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by Donald Olson

Germany For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http:// Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. . All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2007925980 ISBN: 978-0-470-08956-9 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the Author
Novelist, playwright, and travel writer Donald Olson is the author of the award-winning England For Dummies, London For Dummies, Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London, and Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria. Under the pen name Swan Adamson he has written the novels My Three Husbands — now translated into four languages — and Confessions of a Pregnant Princess (both published by Kensington, New York), as well as Memoirs Are Made of This (Hodder Headline, London). Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, National Geographic Books, and many other publications.

To Gary Larson, with thanks for his help in Germany and with life in general.

Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank RailEurope for its generous assistance.

Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Lindsay Conner, Production Editor; Amy Lyons, Development Editor Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Editorial Assistant: Melinda Quintero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard J. Pacifico Cover Photos: Front: Bavaria, Ramsau © Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Getty Images Back: © Frank Rothe/Getty Images Cartoons: Rich Tennant ( Composition Services Project Coordinator: Lynsey Osborn Layout and Graphics: Claudia Bell, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie D. Jumper, Melanee Prendergast Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: Aptara, David Faust, Cynthia Fields, Melanie Hoffman, Todd Lothery, Charles Spencer Indexer: Aptara

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a Glance
Introduction .......................................................1 Part I: Introducing Germany................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany ................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ....................................15 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..............................25 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ..............39

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ..............49
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................51 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ......................................................63 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany ............................................71 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................82 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ......................90 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ......................99

Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ...........109
Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin ..................................................111 Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin........................................................139 Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North ................................................175 Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East....................................................................207

Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..........243
Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit ..........................245 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria................................................284 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights ....................................................311 Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers ................................................................337 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ................365 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros ..........385

Part V: The Part of Tens ..................................409
Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons......................411 Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels ..............................415 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ............420

Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................423 Index .............................................................433


.....................181 Bremen..........................313 Lindau .339 Stuttgart ...........391 ................................................127 Tiergarten-Area Attractions ..............................................................................................................287 Würzburg ..................176 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................323 Freiburg ................291 Augsburg .............................................307 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ..............225 Leipzig S-Bahn ............................................................................................................211 The Zwinger...........................................................................367 Cologne ..............................................................................................329 Heidelberg ...................................................................................................................................................................................................227 Weimar ..............................................................................................................................................275 The Romantic Road .......195 Lübeck ......................................349 Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn.............................................................................295 Füssen .........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................235 Munich Neighborhoods ..............................................................................271 The Residenz......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................369 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn ............................................................................................248 Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................383 Frankfurt am Main ........................................199 Saxony and Thuringia ......................................................................................386 Frankfurt U-Bahn and S-Bahn .......................251 Central Munich Accommodations and Dining .................Maps at a Glance The Regions in Brief .......254 Central Munich Attractions..............................................315 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) ...................................................143 Charlottenburg Attractions ............................................................145 Berlin-Mitte Attractions .........................................................................................................................................................351 Nuremberg.....................................................................................147 Potsdam ................................................................................221 Leipzig .........................................................................................................169 Hamburg .................321 Baden-Baden .................209 Dresden ............303 Garmisch-Partenkirchen ........................................................................................................................371 The Mosel Valley..........................................................................124 Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining ...........................................................................................................................116 Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining ..............289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber ....................................................................................................................268 Deutsches Museum ..................................................................................355 The Rhineland ......................27 Berlin Neighborhoods .................


....25 Discovering northern Germany .......................................................................30 Traveling during high and low seasons ...................................4 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ......................10 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes........................1 About This Book...2 Conventions Used in This Book ........ Opera..................................4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ..........13 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany ...9 Discovering the Best Big German Cities...........................................28 Wending through western Germany........19 Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies.........................................................................................................6 Where to Go from Here..............25 Exploring eastern Germany ....................................................11 Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces...4 Part I: Introducing Germany .....3 How This Book Is Organized.....................................................4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany ..............................................21 Books (fiction and nonfiction) .................................12 Enjoying the Best in Classical Music..............................................................5 Part V: The Part of Tens .........................................18 Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany ..................................................30 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons ..........................29 Scheduling Your Time..... and Ballet............................................21 Movies ......................................25 Going Where You Want to Be......................3 Foolish Assumptions ...............5 Icons Used in This Book....11 Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities ..................................................15 The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History...........................31 Watching those unpredictable skies ..........................................................................................23 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ...........Table of Contents Introduction ...........31 .............................6 Part I: Introducing Germany................................................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany .....15 Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture ..................................................26 Savoring southern Germany............................................................................................................

....................32 Shining (and raining) in summer .....51 Lodging expenses ..............................................................54 Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun ......59 Toting traveler’s checks..........................................38 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options ........35 February.........................................................51 Transportation costs............................................................................................................................................................................................................................57 Handling Money ......................................................................37 October .....................................................................................................................................................................33 Welcoming winter .....................................................34 Perusing a Calendar of Events...................xii Germany For Dummies.............45 Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers ........................................................................................................................................................................65 Booking your flight online .................................................62 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany ........................36 August ..................37 December.............................64 Getting the best airfare ....................................................63 Flying into other German airports..........................36 September.33 Glowing in autumn.63 Flying into Frankfurt ...............35 June........................62 A Tip about Tipping ...........................................................................................................................................54 Shopping and nightlife costs ...........61 Taking Taxes into Account........................ West Side: Germany in Two Weeks ...........................60 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet ................................................................................47 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany .....36 July..............................58 Using ATMs and carrying cash...........................................51 Planning Your Budget ............................................................................39 East Side.....59 Charging ahead with credit cards.................................................. 3rd Edition Blossoming in spring ....35 May ............................63 Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where ............41 Discovering Germany with Kids...........................................................39 Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week........66 ...............................49 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ......................................................................................................................................................................................35 January..................37 November ..........................53 Sightseeing expenses .................................

............92 ....................................................90 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families ......................69 Choosing a package tour ..............................................84 Chain hotels..70 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany .......85 Pensions...........72 Heading to the Hauptbahnhof...............................................74 Getting off on the right track..................................................85 Guesthouses ...................................92 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors ................................................................86 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate................................................75 German rail passes: For Deutschland only..........................................................................................71 Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go......67 Joining an Escorted Tour .80 Fill ’er up.......75 Saving time and euros with rail passes.....................................................89 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ........................67 Traveling by train ...................................................... bitte (please)...............................................................................................91 Hiring a baby sitter in Germany...........71 Weighing the Options: Train or Car? .....68 Tour operators in the United States...80 Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? ................................................................86 Surfing the Web for hotel deals............74 Reserving your seat..................................72 Following basic training ........................................Table of Contents xiii Arriving by Other Means.................................................................................................................................. Tankstellen....80 Sailing through Germany: River Cruises ......................81 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ...................................................................82 Finding the Place That’s Right for You ........................................................................76 Touring by Car: Autobahns........ and Benzin.................84 Boutique hotels.............................87 Reserving the best room..................83 Luxury hotels ..........................................................................................................................77 Renting a car in Germany .....................................................................78 Following the rules of the road .............................................84 Smaller independent hotels..............67 Arriving by boat .....................79 Handling a roadside emergency........................................90 Locating family-friendly businesses ....77 Taking the roads less traveled .........76 Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe .........................69 Locating airline and hotel packages..................

................98 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details..............................................................................95 Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians ...................... ..................101 Staying Healthy When You Travel..................................... S-Bahn.............104 Accessing the Internet away from home ........................99 Getting a Passport..................................123 The top hotels .................120 Going public: U-Bahn.....................................................................111 Getting There........113 Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof.............................................................107 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ........122 Staying in Style .............122 Driving a car .......................................S..113 By car ............................................................................106 Keeping Up with Airline Security ...............................................................................................120 Taking a taxi...............................................S..........114 Finding Information After You Arrive ...........109 Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin...........................................................130 ......................................................................... passport........................96 Celebrating gay pride in Germany ................. 3rd Edition Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities .................103 Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail..............112 By plane ..119 Getting Around Berlin..100 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance ...99 Applying for a U..............115 Introducing western Berlin...........112 By train..................................................................94 Locating resources .......................................................123 Runner-up hotels ...................................................96 Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators................................115 Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) ................................115 Orienting Yourself in Berlin ....................................94 Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair).................................................................................................................................................105 Going Wireless.................................................97 Researching German lesbigay life on the Web ....................................99 Applying for other passports ...104 Using a cellphone outside the U........................97 Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany.................... bus................................................................... and Strassenbahn ...........................xiv Germany For Dummies.....

..............................159 Shopping for Local Treasures................................................................................Table of Contents Dining Out .........................................................................179 Getting around Hamburg .............................................169 Finding tourist information ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................139 Saving money with a museum pass..................137 xv Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin ................178 Finding information ................168 Getting there................................175 Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World ...........157 Walking tours................160 Shopping in eastern Berlin ...........................................................................................133 The best cafes ..........................................................................................................................159 If you have three days in Berlin ...................................................................182 Dining in Hamburg ..................170 Dining at Sanssouci........165 Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci ........................172 Chapter 13: Hamburg........................... Bremen...............140 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .....................................................................................................................................................................162 Discovering Nightlife in Berlin...................................158 Boat tours ................................................................................................... and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North...............................163 Getting tickets ...................................132 The top restaurants....................139 Sightseeing in Berlin ................170 Discovering the top attractions ...................................159 Shopping in western Berlin .........159 If you have two days in Berlin .....................................................179 Orienting yourself .......171 Fast Facts: Berlin ..............................................................................163 Checking out the dance clubs and bars........157 Bus tours.............184 Exploring Hamburg............................................................................141 Finding more cool things to see and do..................................................................................................................162 Finding out what’s happening ..............187 .....158 Following an Itinerary..163 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music............175 Getting there..179 Taking a bus tour ...................180 Staying in Hamburg ...153 Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour...................................................158 If you have one day in Berlin..................

........201 Staying in Lübeck......................................226 Staying in Leipzig ...................................................................................207 Dresden: Florence on the Elbe .............................................................194 Finding information and taking a tour ..........212 Staying in Dresden ....................................................................................................................................196 Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own .................234 Finding information and taking a tour ..........................................................................................214 Exploring Dresden ...........................194 Getting to Bremen..................212 Dining in Dresden...........................................................xvi Germany For Dummies........223 Getting there..233 Getting there....229 Shopping in Leipzig .......224 Finding information and taking a tour .................................................................................................................................191 Living it up after dark in Hamburg.................................198 Getting there.................................221 Discovering nightlife in Dresden....................................................................194 Dining in Bremen...............................203 Chapter 14: Dresden.......................................................................217 Shopping in Dresden ...............................201 Dining in Lübeck .......226 Getting around Leipzig ..........................................................................................226 Dining in Leipzig...............................................................................................................210 Seeing Dresden by guided tour ........................................................................................................................... 3rd Edition Shopping in Hamburg...........................................................210 Getting around Dresden................................................................201 Getting around Lübeck.................................234 Staying in Weimar ..............234 Dining in Weimar........................207 Getting there....................... Leipzig..............208 Finding information ..228 Exploring Leipzig ............................ and Weimar: Jewels of the East.........................................................236 Exploring Weimar..................222 Leipzig: City of Heroes............200 Finding information and taking a walking tour .................202 Walking through Lübeck ...................194 Exploring Bremen .............200 Orienting yourself ....................................233 Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment......................................................................................191 A Side Trip: Bremen .......................232 Discovering nightlife in Leipzig..........................240 .....................237 Exploring the Thuringian Forest ......210 Orienting yourself ...................................................................

...................250 Using public transportation ......................................................286 Exploring Würzburg...................................................................................................................................286 Finding information ...............................................................................................................................................241 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany..............................................267 Finding more cool things to see and do......................................................247 Orienting Yourself in Munich........247 Finding Information After You Arrive .............................252 Runner-up hotels .................................................................290 Getting there.................................245 Getting There....................288 Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg ..........243 Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit..............250 Catching a cab..............................................266 Sightseeing in Munich ......................................................281 Fast Facts: Munich ............259 The top restaurants..........................282 Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria .......278 Shopping for Local Treasures...............289 Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories .......246 By car .......................................252 The top hotels ..............................................................................................246 By train......286 Dining in Würzburg.......................281 Checking out bars and clubs ......291 Finding information ......................................................................................................................281 Raising the curtain on performing arts and music..............292 ............................................284 The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria ...........286 Staying in Würzburg ......................................280 Discovering Nightlife in Munich................285 Würzburg: Franconian Fortress.................................................246 By plane ...........................................................................................................285 Getting there.......................................241 Discovering nightlife in Weimar ...............................Table of Contents xvii Shopping in Weimar..............................................................................277 Seeing Munich by Guided Tour ..............................................252 Staying in Style ...................................................267 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .........................................................................................260 The best beer gardens .............................258 Dining Out ................................................247 Getting Around Munich .....................................................

....................299 Exploring Hohenschwangau...............................................................305 Finding information ..........302 Staying in Füssen ..................................................296 Staying in Augsburg...............................................................299 Finding information and buying tickets ........305 Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen .................................................................................................309 Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights...............................306 Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen ..xviii Germany For Dummies....................302 Dining in Füssen ...................................294 Getting there.............302 Finding information ....................................................305 Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen....302 Getting there..............................299 Getting there................322 Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books...................318 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest).....292 Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber......320 Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town .................................................................................................................................308 Discovering the local nightlife ................................................................306 Ascending the Zugspitze......................................................300 Dining near the castles.................304 Exploring Füssen.............................................294 Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance............292 Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber .........311 The Bodensee (Lake Constance) ...328 ................. 3rd Edition Staying in Rothenburg.................................302 Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road ..................................................................294 Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg.........................297 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air ............305 Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen....299 Exploring Neuschwanstein ................................295 Finding information and taking a tour .......................................293 Shopping in Rothenburg .................................................305 Getting there........................................................................................................................296 Dining in Augsburg ...................312 Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau ......................................311 Lindau: Sunny island charmer .................................................................308 A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles.............................296 Exploring Augsburg .........304 Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze..........................................................................

..344 Shopping in Heidelberg....................356 Staying in Nuremberg ..........Table of Contents xix Chapter 18: Heidelberg............................................358 Exploring Nuremberg ....................354 Getting there.........363 Living it up after dark in Nuremberg ..............................340 Dining in Heidelberg ...........................................................................................368 Staying in Cologne ......................................................................347 Living it up after dark in Heidelberg...........340 Getting around Heidelberg .............................................375 Shopping in Cologne......356 Orienting yourself ..............350 Finding information and taking a tour .......................................................................................353 Shopping in Stuttgart ....................379 Discovering nightlife in Cologne ................................................................................347 A Side Trip to Stuttgart........................................................368 Getting around ........................................................................348 Getting to Stuttgart..338 Taking a guided tour........... Stuttgart........................................................................368 Getting oriented ......370 Dining in Cologne..................................................................................................................................................................................................340 Staying in Heidelberg...............372 Exploring Cologne...............363 Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine ...................................342 Exploring Heidelberg..................354 Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth......................................................................................................................338 Finding information .....................................350 Exploring Stuttgart .............355 Finding information and taking a tour .............337 Heidelberg: Romance on the River ......................................379 ............................350 Stuttgart performing arts.....................................................................366 Finding information ......337 Getting there........................................................360 Shopping in Nuremberg ......................................................................350 Dining in Stuttgart.....357 Dining in Nuremberg ................................... and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers.........................................................366 Getting there.........................................356 Getting around Nuremberg.........................................................................................338 Orienting yourself .................................................................365 Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine .......................

.............................................................................................................405 Raising the curtain on the performing arts .............................................................. 3rd Edition The Mosel Valley: Great Wines.............390 Using public transportation ............................................382 Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros.......412 Days of the Week ........................................................392 Dining Out .......412 Entertainment and Attractions .............................413 Time ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................397 Walking through the city........................................................397 Discovering the top attractions from A to Z .....................388 By train....389 Getting Around Frankfurt.405 Having fun at a cabaret ...................................413 Seasons and Elements .....................413 Warning Signs ................................xx Germany For Dummies..................381 Touring the valley by boat or car .....................................................406 Checking out bars and clubs ...................................................................................................................................................................................................412 Directions....392 Staying in Style .........................................................................................................389 Finding Information After You Arrive ........390 Taking a taxi..................................................................................398 Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour ..407 Part V: The Part of Tens ...................................................................409 Chapter 21: Ten (Zehn) (or so) German Lessons..................................................................................................................................414 .......................................412 Numbers...............394 Sightseeing in Frankfurt ..................389 Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt......388 By plane ..405 Discovering Nightlife in Frankfurt........................................................382 Stopping in Cochem ......................... Beautiful Scenery ..........403 Shopping for Local Treasures.......................................406 Fast Facts: Frankfurt ......412 Colors .....................389 By car ................403 Porcelain .........................................................................411 Basic Words and Phrases................................................................................................................403 Department stores.............................................413 Transportation .......................................411 Accommodations .............385 Getting There..

....423 Fast Facts .......420 Deutscher Tafelwein ............................................ Heidelberg ..428 Where to Get More Information ...................................423 Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites .....................................................................428 Major hotel chains in Germany........................................................................................................................422 Beerenauslese............................................................................................. Cologne....................... Rothenburg .....429 Contacting regional tourist boards ........................430 Index ...........................................................419 Chapter 23: Ten Things to Know About German Wine ........416 Hotel Adlon Kempinski.......... Berlin ......................................420 Tafelwein ........................................................................... Dresden ..........................417 Kempinski Hotel Bristol.................................................................................................................................421 Spätlese ..........................................................................421 Prädikatswein ................................................................................................................................ Berlin ...............................................................421 Kabinett ...............................................416 Excelsior Hotel Ernst..................................420 Deutscher Landwein .415 Der Kleine Prinz..................427 Major airlines serving Germany...427 Major car-rental agencies operating in Germany.420 Qualitätswein.........................................................................................418 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München...........................................433 .........................418 Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz....422 Trockenbeerenauslese .........................415 Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa......................................... Nuremberg ........................418 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe.............................................................422 Appendix: Quick Concierge ...............................Table of Contents xxi Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels .......................................417 Hotel Eisenhut..........................421 Auslese ....................429 Surfing the Net.....................417 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ............. Baden-Baden...422 Eiswein ..........................

3rd Edition .xxii Germany For Dummies.

And how about other historic sites? Do you want to visit Weimar. Germany isn’t a huge country — on a superfast train you can buzz from Berlin in the north to Munich in the south in about seven hours — but exciting cities and scenic sightseeing possibilities pack the terrain. and the forested hills of the scenic Schwarzwald (Black Forest). such as the Bavarian Alps or the Rhine Valley? Did you know that one of the most beautiful scenic drives in Europe is along Germany’s aptly named Romantic Road? What castles and cathedrals would you like to visit? The fairy-tale castles built by King Ludwig of Bavaria are the most famous and popular attractions in Germany. one of the largest lakes in Europe. Belgium. regions. the emphasis is on fresh seafood. Every city or region has its own version of sausage and its favorite local wines and beers. The sunny southwest is where you find the Bodensee. Dramatic regional differences exist in the German landscape. with Luxembourg. too. In the far north. In the north. which shares a border with France. where Goethe lived. The sober brick architecture that predominates in the far north gives way to exuberant baroque churches and palaces in the south. fun-loving Munich. Germany stretches from the Alps in the south to Denmark and the Baltic and North seas in the north. the location of the country’s great ports. answering that question isn’t always easy. the largest church north of the Alps. will dazzle your senses. Regional differences also extend to food and architecture.Introduction S o you’re going to Germany. France bounds Germany to the southwest. the exciting capital of a reunified republic? Elegant. The sheer size of Cologne Cathedral. or Leipzig. every crag in the Rhine Valley seems to have its own romantic legend — or carefully tended vineyard. Situated in the very heart of Europe. where the peaks are tipped with snow until May. near Germany’s coastline. So what cities. or specific attractions do you want to see? Berlin. where Bach conducted? Do you want to stroll down Frankfurt’s . In the west. you find a flat maritime landscape. Drive or take the train a couple of hours east and you’re in the Bavarian Alps. Wunderbar! But what parts of Deutschland (Germany) do you want to visit? Because of this country’s many offerings. Discovering the special regional differences within Germany will help to deepen your understanding and experiences of the country. and the Netherlands to the west and the Czech Republic and Poland to the east. the city where most Germans would live if they could? The great port city of Hamburg? The romantic university town of Heidelberg? Are there specific landscapes you want to see. French cuisine is a major part of the dining scene. In the southwest.

I bypass places that are difficult to reach or of interest only to a scholar or specialist. I exclude places that other. the busiest shopping street in Germany? Are you interested in seeing eastern Germany now that the border is open between east and west? The eastern city of Dresden. the overrated.2 Germany For Dummies. Germany has so much that is really worth seeing that you don’t need to waste your time with the second-rate. You can. or a musttry walking tour. you’ll find information that you’ll want to reference as you plan or enjoy your trip — whether it be a new hotel. and wallet. Germany. From an enormous list of possibilities. Your safety is important to us. you and Germany For Dummies can plan a wunderschöne Reise (wonderful journey). and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time — and this is especially true of prices. Use Germany For Dummies as a reference guide. In this guide. you can flip to the specific part you need or hone in on one specific chapter. Mark these pages with the handy Post-it® Flags that are included in this book to help make your trip planning easier! . start at the first page and read all the way through to the end. or the boring. editors. Therefore. About This Book This is a selective guidebook to Germany. In this book. a must-see attraction. is one of the great art cities of Europe. But. If you’re new to this part of the world. more exhaustive guidebooks routinely include. has an embarrassment of riches. Dummies Post-it® Flags As you’re reading this book. Together. however. all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. if you’ve already been to Germany and know the basics of international travel. I chose only what I consider to be the best and most essential places for visitors. I help you choose from among its many highlights to create the best trip for you. The author. of course. so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on your camera. purse. I suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. as you can see. 3rd Edition Zeil. this guidebook is for you. after all.

If the word is one that you may be using. the currency that replaced the Deutsche Mark in 2002. I include abbreviations for commonly accepted credit cards. I’m happy to report that the user-friendly Germany For Dummies is not like that.25. year-round) or a meal at a restaurant (appetizer. The exchange rate used throughout is 1€ = $1. I also provide a phonetic pronunciation. restaurants. and services are given in euros (€). entree. I first give the name of a sight in German.Introduction 3 Conventions Used in This Book I recently tried to extract some information from a guidebook and felt that I needed training in hieroglyphics to interpret all the different symbols. I employ a system of dollar signs ($) to show a range of costs for one night in a hotel (double room. . Check out the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ Hotel $125 and less $126 to $175 $176 to $225 $226 and more Restaurant $20 and less $21 to $30 $31 to $40 $41 and more Prices in this guide for hotels. Take a look at the following list for an explanation of each: AE: American Express DC: Diners Club DISC: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa I also include some general pricing information to help you decide where to unpack your bags or dine on the local cuisine. followed by an English translation. and then converted into dollars. Foolish Assumptions I make some assumptions about you. including: ߜ You may be an experienced traveler who hasn’t had much time to explore Germany and wants expert advice when you finally do get a chance to enjoy that particular locale. and dessert). attractions. In addition to giving you exact prices. The use of symbols and abbreviations is kept to a minimum. lieber Leser (dear reader).

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany This part helps take some of the wrinkles out of the trip-planning stage. rental car) to use to get around the country and explains what kind of accommodations you can expect for your money. wine. you’re looking for a book that focuses on the places that will give you the best or most unique experience in Germany. they provide information. Along with providing a basic orientation. from passports to buying medical insurance.4 Germany For Dummies. seniors. I also deal with pretrip loose ends. and Jewish travelers. ߜ You’re not looking for a book that provides all the information available about Germany or that lists every hotel. The next two parts of the book are devoted to the major sights and cities within northern and eastern Germany and western and southern Germany. The individual chapters help you decide when to visit and what to see. The first two parts deal with trip planning and organization. Instead. gay and lesbian travelers. I talk about handling money and give you some sound advice on planning a realistic budget. provide a calendar of events. Germany’s capital and most exciting city. advice. then Germany For Dummies gives you the information you’re looking for! How This Book Is Organized The book is broken down into five parts. or attraction. and present you with some possible itineraries. lay out your options for airlines and how to get the best airfares and book money-saving package tours. tell you about German food. I provide special tips for Germany-bound travelers who may have special needs or interests: families. This part helps you to decide what form of transportation (train. If you fit any of these criteria. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany All you need to know about Berlin. or the Romantic Road — you can turn right to that part. All of the parts can be read independently. 3rd Edition ߜ You may be an inexperienced traveler (but you’re definitely not a Dummkopf) who is looking for guidance when determining whether to take a trip to Germany and how to plan for it. is contained in this part. say. travelers with disabilities. and beer. and suggestions that can help you map out a wonderful holiday. restaurant. so if you want to zero in on a specific city or area — Munich. This overview gives you the big picture. I help you to understand and deepen your knowledge of the culture. I point out the best hotels and restaurants and the top attractions to the . Part I: Introducing Germany This first part introduces Germany and gives you some excellent reasons for going there. and explain the kinds of guided tours that are available.

