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by Donald Olson

Germany For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http:// Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. . All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2007925980 ISBN: 978-0-470-08956-9 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the Author
Novelist, playwright, and travel writer Donald Olson is the author of the award-winning England For Dummies, London For Dummies, Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London, and Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria. Under the pen name Swan Adamson he has written the novels My Three Husbands — now translated into four languages — and Confessions of a Pregnant Princess (both published by Kensington, New York), as well as Memoirs Are Made of This (Hodder Headline, London). Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, National Geographic Books, and many other publications.

To Gary Larson, with thanks for his help in Germany and with life in general.

Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank RailEurope for its generous assistance.

Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Lindsay Conner, Production Editor; Amy Lyons, Development Editor Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Editorial Assistant: Melinda Quintero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard J. Pacifico Cover Photos: Front: Bavaria, Ramsau © Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Getty Images Back: © Frank Rothe/Getty Images Cartoons: Rich Tennant ( Composition Services Project Coordinator: Lynsey Osborn Layout and Graphics: Claudia Bell, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie D. Jumper, Melanee Prendergast Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: Aptara, David Faust, Cynthia Fields, Melanie Hoffman, Todd Lothery, Charles Spencer Indexer: Aptara

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a Glance
Introduction .......................................................1 Part I: Introducing Germany................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ....................................15 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..............................25 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ..............39

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ..............49
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................51 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ......................................................63 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ............................................71 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................82 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ......................90 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ......................99

Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........109
Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin ..................................................111 Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin........................................................139 Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North ................................................175 Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East....................................................................207

Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..........243
Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit ..........................245 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria................................................284 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights ....................................................311 Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers ................................................................337 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ................365 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros ..........385

Part V: The Part of Tens ..................................409
Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons......................411 Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ..............................415 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............420

Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................423 Index .............................................................433


.........................................................................................................351 Nuremberg.............211 The Zwinger...........................................................................................271 The Residenz..............................287 Würzburg .......................................................................................................181 Bremen..........................................................................227 Weimar ....................................................................................................................................................................254 Central Munich Attractions...................................................195 Lübeck .................................................................................................................235 Munich Neighborhoods ..................................339 Stuttgart .......................................................................................291 Augsburg ............................127 Tiergarten-Area Attractions ...................................................................................................................................................................321 Baden-Baden ......................................................................................................................................................143 Charlottenburg Attractions ..........268 Deutsches Museum ...............................................................355 The Rhineland ..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................199 Saxony and Thuringia ..............................369 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn .....248 Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn ...329 Heidelberg ...............................................................................................................................................................................................................295 Füssen ...................................................................................................................................323 Freiburg .....................................................................................................................................................................................................313 Lindau .........................124 Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining .................................209 Dresden ........................303 Garmisch-Partenkirchen .116 Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining ....................................................................................................................................................................................349 Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn.386 Frankfurt U-Bahn and S-Bahn .................................................................................27 Berlin Neighborhoods ...............169 Hamburg .........221 Leipzig .........................................................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber .............................................................................................................307 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ...................................................................................................................................................................145 Berlin-Mitte Attractions ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................371 The Mosel Valley.........................391 ......................................................275 The Romantic Road ................................................Maps at a Glance The Regions in Brief ................................................................................................147 Potsdam ............................................................................................................367 Cologne .............176 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn ..........................315 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) ............251 Central Munich Accommodations and Dining .................................................................225 Leipzig S-Bahn ......................................................................................................................................................................................383 Frankfurt am Main .................................


.......30 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons ........................................................................................................11 Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces.....1 About This Book.....................4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ......................................... and Ballet.................................................... Opera........................................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany .......................................................3 How This Book Is Organized...9 Discovering the Best Big German Cities.................26 Savoring southern Germany..........................23 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..........................25 Discovering northern Germany ...............................Table of Contents Introduction .............18 Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany ...............................................6 Where to Go from Here...................................15 The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History...3 Foolish Assumptions .....................................................................29 Scheduling Your Time....30 Traveling during high and low seasons .......................................19 Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies....................................28 Wending through western Germany....4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ......5 Part V: The Part of Tens ..........................13 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ...........21 Books (fiction and nonfiction) ...............................................................................................5 Icons Used in This Book........6 Part I: Introducing Germany..........................................4 Part I: Introducing Germany ...................................15 Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture ................................21 Movies ................31 .....10 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes......4 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .........................................................................................25 Going Where You Want to Be.11 Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities ........................12 Enjoying the Best in Classical Music...............................31 Watching those unpredictable skies ....................25 Exploring eastern Germany ........................................................................................................2 Conventions Used in This Book ...................................................................................

...38 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................63 Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where ................................................................................66 .........................51 Planning Your Budget ...................................................54 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun ................................................51 Transportation costs...........................................................65 Booking your flight online ...........................................................39 East Side..........58 Using ATMs and carrying cash.......................................................35 June......62 A Tip about Tipping .......................................................33 Welcoming winter ...........................................61 Taking Taxes into Account.......................63 Flying into Frankfurt ...........................45 Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers .........................59 Charging ahead with credit cards............................................................................................................................................36 September................................................... 3rd Edition Blossoming in spring ...37 December..............49 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ..............36 August ..41 Discovering Germany with Kids...................33 Glowing in autumn..........................................57 Handling Money ...................................................................59 Toting traveler’s checks....................................................35 February.........35 January.....................................................................39 Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week.......................................60 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet ......................................................64 Getting the best airfare ................................37 November ............................63 Flying into other German airports.......................................................................................................................32 Shining (and raining) in summer .....................................................................................................................................................35 May ..51 Lodging expenses ...............62 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ..............................54 Shopping and nightlife costs ................... West Side: Germany in Two Weeks ..xii Germany For Dummies.............................34 Perusing a Calendar of Events.....................................36 July......................47 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ...........................................................53 Sightseeing expenses ....................................37 October ..........................................................................

........................86 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate..................77 Taking the roads less traveled ........................................................74 Reserving your seat.76 Touring by Car: Autobahns.................................................................................................................................85 Pensions........................................................69 Locating airline and hotel packages......90 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families .........................85 Guesthouses ...........79 Handling a roadside emergency.86 Surfing the Web for hotel deals...................... Tankstellen........................................................83 Luxury hotels .........................74 Getting off on the right track.......................................................................................................... and Benzin........................70 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ..................................................82 Finding the Place That’s Right for You ...80 Sailing through Germany: River Cruises ..........72 Following basic training ........................................................... bitte (please)...........................................................................................................80 Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? ...........................................90 Locating family-friendly businesses ..................................................75 Saving time and euros with rail passes....................................................................................................75 German rail passes: For Deutschland only...84 Boutique hotels...................Table of Contents xiii Arriving by Other Means............................................91 Hiring a baby sitter in Germany........87 Reserving the best room..71 Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go........67 Traveling by train ....72 Heading to the Hauptbahnhof..........................................................67 Arriving by boat ....69 Choosing a package tour ......80 Fill ’er up...............76 Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe .............................84 Chain hotels.....................................................78 Following the rules of the road .............................................................89 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ..92 ............................67 Joining an Escorted Tour ............................................................77 Renting a car in Germany ..............................................................71 Weighing the Options: Train or Car? .....................84 Smaller independent hotels..............81 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ..........................................................68 Tour operators in the United States........................92 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors ................................................................

94 Locating resources ...........100 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance .115 Introducing western Berlin..........96 Celebrating gay pride in Germany .............................................................................................................103 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail.................................99 Getting a Passport...97 Researching German lesbigay life on the Web .................... bus..........................................................................................................................................95 Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians ........................................................................................94 Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair).....................................98 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details.........105 Going Wireless.....................................................................119 Getting Around Berlin.........123 The top hotels ..............................................................................................107 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........................114 Finding Information After You Arrive ..........99 Applying for a U..........123 Runner-up hotels .....................109 Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin.............S.. S-Bahn.....S.................112 By plane ................................................130 ........................120 Going public: U-Bahn........... ......................................120 Taking a taxi.......................................97 Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany................................................96 Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators...122 Staying in Style ..............................................................99 Applying for other passports .....................................................................104 Accessing the Internet away from home ...........................................................113 By car .....115 Orienting Yourself in Berlin ........122 Driving a car ........115 Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) .................................................. passport...104 Using a cellphone outside the U...101 Staying Healthy When You Travel....................................xiv Germany For Dummies..............106 Keeping Up with Airline Security ...................112 By train.............................................................111 Getting There........................................................ and Strassenbahn .................................................................................................................................................. 3rd Edition Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities ...............................113 Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof.....

..................................... Bremen...............................................................................................................................................172 Chapter 13: Hamburg.............................................................................................168 Getting there............................................................................159 Shopping in western Berlin ..............................................162 Discovering Nightlife in Berlin...............................................................Table of Contents Dining Out ...................137 xv Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin ...................163 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music.................159 If you have three days in Berlin ..................................187 ..............159 Shopping for Local Treasures.................................................................................................................. and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North......182 Dining in Hamburg ...........160 Shopping in eastern Berlin ...................................170 Dining at Sanssouci..............157 Walking tours.............................................................153 Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour..............175 Getting there.......................179 Orienting yourself ........................................................................184 Exploring Hamburg....................169 Finding tourist information .......................157 Bus tours.........162 Finding out what’s happening ..........................................132 The top restaurants.....................................................................................................................178 Finding information ............139 Sightseeing in Berlin .........................................158 Boat tours ..............................................................133 The best cafes ..180 Staying in Hamburg .....159 If you have two days in Berlin .163 Getting tickets ......................158 If you have one day in Berlin..................................................................165 Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci ....................................................................139 Saving money with a museum pass...158 Following an Itinerary.....................................140 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .................................................................................................179 Taking a bus tour ...................................................................................179 Getting around Hamburg ...................163 Checking out the dance clubs and bars.......................................141 Finding more cool things to see and do................................................171 Fast Facts: Berlin .......................170 Discovering the top attractions .......................................................................175 Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World ..................

....................................................................................................................................................................................................194 Exploring Bremen ...................223 Getting there.202 Walking through Lübeck ...................................222 Leipzig: City of Heroes.....................200 Orienting yourself ......................................201 Staying in Lübeck.................194 Dining in Bremen..................................................................................................................................... and Weimar: Jewels of the East......xvi Germany For Dummies......................................233 Getting there.....................226 Getting around Leipzig ...............................................217 Shopping in Dresden .........240 ....200 Finding information and taking a walking tour ...............................................................233 Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment..................198 Getting there.............234 Staying in Weimar .................191 Living it up after dark in Hamburg..............................226 Staying in Leipzig ................................................................232 Discovering nightlife in Leipzig..........210 Orienting yourself ..............214 Exploring Dresden ........229 Shopping in Leipzig ........................................................................221 Discovering nightlife in Dresden.........................................196 Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own ........................212 Dining in Dresden............226 Dining in Leipzig.............................228 Exploring Leipzig ....................................234 Dining in Weimar.............201 Getting around Lübeck.......234 Finding information and taking a tour ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................208 Finding information ............................................191 A Side Trip: Bremen .....................................................................................194 Finding information and taking a tour ...............................................236 Exploring Weimar....207 Dresden: Florence on the Elbe ......................................................................212 Staying in Dresden ........................................................................................ Leipzig.............224 Finding information and taking a tour ..207 Getting there.....210 Getting around Dresden..............................................................237 Exploring the Thuringian Forest ................................194 Getting to Bremen........................201 Dining in Lübeck ...210 Seeing Dresden by guided tour ...................................................203 Chapter 14: Dresden... 3rd Edition Shopping in Hamburg..........

..247 Finding Information After You Arrive .......250 Using public transportation ..............286 Finding information ...............................................................................................................243 Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit..........................................291 Finding information .......................................................................245 Getting There.......................278 Shopping for Local Treasures...................Table of Contents xvii Shopping in Weimar..............................................................................................246 By train.......258 Dining Out ..............................................252 Staying in Style ........................................................................281 Fast Facts: Munich ........................................................286 Exploring Würzburg..........................286 Dining in Würzburg................................................241 Discovering nightlife in Weimar ....................................267 Finding more cool things to see and do.285 Würzburg: Franconian Fortress.................................292 ...........282 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria ............................................288 Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg ..........................260 The best beer gardens .......................................................285 Getting there.......................................247 Getting Around Munich .................................290 Getting there....................................................................................259 The top restaurants.........................281 Checking out bars and clubs .................................................................................................247 Orienting Yourself in Munich..................................................................................................................................266 Sightseeing in Munich ..........................................281 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music.........................................................................................................................................280 Discovering Nightlife in Munich......................................246 By car ...........................289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories ...............250 Catching a cab......................................................................252 Runner-up hotels ..................252 The top hotels ..............................284 The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria .....................................................................................................277 Seeing Munich by Guided Tour ..........................................267 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .........................286 Staying in Würzburg ..........246 By plane ......241 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany.........

...302 Getting there...322 Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books.......................................................................... 3rd Edition Staying in Rothenburg...299 Exploring Neuschwanstein ....306 Ascending the Zugspitze...294 Getting there................................................................297 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air ..................................305 Finding information .................................308 A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles.......................304 Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze..............................................................................................306 Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen ..........................................................................305 Getting there....302 Finding information ..................................294 Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg....................xviii Germany For Dummies......................................312 Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau ...........305 Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen...................................308 Discovering the local nightlife .......................309 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights..............................................302 Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road ..................................296 Dining in Augsburg ..................................299 Finding information and buying tickets .....................................292 Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber ...............320 Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town ..299 Exploring Hohenschwangau............................300 Dining near the castles................................................................................302 Staying in Füssen ....................295 Finding information and taking a tour ...............................................................................293 Shopping in Rothenburg ................................294 Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance............................................................................................318 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest)...........311 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ...............305 Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen .........................................................................................................................................304 Exploring Füssen.....299 Getting there......................................................................................................305 Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen.........302 Dining in Füssen .............................296 Staying in Augsburg..................................................311 Lindau: Sunny island charmer .................292 Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber....328 ...296 Exploring Augsburg ..................................................

.................375 Shopping in Cologne.......................................................................................................................356 Orienting yourself ....................................................................................................344 Shopping in Heidelberg....... and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers.....................Table of Contents xix Chapter 18: Heidelberg.......................................368 Getting around .......337 Getting there.......................................................................................................................................................................................356 Getting around Nuremberg...................................................350 Finding information and taking a tour ...............................................................................................................350 Exploring Stuttgart ..........................337 Heidelberg: Romance on the River ..............................353 Shopping in Stuttgart ...................354 Getting there..........................................................350 Stuttgart performing arts...............................................................................................................357 Dining in Nuremberg ......................................................340 Dining in Heidelberg ........................................................366 Getting there...........................................................................379 Discovering nightlife in Cologne ....370 Dining in Cologne. Stuttgart.....348 Getting to Stuttgart.........................................................................342 Exploring Heidelberg.350 Dining in Stuttgart........................................338 Finding information ................................................368 Staying in Cologne .............................358 Exploring Nuremberg ........................................................................354 Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth......................360 Shopping in Nuremberg .................................................................368 Getting oriented ......365 Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine ...................................................372 Exploring Cologne.........................................................................................................347 Living it up after dark in Heidelberg..........................356 Staying in Nuremberg ............363 Living it up after dark in Nuremberg .................347 A Side Trip to Stuttgart..........................340 Staying in Heidelberg.................................340 Getting around Heidelberg .............................................338 Orienting yourself ...379 .........338 Taking a guided tour....355 Finding information and taking a tour ...........................363 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ...366 Finding information .......

..........414 ....................................................................413 Time ...................................................389 Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt.............392 Staying in Style ..411 Accommodations ..................413 Warning Signs ............................................................................xx Germany For Dummies...........................................................................403 Porcelain ...............................406 Fast Facts: Frankfurt .........................388 By train...............390 Taking a taxi..............382 Stopping in Cochem ...................................................411 Basic Words and Phrases......................................................................................................................407 Part V: The Part of Tens ...............................................397 Walking through the city............381 Touring the valley by boat or car ............................................413 Seasons and Elements ................................... Beautiful Scenery .......................................................................392 Dining Out .................389 By car ...................................394 Sightseeing in Frankfurt ......................................................................385 Getting There..................................................................405 Having fun at a cabaret ............389 Getting Around Frankfurt..................412 Directions................................................................................................398 Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour ......................................................................................405 Raising the curtain on the performing arts ............406 Checking out bars and clubs ....................................................................................412 Colors ...............................................389 Finding Information After You Arrive .388 By plane .............................405 Discovering Nightlife in Frankfurt...............................................413 Transportation ...................................................................................................................... 3rd Edition The Mosel Valley: Great Wines............................382 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros..........................................403 Department stores.....................................................................403 Shopping for Local Treasures...............................................412 Numbers....................................................397 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z ............................................390 Using public transportation .................................................................................................409 Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons............................................................................................................................412 Days of the Week .....................412 Entertainment and Attractions ......................

........................................429 Surfing the Net...............................................420 Deutscher Tafelwein ........429 Contacting regional tourist boards ..........................................420 Qualitätswein...........................................................415 Der Kleine Prinz..........................................418 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München..................................................................................418 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe..................................................417 Hotel Eisenhut.......422 Eiswein ................................418 Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz...................................427 Major car-rental agencies operating in Germany..............417 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ............................................428 Where to Get More Information ...................420 Tafelwein ...........................Table of Contents xxi Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ........423 Fast Facts ...427 Major airlines serving Germany..............423 Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites ..............422 Beerenauslese....422 Trockenbeerenauslese ...... Nuremberg .........................................................................................421 Spätlese ......................................428 Major hotel chains in Germany.........................................................................................416 Hotel Adlon Kempinski............417 Kempinski Hotel Bristol.............................................................................................................420 Deutscher Landwein ..............................................................................................................433 ..................................................................................... Rothenburg ...............................................416 Excelsior Hotel Ernst..................... Cologne..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................419 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine .421 Kabinett .............. Dresden ....415 Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa......421 Prädikatswein ......... Baden-Baden..............422 Appendix: Quick Concierge ................ Heidelberg .................................... Berlin ..430 Index ........................... Berlin ....................421 Auslese ...................

xxii Germany For Dummies. 3rd Edition .

Germany stretches from the Alps in the south to Denmark and the Baltic and North seas in the north. you find a flat maritime landscape. where the peaks are tipped with snow until May. regions. where Goethe lived. Wunderbar! But what parts of Deutschland (Germany) do you want to visit? Because of this country’s many offerings. In the southwest. The sunny southwest is where you find the Bodensee. will dazzle your senses. the largest church north of the Alps. The sober brick architecture that predominates in the far north gives way to exuberant baroque churches and palaces in the south. In the north. So what cities. or Leipzig. the city where most Germans would live if they could? The great port city of Hamburg? The romantic university town of Heidelberg? Are there specific landscapes you want to see. Germany isn’t a huge country — on a superfast train you can buzz from Berlin in the north to Munich in the south in about seven hours — but exciting cities and scenic sightseeing possibilities pack the terrain.Introduction S o you’re going to Germany. or specific attractions do you want to see? Berlin. fun-loving Munich. which shares a border with France. such as the Bavarian Alps or the Rhine Valley? Did you know that one of the most beautiful scenic drives in Europe is along Germany’s aptly named Romantic Road? What castles and cathedrals would you like to visit? The fairy-tale castles built by King Ludwig of Bavaria are the most famous and popular attractions in Germany. France bounds Germany to the southwest. The sheer size of Cologne Cathedral. Belgium. one of the largest lakes in Europe. the emphasis is on fresh seafood. answering that question isn’t always easy. Drive or take the train a couple of hours east and you’re in the Bavarian Alps. Situated in the very heart of Europe. too. and the forested hills of the scenic Schwarzwald (Black Forest). with Luxembourg. every crag in the Rhine Valley seems to have its own romantic legend — or carefully tended vineyard. In the far north. French cuisine is a major part of the dining scene. the location of the country’s great ports. Regional differences also extend to food and architecture. where Bach conducted? Do you want to stroll down Frankfurt’s . near Germany’s coastline. In the west. And how about other historic sites? Do you want to visit Weimar. Every city or region has its own version of sausage and its favorite local wines and beers. the exciting capital of a reunified republic? Elegant. Dramatic regional differences exist in the German landscape. Discovering the special regional differences within Germany will help to deepen your understanding and experiences of the country. and the Netherlands to the west and the Czech Republic and Poland to the east.

Therefore. or the boring. Use Germany For Dummies as a reference guide. In this guide. you and Germany For Dummies can plan a wunderschöne Reise (wonderful journey). if you’ve already been to Germany and know the basics of international travel. you’ll find information that you’ll want to reference as you plan or enjoy your trip — whether it be a new hotel. I chose only what I consider to be the best and most essential places for visitors. purse.2 Germany For Dummies. however. and wallet. Mark these pages with the handy Post-it® Flags that are included in this book to help make your trip planning easier! . after all. You can. or a musttry walking tour. this guidebook is for you. Together. and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. as you can see. I suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. Dummies Post-it® Flags As you’re reading this book. the overrated. The author. If you’re new to this part of the world. editors. In this book. Germany. Keep a close eye on your camera. From an enormous list of possibilities. I exclude places that other. 3rd Edition Zeil. is one of the great art cities of Europe. all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. About This Book This is a selective guidebook to Germany. you can flip to the specific part you need or hone in on one specific chapter. Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time — and this is especially true of prices. But. the busiest shopping street in Germany? Are you interested in seeing eastern Germany now that the border is open between east and west? The eastern city of Dresden. so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. start at the first page and read all the way through to the end. a must-see attraction. I bypass places that are difficult to reach or of interest only to a scholar or specialist. Germany has so much that is really worth seeing that you don’t need to waste your time with the second-rate. I help you choose from among its many highlights to create the best trip for you. more exhaustive guidebooks routinely include. of course. has an embarrassment of riches. Your safety is important to us.

followed by an English translation. restaurants. . year-round) or a meal at a restaurant (appetizer. entree. lieber Leser (dear reader). attractions. The exchange rate used throughout is 1€ = $1. and then converted into dollars. and dessert). I also provide a phonetic pronunciation. I employ a system of dollar signs ($) to show a range of costs for one night in a hotel (double room. I include abbreviations for commonly accepted credit cards.Introduction 3 Conventions Used in This Book I recently tried to extract some information from a guidebook and felt that I needed training in hieroglyphics to interpret all the different symbols. the currency that replaced the Deutsche Mark in 2002. including: ߜ You may be an experienced traveler who hasn’t had much time to explore Germany and wants expert advice when you finally do get a chance to enjoy that particular locale.25. Check out the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ Hotel $125 and less $126 to $175 $176 to $225 $226 and more Restaurant $20 and less $21 to $30 $31 to $40 $41 and more Prices in this guide for hotels. and services are given in euros (€). I’m happy to report that the user-friendly Germany For Dummies is not like that. Take a look at the following list for an explanation of each: AE: American Express DC: Diners Club DISC: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa I also include some general pricing information to help you decide where to unpack your bags or dine on the local cuisine. If the word is one that you may be using. I first give the name of a sight in German. The use of symbols and abbreviations is kept to a minimum. Foolish Assumptions I make some assumptions about you. In addition to giving you exact prices.

3rd Edition ߜ You may be an inexperienced traveler (but you’re definitely not a Dummkopf) who is looking for guidance when determining whether to take a trip to Germany and how to plan for it. wine. from passports to buying medical insurance. Part I: Introducing Germany This first part introduces Germany and gives you some excellent reasons for going there. you’re looking for a book that focuses on the places that will give you the best or most unique experience in Germany. advice. provide a calendar of events. The first two parts deal with trip planning and organization. ߜ You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available about Germany or that lists every hotel. and beer. and suggestions that can help you map out a wonderful holiday. and Jewish travelers. This overview gives you the big picture. I talk about handling money and give you some sound advice on planning a realistic budget. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany All you need to know about Berlin. so if you want to zero in on a specific city or area — Munich. Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany This part helps take some of the wrinkles out of the trip-planning stage. rental car) to use to get around the country and explains what kind of accommodations you can expect for your money. I help you to understand and deepen your knowledge of the culture. tell you about German food. travelers with disabilities.4 Germany For Dummies. say. lay out your options for airlines and how to get the best airfares and book money-saving package tours. Germany’s capital and most exciting city. This part helps you to decide what form of transportation (train. and present you with some possible itineraries. restaurant. All of the parts can be read independently. and explain the kinds of guided tours that are available. Instead. is contained in this part. The next two parts of the book are devoted to the major sights and cities within northern and eastern Germany and western and southern Germany. gay and lesbian travelers. I point out the best hotels and restaurants and the top attractions to the . I also deal with pretrip loose ends. or the Romantic Road — you can turn right to that part. The individual chapters help you decide when to visit and what to see. seniors. or attraction. I provide special tips for Germany-bound travelers who may have special needs or interests: families. Along with providing a basic orientation. then Germany For Dummies gives you the information you’re looking for! How This Book Is Organized The book is broken down into five parts. If you fit any of these criteria. they provide information.

and what to see. how to get around. Germany’s “secret capital” and most popular big city. Difficult to visit during the Communist years. from designer skyscrapers and great museums to distinctive applewine taverns. including the palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam. I also include an easy trip to Nymphenburg Palace and the moving memorial at Dachau. Part V: The Part of Tens The Part of Tens enables me to focus a little more attention on extraspecial places. one of Germany’s most attractive cities. one of Germany’s principal winegrowing areas. the region’s cultural capital. and ten things to know about German wine. to the lively Rhine-side city of Cologne. a scenic driving tour that begins in Würzburg and ends at Neuschwanstein. another castle-fantasy of King Ludwig. with its world-famous cathedral and array of first-class museums. gets a chapter of its own. Sidetrip options from Cologne include boat rides down the mighty Rhine. Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Munich. . Staying south but moving west. and Weimar. From the southwest I head farther north. You find plenty to see and enjoy in “Mainhattan.” I tell you how to take a boat trip from Dresden into a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland. Northern Germany. with an additional side trip to Linderhof. a bustling city that offers an array of historic sights. is also where you find Hamburg. Leipzig. Then I tell you about side-trip options from Hamburg: Lübeck. topics. and sights I want you to know about. and Bremen. I also include a description of the memorial at Buchenwald concentration camp near Weimar and an overview of touring options in the Thuringian Forest. Frankfurt. with its castles and vineyards. and down the equally picturesque Mosel River. bordering on the North Sea and the Baltic. I provide information on how to get there. Germany’s largest port city. Stuttgart. with the busiest international airport in Germany. from the mighty harbor to the lurid Reeperbahn (where uncoverage may better describe the sights).Introduction 5 east and west and all around this remarkable city. The next chapter goes beyond Munich but stays in Bavaria. I also visit the great eastern German cities of Dresden. plus a selection of great hotels and special restaurants. gets a big chapter of its own. King Ludwig of Bavaria’s fairytale castle in the Bavarian Alps. these remarkable showcases of art and culture are now “open for business. In this part. ten great hotels. My “tens” include ten lessons on the German language. and Nuremberg. with the oldest university in Germany and the brooding ruins of a mighty castle. I hit the Hamburg highlights. Here I describe the principal cities and attractions found along the Romantic Road.” as Frankfurt is known. I cover three important cities in southwestern Germany: Heidelberg. I also introduce you to the Bavarian towns of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. a picturesque city of Gothic church spires and ancient brick buildings.

and hotel chains serving Germany. I hope you’ll think of me as your guide or companion on this journey to Germany. restaurants. and places of special interest. You can start at the beginning and read the book straight through to the end. which points out hotels. The Tip icon highlights useful bits of information that can save you time or enhance your travel experience. If you do see one. or a hazardous situation. or attractions that welcome children or that kids actually enjoy. Icons Used in This Book In the margins. of course! How you want to use this guide is up to you. like how the telephone system works and what numbers to call in an emergency. I want you to be aware of something such as a scam that can cost you money. A Tip icon alerts you to something that you may not otherwise consider or even know about. 3rd Edition Easily found on the yellow pages at the back of this book is a Quick Concierge Appendix with an A-to-Z list of fast facts. This icon points out tidbits about German culture. little pictures that point out helpful trip-planning details or items that are just for fun. I’m not an alarmist. Or you can start anywhere in between and extract information as you want or need it. too. restaurants. I’m not cheap. you also find a list of toll-free telephone numbers and Web sites for airlines. The Best of the Best icon highlights the best the destination has to offer in all categories — hotels. You see this icon every time I tell you about something that can save you cash. car-rental agencies. attractions. you find six different icons. Traveling with children? Keep your eyes peeled for this icon. Where to Go from Here To Germany. so you won’t find too many of these icons. Bargain Alert is my favorite icon. and nightlife.6 Germany For Dummies. which is sure to be wunderbar. In this appendix. personalities. and I suspect it may be yours. All this is followed by a few helpful worksheets to help make your trip planning easier. but I love to save money. as well as resources for locating additional information on specific cities or areas. . activities. shopping.

Part I Introducing Germany .

Chapter 2 helps you to understand the country and its culture by giving an overview of its history. . Chapter 1 introduces you to the best Germany has to offer — the most exciting cities. . an introduction to its architecture and cuisine. . I present four possible itineraries for visitors who want to sample a wide range of sights.W In this part . In Chapter 4. I tell you more about the places included in the book and discuss scheduling your trip so you can decide where and when to go. and a list of recommended books and movies. and the most interesting attractions. In Chapter 3. the most scenic landscapes. here to begin? This part lays the groundwork for your trip to Germany.

at the airports in Frankfurt. or Berlin. a tradition that dates back hundreds of years. not only in large cities like Berlin and Munich but also in smaller university towns like Cologne. a palace in a landscaped garden. too. and Cologne. In the categories that I outline. cake. and conversation are afternoon staples. Perhaps you. food. Some visitors come for the chance to drink fullbodied German beer. you’ll find some of the things that make traveling in Germany such a fascinating experience. Or perhaps you have an image of Germany in your mind — a castle on a hilltop. I discuss each of these places . and ballet G ermany holds a special fascination for travelers. opera. a symphony orchestra. This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the “Best of the Best” — that Germany has to offer. others come to enjoy a cosmopolitan cafe culture where coffee. Leipzig. You’ll find as many different reasons to visit Germany as there are tourists who arrive daily. and moods appeals to visitors for many different reasons. have German ancestors. Hamburg. This land of contrasting cities. During the Christmas season.Chapter 1 Discovering the Best of Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Experiencing the greatest cities ᮣ Exploring romantic landscapes ᮣ Discovering legendary castles and palaces ᮣ Visiting smaller towns and cities ᮣ Enjoying world-class classical music. and an opera house. will find that the club/bar/disco scene in Germany is hot. the main squares in Germany’s smaller cities glitter and glow with the lights. by the thousands. like millions of others. or a giant beer hall with an oom-pah-pah band — and you want to check it out for yourself. landscapes. Clubbers. and gift stalls of Christmas markets. Munich. Then there’s the culture: Every midsize-to-large German city has at least one art museum. and Heidelberg. Munich. making a visit to Germany a feast for those who enjoy world-class art and music. And don’t forget the retail: Great shopping opportunities abound year-round in Berlin. and you want to explore their home turf.

ߜ Cologne (Chapter 19). The “Queen of the North” presides over a beautiful setting on the Alster Lake but is notorious for her erotically charged entertainment district called the Reeperbahn. sophisticated. is one of the most attractive and intriguing cities in western Germany. too. you can find them in their indicated chapters. and the reconstructed Frauenkirche. great shopping. marked with — what else? — a “Best of the Best” icon. cuisine of all kinds. the Zeil. music. enormous parks and green spaces. and Rhine-side setting. Germany’s most amazing architectural reconstruction effort. first-rate museums. yields plenty of pleasant surprises. as simple or as sophisticated as you want. and its vibrant contemporaryarts scene gives it a hefty dose of sophistication. Germany’s largest city and new capital has become an international superstar. . Discovering the Best Big German Cities Germany’s top cities offer a wealth of diversions. Cologne’s carnival is the biggest and brashest in the country. you can easily reach it all by subway. and when you’re walking down Berlin’s two most famous avenues. with countless cultural diversions and a kind of urban magic that snares the hearts of millions of visitors each year. and plenty of nightlife. Germany’s third-largest city after Berlin and Munich. Berlin (Chapters 11 and 12) always has a major-league buzz.10 Part I: Introducing Germany and experiences in detail later in this book. including a fine lineup of museums and great shopping on Germany’s busiest shopping street. the riches of the Green Vault. bustling pedestrian-only quarters. The old capital of Saxony is where you find the worldfamous Zwinger palace/museum complex. and plenty of picturesque corners just waiting to be discovered. you’ll feel it. The pulse of Berlin is felt throughout Europe. The capital of Bavaria is sensuous. with its soaring cathedral. You’ll also find elegant boulevards. ߜ Hamburg (Chapter 13). ߜ Dresden (Chapter 14) reigns as the treasure house of eastern Germany. or bus. with its bevy of designer skyscrapers. You’ll find world-class museums. the Kurfürstendamm and Unter den Linden. and fun-loving. ߜ Frankfurt (Chapter 20). ߜ With its endlessly dramatic history and cache of cultural and artistic riches. when the wall separating East Germany and West Germany came down. riverside promenades. fascinating architecture. streetcar. has the liveliness and lustiness of a big port and the sophistication of a wealthy European metropolis. And thanks to Germany’s excellent public-transportation systems. ߜ Munich (Chapter 15) is a southern German city where the urban pleasures are as soft and sweet as Schlagsahne (whipped cream) on a rich slab of cake or as exuberant as an oom-pah-pah band in a giant beer hall during Oktoberfest. But since 1989.

dukes. . princes. Roman ruins. ruled over by an assortment of kings. Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces At one time. and prince-bishops. ߜ The Rheingau wine district (Chapter 19). west of Mainz and Wiesbaden. The country’s highest mountain. From the majesty of the Bavarian Alps in the south to the sandy beaches of the Baltic Sea in the north. and views of them are accessible by train.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 11 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes Landscapes of fabled beauty and scenic splendor are found throughout Germany. both great and small. has been a wine-producing region for upwards of 2. boat. and from the winegrowing Rhine Valley in the west to the high. ߜ Perhaps the most dramatic of all German landscapes is the Bavarian Alps. where rocky cliffs rise dramatically above the Elbe River. ߜ The Bodensee (Chapter 17). an enormous lake near Germany’s sunny southwestern border. and scenic lookouts. ߜ From Dresden you can easily explore a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland (Chapter 14). sheltered slopes. found along a lovely 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine. Germany was a conglomeration of regional kingdoms. the Zugspitze. the Rhine Valley (Chapter 19). ߜ The Romantic Road (Chapter 16) is the most romantic byway of all. is a scenic winegrowing region encompassing thousands of acres of vineyards. ߜ Sophisticated health spas and recreational activities abound in the forest-clad mountains of the Black Forest (Chapter 17). and vast estates. is like a northern extension of Italy. with semitropical gardens and an almost Italian languor. many of them full of art treasures. between Trier and Koblenz.000 years. from Koblenz south to Alsace. hiking trails. such as Lorelei rock. offering a remarkable medley of small medieval towns set within a gorgeous Bavarian landscape of river valley and mountain meadow. As a result. and car. Germany is loaded with a fascinating collection of castles and palaces. towers above the alpine resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Chapter 16). ߜ The Mosel Valley (Chapter 19). rocky cliffs along the Elbe in the east. ߜ With its fruit trees and vineyards growing on sunny. where you find lakes. duchies. Germany offers a wealth of sightseeing possibilities. ߜ Cruises down the mighty River Rhine (Chapter 19) take you past castle-crowned crags and legendary sights. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. medieval castles. is like a bit of the Mediterranean. and all of them open to the public.

ߜ A palace that doubled as a fortress. You do. So many architectural gems are located here that the entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a place judged . ߜ Carefully reconstructed after WWII. the Marienburg crowns the vineyard-covered slopes above Würzburg and today houses the Mainfränkische Museum (Chapter 16). and furniture. ߜ Used by the powerful prince-bishops until 1806. porcelains. many of them located less than an hour’s train ride from a major metropolis. You can easily visit Sanssouci and its beautiful grounds on a daytrip from Berlin. the Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) is famed for its superb ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo. is remarkable. the amazing Zwinger Palace in Dresden (Chapter 14) is now an unparalleled showcase for old master paintings and porcelain treasures. Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities Germany is remarkable for its attractive smaller towns and cities. Ruined castles dot the landscape of the Rhine (Chapter 19) and enhance its romantic appeal. Neuschwanstein and Linderhof (see Chapter 16 for both) are preserved almost exactly as they were during Ludwig’s lifetime. ߜ An easy daytrip from Hamburg. because it suffered almost no damage during World War II (WWII). these stately homes reveal aspects of German life and the monarchy that lasted up until 1918.12 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to several museums and staterooms that can be visited on guided tours. ߜ For sheer. ߜ For many visitors. you’ll find a very different Germany. Brimming with the flavors of the past. but it remains an impressive sight even in its semiruined state. in part. nothing can compare to the fairy-tale castles built in the 19th century by Ludwig II of Bavaria. you can easily savor them as daytrips. over-the-top opulence. ߜ Sanssouci (Chapter 12). Frederick the Great’s 18th-century rococo palace in Potsdam. lovely Lübeck (Chapter 13) epitomizes the maritime culture and redbrick architecture of northern Germany. In these historic hamlets. Heidelberg Castle (Chapter 18) suffered from war and fire. ߜ Nymphenburg Palace on the outskirts of Munich is another kingsize showplace and so is the gigantic Residenz. indeed. featuring brilliant Renaissance-era woodcarvings by Tilman Riemenschneider. ߜ Perched on its crag high above Heidelberg. scattered like gemstones around the country. find castles scattered throughout the country. With their precious paintings. the quintessential image associated with Germany is a castle on a hilltop. right in the heart of the city (see Chapter 15 for both).

The garden-island of Mainau is a short ferry ride away. ߜ Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is an important center of the German Renaissance that later became an infamous locale for huge. a major highlight along the Romantic Road. including grand opera. was a cradle of the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. ߜ Lindau (Chapter 17). with major art collections. intriguing architecture. are reasonably priced. Enjoying the Best in Classical Music. You can walk along the old city walls of this perfectly preserved gem and stroll down streets that haven’t changed much in hundreds of years. historic streets. and the second-largest beer festival after Munich. ߜ One of the most sophisticated spa towns in Europe. . Augsburg (Chapter 16) is full of historic panache and architectural surprises. and provides a glimpse into 18th-century German life and culture. This small. among others. ߜ Stuttgart (Chapter 18). in eastern Germany. ߜ Weimar (Chapter 14). a marvelous little island-city in the Bodensee (Lake Constance). including Renaissance-era palaces and the oldest almshouse in Germany. enchants visitors with its romantic setting. ߜ Located in the Bavarian Alps near Neuschwanstein Castle. and Ballet Lovers of classical music.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 13 to be of exceptional cultural value. an old university town on the Neckar River. ߜ Heidelberg (Chapter 18). unspoiled hamlet was home to Goethe and Schiller. is a walled medieval city loaded with picturesque charm. and ballet will find that Germany is a gold mine. Tickets for musical events. Opera. one of the most attractive midsize German cities. according to the United Nations agency that promotes education and the arts. Naziera rallies. opera. ߜ Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Chapter 16). Remnants and reminders from both eras are plentiful in Nuremberg. ߜ A stop on the Romantic Road or an easy daytrip from Munich. is the arts and culture capital of southwestern Germany. has a sunny. flower-filled charm that’s perfect for lazing away a day or two. and the quality of musical performance is extraordinarily high. and enormous castle. a 40-minute train ride from Heidelberg. Füssen (Chapter 16) invites you to stroll along its cobblestone streets past stone houses and a rushing mountain river. Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) offers an extraordinary range of spa treatments during the day and elegant gaming rooms at night.

conducted by Sir Simon Rattle. one of the great cultural centers of Germany. ߜ Up north. or hearing a concert by the Dresden Philharmonic. while the magnificent Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra) performs in the Philharmonic Hall. Leipzig celebrates its most famous citizen — the composer Johann Sebastian Bach. Cologne (Chapter 19) has an amazing array of musical offerings. ߜ For a city of its size. the Rhineland’s leading opera house. who lived and worked in the city for more than 40 years — with the yearly Bachfest. Hamburg (Chapter 13) plays host to the Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). . ߜ Opera Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt gives a big musical boost to Frankfurt (Chapter 20). including the famed Berlin Philharmonic. one of the world’s great opera houses. and three highly-regarded orchestras. and three opera houses that share their stages with resident ballet companies.14 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to three major symphony orchestras. but the company still performs at the State Theater. and two fine orchestras — the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker (Cologne Philharmonic) and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra) — perform in the Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. ߜ The Stuttgart Ballet in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) hit international stardom in the 1970s when John Cranko took over the company. as does the Frankfurt Philharmonic. the brilliant Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) shares the National Theater stage with its ballet company. ߜ A visit to Dresden (Chapter 14) can be made even more memorable by an evening at the Semperoper (Semper Opera House). Cranko is gone. ߜ The city of Leipzig (Chapter 14) is home to the world-renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra and the acclaimed Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera). ߜ In Munich (Chapter 15). and so does the Staatsoper (State Opera). Major artists appear at the Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). the Hamburg Ballet.

D. with garrisons established at Cologne (Chapter 19).D. and recommend some excellent books and movies about Germany.. whet your appetite with a primer on German food and drink. the empire of the Franks represented the transition from a loose conglomeration of German tribes into what eventually would become the German Empire. and wine ᮣ Finding books and movies about Germany T his chapter helps you find out more about Germany and deepens your experience of the country. and Trier. By the first century A. beer. The following list highlights the main trends in German history: ߜ Early history: Prehistoric humans hunted in the Rhine and Neckar valleys of present-day Germany. 768–814) was responsible for the earliest large-scale attempt to unite the lands of Germany under one ruler. the Roman sphere of influence extended well into the borders of present-day Germany. How a civilized European nation slipped into the state of barbaric inhumanity that existed during Nazism’s rise and WWII is a question that continues to occupy historians and survivors and haunt the Germans themselves. The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History Germany’s long and tumultuous history remains clouded by the horrors of World War II (WWII). I distill the essence of Germany’s complicated and tumultuous past so you can get a clear.Chapter 2 Digging Deeper into Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Perusing the main events in Germany’s history ᮣ Recognizing Germany’s architectural heritage ᮣ Discovering German food. Koblenz. quick sense of the major epochs. I highlight the main architectural trends. Charlemagne (Karl der Grosse. Mainz. 400. Following the Roman withdrawal from Germany in A. .

Military conflict on the eastern front resulted in the defeat of Russia. which was followed by the decisive Battle of Waterloo. and until the demise of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. As Protestant Reformation spread. During this period. . in 1871. the works of German artists. In 1813. After defeating the Austrian and Prussian armies. the country’s military and political rulers were determined to return to a system of absolute monarchy.” Berlin — capital of the republic — blossomed into Germany’s economic and cultural center. and Russian armies fought the French emperor in Leipzig. Austrian. and philosophers ushered in the Age of Enlightenment. various German tribal duchies sought to build their own autonomy. the Austrian Hapsburg monarchy reimposed its sovereignty over Prussia and other parts of Germany. writers. Bismarck succeeded in winning over southern German states and. and his work had far-reaching implications. Although the war wasn’t fought on German soil. ߜ The Reformation. the Catholic Church launched a Counter-Reformation that culminated in the bloody Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). pitting the Protestant north against the Catholic south and affecting the whole of Europe. the so-called Weimar government (1919–1934) represented a break in dominant traditions of German history. Because of the weakness of central authority. An upswing in international commerce from the 11th to 13th centuries led to the foundation of “Free Imperial Cities” like Hamburg and Lübeck (see Chapter 13 for both). Prussia gained status as a great European power. became first chancellor of the German Empire (Reich). it resulted in severe food shortages throughout the country and intensified political unrest. Germany remained a collection of small principalities and free cities. ߜ Revolution and the Reich: Following Napoleon’s defeat. 1740–1786). Prussian. The question of independence and national unity finally came to a head in the 1848 revolution.16 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ The Middle Ages: The power struggles and invasions of the Middle Ages continually disrupted the unity hammered out by Charlemagne. Napoleon occupied several German cities and abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. composers. During the “Golden Twenties. Under Frederick the Great (Friedrich der Grosse. Martin Luther (1483–1546) battled against the excesses of the Catholic Church. the Great War (1914–1918) represented a German attempt to dominate Europe. After triumphs in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871). and Napoleon: The 16th century was a time of social unrest and religious upheaval throughout Germany. the Enlightenment. When that effort failed. while fighting on the western front ultimately led to German defeat and the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Prussian statesman Otto von Bismarck (1815–1898) advocated consolidation of the German people under Prussian leadership. In its attempt to establish a democratic and republican government. ߜ World War I and Weimar: For many observers. Residual issues from war and hostility from conservative groups conflicted with reformist and radical impulses of the left and cultural avant-garde.

At the end of the war. and Dachau (Chapter 15). and social systems. gays. and politicians. near the eastern German town of Weimar. Germany’s Jewish past is the subject of Berlin’s remarkable Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). scientists. Berlin (Chapter 12) is particularly rich in memorials commemorating the hundreds of thousands of Jews. economic. including many prominent artists. but old authoritarian. Germany ceased to exist as an independent state. which continued until 1949. walking tours take visitors past Nazi-era buildings and exhibits that interpret Nazi methods. Millions of Jews and other “undesirable” minorities throughout Germany and the rest of Nazi-occupied Europe were systematically exterminated in one of the most horrifying chapters in world history. The Soviet blockade of West Berlin resulted in the Anglo-American Berlin airlift. the site of Nazi-architect Albert Speer’s enormous Congress Hall has been reclaimed as the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Rally Grounds Documentation Center) with a brilliantly informative exhibit that chronicles the rise and fall of the National Socialists. sealing off East Berlin from West Berlin. in German). and the Soviet-ruled German Democratic Republic (GDR) in the eastern half had its capital in East Berlin. You can also visit the courtroom in Nuremberg where Nazi officials were tried after the war. and imperialistic attitudes also provided a ripe environment for the National Socialist Party to take control. In 1961. the Berlin Wall was constructed. Gypsies (Sinta. fled the country to escape persecution. The Federal Republic of Germany in the western half of the country had its capital in Bonn. ߜ The rise of Nazism and World War II: Economic crisis in Germany was a major factor in the rise of the Nazi movement. West German recovery got underway with U.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 17 Remembering the Nazi-era past Germany’s Nazi-era past and the enormity of crimes committed during World War II are facts that can’t be glossed over or overlooked. thousands of German Jews. with its major cities in smoldering ruins. northwest of Munich. See Chapter 12 for information on walking tours that focus on Berlin’s Nazi and Jewish histories. ߜ Germany reunited: The opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989 marked for East Germany the culmination of a wave of previously . the most comprehensive of its kind. As the brutal anti-Semitic political agenda of Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) became apparent. and other groups that were murdered by the National Socialists between 1933 and 1945. In Nuremberg (Chapter 18). Two Germanys developed with highly different political. nationalistic. The most wrenching memorials of that gruesome chapter of German history are the concentration camps Buchenwald (Chapter 14). In 1948.S. the war’s victors divided it into two states as the Cold War intensified. In Berlin. ߜ The two Germanys: Intending at first to govern conquered Germany as one unit. assistance in the form of the Marshall Plan.

Some areas escaped damage. The Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) and palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam (Chapter 12) are two of the best examples of baroque architecture in Germany. . clear forms.200 years of architectural history and were created in a number of different styles. with pointed arches. ߜ Renaissance (late 15th–17th centuries): Augsburg (Chapter 16) is one of the best cities in Germany to see Renaissance architecture. The Dom St.18 Part I: Introducing Germany suppressed revolutionary sentiment across central and eastern Europe. such as the medieval towns along the Romantic Road (see Chapter 16). a building style adapted from much earlier Roman models. Here are examples from around Germany of the major architectural trends: ߜ Romanesque (10th–12th centuries): Simple. Angela Merkel became Germany’s first female chancellor. Compared to Romanesque. soaring vaults and spires. built from 1045 to 1188. The baroque flourished in Catholic. Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture Buildings that you can visit on a trip to Germany span some 1. In 1991. particularly in Cologne (Chapter 19). and enormous windows. A simpler and more monumental kind of Gothic architecture. ߜ Baroque (17th–18th centuries): A decorative exuberance in curvy baroque architecture sets it apart from the more sober Renaissance style. grassroots communication between citizens in East Germany led to massive demonstrations against the repressive. Stalinist government of the GDR. Kilian in Würzburg (Chapter 16). Many historic buildings are painstaking postwar reconstructions. Renaissance architecture was imported from Italy into southern Germany. with East and West Germany united under one government. and rounded arches signal Romanesque architecture. ߜ Gothic (13th–16th centuries): Cologne Cathedral (Chapter 19) is Germany’s greatest example of Gothic architecture. orderly repeating lines. a style characterized by calm precision. Bombing raids in WWII left much of the country’s rich architectural heritage in ruins. Munich (Chapter 15) abounds in the baroque. Berlin was made the nation’s new capital. and classical decoration over windows and doors. built of brick. but the overall devastation affected nearly the entire country. Reforms by Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev and underground. In 2006. Counter-Reformation areas in the south of Germany. Many interesting examples of Romanesque architecture are found in western Germany. thick walls. predominates in northern Germany in cities such as Lübeck (Chapter 13). this style is slender and daring. is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Germany.

One of the most famous examples of flamboyant rococo architecture in Germany is the Wieskirche (Chapter 16) in Bavaria. Bauhaus museums are in Weimar (Chapter 14) and Berlin (Chapter 12). an early-20th-century European movement that emphasized flowing. ߜ Modernism (1948 onward): A major housing shortage and rebuilding effort in bombed cities in Germany followed the devastation of WWII. organic shapes. functional style with straight lines and square windows. Seasonal specialties include Spargel (white . ߜ Bauhaus (1913–1933): A rigorously modern style. ߜ Neoclassical/Neo-Gothic (mid 18th–19th centuries): The neoclassical style was meant to be a rebuke to the excesses of baroque and rococo. you’ll see modernist buildings all around you. ߜ Jugendstil (early 20th century): Jugendstil is the German name for Art Nouveau. Bauhaus was championed by Walter Gropius (1883–1969). neoclassicism gave way to the more ponderous Neo-Gothic style. free of frills and unnecessary decoration. and it was most popular in Berlin (see Chapter 12). who founded the Bauhaus school to create functional buildings and furnishings. asymmetrical. and unappealing most postmodern buildings are. The Bauhaus style predominates in the Weissenhofsiedlung area of Stuttgart (Chapter 18). The famous Mädlerpassage arcade in Leipzig (Chapter 14) shows Jugendstil influence. uninspired. This faux-medievalism is what Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein (Chapter 16) is all about. The school was banned by the Nazis because it didn’t promote “German-looking” architecture. with many regional variations and specialties. James Stirling’s Neue Staatsgalerie in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) is a reminder of just how clunky. It’s a simple. If you walk down the streets or pedestrian zones in just about any major German city. As the century wore on. where the architect Schinkel created a whole neoclassical avenue (Unter den Linden) and island of museums. ߜ Postmodernism (1980s onward): Postmodernism is a style practiced by architects who plunder the past and apply old styles to the buildings of today. exemplified by curving walls and staggering amounts of gilded and stucco decoration. created for a 1927 building exhibition.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 19 ߜ Rococo (18th century): Notch up the elements of baroque and you have rococo. Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany German cooking tends to be hearty and filling. and so do many houses in the Schwabing district of Munich (Chapter 15).

bottle). in an appropriate beer glass or mug. especially in southern Germany. beer. Forelle (trout) in the summer. Ratskellers. Erdbeeren (strawberries) in spring. brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery).20 Part I: Introducing Germany asparagus) in May and June. A proper draft beer. you can taste about 150 different types of sausage. from the barrel) or in a Flasche (flah-shuh. Vollbier (foal-beer. Dark and sweet Malzbier (maltz-beer. yeast. When it comes to baked goods — bread and pastries — Germany has more variety than any country in the world. and taste all contribute to a German beer’s unique qualities. Weizenbier (vitsen-beer). or “March beer. Kölsch. In the country as a whole. or standard beer) has 4 percent alcohol. alcoholic content. brewed with darkly roasted malt fermented for a long period of time) or a helles Bier (light beer. and Nuremberg all have their own special kinds. according to the Germans. Märzbier (maertz-beer). Munich. or ein Kleines (ine kly-nis). The ratio of ingredients. you have many choices.” is dark and strong. or Pilsener. Pils. aging time. always serve good and fairly inexpensive traditional food. Malzbier. A German law adopted in 1516 dictates that German beer may contain no ingredients other than hops. can’t be poured in less than seven minutes to achieve the proper head. When you order a beer in Germany. and tell the waiter or tavernkeeper whether you want ein Bier vom Fass (fum fahss. color. brewing temperature and technique. Bockbier. and wine. traditional cellar restaurants beneath a city’s Rathaus (Town Hall). for a large. . Vollbier. made from wheat. Export has 5 percent. for a small. decide whether you want a dunkles Bier (dark beer. The traditional Biergarten (beer garden). Export. and Weizenbier. with tables set outdoors under trees or trellises. Berlin. The most popular beer in Germany is Pils. followed by Export. and Reh (venison) in the fall. and a beer with lunch in the factory cafeteria is taken for granted. and Bockbier has 6 percent. Matjes (white herring) in June and July. Sampling German beer Bier (pronounced beer) remains a vital part of German culture. malt beer) contains hardly any alcohol. beers are light and contain more hops. Lager. A Bräuhaus (broy-house) serves its own brew along with local food. is still very popular. You ask for ein Grosses (ine grow-ses).200 varieties of biscuits and cakes. To order a beer. Märzbier. with a long-lasting head of white foam. The range of beer varieties includes Altbier. so much so that the right to drink beer is written into some labor contracts. is a Bavarian white beer. Pils. and water. with about 300 different types of bread and 1. but not too cold. The beer is always served cold. malt (barley).

about WWII and the Holocaust. and social life of Berlin between the wars. The books I’ve selected include many great German authors. Vollman: A bold. and in particular. that can help you gain a better understanding of German history. cultural. And German beers are legendary. ߜ Billiards at Half-Past Nine by Heinrich Böll: A compelling novel by one of Germany’s best-known writers about the compromises made by a rich German family during the Hitler years. Books (fiction and nonfiction) The number of books written about Germany. brewed right in the area. ߜ Bismarck by Edward Crankshaw: An objective and highly readable life of the first chancellor of the German Empire and a seminal figure in Germany’s Prussian past. Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies In the following book and movie lists. mostly from grapes grown in the scenic Rhine and Mosel valleys (Chapter 19).Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 21 Although not kind to the waistline. past and present. Look out for regional specialties. I attempt to provide a broad overview of Germany from many different perspectives and historical epochs. ߜ Buddenbrooks by Thomas Mann: A classic of German literature. has increased dramatically during the past two decades. brilliant novel that examines the authoritarian cultures of 20th-century Germany and . the German tradition of afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is alive and well. ߜ Berlin Journal 1989–1990 by Robert Darnton: An eyewitness account of the events that led to the opening of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of East Germany’s Communist regime. ߜ Europe Central by William T. Each city has its favorites. for example. provide excellent accompaniments to any meal. and Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is famous for its Lebkuchen (spice cakes). too. is the capital of Marzipan (almond paste). personalities. Lübeck (Chapter 13). ߜ Conversations with Goethe by Johann Peter Eckermann: Early19th-century Germany from the viewpoint of the most renowned German figure of the Enlightenment. ߜ Before the Deluge: A Portrait of Berlin in the 1920s by Otto Friedrich: A fascinating portrait of the political. this novel deals with the transition of a merchant family in Lübeck from 19th-century stability to 20th-century uncertainty. and politics. German wines (Chapter 23).

Holocaust. ߜ The Germans by Gordon Craig: A highly readable and knowledgeable portrait of postwar Germany. Konrad: If you’re interested in tracing your German roots. ߜ Here I Stand: A Life of Martin Luther by Roland Bainton: A fascinating and meticulously researched account of the Protestant reformer. and John Toland. and chancellor of West Germany (1969–1974). this easy-to-follow guide makes the task easier. cultural. ߜ The Last Jews in Berlin by Leonard Gross: Gripping. statesman. and German National Identity by Charles S. ߜ Hitler: 1936–1945: Nemesis by Ian Kershaw: Several good biographies about Hitler have been written. ߜ My Life in Politics by Willy Brandt: The political memoirs of Willy Brandt (1913–1992). written by a Nobel Prize winner who kept his own Nazi past a secret until 2006. and patron of the arts. ߜ The Tin Drum by Günter Grass: Perhaps the most famous novel about life in post-WWII Germany.22 Part I: Introducing Germany Russia and creates a mesmerizing picture of life during wartime from many different perspectives. this powerful novel explores Nazism and its aftermath in the north German provinces. and economic life in Germany from the foundation of the German Reich through the end of the Third Reich. ߜ The Unmasterable Past: History. mayor of cold-war West Berlin (1957–1966). ߜ Germany 1866–1945 by Gordon Craig: One of the best single accounts of the turbulent political. including works by Robert Payne. ߜ German Family Research Made Easy by J. ߜ Frederick the Great by Nancy Mitford: Frederick. true stories of a handful of Jews who managed to remain in Berlin during WWII by hiding out in the homes of non-Jewish German friends. Maier: A study of German attempts to come to terms with the Holocaust and the recent controversy surrounding conservative attempts to downplay the historical . ߜ A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain: Twain’s account of his travels in Germany is as fresh today as when it first was published in 1899. scholar. musician. sketched with wit and humor. ߜ The German Lesson by Siegfried Lenz: A bestseller when it first appeared in 1971. ߜ Five Germanys I Have Known by Fritz Stern: The well-known historian chronicles the five distinct eras of Germany’s modern history that his Jewish family has experienced. but Kershaw’s is one of the best. winner of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. Joachim Fest.

the one who built Neuschwanstein. starring Marlene Dietrich as an amoral cabaret singer and Jean Arthur as a self-righteous U. Lenin! (2004): A wry comedy about a young man in East Berlin who tries to keep his bedridden mother. ߜ Witness to Nuremberg by Richard Sonnenfeldt: The chief American interpreter at the war-crimes trials tell his story of dealing directly with Hermann Göring. a gay man sent to Dachau concentration camp under the Nazi regime. ߜ The Marriage of Maria Braun (1979): Hanna Schygulla stars as a woman married to a soldier in the waning days of WWII. a loyal Communist. this classic German silent movie used expressionist sets to create a tale of murder and madness. ߜ The Blue Angel (1930): The film that shot Marlene Dietrich to international stardom remains stark.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany uniqueness of the German genocide against Jews and other minorities. .S. ߜ Cabaret (1972): A musical based on Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories and set in Berlin at the brink of WWII. entertaining crash course in German culture. customs. startling. and provocative. My recommended list includes a selection of German and Germany-themed films available on VHS or DVD. ߜ Bent (1997): Movie adaptation of Martin Sherman’s powerful play about Max. ߜ Berlin Alexanderplatz (1980): Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 15-part television adaptation of the novel by Alfred Döblin follows the life of a man released from prison between the two world wars. from learning that the wall has come down and Germany has been reunited. the powerful Nazi official who was subsequently executed for war crimes. and heritage. 23 ߜ When in Germany. ߜ A Foreign Affair (1948): Billy Wilder’s cynically hilarious look at postwar occupied Berlin. ߜ Ludwig (1972): Visconti’s turgid epic about the last king of Bavaria. Movies As with literature. ߜ Goodbye. ߜ The Cabinet of Doctor Caligari (1921): One of the earliest horror films. WWII and the Holocaust have dominated the subject matter of recent films about Germany — so much so that German-made films about contemporary German life rarely get a showing outside of Germany unless they win a top prize at a film festival. Do as the Germans Do by Hyde Flippo: A short. senator.

24 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Metropolis (1927): Fritz Lang directed this classic of German cinema. ߜ Wings of Desire (1988): An angel roaming the streets of Berlin and recording the angst and joy of ordinary life falls in love with a mortal.000 Deutsche Marks to save her boyfriend from being rubbed out by a gangster. in which the Workers plan a revolt against the aloof Thinkers that dominate them in a future dystopia. ߜ Run. Lola. ߜ Triumph of the Will (1934): Leni Riefenstahl filmed the gigantic 1934 Nazi conference and rally in Nuremberg as “image-control” propaganda for the Third Reich. Run (1999): Fast-paced twists and turns as Lola races desperately through Berlin seeking 100. . ߜ Olympiad (1936): Leni Riefenstahl’s super-Aryan take on the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin.

which is influenced by the North and Baltic seas. W Going Where You Want to Be Germany For Dummies. The food is plainer. only the essential highlights. You also find a calendar of events so you can time your trip to coincide with. region. and city in Deutschland. and scenic regions that Germany has to offer. and when do you want to go? In this chapter. The climate in the north. check out the following thumbnail sketches and find details of the best places Germany has to offer in Chapters 1 and 2. geared to savvy travelers who want to know more about Germany’s leading sights. often is wet or . or avoid. This chapter points out highlights of each region and gives you the lowdown on the weather so you can determine the best destinations and time of year for your visit. historic towns. For locations. the north’s sober redbrick Gothic churches and buildings lack the ornate baroque decorations found in the Catholic south. with an emphasis on fish. too. I don’t cover every state. special sights. 3rd Edition. To figure out which regions to visit during your trip. My aim in this book is to introduce you to the best cities. see “The Regions in Brief” map in this chapter. Discovering northern Germany Northern Germany is a different world from southern Germany. special festivals and events. I help you to narrow your focus so you can start planning your trip in earnest. Architecturally.Chapter 3 Deciding Where and When to Go In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring Germany’s main points of interest ᮣ Scheduling your trip ᮣ Getting a grip on the seasons: Tourism and weather ᮣ Flipping through the country’s calendar of events hat do you want to see when you visit Germany. is a selective guidebook.

has so many medieval brick buildings that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site — a place judged to be of exceptional cultural value. but some people believe the maritime atmosphere is part of its overall appeal. the Zeitgeschichtliches Museum (Contemporary History Museum) chronicles the history and artifacts of the GDR years. top performing-arts venues. you see examples of its 900-yearold history everywhere you turn. The Bach Museum is of interest to classical-music lovers. and Bremen. so are the breezy Alster Lakes in the center of the city. such as Altona. you find a historic center with a day’s worth of sightseeing possibilities. as some people claim? With world-class museums. is a major tourist attraction. another easy daytrip from Hamburg. multifaceted collection of art. under the Communist regime of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). on the Elbe River and only two hours from Berlin by train. The peaceful revolution of 1989 began there. Big. brash Berlin was the capital of the old German Reich for 70 years before it was divided into two cities — one capitalist. In the Altstadt. and its harbor. East Germany’s secret police. now a lively area with restaurants. has been less interested in restoring its past than looking toward the future. . Exploring eastern Germany Now that Germany is reunited. opened in 2005. Berlin is where all is happening in Germany right now. and the Museum of Fine Arts. and striking new architecture. one of the biggest in the world. which houses an outstanding. and the city seems to be working overtime to shake off its GDR legacy: The Museum in der Runden Ecke is devoted to the role the Stasi. Does the Berliner Luft (Berlin air) account for Berlin’s endless and ongoing fizz of excitement. on the other hand. one Communist — after World War II. has treasures beyond measure in the Zwinger Palace and the Residenzschloss. For the scoop on Hamburg. and visit the Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum). you have an opportunity to visit sections of eastern Germany that for 45 years were inaccessible. Lübeck. It has stitched itself back together to become the capital (and largest city) of a reunified Germany and now reigns as one of the most fascinating cities in the world. turn to Chapter 13. Lübeck. 18thcentury palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam — in Chapters 11 and 12.26 Part I: Introducing Germany misty. After Berlin and Munich (in the south). Hamburg is the third-largest city in Germany. played in the lives of citizens. Similarly. or at least difficult to visit. offers a rich collection of European art and 19th-century German paintings. Dresden. cafes. historic reverberations. according to the United Nations’ agency that promotes education and the arts. from the Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall) to the church spires that dominate the skyline. Leipzig. In Hamburg. In Bremen. You find comprehensive coverage of Berlin — including a daytrip to Frederick the Great’s charming. an easy daytrip from Hamburg. and bars. you can also explore beautiful 19th-century neighborhoods.

It suffered little damage during the war and was the home of Germany’s greatest writer.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 27 The Regions in Brief 0 0 50 mi Sylt Sylt Westerland DENMARK Baltic Sea Kiel Bay Hiddensee N 50 km Flensburg North Frisian Is. textiles. The small Bauhaus Museum exhibits paintings. Cuxhaven Rügen gen Mecklenburg Stralsund Pomeranian Bay Bay Rostock Greifswald Wismar Lübeck beck West Frisian Is.d. quiet. furniture. and drawings from the Bauhaus school.000 people . A visit to the Buchenwald Memorial. eastern town of Weimar is in a category of its own.T. the poet and dramatist Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832). Stettin Bay Neubrandenburg Wilhelmshaven Emden Oldenburg Bremerhaven W Elb e Hamburg El be Schwerin TH HE E N ET H ERLAN DS NET HER L AND S Bremen Celle Northern and Eastern Germany See Part III Alle r Brandenburg Havel Osnabr ck Osnabrück Minden Hannover Braunschweig Hameln Goslar BERLIN Frankfurt Münster nster Rh in e Bielefeld Detmold Hildesheim Potsdam an der Oder Oder bbenau Lübbenau Cottbus Magdeburg H A R Z Wittenberg Essen Lippe Dortmund Ruhr Düsseldorf sseldorf Bad Pyrmont Dessau be El Od ese r Lüneburg neburg er POLAND Mönchengladbach nchengladbach Cologne Aachen Ems Ne We ser Spre Göttingen ttingen isse Halle Leipzig e Kassel Weimar Bad Wildungen Eisenach Erfurt Bautzen Naumburg Meissen Dresden Altenburg Freiberg Jena Görlitz rlitz TH Bonn BEL BE LG GIUM IU M Bad Nauheim Bad Homburg Bad Kissingen GE Gera Zwickau RW Chemnitz ER E ZG BI RG E Koblenz Wiesbaden Mainz Rhi ne ÜR ALD Coburg Hof La IN be BernkastelKues Frankfurt am Main Aschaffenburg Ma Würzburg rzburg AN Speyer Rothenburg o. The homes of these two literary giants are Weimar’s most popular tourist attractions. and to the playwright Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805). Schleswig Mountain Kiel North Sea East Frisian Is. pottery. Nuremberg C AN FR Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl O JUR LUXEMTrier BOURG in Bayreuth Bamberg Darmstadt Worms Mannheim eck Homburg Heidelberg N Saarbrücken Saarbr cken A CZECH REPUBLIC M Ta ub er BO NI ar HE A Karlsruhe BadenBaden Schwäbisch Schw bisch Hall Stuttgart Ulm B (SC LAC Rhi ne HW K F AR OR ZW EST AL D) Tübingen bingen Regensburg F O RE Da ST nub e rdlingen Nördlingen r Ingolstadt Isa Passau Augsburg Landshut N I FRANCE Lech Freiburg Lörrach rrach SWAB Donaueschingen Meersburg Konstanz Lindau Lake JU IAN RA nu Da be Dachau Munich Oberammergau Füssen ssen GarmischPartenkirchen Southern and Western Germany See Part IV Prien am AU Chiemsee Berchtesgaden STRIA SW S W I TZ TZE ER RLA L A ND ND Constance (Bodensee) Neuschwanstein Zugspitze The small. which began here in 1919. the site of a Nazi-run concentration camp just outside of Weimar where at least 56.

This alpine region. the most beautiful driving tour in Germany. Savoring southern Germany Southern Germany is worlds apart from the north. Leipzig. Farther north is the city of Baden-Baden. In the center of town sits an enormous palace. used by the rulers of Bavaria from the 14th century up to 1918. 19th-century greats. the Residenz. Both areas offer great natural beauty and plenty of recreational opportunities. From there you can explore the surrounding forest or hunt for a cuckoo clock. The city’s most popular museum is the Deutsches Museum. From Munich. also is where you find Oberammergau. can be an intense and profoundly moving experience. You also find lovely churches with sober Gothic and exuberant baroque interiors. the lively and lovely city of Freiburg is a delight. the Bodensee. Lindau. Bavaria. and major 20th-century artists. with stops at several perfectly preserved medieval towns along the way. Details about the Bodensee and the Black Forest are in Chapter 17. with an upscale chic. is a place that’s tailor-made for tourists. Germany’s largest lake. crammed with old masters.28 Part I: Introducing Germany died. Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle in the Bavarian Alps. but it’s also boisterous. sits in a sun-drenched basin with a view of the Alps to the south. even raucous: Millions pour into the city during Oktoberfest to experience Munich’s renowned giant beer halls and beer gardens. You find complete coverage of Dresden. an island in the lake. an island-city connected to the mainland by a causeway. symphony. semitropical gardens flourish on Mainau. Chapter 15 is devoted to the many delights of Munich. and Weimar in Chapter 14. or Black Forest. is the best spot to stay. Bavaria is full of scenic splendor and picturesque charm. which is accessible by cable car. one of the traditional industries of the Black Forest region. This enchanting route winds south from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein. You’ll find plenty of both along the Romantic Road. the capital. The Romantic Road and daytrips in Bavaria are covered in Chapter 16. and the famous Schwarzwald. In the Black Forest. Germany’s highest peak. Munich. the daytrip to the mountain resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen is an easy one. Germany’s largest and most prosperous Land (state). Munich’s musical life is the envy of many cities. Southern Germany also includes the Bodensee (also called Lake Constance). with year-round opera. and vineyards and fruit trees grow around its shoreline. Ranking right up there with the offerings of Berlin are Munich’s museums. the largest science and technology museum in the world. and it’s close to the Zugspitze. is cultured and elegant. . with its famous mineral baths and glamorous casino. and concerts of all kinds. a town that’s famous for its woodcarvers and for the Passion play performed there every ten years — a tradition dating back to the 17th century. where cowbells clang in the meadows and classic chalets nestle in picturesque valleys.

the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). with major painting collections and the fabulous Neue Galerie. For more on Cologne and side trips into Germany’s wine country. Heidelberg. one of Germany’s best for art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. occupies a prime spot on the Rhine River. The Rhine and Mosel valleys in western Germany form one of Europe’s top wine-producing areas. sophisticated. and a delightful Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum). The city’s past dark side as a center for Nazi rallies is documented in the harrowing exhibit at the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Party Rally Grounds Documentation Center) created within Albert Speer’s Nazi Congress Hall. By contrast. Köln. Stuttgart. Nuremberg has as many romantic corners as Heidelberg. Cologne also is one of the contemporary-art capitals of Germany. . and Nuremberg are covered in Chapter 18.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 29 Wending through western Germany Western Germany is a densely populated area with an ancient history and cities with vibrant personalities all their own. Nürnberg (or Nuremberg as it’s known in English) was rebuilt in a style that evokes the medieval era when it was one of the most important cities in Germany. River cruises originating in Cologne and many other cities in the area take you through valleys of neatly clipped vineyards soaking up sunlight on steep hillsides. Chief among its many outstanding museums are the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. This lively. business-oriented buzz and a skyline pierced by designer skyscrapers. Stuttgart’s is one of the largest. in part because it’s the point of entry for most visitors who fly into the country. Heidelberg is for many people the quintessential romantic German town. The banking capital of Germany and the European Union. an art museum housed in a striking glass cube offering a panoramic view of Stuttgart. or Cologne (as it’s known in English). in addition to the country’s largest museum of art and culture. Frankfurt has a modern. Little more than a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of WWII. Stuttgart. You can also visit many wine towns by train. see Chapter 19. Heidelberg’s enormous ruined castle oversees its picturesque Altstadt (Old Town). and good-natured town offers more than enough to keep you busy for a couple of days. Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is the oldest in Germany. Its chief glory is its awe-inspiring Dom (Cathedral). Frankfurt probably is the best-known metropolis in western Germany. and the Museum Ludwig. Sitting on the Neckar River amid green hills. the largest Gothic structure north of the Alps. which comes as a wonderful surprise to many visitors. all described in Chapter 20. Cologne was an important Roman town during a period that is wonderfully interpreted in the Romisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). only 40 minutes by train from Heidelberg. reigns as the cultural capital of southwestern Germany. one of the top modern-art museums in Europe. Among its many cultural offerings are several important museums.

Leipzig. Garmisch-Partenkirchen. You can also arrange for boat trips on the Rhine and visit the winegrowing regions by car or train. the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany). and Oberammergau. Füssen. In addition. Keep German holidays in mind when scheduling your trip. ߜ From Berlin. all the major cities of western Germany — Heidelberg. in addition to Augsburg. If you want to explore all parts of the country. an easy hour-and-a-half drive away (see Chapter 16 for more details). your airport choices are Frankfurt. the seventh Sunday after Easter). Corpus Christi (ten days after Pentecost). Revealing the Secret of the Seasons How do you decide what time of year to travel to Germany? This section presents the pros and cons of each season. and Cologne. and Lindau on Lake Constance. August 15 (Assumption). Ascension Day (ten days before Pentecost/ Whitsunday. so you can choose the best time for your visit. and December 25 to 26 (Christmas). the northern German cities of Lübeck and Bremen are a short train ride away. Frankfurt airport has its own train station. May 1 (Labor Day). consider centering your itineraries in Berlin. you can easily reach places in the Bavarian Alps. ߜ From Hamburg. and Berlin. Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday). you have easy access to the cities of Dresden. Stuttgart. ߜ From Munich. Nuremberg. and November 1 (All Saints’ Day). . October 3 (Day of German Unity). ߜ From Cologne. Munich. rent a car at Frankfurt airport and drive to the beginning of the scenic route in Würzburg. If a driving tour along the Romantic Road is part of your itinerary. Easter (including Good Friday and Easter Monday). and Baden-Baden — are never more than three hours away by train. Hamburg. so it’s possible to hop on a fast train at the airport and arrive almost anywhere in Germany within five hours or less of your arrival. including Neuschwanstein. the latter of which has a new Delta direct flight from New York. November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance). Many museums and attractions close on the following public holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day).30 Part I: Introducing Germany Scheduling Your Time If you’re flying into the country from outside of Europe. and Weimar in eastern Germany. Munich.

The country is most crowded during the months of May and June. some report a hotter and drier climate.2 2. July and August may be less expensive because that’s when Germans take off on their own holidays.2 1. Average summer temperatures range from 72°F to 80°F (20°C–30°C). see Table 3-1 for Berlin in the north and Table 3-2 for Frankfurt in the south. As in many parts of the world. Most castles and palaces can be visited daily yearround. the high season for travel in Germany is from Easter to the end of September with another peak in December. In southern Germany. be prepared for variations. °C Rainfall (in.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 31 Traveling during high and low seasons Roughly speaking. the lines for major attractions. These trade fairs can put a real squeeze on hotel rooms. the weather in Germany has become less predictable than in the past.3 60 16 2. Recent summers brought record-breaking heat waves and even in autumn many parts of Germany can be warmer than expected. and tourist offices have shorter hours and may be closed certain days of the week. I think a disclaimer is in order. temperate climate.4 34 1 1.6 1. some locals claim that they now receive less snow and more rain than in decades past. So.9 2. especially in the north. may be more than two hours long. bear in mind that the climate is constantly affected by colliding continental and maritime air masses from the Baltic and North seas.2 49 9 1. for instance.6 3. and many hotels consequently offer lower summer rates. For average temperatures and rainfalls.9 64 18 62 17 56 13 2. October and November and January through March are the low seasons. In the winter months. Nearly all large German cities have a Messe. with a year-round schedule of major trade shows in all industries. Table 3-1 Berlin’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Temp. museums. although I can give you a very broad overview of general weather patterns in Germany.) 30 –1 32 0 40 4 48 9 53 12 2.2 1. The average winter temperature hovers around 32°F (0°C). like Neuschwanstein and Linderhof castles in Bavaria. or the Reichstag dome in Berlin. Overall. °F Temp. In northern Germany. generally from October through March. or convention center/fairground. crowds and prices tend to rise during big trade fairs. In general.6 40 4 2. but from April through September. Watching those unpredictable skies Before I write about the weather in Germany. castles. That said. Germany has a predominantly mild. resulting in plenty of unpredictable weather.7 .

ߜ The snow in the Alps usually melts by April.7 5. major attractions in cities throughout Germany tend to be more crowded. the weather up north can remain. heralds the approach of spring around the giant Bodensee (Lake Constance) and in the river valleys of the Black Forest and throughout southwestern Germany. ߜ In towns around Bodensee.5 35 2 6 Temp. though.32 Part I: Introducing Germany Table 3-2 Frankfurt’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 34 1 36 2 42 6 49 9 57 14 5.5 5. °F Temp. the least-gray months usually are June and September.1 If your trip includes northern Germany.5 66 19 66 19 58 14 4. ߜ The carefully tended parks and gardens in German cities show off their first spring flowers. rainy weather can last well into early summer in Berlin and other northern cities. Here are some of the season’s highlights: ߜ The warmth of springtime sun coaxes out the new vines in Germany’s Rhineland wine country. But keep in mind these springtime pitfalls: ߜ Cold.1 5. . ߜ Blossoms appear on the fruit trees grown around the Bodensee and the Rhine.2 50 10 4. invigorating. the months that are least cloudy.) 6.9 63 17 5. Blossoming in spring Spring comes earliest in the south and in the Rhine Valley. Even with clear skies.0 5. shall we say. In the interior of Germany. such as Lindau. ߜ During school holidays. leaving May as an “inbetween” off-month: The weather in the Alps tends to be soggy and foggy at this time. especially around Easter. ߜ May and June is Spargel (white asparagus) season throughout Germany.8 41 5 6. The Föhn. consider visiting in April and May. °C Rainfall (in.6 5. you find asparagus specialties on menus everywhere. an early spring means that tables are set up in sunny squares and life begins to move outdoors. a dry south wind from the Alps.

making this a perfect time to explore the Romantic Road. gasoline and diesel exhaust can create air pollution on hot. or what the Germans call Altweibersommer (old women’s summer). around Cologne and even as far north as Berlin.m. hotels and concert halls can be broiling. Glowing in autumn Fall is one of the best times to visit Germany. or sometimes later. Leipzig. Summer weather in the Bavarian Alps is extremely variable and changes according to altitude. Some summer perks to consider: ߜ Prices for hotels often are lower in July and August. the Black Forest. The deciduous trees in the Black and Thuringian forests and along the Rhine. ߜ Outdoor musical performances and street fairs take place in many cities and regions. In the north. ߜ Heat and humidity can make for sticky sightseeing throughout central and southern Germany. vines turn yellow. Indian summer. However. frequently makes a welcome appearance during October and November. ߜ Lakes in the Alps. mild weather in southern Germany. ߜ In traffic-jammed cities like Berlin. local winds. and thundery. Autumn days are beautiful in scenic Bavaria. In southern and western Germany. mid.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 33 Shining (and raining) in summer From April through September. and the orientation of individual valleys to the sun. Neckar. Summer in the north comes later and remains variable because of maritime influences from the North and Baltic seas. ߜ Warm summer nights stay light much longer. until 10 p. But keep in mind: ߜ Airfare tends to be higher during summer months. and Berlin become more inviting as warm weather settles in. and other river valleys turn golden as the days grow shorter. after the grape harvest. heralding gray. and the landlocked eastern portion of the country.and late-summer days can become hot. ߜ Air-conditioning is not common in Germany. humid. ߜ You can dine alfresco (outdoors) in most German cities. ߜ Many attractions are open longer hours. ߜ Getting into top attractions like Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace can take two hours or more. windless days. you can generally count on warm. which also can be the case in Dresden. and Frankfurt. wet winters. . autumn is likely to be rainy and blustery. Munich.

handcrafted goods.m. the Bavarian Alps. ߜ In the weeks before Lent. symphony.34 Part I: Introducing Germany A few advantages of autumn: ߜ Summer crowds have thinned out by the end of September. ߜ Almost everything shuts down on December 25 and 26 and New Year’s Day. ߜ Airfares usually drop. skiers head for the slopes and cross-country trails. lending a special air to the country’s many Christmas markets. numbing. This story is different in the Bavarian Alps and the Black Forest. But with winter temperatures hovering right around freezing. The cold can be raw. But winter has its downside: ߜ Brrr. ߜ Daylight drops dramatically: Darkness falls as early as 3:30 or 4 p. and seemingly endless. and other events swings into high gear. ߜ Giant beer festivals transform Munich and Stuttgart. ߜ Scenic areas like the Black Forest. ߜ Germany’s cultural calendar of opera. Cologne and Munich celebrate with citywide carnivals (Fasching). where the winter weather is colder and snow adds to the beauty of the mountain and forest landscapes. especially in the north. Both the Alps and the Black Forest are known for their fine skiing and winter sports. Winter can be wonderful because: ߜ In December. cities throughout the country set up magical outdoor Christmas markets where you find tree ornaments. ߜ When the snow starts to fall in the Alps and the Black Forest. ߜ Although you’ll be comfortable in your hotel. ߜ The smell of new wine fills the old streets of winegrowing towns. and often turns into sleet. ߜ Towns in winegrowing areas celebrate with wine festivals. and the Rhineland glow with autumn hues. . This season has only one real drawback: Autumn may be gray and rainy. especially in the north. Germans tend to underheat rather than overheat their spaces. and baked delights. Welcoming winter Snow can fall anywhere in Germany. snow doesn’t stay on the ground for long.

Verifying dates beforehand with the German National Tourist Board is a good idea. or call or write for a free calendar of events. www. Bingen and Rüdesheim. February The well-respected Berlin International Film Festival (% 030/25920. Second week in February. See the appendix for the tourist board’s contact information. www.muenchen-tourist. and St. reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday. is one of Europe’s major winter sporting lasts for a week and showcases the work of international film directors in addition to the latest German and Munich (% 089/ in Leipzig features performances of Johann Sebastian Bach’s work in the famous Thomaskirche. first week of are particularly famous. The renowned Bachfest/Bach Festival (% 0341/913-7333. www. The best .koeln. May Hamburg Summer is a summer-long series of cultural events. Goarshausen) illuminate their castles and set off fireworks. where he was choirmaster. in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/180-700. Last week in May to the first week in On special Saturday nights during Rhein im Feuerzauber (Rhine in Flames).garmisch-partenkirchen. www. contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. Rothenburg ob der Tauber celebrates the story of how a brave citizen saved the town from destruction by drinking a huge tankard of wine (an event called Der Meistertrunk).de). various towns along the Rhine (between Bonn and Linz. Check its Web site ( During the Historisches Festspiel (Historic Festival). Goar and St. May through July.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 35 Perusing a Calendar of Events Germany hums year-round with festivals and special events of all kinds. Third week in May. and in other churches and concert A week in February. January 1. Celebrations in Cologne (% 0221/9433. contact Tourist Information (% 09861/40492. including concerts.berlinale. plays. and special exhibitions. For information. January New Year’s Day International Ski Jumping. www. Events take place twice a year. For information. Koblenz and Braubach. www. Fasching (Carnival) festivals take place in Catholic cities throughout Germany.germany-tourism. festivals.bachleipzig.

berlin. Cologne. The Traditional Rüdesheim Wine Festival. Unfortunately. one of the best music festivals in first weekend in and street fairs. Nürnberger Herbsfest (Fall Festival). shmf. For details. de). May through jazz concerts. For information. Pavillon (% 06221/ For events in Berlin. performances. Early heidelberg. contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau (% 06722/19433).koeln. takes place in the composer’s famous Festspielhaus (opera house). opera tickets must be booked years in advance. the Richard Wagner Festival (% 0921/78780. a big Frankish folk festival in Nuremberg (% 0911/468-600. June Fireworks enliven the sky in the romantic university city of Heidelberg during the Floodlighting of the Castle. July One of Europe’s major opera events. in Rüdesheim am Rhein. Enjoy vintages from the surrounding Black Forest area during Freiburg im Breisgau’s Public Wine Tasting. Last weekend in June. For information. classical concerts take place in venues in and around the lovely old city of Lübeck. August During Weinkost (Food and Wine Fair) in Freiburg im Breisgau. and events for the whole family. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. log on to www. Events take place in the Münsterplatz surrounding Freiburg’s magnificent cathedral. Late July to late August. www. local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district and regional food specialties. takes place in the Rhine village most famous for red wines.freiburg. During the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival (% 0800/7463-2002. contact Heidelberg Tourist-Information. contact the German National Tourist Board (see the appendix for contact info). gay-web. for events in Cologne. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. last weekend in June. MidJuly to early September. www. www. in Bayreuth. Mid-August. log on to www.36 Part I: Introducing Germany vantage point is from a riverboat on the Rhine. featuring parades.volksfest-nuernberg. For more information. www. Berlin. www. For information. . Berlin and Cologne have the largest Gay Pride festivals. and early September. features folk music.freiburg. Last week in August through first week in September.

de).hamburg. One of the high points on the cultural calendar of Germany. where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to www. and shows. is a major event in the world of international book publishing. First week in November. contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 37 Arts and pleasure abound during Hamburg’s Alstervergnügen (Alster Pleasures). Mid-September to the first Sunday in October. Mid-October. www.stuttgart-tourist. and theatrical presentations. www.000 beer drinkers. rides. .hamburg. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. November The annual Jazz-Fest Berlin. Last weekend in August. staged at the Philharmonie. contact TourismusZentrale (% 040/3005-1201. Last week in August. is the biggest public event in northern Germany. Contact the tourist information office (% 0711/222-8259. symphony. happens mostly in and visitors pack Dating back to 1818. wine lovers converge on Schillerplatz to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. Germany’s most famous festival. and tents for beer drinkers. not October. October The largest book fair in Europe. www. contact the Stuttgart tourist information office (% 0711/2228259. At the Stuttgart Wine Festival.oktoberfest. Most activities occur at for more the Berliner Festwochen (Berlin Festival) brings an international roster of performing artists to Berlin for opera. include food stalls. the 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. the Frankfurt Book Fair (% 069/21010. September through attracts some of the world’s finest jazz an annual amusement fair at Hamburg’s Heiligengeistfeld. For more information. For information. which take place around Binnenalster Lake. September Munich’s Oktoberfest (www. Millions show up. www.frankfurt-book-fair. Late September. www. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/ for information. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. Events. www. Hamburger Dom (also called Winter Dom). For information. November 9 to December 9. begins with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes and features food.

You find them in Cologne. for details (see the appendix for contact information). Dresden. Late November or early December until Christmas. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. among other cities. or the German National Tourist Board.38 Part I: Introducing Germany December A Christmas Market. Munich. Contact the individual tourist offices of each city. and Stuttgart. “Christ Child Market”). . generally called a Weihnachtsmarkt (Weihnachten means Christmas) or a Christkindlmarkt (literally. Frankfurt. Nuremberg. takes place in town squares throughout Germany. Leipzig.

some of these itineraries are more enjoyable if you have a car. the city’s main square. and visit the nearby Frauenkirche. watch the Glockenspiel. If you haven’t visited a destination before. Shake out your plane-cramped legs by taking to the streets for some general exploration. and Chapter 12 for Berlin. make your way to the . I lay out some suggested travel itineraries for those with limited time or with special interests. For details on getting around the country.) Although you can reach all the destinations in this chapter by train or public transportation. see Chapter 15 for Munich. Browse around and find a place for lunch from among the dozens of possibilities in the area. Spend Day 1 in marvelous Munich. shows you the contrasts between southern Germany and northern Germany and introduces you to the country’s two greatest cities. Munich’s largest church. one of the greatest food markets in Europe.Chapter 4 Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options In This Chapter ᮣ Seeing Germany’s top attractions in one or two weeks ᮣ Discovering Germany with your kids ᮣ Planning trips for wine aficionados P utting together a good itinerary is one of the hardest parts of any trip. Head first for Marienplatz. For more information about the sights that I mention. Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week This seven-day itinerary. see Chapter 7. Then walk over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt. Chapter 19 for Cologne. beginning in Munich and ending in Berlin. on the Rhine. I include two of King Ludwig II’s castles and a brief stop in Cologne. Chapter 16 for the Bavarian Alps and its castles. You can go up to the top of the Rathaus tower for a bird’s-eye view. (See Chapter 1 for some preliminary information on what the country offers. how do you know what’s worth seeing and what isn’t? In this chapter. Afterward.

a beautiful baroque masterpiece located just a few miles north of Füssen. Ludwig’s childhood home. a showcase for 19thcentury German and European art. Three possibilities are the Neue Pinakothek. Then. By train from Oberammergau. if you’re still in a “royal” mood. make your way to the famous Deutsches Museum. Have lunch near Marienplatz. creator of Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle. Oberammergau. which displays an international collection of 20th-century masterpieces. just south of Munich. for a spectacular view of the Alps. Tours of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castle take about one hour. you can easily explore some of the sights along the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road). At some point. so you may want to end your evening at a concert or the opera. the closest town to Linderhof Palace. If you’re interested in science and technology. the trip is only 40 minutes by train or car to Oberammergau. From Garmisch. whose wares you may want to purchase. you may want to see the priceless collection of old masters at the Alte Pinakotheke. choose a museum to visit. You can bring a picnic or order a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. On Day 3. Spend the night in Garmisch. If you choose Nymphenburg. Munich is one of Germany’s top cultural capitals. and be sure to take time to stroll around the lovely historic district of town. Germany’s highest peak. this castle quickly fills up with tourists as the day wears on. If you’re an art lover. which includes the bizarrely ornate sleighs and coaches used by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. make your way to Füssen. If you’re in the mood for oom-pah-pah. you can easily get a bus from Füssen for the 6. and be sure to visit the collection of carriages. In the afternoon. the location for Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. take a bus from Oberammergau to Schloss Linderhof. Or you can take a train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and ascend the Zugspitze. allow some extra time to wander through the gardens. and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. If you’re without a car. Start Day 2 in a palace. Spend the night in Füssen. Make Neuschwanstein your top priority. Or make an easy excursion to beautiful Schloss Nymphenburg. have dinner at the fun-loving Hofbräuhaus. You need the entire morning to wander through the enormous Residenz in central Munich. choose another museum to visit. fit in a stroll in the bucolic Englischer Garten.5km (4-mile) trip to the castle. which you can reach by streetcar.40 Part I: Introducing Germany Asamkirche for a glimpse of the baroque ornamentation for which southern Germany is famous. Ludwig II’s Frenchinspired castle. visit adjacent Hohenschwangau Castle. You can dine near the parking area below Neuschwanstein. Wander through this small Bavarian town. the brand-new Pinakothek Moderne Kunst. On Day 4. as Germany’s most popular tourist attraction. you can make an easy excursion to the Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). the town closest to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles. In the afternoon. head to the Bavarian Alps. the trip takes a little more than an hour. which is famous for its woodcarvers. If you rent a car. If you’re without wheels. Munich’s largest and prettiest park. Special cog railways and cable cars can take you up and bring you back down. If you’re driving. or Füssen. .

western Berlin’s renowned boulevard. sophisticated Berlin has endless things to do. the symbol of the city. West Side: Germany in Two Weeks What a treat — two weeks to take in the sights! This suggested itinerary makes a clockwise circuit of Germany. and Museum Ludwig. for train information and schedules. and stop in at the Pergamon Museum or the Altes Museum with their fantastic collections of antiquities. and Weimar. The trip from Cologne is under 41⁄2 hours. check out Chapter 12 for Berlin and Potsdam. superfast trains to Berlin (the trains depart from the Cologne Hauptbahnhof. the new quarter where the Berlin Wall once stood. the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. Leipzig. You can also take a sightseeing boat ride along the Rhine. so when darkness falls you may want to attend an opera. Stay overnight in Cologne and have dinner at one of the city’s famous beer halls (be sure to sample Kölsch. the trip from Munich takes about 51⁄2 hours. Settle into your hotel and then take one of the sightseeing bus tours of the city — otherwise you’ll see only a fraction of this enormous metropolis. The city has an excellent music scene. Enjoy the afternoon in this lively Rhine-side city by visiting the cathedral and one or two of its many fine museums. or you can drive back to Munich and return it there. you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. make your way over to Potsdamer Platz. a concert.severin-kuehn-berlin. such as the Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). take one of the sleek. Chapter 15 for . From either city. too. call German Rail at % 11861). hop on the train and make your way to Köln (Cologne) for Day 5. Here’s hoping your flight home departs sometime in the afternoon on Day 7. and the Reichstag. Berlin is famed for its nightlife. Then walk east down Unter den Linden to Museumsinsel (Museum Island).000 years ago. so you can take advantage of the morning by going over to the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) to see the world-famous bust of Egyptian queen Nefertiti.) You’ll see Cologne’s greatest sight — the enormous Gothic Dom (cathedral) — as you step out of the train station. (By fast train. so you may want to see an opera or attend a concert. the country’s parliamentary headquarters. displaying old and modern masters. From Potsdamer Platz. contact Severin+Kühn. entirely devoted to 20th-century and contemporary art. Then stroll down the Ku-Damm. Take the elevator up to the new dome on top of the Reichstag — the dome is open late. you may be able to return the vehicle in Füssen. After your tour. dedicated to the Romans who made Cologne one of their strategic forts nearly 2.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 41 If you have your car for a two-day rental. Huge. For detailed information on the cities and sights that I mention. the fastest train from Füssen takes about 7 hours. To book a bus tour. Cologne’s delicious beer). or a cabaret. Chapter 14 for Dresden. before making your way to the airport. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. so come back later if the line is long. East Side. On the morning of Day 6.

Berlin is an enormous city. and wander into the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas’ Quarter) before you head up to the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) to visit the Pergamon Museum and/or the Altes Museum. for lunch or to find a cafe for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). the most famous boulevard in this part of the city. which includes a tour of Frederick the Great’s rococo palace and a walk through the landscaped grounds. you can walk to Friedrichstrasse. In Dresden. the upscale shopping street. Then spend a while strolling in the Tiergarten. the Residenzschloss.42 Part I: Introducing Germany Munich. is the starting point on Day 1 of your two-week tour of Deutschland. cabarets. a beautiful neoclassical square. so start the morning by taking one of the sightseeing bus tours. Spend the morning of Day 3 at Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam. variety shows. left as a colossal ruin after the devastation of World War II. Several museums are in and around the palace. Berlin’s most famous park. Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee. www. Have something fun lined up for the evening: Berlin has three opera houses. In the afternoon. Berlin. the . Devote your afternoon to exploring eastern Berlin. the most famous is the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum). the most historic part of the city. Spend Day 2 on the western side of the city. three major symphony orchestras. on the Elbe River about two hours south of Berlin by train. you see a different side of Germany (literally) in the eastern cities of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR).severin-kuehn-berlin. Plenty of entertainment options exist for the evening. which displays the stunning bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. Start at Potsdamer Platz. or take the S-Bahn (the city’s system of elevated trains) to Hackescher Markt. is one of the great art cities of Germany. Head over to the Charlottenburg neighborhood for a tour of Schloss (Palace) Charlottenburg and a stroll through the palace gardens. Eastern Berlin has numerous attractions: Make sure that you stop at the Gendarmenmarkt. of course. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. and Chapter 18 for Heidelberg and Nuremberg. Stop by the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church). which was ruled by the Communists until 1990. countless bars and Germany’s capital and largest city. and. walk to the Brandenburg Gate and head east down Unter den Linden. On Day 4. such as the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) or the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). Dresden. a pre–World War I quarter that now features several smart cafes and shops. the most famous boulevard in western Berlin. to book one. contact Severin+Kühn. a vast collection of treasures accrued by Saxon rulers. visit one of Berlin’s great museums. You can eat near the palace or back in Berlin. Head back to the Kurfürstendamm (known as Ku-Damm). an easy trip from Berlin by S-Bahn. Afterward. you want to focus your attention on the Albertinum. Chapter 16 for Bavaria and its castles. then head over to the Reichstag and take the elevator up to the new dome for a view of the city. You want to give yourself at least four hours for this excursion. From Museumsinsel.

the city’s main square. If you love symphonic music. Leipzig is a busy. hop on a train for Leipzig. East Germany’s secret police. where he is buried. a vaulted underground restaurant. is one of Germany’s literary meccas. Your destination for Day 7 is delightful Munich. you may want to take an excursion boat along the Elbe into the area known as Saxon Switzerland. From Leipzig. Not far from the city center. you won’t want to miss seeing a performance at the Semper Opera House. today. and the Bach Museum is dedicated to his life and works. In the early 20th century. portions of which have been left much as they were in his lifetime. Germany’s “secret capital. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and his friend. Weimar was one of Germany’s great centers of art and culture during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster of the famous Thomaskirche (St. Stay overnight in Weimar. a “city palace” near Goethe’s house. Weimar has its dark side. Choose a museum you’d especially like to visit: Most visitors make the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters . is the Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial). the great German dramatist Friedrich Schiller.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 43 new home of the famed treasury known as the Green Vault. too. The city has two unusual museums that shed light on the GDR era: The Museum in der Runden Ecke documents the methods of the dreaded Stasi. lived here. only an hour away. If you’re an opera lover.” With only two days. fast trains take less than an hour to reach Weimar. which reopened in 2006 after being painstakingly restored. From Dresden on Day 5. Thomas Church). Otherwise (or afterward). This small. and the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) examines all aspects of life in the GDR from 1945 to 1989. pretty city. a restored royal palace that is home to four museums. the most important being the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery). the journey takes about five hours. filled with leafy parks and neoclassical buildings. is the town’s most visited 41⁄2-hour trips take place daily. the town’s liveliest square. the next stop on this itinerary. on the site of a Nazi-era concentration camp. Spend the night in Dresden. In 2005. the Bauhaus School of Art and Design operated in Weimar. Make it a point to see the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). and the Zwinger. Visit the scene of Duchess Anna Amalia’s glittering salons in the Wittumspalais. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe’s House). bustling city with a long musical tradition. From April through September. Start your explorations at Marienplatz. be sure to reserve a seat to hear the worldfamous Gewandhaus Orchestra. the Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) moved into a building close to Marktplatz. your destination for Day 6. you can visit the small Bauhaus Museum. Enjoy a dinner of regional food in the famous Auerbachs Keller. you have to make some decisions about what to see. 3. or take the train to Munich. and then head over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt to wander through this wonderland of an outdoor market.

But first. and a famous casino. You have innumerable ways to spend the evening in this cultural mecca: opera. and its cuckoo clocks. At night. is one of the most popular museums in the country. pop concerts. From Munich or Füssen. This wine town has vineyards nearby and yearly wine festivals. take in another museum. Start Day 8 with a self-guided tour of the Residenz. you can happily spend a few hours strolling through old streets lined by Bächle (little streams). or Black Forest. Give yourself some leeway with time because the crowds can be dense. the country’s largest lake and one of the largest bodies of water in Europe. Then. from Munich make your way to Füssen. so just take it easy. Munich’s gigantic “in town” palace. the trip to Lindau for Day 10 is about three hours by train. If you have a car. Lindau’s sunny charms are reminiscent of Italy. Some small Bavarian village with a cozy Gasthaus (guesthouse) may catch your fancy. if the afternoon is fine. visit the nearby Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). resort-oriented town offers fine hotels and restaurants. about 11⁄2 hours farther north by train. beer gardens. Stay overnight in Munich. is one of Germany’s premier spa towns. . stroll in the lovely Englischer Garten and stop for a drink or a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. Baden-Baden. Stay overnight in Munich. and mountains in the southwestern corner of Germany is famed for its health resorts. Germany’s sunny southwestern corner comes as a surprise to many visitors. your destination on Day 11. You can also visit neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle. The area has no important museums. In Freiburg. its hiking and recreational sports facilities. sample one of the city’s many entertainment options. travel time is about the same. or Lake Constance. or taking a boat ride on the lake to the garden island of Mainau. you may want to consider renting a car for the next four days. Take your pick of cities to stay in. Spend the day strolling in the sun (if the sun cooperates). a world-famous baroque masterpiece. beer halls. and clubs. The charming and lively university town of Freiburg is about three hours by train from Lindau. Here you find the Bodensee. By car or train. 6. many expensive shops. You need at least two hours to visit the entire complex. exploring the Bavarian Alps along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse (German Alpine Road). you can continue on to Lindau. This upscale. valleys. swimming. This scenic area of forested hills. If you opt for Baden-Baden. After lunch near Marienplatz. Even if you’re driving from Füssen. devoted to science and industry.44 Part I: Introducing Germany Gallery) their top priority. stay overnight in Füssen or return to Munich. sitting under an umbrella at a cafe. where Ludwig spent his childhood. On Day 9.5km (4 miles) from the most famous tourist attraction in all of Germany: Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle. but the Deutsches Museum. You’ve no doubt heard about the Schwarzwald. but doing so is not essential. enjoy a stroll through Füssen’s lovely historic quarter. If you’re without a car. symphony. Freiburg’s lovely Münster (cathedral) and its surrounding square constitute the main sights in town. If you have a car. theater.

