll: A compelling novel by one of Germany’s best-known writers about the compromises made by a rich German family during the Hitler years. ߜ Berlin Journal 1989–1990 by Robert Darnton: An eyewitness account of the events that led to the opening of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of East Germany’s Communist regime. The books I’ve selected include many great German authors. personalities. too. ߜ Conversations with Goethe by Johann Peter Eckermann: Early19th-century Germany from the viewpoint of the most renowned German figure of the Enlightenment. mostly from grapes grown in the scenic Rhine and Mosel valleys (Chapter 19). this novel deals with the transition of a merchant family in Lübeck from 19th-century stability to 20th-century uncertainty. and social life of Berlin between the wars. Look out for regional specialties. and in particular.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 21 Although not kind to the waistline. ߜ Buddenbrooks by Thomas Mann: A classic of German literature. Vollman: A bold. brewed right in the area. and politics.

22 Part I: Introducing Germany Russia and creates a mesmerizing picture of life during wartime from many different perspectives. ߜ Germany 1866–1945 by Gordon Craig: One of the best single accounts of the turbulent political. ߜ Here I Stand: A Life of Martin Luther by Roland Bainton: A fascinating and meticulously researched account of the Protestant reformer. winner of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. ߜ The Tin Drum by Günter Grass: Perhaps the most famous novel about life in post-WWII Germany. and patron of the arts. scholar. mayor of cold-war West Berlin (1957–1966). ߜ The Last Jews in Berlin by Leonard Gross: Gripping. written by a Nobel Prize winner who kept his own Nazi past a secret until 2006. Konrad: If you’re interested in tracing your German roots. Maier: A study of German attempts to come to terms with the Holocaust and the recent controversy surrounding conservative attempts to downplay the historical . musician. ߜ A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain: Twain’s account of his travels in Germany is as fresh today as when it first was published in 1899. this powerful novel explores Nazism and its aftermath in the north German provinces. this easy-to-follow guide makes the task easier. cultural. ߜ The Unmasterable Past: History. ߜ Frederick the Great by Nancy Mitford: Frederick. and John Toland. ߜ The German Lesson by Siegfried Lenz: A bestseller when it first appeared in 1971. including works by Robert Payne. ߜ German Family Research Made Easy by J. Joachim Fest. and economic life in Germany from the foundation of the German Reich through the end of the Third Reich. and German National Identity by Charles S. ߜ My Life in Politics by Willy Brandt: The political memoirs of Willy Brandt (1913–1992). and chancellor of West Germany (1969–1974). statesman. true stories of a handful of Jews who managed to remain in Berlin during WWII by hiding out in the homes of non-Jewish German friends. sketched with wit and humor. Holocaust. ߜ The Germans by Gordon Craig: A highly readable and knowledgeable portrait of postwar Germany. ߜ Five Germanys I Have Known by Fritz Stern: The well-known historian chronicles the five distinct eras of Germany’s modern history that his Jewish family has experienced. ߜ Hitler: 1936–1945: Nemesis by Ian Kershaw: Several good biographies about Hitler have been written. but Kershaw’s is one of the best.

customs. ߜ Cabaret (1972): A musical based on Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories and set in Berlin at the brink of WWII. senator. ߜ The Blue Angel (1930): The film that shot Marlene Dietrich to international stardom remains stark.S. ߜ Bent (1997): Movie adaptation of Martin Sherman’s powerful play about Max. . a gay man sent to Dachau concentration camp under the Nazi regime. and provocative. starring Marlene Dietrich as an amoral cabaret singer and Jean Arthur as a self-righteous U. ߜ Ludwig (1972): Visconti’s turgid epic about the last king of Bavaria. ߜ Witness to Nuremberg by Richard Sonnenfeldt: The chief American interpreter at the war-crimes trials tell his story of dealing directly with Hermann Göring. ߜ A Foreign Affair (1948): Billy Wilder’s cynically hilarious look at postwar occupied Berlin. Do as the Germans Do by Hyde Flippo: A short. and heritage. My recommended list includes a selection of German and Germany-themed films available on VHS or DVD.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany uniqueness of the German genocide against Jews and other minorities. ߜ The Cabinet of Doctor Caligari (1921): One of the earliest horror films. 23 ߜ When in Germany. this classic German silent movie used expressionist sets to create a tale of murder and madness. WWII and the Holocaust have dominated the subject matter of recent films about Germany — so much so that German-made films about contemporary German life rarely get a showing outside of Germany unless they win a top prize at a film festival. entertaining crash course in German culture. ߜ Goodbye. startling. ߜ The Marriage of Maria Braun (1979): Hanna Schygulla stars as a woman married to a soldier in the waning days of WWII. from learning that the wall has come down and Germany has been reunited. a loyal Communist. ߜ Berlin Alexanderplatz (1980): Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 15-part television adaptation of the novel by Alfred Döblin follows the life of a man released from prison between the two world wars. the one who built Neuschwanstein. Movies As with literature. Lenin! (2004): A wry comedy about a young man in East Berlin who tries to keep his bedridden mother. the powerful Nazi official who was subsequently executed for war crimes.

24 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Metropolis (1927): Fritz Lang directed this classic of German cinema. Lola. ߜ Wings of Desire (1988): An angel roaming the streets of Berlin and recording the angst and joy of ordinary life falls in love with a mortal. ߜ Run. Run (1999): Fast-paced twists and turns as Lola races desperately through Berlin seeking 100. ߜ Olympiad (1936): Leni Riefenstahl’s super-Aryan take on the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin.000 Deutsche Marks to save her boyfriend from being rubbed out by a gangster. . in which the Workers plan a revolt against the aloof Thinkers that dominate them in a future dystopia. ߜ Triumph of the Will (1934): Leni Riefenstahl filmed the gigantic 1934 Nazi conference and rally in Nuremberg as “image-control” propaganda for the Third Reich.

and city in Deutschland. is a selective guidebook. which is influenced by the North and Baltic seas. W Going Where You Want to Be Germany For Dummies. I help you to narrow your focus so you can start planning your trip in earnest. region. 3rd Edition. only the essential highlights.Chapter 3 Deciding Where and When to Go In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring Germany’s main points of interest ᮣ Scheduling your trip ᮣ Getting a grip on the seasons: Tourism and weather ᮣ Flipping through the country’s calendar of events hat do you want to see when you visit Germany. special festivals and events. historic towns. often is wet or . or avoid. You also find a calendar of events so you can time your trip to coincide with. I don’t cover every state. geared to savvy travelers who want to know more about Germany’s leading sights. the north’s sober redbrick Gothic churches and buildings lack the ornate baroque decorations found in the Catholic south. and scenic regions that Germany has to offer. Architecturally. too. see “The Regions in Brief” map in this chapter. special sights. The climate in the north. This chapter points out highlights of each region and gives you the lowdown on the weather so you can determine the best destinations and time of year for your visit. Discovering northern Germany Northern Germany is a different world from southern Germany. My aim in this book is to introduce you to the best cities. The food is plainer. with an emphasis on fish. For locations. check out the following thumbnail sketches and find details of the best places Germany has to offer in Chapters 1 and 2. To figure out which regions to visit during your trip. and when do you want to go? In this chapter.

and Bremen. which houses an outstanding. Big. historic reverberations. one Communist — after World War II. one of the biggest in the world. on the other hand. In Hamburg. and visit the Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum). so are the breezy Alster Lakes in the center of the city. cafes. It has stitched itself back together to become the capital (and largest city) of a reunified Germany and now reigns as one of the most fascinating cities in the world. opened in 2005. you see examples of its 900-yearold history everywhere you turn. multifaceted collection of art. In Bremen. . Does the Berliner Luft (Berlin air) account for Berlin’s endless and ongoing fizz of excitement. The peaceful revolution of 1989 began there. After Berlin and Munich (in the south).26 Part I: Introducing Germany misty. on the Elbe River and only two hours from Berlin by train. but some people believe the maritime atmosphere is part of its overall appeal. East Germany’s secret police. you have an opportunity to visit sections of eastern Germany that for 45 years were inaccessible. and the city seems to be working overtime to shake off its GDR legacy: The Museum in der Runden Ecke is devoted to the role the Stasi. you can also explore beautiful 19th-century neighborhoods. now a lively area with restaurants. and the Museum of Fine Arts. and bars. such as Altona. brash Berlin was the capital of the old German Reich for 70 years before it was divided into two cities — one capitalist. another easy daytrip from Hamburg. has been less interested in restoring its past than looking toward the future. Hamburg is the third-largest city in Germany. and striking new architecture. top performing-arts venues. as some people claim? With world-class museums. is a major tourist attraction. under the Communist regime of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). The Bach Museum is of interest to classical-music lovers. you find a historic center with a day’s worth of sightseeing possibilities. Exploring eastern Germany Now that Germany is reunited. Leipzig. 18thcentury palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam — in Chapters 11 and 12. or at least difficult to visit. turn to Chapter 13. Lübeck. Berlin is where all is happening in Germany right now. an easy daytrip from Hamburg. For the scoop on Hamburg. Similarly. In the Altstadt. played in the lives of citizens. Lübeck. Dresden. has treasures beyond measure in the Zwinger Palace and the Residenzschloss. the Zeitgeschichtliches Museum (Contemporary History Museum) chronicles the history and artifacts of the GDR years. and its harbor. from the Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall) to the church spires that dominate the skyline. according to the United Nations’ agency that promotes education and the arts. offers a rich collection of European art and 19th-century German paintings. You find comprehensive coverage of Berlin — including a daytrip to Frederick the Great’s charming. has so many medieval brick buildings that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site — a place judged to be of exceptional cultural value.

The small Bauhaus Museum exhibits paintings. Cuxhaven Rügen gen Mecklenburg Stralsund Pomeranian Bay Bay Rostock Greifswald Wismar Lübeck beck West Frisian Is. textiles. The homes of these two literary giants are Weimar’s most popular tourist attractions. furniture.d. and to the playwright Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805).T. pottery. Stettin Bay Neubrandenburg Wilhelmshaven Emden Oldenburg Bremerhaven W Elb e Hamburg El be Schwerin TH HE E N ET H ERLAN DS NET HER L AND S Bremen Celle Northern and Eastern Germany See Part III Alle r Brandenburg Havel Osnabr ck Osnabrück Minden Hannover Braunschweig Hameln Goslar BERLIN Frankfurt Münster nster Rh in e Bielefeld Detmold Hildesheim Potsdam an der Oder Oder bbenau Lübbenau Cottbus Magdeburg H A R Z Wittenberg Essen Lippe Dortmund Ruhr Düsseldorf sseldorf Bad Pyrmont Dessau be El Od ese r Lüneburg neburg er POLAND Mönchengladbach nchengladbach Cologne Aachen Ems Ne We ser Spre Göttingen ttingen isse Halle Leipzig e Kassel Weimar Bad Wildungen Eisenach Erfurt Bautzen Naumburg Meissen Dresden Altenburg Freiberg Jena Görlitz rlitz TH Bonn BEL BE LG GIUM IU M Bad Nauheim Bad Homburg Bad Kissingen GE Gera Zwickau RW Chemnitz ER E ZG BI RG E Koblenz Wiesbaden Mainz Rhi ne ÜR ALD Coburg Hof La IN be BernkastelKues Frankfurt am Main Aschaffenburg Ma Würzburg rzburg AN Speyer Rothenburg o. A visit to the Buchenwald Memorial. Nuremberg C AN FR Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl O JUR LUXEMTrier BOURG in Bayreuth Bamberg Darmstadt Worms Mannheim eck Homburg Heidelberg N Saarbrücken Saarbr cken A CZECH REPUBLIC M Ta ub er BO NI ar HE A Karlsruhe BadenBaden Schwäbisch Schw bisch Hall Stuttgart Ulm B (SC LAC Rhi ne HW K F AR OR ZW EST AL D) Tübingen bingen Regensburg F O RE Da ST nub e rdlingen Nördlingen r Ingolstadt Isa Passau Augsburg Landshut N I FRANCE Lech Freiburg Lörrach rrach SWAB Donaueschingen Meersburg Konstanz Lindau Lake JU IAN RA nu Da be Dachau Munich Oberammergau Füssen ssen GarmischPartenkirchen Southern and Western Germany See Part IV Prien am AU Chiemsee Berchtesgaden STRIA SW S W I TZ TZE ER RLA L A ND ND Constance (Bodensee) Neuschwanstein Zugspitze The small.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 27 The Regions in Brief 0 0 50 mi Sylt Sylt Westerland DENMARK Baltic Sea Kiel Bay Hiddensee N 50 km Flensburg North Frisian Is. the site of a Nazi-run concentration camp just outside of Weimar where at least 56. which began here in 1919. and drawings from the Bauhaus school. It suffered little damage during the war and was the home of Germany’s greatest writer.000 people . eastern town of Weimar is in a category of its own. Schleswig Mountain Kiel North Sea East Frisian Is. the poet and dramatist Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832). quiet.

Ranking right up there with the offerings of Berlin are Munich’s museums. with an upscale chic. Southern Germany also includes the Bodensee (also called Lake Constance). Both areas offer great natural beauty and plenty of recreational opportunities. Bavaria. crammed with old masters. the Bodensee. The Romantic Road and daytrips in Bavaria are covered in Chapter 16. is a place that’s tailor-made for tourists.28 Part I: Introducing Germany died. with stops at several perfectly preserved medieval towns along the way. Lindau. This enchanting route winds south from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein. Germany’s highest peak. Bavaria is full of scenic splendor and picturesque charm. with year-round opera. This alpine region. Germany’s largest lake. and concerts of all kinds. From there you can explore the surrounding forest or hunt for a cuckoo clock. The city’s most popular museum is the Deutsches Museum. You find complete coverage of Dresden. an island in the lake. a town that’s famous for its woodcarvers and for the Passion play performed there every ten years — a tradition dating back to the 17th century. Details about the Bodensee and the Black Forest are in Chapter 17. the largest science and technology museum in the world. can be an intense and profoundly moving experience. . with its famous mineral baths and glamorous casino. the capital. and major 20th-century artists. You also find lovely churches with sober Gothic and exuberant baroque interiors. the daytrip to the mountain resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen is an easy one. where cowbells clang in the meadows and classic chalets nestle in picturesque valleys. or Black Forest. sits in a sun-drenched basin with a view of the Alps to the south. and vineyards and fruit trees grow around its shoreline. and the famous Schwarzwald. and Weimar in Chapter 14. the most beautiful driving tour in Germany. From Munich. but it’s also boisterous. Farther north is the city of Baden-Baden. You’ll find plenty of both along the Romantic Road. even raucous: Millions pour into the city during Oktoberfest to experience Munich’s renowned giant beer halls and beer gardens. In the center of town sits an enormous palace. is cultured and elegant. and it’s close to the Zugspitze. In the Black Forest. which is accessible by cable car. one of the traditional industries of the Black Forest region. 19th-century greats. used by the rulers of Bavaria from the 14th century up to 1918. semitropical gardens flourish on Mainau. Munich. also is where you find Oberammergau. symphony. Germany’s largest and most prosperous Land (state). Savoring southern Germany Southern Germany is worlds apart from the north. Leipzig. Chapter 15 is devoted to the many delights of Munich. is the best spot to stay. the Residenz. an island-city connected to the mainland by a causeway. the lively and lovely city of Freiburg is a delight. Munich’s musical life is the envy of many cities. Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle in the Bavarian Alps.

business-oriented buzz and a skyline pierced by designer skyscrapers. and good-natured town offers more than enough to keep you busy for a couple of days. Stuttgart. River cruises originating in Cologne and many other cities in the area take you through valleys of neatly clipped vineyards soaking up sunlight on steep hillsides. which comes as a wonderful surprise to many visitors. or Cologne (as it’s known in English). For more on Cologne and side trips into Germany’s wine country. occupies a prime spot on the Rhine River. Köln. Frankfurt probably is the best-known metropolis in western Germany. Sitting on the Neckar River amid green hills. and Nuremberg are covered in Chapter 18. one of Germany’s best for art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. Little more than a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of WWII.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 29 Wending through western Germany Western Germany is a densely populated area with an ancient history and cities with vibrant personalities all their own. Heidelberg’s enormous ruined castle oversees its picturesque Altstadt (Old Town). in part because it’s the point of entry for most visitors who fly into the country. all described in Chapter 20. Among its many cultural offerings are several important museums. Its chief glory is its awe-inspiring Dom (Cathedral). Cologne was an important Roman town during a period that is wonderfully interpreted in the Romisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). By contrast. The city’s past dark side as a center for Nazi rallies is documented in the harrowing exhibit at the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Party Rally Grounds Documentation Center) created within Albert Speer’s Nazi Congress Hall. The Rhine and Mosel valleys in western Germany form one of Europe’s top wine-producing areas. the largest Gothic structure north of the Alps. Cologne also is one of the contemporary-art capitals of Germany. and the Museum Ludwig. and a delightful Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum). The banking capital of Germany and the European Union. see Chapter 19. Nuremberg has as many romantic corners as Heidelberg. Frankfurt has a modern. reigns as the cultural capital of southwestern Germany. Nürnberg (or Nuremberg as it’s known in English) was rebuilt in a style that evokes the medieval era when it was one of the most important cities in Germany. only 40 minutes by train from Heidelberg. Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is the oldest in Germany. You can also visit many wine towns by train. the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). in addition to the country’s largest museum of art and culture. an art museum housed in a striking glass cube offering a panoramic view of Stuttgart. one of the top modern-art museums in Europe. sophisticated. Chief among its many outstanding museums are the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. Stuttgart. Stuttgart’s is one of the largest. Heidelberg is for many people the quintessential romantic German town. with major painting collections and the fabulous Neue Galerie. Heidelberg. This lively. .

all the major cities of western Germany — Heidelberg. Ascension Day (ten days before Pentecost/ Whitsunday. Corpus Christi (ten days after Pentecost). consider centering your itineraries in Berlin. rent a car at Frankfurt airport and drive to the beginning of the scenic route in Würzburg. and Lindau on Lake Constance. in addition to Augsburg. Munich. Frankfurt airport has its own train station. so you can choose the best time for your visit. Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday). and Cologne. May 1 (Labor Day). . ߜ From Cologne. In addition. an easy hour-and-a-half drive away (see Chapter 16 for more details). including Neuschwanstein. and Weimar in eastern Germany. and Oberammergau. the seventh Sunday after Easter). you have easy access to the cities of Dresden. and Berlin. Hamburg. and December 25 to 26 (Christmas). the latter of which has a new Delta direct flight from New York. Füssen. Many museums and attractions close on the following public holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day). Easter (including Good Friday and Easter Monday). the northern German cities of Lübeck and Bremen are a short train ride away. the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany). You can also arrange for boat trips on the Rhine and visit the winegrowing regions by car or train. Leipzig. Munich. If a driving tour along the Romantic Road is part of your itinerary. If you want to explore all parts of the country. October 3 (Day of German Unity). and Baden-Baden — are never more than three hours away by train. August 15 (Assumption). so it’s possible to hop on a fast train at the airport and arrive almost anywhere in Germany within five hours or less of your arrival. ߜ From Berlin.30 Part I: Introducing Germany Scheduling Your Time If you’re flying into the country from outside of Europe. ߜ From Munich. Revealing the Secret of the Seasons How do you decide what time of year to travel to Germany? This section presents the pros and cons of each season. and November 1 (All Saints’ Day). Keep German holidays in mind when scheduling your trip. November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance). your airport choices are Frankfurt. Stuttgart. you can easily reach places in the Bavarian Alps. ߜ From Hamburg. Nuremberg.

Recent summers brought record-breaking heat waves and even in autumn many parts of Germany can be warmer than expected. although I can give you a very broad overview of general weather patterns in Germany. or the Reichstag dome in Berlin.2 2. Table 3-1 Berlin’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Temp. °C Rainfall (in. especially in the north. some report a hotter and drier climate. for instance.4 34 1 1. bear in mind that the climate is constantly affected by colliding continental and maritime air masses from the Baltic and North seas. and many hotels consequently offer lower summer rates. crowds and prices tend to rise during big trade fairs. Most castles and palaces can be visited daily yearround. Nearly all large German cities have a Messe.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 31 Traveling during high and low seasons Roughly speaking.9 2. some locals claim that they now receive less snow and more rain than in decades past. and tourist offices have shorter hours and may be closed certain days of the week. Germany has a predominantly mild. may be more than two hours long. In general. These trade fairs can put a real squeeze on hotel rooms.2 1. October and November and January through March are the low seasons. Average summer temperatures range from 72°F to 80°F (20°C–30°C). Overall. For average temperatures and rainfalls.3 60 16 2. castles. That said. see Table 3-1 for Berlin in the north and Table 3-2 for Frankfurt in the south. As in many parts of the world. I think a disclaimer is in order. July and August may be less expensive because that’s when Germans take off on their own holidays. generally from October through March.6 3.2 1. In southern Germany. resulting in plenty of unpredictable weather.2 49 9 1. In the winter months. the lines for major attractions.9 64 18 62 17 56 13 2. The country is most crowded during the months of May and June. but from April through September. In northern Germany.6 40 4 2. the high season for travel in Germany is from Easter to the end of September with another peak in December. or convention center/fairground. So. °F Temp. be prepared for variations. like Neuschwanstein and Linderhof castles in Bavaria. Watching those unpredictable skies Before I write about the weather in Germany. the weather in Germany has become less predictable than in the past.6 1. The average winter temperature hovers around 32°F (0°C).7 . museums.) 30 –1 32 0 40 4 48 9 53 12 2. with a year-round schedule of major trade shows in all industries. temperate climate.

ߜ The carefully tended parks and gardens in German cities show off their first spring flowers. °C Rainfall (in.6 5.1 5. major attractions in cities throughout Germany tend to be more crowded. such as Lindau. though. shall we say. Here are some of the season’s highlights: ߜ The warmth of springtime sun coaxes out the new vines in Germany’s Rhineland wine country. °F Temp. especially around Easter. The Föhn.8 41 5 6. ߜ The snow in the Alps usually melts by April. rainy weather can last well into early summer in Berlin and other northern cities.) 6. But keep in mind these springtime pitfalls: ߜ Cold. Blossoming in spring Spring comes earliest in the south and in the Rhine Valley.32 Part I: Introducing Germany Table 3-2 Frankfurt’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 34 1 36 2 42 6 49 9 57 14 5.0 5. consider visiting in April and May. the least-gray months usually are June and September.5 66 19 66 19 58 14 4. In the interior of Germany. a dry south wind from the Alps. leaving May as an “inbetween” off-month: The weather in the Alps tends to be soggy and foggy at this time. ߜ In towns around Bodensee. ߜ Blossoms appear on the fruit trees grown around the Bodensee and the Rhine. the months that are least cloudy.2 50 10 4. heralds the approach of spring around the giant Bodensee (Lake Constance) and in the river valleys of the Black Forest and throughout southwestern Germany. you find asparagus specialties on menus everywhere. an early spring means that tables are set up in sunny squares and life begins to move outdoors. Even with clear skies. .1 If your trip includes northern Germany. the weather up north can remain. ߜ During school holidays. invigorating.9 63 17 5.7 5.5 5. ߜ May and June is Spargel (white asparagus) season throughout Germany.5 35 2 6 Temp.

local winds. and Berlin become more inviting as warm weather settles in. humid. until 10 p. ߜ Getting into top attractions like Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace can take two hours or more. autumn is likely to be rainy and blustery. around Cologne and even as far north as Berlin. In the north. wet winters. ߜ In traffic-jammed cities like Berlin. hotels and concert halls can be broiling. Summer weather in the Bavarian Alps is extremely variable and changes according to altitude. mid. ߜ Many attractions are open longer hours. and the orientation of individual valleys to the sun. Leipzig. and thundery.and late-summer days can become hot. or what the Germans call Altweibersommer (old women’s summer). But keep in mind: ߜ Airfare tends to be higher during summer months. mild weather in southern Germany. ߜ Warm summer nights stay light much longer. the Black Forest. windless days. making this a perfect time to explore the Romantic Road. Indian summer. gasoline and diesel exhaust can create air pollution on hot. Glowing in autumn Fall is one of the best times to visit Germany. Neckar. However. ߜ You can dine alfresco (outdoors) in most German cities. ߜ Heat and humidity can make for sticky sightseeing throughout central and southern Germany. frequently makes a welcome appearance during October and November.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 33 Shining (and raining) in summer From April through September. The deciduous trees in the Black and Thuringian forests and along the Rhine.m. you can generally count on warm. heralding gray. vines turn yellow. Summer in the north comes later and remains variable because of maritime influences from the North and Baltic seas. and Frankfurt. . after the grape harvest. ߜ Lakes in the Alps. Some summer perks to consider: ߜ Prices for hotels often are lower in July and August. and other river valleys turn golden as the days grow shorter. or sometimes later. ߜ Air-conditioning is not common in Germany. Autumn days are beautiful in scenic Bavaria. which also can be the case in Dresden. Munich. In southern and western Germany. ߜ Outdoor musical performances and street fairs take place in many cities and regions. and the landlocked eastern portion of the country.

. the Bavarian Alps. The cold can be raw. and often turns into sleet. Cologne and Munich celebrate with citywide carnivals (Fasching). Welcoming winter Snow can fall anywhere in Germany. ߜ Although you’ll be comfortable in your hotel. ߜ Almost everything shuts down on December 25 and 26 and New Year’s Day. Winter can be wonderful because: ߜ In December. snow doesn’t stay on the ground for long. lending a special air to the country’s many Christmas markets. handcrafted goods. and the Rhineland glow with autumn hues. This season has only one real drawback: Autumn may be gray and rainy. especially in the north. and baked delights. and seemingly endless. ߜ Daylight drops dramatically: Darkness falls as early as 3:30 or 4 p. ߜ Germany’s cultural calendar of opera. ߜ Scenic areas like the Black Forest. numbing. This story is different in the Bavarian Alps and the Black Forest. ߜ Towns in winegrowing areas celebrate with wine festivals. ߜ Airfares usually drop. ߜ When the snow starts to fall in the Alps and the Black Forest. But winter has its downside: ߜ Brrr.34 Part I: Introducing Germany A few advantages of autumn: ߜ Summer crowds have thinned out by the end of September. and other events swings into high gear. symphony.m. ߜ In the weeks before Lent. where the winter weather is colder and snow adds to the beauty of the mountain and forest landscapes. cities throughout the country set up magical outdoor Christmas markets where you find tree ornaments. But with winter temperatures hovering right around freezing. especially in the north. Both the Alps and the Black Forest are known for their fine skiing and winter sports. ߜ Giant beer festivals transform Munich and Stuttgart. skiers head for the slopes and cross-country trails. ߜ The smell of new wine fills the old streets of winegrowing towns. Germans tend to underheat rather than overheat their spaces.

including concerts. www. Rothenburg ob der Tauber celebrates the story of how a brave citizen saved the town from destruction by drinking a huge tankard of wine (an event called Der Meistertrunk).de). Second week in February. A week in February. Third week in May.bachleipzig. Celebrations in Cologne (% 0221/9433. Check its Web site ( Goarshausen) illuminate their castles and set off fireworks. February The well-respected Berlin International Film Festival (% 030/25920. Events take place twice a year. reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday. www. is one of Europe’s major winter sporting events.rothenburg. May through July. first week of September. or call or write for a free calendar of events. contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. and in other churches and concert halls. Verifying dates beforehand with the German National Tourist Board is a good idea.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 35 Perusing a Calendar of Events Germany hums year-round with festivals and special events of all kinds. www. See the appendix for the tourist board’s contact information. contact Tourist Information (% 09861/40492. For in Leipzig features performances of Johann Sebastian Bach’s work in the famous Thomaskirche. and St.garmisch-partenkirchen.muenchen-tourist. May Hamburg Summer is a summer-long series of cultural events.germany-tourism. www. in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/180-700. For information. During the Historisches Festspiel (Historic Festival).de) lasts for a week and showcases the work of international film directors in addition to the latest German films. Koblenz and Braubach. are particularly and Munich (% 089/ various towns along the Rhine (between Bonn and Linz. Fasching (Carnival) festivals take place in Catholic cities throughout Germany. The renowned Bachfest/Bach Festival (% 0341/913-7333. January 1. Bingen and Rüdesheim. plays. where he was choirmaster. On special Saturday nights during Rhein im Feuerzauber (Rhine in Flames). Goar and St. www. January New Year’s Day International Ski The best . and special exhibitions. Last week in May to the first week in June.

Cologne. For details.volksfest-nuernberg. a big Frankish folk festival in Nuremberg (% 0911/468-600. Mid-August. During the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival (% 0800/7463-2002. first weekend in June. The Traditional Rüdesheim Wine Part I: Introducing Germany vantage point is from a riverboat on the Rhine. gay-web.freiburg. For more information. Nürnberger Herbsfest (Fall Festival). www. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/ Last week in August through first week in MidJuly to early September. Unfortunately. and events for the whole family. Late July to late August. featuring parades. in Rüdesheim am Rhein. opera tickets must be booked years in shmf. June Fireworks enliven the sky in the romantic university city of Heidelberg during the Floodlighting of the in Bayreuth. jazz concerts. heidelberg. de). contact Heidelberg Tourist-Information. takes place in the Rhine village most famous for red wines. Berlin and Cologne have the largest Gay Pride festivals. Events take place in the Münsterplatz surrounding Freiburg’s magnificent cathedral. www. www. classical concerts take place in venues in and around the lovely old city of Lübeck. for events in Cologne. May through September.festspiele. For information.freiburg. . For information. performances. log on to www. mid-July. features folk music. takes place in the composer’s famous Festspielhaus (opera house). Last weekend in contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau (% 06722/19433). www. one of the best music festivals in Germany. contact the German National Tourist Board (see the appendix for contact info). contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. Mid-August. the Richard Wagner Festival (% 0921/78780. local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district and regional food specialties. www. Enjoy vintages from the surrounding Black Forest area during Freiburg im Breisgau’s Public Wine Tasting. July One of Europe’s major opera events. and street For events in Berlin. Early June. last weekend in June. For information. log on to www. Pavillon (% 06221/19433. August During Weinkost (Food and Wine Fair) in Freiburg im Breisgau. www. and early September.

www. which take place around Binnenalster Lake. include food stalls. staged at the Philharmonie. begins with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes and features for information. the Berliner Festwochen (Berlin Festival) brings an international roster of performing artists to Berlin for opera. wine lovers converge on Schillerplatz to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. an annual amusement fair at Hamburg’s Heiligengeistfeld. not October.000 beer drinkers. www. For information. Last weekend in August. October The largest book fair in Europe. contact the Stuttgart tourist information office (% 0711/2228259.frankfurt-book-fair. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/ One of the high points on the cultural calendar of Germany. and tents for beer drinkers. and theatrical presentations. Events. and for more details. . is the biggest public event in northern Germany. Millions show up. Most activities occur at Theresienwiese. attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists. www. September through www. Dating back to is a major event in the world of international book Germany’s most famous festival. Hamburger Dom (also called Winter Dom). First week in November.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 37 Arts and pleasure abound during Hamburg’s Alstervergnügen (Alster Pleasures).oktoberfest. contact TourismusZentrale (% 040/3005-1201. and visitors pack www. where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to 6. November The annual Jazz-Fest Berlin. symphony. Late the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. Mid-September to the first Sunday in October. At the Stuttgart Wine Festival. rides. Contact the tourist information office (% 0711/222-8259. For information. www. fireworks. the 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. September Munich’s Oktoberfest (www. For more information. happens mostly in Last week in August. the Frankfurt Book Fair (% 069/21010. Mid-October. November 9 to December 9.

38 Part I: Introducing Germany December A Christmas Market. You find them in Cologne. generally called a Weihnachtsmarkt (Weihnachten means Christmas) or a Christkindlmarkt (literally. and Stuttgart. Nuremberg. takes place in town squares throughout Germany. “Christ Child Market”). Dresden. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Munich. Late November or early December until Christmas. among other cities. Leipzig. Contact the individual tourist offices of each city. for details (see the appendix for contact information). Frankfurt. . or the German National Tourist Board.

some of these itineraries are more enjoyable if you have a car. beginning in Munich and ending in Berlin. Spend Day 1 in marvelous Munich. I lay out some suggested travel itineraries for those with limited time or with special interests. the city’s main square. Afterward. Then walk over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt. For details on getting around the country. I include two of King Ludwig II’s castles and a brief stop in Cologne. Chapter 16 for the Bavarian Alps and its castles. watch the Glockenspiel. shows you the contrasts between southern Germany and northern Germany and introduces you to the country’s two greatest cities. You can go up to the top of the Rathaus tower for a bird’s-eye view. and visit the nearby Frauenkirche. Browse around and find a place for lunch from among the dozens of possibilities in the area. on the Rhine. and Chapter 12 for Berlin. see Chapter 15 for Munich.Chapter 4 Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options In This Chapter ᮣ Seeing Germany’s top attractions in one or two weeks ᮣ Discovering Germany with your kids ᮣ Planning trips for wine aficionados P utting together a good itinerary is one of the hardest parts of any trip. (See Chapter 1 for some preliminary information on what the country offers. Munich’s largest church. see Chapter 7. Head first for Marienplatz. Chapter 19 for Cologne.) Although you can reach all the destinations in this chapter by train or public transportation. For more information about the sights that I mention. Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week This seven-day itinerary. one of the greatest food markets in Europe. how do you know what’s worth seeing and what isn’t? In this chapter. If you haven’t visited a destination before. make your way to the . Shake out your plane-cramped legs by taking to the streets for some general exploration.

a showcase for 19thcentury German and European art.40 Part I: Introducing Germany Asamkirche for a glimpse of the baroque ornamentation for which southern Germany is famous. Ludwig II’s Frenchinspired castle. you can easily get a bus from Füssen for the 6. In the afternoon. If you choose Nymphenburg. choose another museum to visit. From Garmisch. and be sure to take time to stroll around the lovely historic district of town. Germany’s highest peak. In the afternoon. which is famous for its woodcarvers. By train from Oberammergau. and be sure to visit the collection of carriages.5km (4-mile) trip to the castle. allow some extra time to wander through the gardens. Oberammergau. for a spectacular view of the Alps. the location for Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. the brand-new Pinakothek Moderne Kunst. Make Neuschwanstein your top priority. head to the Bavarian Alps. you can make an easy excursion to the Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). or Füssen. a beautiful baroque masterpiece located just a few miles north of Füssen. On Day 3. Wander through this small Bavarian town. have dinner at the fun-loving Hofbräuhaus. so you may want to end your evening at a concert or the opera. If you’re interested in science and technology. take a bus from Oberammergau to Schloss Linderhof. At some point. Spend the night in Garmisch. If you’re an art lover. this castle quickly fills up with tourists as the day wears on. the closest town to Linderhof Palace. If you’re in the mood for oom-pah-pah. Or you can take a train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and ascend the Zugspitze. visit adjacent Hohenschwangau Castle. the trip takes a little more than an hour. Three possibilities are the Neue Pinakothek. If you rent a car. Munich’s largest and prettiest park. If you’re driving. On Day 4. . Start Day 2 in a palace. which includes the bizarrely ornate sleighs and coaches used by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. which displays an international collection of 20th-century masterpieces. the trip is only 40 minutes by train or car to Oberammergau. Or make an easy excursion to beautiful Schloss Nymphenburg. if you’re still in a “royal” mood. Ludwig’s childhood home. Have lunch near Marienplatz. just south of Munich. If you’re without wheels. creator of Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle. you can easily explore some of the sights along the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road). whose wares you may want to purchase. You can bring a picnic or order a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. Munich is one of Germany’s top cultural capitals. You can dine near the parking area below Neuschwanstein. choose a museum to visit. and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Then. If you’re without a car. the town closest to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles. make your way to the famous Deutsches Museum. Special cog railways and cable cars can take you up and bring you back down. as Germany’s most popular tourist attraction. Tours of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castle take about one hour. Spend the night in Füssen. You need the entire morning to wander through the enormous Residenz in central Munich. fit in a stroll in the bucolic Englischer Garten. make your way to Füssen. you may want to see the priceless collection of old masters at the Alte Pinakotheke. which you can reach by streetcar.

the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. so when darkness falls you may want to attend an opera.severin-kuehn-berlin. the country’s parliamentary headquarters.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 41 If you have your car for a two-day rental. contact Severin+Kühn. Berlin is famed for its nightlife. sophisticated Berlin has endless things to do. Chapter 14 for Dresden. or a cabaret. western Berlin’s renowned boulevard. you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. The city has an excellent music scene. From either city. Here’s hoping your flight home departs sometime in the afternoon on Day 7. From Potsdamer Platz. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. www. check out Chapter 12 for Berlin and Potsdam. Cologne’s delicious beer). Settle into your hotel and then take one of the sightseeing bus tours of the city — otherwise you’ll see only a fraction of this enormous metropolis. call German Rail at % 11861). Stay overnight in Cologne and have dinner at one of the city’s famous beer halls (be sure to sample Kölsch. (By fast train. and Museum Ludwig. Leipzig. so you can take advantage of the morning by going over to the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) to see the world-famous bust of Egyptian queen Nefertiti. such as the Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). entirely devoted to 20th-century and contemporary art. and the Reichstag. displaying old and modern masters. a concert. you may be able to return the vehicle in Füssen. and Weimar. take one of the sleek. dedicated to the Romans who made Cologne one of their strategic forts nearly 2. On the morning of Day 6. Chapter 15 for .000 years ago. Then walk east down Unter den Linden to Museumsinsel (Museum Island).de). You can also take a sightseeing boat ride along the Rhine. make your way over to Potsdamer Platz. Enjoy the afternoon in this lively Rhine-side city by visiting the cathedral and one or two of its many fine museums. so come back later if the line is long. Then stroll down the Ku-Damm. the symbol of the city. After your tour. and stop in at the Pergamon Museum or the Altes Museum with their fantastic collections of antiquities.) You’ll see Cologne’s greatest sight — the enormous Gothic Dom (cathedral) — as you step out of the train station. the fastest train from Füssen takes about 7 hours. For detailed information on the cities and sights that I mention. West Side: Germany in Two Weeks What a treat — two weeks to take in the sights! This suggested itinerary makes a clockwise circuit of Germany. before making your way to the airport. too. To book a bus tour. The trip from Cologne is under 41⁄2 hours. East Side. or you can drive back to Munich and return it there. superfast trains to Berlin (the trains depart from the Cologne Hauptbahnhof. hop on the train and make your way to Köln (Cologne) for Day 5. for train information and schedules. Huge. Take the elevator up to the new dome on top of the Reichstag — the dome is open late. the new quarter where the Berlin Wall once stood. the trip from Munich takes about 51⁄2 hours. so you may want to see an opera or attend a concert.

and Chapter 18 for Heidelberg and Nuremberg. a beautiful neoclassical square. which was ruled by the Communists until 1990. visit one of Berlin’s great museums. Start at Potsdamer Platz.42 Part I: Introducing Germany Munich. on the Elbe River about two hours south of Berlin by train. Have something fun lined up for the evening: Berlin has three opera houses. the most famous boulevard in western Berlin. You can eat near the palace or back in Berlin. for lunch or to find a cafe for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). which displays the stunning bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. Dresden.severin-kuehn-berlin. the Residenzschloss. Eastern Berlin has numerous attractions: Make sure that you stop at the Gendarmenmarkt. Stop by the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church). On Day 4. the most famous boulevard in this part of the city. a vast collection of treasures accrued by Saxon rulers. Spend Day 2 on the western side of the city. Germany’s capital and largest city. you can walk to Friedrichstrasse. which includes a tour of Frederick the Great’s rococo palace and a walk through the landscaped grounds. In the afternoon. is one of the great art cities of Germany. Spend the morning of Day 3 at Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. so start the morning by taking one of the sightseeing bus tours. the most historic part of the city. www. Head over to the Charlottenburg neighborhood for a tour of Schloss (Palace) Charlottenburg and a stroll through the palace gardens. Berlin’s most famous park. is the starting point on Day 1 of your two-week tour of Deutschland. cabarets. a pre–World War I quarter that now features several smart cafes and shops. Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee. walk to the Brandenburg Gate and head east down Unter den Linden. and wander into the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas’ Quarter) before you head up to the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) to visit the Pergamon Museum and/or the Altes Museum. Plenty of entertainment options exist for the evening. you want to focus your attention on the Albertinum. an easy trip from Berlin by S-Bahn. the most famous is the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum). From Museumsinsel. You want to give yourself at least four hours for this excursion. countless bars and clubs. Chapter 16 for Bavaria and its the . left as a colossal ruin after the devastation of World War II. you see a different side of Germany (literally) in the eastern cities of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). three major symphony orchestras. then head over to the Reichstag and take the elevator up to the new dome for a view of the city. Berlin is an enormous city. Several museums are in and around the palace. contact Severin+Kühn. the upscale shopping street. to book one. In Dresden. or take the S-Bahn (the city’s system of elevated trains) to Hackescher Markt. Head back to the Kurfürstendamm (known as Ku-Damm). of course. such as the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) or the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). Berlin. variety shows. Afterward. and. Devote your afternoon to exploring eastern Berlin. Then spend a while strolling in the Tiergarten.

too. is one of Germany’s literary meccas. Thomas Church). filled with leafy parks and neoclassical buildings. Start your explorations at Marienplatz. you won’t want to miss seeing a performance at the Semper Opera House.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 43 new home of the famed treasury known as the Green Vault. a restored royal palace that is home to four museums. The city has two unusual museums that shed light on the GDR era: The Museum in der Runden Ecke documents the methods of the dreaded Stasi. and the Zwinger. Otherwise (or afterward). From Leipzig. Spend the night in Dresden. the most important being the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery). From April through September. Weimar was one of Germany’s great centers of art and culture during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. In 2005. Your destination for Day 7 is delightful Munich. the great German dramatist Friedrich Schiller.” With only two days. and the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) examines all aspects of life in the GDR from 1945 to 1989. Not far from the city center. the city’s main square. bustling city with a long musical tradition. Choose a museum you’d especially like to visit: Most visitors make the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters . you may want to take an excursion boat along the Elbe into the area known as Saxon Switzerland. or take the train to Munich. which reopened in 2006 after being painstakingly restored. From Dresden on Day 5. portions of which have been left much as they were in his lifetime. hop on a train for Leipzig. East Germany’s secret police. is the town’s most visited site. is the Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial). Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe’s House). the Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) moved into a building close to Marktplatz. the journey takes about five hours. Enjoy a dinner of regional food in the famous Auerbachs Keller. Make it a point to see the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). where he is buried. Stay overnight in 41⁄2-hour trips take place daily. you can visit the small Bauhaus Museum. your destination for Day 6. fast trains take less than an hour to reach Weimar. the next stop on this itinerary. today. If you love symphonic music. In the early 20th century. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and his friend. the town’s liveliest square. If you’re an opera lover. This small. and then head over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt to wander through this wonderland of an outdoor market. Leipzig is a busy. you have to make some decisions about what to see. Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster of the famous Thomaskirche (St. and the Bach Museum is dedicated to his life and works. lived here. the Bauhaus School of Art and Design operated in Weimar. on the site of a Nazi-era concentration camp. Weimar has its dark side. Germany’s “secret capital. Visit the scene of Duchess Anna Amalia’s glittering salons in the Wittumspalais. pretty city. 3. a “city palace” near Goethe’s house. only an hour away. a vaulted underground restaurant. be sure to reserve a seat to hear the worldfamous Gewandhaus Orchestra.

is one of Germany’s premier spa towns. Give yourself some leeway with time because the crowds can be dense. or taking a boat ride on the lake to the garden island of Mainau. swimming. You can also visit neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle. The area has no important museums. where Ludwig spent his childhood. You’ve no doubt heard about the Schwarzwald. The charming and lively university town of Freiburg is about three hours by train from Lindau. Freiburg’s lovely Münster (cathedral) and its surrounding square constitute the main sights in town. from Munich make your way to Füssen. about 11⁄2 hours farther north by train. If you have a car. If you have a car. Then. stay overnight in Füssen or return to Munich. visit the nearby Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). devoted to science and industry. valleys. but the Deutsches Museum. you may want to consider renting a car for the next four days. your destination on Day 11. 6. stroll in the lovely Englischer Garten and stop for a drink or a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. or Lake Constance. Spend the day strolling in the sun (if the sun cooperates).44 Part I: Introducing Germany Gallery) their top priority. Germany’s sunny southwestern corner comes as a surprise to many visitors. You need at least two hours to visit the entire complex. if the afternoon is fine. From Munich or Füssen. resort-oriented town offers fine hotels and restaurants. Take your pick of cities to stay in. At night. take in another museum. its hiking and recreational sports facilities. exploring the Bavarian Alps along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse (German Alpine Road). Here you find the Bodensee. or Black Forest. the country’s largest lake and one of the largest bodies of water in Europe. is one of the most popular museums in the country. Start Day 8 with a self-guided tour of the Residenz. and a famous casino. symphony.5km (4 miles) from the most famous tourist attraction in all of Germany: Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle. On Day 9. This wine town has vineyards nearby and yearly wine festivals. Some small Bavarian village with a cozy Gasthaus (guesthouse) may catch your fancy. This upscale. Stay overnight in Munich. beer gardens. theater. You have innumerable ways to spend the evening in this cultural mecca: opera. In Freiburg. and its cuckoo clocks. If you’re without a car. so just take it easy. Munich’s gigantic “in town” palace. Even if you’re driving from Füssen. By car or train. Stay overnight in Munich. . If you opt for Baden-Baden. many expensive shops. and clubs. you can continue on to Lindau. Lindau’s sunny charms are reminiscent of Italy. But first. sitting under an umbrella at a cafe. a world-famous baroque masterpiece. After lunch near Marienplatz. pop concerts. Baden-Baden. you can happily spend a few hours strolling through old streets lined by Bächle (little streams). beer halls. This scenic area of forested hills. travel time is about the same. but doing so is not essential. the trip to Lindau for Day 10 is about three hours by train. sample one of the city’s many entertainment options. enjoy a stroll through Füssen’s lovely historic quarter. and mountains in the southwestern corner of Germany is famed for its health resorts.

On Day 13. the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). (Alternatively. On Day 12. and fine Gothic churches. which covers the entire spectrum of German fine arts from its prehistoric beginnings to the present day. Hike or take the funicular train up the hillside to the famed Heidelberg Castle for a stunning view of the town and the river valley. . where your tour began. under two hours from Nuremberg. Find a cafe to sit and people-watch while you plan your next trip to Germany. As in many German cities. one of the most attractive towns in Germany. which is less than an hour by train from Baden-Baden or 21⁄2 to 3 hours from Freiburg. The Altstadt (Old Town) is where you want to stay and where you want to wander. On Day 14. formal restaurant awaiting the main course. a little more than two hours by train from Nuremberg. you can fly home from Frankfurt. at the ones that don’t. a picturesque area alongside the Pegnitz River. some aspects of traveling in Germany — taking a train. a 125-year-old mineralbath establishment. the entire Altstadt is a pedestrian zone. for example. The museum’s restaurant is one of the nicest places to dine in Heidelberg. but you can take a tour of some restored rooms. head back to Berlin. No kid I know wants to spend two hours wandering around a museum admiring old master paintings.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 45 be sure to “take the waters” at Friedrichsbad. And then. or from Munich. make your way to Heidelberg. just wander around without an itinerary. to catch your flight home. Stop in at the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate) for a look at Tilman Riemenschneider’s powerfully carved altarpiece. Some hotels let children stay for free in their parents’ room. You face difficulties in the basic areas of food choices and sightseeing options. as it’s known in English). Everyone seems to love this ancient university town on the Neckar River.) Sit back and enjoy the scenery. Give yourself at least two hours to visit the marvelous Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). you’re in Nürnberg (or Nuremberg. Then take a relaxing boat ride down the Neckar. When it comes time to eat. If you have time in any of these cities before your flight departs. The castle is mostly in ruins. you can pay a few euros more and request an extra bed. Luckily. You find squares with lovely fountains. hop on the Bahn (train) in Heidelberg and in 31⁄2 to 4 hours. The train ride from Nuremberg is about 51⁄2 hours. or visiting a castle — appeal to kids just because of the novelty. or seated in a quiet. especially on a warm evening when your table is in the courtyard near the fountain. the experience takes about 31⁄2 hours. if you’re in the mood. stop at the Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) for a glimpse of the toys for which this city has long been famous. Discovering Germany with Kids Face it: Traveling with kids isn’t easy. I slant this very general itinerary toward outdoor activities and give other options only when they seem relevant.

a sunny flower-filled resort town that sits on its own small island in the Bodensee. the other kind are not. the city’s main square. Good skiing and ice-skating are available all winter.720 ft. but some of them are shorter and easy enough for children. Germany’s mostvisited tourist attraction perches on a rocky spur that requires a good uphill hike to reach. Here you’re going to ascend the Zugspitze. Later. The forested hills all around Neuschwanstein and neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle are full of excellent hiking paths.). or sit in the famous beer garden (nonalcoholic refreshments available for the kids). dance in the meadows. cafes. and some intriguing buildings. and 500-acre Nymphenburg Park is grand and inviting. Just remember one thing: Wellbehaved children are smiled upon in Germany. you can head over there in the afternoon. On Day 3. you’ll also find American-style fast-food restaurants in all midsize and large cities). head over to the kid-friendly Deutsche Museum. Schloss Nymphenburg is on the top of your list. “Mad” Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle. The entire inner city is a car-free pedestrian zone where you and your kids can stroll with ease. or even outdoor food stands (yes. with easy access and reduced rates for kids. By car or train make your way to Lindau. you may want to take a train or subway over to the Englischer Garten (English Garden).960m/9. Stay overnight in Garmisch. French-style gardens behind the palace and an English-style park with quiet meadows. on the spire of the Rathaus. Alternatively. and then drive or take a bus to Neuschwanstein. the best outdoor market in Germany and a great place to have a casual lunch. You also can reach the castle by bus or horse-drawn cab. Drive or take the train to Füssen on Day 4. The area around . Bodensee (Lake Constance) is your destination for Day 5. Public transportation is a priority in every German city. Most hikes take an energetic four to five hours. You can find plenty of outdoor cafes around Marienplatz. the area around Garmisch-Partenkirchen is magnificent hiking country. On Day 2.46 Part I: Introducing Germany look for casual bistros. while there. A cog railway and a cable car take you up and bring you back — a fascinating treat for kids. one of the largest and most beautiful city parks in Europe. Stay overnight in Füssen and explore the charming old town on foot. including an 18th-century swimming pool and a baroque hunting lodge. The Schloss (palace) is a breeze to get to (it’s right in the city on the streetcar line). If you didn’t make it to the Deutsches Museum the day before. be sure to catch the Glockenspiel show at 11 a. forested paths. Germany’s highest peak (2.m. It’s loaded with interesting stuff for kids and adults. you can rent a car or take the train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps south of Munich. where you can wander along the tree-shaded walks. Right next to Marienplatz is the Viktualienmarkt. with formal. Spend Day 1 in Munich. If you’re a dedicated hiker. the largest science and technology museum in the world. The view from the summit is — what else? — spectacular. so you and the kids can easily walk everywhere. Lindau is virtually car-free.

) summit of a peak called Seebuck. You may want to incorporate this four-day itinerary into a longer trip.600 acres of vineyards. On this drive. a famous mile-high peak with spectacular views of the Rhine plain. more than any other city in Germany. From Freiburg you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Schwarzwald. Rheingau Rieslings rank among the best white wines made anywhere. Weinkost is another wine-tasting event in mid-August. The Mosel Valley. you can stop at two Black Forest lakes.450m (4. your headquarters in the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) on Day 6. You can bike along the shore or relax on an excursion boat ride to the island of Mainau. The trip begins and ends in Frankfurt. you can explore the neighboring wine country. Ride the train or drive north to Freiburg. The young. Freiburg. is surrounded by 1. wine has been produced since Roman times.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 47 Bodensee is Germany’s sunniest corner. On the last weekend in June. You can drive through this area on a daytrip from Cologne. you can hop on a train on Day 1 and be in Freiburg in about two hours. Or you may want to rent a car in Frankfurt for the duration of the trip. with stops for short hikes and cable-car rides to the top of the Belchen. a lively university town in the Black Forest. For more information. From Frankfurt airport. Or you can take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz. If you’re traveling by train. a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine between the towns of Biebrich and Bingen. is another scenic winegrowing region and your destination on Day 3. For a great meal with regional wines. The train trip from Freiburg takes about four hours. Most of the grapes grow on the warm lower slopes of the nearby Kaiserstühl (Emperor’s Throne). a plant-lover’s paradise. southwest of Cologne. and the lake is clean enough for swimming. In the Rheingau wine district. see Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee and Chapter 19 for Cologne and sights along the Rhine. Spend the night in Lindau. How about that — the kids actually had a good time! Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers When you raise a glass of wine in Germany. a volcanic massif. Head to Cologne on the River Rhine for Day 2. The valley follows the course of . I suggest that you rent a car for just one day. the toast often is a simple “Prosit!” (pronounced prohst). the Schluchsee and Titisee.750-ft. a scenic winegrowing region. From Cologne. the city celebrates with a four-day wine festival that includes public tastings. and to the 1. by car or boat. On Day 7 make your way back to Frankfurt or Munich for the trip home. This itinerary takes you to the wine regions in western Germany. the oldest inn in Freiburg. dine at Zum Roten Bären. light Silvaner wine is an ideal accompaniment to Spargel (white asparagus) in May.

cruises depart daily from Koblenz to Cochem. make your way back to Frankfurt on Day 4. which takes place the first week in June. a picturesque wine village surrounded by vineyards and a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. Wherever you go. Beautiful scenery and fine wines make this a prime area for leisurely exploration. both a hotel and a wine restaurant. celebrates the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. you can continue your tasting tour of Germany. . Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. The easiest way to enjoy a cruise down the Mosel River is to take a train to Koblenz. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). From Cochem. If you have a few more days. Cologne. look for the local Weinstube (wine tavern). a convivial spot to sample Germany’s many fine vintages.48 Part I: Introducing Germany the Mosel River for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. The half-timbered Alte Thorschenke in Cochem. or Freiburg. Between late April and the third week in October.

Part II Planning Your Trip to Germany .

In Chapter 9. I discuss all the various accommodations options. and offering suggestions for landing the best room at the best price. or traveler’s checks. money — so you have an approximate idea of what things cost and how to use ATMs. I get into the nittygritty of Geld — that is. I load Chapter 10 with information about getting a passport. plane. outlining the kinds of hotels and guesthouses that you’ll find. guided and package tours. credit cards. . I offer advice and tips for visitors with special needs and interests: families traveling with children.T In this part . In Chapter 6. gay and lesbian travelers. I go over the transportation options for getting you to Germany. . buying travel and medical insurance. and Jewish travelers. and how to get the best fare. and adhering to airport security measures. I tell you about traveling through Germany by train. including information on which airlines fly into Germany. using cellphones and staying connected by e-mail in Germany. seniors. car. In Chapter 5. In Chapter 7. his part helps you with the practical details of planning your trip to Germany. . In Chapter 8. and boat. explaining what hotel rack rates are.

meals. your trip to Germany — even if you visit Munich and/or Berlin. I tell you about flying to Germany and help you with some strategies for finding . and so on. Although you may think a trip to Germany is prohibitively expensive because of the transatlantic flight. the two German airports with several direct international flights. You may have heard that Germany is an expensive country — but just how expensive? What does a hotel in Munich cost? How much does a train ticket cost for travel from Berlin down to Bavaria. the two most expensive German cities — can actually cost less than a trip to New York. or Los Angeles. you want to go to Germany. you often can find bargain airfares to Frankfurt and Munich. To come up with a workable figure. But can you really afford the trip? At this point. Planning Your Budget Planning a budget for your trip to Germany isn’t as difficult as you may think. you need to break down your trip into its various components: airfare.Chapter 5 Managing Your Money In This Chapter ᮣ Planning a realistic budget for your trip ᮣ Changing your dollars into euros ᮣ Using ATMs. traveler’s checks. meaning money). and credit cards ᮣ Dealing with theft and loss ᮣ Paying and recouping German sales tax ᮣ Knowing when — and how — to tip S o. transportation while there. a financial reality check is in order. Transportation costs Your first big outlay is going to be for airfare. I provide vital clues on how to create a realistic budget that works for you. You’re excited and eager to pack. San Francisco. So this chapter is all about Geld (pronounced gelt. hotels. entertainment. In Chapter 6. for instance? And how much is a meal in a nice restaurant after you get there? This chapter points you toward all the answers. Adding everything up. In the following sections.

.raileurope.52 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the cheapest airline fares. you can walk almost everywhere. You can order them through a travel agent or by calling Rail Europe at % 888-382-7245 in the United States. Munich. Many larger cities have special passes that include public transportation and free or reduced-price admission to various attractions. Frankfurt. that in some areas. I talk more about these cost-cutting train passes and the popular Eurailpass in Chapter 7. 800-361-7245 in Canada. Keep in mind. having a car makes exploration of the countryside much easier. I mention these moneysaving cards in the city sections of this guide whenever they’re available and such as Bavaria and the Black Forest. however. The passes make getting around German cities fairly inexpensive (approximately $6–$8 per day). but so is finding flights that cost a whole lot more. The historic inner-city area of German cities nearly always is called the Altstadt. If you don’t want to walk. The next transportation expense to consider is dependent upon how you plan to travel around Germany after you arrive. Based on my own experience. You can also tour by train throughout the whole of Germany without ever renting a car. Hamburg. From New York or Boston. If you’re planning to travel around Germany by train. Finding flights that cost less is quite possible. and easy to use. If you’re traveling by train and want to see some of Germany’s great castles. because city centers are so compact and close to the train stations. you can save money by buying a German Rail Pass before you leave home. The same cities also have light-rail or aboveground trains called the S-Bahn and a system of trams or streetcars and buses.200 during high season. you may need to take a local bus or taxi from the nearest town (Füssen. That saves you a bundle. including advance purchase.S. or by going online to www. In smaller towns and cities of Germany. or Old Town. you probably can find flights for $400 to $800 in low season and $700 to $1.000 in high season. you can hop on a bus or tram. convenient. round-trip fare from a major city on the West Coast of the U. Berlin. for Neuschwanstein) to the castle. U-Bahns are fast. or underground train). Here’s some good news: You won’t need to rent a car in any German city because public transportation is so good. and Cologne all have subway systems called the U-Bahn (short for Untergrundbahn. such as Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. Please note that these are ballpark figures for economy-class seats found by using every cost-saving trick in the book. I can tell you that finding a nonstop. to Frankfurt is possible for about $600 to $900 during low season and $800 to $1. Special reduced-price transportation passes are good for a full day (Tageskarten) or longer on all forms of public transportation.

you hit the high end of 226€ ($282) and up. you’ll find that hotels throughout Germany are reasonably priced (and practically a bargain when compared to prices in other European countries). eating at top restaurants. the rates at inexpensive hotels in Munich or Berlin. traditional German food also is ganz schmackhaftig (very tasty). however. generally are less than 125€ ($156). For the recommendations in this guide. and expensive hotels cost from 176€ to 225€ ($220–$281). In nearly every town and village throughout Germany. for instance. After that. offer bed. Food in Germany often is characterized as heavy.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 53 Lodging expenses A large piece of your budget will be the cost of your hotel or other accommodations. and so on). and elsewhere offer special fixed-price meals that can be real bargains. no matter where you are. a beer hall. is going to cost. Nearly all hotels throughout Germany (except for boutique or 5-star luxury hotels) include a buffet breakfast as part of the room rate. Moderate hotels run from 126€ to 175€ ($158–$218). hotel rates are lower. however. including breakfast. In recent years. you can find a Ratskeller (restaurant beneath a town hall). depending on their respective government-appointed categories (1-star. . Make sure to ask about special deals wherever you stay. Overall. a Weinstube (restaurant where wine is the primary beverage served). however. the price drops so dramatically that you can stay in a double room at a five-star luxury hotel for less than 175€ ($219) per night. lunch. generally from 80€ to 150€ ($100–$188) per double room per night. Of course. and a full dinner at bargain prices. As a general rule. isn’t the only cuisine you’ll find in Germany. But you can still find plenty of opportunities to drop a king’s ransom for a hotel. See Chapter 8 for information on what to expect in each price range and for a discussion of your lodging options and how to get the best rate. That cost will be higher in Munich and Berlin than anywhere else in Germany. Although that may be true. Traditional food. giving a reliable average is difficult. large cities like Berlin and Munich have emerged as international food capitals. but you’ll find that many of the best restaurants in Berlin. you can always find a double room in a good hotel in Germany for less than 150€ ($188) a night and sometimes for less than 100€ ($125) a night. hotels offer special price breaks for weekends (Wochenende) and during the summer (generally July and Aug). Throughout the country. In some cases. especially in some of the truly elegant five-star properties. But because rates vary from one hotel to the next. Munich. Many hotels in the Bavarian countryside. Outside of Munich and Berlin. 2-star. or some other kind of nonfancy restaurant where you can dine inexpensively and well and where you can enjoy your meal among the locals. breakfast. the major cities.

and back again. In some locations. Munich. depending on the duration of the trip. Only at luxury hotels do you have to pay extra for breakfast — usually 18€ to 22€ ($22–$27) — but the buffet breakfast invariably is fabulous. Germany’s highest mountain. you can expect to pay from 35€ to 50€ ($44–$62) per person per day (assuming your hotel rate includes breakfast). The major cities — Berlin. Fortunately. Finding a museum that costs more than 8€ ($10) is rare. you can often get a reducedprice admission. Throughout most of Germany. Admission to Neuschwanstein. Shopping and nightlife costs Shopping and entertainment are the most flexible parts of your budget. unless you splurge on really high-priced restaurants. on what you want to see.54 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany As with hotels. Kurfürstendamm or Unter den Linden. and you can hit the sack right after dinner instead of going to a concert or dancing at a club. the Bavarian castle that is Germany’s top attraction. As a general rule. When eating lunch and dinner at moderately priced restaurants in Berlin.75–$6. the cost for adults is 45€ ($56). of course. sightseeing in Germany is fairly inexpensive. and you’re content with coffee and a roll at a stand-up counter (or a Starbucks). for example — sell special “Welcome” cards that get you into several museums for a reduced rate. And some of the top sights — such as the Reichstag in Berlin or the Frauenkirche and Englischer Garten in Munich — are free.25) round-trip. generally around 5€ ($6. a buffet breakfast nearly always is included in your hotel cost. But remember. Sightseeing expenses Your budget for admission fees depends.50–$9) anywhere in the country. Hamburg.25) for admission to museums and local attractions outside of the big cities. City sightseeing tours by bus cost from 10€ to 24€ ($13–$30). food is more expensive in big cities like Berlin and Munich. the top attraction is a cable car that can whisk you to the top of a famous peak for a spectacular view. Strolling down Berlin’s great avenues. if you’re a senior or a student. costs only 8€ ($10). expect to pay about 3.50€ to 7€ ($4. is kostenlos (free). You know what . Sightseeing boat excursions typically are 8€ to 15€ ($10–$19). expect to pay from 3€ to 5€ ($2. exploring by foot in almost any German town is a good way to soak up the local culture free of charge. dinner for two at a good. or viewing the Brandenburg Gate. expect your daily food cost to be about 25€ to 40€ ($31–$50). In fact. If you eat breakfast at a cafe rather than your hotel. and that doesn’t include beer or wine. The most expensive ride is to the top of the Zugspitze. You don’t have to buy anything at all. Afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) sets you back about 7€ or 8€ ($9 or $10) anywhere in Germany. Outside of Berlin or Munich. In addition. mid-priced restaurant averages about 28€ ($35) including beer. Most cable cars cost much less.

at Die Quadriga ($$$$) Dinner for one. at Noodle ($–$$) Cafe meal for one at Café Silberstein ($) Sausage at a stand-up snack stand ($) 115€–150€ ($144–$187) 65€–97€ ($111–$121) 60€ ($75) 30€ ($37) 15€ ($19) 10€ ($13) 3€ ($3.50) 5.25) 330€–490€ ($412–$612) Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by bus Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by taxi One-way U-Bahn (subway) fare within central Berlin Tageskarte one-day public transportation pass for two zones Double room without breakfast at Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) Double room with breakfast at Brandenburger Hof ($$$$) 245€–295€ ($306–$369) Double room with breakfast at Hotel Domus ($$–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Arco Hotel ($–$$) Dinner for one. Flip through the shopping and nightlife options of each destination chapter. cover charges are rarely more than 5€ ($6.10€ ($2. but drinks other than beer can be pricey.75) 6€–8€ ($7.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 55 you want. Keep in mind that the hotel rates I quote here are rack rates. or tavern .25). budget accordingly.50) 20€ ($25) 2. Table 5-1 Item What Things Cost in Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 2. bar. and an opera ticket in either Berlin or Munich anywhere from 10€ to 80€ ($13–$100). at Marjellchen ($$–$$$) Meal for one. Berlin.50€ ($3. Tables 5-1 and 5-2 give you an idea of what things typically cost in Berlin and the rest of the country. excluding wine.40) (continued) Kaffee und kuchen at a cafe or stand-up coffee shop ($) Large glass of beer at a cafe. especially. If anything strikes you as something you can’t do without.10€ ($2. so you may want to check out the club scene while you’re there.25). excluding wine. At mid-price and luxury hotels you can almost always find a lower rate that the one listed here simply by checking the hotel’s Web site and booking in advance. excluding wine. the highest undiscounted rate charged by a hotel. a glass of good German wine about 5€ ($6. (Keep in mind that a small beer sets you back about 2.50–$10) 3.50€ ($4.80€ ($7.10). is a late-night city.

ticket good for same-day admission to several other museums Admission to the Altes or Pergamon Museum (one ticket good for both on same day) Admission to Charlottenburg Palace and palace museums Opera ticket Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 23€–75€ ($29–$94) Table 5-2 Item What Things Cost Outside Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 50€ ($62)/34€ ($40) 151€ ($189)/96€ ($120) 190€–215€ ($237–$269) 90€–170€ ($112–$212) 86€–92€ ($107–$115) 139€–282€ ($174–$352) 57€–75€ ($71–$94) 12€ ($15) 35€–43€ ($44–$54) 20€ ($25) 8€ ($10) First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Dresden First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Munich Double room with breakfast at Der Kleine Prinz. excluding wine. excluding beer. Munich ($) Admission to Neuschwanstein Castle. at Café Schinkelwache.56 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Table 5-1 (continued) Item Admission to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). at Zum Röten Bären. excluding wine. at Der Kleine Prinz. Baden-Baden ($$$$) Lunch for one. Dresden ($) Fixed-price dinner for one. Munich ($$$–$$$$) Fixed-price dinner for one. at Hofbräuhaus. Baden-Baden ($$$–$$$$) Double room with breakfast at Burg Hotel. Rothenburg ob der Tauber ($–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Hotel-Garni Brugger. including one glass of beer. Bavaria . Freiburg ($$$) Dinner for one. Lindau ($) Double room with breakfast at Eden-Hotel-Wolf.

ground transportation. which means more beds are available in German hotels. Munich Adult/child admission to Deutsches Museum (Science and Industry). economy car 57 10€ ($13) 4€ ($5) Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8. ߜ Always ask for discount rates. If you can travel at off-season times (Oct–Nov and Jan–Mar). When you inquire about airfares. AARP.50€ ($10)/3€ ($3. Munich Opera ticket. and even some sightseeing by making just one call to a travel agent. Bargain Alert icons (like the one in the left margin) highlight money-saving tips and/or great deals. which are peak travel months for Germans but often a time of lower hotel prices. Because more rooms are available. hotel. be sure to ask whether you can get a cheaper rate by flying on a specific day. you’ll find hotel prices are as much as 20 percent less than during peak months. airline. Baden-Baden Tank of unleaded gas. Dresden Complete bath and massage treatment at Friedrichsbad. you can book airfare. ߜ Try a package tour. Munich. For popular destinations like Frankfurt and Munich.75) 25€–80€ ($31–$100) 29€ ($36) 5. Semper Opera House. Sound odd? Not really. airfares vary depending on the day of the week and even the hour you fly. or Berlin.000€ ($6. Here are some additional cost-cutting strategies: ߜ Go during the off season.250) 70€ ($87) Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun Throughout this book. Wednesday. or packager — and you’ll pay much less than if you tried to put the trip together yourself (see Chapter 6). In general. you may find cheaper flights to Frankfurt. Germans tend to travel outside of Germany on their holidays. The same is true for July and August. Baden-Baden Average losses at gambling tables. frequent-flier plans. Membership in AAA. or other groups may qualify you for discounts on . If you can travel on a Tuesday. ߜ Travel on off days of the week. prices go down. or Thursday. Dresden Admission to Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery).Chapter 5: Managing Your Money Item Admission to Zwinger Palace (all museums). Generalizing about airfares is difficult because the entire industry is changing all the time.

cuckoo clocks. Notes are . Germany’s unit of currency changed from the Deutsche Mark to the euro. 10¢. many hotels in Germany offer special price breaks on weekends or midweek during the off season. that contains most of the attractions and is within walking distance of the train station. you get to know the city and its inhabitants more intimately. (See Chapter 8 for some recommended Web sites. do without the T-shirts.) ߜ Try expensive restaurants at lunch rather than dinner. 2¢. midweek. Coins come in denominations of 1¢. and you can explore at a slower pace. you save a bundle by not taking two rooms. Attractions within Germany usually offer a lower admission rate for seniors. Bavarian hats. children. car rentals. and the trinkets sold at major tourist attractions. First-class train tickets generally cost about one-third more than standard second-class tickets. 1€. ߜ Ask about weekend. If you’re worried about your budget. ߜ Skip the souvenirs. and students with ID. Your photographs and memories make the best mementos of your trip. Regardless of where you travel in Germany. ߜ Travel second class. Each usually has a historic Altstadt. As a bonus. always look for value-added fixed-price menus. A good pair of walking shoes can save you money on taxis and other local transportation. hotel rooms. beer steins. buying your local train tickets in Germany is cheaper. That’s what the Germans do. One euro is divided into one hundred cents. ߜ Ask if your kids can stay in your room with you. If you’re headquartering in one city and making side trips to nearby towns. The amount of money you save with a rail pass depends on how often you use it and how far you go. and the menu often includes many of the dinnertime specialties. ߜ Know the advantages and disadvantages of buying a rail pass before you leave home. Most German cities are compact and eminently walkable. and 2€. and off-season special offers.58 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany plane tickets. Sometimes these special rates are offered as romantic getaway packages and include dinner and a glass of wine. or Old Town. and guided tours booked before you go. Handling Money In January 2002. At most top restaurants in Berlin and Munich. 20¢. Even if you have to pay a few extra euros for a rollaway bed. key chains. 50¢. A room with two double beds usually doesn’t cost any more than one with a queensize bed. prices at lunch are lower than those at dinner. Surfing the Web is the best way to find out about special packages at specific hotels. And many hotels won’t charge you the additional-person rate when that person is pint-size and related to you. 5¢. ߜ Walk a lot. To encourage year-round tourism.

20.xe. call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to check with your bank or look in the newspaper to find out the current rate. The exchange rate. Charging ahead with credit cards Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses.) When you’re about to leave on your trip. As with any unfamiliar currency. 100. is the rate you get when you use your own currency to buy euros. You also can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs. if more than $10. and outside banks. you find 24-hour ATMs (often called Geldautomat) in airports. 50. the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own ATM fee. It usually takes five to seven business days. If you’ve forgotten are the most popular networks. the amount you can withdraw must be in a checking (not a savings) account.S. and weights according to and PLUS (% 800-8437587. many banks now assess a 1 percent to 3 percent “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency). 1€ = $1. and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. 10. provided you know your PIN. Using ATMs and carrying cash The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an automated teller machine (ATM). But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you . In general. In addition. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad. www. Make sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home. Cirrus (% 800-424-7787. 200. euros take a bit of getting used to. Each bank-note denomination has its own color.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 59 available in 5. and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. At some banks. I use this approximate exchange rate for prices in this book. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time your card is used at a different bank’s ATM. or didn’t even know you had one. then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. (If the U. train stations. You also can check currency conversions online at www. and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. I round it off to the nearest nickel. shapes. In German cities. The coins have different sizes. price is less than $10. and 500 denominations. which fluctuates daily. though some banks provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. check the back of your ATM card for the network to which your bank belongs. to the nearest dollar. www.25.

You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling % 800-221-7282.000. Cashing traveler’s checks is more timeconsuming and can end up costing more because you must go to a bank or money-exchange service and pay a check-cashing fee. In smaller German towns and villages. checks come in denominations of $20. Currencyexchange windows in airports and rail stations generally are open daily from 6 a. and $1.m. and American Express offices. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip.60 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany factor in things like high ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates and service fees. a card may not work for any number of reasons. Changing your currency in Germany You can easily change cash or traveler’s checks by using a currency-exchange service called a Geldwechsel or bureau de change. you can always call the card’s toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused — a good reason to carry the phone number with you. Toting traveler’s checks These days. Call % 800-732-1322 for information. traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that enable you to withdraw (usually for a fee) small amounts of cash as needed. many tourist information offices. $50.m. You pay a service charge ranging from 1 percent to 4 percent.m. Some credit-card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges. $50. Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the service charge. $500. $500. to 1 p. post offices countrywide. any branch of a major bank. AAA members can get Visa checks for a $9. and (for cardholders only) $1.5 percent and 2 percent. so having a backup is the smart way to go. many pensions (B&Bs) with one to three guest rooms operate on a cash-only basis.m. and 2:30 to 4 p. . Even if you don’t call your credit-card company in advance.m. Call % 800-223-9920 for a location near you. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. $100. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. to 10 p.95 fee at most AAA offices or by calling % 866-339-3378. These services are available in German airports. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide and at several other banks. Banks generally are open weekdays from 8:30 a. The service charge ranges between 1. all major rail stations. as do some restaurants.000. $100. American Express offers denominations of $20.

www. You can find addresses for American Express offices throughout Germany at www. The three major if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID. Hamburg. www. If you need emergency cash during the weekend. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (% 800-766-0008. Most credit-card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen. American Express has offices in Berlin. If your credit card gets lost or stolen while you’re in Germany. www. you can have money wired to you via Western Union (% 800-325-6000. and file a report at the nearest police precinct. transunion. Cologne. Find Citibank branches in Berlin. You can avoid paying a second commission fee by using American Express traveler’s checks and cashing them at an American Express office. call the toll-free number directory at % 800-5551212.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 61 If you choose to carry traveler’s checks. Hamburg. placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. Citibank customers using ATMs at German branches of Citibank don’t pay additional withdrawal You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers. . and TransUnion (% 800-680-7289. and Munich. especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. Cologne. and Munich. Your credit-card company or insurer may require a police-report number or record of the loss.equifax. call the following numbers: ߜ American Express % 954-503-8850 (collect) ߜ MasterCard % 0800/819-1040 (toll-free) ߜ Visa % 0800/811-8440 (toll-free) or 417-581-9994 (collect) For other credit cards. Dresden.citibank. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately. Heidelberg. among other cities. For addresses of Citibanks in Germany. Finally. the airline may allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed. Leipzig. when all banks and American Express offices are go online to www. Frankfurt. Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet. www. Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet Be sure to contact all your credit-card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. Leipzig. call your airline and explain the situation. be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in case they’re stolen or lost.experian. Experian (% 888-3973742. they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or

have the voucher stamped by German Customs to confirm that the goods have been exported. (The general hotel and restaurant prices in this book include VAT. you can add 5 percent to 10 percent to your bill. you can get a VAT refund on purchases made in Germany (excluding hotel and restaurant bills). When you make a qualifying purchase. Then. This hefty percentage already is figured into the total prices of consumer goods and hotel and restaurant bills. Otherwise. redeem the voucher for cash (euros or dollars) at a Europe Tax-Free Shopping window. located at all major airports. and you can’t avoid paying it.) This tax isn’t a hidden expense. which must be completed by the store and must have a copy of your sales receipt attached to it. you receive a tax-free voucher.62 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Taking Taxes into Account Germany’s version of a sales tax. and railroad stations. To receive a refund.25 per successful hail). Most stores have a minimum amount that you must spend to qualify for the refund. Before checking your luggage upon your departure from Germany.25 per bag carried) and doormen who hail you a cab (1€/$1. border crossings. In restaurants. of course. . called the Mehrwertsteuer (abbreviated MWST) or value-added tax (abbreviated VAT). If you’re not a resident of the European Union. unless. A Tip about Tipping As a general rule. or round up to the next euro. you’re staying in an expensive hotel with porters who carry your bags (1€/$1. amounts to 16 percent. Germany isn’t a country where you must tip excessively. service charges are included in the bill. ferry ports. if the service has been very good. shop at stores displaying a Tax-Free Shopping sign.

C. Flying into Frankfurt Frankfurt airport. Stuttgart. Dallas/Fort Worth. and Washington. Amsterdam. I discuss getting you to Germany. Germany’s national carrier (now partnered with United Airlines and Air Canada). Newark. that is). Boston. Miami. but direct flights from the United States fly only into Frankfurt. The following airlines offer direct flights: ߜ Lufthansa. and Australia. In this chapter. or London. these routes require a change of planes — usually in Frankfurt. . What are your options for direct. has direct flights to Frankfurt from Atlanta. is Germany’s main international hub. Philadelphia. nonstop flights? How can you save money on your flight (and your hotel)? What are the pros and cons of taking an escorted tour? You find answers to your basic travel questions here. but if you’re coming from the United States. New York JFK. and from Toronto and Vancouver. Detroit. Canada. Paris. Berlin (one flight only). Germany has several airports. Chicago. an airport is called a Flughafen (floog-haf-en). you’re going to need to find a way to hop across that little puddle called the Atlantic. the United Kingdom. Munich. Los Angeles. San Francisco. D. Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where In Germany. called Flughafen Frankfurt Main. Copenhagen.. You also can fly to Cologne. Portland (Oregon). Houston. and other cities in Germany. See the appendix at the back of this book for a list of the main international carriers with direct flights into Germany from the United States. Nuremberg.Chapter 6 Getting to Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Deciding which German city to fly into ᮣ Saving on airfare and booking online ᮣ Arriving in Germany by train or boat ᮣ Joining an escorted tour ᮣ Finding out how a package tour can save you money N ow that you’ve decided to visit Deutschland (Germany. and Düsseldorf.

Although no direct flights are scheduled from the U. this airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world (completely accessible for the disabled). From Berlin. and Miami. and Washington. D. ߜ Qantas flies to Frankfurt from Melbourne and Sydney. Direct flights also are scheduled from most major European cities. and you’re close to Hamburg and the northern Hanseatic cities (see Chapter 13). D. Chicago. and San Francisco. ߜ Delta Air Lines has daily nonstops from Newark and Atlanta. Leipzig. hop on a train. See Chapter 11 for a complete description of Berlin’s airports. and British Airways flies nonstop from London. especially Dresden. Delta currently is the only airline that flies direct to Berlin from New York. Minneapolis/St. See Chapter 15 for more about flying into Munich.C. Australia. located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. Lufthansa flies nonstop to Munich from Newark. The airport has its own train station. I give you more specific information about how to get into the city from the airport. Chicago. which is quite small but has easy public transportation into central Berlin. Delta flies nonstop from Atlanta. ߜ United Airlines offers nonstop service to Frankfurt from Chicago and Washington.. and be off to your first destination. In each city section of this guide. and Weimar (see all in Chapter 14). Flights to other cities in Germany from Frankfurt rarely take more than 11⁄2 hours. . Paul. JFK. so you can fly in. is Germany’s second-largest airport. ߜ British Airways flies direct to Frankfurt from London. ߜ Munich: Franz Josef Strauss International Airport.C. ߜ Cologne: Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn is a good spot to land whenever you’re planning to tour western Germany and the Rhineland wine country. Boston. but you probably will fly into Tegel. Excursion boats leave from Cologne for trips on the Rhine and other German rivers (see Chapter 19). Chicago. ߜ Berlin: Berlin has two airports. Flying into other German airports Here’s a brief rundown of other major airports in Germany and some of the airlines that fly into them. Opened in 1992. see Chapter 20. British Airways and British Midland fly direct to Cologne from the United Kingdom. For more information on the Frankfurt airport.S. you can easily reach other cities in eastern Germany by train. ߜ Northwest Airlines (partnered with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines) flies nonstop to Frankfurt from Boston.64 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ American Airlines has nonstop service to Frankfurt from Dallas/ Fort Worth.

and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety has excellent fares worldwide. which tend to take place in seasons of low travel volume: October. ).com) (% 800/TRAV-800. . and yet prices can vary by hundreds of dollars. a coach seat is a coach seat is a . ߜ Hamburg: Direct flights to Flughafen Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel are scheduled from most major European cities. Getting the best airfare Competition among the major U. Bucket-shop tickets usually are nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties. reaching the Rhine Valley is easy. ELTExpress (Flights. but you can’t beat the prices. or Thurs). planning ahead pays.1800flycheap. particularly to Europe. Aer Lingus flies nonstop from Dublin. and you’re willing to travel midweek (Tues.S. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. FlyCheap (% 800-FLY-CHEAP [800-359-2432]. . Consolidators. Delta offers service from Atlanta via Paris. Wed. www. STA Travel (% 800-781-4040. are great sources for international tickets. Business travelers who need the flexibility of being able to buy their tickets at the last minute and changing their itineraries at a moment’s notice — and who want to get home before the weekend — pay a premium is owned by package-holiday . such as Frankfurt and Munich. Obviously. These fares have advance-purchase requirements and date-of-travel restrictions.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 65 ߜ Düsseldorf: Although I don’t cover Düsseldorf in this guidebook (the closest city that I cover is Cologne in Chapter 19). also known as bucket shops. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections. From Düsseldorf. known as the full fare. Lufthansa and Continental offer direct flights from Newark. but they often can’t beat the Every airline offers virtually the same product (basically. you nevertheless can use the airport in Düsseldorf as an alternative to Cologne. often as high as 50 percent to 75 percent of the ticket price. and January through March in Germany. www. November. but none arrive directly from the United States. The airlines also periodically hold sales in which they lower the prices on their most popular routes. stay overnight Saturday.eltexpress. airlines is unlike that of any other industry. As you plan your vacation. the world’s leader in student travel. you can qualify for the least-expensive price — usually a fraction of the full fare. British Midland has flights from London. If you can book your ticket far in advance. offers good fares for travelers of all ages. www. keep your eyes open for these sales.

use an opaque fare service like Priceline ( consumers have never had more options.hotwire. U. and Orbitz (www. given your most common routes. Expedia (www. (Canadian travelers need to try www.travelocity. of those With more than 70 mileage awards programs on the market. but it does entitle you to better or Hotwire (www. Booking your flight online The “big three” online travel agencies. often with a mysterious change of planes en route. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline Web sites or check megasites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute and www. site59. faster response to phone is based in Montreal and leverages the Canadian-dollar exchange rate for low fares. Of the smaller travel agency Web sites. Consider which airlines have hubs in the airport nearest you. It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once” but in reality beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites do. Expedia and Travelocity also will send you an e-mail notification whenever a cheap fare to your favorite destination becomes and prompter service if your luggage is stolen or your flight is canceled or delayed. which have the most advantageous alliances. consult Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer ( frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday in the U.priceline. Air Tickets Direct (% 888-858-8884. Investigate the program details of your favorite airlines before you sink points into any one. and. residents can go for expedia. Both offer rock-bottom prices in exchange for traveling on a mystery airline at a mysterious time of day.expedia. Most are valid for travel only that weekend. but some can be booked weeks or months in advance.S. such as Smarter Travel (smartertravel. SideStep (www.sidestep. The mystery airlines all are major.airtickets direct. And you don’t have to fly to earn Most of these deals are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased online. so shopping around is wise.K. For last-minute trips. well-known carriers — and the possibility of being sent from New York or if you want to change your seat. sell most air tickets bought on the Internet.) Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same flights. Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a in Europe often have better deals than the major-label Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany megalith MyTravel and has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. www. Travelocity (www. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage. com). Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the and opodo.orbitz. www. If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight and www.insideflyer. Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and receives good reviews from

such as Berlin and Hamburg. Denmark. You can reach all major German cities by train with ease. For more information about trains in Europe.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 67 to Frankfurt via Detroit is remote.raileurope. and sleek. to . Latvia. but you almost always find one main or central inner-city station called a Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). flight are pretty high. I tell you how to get into the city center from the train station. Perhaps you’re flying into Paris and from there going on to Berlin or Heidelberg as part of your European dream vacation.m. Norway. so it’s easy to include Germany as part of a larger European trip. promotional offers. International ferry services are available from the United Kingdom. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you buy. www. Sweden. Poland. Other helpful Web sites for booking airline tickets online include ߜ provides ferry service from Harwich. such as passport checks. Its Web site provides useful trip-planning information on train schedules and travel times. 114 in the ߜ www. In Chapter 7. or 11 p. ߜ www. border formalities. have more than one station. When you’re traveling between countries. which usually is conveniently located.opodo. Arriving by boat Germany’s northern coast lies along the North Sea and the Baltic Sea.m. contact Rail Europe (% 888-3827245 in the U. fares. Russia. seaeurope. and rail-pass prices.cheapflights. DFDS Seaways (% 800-533-3755.lastminutetravel. England. I discuss traveling around Germany by train and the various rail passes that can cut down on transportation costs. Trains are very much a part of the German (and European) travel ethic. are taken care of onboard the train. 800-361-7245 in Canada.. Have no Arriving by Other Means Germany is accessible by land and sea. but you have to play their “name our price” high-speed Thalys trains link Cologne and Düsseldorf with Paris and ߜ ߜ and Canada. Major cities. ext. and from all directions. Priceline usually has better deals than Hotwire.kayak. Traveling by train Germany is extremely well connected by train to the rest of Europe. In every city section of this guide. and Estonia. EuroCity (EC) trains connect Germany with neighboring countries. Finland. But your chances of getting a 6 a.

But don’t buy insurance from the tour operator! If the tour operator doesn’t fulfill its obligation to provide you with the vacation you paid for. The tour company takes care of all the details and tells you what to expect on each leg of your journey. (I tell you more about travel insurance in Chapter 10. tour operators may be evasive with their answers. ߜ What exactly is included? Don’t assume anything. the less time you spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. the journey takes 20 hours. you have no reason to think that the tour operator will fulfill its insurance obligations either. ask a few simple questions before you buy: ߜ What is the cancellation policy? How late can you cancel if you can’t go? Do you get a refund if you cancel? Do you get a refund if the operator cancels? ߜ How jampacked is the schedule? Does the tour schedule try to fit 25 hours into a 24-hour day. certain escorted tours may not be for you. Again. If a quota exists. but drinks . especially when the tour operator asks you to pay upfront. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. but the information can help you select a tour that’s sure to take place.68 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Hamburg. If you decide to go with an escorted tour. A box lunch may be included in an excursion. Joining an Escorted Tour Some travelers to foreign destinations prefer escorted tours. because they may not know the exact size of the group until everybody has made their reservations.m. Get travel insurance through an independent agency.m. find out what it is and how close they are to reaching it. You may be required to get yourself to and from the airports at your own expense. but they should be able to give you a rough estimate. sounds like a grind. Silja Lines (same telephone and Web site as for DFDS Seaways) sails from Helsinki across the Baltic to Rostock in northern Germany. I strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance. ߜ Does the tour require a minimum group size? Some tour operators require a minimum group size and may cancel the tour when they don’t book enough people. every day and not returning to your hotel until 6 or 7 p. along with finding out whether you have to put down a deposit and when final payment is due. ߜ How big is the group? The smaller the group. or does it give you ample time to relax or shop? If getting up at 7 a. Tour operators may be evasive about providing this fact. You know your costs upfront.) When choosing an escorted tour. so you don’t encounter many surprises.

How much flexibility does the tour offer? Can you opt out of certain activities.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 69 may be provides escorted tours for 18. That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour operators. In many cases. and Prague (from $2. Many escorted-tour companies cater to special interests.brendan vacations. including Berlin. or does the bus leave once a day. and the United Kingdom. Dresden. or does everybody get the same chicken cutlet? Tour operators in the United States Several companies offer escorted tours to Berlin. Black Forest.contiki. Contiki also offers an escorted eight-day Berlin–Prague trip. a package tour that includes airfare. Choosing a package tour For many destinations. Australia. . 8-country European Magic tour (from $1. not including 35-year-olds and has offices in the United States. ߜ Brennan Vacations (% 800-237-7249. such as castles on the Rhine for history buffs. and destinations in the rest of Germany (or include Germany in a Europe-wide tour). Potsdam.879 without airfare). Meissen. www. Cologne.279 per person double occupancy without airfare) include stops in the Rhine Valley and Munich. with no exceptions? Are all your meals planned in advance? Can you choose your entree at offers “Romantic Rhine. Neuschwanstein. The following companies offer escorted tours to Germany: ߜ Brendan Worldwide Vacations (% 800-421-8446. A good travel agent can help you find a tour that suits your particular interests. Its 12-day European Horizon tour (from $1. www. an eight-day Bavaria and Bodensee tour with stops in Munich. and Mainau (from $ has an eight-day escorted tour of German Christmas Market Towns from $2.brennanvactions. Neuschwanstein and Oberammergau. hotel. while others are more general. including a stay in a castle on the Rhine and exploration of German vineyards.959 without airfare). and Leipzig.079 per person double occupancy without airfare) and its 11-day. Munich. package tours can be a smart way to go. Beer may be included but not wine.” a nine-day Rhine cruise that includes visits to vineyards and trips to Cologne and Heidelberg. who then resell them to the offers escorted grand and highlight tours that cover most of Germany. ߜ Maupintour (www.globusjourneys. www. ߜ Contiki Holidays (% 866-CONTIKI. and transportation to and from the airport costs less than the hotel alone on a tour you book yourself. com) provides escorted tours in western and southern Germany.maupintour. Canada. ߜ Globus (www. and a nine-day Berlin-to-Bohemia tour that takes you to Berlin. Munich.649.

www. Site59.S. Some book flights on scheduled airlines. Prices depend on your departure city. Munich.bbb. and has air/hotel packages to Frankfurt. a daylong Rhine tour from has a hotel/airfare package to Frankfurt from a number of offers flight and hotel packages to Frankfurt and Munich. ߜ Northwest Airlines World Vacations (% 800-800-1504. Some let you choose between escorted vacations and independent vacations. Airline packages don’t always include airport taxes and vacations. and an array of sightseeing and transportation add-ons. Liberty Travel (call % 888-271-1584. www. some provide the same hotels for lower prices. which typically amount to about $80. If you’re unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager. and Frankfurt. such as Travel + has air/hotel packages to Berlin. . check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based. and a day tour of Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof — also do a brisk business in packages. others allow you to add on just a few excursions or escorted daytrips (also at discounted prices) without booking an entirely escorted tour. You also can rent a car or buy a Eurailpass for train travel. check out the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper or the ads in the back of national travel magazines. your choice of accommodations and travel days may be limited. Munich. Several big online travel agencies — Expedia. ߜ United Vacations (% 800-800-1504. and many let you choose the hotel category you want. or go online to www. don’t fly with is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast and usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers. In some packages.nwa worldvacations. departure cities.libertytravel. National Geographic Traveler. The following U. ߜ Delta Vacations (% 800-221-6666.unitedvacations. and Condé Nast Traveler. Add-ons include a Munich city tour. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. If a packager won’t tell you where it’s based. Travelocity. www. airlines offered packages to Germany from the United States in 2006: ߜ Continental Airlines Vacations (% 800-301-3800. Other good sources of package deals are the airlines. Orbitz.70 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Every package tour is different. others sell charters. and Lastminute. www. Locating airline and hotel packages To find package tours.

Stuttgart. km/137. the country is a snap to explore. If you want to get a feel for the country. The train trip between Hamburg and Lübeck is less than an hour. consider exploring at least a portion of Germany that has nothing to do with huge urban Berlin or Munich. in the north. in the south.734 sq. The cities in western Germany — Cologne. the mode of travel best suited to your needs and itinerary. With the area added by reunification. You’ll notice fascinating differences in culture. By fast train or car. Nuremberg — usually are no more than two or three hours apart by car or train. Germany is a fairly small country.Chapter 7 Getting Around Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling through Germany by train ᮣ Touring the sites by car ᮣ Cruising the rivers of Germany ᮣ Flying from city to city n this chapter. in about seven or eight hours. where you can sip wine in a small Rhineland village or explore a scenic region like Bavaria. Australia. When you get out of the cities and into the countryside. miles) is smaller than the state of Montana (but with more than 80 million people). you find out more about your travel options within Germany — that is. From Berlin you can reach Dresden or Leipzig in about two hours. and Canada. food. Germany (356. customs. Heidelberg. From Munich.735 sq. the trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps is only an hour by car and less than 90 minutes by train. . you can get from Berlin. and language as you travel from one part of Germany to another. Many historic towns and castles in Germany are manageable daytrips from larger cities. I Weighing the Options: Train or Car? Because of Germany’s comparatively small size and easy-access train and road networks. to Munich. the atmospheric charms of Germany are most strongly felt. Compared with the United States.

www. What follows is a rundown of the trains that you find within Germany: ߜ InterCity (IC) passenger trains offer express service between all major German cities at intervals of one or two hours. Someone who speaks English will be available to help you. Traveling by train is fast. and a high standard of comfort in both first and second classes. Each train makes stops at cities along the way.72 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany So should you rent a car or take the train? In almost all cases. German trains almost always run on time. You may be surprised by the bright-red. I recommend traveling by train above all other forms of transportation — especially if you’re a first-time visitor to Germany. enabling passengers to cross the entire country in only a few hours. a train is called an Eisenbahn (eye-sen-bawn) or a Zug (zoog). The railway system in Germany is operated by Deutsche Bahn (DB. Dining cars (Speisewagen. reaching speeds of 265kmph (165 mph). in English. yes. long-distance and local train timetables are coordinated to minimize waiting for connections. having a car in scenic areas. pronounced shpy-zuhvahg-en) and cafe or bistro cars (for lighter snacks) are on all trains. high-tech look of the newest trains. and convenient. And. You also can access train information online. you can choose whether to sit in a compartment with six seats or in an open saloon coach. and from Berlin to Munich. Following basic training Throughout Germany. individual reading lights. If you need any kind of train-related information while you’re in Germany — from timetables to fares and special services — call DB’s general information number at % 11861. and fun. ICE trains run from Hamburg to Munich. such as the Black Forest (Chapter 17) or the Romantic Road in Bavaria (Chapter 16). ߜ InterCity Express (ICE) trains. German Rail in English). from Frankfurt to Munich. Train types The federally owned and operated Deutsche Bahn has been modernizing and upgrading its trains steadily while integrating two different systems (Deutsche Bundesbahn in western Germany and Deutsche Reichsbahn in eastern Germany) into one. . are among the fastest in Europe.bahn. which connect major cities on heavily traveled routes. fun. at DB’s Web site. ICE trains have telephones. Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go In Germany. and telephone service. enables you to explore the countryside more easily. On IC trains. I recommend train travel for its convenience. ICE significantly reduces travel time. IC trains have adjustable cushioned seats. a restaurant. speed.