In this part. how to get around. Here I describe the principal cities and attractions found along the Romantic Road. and ten things to know about German wine. a picturesque city of Gothic church spires and ancient brick buildings. Sidetrip options from Cologne include boat rides down the mighty Rhine. is also where you find Hamburg. from designer skyscrapers and great museums to distinctive applewine taverns. Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Munich. topics. From the southwest I head farther north. and Nuremberg. another castle-fantasy of King Ludwig. You find plenty to see and enjoy in “Mainhattan. with its world-famous cathedral and array of first-class museums. a scenic driving tour that begins in Würzburg and ends at Neuschwanstein. My “tens” include ten lessons on the German language. Germany’s “secret capital” and most popular big city. from the mighty harbor to the lurid Reeperbahn (where uncoverage may better describe the sights). gets a big chapter of its own. Staying south but moving west. Northern Germany. I hit the Hamburg highlights. Germany’s largest port city. and what to see. I also include an easy trip to Nymphenburg Palace and the moving memorial at Dachau. I cover three important cities in southwestern Germany: Heidelberg. . these remarkable showcases of art and culture are now “open for business. with the busiest international airport in Germany. Part V: The Part of Tens The Part of Tens enables me to focus a little more attention on extraspecial places.” as Frankfurt is known. including the palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam.Introduction 5 east and west and all around this remarkable city.” I tell you how to take a boat trip from Dresden into a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland. gets a chapter of its own. Then I tell you about side-trip options from Hamburg: Lübeck. with its castles and vineyards. and down the equally picturesque Mosel River. ten great hotels. King Ludwig of Bavaria’s fairytale castle in the Bavarian Alps. Difficult to visit during the Communist years. one of Germany’s principal winegrowing areas. the region’s cultural capital. I also include a description of the memorial at Buchenwald concentration camp near Weimar and an overview of touring options in the Thuringian Forest. a bustling city that offers an array of historic sights. The next chapter goes beyond Munich but stays in Bavaria. Frankfurt. I also introduce you to the Bavarian towns of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. bordering on the North Sea and the Baltic. one of Germany’s most attractive cities. and Bremen. with the oldest university in Germany and the brooding ruins of a mighty castle. and sights I want you to know about. to the lively Rhine-side city of Cologne. plus a selection of great hotels and special restaurants. Stuttgart. with an additional side trip to Linderhof. I also visit the great eastern German cities of Dresden. Leipzig. and Weimar. I provide information on how to get there.

shopping. I want you to be aware of something such as a scam that can cost you money. You can start at the beginning and read the book straight through to the end. I’m not cheap.6 Germany For Dummies. The Best of the Best icon highlights the best the destination has to offer in all categories — hotels. and hotel chains serving Germany. too. Where to Go from Here To Germany. of course! How you want to use this guide is up to you. In this appendix. All this is followed by a few helpful worksheets to help make your trip planning easier. If you do see one. restaurants. car-rental agencies. personalities. . as well as resources for locating additional information on specific cities or areas. but I love to save money. and places of special interest. I hope you’ll think of me as your guide or companion on this journey to Germany. which is sure to be wunderbar. Icons Used in This Book In the margins. You see this icon every time I tell you about something that can save you cash. The Tip icon highlights useful bits of information that can save you time or enhance your travel experience. activities. A Tip icon alerts you to something that you may not otherwise consider or even know about. so you won’t find too many of these icons. Bargain Alert is my favorite icon. or a hazardous situation. or attractions that welcome children or that kids actually enjoy. little pictures that point out helpful trip-planning details or items that are just for fun. which points out hotels. I’m not an alarmist. restaurants. and nightlife. This icon points out tidbits about German culture. you also find a list of toll-free telephone numbers and Web sites for airlines. Traveling with children? Keep your eyes peeled for this icon. like how the telephone system works and what numbers to call in an emergency. you find six different icons. attractions. Or you can start anywhere in between and extract information as you want or need it. and I suspect it may be yours. 3rd Edition Easily found on the yellow pages at the back of this book is a Quick Concierge Appendix with an A-to-Z list of fast facts.

Part I Introducing Germany .

. In Chapter 3. . I present four possible itineraries for visitors who want to sample a wide range of sights. . an introduction to its architecture and cuisine. here to begin? This part lays the groundwork for your trip to Germany. In Chapter 4.W In this part . I tell you more about the places included in the book and discuss scheduling your trip so you can decide where and when to go. the most scenic landscapes. Chapter 1 introduces you to the best Germany has to offer — the most exciting cities. Chapter 2 helps you to understand the country and its culture by giving an overview of its history. and the most interesting attractions. and a list of recommended books and movies.

Perhaps you. the main squares in Germany’s smaller cities glitter and glow with the lights. Munich. I discuss each of these places . landscapes. and you want to explore their home turf. making a visit to Germany a feast for those who enjoy world-class art and music. cake. too. Then there’s the culture: Every midsize-to-large German city has at least one art museum. and Cologne. others come to enjoy a cosmopolitan cafe culture where coffee. and gift stalls of Christmas markets. food. and Heidelberg. a symphony orchestra. This land of contrasting cities. will find that the club/bar/disco scene in Germany is hot. or a giant beer hall with an oom-pah-pah band — and you want to check it out for yourself. and ballet G ermany holds a special fascination for travelers. During the Christmas season. Some visitors come for the chance to drink fullbodied German beer. and moods appeals to visitors for many different reasons. a tradition that dates back hundreds of years. Or perhaps you have an image of Germany in your mind — a castle on a hilltop. like millions of others. and conversation are afternoon staples. not only in large cities like Berlin and Munich but also in smaller university towns like Cologne. In the categories that I outline. Clubbers. This chapter is designed as an at-a-glance reference to the absolute best — the “Best of the Best” — that Germany has to offer.Chapter 1 Discovering the Best of Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Experiencing the greatest cities ᮣ Exploring romantic landscapes ᮣ Discovering legendary castles and palaces ᮣ Visiting smaller towns and cities ᮣ Enjoying world-class classical music. And don’t forget the retail: Great shopping opportunities abound year-round in Berlin. Leipzig. or Berlin. You’ll find as many different reasons to visit Germany as there are tourists who arrive daily. Munich. opera. at the airports in Frankfurt. and an opera house. you’ll find some of the things that make traveling in Germany such a fascinating experience. Hamburg. have German ancestors. a palace in a landscaped garden. by the thousands.

cuisine of all kinds. You’ll find world-class museums. and Rhine-side setting. and plenty of picturesque corners just waiting to be discovered. ߜ Hamburg (Chapter 13). ߜ Dresden (Chapter 14) reigns as the treasure house of eastern Germany. marked with — what else? — a “Best of the Best” icon. Discovering the Best Big German Cities Germany’s top cities offer a wealth of diversions. is one of the most attractive and intriguing cities in western Germany. and fun-loving. The “Queen of the North” presides over a beautiful setting on the Alster Lake but is notorious for her erotically charged entertainment district called the Reeperbahn. too. ߜ Cologne (Chapter 19). or bus. and the reconstructed Frauenkirche. with countless cultural diversions and a kind of urban magic that snares the hearts of millions of visitors each year. ߜ Munich (Chapter 15) is a southern German city where the urban pleasures are as soft and sweet as Schlagsahne (whipped cream) on a rich slab of cake or as exuberant as an oom-pah-pah band in a giant beer hall during Oktoberfest. you can easily reach it all by subway. has the liveliness and lustiness of a big port and the sophistication of a wealthy European metropolis. . The pulse of Berlin is felt throughout Europe. streetcar. bustling pedestrian-only quarters. Berlin (Chapters 11 and 12) always has a major-league buzz. first-rate museums. the riches of the Green Vault. great shopping. the Kurfürstendamm and Unter den Linden. you’ll feel it. ߜ With its endlessly dramatic history and cache of cultural and artistic riches. riverside promenades. Germany’s third-largest city after Berlin and Munich. The old capital of Saxony is where you find the worldfamous Zwinger palace/museum complex. And thanks to Germany’s excellent public-transportation systems. and its vibrant contemporaryarts scene gives it a hefty dose of sophistication. yields plenty of pleasant surprises. Germany’s largest city and new capital has become an international superstar. when the wall separating East Germany and West Germany came down. ߜ Frankfurt (Chapter 20). as simple or as sophisticated as you want. You’ll also find elegant boulevards. including a fine lineup of museums and great shopping on Germany’s busiest shopping street. The capital of Bavaria is sensuous. But since 1989. fascinating architecture. Germany’s most amazing architectural reconstruction effort. music. the Zeil. with its soaring cathedral. sophisticated. you can find them in their indicated chapters. enormous parks and green spaces. Cologne’s carnival is the biggest and brashest in the country. and when you’re walking down Berlin’s two most famous avenues.10 Part I: Introducing Germany and experiences in detail later in this book. with its bevy of designer skyscrapers. and plenty of nightlife.

is like a bit of the Mediterranean. princes. ߜ Perhaps the most dramatic of all German landscapes is the Bavarian Alps. sheltered slopes. From the majesty of the Bavarian Alps in the south to the sandy beaches of the Baltic Sea in the north. and views of them are accessible by train. many of them full of art treasures. is a scenic winegrowing region encompassing thousands of acres of vineyards. with semitropical gardens and an almost Italian languor. ruled over by an assortment of kings. As a result. has been a wine-producing region for upwards of 2. . the Zugspitze. an enormous lake near Germany’s sunny southwestern border. ߜ The Mosel Valley (Chapter 19). and from the winegrowing Rhine Valley in the west to the high. The country’s highest mountain. found along a lovely 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine. Germany offers a wealth of sightseeing possibilities. where you find lakes. dukes. both great and small. duchies. ߜ The Bodensee (Chapter 17). Germany was a conglomeration of regional kingdoms. ߜ From Dresden you can easily explore a scenic region called Saxon Switzerland (Chapter 14). hiking trails. and prince-bishops. ߜ With its fruit trees and vineyards growing on sunny. and scenic lookouts. towers above the alpine resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Chapter 16). offering a remarkable medley of small medieval towns set within a gorgeous Bavarian landscape of river valley and mountain meadow. the Rhine Valley (Chapter 19). from Koblenz south to Alsace.000 years. and car. Germany is loaded with a fascinating collection of castles and palaces. ߜ The Romantic Road (Chapter 16) is the most romantic byway of all. boat. where rocky cliffs rise dramatically above the Elbe River. is like a northern extension of Italy. west of Mainz and Wiesbaden. rocky cliffs along the Elbe in the east. Roman ruins. such as Lorelei rock.Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 11 Witnessing the Most Romantic Landscapes Landscapes of fabled beauty and scenic splendor are found throughout Germany. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. ߜ The Rheingau wine district (Chapter 19). medieval castles. Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces At one time. and vast estates. and all of them open to the public. ߜ Cruises down the mighty River Rhine (Chapter 19) take you past castle-crowned crags and legendary sights. between Trier and Koblenz. ߜ Sophisticated health spas and recreational activities abound in the forest-clad mountains of the Black Forest (Chapter 17).

ߜ Sanssouci (Chapter 12). ߜ For sheer. lovely Lübeck (Chapter 13) epitomizes the maritime culture and redbrick architecture of northern Germany. many of them located less than an hour’s train ride from a major metropolis. scattered like gemstones around the country. these stately homes reveal aspects of German life and the monarchy that lasted up until 1918. in part. because it suffered almost no damage during World War II (WWII). over-the-top opulence.12 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to several museums and staterooms that can be visited on guided tours. Neuschwanstein and Linderhof (see Chapter 16 for both) are preserved almost exactly as they were during Ludwig’s lifetime. you can easily savor them as daytrips. Frederick the Great’s 18th-century rococo palace in Potsdam. indeed. right in the heart of the city (see Chapter 15 for both). you’ll find a very different Germany. Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities Germany is remarkable for its attractive smaller towns and cities. ߜ Used by the powerful prince-bishops until 1806. In these historic hamlets. the amazing Zwinger Palace in Dresden (Chapter 14) is now an unparalleled showcase for old master paintings and porcelain treasures. ߜ For many visitors. ߜ Carefully reconstructed after WWII. and furniture. but it remains an impressive sight even in its semiruined state. the Marienburg crowns the vineyard-covered slopes above Würzburg and today houses the Mainfränkische Museum (Chapter 16). ߜ Nymphenburg Palace on the outskirts of Munich is another kingsize showplace and so is the gigantic Residenz. nothing can compare to the fairy-tale castles built in the 19th century by Ludwig II of Bavaria. Heidelberg Castle (Chapter 18) suffered from war and fire. porcelains. So many architectural gems are located here that the entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a place judged . is remarkable. With their precious paintings. find castles scattered throughout the country. Brimming with the flavors of the past. the quintessential image associated with Germany is a castle on a hilltop. Ruined castles dot the landscape of the Rhine (Chapter 19) and enhance its romantic appeal. ߜ Perched on its crag high above Heidelberg. ߜ A palace that doubled as a fortress. the Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) is famed for its superb ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo. You do. featuring brilliant Renaissance-era woodcarvings by Tilman Riemenschneider. ߜ An easy daytrip from Hamburg. You can easily visit Sanssouci and its beautiful grounds on a daytrip from Berlin.

and Ballet Lovers of classical music. and the quality of musical performance is extraordinarily high. are reasonably priced. one of the most attractive midsize German cities. historic streets. You can walk along the old city walls of this perfectly preserved gem and stroll down streets that haven’t changed much in hundreds of years. flower-filled charm that’s perfect for lazing away a day or two. .Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany 13 to be of exceptional cultural value. ߜ Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Chapter 16). Tickets for musical events. intriguing architecture. and provides a glimpse into 18th-century German life and culture. Augsburg (Chapter 16) is full of historic panache and architectural surprises. among others. in eastern Germany. according to the United Nations agency that promotes education and the arts. an old university town on the Neckar River. ߜ Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is an important center of the German Renaissance that later became an infamous locale for huge. ߜ Located in the Bavarian Alps near Neuschwanstein Castle. unspoiled hamlet was home to Goethe and Schiller. ߜ One of the most sophisticated spa towns in Europe. and ballet will find that Germany is a gold mine. opera. Enjoying the Best in Classical Music. a major highlight along the Romantic Road. This small. Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) offers an extraordinary range of spa treatments during the day and elegant gaming rooms at night. is a walled medieval city loaded with picturesque charm. with major art collections. ߜ Weimar (Chapter 14). ߜ Heidelberg (Chapter 18). Füssen (Chapter 16) invites you to stroll along its cobblestone streets past stone houses and a rushing mountain river. Opera. and enormous castle. including grand opera. ߜ Lindau (Chapter 17). ߜ Stuttgart (Chapter 18). The garden-island of Mainau is a short ferry ride away. Naziera rallies. a marvelous little island-city in the Bodensee (Lake Constance). a 40-minute train ride from Heidelberg. was a cradle of the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. including Renaissance-era palaces and the oldest almshouse in Germany. is the arts and culture capital of southwestern Germany. Remnants and reminders from both eras are plentiful in Nuremberg. enchants visitors with its romantic setting. and the second-largest beer festival after Munich. has a sunny. ߜ A stop on the Romantic Road or an easy daytrip from Munich.

and so does the Staatsoper (State Opera). ߜ For a city of its size. ߜ Up north. but the company still performs at the State Theater. ߜ A visit to Dresden (Chapter 14) can be made even more memorable by an evening at the Semperoper (Semper Opera House). Major artists appear at the Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera). and two fine orchestras — the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker (Cologne Philharmonic) and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra) — perform in the Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. while the magnificent Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra) performs in the Philharmonic Hall. conducted by Sir Simon Rattle. including the famed Berlin Philharmonic. the Hamburg Ballet. and three highly-regarded orchestras. one of the great cultural centers of Germany. who lived and worked in the city for more than 40 years — with the yearly Bachfest. ߜ Opera Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt gives a big musical boost to Frankfurt (Chapter 20). .14 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Berlin (Chapter 12) is home to three major symphony orchestras. Hamburg (Chapter 13) plays host to the Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera). the Rhineland’s leading opera house. the brilliant Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) shares the National Theater stage with its ballet company. Cologne (Chapter 19) has an amazing array of musical offerings. ߜ The city of Leipzig (Chapter 14) is home to the world-renowned Gewandhaus Orchestra and the acclaimed Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera). and three opera houses that share their stages with resident ballet companies. Cranko is gone. one of the world’s great opera houses. ߜ In Munich (Chapter 15). Leipzig celebrates its most famous citizen — the composer Johann Sebastian Bach. or hearing a concert by the Dresden Philharmonic. ߜ The Stuttgart Ballet in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) hit international stardom in the 1970s when John Cranko took over the company. as does the Frankfurt Philharmonic.

768–814) was responsible for the earliest large-scale attempt to unite the lands of Germany under one ruler. I distill the essence of Germany’s complicated and tumultuous past so you can get a clear. By the first century A. and wine ᮣ Finding books and movies about Germany T his chapter helps you find out more about Germany and deepens your experience of the country. whet your appetite with a primer on German food and drink. The following list highlights the main trends in German history: ߜ Early history: Prehistoric humans hunted in the Rhine and Neckar valleys of present-day Germany.D. the empire of the Franks represented the transition from a loose conglomeration of German tribes into what eventually would become the German Empire. Charlemagne (Karl der Grosse.. beer.Chapter 2 Digging Deeper into Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Perusing the main events in Germany’s history ᮣ Recognizing Germany’s architectural heritage ᮣ Discovering German food. The Main Events: Tracking Germany’s History Germany’s long and tumultuous history remains clouded by the horrors of World War II (WWII). Koblenz.D. Mainz. Following the Roman withdrawal from Germany in A. and recommend some excellent books and movies about Germany. with garrisons established at Cologne (Chapter 19). I highlight the main architectural trends. 400. How a civilized European nation slipped into the state of barbaric inhumanity that existed during Nazism’s rise and WWII is a question that continues to occupy historians and survivors and haunt the Germans themselves. quick sense of the major epochs. the Roman sphere of influence extended well into the borders of present-day Germany. and Trier. .

In its attempt to establish a democratic and republican government. and his work had far-reaching implications. After triumphs in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871). ߜ The Reformation. During this period.16 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ The Middle Ages: The power struggles and invasions of the Middle Ages continually disrupted the unity hammered out by Charlemagne. Prussian. writers. composers. which was followed by the decisive Battle of Waterloo. An upswing in international commerce from the 11th to 13th centuries led to the foundation of “Free Imperial Cities” like Hamburg and Lübeck (see Chapter 13 for both). Under Frederick the Great (Friedrich der Grosse. Germany remained a collection of small principalities and free cities. . the so-called Weimar government (1919–1934) represented a break in dominant traditions of German history. In 1813. Bismarck succeeded in winning over southern German states and. pitting the Protestant north against the Catholic south and affecting the whole of Europe. When that effort failed.” Berlin — capital of the republic — blossomed into Germany’s economic and cultural center. ߜ Revolution and the Reich: Following Napoleon’s defeat. During the “Golden Twenties. became first chancellor of the German Empire (Reich). ߜ World War I and Weimar: For many observers. the country’s military and political rulers were determined to return to a system of absolute monarchy. in 1871. the Great War (1914–1918) represented a German attempt to dominate Europe. After defeating the Austrian and Prussian armies. 1740–1786). As Protestant Reformation spread. while fighting on the western front ultimately led to German defeat and the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Prussia gained status as a great European power. and Napoleon: The 16th century was a time of social unrest and religious upheaval throughout Germany. the Enlightenment. Prussian statesman Otto von Bismarck (1815–1898) advocated consolidation of the German people under Prussian leadership. Because of the weakness of central authority. Martin Luther (1483–1546) battled against the excesses of the Catholic Church. Napoleon occupied several German cities and abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. Although the war wasn’t fought on German soil. the Austrian Hapsburg monarchy reimposed its sovereignty over Prussia and other parts of Germany. The question of independence and national unity finally came to a head in the 1848 revolution. the works of German artists. Austrian. various German tribal duchies sought to build their own autonomy. it resulted in severe food shortages throughout the country and intensified political unrest. and philosophers ushered in the Age of Enlightenment. Military conflict on the eastern front resulted in the defeat of Russia. and until the demise of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. and Russian armies fought the French emperor in Leipzig. the Catholic Church launched a Counter-Reformation that culminated in the bloody Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). Residual issues from war and hostility from conservative groups conflicted with reformist and radical impulses of the left and cultural avant-garde.

including many prominent artists. economic. Millions of Jews and other “undesirable” minorities throughout Germany and the rest of Nazi-occupied Europe were systematically exterminated in one of the most horrifying chapters in world history. In Nuremberg (Chapter 18). but old authoritarian. ߜ The rise of Nazism and World War II: Economic crisis in Germany was a major factor in the rise of the Nazi movement. See Chapter 12 for information on walking tours that focus on Berlin’s Nazi and Jewish histories. ߜ The two Germanys: Intending at first to govern conquered Germany as one unit. ߜ Germany reunited: The opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989 marked for East Germany the culmination of a wave of previously . near the eastern German town of Weimar. In 1948. West German recovery got underway with U. Germany’s Jewish past is the subject of Berlin’s remarkable Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). In 1961. fled the country to escape persecution. In Berlin. thousands of German Jews. At the end of the war. the most comprehensive of its kind. and Dachau (Chapter 15). the war’s victors divided it into two states as the Cold War intensified. Two Germanys developed with highly different political. The most wrenching memorials of that gruesome chapter of German history are the concentration camps Buchenwald (Chapter 14). The Soviet blockade of West Berlin resulted in the Anglo-American Berlin airlift. and social systems. the Berlin Wall was constructed. scientists. nationalistic. which continued until 1949. assistance in the form of the Marshall Plan. the site of Nazi-architect Albert Speer’s enormous Congress Hall has been reclaimed as the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Rally Grounds Documentation Center) with a brilliantly informative exhibit that chronicles the rise and fall of the National Socialists. Germany ceased to exist as an independent state. and politicians. and other groups that were murdered by the National Socialists between 1933 and 1945. in German). You can also visit the courtroom in Nuremberg where Nazi officials were tried after the war. As the brutal anti-Semitic political agenda of Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) became apparent.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 17 Remembering the Nazi-era past Germany’s Nazi-era past and the enormity of crimes committed during World War II are facts that can’t be glossed over or overlooked. Berlin (Chapter 12) is particularly rich in memorials commemorating the hundreds of thousands of Jews. northwest of Munich. and the Soviet-ruled German Democratic Republic (GDR) in the eastern half had its capital in East Berlin. walking tours take visitors past Nazi-era buildings and exhibits that interpret Nazi methods.S. gays. sealing off East Berlin from West Berlin. and imperialistic attitudes also provided a ripe environment for the National Socialist Party to take control. with its major cities in smoldering ruins. The Federal Republic of Germany in the western half of the country had its capital in Bonn. Gypsies (Sinta.