Give yourself at least two hours to visit the marvelous Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum).Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 45 be sure to “take the waters” at Friedrichsbad. If you have time in any of these cities before your flight departs. one of the most attractive towns in Germany. . which is less than an hour by train from Baden-Baden or 21⁄2 to 3 hours from Freiburg. where your tour began. You find squares with lovely fountains. The castle is mostly in ruins. No kid I know wants to spend two hours wandering around a museum admiring old master paintings. make your way to Heidelberg. especially on a warm evening when your table is in the courtyard near the fountain. and fine Gothic churches. The museum’s restaurant is one of the nicest places to dine in Heidelberg. or visiting a castle — appeal to kids just because of the novelty. Some hotels let children stay for free in their parents’ room. hop on the Bahn (train) in Heidelberg and in 31⁄2 to 4 hours. a 125-year-old mineralbath establishment. the experience takes about 31⁄2 hours. And then. formal restaurant awaiting the main course. Find a cafe to sit and people-watch while you plan your next trip to Germany. as it’s known in English). to catch your flight home. Stop in at the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate) for a look at Tilman Riemenschneider’s powerfully carved altarpiece. On Day 13. just wander around without an itinerary. you’re in Nürnberg (or Nuremberg. On Day 14. stop at the Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) for a glimpse of the toys for which this city has long been famous. Then take a relaxing boat ride down the Neckar. You face difficulties in the basic areas of food choices and sightseeing options. for example. the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). The Altstadt (Old Town) is where you want to stay and where you want to wander. Everyone seems to love this ancient university town on the Neckar River. a little more than two hours by train from Nuremberg. at the ones that don’t. you can fly home from Frankfurt. Discovering Germany with Kids Face it: Traveling with kids isn’t easy. or from Munich. a picturesque area alongside the Pegnitz River. I slant this very general itinerary toward outdoor activities and give other options only when they seem relevant. The train ride from Nuremberg is about 51⁄2 hours. On Day 12. the entire Altstadt is a pedestrian zone. under two hours from Nuremberg. Hike or take the funicular train up the hillside to the famed Heidelberg Castle for a stunning view of the town and the river valley. but you can take a tour of some restored rooms. head back to Berlin. Luckily. As in many German cities. if you’re in the mood.) Sit back and enjoy the scenery. (Alternatively. some aspects of traveling in Germany — taking a train. which covers the entire spectrum of German fine arts from its prehistoric beginnings to the present day. or seated in a quiet. you can pay a few euros more and request an extra bed. When it comes time to eat.

with formal.960m/9. with easy access and reduced rates for kids. Later. Stay overnight in Garmisch. the area around Garmisch-Partenkirchen is magnificent hiking country. By car or train make your way to Lindau. the largest science and technology museum in the world. the best outdoor market in Germany and a great place to have a casual lunch. If you didn’t make it to the Deutsches Museum the day before.720 ft. the other kind are not. where you can wander along the tree-shaded walks. Public transportation is a priority in every German city. Spend Day 1 in Munich. while there. Germany’s mostvisited tourist attraction perches on a rocky spur that requires a good uphill hike to reach.). If you’re a dedicated hiker. head over to the kid-friendly Deutsche Museum. or sit in the famous beer garden (nonalcoholic refreshments available for the kids). but some of them are shorter and easy enough for children. You also can reach the castle by bus or horse-drawn cab. you can rent a car or take the train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps south of Munich. Alternatively. On Day 3. A cog railway and a cable car take you up and bring you back — a fascinating treat for kids. French-style gardens behind the palace and an English-style park with quiet meadows. forested paths. The area around . Good skiing and ice-skating are available all winter. the city’s main square. Bodensee (Lake Constance) is your destination for Day 5. so you and the kids can easily walk everywhere. Most hikes take an energetic four to five hours. You can find plenty of outdoor cafes around Marienplatz. It’s loaded with interesting stuff for kids and adults. be sure to catch the Glockenspiel show at 11 a. dance in the meadows. The view from the summit is — what else? — spectacular. including an 18th-century swimming pool and a baroque hunting lodge. on the spire of the Rathaus.46 Part I: Introducing Germany look for casual bistros. On Day 2. cafes. The Schloss (palace) is a breeze to get to (it’s right in the city on the streetcar line). “Mad” Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle. or even outdoor food stands (yes. you’ll also find American-style fast-food restaurants in all midsize and large cities). a sunny flower-filled resort town that sits on its own small island in the Bodensee. and some intriguing buildings. and 500-acre Nymphenburg Park is grand and inviting. one of the largest and most beautiful city parks in Europe. Just remember one thing: Wellbehaved children are smiled upon in Germany. Drive or take the train to Füssen on Day 4. The entire inner city is a car-free pedestrian zone where you and your kids can stroll with ease. Here you’re going to ascend the Zugspitze. and then drive or take a bus to Neuschwanstein. Right next to Marienplatz is the Viktualienmarkt. The forested hills all around Neuschwanstein and neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle are full of excellent hiking paths. Schloss Nymphenburg is on the top of your list. Stay overnight in Füssen and explore the charming old town on foot. you can head over there in the afternoon.m. you may want to take a train or subway over to the Englischer Garten (English Garden). Lindau is virtually car-free. Germany’s highest peak (2.

the toast often is a simple “Prosit!” (pronounced prohst). you can explore the neighboring wine country. Most of the grapes grow on the warm lower slopes of the nearby Kaiserstühl (Emperor’s Throne). the city celebrates with a four-day wine festival that includes public tastings. You can bike along the shore or relax on an excursion boat ride to the island of Mainau. If you’re traveling by train. you can stop at two Black Forest lakes. The train trip from Freiburg takes about four hours. with stops for short hikes and cable-car rides to the top of the Belchen. dine at Zum Roten Bären. On Day 7 make your way back to Frankfurt or Munich for the trip home. and to the 1.600 acres of vineyards. the oldest inn in Freiburg. light Silvaner wine is an ideal accompaniment to Spargel (white asparagus) in May.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 47 Bodensee is Germany’s sunniest corner. a volcanic massif. the Schluchsee and Titisee.750-ft. Weinkost is another wine-tasting event in mid-August. a lively university town in the Black Forest. you can hop on a train on Day 1 and be in Freiburg in about two hours. see Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee and Chapter 19 for Cologne and sights along the Rhine. You may want to incorporate this four-day itinerary into a longer trip.450m (4. This itinerary takes you to the wine regions in western Germany. Ride the train or drive north to Freiburg. southwest of Cologne. On the last weekend in June.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. a famous mile-high peak with spectacular views of the Rhine plain. From Frankfurt airport. your headquarters in the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) on Day 6. The trip begins and ends in Frankfurt. The young. more than any other city in Germany. Or you can take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz. Or you may want to rent a car in Frankfurt for the duration of the trip. How about that — the kids actually had a good time! Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers When you raise a glass of wine in Germany. is surrounded by 1. On this drive. wine has been produced since Roman times. by car or boat. Rheingau Rieslings rank among the best white wines made anywhere. In the Rheingau wine district. Spend the night in Lindau. a plant-lover’s paradise. The valley follows the course of . is another scenic winegrowing region and your destination on Day 3. a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine between the towns of Biebrich and Bingen. Head to Cologne on the River Rhine for Day 2. For a great meal with regional wines. a scenic winegrowing region. The Mosel Valley. For more information. From Freiburg you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Schwarzwald. I suggest that you rent a car for just one day. and the lake is clean enough for swimming. From Cologne. Freiburg. You can drive through this area on a daytrip from Cologne.

Beautiful scenery and fine wines make this a prime area for leisurely exploration. both a hotel and a wine restaurant. you can continue your tasting tour of Germany. Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. cruises depart daily from Koblenz to Cochem. From Cochem. If you have a few more days. Wherever you go. which takes place the first week in June. . look for the local Weinstube (wine tavern). is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. a convivial spot to sample Germany’s many fine vintages. The easiest way to enjoy a cruise down the Mosel River is to take a train to Koblenz. celebrates the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. or Freiburg. make your way back to Frankfurt on Day 4.48 Part I: Introducing Germany the Mosel River for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. Between late April and the third week in October. Cologne. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). a picturesque wine village surrounded by vineyards and a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. The half-timbered Alte Thorschenke in Cochem.

Part II Planning Your Trip to Germany .

using cellphones and staying connected by e-mail in Germany. and how to get the best fare. I go over the transportation options for getting you to Germany. I load Chapter 10 with information about getting a passport. guided and package tours. his part helps you with the practical details of planning your trip to Germany. buying travel and medical insurance.T In this part . . and boat. money — so you have an approximate idea of what things cost and how to use ATMs. explaining what hotel rack rates are. In Chapter 5. including information on which airlines fly into Germany. I discuss all the various accommodations options. In Chapter 9. In Chapter 6. car. and offering suggestions for landing the best room at the best price. seniors. I offer advice and tips for visitors with special needs and interests: families traveling with children. outlining the kinds of hotels and guesthouses that you’ll find. I tell you about traveling through Germany by train. or traveler’s checks. plane. I get into the nittygritty of Geld — that is. gay and lesbian travelers. In Chapter 8. and adhering to airport security measures. and Jewish travelers. credit cards. In Chapter 7. . .

But can you really afford the trip? At this point. San Francisco. for instance? And how much is a meal in a nice restaurant after you get there? This chapter points you toward all the answers. you want to go to Germany. So this chapter is all about Geld (pronounced gelt. You may have heard that Germany is an expensive country — but just how expensive? What does a hotel in Munich cost? How much does a train ticket cost for travel from Berlin down to Bavaria. Transportation costs Your first big outlay is going to be for airfare. your trip to Germany — even if you visit Munich and/or Berlin. the two most expensive German cities — can actually cost less than a trip to New York. To come up with a workable figure. I tell you about flying to Germany and help you with some strategies for finding . you often can find bargain airfares to Frankfurt and Munich. you need to break down your trip into its various components: airfare. You’re excited and eager to pack. hotels. meaning money).Chapter 5 Managing Your Money In This Chapter ᮣ Planning a realistic budget for your trip ᮣ Changing your dollars into euros ᮣ Using ATMs. Although you may think a trip to Germany is prohibitively expensive because of the transatlantic flight. entertainment. and so on. In the following sections. Planning Your Budget Planning a budget for your trip to Germany isn’t as difficult as you may think. the two German airports with several direct international flights. Adding everything up. and credit cards ᮣ Dealing with theft and loss ᮣ Paying and recouping German sales tax ᮣ Knowing when — and how — to tip S o. or Los Angeles. a financial reality check is in order. I provide vital clues on how to create a realistic budget that works for you. meals. In Chapter 6. transportation while there. traveler’s checks.

you can hop on a bus or tram. round-trip fare from a major city on the West Coast of the U. 800-361-7245 in Canada. Many larger cities have special passes that include public transportation and free or reduced-price admission to various attractions. to Frankfurt is possible for about $600 to $900 during low season and $800 to $1. I mention these moneysaving cards in the city sections of this guide whenever they’re available and worthwhile. That saves you a bundle. for Neuschwanstein) to the castle. From New York or Boston. you probably can find flights for $400 to $800 in low season and $700 to $1. Finding flights that cost less is quite possible.52 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the cheapest airline fares. You can also tour by train throughout the whole of Germany without ever renting a car. convenient. U-Bahns are fast. If you don’t want to walk. Hamburg.200 during high season. The same cities also have light-rail or aboveground trains called the S-Bahn and a system of trams or streetcars and buses. I talk more about these cost-cutting train passes and the popular Eurailpass in Chapter 7. Munich. Please note that these are ballpark figures for economy-class seats found by using every cost-saving trick in the book. you can walk almost everywhere.raileurope. . having a car makes exploration of the countryside much easier.S. but so is finding flights that cost a whole lot more. and easy to because city centers are so compact and close to the train stations. including advance purchase. you may need to take a local bus or taxi from the nearest town (Füssen. Berlin. Keep in mind. The next transportation expense to consider is dependent upon how you plan to travel around Germany after you arrive. The passes make getting around German cities fairly inexpensive (approximately $6–$8 per day). Special reduced-price transportation passes are good for a full day (Tageskarten) or longer on all forms of public transportation. If you’re traveling by train and want to see some of Germany’s great castles. The historic inner-city area of German cities nearly always is called the Altstadt. Based on my own experience. or by going online to www. I can tell you that finding a nonstop. such as Bavaria and the Black Forest. such as Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. and Cologne all have subway systems called the U-Bahn (short for Untergrundbahn.000 in high season. or underground train). Frankfurt. you can save money by buying a German Rail Pass before you leave home. If you’re planning to travel around Germany by train. that in some areas. or Old Town. Here’s some good news: You won’t need to rent a car in any German city because public transportation is so good. You can order them through a travel agent or by calling Rail Europe at % 888-382-7245 in the United States. however. In smaller towns and cities of Germany.

Moderate hotels run from 126€ to 175€ ($158–$218). large cities like Berlin and Munich have emerged as international food capitals.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 53 Lodging expenses A large piece of your budget will be the cost of your hotel or other accommodations. See Chapter 8 for information on what to expect in each price range and for a discussion of your lodging options and how to get the best rate. Munich. is going to cost. After that. you hit the high end of 226€ ($282) and up. or some other kind of nonfancy restaurant where you can dine inexpensively and well and where you can enjoy your meal among the locals. and a full dinner at bargain prices. . however. a beer hall. including breakfast. however. eating at top restaurants. lunch. offer bed. hotels offer special price breaks for weekends (Wochenende) and during the summer (generally July and Aug). and expensive hotels cost from 176€ to 225€ ($220–$281). for instance. especially in some of the truly elegant five-star properties. giving a reliable average is difficult. no matter where you are. hotel rates are lower. and elsewhere offer special fixed-price meals that can be real bargains. Food in Germany often is characterized as heavy. you’ll find that hotels throughout Germany are reasonably priced (and practically a bargain when compared to prices in other European countries). depending on their respective government-appointed categories (1-star. 2-star. breakfast. But you can still find plenty of opportunities to drop a king’s ransom for a hotel. For the recommendations in this guide. the rates at inexpensive hotels in Munich or Berlin. Make sure to ask about special deals wherever you stay. Although that may be true. In some cases. Many hotels in the Bavarian countryside. As a general rule. you can always find a double room in a good hotel in Germany for less than 150€ ($188) a night and sometimes for less than 100€ ($125) a night. but you’ll find that many of the best restaurants in Berlin. a Weinstube (restaurant where wine is the primary beverage served). isn’t the only cuisine you’ll find in Germany. and so on). Overall. That cost will be higher in Munich and Berlin than anywhere else in Germany. Traditional food. generally are less than 125€ ($156). generally from 80€ to 150€ ($100–$188) per double room per night. the price drops so dramatically that you can stay in a double room at a five-star luxury hotel for less than 175€ ($219) per night. you can find a Ratskeller (restaurant beneath a town hall). Of course. the major cities. however. Outside of Munich and Berlin. traditional German food also is ganz schmackhaftig (very tasty). Nearly all hotels throughout Germany (except for boutique or 5-star luxury hotels) include a buffet breakfast as part of the room rate. In recent years. In nearly every town and village throughout Germany. Throughout the country. But because rates vary from one hotel to the next.

depending on the duration of the trip. expect to pay from 3€ to 5€ ($2.50–$9) anywhere in the country. dinner for two at a good. In fact. And some of the top sights — such as the Reichstag in Berlin or the Frauenkirche and Englischer Garten in Munich — are free. Munich. But remember. or viewing the Brandenburg Gate. food is more expensive in big cities like Berlin and Munich. Throughout most of Germany. the Bavarian castle that is Germany’s top attraction. exploring by foot in almost any German town is a good way to soak up the local culture free of charge. Sightseeing boat excursions typically are 8€ to 15€ ($10–$19). on what you want to see. and you’re content with coffee and a roll at a stand-up counter (or a Starbucks). unless you splurge on really high-priced restaurants. When eating lunch and dinner at moderately priced restaurants in Berlin. Strolling down Berlin’s great avenues. and back again. As a general rule. mid-priced restaurant averages about 28€ ($35) including beer. of course. Most cable cars cost much less. and that doesn’t include beer or wine. and you can hit the sack right after dinner instead of going to a concert or dancing at a club. Outside of Berlin or Munich. a buffet breakfast nearly always is included in your hotel cost.75–$6.54 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany As with hotels. Hamburg.50€ to 7€ ($4. sightseeing in Germany is fairly inexpensive. Finding a museum that costs more than 8€ ($10) is rare. Only at luxury hotels do you have to pay extra for breakfast — usually 18€ to 22€ ($22–$27) — but the buffet breakfast invariably is fabulous. expect your daily food cost to be about 25€ to 40€ ($31–$50). If you eat breakfast at a cafe rather than your hotel. Fortunately. You know what . expect to pay about 3. generally around 5€ ($6.25) for admission to museums and local attractions outside of the big cities. you can often get a reducedprice admission. In some locations. The most expensive ride is to the top of the Zugspitze. Sightseeing expenses Your budget for admission fees depends. for example — sell special “Welcome” cards that get you into several museums for a reduced rate. Admission to Neuschwanstein. Germany’s highest mountain. In addition.25) round-trip. the cost for adults is 45€ ($56). you can expect to pay from 35€ to 50€ ($44–$62) per person per day (assuming your hotel rate includes breakfast). Afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) sets you back about 7€ or 8€ ($9 or $10) anywhere in Germany. costs only 8€ ($10). if you’re a senior or a student. You don’t have to buy anything at all. Kurfürstendamm or Unter den Linden. The major cities — Berlin. City sightseeing tours by bus cost from 10€ to 24€ ($13–$30). is kostenlos (free). Shopping and nightlife costs Shopping and entertainment are the most flexible parts of your budget. the top attraction is a cable car that can whisk you to the top of a famous peak for a spectacular view.

so you may want to check out the club scene while you’re there.40) (continued) Kaffee und kuchen at a cafe or stand-up coffee shop ($) Large glass of beer at a cafe.50€ ($4.75) 6€–8€ ($7. Berlin.10). or tavern .80€ ($7. excluding wine. is a late-night city. especially. cover charges are rarely more than 5€ ($6. bar. and an opera ticket in either Berlin or Munich anywhere from 10€ to 80€ ($13–$100).50) 20€ ($25) 2. at Marjellchen ($$–$$$) Meal for one. but drinks other than beer can be pricey. (Keep in mind that a small beer sets you back about 2. at Noodle ($–$$) Cafe meal for one at Café Silberstein ($) Sausage at a stand-up snack stand ($) 115€–150€ ($144–$187) 65€–97€ ($111–$121) 60€ ($75) 30€ ($37) 15€ ($19) 10€ ($13) 3€ ($3. At mid-price and luxury hotels you can almost always find a lower rate that the one listed here simply by checking the hotel’s Web site and booking in advance. excluding wine.25) 330€–490€ ($412–$612) Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by bus Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by taxi One-way U-Bahn (subway) fare within central Berlin Tageskarte one-day public transportation pass for two zones Double room without breakfast at Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) Double room with breakfast at Brandenburger Hof ($$$$) 245€–295€ ($306–$369) Double room with breakfast at Hotel Domus ($$–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Arco Hotel ($–$$) Dinner for one. Table 5-1 Item What Things Cost in Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 2.50–$10) 3.10€ ($2. budget accordingly. the highest undiscounted rate charged by a hotel.25). excluding wine. If anything strikes you as something you can’t do without. at Die Quadriga ($$$$) Dinner for one.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 55 you want.50) 5. a glass of good German wine about 5€ ($6.10€ ($2. Keep in mind that the hotel rates I quote here are rack rates. Tables 5-1 and 5-2 give you an idea of what things typically cost in Berlin and the rest of the country. Flip through the shopping and nightlife options of each destination chapter.25).50€ ($3.

Dresden ($) Fixed-price dinner for one. at Der Kleine Prinz. at Hofbräuhaus. Bavaria . Munich ($$$–$$$$) Fixed-price dinner for one. Munich ($) Admission to Neuschwanstein Castle. Freiburg ($$$) Dinner for one. Lindau ($) Double room with breakfast at Eden-Hotel-Wolf. ticket good for same-day admission to several other museums Admission to the Altes or Pergamon Museum (one ticket good for both on same day) Admission to Charlottenburg Palace and palace museums Opera ticket Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 23€–75€ ($29–$94) Table 5-2 Item What Things Cost Outside Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 50€ ($62)/34€ ($40) 151€ ($189)/96€ ($120) 190€–215€ ($237–$269) 90€–170€ ($112–$212) 86€–92€ ($107–$115) 139€–282€ ($174–$352) 57€–75€ ($71–$94) 12€ ($15) 35€–43€ ($44–$54) 20€ ($25) 8€ ($10) First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Dresden First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Munich Double room with breakfast at Der Kleine Prinz. Baden-Baden ($$$–$$$$) Double room with breakfast at Burg Hotel. including one glass of beer. at Zum Röten Bären. Baden-Baden ($$$$) Lunch for one. at Café Schinkelwache.56 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Table 5-1 (continued) Item Admission to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). excluding wine. Rothenburg ob der Tauber ($–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Hotel-Garni Brugger. excluding beer. excluding wine.

Munich. Because more rooms are available. If you can travel on a Tuesday. AARP. Here are some additional cost-cutting strategies: ߜ Go during the off season. frequent-flier plans.75) 25€–80€ ($31–$100) 29€ ($36) 5. In general. Dresden Complete bath and massage treatment at Friedrichsbad. airline. Baden-Baden Average losses at gambling tables. Semper Opera House. or packager — and you’ll pay much less than if you tried to put the trip together yourself (see Chapter 6). The same is true for July and August.000€ ($6. Munich Opera ticket. you’ll find hotel prices are as much as 20 percent less than during peak months. you may find cheaper flights to Frankfurt. ground transportation.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money Item Admission to Zwinger Palace (all museums).250) 70€ ($87) Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun Throughout this book. If you can travel at off-season times (Oct–Nov and Jan–Mar). For popular destinations like Frankfurt and Munich. Membership in AAA. Munich Adult/child admission to Deutsches Museum (Science and Industry). ߜ Try a package tour. or other groups may qualify you for discounts on . which means more beds are available in German hotels. airfares vary depending on the day of the week and even the hour you fly. or Thursday. Sound odd? Not really. prices go down. economy car 57 10€ ($13) 4€ ($5) Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8. ߜ Travel on off days of the week.50€ ($10)/3€ ($3. Wednesday. Germans tend to travel outside of Germany on their holidays. Baden-Baden Tank of unleaded gas. hotel. Dresden Admission to Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery). or Berlin. you can book airfare. be sure to ask whether you can get a cheaper rate by flying on a specific day. which are peak travel months for Germans but often a time of lower hotel prices. Bargain Alert icons (like the one in the left margin) highlight money-saving tips and/or great deals. ߜ Always ask for discount rates. and even some sightseeing by making just one call to a travel agent. Generalizing about airfares is difficult because the entire industry is changing all the time. When you inquire about airfares.

1€. Handling Money In January 2002. ߜ Ask if your kids can stay in your room with you. Most German cities are compact and eminently walkable. ߜ Travel second class. A room with two double beds usually doesn’t cost any more than one with a queensize bed. ߜ Know the advantages and disadvantages of buying a rail pass before you leave home. hotel rooms. and the trinkets sold at major tourist attractions. many hotels in Germany offer special price breaks on weekends or midweek during the off season. prices at lunch are lower than those at dinner. 10¢. Notes are . 20¢. 50¢. and you can explore at a slower pace. ߜ Ask about weekend. and the menu often includes many of the dinnertime specialties. Your photographs and memories make the best mementos of your trip. Coins come in denominations of 1¢. 2¢. key chains. As a bonus. car rentals. 5¢. ߜ Skip the souvenirs. Germany’s unit of currency changed from the Deutsche Mark to the euro. A good pair of walking shoes can save you money on taxis and other local transportation. beer steins. buying your local train tickets in Germany is cheaper. First-class train tickets generally cost about one-third more than standard second-class tickets. children. cuckoo clocks. And many hotels won’t charge you the additional-person rate when that person is pint-size and related to you. do without the T-shirts. To encourage year-round tourism. Attractions within Germany usually offer a lower admission rate for seniors. that contains most of the attractions and is within walking distance of the train station. and 2€. midweek. Each usually has a historic Altstadt. If you’re worried about your budget. and students with ID. One euro is divided into one hundred cents. or Old Town. Regardless of where you travel in Germany. and off-season special offers. always look for value-added fixed-price menus. (See Chapter 8 for some recommended Web sites. Surfing the Web is the best way to find out about special packages at specific hotels.58 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany plane tickets. If you’re headquartering in one city and making side trips to nearby towns. you get to know the city and its inhabitants more intimately. Sometimes these special rates are offered as romantic getaway packages and include dinner and a glass of wine. and guided tours booked before you go. The amount of money you save with a rail pass depends on how often you use it and how far you go. That’s what the Germans do. At most top restaurants in Berlin and Munich. Bavarian hats. you save a bundle by not taking two rooms.) ߜ Try expensive restaurants at lunch rather than dinner. Even if you have to pay a few extra euros for a rollaway bed. ߜ Walk a lot.

In German cities. train stations. In addition. the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own ATM fee. As with any unfamiliar currency. Charging ahead with credit cards Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses. Make sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave At some banks. call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. check the back of your ATM card for the network to which your bank belongs. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad. You also can check currency conversions online at www. and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. price is less than $10. It usually takes five to seven business days. In general. I round it off to the nearest nickel. and weights according to value. then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. euros take a bit of getting used to. many banks now assess a 1 percent to 3 percent “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency). If you’ve forgotten yours. shapes. www. and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. The coins have different sizes. I use this approximate exchange rate for prices in this book. the amount you can withdraw must be in a checking (not a savings) and PLUS (% 800-8437587.) When you’re about to leave on your trip. 100. check with your bank or look in the newspaper to find out the current rate. or didn’t even know you had one. You also can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs. (If the U. 1€ = $1. 50. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you . Each bank-note denomination has its own color. 200. Using ATMs and carrying cash The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an automated teller machine (ATM). you find 24-hour ATMs (often called Geldautomat) in are the most popular networks. and 500 denominations. 10. to the nearest dollar. if more than $10. 20. provided you know your PIN. The exchange rate. Cirrus (% 800-424-7787. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time your card is used at a different bank’s ATM. though some banks provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal and outside banks.25. and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. www. which fluctuates daily.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 59 available in 5.S.mastercard. is the rate you get when you use your own currency to buy euros.

Banks generally are open weekdays from 8:30 a. post offices countrywide. all major rail stations. and American Express offices.m. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling % 800-221-7282.60 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany factor in things like high ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates and service fees. $50. Currencyexchange windows in airports and rail stations generally are open daily from 6 a. $100. AAA members can get Visa checks for a $9. $100. $50. and 2:30 to 4 p. to 1 p. Some credit-card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges. Call % 800-732-1322 for information. Changing your currency in Germany You can easily change cash or traveler’s checks by using a currency-exchange service called a Geldwechsel or bureau de change.m. traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that enable you to withdraw (usually for a fee) small amounts of cash as needed. The service charge ranges between 1. These services are available in German airports. you can always call the card’s toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused — a good reason to carry the phone number with you. so having a backup is the smart way to go.000. and $1. . $500. Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the service charge. American Express offers denominations of $20. checks come in denominations of $20.m. and (for cardholders only) $1. a card may not work for any number of reasons. Call % 800-223-9920 for a location near you. $500. You pay a service charge ranging from 1 percent to 4 percent. many pensions (B&Bs) with one to three guest rooms operate on a cash-only basis. Cashing traveler’s checks is more timeconsuming and can end up costing more because you must go to a bank or money-exchange service and pay a check-cashing fee. In smaller German towns and villages. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks.95 fee at most AAA offices or by calling % 866-339-3378. many tourist information offices. Even if you don’t call your credit-card company in advance.m. to 10 p. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. Toting traveler’s checks These days. any branch of a major bank.000. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide and at several other banks.m.5 percent and 2 percent. as do some restaurants.

com). www. Hamburg. You can find addresses for American Express offices throughout Germany at Cologne.experian.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 61 If you choose to carry traveler’s checks. transunion. you can have money wired to you via Western Union (% 800-325-6000. among other cities. and Munich. be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in case they’re stolen or lost.equifax. For addresses of Citibanks in Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately. . Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet. Heidelberg. www. Frankfurt.citibank. Leipzig. You can avoid paying a second commission fee by using American Express traveler’s checks and cashing them at an American Express office. Citibank customers using ATMs at German branches of Citibank don’t pay additional withdrawal fees. Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet Be sure to contact all your credit-card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. Find Citibank branches in Berlin. placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. Most credit-card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen. when all banks and American Express offices are closed. American Express has offices in Berlin. Dresden. Your credit-card company or insurer may require a police-report number or record of the loss. Leipzig. call the following numbers: ߜ American Express % 954-503-8850 (collect) ߜ MasterCard % 0800/819-1040 (toll-free) ߜ Visa % 0800/811-8440 (toll-free) or 417-581-9994 (collect) For other credit cards. Hamburg. Experian (% 888-3973742. If your credit card gets lost or stolen while you’re in and TransUnion (% 800-680-7289. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (% 800-766-0008. and Munich. call the toll-free number directory at % 800-5551212. Cologne. especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID. and file a report at the nearest police precinct. The three major U. go online to www.westernunion. call your airline and explain the situation. www. Finally. the airline may allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve americanexpress. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers. www. If you need emergency cash during the

amounts to 16 percent. This hefty percentage already is figured into the total prices of consumer goods and hotel and restaurant bills. located at all major airports. or round up to the next euro. and railroad stations. Germany isn’t a country where you must tip excessively. you’re staying in an expensive hotel with porters who carry your bags (1€/$1. Most stores have a minimum amount that you must spend to qualify for the refund. service charges are included in the bill. When you make a qualifying purchase. redeem the voucher for cash (euros or dollars) at a Europe Tax-Free Shopping window. you can get a VAT refund on purchases made in Germany (excluding hotel and restaurant bills). A Tip about Tipping As a general rule. have the voucher stamped by German Customs to confirm that the goods have been exported. Otherwise. Before checking your luggage upon your departure from Germany.25 per successful hail). shop at stores displaying a Tax-Free Shopping sign. .62 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Taking Taxes into Account Germany’s version of a sales tax. ferry ports. In restaurants. and you can’t avoid paying it. Then. unless.25 per bag carried) and doormen who hail you a cab (1€/$1. you can add 5 percent to 10 percent to your bill. which must be completed by the store and must have a copy of your sales receipt attached to it.) This tax isn’t a hidden expense. called the Mehrwertsteuer (abbreviated MWST) or value-added tax (abbreviated VAT). If you’re not a resident of the European Union. border crossings. To receive a refund. (The general hotel and restaurant prices in this book include VAT. of course. if the service has been very good. you receive a tax-free voucher.

See the appendix at the back of this book for a list of the main international carriers with direct flights into Germany from the United States. Copenhagen. Newark. Portland (Oregon). has direct flights to Frankfurt from Atlanta. . Germany’s national carrier (now partnered with United Airlines and Air Canada). Munich. but direct flights from the United States fly only into Frankfurt. Detroit. that is). Paris. Berlin (one flight only). Germany has several airports. and Düsseldorf. is Germany’s main international hub. Stuttgart. I discuss getting you to Germany. Houston. Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where In Germany. and Australia.. or London. Canada. and other cities in Germany. You also can fly to Cologne. these routes require a change of planes — usually in Frankfurt. What are your options for direct. but if you’re coming from the United States. New York JFK. Philadelphia. the United Kingdom. Dallas/Fort Worth. Nuremberg. you’re going to need to find a way to hop across that little puddle called the Atlantic. Flying into Frankfurt Frankfurt airport.C. D. Miami. Chicago. Los Angeles. an airport is called a Flughafen (floog-haf-en). nonstop flights? How can you save money on your flight (and your hotel)? What are the pros and cons of taking an escorted tour? You find answers to your basic travel questions here. The following airlines offer direct flights: ߜ Lufthansa. Boston. and Washington. San Francisco.Chapter 6 Getting to Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Deciding which German city to fly into ᮣ Saving on airfare and booking online ᮣ Arriving in Germany by train or boat ᮣ Joining an escorted tour ᮣ Finding out how a package tour can save you money N ow that you’ve decided to visit Deutschland (Germany. called Flughafen Frankfurt Main. and from Toronto and Vancouver. In this chapter. Amsterdam.

ߜ Qantas flies to Frankfurt from Melbourne and Sydney. ߜ British Airways flies direct to Frankfurt from London. I give you more specific information about how to get into the city from the airport. especially Dresden. Chicago. and Washington. See Chapter 15 for more about flying into Munich. In each city section of this guide. is Germany’s second-largest airport.C. Flying into other German airports Here’s a brief rundown of other major airports in Germany and some of the airlines that fly into them. you can easily reach other cities in eastern Germany by train. D. Boston. so you can fly in. Chicago. D. Chicago. ߜ Munich: Franz Josef Strauss International Airport. ߜ Northwest Airlines (partnered with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines) flies nonstop to Frankfurt from Boston. located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. Australia.C. For more information on the Frankfurt airport. see Chapter 20. Although no direct flights are scheduled from the U. and San Francisco. British Airways and British Midland fly direct to Cologne from the United Kingdom. ߜ Delta Air Lines has daily nonstops from Newark and Atlanta.. Opened in 1992. ߜ Cologne: Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn is a good spot to land whenever you’re planning to tour western Germany and the Rhineland wine country. Lufthansa flies nonstop to Munich from Newark. The airport has its own train station. Minneapolis/St. this airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world (completely accessible for the disabled). Flights to other cities in Germany from Frankfurt rarely take more than 11⁄2 hours. Delta flies nonstop from Atlanta. Delta currently is the only airline that flies direct to Berlin from New York.S. and you’re close to Hamburg and the northern Hanseatic cities (see Chapter 13). and British Airways flies nonstop from London. and be off to your first destination. but you probably will fly into Tegel. Paul. and Weimar (see all in Chapter 14). Leipzig. See Chapter 11 for a complete description of Berlin’s airports. Excursion boats leave from Cologne for trips on the Rhine and other German rivers (see Chapter 19). ߜ Berlin: Berlin has two airports.64 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ American Airlines has nonstop service to Frankfurt from Dallas/ Fort Worth. . From Berlin. which is quite small but has easy public transportation into central Berlin. and Miami. hop on a train. Direct flights also are scheduled from most major European cities. ߜ United Airlines offers nonstop service to Frankfurt from Chicago and Washington. JFK.

you nevertheless can use the airport in Düsseldorf as an alternative to Cologne. Business travelers who need the flexibility of being able to buy their tickets at the last minute and changing their itineraries at a moment’s notice — and who want to get home before the weekend — pay a premium rate. often as high as 50 percent to 75 percent of the ticket price. but they often can’t beat the Internet. Consolidators. These fares have advance-purchase requirements and date-of-travel restrictions. such as Frankfurt and Munich. Obviously. Aer Lingus flies nonstop from Dublin. and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. offers good fares for travelers of all ages.1800flycheap. stay overnight Saturday. known as the full fare. and you’re willing to travel midweek (Tues. British Midland has flights from London. but none arrive directly from the United States. the world’s leader in student travel. Wed. FlyCheap (% 800-FLY-CHEAP [800-359-2432]. and yet prices can vary by hundreds of dollars.eltexpress. Bucket-shop tickets usually are nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation Every airline offers virtually the same product (basically. STA Travel (% 800-781-4040.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 65 ߜ Düsseldorf: Although I don’t cover Düsseldorf in this guidebook (the closest city that I cover is Cologne in Chapter 19). . particularly to Europe. From Düsseldorf. . and January through March in Germany. reaching the Rhine Valley is easy. planning ahead (% 800/TRAV-800. www. The airlines also periodically hold sales in which they lower the prices on their most popular routes. also known as bucket shops. keep your eyes open for these sales. Delta offers service from Atlanta via Paris. or Thurs).S. ߜ Hamburg: Direct flights to Flughafen Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel are scheduled from most major European cities. a coach seat is a coach seat is a . but you can’t beat the prices. November. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. As you plan your vacation. Lufthansa and Continental offer direct flights from Newark. ).com) is owned by package-holiday . If you can book your ticket far in advance. ELTExpress (Flights. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections. you can qualify for the least-expensive price — usually a fraction of the full fare. airlines is unlike that of any other industry. www. Getting the best airfare Competition among the major U. are great sources for international tickets. which tend to take place in seasons of low travel volume: has excellent fares worldwide. www.

Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline Web sites or check megasites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute consumers have never had more options. Investigate the program details of your favorite airlines before you sink points into any and opodo. (Canadian travelers need to try www. but it does entitle you to better seats. Travelocity (www.airtickets direct. Of the smaller travel agency Web sites. so shopping around is wise. The mystery airlines all are major.expedia.insideflyer. well-known carriers — and the possibility of being sent from New York . and prompter service if your luggage is stolen or your flight is canceled or delayed. of those in the U. Air Tickets Direct (% 888-858-8884.) Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same flights. and. such as Smarter Travel (smartertravel. com). consult Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www.hotwire. use an opaque fare service like Priceline ( Most are valid for travel only that weekend. Expedia and Travelocity also will send you an e-mail notification whenever a cheap fare to your favorite destination becomes available.expedia. residents can go for in Europe often have better deals than the major-label is based in Montreal and leverages the Canadian-dollar exchange rate for low fares. www. U. For last-minute trips. Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. often with a mysterious change of planes en Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a cent.sidestep. Booking your flight online The “big three” online travel agencies.66 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany megalith MyTravel and has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once” but in reality beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites do.orbitz. which have the most advantageous or Hotwire ( receives good reviews from and Orbitz ( Consider which airlines have hubs in the airport nearest you. given your most common routes. and www. or if you want to change your seat. but some can be booked weeks or months in advance. With more than 70 mileage awards programs on the market.lastminute. If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight details. SideStep (www. Expedia (www. faster response to phone inquiries.travelocity. Most of these deals are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased sell most air tickets bought on the site59. To play the frequent-flier game to your best and www. And you don’t have to fly to earn points.travelocity. Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the airlines.S. Both offer rock-bottom prices in exchange for traveling on a mystery airline at a mysterious time of day.

flight are pretty high. fares. In every city section of this guide. 114 in the U. You can reach all major German cities by train with ease. I tell you how to get into the city center from the train station. International ferry services are available from the United Kingdom. Denmark. When you’re traveling between ߜ www. England. Other helpful Web sites for booking airline tickets online include ߜ ߜ ߜ www.cheapflights. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you buy. seaeurope.lastminutetravel. Its Web site provides useful trip-planning information on train schedules and travel times. have more than one ߜ www. and rail-pass prices. contact Rail Europe (% 888-3827245 in the U. DFDS Seaways (% 800-533-3755.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 67 to Frankfurt via Detroit is remote. but you have to play their “name our price” game. border formalities. to . and so it’s easy to include Germany as part of a larger European trip.biddingfortravel. In Chapter 7.m. Have no fear. ext. and Estonia. and from all directions. such as Berlin and Hamburg. Perhaps you’re flying into Paris and from there going on to Berlin or Heidelberg as part of your European dream vacation. 800-361-7245 in Canada.. high-speed Thalys trains link Cologne and Düsseldorf with Paris and Brussels. EuroCity (EC) trains connect Germany with neighboring countries. For more information about trains in Europe. Norway. Major provides ferry service from Harwich. are taken care of onboard the train. and sleek.raileurope. Poland. but you almost always find one main or central inner-city station called a Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). which usually is conveniently located. Finland. Arriving by boat Germany’s northern coast lies along the North Sea and the Baltic But your chances of getting a 6 a. www. Priceline usually has better deals than Hotwire.m. promotional offers. Russia. such as passport checks. Sweden. Traveling by train Germany is extremely well connected by train to the rest of Europe. I discuss traveling around Germany by train and the various rail passes that can cut down on transportation costs.S. Trains are very much a part of the German (and European) travel ethic.opodo.kayak. or 11 Arriving by Other Means Germany is accessible by land and sea. www. Latvia.

ߜ How big is the group? The smaller the group. Silja Lines (same telephone and Web site as for DFDS Seaways) sails from Helsinki across the Baltic to Rostock in northern Germany. but they should be able to give you a rough estimate. Again. If a quota exists.) When choosing an escorted tour. you have no reason to think that the tour operator will fulfill its insurance obligations either. You may be required to get yourself to and from the airports at your own expense. ask a few simple questions before you buy: ߜ What is the cancellation policy? How late can you cancel if you can’t go? Do you get a refund if you cancel? Do you get a refund if the operator cancels? ߜ How jampacked is the schedule? Does the tour schedule try to fit 25 hours into a 24-hour day.m. ߜ Does the tour require a minimum group size? Some tour operators require a minimum group size and may cancel the tour when they don’t book enough people. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. I strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance. especially when the tour operator asks you to pay upfront. because they may not know the exact size of the group until everybody has made their reservations. You know your costs upfront. but drinks . every day and not returning to your hotel until 6 or 7 p. If you decide to go with an escorted tour. tour operators may be evasive with their answers. (I tell you more about travel insurance in Chapter 10. along with finding out whether you have to put down a deposit and when final payment is due. the journey takes 20 hours. the less time you spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. but the information can help you select a tour that’s sure to take place. Tour operators may be evasive about providing this fact. certain escorted tours may not be for you. sounds like a grind. Joining an Escorted Tour Some travelers to foreign destinations prefer escorted tours. Get travel insurance through an independent agency. ߜ What exactly is included? Don’t assume anything. so you don’t encounter many surprises.m.68 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Hamburg. find out what it is and how close they are to reaching it. But don’t buy insurance from the tour operator! If the tour operator doesn’t fulfill its obligation to provide you with the vacation you paid for. The tour company takes care of all the details and tells you what to expect on each leg of your journey. A box lunch may be included in an excursion. or does it give you ample time to relax or shop? If getting up at 7 a.

Black Forest. ߜ Contiki Holidays (% 866-CONTIKI. Potsdam. package tours can be a smart way to go. Beer may be included but not wine. an eight-day Bavaria and Bodensee tour with stops in Munich.879 without airfare).279 per person double occupancy without airfare) include stops in the Rhine Valley and Munich. a package tour that includes airfare. . Munich. 8-country European Magic tour (from $1. and the United offers escorted grand and highlight tours that cover most of Germany. Neuschwanstein and Oberammergau.brennanvactions.079 per person double occupancy without airfare) and its 11-day.649. Neuschwanstein. Australia. or does the bus leave once a day.globusjourneys. including Berlin.” a nine-day Rhine cruise that includes visits to vineyards and trips to Cologne and Heidelberg. not including airfare. including a stay in a castle on the Rhine and exploration of German vineyards. How much flexibility does the tour offer? Can you opt out of certain activities. A good travel agent can help you find a tour that suits your particular interests. Canada. or does everybody get the same chicken cutlet? Tour operators in the United States Several companies offer escorted tours to offers “Romantic Rhine.brendan vacations. Dresden. www. In many cases. such as castles on the Rhine for history buffs. hotel. Contiki also offers an escorted eight-day Berlin–Prague trip. who then resell them to the public. The following companies offer escorted tours to Germany: ߜ Brendan Worldwide Vacations (% 800-421-8446.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 69 may be extra. Its 12-day European Horizon tour (from $1. provides escorted tours for 18. www. while others are more general.959 without airfare). com) provides escorted tours in western and southern Germany. Cologne. Many escorted-tour companies cater to special interests. and Mainau (from $2. and a nine-day Berlin-to-Bohemia tour that takes you to Berlin.maupintour. ߜ Globus (www. and transportation to and from the airport costs less than the hotel alone on a tour you book 35-year-olds and has offices in the United States. Meissen. and Prague (from $2. ߜ Brennan Vacations (% 800-237-7249. Choosing a package tour For many destinations. www. and destinations in the rest of Germany (or include Germany in a Europe-wide tour). and Leipzig. ߜ Maupintour (www. That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour operators. with no exceptions? Are all your meals planned in advance? Can you choose your entree at has an eight-day escorted tour of German Christmas Market Towns from $2.

com) offers flight and hotel packages to Frankfurt and vacations. and a day tour of Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace.nwa worldvacations. The following U. and Lastminute. In some packages. check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based. which typically amount to about $80. www. airlines offered packages to Germany from the United States in 2006: ߜ Continental Airlines Vacations (% 800-301-3800. a daylong Rhine tour from Frankfurt. and an array of sightseeing and transportation add-ons. . www. and Berlin. such as Travel + Leisure. your choice of accommodations and travel days may be www. Some let you choose between escorted vacations and independent vacations. ߜ Northwest Airlines World Vacations (% has air/hotel packages to Frankfurt. You also can rent a car or buy a Eurailpass for train has a hotel/airfare package to Frankfurt from a number of U. Orbitz. and Frankfurt. others allow you to add on just a few excursions or escorted daytrips (also at discounted prices) without booking an entirely escorted tour.S. Locating airline and hotel packages To find package tours. don’t fly with it. www. Airline packages don’t always include airport taxes and — also do a brisk business in packages. departure cities. and many let you choose the hotel category you want. check out the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper or the ads in the back of national travel magazines. ߜ Delta Vacations (% has air/hotel packages to Berlin. Liberty Travel (call % 888-271-1584. Munich. and Condé Nast Traveler. Several big online travel agencies — Expedia.70 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Every package tour is different.deltavacations. National Geographic Traveler. Other good sources of package deals are the airlines. or go online to www. Site59. Prices depend on your departure city.unitedvacations.S. ߜ United Vacations (% 800-800-1504.bbb. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. Add-ons include a Munich city tour. some provide the same hotels for lower prices. If you’re unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager. www.libertytravel. others sell charters. is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast and usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers. Some book flights on scheduled airlines. If a packager won’t tell you where it’s based. Munich.

734 sq. You’ll notice fascinating differences in culture. Heidelberg. From Munich. in about seven or eight hours. I Weighing the Options: Train or Car? Because of Germany’s comparatively small size and easy-access train and road networks. you can get from Berlin. the country is a snap to explore. the mode of travel best suited to your needs and itinerary. The cities in western Germany — Cologne. in the south. the trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps is only an hour by car and less than 90 minutes by train. . in the north. the atmospheric charms of Germany are most strongly felt. Germany (356. customs. to Munich. where you can sip wine in a small Rhineland village or explore a scenic region like Bavaria. Germany is a fairly small country. When you get out of the cities and into the countryside. From Berlin you can reach Dresden or Leipzig in about two hours. Nuremberg — usually are no more than two or three hours apart by car or train. With the area added by reunification. Australia. If you want to get a feel for the country. Compared with the United States. and language as you travel from one part of Germany to another. Stuttgart. By fast train or car. food. The train trip between Hamburg and Lübeck is less than an hour.Chapter 7 Getting Around Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling through Germany by train ᮣ Touring the sites by car ᮣ Cruising the rivers of Germany ᮣ Flying from city to city n this chapter. miles) is smaller than the state of Montana (but with more than 80 million people). km/137.735 sq. you find out more about your travel options within Germany — that is. Many historic towns and castles in Germany are manageable daytrips from larger cities. consider exploring at least a portion of Germany that has nothing to do with huge urban Berlin or Munich. and Canada.

speed. ICE trains have telephones. German trains almost always run on time. Each train makes stops at cities along the way. at DB’s Web site. If you need any kind of train-related information while you’re in Germany — from timetables to fares and special services — call DB’s general information number at % 11861. a restaurant. And. German Rail in English). enabling passengers to cross the entire country in only a few hours. having a car in scenic areas. in English. reaching speeds of 265kmph (165 mph). ߜ InterCity Express (ICE) trains.72 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany So should you rent a car or take the train? In almost all cases. You also can access train information online. ICE significantly reduces travel time. and a high standard of comfort in both first and second classes. are among the fastest in Europe. from Frankfurt to Munich. and convenient. Someone who speaks English will be available to help you. However. pronounced shpy-zuhvahg-en) and cafe or bistro cars (for lighter snacks) are on all trains. and from Berlin to Munich. yes. enables you to explore the countryside more easily. Traveling by train is fast. I recommend train travel for its convenience. and telephone service. and fun. You may be surprised by the bright-red. a train is called an Eisenbahn (eye-sen-bawn) or a Zug (zoog). On IC trains. long-distance and local train timetables are coordinated to minimize waiting for connections. Train types The federally owned and operated Deutsche Bahn has been modernizing and upgrading its trains steadily while integrating two different systems (Deutsche Bundesbahn in western Germany and Deutsche Reichsbahn in eastern Germany) into one. ICE trains run from Hamburg to Munich. which connect major cities on heavily traveled routes. Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go In Germany. I recommend traveling by train above all other forms of transportation — especially if you’re a first-time visitor to Germany. Following basic training Throughout Germany. . fun. you can choose whether to sit in a compartment with six seats or in an open saloon coach. What follows is a rundown of the trains that you find within Germany: ߜ InterCity (IC) passenger trains offer express service between all major German cities at intervals of one or two hours. individual reading lights. IC trains have adjustable cushioned The railway system in Germany is operated by Deutsche Bahn (DB. high-tech look of the newest trains. such as the Black Forest (Chapter 17) or the Romantic Road in Bavaria (Chapter 16). www.bahn. Dining cars (Speisewagen.

fewer passengers. In other trains. when you’re onboard the train for seven hours or more. The first-class cars have roomier seats. Comfort Single or Double gives you a singleor double-bed compartment with washing facilities. and Dortmund and Vienna. Paris. Economy provides a four-bed compartment with washing facilities (you can book this class as a single or double). First-class tickets cost about one-third more than second class. Brussels. The Ruhesessel (sleeper chair) category offers open saloon seating with reclining seats. You may appreciate the difference on long-distance journeys — from Berlin to Munich. so have your luggage in hand and be ready to disembark when the train comes to a halt. say. You can specify your preference when reserving your seat. Sleeping accommodations in Deluxe include compartments with a shower and toilet. Ticket classes German trains have a two-tiered ticket system: first class (Erste Klasse) and second class (Zweite Klasse). Prague. usually within a suburban area around a large town. Baden-Baden. In new high-speed trains. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations. First-class service on InterCity Express (ICE) trains includes a higher standard of personal service. and a panoramic window with blinds. you can order beverages and snacks that . pronounced raukin) and nonsmoking (nicht rauchen. which now sometimes is called standard class. and a more luxurious feel. This train operates between Berlin and Zurich (stopping at Frankfurt. phones for wake-up service. ߜ For shorter local trips. ߜ DB Nachtzug (Night Train) service is available between many cities in Germany and continues on to Amsterdam. among other towns). pronounced nickt rau-kin) sections. and Copenhagen. key cards. Berlin and Dresden. RegionalExpress (RE) trains link rural areas to the long-distance rail network. But you can travel quite comfortably in second class. Station stops are short.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 73 ߜ The CityNightLine (CNL) is one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe. The CNL includes a restaurant and cafe car. Hamburg and Zurich. For some outof-the-way places. The CNL offers four different categories. S-Bahn (urban light-rail) trains are used. Eurail and GermanRail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation. All German trains are divided into smoking (rauchen. you may need to open the door by pulling up on a handle. The night trains have comfortable couchettes (basic sleeping compartments) and some more deluxe sleeping compartments with showers. An announcement is made before the train arrives at each station. and Freiburg. you may need to transfer to a RegionalBahn (RB) train to reach your destination. you find a well-marked button that automatically opens the door.

departure is Abfahrt (ob-fahrt). you can check your luggage (Gepäck.m.m. rarely is more than a few minutes’ walk from the historic town center and all the main attractions. the time on the schedule reads 16:20.74 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany are brought to your seat. Hotels are always close at hand.m.and second-class passengers otherwise use the same dining cars and cafe cars for buying sandwiches and drinks. or bus from there. Local and commuter trains don’t have food service. Like other European trains. 14:00 (2 p. You ride in a sleeper compartment on the train. while your automobile. arrival or departure times. including currency exchange. First.). you must climb stairs. light-rail. you can take yourself and your car on an overnight car-sleeper Auto Train. Heading to the Hauptbahnhof A German city’s Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). an employee comes through both first. If you’re loaded down with several large. But in others. Although less common. getting to your track without help may be difficult. pronounced glice) for your departing train.). daytime automobile trains also operate. 15:00 (3 p.). This information also is posted as a printed schedule in the station. or you can use self-service luggage trolleys available for 1€ ($1. and track numbers. the German train system works on a 24-hour clock. The German word for arrival is Ankunft (on-koonft).). The station always is a main link in the city’s public transportation system. or main train station. (Just another way of saying: Don’t overpack. If you’re arriving in a city for sightseeing only. . and usually a tourist information office. On some trains. If your train leaves at 4:20 p. At larger stations. you can take an elevator to the track level. so you can continue your local explorations by subway. porters (recognized by their red or blue uniforms) can transport your luggage. heavy bags.. and not spending the night.and second-class cars with a food-and-beverage trolley. Therefore.m. comes along for the ride. and so on. Midnight always is listed as 0:00 hours and noon is 12:00. When you reach your destination. newsstands. tram.m. prominently placed departure and arrival boards list train numbers.25). up to 23:59 (11:59 p. train times can be 13:00 (1 p. final destinations. German train stations in major cities offer all kinds of services. pronounced geh-peck) at a luggage checkroom. In many German train stations. Auto trains If you want to avoid long-distance driving but need a car after you arrive at your destination.) Getting off on the right track After arriving at the station. food and beverages. you need to find the right track (Gleis. which sometimes have a ramp for luggage trolleys and baby carriages. In large cities. stowed elsewhere. you can pick up your car and go.

look for the Reisezentrum (travel center). Or stop in at the Rail Europe Travel Centre. Otherwise.S.raileurope. raileurope. or Wagen (vah-ghen). In smaller stations. and you’re risking a journey without a seat reservation. make your way to the platform areas where the You can also find exact fares on Deutsche Bahn’s Web site. www. The Wagen numbers correspond with numbers or letters on the platform. They help you save time (ticket lines can be long) and. but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. or Canadian dollars) of fares between destinations within Germany.S. or 800/361-7245 in Canada. London WI . Most rail passes must be purchased before you leave home. they can’t be purchased after you arrive in Germany or the rest of Europe. so you want to be near the appropriate area for boarding when your train pulls into the station. Trains can be very long.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 75 If you have a reserved seat. 178 Piccadilly. Travel agents throughout the United States and Canada sell all the rail passes described later in this section. You’re issued a ticket that lists the Wagen (car) number and the Platz (seat) number. and restaurant cars. usually. If you have a German Rail Pass or a Eurailpass (see the next section). You can make a seat (Platz.raileurope. If you have a Eurailpass. com. Before you buy a rail pass. you can click on “Fares and Schedules” and get an estimated cost (in U. In larger stations. www. Check the diagram and then make your way to the appropriate area of the platform before the train arrives. At Rail Europe’s Web site.75). money. reserving your seat in advance. bahn. which allows you to order by phone or online. You can check out passes and prices at Rail Europe’s U. your ticket lists the car and seat is always a good idea. is numbered. In larger stations. Reserving your seat When traveling for any distance in Germany. Web site: www. www. Each car. the seat reservation costs 3€ ($3. even if you have a Eurailpass or German Rail Pass. or far-karten) at any train do a little research to find out whether it’s going to save you pronounced plotz) reservation and buy train tickets (Fahrkarten. Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Germany and continental Europe. second-class. the staff usually speaks English and can answer any questions you have. usually 1 to 6 or A to G. Saving time and euros with rail passes Rail passes are tickets that enable you to travel for a certain number of days without buying a ticket for each leg of your journey. Diagrams posted on the platform show the layout of first-class. the only free seat you find may be in the smoking area or out in the hallway (I speak from experience).or second-class cars will stop.. make your booking at the ticket counter.

you can ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich. A German Rail Youth Pass is valid only for persons younger than 26 years of age and is available only in second class. entitling you to unlimited second-class travel for $394 for 15 days. including Germany. and then rent a car for a two-day excursion into the Bavarian Alps to see Ludwig’s castles. each additional day $13. including destinations not serviced by trains. $634 for 1 month. Some of the most popular passes.. Sample prices: $163 for four days. German Rail Passes are most conveniently available from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. $510 for 21 The 15-day Eurailpass costs $605. and free travel on KD German Line steamers (daytrips only) along the Rhine. for two adults (they do not have to be married and can be of the same sex) traveling together in first or second class. Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe The Eurailpass is one of Europe’s best bargains.S. you can purchase a Eurailpass Youth. with additional days available for a reduced price. $25 second class. spend three days exploring the city. Main. A four-day pass costs $263 first class or $200 second class. each additional day costs $38 first class. . German Rail Passes for kids ages 6 to 11 are half the adult price. A German Rail Pass also entitles the bearer to free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus.76 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany (% 08708/371-371 in the U. including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth. you can purchase the passes online at www. and Mosel rivers. German rail passes: For Deutschland only The German Rail Pass allows for four consecutive or nonconsecutive days of travel in one month within Germany. These passes are for consecutive days of travel. Rail Europe also provides cost-effective “Rail ’n Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car.raileurope. For instance. and $1. are available only to travelers younger than 26 years of age. Passes are for periods as short as 15 days or as long as 3 months. With a Eurailpass you can enjoy unlimited first-class rail travel in 18 countries. $897 for 2 months.K). Sample prices per person: $200 for four days first class or $150 for second class. The second pass represents a 50 percent savings over single prices. Children younger than 6 travel free.108 for 3 months. If you’re younger than 26. or 800-361-7245 in Canada). these passes allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries. An even bigger bargain is the German Rail Twinpass.

you have to go through some rather complicated paperwork (and. and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. which cost extra. Eurailpass holders also are entitled to considerable reductions on certain buses and ferries. from a travel agent or from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. www. Australia. Prepaying rentals in dollars before leaving the United States offers some advantages. that if you opt to prepay and your plans change. .Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 77 Eurailpasses can be bought and used only by non-European residents. However. A host of different Eurailpass options are available. good for first-class travel for 10 or 15 days in a 2-month period. Buy your Eurailpass before you leave home. You get an easy-to-understand net price (which you have to prepay by credit card at least 14 days before departure). Germany has scenic regions — the Romantic Road.raileurope. including the Eurail Pass Flexi. Whenever you rent.. or 800361-7245 in Canada. keep in mind that you may get a better rate if you reserve the car at least seven days in advance. but no other special license is required. If you’re going to tour Germany by car. the rental process is more streamlined. the Bodensee. Drivers from the United States. Canada. or at an office within German cities. or five countries linked by rail or ferry. You can often rent a car in one German city and return the vehicle in another city for no additional charge. Remember. nothing is more pleasant than sitting in a train and watching the countryside roll by. To me. I recommend that you make all the arrangements before you leave home. Renting a car in Germany Renting a car is fairly easy in Germany. Seat reservations are required on some trains. Touring by Car: Autobahns. and Benzin I’m a Zug (train) nut. See the appendix for a list of names and contact information. you may want to pick up a copy of Frommer’s Germany’s Best-Loved Driving Tours (Wiley). allowing travelers to select three. Tankstellen. and other non–European Union countries must have a valid driver’s license. in some cases. You can pick up your car at most airports and major train stations. have to pay a penalty of around $25) for changing or canceling a prepaid contract. for example — where even I succumb to car rental to explore the countryside. The night trains have couchettes (sleeping cars).com). Several international car-rental firms rent cars in Germany. however. and the Black Forest. and Eurail Selectpass. four.S. Eurailpass Saver for two to five persons traveling together.

Some credit cards (especially platinum and gold cards) cover the CDW. the Autobahn does not have a speed limit (in the left. some secondary and local roads are not in good shape. The Bundesstrassen (state roads) vary in quality from region to at the same time you book your German Rail Pass or Eurailpass (see “Saving time and euros with rail passes. so call your company to check on these benefits before you spend the extra money on additional insurance. Taking the roads less traveled The roads that make up the Autobahn (pronounced otto-bahn) form Germany’s main long-distance highway network. They offer a German Rail ’n Drive option that gives you two days of unlimited train travel (first or second class) and two days of Hertz car rental within one month. so you may prefer the slower. so if your own car insurance doesn’t cover you abroad.S. In theory.raileurope. The government recommends an Autobahn speed limit of 130kmph (80 mph). You can purchase extra days for both train travel and car rental. and Bundesstrassen. or 800-361-7245 in Canada. See Table 7-1 for a few important words that you should know. If you rent a car in Germany. However. I recommend that you purchase all the optional insurance coverage. you’ll pay for all damages up to the cost of actually replacing the vehicle. In eastern Germany. A German driver on the Autobahn can be like one possessed. Neither the CDW nor credit-card companies cover liability if you injure yourself. another passenger. www. B31). Hallweg also produces good road maps. individual Autobahns are indicated by the letter A followed by a number. the Rhine Valley. in general. which are available at all major bookstores throughout Germany. The Bundesstrassen in the major touring areas of the Romantic Road in Bavaria. .. right lane. Germany’s road signs are standard international signs. Michelin publishes the best regional maps. consider taking out Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) for extra liability coverage. but many drivers going too fast report that they’ve been stopped by police and fined on the spot. If you don’t have a CDW and have an accident.” earlier in this chapter).78 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany You can also rent a car through Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. by the letter B (examples: A96. In this book. fast lane). and the Black Forest are smoothly paved and kept in good repair. or someone else. finding your way by looking for directional signs rather than highway number signs is easier. So exercise reasonable caution. A Collision-Damage Waiver (CDW) is an optional insurance policy that can be purchased when you sign a rental agreement.

ߜ You can pass other vehicles only on the left. Children younger than 4 must ride in a car seat. or roadwork One-way street Entrance End Danger Turn left Turn right Road narrows Attention! Look out! Following the rules of the road If you’re going to drive in Germany. or beginning Exit Building site. you need to know a few general facts: ߜ Signs show distances and speed limits in kilometers (km) and kilometers per hour (kmph). A kilometer is 0. . speed limits are • 50kmph (30 mph) in towns • 100kmph (60 mph) on regular highways • 130kmph (78 mph) on Autobahns ߜ On Autobahns. ߜ The law requires that all passengers wear seat belts. And I mean fast. ߜ Unless posted differently. German motorists generally flash their lights if they want you to move over so they can pass. and a mile is 1. Children younger than 12 must sit on booster seats in the back so that regular seat belts can be used safely.62 of a mile. Do not drive in this lane unless you are passing another car.62km. the left lane is the fast lane.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 79 Table 7-1 German Anfang Ausfahrt Baustelle Einbahnstrasse Einfahrt Ende Gefahr Links einbiegen Rechts einbiegen Verengte Fahrbahn Vorsicht German Road Signs English Translation Start.

You insert coins (or credit cards) to purchase a certain amount of time. Super Bleifrei (super unleaded). Fill ’er up. ask for “road service assistance” (Strassenwachthilfe). the point of the black triangle on posts alongside the road indicates the direction of the nearest phone. In English. Am Westpark 8. . and diesel. On the Autobahn. If you have a breakdown on the Autobahn. ߜ Driving while intoxicated and drinking while driving are very serious offenses in Germany. Emergency assistance is free. They are always identified by a large P. The types of gasoline are Normal Bleifrei (regular unleaded). If you don’t belong to an auto club. ߜ You must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. in some larger cities.80 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ You must use low-beam headlights at night and during fog. expensive. Look for parking lots and parking garages outside the center. The cheapest gasoline is at stations marked SB-TANKEN (Selbstbedienung. or just plain impossible. The self-service process is basically the same as that of the United States. because most historic town centers are for pedestrians only. Sailing through Germany: River Cruises Germany’s major river is the Rhine. you can call ADAC from an emergency phone. You fill your tank and pay inside at the counter. which flows through the heart of Europe from the Alps to the North Sea. 81373 München (% 089/ 76760). signs on the way into town indicate how much space is available in various lots or parking garages. heavy rain. is readily available throughout Germany. more castles were built in the Rhine Valley than in any other valley in the world. and gas stations. called Benzin (ben-seen). don’t risk driving. called Tankstelle (tonk-shtel-leh) appear frequently along the Autobahns. Most parking lots use an automated ticket system. they have the right of way. but you pay for parts and materials. If you’ve had more than a glass of wine or beer. call ADAC’s breakdown service at % 01802/222-222. or self-service). ߜ Parking in the center of most big towns is difficult. Through the centuries. bitte (please) Gasoline. and snowfalls. Filling up the tank of a medium-sized car will usually cost about 60€ ($75). But remember that gas is always much more expensive than in the United States. Super Plus Bleifrei (supreme unleaded). Handling a roadside emergency The major automobile club in Germany is Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobile Club (ADAC). you find emergency phones every 2km (about 11⁄4 miles).

Cologne. You can fly this route. you may want to consider this or www. Hamburg or Berlin in the north to Munich in the south. www. Itineraries range from 2 to 20 nights. www. and Heidelberg. Suite www. Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? Flying from city to city within Germany makes sense if you’re traveling from. For more information. or Peter Deilmann EuropAmerica Cruises. and Canada. The train from Frankfurt to Stuttgart. CA 91367 (% 877-66VIKING [845464]. you can already be there. VA 22314 (% 800-348-8287. takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. Dresden. in the city center.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 81 This area has great appeal to visitors. cuts through Germany’s eastern border in a beautiful area called Saxon Switzerland (see Chapter 14). I tell you about river excursions along the Mosel and Neckar rivers and local sightseeing cruises in Berlin. . for example. by train. The downside is that you won’t see the countryside. . A trip that normally takes seven or eight hours by train or car takes about an hour by plane. past offers the most extensive and frequent flights within the country. but when you factor in time spent getting to the airport. Viking KD River Cruises and Peter Deilman EuropAmerica Cruises offer several cruises along these three great waterways.deilmanncruises.. . In the city and regional chapters of this guidebook. situated on tributaries of the Elbe are Berlin and Hamburg. which begins in the Czech Republic. The Elbe.lufthansa. Woodland Hills. mostly between April and October but with some in December. and enters the Rhine at the city of Mainz.. The Main flows from the Danube. 21820 Burbank Blvd. 01803/803-803 in Germany. going through security.lufthansa.S. flows past the great art city of Dresden. Flying doesn’t make much sense if you’re traveling short distances between cities that are connected by high-speed trains. com). say. waiting for your departure. Lufthansa (% 800-645-3880 in the U. 1800 Diagonal Rd. Frankfurt. and continues northeastward. but other European carriers are increasing their German domestic routes. or from Cologne in the west to Leipzig in the east. Alexandria. If you’re looking for an unusual and relaxing way to see Germany. and then getting into the city after your plane lands . contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe.rivercruises.

From April through September. and other cities throughout the country play host to large trade fairs and special events that make hotel rooms scarce. near Ludwig’s castles. wherever you are. but I still recommend doing so — particularly when you’re going to be spending a Friday or Saturday night in a major tourist spot like Dresden or Füssen.Chapter 8 Booking Your Accommodations In This Chapter ᮣ Checking out the options ᮣ Getting the best room for the best rate ᮣ Surfing for cyberdeals ᮣ Landing a room without a reservation T his chapter deals with that age-old question asked by every traveler going to an unfamiliar country or city: Where should I spend the night? Everyone travels differently. hotels in the inexpensive-to-moderate range always are first to be snapped up. Throughout the year. In Germany’s large cities. Berlin. Booking ahead isn’t as important in the rest of Germany. booking your hotel room ahead is essential — especially if you’re going to be in Munich during Oktoberfest. In the following pages. and again in December (the period that constitutes high season). finding a room may be as simple as spotting a sign in a house window that reads Zimmer frei (room available). especially in the middle of winter. you won’t have a problem booking a room on the spot. and how to get the best deal for your money. the Rhine and Mosel valleys. Hotels in popular tourist areas. you find out about German hotels — how to find them. . like Berlin and Munich. also fill up quickly during high season. and every country offers its own lodging possibilities. and the Bodensee (Lake Constance). Cologne. Munich. what to expect in each category. such as the Black Forest. During off season. In a small village. how to book a room online. Frankfurt.

This light. and local tourist boards control standards in all categories of accommodations. Finding the Place That’s Right for You Germany has very high standards for hotels and inns. an egg. In all types of accommodations in Germany. . Most tourist information centers also have a free directory of local accommodations. The term for “no smoking” is nicht rauchen (nickt rau-kin). A five-star hotel is a luxury property with an on-site spa or pool and a rate at the top end of the price spectrum. Charges for this service vary. can help you find a room. A one-star hotel is basic and inexpensive. and smoked fish or pickled herring. yogurt. These same state agencies and tourist boards rate hotels according to a star system. But remember that Europeans in general are not as committed to smokefree environments as are Americans. You find all types of lodging. you find a Decke on each side. and some cold cuts. I try to give you the best options in different price categories. I don’t use that star-rating system in this book. but you get that back at the hotel. located in or near the main train stations in all German cities and towns. Smoke-free rooms and smoke-free floors finally are catching on in Germany. The system isn’t used to recommend hotels but rather simply to categorize them according to their amenities. and others charge 10 percent of the first night’s hotel rate. cereal. breakfast may be coffee. You won’t find a speck of Schmutz (dirt) in any of them. At hotels. Some places charge nothing. breakfast is more likely to be a self-serve buffet with juice. Even the smallest Pension (bed-and-breakfast. eggs. cold cuts. and simple rooms in private homes and apartments. small family-run hotels. buttoned within a sheet. Breakfast (Frühstück) always is included in the price of a room. Hotel associations. except at some boutique and high-end luxury hotels. A Decke is what Americans call a comforter or duvet. fresh bread. others charge a small fixed fee (usually no more than 3€/$3.75). takes the place of blankets. chain hotels. In a pension. or B&B) must open its doors for inspection to be able to list and rent rooms. feather-filled covering. You’re most likely to find them in midrange to high-end hotels. a roll with butter and jam. If two beds are joined to make a double. cozy inns. instead. so the service ends up costing nothing. fruit. you find a Decke (deck-uh) on the bed. rustic guesthouses. depending on the size and degree of luxury.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 83 Tourist information centers. regional tourist associations. pastries. from luxury old-world palaces and super-high-tech showoffs to hip boutique hotels.

Rooms and bathrooms are not always large. Le Meridien. classic Bauhaus style. telephone. Ramada — names you probably know — all have hotels in Germany. In the following sections. German. you have several different kinds of hotels and accommodations from which to choose. Der Kleine Prinz in Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) is built around oldfashioned luxury. These establishments often are part of hotel associations. but also look for special weekend rates on the hotels’ Web sites. which often are the best restaurants in town. InterCity Hotels (always near train stations). Most boutique hotels are too small to have a pool or health club but may have an arrangement with a nearby facility. a couple of phones. Each one has its own personality. The staff is unusually welcoming and the service impeccable. tubs (often with whirlpools) and showers. cable and satellite TV. which you can find in every chapter’s hotel listings and in the appendix. they generally cost 150€ ($188) and up. Some brand-name hotel chains — Hyatt. Mercure. and high-quality toiletries. such as Relais & Châteaux. Amenities typically include brand-name toiletries. Ringhotels. and bathrobes. Boutique hotels Think of them as small luxury hotels.84 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In Germany. usually with a sauna and pool. Swissôtel. Your bed is turned down at night. Best Western. but they are beautifully fitted out. European. 24-hour room service is available. and the property has an on-site health club. beginning with the most expensive. and Romantic Hotels. and bathrobes. and Treff Hotels. Park Plaza/ Art’otel. Breakfast may or may not be included. and Steigenberger. the Hotel Excelsior Ernst in Cologne (Chapter 22) and the Hotel Adlon in Berlin (Chapter 22) are two of the most luxurious luxury hotels. Boutique hotels always have a fine-dining restaurant and a bar. For the . high-speed and wireless Internet access. highspeed and wireless Internet access. The Bleibtreu in Berlin (Chapter 11) is big on hip. Travel Charme. Bathrooms are large and well equipped with magnifying mirrors. Hotel Brandenburger Hof in Berlin (Chapter 11) emphasizes a sleek. and international chains include Accor. What you don’t get is a free breakfast. Expect to pay 175€ ($219) and up. I describe each type. Boutique hotels generally have fewer than 70 rooms and offer a unique ambience and high level of personalized service. Kempinski. in particular — have properties in this luxury category.25 per bag). Chain hotels Holiday Inn. The rooms themselves are generally spacious and beautifully furnished with amenities such as a minibar. Luxury hotels Public spaces in luxury hotels are sophisticated and elegant. Inter-Continental. a minibar. satellite TV. Sheraton. contemporary design. The hotel has at least two fine gourmet restaurants. Charges for the (fabulous) breakfast buffet are anywhere from 17€ to 22€ ($21–$27). Small Luxury Hotels. Pricewise. Mövenpick. Porters are available to take your luggage up to your room (tip 1€/$1. Radisson SAS.

Room service is available. In these hotels. They also tend to be newish. The rooms themselves often are charming — what you’d typically expect in an old-world inn. and the upper floors. and the hotel often has an on-site pool or health club with sauna. Amenities include a telephone. Guesthouses A guesthouse. Garni. cable TV. expect to pay anywhere from 110€ to 175€ ($137–$219). enormous. Smaller independent hotels Many small and medium-sized hotels in Germany are family owned and operated. Prices vary greatly for chain hotels. other rooms have sinks but share bathrooms and showers in the hallway. lunch. The ambience tends to be rustic and cozy. comfortable rooms without much personality but at hard-to-beat prices. have just a few rooms. Tour packagers and convention planners often house their groups in chain hotels. You probably won’t find a telephone in your room or too many amenities. Some rooms have small private bathrooms with showers or bathtubs. Shopping around on the Web may net you some big savings. and somewhat anonymous.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 85 most part. chain hotels offer brand-name familiarity and dependable service. The rooms are smaller and have a more standardized décor than rooms in luxury hotels. or in the country than in large cities. The Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg and Feriengasthof Helmer in Schwangau (see Chapter 16 for both) are examples of this kind of accommodations. but your rate will include breakfast. usually no more than three total. Properties like Hotel Jedermann in Munich (Chapter 15) or Hotel-Garni Brugger in Lindau (Chapter 17) offer basic. a word sometimes attached to a hotel’s name. Most guesthouses don’t have an elevator. The restaurant occupies the main or first floor. means that breakfast is the only meal the hotel serves. is basically an inn with a restaurant that serves breakfast. and many of the properties are older and located in the oldest and most picturesque quarters of the city. . Bathrooms are smaller and less glamorous than the ones in a luxury or boutique hotel property. and dinner to hotel guests and outside patrons. Prices for a small to midsize independent hotel range from 85€ to 175€ ($106–$219). and sometimes a minibar. In general. The inn may also offer a special rate for dinner or lunch and dinner. you find a telephone and cable TV. called a Gasthaus (gahst-house) or a Gasthof (gahsthofe). which typically are given a two. Rates are typically from 55€ to 110€ ($69–$137). depending on the time of year and the presence of trade shows or conventions. You’re more likely to find guesthouses in small towns. You generally find different room categories. Rates at small and midsize properties always include a buffet breakfast. in medium-sized cities. some with breakfast included.or three-star rating by the local tourist authority.

but you can almost always do better. prices are higher in large cities. (That’s because the hotel often gives the agent a discount in exchange for steering his business toward that hotel. (See Chapter 3 for more information on Germany’s different seasons. You may be pleasantly surprised. In Germany. but you generally won’t have a phone. or you may have to share the bathroom. Perhaps the best way to avoid paying the rack rate is surprisingly simple: Just ask for a cheaper or discounted rate. you can also use the kitchen. If you travel in the high season (Apr–June. Sept.86 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Pensions The Pension (pronounced pen-see-own in Germany) has long been the backbone of budget travel in Germany. and Dec). the central reservations number may not know about discount rates at specific locations. pensions. the rate you pay for a room depends on many factors — chief among them being how you make your reservation. Breakfast always is included in the price.) Reserving a room through the hotel’s toll-free number also may result in a lower rate than calling the hotel directly. On the other hand. with breakfast included in the price. you’ll probably pay more. Pension Niebuhr in Berlin (Chapter 11) is a good big-city pension. Prices aren’t negotiable at smaller hotels. Amenities vary from place to place. so you may or may not have a TV. Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. You sometimes see these rates printed on the fire/emergency-exit diagrams posted on the back of your door. Room rates (even rack rates) change with the season. Your best bet is to call both the local number and the toll-free number and see which one gives you a better deal. hotel rates usually go down in July and August. Keep in mind that many pensions operate on a cash-only basis. as occupancy rates rise and fall. It’s the rate you get if you walk in off the street and ask for a room for the night. although some of these properties do offer special rates for longer stays.) But . A pension is the same as a B&B (bed-and-breakfast): a room in a private home or apartment. and guesthouses. In all but the smallest accommodations. A travel agent may be able to negotiate a better price with certain hotels than you can get by yourself. rooms start around 30€ ($37) per person per night. Hotels are happy to charge you the rack rate. Some half a million beds are available in private homes across the country. often advertised with a simple sign: Zimmer frei (room available). In smaller towns. and in some cases. You may luck out and find a place with a private bathroom. considered high season elsewhere in Europe.

More than once. so the rates quoted in this book may be different from the actual rate you receive when you make your reservation. In the meantime. . AARP. Travelocity posts unvarnished customer reviews and ranks its properties according to the AAA rating system. is partly owned by the hotels it represents (including the Hilton. Surfing the Web for hotel deals Shopping online for hotels generally is done one of two ways: by booking through the hotel’s own Web site or through an independent booking agency (or a fare-service agency like Priceline). These Internet hotel agencies have multiplied in mind-boggling numbers of late. TravelAxe (www. Another booking site. a good portion of which get misplaced in the shuffle. Travelweb (www. frequent-flier programs. and Starwood chains) and is therefore plugged directly into the hotels’ reservations systems — unlike independent online agencies that have to fax or e-mail reservation requests to the hotel. Also reliable are and any corporate rewards programs you can think of when you call to book. competing for the business of millions of consumers surfing for accommodations around the world. including the taxes and service charges. To be fair. travelers have arrived at the hotel only to be told that they have no reservation. And keep in mind that hotels at the top of a site’s listing may be there for no other reason than that they paid money to get the placement. Of the “big three” sites. Be sure to mention membership in AAA. This competitiveness can be a boon to consumers who have the patience and time to shop for and compare the online sites for good deals — but shop they and Quikbook. and Expedia soon will be able to plug directly into the reservations systems of many hotel chains. many of the major sites are undergoing improvements in service and ease of use. Expedia offers a long list of special deals and virtual tours or photos of available rooms so you can see what you’re paying for. room prices are subject to change without For more tips about how to get the best room rate. You never know when the affiliation may be worth a few euros off your room rate. An excellent free program.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 87 even within a given season. getting a confirmation number and making a printout of any online booking transactions are good practices. because prices can vary considerably from site to site. can help you search multiple hotel sites at once — even ones you may never have heard of — and conveniently lists the total price of the room. see the information about choosing a tour package in Chapter 6.travelweb.

check prices and availability. and Hotwire.landidyll. such as B&Bs. and Orbitz) offer hotel booking.innsite. Because the site prebooks blocks of rooms. Expedia. Orbitz. which you won’t find on the more mainstream booking services. and then e-mail the innkeeper if you have questions. For Priceline. Although the major travel booking sites (Frommer’s.biddingfortravel. Priceline. you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel before offering up your money. Call its toll-free number (% 800-364-0801) if you want more options than the Web site lists online. Travelocity. The following list includes sites that enable you to make online reservations at hotels throughout Germany: ߜ Hotel Discounts (www. You can find a B&B in Berlin or the Black In the opaque Web site ߜ ߜ www. Priceline is much better at getting five-star lodging for three-star prices than at finding anything at the bottom of the scale. the following Web sites will help you with booking hotel rooms online: ߜ www. ߜ Landidyll (www. it sometimes has rooms at hotels that are sold Web site (www. You often find properties not listed with more general online travel agencies.travelweb. and the fee is nonrefundable. ߜ Hotel Online ( lists bargain rates at hotels throughout Germany. . it features a fairly up-to-date list of hotels that Priceline uses in major cities. you may be better off using a site devoted primarily to lodging.180096hotel. Expedia. including Germany. another good site if you can read German. you pay upfront. ߜ InnSite (www. many hotels stick Priceline guests in their least desirable rooms. Note: Some hotels don’t provide loyalty-program credits or points or other frequent-stay amenities when you book a room through opaque online services. Go to the provides B&B listings for inns in dozens of countries around the globe. On the downside. focuses on family hotels all across Germany that are managed according to ecological principles and have gastronomic flair. It features independent hotels throughout Germany and northern Europe that are a good value for your money.quickbook.88 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In addition to ߜ www. Priceline is even better for booking hotels than it is for booking is a site that you may want to use if you can read German. Some lodging sites specialize in a particular type of before bidding on a hotel room on Priceline.tripadvisor. look at images of the rooms.

if it is. ߜ Inquire about the location of the restaurants.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 89 ߜ SRS-Worldhotels (www. and have more windows and light than standard rooms. bars. if you aren’t happy with your room when you lists more than 16.000 hotels worldwide. request a room away from the renovation work. within reason. ߜ Always ask for a corner room. including first-class and resort hotels throughout Germany.srs-worldhotels. You can check for special discounted and weekend rates at many great German hotels. asking a few more pointed questions can go a long way toward making sure you get the best room in the house. and focuses on chains such as Hyatt and Hilton. Reserving the best room After you make your reservation. If they have another room. offer weekend deals at many leading chains. updated each Monday. including Germany. . quieter. Its Click-It Weekends. ߜ Ask whether the hotel is renovating.travelweb. Finally. and they don’t always cost more. talk to the front has about 450 hotels worldwide. and discos in the hotel — all sources of annoying noise. they should be happy to accommodate you. They’re usually larger. ߜ Travelweb (www. You can book almost 90 percent of these accommodations online.

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning. Seniors may like to take advantage of discounts or tours designed especially for them. giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes. But family travel can be immensely rewarding. Gays and lesbians may want to know about welcoming places and events. Parents may want to take their children along on trips. but traveling anywhere with Kinder (kin-der. from toddlers to children).cometogermany. . is a challenge — no doubt about it. I offer advice and resources for all these travelers.Chapter 9 Catering to Special Needs or Interests In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling with your kids ᮣ Discovering discounts and special tours for seniors ᮣ Locating wheelchair-accessible attractions ᮣ Finding lesbigay communities and special events ᮣ Tracing Germany’s Jewish history M any of today’s travelers have special interests or needs. with its section on family travel is a good place to begin researching your trip. Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families Germany is a pretty kid-friendly country. Jewish visitors may want to visit Holocaust memorials and worship in a synagogue.germany-tourism. People with disabilities need to ensure that sites on their itineraries are barrierfree. dragging them thousands of miles away to a country where a different language is spoken may seem like an insurmountable challenge. The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. de or www. In this chapter.

The same is true for public transportation: Low-priced family or group tickets usually are available. and midsize German cities have American-style fast-food places. If you’re traveling with children. Locating family-friendly businesses Most German hotels happily accommodate your family if you reserve your rooms in advance and make the staff aware that you’re traveling with kids. see Chapter 10. which considerably reduces the admission price for a group of two adults and two or more children. In larger cities. in Germany you don’t see many families dining in expensive restaurants.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 91 You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelnetwork.S.thefamilytravelfiles. however. Admission prices for attractions throughout Germany are reduced for children ages 6 to 14. Zeroing in on these places can help you plan your trip more quickly and easily. or bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs). Smaller pensions. local restaurants. On trains. youngsters. Younger teens traveling in Berlin and Munich may want to check out the Hard Rock Cafe in those cities. Look for the Kid Friendly icon as you flip through this book. and the staff can be less than welcoming to children who are not well behaved. and Family Travel Files (www. which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families. I use it to highlight hotels. TravelWithYourKids (www. and tips. an award-winning site that offers travel features. The menus aren’t geared to the tastes of high-toned restaurants in Germany are not particularly welcoming toward young children. you can keep costs down by eating at lowkey. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip find these food chains in smaller villages and withyourkids.familytravelforum. Kids younger than 6 almost always get in for free. children ages 6 to 11 pay half the adult fare. restaurants. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. and attractions that are particularly family friendly. Family Travel Network (www. always check to see whether the attraction offers a money-saving family ticket. even when the place welcomes kids. including Burger King and McDonald’s. these types of arrangements are common. may present problems. Expensive. deals. Berlin. . You won’t. In The establishment may bring in an extra cot or let you share a larger room. For information on passport requirements for children. Ask questions before you reserve. and children younger than 6 travel free. Munich. such as cramped rooms and shared toilet facilities.

Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors Germany won’t present any problems for you if you’re a senior who gets around easily. you may find that some discounts are available only for German or EU (European Union) residents. You can spur your kids’ interest (and your own) by buying a German language tape or checking one out from the library.92 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany The best of the Wurst Your time in Germany may be a good opportunity to introduce your kids to some dishes that they’ve never tried. such as lower prices for German Rail Passes and reduced admission at museums and other attractions. Carrying an ID with proof of age can pay off in all these situations. less-expensive pensions and guesthouses — have elevators. . Note: In Germany. Germany’s ever-present Wurst (voorst. When you reserve a hotel. as they’re called in Germany. sausage) is 100 percent meat with no filler. however. kids can choose from a selection of cereals at most buffet breakfasts in hotels. Always ask. But you can’t take Junior along on this special evening. the selection may not include as many presweetened varieties as in the United States. when you plan your trip. When considering museums. and familiarizing themselves with the sounds of the German language and learning at least a few words. a trip to a museum may try the patience of those children who can’t understand what they’re reading. For something more familiar. In the evening. However. Therefore. Hiring a baby sitter in Germany What you really need is an exciting evening at the opera and a romantic late dinner with a glass of fine German wine. listening to the tape. The staircases in some places are a test for anyone with luggage. Most of the hotels marked with a Kid Friendly icon in this book can help arrange baby-sitting. If not. many of the top museums offer audio guides in English. bear in mind that most German museums do not translate their signage and texts into English. be aware that not all hotels — particularly smaller. ask whether you’ll have access to an elevator or a Fahrstuhl (far-shtool). everyone can spend an hour together. even if the reduction isn’t posted. Being a senior may entitle you to some terrific travel bargains. What are your options? Ask your hotel staff whether they can recommend a local baby-sitting service.

and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill). And you’ll be glad to know that you won’t be graded. www. major tour operators offering trips to Germany. and insurance. ElderTreks (% 800741-7956. accommodations. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market.elderhostel. MA 02210.. not specifically seniors.” “Treasures of the Elbe River Valley. available from Grand Circle Travel (% 800-221-2610 or 617-350-7500.S. www. DC 20049.gct. NW. offers people 55 and older a variety of university-based education programs in Berlin and throughout Germany. private-jet adventures. with trips around the world that include guided safaris. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits. Washington. The price includes airfare. 101 Tips for Mature Travelers. meals. These courses are value-packed.eldertreks. offers member discounts on car rentals and hotels. including discounts on US Airways flights to Frankfurt and Munich from several U. % 866-687-2277. and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers. ߜ Elderhostel (75 Federal St. Boston. www. mostly of the tour-bus variety but also including river cruises along the Rhine and Mosel. cities and discounts on escorted tours from Globus and is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature. INTRAV (% Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon).intrav. polar expeditions. Boston.” and “The Rhine and Mosel River Valleys. MA 02110-1941. With a annual membership of around $13 (anyone 50 or older can join). restricted to travelers 50 and older. Popular Germany offerings in 2006 included “Heartland of Classical offers package deals for the 50-plus market. . by Joann Rattner Heilman. www.gct. hassle-free ways to learn while traveling.” ߜ Grand Circle Travel (347 Congress St.. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond ( offers small-group tours to off-thebeaten-path or adventure-travel Elderhostel (% 877-426-8056) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries around the world. % 877-4268056. 601 E St. discerning traveler. 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 93 The sources in the following list can provide information about discounts and other benefits for seniors: ߜ AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons. travel50andbeyond. % 800221-2610 or 617-350-7500. www.

London EC1V 8AF. % 020/ is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.mossresourcenet. because more options and resources are available than ever before. afb. ߜ The American Foundation for the Blind (% 800-232-5463.. 250 City Rd. specialized accommodations.” containing information on trip planning. Locating resources The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. vehicle rentals. tour operators. travel publishes A World of Options.emerginghorizons. published by SATH. Over the Rainbow. de or www. is a good place to begin researching your trip. which publishes vacation “fact provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. with its section on travel for the disabled.germany-tourism. Survival Strategies for Going travel/index. A disability needn’t stop anybody from traveling. a 658-page book of resources that covers everything from biking trips to scuba offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations. the community Web site iCan (www.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. .uk). and transportation abroad. and a newsletter. % 212447-7284. ߜ The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH. In fact. British travelers with disabilities may want to contact RADAR (Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation. travel agents.miusa. ߜ Mobility International USA (% 541-343-1284.94 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities The German word for disabled is behindert (bee-hin-dert). Germany is one of the more advanced countries in Europe when it comes to accessibility for disabled travelers.icanonline. Here are some other helpful resources in the United States: ߜ The Moss Rehab Hospital (www. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www. ߜ AirAmbulanceCard. For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities.radar. www. www. fax: 212-725-8253. and companion services. access guides. provides general information on accessible 12 City Forum. and Open World Magazine. www. fax: 020/7250-0212.

pronounced roll-shtool) presents unique challenges.seunlimitedtravel. Some 385 train stations throughout the country have lifting aids or mobile ramps. However. bahn. You can also find information (in English) for disabled travelers on its Web site. % 0211/33-68-001. Many hotels in Berlin. www. Most of the older and less expensive pensions and guesthouses don’t have elevators. ߜ The Web site You-Too ( Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair) Traveling in a wheelchair (called a Rollstuhl. Tour operators with trips to Germany include ߜ Accessible Journeys (% 800-846-4537 or 610-521-0339. Munich. www.S. Kirchfeldstrasse 149. you may want to use one of these resources: ߜ Nationale Koordinationsstelle Tourismus für Alle (NatKo. national Tourism Coordination Agency for All has information on the accessibility of public buildings throughout Germany. For many wheelchair-bound travelers. fax: 0211/33-68-760. including free seating reservations for travelers in wheelchairs.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 95 If you can read German. under “Reiseinfos” (Travel Information). in larger ߜ S E Unlimited Travel (% 800-552-9798 in the U. 40215 Dü is the central organization in the country for all inquiries concerning barrier-free travel. disabilitytravel. and accessible activities. On the Web site. or they may not be wide . www. fax: 605-334-0000. accessible accommodations. or public buses are generally wheelchair accessible. Thanks to its comprehensive (click on “Mobilität&Service” and “Handicap”). Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) offers transportation service for the disabled. Several organizations offer tours designed to meet the needs of travelers with disabilities. and the rest of Germany (more in the western part than the east) have rooms for the disabled (these tend to be in larger. The international airports in Munich and Frankfurt are wheelchair accessible. Not all U-Bahn (subway) stations have wheelchair access. You can reserve your seat in advance and get information about traveling with a disability by calling the special Deutsche Bahn number for disabled travelers at % 01805/512-512. Germany offers both options. www. you can find special offers and a list of German tour operators offering special tours and travel opportunities. natko. more modern hotels). But others want the adventures of being on their own. and Canada. an escorted tour is a necessity.

. too (again. call first). Lesbigay travelers may want to time their visits to coincide with these big festivals: ߜ Berlin holds its annual Gay & Lesbian Street Festival in mid-June. Find information on the Web at www. most restaurants are happy to accommodate people with disabilities. gay culture. looking at vineyards and castles. or use one of the travel agencies that specializes in travel for people with disabilities (see “Locating resources. cafes. and Cologne all have large gay communities. Gay and lesbian couples (or friends) qualify for family tickets on public transportation in many Germany cities. Munich. and gay tourism. Larger theaters and performing-arts venues are often wheelchair accessible. or Gruppen (group) tickets. lesbian). the Köln-Düsseldorfer (KD) line has wheelchair-accessible boats (see Chapter 19 for more about KD and Rhine journeys).” earlier in this section). Although not all restaurants provide wheelchair although calling ahead to make arrangements and getting directions to special entrances and/or elevators always is a good idea. dance clubs. If you’re interested in gliding down the Rhine and Mosel rivers. ߜ Munich celebrates Christopher Street Day in mid-July. and community centers exists throughout the With most family. Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians Germany is one of the most “developed” countries in the world when it comes to gay pride. Ask about this issue before you reserve. Most of the top sights in the country are wheelchair accessible. but gay life flourishes outside the big cities.96 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany enough for a wheelchair. Frankfurt. historical areas. stores. you’ll find plenty to do in Deutschland. A network of gay or gay-friendly restaurants. gay) or lesbisch (lez-bish. you have to deal with cobblestones. too. in small towns and large. If you are schwul (shwool. Berlin. celebrates its Christopher Street Day and Parade around the third weekend in June. Also keep in mind that in older. all that matters is that two (or more) individuals travel together. and stages its famous Loveparade in mid-July. Hamburg. Celebrating gay pride in Germany Every summer. bars. parades and special events celebrate gay pride.

ߜ Cologne’s Christopher Street Weekend usually is the first weekend in June. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) maintains a worldwide network of gay and lesbian travelagent professionals who can help you plan your trip. ߜ www. That may explain why German gays and lesbians today are so politically active and determined not to tolerate discrimination.germany-tourism. is a good place to begin researching your trip.stadt. ߜ Frankfurt’s Christopher Street Weekend takes place around the third weekend in July. Germany seems to fall below the radar screen of most gay tour operators (too bad. this site enables you to access a lesbigay guide for each city you want to visit. ߜ Hamburg celebrates with a Gay Pride Parade and Festival around June 8 to This site is a destination service provider for international gay de or www. untold thousands of homosexuals were arrested and sent to their deaths in labor camps. contact IGLTA (% 800-448-8550. Unfortunately. The following are just a few of the other Web sites you may want to check out as you begin to plan your trip to Germany: ߜ PinkPassport (www. www.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 97 Pride and politics Perhaps some of the openness of gay life in Germany today has to do with the murderous antihomosexual policies of the Nazis. Between 1933 and 1945. with its section on gay and lesbian travel. because Berlin is such a great destination for gay tours). leading up to and during World War One of the best all-purpose gay sites — albeit the Web site is in German — for lesbigay travelers planning a trip to Germany. For information on the nearest IGLTA travel agent and gay-friendly resources in Germany. Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators If you want to keep your hard-earned travel money pink.”) .org). You can select a city in Germany and find out pertinent travel-related information. Researching German lesbigay life on the Web The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. (By the way. Stadt means “city. you can use a gay travel service.iglta.

numbering around 70. Germany’s Jewish population is the third-largest in Western or www. and memorials in large part because many Jewish people from the former Soviet Union are choosing to live in Germany.gaykoeln. I can’t even begin to scratch the surface of this huge and sensitive issue.munich. when systematic persecution. Throughout the or www.gayweb. and Buchenwald (Chapter 14). Throughout the synagogues have been restored. and www. Jews from all levels of society contributed to German This free booklet presents an overview of Jewish history and lists recommended places to visit and what to see. For assistance in planning your itinerary. seizure of property and assets. One of the most remarkable is the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) in Berlin (Chapter 12). completed in Berlin in 2005 between the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz. www. The most moving memorials are at Dachau (Chapter 15). and extermination policies created horrors that are almost beyond comprehension.frankfurt. contact the German National Tourist Office ( and request a copy of Germany for the Jewish Traveler. www.cometogermany. and one of the few that’s actually growing. Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany In this guidebook. Another is the Holocaust memorial. Several places are dedicated to remembering the Jewish experience in this The Germany you visit today is a democratic federal republic sensitive to the Try the following Web sites for information on specific cities: www. the largest in Europe.000. Jewish life in Germany dates back hundreds of years. Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ Specific city Web sites. near Munich. near Weimar. Large Jewish communities flourished in cities throughout Germany until the Nazi era. . Special and very emotional issues confront Jewish visitors to Germany.

Complete a passport application in person at a U. D Getting a Passport A valid passport is the only legal form of identification accepted around the world. State Department passport Web site. passport If you’re applying for a first-time passport. go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the passport. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the or probate court. Australia. but the process takes some time. follow these steps: 1. To find your regional passport office.Chapter 10 Taking Care of the Remaining Details In This Chapter ᮣ Obtaining a passport ᮣ Taking care of your health: Travel and medical insurance ᮣ Communicating via cellphone and e-mail ᮣ Dealing with airline security measures o you have an up-to-date passport? Have you taken steps to meet your health needs while on your trip? Are you wondering how to use a cellphone or access e-mail while in Germany? This chapter gives you the information you need. or Canada. If you’re a citizen of the United States.state.S. Applying for a U.state. either check the U. or a major post office.S. state. . You can’t cross an international border without one.html. http://travel. State Department at http://travel.S. a federal. passport office. Getting a passport is easy. you must have a valid passport to enter Germany. or call the National Passport Information Center (% 877-487-2778) for automated information.

Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade. or Social Security card also is a good idea.gc. but it can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). Present a certified birth certificate as proof of citizenship. you can download passport applications from the U. measuring 2 inches by 2 inches in size.ppt. Note: You can’t use a strip from a photo-vending machine because the pictures aren’t identical. but applications must be submitted in person. For those 15 and younger. and from the central Passport Office. you can receive your passport in as little as 24 hours. Ontario K1A 0G3 (% 800-567-6868. Using this service.passports. You often find businesses that take these photos near a passport office. grainy-looking photos composed of visible dots are not acceptable. a passport is valid for ten years and costs $97. at post offices.S. and paying the appropriate fees. and the United Kingdom: ߜ Australians can visit a local post office or passport office. a passport is valid for five years and costs $ Whether you’re applying in person or by mail. In addition. Canada. American Passport Express (% or log on to www. the digital photographs must have a continuous-tone image that looks very photolike. call the National Passport Agency (% 202-647-0518). state or military for details on how and where to apply. You can also . Forms can be completed and printed online at the Web site. Ottawa. ߜ Canadians can pick up applications at passport offices throughout Canada. but they must meet the same requirements for all passport photographs. For people 16 and older. New Zealand. processing normally takes three weeks. Pay the fee. www. State Department passport Web site (http://travel.americanpassport. you can renew the passport by mail for $67. www. 4. call the Australia State Passport Office (% 131-232 toll-free from Australia). 3. Submit two identical passport-size photos.100 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany 2. You may submit digital photos that have been printed on your printer at home. If you have a passport in your current name that was issued within the past 15 years and you were older than 16 when it was Bringing along your driver’s license. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport. com) is a service that can expedite the processing of your first-time passport application. Applying for other passports The following list offers more information for citizens of Australia. For general information.

as many travelers discovered who tried to cancel their trips in October 2001 because they were wary of Applications must be accompanied by two identical passport-size photographs and proof of Canadian citizenship. to travel to other EU countries. Make sure. For information. your age and health. if you already have a passport. or about three weeks by mail. For more information.) A good resource is “Travel Guard Alerts. contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (% 0870-521-0410.passports. and the type of trip you’re taking. or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. carrying the document with you is a good idea. Here is my advice on all three: ߜ Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip. Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance Three kinds of travel insurance are available: trip-cancellation insurance.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 101 download an application form from the Passport Office Web site. The cost of travel insurance varies widely. or log on to ߜ New Zealanders can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the Passports Office Web site. govt. a convenient and often cost-effective way for the traveler to obtain insurance. ߜ United Kingdom residents. Protect yourself further by paying for the insurance with a credit card — by law. Note: Many tour operators include insurance in the cost of the trip or can arrange insurance policies through a partnering provider. and lost-luggage www. depending on the cost and length of your trip. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. Processing takes five to ten days if you apply in person. however. that the tour company is a reputable one. However. not a passport.” a list of companies considered high-risk by Travel Guard International (www. as a member of the European Union. insured. such as Germany. Some experts suggest you avoid buying insurance from .ukpa. medical insurance. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears. contact the Passports Office at % 0800225-050 in New Zealand or but expect to pay between 5 percent and 8 percent of the vacation itself. consumers can get their money back on goods and services not received if they report the loss within 60 days after the charge is listed on their credit-card statement. if you have to go home early. need only an identity card.

find out whether your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy. Don’t buy insurance at the airport. For travel overseas. and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. www.worldwide assistance.500 per ticketed passenger. www.travelguard. or Travelex Insurance Services (% 888457-4602. travelinsured.accessamerica. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage. you must report delayed. portions of international trips). Even if your plan covers overseas treatment. . As a safety net. www. Travel Guard International (% 800-826-4919. or lost baggage within four hours of arrival. For most airlines.102 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the tour or cruise company you’re traveling with. contact TAI’s service provider. www. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability. The airlines are required to deliver luggage. saying it’s better to buy from a third-party insurer than to put all your money in one place.travelassistance. or buy the BagTrak product from Travel Guard (% 800-826-4919. ߜ Lost-luggage insurance is not necessary for most travelers. checked baggage is covered for up to $2. guard. com) try MEDEX Assistance (% 410-4536300. If your luggage is lost. damaged.medexassist. you may want to buy travel medical insurance. because it’s usually overpriced. for general information on TAI’s For more and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront before reimbursing you only after you return home. If you require additional medical insurance. baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9. once found. most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage. On international flights (including U. www.07 per pound. detailing the luggage contents. most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront and send you a refund only after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance or Travel Assistance International (TAI) (% up to approximately $635 per checked bag. On domestic flights. Travel Insured International (% 800-243-3174. contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (% 866-807-3982. immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport. www. directly to your house or destination free of charge. Worldwide Assistance Services (% 800-777-8710. because many valuables (including books.travelex-insurance. get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travelinsurance package.

If you have an emergency and need a prescription filled after-hours or on weekends. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (% 716-754-4883 for tips about travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and lists of local English-speaking doctors. make sure the box or container has the pharmacy’s label with your name on it. ask the concierge or hotelkeeper to recommend a local doctor. If you fall ill while traveling. dial % 112 (a free call anywhere in Germany). iamat. diabetes.) At night and on weekends. the bugs weren’t listening to me any more than they probably listen to you). cdc. If you have a serious and/or chronic illness. not brand-name.) A pharmacy in Germany is called an Apotheke (pronounced ah-po-tay-kuh). 416-652-0137. wear a MedicAlert identification tag (% 888-633-4298. (Arzt. For information on purchasing additional medical insurance for your trip. For travel abroad. if you need to carry medications with you onboard. com. in Canada. is the German word for a medical www. The Web site www. most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. (Remember: Current airline security regulations do not allow you to carry on liquids in containers larger than 3 ounces. The U. and prescriptions for more (in generic.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 103 Staying Healthy When You Travel Getting sick will ruin your vacation. you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Bring all your medications with you. you can call the Ärtzlicher Notdienst (Medical Emergency Service) listed in the telephone directory. and they take turns staying open all night and on weekends.istm. or heart problems. www. For conditions such as epilepsy. may also offer helpful advice on traveling A notice will be posted in the window providing the address and telephone number of the closest on-duty pharmacy. the number for general emergencies.tripprep. which immediately alerts doctors to your condition and gives them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. see the previous section. The word for hospital is Krankenhaus (pronounced kronk-in-house). sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners.S. go to any pharmacy. pronounced artst. In a life-threatening situation. so I strongly advise against it (of course. medicalert. form) if you worry that you’ll run out. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www. www. . For domestic trips. Pharmacies are open regular shopping hours. talk to your doctor before leaving on a trip. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (% 800-311-3435. last time I provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety.