An announcement is made before the train arrives at each station. All German trains are divided into smoking (rauchen. First-class service on InterCity Express (ICE) trains includes a higher standard of personal service. In other trains. The Ruhesessel (sleeper chair) category offers open saloon seating with reclining seats. Paris. fewer passengers. This train operates between Berlin and Zurich (stopping at Frankfurt. Prague. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations. Ticket classes German trains have a two-tiered ticket system: first class (Erste Klasse) and second class (Zweite Klasse). You can specify your preference when reserving your seat. you may need to open the door by pulling up on a handle. The night trains have comfortable couchettes (basic sleeping compartments) and some more deluxe sleeping compartments with showers. you can order beverages and snacks that . But you can travel quite comfortably in second class. For some outof-the-way places. which now sometimes is called standard class. key cards. Hamburg and Zurich. The CNL includes a restaurant and cafe car. you may need to transfer to a RegionalBahn (RB) train to reach your destination. The first-class cars have roomier seats. and Dortmund and Vienna. First-class tickets cost about one-third more than second class. Brussels. Station stops are short. Sleeping accommodations in Deluxe include compartments with a shower and toilet. ߜ DB Nachtzug (Night Train) service is available between many cities in Germany and continues on to Amsterdam. Economy provides a four-bed compartment with washing facilities (you can book this class as a single or double). and Freiburg. Berlin and Dresden. Comfort Single or Double gives you a singleor double-bed compartment with washing facilities. when you’re onboard the train for seven hours or more. phones for wake-up service. and Copenhagen. pronounced raukin) and nonsmoking (nicht rauchen. RegionalExpress (RE) trains link rural areas to the long-distance rail network. ߜ For shorter local trips. and a panoramic window with blinds.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 73 ߜ The CityNightLine (CNL) is one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe. The CNL offers four different categories. You may appreciate the difference on long-distance journeys — from Berlin to Munich. pronounced nickt rau-kin) sections. say. S-Bahn (urban light-rail) trains are used. In new high-speed trains. Eurail and GermanRail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation. you find a well-marked button that automatically opens the door. and a more luxurious feel. among other towns). so have your luggage in hand and be ready to disembark when the train comes to a halt. Baden-Baden. usually within a suburban area around a large town.

This information also is posted as a printed schedule in the station.25). If you’re loaded down with several large. stowed elsewhere. and so on. Hotels are always close at hand. Although less common.) Getting off on the right track After arriving at the station. First. which sometimes have a ramp for luggage trolleys and baby carriages. or bus from there. departure is Abfahrt (ob-fahrt). . prominently placed departure and arrival boards list train numbers. you can check your luggage (Gepäck. Therefore.and second-class cars with a food-and-beverage trolley. arrival or departure times. (Just another way of saying: Don’t overpack. The station always is a main link in the city’s public transportation system. In large cities.m. you can take an elevator to the track level. Like other European trains. pronounced glice) for your departing train.m. In many German train stations. Auto trains If you want to avoid long-distance driving but need a car after you arrive at your destination. train times can be 13:00 (1 p.74 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany are brought to your seat.m.). German train stations in major cities offer all kinds of services. final destinations. you need to find the right track (Gleis. If you’re arriving in a city for sightseeing only. the time on the schedule reads 16:20. you can take yourself and your car on an overnight car-sleeper Auto Train. food and beverages. 15:00 (3 p. If your train leaves at 4:20 p. Heading to the Hauptbahnhof A German city’s Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). an employee comes through both first. porters (recognized by their red or blue uniforms) can transport your luggage. including currency exchange.. and usually a tourist information office. you must climb stairs. and not spending the night.). 14:00 (2 p. daytime automobile trains also operate.m. When you reach your destination. or main train station. pronounced geh-peck) at a luggage checkroom. up to 23:59 (11:59 p. The German word for arrival is Ankunft (on-koonft). comes along for the ride. Local and commuter trains don’t have food service. or you can use self-service luggage trolleys available for 1€ ($1. newsstands. heavy bags.m.). On some trains. while your automobile. rarely is more than a few minutes’ walk from the historic town center and all the main attractions. getting to your track without help may be difficult. you can pick up your car and go. You ride in a sleeper compartment on the train. so you can continue your local explorations by subway.and second-class passengers otherwise use the same dining cars and cafe cars for buying sandwiches and drinks. tram.). But in others. the German train system works on a 24-hour clock. At larger stations. Midnight always is listed as 0:00 hours and noon is 12:00. light-rail. and track numbers.

S. You can check out passes and prices at Rail Europe’s U. In larger stations. www. they can’t be purchased after you arrive in Germany or the rest of Europe. In larger stations. so you want to be near the appropriate area for boarding when your train pulls into the station. If you have a Eurailpass. Most rail passes must be purchased before you leave home.. look for the Reisezentrum (travel center).Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 75 If you have a reserved seat. Trains can be very long. Each car. pronounced plotz) reservation and buy train tickets ( They help you save time (ticket lines can be long) and. money.raileurope. the seat reservation costs 3€ ($3. If you have a German Rail Pass or a Eurailpass (see the next section).uk. or Canadian dollars) of fares between destinations within Germany. At Rail Europe’s Web site. You can make a seat (Platz. You can also find exact fares on Deutsche Bahn’s Web site. your ticket lists the car and seat number. reserving your seat in advance. you can click on “Fares and Schedules” and get an estimated cost (in U. Reserving your seat When traveling for any distance in Germany. and restaurant cars. Before you buy a rail pass. usually 1 to 6 or A to G. is numbered. or 800/361-7245 in Canada. the staff usually speaks English and can answer any questions you have. Travel agents throughout the United States and Canada sell all the rail passes described later in this section. usually. Web site: www. com. is always a good idea. Diagrams posted on the platform show the layout of first-class.75). London WI . but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. Otherwise.raileurope. which allows you to order by phone or online. second-class. or far-karten) at any train station. www. www. bahn. do a little research to find out whether it’s going to save you Saving time and euros with rail passes Rail passes are tickets that enable you to travel for a certain number of days without buying a ticket for each leg of your journey. Or stop in at the Rail Europe Travel Centre. You’re issued a ticket that lists the Wagen (car) number and the Platz (seat) and you’re risking a journey without a seat reservation. or Wagen (vah-ghen). Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Germany and continental Europe. 178 Piccadilly. make your booking at the ticket counter. The Wagen numbers correspond with numbers or letters on the platform.or second-class cars will stop. raileurope.S. make your way to the platform areas where the first. In smaller stations. the only free seat you find may be in the smoking area or out in the hallway (I speak from experience).K. Check the diagram and then make your way to the appropriate area of the platform before the train arrives. even if you have a Eurailpass or German Rail Pass.

and then rent a car for a two-day excursion into the Bavarian Alps to see Ludwig’s castles. Rail Europe also provides cost-effective “Rail ’n Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car. and Mosel rivers. and $1. these passes allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries. Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe The Eurailpass is one of Europe’s best bargains. German Rail Passes for kids ages 6 to 11 are half the adult you can purchase the passes online at www.K). with additional days available for a reduced price. including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth. $897 for 2 months. The 15-day Eurailpass costs $605. Some of the most popular passes. With a Eurailpass you can enjoy unlimited first-class rail travel in 18 countries. spend three days exploring the city. Sample prices per person: $200 for four days first class or $150 for second class. $634 for 1 month. A German Rail Youth Pass is valid only for persons younger than 26 years of age and is available only in second class. An even bigger bargain is the German Rail Twinpass. German Rail Passes are most conveniently available from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. A German Rail Pass also entitles the bearer to free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus.raileurope. A four-day pass costs $263 first class or $200 second class. including Germany. each additional day costs $38 first class. and free travel on KD German Line steamers (daytrips only) along the Rhine. $510 for 21 days.108 for 3 months. or 800-361-7245 in Canada). entitling you to unlimited second-class travel for $394 for 15 days. are available only to travelers younger than 26 years of age. These passes are for consecutive days of travel. including destinations not serviced by trains. you can purchase a Eurailpass Youth. Passes are for periods as short as 15 days or as long as 3 months.76 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany (% 08708/371-371 in the U. Children younger than 6 travel free. Sample prices: $163 for four days. The second pass represents a 50 percent savings over single prices. you can ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich. German rail passes: For Deutschland only The German Rail Pass allows for four consecutive or nonconsecutive days of travel in one month within Germany.S.. For instance. If you’re younger than 26. . $25 second class. each additional day $13. Main. for two adults (they do not have to be married and can be of the same sex) traveling together in first or second class.

Drivers from the United States. Remember. If you’re going to tour Germany by car. You can often rent a car in one German city and return the vehicle in another city for no additional charge. Eurailpass Saver for two to five persons traveling together. four. Touring by Car: Autobahns. keep in mind that you may get a better rate if you reserve the car at least seven days in advance. for example — where even I succumb to car rental to explore the countryside.. have to pay a penalty of around $25) for changing or canceling a prepaid contract. however. in some cases. www. you have to go through some rather complicated paperwork (and. However.S. Tankstellen. good for first-class travel for 10 or 15 days in a 2-month period. from a travel agent or from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the you may want to pick up a copy of Frommer’s Germany’s Best-Loved Driving Tours (Wiley). Prepaying rentals in dollars before leaving the United States offers some advantages. the rental process is more streamlined. Eurailpass holders also are entitled to considerable reductions on certain buses and ferries. I recommend that you make all the arrangements before you leave home. that if you opt to prepay and your plans change. Australia. Whenever you rent. and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. but no other special license is required. or 800361-7245 in Canada. See the appendix for a list of names and contact information. nothing is more pleasant than sitting in a train and watching the countryside roll by. or at an office within German cities. and other non–European Union countries must have a valid driver’s license. and Eurail Selectpass. or five countries linked by rail or ferry. allowing travelers to select three. Renting a car in Germany Renting a car is fairly easy in Germany. A host of different Eurailpass options are available. Seat reservations are required on some trains. To me. Buy your Eurailpass before you leave home. which cost extra. Canada. You get an easy-to-understand net price (which you have to prepay by credit card at least 14 days before departure). Several international car-rental firms rent cars in Germany. Germany has scenic regions — the Romantic Road. . the Bodensee. You can pick up your car at most airports and major train stations.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 77 Eurailpasses can be bought and used only by non-European residents. including the Eurail Pass Flexi. and Benzin I’m a Zug (train) nut. The night trains have couchettes (sleeping cars). and the Black Forest.raileurope.

They offer a German Rail ’n Drive option that gives you two days of unlimited train travel (first or second class) and two days of Hertz car rental within one month. The Bundesstrassen in the major touring areas of the Romantic Road in Bavaria. fast lane). you’ll pay for all damages up to the cost of actually replacing the vehicle. right lane. in general. Taking the roads less traveled The roads that make up the Autobahn (pronounced otto-bahn) form Germany’s main long-distance highway network. I recommend that you purchase all the optional insurance coverage. Some credit cards (especially platinum and gold cards) cover the at the same time you book your German Rail Pass or Eurailpass (see “Saving time and euros with rail passes. but many drivers going too fast report that they’ve been stopped by police and fined on the spot. consider taking out Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) for extra liability coverage. or 800-361-7245 in Canada. A Collision-Damage Waiver (CDW) is an optional insurance policy that can be purchased when you sign a rental agreement. Germany’s road signs are standard international signs.78 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany You can also rent a car through Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. If you don’t have a CDW and have an accident. If you rent a car in Germany. The government recommends an Autobahn speed limit of 130kmph (80 mph). www. or someone else. In theory.S. so if your own car insurance doesn’t cover you abroad. which are available at all major bookstores throughout Germany. individual Autobahns are indicated by the letter A followed by a number. and the Black Forest are smoothly paved and kept in good repair. So exercise reasonable caution. A German driver on the Autobahn can be like one possessed. and Bundesstrassen. In this book.” earlier in this chapter).raileurope. B31). You can purchase extra days for both train travel and car rental.. the Rhine Valley. another passenger. some secondary and local roads are not in good shape. so call your company to check on these benefits before you spend the extra money on additional insurance. so you may prefer the slower. Hallweg also produces good road maps. Michelin publishes the best regional maps. See Table 7-1 for a few important words that you should know. by the letter B (examples: A96. Neither the CDW nor credit-card companies cover liability if you injure yourself. . the Autobahn does not have a speed limit (in the left. The Bundesstrassen (state roads) vary in quality from region to region. However. finding your way by looking for directional signs rather than highway number signs is easier. In eastern Germany.

you need to know a few general facts: ߜ Signs show distances and speed limits in kilometers (km) and kilometers per hour (kmph).Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 79 Table 7-1 German Anfang Ausfahrt Baustelle Einbahnstrasse Einfahrt Ende Gefahr Links einbiegen Rechts einbiegen Verengte Fahrbahn Vorsicht German Road Signs English Translation Start.62 of a mile. . ߜ You can pass other vehicles only on the left. ߜ Unless posted differently. German motorists generally flash their lights if they want you to move over so they can pass. Children younger than 12 must sit on booster seats in the back so that regular seat belts can be used safely. speed limits are • 50kmph (30 mph) in towns • 100kmph (60 mph) on regular highways • 130kmph (78 mph) on Autobahns ߜ On Autobahns. And I mean fast. or beginning Exit Building site. ߜ The law requires that all passengers wear seat belts. or roadwork One-way street Entrance End Danger Turn left Turn right Road narrows Attention! Look out! Following the rules of the road If you’re going to drive in Germany. A kilometer is 0. Children younger than 4 must ride in a car seat. the left lane is the fast lane.62km. and a mile is 1. Do not drive in this lane unless you are passing another car.

Look for parking lots and parking garages outside the center.80 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ You must use low-beam headlights at night and during fog. called Tankstelle (tonk-shtel-leh) appear frequently along the Autobahns. and snowfalls. Sailing through Germany: River Cruises Germany’s major river is the Rhine. you find emergency phones every 2km (about 11⁄4 miles). The types of gasoline are Normal Bleifrei (regular unleaded). ask for “road service assistance” (Strassenwachthilfe). Super Plus Bleifrei (supreme unleaded). or just plain impossible. If you don’t belong to an auto club. more castles were built in the Rhine Valley than in any other valley in the world. On the Autobahn. Filling up the tank of a medium-sized car will usually cost about 60€ ($75). you can call ADAC from an emergency phone. Handling a roadside emergency The major automobile club in Germany is Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobile Club (ADAC). or self-service). Emergency assistance is free. called Benzin (ben-seen). If you have a breakdown on the Autobahn. but you pay for parts and materials. call ADAC’s breakdown service at % 01802/222-222. Fill ’er up. In English. Super Bleifrei (super unleaded). which flows through the heart of Europe from the Alps to the North Sea. in some larger cities. You fill your tank and pay inside at the counter. . bitte (please) Gasoline. is readily available throughout Germany. Am Westpark 8. ߜ You must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. signs on the way into town indicate how much space is available in various lots or parking garages. Most parking lots use an automated ticket system. expensive. heavy rain. the point of the black triangle on posts alongside the road indicates the direction of the nearest phone. don’t risk driving. ߜ Parking in the center of most big towns is difficult. The self-service process is basically the same as that of the United States. 81373 München (% 089/ 76760). because most historic town centers are for pedestrians only. and diesel. If you’ve had more than a glass of wine or beer. You insert coins (or credit cards) to purchase a certain amount of time. The cheapest gasoline is at stations marked SB-TANKEN (Selbstbedienung. they have the right of way. ߜ Driving while intoxicated and drinking while driving are very serious offenses in Germany. Through the centuries. They are always identified by a large P. But remember that gas is always much more expensive than in the United States. and gas stations.

and enters the Rhine at the city of Mainz. past Frankfurt.. CA 91367 (% 877-66VIKING [845464]. . waiting for your departure. going through security. you can already be there. but other European carriers are increasing their German domestic routes. VA 22314 (% 800-348-8287. but when you factor in time spent getting to the airport. www. for example.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 81 This area has great appeal to visitors. you may want to consider this option. Frankfurt.deilmanncruises.rivercruises. 1800 Diagonal Rd. Lufthansa (% 800-645-3880 in the U. and then getting into the city after your plane lands . I tell you about river excursions along the Mosel and Neckar rivers and local sightseeing cruises in Berlin. . For more information. Itineraries range from 2 to 20 nights. in the city center. Cologne. If you’re looking for an unusual and relaxing way to see Germany. The Main flows from the Danube. The downside is that you won’t see the countryside. by train. flows past the great art city of Dresden.lufthansa. say. www. . cuts through Germany’s eastern border in a beautiful area called Saxon Switzerland (see Chapter 14). The train from Frankfurt to In the city and regional chapters of this guidebook. Hamburg or Berlin in the north to Munich in the south. Viking KD River Cruises and Peter Deilman EuropAmerica Cruises offer several cruises along these three great waterways. mostly between April and October but with some in December. A trip that normally takes seven or eight hours by train or car takes about an hour by plane. Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? Flying from city to city within Germany makes sense if you’re traveling from. or from Cologne in the west to Leipzig in the east. and Canada.. Alexandria. and continues northeastward. takes 1 hour and 20 offers the most extensive and frequent flights within the country. which begins in the Czech Republic. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. 01803/803-803 in Germany. www. The Elbe. You can fly this route. Suite 170. 21820 Burbank Blvd. Dresden.S. Woodland Hills. com). situated on tributaries of the Elbe are Berlin and or www. and Heidelberg. Flying doesn’t make much sense if you’re traveling short distances between cities that are connected by high-speed trains. or Peter Deilmann EuropAmerica Cruises.lufthansa.

and every country offers its own lodging possibilities. . and again in December (the period that constitutes high season). Frankfurt.Chapter 8 Booking Your Accommodations In This Chapter ᮣ Checking out the options ᮣ Getting the best room for the best rate ᮣ Surfing for cyberdeals ᮣ Landing a room without a reservation T his chapter deals with that age-old question asked by every traveler going to an unfamiliar country or city: Where should I spend the night? Everyone travels differently. such as the Black Forest. hotels in the inexpensive-to-moderate range always are first to be snapped up. In Germany’s large cities. and how to get the best deal for your money. In a small village. finding a room may be as simple as spotting a sign in a house window that reads Zimmer frei (room available). how to book a room online. and other cities throughout the country play host to large trade fairs and special events that make hotel rooms scarce. especially in the middle of winter. the Rhine and Mosel valleys. and the Bodensee (Lake Constance). Cologne. also fill up quickly during high season. what to expect in each category. Booking ahead isn’t as important in the rest of Germany. Hotels in popular tourist areas. you find out about German hotels — how to find them. wherever you are. but I still recommend doing so — particularly when you’re going to be spending a Friday or Saturday night in a major tourist spot like Dresden or Füssen. From April through September. Munich. like Berlin and Munich. Throughout the year. During off season. In the following pages. near Ludwig’s castles. booking your hotel room ahead is essential — especially if you’re going to be in Munich during Oktoberfest. you won’t have a problem booking a room on the spot. Berlin.

. In a pension. depending on the size and degree of luxury. and smoked fish or pickled herring. Charges for this service vary. fruit. I don’t use that star-rating system in this book. Most tourist information centers also have a free directory of local accommodations.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 83 Tourist information centers. yogurt. can help you find a room. A Decke is what Americans call a comforter or duvet. you find a Decke (deck-uh) on the bed. you find a Decke on each side. and local tourist boards control standards in all categories of accommodations. pastries. fresh bread. and some cold cuts. or B&B) must open its doors for inspection to be able to list and rent rooms. Smoke-free rooms and smoke-free floors finally are catching on in Germany. cozy inns. located in or near the main train stations in all German cities and towns.75). takes the place of blankets. Hotel associations. A five-star hotel is a luxury property with an on-site spa or pool and a rate at the top end of the price spectrum. A one-star hotel is basic and inexpensive. At hotels. except at some boutique and high-end luxury hotels. eggs. instead. You find all types of lodging. These same state agencies and tourist boards rate hotels according to a star system. but you get that back at the hotel. cereal. You’re most likely to find them in midrange to high-end hotels. But remember that Europeans in general are not as committed to smokefree environments as are Americans. breakfast may be coffee. Breakfast (Frühstück) always is included in the price of a room. a roll with butter and jam. and others charge 10 percent of the first night’s hotel rate. This light. The system isn’t used to recommend hotels but rather simply to categorize them according to their amenities. Some places charge nothing. rustic guesthouses. small family-run hotels. chain hotels. I try to give you the best options in different price categories. Finding the Place That’s Right for You Germany has very high standards for hotels and inns. buttoned within a sheet. and simple rooms in private homes and apartments. so the service ends up costing nothing. The term for “no smoking” is nicht rauchen (nickt rau-kin). from luxury old-world palaces and super-high-tech showoffs to hip boutique hotels. regional tourist associations. If two beds are joined to make a double. an egg. Even the smallest Pension (bed-and-breakfast. others charge a small fixed fee (usually no more than 3€/$3. breakfast is more likely to be a self-serve buffet with juice. feather-filled covering. In all types of accommodations in Germany. cold cuts. You won’t find a speck of Schmutz (dirt) in any of them.

The Bleibtreu in Berlin (Chapter 11) is big on hip. Charges for the (fabulous) breakfast buffet are anywhere from 17€ to 22€ ($21–$27). and Romantic Hotels. and the property has an on-site health club. contemporary design. Chain hotels Holiday Inn. but also look for special weekend rates on the hotels’ Web sites.25 per bag). Der Kleine Prinz in Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) is built around oldfashioned luxury. Mövenpick. What you don’t get is a free breakfast. InterCity Hotels (always near train stations). Small Luxury Hotels. The staff is unusually welcoming and the service impeccable. Kempinski. Boutique hotels generally have fewer than 70 rooms and offer a unique ambience and high level of personalized service. Mercure. Pricewise. classic Bauhaus style. and bathrobes. they generally cost 150€ ($188) and up. Porters are available to take your luggage up to your room (tip 1€/$1. Luxury hotels Public spaces in luxury hotels are sophisticated and elegant. Inter-Continental. Le Meridien. and bathrobes. Breakfast may or may not be included. and high-quality toiletries.84 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In Germany. Bathrooms are large and well equipped with magnifying mirrors. European. but they are beautifully fitted out. satellite TV. Sheraton. Rooms and bathrooms are not always large. highspeed and wireless Internet access. 24-hour room service is available. in particular — have properties in this luxury category. the Hotel Excelsior Ernst in Cologne (Chapter 22) and the Hotel Adlon in Berlin (Chapter 22) are two of the most luxurious luxury hotels. I describe each type. you have several different kinds of hotels and accommodations from which to choose. Some brand-name hotel chains — Hyatt. which you can find in every chapter’s hotel listings and in the appendix. Amenities typically include brand-name toiletries. Travel Charme. Radisson SAS. and international chains include Accor. Park Plaza/ Art’otel. cable and satellite TV. Hotel Brandenburger Hof in Berlin (Chapter 11) emphasizes a sleek. These establishments often are part of hotel associations. Ringhotels. Ramada — names you probably know — all have hotels in Germany. Most boutique hotels are too small to have a pool or health club but may have an arrangement with a nearby facility. Your bed is turned down at night. Swissôtel. usually with a sauna and pool. and Steigenberger. and Treff Hotels. a minibar. Boutique hotels Think of them as small luxury hotels. Boutique hotels always have a fine-dining restaurant and a bar. For the . tubs (often with whirlpools) and showers. German. In the following sections. such as Relais & Châteaux. telephone. a couple of phones. Expect to pay 175€ ($219) and up. The hotel has at least two fine gourmet restaurants. Best Western. The rooms themselves are generally spacious and beautifully furnished with amenities such as a minibar. which often are the best restaurants in town. Each one has its own personality. beginning with the most expensive. high-speed and wireless Internet access.

. Prices vary greatly for chain hotels. Prices for a small to midsize independent hotel range from 85€ to 175€ ($106–$219). lunch. cable TV. In these hotels. Tour packagers and convention planners often house their groups in chain hotels. Most guesthouses don’t have an elevator. and the upper floors. a word sometimes attached to a hotel’s name. Rates at small and midsize properties always include a buffet breakfast. you find a telephone and cable TV. The rooms are smaller and have a more standardized décor than rooms in luxury hotels. or in the country than in large cities. and somewhat anonymous. The ambience tends to be rustic and cozy. Shopping around on the Web may net you some big savings. which typically are given a two. usually no more than three total.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 85 most part. comfortable rooms without much personality but at hard-to-beat prices. but your rate will include breakfast. and sometimes a minibar. enormous. Some rooms have small private bathrooms with showers or bathtubs. The Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg and Feriengasthof Helmer in Schwangau (see Chapter 16 for both) are examples of this kind of accommodations. In general. and many of the properties are older and located in the oldest and most picturesque quarters of the city. The inn may also offer a special rate for dinner or lunch and dinner. depending on the time of year and the presence of trade shows or conventions. some with breakfast included. Properties like Hotel Jedermann in Munich (Chapter 15) or Hotel-Garni Brugger in Lindau (Chapter 17) offer basic. expect to pay anywhere from 110€ to 175€ ($137–$219). Guesthouses A guesthouse.or three-star rating by the local tourist authority. have just a few rooms. Room service is available. and dinner to hotel guests and outside patrons. called a Gasthaus (gahst-house) or a Gasthof (gahsthofe). You’re more likely to find guesthouses in small towns. other rooms have sinks but share bathrooms and showers in the hallway. is basically an inn with a restaurant that serves breakfast. and the hotel often has an on-site pool or health club with sauna. in medium-sized cities. You probably won’t find a telephone in your room or too many amenities. Amenities include a telephone. They also tend to be newish. means that breakfast is the only meal the hotel serves. chain hotels offer brand-name familiarity and dependable service. Smaller independent hotels Many small and medium-sized hotels in Germany are family owned and operated. Garni. Bathrooms are smaller and less glamorous than the ones in a luxury or boutique hotel property. You generally find different room categories. The rooms themselves often are charming — what you’d typically expect in an old-world inn. Rates are typically from 55€ to 110€ ($69–$137). The restaurant occupies the main or first floor.

the central reservations number may not know about discount rates at specific locations. although some of these properties do offer special rates for longer stays. You may be pleasantly surprised. so you may or may not have a TV. often advertised with a simple sign: Zimmer frei (room available). You sometimes see these rates printed on the fire/emergency-exit diagrams posted on the back of your door. In smaller towns. It’s the rate you get if you walk in off the street and ask for a room for the night. Keep in mind that many pensions operate on a cash-only basis. A pension is the same as a B&B (bed-and-breakfast): a room in a private home or apartment. or you may have to share the bathroom. and guesthouses. Room rates (even rack rates) change with the season. Perhaps the best way to avoid paying the rack rate is surprisingly simple: Just ask for a cheaper or discounted rate. Hotels are happy to charge you the rack rate.86 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Pensions The Pension (pronounced pen-see-own in Germany) has long been the backbone of budget travel in Germany. with breakfast included in the price. rooms start around 30€ ($37) per person per night. Breakfast always is included in the price. hotel rates usually go down in July and August. (That’s because the hotel often gives the agent a discount in exchange for steering his business toward that hotel. prices are higher in large cities. A travel agent may be able to negotiate a better price with certain hotels than you can get by yourself. and Dec). Amenities vary from place to place.) Reserving a room through the hotel’s toll-free number also may result in a lower rate than calling the hotel directly. considered high season elsewhere in Europe. In all but the smallest accommodations. but you can almost always do better. If you travel in the high season (Apr–June. Your best bet is to call both the local number and the toll-free number and see which one gives you a better deal. Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. the rate you pay for a room depends on many factors — chief among them being how you make your reservation. but you generally won’t have a phone. (See Chapter 3 for more information on Germany’s different seasons. In Germany. you can also use the kitchen. and in some cases. Prices aren’t negotiable at smaller hotels. You may luck out and find a place with a private bathroom.) But . pensions. On the other hand. Sept. as occupancy rates rise and fall. you’ll probably pay more. Pension Niebuhr in Berlin (Chapter 11) is a good big-city pension. Some half a million beds are available in private homes across the country.

This competitiveness can be a boon to consumers who have the patience and time to shop for and compare the online sites for good deals — but shop they These Internet hotel agencies have multiplied in mind-boggling numbers of late. Surfing the Web for hotel deals Shopping online for hotels generally is done one of two ways: by booking through the hotel’s own Web site or through an independent booking agency (or a fare-service agency like Priceline). Be sure to mention membership in AAA. TravelAxe (www. and Starwood chains) and is therefore plugged directly into the hotels’ reservations systems — unlike independent online agencies that have to fax or e-mail reservation requests to the hotel. In the meantime. For more tips about how to get the best room rate. and Expedia soon will be able to plug directly into the reservations systems of many hotel chains. Travelocity posts unvarnished customer reviews and ranks its properties according to the AAA rating system. More than You never know when the affiliation may be worth a few euros off your room rate. AARP. competing for the business of millions of consumers surfing for accommodations around the world. is partly owned by the hotels it represents (including the including the taxes and service charges. see the information about choosing a tour package in Chapter 6. To be fair. Expedia offers a long list of special deals and virtual tours or photos of available rooms so you can see what you’re paying for. so the rates quoted in this book may be different from the actual rate you receive when you make your reservation. Another booking site. many of the major sites are undergoing improvements in service and ease of use. frequent-flier programs. Travelweb (www. Of the “big three” sites. . getting a confirmation number and making a printout of any online booking transactions are good practices.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 87 even within a given and Quikbook. a good portion of which get misplaced in the shuffle. Also reliable are Hotels. and any corporate rewards programs you can think of when you call to book. And keep in mind that hotels at the top of a site’s listing may be there for no other reason than that they paid money to get the placement. An excellent free program. Hyatt. can help you search multiple hotel sites at once — even ones you may never have heard of — and conveniently lists the total price of the room. travelers have arrived at the hotel only to be told that they have no reservation. room prices are subject to change without notice.travelweb.travelaxe. because prices can vary considerably from site to site.

For provides B&B listings for inns in dozens of countries around the globe.biddingfortravel. the following Web sites will help you with booking hotel rooms online: ߜ www. Some lodging sites specialize in a particular type of accommodations. Expedia. Although the major travel booking sites (Frommer’s. such as B&Bs.88 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In addition to lists bargain rates at hotels throughout Germany. you pay upfront. look at images of the rooms. check prices and availability. Web site (www. You often find properties not listed with more general online travel agencies. Because the site prebooks blocks of rooms. ߜ InnSite (www. and Orbitz) offer hotel booking.180096hotel. many hotels stick Priceline guests in their least desirable rooms. Call its toll-free number (% 800-364-0801) if you want more options than the Web site lists online. On the downside. You can find a B&B in Berlin or the Black Forest.innsite. ߜ Landidyll ( Note: Some hotels don’t provide loyalty-program credits or points or other frequent-stay amenities when you book a room through opaque online services. Priceline is much better at getting five-star lodging for three-star prices than at finding anything at the bottom of the scale. another good site if you can read German. Expedia. it features a fairly up-to-date list of hotels that Priceline uses in major cities. Orbitz. it sometimes has rooms at hotels that are sold ߜ www. The following list includes sites that enable you to make online reservations at hotels throughout Germany: ߜ Hotel Discounts (www. and is a site that you may want to use if you can read German. focuses on family hotels all across Germany that are managed according to ecological principles and have gastronomic flair.landidyll. and the fee is nonrefundable. which you won’t find on the more mainstream booking ߜ www. ߜ Hotel Online ( ߜ www. and then e-mail the innkeeper if you have questions.travelweb. including Germany. Priceline is even better for booking hotels than it is for booking flights. you may be better off using a site devoted primarily to lodging. In the opaque Web site category. It features independent hotels throughout Germany and northern Europe that are a good value for your money.quickbook. you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel before offering up your money. Go to the before bidding on a hotel room on Priceline.tripadvisor.

offer weekend deals at many leading chains. within reason.travelweb. You can book almost 90 percent of these accommodations online. has about 450 hotels worldwide. ߜ Inquire about the location of the restaurants. updated each Monday. ߜ Ask whether the hotel is renovating. quieter. including Germany. including first-class and resort hotels throughout Germany. and have more windows and light than standard rooms. bars. and focuses on chains such as Hyatt and Hilton. asking a few more pointed questions can go a long way toward making sure you get the best room in the house.srs-worldhotels. if you aren’t happy with your room when you arrive. ߜ Always ask for a corner room.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 89 ߜ SRS-Worldhotels (www. and discos in the hotel — all sources of annoying noise. ߜ Travelweb (www. talk to the front desk. . Its Click-It Weekends. and they don’t always cost more. request a room away from the renovation work. They’re usually larger. if it is. You can check for special discounted and weekend rates at many great German hotels. Reserving the best room After you make your reservation. If they have another room. they should be happy to accommodate lists more than 16.000 hotels worldwide.

germany-tourism. But family travel can be immensely rewarding. Seniors may like to take advantage of discounts or tours designed especially for them. Jewish visitors may want to visit Holocaust memorials and worship in a synagogue. Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families Germany is a pretty kid-friendly country. giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes.Chapter 9 Catering to Special Needs or Interests In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling with your kids ᮣ Discovering discounts and special tours for seniors ᮣ Locating wheelchair-accessible attractions ᮣ Finding lesbigay communities and special events ᮣ Tracing Germany’s Jewish history M any of today’s travelers have special interests or needs. People with disabilities need to ensure that sites on their itineraries are barrierfree. with its section on family travel is a good place to begin researching your trip. from toddlers to teens. de or www. children). but traveling anywhere with Kinder (kin-der. If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning. Parents may want to take their children along on trips. In this . dragging them thousands of miles away to a country where a different language is spoken may seem like an insurmountable challenge.cometogermany. The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. I offer advice and resources for all these travelers. is a challenge — no doubt about it. Gays and lesbians may want to know about welcoming places and events.

or bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs). and Family Travel Files (www. withyourkids. For information on passport requirements for children.thefamilytravelfiles. Younger teens traveling in Berlin and Munich may want to check out the Hard Rock Cafe in those cities. high-toned restaurants in Germany are not particularly welcoming toward young children. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. Berlin. In larger cities. You won’t. local restaurants. On trains.familytravelforum. and tips. children ages 6 to 11 pay half the adult fare. If you’re traveling with children. an award-winning site that offers travel The menus aren’t geared to the tastes of U. may present problems. these types of arrangements are common. which considerably reduces the admission price for a group of two adults and two or more children.S. find these food chains in smaller villages and towns. TravelWithYourKids (www. and the staff can be less than welcoming to children who are not well behaved.familytravelnetwork. Zeroing in on these places can help you plan your trip more quickly and easily. In fact. see Chapter 10. . Look for the Kid Friendly icon as you flip through this book. and children younger than 6 travel free. you can keep costs down by eating at lowkey. deals. Smaller pensions. always check to see whether the attraction offers a money-saving family ticket. such as cramped rooms and shared toilet facilities. The same is true for public transportation: Low-priced family or group tickets usually are available. Ask questions before you reserve. and attractions that are particularly family friendly. The establishment may bring in an extra cot or let you share a larger room. even when the place welcomes kids. including Burger King and McDonald’ Admission prices for attractions throughout Germany are reduced for children ages 6 to 14. Locating family-friendly businesses Most German hotels happily accommodate your family if you reserve your rooms in advance and make the staff aware that you’re traveling with kids. Munich. in Germany you don’t see many families dining in expensive restaurants.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 91 You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Forum (www. I use it to highlight hotels. Expensive. and midsize German cities have American-style fast-food places. Kids younger than 6 almost always get in for free. which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families. Family Travel Network (www. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning.

ask whether you’ll have access to an elevator or a Fahrstuhl (far-shtool). the selection may not include as many presweetened varieties as in the United States. . such as lower prices for German Rail Passes and reduced admission at museums and other attractions. Always ask. Note: In Germany. When considering museums. Carrying an ID with proof of age can pay off in all these situations. sausage) is 100 percent meat with no filler. The staircases in some places are a test for anyone with luggage. as they’re called in Germany. In the evening. be aware that not all hotels — particularly smaller. bear in mind that most German museums do not translate their signage and texts into English. Being a senior may entitle you to some terrific travel bargains. Most of the hotels marked with a Kid Friendly icon in this book can help arrange baby-sitting.92 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany The best of the Wurst Your time in Germany may be a good opportunity to introduce your kids to some dishes that they’ve never tried. when you plan your trip. Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors Germany won’t present any problems for you if you’re a senior who gets around easily. What are your options? Ask your hotel staff whether they can recommend a local baby-sitting service. however. But you can’t take Junior along on this special evening. even if the reduction isn’t posted. If not. less-expensive pensions and guesthouses — have elevators. For something more familiar. listening to the tape. Germany’s ever-present Wurst (voorst. kids can choose from a selection of cereals at most buffet breakfasts in hotels. Hiring a baby sitter in Germany What you really need is an exciting evening at the opera and a romantic late dinner with a glass of fine German wine. When you reserve a hotel. many of the top museums offer audio guides in English. a trip to a museum may try the patience of those children who can’t understand what they’re reading. and familiarizing themselves with the sounds of the German language and learning at least a few words. You can spur your kids’ interest (and your own) by buying a German language tape or checking one out from the library. However. everyone can spend an hour together. you may find that some discounts are available only for German or EU (European Union) residents. Therefore.

www. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. polar expeditions. discerning traveler. Elderhostel (% 877-426-8056) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries around the world. The price includes airfare. www. and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers. NW. meals. 101 Tips for Mature Travelers. major tour operators offering trips to Germany. These courses are is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature.” “Treasures of the Elbe River Valley. Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon) offers member discounts on car rentals and hotels. www. and insurance.eldertreks. Washington. tuition.elderhostel. ElderTreks (% 800741-7956. not specifically seniors. private-jet adventures.gct. www. With a annual membership of around $13 (anyone 50 or older can join).aarp.” and “The Rhine and Mosel River Valleys. MA 02110-1941. with trips around the world that include guided Boston. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www. tips.S. accommodations. And you’ll be glad to know that you won’t be graded. mostly of the tour-bus variety but also including river cruises along the Rhine and Mosel. by Joann Rattner Heilman. . INTRAV (% 800-456-8100. offers small-group tours to off-thebeaten-path or adventure-travel locations. ߜ Elderhostel (75 Federal St. Popular Germany offerings in 2006 included “Heartland of Classical Music. available from Grand Circle Travel (% 800-221-2610 or 617-350-7500. % 800221-2610 or 617-350-7500.intrav. travel50andbeyond. hassle-free ways to learn while traveling. cities and discounts on escorted tours from Globus and offers people 55 and older a variety of university-based education programs in Berlin and throughout Germany.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 93 The sources in the following list can provide information about discounts and other benefits for seniors: ߜ AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons. www. including discounts on US Airways flights to Frankfurt and Munich from several U. DC 20049. % 877-4268056. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits. MA 02210.. % 866-687-2277. restricted to travelers 50 and older. and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill).com) offers package deals for the 50-plus market. 601 E St. Boston.” ߜ Grand Circle Travel (347 Congress St.

com) and Open World Magazine. www. 250 City provides general information on accessible travel. and companion services.emerginghorizons.” containing information on trip planning. fax: 020/7250-0212. Germany is one of the more advanced countries in Europe when it comes to accessibility for disabled travelers. Locating resources The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. ߜ Mobility International USA (% 541-343-1284. Over the Rainbow. 12 City Forum. . is a good place to begin researching your trip.miusa. travel insurance. tour operators. published by SATH. ߜ The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH. which publishes vacation “fact offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on publishes A World of Options. Here are some other helpful resources in the United States: ߜ The Moss Rehab Hospital (www. and transportation abroad.cometogermany. because more options and resources are available than ever before. British travelers with disabilities may want to contact RADAR (Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation. ߜ AirAmbulanceCard.. and a newsletter. travel agents. London EC1V 8AF. access guides. www. de or www. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons ( travel/index. org.germany-tourism.icanonline. specialized accommodations. a 658-page book of resources that covers everything from biking trips to scuba outfitters. www. fax: 212-725-8253. www.94 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities The German word for disabled is behindert (bee-hin-dert).mossresourcenet.sath. Survival Strategies for Going is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities. vehicle rentals.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible In provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. ߜ The American Foundation for the Blind (% 800-232-5463. % 020/7250-3222. % 212447-7284. A disability needn’t stop anybody from traveling. with its section on travel for the disabled. afb.radar. the community Web site iCan (www.

public buses are generally wheelchair accessible. However. For many wheelchair-bound travelers. accessible accommodations. an escorted tour is a necessity.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 95 If you can read German. and Canada. The international airports in Munich and Frankfurt are wheelchair has information on the accessibility of public buildings throughout Germany. www. bahn. www. 40215 Düsseldorf. fax: 605-334-0000. You can reserve your seat in advance and get information about traveling with a disability by calling the special Deutsche Bahn number for disabled travelers at % 01805/512-512. including free seating reservations for travelers in wheelchairs. Germany offers both options. you may want to use one of these resources: ߜ Nationale Koordinationsstelle Tourismus für Alle ( (click on “Mobilität&Service” and “Handicap”).com) Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair) Traveling in a wheelchair (called a or they may not be wide . or 605-366-0202. Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) offers transportation service for the disabled.seunlimitedtravel. you can find special offers and a list of German tour operators offering special tours and travel opportunities. disabilitytravel. Most of the older and less expensive pensions and guesthouses don’t have elevators. more modern hotels). Kirchfeldstrasse 149. Several organizations offer tours designed to meet the needs of travelers with disabilities. You can also find information (in English) for disabled travelers on its Web site. in larger cities. But others want the adventures of being on their own. ߜ The Web site You-Too (www. fax: 0211/33-68-760. Some 385 train stations throughout the country have lifting aids or mobile ramps. under “Reiseinfos” (Travel Information). Tour operators with trips to Germany include ߜ Accessible Journeys (% 800-846-4537 or 610-521-0339. and the rest of Germany (more in the western part than the east) have rooms for the disabled (these tend to be in larger. and accessible activities. % 0211/33-68-001. Munich. www. national Tourism Coordination Agency for All is the central organization in the country for all inquiries concerning barrier-free ߜ S E Unlimited Travel (% 800-552-9798 in the U. www. On the Web site. Thanks to its comprehensive accessibility. natko. Many hotels in Berlin. pronounced roll-shtool) presents unique challenges. Not all U-Bahn (subway) stations have wheelchair access.

ߜ Munich celebrates Christopher Street Day in mid-July. looking at vineyards and castles. Ask about this issue before you reserve. or Gruppen (group) tickets. Larger theaters and performing-arts venues are often wheelchair accessible. Also keep in mind that in older. too (again. With most family. stores. Lesbigay travelers may want to time their visits to coincide with these big festivals: ߜ Berlin holds its annual Gay & Lesbian Street Festival in mid-June. . dance clubs. Although not all restaurants provide wheelchair ramps. gay) or lesbisch (lez-bish. If you’re interested in gliding down the Rhine and Mosel rivers. and stages its famous Loveparade in mid-July. If you are schwul (shwool.96 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany enough for a wheelchair. all that matters is that two (or more) individuals travel together. you’ll find plenty to do in Deutschland. Berlin. Find information on the Web at www. too. Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians Germany is one of the most “developed” countries in the world when it comes to gay pride. Frankfurt. in small towns and large.” earlier in this section). and gay tourism. bars. A network of gay or gay-friendly restaurants. parades and special events celebrate gay and Cologne all have large gay communities. Gay and lesbian couples (or friends) qualify for family tickets on public transportation in many Germany cities. lesbian). although calling ahead to make arrangements and getting directions to special entrances and/or elevators always is a good idea. historical areas. gay culture. most restaurants are happy to accommodate people with disabilities. Hamburg. Most of the top sights in the country are wheelchair accessible. Celebrating gay pride in Germany Every summer. but gay life flourishes outside the big cities. cafes. call first). the Köln-Düsseldorfer (KD) line has wheelchair-accessible boats (see Chapter 19 for more about KD and Rhine journeys). or use one of the travel agencies that specializes in travel for people with disabilities (see “Locating resources. and community centers exists throughout the country. you have to deal with cobblestones. celebrates its Christopher Street Day and Parade around the third weekend in June.

ߜ Cologne’s Christopher Street Weekend usually is the first weekend in June.cometogermany. with its section on gay and lesbian travel. Researching German lesbigay life on the Web The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. You can select a city in Germany and find out pertinent travel-related information. For information on the nearest IGLTA travel agent and gay-friendly resources in Germany. is a good place to begin researching your trip. because Berlin is such a great destination for gay tours). (By the way.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 97 Pride and politics Perhaps some of the openness of gay life in Germany today has to do with the murderous antihomosexual policies of the Nazis. Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators If you want to keep your hard-earned travel money pink. ߜ www. untold thousands of homosexuals were arrested and sent to their deaths in labor camps. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) maintains a worldwide network of gay and lesbian travelagent professionals who can help you plan your trip.pinkpassport.stadt. The following are just a few of the other Web sites you may want to check out as you begin to plan your trip to Germany: ߜ PinkPassport ( Germany seems to fall below the radar screen of most gay tour operators (too bad.”) .com). Between 1933 and 1945. Stadt means “city. you can use a gay travel One of the best all-purpose gay sites — albeit the Web site is in German — for lesbigay travelers planning a trip to Germany. ߜ Frankfurt’s Christopher Street Weekend takes place around the third weekend in July. de or www. ߜ Hamburg celebrates with a Gay Pride Parade and Festival around June 8 to This site is a destination service provider for international gay travelers. That may explain why German gays and lesbians today are so politically active and determined not to tolerate discrimination. Unfortunately.iglta. this site enables you to access a lesbigay guide for each city you want to visit. contact IGLTA (% 800-448-8550. leading up to and during World War II.

munich. banishment. and Buchenwald (Chapter 14).de or www. completed in Berlin in 2005 between the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz. Jewish life in Germany dates back hundreds of the largest in This free booklet presents an overview of Jewish history and lists recommended places to visit and what to and request a copy of Germany for the Jewish Traveler. contact the German National Tourist Office (www. I can’t even begin to scratch the surface of this huge and sensitive issue. Several places are dedicated to remembering the Jewish experience in this country.gaykoeln. Try the following Web sites for information on specific cities: www. synagogues have been restored. Germany’s Jewish population is the third-largest in Western Europe.frankfurt. . Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany In this guidebook. in large part because many Jewish people from the former Soviet Union are choosing to live in Germany. near Weimar.98 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ Specific city Web sites. The most moving memorials are at Dachau (Chapter 15).gay-web. For assistance in planning your itinerary. Large Jewish communities flourished in cities throughout Germany until the Nazi era. and memorials erected. One of the most remarkable is the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) in Berlin (Chapter 12).de or www. Special and very emotional issues confront Jewish visitors to Germany. and extermination policies created horrors that are almost beyond near Munich. www. Another is the Holocaust memorial. The Germany you visit today is a democratic federal republic sensitive to the past. when systematic persecution. Jews from all levels of society contributed to German culture. seizure of property and assets. Throughout the centuries. and www. numbering around 70. and one of the few that’s actually Throughout the

http://travel.S. passport office. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world. or probate court. State Department passport Web Australia.S. Applying for a U. D Getting a Passport A valid passport is the only legal form of identification accepted around the world. follow these steps: 1. . go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U.state. or a major post office. To find your regional passport office. state. passport If you’re applying for a first-time passport. Getting a passport is easy.Chapter 10 Taking Care of the Remaining Details In This Chapter ᮣ Obtaining a passport ᮣ Taking care of your health: Travel and medical insurance ᮣ Communicating via cellphone and e-mail ᮣ Dealing with airline security measures o you have an up-to-date passport? Have you taken steps to meet your health needs while on your trip? Are you wondering how to use a cellphone or access e-mail while in Germany? This chapter gives you the information you need.state.S. Complete a passport application in person at a U. State Department at http://travel. or passport.S. you must have a valid passport to enter Germany. a federal. either check the U.html. If you’re a citizen of the United States. but the process takes some time. You can’t cross an international border without one. or call the National Passport Information Center (% 877-487-2778) for automated information.

Ottawa. but applications must be submitted in person. 4. state or military ID.S.100 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany 2. You often find businesses that take these photos near a passport office. Whether you’re applying in person or by mail. In addition.state. Note: You can’t use a strip from a photo-vending machine because the pictures aren’t identical. or log on to www. ߜ Canadians can pick up applications at passport offices throughout Canada. Using this service. New Zealand. Applying for other passports The following list offers more information for citizens of Australia. Submit two identical passport-size photos. and paying the appropriate fees. a passport is valid for five years and costs $82. Present a certified birth certificate as proof of citizenship. Pay the fee. and from the central Passport Office. call the National Passport Agency (% 202-647-0518). Canada. For people 16 and older. call the Australia State Passport Office (% 131-232 toll-free from Australia). measuring 2 inches by 2 inches in com) is a service that can expedite the processing of your first-time passport application. You may submit digital photos that have been printed on your printer at home. 3. www. and the United Kingdom: ߜ Australians can visit a local post office or passport office. www. American Passport Express (% 800-455-5166.ppt. grainy-looking photos composed of visible dots are not but it can take longer during busy periods (especially spring).passports. State Department passport Web site (http://travel. Forms can be completed and printed online at the Web site. You can also . Ontario K1A 0G3 (% 800-567-6868.gc. For general information. you can download passport applications from the for details on how and where to apply. at post offices. you can receive your passport in as little as 24 hours. a passport is valid for ten years and costs $97. If you have a passport in your current name that was issued within the past 15 years and you were older than 16 when it was issued. you can renew the passport by mail for $67. or Social Security card also is a good the digital photographs must have a continuous-tone image that looks very photolike. For those 15 and younger.americanpassport. processing normally takes three weeks. but they must meet the same requirements for all passport photographs. Bringing along your driver’s license. Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport.

nz. and the type of trip you’re taking. or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. contact the Passports Office at % 0800225-050 in New Zealand or 04-474-8100. as many travelers discovered who tried to cancel their trips in October 2001 because they were wary of flying. need only an identity card. or log on to www. Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance Three kinds of travel insurance are available: trip-cancellation insurance. depending on the cost and length of your trip. carrying the document with you is a good idea. ߜ United Kingdom residents. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears. Make sure. to travel to other EU countries. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. if you have to go home early. as a member of the European Union. For govt. www. The cost of travel insurance varies widely. Protect yourself further by paying for the insurance with a credit card — by law. Here is my advice on all three: ߜ Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip. For more information.” a list of companies considered high-risk by Travel Guard International (www. However. Applications must be accompanied by two identical passport-size photographs and proof of Canadian citizenship. and lost-luggage insurance. Processing takes five to ten days if you apply in person. that the tour company is a reputable one. your age and health. or about three weeks by mail. not a passport.ukpa. but expect to pay between 5 percent and 8 percent of the vacation itself. Some experts suggest you avoid buying insurance from .travel insured. Note: Many tour operators include insurance in the cost of the trip or can arrange insurance policies through a partnering provider. however. if you already have a passport. contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (% 0870-521-0410. though. such as Germany.) A good resource is “Travel Guard Alerts. ߜ New Zealanders can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the Passports Office Web site. consumers can get their money back on goods and services not received if they report the loss within 60 days after the charge is listed on their credit-card medical insurance.passports.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 101 download an application form from the Passport Office Web site. a convenient and often cost-effective way for the traveler to obtain

www. The airlines are required to deliver per ticketed passenger. For most airlines. up to approximately $635 per checked bag. you must report delayed. immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport. or lost baggage within four hours of arrival. find out whether your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy.102 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the tour or cruise company you’re traveling with. ߜ Lost-luggage insurance is not necessary for most or Travel Assistance International (TAI) (% 800-821-2828. com).com). www. Travel Guard International (% 800-826-4919. For travel overseas. damaged. and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront before reimbursing you only after you return home. you may want to buy travel medical insurance. because many valuables (including books. For more information.07 per pound. baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9. Travel Insured International (% 800-243-3174.worldwide assistance. Even if your plan covers overseas treatment. As a safety net. most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage. www. www. try MEDEX Assistance (% 410-4536300. . On domestic flights. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability. www. once found. saying it’s better to buy from a third-party insurer than to put all your money in one place. On international flights (including U. If you require additional medical insurance. www. or Travelex Insurance Services (% 888457-4602. most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront and send you a refund only after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance contact TAI’s service provider. get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travelinsurance package. directly to your house or destination free of charge. Don’t buy insurance at the airport. for general information on TAI’s services. checked baggage is covered for up to $2. or buy the BagTrak product from Travel Guard (% 800-826-4919. because it’s usually overpriced. and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. detailing the luggage contents. portions of international trips). If your luggage is lost. travelinsured. contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (% 866-807-3982. Worldwide Assistance Services (% Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage.travelassistance. www. money.

For conditions such as epilepsy. pronounced artst. you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. and they take turns staying open all night and on weekends. (Remember: Current airline security regulations do not allow you to carry on liquids in containers larger than 3 ounces. Bring all your medications with you. the number for general emergencies. talk to your doctor before leaving on a trip. the bugs weren’t listening to me any more than they probably listen to you). not brand-name. go to any pharmacy. If you have an emergency and need a prescription filled after-hours or on weekends. cdc. (Arzt. see the previous section. and prescriptions for more (in generic. If you have a serious and/or chronic Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (% 800-311-3435. is the German word for a medical doctor. in Canada.) At night and on weekends. Pharmacies are open regular shopping for tips about travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and lists of local English-speaking doctors. ask the concierge or hotelkeeper to recommend a local doctor. form) if you worry that you’ll run out. www. so I strongly advise against it (of course. The U.) A pharmacy in Germany is called an Apotheke (pronounced ah-po-tay-kuh). In a life-threatening situation. . com.istm. For domestic trips. sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners. make sure the box or container has the pharmacy’s label with your name on it. may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (% 716-754-4883 or. The word for hospital is Krankenhaus (pronounced kronk-in-house). The Web site www. you can call the Ärtzlicher Notdienst (Medical Emergency Service) listed in the telephone directory. For travel abroad. For information on purchasing additional medical insurance for your trip. wear a MedicAlert identification tag (% 888-633-4298.S. dial % 112 (a free call anywhere in Germany). A notice will be posted in the window providing the address and telephone number of the closest on-duty pharmacy. most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. If you fall ill while traveling. 416-652-0137. if you need to carry medications with you provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www. which immediately alerts doctors to your condition and gives them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 103 Staying Healthy When You Travel Getting sick will ruin your vacation.tripprep. or heart problems. iamat. medicalert. last time I checked. diabetes. www.

and you have a world-capable multiband phone — many Sony Ericsson. and renting a phone in Germany. not all phones work on all networks.50 in western Europe. Many cellphone operators sell “locked” phones that restrict you from using any removable computer memory phone chip (called a SIM card) other than the ones they supply. For many.) You’ll get a local phone number — and much. Having an unlocked phone enables you to install a cheap. In the U. although possible. Using a cellphone outside the U.104 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail The cheapest and easiest way to call home from Germany. seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. including kiosks at airports . phone won’t work in Germany without a special chip. Collecting e-mail is fairly easy in Germany: If you can’t do it at your hotel. The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles). If you’re accustomed to using a cellphone. For that reason. In this section. Motorola. and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM.S. Unfortunately. Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. from Andorra to Uganda. However. If you have an unlocked phone. renting a phone is a good idea. in Canada. (Show your phone to the salesperson. much lower calling rates. costs a lot. keep in mind that your U. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. That’s why it’s important to buy an “unlocked” world phone from the get-go. the staff will be able to direct you to the nearest cybercafe. only a limited number of carriers use GSM.S. you’ll be asked for proof of residency. prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in Germany. I’ve found. Getting an already-locked phone unlocked can be a complicated process. is to use a prepaid phone card and the hotel phone. a big. or Samsung models are so equipped — you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe. so you need to check with your carrier. you either need to have a friend or relative in Germany purchase the card for you or buy one in North America before your departure. If your cellphone is on a GSM system. just call your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to use the phone with a local provider.S. per-minute charges can be high — usually $1 to $1. Although you can rent a phone from any number of German sites. I provide general information on using cellphones and sending or receiving e-mail in Germany. but it can be done. you can purchase a prepaid German SIM card with call credit already incorporated and easily add more talk time to the SIM card if needed. if you want to purchase a German SIM card in Germany.

local rental companies often offer free incoming calls within their home countries. plus airtime fees of at least a dollar a minute. and tourist information offices around the world. These kiosks. give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. Phone rental isn’t Accessing the Internet away from home You have any number of ways to check your e-mail and access the Internet on the road. which you’ll also see in shopping malls. EST. And most public libraries around the world offer Internet access free or for a small charge. Aside from formal cybercafes.roadpost. a mobile phone is called a Handy (pronounced as it’s spelled). make sure the phone works. InTouch also will advise you for free on whether your existing phone will work overseas. But even if you don’t have a computer.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 105 and at car-rental agencies.cybercafe.htm. or go to http://intouch Of course. Although no definitive directory exists for cybercafes — they are. Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. most youth hostels nowadays have at least one computer with Internet access. .m. Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (% 800-872-7626. and 4 p. and www.intouchglobal. If you’re traveling to Europe. you still can access your e-mail and even your office computer from cybercafes. That way you can give loved ones and business associates your new number. Give them your itinerary. The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price mean they need to be avoided whenever possible. I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. Some business centers in large luxury hotels are free for and RoadPost (% 888-290-1606 or 905-2725665. The bottom line: Shop around. independent businesses — two places to start looking are at where local phone-rental agencies often bill in local currency and may not let you take the phone to another country. hotel lobbies. after all. www. which can save you big bucks. www. and take the phone wherever you go — especially helpful for overseas trips through several countries. simply call % 703222-7161 between 9 a.cybercaptive.m. and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need. using your own laptop — or even a personal digital assistant (PDA) or electronic organizer with a modem — gives you the most flexibility. You’ll usually pay $40 to $50 per week. In Germany. but others charge high rates to go online. Finding a city in Germany that doesn’t have a few cybercafes is hard to do.

The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere — even a cybercafe — provided your target PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). (followed by the U.106 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany To retrieve your e-mail.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account automatically. Best of all. primarily in the U. and per-minute plans. per-connection. use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe computer to access the GoToMyPC system.11b wireless Ethernet connection).gotomypc. Going Wireless If you’re bringing your own computer.000 Starbucks coffee shops nationwide. If you need to access files on your office computer. Some places also provide free wireless networks in cities around the world. and retailers are signing on as wireless hotspots where you can get highspeed connection without cable wires. . For more flexibility. iPass ( have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies.K. but Hotmail has severe spam problems. but if you’re worried about hackers. cafes. the current buzzword in computer access is WiFi (wireless fidelity). and coffee shops. just set yourself up on a nice couch in the To locate these free hotspots.wayport. you can plug an and Wayport ( index. Boingo (www. The companies’ pricing policies can be byzantine. you can use the free mail2web service (www.ipass. look into a service called GoToMyPC (www. through a plan offered by one of several commercial companies that have made wireless service available in airports. hotel lobbies. and more and more hotels. Many laptops sold during the last year have built-in WiFi capability (an 802. If your ISP doesn’t have such an interface.boingo. but in general you pay around $30 a month for limited access — and as more and more companies jump on the wireless bandwagon. Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail. com) providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. and Japan). T-Mobile Hotspot (http://hotspot. networking hardware.cgi/ to view and reply to your home e-mail. you may want to open a free. If you have an older computer.11b/WiFi card (around $50) into your go to www. prices are likely to get even more competitive. with a variety of monthly.personaltelco. you don’t need to be staying at the Four Seasons to use the hotel’s network. The service offers top-quality serves up wireless connections at more than 1. ask your Internet service provider (ISP) whether it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account. Mac owners have their own networking technology called Apple You sign up for wireless access service much as you do cellphone service. (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option. or a phone line.t-mobile.

Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. If you’re traveling outside the reach of your ISP. and you’ll be required to show your passport at that and click on “Individual Purchase. If you have an E-ticket. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in. but they do for international flights to most countries. if you’re flying on to Germany you’ll have to use the “oldfashioned” airport check-in at the airline’s ticket counter.) If you’re using a kiosk at the airport. Wherever you go. you can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from your home computer. government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport (for international flights. if you show up late. the iPass network has dial-up numbers in most of the world’s countries. Keeping Up with Airline Security With the federalization of airport security.S. www. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. security procedures at U. you’ll be . tell an airline employee and she’ll probably whisk you to the front of the line.ipass. Generally.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 107 If WiFi isn’t available.” One solid provider is i2roam (% 866-811-6209 or 920-235-0475. go to www. you’ll be fine as long as you arrive at the airport one hour before a domestic flight and two hours before an international flight. and printing out your boarding pass — and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider. Call your hotel in advance to see what your options are. a spare phone cord. (At present. major ISPs have local access numbers around the world. (Children younger than 18 do not need government-issued photo IDs for domestic flights. and many hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable. and a spare Ethernet network cable — or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. and sometimes even the gate.S. Bring a current. bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline’s Web site. enabling you to go online by simply placing a local call. Check your ISP’s Web site or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home. and how much it will most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems. online check-in is available for domestic flights only. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat. the security checkpoint. For a list of iPass providers. In addition. And E-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. accessing your reservation. bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters.) The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U.i2roam. you will need to show your passport at check-in). airports. which then tells you how to set up your computer for your destination.

Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. Security-checkpoint lines are getting shorter. and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine — but security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee cup. call before you public/index. These locks are approved by the TSA and can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. plus a personal item. it’s still considered a personal item. check its Web site (www. nail clippers are okay. as long as it has a laptop in it.travelsentry. You can now purchase luggage locks that enable screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary.S. Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available.brookstone.108 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany able to do so using most airline kiosks. because explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate.jsp) for details. For more information on the locks. or laptop bag. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time. . are allowed one carry-on bag. If you’ve got metallic body parts. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items. com). however. for some reason) for bombs. but some doozies remain. visit www. Look for Travel Sentry–certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at the airline will provide a wheelchair. Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system. Bring food in your carryon instead of checking it. except for folks escorting disabled passengers or children. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks. a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag. Travelers in the U. such as a purse. The general rule is that sharp things are out. your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage. Curbside check-in also is a good way to avoid lines. a few airlines still ban curbside check-in. Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. tell an airline employee. briefcase.

Part III Northern and Eastern Germany .

Since reunification in 1990. the region’s largest city and greatest port. Chapter 11 fills you in on all the Berlin basics: getting there. or Bremen. . getting around. Leipzig. . I tell you all about Hamburg. eastern Germany has been in the midst of a major building and rebuilding boom. historic panache. and nowhere more so than in Berlin.H In this part . In Chapter 14. the country’s “new” capital. a busy business city where the “peaceful revolution” began. and location on the Elbe River. with its superb museums. istory has left its mark throughout northern and eastern Germany. I also tell you about visiting the Thuringian Forest and taking a boat trip into the scenic region known as Saxon Switzerland. with so many historic buildings that UNESCO recognizes the city as a World Heritage Site. I introduce you to the best places to visit in this newly opened region: Dresden. I devote Chapter 12 to exploring the largest and most exciting city in Germany. In Chapter 14. I devote two chapters to Berlin. . From Hamburg you can make an easy side trip to beautiful Lübeck. Northern Germany. city of Goethe and one of Germany’s cultural jewels. is the focus of Chapter 13. and finding the best hotels and restaurants. All three of these cities were members of the powerful Hanseatic League that ruled the seas and dominated trade in northern Europe for hundreds of years. and Weimar. bordering the Baltic and the North Sea. full of proud reminders of its seafaring past.

you see a city in transition. and Russian sectors. Berliners. In many ways it’s a new city — and yet. Berlin was split in two. Berlin once again is the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany. Your experiences can be as sophisticated. But. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. present. When you’re in Berlin. even if you don’t speak German. By the end of World War II (WWII). artistic brilliance. physically and politically. cultured. a fizz and a flair and a drive that you find nowhere else in Germany. and bus ᮣ Choosing your hotel ᮣ Picking a good restaurant ᮣ Finding a cafe or brewpub erlin is. even as the city reinvents itself yet again..” That old song lyric meaning “Berlin always remains Berlin” still holds true. Their cosmopolitan live-and-let-live attitude. train. endless political upheaval. British. during the Berlin Airlift of 1948. laced with sharp-edged humor and sarcastic irreverence. You can dive into Berlin on many levels. or raunchy as you want them to be. and future meet and meld all over the place. Later. perhaps because they’ve been through so much. and I would urge anyone visiting Germany to spend at least a couple of days here. part of the reason why a visit here is so intriguing. gives the city an added bite. and for almost 30 years. You feel a sense of immediacy in Berlin because everything is happening at once — past. The wall went up in 1961. the most exciting city in Europe.” B .Chapter 11 Settling Into Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Berlin ᮣ Traveling from the airport into the city ᮣ Orienting yourself to the neighborhoods ᮣ Getting around by subway. Now. Berlin has a kind of inexhaustible energy. with the wall down and Deutschland reunited. have always been a breed apart. both triumph and tragedy. for my money. and Nazi terror — and survived to tell the tale. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. This city has seen it all — Prussian power. The city then was divided into U.S. much of Berlin was reduced to smoldering rubble. food and supplies had to be flown in because the Soviets blockaded the city.

. is on the outskirts of central Berlin in Reinickedorf. On the where you also find the taxi stand. which travels down Kurfürstendamm and takes about 30 minutes.10€ ($2. Friedrichstrasse. connects to the Jakob-Kaiser-Platz U-Bahn (underground train) station. airlines to offer direct flights to Berlin from within the United States (Continental flies from Newark to Berlin ߜ Bus X9. Buses arrive outside the airport terminal.50). To get into central Berlin from Tegel. use euro coins (no bills) to buy your ticket from the driver. Berlin has two airports. and Unter den Linden in Mitte.m. you find currency-exchange windows and a small branch of the tourist information center (no phone. At the train station. www.) where you can pick up free city-transit maps and general-interest brochures and buy a bus ticket into town. Four buses run from the airport into central Berlin.) ߜ TXL Express Bus runs about every ten minutes between the airport and Potsdamer Platz. From there you can change to the subway and reach any destination.–7 p. train. see “Getting Around Berlin. On all other flights from the United States.112 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Getting There You can arrive in Germany’s capital and largest city by plane. ߜ A taxi ride to central Berlin (east or west) costs 16€ to 20€ ($20– $25) and takes about 20 minutes. The X9 takes about 20 minutes to reach Zoo Station. depending on what airline you use. The facility recently was revamped to make it more passenger-friendly. both with easy public-transportation connections to the city at standard public fares. Delta flies from New York JFK to Berlin Tegel). Another bus that goes to Zoo Station is Bus 109. tickets for each of them cost 2. The X9 also goes to the Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). Berlin’s main tourist information center is at the nearby Europa Center (see “Finding Information After You Arrive” later in this chapter). Berlin’s main and most convenient airport. or car. By plane Continental and Delta are the only U. another express bus. you have to change planes in Frankfurt or another European city. you can connect to the U-Bahn or the S-Bahn (elevated train). you can take a bus or taxi. the central train station in the western part of the city near Kurfürstendamm. (For information on public transportation. the regular two-zone A/B fare. Inside the terminal. open daily 7:30 a.” later in this chapter.m. the “new” center of Berlin. Arriving at Berlin International Airport in Tegel Tegel (TXL) airport (% 0180/5000-186.

eastern sector. now mostly used for low-cost airlines and European charter is the old East Berlin airport.S. reunified Berlin was . The S-Bahn station is a ten-minute walk from the airport terminal. stopping at Alexanderplatz and Fredrichstrasse in Berlin Mitte (eastern Berlin). call the Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). and Bahnhof Zoo (about a 30minute journey) in the western center of Berlin. The airport also was the base for the Berlin Airlift in 1948. the U. Tempelhof was closed in October 2004 and a massive $4-billion expansion of Schönefeld airport now is underway. Until 2006. www. a shuttle service that runs from the airport to the S-Bahn station and the Rudow U-Bahn station. Tegel also will close. subways (U-Bahn). or you can take Bus 171. Arriving at Berlin-Schönefeld Schönefeld (SXF) (% 01805/000-186. in 2011. an S-Bahn that leaves the Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld station about every 20 minutes for central Berlin. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). For 24-hour train information. Taxis wait outside the The easiest way to get into town from this airport is by Airport Express. From the U-Bahn station. and other Allied forces brought food and supplies to the city during the Soviet blockade.hbf-berlin. while another airport. Europe’s newest and largest train station. The Hauptbahnhof and all of Berlin’s smaller railway stations (for regional service) are connected to public buses. was Berlin’s main airport during the Third Reich. Bus. built in the 1920s. Europa Platz 1 (% 0800-1507090 for train schedules. A taxi ride to the Alexanderplatz area in Mitte takes about 45 to 60 minutes and costs about 50€ ($62). when U. By train You can reach Berlin by train from everywhere in Europe. Schönefeld. All longdistance trains now arrive and depart from the spectacular new Hauptbahnhof (main train station). or S-Bahn fare is 2.50). During the Cold War.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 113 A tale of three airports Tempelhof. All air traffic will then be consolidated into a single hub called Berlin Brandenburg International Airport. www. When the project is completed.S. As part of a new plan for Berlin airports.10€ ($2.-built Tegel airport served West Berlin. when this spectacular new travel hub opened. Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof All long-distance high-speed trains now arrive at and depart from the Hauptbahnhof. located about 24km (15 miles) southeast of the city. served travelers to the city’s Communist. you can take the U7 subway to Bahnhof Zoo in about 50 minutes.

where you can purchase train tickets and make seat reservations (both centers open daily 6 a.–10 p. The drive from Frankfurt or Munich takes about eight hours. and theaters (half-price tickets are sold for performances that day). three enter from the east. Unless you know this huge city well. Now. to 10 p.m.–10 p. Unless you arrive by a local. for the first time in its history. you’ll be pulling into this remarkable. the pavilion is open daily from 6 a. . a car is a nuisance.75). the main artery in western Berlin. and elevated trains (S-Bahn).m. it’s now used only for regional trains but remains a busy hub for local U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains. the SchauLUST Museum Pass (see Chapter 12). for general driving tips in the city. maps and Berlin-related books. depending on traffic. The fate of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Usually called Bahnhof Zoo (Zoo Station. Whether you’re staying in western or eastern Berlin. Trains arrive and depart on the lowest level (track numbers easily identified).m. getting around by public transportation is far easier than by car. the name given to Berlin’s tourist information centers.114 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany served by several smaller stations. buy the Berlin Welcome Card (described under “Getting Around Berlin. Here you can use the hotel booking service (3€/$3. The station has two travel centers. regional train. On the main floor at the north end of the station there’s a BERLIN infostore (open daily 8 a. Hardenbergplatz 11.m. getting to your hotel from the Hauptbahnhof couldn’t be easier. After you’re in Berlin. In fact. At the BVG-Pavilion outside the station.m. Inside the station. you’ll want to keep the car parked at your hotel or in a garage. and tickets to all of Berlin’s opera houses. however.m.” later in this chapter. to 9 p.). underground trains (U-Bahn).” later in this chapter). user-friendly terminal. to handle train tickets and information. Located close to Kurfürstendamm. concert venues. See “Driving a car. where you find dozens of shops and food options. Berlin has one central station.m. The entrance to the S-Bahn (marked by a green S) is on the second floor of the station. you can pick up a free public-transportation map and buy tickets and special passes for buses. the train travel office Reisezentrum Bahnhof Zoo (% 030/19419) is open daily from 7 a. this was the main western train station until the Hauptbahnhof opened in 2006.m.). By car Four Autobahn (freeway) routes enter Berlin from western Germany. elevators (the entire station is barrier-free) or escalators carry you up to the first and second floors.000 travelers every day with a minimum of confusion. It’s an enormous place but it’s been designed to facilitate up to 300. % 01805/996-633). the entrance to the U-Bahn (marked by a U) is on the first floor.

is the major transportation hub on the western side of the city and a good landmark for orienting yourself. Kurfürstendamm 21 (at Joachimstaler Strasse).m. open daily from 10 a. to 7 p. in the Hauptbahnhof (see “Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof. and Sunday from 10 a.m.m.. the first and simplest way to understand Berlin is still to think in terms of the old political boundaries of West and East. near the Ku-Damm. It’s open daily from 10 a. close to Bahnhof Zoo (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). Berlin is one of the world’s largest cities.. or the Ku-Damm for short. to 6 p. to 8 p. The office is open Monday to Saturday 10 a. The zoo . and half-price music and theater tickets.m.m. West Berlin’s glitziest artery was — and remains — the 4km-long (21⁄2mile) boulevard known as Kurfürstendamm. West Berlin was an island of capitalism inside Communist East Germany. showier. The train station Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten.m. and wilder than its drab eastern counterpart.m.–6 p. Orienting Yourself in Berlin Covering some 60 square miles. ߜ In eastern Berlin.m. Berlin has five walk-in infostores: ߜ The main office in western Berlin is in the newly revamped shopping “passage” called Neues Kranzler Eck.m. to 6 p. The city’s main attractions now are spread almost evenly across the whole city. Even though the wall has been down since 1989.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 115 Finding Information After You Arrive At a BERLIN infostore. West Berlin was richer. (Nov–Mar daily 10 a.75). open daily 8:30 a. ߜ Another infostore is located under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at Alexanderplatz.m. bus and subway tickets. You can also buy the Berlin Welcome Card (see “Transportation basics” later in this chapter).).” earlier in this chapter).m.m.40€ (50¢) per minute. The infostores operate one information line (% 030/25-00-25). Scheidermannstrasse. For first-time visitors. open Monday through Friday from 8 a..m.).m. to 6 p. (See the “Berlin Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.m. complex metropolis can be difficult.–6 p.m.m. it costs a minimum of 0.m. to 6 p. getting a handle on this sprawling. and in the Berlin Pavilion at the Reichstag. to 8 p. (Nov–Mar 10 a.) Introducing western Berlin From 1961 to 1989. you can find information or book a hotel room (for a fee of 3€/$3. you find infostore branches in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). weekends 9 a. or Bahnhof Zoo for short. the SchauLUST museum pass (Chapter 12).

Bismarckstr Ha Str. Damm eler kanal Goerd thafen Munich Wes trasse ohrn-S Max-D . Ott oSuh rAlle e nkl inst r Schloss Charlottenburg M . Wittenbergplatz Kle Kons tan Stras zer se Uhlandstr. orfe Wilm e rsd Friedrich- TIERGARTEN S . ms t isha Lew Europa Center urger Lietzenb i s ts tr.116 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Berlin Neighborhoods Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Kur t-Sc h um ach er D am m SIEMENSSTADT SIEMENSSTADT To Berlin-Tegel Airport sse se tra s es stra e S e Se See “Charlottenburg Attractions” map Putlitzstrasse Lessin gstrasse Stromstr. ch g is b ur Brande n a sse Str m am nd ler l o z en oh er dt tä lfs do Ru r he ru hs e ric ass ied tr Fr S e See “Western Berlin Accomodations and Dining” map e ss ra St WILMERSDORF . Neue Kantstrasse CHARLOTTENBURG S Kantstrasse Leibniz- Savignyplatz S en rd be rg s tr ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN .Augusta. See “Tiergarten-area Attractions” map Hohenst aufenstr. gens Sickin S i e m e ns s tra sse MOABIT Turmstra sse e wstrass Quitzo r e rg be e rle ass Pe Str Beusselstrasse Tegeler ier str end as or se ff- Schlossgarten Kaiserin. m dam rsten Kurfü HALENSEE S H Fehrbelliner Platz Bundesallee Grunewald S HOHENZOLLERNDAMM H m am nd r lle zo en oh SCHÖNEBERG rg bu se len tras k ec S M he isc S Hundekehlestrasse Breit e St rass e SCHÖNEBERG Dahlem FRIEDENAU Ha up tst ras se r. S WESTKREUZ S SAVIGNYPLATZ m dam rsten Kurfü Tau en tz Str ass e er pest Budarasse St ien str . Olbe ssstr Gau strassrse tr. CHARLOTTENBURG Spandau Kaiserdamm Ma stra rchsse B str achass e strasse Weg TIERGARTEN Le ve tzo ws tra sse BELLEVUE S HANSAVIERTEL 17.Allee F ra mm Spandauer Da Spree Ca ue rst r. Strasse des Juni Kaiser r Str.

5 mi N 0. Spre e strasse nan m se re St se as str T wBülo sse stra S-Bahn stop S .5 km PRENZLAUER BERG Prin zen stra sse Str as se t Rosen en alid Inv S sse stra ck. S .platz FRIEDRICHht c e STRASSE kn b S Lie rl Ka Mo lls t r.Pie elm h il W O ra n ien S Strass e HAUPTBAHNHOF– LEHRTER BAHNHOF Sp ree Pariser Platz S bur HACKESCHER ger Str MARKT Alexander.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 117 WEDDING Schönhauser Allee nn Fe se as str s au Ch e ss tra es se NORDBAHNHOF S 0 0 0. Str as se M da üh m len m - den Unter den Lin Friedrich- Museumsinsel NIKOLAIVIERTEL Ge rt str raud as en se - Kar l-M arx -Al lee JANNOWITZBRÜCKE TIERGARTEN UNTER DEN LINDEN BERLINMITTE S n d w ehrkanal Schöneb Potsda mer S tra sse e ANHALTER BAHNHOF Lin den stra s La S fe r em p e l hofe r Ufe Gitschiner Strasse r La n d sse stra rck o Y S Gne is YORCKSTRASSE KREUZBERG enau stras se Kolonnenstrasse Katzbackstrasse Dudenstrasse Columbiadamm asse nstr hafe Flug To BerlinSchönefeld Airport B o elck es trasse Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Hei nric Strah-Hein sse e- POTSDAMER S Leipziger Platz PLATZ e Leipziger Strass se Or an ien str ass e wehrka nal Urb a nst ras se Hase nheid e Brü stra cken sse - Gr eif sw al d er e ass str ide He rg U er h al e r St rasse Invalidenst e rass See Berlin-Mitte maps d e rs xan Ale tr.

Starting in the 1960s and 1970s. Dahlem originally was established as an independent village to the southwest of Berlin’s center. This neighborhood no longer is a convenient place to stay. rises just across the plaza from the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis Kirche (Memorial Church) near the Ku-Damm and Zoo Station. The area is more residential than hotel-oriented. the area was rebuilt as a middle-class neighborhood. near Potsdamer Platz. with lots of bars and clubs. Although gentrification is taking place. Kreuzberg is where you find the new Jüdisches (Jewish) Museum and the small museum called Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. the neighborhood remains funky around the edges. which has plenty of hotels and pensions (B&Bs). many of whom have now lived here for 30 years or more. because they have an interior courtyard) constructed for the workers of a rapidly industrializing Prussia. dedicated to the history of divided Berlin. the Bröham Museum. one of Berlin’s three opera houses. and cafes fill the neighborhood around Savignyplatz. Charlottenburg’s regal centerpiece is Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace). a shopping center and entertainment complex. cafes. Charlottenburg also is the home of the Deutsche Oper Berlin (German Opera House). Schöneberg Like Kreuzberg. and department stores. which runs through it. Charlottenburg The district known as Charlottenburg is the wealthiest and most commercialized in western Berlin. you find the best concentration of hotels. about 35 percent of its population is composed of Gastarbeiter (guest workers) from Turkey. shops. a tree-lined square a short walk north of Kurfürstendamm. however. nightclubs. restaurants. After WWII. Kreuzberg traditionally has been the poorest and most crowded of western Berlin’s districts. Upscale shops. and the Berggruen Sammlung (Collection). and Greece. The borough is centrally located. Dahlem was the site of western Berlin’s major museums. Dahlem Now the university district. Along the famous Ku-Damm. restaurants. most of them have now moved farther into the city. The 22-story Europa Center. the former Yugoslavia. makes a convenient base for visitors. Kreuzberg Filled with 19th-century tenement buildings (called Hinterhof. Charlottenburg. a beautiful park stretching east and ending at the cultural center known as the Kulturforum. the district became home to the city’s artistic countercultural scene. Schöneberg developed in the 19th century as an independent suburb for workers. theaters. Today.118 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany itself is part of the Tiergarten. with its lovely gardens and nearby museums: the Ägyptisches (Egyptian) Museum. but you may want to come here to visit the Brücke Museum. close to . Up until reunification.

I recommend giving this fascinating area at least a full day of your time. is lined with 18th. also is in Berlin-Mitte.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 119 the Ku-Damm. just off Unter den Linden. The Hansaviertel (Hans Quarter). in fact. which starts at the Brandenburg Gate and extends east. also called Stadtmitte (City Center) or just plain Mitte (Center). is where you find the magnificently restored early-19th-century Schauspielhaus (theater). Tiergarten The name Tiergarten means “Animal Garden. Both areas formerly stood behind the Berlin Wall and now are full of new buildings and ongoing construction.-km (15-sq. Tiergarten is one of the best areas in Berlin for hotels and restaurants. originally intended as a backdrop to the grand avenues laid out by the German kaisers.” and it refers both to western Berlin’s massive urban park and a business-residential district of the same name. is the new name of the central section of former East Berlin. with good U-Bahn connections and many hotels and pensions. occupying the northwest section of Tiergarten. This 38-sq. Closer in. the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) Berlin-Mitte. the famed Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). (The Komische Oper. toward the Ku-Damm.and 19th-century palaces and monuments. contains a series of residential buildings designed in the late 1950s by different architects. this area was. now called Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt and used for . Wilmersdorf is a quiet residential neighborhood filled with an excellent assortment of hotels and pensions and plenty of low-key restaurants and cafes. and other museums. Walter Gropius. Berlin’s third opera house.-mile) lake-filled forest begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm and is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. Berlin’s densest concentration of gay bars and clubs is in Schöneberg between Nollendorfplatz and Victoria-Luise-Platz. including Le Corbusier. the center of Berlin. Wilmersdorf The huge park called the Grünewald (groo-nuh-vald) takes up the western portion of this borough. on the east side of Tiergarten park. Berlin-Mitte symbolically begins at Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. The grand boulevard called Unter den Linden. and Alvar Aalto. home of the Philharmonic (Philharmonic Hall). contains the Berlin Zoo in its southwest corner. The oldest and most historic part of Berlin. All in all. Tiergarten also is where you find the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag (Parliament) building. Wannsee is the most popular lake for swimming and boating. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is the main opera house in eastern Berlin. Berlin-Mitte has numerous attractions. Before the war and the division of the city. The Tiergarten park. Wilmersdorf is a very pleasant borough in which to stay. The Tiergarten neighborhood also contains the Kulturforum.) The beautiful neoclassical square called Gendarmenmarkt.

buses. For a map of Berlin’s U-Bahn and S-Bahn. Gay and lesbian visitors may want to explore Prenzlauer Berg’s burgeoning gay cafe and club scene. is now the hippest neighborhood in eastern Berlin and a favored spot for young Berliners to live. site of four major museums. convenient. Except to check out the ongoing gentrification. and not to everyone’s liking: Eight skyscrapers will eventually surround Alexanderplatz and reduce the prominence of the Soviet-era Fernsehturm (TV tower). At the eastern end of Unter den Linden. (1. Going public: U-Bahn. Luxury boutiques and department stores crowd the street. short-term travelers will find little of interest. was the center of activity in the Soviet era. Period taverns and riverside restaurants make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque stroll. which intersects Unter den Linden. Berlin has a comprehensive public transportation system.bvg. the transportation hub of Berlin-Mitte. The following sections describe the various options you have for getting from place to place. is regaining its prewar reputation as Berlin’s preeminent shopping street. the S-Bahn (surface or elevated train). ferries on the lakes. northeast of Mitte.120 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany concerts. just south of Alexanderplatz along the Spree River. and relatively inexpensive. Prenzlauer Berg. The system consists of the U-Bahn (underground train). see the inside back cover of this book. at 368 m. You can also buy . www. Transportation basics You can buy your ticket at any U-Bahn station (at windows or machines that have English translations) or from a bus driver. Friedrichstrasse.). and Strassenbahn Berlin’s excellent public-transportation system makes getting around fast. a square named for Russian Czar Alexander I. S-Bahn. you find the marvelous Museumsinsel (Museum Island).de). safe. and even dedicated walkers won’t be able to cover it entirely on foot. It’s now being completely redone. This well-integrated public-transport system is run by BVG.207 ft. Alexanderplatz. one of the highest structures in Europe. Getting Around Berlin Berlin is a huge city. Luckily. Berlin’s Transport Authority (% 030/19449 24hour information line. and a few Strassenbahnen (streetcars) that still operate in eastern Berlin only. U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines converge at Friedrichstrasse train station. bus. is a charming area restored to look as it did (with some contemporary touches) in Berlin’s medieval and baroque eras. The Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter).

In each car. When purchasing tickets for public transportation. B. you’re guilty of Schwarzfahren (black travel) and fined 75€ ($94) on the spot. and C). consider the Berlin Welcome Card. S-Bahn (elevated train) The venerable elevated train system in Berlin is called the S-Bahn. Long-term tickets are validated only once. which are announced. All your sightseeing within the Berlin city limits will be in zones A and B. you also have several money-saving options.10€ ($2. B. One ticket enables you to change from U-Bahn to S-Bahn and to the bus during a two-hour period. For short hops (3 consecutive U.m.50). The entire transportation system runs on an honor system — you won’t find turnstiles or ticket collectors. The card is good for all public transportation in central Berlin (zones A.50). If yours hasn’t been validated. A regular Normaltarif or Einzelfahrscheine (one-way fare). Thirteen lines cover most of central Berlin. and C) and provides price reductions of up to 50 percent at many tourist attractions in Berlin. the following day and costs 5. directly outside Zoo Station. they intersect at Bahnhof Zoo. Service is fast and efficient. ߜ If you’re in Berlin for two days. You must validate your ticket by sticking it into one of the validation boxes on all U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms or inside buses and streetcars. all the way to Potsdam. which costs 16€ ($18) for 48 hours or 22€ ($24) for 72 hours.80€ ($7.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 121 tickets and passes (and receive a free transportation map) at the BVGPavillion on Hardenbergplatz. you can get a Kurzstrecke (short-stretch) ticket for 1. good for two hours in zones A and B is 2. to 10 p.m. Zone C extends far beyond the city’s borders.or S-Bahn stops or 6 stops on a bus or streetcar).m. before your first trip. U-Bahn (underground train) The subway in Berlin is called the U-Bahn. you find a map of the stops. the office is open daily from 6 a.20€ ($1. Nine lines crisscross the city in all directions and extend to the far reaches of Brandenburg. each car contains a map of . A large U in a blue box identifies each station. The fare is based on three zones (A. ߜ The 7-Tage-Karte (7-day ticket) costs 25€ ($32) for zones A and B. including the following: ߜ A Tageskarte (day ticket) is good on all forms of transportation from validation until 3 a. Ticket inspectors may suddenly appear to check everyone’s ticket.25) for zones A and B. but after midnight only two lines — U9 and U2 — run on a limited schedule. and the routes are clearly marked in all stations and in the trains.

122 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
the stops, which are announced. A large S in a green circle identifies each station. S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations sometimes overlap, so you can change from one to the other. Service is basically nonexistent after midnight. The S-Bahn is particularly handy if you’re going from Bahnhof Zoo east to the Friedrichstrasse/Unter den Linden area or southwest to Grünewald and the lakes.

Riding atop one of Berlin’s double-decker buses (single-deckers also operate) is a fun way to see the city. A green H (for Haltstelle, or stop) in a yellow circle identifies each stop. Regular service begins about 5 a.m. and ends about midnight. Night buses (designated with an N) leave every half-hour, going west and east, from Bahnhof Zoo and Bahnhof Hackescher Markt (near Alexanderplatz in eastern Berlin). One of the best and cheapest sightseeing routes is on Bus 100, which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and travels through the Tiergarten, passing Bellevue Palace (the Berlin residence of the German president), the Reichstag, and the Victory Column all the way to the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Museum Island, and Alexanderplatz.

Strassenbahn (streetcar)
Streetcars, called Strassenbahnen, run in eastern Berlin only. Because you can get practically everywhere on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you probably won’t be using the streetcar. Ticket prices are the same as for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and buses.

Taking a taxi
Thousands of ivory-colored taxis cruise Berlin’s main streets. Hailing one during the day is easier than at night. The fare starts at 2.50€ ($3.10) and costs 1.55€ ($1.90) per kilometer (1⁄2 mile). For short distances, flag down a taxi and ask for the Winktarif: a special rate (3€/ $3.75) for a short lift. To order a taxi, call % 210-101. Tip taxi drivers by rounding up to the nearest euro.

Driving a car
I don’t recommend renting ein Auto in Berlin. Local drivers tend to be aggressive, and the street system itself can be fiendishly difficult to navigate. The public-transport system gets you everywhere you want at a fraction of the cost. If you’re out very late, you can grab a cab to get back to your hotel. The only time a car may come in useful is when you want to explore the surrounding countryside. The offices for Hertz (Budapester Strasse 37; % 030/262-1053) and Avis (Budapester Strasse 43; % 030/230-9370) are close to Bahnhof Zoo.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


If you drive in town, be aware that the right lanes in inner-city areas are often reserved for buses, taxis, and bicycles only. When turning right, you must give way to any vehicle (including bikes) in that lane. Some right-hand lanes are reserved for buses at stated times and otherwise can be used by cars. Also remember that in Germany, using a mobile phone while driving is against the law. In Berlin and throughout Germany, cars can park only on the right side of the road. In most inner-city areas, you must obtain a parking ticket at one of the street-side ticket machines to display on your dashboard. The police quickly tow cars that violate these laws. If that happens, you can go to any police station to find out where your car is. The whole process costs more than 150€ ($187) — and a great deal of time. Parking garages are more expensive than street parking, but they save you the potential hassle of getting towed.

Staying in Style
Finding a hotel room in Berlin is easy, unless a big trade fair or soccer match is happening in town. Prices generally are lower than in other major European cities. (You can find a good hotel in Berlin for less than 150€/$187 a night.) I do, however, strongly recommend that you reserve your room before you arrive. If you arrive in Berlin without a hotel room, you can go to one of the BERLIN infostores (for locations and opening hours see “Finding Information After You Arrive,” earlier in this chapter). For 3€ ($3.75), the infostore staff will find you a room. You can also book hotels by calling % 030/25-00-25. For locations of the hotels in this chapter, see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining.”

The top hotels
For details on two of the city’s best hotels, Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) and Kempinski Hotel Bristol ($$$$), see Chapter 22.

Arco Hotel
$ Schöneberg
This small, gay-friendly hotel is housed in a four-story turn-of-the-century building on a quiet street near the Ku-Damm. Most of the 21 fairly large rooms have high windows and modern furniture. Private bathrooms, all with showers, are on the small side. One of the nicest features is the airy breakfast room, which looks out on a courtyard garden (you can eat outside in warm weather). The English-speaking staff is friendly and helpful. One potential drawback: no elevator.

124 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining
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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


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126 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
See map p. 124. Geisbergstrasse 30, 10777 Berlin. % 030/218-8065. Fax: 030/21475178. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Ansbacher Strasse and west on Geisbergstrasse). Rates: 65€–97€ ($81–$121) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

$ Charlottenburg
Located on the top floors of a large apartment building, Artemisia is an excellent hotel for women only. The rooms are large, light, and free of froufrou but still have a warm ambience heightened by splashes of color. Ten of the 12 rooms have toilets and small showers. You can save money by renting one of the two rooms that share a toilet and shower. A private roof terrace with wonderful views over Berlin becomes a gathering spot on warm afternoons and evenings. See map p. 124. Brandenburgischestrasse 18, 10707 Berlin. % 030/873-8905. Fax: 030/861-8653. U-Bahn: Blissestrasse (then a 3minute walk northwest on Brandenburgischestrasse). Rates: 89€–115€ ($111–$144) double with bathroom; 79€–89€ ($99–$111) double without bathroom. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Art-Hotel Charlottenburger Hof
$ –$$ Charlottenburg
Located across from the Charlottenburg S-Bahn station, this budget hotel is one of the best and brightest in Berlin. This inexpensive property is unusually well decorated for its price range and offers several amenities, such as in-room safes, hair dryers, and laundry facilities. Primary colors of blue, yellow, and red (plus white) brighten some of the 45 contemporary-style rooms, a few of which have balconies. Rooms and bathrooms, which have showers, are fairly small. All guest rooms are equipped with computers that provide free Internet access. The breakfast buffet costs an additional 8€ ($ 10). See map p. 124. Stuttgarter Platz 14, 10627 Berlin. % 030/329-070. Fax: 030/332-3723. S-Bahn: Charlottenburg (the hotel is north of the station). Rates: 65€–125€ ($81–$156) double. AE, MC, V.

Baxpax Downtown Hostel Hotel
$ –$$ Mitte
If you’re looking for a really inexpensive place to stay in Berlin, check out this clean, friendly hostel/hotel in Mitte. You can stay in an eight-bed dorm room, a more private double room with a shower and toilet, or a small studio with a bathroom. Nothing fancy or frilly here: The rooms have been simply but nicely designed and there’s a cafe and a roof terrace for relaxing and meeting fellow backpackers and explorers. Baxpax has two other hostels in eastern Berlin in addition to this one: Baxpax Kreuzberg Hostel Berlin, Skalitzer Strasse 104 (% 030/6951-8322; S-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor),



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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin




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128 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
and Mitte’s Backpacker Hostel Berlin, Chauseestrasse 102 (% 030/28390935; U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). See map p. 127. Ziegelstrasse 28, 10117 Berlin. % 030/2787-4880. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse (then a 5-minute walk south on Tucholsky Strasse and west on Ziegelstrasse). Rates: 15€–18€ ($19–$22) dorm bed without bathroom; 59€ ($74) double room with shower and toilet; 75–119€ ($94–$149) studio/apartment with bathroom. MC, V.