The Residenz in Würzburg (Chapter 16) and palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam (Chapter 12) are two of the best examples of baroque architecture in Germany. is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Germany. particularly in Cologne (Chapter 19). built from 1045 to 1188. A simpler and more monumental kind of Gothic architecture. ߜ Renaissance (late 15th–17th centuries): Augsburg (Chapter 16) is one of the best cities in Germany to see Renaissance architecture. Angela Merkel became Germany’s first female chancellor. predominates in northern Germany in cities such as Lübeck (Chapter 13). and enormous windows. a style characterized by calm precision. with East and West Germany united under one government. Bombing raids in WWII left much of the country’s rich architectural heritage in ruins. grassroots communication between citizens in East Germany led to massive demonstrations against the repressive. ߜ Baroque (17th–18th centuries): A decorative exuberance in curvy baroque architecture sets it apart from the more sober Renaissance style. Some areas escaped damage. Berlin was made the nation’s new capital. but the overall devastation affected nearly the entire country. ߜ Gothic (13th–16th centuries): Cologne Cathedral (Chapter 19) is Germany’s greatest example of Gothic architecture. with pointed arches. Building Blocks: Lauding Local Architecture Buildings that you can visit on a trip to Germany span some 1. Many historic buildings are painstaking postwar reconstructions.200 years of architectural history and were created in a number of different styles. Compared to Romanesque. soaring vaults and spires. The baroque flourished in Catholic. built of brick.18 Part I: Introducing Germany suppressed revolutionary sentiment across central and eastern Europe. Munich (Chapter 15) abounds in the baroque. . Reforms by Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev and underground. and rounded arches signal Romanesque architecture. Renaissance architecture was imported from Italy into southern Germany. In 2006. a building style adapted from much earlier Roman models. clear forms. In 1991. Here are examples from around Germany of the major architectural trends: ߜ Romanesque (10th–12th centuries): Simple. Many interesting examples of Romanesque architecture are found in western Germany. The Dom St. thick walls. Kilian in Würzburg (Chapter 16). this style is slender and daring. Counter-Reformation areas in the south of Germany. and classical decoration over windows and doors. orderly repeating lines. such as the medieval towns along the Romantic Road (see Chapter 16). Stalinist government of the GDR.

uninspired. It’s a simple. ߜ Neoclassical/Neo-Gothic (mid 18th–19th centuries): The neoclassical style was meant to be a rebuke to the excesses of baroque and rococo. Bauhaus museums are in Weimar (Chapter 14) and Berlin (Chapter 12). Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany German cooking tends to be hearty and filling. an early-20th-century European movement that emphasized flowing. neoclassicism gave way to the more ponderous Neo-Gothic style. and it was most popular in Berlin (see Chapter 12). free of frills and unnecessary decoration. ߜ Bauhaus (1913–1933): A rigorously modern style. Seasonal specialties include Spargel (white .Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 19 ߜ Rococo (18th century): Notch up the elements of baroque and you have rococo. As the century wore on. James Stirling’s Neue Staatsgalerie in Stuttgart (Chapter 18) is a reminder of just how clunky. asymmetrical. organic shapes. One of the most famous examples of flamboyant rococo architecture in Germany is the Wieskirche (Chapter 16) in Bavaria. who founded the Bauhaus school to create functional buildings and furnishings. The famous Mädlerpassage arcade in Leipzig (Chapter 14) shows Jugendstil influence. Bauhaus was championed by Walter Gropius (1883–1969). and so do many houses in the Schwabing district of Munich (Chapter 15). and unappealing most postmodern buildings are. you’ll see modernist buildings all around you. This faux-medievalism is what Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein (Chapter 16) is all about. functional style with straight lines and square windows. exemplified by curving walls and staggering amounts of gilded and stucco decoration. ߜ Postmodernism (1980s onward): Postmodernism is a style practiced by architects who plunder the past and apply old styles to the buildings of today. with many regional variations and specialties. where the architect Schinkel created a whole neoclassical avenue (Unter den Linden) and island of museums. ߜ Modernism (1948 onward): A major housing shortage and rebuilding effort in bombed cities in Germany followed the devastation of WWII. If you walk down the streets or pedestrian zones in just about any major German city. created for a 1927 building exhibition. The school was banned by the Nazis because it didn’t promote “German-looking” architecture. ߜ Jugendstil (early 20th century): Jugendstil is the German name for Art Nouveau. The Bauhaus style predominates in the Weissenhofsiedlung area of Stuttgart (Chapter 18).

and tell the waiter or tavernkeeper whether you want ein Bier vom Fass (fum fahss. malt beer) contains hardly any alcohol. Vollbier (foal-beer. followed by Export. color. can’t be poured in less than seven minutes to achieve the proper head. In the country as a whole. always serve good and fairly inexpensive traditional food. or Pilsener. Pils. aging time. Vollbier. brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery). Kölsch. You ask for ein Grosses (ine grow-ses). or ein Kleines (ine kly-nis). and Weizenbier. A Bräuhaus (broy-house) serves its own brew along with local food. . Bockbier. for a large. beers are light and contain more hops. especially in southern Germany. Pils. malt (barley). Export has 5 percent. A proper draft beer. When it comes to baked goods — bread and pastries — Germany has more variety than any country in the world. The traditional Biergarten (beer garden). Märzbier (maertz-beer). with about 300 different types of bread and 1. and taste all contribute to a German beer’s unique qualities. Export. decide whether you want a dunkles Bier (dark beer. alcoholic content. but not too cold. The range of beer varieties includes Altbier. and Reh (venison) in the fall. brewed with darkly roasted malt fermented for a long period of time) or a helles Bier (light beer. according to the Germans. traditional cellar restaurants beneath a city’s Rathaus (Town Hall).” is dark and strong. Munich. Malzbier. and Nuremberg all have their own special kinds. yeast. in an appropriate beer glass or mug. Weizenbier (vitsen-beer). or “March beer. Sampling German beer Bier (pronounced beer) remains a vital part of German culture. To order a beer. A German law adopted in 1516 dictates that German beer may contain no ingredients other than hops. Ratskellers. for a small. you can taste about 150 different types of sausage. is still very popular. Matjes (white herring) in June and July. When you order a beer in Germany. and wine. Dark and sweet Malzbier (maltz-beer. Erdbeeren (strawberries) in spring. Forelle (trout) in the summer. from the barrel) or in a Flasche (flah-shuh.20 Part I: Introducing Germany asparagus) in May and June.200 varieties of biscuits and cakes. so much so that the right to drink beer is written into some labor contracts. you have many choices. and water. Lager. Berlin. bottle). Märzbier. with tables set outdoors under trees or trellises. The beer is always served cold. The ratio of ingredients. is a Bavarian white beer. with a long-lasting head of white foam. made from wheat. The most popular beer in Germany is Pils. brewing temperature and technique. or standard beer) has 4 percent alcohol. beer. and Bockbier has 6 percent. and a beer with lunch in the factory cafeteria is taken for granted.

personalities. for example. provide excellent accompaniments to any meal. ߜ Bismarck by Edward Crankshaw: An objective and highly readable life of the first chancellor of the German Empire and a seminal figure in Germany’s Prussian past. and in particular. brewed right in the area. and Nuremberg (Chapter 18) is famous for its Lebkuchen (spice cakes). Look out for regional specialties. Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies In the following book and movie lists. ߜ Buddenbrooks by Thomas Mann: A classic of German literature. ߜ Berlin Journal 1989–1990 by Robert Darnton: An eyewitness account of the events that led to the opening of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of East Germany’s Communist regime. Lübeck (Chapter 13). past and present. ߜ Billiards at Half-Past Nine by Heinrich Böll: A compelling novel by one of Germany’s best-known writers about the compromises made by a rich German family during the Hitler years. too. and politics. has increased dramatically during the past two decades. Vollman: A bold. I attempt to provide a broad overview of Germany from many different perspectives and historical epochs. And German beers are legendary. mostly from grapes grown in the scenic Rhine and Mosel valleys (Chapter 19). Books (fiction and nonfiction) The number of books written about Germany. Each city has its favorites. about WWII and the Holocaust. ߜ Before the Deluge: A Portrait of Berlin in the 1920s by Otto Friedrich: A fascinating portrait of the political.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany 21 Although not kind to the waistline. cultural. the German tradition of afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is alive and well. brilliant novel that examines the authoritarian cultures of 20th-century Germany and . is the capital of Marzipan (almond paste). and social life of Berlin between the wars. this novel deals with the transition of a merchant family in Lübeck from 19th-century stability to 20th-century uncertainty. ߜ Conversations with Goethe by Johann Peter Eckermann: Early19th-century Germany from the viewpoint of the most renowned German figure of the Enlightenment. ߜ Europe Central by William T. that can help you gain a better understanding of German history. German wines (Chapter 23). The books I’ve selected include many great German authors.

scholar. and chancellor of West Germany (1969–1974). musician. ߜ The German Lesson by Siegfried Lenz: A bestseller when it first appeared in 1971. ߜ The Unmasterable Past: History. including works by Robert Payne. and German National Identity by Charles S. and John Toland. true stories of a handful of Jews who managed to remain in Berlin during WWII by hiding out in the homes of non-Jewish German friends. ߜ Germany 1866–1945 by Gordon Craig: One of the best single accounts of the turbulent political. mayor of cold-war West Berlin (1957–1966). written by a Nobel Prize winner who kept his own Nazi past a secret until 2006. ߜ Five Germanys I Have Known by Fritz Stern: The well-known historian chronicles the five distinct eras of Germany’s modern history that his Jewish family has experienced. ߜ The Germans by Gordon Craig: A highly readable and knowledgeable portrait of postwar Germany. winner of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971. this powerful novel explores Nazism and its aftermath in the north German provinces. statesman. ߜ German Family Research Made Easy by J. Joachim Fest. ߜ Frederick the Great by Nancy Mitford: Frederick. ߜ The Tin Drum by Günter Grass: Perhaps the most famous novel about life in post-WWII Germany. Konrad: If you’re interested in tracing your German roots. and patron of the arts. ߜ My Life in Politics by Willy Brandt: The political memoirs of Willy Brandt (1913–1992). ߜ The Last Jews in Berlin by Leonard Gross: Gripping. cultural. but Kershaw’s is one of the best. ߜ A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain: Twain’s account of his travels in Germany is as fresh today as when it first was published in 1899. this easy-to-follow guide makes the task easier. and economic life in Germany from the foundation of the German Reich through the end of the Third Reich. ߜ Here I Stand: A Life of Martin Luther by Roland Bainton: A fascinating and meticulously researched account of the Protestant reformer. Maier: A study of German attempts to come to terms with the Holocaust and the recent controversy surrounding conservative attempts to downplay the historical . Holocaust. ߜ Hitler: 1936–1945: Nemesis by Ian Kershaw: Several good biographies about Hitler have been written. sketched with wit and humor.22 Part I: Introducing Germany Russia and creates a mesmerizing picture of life during wartime from many different perspectives.

ߜ A Foreign Affair (1948): Billy Wilder’s cynically hilarious look at postwar occupied Berlin. and provocative. this classic German silent movie used expressionist sets to create a tale of murder and madness. ߜ Goodbye. ߜ Cabaret (1972): A musical based on Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories and set in Berlin at the brink of WWII. Movies As with literature. . Do as the Germans Do by Hyde Flippo: A short. customs. ߜ Berlin Alexanderplatz (1980): Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 15-part television adaptation of the novel by Alfred Döblin follows the life of a man released from prison between the two world wars. a loyal Communist. ߜ The Blue Angel (1930): The film that shot Marlene Dietrich to international stardom remains stark. WWII and the Holocaust have dominated the subject matter of recent films about Germany — so much so that German-made films about contemporary German life rarely get a showing outside of Germany unless they win a top prize at a film festival. starring Marlene Dietrich as an amoral cabaret singer and Jean Arthur as a self-righteous U. Lenin! (2004): A wry comedy about a young man in East Berlin who tries to keep his bedridden mother. ߜ Bent (1997): Movie adaptation of Martin Sherman’s powerful play about Max. 23 ߜ When in Germany. a gay man sent to Dachau concentration camp under the Nazi regime.Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany uniqueness of the German genocide against Jews and other minorities. the one who built Neuschwanstein.S. ߜ Ludwig (1972): Visconti’s turgid epic about the last king of Bavaria. ߜ The Marriage of Maria Braun (1979): Hanna Schygulla stars as a woman married to a soldier in the waning days of WWII. and heritage. My recommended list includes a selection of German and Germany-themed films available on VHS or DVD. the powerful Nazi official who was subsequently executed for war crimes. startling. from learning that the wall has come down and Germany has been reunited. senator. ߜ Witness to Nuremberg by Richard Sonnenfeldt: The chief American interpreter at the war-crimes trials tell his story of dealing directly with Hermann Göring. entertaining crash course in German culture. ߜ The Cabinet of Doctor Caligari (1921): One of the earliest horror films.

in which the Workers plan a revolt against the aloof Thinkers that dominate them in a future dystopia. ߜ Triumph of the Will (1934): Leni Riefenstahl filmed the gigantic 1934 Nazi conference and rally in Nuremberg as “image-control” propaganda for the Third Reich. Run (1999): Fast-paced twists and turns as Lola races desperately through Berlin seeking 100. ߜ Wings of Desire (1988): An angel roaming the streets of Berlin and recording the angst and joy of ordinary life falls in love with a mortal.000 Deutsche Marks to save her boyfriend from being rubbed out by a gangster. ߜ Run. ߜ Olympiad (1936): Leni Riefenstahl’s super-Aryan take on the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin.24 Part I: Introducing Germany ߜ Metropolis (1927): Fritz Lang directed this classic of German cinema. Lola. .

or avoid. To figure out which regions to visit during your trip. the north’s sober redbrick Gothic churches and buildings lack the ornate baroque decorations found in the Catholic south. W Going Where You Want to Be Germany For Dummies. special sights. I help you to narrow your focus so you can start planning your trip in earnest. You also find a calendar of events so you can time your trip to coincide with. My aim in this book is to introduce you to the best cities. This chapter points out highlights of each region and gives you the lowdown on the weather so you can determine the best destinations and time of year for your visit. is a selective guidebook. Discovering northern Germany Northern Germany is a different world from southern Germany. geared to savvy travelers who want to know more about Germany’s leading sights. historic towns.Chapter 3 Deciding Where and When to Go In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring Germany’s main points of interest ᮣ Scheduling your trip ᮣ Getting a grip on the seasons: Tourism and weather ᮣ Flipping through the country’s calendar of events hat do you want to see when you visit Germany. special festivals and events. only the essential highlights. The food is plainer. region. too. and city in Deutschland. check out the following thumbnail sketches and find details of the best places Germany has to offer in Chapters 1 and 2. The climate in the north. 3rd Edition. I don’t cover every state. often is wet or . and scenic regions that Germany has to offer. which is influenced by the North and Baltic seas. For locations. Architecturally. see “The Regions in Brief” map in this chapter. with an emphasis on fish. and when do you want to go? In this chapter.

Does the Berliner Luft (Berlin air) account for Berlin’s endless and ongoing fizz of excitement. Lübeck. In Bremen. and Bremen. or at least difficult to visit. you see examples of its 900-yearold history everywhere you turn. on the Elbe River and only two hours from Berlin by train. one of the biggest in the world. East Germany’s secret police. For the scoop on Hamburg. is a major tourist attraction. Leipzig. such as Altona. you find a historic center with a day’s worth of sightseeing possibilities. Lübeck. as some people claim? With world-class museums. The Bach Museum is of interest to classical-music lovers.26 Part I: Introducing Germany misty. Berlin is where all is happening in Germany right now. and bars. but some people believe the maritime atmosphere is part of its overall appeal. so are the breezy Alster Lakes in the center of the city. Dresden. You find comprehensive coverage of Berlin — including a daytrip to Frederick the Great’s charming. Hamburg is the third-largest city in Germany. brash Berlin was the capital of the old German Reich for 70 years before it was divided into two cities — one capitalist. has been less interested in restoring its past than looking toward the future. Exploring eastern Germany Now that Germany is reunited. one Communist — after World War II. you have an opportunity to visit sections of eastern Germany that for 45 years were inaccessible. opened in 2005. on the other hand. top performing-arts venues. Big. you can also explore beautiful 19th-century neighborhoods. offers a rich collection of European art and 19th-century German paintings. and striking new architecture. It has stitched itself back together to become the capital (and largest city) of a reunified Germany and now reigns as one of the most fascinating cities in the world. has treasures beyond measure in the Zwinger Palace and the Residenzschloss. from the Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall) to the church spires that dominate the skyline. . After Berlin and Munich (in the south). In Hamburg. an easy daytrip from Hamburg. according to the United Nations’ agency that promotes education and the arts. and the Museum of Fine Arts. which houses an outstanding. multifaceted collection of art. turn to Chapter 13. has so many medieval brick buildings that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site — a place judged to be of exceptional cultural value. historic reverberations. 18thcentury palace of Sanssouci in Potsdam — in Chapters 11 and 12. Similarly. and its harbor. now a lively area with restaurants. and visit the Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum). and the city seems to be working overtime to shake off its GDR legacy: The Museum in der Runden Ecke is devoted to the role the Stasi. In the Altstadt. played in the lives of citizens. the Zeitgeschichtliches Museum (Contemporary History Museum) chronicles the history and artifacts of the GDR years. under the Communist regime of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). another easy daytrip from Hamburg. cafes. The peaceful revolution of 1989 began there.

T.000 people . which began here in 1919. furniture. textiles. eastern town of Weimar is in a category of its own. quiet. It suffered little damage during the war and was the home of Germany’s greatest writer. the site of a Nazi-run concentration camp just outside of Weimar where at least 56. Nuremberg C AN FR Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl O JUR LUXEMTrier BOURG in Bayreuth Bamberg Darmstadt Worms Mannheim eck Homburg Heidelberg N Saarbrücken Saarbr cken A CZECH REPUBLIC M Ta ub er BO NI ar HE A Karlsruhe BadenBaden Schwäbisch Schw bisch Hall Stuttgart Ulm B (SC LAC Rhi ne HW K F AR OR ZW EST AL D) Tübingen bingen Regensburg F O RE Da ST nub e rdlingen Nördlingen r Ingolstadt Isa Passau Augsburg Landshut N I FRANCE Lech Freiburg Lörrach rrach SWAB Donaueschingen Meersburg Konstanz Lindau Lake JU IAN RA nu Da be Dachau Munich Oberammergau Füssen ssen GarmischPartenkirchen Southern and Western Germany See Part IV Prien am AU Chiemsee Berchtesgaden STRIA SW S W I TZ TZE ER RLA L A ND ND Constance (Bodensee) Neuschwanstein Zugspitze The small. The homes of these two literary giants are Weimar’s most popular tourist attractions. The small Bauhaus Museum exhibits paintings. Stettin Bay Neubrandenburg Wilhelmshaven Emden Oldenburg Bremerhaven W Elb e Hamburg El be Schwerin TH HE E N ET H ERLAN DS NET HER L AND S Bremen Celle Northern and Eastern Germany See Part III Alle r Brandenburg Havel Osnabr ck Osnabrück Minden Hannover Braunschweig Hameln Goslar BERLIN Frankfurt Münster nster Rh in e Bielefeld Detmold Hildesheim Potsdam an der Oder Oder bbenau Lübbenau Cottbus Magdeburg H A R Z Wittenberg Essen Lippe Dortmund Ruhr Düsseldorf sseldorf Bad Pyrmont Dessau be El Od ese r Lüneburg neburg er POLAND Mönchengladbach nchengladbach Cologne Aachen Ems Ne We ser Spre Göttingen ttingen isse Halle Leipzig e Kassel Weimar Bad Wildungen Eisenach Erfurt Bautzen Naumburg Meissen Dresden Altenburg Freiberg Jena Görlitz rlitz TH Bonn BEL BE LG GIUM IU M Bad Nauheim Bad Homburg Bad Kissingen GE Gera Zwickau RW Chemnitz ER E ZG BI RG E Koblenz Wiesbaden Mainz Rhi ne ÜR ALD Coburg Hof La IN be BernkastelKues Frankfurt am Main Aschaffenburg Ma Würzburg rzburg AN Speyer Rothenburg o. Cuxhaven Rügen gen Mecklenburg Stralsund Pomeranian Bay Bay Rostock Greifswald Wismar Lübeck beck West Frisian Is. and drawings from the Bauhaus school. A visit to the Buchenwald Memorial. the poet and dramatist Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832).d. and to the playwright Friedrich Schiller (1759–1805). Schleswig Mountain Kiel North Sea East Frisian Is. pottery.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 27 The Regions in Brief 0 0 50 mi Sylt Sylt Westerland DENMARK Baltic Sea Kiel Bay Hiddensee N 50 km Flensburg North Frisian Is.

the daytrip to the mountain resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen is an easy one. crammed with old masters. Both areas offer great natural beauty and plenty of recreational opportunities. and concerts of all kinds. In the center of town sits an enormous palace. From there you can explore the surrounding forest or hunt for a cuckoo clock. is a place that’s tailor-made for tourists. also is where you find Oberammergau. sits in a sun-drenched basin with a view of the Alps to the south. Leipzig. and the famous Schwarzwald. symphony. the capital. the Bodensee. Munich’s musical life is the envy of many cities. In the Black Forest. From Munich. with stops at several perfectly preserved medieval towns along the way. an island in the lake. but it’s also boisterous. Munich. Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle in the Bavarian Alps. which is accessible by cable car. Savoring southern Germany Southern Germany is worlds apart from the north. You also find lovely churches with sober Gothic and exuberant baroque interiors. Lindau. You’ll find plenty of both along the Romantic Road. This enchanting route winds south from Würzburg to Neuschwanstein. Bavaria is full of scenic splendor and picturesque charm. one of the traditional industries of the Black Forest region. the Residenz. the most beautiful driving tour in Germany. Germany’s highest peak. Bavaria. with its famous mineral baths and glamorous casino. or Black Forest. the lively and lovely city of Freiburg is a delight. and it’s close to the Zugspitze. semitropical gardens flourish on Mainau. is cultured and elegant. Ranking right up there with the offerings of Berlin are Munich’s museums. even raucous: Millions pour into the city during Oktoberfest to experience Munich’s renowned giant beer halls and beer gardens. Southern Germany also includes the Bodensee (also called Lake Constance). Farther north is the city of Baden-Baden. Details about the Bodensee and the Black Forest are in Chapter 17. This alpine region. and Weimar in Chapter 14. Germany’s largest and most prosperous Land (state). Germany’s largest lake. a town that’s famous for its woodcarvers and for the Passion play performed there every ten years — a tradition dating back to the 17th century. and major 20th-century artists. is the best spot to stay. an island-city connected to the mainland by a causeway. The Romantic Road and daytrips in Bavaria are covered in Chapter 16. Chapter 15 is devoted to the many delights of Munich. and vineyards and fruit trees grow around its shoreline. You find complete coverage of Dresden. 19th-century greats. can be an intense and profoundly moving experience. .28 Part I: Introducing Germany died. with year-round opera. the largest science and technology museum in the world. where cowbells clang in the meadows and classic chalets nestle in picturesque valleys. used by the rulers of Bavaria from the 14th century up to 1918. with an upscale chic. The city’s most popular museum is the Deutsches Museum.

occupies a prime spot on the Rhine River. Chief among its many outstanding museums are the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. Stuttgart. in addition to the country’s largest museum of art and culture. the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). Among its many cultural offerings are several important museums. River cruises originating in Cologne and many other cities in the area take you through valleys of neatly clipped vineyards soaking up sunlight on steep hillsides.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 29 Wending through western Germany Western Germany is a densely populated area with an ancient history and cities with vibrant personalities all their own. Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is the oldest in Germany. Heidelberg is for many people the quintessential romantic German town. Frankfurt probably is the best-known metropolis in western Germany. one of Germany’s best for art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. Little more than a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of WWII. an art museum housed in a striking glass cube offering a panoramic view of Stuttgart. By contrast. The city’s past dark side as a center for Nazi rallies is documented in the harrowing exhibit at the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Nazi Party Rally Grounds Documentation Center) created within Albert Speer’s Nazi Congress Hall. with major painting collections and the fabulous Neue Galerie. Stuttgart’s is one of the largest. and the Museum Ludwig. and a delightful Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum). Heidelberg. Stuttgart. Sitting on the Neckar River amid green hills. Nürnberg (or Nuremberg as it’s known in English) was rebuilt in a style that evokes the medieval era when it was one of the most important cities in Germany. Heidelberg’s enormous ruined castle oversees its picturesque Altstadt (Old Town). Cologne was an important Roman town during a period that is wonderfully interpreted in the Romisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). The Rhine and Mosel valleys in western Germany form one of Europe’s top wine-producing areas. sophisticated. or Cologne (as it’s known in English). and good-natured town offers more than enough to keep you busy for a couple of days. . all described in Chapter 20. Cologne also is one of the contemporary-art capitals of Germany. which comes as a wonderful surprise to many visitors. Frankfurt has a modern. and Nuremberg are covered in Chapter 18. You can also visit many wine towns by train. Its chief glory is its awe-inspiring Dom (Cathedral). one of the top modern-art museums in Europe. business-oriented buzz and a skyline pierced by designer skyscrapers. For more on Cologne and side trips into Germany’s wine country. the largest Gothic structure north of the Alps. Köln. The banking capital of Germany and the European Union. see Chapter 19. reigns as the cultural capital of southwestern Germany. in part because it’s the point of entry for most visitors who fly into the country. Nuremberg has as many romantic corners as Heidelberg. This lively. only 40 minutes by train from Heidelberg.