If you have an unlocked phone. renting a phone is a good idea. prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in Germany. the staff will be able to direct you to the nearest cybercafe. you can purchase a prepaid German SIM card with call credit already incorporated and easily add more talk time to the SIM card if needed.50 in western Europe. not all phones work on all networks. Having an unlocked phone enables you to install a cheap. Getting an already-locked phone unlocked can be a complicated process. Many cellphone operators sell “locked” phones that restrict you from using any removable computer memory phone chip (called a SIM card) other than the ones they supply. or Samsung models are so equipped — you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe. (Show your phone to the salesperson. just call your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to use the phone with a local provider. keep in mind that your U. phone won’t work in Germany without a special chip. and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. but it can be done.S. is to use a prepaid phone card and the hotel phone.) You’ll get a local phone number — and much. Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. only a limited number of carriers use GSM. In this section. you either need to have a friend or relative in Germany purchase the card for you or buy one in North America before your departure. For that reason. although possible. if you want to purchase a German SIM card in Germany. That’s why it’s important to buy an “unlocked” world phone from the get-go. seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. Although you can rent a phone from any number of German sites. in Canada. you’ll be asked for proof of residency. costs a lot. Collecting e-mail is fairly easy in Germany: If you can’t do it at your hotel. Unfortunately. The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles). including kiosks at airports . and renting a phone in Germany. If your cellphone is on a GSM system.S. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. so you need to check with your carrier. and you have a world-capable multiband phone — many Sony Ericsson. Motorola. from Andorra to Uganda. In the U. per-minute charges can be high — usually $1 to $1. I’ve found. I provide general information on using cellphones and sending or receiving e-mail in Germany. much lower calling rates.104 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail The cheapest and easiest way to call home from Germany. Using a cellphone outside the U. a big. For many. If you’re accustomed to using a cellphone. However.S.

independent businesses — two places to start looking are at www. But even if you don’t have a and 4 p. Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. www. but others charge high rates to go online. Accessing the Internet away from home You have any number of ways to check your e-mail and access the Internet on the road.m. If you’re traveling to Europe. Finding a city in Germany that doesn’t have a few cybercafes is hard to do. though. where local phone-rental agencies often bill in local currency and may not let you take the phone to another country. give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. hotel lobbies. a mobile phone is called a Handy (pronounced as it’s spelled).htm. These kiosks. Of course. Some business centers in large luxury hotels are free for guests.intouchglobal. You’ll usually pay $40 to $50 per simply call % 703222-7161 between 9 and and RoadPost (% 888-290-1606 or 905-2725665. Phone rental isn’t cheap. local rental companies often offer free incoming calls within their home Give them your itinerary. make sure the phone works. And most public libraries around the world offer Internet access free or for a small charge. InTouch also will advise you for free on whether your existing phone will work overseas. . plus airtime fees of at least a dollar a minute. www. or go to http://intouch global. after all. and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need. The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price mean they need to be avoided whenever possible. which can save you big bucks. most youth hostels nowadays have at least one computer with Internet access. Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (% 800-872-7626. which you’ll also see in shopping malls.cybercafe. you still can access your e-mail and even your office computer from cybercafes. and tourist information offices around the world. Although no definitive directory exists for cybercafes — they are. I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. Aside from formal cybercafes. using your own laptop — or even a personal digital assistant (PDA) or electronic organizer with a modem — gives you the most flexibility. That way you can give loved ones and business associates your new number. In Germany. The bottom line: Shop around.m. and take the phone wherever you go — especially helpful for overseas trips through several countries. EST.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 105 and at car-rental agencies.

The companies’ pricing policies can be byzantine. If you need to access files on your office computer. Some places also provide free wireless networks in cities around the world.11b/WiFi card (around $50) into your laptop.S. T-Mobile Hotspot (http://hotspot. networking hardware.000 Starbucks coffee shops through a plan offered by one of several commercial companies that have made wireless service available in airports.personaltelco. you don’t need to be staying at the Four Seasons to use the hotel’s network. (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option.gotomypc.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account automatically. To locate these free and Wayport (www. The service offers top-quality but Hotmail has severe spam problems. Best of all. The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere — even a cybercafe — provided your target PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). Going Wireless If you’re bringing your own computer. go to www. look into a service called GoToMyPC (www. You sign up for wireless access service much as you do cellphone service.boingo. and more and more hotels.ipass. per-connection. the current buzzword in computer access is WiFi (wireless fidelity). you can use the free mail2web service (www. or a phone line. Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail. If you have an older computer. com) providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. primarily in the U. but if you’re worried about hackers. cafes.wayport. and retailers are signing on as wireless hotspots where you can get highspeed connection without cable wires. and per-minute plans. hotel lobbies. with a variety of monthly. and Japan).com). (followed by the U.11b wireless Ethernet connection). If your ISP doesn’t have such an interface. iPass (www. just set yourself up on a nice couch in the lobby. use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe computer to access the GoToMyPC serves up wireless connections at more than 1. you may want to open a free. Boingo ( index. . For more to view and reply to your home e-mail.106 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany To retrieve your e-mail.cgi/WirelessCommunities. ask your Internet service provider (ISP) whether it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account.mail2web. you can plug an 802. Many laptops sold during the last year have built-in WiFi capability (an 802. prices are likely to get even more competitive. Mac owners have their own networking technology called Apple AirPort. and coffee have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. but in general you pay around $30 a month for limited access — and as more and more companies jump on the wireless bandwagon.

and sometimes even the gate. but they do for international flights to most countries. Generally.S.) If you’re using a kiosk at the airport. and a spare Ethernet network cable — or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline’s Web site. tell an airline employee and she’ll probably whisk you to the front of the line. security procedures at U. go to www.S. In addition. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. you’ll be fine as long as you arrive at the airport one hour before a domestic flight and two hours before an international flight. (At present. (Children younger than 18 do not need government-issued photo IDs for domestic flights. accessing your reservation.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 107 If WiFi isn’t available. Keeping Up with Airline Security With the federalization of airport security. Check your ISP’s Web site or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home. and how much it will cost. For a list of iPass providers. you can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from your home computer. If you’re traveling outside the reach of your ISP. major ISPs have local access numbers around the world. online check-in is available for domestic flights only. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider. if you show up late. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in. airports.ipass. the security checkpoint. enabling you to go online by simply placing a local and click on “Individual Purchase. bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. and many hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable. If you have an E-ticket.i2roam. the iPass network has dial-up numbers in most of the world’s countries. a spare phone cord. Wherever you go. and you’ll be required to show your passport at that time. bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters.” One solid provider is i2roam (% 866-811-6209 or 920-235-0475. you’ll be . And E-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. which then tells you how to set up your computer for your destination. and printing out your boarding pass — and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. you will need to show your passport at check-in).) The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U. Call your hotel in advance to see what your options are. government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport (for international www. if you’re flying on to Germany you’ll have to use the “oldfashioned” airport check-in at the airline’s ticket counter. Bring a current.

travelsentry. You can now purchase luggage locks that enable screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary. Security-checkpoint lines are getting shorter. visit www. Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system. but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available.S. it’s still considered a personal item. except for folks escorting disabled passengers or children. Look for Travel Sentry–certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www. com). Bring food in your carryon instead of checking it. The general rule is that sharp things are out. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks. your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage. such as a purse. These locks are approved by the TSA and can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security. check its Web site (www.jsp) for details. Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. as long as it has a laptop in it. a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. briefcase. but some doozies public/index. call before you go. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted however. are allowed one carry-on bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag. the airline will provide a wheelchair. Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. a few airlines still ban curbside check-in. Travelers in the U. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time. Curbside check-in also is a good way to avoid lines. For more information on the locks.brookstone. . or laptop bag. for some reason) for bombs. plus a personal item. because explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate. nail clippers are okay. If you’ve got metallic body parts. tell an airline employee.tsa. and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine — but security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee cup.108 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany able to do so using most airline kiosks.

Part III Northern and Eastern Germany .

with so many historic buildings that UNESCO recognizes the city as a World Heritage Site. . . and finding the best hotels and restaurants. I devote two chapters to Berlin. and location on the Elbe River. or Bremen. I introduce you to the best places to visit in this newly opened region: Dresden.H In this part . and nowhere more so than in Berlin. istory has left its mark throughout northern and eastern Germany. getting around. Leipzig. Since reunification in 1990. and Weimar. Chapter 11 fills you in on all the Berlin basics: getting there. a busy business city where the “peaceful revolution” began. the region’s largest city and greatest port. All three of these cities were members of the powerful Hanseatic League that ruled the seas and dominated trade in northern Europe for hundreds of years. . the country’s “new” capital. is the focus of Chapter 13. I also tell you about visiting the Thuringian Forest and taking a boat trip into the scenic region known as Saxon Switzerland. In Chapter 14. eastern Germany has been in the midst of a major building and rebuilding boom. From Hamburg you can make an easy side trip to beautiful Lübeck. with its superb museums. city of Goethe and one of Germany’s cultural jewels. I devote Chapter 12 to exploring the largest and most exciting city in Germany. In Chapter 14. Northern Germany. I tell you all about Hamburg. historic panache. bordering the Baltic and the North Sea. full of proud reminders of its seafaring past.

The wall went up in 1961. with the wall down and Deutschland reunited. during the Berlin Airlift of 1948. you see a city in transition. Berlin once again is the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany. and I would urge anyone visiting Germany to spend at least a couple of days here. You can dive into Berlin on many levels. and for almost 30 years. have always been a breed apart. But. cultured. Berliners. train.S. Your experiences can be as sophisticated. Their cosmopolitan live-and-let-live attitude. This city has seen it all — Prussian power.Chapter 11 Settling Into Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Berlin ᮣ Traveling from the airport into the city ᮣ Orienting yourself to the neighborhoods ᮣ Getting around by subway. food and supplies had to be flown in because the Soviets blockaded the city. Berlin has a kind of inexhaustible energy. artistic brilliance. present. and bus ᮣ Choosing your hotel ᮣ Picking a good restaurant ᮣ Finding a cafe or brewpub erlin is. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. or raunchy as you want them to be. perhaps because they’ve been through so much. In many ways it’s a new city — and yet. even as the city reinvents itself yet again. and Russian sectors. When you’re in Berlin.” That old song lyric meaning “Berlin always remains Berlin” still holds true. Berlin was split in two. You feel a sense of immediacy in Berlin because everything is happening at once — past. even if you don’t speak German. both triumph and tragedy. British. much of Berlin was reduced to smoldering rubble. and Nazi terror — and survived to tell the tale. Later. The city then was divided into U.” B . and future meet and meld all over the place. for my money. gives the city an added bite. laced with sharp-edged humor and sarcastic irreverence.. By the end of World War II (WWII). “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. physically and politically. a fizz and a flair and a drive that you find nowhere else in Germany. the most exciting city in Europe. endless political upheaval. part of the reason why a visit here is so intriguing. Now.

S. depending on what airline you use. the central train station in the western part of the city near Kurfürstendamm. Friedrichstrasse. see “Getting Around Berlin. Berlin has two airports. you have to change planes in Frankfurt or another European city.m.–7 p. you can take a bus or taxi. Berlin’s main tourist information center is at the nearby Europa Center (see “Finding Information After You Arrive” later in this chapter). open daily 7:30 a.112 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Getting There You can arrive in Germany’s capital and largest city by plane. To get into central Berlin from Tegel. or car. On the bus. www. airlines to offer direct flights to Berlin from within the United States (Continental flies from Newark to Berlin Tegel.50).berlin-airport. you can connect to the U-Bahn or the S-Bahn (elevated train).10€ ($2. The X9 takes about 20 minutes to reach Zoo Station. which travels down Kurfürstendamm and takes about 30 minutes. The X9 also goes to the Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). you find currency-exchange windows and a small branch of the tourist information center (no phone. Another bus that goes to Zoo Station is Bus 109. Arriving at Berlin International Airport in Tegel Tegel (TXL) airport (% 0180/5000-186. From there you can change to the subway and reach any destination.” later in this chapter. use euro coins (no bills) to buy your ticket from the driver. and Unter den Linden in Mitte. . connects to the Jakob-Kaiser-Platz U-Bahn (underground train) station. Four buses run from the airport into central both with easy public-transportation connections to the city at standard public fares. ߜ A taxi ride to central Berlin (east or west) costs 16€ to 20€ ($20– $25) and takes about 20 minutes. The facility recently was revamped to make it more passenger-friendly. the regular two-zone A/B fare. (For information on public transportation.) where you can pick up free city-transit maps and general-interest brochures and buy a bus ticket into town. Buses arrive outside the airport terminal.m. train. Delta flies from New York JFK to Berlin Tegel). tickets for each of them cost 2. ߜ Bus X9. Berlin’s main and most convenient airport. another express bus. where you also find the taxi stand. On all other flights from the United States.) ߜ TXL Express Bus runs about every ten minutes between the airport and Potsdamer Platz. the “new” center of Berlin. Inside the terminal. At the train station. is on the outskirts of central Berlin in Reinickedorf. By plane Continental and Delta are the only U.

eastern sector. and other Allied forces brought food and supplies to the city during the Soviet blockade. The S-Bahn station is a ten-minute walk from the airport terminal. Europe’s newest and largest train station. The airport also was the base for the Berlin Airlift in 1948. U-Bahn. Schönefeld. As part of a new plan for Berlin airports. when this spectacular new travel hub opened.10€ ($2. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). From the U-Bahn station. now mostly used for low-cost airlines and European charter flights. Tegel also will close.-built Tegel airport served West Berlin. served travelers to the city’s Communist. or you can take Bus 171. Taxis wait outside the terminal. the U. built in the 1920s. call the Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). is the old East Berlin airport. an S-Bahn that leaves the Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld station about every 20 minutes for central www.S. while another airport. subways (U-Bahn).de). was Berlin’s main airport during the Third Reich.hbf-berlin. Tempelhof was closed in October 2004 and a massive $4-billion expansion of Schönefeld airport now is underway. a shuttle service that runs from the airport to the S-Bahn station and the Rudow U-Bahn station. located about 24km (15 miles) southeast of the city. Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof All long-distance high-speed trains now arrive at and depart from the Hauptbahnhof. reunified Berlin was . and Bahnhof Zoo (about a 30minute journey) in the western center of Berlin. Until 2006. www. Europa Platz 1 (% 0800-1507090 for train schedules. During the Cold War. Bus. By train You can reach Berlin by train from everywhere in Europe. All longdistance trains now arrive and depart from the spectacular new Hauptbahnhof (main train station). stopping at Alexanderplatz and Fredrichstrasse in Berlin Mitte (eastern Berlin). For 24-hour train information. When the project is completed. when U. in 2011. All air traffic will then be consolidated into a single hub called Berlin Brandenburg International Airport. or S-Bahn fare is 2. A taxi ride to the Alexanderplatz area in Mitte takes about 45 to 60 minutes and costs about 50€ ($62).Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 113 A tale of three airports Tempelhof. you can take the U7 subway to Bahnhof Zoo in about 50 Arriving at Berlin-Schönefeld Schönefeld (SXF) (% 01805/000-186. The Hauptbahnhof and all of Berlin’s smaller railway stations (for regional service) are connected to public buses. The easiest way to get into town from this airport is by Airport Express.

m. % 01805/996-633). getting around by public transportation is far easier than by car. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). Whether you’re staying in western or eastern Berlin. The drive from Frankfurt or Munich takes about eight hours. On the main floor at the north end of the station there’s a BERLIN infostore (open daily 8 a. where you can purchase train tickets and make seat reservations (both centers open daily 6 a. See “Driving a car. to 10 p. you’ll be pulling into this remarkable. you can pick up a free public-transportation map and buy tickets and special passes for buses. the main artery in western Berlin. Unless you arrive by a local. to 9 p. it’s now used only for regional trains but remains a busy hub for local U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains. where you find dozens of shops and food options.m. It’s an enormous place but it’s been designed to facilitate up to 300. Unless you know this huge city well. maps and Berlin-related books. After you’re in Berlin. this was the main western train station until the Hauptbahnhof opened in 2006. for the first time in its history. Here you can use the hotel booking service (3€/$3. Hardenbergplatz 11.m.” later in this chapter). regional train. elevators (the entire station is barrier-free) or escalators carry you up to the first and second floors. a car is a nuisance. . and tickets to all of Berlin’s opera houses.m.m.m.75). three enter from the east. Trains arrive and depart on the lowest level (track numbers easily identified). user-friendly terminal. buy the Berlin Welcome Card (described under “Getting Around Berlin.–10 p. Inside the station.). The station has two travel centers. the SchauLUST Museum Pass (see Chapter 12). getting to your hotel from the Hauptbahnhof couldn’t be easier. for general driving tips in the city. underground trains (U-Bahn). the pavilion is open daily from 6 a.m.m. The fate of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Usually called Bahnhof Zoo (Zoo Station. you’ll want to keep the car parked at your hotel or in a garage. the name given to Berlin’s tourist information centers. In fact. depending on traffic.000 travelers every day with a minimum of confusion. concert venues. the train travel office Reisezentrum Bahnhof Zoo (% 030/19419) is open daily from 7 a. Located close to Kurfürstendamm.). to handle train tickets and information.–10 p.” later in this chapter. At the BVG-Pavilion outside the station. By car Four Autobahn (freeway) routes enter Berlin from western Germany. Berlin has one central station. The entrance to the S-Bahn (marked by a green S) is on the second floor of the station. however. the entrance to the U-Bahn (marked by a U) is on the first floor. and theaters (half-price tickets are sold for performances that day). Now.114 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany served by several smaller stations.

and wilder than its drab eastern counterpart.. to 8 p. West Berlin was richer.–6 p. to 8 p.75). getting a handle on this sprawling. (Nov–Mar daily 10 a. Even though the wall has been down since 1989.. the SchauLUST museum pass (Chapter 12).m.m.–6 p. or Bahnhof Zoo for short. Orienting Yourself in Berlin Covering some 60 square miles.) Introducing western Berlin From 1961 to 1989. to 6 p.). and Sunday from 10 a. Berlin is one of the world’s largest cities.m.m. It’s open daily from 10 a. open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 6 p. and in the Berlin Pavilion at the Reichstag.m.40€ (50¢) per minute. and half-price music and theater tickets.m.m. Berlin has five walk-in infostores: ߜ The main office in western Berlin is in the newly revamped shopping “passage” called Neues Kranzler Eck. near the Ku-Damm. You can also buy the Berlin Welcome Card (see “Transportation basics” later in this chapter).). close to Bahnhof Zoo (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten).m. open daily from 10 a. it costs a minimum of 0. For first-time visitors.m. (Nov–Mar 10 a. (See the “Berlin Neighborhoods” map in this chapter. The infostores operate one information line (% 030/25-00-25). open daily 8:30 a.m.m. you can find information or book a hotel room (for a fee of 3€/$3. The zoo . Kurfürstendamm 21 (at Joachimstaler Strasse).m. the first and simplest way to understand Berlin is still to think in terms of the old political boundaries of West and East. to 7 p.m.m. in the Hauptbahnhof (see “Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof. Scheidermannstrasse. West Berlin was an island of capitalism inside Communist East Germany. ߜ Another infostore is located under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at Alexanderplatz.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 115 Finding Information After You Arrive At a BERLIN infostore. The train station Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten. showier. West Berlin’s glitziest artery was — and remains — the 4km-long (21⁄2mile) boulevard known as Kurfürstendamm. complex metropolis can be difficult. The office is open Monday to Saturday 10 a.m. is the major transportation hub on the western side of the city and a good landmark for orienting yourself. you find infostore branches in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden).” earlier in this chapter). or the Ku-Damm for short. weekends 9 a.. bus and subway tickets.m. ߜ In eastern Berlin.m. to 6 p. to 6 p. The city’s main attractions now are spread almost evenly across the whole city.

Ott oSuh rAlle e nkl inst r Schloss Charlottenburg M . See “Tiergarten-area Attractions” map Hohenst aufenstr. S WESTKREUZ S SAVIGNYPLATZ m dam rsten Kurfü Tau en tz Str ass e er pest Budarasse St ien str . Bismarckstr Ha Str. Wittenbergplatz Kle Kons tan Stras zer se Uhlandstr. ch g is b ur Brande n a sse Str m am nd ler l o z en oh er dt tä lfs do Ru r he ru hs e ric ass ied tr Fr S e See “Western Berlin Accomodations and Dining” map e ss ra St WILMERSDORF . CHARLOTTENBURG Spandau Kaiserdamm Ma stra rchsse B str achass e strasse Weg TIERGARTEN Le ve tzo ws tra sse BELLEVUE S HANSAVIERTEL 17. m dam rsten Kurfü HALENSEE S H Fehrbelliner Platz Bundesallee Grunewald S HOHENZOLLERNDAMM H m am nd r lle zo en oh SCHÖNEBERG rg bu se len tras k ec S M he isc S Hundekehlestrasse Breit e St rass e SCHÖNEBERG Dahlem FRIEDENAU Ha up tst ras se r.Allee F ra mm Spandauer Da Spree Ca ue rst r.116 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Berlin Neighborhoods Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Kur t-Sc h um ach er D am m SIEMENSSTADT SIEMENSSTADT To Berlin-Tegel Airport sse se tra s es stra e S e Se See “Charlottenburg Attractions” map Putlitzstrasse Lessin gstrasse Stromstr. orfe Wilm e rsd Friedrich- TIERGARTEN S . ms t isha Lew Europa Center urger Lietzenb i s ts tr. gens Sickin S i e m e ns s tra sse MOABIT Turmstra sse e wstrass Quitzo r e rg be e rle ass Pe Str Beusselstrasse Tegeler ier str end as or se ff- Schlossgarten Kaiserin. Strasse des Juni Kaiser r Str. Damm eler kanal Goerd thafen Munich Wes trasse ohrn-S Max-D . Olbe ssstr Gau strassrse tr.Augusta. Neue Kantstrasse CHARLOTTENBURG S Kantstrasse Leibniz- Savignyplatz S en rd be rg s tr ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN .

5 km PRENZLAUER BERG Prin zen stra sse Str as se t Rosen en alid Inv S sse stra ck. S .Pie elm h il W O ra n ien S Strass e HAUPTBAHNHOF– LEHRTER BAHNHOF Sp ree Pariser Platz S bur HACKESCHER ger Str MARKT Alexander.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 117 WEDDING Schönhauser Allee nn Fe se as str s au Ch e ss tra es se NORDBAHNHOF S 0 0 0. Str as se M da üh m len m - den Unter den Lin Friedrich- Museumsinsel NIKOLAIVIERTEL Ge rt str raud as en se - Kar l-M arx -Al lee JANNOWITZBRÜCKE TIERGARTEN UNTER DEN LINDEN BERLINMITTE S n d w ehrkanal Schöneb Potsda mer S tra sse e ANHALTER BAHNHOF Lin den stra s La S fe r em p e l hofe r Ufe Gitschiner Strasse r La n d sse stra rck o Y S Gne is YORCKSTRASSE KREUZBERG enau stras se Kolonnenstrasse Katzbackstrasse Dudenstrasse Columbiadamm asse nstr hafe Flug To BerlinSchönefeld Airport B o elck es trasse Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Hei nric Strah-Hein sse e- POTSDAMER S Leipziger Platz PLATZ e Leipziger Strass se Or an ien str ass e wehrka nal Urb a nst ras se Hase nheid e Brü stra cken sse - Gr eif sw al d er e ass str ide He rg U er h al e r St rasse Invalidenst e rass See Berlin-Mitte maps d e rs xan Ale tr.5 mi N 0. Spre e strasse nan m se re St se as str T wBülo sse stra S-Bahn stop S .platz FRIEDRICHht c e STRASSE kn b S Lie rl Ka Mo lls t r.

Schöneberg Like Kreuzberg. Dahlem originally was established as an independent village to the southwest of Berlin’s center. Charlottenburg The district known as Charlottenburg is the wealthiest and most commercialized in western Berlin. theaters. and department stores. and cafes fill the neighborhood around Savignyplatz. about 35 percent of its population is composed of Gastarbeiter (guest workers) from Turkey. near Potsdamer Platz. and the Berggruen Sammlung (Collection).118 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany itself is part of the Tiergarten. a shopping center and entertainment complex. rises just across the plaza from the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis Kirche (Memorial Church) near the Ku-Damm and Zoo Station. and Greece. Up until reunification. the district became home to the city’s artistic countercultural scene. because they have an interior courtyard) constructed for the workers of a rapidly industrializing Prussia. Although gentrification is taking place. dedicated to the history of divided Berlin. you find the best concentration of hotels. close to . nightclubs. but you may want to come here to visit the Brücke Museum. The area is more residential than hotel-oriented. The borough is centrally located. with lots of bars and clubs. restaurants. which runs through it. which has plenty of hotels and pensions (B&Bs). one of Berlin’s three opera houses. Kreuzberg traditionally has been the poorest and most crowded of western Berlin’s districts. Charlottenburg’s regal centerpiece is Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace). Charlottenburg also is the home of the Deutsche Oper Berlin (German Opera House). many of whom have now lived here for 30 years or more. most of them have now moved farther into the city. the neighborhood remains funky around the edges. After WWII. Starting in the 1960s and 1970s. Dahlem was the site of western Berlin’s major museums. a tree-lined square a short walk north of Kurfürstendamm. a beautiful park stretching east and ending at the cultural center known as the Kulturforum. Upscale shops. The 22-story Europa Center. cafes. Kreuzberg is where you find the new Jüdisches (Jewish) Museum and the small museum called Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. with its lovely gardens and nearby museums: the Ägyptisches (Egyptian) Museum. Kreuzberg Filled with 19th-century tenement buildings (called Hinterhof. Dahlem Now the university district. the Bröham Museum. This neighborhood no longer is a convenient place to stay. Along the famous Ku-Damm. the area was rebuilt as a middle-class neighborhood. makes a convenient base for visitors. shops. Charlottenburg. Today. however. the former Yugoslavia. restaurants. Schöneberg developed in the 19th century as an independent suburb for workers.

Wilmersdorf is a quiet residential neighborhood filled with an excellent assortment of hotels and pensions and plenty of low-key restaurants and cafes. Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) Berlin-Mitte. now called Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt and used for .and 19th-century palaces and monuments. on the east side of Tiergarten park. also is in Berlin-Mitte. contains the Berlin Zoo in its southwest corner. contains a series of residential buildings designed in the late 1950s by different architects. Wannsee is the most popular lake for swimming and boating. The Hansaviertel (Hans Quarter).) The beautiful neoclassical square called Gendarmenmarkt. is the new name of the central section of former East Berlin. the famed Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery).Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 119 the Ku-Damm. Berlin-Mitte symbolically begins at Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. Wilmersdorf The huge park called the Grünewald (groo-nuh-vald) takes up the western portion of this borough. occupying the northwest section of Tiergarten. originally intended as a backdrop to the grand avenues laid out by the German kaisers. and other museums. just off Unter den Linden. this area was. is lined with 18th.” and it refers both to western Berlin’s massive urban park and a business-residential district of the same name. Wilmersdorf is a very pleasant borough in which to stay. the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). Berlin’s third opera house. I recommend giving this fascinating area at least a full day of your time. The oldest and most historic part of Berlin. Berlin-Mitte has numerous attractions. (The Komische Oper. in fact. the center of Berlin. home of the Philharmonic (Philharmonic Hall). The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is the main opera house in eastern Berlin. which starts at the Brandenburg Gate and extends east. This 38-sq. All in all. is where you find the magnificently restored early-19th-century Schauspielhaus (theater). Tiergarten is one of the best areas in Berlin for hotels and restaurants. The Tiergarten park. Before the war and the division of the city. The Tiergarten neighborhood also contains the Kulturforum. The grand boulevard called Unter den Linden. Berlin’s densest concentration of gay bars and clubs is in Schöneberg between Nollendorfplatz and Victoria-Luise-Platz. also called Stadtmitte (City Center) or just plain Mitte (Center). Closer in. Walter Gropius. including Le Corbusier.-km (15-sq.-mile) lake-filled forest begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm and is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. with good U-Bahn connections and many hotels and pensions. Tiergarten The name Tiergarten means “Animal Garden. Tiergarten also is where you find the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag (Parliament) building. toward the Ku-Damm. Both areas formerly stood behind the Berlin Wall and now are full of new buildings and ongoing construction. and Alvar Aalto.

a square named for Russian Czar Alexander I. and not to everyone’s liking: Eight skyscrapers will eventually surround Alexanderplatz and reduce the prominence of the Soviet-era Fernsehturm (TV tower). site of four major museums. the transportation hub of Berlin-Mitte. Period taverns and riverside restaurants make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque stroll. the S-Bahn (surface or elevated train). is regaining its prewar reputation as Berlin’s preeminent shopping street. (1. northeast of Mitte. Alexanderplatz.). At the eastern end of Unter den Linden. Going public: U-Bahn. and Strassenbahn Berlin’s excellent public-transportation system makes getting around fast. U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines converge at Friedrichstrasse train station. bus. Prenzlauer Berg. was the center of activity in the Soviet era. at 368 m. The system consists of the U-Bahn (underground train). Luckily.120 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany concerts. ferries on the lakes. Except to check out the ongoing gentrification. The Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). You can also buy . www. safe. you find the marvelous Museumsinsel (Museum Island). Transportation basics You can buy your ticket at any U-Bahn station (at windows or machines that have English translations) or from a bus driver. is now the hippest neighborhood in eastern Berlin and a favored spot for young Berliners to live. convenient. Berlin’s Transport Authority (% 030/19449 24hour information and relatively inexpensive. Friedrichstrasse. is a charming area restored to look as it did (with some contemporary touches) in Berlin’s medieval and baroque eras. see the inside back cover of this book. The following sections describe the various options you have for getting from place to place. This well-integrated public-transport system is run by BVG. which intersects Unter den Linden. one of the highest structures in Europe. Luxury boutiques and department stores crowd the street. and a few Strassenbahnen (streetcars) that still operate in eastern Berlin only. S-Bahn.bvg. Gay and lesbian visitors may want to explore Prenzlauer Berg’s burgeoning gay cafe and club scene. just south of Alexanderplatz along the Spree River.207 ft. It’s now being completely redone. short-term travelers will find little of interest. buses. and even dedicated walkers won’t be able to cover it entirely on foot. Berlin has a comprehensive public transportation system. Getting Around Berlin Berlin is a huge city. For a map of Berlin’s U-Bahn and S-Bahn.

20€ ($1. ߜ The 7-Tage-Karte (7-day ticket) costs 25€ ($32) for zones A and B.50). B. they intersect at Bahnhof Zoo. If yours hasn’t been validated. You must validate your ticket by sticking it into one of the validation boxes on all U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms or inside buses and streetcars.m.10€ ($2.or S-Bahn stops or 6 stops on a bus or streetcar). B. Zone C extends far beyond the city’s borders. In each car. The card is good for all public transportation in central Berlin (zones A. The entire transportation system runs on an honor system — you won’t find turnstiles or ticket collectors.25) for zones A and B. When purchasing tickets for public transportation. consider the Berlin Welcome Card. S-Bahn (elevated train) The venerable elevated train system in Berlin is called the S-Bahn. ߜ If you’re in Berlin for two days. which are announced. U-Bahn (underground train) The subway in Berlin is called the U-Bahn. you also have several money-saving options. the office is open daily from 6 a.m. Nine lines crisscross the city in all directions and extend to the far reaches of Brandenburg. you can get a Kurzstrecke (short-stretch) ticket for 1. and the routes are clearly marked in all stations and in the trains. The fare is based on three zones (A. Thirteen lines cover most of central Berlin. A regular Normaltarif or Einzelfahrscheine (one-way fare).m. and C). the following day and costs 5. but after midnight only two lines — U9 and U2 — run on a limited schedule. Service is fast and efficient.80€ ($7. all the way to Potsdam. and C) and provides price reductions of up to 50 percent at many tourist attractions in Berlin. Long-term tickets are validated only once. you find a map of the stops. which costs 16€ ($18) for 48 hours or 22€ ($24) for 72 hours. directly outside Zoo Station. before your first trip. One ticket enables you to change from U-Bahn to S-Bahn and to the bus during a two-hour period. All your sightseeing within the Berlin city limits will be in zones A and B.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 121 tickets and passes (and receive a free transportation map) at the BVGPavillion on Hardenbergplatz. each car contains a map of . including the following: ߜ A Tageskarte (day ticket) is good on all forms of transportation from validation until 3 a. Ticket inspectors may suddenly appear to check everyone’s ticket. you’re guilty of Schwarzfahren (black travel) and fined 75€ ($94) on the spot.50). good for two hours in zones A and B is 2. to 10 p. A large U in a blue box identifies each station. For short hops (3 consecutive U.

122 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
the stops, which are announced. A large S in a green circle identifies each station. S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations sometimes overlap, so you can change from one to the other. Service is basically nonexistent after midnight. The S-Bahn is particularly handy if you’re going from Bahnhof Zoo east to the Friedrichstrasse/Unter den Linden area or southwest to Grünewald and the lakes.

Riding atop one of Berlin’s double-decker buses (single-deckers also operate) is a fun way to see the city. A green H (for Haltstelle, or stop) in a yellow circle identifies each stop. Regular service begins about 5 a.m. and ends about midnight. Night buses (designated with an N) leave every half-hour, going west and east, from Bahnhof Zoo and Bahnhof Hackescher Markt (near Alexanderplatz in eastern Berlin). One of the best and cheapest sightseeing routes is on Bus 100, which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and travels through the Tiergarten, passing Bellevue Palace (the Berlin residence of the German president), the Reichstag, and the Victory Column all the way to the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Museum Island, and Alexanderplatz.

Strassenbahn (streetcar)
Streetcars, called Strassenbahnen, run in eastern Berlin only. Because you can get practically everywhere on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you probably won’t be using the streetcar. Ticket prices are the same as for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and buses.

Taking a taxi
Thousands of ivory-colored taxis cruise Berlin’s main streets. Hailing one during the day is easier than at night. The fare starts at 2.50€ ($3.10) and costs 1.55€ ($1.90) per kilometer (1⁄2 mile). For short distances, flag down a taxi and ask for the Winktarif: a special rate (3€/ $3.75) for a short lift. To order a taxi, call % 210-101. Tip taxi drivers by rounding up to the nearest euro.

Driving a car
I don’t recommend renting ein Auto in Berlin. Local drivers tend to be aggressive, and the street system itself can be fiendishly difficult to navigate. The public-transport system gets you everywhere you want at a fraction of the cost. If you’re out very late, you can grab a cab to get back to your hotel. The only time a car may come in useful is when you want to explore the surrounding countryside. The offices for Hertz (Budapester Strasse 37; % 030/262-1053) and Avis (Budapester Strasse 43; % 030/230-9370) are close to Bahnhof Zoo.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


If you drive in town, be aware that the right lanes in inner-city areas are often reserved for buses, taxis, and bicycles only. When turning right, you must give way to any vehicle (including bikes) in that lane. Some right-hand lanes are reserved for buses at stated times and otherwise can be used by cars. Also remember that in Germany, using a mobile phone while driving is against the law. In Berlin and throughout Germany, cars can park only on the right side of the road. In most inner-city areas, you must obtain a parking ticket at one of the street-side ticket machines to display on your dashboard. The police quickly tow cars that violate these laws. If that happens, you can go to any police station to find out where your car is. The whole process costs more than 150€ ($187) — and a great deal of time. Parking garages are more expensive than street parking, but they save you the potential hassle of getting towed.

Staying in Style
Finding a hotel room in Berlin is easy, unless a big trade fair or soccer match is happening in town. Prices generally are lower than in other major European cities. (You can find a good hotel in Berlin for less than 150€/$187 a night.) I do, however, strongly recommend that you reserve your room before you arrive. If you arrive in Berlin without a hotel room, you can go to one of the BERLIN infostores (for locations and opening hours see “Finding Information After You Arrive,” earlier in this chapter). For 3€ ($3.75), the infostore staff will find you a room. You can also book hotels by calling % 030/25-00-25. For locations of the hotels in this chapter, see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining.”

The top hotels
For details on two of the city’s best hotels, Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) and Kempinski Hotel Bristol ($$$$), see Chapter 22.

Arco Hotel
$ Schöneberg
This small, gay-friendly hotel is housed in a four-story turn-of-the-century building on a quiet street near the Ku-Damm. Most of the 21 fairly large rooms have high windows and modern furniture. Private bathrooms, all with showers, are on the small side. One of the nicest features is the airy breakfast room, which looks out on a courtyard garden (you can eat outside in warm weather). The English-speaking staff is friendly and helpful. One potential drawback: no elevator.

124 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining
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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


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126 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
See map p. 124. Geisbergstrasse 30, 10777 Berlin. % 030/218-8065. Fax: 030/21475178. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Ansbacher Strasse and west on Geisbergstrasse). Rates: 65€–97€ ($81–$121) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

$ Charlottenburg
Located on the top floors of a large apartment building, Artemisia is an excellent hotel for women only. The rooms are large, light, and free of froufrou but still have a warm ambience heightened by splashes of color. Ten of the 12 rooms have toilets and small showers. You can save money by renting one of the two rooms that share a toilet and shower. A private roof terrace with wonderful views over Berlin becomes a gathering spot on warm afternoons and evenings. See map p. 124. Brandenburgischestrasse 18, 10707 Berlin. % 030/873-8905. Fax: 030/861-8653. U-Bahn: Blissestrasse (then a 3minute walk northwest on Brandenburgischestrasse). Rates: 89€–115€ ($111–$144) double with bathroom; 79€–89€ ($99–$111) double without bathroom. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Art-Hotel Charlottenburger Hof
$ –$$ Charlottenburg
Located across from the Charlottenburg S-Bahn station, this budget hotel is one of the best and brightest in Berlin. This inexpensive property is unusually well decorated for its price range and offers several amenities, such as in-room safes, hair dryers, and laundry facilities. Primary colors of blue, yellow, and red (plus white) brighten some of the 45 contemporary-style rooms, a few of which have balconies. Rooms and bathrooms, which have showers, are fairly small. All guest rooms are equipped with computers that provide free Internet access. The breakfast buffet costs an additional 8€ ($ 10). See map p. 124. Stuttgarter Platz 14, 10627 Berlin. % 030/329-070. Fax: 030/332-3723. S-Bahn: Charlottenburg (the hotel is north of the station). Rates: 65€–125€ ($81–$156) double. AE, MC, V.

Baxpax Downtown Hostel Hotel
$ –$$ Mitte
If you’re looking for a really inexpensive place to stay in Berlin, check out this clean, friendly hostel/hotel in Mitte. You can stay in an eight-bed dorm room, a more private double room with a shower and toilet, or a small studio with a bathroom. Nothing fancy or frilly here: The rooms have been simply but nicely designed and there’s a cafe and a roof terrace for relaxing and meeting fellow backpackers and explorers. Baxpax has two other hostels in eastern Berlin in addition to this one: Baxpax Kreuzberg Hostel Berlin, Skalitzer Strasse 104 (% 030/6951-8322; S-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor),



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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin




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128 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
and Mitte’s Backpacker Hostel Berlin, Chauseestrasse 102 (% 030/28390935; U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). See map p. 127. Ziegelstrasse 28, 10117 Berlin. % 030/2787-4880. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse (then a 5-minute walk south on Tucholsky Strasse and west on Ziegelstrasse). Rates: 15€–18€ ($19–$22) dorm bed without bathroom; 59€ ($74) double room with shower and toilet; 75–119€ ($94–$149) studio/apartment with bathroom. MC, V.

Bleibtreu Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
If you’re looking for chic, central, contemporary digs near the Ku-Damm, this 60-room boutique hotel is the place for you. The rooms aren’t particularly large but are artfully designed and furnished. The furniture coverings are hypoallergenic, and no chemicals of any kind are used for cleaning. The small, stylish bathrooms have sinks of carved stone. Other features include remote-control-operated lights, wireless phones, fax machines in every suite, and electric awnings over street-facing windows. The hotel has a Wellness Center where you can take a pore-cleansing sauna. Restaurant 31, near the small lobby, lays out a healthy breakfast buffet (an extra 15€/$ 19); the bar is lively at night. See map p. 124. Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Berlin. % 030/884-740. Fax: 030/8847-4444. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). Rates: 132€–232€ ($165–$240) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Grand Hyatt Berlin
$$$$ Tiergarten
The Grand Hyatt Berlin, right smack-dab in the center of all the action in the new Potsdamer Platz area, is one of the coolest places to stay, and one of the more expensive. This big hotel, built in 1998 with 342 rooms, is sleek and glamorous throughout. Rooms are large and have beautiful wood finishes and wonderful bathrooms set up with Japanese-style soaking tubs. Restaurants include Vox, for Eurasian cuisine and sushi; Tizian, for international classics; and Bistro Dietrich, for casual cafe-style food. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. 124. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, 10785 Berlin. % 030/2553-1234. Fax: 030/2553-1235. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west to Marlene-Dietrich-Platz). Rates: 240€–430€ ($300–$537) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Alsterhof Berlin
$ –$$$$ Wilmersdorf
Location — just a few minutes walk from Bahnhof Zoo and the Ku-Damm — is this hotel’s greatest asset. If you’re in Berlin on business and need a reasonably priced full-service hotel in a central location, this place fills the bill. The 195 rooms are comfortable and quiet, and have plenty of extra

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


amenities (trouser press, safe, minibar, hair dryer), although they aren’t particularly stylish. You find a pool and sauna on the sixth floor. The breakfast buffet costs 16€ ($20). See map p. 124. Augsburger Strasse 5, 10789 Berlin. % 030/212-420. Fax: 030/2183949. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east across Joachimstaler Platz and east on Augsburger Strasse). Rates: 85€–200 ($108–$250) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Brandenburger Hof
$$$$ Charlottenburg
The beautifully appointed, 86-room Hotel Brandenburger Hof offers superior service, an on-site spa, and one of the top restaurants in Berlin. Centrally located in western Berlin, this Relais & Châteaux hotel is close to the Ku-Damm and the Tiergarten. The guest rooms are unusually large for Berlin and furnished in an elegant Bauhaus style that is rarely encountered in other hotels. Bathrooms have wood and granite finishes. You can enjoy the sumptuous breakfast buffet, included in the price of the room, in a glass-walled conservatory built around a Japanese garden. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Die Quadriga (named for the four-horse chariot atop the Brandenburg Gate), earned a Michelin star (see “Dining Out,” later in this chapter). See map p. 124. Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Berlin. % 030/214-050. Fax: 030/21405100. U-Bahn: Kurfurstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east on Augsburger Strasse and south on Rankestrasse to Eislebener Strasse). Rates: 245€–295€ ($306–$369) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Domus
$$ –$$$ Wilmersdorf
Set in an unusually pretty section of Wilmersdorf, down the street from St. Ludwig’s Church and within walking distance of the Ku-Damm, this modern 73-room hotel has a calm, appealing simplicity. The spacious rooms are quiet (thanks to soundproof windows) and tastefully decorated with highquality contemporary furniture (lots of light-colored wood). Rooms face the inner courtyard or the street. The bathrooms are unusually large and have either a shower or a tub. Breakfast is served in a lovely dining room. Free high-speed Internet service is a nice bonus. See map on p. 124. Uhlandstrasse 49, 10719 Berlin. % 030/880-3440. Fax: 030/88034444. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west on Hohenzollerndamm and north on Uhlandstrasse). Rates: 115€–150€ ($144–$187) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Pension Niebuhr
$ Charlottenburg
This pleasant, gay-friendly pension in Charlottenburg is one of the best deals in Berlin. The 12 rooms, all on the second floor of a turn-of-the-century apartment building (no elevator), have a fresh, modest flair. The furnishings and

130 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
color schemes are bright and cheerful. Three street-facing rooms have balconies; the rooms facing the courtyard (Hinterhof) can be a bit dark, but they’re very quiet. One bonus: Breakfast (5€/$ 6.25) is brought up to your room. See map p. 124. Niebuhrstrasse 74, 10629 Berlin. % 030/324-9595. Fax: 030/881-4707. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Niebuhrstrasse). Rates: 53€ ($66) double without bathroom; 72€ ($90) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

Pension Nürnberger Eck
$ Charlottenburg
If you’re seeking an atmospheric old-fashioned pension, try this one on the second floor of a building near the Europa Center, a shopping and entertainment complex. High-ceilinged rooms with heavy doors open off a long, dark hallway. Although the eight rooms are stylistically something of a mishmash, with patterned wallpaper, Oriental rugs, and big pieces of furniture, the pension does convey an Old Berlin charm. The bathrooms are a decent size, and the breakfast room is pleasant. See map p. 124. Nürnberger Strasse 24a, 10789 Berlin. % 030/235-1780. Fax: 030/2351-7899. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Tauentzienstrasse and south on Nürnberger Strasse). Rates: 70€–92€ ($87–$115) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Savoy Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
The quietly charming Savoy, which opened in 1930, has played host to more than a few celebrities through the years. You can’t beat the location, just a skip from the Ku-Damm, or the unobtrusively efficient service. The 125 rooms provide spacious and comfortable accommodations, with large bathrooms, but don’t look for any modern design touches here; the hotel is completely up-to-date with wireless and cable networks, but the décor remains resolutely old-fashioned. There’s a good restaurant, Weinrot, serving international and regional dishes, and if your room rate includes the breakfast buffet, you’re in for a treat. Nonsmokers may find the lingering cigar fumes from the Times Bar, just off the lobby, bothersome. See map p. 124. Fasanenstrasse 9–10, 10623 Berlin. % 800-223-5652 in the U.S. or 030/311-030. Fax: 030/3110-3666. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse and north on Fasanenstrasse). Rates: 152€–295€ ($190–$369) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Runner-up hotels
Ambassador Berlin
$$ Schöneberg A comfortable, old-fashioned “retro” look characterizes this hotel located near the huge Kaufhaus des Westens department store. See map p. 124.

U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. and Canada. ߜ Westin Grand Friedrichstrasse 158–164. % 030/254-780. Fax: 030/2190-2380.heckershotel. See map but the place is conveniently located and impeccably maintained. 124. 10711 Berlin. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 131 Bayreutherstrasse 42–43. See map p. See map clean and comfortable. www. Grolmanstrasse 35. See map p. Potsdamer Platz 3. . 10785 Berlin. Leibnizstrasse 59. here are a few more $$$$ suggestions: ߜ Berlin 10623 Berlin. Fax: 030/889-0260.hilton. 124. Hecker’s Hotel $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg The streamlined rooms in this small. Fax: 030/777-5555. www. 124. 10629 Berlin. 127. Fax: 030/2023-4269. 10117 Berlin. The big splurge If you’re looking for top-of-the-line luxury. www. % 800-937-8461 in the U. atmospheric hotel is on the fourth floor of an Art Nouveau apartment house. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz.kudamm101. some vivid colors. 127. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. 124. ߜ Grand Hotel Esplanade. or 030/20270. % 030/219-020. See map p. www. Hotel Art Nouveau $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg This small. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. See map p. 124. Fax: 030/ 265-1171. Fax: 030/2027-3362. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. See map U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. www. % 030/2177-07476.esplanade. ߜ Ritz-Carlton. 10719 Berlin. Fax: 030/ Schaperstrasse 36.S. www. Hotel Wilmersdorf $ Wilmersdorf This no-fuss pension is large. trendy hotel may look a bit sterile to some. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. Fax: 030/217-7077. Kurfürstendamm 101. 124. See map p. % 030/327-7440. or 030/33-77-77. sorat-hotels. and Canada. Fax: 030/327-7440. or 030/20230. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse. % 030/520-0550. 10787 Berlin. % 800-241-3333 in the U. % 800-445-8667 in the U. Mohrenstrasse 30.ritz-carlton. www. % 030/88900. and offers a buffet breakfast overlooking the rooftops of Berlin. Lützowufer 10785 Berlin. Ku’Damm 101 $$ Wilmersdorf A minimalist aesthetic.hotelartnouveau.. 10117 Berlin. and a bit of “I’m so cool” attitude characterize this interesting new hotel.S.

Game like venison. Dining Out Berlin offers every kind of international cuisine. Typical Berlin dishes include grilled or pickled herring with onions. pickled or roast pork (Schweinefleisch) or pork knuckles (Eisbein) with red cabbage and dumplings. and bacon. And speaking of cafes: Don’t forget that in Germany.132 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Pension München $ Wilmersdorf You find simple. For a few recommended brewpubs. See map p. duck. meatballs (Buletten) with boiled potatoes. www. % 030/857-9120. Grabbing a wurst or eating at the stand-up counters of the fast-food snack shops (look for signs that read IMBISS or SCHNELL-IMBISS) is a good way to save time and money. afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is a time-honored tradition. Scattered all around town are vendors selling Berlin’s classic fast-food snacks: Currywurst (sausage with a glob of “curry” sauce) or fried bratwurst. for example. and lighter dishes) at one of Berlin’s plentiful cafes. For locations of the restaurants in this chapter.hotel-pension-muenchenin-berlin. round the total up to 7€ and add another euro or two if the service was good. see Chapter 12. but rounding out the total bill with an extra amount as a gratuity is standard practice. which uses the old standbys as a starting point but dolls them up with unusual ingredients and international modern décor. If the bill is 6. and pea soup (Erbsensuppe). and wild boar appears seasonally. and plenty of other nice touches in this third-floor pension. carp and trout often are available.30€. Restaurant and cafe bills include the service charge and value-added tax (MWST). places to enjoy a casual meal with a freshly drawn beer. but the local culinary tradition is fairly basic and very filling. fried potatoes. . You can always get an inexpensive meal (soup. 124. U-Bahn: Günzelstrasse. Fax: 030/8579-1222. I list some good cafe choices at the end of this chapter. Güntzelstrasse 62. 10717 Berlin. see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining” earlier in this chapter. A plate with various cold meats is called a Schlachteplatte (schlock-tuh-plaht-tuh). original artwork. Fancier restaurants often serve what’s called neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). sandwiches.

Fasanenstrasse 81A. beef. Bamburger Reiter is small and rustic. so be ready to wait (while savoring a bottle of good French wine). MC. Open: Tues–Sat 5:30–11:30 p. and may include cream of mushroom soup. The staff is friendly. The fish soup. 124. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Richard-Wagner-Strasse and west on Otto-SuhrAllee).and French-inspired dishes. and plenty of antiques. Open: Tues–Sun 6–11:30 p. cooked in a broth of fish and shellfish that’s whipped into a foam. poultry. roast quail. and cafe rolled into one. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). duck with cassis sauce. and outdoor seating is available in good weather. fish. For dessert. Reservations required..m. and couscous. Reservations recommended. Art is tucked beneath the S-Bahn track at Fasanenstrasse. (winter Sat–Sun 12:30 p.) Bamberger Reiter $$$$ Schöneberg AUSTRIAN Housed in a century-old wine tavern at the corner of Regensburger Strasse and Bamburger Strasse. 124. including fresh fish.–2 a. Dinner choices include homemade pasta. Come to this gay-friendly place for an English breakfast (bacon. lamb. No credit cards. is wonderful.m. DC. AE. For lunch. % 030/313-2625. Sat–Sun 10 a. try a bowl of potato soup with sausage or one of the many salads.m. For many years. The menu changes daily and offers several main courses.m. Every dish is freshly prepared. See map p. or smoked-fish pie. and a vegetarian Maultaschen (stuffed pasta). Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Regensburgerstrasse). marinated boiled beef with chive cream. chicken.–2 a. The menu changes daily according to what’s freshest in the market. % 030/341-1033.m. but the place now serves more Austrian. Main courses: 22€–39€ ($27–$49). bar. with parquet floors. Otto-Suhr-Allee 144. try the pumpernickel mousse. eggs. See map p. this was a temple of neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). The restaurant has a outdoor arbor for summertime dining.–2 a. . See map p. 124. Main courses: 9€–19€ ($11–$23). and beans). Reservations recommended for dinner.m. V. Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets). MC. Regensburgerstrasse 7. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Hardenberg Strasse and south on Fasanenstrasse). % 030/218-4282.m.m. V.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 133 The top restaurants Art $ –$$ Charlottenburg GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A restaurant. flowers. Chez Martial $$ Charlottenburg FRENCH Top-quality products and good cooking have helped establish Chez Martial as one of Berlin’s most popular French restaurants.

onions. Open: Mon–Fri 7–11 p. Mommsenstrasse 9. Reservations recommended. MC. For an appetizer. Closed July 17–Aug 20. In Hotel Brandenburger Hof. Main courses: 13€–19€ ($16–$23). Open: Mon–Sat 5 p. See map p. % 030/214-050. such as broccoli soufflé. offers a truly memorable dining experience. Eislebener Strasse 14. and a tasty potato soup with shrimp and bacon. and the good pizzas are kid-pleasing. the pedestrian street along the river). V. is the Ephraim-Palais. pizzas 4.m. DC. DC. Spreeufer 2. You’ll want a table outside if the weather is fine. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). AE. a richly ornamented 1765 mansion. Other starters include Beetenbartsch. to midnight. Choices include salmon with white-wine sauce. Part of the building is a museum. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 2-minute walk south on Eislebener Strasse). because that’s what this place does best. You also find vegetarian dishes. The restaurant also has a well-stocked wine cellar. Open: Daily 11 a. grilled trout. MC. which celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2005. Pasta is made fresh daily.m. 127. a delicious red-beet soup with beef strips and sour cream. La Riva $$ Mitte ITALIAN/SEAFOOD One of the prettiest buildings in the restored Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). The wonderful wine list includes several wines available by the half-bottle or by the carafe. smoked Pomeranian goose. % 030/883-2676. but you need to reserve well in advance because the elegant restaurant seats only 28 diners. Main courses are something of an adventure: stewed pickled beef with green dumplings and stewed cabbage. Marjellchen $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg EAST PRUSSIAN Old East Prussian recipes prepared by the owner’s grandmother inspired the dishes that are served at this popular restaurant. fixed-price menu 55€–110€ ($69–$137). swordfish with fresh tomatoes. 1 star means very good) in the beautiful Brandenburger Hof Hotel. and basil. V. AE. MC.m. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). See map p. smoked ham in cream sauce. or fried chicken legs.50€–9. % 030/242-5183. Reservations recommended.50€ ($6–$12). while another section contains this Italian-influenced restaurant. the one-star Michelin restaurant (in Michelin’s guides. just south of Alexanderplatz. to midnight. Main courses: 35€ ($44). or roast of elk with chanterelle mushrooms. 124. Dishes are classically French and seasonally fresh. which sits right next to the Spree River. AE. and grilled or baked crayfish. V. . See map p. And you’ll probably want to order fish. Reservations required.134 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Die Quadriga $$$$ Wilmersdorf FRENCH Die Quadriga. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 5minute walk southwest on Mühlendamm to Spreeufer. try homemade aspic. Everything is of the finest quality. pork kidneys in sweet-andsour cream sauce. 124.

Main courses: 16€–28€ ($20–$35). Open: Daily 11:30 a. V. % 030/313-8052. or grilled foie gras. across from the giant Berlin cathedral and beneath the Radisson SAS Hotel (of which it’s now a part). Wiener Schnitzel. Spreepromenade beside Liebknecht Bridge. Reservations recommended. plus noodle soups. 127. Diners mark what they want on the menu (an English menu is available) and hand it to the server. is nothing fancy. Open: Daily noon to 11 p. Paris Bar $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg FRENCH/AUSTRIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Since the end of WWII. with wooden tables and benches. and new potatoes. between Savignyplatz and the Memorial Church. You may find asparagus with hollandaise sauce. and a bit of French attitude. Main courses: 10€–25€ ($13–$31). U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). 127. % 030/23828-3464. AE. Main courses change often. this new Japanese-inspired noodle house offers a good. The dining room has long communal tables. No credit cards. In the past couple of years. saddle of veal with lemon butter. Reservations recommended. sashimi. 124. The restaurant’s interior. and other specialties. Reservations recommended. the restaurant has expanded its classic French bistro menu to include more upscale Austrian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. by its blood-colored awning and red-sandstone facade. directly across from the Gendarmenmarkt. See map p. See map p. inexpensive lunch.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Noodle $ –$$ Mitte JAPANESE/ASIAN 135 Located right beside the Spree River. spare. with marble. fresh fish. You can get a good plate of spaghetti or a good . has been a Berlin institution. the Paris Bar. ham. Restaurant Borchardt $$ –$$$ Mitte FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL You can recognize Borchardt. and satays (skewers with meat or fish). Inside. V. Französische Strasse 47. Main courses: 7€–13€ ($9–$16).m. gilding. Kantstrasse 152. reasonably priced selection of sushi. See map p. Toto $ –$$ Charlottenburg ITALIAN Toto is a good place to sit outside on a warm Berlin afternoon and have a good. and elegant. The best bet for lunch is one of the fixed-price specials.m. to midnight. lunch specials 14€ ($17). and suckling pig. AE. risotto with porcini mushrooms. glazed duck breast. or you can dine outside in nice weather. MC. MC. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 3-minute walk east on Französische Strasse).m. the restaurant is large. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse). Open: Daily noon to 1 a. fried noodles. % 030/2038-87110. Menu offerings typically include baked tuna fish with Asian vegetables.

available every Tuesday and Friday (market days). Jägerstrasse 54–55. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). has earned a Michelin star for its refined cooking. Reservations required. All kinds of meat dishes and some good seafood (calamari and scampi grilled or cooked with radicchio and rosemary in white-wine sauce) round out the menu. Vau is a very dress-up kind of place for a superfancy lunch or dinner with impeccable service. Some of the pastas are made on the premises. to midnight. No credit cards. and various fish choices. 127. which opened near the Gendarmenmarkt in early 1997. not remarkable. Note: The restaurant can be a bit smoky. The pizzas are good.m. includes grilled salmon with butter and lemon and grilled crayfish cooked in olive oil. which happens to be Berlin’s oldest restaurant. Trattoria da Muntagnola $ –$$ Wilmersdorf ITALIAN This popular Italian place is casually rustic. Open: Daily noon to 2 a. Fuggerstrasse 27. rather narrow room with an arched ceiling. 124. DC. MC. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25).m. See map p. V. % 030/202-9730. Open: Daily 6 p. fixed-price dinner 80€–100€ ($100–$125). See map p. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte (then a 5minute walk east across Gendarmenmarkt). very modern. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25).m. too. everything is very precise. roast duck breast with herbs and carrots. particularly the Pizza della Mamma with bacon and Parma ham. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. DC. V. with braids of garlic hanging from the beamed ceiling. dating from 1525. AE. north on Luther Strasse. the menu has several items that kids generally like. In this long. See map p. classic Wiener Schnitzel. and very beautiful. AE. The casual atmosphere makes Toto a good place to bring kids. The menu is huge and the cooking is reliable. % 030/312-5449. MC. Vau $$$$ Mitte INTERNATIONAL This sleek and unabashedly upscale gastronomic showcase. % 030/211-6642. and west on Fuggerstrasse). The restaurant occupies two floors of a much-restored . U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Motzstrasse. however. The bean soup is filling. The lasagna is worth trying. Fresh fish. Main courses: 28€–38€ ($35–$47). but I still recommend this place. The menu includes a nice selection of Italian wines and aperitifs.136 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany salad.m. Bleibtreustrasse 55. and 7–11:30 p. The menu choices are deftly prepared and can be surprisingly unfussy: venison with artichokes and mushrooms. Zur Letzten Instanz $ –$$ Mitte BERLINER The former East Berlin now has several trendy new restaurants. 124. Reservations recommended.

124. has a pastry and candy shop at street level. Vegetarian offerings include vegetable lasagna and roasted broccoli with cheese served on pasta. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. Sun 11:30 a. and additions (fried egg.m. Starbucks is now a presence in Berlin. to 7 p. is particularly rich in cafes.75–$11).75–$13). or mushrooms). apple. . or onion fillings. The cafes likewise are bars. bacon. onions.. so you also can get a beer or a glass of wine. Beneath the arches of Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station (SBahnbogen 30). soups. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 3-minute walk south on Waisenstrasse). AE. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 1 a.m. foamy Bier von Fass (beer from the tap). Zur Nolle was a busy working-class beer hall beneath the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. 127. The best cafes Berlin is a city filled with cafes.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 137 baroque building in the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). spices.m. too. % 030/885-7480. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse). 127. upstairs.m. For old time’s sake. with choice locations on Unter den Linden near the Brandenburg Gate and on the Ku-Damm at Wittenbergplatz. to midnight. ߜ Café/Bistro Leysieffer.–6 p. These are places to go for breakfast. as a sign of post-reunification nostalgia for a bit of Old Berlin. This place is a good one for having an elegant breakfast or light lunch.m. between Savignyplatz and the Ku-Damm. meatballs. and whipped cream. is trendy. and vegetarian salads. V. convivial. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). Main courses include Old Berlin staples like grilled herring. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. or the roast bratwurst. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). For dessert. DC. Meals range from 7€ to 9€ ($8. Bleibtreustrasse (U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Main courses: 7€–10€ ($8. ߜ Café Aedes. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41 (see map p. Wash everything down with a cold. and braised lamb knuckles with green beans and dumplings. which come with a variety of sauces. The place closed in 1968 (GDR years) but reopened in 1993.m. MC. The menu is unpretentious and the portions hearty. try the chocolate-covered pancakes filled with blueberries. I recommend the homemade Bulette (meatballs). The menu usually has dishes like tortellini with cheese sauce. AE. Waisenstrasse 14–16. % 030/ 285-8278. See map p. and very hip. you find an old-fashioned cafe with a balcony overlooking the busy Ku-Damm. Meals range from 10€ to 16€ ($13–$20). Sun noon to 11 p. Kurfürstendamm 218 (see map p.m. 127. or a light meal or snack. yogurt. DC. a cup of coffee and a piece of Kuchen (cake). % 030/242-5528. % 030/208-2655. vanilla ice cream. See map p. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 1-minute walk east along the street below the tracks). V. and the menu is as traditional and atmospheric as can be.m. to midnight. Zur Nolle $ Mitte GERMAN A hundred years ago. Try the jacket potatoes with herring. MC.

Fasanenstrasse 23 (see map p. . you find sushi.75). On the menu. The cafe is open daily from 9:30 a. % 030/ 281-2095. soups. is one of the best places to see the “new” eastern Berlin in all its up-to-the-nanosecond trendiness. % 030/882-5414.m. and vegetarian curries.m. 127. salads. and an all-day breakfast.m. narrow room with original 1920s wall paintings and modern furniture. The menu includes pastas. The cafe is open Monday to Friday from 10 a. The cafe is housed in a long. 124.. U-Bahn: Hohenzollernplatz). to 5 a. tall.m.m. miso soup with noodles. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. salads.m. occupies two modern-looking rooms in a 19th-century villa 1 block south of the Ku-Damm. to 4 a.138 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ߜ Café Silberstein. Oranienburger Strasse 27 (see map p. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). to 1 a. A meal costs around 7€ ($8. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($9– $22). ߜ Cafe Wintergarten in Literaturhaus Berlin.

thanks to rebuilding in Potsdamer Platz and portions of eastern Berlin. Remember: Nearly all Berlin museums are closed Mondays throughout the year. except where otherwise indicated. For locations. and 31. although you also find picturesque parks and lakes. They’re also closed January 1. The places described in this section are my roster of the most important Berlin attractions. this city has more new buildings than any other city in the world. December 24. see the “TiergartenArea Attractions. and historic architecture.” and “Berlin-Mitte Attractions” maps in this chapter. . and at some museums children under 16 are admitted free of charge. 25.” “Charlottenburg Attractions. kids younger than 6 generally get in for free. famous avenues and riverside promenades. The city is particularly rich in museums. Note: The ages for children’s tickets always are 6 to 14. and the Tuesday after Easter. Plus.Chapter 12 Exploring Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Berlin’s top attractions ᮣ Choosing a tour that’s right for you ᮣ Finding the hot shopping spots ᮣ Discovering Berlin’s performing arts and nightlife ᮣ Taking a side trip to Potsdam and the palace of Sanssouci erlin overflows with sightseeing options and diversions. B Sightseeing in Berlin Where do you begin? Do you want to spend all your time in Berlin’s fabulous museums? Saunter and shop your way down famous avenues like Unter den Linden or the Ku-Damm? See historic buildings like the Reichstag? Check out the “new” Berlin at Potsdamer Platz? You have to make some decisions because the possibilities for sightseeing in Berlin are almost endless.

a restored historic neighborhood. Saving money with a museum pass SchauLUST Museen Berlin is a money-saving three-day museum pass that gets you into 70 top Berlin museums and collections for 15€ ($19) adults. including the museums on Museum Island in . the Pergamon Museum (with the giant Pergamon altar and Middle Eastern antiquities). “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z.50€ ($9. just a few S-Bahn stops from central Berlin.140 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Touring by neighborhood You can save a lot of time by clustering your museum and other sightseeing visits geographically. see Chapter 11). is a group of buildings known as the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). a baroque square. the adjoining Kunstgewerbe (with applied and decorative arts). Unter den Linden. a grand boulevard. On the eastern edge of the Tiergarten. The Kulturforum area is within walking distance of Potsdamer Platz. smb. ߜ Dahlem: This leafy suburb. the new Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). you can also visit the new DDR Museum Berlin. and the Neue Nationalgalerie (with 20thcentury art). and the newly reopened Bode Museum (German and Italian sculpture and the Museum of Byzantine Art). ߜ Tiergarten: In or near the Tiergarten. the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (with contemporary art).spk-berlin. which now contains the Ägyptisches Museum (with the famous bust of Nefertiti). Charlottenburg Palace also has museums. They include the Altes Museum. where you find the Filmmuseum Berlin. you find the BauhausArchiv. A day ticket to visit all four museums on Museum Island costs 10€ ($13). 7. and the Reichstag (House of Parliament). Gendarmenmarkt. the Alte Nationalgalerie (with 19th-century art).” You can purchase the SchauLUST museum pass at any of the BERLIN infostores (for addresses. The pass gains you admittance into nearly all the museums described in the next section. and histosric buildings in the palace gardens. home to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery).50) seniors and children.50). In this same vicinity. is home to the fascinating Ethnologisches Museum with rich collections of North American Indian art and artifacts and several other museums concerned with world cultures. the newest area of Berlin. which you can visit before or after a guided palace tour. Berlin’s great city and the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). ߜ Museum Island (Museumsinsel): Museum Island in eastern Berlin has four of the city’s oldest museums. the Brandenburg Gate. The main museum areas in Berlin are as follows: ߜ Charlottenburg: Across from Charlottenburg Palace are two museums worth visiting: the Museum Berggruen (with Picassos). close to Potsdamer Platz. All the state museums operated by Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (www. and the Bröhan Museum (with Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture). A day ticket to visit all the Dahlem museums costs 6€ ($7.

Other collection highlights include the small. pottery.smb. and Cézanne.m. 4€ ($5) children. dating from around 1340 B. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.–6 p. Children 16 and under are always admitted free of charge. most of the concrete barrier that divided this city into two political entities had been razed. expressive head of Queen Tiy and the world-famous head of a priest in green stone. By 1990. .Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 141 Berlin Mitte.). Give yourself at least an hour just for the highlights of this rich collection. pronounced mao-er) are left. See map p. you’ll find enough here to make you linger for at least an hour. but the fragments that remain are grimly essential pieces of Berlin’s tumultuous history. (Thurs until 10 p. 147. in the Kulturforum. One of the highlights here is the unique portraits of Caesar and Cleopatra.) Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) Museum Island.m. www. Roman. free Thurs 2–6 p.m. Berlin Wall Mitte The wall that separated Berlin and Germany from 1961 to 1989 is no more. Open: Daily 10 a. and at Charlottenburg Palace. four hours before closing. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). is found on the first floor. Only two portions of the wall (Mauer in German. Am Lustgarten. when it was moved to the second floor of the beautifully restored Altes Museum on Museum Island in eastern Berlin. If you’re interested in Egyptian antiquities. including works by van Gogh. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. The greatest treasure of the Egyptian Museum is the famous and fabulous bust of Queen Nefertiti. Renoir.C.m. and objects of gold and silver.m. Berlin-Mitte’s famous collection of Egyptian antiquities was housed in western Berlin until 2005. % 030/2090-5801. which looks like a Corinthian temple and contains a collection of 19th-century painting and sculpture. and Etruscan classical antiquities. sits behind the Altes Museum on Museumsinsel. A superlative collection of Greek. % 030/266-3660. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). (Thurs until 10 p. free Thurs 6–10 p. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Altes Museum (Egyptian Museum and Collection of Classical Antiquities) Museum Island. See map p. You’ll need at least two hours to cover the basics. the free audio tour will help you navigate. Mitte Museum Island. A free audio tour in English is available. Manet. Monet. are open free to the public on Thursdays. including sculpture.–6 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Mitte The Alte Nationalgalerie. 147.m. 4€ ($5) children.m. Bodestrasse 1–3.

museum.142 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The East Side Gallery is a half-mile-long section on Mühlenstrasse on the banks of the Spree River in the former East Berlin. a fourhorse copper chariot drawn by the goddess Victoria.m.m. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt (then a 5-minute walk west along the S-Bahn tracks to the Monbijou bridge which leads to the museum). www. East Side Gallery: Mühlenstrasse along the Spree River. free Thurs 2–6 p.–6 p. you saw this historic monument. Bode-Museum (Sculpture Collection. a chapel of reconciliation.m. 147. French. The museum also contains galleries with late-antique and Byzantine works and a major coin collection. . In the Room of Silence (open daily 11 a. Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer: between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. (Thurs until 10 p. A plaque reads: “In memory of the division of the city from 13 August 1961 to 9 November 1989. bronze) from the Gothic to the neoclassical periods. Museum of Byzantine Art) Museumsinsel. and Italian sculpture (marble. See map p. wood. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.–6 p. See map p.smb.m.). and a documentation center with photographs and a history of the wall. in every news clip. the gate is crowned by the famous Quadriga. Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) Mitte If you watched the televised fall of the Communist German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1989. An international group of artists painted murals on this section in 1990. The free audio guide will help you navigate your way through the galleries. one of Berlin’s most potent symbols. The revolutionary events of 1848 and 1918. Monbijoubrücke. U-/S-Bahn: Warschauer Strasse. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse.m. known as the Gedenkstätte und Dokumentationszentrum Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial and Documentation Center) lies between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse. 147. % 030/266-3666. 4€ ($5) children. give yourself at least a full hour just to graze the highlights. built into one of the guardhouses. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. hundreds of thousands of East Germans walked freely through the gate into West Berlin for the first time since 1961. Mitte Closed in 1999 for a complete refurbishment.” This place is the only one in Berlin where you still can see a complete border area. The mirrorlike stainless steel surfaces of the memorial have slits through which visitors can peer. saw the gate used as a symbolic gathering place.). such as those in 1989. Here you’ll find a rich collection of German. the newly modernized BodeMuseum anchoring the north end of Museum Island reopened its doors in October 2006. The memorial consists of two walls that include fragments of the original wall (much of which was bulldozed away or carried off by souvenir hunters). visitors still gather to meditate and reflect on Germany’s past. Dutch. A neoclassical triumphal arch completed in 1791. The other remaining section of the wall.m. When the wall came down.

str. a llee Hofjägera w nd öferKlingelh str. hö S S Sc ANHALTER Kleis tstr. str. fürs . Str h il Sc Uhlandstr. U S U Bauhaus–Archiv Museum hauser Str. Po ts U UHLANDSTR. steg BELLEVUE St Kongresshalle/ brücke Lüne b u r g e r S e e Haus der Kulturen Reichstag p r der Welt HANSAS Platz der 16 MarschallRepublik brücke VIERTEL Schloss WullenweberLutherD u l l e r s A l l ee Al Scheidemannstr. Garten 1 Brandenburger Tor 15 Filmmuseum Berlin 12 Siemens. er Pot sda m Sony PotsCenter damer Leipziger 12 14Platz Platz Ebertstr. Budap e ster . nst r. str llerSchi The Story of Berlin 2 PLATZ Tiergarten 8 Goethe.Gegenwart 17 CHARDAGNERNERATZ Z Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche 5 Ot toKäthe-Kollwitz-Museum 4 Suh rKunstgewerbemuseum 9 All ee Kurfürstendamm (Ku-Damm) 3 Neue Nationalgalerie 11 DEUTSCHE str. Kleiner Tiergarten Alt-Mo abit 0 1/4 mi N Luisenstr. Strasse des Ba st r. e See Len né tungsEntlas TECHNISCHE ane Fas Krumme rstr.str.Grünewald steg Röntgen-10 Gemäldegalerie brücke Hamburger Bahnhof DoveMuseum für brücke ARD. eh r ka e rd Ha Str. tzenburger 4 U AUGSBURGER S Garten Tor 15 eg tr. rge a me 1 2 tens tr. n Str es i ZOOLOGISCHER Harden. tr. NOLLENDORF- GLEIS- U tr.str. 0 Gotzkowsky0. tr. Nü rn PLATZ Post office str. U U-Bahn i Information amm i Church rstend Kurfü WITTENBERGr PLATZ de i An r a n KaDeWe U U Leibniz.TURMSTR. te steg s Bellevue brücke t o -F U ona Englischer n Brandenburger h o Pariser J HANSA.25 km brücke str. r 9 10 Leibnizstr. g Stein. Lützowtzowplatz Lütz ows MENDELSSOHNBARTHOLDY-PARK U r ge Einemst da be 143 BAHNHOF Tiergarten-Area Attractions r be ne tr. Juni os se T I E R G A R T E N e rS ter na Neuer lle str. na l UNIVERSITÄT r.S S-Bahn str. 17 s Strasse de Grosser Be llev TIERGARTEN S Stern s 17. Marchbrücke L ch str . S nst 17 lide HAUPTBAHNHOF nva I LEHRTER BAHNHOF LessingWashingtonAltTIERGARTEN brücke Moabit platz Kronprinzenbrücke Moabiter Le Moltkeve Brücke tzo brücke ws Gericketr. Schlüterstr. -derVon dt -Str. Ca Str. ENAUERADENAUERATZ PLATZ Lie Str. rS Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin r m dam 5 Tau i en nt zi rste U KURFÜRSTENü f en r u DAMM str 3 K . Topographie des Terrors Pestal ozzistr. Joachims- ten str. fürs lstr Niebuhr- S Kur . 11 Hey R 7 owufer eic h p ietschufer Lütz berger Ufe Schöne r taler Str. U KURFÜRSTENSTR STR.GARTEN bergplatz 6 für Gestaltung 7 Botanischer linburger Str. 13 Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium 6. uer Le S p r e e ss in g- Paulstr . März M rz S ni Ju . Kantstr S U POTSDAMER PLATZ MarleneDietrichPlatz a em nn S ZOOLOGISCHER U GARTEN 13 str . be St Tiergartenstr. S tro m st r . OPER Bismarck U Potsdamer Platz 14 U ERNSTReichstag 16 REUTER. Juni ue 8 Strasse de Gr alle 17. SAVIGNY- Kantstr. Kur r. platz üle Str. PLATZ ew Platz des re Platz p 18. Do str ve. HansaTo Berlin-Mitte r. ommsen.

open Tues–Sun 10 a. % 030/2090-5555. (Thurs until 10 p. This is a huge collection and to see it in any depth you should give yourself at least two hours. completed in 1821. 4€ ($5) children. or Concert House. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you see the gate to the west).–6 p. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Taubenstrasse). Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) Kulturforum. The centerpiece of the square is Friedrich Schinkel’s beautiful neoclassical Schauspielhaus. including Raphael’s Virgin and Child with the Infant St.). Matthäiskirchplatz. with an emphasis on medieval German and Dutch art and 16th-century Italian and 17th-century Dutch painting. Admission: Free.” later in this chapter). Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. the Gendarmenmarkt had been reduced to a pile of smoldering rubble and remained in ruins until 1977. % 030/22730431. open Tues–Sun noon to 5 p.–6 p. Facing this church like a mirror image on the south side is the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral.m. Looking at the square today. it’s hard to imagine that by the end of World War II (WWII).m. The gallery contains one of the world’s largest collections of Rembrandts. free Thurs 6–10 p.). built for the influx of French Huguenots (Protestants) who settled in Berlin after being forced to flee Catholic France in 1685. The square was named for the Gens d’Armes regiment. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse and Margaretenstrasse). 143.144 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p.m. Surrounding the square is a bevy of chic new restaurants.. See map p.m. John and Bronzino’s Portrait of Ugolino Martelli.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. which had its guardhouse and stables here from 1738 to 1782. for concert information. Tiergarten The Gemäldegalerie houses Berlin’s greatest collection of European painting. Gendarmenmarkt Mitte Twin churches inspired by Rome’s Piazza del Popolo flank this monumentally graceful baroque square — one of the most beautiful architectural ensembles in Berlin. when East Berlin finally began its reconstruction. or theater (now also called the Konzerthaus. See map p.m. half-hour organ concerts Tues and Fri at 12:30 p.m. . On the north side of the square is the Französicher Dom (French Cathedral. % 030/802-8146.). 147. see “Raising the curtain on performing arts and music. 143. Pariser Platz. Several Italian masterpieces are on display.m.

els str. He Knobelsdorff str. platz Ot toBrauhofstr. All ee me ye rNithack- str . do rff str . U S-Bahn U-Bahn N CHARLOTTENBURG LiseM e itner. Post office S U Neue Kantstr. Kaise r- str. Karpfenteich ener Str. h. .Str. Str R ud str. h i e -C harl o Kam ntte Hersc Belvedere mine . BISMARCKSTRASSE dt - U str . Spielhagens tr. str. Su hrStallstr. str. r Str. 0 0 0. str. 100 Christ- str. str dt LIETZENSEEPARK e n s e ze et en Sua rezs tr. St s rp S u f ertstr.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 145 Charlottenburg Attractions s t r.Eosanders tr. W W un Li MESSE NORD/ S ICC . r Str he- Osna Mind brück er Str MIERENDORFFPLATZ U . rsdorfe W i n dscheids t r. Str. Loh- tr. Kaiser. bb Thrasoltzeile Str. helst r. Mausoleum Taur ogge ner S en tr. o lf.Str. 100 isse ll . Zille. Rieh l s tr . Nehringstr.Friedric en leb itz atz W pl Wilme Fritschestr. Schustehrus- Seeling- str. Beh SchustehrusPark Haubachstr.25 km 1/4 mi Kantstr. Ste san ifendst r. platz PLATZ U aim. Gardes-du-Co Luisen. s tr Horstweg un Horstweg SophieCharlottePlatz U SOPHIECHARLOTTEPLATZ Kaiserdamm W Bismarckstr. Wagner.W Bra Te g e l e r Bröhan Museum 3 Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit 2 Schloss Charlottenburg 1 CHARLOTTENBURG Schinkel Pavilion 1 mm Spandauer Da 2 Klausener3 platz WESTEND Ne r. RICHARDGierkeWAGNERstr. WILMERSDORFER STR.str. Schlossbrücke Charlottenburg M SCHLOSSGARTEN ier Caprivier U brücke f er Wintersteinstr. U KAISERDAMM Schiller- str. Mierendorffplatz Sop Keple rstr. Neue Christstr.B e re Sp rüc ke Olbers- . Wulfsheinstr. e Sp re Schloss- Weg Sömmeringstr. itz Goethepark leb Pestalozzi- str.St Fritschestr . Wilmers- Sophie-C harlotte n-Str. F r i e dr i c h - Richard- Gierke- Danckelman n- dorfer r.

documents.–6 p.m. Open: Tues–Fri and Sun 10 the oldest train station in Berlin. Admission: 5€ ($6.–8 p. and the ruined shell was preserved as a symbol of the ravages of war. . You can see everything in about an hour. % 030/397-83439.). Built to commemorate the 1871 establishment of the German Empire. The small modern church beside the Gedächtniskirche is an octagonal hall designed by Egon Eierman in 1961. www. the church later was blasted by a bomb in WWII.75) students and children. Items on display include ceremonial objects. Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) Kreuzberg One of the most talked-about museums in Europe is located in Kreuzberg. 147. Sat 11 a.m. just south of Berlin-Mitte. 2 children). Free organ concerts take place there every Saturday year-round at 6 p. works of Jewish artists.m.25) adults. Invalidenstrasse 50–51. I recommend that you give yourself at least two hours. (Mon until 10 p. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor (then a 5-minute walk east on Gitschiner Strasse and north on Lindenstrasse). 10€ ($13) family ticket (2 adults. Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Emperor William Memorial Church) Charlottenburg One of Berlin’s most famous landmarks. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk northeast on Invalidenstrasse). You follow a chronological pathway occasionally interrupted by deliberately disorienting memorial spaces. The modern art on display dates from the second half of the 20th century and includes everything from Andy Warhol’s now legendary Mao to an audiovisual Joseph Beuys archive. 4€ ($5) children.m. the building is shaped like a stretched-out Star of David and houses Europe’s largest Jewish museum. The building still retains traces of its former use. photos. % 030/2599-3300. portraits of prominent Jewish figures. This museum has plenty to see. You probably won’t want to spend more than a few minutes inside. 2. 143. Designed by American architect Daniel Libeskind..m. and memorabilia. You also find a major collection of works by Cy Twombly.–8 p. historical objects. including the high roof designed for steam engines.146 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) Tiergarten This showcase of contemporary art opened in 1996 in the 19th-century Hamburger Bahnhof. Lindenstrasse 9–14. See map p. Open: Daily 10 a. free Thurs 2–6 p. the Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church) is a ponderous neo-Romanesque structure from the late 19th century.juedisches-museumberlin.50€ ($3. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. Closed on Jewish holy days. See map p.m.m.m. Robert Rauschenberg. and Roy Lichtenstein together with changing exhibitions.m.

Moh MÄRKISCHES str. 147 Berlin-Mitte Attractions er KOCHSTR. Jerusalemer Ge r tr au d elms Wilh en str . . r t s W l l a U U Bel Voss.str. MOHRENSTR. m k str r da e S 13 12 ieb Byzantine Art) 14 s e 17 L . Luisen- str. UNTER DEN a 6 R INSEL Gendarmenmarkt 2 LINDEN Brandenburger U NIKOLAIden Lin Jüdisches Museum 4 SchlossS 1 n Tor de BebelVIERTEL Unter St platz Pariser Platz des platz Mauermuseum Haus am r s a de la u e Platz Strasse 18. Fernsehturm am der Welt r. AlexanderR M Berlin Wall oab platz S l. Rathaus str. ri r ALEXANDERMa BerlinerMoltkeDom 8 St S PLATZ 14 brücke (Sculpture Bode Museum Pergamon ht U ec Fernsehturm m Collection. an st r . str. Platz K S S-Bahn r Str.str hard er p in K Monbijoue . St M üh e eit Br l en Ebertstr. Glinka- da mm Charlotten- Gr un er Universitätsst Friedrichstr. Mau t r. r. Str. rst ue Ma xelSp ring Charlottens A LEHRTER BAHNHOF Mü Alte Nationalgalerie 12 0 1/4 mi nzs 16 15 S tr. i atha 7 S c h if f r e Museum 7 de GeorgenPaul-Löbe-Allee STRASSE rleDDR Bo R . Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Friedrichstr.HAUPTBAHNHOF r. r tr. PLATZ o e m a d m s t U Po ma S . MUSEUMSAlle e th KLOSTERSTR. März r S t r. er-S Wilh ak ob str .25 km s Dirck HACKESCHER xa Lie s en (East Side Gallery) 5 tnd MARKT Washington. r. ns tr. - kn e ch t-S tr. S p Ka Deutsches Historisches 11 str Haus der 10 8 Platz der Museum 9 Reichstag Kulturen LustRepublik garten Dorotheenstr. Berlin Wall . Checkpoint Charlie 3 17. gra b en str. lev SPITTELMARKT Leipziger ues Jak o b HEINRICH. t s HEINE-STR. ied e TaubenUnter den Linden 1 erw urstr Rungestr. Sp an da r ue r. Juni er i r s ch Museumsinsel W erd e arkt Behrenstr. n St Leipziger Post Office e Leipziger POTSDAMER Krausenstr. brücke st n e . sst Mittel9 Alexanderplatz 16 au Scheidemannstr. 3 4 rstr. Museum of Museum n . Str elms e str. m se tr. -KolmarGertrud Str. str. . r. N e u e str. u u r ba e st FRIEDRICH. tr. str. Mark- Str.U . tr. grafen- tr. it (Gedenkstätte Kronprinzenpark platz “Berliner Mauer”) 15 r. Friedrichstr. . MarleneZimmerstr. Ora Altes Museum 11 nie N n b u r g e r S tr . r b Ale t 0 0. p r e Französische 5 e Holocaust Nikolaiviertel 6 Jägerstr. M S (Museum Island) 10 Str. nd U U-Bahn J Schützenstr an Potsdamer te ten Al Platz i Information Zimmerstr. all str U ren. str. W Schwules Museum 12 U N alle K str.U str. tstr rech Alb Tuch olsk yst St fer Kup Oberwall- r. U STADTMITTE KronenMUSEUM L e n né . TIERGARTEN U 2 Be Memorial HAUSVOGTEIllev GendarmenPergamon Museum 13 (under FRANZÖSISCHE s l PLATZ ue l a construction) markt STR. DietrichNiederkirchne Platz Kochstr. erstr.

and Otto Dix. See map on p. % 030/253-7250. newspaper clippings. Max Ernst. Kurfürstendamm Tiergarten The famous boulevard known as the Ku-Damm is western Berlin’s answer to Paris’s Champs-Elysées. 143. and people-watch. The mid-20th-century German artists Max Beckmann. Admission: Free.m.–7 p. built in 1542 for the Prince-Electors (Kurfürsten) to reach their hunting lodge in the Grünewald more easily. www.m. From the start of the 20th century until WWII. 147. Open: Memorial church Mon–Sat 10 a.–4 p. % 030/218-5023. com. Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery) Kulturforum. Friedrichstrasse 43–45. and attempted escape devices (chairlifts. including works by de Chirico. See map p. 4. the museum documents the wall’s history from its construction in 1961 to its fall in 1989 to 1990.50€ ($12) adults. Today’s busy commercial artery began as nothing more than a humble log road.m. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (you are on the Ku-Damm when you exit the station). It’s currently going through a rebuilding phase to spruce itself up and lure people back from eastern Berlin. the most frequently used traffic crossing into East Berlin. Open: Daily 9 a.m. new church daily 9 a. and elegant street in this part of Berlin. designed in 1968 by famed German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. contains a small but impressive collection of international 20th-century painting and sculpture. Kurfürstendamm at Breitscheidplatz. Mark Rothko.75€ ($6) children and students. the Ku-Damm was the most brilliant. Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Wall Museum at Checkpoint Charlie) Kreuzberg If you’re interested in the history of the Berlin Wall. an enormous expanse of glass windows and simple symmetry. Miró. stroll. The photographs. and Frank Stella. this small museum in Kreuzberg is well worth an hour of your time. filled with legendary cafes and renowned for its nightlife. hot-air balloons. and two bitter and brilliant oils by . false passports. 143.148 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map on p. Of special interest are the paintings by early. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse (then a 5-minute walk north on Friedrichstrasse).m. even a minisub) used by East Germans may give you a new take on the meaning of freedom. sit.m.mauermuseum.. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk south on Budapester Strasse). Admission: 9. Dalí. lively.–10 p. Tiergarten The only “old” structure in the aggressively modern Kulturforum complex is the New National Gallery. For years the Ku-Damm hogged all the city’s glamour because dreary East Berlin had nothing to rival it. Located near what once was Checkpoint Charlie. The street still is a wonderful place to shop.

U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (you are on Potsdamer Platz as you exit the station). free Thurs 6–10 p. The Near East Museum in the museum’s south wing contains one of the largest collections anywhere of antiquities from ancient Babylonia. Another showpiece is the ornate two-storied Market Gate of Miletus. free admission Thurs 6–10 p. Sat–Sun 11 a.m. considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and still holding its own today.). (Thurs until 10 p.C. you’ll understand why. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. Part of the enormous Temple of Zeus and Athena. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. and the Tiergarten. the Madison City Suites. Potsdamer Platz was the busiest spot in Berlin.–6 p. restaurants. and entertainment.m. which has two movie theaters and a viewing area from which you can look out over the Philharmonie.m.D.m.. 143. supermodern showcase of corporate glitz. 165). U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk south on Potsdamer Strasse). Potsdamer Platz is a brand-new. See map on p. the Berlin Casino. Am Kupfergraben. and Assyria. Potsdamer Strasse 50. Today. See map p. See map p.). corporations like Sony and Mercedes-Benz rushed in and bought the entire area.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 149 George Grosz that capture the decadent despair of the Weimar years in the 1920s.–6 p. you find the Stella Musical Theater. And what you must see is the Pergamon Altar. will undergo an internal and external face-lift (costing 351€ million /$ 420 million) starting in 2011. . Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. 4€ ($5) students and children. To experience the area. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to the Museum Island).m.–6 p. a Roman building facade from the time of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (around A. 4€ ($5) children and students.m. the renowned Pergamon Museum is the one must-see (along with the bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti in the Altes Museum). Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.m. Potsdamer Platz Tiergarten Before WWII. stroll along the Potsdamer Platz Arcades. The gallery also is used for special traveling exhibitions. the Grand Hyatt Hotel. The entire museum. % 030/2090-5577.m. 143. upscale housing. the square was cut off from the western sector by the wall and became an ugly strip of mined no-man’s-land. Mitte Of all the museums on Museum Island. (Thurs until 10 p. where 140 stores. In 1961. one of the most popular in the city. When you see its grim facade. % 030/266-2951. Around newly created Marlene-Dietrich-Platz. Pergamon Museum Museum Island.m. and cafes invite you to shop and relax. government offices. Persia. dating from 180 to 160 B. One of the most visited attractions is the Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz (% 030/2094-5400).m. and the Cine-Max cinema center. 147. the Kulturforum. the altar was discovered in 1876 in western Turkey. After reunification.).

Open: Dome daily 8 a. Allied bombs destroyed part of the Reichstag in WWII. but the other four museums are definitely worth exploring. The Neues Museum is closed until 2008. Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) Charlottenburg The oldest section of this lovely. Reichstag (House of Parliament) Tiergarten The Reichstag is the seat of the reunified German Parliament. too. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west along the Reichstagufer. UNESCO is the United Nations Educational. gets a much-needed makeover. who. where a sweeping vista of Berlin opens out before you. Built in a pompous high-Renaissance style between 1884 and 1894. Much of the palace was destroyed in WWII and painstakingly reconstructed.–10 p. 143. After a security check. a new glass dome designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster crowns the building. The buildings. The domed neo-baroque Bode Museum at the far northern end of the island and the Altes Museum with its Egyptian and classical antiquities collections reopened in 2005 and 2006 respectively after extensive interior modernization.150 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Museumsinsel (Museum Island): Art by decree Five museums on an island in the River Spree form the oldest museum complex in Berlin and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. the wife of Friedrich I. one of the most popular museums in Berlin. otherwise. and Cultural Organization. blaming the fire on the Communists. . were constructed after Frederick William III issued a decree stipulating that the privately owned artwork of the royal family needed to be made accessible to the public. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the first to reopen its doors after undergoing post-reunification refurbishment. you take an elevator up to the dome. the street that follows the river). % 030/2273-2131.m.m. The dome also has an outdoor observation area and a rooftop restaurant with so-so food (reservations % 030/226-2990). a complicated process of restoring the buildings and reuniting various collections from the East and West began. Today. Platz der Republik. the building was partially destroyed by a fire in 1933 that probably was set by the Nazis. Admission: Free. so I don’t include it in this guide. you may have to stand in line for up to three hours before getting in. See map p. some dating back to the early and mid 19th century. The museums were the main attractions in old East Berlin. Its present form dates from 1790. I recommend that you arrive as early as possible. used the incident as an opportunity to seize power. yellow baroque palace was built in 1695 as a breezy summer abode for Sophie Charlotte. will close in 2011 for several years while it. Scientific. The massive Pergamon Museum. After reunification.

m. Beginning in 1955. on your own. You must pay a separate admission of 6€ ($ 7. The Siegessäule (Victory Column).) With its lawns.spsg. In the northwestern corner.m. This former royal teahouse contains exquisite Berlin porcelain. you find the charming Schinkel Pavilion. 3€ ($ 3. you need at least four to five hours. With a combined ticket. give yourself a couple of hours. a residential area where architects were invited to build projects in the 1950s. The tour is given only in German (you can buy an English-language guidebook at the ticket counter) and includes the historical rooms. Tiergarten Tiergarten The popular Tiergarten (literally.25) children. the eye-catching porcelain room. and pretty Schloss (Palace) Bellevue (S-Bahn: Bellevue). % 0331/969-4202. and to take that tour you have to don huge felt slippers (so you’re effectively polishing the wood floors as you slide around after the guide). one of the great landscape architects of the early 19th century. much of it from the 1700s. an Italianate summer house designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. when desperate citizens chopped down the trees for fuel. in 1825.50) adults. you find the Hansaviertel (Hansa Quarter). In the Schlossgarten. and the royal chapel. Open: Palace and museums Tues–Sun 9 a. the Tiergarten park is a great place to stroll and relax.). with its fine collection of paintings from the neoclassical. is the Belvedere. which is described in the “Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium)” listing later in this chapter. U-Bahn: SophieCharlotte-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Schlossstrasse).und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History). to 5 p. leafy trees. The Museum für Vor. Admission: Combination ticket for historical rooms. www. and flower beds restored to their original patterns. you can. and Biedermeier periods. (last tour at 5 p. At the far end of the Schlossgarten. “animal garden”) covers almost 2.–5 p. Romantic. additionally visit the Galerie der Romantik. and Schlossgarten 8€ ($10) adults.m. 5€ ($6. is the most famous of the Tiergarten’s . the residence of Germany’s president. It was originally was laid out by Peter Josef Lenné.75) children for this museum. To see the palace and museums. and the beautifully landscaped Schlossgarten (palace gardens).5 sq. trees were replanted and walkways.m. a golden goddess of victory perched high atop a red-granite pedestal.m. 145. The park was devastated during and just after WWII. The Berlin mile) and is the most popular green space in central Berlin. (Tiergarten also is the name of Berlin’s smallest neighborhood. the living quarters of Friedrich I and Sophie Charlotte. in the Langhansbau wing. km (1 sq. displays the famous Schliemann collection of antiquities from Troy. which is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. close to the Spree River. canals. ponds. Galerie der Romantik. Luisenplatz. If you just want to stroll. occupies the park’s southwestern corner. the leading architect of the day. and more than 23km (14 miles) of meandering paths.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 151 You can see the palace only on a tour. as a private park for the electors of Prussia. See map p.

is also located here. S-Bahn: Tiergarten or Bellevue.–8 p. 5. on the east by Berlin-Mitte. Friedrich Schinkel’s 1818 Neue Wache (New Watch) served as headquarters for the King’s Guard and now contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Tomb of the Unknown Resistance Fighter. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. 143. The hippoquarium is a new attraction. www.25) for adults. the historically significant buildings along Unter den Linden were spruced up and the avenue filled up with souvenir shops. with more than 550 species of birds. with several monumental buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Admission is 1€ ($ 1. Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium) Tiergarten Founded in 1844. Unter den Linden Mitte Laid out in 1647 and extending a bit more than a kilometer (3⁄4 mile) east from the Brandenburg Gate. The column stands in the center of the Strasse des 17 Juni. The Zeughaus (Armory). a wide boulevard that bisects the Tiergarten and is the western extension of Unter den Linden. Bounded on the west by Bahnhof Zoo and the Europa Center.m. free for children younger than 12. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or Hansaplatz. insects. Berlin’s largest baroque building and the first (1706) major building to be constructed on Unter den Linden. Admission: Zoo 11€ ($14) adults.” came from the linden trees that were originally planted along the street. Germany’s oldest and Europe’s largest zoo occupies almost the entire southwest corner of the Tiergarten. Following reunification. is open daily from 9:30 a. The most popular residents are the giant pandas. to 6:30 p. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you are on the avenue as you exit the station). open daily 9 a. The aquarium is home to more than 9. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (the entrance is a 3-minute walk east on Budapester Strasse).de. reached by climbing up a 290-step spiral staircase. which means “under the lindens. and other creatures. many of them in open habitats. Lustgarten. This boulevard is the oldest and royalest in central Berlin. The zoo also has a modern aviary. See map p. Hardenbergplatz 8.zoo-berlin. the Brandenburg Gate.) observation platform. Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s most famous and historically significant streets. www. The column’s 48m-high (157-ft.000 animals live here. % 030/25-40-10. 147.50€ .) squats at the end of Unter den Linden.m. More than 13.m. The name. See map p. The giant Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral. and Potsdamer Platz.000 fish. reptiles. Bus: 100. With kids in tow you can easily spend half a day in the zoo and aquarium. luxury car showrooms.152 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany many monuments. the oldest of Berlin’s three opera houses.m. See map p. 143. houses the Deutsches Museum (see the later section on “Finding more cool things to see and do”).aquarium-berlin. and cafes.

silverware. Berlin newest new museum.ddr-museum.m. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt).).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 153 ($7) children. Königin-LuiseStrasse 6–8 (% 030/8385-0100. houses one of the world’s finest collections of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and Art Deco furniture.m. near the Tiergarten. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 at Weimar. to 6 p. aquarium 11€ ($14) adults.m. aquarium year-round daily 9 a. Finding more cool things to see and do Berlin is full of museums. . U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). 8.m.m. offers an interesting. glass. Klingelhöferstrasse 14 (% 030/254-0020.25) for adults. and crafts. www. is open Wednesday through Monday from 10 a. ߜ The Bauhaus–Archiv Museum für Gestaltung (BauhausDesign Museum).–5 p. You need at least an hour to peruse the exhibits. A small botanical museum (open daily 10 a. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). Admission is 7€ ($9) adults. U-Bahn: Dahlem–Dorf).botanischer-gartenberlin.m. is dedicated to the Bauhaus school. Schlossstrasse 1A (% 030/3269-0600.50€ ($3) for children. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1 (% 030/847-123-731.–6 to moved to The museum is small enough that you can see everything in an hour. and technology. The museum. English-language texts and audio guides describing the exhibits are available. 4€ ($5) children younger than 12.m. 2. brohan-museum. located near the Dahlem Museums on the outskirts of Berlin.m.m. painting. combined ticket 17€ ($25) adults. ߜ The DDR Museum. completed in 1979. The museum.–6 p.m. free on first Wednesday of every month.m. www.50€ ($7) children. The garden is open daily from 9 a. S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten. Admission is 5€ ($6. and finally settled in Berlin.m. www. Oct 15–Mar 14 daily 9 a. is one of the last works of the great Berlin-born architect Walter Gropius. a completely decorated set of rooms from a luxurious private residence of the 1920s and 1930s. Give yourself an hour or so to stroll through the garden itself. 5. You also find an extensive arboretum and several special collections. ߜ The Bröhan Museum. free for children 12 and younger. contains vast collections of European and exotic plants.m.25). www.50€ ($) children. ߜ Berlin’s Botanischer Garten (Botanical Garden). hands-on experience of everyday life in the Communist DDR (Deutsche Democratische Republik. all from 1889 to 1939. including a garden for blind visitors and another with water plants.. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. is also on the premises. A must-see is the Suite Emile-Jacques Ruhlman. sculpture. de. design. to 5 p. gardens and many other places to visit — you won’t be lacking of things to do. which sought to combine art. The Palm House is one of the largest in the world. Here are additional places that you may find of interest.–6:30 p. Admission is 5€ ($6. before the Nazis forced the school to disband in 1933. of more interest to dedicated gardeners than the general Open: Zoo Mar 15–Oct 14 daily 9 a.

to 6 p.m.m. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). winds past several picturesque bays and beaches along the Havel River. located on the Spreepromenade directly opposite the Berlin Cathedral. The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. The museum. nostalgic charm to many of the exhibits. Unter den Linden 2 (% 030/20304-444. and rummage through drawers and closets.m. The fascinating Marlene memorabilia includes photos. You find a revolving restaurant (the Telecafe) up there. The rooms are set up chronologically. (Thurs until 8 p.-mile) forest that begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm. props. ߜ The Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum).de.m. Sony Center in Potsdamerstrasse 2 (% 030/300-9030. too. ߜ The Filmmuseum Berlin. the DDR’s version of a car. and daily November through February from 10 a. is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. while the eastern border is roughly marked off by four lakes: . www.000 years of German history in pictures and for children under 16. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). and documents. Admission is 6€ ($7. open doors. costumes. to midnight. An elevator whisks you up to the top for a stunning panorama. www. is a weird-looking television tower built by the Communists back in the 1960s.m.50) for adults. is open daily from 10 a. appeals to anyone who has an interest in German film or film in general. or German Democratic Republic. ߜ The Grünewald (S-Bahn: Grünewald). letters. ߜ The Fernsehturm am Alexanderplatz (Television Tower). Personally. www. The tower is open daily March through October from 9 a.75) for students. From Heerstrasse. Alexanderplatz (% 030/242-3333.m.dhm. in English) before the fall of the wall in 1989. admission is 4€ ($5). to 6 p.m.m. the forest stretches some 10km (6 miles) south to the popular Wannsee lake.-km (15-sq..25).) Admission is 5€ ($6. (Sat until 10 p. Havelchausee. is a new museum housed in the old Zeughaus (Armory). The elevator to the top costs 8€ ($10) for adults and 3.berliner The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. to midnight. it’s a sobering experience.m. the forest’s western border. Like many German museums. and 3€ ($3. explore a typical DDR living room.50€ ($4. There’s a kind of heartfelt. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). Panoramastrasse 1a.154 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany called the GDR. a 39-sq.filmmuseum-berlin. You need at least an hour here. Visitors can sit in a Trabi. I would recommend that you visit the first-floor galleries devoted to World War II.). this one is exhaustive and can be exhausting because it attempts to cover 2. The entire history of German cinema is documented in rare film clips from the silent era up to the present. Berliners call it “the speared onion” because of its shape. One wing is devoted to the legendary Marlene Dietrich. a native Berliner who catapulted to international fame in 1930 in Josef von Sternberg’s Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel) and went on to become Germany’s only major star in Hollywood. to 8 p.

art books. S-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Den Homosexuellen Opfern des National Socialismus (Killed and Forgotten. and other political victims. see “Checking out the dance clubs and U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). For my recommended gay and lesbian nightspots. Prenzlauer Berg has become the new gay area. The staff is knowledgeable and helpful. English. which has had gay bars since the 1920s. nonfiction.m. www. Bülowstrasse 106 (% 030/216-3336. one of the world’s oldest gay and lesbian bookstores. and other languages. Also see Chapter 9. The Christopher Street Day parade is an even larger citywide gay event that takes place the last week in June. The city’s gay information center is Mann-oMeter. The Homosexual Victims of National Socialism). reads: Totgeschlagen-Totgeschiegen. In the eastern part of the city. www.25). Nollendorfplatz is the site of the Lesbisch-Schwules Stadtfest (LesbianGay Street Fair). Love Parade/Love Week in July attracts thousands to a huge gay party scene. Saturday until 5 p. ߜ The Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum. The first woman ever . to 8 p.. is a large gallery-like space in Kreuzberg with changing exhibitions on gay life in Germany and around the world. and Schildhorn. The gay scene is more international in the area around Nollendorfplatz. Lietzenburger Strasse 9a (% 030/313-9936..mann-o-meter.m. www. Gypsies. Fasanenstrasse 24 (% 030/882-5210. Admission is 5€ ($6. the so-called Pink (or Gay) Village. Kreuzberg is another gay-friendly borough with a big selection of bars. Krumme Lanke. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 2 to 6 p. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm).m.m.prinz-eisenherz. Traditionally. is devoted to the powerful works of Berlinborn artist Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945). up to 500. open daily from 10 a. lesbian and gay life has centered around Nollendorfplatz (U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). Berlin is the only city in the world with a gay museum. and magazines in German. Loaded with wooded paths and sandy beaches. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Mehringdamm 61 (% 030/6959-9050.” later in this Grünewaldsee.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 155 Gay and lesbian Berlin Berlin has a century-old gay and lesbian A memorial plaque mounted on the outside south wall of the Nollendorfplatz subway station. the Grünewald (Green Forest) is a good place to get away from the urban In mid-June. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder that the Nazis exterminated thousands of homosexuals in addition to millions of Jews.schwulesmuseum. The store. Another good source for information is Eisenherz Buchladen. stocks a vast array of new and rare fiction. although on weekends you have plenty of company. in the heart of what has been for decades the gay heart of Berlin. The center is open Monday through Friday from 5 to 9 p.m. Schlachtensee.000 people congregate for this Gay Pride festival. and the city remains a mecca for international gay and lesbian travelers. The Schwules Museum (Gay Museum).de. More information on gay life in Berlin is available on the Web site www.

and old churches make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque ramble along the Spree River. ߜ Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit (Berggruen Museum: Picasso and His Times).m. to 6 p. loss. and 3€ ($3. . ߜ Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter.m. photos. and Giacometti. not far from the Gendarmenmarkt in Berlin Mitte. to 6 p. Matthäiskirchplatz. Braque.25) for adults.50) for adults. U-/S-Bahn: Mendelssohn–Bartholdy–Park). to 6 p. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse). open from 10 a. the themed exhibits chronicle all the major historical events. WWII and its aftermath.–6 p. Kulturforum (% 030/2090-5555. grieving quality.156 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany elected to the Prussian Academy of the Arts. Admission is 6€ ($7.m. % 030/ 2472-4529. ߜ Kunstgewerbemuseum (Arts and Crafts Museum). the quarter was the last major reconstruction project of the German Democratic Party that ruled former East Germany.m. Matisse. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. Many of Kollwitz’s works express the sorrow. Beginning with the city’s founding in 1237. ߜ The Story of Berlin. 4€ ($5) for children. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). period taverns.. the Golden 1920s. Nikolaikirchplatz. including the reign of Frederick the Great. and colorful displays to tell about eight centuries of life in Berlin. Admission is 5€ ($6. to 4:30 p. Kollwitz resigned her position in 1933 to protest Hitler’s rise to power. Named for Berlin’s oldest church. the Nikolaikirche (Church of St.m. a small museum located across from the Egyptian Museum in Charlottenburg. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 11 a.75) for students and children.m. the upper floors contain sculptures. open Tues–Sun 10 a. to 6 p. Nicholas. is an enjoyable multimedia museum that uses films.). Ku’damm-Karree. Kurfürstendamm 207–208 (% 030/8872-0100. 3€ ($3. the church was restored in time for the city’s 750th anniversary in 1987. displays applied arts and crafts from the Middle Ages through the present day. You can see the collection in about half an hour. its most dazzling exhibit. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. is a historic riverside quarter restored to resemble its medieval and baroque heyday (with a few modern design touches). showcases several important paintings by Picasso and works by Klee. sounds.75) for children and students.m.m. and deprivations of wartime and have a stark. Schlossstrasse 1 (% 030/3269-5819. Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. Admission is 8€ ($10) for adults. The basement rooms display contemporary design from the German Bauhaus school to American Charles Eames and the Memphis design group.m. The Nazis later banned her works. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). see earlier description). You also find a nice cafeteria. the Industrial Revolution. adjoining the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery. The lower floors of the museum display woodcuts and lithographs.m. is a collection of medieval church articles in gold and silver. The Guelph Treasure. Reconstructed palaces. down narrow streets illuminated by gas lanterns. your ticket for the Gemäldegalerie will get you in.

m.severinkuehn-berlin. Thursday. The exhibit is open daily from 10 a. and Sundays. Saturdays. Admission is free. Saturday. daily. From November through March. site of the palace of Sanssouci.). head upstairs to the front seats for the best views. The museum is open daily from 10 a. (last admission 6 p.m. This attraction is a good overall introduction to Berlin that teens may enjoy. You can tour Germany’s capital with an experienced guide by bus.m.m. on foot. to 8 p. The price is 37€ ($46) per person.m.). You can get on and off the bus at any point during the hour. The same company’s three-hour “Big Berlin Tour” departs at 10 a. 3. Bus tours Severin+Kühn. a guide takes you down to visit an underground nuclear bomb shelter built in the 1970s. the Brandenburg Gate.m. Severin+Kühn also conducts an interesting tour of Potsdam.m. From April through October. Admission is 9.m. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). making them accessible and enjoyable for kids and adults. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 (% 030/2548-6703. and Potsdamer Platz. The tour passes 14 important stops in Berlin.m. Adolf Hitler. You can catch the double-decker bus in front of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station).m. former residence of Frederick the Great (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter).m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 157 divided Berlin during the Cold War. 2 children).50) for children. costs 22€ ($27) per person. Allow at least two hours to see everything. and 21€ ($26) for families (2 adults. May–Sept). the cheapest bus tour of Berlin is public bus 100. At the end of the tour. or by boat. Tickets cost 20€ ($25) per person. including the Europa Center. is an open-air exhibit detailing how the Nazis came to power and the crimes against humanity they committed under the leadership of der Führer. (Nov–Mar until 3 p. tour on Fridays. to 6 p. and Sunday at 10 a. Severin+Kühn offers its Potsdam/Sanssouci tour on Tuesday.m. to 6 p. 7. which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and passes most of the major sites in western and eastern Berlin. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. (until 8 p.50€ ($9) for students. Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour Taking a guided sightseeing tour (Stadtrundfahrt) can help you to see parts of this huge city that you may otherwise miss.m. and the fall of the wall. .de. located in what once was part of the Nazi SS and Gestapo headquarters.. All tours include a guide who delivers commentaries in German and English. and covers more sites (and includes add-ons like Potsdam or a river cruise).50€ ($4. with an additional 2:15 p. www. ߜ Topographie des Terrors (Topography of Terror). offers a two-hour “City Circle Tour” that departs daily every half-hour from 10 a. and 2 p.m.30€ ($12) for adults. Although you don’t get a guide. Departures are Tuesday through Sunday at 10 a.

such as Goebbels’s Propaganda Ministry and Hitler’s New Reichschancellery. this tour. the city’s best-known boat operator. starts at 2:30 p. Pushkinallee 60–70 (% 030/536-3600. on Saturday.m. the tour starts at 10 a. tour from April through September (Sat only at 1 p. and the monumental heart of the former East Berlin. Local waterways include the Spree and Havel rivers — ranging in size from narrow channels to large lakes — in addition to the many canals created in the 19th century. try one of the English-language walking tours offered by Original Berlin Walks (% 030/ 301-9194.m.158 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Walking tours For an excellent introduction to Berlin and its history. that all of its tours are given only in German (on most tours. Stern.m. among other major sites. Tours last from 21⁄2 to 3 hours and cost 12€ ($15) for adults. 10 a. two.berlinwalks.m. though. 10€ ($13) for those younger than 26. Boat tours A boat tour is the most unusual way to see portions of Berlin. Be aware. “Discover Berlin” is a three-hour introductory tour that takes you past the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate. Mondays from March through September. and 2:30 p.und Kreisschiffahrt.m. the Königliche Bibliothek (Royal Library).com). For a quick and interesting take on Berlin from the water. offers boat trips from April through October. “Jewish Life in Berlin” takes you through the prewar Jewish community.m. or three days at your disposal? The itineraries in this section are common-sense. the Pergamon Museum. with an additional Wednesday 10 a. who wears a Berlin Walks badge.sternundkreis.m. For descriptions of most of the stops. just walk along the Spreepromenade behind the Berlin cathedral. you can request an English translation). free for children younger than 14. Several other companies offer boat tours as well. Nov–Mar). only). “Infamous Third Reich Sites” focuses on the sites of major Nazi buildings in central Berlin. outside the main entrance to Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). in front of the taxi stand. The same company offers other boat tours from Jannowitzbrücke in Berlin-Mitte Schlossbrücke near Charlottenburg Palace. www. and Hafen Treptow. This walk starts daily at 10 a. You don’t need advance reservations for any of the tours. available March through October. the one-hour “Inner City” trip (8€/$10) departing from Nikolaiviertel offers good views of the Reichstag. .de). You meet the guide.m. What do you see if you have only one. and you’ll find several landing docks with waiting boats. Following an Itinerary Every visitor to Berlin faces one problem: how to see as much as possible in a limited amount of time. www. on Sunday. (Nov–Mar at 10 a. see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z” earlier in this chapter. limited-time suggestions that include the top Berlin sights.

where the new dome provides a marvelous view out over the city.m. For the two major Trödelmarkts (flea markets). except on the sales racks in the department stores. followed by a visit to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) and the Neue Nationalgalerie. crystal.m. both in the Kulturforum. First visit the Reichstag. Most stores in Berlin are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. If you have three days in Berlin Spend half of the third day in Potsdam. to 6 or 6:30 p. or a cabaret/variety show. enjoy an opera. and end with a stroll down Unter den Linden or the Kurfürstendamm. for example. Don’t expect a lot of “deals” in Berlin. But keep in mind that you’ll pay less for goods made in Germany and the European Union than for goods imported to Germany from the United States. symbol of Berlin. From there you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. In the evening. Afterward. take a walking or bus tour of Berlin (see “Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour.” earlier). see the “Berlin flea markets” sidebar. Saturday hours usually are from 9 or 10 a. and cutlery. Many stay open late on Thursday evenings. German porcelain. If you have two days in Berlin On the second day. visiting the palace of Sanssouci and grounds (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter).m. china.m.m. Return to Potsdamer Platz to see the newest section of Berlin. head over to the Jüdisches Museum in Freuzberg or explore the Tiergarten. with its Cold War museum. a concert. walk along the Kurfürstendamm and dine in a local restaurant. exploring the nearby Gendarmenmarkt and paying a brief visit to the Pergamon Museum to see the Pergamon Altar and/or the Altes Museum to view the famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti. In the afternoon. Some stores in highly trafficked areas (such as the Hauptbahnhof) are open on Sunday. . and their prices are lower here than in the United States. often to 8:30 p. are prized for their quality. to 2 p. Shopping for Local Treasures Berlin is a great shopping city and you can find just about anything you want. but Sunday shopping is otherwise not common. and then go on to Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) for a palace tour. stop in at Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. In the evening.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 159 If you have one day in Berlin Start early. then walk down Unter den Linden.