Bleibtreu Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
If you’re looking for chic, central, contemporary digs near the Ku-Damm, this 60-room boutique hotel is the place for you. The rooms aren’t particularly large but are artfully designed and furnished. The furniture coverings are hypoallergenic, and no chemicals of any kind are used for cleaning. The small, stylish bathrooms have sinks of carved stone. Other features include remote-control-operated lights, wireless phones, fax machines in every suite, and electric awnings over street-facing windows. The hotel has a Wellness Center where you can take a pore-cleansing sauna. Restaurant 31, near the small lobby, lays out a healthy breakfast buffet (an extra 15€/$ 19); the bar is lively at night. See map p. 124. Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Berlin. % 030/884-740. Fax: 030/8847-4444. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). Rates: 132€–232€ ($165–$240) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Grand Hyatt Berlin
$$$$ Tiergarten
The Grand Hyatt Berlin, right smack-dab in the center of all the action in the new Potsdamer Platz area, is one of the coolest places to stay, and one of the more expensive. This big hotel, built in 1998 with 342 rooms, is sleek and glamorous throughout. Rooms are large and have beautiful wood finishes and wonderful bathrooms set up with Japanese-style soaking tubs. Restaurants include Vox, for Eurasian cuisine and sushi; Tizian, for international classics; and Bistro Dietrich, for casual cafe-style food. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. 124. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, 10785 Berlin. % 030/2553-1234. Fax: 030/2553-1235. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west to Marlene-Dietrich-Platz). Rates: 240€–430€ ($300–$537) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Alsterhof Berlin
$ –$$$$ Wilmersdorf
Location — just a few minutes walk from Bahnhof Zoo and the Ku-Damm — is this hotel’s greatest asset. If you’re in Berlin on business and need a reasonably priced full-service hotel in a central location, this place fills the bill. The 195 rooms are comfortable and quiet, and have plenty of extra

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


amenities (trouser press, safe, minibar, hair dryer), although they aren’t particularly stylish. You find a pool and sauna on the sixth floor. The breakfast buffet costs 16€ ($20). See map p. 124. Augsburger Strasse 5, 10789 Berlin. % 030/212-420. Fax: 030/2183949. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east across Joachimstaler Platz and east on Augsburger Strasse). Rates: 85€–200 ($108–$250) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Brandenburger Hof
$$$$ Charlottenburg
The beautifully appointed, 86-room Hotel Brandenburger Hof offers superior service, an on-site spa, and one of the top restaurants in Berlin. Centrally located in western Berlin, this Relais & Châteaux hotel is close to the Ku-Damm and the Tiergarten. The guest rooms are unusually large for Berlin and furnished in an elegant Bauhaus style that is rarely encountered in other hotels. Bathrooms have wood and granite finishes. You can enjoy the sumptuous breakfast buffet, included in the price of the room, in a glass-walled conservatory built around a Japanese garden. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Die Quadriga (named for the four-horse chariot atop the Brandenburg Gate), earned a Michelin star (see “Dining Out,” later in this chapter). See map p. 124. Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Berlin. % 030/214-050. Fax: 030/21405100. U-Bahn: Kurfurstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east on Augsburger Strasse and south on Rankestrasse to Eislebener Strasse). Rates: 245€–295€ ($306–$369) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Domus
$$ –$$$ Wilmersdorf
Set in an unusually pretty section of Wilmersdorf, down the street from St. Ludwig’s Church and within walking distance of the Ku-Damm, this modern 73-room hotel has a calm, appealing simplicity. The spacious rooms are quiet (thanks to soundproof windows) and tastefully decorated with highquality contemporary furniture (lots of light-colored wood). Rooms face the inner courtyard or the street. The bathrooms are unusually large and have either a shower or a tub. Breakfast is served in a lovely dining room. Free high-speed Internet service is a nice bonus. See map on p. 124. Uhlandstrasse 49, 10719 Berlin. % 030/880-3440. Fax: 030/88034444. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west on Hohenzollerndamm and north on Uhlandstrasse). Rates: 115€–150€ ($144–$187) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Pension Niebuhr
$ Charlottenburg
This pleasant, gay-friendly pension in Charlottenburg is one of the best deals in Berlin. The 12 rooms, all on the second floor of a turn-of-the-century apartment building (no elevator), have a fresh, modest flair. The furnishings and

130 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
color schemes are bright and cheerful. Three street-facing rooms have balconies; the rooms facing the courtyard (Hinterhof) can be a bit dark, but they’re very quiet. One bonus: Breakfast (5€/$ 6.25) is brought up to your room. See map p. 124. Niebuhrstrasse 74, 10629 Berlin. % 030/324-9595. Fax: 030/881-4707. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Niebuhrstrasse). Rates: 53€ ($66) double without bathroom; 72€ ($90) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

Pension Nürnberger Eck
$ Charlottenburg
If you’re seeking an atmospheric old-fashioned pension, try this one on the second floor of a building near the Europa Center, a shopping and entertainment complex. High-ceilinged rooms with heavy doors open off a long, dark hallway. Although the eight rooms are stylistically something of a mishmash, with patterned wallpaper, Oriental rugs, and big pieces of furniture, the pension does convey an Old Berlin charm. The bathrooms are a decent size, and the breakfast room is pleasant. See map p. 124. Nürnberger Strasse 24a, 10789 Berlin. % 030/235-1780. Fax: 030/2351-7899. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Tauentzienstrasse and south on Nürnberger Strasse). Rates: 70€–92€ ($87–$115) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Savoy Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
The quietly charming Savoy, which opened in 1930, has played host to more than a few celebrities through the years. You can’t beat the location, just a skip from the Ku-Damm, or the unobtrusively efficient service. The 125 rooms provide spacious and comfortable accommodations, with large bathrooms, but don’t look for any modern design touches here; the hotel is completely up-to-date with wireless and cable networks, but the décor remains resolutely old-fashioned. There’s a good restaurant, Weinrot, serving international and regional dishes, and if your room rate includes the breakfast buffet, you’re in for a treat. Nonsmokers may find the lingering cigar fumes from the Times Bar, just off the lobby, bothersome. See map p. 124. Fasanenstrasse 9–10, 10623 Berlin. % 800-223-5652 in the U.S. or 030/311-030. Fax: 030/3110-3666. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse and north on Fasanenstrasse). Rates: 152€–295€ ($190–$369) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Runner-up hotels
Ambassador Berlin
$$ Schöneberg A comfortable, old-fashioned “retro” look characterizes this hotel located near the huge Kaufhaus des Westens department store. See map p. 124.

Fax: 030/2027-3362. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. or 030/ S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. or 030/20230. ߜ Westin Grand Hotel. Ku’Damm 101 $$ Wilmersdorf A minimalist aesthetic. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. ߜ Grand Hotel Esplanade. 10629 Berlin. www. atmospheric hotel is on the fourth floor of an Art Nouveau apartment house. 124. See map p. Fax: 030/777-5555. See map p. and Canada.. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. clean and comfortable. 124. www. www. and offers a buffet breakfast overlooking the rooftops of Berlin. Mohrenstrasse 30. or 030/33-77-77. Lützowufer 15. Potsdamer Platz Schaperstrasse 36. See map some vivid colors. trendy hotel may look a bit sterile to some. Fax: 030/2005-5555. % 030/2177-07476.hotelartnouveau. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 131 Bayreutherstrasse 42–43. . www. Fax: 030/ Fax: 030/ 265-1171.esplanade. 10711 Leibnizstrasse 59. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz. % 030/219-020. Friedrichstrasse 158–164. Grolmanstrasse 35. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. 10785 Berlin. See map 10785 Berlin. Kurfürstendamm 101. Hotel Art Nouveau $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg This small. and a bit of “I’m so cool” attitude characterize this interesting new hotel. 10719 Berlin. sorat-hotels. See map p. 124. Fax: 030/889-0260. www.S. 124. here are a few more $$$$ suggestions: ߜ Berlin Hilton. % 030/520-0550. See map Fax: 030/2023-4269. % 800-445-8667 in the U. 127. 127. 10623 Berlin. See map p.kudamm101. Hotel Wilmersdorf $ Wilmersdorf This no-fuss pension is large. The big splurge If you’re looking for top-of-the-line luxury. www. % 030/88900. % 800-241-3333 in the U. 124. www. Hecker’s Hotel $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg The streamlined rooms in this small. and Canada. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse.S.westin-grand. % 030/327-7440. ߜ Ritz-Carlton. 124. Fax: 030/217-7077. 10117 Berlin. www. % 800-937-8461 in the U. 10117 Berlin. % 030/254-780. See map p. 10787 Berlin. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte.heckershotel.S. Fax: 030/327-7440.ritz-carlton. but the place is conveniently located and impeccably maintained.

duck. and lighter dishes) at one of Berlin’s plentiful cafes. and pea soup (Erbsensuppe). modern décor. You can always get an inexpensive meal (soup. 10717 Berlin. carp and trout often are available. Scattered all around town are vendors selling Berlin’s classic fast-food snacks: Currywurst (sausage with a glob of “curry” sauce) or fried bratwurst. see Chapter 12. Grabbing a wurst or eating at the stand-up counters of the fast-food snack shops (look for signs that read IMBISS or SCHNELL-IMBISS) is a good way to save time and money. And speaking of cafes: Don’t forget that in Germany. Dining Out Berlin offers every kind of international cuisine. but the local culinary tradition is fairly basic and very filling. and plenty of other nice touches in this third-floor pension. but rounding out the total bill with an extra amount as a gratuity is standard practice. original artwork. www. Fancier restaurants often serve what’s called neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). pickled or roast pork (Schweinefleisch) or pork knuckles (Eisbein) with red cabbage and dumplings. and wild boar appears seasonally. Güntzelstrasse 62. For locations of the restaurants in this chapter. A plate with various cold meats is called a Schlachteplatte (schlock-tuh-plaht-tuh).30€.132 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Pension München $ Wilmersdorf You find % 030/857-9120. which uses the old standbys as a starting point but dolls them up with unusual ingredients and international touches. see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining” earlier in this chapter. fried potatoes. and bacon. Fax: 030/8579-1222.hotel-pension-muenchenin-berlin. I list some good cafe choices at the end of this chapter. Restaurant and cafe bills include the service charge and value-added tax (MWST). for example. Game like venison. round the total up to 7€ and add another euro or two if the service was good. 124. See map p. For a few recommended brewpubs. Typical Berlin dishes include grilled or pickled herring with onions. sandwiches. U-Bahn: Günzelstrasse. meatballs (Buletten) with boiled potatoes. . afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is a time-honored tradition. If the bill is 6. places to enjoy a casual meal with a freshly drawn beer.

See map p. (winter Sat–Sun 12:30 p. Come to this gay-friendly place for an English breakfast (bacon. Reservations recommended. 124.–2 a. 124. so be ready to wait (while savoring a bottle of good French wine). fish.–2 a. try a bowl of potato soup with sausage or one of the many salads. is wonderful. Main courses: 22€–39€ ($27–$49). and outdoor seating is available in good weather. bar.and French-inspired dishes. The menu changes daily according to what’s freshest in the market. Art is tucked beneath the S-Bahn track at Fasanenstrasse. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Hardenberg Strasse and south on Fasanenstrasse). Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets). Main courses: 9€–19€ ($11–$23). MC. Fasanenstrasse 81A.m. including fresh fish.m. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Regensburgerstrasse). Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25).m. Dinner choices include homemade pasta. flowers. beef. Chez Martial $$ Charlottenburg FRENCH Top-quality products and good cooking have helped establish Chez Martial as one of Berlin’s most popular French restaurants.m. Regensburgerstrasse 7. Open: Tues–Sun 6–11:30 p. % 030/341-1033. marinated boiled beef with chive cream. duck with cassis sauce. chicken. DC. and cafe rolled into one.. and beans). Sat–Sun 10 a.–2 a. The menu changes daily and offers several main courses. Open: Tues–Sat 5:30–11:30 p. Every dish is freshly prepared. Bamburger Reiter is small and rustic. For dessert. cooked in a broth of fish and shellfish that’s whipped into a foam. % 030/313-2625. See map p. V.m.) Bamberger Reiter $$$$ Schöneberg AUSTRIAN Housed in a century-old wine tavern at the corner of Regensburger Strasse and Bamburger Strasse. but the place now serves more Austrian. The staff is friendly. See map p. MC. and may include cream of mushroom soup. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Richard-Wagner-Strasse and west on Otto-SuhrAllee). 124. or smoked-fish pie. % 030/218-4282. with parquet floors. .m. Reservations recommended for dinner. Otto-Suhr-Allee 144. The fish soup. No credit cards. this was a temple of neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). and a vegetarian Maultaschen (stuffed pasta). V. roast quail. and couscous. and plenty of antiques. try the pumpernickel mousse.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 133 The top restaurants Art $ –$$ Charlottenburg GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A restaurant. poultry. Reservations required. eggs. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a.m. The restaurant has a outdoor arbor for summertime dining. lamb. AE.m. For many years. For lunch.

Main courses: 35€ ($44). La Riva $$ Mitte ITALIAN/SEAFOOD One of the prettiest buildings in the restored Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). The restaurant also has a well-stocked wine cellar. In Hotel Brandenburger Hof. and basil. AE. which celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2005. MC. 1 star means very good) in the beautiful Brandenburger Hof Hotel. Spreeufer 2. Eislebener Strasse 14. or fried chicken legs. a delicious red-beet soup with beef strips and sour cream. Reservations recommended. to midnight. AE. MC. AE. onions. and grilled or baked crayfish. is the Ephraim-Palais. Reservations recommended. smoked Pomeranian goose. % 030/214-050. Closed July 17–Aug 20. Main courses are something of an adventure: stewed pickled beef with green dumplings and stewed cabbage. Choices include salmon with white-wine sauce. Everything is of the finest quality. to midnight. the one-star Michelin restaurant (in Michelin’s guides. try homemade aspic. % 030/883-2676. and the good pizzas are kid-pleasing. MC. pizzas 4. while another section contains this Italian-influenced restaurant. Open: Mon–Fri 7–11 p. just south of Alexanderplatz. swordfish with fresh tomatoes. a richly ornamented 1765 mansion. or roast of elk with chanterelle mushrooms. For an appetizer. Part of the building is a museum. the pedestrian street along the river).m. You’ll want a table outside if the weather is fine. V. . U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 2-minute walk south on Eislebener Strasse). Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). See map p.m.50€–9. pork kidneys in sweet-andsour cream sauce. V. The wonderful wine list includes several wines available by the half-bottle or by the carafe.134 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Die Quadriga $$$$ Wilmersdorf FRENCH Die Quadriga. % 030/242-5183. See map p. Main courses: 13€–19€ ($16–$23). and a tasty potato soup with shrimp and bacon. Pasta is made fresh daily. And you’ll probably want to order fish. Reservations required. 124. Open: Daily 11 a. Marjellchen $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg EAST PRUSSIAN Old East Prussian recipes prepared by the owner’s grandmother inspired the dishes that are served at this popular restaurant. grilled trout. See map p. Open: Mon–Sat 5 p. such as broccoli soufflé. 124. DC. Other starters include Beetenbartsch. which sits right next to the Spree River. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 5minute walk southwest on Mühlendamm to Spreeufer. smoked ham in cream sauce. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). DC. but you need to reserve well in advance because the elegant restaurant seats only 28 diners. because that’s what this place does best. V.50€ ($6–$12). fixed-price menu 55€–110€ ($69–$137). You also find vegetarian dishes. offers a truly memorable dining experience. 127.m. Mommsenstrasse 9. Dishes are classically French and seasonally fresh.

You can get a good plate of spaghetti or a good . and new potatoes. V. lunch specials 14€ ($17). Main courses: 7€–13€ ($9–$16). MC. by its blood-colored awning and red-sandstone facade. the restaurant is large. Main courses change often. Restaurant Borchardt $$ –$$$ Mitte FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL You can recognize Borchardt.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Noodle $ –$$ Mitte JAPANESE/ASIAN 135 Located right beside the Spree River. The restaurant’s interior. The dining room has long communal tables. or grilled foie gras. Reservations recommended. with marble. In the past couple of years. fried noodles. Open: Daily 11:30 a. risotto with porcini mushrooms. Main courses: 16€–28€ ($20–$35). You may find asparagus with hollandaise sauce. the Paris Bar. saddle of veal with lemon butter. gilding. reasonably priced selection of sushi. % 030/2038-87110. between Savignyplatz and the Memorial Church. AE. AE.m. fresh fish. The best bet for lunch is one of the fixed-price specials. directly across from the Gendarmenmarkt. See map p. See map p. and other specialties. ham. % 030/23828-3464. across from the giant Berlin cathedral and beneath the Radisson SAS Hotel (of which it’s now a part). U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse). has been a Berlin institution. inexpensive lunch. with wooden tables and benches. Reservations recommended. MC.m. Open: Daily noon to 1 a. Menu offerings typically include baked tuna fish with Asian vegetables. Toto $ –$$ Charlottenburg ITALIAN Toto is a good place to sit outside on a warm Berlin afternoon and have a good. and a bit of French attitude. is nothing fancy. Open: Daily noon to 11 p. and suckling pig. See map p. the restaurant has expanded its classic French bistro menu to include more upscale Austrian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. plus noodle soups. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 3-minute walk east on Französische Strasse). and elegant.m. and satays (skewers with meat or fish). 127. No credit cards. Main courses: 10€–25€ ($13–$31). U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). Inside. Paris Bar $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg FRENCH/AUSTRIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Since the end of WWII. % 030/313-8052. V. Französische Strasse 47. spare. 127. this new Japanese-inspired noodle house offers a good. 124. sashimi. Reservations recommended. or you can dine outside in nice weather. to midnight. Spreepromenade beside Liebknecht Bridge. Diners mark what they want on the menu (an English menu is available) and hand it to the server. Wiener Schnitzel. Kantstrasse 152. glazed duck breast.

The menu choices are deftly prepared and can be surprisingly unfussy: venison with artichokes and mushrooms. AE. classic Wiener Schnitzel. which opened near the Gendarmenmarkt in early 1997. No credit cards. Open: Daily 6 p. and 7–11:30 p.m. All kinds of meat dishes and some good seafood (calamari and scampi grilled or cooked with radicchio and rosemary in white-wine sauce) round out the menu. 127. north on Luther Strasse. Open: Daily noon to 2 a. % 030/202-9730. % 030/211-6642. 124. rather narrow room with an arched ceiling. The pizzas are good.136 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany salad. but I still recommend this place. MC. roast duck breast with herbs and carrots. available every Tuesday and Friday (market days). however. In this long. and various fish choices. DC. has earned a Michelin star for its refined cooking. 124. Main courses: 28€–38€ ($35–$47). V. dating from 1525. The menu is huge and the cooking is reliable.m. everything is very precise.m. Fuggerstrasse 27. particularly the Pizza della Mamma with bacon and Parma ham. The lasagna is worth trying. to midnight. Zur Letzten Instanz $ –$$ Mitte BERLINER The former East Berlin now has several trendy new restaurants. too. The restaurant occupies two floors of a much-restored . The menu includes a nice selection of Italian wines and aperitifs. not remarkable. the menu has several items that kids generally like. very modern. and very beautiful.m. includes grilled salmon with butter and lemon and grilled crayfish cooked in olive oil. The bean soup is filling. with braids of garlic hanging from the beamed ceiling. which happens to be Berlin’s oldest restaurant. Vau $$$$ Mitte INTERNATIONAL This sleek and unabashedly upscale gastronomic showcase. Vau is a very dress-up kind of place for a superfancy lunch or dinner with impeccable service. Bleibtreustrasse 55. V. fixed-price dinner 80€–100€ ($100–$125). and west on Fuggerstrasse). Reservations recommended. The casual atmosphere makes Toto a good place to bring kids. See map p. See map p. Jägerstrasse 54–55. % 030/312-5449. Reservations required. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Motzstrasse. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). MC. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25). Fresh fish. AE. See map p. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. Note: The restaurant can be a bit smoky. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte (then a 5minute walk east across Gendarmenmarkt). DC. Trattoria da Muntagnola $ –$$ Wilmersdorf ITALIAN This popular Italian place is casually rustic. Some of the pastas are made on the premises.

U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 1-minute walk east along the street below the tracks). onions. DC. too. ߜ Café/Bistro Leysieffer. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41 (see map p. vanilla ice cream. upstairs. which come with a variety of sauces.75–$11). a cup of coffee and a piece of Kuchen (cake). Sun 11:30 a. See map p. is particularly rich in cafes. meatballs. or mushrooms). % 030/242-5528.75–$13). Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 1 a. Beneath the arches of Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station (SBahnbogen 30). U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 3-minute walk south on Waisenstrasse).m. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. to midnight. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse). has a pastry and candy shop at street level. 127. . V. and braised lamb knuckles with green beans and dumplings. bacon. or the roast bratwurst.m. Wash everything down with a cold. 124. yogurt. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. try the chocolate-covered pancakes filled with blueberries. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). For dessert.–6 p. between Savignyplatz and the Ku-Damm. convivial. and whipped cream. % 030/885-7480. ߜ Café Aedes. Sun noon to 11 p. The menu usually has dishes like tortellini with cheese sauce. The cafes likewise are bars.m. and the menu is as traditional and atmospheric as can be. or onion fillings. 127. or a light meal or snack. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). to midnight. AE. These are places to go for breakfast.m. foamy Bier von Fass (beer from the tap). and very hip. Main courses include Old Berlin staples like grilled herring. Starbucks is now a presence in Berlin.. DC. so you also can get a beer or a glass of wine. with choice locations on Unter den Linden near the Brandenburg Gate and on the Ku-Damm at Wittenbergplatz. Main courses: 7€–10€ ($8. Kurfürstendamm 218 (see map p. The best cafes Berlin is a city filled with cafes. MC. Vegetarian offerings include vegetable lasagna and roasted broccoli with cheese served on pasta. soups. as a sign of post-reunification nostalgia for a bit of Old Berlin. you find an old-fashioned cafe with a balcony overlooking the busy Ku-Damm. % 030/ 285-8278. and vegetarian salads. % 030/208-2655. The place closed in 1968 (GDR years) but reopened in 1993. For old time’s sake. Try the jacket potatoes with herring. to 7 p. Zur Nolle was a busy working-class beer hall beneath the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station. See map p. Zur Nolle $ Mitte GERMAN A hundred years ago. This place is a good one for having an elegant breakfast or light lunch. 127.m. apple. spices. Waisenstrasse 14–16. is trendy. V.m. Bleibtreustrasse (U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). AE. Meals range from 7€ to 9€ ($8. Meals range from 10€ to 16€ ($13–$20). MC.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 137 baroque building in the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter).m.m. The menu is unpretentious and the portions hearty. and additions (fried egg. I recommend the homemade Bulette (meatballs).

138 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ߜ Café Silberstein. is one of the best places to see the “new” eastern Berlin in all its up-to-the-nanosecond trendiness. % 030/882-5414. Fasanenstrasse 23 (see map p. A meal costs around 7€ ($8. The cafe is housed in a long.m.m. The menu includes pastas. to 5 a. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. occupies two modern-looking rooms in a 19th-century villa 1 block south of the Ku-Damm. On the menu..m. salads.m.m. % 030/ 281-2095. and an all-day breakfast. you find sushi. 124. U-Bahn: Hohenzollernplatz). ߜ Cafe Wintergarten in Literaturhaus Berlin. soups. narrow room with original 1920s wall paintings and modern furniture.m. to 1 a. to 4 a. tall. miso soup with noodles. 127. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). The cafe is open daily from 9:30 a. Oranienburger Strasse 27 (see map p. The cafe is open Monday to Friday from 10 a. salads. and vegetarian curries. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($9– $22).75). .

and at some museums children under 16 are admitted free of charge. and 31. They’re also closed January 1. kids younger than 6 generally get in for free. Remember: Nearly all Berlin museums are closed Mondays throughout the year. B Sightseeing in Berlin Where do you begin? Do you want to spend all your time in Berlin’s fabulous museums? Saunter and shop your way down famous avenues like Unter den Linden or the Ku-Damm? See historic buildings like the Reichstag? Check out the “new” Berlin at Potsdamer Platz? You have to make some decisions because the possibilities for sightseeing in Berlin are almost endless. this city has more new buildings than any other city in the world. 25.” “Charlottenburg Attractions. thanks to rebuilding in Potsdamer Platz and portions of eastern Berlin. The city is particularly rich in museums. The places described in this section are my roster of the most important Berlin attractions. . For locations.” and “Berlin-Mitte Attractions” maps in this chapter.Chapter 12 Exploring Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Berlin’s top attractions ᮣ Choosing a tour that’s right for you ᮣ Finding the hot shopping spots ᮣ Discovering Berlin’s performing arts and nightlife ᮣ Taking a side trip to Potsdam and the palace of Sanssouci erlin overflows with sightseeing options and diversions. Plus. famous avenues and riverside promenades. see the “TiergartenArea Attractions. Note: The ages for children’s tickets always are 6 to 14. except where otherwise indicated. and historic architecture. although you also find picturesque parks and lakes. and the Tuesday after Easter. December 24.

the new Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). Saving money with a museum pass SchauLUST Museen Berlin is a money-saving three-day museum pass that gets you into 70 top Berlin museums and collections for 15€ ($19) adults. ߜ Museum Island (Museumsinsel): Museum Island in eastern Berlin has four of the city’s oldest museums. the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (with contemporary art). is a group of buildings known as the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). and the Bröhan Museum (with Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture). which now contains the Ägyptisches Museum (with the famous bust of Nefertiti). where you find the Filmmuseum Berlin. smb. a baroque square. is home to the fascinating Ethnologisches Museum with rich collections of North American Indian art and artifacts and several other museums concerned with world cultures. you can also visit the new DDR Museum Berlin. In this same vicinity. the Alte Nationalgalerie (with 19th-century art). you find the BauhausArchiv. see Chapter 11). the Pergamon Museum (with the giant Pergamon altar and Middle Eastern antiquities). and the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). A day ticket to visit all four museums on Museum Island costs 10€ ($13). a grand boulevard. 7. The Kulturforum area is within walking distance of Potsdamer Platz. Charlottenburg Palace also has museums. the adjoining Kunstgewerbe (with applied and decorative arts).50). On the eastern edge of the Tiergarten. “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z. They include the Altes Museum. just a few S-Bahn stops from central Berlin. and the Reichstag (House of Parliament). which you can visit before or after a guided palace tour. Berlin’s great city park. the newest area of Berlin. and histosric buildings in the palace gardens. including the museums on Museum Island in . ߜ Tiergarten: In or near the Tiergarten. A day ticket to visit all the Dahlem museums costs 6€ ($7. and the Neue Nationalgalerie (with 20thcentury art). All the state museums operated by Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (www.spk-berlin. close to Potsdamer Platz. and the newly reopened Bode Museum (German and Italian sculpture and the Museum of Byzantine Art).” You can purchase the SchauLUST museum pass at any of the BERLIN infostores (for addresses.140 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Touring by neighborhood You can save a lot of time by clustering your museum and other sightseeing visits geographically. home to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). the Brandenburg Gate. Unter den Linden. The pass gains you admittance into nearly all the museums described in the next section. a restored historic neighborhood. ߜ Dahlem: This leafy suburb.50) seniors and children.50€ ($ The main museum areas in Berlin are as follows: ߜ Charlottenburg: Across from Charlottenburg Palace are two museums worth visiting: the Museum Berggruen (with Picassos). Gendarmenmarkt.

Mitte The Alte Nationalgalerie. If you’re interested in Egyptian antiquities. See map p. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. and Etruscan classical antiquities. and Cézanne. the free audio tour will help you navigate. Berlin Wall Mitte The wall that separated Berlin and Germany from 1961 to 1989 is no more. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. % 030/266-3660.–6 p. when it was moved to the second floor of the beautifully restored Altes Museum on Museum Island in eastern Berlin. Mitte Museum The greatest treasure of the Egyptian Museum is the famous and fabulous bust of Queen Nefertiti. Other collection highlights include the small. is found on the first floor.m. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). you’ll find enough here to make you linger for at least an hour. See map p. sits behind the Altes Museum on Museumsinsel. free Thurs 2–6 p. (Thurs until 10 p. 4€ ($5) children.m. (Thurs until 10 p. Give yourself at least an hour just for the highlights of this rich collection.) Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) Museum Island. A free audio tour in English is available. Roman. free Thurs 6–10 p.). pronounced mao-er) are left. Berlin-Mitte’s famous collection of Egyptian antiquities was housed in western Berlin until 2005. expressive head of Queen Tiy and the world-famous head of a priest in green stone. Open: Daily 10 a.smb. and at Charlottenburg Palace. dating from around 1340 B. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Renoir. pottery. A superlative collection of Greek. 147. Bodestrasse 1–3.C. www. By 1990. Monet. % 030/2090-5801. Museumsinsel. and objects of gold and silver.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 141 Berlin Mitte. are open free to the public on Thursdays. including works by van Gogh. in the Kulturforum. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Altes Museum (Egyptian Museum and Collection of Classical Antiquities) Museum Island. Am Lustgarten. One of the highlights here is the unique portraits of Caesar and Cleopatra.m. Manet.–6 p.m.m. but the fragments that remain are grimly essential pieces of Berlin’s tumultuous history. four hours before closing.m. including sculpture.m. You’ll need at least two hours to cover the basics.m. most of the concrete barrier that divided this city into two political entities had been razed. . Children 16 and under are always admitted free of charge. 4€ ($5) children. 147. Only two portions of the wall (Mauer in German. which looks like a Corinthian temple and contains a collection of 19th-century painting and sculpture.

French.m. and Italian sculpture (marble. built into one of the guardhouses.m. . Bode-Museum (Sculpture Collection. % 030/266-3666.–6 p. bronze) from the Gothic to the neoclassical periods. The mirrorlike stainless steel surfaces of the memorial have slits through which visitors can peer.–6 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. a fourhorse copper chariot drawn by the goddess Victoria. Here you’ll find a rich collection of German. 4€ ($5) children. give yourself at least a full hour just to graze the highlights. See map p. 147. A neoclassical triumphal arch completed in 1791.). The memorial consists of two walls that include fragments of the original wall (much of which was bulldozed away or carried off by souvenir hunters). The museum also contains galleries with late-antique and Byzantine works and a major coin collection. the newly modernized BodeMuseum anchoring the north end of Museum Island reopened its doors in October 2006. An international group of artists painted murals on this section in 1990. A plaque reads: “In memory of the division of the city from 13 August 1961 to 9 November 1989.m. U-/S-Bahn: Warschauer Strasse. and a documentation center with photographs and a history of the wall.m. in every news clip.m. known as the Gedenkstätte und Dokumentationszentrum Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial and Documentation Center) lies between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. Monbijoubrücke. saw the gate used as a symbolic gathering place. such as those in 1989. The other remaining section of the wall. Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) Mitte If you watched the televised fall of the Communist German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1989. one of Berlin’s most potent symbols. Mitte Closed in 1999 for a complete refurbishment. (Thurs until 10 p.). The revolutionary events of 1848 and 1918.smb. Museum of Byzantine Art) Museumsinsel. When the wall came down. In the Room of Silence (open daily 11 a. www. a chapel of reconciliation. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse.” This place is the only one in Berlin where you still can see a complete border area. Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer: between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse.142 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The East Side Gallery is a half-mile-long section on Mühlenstrasse on the banks of the Spree River in the former East Berlin. See map p. East Side Gallery: Mühlenstrasse along the Spree River. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt (then a 5-minute walk west along the S-Bahn tracks to the Monbijou bridge which leads to the museum). The free audio guide will help you navigate your way through the galleries. hundreds of thousands of East Germans walked freely through the gate into West Berlin for the first time since 1961. free Thurs 2–6 p. Dutch. you saw this historic monument. wood. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. visitors still gather to meditate and reflect on Germany’s past. the gate is crowned by the famous Quadriga.

tr.Gegenwart 17 CHARDAGNERNERATZ Z Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche 5 Ot toKäthe-Kollwitz-Museum 4 Suh rKunstgewerbemuseum 9 All ee Kurfürstendamm (Ku-Damm) 3 Neue Nationalgalerie 11 DEUTSCHE str. rS Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin r m dam 5 Tau i en nt zi rste U KURFÜRSTENü f en r u DAMM str 3 K S Garten Tor 15 eg tr. hö S S Sc ANHALTER Kleis tstr. -derVon dt -Str. str. Budap e ster . Ca Str. te steg s Bellevue brücke t o -F U ona Englischer n Brandenburger h o Pariser J HANSA. na l UNIVERSITÄT r. be St Tiergartenstr. PLATZ ew Platz des re Platz p 18. U KURFÜRSTENSTR STR. fürs lstr Niebuhr- S Kur . Juni os se T I E R G A R T E N e rS ter na Neuer lle str. a llee Hofjägera w nd öferKlingelh str.str. 11 Hey R 7 owufer eic h p ietschufer Lütz berger Ufe Schöne r taler Str. Kantstr S U POTSDAMER PLATZ MarleneDietrichPlatz a em nn S ZOOLOGISCHER U GARTEN 13 str . U S U Bauhaus–Archiv Museum hauser Str. platz üle Str. Marchbrücke L ch str . SAVIGNY- Kantstr. 17 s Strasse de Grosser Be llev TIERGARTEN S Stern s 17. nst r. r 9 10 Leibnizstr. Joachims- ten str. eh r ka e rd Ha Str.Grünewald steg Röntgen-10 Gemäldegalerie brücke Hamburger Bahnhof DoveMuseum für brücke ARD. ommsen. Str h il Sc Uhlandstr. er Pot sda m Sony PotsCenter damer Leipziger 12 14Platz Platz Ebertstr. Strasse des Ba st r. März M rz S ni Ju . Kur r. Kleiner Tiergarten Alt-Mo abit 0 1/4 mi N Luisenstr. Juni ue 8 Strasse de Gr alle 17. tr. Schlüterstr.TURMSTR. str llerSchi The Story of Berlin 2 PLATZ Tiergarten 8 Goethe. tzenburger 4 U AUGSBURGER STR. fürs . Topographie des Terrors Pestal ozzistr. U U-Bahn i Information amm i Church rstend Kurfü WITTENBERGr PLATZ de i An r a n KaDeWe U U Leibniz. uer Le S p r e e ss in g- Paulstr .str. n Str es i ZOOLOGISCHER Harden. rge a me 1 2 tens tr. S nst 17 lide HAUPTBAHNHOF nva I LEHRTER BAHNHOF LessingWashingtonAltTIERGARTEN brücke Moabit platz Kronprinzenbrücke Moabiter Le Moltkeve Brücke tzo brücke ws Gericketr.S S-Bahn str. HansaTo Berlin-Mitte r. e See Len né tungsEntlas TECHNISCHE ane Fas Krumme rstr.25 km brücke str. Nü rn PLATZ Post office str. Po ts U UHLANDSTR. NOLLENDORF- GLEIS- U tr. g Stein. S tro m st r . ENAUERADENAUERATZ PLATZ Lie Str.GARTEN bergplatz 6 für Gestaltung 7 Botanischer linburger Str. 0 Gotzkowsky0. Garten 1 Brandenburger Tor 15 Filmmuseum Berlin 12 Siemens. 13 Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium 6. steg BELLEVUE St Kongresshalle/ brücke Lüne b u r g e r S e e Haus der Kulturen Reichstag p r der Welt HANSAS Platz der 16 MarschallRepublik brücke VIERTEL Schloss WullenweberLutherD u l l e r s A l l ee Al Scheidemannstr. OPER Bismarck U Potsdamer Platz 14 U ERNSTReichstag 16 REUTER. Lützowtzowplatz Lütz ows MENDELSSOHNBARTHOLDY-PARK U r ge Einemst da be 143 BAHNHOF Tiergarten-Area Attractions r be ne tr. Do str ve.

147. % 030/2090-5555.–6 p.” later in this chapter). which had its guardhouse and stables here from 1738 to 1782. including Raphael’s Virgin and Child with the Infant St. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse and Margaretenstrasse). Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) Kulturforum.m. for concert information. See map p. The centerpiece of the square is Friedrich Schinkel’s beautiful neoclassical Schauspielhaus. The square was named for the Gens d’Armes regiment. 4€ ($5) children. open Tues–Sun noon to 5 p.m. 143.144 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. it’s hard to imagine that by the end of World War II (WWII).). See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you see the gate to the west). 143. . see “Raising the curtain on performing arts and music. half-hour organ concerts Tues and Fri at 12:30 p. when East Berlin finally began its reconstruction. % 030/22730431. or Concert House.. open Tues–Sun 10 a. Matthäiskirchplatz.–6 p. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Taubenstrasse). John and Bronzino’s Portrait of Ugolino Martelli. Gendarmenmarkt Mitte Twin churches inspired by Rome’s Piazza del Popolo flank this monumentally graceful baroque square — one of the most beautiful architectural ensembles in Berlin. built for the influx of French Huguenots (Protestants) who settled in Berlin after being forced to flee Catholic France in 1685. The gallery contains one of the world’s largest collections of Rembrandts.). On the north side of the square is the Französicher Dom (French Cathedral. completed in 1821. Looking at the square today. or theater (now also called the Konzerthaus.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m.m. Admission: Free. Pariser Platz. the Gendarmenmarkt had been reduced to a pile of smoldering rubble and remained in ruins until 1977. Several Italian masterpieces are on display. Facing this church like a mirror image on the south side is the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral.).m. Surrounding the square is a bevy of chic new restaurants. with an emphasis on medieval German and Dutch art and 16th-century Italian and 17th-century Dutch painting. This is a huge collection and to see it in any depth you should give yourself at least two hours. % 030/802-8146. free Thurs 6–10 p. Tiergarten The Gemäldegalerie houses Berlin’s greatest collection of European painting. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. (Thurs until 10 p.m.m.

U S-Bahn U-Bahn N CHARLOTTENBURG LiseM e itner. str dt LIETZENSEEPARK e n s e ze et en Sua rezs tr. Schlossbrücke Charlottenburg M SCHLOSSGARTEN ier Caprivier U brücke f er Wintersteinstr. Mierendorffplatz Sop Keple rstr. Wulfsheinstr. itz Goethepark leb Pestalozzi- str. . o lf. h. Karpfenteich ener Str. W W un Li MESSE NORD/ S ICC .Friedric en leb itz atz W pl Wilme Fritschestr. BISMARCKSTRASSE dt - U str . s tr Horstweg un Horstweg SophieCharlottePlatz U SOPHIECHARLOTTEPLATZ Kaiserdamm W Bismarckstr.B e re Sp rüc ke Olbers- . He Knobelsdorff str. helst r. Kaise r- str. Zille. 0 0 0.Str. 100 Christ- str. platz Ot toBrauhofstr. Spielhagens tr. WILMERSDORFER STR. 100 isse ll . RICHARDGierkeWAGNERstr.Str.W Bra Te g e l e r Bröhan Museum 3 Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit 2 Schloss Charlottenburg 1 CHARLOTTENBURG Schinkel Pavilion 1 mm Spandauer Da 2 Klausener3 platz WESTEND Ne r. Wilmers- Sophie-C harlotte n-Str. Str. St s rp S u f ertstr. Post office S U Neue Kantstr. Kaiser. str. r Str. Ste san ifendst r. U KAISERDAMM Schiller- str. Beh SchustehrusPark Haubachstr. e Sp re Schloss- Weg Sömmeringstr. Loh- tr. h i e -C harl o Kam ntte Hersc Belvedere mine . Mausoleum Taur ogge ner S en tr. els str. Wagner.Eosanders tr. Su hrStallstr. Gardes-du-Co Luisen.25 km 1/4 mi Kantstr. Schustehrus- Seeling- str. Str R ud str.St Fritschestr .str. r Str he- Osna Mind brück er Str MIERENDORFFPLATZ U . F r i e dr i c h - Richard- Gierke- Danckelman n- dorfer r. platz PLATZ U aim. str. Rieh l s tr . All ee me ye rNithack- str . Nehringstr. bb Thrasoltzeile Str. do rff str .Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 145 Charlottenburg Attractions s t r. str. rsdorfe W i n dscheids t r. Neue Christstr.

and Roy Lichtenstein together with changing exhibitions.–6 p. works of Jewish artists. 2. Robert Rauschenberg.75) students and children. portraits of prominent Jewish figures. free Thurs 2–6 p.m. The modern art on display dates from the second half of the 20th century and includes everything from Andy Warhol’s now legendary Mao to an audiovisual Joseph Beuys archive. .m. Sat 11 a. Lindenstrasse 9–14.m. I recommend that you give yourself at least two hours. photos.146 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) Tiergarten This showcase of contemporary art opened in 1996 in the 19th-century Hamburger Bahnhof.25) adults. 147.m. 4€ ($5) children. including the high roof designed for steam engines. www.m.m. % 030/397-83439. This museum has plenty to see. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk northeast on Invalidenstrasse). Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) Kreuzberg One of the most talked-about museums in Europe is located in Kreuzberg. and memorabilia. and the ruined shell was preserved as a symbol of the ravages of war. the church later was blasted by a bomb in WWII. Designed by American architect Daniel You probably won’t want to spend more than a few minutes inside. % 030/2599-3300. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor (then a 5-minute walk east on Gitschiner Strasse and north on Lindenstrasse). See map p.–8 p. You follow a chronological pathway occasionally interrupted by deliberately disorienting memorial spaces.–8 p. historical objects. the oldest train station in Berlin. Closed on Jewish holy days. Admission: 5€ ($6.m. Free organ concerts take place there every Saturday year-round at 6 p.m.). The small modern church beside the Gedächtniskirche is an octagonal hall designed by Egon Eierman in 1961. Built to commemorate the 1871 establishment of the German Empire. Open: Tues–Fri and Sun 10 a. 2 children). documents. Invalidenstrasse 50–51. You also find a major collection of works by Cy Twombly. the Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church) is a ponderous neo-Romanesque structure from the late 19th century.m. You can see everything in about an hour. Open: Daily 10 a. 143. (Mon until 10 p. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. 10€ ($13) family ticket (2 adults. the building is shaped like a stretched-out Star of David and houses Europe’s largest Jewish museum. Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Emperor William Memorial Church) Charlottenburg One of Berlin’s most famous landmarks.juedisches-museumberlin. just south of Berlin-Mitte.. The building still retains traces of its former use. Items on display include ceremonial objects. See map p.50€ ($3.

U . MUSEUMSAlle e th KLOSTERSTR. PLATZ o e m a d m s t U Po ma S . S p Ka Deutsches Historisches 11 str Haus der 10 8 Platz der Museum 9 Reichstag Kulturen LustRepublik garten Dorotheenstr. Berlin Wall . sst Mittel9 Alexanderplatz 16 au Scheidemannstr. 3 4 rstr. an st r . Friedrichstr. lev SPITTELMARKT Leipziger ues Jak o b HEINRICH. r tr. gra b en str. rst ue Ma xelSp ring Charlottens A LEHRTER BAHNHOF Mü Alte Nationalgalerie 12 0 1/4 mi nzs 16 15 S tr. . St M üh e eit Br l en Ebertstr. erstr. it (Gedenkstätte Kronprinzenpark platz “Berliner Mauer”) 15 r. ns tr. n St Leipziger Post Office e Leipziger POTSDAMER Krausenstr. all str U ren. Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Friedrichstr. er-S Wilh ak ob str . grafen- tr. brücke st n e . MOHRENSTR. str. Moh MÄRKISCHES str.U str. . Glinka- da mm Charlotten- Gr un er Universitätsst Friedrichstr. str.25 km s Dirck HACKESCHER xa Lie s en (East Side Gallery) 5 tnd MARKT Washington. AlexanderR M Berlin Wall oab platz S l. r. ri r ALEXANDERMa BerlinerMoltkeDom 8 St S PLATZ 14 brücke (Sculpture Bode Museum Pergamon ht U ec Fernsehturm m Collection. r t s W l l a U U Bel Voss. MarleneZimmerstr. Juni er i r s ch Museumsinsel W erd e arkt Behrenstr. str. ied e TaubenUnter den Linden 1 erw urstr Rungestr. Museum of Museum n . . r. str. U STADTMITTE KronenMUSEUM L e n né . -KolmarGertrud Str. N e u e str. W Schwules Museum 12 U N alle K str. m se tr. UNTER DEN a 6 R INSEL Gendarmenmarkt 2 LINDEN Brandenburger U NIKOLAIden Lin Jüdisches Museum 4 SchlossS 1 n Tor de BebelVIERTEL Unter St platz Pariser Platz des platz Mauermuseum Haus am r s a de la u e Platz Strasse 18. nd U U-Bahn J Schützenstr an Potsdamer te ten Al Platz i Information Zimmerstr.str. Str. Fernsehturm am der Welt r. DietrichNiederkirchne Platz Kochstr. Jerusalemer Ge r tr au d elms Wilh en str .str hard er p in K Monbijoue . - kn e ch t-S tr. tr. Mau t r. M S (Museum Island) 10 Str. Mark- Str. r b Ale t 0 0. Ora Altes Museum 11 nie N n b u r g e r S tr . Rathaus str. r. Str elms e str. Luisen- str. Sp an da r ue r. TIERGARTEN U 2 Be Memorial HAUSVOGTEIllev GendarmenPergamon Museum 13 (under FRANZÖSISCHE s l PLATZ ue l a construction) markt STR. März r S t r. m k str r da e S 13 12 ieb Byzantine Art) 14 s e 17 L . p r e Französische 5 e Holocaust Nikolaiviertel 6 Jägerstr. 147 Berlin-Mitte Attractions er KOCHSTR. tr.HAUPTBAHNHOF r. u u r ba e st FRIEDRICH. Checkpoint Charlie 3 17. i atha 7 S c h if f r e Museum 7 de GeorgenPaul-Löbe-Allee STRASSE rleDDR Bo R . t s HEINE-STR. Platz K S S-Bahn r Str. tstr rech Alb Tuch olsk yst St fer Kup Oberwall- r.

an enormous expanse of glass windows and simple symmetry. designed in 1968 by famed German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. built in 1542 for the Prince-Electors (Kurfürsten) to reach their hunting lodge in the Grünewald more easily.. 4. Admission: Free. See map p. It’s currently going through a rebuilding phase to spruce itself up and lure people back from eastern Berlin. See map on p. % 030/218-5023.–10 p. new church daily 9 a. and people-watch. www. including works by de Chirico. and attempted escape devices (chairlifts. 143. the most frequently used traffic crossing into East Berlin. Admission: 9.148 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map on p. Dalí. contains a small but impressive collection of international 20th-century painting and sculpture.mauermuseum. the Ku-Damm was the most brilliant. Kurfürstendamm Tiergarten The famous boulevard known as the Ku-Damm is western Berlin’s answer to Paris’s Champs-Elysées.m. From the start of the 20th century until WWII. hot-air balloons. lively. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (you are on the Ku-Damm when you exit the station).75€ ($6) children and students. Open: Daily 9 a. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse (then a 5-minute walk north on Friedrichstrasse). Miró. Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery) Kulturforum. Mark Rothko.m.–7 p. Located near what once was Checkpoint Charlie.–4 p. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk south on Budapester Strasse). false passports. Tiergarten The only “old” structure in the aggressively modern Kulturforum complex is the New National Gallery. and Otto Dix. Open: Memorial church Mon–Sat 10 a. The photographs. stroll. Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Wall Museum at Checkpoint Charlie) Kreuzberg If you’re interested in the history of the Berlin Wall.m. For years the Ku-Damm hogged all the city’s glamour because dreary East Berlin had nothing to rival it. Today’s busy commercial artery began as nothing more than a humble log road. Friedrichstrasse 43–45.m. newspaper clippings. and elegant street in this part of Berlin. sit. 147. % 030/253-7250. The museum. mid-20th-century German artists Max Beckmann. and Frank Stella.m. Max Ernst. The street still is a wonderful place to shop. 143. Kurfürstendamm at Breitscheidplatz. this small museum in Kreuzberg is well worth an hour of your time. and two bitter and brilliant oils by . even a minisub) used by East Germans may give you a new take on the meaning of freedom.m. filled with legendary cafes and renowned for its nightlife. the museum documents the wall’s history from its construction in 1961 to its fall in 1989 to 1990. Of special interest are the paintings by early.50€ ($12) adults.

U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to the Museum Island). you find the Stella Musical Theater. free Thurs 6–10 p.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 149 George Grosz that capture the decadent despair of the Weimar years in the 1920s. The gallery also is used for special traveling exhibitions. % 030/2090-5577. See map on p. And what you must see is the Pergamon Altar.m. government offices. Persia.m. 4€ ($5) students and children. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (you are on Potsdamer Platz as you exit the station).. corporations like Sony and Mercedes-Benz rushed in and bought the entire area. After reunification.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. restaurants. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. the renowned Pergamon Museum is the one must-see (along with the bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti in the Altes Museum). 143. which has two movie theaters and a viewing area from which you can look out over the Philharmonie. (Thurs until 10 p. Mitte Of all the museums on Museum Island. 4€ ($5) children and students. Potsdamer Strasse 50. stroll along the Potsdamer Platz Arcades. you’ll understand why.). and the Tiergarten.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. Potsdamer Platz was the busiest spot in Berlin. (Thurs until 10 p. Sat–Sun 11 a. and the Cine-Max cinema center. the Berlin Casino.–6 p. Am Kupfergraben. the Grand Hyatt Hotel. considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and still holding its own today. One of the most visited attractions is the Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz (% 030/2094-5400). Today. In 1961. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk south on Potsdamer Strasse). When you see its grim facade. supermodern showcase of corporate glitz. a Roman building facade from the time of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (around A.m. Pergamon Museum Museum Island. Potsdamer Platz Tiergarten Before WWII. the Madison City Suites.). Part of the enormous Temple of Zeus and Athena. and entertainment. one of the most popular in the city. where 140 stores. See map p. 165). and Assyria.–6 p. Potsdamer Platz is a brand-new.D.m. Around newly created Marlene-Dietrich-Platz. the square was cut off from the western sector by the wall and became an ugly strip of mined no-man’s-land. See map p. the altar was discovered in 1876 in western Turkey. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.). dating from 180 to 160 B. 143. the Kulturforum.m.C.m. . The entire museum. upscale housing. will undergo an internal and external face-lift (costing 351€ million /$ 420 million) starting in 2011.m. To experience the area. free admission Thurs 6–10 p. % 030/266-2951. The Near East Museum in the museum’s south wing contains one of the largest collections anywhere of antiquities from ancient Babylonia. and cafes invite you to shop and relax. 147.–6 p.m. Another showpiece is the ornate two-storied Market Gate of Miletus.

the street that follows the river). After reunification. UNESCO is the United Nations Educational.–10 p. a complicated process of restoring the buildings and reuniting various collections from the East and West began. After a security check. The dome also has an outdoor observation area and a rooftop restaurant with so-so food (reservations % 030/226-2990). Open: Dome daily 8 a. Its present form dates from 1790. who. some dating back to the early and mid 19th century. I recommend that you arrive as early as possible. gets a much-needed makeover. % 030/2273-2131. will close in 2011 for several years while it.m. Platz der Republik. one of the most popular museums in Berlin. The domed neo-baroque Bode Museum at the far northern end of the island and the Altes Museum with its Egyptian and classical antiquities collections reopened in 2005 and 2006 respectively after extensive interior modernization. Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) Charlottenburg The oldest section of this lovely. The Neues Museum is closed until 2008. 143.150 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Museumsinsel (Museum Island): Art by decree Five museums on an island in the River Spree form the oldest museum complex in Berlin and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the first to reopen its doors after undergoing post-reunification refurbishment. were constructed after Frederick William III issued a decree stipulating that the privately owned artwork of the royal family needed to be made accessible to the public. but the other four museums are definitely worth exploring. Scientific.m. otherwise. you take an elevator up to the dome. the building was partially destroyed by a fire in 1933 that probably was set by the Nazis. used the incident as an opportunity to seize power. Reichstag (House of Parliament) Tiergarten The Reichstag is the seat of the reunified German Parliament. you may have to stand in line for up to three hours before getting in. The museums were the main attractions in old East Berlin. and Cultural Organization. a new glass dome designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster crowns the building. Built in a pompous high-Renaissance style between 1884 and 1894. the wife of Friedrich I. Admission: Free. so I don’t include it in this guide. blaming the fire on the Communists. . where a sweeping vista of Berlin opens out before you. too. Allied bombs destroyed part of the Reichstag in WWII. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west along the Reichstagufer. Much of the palace was destroyed in WWII and painstakingly reconstructed. yellow baroque palace was built in 1695 as a breezy summer abode for Sophie Charlotte. The massive Pergamon Museum. See map p. The buildings. Today.

Open: Palace and museums Tues–Sun 9 a. one of the great landscape architects of the early 19th century. and to take that tour you have to don huge felt slippers (so you’re effectively polishing the wood floors as you slide around after the guide). in the Langhansbau wing. and more than 23km (14 miles) of meandering paths. you find the Hansaviertel (Hansa Quarter). (last tour at 5 p. is the most famous of the Tiergarten’s . the eye-catching porcelain room. Luisenplatz. leafy trees. the leading architect of the day. Admission: Combination ticket for historical rooms.75) children for this museum. It was originally was laid out by Peter Josef Lenné.50) adults.m.m. 145. The Siegessäule (Victory Column). (Tiergarten also is the name of Berlin’s smallest neighborhood. displays the famous Schliemann collection of antiquities from Troy.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 151 You can see the palace only on a tour. Tiergarten Tiergarten The popular Tiergarten (literally. which is described in the “Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium)” listing later in this chapter. At the far end of the Schlossgarten. is the Belvedere.) With its lawns.spsg. mile) and is the most popular green space in central Berlin.und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History).–5 p. a residential area where architects were invited to build projects in the 1950s. the residence of Germany’s president. and pretty Schloss (Palace) Bellevue (S-Bahn: Bellevue). canals. which is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 give yourself a couple of hours. “animal garden”) covers almost 2. The tour is given only in German (you can buy an English-language guidebook at the ticket counter) and includes the historical rooms.m. much of it from the 1700s. and Biedermeier periods. and the beautifully landscaped Schlossgarten (palace gardens). a golden goddess of victory perched high atop a red-granite pedestal. an Italianate summer house designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. 3€ ($ 3. Beginning in 1955. to 5 p. This former royal teahouse contains exquisite Berlin porcelain. you can. % 0331/969-4202. on your own. in 1825. In the northwestern corner.5 sq. ponds. U-Bahn: SophieCharlotte-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Schlossstrasse). See map p. trees were replanted and walkways. With a combined ticket. as a private park for the electors of Prussia. The park was devastated during and just after WWII.). km (1 sq. and Schlossgarten 8€ ($10) adults.m. Galerie der Romantik. 5€ ($6. The Museum für Vor. close to the Spree River. with its fine collection of paintings from the neoclassical. you need at least four to five hours. and the royal chapel. In the Schlossgarten. To see the palace and museums. the Tiergarten park is a great place to stroll and relax. You must pay a separate admission of 6€ ($ 7.m. The Berlin Zoo.25) children. Romantic. you find the charming Schinkel Pavilion. and flower beds restored to their original patterns. when desperate citizens chopped down the trees for fuel. If you just want to stroll. the living quarters of Friedrich I and Sophie Charlotte. additionally visit the Galerie der Romantik. occupies the park’s southwestern corner. www.

143.25) for adults. With kids in tow you can easily spend half a day in the zoo and aquarium.–8 p. and other creatures. a wide boulevard that bisects the Tiergarten and is the western extension of Unter den Linden.aquarium-berlin. 147. Admission: Zoo 11€ ($14) adults. Following reunification. houses the Deutsches Museum (see the later section on “Finding more cool things to see and do”).m.” came from the linden trees that were originally planted along the street. The name. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (the entrance is a 3-minute walk east on Budapester Strasse).m. on the east by Berlin-Mitte. is open daily from 9:30 a. Bus: 100. to 6:30 p. and cafes. The zoo also has a modern aviary. Bounded on the west by Bahnhof Zoo and the Europa Center. Unter den Linden Mitte Laid out in 1647 and extending a bit more than a kilometer (3⁄4 mile) east from the Brandenburg Gate. luxury car showrooms. 5.152 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany many monuments.zoo-berlin. The giant Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral. is also located here. www. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you are on the avenue as you exit the station). Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium) Tiergarten Founded in Hardenbergplatz 8. The Zeughaus (Armory). the oldest of Berlin’s three opera houses. the Brandenburg Gate. open daily 9 a. amphibians. The hippoquarium is a new attraction.000 fish. with more than 550 species of birds. reptiles. insects. the historically significant buildings along Unter den Linden were spruced up and the avenue filled up with souvenir shops. See map p. % 030/25-40-10.50€ . www. Berlin’s largest baroque building and the first (1706) major building to be constructed on Unter den Linden. The column’s 48m-high (157-ft. Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s most famous and historically significant streets. The most popular residents are the giant pandas. free for children younger than 12. This boulevard is the oldest and royalest in central Berlin.000 animals live here. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or Hansaplatz. The column stands in the center of the Strasse des 17 Juni.) squats at the end of Unter den Linden. The aquarium is home to more than 9. Admission is 1€ ($ 1.) observation platform. reached by climbing up a 290-step spiral staircase. Friedrich Schinkel’s 1818 Neue Wache (New Watch) served as headquarters for the King’s Guard and now contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Tomb of the Unknown Resistance Fighter. More than 13. many of them in open habitats. and Potsdamer Platz. 143. S-Bahn: Tiergarten or Bellevue. See map p. See map p. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden.m. with several monumental buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. which means “under the lindens. Germany’s oldest and Europe’s largest zoo occupies almost the entire southwest corner of the Tiergarten.

is dedicated to the Bauhaus school.m. 5. You also find an extensive arboretum and several special collections. sculpture. English-language texts and audio guides describing the exhibits are available.m.25) for adults. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 at Weimar. S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten..botanischer-gartenberlin. of more interest to dedicated gardeners than the general public.m.m. silverware. and finally settled in Berlin.50€ ($) children. The garden is open daily from 9 a. Finding more cool things to see and do Berlin is full of museums.50€ ($7) children. 2.–6 p. Admission is 5€ ($6. and crafts. Berlin newest new museum.m.. ߜ Berlin’s Botanischer Garten (Botanical Garden).–5 p. Admission is 5€ ($6. .m. to dusk. all from 1889 to 1939. www. de. a completely decorated set of rooms from a luxurious private residence of the 1920s and 1930s.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 153 ($7) children. Schlossstrasse 1A (% 030/3269-0600.m.m. ߜ The DDR Museum. before the Nazis forced the school to disband in 1933. hands-on experience of everyday life in the Communist DDR (Deutsche Democratische Republik. free for children 12 and younger.50€ ($3) for Admission is 7€ ($9) adults. brohan-museum. free on first Wednesday of every month. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz).m. The Palm House is one of the largest in the world. moved to Dessau.m. gardens and many other places to visit — you won’t be lacking of things to do. A must-see is the Suite Emile-Jacques Ruhlman. Open: Zoo Mar 15–Oct 14 daily 9 a. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). including a garden for blind visitors and another with water plants.m. The museum. 8. www. Oct 15–Mar 14 daily 9 a. aquarium 11€ ($14) adults. ߜ The Bauhaus–Archiv Museum für Gestaltung (BauhausDesign Museum). You need at least an hour to peruse the exhibits. aquarium year-round daily 9 a. is open Wednesday through Monday from 10 a. Here are additional places that you may find of interest. is also on the premises. near the Tiergarten. ߜ The Bröhan Museum.25). located near the Dahlem Museums on the outskirts of Berlin. which sought to combine art.–6:30 p. completed in 1979. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1 (% 030/847-123-731. Königin-LuiseStrasse 6–8 (% 030/8385-0100. glass. The museum is small enough that you can see everything in an hour. to 6 p.ddr-museum. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). is one of the last works of the great Berlin-born architect Walter Gropius. and technology. A small botanical museum (open daily 10 a. to 5 p.–6 p. contains vast collections of European and exotic plants. Give yourself an hour or so to stroll through the garden itself. offers an interesting. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. combined ticket 17€ ($25) adults.). houses one of the world’s finest collections of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and Art Deco furniture. U-Bahn: Dahlem–Dorf). 4€ ($5) children younger than 12. www. Klingelhöferstrasse 14 (% 030/254-0020.m. The museum.

dhm.75) for students. is a weird-looking television tower built by the Communists back in the 1960s. Personally. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). (Sat until 10 p. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. www.50€ ($4. Like many German museums. the DDR’s version of a car. admission is 4€ ($5). located on the Spreepromenade directly opposite the Berlin Cathedral. costumes. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). ߜ The Filmmuseum Berlin. The fascinating Marlene memorabilia includes photos. a 39-sq.berliner fernsehturm.filmmuseum-berlin. too.154 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany called the GDR. Sony Center in Potsdamerstrasse 2 (% 030/300-9030. to midnight. to 6 p. You find a revolving restaurant (the Telecafe) up there. and daily November through February from 10 ߜ The Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). the forest’s western border. Visitors can sit in a Trabi. (Thurs until 8 p.-km (15-sq. Alexanderplatz (% 030/242-3333. An elevator whisks you up to the top for a stunning panorama. a native Berliner who catapulted to international fame in 1930 in Josef von Sternberg’s Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel) and went on to become Germany’s only major star in Hollywood. and 3€ ($3. or German Democratic Republic.50) for children under 16.). is a new museum housed in the old Zeughaus (Armory). Panoramastrasse 1a. The tower is open daily March through October from 9 a. ߜ The Grünewald (S-Bahn: Grünewald).-mile) forest that begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm.m. Admission is 6€ ($7.m. I would recommend that you visit the first-floor galleries devoted to World War II. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). ߜ The Fernsehturm am Alexanderplatz (Television Tower). explore a typical DDR living room. in English) before the fall of the wall in 1989. There’s a kind of heartfelt. The rooms are set up chronologically. open doors.. Unter den Linden 2 (% 030/20304-444. appeals to anyone who has an interest in German film or film in general. to midnight. it’s a sobering experience. The museum is open daily from 10 a. winds past several picturesque bays and beaches along the Havel River.m. The entire history of German cinema is documented in rare film clips from the silent era up to the present. to 8 and documents. and rummage through drawers and closets.m. Berliners call it “the speared onion” because of its shape.m. this one is exhaustive and can be exhausting because it attempts to cover 2. www.m.m. the forest stretches some 10km (6 miles) south to the popular Wannsee lake. The elevator to the top costs 8€ ($10) for adults and 3. letters. The museum. www. is open daily from 10 a.m. One wing is devoted to the legendary Marlene Dietrich. Havelchausee. From Heerstrasse. is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area.m.50) for Admission is 5€ ($6. nostalgic charm to many of the exhibits.25).000 years of German history in pictures and documents. You need at least an hour here. while the eastern border is roughly marked off by four lakes: . to 6 p. props.m.

see “Checking out the dance clubs and bars.m. open daily from 10 a.25). art books. www. Prenzlauer Berg has become the new gay area. and the city remains a mecca for international gay and lesbian travelers. www. Berlin is the only city in the world with a gay museum.. in the heart of what has been for decades the gay heart of Berlin. Love Parade/Love Week in July attracts thousands to a huge gay party scene. up to 500. and other languages. Krumme Lanke. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm). Mehringdamm 61 (% 030/6959-9050. and magazines in German. The city’s gay information center is Mann-oMeter. In mid-June. Traditionally. The center is open Monday through Friday from 5 to 9 p. Admission is 5€ ($6. English. Grünewaldsee. is devoted to the powerful works of Berlinborn artist Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945). nonfiction. Gypsies. although on weekends you have plenty of company.000 people congregate for this Gay Pride festival. and other political victims. The Christopher Street Day parade is an even larger citywide gay event that takes place the last week in June. the Grünewald (Green Forest) is a good place to get away from the urban The Schwules Museum (Gay Museum). reads: Totgeschlagen-Totgeschiegen..m.m. The Homosexual Victims of National Socialism). Loaded with wooded paths and sandy beaches.prinz-eisenherz. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder that the Nazis exterminated thousands of homosexuals in addition to millions of Jews. The store. A memorial plaque mounted on the outside south wall of the Nollendorfplatz subway ߜ The Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum.m. The first woman ever . Fasanenstrasse 24 (% 030/882-5210. lesbian and gay life has centered around Nollendorfplatz (U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). and Schildhorn.m. to 8 p. The gay scene is more international in the area around Nollendorfplatz. Lietzenburger Strasse 9a (% 030/313-9936. is a large gallery-like space in Kreuzberg with changing exhibitions on gay life in Germany and around the S-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). In the eastern part of the city. www. Den Homosexuellen Opfern des National Socialismus (Killed and Forgotten.mann-o-meter.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 155 Gay and lesbian Berlin Berlin has a century-old gay and lesbian history. Bülowstrasse 106 (% 030/216-3336. which has had gay bars since the 1920s. Saturday until 5 Schlachtensee. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). The staff is knowledgeable and helpful. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 2 to 6 p. More information on gay life in Berlin is available on the Web site www.schwulesmuseum. For my recommended gay and lesbian nightspots.” later in this chapter. one of the world’s oldest gay and lesbian bookstores. Kreuzberg is another gay-friendly borough with a big selection of bars. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz).de. Nollendorfplatz is the site of the Lesbisch-Schwules Stadtfest (LesbianGay Street Fair). Another good source for information is Eisenherz Buchladen. stocks a vast array of new and rare fiction. the so-called Pink (or Gay) Village. Also see Chapter

Braque. open Tues–Sun 10 a. and Giacometti. % 030/ 2472-4529. The basement rooms display contemporary design from the German Bauhaus school to American Charles Eames and the Memphis design group. You also find a nice cafeteria. the Golden 1920s. to 6 p. Admission is 8€ ($10) for adults. Ku’damm-Karree. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz).75) for children and students. Reconstructed palaces.m. Matthäiskirchplatz. You can see the collection in about half an hour. Named for Berlin’s oldest church. WWII and its aftermath. adjoining the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery. The Nazis later banned her works. and deprivations of wartime and have a stark. ߜ Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit (Berggruen Museum: Picasso and His Times). to 6 p. its most dazzling exhibit. Kollwitz resigned her position in 1933 to protest Hitler’s rise to power.m. The Guelph Treasure. and 3€ ($3..m. Nicholas. displays applied arts and crafts from the Middle Ages through the present day. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. the quarter was the last major reconstruction project of the German Democratic Party that ruled former East Germany. . the upper floors contain sculptures. 4€ ($5) for children. Beginning with the city’s founding in 1237.m. Kurfürstendamm 207–208 (% 030/8872-0100. ߜ The Story of Berlin.m. Kulturforum (% 030/2090-5555. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 11 a. the Nikolaikirche (Church of St.).50) for adults.25) for adults. see earlier description). U-/S-Bahn: Mendelssohn–Bartholdy–Park). Admission is 6€ ($7. down narrow streets illuminated by gas lanterns. to 4:30 p.–6 p. your ticket for the Gemäldegalerie will get you in. including the reign of Frederick the Great. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. the themed exhibits chronicle all the major historical events. open from 10 a.75) for students and children. Schlossstrasse 1 (% 030/3269-5819. period taverns. is a historic riverside quarter restored to resemble its medieval and baroque heyday (with a few modern design touches).156 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany elected to the Prussian Academy of the Arts. is an enjoyable multimedia museum that uses films. not far from the Gendarmenmarkt in Berlin Mitte.m. showcases several important paintings by Picasso and works by Klee.m. a small museum located across from the Egyptian Museum in Charlottenburg. 3€ ($3.m. Admission is 5€ ($6. The lower floors of the museum display woodcuts and lithographs. is a collection of medieval church articles in gold and silver.m. the Industrial Revolution. to 6 p. ߜ Kunstgewerbemuseum (Arts and Crafts Museum). and colorful displays to tell about eight centuries of life in Berlin.m. to 6 p. loss. Matisse. ߜ Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter. photos. grieving quality.m. Nikolaikirchplatz. the church was restored in time for the city’s 750th anniversary in 1987. and old churches make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque ramble along the Spree River. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). sounds.m. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Many of Kollwitz’s works express the sorrow.

m. to 6 p. (last admission 6 p. 7. former residence of Frederick the Great (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). The exhibit is open daily from 10 a. with an additional 2:15 p.m. and Sundays. the Brandenburg Gate. which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and passes most of the major sites in western and eastern Berlin. May–Sept).m. Although you don’t get a guide. At the end of the tour. and covers more sites (and includes add-ons like Potsdam or a river cruise). and the fall of the wall. Saturday.m. making them accessible and enjoyable for kids and adults.50€ ($4.m.. and 2 p.m.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 157 divided Berlin during the Cold War.m. Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour Taking a guided sightseeing tour (Stadtrundfahrt) can help you to see parts of this huge city that you may otherwise miss. 3. You can tour Germany’s capital with an experienced guide by bus. the cheapest bus tour of Berlin is public bus 100. to 8 p. Admission is 9. site of the palace of Sanssouci. to 6 p. From April through October. The museum is open daily from 10 a. daily. The tour passes 14 important stops in Berlin. including the Europa Center.50) for children. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). tour on Fridays. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). Bus tours Severin+Kühn.m. www. Tickets cost 20€ ($25) per person. All tours include a guide who delivers commentaries in German and English. This attraction is a good overall introduction to Berlin that teens may enjoy. head upstairs to the front seats for the best views.30€ ($12) for adults.m. ߜ Topographie des Terrors (Topography of Terror). costs 22€ ($27) per person. and Potsdamer Platz. .). Admission is free. Severin+Kühn also conducts an interesting tour of Potsdam. 2 children). and 21€ ($26) for families (2 adults.). Severin+Kühn offers its Potsdam/Sanssouci tour on Tuesday. Allow at least two hours to see everything. Adolf Hitler.m. The same company’s three-hour “Big Berlin Tour” departs at 10 a. Departures are Tuesday through Sunday at 10 a.m. and Sunday at 10 a. From November through March. The price is 37€ ($46) per person. Saturdays. on foot. (Nov–Mar until 3 p. located in what once was part of the Nazi SS and Gestapo headquarters.50€ ($9) for students. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190.severinkuehn-berlin.m. a guide takes you down to visit an underground nuclear bomb shelter built in the is an open-air exhibit detailing how the Nazis came to power and the crimes against humanity they committed under the leadership of der Führer. offers a two-hour “City Circle Tour” that departs daily every half-hour from 10 a. or by boat. Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 (% 030/2548-6703.m. (until 8 p. Thursday. You can get on and off the bus at any point during the hour. You can catch the double-decker bus in front of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station).

Local waterways include the Spree and Havel rivers — ranging in size from narrow channels to large lakes — in addition to the many canals created in the 19th century. Boat tours A boat tour is the most unusual way to see portions of Berlin. Stern.m. Tours last from 21⁄2 to 3 hours and cost 12€ ($15) for adults. you can request an English translation). What do you see if you have only one. this tour. free for children younger than 14. who wears a Berlin Walks badge. 10€ ($13) for those younger than 26. that all of its tours are given only in German (on most tours. the Königliche Bibliothek (Royal Library).m. and you’ll find several landing docks with waiting boats. You meet the guide. www. on Saturday. only).com). the city’s best-known boat operator. try one of the English-language walking tours offered by Original Berlin Walks (% 030/ 301-9194. www.m.158 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Walking tours For an excellent introduction to Berlin and its history. though. on Sunday. among other major sites. outside the main entrance to Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). (Nov–Mar at 10 a. with an additional Wednesday 10 a. and 2:30 p. Nov–Mar). or three days at your disposal? The itineraries in this section are common-sense. two. in front of the taxi stand.m.und Kreisschiffahrt. .m. starts at 2:30 p. Pushkinallee 60–70 (% 030/536-3600. For descriptions of most of the stops. just walk along the Spreepromenade behind the Berlin cathedral. and Hafen Treptow. tour from April through September (Sat only at 1 p. the tour starts at 10 a. Following an Itinerary Every visitor to Berlin faces one problem: how to see as much as possible in a limited amount of time. Be aware. limited-time suggestions that include the top Berlin sights. available March through October. such as Goebbels’s Propaganda Ministry and Hitler’s New Reichschancellery. 10 a. the Pergamon Museum. and the monumental heart of the former East Mondays from March through September. You don’t need advance reservations for any of the tours. the one-hour “Inner City” trip (8€/$10) departing from Nikolaiviertel offers good views of the Reichstag.berlinwalks. “Infamous Third Reich Sites” focuses on the sites of major Nazi buildings in central Berlin. “Jewish Life in Berlin” takes you through the prewar Jewish community. see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z” earlier in this chapter. “Discover Berlin” is a three-hour introductory tour that takes you past the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate. For a quick and interesting take on Berlin from the water.m. offers boat trips from April through October.sternundkreis. Several other companies offer boat tours as well. This walk starts daily at 10 a. The same company offers other boat tours from Jannowitzbrücke in Berlin-Mitte Schlossbrücke near Charlottenburg Palace.m.

.m. and cutlery. For the two major Trödelmarkts (flea markets). exploring the nearby Gendarmenmarkt and paying a brief visit to the Pergamon Museum to see the Pergamon Altar and/or the Altes Museum to view the famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti. often to 8:30 p. to 6 or 6:30 p.m. German porcelain. and their prices are lower here than in the United States. If you have three days in Berlin Spend half of the third day in Potsdam. a concert. Return to Potsdamer Platz to see the newest section of Berlin. If you have two days in Berlin On the second day. Some stores in highly trafficked areas (such as the Hauptbahnhof) are open on Sunday. symbol of Berlin. but Sunday shopping is otherwise not common. First visit the Reichstag. except on the sales racks in the department stores. Saturday hours usually are from 9 or 10 a. then walk down Unter den Linden. Most stores in Berlin are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. followed by a visit to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) and the Neue Nationalgalerie. stop in at Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. to 2 p.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 159 If you have one day in Berlin Start early. In the evening. both in the Kulturforum. take a walking or bus tour of Berlin (see “Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour. visiting the palace of Sanssouci and grounds (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). But keep in mind that you’ll pay less for goods made in Germany and the European Union than for goods imported to Germany from the United States.m.” earlier). for example. In the evening. crystal. In the afternoon. Many stay open late on Thursday evenings. enjoy an opera. china. or a cabaret/variety show. and end with a stroll down Unter den Linden or the Kurfürstendamm. are prized for their quality.m. where the new dome provides a marvelous view out over the city. Don’t expect a lot of “deals” in Berlin. with its Cold War museum. Shopping for Local Treasures Berlin is a great shopping city and you can find just about anything you want.m. walk along the Kurfürstendamm and dine in a local restaurant. From there you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. and then go on to Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) for a palace tour. head over to the Jüdisches Museum in Freuzberg or explore the Tiergarten. see the “Berlin flea markets” sidebar. Afterward.

m. and more expensive. but it’s best to come early because many traders leave by midafternoon. short for Kurfürstendamm (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). The specialty stores on the side streets around the Ku-Damm. is the favorite weekend shopping spot for countless Berliners. adjacent to the Tiergarten S-Bahn station near the corner of the Bachstrasse and Strasse des 17 Juni.160 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Shopping in western Berlin Throughout the decades when the wall divided Berlin. where you can browse for clothing and bric-a-brac. S-Bahn: Tiergarten). The same times apply to the flea market at Heidestrasse (% 030/452-9924. Another good shopping street in western Berlin. including books. truth to tell.. check out the flea market at Arkonaplatz (% 030/786-9764. especially between Breitscheidplatz and Olivaer Platz. close to Ku-Damm.m. and records. many specializing in German fashions for women. is on Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). Quality stores. U-Bahn: Reinickendorfer Strasse). the Europa Center (% 030/3480088). Ranke Strasse. here you’ll find antiques and collectibles. trendier. is Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) and its intersecting streets: Marburger Strasse. The Berliner Trödelmarkt (no phone. who come to find pieces of kitsch. Neighborhoods and malls The main shopping boulevard in the western part of Berlin is the famous Ku-Damm. sort-of antiques. and Nürnberger Strasse. to 5 p. . an upscale. nostalgia. outdoor retail “passage” created right on the Ku-Damm at Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Berlin’s first shopping mall. which remains the best place for allpurpose. porcelain. all-around shopping. furniture. Berlin flea markets A flea market in Germany is called a Trödelmarkt or a Flohmarkt. in addition to stores carrying cheap souvenirs and T-shirts. line the street. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse). The shopping scene has definitely moved east as well. are good shopping grounds. But.m. just take a seat at one of the many cafes around Arkonaplatz and enjoy the scene in one of Berlin’s hippest neighborhoods. The market is open every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. Europa Center has lost much of its allure and looks dated compared to the newly opened Neues Kranzler Eck. Stores here often are cheaper than on the fancier KuDamm. which is currently undergoing a piecemeal renovation/face-lift to bring it up to par with eastern Berlin and lure back shoppers. here you find around 75 shops joined by restaurants and cafes. If you’re in Mitte on Sunday between 10 a. If nothing catches your fancy. the only decent shopping was in western Berlin. but the stores there tend to be newer. and 6 p. and used clothing.m. This area offers a wide array of stores.

and happening neighborhood area is eastern Berlin’s Scheuneviertel. Uhlandstrasse 181–183 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Bleibtreustrasse 30 (% 030/885-0080. Department stores Kaufhaus des Westens (called KaDeWe [ka-day-vay] for short). Shoppers interested in quality at any price need to head to Kempinski Plaza. Bleibtreustrasse 51 (% 030/312-0913. a small. Kurfürstendamm 42 (% 030/881-1000. The Uhland-Passage. named for the hay barns that once stood here. Grosse Hamburger Strasse. fashionable women’s shoe store with a helpful staff. Bleibgrün. known for its six floors of upscale merchandise and sixth-floor food department. electrical devices. has some of the best boutiques and big-name stores in Berlin. The area later became Berlin’s Jewish quarter. Rosenthaler Strasse. is a couture hatmaker inspired by vintage fashion magazines and glamorous . jewelry. Fashion Every big-name designer you can think of has a store in Berlin. home to some of the most exclusive boutiques in the city. The spaces within the courtyards have now been turned into a series of galleries. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). You find trendier boutiques along Bleibtreustrasse. household goods. and theaters. at Uhlandstrasse 170 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). and Sophienstrasse. but here are some lesser-known retail venues that may be of interest to fashionistas. Bogner Zenker-Berlin. The new Potsdamer Platz Arkaden (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). or “barn district” (S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). scattered over three levels. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). and. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Some of the stores offer cost-cutting clothing and housewares. and souvenirs. is a long-established shop for men’s and women’s clothing made in Germany. arts. clothing for the entire family. A grand pre–World War I shopping arcade with interconnected courtyards (Hinterhöfe) occupies most of the block formed by Oranienburger Strasse. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Kurfürstendamm 231 (% 030/ 880-030. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). photography supplies. Cutting-edge shops line the streets around the arcade. Chapeaux Hutmode Berlin. Wertheim has a large restaurant with a view over half the city. with more being added all the time. is a huge department store. one of the most comprehensive shopping malls in Berlin. contains about 100 shops.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 161 Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel The newest shopping. studios. Wertheim. is good for travel aids and general basics: perfumes. including haute-couture women’s clothing. some of its oldest buildings survived the World War II bombing raids that reduced most of Berlin to rubble. and Italy. Austria. Tauentzien 21 (% 030/21210. amazingly.

now offers some of Berlin’s most elegant shopping. Charlottenstrasse 34 (% 030/20458166. orchestra and chamber concerts. The main street. Berlin’s nightlife is legendary. variety shows. Friedrichstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Royal Porcelain Factory). S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). and theater performances every night of the week. The largest shopping mall in eastern Berlin. carries the most avant-garde jewelry in Berlin. Rosenthal. and chandeliers. For more shopping in the eastern part. Porcelain and china Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur (KPM. offers an array of Meissen dinner plates. . with hundreds of bars. Perfumes Harry Lehmann.” in this chapter. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).and 19th-century KPM designs. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorferstrasse). The prices are amazingly reasonable for the quality of the perfumes. Kantstrasse 106 (% 030/324-3582. Kurfürstendamm 27 in Kempinski Hotel Bristol (% 030/8867-2110. sculptures.162 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany movies from the 1930s. Meissener Porzellan. offering a little bit of everything. is at the Berliner Markthalle. grasses. Savignyplatz 13 Passage (% 030/ 3180-2354. see “Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Shopping in eastern Berlin The eastern part of the city has undergone major changes in the retail sector since reunification. Kurfürstendamm 226 (% 030/8856340. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). sells porcelain pieces hand-painted and handdecorated with patterns based on traditional 18th. showcasing more than three dozen of the boldest jewelry artisans in the city. clubs. and leaves. at the corner of Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). Treykorn. Discovering Nightlife in Berlin You find more going on in Berlin than in any other city in Germany. one of the most famous porcelain manufacturers in Europe. distilled from flowers. The performing-arts scene is jammed with opera. is a wonderfully old-fashioned parfumerie where most of the scents come from old family recipes. is the place to go for contemporary Rosenthal porcelain and china from Bavaria. and cabarets appealing to every taste. dance. with upmarket boutiques selling everything from women’s fashions to Meissen porcelain.

Unsold. ballet. musicals. Bismarckstrasse 35 (% 030/341-0249 for recorded information or 030/343-8401. available at all newsstands. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garter) and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 12. Alternatively.m. up to the time of performance and on Sunday from 10 and theater venues throughout Berlin are sold for up to 50 percent off at the BERLIN infostores. . Tickets can usually be purchased right up to curtain time. If the venue doesn’t have its own Web site. You also can buy tickets for locations and opening hours. and dozens of theaters and cabarets. the Deutsche Oper Berlin.m. for the latest schedules of what’s going on where.m. both are open Monday through Friday from 10 a. ballet companies. on the S-Bahn bridge at Alexanderplatz (% 030/230-9930. Getting tickets You can buy tickets at the venue’s box office (the box office is called a Ticket prices range from about 23€ to 80€ ($29–$100). to 6 p.hekticket. Whenever possible. to 2 p. I include Web sites in this section so you can check performance schedules and ticket information before you arrive in Berlin. For some of the larger three opera houses. dance. you may be able to order tickets online at www. deutscheoperberlin. you can buy tickets from ticket agencies. pronounced kah-suh). click “Culture” to access a complete list of events in any category for the specific dates of your visit. see Chapter 11. day-of-performance tickets for A Berlin Welcome Card (see Chapter 11) allows you to buy reduced-price tickets (usually 25 percent off) at several major performing-arts venues.m. The box office is open Monday through Saturday from 11 or Berlin Programm. classical concerts. Tickets for more than 100 venues. you can buy tickets online. you won’t be lacking for things to do. and cabarets are available at Hekticket (www.zitty. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). which charge a commission. including opera. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Good news for culture vultures: With three major symphony orchestras. Opera and ballet In Charlottenburg. so everyone can get home at a reasonable hour.m. with outlets at Hardenbergstrasse 29 (% 030/2309930. U-Bahn: Deutsche Oper). and classical-music venues. www.. An excellent online source is www.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 163 Finding out what’s happening Check the listings in Zitty (www. You can see both opera and ballet here in a house with no bad sightlines. The newest trend is to start performances as early as 6 p. including the opera houses. is the 1950s-era opera house that served the former West Berlin.

and one hour before performances. The Web site www. Different ticket prices apply for each event.m. www. The historic Schauspielhaus in the former East Berlin has undergone a stunning transformation and is now the Konzerthaus am U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). Berlin’s Komische Oper..staatsoper-berlin. www.164 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. and symphony concerts are performed You can buy tickets online. Matthäikirchstrasse 1 (box office % 030/2548-8999.m. is housed in a historic building in U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). Ticket prices range from about 7€ ($8.m. so if you want to hear this fabulous orchestra. Prices ranges from 8€ to 62€ ($10–$77).berlin-touristinformation. If you don’t speak the language but want to experience German theater. and Sunday from 1 p. most of the plays are performed in Theater Berlin’s theater scene is outstanding. Chamber-music concerts are given at the adjoining Kammermusiksaal. pitchperfect hall. Behrenstrasse 55–57 (% 030/4799-7400. the Berlin Symphony. The box office (Unter den Linden 4) is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. Berlin Phil concerts always sell out. and Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 8 p.komische-oper-berlin.m. the renowned Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Sir Simon Rattle plays in the acoustically outstanding www. www. The Berliner Grundtheater (% 030/7800-1497.m. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). to the time of performance. www.konzerthaus. operas. is a famous and well-respected East Berlin house with a unique artistic identity. of course.m. The programs feature opera and ballet performances. Symphony orchestras and classical music In the Kulturforum complex.m. musicals. Tickets range from about 20€ to 80€ ($25–$100).de) performs English-language plays in different venues around the city. to 2 has a useful listing of plays and films in English.75) for standing room to 110€ ($137). to 7 p. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p. and an hour before performances. Gendarmenmarkt (% 030/203-090. which is open daily noon to 6 p. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). You can buy tickets at the Konzerthaus box office. Tickets are available at the box offices of both venues. Unter den Linden 7 (% 030/20-35-40.m.m. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. to 8 p. performs at both the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt. but. some seats in the upper rings have limited views of the stage. I . The Berlin Symphony Orchestra and other orchestras and classical music groups perform in this glittering. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.. I suggest you order your tickets online several weeks before your trip. The city’s third major orchestra.

m.cabaret-chez-nous. depending on the show and the day you attend.m.m. Shows and showtimes vary.m. Europa Center. in Mitte. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). www. This section includes just a few of the bars and dance clubs in Berlin. and 9:15 p. with 4 U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). visit The most expensive seats are on stage level.m. Marburgerstrasse 14 (% 030/213-1810.m. Cover is 29€ to 59€ ($36–$74). is a big theater that features variety acts from around the world.diestachelschweine. Ticket prices range from about 5€ to 30€ ($6.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 165 recommend going to see a production by the famous Berliner Ensemble. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1 (% 030/2840-8155. For more listings. friedrichstadtpalast. Playwright Bertolt Brecht formed this group with his wife. Ticket prices range from 17€ to 61€ ($21–$76). The box office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. and spending an evening in one can be enjoyable even if you don’t speak a word of German. and Saturday at 6 p. Monday through Friday. too). Checking out the dance clubs and bars If you’re into nightlife. and one hour before performances. when the theater’s closed) the performances begin at 8 p.. but most nights (except Mon. Shows take place Tuesday through Friday at 7:30 p. www. Cover is 35€ ($44). to 6 p. is a cabaret that’s been poking fun at the German and American political scenes for many years now. Nightly shows start at 8:30 and 11 p. www.m. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m.25–$37). to 6 p. you can find something to do all across the city. This cabaret is closed in July. Cabarets and variety shows Berlin has long been famous for its cabarets and variety shows. Friedrichstadt-Palast. and Saturday at 6 and 10 p. acrobats. Shows begin at 8 wintergarten-variete. . Helene Weigel. Potsdamer Strasse 96 (% 030/2500-8888. and live music. is a famous little cabaret where all the performers are in extravagant drag and most of the audience is heterosexual. Part of the performance usually involves a selection of popular songs. jugglers. with a nightly variety show featuring magicians.berliner-ensemble.m. The cover charge is 12€ to 26€ ($14–$32). Tauentzienstrasse and Budapester Strasse (% 030/261-4795.m.m. Wintergarten Variété. matinees on Saturday and Sunday. Chez Nous Travestie-Theater. U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse).de.. Believing that these glamorous ladies are really gentlemen sometimes is difficult. Friedrichstrasse 107 (% 030/2326-2326. is the largest and most nostalgic Berlin cabaret. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). www. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm) and many theater fans enjoy seeing Brecht’s plays performed in “his” theater. balconies have conventional theater seats (but drinks are sold there. Die Stachelschweine (The Porcupine). www.

Mohrenstrasse 30 (% 030/20230. and highly danceable music.m.. to 4 a. is a four-story club with live rock shows four nights a week featuring German and international touring bands.166 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bars and clubs don’t generally get going until midnight. smoky jazz club featuring musicians from around the world. The club is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9 p. Friday. in trendy Kreuzberg. Oranienstrasse 190 (% 030/6140-1306.m. Greifswalderstrasse 224 (% 030/442-7060. Far Out.m.m. You always find dancing on Wednesday. but a packed club can stay open until 6 a. video clips. U-Bahn: Prinzenstrasse). Cover is 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). Quasimodo. housed in an old theater with an Egyptian temple interior. Pestalozzistrasse 105 (% 030/313-2550.50€ ($7). . in happening Prenzlauer Berg. Metropole. to 4 a. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). has two very large rooms. to 4 a. a stage for floor shows. where you encounter many different styles of music. industrial-looking late-night disco that plays mostly high-energy retro rock for a crowd that includes lots of students.m. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). The club is open Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte).m.m. to 5 a. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). to 4 a. to 2 a. is a small.m. depending on the night and who’s playing. Friday and Saturday from 9 p.m. Cover is 5. Knaack-Klub.m. Cover usually is about 5€ ($6.m. Cover is 10€ to 16€ ($13–$19). to 4 a. Kantstrasse 12A (% 030/312-8086. Please keep in mind that new bars open and bars close all the time. Live music A Trane. Many bars now have an open-ended closing policy. This section includes places that are likely to be around for years to come. including rock and Latin jazz.m. draws a young 20-something crowd. so call first.75–$10). is Berlin’s top jazz club.m. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz). Berlin Hilton. Saturday and Sunday until 7 a. to 4 a. is a glossy and popular dance club with a great lighting system.m.. and fog machine. Nollendorfplatz 5 (% 030/217-3680..m. The club is open Monday through Thursday from 8 p. depending on the band. and Saturday nights.m.25). Kurfürstendamm 156 (% 030/3200-0717. Hours are Monday to Friday 10 p.m.m. U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). the crowd is a hip mixture of gay and straight. An empty club may choose to close at 2 a. is a large. Club hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 10 p. The club is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 p. otherwise 13€ ($16). call first to verify. The club is open most nights from 10:30 p. Show days vary. SO36.m. Dance clubs Chip..75–$10). The cover ranges from 3€ to 8€ ($3. Cover is 3€ to 8€ ($3. Admission is free on Tuesday and Wednesday when local musicians perform.

Fasanenstrasse 9 (% 030/311-030.m. Many Berliners have a favorite Kneipe where they stop in after work or later in the evening for a beer and a chat with their friends. to 2 a. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz). These places tend to be fashion-conscious. unpretentious spot for a plain old glass of bier vom Fass (beer on tap)? What you need is a Kneipe (ka-nigh-puh). to 10 a. Lützowufer 15 in Grand Hotel Esplanade (% 030/ 2547-8821. and photographs of American presidents. and rockabilly. geared toward a very late-night glamour crowd. is reminiscent of a wood-paneled private club in London. great dance music. to 4 a. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz).m. The bar is open daily from 3 p.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 167 Wild at Heart.m. Neighborhood bars: Kneipes and Lokals Do you want to find a casual. less for a glass of beer.m. Popular bars Later is better if you want to go out barhopping and see what’s happening in Berlin.m.m. rock. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). A small bar like this sometimes is called a Lokal (low-call). Saturday and Sunday from 8 p. is dedicated to hard-core punk. . more for anything exotic. The club is open Monday through Friday from 8 p. Harry’s New York Bar. a cozy place similar to a neighborhood pub in the United Kingdom. with minimalist décor. is hip and fun. Lore Berlin is open nightly until 3 a.m. Reingold. Expect to pay at least 6€ ($7. is chic and elegant. Brewpubs also are good places to sample beer. Times Bar. and an intriguing mix of people hanging around a long and narrow bar with theatrical lighting that makes almost everyone look attractive..m. otherwise free. The place is open nightly until 4 a. features cutting-edge design. cozy. Times Bar is open daily from 11 a. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). Savoy Hotel. and they offer meals (see the “Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs” sidebar in this chapter).50) for a straightforward drink. Bar am Lützowplatz. Admission is about 4€ ($5) for concerts. Harry’s is open daily from noon to 2 a. until 4 a. Wienerstrasse 20 (% 030/611-7010. 11 Novalistrasse (% 030/2838-7676. with bands from Germany and elsewhere playing Wednesday through Saturday nights. The Times Bar isn’t a late-nightscene bar. The following bars currently are popular.m.m. so you may feel out of place if you show up in blue jeans and sneakers. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Bahnhof). and intimate. quiet. pop art. Lützowplatz 7 (% 030/262-6807. Lore Berlin. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). has a menu listing almost 200 drinks and a limited selection of food.m. Neue Schönhauser Strasse 20 (% 030/2804-5134. but rather a place where you can relax in a big leather chair and read The Times of London. one of the longest and narrowest bars in Berlin.

to 10:30 p. topfermented beer.4-liter) serving (3.m. Wilmersdorferstrasse 149 (% 030/341-8174. dumplings.m. a former garrison town on the Havel River. and salads) to accompany your beer. blond. Bartenders pour more than a dozen kinds of beer and serve wine by the glass. to midnight. is now the capital of the state of Brandenburg. to midnight. Gasthaus Luisenbräu..m. The smoky interior of this brewpub is comfortably Old Berlin. blond. Gaststätte Hoeck is the oldest Kneipe in Charlottenburg and still has its original wood panels with inlaid glass on the walls. main courses go for 9. and raucous.90–$16).000th anniversary in 1993 and has historic sites of its own.m. but be sure to make the palace of Sanssouci your top priority.50€ to 13€ ($12–$16). the helles (light) is top-fermented. a brewpub in the Nikolaiviertel beside the River Spree. Luisenplatz 1 (% 030/341-9388. Potsdam. Allow yourself at least half a day to visit this remarkable palace and its beautiful grounds.) . to 12:30 a. You can order beer in a smallish 6-ounce (0. Traditional food is served in an adjacent room Monday through Saturday from 11 a. You can order hearty portions of German food (meat.60€/$2) or in an 11-ounce (0. smoky. You can choose between beers brewed on-premises.2-liter) glass (1. opened in 1987 across the street from Charlottenburg Palace. U-Bahn: Klostergasse). even though the building is relatively new. a yeasty aroma.168 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs The first Bierhaus (brewpub. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz). unfiltered. main courses run from 5.m. also unfiltered and topfermented. or microbrewery) in Berlin. U-Bahn: Bismarckstrasse). Friday and Saturday 10 a. Dating from 1892. and a nice balance of hop bitterness and malt flavor. Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci Frederick the Great’s Schloss Sanssouci (palace of Sanssouci) in Potsdam is the architectural signature of one of Germany’s most dominating personalities.m. Spreeufer 4 (% 030/242-4244. Hours are 8 a. sauerkraut. The Gasthof is open daily from 10 a. is named after the statue of St. (See the “Potsdam” map on the next page.m.. has a darkish amber color. The bar can be loud.20€/$4). 24km (15 miles) southwest of Berlin.50€ to 13€ ($6.m. A famous one is Gaststätte Hoeck. You can also order plates of hearty German food. Berlin is home to hundreds of Kneipes and Lokals. The dunkles (dark). The brewpub is open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a. George right outside. to 2 a. The town celebrated its 1. Gasthaus Georgenbräu. and unfiltered. The house beer is a pale.

turn left. 695 in front of the station and ride nine stops to the Schloss Sanssouci stop. the cost is generally about 40€ ($50) for a half-day fast-track tour.25 mi N DINING Biergarten 6 Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle” 7 ATTRACTIONS Bildergalerie 5 Chinesische Teehaus 3 Neues Palais 1 Orangerie 2 Schloss Cecilienhof 8 Schloss Sanssouci 4 Information i Railway Getting there To get to Sanssouci. Str. you must first get to Potsdam.Ossietzky-Str. nal rlin ho 6 7 pe Gregornh Mendel-Str. lst ze str. tten Charlo str. rgstr s PA R K S A N S S O U C I 5 tr. Nedlitzer St en str . He zig Tor no eip Im Bogen 631 610 606 Str. ch- Schloss Charlottenhof Kastanienallee Am Ka n ue Ne en AmGart M an g str. The trip couldn’t be easier: From Berlin. 94 95 W BRANDENBURGER VORSTADT St or m . 608 ls-Str.60€ ($2).. au 4 er .25 km 0. C. The bus fare is 1. str S-Bahn Station S inr ich t ies te-P en ule str wk . ws Havel -M er an nAl lee L 0 0 0. . en dt M ran mb Re Am Neuen Palais Linden str. Tiefer See Hu Br mbo üc ld ke t- Nu th es Breite Str Forststr. Weinbe Hauptallee lallee e 1 Heg 3 Jägera 2 Sc Friedrich-Ebert-Str.-V. Jungfernsee 8 GERMANY ee ha ll ds Am un Frankfurt Munich Am S Pap pela llee chra g BORNSTEDT Ka th ho arin lzs en tr. If you don’t want to hassle with anything. Lo a- St r. Dortustr. Eichenallee n str. Feue rba str. rn Bo NEUER GARTEN Heiliger See rsc rten Ki un ds e Am Ruinenberg llee BERLINER VORSTADT er str . Str Kurfü rsten er ass e H. s te r dte g irewe Volta Allee str. Hop on bus no. Lindenavenue Be konomieweg Ökonomieweg Lennéstr. 694 tr. Fried rich-E nge Sch laa tzs tr. Ne uen 692 en Am Ga B273 Po tsdam er Str. you can take one of the Potsdam–Sanssouci bus tours offered by the sightseeing bus companies on Ku-Damm (see “Bus tours” earlier in this chapter).-Sachs-Str. r. and you’ll almost immediately come to a flight of stairs leading up to the palace.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 169 Potsdam Hamburg 614 Berlin Potsdam r. S-Bahn line S7 stops at the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station. Cross the road. str Ze e pp lin . Potsdam Hauptbahnhof asse i ge Lan cke Brü tr.