August 15 (Assumption). and Weimar in eastern Germany. and Baden-Baden — are never more than three hours away by train. . Munich. Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Keep German holidays in mind when scheduling your trip. Nuremberg. ߜ From Berlin. and December 25 to 26 (Christmas). ߜ From Hamburg. Corpus Christi (ten days after Pentecost). Ascension Day (ten days before Pentecost/ Whitsunday. and November 1 (All Saints’ Day). you have easy access to the cities of Dresden. ߜ From Cologne. Many museums and attractions close on the following public holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day). ߜ From Munich. and Lindau on Lake Constance. Revealing the Secret of the Seasons How do you decide what time of year to travel to Germany? This section presents the pros and cons of each season. Frankfurt airport has its own train station. the seventh Sunday after Easter). and Oberammergau. and Berlin. the northern German cities of Lübeck and Bremen are a short train ride away. May 1 (Labor Day). October 3 (Day of German Unity). Füssen. Leipzig. in addition to Augsburg. You can also arrange for boat trips on the Rhine and visit the winegrowing regions by car or train. you can easily reach places in the Bavarian Alps. the latter of which has a new Delta direct flight from New York.30 Part I: Introducing Germany Scheduling Your Time If you’re flying into the country from outside of Europe. your airport choices are Frankfurt. an easy hour-and-a-half drive away (see Chapter 16 for more details). If a driving tour along the Romantic Road is part of your itinerary. so it’s possible to hop on a fast train at the airport and arrive almost anywhere in Germany within five hours or less of your arrival. including Neuschwanstein. November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance). rent a car at Frankfurt airport and drive to the beginning of the scenic route in Würzburg. If you want to explore all parts of the country. the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany). consider centering your itineraries in Berlin. Munich. Easter (including Good Friday and Easter Monday). Stuttgart. Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday). all the major cities of western Germany — Heidelberg. Hamburg. and Cologne. In addition. so you can choose the best time for your visit.

6 1. These trade fairs can put a real squeeze on hotel rooms. with a year-round schedule of major trade shows in all industries. bear in mind that the climate is constantly affected by colliding continental and maritime air masses from the Baltic and North seas.3 60 16 2. although I can give you a very broad overview of general weather patterns in Germany. for instance. As in many parts of the world.6 40 4 2. but from April through September. some locals claim that they now receive less snow and more rain than in decades past.) 30 –1 32 0 40 4 48 9 53 12 2. Average summer temperatures range from 72°F to 80°F (20°C–30°C). Most castles and palaces can be visited daily yearround. especially in the north. see Table 3-1 for Berlin in the north and Table 3-2 for Frankfurt in the south. °F Temp.2 49 9 1. Recent summers brought record-breaking heat waves and even in autumn many parts of Germany can be warmer than expected. Nearly all large German cities have a Messe.6 3. Watching those unpredictable skies Before I write about the weather in Germany. In northern Germany. In general. In the winter months. Germany has a predominantly mild. July and August may be less expensive because that’s when Germans take off on their own holidays. In southern Germany. or convention center/fairground. generally from October through March.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 31 Traveling during high and low seasons Roughly speaking. crowds and prices tend to rise during big trade fairs. resulting in plenty of unpredictable weather.9 64 18 62 17 56 13 2. °C Rainfall (in.7 .2 1. October and November and January through March are the low seasons. The country is most crowded during the months of May and June. and tourist offices have shorter hours and may be closed certain days of the week. the weather in Germany has become less predictable than in the past.4 34 1 1. some report a hotter and drier climate. The average winter temperature hovers around 32°F (0°C).2 1.9 2. castles. be prepared for variations. I think a disclaimer is in order. Overall. For average temperatures and rainfalls.2 2. museums. Table 3-1 Berlin’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Temp. like Neuschwanstein and Linderhof castles in Bavaria. may be more than two hours long. or the Reichstag dome in Berlin. the lines for major attractions. the high season for travel in Germany is from Easter to the end of September with another peak in December. temperate climate. That said. and many hotels consequently offer lower summer rates. So.

ߜ Blossoms appear on the fruit trees grown around the Bodensee and the Rhine. ߜ The carefully tended parks and gardens in German cities show off their first spring flowers.2 50 10 4. Blossoming in spring Spring comes earliest in the south and in the Rhine Valley. In the interior of Germany. rainy weather can last well into early summer in Berlin and other northern cities. heralds the approach of spring around the giant Bodensee (Lake Constance) and in the river valleys of the Black Forest and throughout southwestern Germany. The Föhn. though. the months that are least cloudy.1 5. especially around Easter.7 5. a dry south wind from the Alps. such as Lindau. .8 41 5 6.) 6. leaving May as an “inbetween” off-month: The weather in the Alps tends to be soggy and foggy at this time. ߜ During school holidays.32 Part I: Introducing Germany Table 3-2 Frankfurt’s Average Daytime Temperature and Rainfall Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 34 1 36 2 42 6 49 9 57 14 5.5 35 2 6 Temp. an early spring means that tables are set up in sunny squares and life begins to move outdoors. major attractions in cities throughout Germany tend to be more crowded. the least-gray months usually are June and September. Here are some of the season’s highlights: ߜ The warmth of springtime sun coaxes out the new vines in Germany’s Rhineland wine country. consider visiting in April and May.5 66 19 66 19 58 14 4. °F Temp. ߜ The snow in the Alps usually melts by April.6 5. you find asparagus specialties on menus everywhere.5 5. invigorating.1 If your trip includes northern Germany. ߜ May and June is Spargel (white asparagus) season throughout Germany. shall we say. ߜ In towns around Bodensee. Even with clear skies. But keep in mind these springtime pitfalls: ߜ Cold.0 5. the weather up north can remain.9 63 17 5. °C Rainfall (in.

However. wet winters. ߜ In traffic-jammed cities like Berlin. ߜ You can dine alfresco (outdoors) in most German cities. ߜ Getting into top attractions like Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace can take two hours or more. and thundery. Munich.m. In the north.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 33 Shining (and raining) in summer From April through September. mid. ߜ Air-conditioning is not common in Germany. gasoline and diesel exhaust can create air pollution on hot. Leipzig. But keep in mind: ߜ Airfare tends to be higher during summer months. Summer in the north comes later and remains variable because of maritime influences from the North and Baltic seas. Indian summer. and Berlin become more inviting as warm weather settles in. and the landlocked eastern portion of the country. humid. . and other river valleys turn golden as the days grow shorter. ߜ Warm summer nights stay light much longer. and Frankfurt. or sometimes later. Some summer perks to consider: ߜ Prices for hotels often are lower in July and August. In southern and western Germany. ߜ Lakes in the Alps. Autumn days are beautiful in scenic Bavaria. making this a perfect time to explore the Romantic Road.and late-summer days can become hot. heralding gray. or what the Germans call Altweibersommer (old women’s summer). local winds. windless days. vines turn yellow. around Cologne and even as far north as Berlin. which also can be the case in Dresden. Neckar. until 10 p. after the grape harvest. The deciduous trees in the Black and Thuringian forests and along the Rhine. the Black Forest. autumn is likely to be rainy and blustery. ߜ Heat and humidity can make for sticky sightseeing throughout central and southern Germany. Summer weather in the Bavarian Alps is extremely variable and changes according to altitude. mild weather in southern Germany. Glowing in autumn Fall is one of the best times to visit Germany. you can generally count on warm. ߜ Many attractions are open longer hours. and the orientation of individual valleys to the sun. hotels and concert halls can be broiling. ߜ Outdoor musical performances and street fairs take place in many cities and regions. frequently makes a welcome appearance during October and November.

and the Rhineland glow with autumn hues. ߜ The smell of new wine fills the old streets of winegrowing towns. ߜ Almost everything shuts down on December 25 and 26 and New Year’s Day. Both the Alps and the Black Forest are known for their fine skiing and winter sports. But winter has its downside: ߜ Brrr. ߜ In the weeks before Lent. and baked delights. . and other events swings into high gear. ߜ Although you’ll be comfortable in your hotel. ߜ Towns in winegrowing areas celebrate with wine festivals. handcrafted goods. This season has only one real drawback: Autumn may be gray and rainy.m. especially in the north. ߜ Scenic areas like the Black Forest. symphony. ߜ Germany’s cultural calendar of opera. ߜ Giant beer festivals transform Munich and Stuttgart. snow doesn’t stay on the ground for long. numbing. lending a special air to the country’s many Christmas markets. especially in the north. cities throughout the country set up magical outdoor Christmas markets where you find tree ornaments. ߜ Airfares usually drop.34 Part I: Introducing Germany A few advantages of autumn: ߜ Summer crowds have thinned out by the end of September. the Bavarian Alps. The cold can be raw. and often turns into sleet. ߜ When the snow starts to fall in the Alps and the Black Forest. Winter can be wonderful because: ߜ In December. Germans tend to underheat rather than overheat their spaces. Welcoming winter Snow can fall anywhere in Germany. skiers head for the slopes and cross-country trails. This story is different in the Bavarian Alps and the Black Forest. and seemingly endless. Cologne and Munich celebrate with citywide carnivals (Fasching). where the winter weather is colder and snow adds to the beauty of the mountain and forest landscapes. But with winter temperatures hovering right around freezing. ߜ Daylight drops dramatically: Darkness falls as early as 3:30 or 4 p.

and in other churches and concert halls. Verifying dates beforehand with the German National Tourist Board is a good idea. Last week in May to the first week in June. A week in and Munich (% 089/ www. May through July. Fasching (Carnival) festivals take place in Catholic cities throughout Germany. www. The renowned Bachfest/Bach Festival (% 0341/913-7333. Goarshausen) illuminate their castles and set off fireworks. For in Leipzig features performances of Johann Sebastian Bach’s work in the famous Thomaskirche. including concerts. Goar and lasts for a week and showcases the work of international film directors in addition to the latest German or call or write for a free calendar of events. contact Tourist Information (% 09861/40492.berlinale. first week of February The well-respected Berlin International Film Festival (% 030/25920.muenchen-tourist. and St. January 1. January New Year’s Day International Ski Jumping. Second week in February. May Hamburg Summer is a summer-long series of cultural events. On special Saturday nights during Rhein im Feuerzauber (Rhine in Flames). in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/180-700. www. The best .Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 35 Perusing a Calendar of Events Germany hums year-round with festivals and special events of all kinds. festivals. is one of Europe’s major winter sporting events. For are particularly famous. Events take place twice a year. where he was choirmaster. During the Historisches Festspiel (Historic Festival). contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. www. See the appendix for the tourist board’s contact information. Third week in May. www. Bingen and Rüdesheim. reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday. www.bachleipzig. Rothenburg ob der Tauber celebrates the story of how a brave citizen saved the town from destruction by drinking a huge tankard of wine (an event called Der Meistertrunk). Celebrations in Cologne (% 0221/9433. plays.rothenburg. Check its Web site (www.garmisch-partenkirchen. various towns along the Rhine (between Bonn and Linz. and special exhibitions. Koblenz and Braubach.

festspiele. takes place in the composer’s famous Festspielhaus (opera house). a big Frankish folk festival in Nuremberg (% 0911/468-600. www. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/388-1880. de). last weekend in June. MidJuly to early and street in Bayreuth. Enjoy vintages from the surrounding Black Forest area during Freiburg im Breisgau’s Public Wine Tasting. heidelberg. performances. Last week in August through first week in September. Late July to late August. Berlin. first weekend in June.36 Part I: Introducing Germany vantage point is from a riverboat on the shmf. August During Weinkost (Food and Wine Fair) in Freiburg im Breisgau. Mid-August. takes place in the Rhine village most famous for red wines. the Richard Wagner Festival (% 0921/78780. Berlin and Cologne have the largest Gay Pride log on to www. Last weekend in June. mid-July. log on to www. www. and early For details. contact Heidelberg Tourist-Information. gay-web. Unfortunately.freiburg. For events in Berlin. Early June. opera tickets must be booked years in advance. June Fireworks enliven the sky in the romantic university city of Heidelberg during the Floodlighting of the Castle. The Traditional Rüdesheim Wine local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district and regional food specialties. . features folk music. www. For information. Events take place in the Münsterplatz surrounding Freiburg’s magnificent cathedral. classical concerts take place in venues in and around the lovely old city of Lü During the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival (% 0800/7463-2002. Cologne. in Rüdesheim am Rhein. May through contact the German National Tourist Board (see the appendix for contact info). July One of Europe’s major opera events. Mid-August. contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau (% 06722/19433). for events in Cologne. and events for the whole family. contact Freiburg Tourist Information (% 0761/ one of the best music festivals in Germany. Nürnberger Herbsfest (Fall Festival). Pavillon (% 06221/19433. www.freiburg. For information. jazz concerts. For more information. www. For information. featuring parades.

de) for more details. For more information. First week in November. www. and shows. is the biggest public event in northern rides. Hamburger Dom (also called Winter Dom). attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists. happens mostly in September. www.000 beer drinkers. October The largest book fair in for information. For information. staged at the Philharmonie. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. One of the high points on the cultural calendar of Germany. Events. and theatrical presentations. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. Contact the tourist information office (% 0711/222-8259. September through mid-October. For information. is a major event in the world of international book publishing. where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to 6. Mid-October. contact TourismusZentrale (% 040/3005-1201.oktoberfest. . not October. September Munich’s Oktoberfest (www. Contact Berlin Tourist Information (% 0190/016-316. November The annual Jazz-Fest Berlin. which take place around Binnenalster Lake. contact Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg (% 040/3005-1201. Most activities occur at Theresienwiese.Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 37 Arts and pleasure abound during Hamburg’s Alstervergnügen (Alster Pleasures).frankfurt-book-fair. Late September. contact the Stuttgart tourist information office (% 0711/2228259. begins with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes and features food. Dating back to 1818. Last weekend in August. www. Mid-September to the first Sunday in October. and visitors pack hotels. the Berliner Festwochen (Berlin Festival) brings an international roster of performing artists to Berlin for opera. www. an annual amusement fair at Hamburg’s Germany’s most famous festival. Last week in August. www. www. Millions show up. wine lovers converge on Schillerplatz to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. November 9 to December At the Stuttgart Wine Festival. include food stalls. the 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. and tents for beer the Frankfurt Book Fair (% 069/21010.

Contact the individual tourist offices of each city. Munich. Nuremberg. and Stuttgart. You find them in Cologne. Dresden. Frankfurt. among other cities. “Christ Child Market”). generally called a Weihnachtsmarkt (Weihnachten means Christmas) or a Christkindlmarkt (literally. . Late November or early December until Christmas. takes place in town squares throughout Germany. for details (see the appendix for contact information).38 Part I: Introducing Germany December A Christmas Market. or the German National Tourist Board. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Leipzig.

(See Chapter 1 for some preliminary information on what the country offers. some of these itineraries are more enjoyable if you have a car. If you haven’t visited a destination before. I lay out some suggested travel itineraries for those with limited time or with special interests. You can go up to the top of the Rathaus tower for a bird’s-eye view. I include two of King Ludwig II’s castles and a brief stop in Cologne. Shake out your plane-cramped legs by taking to the streets for some general exploration. on the Rhine. and Chapter 12 for Berlin.) Although you can reach all the destinations in this chapter by train or public transportation. Browse around and find a place for lunch from among the dozens of possibilities in the area.Chapter 4 Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options In This Chapter ᮣ Seeing Germany’s top attractions in one or two weeks ᮣ Discovering Germany with your kids ᮣ Planning trips for wine aficionados P utting together a good itinerary is one of the hardest parts of any trip. Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week This seven-day itinerary. watch the Glockenspiel. Spend Day 1 in marvelous Munich. the city’s main square. and visit the nearby Frauenkirche. Munich’s largest church. For more information about the sights that I mention. Head first for Marienplatz. Chapter 16 for the Bavarian Alps and its castles. see Chapter 7. how do you know what’s worth seeing and what isn’t? In this chapter. Then walk over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt. Afterward. see Chapter 15 for Munich. shows you the contrasts between southern Germany and northern Germany and introduces you to the country’s two greatest cities. make your way to the . one of the greatest food markets in Europe. Chapter 19 for Cologne. beginning in Munich and ending in Berlin. For details on getting around the country.

which displays an international collection of 20th-century masterpieces. head to the Bavarian Alps. which you can reach by streetcar. for a spectacular view of the Alps. Spend the night in Garmisch. You need the entire morning to wander through the enormous Residenz in central Munich. Oberammergau. you can easily explore some of the sights along the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road). a showcase for 19thcentury German and European art. Then. Start Day 2 in a palace. Munich’s largest and prettiest park. have dinner at the fun-loving Hofbräuhaus. choose a museum to visit. the town closest to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles. In the afternoon. Wander through this small Bavarian town. you can make an easy excursion to the Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). Or you can take a train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and ascend the Zugspitze. In the afternoon. You can dine near the parking area below Neuschwanstein. the brand-new Pinakothek Moderne Kunst. Tours of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castle take about one hour. If you’re without a car. Ludwig II’s Frenchinspired castle. make your way to the famous Deutsches Museum. Ludwig’s childhood home. Germany’s highest peak. take a bus from Oberammergau to Schloss Linderhof. the closest town to Linderhof Palace. and be sure to take time to stroll around the lovely historic district of town. creator of Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle. which includes the bizarrely ornate sleighs and coaches used by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. visit adjacent Hohenschwangau Castle. If you rent a car. which is famous for its woodcarvers. just south of Munich.40 Part I: Introducing Germany Asamkirche for a glimpse of the baroque ornamentation for which southern Germany is famous. and the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Have lunch near Marienplatz. If you’re in the mood for oom-pah-pah. From Garmisch. this castle quickly fills up with tourists as the day wears on. Spend the night in Füssen. If you’re driving. If you’re an art lover. so you may want to end your evening at a concert or the opera. you can easily get a bus from Füssen for the 6. If you’re without wheels. If you’re interested in science and technology.5km (4-mile) trip to the castle. as Germany’s most popular tourist attraction. the trip is only 40 minutes by train or car to Oberammergau. By train from Oberammergau. On Day 4. . the trip takes a little more than an hour. and be sure to visit the collection of carriages. Three possibilities are the Neue Pinakothek. You can bring a picnic or order a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. Make Neuschwanstein your top priority. a beautiful baroque masterpiece located just a few miles north of Füssen. if you’re still in a “royal” mood. make your way to Füssen. you may want to see the priceless collection of old masters at the Alte Pinakotheke. choose another museum to visit. Special cog railways and cable cars can take you up and bring you back down. or Füssen. If you choose Nymphenburg. Munich is one of Germany’s top cultural capitals. whose wares you may want to purchase. the location for Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. Or make an easy excursion to beautiful Schloss Nymphenburg. allow some extra time to wander through the gardens. On Day 3. At some point. fit in a stroll in the bucolic Englischer Garten.

call German Rail at % 11861).de). dedicated to the Romans who made Cologne one of their strategic forts nearly 2.) You’ll see Cologne’s greatest sight — the enormous Gothic Dom (cathedral) — as you step out of the train station.severin-kuehn-berlin. Cologne’s delicious beer). the symbol of the city. Settle into your hotel and then take one of the sightseeing bus tours of the city — otherwise you’ll see only a fraction of this enormous metropolis. The city has an excellent music scene. the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. you may be able to return the vehicle in Füssen. make your way over to Potsdamer Platz. From either city. displaying old and modern masters. (By fast train. such as the Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum). sophisticated Berlin has endless things to do. or a cabaret. too. Stay overnight in Cologne and have dinner at one of the city’s famous beer halls (be sure to sample Kölsch. so come back later if the line is long. Chapter 14 for Dresden. For detailed information on the cities and sights that I mention. and Weimar. East Side. Take the elevator up to the new dome on top of the Reichstag — the dome is open late. After your tour. so when darkness falls you may want to attend an opera. From Potsdamer Platz. and Museum Ludwig. hop on the train and make your way to Köln (Cologne) for Day 5. a concert. Then walk east down Unter den Linden to Museumsinsel (Museum Island). West Side: Germany in Two Weeks What a treat — two weeks to take in the sights! This suggested itinerary makes a clockwise circuit of Germany. for train information and schedules. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. On the morning of Day 6. or you can drive back to Munich and return it there. the fastest train from Füssen takes about 7 hours. take one of the sleek. the new quarter where the Berlin Wall once stood. and the Reichstag. Berlin is famed for its nightlife. Enjoy the afternoon in this lively Rhine-side city by visiting the cathedral and one or two of its many fine museums. Then stroll down the Ku-Damm. so you can take advantage of the morning by going over to the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) to see the world-famous bust of Egyptian queen Nefertiti. entirely devoted to 20th-century and contemporary art. You can also take a sightseeing boat ride along the Rhine. western Berlin’s renowned boulevard. the country’s parliamentary headquarters. Huge. check out Chapter 12 for Berlin and Potsdam. superfast trains to Berlin (the trains depart from the Cologne Hauptbahnhof. Chapter 15 for . so you may want to see an opera or attend a concert. To book a bus tour. Here’s hoping your flight home departs sometime in the afternoon on Day 7. and stop in at the Pergamon Museum or the Altes Museum with their fantastic collections of antiquities. www. The trip from Cologne is under 41⁄2 hours. contact Severin+Kühn. you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. the trip from Munich takes about 51⁄2 hours.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 41 If you have your car for a two-day rental. before making your way to the airport. Leipzig.000 years ago.

de). the most famous is the Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum). is the starting point on Day 1 of your two-week tour of Deutschland. variety shows. you can walk to Friedrichstrasse. You want to give yourself at least four hours for this excursion. which was ruled by the Communists until 1990. an easy trip from Berlin by S-Bahn. Germany’s capital and largest city. Chapter 16 for Bavaria and its castles. the Residenzschloss. and Chapter 18 for Heidelberg and Nuremberg. of course. a vast collection of treasures accrued by Saxon rulers. the most famous boulevard in this part of the city. and wander into the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas’ Quarter) before you head up to the Museumsinsel (Museum Island) to visit the Pergamon Museum and/or the Altes Museum. Devote your afternoon to exploring eastern Berlin. visit one of Berlin’s great museums. countless bars and clubs. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. Head over to the Charlottenburg neighborhood for a tour of Schloss (Palace) Charlottenburg and a stroll through the palace gardens. on the Elbe River about two hours south of Berlin by train. so start the morning by taking one of the sightseeing bus tours. Then spend a while strolling in the Tiergarten. which displays the stunning bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. contact Severin+Kühn. Berlin is an enormous city. Several museums are in and around the palace. you see a different side of Germany (literally) in the eastern cities of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). Start at Potsdamer Platz. Plenty of entertainment options exist for the evening. or take the S-Bahn (the city’s system of elevated trains) to Hackescher Markt.severin-kuehn-berlin.42 Part I: Introducing Germany Munich. Spend the morning of Day 3 at Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam. From Museumsinsel. In Dresden. the most famous boulevard in western Berlin. www. a beautiful neoclassical square. You can eat near the palace or back in Berlin. Eastern Berlin has numerous attractions: Make sure that you stop at the Gendarmenmarkt. Have something fun lined up for the evening: Berlin has three opera houses. Berlin. Head back to the Kurfürstendamm (known as Ku-Damm). On Day 4. you want to focus your attention on the Albertinum. the . then head over to the Reichstag and take the elevator up to the new dome for a view of the city. is one of the great art cities of Germany. Afterward. left as a colossal ruin after the devastation of World War II. the upscale shopping street. a pre–World War I quarter that now features several smart cafes and shops. In the afternoon. walk to the Brandenburg Gate and head east down Unter den Linden. and. cabarets. Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee. such as the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) or the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). the most historic part of the city. Spend Day 2 on the western side of the city. Stop by the Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church). Berlin’s most famous park. three major symphony orchestras. to book one. Dresden. which includes a tour of Frederick the Great’s rococo palace and a walk through the landscaped grounds. for lunch or to find a cafe for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake).

and the Zwinger. you may want to take an excursion boat along the Elbe into the area known as Saxon Switzerland. the next stop on this itinerary. the city’s main square. fast trains take less than an hour to reach Weimar. too. From Dresden on Day 5. where he is buried.” With only two days. a vaulted underground restaurant. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe’s House).to 41⁄2-hour trips take place daily. In 2005. Enjoy a dinner of regional food in the famous Auerbachs Keller. Johann Sebastian Bach was the choirmaster of the famous Thomaskirche (St. hop on a train for Leipzig. the most important being the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery). and the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) examines all aspects of life in the GDR from 1945 to 1989. you won’t want to miss seeing a performance at the Semper Opera House. Stay overnight in Weimar. The city has two unusual museums that shed light on the GDR era: The Museum in der Runden Ecke documents the methods of the dreaded Stasi. is the Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial). your destination for Day 6. the journey takes about five hours. Weimar was one of Germany’s great centers of art and culture during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Weimar has its dark side. only an hour away. a restored royal palace that is home to four museums. Your destination for Day 7 is delightful Munich. Visit the scene of Duchess Anna Amalia’s glittering salons in the Wittumspalais. Spend the night in Dresden. you have to make some decisions about what to see. If you’re an opera lover. on the site of a Nazi-era concentration camp. or take the train to Munich. Make it a point to see the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady).Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 43 new home of the famed treasury known as the Green Vault. In the early 20th century. which reopened in 2006 after being painstakingly restored. pretty city. lived here. 3. the great German dramatist Friedrich Schiller. and the Bach Museum is dedicated to his life and works. bustling city with a long musical tradition. Germany’s “secret capital. Start your explorations at Marienplatz. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and his friend. Not far from the city center. Choose a museum you’d especially like to visit: Most visitors make the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters . the Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) moved into a building close to Marktplatz. This small. Thomas Church). filled with leafy parks and neoclassical buildings. you can visit the small Bauhaus Museum. and then head over to the adjacent Viktualienmarkt to wander through this wonderland of an outdoor market. From April through September. Otherwise (or afterward). Leipzig is a busy. East Germany’s secret police. If you love symphonic music. a “city palace” near Goethe’s house. be sure to reserve a seat to hear the worldfamous Gewandhaus Orchestra. is one of Germany’s literary meccas. From Leipzig. portions of which have been left much as they were in his lifetime. the town’s liveliest square. is the town’s most visited site. the Bauhaus School of Art and Design operated in Weimar. today.