Berlin flea markets A flea market in Germany is called a Trödelmarkt or a Flohmarkt. furniture. but the stores there tend to be newer. in addition to stores carrying cheap souvenirs and T-shirts. The shopping scene has definitely moved east as well. The market is open every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. which remains the best place for allpurpose. Quality stores. is the favorite weekend shopping spot for countless Berliners. porcelain. close to Ku-Damm. check out the flea market at Arkonaplatz (% 030/786-9764. and used clothing. adjacent to the Tiergarten S-Bahn station near the corner of the Bachstrasse and Strasse des 17 Juni.m. Stores here often are cheaper than on the fancier KuDamm. and records. If you’re in Mitte on Sunday between 10 a. and 6 p. the Europa Center (% 030/3480088). where you can browse for clothing and bric-a-brac. Europa Center has lost much of its allure and looks dated compared to the newly opened Neues Kranzler Eck. Neighborhoods and malls The main shopping boulevard in the western part of Berlin is the famous Ku-Damm. all-around shopping. truth to tell.m. nostalgia. U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse). especially between Breitscheidplatz and Olivaer Platz. line the street. is Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) and its intersecting streets: Marburger Strasse. U-Bahn: Reinickendorfer Strasse). who come to find pieces of kitsch. to 5 p. The specialty stores on the side streets around the Ku-Damm. and Nürnberger Strasse. an upscale. But. Ranke Strasse. but it’s best to come early because many traders leave by midafternoon. sort-of antiques.m. trendier. which is currently undergoing a piecemeal renovation/face-lift to bring it up to par with eastern Berlin and lure back shoppers. the only decent shopping was in western Berlin.m. If nothing catches your fancy. just take a seat at one of the many cafes around Arkonaplatz and enjoy the scene in one of Berlin’s hippest neighborhoods. The same times apply to the flea market at Heidestrasse (% 030/452-9924. here you find around 75 shops joined by restaurants and cafes. Berlin’s first shopping mall.. including books. is on Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). The Berliner Trödelmarkt (no phone. .160 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Shopping in western Berlin Throughout the decades when the wall divided Berlin. short for Kurfürstendamm (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Another good shopping street in western Berlin. S-Bahn: Tiergarten). here you’ll find antiques and collectibles. outdoor retail “passage” created right on the Ku-Damm at Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). many specializing in German fashions for women. are good shopping grounds. and more expensive. This area offers a wide array of stores.

is good for travel aids and general basics: perfumes. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). with more being added all the time. Austria. named for the hay barns that once stood here. The area later became Berlin’s Jewish quarter. home to some of the most exclusive boutiques in the city. and theaters. You find trendier boutiques along Bleibtreustrasse. household goods. has some of the best boutiques and big-name stores in Berlin. Fashion Every big-name designer you can think of has a store in Berlin. amazingly. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). The Uhland-Passage. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). contains about 100 shops. Wertheim. jewelry.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 161 Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel The newest shopping. is a huge department store. Department stores Kaufhaus des Westens (called KaDeWe [ka-day-vay] for short). The spaces within the courtyards have now been turned into a series of galleries. fashionable women’s shoe store with a helpful staff. clothing for the entire family. known for its six floors of upscale merchandise and sixth-floor food department. Grosse Hamburger Strasse. photography supplies. studios. but here are some lesser-known retail venues that may be of interest to fashionistas. scattered over three levels. including haute-couture women’s clothing. Bleibtreustrasse 30 (% 030/885-0080. and Italy. Chapeaux Hutmode Berlin. is a long-established shop for men’s and women’s clothing made in Germany. Rosenthaler Strasse. Uhlandstrasse 181–183 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). arts. Tauentzien 21 (% 030/21210. Shoppers interested in quality at any price need to head to Kempinski Plaza. Some of the stores offer cost-cutting clothing and housewares. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). The new Potsdamer Platz Arkaden (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). and Sophienstrasse. Cutting-edge shops line the streets around the arcade. and happening neighborhood area is eastern Berlin’s Scheuneviertel. Kurfürstendamm 42 (% 030/881-1000. Kurfürstendamm 231 (% 030/ 880-030. Bleibtreustrasse 51 (% 030/312-0913. Bogner Zenker-Berlin. and souvenirs. Bleibgrün. A grand pre–World War I shopping arcade with interconnected courtyards (Hinterhöfe) occupies most of the block formed by Oranienburger Strasse. and. electrical devices. or “barn district” (S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). at Uhlandstrasse 170 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Wertheim has a large restaurant with a view over half the city. is a couture hatmaker inspired by vintage fashion magazines and glamorous . a small. one of the most comprehensive shopping malls in Berlin. some of its oldest buildings survived the World War II bombing raids that reduced most of Berlin to rubble.

U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). The largest shopping mall in eastern Berlin. clubs. see “Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel. showcasing more than three dozen of the boldest jewelry artisans in the city. variety shows. Perfumes Harry Lehmann. Kurfürstendamm 27 in Kempinski Hotel Bristol (% 030/8867-2110. The prices are amazingly reasonable for the quality of the perfumes. now offers some of Berlin’s most elegant shopping. Kurfürstendamm 226 (% 030/8856340. dance. . and chandeliers. with upmarket boutiques selling everything from women’s fashions to Meissen porcelain. sells porcelain pieces hand-painted and handdecorated with patterns based on traditional 18th. is the place to go for contemporary Rosenthal porcelain and china from Bavaria. For more shopping in the eastern part. at the corner of Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). The main street. offers an array of Meissen dinner plates. one of the most famous porcelain manufacturers in Europe. sculptures. Shopping in eastern Berlin The eastern part of the city has undergone major changes in the retail sector since reunification. Kantstrasse 106 (% 030/324-3582. Savignyplatz 13 Passage (% 030/ 3180-2354. Rosenthal. offering a little bit of everything. and cabarets appealing to every taste. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Treykorn. Porcelain and china Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur (KPM. Royal Porcelain Factory). and leaves. Meissener Porzellan. Discovering Nightlife in Berlin You find more going on in Berlin than in any other city in Germany. is at the Berliner Markthalle.” in this chapter. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). Charlottenstrasse 34 (% 030/20458166. orchestra and chamber concerts. with hundreds of bars. carries the most avant-garde jewelry in Berlin. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorferstrasse). is a wonderfully old-fashioned parfumerie where most of the scents come from old family recipes. Friedrichstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). distilled from flowers. and theater performances every night of the week.162 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany movies from the 1930s. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Berlin’s nightlife is legendary. The performing-arts scene is jammed with opera. grasses.and 19th-century KPM designs.

You can see both opera and ballet here in a house with no bad or Berlin Programm. day-of-performance tickets for music.m. For some of the larger opera.hekticket. If the venue doesn’t have its own Web site. classical concerts. you can buy tickets from ticket agencies. The newest trend is to start performances as early as 6 deutscheoperberlin. is the 1950s-era opera house that served the former West Berlin. and theater venues throughout Berlin are sold for up to 50 percent off at the BERLIN infostores. A Berlin Welcome Card (see Chapter 11) allows you to buy reduced-price tickets (usually 25 percent off) at several major performing-arts venues. including opera. see Chapter for locations and opening hours. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). You also can buy tickets online.m. www. including the opera houses. so everyone can get home at a reasonable hour. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garter) and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 12. Opera and ballet In Charlottenburg. click “Culture” to access a complete list of events in any category for the specific dates of your with outlets at Hardenbergstrasse 29 (% 030/2309930. musicals. Getting tickets You can buy tickets at the venue’s box office (the box office is called a Kasse. Unsold. dance.m. An excellent online source is www.. The box office is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. ballet companies. the Deutsche Oper Berlin. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Good news for culture vultures: With three major symphony orchestras. to 6 p.m. to 2 and classical-music venues. available at all newsstands. up to the time of performance and on Sunday from 10 a.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 163 Finding out what’s happening Check the listings in Zitty (www. you can buy tickets online.m. . you won’t be lacking for things to do. for the latest schedules of what’s going on where. both are open Monday through Friday from 10 a. on the S-Bahn bridge at Alexanderplatz (% 030/ ballet. I include Web sites in this section so you can check performance schedules and ticket information before you arrive in Berlin. Ticket prices range from about 23€ to 80€ ($29–$100). you may be able to order tickets online at and dozens of theaters and cabarets. Whenever possible. which charge a commission. U-Bahn: Deutsche Oper). pronounced kah-suh). Alternatively. Bismarckstrasse 35 (% 030/341-0249 for recorded information or 030/343-8401. three opera houses. Tickets can usually be purchased right up to curtain time. Tickets for more than 100 venues.m. and cabarets are available at Hekticket (www.

Gendarmenmarkt (% 030/203-090. The Berliner Grundtheater (% 030/7800-1497. Tickets are available at the box offices of both venues.. Matthäikirchstrasse 1 (box office % 030/2548-8999. and Sunday from 1 p. and symphony concerts are performed here. and Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 8 p. pitchperfect hall. www. Behrenstrasse 55–57 (% 030/ performs English-language plays in different venues around the city. The Berlin Symphony Orchestra and other orchestras and classical music groups perform in this glittering.m.komische-oper-berlin. Tickets range from about 20€ to 80€ ($25–$100). to 8 p. and an hour before performances.m. The Web site www. I . the Berlin Symphony.thebgt.. is a famous and well-respected East Berlin house with a unique artistic identity.staatsoper-berlin. so if you want to hear this fabulous orchestra.m.m. to the time of performance. Symphony orchestras and classical music In the Kulturforum complex. of course. Unter den Linden 7 (% 030/ The programs feature opera and ballet performances. Theater Berlin’s theater scene is outstanding. is housed in a historic building in Berlin-Mitte. some seats in the upper rings have limited views of the stage. to 7 p. Berlin Phil concerts always sell out. www. www. and one hour before performances.m.75) for standing room to 110€ ($137). Berlin’s Komische has a useful listing of plays and films in English. I suggest you order your tickets online several weeks before your trip. The city’s third major orchestra. The box office (Unter den Linden 4) is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). www.konzerthaus.m.164 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. Prices ranges from 8€ to 62€ ($10–$77). You can buy tickets online. Ticket prices range from about 7€ ($8. www. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. If you don’t speak the language but want to experience German theater. performs at both the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt. most of the plays are performed in German. the renowned Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Sir Simon Rattle plays in the acoustically outstanding U-Bahn: Unter den Linden).de. which is open daily noon to 6 p. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. to 2 p. You can buy tickets at the Konzerthaus box office.m. musicals. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). Different ticket prices apply for each The box office is open Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p. operas.m. Chamber-music concerts are given at the adjoining Kammermusiksaal.m. The historic Schauspielhaus in the former East Berlin has undergone a stunning transformation and is now the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt.

Friedrichstadt-Palast. .cabaret-chez-nous. Die Stachelschweine (The Porcupine). Wintergarten Variété. in Mitte. This section includes just a few of the bars and dance clubs in Berlin. jugglers.m.diestachelschweine. and one hour before performances.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 165 recommend going to see a production by the famous Berliner Ensemble. For more listings.m. Europa Center. Shows begin at 8 p. wintergarten-variete.m. friedrichstadtpalast. Cover is 29€ to 59€ ($36–$74).. Ticket prices range from 17€ to 61€ ($21–$76). is the largest and most nostalgic Berlin cabaret. Chez Nous Travestie-Theater. Potsdamer Strasse 96 (% 030/ with 4 p. balconies have conventional theater seats (but drinks are sold there. www. visit www. is a famous little cabaret where all the performers are in extravagant drag and most of the audience is heterosexual. when the theater’s closed) the performances begin at 8 p.. and 9:15 p. is a big theater that features variety acts from around the world. U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse). www. acrobats. to 6 p. Shows take place Tuesday through Friday at 7:30 p. Checking out the dance clubs and bars If you’re into nightlife.m. www. with a nightly variety show featuring magicians. but most nights (except Playwright Bertolt Brecht formed this group with his The most expensive seats are on stage level. Ticket prices range from about 5€ to 30€ ($6. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).de. Tauentzienstrasse and Budapester Strasse (% 030/261-4795. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1 (% 030/ and spending an evening in one can be enjoyable even if you don’t speak a word of German.m. Marburgerstrasse 14 (% 030/213-1810.. too). to 6 p. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).m. and Saturday at 6 and 10 p. Part of the performance usually involves a selection of popular songs.m. Friedrichstrasse 107 (% 030/2326-2326. This cabaret is closed in July. and live music.25–$37). www. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. Helene Weigel. Nightly shows start at 8:30 and 11 p. matinees on Saturday and Sunday. Shows and showtimes is a cabaret that’s been poking fun at the German and American political scenes for many years www.m. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).m. depending on the show and the day you attend. Believing that these glamorous ladies are really gentlemen sometimes is difficult. Cover is 35€ ($44). Monday through Friday. and many theater fans enjoy seeing Brecht’s plays performed in “his” theater. and Saturday at 6 p. Cabarets and variety shows Berlin has long been famous for its cabarets and variety shows.berliner-ensemble. you can find something to do all across the city. clowns. The cover charge is 12€ to 26€ ($14–$32).

to 4 a.m.m. Mohrenstrasse 30 (% 030/20230. draws a young 20-something crowd. SO36. The cover ranges from 3€ to 8€ ($3. Many bars now have an open-ended closing policy. and Saturday nights.. video clips. otherwise 13€ ($16). U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz).m. call first to verify.. Show days vary. The club is open Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p. a stage for floor shows. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). Metropole..m. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte).m.m.m. depending on the night and who’s playing. Friday. to 4 a. and highly danceable music. Friday and Saturday from 9 p. Kantstrasse 12A (% 030/312-8086. Pestalozzistrasse 105 (% 030/313-2550. to 4 a. including rock and Latin jazz.75–$10).. smoky jazz club featuring musicians from around the world.m. in trendy Kreuzberg. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). and fog machine. to 4 a.50€ ($7). is a small.m. Far Out.m.166 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bars and clubs don’t generally get going until midnight. . U-Bahn: Prinzenstrasse). Cover is 10€ to 16€ ($13–$19). U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). The club is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9 p. to 4 a. Saturday and Sunday until 7 a. Kurfürstendamm 156 (% 030/3200-0717. Cover is 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). to 4 a. to 2 a. Cover is 3€ to 8€ ($3. is Berlin’s top jazz club. Knaack-Klub. The club is open Monday through Thursday from 8 p. is a four-story club with live rock shows four nights a week featuring German and international touring bands. has two very large rooms. Nollendorfplatz 5 (% 030/217-3680. the crowd is a hip mixture of gay and straight. in happening Prenzlauer Berg.75–$10). depending on the band. Club hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 10 p. Greifswalderstrasse 224 (% 030/442-7060.m.m.m.25). An empty club may choose to close at 2 a. Please keep in mind that new bars open and bars close all the time. Dance clubs Chip.m. housed in an old theater with an Egyptian temple interior. where you encounter many different styles of music.m. but a packed club can stay open until 6 a. Live music A Trane. is a large.m. industrial-looking late-night disco that plays mostly high-energy retro rock for a crowd that includes lots of students. This section includes places that are likely to be around for years to come. to 5 a. The club is open most nights from 10:30 p.m. Hours are Monday to Friday 10 p. Admission is free on Tuesday and Wednesday when local musicians perform. The club is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 p. Cover usually is about 5€ ($6. Oranienstrasse 190 (% 030/6140-1306. is a glossy and popular dance club with a great lighting system. Quasimodo. Berlin Hilton. so call first.m. Cover is 5. You always find dancing on Wednesday.m. U-Bahn: Savignyplatz).

cozy. more for anything exotic. Many Berliners have a favorite Kneipe where they stop in after work or later in the evening for a beer and a chat with their friends. Times Bar is open daily from 11 a. The bar is open daily from 3 p. Lore Berlin is open nightly until 3 a. Neighborhood bars: Kneipes and Lokals Do you want to find a casual. Bar am Lützowplatz.m. is hip and fun.m. Harry’s New York Bar. Admission is about 4€ ($5) for concerts. and they offer meals (see the “Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs” sidebar in this chapter). Lützowufer 15 in Grand Hotel Esplanade (% 030/ 2547-8821. and rockabilly.m. great dance music. less for a glass of beer.m.m.m. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). is chic and elegant. Harry’s is open daily from noon to 2 a. Wienerstrasse 20 (% 030/611-7010. and intimate. Lützowplatz 7 (% 030/262-6807. to 2 a. The Times Bar isn’t a late-nightscene bar. quiet.m. unpretentious spot for a plain old glass of bier vom Fass (beer on tap)? What you need is a Kneipe (ka-nigh-puh). Expect to pay at least 6€ ($7. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Bahnhof). These places tend to be fashion-conscious. Reingold. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). The following bars currently are popular. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). Times Bar. to 10 a.. with minimalist décor. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz). is reminiscent of a wood-paneled private club in London. one of the longest and narrowest bars in Berlin. rock. and photographs of American presidents. with bands from Germany and elsewhere playing Wednesday through Saturday nights. The place is open nightly until 4 a. is dedicated to hard-core punk. so you may feel out of place if you show up in blue jeans and sneakers. Neue Schönhauser Strasse 20 (% 030/2804-5134. to 4 a. geared toward a very late-night glamour crowd. Popular bars Later is better if you want to go out barhopping and see what’s happening in Berlin.m. has a menu listing almost 200 drinks and a limited selection of food.m.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 167 Wild at Heart.m. The club is open Monday through Friday from 8 p. features cutting-edge design. until 4 a. Lore Berlin. 11 Novalistrasse (% 030/2838-7676. otherwise free. but rather a place where you can relax in a big leather chair and read The Times of London. a cozy place similar to a neighborhood pub in the United Kingdom.50) for a straightforward drink. Saturday and Sunday from 8 p. Fasanenstrasse 9 (% 030/311-030. Savoy Hotel. . and an intriguing mix of people hanging around a long and narrow bar with theatrical lighting that makes almost everyone look attractive. A small bar like this sometimes is called a Lokal (low-call). Brewpubs also are good places to sample beer. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz).m. pop art.

You can choose between beers brewed on-premises. Berlin is home to hundreds of Kneipes and Lokals. is named after the statue of St.90–$16). Gaststätte Hoeck is the oldest Kneipe in Charlottenburg and still has its original wood panels with inlaid glass on the walls. the helles (light) is top-fermented. Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci Frederick the Great’s Schloss Sanssouci (palace of Sanssouci) in Potsdam is the architectural signature of one of Germany’s most dominating personalities.m. and raucous. and a nice balance of hop bitterness and malt flavor. even though the building is relatively new. A famous one is Gaststätte Hoeck.m. but be sure to make the palace of Sanssouci your top priority. The dunkles (dark). U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz). to midnight.. Allow yourself at least half a day to visit this remarkable palace and its beautiful grounds. U-Bahn: Klostergasse). You can order hearty portions of German food (meat. topfermented beer.50€ to 13€ ($6. Friday and Saturday 10 a. The bar can be loud. Wilmersdorferstrasse 149 (% 030/341-8174. You can also order plates of hearty German food.m. The house beer is a pale. The brewpub is open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a. smoky. and unfiltered.m. You can order beer in a smallish 6-ounce (0.m. main courses go for 9. unfiltered. sauerkraut. Potsdam. a yeasty aroma. The smoky interior of this brewpub is comfortably Old Berlin.) .. The town celebrated its 1. Traditional food is served in an adjacent room Monday through Saturday from 11 a.2-liter) glass (1. also unfiltered and topfermented. Spreeufer 4 (% 030/242-4244. and salads) to accompany your beer.4-liter) serving (3. blond.60€/$2) or in an 11-ounce (0. Dating from 1892. main courses run from 5. U-Bahn: Bismarckstrasse). Gasthaus Luisenbräu. or microbrewery) in Berlin. 24km (15 miles) southwest of Berlin. is now the capital of the state of Brandenburg.m. has a darkish amber color. (See the “Potsdam” map on the next page.50€ to 13€ ($12–$16). Bartenders pour more than a dozen kinds of beer and serve wine by the glass. to midnight.20€/$4). dumplings. Hours are 8 a. Luisenplatz 1 (% 030/341-9388. The Gasthof is open daily from 10 a. opened in 1987 across the street from Charlottenburg Palace.000th anniversary in 1993 and has historic sites of its own. to 2 a.m. George right outside.168 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs The first Bierhaus (brewpub. Gasthaus Georgenbräu. blond. a brewpub in the Nikolaiviertel beside the River Spree. a former garrison town on the Havel River. to 12:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.

Cross the road..-V.25 mi N DINING Biergarten 6 Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle” 7 ATTRACTIONS Bildergalerie 5 Chinesische Teehaus 3 Neues Palais 1 Orangerie 2 Schloss Cecilienhof 8 Schloss Sanssouci 4 Information i Railway Getting there To get to Sanssouci. rgstr s PA R K S A N S S O U C I 5 tr.25 km 0. Str. He zig Tor no eip Im Bogen 631 610 606 Str. Weinbe Hauptallee lallee e 1 Heg 3 Jägera 2 Sc Friedrich-Ebert-Str. str S-Bahn Station S inr ich t ies te-P en ule str wk . The trip couldn’t be easier: From Berlin. Str Kurfü rsten er ass e H.-Sachs-Str. 695 in front of the station and ride nine stops to the Schloss Sanssouci stop. Lindenavenue Be konomieweg Ökonomieweg Lennéstr. 608 ls-Str. Hop on bus no.Ossietzky-Str. 694 tr. If you don’t want to hassle with anything. . Feue rba str. ws Havel -M er an nAl lee L 0 0 0. turn left. Lo a- St r. tten Charlo str. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof asse i ge Lan cke Brü tr. Nedlitzer St en str . str Ze e pp lin . S-Bahn line S7 stops at the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 169 Potsdam Hamburg 614 Berlin Potsdam r. au 4 er .60€ ($2). Ne uen 692 en Am Ga B273 Po tsdam er Str. the cost is generally about 40€ ($50) for a half-day fast-track tour. lst ze str. Eichenallee n str. Tiefer See Hu Br mbo üc ld ke t- Nu th es Breite Str Forststr. en dt M ran mb Re Am Neuen Palais Linden str. and you’ll almost immediately come to a flight of stairs leading up to the palace. C. you can take one of the Potsdam–Sanssouci bus tours offered by the sightseeing bus companies on Ku-Damm (see “Bus tours” earlier in this chapter). r. rn Bo NEUER GARTEN Heiliger See rsc rten Ki un ds e Am Ruinenberg llee BERLINER VORSTADT er str . s te r dte g irewe Volta Allee str. Jungfernsee 8 GERMANY ee ha ll ds Am un Frankfurt Munich Am S Pap pela llee chra g BORNSTEDT Ka th ho arin lzs en tr. ch- Schloss Charlottenhof Kastanienallee Am Ka n ue Ne en AmGart M an g str. 94 95 W BRANDENBURGER VORSTADT St or m . nal rlin ho 6 7 pe Gregornh Mendel-Str. The bus fare is 1. Fried rich-E nge Sch laa tzs tr. you must first get to Potsdam. Dortustr.

open daily from 9 a. You can see the palace only on a guided tour costing 8€ ($10) for adults.potsdam.m. and philosophy.).de). you may have to wait for a much later tour. to 5 p. Discovering the top attractions Potsdam didn’t gain true importance until the “Great Elector” Friedrich Wilhelm (1620–1688) chose the lovely. Your ticket tells you what time you can enter the palace to begin your guided tour. From then on. and inexpensive guidebooks for both the town and the palace are available at the Potsdam tourist information office in the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (% 0331/270-9051. and make music with composer Carl Philip Emanuel Bach. poetry. If you don’t arrive early. To escape the rigors of Berlin court life. brochures. and his planning still is evident in the restored vineyard terraces and the area immediately around the palace. (Nov–Mar from 10 a. lakey area to be his second seat of residence outside Berlin. Either before or after your tour. to 6 p.m. to 4 p.m. Potsdam was a royal hangout. Sanssouci was built between 1745 and 1747 as Frederick’s summerhouse.m. Before setting off on the tour.m.m. One of the greatest and most beautiful examples of European rococo. Waits in summer months can be up to three hours long. A timed-entry system is in effect at Sanssouci.m. Fred the Great created the original design for the grounds. a place where he could let his wig down. spend some time wandering through the magnificent landscaped gardens with their bevy of historic buildings.) and on Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. (in winter.m. All the buildings listed here are signposted so you won’t get lost on the grounds. All kinds of rococo treasures fill the palace. Friedrich II (called Frederick the Great.m. 1712–1786) built in Potsdam a “small” country palace where he could retire sans souci (without a care) and indulge his passions for music. and 5€ ($6.m.170 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding tourist information Maps. Sanssouci was a summer resort for an enlightened monarch. Sat–Sun until 2 p. and you must ask for them. discuss weighty matters with French philosopher Voltaire.).25) for children and students. Your tour time is printed on your ticket. . to 8 p. leafy. Schloss (Palace) Sanssouci (% 0331/969-4190) is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. The tour is given only in German. you’re required to don huge felt slippers so you don’t scuff the floors. but information sheets in English are available from the guide.m. (Nov–Mar to 4 p. which you see on a tour that lasts about 45 minutes. You find another tourist office at Am Neuen Markt 1 (% 0331/275-580). open Monday through Friday from 9:30 a. In short. www.

you can grab a quick. to 5 p. ߜ The Chinesische Teehaus (Chinese Teahouse) is a little gem of a rococo building resembling a pagoda. to 5 p.m. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. on the eastern side of the palace grounds.). % 0331/969-4200) was a royal residence from 1917 until 1945. (Nov–Mar until 4 p.m. to 5 p. The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. ߜ The Neues Palais (New Palace.m. and Russian dictator Joseph Stalin.). contains copies of paintings by Raphael and features ornately decorated salons.m. Now the palace serves as a hotel and conference center. At the end of WWII.–6 p.m. west of the palace. % 0331/969-4181). the largest building in Sanssouci park.m. The food is basic wursts with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad). (closed Thurs). Ornamental “Oriental” buildings like this were all the rage in 18th-century Europe. The gallery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m.m.). you find the fancier Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle.) across the road behind the palace of Sanssouci. In the adjacent pavilion.” where you can order a complete meal (open year-round daily 10 a. Schloss Cecilienhof (Cecilienhof Palace. 10 a.50).m.m. Dining at Sanssouci From May through September.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 171 ߜ The Bildergalerie (Picture Gallery. You can eat for under 4€ ($5) and sit at outdoor tables. The palace is open Saturday through Thursday from 9 a. to 5 p. inexpensive bite at the Biergarten kiosk (no phone. Admission is 2€ ($2. Admission is 3€ ($3.m. open May–Sept daily 10 a.).m. The privileged classes would retire here to drink a new beverage called tea. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. to 5 p. the palace was used as headquarters for the Potsdam Conference attended by the heads of the Allied powers. ߜ The mid-19th-century Orangerie (% 0331/969-4280). The Orangerie is open mid-May to midOctober. was completed in 1763 and displays a collection of works from the Italian Renaissance and baroque eras. More interesting are the rooms used for the Potsdam Conference. President Harry Truman. was completed in 1769 and used by the Hohenzollern royal family.S. Admission is 8€ ($10) for a grand tour of all the rooms.m. This building is not open to the public. Admission for the guided tour is 8€ ($10). including U.75). (Nov–Mar until 4 p. ߜ Built to look like an English country manor. . you can visit the private rooms used by Crown Prince Wilhelm and Princess Cecelie. % 0331/969-4255). Inside you see rococo rooms filled with paintings and antiques. On a guided tour.m.

leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number. to 9 p. Canadian. Information The main tourist information centers. called BERLIN infostores. embassies and consulates. use 030. for a per-minute land-line telephone fee. open Monday through Friday 9 a. % 01804/ 2255-2362. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). the first Saturday of the month. Except in the train stations.m. For an emergency doctor. If you’re within Germany but not in Berlin.m. to 1 or 3 p. and Saturday 10 a. South African.m. Hospitals Hotel employees are familiar with the location of the nearest hospital emergency room. call % 030/8900-4333.K.m. Emergencies To call the police. You can also exchange money at American Express (see the beginning of this list for addresses). U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).S. and Friedrichstrasse 172 (% 030/201-7400. On langer Samstag (longer Saturday). ATMs You find ATMs all across Berlin.172 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Fast Facts: Berlin American Express American Express has two main offices: Bayreutherstrasse 37–38 (% 030/21476292. Currency Exchange The currency exchange offices in the Hauptbahnhof and Bahnhof Zoo are open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m.. Country Code and City Code The city code for Berlin is 30. Most other businesses and stores are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a.m. Two convenient bank branches with 24-hour ATM service are Deutsche Bank at Wittenbergplatz (U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz) and Dresdner Bank at Kurfürstendamm 237 (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). In an emergency. to 7 p.m. and U.m. to 1 p. U. and on Sunday from 10 a.m.m. dial % 112.m.m. Embassies and Consulates See the appendix for the addresses of the Australian.).m. Irish. If you’re calling within Berlin.m. open Monday through Friday 9 a.m. call % 030/31-00-31 (24 hours). you can locate a doctor through Call a Doc. to 6 or 6:30 p.m. are located in the Hauptbahnhof (U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). See also “Telephone” later in this list and in the appendix. shops stay open until 4 or 6 p. and Saturday 10 a.m. call % 112 for an ambulance. to 2 p. in Neue Kranzler Eck at Ku-Damm and Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz or Unter den Linden) and under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at . to 2 p.m. To report a fire or to summon an ambulance. to 7 p. Business Hours Most banks are open Monday through Friday 9 a. Some stores stay open late on Thursday (usually until 8:30 p. to 6 p. and Saturday from 9 a. Use 30 whenever you’re calling Berlin from outside Germany. Dentists and Doctors You’ll find a list of doctors and specialists in the Berlin Yellow Pages or. dial % 110. stores are generally not open on Sunday.m. for an emergency dentist.m.. Berlin phone numbers may have from five to eight digits.

is the Dorotheenstadtische Apotheke.m. Transit Assistance The Transit Authority (BVG. Restrooms You find public facilities throughout Berlin and at all train terminals.m. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). see the appendix. The same hours . Saturday 8 a. go to Europa–Apotheke. Internet Access One of Berlin’s largest Internet cafes is EasyEverything.S. Kurfürstendamm 224 (www. www. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12 (% 030/261-4142.. go to the nearest one and look for a sign in the window giving the address of the nearest pharmacy with nighttime hours (such postings are required by law). Police To call the police. a few steps from Unter den Linden. available at most newsstands.bvg. in others. most accept only Telefonkarte (telephone cards).de) provides U-Bahn information (% 030/19449) and S-Bahn information (% 030/2974-3333) daily from 6 a. Some require 0. For hours and other information about each office. branch locations are in the Sony Center and Karl-Marx-Strasse 78. 173 Regular post office hours are Monday through Friday 8 Safety Berlin is safer than most large U. Taxis with illuminated roof signs are available. For more about fares and where to call for a taxi. Pharmacies If you need a pharmacy (Apotheke. For a centrally located pharmacy. Many phones also accept Visa cards. In Mitte. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Alexanderplatz (S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.m. Most have instructions in English. check out Chapter 11. Friedrichstrasse 154 (% 030/204-4817. Taxis You can hail taxis along Berlin’s major streets. until noon. which you can purchase in 6€ and 25€ ($7. you are expected to leave 0. to 6 p. You can also make long-distance calls from post offices. Post Office The main post office at Joachimstaler Strasse 7 (% 030/8870-8611. to 10 p. cities. Newspapers and Magazines Newsstands carry Zitty and BerlinProgramm.m. to midnight. U-/S-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). use common sense and caution when you’re in a crowded public area. Taxes See the appendix for details. To make an international call. which list events around the city. For more. ah-potay-kuh) at night.50€ to get in through a turnstile. if there is an attendant. easyeverything. dial % 110. see Chapter 11.m. As in any large metropolis. to midnight. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. Single women need to avoid the dimly lit streets in Kreuzberg at night. located near the Europa Center.20€ as you depart. offering over 300 terminals. Sunday and holidays from 10 a.m.m. Telephones Finding a coin-operated telephone in Berlin is now rare.50 and $31) denominations at any post office or news vendor. Maps The most detailed Berlin map with a complete street index is the fold-out Falk plan. use a call box marked Inlands und Auslandsgespräche. At these sites.zitty. Weather You can check the weather online before you go at www. you find information in English about events. de. restaurants. Web Sites The best overall Web sites for tourist information on Berlin are www. nightlife. and more. . where you can buy tickets and obtain a free transit map.174 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany apply to the BVG information kiosk outside Bahnhof and www.

Hamburg. has a flat. even during the summer. located on the Elbe River about 100km (62 miles) from the North Sea. trade. Don’t expect dry. km (294 sq. prosperous city. and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the port city of Hamburg ᮣ Touring the ancient city of Bremen ᮣ Exploring medieval Lübeck T his chapter covers three cities in northern Germany with long histories of seafaring. Lübeck. Everyone carries away a different impression of this bustling. Some find Hamburg to be a bit smug. even haughty. miles). which also is one of Germany’s 16 federal states. A sense of the vast northern seas permeates the city. Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World Hamburg. but also densely green and filled with trees. watery landscape that spreads out over 754 sq. and Bremen were important members of the Hanseatic League. and sweater probably will come in handy. and commerce. (See the “Hamburg” map in this chapter. Hamburg is sin-city . a city of “high culture” and elegance and obsessed with making money. If you’re traveling in the north. marshlands. For others. In fact.) The terrain is characteristic of northern Germany: low. the most powerful commercial network in Europe. windswept. Bremen. raincoat. Hamburg and Lübeck still retain the term Hansestadt (Hanseatic City) in their official titles. sunny weather in northern Germany at any time of the year. an umbrella.Chapter 13 Hamburg. often gray and misty. and lakes. In medieval times. Hansa cities formed trade affiliations that linked northern Germany to the eastern Baltic regions and Scandinavia.

Jacobikirche 21 e ss St. PAULI Reepe rbahn 8 Ludw Ho sse 9 lst Schom en of e p Gri nde lalle Eim sbü tte l er Ch burgstra Palmaille Fischmarkt aar tor G r o s s e Elbes t r ass e Elbe Baumwall Alst Sch erfl König Frie eet strass e se ras hst dric Herbert- tr ocht-S hard-N strasse Bern St. Michaelis a7 str Tierpark Hagenbeck 1 ch ba Wallringpark: Alter Botanischer Garten 13 Grosse Wallanlagen 10 Kleine Wallanlagen 11 Planten und Blomen 12 Keiler 1 HOHELUFT Le hm w eg Ho he g R2 or nd r fe we Jungfrauenthal luf tch au sse G E Hamburg Berlin NY Frankfurt M A R Munich pe ism c ar ks tr se as Ep e Innocentiapark B HARVESTEHUDE Werder- Sc asse hla EIMSBÜTTEL Bu nde sstr nk re ye Hallerstrasse ee Be sse Ludw igErha S t r a sr d se Karolinenstr kort stra Al t on asse r ae St ra ss e SternschanzenHeinrichpark HertzTurm Re str ntz as else Planten un Blomen 12 Alter Botanischer Garten Har Feldstrasse 13 Kleine Wallanlagen -Fock rch 11 Go Ha u 4 sse e cis 2 3 ch Heiligengeistfeld au 10 Gla Grosse Wallanlagen ll Gr ilh elm ps all im wa ind am Sc hl elh r-W F r u c h t a ll e e S chä fer k um St Gros Freih se eit Thadenstrasse erL o u ise-S c h r ö d sse Stra Simon -von- Utrecht-Strasse ALTONA 4 ST.-PauliLandungsbrücken 5 asse Schaarsteinweg Blei 6 tin ar rM the se Lu tras S chen 7 trasse fleet Stras s e au s see Bud ape Ka ise ster stra - ra sse ss e ig-Erh ard-S .176 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg ACCOMMODATIONS Aussen Alster 28 Hamburg Marriott 15 Hotel Hafen Hamburg 6 Hotel Side 14 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg 26 Park Hyatt Hamburg 22 Pension Helga Schmidt 25 Wedina 27 DINING Apples Restaurant 22 Cremon Weinkeller 17 Die Rösterei 23 Eisenstein 3 Fischküche Karin Brahm 18 Le Paquebot 20 Melange 6 Ratsweinkeller Hamburg 19 Voltaire Bistro 2 ATTRACTIONS R2 Alster Lake 29 Erotic Art Museum 4 Hafen (Harbor) 5 Hamburger Kunsthalle 24 Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte Strese9 mann strass Rathaus 16 e Reeperbahn 8 4 St.

25 km Ha St mbu ra r ss ge e r Le rc he nf eld Bellevue Be lle Sie vu rich e Herderstrasse stra sse Be et ho n ve str as se He rbe rt-W eic hm ann -St W in te rh ud er W eg Harvest ras Sc h lweg ön huder Weg lend amm er ck e be ss Lü stra Ju ng fe rn sti eg Po sts tra en sse 75 Nag elsw eg ook stra sse N .-HeussPlatz GustavMahler-Park eruf Se ch sli ng K Ko op pp e ls Wall 14 Ken ne dyb rücke L Lo om mb ba arrd ds sb brrü üc ck ke e An de 27 tra asss se rA l r ste 28 sp fo rte e BORGFELDE lal e W rass st 26 25 24 Hachmannplatz ST.25 mi Bro or okt kai Information i 0. and Lübeck 177 Fer Hochallee strasse nsic ht Gell Hans-H en n erts se tras -W ahn y-J eg BARMBEK Weide strasse Hallerstras Rothenbaumchaussee se Mitte Alsterpark PÖSSELDORF Milchst rasse UHLENHORST se 5 da eA uss i m ch t ds bu m er ROTHERBAUM Aussenalster lweg en wi k HOHENFELDE Müh Mitte hw an M un rg 29 er Sc Alst Th. GEORG Hansaplatz S in te da m m 15 CAB asse Str Ba lin da m m Binnenalster Hauptbahnhof öncke 22 M 23 21 22 se as t Steinstr Speersor i Adena K i Ble che nfl eet 20 sse bergstra e ueralle ee r-All ache m u h c S t r u tra M 16 Börse st er g ö n c ke b r. Petri Kirche 19 sse asse gstr sse ldin a Spa nalstr a rdk No Ham me rbr ALTSTADT Do ms 17 e Dov nfle Ob er brü baum cke - Ost-West-Strasse Katharinenstrasse et Am sin B Ba an nks cks tra 18 Kajen stra a sse 0 0 s ss se e 0.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Bremen. Matt Holzb nde Sa ra ss e St.

By train Hamburg has two major rail stations. Hamburg has a huge. an array of easily identified banks with currency-exchange windows. you’re as much aware of water as land — Hamburg has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined. Much of the city was destroyed during World War II (WWII). bustling.). For train information.) to the city’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station). which stops in front of terminals 1 and 4. From Berlin.m.10) for children younger than 12.20€ ($6. land of the lurid Reeperbahn. call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) at % 11861. Paul-Baumer-Platz 1–3 (% 040/50750.airport.m. and other independent currency-exchange services and ATMs. The one-way fare is 5.178 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany incarnate. the journey takes about 25 minutes.m. this city makes a good headquarters. Hachmannplatz 10 (% 040/39183046). depending on traffic. A taxi from the airport to the city costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 30 minutes. Hamburg has train connections with all major German and European www. which explains why you find historic buildings standing side by side with steel-and-glass structures. The terminal contains a tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300) in the arrivals area of terminals 1 and 2 (open daily 5:30 a. Most trains arrive at the centrally located Hamburg Hauptbahnhof. The easiest way to get into the city is by the Airport Express bus. Germans often call it their “gateway to the world.ham. not under. a street where sex is sold overthe-counter. Most major European cities have direct flights to Hamburg. horn-blaring port and sedate late-19th-century neighborhoods. the trip time is 21⁄2 hours.–9:20 p.” Getting there Hamburg is the largest city in northern Germany and is easy to reach by train. and then make a second stop at Hamburg-Altona (% 040/39182387) in the western part of the city. Intriguing Hamburg is worth a day or two of your time. By plane Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of the city center is Hamburg Airport.–11 p. The bus runs every 15 to 20 minutes (5 a.50€ ($3.50) for adults and 2. An S-Bahn line connects the two stations. plane. Taxi stands are in front of all the terminals. Because of the Elbe and two enormous inner-city lakes. With its giant port and strongly international flair. If you want to explore northern Germany.m. . and car.

Alsterfleet and Bleichenfleet. to 6 p. including a drink. a lake rimmed by Hamburg’s most significant buildings. northwest of Aussenalster. Cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. Kirchenallee entrance. Taking a bus tour A guided bus tour is the best way to get a feel for Hamburg and its various neighborhoods and special areas. Two canals.m. double-decker buses depart Saturday and Sunday from April through October at 2 p. Hamburg Stadt Rundfahrt (% 040/792-8979) offers the Elbe Tour. and the A24 from the east. lichter-tour. is a tree-filled residential district with many fine 19th-century villas and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings. Cost is 18€ ($22) for from May through October and includes a visit to the St. In the harbor area. you find tourist information (% 040/3005-1300) at the St. Cost. Central Hamburg surrounds the Alster.m. from the St. www. 7€ ($9) for children up to 14. November through March 10 a.-Pauli-Landungsbrüucken.-PauliLandungsbrücken between piers 4 and 5.Chapter 13: starts at 8 p. Tickets for all tours are available on the bus and all tours have live commentary in English. Flanking the Binnenalster on the south is the Jungfernstieg. The 90-minute Top Tour (www. Pauli Reeperbahn district. 6€ ($7. Pösseldorf.m. to 5 run south from Binnenalster. A word to the wise: Park your car and use public transportation in this busy city. the A7 from the north and in the main train station near the main entrance. Bremen. Another good online source of information is www. and Lübeck 179 By car The A1 Autobahn reaches Hamburg from the south and departs every 30 minutes from 9:30 a.m.m.50) for children. Daily tours on double-decker buses operated by Hamburger Stadtrundfahrten (% 040/641-3731) leave from the main train station. This office is open April through October daily from 8 a. Two bridges. The office is open daily from 8 a. the city’s commercial and shopping district. (hourly in winter). channeling water from the . The three-hour “Lights of Hamburg” tour (www. the Lombardsbrücke and the Kennedybrücke.m.m. is 30€ ($37). which lasts 2 hours and 30 minutes and includes towns along the Elbe River. Orienting yourself The Hauptbahnhof is located on the eastern fringe of central Hamburg.. divide the Alster into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster). to 9 p. to 6 hamburg. the A23 from the northwest. Hamburg’s most vital artery and shopping district. Finding information Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg operates the tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300. and can book a hotel room for you for a 4€ ($5) fee.m.

80€ ($7. The Altona neighborhood is a great place to explore or have dinner. A single one-way fare for both U-Bahn and bus costs 2. To see everything of interest. The St. Buy your ticket from the bus driver or from automatic vending machines at U-Bahn stations and bus stops. com) operates the U-Bahn (subway).25) for an adult and includes fare for up to three children traveling with an adult. the world’s seventh-largest harbor. Taxi meters begin at 2€ ($2. now integrated into Greater Hamburg. The Port (Hafen) of Hamburg. The U-Bahn is the fastest means of getting around. formerly a city in its own right. A one-day card costs 7.180 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Alster to the Elbe. a famous neon-lit boulevard with cafes.hvv. call % 040/441-011 or 040/666-666.90) per kilometer.55€ ($1. but buses offer a good alternative and enable you to see more of the city. is located northwest of the river. % 040/19449. sex shows. is the scene of Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market). guided tours of the port. Hamburger Verkehrsverbund (HVV. S-Bahn (light rail). The fare. A three-day card costs 17€ ($22) for one adult and up to three children. bars. bisects St. and harbor ferries. Pauli. You can buy the card at the tourist information offices (see “Finding information. Getting around Hamburg Hamburg is not a compact city and can’t be easily covered on foot. and lake cruises. south of Central Hamburg and the Alster.” earlier in this chapter). the old sailor’s quarter that became the center of Hamburg nightlife. Taxis For a taxi. www.80€ ($9. Pauli district. which takes place at dawn every Sunday. The U-Bahn (subway) and buses Hamburg’s U-Bahn serves the entire central area and connects with the S-Bahn light-rail trains in the suburbs. admission to 11 Hamburg museums. and discounts on city tours. A tageskarte (day ticket) for unlimited use of public transportation costs 5. discos. you have to depend on public transportation or taxis. stretches for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River. which is the same for both U-Bahn and bus. depends on how far you travel. The western district of Altona. The HamburgCard is good for travel on all public transport. buses. The Reeperbahn. Many of Hamburg’s finest hotels and restaurants cluster around the Binnenalster and the Rathaus (City Hall). a short distance to the south.75) for one adult and up to three children under 15. . and music halls.50) and rise 1.50€ ($3) within Greater Hamburg. A-Bahn (commuter rail).

and Lübeck Bergedorf Buxtehude Stade Holstenstr. Pauli Landungsbrücken Messehallen Gän. Hasselbrook Ritterstr. Berliner Tor Mittierer Landweg Allermöhe Netteinburg Wohltorf Reinbek Aumühle S21 Schwerin Berlin Single track section AKN Line DB Line Chapter 13: Hamburg. Sülldorf Hochkamp Diebsteich Othmarschen S1 Blankenese Klein Flottbek Bahrenfeld S-Bahn U-Bahn Hudtwaickerstr. Bilstedt Steinfurther Allee Rothenburgsort Mümmelmannsberg U3 Tiefstack Veddel Bilwerder-Moorfleet Wilhelmsberg Lübecker Str.Neumünster Ulzberg Süd Ulzburg Süd A2 Richtweg U1 Ohlstedt Lübeck Garstedt Ochsenzoll Hoisbüttel Buckhorn Langenhorn Nord Langenhorn Markt U2 Fuhlsbüttel Nord Hohenneichen Kornweg Berne Ohlsdorf Sengelmannstr. Saarlandstr. Landwehr Hammerkirche Horner Rennbahn Bergstr. Bremen. Barmbek Wandsbeck Ost Alter Teichweg Eppendorfer Baum Borgweg U3 Friedrichsberg HoheDehnhaide Straßburger Straße Klosterstern luttHamburger Str. Messberg 181 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn S3 Neuwiedenthal . Jungfernstieg Rödingsmarkt Rathaus Neugraben Heimfeld Harburg Rathaus Harburg Bremen Hanover Hammerbrook Hauptbahnhof Steinstr. Sta. Wandsbek Markt brucke Hallerstr. Alsterdorf Lattenkamp U2 Alte Wöhr Habichtstr. Trabrennbahn Rübenkamp Farmsen Rahlstedt Fuhlsbüttel Klein Borstel Meinendorfer Weg Wellingsbüttel S1 Poppenbüttel Buchenkamp Volksdorf Ahrensburg West Ahrensburg Ahrensburg Ost. Langenfelde Osterstr. Altona Sternschanze Feidstraße Königstr. Rauhes Haus Markenstr. Baumwall Dammtor Step. Mön. Christuskirche Lutterothstr. Großhansdorf Schmalenbeck Kiekut Kiwittsmoor U1 Norderstedt Mitte A1 Hasioh Bönningstedt Elmshorn Niendorf Nord Schippelsweg Burgwedel S3 Pinneberg Schnelsen Thesdorf Joachim-Mähl-Str. Wartenau Lohmühlenstr. Reeperbahn St. Mundsburg Wandsbeker Chaussee Schlump Wandsbek Uhlandstr. Halstenbek Krupunder S21 Hagensbeck Tierpark Niendorf Markt Eidelstedt Ost Hagendeel Elbgaustraße A1 Eidelstedt Stellingen Wedel Rissen Iserbrook Emilienstr. Legienstr. Wandsbek-Gartenstedt Kellinghusenstr. Sierichstr.

a fashionable area filled with boutiques. the hotel features an array of business-oriented in-room amenities. well-regarded restaurant. and AE. Fax: 040/3505-1777. MC. or 040/ 35050. Rates include breakfast. plus an intimate. The rooms vary . DC. You find an onsite sauna and solarium. Hamburg’s tourist information office in the main train station can help you find accommodations (see “Finding information. The building was restored and converted into a hotel in 1979. 176. Fax: 040/2803231. The 227 rooms are priced according to size and degree of luxury. originally built in the mid 19th century as a home for sailors. MC. www. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk south on ABC Strasse). shops. Rates: 129€–155€ ($161–$194) double. AE. 176. which becomes Schmilinskystrasse). Pauli/Harbor area This Hamburg landmark. Geared toward business travelers. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk east on Steindamm and west on Stiftstrasse. especially in the center of the city. See map p. 20099 Hamburg.aussen-alster. You will usually find special weekend rates and promotional offers on the hotel Web site. V. V. stylish hotel in a late-19th-century building sits on a quiet residential street near the Aussenalster lake. 20354 Hamburg. The hotel has a fitness center with pool and sauna and can arrange baby-sitting. % 800/228-9290 in the U. ABC Strasse 52. Aussen Alster $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This small. % 040/241-557. Schmilinskystrasse 11.182 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Staying in Hamburg Hamburg is an expensive city with plenty of first-class hotels and a limited number of budget accommodations. The well-done bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. The 27 midsize rooms are minimalist in terms of décor but very comfortable and meticulously maintained. The hotel can arrange baby-sitting. Rates include buffet breakfast. The bathrooms are small with shower-tub combinations. traditionally styled hotel is near the Hanse Viertel. the Schmilinsky. wine bars.S. If you arrive without a room. Hamburg Marriott $$$$ Central Hamburg This large. You also find hotel-booking desks at the airport. DC. offers rooms with panoramic views of the river and harbor. Hotel Hafen Hamburg $ –$$$ St. See Chapter 22 for details on the Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ($$$$). See map p. and today consists of three adjacent buildings with a total of 255 rooms. Rates: 199€–279€ ($248–$349)” earlier in this chapter).

The third and fourth floors are nonsmoking. all have wellequipped bathrooms with a shower-tub combination. Fax: 40/3099-9399. and a fine-dining restaurant called Apples (see “Dining in Hamburg. Amenities include a health club with pool. MC. www. but most are large with updated modern furnishings. AE. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). Bugenhagenstrasse 8. traditional. Fax: 040/31113755. 20354 Hamburg. This full-service hotel has virtually every amenity you can imagine. 176. A terrace on the eighth floor opens onto panoramic views of Hamburg. DC. Breakfast: 18€ ($22). DC. was built in The large bathrooms have a separate area for Japanese-style soaking tubs. AE. Rates: 190€–265€ ($237–$295). Rates: 100€–200€ ($125–$250) double. Pension Helga Schmidt $ Central Hamburg This small.” later in this chapter). But the double rooms are of a decent size and have an old-fashioned comfort of their own. A stark white and steel high-tech minimalism is offset by dramatic. Hotel Side $$$$ Central Hamburg Opened in the spring of 2001. % 040/311-130.side-hamburg.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Park Hyatt Hamburg $$$$ Central Hamburg One of the most beautifully designed hotels in Hamburg. 20459 Hamburg. the Hafen’s modern sister hotel. MC.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (then a 7minute walk north through the small park outside the station to Seewartenstrasse). The luxurious bathrooms have a tub-shower combination. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Dammtorstrasse and west on Drehbahn). You may find a bit of V. DC. Fax: 40/ 3332-1235. % 040/3332-1234. Breakfast: 13€ ($16). 17-room pension sits right across the street from the superdeluxe Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg (Chapter 22) and costs a fraction of the price. the 178 good-sized rooms are quiet and comfortable. 176. glowing colors and contemporary furniture placed as carefully as sculptures. the Hyatt occupies a former trading house from 1912 that was transformed into a hotel in 1998. AE. Drehbahn 49. 20095 Hamburg. % 40/309-990. Lots of wood and warm-toned fabrics adorn the 252 spacious rooms. V. Bremen. The neighboring ship-shaped Hotel Residenz. You won’t find anything fancy MC. See map p. Breakfast: 22€ ($27). See map p. Seewartenstrasse 9. and Lübeck 183 in size. Hotel Side takes high design to new heights. 176. V. Some rooms have private bathrooms with showers. others have showers . the largest pool in Hamburg. U-/S-Bahn: St. See map p. Built around a central atrium. Rates: 209€–310€ ($261–$387) double. but staying here is definitely a memorable experience.

m. Rate includes breakfast. Rates: 58€ ($72) double without bathroom. onions. blue. Bugenhagenstrasse 8.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). 176. fixedprice menu 50€ ($62). On the menus of the city’s many fish restaurants. V. and pickle — which is a hearty. Apples Restaurant $$$ –$$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL Centered around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven.t-online.m. MC. They range in size from small to medium and are individually decorated with modern furnishings. Rates: 108€–165€ ($135–$206) double. Tuscan-style garden. DC. 20099 Hamburg. AE. Dining in Hamburg It shouldn’t come as any surprise that most of Hamburg’s traditional cuisine comes from the sea. is a famous Hamburg dish). potatoes. Come here for an elegant evening out. sole. you usually find lobster. The place is hip without being pretentious. Pancakes (Pfannkuchen) with cranberries or other fruit toppings are popular. 176. AE.wedina. salmon. shrimp. saddle of pork. Reservations required. Fax: 040/243-705. is a compote of red fruits served with vanilla ice cream or cream. you can enjoy breakfast in the privacy of your room. See map p. V. you may find grilled lobster. DC. Appetizers may include ostrich carpaccio or red curry soup. Gurlittstrasse 23. 176. or oven-roasted duck. Traditional meat dishes include Stubenküchen (hamburger steak) and Labskaus — made with beer. The menu. and yellow). In the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Apples is the showcase restaurant of the Park Hyatt Hamburg. AE. and eel (Aalsuppe. which changes according to seasonal availability. .184 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany only and you share a bathroom. The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. protein-packed dish that sailors and dockworkers order. char-grilled turbot and peppers. 20099 Hamburg. % 040/33321234. % 040/280-8900. corned beef. and 6–11 p. or eel soup. turbot. See map p. features fresh. organically grown produce. 68€ ($85) double with bathroom. Fresh specials of the day also are available. MC. The smallish bathrooms have a shower-tub combination. fresh oysters. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north along Koppel Strasse to Gurlittstrasse). you have to climb 55 steps. See map p. Rote Grütze. % 040/280-83-90. DC. V. herring. Holzdamm 14. a local dessert specialty. In the morning. Fax: 040/280-3894. and to reach rooms on the third floor. Open: Daily 6:30 a. Rates include buffet breakfast. www. As a main course.–2:30 p. plaice. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north on Holzdamm). Most of the 42 rooms open onto a small. Wedina $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This recently remodeled hotel is in three different buildings painted three different colors (red. Main courses: 23€–31€ ($29–$39).

southern France. V.50€–9€ ($4. See map p. Typical offerings include goulash with noodles. . you can see the Nikolaifleet canal from the windows. For breakfast. salmon.m. traditional versions of North German cuisine. Cremon 33–34. Die Rösterei $ Central Hamburg LIGHT MEALS/BREAKFAST/DESSERTS Located in the shopping arcade attached to the Park Hyatt hotel.m.50) per dish. Main courses: 8€–26€ ($10–$32). Bremen. No credit cards. homemade pastas. See map p.Chapter 13: Hamburg. jacket potatoes with sour cream and crab or other fillings. sausages. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. includes specialties from Thailand. % 040/3904-606. You can eat on the balcony overlooking the shops or in the wood-paneled dining room.m. cold cuts.–9 p. you can order eggs. % 040/3039-3735. and saltimbocca. and the service is no-nonsense. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and northwest on Bahrenstrasse. which becomes Friedensallee).m.m. to midnight. and bread and butter.–10 p. See map p. The cafe roasts its own coffee beans. Main courses: 9€–12€ ($11–15). Popular offerings include breast of duck with caramelized cherries. 176. so you can get a cappuccino with your afternoon Kuchen (cake). Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. Japan (including sushi and sashimi). No credit cards. fixed-price dinner 26€ ($32). housed in a former tram station. and 6 p. The food is robust. 176.m. and the Cremonteller. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 10-minute walk east on Kajen and north on Cremons). a cold buffet is available in the evening. a light lunch. and Italy. Luncheon offerings usually include chicken and fish dishes plus daily specials and several different salads. this casual cafe is a good place to stop for breakfast.m.–9 p. From the below-street-level location. Breakfast: 3. and Lübeck Cremon Weinkeller $ Harbor area NORTH GERMAN 185 If you want to eat lunch with the locals. Reservations recommended. cheese.25–$9. Sun 10 a.50€ ($6. with a minimum of fuss. % 040/362-190. a platter with crab. MC. fixedprice lunch 14€ ($17). Fischküche Karin Brahm $$ –$$$ Harbor area SEAFOOD This pleasant fish restaurant in a modern building has a bright dining room and outdoor tables. Mönckebergstrasse 7. Main courses: 5€–7. 176. and fresh. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Mönckebergstrasse). Eisenstein $$ –$$$ Altona INTERNATIONAL The menu in this hip Altona restaurant. Open: Daily noon to 3 p. or afternoon coffee. and croissants. The restaurant serves four or five hot dishes of fish and meat buffet-style at lunchtime..40–$11). meat.m. particularly fresh Atlantic fish. Friedensallee 9. this barrestaurant is a good place to try.

Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. U-Bahn: Rathaus (then a 3-minute walk south on Grosse Johannisstrasse). Neuer Wall 31 (in the Neuen Alsterarkaden). changes daily. flounder with spaghetti and lemon-butter sauce. Le Paquebot $$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL In warm weather.186 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The menu changes all the time. Reservations recommended. See map p. you may try the avocado salad with herring or some crostini. 176. Choices may include different kinds of clear or creamy fish soup. you can sit outside on the square and enjoy a good meal at this quietly stylish restaurant and bar. Grosse Johannisstrasse 2.m. DC.m. wood-paneled columns. Open: Daily 8 a. vaulted ceilings.m. % 040/3750-3434. depending on the catch of the day. to midnight.. % 040/365-631. And the outside tables are great for people-watching. Reservations recommended. Main courses: 11€–15€ ($14–$18). a mixed fish platter. too. See map p. Kajen 12. AE. Sat 6 p. Try the halibut steak in curry sauce. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). % 040/364-153. Melange $ –$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL With tables tucked along the canal under the fancy shopping arcade that lines the Alsterfleet canal (across from the Rathaus). Italian and modern German. MC. Or. and large stained-glass windows. Ratsweinkeller Hamburg $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg HAMBURG/INTERNATIONAL In business since 1896. the fresh sole. MC. AE. zander filet with creamy sauerkraut. Open: Mon–Fri noon to midnight.m. step up to the herring buffet featuring many different condiments and sauces. the main courses are more than enough. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 70. and breast of chicken with basil and mushrooms. this cafe/bistro/bar is a chic but casual spot to stop for lunch or an early dinner (you can eat inside. the Ratsweinkeller Hamburg has high. UBahn: Jungfernstieg (then a 5-minute walk north along Neuer Wall to Schleuseenbrücke).–6 p. AE. or the Hamburg crab soup. If you don’t like fish. Main courses typically include pasta offerings such as tagliatelle with ragout. See map p. (Indoor dining is available yearround. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 3-minute walk west to Kajen).–2 a. an international mix of French. or codfish with potatoes and onion. V. V.–2 a. Sun 5:30 p. . % 040/326-519.m. See map p. MC. Most of the young wait staff speak English. I like it because you can order something as simple as a salad but they also have good daily specials. 176. herring filets on black bread with onions. 176.) The menu.m. 176. For starters. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk across Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz). you can choose from other dishes such as chicken breast in a green rice crust or turkey curry. Don’t bother with appetizers. Main courses: 17€–25€ ($21–$31).m. V. but on a nice day nab a table outside).

V. Sun 11 a. inner lake with canals running south to the Elbe. a larger body of water ringed by fine villas. The city still commemorates the event every year in early May with three days of huge harborside celebrations.m. Its official history dates back to 1189. Meat and fish dishes typically include entrecôte (boned rib steak) with mustard sauce. and the Aussenalster. Walking paths and parkland surround the 7km (4 miles) of shoreline. The menu borrows from French. AE. Alsterpark. Italian. a smaller. excursion ferries. rabbit with sweet-and-sour sauce. The Alster consists of the Binnenalster. S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and north on Bahrenstrasse.–1 a. which covers 175 acres on the northwest banks. and Lübeck 187 Main courses: 11€–31€ ($14–$39). Open: Daily 6 p. The dining room is a high-ceilinged brick-walled room with big windows and a bistrolike atmosphere. You also find many different salad choices.m.. % 040/397-004. . windsurfers. 176.Chapter 13: Hamburg. and hundreds of booths. including a windjammer parade. See map p. Bremen. features beautiful trees. Sightseeing usually centers on the giant harbor and picturesque Alster Lake. flower gardens. Alster Lake Sailboats.m. 176.m. scampi. with coq au vin and spaghetti with mushroom sauce available every day. fixed-price menus 30€–45€ ($37–$56). which becomes Friedensallee). No credit cards. See map p. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. Hafen (Harbor) Hamburg is probably most famous for its busy harbor. and German cuisine. Damming the meandering Alster River created the lake in 1235.–10:30 p. Main courses: 9€–14€ ($11–$17). Voltaire also has a good wine list and live jazz on most evenings. one of the largest in the world. and panoramic views of the Hamburg skyline. when the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa issued an edict granting free-trading privileges to Hamburg. wild duck with plum sauce. Hamburg is not a city with many world-class cultural attractions. Exploring Hamburg Surprisingly enough. MC. fireworks. U-Bahn: Hallerstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Hallerstrasse to the park).m. and canoes ply the waters of this lake that forms the watery heart of central Hamburg. Closed holidays. Friedensalle 14–16. Voltaire Bistro $$ Altona INTERNATIONAL This pleasant. DC.–4 p. reasonably priced restaurant is across from Eisenstein (see the listing earlier in this section) in the popular Altona area.m. and herring.

Max Beckmann. offers daily 50-minute trips that depart about every half-hour. and 1:30 and 3 p. Tourist activity centers around the St. from November through March.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken. to 6 p.75) for adults.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken. now a museum of maritime history. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. Docked just east of the landing stage at Pier 1 is the Rickmer Rickmers (% 040/319-5959). See map p. Excursion boats operated by Rainer Abicht (% 040/3178220. from 10 a. and Canaletto. The harbor is an open tidal port. noon. . where the Elbe splits into two arms. including works by Philipp Otto Runge and Caspar David Friedrich.50) for children. 6€ ($7.m. The cost for the tour is 10€ ($13) for adults and 5€ ($6.m.m. tours depart daily at 10:30 a.m. from November through March..m.25) for children younger than 16. a long. In the Alte Meister (Old Masters) galleries. Tours depart from April through October daily every hour from 10 a. The best way to see the port and all its activity is by taking a guided harbor tour. Saturday and Sunday only from 10:30 a.abicht. a 19th-century clipper ship.alstertouristik. Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum) Northern Germany’s leading art museum displays works in four different areas. 2. Ernst Kirchner. The 75-minute trip costs 10€ ($13) for adults. Dazzling works by late-19th.10) for children ages 4 to 12. to 6 p.. ATG-AlsterTouristik. to 5:30 p. Just southeast of Hamburg.m.m. A brochure and cassettes with a description of the tour in English are available at no additional cost. www. Allow yourself at least two hours to see everything on view. you find works by Meister Bertram. to 4 p. floating landing stage where you can embark on boat tours of the leave from St. The same company offers boat tours of Hamburg’s canals and along the Elbe.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (the harbor is right across the street). U-Bahn: St. warehouses. and drydocks. in which the North Sea tides influence the water level of the Elbe River. April through October. 176.m. Piers 1 through 9. Emil Nolde.m.50€ ($ 3. Rubens.and early-20th-century artists Edvard Munch. Claude Lorrain. www. there is a giant network of quays. This former East Indies windjammer is open daily from 10 a. The 19th Century galleries display an outstanding collection of German Romantic paintings. The ships leave from the Jungfernstieg quayside (U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg).188 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Seeing the Alster by boat You can tour both inner (Binnen) and outer (Ausser) Alster by boat.. The Galerie der Gegenwart (Contemporary At Gallery) displays art created since 1960. and Paul Klee are found in the Klassische Moderne (Modern Art) rooms.m. Am Anleger Jungfernstieg (% 040/357-4240. de).

built in the late 19th century on a foundation of oak pilings. Sun 10 a.hamburgerkunsthalle.hamburgmuseum. The Rathaus’s 49m-tall (160-ft. and boutiques. See map p.m.m. across the canal. 176. The Alsterarkaden.50€ ($11) adults. To use the service.m. the city’s largest canal. 0. is the largest of the old buildings in the Altstadt.). The museum’s office of historical emigration contains passenger lists of all the people who shipped out of Hamburg from the 1850s to about 1930. Admission: 7.m.–1:15 p.Chapter 13: Hamburg. On record are hundreds of thousands of emigrants’ names including the names of the cities and towns in which they originated. 176 Holstenwall 24. www. % 040/4281-32-2380. Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (Hamburg History Museum) This museum provides a portrait of Hamburg from the 8th through 20th centuries. See map p. Tours (in English): Mon–Thurs hourly 10:15 a.m. % 040/4283-12063. www. .–5 is an arched passageway with upscale clothing shops. Bremen. 5€ ($6.m. and reconstructed period rooms — from the hall of a 17th-century merchant’s house to an air-raid shelter from WWII — illustrate the different eras in Hamburg’s history. Guides conduct free tours of the Börse on Tuesday and Thursday at 11 a.m. % 040/428-131-200. and Lübeck 189 See map p. U-Bahn: St. Fri–Sun hourly 10:15 a.. You can combine a visit to the Rathaus with a stop at the 16th-century Börse (Stock Exchange). 176. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Pauli (then a 2-minute walk east across Millentordamm). which stands back to back with the Rathaus.50 (65¢) children. Rathaus (Town Hall) Hamburg’s and noon.25) adults.50) adults. U-Bahn: Rathaus. Open: Tues–Sat 10 a. (Thurs until 9 p. you need to bring records with you that indicate the approximate date that your ancestors left Germany. Rathausplatz. jewelry stores. Admission: Rathaus tour 1€ ($1.–3:15 p. Scale models show the changing face of the port.m.–6 p. Glockengiesserwall 1. then a 2minute walk north on An der Kunsthalle).m. Tracing your German ancestry The Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (see the listing above) is especially worth a visit if you have German ancestors and want to do genealogical research. Admission: 8.–6 p.25) children.m. free for children under 18. You can visit the interior of this Renaissance-style structure with its 647 rooms on a guided tour. Adolphsplatz 1 (% 040/3613020). Give yourself about an hour to browse through the exhibits. Tours of the Rathaus and the Börse last about 30 to 45 minutes. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (exit at Hauptbahnhof Nord.50€ ($9.) clock tower overlooks Rathausmarkt and the Alsterfleet.m..m.

A restaurant serves fixed-price meals for 9. takes place every Sunday from 5 a. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke (then a 10-minute walk west on Michaelisstrasse). in addition to one of Hamburg’s musical treasures.m. completed in 1762. 176. The crypt. Admission: 15€ ($18) adults. elephant and camel rides. vegetables.25€ ($1. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. between Hexenberg and Grosse Elbstrasse (U-Bahn: St. a master craftsman whose instruments were played by Johann Sebastian Bach. fruit.60) children. www. 176. children younger than 3 free. Michaeliskirchplatz.m.50€ ($3. Open: Daily 9 a.–6 p. Jacobikirche (St.50€ to 14€ ($ 12–$ 17) from 11:30 a. Open: Daily Apr–Sept 9 a. 176.m.m. Krayenkamp 4C. Take the elevator or climb the 449 steps to enjoy the sweeping view from the top.m. % 040/540-0010. The tower.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken). Jakobikirchhof 22. St.10) adults. . See map p.. 1. Jacobikirche. Michael’s Church) Constructed of brick. and sculptures. like so many other buildings in Hamburg. you can buy flowers. Admission: Church free. Give yourself about 15 minutes to visit the church and tower. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Jakobikirchhof). Oct–Mar 10 a. a baroque organ built in 1693 by Arp Schnitger.m. and pets at this traditional market. % 040/3767-8100. St. James’s is one of only two surviving Schnitger organs in Germany. (until 4:30 p. U-Bahn: Hagenbeck’s Tierpark. is one of the finest baroque churches in northern Germany. One block to the south of the church are the Krameramtswohnungen.–5 p. 8. Besides fish. Admission: Free.50€ ($11) children ages 4 to 16. Hamburg’s last remaining 17th-century brick-and-timber almshouses.500 animals. See map p.m. This zoo in the northwest suburbs offers sea-lion and dolphin shows. tower 2. de.. The nearby taverns are open to serve Fischmarkt visitors and vendors. is a famous Hamburg landmark and the principal reason to visit. pictures. % 040/327-744. and a spacious children’s playground. which have been made into art galleries. Hagenbeckallee at Steilingen. Hamburg’s zoo is home to about 2. The 60-register organ at St. Michaelis (St. The rebuilt church contains several medieval altars.m.hagenbeck. James’s Church) WWII bombings almost completely destroyed the 13th-century Gothic St.m. Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Founded in 1848.190 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany St. in winter). a train ride through a fairyland. the rest of the year.m.–5 p. to closing.–5 p. contains the tomb of composer Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach. plants.m. The famous Hamburg Fischmarkt The Hamburg Fischmarkt (fish market). in summer or from 7 a. See map p. in existence since 1703.m. one of the largest in Europe. with its hammered-copper roof. to noon. Sun 10 a. Michael’s.m. entrance on Steinstrasse.

These streets contain some of the city’s less expensive stores. but don’t expect to find many bargains. carries more-fashionable merchandise. Living it up after dark in Hamburg To find out what’s happening in Hamburg. and Lübeck Wallringpark 191 Four beautifully maintained parks and gardens comprise this greenbelt area west of the Altstadt and Alster Lake. or through the service Theaterkasse Central. laid out in 1936.m. including a rollerskating rink. is known for its rare plant specimens and greenhouses filled with tropical flora. which offers better deals on merchandise markdowns. contains the largest Japanese garden in Europe. run parallel to the canals. You can buy tickets at venue box offices. flowering plants. miniature trees. on langer Samstag. at tourist offices. www. From the Hauptbahnhof. Grosse Bleichen and Neuer Wall.m. 176. two major shopping streets fan out in a southwesterly direction toward the Rathaus: the pedestrian-only Spitalerstrasse and Mönckebergstrasse.m. hotels. one of the world’s leading opera houses. is the home of the . Landesbank-Galerie (% 040/337-124. The Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden). pick up a copy of the monthly Hamburger U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse). and newsstands. available at tourist offices. connected transversely by Jungfernstieg and Ufer Strasse on the Binnenalster. with rock gardens. Mönckebergstrasse 16 (% 040/30940). and winding pathways. Bremen. Shopping in Hamburg Hamburg is a big shopping city. The performing arts Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). to 6:30 p.m. Mönckebergstrasse 3 (% 040/333-070). Two of the city’s oldest and most prestigious shopping streets. Alsterhaus. and an ice-skating rink in winter. The Kleine (small) and Grosse (large) Wallanlagen parks contain many recreational facilities. or any kind of local specialty or handicraft. Less expensive is Kaufhof. on Thursday) and on Saturday from 9 a. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 48. S-Bahn: Dammtor). See map p. (some until 8 p. Jungfernstieg 22 (% 040/359-011).Chapter 13: Hamburg. U-Bahn: Dammtor (the station is at the southeastern corner of the park). (until 4 or 6 p. Stores are generally open Monday through Friday from 9 a. A miniature railway connects all four parks. Dammtorstrasse 28 (% 040/35-68-68. the first Sat of the month). south of Planten and Blomen. is part of a departmentstore chain that carries many of the same brands and items as the other leading department stores. Admission: Free. to 2 p.m. Planten und Blomen (Plants and Flowers). restaurants.hamburgische-staatsoper.m. playgrounds. Karstadt.

S. Today this cultural institution is a free-for-all venue with acts that change nightly. to 5 a. U-Bahn: Mundsburg). is one of the most popular places in the St.192 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg State Opera and the Hamburg Ballet. Alter Steinweg 10 (% 040/343-878.englishtheatre. Cover is 5€ to 9€ ($6. The club is open from 11 p. is one of the hottest dance clubs in Hamburg. and the NDR Symphony. Spielbudenplatz 5 (% 040/31-08-45. and music scenes Hamburg is famous for its nightlife. features funk. Hamburg has dozens of theaters. from September to April. Ticket prices range from 5€ to 146€ ($6. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). plays host to concerts by the Hamburg Symphony.m.m. to midnight. nightclubs. features jazz and Dixieland bands from throughout Europe and the U. is where The Beatles performed in their earliest days. ߜ Bayrisch Zell. Johannes-Brahms-Platz (% 040/35-68-68. the oldest and best established of the Hamburg jazz clubs. Cover charge is 4€ to 15€ ($5–$19). The food is okay.25–$182). a giant beer hall. the Hamburg Philharmonic. and to 6 a. beer halls. it’s also open Sunday from 11 a.m. Cover is 2€ to 14€ ($2. The hall is open daily from 7 p.m. Pauli district. Thursday to Sunday and has no set closing time. Thursday. The Musikhalle. Tickets range from 7€ to 25€ ($8. with meals ranging from 5€ to 15€ ($6. Spielbudenplatz 7 (% 040/319-3215. Lerchenfeld 14 (% 040/227-7089.m. depending on the band. Pauli.50–$17). bar. to 3 a. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). U-Bahn: Messehallen). www. the only English-speaking theater in the northern part of Germany. The club is open year-round Monday through Saturday from 8 p.m. free admission for women Friday and Saturday after midnight.m. jazz. 30-year-olds. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). and live-music venues: ߜ After Shave.75–$31). Ticket prices vary from program to program. The ticket office is at Grosstheaterstrasse 34.25–$31). S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). Grosse Freiheit 36 (% 040/317-7711. and fusion.m. in St. chamber orchestras. a dance club for 20. ߜ Cotton Club. If someone catches your S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke). . Cover is 5€ to 25€ ($6. but you need to understand German to enjoy the productions. especially if you’re into funk. Wednesday and Sunday and at 11 p. to 3 p.m. to 4 a.m. Saturday.25–$11). too. attracting singles and couples young and old. Friday. ߜ Molotow. in addition to performances by choirs.m. One exception is the English Theatre of Hamburg. you can call him or her from the phone on your table. dance clubs. The club. The club opens at 9 p. The following list gives a small sampling of bars. and guest artists. ߜ Club Grosse Freiheit. Reeperbahn 10 (% 040/314-281.25–$19).

Friday and Saturday from 10 a. . Pauli and the Reeperbahn: For adults only Commercialized sex is a major tourist attraction in Hamburg. The most famous street besides the Reeperbahn itself is Herbertstrasse. The museum is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a. discos. Gay and lesbian clubs Hamburg. Nobistor 10A (% 040/3178-4126). the museum presents its displays and changing exhibits in a way that’s both academic and titillating. Between midnight and 5 a. Led by a professional guide dressed as a 19th-century Hamburg prostitute (the costume is not what you’d call sexy). Grosse Freiheit. which includes a glass of schnapps at tour’s end. distributed at most gay and lesbian bars. who set up shop with the legal sanction of municipal authorities. The free magazine Dorn Rosa.m. where bordellos line both sides of the street. Please note that women are not welcome on Herbertstrasse. Pauli’s streets. admission is 8€ ($10). and the women display themselves behind plate-glass windows. Many of the prostitutes who work there today are licensed and must submit to a medical examination every two weeks. and you do find all kinds of theaters (mostly for musicals and comedies). Pauli district. Bremen. By the mid-1800s. The area is not exclusively devoted to sex. a street whose name appropriately translates as “Great Freedom. Municipal regulations forbid prostitution. The name literally translates as “Rope Street” and refers to the nautical rope produced there during the 18th and 19th centuries.m. Herbertstrasse is open only to men older than 18.” is known for its erotic theaters. bars. St. restaurants. bars. and restaurants (although I don’’t recommend dining in this area). thousands of “working girls” strut their stuff along the Reeperbahn and through St. called Hafen und Huren (Harbors and Whores). which is close to Hamburg’s great harbor. The district also contains the Erotic Art Museum. and Lübeck 193 St. Open to those older than 16. and events.m. had become a hangout for sailors and prostitutes. cabarets. You must reserve in advance. Historical Whores Tours (% 01805/125-225. inside erotic theaters.m. at the corner of Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit. just west of the center. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). The place where it all hangs out is the St. or overt solicitation. bars. The district’s sexrelated bars and theaters are up and running by 8 p.m. like Berlin. cost is 20€ ($25) per person. and may even be doused with a bucket of water if they enter. is one of the major gay centers of Europe.Chapter 13: Hamburg. with a dense concentration of gay shops. along a half-mile thoroughfare called the Reeperbahn (pronounced ray-per-bahn. metal gates block each end of the street...hurentours. lists the city’s many gay and lesbian clubs. Pauli is a place to visit at night. the 90-minute walking tour takes you to various places around the harbor and tells the whore’s side of the story. www. and cafes along Lange Reihe just northeast of the train station (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Pauli. to midnight. to 2 offers one of the world’s more unusual walking tours. St.

194 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
A Side Trip: Bremen
Bremen, 120km (75 miles) southwest of Hamburg, has a history that dates back some 1,200 years. (See the “Bremen” map in this chapter.) Located on the Weser River, which flows to the North Sea, it already was a significant port when it was made an Episcopal see in 787. During the Middle Ages, Bremen was one of the strongest members of the Hanseatic League, and in 1646, it became a Free Imperial City. Silting of the Weser led to the establishment of Bremerhaven, Bremen’s deepwater port at the mouth of the Weser, in 1827. With a population of about half a million people, Bremen is the second-most important foreign trade location in the Federal Republic, after Hamburg. Although it’s mostly an industrial city that was badly damaged in WWII, enough remains in old Bremen to make for an intriguing daytrip from Hamburg.

Getting to Bremen
By train, the trip time from Hamburg is less than an hour. For train information and schedules, call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). If you’re driving, Bremen is a major junction on the A1 Autobahn between Hamburg and the Rhineland. Bremen Flughafen (Airport; % 0421/55-950) has flights from major cities in Germany and Europe.

Finding information and taking a tour
Bremer-Touristik-Zentrale (% 01805/10-10-30; www.bremen-tourism. de) operates tourist information offices at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station; open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat–Sun 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.). A second branch at Obernstrasse/Liebfrauenkirchhof also is open Monday to Friday 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. If you decide to stay overnight in Bremen, this office will help you find a hotel or pension. Guided bus tours, conducted in German and English, depart Tuesday through Sunday year-round at 10:30 a.m. from the Central Coach Station (Rank M) just behind the tourist information office at the main train station. The tour lasts two hours and costs 15€ ($19) for adults and 9.50€ ($12) for children younger than 13. Guided walking tours, with Englishspeaking guides, depart daily at 2 p.m. from mid-May to early October, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. in January and February, from the tourist information office at the main train station. They last two hours, and cost 6.50€ ($8), free for children younger than 13. Buy your tickets at the tourist office.

Dining in Bremen
The Ratskeller below Bremen’s Rathaus, Am Markt (% 0421/32-16-76), is a wonderfully atmospheric place to try North German regional specialties such as Bremer Festtagsuppe (a beef consommé with meatballs, noodles, and vegetables), Bremer Fischtopf (diced salmon, haddock, and red snapper in a vegetable stock), herring with sour cream and roasted

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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potatoes, and Flammkuchen, a pizzalike dish with mushrooms, herbs, and cheese. This is also a good place to try a Probierportion (sample portion) of Labkaus, a delicious corned-beef hash mixed with pickled herring, topped with a fried egg, and served with dill pickles and beets. The adjoining restaurant, Vor dem Bacchus, serves fresh fish. Main courses go for 10€ to 22€ ($13–$27). The restaurants are open daily from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. See map above.




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196 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Exploring Bremen
Bremen’s main sights are in the Altstadt, clustered around Marktplatz (Market Square), the center of Bremen life for more than a millennium. Most of the compact oval Altstadt, with the Weser River along the south side and the Stadtgraben canal on the north, is a pedestrian zone and can easily be explored on foot. Recent restoration work has brightened up the center and its many historic buildings. From Bahnhofsplatz in front of the train station, head south to Herdentor and the bridge that crosses the Stadtgraben canal. To your right, in the Wallanlagen, the pretty parkland along the canal (formerly the city wall stood here), you’ll see a large Dutch-style windmill. At one time, more than a dozen windmills operated in this area. At the beginning of Sögestrasse (Sow Street), a bronze swineherd and a herd of bronze sows and piglets commemorates the street where medieval butchers kept their pigs. A short walk south brings you to the Marktplatz, where a 15th-century sandstone statue of Knight Roland, the city’s protector, stands guard beside the Rathaus. Bremen’s impressive three-story Rathaus (Town Hall; % 0421/36-10) has been standing on the Marktplatz for 600 years and was untouched by the bombing raids of WWII. The main Gothic structure was built in 1405, but in 1612 the upper section of the facade was redone in what is known as Weser Renaissance style. (Weser Renaissance, a term applied to architecture created in and around the Weser River valley between 1520 and 1620, is characterized by ornate decoration on classically proportioned buildings.) Inside, the upper hall with its beautifully carved early-17thcentury oak staircase and mural of The Judgment of Solomon (1537), was used as council chamber and courtroom. You can visit the Rathaus on 45minute guided tours Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m., noon, 3 and 4 p.m., and on Sunday at 11 a.m. and noon. Admission is 4€ ($5) adults, 2€ ($2.50) children and students. You can dine in the historic Ratskeller beneath the building (see “Dining in Bremen,” earlier in this section). Walk around to the west end of the Rathaus to see Bremen’s most famous characters, the Bremen Town Musicians from the Grimm’s fairy tale of the same name. Local artist Gerhard Marcks created the bronze sculpture of a donkey, dog, cat, and cock in 1951.

Chocolate lovers take note
Hachez, a famous Bremen chocolatier founded in 1890, occupies a charming 18thcentury patrician house near the Rathaus. The shop, Stoevesandt-Diele, Am Markt 1 (% 0421/50-90-00), is a chocolate-lover’s emporium where you can find sweet specialties such as chocolate champagne truffles.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


Bells are ringing on Böttcher Street
Böttcherstrasse, running from Marktplatz to the Weser River, is one of the most architecturally intriguing streets in Germany and one of Bremen’s most noteworthy attractions. Ludwig Roselius, a rich Bremen merchant who invented decaffeinated coffee, paid for the construction of the redbrick buildings that line the street, which was dedicated in 1926 and rebuilt after World War II. Part of the narrow brick-paved street was built in an avant-garde German expressionist style; the other part was meant to look more traditionally medieval. The street is lined with shops, crafts workshops, restaurants, two museums, and galleries. Time your visit to hear the carillon of bells made of Meissen porcelain. Every hour between noon and 6 p.m. (Jan–Apr at noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m.), they play a tune for a full 15 minutes as a sequence of woodcarved panels in a revolving tower tells the story of transatlantic aviators.

Directly opposite the Rathaus stands the Schütting, a 16th-century guild hall today used by the chamber of commerce (not open to the public). Adding a modern architectural touch to the ancient square is the Haus der Bürgerschaft, constructed in 1966 and home of Bremen’s Parliament. Free 20-minute tours of the building are given Monday to Friday at 2 p.m. At the southeast end of the Marktplatz, towering majestically over the entire Altstadt, is St. Petri-Dom (St. Peter’s Cathedral), Sandstrasse 10–12 (% 0421/36-50-40), originally constructed in 1043 as the archbishop’s church and rebuilt in the 16th and 19th centuries. Other than the 12thcentury bronze baptismal font in one of the Romanesque crypts there is not much of exceptional interest within the cathedral, which is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday 2 to 5 p.m. From Easter through October you can climb to the top of the cathedral towers for a panoramic view of the Altstadt. The Dom Museum (Cathedral Museum; % 0421/365-04-41) displays artifacts discovered during a restoration of the cathedral in the early 1970s, including vestments found in archbishops’ graves and 15th-century wall paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder. More interesting than the museum is the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), reached by going outside and around to the side of the cathedral. It contains a bizarre collection of mummified corpses — 16th- and 17th-century lords, ladies, students, and soldiers, plus a cat and a monkey — whose leathery bodies were found in graves beneath and around the cathedral. Admission for the cathedral museum and the Lead Cellar is 1.50€ ($2) for adults, 1€ ($1.25) for students and children; both are open the same hours as the cathedral, but the Lead Cellar is closed November to Easter. The Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum, Böttcherstrasse 6–10 (% 0421/ 336-5077), is dedicated to Bremen’s outstanding painter (1876–1907) and contains many of her best works, including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

198 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Admission is 5€ ($6.25) for adults and 3€ ($3.75) for children. With the same ticket, you can visit the nearby Museum im Roselius Haus (same address, phone, and hours), a 16th-century merchant’s home filled with Ludwig Roselius’s collection of medieval art and furniture. Böttcherstrasse leads to the Schlachte embankment along the Weser River. The riverside promenade is lined with taverns and restaurants and is the locale of the Weserflohmarkt (Weser Flea Market), open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Schlachte embankment also is where you find guided boat trips (in German only) around the harbor. Boats depart from the landing in front of the Martinikirche (St. Martin’s Church) every day from April through October at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. on a voyage that lasts about 75 minutes. The cost is 8.50€ ($11) for adults and 4.50€ ($5.50) for children. A five-minute walk southeast from the Schlachte brings you to the charming albeit touristy Schnoor district, Bremen’s oldest surviving quarter. The 16th- and 17th-century cottages in the Schnoor once were the homes of simple fishermen. In an effort to revive old arts and crafts, they’re now rented to artists and artisans. Sightseers visit not only for the atmosphere but also for the unusual restaurants, shops, and art galleries.

Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own
Seven Gothic church spires rise above the picturesque town of Lübeck, located 66km (41 miles) northeast of Hamburg in the state of SchleswigHolstein. (See the “Lübeck” map in this chapter.) Along the ancient streets of its Altstadt, you find more buildings from the 13th to the 15th centuries than in any other city in northern Germany. Most of the buildings, including the churches, are fine examples of the redbrick architecture so characteristic of northern Germany. The city’s architectural heritage is so rich that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) placed Lübeck on its World Heritage list of international monuments. UNESCO bestows World Heritage status to places judged to have exceptional cultural and historic value. From the 13th century on, Lübeck was capital of the Hanseatic League, the powerful association of merchants that controlled trade along the Baltic as far as Russia. The town still retains the name Hansestadt Lübeck. Lübeck makes a rewarding daytrip from Hamburg, less than an hour away by train, but its charms may beguile you to stay overnight. With its enormous churches, high-gabled houses, massive gates, and historic buildings at every turn, Lübeck is a delightful city to explore.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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200 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Lübeck’s Nobel sons
Lübeck has had several famous sons, notably Thomas Mann and Willy Brandt. As a young man, Brandt (1913–1992), who later became West German chancellor and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971, opposed the Nazis so vehemently that he had to flee on a boat to Norway. The Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck at 21 Königstrasse is in the process of being restored and is expected to open in 2007. The writer Thomas Mann (1875– 1955) used his hometown of Lübeck as the setting for his novel Buddenbrooks, which catapulted the 27-year-old author to international fame in 1902. In 1929, Mann won the Nobel Prize for literature. The Buddenbrookhaus (described in “Walking through Lübeck,” in this chapter), which belonged to Mann’s grandparents, is a place of literary pilgrimage for fans of Mann. Günter Grass, author of The Tin Drum, won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1999. Although he was not born in Lübeck, he lives nearby. The relationship between Grass’s literary output and his artwork is explored in the permanent exhibits at the Günther Grass House, Glockengiesserstrasse 21 (% 0451/1224231;, which opened in 2002. Here you can see some of Grass’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures. Grass unleashed a torrent of criticism in 2006 when he revealed, in advance of the publication of his autobiography, that he had served in the Nazi Waffen SS at age 17; some critics suggested the Nobel Prize committee should revoke Grass’s prize. The museum is open daily April through October from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., November through March 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults, 2.20€ ($2.75) students and children.

Getting there
By train, you can reach Lübeck from anywhere in Germany or Europe. Dozens of trains arrive daily from Hamburg, only 40 minutes away. For train schedules and information, call German Rail (% 11861) or visit their Web site ( By boat, you can take a passenger or car ferry service between Denmark (the port of Rødbyhaven) and Lübeck (the port of Puttgarden). ScandLines (% 04371/865-161; offers daily departures. TT Saga Line (% 04502/80181; operates between the German port of Travemünde and the Swedish port of Trelleborg. By car, you can reach Lübeck via the A1 Autobahn north and south.

Finding information and taking a walking tour
In the train station, Touristinformation Hauptbahnhof (% 0451/864675) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m. The Lübeck und Travemünde Tourist Service Welcome Center, Holstentorplatz 1 (% 01805/882-233; 0.12€/15¢ per minute;, across from the Holstentor Museum, is open January through May and October through November, Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


3 p.m.; June through September and December, hours are Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. This office can help you with hotel reservations. Two-hour walking tours (6€/$7.50) of the historic city depart from the Holstentor tourist office Monday through Saturday at 2 p.m. (additional walks at 11 a.m. July–Sept) and on Sundays year-round at 11 a.m.

Orienting yourself
The Trave and Wakenitz rivers and other waterways encircle Lübeck’s Altstadt, an oval-shaped island a little more than a mile long and less than a mile wide. Eight bridges connect the old town with greater Lübeck on the mainland. Only about 12,000 residents (out of about 225,000) live on the island, which is where all the major attractions are located.

Getting around Lübeck
The Altstadt and all the major attractions can be reached on foot from the train station. You also can take buses 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, or 16 from the train station into the Altstadt. The fare is 2€ ($2.50). A fun and relaxing way to see Lübeck is by water. Excursion boats operated by MAAK-Linie (% 0451/706-3859; leave from docks on the Trave River just north of the Holstentor. In summer, departures are hourly between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (11 a.m.–4 p.m. the rest of the year). The trip (commentary in German with English text available) lasts one hour and encircles the entire Altstadt. Cost is 7€ ($8.75) for adults, 5.50€ ($7) for seniors, and 3€ ($3.75) for children.

Staying in Lübeck
Lübeck offers a full range of hotel options, from small inns and pensions to modern facilities. To enjoy the ancient, atmospheric charms of Lübeck, I recommend that you choose a hotel in the Altstadt. The Lübeck and Travemünde Tourist Service (see “Finding information and taking a walking tour” earlier in this chapter) also can help you find a room.

Special events in Lübeck
The Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival, one of the best music festivals in Germany, occurs in Lübeck (which has a famed music school) with performances from early July until the end of August every year. For more information, call % 0800/7463-2002 or log on to A popular Christmas market featuring handmade wares from all across northwestern Germany takes place during the three weeks preceding Christmas.

202 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Klassik Altstadt Hotel
$ –$$ Altstadt
If you want to stay in a smaller, older hotel in the Altstadt, Klassik Altstadt Hotel is a good choice. The 28 individually decorated rooms, all named for famous Lübeckers, have a pleasant, traditional style. Most of the bathrooms have showers; a few have tubs. The on-site restaurant is good and moderately priced. See map p. 199. Fischergrube 52, 23552 Lübeck. % 0451/702980. Fax: 0451/73778. Rates: 77€–130€ ($96–$162) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

Radisson SAS Senator Hotel Lübeck
$$$ Altstadt
If you want a modern, full-service hotel, the Radisson is the best place to stay. A pedestrian bridge connects the hotel from its riverside location to the Altstadt. The 231 medium-sized rooms are attractively furnished. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Amenities include an on-site health club with pool, sauna, and steam rooms, and a computer in the lobby that enables you to check your e-mail. Children up to age 12 stay for free in their parents’ room. See map p. 199. Willy-Brandt-Allee 6, 23554 Lübeck. % 800/333-3333 in the U.S. or 0451/1420. Fax: 0451/142-2222. Rates: 160€ ($200). AE, MC, V.

Dining in Lübeck
As you may have guessed, fresh seafood from the North and Baltic seas is featured on the menus of many restaurants in Lübeck. In this section are a few good restaurants where you can dine well in historic surroundings.