. If you don’t arrive early. brochures. From then on.m. The tour is given only in In short. All kinds of rococo treasures fill the palace. Potsdam was a royal hangout. www.m. to 5 p. Friedrich II (called Frederick the Great. You find another tourist office at Am Neuen Markt 1 (% 0331/275-580).m.m. Your ticket tells you what time you can enter the palace to begin your guided tour. and make music with composer Carl Philip Emanuel Bach. and you must ask for them. Schloss (Palace) Sanssouci (% 0331/969-4190) is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.25) for children and students. and inexpensive guidebooks for both the town and the palace are available at the Potsdam tourist information office in the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (% 0331/270-9051. 1712–1786) built in Potsdam a “small” country palace where he could retire sans souci (without a care) and indulge his passions for music. Either before or after your tour.m. open Monday through Friday from 9:30 a. (Nov–Mar from 10 a.) and on Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. and 5€ ($6. Waits in summer months can be up to three hours long. Sat–Sun until 2 p.170 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding tourist information Maps. Sanssouci was built between 1745 and 1747 as Frederick’s summerhouse. poetry. (in winter. to 8 p. which you see on a tour that lasts about 45 minutes. You can see the palace only on a guided tour costing 8€ ($10) for adults. to 6 p. All the buildings listed here are signposted so you won’t get lost on the grounds.m. open daily from 9 a. and his planning still is evident in the restored vineyard terraces and the area immediately around the palace.m. A timed-entry system is in effect at Sanssouci.). (Nov–Mar to 4 p. To escape the rigors of Berlin court life. leafy. spend some time wandering through the magnificent landscaped gardens with their bevy of historic buildings. lakey area to be his second seat of residence outside Berlin. Before setting off on the tour. and philosophy. Your tour time is printed on your ticket. a place where he could let his wig down.m. discuss weighty matters with French philosopher Voltaire.m. Discovering the top attractions Potsdam didn’t gain true importance until the “Great Elector” Friedrich Wilhelm (1620–1688) chose the lovely.potsdam. One of the greatest and most beautiful examples of European rococo. Fred the Great created the original design for the grounds. Sanssouci was a summer resort for an enlightened monarch. you’re required to don huge felt slippers so you don’t scuff the floors.m. to 4 p. but information sheets in English are available from the guide.). you may have to wait for a much later tour.m.

The privileged classes would retire here to drink a new beverage called tea. open May–Sept daily 10 a.m. to 5 p. The Orangerie is open mid-May to midOctober. Admission is 8€ ($10) for a grand tour of all the rooms.m.S. Admission is 2€ ($2. Inside you see rococo rooms filled with paintings and antiques. In the adjacent pavilion.).m. You can eat for under 4€ ($5) and sit at outdoor tables.–6 p.m. including U. to 5 p. west of the palace.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 171 ߜ The Bildergalerie (Picture Gallery. . to 5 p. President Harry Truman. (Nov–Mar until 4 p.). (closed Thurs). contains copies of paintings by Raphael and features ornately decorated salons.m.). ߜ The Chinesische Teehaus (Chinese Teahouse) is a little gem of a rococo building resembling a pagoda. The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. More interesting are the rooms used for the Potsdam Conference.m. At the end of WWII. % 0331/969-4255). Now the palace serves as a hotel and conference center. Schloss Cecilienhof (Cecilienhof Palace. Dining at Sanssouci From May through September. to 5 p.m. The palace is open Saturday through Thursday from 9 a. ߜ The mid-19th-century Orangerie (% 0331/969-4280).) across the road behind the palace of Sanssouci. and Russian dictator Joseph Stalin. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. On a guided tour.m. % 0331/969-4200) was a royal residence from 1917 until 1945. This building is not open to the public. Ornamental “Oriental” buildings like this were all the rage in 18th-century Europe.m.75). ߜ The Neues Palais (New Palace. you find the fancier Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle. inexpensive bite at the Biergarten kiosk (no phone.m. ߜ Built to look like an English country manor. the palace was used as headquarters for the Potsdam Conference attended by the heads of the Allied powers.m. % 0331/969-4181). (Nov–Mar until 4 p. 10 a. to 5 p. was completed in 1769 and used by the Hohenzollern royal family.50). Admission is 3€ ($3. (Nov–Mar until 4 p.m. you can grab a quick.” where you can order a complete meal (open year-round daily 10 a. was completed in 1763 and displays a collection of works from the Italian Renaissance and baroque eras. The food is basic wursts with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad).m. the largest building in Sanssouci park.m. on the eastern side of the palace grounds. you can visit the private rooms used by Crown Prince Wilhelm and Princess Cecelie. Admission for the guided tour is 8€ ($10).). The gallery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.

Two convenient bank branches with 24-hour ATM service are Deutsche Bank at Wittenbergplatz (U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz) and Dresdner Bank at Kurfürstendamm 237 (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).m. You can also exchange money at American Express (see the beginning of this list for addresses). Dentists and Doctors You’ll find a list of doctors and specialists in the Berlin Yellow Pages or. South African. for an emergency dentist.K. and Saturday 10 a. call % 112 for an ambulance.m. embassies and consulates. to 9 p. Berlin phone numbers may have from five to eight digits. Country Code and City Code The city code for Berlin is 30. to 1 or 3 p. On langer Samstag (longer Saturday). open Monday through Friday 9 a. Business Hours Most banks are open Monday through Friday 9 a. in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz or Unter den Linden) and under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at .m.m. use 030.m. For an emergency doctor. to 7 p. Emergencies To call the police. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).m. In an emergency. to 2 p. dial % 112. to 1 p.m. to 6 p. Irish.. you can locate a doctor through Call a Doc. dial % 110.m. % 01804/ 2255-2362.m. See also “Telephone” later in this list and in the appendix. Use 30 whenever you’re calling Berlin from outside Germany.S. ATMs You find ATMs all across Berlin.). To report a fire or to summon an ambulance. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).m. and U.m. and Saturday from 9 a. Information The main tourist information centers. the first Saturday of the month. and Saturday 10 a. called BERLIN infostores.. If you’re calling within Berlin. Currency Exchange The currency exchange offices in the Hauptbahnhof and Bahnhof Zoo are open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. and Friedrichstrasse 172 (% 030/201-7400. U. Some stores stay open late on Thursday (usually until 8:30 p. Except in the train stations. call % 030/8900-4333. Canadian. in Neue Kranzler Eck at Ku-Damm and Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). stores are generally not open on Sunday. If you’re within Germany but not in Berlin. are located in the Hauptbahnhof (U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). open Monday through Friday 9 a. call % 030/31-00-31 (24 hours).m. to 7 p. Hospitals Hotel employees are familiar with the location of the nearest hospital emergency room.m.m.m.172 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Fast Facts: Berlin American Express American Express has two main offices: Bayreutherstrasse 37–38 (% 030/21476292.m.m.m. Embassies and Consulates See the appendix for the addresses of the Australian.m. to 2 p. shops stay open until 4 or 6 p. for a per-minute land-line telephone fee. Most other businesses and stores are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. and on Sunday from 10 a. to 6 or 6:30 p.m.

de) provides U-Bahn information (% 030/19449) and S-Bahn information (% 030/2974-3333) daily from 6 a. most accept only Telefonkarte (telephone cards). branch locations are in the Sony Center and Karl-Marx-Strasse 78. The same hours . Transit Assistance The Transit Authority (BVG.50 and $31) denominations at any post office or news vendor. go to Europa–Apotheke. In Mitte.m. if there is an attendant..bvg. U-/S-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). To make an international call. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Many phones also accept Visa cards. cities. check out Chapter 11. in others. Kurfürstendamm 224 (www. For more about fares and where to call for a taxi.m. to 10 p. Some require 0. use common sense and caution when you’re in a crowded public area. Taxes See the appendix for details.m. Internet Access One of Berlin’s largest Internet cafes is EasyEverything. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Taxis You can hail taxis along Berlin’s major streets. see the appendix. go to the nearest one and look for a sign in the window giving the address of the nearest pharmacy with nighttime hours (such postings are required by law). until noon. dial % 110. For more. Pharmacies If you need a pharmacy (Apotheke.m. ah-potay-kuh) at night. Maps The most detailed Berlin map with a complete street index is the fold-out Falk plan. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12 (% 030/261-4142. You can also make long-distance calls from post offices. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. Newspapers and Magazines Newsstands carry Zitty and BerlinProgramm. Saturday 8 a. Single women need to avoid the dimly lit streets in Kreuzberg at night. use a call box marked Inlands und Auslandsgespräche. www. is the Dorotheenstadtische Apotheke. to 6 p. Restrooms You find public facilities throughout Berlin and at all train terminals. For a centrally located pharmacy. located near the Europa Center. a few steps from Unter den Linden. you are expected to leave 0. Post Office The main post office at Joachimstaler Strasse 7 (% 030/8870-8611.m. to midnight. Telephones Finding a coin-operated telephone in Berlin is now rare. 173 Regular post office hours are Monday through Friday 8 As in any large metropolis.50€ to get in through a turnstile. to midnight. which list events around the city. Most have instructions in English. Safety Berlin is safer than most large U. easyeverything.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Alexanderplatz (S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Police To call the police. available at most newsstands. see Chapter 11. offering over 300 terminals.S. which you can purchase in 6€ and 25€ ($7. Taxis with illuminated roof signs are available. Sunday and holidays from 10 a. For hours and other information about each office. Friedrichstrasse 154 (% 030/204-4817.m.20€ as you depart.

Weather You can check the weather online before you go at www. Web Sites The best overall Web sites for tourist information on Berlin are www. restaurants.zitty. and more. www. where you can buy tickets and obtain a free transit map. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany apply to the BVG information kiosk outside Bahnhof Zoo. you find information in English about At these sites. and nightlife.

If you’re traveling in the north. raincoat. windswept. Everyone carries away a different impression of this bustling. even during the summer. prosperous city. which also is one of Germany’s 16 federal states. km (294 sq. and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the port city of Hamburg ᮣ Touring the ancient city of Bremen ᮣ Exploring medieval Lübeck T his chapter covers three cities in northern Germany with long histories of seafaring. a city of “high culture” and elegance and obsessed with making money. Bremen. Lübeck. For others. the most powerful commercial network in Europe. located on the Elbe River about 100km (62 miles) from the North Sea. Hamburg. watery landscape that spreads out over 754 sq. Hamburg is sin-city . but also densely green and filled with trees. Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World Hamburg. In medieval times. Some find Hamburg to be a bit smug. marshlands. miles). and Bremen were important members of the Hanseatic League. and lakes. Hansa cities formed trade affiliations that linked northern Germany to the eastern Baltic regions and Scandinavia. an umbrella. In fact. Don’t expect dry. (See the “Hamburg” map in this chapter. sunny weather in northern Germany at any time of the year. A sense of the vast northern seas permeates the city. and commerce. has a flat. often gray and misty. Hamburg and Lübeck still retain the term Hansestadt (Hanseatic City) in their official titles. even haughty.) The terrain is characteristic of northern Germany: low.Chapter 13 Hamburg. and sweater probably will come in handy. trade.

Michaelis a7 str Tierpark Hagenbeck 1 ch ba Wallringpark: Alter Botanischer Garten 13 Grosse Wallanlagen 10 Kleine Wallanlagen 11 Planten und Blomen 12 Keiler 1 HOHELUFT Le hm w eg Ho he g R2 or nd r fe we Jungfrauenthal luf tch au sse G E Hamburg Berlin NY Frankfurt M A R Munich pe ism c ar ks tr se as Ep e Innocentiapark B HARVESTEHUDE Werder- Sc asse hla EIMSBÜTTEL Bu nde sstr nk re ye Hallerstrasse ee Be sse Ludw igErha S t r a sr d se Karolinenstr kort stra Al t on asse r ae St ra ss e SternschanzenHeinrichpark HertzTurm Re str ntz as else Planten un Blomen 12 Alter Botanischer Garten Har Feldstrasse 13 Kleine Wallanlagen -Fock rch 11 Go Ha u 4 sse e cis 2 3 ch Heiligengeistfeld au 10 Gla Grosse Wallanlagen ll Gr ilh elm ps all im wa ind am Sc hl elh r-W F r u c h t a ll e e S chä fer k um St Gros Freih se eit Thadenstrasse erL o u ise-S c h r ö d sse Stra Simon -von- Utrecht-Strasse ALTONA 4 ST.176 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg ACCOMMODATIONS Aussen Alster 28 Hamburg Marriott 15 Hotel Hafen Hamburg 6 Hotel Side 14 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg 26 Park Hyatt Hamburg 22 Pension Helga Schmidt 25 Wedina 27 DINING Apples Restaurant 22 Cremon Weinkeller 17 Die Rösterei 23 Eisenstein 3 Fischküche Karin Brahm 18 Le Paquebot 20 Melange 6 Ratsweinkeller Hamburg 19 Voltaire Bistro 2 ATTRACTIONS R2 Alster Lake 29 Erotic Art Museum 4 Hafen (Harbor) 5 Hamburger Kunsthalle 24 Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte Strese9 mann strass Rathaus 16 e Reeperbahn 8 4 St. Jacobikirche 21 e ss St. PAULI Reepe rbahn 8 Ludw Ho sse 9 lst Schom en of e p Gri nde lalle Eim sbü tte l er Ch burgstra Palmaille Fischmarkt aar tor G r o s s e Elbes t r ass e Elbe Baumwall Alst Sch erfl König Frie eet strass e se ras hst dric Herbert- tr ocht-S hard-N strasse Bern St.-PauliLandungsbrücken 5 asse Schaarsteinweg Blei 6 tin ar rM the se Lu tras S chen 7 trasse fleet Stras s e au s see Bud ape Ka ise ster stra - ra sse ss e ig-Erh ard-S .

Petri Kirche 19 sse asse gstr sse ldin a Spa nalstr a rdk No Ham me rbr ALTSTADT Do ms 17 e Dov nfle Ob er brü baum cke - Ost-West-Strasse Katharinenstrasse et Am sin B Ba an nks cks tra 18 Kajen stra a sse 0 0 s ss se e 0. Matt Holzb nde Sa ra ss e St.-HeussPlatz GustavMahler-Park eruf Se ch sli ng K Ko op pp e ls Wall 14 Ken ne dyb rücke L Lo om mb ba arrd ds sb brrü üc ck ke e An de 27 tra asss se rA l r ste 28 sp fo rte e BORGFELDE lal e W rass st 26 25 24 Hachmannplatz ST. GEORG Hansaplatz S in te da m m 15 CAB asse Str Ba lin da m m Binnenalster Hauptbahnhof öncke 22 M 23 21 22 se as t Steinstr Speersor i Adena K i Ble che nfl eet 20 sse bergstra e ueralle ee r-All ache m u h c S t r u tra M 16 Börse st er g ö n c ke b r. Bremen.25 mi Bro or okt kai Information i 0.Chapter 13: Hamburg. and Lübeck 177 Fer Hochallee strasse nsic ht Gell Hans-H en n erts se tras -W ahn y-J eg BARMBEK Weide strasse Hallerstras Rothenbaumchaussee se Mitte Alsterpark PÖSSELDORF Milchst rasse UHLENHORST se 5 da eA uss i m ch t ds bu m er ROTHERBAUM Aussenalster lweg en wi k HOHENFELDE Müh Mitte hw an M un rg 29 er Sc Alst Th.25 km Ha St mbu ra r ss ge e r Le rc he nf eld Bellevue Be lle Sie vu rich e Herderstrasse stra sse Be et ho n ve str as se He rbe rt-W eic hm ann -St W in te rh ud er W eg Harvest ras Sc h lweg ön huder Weg lend amm er ck e be ss Lü stra Ju ng fe rn sti eg Po sts tra en sse 75 Nag elsw eg ook stra sse N .

which stops in front of terminals 1 and 4. an array of easily identified banks with currency-exchange windows.m.m. An S-Bahn line connects the two stations. Hamburg has train connections with all major German and European cities.) to the city’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station). bustling.–9:20 p. . the trip time is 21⁄2 hours. Intriguing Hamburg is worth a day or two of your time. The easiest way to get into the city is by the Airport Express bus. The bus runs every 15 to 20 minutes (5 a.20€ ($6. plane.50) for adults and 2. you’re as much aware of water as land — Hamburg has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined. Most trains arrive at the centrally located Hamburg Hauptbahnhof. From Berlin. call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) at % 11861. By train Hamburg has two major rail stations. a street where sex is sold overthe-counter. Taxi stands are in front of all the terminals. and other independent currency-exchange services and ATMs. Because of the Elbe and two enormous inner-city lakes.airport. The one-way fare is 5.–11 p.10) for children younger than 12. By plane Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of the city center is Hamburg Airport. For train information. The terminal contains a tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300) in the arrivals area of terminals 1 and 2 (open daily 5:30 a. Germans often call it their “gateway to the world. this city makes a good headquarters. Most major European cities have direct flights to Hamburg. depending on traffic. the journey takes about 25 minutes.ham. which explains why you find historic buildings standing side by side with steel-and-glass structures.178 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany incarnate. A taxi from the airport to the city costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 30 minutes. not under. and car.m. Hamburg has a huge. Paul-Baumer-Platz 1–3 (% 040/ land of the lurid Reeperbahn.50€ ($3. Hachmannplatz 10 (% 040/39183046).” Getting there Hamburg is the largest city in northern Germany and is easy to reach by train. With its giant port and strongly international flair. If you want to explore northern Germany. www. Much of the city was destroyed during World War II (WWII). and then make a second stop at Hamburg-Altona (% 040/39182387) in the western part of the city.m. horn-blaring port and sedate late-19th-century neighborhoods.).

m. Flanking the Binnenalster on the south is the Jungfernstieg. hamburg. is a tree-filled residential district with many fine 19th-century villas and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings. Two canals. Pauli Reeperbahn district. www. The 90-minute Top Tour ( departs every 30 minutes from 9:30 a. you find tourist information (% 040/3005-1300) at the St.m. lichter-tour.m.. This office is open April through October daily from 8 a. and can book a hotel room for you for a 4€ ($5) fee. including a drink. to 5 p. Cost is 18€ ($22) for adults.m.m. the Lombardsbrücke and the Kennedybrücke. Taking a bus tour A guided bus tour is the best way to get a feel for Hamburg and its various neighborhoods and special areas.-Pauli-Landungsbrüucken.m. November through March 10 a. to 6 p. the A7 from the north and south.-PauliLandungsbrücken between piers 4 and 5.m.m.50) for children. to 9 p. The three-hour “Lights of Hamburg” tour (www. Orienting yourself The Hauptbahnhof is located on the eastern fringe of central is 30€ ($37). divide the Alster into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster). Hamburg’s most vital artery and shopping district. Daily tours on double-decker buses operated by Hamburger Stadtrundfahrten (% 040/641-3731) leave from the main train station. the city’s commercial and shopping double-decker buses depart Saturday and Sunday from April through October at 2 p. (hourly in winter).de) in the main train station near the main entrance. 7€ ($9) for children up to 14. Another good online source of information is Central Hamburg surrounds the Alster. Pösseldorf. In the harbor area.Chapter 13: Hamburg. the A23 from the northwest. Cost. a lake rimmed by Hamburg’s most significant buildings. northwest of Aussenalster. Tickets for all tours are available on the bus and all tours have live commentary in English. Hamburg Stadt Rundfahrt (% 040/792-8979) offers the Elbe Tour. The office is open daily from 8 a. from the St.m. run south from Binnenalster. which lasts 2 hours and 30 minutes and includes towns along the Elbe River. Kirchenallee entrance.m. Two bridges. Cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. Alsterfleet and Bleichenfleet. from May through October and includes a visit to the St. and Lübeck 179 By car The A1 Autobahn reaches Hamburg from the south and starts at 8 p. Finding information Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg operates the tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300. Bremen. and the A24 from the east. 6€ ($7. channeling water from the . to 6 p. A word to the wise: Park your car and use public transportation in this busy city.

80€ ($9. Taxi meters begin at 2€ ($2. bisects St. and harbor ferries. you have to depend on public transportation or taxis. is the scene of Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market). formerly a city in its own right. The Reeperbahn. A one-day card costs 7.” earlier in this chapter). The U-Bahn is the fastest means of getting around. bars. A three-day card costs 17€ ($22) for one adult and up to three children. A-Bahn (commuter rail). Pauli.180 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Alster to the Elbe.50) and rise 1. Pauli district. Many of Hamburg’s finest hotels and restaurants cluster around the Binnenalster and the Rathaus (City Hall). now integrated into Greater Hamburg. Buy your ticket from the bus driver or from automatic vending machines at U-Bahn stations and bus stops. S-Bahn (light rail).90) per kilometer. admission to 11 Hamburg museums. com) operates the U-Bahn (subway). buses. To see everything of interest. south of Central Hamburg and the Alster.hvv. The St. guided tours of the port. A single one-way fare for both U-Bahn and bus costs 2. www. depends on how far you travel.55€ ($1. sex shows. The U-Bahn (subway) and buses Hamburg’s U-Bahn serves the entire central area and connects with the S-Bahn light-rail trains in the suburbs. The fare. which is the same for both U-Bahn and bus. Hamburger Verkehrsverbund (HVV.80€ ($7. call % 040/441-011 or 040/666-666. is located northwest of the river.25) for an adult and includes fare for up to three children traveling with an adult. a short distance to the south. and discounts on city tours. and music halls. You can buy the card at the tourist information offices (see “Finding information. The western district of Altona. but buses offer a good alternative and enable you to see more of the city. % 040/19449. and lake cruises. discos. . a famous neon-lit boulevard with cafes. the world’s seventh-largest harbor. A tageskarte (day ticket) for unlimited use of public transportation costs 5. Getting around Hamburg Hamburg is not a compact city and can’t be easily covered on foot. The HamburgCard is good for travel on all public transport. The Altona neighborhood is a great place to explore or have dinner. The Port (Hafen) of Hamburg.75) for one adult and up to three children under 15. which takes place at dawn every Sunday. stretches for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River. Taxis For a taxi. the old sailor’s quarter that became the center of Hamburg nightlife.50€ ($3) within Greater Hamburg.

Langenfelde Osterstr. Saarlandstr. Alsterdorf Lattenkamp U2 Alte Wöhr Habichtstr. Messberg 181 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn S3 Neuwiedenthal . Rauhes Haus Markenstr. Pauli Landungsbrücken Messehallen Gän. Wartenau Lohmühlenstr. Christuskirche Lutterothstr. Bremen. Baumwall Dammtor Step. Jungfernstieg Rödingsmarkt Rathaus Neugraben Heimfeld Harburg Rathaus Harburg Bremen Hanover Hammerbrook Hauptbahnhof Steinstr. Sta. Legienstr. Wandsbek Markt brucke Hallerstr. Trabrennbahn Rübenkamp Farmsen Rahlstedt Fuhlsbüttel Klein Borstel Meinendorfer Weg Wellingsbüttel S1 Poppenbüttel Buchenkamp Volksdorf Ahrensburg West Ahrensburg Ahrensburg Ost.Neumünster Ulzberg Süd Ulzburg Süd A2 Richtweg U1 Ohlstedt Lübeck Garstedt Ochsenzoll Hoisbüttel Buckhorn Langenhorn Nord Langenhorn Markt U2 Fuhlsbüttel Nord Hohenneichen Kornweg Berne Ohlsdorf Sengelmannstr. Halstenbek Krupunder S21 Hagensbeck Tierpark Niendorf Markt Eidelstedt Ost Hagendeel Elbgaustraße A1 Eidelstedt Stellingen Wedel Rissen Iserbrook Emilienstr. Bilstedt Steinfurther Allee Rothenburgsort Mümmelmannsberg U3 Tiefstack Veddel Bilwerder-Moorfleet Wilhelmsberg Lübecker Str. Großhansdorf Schmalenbeck Kiekut Kiwittsmoor U1 Norderstedt Mitte A1 Hasioh Bönningstedt Elmshorn Niendorf Nord Schippelsweg Burgwedel S3 Pinneberg Schnelsen Thesdorf Joachim-Mähl-Str. Sülldorf Hochkamp Diebsteich Othmarschen S1 Blankenese Klein Flottbek Bahrenfeld S-Bahn U-Bahn Hudtwaickerstr. and Lübeck Bergedorf Buxtehude Stade Holstenstr. Sierichstr. Mön. Mundsburg Wandsbeker Chaussee Schlump Wandsbek Uhlandstr. Berliner Tor Mittierer Landweg Allermöhe Netteinburg Wohltorf Reinbek Aumühle S21 Schwerin Berlin Single track section AKN Line DB Line Chapter 13: Hamburg. Hasselbrook Ritterstr. Landwehr Hammerkirche Horner Rennbahn Bergstr. Barmbek Wandsbeck Ost Alter Teichweg Eppendorfer Baum Borgweg U3 Friedrichsberg HoheDehnhaide Straßburger Straße Klosterstern luttHamburger Str. Reeperbahn St. Altona Sternschanze Feidstraße Königstr. Wandsbek-Gartenstedt Kellinghusenstr.

the Schmilinsky. You also find hotel-booking desks at the airport. stylish hotel in a late-19th-century building sits on a quiet residential street near the Aussenalster lake. Rates include buffet breakfast. originally built in the mid 19th century as a home for sailors. The bathrooms are small with shower-tub combinations. DC. DC. Rates include breakfast. offers rooms with panoramic views of the river and harbor. The rooms vary . shops. Hotel Hafen Hamburg $ –$$$ St. If you arrive without a room. wine bars. The hotel can arrange baby-sitting. especially in the center of the city. the hotel features an array of business-oriented in-room amenities. You will usually find special weekend rates and promotional offers on the hotel Web site.aussen-alster. Aussen Alster $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This small. Hamburg Marriott $$$$ Central Hamburg This large.” earlier in this chapter). and restaurants. www. V. Fax: 040/3505-1777. MC. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk south on ABC Strasse). plus an intimate. Schmilinskystrasse 11. The hotel has a fitness center with pool and sauna and can arrange baby-sitting. traditionally styled hotel is near the Hanse Viertel. MC. The well-done bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Pauli/Harbor area This Hamburg landmark. See map p. % 040/241-557. Rates: 199€–279€ ($248–$349) double. Fax: 040/ Hamburg’s tourist information office in the main train station can help you find accommodations (see “Finding information. You find an onsite sauna and solarium. 176. or 040/ 35050.182 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Staying in Hamburg Hamburg is an expensive city with plenty of first-class hotels and a limited number of budget accommodations. The 27 midsize rooms are minimalist in terms of décor but very comfortable and meticulously maintained. 20099 Hamburg. The 227 rooms are priced according to size and degree of luxury. which becomes Schmilinskystrasse). www. AE. 176. and today consists of three adjacent buildings with a total of 255 20354 Hamburg. V. a fashionable area filled with boutiques. ABC Strasse 52. well-regarded restaurant. Rates: 129€–155€ ($161–$194) double. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk east on Steindamm and west on Stiftstrasse. The building was restored and converted into a hotel in 1979. See map p. See Chapter 22 for details on the Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ($$$$). Geared toward business travelers. % 800/228-9290 in the U.

176. MC. Bremen. MC. the largest pool in Hamburg. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). Amenities include a health club with pool. and Lübeck 183 in size. Built around a central atrium. See map A stark white and steel high-tech minimalism is offset by dramatic. the Hafen’s modern sister hotel. This full-service hotel has virtually every amenity you can imagine. all have wellequipped bathrooms with a shower-tub combination. DC. DC. Rates: 209€–310€ ($261–$387) double. the Hyatt occupies a former trading house from 1912 that was transformed into a hotel in 1998. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Dammtorstrasse and west on Drehbahn). www. Some rooms have private bathrooms with showers. The luxurious bathrooms have a tub-shower combination. Fax: 40/3099-9399. Rates: 100€–200€ ($125–$250) double. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. 176. See map p. Pension Helga Schmidt $ Central Hamburg This small. Hotel Side $$$$ Central Hamburg Opened in the spring of 2001. V. See map p. V. U-/S-Bahn: St. but most are large with updated modern furnishings. Fax: 40/ 3332-1235. AE. DC. A terrace on the eighth floor opens onto panoramic views of Hamburg. Seewartenstrasse 9. the 178 good-sized rooms are quiet and comfortable. Drehbahn 49. You may find a bit of attitude. glowing colors and contemporary furniture placed as carefully as sculptures. and a fine-dining restaurant called Apples (see “Dining in Hamburg. but staying here is definitely a memorable experience. Rates: 190€–265€ ($237–$295). AE.Chapter 13: Hamburg.hotel-hamburg. Park Hyatt Hamburg $$$$ Central Hamburg One of the most beautifully designed hotels in Hamburg. Lots of wood and warm-toned fabrics adorn the 252 spacious rooms. % 040/311-130.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (then a 7minute walk north through the small park outside the station to Seewartenstrasse). was built in 20354 AE. Breakfast: 18€ ($22). 20459 Hamburg. % 040/3332-1234. www. 176. 20095 Hamburg. But the double rooms are of a decent size and have an old-fashioned comfort of their own. Hotel Side takes high design to new heights. others have showers . % 40/309-990.” later in this chapter). The third and fourth floors are nonsmoking. V. traditional. The neighboring ship-shaped Hotel Residenz. The large bathrooms have a separate area for Japanese-style soaking tubs. Fax: 040/31113755. MC.side-hamburg. Breakfast: 13€ ($16). Breakfast: 22€ ($27). You won’t find anything fancy here. 17-room pension sits right across the street from the superdeluxe Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg (Chapter 22) and costs a fraction of the price.

AE. 68€ ($85) double with The smallish bathrooms have a shower-tub combination.m. 20099 Hamburg. As a main course. Rates include buffet breakfast. fixedprice menu 50€ ($62).m. Appetizers may include ostrich carpaccio or red curry soup. In the morning. The menu. salmon. MC.184 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany only and you share a bathroom.t-online. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north along Koppel Strasse to Gurlittstrasse). V. Fax: 040/280-3894. protein-packed dish that sailors and dockworkers order. Wedina $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This recently remodeled hotel is in three different buildings painted three different colors (red. www. 176. Traditional meat dishes include Stubenküchen (hamburger steak) and Labskaus — made with beer. shrimp. which changes according to seasonal availability. % 040/280-8900. % 040/280-83-90.wedina. DC. blue. herring. Rates: 58€ ($72) double without bathroom. They range in size from small to medium and are individually decorated with modern furnishings. In the Park Hyatt Hamburg. corned beef. potatoes. AE. Reservations required. The place is hip without being pretentious. 176. you usually find lobster. fresh oysters. plaice. onions. Rates: 108€–165€ ($135–$206) double. . The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. you can enjoy breakfast in the privacy of your room. and pickle — which is a hearty. Tuscan-style garden. Fax: 040/243-705. See map p. features fresh. saddle of pork. DC. V. organically grown produce. and yellow). AE. or oven-roasted duck. Apples Restaurant $$$ –$$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL Centered around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven. and eel (Aalsuppe. See map p.–2:30 p. a local dessert specialty. sole. Most of the 42 rooms open onto a small. MC. you have to climb 55 steps. See map p. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north on Holzdamm). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). Come here for an elegant evening out. Main courses: 23€–31€ ($29–$39). char-grilled turbot and peppers. Fresh specials of the day also are available. Dining in Hamburg It shouldn’t come as any surprise that most of Hamburg’s traditional cuisine comes from the sea. and to reach rooms on the third floor. is a compote of red fruits served with vanilla ice cream or cream.m. Holzdamm 14. Gurlittstrasse 23. V. and 6–11 p. 20099 Hamburg. Pancakes (Pfannkuchen) with cranberries or other fruit toppings are popular. is a famous Hamburg dish). www. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. On the menus of the city’s many fish restaurants. Rote Grütze. Open: Daily 6:30 a. or eel soup. turbot. Apples is the showcase restaurant of the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Rate includes breakfast. 176. you may find grilled lobster. % 040/33321234.

a light lunch. cold cuts.25–$9. you can see the Nikolaifleet canal from the windows. Popular offerings include breast of duck with caramelized cherries. housed in a former tram station. and 6 p. sausages. Cremon 33–34. Main courses: 5€–7. includes specialties from Thailand. and croissants. Japan (including sushi and sashimi). Open: Daily noon to 3 p. Friedensallee 9. and saltimbocca. .50€–9€ ($4. % 040/362-190. See map p. 176. meat. Bremen. % 040/3904-606.m.50) per dish. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Mönckebergstrasse).–10 p.m. Typical offerings include goulash with noodles. you can order eggs. fixed-price dinner 26€ ($32). Luncheon offerings usually include chicken and fish dishes plus daily specials and several different salads. and the service is no-nonsense. For breakfast. Main courses: 8€–26€ ($10–$32). S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and northwest on Bahrenstrasse. The restaurant serves four or five hot dishes of fish and meat buffet-style at lunchtime. From the below-street-level location.Chapter 13: Hamburg. southern France. and the Cremonteller. See map p. You can eat on the balcony overlooking the shops or in the wood-paneled dining room. a platter with crab. V. % 040/3039-3735. with a minimum of fuss. 176. salmon. traditional versions of North German cuisine.m. Breakfast: 3.40–$11). U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 10-minute walk east on Kajen and north on Cremons). jacket potatoes with sour cream and crab or other fillings. The food is robust. a cold buffet is available in the evening.m. cheese. 176. Eisenstein $$ –$$$ Altona INTERNATIONAL The menu in this hip Altona restaurant. and bread and butter. Die Rösterei $ Central Hamburg LIGHT MEALS/BREAKFAST/DESSERTS Located in the shopping arcade attached to the Park Hyatt hotel.m. Fischküche Karin Brahm $$ –$$$ Harbor area SEAFOOD This pleasant fish restaurant in a modern building has a bright dining room and outdoor tables. See map p. No credit cards. Sun 10 a.m. MC. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. to midnight. which becomes Friedensallee). particularly fresh Atlantic fish. this casual cafe is a good place to stop for breakfast. and Lübeck Cremon Weinkeller $ Harbor area NORTH GERMAN 185 If you want to eat lunch with the locals. so you can get a cappuccino with your afternoon Kuchen (cake). Reservations recommended. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. The cafe roasts its own coffee beans.–9 p.–9 p.m. and Italy. homemade pastas. this barrestaurant is a good place to try. fixedprice lunch 14€ ($17).. and fresh.50€ ($6. Main courses: 9€–12€ ($11–15).m. No credit cards. Mönckebergstrasse 7. or afternoon coffee.

V.–2 a. % 040/326-519. Italian and modern German. Sat 6 p. the fresh sole. Don’t bother with appetizers. or codfish with potatoes and onion. you may try the avocado salad with herring or some crostini. Main courses typically include pasta offerings such as tagliatelle with ragout. See map p. Main courses: 11€–15€ ($14–$18). UBahn: Jungfernstieg (then a 5-minute walk north along Neuer Wall to Schleuseenbrücke). Melange $ –$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL With tables tucked along the canal under the fancy shopping arcade that lines the Alsterfleet canal (across from the Rathaus). you can choose from other dishes such as chicken breast in a green rice crust or turkey curry. Grosse Johannisstrasse 2.m. (Indoor dining is available yearround. Try the halibut steak in curry sauce.–6 p.m. an international mix of French. zander filet with creamy sauerkraut.m. MC. depending on the catch of the day. a mixed fish platter. and large stained-glass windows. Sun 5:30 p. U-Bahn: Rathaus (then a 3-minute walk south on Grosse Johannisstrasse). AE. If you don’t like fish. AE. but on a nice day nab a table outside). I like it because you can order something as simple as a salad but they also have good daily specials. DC. See map p. Neuer Wall 31 (in the Neuen Alsterarkaden). Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). % 040/365-631. Ratsweinkeller Hamburg $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg HAMBURG/INTERNATIONAL In business since 1896. Reservations recommended. Open: Mon–Fri noon to midnight. and breast of chicken with basil and mushrooms. the main courses are more than enough. to midnight. 176. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. AE. Or. MC. Most of the young wait staff speak English. herring filets on black bread with onions. step up to the herring buffet featuring many different condiments and sauces. Kajen 12. V. wood-paneled columns. See map p. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 3-minute walk west to Kajen). too.) The menu. % 040/3750-3434. 176. changes daily. Main courses: 17€–25€ ($21–$31). the Ratsweinkeller Hamburg has high. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 70. For starters. 176.186 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The menu changes all the time. vaulted ceilings. . V. this cafe/bistro/bar is a chic but casual spot to stop for lunch or an early dinner (you can eat inside. And the outside tables are great for people-watching. See map p..m. flounder with spaghetti and lemon-butter sauce.m. Le Paquebot $$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL In warm weather. 176. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk across Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz). you can sit outside on the square and enjoy a good meal at this quietly stylish restaurant and bar. or the Hamburg crab soup. Reservations recommended. MC. Choices may include different kinds of clear or creamy fish soup.–2 a. Open: Daily 8 a. % 040/364-153.m.m.

m. when the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa issued an edict granting free-trading privileges to Hamburg. You also find many different salad choices.m. Italian.. Meat and fish dishes typically include entrecôte (boned rib steak) with mustard sauce.m. AE. one of the largest in the world. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. a larger body of water ringed by fine villas. Hafen (Harbor) Hamburg is probably most famous for its busy harbor. The menu borrows from French. which becomes Friedensallee).m. a smaller. flower gardens. and the Aussenalster. Closed holidays. Its official history dates back to 1189. Alsterpark. and panoramic views of the Hamburg skyline. and Lübeck 187 Main courses: 11€–31€ ($14–$39). and herring. inner lake with canals running south to the Elbe.m. Damming the meandering Alster River created the lake in 1235. and canoes ply the waters of this lake that forms the watery heart of central Hamburg. 176.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Hamburg is not a city with many world-class cultural attractions. scampi. wild duck with plum sauce. with coq au vin and spaghetti with mushroom sauce available every day. reasonably priced restaurant is across from Eisenstein (see the listing earlier in this section) in the popular Altona area. and hundreds of booths. Voltaire Bistro $$ Altona INTERNATIONAL This pleasant. See map p. Open: Daily 6 p. and German cuisine. See map p. windsurfers. Bremen. excursion ferries. Alster Lake Sailboats. features beautiful trees. . No credit cards. U-Bahn: Hallerstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Hallerstrasse to the park). Exploring Hamburg Surprisingly enough. fixed-price menus 30€–45€ ($37–$56). Walking paths and parkland surround the 7km (4 miles) of shoreline. Friedensalle 14–16. The Alster consists of the Binnenalster. V. MC. % 040/397-004. Sun 11 a. rabbit with sweet-and-sour sauce. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and north on Bahrenstrasse. 176. Main courses: 9€–14€ ($11–$17). Voltaire also has a good wine list and live jazz on most evenings. which covers 175 acres on the northwest banks.m. The city still commemorates the event every year in early May with three days of huge harborside celebrations. DC. fireworks.–1 a. including a windjammer parade. The dining room is a high-ceilinged brick-walled room with big windows and a bistrolike atmosphere. Sightseeing usually centers on the giant harbor and picturesque Alster Lake.–4 p.–10:30 p.

including works by Philipp Otto Runge and Caspar David Friedrich. In the Alte Meister (Old Masters) galleries.m. 2.50€ ($ 3. Am Anleger Jungfernstieg (% 040/357-4240. in which the North Sea tides influence the water level of the Elbe River. floating landing stage where you can embark on boat tours of the harbor. Rubens.m. there is a giant network of quays. The same company offers boat tours of Hamburg’s canals and along the Elbe. from November through leave from St. to 5:30 p. de). Tours depart from April through October daily every hour from 10 a.m. Emil Nolde. The Galerie der Gegenwart (Contemporary At Gallery) displays art created since 1960. offers daily 50-minute trips that depart about every half-hour.m. The ships leave from the Jungfernstieg quayside (U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg).. Ernst Kirchner. Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum) Northern Germany’s leading art museum displays works in four different areas. to 6 p. A brochure and cassettes with a description of the tour in English are available at no additional cost. Saturday and Sunday only from 10:30 a. This former East Indies windjammer is open daily from 10 a.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken. April through October. and drydocks. Just southeast of Hamburg.10) for children ages 4 to 12.75) for adults. Docked just east of the landing stage at Pier 1 is the Rickmer Rickmers (% 040/319-5959). a 19th-century clipper ship. to 4 p. Allow yourself at least two hours to see everything on view.m. warehouses.and early-20th-century artists Edvard Munch. to 6 p. Dazzling works by late-19th.m. Piers 1 through 9.. 176.50) for children. www.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken.188 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Seeing the Alster by boat You can tour both inner (Binnen) and outer (Ausser) Alster by boat. now a museum of maritime history.abicht.m. The harbor is an open tidal port. tours depart daily at 10:30 a. from 10 a.m. www. The 19th Century galleries display an outstanding collection of German Romantic paintings. Tourist activity centers around the St. Max Beckmann..m.alstertouristik. U-Bahn: St. The cost for the tour is 10€ ($13) for adults and 5€ ($6. . Admission is 3€ ($ 3. and Canaletto. See map p. where the Elbe splits into two arms. noon. and 1:30 and 3 p. The 75-minute trip costs 10€ ($13) for adults.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (the harbor is right across the street). a long. and Paul Klee are found in the Klassische Moderne (Modern Art) rooms. Claude Lorrain. from November through March. The best way to see the port and all its activity is by taking a guided harbor tour. ATG-AlsterTouristik.m. Excursion boats operated by Rainer Abicht (% 040/3178220. you find works by Meister Bertram. 6€ ($7.25) for children younger than 16.

).m. The Alsterarkaden.m. 176.m.Chapter 13: Hamburg. across the canal. Tours (in English): Mon–Thurs hourly 10:15 a.50) adults.m. Tours of the Rathaus and the Börse last about 30 to 45 minutes. Rathausplatz.–3:15 p.) clock tower overlooks Rathausmarkt and the Alsterfleet. See map p.m. Adolphsplatz 1 (% 040/3613020).m. is the largest of the old buildings in the Altstadt. Tracing your German ancestry The Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (see the listing above) is especially worth a visit if you have German ancestors and want to do genealogical research. and Lübeck 189 See map p.50 (65¢) children. 176 Holstenwall 24. Pauli (then a 2-minute walk east across Millentordamm).m. jewelry stores.m. You can visit the interior of this Renaissance-style structure with its 647 rooms on a guided tour.m.–6 p.50€ ($9. To use the service. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (exit at Hauptbahnhof Nord. On record are hundreds of thousands of emigrants’ names including the names of the cities and towns in which they originated.–6 p. 5€ ($6. Guides conduct free tours of the Börse on Tuesday and Thursday at 11 a. www.–5 p.. and reconstructed period rooms — from the hall of a 17th-century merchant’s house to an air-raid shelter from WWII — illustrate the different eras in Hamburg’s history. Admission: 8. Give yourself about an hour to browse through the exhibits. Open: Tues–Sat 10 a. Scale models show the changing face of the port. The museum’s office of historical emigration contains passenger lists of all the people who shipped out of Hamburg from the 1850s to about 1930. Fri–Sun hourly 10:15 a.50€ ($11) and boutiques.25) children. U-Bahn: Rathaus. Admission: Rathaus tour 1€ ($1.m. 176. is an arched passageway with upscale clothing shops.m. % 040/4281-32-2380. Rathaus (Town Hall) Hamburg’s Rathaus. % 040/428-131-200. The Rathaus’s 49m-tall (160-ft. You can combine a visit to the Rathaus with a stop at the 16th-century Börse (Stock Exchange). 0. Glockengiesserwall 1. then a 2minute walk north on An der Kunsthalle). www. Sun 10 Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.25) adults. which stands back to back with the Rathaus.–1:15 p. .. U-Bahn: St. % 040/4283-12063. you need to bring records with you that indicate the approximate date that your ancestors left Germany. Admission: 7. the city’s largest canal. Bremen. (Thurs until 9 p. free for children under 18.m. Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (Hamburg History Museum) This museum provides a portrait of Hamburg from the 8th through 20th centuries. and noon. See map p.hamburgmuseum. built in the late 19th century on a foundation of oak pilings.

tower 2. Open: Daily 9 a.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken).–5 p.60) children. pictures. entrance on Steinstrasse. Admission: Free. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke (then a 10-minute walk west on Michaelisstrasse). Take the elevator or climb the 449 steps to enjoy the sweeping view from the top. Michaelis (St. Krayenkamp 4C. Hamburg’s last remaining 17th-century brick-and-timber almshouses.m. like so many other buildings in Hamburg. elephant and camel rides.50€ ($11) children ages 4 to 16.m. Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Founded in 1848. .. completed in 1762. and pets at this traditional market. (until 4:30 p. % 040/327-744. is one of the finest baroque churches in northern Germany. This zoo in the northwest suburbs offers sea-lion and dolphin shows.50€ ($3.m. St.hagenbeck. James’s is one of only two surviving Schnitger organs in Germany. The famous Hamburg Fischmarkt The Hamburg Fischmarkt (fish market). in summer or from 7 a. which have been made into art galleries. The rebuilt church contains several medieval altars. with its hammered-copper roof. fruit. Michael’s.m. Jacobikirche (St. See map p. Give yourself about 15 minutes to visit the church and tower. 1.. The crypt. a train ride through a fairyland.m. Jakobikirchhof 22. See map p. is a famous Hamburg landmark and the principal reason to visit. and a spacious children’s playground. Sun 10 a.–6 p.190 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany St.25€ ($1.–5 p. Michael’s Church) Constructed of brick. Admission: 15€ ($18) adults. A restaurant serves fixed-price meals for 9. Besides fish. takes place every Sunday from 5 a. between Hexenberg and Grosse Elbstrasse (U-Bahn: St. The 60-register organ at St. and sculptures. de. in winter). 176. www. Jacobikirche. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Jakobikirchhof). % 040/540-0010. vegetables.10) adults.m. you can buy flowers. The tower.m. one of the largest in Europe. a baroque organ built in 1693 by Arp Schnitger. contains the tomb of composer Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach.–5 p. children younger than 3 free. to noon. in existence since 1703. 176. One block to the south of the church are the Krameramtswohnungen.m. the rest of the year.m. 8. Open: Daily Apr–Sept 9 a.m.m. to closing. a master craftsman whose instruments were played by Johann Sebastian Bach. 176. See map p. James’s Church) WWII bombings almost completely destroyed the 13th-century Gothic St. Hamburg’s zoo is home to about 2. Oct–Mar 10 a. plants. Michaeliskirchplatz. St. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a.m. % 040/3767-8100.m.50€ to 14€ ($ 12–$ 17) from 11:30 a. The nearby taverns are open to serve Fischmarkt visitors and vendors. in addition to one of Hamburg’s musical treasures. U-Bahn: Hagenbeck’s Tierpark. Hagenbeckallee at Steilingen.500 animals. Admission: Church free.

is known for its rare plant specimens and greenhouses filled with tropical flora.hamburgische-staatsoper. and an ice-skating rink in winter. or any kind of local specialty or handicraft. carries more-fashionable merchandise. but don’t expect to find many bargains. Karstadt. the first Sat of the month). two major shopping streets fan out in a southwesterly direction toward the Rathaus: the pedestrian-only Spitalerstrasse and Mönckebergstrasse. Dammtorstrasse 28 (% 040/35-68-68. You can buy tickets at venue box offices. available at tourist offices. miniature trees.m. S-Bahn: Dammtor). laid out in 1936. Landesbank-Galerie (% 040/337-124. to 2 p.m. and Lübeck Wallringpark 191 Four beautifully maintained parks and gardens comprise this greenbelt area west of the Altstadt and Alster Lake. See map p. The Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden). or through the service Theaterkasse Central. www. contains the largest Japanese garden in Europe. and winding pathways. on Thursday) and on Saturday from 9 a. including a rollerskating rink. Alsterhaus. hotels. Mönckebergstrasse 3 (% 040/333-070).m.m. connected transversely by Jungfernstieg and Ufer Strasse on the Binnenalster. Stores are generally open Monday through Friday from 9 a. From the Hauptbahnhof.m. is part of a departmentstore chain that carries many of the same brands and items as the other leading department stores. Jungfernstieg 22 (% 040/359-011). Shopping in Hamburg Hamburg is a big shopping city. one of the world’s leading opera houses. is the home of the . to 6:30 p. which offers better deals on merchandise markdowns. U-Bahn: Dammtor (the station is at the southeastern corner of the park). Planten und Blomen (Plants and Flowers). flowering plants. Admission: Free. The Kleine (small) and Grosse (large) Wallanlagen parks contain many recreational facilities. at tourist offices. The performing arts Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). on langer Samstag. (until 4 or 6 p. Living it up after dark in Hamburg To find out what’s happening in Hamburg. Grosse Bleichen and Neuer Wall. Less expensive is Kaufhof. run parallel to the canals. playgrounds. with rock gardens. (some until 8 p. 176.Chapter 13: and newsstands.m. south of Planten and Blomen. These streets contain some of the city’s less expensive stores. restaurants. pick up a copy of the monthly Hamburger Vorschau. Bremen. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse). A miniature railway connects all four parks. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 48. Mönckebergstrasse 16 (% 040/30940). Two of the city’s oldest and most prestigious shopping streets.

S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke). Cover charge is 4€ to 15€ ($5–$19). plays host to concerts by the Hamburg Symphony.englishtheatre.m. nightclubs. www. The following list gives a small sampling of bars. Alter Steinweg 10 (% 040/343-878. chamber orchestras. the Hamburg Philharmonic. is one of the most popular places in the St. from September to April.S. The hall is open daily from 7 p. jazz.25–$182).m. U-Bahn: Mundsburg).de. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). The club is open from 11 p. ߜ Club Grosse Freiheit. The club is open year-round Monday through Saturday from 8 p. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). and the NDR Symphony. features jazz and Dixieland bands from throughout Europe and the U. U-Bahn: Messehallen).to 30-year-olds. ߜ Cotton Club. with meals ranging from 5€ to 15€ ($6. depending on the band. especially if you’re into funk. Friday.m. and live-music venues: ߜ After Shave. ߜ Bayrisch Zell. is where The Beatles performed in their earliest days. to 3 p.25–$31).192 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg State Opera and the Hamburg Ballet. Saturday. Cover is 2€ to 14€ ($2. but you need to understand German to enjoy the productions. is one of the hottest dance clubs in Hamburg. . and guest artists.m.m. Grosse Freiheit 36 (% 040/317-7711.50–$17). a dance club for 20. too. Thursday. If someone catches your fancy. ߜ Molotow.m. The ticket office is at Grosstheaterstrasse 34. Today this cultural institution is a free-for-all venue with acts that change nightly. free admission for women Friday and Saturday after midnight. Cover is 5€ to 9€ ($6. the oldest and best established of the Hamburg jazz clubs. The club. you can call him or her from the phone on your table. Spielbudenplatz 7 (% 040/319-3215.75–$31). and to 6 a.m. Cover is 5€ to 25€ ($6. beer halls. it’s also open Sunday from 11 a. Spielbudenplatz 5 (% 040/31-08-45. Reeperbahn 10 (% 040/314-281. in addition to performances by choirs.25–$19). The Musikhalle. Hamburg has dozens of theaters. The club opens at 9 p. Thursday to Sunday and has no set closing time. in St. to midnight. to 5 a. dance clubs. Pauli district. Lerchenfeld 14 (% 040/227-7089. Tickets range from 7€ to 25€ ($8. and fusion. and music scenes Hamburg is famous for its nightlife. bar. soul. Johannes-Brahms-Platz (% 040/35-68-68. Ticket prices range from 5€ to 146€ ($6. a giant beer hall. The food is okay. features funk. Wednesday and Sunday and at 11 p. to 4 a. Ticket prices vary from program to program.m. One exception is the English Theatre of Hamburg.m. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). to 3 a.m. attracting singles and couples young and old. Pauli.m.25–$11). the only English-speaking theater in the northern part of Germany.

or overt solicitation.m. which is close to Hamburg’s great harbor. distributed at most gay and lesbian bars. and cafes along Lange Reihe just northeast of the train station (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Please note that women are not welcome on Herbertstrasse. to midnight. Grosse Freiheit. The museum is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a. and restaurants (although I don’’t recommend dining in this area). Bremen. metal gates block each end of the street.” is known for its erotic theaters.m.m. www. and Lübeck 193 St. Many of the prostitutes who work there today are licensed and must submit to a medical examination every two weeks. By the mid-1800s. The free magazine Dorn Rosa. The district’s sexrelated bars and theaters are up and running by 8 p. with a dense concentration of gay shops. bars. had become a hangout for sailors and prostitutes. lists the city’s many gay and lesbian clubs. like Berlin.Chapter 13: Hamburg. the 90-minute walking tour takes you to various places around the harbor and tells the whore’s side of the story. just west of the center. restaurants. Herbertstrasse is open only to men older than 18. The place where it all hangs out is the St. which includes a glass of schnapps at tour’s end. and events. discos. Pauli and the Reeperbahn: For adults only Commercialized sex is a major tourist attraction in Hamburg. Gay and lesbian clubs Hamburg. cabarets. St.m. Open to those older than 16. bars. called Hafen und Huren (Harbors and Whores). bars. The name literally translates as “Rope Street” and refers to the nautical rope produced there during the 18th and 19th centuries. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). a street whose name appropriately translates as “Great Freedom. The area is not exclusively devoted to sex.. Pauli’s streets. along a half-mile thoroughfare called the Reeperbahn (pronounced ray-per-bahn. the museum presents its displays and changing exhibits in a way that’s both academic and titillating. at the corner of Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit. Municipal regulations forbid prostitution. . Led by a professional guide dressed as a 19th-century Hamburg prostitute (the costume is not what you’d call sexy). You must reserve in advance. St. The most famous street besides the Reeperbahn itself is Herbertstrasse. Pauli is a place to visit at night.m.. Nobistor 10A (% 040/3178-4126). and you do find all kinds of theaters (mostly for musicals and comedies). Pauli. cost is 20€ ($25) per person. Friday and Saturday from 10 a. to 2 a.hurentours. and may even be doused with a bucket of water if they enter. where bordellos line both sides of the street. is one of the major gay centers of Europe. Pauli district. and the women display themselves behind plate-glass windows. Between midnight and 5 a. thousands of “working girls” strut their stuff along the Reeperbahn and through St. who set up shop with the legal sanction of municipal authorities. inside erotic theaters. Historical Whores Tours (% 01805/125-225. admission is 8€ ($10). The district also contains the Erotic Art offers one of the world’s more unusual walking tours.

194 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
A Side Trip: Bremen
Bremen, 120km (75 miles) southwest of Hamburg, has a history that dates back some 1,200 years. (See the “Bremen” map in this chapter.) Located on the Weser River, which flows to the North Sea, it already was a significant port when it was made an Episcopal see in 787. During the Middle Ages, Bremen was one of the strongest members of the Hanseatic League, and in 1646, it became a Free Imperial City. Silting of the Weser led to the establishment of Bremerhaven, Bremen’s deepwater port at the mouth of the Weser, in 1827. With a population of about half a million people, Bremen is the second-most important foreign trade location in the Federal Republic, after Hamburg. Although it’s mostly an industrial city that was badly damaged in WWII, enough remains in old Bremen to make for an intriguing daytrip from Hamburg.

Getting to Bremen
By train, the trip time from Hamburg is less than an hour. For train information and schedules, call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). If you’re driving, Bremen is a major junction on the A1 Autobahn between Hamburg and the Rhineland. Bremen Flughafen (Airport; % 0421/55-950) has flights from major cities in Germany and Europe.

Finding information and taking a tour
Bremer-Touristik-Zentrale (% 01805/10-10-30; www.bremen-tourism. de) operates tourist information offices at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station; open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat–Sun 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.). A second branch at Obernstrasse/Liebfrauenkirchhof also is open Monday to Friday 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. If you decide to stay overnight in Bremen, this office will help you find a hotel or pension. Guided bus tours, conducted in German and English, depart Tuesday through Sunday year-round at 10:30 a.m. from the Central Coach Station (Rank M) just behind the tourist information office at the main train station. The tour lasts two hours and costs 15€ ($19) for adults and 9.50€ ($12) for children younger than 13. Guided walking tours, with Englishspeaking guides, depart daily at 2 p.m. from mid-May to early October, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. in January and February, from the tourist information office at the main train station. They last two hours, and cost 6.50€ ($8), free for children younger than 13. Buy your tickets at the tourist office.

Dining in Bremen
The Ratskeller below Bremen’s Rathaus, Am Markt (% 0421/32-16-76), is a wonderfully atmospheric place to try North German regional specialties such as Bremer Festtagsuppe (a beef consommé with meatballs, noodles, and vegetables), Bremer Fischtopf (diced salmon, haddock, and red snapper in a vegetable stock), herring with sour cream and roasted

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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potatoes, and Flammkuchen, a pizzalike dish with mushrooms, herbs, and cheese. This is also a good place to try a Probierportion (sample portion) of Labkaus, a delicious corned-beef hash mixed with pickled herring, topped with a fried egg, and served with dill pickles and beets. The adjoining restaurant, Vor dem Bacchus, serves fresh fish. Main courses go for 10€ to 22€ ($13–$27). The restaurants are open daily from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. See map above.




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196 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Exploring Bremen
Bremen’s main sights are in the Altstadt, clustered around Marktplatz (Market Square), the center of Bremen life for more than a millennium. Most of the compact oval Altstadt, with the Weser River along the south side and the Stadtgraben canal on the north, is a pedestrian zone and can easily be explored on foot. Recent restoration work has brightened up the center and its many historic buildings. From Bahnhofsplatz in front of the train station, head south to Herdentor and the bridge that crosses the Stadtgraben canal. To your right, in the Wallanlagen, the pretty parkland along the canal (formerly the city wall stood here), you’ll see a large Dutch-style windmill. At one time, more than a dozen windmills operated in this area. At the beginning of Sögestrasse (Sow Street), a bronze swineherd and a herd of bronze sows and piglets commemorates the street where medieval butchers kept their pigs. A short walk south brings you to the Marktplatz, where a 15th-century sandstone statue of Knight Roland, the city’s protector, stands guard beside the Rathaus. Bremen’s impressive three-story Rathaus (Town Hall; % 0421/36-10) has been standing on the Marktplatz for 600 years and was untouched by the bombing raids of WWII. The main Gothic structure was built in 1405, but in 1612 the upper section of the facade was redone in what is known as Weser Renaissance style. (Weser Renaissance, a term applied to architecture created in and around the Weser River valley between 1520 and 1620, is characterized by ornate decoration on classically proportioned buildings.) Inside, the upper hall with its beautifully carved early-17thcentury oak staircase and mural of The Judgment of Solomon (1537), was used as council chamber and courtroom. You can visit the Rathaus on 45minute guided tours Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m., noon, 3 and 4 p.m., and on Sunday at 11 a.m. and noon. Admission is 4€ ($5) adults, 2€ ($2.50) children and students. You can dine in the historic Ratskeller beneath the building (see “Dining in Bremen,” earlier in this section). Walk around to the west end of the Rathaus to see Bremen’s most famous characters, the Bremen Town Musicians from the Grimm’s fairy tale of the same name. Local artist Gerhard Marcks created the bronze sculpture of a donkey, dog, cat, and cock in 1951.

Chocolate lovers take note
Hachez, a famous Bremen chocolatier founded in 1890, occupies a charming 18thcentury patrician house near the Rathaus. The shop, Stoevesandt-Diele, Am Markt 1 (% 0421/50-90-00), is a chocolate-lover’s emporium where you can find sweet specialties such as chocolate champagne truffles.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


Bells are ringing on Böttcher Street
Böttcherstrasse, running from Marktplatz to the Weser River, is one of the most architecturally intriguing streets in Germany and one of Bremen’s most noteworthy attractions. Ludwig Roselius, a rich Bremen merchant who invented decaffeinated coffee, paid for the construction of the redbrick buildings that line the street, which was dedicated in 1926 and rebuilt after World War II. Part of the narrow brick-paved street was built in an avant-garde German expressionist style; the other part was meant to look more traditionally medieval. The street is lined with shops, crafts workshops, restaurants, two museums, and galleries. Time your visit to hear the carillon of bells made of Meissen porcelain. Every hour between noon and 6 p.m. (Jan–Apr at noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m.), they play a tune for a full 15 minutes as a sequence of woodcarved panels in a revolving tower tells the story of transatlantic aviators.

Directly opposite the Rathaus stands the Schütting, a 16th-century guild hall today used by the chamber of commerce (not open to the public). Adding a modern architectural touch to the ancient square is the Haus der Bürgerschaft, constructed in 1966 and home of Bremen’s Parliament. Free 20-minute tours of the building are given Monday to Friday at 2 p.m. At the southeast end of the Marktplatz, towering majestically over the entire Altstadt, is St. Petri-Dom (St. Peter’s Cathedral), Sandstrasse 10–12 (% 0421/36-50-40), originally constructed in 1043 as the archbishop’s church and rebuilt in the 16th and 19th centuries. Other than the 12thcentury bronze baptismal font in one of the Romanesque crypts there is not much of exceptional interest within the cathedral, which is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday 2 to 5 p.m. From Easter through October you can climb to the top of the cathedral towers for a panoramic view of the Altstadt. The Dom Museum (Cathedral Museum; % 0421/365-04-41) displays artifacts discovered during a restoration of the cathedral in the early 1970s, including vestments found in archbishops’ graves and 15th-century wall paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder. More interesting than the museum is the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), reached by going outside and around to the side of the cathedral. It contains a bizarre collection of mummified corpses — 16th- and 17th-century lords, ladies, students, and soldiers, plus a cat and a monkey — whose leathery bodies were found in graves beneath and around the cathedral. Admission for the cathedral museum and the Lead Cellar is 1.50€ ($2) for adults, 1€ ($1.25) for students and children; both are open the same hours as the cathedral, but the Lead Cellar is closed November to Easter. The Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum, Böttcherstrasse 6–10 (% 0421/ 336-5077), is dedicated to Bremen’s outstanding painter (1876–1907) and contains many of her best works, including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

198 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Admission is 5€ ($6.25) for adults and 3€ ($3.75) for children. With the same ticket, you can visit the nearby Museum im Roselius Haus (same address, phone, and hours), a 16th-century merchant’s home filled with Ludwig Roselius’s collection of medieval art and furniture. Böttcherstrasse leads to the Schlachte embankment along the Weser River. The riverside promenade is lined with taverns and restaurants and is the locale of the Weserflohmarkt (Weser Flea Market), open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Schlachte embankment also is where you find guided boat trips (in German only) around the harbor. Boats depart from the landing in front of the Martinikirche (St. Martin’s Church) every day from April through October at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. on a voyage that lasts about 75 minutes. The cost is 8.50€ ($11) for adults and 4.50€ ($5.50) for children. A five-minute walk southeast from the Schlachte brings you to the charming albeit touristy Schnoor district, Bremen’s oldest surviving quarter. The 16th- and 17th-century cottages in the Schnoor once were the homes of simple fishermen. In an effort to revive old arts and crafts, they’re now rented to artists and artisans. Sightseers visit not only for the atmosphere but also for the unusual restaurants, shops, and art galleries.

Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own
Seven Gothic church spires rise above the picturesque town of Lübeck, located 66km (41 miles) northeast of Hamburg in the state of SchleswigHolstein. (See the “Lübeck” map in this chapter.) Along the ancient streets of its Altstadt, you find more buildings from the 13th to the 15th centuries than in any other city in northern Germany. Most of the buildings, including the churches, are fine examples of the redbrick architecture so characteristic of northern Germany. The city’s architectural heritage is so rich that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) placed Lübeck on its World Heritage list of international monuments. UNESCO bestows World Heritage status to places judged to have exceptional cultural and historic value. From the 13th century on, Lübeck was capital of the Hanseatic League, the powerful association of merchants that controlled trade along the Baltic as far as Russia. The town still retains the name Hansestadt Lübeck. Lübeck makes a rewarding daytrip from Hamburg, less than an hour away by train, but its charms may beguile you to stay overnight. With its enormous churches, high-gabled houses, massive gates, and historic buildings at every turn, Lübeck is a delightful city to explore.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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200 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Lübeck’s Nobel sons
Lübeck has had several famous sons, notably Thomas Mann and Willy Brandt. As a young man, Brandt (1913–1992), who later became West German chancellor and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971, opposed the Nazis so vehemently that he had to flee on a boat to Norway. The Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck at 21 Königstrasse is in the process of being restored and is expected to open in 2007. The writer Thomas Mann (1875– 1955) used his hometown of Lübeck as the setting for his novel Buddenbrooks, which catapulted the 27-year-old author to international fame in 1902. In 1929, Mann won the Nobel Prize for literature. The Buddenbrookhaus (described in “Walking through Lübeck,” in this chapter), which belonged to Mann’s grandparents, is a place of literary pilgrimage for fans of Mann. Günter Grass, author of The Tin Drum, won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1999. Although he was not born in Lübeck, he lives nearby. The relationship between Grass’s literary output and his artwork is explored in the permanent exhibits at the Günther Grass House, Glockengiesserstrasse 21 (% 0451/1224231;, which opened in 2002. Here you can see some of Grass’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures. Grass unleashed a torrent of criticism in 2006 when he revealed, in advance of the publication of his autobiography, that he had served in the Nazi Waffen SS at age 17; some critics suggested the Nobel Prize committee should revoke Grass’s prize. The museum is open daily April through October from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., November through March 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults, 2.20€ ($2.75) students and children.

Getting there
By train, you can reach Lübeck from anywhere in Germany or Europe. Dozens of trains arrive daily from Hamburg, only 40 minutes away. For train schedules and information, call German Rail (% 11861) or visit their Web site ( By boat, you can take a passenger or car ferry service between Denmark (the port of Rødbyhaven) and Lübeck (the port of Puttgarden). ScandLines (% 04371/865-161; offers daily departures. TT Saga Line (% 04502/80181; operates between the German port of Travemünde and the Swedish port of Trelleborg. By car, you can reach Lübeck via the A1 Autobahn north and south.

Finding information and taking a walking tour
In the train station, Touristinformation Hauptbahnhof (% 0451/864675) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m. The Lübeck und Travemünde Tourist Service Welcome Center, Holstentorplatz 1 (% 01805/882-233; 0.12€/15¢ per minute;, across from the Holstentor Museum, is open January through May and October through November, Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


3 p.m.; June through September and December, hours are Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. This office can help you with hotel reservations. Two-hour walking tours (6€/$7.50) of the historic city depart from the Holstentor tourist office Monday through Saturday at 2 p.m. (additional walks at 11 a.m. July–Sept) and on Sundays year-round at 11 a.m.

Orienting yourself
The Trave and Wakenitz rivers and other waterways encircle Lübeck’s Altstadt, an oval-shaped island a little more than a mile long and less than a mile wide. Eight bridges connect the old town with greater Lübeck on the mainland. Only about 12,000 residents (out of about 225,000) live on the island, which is where all the major attractions are located.

Getting around Lübeck
The Altstadt and all the major attractions can be reached on foot from the train station. You also can take buses 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, or 16 from the train station into the Altstadt. The fare is 2€ ($2.50). A fun and relaxing way to see Lübeck is by water. Excursion boats operated by MAAK-Linie (% 0451/706-3859; leave from docks on the Trave River just north of the Holstentor. In summer, departures are hourly between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (11 a.m.–4 p.m. the rest of the year). The trip (commentary in German with English text available) lasts one hour and encircles the entire Altstadt. Cost is 7€ ($8.75) for adults, 5.50€ ($7) for seniors, and 3€ ($3.75) for children.

Staying in Lübeck
Lübeck offers a full range of hotel options, from small inns and pensions to modern facilities. To enjoy the ancient, atmospheric charms of Lübeck, I recommend that you choose a hotel in the Altstadt. The Lübeck and Travemünde Tourist Service (see “Finding information and taking a walking tour” earlier in this chapter) also can help you find a room.

Special events in Lübeck
The Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival, one of the best music festivals in Germany, occurs in Lübeck (which has a famed music school) with performances from early July until the end of August every year. For more information, call % 0800/7463-2002 or log on to A popular Christmas market featuring handmade wares from all across northwestern Germany takes place during the three weeks preceding Christmas.

202 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Klassik Altstadt Hotel
$ –$$ Altstadt
If you want to stay in a smaller, older hotel in the Altstadt, Klassik Altstadt Hotel is a good choice. The 28 individually decorated rooms, all named for famous Lübeckers, have a pleasant, traditional style. Most of the bathrooms have showers; a few have tubs. The on-site restaurant is good and moderately priced. See map p. 199. Fischergrube 52, 23552 Lübeck. % 0451/702980. Fax: 0451/73778. Rates: 77€–130€ ($96–$162) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

Radisson SAS Senator Hotel Lübeck
$$$ Altstadt
If you want a modern, full-service hotel, the Radisson is the best place to stay. A pedestrian bridge connects the hotel from its riverside location to the Altstadt. The 231 medium-sized rooms are attractively furnished. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Amenities include an on-site health club with pool, sauna, and steam rooms, and a computer in the lobby that enables you to check your e-mail. Children up to age 12 stay for free in their parents’ room. See map p. 199. Willy-Brandt-Allee 6, 23554 Lübeck. % 800/333-3333 in the U.S. or 0451/1420. Fax: 0451/142-2222. Rates: 160€ ($200). AE, MC, V.

Dining in Lübeck
As you may have guessed, fresh seafood from the North and Baltic seas is featured on the menus of many restaurants in Lübeck. In this section are a few good restaurants where you can dine well in historic surroundings.

Historischer Weinkeller
$$ –$$$ Altstadt
The Historischer Weinkeller, located beneath the 13th-century HeiligenGeist-Hospital (see the “Walking through Lübeck” section next), is an excellent and atmospheric restaurant with an international menu. You can choose from several different fixed-priced menus, including a summertime “lübsche Gasterei” (Lübeck hospitality), a seven-course medieval feast. You may begin with smoked Norwegian salmon, gooseliver pâté, or a fishbased soup. Entrees range from filet of cod with sauerkraut and poached haddock in a mustard sauce to meat dishes and vegetarian choices. Note: This restaurant is divided into two sections, the Kartoffelkeller (potato cellar) and the Weinkeller (wine cellar); of the two, the Weinkeller is the more pleasant place to dine. See map p. 199. Koberg 8. % 0451/76234. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($18–$25). Fixedprice menu 25€–40€ ($31–$50). AE, MC, V. Open: Daily noon to midnight.

if available.m. all delicious.000 medieval buildings still stand within a 5-sq. % 0451/72011.m. Main courses: 15€–23€ ($18–$29). Main courses: 8€–25€ ($10– $31).Chapter 13: Hamburg. Reservations recommended. to midnight.m. and the staff is friendly and professional. Then I’d recommend the fish plate. but approximately 1. They were so pleased with the sweet results that they’ve been making Marzipan ever since. Breitestrasse 98 (% 0451/53010). Open: Daily 10 a. and 6–11 p. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. more modern dining room behind it. decorated with wooden ship models hanging from the ceiling. Niederegger’s is open daily from 9 a. About one-fifth of the Altstadt was destroyed in a 1942 bombing. MC. you sit at wooden tables lit by candlelight. Bremen. Walking through Lübeck Concentrate your sightseeing in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt. MC. According to legend. AE. See map p. As a starter. Ristorante Roberto Rossi im Schabbelhaus $$ –$$$ Altstadt Occupying two elegant town houses on a lovely medieval street. this historic restaurant is a good place to enjoy regional specialties. To sample Lübeck’s famous Marzipan. to 6 p. In the front dining room. followed by fresh fish from the Baltic Sea. located right across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806. See map p. V. order “herring three ways” on black bread.m. 199. surrounded by the Trave River and its canals. An English-language menu is available to help guide your choices. V. The atmospheric dining room overlooks a small garden. The service is attentive.m. dinner 39€–57€ ($49–$71). Breite Strasse 2. AE. or you can go upstairs to the pleasant cafe for dessert and coffee. and the tasting menus are good value for money. there’s a lighter. stop in at Cafe Niederegger. Lübeckers ran out of flour during a long siege and started grinding almonds to make bread. Try the crab soup. The fish here is excellent and recommended. especially fish. Mengstrasse 48–52. which comes with three different kinds of fish.-mile) area around the . a sweet almond paste. On the ground floor. you can purchase bars and boxes of Marzipan to take away (an excellent gift idea).-km (2-sq. and Lübeck 203 The sweet side of Lübeck Lübeck is the world capital of Marzipan. % 0451/76776. Schiffergesellschaft $$ –$$$ Altstadt A popular spot for tourists and locals alike. fixed-price menus lunch 18€–22€ ($22–$27). You also can get pasta dishes such as tagliatelle with fresh mushrooms or with salmon and lemon. the wine list is excellent. 199. Schabbelhaus serves good Italian cuisine and some classic North German dishes.

or single-sail vessels). takes about four to five hours.. The Rathaus stands on the north and east sides of the Marktplatz. After you enter the Altstadt. a large square filled with meat. and vegetable stalls every Monday and Thursday. cross the Puppenbrücke (Dolls’ Bridge) and head east into the Altstadt. stand the Salzspeicher (Salt Lofts). churches. Just south. What follows are the stops on a walking tour of the Altstadt that begins at the Hauptbahnhof (train station). where the salt was used to preserve fish. you reach Lübeck’s Rathaus. one of the oldest and most beautiful city halls in Germany. models of Hanseatic Kogge (cogs. Towering above the Markt and the Rathaus is one of northern Germany’s most outstanding examples of the brick Gothic style. 2. directly in front of you is the 15thcentury Holstentor (Holsten Gate). The Rathaus was rebuilt several times since the first foundation stone was laid in 1230.m. You can see the interior on a guided tour (in German) Monday through Friday at noon and 3 p. 1. The building sits on brick arcades that allow easy access to the main entrance on Breite Strasse. shops. and medieval torture instruments. the newest from 1745. fruit. 1€ ($1. is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures. In December.75) for adults and 1.50€ ($2) for children and students. and guild halls. The present building. across the street from the Holstentor. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. 4.m. with stops at museums.m. Rathausplatz (% 0451/122-1005). a group of six gabled Renaissance buildings. Merchants stored salt (considered “white gold”) from nearby Lüneburg in these buildings before shipping it to Scandinavia. a local history museum housed within the gate and contains a model of Lübeck as the town appeared in the mid 17th century. topped by slender turrets..m. Schüsselbuden 13 (% 0451/397-700).m. 3. Mary’s Church). From the train station. The entire walk. Continuing a few blocks east on Holstenstrasse. You can see everything in less than 30 minutes. Builders used brick as the predominant material for houses. The Marienkirche served as a model for many . The bridge got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its stone railings. the cost is 3€ ($3. the oldest dates from 1579. to 6 p. the Markt is the site of Lübeck’s famous Christmas Market. the twin-towered Marienkirche (St.204 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Marktplatz. once the main town entrance. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. to 6 p. Black glazedbrick courses (horizontal lines) and round panels emblazoned with coats of arms adorn the redbrick walls.25) for students and children under 18. Here you’ll find the new tourist Welcome Center and the newly revamped Museum Holstentor (% 0451/122-4129). Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults.

m. former West German chancellor and Nobel Peace Prize winner. Max Beckmann. was the author of Professor Unrat. formed from two 18th-century town houses. to 6 p. has the highest brick vaulting in the world. At Glockengiesserstrasse 25.m. carrying on a tradition established by St. the childhood home of Willi Brandt. and documents chronicling Mann’s life. 4. is the Füchtingshof. 8. to 6 p. The house is open daily April through October from 10 a. you find the Günther Grass Haus museum.m. a few blocks north of the Rathaus. just north of the Marienkirche. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter for more information.buddenbrookhaus. the rest of the year from 11 a.m. 1€ ($1. The Magic Mountain. They still are there. Mengstrasse 4 (% 0451/122-4192. The high. Heinrich Mann (1871–1950). just to the south of the Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus.m. An outstanding collection of German Romantic and German Impressionist paintings is on view at Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. 9.m. whose works include Death in Venice.. Mary’s best-known organist and composer. 36m (120 ft. and that of his family. left as a reminder and warning of the horrors of war. plan to spend at least half an hour at Buddenbrookhaus. 6. you find a comprehensive collection of photographs. and Buddenbrooks.. the source of the movie The Blue Angel. and Ernst Barlach. and has exhibits relating to the city’s cultural life in the 18th and 19th centuries. www. If you’re a fan of the great German writer Thomas Mann. also displays major 20th-century artists such as Leon Kirchner. This big. is in the process of being restored and will become the Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck. and Lübeck 205 other churches built in the Baltic region. Mann’s brother. Dietrich Buxtehude (1637–1707). Königstrasse 9–11 (% 0451/122-4148). to 5 p.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Organ concerts take place during the summer and fall. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. 7. Inside. for information.. stone-and-stucco house with a gabled roof belonged to Mann’s grandparents and was the model for the family home Mann wrote about in Buddenbrooks. 5.) and you enter a tranquil courtyard with houses still occupied by widows. at Glockengiesser 21. letters. to 5 p. At Königstrasse 21. from birth to death.25) for students and children 6 to 18. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter. During a WWII bombing attack. Next door. an almshouse built in the 17th century for the widows of seamen and merchants.m. to noon and 3–6 p.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. admission is 7€ ($9) for adults. .60€ ($6) for students. Its central nave. the tower bells crashed down into the church and embedded themselves in the stone floor.m. Step through the ornamented baroque portal (open 9 a. On the second floor are period rooms and artifacts. Bremen. solid.

to 6 p. you’ll sometimes see medieval redbrick buildings decorated with black glazed bricks. dating from 1612 and built for the widows of merchants and craftsmen. is one of the oldest social-welfare institutions in Europe. (Salt was considered “white gold. to 7 p. Housed in a 16th-century Augustinian convent that was later used as an almshouse and a prison. Am Koburg (% 0451/122-2040). The church was destroyed in WWII and later rebuilt. The Glandorps-Gang. . Two blocks northeast of the Dom.m. 1€ ($1. St.m. 1€ ($1..m. On the south side of town. This building.206 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany White gold and black bricks In Lübeck and in other cities in northern Germany. The cabins remain intact.m. and take the elevator up to the top of its tower for a memorable view of Lübeck and its port. at nos. the museum has a noteworthy collection of medieval and Renaissance altarpieces. 11. including a work by Hans Memling.m. The black glaze comes from salt being sprinkled on the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder. Peter’s Church). Construction on this massive edifice began in 1173.m. 130 tiny wooden cabins without ceilings were built within its enormous main hall. with its belfry and four turreted spires. you find Lübeck’s Dom. You can see everything in about half an hour. From March through September. In the early 19th century. the church itself isn’t that interesting. 12.m.-Annen-Strasse 15 (% 0451/122-4137).m. and the Glandorps-Hof.”) 10. A short distance to the north stands the Heiligen-Geist-Hospital (Hospital of the Holy Spirit).50€ ($3) for adults. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. Mühlendamm 2–6 (% 0451/74704). The building is open daily from 10 a. 14. open Tues–Sun 10 a. to 6 p. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. To round off your tour of Lübeck. head over to the 750-year-old Petrikirche (St.25) for students and children 6 to 18.25) for students and children. the church is open daily from 9 a. Admission is 2. are the city’s oldest almshouses. Schmiedestrasse (% 0451/397330). and you can poke your head inside them (no admission charge. Except for its size. 13. at no. and one of the most important monumental buildings of the Middle Ages. 41. to 6 p. 49–51.-Annen-Museum.). when the building was converted to a shelter for elderly men and women. Philanthropic local citizens founded the hospital in 1230.–5 p. you find the St.m.

Chapter 14 Dresden.) The cities of Dresden and Leipzig. S Dresden: Florence on the Elbe Dresden. The Frauenkirche is a symbol of what Dresden once was — a city known as “Florence on the Elbe. Weimar. destroyed in the bombings of World War II (WWII). and musical heritage. Leipzig. (See the “Saxony and Thuringia” map in this chapter. with their outstanding museums. Perhaps the most important celebratory event was the reopening of the famous domed Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). are the largest cities in Saxony. famed for its river scenery. the mighty Elbe River flows through an area near Dresden known as Saxon Switzerland. Dresden became the most important city in Saxony when the ruling Wettin . celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006. associated with Goethe (Germany’s greatest writer. In Saxony. winding roads lead through spruce-covered hills to unspoiled villages that waft you back to the Middle Ages. historic buildings.” and renowned for its architecture and art treasures — and hopes to become again. Narrow. Both states are rich in sightseeing possibilities. and Weimar: Jewels of the East In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Dresden and its famous museums ᮣ Discovering old and new Leipzig ᮣ Enjoying the beautiful town of Weimar ᮣ Remembering the past at Buchenwald axony and Thuringia (Thüringen in German) are side-by-side Länder (states) in eastern Germany that are well worth visiting. located 198km (123 miles) south of Berlin and 111km (69 miles) southeast of Leipzig. is the cultural jewel in Thuringia’s crown. author of Faust) and the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Thuringia is considered the “green heart” of Germany because the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) covers much of its southern portion.

bahn. the preeminent personality in the town’s history. By train Getting to Dresden by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe is easy. You can buy your ticket at the S-Bahn window in the underground station beneath the new terminal. and a good road network. Many visitors come just to visit the museums in the Zwinger Palace and to see the treasures of the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). Dresden-Neustadt. Dresden emerged as the top contender for tourists in the former East Germany. call Deutsche Bahn at % which runs from the airport to the two main train stations. is the most ambitious reconstruction effort in the entire country and marks an important stage in Dresden’s recovery. at Schlesischer Park. By plane Flughafen Dresden (% 0351/881-3360. including the Airport After reunification. within walking distance of Altstadt (Old Town). A taxi from the airport to the center of Dresden costs about 16€ ($20). 1945. the city airport.208 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Dynasty decided to make the city its capital in the late 15th century.dresden-airport. Dresden flourished as one of the great cultural centers of Europe. . although some trains. Getting there Getting to Dresden is easy.70€ ($2). This major city has an airport. The trip takes about 20 minutes and costs 1. in the reopened portion of the Residenzschloss (palace). lies 9km (51⁄2 miles) north of the city center. Historic buildings have since been rebuilt. Under the rule of Elector Augustus the Strong. www. Then came the night of February 13. More than a dozen trains make the daily trip from Berlin (2–21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (41⁄2 hours). The reconstruction of the Frauenkirche. Dresden has two main rail stations. frequent train service. the station on the north side of the river. when Allied firebombs destroyed three-quarters of Dresden’s Altstadt. using original plans and even some of the original stone (bombed pieces of which were found in the Elbe). is used more for regional trains. the beautiful old core of the city. on Wiener Platz on the south side of the Elbe. or visit their Web site www. All long-distance trains pull into the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Lufthansa and other international carriers provide regularly scheduled service between Dresden and cities throughout Germany and Europe. stop at both stations. Around it you find nearly all of Dresden’s major attractions. but the work has taken decades. The easiest and least expensive way to get into the city center is by the Flughafen S-Bahn (airport train). For rail information and schedules.

Leipzig. and Weimar 209 Saxony and Thuringia 0 0 20 km 20 mi N 103 Airport E251 E28 POLAND E26 E55 167 A11 Eberswalde d e r O AN Y Berlin SAXONYANHALT 107 102 5 273 A10 E55 GERM THURINGIA Brandenburg Potsdam E51 A115 Berlin E55 A12 E30 189 Area of Detail E30 2 A13 87 Magdeburg El 81 71 A9 E51 102 Lübben Lübbenau bbenau be R iv Wittenberg er 187 Dessau E55 A13 2 87 101 97 6 91 Quedlinburg Eisleben 6 80 Halle Leipzig A14 Meissen Dresden 173 4 93 88 A4 E40 Buchenwald 7 Erfurt To Eisenach Dornburg Weimar Jena A4 E40 2 Altenburg E55 Chemnitz 174 E441 Arnstadt Th ür in ge Plauen E442 r E49 4 W al d E51 Hof E49 E48 Karlovy Vary 6 Coburg 279 C Z E C H 27 R E P U B L I C A70 E48 21 E49 Bayreuth A93 22 Bamberg A73 To Nuremberg Plzen E50 E50 .Chapter 14: Dresden.

. to 4 p.m. Germany’s reunification triggered a real estate and reconstruction boom in this picturesque neighborhood of art galleries. is the main thoroughfare (and site of the main tourist information office). Finding information At the Information Center. On the north side of the river is Dresden-Neustadt. or concert tickets. The same services are available at the Information Center located in the Schinkelwache (Old City Guard House). near the main train station. you can book a hotel room and purchase a map of Dresden and information booklets in English. including art museums. Service is limited after midnight. and boat tours in the Dresden area. to 4 p. maintains an extensive system of bus and tram lines within the city and far out into the suburbs. The cost is 19€ ($24). Trying to find a parking spot in the center of Dresden isn’t easy. Getting around Dresden If you plan to visit only the historic center of Dresden. and Sunday (Schinkelwache only) 10 a. Saturday 10 a. hotels.m. city tours. The Dresden Card is good for 48 hours on all trams. Orienting yourself The Elbe River divides Dresden more or less in half. and restaurants line Hauptstrasse and Königstrasse. Four exits (Altstadt. www. churches in the Altmarkt (Old Market) and Neumarkt (New Market) squares. The A4 comes in from Leipzig and Bavaria (eventually the A4 will connect Dresden to Prague). www. you can easily get around on foot. and restaurants. apartments. Neustadt. buses.m. Hellerau. The hours for both are Monday through Friday 10 a. its main streets. you find all the major cultural attractions. % 0351/857-1011. Prager Strasse. opera. boutiques. The city’s transport authority. at Theaterplatz Square. Pretty 19th-century houses reconstructed to hold Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany By car The A13 Autobahn connects Dresden to Berlin. Prager Strasse (% 0351/491-920.m. the Zwinger Palace museums. I recommend that you park on the outskirts and travel to the city center by bus or tram. and the Semper Opera House. and cafes. Dresdner Verkehrsbetriebe (DVB. You also get reduced prices for other museums.dvbag. You also can buy theater. and ferries in Dresden and admission to all the top and Wilder Mann) lead into the center. dresden-tourist. the newly restored Frauenkirche... On the south side. including those in the Zwinger and the Albertinum. but the major lines continue to operate every hour.m. between the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) and the river. a wide pedestrian street lined with shops. You can buy the Dresden Card at the tourist information centers. to 6 p. The highways run along the west side of the city.

Leipzig.-Külz sse ausstra h n e Wais se er rfs Stü rg nd o er S et er s St Prag Chapter 14: Dresden.25 mi 0.P Zin ze Berlin tras bu Hamburg Gün be lal lee Sternplatz ALTSTADT sse Lingnerplatz Blüherpark Bl herpark Grosser Garten tzst e DINING Ayers Rock 14 Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen 22 Café Schinkelwache 8 Café zur Frauenkirche 15 Fischgalerie 4 Freiberger Schankhaus 19 Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) 6 Luisenhof 21 Rossini 12 Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais 9 ke Ros tr en s sse rS tra rass ae onst as se Webergasse Pirnaischer Platz G r un e Amm r n st nstra e Sac hsa Zw Am Zwinger Pond i 11 12 13 14 Theater6 platz Rathenauplatz Dürerstrasse Pilln itzer llee ass e Stra sse rass e .-HeckertPlatz Sc h we ras se Marie Freib erge r Str asse Postplatz 9 Wilsd ru Schloß E hst hrlic rasse 10 15 17 16 18 19 ffer S trasse strass rine r St 7 8 e An ne ss St ra tra Georgplatz sse -Ring Dr.25 km ag se bu ienMar cke brü ra Ter ss e Albertstrasse sse e ss H au p chs tra tst Frie dri St ra ras er 0 2 sse nig Kö rasse 1 st N ra nuf st rit z 4 3 rd Wiga 18 Carolaplatz sb Köbisplatz se 22 21 20 Sachsenplatz Elb e stras er e s r tra aufe ts Ostr vrien e D ss ei e 5 se Ost W ss ert Alb ücke br zs er it nn Ko ustu ing Aug ei ert Carolsbrüc ch rück e ACCOMMODATIONS Art'otel 5 Hilton Dresden 13 Hotel Bülow Residenz 1 Hotel Martha Hospiz 2 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe 18 Westin Bellevue 3 tra raalle Elbe Ter rass enu fer Fr.M de rg 0 0. and Weimar ra ATTRACTIONS Albertinum 17 Frauenkirche 16 Grünes Gewolbe 10 Katholische Hofkirche 11 Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst 18 Standseilbahn 20 Zwinger 7 Church Information Railway Hauptbahnhof Dresden au e ch ss tti e Lu rass nga e st d Lin B 211 Munich lüh e Wiener Platz Le nn e am Main rst Frankfurt i str iese erw Bürgkstrasse Par sse as se GERMANY Dresden i .

The paddle-wheel steamers depart from the Terrassenufer quay below the Brühlsche Terrasse (embankment) along the south bank of the river and travel upstream to Loschwitz and back again.50€ ($5. Dresden’s hotel prices have soared. 1 p.m. 5. A one-day Tageskarte (day pass) costs 4. you only need a one-zone ticket. Staying in Dresden Since reunification and the amazing increase in tourism. Validate your ticket (by stamping the ticket in a machine) upon entering the bus or tram. Buy your tickets at a tourist information center.m. For a description of the beautiful new Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe. offers a daily 90-minute Super Dresden Tour (Grosse Stadtrundfahrt). see Chapter 22. Double rooms have bathrooms with stainless-steel sinks and a shower. Buses leave every half-hour from 10 a. www. 3 p. book your room ahead of time.m. good for two adults and up to four children in one zone. The cost is 11€ ($14) for adults. both are open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m.m.. and costs 10€ ($13).m. Buy your tickets at the kiosk on the quay.212 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The city is divided into fare zones. Purchase your tickets and a transportation map from the vending machines (marked “Fahrkarten”) outside the train stations.m. or at DVB service centers inside the Hauptbahnhof or at Postplatz.m.m. Seeing Dresden by guided tour Stadtrundfahrt Dresden (% 0351/899-5650. www. .70€ ($2) for a one-hour ride anywhere in Zone 1. and so has the demand for rooms.50). You can hop on or off the bus at any of 22 points along the way. If you want to stay here. a guided (audio headsets for English translations) bus tour that leaves from Schlossplatz. free for children 14 and younger. costs 5. adjacent to the Augustusbrücke (Augustus Bridge) and covers both sides of the Elbe.. located a bit out of the center of the offers a one-hour Historical City Tour (Historischer Stadtrundgang). This tour departs from Postplatz daily at 11 a.m. The price is 18€ ($22) for adults.. A Familientageskarte (family day ticket).50€ ($7). to 3 p. The 174 goodsized bedrooms are stylish and comfortably chic without being pretentious. unless you’re visiting the outskirts of Dresden. are the “artiest” of any hotel in Dresden. An English-speaking guide accompanies the 1 and 3 p. and 3:30 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m.50€ ($7) for children. Art’otel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt The six floors of this dramatic postmodern a walk through the city’s historic center. Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt (% 0351/866-090) offers daily 90-minute boat trips along the Elbe from May into October at 11 a.dvbag. A single ticket for the bus or tram costs 1.. tours from Thursday through Sunday. to 7 p. DVB (% 0351/8571011. and 5 p. including the lovely Loschwitz neighborhood.stadtrundfahrt. You find a small gym and sauna on the premises. to 6 p.

Fax: 0351/492-2777. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. 211. and many of the rooms have lovely river and Altstadt views. Rates: 160€–215€ ($200–$269) double. MC. www. The 50 rooms have a simple. Baby-sitting can be arranged. Rooms are midsize and somewhat short on style but well-maintained. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. and sauna on the premises. Rates: 140€–250€ ($175–$312) double. www. DC. Rates include buffet breakfast. V. Fax: 0351/800-3100. 211. Each of the 30 spacious rooms is laid out differently and furnished with modern designer and reproduction Biedermeier pieces. % 0351/80030. DC. V. 01067 Dresden. Hotel Martha Hospiz $$ Neustadt Managed by the Association of Christian Hoteliers (VCH). this simple but comfortable four-story hotel is a 15-minute walk from the heart of Dresden’s Altstadt. MC. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. The large marble-tiled bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. and Weimar 213 See map p. You find a pool. Rates: 130€ ($162) double. AE. The hotel’s elegant. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. Westin Bellevue $$$$ Neustadt The 339-room Westin Bellevue is located near the most attractive part of the Elbe River. Rates: 250€ ($312) double. % 800-445-8667 in the U. An der Frauenkirche 5.hilton. AE. Ostra-Allee 33. V. 01097 Dresden. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. fitness club. expensive. Hilton Dresden $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This 333-room hotel across from the Frauenkirche is one of the best (and largest) in eastern Germany. and Canada. Rates include buffet % 0351/81760. 211. Bathrooms. . this luxury boutique hotel is housed in a building that dates from 1730. on the north bank of the Elbe River. Hotel Bülow Residenz $$$$ Neustadt One of the finest restorations in Neustadt. See map p. MC. 01067 Dresden. MC. AE. V. Tram: 4 or 8 to Rähnitzgasse 19. are on the small side. 01097 Dresden. http://marthahospiz. AE. Michelin-starred Caroussel Restaurant serves fresh French cuisine with a Mediterranean influence (main courses 25€–35€/ $ 31–$ 44). each with a shower. % 0351/ The staff is unusually friendly and helpful. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). DC. See map p. modern décor and are well-maintained. 211. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24).Chapter 14: Dresden. Nieritzstrasse 11. Leipzig.buelow-residenz. See map p.dresden.S. Fax: 0351/817-6222. or 0351/86420. Fax: 0351/864-2725.

you can walk across the river to the Altstadt in ten minutes. % 0351/490-1188. Tram 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. 211. See map p.m. and another 800 can be accommodated within the sprawling beer garden (open Apr–Oct). Am Brauhaus 8B. if not spacious. V. and roasts. 01097 Dresden. % 800-937-8461 in the U. Schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). Dining in Dresden Dresden is bursting with new restaurants of every kind. or 0351/805-1733. well-appointed. Café Schinkelwache $ –$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL This sandstone structure in the center of Theaterplatz was built in 1832 by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel to house soldiers and guards. The bathrooms have shower units or shower-tub combinations.S. Münzgasse 8. soups. Ayers Rock $ –$$ Altstadt AUSTRALIAN This likable Australian restaurant with outdoor tables is famous for its cocktails but also serves German and Aussie beer on tap. ostrich sautéed fish with parsley and onions. and comfortable. sausages. Main courses: 8. Children younger than 18 stay for free in their parents’ room. Waldschlösschen beer is brewed on the premises. riverside park stretches behind the hotel.50€–17€ ($11–$21). In 1995. AE. Open: Daily 10 a. Tram: 9 from the Hauptbahnhof stops in front of the hotel at Neustädter Markt.–1 a.–3 a. . Open: Daily 11 a. grassy. AE. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen $ –$$ Neustadt GERMAN Some 250 diners can fit into the dining rooms in this newly built replica of an old-fashioned beer hall.m. Neustadt (5km/3 miles northeast of city center). Fax: 0351/805-1749. and salads. Tram: 11 to Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen. the narrow lane that runs north from the Frauenkirche to the river. the bar area becomes a crowded singles scene. AE. 211. See map p. www. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). V. and Canada. Menu items include kangaroo rump steak. MC. DC.214 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The rooms are large. MC. wander down Münzgasse. A green. You find an on-site pool and health club. MC. 211. Grosse Meissner Strasse 15. DC.m. you can eat and drink to the sounds of an oom-pahpah band. On Saturday and Sunday afternoons. grilled salmon. V. Rates: 250€–350€ ($312–$437) double.m. The menu features heaping plates of traditional favorites such as roast pork shank. DC. grilled lamb cutlets. % 0351/811-990. As the night wears on. For a sample of the city’s culinary offerings. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p.

Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). 4. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. 8. You can order a salad with turkey strips. and white fish served with tomato-flavored spaghettini. % 0351/490-3909. See map p. or coffee. V. AE. Tram: 1. a baked dumpling filled with cheese and raisins. MC. You can also sit and enjoy wine. soups. Fresh sushi is available on Wednesday and Friday nights. 2.Chapter 14: Dresden. Leipzig. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. served with black bread. Main courses: 9€–18€ ($11–$23). dramatic lighting. and pork goulash with cabbage and dumplings. 7. See map p. MC. beer. a bowl of Linseneintopf (lentil stew). and Worcestershire sauce. 211.m.50–$6. An der Frauenkirche 5. minimalist design. and a blueblack color scheme. 11. and veal stew.–2 a. Main courses: 6. Reservations recommended. AE. Main courses: 14€–24€ ($17–$30). Open: Daily 9 a. MC. Tues–Sat 6–11 p. scampi. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. See map p. 12.m. located directly across from the Frauenkirche. The menu changes every week. is a good place to sit outside and eat or have a drink.m. Fresh seafood dishes may include salmon with champagne sauce. meal-size salads. V. Open: Daily 10 a.50€–12€ ($8–$15). Menu selections include pastries. is a good place to perch for a casual meal or dessert and coffee. with its outside terrace overlooking the newly restored Frauenkirche. % 0351/490-3506. Fresh oysters and marinated herring.. pastas such as rigatoni with chicken breast. Fischgalerie $$ –$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD The interior of Dresden’s best fish restaurant is a sophisticated affair with an open-view kitchen. Pastries: 2€–5€ ($2. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 3 p.25). For dessert try the homemade Quarkkeutchen. The menu typically has dishes such as grilled lamb cutlet with asparagus and sauce béarnaise. The menu offers simple but delicious Saxon staples such as a Saxon potato fritter with cheese and strips of smoked salmon. Maxstrasse 2. are good appetizers.m. and Saxon sauerbraten (marinated roast beef). 14. Accompany your meal with a glass of Freiberger Preminium Pils.m. and Weimar 215 the building was rebuilt and reconfigured into an intimate cafe with outdoor tables on the terrace (you find a tourist information center around the other side). . crepes with mushrooms and chicken. 211. to midnight. or 17. V. AE. Freiberger Schankhaus $$ Altstadt SAXON/GERMAN This place. or bouillabaisse with North Sea fish. Sophienstrasse am Theaterplatz. or chicken breast fricassee with mustard. % 0351/498-9836. Café zur Frauenkirche $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This street-side corner cafe. 211. cheese.

The Bierkeller (beer hall) with a painted ceiling serves traditional dishes such as Sauerbraten (pot. Pastries: 4–6.m. Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais $$ Altstadt GERMAN The food in this famous cellar restaurant is a modern approximation of a medieval feast. Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) $$ Altstadt ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL This quartet of restaurants in a neoclassical building. AE. to midnight. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25).–11 p. once housed Italian workers. Menu items may include homemade ravioli with arugula and cheese. Bellotto.50€–15€ ($8–$18). Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Main courses: 6. is a good place for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). and juniper sauce.50€ ($5–$8). AE. MC. Main courses: 19€–29€ ($24–$36). Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.or oven-roasted marinated beef).216 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. The Café. as does the formal. AE. DC. or you may want to try the famous house specialty. See map p. Open: Daily 10 a. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). MC. MC. Rossini $$$ Altstadt ITALIAN Rossini offers fine Italian cuisine in a stylish. Taschenberg 3. 211. V. DC. 211. Flickering candles set beneath vaulted ceilings provide suitable atmosphere. wild boar. 211. a graceful-looking room with windows that overlook the river. served with asparagus and roast potatoes. V. For dessert try the tiramisu with bananas or sorbet with champagne and fruit. % 0351/864-2855. You can order dishes such as grilled rabbit with thyme or trout fried in butter. one floor above the lobby of the Dresden Hilton. % 0351/498-160. Open: Daily 11 a. an upscale Italian eatery on the top floor with an outdoor balcony overlooking Theaterplatz. called Dirndls. veal in thyme sauce with tomato fettuccine. V. DC. serves dishes such as risotto with artichokes and radicchio and veal scaloppini. Neumarkt 8 (in the Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe). completely smokefree setting. Reservations recommended. V.m. Open: Daily 6–11:30 p. Each of the four restaurants has a different theme. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. An der Frauenkirche 5 (in the Dresden Hilton). See map p. The restaurant has a menu in English to help you make up your mind. and so do the waitresses in their traditional German dresses. Theaterplatz.m. MC. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. dress-up.–1 a. red-walled Weinzimmer (wine room).m. % 0351/500-4347. . AE. “August’s Hunting Trophy”: roasted medallions of venison.m. % 0351/497-260. or lamb with applewine sauce and polenta. erected on the site of a cluster of cottages (“the Italian Village”). See map p. 211.m. Open: Daily 11 a.

and Sauerbraten with cabbage and dumplings. the Neustadt quarter has Germany’s largest concentration of houses from the Gründerzeit (Biedermeier.Chapter 14: Dresden. to 9 p.m. de. The German/Saxon menu features traditional dishes such as potato soup with sausages. 4€ ($5) children and seniors. A money-saving Tageskarte (day ticket) gets you into all four museums in the Zwinger complex.. The Dresden Card. Sunday from 10 a.m. Although you won’t find the museum attractions of the Altstadt here. visit the Web site of the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden (State Art Collections). a residential area called Weisser Hirsch.m. First.m. the historic center. Exploring Dresden You find all of Dresden’s major attractions in the relatively compact Altstadt. The collection concentrates on German art. Bergbahnstrasse 8 (% 0351/214-9960). Main courses go for 10€ to 17€ ($12–$22). The restaurant accepts MasterCard and Visa. The Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery).and 20th-century art. and memorable dining experience. is a rich collection of 19th.m. the Saxon King Albert converted this former royal arsenal into a home for his vast collection of art and precious jewelry.m.” earlier in this chapter. taking up two floors.). is another money-saving option that includes all public transportation. www. and costs 3€ ($3. to 1 a. a funicular that began operation in 1895. easy. and Weimar 217 Dinner with a view For a fun. and the Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (all described in this section). but relax with a glass of beer or wine and enjoy the view of Dresden’s spires. early 19th-century) period.–2 p. the Neues Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). to midnight (brunch 10 a. For more information on all of Dresden’s major museums. The service can be slow. Leipzig. at Trachtenbergerstrasse 40. Across the street from the station is Luisenhof. described under “Finding Information. The Neustadt quarter on the north bank of the Elbe is another area you may want to visit. Albertinum Altstadt Between 1884 and 1887. starting with moody works by Caspar David . for 10€ ($13) adults. you’ll see the Standseilbahn. The funicular runs from 6 a. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. take Tram 8 to Schillerplatz and walk across the famous Blaue Wunder bridge. On the other side. a restaurant with an outdoor terrace offering wonderful panoramic views of the Elbe River and Dresden in the distance.75) round-trip. take one of Dresden’s old funiculars (mountain railways) up to the top of a hill in the suburb of Loschwitz and dine in a pleasant restaurant overlooking the city.skd-dresden. Take the funicular to the top.m.

211. bronze statuettes. the East German government let the charred ruin remain as a memorial. except during Sunday concerts. The Historic . The 1945 Allied bombing of Dresden destroyed 80 percent of the city. Open: Daily. The Neues Grünes Gewölbe (New Green Vault) features ten rooms of selected masterworks from the huge collection of 16th..m. the Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Historic Green Vault) opened. Once again this baroque church dominates the historic center of Dresden. % 0351/491-4619. including the Frauenkirche. and take advantage of the free audio guide. generally 10 a. Even better. % 0351/6560-670. if you want it. Brühl Terrace. After the war. an exact replica of the 18th-century original. See map p. Currently closed. including rococo chests. The sculpture collection has been moved to the Zwinger (see later in this section). A painstaking restoration project began in 1993 and was finally completed in 2006. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. and as of press time there was no scheduled date for its reopening. featuring a larger selection of the collection (no tours allowed. Admission: Free. Tram: 3. for performance information. ivory carvings. intricately designed mirrors. 7. and priceless porcelain.m. Note: This great collection closed in January 2006 for major redesign work. Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) Altstadt Built between 1726 and 1743. Neumarkt. 211. step inside the brilliant white interior to admire the immaculate restoration work. Allot at least an hour to see the highlights. but the paintings in the New Masters Gallery unfortunately won’t be on view until the Albertinum reopens. or 8 to Rathenau Platz.m. The new golden cross atop the dome. the great German Romantic artist. Two collections are open for viewing. But there’s more. Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) Altstadt The fabulous assortment of treasures displayed in the Residenzschloss formerly was housed in the Albertinum. Allow yourself at least an hour to browse this treasure-trove (be prepared for crowds). to noon and 1–6 p. a brilliant painter who ran afoul of the Nazis. but it was moved to this new location in September 2004. and going up to the brilliant works of Dresden-born Otto Dix (1891–1969). See map p. the Frauenkirche on the southeast side of Neumarkt (New Market Square) was the most important Protestant church in Germany and had one of the most famous domes in Europe. enjoy one of the 3 p. this dazzling selection of highlights will more than satisfy your curiosity.218 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Friedrich. The reopening of the church was an event of major symbolic importance. Sunday concerts (8€/$ 10). and all your belongings must be checked before entering).to 18th-century objects. Unless you’re an objet d’art nut. In September 2006. was built by the son of a British bomber pilot who took part in the original bombing raid. each requiring a separate admission. see the Web site. gold jewelry.

Inside. Open: Mon–Fri 9 a. % 0351/4914-2000. Open: Daily 10 a. and folk costumes. and Weimar 219 Green Vault can only be visited with a prebooked timed-entry ticket. 7.m.75) adults. Katholische Hofkirche (Catholic Court Church) Altstadt The restored Hofkirche.). Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts) Neustadt The oldest Renaissance building in Dresden.. Also shown are toys. (Historic Green Vault until 7 p. See map p. the church was constructed in a lavish Italian baroque style with a curving facade and 86m (282-ft. Sat 10 a. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.m.Chapter 14: Dresden. Sun noon to 4 p.m. described earlier).m.m.50) seniors and children.m. Jägerhof. Frederick Augustus II (ruled 1733–1763). You need about 15 minutes to look around. you can see the crypt with the tombs of 49 kings and princes of Saxony. 211. Pöppelmann (1662–1736). M. with its graceful fountains and mythological figures.m. also known as the Cathedral of St.50€ ($4. % 0351/495-1133. 211. % 0351/803-0817. pottery. Kopckestrasse 1. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. The semicircular Wallpavillon at the west end and the adjacent Nymphenbad (Bath of Nymphs). He wanted the Zwinger to be his Versailles and a place where he could show off his incredible art collections. built this magnificent baroque palace in 1719.50) children and students. Schlossplatz.–4 p. and Christmas decorations from the nearby Erzgebirge region.m. 8. available in advance by calling % 0351/4911-9285 or online at www. is the largest church in Saxony.50) adults. Historic Green Vault 12€ ($14). Admission: 3€ ($3. the 16th-century Jägerhof (Hunters Court) houses this fine collection of regional folk art. carvings.–6 p. tableware. designed a series of galleries and domed pavilions to enclose a large rectangular courtyard with formal gardens. and promenades. Residenzschloss. elector of Saxony and king of Poland. hand-woven baskets. What you see are everyday objects used by the common folk — a far cry from the gem-encrusted treasures in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault. 211. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. 5.m. See map p.m. Zwinger Altstadt Augustus the Strong. Admission: Free.skddresden.–6 p. Sophienstrasse. or 51 to Carolaplatz. Built by the son of Augustus the Strong.–4:30 p. See map p. D. fountains. On display are pieces of painted furniture.. The architect. Tram: 3.) bell tower decorated with statues of saints and apostles. 3. Admission: New Green Vault 6€ ($7. 2€ ($2. Trinitas. are notable buildings that rely on the exuberant sculptures of the Bavarian artist Balthasar Permoser .

Admission is 5€ ($ 6. and the Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts. Vermeer. Give yourself about 15 minutes to wander through. you can see a small but superlative collection of armor and weapons from the 15th to 18th centuries. . Canaletto’s views of Dresden are so true to life that they were used as reference works during the post-WWII reconstruction of the city.75) for adults. 2. Selections from the Skulpturen-Sammlung (Sculpture Collection) formerly housed in the Albertinum are now on view in the Zwinger in the ground floor of the Französischer Pavillon (French Pavilion. The collection includes examples from over five millennia. See map p. starting with the ancient cultures of the Mediterranean region through all epochs of European sculpture to the present. 20€ ($ 25) for a family.–6 p. You save money with a Tageskarte (Day Ticket). 2€ ($ 2. In galleries two through four. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. The collection also includes Flemish. with its entrance in the Glockenspiel Pavillon (Carillon Pavillion). 2€ ($ 2. In the Rüstkammer (Armory).50) for children and seniors. you find a series of detailed townscapes of Dresden painted by Canaletto in the mid 18th century. Dutch.25) adults. the Green Vault. Chinese. it costs 10€ ($ 13) for adults. you find the Mathematische-Physikalischer Salon (Salon of Mathematics and Physics). Admission is 6€ ($ 7. Admission is 5€ ($ 6. Allow at least two hours for unhurried browsing. and German paintings by Van Dyck. Rubens. Depending on your interest.50) children and seniors. The most important museum is the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) in the Semper Gallery (entrance at Theaterplatz 1). a separate section of the Semper Gallery. This gallery.50€ ($ 4.m. good for all Zwinger museums. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection).m.m.50€ ($ 3) for children and seniors. — but charge separate admission prices. Again. to 6 p. and Rembrandt. one of the best in the world.50) for children and seniors. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Theaterplatz 1. They all are open the same hours — Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. a Renaissancestyle two-story pavilion linked by one-story galleries. and Meissen porcelain from the 18th and 19th centuries. On the northeast side is the Semper Gallery. you can see everything in under half an hour. The entrance is directly across from the entrance to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. Today. 5€ ($ 6. Gottfried Semper added the pavilion in 1846. entrance in the courtyard). depending on your interest level. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. to the left of the Wallpavillon.220 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany (1651–1732).75) for adults. 3. Tram: 2. % 0351/491-4622. you can spend 15 minutes or an hour. has as its showpiece Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. or 8 to Postplatz. displays Japanese. 211. with all manner of clocks and scientific instruments of the 16th to 19th centuries.50) adults. this entire complex of buildings contains a stunning collection of museums.m.25) adults. On the west side of the Zwinger. 4.25) children and seniors. Dürer. The “giant animal room” on the second floor has a collection of 18th-century Meissen animals.

Leipzig. in the Altstadt. you find many high-quality antiques dealers lining both sides of a lane called Am Goldenen Reiter. The best shops Weihnachtsland am Zwinger. and Weimar 221 The Zwinger Wallpavillon Mathematische– Physikalischer Salon Nymphenbad Julian–Grimau–Allee Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Picture Gallery) Theaterplatz Rüstkamner (Armory) Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection) Glockenspielpavillon Kronentor Shopping in Dresden Dresden’s main shopping streets are Prager Strasse. In Neustadt. Tram: 4 or 8). accessible via Hauptstrasse 17–19 (Tram: 9). to 3 p. where you find department stores Wilsdruffer Strasse.Chapter 14: Dresden. More-exclusive shops reside in Neustadt on the north side of the river on Königstrasse and Hauptstrasse. and Altmarkt. A Trödelmarkt (flea market) is open Saturdays from 9 a. is the best-stocked and most interesting gift Zwinger- graben . Kleine Brüdergasse 5 (% 0351/862-1230.m. beneath the Albertbrücke (bridge) (Tram: 1 or 4).m.

The theater is closed during August. and blown-glass tree decorations from Lauscha. Its hand-painted objects are the most charming and interesting in Dresden. Ticket prices range from 8€ to 78€ ($10–$97). 5km (3 miles) southeast of the center at Donaustrasse 72 (% 0351/4707340. Tram: 3 or 5). The opera and ballet season lasts from September to mid-July. indigo-printed cloth and pottery from Lusatia. . www. selling handmade Christmas. and opera are available from the tourist information centers on Prager Strasse and Theaterplatz. Advent stars from Hermhut. and Easter ornaments from the nearby Erzgebirge region. in the Altmarkt (% 0351/48660. Tram: 4 or 8). rock shows. The famous Christmas market Dresden’s Weihnachtsmarkt (also called the Striezelmarkt) is the oldest Christmas market in Germany. The Dresden Philharmonic performs at the Kulturpalast. Opera and classical concerts The Semperoper (Semper Opera House). Theaterplatz 2 (% 0351/4911705. Tickets for classical concerts. Look for woodcarvings from the Erzgebirge Mountains. If you’re an opera buff. This December event. or 7). New Year’s. Postplatz (% 0351/491-350. gingerbread from Pulsnitz.222 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany shop in Dresden. The main stage for classical theater in the city is the Schauspielhaus. is one of the world’s great opera houses. discos. where actors perform dramas by Goethe. Tram: 13. dance. seeing a performance by the resident company. www. Tram 1. Depending on your tastes. Tickets cost 11€ to 40€ ($14–$50). the Sächsisches Oper (Saxon Opera). so many and varied nightlife options always are available. Tickets are 10€ to 25€ ($13–$31).dresdnerphilharmonie. you can find classical concerts. Several operas by Richard Wagner and Richard Strauss had their premieres in this house. Discovering nightlife in Dresden Dresden is the cultural center of Saxony. filigree lace from Plauen. You can also take a free tour of the studios and factory. Bus: 72 or 76). Anything you buy can be and Shakespeare. 2. can be a highlight of your trip. takes place in the Altmarkt and features handmade regional crafts and gift items and homemade foods. The oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Dresden is Wehsener Porzellan. Summer concerts take place in the courtyards of the Zwinger. Schiller. or just a good place to relax with a glass of wine or a beer. which began in 1434.semperoper. which was built in the mid 19th century and twice rebuilt.

and sheer sandstone cliffs. is a hip dive with sand-covered floors. and Weimar 223 Sailing through Saxon Switzerland If you have the time. daily excursions depart for the Saxon Switzerland route. 8. The club is open daily from 9 p. is a trendy drinking place set in a cellar and popular with students and artists. Leipzig is only a little smaller than Dresden.m. in English. Tram: 7 or 8). Die 100. to 2 a. Alaunstrasse 100 (% 0351/801-3957. to 2 a.saechsische-dampfschiffahrt. 5. or “city of heroes. The trips take from 3 to 41⁄2 hours. until the last person leaves.m. Food and drink are for sale onboard. Although it doesn’t look like much. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. A dance club with room for everyone is DownTown and Groove Station. the downstairs bar stays open until 3 a.m. You can check out all the Elbe excursions. Leipzig: City of Heroes Historic Leipzig. to 3 a. a center of publishing. From May into October. Louisenstrasse 10 (% 0351/801-1739. to 1 a. I recommend that you take a boat trip along the Elbe River.m. is open from 9 a. Raskolnikoff. Other routes travel to Meissen and through Bohemia.) With a population of about 450. The upstairs cafe at Planwirtschaft. located at the confluence of the Weisse Elster and Pleisse rivers. Visiting Leipzig is worth the trip to see a proud East German city rediscovering and redefining itself after years of Communist rule. low-key bar without intrusive music. The place is open Monday to Friday from 11 a..m. Bars and clubs Café Hieronymous..m. Leipzig has long been a major cultural and commercial force in Saxony. (See the “Leipzig” map in this chapter. The Sächsische Dampfschiffahrtsgesellschaft (Saxon Excursion Boat Company. to 2 a. 8. Louisenstrasse 20 (% 0351/8013187. is called a Heldenstadt. or 11).m.m. and home to a famous university . The round-trip cost is 18€ ($22) per person. Tram: 7 or 8). is open daily from 7 p. where you see castle-crowned hilltops. and on Sunday you find dinner and dancing. on weekends. Monday is gay and lesbian night.000 people. or 11). Tram: 7. Cover is 4€ ($5).m. Elbe cruises leave from the dock below Brühl Terrace. deep gorges. 7. online at www. giant rocks.m. a small. Tram: 7 or 8).m.Chapter 14: Dresden. % 0351/ 866-090) runs several trips on historic paddle-wheelers and modern boats through a scenic region known as Sächsisches Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland). open daily from 5 p.” for its role in toppling the former Communist government of East Germany. Böhmische Strasse 34 (% 0351/804-5706. Katherinenstrasse 11–13 (% 0351/802-8801. the esplanade that runs along the south bank of the river.m. Leipzig. Tram:

including the famed Gewandhaus Orchestra.m. The recently restored Hauptbahnhof is one of the most happening places in Leipzig. trade fairs have played an important role in the city’s life. B184) pass by or skirt Leipzig. to lies 11km (7 miles) northwest of the city center. B87. trip time is 14 minutes. www. a new commercial flash point for cafes. Trains arrive daily from Berlin (about 21⁄2 hours). A number of federal highways (B2. shops. and much of the city is rebuilt or being rebuilt. B181.224 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany with some 20. 111km (68 miles) to the northwest. such as Munich and Frankfurt. By car Leipzig is connected to the A9 (Berlin–Munich) and the A14 (Halle– Dresden) Autobahns. and Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig in 1813. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861 or visit www. The 25. and its skyscrapers and nightlife give the city a cosmopolitan flair that’s unique for this region. Leipzig also is a city with many great musical traditions. Willy-Brandt-Platz. Leipzig-Halle International Airport (% 0341/224-1155. is the largest on the Continent.000 students. and Frankfurt (5 hours). and a good road network. You can easily get there from anywhere in Germany. You still find some narrow streets and houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Leipzig was heavily bombed by British and American forces in 1943. Johann Sebastian Bach is closely associated with Leipzig. The fare is 8€ ($10). Getting there Leipzig has all the transportation options of a major city: an airport. The Flughafen (Airport) Express train runs between the airport and the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station) every 30 minutes from 4:30 a. and to other European destinations. Mozart and Mendelssohn performed here. and some Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings and arcades from the early 20th century. B6. B95. You can easily visit Leipzig as a daytrip from Dresden. For centuries. a train By train The Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station). and restaurants. For information and train schedules. Dresden (about 11⁄2–2 hours). By plane Several airlines link Leipzig to major German cities. But people in Leipzig are much more interested in looking forward than looking back. .to 30-minute taxi ride to the city center costs about 30€ ($37). or you may want to spend the night in this lively Saxon metropolis.

Katharinenstrasse Schwanenteich markt Augustusplatz Univers 14 Neu- Universität Leipzig Grimmai scher Steinweg Georg iring Burgplatz atz Schil lerstr asse pl Ro Go ss ldsc Str ass hm e t r.Ri Rossplatz ng Hamburg Berlin er Leipzig GERMANY am Main Dimitroffstrasse nstrasse ind nW ühle . and Weimar 225 Leipzig t er-S ach hum t-Sc Kur 1 0 0 100 meters 0. Alte Waage Marktplatz ssg ässch. Gerberst r. tmbold Hu Hauptbahnhof 2 Tröndlinring RichardWagnerPlatz Richard-Wagner-Strasse Brühl Sachsenplatz 3 4 Ric erd ele rrin g ha rd- Gr. Leipzig.Chapter 14: Dresden. Ritterstr asse 5 asse Hain str.1 mile N Parthenstrasse Uferstrasse strasse Nordstrasse Pfaffendorfer strasse Information Railway i r. m str Frankfurt Bee t h o v e Munich ATTRACTIONS Bach-Museum 8 Grasssi Museum 16 Museum der Bildenden Künste 3 Museum für Kunsthandwerk 14 Museum für Völkerkunde 11 Museum in der Runden Ecke 5 MusikinstrumentenMuseum 10 Nikolaikirche 15 Thomaskirche 9 Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig 13 .L u t h Neues Opernhaus Petersstrasse Burgstrass Sch Johannisplatz uls tra e sse Neues Gewandhaus 16 idts tras se . z-Str h n it Tauc er- Gr Nü ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Fürstenhof 2 Leipzig Marriott Hotel 4 The Westin Leipzig 1 DINING Apels Garten 6 Auerbachs Keller 12 Paulaner Palais 7 Di ttr ich rin g Mart i n . ün ew al d s rnb erg . Alte Börse Markt 7 Naschmarkt Altes 15 Rathaus Gr as im maische S om 8 Th sse tr asse ga 11 12 13 9 KönigsMädler10 haus passag Klosterg. Fleischer g ass Reichsstrasse Nikolaistrasse WillyBrandtPlatz Wa gn erStr ass e i Brü hl Go e Goet hestr Barfu 6 e itätsstr.

The lobby will be reconfigured and all the rooms freshened up in 2007 (the hotel’s tenth anniversary). See map p.m. www. but that’s the point. 04105 Leipzig. the public transit authority. is a major plus. www. and the breakfast buffet is great. Richard-WagnerStrasse 1 (% 0341/710-4260. Getting around Leipzig If you arrive by train for a daytrip.m. 225. and bus network. to 4 p. % 800-426-3135 in the U. DC. Leipzig is the site of huge trade fairs that bring in tens of thousands of visitors. Staying in Leipzig Twice a year. Hotel Fürstenhof $$$$ City Center Housed in a historic 18th-century building. helpful service here is a real recommendation. for 12€ ($15).leipzig. Saturday 9 a.m. this hotel has 92 rooms redecorated to reflect the original neoclassical to 2 p. reliable choice for leisure or business travelers (it tends to attract more business travelers because of the array of amenities and executive-level services it offers).com. AE. Fares are based on zones. or 0341/1400. runs the city’s tram.lvb.m. An on-site health club has a pool and a sauna. you can easily walk from the train station to all the attractions in the Altstadt (Old Town). and Sunday 9 a. MC. If you travel to Leipzig during those periods. usually the first week in September and the second week in March. to 6 p. SBahn (surface trains) The commentary is in German only.226 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding information and taking a tour Pick up a city map at the tourist information office. LVB (% 0172/1000000. the location. . The friendly. Rooms are comfortable and good-sized (with beds that beat the Westin’s for comfort).S. Leipzig Marriott Hotel $ –$$$ City Center Fans of Marriott hotels won’t find any surprises in this one. The rejuvenated bathrooms are nicely done and have a combination tub and shower. Fax: 0341/140-3700.arabellasheraton.m. within easy walking distance of the train station and just across from the new museum of fine arts. You can purchase tickets from automated machines at the stops. Rates: 265€– 300€ ($331–$375) double. V. open Monday through Friday from 9 a. An Einzelfahrkarte (single ticket) in “Zone Leipzig” costs 1.60€ ($2). www.m. The tourist office offers a 90-minute city-sightseeing tour daily at 11 a. Tram: 15.. You can also book a hotel room here and purchase tickets for concerts and sightseeing tours. and the bathrooms all have tub/shower combinations. Tröndlinring 8. The Leipzig Marriott is a good. booking your room in advance is essential.

Zwickauer Str.-Liebknecht-/ Deutsche Bücherei 2 . An der Märchenwiese 6 . Lortzinge M G. S3 Rödelstr. Wielandstr. Ossietzky-/ a tr. m e e n S Strbf. O kt . chb uer ee er A der S-Bf. ha Str. Mockau.Jo pl r. Rathaus Str rn S tr Apelstr. r z e F L 11 lit rk est Markkleeberg-West ö e D l w m e 12 r k u 9 se Se in pe as 13 hw tr. Völkerschlachtdenkmal R. Paunsdorfer Allee/ Fr. e e e e t h r a K. lat hn Str. . Strbf. str Theresienstr. Lützowstr. ritz rü ilti Wilh. Chapter 14: Dresden.-Hupfeld-Str. 2 An Sc uer Sc Südfriedhof 3 Mathildenstr. Paunsdorf.-Liebknecht-Platz e Pfingstweide Gorkistr. Sommerfeld tö ne -Eis . . Marschner-C tze lsru M it z na r Stö aue est aus str..-H Str.-Heine-/ le e Roßplatz Riebeck/ str. . vd ew isbahnhof h rk Lin A EdlichPlo Ki Am Sc Pa Grü Saa nn tsw nit str str. V l l l k k k 16 rk ut M a a Borna To S1 M 18 Kn 227 Leipzig S-Bahn . Chauseehaus Str.Liebermann-Str. Ahornstr. 12 1 Südplatz Stieglitzstr. Paunsdorf-Nord Paunsdorf-Nord Südstr. Bahnhof 15 ee ee O . Mockauer/Volbedingstr. Wiebelstr. L cke bein enb NordS-B ied Stallbaumstr. Hornbach Baumarkt e el Freiligrathstr. B W R K St L -B Bayrischer S . resl eiß ath olm ötte . Connewitz s 5 Wildpark Klemmur. Diakonissenhaus s . ke cher er t Str. Marienbrunn c Prager/Russenstr.Westplatz ten er Breite Str. t n i t i b Landsberger/M.-Schumann-/ Möchern Hist. r r . Böhlitz-Ehrenberg Heisenbergstr.A. Taucha s 12 n 14 Taucha ck 9 r e e a d Gohlislle m Beyerleinstr.-Schmidt-Str. T. ns r Moritz-Hof 7 tte r ze tr. Coppiplatz Eutritzscher Zentrum 7 Friedrichshafner Str. Körnerstr.-HoffmannK. eg z.-Schumann-/ Wilheminenstr. G Fe No str r A her Riebeck-/Oststr. ke z . Volbedingstr. Kirche a el di elw hen er h ud tr. t Meusdorf Parkstr.-Schwarz-/ n u he H s c H r ba Se Fr. u r s r platz S-Bf.-Liebknecht-/ S-Bf.-Lampel-Str. ns G. 10 Eutritzscher Markt 11 Portitzer Allee Döringstr. k zs or str eri 10 oß nd Ring ed ine i Gr Wi r. Wahren Heiterblick. Coppistr.. .Waldplatz Sportforum Leibnizstr.-Schwarz-/L. E s r Hauptl v Str. Dessauer Str. h c c s ns 2 15 10 16 ho f 9 a e c Bahnhof Markkleeberg. R r i o H tt D tz K u sd R. en ue Ostplatz St ö tte r S r. tr. Markranstäder Str. t Leuschner f f Stötteritzer Clara-Zetkin-Park B ü S Witzgallstr.-Reis-Str. S-Bf.-Segerr. hk tzs ah tsc aetz Delitzscher/Essener Str. O. G ee Bf. bahnhof m ist erts ieb L..-Jahn-Str. Anger-Crottendorf S lle sst ena e-/ tr.A ll f. r S Str. s u z ö Permoserstr. Barnecker Str. ch ud ler ha atz S-Bf. r a t a schlößchen a S m st l 8 15 Zoo 7 8 18 au rb Am Vorwerk -P -St tr. and Weimar Wiederitzsch-Mitte Neue Messe Messegelände 16 GeorgDachauer Str. e r r r r n n ll z ls te r tte Neues Rathaus He erse rit tr. Hamburger Schönefeld.14 K. b M t s i a ö l . P -Platz S-B S-B Str. hk Mod Hän str. Wittenberger Str. str. Hermelinstr. Forstweg e LindenG. ue r. Karolusstr. R b K. Leipzig. Paunsdorf Borsdorf S-Bf. Sommerfeld Rathaus Leutzsch r S platz W t Am Mückenn nn n S-Bf. Stu höna to Connewitz. yg L. S-Bf. Schönefeld. Permoser/Torgauer c G. Elster-Passage S1 S Johannisallee Holbeinstr. Hu Dantestr.-Eisner Str. u ta t Gohlis. p r Paunsdorf-Center f Volksgarten Wilh. . f Merseburger Str. Landsberger Str. R . ar eg Eutritzsch. Hohentichelnstr. ke erh sstr ims euss ras Miltitz f e l L L g l F t o . . Sc Fre Al Lü Sta St Viertelsweg P Sc Pittlerstr.-Lehmann-/ ch Naunhofer Str. Teslastr. Hermelinstr. Ka Al zn lagw . Meu Str. G tz a ner A n Nord z itz z . Annaberger Str. Kreuz hw Str Völkerschlachtdenkmal pl. eis tr. 4 3 18 dt rm Herwegh-Str.-NA. 1 n ie ar . thaler Str. K. 4 S-Bahn Prager/Riebeck Str. Ku Zs Wiedebach. zs Menckestr. .-Hoffmann-/ Ad nn er-/ nnße se er r A atze bo y a r s l e e La per u e i .-Lehmann-Str. u i Lößnig H he 8 w S tr. Engelsdorf S3 eri Re Köh Goerdelerring Augustus. Ar t Roseggerstr.-Lehmann-Str. Thomaskirche . r c fm Trams rf ka zm /G m tz M st ar er/R s K o e a a a e z . ma Ost Th. . Virchow-/ Mosenthinstr. Industriegelände West rs z a e t ch e S3 Hauptt . .nze Curschmannstr. Gohlis S-Bf. Pfeffingerstr. h t Ku str. g i r f t n t R. Krankenhaus Thekla Bis er W . tr. tzs gelKoburger Brücke 4 Hildebrandstr. Post Taucha. e le ue K. H. Probstheida Triftweg S-Bf. tr.-Eisner-/ S1 Altes Messegelände A. r Raschwitz Forsthaus Markleeberg. en diu Lind iet urg Heinßers t r n e i r t n a r e e r Gutenbergplatz n S n . Leutzsch Bautzner Str. Platz S-B Hohe Str. er / M f. St st rst lle lst Str -St ge An den Tierkliniken us ta A. W lip c s i h E 11 14 ow Sc rg g m h r 3 A irc be be st Großstädteln. d u Gottschallc h s e m o m e ic ir h 1 S. Mockau.-Körner-Str. lle Str erg Ri Ein Saturnstr. G t .Bar Merseburger aue rbrü Bf. ö K Na tr. a i e Kir ön al nau rlän Lindenau de ng To Wurzen Jupiterstr.

with its painted ceiling. % 800-327-0200 in the U. www. V. % 800/426-3135 in the U. Gerberstrasse 15. MC. Fax: 0341/965-3999. such as . MC. AE. Although more robust than refined. AE. 04109 Leipzig. The Westin Leipzig $$$ –$$$$ City Center One of the city’s tallest buildings. 11.m. 8. Main courses: 7. See map p. % 0341/960-7777. The hotel is a convenient five-minute walk from the train station.westin. This full-service hotel contains a health club. AE.m. or 0341/96530. Rates: 99€–164€ ($124–$205) double. Open: Mon– Sat 11:30 a. 6. Auerbachs Keller $ –$$ SAXON/INTERNATIONAL A group of sculpted bronze characters from Goethe’s play Faust adorns the staircase leading down to this famous medieval cellar restaurant where Goethe had Faust debate Mephistopheles. V. contemporary style.228 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. 225. Kolonnadenstrasse 2. Dining in Leipzig More restaurants are opening in Leipzig all the time. and within easy walking distance of all the sights in the Altstadt. Tram: Fax: 0341/988-1229. Apels Garten $ –$$ GERMAN/SAXON This restaurant. 10. and pork steaks. or 13. DC. Rates: 145€–235€ ($181–$294) double. 225.S. It was an Inter-Continental hotel until 2003. The restaurant Brühl serves traditional German food. in a quiet Leipzig neighborhood close to the Altstadt. when Westin took over and began redecorating the 447 rooms in a sleek. www. The menu features regional cuisine of Saxony. 225. or 0341/9880. Regional cooking favors hearty portions and simple. the 27-story Westin reflects the Leipzig of today.S. DC. but the old ones are comfortably furnished and have good-sized bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. and Canada. and sauna. to midnight.50€–16€ ($10–$20). Tram: 4. See map p. while Yamato is one of the best places in Leipzig for Japanese food. but this city is not particularly well known for its culinary scene. Reservations recommended. 04105 roast duck with arugula. the cuisine is good. is known for its home-style German food. Not all rooms have been upgraded (the new ones are on the highest floors). and one of its finest modern hotels. Sun 10 a. Rates include breakfast buffet. Guests have a choice of the Historic Rooms (dinner only) or the Big Room (lunch and dinner). Am Hallischen Tor 1. The décor is nostalgically oldfashioned.–3:30 p. The restaurant is named after one of the old pleasure gardens that used to adorn Leipzig. You can dine out on the porch in warm weather. Tram: 4 or 6. filling ingredients.m. Specialties include Saxon potato soup with wurst. pool. and has room service. MC.

Leipzig. the city’s best-known square. a small. Renaissance Altes Rathaus. along with a selection of international dishes. but you can also get Saxon Sauerbraten. The menu emphasizes boiled meats such as Tafelspitz (beef) with heavy sauces. See map p. Remnants of old Leipzig have been reconstructed around the Markt. to midnight. where demonstrators for democracy gathered in 1989. Paulaner Palais $ GERMAN/BAVARIAN/AUSTRIAN This large. Reconstructed on the north side of the square is the step-gabled Renaissance Alte Waage (Old Weighing House). Thomas Church). with curving stairs and stucco garlands above the windows. Kids enjoy the underground atmosphere and usually can find something on the menu to their liking. 225. AE. To the south of Marktplatz is the Mädlerpassage. Grimmaischestrasse 2–4. to midnight. The city has placed more of an emphasis on constructing the new than on restoring the old. V. home of Auerbachs Keller (see “Dining in Leipzig” earlier in this chapter). MC. AE. once used by the rulers of Saxony as a royal guesthouse. gabled.m. The Universität Leipzig (Leipzig University) occupies the area south of Grimmaisch-Strasse. Reservations recommended. Reservations recommended for dinner in Historic Rooms. housed in an 18th-century rococo building. DC. on the south side of the square. popular restaurant. where Bach served as choirmaster for 27 years. 225. the Alte Börse was the first baroque building in Leipzig. % 0341/216-100. or Rostbratwurst (roasted sausages) from Nuremberg.) In the neighboring Naschmarkt. Open: Historic Rooms Mon–Sat 6 p. Main courses: 8€–19€ ($10–$24). MC. Across from this house. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). Just east of the Marktplatz is the 12thcentury Nikolaikirche (St.Chapter 14: Dresden.m.000-year-old Thomaskirche (St. V. behind a statue of Goethe as a student. Open: Daily 11 a. is the Königshaus (King’s House). a famous arcade of shops and restaurants.m. and Weimar 229 warmes Bratenneckchen (roasted pork on brown bread with a pepper dip). Exploring Leipzig Bombing in 1943 destroyed about one-quarter of Leipzig. Weisswurst (steamed pork sausage) from Munich. The summer courtyard within the building is the nicest place to dine. Most of the old and the new Leipzig that has appeal for visitors is concentrated in the Zentrum (City Center). to midnight. The only beer they serve is the Munich-brewed Paulaner Bier. completed in 1687. Nicholas Church). Tram: 4 or 6. easily walked area south of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Mädlerpassage. Tram: 4 or 6. Klostergasse 3–5. Big Room daily 11:30 a. A short walk leads to the pastel baroque houses along Katharinenstrasse and the Brühl. See map p. On the east side of the square is the long. . each offering the same menu. has a restaurant and a more casual pub section. (Peter the Great of Russia and Napoleon also stayed there. stands the yellow-and-white Alte Börse (Old Produce Exchange). % 0341/211-3115. To the west rises the high-pitched roof of the 1.

% 0341/222-9100) displays an array of handmade objects from the Middle Ages up to the early 20th century.–5 p. Bach wrote more than 200 cantatas. on Johannis-Platz just east of the Zentrum. Bach’s. Bach-Museum This reconstructed house standing in the shadow of the Thomaskirche once was home to the Bose family.230 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bach in Leipzig The composer Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750) is Leipzig’s most famous citizen. and stayed for the rest of his you’ll be tempted to linger. % 0341/964-4133. See map p. After years of restoration. You can see everything in this small museum in about half an hour. houses Leipzig’s arts and crafts. www.m. In Leipzig.m. friends of J. and Wilhelm Friedemann. including scores and letters. Grassi Museum Completed in 1929. ߜ The Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum of Ethnography. Carl Philipp Emanuel. the Grassi Museum.m. during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche and other venues around town. www. serves as the cultural heart of modern Leipzig.bach-leipzig. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. also became composers. Three of his sons. Look for the extremely rare. the Passion According to St. Every May. Thomaskirchhof 16. The house now contains the largest Bach archive in Germany. Sun 11 a. Tram: 21. if you love Bach. Many mementos of the composer.m.50) family ticket. Sat 2 p. % 0341/ 973-1900) displays highlights from the permanent collection of . Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (% 0341/913-7333. He came to Leipzig at the age of 38 to be choirmaster and director of the Thomaskirche’s boys’ choir and director of music at Leipzig University. An excellent audio guide in English is included in the price of jointed doll dating from 1526. and 3 p. porcelain. the three museums in the Grassi complex are scheduled to reopen in 2007.bach-leipzig. You find beautiful examples of furniture. ߜ The Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Applied Arts Museum. and glassware. Johann Christian. ethnography. are on display. and the Mass in B Minor.m. to the east of the Nikolaikirche and the university. Tours: Fri 3 p. S. Bach was the father of no fewer than 17 children (4 by his first wife. Open: Daily 10 a. Matthew. the Neues Gewandhaus concert hall stands on the south. 225. The immense and not very attractive new opera house occupies the north side of the square. and musical instruments collections. 6€ ($7. 13 with his second).. Augustus-Platz.m.

Allow at least an hour just to stroll through. mdbk. % 0341/973-0750). European art of the 15th and 16th demonstrators gathered with candles and began the peaceful revolution that toppled the . Bus: 8. 3. de. but be aware that none of the exhibits are translated into English. Leipzig. Caspar David Friedrich). 2. Museum in der Runden Ecke (Stasi Museum) This chillingly fascinating museum is housed in the building that once was the headquarters of the dreaded Stasi (short for Staatssicherheit.m. free on second Sun of the month. See map p.grassimuseum.). 225. and Weimar 231 cultural artifacts relating to the peoples of the world. See map p. www. one of Germany’s most important art collections reopened in a new $ 100-million glass-and-steel. See map p. Tram: 21. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m. (Wed noon to 8 p. ߜ The Museum für Musikinstrumente (Musical Instruments Museum. Tram: 1. Dittrichring 24. Johannisplatz 5–11. % 0341/21-69-90. or “state security”). Tram: 3. neoclassical interior. You may want to spend a few minutes here. exhibits Italian. German. An exhibition called “The Power and Banality of the East German Secret Police” documents the meticulous and paranoid methods by which Stasi agents monitored every exchange of information in East Germany. 61 years to the day after its original home was destroyed by a bomb in WWII. and contemporary works. or 24.50) children and students. Open: Daily 10 a.m. 225. Admission: 5€ ($6. The museum is open late on Thursday (until 8 p. www. the East German Ministry for State Security. confiscating private letters and listening in on phone conversations.runde-ecke-leipzig.25) adults.50€ ($4. On this site in 225. 17. 4.–6 p. Founded in 1837. Admission: Free. Nikolaikirche (St. 21. Nicholas Church) The present church was built in the 16th century and has a white. www. you may find you’re the only person there. On the nights of December 4 and 5. 6. Leipzig’s Museum of Fine Arts is especially strong in German painting of the 19th century (including works by that quintessential Romantic. 10€ ($13) family ticket. cube-shaped building on Sachsenplatz. Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) In late 2005.m. Admission: Combined ticket for 2 museums 5€ ($6.m. % 0341/961-2443.25) adults.–6 p. a group of 10. Open: Tues and Thurs–Sun 10 a. Katharinenstrasse 101 (on Sachsenplatz). 1989.m.–6 p. considered one of the best of its kind in the world.Chapter 14: Dresden. The new building is a serenely handsome affair that hasn’t quite caught on with the public yet.m. and French musical instruments of the 16th to the 19th centuries. local citizens took a giant step toward toppling the government of East Germany when they seized this building. but it also displays Dutch and Flemish art of the 17th century (including a lively Frans Hals).). A nice little cafe is located on the premises (open the same hours as the museum). 15.

225.m.m. East Germany’s Communist government. See map p.. and close at 10 p. Open: Tues–Fri 9 a. His body was moved here in 1950 on the 200th anniversary of his death and reburied in front of the altar. When it isn’t touring.m. what life was like in Communist East Germany. meats. Leipzig’s Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) recently was transformed into a giant shopping mall.m. the choir presents concerts every Sunday morning and Friday evening. Nikolaikirchhof. 4.” the exhibit may help you better understand contemporary German history. Admission: Free.–6 p. cheeses. The movement started as a prayer group in the Nikolaikirche in 1982. lined with chic. the church’s famous boys’ choir. or 8. Its high-pitched roof dates from 1496. plants. % 0341/22200. 10. expensive boutiques. Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a tradition dating back to . Sat–Sun 10 a. The Naschmarkt. and a bit of everything. 6.–6 p.m. 225. Thomas Church) Leipzig’s most famous resident.m. Tram: 4.–6 p. Both Mozart and Mendelssohn also performed in the Thomaskirche.232 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany GDR. 15. or 20. Admission: Free. The church was built on the site of a 13thcentury monastery and was heavily restored after WWII and again after reunification.m. Shopping in Leipzig Exploring the handsomely restored Art Nouveau Arkaden (arcades) that thread through the historic core of Leipzig is fun. and the events that triggered the fall of the GDR. Described as a place of “living remembrance. audio. first organized in the 13th century. and Richard Wagner was christened here in 1813.m. Set up chronologically. See map p. Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) I recommend that anyone traveling to Leipzig visit this free multimedia exhibition. Open: Daily 9 a. and memorabilia to guide you through the tumultuous last half-century in eastern Germany. 6. Give yourself at least an hour. Johann Sebastian Bach. documents. open Monday through Saturday. 225. on weekdays and 4 p. Tram: 4. Thomaskirchhof 18 (just off Marktplatz). 8. % 0341/960-2855. Open: Daily 8 a. 6. the exhibit uses photos. centrally located outdoor market that sells vegetables.m. Admission: Free. Thomaskirche (St.m. or 13. with about 140 shops and cafes that open between 6:30 and 9 a. 11. Bach wrote his great cantatas for the Thomanerchor. Grimmaische Strasse 6. % 0341/960-5270. Mädlerpassage is Leipzig’s finest arcade.m. Tram: 2. sophisticated. on Saturday. newsreels. See map p. Open daily in December in front of the Altes Rathaus. was choirmaster in this church from 1723 until his death 27 years later. is a lively.–5 p.

Tram: 4 or 6). Special organ concerts and performances of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and Handel’s Messiah also take place. Mendelssohn. the orchestra premiered works by Beethoven. is the home of the world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra. or spent portions of their creative lives here. just south of the Altes Rathaus. Attending a concert by this great orchestra is a special treat. Founded in 1781. gewandhaus. because the German national assembly met here in 1919 to draw up the constitution for the ill-fated Weimar Republic. which honors Goethe and the Faust legend. a 1. Discovering nightlife in Leipzig Leipzig’s active nightlife offers something for everyone. and other entertainment options. The town is well known to architecture buffs. Schubert. Mephisto Bar. 5. 5. http://oper-leipzig. Leipzig. Augustusplatz (% 0341/ great for people-watching. writers. Goethe. Mädlerpassage (% 0341/216-100. Tram: 4. Its home is the Opernhaus. 2. from opera and classical concerts to late-night bars and discos.m. Weimar also is famous in the history of Germany.m.000-year-old town that once was a center of the German Enlightenment. Germany’s first democratic government after World War I (WWI). 13.) sell a variety of craft items and Christmas food and drink. opposite the Neues Gewandhaus.Chapter 14: Dresden. Augustusplatz 8 (% 0341/ 126-1261. and Weimar 233 1767. 13. Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment Beautiful Weimar (vie-mar). is the hippest bar and cafe in Leipzig. is one of Germany’s greatest cultural shrines.–8 p. Ticket prices for opera and ballet range from 9€ to 60€ ($11–$75).de. 21. Leipzig’s main theater. or 24). The area around the Markt is full of bars. and Brahms. considered Germany’s greatest literary genius. walk down Barfüssergässchen. 12. Bosestrasse 1 (% 0341/ 12680. lived and worked in Weimar for 50 years. or 15). a concert hall built in 1981. Tram: 4. cafes. Some of the country’s most revered painters. The Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera) is one of Germany’s most acclaimed opera companies. Stalls (open daily 10 a. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 45€ ($13–$56). or 15). 6. www. because the first Bauhaus School of Art and Design was founded . Live music is performed Thursday through Saturday. 12. the Schauspielhaus. For a sampling of lively cafes. 4. and composers made their homes in this small Thuringian town on the River Ilm. The Neues Gewandhaus. Tram: 1. 17. beginning around 8 p.m. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 30€ ($12–$37). 15. is home to several arts companies that stage a mix of theatrical and musical productions in German.

call % 11861 or visit the Deutsche Bahn Web site (www. or the A9 Autobahn between Berlin and Munich.. Finding information and taking a tour Tourist-Information am Markt. and 2 p. and 215km (134 miles) southwest of Dresden.50) for adults. the local entertainment listings magazine.234 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany here in 1919. Buy tickets at the tourist office. The tourist office offers a two-hour walking tour (in German) of Weimar daily at 10 a. Fast InterCity Express (ICE) trains run from Frankfurt. Takt. Weimar is an easy daytrip from Leipzig or Dresden. de). and Weimar is a stop on the InterRegio express train between Frankfurt and Berlin. Markt 10 (% 03643/7450. Good train connections to Weimar’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) are available from anywhere in Germany. Staying in Weimar Since reunification. Unlike Dresden and Leipzig. you may want to spend the night. children younger than 14 free. By car. you can reach Weimar via the A4 Autobahn linking Frankfurt and Dresden. Tolstoy. but because Weimar offers plenty to see. 118km (74 miles) southwest of Leipzig.m.m. Weimar is a joy to explore. www. hides a stylishly .m.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. the Nazis established the concentration camp Buchenwald on the outskirts of this city. Getting there Weimar lies 262km (162 miles) southwest of Berlin. fronting Weimar’s picturesque marketplace. Leipzig. new hotels have opened throughout For rail information and schedules. turning off at Hermsdorfer Kreuz for Weimar. often in historic buildings. Enough of old Weimar remains to give you a good sense of what the town was like when Goethe lived there. and Dresden. 4€ ($5) for students. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$$ –$$$$ City Center The Hotel Elephant is Weimar’s most famous hotel. to 3 p. the price is 6€ ($7. Weimar was not completely destroyed by bombs in WWII.m. even Hitler.m. The tourist offices listed earlier under “Finding information and taking a tour” also can help you find a hotel room or pension.bahn. The meeting point is the tourist information office. The elegant late-17th-century facade. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. to 6 p. in the town’s central marketplace. During WWII. with a past guest roster that includes Bach.weimar. in part because its old winding streets are sprinkled with the homes (now museums) of famous figures. is available free.

2 Erf urt er Str ass Nationaltheater e 3 Theater. Peter und Paul HerderEisfeld sse lKege e c rü B k asse Eng els Ri Leibn izalle e Sch il r a s se Puschk Stub enst rass 9 Pl. Leipzig. mb Hu r. Breitsc heidstr. 8 8 Demokratie or n Am H instr. tst old Ama nech t ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Hotel Kaiserin Augusta 1 DINING Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Zum Schwarzen Bären 7 Haus k rastr Coud Fr. Be lv e R. Information i ATTRACTIONS Bauhaus-Museum 3 Goethes Gartenhaus 10 Goethes Wohnhaus & Goethe Nationalmuseum 9 Liszt-Haus 11 Schillers Wohnhaus 6 Schloss Belvedere 12 Schlossmuseum 2 Weimar Haus– Das Geschichtserlebnis 4 Wittumspalais 5 de A rer e lle .Chapter 14: Dresden. To Train Station 1 0 0 1/10 mile 100 meters Jakobstraß e knech tstrass e N s aer Str a s Jen K. d.- Goetheplatz Graben Karlstra Stadtkirche St. and Weimar 235 Weimar F. e 10 ng Bauhaus Universität Weimar 11 PARK K A R AN D E R ILM str.4 Deutsches platz 5 M ar le rst 6 LucasRathaus i Markt CranachHaus 7 se k t stras Sc h Burgplatz Stern Brück e Ilm l os Sch ube rtstr asse Ilm Acker-w Ma rien trass e and Corona-Schroter Str. 12 Berlin GERMANY Weimar liens CEMETERY Goethe-Schiller Mausoleum Str.-F W rell ag igra ne th str. rg as se Brüh l WEIMARHALLENPARK To Buchenwald Frieden str. Lieb Schwa nseestr Rollplatz asse Johannis kirche e e-stras se H -He i n platz s -g .

Reservations recommended. Am Markt 19. however. try local specialties such as sweet-and-sour Thuringian pot roast with dumplings or Thuringian-style grilled bratwurst on sauerkraut with puréed but they are fully equipped. See map p. Elephantenkeller Thurs–Tues noon to 3 a. . www. Am Markt 19. V. 99423 Weimar. or 71. % 03643/8020. AE.. among the best in the region. Open: Anna Amalia daily 6:30–10:30 p. % 03643/2340. Bathrooms are large. Dining in Weimar As with Leipzig. moderately priced hotel sits right across the street from the train station. 235. 235. with pearwood furniture and Art Deco styling. V. comfortable. this restaurant serves specialty onion salads. Down one flight of steps is the historic Elephantenkeller (Elephant Cellar). 235. Bus: 10. DC.236 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany contemporary interior. Weimar is not a city renowned for its culinary past. MC. Bathrooms are small and have showers only.m. Rates include buffet breakfast. www.hotel-kaiserin-augusta. Otherwise. Elephantenkeller 6€–16€ ($7–$20). % 03643/802-639. MC. convenient. DC. MC. most have a tub/shower combination. when Weimar’s famous Zwiebelmarkt (onion market) is open (a tradition dating back to 1653). Its Italian dishes. In October. and very well maintained. Fax: 03643/234444. Since reunification. and the buffet breakfast is good. and good service. a place for casual dining in a rustic atmosphere. See map p. 11.m. The staff can arrange baby-sitting.m. arabellasheraton. Fax: 03643/802-610. The staff is friendly. Bus: 10. and 6–11 p. Rates: 77€–139€ ($96–$174) double. Carl-August-Allee 17. some new restaurants with savvier cooking and better ingredients have opened. AE. The 134 rooms are not large or luxurious. Rates: 169€–235€ ($211–$293) double. Anna Amalia is modern and airy. make use of local produce and ingredients. a dress-up sort of place with beautifully set tables. Breakfast costs an additional 18€ ($ 22). Hotel Kaiserin Augusta $ –$$ City Center This good. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$ –$$$ GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Weimar’s oldest hotel has two restaurants. or 71. See map p. a garden terrace. V. Main courses: Anna Amalia 16€–26($20–$32). The 99 rooms come in different sizes but are furnished basically the same. 99423 Weimar.

and Weimar 237 Goethe and the court of Weimar In 1775. set the tone for the salons. In Weimar. and pork medallions with Gorgonzola sauce. 3. and toys collected by the school’s director. entertaining people. which brought a new. to midnight. all of which you can easily see on foot.50€ ($5. Bauhaus-Museum The focus of this museum is the Bauhaus movement. MC. Open: Daily 11 a.–6 p. architectural drawings. this restaurant is Weimar’s oldest. which was founded in Weimar in 1919 and sought to unify arts and crafts within the context of architecture. the work for which he is most famous. The museum is fairly compact. Goethe’s fame rested on the novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. hefty meal for a reasonable cost. Surrounding the Altstadt is the newer Weimar. % 03643/564-161. 11. suicidal artist. wanted to surround himself with clever. One room showcases the work of Henry van de Velde.m. remains the lively heart of the old city. with broad. rumpsteak.Chapter 14: Dresden.50) seniors and students. See map p. Goethe wrote the play Faust. Admission: 4. Theaterplatz.” Thanks to Goethe and his friends. Main courses: 7€–15€ ($9–$19). His mother. Open: Daily 10 a. Zum Schwarzen Bären $ THURINGIAN Located next door to the Hotel Elephant. Leipzig. Dishes include potato soup with sausage. 5. furniture. 235. 235. tea sets. the little duchy of Weimar gained renown as a center of the German Enlightenment (Erklärung). 6. V. or 7. Bus: 1. with its large park. Goethe’s patron. The Altstadt (Old City). has many historic sights. or 71. % 03643/853-847. an important architect-designer of Art Nouveau. which had become a sensation throughout Europe for its depiction of a suffering. so you can see everything in about half an hour. set against the backdrop of the Ettersberg and Vogtland hills. The collection of Bauhaus memorabilia includes rugs. which were referred to as the “Court of the Muses.50€ ($4.m. but you can get a good. schnitzel with potatoes. the architect Walter Gropius. particularly the playwright Friedrich Schiller. treelined boulevards and many 19th-century buildings. the town’s main square. Markt. Duchess Anna Amalia. Markt 20. Nothing is fancy about it.m. Exploring Weimar Weimar enjoys a scenic location on the Ilm River. .50) adults. 3. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832) was invited to the duchy of Weimar by the teenaged Duke Karl August. Duke Karl. See map p. classically inspired rationalism to German art and literature. Bus: 10. 2.

from 1802 to 1805. the Hungarian composer and most famous pianist of the 19th century. Admission: House and museum 6. Frauenplan 1.50€ ($4. % 03643/545-320. located in the bucolic park on the Ilm River. He lived with his family in this house. Tours (in German): Tues and Fri at 1 p.50) students and children younger than 12. In the museum.m. Open: House and museum daily 9 a. his study a soothing green.m. 2. Open: Daily 10 a. or 8. Im Park an der Ilm.50€ ($3). some of them pretty much as Goethe and his wife. Christiane. 6. was Goethe’s first residence when he came to Weimar in 1775 as a guest of Duke Karl August. Admission: 2. longer if you’re a Goethe fan. Open: Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. or 12. Displayed in the redcarpeted salon are one of Liszt’s pianos and the portable clavichord he used to exercise his fingers while he was traveling. Bus: 1.–6 p. See map p. You need about half an hour to see everything.m. or 12. When Goethe returned from Italy. See map p.50€ ($3) students and children. Throughout his life. The structure was built as a garden house in the 16th century. Letters and other personal and musical mementos also are on view.–6 p. enlarged in the 17th century. but the museum requires a separate admission. and reconstructed in 1996 according to the plans of 1820. in less than 15 minutes. % 03643/545-388.40) adults.–6 p.m.m. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe House) and Goethe Nationalmuseum The large baroque house where Goethe lived from 1782 to 1832 is Weimar’s most popular attraction. Bus: 1. located just up the street from Goethe’s house. Liszt-Haus Franz Liszt. which has a few pieces of period furniture. Liszt gathered young musicians around him in the high-ceilinged. you find more Goethe memorabilia. handsomely furnished rooms. You can see the interior. The house is . See map p. filled the house with casts of ancient busts and statues. an audio guide in English is available. The house is part of the adjoined Goethe National Museum. Bus: 1. 10. 235. Goethe had his dining room painted a sunny yellow. Believing that colors affect mood. 235.25) students and seniors.m. Goethe died in his sparsely furnished bedchamber on March 22. Goethe used the house as a summer retreat. overflowing with enthusiasm for all things Italian. 2. when he was 82 years old.50€ ($8) adults.50€ ($3) adults. and designed special cabinets to display his Italian majolica plates. Admission: 3. Schillers Wohnhaus (Schiller House) After his friend Goethe. 2. 5€ ($6. The house has 14 rooms. 235.m.238 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Goethes Gartenhaus (Goethe’s Garden House) This simple stone cottage with a high-pitched roof. Marienstrasse 17. left them. 1832. 2€ ($2. 5.. and his reception room a calming blue. spent the last period of his life in this house located at the west entrance of Park an der Ilm. he replaced the baroque staircase with broad stairs in the style of the Italian Renaissance. Friedrich von Schiller (1759–1805) is the greatest name in German literature. 10. % 03643/545-375.

4. Belvederer Allee.25) adults. students. See map p.50€ ($3. theater sets.50€ ($7) seniors.m. 1€ ($1. Orangerie 2€ ($2. 2. 6. 3. Flemish and Italian paintings. begun in 1789 and completed in 1803.m. 3€ ($3.–4 p. % 03643/546-162. % 03643/545-350. Bus: 1. Goethe.. 235.50€ ($4.–6 p. Tours (in German): Mon 1 p.. 6. Wax figures created by artists who worked for London’s Madame Tussaud. Give yourself about 45 minutes to wander through the galleries. Schiller wrote his last works. Of more general interest are the painting galleries containing important works by Lucas Cranach the Elder (including a portrait of Martin Luther).m. and other famous names associated with Weimar.–4 p.75) children. through the time of Goethe. and Weimar 239 furnished as it would have been in Schiller’s day.m. audio guides in English are available. Open: Daily. Admission: Palace 4€ ($5) adults. 3. Leipzig.50€ ($3).m. Nov–Mar 10 a. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. 235.m. Schillerstrasse 16–18.C. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. and expressionist paintings by Max Beckmann and Max Lieberman. Admission: 3. 2. Schlossmuseum (Castle Museum) This neoclassical structure. You can wander through the entire house in about 15 minutes. 5.Chapter 14: Dresden.–6 p. baroque château located 3km (2 miles) south of Weimar. 2. The museum has a series of galleries dedicated to Schiller.50€ ($8) adults. The English-style park was laid out between 1814 and 1840. 7. 235.m. 5.25) students. Bus: 12. % 03643/901-890. Schillerstrasse 12. See map p. See map p. and children.. Luther. In the attic rooms. Weimar Haus–Das Geschichtserlebnis (Weimar House–The Weimar Story) This multimedia attraction provides a basic introduction to Weimar’s history.–7 p. 8. Open: Palace Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. Open: Wed–Mon Apr–Oct 9 a. You can visit both in about two hours.–4 p..m.50) adults. 1. 5. including Wilhelm Tell (William Tell). Bus: 1. Nov–Mar 9 a. 4€ ($6) children. The orangerie displays a collection of historical coaches. 235.m. .m. Schloss Belvedere (Belvedere Palace) A pretty. Orangerie Jan–Apr Wed–Sun 11 a. Inside the château.50) adults. See map p. and videotaped projections help tell Weimar’s story from the earliest settlers in 3.m. winter 10 a. replaced the royal castle that burned down in 1774.m.–6 p. and Napoleon. 5. or 8. % 03643/546-160. Burgplatz 4. 2. Bus: 1.m. Admission: 5€ ($6. you find a collection of decorative art from the rococo period. or 6.m. Admission: 6.m. or 10..10) seniors.50€ ($2) children. Schiller.000 B.m. Belvedere Palace was a favorite retreat of Duchess Anna Amalia and her son’s “enlightened” Weimar court.m. summer 10 a.–6 p.

5.75) students and children. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. See map p. Erfurt. and art. You can visit Buchenwald May through September. which leads to places associated with the great poet. 2.m. Bus No. is the starting point of a popular hiking trail known as Auf Goethes Spuren (In Goethe’s Footsteps). Army in 1945. Nov–Mar 10 a. the site of the camp. doctors. 22km (14 miles) west of Weimar. The house. Within the forest. Admission is free. devoted to mementos of the German Enlightenment. representing victims of fascism. the Soviets sent thousands of prisoners here to die. and many thousands of others were sent from here to death camps in the east. and dozens of picturesque medieval villages dot the narrow. or 6. 235. once the home of Johann Sebastian Bach. prisoners of war. Tuesday to Sunday from 9:45 a. the “Widow’s Palace” was the residence of the widowed Dowager Duchess Anna Amalia. Just south of Erfurt is picturesque Arnstadt. a 110km (68-mile) .. Slavs. Later. a lively university town south of Arnstadt. Theaterplatz. Between 1945 and 1951.m.m.240 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Buchenwald: Remembering the past About 10km (6 miles) from Weimar. has an extensive collection of paintings. to 5 p.S.25) adults.m.). poets. Exploring the Thuringian Forest Weimar sits in the northeastern corner of the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest). silhouettes (all the rage back then). % 03643/545-377. winding roads. who presided over a “Court of the Muses. long extolled by nature lovers for its scenic beauty.. and philosophers met to discuss issues of science. At least 56.m. political prisoners. the Nazis set up one of their nightmare concentration camps. Soviet occupation forces also used the site as an internment camp.” where artists. spruce-clad mountains rise to about 985m (3.225 ft.– 6 p. Tuesday to Sunday from 8:45 a. 6 marked “Buchenwald. % 03643/4300).–4 p. To reach the memorial. 4. Bus: 1. October through April. A memorial with a cluster of “larger than life” people. 6 from Weimar’s main train station makes the trip northwest of town to Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial. Admission: 4€ ($5. 3. If you want to explore this picturesque area by car. The museum reflects both the Soviet and the Nazi past of the camp. thought. honors the people from 32 nations who lost their lives at Buchenwald.m. take Bus No. The Nazis confined about a quarter of a million Jews.000 people died at Buchenwald. homosexuals. to 6 p.m. and others in this work camp from 1937 until the camp’s liberation by the U. and costumes. Gypsies. old castles crown the tops of hills. Ilmenau. is the oldest town in the region and the capital of Thuringia. 3€ ($3.” Wittumspalais A short walk along Schillerstrasse from the Schiller House leads to the elegant Wittumspalais (vit-ooms-pa-lay). one of the great cities of German art and culture. in beech woods (Buchenwald) where Goethe and Schiller once walked.m. Completed in 1767.

You find a good selection to choose from along Schillerstrasse and around Theaterplatz. selling books only. crystal. Bräuhausgasse 15 (% 03643/402-540). Also appealing are Antikitäten am Schloss. Shopping in Weimar A visit to Weimar’s antiques stores offers a chance to buy porcelain. and concerts at the tourist information centers or the theater box office. in 1919. Kaufenstrasse 7 (% 03643/402-567). and furniture that survived the devastation of WWII. the National Congress passed the new democratic constitution that was the basis for the short-lived Weimar Republic. Kaiser Antikitäten. Schillerstrasse 22 (same phone).Chapter 14: Dresden. Weimar’s bars and outdoor cafes are good places to drink and talk into the night. dance. Leipzig. The most interesting shops include Antikitäten am Palais. prices range from 8€ to 35€ ($10–$37). Schillerstrasse 22 (% 03643/59625). and its immediate neighbor. Theaterplatz (% 03643/755-334). Discovering nightlife in Weimar Weimar’s main performance venue is the Deutsches Nationaltheater (German National Theater).) You can buy tickets for opera. Goethe-Antiquariat. and Weimar 241 scenic road called the Thuringer Hochstrasse (Thuringian High Road) runs from Eisenach to Ilmenau. Obereschlossgasse 2 (% 03643/512-993). where Franz Liszt and Richard Strauss once conducted. silver. . and Thiersch Antikitäten. (This building is also where.

242 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .

Part IV Southern and Western Germany .

or Black Forest. and what to see. . Going beyond Munich. including the Romantic Road. the beautiful capital of Bavaria. with its picturesque corners and Gothic churches. the cultural capital of southwest Germany.outhern Germany is different from other regions in Germany. Chapter 20 is all about Frankfurt. an ideal driving tour loaded with unspoiled medieval towns. I also tell you about visiting the alpine resort towns of GarmischPartenkirchen and Oberammergau. known as the Bodensee in Germany. the most dramatic of Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castles. and the Schwarzwald. a lively city on the Rhine famous for its spectacular Gothic cathedral. You find everything you need to know about Germany’s secret capital: how to get there and get around. Stuttgart. Germany’s most famous walled medieval city. and must-see attractions such as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. one of the most scenically delightful areas in all of Deutschland. home to the cities of Freiburg and Baden-Baden. I tell you about boat trips through the river’s most scenic stretches. . and Neuschwanstein. the sophisticated city with the huge international airport that is the German port of entry for many international visitors. Chapter 19 is all about Cologne (Köln in German). I devote Chapter 15 entirely to Munich. In case you’re eager to ride the Rhine. bucolic scenery. I highlight lovely Lake Constance. famed for its woodcarvers. and Nuremberg (Nürnberg in German). S In this part . Western Germany includes the popular and populous Rhineland region and many famous cities that are easy to reach and fun to explore. Chapter 18 covers three cities in western and central Germany: Heidelberg. how to find a fine hotel or restaurant. in Chapter 16. the romantic town on the Neckar River. Easy day trips from Cologne include the wine-growing regions of the Mosel Valley and the Rheingau section of the Rhine Valley. . In Chapter 17. as you discover in this part. I describe additional sightseeing possibilities in Bavaria.

and revelry. sophisticated city. in every square. eating. Oktoberfest.Chapter 15 Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Munich ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Discovering the top attractions ᮣ Shopping for fashions. and more ᮣ Enjoying Munich’s nightlife M unich (München. sunny day or a balmy night and you see people sitting outside. Munich offers so much to visitors that I recommend you give yourself at least three days here. palaces.5 million people who live in Munich — think of the city as Germany’s secret capital. Munich also is a rich. Walk through the Altstadt (Old Town) on a warm. Before Lent. and have a good time. is a town that likes to celebrate. with an unparalleled array of artistic and cultural treasures. food. pronounced Mewn-shin. one of those hard-to-translate words that means something like cozy and/or good-natured. a whirl of colorful parades. Many Germans — especially the 1. starts in September and lasts for 16 days. and theaters are part and parcel of life in the Bavarian capital. and enjoying life. which attracts some 7 million revelers. listen to the oom-pah-pah bands. World-class museums. elegant. . the capital of Bavaria. Oom-pah-pah aside. Throughout the year. Think of Gemütlichkeit as a kind of cozy charm and you’ll get the picture. concert halls. masked balls. people gather in the giant beer halls and beer gardens to quaff liters of beer. the city goes into party mode again and celebrates Fasching (Carnival). from January through February. in German). The city is all about prosperity and good-natured Gemütlichkeit. Munich is the Germans’ first choice as a desirable place to live. drinking. If you believe the polls.

with a hotel. Munich has no lack of transportation options. A taxi to the city center costs about 70€ ($87) and can take more than an hour if traffic is heavy.m. By train You can easily reach Munich by train from any city in Germany or Europe.40€ ($10) adults.m. is one of Europe’s largest train stations.m. The city is easily accessible from anywhere within Germany or Europe. the airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world. www.25) for children. By plane Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss International Airport (% 089/9752-1313. The S-8 S-Bahn (% 089/4142-4344) train connects the airport with the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in downtown Munich. You find a train information office on the mezzanine level.” Getting There As one of Germany’s major cities.50) children. Munich has an international airport. The fare for the 40-minute trip is 8. Trains leave from the S-Bahn platform beneath the airport every 20 minutes daily between 4:02 a. or “little monk. on Bahnhofplatz near the city center.. so you can fly there directly from the United States. Connected to the rail station are the city’s extensive S-Bahn rapid-transit system and the U-Bahn (subway) system. open daily from 7 a. . 5€ ($ is located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. Daily trains arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 33⁄4 hours) and Berlin (trip time: 7 hours).bahn. a small village located near a Benedictine abbey on the river Isar called itself Mönch.munich-airport.m. shopping. and banking facilities. Munich’s Hauptbahnhof. 1. you can also call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail.m. Like Frankfurt.10€ ($1. restaurants. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. to 7:50 p. to 8 p. % 11861 for train information and schedules [an English speaker will be available to help you].246 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The little monk of Munich In the ninth century. German for “monk. Opened in 1992. and 10:42 a.” Since that time. Munich’s coat of arms has included a figure of the Münchner Kindl.m. less frequently through the night. The Lufthansa Airport Bus (% 089/323-040) also runs between the airport and the main train station in Munich every 20 minutes from 5:10 a.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


By car
I do not recommend driving in Munich. Most of downtown is a pedestrian-only area — wonderful if you’re a walker, a nightmare if you’re a driver. Traffic jams are frequent, and parking spaces are elusive and costly. If you plan on making excursions into the countryside, renting a car in the city center instead of trekking out to the airport is more convenient. Car-rental companies with windows at the main train station include Avis (% 089/1260-000), Hertz (% 089/1295-001), and Sixt Autovermietung (% 089/550-2447).

Finding Information After You Arrive
Munich’s tourist office, Fremdenverkehrsamt München (% 089/23396500;, operates a tourist information center in the main train station (Bahnhofplatz 2, adjacent to the DER Reisebüro/ German Rail Travel Office). You can pick up a map of Munich, get information on cultural events, and book a hotel room. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. You find another branch of the tourist office in the city center at Marienplatz in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); hours are Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can make a hotel reservation online or at the main tourist office.

Orienting Yourself in Munich
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is an oval-shaped pedestrian-only district on the west bank of the Isar River. (See the “Munich Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.) Munich’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) lies just west of the Altstadt. Marienplatz, the Altstadt’s most important square, is where you find several important churches, the Residenz (former royal palace), the National Theater, and the Viktualienmarkt, a wonderfully lively outdoor market. Between Marienplatz and the National Theater is the Platzl quarter, famed for its nightlife, restaurants, and the landmark Hofbräuhaus, the most famous beer hall in the world. Odeonsplatz, to the north of Marienplatz, is Munich’s most beautiful square. Running west from Odeonsplatz is Briennerstrasse, a wide shopping avenue that leads to Königsplatz (King’s Square). Flanking this large square, in an area known as the Museum Quarter, are three neoclassical buildings constructed by Ludwig I and housing Munich’s antiquities: the Propyläen, the Glyptothek, and the Antikensammlungen. Another triad of world-famous art museums — the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Masters Gallery), and the Pinakothek Moderne Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art) — also lie in the Museum Quarter, just northeast of Königsplatz.

248 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Munich Neighborhoods


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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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250 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Ludwigstrasse connects the Altstadt with Schwabing, a former artists’ quarter located north of the Altstadt and known for its cafes, restaurants, and nightlife. Olympiapark, site of the 1972 Olympics, is northwest of Schwabing. The sprawling park known as the Englischer Garten is located east of Schwabing. East of the Isar River lie Bogenhausen and Haidhausen, leafy neighborhoods just outside the city center where you find some hotels and restaurants. Theresienwiese, site of the annual Oktoberfest, and Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace), one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces, are both located west of the Altstadt.

Getting Around Munich
Munich is a large city, only slightly smaller than Berlin or Hamburg. The best way to explore is by walking and using the excellent publictransportation system. Subways (U-Bahn), trams (Strassenbahn), buses, and light-rail lines (S-Bahn) make getting anywhere in the city easy. In the Altstadt, you can walk to all the attractions — in fact, you have to, because the Altstadt is a car-free zone. For information, call the publictransportation authority, MVV, at % 089/4142-4344, or visit it on the Web at

Using public transportation
You’ll probably use the underground U-Bahn (subway) and the aboveground Strassenbahn (tram) systems most frequently. The same ticket entitles you to ride U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses. Purchase tickets from vending machines marked Fahrkarten in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations; the machines display instructions in English. You also can buy tickets in the tram or from a bus driver. Tickets must then be validated in the machines found on platforms and in buses and trams; stick your ticket into the machine, which stamps it with the date and time. A validated ticket is valid for two hours. You can transfer as often as you like to any public transportation as long as you travel in the same direction. Munich has four concentric fare zones. Most, if not all, of your sightseeing will take place in Zone 1, which includes the city center. A single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) in Zone 1 costs 2.20€ ($2.75). The München Welcome Card, available at either Fremdenverkehrsamt München tourist information center, lets you ride all public transportation and offers discounts of up to 50 percent off on major tourist attractions and city tours. A tageskarte (day ticket) good for a day of travel within the city limits costs 6.50€ ($8) for adults, 2.30€ ($3) for children 6 to 14. A 3-tageskarte (three-day ticket) costs 12€ ($15). A partner 3-tageskarte, a three-day ticket good for two people traveling together, costs 20€ ($25). You can buy these cards from the ticket vending machines or at station ticket windows.

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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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252 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Catching a cab
Taxis are cream-colored, plentiful, and expensive. You can get a taxi at one of the stands located all across the city, or you can hail a cab on the street if its rooftop light is illuminated. Taxi fares begin at 2.70€ ($3.50); each additional kilometer costs 1.25€ to 1.60€ ($1.60–$2), depending on the distance; there’s an additional 1€ ($1.25) to order a taxi by phone. Call Taxizentrale at % 089/21610 for a radio-dispatched taxi.

Staying in Style
Hotels in Munich are more expensive than elsewhere in Germany, and rooms are scarce (and prices much higher) during Oktoberfest and when trade fairs are in town. I strongly recommend that you book your Munich hotel room in advance. I’ve weighted my choices toward hotels in central Munich. The highest prices in this section are for rooms during Oktoberfest and trade fairs. The Fremdenverkehrsamt (tourist office) in the main train station (see the “Finding Information After You Arrive” section earlier in this chapter) can book a room for you and give you a map with instructions for reaching it. The service is free, but the office collects a 10 percent deposit of the total value of the room; the hotel then deducts this amount from your bill. For locations, see the “Central Munich Accommodations and Dining” map in this chapter.

The top hotels
Here you can find a variety of great hotels. See also the listing for the outstanding Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München ($$$$) in Chapter 22.

Advokat Hotel
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt
You don’t find frills or froufrou in this streamlined 50-room hotel in a 1930s apartment building. The Advokat is strictly minimalist in approach and has an understated elegance. The rooms are medium-sized, with clean, simple furnishings. Each room comes with a compact bathroom, most with tub and shower. See map p. 254. Baaderstrasse 1, 80469 München. % 089/21-63-10. Fax: 089/216-3190. S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk south on Zweibrücken Strasse and west on Baaderstrasse). Rates: 155€–275€ ($194–$344) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit An der Oper
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt


This five-story hotel, dating from 1969, is wonderfully situated for sightseeing and shopping in the Altstadt. The décor is basic modern without being particularly distinguished. The 68 rooms are on the small side but have double-glazed windows and a small sitting area. The bathrooms are small, too, and come with a shower. See map p. 254. Falkenturmstrasse 11 (just off Maximilianstrasse, near Marienplatz), 80331 München. % 089/290-0270. Fax: 089/2900-2729. www.hotelanderoper. com. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater stop (then a 5-minute walk south on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Falkenturmstrasse). Rates: 150€–235€ ($187–$294) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

$$ –$$$$ Near Train Station
If you want a nice place right across the street from the train station, this is the best. From the outside, this large hotel looks a bit austere, but the interior has been redone with a pleasantly modern look. Most of the 211 rooms are fairly large, and all are decorated in a comfortable, unobtrusive style. Bathrooms are larger than average, with tub and shower. One child younger than age 6 is allowed to stay free in a parent’s room; for an additional child, an extra bed can be rented for 42€ ($52). See map p. 254. Arnulfstrasse 4, 80335 München. % 089/551-150. Fax: 089/5511-5555. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is opposite the north side of the train station). Rates: 139€–282€ ($174–$352) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gästehaus Englischer Garten
$ –$$$ Schwabing
This 25-room guesthouse near the Englischer Garten is quiet, charming, and an excellent value. The rooms are small to medium in size and decorated with a homey mixture of antiques, old-fashioned beds, and Oriental rugs. The bathrooms are small, with showers only. You can save a few euros by renting one of the six rooms that share bathrooms. In an annex across the street are 15 small apartments, each with a bathroom and a kitchenette. Breakfast costs an extra 9€ ($11); on nice mornings, you can eat outside in the back garden. See map p. 254. Liebergesellstrasse 8, 80802 München-Schwabing. % 089/383-9410. Fax: 089/3839-4133. U-Bahn: Münchener Freiheit (then a 10-minute walk east on Haimhäuserstrasse to Erninger Platz and east on Liebergesellstrasse). Rates: 68€–120€ ($85–$150) double without bathroom; 114€–180€ ($142–$225) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

254 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Central Munich Accommodations and Dining
ACCOMMODATIONS Advokat Hotel 37 Am Markt 35 An der Oper 26 Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 13 Eden-Hotel-Wolff 3 Gästehaus Englischer Garten 16 Hotel Bristol München 8 Hotel Exquisit 7 Hotel Jedermann 4 Hotel Mark 10 Hotel Olympic 9 Hotel Opera 41 Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel 44 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München 40 Königshof 11 Königswache 1 Mandarin Oriental 30 München City Hilton 38 Platzl Hotel 33 Splendid-Dollman 43 DINING Alois Dallmayr 23 Augustiner Grossgaststätte 12 Austernkeller 39 Biergarten Chinesischer Turm 18 Boettner 24 Buon Gusto Talamonti 29 Donisl 21 La Galleria 32 Gandl 42 Gasthaus Glockenbach 6 Gaststätte zum Flaucher 36 Georgenhof 15 Hunsinger’s Pacific 14 Hofbräuhaus am Platzl 27 Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom 19 Pfistermühle 33 Prinz Myshkin 20 Ratskeller München 22 Rossi 28 Spatenhaus 25 Tantris 17 Times Square Online Bistro 5 Zum Alten Markt 34
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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


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later in this chapter). See map p. Rates: 99€–150€ ($123–$187) double. shower-only bathrooms. family-run hotel offers a central location and 55 comfortable rooms. Hotel Jedermann $ –$$$ Near Train Station Jedermann means “everyman. Fax: 089/ U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 3-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). Pettenkoferstrasse 2. this efficient. request one that faces the courtyard. 80336 München. The small bathrooms contain tiled showers. MC. 80335 München. Hotel Exquisit $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. The hotel is attached to the famous Augustiner beer hall and restaurant (see the “Dining Out” section. This most with roomy. Pettenkoferstrasse 3. with simple. The staff here is unusually pleasant and helpful. 14 newly redecorated rooms have air-conditioning. . The 56 rooms are fairly small. Tram: 19 to Herman-Lingg-Strasse (the stop across from the hotel). V. Rates include breakfast. 254. % 089/543-240. % 089/551-9900. See map p. % 089/5999-3902.hotel-exquisit. AE. 67€–149€ ($84–$186) double with bathroom. MC. www. 254. About half of them overlook a pretty garden.bristol-munich. MC. and babysitting). modern hotel is a congenial. The hotel serves a generous breakfast buffet.” and that translates here into affordable. Rates include buffet breakfast. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 10-minute walk west on Bayerstrasse from south exit). See map p. V. convenient place to stay in central Munich. Cheaper rooms with in-room showers but toilets down the hall also are available. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 5-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). family-friendly prices (including cribs and cots.256 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hotel Bristol München $ –$$ Altstadt Built around 1960 and renovated in 2002. AE. www. Bathrooms are compact and have showers. DC. built in 1988 in the same vicinity as the Hotel Bristol München (see the preceding listing). 80336 München. www. 254. Fax: 089/ 5999-3994. Fax: 089/ 5519-9499. is located on a quiet residential street in the heart of Munich. For a quieter room. appealing hotel. The 50 rooms are large and comfortably furnished in an old-fashioned German style. serene. comfortable furnishings. and you can check your e-mail on the computer in the lobby. Rates include breakfast. adjoining rooms. Bayerstrasse 95. Rates: 57€–86€ ($71–$107) double without bathroom. Rates: 170€–250€ ($212–$312) double.

MC. See map MC. and several gay bars and cafes are located nearby. Rates include breakfast. Fax: 089/ 4160-5466. 80538 München. Hans Sachs Strasse 4. www. Some of the rooms have small balconies. The 25 distinctively decorated rooms have country antiques or a cool. Rooms in the rear on the third and fourth floors are quieter but also smaller than those facing the street. and modern. Rates: 185€–265€ ($231–$331) double. stylish hotel is popular with gay travelers. 254. however.-Anna-Strasse). Rates include breakfast. DC. % 089/416-050. See map p. occupies an ornate 19th-century building that was turned . AE. comfy beds and lots of wood. elegant. % 089/225-533. The hotel is a short walk from chic Maximilianstrasse and several major attractions. minimalist. AE. MC. Ismaninger Strasse 42–44. % 089/231-890. U-Bahn: Prinzregenten-Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Prinz Regenten Strasse and south on Ismaninger Strasse). Most of the midsize bathrooms come with shower only. The small. and 64 guest rooms nicely decorated in a Bavarianchalet style with AE. The 38 rooms. www. this hotel has a high-ceilinged lobby and a large wood-paneled breakfast room that retain much of their original late-19th-century detailing. See map p. boutique hotel. 80469 München. breakfast room. 254. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor. Fax: 089/ 2318-9199. The bathrooms have a tub and shower. modern look. superclassy Mandarin Oriental. 254. The rooms are fairly large and have good bathrooms. St. then Tram 18 or 20 east to Hans Sachs Strasse. 81675 Munich. Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel $ –$$$$ Bogenhausen This quietly charming boutique hotel on the east bank of the Isar has a lobby. Rates: 90€–400€ ($112–$500) double.prinzregent. The level of service is exceptional. V. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 5-minute walk north on St. located in the historic heart of Munich.hotel-olympic.-Anna-Strasse 10. some face a garden.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Hotel Olympic $$ Altstadt 257 Built as a private villa around 1900. Mandarin Oriental $$$$ Altstadt The sophisticated. V. Fax: 089/21040977. are white. The hotel is a ten-minute walk from Maximilianstrasse and the center of the city. www. Hotel Opera $$$$ Altstadt An early-20th-century Italianate building with a courtyard and garden houses this small. Rates: 150€–200€ ($187–$250) double. Rates include buffet breakfast.

this reconstructed “medieval” hotel is located across from the Hofbräuhaus. No two rooms are the same. 254. and some are on the small side.Thierschstrasse 49. Sparkassenstrasse 10. MC. . fine prints and engravings. DC. but they’re paneled in chestnut and alderwood and furnished with 19th-century reproduction Biedermeier-era (early-19th-century) furnishings.258 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany into a hotel in 1990. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (then a 3-minute walk south on Neuturmstrasse). the Splendid-Dollman is in the same league as Hotel Opera down the street. See map p. and big marble-tiled bathrooms with tub-shower combinations outfit the 73 rooms and suites. Rates include buffet breakfast. % 089/23-80-80. Rates: 375€–490€ ($469–$612) double.splendid-dollmann. If you’re looking for a gulp of old-fashioned Bavarian ambience. for an additional 11€ ($13). V. AE. 80538 München. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 3-minute walk east from St. MC. Most of the rooms have terraces with panoramic views of the city. Heiliggeistrasse 6. You can enjoy breakfast. most with a tub-and-shower combination. DC. Munich’s famous beer hall.mandarinoriental. % 089/225-014.platzl. 254. See map p. www. but not quite as chichi. The Splendid-Dollmann’s owners moved the hotel (formerly located about a block away) to this building in 2003 and completely redid the interior.-Anna-Platz to Thierschstrasse). 80331 München. MC. Rates: 161€–230€ ($201–$281) double. outside on a patio. 80331 München. Fax: 089/23808365. Fax: 089/222-539. AE. Fax: 089/ 2370-3800. Each comes with a compact tiled % 089/237-030. V. The rooftop terrace provides a view of Munich’s steeples and spires. Rates: 150€–190€ ($167–$237) double. Splendid-Dollmann $$ –$$$$ Altstadt A small. Neuturmstrasse 1. See map p. many of which share bathrooms. Platzl Hotel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Owned by the Ayinger brewery. % 089/290-980. AE. The hotel has a heated rooftop swimming pool. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. See map p. Runner-up hotels Am Markt $ Altstadt This popular budget hotel centrally located in the Altstadt has small. 254. but the overall ambience is hard to beat. The staff at this full-service hotel will arrange baby-sitting. this is one of the best choices in Munich.hotel inmunich. beautifully done boutique hotel. www. 80331 München. neat rooms. Fax: 089/224-017. No credit cards. The 167 rooms tend to be small. DISC. www. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). V. www.

Rosenheimerstrasse 15. München City Hilton $ $ $ Haidhausen An excellent choice for business travelers and families with children. and snacks also are sold from outdoor stalls all around the Viktualienmarkt. Königswache $ $ Near Altstadt This 1960s-era hotel features modern. heh. Schweinbraten. 254. Fax: 089/523-2114. this 90-room hotel is convenient. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/ See map p. 80333 München. www. Tram: 19. If you want a refreshing nonalcoholic drink. Steinheilstrasse 7.or oven-roasted marinated beef). 254. small cafes and bistros. 81667 München. Filling the city are all kinds of fine restaurants. www. and moderately priced. 80336 München.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 259 $ $ $ $ Altstadt This full-service luxury hotel dates from 1841 and has individually decorated rooms with large bathrooms. soups. 254. See map % 800-223-6800 in the U. www. Fax: 089/212-0906. and beer halls that serve 254. % 089/542-7570.S. or 089/21200. Karlsplatz 25. Hotel Mark $ –$$ Near the Train Station Although not fancy. Inexpensive sausages. Königshof $ $ $ $ Altstadt This famous hotel boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant and has lushly decorated rooms with marble bathrooms. comfortable rooms with compact tiled bathrooms. and Canada or 089/48-040.S. % 089/551-360. Homemade dumplings are a specialty. a braised loin of pork served with potato dumplings and rich brown gravy. 80335 Munich. U-Bahn: Theresienstrasse. See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Fax: 089/4804-4804. plus a health club with pool and sauna. Promenadeplatz 2– a large loaf of sausage eaten with freshly baked pretzels and mustard. Fax: 089/5513-6113. and so are all kinds of sausages and Leberkäse. S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz. % 089/559-820. See map p. ask for Apfelsaftschorle (ap-fell-saft-shor-luh). The staff can arrange baby-sitting. well maintained. % 800-455-8667 in the U. . Senefelderstrasse 12. Dining Out Munich is a city that loves to eat — and eat big.bayerischerhof. www. apple juice mixed with sparkling water. the München City Hilton lies on the east bank of the river and features well-designed rooms with nice bathrooms. served everywhere. is Bavaria’s answer to the north’s sauerbraten (pot. 80333 Munich. Fax: 089/5598-2333. 254. See map p.

A crowd always fills the restaurant at lunchtime. which means that a service charge already has been added.–7 p. % 089/298-787. smoked fish. The restaurant is a bit pretentious. Austernkeller $$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD At this “oyster cellar. mussels.m. which owns the restaurant. U-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk north on Herrnstrasse and northeast on Stollbergstrasse. DC.m. clams. Stollbergstrasse 11.. Augustiner Grossgaststätte $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/GERMAN Located on Munich’s main pedestrians-only shopping street. MC. Open: Mon–Wed 11:30 a.–8 p. in addition to timehonored favorites such as Lobster Thermidor and shrimp grilled in the shell. 254. See map p. Neuhauser Strasse 27.260 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany If a restaurant bill says Bedienung. MC. % 089/213-5100. See map p.m.m. round up the total to the nearest euro. Downstairs you can buy fine food products. DC. . % 089/2318-3257. 254. Main courses: 20€–35€ ($25–$44). Main courses: 15€–38€ ($18–$46). and one of the most elegant. The top restaurants Alois Dallmayr $$ –$$$ Altstadt DELICATESSEN/CONTINENTAL In business for almost 300 years.m. this famous beer hall and restaurant has cavernous rooms and a genuinely gemütlich atmosphere. round up the total to the nearest euro and add another euro. and soups. don’t leave the tip on the table. See map p.–4 p.. AE. MC. Open: Daily 9 a. Open: Daily 5–11:30 p. fixedprice menus 34€–48€ ($41–$58). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2-minute walk north on Dienerstrasse). to midnight. and sea snails is a delicious way to start your meal.m. The shellfish platter with fresh oysters. The house beer. served raw or in dishes such as oysters Rockefeller. Specialties include dumpling soup and roast duck with red cabbage. If service is not included. as is the fish soup.” you find the largest selection of oysters in town. Sat 9 a. U-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 5-minute walk east on Neuhauser Strasse). but the food is excellent. upstairs in the dining room you can order a tempting array of dishes. comes from one of Munich’s oldest breweries. V. Dienerstrasse 14–15. Reservations required. Augustiner Brau. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). V.m. sausages. Alois Dallmayr is the most famous delicatessen in Germany. including herring. Menu offerings include fresh fish (salmon in champagne sauce is worth trying). Thurs–Fri 11:30 a. scampi. AE. V. 254.m. The server takes the tip when you pay the bill.

Reservations recommended. in a 16thcentury building in the heart of Munich.m. % 089/221-210. Pfisterstrasse 9.50€–28€ ($11–$39). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Tal and northeast on Hochbrückenstrasse). MC. beef filet. 254. Weinstrasse 1. and seasonal dishes with white truffles. An accordion player provides music in the evening.–3 p.m.–1 a. Reservations recommended. but at night the booking becomes more traditionally . Reservations required. See map p. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5minute walk north on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). V. MC. The standard menu offers traditional Bavarian food and weekly specials. Donisl $ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL Munich’s oldest beer hall dates from 1715 and provides diners and drinkers with a relaxed. fixed-price lunch 8. See map p. have long been a specialty. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. V. MC. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 1-minute walk north on Weinstrasse). spaghetti carbonara. % 089/296-383. but several traditional Bavarian dishes also are on the menu. % 089/29-62-64. V. and 6 p. Main courses: 17€–42€ ($21–$52). Gandl $$ –$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN/FRENCH At this attractive and lively neighborhood bistro. Try the tris di Pasta (three pastas with vegetables). to midnight. AE.m. DC.m.m. The desserts are sumptuous. 254. The cooking is light and refined. AE. DC. See map p. The atmosphere is light-hearted and fun. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. The beers come from Munich’s HackerPschorr Brewery. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). pasta with truffles. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). fixed-price menus 25€–36€ ($31–$45).Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Boettner $$$$ Altstadt INTERNATIONAL 261 When this century-old restaurant moved to its new location. Special offerings include herb-crusted lamb. AE. In summer you can dine in the garden area out front. lobster stew in a cream sauce. the lunch menu leans toward Italian. Buon Gusto Talamonti $$ Altstadt TUSCAN/ITALIAN This highly regarded Italian restaurant has two dining areas — a simple bistro overlooking an open kitchen and a more formal dining room — with the same menu items and prices. ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and herbs. DC. Hochbrückenstrasse 3. 254. with a French influence. Open: Daily 9 a. it brought its wood-paneled interior with it. comfortable atmosphere. fixed-price dinner 28€–38€ ($39–$47). or the roasted lamb with potatoes. to midnight. the little white sausages famous in Munich.m. Weisswürste. The various risottos (rice dishes) are especially good.

For dessert. Georgenhof $$ Schwabing GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This pleasant Schwabing eatery has a comfortably rustic interior with a wood-fired grill. but if the weather is nice. The vegetables come from local farms. U-Bahn: Goetheplatz (then a 10-minute walk south on Lindwurm and east on Kapuzinerstrasse to the corner of Maistrasse). but you’ll typically find fare such as entrecote with arugula salad. nouvelle French-German-Bavarian cuisine and has earned a Michelin star. Closed 1 week at Christmas. % 089/534-043. AE. France. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). AE. % 089/2916-2525.-Anna Platz 1. gnocchi. V. grilled filet of salmon in saffron sauce. MC.262 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany French. 254.m. Kapuzinerstrasse 29. St. The menu offerings change with the seasons and typically include venison and pheasant in autumn and lamb and veal dishes in spring. 254.m. Upstairs are a number of smaller. Gasthaus Glockenbach $$$$ South of Train Station MODERN EUROPEAN This elegant but unpretentious restaurant serves imaginative. Bavarian game dishes include Rehpfeffer (venison) with egg Spätzle (German pasta) or tagliatelle with venison ragout. See map p.-Anna Platz exit). See map p. quieter dining rooms. Dinner offerings change often. See map p. Main courses: 8€–18€ ($10–$22). The beer is Hofbrau.m. and ravioli. try the simple but delicious Bavarian cream with strawberries. The big gourmet salad with various meats and pâtés is delicious. Fredrichstrasse 1. In the Schwemme (tap room) on the ground floor.m. 254. U-Bahn: Lehel (the restaurant is less than a block from the St. too. a big courtyard is on this level. Fixed-price menu: 31€ ($39). The Italian dishes include homemade pastas. The food is . Eat on the terrace if the weather’s nice. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 2 p. V. and Austria. sit outside under the chestnut trees. Hofbräuhaus am Platzl $$ Altstadt GERMAN A boisterous atmosphere prevails in Munich’s huge and world-famous beer hall. and 7–10 p. mostly organic. MC.m. Grilled meats such as lamb and steak are popular. Wines are mostly from Italy. Reservations recommended. % 089/39-31-01. The menu reflects seasonal specialty Spargel (asparagus) in May and June and regional favorites. or lamb in red-wine sauce. MC. Open: Daily 11 a. Fixedprice menus: 20€–45€ ($25–$56) lunch.–1 a. 35€–70€ ($44–$87) dinner. U-Bahn: Universität (then a 10minute walk west on Schelling Strasse and north on Turkenstrasse to the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Georgenstrasse). to midnight. V. which is served by the mass equal to about a quart. too. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. you sit on benches at bare wood tables as a brass band plays. such as spaghetti carbonara. Main courses: 23€–30€ ($29–$37).

and India (curry). % 089/295-264. Hot dogs will never taste the same again after your kid has tried one of these delectable little sausages.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 263 heavy and hearty with a menu that includes Weisswürste and several other sausages. La Galleria $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN The roster of dishes at this appealing Italian restaurant changes seasonally. or braised crab with polenta. Thailand (lemon grass). No credit cards. Reservations recommended. 254. % 089/5502-9741.m.m. 254. See map p.m. Spanferkel (roast suckling pig). Open: Daily 10 a. across from the cathedral (Dom). See map p. and lime is a delicious starter. Main courses include bouillabaisse with aioli (a fish soup with a spicy mayonnaise). U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 10-minute walk northeast on Oskar-von-Miller Strasse to the entrance on Max-Joseph-Strasse). cold melon soup.m.m. Main courses: 110€–40€ ($25–$50).m. Closed Aug 10–30. Japan (wasabi). MC. AE. a specialty from Nuremberg) is the dish to try. MC. Fixed-price dinner: 48€–54€ ($60–$67). Maximiliansplatz 5. and 5 p. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). The tuna carpaccio with sliced plum. Schweinbraten (roasted pork). AE. Main courses: 21€–24€ ($26–$30). Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. V. Closed Aug. Am Platzl 9. Everything on the menu is translated into English. The menu emphasizes fresh fish prepared according to classic French cooking techniques but using spices from Malaysia (coconut milk). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to Frauenplatz beside the Frauenkirche). and 6–10:30 p.m. You sit in carved wooden chairs at shared tables. 254. homemade gnocchi with duck and figs. and stuffed cabbage rolls. Sparkassenstrasse 11.m. DC. . Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom $ Altstadt BAVARIAN A short walk from Marienplatz. Nürnberger Schweinwurstl mit Kraut (pork sausages with cabbage. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. See map p. fresh ginger. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Bräuhausstrasse).–1 a. No credit cards. Frauenplatz 9. V. % 089/290-1360. to midnight. this is the coziest and friendliest of Munich’s local restaurants.–2:30 p. and turbot in chili and ginger sauce. Open: Daily 9 a. Hunsinger’s Pacific $$ –$$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL/ASIAN This restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices. fried monkfish. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 3-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). 254. but you may find main courses such as mushroom tartar. to midnight. See map p. % 089/297-995. veal with arugula. roast duck with lentils.