if the afternoon is fine. Lindau’s sunny charms are reminiscent of Italy. stay overnight in Füssen or return to Munich. Stay overnight in Munich. If you have a car. You can also visit neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle. devoted to science and industry. Germany’s sunny southwestern corner comes as a surprise to many visitors. where Ludwig spent his childhood. the trip to Lindau for Day 10 is about three hours by train. exploring the Bavarian Alps along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse (German Alpine Road). the country’s largest lake and one of the largest bodies of water in Europe. This upscale. The charming and lively university town of Freiburg is about three hours by train from Lindau. On Day 9. 6. Spend the day strolling in the sun (if the sun cooperates). You’ve no doubt heard about the Schwarzwald. sample one of the city’s many entertainment options. its hiking and recreational sports facilities. Munich’s gigantic “in town” palace. take in another museum. enjoy a stroll through Füssen’s lovely historic quarter. symphony. is one of Germany’s premier spa towns. and its cuckoo clocks. This wine town has vineyards nearby and yearly wine festivals.5km (4 miles) from the most famous tourist attraction in all of Germany: Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle. or taking a boat ride on the lake to the garden island of Mainau. or Black Forest. If you opt for Baden-Baden. You need at least two hours to visit the entire complex. you may want to consider renting a car for the next four days. or Lake Constance. Freiburg’s lovely Münster (cathedral) and its surrounding square constitute the main sights in town. many expensive shops. Take your pick of cities to stay in. beer halls. Even if you’re driving from Füssen. about 11⁄2 hours farther north by train. visit the nearby Wieskirche (Church in the Meadow). a world-famous baroque masterpiece. But first. Stay overnight in Munich. This scenic area of forested hills. By car or train. and mountains in the southwestern corner of Germany is famed for its health resorts. travel time is about the same. If you have a car. The area has no important museums. but the Deutsches Museum. you can continue on to Lindau. If you’re without a car. Give yourself some leeway with time because the crowds can be dense. is one of the most popular museums in the country. Here you find the Bodensee. From Munich or Füssen. and a famous casino. stroll in the lovely Englischer Garten and stop for a drink or a meal at the park’s famous beer garden. from Munich make your way to Füssen. but doing so is not essential. Then. . pop concerts. sitting under an umbrella at a cafe. At night. and clubs. valleys. theater. your destination on Day 11. you can happily spend a few hours strolling through old streets lined by Bächle (little streams). swimming. You have innumerable ways to spend the evening in this cultural mecca: opera. Start Day 8 with a self-guided tour of the Residenz. beer gardens. Some small Bavarian village with a cozy Gasthaus (guesthouse) may catch your fancy. After lunch near Marienplatz. so just take it easy. resort-oriented town offers fine hotels and restaurants.44 Part I: Introducing Germany Gallery) their top priority. In Freiburg. Baden-Baden.

which covers the entire spectrum of German fine arts from its prehistoric beginnings to the present day. On Day 12.) Sit back and enjoy the scenery. some aspects of traveling in Germany — taking a train. where your tour began. Then take a relaxing boat ride down the Neckar. You face difficulties in the basic areas of food choices and sightseeing options. head back to Berlin. (Alternatively. the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). And then. you can fly home from Frankfurt. or from Munich. As in many German cities. make your way to Heidelberg. just wander around without an itinerary. If you have time in any of these cities before your flight departs. you can pay a few euros more and request an extra bed. formal restaurant awaiting the main course. Everyone seems to love this ancient university town on the Neckar River. the entire Altstadt is a pedestrian zone. especially on a warm evening when your table is in the courtyard near the fountain. Discovering Germany with Kids Face it: Traveling with kids isn’t easy. Stop in at the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate) for a look at Tilman Riemenschneider’s powerfully carved altarpiece. Luckily. When it comes time to eat. The Altstadt (Old Town) is where you want to stay and where you want to wander. but you can take a tour of some restored rooms. as it’s known in English). . a 125-year-old mineralbath establishment. On Day 13. to catch your flight home. Some hotels let children stay for free in their parents’ room. which is less than an hour by train from Baden-Baden or 21⁄2 to 3 hours from Freiburg. I slant this very general itinerary toward outdoor activities and give other options only when they seem relevant. a little more than two hours by train from Nuremberg. No kid I know wants to spend two hours wandering around a museum admiring old master paintings. Find a cafe to sit and people-watch while you plan your next trip to Germany. hop on the Bahn (train) in Heidelberg and in 31⁄2 to 4 hours. a picturesque area alongside the Pegnitz River. at the ones that don’t. under two hours from Nuremberg. and fine Gothic churches. or seated in a quiet. The castle is mostly in ruins. On Day 14. one of the most attractive towns in Germany.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 45 be sure to “take the waters” at Friedrichsbad. The museum’s restaurant is one of the nicest places to dine in Heidelberg. You find squares with lovely fountains. Give yourself at least two hours to visit the marvelous Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum). the experience takes about 31⁄2 hours. if you’re in the mood. The train ride from Nuremberg is about 51⁄2 hours. for example. or visiting a castle — appeal to kids just because of the novelty. stop at the Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) for a glimpse of the toys for which this city has long been famous. you’re in Nürnberg (or Nuremberg. Hike or take the funicular train up the hillside to the famed Heidelberg Castle for a stunning view of the town and the river valley.

dance in the meadows. Germany’s highest peak (2. By car or train make your way to Lindau.). Here you’re going to ascend the Zugspitze. “Mad” Ludwig’s fairy-tale castle. the city’s main square. You also can reach the castle by bus or horse-drawn cab. Later. Spend Day 1 in Munich. the largest science and technology museum in the world. Public transportation is a priority in every German city. where you can wander along the tree-shaded walks. the area around Garmisch-Partenkirchen is magnificent hiking country. Alternatively. Most hikes take an energetic four to five hours. including an 18th-century swimming pool and a baroque hunting lodge. Stay overnight in Füssen and explore the charming old town on foot.46 Part I: Introducing Germany look for casual bistros. on the spire of the Rathaus. one of the largest and most beautiful city parks in Europe. The Schloss (palace) is a breeze to get to (it’s right in the city on the streetcar line). If you didn’t make it to the Deutsches Museum the day before. you’ll also find American-style fast-food restaurants in all midsize and large cities). The view from the summit is — what else? — spectacular. The area around . If you’re a dedicated hiker. or sit in the famous beer garden (nonalcoholic refreshments available for the kids). and some intriguing buildings. It’s loaded with interesting stuff for kids and adults. and 500-acre Nymphenburg Park is grand and inviting. Good skiing and ice-skating are available all winter. cafes. French-style gardens behind the palace and an English-style park with quiet meadows. Just remember one thing: Wellbehaved children are smiled upon in Germany. while there. or even outdoor food stands (yes. A cog railway and a cable car take you up and bring you back — a fascinating treat for kids. Stay overnight in Garmisch. the other kind are not. Bodensee (Lake Constance) is your destination for Day 5. You can find plenty of outdoor cafes around Marienplatz. with easy access and reduced rates for kids. forested paths.720 ft. so you and the kids can easily walk everywhere. Schloss Nymphenburg is on the top of your list. with formal. On Day 2. head over to the kid-friendly Deutsche Museum. Lindau is virtually car-free. you may want to take a train or subway over to the Englischer Garten (English Garden). On Day 3. Germany’s mostvisited tourist attraction perches on a rocky spur that requires a good uphill hike to reach.m. you can rent a car or take the train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps south of Munich. the best outdoor market in Germany and a great place to have a casual lunch. and then drive or take a bus to Neuschwanstein. you can head over there in the afternoon. a sunny flower-filled resort town that sits on its own small island in the Bodensee. Right next to Marienplatz is the Viktualienmarkt. Drive or take the train to Füssen on Day 4.960m/9. but some of them are shorter and easy enough for children. The forested hills all around Neuschwanstein and neighboring Hohenschwangau Castle are full of excellent hiking paths. The entire inner city is a car-free pedestrian zone where you and your kids can stroll with ease. be sure to catch the Glockenspiel show at 11 a.

You can bike along the shore or relax on an excursion boat ride to the island of Mainau. Spend the night in Lindau. the toast often is a simple “Prosit!” (pronounced prohst).600 acres of vineyards. Or you can take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz. light Silvaner wine is an ideal accompaniment to Spargel (white asparagus) in May. a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine between the towns of Biebrich and Bingen. you can stop at two Black Forest lakes. The Mosel Valley. a scenic winegrowing region. dine at Zum Roten Bären. is another scenic winegrowing region and your destination on Day 3. On Day 7 make your way back to Frankfurt or Munich for the trip home. a famous mile-high peak with spectacular views of the Rhine plain.450m (4. you can hop on a train on Day 1 and be in Freiburg in about two hours. the city celebrates with a four-day wine festival that includes public tastings. You may want to incorporate this four-day itinerary into a longer trip. wine has been produced since Roman times. with stops for short hikes and cable-car rides to the top of the Belchen. a volcanic massif. The trip begins and ends in Frankfurt. The young. From Frankfurt airport. You can drive through this area on a daytrip from Cologne. a plant-lover’s paradise. In the Rheingau wine district. Most of the grapes grow on the warm lower slopes of the nearby Kaiserstühl (Emperor’s Throne). southwest of Cologne. If you’re traveling by train. For more information. the oldest inn in Freiburg. From Cologne. On the last weekend in June.750-ft. the Schluchsee and Titisee. Ride the train or drive north to Freiburg. Freiburg. The valley follows the course of . I suggest that you rent a car for just one day. Rheingau Rieslings rank among the best white wines made anywhere. is surrounded by 1. a lively university town in the Black Forest. by car or boat. How about that — the kids actually had a good time! Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers When you raise a glass of wine in Germany. The train trip from Freiburg takes about four hours. From Freiburg you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Schwarzwald. On this drive. more than any other city in Germany.Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options 47 Bodensee is Germany’s sunniest corner. your headquarters in the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) on Day 6.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. Or you may want to rent a car in Frankfurt for the duration of the trip. you can explore the neighboring wine country. This itinerary takes you to the wine regions in western Germany. and the lake is clean enough for swimming. For a great meal with regional wines. see Chapter 17 for the Black Forest and the Bodensee and Chapter 19 for Cologne and sights along the Rhine. and to the 1. Weinkost is another wine-tasting event in mid-August. Head to Cologne on the River Rhine for Day 2.

both a hotel and a wine restaurant. celebrates the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair.48 Part I: Introducing Germany the Mosel River for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. Between late April and the third week in October. make your way back to Frankfurt on Day 4. The half-timbered Alte Thorschenke in Cochem. . you can continue your tasting tour of Germany. a picturesque wine village surrounded by vineyards and a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. The easiest way to enjoy a cruise down the Mosel River is to take a train to Koblenz. look for the local Weinstube (wine tavern). From Cochem. Beautiful scenery and fine wines make this a prime area for leisurely exploration. cruises depart daily from Koblenz to Cochem. is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. which takes place the first week in June. If you have a few more days. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). a convivial spot to sample Germany’s many fine vintages. or Freiburg. Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. Wherever you go. Cologne.

Part II Planning Your Trip to Germany .

. explaining what hotel rack rates are. . In Chapter 8. gay and lesbian travelers. car. In Chapter 7. and how to get the best fare. plane. his part helps you with the practical details of planning your trip to Germany.T In this part . money — so you have an approximate idea of what things cost and how to use ATMs. I go over the transportation options for getting you to Germany. and offering suggestions for landing the best room at the best price. and Jewish travelers. . guided and package tours. I offer advice and tips for visitors with special needs and interests: families traveling with children. seniors. using cellphones and staying connected by e-mail in Germany. I tell you about traveling through Germany by train. and adhering to airport security measures. outlining the kinds of hotels and guesthouses that you’ll find. In Chapter 5. In Chapter 6. and boat. credit cards. I discuss all the various accommodations options. including information on which airlines fly into Germany. I load Chapter 10 with information about getting a passport. I get into the nittygritty of Geld — that is. buying travel and medical insurance. In Chapter 9. or traveler’s checks.

Although you may think a trip to Germany is prohibitively expensive because of the transatlantic flight. or Los Angeles. and so on. meaning money). meals. So this chapter is all about Geld (pronounced gelt. To come up with a workable figure. you often can find bargain airfares to Frankfurt and Munich. But can you really afford the trip? At this point. Transportation costs Your first big outlay is going to be for airfare. In Chapter 6. hotels. and credit cards ᮣ Dealing with theft and loss ᮣ Paying and recouping German sales tax ᮣ Knowing when — and how — to tip S o. traveler’s checks. You may have heard that Germany is an expensive country — but just how expensive? What does a hotel in Munich cost? How much does a train ticket cost for travel from Berlin down to Bavaria. the two German airports with several direct international flights. you need to break down your trip into its various components: airfare. the two most expensive German cities — can actually cost less than a trip to New York.Chapter 5 Managing Your Money In This Chapter ᮣ Planning a realistic budget for your trip ᮣ Changing your dollars into euros ᮣ Using ATMs. transportation while there. for instance? And how much is a meal in a nice restaurant after you get there? This chapter points you toward all the answers. I provide vital clues on how to create a realistic budget that works for you. You’re excited and eager to pack. In the following sections. your trip to Germany — even if you visit Munich and/or Berlin. I tell you about flying to Germany and help you with some strategies for finding . a financial reality check is in order. Planning Your Budget Planning a budget for your trip to Germany isn’t as difficult as you may think. Adding everything up. you want to go to Germany. entertainment. San Francisco.

such as Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. From New York or Boston. . but so is finding flights that cost a whole lot more. I can tell you that finding a nonstop. or by going online to www. you probably can find flights for $400 to $800 in low season and $700 to $1. and Cologne all have subway systems called the U-Bahn (short for Untergrundbahn. That saves you a bundle. Please note that these are ballpark figures for economy-class seats found by using every cost-saving trick in the book. I talk more about these cost-cutting train passes and the popular Eurailpass in Chapter 7. In smaller towns and cities of Germany. Hamburg. having a car makes exploration of the countryside much easier. You can order them through a travel agent or by calling Rail Europe at % 888-382-7245 in the United States. that in some areas. I mention these moneysaving cards in the city sections of this guide whenever they’re available and worthwhile. Special reduced-price transportation passes are good for a full day (Tageskarten) or longer on all forms of public transportation. The passes make getting around German cities fairly inexpensive (approximately $6–$8 per day).000 in high season. U-Bahns are fast. 800-361-7245 in Canada. Munich. You can also tour by train throughout the whole of Germany without ever renting a car. Based on my own experience. because city centers are so compact and close to the train stations.raileurope. and easy to use. you may need to take a local bus or taxi from the nearest town (Füssen. If you’re planning to travel around Germany by train. convenient.S. If you’re traveling by train and want to see some of Germany’s great Here’s some good news: You won’t need to rent a car in any German city because public transportation is so good.200 during high season. for Neuschwanstein) to the castle. Many larger cities have special passes that include public transportation and free or reduced-price admission to various attractions. The historic inner-city area of German cities nearly always is called the Altstadt. including advance purchase. The same cities also have light-rail or aboveground trains called the S-Bahn and a system of trams or streetcars and buses. Frankfurt. you can hop on a bus or tram. to Frankfurt is possible for about $600 to $900 during low season and $800 to $1. Finding flights that cost less is quite possible. however. round-trip fare from a major city on the West Coast of the U.52 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the cheapest airline fares. such as Bavaria and the Black Forest. If you don’t want to walk. Berlin. you can walk almost everywhere. Keep in mind. you can save money by buying a German Rail Pass before you leave home. or underground train). or Old Town. The next transportation expense to consider is dependent upon how you plan to travel around Germany after you arrive.

offer bed. Outside of Munich and Berlin. That cost will be higher in Munich and Berlin than anywhere else in Germany. 2-star. Munich. In some cases. is going to cost. isn’t the only cuisine you’ll find in Germany. Make sure to ask about special deals wherever you stay. and elsewhere offer special fixed-price meals that can be real bargains. As a general rule. generally from 80€ to 150€ ($100–$188) per double room per night. . traditional German food also is ganz schmackhaftig (very tasty). generally are less than 125€ ($156). See Chapter 8 for information on what to expect in each price range and for a discussion of your lodging options and how to get the best rate. and so on). Food in Germany often is characterized as heavy. Traditional food. But because rates vary from one hotel to the next. Although that may be true. hotel rates are lower. lunch. and expensive hotels cost from 176€ to 225€ ($220–$281). however. Overall. however. giving a reliable average is difficult. breakfast. depending on their respective government-appointed categories (1-star. But you can still find plenty of opportunities to drop a king’s ransom for a hotel. For the recommendations in this guide. In nearly every town and village throughout Germany. large cities like Berlin and Munich have emerged as international food capitals. but you’ll find that many of the best restaurants in Berlin. you’ll find that hotels throughout Germany are reasonably priced (and practically a bargain when compared to prices in other European countries). the price drops so dramatically that you can stay in a double room at a five-star luxury hotel for less than 175€ ($219) per night. however. In recent years. the rates at inexpensive hotels in Munich or Berlin. Of course. including breakfast. you can always find a double room in a good hotel in Germany for less than 150€ ($188) a night and sometimes for less than 100€ ($125) a night. a Weinstube (restaurant where wine is the primary beverage served). you can find a Ratskeller (restaurant beneath a town hall). the major cities. Nearly all hotels throughout Germany (except for boutique or 5-star luxury hotels) include a buffet breakfast as part of the room rate.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 53 Lodging expenses A large piece of your budget will be the cost of your hotel or other accommodations. and a full dinner at bargain prices. eating at top restaurants. hotels offer special price breaks for weekends (Wochenende) and during the summer (generally July and Aug). a beer hall. no matter where you are. Many hotels in the Bavarian countryside. After that. especially in some of the truly elegant five-star properties. for instance. or some other kind of nonfancy restaurant where you can dine inexpensively and well and where you can enjoy your meal among the locals. Moderate hotels run from 126€ to 175€ ($158–$218). you hit the high end of 226€ ($282) and up. Throughout the country.

Fortunately. In fact. Kurfürstendamm or Unter den Linden. When eating lunch and dinner at moderately priced restaurants in Berlin. The major cities — Berlin. food is more expensive in big cities like Berlin and Munich. Admission to Neuschwanstein. And some of the top sights — such as the Reichstag in Berlin or the Frauenkirche and Englischer Garten in Munich — are free. Shopping and nightlife costs Shopping and entertainment are the most flexible parts of your budget. Most cable cars cost much less. dinner for two at a good. Only at luxury hotels do you have to pay extra for breakfast — usually 18€ to 22€ ($22–$27) — but the buffet breakfast invariably is fabulous. if you’re a senior or a student. generally around 5€ ($6. But remember. Outside of Berlin or Munich. a buffet breakfast nearly always is included in your hotel cost. Germany’s highest mountain. As a general rule.75–$6. depending on the duration of the trip. You know what .25) round-trip. You don’t have to buy anything at all. you can expect to pay from 35€ to 50€ ($44–$62) per person per day (assuming your hotel rate includes breakfast). If you eat breakfast at a cafe rather than your hotel. expect to pay about 3. Hamburg. you can often get a reducedprice admission. Throughout most of Germany. the top attraction is a cable car that can whisk you to the top of a famous peak for a spectacular view. sightseeing in Germany is fairly inexpensive. The most expensive ride is to the top of the Zugspitze. on what you want to see. Finding a museum that costs more than 8€ ($10) is rare. mid-priced restaurant averages about 28€ ($35) including beer. unless you splurge on really high-priced restaurants. is kostenlos (free). Sightseeing boat excursions typically are 8€ to 15€ ($10–$19).50–$9) anywhere in the country. of course. costs only 8€ ($10). and you’re content with coffee and a roll at a stand-up counter (or a Starbucks).25) for admission to museums and local attractions outside of the big cities. Strolling down Berlin’s great avenues. City sightseeing tours by bus cost from 10€ to 24€ ($13–$30). and that doesn’t include beer or wine. Afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) sets you back about 7€ or 8€ ($9 or $10) anywhere in Germany.54 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany As with hotels. In addition. and back again. for example — sell special “Welcome” cards that get you into several museums for a reduced rate. Munich. and you can hit the sack right after dinner instead of going to a concert or dancing at a club. Sightseeing expenses Your budget for admission fees depends. expect your daily food cost to be about 25€ to 40€ ($31–$50). the Bavarian castle that is Germany’s top attraction. the cost for adults is 45€ ($56).50€ to 7€ ($4. exploring by foot in almost any German town is a good way to soak up the local culture free of charge. or viewing the Brandenburg Gate. In some locations. expect to pay from 3€ to 5€ ($2.

Keep in mind that the hotel rates I quote here are rack rates.25). Berlin. excluding wine. At mid-price and luxury hotels you can almost always find a lower rate that the one listed here simply by checking the hotel’s Web site and booking in advance.10€ ($2. bar. budget accordingly.25) 330€–490€ ($412–$612) Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by bus Transportation from Tegel airport to central Berlin by taxi One-way U-Bahn (subway) fare within central Berlin Tageskarte one-day public transportation pass for two zones Double room without breakfast at Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) Double room with breakfast at Brandenburger Hof ($$$$) 245€–295€ ($306–$369) Double room with breakfast at Hotel Domus ($$–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Arco Hotel ($–$$) Dinner for one. at Die Quadriga ($$$$) Dinner for one. is a late-night city.50€ ($3. the highest undiscounted rate charged by a hotel.50–$10) 3. Tables 5-1 and 5-2 give you an idea of what things typically cost in Berlin and the rest of the country.75) 6€–8€ ($7.50€ ($4. especially.50) 5.40) (continued) Kaffee und kuchen at a cafe or stand-up coffee shop ($) Large glass of beer at a cafe. cover charges are rarely more than 5€ ($6. excluding wine. If anything strikes you as something you can’t do without. but drinks other than beer can be pricey. a glass of good German wine about 5€ ($6. at Marjellchen ($$–$$$) Meal for one. Flip through the shopping and nightlife options of each destination chapter. at Noodle ($–$$) Cafe meal for one at Café Silberstein ($) Sausage at a stand-up snack stand ($) 115€–150€ ($144–$187) 65€–97€ ($111–$121) 60€ ($75) 30€ ($37) 15€ ($19) 10€ ($13) 3€ ($3.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 55 you want. or tavern . Table 5-1 Item What Things Cost in Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 2.50) 20€ ($25) 2.25).10€ ($2. (Keep in mind that a small beer sets you back about 2. excluding wine.10). and an opera ticket in either Berlin or Munich anywhere from 10€ to 80€ ($13–$100). so you may want to check out the club scene while you’re there.80€ ($7.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber ($–$$$) Double room with breakfast at Hotel-Garni Brugger. Freiburg ($$$) Dinner for one. excluding wine. Baden-Baden ($$$$) Lunch for one. at Der Kleine Prinz. ticket good for same-day admission to several other museums Admission to the Altes or Pergamon Museum (one ticket good for both on same day) Admission to Charlottenburg Palace and palace museums Opera ticket Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 8€ ($10) 23€–75€ ($29–$94) Table 5-2 Item What Things Cost Outside Berlin Cost in Euros (Dollars) 50€ ($62)/34€ ($40) 151€ ($189)/96€ ($120) 190€–215€ ($237–$269) 90€–170€ ($112–$212) 86€–92€ ($107–$115) 139€–282€ ($174–$352) 57€–75€ ($71–$94) 12€ ($15) 35€–43€ ($44–$54) 20€ ($25) 8€ ($10) First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Dresden First-class/second-class one-way train ticket Berlin–Munich Double room with breakfast at Der Kleine Prinz. excluding wine. at Zum Röten Bären. Lindau ($) Double room with breakfast at Eden-Hotel-Wolf. Munich ($$$–$$$$) Fixed-price dinner for one. Dresden ($) Fixed-price dinner for one. including one glass of beer. Baden-Baden ($$$–$$$$) Double room with breakfast at Burg Hotel. excluding beer. at Hofbräuhaus. at Café Schinkelwache. Bavaria .56 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Table 5-1 (continued) Item Admission to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). Munich ($) Admission to Neuschwanstein Castle.