Historischer Weinkeller
$$ –$$$ Altstadt
The Historischer Weinkeller, located beneath the 13th-century HeiligenGeist-Hospital (see the “Walking through Lübeck” section next), is an excellent and atmospheric restaurant with an international menu. You can choose from several different fixed-priced menus, including a summertime “lübsche Gasterei” (Lübeck hospitality), a seven-course medieval feast. You may begin with smoked Norwegian salmon, gooseliver pâté, or a fishbased soup. Entrees range from filet of cod with sauerkraut and poached haddock in a mustard sauce to meat dishes and vegetarian choices. Note: This restaurant is divided into two sections, the Kartoffelkeller (potato cellar) and the Weinkeller (wine cellar); of the two, the Weinkeller is the more pleasant place to dine. See map p. 199. Koberg 8. % 0451/76234. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($18–$25). Fixedprice menu 25€–40€ ($31–$50). AE, MC, V. Open: Daily noon to midnight.

On the ground floor. As a starter.m. and 6–11 p. See map p. You also can get pasta dishes such as tagliatelle with fresh mushrooms or with salmon and lemon. Breitestrasse 98 (% 0451/53010). About one-fifth of the Altstadt was destroyed in a 1942 bombing. more modern dining room behind it. Try the crab soup.-km (2-sq. According to legend. 199. % 0451/76776. this historic restaurant is a good place to enjoy regional specialties. especially fish. An English-language menu is available to help guide your choices. or you can go upstairs to the pleasant cafe for dessert and coffee. a sweet almond paste.m. you can purchase bars and boxes of Marzipan to take away (an excellent gift idea). there’s a lighter. Schabbelhaus serves good Italian cuisine and some classic North German dishes. Schiffergesellschaft $$ –$$$ Altstadt A popular spot for tourists and locals alike. Main courses: 15€–23€ ($18–$29). Ristorante Roberto Rossi im Schabbelhaus $$ –$$$ Altstadt Occupying two elegant town houses on a lovely medieval street.Chapter 13: Hamburg. you sit at wooden tables lit by candlelight. Breite Strasse 2.000 medieval buildings still stand within a 5-sq. The service is attentive. In the front dining room. Then I’d recommend the fish plate. % 0451/72011. Reservations recommended. The fish here is excellent and recommended. MC. the wine list is excellent. V. stop in at Cafe Niederegger. V. and the tasting menus are good value for money. which comes with three different kinds of fish. but approximately 1.m. The atmospheric dining room overlooks a small garden. if available. Lübeckers ran out of flour during a long siege and started grinding almonds to make bread. located right across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806. Mengstrasse 48–52.m. to 6 p. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. surrounded by the Trave River and its canals. AE. followed by fresh fish from the Baltic Sea. all delicious. To sample Lübeck’s famous Marzipan. Niederegger’s is open daily from 9 a. order “herring three ways” on black bread. Open: Daily 10 a. and Lübeck 203 The sweet side of Lübeck Lübeck is the world capital of Marzipan. Main courses: 8€–25€ ($10– $31). and the staff is friendly and professional. dinner 39€–57€ ($49–$71). Walking through Lübeck Concentrate your sightseeing in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt.m. decorated with wooden ship models hanging from the ceiling. AE. MC. Bremen. fixed-price menus lunch 18€–22€ ($22–$27). They were so pleased with the sweet results that they’ve been making Marzipan ever since.-mile) area around the . 199. to midnight. See map p.

50€ ($2) for children and students. across the street from the Holstentor. the cost is 3€ ($3. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles.75) for adults and 1.m. You can see the interior on a guided tour (in German) Monday through Friday at noon and 3 p. shops. 3. In December.25) for students and children under 18. The Marienkirche served as a model for many . cross the Puppenbrücke (Dolls’ Bridge) and head east into the Altstadt. The building sits on brick arcades that allow easy access to the main entrance on Breite Strasse. After you enter the Altstadt. The Rathaus was rebuilt several times since the first foundation stone was laid in 1230. The present building. churches. to 6 p. a local history museum housed within the gate and contains a model of Lübeck as the town appeared in the mid 17th century. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. You can see everything in less than 30 minutes. From the train station. the oldest dates from 1579.. the twin-towered Marienkirche (St. stand the Salzspeicher (Salt Lofts). Schüsselbuden 13 (% 0451/397-700). 1. The entire walk. the newest from 1745. a group of six gabled Renaissance buildings.204 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Marktplatz.. one of the oldest and most beautiful city halls in Germany. and vegetable stalls every Monday and Thursday. Merchants stored salt (considered “white gold”) from nearby Lüneburg in these buildings before shipping it to Scandinavia. Mary’s Church). fruit. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. takes about four to five hours.m. topped by slender turrets. and medieval torture instruments. with stops at museums. The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures. once the main town entrance. the Markt is the site of Lübeck’s famous Christmas Market. or single-sail vessels). you reach Lübeck’s Rathaus.m. Black glazedbrick courses (horizontal lines) and round panels emblazoned with coats of arms adorn the redbrick walls. The Rathaus stands on the north and east sides of the Marktplatz. 2. 4. where the salt was used to preserve fish. models of Hanseatic Kogge (cogs. to 6 p. and guild halls. Builders used brick as the predominant material for houses. Here you’ll find the new tourist Welcome Center and the newly revamped Museum Holstentor (% 0451/122-4129). directly in front of you is the 15thcentury Holstentor (Holsten Gate). Just south.m. Towering above the Markt and the Rathaus is one of northern Germany’s most outstanding examples of the brick Gothic style. What follows are the stops on a walking tour of the Altstadt that begins at the Hauptbahnhof (train station). 1€ ($1. Rathausplatz (% 0451/122-1005). Continuing a few blocks east on Holstenstrasse. a large square filled with meat. The bridge got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its stone railings.m.

carrying on a tradition established by St. 9.buddenbrookhaus. a few blocks north of the Rathaus.m. and documents chronicling Mann’s life. At Königstrasse 21. to 5 p. just to the south of the Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. also displays major 20th-century artists such as Leon Kirchner. and Ernst Barlach. the source of the movie The Blue Angel. the rest of the year from 11 a. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. An outstanding collection of German Romantic and German Impressionist paintings is on view at Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. at Glockengiesser 21.m. left as a reminder and warning of the horrors of war. solid.) high. 1€ ($1.m.m. Königstrasse 9–11 (% 0451/122-4148). Step through the ornamented baroque portal (open 9 a. The museum. Inside. admission is 7€ ($9) for adults.60€ ($6) for students. If you’re a fan of the great German writer Thomas Mann. Bremen. to 6 p. This big. to 5 p.) and you enter a tranquil courtyard with houses still occupied by widows. www. Dietrich Buxtehude (1637–1707).m. 4. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. the tower bells crashed down into the church and embedded themselves in the stone floor. 7. Mann’s brother.25) for students and children 6 to 18. Next door. is the Füchtingshof. Mary’s best-known organist and composer. and Lübeck 205 other churches built in the Baltic region. They still are there. and that of his family. 8. has the highest brick vaulting in the world. former West German chancellor and Nobel Peace Prize winner. just north of the Marienkirche. 36m (120 ft.m. and has exhibits relating to the city’s cultural life in the 18th and 19th centuries.m.. formed from two 18th-century town houses. The house is open daily April through October from 10 a. from birth to death. letters. Its central nave. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter. the childhood home of Willi Brandt. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. Max Beckmann. to noon and 3–6 p. is in the process of being restored and will become the Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck. 5. 6. an almshouse built in the 17th century for the widows of seamen and merchants. you find the Günther Grass Haus museum.. for information. Mengstrasse 4 (% 0451/122-4192. The Magic Mountain. plan to spend at least half an hour at Buddenbrookhaus. stone-and-stucco house with a gabled roof belonged to Mann’s grandparents and was the model for the family home Mann wrote about in Buddenbrooks. During a WWII bombing attack.. and On the second floor are period rooms and artifacts. . see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter for more information.m.m. At Glockengiesserstrasse 25. you find a comprehensive collection of photographs. was the author of Professor Unrat. Organ concerts take place during the summer and fall. whose works include Death in Venice.m. to 6 p.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Heinrich Mann (1871–1950).

Schmiedestrasse (% 0451/397330).–5 p. To round off your tour of Lübeck.m.m. The building is open daily from 10 a. A short distance to the north stands the Heiligen-Geist-Hospital (Hospital of the Holy Spirit). You can see everything in about half an hour. Admission is 2. 12. Am Koburg (% 0451/122-2040). and you can poke your head inside them (no admission charge.206 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany White gold and black bricks In Lübeck and in other cities in northern Germany. are the city’s oldest almshouses. 13. Housed in a 16th-century Augustinian convent that was later used as an almshouse and a prison. Two blocks northeast of the Dom. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults.m. the church itself isn’t that interesting. you’ll sometimes see medieval redbrick buildings decorated with black glazed bricks. you find the St.-Annen-Strasse 15 (% 0451/122-4137). (Salt was considered “white gold. Philanthropic local citizens founded the hospital in 1230. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. you find Lübeck’s Dom. with its belfry and four turreted spires. the church is open daily from 9 a. From March through September. and take the elevator up to the top of its tower for a memorable view of Lübeck and its port.m. On the south side of town. . at no. to 7 p. 14.m. 1€ ($1.25) for students and children. 130 tiny wooden cabins without ceilings were built within its enormous main hall. This building. and one of the most important monumental buildings of the Middle Ages. is one of the oldest social-welfare institutions in Europe. Construction on this massive edifice began in 1173.m. to 6 p.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. The church was destroyed in WWII and later rebuilt.m.).. including a work by Hans Memling. head over to the 750-year-old Petrikirche (St. at nos. the museum has a noteworthy collection of medieval and Renaissance altarpieces. The Glandorps-Gang. The black glaze comes from salt being sprinkled on the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder. to 6 p.m. In the early 19th century. The cabins remain intact. open Tues–Sun 10 a. to 6 p. and the Glandorps-Hof. dating from 1612 and built for the widows of merchants and craftsmen. when the building was converted to a shelter for elderly men and women. 1€ ($1.-Annen-Museum. St. Peter’s Church). Mühlendamm 2–6 (% 0451/74704). 11. 41.”) 10. 49–51. Except for its size.25) for students and children 6 to 18.50€ ($3) for adults.

winding roads lead through spruce-covered hills to unspoiled villages that waft you back to the Middle Ages. author of Faust) and the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Thuringia is considered the “green heart” of Germany because the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) covers much of its southern portion. Leipzig. (See the “Saxony and Thuringia” map in this chapter. associated with Goethe (Germany’s greatest writer. Weimar. Narrow. The Frauenkirche is a symbol of what Dresden once was — a city known as “Florence on the Elbe.) The cities of Dresden and Leipzig. celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006. destroyed in the bombings of World War II (WWII). the mighty Elbe River flows through an area near Dresden known as Saxon Switzerland. are the largest cities in Saxony. S Dresden: Florence on the Elbe Dresden. Dresden became the most important city in Saxony when the ruling Wettin .” and renowned for its architecture and art treasures — and hopes to become again. Both states are rich in sightseeing possibilities. with their outstanding museums. and Weimar: Jewels of the East In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Dresden and its famous museums ᮣ Discovering old and new Leipzig ᮣ Enjoying the beautiful town of Weimar ᮣ Remembering the past at Buchenwald axony and Thuringia (Thüringen in German) are side-by-side Länder (states) in eastern Germany that are well worth visiting. In Saxony. historic buildings. Perhaps the most important celebratory event was the reopening of the famous domed Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). famed for its river scenery. and musical heritage. is the cultural jewel in Thuringia’s crown.Chapter 14 Dresden. located 198km (123 miles) south of Berlin and 111km (69 miles) southeast of Leipzig.

More than a dozen trains make the daily trip from Berlin (2–21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (41⁄2 hours). By train Getting to Dresden by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe is easy. Dresden-Neustadt. Then came the night of February 13. or visit their Web site www. For rail information and schedules. the station on the north side of the river. Dresden emerged as the top contender for tourists in the former East Germany. By plane Flughafen Dresden (% 0351/881-3360. . stop at both stations. You can buy your ticket at the S-Bahn window in the underground station beneath the new A taxi from the airport to the center of Dresden costs about 16€ ($20).208 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Dynasty decided to make the city its capital in the late 15th century. Dresden has two main rail The trip takes about 20 minutes and costs 1. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861. and a good road network. which runs from the airport to the two main train stations.70€ ($2). in the reopened portion of the Residenzschloss (palace). the preeminent personality in the town’s history. The easiest and least expensive way to get into the city center is by the Flughafen S-Bahn (airport train). www. 1945. when Allied firebombs destroyed three-quarters of Dresden’s Altstadt. Many visitors come just to visit the museums in the Zwinger Palace and to see the treasures of the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). All long-distance trains pull into the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). the beautiful old core of the city. including the Airport S-Bahn.dresden-airport. lies 9km (51⁄2 miles) north of the city center. is used more for regional trains. Around it you find nearly all of Dresden’s major attractions. the city airport. but the work has taken decades. This major city has an airport. within walking distance of Altstadt (Old Town). Under the rule of Elector Augustus the Strong. although some trains. on Wiener Platz on the south side of the Elbe. is the most ambitious reconstruction effort in the entire country and marks an important stage in Dresden’s recovery. Getting there Getting to Dresden is easy. After reunification. Historic buildings have since been rebuilt. using original plans and even some of the original stone (bombed pieces of which were found in the Elbe). The reconstruction of the Frauenkirche.bahn. at Schlesischer Park. Lufthansa and other international carriers provide regularly scheduled service between Dresden and cities throughout Germany and Europe. frequent train service. Dresden flourished as one of the great cultural centers of Europe.

Chapter 14: Dresden. and Weimar 209 Saxony and Thuringia 0 0 20 km 20 mi N 103 Airport E251 E28 POLAND E26 E55 167 A11 Eberswalde d e r O AN Y Berlin SAXONYANHALT 107 102 5 273 A10 E55 GERM THURINGIA Brandenburg Potsdam E51 A115 Berlin E55 A12 E30 189 Area of Detail E30 2 A13 87 Magdeburg El 81 71 A9 E51 102 Lübben Lübbenau bbenau be R iv Wittenberg er 187 Dessau E55 A13 2 87 101 97 6 91 Quedlinburg Eisleben 6 80 Halle Leipzig A14 Meissen Dresden 173 4 93 88 A4 E40 Buchenwald 7 Erfurt To Eisenach Dornburg Weimar Jena A4 E40 2 Altenburg E55 Chemnitz 174 E441 Arnstadt Th ür in ge Plauen E442 r E49 4 W al d E51 Hof E49 E48 Karlovy Vary 6 Coburg 279 C Z E C H 27 R E P U B L I C A70 E48 21 E49 Bayreuth A93 22 Bamberg A73 To Nuremberg Plzen E50 E50 . Leipzig.

to 4 p. hotels. On the north side of the river is Dresden-Neustadt. % 0351/857-1011. near the main train station. Germany’s reunification triggered a real estate and reconstruction boom in this picturesque neighborhood of art galleries. Trying to find a parking spot in the center of Dresden isn’t easy.dvbag. Orienting yourself The Elbe River divides Dresden more or less in half. or concert tickets. between the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) and the river. and Wilder Mann) lead into the center. I recommend that you park on the outskirts and travel to the city center by bus or tram.. is the main thoroughfare (and site of the main tourist information office). and boat tours in the Dresden area. You also can buy theater. including art museums. and the Semper Opera House. Dresdner Verkehrsbetriebe (DVB. Saturday 10 a. Four exits (Altstadt.m. churches in the Altmarkt (Old Market) and Neumarkt (New Market) squares. The highways run along the west side of the city. and restaurants. city tours. you can easily get around on foot. Neustadt. The same services are available at the Information Center located in the Schinkelwache (Old City Guard House).m. The cost is 19€ ($24). maintains an extensive system of bus and tram lines within the city and far out into the suburbs. including those in the Zwinger and the Albertinum. On the south side. and Sunday (Schinkelwache only) 10 a. you can book a hotel room and purchase a map of Dresden and information booklets in English.m. The Dresden Card is good for 48 hours on all trams. You can buy the Dresden Card at the tourist information centers. and cafes. but the major lines continue to operate every hour. its main streets. The city’s transport You also get reduced prices for other museums.. Getting around Dresden If you plan to visit only the historic center of Dresden. buses.m.210 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany By car The A13 Autobahn connects Dresden to Berlin. The A4 comes in from Leipzig and Bavaria (eventually the A4 will connect Dresden to Prague). the Zwinger Palace museums. dresden-tourist. and ferries in Dresden and admission to all the top museums. Service is limited after midnight. and restaurants line Hauptstrasse and Königstrasse. a wide pedestrian street lined with shops. apartments. Hellerau. . to 6 p. Pretty 19th-century houses reconstructed to hold shops.m.m. boutiques. at Theaterplatz Square. www. Finding information At the Information Center. you find all the major cultural attractions. the newly restored The hours for both are Monday through Friday 10 a. Prager Strasse. opera. www. Prager Strasse (% 0351/491-920. to 4 p.

P Zin ze Berlin tras bu Hamburg Gün be lal lee Sternplatz ALTSTADT sse Lingnerplatz Blüherpark Bl herpark Grosser Garten tzst e DINING Ayers Rock 14 Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen 22 Café Schinkelwache 8 Café zur Frauenkirche 15 Fischgalerie 4 Freiberger Schankhaus 19 Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) 6 Luisenhof 21 Rossini 12 Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais 9 ke Ros tr en s sse rS tra rass ae onst as se Webergasse Pirnaischer Platz G r un e Amm r n st nstra e Sac hsa Zw Am Zwinger Pond i 11 12 13 14 Theater6 platz Rathenauplatz Dürerstrasse Pilln itzer llee ass e Stra sse rass e .25 km ag se bu ienMar cke brü ra Ter ss e Albertstrasse sse e ss H au p chs tra tst Frie dri St ra ras er 0 2 sse nig Kö rasse 1 st N ra nuf st rit z 4 3 rd Wiga 18 Carolaplatz sb Köbisplatz se 22 21 20 Sachsenplatz Elb e stras er e s r tra aufe ts Ostr vrien e D ss ei e 5 se Ost W ss ert Alb ücke br zs er it nn Ko ustu ing Aug ei ert Carolsbrüc ch rück e ACCOMMODATIONS Art'otel 5 Hilton Dresden 13 Hotel Bülow Residenz 1 Hotel Martha Hospiz 2 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe 18 Westin Bellevue 3 tra raalle Elbe Ter rass enu fer Fr. Leipzig.-HeckertPlatz Sc h we ras se Marie Freib erge r Str asse Postplatz 9 Wilsd ru Schloß E hst hrlic rasse 10 15 17 16 18 19 ffer S trasse strass rine r St 7 8 e An ne ss St ra tra Georgplatz sse -Ring Dr.M de rg 0 0.25 mi 0.-Külz sse ausstra h n e Wais se er rfs Stü rg nd o er S et er s St Prag Chapter 14: Dresden. and Weimar ra ATTRACTIONS Albertinum 17 Frauenkirche 16 Grünes Gewolbe 10 Katholische Hofkirche 11 Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst 18 Standseilbahn 20 Zwinger 7 Church Information Railway Hauptbahnhof Dresden au e ch ss tti e Lu rass nga e st d Lin B 211 Munich lüh e Wiener Platz Le nn e am Main rst Frankfurt i str iese erw Bürgkstrasse Par sse as se GERMANY Dresden i .

The price is 18€ ($22) for adults. Buy your tickets at a tourist information to 6 p. Art’otel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt The six floors of this dramatic postmodern hotel. The cost is 11€ ($14) for adults.m. book your room ahead of time. DVB (% 0351/8571011.. You find a small gym and sauna on the premises. Seeing Dresden by guided tour Stadtrundfahrt Dresden (% 0351/899-5650. and 5 p. Double rooms have bathrooms with stainless-steel sinks and a shower. good for two adults and up to four children in one zone. to 7 p. The paddle-wheel steamers depart from the Terrassenufer quay below the Brühlsche Terrasse (embankment) along the south bank of the river and travel upstream to Loschwitz and back again.m. and costs 10€ ($13). 3 p.m. free for children 14 and younger.m. you only need a one-zone ticket. a walk through the city’s historic center. adjacent to the Augustusbrücke (Augustus Bridge) and covers both sides of the Elbe..stadtrundfahrt. 1 p. This tour departs from Postplatz daily at 11 a.m. Staying in Dresden Since reunification and the amazing increase in tourism. www. You can hop on or off the bus at any of 22 points along the way. If you want to stay here. A Familientageskarte (family day ticket). Purchase your tickets and a transportation map from the vending machines (marked “Fahrkarten”) outside the train stations. Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt (% 0351/866-090) offers daily 90-minute boat trips along the Elbe from May into October at 11 a.50€ ($5. tours from Thursday through Sunday. and so has the demand for rooms. 5.212 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The city is divided into fare zones. see Chapter 22. A one-day Tageskarte (day pass) costs 4. An English-speaking guide accompanies the 1 and 3 p.m. both are open Monday through Friday from 7 a. www.m. . are the “artiest” of any hotel in offers a one-hour Historical City Tour (Historischer Stadtrundgang). to 3 p. A single ticket for the bus or tram costs 1. Dresden’s hotel prices have soared. offers a daily 90-minute Super Dresden Tour (Grosse Stadtrundfahrt).m. Validate your ticket (by stamping the ticket in a machine) upon entering the bus or tram... or at DVB service centers inside the Hauptbahnhof or at Postplatz. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a. Buses leave every half-hour from 10 a. For a description of the beautiful new Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe.50€ ($7) for children.dvbag. and 3:30 p.m. located a bit out of the center of the Altstadt.m. including the lovely Loschwitz neighborhood.50).70€ ($2) for a one-hour ride anywhere in Zone 1.m. costs 5.m. The 174 goodsized bedrooms are stylish and comfortably chic without being pretentious.m.50€ ($7). unless you’re visiting the outskirts of Dresden. Buy your tickets at the kiosk on the quay. a guided (audio headsets for English translations) bus tour that leaves from Schlossplatz.

and Weimar 213 See map p. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. V. Hilton Dresden $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This 333-room hotel across from the Frauenkirche is one of the best (and largest) in eastern Germany. Rates: 250€ ($312) double. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. Hotel Martha Hospiz $$ Neustadt Managed by the Association of Christian Hoteliers (VCH). Nieritzstrasse 11. MC. % 0351/81760. 01097 Dresden.dresden. The hotel’s elegant. V. are on the small side. See map p. www. MC. Rooms are midsize and somewhat short on style but well-maintained. See map p. The large marble-tiled bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Rähnitzgasse 19. and many of the rooms have lovely river and Altstadt views. DC. Rates: 130€ ($162) double. Fax: 0351/492-2777. Rates: 160€–215€ ($200–$269) double. 211. Baby-sitting can be arranged. Hotel Bülow Residenz $$$$ Neustadt One of the finest restorations in Neustadt. 211. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. expensive. and Canada. Ostra-Allee 33. Each of the 30 spacious rooms is laid out differently and furnished with modern designer and reproduction Biedermeier pieces. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). Fax: 0351/ DC. www. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. modern décor and are well-maintained.buelow-residenz. Fax: 0351/864-2725. 01097 Dresden.Chapter 14: Dresden. You find a pool. 211. Rates: 140€–250€ ($175–$312) double.hilton. Rates include buffet breakfast. Michelin-starred Caroussel Restaurant serves fresh French cuisine with a Mediterranean influence (main courses 25€–35€/ $ 31–$ 44).artotel. this simple but comfortable four-story hotel is a 15-minute walk from the heart of Dresden’s Altstadt. % 0351/80030. Fax: 0351/817-6222. fitness club. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. AE. on the north bank of the Elbe River. % 0351/49220. The 50 rooms have a simple. 01067 Dresden. www. DC. or 0351/ Rates include buffet breakfast. . 01067 Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. AE. V. each with a shower. AE. and sauna on the premises. AE. V. See map p. MC. An der Frauenkirche 5. http://marthahospiz. The staff is unusually friendly and helpful.S. % 800-445-8667 in the U. 211. MC. Westin Bellevue $$$$ Neustadt The 339-room Westin Bellevue is located near the most attractive part of the Elbe River. Leipzig. this luxury boutique hotel is housed in a building that dates from 1730.

www. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Children younger than 18 stay for free in their parents’ room. 211. The bathrooms have shower units or shower-tub combinations. V. if not spacious. and another 800 can be accommodated within the sprawling beer garden (open Apr–Oct). well-appointed. For a sample of the city’s culinary offerings. Menu items include kangaroo rump steak. Dining in Dresden Dresden is bursting with new restaurants of every kind. See map p. MC.S. soups.m. Open: Daily 10 a. AE. Café Schinkelwache $ –$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL This sandstone structure in the center of Theaterplatz was built in 1832 by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel to house soldiers and guards.50€–17€ ($11–$21). and salads. grilled salmon. Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen $ –$$ Neustadt GERMAN Some 250 diners can fit into the dining rooms in this newly built replica of an old-fashioned beer hall. See map p. Rates: 250€–350€ ($312–$437) double. Grosse Meissner Strasse 15. the bar area becomes a crowded singles scene. Ayers Rock $ –$$ Altstadt AUSTRALIAN This likable Australian restaurant with outdoor tables is famous for its cocktails but also serves German and Aussie beer on tap. and comfortable. 211. . sautéed fish with parsley and onions. You find an on-site pool and health club.–1 a. you can walk across the river to the Altstadt in ten minutes. % 0351/811-990. grassy.m. Tram: 11 to Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen. wander down Münzgasse. Tram: 9 from the Hauptbahnhof stops in front of the hotel at Neustädter Markt. you can eat and drink to the sounds of an oom-pahpah band. Open: Daily 11 a. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). or 0351/805-1733. DC. A green. The menu features heaping plates of traditional favorites such as roast pork shank. Neustadt (5km/3 miles northeast of city center).m. AE.westin. In 1995. % 800-937-8461 in the U. 01097 Dresden. Tram 4 or 8 to Main courses: 8. and roasts.m. Münzgasse 8. Fax: 0351/805-1749. AE. As the night wears on. MC. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. DC. 211. ostrich steak. Am Brauhaus 8B. % 0351/490-1188. V. and Canada.–3 a. sausages. Waldschlösschen beer is brewed on the premises. Schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). V. MC. riverside park stretches behind the hotel. the narrow lane that runs north from the Frauenkirche to the river.214 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The rooms are large. grilled lamb cutlets. On Saturday and Sunday afternoons. See map p. DC.

For dessert try the homemade Quarkkeutchen. Open: Daily 10 a.m. Main courses: 9€–18€ ($11–$23). 8. Tues–Sat 6–11 p. soups. cheese. to midnight. and pork goulash with cabbage and dumplings. minimalist design. and a blueblack color scheme. served with black bread. % 0351/490-3909. located directly across from the Frauenkirche. pastas such as rigatoni with chicken breast. Accompany your meal with a glass of Freiberger Preminium Pils. 211. Fresh sushi is available on Wednesday and Friday nights. are good appetizers.50–$6. or chicken breast fricassee with mustard.m. 2. An der Frauenkirche 5. AE. 12. You can order a salad with turkey strips. is a good place to sit outside and eat or have a drink. AE. a baked dumpling filled with cheese and raisins. Maxstrasse 2. dramatic lighting. Freiberger Schankhaus $$ Altstadt SAXON/GERMAN This place. See map p. meal-size salads. MC. Fresh oysters and marinated herring.m. MC. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). or 17. scampi. 11. and Weimar 215 the building was rebuilt and reconfigured into an intimate cafe with outdoor tables on the terrace (you find a tourist information center around the other side). Pastries: 2€–5€ ($2. Menu selections include pastries. Leipzig. 14. V. with its outside terrace overlooking the newly restored Frauenkirche. AE.m.25).50€–12€ ($8–$15). Sophienstrasse am Theaterplatz. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 3 p. V. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. 7. Fresh seafood dishes may include salmon with champagne sauce. Main courses: 6. V. or coffee. beer. crepes with mushrooms and chicken. and Worcestershire sauce. .m. See map p. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. 211. Fischgalerie $$ –$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD The interior of Dresden’s best fish restaurant is a sophisticated affair with an open-view kitchen. or bouillabaisse with North Sea fish. MC. Tram: 1. Café zur Frauenkirche $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This street-side corner cafe. 211. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.–2 a. and veal stew.. Reservations recommended. and white fish served with tomato-flavored spaghettini. and Saxon sauerbraten (marinated roast beef). The menu offers simple but delicious Saxon staples such as a Saxon potato fritter with cheese and strips of smoked salmon. Main courses: 14€–24€ ($17–$30).Chapter 14: Dresden. 4. The menu changes every week. % 0351/490-3506. % 0351/498-9836. is a good place to perch for a casual meal or dessert and coffee. a bowl of Linseneintopf (lentil stew). Open: Daily 9 a. See map p. You can also sit and enjoy wine. The menu typically has dishes such as grilled lamb cutlet with asparagus and sauce béarnaise.

See map p. Flickering candles set beneath vaulted ceilings provide suitable atmosphere. once housed Italian workers. . Main courses: 6. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. AE. MC. veal in thyme sauce with tomato fettuccine. as does the formal.50€–15€ ($8–$18). Taschenberg 3. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). % 0351/498-160. See map p.or oven-roasted marinated beef). V. Menu items may include homemade ravioli with arugula and cheese.m. Pastries: 4–6. called Dirndls. 211. % 0351/864-2855. Open: Daily 6–11:30 p. 211. and juniper sauce. or lamb with applewine sauce and polenta. red-walled Weinzimmer (wine room). For dessert try the tiramisu with bananas or sorbet with champagne and fruit. Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) $$ Altstadt ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL This quartet of restaurants in a neoclassical building. erected on the site of a cluster of cottages (“the Italian Village”). 211.m.216 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. Open: Daily 11 a. to midnight. MC. 211. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.m. or you may want to try the famous house specialty. Open: Daily 11 a. Theaterplatz. Reservations recommended. Neumarkt 8 (in the Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe). An der Frauenkirche 5 (in the Dresden Hilton). V. Each of the four restaurants has a different theme. MC. DC. an upscale Italian eatery on the top floor with an outdoor balcony overlooking Theaterplatz.–11 p.m. serves dishes such as risotto with artichokes and radicchio and veal scaloppini. one floor above the lobby of the Dresden Hilton. AE. completely smokefree setting. The Café. Rossini $$$ Altstadt ITALIAN Rossini offers fine Italian cuisine in a stylish. AE. served with asparagus and roast potatoes. MC. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. V. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25).m. Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais $$ Altstadt GERMAN The food in this famous cellar restaurant is a modern approximation of a medieval feast. Open: Daily 10 a. You can order dishes such as grilled rabbit with thyme or trout fried in butter. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. “August’s Hunting Trophy”: roasted medallions of venison. The restaurant has a menu in English to help you make up your mind. is a good place for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). a graceful-looking room with windows that overlook the river. dress-up. Bellotto. V. DC. Main courses: 19€–29€ ($24–$36). wild boar.m. The Bierkeller (beer hall) with a painted ceiling serves traditional dishes such as Sauerbraten (pot. % 0351/497-260. See map p. AE. DC.50€ ($5–$8). % 0351/500-4347.–1 a. and so do the waitresses in their traditional German dresses.

m. and Sauerbraten with cabbage and dumplings. Exploring Dresden You find all of Dresden’s major attractions in the relatively compact Altstadt. The German/Saxon menu features traditional dishes such as potato soup with sausages. the Saxon King Albert converted this former royal arsenal into a home for his vast collection of art and precious jewelry. the historic center. Albertinum Altstadt Between 1884 and 1887. Main courses go for 10€ to 17€ ($12–$22). The Dresden Card. Across the street from the station is Luisenhof. described under “Finding Information. take one of Dresden’s old funiculars (mountain railways) up to the top of a hill in the suburb of Loschwitz and dine in a pleasant restaurant overlooking the city. but relax with a glass of beer or wine and enjoy the view of Dresden’s spires. Bergbahnstrasse 8 (% 0351/214-9960). the Neues Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault).m.m. First. a restaurant with an outdoor terrace offering wonderful panoramic views of the Elbe River and Dresden in the distance. for 10€ ($13) adults.m.–2 p.m. A money-saving Tageskarte (day ticket) gets you into all four museums in the Zwinger complex.. starting with moody works by Caspar David .m. the Neustadt quarter has Germany’s largest concentration of houses from the Gründerzeit (Biedermeier.75) round-trip. you’ll see the Standseilbahn. The Neustadt quarter on the north bank of the Elbe is another area you may want to visit. and Weimar 217 Dinner with a view For a fun. is another money-saving option that includes all public transportation. at Trachtenbergerstrasse 40.Chapter 14: Dresden. and the Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (all described in this section). Take the funicular to the top. a funicular that began operation in 1895. to 9 p.skd-dresden. For more information on all of Dresden’s major museums. Although you won’t find the museum attractions of the Altstadt here. The collection concentrates on German art. take Tram 8 to Schillerplatz and walk across the famous Blaue Wunder bridge. early 19th-century) period. The funicular runs from 6 a. and costs 3€ ($3. www. On the other side. 4€ ($5) children and seniors. visit the Web site of the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden (State Art Collections). de. The Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery). The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. taking up two floors.). easy.and 20th-century art. is a rich collection of 19th. to 1 a. The service can be slow. The restaurant accepts MasterCard and Visa. a residential area called Weisser Hirsch. and memorable dining experience. Sunday from 10 a.” earlier in this chapter. Leipzig.m. to midnight (brunch 10 a.

Allot at least an hour to see the highlights. Two collections are open for viewing. and going up to the brilliant works of Dresden-born Otto Dix (1891–1969).m. to noon and 1–6 p. Allow yourself at least an hour to browse this treasure-trove (be prepared for crowds). an exact replica of the 18th-century original. The new golden cross atop the dome. Admission: 18th-century objects. The reopening of the church was an event of major symbolic importance.m. Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) Altstadt Built between 1726 and 1743. featuring a larger selection of the collection (no tours allowed.m. Note: This great collection closed in January 2006 for major redesign work. The sculpture collection has been moved to the Zwinger (see later in this section). See map p. or 8 to Rathenau Platz. Once again this baroque church dominates the historic center of Dresden. Neumarkt. the Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Historic Green Vault) opened. The 1945 Allied bombing of Dresden destroyed 80 percent of the city. step inside the brilliant white interior to admire the immaculate restoration work. bronze statuettes. including the Frauenkirche. % 0351/491-4619. ivory carvings. but it was moved to this new location in September 2004. But there’s more. Even better. and priceless porcelain. 211. this dazzling selection of highlights will more than satisfy your curiosity. each requiring a separate admission. and all your belongings must be checked before entering). and as of press time there was no scheduled date for its reopening. Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) Altstadt The fabulous assortment of treasures displayed in the Residenzschloss formerly was housed in the Albertinum. 7. the Frauenkirche on the southeast side of Neumarkt (New Market Square) was the most important Protestant church in Germany and had one of the most famous domes in Europe. A painstaking restoration project began in 1993 and was finally completed in 2006. 211. enjoy one of the 3 p. % 0351/6560-670. See map p. Open: Daily. for performance information. Sunday concerts (8€/$ 10). generally 10 a. Currently closed. The Historic .218 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Friedrich. Unless you’re an objet d’art nut. the East German government let the charred ruin remain as a memorial.. including rococo chests. The Neues Grünes Gewölbe (New Green Vault) features ten rooms of selected masterworks from the huge collection of 16th. intricately designed mirrors. Brühl Terrace. but the paintings in the New Masters Gallery unfortunately won’t be on view until the Albertinum reopens. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. a brilliant painter who ran afoul of the Nazis. the great German Romantic artist. and take advantage of the free audio guide. was built by the son of a British bomber pilot who took part in the original bombing raid. see the Web site. gold jewelry. After the war. if you want it. except during Sunday concerts. In September 2006. Tram: 3.

Sat 10 a. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. D.m. or 51 to Carolaplatz.m. M. Built by the son of Augustus the Strong.75) adults. described earlier). Historic Green Vault 12€ ($14). Open: Daily 10 a. Katholische Hofkirche (Catholic Court Church) Altstadt The restored Hofkirche.50) children and students. 7.m.Chapter 14: Dresden. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. tableware.) bell tower decorated with statues of saints and apostles. What you see are everyday objects used by the common folk — a far cry from the gem-encrusted treasures in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault. The semicircular Wallpavillon at the west end and the adjacent Nymphenbad (Bath of Nymphs). the church was constructed in a lavish Italian baroque style with a curving facade and 86m (282-ft. also known as the Cathedral of St. 211. 211. Leipzig. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.. built this magnificent baroque palace in 1719. % 0351/803-0817. The architect. Trinitas. and folk costumes. % 0351/4914-2000. Admission: New Green Vault 6€ ($7. Tram: 3.–4:30 p. % 0351/495-1133. is the largest church in Saxony.m. Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts) Neustadt The oldest Renaissance building in Dresden.–6 p. 5.–6 p. He wanted the Zwinger to be his Versailles and a place where he could show off his incredible art collections. 3. pottery. fountains. Inside. Sophienstrasse. See map p.50) seniors and children. Also shown are toys. 211. carvings. Jägerhof. the 16th-century Jägerhof (Hunters Court) houses this fine collection of regional folk art. you can see the crypt with the tombs of 49 kings and princes of Saxony. and Weimar 219 Green Vault can only be visited with a prebooked timed-entry ticket. and Christmas decorations from the nearby Erzgebirge region. See map p.50€ ($4. (Historic Green Vault until 7 p. Frederick Augustus II (ruled 1733–1763).m. 2€ ($2.50) adults.skddresden. See map p.m. designed a series of galleries and domed pavilions to enclose a large rectangular courtyard with formal gardens. Kopckestrasse 1.. are notable buildings that rely on the exuberant sculptures of the Bavarian artist Balthasar Permoser . Admission: 3€ ($3.–4 p. available in advance by calling % 0351/4911-9285 or online at www. Admission: Free. Residenzschloss. 8. with its graceful fountains and mythological figures. Open: Mon–Fri 9 a. Pöppelmann (1662–1736).m. hand-woven baskets.m.). On display are pieces of painted furniture. You need about 15 minutes to look around. Sun noon to 4 p.m. Zwinger Altstadt Augustus the Strong. and promenades. elector of Saxony and king of Poland.

m. you can see everything in under half an hour. Admission is 6€ ($ 7.–6 p.50) for children and seniors. 211. Dutch. % 0351/491-4622.75) for adults. On the west side of the Zwinger. Tram: 2. the Green Vault. entrance in the courtyard). 2. to 6 p. you can see a small but superlative collection of armor and weapons from the 15th to 18th centuries. In the Rüstkammer (Armory).25) children and seniors. displays Japanese.50€ ($ 3) for children and seniors. Today. a separate section of the Semper Gallery. a Renaissancestyle two-story pavilion linked by one-story galleries. In galleries two through four. and Meissen porcelain from the 18th and 19th centuries.220 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany (1651–1732). with its entrance in the Glockenspiel Pavillon (Carillon Pavillion). . Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m. Canaletto’s views of Dresden are so true to life that they were used as reference works during the post-WWII reconstruction of the city. you find the Mathematische-Physikalischer Salon (Salon of Mathematics and Physics). Vermeer. See map p. 2€ ($ 2. Again. — but charge separate admission prices. 4. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. and German paintings by Van Dyck. Rubens. with all manner of clocks and scientific instruments of the 16th to 19th centuries. They all are open the same hours — Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. This gallery. depending on your interest level.50) for children and seniors.50€ ($ 4. You save money with a Tageskarte (Day Ticket).m. On the northeast side is the Semper Gallery.50) adults. Admission is 3€ ($ 3.m. Give yourself about 15 minutes to wander through.50) children and seniors. and Rembrandt. 2€ ($ 2. 20€ ($ 25) for a family. The entrance is directly across from the entrance to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. it costs 10€ ($ 13) for adults. Admission is 5€ ($ 6. The collection includes examples from over five millennia. Gottfried Semper added the pavilion in 1846. Dürer. you can spend 15 minutes or an hour.25) adults. this entire complex of buildings contains a stunning collection of museums. or 8 to Postplatz. The collection also includes Flemish.25) adults. Admission is 5€ ($ 6. Allow at least two hours for unhurried browsing. Chinese. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection). The “giant animal room” on the second floor has a collection of 18th-century Meissen animals. 5€ ($ 6. and the Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts. you find a series of detailed townscapes of Dresden painted by Canaletto in the mid 18th century. Selections from the Skulpturen-Sammlung (Sculpture Collection) formerly housed in the Albertinum are now on view in the Zwinger in the ground floor of the Französischer Pavillon (French Pavilion. good for all Zwinger museums. one of the best in the world. Depending on your interest. 3. has as its showpiece Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. starting with the ancient cultures of the Mediterranean region through all epochs of European sculpture to the present. to the left of the Wallpavillon. The most important museum is the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) in the Semper Gallery (entrance at Theaterplatz 1).75) for adults. Theaterplatz 1.

In Neustadt. More-exclusive shops reside in Neustadt on the north side of the river on Königstrasse and Hauptstrasse. The best shops Weihnachtsland am Zwinger.m.Chapter 14: Dresden.m. is the best-stocked and most interesting gift Zwinger- graben . accessible via Hauptstrasse 17–19 (Tram: 9). in the Altstadt. A Trödelmarkt (flea market) is open Saturdays from 9 a. where you find department stores Wilsdruffer Strasse. beneath the Albertbrücke (bridge) (Tram: 1 or 4). you find many high-quality antiques dealers lining both sides of a lane called Am Goldenen Reiter. to 3 p. Tram: 4 or 8). Leipzig. and Altmarkt. Kleine Brüdergasse 5 (% 0351/862-1230. and Weimar 221 The Zwinger Wallpavillon Mathematische– Physikalischer Salon Nymphenbad Julian–Grimau–Allee Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Picture Gallery) Theaterplatz Rüstkamner (Armory) Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection) Glockenspielpavillon Kronentor Shopping in Dresden Dresden’s main shopping streets are Prager Strasse.

Ticket prices range from 8€ to 78€ ($10–$97). the Sächsisches Oper (Saxon Opera). which began in 1434. . Bus: 72 or 76). Tram: 3 or 5). you can find classical concerts. 5km (3 miles) southeast of the center at Donaustrasse 72 (% 0351/4707340. Theaterplatz 2 (% 0351/4911705. The oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Dresden is Wehsener Porzellan. Summer concerts take place in the courtyards of the Zwinger.dresdnerphilharmonie. The Dresden Philharmonic performs at the Kulturpalast. discos. and Shakespeare. Anything you buy can be takes place in the Altmarkt and features handmade regional crafts and gift items and homemade foods. 4. Depending on your tastes. Tickets cost 11€ to 40€ ($14–$50). Look for woodcarvings from the Erzgebirge Mountains. The opera and ballet season lasts from September to mid-July. which was built in the mid 19th century and twice rebuilt. filigree lace from Plauen. Its hand-painted objects are the most charming and interesting in Dresden. Schiller. The famous Christmas market Dresden’s Weihnachtsmarkt (also called the Striezelmarkt) is the oldest Christmas market in Germany.222 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany shop in Dresden. New Year’s. Tickets are 10€ to 25€ ($13–$31). seeing a performance by the resident company. Tram: 13. 2.semperoper. Opera and classical concerts The Semperoper (Semper Opera House). indigo-printed cloth and pottery from Lusatia. You can also take a free tour of the studios and factory. or 7). Tram 1. The theater is closed during August. where actors perform dramas by Goethe. Advent stars from Hermhut. This December event. Tickets for classical concerts. and opera are available from the tourist information centers on Prager Strasse and Theaterplatz. in the Altmarkt (% 0351/48660. and Easter ornaments from the nearby Erzgebirge region. and blown-glass tree decorations from Lauscha. Postplatz (% 0351/491-350. The main stage for classical theater in the city is the Schauspielhaus. is one of the world’s great opera houses. Tram: 4 or 8). can be a highlight of your trip. or just a good place to relax with a glass of wine or a beer. www. rock shows. so many and varied nightlife options always are available. gingerbread from Pulsnitz. Several operas by Richard Wagner and Richard Strauss had their premieres in this house. If you’re an opera buff. dance. selling handmade Christmas. Discovering nightlife in Dresden Dresden is the cultural center of Saxony.

Raskolnikoff. The club is open daily from 9 p. is open daily from 7 p. and sheer sandstone cliffs. the esplanade that runs along the south bank of the river. Alaunstrasse 100 (% 0351/801-3957. located at the confluence of the Weisse Elster and Pleisse rivers.000 Although it doesn’t look like much. giant rocks. The Sächsische Dampfschiffahrtsgesellschaft (Saxon Excursion Boat Company.m. Monday is gay and lesbian night. Tram: 7. You can check out all the Elbe excursions.. to 3 a. Bars and clubs Café Hieronymous. until the last person leaves. or “city of heroes. Visiting Leipzig is worth the trip to see a proud East German city rediscovering and redefining itself after years of Communist rule. where you see castle-crowned hilltops. Leipzig is only a little smaller than Dresden.m.) With a population of about 450. on weekends. or 11). open daily from 5 p. Elbe cruises leave from the dock below Brühl Terrace.m. The upstairs cafe at Planwirtschaft.m. Cover is 4€ ($5). Leipzig. low-key bar without intrusive music. The place is open Monday to Friday from 11 a. is a trendy drinking place set in a cellar and popular with students and artists.m. to 2 a. Tram: 7 or 8). a small. the downstairs bar stays open until 3 a. Food and drink are for sale onboard. 5. to 2 a. Leipzig: City of Heroes Historic Leipzig. Tram: 7 or 8).m. or 11).m. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. and Weimar 223 Sailing through Saxon Switzerland If you have the time. online at www. and home to a famous university . Böhmische Strasse 34 (% 0351/804-5706. (See the “Leipzig” map in this chapter.m. Tram: 7 or 8). Louisenstrasse 10 (% 0351/801-1739.m.Chapter 14: Dresden. The round-trip cost is 18€ ($22) per person.saechsische-dampfschiffahrt. Other routes travel to Meissen and through Bohemia. % 0351/ 866-090) runs several trips on historic paddle-wheelers and modern boats through a scenic region known as Sächsisches Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland). 7.m. is open from 9 a. The trips take from 3 to 41⁄2 hours. Louisenstrasse 20 (% 0351/8013187.m. A dance club with room for everyone is DownTown and Groove Station.. Katherinenstrasse 11–13 (% 0351/802-8801. a center of publishing. 8. Die 100. Tram: 3. to 1 a. I recommend that you take a boat trip along the Elbe River. is called a Heldenstadt. and on Sunday you find dinner and dancing. is a hip dive with sand-covered floors. deep gorges. in English.m.” for its role in toppling the former Communist government of East Germany. Leipzig has long been a major cultural and commercial force in Saxony. to 2 a. From May into October. 8. daily excursions depart for the Saxon Switzerland route.

You still find some narrow streets and houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861 or visit www. is the largest on the Continent. A number of federal highways (B2. such as Munich and Frankfurt.m. a new commercial flash point for cafes. to midnight. You can easily get there from anywhere in Germany. Leipzig also is a city with many great musical traditions. But people in Leipzig are much more interested in looking forward than looking back. a train The recently restored Hauptbahnhof is one of the most happening places in Leipzig. and much of the city is rebuilt or being rebuilt. and Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig in 1813. trip time is 14 minutes. . and Frankfurt (5 hours). and its skyscrapers and nightlife give the city a cosmopolitan flair that’s unique for this region. For information and train schedules. and to other European 30-minute taxi ride to the city center costs about 30€ ($37). Leipzig was heavily bombed by British and American forces in 1943.000 students. Dresden (about 11⁄2–2 hours). including the famed Gewandhaus lies 11km (7 miles) northwest of the city center. 111km (68 miles) to the northwest.bahn. B6. Willy-Brandt-Platz.leipzig-airport. Getting there Leipzig has all the transportation options of a major city: an airport. and restaurants. For centuries. B95. Johann Sebastian Bach is closely associated with Leipzig. B181. The Flughafen (Airport) Express train runs between the airport and the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station) every 30 minutes from 4:30 a. By plane Several airlines link Leipzig to major German cities.224 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany with some 20. shops. www. trade fairs have played an important role in the city’s life. and some Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings and arcades from the early 20th century. B184) pass by or skirt Leipzig. By car Leipzig is connected to the A9 (Berlin–Munich) and the A14 (Halle– Dresden) Autobahns. or you may want to spend the night in this lively Saxon metropolis. and a good road network. The 25. The fare is 8€ ($10). B87. Leipzig-Halle International Airport (% 0341/224-1155. You can easily visit Leipzig as a daytrip from Dresden. Mozart and Mendelssohn performed here. By train The Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Trains arrive daily from Berlin (about 21⁄2 hours).

Katharinenstrasse Schwanenteich markt Augustusplatz Univers 14 Neu- Universität Leipzig Grimmai scher Steinweg Georg iring Burgplatz atz Schil lerstr asse pl Ro Go ss ldsc Str ass hm e t r. Alte Börse Markt 7 Naschmarkt Altes 15 Rathaus Gr as im maische S om 8 Th sse tr asse ga 11 12 13 9 KönigsMädler10 haus passag Klosterg.Ri Rossplatz ng Hamburg Berlin er Leipzig GERMANY am Main Dimitroffstrasse nstrasse ind nW ühle . m str Frankfurt Bee t h o v e Munich ATTRACTIONS Bach-Museum 8 Grasssi Museum 16 Museum der Bildenden Künste 3 Museum für Kunsthandwerk 14 Museum für Völkerkunde 11 Museum in der Runden Ecke 5 MusikinstrumentenMuseum 10 Nikolaikirche 15 Thomaskirche 9 Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig 13 . ün ew al d s rnb erg . Leipzig. Alte Waage Marktplatz ssg ässch. Gerberst r. z-Str h n it Tauc er- Gr Nü ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Fürstenhof 2 Leipzig Marriott Hotel 4 The Westin Leipzig 1 DINING Apels Garten 6 Auerbachs Keller 12 Paulaner Palais 7 Di ttr ich rin g Mart i n . and Weimar 225 Leipzig t er-S ach hum t-Sc Kur 1 0 0 100 meters 0.L u t h Neues Opernhaus Petersstrasse Burgstrass Sch Johannisplatz uls tra e sse Neues Gewandhaus 16 idts tras se . Fleischer g ass Reichsstrasse Nikolaistrasse WillyBrandtPlatz Wa gn erStr ass e i Brü hl Go e Goet hestr Barfu 6 e itätsstr.Chapter 14: Dresden.1 mile N Parthenstrasse Uferstrasse strasse Nordstrasse Pfaffendorfer strasse Information Railway i r. tmbold Hu Hauptbahnhof 2 Tröndlinring RichardWagnerPlatz Richard-Wagner-Strasse Brühl Sachsenplatz 3 4 Ric erd ele rrin g ha rd- Gr. Ritterstr asse 5 asse Hain str.

is a major plus. % 800-426-3135 in the U. AE. You can also book a hotel room here and purchase tickets for concerts and sightseeing tours. If you travel to Leipzig during those periods. Getting around Leipzig If you arrive by train for a daytrip. MC. runs the city’s tram. to 2 p. Tram: 15.m. booking your room in advance is essential. open Monday through Friday from 9 a.. helpful service here is a real recommendation. SBahn (surface trains). The Leipzig Marriott is a good. the location. this hotel has 92 rooms redecorated to reflect the original neoclassical styling. Leipzig Marriott Hotel $ –$$$ City Center Fans of Marriott hotels won’t find any surprises in this one. The lobby will be reconfigured and all the rooms freshened up in 2007 (the hotel’s tenth anniversary). Saturday 9 a. 225.60€ ($2).m. you can easily walk from the train station to all the attractions in the Altstadt (Old Town). Fax: 0341/140-3700. Tröndlinring 8. Richard-WagnerStrasse 1 (% 0341/710-4260. The rejuvenated bathrooms are nicely done and have a combination tub and shower. An on-site health club has a pool and a sauna. See map p. to 4 p. and the bathrooms all have tub/shower combinations. 04105 Leipzig.arabellasheraton.. www. Leipzig is the site of huge trade fairs that bring in tens of thousands of visitors. for 12€ ($15). Fares are based on zones. LVB (% 0172/1000000.lvb. and Sunday 9 a.S. reliable choice for leisure or business travelers (it tends to attract more business travelers because of the array of amenities and executive-level services it offers). You can purchase tickets from automated machines at the stops. An Einzelfahrkarte (single ticket) in “Zone Leipzig” costs 1.m. Rooms are comfortable and good-sized (with beds that beat the Westin’s for comfort).de). The tourist office offers a 90-minute city-sightseeing tour daily at 11 a.m. Rates: 265€– 300€ ($331–$375) double.m.m. and the breakfast buffet is great. and bus network. The commentary is in German only. The friendly.leipzig. or 0341/1400. Hotel Fürstenhof $$$$ City Center Housed in a historic 18th-century building. . www.m.226 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding information and taking a tour Pick up a city map at the tourist information office. but that’s the V. www. the public transit authority. to 6 p. usually the first week in September and the second week in March. within easy walking distance of the train station and just across from the new museum of fine arts. Staying in Leipzig Twice a year.

Kirche a el di elw hen er h ud tr. Hu Dantestr. Ka Al zn lagw . Engelsdorf S3 eri Re Köh Goerdelerring Augustus. Böhlitz-Ehrenberg Heisenbergstr.-Eisner-/ S1 Altes Messegelände A. O kt . Marienbrunn c Prager/Russenstr. Sc Fre Al Lü Sta St Viertelsweg P Sc Pittlerstr. Bahnhof 15 ee ee O . Wahren Heiterblick. 4 S-Bahn Prager/Riebeck Str. G ee Bf. Barnecker Str. Platz S-B Hohe Str.-Liebknecht-Platz e Pfingstweide Gorkistr.-Lehmann-Str.. Wittenberger Str. 2 An Sc uer Sc Südfriedhof 3 Mathildenstr.-H Str. S-Bf. Anger-Crottendorf S lle sst ena e-/ tr.-Schumann-/ Wilheminenstr. G Fe No str r A her Riebeck-/Oststr.-Lampel-Str. e e e e t h r a K. ns r Moritz-Hof 7 tte r ze tr. Strbf. Landsberger Str. H. Kreuz hw Str Völkerschlachtdenkmal pl. Chapter 14: Dresden. Ph. Stu höna to Connewitz. t n i t i b Landsberger/M. St st rst lle lst Str -St ge An den Tierkliniken us ta A. ue r. Leutzsch Bautzner Str. zs Menckestr. Ar t Roseggerstr. ke z . Wielandstr. vd ew isbahnhof h rk Lin A EdlichPlo Ki Am Sc Pa Grü Saa nn tsw nit str str. Markranstäder Str. Paunsdorfer Allee/ Fr. Teslastr. Schönefeld. u i Lößnig H he 8 w S tr. tr. eg z. p r Paunsdorf-Center f Volksgarten Wilh. Gohlis S-Bf. Hermelinstr. b M t s i a ö l . k zs or str eri 10 oß nd Ring ed ine i Gr Wi r.-Schmidt-Str. e le ue K. .Liebermann-Str. Dessauer Str.-Schwarz-/ n u he H s c H r ba Se Fr. r S Str.-Eisner Str.. S3 Rödelstr. Krankenhaus Thekla Bis er W .-Jahn-Str. Wiebelstr. Meu Str. Hohentichelnstr. en ue Ostplatz St ö tte r S r. e r r r r n n Str.-Liebknecht-/ Deutsche Bücherei 2 . m e e n S Strbf.nze Curschmannstr.-Hupfeld-Str. S-Bf. hk Mod Hän str. Körnerstr. and Weimar Wiederitzsch-Mitte Neue Messe Messegelände 16 GeorgDachauer Str. ar eg Eutritzsch. ch ud ler ha atz S-Bf. r z e F L 11 lit rk est Markkleeberg-West ö e D l w m e 12 r k u 9 se Se in pe as 13 hw tr. Marschner-C tze lsru M it z na r Stö aue est aus str. R b K. str Theresienstr.14 K. Elster-Passage S1 S Johannisallee Holbeinstr. h t Ku str. Mockau. resl eiß ath olm ötte . Forstweg e LindenG. .-Lehmann-Str. Annaberger Str. . r c fm Trams rf ka zm /G m tz M st ar er/R s K o e a a a e z . eis tr. R r i o H tt D tz K u sd R.-Schwarz-/L. B W R K St L -B Bayrischer S . Hamburger Schönefeld. An der Märchenwiese 6 . d u Gottschallc h s e m o m e ic ir h 1 S.Westplatz ten er Breite ke erh sstr ims euss ras Miltitz f e l L L g l F t o . Paunsdorf-Nord Paunsdorf-Nord Südstr. yg L. Hermelinstr. E s r Hauptl v Str. r Raschwitz Forsthaus Markleeberg. r r . Probstheida Triftweg S-Bf. str.-Hoffmann-/ Ad nn er-/ nnße se er r A atze bo y a r s l e e La per u e i . Coppiplatz Eutritzscher Zentrum 7 Friedrichshafner Str. lle Str erg Ri Ein Saturnstr.A ll f. h c c s ns 2 15 10 16 ho f 9 a e c Bahnhof Markkleeberg.-Segerr. Taucha s 12 n 14 Taucha ck 9 r e e a d Gohlislle m Beyerleinstr. 10 Eutritzscher Markt 11 Portitzer Allee Döringstr. .-Körner-Str. Pfeffingerstr. er / M f. Permoser/Torgauer c G. 12 1 Südplatz Stieglitzstr. Lützowstr.-Lehmann-/ ch Naunhofer Str.. Ku Zs Wiedebach.-Schumann-/ Möchern Hist. hk tzs ah tsc aetz Delitzscher/Essener Str.Jo pl r. Virchow-/ Mosenthinstr.-Reis-Str. g i r f t n t R. chb uer ee er A der S-Bf. Ahornstr. Diakonissenhaus s . R . tr. thaler Str. Ossietzky-/ a tr. . Paunsdorf. Post Taucha. . Karolusstr. Zwickauer Str. . Volbedingstr. . Chauseehaus Str. s u z ö Permoserstr. lat hn Str. Industriegelände West rs z a e t ch e S3 Hauptt . P -Platz S-B S-B Str. t Leuschner f f Stötteritzer Clara-Zetkin-Park B ü S Witzgallstr. ö K Na tr. f Merseburger Str. . K. u r s r platz S-Bf.-Liebknecht-/ S-Bf. Mockauer/Volbedingstr.Waldplatz Sportforum Leibnizstr. Hornbach Baumarkt e el Freiligrathstr. ritz rü ilti Wilh. G tz a ner A n Nord z itz z . Lortzinge M G. bahnhof m ist erts ieb L.Bar Merseburger aue rbrü Bf. Thomaskirche . tr. ke cher er t Str. Mockau. ma Ost Th. W lip c s i h E 11 14 ow Sc rg g m h r 3 A irc be be st Großstädteln. Sommerfeld Rathaus Leutzsch r S platz W t Am Mückenn nn n S-Bf. O. 1 n ie ar . Connewitz s 5 Wildpark Klemmur. a i e Kir ön al nau rlän Lindenau de ng To Wurzen Jupiterstr. u ta t Gohlis. Coppistr.-HoffmannK. Paunsdorf Borsdorf S-Bf. en diu Lind iet urg Heinßers t r n e i r t n a r e e r Gutenbergplatz n S n .-NA. G t . V l l l k k k 16 rk ut M a a Borna To S1 M 18 Kn 227 Leipzig S-Bahn . tzs gelKoburger Brücke 4 Hildebrandstr. 4 3 18 dt rm Herwegh-Str.A. t Meusdorf Parkstr. Rathaus Str rn S tr Apelstr. T. ns G. Sommerfeld tö ne -Eis .ie ll z ls te r tte Neues Rathaus He erse rit tr. ha Str. r a t a schlößchen a S m st l 8 15 Zoo 7 8 18 au rb Am Vorwerk -P -St tr. Völkerschlachtdenkmal R. L cke bein enb NordS-B ied Stallbaumstr. Leipzig.-Heine-/ le e Roßplatz Riebeck/ str.

Guests have a choice of the Historic Rooms (dinner only) or the Big Room (lunch and dinner). You can dine out on the porch in warm weather. and pork steaks. AE. DC. and within easy walking distance of all the sights in the Altstadt. V.S. and has room service. 225. www. 225. V.m. Auerbachs Keller $ –$$ SAXON/INTERNATIONAL A group of sculpted bronze characters from Goethe’s play Faust adorns the staircase leading down to this famous medieval cellar restaurant where Goethe had Faust debate Mephistopheles. MC. in a quiet Leipzig neighborhood close to the Altstadt. Dining in Leipzig More restaurants are opening in Leipzig all the time. 04109 Leipzig. but this city is not particularly well known for its culinary scene. Tram: 3. Rates include breakfast buffet. to midnight. or 0341/9880. Fax: 0341/988-1229. filling ingredients. Rates: 99€–164€ ($124–$205) double. V. Tram: 4. See map p. 8. such as . Tram: 4 or 6. Main courses: 7. roast duck with arugula.westin. but the old ones are comfortably furnished and have good-sized bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. Am Hallischen Tor 1. This full-service hotel contains a health club. DC. 04105 Leipzig. Open: Mon– Sat 11:30 a. Kolonnadenstrasse 2. pool. % 0341/ 225. 6. and Canada. MC. or 13. Reservations recommended. Apels Garten $ –$$ GERMAN/SAXON This restaurant. The décor is nostalgically oldfashioned. when Westin took over and began redecorating the 447 rooms in a sleek.m. The hotel is a convenient five-minute walk from the train station. It was an Inter-Continental hotel until 2003. The restaurant is named after one of the old pleasure gardens that used to adorn Leipzig.m. www.50€–16€ ($10–$20). Although more robust than refined. 11.–3:30 p. The restaurant Brühl serves traditional German food. is known for its home-style German food. See map p. with its painted ceiling. % 800-327-0200 in the U. Fax: 0341/965-3999. Gerberstrasse 15. MC.228 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. the 27-story Westin reflects the Leipzig of today. 10. and one of its finest modern hotels. contemporary style. Regional cooking favors hearty portions and simple. % 800/426-3135 in the U. or 0341/96530. Sun 10 a. The menu features regional cuisine of Saxony. while Yamato is one of the best places in Leipzig for Japanese food. Rates: 145€–235€ ($181–$294) double. Not all rooms have been upgraded (the new ones are on the highest floors). AE. The Westin Leipzig $$$ –$$$$ City Center One of the city’s tallest buildings. Specialties include Saxon potato soup with wurst.S. and sauna. the cuisine is good.

Exploring Leipzig Bombing in 1943 destroyed about one-quarter of Leipzig.m. % 0341/216-100. a famous arcade of shops and restaurants. Leipzig. See map p. Big Room daily 11:30 a. 225. easily walked area south of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Mädlerpassage. The only beer they serve is the Munich-brewed Paulaner Bier. housed in an 18th-century rococo building. to midnight. and Weimar 229 warmes Bratenneckchen (roasted pork on brown bread with a pepper dip). popular restaurant. To the south of Marktplatz is the Mädlerpassage. stands the yellow-and-white Alte Börse (Old Produce Exchange). Reservations recommended for dinner in Historic Rooms. Kids enjoy the underground atmosphere and usually can find something on the menu to their liking. Most of the old and the new Leipzig that has appeal for visitors is concentrated in the Zentrum (City Center). home of Auerbachs Keller (see “Dining in Leipzig” earlier in this chapter). (Peter the Great of Russia and Napoleon also stayed there. See map p. Across from this house. each offering the same menu. along with a selection of international dishes. AE. Tram: 4 or 6. a small. 225. Nicholas Church).Chapter 14: Dresden. with curving stairs and stucco garlands above the windows. but you can also get Saxon Sauerbraten. behind a statue of Goethe as a student. Open: Historic Rooms Mon–Sat 6 p. V. MC. Open: Daily 11 a. Renaissance Altes Rathaus. AE. Tram: 4 or 6. Grimmaischestrasse 2–4. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). where demonstrators for democracy gathered in 1989. DC. Weisswurst (steamed pork sausage) from Munich. The menu emphasizes boiled meats such as Tafelspitz (beef) with heavy sauces. Reconstructed on the north side of the square is the step-gabled Renaissance Alte Waage (Old Weighing House). where Bach served as choirmaster for 27 years. on the south side of the square.m. Remnants of old Leipzig have been reconstructed around the Markt. .) In the neighboring Naschmarkt. or Rostbratwurst (roasted sausages) from Nuremberg. A short walk leads to the pastel baroque houses along Katharinenstrasse and the Brühl. completed in 1687.000-year-old Thomaskirche (St. % 0341/211-3115. Klostergasse 3–5. To the west rises the high-pitched roof of the 1.m. The summer courtyard within the building is the nicest place to dine. Main courses: 8€–19€ ($10–$24). The Universität Leipzig (Leipzig University) occupies the area south of Grimmaisch-Strasse. Just east of the Marktplatz is the 12thcentury Nikolaikirche (St. Paulaner Palais $ GERMAN/BAVARIAN/AUSTRIAN This large. MC. has a restaurant and a more casual pub section. Thomas Church). once used by the rulers of Saxony as a royal guesthouse. V. to midnight. The city has placed more of an emphasis on constructing the new than on restoring the old. is the Königshaus (King’s House). gabled. Reservations recommended. to midnight. the city’s best-known square. the Alte Börse was the first baroque building in Leipzig. On the east side of the square is the long.

and stayed for the rest of his life. Tours: Fri 3 p. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. Johann Christian.bach-leipzig.m. the Passion According to St. and 3 p. Thomaskirchhof 16. 6€ ($7. the Grassi Museum. 13 with his second). jointed doll dating from 1526. the three museums in the Grassi complex are scheduled to reopen in 2007. www. to the east of the Nikolaikirche and the university.. including scores and letters.m. An excellent audio guide in English is included in the price of admission.–5 p. Tram: 21. After years of restoration. Every May. porcelain. friends of J. Bach wrote more than 200 cantatas. and the Mass in B Minor. See map p.. ߜ The Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum of Ethnography. during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche and other venues around town.m. Augustus-Platz. In Leipzig. Sun 11 a. are on display. You find beautiful examples of furniture. serves as the cultural heart of modern Leipzig. % 0341/964-4133. ethnography. You can see everything in this small museum in about half an hour. www. Carl Philipp Emanuel. Matthew. and Wilhelm Friedemann. The immense and not very attractive new opera house occupies the north side of the square. Three of his sons. % 0341/222-9100) displays an array of handmade objects from the Middle Ages up to the early 20th century. Bach was the father of no fewer than 17 children (4 by his first wife. 225. and musical instruments collections. The house now contains the largest Bach archive in Germany. and glassware. if you love Bach. Grassi Museum Completed in 1929. Many mementos of the composer. He came to Leipzig at the age of 38 to be choirmaster and director of the Thomaskirche’s boys’ choir and director of music at Leipzig University.m.m. S.bach-leipzig. on Johannis-Platz just east of the Zentrum. Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (% 0341/913-7333.230 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bach in Leipzig The composer Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750) is Leipzig’s most famous citizen. the Neues Gewandhaus concert hall stands on the south.m. you’ll be tempted to linger. Open: Daily 10 houses Leipzig’s arts and crafts. ߜ The Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Applied Arts Museum.50) family ticket. Look for the extremely rare. also became composers. Bach’s. Sat 2 p. % 0341/ 973-1900) displays highlights from the permanent collection of . Bach-Museum This reconstructed house standing in the shadow of the Thomaskirche once was home to the Bose

On the nights of December 4 and 5. Tram: 21. 225. Leipzig. but it also displays Dutch and Flemish art of the 17th century (including a lively Frans Hals).m. de. www. The museum is open late on Thursday (until 8 p. 21.25) adults. free on second Sun of the month. See map p.m. Johannisplatz 5–11. Nicholas Church) The present church was built in the 16th century and has a white. You may want to spend a few minutes here. German. Caspar David Friedrich). Open: Daily 10 a.grassimuseum. a group of 10.). Katharinenstrasse 101 (on Sachsenplatz). 17. neoclassical interior.m. Tram: 1. Museum in der Runden Ecke (Stasi Museum) This chillingly fascinating museum is housed in the building that once was the headquarters of the dreaded Stasi (short for Staatssicherheit. Dittrichring 24.–6 p. the East German Ministry for State Security. confiscating private letters and listening in on phone conversations. 10€ ($13) family ticket. Founded in 1837.50€ ($4. Open: Tues and Thurs–Sun 10 a.50) children and students. considered one of the best of its kind in the world. ߜ The Museum für Musikinstrumente (Musical Instruments Museum. A nice little cafe is located on the premises (open the same hours as the museum). 225. Bus: 8. (Wed noon to 8 % 0341/973-0750). See map p. % 0341/961-2443.m. one of Germany’s most important art collections reopened in a new $ 100-million glass-and-steel.–6 p. www.). but be aware that none of the exhibits are translated into English. and contemporary works. The new building is a serenely handsome affair that hasn’t quite caught on with the public adults. Admission: Free. European art of the 15th and 16th centuries. local citizens took a giant step toward toppling the government of East Germany when they seized this building. 4. www. 3. 15. or 24. Tram: 3. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m. cube-shaped building on Sachsenplatz. 61 years to the day after its original home was destroyed by a bomb in WWII. See map p. Nikolaikirche (St. 225. % 0341/21-69-90.000 demonstrators gathered with candles and began the peaceful revolution that toppled the . Allow at least an hour just to stroll through. you may find you’re the only person there. 6. Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) In late 2005.m. On this site in 1989. An exhibition called “The Power and Banality of the East German Secret Police” documents the meticulous and paranoid methods by which Stasi agents monitored every exchange of information in East Germany.runde-ecke-leipzig.–6 p. and French musical instruments of the 16th to the 19th centuries. and Weimar 231 cultural artifacts relating to the peoples of the world.m.m. Admission: Combined ticket for 2 museums 5€ ($6. Admission: 5€ ($6. mdbk. 1989. 2. or “state security”). Leipzig’s Museum of Fine Arts is especially strong in German painting of the 19th century (including works by that quintessential Romantic.Chapter 14: Dresden. exhibits Italian.

Open: Daily 9 a. cheeses. Sat–Sun 10 a. documents. and close at 10 p.m. with about 140 shops and cafes that open between 6:30 and 9 a. Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a tradition dating back to . on Saturday. The movement started as a prayer group in the Nikolaikirche in 1982. Thomaskirchhof 18 (just off Marktplatz).–6 p. Nikolaikirchhof. When it isn’t touring. lined with chic. Open: Tues–Fri 9 a. open Monday through Saturday. 6.. newsreels. Give yourself at least an hour. Bach wrote his great cantatas for the Thomanerchor. 11.m.m. and a bit of everything.–6 p. Its high-pitched roof dates from 1496. is a lively.232 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany GDR. 6. % 0341/22200. 6. 225. 4.m. Thomas Church) Leipzig’s most famous resident. 225. Grimmaische Strasse 6. Both Mozart and Mendelssohn also performed in the Thomaskirche.m. Admission: Free. was choirmaster in this church from 1723 until his death 27 years later. Tram: 4.m. the exhibit uses photos. Open daily in December in front of the Altes Rathaus.m. Open: Daily 8 a. Leipzig’s Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) recently was transformed into a giant shopping mall. the church’s famous boys’ choir. The Naschmarkt. or 13. meats. His body was moved here in 1950 on the 200th anniversary of his death and reburied in front of the altar. plants.m. and memorabilia to guide you through the tumultuous last half-century in eastern Germany. first organized in the 13th century. Thomaskirche (St. The church was built on the site of a 13thcentury monastery and was heavily restored after WWII and again after reunification. the choir presents concerts every Sunday morning and Friday evening. centrally located outdoor market that sells vegetables. what life was like in Communist East Germany. Tram: 2.m.–6 p. Set up chronologically. 15. Johann Sebastian Bach. Admission: Free. Shopping in Leipzig Exploring the handsomely restored Art Nouveau Arkaden (arcades) that thread through the historic core of Leipzig is fun.–5 p. Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) I recommend that anyone traveling to Leipzig visit this free multimedia exhibition. See map p. and Richard Wagner was christened here in 1813.m. on weekdays and 4 p. Described as a place of “living remembrance. and the events that triggered the fall of the GDR. 225. % 0341/960-2855. 8. East Germany’s Communist government. sophisticated. % 0341/960-5270. 10. Mädlerpassage is Leipzig’s finest arcade. Tram: 4. or 8. expensive boutiques.m. audio. Admission: Free. or 20.” the exhibit may help you better understand contemporary German history. See map p. See map p.

Mendelssohn. www. For a sampling of lively cafes. Augustusplatz (% 0341/127-0280. Special organ concerts and performances of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and Handel’s Messiah also take place. a 1. Some of the country’s most revered painters. Schubert. The Neues Gewandhaus. Bosestrasse 1 (% 0341/ 12680. 2. Founded in 1781. and composers made their homes in this small Thuringian town on the River Ilm.Chapter 14: Dresden. Leipzig’s main theater. The town is well known to architecture buffs. is the home of the world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra. Discovering nightlife in Leipzig Leipzig’s active nightlife offers something for everyone. 17. considered Germany’s greatest literary genius. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 45€ ($13–$56). a concert hall built in 1981. 4. The Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera) is one of Germany’s most acclaimed opera companies. beginning around 8 p. opposite the Neues Gewandhaus. the Schauspielhaus. great for people-watching. Weimar also is famous in the history of Germany. Mephisto Bar.–8 p. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 30€ ($12–$37). or 24).de.m. Ticket prices for opera and ballet range from 9€ to 60€ ($11–$75). writers. is the hippest bar and cafe in Leipzig. or 15). 15. Tram: 4. Leipzig. Tram: 4. is one of Germany’s greatest cultural shrines. just south of the Altes Rathaus. or 15). 5. 21. from opera and classical concerts to late-night bars and discos. which honors Goethe and the Faust legend. lived and worked in Weimar for 50 years. and other entertainment options.m. Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment Beautiful Weimar (vie-mar). 12. walk down Barfüssergässchen.m. Stalls (open daily 10 a. 13. 5. cafes. and Weimar 233 1767. the orchestra premiered works by Beethoven. because the German national assembly met here in 1919 to draw up the constitution for the ill-fated Weimar Republic. The area around the Markt is full of bars. 13. and Brahms. Its home is the Opernhaus. Mädlerpassage (% 0341/216-100. or spent portions of their creative lives here.000-year-old town that once was a center of the German Enlightenment. Augustusplatz 8 (% 0341/ 126-1261. because the first Bauhaus School of Art and Design was founded . 12. Live music is performed Thursday through sell a variety of craft items and Christmas food and drink. gewandhaus. Tram: 1. Attending a concert by this great orchestra is a special treat. is home to several arts companies that stage a mix of theatrical and musical productions in German. Germany’s first democratic government after World War I (WWI). Goethe. http://oper-leipzig. 6. Tram: 4 or 6).

new hotels have opened throughout Weimar. to 6 p. with a past guest roster that includes Bach. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. the Nazis established the concentration camp Buchenwald on the outskirts of this city. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. you can reach Weimar via the A4 Autobahn linking Frankfurt and Dresden. or the A9 Autobahn between Berlin and Munich. For rail information and schedules. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$$ –$$$$ City Center The Hotel Elephant is Weimar’s most famous hotel..50) for adults. Weimar is a joy to explore. Good train connections to Weimar’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) are available from anywhere in Germany. Weimar is an easy daytrip from Leipzig or Dresden. fronting Weimar’s picturesque marketplace. Getting there Weimar lies 262km (162 miles) southwest of Berlin. www.m. Tolstoy.m. in part because its old winding streets are sprinkled with the homes (now museums) of famous figures. and 2 p. 118km (74 miles) southwest of Leipzig.234 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany here in 1919. often in historic buildings. even Hitler. Finding information and taking a tour Tourist-Information am Markt. Leipzig. you may want to spend the night.m. the price is 6€ ($7. By car. The elegant late-17th-century facade. turning off at Hermsdorfer Kreuz for Weimar. and Dresden. Markt 10 (% 03643/7450.m. call % 11861 or visit the Deutsche Bahn Web site (www. in the town’s central marketplace. The meeting point is the tourist information office. Enough of old Weimar remains to give you a good sense of what the town was like when Goethe lived there.bahn. de).de).m. children younger than 14 free. Fast InterCity Express (ICE) trains run from Frankfurt. is available free. Unlike Dresden and Leipzig. Takt. 4€ ($5) for students. The tourist offices listed earlier under “Finding information and taking a tour” also can help you find a hotel room or pension.weimar. During WWII. Weimar was not completely destroyed by bombs in WWII. and Weimar is a stop on the InterRegio express train between Frankfurt and Berlin. hides a stylishly . the local entertainment listings magazine. to 3 p. Staying in Weimar Since reunification. but because Weimar offers plenty to see. The tourist office offers a two-hour walking tour (in German) of Weimar daily at 10 a. and 215km (134 miles) southwest of Dresden.m. Buy tickets at the tourist office.

Be lv e R. tst old Ama nech t ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Hotel Kaiserin Augusta 1 DINING Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Zum Schwarzen Bären 7 Haus k rastr Coud Fr.4 Deutsches platz 5 M ar le rst 6 LucasRathaus i Markt CranachHaus 7 se k t stras Sc h Burgplatz Stern Brück e Ilm l os Sch ube rtstr asse Ilm Acker-w Ma rien trass e and Corona-Schroter Str. To Train Station 1 0 0 1/10 mile 100 meters Jakobstraß e knech tstrass e N s aer Str a s Jen K.Chapter 14: Dresden. Peter und Paul HerderEisfeld sse lKege e c rü B k asse Eng els Ri Leibn izalle e Sch il r a s se Puschk Stub enst rass 9 Pl.-F W rell ag igra ne th str. Breitsc heidstr.- Goetheplatz Graben Karlstra Stadtkirche St. and Weimar 235 Weimar F. 2 Erf urt er Str ass Nationaltheater e 3 Theater. rg as se Brüh l WEIMARHALLENPARK To Buchenwald Frieden str. 8 8 Demokratie or n Am H instr. Lieb Schwa nseestr Rollplatz asse Johannis kirche e e-stras se H -He i n platz s -g . 12 Berlin GERMANY Weimar liens CEMETERY Goethe-Schiller Mausoleum Str. Leipzig. Information i ATTRACTIONS Bauhaus-Museum 3 Goethes Gartenhaus 10 Goethes Wohnhaus & Goethe Nationalmuseum 9 Liszt-Haus 11 Schillers Wohnhaus 6 Schloss Belvedere 12 Schlossmuseum 2 Weimar Haus– Das Geschichtserlebnis 4 Wittumspalais 5 de A rer e lle . e 10 ng Bauhaus Universität Weimar 11 PARK K A R AN D E R ILM str. mb Hu r. d.

arabellasheraton. a dress-up sort of place with beautifully set tables. 11. Dining in Weimar As with Leipzig. some new restaurants with savvier cooking and better ingredients have opened. Breakfast costs an additional 18€ ($ 22). MC. make use of local produce and ingredients. Fax: 03643/802-610. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$ –$$$ GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Weimar’s oldest hotel has two restaurants. Rates include buffet breakfast. Main courses: Anna Amalia 16€–26($20–$32). most have a tub/shower combination. www. 235. and good service. a garden Am Markt 19. or 71. with pearwood furniture and Art Deco styling. but they are fully equipped.m. V. Since reunification. 235. Hotel Kaiserin Augusta $ –$$ City Center This good. Am Markt 19. DC.hotel-kaiserin-augusta. 11. a place for casual dining in a rustic atmosphere. Its Italian dishes. or 71. 235. moderately priced hotel sits right across the street from the train station. 99423 Weimar. Anna Amalia is modern and airy.. 99423 Weimar. See map p. Rates: 169€–235€ ($211–$293) double. Rates: 77€–139€ ($96–$174) double.m. % 03643/2340. convenient. Fax: 03643/234444. Elephantenkeller 6€–16€ ($7–$20). however. See map p. and very well maintained.m. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. comfortable. and 6–11 p. when Weimar’s famous Zwiebelmarkt (onion market) is open (a tradition dating back to 1653). Down one flight of steps is the historic Elephantenkeller (Elephant Cellar). among the best in the region. Otherwise. try local specialties such as sweet-and-sour Thuringian pot roast with dumplings or Thuringian-style grilled bratwurst on sauerkraut with puréed peas. Weimar is not a city renowned for its culinary past. Bathrooms are small and have showers only. % 03643/802-639. See map p. Reservations recommended. The staff is friendly. The 99 rooms come in different sizes but are furnished basically the same. DC. Carl-August-Allee 17. and the buffet breakfast is good. MC. www. In October. AE. V. V. AE. this restaurant serves specialty onion salads. Bus: 10. Open: Anna Amalia daily 6:30–10:30 p. % 03643/8020. The 134 rooms are not large or luxurious.236 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany contemporary interior. . Bus: 10. Bathrooms are large. Elephantenkeller Thurs–Tues noon to 3 a.

Surrounding the Altstadt is the newer Weimar. 11. particularly the playwright Friedrich Schiller. The collection of Bauhaus memorabilia includes rugs. but you can get a good. Markt. so you can see everything in about half an hour. Markt 20.50€ ($5. Nothing is fancy about it. hefty meal for a reasonable cost. His mother. which were referred to as the “Court of the Muses.Chapter 14: Dresden.m. 235. which brought a new. % 03643/853-847. The Altstadt (Old City). Duchess Anna Amalia. Dishes include potato soup with sausage. treelined boulevards and many 19th-century buildings. 5. V.–6 p. this restaurant is Weimar’s oldest.” Thanks to Goethe and his friends. 2. with its large park.m. and pork medallions with Gorgonzola sauce.50) seniors and students. the work for which he is most famous. Admission: 4. Theaterplatz. the little duchy of Weimar gained renown as a center of the German Enlightenment (Erklärung). Goethe’s fame rested on the novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. remains the lively heart of the old city. or 7. Exploring Weimar Weimar enjoys a scenic location on the Ilm River. the architect Walter Gropius. and toys collected by the school’s director. 3. In Weimar. or 71. wanted to surround himself with clever. which had become a sensation throughout Europe for its depiction of a suffering. with broad. Zum Schwarzen Bären $ THURINGIAN Located next door to the Hotel Elephant. has many historic sights.50) adults. % 03643/564-161. Goethe’s patron. architectural drawings. MC. The museum is fairly compact. Duke Karl. See map p. entertaining people. rumpsteak. . and Weimar 237 Goethe and the court of Weimar In 1775. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832) was invited to the duchy of Weimar by the teenaged Duke Karl August. set the tone for the salons. furniture. Bus: 10. Bus: 1. Open: Daily 11 a. See map p.50€ ($4.m. 3. Leipzig. an important architect-designer of Art Nouveau. tea sets. Main courses: 7€–15€ ($9–$19). all of which you can easily see on foot. 235. classically inspired rationalism to German art and literature. 6. Goethe wrote the play Faust. set against the backdrop of the Ettersberg and Vogtland hills. schnitzel with potatoes. to midnight. the town’s main square. which was founded in Weimar in 1919 and sought to unify arts and crafts within the context of architecture. Bauhaus-Museum The focus of this museum is the Bauhaus movement. suicidal artist. One room showcases the work of Henry van de Velde. Open: Daily 10 a.

when he was 82 years old. % 03643/545-375.m. You can see the interior. Bus: 1. located just up the street from Goethe’s house. Admission: 2. 5.50€ ($3). Tours (in German): Tues and Fri at 1 p. filled the house with casts of ancient busts and statues. enlarged in the 17th century. from 1802 to 1805. was Goethe’s first residence when he came to Weimar in 1775 as a guest of Duke Karl August. The house is part of the adjoined Goethe National Museum. Believing that colors affect mood. See map p. Letters and other personal and musical mementos also are on view. You need about half an hour to see everything. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe House) and Goethe Nationalmuseum The large baroque house where Goethe lived from 1782 to 1832 is Weimar’s most popular attraction. See map p.50€ ($3) students and children. and designed special cabinets to display his Italian majolica plates. but the museum requires a separate admission. some of them pretty much as Goethe and his wife.m. longer if you’re a Goethe fan. Bus: 1. 5€ ($6. and reconstructed in 1996 according to the plans of 1820.m. See map p. Goethe had his dining room painted a sunny yellow. which has a few pieces of period furniture. Goethe used the house as a summer retreat.40) adults. Open: Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. 235. He lived with his family in this house. located in the bucolic park on the Ilm River. you find more Goethe memorabilia.50€ ($8) adults. Frauenplan 1. 10. 235. 6. Admission: House and museum 6. Open: House and museum daily 9 a. In the museum. 2.50) students and children younger than 12. the Hungarian composer and most famous pianist of the 19th century. 10.m. spent the last period of his life in this house located at the west entrance of Park an der Ilm.25) students and seniors.m. Marienstrasse 17. Displayed in the redcarpeted salon are one of Liszt’s pianos and the portable clavichord he used to exercise his fingers while he was traveling. The structure was built as a garden house in the 16th century. % 03643/545-388. left them. he replaced the baroque staircase with broad stairs in the style of the Italian Renaissance. The house has 14 rooms. an audio guide in English is available. Im Park an der Ilm. 1832. When Goethe returned from Italy. Liszt gathered young musicians around him in the high-ceilinged. or 12. and his reception room a calming blue. or 8. Goethe died in his sparsely furnished bedchamber on March 22.m. handsomely furnished rooms. Liszt-Haus Franz Liszt. 235. Friedrich von Schiller (1759–1805) is the greatest name in German literature. 2.–6 p.. Admission: 3. overflowing with enthusiasm for all things Italian.50€ ($4. Bus: 1.–6 p. 2. or 12.m. 2€ ($2.50€ ($3) adults. % 03643/545-320. The house is .–6 p. Schillers Wohnhaus (Schiller House) After his friend Goethe. in less than 15 minutes.238 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Goethes Gartenhaus (Goethe’s Garden House) This simple stone cottage with a high-pitched roof. Throughout his life. his study a soothing green. Christiane. Open: Daily 10 a.

% 03643/546-162.50€ ($2) children. Bus: 12. Wax figures created by artists who worked for London’s Madame Tussaud. 3. baroque château located 3km (2 miles) south of Weimar. See map p. Open: Daily. See map p. Orangerie 2€ ($2.–6 p. % 03643/545-350.Chapter 14: Dresden.m. Orangerie Jan–Apr Wed–Sun 11 a.25) students. 8. including Wilhelm Tell (William Tell). 235. 2. theater sets. Nov–Mar 10 a. and other famous names associated with Weimar. Leipzig. The orangerie displays a collection of historical coaches. 2. Burgplatz 4.m. Goethe. 5. Nov–Mar 9 a. or 6. Belvedere Palace was a favorite retreat of Duchess Anna Amalia and her son’s “enlightened” Weimar court. Open: Palace Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a.. begun in 1789 and completed in 1803. 5. you find a collection of decorative art from the rococo period.–6 p. The museum has a series of galleries dedicated to Schiller. Of more general interest are the painting galleries containing important works by Lucas Cranach the Elder (including a portrait of Martin Luther). 3€ ($3.m. Give yourself about 45 minutes to wander through the galleries.–4 p. Bus: 1. Open: Wed–Mon Apr–Oct 9 a.m. Schillerstrasse 12.. through the time of Goethe. or 8.50€ ($8) adults. 6. winter 10 a. Admission: 6.m. 5.. Tours (in German): Mon 1 p. Bus: 1. 1. See map p. Schiller wrote his last works.m. Inside the château.50) adults.m.C.75) children. Admission: 3. In the attic rooms. audio guides in English are available. Schlossmuseum (Castle Museum) This neoclassical structure.000 B. Flemish and Italian paintings. students. You can wander through the entire house in about 15 minutes.50€ ($4. 5. You can visit both in about two hours. Weimar Haus–Das Geschichtserlebnis (Weimar House–The Weimar Story) This multimedia attraction provides a basic introduction to Weimar’s history. and Weimar 239 furnished as it would have been in Schiller’s day.m.. % 03643/546-160. Bus: 1.50€ ($3).m. 4€ ($6) children. . and Napoleon. or 10. Admission: Palace 4€ ($5) adults.m. See map p.. Schloss Belvedere (Belvedere Palace) A pretty. 7. The English-style park was laid out between 1814 and 1840.m.m. Luther. summer 10 a. 1€ ($1.–4 p. 6. Belvederer Allee.50€ ($7) seniors. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a.25) adults.m. replaced the royal castle that burned down in 1774.m.50) adults. 2. Admission: 5€ ($6. % 03643/901-890. Schiller.–6 p.m. and expressionist paintings by Max Beckmann and Max Lieberman.–4 p. 235. 2.m. 3. and videotaped projections help tell Weimar’s story from the earliest settlers in 3. and children. 235.50€ ($3.10) seniors.–7 p. Schillerstrasse 16–18. 235. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. 4.m.–6 p.

The museum reflects both the Soviet and the Nazi past of the camp. doctors. which leads to places associated with the great poet. is the oldest town in the region and the capital of Thuringia. and art. the “Widow’s Palace” was the residence of the widowed Dowager Duchess Anna Amalia. Bus: 1. Exploring the Thuringian Forest Weimar sits in the northeastern corner of the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest). See map p. to 6 p. poets.m.m. and costumes. Later.” Wittumspalais A short walk along Schillerstrasse from the Schiller House leads to the elegant Wittumspalais (vit-ooms-pa-lay). % 03643/4300). and philosophers met to discuss issues of science. who presided over a “Court of the Muses. To reach the memorial. prisoners of war.25) adults. in beech woods (Buchenwald) where Goethe and Schiller once walked. Erfurt.” where artists.. Tuesday to Sunday from 8:45 a. You can visit Buchenwald May through September. 6 from Weimar’s main train station makes the trip northwest of town to Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial.m.m. Between 1945 and 1951. honors the people from 32 nations who lost their lives at Buchenwald. If you want to explore this picturesque area by car. The house.75) students and children.). % 03643/545-377. spruce-clad mountains rise to about 985m (3. political prisoners. 235.m.S. take Bus No. and many thousands of others were sent from here to death camps in the east. 5. a 110km (68-mile) . Tuesday to Sunday from 9:45 a. Admission is free.m. The Nazis confined about a quarter of a million Jews. thought. 3€ ($3. and others in this work camp from 1937 until the camp’s liberation by the U. to 5 p. has an extensive collection of paintings. devoted to mementos of the German Enlightenment.m. A memorial with a cluster of “larger than life” people.000 people died at Buchenwald. Nov–Mar 10 a.240 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Buchenwald: Remembering the past About 10km (6 miles) from Weimar.m. old castles crown the tops of hills. representing victims of fascism.. and dozens of picturesque medieval villages dot the narrow. Completed in 1767. homosexuals. Theaterplatz. October through April. winding roads. Army in 1945. the Soviets sent thousands of prisoners here to die. silhouettes (all the rage back then). 4. Bus No. or 6.–4 p. Gypsies. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. Slavs. 2. At least 56. Soviet occupation forces also used the site as an internment camp. once the home of Johann Sebastian Bach. 3. Within the forest. one of the great cities of German art and culture. is the starting point of a popular hiking trail known as Auf Goethes Spuren (In Goethe’s Footsteps).225 ft. 22km (14 miles) west of Weimar. long extolled by nature lovers for its scenic beauty. 6 marked “Buchenwald.– 6 p. the site of the camp. Just south of Erfurt is picturesque Arnstadt. the Nazis set up one of their nightmare concentration camps. Admission: 4€ ($5. Ilmenau. a lively university town south of Arnstadt.

and Weimar 241 scenic road called the Thuringer Hochstrasse (Thuringian High Road) runs from Eisenach to Ilmenau. . You find a good selection to choose from along Schillerstrasse and around Theaterplatz. selling books only. where Franz Liszt and Richard Strauss once conducted. The most interesting shops include Antikitäten am Palais. and its immediate neighbor. Goethe-Antiquariat. Bräuhausgasse 15 (% 03643/402-540). and furniture that survived the devastation of WWII. silver. in 1919. prices range from 8€ to 35€ ($10–$37). dance. Discovering nightlife in Weimar Weimar’s main performance venue is the Deutsches Nationaltheater (German National Theater). the National Congress passed the new democratic constitution that was the basis for the short-lived Weimar Republic. Weimar’s bars and outdoor cafes are good places to drink and talk into the night. and concerts at the tourist information centers or the theater box office. Schillerstrasse 22 (% 03643/59625). crystal. Theaterplatz (% 03643/755-334). Kaufenstrasse 7 (% 03643/402-567). Obereschlossgasse 2 (% 03643/512-993). Schillerstrasse 22 (same phone). Leipzig. (This building is also where. Shopping in Weimar A visit to Weimar’s antiques stores offers a chance to buy porcelain. Kaiser Antikitäten. and Thiersch Antikitäten.) You can buy tickets for opera.Chapter 14: Dresden. Also appealing are Antikitäten am Schloss.

242 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .

Part IV Southern and Western Germany .

Chapter 20 is all about Frankfurt. I describe additional sightseeing possibilities in Bavaria. the sophisticated city with the huge international airport that is the German port of entry for many international visitors. famed for its woodcarvers. with its picturesque corners and Gothic churches. I tell you about boat trips through the river’s most scenic stretches. Germany’s most famous walled medieval city. or Black Forest. and Neuschwanstein. S In this part . You find everything you need to know about Germany’s secret capital: how to get there and get around. the romantic town on the Neckar River. including the Romantic Road. I devote Chapter 15 entirely to Munich. the beautiful capital of Bavaria.outhern Germany is different from other regions in Germany. Stuttgart. and what to see. an ideal driving tour loaded with unspoiled medieval towns. In Chapter 17. I highlight lovely Lake Constance. and the Schwarzwald. Chapter 18 covers three cities in western and central Germany: Heidelberg. Chapter 19 is all about Cologne (Köln in German). home to the cities of Freiburg and Baden-Baden. the cultural capital of southwest Germany. Going beyond Munich. as you discover in this part. in Chapter 16. . and Nuremberg (Nürnberg in German). I also tell you about visiting the alpine resort towns of GarmischPartenkirchen and Oberammergau. Western Germany includes the popular and populous Rhineland region and many famous cities that are easy to reach and fun to explore. the most dramatic of Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castles. and must-see attractions such as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. bucolic scenery. one of the most scenically delightful areas in all of Deutschland. . In case you’re eager to ride the Rhine. a lively city on the Rhine famous for its spectacular Gothic cathedral. known as the Bodensee in Germany. Easy day trips from Cologne include the wine-growing regions of the Mosel Valley and the Rheingau section of the Rhine Valley. . how to find a fine hotel or restaurant.

sunny day or a balmy night and you see people sitting outside. Munich offers so much to visitors that I recommend you give yourself at least three days here. and revelry. Munich also is a rich. Before Lent. . and have a good time. concert halls. one of those hard-to-translate words that means something like cozy and/or good-natured.Chapter 15 Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Munich ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Discovering the top attractions ᮣ Shopping for fashions. Think of Gemütlichkeit as a kind of cozy charm and you’ll get the picture. World-class museums. people gather in the giant beer halls and beer gardens to quaff liters of beer. sophisticated city. Walk through the Altstadt (Old Town) on a warm. If you believe the polls. food. Munich is the Germans’ first choice as a desirable place to live. starts in September and lasts for 16 days. Many Germans — especially the 1. in every square. which attracts some 7 million revelers. is a town that likes to celebrate. with an unparalleled array of artistic and cultural treasures. and theaters are part and parcel of life in the Bavarian capital. Oom-pah-pah aside. the city goes into party mode again and celebrates Fasching (Carnival). Oktoberfest. the capital of Bavaria. and more ᮣ Enjoying Munich’s nightlife M unich (München. eating. and enjoying life. palaces. drinking. The city is all about prosperity and good-natured Gemütlichkeit. in German). elegant. masked balls. listen to the oom-pah-pah bands. Throughout the year. pronounced Mewn-shin. from January through February. a whirl of colorful parades.5 million people who live in Munich — think of the city as Germany’s secret capital.

Opened in 1992.” Getting There As one of Germany’s major cities. open daily from 7 a. Trains leave from the S-Bahn platform beneath the airport every 20 minutes daily between 4:02 a.246 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The little monk of Munich In the ninth century.m.10€ ($1. The Lufthansa Airport Bus (% 089/323-040) also runs between the airport and the main train station in Munich every 20 minutes from 5:10 is located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. The S-8 S-Bahn (% 089/4142-4344) train connects the airport with the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in downtown Munich. the airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world. % 11861 for train information and schedules [an English speaker will be available to help you]. you can also call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail.” Since that time. restaurants. and banking facilities. so you can fly there directly from the United States. to 7:50 p. is one of Europe’s largest train stations. 1. Munich has an international airport.m.. www. Munich’s Hauptbahnhof.25) for children.m. A taxi to the city center costs about 70€ ($87) and can take more than an hour if traffic is heavy.m. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. or “little monk. .. Munich has no lack of transportation options. Munich’s coat of arms has included a figure of the Münchner Kindl. 5€ ($6. with a hotel. German for “monk. a small village located near a Benedictine abbey on the river Isar called itself Mönch.m. By train You can easily reach Munich by train from any city in Germany or Europe. and 10:42 a.50) children. to 8 p. Daily trains arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 33⁄4 hours) and Berlin (trip time: 7 hours).40€ ($10) adults.bahn. www. Like Frankfurt. By plane Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss International Airport (% 089/9752-1313.munich-airport. less frequently through the night. You find a train information office on the mezzanine level. The city is easily accessible from anywhere within Germany or Europe. The fare for the 40-minute trip is 8. Connected to the rail station are the city’s extensive S-Bahn rapid-transit system and the U-Bahn (subway) on Bahnhofplatz near the city center. shopping.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


By car
I do not recommend driving in Munich. Most of downtown is a pedestrian-only area — wonderful if you’re a walker, a nightmare if you’re a driver. Traffic jams are frequent, and parking spaces are elusive and costly. If you plan on making excursions into the countryside, renting a car in the city center instead of trekking out to the airport is more convenient. Car-rental companies with windows at the main train station include Avis (% 089/1260-000), Hertz (% 089/1295-001), and Sixt Autovermietung (% 089/550-2447).

Finding Information After You Arrive
Munich’s tourist office, Fremdenverkehrsamt München (% 089/23396500;, operates a tourist information center in the main train station (Bahnhofplatz 2, adjacent to the DER Reisebüro/ German Rail Travel Office). You can pick up a map of Munich, get information on cultural events, and book a hotel room. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. You find another branch of the tourist office in the city center at Marienplatz in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); hours are Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can make a hotel reservation online or at the main tourist office.

Orienting Yourself in Munich
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is an oval-shaped pedestrian-only district on the west bank of the Isar River. (See the “Munich Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.) Munich’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) lies just west of the Altstadt. Marienplatz, the Altstadt’s most important square, is where you find several important churches, the Residenz (former royal palace), the National Theater, and the Viktualienmarkt, a wonderfully lively outdoor market. Between Marienplatz and the National Theater is the Platzl quarter, famed for its nightlife, restaurants, and the landmark Hofbräuhaus, the most famous beer hall in the world. Odeonsplatz, to the north of Marienplatz, is Munich’s most beautiful square. Running west from Odeonsplatz is Briennerstrasse, a wide shopping avenue that leads to Königsplatz (King’s Square). Flanking this large square, in an area known as the Museum Quarter, are three neoclassical buildings constructed by Ludwig I and housing Munich’s antiquities: the Propyläen, the Glyptothek, and the Antikensammlungen. Another triad of world-famous art museums — the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Masters Gallery), and the Pinakothek Moderne Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art) — also lie in the Museum Quarter, just northeast of Königsplatz.

248 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Munich Neighborhoods


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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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250 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Ludwigstrasse connects the Altstadt with Schwabing, a former artists’ quarter located north of the Altstadt and known for its cafes, restaurants, and nightlife. Olympiapark, site of the 1972 Olympics, is northwest of Schwabing. The sprawling park known as the Englischer Garten is located east of Schwabing. East of the Isar River lie Bogenhausen and Haidhausen, leafy neighborhoods just outside the city center where you find some hotels and restaurants. Theresienwiese, site of the annual Oktoberfest, and Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace), one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces, are both located west of the Altstadt.

Getting Around Munich
Munich is a large city, only slightly smaller than Berlin or Hamburg. The best way to explore is by walking and using the excellent publictransportation system. Subways (U-Bahn), trams (Strassenbahn), buses, and light-rail lines (S-Bahn) make getting anywhere in the city easy. In the Altstadt, you can walk to all the attractions — in fact, you have to, because the Altstadt is a car-free zone. For information, call the publictransportation authority, MVV, at % 089/4142-4344, or visit it on the Web at

Using public transportation
You’ll probably use the underground U-Bahn (subway) and the aboveground Strassenbahn (tram) systems most frequently. The same ticket entitles you to ride U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses. Purchase tickets from vending machines marked Fahrkarten in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations; the machines display instructions in English. You also can buy tickets in the tram or from a bus driver. Tickets must then be validated in the machines found on platforms and in buses and trams; stick your ticket into the machine, which stamps it with the date and time. A validated ticket is valid for two hours. You can transfer as often as you like to any public transportation as long as you travel in the same direction. Munich has four concentric fare zones. Most, if not all, of your sightseeing will take place in Zone 1, which includes the city center. A single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) in Zone 1 costs 2.20€ ($2.75). The München Welcome Card, available at either Fremdenverkehrsamt München tourist information center, lets you ride all public transportation and offers discounts of up to 50 percent off on major tourist attractions and city tours. A tageskarte (day ticket) good for a day of travel within the city limits costs 6.50€ ($8) for adults, 2.30€ ($3) for children 6 to 14. A 3-tageskarte (three-day ticket) costs 12€ ($15). A partner 3-tageskarte, a three-day ticket good for two people traveling together, costs 20€ ($25). You can buy these cards from the ticket vending machines or at station ticket windows.

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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn






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252 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Catching a cab
Taxis are cream-colored, plentiful, and expensive. You can get a taxi at one of the stands located all across the city, or you can hail a cab on the street if its rooftop light is illuminated. Taxi fares begin at 2.70€ ($3.50); each additional kilometer costs 1.25€ to 1.60€ ($1.60–$2), depending on the distance; there’s an additional 1€ ($1.25) to order a taxi by phone. Call Taxizentrale at % 089/21610 for a radio-dispatched taxi.

Staying in Style
Hotels in Munich are more expensive than elsewhere in Germany, and rooms are scarce (and prices much higher) during Oktoberfest and when trade fairs are in town. I strongly recommend that you book your Munich hotel room in advance. I’ve weighted my choices toward hotels in central Munich. The highest prices in this section are for rooms during Oktoberfest and trade fairs. The Fremdenverkehrsamt (tourist office) in the main train station (see the “Finding Information After You Arrive” section earlier in this chapter) can book a room for you and give you a map with instructions for reaching it. The service is free, but the office collects a 10 percent deposit of the total value of the room; the hotel then deducts this amount from your bill. For locations, see the “Central Munich Accommodations and Dining” map in this chapter.