MC. Asian-inspired vegetarian entrees. % 089/2370-3800. Reservations recommended. DC. you may want to try this popular vegetarian restaurant near Marienplatz. In the Platzl Hotel. % 089/219-9890. woody interior with carved wooden chairs and tables and painted ceilings. where you find good. and vegetarian Involtini (stuffed rollups). in the Rathaus.m. See map p. or grilled steak (Rindfilet). The simply prepared pastas (Teigwaren in German) are always good. The menu includes freshly made salads. Rossi $$ Altstadt ITALIAN With its columns. fresh trout accompanied by chive-flecked sour cream and a potato pancake. % 089/265-596. The menu showcases regional dishes but also includes some vegetarian choices. and white walls with wood-paneled ceiling. See map p.–11:30 p. MC. MC. Ratskeller München has a dark. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). and pizzas generally are excellent. 254. Hackenstrasse 2. 254. Prinz Myshkin $ Altstadt VEGETARIAN If sausages and meat dishes are getting to you.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (the Rathaus is on the square). Marienplatz 8. See map p.m. V. Reservations recommended. 254. Toast the end of your Bavarian meal with a glass of wild-cherry schnapps.m. Pfistermühle 4. Open: Daily 10 a. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). Come for roast meats served with fresh vegetables. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk southwest on Rindermarkt and Oberanger and north on Sack Strasse to Hackenstrasse). Main courses: 16€–24€ ($20–$30). V. . AE. The daily special pasta may be something more exotic. red-tiled floor. AE. vine-covered restaurant housed in a converted mill serves hearty portions of traditional Bavarian food in a series of charmingly decorated dining rooms or at outdoor tables.–1 a. macrobiotic dishes.264 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pfistermühle $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN This old-fashioned. You can also get a good pizza. like fettucine with tartufo (truffles). Try spaghetti alle pomodoro (with tomatoes) or penne ai formaggi (with cheese). inexpensive food and wine. For dessert try vanilla custard with fresh berry sauce. Open: Daily 11 a. this well-liked Italian restaurant across from the famous Hofbräuhaus is an inviting place to dine. AE. veal piccata with lemon sauce. Ratskeller München $ –$$ Altstadt BAVARIAN A Ratskeller is a cellar restaurant in a Rathaus (town hall). V. The casseroles. soups. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight. Main courses: 8€–22€ ($10–$27). or the fish platter served with ragout and noodles.

The choice of dishes is limited and changes often. Reservations recommended. 254. and 6:30 p. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. V. MC. The bistro also has a section for noncomputerized dining. Open: Mon–Fri 11:30 a. DC. DC. MC. MC. and 6 p.m. % 089/361-9590.m. See map p. Schwabing. this sophisticated Michelin-starred restaurant has a modernist interior that reminds some of an airport lounge. Main courses: 7€–14€ ($9–$17). technobistro in the main train station.–3 p. Sat 6 p. where you can order simple dishes such as pork cutlets. % 089/227-735. Fixed-price dinner: 120€–140€ ($150–$175). including pork and sausages. tagliatelle.m. Open: Daily 7:30 a. north on Leopold Strasse. Reservations required. The quality varies here. AE.–1 a. Residenzstrasse 12. Bayerstrasse 10 A. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk north on Diener Strasse and Residenzstrasse). . which you can rent for 2.m.m.m. V. Wash down your meal with the restaurant’s own beer. baked Camembert. Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. in the main train station. to midnight. Breakfast: 4€–10€ ($5–$13). red cabbage and cheese Spätzle. medallions of venison with mushrooms. Fixedprice lunch: 62€–92€ ($77–$115). AE. sautéed foie gras with plums. The Bayerische Teller (Bavarian plate) comes loaded with various meats. MC.– 12:30 a. and finish with a hazelnut soufflé with marinated figs. Bräuhausstrasse 6. Times Square Online Bistro $ Train Station CONTINENTAL/SNACKS A bank of online computers.–1 a. 254. Closed public holidays and annual holidays in Jan and May. V. Open: Daily 9:30 a.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 265 See map p.m. Spatenhaus $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This well-known beer restaurant with big windows overlooking the opera house serves hearty portions of typical Bavarian food at reasonable prices.50€ ($ 3. and spinach strudel. AE. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 3 p.m. Main courses: 14€–26€ ($17–$32). Main courses: 7€–18€ ($9–$22). takes up one side of this bright. 254. V.10) per quarter-hour. U-/S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk west on Tal and northeast on Hochbrücken to Bräuhausstrasse). high-ceilinged. % 089/290-7060. Spaten-Franziskaner-Bier.m. to midnight.m. % 089/550-8800. Tantris $$$$ Schwabing FRENCH/GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A famed culinary mecca since 1972.m. and east on Johan-Fichte-Strasse). AE. and I’d recommend it more for a snack between e-mails than a real meal. See map p. With one of the fixed-price multi-course menus you may begin with a yellowfin tuna followed by monkfish with lobster raviolis. U-Bahn: Dietlindenstrasse (then a 10-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse.

Munich’s big outdoor produce market. U-Bahn: Giselastrasse). to 1 a. to midnight. pretzel) is the traditional accompaniment to ein Glas helles (ine glahss hel-les. The food. one of Munich’s largest and most popular beer gardens. tables are set up outside. Main courses: 12€–20€ ($15–$25). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south to Dreifaltifkeitsplatz on the east side of the Viktualienmarkt). ߜ Biergarten Chinesischer Turm.m. Isarauen 8 (% 089/723-2677. You may begin with homemade cream of carrot soup or black-truffle tortellini in cream sauce. friendly eatery is located on a tiny square just off the Viktualienmarkt.m. you’ll usually find pretzels on the table. % 089/299-995. or accordionists sometimes add to the jovial atmosphere. a Brezel (bray-zuhl. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 11 a. The chef makes a great Tafelspitz (boiled beef). For a glass or mug of beer. expect to pay 3€ to 6. .). where you can sit outdoors. Englischer Garten 3 (% 089/3838720. depending on its size. Salty pretzels and large white radishes (Radl) are traditional accompaniments to the beer.266 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Brezeln und bier (pretzels and beer) In Munich. chewy. and atmosphere are much the same in the two places that I recommend. November to April. is located in the Englischer Garten at the foot of the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). A simple meal generally costs around 10€ ($13). Zum Alten Markt $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This snug. Oom-pah-pah bands. it’s open Friday. but keep in mind that you’ll be charged up to 5€ ($6. to 9 p.50€ ($3. Bus: 52). The best beer gardens Munich is famed for its beer gardens (Biergartens). a glass of light wheat beer).m.25) for every Brezel you eat. near the zoo.m.m. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 10 a. not-too-salty crust and a soft thick interior. Saturday. In summer. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight (food served until 10 p. Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 3. In the beer halls. ߜ Gaststätte zum Flaucher. an easy-to-find landmark.75–$8). zither players. and order hearty Bavarian food at reasonable prices. quaff Munich’s famous brews. and Sunday from 10 a. You can also order classic dishes such as roast duck with applesauce or roast suckling pig. with a golden.m. Munich pretzels are delicious. drink. has tables set in a tree-shaded garden overlooking the Isar River. No credit cards.

and southern Italy. fascinating architecture.). Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum) East of Altstadt This museum contains three vast floors of sculpture. punch the corresponding number into your audio guide to hear a full commentary. you’ll have to make some difficult decisions. decide which paintings you particularly want to see.” and the nearly 800 paintings on display in this enormous building represent the greatest European artists of the 14th through 18th centuries. Free tours highlighting various parts of the vast collection take place on Tuesday at 6:30 p. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Munich is a city bursting with first-rate museums. pick up a museum guide at the information desk. and Friday at 3 p.m. A major highlight is the Riemenschneider Room. 268. see the listings under “The top restaurants. for the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl and Augustiner Grossgastätte. which contains works in wood by the great sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). A free audio tour in English is available in the lobby. and lovely parks and gardens. and beautiful places to stroll. (Tues until 10 p. For locations.50€ ($7) adults. free for children 14 and younger Sun 1€ ($1.m. . Admission: Tues–Sat 5. When you see a painting you want to know more about. Barer Strasse 27. folk art. To make the most of your time here. The objects on view are among Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 267 For two of the best beer halls in Munich. Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) Museum Quarter Pinakothek means “painting gallery. ceramics. The museum is so immense that you can easily spend several days exploring the two floors of exhibits. Closed major holidays. Enjoying Munich is easy. many fine churches and historic buildings. but if your time is limited. Tyrol. Sightseeing in Munich Munich is one of the great sightseeing cities in Germany. painting. Give yourself at least an hour just to cover the highlights. in addition to clocks and scientific instruments.–5 p. and textiles.m. See map p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.25). furniture. The museum also contains a famous collection of Christmas Nativity cribs from Bavaria.” earlier in this chapter. and then spend at least two to three hours. % 089/2380-5216. see the “Central Munich Attractions” map in this chapter.m. offering several world-class museums. 4€ ($5) students.m.

asse ellin The resie gstr n- U s tra sse s-St rass e ens Gab e lsbe Schleis sh rass e rger stra Arc isst 2 5 asse Brie nne r Str 6 Königsplatz lstra uste Seid Aug Meis U erst rass e asse nstr sse Kar lstra sse se tras 7 Karolinenplatz sse Ma ens se rstra rsst ras Luis Ar nu lfstra sse S Hauptbahnhof U Elise GARTEN nstr asse Bahnhofplatz Prielm aye rstr asse i U Schütze nstr . STEFAN’S STEFAN CEMETERY ns tra Munich sse 0 ners se me nstrasse Mü llerstrasse Unte rer A U nger Sendlingertorplatz Bare rstra sse h-S tras se sse Luis 3 4 Dachauers trasse Ma x-Jo sep sse . Neuh -Wilhelm-Strasse zog Her auser 8 strass e Sonnenstr.2 mi 0. Schwanthalerstrasse Herzog spitals tr. ter str . Sonnenstr. Pettenko fer- strasse Hamburg Berlin G E R MAN Y Frankfurt 0 strasse MatthäusBeethoven. ALTER BOTANISCHER e Sophienstr as s Bare Lenbachplatz U Maximiliansplatz Maxb S urgst rasse Senefelderstrasse Bayerstr.268 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Central Munich Attractions Alte Pinakothek 5 Altes Rathaus 16 Antikensammlungen 7 Asamkirche 9 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 20 Deutsches Museum 10 Englischer Garten 21 Frauenkirche 17 Glockenspiel 14 Glyptothek 6 Marienplatz 14 Michaelskirche 8 Münchner Stadtmuseum 12 Neue Pinakothek 3 Neues Rathaus 15 Olympiapark 1 Olympiaturm 1 Peterskirche 13 Pinakothek der Moderne 4 Residenz 19 Schloss Nymphenburg 2 Spielzeugmuseum 15 Theatinerkirche 18 Viktualienmarkt 11 NYMPHENBURG Amalienburg 26 Badenburg Pavilion 22 Magdalenenklause 25 Marstallmuseum 27 Pagodenburg 24 Porzellan-ManufakturNymphenburg 30 Porzellansammlung 28 Schloss 29 Schlosspark 23 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn U-Bahn eimers trasse s tr. Karlsplatz Adolf-Kolping-Str.2 km Blu Tha lkirc h Jah U ST. Goethestrasse Schillerstrasse Landwehrstrasse Mathildenstra spitalstr . Ho t Joseph 9 Se li nd ng ers tr. 1 Zieb Sch Hes tras se Aug u i S U sten land str.Nussbaum kirche platz e s as str urm w d Lin tras 0.

e sse nh eim er .. ner Kau str.Ring trasse Strasse ENGLISCHER GARTEN Von-de r-Tann Osk Brie ing K.Vete rinär Huberplatz str. aul tiner ras s 18 Residenz 19 Liebigst Thea Kar rsta Reitm ay rasse d-F llst Wein str.-An na-Pfa rrstr. asse U Nymphenburger Kanal Schloss 29 28 26 27 ensch tr Hir rtens ga ellin 23 asse SCHLOSSPARK Am resie alie The nstr Grosser See stras nstr a sse se 22 Kaulbac hstrasse Zuccalistrasse Richildenstrasse Ludw ig t r a s se Kön igin s 21 tras se ens Schönfelds -vo n Türk le -Mil r.HOFGARTEN platz Hofg U arten strass e se dst ras se e Oett Un söl rasse 20 er- Residenzstr. rns Maxim ilians brück e stra sse r W Is en Wi er S tra sse sis Gärtnerplatz z Fra Klen un ho fe rst r tra es Mo ras M tr. Scharnagl -R se Str ass Odeons. St. e rs U tr a ss e orstra Promenadeplatz Cuvilliés Theater stras hab Christophstr. ibr Co rn ück eli str us as se en se as str . ns 11 ar do Frauenstrasse Ka e Zw nal t schs T h i er ass e rfs tra sse Viktualienmarkt Westenriederstrasse S er-R Jüdisches Museum München Maxim Knöbelstra sse ilians trasse Ste 17 Museum für Völkerkunde Thiersch Max Nationaltheater JosephPlatz Am Pfis Kosttorters Platz tras se Ma str. ide nm tr. Frauenplatz Die ing erstr . -W Marienplatz 14 Im T imm 16 Rum Is fo tr. Ba ad a Erh ers Is rdt tra str ass e Deutsches Museum 10 S ar e Bürkleinstr.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 269 Königinstr ass e stra ss e Blüte nstra sse Akad emies trasse Ada lber tstra sse NYMPHENBURG Schac strass ke 24 Kleiner See 25 30 gstr Tür Sch ken University Prof. str inge nne rstra s sse Prinz rege nten st nstra Galeri estra Theatermuseum nf e che Ler ld s sse tra ar ss e Wagmüller str. rds Ste ins m Blu e tr. ers üll tra Inn sse ere Baaderplatz Ludwigsbrücke Ke Ro se ller str Reichenbachstrasse Ze a r pp lin str a Lille nstr sse asse Hochs trasse sse ass sse . fing i S U 13 12 al Isartorplatz 15 Th.

See map p. pumps. Admission: Tues–Sat 5€ ($6. papermaking. and an assortment of military aircraft. you see a biplane flown by the Wright brothers in 1908. this is the largest science and technology museum in the world and one of the most popular attractions in Germany. This hands-on. (Wed until 8 p. Deutsches Museum (German Museum of Science and Technology) Museumsinsel Located on the Museumsinsel. and the laboratory bench at which the atom first was split (1938).m. Englischer Garten (English Garden) Northwest of Altstadt Munich’s famous city park is one of the largest (922 acres) and most beautiful city parks in Europe. Museumsinsel 1.–5 p. and Bugatti vehicles. hilltop temple called the Monopteros.m. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 10-minute walk northeast through the Hofgarten to the park). Sun 1€ ($1.m. the stream that runs through the park. are popular nude-sunbathing spots. the first automobile (1886).). Admission: 8. the first diesel engine (1897). Bounded on the south by Von-der-Tann Strasse and Prinzregentenstrasse.m. % 089/21791. 268. (Thurs until 8 p. Opel.m. or at Hertie. Open: Daily 9 a. on the east by Lerchenfeldstrasse. You can wander for hours along the tree-shaded walks. The Automobile department in the basement is noteworthy. 268. on the west by Königinstrasse. Tram: 18 to Deutsches Museum (the tram stops outside the museum). the Englischer Garten also is the oldest public park in the world. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. and how steam engines.25) adults.75) students and seniors.). Prinzregentenstrasse 3. constructed in the 19th century. 1866). 3€ ($3. and admire the view of Munich’s Altstadt from the round. and lake. You can pick up expensive picnic goodies at Alois Dallmayr (see “Dining Out. Spending half a day here is easy. The banks of the Eisbach.m. or less-expensive fare from the Viktualienmarkt (the produce market described later in this section).270 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p.50€ ($11) adults. The park is a lovely place to have a picnic. the first electric generator (called a dynamo. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 10minute walk north on Wagmüllerstrasse and east on Prinzregentenstrasse). .75) students and children 6–16. the department store across from the Hauptbahnhof.” earlier in this chapter). kid-friendly museum has interactive exhibits and an English-speaking staff to answer questions and demonstrate glass blowing. with a collection of luxury Daimler. Its huge collection of scientific and technological treasures includes the first electric locomotive (1879).25). an island in the Isar River. In the Aeronautics section. Established in 1789. free for children younger than 18. the first airliner (1919). 268. and historical musical instruments work.–5 p. A giant beer garden occupies the plaza near the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). % 089/211-2401. 3€ ($3. Closed major holidays. See map p. streams.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 271 Deutsches Museum Ceramics Glass Technical Toys Paper Writing & Printing Second Floor Ground Floor Aeronautics Glassblowing Special Exhibition Textile PhotoTechnology graphy New Energy Techniques Fraunhofer Room Brander Room Hall of Fame History of Museum Industrial Chemistry Physics Optics First Floor AeroSailing Wherry nautics Atomic & Nuclear Physics Telecommunications Musical Instruments Chemistry Oil & Natural Surface Gas Mining Turbines Metallurgy Machine Tools Welding & Soldering Ground Floor Mineral Power Machinery Resources Entrance Hall Marine Navigation Electrical Power Hydraulic Engineering Rescue Cruiser Wind Mill Vehicle Engineering Courtyard Museum Shop Roads & Bridges Tunneling Tower Railways Model Mountain Railways Railways Oil & Gas Mining Ore Dressing Power Machinery Basement Modern Mining Motor Vehicles Marine Navigation Hydraulic Engineering Motor Vehicles .

You can take an elevator to the top of the Rathaus’s tower for a good view of the city center.m. and the view from the tower is spectacular.m.m. and 5€ ($ 6.10) for adults.25) for a family..50€ ($ 3. 268. Brightly painted mechanical figures reenact two famous events from Munich’s history: the knights’ tournament during the 1586 wedding feast of Wilhelm V and Renate of Lorraine. one level below.75) adults.m. built in 19thcentury Gothic style and famous for its Glockenspiel (see the sidebar “Watching the Glockenspiel” in this chapter). Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.–7 p.m. tower Apr–Oct daily 10 a.50€ ($2) students. Frauenplatz 12. On the north side of Marienplatz is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall). % 089/290-0820. Admission is 2.m.m.50€ ($ 1.75 (95¢) for children 6 to 18. completed in the late 15th century. The rebuilt church is strikingly simple and dignified. In the center of the Altstadt. and 9 p.90) for adults. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to the church). a historical toy collection. See map p. Open: Church Sat–Thurs 7 a.m.m. open daily from 10 a. to 5:30 p.–6 p. Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady) Altstadt Munich’s largest church.–5 p. Fri 7 a. Chances are you’ll return here again and again. during the holiday seasons) when the 43-bell Glockenspiel (carillon) on the 280foot central spire of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) goes through its paces. the Schäfflertanz (Coopers’ Dance)..m. to 7 p. first performed in 1683 to express gratitude for the end of the plague. Admission is 1. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz.272 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Watching the Glockenspiel The best show on Marienplatz takes place at 11 a. 1. 15th-century Gothic tower.m. 0.m. . daily (also at noon and 5 p. Inside is the Spielzeugmuseum (% 089/294-001). 268. and.50 (65¢) for children.m. Marienplatz Altstadt This large pedestrian-only square in the heart of the Altstadt also is the old heart of Munich. The tower is open Monday to Friday from 9 a. 0. Only its landmark twin onion-domed towers from 1525 remained standing. tower 3€ ($3. to 7 p. See map p. To the right of the Neues Rathaus stands the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall).m. was a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of World War II (WWII).. because many of the city’s attractions are clustered in the vicinity.m. Admission: Church free. with its plain.

an audio tour in English is free with your admission. Artists whose works are on view include Thomas Gainsborough.–5 p. See map p. but you have to climb (and climb and climb) 306 steps to see it.50€ ($2) adults.m.-Jakobs-Platz 1.m. Not quite as daunting as the nearby Alte Pinakothek. Admission: Tues–Sat 5.m. Caspar David Friedrich.–6 p. Closed major holidays. Mundita. % 089/2380-5195. Francesco Goya. 4€ ($5) students and seniors.50) students and children 6–15. See map p. is known locally as Old Pete. among many others. Children love the third-floor collection of marionettes and hand puppets from around the world and the gallery of fairground art.–6 p.–7 p. Joshua Reynolds. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. (Wed until 10 p. (Nov–Mar until 7 p. Admission: Church free. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2minute walk south on Rindermarkt). The second-floor photo museum traces the early history of the camera back to 1839. (Nov–Mar until 6 p. Sun 1€ ($1.).). frescoes. and a bizarre relic in the second chapel (on the left): the gem-studded skeleton of St. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Rindermarkt and Oberanger). tower 1. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. Vincent van Gogh.m. The museum’s one must-see exhibit is the Moriskentanzer (Moorish dancers).m. William Turner. starting right around 1800. The interior of the church contains baroque-era sculptures. You find a cafeteria in the museum’s main courtyard.50€ ($7) adults. Barer Strasse 27 (across Theresienstrasse from the Alte Pinakothek). Neue Pinakothek Museum Quarter Housed in a postmodern building from 1981.25). Sun 10 a. St.m. Peterskirche (St. 268. Rindermarkt 1.m. Open: Wed–Mon 10 a. % 089/260-4828. A tour of the highlights takes a couple of hours.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Münchner Stadtmuseum (Munich City Museum) Altstadt 273 This museum chronicles Munich’s history and the everyday lives of its residents. You get a splendid view from the top. this museum still contains plenty to see. this museum is a showcase for 19th-century German and European art. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. remodeled during the baroque era. free on Sun. and Paul Gauguin.75 (95¢) students. See map p. Peter’s Church) Altstadt The bell tower of this 13th-century Gothic church.). % 089/2332-2370. which includes the oldest-known carousel horses. 268.m. .m. 0.m. 268. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). featuring ten carved and brightly painted 15th-century wooden figures. dating from 1820. 2€ ($2. who stares at you with two false eyes in her skull.m.

Residenztheater 3€ ($3. Residenz (Royal Palace) Altstadt This magnificent building was the official residence of the Wittelsbach family. See map p. Kirchner. laid out between 1613 and 1617. and others. Giacometti. Design) Museum Quarter Munich’s newest museum. Kandinsky. Ernst.75) adults. the Museum of Architecture.–5 p. In 1702. 268. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (the palace is on the same square as the theater).274 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of Modern Art. % 089/2380-5360.m.m. 5€ ($6. displaying major 20th-century classics by internationally known artists including Matisse. The most important is the Staatsgalerie moderner Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art). from 1385 to 1918.m. Guided tours (in German): Daily 10 a. Admission: Combined ticket for Residenz Museum and Schatzkammer 9€ ($11) adults. % 089/290-671.– 6 p. Added to and rebuilt through the centuries. Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) Nymphenburg Schloss Nymphenburg. the Schatzkammer (Treasury). which was almost totally destroyed in WWII. opened in September 2002. (Thurs–Fri until 8 p. Gris. and the Altes Residenztheater. Open: Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. you . On the north side of the palace is the Italianate Hofgarten (Court Garden). Artisans painstakingly restored the Residenz.m. 268. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (the palace is southeast across the square).m. Max-Joseph-Platz 3. including German and Florentine Renaissance. Architecture. The other collections include the Neue Sammlung (Craft and Design Collection).25) for students 10–18. a stunning rococo theater. 8€ ($10) students and children.m. You enter both the Residenz Museum and the Schatzkammer from Max-Joseph-Platz on the south side of the palace. with arts and furnishings displayed in some 130 rooms. Elector Max Emanuel decided to enlarge the original Italianate villa by adding four large pavilions connected by arcaded passageways. free for children younger than 10. the palace is a compendium of various architectural styles.). the rulers of Bavaria. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museums are across the street). The palace was begun in 1664 and took more than 150 years to complete. Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. 2€ ($2. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. See map p. Barer Strasse 40. the Wittelsbachs’ summer residence.–4 p.m.m.50) students and children. You find four collections housed inside..m. Picasso. Admission: 9€ ($11) adults. the Pinakothek der Moderne. From central Munich. free admission on Sun. is one of the most sophisticated and beautiful palaces in Europe. and the Graphische Sammlung (Graphics Collection). The must-sees are the Residenz Museum. and Palladian. Closed major holidays. with three centuries’ worth of accumulated treasures. and 12:30 p.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 275 The Residenz Hofgartenstrasse State Collection of Egyptian Art Fourshaft Room Court Garden Wing Stone Room Wing Trier Wing Festival Hall Building Entrance Hall Bavarian Academy of Science Battle Room Wing To w Chapel Courtyard er B ui ld in g Hercules Chest Ladies’ Floor Coin Collection Imperial Courtyard Apothecaries’ Courtyard Ground Floor Nibelungen Rooms 1 Theater Floor Imperial Hall or r Corrid Theatine Stone Room Trier Corridor Trier Room Papal Rooms Rooms Upper Floor 1 Entrance to Residenz Museum denz Old Resi ße Antler Corridor Grotto Courtyard Ancestoral Gallery Royal Building Courtyard Old Foyer Residenz Foyer Theater Fountain Courtyard Apothecaries’ Wing Wittelsbach Cabinet Garden Fountain Ruins of All Saints Courtyard Church Kitchen Courtyard m riu ua iq nt A Re si de nz Marstallplatz st ra t Vestmen Rooms Treasury Royal Building Max-Joseph-Platz New Residenz Theater New Hercules Room Charlotte Corridor tt lo ar Ch en t ak tr ’s st ür rf Ku g in sW om Ro Rich Ludwig I’s Rooms Porcelain Gallery Battle Rooms .

with an 18th-century swimming pool. to 5 p. decorated in a vibrant splash of rococo colors and stuccowork. where you find a dazzling collection of ornate. the interior salons are a riot of flamboyant colors. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection. Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. Admission: Palace grounds free. Stieler (1827–1850). Prettiest of all the buildings in the park is Amalienburg.m. Fluted columns lining the center aisle support the arched ceiling of the nave. % 089/179-080.m. this church is Munich’s finest example of Italian baroque architecture. In the English-style park.. decorated in the Chinese style that was all the rage in the 18th century. the Pagodenburg. In the south pavilion. and wall paintings. and the Magdalenenklause (Hermitage). Dark wooden pews and a canopied pulpit provide the only color in the all-white interior.–4 p. a group of Roman Catholic clergy. swirling stuccowork. Inside. 16. admission to all attractions 10€ ($13) adults.m. A canal runs through 500-acre Schlosspark. Badenburg and Magdalenenklause closed Oct 16–Mar 30. 268. entrance across from the Marstallmuseum) contains superb pieces of 18th-century porcelain. the raven-haired dancer whose affair with Ludwig caused a scandal. The church was begun by Italian architects in 1663 and was completed by German court architects about a century later. French-style gardens. including miniature porcelain copies of masterpieces in the Alte Pinakothek. 8€ ($10) seniors. Every surface appears to be loaded with dollops of fanciful white stuccowork.276 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany can easily reach the palace by tram in about 20 minutes. built in 1734 as a hunting lodge for Electress Amalia. has a sales room and exhibition center open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a. you come first to the Great Hall. To the south of the palace buildings. Theatinerkirche (Church of the Theatines) Altstadt Named for the Theatines. Tram: 12. A factory on the grounds of Schloss Nymphenburg still produces the famous Nymphenburg porcelain. you find Ludwig I’s famous Gallery of Beauties with paintings by J. or 17 to Romanplatz (then a 10-minute walk west to the palace entrance). The beauties include Schöne Münchnerin (Lovely Munich Girl) and a portrait of Lola Montez. See map p. including those used by Ludwig II. Porzellan-Manufaktur-Nymphenburg. full of quiet meadows and forested paths. The dome above the transept is decorated with an ornate gallery of large statues. gilded coaches and sleighs. you find the Badenburg Pavilion. meant to be a retreat for prayer and solitude.m.–6 p.m.m. Nördliches Schlossrondell 8 (% 089/179-1970). is the Marstallmuseum. . You need at least half a day to explore the buildings and grounds. Schloss Nymphenburg 1. free for children younger than 7. stretching all the way to the so-called grand cascade at the far end of the formal. in the rectangular block of low structures that once housed the court stables. 8km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. Open: Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a.

a whole section of bakeries stocked with dozens of different kinds of Bavarian breads and rolls. A joint ticket to the Museum of Antiquities and the neighboring Glyptothek (included later in this list) is 6€ ($7. Heiliggeiststrasse on the east.m.25) for everyone. Wed).m.m. or other beverage at the beer-garden drink stand.– 1 p. water. Admission: Free.m. and in other outdoor food markets throughout Germany. 268. you find two dozen butcher shops.m. and Tal on the north. weekdays or until 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. close to Marienplatz. remember two points: Do not touch the merchandise (doing so is against German food laws) and don’t try to bargain for lower prices (prices are not negotiable). on Sendlinger Strasse (% 089/260-9357.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 277 See map p. the Viktualienmarkt has been serving Munich residents for nearly 200 years and is a wonderful place to stroll and sniff and take in the scene. (until 8 p. and dozens of produce stalls. is a remarkable rococo church built by the Asam brothers between 1733 and 1746. Open: Mon–Fri 10 a. .50€ ($3) for students and seniors. Most of the permanent stands open at 6 a. fish Here are some additional places to visit as you explore the city. five cheese sellers.. ߜ The Asamkirche.m. Frauen Strasse to the south. Sat 10 a. % 089/210-6960. U-/S-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor). U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 2-minute walk south on Theatinerstrasse). and 1:30–4:30 p.50). Finding more cool things to see and do Munich has many important churches and museums in addition to those described in the preceding sections.antike-am-koenigsplatz. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk southeast through the square).mwn. See map p. Bounded by Prälat-Zistl-Strasse on the west. Viktualienmarkt (Produce Market) Altstadt Located on the square of the same name. 268. on Sunday. The museum’s five main-floor halls house more than 650 Greek vases.m. You can buy food at the market stalls and eat it in the beer garden if you buy a beer. The Viktualienmarkt has a large beer garden. wine merchants. a soda. www. Saturdays. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). Theatinerstrasse 22. and stay open until 6 p. 2. it’s 1€ ($1.–3 p. At the Viktualienmarkt. Königsplatz 1 (% 089/599-888-30.C. from a pre-Mycenaean version carved in 3000 B.m. In an area the size of a city block. from a mussel shell to large Greek and Etruscan vases. Multicolored marbles.50) for adults. is an essential stop for anyone interested in ancient art.50€ ($4. ߜ The Antikensammlungen (Museum of Antiquities).

ߜ The Michaelskirche (St. Tours depart at 10 and 11 a. is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps.). exhibits Germany’s largest collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. is open daily from 9 a. and 1.m. They also run guided tours to the castle of Neuschwanstein. a third spends time in the Alte Pinakothek (Tues–Sun at 10 a.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Seeing Munich by Guided Tour You have two choices for orientation bus tours. including concerts. and 4 p. 3. sits at the northwestern edge of Munich and is a small city unto itself. and 5 p. to 10 p..). take place at the colossal 69.m. Here you find sixth-century-B.m.278 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany gold leaf. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). 19€ ($23) city tours that. Thurs). The extraordinary view reaches all the way to the Alps.autobusoberbayern. 2:30.000-seat stadium. .m. in addition to the city orientation tour.m.10) for children younger than 16. A ticket for a ride to the top costs 4€ ($5) for adults and 2. 2. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 a. Various events.m. The one-hour Stadtrundfahrt (city sightseeing tour) by Panorama Tours (% 089-54907560.m. to 7 p. www. Panorama also offers 21⁄2-hour.. daily (Apr–Oct also at 11:30 a. (until 8 p. site of the 1972 Olympic is a straightforward affair — just hop on in front of the Hauptbahnhof and buy your 11€ ($13) ticket onboard. Michael’s Church). 2. U-Bahn: Olympiazentrum). the Glyptothek. One visits Schloss Nymphenburg (daily at 2:30 p. the 293m-high (960-ft.50) for adults.25).m. a single-nave church with a barrel-vaulted ceiling completed in 1597.C.m..) television tower in the center of the park. The church is open daily from 8 a.m. Königsplatz 3 (% 089/286-100. everyone gets in for 1€ ($1.50€ ($4. to 5:30 p. ߜ Olympiapark (% 089/3067-2414.m. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3.m. spend some time exploring a single site with a guide. to 5 p.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. and silver cover every square inch of this small rectangular church with rounded ends.50€ ($3. kouroi (statues of youths). plus another at 10 a. and a haunting collection of Roman portraits.m. ߜ Located across from the Antikensammlungen (see the first entry in this list). another goes to the Olympic Area where you can climb its 960-foot Olympic Tower (daily at 2:30 p. Neuhauserstrasse 52 (% 089/231-7060.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). a colossal Sleeping Satyr from the Hellenistic period. noon.m.). Sunday from 6:45 a. to midnight. on Sunday. Olympiaturm (% 089/3067-2750). Apr–Oct).

parts of the KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau (Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial). September to November 10 and March to April 15. there’s also a 5:15 p. Prisoners died through work. followed soon after by “beggars. The first to arrive were political prisoners (Communists and Social Democrats). are a great way to find out about Munich’s history and architecture. Dachau did not have gas chambers. 19km (12 miles) northwest of Munich. www. you can tour Munich by bicycle with the English-speaking ex-pats at Mike’s Bike Tours (% 089/2554-3988 or 0172/852-0660. but displays showing prisoners’ faces and videos of survivor interviews put a very human face on the horrific pain and suffering endured by these ordinary citizens. shortly after Hitler became German chancellor. Jehovah’s Witnesses. The names of many of the dead are not known. admission is free. and 4 p. hunger. tour. you pay the guide (identifiable by a yellow sign). The 21⁄4-hour City Walk Tour starts daily at 10:45 a. February through November. under the tower of the Altes Rathaus on The company offers several options. more than 206. All tours meet 15 minutes before setting off.” “antisocial elements.. April 16 through August. after disinfecting. Himmler ordered the first German concentration camp to be set up in Dachau. and then transfer to bus 724 or 726 to the camp. conducted in English. and more than 32.m. Between 1933 and 1945. In 2002.m. lasting about .munich walktours.mikesbiketours. 24€ ($29) spins around the sights of central Munich (including 45 minutes in a beer garden).000 died.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 279 Dachau: Germany’s first concentration camp In 1933.m.. www.000 prisoners arrived (the exact number is unknown). Mike’s offers four-hour. growing numbers of Jews.m. they were given a striped prison uniform.m.m. Inscribed boards show the rooms’ original conditions and functions. No need to at 11:30 a. Captions are in German and English. take S-Bahn train S2 from the Hauptbahnhof to Dachau (direction: Petershausen). after 1938. the meeting point for all walks is the New Rathaus directly under the Glockenspiel on Marienplatz. disease. For a more active experience.” homosexuals. to 5 p. Visitors now follow the route of the prisoners. Hitler’s Munich. In June and July. The camp is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a. Alte-Roemar-Strasse 75 (% 08131/1741). To get to the camp. and where. and. The daily tours leave at 2:30 p. were redesigned to focus on the fate of the prisoners and to integrate the still-existing historic buildings into the reworked permanent exhibition. and mass executions by shooting. enter rooms in which citizens were stripped of all their belongings and rights.m. Munich Walk Tours (% 0171/274-0204.

Marienplatz 11 (% 089/236-910. and Theatinestrasse. Marienplatz at Christmas Marienplatz. is Munich’s best department store and a good place to shop for handmade crafts from all across Germany. or Christmas Market. sugarcoated almonds. Sometimes called “the Bloomingdale’s of Germany. is the scene of a famous Christkindl Markt. General shopping is less pricey on and around Marienplatz and along the main pedestrian streets Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauser Strasse. handicrafts. On these streets. Antiques devotees with deep pockets find what they want on Ottostrasse. Bogner. you find branches of all the top European couturiers and Germany’s and Munich’s own designers: Jil Sander. including gingerbread. jackets. and handicrafts. allpurpose department store. free for children younger than 14. Dirndls (traditional German dresses). is a good. and when the topic is shopping.” Ludwig Beck am Rathauseck. and piping hot Glühwein. Maximilianstrasse (which also has the leading art galleries). a spiced red wine. fruitcakes.280 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 21⁄2 hours. The best streets for elegant boutiques and specialty shops are Briennerstrasse. and a mouthwatering array of traditional snacks and sweets. across from the main train station. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). smoked meats. is the place for all kinds of high-quality loden (a waterproof wool) wear. . From late November through December. Hertie’s. the plaza overflows with stalls selling toys. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). folk art. Maffeistrasse. and Rudolph Moshammer. Am Platzl 1/Sparkassenstrasse 10 (% 089/220-163. Max Dietl. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). Bahnhofplatz 7 (% 089/55120. tree ornaments. and hats. The cost for each tour is 10€ ($13 for adults). has a large selection of high-quality Bavarian costumes. Dirndl-Ecke. 9€ ($11) for those younger than 26. The biggest concentration of shops selling secondhand goods is on Westenriederstrasse. Loden-Frey. Shopping for Local Treasures Munich is the fashion capital of Germany. Maffeistrasse 7–9 (% 089/210-390. covers all the important facts and sites that played a role in Munich’s Nazi era. This city is not one in which you’re likely to find many bargains. the main square of the inner city. Joop. founded in 1842. Munich ranks right up there with Paris and London. however. such as coats.

Tram: 19) performs from midSeptember to July in the Philharmonic Hall in the Gasteig Kulturzentrum (Cultural Center). U-Bahn: Universität). S-Bahn: Isartor). and enjoy the local scene. Bars and cafes Café Extrablatt. To find out what’s playing.bayerische. Altes Residenztheater (Cuvilliés Theater. Rosenheimerstrasse 5 (% 089/5481-8181. Friday and Saturday from 9 a.m. Nightclubs in is one of the world’s great opera companies. Residenzstrasse 1 (% 089/ 2185-1940. The club hours are .) You also find plenty of bars and dance clubs for late-night partying.. smoke-filled hangout for writers. the jewel-box rococo theater in the Residenz (see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z.muenchnerphilharmoniker. S-Bahn: Rosenheimerplatz). to 1 a. Leopoldstrasse 7 (% 089/333-333. Checking out bars and clubs Cafes are quiet in the afternoon but pick up noise and steam as the evening wears on. The cafe is open Monday through Thursday from 8 a.” earlier in this chapter) also is an important performance venue for plays and operas. Havana Club. you can sit with a coffee or a drink and order light meals or pastries. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Few cities in Europe can rival Munich for the sheer number of musical and theatrical events. www.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 281 Discovering Nightlife in Munich Something always is going on in Munich.m. to midnight. is a lively singles bar fueled by rum-based cocktails. pick up a copy of Monatsprogramm (1. In a cafe. to midnight. is a sprawling. Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (Tram 19). Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera. as in the rest of the world.m. www. called a Kasse.m. Herrnstrasse 30 (% 089/291-884. Performances of both opera and ballet take place in the National Theater. which generally is open during the day and an hour before the performance.50€/$2) from one of the tourist offices. The best way to purchase tickets is to go directly to the venue’s box office. and Sunday from 9 a. The famous Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra. and the occasional celeb. or midnight. have a beer. tend to get going around 11 p. artists. As southern Germany’s cultural capital. (See “The best beer gardens” earlier in this chapter. Munich is renowned for its opera and symphony concerts and theater.m. But you can sit back in a leafy beer garden or in a beer hall. % 089/2185-1920.

restaurants. Emergencies For emergency medical aid. to 3 a.m.m. offers expensive cocktails.m.m. You can move from venue to venue according to your interest.times-square. Nachtcafé.m. Schumanns American Bar. to 1 a.m. blues. to 3 a. If you get hungry there is a restaurant on the premises. All the bars open by 8 p. use 089. to 1 a.m. to 6 a. Promenadeplatz 6 (% 089/2280-1465.m.m. City Code The city telephone code for Munich is 089.m.m. The place is open daily from 9 p.m. to 12:30 p. (don’t show up before then). www. to 11:30 p. Kunstpark Ost.m. If you’re within Germany but not in Munich. Tram: 49). Master’s Home. call % 112. Nightclubs Set within an old factory.m. No cover Charles Schumann. Grafingerstrasse 6 (% 089/ 4900-2730.m. Business Hours See the appendix for details.m. For the fire department. is open for mail pickup and check cashing Monday through Friday from 9 a. and bar. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof). writers. Internet Access Times Square Online Bistro in the Hauptbahnhof. is one of the most happening nightspots in Munich. and stage shows (which begin at 11 p. and waves of “ordinary” patrons to its bar.m. Tram 19). a bistro. Cover ranges from 4€ to 8€ ($5–$10). If you’re calling within Munich. The bar is open Sunday through Friday from 5 p. 36 Maximilianstrasse (% 089/229-060. mixed and/or invented by the owner. is done up like an Edwardian-era London club and attracts an eclectic assortment of locals and tourists. the music is jazz. if you’re looking for a chic spot. Fast Facts: Munich American Express American Express. Bayerstrasse side (% 089/ 5508-8000. attracting soccer stars. has computer workstations. is a complex of bars. and is open daily from 7:30 a. and dance clubs.).m. Tram: 19). movie stars. Maximilianplatz 5 (% 089/595-900. The décor is updated 1950s.m. The club is open nightly from 6 p. or for the police. and Saturday from 9:30 a. See also “Telephone” in the appendix. Frauenstrasse 11 (% 089/229-909.282 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Monday through Wednesday from 6 p. call % 110. . and Thursday through Saturday from 7 p. Currency Exchange You can exchange money at the currency exchange in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) daily from 6 a. and soul. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). to 2 a. this is it. to 6 p.m. restaurant. Use 89 if you’re calling Munich from outside Germany. discos start around 10:30 p. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number.

.m.. like all big cities.m. Neuhauserstrasse 11 (% 089/260-3021.. Saturday from 8 a. to 8 p.m. restaurants. to 4 p.m. Post Office The Postamt München (main post office) is across from the Hauptbahnhof. and Sunday from 9 a. The office is open Monday through Friday from 7 is the best site for general information. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. You find more information on Munich and Bavaria at www. Transit Assistance For information on the U-Bahn and trams. and Saturday from 9 283 Safety Munich.m. and beer halls throughout the Altstadt.m. to 4 p. a drugstore where English is spoken. at Bahnhofplatz 1 (% 089/599-0870). especially pickpocketing and purseand camera-snatching. call the public-transportation authority. MVV. such as Marienplatz and the Hauptbahnhof. Restrooms You find restrooms in cafes. to 8 p.m. to 3 p.m. Most robberies occur in the much-frequented tourist areas. has its share of crime. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz).Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Pharmacies International Ludwig’s Apotheke. Web Sites The tourist office Web site (www.m.m. at % 089/4142-4344 or visit their Web site (www.

historic buildings. Bavaria abounds with romantic villages. world-class ski and winter-sports resorts. or Romantic Road. the fairy-tale castle of Ludwig II ᮣ Visiting the alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen ᮣ Day-tripping to Oberammergau and Schloss Linderhof lthough Bavaria’s recorded history dates back some 1. Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. when a German republic replaced the Bavarian monarchy.Chapter 16 Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring the medieval towns along the Romantic Road ᮣ Discovering Neuschwanstein.” they mean only one: Ludwig II. gently rises through foothills covered with verdant pastures. Brief as it was. and nature on a grand scale. Visitors find a great deal to enjoy in this mountainous region in addition to Ludwig’s castles. by order of Napoleon.100 years. Upper Bavaria (Oberbayern). Ludwig’s castles mark the end of the Romantische Strasse. When they speak wistfully about “the king. A . the southernmost part of Germany. the region didn’t become a kingdom until 1806. many Bavarians still regard that royal era with nostalgia.” depending on your interpretation) whose castles at Linderhof and Neuschwanstein draw millions of visitors. lake-splashed countryside. houses with fancifully painted facades. rococo churches. the legendary “dream king” (or “mad king. will give you a taste of what Bavaria has to offer. one of Germany’s most beautiful scenic drives and one of the best ways to sample the delights of Bavaria. and groves of evergreens to the dramatic heights of the Alps that divide Germany and western Austria. Bavaria remained a kingdom until 1918. both easy daytrips from Munich.

fear dikh). visit the Romantic Road’s Web site (www. and remained so until Napoleon ended the power of the church in 1802. winding from the vineyard-clad hills surrounding Würzburg south to the green alpine pastures and craggy forested peaks around Neuschwanstein Castle. the old city center with its leafy squares and historic buildings. The two sights of most . The major towns for overnight stays are Würzburg. renting a car at Frankfurt airport (Chapter 20) is easy.” Goodbye is für Gott (for God. were also princes of Franconia. Though today it’s part of Bavaria. The bishops of Würzburg. The saying means.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 285 Greetings from Bavaria In Bavaria. all of which I describe later in this chapter. or Romantic Road. For more information. Würzburg: Franconian Fortress Würzburg on the River Main is a lovely. The charms of this old. fear got) or für dich (for you. Würzburg was in ancient times an important town in the duchy of Franconia. roughly. you can hit all the highlights. lively university town surrounded by miles of vineyards. it would be Bavaria’s Romantische Strasse. In three or four days of very easy driving. which spread across southcentral Germany. (See “The Romantic Road” map in this chapter. graceful river and wine town are most obvious in the Altstadt. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. From The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria If I had to recommend only one scenic drive in Germany. and Füssen.romantischestrasse. many of them rebuilt after World War II (WWII). You also can visit these towns by train as daytrips from Munich or Frankfurt. travelers enjoy an unfolding panorama of surprisingly beautiful rural landscapes interspersed with a host of small medieval cities. the official start of the Romantic Road.) If you’re arriving in Frankfurt. From Munich (Chapter 15) you can drive 119km (74 miles) southwest to Füssen and drive the route in reverse. you can drive southeast 119km (74 miles) to Würzburg. people generally use the greeting grüss Gott (pronounced grease got) rather than guten Morgen (good morning) or guten Tag (good day). “God greets you. Augsburg. who took possession of the town in 1050. Driving these 290km (180 miles) of specially marked lanes and secondary roads.

97070 Würzburg (% 0931/ 35170. (See the “Würzburg” map in this chapter. to 2 p. American Express. Staying in Würzburg Greifensteiner Hof. and the Festung Marienburg. Munich (21⁄2 hours) and Visa are accepted. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information on the city. is a charming 40-room hotel right in the heart of the Altstadt behind the Marienkirche. take the A3 southeast and follow the signs to Würzburg. Dettelbachergasse 2 (% 09861/87809). www. and Visa are accepted.bahn.m.greifensteiner-hof. Try fresh fish in Riesling wine sauce.).de). to 3 p.m. American Express. breakfast included. is a lovely place to sit outside on a warm evening and dine on Franconian specialties of the Würzburg area.) Getting there If you come by car from Frankfurt. to 2 p.m. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. MasterCard. The medium-sized rooms are decorated in an unobtrusive contemporary style and have good-sized bathrooms with tub and shower. is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. in the Hotel Greifensteiner Hof (described in the preceding section). A standard double room goes for 60€ to 90€ ($75–$112) per night. fruity Franconian wines of the region go well with anything. modern hotel within easy walking distance of the Altstadt. with nice designer touches and a smallish bathroom. to 6 p. their earlier fortress-castle high on a hill overlooking the town.maritim. or Zwiebelkuchen (zwee-bel-kook-en. Main courses range from 8€ to 18€ ($10–$22). American Express. light. with the big buffet breakfast an additional 15€ ($19). MasterCard. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday 11 a. and Sundays April through October from 10 a. . Finding information The tourist information office. and Sunday 11 a.286 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany interest to tourists are the Residenz. Maritim Hotel Würzburg. www. www. Each room is different. herring filets with apples. Diners Club.m. Marktplatz 9 (% 0931/37-23-98. MasterCard. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/30530. The fresh.m.). Diners Club. an onion tart). or anywhere else in Dining in Würzburg The Fränkische Stuben. Saturday from 10 a.m. (Jan–Mar until 1 p. Diners Club. to midnight. is a pleasant. the baroque palace of the princebishops. You can easily reach Würzburg by train from Frankfurt (11⁄2 hours). Pleichortorstrasse 5. Rack rates for a double room run from 100€ to 210€ ($125–$262). (Jan–Mar until 4 p. and Visa are accepted. and pickles in sour cream. For train information. Dettelbachergasse 2. onions.m. wuerzburg. roasted meats.

Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 287 The Romantic Road Schweinfurt Aschaffenburg E41 E45 0 20 mi Bamberg 0 Bamberg 20 km Wiesentheid 3 E43 8 E45 73 Würzburg rzburg Werthelm 47 RO A D RO M AN TI C Castle Church Forchheim Erlangen 27 Mittenberg Amorbach 27 Tauberbischofsheim Lauda-k nigshofen Lauda-königshofen Röttingham ttingham 290 Creglingen 25 Bad Mergentheim Weikersheim Weikersheim Fürth rth Nürnberg rnberg Herrgottskirche HO H OH HE ENLO N LOH H E R EB E BE ENE E50 O.T.T. Schillingf rst Schillingfürst Ansbach Schwabach Roth 2 KIS 2 Heilbronn Murrhardt Backnang Winnenden 29 Crailsheim E43 25 Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl Ellingen CH E45 Feuchtwangen Gunzenhousen Gunzenhausen 19 Wallerstein Aalen 29 Schwabisch Schwäbisch Gmünd Gm nd rdlingen Nördlingen 25 ALB Harburg 16 FR Ingolstadt Neuberg-ander-Donau Donauw rth Donauwörth AD RO AD RO AN CC M TITI RO AN M RO 16 16 Ellwangen (Jagst) UC H Heidenheim an der Brenz Goppingen Kirchheim unter Teck E52 E43 28 Nürtingen rtingen 28 Dillingen an der Donau AN Ä 300 Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Munich 2 Ulm Augsburg 17 E A LB To Munich E52 E50 Ehingen (Donau) 30 E43 312 Friedberg Area of detail Krumbach (Schwaben) Olching Fürstenfeldbruck rstenfeldbruck Landsberg E54 am Lech TIC ROAD ROMAN Biberach an der Riß Ri 312 E54 Mindelheim Herbertingen 32 30 Landsberg 17 Memmingen Kaufbeuren Leutkirch im Allgäu Allg Kempten Immenstadt im Allgäu Allg Lindau Sonthofen Diessen Ammersee Starnberg Herrsching Hohenfurch Hohen B2 Starnbergersee E533 Weingarten Ravensburg E43/54 Markt.D.d.Schongau oberdorf Wildsteig Bo Wangen im Allgäu Allg de ns ee Peiting Rottenbuch Murnau Steingaden Wieskirche Wies Oberammergau Wies Schwangau 17 Neuschwanstein Walchen Hohenschwangau Walchensee Penzberg Füssen ssen B11 SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA LEC ER EN AL L P HT A GarmischPartenkirchen Zugspitze . Rothenburg o.

the liveliest square in Würzburg. mozartfest-wuerzburg. Crowning the high slope on the west side of the Main is the Festung Marienburg (Marienburg Fortress. call % 0931/37-23-36 or visit the festival’s Web site (www. the 345-room Residenz. % 09317/20-59-40). The most important areas to visit are the vaulted Treppenhaus.–4 p. reached by crossing the late-15th-century Alte Mainbrücke (Old Main Bridge) and following the marked footpath (you can also take the no. Behind the palace. and. and 3 p. Marienburg Fortress is a huge complex of buildings that includes within its walls the eighthcentury Marienkirche (St.288 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankish foods with an occasional French twist are served at the atmospheric Ratskeller Wü–$19). begun in 1040 and rebuilt after extensive damage in WWII. the Hofkirche. which takes place during the first three weeks in June. For more information on this popular event.). and Visa are accepted. MasterCard. for local transportation information call % 0931/36-13-52 or visit www. was completed in 1744 by architect Balthasar Neuman for Prince-Bishop Johann von Schönborn. just north of it. with a ceiling covered by a huge fresco with mythological allegories painted by Tiepolo. Langgasse 1 (% 0931/13021). Guided tours in English are given daily at 11 a.m. Many of the concerts by renowned musicians are performed in the beautiful baroque rooms of the Residenz. or stairway. which will take you right up to the gate. where main courses range from 6€ to 15€ ($7. American Express.50). up to the Festung Marienburg. Now a UNESCO World Heritage 9. perhaps. admission is 4.m. is open daily from noon to midnight. Exploring Würzburg The town is compact enough so that you can walk everywhere — except. accessible by a scenic footpath up or bus no. the Marktplatz (Market Square). Kilian. Mary’s Church). Considered one of the most important palaces in Europe and a masterpiece of the baroque era. also is worth visiting. Residenzplatz 2 (% 0931/35-51-70). and the Weisser Saal (White Hall) and Gartensaal (Garden Room).wvv.m. you come to the Romanesque Dom (Cathedral) St. Following Hofstrasse west from the Residenz.m.50). A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2.m. Homemade sausage mixed with fried potatoes and eggs. One of the annual highlights of Würzburg’s cultural year is the Mozart Festival. (Nov–Mar 10 a. with tables on the square in good weather. or court garden. you come to the Rathaus. 9 bus from the Residenz). Domstrasse (% 0931/3211830). The Residenz is open daily from 9 a. both slathered with a riot of fanciful stucco work. or roast beef with fried onions and potatoes make for filling feasts.m. the formal and elegant Hofgarten. Continuing west on Domstrasse from the cathedral. to 6 p. The restaurant. a court chapel with colored marble columns and two important altar paintings by Tiepolo.50€ ($5. one of the oldest churches .

H e i nes tr. Ot tr. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. the Romantic Road leaves the River Main and follows Route 27 in a southwesterly direction to the town of Tauberbischofsheim Ka N erg sstr. Pro Neum me nad anne Renn weg 7 MAINVIERTEL Saalgasse ALTSTADT Dom 5 er s chu lstr . - Re nn tr. Würzburg Munich Hauge rring . and the Mainfränkisches Museum. to 5 p. rone eik Dr Th r te ea Karmelitenstr Mai nkai . . str genrin Koell Hauptbahnhof (train station) Rönt g erst r. Neue Universität g rrin de San rich Fried tos E b ter g Rin Südbahnhof en s d tr.m. Kilian) Rathaus n ai Alte M 4 Domstr. rst ine z u tr. tpo Lui lds tr. the great Gothic master woodcarver (see the nearby sidebar).m. nstr. Sand l a ci nts 0 1/8 mile Ludwigsbrücke Am tenden Stu haus Fr ie tr. Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg From Würzburg. 0 125 meters ACCOMMODATIONS and DINING Fränkische Stuben 2 Greifensteiner Hof 2 Maritim Hotel Würzburg 1 Ratskeller Würzburg 3 ATTRACTIONS Alte Mainbrücke 4 Dom 6 Festung Marienburg & Mainfrankisches Museum 5 Residenz 7 in Germany. The one must-see attraction in this local history collection is the room devoted to the carved wooden sculptures of Tilman Riemenschneider. Juliusspital Schönbornstr. Alte Universität Bal HOFGARTEN Burkarder Tor Leistenstr.m. e ls m m e S Kr o a t e n g a sse Platz r. str . (until 4 p. 6 brücke . San der str.50€ ($2) students.75) adults. wi gs r. r Augustinerst Büttnerstr. in winter). str d Lu weger Ring kai nen Kra n Mai 1 Juliu s e enad prom tr. Kais sden Frie rücke b ikerst 2 th.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 289 i Würzburg Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Information er im he ch hö its Ve . 1. Z e l l er S i Dom Altes 3 (St. Marktplatz Ka p E ic h h n or .Berliner Wörthstr. admission is 3€ ($3. Neubaustr.

290 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Tilman Riemenschneider: Würzburg’s master woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531)..20€ ($1.m. He died shortly after being released from prison. As a result of his political views.m. dating from 1389. where you pick up B290 to Bad Mergentheim. to 5:30 p. It’s interesting . this master woodcarver sided with the rebels and incurred the implacable wrath of the prince-bishops. within the palace complex.–5 p. admission is 1. (Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 2–5 p. This small. It quickly became a place of pilgrimage. The church is open daily from 9:15 a. The town. is open Tuesday through Sunday 10:30 a. the only museum in the world devoted to the history of thimbles. During the Peasants’ Revolt of 1525. just 51km (32 miles) southeast of Würzburg. . Another 18km (11 miles) on B19 brings you to Creglingen. .m.m.m. the master woodcarver from Würzburg. admission is 1. serving as both a councilor and mayor. located on a signposted road about 2km (11⁄2 miles) south of Creglingen in Herrgottstal. Across the road from the church is the small Fingerhutmuseum (Thimble Museum. Sun 10:30 a.m. you buy your ticket at a machine outside the church. described in the “Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg” section of this chapter.80€ ($4.90). created an extraordinarily beautiful altar with figures representing the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin framed by scenes from her life. worth a stop to see the famous carved wooden altar by Tilman Riemenschneider in the Herrgottskirche.. the Deutschordensmuseum (Teutonic Knights Museum. Devoted to armor and weaponry. was built where a farmer plowing his fields claimed to have found a sacred host. attractive spa town is worth a stop to stroll along its pretty cobbled streets and to have a quick look at the Deutschordenschloss. You can see more work by this great artist at the Herrgottskirche near Creglingen on the Romantic Road. % 07931/52212). is one of the major highlights along the Romantic Road. a palace used by royal princes and the medieval order of Teutonic Knights.m. if you’re into that sort of thing. has been a tourist destination for nearly a century. Riemenschneider. The church.m.50€ ($1..75) adults. to 5 p. whose incredibly expressive wood sculptures are the highlight of the Mainfränkisches Museum. admission is 3. % 07933/370). lived and worked in Würzburg for 48 years.m. and 2 to 5 p. and from . Riemenschneider was imprisoned and tortured.m. 47km (29 miles) south of Würzburg. 1. and between 1505 and 1510. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. to 12:30 p. Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories Rothenburg.50) for children 6 to 12.50€ ($1.). a completely intact walled medieval city located on a high promontory above the Tauber River.90).

de). (See the “Rothenburg ob der Tauber” map in this chapter.bahn. continue south from Creglingen on B290. Heidelberg.-Jakobskirche 3 e N a ug sse Ci Hamburg 12 ga eng W ty sse wa Berlin G E R MA NY am Main 11 Kirche Burg gas se Al a St dt t e gr a be MarktFranziskaner platz n 9 Rödergasse ll Frankfurt Cit y wall 13 T Heilig-GeistKirche 0 Spitalgasse Rothenburg ob der Tauber Munich ub Church Information 1/8 mile 125 meters i N ACCOMODATIONS Burghotel 4 Hotel Eisenhut 10 14 0 May through September you’ll likely encounter hordes of visitors. You also can reach Rothenburg by train from Nuremberg.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 291 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Ci 1 ty wall Bezold weg Kling enschutt Ro se e ngas Kling 3 5 Schrannenplatz Ju d e n gass e 2 G 4 e alg nga sse sen ga sse Klostergasse Herrn g asse 6 7 8 10 i DINING Burgerkeller 5 Gasthof Marktplatz 6 Ratsstube 8 ATTRACTIONS Castle Gardens 11 Klingenbastei 1 Marktplatz 9 Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum 12 Plönlein 13 Rathaus und er Ratstrinkstube 7 R iv r e Reichsstadtmuseum 2 a Spitalbastei 14 St. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. Don’t let that deter you from visiting this remarkable reminder of Germany’s medieval past. but you need to transfer at Würzburg or Ansbach and again at Steinach. . www.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. For train information. or Stuttgart.

de).m. and on Sunday from noon to 6 p.–1 p. serves hearty. Klostergasse 1–3. a pork schnitzel with cream sauce.m. Standard dishes include Maultaschensuppe (stuffed pasta in broth) and Nuremberg sausages on sauerkraut.m. (Nov–Apr Mon–Fri until 5 p.292 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Finding information Tourist Information.m. and Sat 10 to 2 p. Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Burgerkeller.m. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information about the city. basic.m. American Express. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. and 6 to 9 p. www. American-style breakfasts also are available. The restaurant is open daily except Wednesday from 11:30 a. some with a nice view of busy. on the square to the right of the Rathaus. breakfast included).de).m. has a tavernlike interior and is a favorite of those who prefer hearty cooking (including sauerbraten and venison) without a lot of fuss and bother. parking costs 7. to 6 p.50–$13) for a main course. and 6 to 9 p. and Jägerschnitzel.burghotel. to 3 p.m. No credit cards are accepted. Staying in Rothenburg See Chapter 22 for a description of Hotel Eisenhut ($$–$$$$). rothenburg. Gasthof Marktplatz. old-fashioned Swabian dishes. is open May through October Monday through Friday from 9 a. The Ratsstube. (closed Jan–Mar). and the entire hotel is nonsmoking. MasterCard.gasthofmarktplatz. Grüner Markt 10 (% 09861/6722. prettily decorated rooms with views out across the Tauber Valley.m. . Marktplatz (% 09861/40492. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. more like German comfort food. such as Käsespätzle (cheesecoated noodles) cooked with onions. Expect to pay 6€ to 10€ ($7. to 2 p.m. inexpensive rooms (38€–48€/$47–$60.rothenburg. Boutique hotel standards prevail. Marktplatz 6 (% 09861/92411). in the town hall. www. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). MasterCard and Visa are accepted. is picturesque.m. carless Marktplatz. The Gasthof also rents out simple. It isn’t gourmet by any stretch.m.).50). including breakfast. Herrngasse 24 (% 09861/2126). Main courses range from 8€ to 14€ ($10–$17). to 11 p. 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber (% 09861/94890. housed in a 16th-century cellar (with tables outside in nice weather). from its half-timbered facade at the end of a cobblestone cul-de-sac to its large.m.50€ ($9. Rothenburg’s premier hotel. Everything about the 15-room Burg Hotel. and Visa are accepted. is a pleasant spot to dine on good.m. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday 11 a. Double rooms go for 90€ to 170€ ($112–$212).. www.m. local cooking and sample local wines. Diners Club.

South of the Rathaus..m. as victor. a 31⁄2-liter (6-pint) tankard of wine.. and an iron maiden.) tower.30€ ($3) for students. and 10 p.m.m. 2. and 1. captured the Protestant city of Rothenburg and was given. As you’re walking.25).m. noon. Admission is 3.50) adults. round pastries covered with powdered sugar. a dunking basket. to 6 p. called Die Meistertrunk (The Master Draught).m. chief protagonists in the drinking bout that saved Rothenburg. Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber Medieval walls encircle almost half of Rothenburg. an old inn with three clocks on its gabled facade.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 293 The Master Draught: How Mayor Nusch saved Rothenburg In 1631. He said he would spare the town from destruction if one of the town burghers could down the huge tankard in one draught. For an excellent visual introduction. Here’s a rare chance to see chastity belts. The museum is open April through October daily from 9:30 a.m. admission 1€/$1. to reveal the figures of General Tilly and Herr Nusch. and now serving as the tourist information office. December and March daily from 10 a. to 4 p. From the top of its 50m (165-ft.m. This historical episode was performed as a festival play. look for a Rothenburg specialty called Schneeballen (snowballs) — crisp. part 13th-century Gothic.. The play forms the centerpiece of a weekend festival that takes place every September in Rothenburg. Adjacent to the Rathaus. Windows on either side of the lowest clock open at 11 a.m. shame masks. 9.m. 3. Then just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere in one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. a 14th-century hospital with Rothenburg’s only 18th-century baroque facade houses the macabre Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime Museum). Burggasse 3–5 (% 09861/ 5359). take a walk on a portion of the town ramparts from the massive 16thcentury Spitalbastei (a medieval tower-gate at the end of the Spitalgasse) to the Klingenbastei (another tower-gate). when hundreds of citizens dress up in period costumes and re-create the period of the Master Draught. General Tilly. You can buy them in bakeries all across town.m. Former mayor Nusch accepted the challenge and succeeded. At the center of Rothenburg is the bustling Marktplatz (Market Square) dominated by the Rathaus (% 09861/40492). the other half sits on a high ridge above the Tauber River. Medieval crime and punishment are the fascinatingly gruesome subjects of the museum’s displays. during the Thirty Years’ War.. commander of the armies of the Catholic League.50€ ($4. November and January through February daily from 2 to 4 p. and 1–5 p.–12:30 p. 2. thus saving Rothenburg and giving himself a three-day hangover. is the Ratstrinkstube (Councilors’ Tavern). . you get a great view of the town (open Apr–Oct 9:30 a. in 1881. part 16th-century Renaissance. a shame flute for bad musicians.

m.m.50€ ($2) adults. Grüner Markt (% 09861/7166). Just northwest of the Jakobskirche is the Reichsstadtmuseum (City Museum). converge. you also pass neatly tended farms and fields. drinking vessels.m. No must-see sights are in either town. to 5 p. and houses.m. to 4:45 p. an upper and a lower. a masterpiece created by the Würzburg sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider. Shopping in Rothenburg Kunstwerke Friese. Driving along B25.m. Open hours are April through October daily from 10 a. Herrngasse 1 (% 09861/4090).50€ ($1. Klosterhof 5 (% 09861/93-9043). a collection of gold coins. described earlier in this chapter.. Klostergasse 15 (% 09861/700-620). the drive parallels the lovely. a park on the site of the imperial castle. pewter beer steins. With a population of about 260. just the picturesque streets. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. and dolls. Also look for the photogenic corner known as the Plönlein. Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance Augsburg is a city of pleasant surprises. music boxes. 2€ ($2. on the way to Augsburg.m.75) for adults. (Riemenschneider’s work also is on view in Würzburg and in the Herrgottskirche.m. is worth visiting to see the Heiliges-Blut-Altar (Altar of the Holy Blood). November and January through March daily 10 a. a Christmas-related emporium loaded with thousands upon thousands of Christmas ornaments. to 5:15 p. churches. December daily 10 a.m.. and kitchen.-Jakobskirche (Church of St. Rothenburg has plenty of picturesque nooks and crannies to explore. which is housed in a 700year-old Dominican nunnery with well-preserved cloisters.m. Two walled medieval towns worth a stop and stroll are Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen. It displays medieval panel paintings. where two streets. 1.. to noon and 2 to 4 p. 0. North and south of Rothenburg. The church is open daily April through October from 9 a.000. armaments. Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg The charm of driving along the Romantic Road is enhanced by the bucolic landscapes seen between the villages.294 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Gothic St. James).50 (65¢) children. leafy Tauber Valley. and objects of local interest. Every day is Christmas at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Weinachtsdoft (Christmas Village). squares.) The fine painted-glass windows in the church choir date from the late Gothic period. Admission is 1. November through March daily from 1 to 4 p.90) for children 6 to 18.50) for students and seniors. specializes in cuckoo clocks and carries Hummel figurines. convent hall. it’s the largest town along the Romantic Road and serves as a . One particularly pretty spot with lovely views over the Tauber Valley is Castle Gardens.

rad– ra Kon chiessg S sse kerga Bäc . Brech Romantikhotel t Brechthaus 4 OblatterwallAugsburger Hof rstr turm Dom St. and the lively ambience of a university town. r au lm allst e g Vo berw o Hamburg Jak Berlin Katharine ngasse 10 11 GERMANY Forster 12 H a l l s t r. Armen h ausg.G Ob Fugg r. Am S all ch w am Main Frankfurt Kapuzine r g Augsburg Munich r. . Anna 9 a Un f. The city was founded some 2. J ako ber uer ma Unt.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 295 Augsburg uz re Au f m de Je su i K St 1 2 hl e ass ng te rg Hofgarten Lu dw Obstmarkt Stadt. Afra Prinzstr. Ulrich und Kirchgasse St. Trains from Frankfurt (trip time about 3 hours) Le ch h 3 r. erst Be e str. Rathausplatz An 9 nas i Fuggerei Kap p ene ck Jakoberwallturm Vogeltor Z e ug g er . Ulrichs Weite G a s e platz s K itzenmarkt t Pro vinos Schwibbogen platz R boldstr. nto ue Fr a eg Ho he r W L au Mittl. 0 0 Church Information 1/8 mile Stettenstr. Graben i N us e rstr. ACCOMMODATIONS ATTRACTIONS Bert. under the patronage of the enormously wealthy Fugger family. (See the “Augsburg” map in this chapter. Spen e Mauer b P Ra u h ec w o ff st r rdsberg Leonha 4 5 6 P il g e r h a usstr. Jakoberst r.000 years ago by the Roman emperor Augustus and reached its cultural zenith during the Renaissance. G ra b en i ter n rabe .) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. 7 8 Jakobertor tr. ethov enstr str . charming corners. continue on B25 south from Rothenburg to Augsburg. A stroll through Augsburg reveals an attractive urban landscape loaded with historic buildings. Rotes Tor 125 meters gateway to the Bavarian Alps. Maria 3 e d e Rirestaurant) (hotel and 1 Fuggerei 8 Steigenberger Drei Fugger-Stadtpalais 11 FünfgratMohren 10 Mozarthaus 2 turm Perlachturm 5 ü DINING b s n Rathaus 6 Fuggerei Stube G 7ä a elsu Schaezlerpalais 12 c a r St. theater Karlstr. ass ilian erg Maxim int W llee er–A nau Ade benstr. tenau Grot glerg.igst r . em St.

and Saturday from 10 a. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. Rack rates for a double room range from 145€ to 165€ ($181–$206). Dining in Augsburg For fine food and impeccable service in lovely surroundings. 86152 Augsburg (% 0821/34-30-50. Rooms are nicely done with exposed beams in some and small but well-designed bathrooms with showers.m.296 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Munich (trip time about 30 minutes) arrive frequently throughout the day. Doubles go for 97€ to 130€ ($121–$162) and include a good breakfast buffet. and Visa are accepted. is a 36-room boutiquestyle hotel located just minutes from central Rathausplatz and all Augsburg attractions. Auf dem Kreuz 2 (% 0821/34-30-50). (9€/$11).m. Rathausplatz (% 0821/502-0724. The hotel’s restaurant is one of the best in town. Diners Club. serves generous portions of Swabian food with a few “inter- .m. Maximilianstrasse www. to 1 p. an unpretentious local eatery.m. to 6 p. augsburg-tourismus. American Express. the rest of the year (7€/$8. Jakoberstrasse 26 (% 0821/30870). and Visa are accepted.75). open Monday through Friday 9 a. dine at the restaurant in the Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. dispenses general The best are large and comfortable. MasterCard.steigenberger. Service is friendly and efficient.). Expect to pay 12€ to 25€ ($15–$31) for main courses. and can help you find a room. is the town’s full-service luxuryoriented hotel. www. Fuggerei Stube. American Express. MasterCard. www. though the rooms vary in size and level of finesse. The office also offers a two-hour bus tour May through October Thursday through Sunday at 10 a. The hotel’s new (2006) Meder’s Bar and Grill serves smaller-portion German and international dishes throughout the day. (Sun in summer 10 a. The best way to appreciate Augsburg’s architectural and cultural heritage is by taking the walking tour (in German and English) offered by the tourist office daily at 2 p.m. distributes city maps. on Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard.bahn.m. with marble-clad bathrooms with big bathtubs. For train information. Diners Club. The 102-room Steigenberger Drei Mohren. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. Staying in Augsburg Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. on Saturdays at 2 p. Auf dem Kreuz 2.–1 p. Larger (and quieter) rooms face an inner where the rear dining room is paneled in pale linden wood and the menu contains lots of Bavarian and Swabian specialties. 86150 Augsburg (% 0821/50360.augsburg. All tours begin at the Rathaus. from May through October.

The Rathaus. which contains paintings by Lucas Cranach and the chapel of the Fugger family. and vegetarian offerings. 10 a. East of Maximilianstrasse. MasterCard.m. you’ll find the Fuggerei.75). Martin Luther stayed in the adjoining monastery when he was called to Augsburg to recant his 95 Theses before a papal emissary. one of the most important building complexes in Augsburg. Exploring Augsburg Augsburg’s main square. and much more. and 3 p. Am Rathausplatz 2 (% 0821/324-9180). Hours are Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a. to 6 p. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). a former Carmelite monastery church dating from 1321. houses the Bavarian State Gallery.. is dominated by two imposing Renaissance-era buildings.m. and Cranach. and still in use today. you’ll be rewarded with a marvelous view of the old town center.m. next to the Rathaus. of what was once the Fugger-Stadtpalais (Fugger City Palace). on Annahof. The interior is famous for its sumptuous Goldener Saal (Golden Hall). The church. chicken breast with curry and rice.m. you find the city market with stalls selling flowers. fixed-price menu 19€ ($24). is open May through October from 10 a. Right next to the church. onions. 7€/$8.m. which can be visited only as part of a Rathaus tour (daily May–Oct.m.m. If you climb to the top of the soaring spire of the Perlachturm (Perlach Tower). capped by a distinctive dome called an “Augsburg onion” (you’ll see these onion domes on churches all across Augsburg and as you head south into Bavaria). is one of the most significant secular buildings of the German Renaissance. stands St. calves’ liver with apples. American Express. to 3 p. demarcate the southern end of Maximilianstrasse.m. Anna. noted for its old masters painting collection with works by Dürer.m. ornamented by three large Renaissance-era fountains and lined with shops and fine patrician houses. and roast potatoes. Holbein.600th birthday in 1594. Ulrich and St. both dating from 1500. St.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 297 national” dishes. produce.50). Maximilianstrasse. As you stroll along Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. Afra. to 6 p. Maximilianstrasse 46 (% 0821/324-4125). designed by Elias Holl and completed in 1620.m. Rathausplatz. Look for potato cream soup with mushrooms. the Schaezlerpalais. In 1518. The Augustus fountain in front of the Rathaus was dedicated on the occasion of the town’s 1. both considerably rebuilt after damage in WWII.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Sunday 11:30 a. and 5:30 to 11 p. is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p. pastries. stretches south from Rathausplatz. on the Annahof.m.. West of Rathausplatz. or Ladies’ Court.. and Visa are accepted. The tower. A pair of churches. . The first almshouses in the world. to 2 p. on Jakobsplatz in the old residential quarter of town. duck into the courtyard of Maximilianstrasse 36 to have a look at the Damenhof. A late-18th-century mansion. admission is 3. the Fuggerei was built in 1523 by Jacob Fugger the Rich.50€ ($4.

a remarkable pilgrimage church in a beautiful alpine meadow (the name means “church in the meadow”). a fountain. 6km (4 miles) southeast of the town of Steingaden off B17. to 5 p.25). but then the verdant (or snow-covered) pastures of the Bavarian Alps appear. On this segment of the drive.). Ludwig II’s famous castle in the Bavarian Alps. Tiny but fascinating.–5 a. The church is open daily from 8 a. If you’re a fan of Mozart.m. Residents pay an annual rent of 1€ (equivalent to one old Rhenish guilder) and are expected to pray three times a day for the soul of their benefactor. to 5 p. the Fuggerei Museum. and a 14th-century bronze door. Maria.m.m. Wolfie’s great-grandfather Franz Mozart. Frauentorstrasse 30 (% 0821/324-3984). a master mason reduced to penury. the Romantic Road passes through some industrialized areas that aren’t particularly appealing. Mittlere Gasse 13 (% 0821/3198810).m. columns.m.m. this rococo masterpiece was created by Dominikus Zimmermann (1685–1766). The Mozarthaus and the Brechthaus are open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. Altered during the centuries. I strongly recommend that you make a short detour to Wies. . to 6 p.m. a church. are found in the south transept of Augsburg’s cathedral. The Brechthaus. was born.298 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Wieskirche: Masterpiece in a meadow On the stretch of B17 from Augsburg to Füssen. Leopold. Auf dem Rain 7 (% 0821/324-2779) was the birthplace of playwright Bertolt Brecht (1898–1956) and today serves as a Brecht memorial. the compound looks like a miniature town with 67 identical cottages containing 147 small apartments. you may want to take a look at the humble Mozarthaus. Hoher Weg (% 0821/316-6353). Surrounded by walls and gates (locked 10 p.m. Some of the oldest stained-glass windows in Germany. gilded stucco. It’s open March through December daily from 10 a. Admission is free. Behind a rather sober facade. dating from the 12th century. admission is 1€ ($1. To return to the Romantic Road. backtrack to B17 and follow it south to Neuschwanstein..). and bright frescoes. who worked on the church with his brother from 1746 to 1754. lived in the Fuggerei almshouse at Mittlere Gasse 14. Dom St. the lightflooded interior with its enormous cupola shimmers with a superabundance of woodcarvings.. (Apr–Sept until 7 p. One of the world’s most exuberantly decorated buildings. and a park. statues.m. where Wolfgang’s father.50€ ($2). admission to each is 1. the cathedral features Gothic frescoes. where you find the Wieskirche (% 08862/501). paintings by Hans Holbein the Elder. lets you glimpse the interior of one of the cottages as it looked in centuries past.

is the less remarkable and more intimate of the two.. Finding information and buying tickets Information about both castles and the region in general is available in Schwangau at the Kurverwaltung (tourist office) in the Rathaus. Maximilian II. Saturday from 9 a.000 people visit. When the time comes. was the fairy-tale concoction of Maximilian’s son. built by Maximilian II in 1836. 9713) arrive from Füssen. Be prepared for long lines (sometimes up to 3 hours) in the summer. One parking lot serves both castles. open Monday through Friday from 8 a. feed your ticket into the turnstile in front of the respective castle. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. Hohenschwangau. Queen Maria of Prussia. A tour number and entry time are printed on your ticket. Ludwig II spent much of his joyless childhood at Hohenschwangau with his strait-laced father and his mother. A digital sign informs you when your tour is ready. bought it in 1832. On some days.m. head south along B17 to Schwangau. . to noon. the most photographed building in Germany. then Bavaria’s crown prince. which last about 35 minutes each. he built the Neo-Gothic castle you see today and used it as a summer holiday residence.m. the two Bavarian royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein (and the nearby town of Füssen) mark the end of the Romantic Road. The tour guide will meet you inside. King Ludwig II.m. the nearest large town (described later in this chapter). try to arrive as soon as the castles open in the morning. On the ruins. You can see the castles only on guided tours. Tours in English are available throughout the day. Exploring Hohenschwangau The castle was a 600-year-old ruin when Ludwig’s father. it’s a 7km (4-mile) drive along a signposted road. to 5 p. A ticket office near the parking lot of the castles sells tickets for both Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. From there. receiving nearly a million visitors a year. To save yourself time. Münchenerstrasse 2 (% 08362/81980).) The royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein are the most popular tourist attractions in Germany. especially in August. Neuschwanstein. The rooms of Hohenschwangau were designed and furnished in a ponderous “Gothic Castle” style that was fashionable in the 1830s and 1840s. Ten buses a day (no.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 299 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air Located 116km (72 miles) southwest of Munich. parking costs 4€ ($5). 25. Getting there If you’re driving from Augsburg along the Romantic Road.

he is “the dream king. he was declared insane. he often had Wagner’s operas performed for his own solitary pleasure. The music room on the second floor contains copies of letters between Ludwig II and his musical idol. Ludwig II was only 18 years old when he was crowned king of Bavaria. you can take a bus to Marienbrücke. Biographies. which begins at the ticket office.. the extravagant dream king financed Wagner. he was found drowned in Lake Starnberg on the outskirts of Munich. the walk to the castle entrance includes a steep. Ludwig’s excesses eventually threatened to bankrupt the kingdom. is one of the castle’s most attractive chambers.25). A more picturesque way to reach Neuschwanstein is by horse-drawn carriage. A patron of the composer Richard Wagner. along with the physician who had declared him insane.m.” For others. Born in Munich in 1845.m. costs 3. Alpseestrasse (% 08362/81127). a bridge that crosses over the Pöllat Gorge and offers a panoramic view of the castle dramatically perched on its crag above. to 6 p. which starts in front of the Schlosshotel Lisl near the parking lot. at age 41.m. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults and 8€ ($10) for students and children 6 to 15.50€ ($4. and blue-eyed. costs 1. If you don’t want to walk. March 15 to October 15 hours are 8:30 a. The Hall of the Swan Knight.300 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Ludwig II: Madman or dreamer? For some. handsome. Tall. Ludwig II is “the mad king. The most famous of his design efforts is the turreted castle of Neuschwanstein. plays.40) for the trip up to the castle . and the grand piano on which the two played duets. to 4 p. films. named for the wall paintings depicting the saga of Lohengrin (a Germanic hero associated with the swan). For many years. At Linderhof.” later in this chapter). and in 1886. Exploring Neuschwanstein Reaching the castle entrance involves a steep 800m (1⁄2-mile). and even a musical have been written about him.m. The crypt of the Michaelskirche (St.80€ ($2. perched on a crag high above the town of Schwangau. October 16 to March 14 hours are 9:30 a. who was first invited to Hohenschwangau by a teenaged Ludwig.” This strange. self-obsessed monarch has become one of the legendary figures in Bavarian history. 30-minute climb from the parking lot at Hohenschwangau Castle. Three days later. From Marienbrücke. Ludwig went so far as to reconstruct the Venus grotto from Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. the first palace that he built (see “A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles. The carriage ride. Ludwig grew bored with the affairs of state and eventually became more and more obsessed with acting out his extravagant fantasies. is open daily. The bus ride. 170-step stairway and takes about ten minutes. Was he murdered or did he commit suicide? No one knows. Michael’s Church) in Munich contains Ludwig’s grave and those of other Wittelsbach royals. Richard Wagner. Hohenschwangau.

stopping only when Ludwig died in 1886. In September. 8€ ($10) for children and students. the castle can be visited year-round by guided tour only. you can make your way down to see the enormous kitchens of the castle. from 10 a. Building began in 1869 and continued for some 17 years.90) for the descent. a mythical medieval knight. Through the balcony window you can see the 46m-high (150-ft. A 20-minute film about the life of Ludwig II is shown in an auditorium. Tickets go on sale in early June and always sell out quickly. Be aware that the carriages are sometimes crowded. . The throne room. he received news of his dethronement. At Neuschwanstein. with the mountains in the distance. to 4 p.50€ ($1. was never completed.m. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults. Paintings of Christ looking down on the 12 Apostles and 6 canonized kings of Europe decorate the walls and ceiling. Ludwig watched the construction of his dream palace through a telescope from neighboring Hohenschwangau. the Sängerhalle (Singer’s Hall) takes up almost the entire fourth floor of the castle. For information and reservations. October through March. Located at Neuschwansteinstrasse 20 (% 08362/81035). The ornate bed rests on a raised platform with an elaborately carved canopy. Buy tickets from the bus driver or at the carriage.m. Artisans carved wall panels to look like Gothic windows. free for children ages 6 to 14. A stairway of white Carrara marble leads up to the golden apse where the king’s throne was to stand. the German form of Art Nouveau. contact the Verkehrsamt (tourist office) in Schwangau (% 08362/81980). The king’s study is decorated with painted scenes from the medieval legend of Tannhäuser.) waterfall in the Pöllat Gorge. tours depart every half-hour from 9 a.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 301 entrance and 1. Decorated with marble columns and frescoes depicting the life of Parsifal. After you leave the guided tour. Three days later he was dead. the site of song contests in the Middle Ages.m. after Wartburg castle in Eisenach.. Everything from curtains to chair coverings is made of silk embroidered with the gold-and-silver Bavarian coat of arms. another architectural fantasy.m. designed to look like a Romanesque basilica with columns of red porphyry and a mosaic floor. Between 1884 and 1886. to 6 p. Wagnerian and other classical music concerts take place in the Singer’s Hall. From April through September. The sumptuous ornamentation seen throughout the castle influenced Jugendstil. a mural depicts the legend of the doomed lovers Tristan and Isolde. the king lived in Neuschwanstein on and off for 170 days. The intricate woodcarving in the king’s bedroom took 41⁄2 years to complete. Architects modeled the room.

or larger meals.m. www. This spotless guesthouse with blooming flower boxes exudes an air of old-fashioned Bavarian hospitality. 87629 Füssen (% 08362/ 91600. Main courses go for 8€ to 16€ ($10–$20). From Munich. bahn. 25.302 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Neuschwanstein is closed November 1.m. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. Dining near the castles Neuschwanstein has a pleasant cafe where you can get sandwiches. Füssen is an atmospheric place to headquarter while exploring the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau or other places in the Bavarian Alps.m. Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road Situated in foothills of the Bavarian Alps. www. and Saturday from 10 a. If the weather is fine. desserts. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/ 93850 for both. January 1. Ritterstrasse the medieval town of Füssen marks the official end (or beginning) of the Romantic Road. and Shrove Tuesday (the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday on the Christian calendar). winter hours are Monday to Friday from 9 a. Summer hours are Monday to Friday 8:30 a. and 31. has been owned and operated by the same family for generations.) Getting there If you’re driving along the Romantic Road from Augsburg. to noon. where the restaurant serves sandwiches.fuessen. December 24. Its history dates back to Roman times. you can eat outdoors on the terrace of Hotel Müller. Trains from Munich (trip time 21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (trip time 5–51⁄2 hours) arrive frequently throughout the day. take the A8 Autobahn west to Landsberg and then head south on B17.m. (See the “Füssen” map in this chapter. to noon. The 35 comfortable rooms are small to medium in size. Otherwise. to 5 Divided by the Lech River. soup.000 inhabitants has lovely squares and narrow cobblestone streets flanked by medieval stone houses. and Saturday from 10 a. herring. 119km (74 miles) southwest of Munich and just 3km (2 miles) from Neuschwanstein. Staying in Füssen Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten.hotel-hechten. Finding information Füssen Tourismus operates two tourist offices. one at Kaiser-MaximilianPlatz 1. you encounter no lack of restaurants (or hotels) right around the parking lot near Hohenschwangau. continue south on B17. when Füssen was a trading station. most have small .m. to 6:30 p. For train information. this town of and beverages. another in the Rathaus (town hall).

n Vo ZIEGELBERG 0 0. be Glü c Hin te re k A LT S TA D T hen Reic St. Schwangau rsse Flo asse g . Feriengasthof Helmer.Sc hulhausstr. be rg Tegel- Dr. Ritterstr. rstr.-Wa 1 der An dsaul Bil hhalde 8 To Schloss Neuschwanstein.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 303 Füssen Information Post Office Railway inkel genstr. Mitteldorf 10.-SebastianKirche ALTER FRIEDHOF Fra nzi nerpla tz ska B ru nn e Kemptener Str.hotel-helmer. www. The rooms all are furnished differently. Rupprechtstrasse Ziegelangerweg Schmid Sch lesie str.25 mi N Zi e l ge Bgm . Located in Schwangau. and Visa are accepted. MasterCard.25 km some have balconies.-Samer-Str . most have showers in r gs tras se i llner- Wachsb leiche Church I 0 0. Augustenstra sse Schiess haus gas se sse trass e Mar nh of strass Sud e ete nst nstrass e Rudolf strasse -F Sonne a ass e e ss stra sse uiterJesa g s se Ga sse ngasse s tr ost Ott asse ras s Lu itp old s tr e Hoc re y be rg -St r KaiserMaximilian. Platz Se ba s ti a Schran n st nr ass gassne e e g asse i r. Kemptener Str. Schloss Hohenschwangau. American Express. Huterg. is a traditional Bavarian guesthouse with views of the mountains and nearby castles. 2 3 e kt) riss Mo nmar e och W Mag nu sp l. The hotel is located directly below the castle in Füssen’s Altstadt (Old Town).-MaximilianKapelle ellenberg Kap Am F gässchen nbach aule Flos serg asse S t a dtbl iche e Hamburg Berlin uer Strasse wanga S ch e lbachgasse trass Müh S r e l ro Ti 4 Mü hle nw eg Lec h GE R M A NY Frankfurt Munich Füssen ACCOMMODATIONS Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten 2 Feriengasthof Helmer 8 DINING Fischerhütte 1 Zum Schwanen 7 ATTRACTIONS Hohes Schloss 3 Kloster St. Theresienstras se Bahnhof Bah Aug s iens Kar l- Ege rlan str. a small village about 4km (21⁄2 miles) east of Füssen. m er au er Rathaus 5 6 i Lec n t se d as 7 A Sta italg Sp d ( Dre he r Pfarrg.-Mang 5 Lechfall 4 Museum der Stadt Füssen 6 shower-only bathrooms. B m arotrkt F r a n zisk a n erg. BAD FAULENBACH e strass Alatsee St. 87645 Schwangau (% 08362/9800. d- König-Lu dwi g-P hstif rom tstr en asse ad e bur ger stra str. Rack rates for a double room with buffet breakfast range from 74€ to 84€ ($92–$105).

The Romanesque crypt in front of the high altar contains frescoes painted around A. 1000. % 08362/91970).m. The powerful prince-bishops of Augsburg used the Hohes Schloss. specializes in seafood from around the world.m. Small and old-fashioned.m. Service is helpful and attentive. Access to the secularized church complex is through the Museum der Stadt Füssen (City Museum). one of the finest late-Gothic castles in Bavaria. lamb.75) for adults.75–$22). and 6:30 to 10 p. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. A few meat dishes are also available. The restaurant is open daily from 10 a. Uferstrasse 16. Kids enjoy the nearby pool and find plenty of room to play outside. Exploring Füssen Füssen’s main attraction is the Hohes Schloss (High Castle). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 2 p. where you find a collection of Swabian artwork from the 1400s to the 1700s. North Atlantic lobster. to 4 p.m. Hopfen am See (5km/3 miles northwest of Füssen.304 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the bathrooms. a local architect. reached by a steep lane behind the parish church. roast pork. Johann-Jakob Herkomer. Magnusplatz (% 08362/903-146). Brotmarkt 4 (% 08362/6174). Admission is 3€ ($3.m. and Visa are accepted. and venison.) and charges 3€ ($3.m.m. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/903-145). Menu offerings may include Alaskan salmon. fresh local trout.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. turned the church and monastery into a baroque gem with a strong Venetian influence. or grilled halibut. French-style bouillabaisse. . In the early 18th century. Dining in Füssen Fischerhütte. Zum Schwanen. as a summer residence. Rack rates for a double room with breakfast are 78€ to 108€ ($97–$135). Stay here if you want old-fashioned atmosphere. Main courses go for 11€ to 25€ ($ 14–$ 31). and portions are generous. MasterCard. Immediately below the castle lies the Kloster St. Reservations are recommended. MasterCard is the only credit card accepted. serves a flavorful blend of Swabian and Bavarian cuisine. Zum Schwanen is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.-Mang (Monastery of St. which occupies the former state apartments of the abbey and displays artifacts relating to the history and culture of the region. Magnus died in 750. American Express. 1–4 p.D.). founded by Benedictine monks in the eighth century on the site where an Irish missionary monk named St. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($8. (Nov–Mar 2–4 p.m. at the edge of a small lake within sight of dramatic mountain scenery. children younger than 14 free.75) for admission. (Nov–Mar. to 9:30 p. Diners can enjoy Bavarian specialties during the summer in an outdoor beer garden.m. Magnus). to 5 p. including a collection of locally produced violins and lutes. Specialties include homemade sausage. Now the castle is the home of the Staatsgalerie.