250) 70€ ($87) Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun Throughout this book. ߜ Always ask for discount rates. be sure to ask whether you can get a cheaper rate by flying on a specific day. Germans tend to travel outside of Germany on their holidays. or Thursday. hotel. AARP. Bargain Alert icons (like the one in the left margin) highlight money-saving tips and/or great deals. ߜ Try a package tour. frequent-flier plans. Dresden Admission to Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery). which are peak travel months for Germans but often a time of lower hotel prices. ߜ Travel on off days of the week. Munich Adult/child admission to Deutsches Museum (Science and Industry). Membership in AAA. airfares vary depending on the day of the week and even the hour you fly. you’ll find hotel prices are as much as 20 percent less than during peak months. prices go down. airline. If you can travel at off-season times (Oct–Nov and Jan–Mar). If you can travel on a Tuesday. Because more rooms are available.75) 25€–80€ ($31–$100) 29€ ($36) 5. Baden-Baden Average losses at gambling tables.50€ ($10)/3€ ($3. you may find cheaper flights to Frankfurt. and even some sightseeing by making just one call to a travel agent.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money Item Admission to Zwinger Palace (all museums). Here are some additional cost-cutting strategies: ߜ Go during the off season. In general. economy car 57 10€ ($13) 4€ ($5) Cost in Euros (Dollars) 8. you can book airfare. When you inquire about airfares. Dresden Complete bath and massage treatment at Friedrichsbad. Generalizing about airfares is difficult because the entire industry is changing all the time. For popular destinations like Frankfurt and Munich. which means more beds are available in German hotels. Baden-Baden Tank of unleaded gas. or packager — and you’ll pay much less than if you tried to put the trip together yourself (see Chapter 6). Sound odd? Not really. Munich.000€ ($6. or other groups may qualify you for discounts on . Semper Opera House. The same is true for July and August. ground transportation. or Berlin. Munich Opera ticket. Wednesday.

(See Chapter 8 for some recommended Web sites. Regardless of where you travel in Germany. Handling Money In January 2002. If you’re worried about your budget. First-class train tickets generally cost about one-third more than standard second-class tickets. children. To encourage year-round tourism. and the menu often includes many of the dinnertime specialties. buying your local train tickets in Germany is cheaper. And many hotels won’t charge you the additional-person rate when that person is pint-size and related to you. That’s what the Germans do. Surfing the Web is the best way to find out about special packages at specific hotels. Notes are . If you’re headquartering in one city and making side trips to nearby towns. midweek. or Old Town. At most top restaurants in Berlin and Munich. and guided tours booked before you go. do without the T-shirts. beer steins. Bavarian hats.) ߜ Try expensive restaurants at lunch rather than dinner. ߜ Walk a lot. ߜ Know the advantages and disadvantages of buying a rail pass before you leave home. Each usually has a historic Altstadt. 2¢. The amount of money you save with a rail pass depends on how often you use it and how far you go. 5¢. and students with ID. and the trinkets sold at major tourist attractions. Even if you have to pay a few extra euros for a rollaway bed. 50¢. prices at lunch are lower than those at dinner. many hotels in Germany offer special price breaks on weekends or midweek during the off season. Your photographs and memories make the best mementos of your trip. cuckoo clocks. One euro is divided into one hundred cents. Coins come in denominations of 1¢. 10¢. ߜ Travel second class. and off-season special offers.58 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany plane tickets. key chains. always look for value-added fixed-price menus. ߜ Ask if your kids can stay in your room with you. you save a bundle by not taking two rooms. ߜ Ask about weekend. and 2€. you get to know the city and its inhabitants more intimately. Germany’s unit of currency changed from the Deutsche Mark to the euro. Most German cities are compact and eminently walkable. hotel rooms. 1€. and you can explore at a slower pace. 20¢. As a bonus. car rentals. A room with two double beds usually doesn’t cost any more than one with a queensize bed. that contains most of the attractions and is within walking distance of the train station. ߜ Skip the souvenirs. Sometimes these special rates are offered as romantic getaway packages and include dinner and a glass of wine. Attractions within Germany usually offer a lower admission rate for seniors. A good pair of walking shoes can save you money on taxis and other local transportation.

But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you . train stations. and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. In and PLUS (% 800-8437587.mastercard. then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. It usually takes five to seven business days. euros take a bit of getting used to. is the rate you get when you use your own currency to buy euros. 50. the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own ATM fee. though some banks provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time your card is used at a different bank’s ATM. and outside banks.) When you’re about to leave on your trip. Cirrus (% 800-424-7787. and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. 10. many banks now assess a 1 percent to 3 percent “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency). You also can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs. (If the U. If you’ve forgotten yours. You also can check currency conversions online at www. you find 24-hour ATMs (often called Geldautomat) in airports. The exchange rate. Using ATMs and carrying cash The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an automated teller machine (ATM). www. As with any unfamiliar currency.25. www. The coins have different sizes. 20. if more than $10. which fluctuates daily. and weights according to value. In German cities.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 59 available in 5. At some banks. to the nearest dollar. In 200. 100. provided you know your PIN.S. check the back of your ATM card for the network to which your bank belongs. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad. shapes. check with your bank or look in the newspaper to find out the current Charging ahead with credit cards Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses. I round it off to the nearest nickel. 1€ = $1. call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. and 500 denominations. the amount you can withdraw must be in a checking (not a savings) account. and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. Each bank-note denomination has its own color. or didn’t even know you had one. price is less than $10. I use this approximate exchange rate for prices in this book. Make sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave are the most popular networks.

Cashing traveler’s checks is more timeconsuming and can end up costing more because you must go to a bank or money-exchange service and pay a check-cashing fee. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip.m. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide and at several other banks.95 fee at most AAA offices or by calling % 866-339-3378. to 10 p. as do some restaurants. $50.5 percent and 2 percent. American Express offers denominations of $20. you can always call the card’s toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused — a good reason to carry the phone number with you. many tourist information offices. You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. AAA members can get Visa checks for a $9. and 2:30 to 4 p. Toting traveler’s checks These days. $100.000. Even if you don’t call your credit-card company in advance. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. $500.000.m. Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the service charge. These services are available in German airports.m. and (for cardholders only) $1. a card may not work for any number of reasons. and $1. to 1 p. Some credit-card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges.m. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling % 800-221-7282. all major rail stations. post offices countrywide. You pay a service charge ranging from 1 percent to 4 percent. In smaller German towns and villages.m. so having a backup is the smart way to go. Call % 800-732-1322 for information. many pensions (B&Bs) with one to three guest rooms operate on a cash-only basis. $500. $100.60 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany factor in things like high ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates and service fees. $50. Changing your currency in Germany You can easily change cash or traveler’s checks by using a currency-exchange service called a Geldwechsel or bureau de change. and American Express offices. checks come in denominations of $20. The service charge ranges between 1. any branch of a major bank. Currencyexchange windows in airports and rail stations generally are open daily from 6 a. . Banks generally are open weekdays from 8:30 a. Call % 800-223-9920 for a location near you. traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that enable you to withdraw (usually for a fee) small amounts of cash as needed.

and TransUnion (% 800-680-7289. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately.westernunion. Hamburg. be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in case they’re stolen or lost. among other cities. transunion. Most credit-card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen. and file a report at the nearest police precinct. If your credit card gets lost or stolen while you’re in Germany. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (% 800-766-0008. the airline may allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed. Cologne. americanexpress. Dresden. Citibank customers using ATMs at German branches of Citibank don’t pay additional withdrawal fees. You can find addresses for American Express offices throughout Germany at www. The three major If you need emergency cash during the weekend. if you’ve lost all forms of photo Leipzig. Your credit-card company or insurer may require a police-report number or record of the loss. call your airline and explain the situation. and Munich. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers. Experian (% 888-3973742. www. Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet. you can have money wired to you via Western Union (% they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.experian. placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. Finally. Leipzig. Cologne. Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet Be sure to contact all your credit-card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. www. www. and Munich. Heidelberg. when all banks and American Express offices are closed. . You can avoid paying a second commission fee by using American Express traveler’s checks and cashing them at an American Express office. call the toll-free number directory at % 800-5551212. call the following numbers: ߜ American Express % 954-503-8850 (collect) ߜ MasterCard % 0800/819-1040 (toll-free) ߜ Visa % 0800/811-8440 (toll-free) or 417-581-9994 (collect) For other credit cards. For addresses of Citibanks in American Express has offices in Berlin. www. Find Citibank branches in Berlin. especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. go online to Frankfurt.Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 61 If you choose to carry traveler’s checks.

Before checking your luggage upon your departure from Germany. ferry ports. you receive a tax-free voucher. you can get a VAT refund on purchases made in Germany (excluding hotel and restaurant bills). This hefty percentage already is figured into the total prices of consumer goods and hotel and restaurant bills. border crossings. amounts to 16 percent. you’re staying in an expensive hotel with porters who carry your bags (1€/$1. redeem the voucher for cash (euros or dollars) at a Europe Tax-Free Shopping window.62 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Taking Taxes into Account Germany’s version of a sales tax. or round up to the next euro. To receive a refund. . unless. you can add 5 percent to 10 percent to your bill. and you can’t avoid paying it. have the voucher stamped by German Customs to confirm that the goods have been exported. called the Mehrwertsteuer (abbreviated MWST) or value-added tax (abbreviated VAT). shop at stores displaying a Tax-Free Shopping sign.25 per successful hail). If you’re not a resident of the European Union. and railroad stations. if the service has been very good. which must be completed by the store and must have a copy of your sales receipt attached to it.25 per bag carried) and doormen who hail you a cab (1€/$1. Most stores have a minimum amount that you must spend to qualify for the refund. When you make a qualifying purchase. service charges are included in the bill. Then. In restaurants. A Tip about Tipping As a general rule. Germany isn’t a country where you must tip excessively.) This tax isn’t a hidden expense. Otherwise. (The general hotel and restaurant prices in this book include VAT. of course. located at all major airports.

Portland (Oregon). Detroit. San Francisco. nonstop flights? How can you save money on your flight (and your hotel)? What are the pros and cons of taking an escorted tour? You find answers to your basic travel questions here.Chapter 6 Getting to Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Deciding which German city to fly into ᮣ Saving on airfare and booking online ᮣ Arriving in Germany by train or boat ᮣ Joining an escorted tour ᮣ Finding out how a package tour can save you money N ow that you’ve decided to visit Deutschland (Germany. Miami. Stuttgart. D. What are your options for direct. Amsterdam. Boston. See the appendix at the back of this book for a list of the main international carriers with direct flights into Germany from the United States. Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where In Germany. Canada. and Washington. called Flughafen Frankfurt Main. Paris. Copenhagen.C. or London. Houston. you’re going to need to find a way to hop across that little puddle called the Atlantic. Berlin (one flight only). Germany has several airports. The following airlines offer direct flights: ߜ Lufthansa. Chicago. Newark. Los Angeles. In this chapter. and other cities in Germany. You also can fly to Cologne. but if you’re coming from the United States. . New York JFK. Munich. Philadelphia. Dallas/Fort Worth. but direct flights from the United States fly only into Frankfurt. is Germany’s main international hub. Nuremberg. that is). and Düsseldorf. I discuss getting you to Germany. an airport is called a Flughafen (floog-haf-en). Flying into Frankfurt Frankfurt airport. the United Kingdom.. Germany’s national carrier (now partnered with United Airlines and Air Canada). has direct flights to Frankfurt from Atlanta. and from Toronto and Vancouver. these routes require a change of planes — usually in Frankfurt. and Australia.

and British Airways flies nonstop from London. D. ߜ Cologne: Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn is a good spot to land whenever you’re planning to tour western Germany and the Rhineland wine country. Lufthansa flies nonstop to Munich from Newark. hop on a train. Flying into other German airports Here’s a brief rundown of other major airports in Germany and some of the airlines that fly into them. In each city section of this guide. I give you more specific information about how to get into the city from the airport. For more information on the Frankfurt airport. See Chapter 11 for a complete description of Berlin’s airports. See Chapter 15 for more about flying into Munich. located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center.. From Berlin. . and Miami. Minneapolis/St. British Airways and British Midland fly direct to Cologne from the United Kingdom. ߜ Berlin: Berlin has two airports. you can easily reach other cities in eastern Germany by train. and Weimar (see all in Chapter 14). Chicago. The airport has its own train station. and you’re close to Hamburg and the northern Hanseatic cities (see Chapter 13). see Chapter 20. Excursion boats leave from Cologne for trips on the Rhine and other German rivers (see Chapter 19). so you can fly in. D. Opened in 1992. is Germany’s second-largest airport. especially Dresden. Direct flights also are scheduled from most major European cities. ߜ British Airways flies direct to Frankfurt from London. and be off to your first destination. Leipzig. ߜ Qantas flies to Frankfurt from Melbourne and Sydney.64 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ American Airlines has nonstop service to Frankfurt from Dallas/ Fort Worth.S. which is quite small but has easy public transportation into central Berlin. and San Francisco. ߜ Munich: Franz Josef Strauss International Airport. ߜ Delta Air Lines has daily nonstops from Newark and Atlanta. Chicago. Delta currently is the only airline that flies direct to Berlin from New York. ߜ Northwest Airlines (partnered with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines) flies nonstop to Frankfurt from Boston.C. and Washington. Delta flies nonstop from Atlanta. JFK. Boston. this airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world (completely accessible for the disabled).C. Although no direct flights are scheduled from the U. Flights to other cities in Germany from Frankfurt rarely take more than 11⁄2 hours. but you probably will fly into Tegel. Australia. Paul. Chicago. ߜ United Airlines offers nonstop service to Frankfurt from Chicago and Washington.

but they often can’t beat the Internet. which tend to take place in seasons of low travel volume: October. Aer Lingus flies nonstop from Dublin. Bucket-shop tickets usually are nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties. www. Obviously. you nevertheless can use the airport in Düsseldorf as an alternative to Cologne. Wed. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections. Getting the best airfare Competition among the major U. stay overnight Saturday. Consolidators. are great sources for international tickets. From Düsseldorf. . but you can’t beat the prices.eltexpress. STA Travel (% 800-781-4040.1800flycheap. airlines is unlike that of any other industry. often as high as 50 percent to 75 percent of the ticket price. reaching the Rhine Valley is easy. and January through March in Germany.statravel. As you plan your vacation. The airlines also periodically hold sales in which they lower the prices on their most popular routes. ߜ Hamburg: Direct flights to Flughafen Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel are scheduled from most major European cities. or Thurs). Delta offers service from Atlanta via is owned by package-holiday . a coach seat is a coach seat is a . known as the full fare. British Midland has flights from London. the world’s leader in student travel. If you can book your ticket far in advance. and you’re willing to travel midweek (Tues. particularly to Europe. keep your eyes open for these sales. FlyCheap (% 800-FLY-CHEAP [800-359-2432]. November. you can qualify for the least-expensive price — usually a fraction of the full fare. offers good fares for travelers of all ages. These fares have advance-purchase requirements and date-of-travel but none arrive directly from the United States. Every airline offers virtually the same product (basically. has excellent fares worldwide. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. ELTExpress (Flights. Business travelers who need the flexibility of being able to buy their tickets at the last minute and changing their itineraries at a moment’s notice — and who want to get home before the weekend — pay a premium rate.S. . Lufthansa and Continental offer direct flights from Newark. planning ahead pays. ).Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 65 ߜ Düsseldorf: Although I don’t cover Düsseldorf in this guidebook (the closest city that I cover is Cologne in Chapter 19).com) (% 800/TRAV-800. and yet prices can vary by hundreds of dollars. and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. also known as bucket shops. such as Frankfurt and Munich. www.

such as Smarter Travel (smartertravel. and www.expedia. but some can be booked weeks or months in or if you want to change your seat.insideflyer. The mystery airlines all are major. If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight details.orbitz. Both offer rock-bottom prices in exchange for traveling on a mystery airline at a mysterious time of day. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage. For last-minute in the U.travelocity. of those Travelocity (www.66 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany megalith MyTravel and has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations.airtickets direct. so shopping around is wise. Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends. which have the most advantageous alliances. Of the smaller travel agency Web sites. residents can go for expedia. given your most common routes. Air Tickets Direct (% and Orbitz (www. use an opaque fare service like Priceline ( Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same flights. in Europe often have better deals than the major-label sites. faster response to phone inquiries. It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once” but in reality beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites do. With more than 70 mileage awards programs on the or Hotwire (www. frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. Most are valid for travel only that weekend. Expedia (www. SideStep (www. Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the airlines. com).uk and opodo. well-known carriers — and the possibility of being sent from New York .ca and www.travelocity.lastminute. but it does entitle you to better seats. And you don’t have to fly to earn points. Most of these deals are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased online. often with a mysterious change of planes en is based in Montreal and leverages the Canadian-dollar exchange rate for low fares. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline Web sites or check megasites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute specials.expedia. Expedia and Travelocity also will send you an e-mail notification whenever a cheap fare to your favorite destination becomes available. sell most air tickets bought on the Internet.priceline. Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a cent. www. receives good reviews from users.sidestep. (Canadian travelers need to try www. Consider which airlines have hubs in the airport nearest U.K. consumers have never had more and prompter service if your luggage is stolen or your flight is canceled or delayed. Booking your flight online The “big three” online travel agencies. consult Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www. Investigate the program details of your favorite airlines before you sink points into any one.

Sweden. www. high-speed Thalys trains link Cologne and Düsseldorf with Paris and Brussels. Russia. and rail-pass prices. Denmark.biddingfortravel. Have no fear. In every city section of this guide. to . But your chances of getting a 6 a. flight are pretty ߜ www.m. EuroCity (EC) trains connect Germany with neighboring countries. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you buy.lastminutetravel. When you’re traveling between but you almost always find one main or central inner-city station called a Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). Major Arriving by boat Germany’s northern coast lies along the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. and from all provides ferry service from Harwich. and Estonia.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 67 to Frankfurt via Detroit is remote. Its Web site provides useful trip-planning information on train schedules and travel times. have more than one station. Norway. ext.raileurope. Perhaps you’re flying into Paris and from there going on to Berlin or Heidelberg as part of your European dream vacation. Latvia. or 11 p. Trains are very much a part of the German (and European) travel ethic. and Canada.. England. and sleek. Finland. Poland. are taken care of onboard the train. such as Berlin and Hamburg. which usually is conveniently ߜ www. In Chapter 7. so it’s easy to include Germany as part of a larger European Arriving by Other Means Germany is accessible by land and sea.cheapflights. 800-361-7245 in Canada. DFDS Seaways (% 800-533-3755. www. I tell you how to get into the city center from the train ߜ www.opodo. You can reach all major German cities by train with ease. Priceline usually has better deals than Hotwire. but you have to play their “name our price” game.m. International ferry services are available from the United ߜ www. promotional offers. border formalities. For more information about trains in Europe. Other helpful Web sites for booking airline tickets online include ߜ www.S. fares. contact Rail Europe (% 888-3827245 in the U. Traveling by train Germany is extremely well connected by train to the rest of Europe. seaeurope. 114 in the U. I discuss traveling around Germany by train and the various rail passes that can cut down on transportation costs. such as passport checks.

but the information can help you select a tour that’s sure to take place. ߜ How big is the group? The smaller the group. A box lunch may be included in an excursion. but they should be able to give you a rough estimate. Tour operators may be evasive about providing this fact.68 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Hamburg. along with finding out whether you have to put down a deposit and when final payment is due. I strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance. Get travel insurance through an independent agency. (I tell you more about travel insurance in Chapter 10. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. the journey takes 20 hours. but drinks . because they may not know the exact size of the group until everybody has made their reservations. or does it give you ample time to relax or shop? If getting up at 7 a. find out what it is and how close they are to reaching it. ask a few simple questions before you buy: ߜ What is the cancellation policy? How late can you cancel if you can’t go? Do you get a refund if you cancel? Do you get a refund if the operator cancels? ߜ How jampacked is the schedule? Does the tour schedule try to fit 25 hours into a 24-hour day. The tour company takes care of all the details and tells you what to expect on each leg of your journey.) When choosing an escorted tour. You know your costs upfront. certain escorted tours may not be for you. Again. ߜ Does the tour require a minimum group size? Some tour operators require a minimum group size and may cancel the tour when they don’t book enough people. so you don’t encounter many surprises. Joining an Escorted Tour Some travelers to foreign destinations prefer escorted tours. sounds like a grind. every day and not returning to your hotel until 6 or 7 p. ߜ What exactly is included? Don’t assume anything. You may be required to get yourself to and from the airports at your own expense. If a quota exists. But don’t buy insurance from the tour operator! If the tour operator doesn’t fulfill its obligation to provide you with the vacation you paid for.m. you have no reason to think that the tour operator will fulfill its insurance obligations either.m. If you decide to go with an escorted tour. Silja Lines (same telephone and Web site as for DFDS Seaways) sails from Helsinki across the Baltic to Rostock in northern Germany. the less time you spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. tour operators may be evasive with their answers. especially when the tour operator asks you to pay upfront.

8-country European Magic tour (from $1. Beer may be included but not wine.” a nine-day Rhine cruise that includes visits to vineyards and trips to Cologne and Heidelberg. www.079 per person double occupancy without airfare) and its 11-day. How much flexibility does the tour offer? Can you opt out of certain activities.brennanvactions.Chapter 6: Getting to Germany 69 may be extra. and Prague (from $2. ߜ Contiki Holidays (% 866-CONTIKI. www. package tours can be a smart way to go. including Berlin. Neuschwanstein and Oberammergau. Cologne. Choosing a package tour For many destinations. and the United Kingdom. ߜ Maupintour (www. . Meissen. including a stay in a castle on the Rhine and exploration of German vineyards. while others are more general. Munich.959 without airfare) 35-year-olds and has offices in the United States. Dresden. with no exceptions? Are all your meals planned in advance? Can you choose your entree at dinner. ߜ Globus (www. not including provides escorted tours for 18. Its 12-day European Horizon tour (from $1.globusjourneys. In many cases. Many escorted-tour companies cater to special interests.brendan vacations. com) provides escorted tours in western and southern Germany. hotel.649. or does the bus leave once a day.279 per person double occupancy without airfare) include stops in the Rhine Valley and Munich.maupintour. and transportation to and from the airport costs less than the hotel alone on a tour you book yourself. a package tour that includes airfare. and a nine-day Berlin-to-Bohemia tour that takes you to Berlin. www. Black Forest. who then resell them to the public. A good travel agent can help you find a tour that suits your particular interests. and Mainau (from $ has an eight-day escorted tour of German Christmas Market Towns from $2. Australia. Munich. or does everybody get the same chicken cutlet? Tour operators in the United States Several companies offer escorted tours to Berlin. an eight-day Bavaria and Bodensee tour with stops in Munich. Potsdam. ߜ Brennan Vacations (% 800-237-7249. Contiki also offers an escorted eight-day Berlin–Prague trip. The following companies offer escorted tours to Germany: ߜ Brendan Worldwide Vacations (% 800-421-8446.879 without airfare).com) offers escorted grand and highlight tours that cover most of offers “Romantic Rhine. and Leipzig. Canada. That’s because packages are sold in bulk to tour operators. Neuschwanstein. such as castles on the Rhine for history buffs. and destinations in the rest of Germany (or include Germany in a Europe-wide tour).

and Frankfurt. others sell — also do a brisk business in packages.unitedvacations. . airlines offered packages to Germany from the United States in 2006: ߜ Continental Airlines Vacations (% 800-301-3800. a daylong Rhine tour from Frankfurt. Prices depend on your departure city.S. www. Some book flights on scheduled airlines. www. Airline packages don’t always include airport taxes and surcharges. ߜ Northwest Airlines World Vacations (% has air/hotel packages to Frankfurt. Munich. and an array of sightseeing and transportation add-ons. ߜ Delta Vacations (% 800-221-6666. Some offer a better class of hotels than offers flight and hotel packages to Frankfurt and Munich. and a day tour of Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace. www. Munich. your choice of accommodations and travel days may be limited. others allow you to add on just a few excursions or escorted daytrips (also at discounted prices) without booking an entirely escorted tour. such as Travel + Leisure. If you’re unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager. or go online to www. The following U. Orbitz. Several big online travel agencies — Expedia. Site59. departure cities. Locating airline and hotel packages To find package tours.bbb.nwa has air/hotel packages to Berlin.70 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Every package tour is different. www. Some let you choose between escorted vacations and independent has a hotel/airfare package to Frankfurt from a number of U. and Berlin. If a packager won’t tell you where it’s based. In some packages. National Geographic www. and Lastminute. some provide the same hotels for lower prices. which typically amount to about $ is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast and usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers. Travelocity. and Condé Nast Traveler. don’t fly with it.libertytravel. Other good sources of package deals are the airlines. Add-ons include a Munich city tour. You also can rent a car or buy a Eurailpass for train travel. and many let you choose the hotel category you want. check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based. check out the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper or the ads in the back of national travel magazines. ߜ United Vacations (% 800-800-1504. Liberty Travel (call % 888-271-1584.