The top hotels
Here you can find a variety of great hotels. See also the listing for the outstanding Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München ($$$$) in Chapter 22.

Advokat Hotel
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt
You don’t find frills or froufrou in this streamlined 50-room hotel in a 1930s apartment building. The Advokat is strictly minimalist in approach and has an understated elegance. The rooms are medium-sized, with clean, simple furnishings. Each room comes with a compact bathroom, most with tub and shower. See map p. 254. Baaderstrasse 1, 80469 München. % 089/21-63-10. Fax: 089/216-3190. S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk south on Zweibrücken Strasse and west on Baaderstrasse). Rates: 155€–275€ ($194–$344) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit An der Oper
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt


This five-story hotel, dating from 1969, is wonderfully situated for sightseeing and shopping in the Altstadt. The décor is basic modern without being particularly distinguished. The 68 rooms are on the small side but have double-glazed windows and a small sitting area. The bathrooms are small, too, and come with a shower. See map p. 254. Falkenturmstrasse 11 (just off Maximilianstrasse, near Marienplatz), 80331 München. % 089/290-0270. Fax: 089/2900-2729. www.hotelanderoper. com. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater stop (then a 5-minute walk south on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Falkenturmstrasse). Rates: 150€–235€ ($187–$294) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

$$ –$$$$ Near Train Station
If you want a nice place right across the street from the train station, this is the best. From the outside, this large hotel looks a bit austere, but the interior has been redone with a pleasantly modern look. Most of the 211 rooms are fairly large, and all are decorated in a comfortable, unobtrusive style. Bathrooms are larger than average, with tub and shower. One child younger than age 6 is allowed to stay free in a parent’s room; for an additional child, an extra bed can be rented for 42€ ($52). See map p. 254. Arnulfstrasse 4, 80335 München. % 089/551-150. Fax: 089/5511-5555. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is opposite the north side of the train station). Rates: 139€–282€ ($174–$352) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gästehaus Englischer Garten
$ –$$$ Schwabing
This 25-room guesthouse near the Englischer Garten is quiet, charming, and an excellent value. The rooms are small to medium in size and decorated with a homey mixture of antiques, old-fashioned beds, and Oriental rugs. The bathrooms are small, with showers only. You can save a few euros by renting one of the six rooms that share bathrooms. In an annex across the street are 15 small apartments, each with a bathroom and a kitchenette. Breakfast costs an extra 9€ ($11); on nice mornings, you can eat outside in the back garden. See map p. 254. Liebergesellstrasse 8, 80802 München-Schwabing. % 089/383-9410. Fax: 089/3839-4133. U-Bahn: Münchener Freiheit (then a 10-minute walk east on Haimhäuserstrasse to Erninger Platz and east on Liebergesellstrasse). Rates: 68€–120€ ($85–$150) double without bathroom; 114€–180€ ($142–$225) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

254 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Central Munich Accommodations and Dining
ACCOMMODATIONS Advokat Hotel 37 Am Markt 35 An der Oper 26 Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 13 Eden-Hotel-Wolff 3 Gästehaus Englischer Garten 16 Hotel Bristol München 8 Hotel Exquisit 7 Hotel Jedermann 4 Hotel Mark 10 Hotel Olympic 9 Hotel Opera 41 Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel 44 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München 40 Königshof 11 Königswache 1 Mandarin Oriental 30 München City Hilton 38 Platzl Hotel 33 Splendid-Dollman 43 DINING Alois Dallmayr 23 Augustiner Grossgaststätte 12 Austernkeller 39 Biergarten Chinesischer Turm 18 Boettner 24 Buon Gusto Talamonti 29 Donisl 21 La Galleria 32 Gandl 42 Gasthaus Glockenbach 6 Gaststätte zum Flaucher 36 Georgenhof 15 Hunsinger’s Pacific 14 Hofbräuhaus am Platzl 27 Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom 19 Pfistermühle 33 Prinz Myshkin 20 Ratskeller München 22 Rossi 28 Spatenhaus 25 Tantris 17 Times Square Online Bistro 5 Zum Alten Markt 34
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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


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comfortable furnishings. V. AE. shower-only bathrooms. About half of them overlook a pretty garden. MC. See map p. % 089/5999-3902. Hotel Jedermann $ –$$$ Near Train Station Jedermann means “everyman. later in this chapter). See map p. Pettenkoferstrasse 3.256 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hotel Bristol München $ –$$ Altstadt Built around 1960 and renovated in Fax: 089/ 5519-9499. 67€–149€ ($84–$186) double with bathroom. The small bathrooms contain tiled showers. 80336 München. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 3-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). The hotel is attached to the famous Augustiner beer hall and restaurant (see the “Dining Out” section. AE. 14 newly redecorated rooms have air-conditioning.hotel-exquisit. % 089/ Bayerstrasse 95. The 56 rooms are fairly small. This pleasant. Rates include breakfast. Cheaper rooms with in-room showers but toilets down the hall also are available. family-friendly prices (including cribs and cots. is located on a quiet residential street in the heart of Munich. 254. and you can check your e-mail on the computer in the lobby. . www. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC.hotel-jedermann. See map p. Hotel Exquisit $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. request one that faces the courtyard. appealing hotel. adjoining rooms. Tram: 19 to Herman-Lingg-Strasse (the stop across from the hotel). this efficient. MC. V. built in 1988 in the same vicinity as the Hotel Bristol München (see the preceding listing). modern hotel is a congenial. 80335 München. The 50 rooms are large and comfortably furnished in an old-fashioned German style. family-run hotel offers a central location and 55 comfortable rooms. serene. Rates include breakfast. 254. most with roomy. The hotel serves a generous breakfast buffet. with simple. Rates: 99€–150€ ($123–$187) double. www. % 089/551-9900. Fax: 089/5432-4111. convenient place to stay in central Munich. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 10-minute walk west on Bayerstrasse from south exit). DC. For a quieter room. Pettenkoferstrasse 2. The staff here is unusually pleasant and helpful.” and that translates here into affordable. 254. Rates: 170€–250€ ($212–$312) double.bristol-munich. Fax: 089/ 5999-3994. Rates: 57€–86€ ($71–$107) double without bathroom. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 5-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). Bathrooms are compact and have showers. 80336 München. V. and babysitting).

V. and several gay bars and cafes are located nearby. www. AE. DC. www. and 64 guest rooms nicely decorated in a Bavarianchalet style with big. stylish hotel is popular with gay travelers. Rates: 150€–200€ ($187–$250) double. Hotel Opera $$$$ Altstadt An early-20th-century Italianate building with a courtyard and garden houses this small. www. The 38 rooms. Rates: 90€–400€ ($112–$500) See map p. this hotel has a high-ceilinged lobby and a large wood-paneled breakfast room that retain much of their original late-19th-century superclassy Mandarin Oriental. then Tram 18 or 20 east to Hans Sachs Strasse. Ismaninger Strasse 42–44. 254. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor. V. MC. The bathrooms have a tub and shower. modern look. MC. 80538 München. Rooms in the rear on the third and fourth floors are quieter but also smaller than those facing the street. 80469 München. some face a garden. Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel $ –$$$$ Bogenhausen This quietly charming boutique hotel on the east bank of the Isar has a lobby. located in the historic heart of Munich. The hotel is a ten-minute walk from Maximilianstrasse and the center of the city. The small. Fax: 089/ 4160-5466. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 5-minute walk north on St. Fax: 089/ 2318-9199. Hans Sachs Strasse 4. however.prinzregent. St.-Anna-Strasse). Some of the rooms have small balconies. Mandarin Oriental $$$$ Altstadt The sophisticated. boutique hotel. Rates include breakfast. The rooms are fairly large and have good bathrooms. comfy beds and lots of wood. 254. Rates: 185€–265€ ($231–$331) double.hotel-opera. % 089/225-533.-Anna-Strasse 10. See map p. and modern. Rates include breakfast. The 25 distinctively decorated rooms have country antiques or a cool. % 089/231-890. occupies an ornate 19th-century building that was turned . MC. % 089/416-050. Fax: 089/21040977. AE.hotel-olympic. V. AE. breakfast room. are white. 81675 Munich.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Hotel Olympic $$ Altstadt 257 Built as a private villa around 1900. Most of the midsize bathrooms come with shower only. The level of service is exceptional. minimalist. U-Bahn: Prinzregenten-Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Prinz Regenten Strasse and south on Ismaninger Strasse). The hotel is a short walk from chic Maximilianstrasse and several major attractions. Rates include buffet breakfast. See map p. elegant.

AE. DC. Rates include buffet breakfast. neat rooms.Thierschstrasse 49. The staff at this full-service hotel will arrange baby-sitting. most with a tub-and-shower combination. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). the Splendid-Dollman is in the same league as Hotel Opera down the street. Platzl Hotel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Owned by the Ayinger brewery. The 167 rooms tend to be small. this reconstructed “medieval” hotel is located across from the Hofbräuhaus. for an additional 11€ ($13). The hotel has a heated rooftop swimming pool. this is one of the best choices in Munich. See map p. The rooftop terrace provides a view of Munich’s steeples and spires.mandarinoriental. % 089/225-014. V. Rates: 150€–190€ ($167–$237) double. www. MC. % 089/23-80-80. DC. You can enjoy breakfast. beautifully done boutique DISC. % 089/290-980. fine prints and engravings. but they’re paneled in chestnut and alderwood and furnished with 19th-century reproduction antiques.platzl. AE. Runner-up hotels Am Markt $ Altstadt This popular budget hotel centrally located in the Altstadt has small.splendid-dollmann. but not quite as chichi. Rates: 375€–490€ ($469–$612) double. 80331 München. 254.hotel inmunich. Fax: 089/222-539. Biedermeier-era (early-19th-century) furnishings. Heiliggeistrasse 6. MC. www. Rates: 161€–230€ ($201–$281) AE. and some are on the small side. Neuturmstrasse 1. Munich’s famous beer hall. 80331 München. 254. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. If you’re looking for a gulp of old-fashioned Bavarian ambience.258 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany into a hotel in 1990. outside on a patio. V. . Fax: 089/23808365. See map p. 80331 München. Sparkassenstrasse 10. No two rooms are the same. many of which share bathrooms. 80538 München. DC.-Anna-Platz to Thierschstrasse). 254. V. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 3-minute walk east from St. MC. No credit cards. www. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (then a 3-minute walk south on Neuturmstrasse). Fax: 089/ 2370-3800. % 089/237-030. The Splendid-Dollmann’s owners moved the hotel (formerly located about a block away) to this building in 2003 and completely redid the interior. www. Each comes with a compact tiled bathroom. and big marble-tiled bathrooms with tub-shower combinations outfit the 73 rooms and suites. See map p. but the overall ambience is hard to beat. Splendid-Dollmann $$ –$$$$ Altstadt A small. Most of the rooms have terraces with panoramic views of the city. See map p. Fax: 089/224-017.

Fax: 089/4804-4804. and snacks also are sold from outdoor stalls all around the Viktualienmarkt. Inexpensive sausages. 254. See map p. 254. S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz. Homemade dumplings are a specialty.S. the München City Hilton lies on the east bank of the river and features well-designed rooms with nice Rosenheimerstrasse 15. www. 80336 München. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Königswache $ $ Near Altstadt This 1960s-era hotel features modern. apple juice mixed with sparkling water. ask for Apfelsaftschorle (ap-fell-saft-shor-luh). See map p. % 800-223-6800 in the U. 80333 München.koenigswache. a braised loin of pork served with potato dumplings and rich brown gravy. and Canada or 089/48-040. heh. is Bavaria’s answer to the north’s sauerbraten (pot. See map p. Königshof $ $ $ $ Altstadt This famous hotel boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant and has lushly decorated rooms with marble bathrooms.S.hilton. München City Hilton $ $ $ Haidhausen An excellent choice for business travelers and families with children. 254. 81667 München. soups. Steinheilstrasse 7. or 089/21200. % 089/542-7570. % 800-455-8667 in the U. and beer halls that serve food. a large loaf of sausage eaten with freshly baked pretzels and mustard. Dining Out Munich is a city that loves to eat — and eat big. Schweinbraten. If you want a refreshing nonalcoholic drink. See map p. Filling the city are all kinds of fine restaurants. Fax: 089/212-0906. and so are all kinds of sausages and Leberkäse. small cafes and bistros. Senefelderstrasse 12. . Hotel Mark $ –$$ Near the Train Station Although not fancy. Fax: 089/5513-6113. % 089/559-820. The staff can arrange Fax: 089/5598-2333. 80335 Munich. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus. www. this 90-room hotel is convenient. 254. U-Bahn: Theresienstrasse. % 089/551-360. comfortable rooms with compact tiled bathrooms. served everywhere. Tram: 19. Karlsplatz 25. well maintained. 80333 Munich.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 259 $ $ $ $ Altstadt This full-service luxury hotel dates from 1841 and has individually decorated rooms with large bathrooms. Fax: 089/523-2114. and moderately priced. www. plus a health club with pool and sauna. See map p.or oven-roasted marinated beef). Promenadeplatz 2–6.

. Alois Dallmayr is the most famous delicatessen in Germany. AE.m. The house beer. in addition to timehonored favorites such as Lobster Thermidor and shrimp grilled in the shell. to midnight. MC. V. and soups.m. but the food is excellent. 254. sausages. 254.m. Specialties include dumpling soup and roast duck with red cabbage. Reservations required.m. DC. Augustiner Brau. Open: Daily 9 a. AE. A crowd always fills the restaurant at lunchtime. MC. % 089/298-787. V.–8 p. Dienerstrasse 14–15. and one of the most elegant.m. Main courses: 15€–38€ ($18–$46). upstairs in the dining room you can order a tempting array of dishes. Main courses: 20€–35€ ($25–$44). fixedprice menus 34€–48€ ($41–$58).m. U-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk north on Herrnstrasse and northeast on Stollbergstrasse. See map p. Downstairs you can buy fine food products. See map p. mussels. Augustiner Grossgaststätte $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/GERMAN Located on Munich’s main pedestrians-only shopping street. % 089/2318-3257. clams.” you find the largest selection of oysters in town. The top restaurants Alois Dallmayr $$ –$$$ Altstadt DELICATESSEN/CONTINENTAL In business for almost 300 years. as is the fish soup. comes from one of Munich’s oldest breweries. scampi. which owns the restaurant. Austernkeller $$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD At this “oyster cellar. V. . The restaurant is a bit pretentious. The shellfish platter with fresh oysters. % 089/213-5100. including herring. don’t leave the tip on the table. 254. Thurs–Fri 11:30 a. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2-minute walk north on Dienerstrasse).–4 p.–7 p. DC. smoked fish. which means that a service charge already has been added.. Neuhauser Strasse 27. Sat 9 a. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). MC. The server takes the tip when you pay the bill.m. round up the total to the nearest euro. Stollbergstrasse 11. Open: Daily 5–11:30 p. Open: Mon–Wed 11:30 a.260 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany If a restaurant bill says Bedienung. round up the total to the nearest euro and add another euro. this famous beer hall and restaurant has cavernous rooms and a genuinely gemütlich atmosphere. See map p. Menu offerings include fresh fish (salmon in champagne sauce is worth trying). U-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 5-minute walk east on Neuhauser Strasse). If service is not included.m. served raw or in dishes such as oysters Rockefeller. and sea snails is a delicious way to start your meal.

The atmosphere is light-hearted and fun. Main courses: 17€–42€ ($21–$52). Donisl $ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL Munich’s oldest beer hall dates from 1715 and provides diners and drinkers with a relaxed. MC. Reservations recommended. Pfisterstrasse 9.m. fixed-price lunch 8. The standard menu offers traditional Bavarian food and weekly specials. Hochbrückenstrasse 3. AE. have long been a specialty.–3 p. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. comfortable atmosphere.m. See map p. MC. and 6 p. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Tal and northeast on Hochbrückenstrasse). Open: Mon–Sat 11 a.m. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5minute walk north on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). Weinstrasse 1. pasta with truffles. fixed-price dinner 28€–38€ ($39–$47). Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). with a French influence. Weisswürste. The desserts are sumptuous. AE. See map p. DC. it brought its wood-paneled interior with it. The various risottos (rice dishes) are especially good.m. AE. V. V. ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and herbs. DC. See map p. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). 254. 254. 254. in a 16thcentury building in the heart of Munich. but at night the booking becomes more traditionally .m. spaghetti carbonara. The beers come from Munich’s HackerPschorr Brewery. beef filet. MC. In summer you can dine in the garden area out front. but several traditional Bavarian dishes also are on the menu. Open: Daily 9 a. DC. Try the tris di Pasta (three pastas with vegetables). to midnight. Reservations required.50€–28€ ($11–$39).–1 a. the little white sausages famous in Munich. Buon Gusto Talamonti $$ Altstadt TUSCAN/ITALIAN This highly regarded Italian restaurant has two dining areas — a simple bistro overlooking an open kitchen and a more formal dining room — with the same menu items and prices. Reservations recommended. % 089/29-62-64. the lunch menu leans toward Italian. The cooking is light and refined. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 1-minute walk north on Weinstrasse).Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Boettner $$$$ Altstadt INTERNATIONAL 261 When this century-old restaurant moved to its new location. or the roasted lamb with potatoes. Gandl $$ –$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN/FRENCH At this attractive and lively neighborhood bistro. to midnight. An accordion player provides music in the evening. lobster stew in a cream sauce. V.m. fixed-price menus 25€–36€ ($31–$45). Special offerings include herb-crusted lamb. % 089/221-210. and seasonal dishes with white truffles. % 089/296-383.

-Anna Platz 1.m. % 089/534-043. 254. See map p. U-Bahn: Lehel (the restaurant is less than a block from the St. and 7–10 p. 35€–70€ ($44–$87) dinner. Gasthaus Glockenbach $$$$ South of Train Station MODERN EUROPEAN This elegant but unpretentious restaurant serves imaginative. Main courses: 23€–30€ ($29–$37). Dinner offerings change often. Open: Daily 11 a. and Austria. The vegetables come from local farms. See map p. See map p. to midnight. and ravioli. 254. Main courses: 8€–18€ ($10–$22).262 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany French. Eat on the terrace if the weather’s nice. such as spaghetti carbonara. Hofbräuhaus am Platzl $$ Altstadt GERMAN A boisterous atmosphere prevails in Munich’s huge and world-famous beer hall. St. Bavarian game dishes include Rehpfeffer (venison) with egg Spätzle (German pasta) or tagliatelle with venison ragout. a big courtyard is on this level. % 089/2916-2525. too.m. U-Bahn: Goetheplatz (then a 10-minute walk south on Lindwurm and east on Kapuzinerstrasse to the corner of Maistrasse). Georgenhof $$ Schwabing GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This pleasant Schwabing eatery has a comfortably rustic interior with a wood-fired grill. Fixed-price menu: 31€ ($39). The food is . nouvelle French-German-Bavarian cuisine and has earned a Michelin star. which is served by the mass equal to about a quart. you sit on benches at bare wood tables as a brass band plays. V. The menu reflects seasonal specialty Spargel (asparagus) in May and June and regional favorites.m. sit outside under the chestnut trees. too. mostly organic. AE. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. or lamb in red-wine sauce. % 089/39-31-01. MC. Grilled meats such as lamb and steak are popular. MC. U-Bahn: Universität (then a 10minute walk west on Schelling Strasse and north on Turkenstrasse to the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Georgenstrasse). V.m.-Anna Platz exit). gnocchi. In the Schwemme (tap room) on the ground floor. MC. The Italian dishes include homemade pastas. Upstairs are a number of smaller. Fixedprice menus: 20€–45€ ($25–$56) lunch. Wines are mostly from Italy. For dessert. The beer is Hofbrau.–1 a. Reservations recommended. but if the weather is nice. The big gourmet salad with various meats and pâtés is delicious. The menu offerings change with the seasons and typically include venison and pheasant in autumn and lamb and veal dishes in spring. grilled filet of salmon in saffron sauce. Closed 1 week at Christmas. V. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). France.m. AE. Kapuzinerstrasse 29. but you’ll typically find fare such as entrecote with arugula salad. Fredrichstrasse 1. 254. try the simple but delicious Bavarian cream with strawberries. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 2 p. quieter dining rooms.

U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Bräuhausstrasse).m. Thailand (lemon grass). Main courses: 21€–24€ ($26–$30). % 089/5502-9741. Open: Daily 10 a. Maximiliansplatz 5. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. Main courses: 110€–40€ ($25–$50). V. or braised crab with polenta. Fixed-price dinner: 48€–54€ ($60–$67). veal with arugula. Japan (wasabi). but you may find main courses such as mushroom tartar. Hunsinger’s Pacific $$ –$$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL/ASIAN This restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices. Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom $ Altstadt BAVARIAN A short walk from Marienplatz. 254. and India (curry). fried monkfish. homemade gnocchi with duck and figs. Schweinbraten (roasted pork). DC. Am Platzl 9. and stuffed cabbage rolls. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to Frauenplatz beside the Frauenkirche). The menu emphasizes fresh fish prepared according to classic French cooking techniques but using spices from Malaysia (coconut milk). Everything on the menu is translated into English. No credit cards. Open: Daily 9 a. Nürnberger Schweinwurstl mit Kraut (pork sausages with cabbage. 254. 254.m. this is the coziest and friendliest of Munich’s local restaurants. See map p.m. and 6–10:30 p. 254. The tuna carpaccio with sliced plum. to midnight. Frauenplatz 9. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 3-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). Spanferkel (roast suckling pig).m. a specialty from Nuremberg) is the dish to try.–1 a. and 5 p. See map p. AE.m. You sit in carved wooden chairs at shared tables. See map p. across from the cathedral (Dom). Sparkassenstrasse 11. AE. fresh ginger. See map p. . % 089/295-264. and turbot in chili and ginger sauce. MC. No credit cards. Closed Aug.m. % 089/297-995.–2:30 p.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 263 heavy and hearty with a menu that includes Weisswürste and several other sausages.m. to midnight. Main courses include bouillabaisse with aioli (a fish soup with a spicy mayonnaise). MC. cold melon soup. Closed Aug 10–30. V. % 089/290-1360. La Galleria $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN The roster of dishes at this appealing Italian restaurant changes seasonally.m. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 10-minute walk northeast on Oskar-von-Miller Strasse to the entrance on Max-Joseph-Strasse). Hot dogs will never taste the same again after your kid has tried one of these delectable little sausages. and lime is a delicious starter. Reservations recommended. roast duck with lentils. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20).

Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight. See map p. See map p. Come for roast meats served with fresh vegetables. The menu includes freshly made salads. Toast the end of your Bavarian meal with a glass of wild-cherry schnapps.m. Asian-inspired vegetarian entrees. veal piccata with lemon sauce. Open: Daily 10 a. AE. Rossi $$ Altstadt ITALIAN With its columns. MC. macrobiotic dishes. V. . % 089/219-9890.m. or the fish platter served with ragout and noodles. The daily special pasta may be something more exotic. % 089/2370-3800. Marienplatz 8.m.–11:30 p. in the Rathaus. See map p. Reservations recommended. and pizzas generally are excellent. and white walls with wood-paneled ceiling. Main courses: 8€–22€ ($10–$27). V. and vegetarian Involtini (stuffed rollups). 254.m. V. % 089/265-596. red-tiled floor.–1 a. like fettucine with tartufo (truffles). For dessert try vanilla custard with fresh berry sauce. Try spaghetti alle pomodoro (with tomatoes) or penne ai formaggi (with cheese). Reservations recommended. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk southwest on Rindermarkt and Oberanger and north on Sack Strasse to Hackenstrasse). Open: Daily 11 a. AE. Main courses: 16€–24€ ($20–$30). fresh trout accompanied by chive-flecked sour cream and a potato pancake. The casseroles. DC. The menu showcases regional dishes but also includes some vegetarian choices. inexpensive food and wine. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (the Rathaus is on the square). AE. this well-liked Italian restaurant across from the famous Hofbräuhaus is an inviting place to dine. 254. woody interior with carved wooden chairs and tables and painted ceilings. Hackenstrasse 2.264 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pfistermühle $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN This old-fashioned. The simply prepared pastas (Teigwaren in German) are always good. Prinz Myshkin $ Altstadt VEGETARIAN If sausages and meat dishes are getting to you. You can also get a good pizza. Pfistermühle 4. In the Platzl Hotel. where you find good. MC. 254. you may want to try this popular vegetarian restaurant near Marienplatz. soups. or grilled steak (Rindfilet). U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). MC. vine-covered restaurant housed in a converted mill serves hearty portions of traditional Bavarian food in a series of charmingly decorated dining rooms or at outdoor tables. Ratskeller München $ –$$ Altstadt BAVARIAN A Ratskeller is a cellar restaurant in a Rathaus (town hall). Ratskeller München has a dark.

m. The choice of dishes is limited and changes often. technobistro in the main train station. in the main train station. including pork and sausages. Main courses: 7€–14€ ($9–$17).m.10) per quarter-hour. AE. The bistro also has a section for noncomputerized dining. red cabbage and cheese Spätzle.m. this sophisticated Michelin-starred restaurant has a modernist interior that reminds some of an airport lounge. high-ceilinged. Fixedprice lunch: 62€–92€ ($77–$115).–1 a. Main courses: 7€–18€ ($9–$22). sautéed foie gras with plums. Bayerstrasse 10 A. AE. Breakfast: 4€–10€ ($5–$13). . U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.m. % 089/290-7060.50€ ($ 3. See map p. Wash down your meal with the restaurant’s own beer. % 089/550-8800. 254. The Bayerische Teller (Bavarian plate) comes loaded with various meats. Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. Reservations required. % 089/227-735. and east on Johan-Fichte-Strasse). U-/S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk west on Tal and northeast on Hochbrücken to Bräuhausstrasse). AE. U-Bahn: Dietlindenstrasse (then a 10-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse. 254. Open: Daily 7:30 a. MC. Bräuhausstrasse 6. tagliatelle. to midnight.m. Main courses: 14€–26€ ($17–$32). Open: Tues–Sat noon to 3 p. MC.m. V. and finish with a hazelnut soufflé with marinated figs. Open: Mon–Fri 11:30 a. Open: Daily 9:30 a. takes up one side of this bright. 254. Spatenhaus $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This well-known beer restaurant with big windows overlooking the opera house serves hearty portions of typical Bavarian food at reasonable prices. DC.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 265 See map p. north on Leopold Strasse. Tantris $$$$ Schwabing FRENCH/GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A famed culinary mecca since 1972. V. Reservations recommended.m.m. Spaten-Franziskaner-Bier.m. and spinach strudel. Closed public holidays and annual holidays in Jan and May.–3 p. DC. The quality varies here. Times Square Online Bistro $ Train Station CONTINENTAL/SNACKS A bank of online computers. Sat 6 p. where you can order simple dishes such as pork cutlets. baked Camembert. AE. Schwabing. to midnight. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk north on Diener Strasse and Residenzstrasse). and 6 p. V. % 089/361-9590. Residenzstrasse 12. With one of the fixed-price multi-course menus you may begin with a yellowfin tuna followed by monkfish with lobster raviolis.m.–1 a.– 12:30 a. which you can rent for 2. V. and 6:30 p. Fixed-price dinner: 120€–140€ ($150–$175). MC.m. See map p. MC. and I’d recommend it more for a snack between e-mails than a real meal. medallions of venison with mushrooms.

m. is located in the Englischer Garten at the foot of the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). but keep in mind that you’ll be charged up to 5€ ($6. The chef makes a great Tafelspitz (boiled beef). and Sunday from 10 a. and atmosphere are much the same in the two places that I recommend. Munich pretzels are delicious. to 9 p. Saturday. zither players. ߜ Biergarten Chinesischer Turm. where you can sit outdoors. near the zoo. has tables set in a tree-shaded garden overlooking the Isar River. Salty pretzels and large white radishes (Radl) are traditional accompaniments to the beer.m. to 1 a. .m. A simple meal generally costs around 10€ ($13). you’ll usually find pretzels on the table. The best beer gardens Munich is famed for its beer gardens (Biergartens). with a golden. or accordionists sometimes add to the jovial atmosphere.75–$8). November to April.m. a Brezel (bray-zuhl.266 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Brezeln und bier (pretzels and beer) In Munich. depending on its size. For a glass or mug of beer. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south to Dreifaltifkeitsplatz on the east side of the Viktualienmarkt). This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 10 a.25) for every Brezel you eat. drink. ߜ Gaststätte zum Flaucher. it’s open Friday. Zum Alten Markt $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This snug. pretzel) is the traditional accompaniment to ein Glas helles (ine glahss hel-les. Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 3.). one of Munich’s largest and most popular beer gardens. Main courses: 12€–20€ ($15–$25). % 089/299-995.m. Oom-pah-pah bands. In summer. Munich’s big outdoor produce market. Bus: 52). quaff Munich’s famous brews. an easy-to-find landmark.m. friendly eatery is located on a tiny square just off the Viktualienmarkt. You can also order classic dishes such as roast duck with applesauce or roast suckling pig.50€ ($3. to midnight. a glass of light wheat beer). No credit cards. Englischer Garten 3 (% 089/3838720. The food. tables are set up outside. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight (food served until 10 p. In the beer halls. and order hearty Bavarian food at reasonable prices. expect to pay 3€ to 6. not-too-salty crust and a soft thick interior. You may begin with homemade cream of carrot soup or black-truffle tortellini in cream sauce. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 11 a. chewy. U-Bahn: Giselastrasse). Isarauen 8 (% 089/723-2677.

and textiles. Tyrol. pick up a museum guide at the information desk.m. folk art. free for children 14 and younger Sun 1€ ($1. Closed major holidays. which contains works in wood by the great sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). The museum also contains a famous collection of Christmas Nativity cribs from Bavaria. The objects on view are among Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. Sightseeing in Munich Munich is one of the great sightseeing cities in Germany. you’ll have to make some difficult decisions.m. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum) East of Altstadt This museum contains three vast floors of sculpture. A free audio tour in English is available in the lobby. many fine churches and historic buildings. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Munich is a city bursting with first-rate museums. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). see the listings under “The top restaurants. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. See map p. The museum is so immense that you can easily spend several days exploring the two floors of exhibits. Free tours highlighting various parts of the vast collection take place on Tuesday at 6:30 p. Give yourself at least an hour just to cover the highlights. ceramics.m. offering several world-class museums. but if your time is limited.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 267 For two of the best beer halls in Munich. in addition to clocks and scientific instruments. furniture. see the “Central Munich Attractions” map in this chapter. decide which paintings you particularly want to see. % 089/2380-5216. Barer Strasse 27.m.” and the nearly 800 paintings on display in this enormous building represent the greatest European artists of the 14th through 18th centuries. and southern Italy. fascinating architecture. (Tues until 10 p. punch the corresponding number into your audio guide to hear a full commentary.50€ ($7) adults.). A major highlight is the Riemenschneider Room. painting. For locations. for the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl and Augustiner Grossgastätte. and Friday at 3 p. and lovely parks and gardens.–5 p. To make the most of your time here. Enjoying Munich is easy. 268. Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) Museum Quarter Pinakothek means “painting gallery. and then spend at least two to three hours.m.25). 4€ ($5) students. Admission: Tues–Sat 5.” earlier in this chapter. When you see a painting you want to know more about. and beautiful places to stroll. .

Neuh -Wilhelm-Strasse zog Her auser 8 strass e Sonnenstr. Goethestrasse Schillerstrasse Landwehrstrasse Mathildenstra spitalstr . Pettenko fer- strasse Hamburg Berlin G E R MAN Y Frankfurt 0 strasse MatthäusBeethoven.Nussbaum kirche platz e s as str urm w d Lin tras 0.2 km Blu Tha lkirc h Jah U ST. STEFAN’S STEFAN CEMETERY ns tra Munich sse 0 ners se me nstrasse Mü llerstrasse Unte rer A U nger Sendlingertorplatz Bare rstra sse h-S tras se sse Luis 3 4 Dachauers trasse Ma x-Jo sep sse . 1 Zieb Sch Hes tras se Aug u i S U sten land str.2 mi 0. Karlsplatz Adolf-Kolping-Str. Ho t Joseph 9 Se li nd ng ers tr.268 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Central Munich Attractions Alte Pinakothek 5 Altes Rathaus 16 Antikensammlungen 7 Asamkirche 9 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 20 Deutsches Museum 10 Englischer Garten 21 Frauenkirche 17 Glockenspiel 14 Glyptothek 6 Marienplatz 14 Michaelskirche 8 Münchner Stadtmuseum 12 Neue Pinakothek 3 Neues Rathaus 15 Olympiapark 1 Olympiaturm 1 Peterskirche 13 Pinakothek der Moderne 4 Residenz 19 Schloss Nymphenburg 2 Spielzeugmuseum 15 Theatinerkirche 18 Viktualienmarkt 11 NYMPHENBURG Amalienburg 26 Badenburg Pavilion 22 Magdalenenklause 25 Marstallmuseum 27 Pagodenburg 24 Porzellan-ManufakturNymphenburg 30 Porzellansammlung 28 Schloss 29 Schlosspark 23 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn U-Bahn eimers trasse s tr. Sonnenstr. Schwanthalerstrasse Herzog spitals tr. asse ellin The resie gstr n- U s tra sse s-St rass e ens Gab e lsbe Schleis sh rass e rger stra Arc isst 2 5 asse Brie nne r Str 6 Königsplatz lstra uste Seid Aug Meis U erst rass e asse nstr sse Kar lstra sse se tras 7 Karolinenplatz sse Ma ens se rstra rsst ras Luis Ar nu lfstra sse S Hauptbahnhof U Elise GARTEN nstr asse Bahnhofplatz Prielm aye rstr asse i U Schütze nstr . ter str . ALTER BOTANISCHER e Sophienstr as s Bare Lenbachplatz U Maximiliansplatz Maxb S urgst rasse Senefelderstrasse Bayerstr.

fing i S U 13 12 al Isartorplatz 15 Th. ner Kau str. -W Marienplatz 14 Im T imm 16 Rum Is fo tr. ibr Co rn ück eli str us as se en se as str . str inge nne rstra s sse Prinz rege nten st nstra Galeri estra Theatermuseum nf e che Ler ld s sse tra ar ss e Wagmüller str. aul tiner ras s 18 Residenz 19 Liebigst Thea Kar rsta Reitm ay rasse d-F llst Wein str. Ba ad a Erh ers Is rdt tra str ass e Deutsches Museum 10 S ar e Bürkleinstr.. asse U Nymphenburger Kanal Schloss 29 28 26 27 ensch tr Hir rtens ga ellin 23 asse SCHLOSSPARK Am resie alie The nstr Grosser See stras nstr a sse se 22 Kaulbac hstrasse Zuccalistrasse Richildenstrasse Ludw ig t r a s se Kön igin s 21 tras se ens Schönfelds -vo n Türk le -Mil r.-An na-Pfa rrstr. rns Maxim ilians brück e stra sse r W Is en Wi er S tra sse sis Gärtnerplatz z Fra Klen un ho fe rst r tra es Mo ras M tr. Frauenplatz Die ing erstr . ns 11 ar do Frauenstrasse Ka e Zw nal t schs T h i er ass e rfs tra sse Viktualienmarkt Westenriederstrasse S er-R Jüdisches Museum München Maxim Knöbelstra sse ilians trasse Ste 17 Museum für Völkerkunde Thiersch Max Nationaltheater JosephPlatz Am Pfis Kosttorters Platz tras se Ma str.Vete rinär Huberplatz str. ers üll tra Inn sse ere Baaderplatz Ludwigsbrücke Ke Ro se ller str Reichenbachstrasse Ze a r pp lin str a Lille nstr sse asse Hochs trasse sse ass sse . ide nm tr.Ring trasse Strasse ENGLISCHER GARTEN Von-de r-Tann Osk Brie ing K. St. Scharnagl -R se Str ass Odeons. e rs U tr a ss e orstra Promenadeplatz Cuvilliés Theater stras hab Christophstr.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 269 Königinstr ass e stra ss e Blüte nstra sse Akad emies trasse Ada lber tstra sse NYMPHENBURG Schac strass ke 24 Kleiner See 25 30 gstr Tür Sch ken University Prof.HOFGARTEN platz Hofg U arten strass e se dst ras se e Oett Un söl rasse 20 er- Residenzstr. e sse nh eim er . rds Ste ins m Blu e tr.

the Englischer Garten also is the oldest public park in the world. free for children younger than 18.m. Tram: 18 to Deutsches Museum (the tram stops outside the museum). Open: Daily 9 a. You can pick up expensive picnic goodies at Alois Dallmayr (see “Dining Out. Prinzregentenstrasse 3. Established in 1789. papermaking. 3€ ($3. on the east by Lerchenfeldstrasse. or at Hertie. on the west by Königinstrasse.m. 1866). the first automobile (1886). See map p.m. this is the largest science and technology museum in the world and one of the most popular attractions in Germany. the department store across from the Hauptbahnhof. and the laboratory bench at which the atom first was split (1938). 268. This hands-on.–5 p. 268. Deutsches Museum (German Museum of Science and Technology) Museumsinsel Located on the Museumsinsel. Opel. The park is a lovely place to have a picnic. the first airliner (1919).75) students and children 6–16. The Automobile department in the basement is noteworthy. an island in the Isar River. you see a biplane flown by the Wright brothers in 1908. Bounded on the south by Von-der-Tann Strasse and Prinzregentenstrasse.” earlier in this chapter). (Wed until 8 p.–5 p. with a collection of luxury Daimler.270 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. the first diesel engine (1897). and Bugatti vehicles. Englischer Garten (English Garden) Northwest of Altstadt Munich’s famous city park is one of the largest (922 acres) and most beautiful city parks in Europe. You can wander for hours along the tree-shaded walks. are popular nude-sunbathing spots. hilltop temple called the Monopteros. See map p. 268. kid-friendly museum has interactive exhibits and an English-speaking staff to answer questions and demonstrate glass blowing. pumps. Museumsinsel 1. and lake.75) students and seniors. constructed in the 19th century.m. streams. . In the Aeronautics section.50€ ($11) adults. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 10minute walk north on Wagmüllerstrasse and east on Prinzregentenstrasse). and how steam engines. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 10-minute walk northeast through the Hofgarten to the park). or less-expensive fare from the Viktualienmarkt (the produce market described later in this section). Spending half a day here is easy. and admire the view of Munich’s Altstadt from the round. A giant beer garden occupies the plaza near the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower).m.m.). 3€ ($3.).25) adults. Admission: 8. Closed major holidays. Its huge collection of scientific and technological treasures includes the first electric locomotive (1879). Sun 1€ ($1. the stream that runs through the park. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. the first electric generator (called a dynamo. (Thurs until 8 p. Admission: Tues–Sat 5€ ($6. and historical musical instruments work. and an assortment of military aircraft. The banks of the Eisbach. % 089/211-2401. % 089/21791.25).

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 271 Deutsches Museum Ceramics Glass Technical Toys Paper Writing & Printing Second Floor Ground Floor Aeronautics Glassblowing Special Exhibition Textile PhotoTechnology graphy New Energy Techniques Fraunhofer Room Brander Room Hall of Fame History of Museum Industrial Chemistry Physics Optics First Floor AeroSailing Wherry nautics Atomic & Nuclear Physics Telecommunications Musical Instruments Chemistry Oil & Natural Surface Gas Mining Turbines Metallurgy Machine Tools Welding & Soldering Ground Floor Mineral Power Machinery Resources Entrance Hall Marine Navigation Electrical Power Hydraulic Engineering Rescue Cruiser Wind Mill Vehicle Engineering Courtyard Museum Shop Roads & Bridges Tunneling Tower Railways Model Mountain Railways Railways Oil & Gas Mining Ore Dressing Power Machinery Basement Modern Mining Motor Vehicles Marine Navigation Hydraulic Engineering Motor Vehicles .

On the north side of Marienplatz is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall). 268..m. because many of the city’s attractions are clustered in the vicinity. See map p. Fri 7 a. first performed in 1683 to express gratitude for the end of the plague. open daily from 10 a. 268.75) adults.50€ ($2) students. Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady) Altstadt Munich’s largest church.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. with its plain. was a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of World War II (WWII).m.m. Admission is 2.m. In the center of the Altstadt. one level below. Open: Church Sat–Thurs 7 a. and 9 p. The rebuilt church is strikingly simple and dignified.90) for adults.m.50 (65¢) for children. to 7 p. The tower is open Monday to Friday from 9 a. 0.10) for adults.m. to 5:30 p.m. 0. and 5€ ($ 6. to 7 p. You can take an elevator to the top of the Rathaus’s tower for a good view of the city center.–7 p. completed in the late 15th century. Frauenplatz 12. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. and.. 15th-century Gothic tower. Admission: Church free. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to the church). tower Apr–Oct daily 10 a.–6 p. To the right of the Neues Rathaus stands the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall).m.272 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Watching the Glockenspiel The best show on Marienplatz takes place at 11 a. Brightly painted mechanical figures reenact two famous events from Munich’s history: the knights’ tournament during the 1586 wedding feast of Wilhelm V and Renate of Lorraine.m. a historical toy collection. the Schäfflertanz (Coopers’ Dance). built in 19thcentury Gothic style and famous for its Glockenspiel (see the sidebar “Watching the Glockenspiel” in this chapter).m. tower 3€ ($3.m.50€ ($ 1. . See map p.m. Admission is 1. Inside is the Spielzeugmuseum (% 089/294-001).m.75 (95¢) for children 6 to 18.25) for a family. Only its landmark twin onion-domed towers from 1525 remained standing. during the holiday seasons) when the 43-bell Glockenspiel (carillon) on the 280foot central spire of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) goes through its paces..–5 p. % 089/290-0820. 1. Marienplatz Altstadt This large pedestrian-only square in the heart of the Altstadt also is the old heart of Munich.50€ ($ 3. daily (also at noon and 5 p. Chances are you’ll return here again and again. and the view from the tower is spectacular.m.

–7 p. 4€ ($5) students and seniors.m.m. free on Sun. Barer Strasse 27 (across Theresienstrasse from the Alte Pinakothek). Francesco Goya.). The second-floor photo museum traces the early history of the camera back to 1839. tower 1.25). Sun 10 a. 0.m. 268. Admission: Tues–Sat 5. Joshua Reynolds. Mundita. Not quite as daunting as the nearby Alte Pinakothek. 268.–6 p. Children love the third-floor collection of marionettes and hand puppets from around the world and the gallery of fairground art.50€ ($2) adults.m.m.m. Admission: Church free. % 089/2380-5195.). (Nov–Mar until 6 p.).Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Münchner Stadtmuseum (Munich City Museum) Altstadt 273 This museum chronicles Munich’s history and the everyday lives of its residents. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. is known locally as Old Pete. See map p. You find a cafeteria in the museum’s main courtyard. % 089/260-4828.-Jakobs-Platz 1. but you have to climb (and climb and climb) 306 steps to see it.m. Rindermarkt 1. 2€ ($2. St.m. A tour of the highlights takes a couple of hours. this museum is a showcase for 19th-century German and European art.m. You get a splendid view from the top. Closed major holidays. See map p. See map p. Sun 1€ ($1. Peter’s Church) Altstadt The bell tower of this 13th-century Gothic church.75 (95¢) students.m. . Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). (Nov–Mar until 7 p. dating from 1820. The museum’s one must-see exhibit is the Moriskentanzer (Moorish dancers). an audio tour in English is free with your admission. featuring ten carved and brightly painted 15th-century wooden figures. which includes the oldest-known carousel horses. this museum still contains plenty to see.–6 p. Vincent van Gogh.m. 268. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2minute walk south on Rindermarkt).–5 p. and a bizarre relic in the second chapel (on the left): the gem-studded skeleton of St. frescoes. Open: Wed–Mon 10 a.50€ ($7) adults. Artists whose works are on view include Thomas Gainsborough. Peterskirche (St.50) students and children 6–15. starting right around 1800. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Rindermarkt and Oberanger). The interior of the church contains baroque-era sculptures. Neue Pinakothek Museum Quarter Housed in a postmodern building from 1981. Caspar David Friedrich. William Turner. (Wed until 10 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. % 089/2332-2370. remodeled during the baroque era. who stares at you with two false eyes in her skull. among many others. and Paul Gauguin.

including German and Florentine Renaissance. (Thurs–Fri until 8 p. 268. Closed major holidays. Artisans painstakingly restored the Residenz.m.m. You enter both the Residenz Museum and the Schatzkammer from Max-Joseph-Platz on the south side of the palace. 8€ ($10) students and children.25) for students 10–18. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. the rulers of Bavaria. See map p. a stunning rococo theater.m. Residenztheater 3€ ($3.–4 p. You find four collections housed inside. Architecture.274 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of Modern Art. Ernst. Guided tours (in German): Daily 10 a. In 1702.). Admission: 9€ ($11) adults. the Pinakothek der Moderne. The most important is the Staatsgalerie moderner Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art).– 6 p. 268.–5 p.m.50) students and children. Kirchner. 2€ ($2. Design) Museum Quarter Munich’s newest museum. you . The must-sees are the Residenz Museum. free for children younger than 10. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (the palace is on the same square as the theater). 5€ ($6.m. Giacometti. Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) Nymphenburg Schloss Nymphenburg. opened in September 2002. with three centuries’ worth of accumulated treasures. free admission on Sun. with arts and furnishings displayed in some 130 rooms. and 12:30 p. On the north side of the palace is the Italianate Hofgarten (Court Garden). Max-Joseph-Platz 3. displaying major 20th-century classics by internationally known artists including Matisse. The palace was begun in 1664 and took more than 150 years to complete.m. the Schatzkammer (Treasury). Picasso.m. laid out between 1613 and 1617.75) adults. and the Altes Residenztheater. From central Munich. Gris. Residenz (Royal Palace) Altstadt This magnificent building was the official residence of the Wittelsbach family. the Wittelsbachs’ summer residence. and the Graphische Sammlung (Graphics Collection). The other collections include the Neue Sammlung (Craft and Design Collection). Barer Strasse 40.. the palace is a compendium of various architectural styles. which was almost totally destroyed in WWII. See map p. the Museum of Architecture. Kandinsky. from 1385 to 1918. Open: Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museums are across the street). % 089/290-671.m. and others.m. Added to and rebuilt through the centuries. is one of the most sophisticated and beautiful palaces in Europe. % 089/2380-5360. Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. and Palladian. Elector Max Emanuel decided to enlarge the original Italianate villa by adding four large pavilions connected by arcaded passageways. Admission: Combined ticket for Residenz Museum and Schatzkammer 9€ ($11) adults. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (the palace is southeast across the square).

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 275 The Residenz Hofgartenstrasse State Collection of Egyptian Art Fourshaft Room Court Garden Wing Stone Room Wing Trier Wing Festival Hall Building Entrance Hall Bavarian Academy of Science Battle Room Wing To w Chapel Courtyard er B ui ld in g Hercules Chest Ladies’ Floor Coin Collection Imperial Courtyard Apothecaries’ Courtyard Ground Floor Nibelungen Rooms 1 Theater Floor Imperial Hall or r Corrid Theatine Stone Room Trier Corridor Trier Room Papal Rooms Rooms Upper Floor 1 Entrance to Residenz Museum denz Old Resi ße Antler Corridor Grotto Courtyard Ancestoral Gallery Royal Building Courtyard Old Foyer Residenz Foyer Theater Fountain Courtyard Apothecaries’ Wing Wittelsbach Cabinet Garden Fountain Ruins of All Saints Courtyard Church Kitchen Courtyard m riu ua iq nt A Re si de nz Marstallplatz st ra t Vestmen Rooms Treasury Royal Building Max-Joseph-Platz New Residenz Theater New Hercules Room Charlotte Corridor tt lo ar Ch en t ak tr ’s st ür rf Ku g in sW om Ro Rich Ludwig I’s Rooms Porcelain Gallery Battle Rooms .

Nördliches Schlossrondell 8 (% 089/179-1970). The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection. with an 18th-century swimming pool. French-style gardens.. Open: Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. to 5 p. entrance across from the Marstallmuseum) contains superb pieces of 18th-century porcelain. gilded coaches and sleighs. Admission: Palace grounds free. Tram: 12. a group of Roman Catholic clergy.276 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany can easily reach the palace by tram in about 20 minutes. stretching all the way to the so-called grand cascade at the far end of the formal. See map p. you come first to the Great Hall. including those used by Ludwig II.–4 p. Inside.m. decorated in a vibrant splash of rococo colors and stuccowork. the raven-haired dancer whose affair with Ludwig caused a scandal. full of quiet meadows and forested paths. Theatinerkirche (Church of the Theatines) Altstadt Named for the Theatines. Dark wooden pews and a canopied pulpit provide the only color in the all-white interior. To the south of the palace buildings. and wall paintings. where you find a dazzling collection of ornate.m. you find the Badenburg Pavilion. or 17 to Romanplatz (then a 10-minute walk west to the palace entrance). 8€ ($10) seniors. the interior salons are a riot of flamboyant colors. You need at least half a day to explore the buildings and grounds. A canal runs through 500-acre Schlosspark. this church is Munich’s finest example of Italian baroque architecture. in the rectangular block of low structures that once housed the court stables. A factory on the grounds of Schloss Nymphenburg still produces the famous Nymphenburg porcelain.m. In the south pavilion. Prettiest of all the buildings in the park is Amalienburg.–6 p. 8km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. 16. has a sales room and exhibition center open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a. The beauties include Schöne Münchnerin (Lovely Munich Girl) and a portrait of Lola Montez. Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a.m.m. Fluted columns lining the center aisle support the arched ceiling of the nave. Schloss Nymphenburg 1. Badenburg and Magdalenenklause closed Oct 16–Mar 30. built in 1734 as a hunting lodge for Electress Amalia. swirling stuccowork. Every surface appears to be loaded with dollops of fanciful white stuccowork. is the Marstallmuseum. The church was begun by Italian architects in 1663 and was completed by German court architects about a century later. admission to all attractions 10€ ($13) adults. the Pagodenburg. decorated in the Chinese style that was all the rage in the 18th century. % 089/179-080. meant to be a retreat for prayer and solitude.m. The dome above the transept is decorated with an ornate gallery of large statues. 268. including miniature porcelain copies of masterpieces in the Alte Pinakothek. Porzellan-Manufaktur-Nymphenburg. . Stieler (1827–1850). In the English-style park. you find Ludwig I’s famous Gallery of Beauties with paintings by J. and the Magdalenenklause (Hermitage). free for children younger than 7.

weekdays or until 1 p.m.50€ ($4.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. the Viktualienmarkt has been serving Munich residents for nearly 200 years and is a wonderful place to stroll and sniff and take in the scene. and dozens of produce stalls. (until 8 p. At the Viktualienmarkt. on Sunday. . Viktualienmarkt (Produce Market) Altstadt Located on the square of the same name.m. remember two points: Do not touch the merchandise (doing so is against German food laws) and don’t try to bargain for lower prices (prices are not negotiable).m. www.50).de. water. Saturdays.m. to 5 p. You can buy food at the market stalls and eat it in the beer garden if you buy a beer. and stay open until 6 p. and Tal on the north.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 277 See map p. Sat 10 a. from a mussel shell to large Greek and Etruscan vases. Bounded by Prälat-Zistl-Strasse on the west.m. Here are some additional places to visit as you explore the city. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk southeast through the square). it’s 1€ ($1. Finding more cool things to see and do Munich has many important churches and museums in addition to those described in the preceding sections.mwn.m. Wed). and 1:30–4:30 p. 268. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. See map p. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3. Admission: Free. U-/S-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor). Heiliggeiststrasse on the east. fish sellers. from a pre-Mycenaean version carved in 3000 B. Frauen Strasse to the south.–3 p. Open: Mon–Fri 10 a. a soda. a whole section of bakeries stocked with dozens of different kinds of Bavarian breads and rolls. Multicolored marbles. In an area the size of a city block.m. Most of the permanent stands open at 6 a. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 2-minute walk south on Theatinerstrasse). ߜ The Asamkirche. is an essential stop for anyone interested in ancient art. % 089/210-6960. The Viktualienmarkt has a large beer garden. A joint ticket to the Museum of Antiquities and the neighboring Glyptothek (included later in this list) is 6€ ($7. Königsplatz 1 (% 089/599-888-30. is a remarkable rococo church built by the Asam brothers between 1733 and 1746. close to Marienplatz. and in other outdoor food markets throughout Germany.– 1 p.m.50) for adults. you find two dozen butcher shops.m. ߜ The Antikensammlungen (Museum of Antiquities).C. The museum’s five main-floor halls house more than 650 Greek vases. 2.. 268.m. Theatinerstrasse 22. wine merchants.25) for everyone. on Sendlinger Strasse (% 089/260-9357. or other beverage at the beer-garden drink stand.m.antike-am-koenigsplatz. five cheese sellers.

). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz).de/panorama) is a straightforward affair — just hop on in front of the Hauptbahnhof and buy your 11€ ($13) ticket onboard. to 10 p. on Sunday.m. and 5 p. Königsplatz 3 (% 089/286-100. 19€ ($23) city tours that. 2. They also run guided tours to the castle of Neuschwanstein. ߜ Located across from the Antikensammlungen (see the first entry in this list).. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3.m.).m. a single-nave church with a barrel-vaulted ceiling completed in 1597.m. Olympiaturm (% 089/3067-2750).278 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany gold leaf.25). sits at the northwestern edge of Munich and is a small city unto itself.m. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 a. Tours depart at 10 and 11 a.) television tower in the center of the park. Panorama also offers 21⁄2-hour. ߜ Olympiapark (% 089/3067-2414.m. to 7 p.50) for adults. exhibits Germany’s largest collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. and 1. take place at the colossal 69. a colossal Sleeping Satyr from the Hellenistic period.m. kouroi (statues of youths). including concerts. site of the 1972 Olympic games. and 4 p. The one-hour Stadtrundfahrt (city sightseeing tour) by Panorama Tours (% 089-54907560. the 293m-high (960-ft. another goes to the Olympic Area where you can climb its 960-foot Olympic Tower (daily at 2:30 p. Sunday from 6:45 a. noon. Apr–Oct). (until 8 p. 3. Here you find sixth-century-B.m. A ticket for a ride to the top costs 4€ ($5) for adults and 2.m. daily (Apr–Oct also at 11:30 a. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps.m.m.m. ߜ The Michaelskirche (St.m. 2. U-Bahn: Olympiazentrum). the Glyptothek.autobusoberbayern. and silver cover every square inch of this small rectangular church with rounded ends. to 5 p.C. Michael’s Church). plus another at 10 a. . in addition to the city orientation tour. to midnight.m. spend some time exploring a single site with a guide. and a haunting collection of Roman portraits.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.000-seat stadium.10) for children younger than 16.m. Various events. Seeing Munich by Guided Tour You have two choices for orientation bus tours. One visits Schloss Nymphenburg (daily at 2:30 p. to 5:30 p.m. Thurs)...50€ ($3) for students and seniors. a third spends time in the Alte Pinakothek (Tues–Sun at 10 a.50€ ($3. is open daily from 9 a. Neuhauserstrasse 52 (% 089/231-7060. The church is open daily from 8 a.m.50€ ($4. www. The extraordinary view reaches all the way to the Alps. everyone gets in for 1€ ($1. 2:30.).

and then transfer to bus 724 or 726 to the camp. the meeting point for all walks is the New Rathaus directly under the Glockenspiel on Marienplatz. February through November. The first to arrive were political prisoners (Communists and Social Democrats). Hitler’s Munich. under the tower of the Altes Rathaus on Marienplatz. Jehovah’s Witnesses. For a more active experience. Visitors now follow the route of the prisoners. more than 206. to 5 p.mikesbiketours. All tours meet 15 minutes before setting off. Mike’s offers four-hour. and.000 prisoners arrived (the exact number is unknown). followed soon after by “beggars. Alte-Roemar-Strasse 75 (% 08131/1741). Himmler ordered the first German concentration camp to be set up in Dachau. Munich Walk Tours (% 0171/274-0204. In 2002.” homosexuals. To get to the camp. but displays showing prisoners’ faces and videos of survivor interviews put a very human face on the horrific pain and suffering endured by these ordinary citizens.m. and 4 p. 19km (12 miles) northwest of Munich. Between 1933 and 1945. take S-Bahn train S2 from the Hauptbahnhof to Dachau (direction: Petershausen). Inscribed boards show the rooms’ original conditions and The camp is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a. and more than 32. you can tour Munich by bicycle with the English-speaking ex-pats at Mike’s Bike Tours (% 089/2554-3988 or 0172/852-0660. growing numbers of Jews.m. tour. www. September to November 10 and March to April 15.m.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 279 Dachau: Germany’s first concentration camp In 1933. The daily tours leave at 2:30 p.munich walktours. The names of many of the dead are not known. hunger.m. disease. there’s also a 5:15 In June and July.m. April 16 through August. www. were redesigned to focus on the fate of the prisoners and to integrate the still-existing historic buildings into the reworked permanent exhibition. 24€ ($29) spins around the sights of central Munich (including 45 minutes in a beer garden). conducted in English. The company offers several options. are a great way to find out about Munich’s history and architecture. and where.000 died. and mass executions by shooting.” “antisocial elements. Dachau did not have gas chambers.m. No need to reserve. The 21⁄4-hour City Walk Tour starts daily at 10:45 a.. shortly after Hitler became German chancellor. they were given a striped prison uniform. parts of the KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau (Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial). lasting about . admission is free.. after 1938. you pay the guide (identifiable by a yellow sign). after disinfecting. at 11:30 a. enter rooms in which citizens were stripped of all their belongings and rights. Captions are in German and English. Prisoners died through work.

Dirndls (traditional German dresses). and a mouthwatering array of traditional snacks and sweets. Munich ranks right up there with Paris and London. handicrafts. such as coats. Marienplatz at Christmas Marienplatz. Joop. On these streets. you find branches of all the top European couturiers and Germany’s and Munich’s own designers: Jil Sander. folk art. The biggest concentration of shops selling secondhand goods is on Westenriederstrasse. however. Bogner. jackets. and Theatinestrasse. free for children younger than 14. and handicrafts. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). and hats. the plaza overflows with stalls selling toys. Am Platzl 1/Sparkassenstrasse 10 (% 089/220-163. Bahnhofplatz 7 (% 089/55120. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). Loden-Frey. Maffeistrasse. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). Sometimes called “the Bloomingdale’s of Germany.280 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 21⁄2 hours. Dirndl-Ecke. including gingerbread. is a good. is Munich’s best department store and a good place to shop for handmade crafts from all across Germany. Shopping for Local Treasures Munich is the fashion capital of Germany. Marienplatz 11 (% 089/236-910. Antiques devotees with deep pockets find what they want on Ottostrasse. Maximilianstrasse (which also has the leading art galleries). tree ornaments. Hertie’s. The best streets for elegant boutiques and specialty shops are Briennerstrasse. smoked meats. . has a large selection of high-quality Bavarian costumes. fruitcakes. General shopping is less pricey on and around Marienplatz and along the main pedestrian streets Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauser Strasse. and when the topic is shopping. is the scene of a famous Christkindl Markt. sugarcoated almonds. across from the main train station. covers all the important facts and sites that played a role in Munich’s Nazi era. From late November through December. This city is not one in which you’re likely to find many bargains. or Christmas Market. is the place for all kinds of high-quality loden (a waterproof wool) wear. Maffeistrasse 7–9 (% 089/210-390. and piping hot Glühwein. Max Dietl. founded in 1842. a spiced red wine. The cost for each tour is 10€ ($13 for adults). the main square of the inner city. and Rudolph Moshammer. allpurpose department store. 9€ ($11) for those younger than 26.” Ludwig Beck am Rathauseck. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz).

m. But you can sit back in a leafy beer garden or in a beer hall. The best way to purchase tickets is to go directly to the venue’s box office. the jewel-box rococo theater in the Residenz (see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z.staatsoper. Tram: 19).) You also find plenty of bars and dance clubs for late-night partying. Nightclubs in Munich. to midnight. Munich is renowned for its opera and symphony concerts and theater. (See “The best beer gardens” earlier in this chapter. have a beer. Rosenheimerstrasse 5 (% 089/5481-8181. Residenzstrasse 1 (% 089/ 2185-1940. The club hours are . pick up a copy of Monatsprogramm (1. Leopoldstrasse 7 (% 089/333-333. and the occasional celeb. Friday and Saturday from 9 a. Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (Tram 19). Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera. tend to get going around 11 p. to midnight. Checking out bars and clubs Cafes are quiet in the afternoon but pick up noise and steam as the evening wears on.bayerische. Havana Club. is a lively singles bar fueled by rum-based cocktails. Performances of both opera and ballet take place in the National Theater. To find out what’s playing.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 281 Discovering Nightlife in Munich Something always is going on in Munich. and enjoy the local performs from midSeptember to July in the Philharmonic Hall in the Gasteig Kulturzentrum (Cultural Center). smoke-filled hangout for writers.50€/$2) from one of the tourist offices..m. In a cafe. to 1 a. as in the rest of the world. and Sunday from 9 a. % 089/2185-1920. Altes Residenztheater (Cuvilliés Theater. you can sit with a coffee or a drink and order light meals or pastries. or is one of the world’s great opera companies. is a sprawling. www. The cafe is open Monday through Thursday from 8 a.m.m. Bars and cafes Café Extrablatt. The famous Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra. www. artists. which generally is open during the day and an hour before the performance.” earlier in this chapter) also is an important performance venue for plays and operas. S-Bahn: Isartor).muenchnerphilharmoniker. U-Bahn: Universität). called a Kasse. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Few cities in Europe can rival Munich for the sheer number of musical and theatrical events. Herrnstrasse 30 (% 089/291-884. As southern Germany’s cultural capital. S-Bahn: Rosenheimerplatz).

the music is jazz. Kunstpark Ost. Tram: 19). attracting soccer stars. Nightclubs Set within an old factory. use 089.m. restaurants. and soul. to 3 a.m. call % 110. Emergencies For emergency medical aid. For the fire department. City Code The city telephone code for Munich is 089.). and waves of “ordinary” patrons to its bar. to 6 a. and Thursday through Saturday from 7 p.282 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Monday through Wednesday from 6 p. to 3 a. Cover ranges from 4€ to 8€ ($5–$10). Maximilianplatz 5 (% 089/595-900. Internet Access Times Square Online Bistro in the Hauptbahnhof. www. is done up like an Edwardian-era London club and attracts an eclectic assortment of locals and tourists. movie stars. Business Hours See the appendix for details. Nachtcafé. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). to 11:30 p. a bistro.m. Tram: 49). and Saturday from 9:30 a. is one of the most happening nightspots in Munich. to 6 p.m. and bar. discos start around 10:30 p. Frauenstrasse 11 (% 089/229-909. See also “Telephone” in the appendix. is a complex of bars. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof). to 12:30 p. and stage shows (which begin at 11 p. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number.m. 36 Maximilianstrasse (% 089/229-060. The club is open nightly from 6 p. If you’re calling within Munich. to 1 a. call % 112. Charles Schumann. Promenadeplatz 6 (% 089/2280-1465. and is open daily from 7:30 a.m. this is it. The bar is open Sunday through Friday from 5 p. The place is open daily from 9 p.m.m. Tram 19). if you’re looking for a chic spot.m.times-square.m. . (don’t show up before then).m. mixed and/or invented by the owner. to 2 a. If you’re within Germany but not in Munich.m. Master’s has computer workstations. No cover charge. The décor is updated 1950s. writers. Bayerstrasse side (% 089/ 5508-8000.m.m. to 1 a. Currency Exchange You can exchange money at the currency exchange in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) daily from 6 a. Schumanns American Bar.m. and dance clubs. If you get hungry there is a restaurant on the premises.m. You can move from venue to venue according to your interest.m. Use 89 if you’re calling Munich from outside Germany. restaurant. Fast Facts: Munich American Express American Express. blues. Grafingerstrasse 6 (% 089/ 4900-2730. or for the police. offers expensive cocktails. All the bars open by 8 p.m. is open for mail pickup and check cashing Monday through Friday from 9 a.m.

and Saturday from 9 a. to 4 p. to 3 p.m. a drugstore where English is spoken. Restrooms You find restrooms in cafes. and Sunday from 9 a.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Pharmacies International Ludwig’s Apotheke. to 8 p. especially pickpocketing and purseand camera-snatching. You find more information on Munich and Bavaria at www. Post Office The Postamt München (main post office) is across from the Hauptbahnhof.. . at Bahnhofplatz 1 (% 089/599-0870).com. Transit Assistance For information on the U-Bahn and trams. MVV.m. The office is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. and beer halls throughout the Altstadt. at % 089/4142-4344 or visit their Web site (www. is the best site for general information.m. Most robberies occur in the much-frequented tourist areas.. has its share of crime. Saturday from 8 a.m. Neuhauserstrasse 11 (% 089/260-3021. to 8 p. Web Sites The tourist office Web site (www.m. such as Marienplatz and the Hauptbahnhof. like all big cities. to 4 p.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. call the public-transportation authority.m. 283 Safety Munich.bavaria.

historic buildings. the region didn’t become a kingdom until 1806. houses with fancifully painted facades. gently rises through foothills covered with verdant pastures.100 years. Brief as it was. Bavaria abounds with romantic villages. Visitors find a great deal to enjoy in this mountainous region in addition to Ludwig’s castles. the southernmost part of Germany. world-class ski and winter-sports resorts. rococo churches. lake-splashed countryside.” depending on your interpretation) whose castles at Linderhof and Neuschwanstein draw millions of visitors. the legendary “dream king” (or “mad king. Upper Bavaria (Oberbayern). by order of Napoleon.” they mean only one: Ludwig II. Bavaria remained a kingdom until 1918. and nature on a grand scale. A . Ludwig’s castles mark the end of the Romantische Strasse. the fairy-tale castle of Ludwig II ᮣ Visiting the alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen ᮣ Day-tripping to Oberammergau and Schloss Linderhof lthough Bavaria’s recorded history dates back some 1. will give you a taste of what Bavaria has to offer. many Bavarians still regard that royal era with nostalgia. both easy daytrips from Munich.Chapter 16 Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring the medieval towns along the Romantic Road ᮣ Discovering Neuschwanstein. When they speak wistfully about “the king. and groves of evergreens to the dramatic heights of the Alps that divide Germany and western Austria. Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. one of Germany’s most beautiful scenic drives and one of the best ways to sample the delights of Bavaria. when a German republic replaced the Bavarian monarchy. or Romantic Road.

Würzburg: Franconian Fortress Würzburg on the River Main is a lovely.) If you’re arriving in Frankfurt. Augsburg. roughly. visit the Romantic Road’s Web site (www. The charms of this old. The major towns for overnight stays are Würzburg. The saying means. all of which I describe later in this chapter. which spread across southcentral Germany. Driving these 290km (180 miles) of specially marked lanes and secondary roads. From Munich (Chapter 15) you can drive 119km (74 miles) southwest to Füssen and drive the route in reverse. and Füssen. and remained so until Napoleon ended the power of the church in 1802. the old city center with its leafy squares and historic buildings. Though today it’s part of Bavaria. Würzburg was in ancient times an important town in the duchy of Franconia. people generally use the greeting grüss Gott (pronounced grease got) rather than guten Morgen (good morning) or guten Tag (good day).romantischestrasse. For more information. renting a car at Frankfurt airport (Chapter 20) is easy. winding from the vineyard-clad hills surrounding Würzburg south to the green alpine pastures and craggy forested peaks around Neuschwanstein Castle. the official start of the Romantic Road. You also can visit these towns by train as daytrips from Munich or Frankfurt. fear dikh). From there. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. or Romantic Road. graceful river and wine town are most obvious in the Altstadt. The two sights of most .” Goodbye is für Gott (for God. you can drive southeast 119km (74 miles) to Würzburg. were also princes of Franconia. many of them rebuilt after World War II (WWII). travelers enjoy an unfolding panorama of surprisingly beautiful rural landscapes interspersed with a host of small medieval cities. In three or four days of very easy driving. (See “The Romantic Road” map in this chapter. you can hit all the highlights. fear got) or für dich (for you. The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria If I had to recommend only one scenic drive in Germany. lively university town surrounded by miles of vineyards. The bishops of Würzburg.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 285 Greetings from Bavaria In it would be Bavaria’s Romantische Strasse. “God greets you. who took possession of the town in 1050.

www. to midnight. Rack rates for a double room run from 100€ to 210€ ($125–$262). and Sundays April through October from 10 a. to 3 p. take the A3 southeast and follow the signs to Würzburg. and Visa are accepted.m. to 2 p. herring filets with apples. Each room is different. (Jan–Mar until 4 p. American Express. Diners Club.286 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany interest to tourists are the Residenz. www.m. wuerzburg.m. fruity Franconian wines of the region go well with anything. and Visa are accepted. American Express. breakfast included. with the big buffet breakfast an additional 15€ ($19). Finding information The tourist information office. or anywhere else in Germany.m. is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. Dettelbachergasse 2. The medium-sized rooms are decorated in an unobtrusive contemporary style and have good-sized bathrooms with tub and shower. Main courses range from 8€ to 18€ ($10–$22). and pickles in sour cream.greifensteiner-hof.). light. Saturday from 10 a. roasted meats. www. Maritim Hotel Würzburg. Marktplatz 9 (% 0931/37-23-98. is a lovely place to sit outside on a warm evening and dine on Franconian specialties of the Würzburg area. Pleichortorstrasse 5. Munich (21⁄2 hours).bahn. is a pleasant. (See the “Würzburg” map in this chapter. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information on the city. www. For train information. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/ 35170. (Jan–Mar until 1 in the Hotel Greifensteiner Hof (described in the preceding section). and Sunday 11 a.m.m.) Getting there If you come by car from MasterCard. Dining in Würzburg The Fränkische Stuben. Dettelbachergasse 2 (% 09861/87809). onions.maritim. You can easily reach Würzburg by train from Frankfurt (11⁄2 hours). with nice designer touches and a smallish bathroom. their earlier fortress-castle high on a hill overlooking the town. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/30530. to 6 p.m. MasterCard. American Express. A standard double room goes for 60€ to 90€ ($75–$112) per night. is a charming 40-room hotel right in the heart of the Altstadt behind the Marienkirche.m. The fresh. and Visa are accepted. to 2 p. Diners Club. the baroque palace of the princebishops.m. an onion tart).m.m. MasterCard. . call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. and the Festung Try fresh fish in Riesling wine sauce. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday 11 a. Diners Club.). Staying in Würzburg Greifensteiner Hof. or Zwiebelkuchen ( modern hotel within easy walking distance of the Altstadt.

T.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 287 The Romantic Road Schweinfurt Aschaffenburg E41 E45 0 20 mi Bamberg 0 Bamberg 20 km Wiesentheid 3 E43 8 E45 73 Würzburg rzburg Werthelm 47 RO A D RO M AN TI C Castle Church Forchheim Erlangen 27 Mittenberg Amorbach 27 Tauberbischofsheim Lauda-k nigshofen Lauda-königshofen Röttingham ttingham 290 Creglingen 25 Bad Mergentheim Weikersheim Weikersheim Fürth rth Nürnberg rnberg Herrgottskirche HO H OH HE ENLO N LOH H E R EB E BE ENE E50 O. Rothenburg o.T.Schongau oberdorf Wildsteig Bo Wangen im Allgäu Allg de ns ee Peiting Rottenbuch Murnau Steingaden Wieskirche Wies Oberammergau Wies Schwangau 17 Neuschwanstein Walchen Hohenschwangau Walchensee Penzberg Füssen ssen B11 SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA LEC ER EN AL L P HT A GarmischPartenkirchen Zugspitze . Schillingf rst Schillingfürst Ansbach Schwabach Roth 2 KIS 2 Heilbronn Murrhardt Backnang Winnenden 29 Crailsheim E43 25 Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl Ellingen CH E45 Feuchtwangen Gunzenhousen Gunzenhausen 19 Wallerstein Aalen 29 Schwabisch Schwäbisch Gmünd Gm nd rdlingen Nördlingen 25 ALB Harburg 16 FR Ingolstadt Neuberg-ander-Donau Donauw rth Donauwörth AD RO AD RO AN CC M TITI RO AN M RO 16 16 Ellwangen (Jagst) UC H Heidenheim an der Brenz Goppingen Kirchheim unter Teck E52 E43 28 Nürtingen rtingen 28 Dillingen an der Donau AN Ä 300 Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Munich 2 Ulm Augsburg 17 E A LB To Munich E52 E50 Ehingen (Donau) 30 E43 312 Friedberg Area of detail Krumbach (Schwaben) Olching Fürstenfeldbruck rstenfeldbruck Landsberg E54 am Lech TIC ROAD ROMAN Biberach an der Riß Ri 312 E54 Mindelheim Herbertingen 32 30 Landsberg 17 Memmingen Kaufbeuren Leutkirch im Allgäu Allg Kempten Immenstadt im Allgäu Allg Lindau Sonthofen Diessen Ammersee Starnberg Herrsching Hohenfurch Hohen B2 Starnbergersee E533 Weingarten Ravensburg E43/54 Markt.d.D.

where main courses range from 6€ to 15€ ($7.50–$19). Kilian.m. the 345-room Residenz. MasterCard. Mary’s Church). American Express. you come to the Romanesque Dom (Cathedral) St. the liveliest square in Würzburg. also is worth visiting. which will take you right up to the gate. with a ceiling covered by a huge fresco with mythological allegories painted by Tiepolo. and Visa are accepted. and. admission is 4. Behind the palace. or court garden. to 6 p. call % 0931/37-23-36 or visit the festival’s Web site (www. or stairway. Guided tours in English are given daily at 11 a. and the Weisser Saal (White Hall) and Gartensaal (Garden Room). reached by crossing the late-15th-century Alte Mainbrücke (Old Main Bridge) and following the marked footpath (you can also take the no.288 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankish foods with an occasional French twist are served at the atmospheric Ratskeller Würzburg.–4 p. Langgasse 1 (% 0931/13021). one of the oldest churches . Homemade sausage mixed with fried potatoes and eggs.m. Residenzplatz 2 (% 0931/35-51-70). Continuing west on Domstrasse from the cathedral. up to the Festung Marienburg. and 3 p. which takes place during the first three weeks in June. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. for local transportation information call % 0931/36-13-52 or visit www.m. the Marktplatz (Market Square). The most important areas to visit are the vaulted Treppenhaus. 9. just north of it. is open daily from noon to midnight. The Residenz is open daily from 9 a. Exploring Würzburg The town is compact enough so that you can walk everywhere — except. begun in 1040 and rebuilt after extensive damage in WWII. For more information on this popular event. % 09317/20-59-40). both slathered with a riot of fanciful stucco work.wvv. Marienburg Fortress is a huge complex of buildings that includes within its walls the eighthcentury Marienkirche (St. One of the annual highlights of Würzburg’s cultural year is the Mozart Festival. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (Nov–Mar 10 a. perhaps. you come to the Rathaus. Domstrasse (% 0931/3211830). Crowning the high slope on the west side of the Main is the Festung Marienburg (Marienburg Fortress. 9 bus from the Residenz). The or roast beef with fried onions and potatoes make for filling feasts. the Hofkirche.50€ ($5.).de). Following Hofstrasse west from the Residenz. a court chapel with colored marble columns and two important altar paintings by Tiepolo. mozartfest-wuerzburg.m.m. with tables on the square in good weather.m.50). Many of the concerts by renowned musicians are performed in the beautiful baroque rooms of the Residenz. accessible by a scenic footpath up or bus no.50). Considered one of the most important palaces in Europe and a masterpiece of the baroque era. the formal and elegant Hofgarten. was completed in 1744 by architect Balthasar Neuman for Prince-Bishop Johann von Schönborn.

r Augustinerst Büttnerstr.m. Juliusspital Schönbornstr. nstr.50€ ($2) students. (until 4 p. 0 125 meters ACCOMMODATIONS and DINING Fränkische Stuben 2 Greifensteiner Hof 2 Maritim Hotel Würzburg 1 Ratskeller Würzburg 3 ATTRACTIONS Alte Mainbrücke 4 Dom 6 Festung Marienburg & Mainfrankisches Museum 5 Residenz 7 in Germany. rst ine z u tr.m. to 5 p. rone eik Dr Th r te ea Karmelitenstr Mai nkai . Neue Universität g rrin de San rich Fried tos E b ter g Rin Südbahnhof en s d tr. San der str. - Re nn tr. Würzburg Munich Hauge rring . Ot tr. e ls m m e S Kr o a t e n g a sse Platz r. Sand l a ci nts 0 1/8 mile Ludwigsbrücke Am tenden Stu haus Fr ie tr. Pro Neum me nad anne Renn weg 7 MAINVIERTEL Saalgasse ALTSTADT Dom 5 er s chu lstr . wi gs r. H e i nes tr. Alte Universität Bal HOFGARTEN Burkarder Tor Leistenstr. in winter). Z e l l er S i Dom Altes 3 (St. . tpo Lui lds tr. and the Mainfränkisches Museum. str genrin Koell Hauptbahnhof (train station) Rönt g erst r. the great Gothic master woodcarver (see the nearby sidebar). Marktplatz Ka p E ic h h n or .75) adults. 6 brücke . The one must-see attraction in this local history collection is the room devoted to the carved wooden sculptures of Tilman Riemenschneider. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Neubaustr. Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg From Würzburg. admission is 3€ ($3. 1. Kais sden Frie rücke b ikerst 2 th.m. the Romantic Road leaves the River Main and follows Route 27 in a southwesterly direction to the town of Tauberbischofsheim Ka N erg sstr. str d Lu weger Ring kai nen Kra n Mai 1 Juliu s e enad prom tr.Berliner Wörthstr.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 289 i Würzburg Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Information er im he ch hö its Ve . str . Kilian) Rathaus n ai Alte M 4 Domstr.

just 51km (32 miles) southeast of Würzburg. Riemenschneider was imprisoned and tortured. is one of the major highlights along the Romantic Road. You can see more work by this great artist at the Herrgottskirche near Creglingen on the Romantic Road.20€ ($1. a completely intact walled medieval city located on a high promontory above the Tauber River. This small. During the Peasants’ Revolt of 1525.m. has been a tourist destination for nearly a century.290 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Tilman Riemenschneider: Würzburg’s master woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). The church. this master woodcarver sided with the rebels and incurred the implacable wrath of the prince-bishops.50€ ($1. admission is 3.90). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. the only museum in the world devoted to the history of thimbles. Another 18km (11 miles) on B19 brings you to Creglingen.–5 p.80€ ($4. located on a signposted road about 2km (11⁄2 miles) south of Creglingen in Herrgottstal. to 5:30 p. (Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 2–5 p. . Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories Rothenburg. whose incredibly expressive wood sculptures are the highlight of the Mainfränkisches Museum. .m. the Deutschordensmuseum (Teutonic Knights Museum. within the palace complex.. The town.50) for children 6 to 12. It’s interesting . He died shortly after being released from prison.m.m.50€ ($1. lived and worked in Würzburg for 48 years. a palace used by royal princes and the medieval order of Teutonic Knights.75) adults. % 07933/370).m. to 12:30 p. is open Tuesday through Sunday 10:30 a.90). worth a stop to see the famous carved wooden altar by Tilman Riemenschneider in the Herrgottskirche.m. dating from 1389. As a result of his political views. Sun 10:30 a.m. and 2 to 5 p. admission is 1. serving as both a councilor and mayor.m. Riemenschneider. and from .. The church is open daily from 9:15 a. created an extraordinarily beautiful altar with figures representing the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin framed by scenes from her life. Devoted to armor and weaponry. Across the road from the church is the small Fingerhutmuseum (Thimble Museum. described in the “Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg” section of this chapter. the master woodcarver from Würzburg. 1.m. and between 1505 and 1510. admission is 1.). It quickly became a place of pilgrimage. where you pick up B290 to Bad Mergentheim.. was built where a farmer plowing his fields claimed to have found a sacred host. attractive spa town is worth a stop to stroll along its pretty cobbled streets and to have a quick look at the Deutschordenschloss. you buy your ticket at a machine outside the church. to 5 p. 47km (29 miles) south of Würzburg. % 07931/52212). if you’re into that sort of thing.m.

de).bahn. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. continue south from Creglingen on B290. or Stuttgart. www. . (See the “Rothenburg ob der Tauber” map in this chapter. Heidelberg. Don’t let that deter you from visiting this remarkable reminder of Germany’s medieval past. For train information.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 291 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Ci 1 ty wall Bezold weg Kling enschutt Ro se e ngas Kling 3 5 Schrannenplatz Ju d e n gass e 2 G 4 e alg nga sse sen ga sse Klostergasse Herrn g asse 6 7 8 10 i DINING Burgerkeller 5 Gasthof Marktplatz 6 Ratsstube 8 ATTRACTIONS Castle Gardens 11 Klingenbastei 1 Marktplatz 9 Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum 12 Plönlein 13 Rathaus und er Ratstrinkstube 7 R iv r e Reichsstadtmuseum 2 a Spitalbastei 14 St. but you need to transfer at Würzburg or Ansbach and again at Steinach. You also can reach Rothenburg by train from Nuremberg.-Jakobskirche 3 e N a ug sse Ci Hamburg 12 ga eng W ty sse wa Berlin G E R MA NY am Main 11 Kirche Burg gas se Al a St dt t e gr a be MarktFranziskaner platz n 9 Rödergasse ll Frankfurt Cit y wall 13 T Heilig-GeistKirche 0 Spitalgasse Rothenburg ob der Tauber Munich ub Church Information 1/8 mile 125 meters i N ACCOMODATIONS Burghotel 4 Hotel Eisenhut 10 14 0 May through September you’ll likely encounter hordes of visitors.

Everything about the 15-room Burg Hotel.). Marktplatz (% 09861/40492. old-fashioned Swabian dishes. Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Burgerkeller.m. serves hearty. American-style breakfasts also are available. on the square to the right of the Rathaus. and on Sunday from noon to 6 p.m. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. The restaurant is open daily except Wednesday from 11:30 a. local cooking and sample local wines. . to 11 p.m. to 2 p.m. The Gasthof also rents out simple. Double rooms go for 90€ to 170€ ($112–$212). parking costs 7. MasterCard and Visa are accepted.–1 p. Rothenburg’s premier hotel.m.m. breakfast included). Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22)..burghotel. Boutique hotel standards prevail.m.50€ ($9.m.gasthofmarktplatz. including breakfast. such as Käsespätzle (cheesecoated noodles) cooked with onions. carless Marktplatz. Herrngasse 24 (% 09861/2126). Klostergasse 1–3.m.50–$13) for a main course. Grüner Markt 10 (% 09861/6722. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information about the city.m. Staying in Rothenburg See Chapter 22 for a description of Hotel Eisenhut ($$–$$$$). some with a nice view of busy. Gasthof Marktplatz. Expect to pay 6€ to 10€ ($7. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday 11 a.m. and Sat 10 a. Standard dishes include Maultaschensuppe (stuffed pasta in broth) and Nuremberg sausages on sauerkraut.rothenburg. basic. inexpensive rooms (38€–48€/$47–$60. and 6 to 9 p. has a tavernlike interior and is a favorite of those who prefer hearty cooking (including sauerbraten and venison) without a lot of fuss and bother.m. rothenburg. Diners Club. and 6 to 9 p. from its half-timbered facade at the end of a cobblestone cul-de-sac to its large.m. prettily decorated rooms with views out across the Tauber Valley. is open May through October Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. Marktplatz 6 (% 09861/92411). It isn’t gourmet by any stretch. Saturday and Sunday from 10 The Ratsstube.292 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Finding information Tourist Information. American Express. more like German comfort food.m. (closed Jan–Mar). www. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. www. to 6 p. www. Main courses range from 8€ to 14€ ($10–$17). housed in a 16th-century cellar (with tables outside in nice weather). a pork schnitzel with cream sauce. 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber (% 09861/94890. to 2 p. No credit cards are accepted. and Visa are accepted. and the entire hotel is nonsmoking. to 3 p.50). (Nov–Apr Mon–Fri until 5 p. and Jä in the town hall. is a pleasant spot to dine on good. is picturesque.

He said he would spare the town from destruction if one of the town burghers could down the huge tankard in one draught.m. Burggasse 3–5 (% 09861/ 5359).m. chief protagonists in the drinking bout that saved Rothenburg. Windows on either side of the lowest clock open at 11 a. part 13th-century Gothic. a 31⁄2-liter (6-pint) tankard of wine. Adjacent to the Rathaus. to 6 p. is the Ratstrinkstube (Councilors’ Tavern).. as victor. the other half sits on a high ridge above the Tauber River. December and March daily from 10 a. and an iron maiden. .m. and 10 p. As you’re walking.m.30€ ($3) for students.m. thus saving Rothenburg and giving himself a three-day hangover. 9. in 1881. At the center of Rothenburg is the bustling Marktplatz (Market Square) dominated by the Rathaus (% 09861/40492).m. a shame flute for bad musicians. 3. Former mayor Nusch accepted the challenge and succeeded.m. 2. You can buy them in bakeries all across town. and 1. The museum is open April through October daily from 9:30 a. shame masks. captured the Protestant city of Rothenburg and was given. 2.m. admission 1€/$1. Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber Medieval walls encircle almost half of Rothenburg. Admission is 3. commander of the armies of the Catholic League. part 16th-century Renaissance. you get a great view of the town (open Apr–Oct 9:30 a. The play forms the centerpiece of a weekend festival that takes place every September in Rothenburg. when hundreds of citizens dress up in period costumes and re-create the period of the Master Draught. to reveal the figures of General Tilly and Herr Nusch.50€ ($4. round pastries covered with powdered sugar. and now serving as the tourist information office.–12:30 p. take a walk on a portion of the town ramparts from the massive 16thcentury Spitalbastei (a medieval tower-gate at the end of the Spitalgasse) to the Klingenbastei (another tower-gate). South of the Rathaus. Here’s a rare chance to see chastity belts.25). during the Thirty Years’ War.. a 14th-century hospital with Rothenburg’s only 18th-century baroque facade houses the macabre Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime Museum). noon. called Die Meistertrunk (The Master Draught).m. to 4 p.) tower..50) adults.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 293 The Master Draught: How Mayor Nusch saved Rothenburg In 1631. Then just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere in one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. For an excellent visual introduction. General Tilly.. and 1–5 p. look for a Rothenburg specialty called Schneeballen (snowballs) — crisp. an old inn with three clocks on its gabled facade.m. This historical episode was performed as a festival play. Medieval crime and punishment are the fascinatingly gruesome subjects of the museum’s displays. a dunking basket. November and January through February daily from 2 to 4 p. From the top of its 50m (165-ft.

Grüner Markt (% 09861/7166). you also pass neatly tended farms and fields. North and south of Rothenburg.50€ ($1. the drive parallels the lovely.m.000. to 4:45 p. which is housed in a 700year-old Dominican nunnery with well-preserved cloisters.m. a collection of gold coins. With a population of about 260. and objects of local interest. described earlier in this chapter. where two streets. Shopping in Rothenburg Kunstwerke Friese. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. to noon and 2 to 4 p. James). Open hours are April through October daily from 10 a. Klosterhof 5 (% 09861/93-9043). Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg The charm of driving along the Romantic Road is enhanced by the bucolic landscapes seen between the villages.50 (65¢) children. Two walled medieval towns worth a stop and stroll are Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen. Admission is 1.. a masterpiece created by the Würzburg sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider. November and January through March daily 10 a. One particularly pretty spot with lovely views over the Tauber Valley is Castle Gardens.294 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Gothic St. churches. drinking vessels.) The fine painted-glass windows in the church choir date from the late Gothic period.75) for adults. 1. a Christmas-related emporium loaded with thousands upon thousands of Christmas ornaments. it’s the largest town along the Romantic Road and serves as a . It displays medieval panel paintings. 2€ ($2.m. Every day is Christmas at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Weinachtsdoft (Christmas Village). and dolls.. convent hall.-Jakobskirche (Church of St. December daily 10 a.50€ ($2) adults. No must-see sights are in either town. squares. just the picturesque streets. to 5 p. to 5:15 p. and houses. Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance Augsburg is a city of pleasant surprises. armaments. November through March daily from 1 to 4 p. an upper and a lower.m. Klostergasse 15 (% 09861/700-620). converge.m. Just northwest of the Jakobskirche is the Reichsstadtmuseum (City Museum).50) for students and seniors..m. 0. pewter beer steins. (Riemenschneider’s work also is on view in Würzburg and in the Herrgottskirche. is worth visiting to see the Heiliges-Blut-Altar (Altar of the Holy Blood). specializes in cuckoo clocks and carries Hummel figurines.m. Rothenburg has plenty of picturesque nooks and crannies to explore. Also look for the photogenic corner known as the Plönlein.90) for children 6 to 18.m. leafy Tauber Valley. The church is open daily April through October from 9 a.m. Driving along B25. Herrngasse 1 (% 09861/4090). and kitchen. on the way to Augsburg. a park on the site of the imperial castle. music boxes.

A stroll through Augsburg reveals an attractive urban landscape loaded with historic buildings. 0 0 Church Information 1/8 mile Stettenstr. Armen h ausg. under the patronage of the enormously wealthy Fugger family. Jakoberst r.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. ACCOMMODATIONS ATTRACTIONS Bert. 7 8 Jakobertor tr. Anna 9 a Un f. The city was founded some 2. ass ilian erg Maxim int W llee er–A nau Ade benstr. tenau Grot glerg. G ra b en i ter n rabe .igst r . r au lm allst e g Vo berw o Hamburg Jak Berlin Katharine ngasse 10 11 GERMANY Forster 12 H a l l s t r. J ako ber uer ma Unt. charming corners. Rathausplatz An 9 nas i Fuggerei Kap p ene ck Jakoberwallturm Vogeltor Z e ug g er .000 years ago by the Roman emperor Augustus and reached its cultural zenith during the Renaissance. erst Be e str. Rotes Tor 125 meters gateway to the Bavarian Alps.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 295 Augsburg uz re Au f m de Je su i K St 1 2 hl e ass ng te rg Hofgarten Lu dw Obstmarkt Stadt. Ulrichs Weite G a s e platz s K itzenmarkt t Pro vinos Schwibbogen platz R boldstr. and the lively ambience of a university town. Afra Prinzstr. Spen e Mauer b P Ra u h ec w o ff st r rdsberg Leonha 4 5 6 P il g e r h a usstr. nto ue Fr a eg Ho he r W L au Mittl. theater Karlstr. Maria 3 e d e Rirestaurant) (hotel and 1 Fuggerei 8 Steigenberger Drei Fugger-Stadtpalais 11 FünfgratMohren 10 Mozarthaus 2 turm Perlachturm 5 ü DINING b s n Rathaus 6 Fuggerei Stube G 7ä a elsu Schaezlerpalais 12 c a r St.G Ob Fugg r. rad– ra Kon chiessg S sse kerga Bäc . ethov enstr str . Am S all ch w am Main Frankfurt Kapuzine r g Augsburg Munich r. (See the “Augsburg” map in this chapter. Trains from Frankfurt (trip time about 3 hours) Le ch h 3 r. continue on B25 south from Rothenburg to Augsburg. em St. . Brech Romantikhotel t Brechthaus 4 OblatterwallAugsburger Hof rstr turm Dom St. Ulrich und Kirchgasse St. Graben i N us e rstr.

call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. the rest of the year (7€/$8.–1 p. www. The office also offers a two-hour bus tour May through October Thursday through Sunday at 10 a.m. and Visa are accepted. and Visa are accepted. Dining in Augsburg For fine food and impeccable service in lovely surroundings. The best way to appreciate Augsburg’s architectural and cultural heritage is by taking the walking tour (in German and English) offered by the tourist office daily at 2 p. Larger (and quieter) rooms face an inner courtyard. Rack rates for a double room range from 145€ to 165€ ($181–$206).bahn. and Saturday from 10 a. augsburg-tourismus. an unpretentious local eatery. 86150 Augsburg (% 0821/50360. American Express.m. open Monday through Friday 9 a. American Express. Fuggerei Stube. dine at the restaurant in the Romantikhotel Augsburger www.augsburg. The 102-room Steigenberger Drei Mohren.m.augsburger-hof. dispenses general information. is the town’s full-service luxuryoriented hotel. Diners Club.). serves generous portions of Swabian food with a few “inter- . The best are large and comfortable. MasterCard. to 6 p. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. Staying in Augsburg Romantikhotel Augsburger For train information. All tours begin at the Rathaus.steigenberger. distributes city maps. with marble-clad bathrooms with big bathtubs. is a 36-room boutiquestyle hotel located just minutes from central Rathausplatz and all Augsburg attractions. Service is friendly and efficient. though the rooms vary in size and level of finesse. Rooms are nicely done with exposed beams in some and small but well-designed bathrooms with showers. MasterCard. (Sun in summer 10 a. 86152 Augsburg (% 0821/34-30-50.m. on Saturdays at 2 p.75).m.m.m. Maximilianstrasse 40. on Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. from May through October. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. The hotel’s restaurant is one of the best in town. Expect to pay 12€ to 25€ ($15–$31) for main courses. Rathausplatz (% 0821/502-0724.m. Diners Club. Jakoberstrasse 26 (% 0821/30870). Auf dem Kreuz 2. and can help you find a room.296 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Munich (trip time about 30 minutes) arrive frequently throughout the day.m. where the rear dining room is paneled in pale linden wood and the menu contains lots of Bavarian and Swabian specialties. Auf dem Kreuz 2 (% 0821/34-30-50). The hotel’s new (2006) Meder’s Bar and Grill serves smaller-portion German and international dishes throughout the day. Doubles go for 97€ to 130€ ($121–$162) and include a good breakfast buffet. to 1 p. (9€/$11).

on Jakobsplatz in the old residential quarter of town.m.50€ ($4. Ulrich and St. A late-18th-century mansion. Holbein.m. The church. West of Rathausplatz. The interior is famous for its sumptuous Goldener Saal (Golden Hall). to 3 p. one of the most important building complexes in Augsburg. St. to 6 p. The Augustus fountain in front of the Rathaus was dedicated on the occasion of the town’s 1.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 297 national” dishes. designed by Elias Holl and completed in 1620. Maximilianstrasse. calves’ liver with apples. 10 a. A pair of churches. In 1518.m.. and roast potatoes. produce. fixed-price menu 19€ ($24). demarcate the southern end of Maximilianstrasse. to 6 p. both considerably rebuilt after damage in WWII. you’ll find the Fuggerei. The tower. to 2 p.600th birthday in 1594. The Rathaus. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). which can be visited only as part of a Rathaus tour (daily May–Oct. both dating from 1500. . noted for its old masters painting collection with works by Dürer. Anna. Afra. on the Annahof. Am Rathausplatz 2 (% 0821/324-9180).m. and Cranach. you find the city market with stalls selling flowers. Maximilianstrasse 46 (% 0821/324-4125). next to the Rathaus. If you climb to the top of the soaring spire of the Perlachturm (Perlach Tower). and Visa are accepted. Rathausplatz. on Annahof. you’ll be rewarded with a marvelous view of the old town center. and 5:30 to 11 p. is one of the most significant secular buildings of the German Renaissance. stretches south from Rathausplatz. MasterCard. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a. 7€/$8. to 6 p. Sunday 11:30 a. stands St. the Schaezlerpalais. and still in use today.m. admission is 3.m. onions. Right next to the church.m. Look for potato cream soup with mushrooms.m. The first almshouses in the world. and vegetarian offerings. As you stroll along Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. of what was once the Fugger-Stadtpalais (Fugger City Palace). the Fuggerei was built in 1523 by Jacob Fugger the Rich.50). is dominated by two imposing Renaissance-era buildings. Martin Luther stayed in the adjoining monastery when he was called to Augsburg to recant his 95 Theses before a papal emissary. ornamented by three large Renaissance-era fountains and lined with shops and fine patrician houses. is open May through October from 10 a. American Express.m.. Exploring Augsburg Augsburg’s main square. and much more. duck into the courtyard of Maximilianstrasse 36 to have a look at the Damenhof. which contains paintings by Lucas Cranach and the chapel of the Fugger family. chicken breast with curry and rice.. and 3 p.m. pastries. capped by a distinctive dome called an “Augsburg onion” (you’ll see these onion domes on churches all across Augsburg and as you head south into Bavaria).m.75). is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. houses the Bavarian State Gallery. East of Maximilianstrasse. a former Carmelite monastery church dating from 1321. or Ladies’ Court.

a church. admission to each is 1. It’s open March through December daily from 10 a. Admission is free.m.). but then the verdant (or snow-covered) pastures of the Bavarian Alps appear..–5 a. who worked on the church with his brother from 1746 to 1754. . gilded stucco. and bright frescoes. where Wolfgang’s father. Frauentorstrasse 30 (% 0821/324-3984).m. Auf dem Rain 7 (% 0821/324-2779) was the birthplace of playwright Bertolt Brecht (1898–1956) and today serves as a Brecht memorial.50€ ($2). Leopold.298 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Wieskirche: Masterpiece in a meadow On the stretch of B17 from Augsburg to Füssen. to 6 p. are found in the south transept of Augsburg’s cathedral. dating from the 12th century.m.m. the lightflooded interior with its enormous cupola shimmers with a superabundance of woodcarvings. statues. Surrounded by walls and gates (locked 10 p. Tiny but fascinating. Ludwig II’s famous castle in the Bavarian Alps. Residents pay an annual rent of 1€ (equivalent to one old Rhenish guilder) and are expected to pray three times a day for the soul of their benefactor. to 5 p. The church is open daily from 8 a. a fountain. a remarkable pilgrimage church in a beautiful alpine meadow (the name means “church in the meadow”). Dom St. The Brechthaus. (Apr–Sept until 7 p. Behind a rather sober facade.). backtrack to B17 and follow it south to Neuschwanstein.m. lived in the Fuggerei almshouse at Mittlere Gasse 14. the Fuggerei Museum. Maria. and a park. To return to the Romantic Road. where you find the Wieskirche (% 08862/501). the cathedral features Gothic frescoes.. a master mason reduced to penury. I strongly recommend that you make a short detour to Wies. 6km (4 miles) southeast of the town of Steingaden off B17.m. this rococo masterpiece was created by Dominikus Zimmermann (1685–1766). you may want to take a look at the humble Mozarthaus. Mittlere Gasse 13 (% 0821/3198810). Wolfie’s great-grandfather Franz Mozart. On this segment of the drive. Altered during the centuries. was born.25). The Mozarthaus and the Brechthaus are open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. to 5 p.m. lets you glimpse the interior of one of the cottages as it looked in centuries past. the compound looks like a miniature town with 67 identical cottages containing 147 small apartments. columns. admission is 1€ ($1. the Romantic Road passes through some industrialized areas that aren’t particularly appealing.m. If you’re a fan of Mozart. and a 14th-century bronze door. paintings by Hans Holbein the Elder.m. Hoher Weg (% 0821/316-6353). One of the world’s most exuberantly decorated buildings. Some of the oldest stained-glass windows in Germany.

feed your ticket into the turnstile in front of the respective castle.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 299 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air Located 116km (72 miles) southwest of Munich. Maximilian II. Tours in English are available throughout the day. is the less remarkable and more intimate of the two.m. it’s a 7km (4-mile) drive along a signposted road. A ticket office near the parking lot of the castles sells tickets for both Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. Saturday from 9 a. One parking lot serves both castles. Münchenerstrasse 2 (% 08362/81980). the two Bavarian royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein (and the nearby town of Füssen) mark the end of the Romantic Road. the nearest large town (described later in this chapter).) The royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein are the most popular tourist attractions in Germany. receiving nearly a million visitors a year. Queen Maria of Prussia. The rooms of Hohenschwangau were designed and furnished in a ponderous “Gothic Castle” style that was fashionable in the 1830s and 1840s. On the ruins. was the fairy-tale concoction of Maximilian’s son. 9713) arrive from Füssen. he built the Neo-Gothic castle you see today and used it as a summer holiday residence. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. When the time comes. On some days. open Monday through Friday from 8 a. From there. 25. You can see the castles only on guided tours. parking costs 4€ ($5). which last about 35 minutes each. built by Maximilian II in 1836. the most photographed building in Germany. Ten buses a day (no. Exploring Hohenschwangau The castle was a 600-year-old ruin when Ludwig’s father. to noon. try to arrive as soon as the castles open in the morning. then Bavaria’s crown prince. King Ludwig II. bought it in 1832. To save yourself time. head south along B17 to Schwangau. to 5 p. Ludwig II spent much of his joyless childhood at Hohenschwangau with his strait-laced father and his mother. A tour number and entry time are printed on your ticket. Getting there If you’re driving from Augsburg along the Romantic Road. Neuschwanstein. Hohenschwangau. Finding information and buying tickets Information about both castles and the region in general is available in Schwangau at the Kurverwaltung (tourist office) in the Rathaus. especially in August. A digital sign informs you when your tour is ready. Be prepared for long lines (sometimes up to 3 hours) in the summer..m.000 people visit. The tour guide will meet you inside.m. .