The Bayerische Zugspitzbahn at Garmisch (% 08821/7970) provides rail service to the top of the Zugspitze and other local peaks. to 6 p. Despite the commercial. To reach GarmischPartenkirchen by car from Munich. take the A95 Autobahn and exit at Eschenlohe. Finding information The tourist information office at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2 (% 08821/180700.bahn. The trip time from Munich is about 11⁄2 hours. the twin villages of Garmisch and Partenkirchen comprise Germany’s top winter-sports resort. and Sundays and holidays from 10 a. Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoys a stunning location at the foot of the Wetterstein range. From Marienplatz.m. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 305 The Lechfall. village atmosphere. A pedestrian footbridge spans the falls. Two giant peaks. and streets and lanes (particularly in Partenkirchen) with a quiet. you still find charming details: the sound of cowbells in the meadows outside town. the towns played host to the World Alpine Ski is open Monday to Saturday from 8 a. the fourth Winter Olympics took place here. The . Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze Located about 97km (60 miles) southwest of Munich.) In 1936. to noon. Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen A free municipal bus runs every 15 minutes between the Bahnhof (train station) and Marienplatz. you can walk to all the centrally located hotels. a waterfall less than a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) south of For information and schedules.garmisch-partenkirchen.m.m. www. Getting there Trains run frequently from all directions to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. rear up to the south of town. The office supplies maps and details of area hikes and attractions. hiding Germany’s tallest mountain. is a popular walk from Füssen. (See the “Garmisch-Partenkirchen” map in this chapter. the Alpspitze and the Waxensteine. located where the Lech River squeezes through a rocky gorge and over a high ledge. Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren $ Partenkirchen Located in Partenkirchen. the famed Zugspitze. and in 1978. touristy air of the towns. this family-owned and -operated hotel offers cozy accommodations at moderate prices. Garmisch’s main square. the quieter side of town. the trip takes about one hour.

and ragout of venison. are small but very comfortable. and mountain climbing. V.m. Ludwigstrasse 24. a pretty garden. with wooden balconies. try a soufflé. See map p.–11:30 p. grilled salmon.vierjahreszeiten. some with a private balcony. . MC. The hotel is close to the Zugspitze Bahnhof and the Olympic Ice Stadium. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. www. Ludwigstrasse 65. Gasthof Fraundorfer $ –$$ Partenkirchen BAVARIAN Visitors to Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoy this large restaurant because every evening yodelers. and dancers provide Bavarian entertainment.306 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 25 rooms are comfortable without a lot of frills. % 08821/943040. Children younger than 6 stay free in their parents’ room. and 5–10 p. each has a small bathroom with tub or shower. Reservations recommended. Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a center for winter sports. 307.m. % 08821/59055. an outdoor terrace. 307. and a backdrop of forest-covered mountains. V. Traditional Bavarian and Mediterranean specialties are on the 307.–2:30 p. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). and 307. Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Alpenhof $ –$$ Garmisch BAVARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Locals regard the Alpenhof as one of the finest restaurants in Garmisch. is an excellent budget choice. The tiled bathrooms have either showers or tub-shower combinations. musicians. AE. See map p. Rates include buffet breakfast. pork cutlets. Closed 3 weeks in Nov. The best way to explore this international resort is simply to stroll around the town and its environs.m. MC. AE. DC. The food is hearty and uncomplicated: potato soup with wurst. Riffelstrasse 17. Rates: 70€–90€ ($87–$112) double. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen.hotel-hilleprandt. Fax: 08821/74548. www. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). MC.m. Open: Daily 11:30 a. See map p. The 13 rooms. % 08821/9130. Rates: 78€–112€ ($97–$140) double. and so are fresh trout. Open: Daily except Tuesday 11 a. Reservations recommended. % 08821/9270. V. enjoying the panoramic views of the Alps and the colorful buildings that line the side streets. summer hiking. See map p. Rates include buffet breakfast. V. Hotel Hilleprandt $ –$$ Garmisch This chalet. Am Kurpark 10. It’s a touristy scene but fun.m. Fax: 08821/18974. MC. ham hocks with sauerkraut. For dessert.

enjoy nature.m.m.S To Jagdschloss Schachen/ Eckbauer/ Partnachklamm Gorge tr. rst ad Lo Z ug r. this ski facility opened in 1936 and remains an integral part of winter life in Garmisch.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 307 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Herbst Alte Kirche Bu rgstr. ru g PARK ch Von-B h i c isa Richard.628 ft. Bahnhof Par tn ch tna Pa r ch a u a ss ra A lps p it z e - ü ll e z-M Frit r eito Dr Garmisch-Partenkirchen str. Riffe 2 3 Kla mm str. 2.000 spectators. 6 ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Hilleprandt 2 Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren 5 DINING Alpenhof 1 Gasthof Fraundorfer 4 ATTRACTIONS Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum 3 Olympia-Skistadion 6 Church Information i Post Office Railway 0 0 0. om rk Platz a p m Am K u r er s 1 Marien. is the Jagdschloss Schachen Kr a ig s dw Lu str. spitz r. Rathausplatz str. t s r platz z t spi et W rt Pa isa e s tr. r n st Höl r.75) for children 6 to 15.688m (5. alst lent r.2 km 0. on Sat and Sun). to noon (also 2–4 p. or “high ways”). . St .En Lo zianen Kurhaus Straussstr. str. and watch animals in the forest. Pr rs t ei n str. with two ski jumps and a slalom course. The World Cup Ski Jump takes place here every January 1. str 5 eld r. 1. On the slopes at the edge of town is the Olympia-Skistadion (Olympic Ski Stadium). tr. wig L ud 4 n So nb ne r. lst t st S t. the Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum (Olympic Ice Stadium. The ice rinks are open to the public daily (except from the middle of May through June) from 10 a.2 mi .M To Zugspitze Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt Munich Built for the 1936 Winter Olympics. fstr nho Bah Ol y m Ach tr. burgHinden s trasse s o p henw e nch g sse stra ne r. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. ar tin s str. gst er te chna ar tin -S Sc ho en str.Kongresshaus . M H au p t- P h il o Mü winkelst r. p ia Klam tr.20€ ($2.) above Garmisch-Partenkirchen and accessible only by foot (the climb is strenuous). Zugspitzbahn inlstr. r. - rt Ma Bayerische Str. One hiking destination. % 08821/753-294) in Garmisch contains three giant skating rinks with stands for 12. KUR. People come from around the world to roam the mountain paths (called Hohenwege.Chamonix. mst up str. s trasse fs ho hn Ba tr.St str. enf a int Re Ha .. Like the ice stadium. Alpine hiking is a major summertime attraction.

. (5:30 p. At the Zugspitzplatte. The entire trip takes about 40 minutes. where you find extraordinary panoramas. ߜ The second way to get to the summit of the Zugspitze is to take the Zugspitzbahn for a shorter trip. A round-trip ticket enables you to ascend one-way and descend the other for the widest range of spectacular views. Olympiastrasse 27.. disembarking 14km (9 miles) southwest of Garmisch at the lower station of the Eibsee Sielbahn (Eibsee Cable Car). 2 p. the Gletscherbahn. On Friday.m. a cafe and restaurant.308 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08821/2996). and many alpine trails. www. from early June to early October. these concerts move to the Partenkirchen bandstand.m. You can choose between two different ways to reach the Zugspitze from the center of Garmisch. to 4:30 p. but the king insisted on an elaborately fanciful Moorish-style interior. Brauhausstrasse 19. the cable car carries you to the Zugspitzgipfel. both involving a ride on a cog railway and a cable car: ߜ The first way begins with a trip on the Zugspitzbahn (cog railway).. a high plateau with sweeping views. Check with the local tourist . and 3 p. free for children younger than 14. 32€ ($39) for youths 16 and 17. The round-trip fare is 44€ ($55) for adults. the “dream The exterior of the lodge resembles a Swiss chalet. The Eibsee Sielbahn makes runs every half-hour from 8:30 a. You need about four hours to get there and back.960m/9. Total travel time to the top is about 55 minutes.720 ft. to the Zugspitzplatte. given at 11 a. The train travels uphill. a hunting lodge built by Ludwig II.zugspitze. for a four-minute ride uphill to the Zugspitzgipfel (summit). The tourist office in GarmischPartenkirchen (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) can supply further details.m. Discovering the local nightlife From mid-May through September.m. Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/797-900.m. in July and Aug).m. you transfer onto a cable car.). Bavarian folk music and dancing take place every Saturday night in the Bayernhalle.” in 1871. 1 p. to 2:35 p. A family ticket for two adults and one child costs 100€ ($125).m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. a gift shop. you can go all the way to the summit of the Zugspitze. The only way to see the lodge is by guided tour (in German only). which departs from the back of Garmisch’s main railway station daily every hour from 8:35 a. During the same season.m. and 27€ ($33) for children ages 6 to 15. past giant boulders and rushing streams. Ascending the Zugspitze For a spectacular view of the Bavarian and the Tyrolean (Austrian) Alps.m. the Garmisch park bandstand plays host to classical concerts Saturday through Thursday. For more information. contact the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn. Germany’s tallest mountain (2. The stop is next to an alpine lake and clearly marked. From here.

Know before you buy that even some of the most expensive “handmade” pieces may have been carved by machine prior to being finished off by hand. A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles A scenic drive through the Emmertal. take E533 north and turn west onto B23 at Oberau. but you also find drinking or hunting scenes. office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) for details about these programs. and folkloric figures. If you’re looking for authentic woodcarvings. Competition is fierce for sales of local woodcarvings made in hamlets and farmhouses throughout the region. the composer lived in Garmisch from 1908 until 1949. the next will be in 2010). and in reverse. Hinterglas (behind glass) painting. everything from small figures of saints for 54€ ($67) to jumping jacks with movable legs for 36€ ($45). has the most-sophisticated inventory of woodcarvings crafted from maple.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 309 Oberammergau: Woodcarvers and Passion plays An alpine village located 20km (12 miles) north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Locals have performed the 51⁄2-hour. pine. The twin towns also play host to a Folklore Week in early August and a five-day Richard Strauss Festival in June. and parts of Austria. a valley flanked by 1. Passionswiese 1 (% 08822/92310).388). sells a wide range of carvings. Prices start around 11€ ($14) and go up to 5. takes you to Schloss Linderhof . Every ten years. and linden.000. Actors must be natives of or have lived in the town for at least 20 years. the following stores are reliable: ߜ Holzschnitzerei Franz Barthels. Croatia. A shuttle bus runs back and forth between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau daily.) peaks. Most of the carvings are of religious scenes.000-ft.800m (5. Oberammergau has been famous for its woodcarvers and Hinterglas artists since the 15th century. animals. an art form unique to Bavaria. is painting done directly on glass. 16-act drama depicting Christ’s journey to the Cross every decade since 1680 (the last was in 2000. If you’re coming by car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Schnitzlergasse 4 (% 08822/4271). Actors first performed the famous Passion play in Oberammergau in 1634 when the town’s citizens took a vow to give thanks for being spared from the 6. ߜ Tony Baur.500m to 1. The cast for this religious epic numbers in the hundreds. the next one will be held in 2010.110€ ($6. a crowd from around the world converges on Oberammergau to see the Passionspiele (Passion Play). Performances take place in the Passionspiel Theater. Dorfstrasse 27 (% 08822/821).

turning west on B23 about 5km (3 miles) toward Ettal. Admission in the summer is 7€ ($8.25) for students and seniors. so arrive early or you may have a long wait.m.310 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08822/92030. Exploring Schloss Linderhof In 1869. October through March. thanks in large part to the beauty of its natural setting in the Ammerberge range and its formal French gardens. You can see the palace only by guided tour. passing the hamlet of Graswang on the way.m. in which he was rowed about the lake. The rustic lodge was transformed into a small. the Grotto and other park buildings A sign at the front of the palace tells you what group is currently being admitted.. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. . and then drive for 13km (8 miles) on the signposted road. www. Linderhof is not without charm. When your time arrives. the most elaborate of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale palaces. The parking fee is 2€ ($2. Winter admission is 6€ ($7. King Ludwig II decided to redesign this former royal hunting lodge to resemble the Petit Trianon at Versailles.linderhof. 5€ ($6.75) for adults.m. For all its ostentation. and crystal chandeliers. Linderhof is an extremely popular tourist attraction. feed your ticket through the electronic turnstile to gain entrance. fanciful buildings. swan-shaped boat.50) for adults. with stalagmites and stalactites dividing the cavelike room into three chambers. 6€ ($7.) Getting there If you’re driving from Munich. Your ticket has a specific entry time.50) for seniors 65 and older and for students. The park contains several small. take the Munich–Garmisch Autobahn (A95) south. Linderhof is open year-round and makes a wonderful daytrip from Munich or Garmisch-Partenkirchen. but the castle is open daily from 10 a. tours in English are available throughout the day. The original colored-light effects still illuminate the room. Ludwig kept two swans and a gilded. to 6 p. the Grotto contains an artificial lake fed by an artificial waterfall and a stage hung with a backdrop scene of the first act of Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. The palace and grounds are open April through September daily from 9 a. The ornate exterior is actually restrained when compared with the interior. glittering with gold leaf. including the Grotte (Grotto).m. mirrors. inspired by the famous Blue Grotto at Capri. Built of artificial rock. which had artificial waves.50). A guide will meet your group outside the castle. to 4 p. dazzling-white château overloaded with statues and decorations derived from many different periods and countries. On the lake. which is a riot of neo-rococo flashiness.

(See “The Bodensee [Lake Constance]” map in this chapter. you .) is called the Bodensee. you ask: the Bodensee or Lake Constance? Both names are correct. one of the great lakes of Europe. The widest point is almost 14km (9 miles) across. it’s called Lake Constance. In Switzerland and Austria. The Bodensee is Germany’s largest and Central Europe’s third-largest lake. In this corner of the country. Germany’s largest lake ᮣ Discovering the island city of Lindau ᮣ Exploring the Black Forest ᮣ Bathing in Baden-Baden ᮣ Wandering through the medieval town of Freiburg S outhwestern Germany is an area rich in scenic splendor. On the north (German) shore. vineyards slope down to crowded marinas. and the legendary Black Forest. this 74km-long (46-mile) lake in the foothills of the Alps (elevation 395m/1. while towns on the lake bask in an almost Mediterranean balminess. the countries that share its 258km (160 miles) of shoreline. Vineyards and fruit orchards thrive in the region’s mild. sunny climate. and charming old towns bask in the golden sun.300 ft. you find the Bodensee.) Atmospheric old towns such as Freiburg share the forest setting with glamorous resorts like BadenBaden. Looking south across the lake. In Germany.Chapter 17 The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights In This Chapter ᮣ Enjoying the Bodensee. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) What is the proper name. Visitors to the Bodensee enjoy the warm climate and stunning scenery.

312 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany see the towering. and for hundreds of years the town was a center of trade between but for the most part the lake is placid. Check with the tourist office in Lindau or contact Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. Lindau: Sunny island charmer The historic island-town of Lindau. is open April through October. take the A96 Autobahn and then B31 into Lindau. located 179km (111 miles) southwest of Munich at the northeastern corner of the Bodensee. Several ferries per day link Konstanz with Lindau. you can get direct connections to Lindau from Munich. Prague.bahn. The Altstadt. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. After you cross the causeway.. www. because you won’t be able to drive into the historic center. Lindau. Getting to Lindau Lindau is one of the Bodensee’s major transportation hubs. flower-bedecked squares and a harborside promenade. the entire trip takes three hours. Lindau is a popular tourist destination that feels a bit like an Italian resort. and Zurich. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. was founded in the ninth century. and Switzerland. and Hafenstrasse 6.) A profusion of gardens gives the town a quasi-Mediterranean air. park in one of the large car parks outside the Altstadt. Basel. Monday through Friday 9 a. Konstanz (% 07531/ 3640-398). If you’re driving from Füssen. occupies a small island in the lake (accessible by a causeway). By car from Munich. and the train station is right in the Altstadt across from the harbor. across from the train station.bsb-online. you can travel by boat to towns in Austria and Switzerland and to Konstanz on the western side of the lake. Schützingerweg 2. makes a good place to stay. stopping at Meersburg and Mainau. Fierce winds from the mountains occasionally whip up the waters of the Bodensee. the newer part of Lindau spreads out to the mainland. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. A town of By train. Ludwigstrasse 68 (% 08382/260030. Lindau is on a major rail line. to 6 p. or Old Town. A road bridge and a causeway for walkers and trains connect the town to the mainland. Finding information and taking a tour The Lindau tourist information office.m. turning south on B12 (Kemptenstrasse). From Lindau. Saturday . You even find subtropical vegetation growing in sheltered gardens. So many historic buildings line its narrow streets that the entire town is a protected Italy.lindau-tourismus. snow-capped Alps. a lovely island city on the northeastern shore. www.m. Day and overnight tickets for car parks can be purchased from ticket machines. For information and train schedules. follow B310 and B308 west.

REP. LU X. BEL . NET H.0 5 mi 5 km B34 0 Weingarten Ravensburg Ferry Üb erl ing er Se Überlingen Markdorf B32 B33 e B31 Radolfzell G E R M A N Y To Munich Airport E43 E54 Zelle rsee Mainau Immenstaad B30 B31 Reichenau Untersee Tettnang Eriskirch B467 Gn B33 ade nse e Meersburg Wangen B12 Konstanz Friedrichshafen B32 D EN M AR K MA RK B o Kressbronn B12 Hamburg d Langenargen Deutsche Alpenstrasse Berlin Romanshorn e n Wasserburg Lindau B308 B308 POLAND N E TH . GERMANY s e e BE L. . S W I T Z E R L A N D Rorschach Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest R ANCE F RANC E Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Staad Bregenz A U S T R I A The Bodensee (Lake Constance) 313 S WI SW ITZ TZ. L UX. A US TRIA AU S TRI A . am Main Frankfurt Arbon CZECH C ZECH RE P.

tiled bathrooms have showers (two rooms have tubs and showers). Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten $$ –$$$$ Altstadt One of the nicest places to stay on the Bodensee is the upscale lakeside Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten. to noon and 2 to 5 p. Monday through Friday 9 a. The décor is modern in both.m. some with lake views. AE. DC. two connected buildings with 64 rooms between them. The Lindau Stadtbus (city bus. The Reutemann has large rooms and bathrooms with showers and big tubs. from April through October. Fax: 08382/ 4133. www. Getting around Lindau The charming Altstadt. Rates include continental breakfast. 315. to 4 p.m. If you want a taxi. % 08382/93410.314 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Sunday 9:30 a.m. modern style with lots of light. contact BodenseeSchiffsbetriebe (% 08382/2754810). located at the end of the causeway. The group meets in front of the tourist office.m. located right on the harbor promenade. The Seegarten has flower-filled balconies and spacious rooms. is flat and easily walkable. Larger rooms with small sitting areas are in an older building (a glass-roofed conservatory connects the two). You can join a guided walking tour on Monday (in English) or Tuesday and Friday mornings (in German) at 10 a. Bei der Heidenmauer 11. % 08382/704-242) provides halfhourly service to all parts of Lindau daily from early morning until 10:40 p. the island part of Lindau. and sauna. Its harborside kiosk has excursion information and timetables. Some open onto a rear balcony.hotel-garni-brugger. See map p. part of the same management. MC.m. For information on boat trips around the Bodensee. More luxurious is the adjacent Hotel Bayerischer Hof. is the best affordable choice in Lindau..m. The small. outdoor so hotels in all price categories are available. the cost is 4€ ($5). Hotel-Garni Brugger $ Altstadt This welcoming 23-room hotel. November through March. V. Rates: 86€–92€ ($107–$115) double. . All three buildings share a lakefront garden with sunbathing areas. fitness center. 88131 Lindau. Staying in Lindau Lindau is a tourist-oriented resort town. The location is an easy walk from the lake and casino. call Taxi-Ring-Zentrale (% 0800-60066666) or Lindauer Funk-Taxi (% 08382/4455). The rooms are up-to-date and furnished in a functional. comfortable.

erg rb Fä Sch ütz Lu Hauptbahnhof z S ro eep n ho eg i 15 me dw ig ing erw s tr se as Brettermark Rüberplatz t 16 na de 17 18 Bu rgga sse Dreierstrasse ertu en Hintere Insel Ludwigstra sse rmw Ba h eg Reichsplatz Ling teg msse Dam gas Pulverturm - Uferweg nilia 9 xim Ma 10 Fi s c her- Barfüsserplatz ga s s e 7 Schrannenplatz . iespl P arad Z e pp e l in fpl at Hamburg Berlin 19 Se e ha f e n Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest ATTRACTIONS Altes Rathaus 10 Diebsturm 7 Löwenmole 19 Mangturm 17 Maria Himmelfahrt 14 Neuer Leuchtturm 20 Peterskirche 8 Römerschanze 18 Spielbank 6 Stadtmuseum 12 Stadtpark 4 St. mm Kru elg Ins Pulv rab Da mm g. Stephan 13 Strandbad Eichwald 3 Strandbad Lindenhofbad 1 20 Information i G ER M ANY Frankfurt B o d e n s e e Lighthouse Post office Railway Munich Lindau Lindau 315 . Kron ngasse e .0 0.1 mi 1 mm K l e i n e r S e eb rü ck e 2 Se e 0 0.1 km Eisen ba ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Bayerischer Hof 15 Hotel-Garni Brugger 5 Hotel Reutemann/ Hotel Seegarten 16 hnda 3 Ch e Rollschuhplatz Heidenm lle s-A lle e Rotkreuz Platz 4 DINING Hoyerberg Schlössle 2 RestaurantWeinstube Frey 9 Zum Sünfzen 11 8 rgeebe e Schn gass Au GROLL f W de ANLAGEN all m OSCAR- 6 Thiersch strasse gstr asse au asse er 5 zigerstr Zwan Auf der Mauer Alter Schulsse Schmiedga platz 13 r Grub e d n I er Kirchplatz msse MarktCra ga 12 platz 14 A L T S T A D T Stiftsplatz Strasse 11 Bindergasse sse stra g.

m. V.m. DC. and saddle of venison with flour dumplings and French beans. Maximilianstrasse 1. beef stroganoff. See map p. You can drive to these hotels and park in the underground garage. DC. Menu offerings vary seasonally but may typically include cream of scampi soup. cafe Tues–Sat 2–4:30 p. Fax: 08382/915591. Reservations recommended.) % 08382/25295.m. 315. Dining in Lindau Hoyerberg Schlössle $$$$ Mainland CONTINENTAL The Hoyerberg Schlössle. See map p. Zum Sünfzen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/BAVARIAN This old restaurant at the east end of Maximilianstrasse serves good. take Langenweg and Friedrichshafener Strasse northwest to Hoyerbergstrasse. AE. 315. V. local perch stuffed with herbs. located on the mainland about a 15-minute drive from the Altstadt. No credit cards. % 08382/5865. DC. Dishes range from schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). and 5–11:30 p. The first-floor cafe is more informal. See map p. (From the causeway.bayerischerhof-lindau. Open: Daily 11 a. Fresh fish from the Bodensee is a specialty. Rates: Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten 116€–210€ ($145–$262) double. and roast pork with homemade Spätzle to filet of venison. trout baked in a potato crust. Hotel Bayerischer Hof 152€–291€ ($190–$364).m. You can dine inside or out. MC. Seepromenade. at Lindau-Aeschach. and 6–10 p. Open: Daily 10:30 a. The breakfast buffet is an additional 16€ ($20). % 08382/9150.m. Open: Restaurant Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. has few rivals on the Bodensee. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). Meals here are a memorable experience. www. dependable food at reasonable prices. You may want to sample the local Meersburger wines as you dine on chicken breast with raspberry sauce.m. 315. Reservations required in the restaurant. Frey’s has outdoor tables on the pedestrian street and a small second-floor restaurant with a beamed ceiling and pleasantly old-fashioned–11 p.m. Restaurant-Weinstube Frey $ Altstadt GERMAN The oldest Stubl (drinking and dining room) on Maximilianstrasse. 88131 Lindau. with a view of the mountains and lake. V. AE. and baby-sitting can be arranged.–2:30 p. Hoyerbergstrasse 64. to pepper steaks. Main courses: 22€–35€ ($27–$44). % 08382/5278. 315. MC.m. See map p. or spinach Spätzle (a potato-based pasta) baked with cheese and ham. AE. Closed Jan 15–Feb 28. Main dishes: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Maximilianstrasse 15. MC. not required in the cafe.. Fixed-price menus: 62€–79€ ($77–$98). .316 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Children younger than 10 stay free.

but in the 16th century the building received a Renaissance face-lift. The museum is open April through September Tuesday to Friday from 11 a. silverware.m. the church became a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of World War I.– 5 p. Lindau’s main pedestrian-only thoroughfare. Flanking the harbor entrance is the 19th-century Neuer Leuchtturm (lighthouse) and the Löwenmole.m.–5 p. At night. Built around 1370 at the most westerly point of the old town wall.25) for a panoramic vista of the Swiss and Austrian Alps across the water..m.” that once stood beside the tower. You can climb up the narrow spiral staircase of the lighthouse (open daily 9:30 a. and historical toys.m. or “mangle house. has . to 5 p. The museum contains a large collection of furniture (ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau). In a stately. flower-bedecked fountain in the center. a pillar with a sculpted lion (the symbol of Bavaria) looking out over the lake. St. Located just north of Maximilianstrasse. paintings. 1000. admission 1. Rising from the promenade at the edge of the harbor is the 13th-century tower called the Mangturm..Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 317 Exploring Lindau Lindau is best enjoyed by simply taking a couple of hours to stroll around the Altstadt.) Located almost directly across from the main train station.m. glassware. Return to Maximilianstrasse and follow the street eastward to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). The interior walls have late-15th-century frescoes by Hans Holbein the Elder. On the east side of Marktplatz stand side-by-side Lutheran and Catholic churches. erected in 1422 and notable for its grandly painted facade of a princely procession.50). The tower is not open to the public. the church was built around A.. the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower).75€/$2. the name derives from the laundry. The interior. and mechanical pianos. once used as a council hall. thousands of lights create a magical atmosphere around the harbor. Standing beside the Diebsturm on Schrannenplatz is Lindau’s oldest building. Continuing east on Maximilianstrasse and Cramergasse brings you to the Marktplatz (Market Square) with a pretty. Peter’s Church. is the most attractive on the whole of the Bodensee. and sculptures. is the city’s most famous landmark. open daily 9 a. % 08382/ 944-073).m. to 5 p. including barrel organs. and Sunday from 11 a. houses the centuries-old town library (not open to the general public). this round tower with projecting upper turrets and oriel windows once served as the town jail (hence its name). A special attraction is the collection of mechanical musical instruments.D. completed in 1856. the Lutheran church on the left.m. square tower. Successive eras saw the additions of other architectural styles. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. In 1928. The building’s stepped gables are typical of the 15th-century Gothic style. A rectangular building with a flat wooden ceiling and a tall.). Stephan. the Peterskirche (St.m. 18th-century baroque town house called the Haus zum Cavazzen. tin and ceramic objects. the town’s famous harbor.m. you find the Stadtmuseum (Town Museum. Saturday from 2 to 5 p. orchestral instruments. Admission is 2€ ($2.

famed for its subtropical gardens. To reach it.m. Römerschanze (% 08283/6830). The biggest beach is Strandbad Eichwald (% 08283/5539). Three lakeside beaches (a beach is a Strandbad.75) for adults. Continuing east from Marktplatz on Schmiedgasse. 4 to Alwind. to 7 p.m.m. a smaller beach popular with families.m.m. is located in Lindenhof Park on the mainland.” later in this chapter).318 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany a barrel-vaulted ceiling and a fairly bare interior. on the mainland. 1 or no.) If you’re driving through this part of southern Germany. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. Admission is 2. you can play slot machines from noon to 2 a.50) for children. to 8 p. you may want to stop at Mainau on your way to or from Freiburg in the Black Forest (see “Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books. the Catholic church on the right. west of the causeway. and women. casino).m.m. and from 2 to 6 p. then bus no.25). this beach charges 2. or take bus no. Admission is 2. The third beach. in the train station. something dressy. is the most scenic area for biking. Lindenhofpark. Appropriate attire is a cut above casual: Men should wear a jacket and tie.m. makes for a pleasant daytrip from Lindau. The churches generally are open from 8 a. and blackjack and roulette from 3 p. 3 to Karmelbuckel.m.m. 2€ ($2. to 2 a. Strandbad Lindenhofbad (% 08283/6637).50) for children. .m. with a grassy lakeside area and three heated swimming pools.50€ ($3) for adults and 1. Enjoying lakeside activities For as little as 10€ ($13) you can rent a bike (Fahrrad. The bike-rental office. and a passport is required as proof of age.50€ ($3. Fahrrad-Station-Lindau (% 08382/21261). to 1 p. Admission to the beach is 3€ ($3. to 7:30 p. 2 to Anheggerstrasse. Taking a turn at the tables At Lindau’s glitzy Spielbank (shpeel-bank. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. you come to the waterside Stadtpark (City Park) with its modern Spielbank (casino). take bus no. Chelles Allee 1 (% 08382/27740). pronounced farahd) and go cycling along the shores of the Bodensee.50€ ($2) for children. is full of baroque decoration and has a frescoed ceiling. to 5 p.50€ ($3) for adults. Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau The island of Mainau.m. Maria Himmelfahrt (Church of the Ascension). pronounced strahndbod) are open in summer Monday through Friday from 10:30 a. 2€ ($2. and Saturday from 9:30 a. is located next to Lindau harbor in the Altstadt. on the mainland. The location is about a halfhour walk east along Uferweg.m..

and easily walk through Mainau. to dusk. hours are 7 a.bsb-online. Lindau (% 08382/2754810.) . You can also drive west from Lindau to Meersburg. several places on the island are open daily for dining or a quick snack.m.90€ ($5) for children.m. If you’re driving. which includes admission at Mainau. to 8 p. and holidays. Casual dining options include the Butterfly Bistro (open 10 a. Contact Autofähre Konstanz-Meersburg (% 07531/803666) for information and schedules. Count Lennart Bernadotte.m.m. from 8:30 a.–10 p. open 11 a. the Palm House.m. on the lake’s north shore.. gardens that his great-grandchild. A passionate plant lover. and Konstanz. chanterelle mushrooms in late summer. Mainau. The island’s culinary high point is the Schwedenschenke (% 07531/303-156. 11€ ($14) for seniors older than 65. so check before boarding. Generally.m. because cars are restricted on the island. winter hours are 9 a. costs 31€ ($39). not all of them stop at Mainau. Sundays. From March 24 through October 24. 3.). Admission includes the gardens. Service is less frequent on Saturdays.–6 p. From April through mid-October. would later develop. 31€ ($25) for family (parents and children up to 15). he laid the foundations for the Arboretum. Schützingerweg 2. Butterflies from throughout the world flit and flutter through the Butterfly House. and the Orangery.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 319 Getting to Mainau Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. Visiting the island of Mainau The semitropical island of Mainau. citrus and fruit trees. the current owner of this 110-acre botanical wonderland. lies 6km (4 miles) north of Konstanz. which features seasonal specialties such as asparagus in the spring. The island has a Mediterranean luxuriance that invites leisurely strolling. orchids. to 11 p. the largest city on the Bodensee. and an exhibition on Lake Constance in the castle. In 1853.m. and roses in the summer fill the gardens. tens of thousands of tulips in the spring.–8 p. the Butterfly House. provides daily passenger service by boat between Lindau. Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden purchased the island as a summer residence.m. A one-way fare from Lindau to Mainau is 11€ ($14). two ferries per hour make the 4. The baroque castle that forms the centerpiece of the island once was a residence of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. in an arm of the Bodensee known as the Überlingersee. and game dishes in the fall. you can park and leave your car in Meersburg.m.) and the Castle Café (open 11 a. and catch a car-ferry to Mainau. Palms. www. This is the best (and only) way to see Mainau. The island’s gardens are open daily year-round. Admission is 12€ ($15) for adults. azaleas.2km (21⁄2-mile) crossing (one per hour through the night) to Konstanz. hop on the ferry. a roundtrip Kombiticket. the Rose Garden.. where palms and orange trees grow and fragrant flowers bloom year-round.

by train. B500). . meat and fowl dishes with creamy sauces.mainau. call % 07531/3030 or visit www. which dominates the southwestern corner of Germany. You can explore the Black Forest in many ways. and the medieval university town of Freiburg. hiking trails. and pretty spots where stressedout city dwellers take die Kur (the cure) at health resorts fill the pineand spruce-filled forest. the mountainous. long associated with legends. You can easily reach Baden-Baden and Freiburg. Why did they call it that? Because from a distance the dark green pine and fir trees look black.) For the Germans themselves. runs parallel to the Rhine. come to two cities in particular: Baden-Baden. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) adjoins the forest to the east. The forest’s proximity to France and Switzerland has influenced the cooking you find in many Black Forest restaurants. a spa resort with thermal waters and an elegant casino. Schwarzwald Schinken (Black Forest smoked ham). Having a car opens up more of the countryside. If you want to sample other regional specialties. however. which serves as a boundary with Switzerland to the south and France to the west. amid nature. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. look for Zwetchgentorte (plum pastry). The name “Black Forest” is a translation of the Latin Silva Nigra. The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Travelers to the Schwarzwald (schvahrtz-vald).de. Villages with half-timbered buildings.320 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For more information. The famous cake is one of the specialties of a region that’s something of a culinary crossroads. legend-filled forest is a favorite place to spend holidays outdoors. the two towns I recommend as overnights. Visitors with limited time generally skip the area’s cure and sports aspects and focus instead on the scenic pleasures of the Schwarzwald. Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart). From cake to sausage: Black Forest treats Maybe you’ve heard of that famous thick. about 145km (90 miles) long and 40km (25 miles) wide. the name given to the forest by Romans some 2. One of the most popular auto trips is from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt on the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse (Black Forest High Road. fairy tales. or Black Forest. Most restaurants make their own Hauswurst (sausage) and guard the recipe.000 years ago. and wild game such as venison and boar. which runs almost the entire length of the forest. and cuckoo clocks. chocolatey cake flavored with cherry preserves and called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cherry Cake). Give yourself at least two hours to explore and enjoy the island. The Black Forest.

Peter Schwenningen St.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 321 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Durmersheim 0 10 mi Haguenau M er Brumath Weyersheim 36 A4 Canal de la Marne au Rhin Willgottheim Marlenheim Rheinau 500 Rh ine Pfaffenhoffen N 0 10 km Bouxwiller Mountain Malsch To Pforzheim Kuppenheim Gaggenau BadenBaden 462 294 Strasbourg Molsheim A840 A35 3 od To Calw A5 Bühl Achern Raumündzach Oberkirch 28 Barr Neuried 36 Offenburg FRANCE in 83 Freudenstadt Rhine Rh Gengenbach Ettenheim 3 500 462 du Selestat Rh ône I ll au Alpirsbach Zell am Harmersbach Wolfach Waldmössingen nal 468 Ca Elsenheim Muntzenheim Herbolzheim Kenzingen 294 33 Hornberg 462 Dunningen Zimmern Triberg A5 Waldkirch Kandel Triberger Wasserfälle Furtwangen A81 Freiburg im Breisgau Hirtzfelden Bad Krozingen Staufen Badenweiler 3 St. Märgen 500 A864 31 Donaueschingen Titisee Hüfingen Löffingen Schauinsland Hinterzarten Feldberg Bernau Lenzkirch Blumberg Bonndorf 314 Belchen Todtnau 317 Schluchsee 500 Häusern Kandern A5 Zell im Wiesental Hornberg A98 Hamburg Berlin A35 WaldshutTiengen E GERMANY Frankfurt am Main C Lörrach Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Rh Pratteln SWITZERLAND FR Basel Döttingen in e AN .

com). one of the summer sporting events in Europe. same phone. to 5 p. takes place in August. Baden-Baden still evokes that aura of 19th-century privilege. Trip time from Munich is about four hours.m). Located 174km (108 miles) south of Frankfurt in the northern portion of the Black Forest. on Schwarzwaldstrasse 52 (the B500 road into town. Finding information The tourist information office in the Trinkhalle. .. The town has the most up-to-date spa facilities in Germany. about 5km (3 miles) north of town. is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. about three hours. For train information. The composition of the slightly radioactive mineral water is almost the same today as when the Romans built the first bath complexes here in the third century.–6 p. from Munich.m. the A5 Autobahn between Basel and Frankfurt runs north–south through the entire region. you can easily access a second tourist office outside the center. If you’re driving into town.m. The drive south from Frankfurt takes about two hours.000 years.m. always available in front of the station. play tennis. and Dostoevsky — also helped to make Baden-Baden the most elegant and sophisticated playground in Germany. and Sunday 2 to 5 p.–1 p. open Mon–Sat 9 a. and people still flock here to soak and be healed of various ailments and to try their luck in the famous casino. If you’re not into a health regimen or interested in gambling. The personalities of the day — artists like Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town Baden-Baden is one of the world’s most famous spa resorts. Sun 9 a. from Frankfurt. European nobility and clients such as Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm I rediscovered Baden-Baden’s waters.m. The thermal springs bubbling up from beneath the town have been healing aches and pains for more than 2.m. Kaiser Allee 3 (% 07221/ 275-200. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter. It has a complete schedule of events and information on town and regional attractions. and ride horses. and Napoleon III gave the town a glamorous new aristocratic cachet. bahn. The horseracing season at nearby Iffezheim. www. Even the Roman emperor Caracalla traveled to this part of the Black Forest to get some relief from his arthritis. you take bus no. about four hours. and the A8 Autobahn runs east–west. connecting Baden-Baden to Munich. For those with a car. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. Baden-Baden attracts many sports and outdoor enthusiasts. 201 or a taxi. golf. To get into the center of town. Both offices offer a free hotelbooking service. who come to hike. In the 19th century. The Bahnhof (railway station) is at Baden-Oos. you may find Baden-Baden a bit boring-boring.m.) Getting to Baden-Baden You can easily reach Baden-Baden by train from anywhere in Germany. Brahms.

lstr LeopoldsInse platz ßs ch str 5 Marktplatz 2 Sc h l o Sol W er d er s tr a sse We rd ras erst se 10 Goetheplatz zs t r. 6 m sstrass e i 3 e . Hindenburgplatz e rs tr. . r A . Hir s Schloßs e trass r lmstr Wilhe .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 323 1 Baden-Baden Sch ütze Sc ger sb os el hl nn Tu Festspielhaus La ng asse nstr We tz eS Leop oldst r tra asse t els Ka p rs t ra ine uz zin Gö tt ss e Ka pu eng .2 mi 0.D ür e ras sse se t -S . ass tr. t r. strasse 12 ichstras se Sephanie- Lichtentaler Allee ss e Oosbach Kais er- W il h elm - e LudwigWilhelmPlatz 14 1515 St ra r Fried lerst rass Schil 16 Gausplatz Bertholdstrasse Bertholdplatz e Frem r rgst rsbe asse Hamburg Berlin nel i Information 0.2 km Mi cha elstu n Lic ta en ht 0 0 GER M AN Y Frankfurt rA ll e e BadenBaden ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel am Markt 5 Der Kleine Prinz 15 Hotel Belle Epoque 16 DINING Der Kleine Prinz 15 Münchner Löwenbräu 4 Park-Restaurant 14 Peter’s Gute Backstube 7 Stahlbad 13 ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss 1 Caracalla-Therme 2 Friedrichsbad 3 Kunsthalle 11 Kurgarten 8 Kurhaus 10 Lichtentaler Allee 12 Spielbank 9 Trinkhalle 6 Ha Munich rd äc ke rs Mic haelstunnel e Lang Vin cen tist rass e ns is e Lu lee ral ise Ka e Sch iben sse stra V in c rasse tist en 9 8 R e t tigstras se Kr e u asse Merkurstr sse stra Eich 13 Hardstra s s e Lic 11 sse tra hte nta ler Str ass e Ludwig-Wilh e l m- S t ra sse le . str n i rS e Ste h ac Str 4 rnsb a sse tra Ge e Jesuitensse rass nst platz hie p o S 7 .

V. AE. Bus no.hotel-am-markt-baden. and well-prepared food in two settings: on a romantic terrace beneath linden trees or in an indoor dining room with curved glass walls. Marktplatz 18. and 7–10 p. Everything is homemade from the best and freshest local ingredients. Main courses: 17€–29€ ($21–$36). there’s a little cafe in front. MC. Staying in Baden-Baden See also Chapter 22 for descriptions of the outstanding Der Kleine Prinz ($$$–$$$$) and Hotel Belle Epoque ($$$–$$$$). See map p.324 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting around Baden-Baden After you arrive in Baden-Baden. and inexpensive. which runs at ten-minute intervals. go on to stuffed rabbit with mushrooms and homemade noodles. and finish with fresh strawberries and homemade ice cream. Try one of the tasting menus. Many kinds of German sausage are on the menu with Bavarian specialties and a wide selection of cheeses.m. V. 323 In the hotel Der Kleine Prinz. Regional . affordable. Although there is nothing grand or glamorous about it. Fax: 07221/ 27-04-44.m. and the location on Marktplatz is quiet and convenient. and menu offerings change daily. 76530 Baden-Baden. MC. Hotel am Markt $ Lichtentaler Strasse 36. this 27-room hotel epitomizes the kind of small. Dining in Baden-Baden Der Kleine Prinz $$$ FRENCH/REGIONAL The restaurant in the hotel Der Kleine Prinz (“The Little Prince”) is one of the finest in the entire region. the rooms are comfortable (not all have private bathrooms). Rates include continental breakfast. See map p. % 07221/3464. % 07221/27-04-0. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. Tasting menus: 57€–75€ ($71–$94). and a meal in the intimate dining room served by the highly polished but friendly staff is a memorable experience. www. A one-way fare is 2€ ($2. you can walk everywhere. purchase tickets from the driver or from ticket machines at bus stops. modest. followed by a fish soup with dumplings. Bus: 201.50). AE. 323. 74€–80€ ($92–$100) double with bathroom. connects the railway station to most of the sites in town. 201. Bus: 201. Rates: 58€–62€ ($72–$77) double with toilet only. Münchner Löwenbräu $ –$$ GERMAN/BAVARIAN This restaurant serves simple. You can begin with assorted appetizers. DC. family-run hostelry you can still find all over Germany. move on to duck-liver parfait with salad.

Park-Restaurant $$$$ INTERNATIONAL/RHINELAND This fancy. Reservations required. 323. See map p. try the apple fritters. Augustaplatz 2. MC. Bus: 201. Specialties include sautéed gooseliver. with major museums and important historic sights that you must see. this restaurant with a garden terrace is a tranquil and charming place to dine.25–$8.50) is very good. MC.m. Pete’s can’t be beat for cheap. Bus: 201. although the atmosphere is like a fast-food restaurant.m.m.m.m. Baden-Baden isn’t a demanding town. Bus: 201. so it’s good to know about this inexpensive cafe on busy Leopoldsplatz.. Stahlbad $$$ –$$$$ CONTINENTAL/ALSATIAN In the center of town.50€–18€ ($8–$22). AE.. Peter’s Gute Backstube $ PIZZA/LIGHT MEALS Restaurants in Baden-Baden tend to be pricey. % 07221/9000. including prints. % 07221/24569. fresh fish.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 325 devotees order pork knuckles fresh from the grill. Open: Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. Open: Daily 10 a. along with seafood and regional Rhine Valley foods. DC. Sophienstrasse 10–12. % 07221/22311. to midnight. Main courses: 32€–42€ ($40–$52). sandwiches: 3€ ($3. Reservations required.m.) The pace is relaxed.m. The restaurant also has a popular beer garden. Exploring Baden-Baden When it comes to tourist destinations. and grilled lobster and fish. the coffee (all you can drink for 2€/$ 2. See map p. and lobster salad.m. Open: Mon–Fri 6:30 a. Schillerstrasse 4. See map p. V. . Sat 6:30 a. I also recommend stopping for a slice of afternoon Kuchen (cake). quickly served food. 323. No credit cards. For dessert. AE.75). % 07221/392-817.–7 p. Bus: 201. 323.m. mugs. roast saddle of venison or lamb. DC. The atmosphere and décor. 323. antique pewter plates. In Brenner’s Park Hotel.75). The emphasis is on French dishes. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter.–7 p. evoke an earlier era. Gernsbacher Strasse 9 (in the Altstadt). copper vessels. See map p. and 6–10 p. Sun 8 a. V.–6 p.m. or a lunchtime sandwich. Main courses: 15€–30€ ($19–$37). V. a slice of pizza. Open: Daily 7–9:30 p. AE. Main courses: Breakfast 5€–7€ ($6. Specialties include pepper steak and seasonal game dishes. try the lemon-grass mousse. DC. For dessert. Duck in here for a breakfast of eggs and ham. Main courses: 6. high-priced restaurant in the glamorous Brenner’s Park Hotel is one of the renowned hotel dining rooms of Europe and received a Michelin star in 2006. and engravings. warm gooseliver with Calvados sauce.

English commentary is available on a headset. Tickets cost 5€ ($6. If you don’t want to gamble. Men must wear jackets and ties.m. as you may think.) This casino is definitely not the kind of glitzy. Marlene Dietrich. Admission is 3€ ($3. The various casino rooms were designed in the style of an elegant French château. www.citybahn.500). in operation for more than 200 years. which also contain roulette. I recommend that you visit one of the bath complexes (see “Bathing in Baden-Baden” later in this chapter) and then spend a couple of hours wandering through the Altstadt. (until 3 a. to noon). the Kurhaus was turned into a “Conversation House.” a place for more formal gatherings and events. and other spots. Maximum bets are 10. pronounced ohs). Arrange in advance for tours in English. the building was a “Promenade House. At the north end of the promenade are the formally landscaped grounds of the Kurgarten and the neoclassical Kurhaus. classy evening wear.25). The tour costs 4€ ($5). to 2 a. . blackjack. and noon (Oct–Mar 10 a.75). Lichtentaler Allee. you can take a guided tour of the historic gaming rooms daily. every 30 minutes. lavish restaurant with a terrace overlooking the gardens with their shop-lined colonnades. once remarked. The City-Bahn (% 07221/991-998. making stops at the Kurhaus.. blackjack. the right wing of the building is Baden-Baden’s casino (see the next paragraph). poker. concert shell.000€ ($12. In the 1820s. azaleas.m. The casino is open for gambling daily from 2 p. women.m. between 9:30 a.326 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and the streets are geared toward pleasurable strolls and upscale shopping. and bingo machines. Fri–Sat). contain spa facilities. Kaiserallee 1 (% 07221/21060). Originally. a very recent addition. baccarat. The Kurhaus does not. “The most beautiful casino in the whole world is in Baden-Baden — and I have seen them all. the Caracalla Baths. and other games.m. to about 5 p. You find slot machines. informal. To enter the casino. and gas lights lit and extinguished by hand every day. one of the town’s most important is a sightseeing train that makes stops at all of Baden-Baden’s major attractions. you must possess a valid passport and be at least 21 years old.50€ ($3. and ornamental trees set along the bank of the narrow Oosbach River (called the Oos. Germany’s oldest casino.m. an elegant park promenade lined with rhododendrons. The site has remained the hub of Baden-Baden’s social scene ever since. The train runs daily from 9:30 a. poker.m. roses.10) for children 5 to 15. used for receptions and galas.” You can see for yourself by visiting the famous BadenBaden Spielbank (casino).” where the rich and prominent came to see and be seen. slotmachine-haven you find in Las Vegas. and the left wing houses a large. (The Russian writer Dostoevsky wrote The Gambler based on his disastrous experience at the tables here.25) for adults and 2. Minimum bets are 5€ ($6. in the vaulted cellars of the Kurhaus in attractive new rooms. Guests can play French and American roulette. the glamorous German film star. The time-honored center of activity is Lichtentaler Allee.m.

Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 327 In the Kurhaus gardens. After experiencing the Friedrichsbad. The baths are open daily from 9 a. involves a shower. The facility has a bar and a cafeteria. bubbles up from artesian wells at a temperature of about 160°F (70°C). a ruined castle originally called Hochbaden (High Baden). to 10 p.m. late works by Picasso) bequeathed by Baden-Baden collector Frieder Burda. Admission is 12€ ($15) for two hours. is located on a hillside above town. completed in 1909. (Wed until 8 p. “Here at Baden-Baden’s Friedrichsbad you lose track of time in 10 minutes and track of the world in 20. American abstract expressionists. now is used as the main tourist office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Baden-Baden). a new building designed by Richard Meier and opened in 2005. Kaiserallee 3 (% 07221/275-200). two saunas. massages.). Note: Clothes may not be worn in the Friedrichsbad.m. and three freshwater baths ranging from warm to 60°F (15°C). which takes about three hours. to 10 p. Medicinal treatment includes mud baths.m.m. showcases visiting contemporary art exhibits. where guests once sipped the salty. . The Altes Schloss (Old Palace). rich in sodium chloride. surrounded by an open walkway and decorated with frescoes depicting Black Forest legends. but the scene is au naturel in the saunas. Admission is 5€ ($6. Bathing in Baden-Baden Getting into hot water is what Baden-Baden is all about. From the 11th to the 15th centuries. to 6 p. The complete bath program. you decide on your own bath regimen. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-940). Admission is free. a brush massage. and women and men share the pools. Bathers usually begin in cooler pools. thermal steam baths. Friedrichsbad. The Staatliche Kunsthalle (State Art Gallery).m.” Admission is 21€ ($26) for three hours without massage. The slightly radioactive water. sits adjacent to the Kunsthalle and houses an impressive collection of modern paintings and sculptures (German expressionists. slightly radioactive waters of Baden-Baden. and whirlpools. working up to the warm water. You must wear bathing suits in the pools.m. You get a nice view of the town and the Black Forest from this fortresslike structure.25) for adults and 4€ ($5) for students. At the CaracallaTherme (Caracalla Baths). The baths are open daily from 8 a. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-920). (last admission is two hours before closing). Museum Frieder Burda. followed by a 30-minute period of rest and relaxation. Lichtentaler Allee 8a (% 07221/300-763).m. you’d better understand what Mark Twain meant when he said. The two buildings are open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a. you also find the Trinkhalle (Pump Room). 29€ ($36) with soap-brush massage (31⁄2 hours). The building. dates back to 1877 and follows an ancient Roman-Irish bath method. Hochbaden was the seat of the margraves of Baden. The baths also have a sauna area. a large hall built in the 1840s.

operas.328 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Baden-Baden Sophienstrasse and Gernsbacher Strasse. candies. linens. opened in 1998. is a bit more international. carries beeswax. cosmetics. Only 111km (69 miles) southwest of Baden-Baden.m. are part of a flower-flanked pedestrian zone. Herrenkommode. Freiburg bursts with . is created by one of Germany’s most emulated designers. This is where you buy those elegant duds required to enter the casino.500-seat Festspielhaus (Festival Hall). and handbags. The women’s wear available at Escada Boutique. focusing on designers Giorgio Armani and Renee Lazard. this picturesque city with its medieval Altstadt nestles in a plain below high mountain peaks. The best men’s store. www. The hall presents classical music concerts. Langestrasse 38 (% 07221/31453). lined with some of the most expensive boutiques in Germany. Cuckoo clocks. In the the days can get very hot. and wine. Although surrounded by alpine scenery. Münchner Moden. The building is the second-largest opera and concert hall in Europe. puppets. where the inventory includes luggage. schnapps. Freiburg enjoys the benefits of warm air currents that come up from the Mediterranean through Burgundy. Leather goods by Gold Pfiel and other manufacturers are sold at Inka. Sophienstrasse 16 (% 07221/29292). Breisgau. and ballets throughout the year. and cottons during warmer months. now part of the German state of Baden-Württemberg but once part of the Roman Empire. wallets. Another shop. Discovering the performing arts in Baden-Baden Baden-Baden’s 2. and offers Austrian and Bavarian silks. is a historical region stretching from the Rhine to the Black Forest. cooling things down. Beim Alten Bahnhof 2 (% 07221/301-3101. and other locally produced items can be found at Boulevard..000 students).festspielhaus.000 residents (and an additional 30. fast-flowing streams called Bächle (little brooks) that run alongside the streets in stone-lined channels are ancient cooling systems. plus many varieties of bottled honey. carries women’s designs in loden-colored wool during autumn and winter. Freiburg is the largest city in the Schwarzwald and considered to be its capital.and honey-based products such as candles. The Altstadt’s splashing fountains and shallow. Lichtentalerstrasse 13 (% 07221/31090). Schwarzwald Bienen-Honig-Haus. but a cool mountain breeze called the Höllentaler flows down into the town like clockwork twice every night between 7 and 7:30 and 9 and 9:30 p. Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books With a population of about 200. Sophienstrasse 18 (% 07221/390-448). The town is called Freiburg im (in) Breisgau to distinguish it from other German and Swiss Freiburgs. Sophienstrasse 26 (% 07221/23955). Lichtentaler Strasse 21 (% 07221/24495).

on the last weekend in June. a four-day public wine-tasting festival takes place in the Münsterplatz. Wine? Yes. more than you find near any other city in Germany. surrounding the city are 1. 8 Augustiner- S ch los sb erg rin g strasse Platz der Alten Ber Synagoge toldstrasse str. str. Herrens trasse Bert . sse tra ns e t r Ga Schreibe rstrasse Dr eis am Wallstrasse neggrin eiffe g Gr torring Schwaben Fa ule rst t st r a ss ALLEEe GARTEN r Strasse Ad e l hauserstr . Hauptbahnhof stras Jak Bu obStrarckha sse rdt- Bis Ka strarlsse Rosa Friedrich ring se Leo pold STADTGARTEN ring Tu lhe lms tra sse l . And winegrowing always requires celebrations. and in autumn. Joseph- rasse ras se Less ings tras se Kr on en str se as Erbprinzenstr. Werderring Ma r i e n . Holzm ark t on Gerberau Mün gass zSalz nwal e s t ra de r s t r ss e . at g a h a u ssse Rathausplatz Jo - Str as se rass e u c h- i R r mstr1 Sch iffs tr. the smell of new wine fills the narrow streets even as snow is already falling on those nearby summits. In Freiburg.s tr . 7 11 platz 9 9 K SCHLOSSBERG Schwabentor In se 10 Augustinerweg Kartäuserstrasse Kaiser- Luisenst t r a ss Dreisams e Leo-Woh Strasse lebInformation Post office Railway Schillerstrasse ACCOMMODATIONS Rappen 3 Zum Roten Bären 9 DINING Oberkirchs Weinstuben 2 Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede 10 Zum Roten Bären 9 ATTRACTIONS Augustinermuseum 8 Erzbischöflisches Palais 5 Historisches Kaufhaus 6 Münster 4 Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Wentzingerhaus) 7 Neues Rathaus 1 Schlossberg 11 Hamburg Berlin GE R M AN Y Frankfurt Munich Freiburg springtime blooms while snow still covers the surrounding peaks. Hab stras sburgerse alle Fried richs Rheinstr e asse 0 0 0. fd er Zin ne n Scho ferstr .1 mi trass ma rk e Colombistr asse - Meria nstr a ss e Eise nba hnst Ga tte ckr ing se ph e Ro olds trass Ka ise r- Un s r s s s it ä t e Sedan - UNIVERSITÄT ivetra A L T S T A D T Gr ü Belfortstra sse Wi Ra m Martinstor pa v iktstr. the square outside Freiburg’s magnificent Gothic cathedral. Mo zart st COLOMBIPARK Au i r.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 329 Freiburg Kath strasarinense Heb stras else Meria nstr.1 km 0.600 acres of vineyards. Sc hu 2 3 Münsterplatz 4 6 Moltke ste 5 rs t r.

with performances in giant outdoor tents.bahn. Weinkost is a long wine-tasting event in midAugust.m.) Getting to Freiburg Frequent trains connect Freiburg to Baden-Baden and other cities throughout Germany and Europe. The train trip from Frankfurt takes about two hours.m.m. October through May. Saturday 10 a. to 5:30 p. is open June through September.330 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Festivals are a year-round part of life in Freiburg. the city plays host to the two-week-long Zeltmusik Festival (Tent Music Festival). and sells passes. located right outside. freiburg.m.m. to noon. Plus-Punkt. Monday to Friday 10 a. and Saturday from 8 a.60€ ($5. Although the town was heavily damaged during World War II. and exploring the sights in the surrounding Schwarzwald is easy and fun.m. Finding information The tourist information office. Wandering through its ancient streets is a pleasure at any time of year.m. And in June. For those coming by If you’re driving from the Bodensee (Lake Constance). the A5 Autobahn runs north–south through the Black Forest. Saturday 10 a.50). Freiburg’s medieval charm has been preserved. to 2 p.m. to 8 p..m. The . with bonfires and parades. The office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Their pre-Lenten carnival called Fasnet is one of the best in Germany. Sunday 10 a. take B31 west. to 7 p. A oneway fare costs 2€ ($2.m. Salzstrasse 3 (% 0761/451-1500) in the Altstadt. to noon.. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. Monday through Friday 10 a. RVF (% 0761/207-280) operates the city’s bus and tram system.75). a day ticket costs where you find all the major attractions. The large student presence adds a lively. about eight hours. For train information.. Rooms are generally on the small side and simply but comfortably furnished.m. Staying in Freiburg Rappen $ –$$ Altstadt The best rooms in this charming. Sunday 10 a. to 2:30 p. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. If you’re traveling in the Black Forest. has schedules and information. 20-room inn have smack-dab views of Freiburg’s mighty cathedral. from Hamburg. to 6 p. is easily walkable.m.m. www. Rotteckring 14 (% 0761/388-1880. providing access to Freiburg. including a bombing in error by the German Luftwaffe. youthful edge to the old city. The May Frühlingsmess (Spring Fair) and October Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair) both last ten days.. low-key. Getting around Freiburg The Altstadt. Freiburg makes for an atmospheric overnight stay.

25 rooms all have private bathrooms or showers. 329. Rates include buffet breakfast. oldfashioned food: tasty soups (bean. 329. pork filets in morel cream sauce). AE. The tavern sits on a small square flanked by a . with a pretty painted facade and a list of innkeepers that goes back to the 14th century. MC.hoteloberkirchs. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2 p. This place serves hearty portions of good. 79098 Freiburg. % 0761/31353. Dining in Freiburg Oberkirchs Weinstuben $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This historic wine tavern on Freiburg’s busy Münsterplatz. Oberlinden 12. and seasonal dishes like pheasant.m. Fixed-price menus: 18€–21€ ($22–$26). Above the Weinstube. % 0761/387-870.” is the oldest inn in Germany.roterbaeren. See map p. You find plenty of activity right outside the hotel on Münsterplatz. meat dishes (veal schnitzel. This wonderfully atmospheric and unpretentious inn has only 25 rooms and one of the best restaurants in Freiburg for traditional Black Forest fare and regional wines from the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards (see the next section. MC. Rates: 99€–110€ ($124–$137) double. or Cathedral Square. Tram: 1. provides good regional cooking and comfortable rooms. 79098 Freiburg. Doubles range from 126€ to 147€ ($157–$184). V. Rates include breakfast. and 6:30–9:15 p. Rooms in the older section have more See map p. MC. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt Zum Roten Bären. including continental breakfast. and the surrounding neighborhood is wonderfully picturesque. those in the modern wing have little balconies overlooking leafy gardens and red-tiled rooftops. You can dine in the Weinstube (wine tavern) with its ceiling-high ceramic stove or at a table on the square. AE. Rates: 145€ ($181) double. this Weinstube is the most picturesque and romantic spot in Freiburg. 329. Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede $ –$$ Altstadt REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL For outdoor summer dining. AE. Fax: 0761/382-252. Münsterplatz 13. or vegetable). pea.hotelrappen. Münsterplatz 22. DC. poultry.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 331 units with private bathrooms have showers. V. www. 79098 Freiburg. Standing just outside the hotel is one of Freiburg’s medieval gateways. % 0761/202-6868. Reservations site of a big weekday outdoor market. “Dining in Freiburg”). www. Closed Jan. or 5. All trams stop just behind the V. which means “At the Red Bear. Main courses: 14€–25€ ($17–$31). See map p. www. 4. DC.

Give yourself at least two hours to stroll and poke around.m. cooked ham. Exploring Freiburg Most of what you want to see is in the Altstadt. MC. is a light. and a wooded hill called the Schlossberg on the east. MC. The good food arrives in extremely large portions. to 6 p. The chef’s daily recommendation may be cream of tomato soup. one of Germany’s masterpieces of Gothic architecture. A simpler Vesperkarte (late-evening menu) is available from 10 p.) All visitors eventually congregate in the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square). % 0761/387-870. % 0761/ 202-790. such as Spargel (white asparagus). and Sunday 1 to 6 p. a specialty of the region. supposedly a sign of the architect’s contempt for the city fathers. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 3 p. to midnight. site of Freiburg’s rose-colored Münster (Cathedral. or 6). MapInsel 1. Oberlinden 12 (just inside the Schwabentor). Tram: 1. DC.m. The menu presents a full array of wonderfully prepared dishes using local ingredients. is one of the most beautiful in Germany. V. V. The cathedral contains some superb stained-glass windows. 43€ ($54). Fixed-price menus: 35€ ($44). Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL The “Red Bear” has one of the best kitchens in Freiburg and one of the most authentically atmospheric dining rooms. an area bounded by the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) on the west side of the inner city. a magnificent openwork spire atop an open octagonal belfry. Its West Tower.m. dating from the 13th century. Gothic elements had been incorporated into the design. This part of town is medieval Freiburg at its most appealing. The building is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. The cathedral was begun in 1200 in the Romanesque style. a salad with smoked lox. Zwiebelschmelze is a spinach-and-vegetable-filled ravioli covered with sautéed onions. . AE. Gargoyles peer down from the tower’s roof. and Hollandaise sauce. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. 329. The Spargelpfannkuchen is asparagus served with a special pancake. or tagliatelle with shrimps. where you can sample seasonal dishes. A young Rivaner wine. Open: Daily noon to midnight. but by the time the structure was completed in 1620.m. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). In the hotel Zum Roten Bären. grown on the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards. and 6:30–11:30 p. Tram: 1.m. the earliest. are in the south chancel. available in May and June.332 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rushing Bächle (little brook) and horse-chestnut trees. fruity accompaniment. one of them with its backside turned toward the archbishop’s house across the square. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19).m. the Dreisam river on the south. This place is a good one for trying Zwiebel (onion) dishes. See map p. 329. 5. Tram: 4. % 0761/35037. Admission to the cathedral is free. See map p.

called Bächle. you can climb to the top of the Münster’s famous West Tower...m. They were first devised to keep the city clean and to help fight fires. The neighborhood around the Schwabentor is called the Insel (Island) because rushing streams.. Augustinerplatz (% 0761/201-2531). On the west side of the square is Freiburg’s Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). built in 1761 for a local painter and sculptor and now home to the Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Town History Museum. East of the university you find the Martinstor (St. Freiburg has many lovely old fountains and a unique system of streams called Bächle (little brooks) that date back to the 12th century. For a wonderful view of Freiburg and the distant mountains. near the Schlossberg. The mid-18th-century Erzbischöflisches Palais (Archbishop’s Palace) has a pale-yellow facade and an ornate wrought-iron balcony. Chestnut trees and a fountain add to the charm of Rathausplatz. From April through October. to 5 p. is still used as the town’s official reception hall. another busy square just west of the cathedral. Sunday from 1 to 5 p. the chief attraction in the Insel .m. A 14th-century Augustinian monastery with a yellow baroque front houses the Augustinermuseum (Augustinian Friars Museum).m. with narrow cobblestone streets and restored houses once used by fishermen and tanneries. The Schwabentor (Swabian Gate). the tower is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a. pointed-roof watchtowers and a 16thcentury gallery decorated with the statues of four Habsburg emperors.m. November through March. You can see the Bächle running alongside many Altstadt streets. closed Monday. the city’s patron saint. dates from around 1200 and stands on the southeast edge of the Altstadt.50). surround it.m. if you step in a Bächle. you will marry a person from Freiburg. when Freiburg was a walled city. The third building to the left of the Historisches Kaufhaus is the baroque Wentzingerhaus. comprised of two highly decorated 16th-century merchants’ houses connected by an arcade. The brooks channel water from the Dreisam River through the old university town. A trio of historic buildings stands along the south side of Münsterplatz. one of two surviving gates from the Middle Ages. Martin’s Gate). a Gothic customs and financial administration center with protruding. across from the cathedral. the other city gate. to 5 p. % 0761/201-2515). Paintings on the tower include one of St.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 333 The Bächle of Freiburg To help the town stay cool in the hot summer sun. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. George. The Insel is the most picturesque quarter in Freiburg. The oxblood-colored Historisches Kaufhaus (Historical Department Store). admission is 2€ ($2. According to local folklore.

50) for adults.m. you can climb 91 steps to an observation tower for a panoramic view toward the Feldberg. Along the way...000 years. the Belchen Seilbahn.m. pick up B317 west to Utzenfeld and follow the narrow road northwest to the Belchen. one of the loveliest of the Black Forest lakes.750-ft. From the parking lot.m. the cable car operates daily from 9:30 a.40€ ($8) for adults. (You need about an hour to get to the falls and back. A new. The cable car operates daily from 9 a.334 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Quarter. another popular Black Forest lake. You can also ascend the Schlossberg by cable car (% 0761/39855) from the Stadtgarten (City Gardens). The area also has easy hiking trails. From Titisee. to 7 p. tile roofs in small villages. the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. to 5 p. head back north along B500 to Titisee. green hillside pastures.m. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. The roundtrip costs 6€ ($7. twisting road to Schauinsland. the round-trip ride costs 6.m.m.m. Inside you find a collection of religious art spanning more than 1. From the Schwabentor. October through January from 11:30 a.50€ ($5. Continue south to the hamlet of Todtnau. Admission is 2€ ($2. From the grassy summit you can see the Feldberg and other nearby mountains.) From Freiburg. 4. you can see the highest peaks of the Alps to the south. takes you to the peak for one of the most spectacular views in the Schwarzwald. a famous mile-high peak. a nearby peak. to 5 p. where you find a 1. you pass some of the forest’s highest peaks and two of its most beautiful lakes. head south on Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse to Günterstal and follow the narrow. to 6 p. The round-trip takes about an hour. The roundtrip fare is 3€ ($3.) From Todtnau.m. 4€ ($5) for children. From Schluchsee. Driving through the Upper Black Forest From Freiburg. a pathway climbs up the Schlossberg. Continue on B317 east and turn south on B500 to Schluchsee. the Feldbergbahn (% 07655/8019). you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Black Forest and be back in time for dinner. and the vast Rhine plain to the west.) summit of a peak called Seebuck.m. The cable car operates June through September from 10 a.6km-long (1-mile) footpath to an impressive series of waterfalls. where another enclosed gondola. backtrack to Utzenfeld and follow B317 east to Feldberg. .50). and on a clear day. takes visitors to the 1. From the Belchen.50) for children.450m (4. a hill that provides good views of the cathedral. to 4:30 p. you can return to Freiburg by heading west along B31. enclosed gondola. Belchenstrasse 13 (% 07673/888-280).m.75). Give yourself about 90 minutes for the gondola ride and a stroll on the summit.

As early as 1840. Triberg-Gemmelsbach (% 07722/96300). music boxes. (Note: Triberg can be jammed with cuckoo-clock shoppers in the summer. In June. Josef Weisser. England. located on B33 between Triberg and Hornberg. a painter of clock faces. clocks have been produced in the Black Forest. One of the most interesting museums on the route is the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum). The shop is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. Discovering nightlife in Freiburg The Konzerthaus (Concert House) plays host to a variety of events. huge tents house the annual Zeltmusik festival (Tent Music Festival).m. to 5 p. Turkey. in Münsterplatz.. Information about all venues and events. launched the business in 1824. In addition to cuckoo clocks.m.) You may also want to visit the Haus der 1000 Uhren (House of 1. and Visa. when the first wooden clock was made in Waldau. 48km (30 miles) northeast of Freiburg on B33. to 5 p. Clock watchers with time on their hands may want to drive the Deutsche Uhrenstrasse (German Clock Road. An der Bundesstrasse 33. Along the way. and November through March from 10 a. The museum is open daily April through October from 9 a. ranging from classical music to theater to pop concerts. Russia. Freiburg’s cathedral (described earlier). is a good place to go.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 335 Time out: Buying a Black Forest cuckoo clock Since 1667. which emphasizes jazz but includes other musical styles. The shop ships to the United States and Canada and takes American Express. Triberg is one of the stops on this 320km (200-mile) scenic route through the Black Forest from VillingenSchwenningen to Bad Duerrheim. You can’t miss the shop: A giant cuckoo clock and water wheel are in front.m.m. including program schedules and ticket sales.m.m. the museum has timepieces from all around the world and from all epochs. If you’re looking for a traditional timepiece to take home from the Black Forest. and America. his great-great-grandson is the current owner.deutsche-uhrenstrasse. shops also sell woodcarvings. you find all kinds of museums and sights related to clocks. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. and other traditional crafts. Furtwangen (% 07723/920-117). Black Forest clocks were being shipped to China. MasterCard.000 Clocks). Triberg.50€ ($3) for students. and a program of organ recitals in the Münster. Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1. Diners Club. to 6 p. Summer also brings a series of chamber-music concerts to the Historisches www. 2. . is available from the tourist information office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Freiburg). In addition to the world’s largest collection of Black Forest clocks.

open Wed–Sat 10 p. is open daily from 11 a.m. Neither club charges a cover.m. house. to midnight.000 university students. Drifler’s Club (no phone. open Thurs–Sat midnight to 4 a. .. serves drinks and plays background punk.–3:30 a. Two clubs in one. and funk. Hausbrauerei Feierling. Schnewlinstrasse 3 (% 0761/ 32475.) plays house and techno for dancers.m. the city also has a thriving bar and club scene. or 5).336 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany With some 25. a brewpub with a popular beer garden across the street. Tram: 1 or 2). Tram: 1.m. Gerberau 46 (% 0761/26678. Crash. 4. in the basement.

The looming ruins of the ancient castle. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting romantic Heidelberg ᮣ Discovering the cultural delights of Stuttgart ᮣ Exploring historic Nuremberg devote this chapter to three special cities in central Germany. and neoclassical eras. located on the Neckar River in the state of BadenWürttemberg. But some of its legendary romantic allure stems from what was basically a 19thcentury public-relations campaign. 88km (55 miles) south of Frankfurt.S. summer is also a time when droves of visitors from around the globe invade this beautiful city. baroque. Stuttgart. is renowned for its castle and its university. Renaissance. is one of Germany’s most romantic cities. on the Neckar River. Nuremberg. the old lanes and squares. (See the “Heidelberg” map in this chapter. Heidelberg.) According to a song from the operetta The Student Prince. the leafy hills and woodlands beside . the cultural center of this region.Chapter 18 Heidelberg. Today. or Nürnberg as it’s known in German. This architecture is certainly a major part of Heidelberg’s appeal. is a historic and very attractive city in the state of Bavaria. summertime in Heidelberg is a time for music and romance. can easily be visited as a side trip from Heidelberg. so you still can see original buildings from the Middle Ages. Army base. I Heidelberg: Romance on the River Heidelberg. Heidelberg is one of the few German cities that was not leveled by air raids in World War II (WWII). Both are castle-crowned cities worth visiting for a day or two. which is set in Heidelberg. Many Americans know Heidelberg because of the nearby U. Stuttgart.

Fri–Sat in English) from April through October. daily (Mon–Thurs in German. From Easter through October. The office has maps and brochures.rnf-schifffahrt. and 2:30 p.m. guided bus tours of the city (in German and English). The train trip to Heidelberg’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is only one hour from Frankfurt and about three hours from Nuremberg. The cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. 6€ ($7. and unlimited use of public transportation. For train schedules and information.m. Getting there Heidelberg is easily accessible by train from all major cities in Germany and Europe.75) for adults. to 6 p. www. The great writer Goethe and many other poets. and Sunday from 10 a. The cost is 7€ ($8. They praised the town in their writings and immortalized it in their music and paintings. Saturday at 10:30 a. call Deutsche Bahn % 11861 or visit www. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. Boats depart from the landing stage near the Stadthalle. Finding information The tourist information office. The Heidelberg Card. and only on Saturday from November through March..m. The town came to symbolize old-world German Romanticism at its most picturesque.. painters. Rhein-Neckar-Fahrgastschiffahrt (% 06221/20181.m. provides admission to Heidelberg Castle and discounts on Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the Neckar. www.25) for students and children.m. 10€ ($13) for students and offers daily guided boat tours (commentary in German and English) on the Neckar River between Heidelberg and Neckarsteinach.. to 7 p. (closed Sun Nov–Mar) including the castle.m. Willy-Brandt-Plaza 1 (% 06221/19433. good for two days and available for 14€ ($17) from the tourist information office and at many hotels. Purchase your ticket from the tourist information office at the train station. The round-trip tour lasts about three hours and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. From April through October. and musicians “discovered” Heidelberg in the early 19th century. . November through March the tour takes place only on Saturday at 2:30 p.m. and the youthful student population all had great appeal to the German Romantics. depart from Universitätsplatz on Thursday and Friday at 2:30 p. between the TheodorHeuss-Brücke (bridge) and the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). Purchase tickets at the tourist information office at the train station.50) for children.m. 5€ ($6.m. Taking a guided tour A two-hour guided walking tour of the city departs from the Lion’s Fountain on Universitätsplatz at 10:30 a. walking and boat tours. outside the main train station. and Sunday and holidays at 10:30 a.

Haspelg.1 mile N 100 meters . Untere St asse Jubiläumsplatz r ecka re N Unte Bauamtsgasse nstr. emie -str. kteufel Am Hac rst Necka r. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei Restaurant 15 Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant 2 Mensurstube 7 Simplicissimus 6 Zum Goldenen Schaf 3 Zum Roten Ochsen 13 Zum Sepp’l 14 kar Nec Leyer gasse Mönc a Neck Fisc rstad en Lauerstr. Land Schlangenweg cksä EICHENDORFFANLAGE gg we en ph oso l i Ph 7 7 Hölderlin. se lgas ge r. ndst DINING Die Kurfürstenstube 1 Hotel Zum Ritter St.ACCOMMODATIONS weg Philosophenrtchen gärtchen e Neu nhe antelg Grosse M S c h if f g a 1 r. eg . Theate Kettengasse Friedri chstr. Ingrimst e Universitätsplatz San 5 Zw el nn tu rg e sb os hl Sc Castle 16 tr. rg Marstallstr. 12 arls Karlsplatz K ATTRACTIONS Heiliggeistkirche 8 Kurpfälzisches Museum 2 Marktplatz 10 Rathaus 12 Heidelberg Castle 16 Studentenkarzer 4 Universitätsplatz 5 e nbe ies Fr tr. Heumarkt Ob Fischmarkt 8 10 Marktplatz 11 11 Kornmarkt Bur gw sse 3 4 2 2 Haupts tr. Stuttgart. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei 15 Alte Brücke ime r La r. erianstr ing ers tr. and Nuremberg Akad Semin arstr. frieds Land sse er Unt au er F Marz rP elz Sc hl udwig Karl-L tr. Biene Karpfe Zie Krame ts Haup tr. Semmel Steingasse Dreikön herg. 0 0 Werrgas Bism ar Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main äuser Ziegelh str. igstr. loss Sch ue Ne Schlossberg Schloss nweg unne Wolfsbr str. 9 13 sg. g d lba Mitte ngass . adg erb . Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Ob r ere Fa ule Ne ue tr. gei 14 eilig upt Ha str. 15 15 H ststr. s-s os Grab dga ler Pelz SCHLOSSGARTEN 15 sse rstr. AL TS TAD T 6 M rg. 7 hg. str. Schlossber g ch Neue S l os s - st r . gasse Plöck Kling ento rstr. S To Bismarckplatz enga Plöck Heidelberg 339 1 1 To Train Station rich-Ebert-Anlage Fried eg nw ule Heidelberg Munich Das Hotel am Rathaus 9 Der Europäische HofHotel Europa 1 Hotel Hirschgasse 7 Hotel Zum Ritter St.

The main squares in the Altstadt are Universitätsplatz. costs 8€ ($10). beneath Heidelberg’s Schloss (castle). Getting around Heidelberg After you arrive in the Altstadt you can walk everywhere. the round-trip fare is 3€ ($3. in the Altstadt. The Schloss crowns a hill to the south. . Das Hotel am Rathaus $ –$$ Altstadt This hotel is one of Heidelberg’s nicest and most affordable. a 24-hour pass. Some larger rooms are suitable for families. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2.340 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Orienting yourself Your first glimpse of “romantic old Heidelberg” as you emerge from the Hauptbahnhof on the west side of town may be disappointing. A Bergbahn (funicular. a focal point for famed Heidelberg University. valid for up to five persons traveling within a group. The 17 rooms are small but very pleasant. Hauptstrasse.m. Many bus and streetcar lines intersect at Bismarckplatz in the town center. The one potential drawback: The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. up to the castle. dominated by the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit). a wide. Fischmarkt. between 9 a. Across the Neckar River is the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way).75) for adults. However. Heidelberg is crisscrossed with a network of streetcars and buses operated by the local transportation department. Modern Heidelberg centers on Bismarckplatz (streetcar lines 1 and 2 run there from the train station). 2€ ($2. an area of tall buildings and shopping plazas. The Altstadt is a long wedge of slate-roofed buildings along the Neckar River. Buses 41 and 42 travel between the railway station and Universitätsplatz on the west side of the Altstadt. above the Altstadt. It’s located right in the heart of the city on the Marktplatz. and a botanical garden. so I recommend that you take a streetcar or bus to Bismarckplatz or Universitätsplatz to begin your explorations.50).m. like many in Germany and throughout Europe. a zoo. is where you want to focus your sightseeing activities. a popular walking trail. The city. has a modern and a historical face. or Market Square. % 06221/22796) runs from Kornmarkt. the Marktplatz. with simple modern furnishings and tiled bathrooms with showers. to the east.50) for children and students. and the modern one is what you encounter first. daily. busy pedestrian street with narrow medieval lanes on both sides. HSB (% 06221/5132000). and the Kornmarkt. and 7:40 p. Staying in Heidelberg See also the listing for the outstanding Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa ($$$$) in Chapter 22. The Altstadt (Old Town). the Altstadt is about a half-hour’s walk from the train station. runs from Bismarckplatz into the compact Altstadt.

Most of the rooms contain tiled bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. Stuttgart. but the beds are comfortable. minimalist style. The medium-sized rooms have light-colored hardwood floors and are furnished with comfortable beds and large wooden cupboards. Georg is a well-preserved rarity from the German Renaissance. Fax: 06221/454-111. % 06221/1350. Fax: 06221/ 147-337. 69117 Heidelberg. AE. www. Hirschgasse 3. Hauptstrasse 178. Hotel Hirschgasse $$$ –$$$$ North Side of the River Nestled on the hillside of a historic lane adjoining the famous Philosophenweg on the north side of the Kulturbrauerei $$ Altstadt This small (21 rooms). Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). The Mensurstube restaurant is one of the most historically atmospheric spots in town (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. 339. V. MC. Bus: 34 from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop. and all come equipped with shower-tub-whirlpool combinations in the bathrooms. The hotel doesn’t have public lounges. % 06221/14730. 69100 Heidelberg.hirschgasse. The hotel dates from 1472 and has lodged such impressive figures as Mark Twain and Bismarck. 339. www. The dining room specializes in duck breast and venison. hip hotel. V. The Altstadt is a ten-minute walk from the hotel. Heiliggeiststrasse 1. later in this chapter).de. the front rooms also can be noisy because of neighboring cafes and restaurants. Georg $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Located right on the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse. % 06221/4540. See map p. the main street in the Altstadt. the hotel is among Heidelberg’s sightseeing attractions thanks to its highly decorated. 69117 339. Bathrooms are adequately roomy with tub-shower combinations (four . The hotel has a cool. Rates include breakfast buffet. www. Built in 1592 as the home of a cloth merchant. Rates: 144€–206€ ($180–$257) double. the Zum Ritter St. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC. Fax: 06221/ 135-230. Hotel Zum Ritter St. just a couple of minutes’ walk from the Rates: 99€–154€ ($124–$193) double. Many of the 40 rooms are modest in size.ritter-heidelberg. this historic hotel enjoys a tranquil and romantic setting. Although they have Romantic Altstadt views. DC. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 4-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Heiliggeiststrasse on the east side of Marktplatz). AE. Rates: 160€–345€ ($200–$431) double. DC. gabled facade. is connected to a microbrewery. V. The 20 rooms are all sumptuously comfortable suites decorated with Laura Ashley fabrics. DC. and Nuremberg 341 See map p. See map p.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. AE. MC.

Leyergasse 6. The house specialty is saddle of venison for two (in season). Fixed-price menus: 20€–40€ ($25–$50). DC. A good beginning may be the snail soup with herbs or tomato soup with whipped cream. The restaurant uses only the highest-quality seasonal ingredients. Hotel Zum Ritter St. See map p. www. Hauptstrasse 178. carpaccio of scallops and Scottish wild salmon with mushrooms in raspberry vinaigrette. AE. and filet of turbot with celery on saffron foam with coriander tortellini. Fax: 06221/900-099. the hotel doesn’t have airconditioning. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). In Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. try the Dortmunder Actien-Brauerei. MC. Georg $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL At this restaurant. MC. Main courses: 10€–15€ ($13–$19). Fixed-price menus: 60€–80€ ($75–$100). Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 3-minute walk south to Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage).m. The menu is in English. . Open: Daily noon to 2 p. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p.heidelberger-kulturbrauerei. and 6:30–11:30 p.m. 339. AE.m. located in one of Heidelberg’s most famous Renaissance buildings. Rates: 116€–149€ ($134–$186) double. Locals flock here when this dish is on the menu. Main courses: 25€–37€ ($31–$46). with fixed-price and à la carte meals. when tables are set up in the microbrewery’s beer garden. V.342 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rooms have showers only). AE. See map p. 339. The dessert menu is equally scrumptious. See map p. Look for culinary delights such as cream of watercress soup with poached quail egg and summer truffles in tempura. Reservations recommended. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). but the cuisine is mainly Unfortunately. and 6–10 p. you may want to dine at the on-site restaurant (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. % 06221/1350. Dining in Heidelberg Die Kurfürstenstube $$$$ Altstadt FRENCH The best dining spot in Heidelberg is the wood-paneled Die Kurfürstenstube in the deluxe Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. If you don’t stay here. DC. MC. % 06221/90000.m. V. and the wine list is the most impressive in town. next). veal with stuffed pumpkins. A children’s menu includes dishes such as Wiener Würstchen (small Vienna-style sausages). Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1. and courtyard-facing rooms can be noisy in the summer. Reservations required. 69117 Heidelberg. V. you can dine in the large Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) or the smaller Councilors’ Chamber. 339. % 06221/5150. Other menu offerings include staples such as pork loin with sauerkraut or roast salmon in a basil-cream sauce. If you like beer.

AE. The restaurant also has a pleasant dining room. Open: Daily 10 a. Fresh fish dishes may include zander with lemon cream. MC. Hirschgasse 3. MC. 339. % 06221/24050. oxtail. The menu often includes Rinderfilet (filet of beef) served with bone marrow and a red-wine sauce. popular restaurant formerly was a dance hall.m.m. in the beer garden. or pork medallions in a pepper-cream sauce with homemade Spätzle (a potato-based pasta). lamb with rosemary. See map p. You can eat on the balcony or. In the Hotel Hirschgasse. DC. olives. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). You can also get meat dishes: a good rib-eye steak. Mensurstube $$ –$$$ North Bank GERMAN/REGIONAL No other place in Heidelberg captures bygone days quite like this rustic and cozy spot in the ancient Hotel Hirschgasse. See map p. Main courses: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). Reservations recommended for dinner. . See map p. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. to midnight. 339. dishes from the grill (bratwursts. You can order salads. Stuttgart. Leyergasse 6. Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL On a warm summer’s day or evening. and Nuremberg Kulturbrauerei Restaurant $ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL 343 Part of a microbrewery and hotel complex (see the “Staying in Heidelberg” section. 339. Potato soup is a good starter. pork stomach. spareribs). The limited menu wisely sticks to traditional dishes made with fresh ingredients.m. % 06221/4540. and 6–10 p. this large. earlier in this chapter).m.m. Bus: 34 (from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop). in summer. where swords hang from the ceiling and you sit at 200-year-old tables. Open: Daily 11 a. or lamb shank. V. seasonal specialties (herring. For dessert. V. pork filet with mushrooms. Come here when you’re in the mood for hearty portions of traditional German food washed down by one of the homemade Scheffel’s beers. V. try the mocha and Grand Marnier parfait with fruit sauce. MC.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Hauptstrasse 97. Almost everything is best accompanied by Pils beer on tap.–11 p. or vegetarian meals. and herbs. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). roast fish). or tuna fish with tomatoes. swordfish with a pepper crust. followed by homemade noodles. Reservations recommended. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Haupstrasse). nothing is more enjoyable or romantic than dining in the museum’s garden courtyard with its splashing fountain. % 06221/90000.

and the wine list is good. or 41. Bus: 11. steeper path up Burgweg from Kornmarkt.m. Exploring Heidelberg Heidelberg is a wonderfully pleasant town to explore. Closed 2 weeks in Mar and 2 weeks in Aug. Even in its deteriorated state. or by taking a two-minute cable-car ride from Kornmarkt (see “Getting around Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). The easiest and most gradual path begins at the Klingentor. The town has few must-see sights. Ingrimstrasse 16. Hauptstrasse 115. Open: Mon–Fri noon to 1 a. this historic pubrestaurant offers a menu emphasizing regional dishes from Swabia and the Pfalz. but try to save room for warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. and for many visitors there is only one: the famous Schloss (castle) that looks down on the Altstadt. % 06221/183-336. it is one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance castles in Germany. 339. Portions are hearty and very filling. Zum Goldenen Schaf $$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL Located on Hauptstrasse. duck breast with asparagus. Sat–Sun 11 a. Service is friendly. Visiting the top attraction Heidelberg Castle Most visitors reach the huge red-sandstone Schloss on foot. % 06221/20879. you also find a shorter. 33. to midnight. 12. The menu changes often but may include lamb with a red-wine and onion purée. MC. .–1 a. Fixed-price menu: 34€–85€ ($42–$106). fresh mushrooms in cream sauce with homemade noodles.m. and one of the most famous historic monuments in Europe. AE. and wandering through the old lanes and squares of the Altstadt is as essential a part of any tour as visiting the tourist attractions. the main street in the Altstadt. See map p. Reservations required. You may want to try the Kringelbratwurst (roast sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes) or Swabian sauerbraten (marinated beef with red cabbage and noodles). Main courses: 19€–45€ ($24–$56). See map p. DC. Set amid woodlands and terraced gardens. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). Plan to spend about two hours here. Open: Wed–Mon 6 p. 339. Walking is the most rewarding approach because of the constantly changing views of the town and surrounding countryside.. 35.m. V. the enormous ruins of the castle are undeniably picturesque. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Hauptstrasse). or crayfish with fresh melon and herbflavored cream sauce. V.m.344 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Simplicissimus $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH This elegant gourmet restaurant in the Altstadt is known for its cuisine moderne.

you first come upon the Pulverturm (Gun Tower) and a terrace with views of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley.000 liters (55. to 5 p. erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his teenage wife (Elizabeth Stuart. After it was rebuilt.–5:30 p. Along the north side of the courtyard stretches the Friedrichsbau (palace of Friedrich IV). but the castle as it stands today was built in two main phases. 4€ ($5) adults.75) adults. During the first phase.50€ ($4. the castle was struck by lightning. 339. cheese. connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrichsbau (palace of Ottheinrich). The palace’s terrace offers a magnificent view of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. Stuttgart. the largest in the world. This enormous wine barrel. constructed in 1549. Entering at the main gate. To the east. is the shell of the Spiegelbau (Hall of Mirrors). vegetables. saw the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles as various prince electors of the Palatinate added to the building. % 06221/538-431. The Elizabethentor (Elizabeth’s Gate). 2€ ($2. See map p. and Nuremberg 345 The history of Heidelberg Castle An elevated fortress rose above Heidelberg as early as 1225. 3€ ($3. At the west end of the terrace.50€ ($2) children. Schlossberg. free. from 1549 to 1620.50). 1. In the southeast corner. re-creating a baroqueand rococo-era chemist’s shop with utensils and laboratory equipment from the 17th and 18th centuries.m. On market days (Wed and Sat). was built in 1751 and once held more than 208. Its restored rooms can be seen on guided tours. The second phase.m. Touring the Altstadt Marktplatz (Market Square) is the main square in the Altstadt. Pharmacy Museum.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. The Hortus Palatinus (Castle Gardens) originally were created in the 17th century. stalls of fresh flowers. in the 16th-century cellars of the castle. Tours: Frequent 1-hour guided tours of the castle in English. The museum is open daily from 10 a. sits the Grosse Fass (Great Cask). you find the remains of a grotto and a sandstone sculpture of Father Rhine.m. entrance courtyard. fortifications and living quarters were constructed.. In the 19th century. the ruins of the castle became a symbol for the German Romantics and a mecca for tourists from around the world. fish. and Great Cask.m. Admission: Castle grounds. erected from 1601 to 1607 and less damaged than other parts of the castle.50) children. daughter of the English king James I) leads to the bridge crossing the former moat. The castle was the residence of the prince electors for centuries until French troops sacked and destroyed it in the late 17th century.000 gallons) of wine. % 06221/25880). . your castle entrance ticket includes admission. Open: Daily 8 a. between about 1400 and 1544. Housed within Ottheinrich’s palace is the Apothekenmuseum (Pharmacy Museum. Audio tours: 3.

000-year-old Heidelberg Man (Homo heidelbergensis). The museum restaurant (see “Dining in Heidelberg. Graffiti and drawings.). and baked goods fill the square. a wall was erected to divide the church between Roman Catholics and Protestants. (Wed until 8 p. Give yourself about 45 minutes to browse through the various exhibits. to 6 p. The prison is open April through September. 2€ ($2. and at the south end of the square is the Neue Universität (New University).25) for students and children 17 and younger. October through March. on the east side of the square.m.346 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany meat. and a section on the history of the Palatinate. Admission is 2.–5 p.m. discovered in the vicinity nearly 100 years ago.80€ ($2. On the northeastern side is the Alte Universität (Old University). The wall has since been removed and the church restored to its original plan. Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a. You can also see an archaeological collection with a cast of the jawbone of the 600.m. stands on the south side of Marktplatz. Heidelberg University. a building from the 18th century. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3.50€ ($3. A few steps past the Old University. where from 1778 to 1914 generations of students were incarcerated in cramped cells for minor offenses.m.” earlier in this chapter) is a good choice for lunch or dinner. A five-minute walk west from the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse and south 1 block on Grabengasse brings you to Universitätsplatz (University Square). The one masterpiece on display is Tilman Riemenschneider’s 1509 wooden altarpiece showing Christ and the Apostles.75) for adults.50) for students and children 14 and younger. The highly decorated Renaissance mansion.m. the church was the burial place of the Palatinate electors. Hauptstrasse 97 (% 06221/583-402). Heidelberg’s most noteworthy museum contains a large collection of regional painting and sculpture from the 15th to the 19th centuries. you find the Studentenkarzer (Students’ Prison). The late-Gothic Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost. The hotel is named for the statue of the Ritter (knight) at the top. built around 1400. . The Rathaus (Town Hall). Housed in a baroque palace. In 1706. 1. Augustinerstrasse 2 (% 06221/543-554). to 6 p..m. is the oldest in Germany. to 4 p. For nearly 300 years. cover the walls and even the ceilings. now the Hotel Zum Ritter St. dominates the west end of Marktplatz. A Huguenot cloth merchant who emigrated from France to Heidelberg erected the building in 1592.m.m.). no phone. A two-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse from Universitätsplatz brings you to the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate). including portraits and silhouettes. is an early-18th-century building reconstructed in 1908 following a fire. open daily 8 a. founded in 1386. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.10) for adults.m. completed in 1932. Georg (see “Staying in Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter).

opera. Hauptstrasse 217 (% 06221/20977). Hauptstrasse 42 (% 06221/14480).Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Some noteworthy shops include ߜ Altstadt-Galerie Stefan. jazz. where nightly entertainment includes plays. The performing arts The main performance stage is Theater der Stadt. near Karlsplatz. opened in 1703. bathroom. cuckoo clocks. Stuttgart.m. and dance productions. UntereStrasse 18 (% 06221/28737). to midnight. late nights get rolling in clubs around Marktplatz. Revelers sit at long oak tables arranged in horseshoe fashion around a pianist. is a children’s clothing and toy store with handcrafted puppets. Living it up after dark in Heidelberg The large student population keeps Heidelberg humming after dark.50€ ($3) and up. and 5 p. For five weeks beginning in late July. ߜ Gätschenberger. Contact % 06274/58352 for tickets or visit www. ߜ Michael . A lively outdoor market is open on Wednesday and Saturday at the Marktplatz.m. Early evenings often start in the bars along Hauptstrasse. nativity scenes. and Nuremberg 347 Shopping in Heidelberg The main shopping street is the traffic-free Hauptstrasse. Plöck 71 (% 06221/893-6677). nutcrackers. As the evening progresses. Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn). dolls. and glass and crystal ornaments. Tram: 1 or 5). the Schlossfestspiele festival brings opera. The tavern is open April through October on Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a. the songs become louder and louder. is known for its array of fine linens and embroideries for bed. and theater to venues around the area. November through March hours are 5 p. sells Hummel figurines. classical music. A mug of beer costs about 2. to midnight. sells charming original engravings for as little as 10€ ($13). Hauptstrasse 177 (% 06221/24255.m.m. Bus: 41 or 42). and beer steins. and wooden blocks and figures. Hauptstrasse 215 (% 06221/619-983). including Heidelberg Castle. Historic taverns Heidelberg’s most famous and revered student tavern. and table. ߜ Black Forest Shop. to 2 p. ߜ Kinderwaren Troll. Friedrichstrasse 5 (% 06221/583-502. Meals go for 10€ to 18€ ($13–$22). offers a wide assortment of handicrafts from across Germany: music boxes.

begins in late September with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. and 5:30 p. Starting in late November. All of them take place right in the center of town on Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. the original inhabitants. but the region also is renowned for its scenic countryside. Hauptstrasse 213 (% 06221/23085).de. mulled wine.000 beer drinkers. Stuttgart has no equal in southwestern Germany.70). Meals cost 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). 115km (71 miles) southeast of Heidelberg. who were conquered by the Franks in the fifth century A.stuttgart-tourist. but most of the people who live here still call the area Swabia. and tents for some 20. wine lovers converge to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. With Stuttgart as its capital. To the north. It’s open Monday through Friday from 5:30 p. a wedge of limestone upland south of Stuttgart. The 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. For more than a century Stuttgart has been a center of German industry. with about 230 decorated stalls selling gifts. A Side Trip to Stuttgart Located in the Neckar Valley. A mug of beer goes for 2.D. to midnight. The name comes from Suevi. As a cultural center. The building dates from 1634. Stuttgart plays host to a lively Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt). (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter. visit the city’s Web site at www. nestled in gently rolling hills with woods and vineyards reaching right down into the city. .m. the beer festival features food. yet it remains surprisingly verdant. one of the oldest and largest in Europe.m. For dates and more information.348 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Swabia: Stuttgart’s homeland Swabia (Schwaben in German) is the name for a medieval duchy now contained within the federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southwestern Germany. Swabia has been a leader of German industry for decades.95€ ($3. The smaller Neckar River flows past Heidelberg and Stuttgart through a vineyard-covered valley. the Schwäbische Wald (Swabian Forest) stretches to the Schwäbische Alb. Saturday and Sunday from noon to 2:30 p. Forests sweep south to the Bodensee. also part of Swabia. and west to the Danube River. filled with photographs and memorabilia. Next door is Zum Sepp’l.m. rides. Stuttgart makes for a great daytrip from Heidelberg. A pianist performs nightly. At the Stuttgart Wine Festival in late August. to midnight.) A visit to Stuttgart can be even more enjoyable when you time your trip to coincide with one of the city’s major festivals. Dating back to 1818. and cinnamon waffles. Stuttgart is the capital of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. Visitors come from across the region to enjoy the city’s museums and performing arts.