When you get out of the cities and into the countryside. From Berlin you can reach Dresden or Leipzig in about two hours. miles) is smaller than the state of Montana (but with more than 80 million people). Compared with the United States. customs. . the mode of travel best suited to your needs and itinerary. I Weighing the Options: Train or Car? Because of Germany’s comparatively small size and easy-access train and road networks. From Munich. The train trip between Hamburg and Lübeck is less than an hour. and Canada. Many historic towns and castles in Germany are manageable daytrips from larger cities. consider exploring at least a portion of Germany that has nothing to do with huge urban Berlin or Munich. Germany (356. By fast train or car. and language as you travel from one part of Germany to another. You’ll notice fascinating differences in culture. With the area added by reunification. The cities in western Germany — Cologne. you find out more about your travel options within Germany — that is. you can get from Berlin. food. If you want to get a feel for the country. to Munich. Nuremberg — usually are no more than two or three hours apart by car or train. in the south. the country is a snap to explore. km/137. Stuttgart.734 sq. where you can sip wine in a small Rhineland village or explore a scenic region like Bavaria.Chapter 7 Getting Around Germany In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling through Germany by train ᮣ Touring the sites by car ᮣ Cruising the rivers of Germany ᮣ Flying from city to city n this chapter.735 sq. Australia. the atmospheric charms of Germany are most strongly felt. Heidelberg. in about seven or eight hours. Germany is a fairly small country. in the north. the trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps is only an hour by car and less than 90 minutes by train.

at DB’s Web site. Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go In Germany. you can choose whether to sit in a compartment with six seats or in an open saloon coach. Train types The federally owned and operated Deutsche Bahn has been modernizing and upgrading its trains steadily while integrating two different systems (Deutsche Bundesbahn in western Germany and Deutsche Reichsbahn in eastern Germany) into one. and telephone service. from Frankfurt to Munich. If you need any kind of train-related information while you’re in Germany — from timetables to fares and special services — call DB’s general information number at % 11861. in English. Dining cars (Speisewagen. reaching speeds of 265kmph (165 mph). The railway system in Germany is operated by Deutsche Bahn (DB. And. German Rail in English). pronounced shpy-zuhvahg-en) and cafe or bistro cars (for lighter snacks) are on all trains. enabling passengers to cross the entire country in only a few hours. individual reading and a high standard of comfort in both first and second classes. having a car in scenic areas. are among the fastest in Europe. and convenient. and from Berlin to Munich. which connect major cities on heavily traveled routes. ICE trains have telephones. such as the Black Forest (Chapter 17) or the Romantic Road in Bavaria (Chapter 16). . I recommend train travel for its convenience. and fun. Following basic training Throughout Germany. high-tech look of the newest trains. I recommend traveling by train above all other forms of transportation — especially if you’re a first-time visitor to Germany. enables you to explore the countryside more easily. speed. You may be surprised by the bright-red. Each train makes stops at cities along the way. a train is called an Eisenbahn (eye-sen-bawn) or a Zug (zoog). What follows is a rundown of the trains that you find within Germany: ߜ InterCity (IC) passenger trains offer express service between all major German cities at intervals of one or two hours. Traveling by train is fast. yes. German trains almost always run on time. ICE significantly reduces travel time. However. fun. ߜ InterCity Express (ICE) trains. long-distance and local train timetables are coordinated to minimize waiting for connections. Someone who speaks English will be available to help you. IC trains have adjustable cushioned seats. On IC trains. ICE trains run from Hamburg to Munich.bahn. a restaurant. www.72 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany So should you rent a car or take the train? In almost all cases. You also can access train information online.

and Freiburg. An announcement is made before the train arrives at each station. In other trains. you may need to transfer to a RegionalBahn (RB) train to reach your destination. among other towns). phones for wake-up service. say. Station stops are short. S-Bahn (urban light-rail) trains are used. First-class service on InterCity Express (ICE) trains includes a higher standard of personal service. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations. you may need to open the door by pulling up on a handle. Baden-Baden. you can order beverages and snacks that . Comfort Single or Double gives you a singleor double-bed compartment with washing facilities. pronounced nickt rau-kin) sections. The CNL includes a restaurant and cafe car. The CNL offers four different categories. and Dortmund and Vienna. In new high-speed trains. Eurail and GermanRail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation. ߜ For shorter local trips. and a more luxurious feel. which now sometimes is called standard class. This train operates between Berlin and Zurich (stopping at Frankfurt. But you can travel quite comfortably in second class. and a panoramic window with blinds. Economy provides a four-bed compartment with washing facilities (you can book this class as a single or double). Ticket classes German trains have a two-tiered ticket system: first class (Erste Klasse) and second class (Zweite Klasse). ߜ DB Nachtzug (Night Train) service is available between many cities in Germany and continues on to Amsterdam. when you’re onboard the train for seven hours or more. usually within a suburban area around a large town. You may appreciate the difference on long-distance journeys — from Berlin to Munich. pronounced raukin) and nonsmoking (nicht rauchen. Sleeping accommodations in Deluxe include compartments with a shower and toilet. Berlin and Dresden. fewer passengers.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 73 ߜ The CityNightLine (CNL) is one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe. The night trains have comfortable couchettes (basic sleeping compartments) and some more deluxe sleeping compartments with showers. you find a well-marked button that automatically opens the door. and Copenhagen. Hamburg and Zurich. key cards. You can specify your preference when reserving your seat. so have your luggage in hand and be ready to disembark when the train comes to a halt. RegionalExpress (RE) trains link rural areas to the long-distance rail network. First-class tickets cost about one-third more than second class. The Ruhesessel (sleeper chair) category offers open saloon seating with reclining seats. Prague. Paris. The first-class cars have roomier seats. Brussels. All German trains are divided into smoking (rauchen. For some outof-the-way places.

m. and track numbers. Local and commuter trains don’t have food service. you can take an elevator to the track level. stowed elsewhere. and not spending the night. First. . including currency exchange.25). which sometimes have a ramp for luggage trolleys and baby carriages.m. When you reach your destination. daytime automobile trains also operate. final destinations. porters (recognized by their red or blue uniforms) can transport your luggage. arrival or departure times. On some trains. getting to your track without help may be difficult.and second-class cars with a food-and-beverage trolley. pronounced geh-peck) at a luggage checkroom.. or bus from there. In many German train stations. you must climb stairs. Midnight always is listed as 0:00 hours and noon is 12:00.m.). Like other European trains. and usually a tourist information office. 14:00 (2 p. up to 23:59 (11:59 p. You ride in a sleeper compartment on the train.and second-class passengers otherwise use the same dining cars and cafe cars for buying sandwiches and drinks. you can check your luggage (Gepäck. The German word for arrival is Ankunft (on-koonft). tram. If you’re arriving in a city for sightseeing only. If you’re loaded down with several large. German train stations in major cities offer all kinds of services.m. Although less common. This information also is posted as a printed schedule in the station.).) Getting off on the right track After arriving at the station. The station always is a main link in the city’s public transportation system. you can take yourself and your car on an overnight car-sleeper Auto Train. Therefore. Heading to the Hauptbahnhof A German city’s Hauptbahnhof (howpt-bahn-hof). Auto trains If you want to avoid long-distance driving but need a car after you arrive at your destination. and so on. rarely is more than a few minutes’ walk from the historic town center and all the main attractions. comes along for the ride. so you can continue your local explorations by subway. while your automobile. or main train station. train times can be 13:00 (1 p. But in others. newsstands. you can pick up your car and go.m.). prominently placed departure and arrival boards list train numbers. departure is Abfahrt (ob-fahrt). you need to find the right track (Gleis. 15:00 (3 p. the time on the schedule reads 16:20. light-rail. or you can use self-service luggage trolleys available for 1€ ($1. food and beverages. (Just another way of saying: Don’t overpack.74 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany are brought to your seat. If your train leaves at 4:20 p. At larger stations. an employee comes through both first. pronounced glice) for your departing train. In large cities. the German train system works on a 24-hour clock. Hotels are always close at hand.). heavy bags.

Saving time and euros with rail passes Rail passes are tickets that enable you to travel for a certain number of days without buying a ticket for each leg of your journey. and you’re risking a journey without a seat reservation. Most rail passes must be purchased before you leave home.raileurope. London WI . You can check out passes and prices at Rail Europe’s U. Each car. Trains can be very long. or Canadian dollars) of fares between destinations within Germany. or far-karten) at any train station. In larger stations. In larger stations. www. and restaurant cars. the seat reservation costs 3€ ($3. Check the diagram and then make your way to the appropriate area of the platform before the train arrives. com. money. or 800/361-7245 in Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Germany and continental Europe. Or stop in at the Rail Europe Travel Centre. You can also find exact fares on Deutsche Bahn’s Web site. Before you buy a rail pass.. The Wagen numbers correspond with numbers or letters on the platform. At Rail Europe’s Web site. the only free seat you find may be in the smoking area or out in the hallway (I speak from experience). www. second-class.S.K. Web site: www. usually. is numbered. you can click on “Fares and Schedules” and get an estimated cost (in U. Otherwise. which allows you to order by phone or online. do a little research to find out whether it’s going to save you Reserving your seat When traveling for any distance in Germany. If you have a German Rail Pass or a Eurailpass (see the next section).raileurope.S. 178 Piccadilly. make your booking at the ticket counter. your ticket lists the car and seat number. the staff usually speaks English and can answer any questions you have. even if you have a Eurailpass or German Rail Pass. Travel agents throughout the United States and Canada sell all the rail passes described later in this section. pronounced plotz) reservation and buy train tickets (Fahrkarten. raileurope. is always a good idea. Diagrams posted on the platform show the layout of first-class. You can make a seat (Platz. usually 1 to 6 or A to G. they can’t be purchased after you arrive in Germany or the rest of Europe. bahn. make your way to the platform areas where the first. In smaller stations. If you have a Eurailpass. They help you save time (ticket lines can be long) and.75).or second-class cars will stop. but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. or Wagen (vah-ghen). so you want to be near the appropriate area for boarding when your train pulls into the 7: Getting Around Germany 75 If you have a reserved seat. look for the Reisezentrum (travel center). You’re issued a ticket that lists the Wagen (car) number and the Platz (seat) number. reserving your seat in advance.

$25 second class. for two adults (they do not have to be married and can be of the same sex) traveling together in first or second class. Sample prices: $163 for four with additional days available for a reduced price. each additional day $13. For instance. An even bigger bargain is the German Rail Twinpass. or 800-361-7245 in Canada).K). including destinations not serviced by trains. you can purchase the passes online at www. you can ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich. A four-day pass costs $263 first class or $200 second class. Sample prices per person: $200 for four days first class or $150 for second class. With a Eurailpass you can enjoy unlimited first-class rail travel in 18 countries. German rail passes: For Deutschland only The German Rail Pass allows for four consecutive or nonconsecutive days of travel in one month within Germany. including Germany. Passes are for periods as short as 15 days or as long as 3 months. A German Rail Pass also entitles the bearer to free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus. and $1. A German Rail Youth Pass is valid only for persons younger than 26 years of age and is available only in second class. These passes are for consecutive days of travel. Some of the most popular passes. Rail Europe also provides cost-effective “Rail ’n Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car. are available only to travelers younger than 26 years of age. $897 for 2 months. $634 for 1 month. entitling you to unlimited second-class travel for $394 for 15 days. Eurailpass: For travel throughout Europe The Eurailpass is one of Europe’s best bargains. each additional day costs $38 first class.S.108 for 3 months.76 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany (% 08708/371-371 in the U. German Rail Passes for kids ages 6 to 11 are half the adult price.raileurope. . Main. spend three days exploring the city. The 15-day Eurailpass costs $605. If you’re younger than 26. and free travel on KD German Line steamers (daytrips only) along the Rhine. The second pass represents a 50 percent savings over single prices. $510 for 21 days. you can purchase a Eurailpass Youth. these passes allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries. Children younger than 6 travel free. and then rent a car for a two-day excursion into the Bavarian Alps to see Ludwig’s castles.. German Rail Passes are most conveniently available from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth. and Mosel rivers.

have to pay a penalty of around $25) for changing or canceling a prepaid contract. for example — where even I succumb to car rental to explore the countryside. from a travel agent or from Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. and Eurail Selectpass. However. . or 800361-7245 in Canada. Drivers from the United States. you may want to pick up a copy of Frommer’s Germany’s Best-Loved Driving Tours (Wiley). Eurailpass Saver for two to five persons traveling together. The night trains have couchettes (sleeping cars). Buy your Eurailpass before you leave home. in some cases. Seat reservations are required on some trains. and other non–European Union countries must have a valid driver’s license. See the appendix for a list of names and contact information. To me. I recommend that you make all the arrangements before you leave home.raileurope. or at an office within German cities. Australia. the rental process is more streamlined. and the Black Forest. allowing travelers to select three. and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. good for first-class travel for 10 or 15 days in a 2-month period. but no other special license is required. You can often rent a car in one German city and return the vehicle in another city for no additional charge.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 77 Eurailpasses can be bought and used only by non-European residents. If you’re going to tour Germany by car. the Bodensee. Whenever you rent. Canada. keep in mind that you may get a better rate if you reserve the car at least seven days in Prepaying rentals in dollars before leaving the United States offers some advantages. You can pick up your car at most airports and major train stations. www. however. Touring by Car: Autobahns. that if you opt to prepay and your plans change. A host of different Eurailpass options are available. You get an easy-to-understand net price (which you have to prepay by credit card at least 14 days before departure). you have to go through some rather complicated paperwork (and. which cost extra. and Benzin I’m a Zug (train) nut. nothing is more pleasant than sitting in a train and watching the countryside roll by. including the Eurail Pass Flexi. Remember. Eurailpass holders also are entitled to considerable reductions on certain buses and ferries. Renting a car in Germany Renting a car is fairly easy in Germany.. Several international car-rental firms rent cars in Germany. Germany has scenic regions — the Romantic Road. or five countries linked by rail or ferry. four.S. Tankstellen.

the Rhine Valley. If you don’t have a CDW and have an accident. However. which are available at all major bookstores throughout Germany. so if your own car insurance doesn’t cover you abroad. The Bundesstrassen in the major touring areas of the Romantic Road in Bavaria.78 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany You can also rent a car through Rail Europe (% 877/257-2887 in the U. If you rent a car in Germany.raileurope. Taking the roads less traveled The roads that make up the Autobahn (pronounced otto-bahn) form Germany’s main long-distance highway network. The government recommends an Autobahn speed limit of 130kmph (80 mph). another passenger. I recommend that you purchase all the optional insurance coverage. . A German driver on the Autobahn can be like one possessed. or someone else. right lane. and Bundesstrassen. Some credit cards (especially platinum and gold cards) cover the CDW. In this book. so call your company to check on these benefits before you spend the extra money on additional insurance. In eastern Germany. finding your way by looking for directional signs rather than highway number signs is easier. the Autobahn does not have a speed limit (in the left. Michelin publishes the best regional maps.S. They offer a German Rail ’n Drive option that gives you two days of unlimited train travel (first or second class) and two days of Hertz car rental within one month. but many drivers going too fast report that they’ve been stopped by police and fined on the spot. See Table 7-1 for a few important words that you should know. Germany’s road signs are standard international signs. and the Black Forest are smoothly paved and kept in good repair. fast lane). individual Autobahns are indicated by the letter A followed by a number. Hallweg also produces good road maps. so you may prefer the slower.. www. In theory. You can purchase extra days for both train travel and car rental.” earlier in this chapter). by the letter B (examples: at the same time you book your German Rail Pass or Eurailpass (see “Saving time and euros with rail passes. in general. B31). The Bundesstrassen (state roads) vary in quality from region to region. or 800-361-7245 in Canada. consider taking out Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) for extra liability coverage. A Collision-Damage Waiver (CDW) is an optional insurance policy that can be purchased when you sign a rental agreement. So exercise reasonable caution. Neither the CDW nor credit-card companies cover liability if you injure yourself. some secondary and local roads are not in good shape. you’ll pay for all damages up to the cost of actually replacing the vehicle.

A kilometer is 0. ߜ Unless posted differently. and a mile is 1. you need to know a few general facts: ߜ Signs show distances and speed limits in kilometers (km) and kilometers per hour (kmph).62 of a mile. Children younger than 12 must sit on booster seats in the back so that regular seat belts can be used safely. or beginning Exit Building site. ߜ The law requires that all passengers wear seat belts. Do not drive in this lane unless you are passing another car. . speed limits are • 50kmph (30 mph) in towns • 100kmph (60 mph) on regular highways • 130kmph (78 mph) on Autobahns ߜ On Autobahns. the left lane is the fast lane. or roadwork One-way street Entrance End Danger Turn left Turn right Road narrows Attention! Look out! Following the rules of the road If you’re going to drive in Germany. ߜ You can pass other vehicles only on the left. Children younger than 4 must ride in a car seat.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 79 Table 7-1 German Anfang Ausfahrt Baustelle Einbahnstrasse Einfahrt Ende Gefahr Links einbiegen Rechts einbiegen Verengte Fahrbahn Vorsicht German Road Signs English Translation Start. German motorists generally flash their lights if they want you to move over so they can pass.62km. And I mean fast.

ask for “road service assistance” (Strassenwachthilfe). the point of the black triangle on posts alongside the road indicates the direction of the nearest phone. because most historic town centers are for pedestrians only. Sailing through Germany: River Cruises Germany’s major river is the Rhine. don’t risk driving. Handling a roadside emergency The major automobile club in Germany is Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobile Club (ADAC). bitte (please) Gasoline. On the Autobahn. they have the right of way.80 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ You must use low-beam headlights at night and during fog. They are always identified by a large P. called Tankstelle (tonk-shtel-leh) appear frequently along the Autobahns. call ADAC’s breakdown service at % 01802/222-222. If you have a breakdown on the Autobahn. called Benzin (ben-seen). Most parking lots use an automated ticket system. signs on the way into town indicate how much space is available in various lots or parking garages. and snowfalls. Fill ’er up. heavy rain. ߜ Driving while intoxicated and drinking while driving are very serious offenses in Germany. Emergency assistance is free. Super Plus Bleifrei (supreme unleaded). Look for parking lots and parking garages outside the center. Am Westpark 8. You insert coins (or credit cards) to purchase a certain amount of time. and diesel. is readily available throughout Germany. The types of gasoline are Normal Bleifrei (regular unleaded). you can call ADAC from an emergency phone. expensive. and gas stations. In English. more castles were built in the Rhine Valley than in any other valley in the world. you find emergency phones every 2km (about 11⁄4 miles). The self-service process is basically the same as that of the United States. But remember that gas is always much more expensive than in the United States. 81373 München (% 089/ 76760). in some larger cities. You fill your tank and pay inside at the counter. The cheapest gasoline is at stations marked SB-TANKEN (Selbstbedienung. If you’ve had more than a glass of wine or beer. ߜ Parking in the center of most big towns is difficult. . which flows through the heart of Europe from the Alps to the North Sea. Through the centuries. or just plain impossible. ߜ You must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks. Super Bleifrei (super unleaded). If you don’t belong to an auto club. Filling up the tank of a medium-sized car will usually cost about 60€ ($75). but you pay for parts and materials. or self-service).

CA 91367 (% 877-66VIKING [845464].rivercruises.. Hamburg or Berlin in the north to Munich in the south. Woodland Hills. Flying doesn’t make much sense if you’re traveling short distances between cities that are connected by high-speed trains. The Main flows from the Danube. mostly between April and October but with some in December. Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea? Flying from city to city within Germany makes sense if you’re traveling from. . www. you may want to consider this option. in the city center. or from Cologne in the west to Leipzig in the east.S.Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany 81 This area has great appeal to visitors. .lufthansa. and continues northeastward. takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. or Peter Deilmann EuropAmerica Cruises. . A trip that normally takes seven or eight hours by train or car takes about an hour by plane. say. and Heidelberg. going through security. Alexandria. 1800 Diagonal Rd. Viking KD River Cruises and Peter Deilman EuropAmerica Cruises offer several cruises along these three great waterways. Frankfurt. for example. offers the most extensive and frequent flights within the country. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. If you’re looking for an unusual and relaxing way to see Germany. Suite 170. In the city and regional chapters of this waiting for your departure. Dresden. For more information. Itineraries range from 2 to 20 nights. past Frankfurt. 21820 Burbank Blvd. com). and then getting into the city after your plane lands . The downside is that you won’t see the countryside. flows past the great art city of Dresden. 01803/803-803 in Germany. VA 22314 (% 800-348-8287. and enters the Rhine at the city of Mainz. I tell you about river excursions along the Mosel and Neckar rivers and local sightseeing cruises in Berlin. Lufthansa (% 800-645-3880 in the U. but when you factor in time spent getting to the airport. www. and Canada. Cologne. but other European carriers are increasing their German domestic routes. You can fly this or www. cuts through Germany’s eastern border in a beautiful area called Saxon Switzerland (see Chapter 14). by train. which begins in the Czech Republic. The Elbe.deilmanncruises. The train from Frankfurt to Stuttgart. situated on tributaries of the Elbe are Berlin and Hamburg. you can already be there..

and every country offers its own lodging possibilities. and other cities throughout the country play host to large trade fairs and special events that make hotel rooms scarce. also fill up quickly during high season. you won’t have a problem booking a room on the spot. Cologne. and the Bodensee (Lake Constance). Throughout the year. how to book a room online. Berlin. In Germany’s large cities. finding a room may be as simple as spotting a sign in a house window that reads Zimmer frei (room available). and how to get the best deal for your money. the Rhine and Mosel valleys. like Berlin and Munich. what to expect in each category. hotels in the inexpensive-to-moderate range always are first to be snapped up. Hotels in popular tourist areas. and again in December (the period that constitutes high season). wherever you are. Munich. During off season. booking your hotel room ahead is essential — especially if you’re going to be in Munich during Oktoberfest. but I still recommend doing so — particularly when you’re going to be spending a Friday or Saturday night in a major tourist spot like Dresden or Füssen. Frankfurt. From April through September.Chapter 8 Booking Your Accommodations In This Chapter ᮣ Checking out the options ᮣ Getting the best room for the best rate ᮣ Surfing for cyberdeals ᮣ Landing a room without a reservation T his chapter deals with that age-old question asked by every traveler going to an unfamiliar country or city: Where should I spend the night? Everyone travels differently. . such as the Black Forest. In the following pages. Booking ahead isn’t as important in the rest of Germany. especially in the middle of winter. In a small village. near Ludwig’s castles. you find out about German hotels — how to find them.