Richard Wagner. and the grand piano on which the two played duets.” For others. For many years. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults and 8€ ($10) for students and children 6 to 15. films. the first palace that he built (see “A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles. If you don’t want to walk. Three days later. The most famous of his design efforts is the turreted castle of Neuschwanstein. Was he murdered or did he commit suicide? No one knows. Ludwig’s excesses eventually threatened to bankrupt the kingdom. The crypt of the Michaelskirche (St. Alpseestrasse (% 08362/81127). the extravagant dream king financed Wagner. he often had Wagner’s operas performed for his own solitary pleasure. 170-step stairway and takes about ten minutes. who was first invited to Hohenschwangau by a teenaged Ludwig. he was found drowned in Lake Starnberg on the outskirts of Munich.m.m. A more picturesque way to reach Neuschwanstein is by horse-drawn carriage. he was declared insane. March 15 to October 15 hours are 8:30 a. and in 1886. you can take a bus to Marienbrücke.50€ ($4. Ludwig II was only 18 years old when he was crowned king of Bavaria. A patron of the composer Richard Wagner. Hohenschwangau. is open daily. Born in Munich in 1845. October 16 to March 14 hours are 9:30 a. plays. self-obsessed monarch has become one of the legendary figures in Bavarian history. and blue-eyed. named for the wall paintings depicting the saga of Lohengrin (a Germanic hero associated with the swan). Tall. at age 41. which begins at the ticket office.” This strange. Ludwig went so far as to reconstruct the Venus grotto from Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. Exploring Neuschwanstein Reaching the castle entrance involves a steep 800m (1⁄2-mile). At Linderhof. handsome. 30-minute climb from the parking lot at Hohenschwangau Castle. costs 3.” later in this chapter).25).m. The music room on the second floor contains copies of letters between Ludwig II and his musical idol.40) for the trip up to the castle . perched on a crag high above the town of Schwangau.. The carriage ride. Michael’s Church) in Munich contains Ludwig’s grave and those of other Wittelsbach royals. a bridge that crosses over the Pöllat Gorge and offers a panoramic view of the castle dramatically perched on its crag above. Ludwig grew bored with the affairs of state and eventually became more and more obsessed with acting out his extravagant fantasies. Biographies.m. which starts in front of the Schlosshotel Lisl near the parking lot. he is “the dream king. The Hall of the Swan Knight. along with the physician who had declared him insane. costs 1. to 4 p. the walk to the castle entrance includes a steep. The bus ride.300 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Ludwig II: Madman or dreamer? For some. From Marienbrücke. is one of the castle’s most attractive chambers.80€ ($2. and even a musical have been written about him. to 6 p. Ludwig II is “the mad king.

the German form of Art Nouveau. From April through September. After you leave the guided tour. A stairway of white Carrara marble leads up to the golden apse where the king’s throne was to stand. after Wartburg castle in Eisenach.m. Ludwig watched the construction of his dream palace through a telescope from neighboring Hohenschwangau. Between 1884 and 1886. a mural depicts the legend of the doomed lovers Tristan and Isolde. The king’s study is decorated with painted scenes from the medieval legend of Tannhäuser. Wagnerian and other classical music concerts take place in the Singer’s Hall. In September. the Sängerhalle (Singer’s Hall) takes up almost the entire fourth floor of the castle. Decorated with marble columns and frescoes depicting the life of Parsifal. The ornate bed rests on a raised platform with an elaborately carved canopy. another architectural fantasy. from 10 a. to 4 p. Architects modeled the room. Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults. The sumptuous ornamentation seen throughout the castle influenced Jugendstil.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 301 entrance and 1. with the mountains in the distance. the castle can be visited year-round by guided tour only. stopping only when Ludwig died in 1886. Artisans carved wall panels to look like Gothic windows. to 6 p. At Neuschwanstein. was never completed. designed to look like a Romanesque basilica with columns of red porphyry and a mosaic floor.m. Paintings of Christ looking down on the 12 Apostles and 6 canonized kings of Europe decorate the walls and ceiling. the site of song contests in the Middle Ages.m. Be aware that the carriages are sometimes crowded.) waterfall in the Pöllat Gorge. tours depart every half-hour from 9 a.. For information and reservations. October through March. Buy tickets from the bus driver or at the carriage. contact the Verkehrsamt (tourist office) in Schwangau (% 08362/81980). The intricate woodcarving in the king’s bedroom took 41⁄2 years to complete. 8€ ($10) for children and students.50€ ($1. . you can make your way down to see the enormous kitchens of the castle. Everything from curtains to chair coverings is made of silk embroidered with the gold-and-silver Bavarian coat of arms.90) for the descent. A 20-minute film about the life of Ludwig II is shown in an auditorium. the king lived in Neuschwanstein on and off for 170 days. Three days later he was dead. Through the balcony window you can see the 46m-high (150-ft.m. Located at Neuschwansteinstrasse 20 (% 08362/81035). a mythical medieval knight. Building began in 1869 and continued for some 17 years. The throne room. Tickets go on sale in early June and always sell out quickly. free for children ages 6 to 14. he received news of his dethronement.

winter hours are Monday to Friday from 9 a. to noon. or larger where the restaurant serves sandwiches. Main courses go for 8€ to 16€ ($10–$20). and Shrove Tuesday (the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday on the Christian calendar). Trains from Munich (trip time 21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (trip time 5–51⁄2 hours) arrive frequently throughout the day. to 6:30 when Füssen was a trading station. Divided by the Lech River. you can eat outdoors on the terrace of Hotel Müller. The 35 comfortable rooms are small to medium in size. and beverages. most have small . has been owned and operated by the same family for generations. 25. December 24. take the A8 Autobahn west to Landsberg and then head south on B17. Finding information Füssen Tourismus operates two tourist offices.) Getting there If you’re driving along the Romantic Road from From Munich. Summer hours are Monday to Friday 8:30 a. continue south on B17.hotel-hechten. If the weather is fine. For train information. and Saturday from 10 a. to 5 p.fuessen. the medieval town of Füssen marks the official end (or beginning) of the Romantic Road. and 31. Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road Situated in foothills of the Bavarian Alps. Füssen is an atmospheric place to headquarter while exploring the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau or other places in the Bavarian Alps. to noon. Ritterstrasse 6. desserts. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. another in the Rathaus (town hall). www. bahn.m.000 inhabitants has lovely squares and narrow cobblestone streets flanked by medieval stone houses. one at Kaiser-MaximilianPlatz 1. This spotless guesthouse with blooming flower boxes exudes an air of old-fashioned Bavarian hospitality. 119km (74 miles) southwest of Munich and just 3km (2 miles) from Neuschwanstein. Otherwise. this town of 15. soup.302 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Neuschwanstein is closed November 1.m. Dining near the castles Neuschwanstein has a pleasant cafe where you can get sandwiches. and Saturday from 10 a. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/ 93850 for both. (See the “Füssen” map in this chapter. Staying in Füssen Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten.m.m. Its history dates back to Roman times. you encounter no lack of restaurants (or hotels) right around the parking lot near Hohenschwangau. 87629 Füssen (% 08362/ 91600.m.m. January 1. www. herring.

Rack rates for a double room with buffet breakfast range from 74€ to 84€ ($92–$105). Located in 5 Lechfall 4 Museum der Stadt Füssen 6 shower-only bathrooms. rstr. The rooms all are furnished differently. Rupprechtstrasse Ziegelangerweg Schmid Sch lesie str. d- König-Lu dwi g-P hstif rom tstr en asse ad e bur ger stra str.-Samer-Str . Augustenstra sse Schiess haus gas se sse trass e Mar nh of strass Sud e ete nst nstrass e Rudolf strasse -F Sonne a ass e e ss stra sse uiterJesa g s se Ga sse ngasse s tr ost Ott asse ras s Lu itp old s tr e Hoc re y be rg -St r KaiserMaximilian.25 mi N Zi e l ge Bgm . American Express. Huterg. BAD FAULENBACH e strass Alatsee St. is a traditional Bavarian guesthouse with views of the mountains and nearby castles.-MaximilianKapelle ellenberg Kap Am F gässchen nbach aule Flos serg asse S t a dtbl iche e Hamburg Berlin uer Strasse wanga S ch e lbachgasse trass Müh S r e l ro Ti 4 Mü hle nw eg Lec h GE R M A NY Frankfurt Munich Füssen ACCOMMODATIONS Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten 2 Feriengasthof Helmer 8 DINING Fischerhütte 1 Zum Schwanen 7 ATTRACTIONS Hohes Schloss 3 Kloster St. The hotel is located directly below the castle in Füssen’s Altstadt (Old Town). Platz Se ba s ti a Schran n st nr ass gassne e e g asse i r.-SebastianKirche ALTER FRIEDHOF Fra nzi nerpla tz ska B ru nn e Kemptener Str. be Glü c Hin te re k A LT S TA D T hen Reic St. 2 3 e kt) riss Mo nmar e och W Mag nu sp l. be rg Tegel- Dr. 87645 Schwangau (% 08362/9800.25 km Str. Mitteldorf 10. Feriengasthof Helmer. Kemptener Str. and Visa are accepted. some have balconies. n Vo ZIEGELBERG 0 0. Theresienstras se Bahnhof Bah Aug s iens Kar l- Ege rlan str.Sc hulhausstr. Schwangau rsse Flo asse g . m er au er Rathaus 5 6 i Lec n t se d as 7 A Sta italg Sp d ( Dre he r Pfarrg. www.-Wa 1 der An dsaul Bil hhalde 8 To Schloss Neuschwanstein. MasterCard. a small village about 4km (21⁄2 miles) east of Füssen.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 303 Füssen Information Post Office Railway inkel genstr.hotel-helmer. Ritterstr. most have showers in r gs tras se i llner- Wachsb leiche Church I 0 0. B m arotrkt F r a n zisk a n erg. Schloss Hohenschwangau.

In the early 18th century. as a summer residence. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($8. . and 6:30 to 10 p. French-style bouillabaisse. % 08362/91970). Magnus died in 750. Service is helpful and attentive. American Express. Now the castle is the home of the Staatsgalerie. Johann-Jakob Herkomer.m. to 9:30 p. and Visa are accepted. The restaurant is open daily from 10 a. Diners can enjoy Bavarian specialties during the summer in an outdoor beer garden.) and charges 3€ ($3. specializes in seafood from around the world. to 2 p. reached by a steep lane behind the parish church. Access to the secularized church complex is through the Museum der Stadt Füssen (City Museum). Menu offerings may include Alaskan salmon.75) for adults. founded by Benedictine monks in the eighth century on the site where an Irish missionary monk named St. Zum Schwanen is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a. to 5 p. MasterCard. and portions are generous. Brotmarkt 4 (% 08362/6174). where you find a collection of Swabian artwork from the 1400s to the 1700s.75) for admission. 1–4 p. MasterCard is the only credit card accepted.-Mang (Monastery of St. fresh local trout. to 4 p. Rack rates for a double room with breakfast are 78€ to 108€ ($97–$135). one of the finest late-Gothic castles in Bavaria.m. Uferstrasse 16. a local architect. The Romanesque crypt in front of the high altar contains frescoes painted around A. children younger than 14 free. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a. Specialties include homemade sausage. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. Hopfen am See (5km/3 miles northwest of Füssen. Magnus).). turned the church and monastery into a baroque gem with a strong Venetian influence.m. Zum Schwanen. 1000.m. Small and old-fashioned. at the edge of a small lake within sight of dramatic mountain scenery.D. which occupies the former state apartments of the abbey and displays artifacts relating to the history and culture of the region. serves a flavorful blend of Swabian and Bavarian cuisine. Immediately below the castle lies the Kloster St. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.m. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/903-145).75–$22).m.m. (Nov–Mar 2–4 p. A few meat dishes are also available. roast pork. and venison.m. (Nov–Mar. lamb. The powerful prince-bishops of Augsburg used the Hohes Schloss. or grilled halibut.304 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the bathrooms. Magnusplatz (% 08362/903-146).m. Main courses go for 11€ to 25€ ($ 14–$ 31).m.m. Dining in Füssen Fischerhütte. North Atlantic lobster. including a collection of locally produced violins and lutes. Admission is 3€ ($3. Kids enjoy the nearby pool and find plenty of room to play outside. Reservations are recommended. Exploring Füssen Füssen’s main attraction is the Hohes Schloss (High Castle). Stay here if you want old-fashioned atmosphere.

The . the twin villages of Garmisch and Partenkirchen comprise Germany’s top winter-sports resort.m. Two giant peaks. Despite the commercial. Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze Located about 97km (60 miles) southwest of Munich. Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren $ Partenkirchen Located in Partenkirchen. to 6 p. www. hiding Germany’s tallest and in 1978.) In 1936. Finding information The tourist information office at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2 (% 08821/180700. a waterfall less than a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) south of town. The Bayerische Zugspitzbahn at Garmisch (% 08821/7970) provides rail service to the top of the Zugspitze and other local peaks. The trip time from Munich is about 11⁄2 hours.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 305 The Lechfall.m. Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoys a stunning location at the foot of the Wetterstein range. is a popular walk from Füssen. From Marienplatz. Garmisch’s main square. Getting there Trains run frequently from all directions to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. To reach GarmischPartenkirchen by car from Munich. A pedestrian footbridge spans the falls.m.garmisch-partenkirchen. you can walk to all the centrally located hotels. the trip takes about one is open Monday to Saturday from 8 a. (See the “Garmisch-Partenkirchen” map in this chapter. the fourth Winter Olympics took place here. take the A95 Autobahn and exit at Eschenlohe. rear up to the south of town. Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen A free municipal bus runs every 15 minutes between the Bahnhof (train station) and Marienplatz. the towns played host to the World Alpine Ski Championships. the famed Zugspitze. village atmosphere. For information and schedules. to noon. and streets and lanes (particularly in Partenkirchen) with a quiet. the quieter side of town. and Sundays and holidays from 10 a. this family-owned and -operated hotel offers cozy accommodations at moderate prices. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. located where the Lech River squeezes through a rocky gorge and over a high ledge. you still find charming details: the sound of cowbells in the meadows outside town. the Alpspitze and the Waxensteine. touristy air of the towns. The office supplies maps and details of area hikes and attractions.bahn.

try a soufflé.hotel-hilleprandt. Rates: 78€–112€ ($97–$140) double. See map The tiled bathrooms have either showers or tub-shower combinations. Reservations recommended. . and duck.m. Traditional Bavarian and Mediterranean specialties are on the menu. MC. % 08821/59055. See map p. Reservations recommended. 307. enjoying the panoramic views of the Alps and the colorful buildings that line the side streets. a pretty garden. AE. are small but very comfortable.–2:30 p. grilled salmon. V. and dancers provide Bavarian entertainment. pork cutlets. The best way to explore this international resort is simply to stroll around the town and its environs. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17).–11:30 p. Open: Daily except Tuesday 11 a.m. See map p. 307. ham hocks with sauerkraut. Rates: 70€–90€ ($87–$112) double. Children younger than 6 stay free in their parents’ room. Rates include buffet breakfast. % 08821/943040.m. and 5–10 p. % 08821/9270. % 08821/9130. musicians. Open: Daily 11:30 a. MC. Riffelstrasse 17.m. The food is hearty and uncomplicated: potato soup with wurst. and so are fresh trout. Fax: 08821/18974. some with a private balcony. with wooden balconies.m. Fax: 08821/74548. summer hiking. 307. Am Kurpark 10. each has a small bathroom with tub or shower. and ragout of venison. an outdoor terrace. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). See map p. The 13 rooms. 307. www. V.vierjahreszeiten. V. The hotel is close to the Zugspitze Bahnhof and the Olympic Ice Stadium. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. and mountain climbing. MC. DC. Gasthof Fraundorfer $ –$$ Partenkirchen BAVARIAN Visitors to Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoy this large restaurant because every evening yodelers. and a backdrop of forest-covered mountains. is an excellent budget choice. AE. Hotel Hilleprandt $ –$$ Garmisch This chalet. Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Alpenhof $ –$$ Garmisch BAVARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Locals regard the Alpenhof as one of the finest restaurants in Garmisch. MC. Closed 3 weeks in Nov. It’s a touristy scene but fun. Ludwigstrasse 65. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Ludwigstrasse 24. Rates include buffet breakfast. For dessert. Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a center for winter sports. www.306 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 25 rooms are comfortable without a lot of frills.

lst t st S t. fstr nho Bah Ol y m Ach tr. 6 ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Hilleprandt 2 Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren 5 DINING Alpenhof 1 Gasthof Fraundorfer 4 ATTRACTIONS Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum 3 Olympia-Skistadion 6 Church Information i Post Office Railway 0 0 0. Rathausplatz str.628 ft. Bahnhof Par tn ch tna Pa r ch a u a ss ra A lps p it z e - ü ll e z-M Frit r eito Dr Garmisch-Partenkirchen str. Zugspitzbahn inlstr. spitz r.m. and watch animals in the forest.20€ ($2. % 08821/753-294) in Garmisch contains three giant skating rinks with stands for 12. tr. 1.En Lo zianen Kurhaus Straussstr.000 spectators. on Sat and Sun). or “high ways”). People come from around the world to roam the mountain paths (called Hohenwege.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 307 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Herbst Alte Kirche Bu rgstr. . gst er te chna ar tin -S Sc ho en str.. str.Chamonix. enjoy nature.2 km 0. ar tin s str. Riffe 2 3 Kla mm str. The ice rinks are open to the public daily (except from the middle of May through June) from 10 a. enf a int Re Ha . t s r platz z t spi et W rt Pa isa e s tr. On the slopes at the edge of town is the Olympia-Skistadion (Olympic Ski Stadium).m.St str. the Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum (Olympic Ice Stadium. Like the ice stadium. str 5 eld r.Kongresshaus .S To Jagdschloss Schachen/ Eckbauer/ Partnachklamm Gorge tr. ru g PARK ch Von-B h i c isa Richard. - rt Ma Bayerische Str. this ski facility opened in 1936 and remains an integral part of winter life in Garmisch.M To Zugspitze Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt Munich Built for the 1936 Winter Olympics. r. p ia Klam tr. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. M H au p t- P h il o Mü winkelst r. Pr rs t ei n str.75) for children 6 to 15. St . is the Jagdschloss Schachen Kr a ig s dw Lu str. Alpine hiking is a major summertime attraction. s trasse fs ho hn Ba tr. alst lent r.688m (5. to noon (also 2–4 p. One hiking destination.) above Garmisch-Partenkirchen and accessible only by foot (the climb is strenuous). r n st Höl r. KUR. om rk Platz a p m Am K u r er s 1 Marien. burgHinden s trasse s o p henw e nch g sse stra ne r. The World Cup Ski Jump takes place here every January 1. 2. with two ski jumps and a slalom course. mst up str.2 mi . wig L ud 4 n So nb ne r. rst ad Lo Z ug r.

The exterior of the lodge resembles a Swiss chalet. past giant boulders and rushing streams.. where you find extraordinary panoramas. and 27€ ($33) for children ages 6 to 15.). The stop is next to an alpine lake and clearly marked. During the same season. 1 p.720 ft. 32€ ($39) for youths 16 and 17. given at 11 a.. you transfer onto a cable car. For more information. A round-trip ticket enables you to ascend one-way and descend the other for the widest range of spectacular views. Ascending the Zugspitze For a spectacular view of the Bavarian and the Tyrolean (Austrian) Alps. Olympiastrasse 27.m. The round-trip fare is 44€ ($55) for adults. You can choose between two different ways to reach the Zugspitze from the center of Garmisch. and 3 p. a high plateau with sweeping views. a cafe and restaurant. but the king insisted on an elaborately fanciful Moorish-style interior. The entire trip takes about 40 minutes. the Gletscherbahn. On Friday. The train travels uphill. Germany’s tallest mountain (2. www. free for children younger than 14. and many alpine trails.m. Bavarian folk music and dancing take place every Saturday night in the Bayernhalle. which departs from the back of Garmisch’s main railway station daily every hour from 8:35 a.m. to 4:30 p. for a four-minute ride uphill to the Zugspitzgipfel (summit). Total travel time to the top is about 55 minutes. both involving a ride on a cog railway and a cable car: ߜ The first way begins with a trip on the Zugspitzbahn (cog railway). Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. Discovering the local nightlife From mid-May through September.960m/9. The only way to see the lodge is by guided tour (in German only). you can go all the way to the summit of the Zugspitze. to the Zugspitzplatte. in July and Aug). A family ticket for two adults and one child costs 100€ ($125).m. the “dream king. ߜ The second way to get to the summit of the Zugspitze is to take the Zugspitzbahn for a shorter trip. Brauhausstrasse 19. from early June to early October.” in 1871.m. From here. contact the Bayerische At the Zugspitzplatte. a gift shop. a hunting lodge built by Ludwig II. 2 p. Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/797-900. to 2:35 p.m. the Garmisch park bandstand plays host to classical concerts Saturday through Thursday. The Eibsee Sielbahn makes runs every half-hour from 8:30 a. The tourist office in GarmischPartenkirchen (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) can supply further details.zugspitze. the cable car carries you to the Zugspitzgipfel. You need about four hours to get there and back..m.m. disembarking 14km (9 miles) southwest of Garmisch at the lower station of the Eibsee Sielbahn (Eibsee Cable Car).m. Check with the local tourist . (5:30 p. these concerts move to the Partenkirchen bandstand.308 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08821/2996).

a valley flanked by 1.800m (5. The twin towns also play host to a Folklore Week in early August and a five-day Richard Strauss Festival in June. Every ten years.000. takes you to Schloss Linderhof . and in reverse. A shuttle bus runs back and forth between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau daily. Most of the carvings are of religious scenes. Actors must be natives of or have lived in the town for at least 20 years. but you also find drinking or hunting scenes. Competition is fierce for sales of local woodcarvings made in hamlets and farmhouses throughout the region. Croatia.500m to 1. Prices start around 11€ ($14) and go up to 5. the next will be in 2010).000-ft. Passionswiese 1 (% 08822/92310). animals. an art form unique to Bavaria. pine. a crowd from around the world converges on Oberammergau to see the Passionspiele (Passion Play).to 6. has the most-sophisticated inventory of woodcarvings crafted from maple.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 309 Oberammergau: Woodcarvers and Passion plays An alpine village located 20km (12 miles) north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Performances take place in the Passionspiel Theater. the following stores are reliable: ߜ Holzschnitzerei Franz Barthels. the composer lived in Garmisch from 1908 until 1949. and parts of Austria. Schnitzlergasse 4 (% 08822/4271).) peaks. If you’re looking for authentic woodcarvings. and folkloric figures.388). Dorfstrasse 27 (% 08822/821). Oberammergau has been famous for its woodcarvers and Hinterglas artists since the 15th century. A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles A scenic drive through the Emmertal. 16-act drama depicting Christ’s journey to the Cross every decade since 1680 (the last was in 2000. ߜ Tony Baur. office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) for details about these programs.110€ ($6. the next one will be held in 2010. If you’re coming by car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Locals have performed the 51⁄2-hour. and linden. Hinterglas (behind glass) painting. take E533 north and turn west onto B23 at Oberau. The cast for this religious epic numbers in the hundreds. is painting done directly on glass. everything from small figures of saints for 54€ ($67) to jumping jacks with movable legs for 36€ ($45). sells a wide range of carvings. Know before you buy that even some of the most expensive “handmade” pieces may have been carved by machine prior to being finished off by hand. Actors first performed the famous Passion play in Oberammergau in 1634 when the town’s citizens took a vow to give thanks for being spared from the plague.

) Getting there If you’re driving from Munich. The park contains several small. the Grotto and other park buildings close. October through March.linderhof. The ornate exterior is actually restrained when compared with the interior.50) for adults. Linderhof is not without charm. which is a riot of neo-rococo flashiness. On the lake. to 4 p. Admission in the summer is 7€ ($8.310 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08822/92030.75) for adults. You can see the palace only by guided tour. with stalagmites and stalactites dividing the cavelike room into three chambers.50) for seniors 65 and older and for students.m. in which he was rowed about the lake. turning west on B23 about 5km (3 miles) toward Ettal. Linderhof is open year-round and makes a wonderful daytrip from Munich or Garmisch-Partenkirchen. and then drive for 13km (8 miles) on the signposted road. take the Munich–Garmisch Autobahn (A95) south. which had artificial waves. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter. Built of artificial rock. The parking fee is 2€ ($2. 5€ ($6. feed your ticket through the electronic turnstile to gain entrance. thanks in large part to the beauty of its natural setting in the Ammerberge range and its formal French gardens. fanciful buildings.m. www. For all its ostentation. including the Grotte (Grotto).. inspired by the famous Blue Grotto at Capri. 6€ ($7. the Grotto contains an artificial lake fed by an artificial waterfall and a stage hung with a backdrop scene of the first act of Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. and crystal chandeliers. dazzling-white château overloaded with statues and decorations derived from many different periods and countries.50). Your ticket has a specific entry time.m. Exploring Schloss Linderhof In 1869. passing the hamlet of Graswang on the way.25) for students and seniors. glittering with gold leaf. The rustic lodge was transformed into a small. A guide will meet your group outside the tours in English are available throughout the day. Ludwig kept two swans and a gilded. the most elaborate of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale palaces. mirrors. swan-shaped boat. to 6 p. Winter admission is 6€ ($7. The original colored-light effects still illuminate the room. When your time arrives. but the castle is open daily from 10 a.m. . Linderhof is an extremely popular tourist attraction. so arrive early or you may have a long wait. A sign at the front of the palace tells you what group is currently being admitted. The palace and grounds are open April through September daily from 9 a. King Ludwig II decided to redesign this former royal hunting lodge to resemble the Petit Trianon at Versailles.

vineyards slope down to crowded marinas. you find the Bodensee. Vineyards and fruit orchards thrive in the region’s mild. On the north (German) shore. sunny climate. and charming old towns bask in the golden sun. Looking south across the lake. the countries that share its 258km (160 miles) of shoreline. In Switzerland and Austria. while towns on the lake bask in an almost Mediterranean balminess.300 ft. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) What is the proper name. one of the great lakes of Europe. you ask: the Bodensee or Lake Constance? Both names are correct. it’s called Lake Constance. The Bodensee is Germany’s largest and Central Europe’s third-largest lake.) Atmospheric old towns such as Freiburg share the forest setting with glamorous resorts like BadenBaden.Chapter 17 The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights In This Chapter ᮣ Enjoying the Bodensee. Germany’s largest lake ᮣ Discovering the island city of Lindau ᮣ Exploring the Black Forest ᮣ Bathing in Baden-Baden ᮣ Wandering through the medieval town of Freiburg S outhwestern Germany is an area rich in scenic splendor. (See “The Bodensee [Lake Constance]” map in this chapter. In Germany. In this corner of the country. and the legendary Black Forest.) is called the Bodensee. Visitors to the Bodensee enjoy the warm climate and stunning scenery. this 74km-long (46-mile) lake in the foothills of the Alps (elevation 395m/1. you . The widest point is almost 14km (9 miles) across.

Lindau. and Hafenstrasse 6. Lindau is a popular tourist destination that feels a bit like an Italian resort. Lindau: Sunny island charmer The historic island-town of Lindau. snow-capped Alps. By train. is open April through October. Check with the tourist office in Lindau or contact Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. A town of pretty. So many historic buildings line its narrow streets that the entire town is a protected landmark. Fierce winds from the mountains occasionally whip up the waters of the Bodensee. Day and overnight tickets for car parks can be purchased from ticket machines. or Old Town. because you won’t be able to drive into the historic center. a lovely island city on the northeastern shore. take the A96 Autobahn and then B31 into Lindau. to 6 p. By car from Munich. Schützingerweg 2. follow B310 and B308 west. and Zurich. Basel. Prague. (See the “Lindau” map in this A profusion of gardens gives the town a quasi-Mediterranean air. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.312 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany see the towering. If you’re driving from Füssen..m. the newer part of Lindau spreads out to the mainland. Konstanz (% 07531/ 3640-398). You even find subtropical vegetation growing in sheltered gardens. Monday through Friday 9 a. Getting to Lindau Lindau is one of the Bodensee’s major transportation hubs. located 179km (111 miles) southwest of Munich at the northeastern corner of the Bodensee. makes a good place to stay. turning south on B12 (Kemptenstrasse). the entire trip takes three Finding information and taking a tour The Lindau tourist information office. Several ferries per day link Konstanz with Lindau. stopping at Meersburg and Mainau.bsb-online. Lindau is on a major rail line. and Switzerland. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. After you cross the causeway. occupies a small island in the lake (accessible by a causeway). From Lindau. Ludwigstrasse 68 (% 08382/260030. across from the train station. and the train station is right in the Altstadt across from the harbor. For information and train schedules.lindau-tourismus. you can travel by boat to towns in Austria and Switzerland and to Konstanz on the western side of the lake. you can get direct connections to Lindau from Munich. flower-bedecked squares and a harborside promenade. but for the most part the lake is placid.m.bahn. park in one of the large car parks outside the Altstadt. was founded in the ninth century. A road bridge and a causeway for walkers and trains connect the town to the mainland. and for hundreds of years the town was a center of trade between Bavaria. www. The Altstadt. Italy. Saturday .

am Main Frankfurt Arbon CZECH C ZECH RE P. GERMANY s e e BE L. S W I T Z E R L A N D Rorschach Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest R ANCE F RANC E Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Staad Bregenz A U S T R I A The Bodensee (Lake Constance) 313 S WI SW ITZ TZ. LU X. REP. A US TRIA AU S TRI A . L UX. BEL . .0 5 mi 5 km B34 0 Weingarten Ravensburg Ferry Üb erl ing er Se Überlingen Markdorf B32 B33 e B31 Radolfzell G E R M A N Y To Munich Airport E43 E54 Zelle rsee Mainau Immenstaad B30 B31 Reichenau Untersee Tettnang Eriskirch B467 Gn B33 ade nse e Meersburg Wangen B12 Konstanz Friedrichshafen B32 D EN M AR K MA RK B o Kressbronn B12 Hamburg d Langenargen Deutsche Alpenstrasse Berlin Romanshorn e n Wasserburg Lindau B308 B308 POLAND N E TH . NET H.

All three buildings share a lakefront garden with sunbathing areas. The group meets in front of the tourist office. % 08382/93410. the cost is 4€ ($5). fitness center. November through March. Larger rooms with small sitting areas are in an older building (a glass-roofed conservatory connects the two). comfortable. % 08382/704-242) provides halfhourly service to all parts of Lindau daily from early morning until 10:40 p.m. The location is an easy walk from the lake and casino. www. Getting around Lindau The charming Altstadt.m.m. The small. The Lindau Stadtbus (city bus. outdoor pool. The décor is modern in both. The Reutemann has large rooms and bathrooms with showers and big tubs. Rates: 86€–92€ ($107–$115) double. Bei der Heidenmauer 11. The rooms are up-to-date and furnished in a functional. You can join a guided walking tour on Monday (in English) or Tuesday and Friday mornings (in German) at 10 a. Rates include continental breakfast. Its harborside kiosk has excursion information and timetables.. Staying in Lindau Lindau is a tourist-oriented resort town. the island part of Lindau. Hotel-Garni Brugger $ Altstadt This welcoming 23-room hotel.m.314 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Sunday 9:30 a. some with lake views. MC. is the best affordable choice in Lindau. The Seegarten has flower-filled balconies and spacious rooms. More luxurious is the adjacent Hotel Bayerischer Hof. to noon and 2 to 5 p. modern style with lots of light. part of the same management. so hotels in all price categories are available. If you want a taxi. See map p. Monday through Friday 9 a. V. Fax: 08382/ 4133. tiled bathrooms have showers (two rooms have tubs and showers). For information on boat trips around the Bodensee. and sauna. located right on the harbor promenade.hotel-garni-brugger.m. to 4 p. 88131 Lindau. is flat and easily walkable. Some open onto a rear balcony. contact BodenseeSchiffsbetriebe (% 08382/2754810). DC. call Taxi-Ring-Zentrale (% 0800-60066666) or Lindauer Funk-Taxi (% 08382/4455). two connected buildings with 64 rooms between them. Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten $$ –$$$$ Altstadt One of the nicest places to stay on the Bodensee is the upscale lakeside Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten. from April through October. AE. located at the end of the causeway. .m.

1 mi 1 mm K l e i n e r S e eb rü ck e 2 Se e 0 0. Stephan 13 Strandbad Eichwald 3 Strandbad Lindenhofbad 1 20 Information i G ER M ANY Frankfurt B o d e n s e e Lighthouse Post office Railway Munich Lindau Lindau 315 . mm Kru elg Ins Pulv rab Da mm g. erg rb Fä Sch ütz Lu Hauptbahnhof z S ro eep n ho eg i 15 me dw ig ing erw s tr se as Brettermark Rüberplatz t 16 na de 17 18 Bu rgga sse Dreierstrasse ertu en Hintere Insel Ludwigstra sse rmw Ba h eg Reichsplatz Ling teg msse Dam gas Pulverturm - Uferweg nilia 9 xim Ma 10 Fi s c her- Barfüsserplatz ga s s e 7 Schrannenplatz . iespl P arad Z e pp e l in fpl at Hamburg Berlin 19 Se e ha f e n Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest ATTRACTIONS Altes Rathaus 10 Diebsturm 7 Löwenmole 19 Mangturm 17 Maria Himmelfahrt 14 Neuer Leuchtturm 20 Peterskirche 8 Römerschanze 18 Spielbank 6 Stadtmuseum 12 Stadtpark 4 St.0 0. Kron ngasse e .1 km Eisen ba ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Bayerischer Hof 15 Hotel-Garni Brugger 5 Hotel Reutemann/ Hotel Seegarten 16 hnda 3 Ch e Rollschuhplatz Heidenm lle s-A lle e Rotkreuz Platz 4 DINING Hoyerberg Schlössle 2 RestaurantWeinstube Frey 9 Zum Sünfzen 11 8 rgeebe e Schn gass Au GROLL f W de ANLAGEN all m OSCAR- 6 Thiersch strasse gstr asse au asse er 5 zigerstr Zwan Auf der Mauer Alter Schulsse Schmiedga platz 13 r Grub e d n I er Kirchplatz msse MarktCra ga 12 platz 14 A L T S T A D T Stiftsplatz Strasse 11 Bindergasse sse stra g.

Hotel Bayerischer Hof 152€–291€ ($190–$364). with a view of the mountains and V. Meals here are a memorable experience. beef stroganoff.bayerischerhof-lindau. You may want to sample the local Meersburger wines as you dine on chicken breast with raspberry sauce. Main courses: 22€–35€ ($27–$44). Open: Daily 11 a.m. Reservations recommended.) % 08382/25295. Restaurant-Weinstube Frey $ Altstadt GERMAN The oldest Stubl (drinking and dining room) on Maximilianstrasse. Rates: Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten 116€–210€ ($145–$262) double. Seepromenade.m. You can dine inside or out. Maximilianstrasse 1. Fresh fish from the Bodensee is a specialty. Hoyerbergstrasse 64. Frey’s has outdoor tables on the pedestrian street and a small second-floor restaurant with a beamed ceiling and pleasantly old-fashioned ambience. Maximilianstrasse 15. 315. Dining in Lindau Hoyerberg Schlössle $$$$ Mainland CONTINENTAL The Hoyerberg Schlössle. Main dishes: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). DC. AE. not required in the cafe. The breakfast buffet is an additional 16€ ($20). You can drive to these hotels and park in the underground garage. % 08382/5278. AE. 88131 Lindau.–2:30 p. 315. and 6–10 p.316 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Children younger than 10 stay free. DC.m. % 08382/9150. or spinach Spätzle (a potato-based pasta) baked with cheese and ham. MC. See map p. V. www. MC.m. Open: Daily 10:30 a. Open: Restaurant Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. AE. Menu offerings vary seasonally but may typically include cream of scampi soup. to pepper steaks. Closed Jan 15–Feb 28. See map p. and 5–11:30 p.m. dependable food at reasonable prices. Fax: 08382/915591. % 08382/5865. local perch stuffed with herbs. take Langenweg and Friedrichshafener Strasse northwest to Hoyerbergstrasse. DC. See map p. Reservations required in the restaurant.m. located on the mainland about a 15-minute drive from the Altstadt. MC. . (From the causeway. 315. has few rivals on the Bodensee.–11 p. See map p. cafe Tues–Sat 2–4:30 p. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20).. at Lindau-Aeschach. trout baked in a potato crust. and roast pork with homemade Spätzle to filet of venison. Fixed-price menus: 62€–79€ ($77–$98). No credit cards. V. Dishes range from schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). The first-floor cafe is more informal. and saddle of venison with flour dumplings and French beans. and baby-sitting can be arranged. Zum Sünfzen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/BAVARIAN This old restaurant at the east end of Maximilianstrasse serves good.m. 315.

(See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. Flanking the harbor entrance is the 19th-century Neuer Leuchtturm (lighthouse) and the Löwenmole.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 317 Exploring Lindau Lindau is best enjoyed by simply taking a couple of hours to stroll around the Altstadt. is the most attractive on the whole of the Bodensee. the Peterskirche (St. you find the Stadtmuseum (Town Museum. this round tower with projecting upper turrets and oriel windows once served as the town jail (hence its name). admission 1. to 5 p. and mechanical pianos. tin and ceramic objects. including barrel organs. has . The interior. A special attraction is the collection of mechanical musical instruments. a pillar with a sculpted lion (the symbol of Bavaria) looking out over the lake.. The museum contains a large collection of furniture (ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau). the church became a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of World War I. completed in 1856. A rectangular building with a flat wooden ceiling and a tall.–5 p.m. houses the centuries-old town library (not open to the general public). the name derives from the laundry. On the east side of Marktplatz stand side-by-side Lutheran and Catholic churches.m.. once used as a council hall. Lindau’s main pedestrian-only thoroughfare. Located just north of Maximilianstrasse. is the city’s most famous landmark.). paintings.m.m. to 5 p. glassware.m. Built around 1370 at the most westerly point of the old town wall. silverware. Saturday from 2 to 5 p.) Located almost directly across from the main train station.D.. erected in 1422 and notable for its grandly painted facade of a princely procession. At night. In 1928. the church was built around A.m. Successive eras saw the additions of other architectural styles.m. The museum is open April through September Tuesday to Friday from 11 a. Rising from the promenade at the edge of the harbor is the 13th-century tower called the Mangturm. Peter’s Church. The tower is not open to the public.50). or “mangle house. Stephan. the Lutheran church on the left. flower-bedecked fountain in the center. St. thousands of lights create a magical atmosphere around the harbor. 1000. and historical toys. Continuing east on Maximilianstrasse and Cramergasse brings you to the Marktplatz (Market Square) with a pretty.– 5 p.m. % 08382/ 944-073). Standing beside the Diebsturm on Schrannenplatz is Lindau’s oldest building. Return to Maximilianstrasse and follow the street eastward to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall).25) for a panoramic vista of the Swiss and Austrian Alps across the water. In a stately. but in the 16th century the building received a Renaissance face-lift. and sculptures.75€/$2. square tower. the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower). the town’s famous harbor.” that once stood beside the tower. 18th-century baroque town house called the Haus zum Cavazzen. The interior walls have late-15th-century frescoes by Hans Holbein the Elder. You can climb up the narrow spiral staircase of the lighthouse (open daily 9:30 a. Admission is 2€ ($2. and Sunday from 11 a.m. orchestral instruments. open daily 9 a. The building’s stepped gables are typical of the 15th-century Gothic style.

and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.” later in this chapter). the Catholic church on the right. something dressy. Römerschanze (% 08283/6830).. take bus no. and blackjack and roulette from 3 p. Admission to the beach is 3€ ($3. The churches generally are open from 8 a. 2€ ($2. Enjoying lakeside activities For as little as 10€ ($13) you can rent a bike (Fahrrad. pronounced farahd) and go cycling along the shores of the Bodensee.50) for children. to 7 p. Continuing east from Marktplatz on Schmiedgasse. Appropriate attire is a cut above casual: Men should wear a jacket and tie. with a grassy lakeside area and three heated swimming pools. is located next to Lindau harbor in the Altstadt. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. The third beach. or take bus no. this beach charges 2.m. west of the causeway. Taking a turn at the tables At Lindau’s glitzy Spielbank (shpeel-bank. The biggest beach is Strandbad Eichwald (% 08283/5539).m. The location is about a halfhour walk east along Uferweg. Admission is 2. you may want to stop at Mainau on your way to or from Freiburg in the Black Forest (see “Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books. to 8 p. to 2 a. Three lakeside beaches (a beach is a Strandbad. on the mainland. 3 to Karmelbuckel. to 5 p.318 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany a barrel-vaulted ceiling and a fairly bare interior. .m.25). Fahrrad-Station-Lindau (% 08382/21261). pronounced strahndbod) are open in summer Monday through Friday from 10:30 a.) If you’re driving through this part of southern Germany. to 1 p.m. you come to the waterside Stadtpark (City Park) with its modern Spielbank (casino). then bus no. and from 2 to 6 p.m.m. To reach it.m.m.m.50€ ($3) for adults. Maria Himmelfahrt (Church of the Ascension).m. Strandbad Lindenhofbad (% 08283/6637).m.m.50€ ($3. The bike-rental office. Lindenhofpark.m. and a passport is required as proof of age. makes for a pleasant daytrip from Lindau. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter.50€ ($2) for children. Chelles Allee 1 (% 08382/27740). in the train station.75) for adults. casino). Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau The island of Mainau. 2 to Anheggerstrasse. 2€ ($2. you can play slot machines from noon to 2 a. is full of baroque decoration and has a frescoed ceiling. a smaller beach popular with families. and Saturday from 9:30 a.m. is the most scenic area for biking. to 7:30 p.50€ ($3) for adults and 1. 1 or no. and women. 4 to Alwind.50) for children. is located in Lindenhof Park on the mainland. famed for its subtropical gardens. Admission is 2. on the mainland.

). Schützingerweg 2. to 8 p. This is the best (and only) way to see Mainau. the largest city on the Bodensee. You can also drive west from Lindau to Meersburg. which includes admission at Mainau. A passionate plant lover. 3. would later develop. 31€ ($25) for family (parents and children up to 15). he laid the foundations for the Arboretum. to dusk. and holidays. open 11 a. which features seasonal specialties such as asparagus in the spring. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. tens of thousands of tulips in the spring. Visiting the island of Mainau The semitropical island of Mainau.90€ ($5) for children. The baroque castle that forms the centerpiece of the island once was a residence of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. provides daily passenger service by boat between Lindau. www.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 319 Getting to Mainau Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. the current owner of this 110-acre botanical wonderland. and roses in the summer fill the gardens. the Rose Garden. several places on the island are open daily for dining or a quick snack.m. not all of them stop at Mainau. chanterelle mushrooms in late summer.m. from 8:30 a.–6 p. citrus and fruit trees. two ferries per hour make the 4.m. the Palm House. so check before boarding. Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden purchased the island as a summer residence. If you’re driving. The island has a Mediterranean luxuriance that invites leisurely strolling.–8 p. the Butterfly House.m. costs 31€ ($39). Mainau. in an arm of the Bodensee known as the Überlingersee. Count Lennart Bernadotte.m. Contact Autofähre Konstanz-Meersburg (% 07531/803666) for information and schedules.) and the Castle Café (open 11 a. Admission is 12€ ($15) for adults. orchids. because cars are restricted on the island. Generally. gardens that his great-grandchild.m. Service is less frequent on Saturdays. hop on the ferry. Sundays.. and Konstanz. on the lake’s north shore. and easily walk through Mainau. winter hours are 9 a.m. where palms and orange trees grow and fragrant flowers bloom year-round. In 1853. From March 24 through October 24. A one-way fare from Lindau to Mainau is 11€ ($14).bsb-online. a roundtrip and catch a car-ferry to Mainau. The island’s gardens are open daily year-round. Palms. Butterflies from throughout the world flit and flutter through the Butterfly House. The island’s culinary high point is the Schwedenschenke (% 07531/303-156. rhododendrons. 11€ ($14) for seniors older than 65. and an exhibition on Lake Constance in the castle. Admission includes the gardens. you can park and leave your car in Meersburg. From April through mid-October. lies 6km (4 miles) north of Konstanz. hours are 7 a. to 11 p..–10 p. Casual dining options include the Butterfly Bistro (open 10 a. azaleas.m.) .2km (21⁄2-mile) crossing (one per hour through the night) to Konstanz.m. and the Orangery.m.m. and game dishes in the fall.

however. The forest’s proximity to France and Switzerland has influenced the cooking you find in many Black Forest restaurants. . The name “Black Forest” is a translation of the Latin Silva Nigra. From cake to sausage: Black Forest treats Maybe you’ve heard of that famous thick. about 145km (90 miles) long and 40km (25 miles) wide. which dominates the southwestern corner of Germany. If you want to sample other regional specialties. which serves as a boundary with Switzerland to the south and France to the west. amid nature. the mountainous.) For the Germans themselves. Give yourself at least two hours to explore and enjoy the island. a spa resort with thermal waters and an elegant casino. which runs almost the entire length of the come to two cities in particular: Baden-Baden. call % 07531/3030 or visit www. Visitors with limited time generally skip the area’s cure and sports aspects and focus instead on the scenic pleasures of the Schwarzwald. The famous cake is one of the specialties of a region that’s something of a culinary crossroads. and the medieval university town of Freiburg. Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart). runs parallel to the Rhine. Why did they call it that? Because from a distance the dark green pine and fir trees look black. hiking trails. the name given to the forest by Romans some 2. fairy tales. look for Zwetchgentorte (plum pastry). and cuckoo clocks. One of the most popular auto trips is from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt on the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse (Black Forest High Road. legend-filled forest is a favorite place to spend holidays outdoors.mainau. meat and fowl dishes with creamy sauces. Villages with half-timbered buildings. and pretty spots where stressedout city dwellers take die Kur (the cure) at health resorts fill the pineand spruce-filled forest.320 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For more information. The Black Forest. The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Travelers to the Schwarzwald (schvahrtz-vald). chocolatey cake flavored with cherry preserves and called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cherry Cake). long associated with legends. by train. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) adjoins the forest to the east. Having a car opens up more of the countryside. the two towns I recommend as overnights.000 years ago. Schwarzwald Schinken (Black Forest smoked ham). or Black Forest. and wild game such as venison and boar. Most restaurants make their own Hauswurst (sausage) and guard the recipe. You can explore the Black Forest in many ways. You can easily reach Baden-Baden and Freiburg. B500). (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter.

Peter Schwenningen St.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 321 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Durmersheim 0 10 mi Haguenau M er Brumath Weyersheim 36 A4 Canal de la Marne au Rhin Willgottheim Marlenheim Rheinau 500 Rh ine Pfaffenhoffen N 0 10 km Bouxwiller Mountain Malsch To Pforzheim Kuppenheim Gaggenau BadenBaden 462 294 Strasbourg Molsheim A840 A35 3 od To Calw A5 Bühl Achern Raumündzach Oberkirch 28 Barr Neuried 36 Offenburg FRANCE in 83 Freudenstadt Rhine Rh Gengenbach Ettenheim 3 500 462 du Selestat Rh ône I ll au Alpirsbach Zell am Harmersbach Wolfach Waldmössingen nal 468 Ca Elsenheim Muntzenheim Herbolzheim Kenzingen 294 33 Hornberg 462 Dunningen Zimmern Triberg A5 Waldkirch Kandel Triberger Wasserfälle Furtwangen A81 Freiburg im Breisgau Hirtzfelden Bad Krozingen Staufen Badenweiler 3 St. Märgen 500 A864 31 Donaueschingen Titisee Hüfingen Löffingen Schauinsland Hinterzarten Feldberg Bernau Lenzkirch Blumberg Bonndorf 314 Belchen Todtnau 317 Schluchsee 500 Häusern Kandern A5 Zell im Wiesental Hornberg A98 Hamburg Berlin A35 WaldshutTiengen E GERMANY Frankfurt am Main C Lörrach Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Rh Pratteln SWITZERLAND FR Basel Döttingen in e AN .

and Napoleon III gave the town a glamorous new aristocratic cachet. If you’re not into a health regimen or interested in gambling. open Mon–Sat 9 a. Finding information The tourist information office in the Trinkhalle. from Frankfurt. The horseracing season at nearby Iffezheim. Baden-Baden attracts many sports and outdoor enthusiasts. The drive south from Frankfurt takes about two hours. takes place in August. and the A8 Autobahn runs east–west. you take bus no. The Bahnhof (railway station) is at Baden-Oos. It has a complete schedule of events and information on town and regional attractions. about four hours. to 5 p. play tennis. Trip time from Munich is about four hours. from Munich. and Dostoevsky — also helped to make Baden-Baden the most elegant and sophisticated playground in Germany. always available in front of the station.m. about 5km (3 miles) north of town.m. one of the summer sporting events in Europe. The thermal springs bubbling up from beneath the town have been healing aches and pains for more than 2. To get into the center of town.m. The town has the most up-to-date spa facilities in Germany. In the 19th century. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. . about three hours. For those with a car. golf. you may find Baden-Baden a bit boring-boring. Baden-Baden still evokes that aura of 19th-century privilege.) Getting to Baden-Baden You can easily reach Baden-Baden by train from anywhere in Germany. Sun 9 a.baden-baden. Both offices offer a free hotelbooking service.322 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town Baden-Baden is one of the world’s most famous spa resorts. Located 174km (108 miles) south of Frankfurt in the northern portion of the Black Forest.–1 p.000 years. and ride horses. and Sunday 2 to 5 p. For train information. bahn. Even the Roman emperor Caracalla traveled to this part of the Black Forest to get some relief from his arthritis. you can easily access a second tourist office outside the center. is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. connecting Baden-Baden to same phone.m. on Schwarzwaldstrasse 52 (the B500 road into town.m. The composition of the slightly radioactive mineral water is almost the same today as when the Romans built the first bath complexes here in the third century. the A5 Autobahn between Basel and Frankfurt runs north–south through the entire region.m). (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter.–6 p. If you’re driving into town. European nobility and clients such as Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm I rediscovered Baden-Baden’s waters. The personalities of the day — artists like Berlioz. Brahms. Kaiser Allee 3 (% 07221/ www. and people still flock here to soak and be healed of various ailments and to try their luck in the famous casino.. 201 or a taxi.m. who come to hike.

ass tr. Hindenburgplatz e rs tr. str n i rS e Ste h ac Str 4 rnsb a sse tra Ge e Jesuitensse rass nst platz hie p o S 7 . Hir s Schloßs e trass r lmstr Wilhe . t r.D ür e ras sse se t -S . lstr LeopoldsInse platz ßs ch str 5 Marktplatz 2 Sc h l o Sol W er d er s tr a sse We rd ras erst se 10 Goetheplatz zs t r. strasse 12 ichstras se Sephanie- Lichtentaler Allee ss e Oosbach Kais er- W il h elm - e LudwigWilhelmPlatz 14 1515 St ra r Fried lerst rass Schil 16 Gausplatz Bertholdstrasse Bertholdplatz e Frem r rgst rsbe asse Hamburg Berlin nel i Information 0.2 km Mi cha elstu n Lic ta en ht 0 0 GER M AN Y Frankfurt rA ll e e BadenBaden ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel am Markt 5 Der Kleine Prinz 15 Hotel Belle Epoque 16 DINING Der Kleine Prinz 15 Münchner Löwenbräu 4 Park-Restaurant 14 Peter’s Gute Backstube 7 Stahlbad 13 ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss 1 Caracalla-Therme 2 Friedrichsbad 3 Kunsthalle 11 Kurgarten 8 Kurhaus 10 Lichtentaler Allee 12 Spielbank 9 Trinkhalle 6 Ha Munich rd äc ke rs Mic haelstunnel e Lang Vin cen tist rass e ns is e Lu lee ral ise Ka e Sch iben sse stra V in c rasse tist en 9 8 R e t tigstras se Kr e u asse Merkurstr sse stra Eich 13 Hardstra s s e Lic 11 sse tra hte nta ler Str ass e Ludwig-Wilh e l m- S t ra sse le .2 mi 0. . r A .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 323 1 Baden-Baden Sch ütze Sc ger sb os el hl nn Tu Festspielhaus La ng asse nstr We tz eS Leop oldst r tra asse t els Ka p rs t ra ine uz zin Gö tt ss e Ka pu eng . 6 m sstrass e i 3 e .

go on to stuffed rabbit with mushrooms and homemade noodles. See map p. modest. Dining in Baden-Baden Der Kleine Prinz $$$ FRENCH/REGIONAL The restaurant in the hotel Der Kleine Prinz (“The Little Prince”) is one of the finest in the entire region. Lichtentaler Strasse 36. family-run hostelry you can still find all over Germany. See map p. move on to duck-liver parfait with salad. Marktplatz 18. 201. there’s a little cafe in front. 323. the rooms are comfortable (not all have private bathrooms). V.hotel-am-markt-baden. which runs at ten-minute intervals. AE. Münchner Löwenbräu $ –$$ GERMAN/BAVARIAN This restaurant serves simple. MC. V. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. followed by a fish soup with dumplings. and finish with fresh strawberries and homemade ice cream. Although there is nothing grand or glamorous about it. Regional . and 7–10 p. Everything is homemade from the best and freshest local ingredients. Try one of the tasting menus.50). DC. Tasting menus: 57€–75€ ($71–$94). and the location on Marktplatz is quiet and convenient. affordable. Hotel am Markt $ Clean. and well-prepared food in two settings: on a romantic terrace beneath linden trees or in an indoor dining room with curved glass walls. this 27-room hotel epitomizes the kind of small. Bus: Rates: 58€–62€ ($72–$77) double with toilet only. Rates include continental breakfast. Main courses: 17€–29€ ($21–$36). You can begin with assorted appetizers. and inexpensive. Bus no. A one-way fare is 2€ ($2.324 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting around Baden-Baden After you arrive in Baden-Baden. AE. and menu offerings change daily. Fax: 07221/ 27-04-44. MC. Many kinds of German sausage are on the menu with Bavarian specialties and a wide selection of cheeses. Staying in Baden-Baden See also Chapter 22 for descriptions of the outstanding Der Kleine Prinz ($$$–$$$$) and Hotel Belle Epoque ($$$–$$$$). connects the railway station to most of the sites in town. 76530 Baden-Baden.m. Bus: 201. 74€–80€ ($92–$100) double with bathroom. www.m. you can walk everywhere. purchase tickets from the driver or from ticket machines at bus stops. and a meal in the intimate dining room served by the highly polished but friendly staff is a memorable experience. % 07221/3464. 323 In the hotel Der Kleine Prinz. % 07221/27-04-0.

DC. AE.m.50) is very good. See map p.m.m. to midnight. evoke an earlier era. although the atmosphere is like a fast-food restaurant. .m. along with seafood and regional Rhine Valley foods. Main courses: 6. try the lemon-grass mousse. Main courses: 32€–42€ ($40–$52). Pete’s can’t be beat for cheap. or a lunchtime sandwich. AE. Bus: 201. quickly served food. In Brenner’s Park Hotel. I also recommend stopping for a slice of afternoon Kuchen (cake). Reservations required. Sat 6:30 a.–7 p. Main courses: 15€–30€ ($19–$37). Augustaplatz 2.. Park-Restaurant $$$$ INTERNATIONAL/RHINELAND This fancy.. % 07221/392-817. try the apple fritters. 323. 323. Exploring Baden-Baden When it comes to tourist destinations. % 07221/24569. Specialties include sautéed gooseliver. Bus: 201.m. No credit cards. DC. high-priced restaurant in the glamorous Brenner’s Park Hotel is one of the renowned hotel dining rooms of Europe and received a Michelin star in 2006. warm gooseliver with Calvados sauce. Open: Daily 7–9:30 p.–7 p. The emphasis is on French dishes. and lobster salad. with major museums and important historic sights that you must see. 323. MC. copper vessels.) The pace is relaxed. fresh fish. The restaurant also has a popular beer garden.75). For dessert. Schillerstrasse 4.m. antique pewter plates.75).25–$8.m. Reservations required. See map p. Bus: 201. See map p. DC. For dessert. sandwiches: 3€ ($3. Main courses: Breakfast 5€–7€ ($6. The atmosphere and décor. Gernsbacher Strasse 9 (in the Altstadt). the coffee (all you can drink for 2€/$ 2. Baden-Baden isn’t a demanding town.–6 p.m. Open: Daily 10 a.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 325 devotees order pork knuckles fresh from the grill. Peter’s Gute Backstube $ PIZZA/LIGHT MEALS Restaurants in Baden-Baden tend to be pricey.50€–18€ ($8–$22). V. mugs. Duck in here for a breakfast of eggs and ham. and engravings. and grilled lobster and fish. Sophienstrasse 10–12. a slice of pizza.m. Open: Mon–Fri 6:30 a. MC. Sun 8 a. Specialties include pepper steak and seasonal game dishes. Bus: 201. Stahlbad $$$ –$$$$ CONTINENTAL/ALSATIAN In the center of town. % 07221/9000. including prints. and 6–10 p. See map p. V. % 07221/22311. this restaurant with a garden terrace is a tranquil and charming place to dine. so it’s good to know about this inexpensive cafe on busy Leopoldsplatz. roast saddle of venison or lamb. Open: Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. V.m. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter. AE. 323.

The site has remained the hub of Baden-Baden’s social scene ever since. Men must wear jackets and ties. poker. to 2 a. every 30 minutes. the Caracalla Baths. If you don’t want to gamble.m. contain spa facilities. to noon). and other games.” You can see for yourself by visiting the famous BadenBaden Spielbank (casino). used for receptions and galas. Kaiserallee 1 (% 07221/21060). (until 3 a. English commentary is available on a headset.) This casino is definitely not the kind of glitzy. You find slot machines.m. making stops at the Kurhaus. Arrange in advance for tours in English.m. the Kurhaus was turned into a “Conversation House. the building was a “Promenade House. blackjack. To enter the casino.25). At the north end of the promenade are the formally landscaped grounds of the Kurgarten and the neoclassical Kurhaus. The City-Bahn (% 07221/991-998. classy evening wear.m. the glamorous German film star. and ornamental trees set along the bank of the narrow Oosbach River (called the Oos.326 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and the streets are geared toward pleasurable strolls and upscale shopping. “The most beautiful casino in the whole world is in Baden-Baden — and I have seen them all. baccarat. Maximum bets are 10. as you may think. concert shell. The casino is open for gambling daily from 2 p.50€ ($3. Admission is 3€ ($3. Originally. a very recent addition. The train runs daily from 9:30 a. women. In the 1820s. in operation for more than 200 years. Guests can play French and American roulette. to about 5 p. and noon (Oct–Mar 10 a. once remarked. one of the town’s most important buildings.500). slotmachine-haven you find in Las Vegas. The Kurhaus does not.000€ ($12. blackjack. you must possess a valid passport and be at least 21 years old. the right wing of the building is Baden-Baden’s casino (see the next paragraph).. I recommend that you visit one of the bath complexes (see “Bathing in Baden-Baden” later in this chapter) and then spend a couple of hours wandering through the Altstadt. The tour costs 4€ ($5). an elegant park promenade lined with rhododendrons. (The Russian writer Dostoevsky wrote The Gambler based on his disastrous experience at the tables here. poker. roses. . www. and bingo machines. which also contain roulette.” a place for more formal gatherings and events. azaleas. you can take a guided tour of the historic gaming rooms daily. Marlene Dietrich. The various casino rooms were designed in the style of an elegant French château. and gas lights lit and extinguished by hand every day. Germany’s oldest casino. and the left wing houses a large. in the vaulted cellars of the Kurhaus in attractive new rooms. between 9:30 a.citybahn. pronounced ohs). lavish restaurant with a terrace overlooking the gardens with their shop-lined colonnades.m.m.25) for adults and 2. Fri–Sat). Lichtentaler Allee. Minimum bets are 5€ ($6.” where the rich and prominent came to see and be seen. The time-honored center of activity is Lichtentaler Allee.75).m.10) for children 5 to is a sightseeing train that makes stops at all of Baden-Baden’s major attractions. and other spots. Tickets cost 5€ ($6. informal.

to 10 p. The two buildings are open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a. The baths also have a sauna area. Admission is free. and whirlpools.m. Kaiserallee 3 (% 07221/275-200).m. now is used as the main tourist office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Baden-Baden). a ruined castle originally called Hochbaden (High Baden). a large hall built in the 1840s. and three freshwater baths ranging from warm to 60°F (15°C). After experiencing the Friedrichsbad. sits adjacent to the Kunsthalle and houses an impressive collection of modern paintings and sculptures (German expressionists. massages. (last admission is two hours before closing). rich in sodium chloride. dates back to 1877 and follows an ancient Roman-Irish bath method. Bathers usually begin in cooler pools.m. From the 11th to the 15th centuries. Bathing in Baden-Baden Getting into hot water is what Baden-Baden is all about. Admission is 5€ ($6. The Altes Schloss (Old Palace). bubbles up from artesian wells at a temperature of about 160°F (70°C). Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-920). American abstract expressionists. The building. Friedrichsbad. where guests once sipped the salty.25) for adults and 4€ ($5) for students.” Admission is 21€ ($26) for three hours without massage. The complete bath program. You must wear bathing suits in the pools. Note: Clothes may not be worn in the Friedrichsbad. At the CaracallaTherme (Caracalla Baths). slightly radioactive waters of Baden-Baden. The Staatliche Kunsthalle (State Art Gallery). showcases visiting contemporary art exhibits. late works by Picasso) bequeathed by Baden-Baden collector Frieder Burda. completed in 1909.m. involves a shower. The slightly radioactive water. working up to the warm water. The baths are open daily from 8 a. which takes about three hours. you also find the Trinkhalle (Pump Room). is located on a hillside above town. . surrounded by an open walkway and decorated with frescoes depicting Black Forest legends.m. but the scene is au naturel in the saunas. you decide on your own bath regimen. Medicinal treatment includes mud baths. 29€ ($36) with soap-brush massage (31⁄2 hours). and women and men share the pools.).Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 327 In the Kurhaus gardens. thermal steam baths. Lichtentaler Allee 8a (% 07221/300-763). to 10 p. you’d better understand what Mark Twain meant when he said.m. Museum Frieder Burda. Hochbaden was the seat of the margraves of Baden. followed by a 30-minute period of rest and relaxation. (Wed until 8 p. The facility has a bar and a cafeteria.m. The baths are open daily from 9 a. “Here at Baden-Baden’s Friedrichsbad you lose track of time in 10 minutes and track of the world in 20. a brush massage. two saunas. Admission is 12€ ($15) for two hours. You get a nice view of the town and the Black Forest from this fortresslike structure. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-940). to 6 p. a new building designed by Richard Meier and opened in 2005.

candies. now part of the German state of Baden-Württemberg but once part of the Roman Empire. and cottons during warmer months. the days can get very hot. plus many varieties of bottled honey. where the inventory includes luggage. Cuckoo clocks. lined with some of the most expensive boutiques in Germany. Another shop. Lichtentaler Strasse 21 (% 07221/24495). focusing on designers Giorgio Armani and Renee Lazard. operas. opened in 1998. is created by one of Germany’s most emulated designers. are part of a flower-flanked pedestrian zone. Although surrounded by alpine scenery. cooling things down. carries women’s designs in loden-colored wool during autumn and winter. is a bit more international. Sophienstrasse 26 (% 07221/23955).and honey-based products such as candles. is a historical region stretching from the Rhine to the Black Forest. and offers Austrian and Bavarian silks. Only 111km (69 miles) southwest of Baden-Baden. wallets. Freiburg is the largest city in the Schwarzwald and considered to be its capital. Leather goods by Gold Pfiel and other manufacturers are sold at Inka. Herrenkommode. Schwarzwald Bienen-Honig-Haus. www. and wine. Sophienstrasse 16 (% 07221/29292). Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books With a population of about 200.festspielhaus. The Altstadt’s splashing fountains and puppets. Lichtentalerstrasse 13 (% 07221/31090). Sophienstrasse 18 (% 07221/390-448). Beim Alten Bahnhof 2 (% 07221/301-3101. and ballets throughout the year. The town is called Freiburg im (in) Breisgau to distinguish it from other German and Swiss Freiburgs. Discovering the performing arts in Baden-Baden Baden-Baden’s 2. schnapps. Langestrasse 38 (% 07221/31453). Münchner Moden.000 students). Breisgau. and other locally produced items can be found at Boulevard.000 residents (and an additional 30.. carries beeswax.328 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Baden-Baden Sophienstrasse and Gernsbacher Strasse. Freiburg enjoys the benefits of warm air currents that come up from the Mediterranean through Burgundy. fast-flowing streams called Bächle (little brooks) that run alongside the streets in stone-lined channels are ancient cooling systems. The best men’s store. In the summer. The hall presents classical music concerts. The women’s wear available at Escada Boutique. linens. but a cool mountain breeze called the Höllentaler flows down into the town like clockwork twice every night between 7 and 7:30 and 9 and 9:30 p. This is where you buy those elegant duds required to enter the casino. this picturesque city with its medieval Altstadt nestles in a plain below high mountain peaks. Freiburg bursts with . cosmetics.500-seat Festspielhaus (Festival Hall). The building is the second-largest opera and concert hall in Europe. and handbags.

And winegrowing always requires celebrations. Herrens trasse Bert .1 mi trass ma rk e Colombistr asse - Meria nstr a ss e Eise nba hnst Ga tte ckr ing se ph e Ro olds trass Ka ise r- Un s r s s s it ä t e Sedan - UNIVERSITÄT ivetra A L T S T A D T Gr ü Belfortstra sse Wi Ra m Martinstor pa v iktstr.1 km 0. Wine? Yes. on the last weekend in June. a four-day public wine-tasting festival takes place in the Münsterplatz. In Freiburg. surrounding the city are 1. the smell of new wine fills the narrow streets even as snow is already falling on those nearby summits. Werderring Ma r i e n . Hauptbahnhof stras Jak Bu obStrarckha sse rdt- Bis Ka strarlsse Rosa Friedrich ring se Leo pold STADTGARTEN ring Tu lhe lms tra sse l . fd er Zin ne n Scho ferstr . Mo zart st COLOMBIPARK Au i r.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 329 Freiburg Kath strasarinense Heb stras else Meria nstr. Sc hu 2 3 Münsterplatz 4 6 Moltke ste 5 rs t r. sse tra ns e t r Ga Schreibe rstrasse Dr eis am Wallstrasse neggrin eiffe g Gr torring Schwaben Fa ule rst t st r a ss ALLEEe GARTEN r Strasse Ad e l hauserstr . Hab stras sburgerse alle Fried richs Rheinstr e asse 0 0 0. more than you find near any other city in Germany. the square outside Freiburg’s magnificent Gothic cathedral. Joseph- rasse ras se Less ings tras se Kr on en str se as Erbprinzenstr.s tr . 7 11 platz 9 9 K SCHLOSSBERG Schwabentor In se 10 Augustinerweg Kartäuserstrasse Kaiser- Luisenst t r a ss Dreisams e Leo-Woh Strasse lebInformation Post office Railway Schillerstrasse ACCOMMODATIONS Rappen 3 Zum Roten Bären 9 DINING Oberkirchs Weinstuben 2 Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede 10 Zum Roten Bären 9 ATTRACTIONS Augustinermuseum 8 Erzbischöflisches Palais 5 Historisches Kaufhaus 6 Münster 4 Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Wentzingerhaus) 7 Neues Rathaus 1 Schlossberg 11 Hamburg Berlin GE R M AN Y Frankfurt Munich Freiburg springtime blooms while snow still covers the surrounding peaks. at g a h a u ssse Rathausplatz Jo - Str as se rass e u c h- i R r mstr1 Sch iffs tr. and in autumn. Holzm ark t on Gerberau Mün gass zSalz nwal e s t ra de r s t r ss e . 8 Augustiner- S ch los sb erg rin g strasse Platz der Alten Ber Synagoge toldstrasse str. str.600 acres of vineyards.

m.m. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. where you find all the major attractions. Rooms are generally on the small side and simply but comfortably furnished. to 7 p.. Plus-Punkt.m. Getting around Freiburg The Altstadt.. The large student presence adds a lively.m. to 6 p.) Getting to Freiburg Frequent trains connect Freiburg to Baden-Baden and other cities throughout Germany and Europe.m.m. to 2:30 p. www. and sells passes.m. with bonfires and parades. The train trip from Frankfurt takes about two hours. Freiburg’s medieval charm has been preserved. from Hamburg. is open June through September. Salzstrasse 3 (% 0761/451-1500) in the Altstadt. the A5 Autobahn runs north–south through the Black Forest.m. the city plays host to the two-week-long Zeltmusik Festival (Tent Music Festival). (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. to 2 p. Rotteckring 14 (% 0761/388-1880.75).de. has schedules and information.330 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Festivals are a year-round part of life in Freiburg..50). including a bombing in error by the German Luftwaffe. about eight hours. October through May. Monday through Friday 10 a. freiburg. If you’re driving from the Bodensee (Lake Constance).m. Monday to Friday 10 a.m. Although the town was heavily damaged during World War to 5:30 p. The May Frühlingsmess (Spring Fair) and October Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair) both last ten days. Finding information The tourist information office. For train information. Wandering through its ancient streets is a pleasure at any time of year. take B31 west. Staying in Freiburg Rappen $ –$$ Altstadt The best rooms in this charming. RVF (% 0761/207-280) operates the city’s bus and tram system. For those coming by car. to noon. providing access to Freiburg.m.m. to noon. Saturday 10 a. to 8 p. The .m. and Saturday from 8 a. If you’re traveling in the Black Forest. low-key. Freiburg makes for an atmospheric overnight stay. a day ticket costs 4..m. 20-room inn have smack-dab views of Freiburg’s mighty cathedral. And in June.60€ ($5. youthful edge to the old city. Sunday 10 a. A oneway fare costs 2€ ($2. Their pre-Lenten carnival called Fasnet is one of the best in Germany. is easily walkable.bahn. The office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Weinkost is a long wine-tasting event in midAugust. Sunday 10 a. with performances in giant outdoor tents. Saturday 10 a. and exploring the sights in the surrounding Schwarzwald is easy and fun. located right outside.

Closed Jan. AE. The tavern sits on a small square flanked by a . pork filets in morel cream sauce). See map p. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt Zum Roten Bären. or 5. See map p. 79098 Freiburg. % 0761/202-6868. “Dining in Freiburg”). V. pea. poultry. All trams stop just behind the hotel. Main courses: 14€–25€ ($17–$31). www. oldfashioned food: tasty soups (bean. MC. those in the modern wing have little balconies overlooking leafy gardens and red-tiled rooftops. 329. 329. and 6:30–9:15 p. AE. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2 Reservations recommended. with a pretty painted facade and a list of innkeepers that goes back to the 14th century.hoteloberkirchs. Münsterplatz 22. V. provides good regional cooking and comfortable rooms. Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede $ –$$ Altstadt REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL For outdoor summer dining. Oberlinden 12. DC. % 0761/387-870. You can dine in the Weinstube (wine tavern) with its ceiling-high ceramic stove or at a table on the square. Standing just outside the hotel is one of Freiburg’s medieval gateways.roterbaeren. 4. Rates include buffet breakfast. www.” is the oldest inn in Germany. Münsterplatz 13.m. 329. Rates: 99€–110€ ($124–$137) double. including continental breakfast. 79098 Freiburg. site of a big weekday outdoor market. Dining in Freiburg Oberkirchs Weinstuben $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This historic wine tavern on Freiburg’s busy Münsterplatz. AE.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 331 units with private bathrooms have showers. This wonderfully atmospheric and unpretentious inn has only 25 rooms and one of the best restaurants in Freiburg for traditional Black Forest fare and regional wines from the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards (see the next section. which means “At the Red Bear. 25 rooms all have private bathrooms or showers. % 0761/31353. This place serves hearty portions of and seasonal dishes like pheasant. Fax: 0761/382-252. or vegetable). MC. 79098 Freiburg. Rooms in the older section have more charm.hotelrappen. meat dishes (veal schnitzel. Fixed-price menus: 18€–21€ ($22–$26). Doubles range from 126€ to 147€ ($157–$184). www. You find plenty of activity right outside the hotel on Mü and the surrounding neighborhood is wonderfully picturesque.m. Above the Weinstube. V. Tram: 1. See map p. Rates include breakfast. Rates: 145€ ($181) double. DC. this Weinstube is the most picturesque and romantic spot in Freiburg. or Cathedral Square. MC.

MC. and 6:30–11:30 p. is a light. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). This part of town is medieval Freiburg at its most appealing. Tram: 1.m. The chef’s daily recommendation may be cream of tomato soup. Zwiebelschmelze is a spinach-and-vegetable-filled ravioli covered with sautéed onions. Fixed-price menus: 35€ ($44). 43€ ($54). the earliest. V. an area bounded by the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) on the west side of the inner city. grown on the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards. A young Rivaner wine. Gothic elements had been incorporated into the design. This place is a good one for trying Zwiebel (onion) dishes. % 0761/387-870.m. but by the time the structure was completed in 1620.m.m. is one of the most beautiful in Germany.332 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rushing Bächle (little brook) and horse-chestnut trees. The menu presents a full array of wonderfully prepared dishes using local ingredients. to midnight. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 3 p. Gargoyles peer down from the tower’s roof. The building is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. % 0761/ 202-790. % 0761/35037. DC. The cathedral contains some superb stained-glass windows. supposedly a sign of the architect’s contempt for the city fathers. one of them with its backside turned toward the archbishop’s house across the square. to 6 p. cooked ham. a specialty of the region. dating from the 13th century. Open: Daily noon to midnight.) All visitors eventually congregate in the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square). (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. Tram: 1. one of Germany’s masterpieces of Gothic architecture.m. or 6). Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL The “Red Bear” has one of the best kitchens in Freiburg and one of the most authentically atmospheric dining rooms. 329. The good food arrives in extremely large portions. 329. available in May and June. are in the south chancel. MC. MapInsel 1. See map p. . Its West Tower. a magnificent openwork spire atop an open octagonal belfry. where you can sample seasonal dishes.m. AE. site of Freiburg’s rose-colored Münster (Cathedral. V. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). A simpler Vesperkarte (late-evening menu) is available from 10 p. See map p. a salad with smoked lox. or tagliatelle with shrimps. fruity accompaniment. Oberlinden 12 (just inside the Schwabentor). 5. and Hollandaise sauce. The cathedral was begun in 1200 in the Romanesque style. Admission to the cathedral is free. and Sunday 1 to 6 p. and a wooded hill called the Schlossberg on the east. Tram: 4. the Dreisam river on the south. such as Spargel (white asparagus). The Spargelpfannkuchen is asparagus served with a special pancake. Exploring Freiburg Most of what you want to see is in the Altstadt. Give yourself at least two hours to stroll and poke around. In the hotel Zum Roten Bären.

dates from around 1200 and stands on the southeast edge of the Altstadt. if you step in a Bächle. to 5 p. Freiburg has many lovely old fountains and a unique system of streams called Bächle (little brooks) that date back to the 12th century. The brooks channel water from the Dreisam River through the old university town. when Freiburg was a walled city. is still used as the town’s official reception hall. East of the university you find the Martinstor (St. The mid-18th-century Erzbischöflisches Palais (Archbishop’s Palace) has a pale-yellow facade and an ornate wrought-iron balcony. you will marry a person from Freiburg. with narrow cobblestone streets and restored houses once used by fishermen and tanneries. pointed-roof watchtowers and a 16thcentury gallery decorated with the statues of four Habsburg emperors..m. November through March. On the west side of the square is Freiburg’s Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). you can climb to the top of the Münster’s famous West Tower.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 333 The Bächle of Freiburg To help the town stay cool in the hot summer sun. the city’s patron saint.m. You can see the Bächle running alongside many Altstadt streets. the chief attraction in the Insel . The third building to the left of the Historisches Kaufhaus is the baroque Wentzingerhaus.m. called Bächle. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. A trio of historic buildings stands along the south side of Münsterplatz. across from the cathedral.m. another busy square just west of the cathedral. George. the tower is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.. According to local folklore. The oxblood-colored Historisches Kaufhaus (Historical Department Store). Sunday from 1 to 5 p. Paintings on the tower include one of St. to 5 p. surround it. The Schwabentor (Swabian Gate). They were first devised to keep the city clean and to help fight fires.m. The Insel is the most picturesque quarter in Freiburg. Martin’s Gate). Augustinerplatz (% 0761/201-2531). A 14th-century Augustinian monastery with a yellow baroque front houses the Augustinermuseum (Augustinian Friars Museum). a Gothic customs and financial administration center with protruding. closed Monday. For a wonderful view of Freiburg and the distant mountains. admission is 2€ ($2. built in 1761 for a local painter and sculptor and now home to the Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Town History Museum. one of two surviving gates from the Middle Ages. The neighborhood around the Schwabentor is called the Insel (Island) because rushing streams. comprised of two highly decorated 16th-century merchants’ houses connected by an arcade. near the Schlossberg. From April through October.50). % 0761/201-2515). Chestnut trees and a fountain add to the charm of Rathausplatz. the other city gate..

A new.000 years. to 5 p. tile roofs in small villages.m. The cable car operates daily from 9 a. The cable car operates June through September from 10 a. and the vast Rhine plain to the west. to 5 p. a famous mile-high peak.m.m. to 7 p. pick up B317 west to Utzenfeld and follow the narrow road northwest to the Belchen. Driving through the Upper Black Forest From Freiburg. to 6 p. you pass some of the forest’s highest peaks and two of its most beautiful lakes. the Feldbergbahn (% 07655/8019). From the parking lot. the cable car operates daily from 9:30 a.m. From the Schwabentor. Continue on B317 east and turn south on B500 to Schluchsee. head south on Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse to Günterstal and follow the narrow. green hillside pastures.m.) From Todtnau. 4€ ($5) for children. you can see the highest peaks of the Alps to the south. a hill that provides good views of the cathedral.m. 4.750-ft. where another enclosed gondola.6km-long (1-mile) footpath to an impressive series of waterfalls. The round-trip takes about an hour. From the Belchen.. Admission is 2€ ($2. takes you to the peak for one of the most spectacular views in the Schwarzwald.50€ ($5.450m (4.m. Along the way. You can also ascend the Schlossberg by cable car (% 0761/39855) from the Stadtgarten (City Gardens). you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Black Forest and be back in time for dinner. Belchenstrasse 13 (% 07673/888-280). The roundtrip fare is 3€ ($3. takes visitors to the 1.m. Give yourself about 90 minutes for the gondola ride and a stroll on the summit. . the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. The roundtrip costs 6€ ($7. you can return to Freiburg by heading west along B31. backtrack to Utzenfeld and follow B317 east to Feldberg.334 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Quarter. October through January from 11:30 a. a nearby peak. one of the loveliest of the Black Forest lakes. enclosed gondola.50) for children. a pathway climbs up the Schlossberg. From Titisee. Inside you find a collection of religious art spanning more than 1. the Belchen Seilbahn. and on a clear day. to 4:30 p. (You need about an hour to get to the falls and back. From Schluchsee. From the grassy summit you can see the Feldberg and other nearby mountains.40€ ($8) for adults.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. twisting road to Schauinsland.75). you can climb 91 steps to an observation tower for a panoramic view toward the Feldberg. where you find a 1.m. The area also has easy hiking trails.) From Freiburg.. the round-trip ride costs 6. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter.m.50) for adults. head back north along B500 to Titisee. Continue south to the hamlet of Todtnau.50). another popular Black Forest lake.

Diners Club. Discovering nightlife in Freiburg The Konzerthaus (Concert House) plays host to a variety of events. England. (Note: Triberg can be jammed with cuckoo-clock shoppers in the summer. to 5 p. 2. and America. in Münsterplatz. Triberg-Gemmelsbach (% 07722/96300). The shop ships to the United States and Canada and takes American Express. Furtwangen (% 07723/920-117). You can’t miss the shop: A giant cuckoo clock and water wheel are in front.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 335 Time out: Buying a Black Forest cuckoo clock Since 1667. In addition to the world’s largest collection of Black Forest clocks. In June. Summer also brings a series of chamber-music concerts to the Historisches Kaufhaus. the museum has timepieces from all around the world and from all epochs. www. to 5 p. to 6 p.deutsche-uhrenstrasse. a painter of clock faces. Josef Weisser. and other traditional crafts. Black Forest clocks were being shipped to China. is available from the tourist information office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Freiburg). Information about all venues and events. when the first wooden clock was made in Waldau. located on B33 between Triberg and Hornberg. and November through March from 10 a. music boxes. 48km (30 miles) northeast of Freiburg on B33. The shop is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. and a program of organ recitals in the Münster. shops also sell woodcarvings. is a good place to go.000 Clocks). ranging from classical music to theater to pop concerts. Triberg is one of the stops on this 320km (200-mile) scenic route through the Black Forest from VillingenSchwenningen to Bad Duerrheim. Triberg. which emphasizes jazz but includes other musical styles. and€ ($3) for students. launched the business in 1824. you find all kinds of museums and sights related to clocks. One of the most interesting museums on the route is the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum). . huge tents house the annual Zeltmusik festival (Tent Music Festival). An der Bundesstrasse 33. The museum is open daily April through October from 9 a. Turkey. MasterCard.m. his great-great-grandson is the current owner.m.m. clocks have been produced in the Black Forest. Clock watchers with time on their hands may want to drive the Deutsche Uhrenstrasse (German Clock Road. including program schedules and ticket sales.m. Along the way. In addition to cuckoo clocks. Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1.) You may also want to visit the Haus der 1000 Uhren (House of 1. Freiburg’s cathedral (described earlier). Russia.m. If you’re looking for a traditional timepiece to take home from the Black Forest. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. As early as 1840.

000 university students. Two clubs in one. Schnewlinstrasse 3 (% 0761/ 32475. and funk. Crash.336 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany With some 25. Gerberau 46 (% 0761/26678. Tram: 1 or 2). the city also has a thriving bar and club scene. a brewpub with a popular beer garden across the street. or 5).–3:30 a. open Wed–Sat 10 p. house.m. Neither club charges a cover. 4. in the basement. to midnight. open Thurs–Sat midnight to 4 a. serves drinks and plays background punk. Drifler’s Club (no phone..m. Tram: 1. .) plays house and techno for dancers.m. is open daily from 11 a. Hausbrauerei Feierling.m.

the old lanes and squares. summer is also a time when droves of visitors from around the globe invade this beautiful city. or Nürnberg as it’s known in German. on the Neckar River. the leafy hills and woodlands beside . Both are castle-crowned cities worth visiting for a day or two. Renaissance. which is set in Heidelberg. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting romantic Heidelberg ᮣ Discovering the cultural delights of Stuttgart ᮣ Exploring historic Nuremberg devote this chapter to three special cities in central Germany. summertime in Heidelberg is a time for music and romance. Heidelberg. The looming ruins of the ancient castle. Nuremberg. located on the Neckar River in the state of BadenWürttemberg. Army base. Stuttgart. (See the “Heidelberg” map in this chapter. is renowned for its castle and its university. This architecture is certainly a major part of Heidelberg’s appeal. is a historic and very attractive city in the state of Bavaria. is one of Germany’s most romantic cities. can easily be visited as a side trip from Heidelberg.Chapter 18 Heidelberg. Heidelberg is one of the few German cities that was not leveled by air raids in World War II (WWII). But some of its legendary romantic allure stems from what was basically a 19thcentury public-relations campaign. Today. I Heidelberg: Romance on the River Heidelberg. Stuttgart. 88km (55 miles) south of Frankfurt. and neoclassical eras.S. so you still can see original buildings from the Middle Ages.) According to a song from the operetta The Student Prince. Many Americans know Heidelberg because of the nearby U. baroque. the cultural center of this region.

6€ ($7.50) for children. Boats depart from the landing stage near the Stadthalle. . and musicians “discovered” Heidelberg in the early 19th century. and unlimited use of public transportation. 5€ ($6.75) for adults.m.m. The Heidelberg Card. From Easter through October. guided bus tours of the city (in German and English). Willy-Brandt-Plaza 1 (% 06221/19433. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 The cost is 7€ ($8. daily (Mon–Thurs in German.rnf-schifffahrt. depart from Universitätsplatz on Thursday and Friday at 2:30 offers daily guided boat tours (commentary in German and English) on the Neckar River between Heidelberg and Neckarsteinach.. For train schedules and information. and Sunday and holidays at 10:30 a. From April through October. 10€ ($13) for students and children. The great writer Goethe and many other poets. Getting there Heidelberg is easily accessible by train from all major cities in Germany and Europe.m. call Deutsche Bahn % 11861 or visit www. including the castle. The round-trip tour lasts about three hours and costs 10€ ($13) for adults. www. November through March the tour takes place only on Saturday at 2:30 p. painters. provides admission to Heidelberg Castle and discounts on attractions. outside the main train station.. and only on Saturday from November through March. walking and boat tours. The train trip to Heidelberg’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is only one hour from Frankfurt and about three hours from Nuremberg. between the TheodorHeuss-Brücke (bridge) and the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge).25) for students and children. Rhein-Neckar-Fahrgastschiffahrt (% 06221/20181. to 6 p. to 7 p. (closed Sun Nov–Mar). Fri–Sat in English) from April through October. Saturday at 10:30 a. and Sunday from 10 a. The town came to symbolize old-world German Romanticism at its most picturesque.m. Taking a guided tour A two-hour guided walking tour of the city departs from the Lion’s Fountain on Universitätsplatz at 10:30 a. Purchase your ticket from the tourist information office at the train station. Purchase tickets at the tourist information office at the train station.m. and the youthful student population all had great appeal to the German Romantics.m.338 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the Neckar.m. www.bahn. and 2:30 The cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. The office has maps and brochures. Finding information The tourist information office. good for two days and available for 14€ ($17) from the tourist information office and at many hotels.m.m. They praised the town in their writings and immortalized it in their music and paintings.

kteufel Am Hac rst Necka r. Land Schlangenweg cksä EICHENDORFFANLAGE gg we en ph oso l i Ph 7 7 Hölderlin. gei 14 eilig upt Ha str. igstr. 15 15 H ststr. rg Marstallstr.ACCOMMODATIONS weg Philosophenrtchen gärtchen e Neu nhe antelg Grosse M S c h if f g a 1 r. gasse Plöck Kling ento rstr. g d lba Mitte ngass . S To Bismarckplatz enga Plöck Heidelberg 339 1 1 To Train Station rich-Ebert-Anlage Fried eg nw ule Heidelberg Munich Das Hotel am Rathaus 9 Der Europäische HofHotel Europa 1 Hotel Hirschgasse 7 Hotel Zum Ritter St. and Nuremberg Akad Semin arstr. str. Semmel Steingasse Dreikön herg. Haspelg.1 mile N 100 meters . Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei Restaurant 15 Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant 2 Mensurstube 7 Simplicissimus 6 Zum Goldenen Schaf 3 Zum Roten Ochsen 13 Zum Sepp’l 14 kar Nec Leyer gasse Mönc a Neck Fisc rstad en Lauerstr. Stuttgart. ndst DINING Die Kurfürstenstube 1 Hotel Zum Ritter St. 12 arls Karlsplatz K ATTRACTIONS Heiliggeistkirche 8 Kurpfälzisches Museum 2 Marktplatz 10 Rathaus 12 Heidelberg Castle 16 Studentenkarzer 4 Universitätsplatz 5 e nbe ies Fr tr. erianstr ing ers tr. frieds Land sse er Unt au er F Marz rP elz Sc hl udwig Karl-L tr. Biene Karpfe Zie Krame ts Haup tr. Schlossber g ch Neue S l os s - st r . AL TS TAD T 6 M rg. se lgas ge r. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei 15 Alte Brücke ime r La r. Theate Kettengasse Friedri chstr. Heumarkt Ob Fischmarkt 8 10 Marktplatz 11 11 Kornmarkt Bur gw sse 3 4 2 2 Haupts tr. Ingrimst e Universitätsplatz San 5 Zw el nn tu rg e sb os hl Sc Castle 16 tr. adg erb . Untere St asse Jubiläumsplatz r ecka re N Unte Bauamtsgasse nstr. 0 0 0. s-s os Grab dga ler Pelz SCHLOSSGARTEN 15 sse rstr. eg . emie -str. 7 hg. Ob r ere Fa ule Ne ue tr. 9 13 sg. loss Sch ue Ne Schlossberg Schloss nweg unne Wolfsbr str. Chapter 18: Werrgas Bism ar Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main äuser Ziegelh str.

to the east. Heidelberg is crisscrossed with a network of streetcars and buses operated by the local transportation department. However. It’s located right in the heart of the city on the Marktplatz. in the Altstadt. Many bus and streetcar lines intersect at Bismarckplatz in the town center. a zoo. The one potential drawback: The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. above the Altstadt. Staying in Heidelberg See also the listing for the outstanding Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa ($$$$) in Chapter 22. and the Kornmarkt. Some larger rooms are suitable for families. the Marktplatz. or Market Square. busy pedestrian street with narrow medieval lanes on both sides. A Bergbahn (funicular. and 7:40 p.340 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Orienting yourself Your first glimpse of “romantic old Heidelberg” as you emerge from the Hauptbahnhof on the west side of town may be disappointing. Getting around Heidelberg After you arrive in the Altstadt you can walk everywhere. valid for up to five persons traveling within a group. Buses 41 and 42 travel between the railway station and Universitätsplatz on the west side of the Altstadt. The main squares in the Altstadt are Universitätsplatz. beneath Heidelberg’s Schloss (castle). with simple modern furnishings and tiled bathrooms with showers. The Altstadt (Old Town). the round-trip fare is 3€ ($3. HSB (% 06221/5132000). Hauptstrasse.50) for children and students. an area of tall buildings and shopping plazas. The city. a focal point for famed Heidelberg University. has a modern and a historical face. . is where you want to focus your sightseeing activities. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. and a botanical garden.m. Across the Neckar River is the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way). Modern Heidelberg centers on Bismarckplatz (streetcar lines 1 and 2 run there from the train station). The Altstadt is a long wedge of slate-roofed buildings along the Neckar River. dominated by the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit). The 17 rooms are small but very pleasant. Das Hotel am Rathaus $ –$$ Altstadt This hotel is one of Heidelberg’s nicest and most affordable. Fischmarkt. costs 8€ ($10). a 24-hour pass. a popular walking trail. daily. The Schloss crowns a hill to the south. 2€ ($2. and the modern one is what you encounter first. like many in Germany and throughout Europe.50).m. up to the castle. so I recommend that you take a streetcar or bus to Bismarckplatz or Universitätsplatz to begin your explorations. the Altstadt is about a half-hour’s walk from the train station.75) for adults. runs from Bismarckplatz into the compact Altstadt. between 9 a. % 06221/22796) runs from Kornmarkt. a wide.

hip Rates: 160€–345€ ($200–$431) double. 69100 Heidelberg. Rates: 144€–206€ ($180–$257) double. The Altstadt is a ten-minute walk from the hotel. MC. and all come equipped with shower-tub-whirlpool combinations in the bathrooms. gabled facade. The Mensurstube restaurant is one of the most historically atmospheric spots in town (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. Rates: 99€–154€ ($124–$193) double. Fax: 06221/454-111. just a couple of minutes’ walk from the river. AE.hirschgasse. Many of the 40 rooms are modest in size. % 06221/1350. Heiliggeiststrasse 1. DC. MC. 69117 Heidelberg. Although they have Romantic Altstadt views. Hirschgasse 3. 339. Fax: 06221/ 147-337. Georg $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Located right on the Marktplatz on Bathrooms are adequately roomy with tub-shower combinations (four . MC.ritter-heidelberg. this historic hotel enjoys a tranquil and romantic setting. V. www. is connected to a microbrewery.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. See map p. the Zum Ritter St. Georg is a well-preserved rarity from the German Renaissance. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). DC. Hauptstrasse 178. www. The hotel dates from 1472 and has lodged such impressive figures as Mark Twain and Fax: 06221/ 135-230. later in this chapter). Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 4-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Heiliggeiststrasse on the east side of Marktplatz). The hotel doesn’t have public lounges. minimalist style. AE. 339. www. 339. Rates include breakfast buffet. the main street in the Altstadt. The 20 rooms are all sumptuously comfortable suites decorated with Laura Ashley fabrics. Kulturbrauerei $$ Altstadt This small (21 rooms). Hotel Hirschgasse $$$ –$$$$ North Side of the River Nestled on the hillside of a historic lane adjoining the famous Philosophenweg on the north side of the Neckar. AE. Most of the rooms contain tiled bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. 69117 Heidelberg. Rates include buffet breakfast. The hotel has a cool. % 06221/14730. the hotel is among Heidelberg’s sightseeing attractions thanks to its highly decorated. The medium-sized rooms have light-colored hardwood floors and are furnished with comfortable beds and large wooden cupboards. V. Hotel Zum Ritter Stuttgart. See map p. V. but the beds are comfortable. The dining room specializes in duck breast and venison. Built in 1592 as the home of a cloth merchant. and Nuremberg 341 See map p. DC. % 06221/4540. the front rooms also can be noisy because of neighboring cafes and restaurants. Bus: 34 from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop. Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rooms have showers only). The house specialty is saddle of venison for two (in season). 69117 Heidelberg. carpaccio of scallops and Scottish wild salmon with mushrooms in raspberry vinaigrette. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 3-minute walk south to Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage). AE. Reservations recommended. See map p.heidelberger-kulturbrauerei. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). try the Dortmunder Actien-Brauerei. The dessert menu is equally scrumptious. Other menu offerings include staples such as pork loin with sauerkraut or roast salmon in a basil-cream sauce. located in one of Heidelberg’s most famous Renaissance buildings. V. MC.m. and 6–10 p. next). the hotel doesn’t have airconditioning. veal with stuffed pumpkins. www. See map p. Look for culinary delights such as cream of watercress soup with poached quail egg and summer truffles in tempura. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). Hotel Zum Ritter St.m. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. 339. you can dine in the large Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) or the smaller Councilors’ Chamber. and filet of turbot with celery on saffron foam with coriander tortellini.m. Reservations required.m. Fax: 06221/900-099. Dining in Heidelberg Die Kurfürstenstube $$$$ Altstadt FRENCH The best dining spot in Heidelberg is the wood-paneled Die Kurfürstenstube in the deluxe Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. If you don’t stay here. Fixed-price menus: 20€–40€ ($25–$50). MC. Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. Leyergasse 6. but the cuisine is mainly French. MC. Rates: 116€–149€ ($134–$186) double. and the wine list is the most impressive in town. AE. V. Hauptstrasse 178. Main courses: 25€–37€ ($31–$46). 339. V. when tables are set up in the microbrewery’s beer garden. with fixed-price and à la carte meals. you may want to dine at the on-site restaurant (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. and 6:30–11:30 p. Fixed-price menus: 60€–80€ ($75–$100). . 339. A children’s menu includes dishes such as Wiener Würstchen (small Vienna-style sausages). Unfortunately. % 06221/1350. In Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. Georg $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL At this restaurant. Main courses: 10€–15€ ($13–$19). If you like beer. Locals flock here when this dish is on the menu. % 06221/5150. AE. A good beginning may be the snail soup with herbs or tomato soup with whipped cream. % 06221/90000. The menu is in English. See map p. The restaurant uses only the highest-quality seasonal ingredients. and courtyard-facing rooms can be noisy in the summer. DC.

Chapter 18: Heidelberg.m. Hirschgasse 3. followed by homemade noodles. seasonal specialties (herring. Hauptstrasse 97. The limited menu wisely sticks to traditional dishes made with fresh ingredients. The menu often includes Rinderfilet (filet of beef) served with bone marrow and a red-wine sauce. See map p. swordfish with a pepper crust.m. AE. MC. Leyergasse 6. and 6–10 p. Reservations recommended. earlier in this chapter). For dessert. olives. and Nuremberg Kulturbrauerei Restaurant $ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL 343 Part of a microbrewery and hotel complex (see the “Staying in Heidelberg” section. Mensurstube $$ –$$$ North Bank GERMAN/REGIONAL No other place in Heidelberg captures bygone days quite like this rustic and cozy spot in the ancient Hotel Hirschgasse. spareribs). roast fish). See map p. 339.m. lamb with rosemary. or tuna fish with tomatoes. In the Hotel Hirschgasse. where swords hang from the ceiling and you sit at 200-year-old tables. popular restaurant formerly was a dance hall. The restaurant also has a pleasant dining room. pork stomach. Come here when you’re in the mood for hearty portions of traditional German food washed down by one of the homemade Scheffel’s beers. % 06221/90000. You can also get meat dishes: a good rib-eye steak. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Haupstrasse). Bus: 34 (from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop). Almost everything is best accompanied by Pils beer on tap. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. or pork medallions in a pepper-cream sauce with homemade Spätzle (a potato-based pasta). 339. You can order salads. try the mocha and Grand Marnier parfait with fruit sauce. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). You can eat on the balcony or. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). V. Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL On a warm summer’s day or evening. V. See map p. in the beer garden. . % 06221/4540. Potato soup is a good starter. 339.m. to midnight. Open: Daily 11 a. in summer. oxtail. V. % 06221/24050. MC. dishes from the grill (bratwursts. Stuttgart. Reservations recommended for dinner. this large.–11 p. MC. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). or vegetarian meals. or lamb shank. DC. Fresh fish dishes may include zander with lemon cream. nothing is more enjoyable or romantic than dining in the museum’s garden courtyard with its splashing fountain. and herbs. Main courses: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). pork filet with mushrooms.m. Open: Daily 10 a.

You may want to try the Kringelbratwurst (roast sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes) or Swabian sauerbraten (marinated beef with red cabbage and noodles). 33. Walking is the most rewarding approach because of the constantly changing views of the town and surrounding countryside. % 06221/183-336. Even in its deteriorated state. the enormous ruins of the castle are undeniably picturesque.–1 a.m. Plan to spend about two hours here. the main street in the Altstadt. The easiest and most gradual path begins at the Klingentor. to midnight.m. 12. Exploring Heidelberg Heidelberg is a wonderfully pleasant town to explore. or by taking a two-minute cable-car ride from Kornmarkt (see “Getting around Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). Sat–Sun 11 a. or crayfish with fresh melon and herbflavored cream sauce. this historic pubrestaurant offers a menu emphasizing regional dishes from Swabia and the Pfalz. duck breast with asparagus. Visiting the top attraction Heidelberg Castle Most visitors reach the huge red-sandstone Schloss on foot. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Hauptstrasse).. Zum Goldenen Schaf $$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL Located on Hauptstrasse. Reservations required. Bus: 11. fresh mushrooms in cream sauce with homemade noodles. and wandering through the old lanes and squares of the Altstadt is as essential a part of any tour as visiting the tourist attractions. Main courses: 19€–45€ ($24–$56). AE. Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). Service is friendly. and the wine list is good. 339. 35. Portions are hearty and very filling. Fixed-price menu: 34€–85€ ($42–$106). . V. Open: Wed–Mon 6 p. % 06221/20879. and one of the most famous historic monuments in Europe. DC. you also find a shorter. The town has few must-see sights.344 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Simplicissimus $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH This elegant gourmet restaurant in the Altstadt is known for its cuisine moderne. Open: Mon–Fri noon to 1 a. See map p. Closed 2 weeks in Mar and 2 weeks in Aug. See map p. The menu changes often but may include lamb with a red-wine and onion purée. or 41.m. it is one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance castles in Germany. Ingrimstrasse 16. but try to save room for warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. 339.m. Hauptstrasse 115. and for many visitors there is only one: the famous Schloss (castle) that looks down on the Altstadt. MC. Set amid woodlands and terraced gardens. steeper path up Burgweg from Kornmarkt. V.

3€ ($3. The Hortus Palatinus (Castle Gardens) originally were created in the 17th century. Along the north side of the courtyard stretches the Friedrichsbau (palace of Friedrich IV). between about 1400 and 1544. in the 16th-century cellars of the castle. Pharmacy Museum.000 liters (55.50€ ($2) children. is the shell of the Spiegelbau (Hall of Mirrors). sits the Grosse Fass (Great Cask). To the east. In the 19th century.m. Open: Daily 8 a. but the castle as it stands today was built in two main phases. Stuttgart. and Nuremberg 345 The history of Heidelberg Castle An elevated fortress rose above Heidelberg as early as 1225.m.000 gallons) of wine.–5:30 p. The second phase. After it was rebuilt. % 06221/25880). vegetables. 4€ ($5) adults. entrance courtyard. fish. Admission: Castle grounds. This enormous wine barrel. On market days (Wed and Sat). was built in 1751 and once held more than 208. 1. the ruins of the castle became a symbol for the German Romantics and a mecca for tourists from around the world. % 06221/538-431. fortifications and living quarters were constructed. Housed within Ottheinrich’s palace is the Apothekenmuseum (Pharmacy Museum. Audio tours: 3.50). the castle was struck by lightning.m. Touring the Altstadt Marktplatz (Market Square) is the main square in the Altstadt. The castle was the residence of the prince electors for centuries until French troops sacked and destroyed it in the late 17th century. Tours: Frequent 1-hour guided tours of the castle in English. The museum is open daily from 10 a. re-creating a baroqueand rococo-era chemist’s shop with utensils and laboratory equipment from the 17th and 18th centuries. you first come upon the Pulverturm (Gun Tower) and a terrace with views of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley.75) adults. your castle entrance ticket includes admission. Schlossberg.. erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his teenage wife (Elizabeth Stuart. you find the remains of a grotto and a sandstone sculpture of Father Rhine. 2€ ($2. Its restored rooms can be seen on guided tours. connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrichsbau (palace of Ottheinrich). cheese.50€ ($4.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. saw the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles as various prince electors of the Palatinate added to the building. from 1549 to 1620. daughter of the English king James I) leads to the bridge crossing the former moat. Entering at the main gate. In the southeast corner. 339. During the first phase.50) children. stalls of fresh flowers. . See map p. The palace’s terrace offers a magnificent view of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. At the west end of the terrace.m. erected from 1601 to 1607 and less damaged than other parts of the castle. the largest in the world. to 5 p. and Great Cask. The Elizabethentor (Elizabeth’s Gate). constructed in 1549. free.

The Rathaus (Town Hall). October through March. and a section on the history of the Palatinate.50) for students and children 14 and younger. A five-minute walk west from the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse and south 1 block on Grabengasse brings you to Universitätsplatz (University Square). now the Hotel Zum Ritter St. Heidelberg University.m. and at the south end of the square is the Neue Universität (New University). on the east side of the square.–5 p. The wall has since been removed and the church restored to its original plan. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. A few steps past the Old University.50€ ($3.10) for adults.. to 6 p. The hotel is named for the statue of the Ritter (knight) at the top. dominates the west end of Marktplatz. In 1706. For nearly 300 years. is the oldest in Germany.m. Hauptstrasse 97 (% 06221/583-402).m. Give yourself about 45 minutes to browse through the various exhibits. stands on the south side of Marktplatz.346 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany meat.000-year-old Heidelberg Man (Homo heidelbergensis). a wall was erected to divide the church between Roman Catholics and Protestants.25) for students and children 17 and younger. You can also see an archaeological collection with a cast of the jawbone of the 600. The museum restaurant (see “Dining in Heidelberg. The prison is open April through September.). The highly decorated Renaissance mansion. cover the walls and even the ceilings. founded in 1386.” earlier in this chapter) is a good choice for lunch or dinner. a building from the 18th century. the church was the burial place of the Palatinate electors. Housed in a baroque palace.m. and baked goods fill the square.75) for adults. including portraits and silhouettes.m.m. Graffiti and drawings. open daily 8 a. Heidelberg’s most noteworthy museum contains a large collection of regional painting and sculpture from the 15th to the 19th centuries. to 4 p. The late-Gothic Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost. On the northeastern side is the Alte Universität (Old University). 1. completed in 1932. built around 1400. (Wed until 8 p.). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. Admission is 2. Augustinerstrasse 2 (% 06221/543-554). The one masterpiece on display is Tilman Riemenschneider’s 1509 wooden altarpiece showing Christ and the Apostles. is an early-18th-century building reconstructed in 1908 following a fire. discovered in the vicinity nearly 100 years ago.80€ ($2. where from 1778 to 1914 generations of students were incarcerated in cramped cells for minor offenses. A Huguenot cloth merchant who emigrated from France to Heidelberg erected the building in 1592. to 6 p. 2€ ($2. no phone. you find the Studentenkarzer (Students’ Prison). Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. . A two-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse from Universitätsplatz brings you to the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate).m. Georg (see “Staying in Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter).