Heinemann Platz Kleiner Schlossplatz K ien ans tra ass sse Theatersee -Str 3 5 AKADEMIEGARTEN ena Schlossplatz Eug stra ensse stra uer Ulr ich sse sse Urb 8 9 hee Ca st ra ss e r te B Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Stuttgart Munich ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg 7 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart 6 Mercedes-Benz Museum 9 Neues Schloss 3 Staatsgalerie 2 Weissenhofsiedlung 1 Wilhelma 8 DINING Alte Kanzlei 5 Café Königsbau 4 Church Information Post Office i Al To Fernsehturm ex an de rst ra sse Hohenheimer Strasse rh Ebe ar ass e Br str enn as erse sen str s G ai bu rg str e lum ns tra sse ss Charlottenplatz a e tras lzs nig Ki lli che Bo str Th o str uret ass e Lau ass SCHLOSSGARTEN 2 e Staatstheater se Ne stra ckarsse r tle Sat Heg elst sse Ca gs gs ber nn sta a str tras se tte sse rstr 1 Hauptbahnhof ass eg e e rd ns e w tra r Pano am as e ss t ra 0 1/8 mile 125 meters ss Jäg ers ss tra e 0 N SCHLOSSGARTEN e st ra en ss e Moserstrasse We ima rstr ass So ph ien str as se . ra e sse r Rotebühlplatz e nste gu e Au trass s ar kt Ro Olg Marktplatz Urb ast r. Stuttgart.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. ss e ras se an- tra rot Karlsplatz nst stra Fr itz Schillerplatz 7 Kon ns es tra 4 sse tra sse 6 -Ad Berliner Liederhalle Platz trasse asse tr sss Sch lo ne rs ssStr Tüb Kr as o i n s np Stra ger e rin sse zst Kö ras nig se str ass Hir e sch str a sse St ei ns tra Ha ss up e tS ta ds t tr a Le ss o St e str nha ra as rd ss se e -E lsa s-S Do Th M Ho Es lzs St sling tr. and Nuremberg 349 Stuttgart Di He Se am es an tra te ss ers e sse tra rass Krie i Sch lag ille tenstra ten Hegelplatz rstr sch STADTGARTEN ngs tra sse ass e Holzgar Kö e S rad Le u ch Bü ch se eo d St or-H ra e s lw u er.

an old-fashioned Konditorei (pastry shop) located in the colonnade of the Königsbau next to the new art museum. cake. (Nov–Apr 1–6 p. Stuttgart Airport (% 0711/948-3388). call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861.m..m. The cost is 17€ ($21) per person. trip time from Heidelberg is only 40 minutes. and Visa.m.bahn. A one-day ticket (Einzel Tageskarte) costs 5.m.m.350 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting to Stuttgart By train. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter. The restaurant is open daily from 11 a.). or you can sit out on the terrace and have an ice cream. to 11 p. Saturdays.m.m. and Sundays at 1:30 p.stuttgart-tourist. www. From the airport’s Terminal 1. to 8 p.m.m. Stuttgart has a comprehensive S-Bahn system that links up with the U-Bahn (subway). Saturday 9 a. and Sunday 11 a. Alte Kanzlei. to 6 p. For information. The restaurant has a cafe section where you can get breakfast and lighter meals. serves as a major gateway to southern Germany. Königstrasse 28 (% 0711/290-787).. Fares are based on zones. to 7 p. or other fillings) and Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef topped with onions). . and accepts American Express. Schillerplatz 5A (% 0711/29-44-57.m. from April through October. to 6 p. The cafe is open Monday through Friday 9 a. www.m. Main courses go for 9€ to 16€ ($11–$20). and Sunday 11 a. a one-way ticket costs to 8 p. Ninety-minute city walking tours (in German only) are offered daily from April through October at 11 a. for 7€ ($8. Saturday 9 a. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz).m. Königstrasse 1A (% 0711/222-80. is open Monday through Friday 9 a. Coffee. Exploring Stuttgart From the train station.vvs.m. Access by car is via the A8 Autobahn east and west or the A81 north and south. you can reach all the major attractions in the Altstadt on foot. For train schedules and information. Dining in Stuttgart Occupying a section of the Altes Schloss (Old Castle). you can take the S2 or S3 S-Bahn directly to the main train station in central Stuttgart. Diners Club. specializes in traditional Swabian dishes such as Maultaschen (pasta stuffed with ham. to 6 p. spinach.10€ ($6.75).m. and in March on Fridays. MasterCard.80€ ($2.) The Mercedes Museum and some other sights require the use of public transportation or a taxi.50) for two zones. Finding information and taking a tour Located opposite the main train station. www. egg.m.m. call the city’s transportation authority VVS (% 0711/66060. The tourist office offers a 21⁄2-hour guided sightseeing bus tour (in German and English) daily at 1 p. Purchase tickets from the automated machines in U-Bahn stations or from the bus driver.. and light meals are served at Café Königsbau. located 13km (8 miles) south of the city.. the I-Punkt tourist information office.25) for one

Schozacher Str. Berliner Platz Gerlingen Siedlung Schlotterbeckstr. Bihlplatz Südheimer Platz Österfeld Waldeck Kaltental Engelbold str. Siegelstr. Wangener-/Landhausstr. Schwabstraße Dobelstr. Neckartor Schlossplatz Staatsgalerie Gerlingen Hölderlinplatz U6 2 Schloss-Johannesstr. S4 S5 S6 Botnang Universität Hedelfingen U9 U13 Ruhbank 15 U14 Eugensplatz Heidehofstr. Maybachstr. Gaisberg Brendle Im Degen Inselstr. Wangen Marztplatz Kodak Obertürkheim Mettingen Esslingen Obresslingen Zell Altbach Lindpaintnerstr. U7 Mainsheim der Stadt Pragfriedhof Eckhartsaldenweg Wolfbusch Bergheimer Hof Türlenstraße S6 Salamanderweg Rosenberg-/Seidenstr. Geroksruhe Steile Plochingen S1 U4 U9 Heslach Vogelrain Rathaus Österreichischer Platz Marienplatz Schreiberstr. Bubenbad Payerstr. Stammheim Kornwestheim Zuffenhausen Kelterplatz Stammheim Rathaus Hohensteinstr. Stuttgart. Zuffenhausen Pragsattel Zahn-Nopper-Str. Esslinger Str. Silberwald Sillenbuch Schemppstr. Schwabenlandhalle Schorndorf Uff-Kirchhof Benningen Freiberg U5 U14 Neckargröningen Remseck S5 Tamm Freiberg (N) Wlhelmsplatz Bad Cannstatt Stöckach Felbach Lutherkirche U1 Blick Eszet Suttnerstr. Eltinger Str. Stafflenbergstr. Friedrichswahl Heutingsheimer Str. Salzwiessenstr. Ludwigsburg 15 Fürfelder Str.Marbach (N) S4 Bietigheim Brückenstr. Wimpfener Str. Beethovenstr. Vaihinger Str. Russische Kirche Giebel Keplerstr. Hauptbahnhof Berliner Platz Untertürkheim U4 Stadtmitte Charlottenplatz Olgaeck Schwab-/Bebelstr. Sonnenberg Riedsee Waldau Wasenstr. Backnang Mühle Hornbach S3 Maubach Mühlhausen Auwissen Nellmersbach Hofen Max-Eyth-See Winneden Wagrainäcker Schwalkheim Elbestraße Neustadt-Hohenacker Waiblingen Freibergstr. and Nuremberg Goldberg Böblingen Hulb Oberaichen Leinfelden Frank Nellingen Ostfildern U7 U8 Unteraichen Sigmaringer Str. Akadamie Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Breitwiesen Falkerstr. Rommelshausen Münster Rathaus Fellbach Stetten-Beinstein Münster Viadukt Sommerain Kraftwerk Münster Endersbach Beutelsbach 2 Obere Ziegelei Mühlsteg Grunbach Gnessener Str. Rosensteinbrücke Geradstetten Nürnberger Str. Vogelsang Herderplatz Feuersee Mercedesstr. Landesversicherungsanstalt Asperg Favoritepark Tapachstr. Wallgraben Rohrer Weg Möhringen Freibad Möhringen Bf U5 U6 U8 Ruit Zinsholz Parksiedlung Scharnhauser Park Kreuzbrunnen Techn. Vaihingen Schillerplatz U1 U3 U6 Vaihingen SSB-Zentum Rohr Jurastr. Borsigstr. Kirchtalstr. Zuffenhausen Rathaus Korntaler Str. Millöckerstr. Heumaden S-Bahn S1 S2 S3 U-Bahn S4 S5 S6 Vaihingen Viadukt Fauststr. Bopser Weinsteige Degerloch Degerloch Albstr. Killesberg Löwen-Markt Renningen Milchhof Weil Messe Rastatter Str. Eckhardt Neuwirtshaus Korntal Fortuna Löwentor Weilimdorf Wilhelm-Geiger-Platz Ditzingen Feuerbach Krankenhaus Höfingen Sportpark Feuerbach Leonberg Löwentorbrücke Feuerbach Pfostenwäldle Rutesheim Landauer Str. Peregrinastr. Salzäcker Landhaus Ehningen Gärtringen Nufringen Leinfelden U5 Echterdingen Pleiningen U3 S1 Herrenberg Flughafen Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn 351 S3 Filderstadt S2 U1 2 U3 U4 U5 U6 U7 U8 U9 U13 U14 15 . S2 Badstr. Bockelstr. Mineralbäder Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion Metzstraße Karl-Olga Krankenhaus Bergfriedhof Raitelsberg Ostendplatz Schlachthof Tal-/Landhausstr. Friedrich-List-Heim Kursaal Winterbach Beskidenstr. Arndt-/Spittastr. Daimlerplatz Wilhelma Weiler Augsburger Platz Höhenstr. Mittnachstr. Pleininger Str.

the paintings by Otto Dix are particularly compelling (the museum has the most important Otto Dix collection in the world). Hans Memlings’s Bathsheba at her Bath.). 2€ ($2.m. In this section.m. Admission is 3€ ($3. with works of the German expressionists Ernst Kirchner. The new museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. Some famous examples of European art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries also are exhibited. 4€ ($5. Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 30–32 (% 0711/470-400.and 20th-century collection.352 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg (Old Castle and State Museum of Württemberg). U-Bahn: Staatsgalerie). You’ll see prehistoric stone sculptures. The top floor. Stuttgart-Cannstatt (% 0711/172-2578). and Rembrandt’s St. (Wed until 8 p.and 20th-century works by artists from southern Germany. take S-Bahn line S1 to Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion.25) for students. Untertürkheim Tor 1 (about a 10minute walk). charges 8€ ($10) for adults. the museum is a filigree glass cube surrounding a rough-hewn limestone inner core. open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. Paul in Prison.25) for adults. Mercedesstrasse 37. You can see the highlights in an hour or so. including works by Modigliani. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). Kleiner Schlossplatz 1 (% 0711/216-2188.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. To reach it.D.” designed by the British architect James Stirling and completed in 1984. first built as a moated castle in the 14th century and later redone in Renaissance style. exhibits works spanning some 550 years. is considered an icon of postmodern architecture.25) for students. a cafe open to the public. Rebuilt after WWII. to 5 p. Art lovers will .75) for adults. is one of Stuttgart’s oldest standing structures. which opened in spring 2005. The “New State Gallery. you find the 19th. The Neue Staatsgalerie (State Art Gallery). honors the invention of the motorcar by Carl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler.50) for students. the city’s finest art museum. A must for anyone who has an interest in cars — vintage or otherwise — the Mercedes-Benz Museum. Nearly 75 historical vehicles are shown. provides a fabulous panoramic view of Stuttgart and its surrounding hills. you’ll enjoy every minute (free audio guides are available in English). and Monet.. and treasures found in the tomb of a Celtic prince (circa A. then follow signs to DaimlerChrysler Werk. The museum moved to a new building in 2006.m. such as Paul Klee and Lyonel Feininger.m. to 5 p. Picasso. admission is 5€ ($6.m. Schillerplatz 6 (% 0711/279-3400. Give yourself at least an hour here. and Max Beckmann. including the first motorcycle (built in 1885) and the first Mercedes (1902). U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). a large collection of Swabian sculptures. Highlights include Giovanni Bellini’s The Mourning of Christ. It’s worth a trip to Stuttgart just to see the Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (Stuttgart Art Museum). 1€ ($1. in addition to representatives of the Bauhaus school and Blue Rider group. Designed by Berlin architects Hascher and Jehle. the Württemberg crown jewels (in the royal vault). The new gallery houses the city’s collection of 19th. to 6 p. 530). Ernst Barlach. the castle now houses a state museum tracing the art and culture of Swabia and Württemberg from the Stone Age to the present.m.The museum.

free on Wednesday. want to give themselves a couple of hours here.40€ ($6. opera. Bad-Cannstatt (% 0711/54020).m. Schloss-Strasse (% 0711/2167110. Neckartalstrasse.50€ ($5.75) children younger than 17. The park was laid out in 1848 and contains a collection of historical buildings in the Moorish style. Am Weissenhof 30 (% 0711/257-1434. Le Corbusier (Rathenaustrasse 1–3).de). Classical and other concerts are given in the Liederhalle. available at newsstands.weissenhofgalerie. 5.m. lists all the happenings around Stuttgart.). free for children 13 and younger. and Sunday noon to 5 p. Listings of the various cultural events and tickets are available from the tourist office (see “Finding information and taking a tour. Many of the existing houses represent the functional style that was being promoted by the Bauhaus school of art and design. Tickets for all concerts are on sale at the tourist information office. take U-Bahn line 14 to the Wilhelma stop.” earlier in this section on Stuttgart). walking tours are available on Saturdays at 11 a.000 animals and plants from around the world. to 5 p.stadtrund fahrt-stuttgart. and Hans Scharoun (Hölzweg 1).60) for adults. (Thurs until 9 p. the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday 2 to 6 p.. Stuttgart is so close (only 40 minutes by train) that you may want to consider spending an evening there at the ballet. a housing estate built for a building exhibition in 1927. home to the Stuttgarter Philharmoniker and the Radio Symphony U-Bahn: Liederhalle/Berlinerplatz).). and Nuremberg 353 Classics of modernist architecture Architecture buffs will want to pay a visit to Weissenhofsiedlung (Weissenhof Estate). to 6 p. Stuttgart. or concert hall. www. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). For a private architectural tour by an English-speaking city guide/taxi driver. Walking through the estate you see houses created by architects such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (Am Weissenhof 14–29).m.m. Stuttgart performing arts Even if you’re staying in Heidelberg. The magazine Lift. Staatstheater (State Theater). (Nov–Feb until 4 p. Displays in the small Architektur-Galerie. provide information about the project and the architects involved. is the largest zoo and botanical garden in Europe. call Anselm Vogt-Moykopf at % 0172/740-1138 (www. The animal houses and greenhouses are open year-round from 8:15 a. Admission is 4. is home to the highly regarded Stuttgart Ballet and the Staatsoper (State Opera).m.m. admission is 11€ ($13) adults.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. To reach the Weissenhof Estate. Oberer Schlossgarten (% 0711/ 20-20-90.m. Home to more than 9. Wilhelma.m. take a taxi or the U-Bahn line 7 to the Killesberg-Messe stop and walk northeast around the Messe into the residential neighborhood. To get there. . The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.

To Hitler.) This strikingly attractive and lively city has about half a million residents. but few have been reborn with the kind of evocative grace and charm of Nuremberg. Dorotheenstrasse 4 (U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). the city grew from a fortress and military base in eastern Franconia (a medieval duchy of south-central Germany) to a virtually self-governing Free Imperial City (Freie Reichsstadt). take note: Metzingen. sports equipment. including some of the finest Gothic and Renaissance churches in Germany. head to the Markthalle (Market Hall). Serious shoppers. and more. were restored or reconstructed in the Altstadt. Nearly every German city has a restored Altstadt. But for a special shopping experience. the city’s architecture and previous role in the Holy Roman Empire represented the quintessence of Germany. a small town 35km (21 miles) south of Stuttgart and easily accessible by train. churches. Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth Nuremberg (or Nürnberg in German) is located in Bavaria. During the 15th and 16th centuries. or meeting with the princes of the empire. an Art Nouveau building dating from 1914 and full of stalls selling local and foreign delicacies. After the war. made it one of the wealthiest and most important cities in medieval Germany. many of Nuremberg’s most important buildings. In 300 years. 148km (92 miles) northwest of Munich. with the exceptions of Dresden and Berlin. a cultural flowering made Nuremberg the center of the German Renaissance. convened by the International Military Tribunal. As a result. the historic center. you find a selection of international designer outlets selling clothing. mark on German history. tableware. in Nuremberg. suffered such wartime devastation. and its location at the crossroads of major trade routes. In the postwar years. is the home of Germany’s best and most numerous factory-outlet stores. each newly elected emperor of the Holy Roman Empire had to convene his first Reichstag. the Nazi war-crimes trials were held here. no other German city. historic buildings. Spending a day or more exploring its streets. right outside the main train station. dates back to about 1050. Nuremberg made its second.354 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Stuttgart You’ll find department stores and boutiques lining Königstrasse. But the city fell into decline until. and museums definitely is worth it. and most infamous. From 1356 onward.” as the city originally was known. (See the “Nuremberg” map in this chapter. “Nourenberc. Hitler made Nuremberg the Nazi Party’s permanent convention and rally site. After he seized power in 1933. under Hitler. The city’s role as capital of the empire. . On and around Kanalstrasse. shoes.

8 Karlstrasse i 11 12 13 Haupt-14 markt 21 Kö n ig LORENZ Kornmarkt 18 i Ma TAFELHOF ATTRACTIONS Schwurgerichtssaal 600 1 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus 3 Spielzeugmuseum 8 Altes Rathaus 13 St. 9 10 7 Obstmarkt Burgs s se Ha b gr a en Tetze lga sse de trasse B nis urgschmiets trasse str ass e ST. from Munich. l e rass Praterstrasse Beckschlage Wes Neue G. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. and Nuremberg 355 Nuremberg St. t ers at rg. Stuttgart. a ss to rg ra ras se hst eic Bl Gr il Sp itt ler A L T S T A D T 17 sse Brunnengasse Ma ri en to r 19 abe w ud Färbe Am Plärrer Ludwigstor t up ss Hastra sto e rgr tra igsJacobplatz L Spittlertor rstra Fürther Tor sse Fraue ngass e Ka b gas tharin gr a se enBlu Lor me enz nst er S ras tra se sse en rge be len be n Pegnitz Adlerstrasse Lauf r e rto Str 16 15 rgra be n chhe rrnstr asse e n - Lessingstrasse aben asse San dstr Hauptbahnhof Kö Frauentorgr nig ACCOMMODATIONS Burghotel Nürnberg 6 Dürer-Hotel 4 Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg 20 Romantik Hotel am Jusephsplatz 17 DINING Bratwurst-Häusle 12 Essigbrätlein 7 Goldenes Posthorn 10 Heilig-Geist-Spital 16 As you wander through the streets of this ancient capital of the Holy Roman Empire. www. 1 hour 40 minutes. L a uf e r g. from 19 Dokumentationszentrum Hamburg Reichsparteitagsgelände 21 St. you find reminders of Nuremberg’s brightest period. less than 5 hours. Getting there You can easily reach Nuremberg by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe. Travel time from Frankfurt is about 2 hours. Johannis Friedhof Li n Joh an ng a 1 Pr Kleinweidenhle mühle Deuts Neutor ttorg rabe n Pegn iese itz l er w 4 5 6 AlbrechtDürer-Platz Theresiens.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. JOHANNIS 2 3 dSchil e gass Maxtor Lange G asse Hirschel gasse I n . For information and schedules.-SebaldusBerlin Kirche 9 Frauenkirche 15 GERMANY Germanisches Nationalmuseum 18 Frankfurt Church Information i Hauptmarkt 14 Nuremberg Railway Kaiserburg 2 Munich Schöner Brunnen 11 s tr rien se as stra sse 20 B a h n h o f s t r a ss e 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters N . The city’s Hauptbahnhof is within walking distance of all the major attractions.

the city’s main market square. www. Getting around Nuremberg Nuremberg’s Altstadt is almost entirely closed to traffic. children younger than 14 free. Cost is 5€ ($6. Roughly oval in shape. The Hauptbahnhof lies on the southern perimeter of the Altstadt. one of the most successfully restored historic city centers in Germany. An additional branch at Hauptmarkt 18 (% 0911/231-5555) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. parts of which still remain and have rampart walks and gateway towers. and Sunday (May–Sept only) from 10 a. You find historic sights both north and south of the river.m.m. head southeast along the A3 Autobahn.m. take the A9 Autobahn south. The tour includes a visit to the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle).m. crowning the northern periphery is the Kaiserburg.airportnuernberg. and from Berlin.tourismus. to 1 p.m. passing all the major sights on a 40-minute tour with commentary in German (English translations available). Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. plus admission to the castle. from major German and European cities. picturesque Pegnitz River bisects the Altstadt.25) for From April through October and on weekends in November and March. In 30 minutes.m. opposite the train station at Königstrasse 93 (% 0911/233-6132.50) for children. and 2 to 4 p. The train departs from the fountain in the Hauptmarkt in front of the tourist office several times a day from 10:30 a.356 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For those traveling by plane. connections are available to Nuremberg’s small airport.m. www. By car from Munich. from the tourist information office at the Hauptmarkt.m. The small. The cost is 8€ ($10) adults. 6km (4 miles) north of the city center. Flughafen Nürnberg (% 0911/93700. to 4 p. 2€ ($2. Orienting yourself Nearly all that is of interest to the visitor is found in Nuremberg’s is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. To the north lies the Hauptmarkt. A guided 21⁄2-hour walking tour of the city center in English departs daily (May–Oct and Nov 30–Jan 6) at 1 p. Buy your tickets from the tourist information office or from the guide. the entire Altstadt lies within a double wall of medieval fortifications. take the A9 Autobahn north.nuernberg. the old imperial castle. from Frankfurt. to 6 p. you can walk . to 7 p. all its sights are easily accessible on foot. Although the Altstadt is larger than the historic centers in many other German cities. a small sightseeing train operated by Nürnberger Altstadtrundfahrten (% 0911/421-919) runs through the Altstadt.

Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg $$$$ Altstadt At one time. Neutormauer 32. solid comfort in a great Altstadt location for a reasonable price. call % 0911/19410. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse to Lammsgasse). tickets purchased on Saturday also are good all day Sunday. Nuremberg’s transportation system consists of a U-Bahn (subway). 355. V. MC. Rates: 135€–180€ ($169–$225) double. The ambience throughout is modern and pleasant. Staying in Nuremberg See Chapter 22 for a listing of the charming Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz ($–$$$). www. See map p. Stuttgart. DC. V. trams. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk southwest along the city wall). Bedrooms are compact and nicely furnished. 355. special weekend and summer rates. Fax: 0911/ 23-88-91-00. and close to all the major sightseeing attractions in the Altstadt. Rates include continental breakfast. Dürer-Hotel $$ –$$$ Altstadt The 107-room Dürer stands beside the birthplace of its namesake. in a pretty room off the lobby.altstadthotels. You can enjoy your breakfast. The functional bathrooms are tiled and come with shower units. 90403 Nürnberg.altstadthotels.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Mediumsized rooms done in pastel colors open onto the street or a back garden. AE. the only meal served. Lammsgasse 3. For more information. next to Albrecht Dürer’s house (see the “Exploring Nuremberg” section. MC. 46-room hotel provides good. The easiest way to use the system is to buy a TagesTicket (day ticket) for 3. alongside the castle wall. Walking in the Altstadt is easier than using public you could find “grand” hotels like this all across Europe. Fax: 0911/ 2146-65555. call the city’s transportation authority. % 0911/214-6650. Rates include buffet breakfast. The smallish tiled baths have showers (some have tub-shower combinations). Buy your tickets from the machines in the U-Bahn stations. Burghotel Nürnberg $ –$$$ Altstadt This reliable. 90403 Nürnberg. www. They were always close to train stations (because that was how most people . Rates: 98€–175€ ($122–$187) See map p. and Nuremberg 357 from the Hauptbahnhof to the Kaiserburg through the heart of the city’s medieval core and past most of the historic monuments. later in this chapter). DC.50). For a taxi.60€ ($4. VGN (% 0911/270-750). AE. Fares are based on zones. The hotel is below the castle walls in one of the most historic parts of the old city. and buses. % 0911/23-88-90.

Note: Those big. the open grill in the rustic. Come to sample original Nürnberger Rostbratwurst (6. marble-clad bathrooms. Essigbrätlein $$$$ FRANCONIAN/CONTINENTAL The city’s most ancient restaurant.m. The guest rooms.m.S. See map p. Dining in Nuremberg Nuremberg is in a region called Franconia. 8. Seasonal game and fish dishes also are staples in restaurants serving Franconian fare. originally was a meeting place for wine merchants.–10:30 p. Rates: 250€–390€ ($312–$487) double. you can dine on a leafy outdoor terrace. You can also get them to go (zum mitnehmen). Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. or 0911/23220. Children under 12 stay free in their parents’ room and baby-sitting can be arranged. . each one you eat goes on your bill and costs 5. delicious-looking pretzels (Brezeln) on your table are not free. The city is famous for its finger-size Rostbratwurst made of pork and various spices and then broiled on a charcoal grill. The hungry consumer shouts back the number of bratwursts he wants. or 12 pieces). MC. dating from 1550. have roomy. 90402 Nürnberg. 355. this grand hotel escaped destruction in World War II and consequently still retains much of its unique Art Nouveau atmosphere and detailing. V. the largest in Nuremberg. zwei. in summer. MC. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is directly across the street from the train station). The locals consider fewer than six bratwursts a snack.” (one.50–$13). 10. with many nouvelle recipes. people typically have up to 14 for lunch. Main courses: 6€–11€ ($7. Your bratwursts may come with sauerkraut or rye bread with very hot mustard. Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is inventive and refreshing. located opposite the Rathaus and close to the church of St. three . Rathausplatz 1. Bahnhofstrasse 1–3. V.80€ ($ 7). AE. www. served on pewter plates. % 800/543-4300 in the U. Built before World War I. Sebald. wood-paneled dining room warms you.358 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany traveled). See map p. AE.) and so on. a beer brewed locally since 1468. Bratwurst-Häusle $ FRANCONIAN The Bratwurst Häusle is the most famous bratwurst house in the city. % 0911/227-695. “Eins. The traditional specialty is roast loin of beef marinated in vinegar (what the name of the . known for its hearty and relatively uncomplicated cuisine. In winter. and they were always the largest and most glamorous places to stay. DC. drei . . . You may hear the sausage seller in an open booth on the street shouting. 355. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (then a 5minute walk north on Königsttrasse to Rathausplatz). A good beer to go with your wursts is Lederer Pils. Fax: 0911/23-22-444. . and Canada. Look for an ever-changing menu based on seasonal availability.lemeridien.

the restaurant’s kitchen still features such old-fashioned but satisfying Franconian dishes as quail stuffed with gooseliver and nuts. % 0911/221-761. 355. Kettensteg is a nice place to relax and have a good time. 355. % 0911/225-131. spans the Pegnitz River and is an atmospheric spot to dine. and wurst with a mixture of onions and vinegar. DC. MC. . See map p. V. Wiener Schnitzel with french fries. bar. hearty and filling. talking and drinking and eating under the trees. Carp is a specialty. Fixed-price meals: 38€–42€ ($47–$52) lunch. You’ll want to dress up a bit if you’re going to dine here. MC. Fixed-price meals: 17€ ($21) lunch. 20€–42€ ($25–$52) dinner. Bus: 46 or 47 to Spitalgasse. Spitalgasse 16. Among its mementos is a drinking glass reputedly used by Albrecht Dürer. when the tables fill up fast and everyone stays late. In season.m. to midnight. you can order leg of venison with noodles and berries. 65€–79€ ($81–$99) dinner. and 6–11:30 p. Main courses: 20€–28€ ($25–$35). AE. Goldenes Posthorn $$ –$$$ FRANCONIAN No other restaurant in Nuremberg can match the antique atmosphere of the Goldenes Posthorn. Bus: 36 to Burgstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Glöckleingasse). and so are pork knuckle and sauerbraten. Reservations required. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Winklerstrasse to Weinmarkt). Main courses: 7€–20€ ($8. fresh carp (in winter). Although the atmosphere has become more casual and touristy in recent years.m. venison in red wine with plums. The restaurant has a fine wine list.m. Closed Jan 1–15 and 2 weeks in Aug (dates vary). See map p. such as curried chicken on rice. V. in business for 650 years. Open: Daily 11 a. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. Vegetarians can choose from vegetable lasagna or various salads. DC. See map p. Glöckleingasse 2. which claims to be in the oldest house in Germany. Weinmarkt 3. Stuttgart. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 1:30 p. including vintages that date back to 1889. 355. and beer garden beside the river in a romantic corner of the Altstadt is a real scene on warm evenings. with more than 100 vintages. % 0911/225-153. The wine list is abundant and excellent. The main dishes are typical Franconian fare. Main courses: 10€–14€ ($13–$17). DC. AE. and Nuremberg 359 restaurant means in German). The menu is limited to just a few dishes.75–$25). Heilig-Geist-Spital $ FRANCONIAN Nuremberg’s largest historic wine house.m. V. Kettensteg $ FRANCONIAN/INTERNATIONAL This restaurant.m. and bratwursts.. AE.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. MC. Tues–Sat 7–9:30 p. Reservations recommended.

10).).–11 p.m. 355. Admission: 5€ ($6. original etchings and woodcuts. lived in this house from 1509 to 1528. Exhibits inside the house are devoted to Dürer’s life and works. Kartäusergasse 1. Everyday life in Germany through the ages is documented with domestic furnishings.m. Admission: 5€ ($6. The collection covers the entire spectrum of German craftsmanship and fine arts from their beginnings to the present day. Typical of the well-to-do burghers’ houses of the 15th century. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Albrecht Dürer House) Albrecht Dürer.10) students and children ages 6 through 15. Tours: Guided tours in English Sat 2 p. and you need to give yourself at least two hours to see it. Most of the historic core is for pedestrians only.50€ ($3. U-Bahn: Opernhaus (then a 3minute walk north on Kartäusergasse). 500 to 750). This is an exhaustive and exhausting place. Tues–Sun 10 a.m. The world’s first globe. Main courses: 8€–13€ ($10–$16).m. is on display.m.m. Open: Mon (July–Sept only) 10 a. so you need to choose your areas of interest and consult the galleries’ map frequently.–5 p. See map p. % 0911/221-081. tours 2.). folk objects.360 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Maxplatz 35.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Bus: 36 to Maxplatz. winter daily 11 a.50€ ($3.m.–2:30 p. Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum) Germany’s largest and most important museum of German art and culture is the one must-see museum in Nuremberg.D. nearly all of which are found in the Altstadt.–5 p.25) adults. Furnishings in many of the rooms are important historical pieces. 355.m.25) adults. historic musical instruments.m. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 3-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse). No credit cards. Built in 1420.m. as is a self-portrait by Rembrandt. Open: Summer daily 11 a. 2. a sculptor and woodcarver known for his “nervous” angular forms and realism. it’s the only completely preserved Gothic house left in Nuremberg. one of the great German artists of the Renaissance. It’s a huge place and not laid out in an intuitive way. created by Martin Behaim. Exploring Nuremberg You need at least one full day to explore the main attractions of Nuremberg. so walking is a pleasure. ..m. % 0911/13310. (Wed until 9 p. and copies of Dürer’s paintings. (Thurs until 8 p. The extensive painting and sculpture sections include works by Renaissance greats Albrecht Dürer and Veit Stoss. Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39. and the healing arts. % 0911/231-2568. the structure has a first floor of sandstone surmounted by two half-timbered stories and a gabled roof. See map p. dollhouses. The prehistoric and early historical sections contain finds from the Stone Age and from the burial sites of the Merovingians (a Frankish dynasty ruling from about A. weapons. and 6–11:30 p..m.–6 p. 4€ ($4) children and students.m.

m. is Nuremberg’s geographic and symbolic heart. Oct–Mar daily 10 a.) pyramid-shaped stone fountain from 1396. has been in ruins since a fire destroyed it in 1420. now a youth hostel. The new buildings include the Kaiserstallung (Emperor’s Stables). Admission: 5€ ($6. the Hauptmarkt is the most colorful square in the city.m. open Mon–Sat 9 a. With their heavy oak beams and painted ceilings. Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) Nuremberg is a major toy center.–6 p. the 11th-century Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower). Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) The Kaiserburg. Burgstrasse. the great Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) on the ground floor and the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) on the second floor look much as they did when King Frederick III rebuilt them in the 15th century. The council of Nuremberg erected another set of buildings in the 14th and 15th centuries when its responsibilities expanded to include the protection of the emperor. Open: Apr–Sept daily 9 a. The rooms are decorated with period Gothic furnishings. % 0911/2446590. Most of the buildings were constructed during the 12th century. and paintings. dates from 1340. was the official residence of the German kings and emperors from 1050 to 1571.and machinemade — fill all three floors of this museum. The Kaiserburg Museum (% 0911/2009540) contains antique weaponry. In the northwest corner stands the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain). Some date from medieval . Filled with stalls selling fresh flowers.m.). just north of the Pegnitz River at the northern end of Königstrasse. armor. and the castle gardens. fruits.25) adults. The oldest part of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). an 18m-high (60-ft. the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well). looming above the city from its hilltop at the northern edge of the Altstadt. Sun 12:30–6 p. % 0911/206-560. The 14th-century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady. has on its facade a gilded 16th-century mechanical clock called the Männleinlaufen (a hard-to-translate word meaning “little men running”). 4€ ($5) students. completed in 1622.– 4 p. a later section. Allot at least an hour to explore the various nooks and crannies of the castle. Stuttgart.–6 p. marks the architectural transition from Renaissance to baroque style.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 10-minute walk north following signs). and explains the history of the castle..m. See map p. Watchmen and guards used the ramparts with their parapet walks and secret passages to protect the kings and emperors. and Nuremberg Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square) 361 The cobblestoned Hauptmarkt.. on Rathausplatz just off the market square. free for children 16 and younger.m. and toys — both hand.m. who lived in the inner core of the castle complex. The oldest portion. every day at noon.m. the massive bastions of the fortress. figures of the seven electors appear and pay homage to Emperor Karl IV. and vegetables. on the eastern edge of the square. 355. A fine view of the roofs and towers of Nuremberg can be seen from its terraces.

Exhibits include a large collection of dolls and old dollhouses. hangs over the entrance to the choir. the 5€ ($6. to 6 p. Karlstrasse 13–15.. Inside. The church contains two more remarkable works: The Angelic Salutation (1519). and. In November 2001. visit the Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (International Military Tribunal).50€ ($3). times. 2.25) adults. 21 of the surviving leaders of the Third Reich stood trial in November 1945 for crimes against humanity. See map p. % 0911/231-3164. 55.m. and a magnificent stained-glass rosette window glows above the organ at the west end. A glass corridor now pierces the upper level of Speer’s Congress Hall.–5 p. U-Bahn: Bärenschanze).. optical toys (such as peep shows.m.-Lorenz-Kirche (Church of St. the huge Congress Hall designed by Hitler’s architect. or do crafts in a supervised playroom.m. St. Kids can play with toys. The center is open Monday through Friday 9 a.50€ ($3. or 65 to the Docu-Zentrum stop. . where the Nuremberg Trials took place.362 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Judgment at Nuremberg If you’re interested in a famous landmark of WWII.-Lorenze-Kirche was begun in 1270 and took more than 200 years to complete. The St. Afterward. Fürther Strasse 110 (% 0911/231-5421. I strongly recommend a visit here because it provides a chronological overview of the rise of Nazism and its subsequent horrors in a compelling format. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Augustinerstrasse and north on Karlstrasse). Objects on the top floor illustrate the history of toys since 1945. Albert Speer. Sat–Sun 10 a. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. to 6 p. reopened as the new Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds). take Tram 6 or 9 or Bus 36. which is larger than the Colosseum in Rome. You don’t have to be a kid.m.–6 p. The corridor houses an exhibition that chronicles the ruthless misuse of power under National Socialism. and model railways and other miniature vehicles. from Adam and Eve through the Last Judgment. Admission is 2.m.. carved in linden wood by Veit Stoss. ten were hanged. Admission: 5€ ($6. a specially remodeled courtroom. The building still serves as a courthouse.10) students and children. Bayernstrasse 110 (% 0911/ 231-5666). a stone tabernacle by Adam Krafft (1496) presents likenesses of the sculptor and two apprentices. though.25) admission includes an audio guide. to the left of the altar. Lawrence) The largest and most beautiful Gothic church in Nuremberg rises above Lorenzerplatz. To reach the center.m. including Barbie dolls and LEGO blocks. 355.m.m. Give yourself at least an hour. to enjoy this acclaimed museum. and stereoscopes). in room 600. Saturday and Sunday 10 a. so tours (in German only) are available only on Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 4 p. Twin towers flank the west portal with its sculptures depicting the theme of redemption. Here. soaring pillars adorned with expressive Gothic sculptures line the nave. magic lanterns. draw.m. more if you have kids in tow.

Sun 1–4 p. candies. St. Richard-Wagner-Platz 2–10 (% 0911/231-3808. Performances by singers and musicians. Bus: 36). and Saturday from 10 a. Living it up after dark in Nuremberg The Städtische Bühnen (State Theaters). is Gothic. Steiff Galerie. and Glühwein (hot red wine spiced with cloves and cinnamon).m. has classic and collectible Steiff bears for 90€ to 140€ ($112–$175).m.–6 p. to 4 p. dance. The Christmas fair transforms Hauptmarkt into a small town of wood-and-cloth stalls selling tree ornaments. The square is especially beautiful at night. U-Bahn: Weisser Turm). when all the surrounding buildings are floodlit. Between the two east pillars is a 16thcentury Crucifixion group dominated by a life-size Crucifix by Veit Stoss.m.–8 p. the Handwerkerhof (Craftsmen’s Courtyard. The shops are open weekdays (and Sun in Dec) from 10 a.m. An artists’ hangout.m. consecrated in 1379. and theater. % 0911/209-287. and . the oldest Christmas fair in Germany. is a theater complex offering productions of drama (in the Schauspielhaus) and opera (in the Opernhaus). to 6:30 p. Shopping in Nuremberg Located across from the railway station..-Sebaldus-Kirche Consecrated in 1273. June–Sept daily 9:30 a.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof) is an enclave of halftimbered shops and stalls where artisans create and sell a wide range of handicrafts (along with touristy souvenirs). fruitcakes. % 0911/214-2516. this church dedicated to Nuremberg’s patron saint represents the stylistic transition from late Romanesque to early Gothic styles. Admission: Free. Stuttgart. Lorenzer Platz 10..m.. U-Bahn: Lorenzerkirche). opens early for big breakfasts (served all day) that run from 4€ to 18€ ($5–$22) and offers soup. Rathausplatz 7 (% 0911/204-848. From Advent Sunday to December 24.m. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit the station). held here for some 400 years. The nave and west choir are Romanesque. See map p. 355. Open: Mar–May daily 9:30 a.–4 p.m. tinsel.m. and Nuremberg 363 See map p.Chapter 18: Heidelberg.. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit).m. Karl-Griolenberger-Strasse 28 (% 0911/ 223-041. Nuremberg’s Hauptmarkt becomes the setting for the Christkindlmarkt. Tickets range from 8€ to 50€ ($10–$63). Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. Lebkuchen (see the sidebar “Love that Lebkuchen”). handicrafts. Sebalderplatz. sells painted tin figures of soldiers and Christmas decorations. and puppet groups occur daily. Admission: Free. Oct–Feb daily 9 a. U-Bahn: Opernhaus).m. Triebhaus. Hofman.–5 p.m. Kaiserstrasse 1–9 (% 0911/235-5075. the larger east choir. 355. salad.

to be the best Lebkuchen store in Nuremberg. Lebkuchen Frauenholz. Many consider Lebkuchen Schmidt.364 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Love that Lebkuchen Lebkuchen (layb-koo-kin) is to Nuremberg what Marzipan is to Lübeck. and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a.50) until 10:30 p. has a pleasant patio where you can order a drink or a sandwich. Bergstrasse 1 (% 0911/243-464. inexpensive gift.m.m. sandwich specials from 4.50€ to 6€ ($5.m. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. to 1 a.m.m. . and Saturday and Sunday from 9 www. While jealously guarding their recipes. to 1 a. Lebkuchen makes a great.60–$8.60–$7. to 1 a.m.50€ to 7€ ($5.75). The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a. These delicious honey-andspice cakes evolved into their round shape in Nuremberg. Tetzelgasse 21 (% 0911/221-921.m. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche). sells Lebkuchen packed in containers that look like half-timbered German houses.m.m.lebkuchenschmidt. many places make and sell Lebkuchen in several different forms. Zollhausstrasse 30 (% 0911/89660. Café Ruhestörung. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche). Sandwiches and light meals cost 4. The city’s been the capital of Lebkuchen since the early 15th century. to 1 a.

flows through the Bodensee (Lake Constance. From Cologne. and vineyard-covered slopes. miles) and is a treasure-trove for tourists. and northwest to the North Sea. encompasses roughly 23. I give most of the coverage to Cologne.000 sq. Sitting right on the river.Chapter 19 Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the Rhine-side city of Cologne ᮣ Enjoying a boat trip on the Rhine ᮣ Exploring the warm wine country of the Rheingau ᮣ Taking in the scenery of the lovely Mosel Valley T he Rhine (spelled Rhein in German) is one of the world’s great rivers. see Chapter 17). the area along the river’s west bank. this city makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland. Goarshausen. For about two centuries now. she sat on the rock combing her long. the most famous being the one attached to a high rock called the Lorelei (also spelled Loreley) towering above the town of St. the river originates in southeastern Switzerland. was a beautiful young woman who threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover. blonde hair and taking out her revenge by luring fishermen and ship captains to their destruction. Some 1. you can drive into the Rheingau. medieval towns. Lorelei. so the story goes. and forms Germany’s southwestern boundary as it continues west. the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world.) In this chapter. Through the centuries.320km (820 miles) long. a lovely winegrowing section of the . the Rhineland’s largest and most important city. Transformed into a siren. (See “The Rhineland” map in this chapter. The Rhineland. the Rhine has inspired many legends. km (9. who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles. north.000 sq. The Rhine also is at the musical heart of Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen.

000 years of history. the emperor Claudius gave the city municipal rights as capital of a Roman province. or trade-fair grounds. Cologne’s unique and delicious beer. visitors and citizens alike stroll along the Rhine promenades and flock to outdoor taverns and restaurants to enjoy the pleasures of a Kölsch.C. The range of its museums and the quality of their collections make Cologne one of the outstanding museum cities of Germany. and general delirium. 50. an opera at the highly regarded opera house. And although not as grand and legend-filled as the Rhine. I describe the highlights of all these side trips later in this chapter.” one of the most important pilgrimage cities in medieval Christendom. Music. You can see Roman ruins in an underground parking garage. a time of masked balls. Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine Visitors to this lively metropolis on the Rhine.. many of whom come to attend the giant international trade fairs held in the Köln Messe. The Kölner themselves are refreshingly relaxed and down-to-earth in how they enjoy their city. Older than the cathedral. The city also is famous as the birthplace of eau de Cologne. As early as A. On a ten-minute walk in Cologne. the Mosel Valley. and getting there is easy by train. Germany’s fourth-largest and oldest city. parades. you can traverse 2. a dizzyingly ornate Gothic cathedral beside a modern museum complex. Getting there Cologne is one of the major cities in western Germany. and a humble Romanesque church wedged in among luxury shops. is likewise a vital component of life here. when Roman legions set up camp here. and a substantial meal of typical Rhineland cuisine.D. . whether it’s a symphony concert in the modern philharmonic hall. Ancient traditions are annually renewed in the city’s raucous pre-Lenten Carnival (called Fasching). the churches drew medieval pilgrims from all across Europe to “Holy Cologne. Every year they welcome millions of visitors. In addition to its substantial Roman legacy.366 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. or a boisterous outdoor concert in the Rheinpark. covered with meticulously tended vineyards. car. the city boasts 12 major Romanesque churches. is also worth exploring. or plane. When the weather turns warm. Cologne — spelled Köln in Germany and pronounced koeln — offers far more than just Germany’s largest cathedral. are immediately struck by Cologne’s cheek-by-jowl juxtaposition of the very old with the very new. Cologne traces its beginnings to 38 B.

Direct flights arrive from most major European cities.m. www. The fastest and simplest way to get into the city is by taking an S-Bahn train (S-13) from the new airport train station directly to the Cologne main train station. the fare is 3€ ($3.airport-cgn.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 367 The Rhineland Rh A57 A31 A3 A43 A1 Hamm A2 A44 7 0 0 64 55 30 mi Paderborn N 30 km in e 68 Herne NETHERLANDS Duisburg Essen A2 Dortmund Hamburg 7 A44 7 Mönchengladbach Hochneukirch A61 A4 Düsseldorf A46 A1 Wuppertal A45 55 ANY R MBerlin GE Bonn Area of detail Frankfurt 252 am Main A44 Cologne (Köln) A4 Siegen 62 Munich 3 Aachen Bonn Bad Godesberg A1 258 Marburg A45 A3 3 Alsfeld A5 A61 255 42 54 Giessen Wetzlar 49 Rh in e BELGIUM 9 Koblenz A3 A27 A5 A45 Daun A48 A61 54 Gelnhausen ose A1 327 Wiesbaden Rüdesheim Frankfurt am Main A3 M l Assmannshausen Bingen 50 Bitburg Mainz Aschaffenburg Rh i Bad Kreuznach LUXEMBOURG Trier Luxembourg A1 41 A63 A61 Darmstadt A5 A67 M a in ne Idar-Oberstein 271 Bockenheim Grünstadt Neuleiningen A6 9 Worms 469 A62 Mannheim Ne Kaiserslautern A8 A6 A62 Ludwigshafen Speyer 10 ckar 27 Heidelberg A6 A65 9 Saarbrücken Metz F R A N C E A5 Heilbronn Karlsruhe By plane Cologne’s . to nearly 2 a. It runs from 5 a. Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn (% 02203/ 40-40-01. is located 14km (9 miles) southeast of the city. A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 25€ ($31). The trip takes 20 minutes.

0.” later in this chapter. For train information and schedules. The city’s early industrial plants were concentrated in Deutz. and information on city attractions. Deutz is where you find the Köln Messe (trade-fair grounds) and the Rhinepark. next to the cathedral. including the mighty cathedral and the most important museums. www. (See the “Cologne” map in this chapter. so reaching the city from anywhere in Germany or the rest of Europe is easy.50€ ($2) for adults. and many of them are still there. Getting around The compact and pedestrian-friendly Altstadt. Getting oriented The major sights of Cologne. A day ticket. The Altstadt spreads in a semicircle west from the Rhine to a ring road that follows the line of the 12th-century city walls (demolished. The A3 Autobahn connects the city to the north and south. while the A4 Autobahn travels east and The office has city maps. described under “Exploring Cologne. Finding information The Köln Tourismus Office. to 5 p. a room-rental service (3€/$3. where you find the cathedral and most of the major attractions. are located in the Altstadt (Old Town). where the Romans built their first walled colony. except for three gateways.368 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany By train Cologne is a major rail hub. is a . call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. to 8 p.bahn. is located just a few steps from the cathedral. The city also has an excellent bus. The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is in the heart of the city. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). The area across the river.75€ ($1) for children.75).) The center of the Altstadt is the Innenstadt (Inner City). Frequent daily trains arrive from Berlin (trip time: 51⁄2 hours). and S-Bahn (light-rail) system. Frankfurt (trip time: 21⁄2 hours). is called Deutz. is easily explored on foot. the Kölner Tageskarte. Unter Fettenhennen 19 (% 0221/221-30400. the “new” part of town dating from the 19th century. tram. in the 19th century).m. Besides providing the best views of the cathedral-dominated Cologne skyline.m. The ring road and a greenbelt in the southwest (the location of the university) girdle Neustadt. U-Bahn (subway). the historical heart of Cologne. good for a single one-way fare within the inner city is 1. and Sunday 10 a. the restored and much altered medieval core of the and Hamburg (trip time: 41⁄2 hours). on the Rhine’s east bank. costs 8€ ($10) and enables you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network (but the Cologne Welcome Card. The office is open Monday through Saturday from 9 A CityTicket. By car Cologne is easily reached from major German cities.

3 3 Go Haupt. Friesen. ach nb h le Fitzengraben Ja hn auRhein strasse ch n e R h i strasse Severi nsbrück e en ass Am ais el- str en os ha M xem U llr Bus Ka Lo th rin Sa ge rS Lu rtä se chg ich Barbarossaplatz Sa lie rri Bu ng rg un str de as se rs tr. E hr e n s t r a s se Br e i t e T u ni 10 Brüc ke str . Thieboldgasse 12 LeonhardTietz-Str. ch sse Vo tra tra NEUSTADT Eif rte n VOLKSGARTEN str. V ictori astrass tr. i n er gu st Au Pipi nstr. i 9 8 Hohe Strasse Hohenzollernbrücke 4 5 Am Ho f INNENSTADT 6 7 Frankenverft 2 DEUTZ S tr . s en - Köln Messe e r n -Str Auf dem Berlich senstr. r- Tanzbrunnen n imi M ax t r . 15 Sa 16 16 Deutzer Brüc ke Mittelstrasse Rudolfplatz SchilderCäcilien- gasse Nordt Süd Fahr Hahnenstr.P rb e g th erl Ro en bach gra b ba Mü Waidmarkt str .Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 369 Cologne 0 0 0. Agripp Ro on h str bac as se r. Johan nisstr. St. lks sse ga rin ll K a r tä use Eifelplatz n- wa g f rho D r eik ö n i g ens t r. astr.gasslde bahnhof Kennedy-Ufer Ch rist str oph. Zeu g haus rgmauer Bu . iden ga sse us ALTSTADT-S ALTSTADT-SÜD V Sieb or den en b u rg en us er- rge ga s se ergLandsb e strass asse nstr Rose Hamburg Berlin en-e Bay ass str e bu GERMANY Cologne r- W . Mauri tiusste Neumarkt Gürzenichstr. Alten Uf er Konrad .-A p Richmodstr. erst Neue W ey We sse kt G r o n ma r ch e G ri e au Bl er. Frankfurt Munich wall erin Sev sUbie rrin g els ACCOMMODATIONS Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Excelsior Hotel Ernst 3 Hotel Engelbertz 11 Hyatt Regency Köln 2 Senats Hotel 14 DINING Bräuhaus Sion 7 Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Früh am Dom 8 Hanse Stube 3 Sünner im Walfisch 15 Taku 3 ATTRACTIONS Dom 4 4711 Haus 10 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 9 Museum Ludwig 6 Kölner-Seilbahn 1 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 5 Schnütgen Museum 12 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 13 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn i Siegburger Str.Ma Frie gnu sstra sse platz Hohenzol lernFriesenwall ring s t r.25 km Uf e M Turiner Wi Kai lhe ser lm -Ri ng Tunisstrasse Mohrenstrasse Am Gereonshof Gere onst r. 13 Heumarkt Fleischme ngerg. str. ALTSTADT-NORD M a r zellens t r . e Ur s u las Machab äerst ras se de n a ue Ha a ns rin g s cht Eigelstein b ay ac Strasse Domstrasse Dagobertst rasse R h i n e N r tr hs as se Ha g rin nsa nso re Ge wall Thürmchenswall 1 RHEINPARK tr. n - 14 Alter Markt 11 lzg. Mindener s s t ras s e St ras s e Minoritenstrasse Fischmarkt rger Habsbug rin Ei fe Am Leystapel - Mau ritius wall ng l lner Neukö e Strass Hohe nstau in w fenri eg Holz- TelAviv -Str asse Severin strasse markt r lsbe be Ga gerstrasse l al lw .A Gl Erftstrasse ad Strenba ass ch e er ll tra wa Ein ns reo e G Kyotostr.25 mi 0.

or at the stations. 50667 Köln. tiled bathroom with shower. See map p. Hotel Engelbertz $ Altstadt This modest.” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events in Germany. Ten units come with a small. Rates include buffet breakfast. the fare rises 1. and general delirium. from bus drivers. right on the Rhine in the busiest section of the Altstadt. some rooms have beamed ceilings. The season officially lasts from New Year’s Eve to Ash Wednesday. Taxi meters start at 2. The 31 rooms are fairly basic but comfortable and not lacking in a kind of old-fashioned charm. For information about public transportation. better deal because it includes public transportation and free or reduced-price entry to museums and other attractions). The city buzzes with masked balls. 369. family-run hotel is in a central location close to everything in the Altstadt. Natives call this citywide celebration Fasteleer or Fastelovend. the city’s “fifth season.370 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Celebrating carnival in Cologne Cologne’s Carnival. call VRS at % 01803/504-030. % 0221/272-7777. and modern.50€ ($2) per kilometer thereafter.” later in this chapter). Fax: 0221/257-4232. plus 1€ ($1. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt The two town houses that make up this hotel stand on a corner of a historic square. www. 90€–108€ ($112–$135) double with bathroom. Be sure to validate your ticket. parades.25) if you hail a taxi from the street. From the wine restaurant on the ground floor (see “Dining in Cologne. The hotel has 40 rooms. Rates: 64€–85€ ($80–$106) double without bathroom. . validation machines are in stations and on buses. Purchase tickets from the automated machines (labeled Fahrscheine). Fischmarkt 1–3. wooden staircase (or take the elevator) to your room. Excelsior Hotel Ernst ($$$$). The decoration throughout is light. you climb up a curving. Staying in Cologne Also see Chapter 22 for details on Cologne’s premier hotel. all with small bathrooms that have a tub or shower. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). call Taxi-Ruf at % 0221/ To order a taxi.50€ ($3).

au nfo M be er Fr ch pe pp im rS e th rS ek nw en ba ück sthe he Ka ldae Ho ue ölne fra Kipp rank r öh Kalk Mer Fieh u e lk e m u B I L a H R F N F K K 1 Bensberg .S-Bahn Langenfeld LEV-Rheindorf 12 Merkenich 1 Nievenheim 3 LEV-Küppersteg Schiebusch LEV Mitte Bayerwerk K-Stammheim Bergisch Gladbach K-Dellbrück K-Holweide Duckterath 13 4 Dormagen Dormagen Bayerwek 4 Merkenich Mitte Fordwerke Nord Fordwerke Mitte Fordwerke Süd Geestemünder Str. Porz Porz-Wahn Spich Troisdorf Köln / Bonn Flughafen c Fre Siegburg He nn ef en nk Bla bu rg M e art n o Eit rf n ld rn h he nfe de ac rsc tte sb Au (Sieg) hla He Da Sc Ro Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Sankt Augustin-Mülldorf Sankt Augustin Markt Sankt Augustin Kloster Buschdorf 16 Severinsbrücke Drehbrücke Zülpicher Platz Poller Kirchweg Gleuser Str./ M e Eu Clar Gürtel ter l A Brahmsstr. Reichenspergerplatz Außere Kanalstr. 17 Buchheim Frankfurter Str. Am Emberg K-Worringen K-Chorweiler Nord 6 15 K-Chorweiler Chorweiler 7 K Volkhovener Weg 8 Niehl Mülheim Berliner Str./Gürtel Slabystr./Gürtel Liebigstr. Str ter r fu nk f mp fad n Fra dho . Amsterdamer Neusser Str./ Rektor-Klein-Str. Bottensternstr. platz Escher Str. Neumarkt Weyertal 15 Baumschulenweg Mersdorf Universität 6 Kölner Str. W Ba M Ju Rh Bf Deutz / DeutzKölnarena Kalker Bad Deutzer Freiheit u He Weiden Schulstr./Gürtel Leyendeckerstr. Severinstr. Berrenrather Str. Os Au to th eim hn ba Ste e inw Köln Hbf g Po rze Bf Deutz / Messe r r llb llb De De . 18 K-Longerich 9 Scheibenstr. Bayenhalgürtel Frechen Bahnhof Eifelplatz Chlodwigplatz Kloster Heinrich-Lübke-Ufer Euskirchener Str. u Ne Bocklemünd 17 Thielenbruch 18 19 Breslauer Platz / Hbf Koelnmesse Osthallen Wilhelm-Sollmann-Str. Str. d pfa tst r. Gilgaustr. Takuplatz Platz K-Mülheim Zoo / Flora LenauAkazienweg K-Nippes Grünstr. Gutenbergstr. rin r St chst är e ilit pen nba Dürener Str. Wichheimer Str. Pohligstr. r g ma swe en ttg Rö Königsforst 9 Melaten Wüllner-str./ Rodenkirchen Herthastr. Lohsestr. Zülpicher Str. Düren g ift r./ Ulreporte Lindenburg Ubierring Eifelwall Haus Vorst Westhoven Gürtel Weißhausstr. Waldecker Str. K Hansaring K Ehrenfeld K-Müngersdorf / Technologiepark Venicer Str. Ensen Arnulfstr. 3 Schaffrathsgasse 4 16 Buchheim Herfer Str. Str. Parkgürtel Kinderkrankenhaus Margaretastr. n Gürtel dio m Sta Hans-Böckler-Platz ru Oskar-Jägarie nt rf Bf West Friesenplatz Ze tr. K-Deutz Dom/Hbf Christophstr. Mauritluskirche Buir Merzenich K Frankfurter Str./ oh nk ein eid h Maarweg Gürtel Universitäts-str. eg tr. Gürtel Stüttgenhof 8 Poll Salmstr. Eifelstr./Bf Süd 17 Raiffeisenstr. sp ka se rst ie rg str en au ide lle tr. Porz Steinstr. weg rsdo nerg Str. Keupstr. Frechen-Benzeirath K Airport Businesspark 7 se as M g len üh Fre e ch nR at u ha s nK he irc he K Steinstr./ Piusstr. Wiener Florastr. Maria Himmelfahrt Str. Sülzburgstr. 3 13 Mengenich Oflenhauerring 5 Ossendorf 15 e feld k üc M k üc rS s au up Ha tr. tr rS th Ra - FrechenKönigsdorf Appeilhofplatz Heumarkt Suevenstr. 19 Heimersdorf Longericher Herforder Str. Moltke-str./Gürtel n e s n e e n Aachener Str. Altonaer Platz 6 12 Longerich Friedhof Meerfeldstr. Leuchterstr. Wolffsohnstr. Mollwitzstr. Nesselrodestr. Von-Sparr-Str. K-Blumenberg 5 Odenthaler Str. Stegerwaldsiedlung Ebertplatz Subbelrather Str. / Gürtel K Geldernstr. horrem Sindorf 1 Weinsbergstr. Sülz Hermeskeller Platz Sülzgürtel 8 Porz Markt Gürtel Siegstr./ Mediapark Körnerstr. Holweide Vischering Str. Berliner Str. Mommsen-str. Westfriedhof Mülheim Iltisstr. Schönhauser Str. Dasselstr. K-Lövenich Kalk Post K Trimbornstr. 9 Gottesweg Klettenbergpark Michaelshoven Rosenhügel Kalscheurer Weg 19 Sürth Efferen Zollstockgürtel Godorf Zündorf Kiebitzweg 7 Wesseling Nord Hürth-Hermülheim Zollstock Südfriedhof Wesseling Fischenich 12 Brühl-Vochem Wesseling Süd Brühl Nord Urfeld Brühl Mitte Brühl Süd Widdig Brühl-Badorf Uedorf Brühl-Schwadorf Hersel Walberberg Merten 18 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn 371 Sankt Augustin Ort . K-Buchforst Nußbaumerstr. Im Weidenbruch 16 Niehl Sebastianstr.

this modern full-service hotel features a dramatic lobby with a waterfall and a glamorous overall ambience. www. visit one of the city’s old tavernrestaurants (see listings for Früh am Dom and Bräuhaus Sion. generally over enormous portions of typical Rhineland fare in crowded restaurants that are gemütlich (cozy) rather than elegant. Rates: 100€ ($125) double. Hämchen (cured pork knuckle cooked in vegetable broth). MC. 369. later in this section). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across Roncalliplatz and south on Unter Goldschmied). Fax: 0221/ 206-2200. The furnishings in the 59 rooms have a comfortable. 50667 Köln. Local dishes at these and other nongourmet restaurants generally include Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese). Rates include buffet breakfast. a five-minute walk across the Rhine from the train station. www. MC. Rates include breakfast. 50667 Kö See map p. To eat and drink as the Kölner do. Rates: 160€–375€ ($200–$469) double. The 305 rooms are comfortably large and stylishly furnished. V. AE. Kölsch Kaviar (smoked blood sausage served with raw onion rings). onions.372 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. % 0180/523-1234 or 0221/ 828-1234. Hyatt Regency Köln $$ –$$$$ Deutz Located in 50679 Köln-Deutz. it’s a place for conversation and drinking. north on Hohe Strasse. and spices and served on bread or a roll). Obenmarspforten 1–3. Fax: 0221/ 257-8924. The hotel has a nice ambience throughout. Senats Hotel $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. Bathrooms have deep tubs with showers. and east on Obenmarspforten). DC. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Gürzenichstrasse. % 0221/20620. www. See map p. Rates: 120€–245€ ($150– $306).hyatt. Cologne is not a city particularly known for its gourmet dining. sauna. Dining in Cologne Although several highly rated restaurants have established themselves here in recent years.senats-hotel. Tatar (finely minced raw beef mixed with egg yolk. and steam room. Matjesfilet mit grünen Bohnen (pickled white herring served with green butter beans and potatoes). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across the bridge). AE. The Hyatt has fine restaurants and a fitness center with a pool. modern style. stylish hotel with its bright-yellow lobby is located in the heart of the Altstadt. Fax: 0221/828-1370. V. % 0221/257-8994. Unter Goldschmied 9–17.hotel-engelbertz. 369. 369. Bathrooms are on the small side but vary according to the Kennedy-ufer 2A. MC. Rather. V. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. Himmel und Äd (apples and . Many have views of the Rhine and the cathedral on the other side.

delicious. Sion is the place. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). Main courses 9€–16€ ($11–$20). the wood paneling a little smoky with time and frequent polishing.50€–23€ ($12–$28). The main courses are traditional and filling Rhineland fare. and potato dumplings. 369. . Fish main courses include roasted pikeperch on lentils with balsamic vinegar and salmon poached in Rhine wine.m. Although the wine is the main reason for coming (the local Rhine wines are that special). % 0221/257-8540. The menu also includes vegetarian and pasta dishes. V. MC. just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral. Bräuhaus Sion $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN If you want a traditional local Bräuhaus where the beer is good. you’ll probably like Kölsch (koehlsch). a dry. or sauerbraten (pot. No credit cards. marinated herring. west on Mühlengasse. Unter Taschenmacher 5. Kölsch: Cologne’s beer of choice Even if you don’t like beer. The Bräuhaus also has a few rooms upstairs that it rents out.50€ ($2) for a small glass of Kölsch on tap. Open: Daily noon to 11:30 p. If you go to any of the taverns in town. called a Köbes. which they bring to your table in a special carrier called a Kölschkranz. AE. See map p. Main courses: 9. and the food portions inexpensive and generous. A Rhineland meat specialty is sauerbraten with almonds. Closed Dec 22–Jan 10. Bockwurst (sausage) with potato salad. a double with bathroom and breakfast goes for 60€ ($ 75). or stuffed mushrooms. thin glass. the cuisine also is very good. Expect to pay about 1. See map p. such as Riesenhämchen (boiled pigs’ knuckles) with sauerkraut. Kölsch has an alcohol content of about 3 percent (most other types of German beer have an alcohol content ranging from 4 percent to 6 percent). 369. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This popular wine restaurant (and hotel. called a Stangen.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 373 potatoes boiled and mashed together and served with fried blood sausage). raisins.m. Fischmarkt 1–3. The waiters always serve the beer in a tall. and Speckpfannekuchen (pancakes fried in smoked bacon fat). topfermented beer that’s brewed only in Cologne. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north along the Rhine promenade.m. and north on Unter Taschenmacher). % 0221/272-7777. You may start with escargots. Open: Daily 11 a.–11 p.or oven-roasted marinated beef) with an almond-raisin sauce. Reservations recommended. you can order a Kölsch from one of the blue-aproned waiters. see “Staying in Cologne” earlier in this chapter) opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine.

this tavern also has a beer garden. The menu is in English. it dates from 1626. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and across Roncalliplatz to Am Hof). . economy. AE. with a different German specialty offered every day of the week. AE. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Salzgasse). on the ground floor. iced melon risotto with shrimp skewer. Hanse Stube offers excellent cuisine and service in quiet. Fixed-price business lunch: 30€–38€ ($37–$47). and leg of venison with a cognac-thyme sauce. is a good choice for atmospheric dining. Fixed-price menus: 72€–79€ ($90–$99). See map p. on a narrow street set back from the Rhine. to midnight. Main courses: 9.m. MC. how about strawberries with cappuccino-chocolate sauce? The wine list is exemplary. See map p. V. a Cologne specialty of smoked pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and potato purée. 369. Reservations recommended.m. Früh-Kölsch. Fri 3 p. DC.m. stuffed kohlrabi with truffle. Open: Mon–Thurs 5 p. to midnight. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. The restaurant serves many Rhineland specialties and dishes influenced by French cuisine. Main courses: 14€–30€ ($17–$37). A favorite dish is Hämchen. elegant surroundings. and hearty portions. to midnight. has a 1. See map p. Main courses: 9€–17€ ($11–$21). to midnight. You may try the pork cutlet with fried onions and crispy roast potatoes or the land-and-sea platter with roast beef and several kinds of fish. The menu changes daily but may include crayfish and avocado salad or grilled scallops for starters. No credit cards. Sat–Sun 11 a. Am Hof 12–14. % 0221/261-3250. % 0221/270-3402. Sünner im Walfisch $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/FRENCH This Bräuhaus.000-year-old brewing tradition.m. the tavern’s beer on tap. V. Reservations recommended. is better). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse).m.m. Domplatz. Other specialties include Sauerkrautsuppe (sauerkraut soup) and Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings). MC. DC. In summer. You can eat in the upstairs or downstairs dining rooms (upstairs. Tasty main courses include basil risotto. For dessert.50€–19€ ($12–$24). % 0221/257-7879. and 6:30–10:30 p. Open: 8 a. 369. Hanse Stube $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH One of Cologne’s top gourmet restaurants. A step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered facade. Salzgasse 13. 369.374 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Früh am Dom $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN This Bräuhaus is the best all-around for atmosphere.

or more ambitious dishes such as sweet-and-sour prawn soup with baked pineapple. AE. housed in a glass case at the end of the choir. 369. The Cologne Welcome Card. the Asian restaurant in the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. is the cathedral’s major treasure. A one-day card costs 9€ ($11). the cathedral . and 6–10 p.m. the Cologne cathedral was the tallest building in the world.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Taku $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt JAPANESE/ASIAN 375 Taku. a beef filet salad. See map p. Exploring Cologne You find the cathedral and all the major museums in the Innenstadt. Reservations recommended for dinner. the largest cathedral in northern Europe. Dom (Cathedral) Considering how much time passed during the building of this gigantic edifice. its twin filigreed spires rising to a height of 157m (515 ft. After a day of sightseeing. Upon completion. screen paintings. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). available from the tourist office. V. DC. which can be visited only on guided tours. the choir contains original. Main courses: 23€–37€ ($29–$46). seared monkfish with green mango salad. and a one-day family/group card good for two adults and two children or three adults costs 18€ ($22).m. the roughly half-square-mile area of the original Roman colony. is the most important part of the cathedral. % 0221/270-3910. The Dreikönigschrein (Shrine of the Three Magi). and a series of statues made in the cathedral workshop between 1270 and 1290. Consecrated in 1322. The giant reliquary is a masterpiece of goldsmith work dating from the end of the 12th century. richly carved oak stalls. The famous Three Kings windows in the clerestory (the area above the nave) were installed in the early 14th century. The choir. The food is good. Fixed-price dinner menus: 49€–69€ ($61–$86). is good for travel on all forms of public transportation and gets you into most museums for free or at a reduced cost. the service highly professional. More than 600 years elapsed from the laying of the cornerstone in 1248 to the placement of the last finial (a decorative element) on the south tower in 1880. it’s a wonder that the Gothic facade is stylistically coherent. Domplatz. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. The restaurant’s striking design includes a serpentine fish tank built into the floor. round off your visit with an evening stroll along the Rhine promenade in Deutz. In addition to some magnificent Renaissance-era stained-glass windows in the north aisle. is a serenely comfortable spot to enjoy sea-fresh sushi and sashimi. Overwhelming is the simplest way to describe it. MC.). In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. a twoday card costs 14€ ($17). or curry with beef filet.

–5 p. On the south side of the choir is Stephan Lochner’s altarpiece.50) adults.m. Open: Tues–Sun 11 a. Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) The treasures on display in this museum include furniture. In operation since 1957. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the Dom on Unter Fettenhenn to An der Rechtsschule). 369. The cathedral’s Schatzkammer (Treasury) is rather disappointing.50€ ($3.–7:30 p. The painting is a masterpiece of the Cologne school — Italian in format. An der Rechtsschule. tower alone 2€ ($2. created around 1445.. and 12:30.90) adults. and the American designer Charles Eames.m. Riehler Strasse 180.25) adults. 2€ ($2. hanging in a chapel on the north side of the choir. German architect Mies van der Rohe. Admission: Cathedral free. (winter until dusk). Admission: 4.50) children and students.m. % 0221/221-23860.m.m. See map p.10) children and students. Admission: Round-trip ticket 5. Open: Apr–Oct daily 10 a. Flemish in the precision of its execution. you’re in reasonably good shape. The Gero Cross.m.. the first and only cable-car system in Europe designed to span a major river. Domkloster. See map p. % 0221/9258-4730. Open: Cathedral daily 6 a. U-Bahn: Zoo/Flora (then a 2-minute walk south to the departure point on the west side of the river).25) children 6–12.m. treasury daily 10 a. among others.–5 p.25) adults.25) children and students.75) children. If. the exhibits. 3€ ($3. 1€ ($1. On the ground floor and mezzanine. the enclosed gondolas cross the river beside the Zoobrücke (Zoo Bridge) between the Rheinpark in Deutz and the zoo. You can make a circuit of the interior in about half an hour. Give yourself about an hour to see everything. tour cost: 4€ ($5) adults. 369. 2. tower daily 9 a.m. exclusively from the 20th century. You get a great view of the cathedral and the river traffic along the Rhine.m.m.20€ ($5. 2.– 6 p.–6 p. % 0221/547-4184. Sun 2 and 3:30 p.376 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany really has only two other must-see treasures. Kölner Seilbahn (Cologne Cable Car) You get the best panoramic view of the city of Cologne by taking the Kölner Seilbahn. Tours: English-language tours Mon–Sat 11 a. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (you see the cathedral as you come out of the train station). and handicrafts from the Middle Ages to the present day. 369. treasury and tower combined 5€ ($6.60€ ($3.m. Adoration of the Magi. . and 3:30 p. 2.m.m. on the other hand. you can climb the 509 stairs of the 14th-century south tower (entry through the Portal of St. The trip takes about 15 minutes each way. Peter) for an inspiring view of the city and the Rhine. The Art Nouveau room is particularly impressive. home décor.. the guided tours last one hour. and you aren’t missing much if you skip it. See map p. include rooms and furniture by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.50€ ($6. is a rare monumental sculpture carved in Cologne in the late tenth century and reputedly the oldest-existing large-scale crucifix in the Western world.

Before you enter. Centuries before the symbol became ominously identified with the atrocities of the Third Reich.D. more if you love modern art.. Exhibits represent nearly every major artist and art movement of the 20th century. . Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. and was known in Latin as the crux gamata. a museum within the museum. is devoted to the history of photography. the cult of the dead. when the Roman legions were recalled from the Rhine frontier. Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) Cologne’s history.–6 p. Admission: 7. 401.50€ ($7) children and students. is inextricably bound with the history of Rome — a legacy that is documented in this fascinating museum. The Roman-Germanic Museum was built around the magnificent Dionysius mosaic. a street paved with its original stones. Towering over the mosaic.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 377 The Roman city of Colonia By 50 B. on the right side of the museum is Hafenstrasse. See map p. you find an ancient black-andwhite mosaic floor covered with swastikas. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and east on Roncalliplatz). The area became a military garrison with an imperial shrine and eventually was granted rights as a Roman city called Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (CCAA) in A. opened in 1986.m.m. trade and industry. constructed around A.D.50) adults. which once ran down to the Roman harbor. Give yourself at least an hour. dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art. 40 for a Roman officer. Cologne’s Roman period lasted until A. 369. The museum covers the period that extends from the Stone Age to the period of Charlemagne (9th century). The exhibits explore themes or types: religious life. You need at least an hour to browse through the entire museum. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. which extols the joys of good living.C. produced in a Rhineland workshop in the third century and discovered in 1941 by workers digging an air-raid shelter. Museum Ludwig This museum. Julius Caesar had extended the borders of the Roman Empire as far as the Rhine and established an alliance with the Germanic Ubii tribe on the site of presentday Cologne.D. the swastika — probably Indian in origin — was a symbol of good luck and happiness. 5. it is the largest antique tomb ever found north of the Alps. On the lowest level. devoted to the daily life of the Romans. and the fabric of the city today. 50. % 0221/221-22379. Portions of an original Roman wall still stand beneath Domplatz in the underground parking lot. and so on. On the second floor. look at the section of the Roman North Gate preserved on Domplatz in front of the cathedral. you can see a superlative collection of Roman glassware and a world-renowned collection of Roman jewelry. The Agfa-Foto-Historama. is the tomb of Lucius Poblicius.50€ ($9.

45€ ($8) adults. Edvard Munch. Called simply Tod (Death). The new museum nicely shows off the art but somehow feels like an office building from the 1950s. Open: Tues 10 a.–5 p. Wallraf-Richartz Museum The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is one of the country’s greatest repositories of art from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century.25) adults.. Here you find Rubens’s Self-Portrait Amidst the Circle of Friends from Mantua and an enigmatic self-portrait by Rembrandt.80€ ($7. Admission: 3. % 0221/221-21119. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. 369. with major pieces by the German Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich.m. The relics. Wed–Fri 10 a.30€ ($4) students and children.20€ ($4) adults. 1. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. In addition to important French and Spanish works. around the back. Roncalliplatz 4.m. crucifixes. On the first floor. a skeleton has been spray-painted on the walled-in western portal of the church.m. and Vincent van Gogh. Ursula in particular. Try not to miss this small. U-Bahn: Neumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Pipinstrasse. .–5 p. splendid sampling of sacred art from the early Middle Ages to the baroque. Auguste Renoir..m.90€ ($2.m. you find an outstanding collection of paintings by the medieval Cologne school (most done between 1330 and 1550). % 0221/221-22304. 3. 369.m. patron saint of music) houses one of Cologne’s finest art collections. Schnütgen Museum The Romanesque church of St. The Renaissance section includes works by Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach.m. In 2000. Admission: 5.m. A memorable collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings holds pride of place on the second floor. which becomes Cäcilienstrasse). See map p. the museum boasts a rich collection of 19th-century paintings. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk south past the cathedral to Roncalliplatz).m.m. Sat–Sun 11 a. among scores of others.–5 p.m. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Unter Käster to Martinstrasse). % 0221/221-22310.–8 p. Sat–Sun 11 a. reliquaries. 369. Cäcilien (St. Opened in 1861. Admission: 6..– 6 p. the museum also is one of Germany’s oldest. this oddly engaging work is by the Zurich graffiti artist Harald Nägele. Cäcilienstrasse 29. Martinstrasse 39. Give yourself about two hours if you want to browse through all the galleries. and sculpture on display give you an idea of the artistic blessings bestowed upon “Holy Cologne. 3.–6 p.378 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. Many of the paintings and altarpieces depict legends from the lives of martyred saints who became identified with the “Holy Cologne” of the Middle Ages — St. Gustave Courbet.95€ ($5) children. Cecilia. See map p.” Outside.m. the museum moved to a new building designed by Cologne architect Oswald Mathias Ungers.50) children.

next to the cathedral (% 0221/2801. sells unusually decorated and comfortable felt slippers and those enormous Überpantoffeln you slip over your shoes and slide around in when touring German palaces. Schildergasse is where you find international men’s fashions. sells the orange-and-lavender-scented water first developed in Cologne in 1709 by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina. The smallest bottle costs about 5€ ($6. Cologne offers a variety of fine arts and nightlife options. and perfumeries. Three specialty shops worth knowing about: Schirmbusch. Walter König’s Postkartenlade. On Hohe Strasse and its surrounding streets.” but Echt Kölnisch Wasser (the original eau de Cologne) remains the official designation of origin for the distinctive toilet waters created in the city of Cologne. you find all the major international designer-clothing boutiques. fine jewelry. German. Ehrenstrasse 104. also lived and worked in this house at no. Breite Strasse 93. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). Apostelnstrasse 21 (% 0221/257-0108). To find out what’s going on in the city. fine leather bags and purses. The street number eventually became the trademark name for their product. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).de. the main north–south street in Roman times. pick up a copy of Monats Vorschau (1. Shopping in Cologne The first Füssgänger (pedestrians-only) shopping zones in Germany originated in Cologne and present a seemingly endless and interconnected conglomeration of shops and shopping arcades. snack shops. organ grinders. Discovering nightlife in Cologne One of Germany’s major cultural centers. The Mühlens family. fruit sellers. is now Cologne’s busiest commercial drag. Roncalliplatz 4. .koelnticket. and the big department stores.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 379 Cologne from Cologne: No. musicians. Glockengasse 4711 (% 0221/925-0450. 4711 Haus. and French. You can buy 4711 cologne in all sizes and shapes.50€/$2) at newsstands). You can purchase tickets at a venue’s box office (Kasse) or at Köln MusikTicket. Hohe Strasse. 4711. jammed every day except Sunday with shoppers. 4711 Any kind of toilet water is now called “eau de Cologne. as soap. another early producer of Kölnisch Wasser. stores selling silver. stocks a large selection of art postcards and greeting cards. and Filz Gnoss. and even as premoistened towelettes.25). carries a huge selection of umbrellas. and Italian designer shoes.” or simply “cologne. www. and endless stores.

Dance programs also take place here. a gay leather bar in the Marienplatz area. open from 10 p. is best on Sunday. Apostelnstrasse 11 (% 0221/254-433. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). is the Rhineland’s leading opera house.buehnenkoeln. a good gay bar for men and women. Jazz clubs Klimperkasten (also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon). completed in the late 1980s. according to the event.m. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). Offenbachplatz (% 0221/22128400. to 1 a. The Schauspielhaus.m. Buttermarkt 37 (% 0221/257-7931. Alter Markt 50–52 (% 0221/258-2132. Recorded music alternates with live acts. is a combination disco–concert hall housed within a former electrical power plant.m.m. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). Stephansstrasse 4 (% 0221/238-730. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). The most sophisticated rendezvous for gays and lesbians in Cologne is Gloria. Zulpicher Strasse 10 (% 0221/170-2764. is a small and intimate jazz and piano bar with live music every night beginning around 8 p. to 1 a. U-Bahn: Zulpicherplatz).m. www. each with its own performances and schedules. is the site of three open Sunday to Thursday from 9 a. and . to 2 or 3 a. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1 (% 0221/2801. Dance clubs Tickets range from 11€ to 100€ ($14–$125). Ticket prices vary. on the weekend.m. The bar is open daily from noon to midnight during the week and from 11 a. Quo Vadis Pub. is near Marienplatz at Pipinstrasse 7 (% 0221/258-1414. U-Bahn: Keupstrasse). www.380 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Performing arts The Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. Gay and lesbian bars Chains. with a cover of 4€ to 10€ ($5–$13). to 3 a. Friday and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 3 a. The hall also presents pop and jazz programs.m. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). is the home of two fine orchestras: the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra). anywhere from 8€ to 80€ ($10–$100).m.m. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/8400. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). U-Bahn: Neumarkt).m. Schanzenstrasse 28 (% 0221/962-790. Live bands and DJs play for dancers at MTC. Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera).koelner-philharmonie.m. Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal. E-Werk is open every Friday and Saturday night at 10 p.. is open from 10 p. when the music begins at 3:30 p.

you can enjoy a trip on the river aboard one of the many local and 9:45 a. Altstadt Päffgen.m. Purchase. Winding through the steep slopes of the Eifel and . with the legendary Lorelei rock and many hilltop castles. or visit the company’s Web site at www..m. also serves the local beer.m.m.m.m. Friesenstrasse 64–66 (% 0221/135-461. Seating is available indoors and out. a short walk south from the cathedral.m. southwest of Cologne.. take one of KD’s daylong cruises between Mainz and Koblenz. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. represented in North America by JFO Cruise€ ($12). is a scenic winegrowing region like the nearby Rheingau (see the “Sampling the wines of Rheingau” sidebar in this chapter). a 110-year-old tavern. The KD ticket booth and boarding point is right on the river. to midnight.m. and 6 p. The club doesn’t charge a cover. U-Bahn: Friesenplatz). serves its Kölsch brand of beer.k-d. KD (Köln–Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt). Taverns Päffgen Bräuhaus.m. www. offers boat tours of the Rhine from Cologne.. The tavern is open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to midnight. and 8:20 p. Frankenwerft 15 (% 0221/208-8318.m. The tavern is open daily from 10 a. The round-trip cost is 46€ ($57). The cost is 6.. 2 p. If you want to see the most scenic stretch of the Rhine. the cost is 9. and returning at 7:20 p. NY 10577 (% 800/346-6525).m. The tour departs daily at 10:30 a. with German dishes. The one-hour Panorama Rundfahrt (round-trip) is a pleasant way to see the stretch of Rhine immediately around Cologne. Beautiful Scenery The Mosel Valley. along with regional cuisine. Kölsch. The Mosel Valley: Great Wines.50).m. For more information on Rhine River cruises. rivercruises. lasts until 1 a. Heumarkt 62 (% 0221/257-7765. and returns at 5:45 p. The club is also open for live jazz Monday to Saturday from 7 p. Prerecorded commentary in English plays on both of these sightseeing cruises.m. A daily Nachmittags (afternoon) cruise with Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) leaves at 3:30 p.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 381 Cruises along the Rhine Cologne is a major embarkation point for Rhine cruises. Even if you don’t have time for a long Rhine cruise.80€ ($8. departing Mainz daily at 8:45 a. noon. 2500 Westchester Ave. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). to 2 a.

k-d. (See “The Mosel Valley” map in this chapter. The castle. and arrive in Cochem at 3 p. The round-trip fare is 22€ ($28). The A49 Autobahn runs between Koblenz and Trier. a medieval riverside town surrounded by vineyards.m.m.m. and Sunday in July and August from 9 a. 51km (32 miles) southwest of Koblenz. the most famous and photographed sight along the Mosel River.cochem. contact the Cochem tourist information office.m. a restored 11th-century castle at the top of the hill behind the town. Touring the valley by boat or car If you’re headquartering in Cologne and want to enjoy a boat cruise down the Mosel River.m.50) for adults and 2.. fine wine. The office also is open Saturday from May through August from 9 a.) The valley encompasses thousands of acres of vineyards.m. to 6 p. boats depart daily from Koblenz at 9:45 a. Cochem is a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals.m. a boat operated by KD (% 0221/20881. to 5 p. From late April to late October. Its beautiful scenery. a full 10 percent of the national sails down the Mosel to Cochem. You can also reach Cochem by train from either of those cities. The tourist information office. where the waters flow into the Rhine. From there.m.m. and Friday 9 a.m. Stopping in Cochem About halfway down the Mosel River from Koblenz is Cochem. medieval castles.m. Monday through Thursday 9 a.m. is open daily mid-March to November 9 a. is open November through March. the prettier A53 runs alongside the Mosel between Zell and Schweich. the Mosel Valley follows the course of the Mosel River (spelled Moselle in English) for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. and 2 to 5 p. to noon.382 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hunsruck hills in the German state of Rheinland-Palatinate. Roman ruins. Admission is 4.50€ ($3) for children and students. begins the first week of June. . Endertplatz 1 (% 0267/ For information. Monday through Friday 9 a. arriving in Koblenz at 8 p. to 6 p.m.m. The similar Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. to 1 p.. to 5 p. the easiest way is to take a train to Koblenz. Cochem is your best choice for an overnight stopover between Koblenz and Trier. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and halftimbered houses make the Mosel Valley a prime area for exploration.50€ ($5. www. www. Cochem’s biggest attraction is Reichsburg Cochem (% 02671/255). If you’re driving through the Mosel Valley.m.m. celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. A return boat departs at 3:40 p. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). April through October.

and Visa are accepted. Diners Club. For a fine meal. buffet breakfast included. A creaking wooden staircase (you can also take the elevator) leads to most of the 35 rooms. . drive to Enterttal. Main courses range from 15€ to 25€ ($19–$31).6km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. A few of the rooms have four-poster beds. and dine at Weissmühle im Enterttal. Try the trademark dish of fresh trout stuffed with herbs. and 6 to 9 p. originally built in 1332. added a modern wing and became a hotel in 1960. The restaurant is open daily from noon to 2 p. Alte Thorschenke.m. 56812 Cochem (% 02671/7059. The half-timbered structure. MasterCard. Rack rates range from 77€ to 115€ ($96–$144) for a double. and kept warm at your table with a hot stone. Endertstrasse 1 (% 02671/8955). all contain shower-tub combinations.m.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 383 The Mosel Valley A61 Nürburg E RM Cologne 410 E31 AN Y Mendig Mayen Koblenz A48 E44 Berlin A1 G Area of Detail Gerolstein 410 Kelburg Daun A48 E44 Lahnstein Kaiseresch Burg Eltz Alken 49 Boppard Ulmen 257 Mosel Moselkern 327 A61 Cochem A1 49 Meisburg Beilstein Senheim Bullay E31 Alf Marienburg A60 53 Wittlich Bitburg 51 Zell Traben-Trarbach Simmern M osel Bernkastel-Kues 269 421 Gemünden XEM– EM URG RG E44 327 Morbach 269 0 10 mi Kirn 0 10 km 41 N Trier A1 Idar-Oberstein 270 41 420 Both a hotel and a wine restaurant. fax: 02671/4202). Brückenstrasse 3. baked. All major credit cards are accepted. 1.

The wind-sheltered southern slopes of the Taunus range. Vineyards have produced wine here since Roman times. and festivals. Eighty percent of this wine comes from the Riesling grape. If you take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz (see the “Cruises along the Rhine” sidebar in this chapter). on the river’s northern bank. the Rheingau’s unofficial capital. the B42 highway runs beside the river between Boppard and Eltville. is like a northern extension of Italy. 367) follows a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine west of Wiesbaden to the attractive Rhine-side town of Bingen. conditions the Romans recognized as perfect for grape-growing. and wine fans consider Rheingau Rieslings to be among the best white wines made anywhere. . traditions. and other fruit trees and its sheltered sunny slopes covered with vineyards. cherry. The Rheingau wine grapes produce a delicately fruity wine with a full aroma.384 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Sampling the wines of Rheingau The Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. get plenty of sunshine and comparatively little rain. you sail through this scenic winegrowing region. fig. If you’re driving. with its almond. This part of the Rhineland not only turns out fine wines but has been fundamentally formed by the culture of wine. as reflected in its economy. The Rheingau wine district (see “The Rhineland” map p.

the city is a tourist destination with fine museums and art collections. But Frankfurt is first and foremost a modern. a small portion of Frankfurt’s Altstadt (Old Town) was lovingly rebuilt. Frankfurt definitely focuses on business. Germany’s central bank.) Frankfurt has been a major banking city since the Rothschilds opened their first bank here more than 200 years ago. a fact that helps account for all those designer skyscrapers (more than in any other German city. many travelers get their first introduction to Germany in this city. The best known is the International Book Fair. Frankfurt is the financial center not only of Germany but also of the entire European Union (EU). and including the tallest building in Europe). At last count. Leveled during Allied bombing raids in World War II (WWII). The huge symbol that stands on Willy-Brandt-Platz in front of the new opera house can be regarded as the city’s logo. Nearly 40. .Chapter 20 Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Frankfurt ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Strolling through the Altstadt ᮣ Discovering Apfelwein. cosmopolitan city. Because the Frankfurt airport serves as the country’s main international hub. and sometimes called “Mainhattan” because of its skyscraper-studded skyline. nearly 450 banks maintained headquarters here. home of the Bundesbank. A very strong American presence exists in this city on the Main. great shopping. a rich cultural life.000 American soldiers were stationed in Frankfurt until 1990. Besides being a muchvisited business center. and more L ocated on the River Main. and the Central Bank of the EU. and a lively nightlife. Millions of visitors descend on the city during its trade shows in spring and autumn. Today. the most important meeting place in the world for the acquisition and sale of book rights and translations. (See the “Frankfurt am Main” map in this chapter. Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city. cabaret.

HAUPTWACHE hst oc U Börse Gr. ka i ai n MUSEUMSUFER Sch s Leu ch ne r te 17 16 Un rm M ha GUTLEUTVIERTEL t t s leu ai nk ai um 15 n ai B 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters 13 U N Ke i Information S-Bahn U-Bahn Station Güterbahnhof Oppenheim nn ed ya lle e Gu t er Fran z St HOLZHAUSENSTRASSE r. s se All ee U Mique l e alle er S tra GRÜNEBURG PARK Holzh rass e ausen str. U Kais er chen Mun tr. Zeil TAUNUSANLANGE U J 7 u n g hof An der Hauptwache Ne ue MESSE W Güterplatz Goetheplatz 8 9 9 Str./ADICKESALLEE Berlin M i q u e l a ll e e U A di e c k e s A l le ene Eyss Ha nsa GERMANY ckst Frankfurt am Main Munich C ro n ste tten str. ss Willy-BrandtPlatz U THEATERPLATZ i s tr. BH ocke nhe imer str.386 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankfurt am Main Hamburg MIQ. Beethove nstr. Ar n HAUPTBAHNHOF in Ma ze a rL nd . berge st angg Wo l f Gr ün ebu rg w eg urgstr. Wolfg angst tra sse U Ba us GRÜNEBURGWEG 1 WESTEND Bock enh ei m er L and 3 str a ss e r. ers Str. R r. fenstr Gärtnerweg ESCHENHEIMER TOR Rothschild’s Rothschild Park Alte Oper An l . r. Senck Linde B o c k e nh e i m er lsso nde Me dts tr. U 5 6 2 Guiollett str. ayer st Stau . nstr. ke st r a l l ee ss e ra Grüneburgweg Siesn Feld bur gstr. Ma inz Str. University enberg nstr. Lei Fa pzi üc lk B re m g er e anlag Schumannstr. str nu Tau tr. 4 r. ner erli bach B r au 10 12 11 es ten ds tra sse er Un te r ma inb r. we ize rP l. Fri ed se ras Sc 14 e U en sb rü ck SCHWEIZERPLATZ . Freidb nFurste rstr.

ch ild Al GLAUBERGSTRASSE lee rg L a n d strasse al ee Se b ck ac he BORNHEIM MITTE U rs be l Saa HÖHENSTRASSE U Bornheimer Gü BORNHEIM lbu he nt d b e rger Bu s rg tr. Obermainkai nem str. Heinrich-HoffmanMuseum 3 Historisches Museum 10 Kaiserdom 20 Liebieghaus 14 Main Tower 7 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 18 Museum für Moderne Kunst 21 Römer and Römerberg 22 Städelsches Kunstinstitut/ Städtische Galerie 15 Struwwelpeter-Museum 19 Os t L a n d s t r a ss e U Hö he MARIANPLATZ W ald sc n Ha rg A lle e bs bu rg er Landwehr Al W Ha bs bu r he ac e sb Alle e t it lee Bu rg . Parad iesga Se eh o sse de ls w . as Ro ths rL d an str as se ACCOMMODATIONS M Der Messe 2 An Hilton Frankfurt 5 Hotel am Dom 26 Hotel Robert Mayer 1 Hotelschiff Peter Schlott 13 str er rg Bu Mozart 4 Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof 9 se rtm an -Ib ac hs tr. p k ar str as se Anla Floberb rücke ge erm Ob n a n lage ds t ainbr. a W S Gr. Rit te r gasse SACHSENHAUSEN Da rm s t ä d ter Landstrass e W en ai i Oste ndst rasse ra sse n So Oskar-v. Palastbar. and Tiger-Bistrot 24 Weinhaus Brückenkeller 23 Deutsches Architektur Museum 16 Deutsches Filmmuseum 17 Eschenheimer Tor 6 Eschenheimer Turm 6 Goethe-Haus S tralenberge 8 r str. ss e DINING eg Exedra 25 Haus Wertheym 12 Konditoriei Hollhorst 11 Main Tower Restaurant & Bar 7 Restaurant Français 9 Tiger Restaurant.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 387 Nib U ADICKES/ NIBELUNGENALLE elun E c k enh ei m gen Alle e Ha NORDEND U Neuh ofstr.-Miller Str. Zoo rte n Rö db urg w. str Bethmann’s Bethmann Park Se Fr OSTEND all ee rg hm er idts t r. ann OSTHAFEN ATTRACTIONS Deutsch herr nufe Main r fs tra G erb ermühl str. Fri e MUSTERSCHULE U E sc he n m hei er VILBELER S./ ALTE GASSE U ie ile db r erg 25 stra er sse KONSTABLERWACHE 24 RathenauU Zeil platz Am T ie Lan r ga A LT S TA D T RÖMER 21 U B a tto n n stra sse se s t ra s 19 20 22 Ma i n K a i EisernerSteg ckWe r k t ma 26 Schöne Au ssicht 23 Oberm 18 Sach s e n h ä u s e r U fer olb rK lte tr.

Privately operated currency exchanges (Travelex is one) and ATMs are also there. to 11:30 p. including the trip from the airport). lies 11km (7 miles) from the city center. frankfurt-airport. check when you purchase your ticket. . rail lines. open daily from 6 a. Terminal 1. Platform 1. a bus terminal. Level 0 (% 069/691-844). and Washington. Europe’s busiest airport and Germany’s major international gateway. Some airlines offer special shuttle-bus services to Frankfurt from the airport. Dresdner Bank.m. and several carrental Chicago. Philadelphia. You find bus stops in front of Terminal 1 on the arrivals level and in front of Terminal 2 on Level 2. Terminal 1 handles most European flights. in which you find many banks (Commerz Bank. By plane The city’s airport. They are marked: Einzelfahrt Frankfurt (single ticket to Frankfurt) and Tageskarte Frankfurt inkl.C.25). D. These two S-Bahn lines take you to Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) in about ten minutes. Toronto. Denver. S8 and S9 trains (direction Offenbach or Hanau) to Frankfurt’s city center depart about every ten minutes from the regional train station. Dallas. www. Taking the train into the city The simplest method for getting into the city from the airport is by train. The long-distance AIRail Terminal links the airport to cities throughout Germany and neighboring countries. and air corridors lead to Frankfurt. and Finanz Bank) with currency exchange windows. A people-mover system (called Sky Line) links the two airport terminals. SEB Bank. Detroit. Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (% 069/6901. Flughafen (a reduced-price one-day transportation ticket within Frankfurt. this airport serves more than 110 countries worldwide. (RMV are the initials of the public transportation authority. Hopping a bus into the city If you want to travel to the city center by bus. Montreal. you have many options from which to choose.) The RMV ticket machines have special fast-selection buttons for the S-Bahn journey to Frankfurt. Portland (Oregon). with direct flights from many U. A one-way ticket costs 5€ ($6.388 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting There All roads. New York. and Canadian cities. Miami.S. including Atlanta. Newark. Pittsburgh. Terminal 2 handles international flights. Boston. Regional and local trains operate from the Regional Station directly below Terminal 1. If you fly into Germany from outside of Europe. Tickets are available from the RMV ticket machines (with English translations) at the regional station and at the Deutsche Bahn (DB) Travel Center. chances are you’ll land at the city’s airport. The airport has two railway stations.m.

or Inner City. to 9 p. You find currency-exchange windows and bank ATMs in the station. opposite the main entrance of the train station (% 069/2123-8800. is a residential and embassy quarter. restaurants.m. You find most of the historic sights and several museums in the Altstadt on the north bank. and nightlife. By car The A3 and A5 autobahns intersect near Frankfurt’s airport. Switzerland. Cologne. The A5 comes from the northeast (Hannover) and continues south to Heidelberg and Basel. It was the only part of Frankfurt that was not destroyed during the WWII Allied bombing of the city. .m.m. Finding Information After You Arrive You find tourist information in two locations: ߜ Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. Römerberg 27 (% 069/2123-8800). west of the Altstadt. the A60 connects with the A66. to 6 p. For travel information. and Saturday and Sunday 9 a. including schedules and fares. The exclusive Westend district.50€ ($3.m. is open Monday to Friday from 8 a. which leads to Frankfurt. From the west. The huge. is open Monday to Friday 8 a. www. Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt The River Main divides Frankfurt. By train Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof is the busiest train station in Europe.m.bahn. modern Frankfurt Messe (trade-fair convention center) is considered part of the Westend. de). and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. Nürnberg.m.. The A3 comes in from the Netherlands. ߜ Tourist Information Römer. in the Altstadt. This office offers a hotel-booking service for 2.10). to 9 p.m.frankfurt-tourismus.m. to 5:30 p. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. and Bonn and continues east and south to Würzburg.m.m..Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 389 Catching a cab into the city A taxi ride from the airport to the city center costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 20 minutes. Concentrated in the city center around the Altstadt are hotels..m. The Altstadt contains an even older section referred to as the Innenstadt. opposite the main entrance (% 069/2123-8800). to 6 p. Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. with connections to all major German and European cities. to 4 p. www. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. Taxis are available in front of the terminals.

is the site of many prominent museums. you may be fined 30€ ($37) on the spot. You have a choice of streets heading east to the Altstadt: Münchner Strasse leads directly into Theaterplatz. on foot. Museumsufer. Purchase your tickets (Fahrscheine) at ticket counters or from the coinoperated machines found in U-Bahn stations and next to tram and bus stops. www. Two special tickets help you save money on public transportat