ߜ Kinderwaren Troll. Contact % 06274/58352 for tickets or visit www. Revelers sit at long oak tables arranged in horseshoe fashion around a pianist. late nights get rolling in clubs around Marktplatz. to midnight. sells charming original engravings for as little as 10€ ($13). Hauptstrasse 217 (% 06221/20977).Chapter 18: Heidelberg. the songs become louder and louder. The tavern is open April through October on Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a. offers a wide assortment of handicrafts from across Germany: music boxes. Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn). jazz.m. including Heidelberg Castle. opera.m. cuckoo clocks. to 2 p. is a children’s clothing and toy store with handcrafted puppets. Early evenings often start in the bars along Hauptstrasse. is known for its array of fine linens and embroideries for bed. ߜ Black Forest Shop. UntereStrasse 18 (% 06221/28737).de. the Schlossfestspiele festival brings opera. Friedrichstrasse 5 (% 06221/583-502. and table. Bus: 41 or 42). Meals go for 10€ to 18€ ($13–$22).m. Historic taverns Heidelberg’s most famous and revered student tavern. and beer steins. Hauptstrasse 42 (% 06221/14480). Tram: 1 or 5). Some noteworthy shops include ߜ Altstadt-Galerie Stefan. nutcrackers. opened in 1703. The performing arts The main performance stage is Theater der Stadt. sells Hummel figurines. Hauptstrasse 177 (% 06221/24255. Plöck 71 (% 06221/893-6677).m. dolls. near Karlsplatz. A mug of beer costs about 2. A lively outdoor market is open on Wednesday and Saturday at the Marktplatz. classical music. nativity scenes.schlossfestspielheidelberg. and glass and crystal ornaments. As the evening progresses. Stuttgart. November through March hours are 5 p.50€ ($3) and up. ߜ Gätschenberger. Hauptstrasse 215 (% 06221/619-983). Living it up after dark in Heidelberg The large student population keeps Heidelberg humming after dark. to midnight. ߜ Michael Kienscherff. and theater to venues around the area. . and 5 p. bathroom. and dance productions. where nightly entertainment includes plays. and wooden blocks and figures. and Nuremberg 347 Shopping in Heidelberg The main shopping street is the traffic-free Hauptstrasse. For five weeks beginning in late July.

At the Stuttgart Wine Festival in late August. As a cultural center. A mug of beer goes for 2. Stuttgart makes for a great daytrip from Heidelberg. rides. and west to the Danube River. the Schwäbische Wald (Swabian Forest) stretches to the Schwäbische Alb. Starting in late November.m. begins in late September with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes. Forests sweep south to the Bodensee. It’s open Monday through Friday from 5:30 p. nestled in gently rolling hills with woods and vineyards reaching right down into the 115km (71 miles) southeast of Heidelberg.m. but most of the people who live here still call the area Swabia. A pianist performs nightly.348 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Swabia: Stuttgart’s homeland Swabia (Schwaben in German) is the name for a medieval duchy now contained within the federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southwestern Germany. Next door is Zum Sepp’l. To the north.m.95€ ($3. and cinnamon waffles. Visitors come from across the region to enjoy the city’s museums and performing arts. Stuttgart has no equal in southwestern Germany. Meals cost 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). one of the oldest and largest in Europe. visit the city’s Web site at www.000 beer drinkers. The 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. Stuttgart is the capital of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. who were conquered by the Franks in the fifth century A. to midnight.D. With Stuttgart as its capital. a wedge of limestone upland south of Stuttgart. but the region also is renowned for its scenic countryside. the original inhabitants. to midnight. For dates and more information. Dating back to 1818. The name comes from Suevi. All of them take place right in the center of town on Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. The smaller Neckar River flows past Heidelberg and Stuttgart through a vineyard-covered valley. A Side Trip to Stuttgart Located in the Neckar Valley. with about 230 decorated stalls selling gifts. and tents for some 20. also part of Swabia. yet it remains surprisingly verdant. the beer festival features food. For more than a century Stuttgart has been a center of German industry. Swabia has been a leader of German industry for decades.stuttgart-tourist. wine lovers converge to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties.70). The building dates from 1634. Hauptstrasse 213 (% 06221/23085). mulled wine. and 5:30 p. Stuttgart plays host to a lively Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt). . (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter.) A visit to Stuttgart can be even more enjoyable when you time your trip to coincide with one of the city’s major festivals. Saturday and Sunday from noon to 2:30 p. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. filled with photographs and memorabilia.

ss e ras se an- tra rot Karlsplatz nst stra Fr itz Schillerplatz 7 Kon ns es tra 4 sse tra sse 6 -Ad Berliner Liederhalle Platz trasse asse tr sss Sch lo ne rs G. and Nuremberg 349 Stuttgart Di He Se am es an tra te ss ers e sse tra rass Krie i Sch lag ille tenstra ten Hegelplatz rstr sch STADTGARTEN ngs tra sse ass e Holzgar Kö e S rad Le u ch Bü ch se eo d St or-H ra e s lw u er.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Stuttgart. Heinemann Platz Kleiner Schlossplatz K ien ans tra ass sse Theatersee -Str 3 5 AKADEMIEGARTEN ena Schlossplatz Eug stra ensse stra uer Ulr ich sse sse Urb 8 9 hee Ca st ra ss e r te B Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Stuttgart Munich ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg 7 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart 6 Mercedes-Benz Museum 9 Neues Schloss 3 Staatsgalerie 2 Weissenhofsiedlung 1 Wilhelma 8 DINING Alte Kanzlei 5 Café Königsbau 4 Church Information Post Office i Al To Fernsehturm ex an de rst ra sse Hohenheimer Strasse rh Ebe ar ass e Br str enn as erse sen str s G ai bu rg str e lum ns tra sse ss Charlottenplatz a e tras lzs nig Ki lli che Bo str Th o str uret ass e Lau ass SCHLOSSGARTEN 2 e Staatstheater se Ne stra ckarsse r tle Sat Heg elst sse Ca gs gs ber nn sta a str tras se tte sse rstr 1 Hauptbahnhof ass eg e e rd ns e w tra r Pano am as e ss t ra 0 1/8 mile 125 meters ss Jäg ers ss tra e 0 N SCHLOSSGARTEN e st ra en ss e Moserstrasse We ima rstr ass So ph ien str as se .se ssStr Tüb Kr as o i n s np Stra ger e rin sse zst Kö ras nig se str ass Hir e sch str a sse St ei ns tra Ha ss up e tS ta ds t tr a Le ss o St e str nha ra as rd ss se e -E lsa s-S Do Th M Ho Es lzs St sling tr. ra e sse r Rotebühlplatz e nste gu e Au trass s ar kt Ro Olg Marktplatz Urb ast r.

. For train schedules and information. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861.stuttgart-tourist. to 6 p. Dining in Stuttgart Occupying a section of the Altes Schloss (Old Castle). Königstrasse 28 (% 0711/290-787).de).m.350 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting to Stuttgart By to 7 p. Schillerplatz 5A (% 0711/29-44-57.m. you can take the S2 or S3 S-Bahn directly to the main train station in central Stuttgart. and Sunday 11 a. The restaurant is open daily from 11 a.m. and in March on Fridays. Main courses go for 9€ to 16€ ($11–$20). U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). to 8 p. Access by car is via the A8 Autobahn east and west or the A81 north and south. or other fillings) and Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef topped with onions).m. Finding information and taking a tour Located opposite the main train station.10€ ($6.m. and Sundays at 1:30 p. for 7€ ($8. is open Monday through Friday 9 a. www. serves as a major gateway to southern Germany. Königstrasse 1A (% 0711/222-80. located 13km (8 miles) south of the Ninety-minute city walking tours (in German only) are offered daily from April through October at 11 a. Exploring Stuttgart From the train station.m. to 11 p.m. For information. Saturday 9 a. . Saturday 9 a.m. a one-way ticket costs 1. Stuttgart has a comprehensive S-Bahn system that links up with the U-Bahn (subway). The restaurant has a cafe section where you can get breakfast and lighter meals. to 8 p.m. cake. and accepts American Express.m. spinach.m. Stuttgart Airport (% 0711/948-3388).m. Fares are based on zones.. Coffee. A one-day ticket (Einzel Tageskarte) costs 5. From the airport’s Terminal 1.bahn.m. Purchase tickets from the automated machines in U-Bahn stations or from the bus driver. The cost is 17€ ($21) per person.. an old-fashioned Konditorei (pastry shop) located in the colonnade of the Königsbau next to the new art museum. specializes in traditional Swabian dishes such as Maultaschen (pasta stuffed with ham. MasterCard. or you can sit out on the terrace and have an ice cream. (Nov–Apr 1–6 p. to 6 p. from April through October.m.) The Mercedes Museum and some other sights require the use of public transportation or a taxi. The tourist office offers a 21⁄2-hour guided sightseeing bus tour (in German and English) daily at 1 p.). Diners Club. www. to 6 p.m.50) for two zones.m. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter. and light meals are served at Café Königsbau. trip time from Heidelberg is only 40 minutes. Saturdays.75). Alte Kanzlei. www.vvs. you can reach all the major attractions in the Altstadt on foot.80€ ($2. The cafe is open Monday through Friday 9 a. and Sunday 11 a.. call the city’s transportation authority VVS (% 0711/66060. and Visa.m. the I-Punkt tourist information office. egg.25) for one zone.

Wimpfener Str. Wallgraben Rohrer Weg Möhringen Freibad Möhringen Bf U5 U6 U8 Ruit Zinsholz Parksiedlung Scharnhauser Park Kreuzbrunnen Techn. Bubenbad Payerstr. Geroksruhe Steile Plochingen S1 U4 U9 Heslach Vogelrain Rathaus Österreichischer Platz Marienplatz Schreiberstr. Rommelshausen Münster Rathaus Fellbach Stetten-Beinstein Münster Viadukt Sommerain Kraftwerk Münster Endersbach Beutelsbach 2 Obere Ziegelei Mühlsteg Grunbach Gnessener Str. Bihlplatz Südheimer Platz Österfeld Waldeck Kaltental Engelbold str. Stammheim Kornwestheim Zuffenhausen Kelterplatz Stammheim Rathaus Hohensteinstr. Esslinger Str. Heumaden S-Bahn S1 S2 S3 U-Bahn S4 S5 S6 Vaihingen Viadukt Fauststr. Daimlerplatz Wilhelma Weiler Augsburger Platz Höhenstr. Vaihingen Schillerplatz U1 U3 U6 Vaihingen SSB-Zentum Rohr Jurastr. Peregrinastr. Berliner Platz Gerlingen Siedlung Schlotterbeckstr. Maybachstr. Silberwald Sillenbuch Schemppstr. Eckhardt Neuwirtshaus Korntal Fortuna Löwentor Weilimdorf Wilhelm-Geiger-Platz Ditzingen Feuerbach Krankenhaus Höfingen Sportpark Feuerbach Leonberg Löwentorbrücke Feuerbach Pfostenwäldle Rutesheim Landauer Str. Kirchtalstr. Mineralbäder Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion Metzstraße Karl-Olga Krankenhaus Bergfriedhof Raitelsberg Ostendplatz Schlachthof Tal-/Landhausstr. Vaihinger Str. Akadamie Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Pleininger Str. Zuffenhausen Rathaus Korntaler Str. S2 Badstr. Eltinger Str. Beethovenstr. Mittnachstr. and Nuremberg Goldberg Böblingen Hulb Oberaichen Leinfelden Frank Nellingen Ostfildern U7 U8 Unteraichen Sigmaringer Str. Vogelsang Herderplatz Feuersee Mercedesstr. Rosensteinbrücke Geradstetten Nürnberger Str. Siegelstr. Backnang Mühle Hornbach S3 Maubach Mühlhausen Auwissen Nellmersbach Hofen Max-Eyth-See Winneden Wagrainäcker Schwalkheim Elbestraße Neustadt-Hohenacker Waiblingen Freibergstr. Killesberg Löwen-Markt Renningen Milchhof Weil Messe Rastatter Str. Bockelstr. Sonnenberg Riedsee Waldau Wasenstr. Zuffenhausen Pragsattel Zahn-Nopper-Str. Stuttgart. U7 Mainsheim der Stadt Pragfriedhof Eckhartsaldenweg Wolfbusch Bergheimer Hof Türlenstraße S6 Salamanderweg Rosenberg-/Seidenstr. Friedrichswahl Heutingsheimer Str. Neckartor Schlossplatz Staatsgalerie Gerlingen Hölderlinplatz U6 2 Schloss-Johannesstr. Schwabenlandhalle Schorndorf Uff-Kirchhof Benningen Freiberg U5 U14 Neckargröningen Remseck S5 Tamm Freiberg (N) Wlhelmsplatz Bad Cannstatt Stöckach Felbach Lutherkirche U1 Blick Eszet Suttnerstr. Arndt-/Spittastr. Ludwigsburg 15 Fürfelder Str. Wangener-/Landhausstr. Salzäcker Landhaus Ehningen Gärtringen Nufringen Leinfelden U5 Echterdingen Pleiningen U3 S1 Herrenberg Flughafen Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn 351 S3 Filderstadt S2 U1 2 U3 U4 U5 U6 U7 U8 U9 U13 U14 15 . Borsigstr. Russische Kirche Giebel Keplerstr. Bopser Weinsteige Degerloch Degerloch Albstr. Gaisberg Brendle Im Degen Inselstr. Breitwiesen Falkerstr.Marbach (N) S4 Bietigheim Brückenstr. Millöckerstr. Hauptbahnhof Berliner Platz Untertürkheim U4 Stadtmitte Charlottenplatz Olgaeck Schwab-/Bebelstr. S4 S5 S6 Botnang Universität Hedelfingen U9 U13 Ruhbank 15 U14 Eugensplatz Heidehofstr. Schozacher Str. Wangen Marztplatz Kodak Obertürkheim Mettingen Esslingen Obresslingen Zell Altbach Lindpaintnerstr. Salzwiessenstr. Schwabstraße Dobelstr. Stafflenbergstr. Landesversicherungsanstalt Asperg Favoritepark Tapachstr. Friedrich-List-Heim Kursaal Winterbach Beskidenstr.

The “New State Gallery. 4€ ($5. Some famous examples of European art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries also are exhibited.” designed by the British architect James Stirling and completed in 1984. including works by Modigliani.m. (Wed until 8 p.and 20th-century collection. U-Bahn: Staatsgalerie)..m. in addition to representatives of the Bauhaus school and Blue Rider group.352 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg (Old Castle and State Museum of Württemberg). and Monet.). Picasso.25) for adults. 1€ ($1. Rebuilt after WWII. honors the invention of the motorcar by Carl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler. A must for anyone who has an interest in cars — vintage or otherwise — the Mercedes-Benz Museum. Admission is 3€ ($3. the castle now houses a state museum tracing the art and culture of Swabia and Württemberg from the Stone Age to the present. you’ll enjoy every minute (free audio guides are available in English). 2€ ($2. Untertürkheim Tor 1 (about a 10minute walk).m. take S-Bahn line S1 to Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion. Schillerplatz 6 (% 0711/279-3400. the city’s finest art museum. the Württemberg crown jewels (in the royal vault). The new gallery houses the city’s collection of 19th. and treasures found in the tomb of a Celtic prince (circa A. Stuttgart-Cannstatt (% 0711/172-2578).and 20th-century works by artists from southern Germany.m. Ernst Barlach. to 5 p.m. a cafe open to the public.25) for students. to 6 p. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. to 5 p. Paul in Prison. The new museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. The top floor. including the first motorcycle (built in 1885) and the first Mercedes (1902). To reach it. In this section. the paintings by Otto Dix are particularly compelling (the museum has the most important Otto Dix collection in the world).75) for adults. is one of Stuttgart’s oldest standing structures. and Max Beckmann. a large collection of Swabian sculptures. 530). You can see the highlights in an hour or so. provides a fabulous panoramic view of Stuttgart and its surrounding hills. Nearly 75 historical vehicles are shown. exhibits works spanning some 550 years. Designed by Berlin architects Hascher and Jehle. the museum is a filigree glass cube surrounding a rough-hewn limestone inner core. You’ll see prehistoric stone sculptures.25) for students. Kleiner Schlossplatz 1 (% 0711/216-2188. open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. Give yourself at least an hour here. The museum moved to a new building in 2006. Mercedesstrasse 37. then follow signs to DaimlerChrysler Werk. is considered an icon of postmodern architecture. you find the 19th.D.m. The Neue Staatsgalerie (State Art Gallery).50) for students. Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 30–32 (% 0711/470-400. charges 8€ ($10) for adults. with works of the German expressionists Ernst Kirchner. and Rembrandt’s St. admission is 5€ ($6.m. such as Paul Klee and Lyonel Feininger. first built as a moated castle in the 14th century and later redone in Renaissance style.The museum. Art lovers will . which opened in spring 2005. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). Hans Memlings’s Bathsheba at her Bath. Highlights include Giovanni Bellini’s The Mourning of Christ. It’s worth a trip to Stuttgart just to see the Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (Stuttgart Art Museum).

call Anselm Vogt-Moykopf at % 0172/740-1138 (www. admission is 11€ ($13) adults. and Sunday noon to 5 p.m.m. is the largest zoo and botanical garden in Europe.m. To reach the Weissenhof Estate.75) children younger than 17. Bad-Cannstatt (% 0711/54020). To get there. (Thurs until 9 p. a housing estate built for a building exhibition in 1927. 5. walking tours are available on Saturdays at 11 a. U-Bahn: Liederhalle/Berlinerplatz).de). is home to the highly regarded Stuttgart Ballet and the Staatsoper (State Opera). The animal houses and greenhouses are open year-round from 8:15 a. Admission is 4.weissenhofgalerie. and Hans Scharoun (Hölzweg 1). The park was laid out in 1848 and contains a collection of historical buildings in the Moorish style. to 6 p.60) for adults. For a private architectural tour by an English-speaking city guide/taxi driver.m. Wilhelma. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Am Weissenhof 30 (% 0711/257-1434. Oberer Schlossgarten (% 0711/ 20-20-90.stadtrund fahrt-stuttgart. take a taxi or the U-Bahn line 7 to the Killesberg-Messe stop and walk northeast around the Messe into the residential neighborhood. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. lists all the happenings around Stuttgart. Stuttgart performing arts Even if you’re staying in Heidelberg. . opera.50€ ($5. Tickets for all concerts are on sale at the tourist information office. Listings of the various cultural events and tickets are available from the tourist office (see “Finding information and taking a tour. free for children 13 and younger.m.” earlier in this section on Stuttgart).). provide information about the project and the architects involved. Stuttgart.000 animals and plants from around the world. www. Neckartalstrasse.m. Displays in the small Architektur-Galerie. Classical and other concerts are given in the Liederhalle. Schloss-Strasse (% 0711/2167110. Staatstheater (State Theater). or concert hall. Many of the existing houses represent the functional style that was being promoted by the Bauhaus school of art and design.. Le Corbusier (Rathenaustrasse 1–3). Walking through the estate you see houses created by architects such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (Am Weissenhof 14–29). and Nuremberg 353 Classics of modernist architecture Architecture buffs will want to pay a visit to Weissenhofsiedlung (Weissenhof Estate).40€ ($6. Stuttgart is so close (only 40 minutes by train) that you may want to consider spending an evening there at the available at newsstands. Home to more than 9. take U-Bahn line 14 to the Wilhelma stop. free on Wednesday.).m. the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday 2 to 6 p. want to give themselves a couple of hours here. home to the Stuttgarter Philharmoniker and the Radio Symphony Orchestra. The magazine Lift.m. (Nov–Feb until 4 p.m. to 5 p.

148km (92 miles) northwest of Munich. a small town 35km (21 miles) south of Stuttgart and easily accessible by train. In 300 years. in Nuremberg. were restored or reconstructed in the Altstadt. head to the Markthalle (Market Hall). Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth Nuremberg (or Nürnberg in German) is located in Bavaria. “Nourenberc. convened by the International Military Tribunal. the city grew from a fortress and military base in eastern Franconia (a medieval duchy of south-central Germany) to a virtually self-governing Free Imperial City (Freie Reichsstadt). Dorotheenstrasse 4 (U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). Hitler made Nuremberg the Nazi Party’s permanent convention and rally site. . right outside the main train station. take note: Metzingen. or meeting with the princes of the empire. with the exceptions of Dresden and Berlin. the Nazi war-crimes trials were held here. On and around Kanalstrasse. (See the “Nuremberg” map in this chapter. In the postwar years.354 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Stuttgart You’ll find department stores and boutiques lining Königstrasse. the historic center.” as the city originally was known. From 1356 onward. shoes. sports equipment.) This strikingly attractive and lively city has about half a million residents. and most infamous. and museums definitely is worth it. After he seized power in 1933. tableware. each newly elected emperor of the Holy Roman Empire had to convene his first Reichstag. But the city fell into decline until. including some of the finest Gothic and Renaissance churches in Germany. To Hitler. a cultural flowering made Nuremberg the center of the German Renaissance. but few have been reborn with the kind of evocative grace and charm of Nuremberg. Spending a day or more exploring its streets. many of Nuremberg’s most important buildings. Nuremberg made its second. The city’s role as capital of the empire. Serious shoppers. made it one of the wealthiest and most important cities in medieval Germany. dates back to about 1050. under Hitler. the city’s architecture and previous role in the Holy Roman Empire represented the quintessence of Germany. As a result. suffered such wartime devastation. After the war. historic buildings. an Art Nouveau building dating from 1914 and full of stalls selling local and foreign delicacies. no other German city. and its location at the crossroads of major trade routes. and more. During the 15th and 16th centuries. churches. you find a selection of international designer outlets selling clothing. mark on German history. But for a special shopping experience. Nearly every German city has a restored Altstadt. is the home of Germany’s best and most numerous factory-outlet stores.

Travel time from Frankfurt is about 2 hours.bahn. from Munich. a ss to rg ra ras se hst eic Bl Gr il Sp itt ler A L T S T A D T 17 sse Brunnengasse Ma ri en to r 19 abe w ud Färbe Am Plärrer Ludwigstor t up ss Hastra sto e rgr tra igsJacobplatz L Spittlertor rstra Fürther Tor sse Fraue ngass e Ka b gas tharin gr a se enBlu Lor me enz nst er S ras tra se sse en rge be len be n Pegnitz Adlerstrasse Lauf r e rto Str 16 15 rgra be n chhe rrnstr asse e n - Lessingstrasse aben asse San dstr Hauptbahnhof Kö Frauentorgr nig ACCOMMODATIONS Burghotel Nürnberg 6 Dürer-Hotel 4 Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg 20 Romantik Hotel am Jusephsplatz 17 DINING Bratwurst-Häusle 12 Essigbrätlein 7 Goldenes Posthorn 10 Heilig-Geist-Spital 16 As you wander through the streets of this ancient capital of the Holy Roman Empire.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. www. L a uf e r g. Stuttgart. t ers at rg. For information and schedules. from Berlin. The city’s Hauptbahnhof is within walking distance of all the major attractions. 9 10 7 Obstmarkt Burgs s se Ha b gr a en Tetze lga sse de trasse B nis urgschmiets trasse str ass e ST. Johannis Friedhof Li n Joh an ng a 1 Pr Kleinweidenhle mühle Deuts Neutor ttorg rabe n Pegn iese itz l er w 4 5 6 AlbrechtDürer-Platz Theresiens. JOHANNIS 2 3 dSchil e gass Maxtor Lange G asse Hirschel gasse I n . 8 Karlstrasse i 11 12 13 Haupt-14 markt 21 Kö n ig LORENZ Kornmarkt 18 i Ma TAFELHOF ATTRACTIONS Schwurgerichtssaal 600 1 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus 3 Spielzeugmuseum 8 Altes Rathaus 13 St. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. 1 hour 40 minutes.-LorenzKirche 19 Dokumentationszentrum Hamburg Reichsparteitagsgelände 21 St. you find reminders of Nuremberg’s brightest period. Getting there You can easily reach Nuremberg by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe. and Nuremberg 355 Nuremberg St. l e rass Praterstrasse Beckschlage Wes Neue G.-SebaldusBerlin Kirche 9 Frauenkirche 15 GERMANY Germanisches Nationalmuseum 18 Frankfurt Church Information i Hauptmarkt 14 Nuremberg Railway Kaiserburg 2 Munich Schöner Brunnen 11 s tr rien se as stra sse 20 B a h n h o f s t r a ss e 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters N .de). less than 5 hours.

the city’s main market square. You find historic sights both north and south of the river. By car from Munich. Although the Altstadt is larger than the historic centers in many other German cities.m. children younger than 14 From April through October and on weekends in November and March. 2€ ($2. The cost is 8€ ($10) adults. and from Berlin. The tour includes a visit to the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). and 2 to 4 p. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office. In 30 minutes. to 7 p. www. to 6 p. from the tourist information office at the Hauptmarkt. parts of which still remain and have rampart walks and gateway towers. from Frankfurt.m. and Sunday (May–Sept only) from 10 a.25) for adults. Cost is 5€ ($6. picturesque Pegnitz River bisects the Altstadt. you can walk . to 1 p.m. one of the most successfully restored historic city centers in Germany. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. 6km (4 miles) north of the city center. Orienting yourself Nearly all that is of interest to the visitor is found in Nuremberg’s Altstadt. the entire Altstadt lies within a double wall of medieval fortifications. passing all the major sights on a 40-minute tour with commentary in German (English translations available). from major German and European cities. opposite the train station at Königstrasse 93 (% 0911/233-6132. Flughafen Nürnberg (% 0911/93700.tourismus. The Hauptbahnhof lies on the southern perimeter of the Altstadt. The train departs from the fountain in the Hauptmarkt in front of the tourist office several times a day from 10:30 Roughly oval in shape. to 4 p. Getting around Nuremberg Nuremberg’s Altstadt is almost entirely closed to traffic. take the A9 Autobahn south. The small. the old imperial castle. plus admission to the castle.m. all its sights are easily accessible on foot.m.nuernberg.m. To the north lies the Hauptmarkt.m.m. a small sightseeing train operated by Nürnberger Altstadtrundfahrten (% 0911/421-919) runs through the Altstadt.m.airportnuernberg. take the A9 Autobahn north. Buy your tickets from the tourist information office or from the guide. connections are available to Nuremberg’s small airport. www. A guided 21⁄2-hour walking tour of the city center in English departs daily (May–Oct and Nov 30–Jan 6) at 1 p. crowning the northern periphery is the Kaiserburg. head southeast along the A3 Autobahn.356 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For those traveling by plane.m.50) for children. An additional branch at Hauptmarkt 18 (% 0911/231-5555) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.

and Nuremberg 357 from the Hauptbahnhof to the Kaiserburg through the heart of the city’s medieval core and past most of the historic monuments.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. 90403 Nürnberg. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk southwest along the city wall). www. solid comfort in a great Altstadt location for a reasonable price. AE. See map p. alongside the castle and close to all the major sightseeing attractions in the Altstadt. Burghotel Nürnberg $ –$$$ Altstadt This reliable. % 0911/214-6650. trams. MC. VGN (% 0911/270-750). Rates: 135€–180€ ($169–$225) double. Rates include continental breakfast. Bedrooms are compact and nicely furnished. you could find “grand” hotels like this all across Europe. Mediumsized rooms done in pastel colors open onto the street or a back garden. AE. call % 0911/19410. Fares are based on zones. V. special weekend and summer rates. The smallish tiled baths have showers (some have tub-shower combinations). 355. 355.60€ ($4. V. Rates: 98€–175€ ($122–$187) double. Walking in the Altstadt is easier than using public transportation. Nuremberg’s transportation system consists of a U-Bahn (subway). Neutormauer 32. Rates include buffet breakfast. For more information. Staying in Nuremberg See Chapter 22 for a listing of the charming Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz ($–$$$). call the city’s transportation authority. DC. MC. next to Albrecht Dürer’s house (see the “Exploring Nuremberg” section. The hotel is below the castle walls in one of the most historic parts of the old city. and buses. Lammsgasse 3. The functional bathrooms are tiled and come with shower units. Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg $$$$ Altstadt At one time. 90403 Nürnberg. in a pretty room off the lobby.altstadthotels. Dürer-Hotel $$ –$$$ Altstadt The 107-room Dürer stands beside the birthplace of its namesake. You can enjoy your breakfast. Fax: 0911/ 2146-65555. the only meal served. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse to Lammsgasse). later in this chapter). DC. tickets purchased on Saturday also are good all day Sunday. See map p. The ambience throughout is modern and pleasant. Fax: 0911/ 23-88-91-00.altstadthotels. www. For a The easiest way to use the system is to buy a TagesTicket (day ticket) for 3. Stuttgart. % 0911/23-88-90. 46-room hotel provides good. Buy your tickets from the machines in the U-Bahn stations. They were always close to train stations (because that was how most people .

the largest in Nuremberg. three . % 0911/227-695. have roomy. or 12 pieces). the open grill in the rustic. wood-paneled dining room warms you. marble-clad bathrooms. www. A good beer to go with your wursts is Lederer Pils. . Come to sample original Nürnberger Rostbratwurst (6. Note: Those big. zwei. 355. . AE. a beer brewed locally since 1468. dating from 1550. drei . Seasonal game and fish dishes also are staples in restaurants serving Franconian fare.50–$13). Rates: 250€–390€ ($312–$487) double. located opposite the Rathaus and close to the church of St. 8. Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is inventive and refreshing. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (then a 5minute walk north on Königsttrasse to Rathausplatz). 355. Children under 12 stay free in their parents’ room and baby-sitting can be arranged. two. % 800/543-4300 in the U. 10. Your bratwursts may come with sauerkraut or rye bread with very hot mustard. MC.” (one. AE. and Canada.) and so on. . you can dine on a leafy outdoor terrace. . served on pewter plates. Bratwurst-Häusle $ FRANCONIAN The Bratwurst Häusle is the most famous bratwurst house in the city. “Eins. Bahnhofstrasse 1–3.lemeridien. Dining in Nuremberg Nuremberg is in a region called Franconia. known for its hearty and relatively uncomplicated cuisine. V. MC. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is directly across the street from the train station). Look for an ever-changing menu based on seasonal availability. delicious-looking pretzels (Brezeln) on your table are not free. V. Built before World War I. You may hear the sausage seller in an open booth on the street shouting. See map p. Essigbrätlein $$$$ FRANCONIAN/CONTINENTAL The city’s most ancient restaurant. DC. 90402 Nürnberg.m. originally was a meeting place for wine in summer.80€ ($ 7). The traditional specialty is roast loin of beef marinated in vinegar (what the name of the . Fax: 0911/23-22-444.–10:30 p. or 0911/23220. In winter. The guest rooms. The city is famous for its finger-size Rostbratwurst made of pork and various spices and then broiled on a charcoal grill. with many nouvelle recipes. The hungry consumer shouts back the number of bratwursts he wants. people typically have up to 14 for lunch.S. You can also get them to go (zum mitnehmen). Rathausplatz 1. each one you eat goes on your bill and costs 5. and they were always the largest and most glamorous places to stay. Main courses: 6€–11€ ($7. Sebald. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a.m. See map p. The locals consider fewer than six bratwursts a snack. this grand hotel escaped destruction in World War II and consequently still retains much of its unique Art Nouveau atmosphere and detailing.358 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany traveled).

bar. See map p. in business for 650 years.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Main courses: 20€–28€ ($25–$35). AE.m. DC. and bratwursts. and 6–11:30 p. and beer garden beside the river in a romantic corner of the Altstadt is a real scene on warm evenings. In season. Fixed-price meals: 38€–42€ ($47–$52) lunch. you can order leg of venison with noodles and berries. Goldenes Posthorn $$ –$$$ FRANCONIAN No other restaurant in Nuremberg can match the antique atmosphere of the Goldenes Posthorn. Spitalgasse 16. Stuttgart. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 1:30 p. Weinmarkt 3. DC. Carp is a specialty. The menu is limited to just a few dishes. including vintages that date back to 1889. V. Bus: 46 or 47 to Spitalgasse. Main courses: 10€–14€ ($13–$17). 355. . MC. to midnight. Closed Jan 1–15 and 2 weeks in Aug (dates vary). such as curried chicken on rice. MC. AE. Wiener Schnitzel with french fries. Reservations required. Open: Daily 11 a. 355. Kettensteg is a nice place to relax and have a good time. Tues–Sat 7–9:30 p. The restaurant has a fine wine list. % 0911/225-153.. Heilig-Geist-Spital $ FRANCONIAN Nuremberg’s largest historic wine house. Fixed-price meals: 17€ ($21) lunch. Although the atmosphere has become more casual and touristy in recent years. when the tables fill up fast and everyone stays late. and Nuremberg 359 restaurant means in German). % 0911/221-761. % 0911/225-131. Vegetarians can choose from vegetable lasagna or various salads. Kettensteg $ FRANCONIAN/INTERNATIONAL This restaurant. 65€–79€ ($81–$99) dinner. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. Main courses: 7€–20€ ($8. fresh carp (in winter). See map p. and so are pork knuckle and sauerbraten. hearty and filling. AE. Reservations recommended. DC.75–$25). Among its mementos is a drinking glass reputedly used by Albrecht Dürer. 355.m. spans the Pegnitz River and is an atmospheric spot to dine. the restaurant’s kitchen still features such old-fashioned but satisfying Franconian dishes as quail stuffed with gooseliver and nuts. venison in red wine with plums. Glöckleingasse 2. which claims to be in the oldest house in Germany. MC. Bus: 36 to Burgstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Glöckleingasse). Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Winklerstrasse to Weinmarkt).m.m. V. See map p. 20€–42€ ($25–$52) dinner. The main dishes are typical Franconian fare. with more than 100 vintages. talking and drinking and eating under the trees. V.m. and wurst with a mixture of onions and vinegar. The wine list is abundant and excellent. You’ll want to dress up a bit if you’re going to dine here.

and copies of Dürer’s paintings. % 0911/13310. U-Bahn: Opernhaus (then a 3minute walk north on Kartäusergasse). Tues–Sun 10 a. (Wed until 9 p. % 0911/221-081. tours 2. No credit cards. Bus: 36 to Maxplatz. one of the great German artists of the Renaissance. Exhibits inside the house are devoted to Dürer’s life and works..–11 p. 2. 355.–5 p. Main courses: 8€–13€ ($10–$16). Built in 1420.D. so walking is a pleasure. Admission: 5€ ($6. and you need to give yourself at least two hours to see it.m. winter daily 11 a.m. . Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum) Germany’s largest and most important museum of German art and culture is the one must-see museum in Nuremberg.10). so you need to choose your areas of interest and consult the galleries’ map frequently. (Thurs until 8 p.).10) students and children ages 6 through 15. dollhouses. nearly all of which are found in the Altstadt.50€ ($3. Tours: Guided tours in English Sat 2 p. created by Martin Behaim. Furnishings in many of the rooms are important historical pieces. See map p. a sculptor and woodcarver known for his “nervous” angular forms and realism. lived in this house from 1509 to 1528.m. 355.m.50€ ($3.–5 p.25) adults. This is an exhaustive and exhausting place.m. and 6–11:30 p.m. Everyday life in Germany through the ages is documented with domestic furnishings.–6 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. The collection covers the entire spectrum of German craftsmanship and fine arts from their beginnings to the present day. weapons. is on display. Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39. Open: Mon (July–Sept only) 10 a.–2:30 p.m. The prehistoric and early historical sections contain finds from the Stone Age and from the burial sites of the Merovingians (a Frankish dynasty ruling from about A. Kartäusergasse 1. 500 to 750).. and the healing arts.m.m. Typical of the well-to-do burghers’ houses of the 15th century. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Albrecht Dürer House) Albrecht Dürer. See map p. Most of the historic core is for pedestrians only. It’s a huge place and not laid out in an intuitive way. % 0911/231-2568. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 3-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse). historic musical instruments. The extensive painting and sculpture sections include works by Renaissance greats Albrecht Dürer and Veit Stoss. as is a self-portrait by Rembrandt. Open: Summer daily 11 a. folk objects.360 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Maxplatz 35. 4€ ($4) children and students. it’s the only completely preserved Gothic house left in Nuremberg.m. The world’s first globe.m. the structure has a first floor of sandstone surmounted by two half-timbered stories and a gabled roof.m. original etchings and woodcuts.m.25) adults. Admission: 5€ ($6.).m. Exploring Nuremberg You need at least one full day to explore the main attractions of Nuremberg.

Admission: 5€ ($6. who lived in the inner core of the castle complex. Open: Apr–Sept daily 9 a.) pyramid-shaped stone fountain from 1396. a later section. figures of the seven electors appear and pay homage to Emperor Karl IV.– 4 p. A fine view of the roofs and towers of Nuremberg can be seen from its terraces. just north of the Pegnitz River at the northern end of Königstrasse. and the castle gardens. dates from 1340.m. the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well). on Rathausplatz just off the market square. Filled with stalls selling fresh flowers. Stuttgart.–6 p. is Nuremberg’s geographic and symbolic heart. and paintings. Burgstrasse. In the northwest corner stands the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain). armor. The council of Nuremberg erected another set of buildings in the 14th and 15th centuries when its responsibilities expanded to include the protection of the emperor.m.m.. The oldest portion. and Nuremberg Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square) 361 The cobblestoned Hauptmarkt. every day at noon. With their heavy oak beams and painted ceilings. looming above the city from its hilltop at the northern edge of the Altstadt.m. 4€ ($5) students. Most of the buildings were constructed during the 12th century. The Kaiserburg Museum (% 0911/2009540) contains antique weaponry. Watchmen and guards used the ramparts with their parapet walks and secret passages to protect the kings and emperors. Oct–Mar daily 10 a. fruits. was the official residence of the German kings and emperors from 1050 to 1571. % 0911/206-560. Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) The Kaiserburg.–6 p.m. open Mon–Sat 9 a. and toys — both hand.and machinemade — fill all three floors of this museum. completed in 1622. now a youth hostel. Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) Nuremberg is a major toy center. Some date from medieval . The new buildings include the Kaiserstallung (Emperor’s Stables). the great Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) on the ground floor and the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) on the second floor look much as they did when King Frederick III rebuilt them in the 15th century. marks the architectural transition from Renaissance to baroque style. free for children 16 and younger. on the eastern edge of the square.Chapter 18: Heidelberg.25) adults. Sun 12:30–6 p.m. Allot at least an hour to explore the various nooks and crannies of the castle. The 14th-century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady. and explains the history of the castle. has been in ruins since a fire destroyed it in 1420. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 10-minute walk north following signs). the Hauptmarkt is the most colorful square in the city. has on its facade a gilded 16th-century mechanical clock called the Männleinlaufen (a hard-to-translate word meaning “little men running”). The rooms are decorated with period Gothic furnishings.m. an 18m-high (60-ft. % 0911/2446590. 355. The oldest part of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). the massive bastions of the fortress.). See map p. and vegetables.. the 11th-century Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower).

reopened as the new Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds). to enjoy this acclaimed museum. . hangs over the entrance to the choir. Objects on the top floor illustrate the history of toys since 1945.m. St. U-Bahn: Bärenschanze).25) admission includes an audio guide.m.m. Saturday and Sunday 10 a. take Tram 6 or 9 or Bus 36.m. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Augustinerstrasse and north on Karlstrasse). though. soaring pillars adorned with expressive Gothic sculptures line the nave. so tours (in German only) are available only on Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 4 p. visit the Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (International Military Tribunal).-Lorenze-Kirche was begun in 1270 and took more than 200 years to complete. carved in linden wood by Veit Stoss. times. Here. 55. Afterward.m. ten were hanged. magic lanterns. and a magnificent stained-glass rosette window glows above the organ at the west end. in room 600.50€ ($3). the huge Congress Hall designed by Hitler’s architect. Fürther Strasse 110 (% 0911/231-5421.. from Adam and Eve through the Last Judgment. The church contains two more remarkable works: The Angelic Salutation (1519). To reach the center.50€ ($3. and. Lawrence) The largest and most beautiful Gothic church in Nuremberg rises above Lorenzerplatz.m. the 5€ ($6. Admission is 2. % 0911/231-3164. more if you have kids in tow. to 6 p. 21 of the surviving leaders of the Third Reich stood trial in November 1945 for crimes against humanity. a specially remodeled courtroom. and model railways and other miniature vehicles. 2. where the Nuremberg Trials took place. to 6 p. Karlstrasse 13–15. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a.. or do crafts in a supervised playroom..–6 p. In November 2001. Inside. Albert Speer.m. Sat–Sun 10 a.m. A glass corridor now pierces the upper level of Speer’s Congress Hall. 355. Exhibits include a large collection of dolls and old dollhouses.–5 p. See map p. I strongly recommend a visit here because it provides a chronological overview of the rise of Nazism and its subsequent horrors in a compelling format. to the left of the altar. Give yourself at least an hour. optical toys (such as peep shows.10) students and children. and stereoscopes). including Barbie dolls and LEGO blocks.m. Twin towers flank the west portal with its sculptures depicting the theme of redemption. or 65 to the Docu-Zentrum stop. which is larger than the Colosseum in Rome. You don’t have to be a kid.-Lorenz-Kirche (Church of St. draw.362 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Judgment at Nuremberg If you’re interested in a famous landmark of WWII. Admission: 5€ ($6. a stone tabernacle by Adam Krafft (1496) presents likenesses of the sculptor and two apprentices. The building still serves as a courthouse.25) adults. Kids can play with toys. The center is open Monday through Friday 9 a. Bayernstrasse 110 (% 0911/ 231-5666). The corridor houses an exhibition that chronicles the ruthless misuse of power under National Socialism. The St.

fruitcakes. tinsel.m. U-Bahn: Lorenzerkirche). and puppet groups occur daily. when all the surrounding buildings are floodlit. The nave and west choir are Romanesque.m. Hofman.m. consecrated in 1379. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a.–4 p. Performances by singers and musicians. The Christmas fair transforms Hauptmarkt into a small town of wood-and-cloth stalls selling tree ornaments. the oldest Christmas fair in Germany.Chapter 18: Heidelberg.m. The square is especially beautiful at night.m. Tickets range from 8€ to 50€ ($10–$63). to 4 p. is Gothic. opens early for big breakfasts (served all day) that run from 4€ to 18€ ($5–$22) and offers soup. Admission: Free. has classic and collectible Steiff bears for 90€ to 140€ ($112–$175). and Nuremberg 363 See map p. this church dedicated to Nuremberg’s patron saint represents the stylistic transition from late Romanesque to early Gothic styles.. Lorenzer Platz 10. Oct–Feb daily 9 a. Richard-Wagner-Platz 2–10 (% 0911/231-3808.m. Living it up after dark in Nuremberg The Städtische Bühnen (State Theaters). Between the two east pillars is a 16thcentury Crucifixion group dominated by a life-size Crucifix by Veit Stoss. Karl-Griolenberger-Strasse 28 (% 0911/ 223-041. 355. the larger east choir. dance.–8 p. 355. and theater.–6 p.–5 p. U-Bahn: Weisser Turm).m. Stuttgart. sells painted tin figures of soldiers and Christmas decorations. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit the station).m. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit). From Advent Sunday to December 24.-Sebaldus-Kirche Consecrated in 1273.m. salad. Lebkuchen (see the sidebar “Love that Lebkuchen”). is a theater complex offering productions of drama (in the Schauspielhaus) and opera (in the Opernhaus). and . St. Bus: 36). Steiff Galerie. June–Sept daily 9:30 a. Rathausplatz 7 (% 0911/204-848. An artists’ hangout.m. % 0911/214-2516. held here for some 400 years..m. Nuremberg’s Hauptmarkt becomes the setting for the Christkindlmarkt. See map p. Open: Mar–May daily 9:30 a. and Glühwein (hot red wine spiced with cloves and cinnamon). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof) is an enclave of halftimbered shops and stalls where artisans create and sell a wide range of handicrafts (along with touristy souvenirs).. Shopping in Nuremberg Located across from the railway station. and Saturday from 10 a. The shops are open weekdays (and Sun in Dec) from 10 a. candies. Admission: Free. % 0911/209-287. handicrafts. to 6:30 p. the Handwerkerhof (Craftsmen’s Courtyard. Kaiserstrasse 1–9 (% 0911/235-5075.m. Sun 1–4 p.. Sebalderplatz. Triebhaus.m. U-Bahn: Opernhaus).

m. sandwich specials from 4.m.m. Lebkuchen makes a Zollhausstrasse 30 (% 0911/89660.60–$7.m. Tetzelgasse 21 (% 0911/221-921.364 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Love that Lebkuchen Lebkuchen (layb-koo-kin) is to Nuremberg what Marzipan is to Lübeck. www. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche). to 1 a. many places make and sell Lebkuchen in several different forms.50) until 10:30 p.50€ to 7€ ($5. Café Ruhestörung.75). inexpensive gift. These delicious honey-andspice cakes evolved into their round shape in Nuremberg. The city’s been the capital of Lebkuchen since the early 15th century. to be the best Lebkuchen store in Nuremberg.m. has a pleasant patio where you can order a drink or a sandwich. sells Lebkuchen packed in containers that look like half-timbered German houses.60–$8. and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. Bergstrasse 1 (% 0911/243-464. While jealously guarding their recipes. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. Many consider Lebkuchen Schmidt. Sandwiches and light meals cost 4. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m.50€ to 6€ ($5. to 1 a.m.m. to 1 a. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche). to 1 a. Lebkuchen Frauenholz. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a. .lebkuchenschmidt.

north. Sitting right on the river. I give most of the coverage to Cologne. and vineyard-covered slopes. Through the centuries. encompasses roughly 23. (See “The Rhineland” map in this chapter. who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles. the area along the river’s west bank. see Chapter 17). and forms Germany’s southwestern boundary as it continues west.Chapter 19 Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the Rhine-side city of Cologne ᮣ Enjoying a boat trip on the Rhine ᮣ Exploring the warm wine country of the Rheingau ᮣ Taking in the scenery of the lovely Mosel Valley T he Rhine (spelled Rhein in German) is one of the world’s great rivers. flows through the Bodensee (Lake Constance. so the story goes. you can drive into the Rheingau. km (9. Transformed into a siren. medieval towns. and northwest to the North Sea.) In this chapter. Goarshausen. was a beautiful young woman who threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover.000 sq. The Rhineland. she sat on the rock combing her long. the river originates in southeastern Switzerland. blonde hair and taking out her revenge by luring fishermen and ship captains to their destruction. The Rhine also is at the musical heart of Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen. Some 1. the Rhineland’s largest and most important city.320km (820 miles) long. the most famous being the one attached to a high rock called the Lorelei (also spelled Loreley) towering above the town of St. From Cologne. the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world. the Rhine has inspired many legends.000 sq. a lovely winegrowing section of the . this city makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland. Lorelei. miles) and is a treasure-trove for tourists. For about two centuries now.

covered with meticulously tended vineyards. a dizzyingly ornate Gothic cathedral beside a modern museum complex. and general delirium. car. you can traverse 2. the emperor Claudius gave the city municipal rights as capital of a Roman province. Ancient traditions are annually renewed in the city’s raucous pre-Lenten Carnival (called Fasching). Older than the cathedral. . and a humble Romanesque church wedged in among luxury shops. Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine Visitors to this lively metropolis on the Rhine. visitors and citizens alike stroll along the Rhine promenades and flock to outdoor taverns and restaurants to enjoy the pleasures of a Kölsch. or plane.. Cologne — spelled Köln in Germany and pronounced koeln — offers far more than just Germany’s largest cathedral. The Kölner themselves are refreshingly relaxed and down-to-earth in how they enjoy their city. when Roman legions set up camp here.C. or a boisterous outdoor concert in the Rheinpark. or trade-fair grounds. is also worth exploring. Getting there Cologne is one of the major cities in western Germany. the Mosel Valley. an opera at the highly regarded opera house. a time of masked balls. Germany’s fourth-largest and oldest city.D. In addition to its substantial Roman legacy. the city boasts 12 major Romanesque churches. I describe the highlights of all these side trips later in this chapter. is likewise a vital component of life here. Cologne traces its beginnings to 38 B.000 years of history. Music. When the weather turns warm. The range of its museums and the quality of their collections make Cologne one of the outstanding museum cities of Germany.” one of the most important pilgrimage cities in medieval Christendom. are immediately struck by Cologne’s cheek-by-jowl juxtaposition of the very old with the very new. As early as A. The city also is famous as the birthplace of eau de Cologne. many of whom come to attend the giant international trade fairs held in the Köln Messe. and getting there is easy by train. parades.366 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. Every year they welcome millions of visitors. 50. and a substantial meal of typical Rhineland cuisine. Cologne’s unique and delicious beer. the churches drew medieval pilgrims from all across Europe to “Holy Cologne. And although not as grand and legend-filled as the Rhine. On a ten-minute walk in Cologne. whether it’s a symphony concert in the modern philharmonic hall. You can see Roman ruins in an underground parking garage.

m. A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 25€ ($31).airport-cgn.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 367 The Rhineland Rh A57 A31 A3 A43 A1 Hamm A2 A44 7 0 0 64 55 30 mi Paderborn N 30 km in e 68 Herne NETHERLANDS Duisburg Essen A2 Dortmund Hamburg 7 A44 7 Mönchengladbach Hochneukirch A61 A4 Düsseldorf A46 A1 Wuppertal A45 55 ANY R MBerlin GE Bonn Area of detail Frankfurt 252 am Main A44 Cologne (Köln) A4 Siegen 62 Munich 3 Aachen Bonn Bad Godesberg A1 258 Marburg A45 A3 3 Alsfeld A5 A61 255 42 54 Giessen Wetzlar 49 Rh in e BELGIUM 9 Koblenz A3 A27 A5 A45 Daun A48 A61 54 Gelnhausen ose A1 327 Wiesbaden Rüdesheim Frankfurt am Main A3 M l Assmannshausen Bingen 50 Bitburg Mainz Aschaffenburg Rh i Bad Kreuznach LUXEMBOURG Trier Luxembourg A1 41 A63 A61 Darmstadt A5 A67 M a in ne Idar-Oberstein 271 Bockenheim Grünstadt Neuleiningen A6 9 Worms 469 A62 Mannheim Ne Kaiserslautern A8 A6 A62 Ludwigshafen Speyer 10 ckar 27 Heidelberg A6 A65 9 Saarbrücken Metz F R A N C E A5 Heilbronn Karlsruhe By plane Cologne’s airport. to nearly 2 a. Direct flights arrive from most major European cities. www. The fastest and simplest way to get into the city is by taking an S-Bahn train (S-13) from the new airport train station directly to the Cologne main train station. .de).75). the fare is 3€ ($3. Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn (% 02203/ 40-40-01.m. is located 14km (9 miles) southeast of the city. It runs from 5 a. The trip takes 20 minutes.

The office has city maps. good for a single one-way fare within the inner city is 1.m.bahn. described under “Exploring Cologne. including the mighty cathedral and the most important museums.m. while the A4 Autobahn travels east and west. to 8 p. on the Rhine’s east bank. are located in the Altstadt (Old Town). Besides providing the best views of the cathedral-dominated Cologne skyline.m. the restored and much altered medieval core of the city. U-Bahn (subway). to 5 p. Deutz is where you find the Köln Messe (trade-fair grounds) and the Rhinepark. Getting around The compact and pedestrian-friendly Altstadt. and Sunday 10 a. is easily explored on foot.m.” later in this chapter. www. (See the “Cologne” map in this chapter. and Hamburg (trip time: 41⁄2 hours).de/tourismus. except for three gateways. tram. The Altstadt spreads in a semicircle west from the Rhine to a ring road that follows the line of the 12th-century city walls (demolished. next to the cathedral. is a . the historical heart of Cologne. and information on city attractions. the “new” part of town dating from the 19th century. Frankfurt (trip time: 21⁄2 hours). The area across the river.) The center of the Altstadt is the Innenstadt (Inner City). is called Deutz. The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is in the heart of the city. For train information and schedules. The ring road and a greenbelt in the southwest (the location of the university) girdle Neustadt. The city’s early industrial plants were concentrated in Deutz. A day ticket. The A3 Autobahn connects the city to the north and south. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). a room-rental service (3€/$3. Getting oriented The major sights of Cologne. is located just a few steps from the cathedral. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. where you find the cathedral and most of the major attractions. where the Romans built their first walled colony.75€ ($1) for children. The city also has an excellent bus. in the 19th century). costs 8€ ($10) and enables you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network (but the Cologne Welcome Card. the Kölner Tageskarte. Finding information The Köln Tourismus Office. Frequent daily trains arrive from Berlin (trip time: 51⁄2 hours).50€ ($2) for adults.368 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany By train Cologne is a major rail hub. Unter Fettenhennen 19 (% 0221/221-30400. so reaching the city from anywhere in Germany or the rest of Europe is easy. By car Cologne is easily reached from major German cities. and many of them are still there. and S-Bahn (light-rail) system. The office is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. A CityTicket.75).

V ictori astrass tr. Friesen. St. 13 Heumarkt Fleischme ngerg. Alten Uf er Konrad .A Gl Erftstrasse ad Strenba ass ch e er ll tra wa Ein ns reo e G Kyotostr.25 mi 0. n - 14 Alter Markt 11 lzg. lks sse ga rin ll K a r tä use Eifelplatz n- wa g f rho D r eik ö n i g ens t r. r- Tanzbrunnen n imi M ax t r . s en - Köln Messe e r n -Str Auf dem Berlich senstr. str. ch sse Vo tra tra NEUSTADT Eif rte n VOLKSGARTEN str. e Ur s u las Machab äerst ras se de n a ue Ha a ns rin g s cht Eigelstein b ay ac Strasse Domstrasse Dagobertst rasse R h i n e N r tr hs as se Ha g rin nsa nso re Ge wall Thürmchenswall 1 RHEINPARK tr.-A p Richmodstr. astr.gasslde bahnhof Kennedy-Ufer Ch rist str oph. ALTSTADT-NORD M a r zellens t r . erst Neue W ey We sse kt G r o n ma r ch e G ri e au Bl er. i 9 8 Hohe Strasse Hohenzollernbrücke 4 5 Am Ho f INNENSTADT 6 7 Frankenverft 2 DEUTZ S tr . Mindener s s t ras s e St ras s e Minoritenstrasse Fischmarkt rger Habsbug rin Ei fe Am Leystapel - Mau ritius wall ng l lner Neukö e Strass Hohe nstau in w fenri eg Holz- TelAviv -Str asse Severin strasse markt r lsbe be Ga gerstrasse l al lw . Thieboldgasse 12 LeonhardTietz-Str.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 369 Cologne 0 0 0. Agripp Ro on h str bac as se r. ach nb h le Fitzengraben Ja hn auRhein strasse ch n e R h i strasse Severi nsbrück e en ass Am ais el- str en os ha M xem U llr Bus Ka Lo th rin Sa ge rS Lu rtä se chg ich Barbarossaplatz Sa lie rri Bu ng rg un str de as se rs tr. E hr e n s t r a s se Br e i t e T u ni 10 Brüc ke str . iden ga sse us ALTSTADT-S ALTSTADT-SÜD V Sieb or den en b u rg en us er- rge ga s se ergLandsb e strass asse nstr Rose Hamburg Berlin en-e Bay ass str e bu GERMANY Cologne r- W . i n er gu st Au Pipi nstr. 3 3 Go Haupt. Zeu g haus rgmauer Bu . Mauri tiusste Neumarkt Gürzenichstr. Johan nisstr.25 km Uf e M Turiner Wi Kai lhe ser lm -Ri ng Tunisstrasse Mohrenstrasse Am Gereonshof Gere onst r. Frankfurt Munich wall erin Sev sUbie rrin g els ACCOMMODATIONS Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Excelsior Hotel Ernst 3 Hotel Engelbertz 11 Hyatt Regency Köln 2 Senats Hotel 14 DINING Bräuhaus Sion 7 Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Früh am Dom 8 Hanse Stube 3 Sünner im Walfisch 15 Taku 3 ATTRACTIONS Dom 4 4711 Haus 10 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 9 Museum Ludwig 6 Kölner-Seilbahn 1 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 5 Schnütgen Museum 12 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 13 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn i Siegburger Str.P rb e g th erl Ro en bach gra b ba Mü Waidmarkt str . 15 Sa 16 16 Deutzer Brüc ke Mittelstrasse Rudolfplatz SchilderCäcilien- gasse Nordt Süd Fahr Hahnenstr.Ma Frie gnu sstra sse platz Hohenzol lernFriesenwall ring s t r.

de/stapelhaeuschen. Rates: 64€–85€ ($80–$106) double without bathroom. Excelsior Hotel Ernst ($$$$). cheery. from bus drivers. call VRS at % 01803/504-030. wooden staircase (or take the elevator) to your room. you climb up a curving. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt The two town houses that make up this hotel stand on a corner of a historic square. Hotel Engelbertz $ Altstadt This modest. The city buzzes with masked balls. The season officially lasts from New Year’s Eve to Ash Wednesday. all with small bathrooms that have a tub or shower. The 31 rooms are fairly basic but comfortable and not lacking in a kind of old-fashioned charm. parades. Natives call this citywide celebration Fasteleer or Fastelovend. 50667 Köln. % 0221/272-7777. Fischmarkt 1–3.50€ ($3). The hotel has 40 rooms.” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events in Germany. validation machines are in stations and on buses. Fax: 0221/257-4232.50€ ($2) per kilometer thereafter.370 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Celebrating carnival in Cologne Cologne’s Carnival. Staying in Cologne Also see Chapter 22 for details on Cologne’s premier hotel. . The decoration throughout is light. and general delirium. Taxi meters start at 2. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). and modern. Rates include buffet breakfast. From the wine restaurant on the ground floor (see “Dining in Cologne. the fare rises 1. 90€–108€ ($112–$135) double with bathroom. better deal because it includes public transportation and free or reduced-price entry to museums and other attractions).” later in this chapter). some rooms have beamed ceilings. or at the stations. the city’s “fifth season. Be sure to validate your ticket.25) if you hail a taxi from the tiled bathroom with shower. www. Purchase tickets from the automated machines (labeled Fahrscheine). plus 1€ ($1. See map p. Ten units come with a small. right on the Rhine in the busiest section of the Altstadt. To order a taxi. call Taxi-Ruf at % 0221/19410. For information about public transportation. 369. family-run hotel is in a central location close to everything in the Altstadt.

19 Heimersdorf Longericher Herforder Str. Reichenspergerplatz Außere Kanalstr. weg rsdo nerg Str. Sülzburgstr. Porz Steinstr. tr rS th Ra - FrechenKönigsdorf Appeilhofplatz Heumarkt Suevenstr. Zülpicher Str./ Rektor-Klein-Str./Bf Süd 17 Raiffeisenstr. 17 Buchheim Frankfurter Str. Porz Porz-Wahn Spich Troisdorf Köln / Bonn Flughafen c Fre Siegburg He nn ef en nk Bla bu rg M e art n o Eit rf n ld rn h he nfe de ac rsc tte sb Au (Sieg) hla He Da Sc Ro Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Sankt Augustin-Mülldorf Sankt Augustin Markt Sankt Augustin Kloster Buschdorf 16 Severinsbrücke Drehbrücke Zülpicher Platz Poller Kirchweg Gleuser Str. Neumarkt Weyertal 15 Baumschulenweg Mersdorf Universität 6 Kölner Str. Parkgürtel Kinderkrankenhaus Margaretastr. Eifelstr. Ensen Arnulfstr. K-Blumenberg 5 Odenthaler Str. Str ter r fu nk f mp fad n Fra dho . Holweide Vischering Str. horrem Sindorf 1 Weinsbergstr. Gürtel Stüttgenhof 8 Poll Salmstr. d pfa tst r. W Ba M Ju Rh Bf Deutz / DeutzKölnarena Kalker Bad Deutzer Freiheit u He Weiden Schulstr. platz Escher Str. Altonaer Platz 6 12 Longerich Friedhof Meerfeldstr./Gürtel Slabystr. Bayenhalgürtel Frechen Bahnhof Eifelplatz Chlodwigplatz Kloster Heinrich-Lübke-Ufer Euskirchener Str. Leuchterstr. r g ma swe en ttg Rö Königsforst 9 Melaten Wüllner-str. Os Au to th eim hn ba Ste e inw Köln Hbf g Po rze Bf Deutz / Messe r r llb llb De De . K-Deutz Dom/Hbf Christophstr. Düren g ift r./ M e Eu Clar Gürtel ter l A Brahmsstr. 3 Schaffrathsgasse 4 16 Buchheim Herfer Str./Gürtel Liebigstr. n Gürtel dio m Sta Hans-Böckler-Platz ru Oskar-Jägarie nt rf Bf West Friesenplatz Ze tr. / Gürtel K Geldernstr. Westfriedhof Mülheim Iltisstr. Severinstr. Nesselrodestr. Str. Wolffsohnstr. rin r St chst är e ilit pen nba Dürener Str./ Rodenkirchen Herthastr. Sülz Hermeskeller Platz Sülzgürtel 8 Porz Markt Gürtel Siegstr.S-Bahn Langenfeld LEV-Rheindorf 12 Merkenich 1 Nievenheim 3 LEV-Küppersteg Schiebusch LEV Mitte Bayerwerk K-Stammheim Bergisch Gladbach K-Dellbrück K-Holweide Duckterath 13 4 Dormagen Dormagen Bayerwek 4 Merkenich Mitte Fordwerke Nord Fordwerke Mitte Fordwerke Süd Geestemünder Str. Schönhauser Str. Mauritluskirche Buir Merzenich K Frankfurter Str. Bottensternstr. Amsterdamer Neusser Str. Mommsen-str. Takuplatz Platz K-Mülheim Zoo / Flora LenauAkazienweg K-Nippes Grünstr. u Ne Bocklemünd 17 Thielenbruch 18 19 Breslauer Platz / Hbf Koelnmesse Osthallen Wilhelm-Sollmann-Str. Pohligstr. Keupstr. K Hansaring K Ehrenfeld K-Müngersdorf / Technologiepark Venicer Str. Berrenrather Str. Maria Himmelfahrt Str. eg tr. Mollwitzstr. Lohsestr. Wichheimer Str./ Ulreporte Lindenburg Ubierring Eifelwall Haus Vorst Westhoven Gürtel Weißhausstr./ Mediapark Körnerstr./Gürtel n e s n e e n Aachener Str./Gürtel Leyendeckerstr. K-Lövenich Kalk Post K Trimbornstr. 9 Gottesweg Klettenbergpark Michaelshoven Rosenhügel Kalscheurer Weg 19 Sürth Efferen Zollstockgürtel Godorf Zündorf Kiebitzweg 7 Wesseling Nord Hürth-Hermülheim Zollstock Südfriedhof Wesseling Fischenich 12 Brühl-Vochem Wesseling Süd Brühl Nord Urfeld Brühl Mitte Brühl Süd Widdig Brühl-Badorf Uedorf Brühl-Schwadorf Hersel Walberberg Merten 18 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn 371 Sankt Augustin Ort . Gutenbergstr. Wiener Florastr./ Piusstr. Berliner Str. Stegerwaldsiedlung Ebertplatz Subbelrather Str. Frechen-Benzeirath K Airport Businesspark 7 se as M g len üh Fre e ch nR at u ha s nK he irc he K Steinstr. au nfo M be er Fr ch pe pp im rS e th rS ek nw en ba ück sthe he Ka ldae Ho ue ölne fra Kipp rank r öh Kalk Mer Fieh u e lk e m u B I L a H R F N F K K 1 Bensberg . 18 K-Longerich 9 Scheibenstr. Im Weidenbruch 16 Niehl Sebastianstr./ oh nk ein eid h Maarweg Gürtel Universitäts-str. Am Emberg K-Worringen K-Chorweiler Nord 6 15 K-Chorweiler Chorweiler 7 K Volkhovener Weg 8 Niehl Mülheim Berliner Str. Str. Moltke-str. Von-Sparr-Str. K-Buchforst Nußbaumerstr. 3 13 Mengenich Oflenhauerring 5 Ossendorf 15 e feld k üc M k üc rS s au up Ha tr. Dasselstr. Waldecker Str. sp ka se rst ie rg str en au ide lle tr. Gilgaustr.

AE.senats-hotel. 369. AE. north on Hohe sauna. Tatar (finely minced raw beef mixed with egg yolk. Cologne is not a city particularly known for its gourmet dining. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Gürzenichstrasse. V. a five-minute walk across the Rhine from the train station. Fax: 0221/ 206-2200. % 0221/20620. Unter Goldschmied 9–17. Kennedy-ufer 2A. Rates include buffet breakfast. modern style. Bathrooms are on the small side but vary according to the room.hotel-engelbertz. www. and steam room. Many have views of the Rhine and the cathedral on the other side. % 0180/523-1234 or 0221/ 828-1234. Local dishes at these and other nongourmet restaurants generally include Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese). Senats Hotel $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. To eat and drink as the Kölner do. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across Roncalliplatz and south on Unter Goldschmied). Hyatt Regency Köln $$ –$$$$ Deutz Located in MC. 50667 Köln. visit one of the city’s old tavernrestaurants (see listings for Früh am Dom and Bräuhaus Sion. The 305 rooms are comfortably large and stylishly furnished. www. later in this section). Fax: 0221/ 257-8924. Rather. See map p. Bathrooms have deep tubs with showers. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. MC. stylish hotel with its bright-yellow lobby is located in the heart of the Altstadt. 50679 Köln-Deutz. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across the bridge). and spices and served on bread or a roll). Hämchen (cured pork knuckle cooked in vegetable broth). Rates: 100€ ($125) double. Fax: 0221/828-1370. MC. this modern full-service hotel features a dramatic lobby with a waterfall and a glamorous overall ambience. DC. Rates: 120€–245€ ($150– $306). AE. 369. Kölsch Kaviar (smoked blood sausage served with raw onion rings). onions. The hotel has a nice ambience throughout. The furnishings in the 59 rooms have a comfortable. Rates include breakfast. it’s a place for conversation and drinking. Himmel und Äd (apples and . Obenmarspforten 1–3. V. and east on Obenmarspforten). See map p. 50667 Köln. Matjesfilet mit grünen Bohnen (pickled white herring served with green butter beans and potatoes).regency. generally over enormous portions of typical Rhineland fare in crowded restaurants that are gemütlich (cozy) rather than elegant. The Hyatt has fine restaurants and a fitness center with a pool. V. Rates: 160€–375€ ($200–$469) double. Dining in Cologne Although several highly rated restaurants have established themselves here in recent years.372 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. % 0221/257-8994.

Reservations recommended. and potato dumplings. Kölsch has an alcohol content of about 3 percent (most other types of German beer have an alcohol content ranging from 4 percent to 6 percent). See map p. Fischmarkt 1–3. You may start with escargots. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This popular wine restaurant (and hotel. raisins. you’ll probably like Kölsch (koehlsch).m. 369. See map p. and Speckpfannekuchen (pancakes fried in smoked bacon fat). Bockwurst (sausage) with potato salad. Open: Daily 11 a. Main courses 9€–16€ ($11–$20). The Bräuhaus also has a few rooms upstairs that it rents out. Fish main courses include roasted pikeperch on lentils with balsamic vinegar and salmon poached in Rhine wine. which they bring to your table in a special carrier called a Kölschkranz.m. and the food portions inexpensive and generous. MC. 369. Unter Taschenmacher 5. If you go to any of the taverns in town. The waiters always serve the beer in a tall. No credit cards.or oven-roasted marinated beef) with an almond-raisin sauce. AE. V. a double with bathroom and breakfast goes for 60€ ($ 75). or sauerbraten (pot. you can order a Kölsch from one of the blue-aproned waiters. called a Köbes. or stuffed mushrooms. A Rhineland meat specialty is sauerbraten with almonds. . called a Stangen. see “Staying in Cologne” earlier in this chapter) opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine. Sion is the place.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 373 potatoes boiled and mashed together and served with fried blood sausage). Although the wine is the main reason for coming (the local Rhine wines are that special). % 0221/257-8540. just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt).–11 p. the cuisine also is very good. topfermented beer that’s brewed only in Cologne. and north on Unter Taschenmacher). The main courses are traditional and filling Rhineland fare. a dry. the wood paneling a little smoky with time and frequent polishing. west on Mühlengasse.50€–23€ ($12–$28). Main courses: 9. Bräuhaus Sion $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN If you want a traditional local Bräuhaus where the beer is good. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north along the Rhine promenade. marinated herring.50€ ($2) for a small glass of Kölsch on tap. % 0221/272-7777. Closed Dec 22–Jan 10. Expect to pay about 1. delicious. thin glass. such as Riesenhämchen (boiled pigs’ knuckles) with sauerkraut.m. Kölsch: Cologne’s beer of choice Even if you don’t like beer. Open: Daily noon to 11:30 p. The menu also includes vegetarian and pasta dishes.

% 0221/270-3402. DC. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price business lunch: 30€–38€ ($37–$47). a Cologne specialty of smoked pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and potato purée. Hanse Stube $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH One of Cologne’s top gourmet restaurants. how about strawberries with cappuccino-chocolate sauce? The wine list is exemplary. on a narrow street set back from the Rhine. and 6:30–10:30 p. See map p. MC. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. For dessert. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and across Roncalliplatz to Am Hof). Fixed-price menus: 72€–79€ ($90–$99). iced melon risotto with shrimp skewer. to midnight. The menu is in English. In summer. Reservations recommended. Sat–Sun 11 a. to midnight.374 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Früh am Dom $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN This Bräuhaus is the best all-around for atmosphere.m. AE. Open: 8 a. You can eat in the upstairs or downstairs dining rooms (upstairs. 369. A step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered facade. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). elegant surroundings. it dates from 1626. has a 1. Tasty main courses include basil risotto. Salzgasse 13. A favorite dish is Hämchen. Früh-Kölsch. MC.m. economy. the tavern’s beer on tap. and leg of venison with a cognac-thyme sauce. to midnight. Main courses: 9€–17€ ($11–$21). and hearty portions. % 0221/261-3250. No credit cards. stuffed kohlrabi with truffle.m. with a different German specialty offered every day of the week. Fri 3 p. Hanse Stube offers excellent cuisine and service in quiet. is better). Am Hof 12–14. 369. You may try the pork cutlet with fried onions and crispy roast potatoes or the land-and-sea platter with roast beef and several kinds of fish.000-year-old brewing tradition. See map p. . this tavern also has a beer garden. AE. The restaurant serves many Rhineland specialties and dishes influenced by French cuisine. Sünner im Walfisch $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/FRENCH This Bräuhaus.50€–19€ ($12–$24). V. DC.m. on the ground floor. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. is a good choice for atmospheric dining. Domplatz. Open: Mon–Thurs 5 p. The menu changes daily but may include crayfish and avocado salad or grilled scallops for starters. See map p. Main courses: 9. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Salzgasse). V. to midnight. 369. % 0221/257-7879.m. Other specialties include Sauerkrautsuppe (sauerkraut soup) and Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings).m. Main courses: 14€–30€ ($17–$37).

More than 600 years elapsed from the laying of the cornerstone in 1248 to the placement of the last finial (a decorative element) on the south tower in 1880. Consecrated in 1322. DC. Reservations recommended for dinner. AE. the choir contains original. seared monkfish with green mango salad. the largest cathedral in northern Europe. the cathedral . richly carved oak stalls. or more ambitious dishes such as sweet-and-sour prawn soup with baked pineapple. Upon completion. its twin filigreed spires rising to a height of 157m (515 ft. The Cologne Welcome Card. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). available from the tourist office. A one-day card costs 9€ ($11). which can be visited only on guided tours. is the cathedral’s major treasure. The food is good. a beef filet salad. and 6–10 p. The restaurant’s striking design includes a serpentine fish tank built into the floor. Exploring Cologne You find the cathedral and all the major museums in the Innenstadt. Domplatz. is the most important part of the cathedral. See map p. the service highly professional. Fixed-price dinner menus: 49€–69€ ($61–$86). or curry with beef filet. round off your visit with an evening stroll along the Rhine promenade in Deutz. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. it’s a wonder that the Gothic facade is stylistically coherent. The famous Three Kings windows in the clerestory (the area above the nave) were installed in the early 14th century. and a one-day family/group card good for two adults and two children or three adults costs 18€ ($22). MC.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Taku $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt JAPANESE/ASIAN 375 Taku. is good for travel on all forms of public transportation and gets you into most museums for free or at a reduced cost. and a series of statues made in the cathedral workshop between 1270 and 1290. a twoday card costs 14€ ($17). the Asian restaurant in the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. the roughly half-square-mile area of the original Roman colony.m. housed in a glass case at the end of the choir. V. Main courses: 23€–37€ ($29–$46). screen paintings. is a serenely comfortable spot to enjoy sea-fresh sushi and sashimi. The giant reliquary is a masterpiece of goldsmith work dating from the end of the 12th century. the Cologne cathedral was the tallest building in the world. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. 369. Overwhelming is the simplest way to describe it.m. % 0221/270-3910.). In addition to some magnificent Renaissance-era stained-glass windows in the north aisle. The Dreikönigschrein (Shrine of the Three Magi). The choir. Dom (Cathedral) Considering how much time passed during the building of this gigantic edifice. After a day of sightseeing.

U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (you see the cathedral as you come out of the train station).m. You get a great view of the cathedral and the river traffic along the Rhine. 2. hanging in a chapel on the north side of the choir. If.m... Riehler Strasse 180. Adoration of the Magi. See map p.m.25) children and students. Tours: English-language tours Mon–Sat 11 a. On the ground floor and mezzanine.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the Dom on Unter Fettenhenn to An der Rechtsschule). Kölner Seilbahn (Cologne Cable Car) You get the best panoramic view of the city of Cologne by taking the Kölner Seilbahn.75) children. and you aren’t missing much if you skip it. exclusively from the 20th century. Open: Tues–Sun 11 a. Admission: 4. Open: Cathedral daily 6 a.–5 p. created around 1445.m. treasury daily 10 a. German architect Mies van der Rohe. (winter until dusk). The trip takes about 15 minutes each way. In operation since 1957. Admission: Round-trip ticket 5.–7:30 p.10) children and students.– 6 p.m. you’re in reasonably good shape.25) children 6–12. on the other hand. The Gero Cross. You can make a circuit of the interior in about half an hour. among others.20€ ($5. See map p. Open: Apr–Oct daily 10 a. 369. % 0221/547-4184. 2. include rooms and furniture by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. is a rare monumental sculpture carved in Cologne in the late tenth century and reputedly the oldest-existing large-scale crucifix in the Western world. Peter) for an inspiring view of the city and the Rhine..50€ ($3. 369.–6 p. 3€ ($3. . Flemish in the precision of its execution.–5 p. Domkloster. An der Rechtsschule. % 0221/221-23860. the enclosed gondolas cross the river beside the Zoobrücke (Zoo Bridge) between the Rheinpark in Deutz and the zoo.m. and handicrafts from the Middle Ages to the present day. The painting is a masterpiece of the Cologne school — Italian in format. Sun 2 and 3:30 p.376 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany really has only two other must-see treasures.25) adults. and 12:30. tower daily 9 a.90) adults.m. and 3:30 p. the guided tours last one hour. See map p. tour cost: 4€ ($5) adults. The cathedral’s Schatzkammer (Treasury) is rather disappointing.50) adults. U-Bahn: Zoo/Flora (then a 2-minute walk south to the departure point on the west side of the river).m. tower alone 2€ ($2.m. The Art Nouveau room is particularly impressive. 2€ ($2. the first and only cable-car system in Europe designed to span a major river. treasury and tower combined 5€ ($6. 2. and the American designer Charles Eames. On the south side of the choir is Stephan Lochner’s altarpiece. % 0221/9258-4730. 1€ ($1.25) adults. 369.m. Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) The treasures on display in this museum include furniture.60€ ($3. the exhibits. Admission: Cathedral free.50€ ($6. Give yourself about an hour to see everything.50) children and students. home décor.m.m. you can climb the 509 stairs of the 14th-century south tower (entry through the Portal of St.

on the right side of the museum is Hafenstrasse. 50. it is the largest antique tomb ever found north of the Alps. opened in 1986. See map p. The exhibits explore themes or types: religious life. The Agfa-Foto-Historama.D. trade and industry. the cult of the dead. you find an ancient black-andwhite mosaic floor covered with swastikas. you can see a superlative collection of Roman glassware and a world-renowned collection of Roman jewelry. Julius Caesar had extended the borders of the Roman Empire as far as the Rhine and established an alliance with the Germanic Ubii tribe on the site of presentday Cologne.D. Give yourself at least an hour. produced in a Rhineland workshop in the third century and discovered in 1941 by workers digging an air-raid shelter. Museum Ludwig This museum. On the lowest level. On the second floor. is the tomb of Lucius Poblicius.m.D. Admission: 7.C. which extols the joys of good living. devoted to the daily life of the Romans.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 377 The Roman city of Colonia By 50 B. 40 for a Roman officer. Before you enter. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and east on Roncalliplatz). Cologne’s Roman period lasted until A. a museum within the museum. the swastika — probably Indian in origin — was a symbol of good luck and happiness. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.50€ ($7) children and students. Portions of an original Roman wall still stand beneath Domplatz in the underground parking lot. You need at least an hour to browse through the entire museum. is devoted to the history of photography.. Centuries before the symbol became ominously identified with the atrocities of the Third Reich. which once ran down to the Roman harbor. dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art. The museum covers the period that extends from the Stone Age to the period of Charlemagne (9th century). The Roman-Germanic Museum was built around the magnificent Dionysius mosaic. look at the section of the Roman North Gate preserved on Domplatz in front of the cathedral. 369. and was known in Latin as the crux gamata. and so on.50) adults. % 0221/221-22379. is inextricably bound with the history of Rome — a legacy that is documented in this fascinating museum. Towering over the mosaic.50€ ($9.–6 p. Exhibits represent nearly every major artist and art movement of the 20th century. more if you love modern art. 401. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. constructed around A. The area became a military garrison with an imperial shrine and eventually was granted rights as a Roman city called Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (CCAA) in A. . a street paved with its original stones. 5. and the fabric of the city today.m. when the Roman legions were recalled from the Rhine frontier. Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) Cologne’s history.

which becomes Cäcilienstrasse).30€ ($4) students and children. .45€ ($8) adults. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Unter Käster to Martinstrasse). Cäcilienstrasse 29. around the back. the museum also is one of Germany’s oldest.20€ ($4) adults.m.. Admission: 3. Open: Tues 10 a. this oddly engaging work is by the Zurich graffiti artist Harald Nägele. Schnütgen Museum The Romanesque church of St. 3. and sculpture on display give you an idea of the artistic blessings bestowed upon “Holy Cologne. A memorable collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings holds pride of place on the second floor. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. In 2000.–8 p.m. Cäcilien (St. splendid sampling of sacred art from the early Middle Ages to the baroque.80€ ($7. the museum moved to a new building designed by Cologne architect Oswald Mathias Ungers.–5 p. with major pieces by the German Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich. crucifixes. Give yourself about two hours if you want to browse through all the galleries.m. Admission: 6. U-Bahn: Neumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Pipinstrasse. 3.–5 p.m. reliquaries. % 0221/221-21119. patron saint of music) houses one of Cologne’s finest art collections.m.. Ursula in particular. % 0221/221-22304.m. Wallraf-Richartz Museum The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is one of the country’s greatest repositories of art from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century. The relics. a skeleton has been spray-painted on the walled-in western portal of the church. Auguste Renoir. See map p. Called simply Tod (Death).–5 p. among scores of others.m. Roncalliplatz 4.– 6 p.25) adults. 369. On the first floor. 1.95€ ($5) children. In addition to important French and Spanish works. Many of the paintings and altarpieces depict legends from the lives of martyred saints who became identified with the “Holy Cologne” of the Middle Ages — St. and Vincent van Gogh. Admission: 5. 369. Opened in 1861. See map p. Edvard Munch. Try not to miss this small.50) children.m. Sat–Sun 11 a.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk south past the cathedral to Roncalliplatz).378 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. Martinstrasse 39. Wed–Fri 10 a. 369. Sat–Sun 11 a.90€ ($2.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Here you find Rubens’s Self-Portrait Amidst the Circle of Friends from Mantua and an enigmatic self-portrait by Rembrandt.” Outside.–6 p. The new museum nicely shows off the art but somehow feels like an office building from the 1950s. the museum boasts a rich collection of 19th-century paintings. % 0221/221-22310. The Renaissance section includes works by Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach.m.. Cecilia. Gustave Courbet. you find an outstanding collection of paintings by the medieval Cologne school (most done between 1330 and 1550).m.

sells the orange-and-lavender-scented water first developed in Cologne in 1709 by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina. carries a huge selection of umbrellas. Apostelnstrasse 21 (% 0221/257-0108).” or simply “cologne. the main north–south street in Roman times. Ehrenstrasse 104. Hohe Strasse. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Walter König’s Postkartenlade.50€/$2) at newsstands). and even as premoistened towelettes. you find all the major international designer-clothing boutiques. jammed every day except Sunday with shoppers. organ grinders. next to the cathedral (% 0221/2801. fine jewelry. . stores selling silver. On Hohe Strasse and its surrounding streets. is now Cologne’s busiest commercial drag. 4711.koelnticket. another early producer of Kölnisch Wasser. 4711 Any kind of toilet water is now called “eau de Cologne. and Italian designer shoes. and endless stores. snack shops. sells unusually decorated and comfortable felt slippers and those enormous Überpantoffeln you slip over your shoes and slide around in when touring German palaces. fruit sellers. and French. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). Glockengasse 4711 (% 0221/925-0450. The street number eventually became the trademark name for their product.25).” but Echt Kölnisch Wasser (the original eau de Cologne) remains the official designation of origin for the distinctive toilet waters created in the city of Cologne. also lived and worked in this house at no. stocks a large selection of art postcards and greeting cards. Shopping in Cologne The first Füssgänger (pedestrians-only) shopping zones in Germany originated in Cologne and present a seemingly endless and interconnected conglomeration of shops and shopping arcades. and the big department stores. Cologne offers a variety of fine arts and nightlife options. Breite Strasse 93. 4711 Haus. German. Roncalliplatz 4. pick up a copy of Monats Vorschau (1. You can buy 4711 cologne in all sizes and shapes. To find out what’s going on in the city. Discovering nightlife in Cologne One of Germany’s major cultural centers. and perfumeries. www. fine leather bags and purses. You can purchase tickets at a venue’s box office (Kasse) or at Köln MusikTicket. The Mühlens family. and Filz Gnoss. The smallest bottle costs about 5€ ($6. as soap. Schildergasse is where you find international men’s fashions.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 379 Cologne from Cologne: No. Three specialty shops worth knowing about: Schirmbusch.

Stephansstrasse 4 (% 0221/238-730. Live bands and DJs play for dancers at MTC. Zulpicher Strasse 10 (% 0221/170-2764. to 2 or 3 a.m. is the site of three theaters.m. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/22128400. Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal.m. Quo Vadis Pub. Friday and Saturday from 9 a. when the music begins at 3:30 p. The bar is open daily from noon to midnight during the week and from 11 a. is the home of two fine orchestras: the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra). Dance clubs E-Werk. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). is near Marienplatz at Pipinstrasse 7 (% 0221/258-1414. Alter Markt 50–52 (% 0221/258-2132. U-Bahn: Neumarkt).m.m. with a cover of 4€ to 10€ ($5–$13). to 1 a. a gay leather bar in the Marienplatz area.m. on the weekend. The hall also presents pop and jazz programs. U-Bahn: Neumarkt).koelner-philharmonie.m. to 3 a. U-Bahn: Zulpicherplatz).m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Apostelnstrasse 11 (% 0221/254-433. anywhere from 8€ to 80€ ($10–$100). open from 10 p. www. Jazz clubs Klimperkasten (also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon). E-Werk is open every Friday and Saturday night at 10 p. Dance programs also take place here. according to the event.m. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). a good gay bar for men and is a combination disco–concert hall housed within a former electrical power plant. Schanzenstrasse 28 (% 0221/962-790.buehnenkoeln. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1 (% 0221/2801. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/8400. The Schauspielhaus.m. U-Bahn: Keupstrasse). is open from 10 p. Gay and lesbian bars Chains. Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera).m. completed in the late The most sophisticated rendezvous for gays and lesbians in Cologne is Gloria.380 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Performing arts The Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. open Sunday to Thursday from 9 a. Tickets range from 11€ to 100€ ($14–$125).m. each with its own performances and schedules. www. and . is a small and intimate jazz and piano bar with live music every night beginning around 8 p. Buttermarkt 37 (% 0221/257-7931. Ticket prices vary. is the Rhineland’s leading opera house. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). U-Bahn: Heumarkt). U-Bahn: Heumarkt). Recorded music alternates with live acts. to 3 a.. is best on Sunday. to 1 a.

The KD ticket booth and boarding point is right on the river.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 381 Cruises along the Rhine Cologne is a major embarkation point for Rhine cruises. Frankenwerft 15 (% 0221/208-8318. with German dishes. the cost is 9. KD (Köln–Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt). The one-hour Panorama Rundfahrt (round-trip) is a pleasant way to see the stretch of Rhine immediately around Cologne. The tour departs daily at 10:30 a.m. or visit the company’s Web site at www. serves its Kölsch brand of beer. you can enjoy a trip on the river aboard one of the many local to 2 a. The round-trip cost is 46€ ($57). The tavern is open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to midnight. and 6 p.m.m. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. to midnight. Even if you don’t have time for a long Rhine cruise. and 8:20 p. www.m.. The tavern is open daily from 10 a. The club doesn’t charge a cover. lasts until 1 a. Taverns Päffgen Bräuhaus.. and returning at 7:20 p. Altstadt Päffgen. and returns at 5:45 p. For more information on Rhine River cruises.m. Kölsch. take one of KD’s daylong cruises between Mainz and Koblenz.m. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). The Mosel Valley: Great Wines. Winding through the steep slopes of the Eifel and . along with regional cuisine.k-d. Heumarkt 62 (% 0221/257-7765. offers boat tours of the Rhine from Cologne. is a scenic winegrowing region like the nearby Rheingau (see the “Sampling the wines of Rheingau” sidebar in this chapter). Prerecorded commentary in English plays on both of these sightseeing cruises. a 110-year-old tavern. U-Bahn: Friesenplatz).m. A daily Nachmittags (afternoon) cruise with Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) leaves at 3:30 p.m..80€ ($12).m. Purchase. 2500 Westchester Ave.m.m. rivercruises. The club is also open for live jazz Monday to Saturday from 7 2 p. The cost is 6. noon. Seating is available indoors and out. represented in North America by JFO Cruise Service. If you want to see the most scenic stretch of the Rhine. departing Mainz daily at 8:45 a.50). Friesenstrasse 64–66 (% 0221/135-461.m. NY 10577 (% 800/346-6525). Beautiful Scenery The Mosel Valley.m. southwest of Cologne. a short walk south from the cathedral. with the legendary Lorelei rock and many hilltop castles.80€ ($8. and 9:45 a.. also serves the local beer.

to 1 p.m. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week).m..k-d. begins the first week of June. the Mosel Valley follows the course of the Mosel River (spelled Moselle in English) for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz.m. 51km (32 miles) southwest of Koblenz. For information. Its beautiful scenery.m.m. a medieval riverside town surrounded by vineyards. to 5 p. is open daily mid-March to November 9 a. Cochem is a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals.m.50) for adults and 2.50€ ($5. contact the Cochem tourist information office. a restored 11th-century castle at the top of the hill behind the town. to 6 p. the easiest way is to take a train to Koblenz. You can also reach Cochem by train from either of those cities. (See “The Mosel Valley” map in this chapter.50€ ($3) for children and students. to noon. Endertplatz 1 (% 0267/60040. to 5 p.cochem. and arrive in Cochem at 3 p. Cochem’s biggest attraction is Reichsburg Cochem (% 02671/255). and Sunday in July and August from 9 a. A return boat departs at 3:40 p.m. Cochem is your best choice for an overnight stopover between Koblenz and Trier. arriving in Koblenz at 8 p.. the prettier A53 runs alongside the Mosel between Zell and Schweich. Monday through Thursday 9 a. April through October.382 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hunsruck hills in the German state of Rheinland-Palatinate.m.m. Stopping in Cochem About halfway down the Mosel River from Koblenz is Cochem. fine wine. to 6 sails down the Mosel to Cochem. From there.m.m. If you’re driving through the Mosel Valley. From late April to late October. www. Roman ruins.m. Admission is 4. The A49 Autobahn runs between Koblenz and Trier. where the waters flow into the Rhine. The similar Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. www. Monday through Friday 9 and 2 to 5 p. The castle.m. Touring the valley by boat or car If you’re headquartering in Cologne and want to enjoy a boat cruise down the Mosel River. The round-trip fare is 22€ ($28).m. a full 10 percent of the national total.m.) The valley encompasses thousands of acres of vineyards. . the most famous and photographed sight along the Mosel River. The office also is open Saturday from May through August from 9 a. boats depart daily from Koblenz at 9:45 a. and Friday 9 a. The tourist information office.m. celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. is open November through March. a boat operated by KD (% 0221/20881. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and halftimbered houses make the Mosel Valley a prime area for exploration. medieval castles.

1.m. For a fine meal. A creaking wooden staircase (you can also take the elevator) leads to most of the 35 rooms. The restaurant is open daily from noon to 2 p. Alte Thorschenke. drive to Enterttal. and kept warm at your table with a hot stone. baked. All major credit cards are accepted.m. . Endertstrasse 1 (% 02671/8955).Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 383 The Mosel Valley A61 Nürburg E RM Cologne 410 E31 AN Y Mendig Mayen Koblenz A48 E44 Berlin A1 G Area of Detail Gerolstein 410 Kelburg Daun A48 E44 Lahnstein Kaiseresch Burg Eltz Alken 49 Boppard Ulmen 257 Mosel Moselkern 327 A61 Cochem A1 49 Meisburg Beilstein Senheim Bullay E31 Alf Marienburg A60 53 Wittlich Bitburg 51 Zell Traben-Trarbach Simmern M osel Bernkastel-Kues 269 421 Gemünden XEM– EM URG RG E44 327 Morbach 269 0 10 mi Kirn 0 10 km 41 N Trier A1 Idar-Oberstein 270 41 420 Both a hotel and a wine restaurant. all contain shower-tub combinations. and Visa are accepted. originally built in 1332. Diners Club. 56812 Cochem (% 02671/7059. and dine at Weissmühle im Enterttal. Rack rates range from 77€ to 115€ ($96–$144) for a double. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel.6km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem. A few of the rooms have four-poster beds. MasterCard. Brückenstrasse 3. Main courses range from 15€ to 25€ ($19–$31). fax: 02671/4202). The half-timbered structure. buffet breakfast included. Try the trademark dish of fresh trout stuffed with herbs. and 6 to 9 p. added a modern wing and became a hotel in 1960.

fig. . you sail through this scenic winegrowing region. is like a northern extension of Italy. traditions. and other fruit trees and its sheltered sunny slopes covered with vineyards. This part of the Rhineland not only turns out fine wines but has been fundamentally formed by the culture of wine. get plenty of sunshine and comparatively little rain. The Rheingau wine district (see “The Rhineland” map p. conditions the Romans recognized as perfect for grape-growing. If you’re driving. with its almond. If you take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz (see the “Cruises along the Rhine” sidebar in this chapter). as reflected in its economy.384 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Sampling the wines of Rheingau The Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. The Rheingau wine grapes produce a delicately fruity wine with a full aroma. the Rheingau’s unofficial capital. and festivals. The wind-sheltered southern slopes of the Taunus range. on the river’s northern bank. 367) follows a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine west of Wiesbaden to the attractive Rhine-side town of Bingen. cherry. Eighty percent of this wine comes from the Riesling grape. the B42 highway runs beside the river between Boppard and Eltville. Vineyards have produced wine here since Roman times. and wine fans consider Rheingau Rieslings to be among the best white wines made anywhere.

and including the tallest building in Europe). nearly 450 banks maintained headquarters here. (See the “Frankfurt am Main” map in this chapter.Chapter 20 Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Frankfurt ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Strolling through the Altstadt ᮣ Discovering Apfelwein.000 American soldiers were stationed in Frankfurt until 1990. a small portion of Frankfurt’s Altstadt (Old Town) was lovingly rebuilt. many travelers get their first introduction to Germany in this city. Besides being a muchvisited business center. But Frankfurt is first and foremost a modern. home of the Bundesbank. Leveled during Allied bombing raids in World War II (WWII). Nearly 40. The huge symbol that stands on Willy-Brandt-Platz in front of the new opera house can be regarded as the city’s logo. A very strong American presence exists in this city on the Main. Germany’s central bank. and a lively nightlife. the most important meeting place in the world for the acquisition and sale of book rights and translations.) Frankfurt has been a major banking city since the Rothschilds opened their first bank here more than 200 years ago. and more L ocated on the River Main. Because the Frankfurt airport serves as the country’s main international hub. Today. Frankfurt is the financial center not only of Germany but also of the entire European Union (EU). Frankfurt definitely focuses on business. cosmopolitan city. Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city. At last count. The best known is the International Book Fair. the city is a tourist destination with fine museums and art collections. and the Central Bank of the EU. great shopping. . and sometimes called “Mainhattan” because of its skyscraper-studded skyline. a rich cultural life. a fact that helps account for all those designer skyscrapers (more than in any other German city. cabaret. Millions of visitors descend on the city during its trade shows in spring and autumn.

Lei Fa pzi üc lk B re m g er e anlag Schumannstr. HAUPTWACHE hst oc U Börse Gr. Freidb nFurste rstr. we ize rP l. ers Str. Beethove nstr. ke st r a l l ee ss e ra Grüneburgweg Siesn Feld bur gstr. berge st angg Wo l f Gr ün ebu rg w eg urgstr. nstr. fenstr Gärtnerweg ESCHENHEIMER TOR Rothschild’s Rothschild Park Alte Oper An l . Zeil TAUNUSANLANGE U J 7 u n g hof An der Hauptwache Ne ue MESSE W Güterplatz Goetheplatz 8 9 9 Str. ayer st Stau . University enberg nstr. Senck Linde B o c k e nh e i m er lsso nde Me dts tr. U 5 6 2 Guiollett str. Ma inz Str./ADICKESALLEE Berlin M i q u e l a ll e e U A di e c k e s A l le ene Eyss Ha nsa GERMANY ckst Frankfurt am Main Munich C ro n ste tten str. Fri ed se ras Sc 14 e U en sb rü ck SCHWEIZERPLATZ . Ar n HAUPTBAHNHOF in Ma ze a rL nd . BH ocke nhe imer str. r. 4 r. U Kais er chen Mun tr. ner erli bach B r au 10 12 11 es ten ds tra sse er Un te r ma inb r. ss Willy-BrandtPlatz U THEATERPLATZ i s tr. ka i ai n MUSEUMSUFER Sch s Leu ch ne r te 17 16 Un rm M ha GUTLEUTVIERTEL t t s leu ai nk ai um 15 n ai B 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters 13 U N Ke i Information S-Bahn U-Bahn Station Güterbahnhof Oppenheim nn ed ya lle e Gu t er Fran z St HOLZHAUSENSTRASSE r. Wolfg angst tra sse U Ba us GRÜNEBURGWEG 1 WESTEND Bock enh ei m er L and 3 str a ss e r. str nu Tau tr. s se All ee U Mique l e alle er S tra GRÜNEBURG PARK Holzh rass e ausen str.386 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankfurt am Main Hamburg MIQ. R r.

Rit te r gasse SACHSENHAUSEN Da rm s t ä d ter Landstrass e W en ai i Oste ndst rasse ra sse n So Oskar-v. ss e DINING eg Exedra 25 Haus Wertheym 12 Konditoriei Hollhorst 11 Main Tower Restaurant & Bar 7 Restaurant Français 9 Tiger Restaurant. p k ar str as se Anla Floberb rücke ge erm Ob n a n lage ds t ainbr. and Tiger-Bistrot 24 Weinhaus Brückenkeller 23 Deutsches Architektur Museum 16 Deutsches Filmmuseum 17 Eschenheimer Tor 6 Eschenheimer Turm 6 Goethe-Haus S tralenberge 8 r str. Heinrich-HoffmanMuseum 3 Historisches Museum 10 Kaiserdom 20 Liebieghaus 14 Main Tower 7 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 18 Museum für Moderne Kunst 21 Römer and Römerberg 22 Städelsches Kunstinstitut/ Städtische Galerie 15 Struwwelpeter-Museum 19 Os t L a n d s t r a ss e U Hö he MARIANPLATZ W ald sc n Ha rg A lle e bs bu rg er Landwehr Al W Ha bs bu r he ac e sb Alle e t it lee Bu rg .-Miller Str. Palastbar. a W S Gr. ch ild Al GLAUBERGSTRASSE lee rg L a n d strasse al ee Se b ck ac he BORNHEIM MITTE U rs be l Saa HÖHENSTRASSE U Bornheimer Gü BORNHEIM lbu he nt d b e rger Bu s rg tr. Zoo rte n Rö db urg w. Parad iesga Se eh o sse de ls w . as Ro ths rL d an str as se ACCOMMODATIONS M Der Messe 2 An Hilton Frankfurt 5 Hotel am Dom 26 Hotel Robert Mayer 1 Hotelschiff Peter Schlott 13 str er rg Bu Mozart 4 Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof 9 se rtm an -Ib ac hs tr. ann OSTHAFEN ATTRACTIONS Deutsch herr nufe Main r fs tra G erb ermühl str. str Bethmann’s Bethmann Park Se Fr OSTEND all ee rg hm er idts t r. Obermainkai nem str.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 387 Nib U ADICKES/ NIBELUNGENALLE elun E c k enh ei m gen Alle e Ha NORDEND U Neuh ofstr./ ALTE GASSE U ie ile db r erg 25 stra er sse KONSTABLERWACHE 24 RathenauU Zeil platz Am T ie Lan r ga A LT S TA D T RÖMER 21 U B a tto n n stra sse se s t ra s 19 20 22 Ma i n K a i EisernerSteg ckWe r k t ma 26 Schöne Au ssicht 23 Oberm 18 Sach s e n h ä u s e r U fer olb rK lte tr. Fri e MUSTERSCHULE U E sc he n m hei er VILBELER S.

These two S-Bahn lines take you to Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) in about ten and Washington. Tickets are available from the RMV ticket machines (with English translations) at the regional station and at the Deutsche Bahn (DB) Travel Center. Philadelphia.25). Regional and local trains operate from the Regional Station directly below Terminal 1. and several carrental offices. Some airlines offer special shuttle-bus services to Frankfurt from the airport. Hopping a bus into the city If you want to travel to the city center by bus. A people-mover system (called Sky Line) links the two airport terminals. They are marked: Einzelfahrt Frankfurt (single ticket to Frankfurt) and Tageskarte Frankfurt inkl. Dresdner Bank. Detroit. rail lines.C. A one-way ticket costs 5€ ($6. and Finanz Bank) with currency exchange windows. open daily from 6 a. Platform 1. Flughafen (a reduced-price one-day transportation ticket within Frankfurt. this airport serves more than 110 countries worldwide. Terminal 2 handles international flights. The long-distance AIRail Terminal links the airport to cities throughout Germany and neighboring countries. Montreal. SEB Bank. in which you find many banks (Commerz Bank. Terminal 1 handles most European flights. Pittsburgh. Denver. www. Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (% 069/6901. New York. You find bus stops in front of Terminal 1 on the arrivals level and in front of Terminal 2 on Level 2. S8 and S9 trains (direction Offenbach or Hanau) to Frankfurt’s city center depart about every ten minutes from the regional train station. Level 0 (% 069/691-844). If you fly into Germany from outside of Europe. you have many options from which to choose. lies 11km (7 miles) from the city center. check when you purchase your ticket.S. frankfurt-airport.m. Privately operated currency exchanges (Travelex is one) and ATMs are also there. and air corridors lead to Frankfurt. Taking the train into the city The simplest method for getting into the city from the airport is by train.m.388 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting There All roads. including Atlanta. to 11:30 p. a bus terminal. Chicago. D. (RMV are the initials of the public transportation authority. Toronto. Portland (Oregon). chances are you’ll land at the city’s airport.) The RMV ticket machines have special fast-selection buttons for the S-Bahn journey to Frankfurt. and Canadian cities. Miami. Dallas. with direct flights from many U. Terminal 1. Boston. including the trip from the airport). . Newark. Europe’s busiest airport and Germany’s major international gateway. By plane The city’s airport. The airport has two railway stations.

m.m..10). www. to 6 p. opposite the main entrance of the train station (% 069/2123-8800. including schedules and fares. de). By car The A3 and A5 autobahns intersect near Frankfurt’s airport. This office offers a hotel-booking service for 2. modern Frankfurt Messe (trade-fair convention center) is considered part of the Westend. For travel information. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. The huge. Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt The River Main divides Frankfurt. restaurants.m. and Bonn and continues east and south to Würzburg. Taxis are available in front of the terminals. By train Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof is the busiest train station in Europe. to 9 p. It was the only part of Frankfurt that was not destroyed during the WWII Allied bombing of the city. and nightlife. with connections to all major German and European cities. to 5:30 p.m. www. . to 6 p. You find most of the historic sights and several museums in the Altstadt on the north bank.bahn. The Altstadt contains an even older section referred to as the Innenstadt.m.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 389 Catching a cab into the city A taxi ride from the airport to the city center costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 20 minutes. Römerberg 27 (% 069/2123-8800). Finding Information After You Arrive You find tourist information in two locations: ߜ Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. is open Monday to Friday from 8 a. The A3 comes in from the Netherlands. in the Altstadt. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. to 9 p. opposite the main entrance (% 069/2123-8800). call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. The A5 comes from the northeast (Hannover) and continues south to Heidelberg and Basel. The exclusive Westend district. west of the Altstadt.m. Saturday and Sunday 9 the A60 connects with the A66. Switzerland. to 4 p. Tourist Information Hauptbahnhof. From the west. Nürnberg. Concentrated in the city center around the Altstadt are hotels..m. Cologne.m.m. is a residential and embassy quarter. which leads to Frankfurt.50€ ($3.. and Munich. is open Monday to Friday 8 a. or Inner City. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a. ߜ Tourist Information Römer. You find currency-exchange windows and bank ATMs in the station.m.m.

costs 4. Sachsenhausen. and half-price admission to many of the city’s museums. some of them housed in former riverside villas. If you’re caught traveling without the proper ticket. As you walk out of the station. administered by the RMV (Rhein-Main Verkehrsverbund. with its opera house. Two special tickets help you save money on public transportation in Frankfurt: ߜ A 24-hour ticket (Tageskarte). you can easily get everywhere. you may be fined 30€ ($37) on the spot.