This light. At hotels. a roll with butter and jam. feather-filled covering. Charges for this service vary. You’re most likely to find them in midrange to high-end hotels. you find a Decke on each side. chain hotels. These same state agencies and tourist boards rate hotels according to a star system. cold cuts. yogurt. breakfast may be coffee. pastries. Smoke-free rooms and smoke-free floors finally are catching on in Germany. A one-star hotel is basic and inexpensive. I don’t use that star-rating system in this book. Finding the Place That’s Right for You Germany has very high standards for hotels and inns. A Decke is what Americans call a comforter or duvet. and simple rooms in private homes and apartments. and smoked fish or pickled herring. others charge a small fixed fee (usually no more than 3€/$3. The system isn’t used to recommend hotels but rather simply to categorize them according to their amenities. instead. If two beds are joined to make a double. I try to give you the best options in different price categories. and local tourist boards control standards in all categories of accommodations. an egg. . A five-star hotel is a luxury property with an on-site spa or pool and a rate at the top end of the price spectrum. takes the place of blankets. Some places charge nothing. You find all types of lodging. fruit. from luxury old-world palaces and super-high-tech showoffs to hip boutique hotels. and some cold cuts. or B&B) must open its doors for inspection to be able to list and rent rooms. In a pension. Breakfast (Frühstück) always is included in the price of a room. located in or near the main train stations in all German cities and towns. regional tourist associations. depending on the size and degree of luxury. can help you find a room. cereal.75). breakfast is more likely to be a self-serve buffet with juice. Most tourist information centers also have a free directory of local accommodations. so the service ends up costing nothing. and others charge 10 percent of the first night’s hotel rate. eggs. cozy inns. Hotel associations. except at some boutique and high-end luxury hotels. buttoned within a sheet. small family-run hotels. fresh bread. The term for “no smoking” is nicht rauchen (nickt rau-kin).Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 83 Tourist information centers. Even the smallest Pension (bed-and-breakfast. you find a Decke (deck-uh) on the bed. but you get that back at the hotel. In all types of accommodations in Germany. rustic guesthouses. But remember that Europeans in general are not as committed to smokefree environments as are Americans. You won’t find a speck of Schmutz (dirt) in any of them.

beginning with the most expensive. The hotel has at least two fine gourmet restaurants. Sheraton. 24-hour room service is available. in particular — have properties in this luxury category.25 per bag). What you don’t get is a free breakfast. Radisson SAS. Boutique hotels generally have fewer than 70 rooms and offer a unique ambience and high level of personalized service. Bathrooms are large and well equipped with magnifying mirrors. you have several different kinds of hotels and accommodations from which to choose. cable and satellite TV. Hotel Brandenburger Hof in Berlin (Chapter 11) emphasizes a sleek. the Hotel Excelsior Ernst in Cologne (Chapter 22) and the Hotel Adlon in Berlin (Chapter 22) are two of the most luxurious luxury hotels. satellite TV. and Treff Hotels. Kempinski. and high-quality toiletries. and Romantic Hotels. The staff is unusually welcoming and the service impeccable. Park Plaza/ Art’otel. and bathrobes. Le Meridien. Luxury hotels Public spaces in luxury hotels are sophisticated and elegant. Travel Charme. and the property has an on-site health club. The Bleibtreu in Berlin (Chapter 11) is big on hip. Mövenpick. Ringhotels. and bathrobes. which you can find in every chapter’s hotel listings and in the appendix. Your bed is turned down at night. Inter-Continental. a couple of phones. a minibar. Best Western. The rooms themselves are generally spacious and beautifully furnished with amenities such as a minibar. they generally cost 150€ ($188) and up. telephone. These establishments often are part of hotel associations. but they are beautifully fitted out. tubs (often with whirlpools) and showers. Mercure. and international chains include Accor. usually with a sauna and pool. high-speed and wireless Internet access. Pricewise. Most boutique hotels are too small to have a pool or health club but may have an arrangement with a nearby facility. but also look for special weekend rates on the hotels’ Web sites. highspeed and wireless Internet access. For the . Each one has its own personality.84 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In Germany. Ramada — names you probably know — all have hotels in Germany. Charges for the (fabulous) breakfast buffet are anywhere from 17€ to 22€ ($21–$27). classic Bauhaus style. I describe each type. In the following sections. German. Boutique hotels Think of them as small luxury hotels. Expect to pay 175€ ($219) and up. Swissôtel. Some brand-name hotel chains — Hyatt. Chain hotels Holiday Inn. such as Relais & Châteaux. Rooms and bathrooms are not always large. Der Kleine Prinz in Baden-Baden (Chapter 17) is built around oldfashioned luxury. Small Luxury Hotels. which often are the best restaurants in town. InterCity Hotels (always near train stations). and Steigenberger. European. Porters are available to take your luggage up to your room (tip 1€/$1. Amenities typically include brand-name toiletries. Breakfast may or may not be included. contemporary design. Boutique hotels always have a fine-dining restaurant and a bar.

Most guesthouses don’t have an elevator. have just a few rooms. In these hotels. Tour packagers and convention planners often house their groups in chain hotels. other rooms have sinks but share bathrooms and showers in the hallway. usually no more than three total. You probably won’t find a telephone in your room or too many amenities. you find a telephone and cable TV. The rooms are smaller and have a more standardized décor than rooms in luxury hotels. or in the country than in large cities. You’re more likely to find guesthouses in small towns. a word sometimes attached to a hotel’s name. lunch. Room service is available. . comfortable rooms without much personality but at hard-to-beat prices. The restaurant occupies the main or first floor. Garni. and dinner to hotel guests and outside patrons. and sometimes a minibar. Guesthouses A guesthouse.or three-star rating by the local tourist authority. depending on the time of year and the presence of trade shows or conventions. which typically are given a two. chain hotels offer brand-name familiarity and dependable service. Some rooms have small private bathrooms with showers or bathtubs. and many of the properties are older and located in the oldest and most picturesque quarters of the city. in medium-sized cities. They also tend to be newish. expect to pay anywhere from 110€ to 175€ ($137–$219). The ambience tends to be rustic and cozy. In general. Smaller independent hotels Many small and medium-sized hotels in Germany are family owned and operated. cable TV.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 85 most part. called a Gasthaus (gahst-house) or a Gasthof (gahsthofe). Prices for a small to midsize independent hotel range from 85€ to 175€ ($106–$219). means that breakfast is the only meal the hotel serves. and the hotel often has an on-site pool or health club with sauna. and the upper floors. some with breakfast included. The inn may also offer a special rate for dinner or lunch and dinner. You generally find different room categories. but your rate will include breakfast. enormous. Rates at small and midsize properties always include a buffet breakfast. Shopping around on the Web may net you some big savings. Amenities include a telephone. Bathrooms are smaller and less glamorous than the ones in a luxury or boutique hotel property. Prices vary greatly for chain hotels. Rates are typically from 55€ to 110€ ($69–$137). is basically an inn with a restaurant that serves breakfast. Properties like Hotel Jedermann in Munich (Chapter 15) or Hotel-Garni Brugger in Lindau (Chapter 17) offer basic. and somewhat anonymous. The rooms themselves often are charming — what you’d typically expect in an old-world inn. The Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg and Feriengasthof Helmer in Schwangau (see Chapter 16 for both) are examples of this kind of accommodations.

Some half a million beds are available in private homes across the country. Breakfast always is included in the price. In all but the smallest accommodations. hotel rates usually go down in July and August. although some of these properties do offer special rates for longer stays. and Dec). or you may have to share the bathroom. (That’s because the hotel often gives the agent a discount in exchange for steering his business toward that hotel. Prices aren’t negotiable at smaller hotels.86 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Pensions The Pension (pronounced pen-see-own in Germany) has long been the backbone of budget travel in Germany. You sometimes see these rates printed on the fire/emergency-exit diagrams posted on the back of your door. Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. Sept. You may be pleasantly surprised. with breakfast included in the price. Hotels are happy to charge you the rack rate. Room rates (even rack rates) change with the season. and in some cases. and guesthouses. pensions. but you can almost always do better. Keep in mind that many pensions operate on a cash-only basis. the central reservations number may not know about discount rates at specific locations. Pension Niebuhr in Berlin (Chapter 11) is a good big-city pension. prices are higher in large cities. considered high season elsewhere in Europe. as occupancy rates rise and fall. You may luck out and find a place with a private bathroom. (See Chapter 3 for more information on Germany’s different seasons. rooms start around 30€ ($37) per person per night. In smaller towns. If you travel in the high season (Apr–June. often advertised with a simple sign: Zimmer frei (room available). On the other hand.) But . A pension is the same as a B&B (bed-and-breakfast): a room in a private home or apartment. It’s the rate you get if you walk in off the street and ask for a room for the night. Your best bet is to call both the local number and the toll-free number and see which one gives you a better deal.) Reserving a room through the hotel’s toll-free number also may result in a lower rate than calling the hotel directly. you’ll probably pay more. the rate you pay for a room depends on many factors — chief among them being how you make your reservation. Perhaps the best way to avoid paying the rack rate is surprisingly simple: Just ask for a cheaper or discounted rate. In Germany. but you generally won’t have a phone. you can also use the kitchen. A travel agent may be able to negotiate a better price with certain hotels than you can get by yourself. Amenities vary from place to place. so you may or may not have a TV.

can help you search multiple hotel sites at once — even ones you may never have heard of — and conveniently lists the total price of the room. and Expedia soon will be able to plug directly into the reservations systems of many hotel Also reliable are Hotels. a good portion of which get misplaced in the and Quikbook. many of the major sites are undergoing improvements in service and ease of and Starwood chains) and is therefore plugged directly into the hotels’ reservations systems — unlike independent online agencies that have to fax or e-mail reservation requests to the hotel.travelweb. In the meantime. For more tips about how to get the best room rate. .com. room prices are subject to change without notice. Surfing the Web for hotel deals Shopping online for hotels generally is done one of two ways: by booking through the hotel’s own Web site or through an independent booking agency (or a fare-service agency like Priceline). because prices can vary considerably from site to site. You never know when the affiliation may be worth a few euros off your room rate. so the rates quoted in this book may be different from the actual rate you receive when you make your reservation. Hyatt. Be sure to mention membership in AAA. Of the “big three” sites. To be fair. frequent-flier programs. is partly owned by the hotels it represents (including the Hilton. competing for the business of millions of consumers surfing for accommodations around the world. Another booking site. More than once.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 87 even within a given season. see the information about choosing a tour package in Chapter 6. This competitiveness can be a boon to consumers who have the patience and time to shop for and compare the online sites for good deals — but shop they must. Expedia offers a long list of special deals and virtual tours or photos of available rooms so you can see what you’re paying for. These Internet hotel agencies have multiplied in mind-boggling numbers of late. AARP. and any corporate rewards programs you can think of when you call to book. TravelAxe (www. An excellent free program. travelers have arrived at the hotel only to be told that they have no reservation. And keep in mind that hotels at the top of a site’s listing may be there for no other reason than that they paid money to get the placement. Travelweb (www. getting a confirmation number and making a printout of any online booking transactions are good practices. including the taxes and service charges. Travelocity posts unvarnished customer reviews and ranks its properties according to the AAA rating system.

you may be better off using a site devoted primarily to ߜ www. ߜ Hotel Online (www. ߜ Landidyll (www. Note: Some hotels don’t provide loyalty-program credits or points or other frequent-stay amenities when you book a room through opaque online services. which you won’t find on the more mainstream booking services.tripadvisor. Go to the BiddingForTravel. Although the major travel booking sites (Frommer’s. look at images of the and then e-mail the innkeeper if you have questions. it sometimes has rooms at hotels that are sold out. Orbitz. Because the site prebooks blocks of rooms.quickbook. many hotels stick Priceline guests in their least desirable rooms. Priceline is even better for booking hotels than it is for booking flights. and Orbitz) offer hotel booking. another good site if you can read German. You often find properties not listed with more general online travel agencies. You can find a B&B in Berlin or the Black Forest. ߜ InnSite (www. and the fee is nonrefundable. It features independent hotels throughout Germany and northern Europe that are a good value for your money. the following Web sites will help you with booking hotel rooms online: ߜ www. check prices and provides B&B listings for inns in dozens of countries around the globe. .com) lists bargain rates at hotels throughout Germany.180096hotel. is a site that you may want to use if you can read Web site ( ߜ before bidding on a hotel room on Priceline. Some lodging sites specialize in a particular type of accommodations. it features a fairly up-to-date list of hotels that Priceline uses in major cities.travelweb. and Hotwire. you pay upfront. you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel before offering up your money.biddingfortravel. such as B&Bs. On the downside. The following list includes sites that enable you to make online reservations at hotels throughout Germany: ߜ Hotel Discounts (www.88 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany In addition to Travelocity. Priceline is much better at getting five-star lodging for three-star prices than at finding anything at the bottom of the scale. Travelocity. Call its toll-free number (% 800-364-0801) if you want more options than the Web site lists online. including Germany. For Priceline. focuses on family hotels all across Germany that are managed according to ecological principles and have gastronomic flair. ߜ In the opaque Web site category.

within reason. Reserving the best room After you make your reservation. lists more than 16. and have more windows and light than standard rooms. ߜ Always ask for a corner room. they should be happy to accommodate you. and focuses on chains such as Hyatt and Hilton. offer weekend deals at many leading chains. ߜ Travelweb (www.srs-worldhotels. You can book almost 90 percent of these accommodations online. talk to the front desk. request a room away from the renovation work. . asking a few more pointed questions can go a long way toward making sure you get the best room in the house. if you aren’t happy with your room when you arrive. If they have another room.travelweb. if it is. Its Click-It Weekends. including has about 450 hotels worldwide. and discos in the hotel — all sources of annoying noise. updated each Monday. quieter. and they don’t always cost more.000 hotels worldwide. ߜ Ask whether the hotel is renovating. They’re usually larger. including first-class and resort hotels throughout Germany. ߜ Inquire about the location of the restaurants.Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations 89 ߜ SRS-Worldhotels (www. You can check for special discounted and weekend rates at many great German hotels. Finally.

cometogermany. Gays and lesbians may want to know about welcoming places and events. from toddlers to teens. with its section on family travel is a good place to begin researching your trip.germany-tourism. . Seniors may like to take advantage of discounts or tours designed especially for them. But family travel can be immensely rewarding. People with disabilities need to ensure that sites on their itineraries are dragging them thousands of miles away to a country where a different language is spoken may seem like an insurmountable challenge. children). de or www. but traveling anywhere with Kinder (kin-der. The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www.Chapter 9 Catering to Special Needs or Interests In This Chapter ᮣ Traveling with your kids ᮣ Discovering discounts and special tours for seniors ᮣ Locating wheelchair-accessible attractions ᮣ Finding lesbigay communities and special events ᮣ Tracing Germany’s Jewish history M any of today’s travelers have special interests or needs. In this chapter. Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families Germany is a pretty kid-friendly country. is a challenge — no doubt about it. Jewish visitors may want to visit Holocaust memorials and worship in a synagogue. giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes. Parents may want to take their children along on trips. If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning. I offer advice and resources for all these travelers.

Ask questions before you reserve. Smaller pensions. youngsters. . and Family Travel Files (www. TravelWithYourKids (www.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 91 You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Forum (www. For information on passport requirements for children. Admission prices for attractions throughout Germany are reduced for children ages 6 to 14. or bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs).familytravelnetwork. local restaurants. and midsize German cities have American-style fast-food places. see Chapter 10. you can keep costs down by eating at lowkey.thefamilytravelfiles. Younger teens traveling in Berlin and Munich may want to check out the Hard Rock Cafe in those cities. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. The establishment may bring in an extra cot or let you share a larger room. children ages 6 to 11 pay half the adult fare. I use it to highlight hotels. The same is true for public transportation: Low-priced family or group tickets usually are available. which considerably reduces the admission price for a group of two adults and two or more children. In fact. an award-winning site that offers travel features. Expensive. Locating family-friendly businesses Most German hotels happily accommodate your family if you reserve your rooms in advance and make the staff aware that you’re traveling with kids. always check to see whether the attraction offers a money-saving family ticket. however. find these food chains in smaller villages and towns. You won’t. The menus aren’t geared to the tastes of U. a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning. and the staff can be less than welcoming to children who are not well behaved. such as cramped rooms and shared toilet facilities. Zeroing in on these places can help you plan your trip more quickly and easily. Berlin. and tips. even when the place welcomes kids. On trains. If you’re traveling with children. which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.S. may present problems. In larger cities. and attractions that are particularly family friendly. Kids younger than 6 almost always get in for free.familytravelforum. high-toned restaurants in Germany are not particularly welcoming toward young and children younger than 6 travel free. Look for the Kid Friendly icon as you flip through this book. including Burger King and McDonald’s. in Germany you don’t see many families dining in expensive restaurants. Family Travel Network (www. these types of arrangements are common. deals.

What are your options? Ask your hotel staff whether they can recommend a local baby-sitting service. Therefore. be aware that not all hotels — particularly smaller. as they’re called in Germany. however. Germany’s ever-present Wurst (voorst.92 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany The best of the Wurst Your time in Germany may be a good opportunity to introduce your kids to some dishes that they’ve never tried. less-expensive pensions and guesthouses — have elevators. you may find that some discounts are available only for German or EU (European Union) residents. Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors Germany won’t present any problems for you if you’re a senior who gets around easily. . When you reserve a hotel. The staircases in some places are a test for anyone with luggage. If not. Note: In Germany. For something more familiar. when you plan your trip. Most of the hotels marked with a Kid Friendly icon in this book can help arrange baby-sitting. But you can’t take Junior along on this special evening. a trip to a museum may try the patience of those children who can’t understand what they’re reading. Carrying an ID with proof of age can pay off in all these situations. Being a senior may entitle you to some terrific travel bargains. You can spur your kids’ interest (and your own) by buying a German language tape or checking one out from the library. the selection may not include as many presweetened varieties as in the United States. everyone can spend an hour together. such as lower prices for German Rail Passes and reduced admission at museums and other attractions. When considering museums. In the evening. many of the top museums offer audio guides in English. and familiarizing themselves with the sounds of the German language and learning at least a few words. ask whether you’ll have access to an elevator or a Fahrstuhl (far-shtool). Always ask. However. bear in mind that most German museums do not translate their signage and texts into English. sausage) is 100 percent meat with no filler. kids can choose from a selection of cereals at most buffet breakfasts in hotels. listening to the tape. even if the reduction isn’t posted. Hiring a baby sitter in Germany What you really need is an exciting evening at the opera and a romantic late dinner with a glass of fine German wine. including discounts on US Airways flights to Frankfurt and Munich from several U. MA 02210. Elderhostel (% 877-426-8056) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries around the world. % 800221-2610 or offers package deals for the 50-plus market. 101 Tips for Mature Travelers. and insurance.S. These courses are value-packed. DC 20049. With a annual membership of around $13 (anyone 50 or older can join). % 877-4268056. www.gct. not specifically seniors. www. hassle-free ways to learn while tips. available from Grand Circle Travel (% 800-221-2610 or 617-350-7500.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 93 The sources in the following list can provide information about discounts and other benefits for seniors: ߜ AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons. Popular Germany offerings in 2006 included “Heartland of Classical Music..eldertreks. and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill). with trips around the world that include guided safaris. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www. travel50andbeyond.gct. And you’ll be glad to know that you won’t be is a high-end tour operator that caters to the offers people 55 and older a variety of university-based education programs in Berlin and throughout Germany.” ߜ Grand Circle Travel (347 Congress St. discerning traveler. The price includes airfare. INTRAV (% 800-456-8100. restricted to travelers 50 and older. ElderTreks (% 800741-7956. mostly of the tour-bus variety but also including river cruises along the Rhine and Mosel. offers small-group tours to off-thebeaten-path or adventure-travel locations. MA 02110-1941. www.” and “The Rhine and Mosel River Valleys. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Boston. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits. cities and discounts on escorted tours from Globus and Cosmos. and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers. major tour operators offering trips to Germany. meals. by Joann Rattner Heilman. 601 E St.elderhostel. . Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon).. private-jet offers member discounts on car rentals and hotels. tuition. www.intrav. NW. polar expeditions.” “Treasures of the Elbe River Valley. www. www. % 866-687-2277. ߜ Elderhostel (75 Federal St.

and transportation abroad. ߜ AirAmbulanceCard. is a good place to begin researching your trip. 250 City Rd. Survival Strategies for Going travel/index.emerginghorizons. Here are some other helpful resources in the United States: ߜ The Moss Rehab Hospital ( and Open World Magazine. .cometogermany.icanonline. British travelers with disabilities may want to contact RADAR (Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation. 12 City is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency. a 658-page book of resources that covers everything from biking trips to scuba outfitters. www..sath. www. A disability needn’t stop anybody from traveling. access guides. vehicle provides general information on accessible travel. publishes A World of offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations. Locating resources The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. travel insurance.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel.mossresourcenet. org.” containing information on trip planning. fax: 212-725-8253. www. % 020/7250-3222. de or www. and a newsletter. % 212447-7284. the community Web site iCan (www. ߜ The American Foundation for the Blind (% In fact. For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities. with its section on travel for the disabled. ߜ The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH. Germany is one of the more advanced countries in Europe when it comes to accessibility for disabled travelers. because more options and resources are available than ever before. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www. Over the Rainbow. afb.94 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities The German word for disabled is behindert (bee-hin-dert).radar.germany-tourism. and companion services. which publishes vacation “fact provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. specialized accommodations. fax: 020/7250-0212. published by SATH. tour operators.miusa. London EC1V ߜ Mobility International USA (% 541-343-1284. travel agents.

Not all U-Bahn (subway) stations have wheelchair access. fax: 605-334-0000. and accessible activities. www. and Canada. pronounced roll-shtool) presents unique challenges. www. Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair) Traveling in a wheelchair (called a Rollstuhl. or they may not be wide . national Tourism Coordination Agency for All People. bahn. For many wheelchair-bound travelers. you can find special offers and a list of German tour operators offering special tours and travel opportunities. in larger is the central organization in the country for all inquiries concerning barrier-free (click on “Mobilität&Service” and “Handicap”). However. On the Web site. Some 385 train stations throughout the country have lifting aids or mobile ramps. Kirchfeldstrasse 149. fax: 0211/33-68-760. public buses are generally wheelchair has information on the accessibility of public buildings throughout Germany. Thanks to its comprehensive accessibility. disabilitytravel. or 605-366-0202.Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 95 If you can read German. Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) offers transportation service for the disabled. But others want the adventures of being on their own. and the rest of Germany (more in the western part than the east) have rooms for the disabled (these tend to be in larger. ߜ The Web site You-Too ( ߜ S E Unlimited Travel (% 800-552-9798 in the U. % 0211/33-68-001. accessible accommodations. Several organizations offer tours designed to meet the needs of travelers with disabilities. Munich. Most of the older and less expensive pensions and guesthouses don’t have elevators. you may want to use one of these resources: ߜ Nationale Koordinationsstelle Tourismus für Alle (NatKo. Tour operators with trips to Germany include ߜ Accessible Journeys (% 800-846-4537 or 610-521-0339. www. The international airports in Munich and Frankfurt are wheelchair accessible. 40215 Düsseldorf. Germany offers both options. natko. You can also find information (in English) for disabled travelers on its Web site. under “Reiseinfos” (Travel Information).you-too. an escorted tour is a necessity. Many hotels in Berlin. more modern hotels). including free seating reservations for travelers in wheelchairs.seunlimitedtravel.S. You can reserve your seat in advance and get information about traveling with a disability by calling the special Deutsche Bahn number for disabled travelers at % 01805/512-512.

If you’re interested in gliding down the Rhine and Mosel rivers. in small towns and large. dance clubs. gay) or lesbisch (lez-bish. looking at vineyards and castles. Hamburg. and Cologne all have large gay communities.96 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany enough for a wheelchair. the Köln-Düsseldorfer (KD) line has wheelchair-accessible boats (see Chapter 19 for more about KD and Rhine journeys). Most of the top sights in the country are wheelchair accessible. and stages its famous Loveparade in mid-July. too (again. or Gruppen (group) tickets. . historical areas. but gay life flourishes outside the big cities.” earlier in this section). Larger theaters and performing-arts venues are often wheelchair Although not all restaurants provide wheelchair Also keep in mind that in older. Find information on the Web at www. celebrates its Christopher Street Day and Parade around the third weekend in June. and community centers exists throughout the country. lesbian). cafes. most restaurants are happy to accommodate people with disabilities. With most family. parades and special events celebrate gay pride. all that matters is that two (or more) individuals travel together. Celebrating gay pride in Germany Every summer. ߜ Munich celebrates Christopher Street Day in mid-July. call first). although calling ahead to make arrangements and getting directions to special entrances and/or elevators always is a good idea. you’ll find plenty to do in Deutschland. Berlin. Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians Germany is one of the most “developed” countries in the world when it comes to gay pride. or use one of the travel agencies that specializes in travel for people with disabilities (see “Locating resources. Munich. Gay and lesbian couples (or friends) qualify for family tickets on public transportation in many Germany cities. A network of gay or gay-friendly restaurants. gay culture. Frankfurt. you have to deal with cobblestones. too. stores. Ask about this issue before you reserve. Lesbigay travelers may want to time their visits to coincide with these big festivals: ߜ Berlin holds its annual Gay & Lesbian Street Festival in mid-June. If you are schwul (shwool. and gay tourism. bars.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) maintains a worldwide network of gay and lesbian travelagent professionals who can help you plan your trip. The following are just a few of the other Web sites you may want to check out as you begin to plan your trip to Germany: ߜ PinkPassport (www. Unfortunately. with its section on gay and lesbian travel. Researching German lesbigay life on the Web The German National Tourist Office’s Web site (www. de or www. For information on the nearest IGLTA travel agent and gay-friendly resources in One of the best all-purpose gay sites — albeit the Web site is in German — for lesbigay travelers planning a trip to Germany.iglta. ߜ www. ߜ Cologne’s Christopher Street Weekend usually is the first weekend in June. contact IGLTA (% 800-448-8550. is a good place to begin researching your This site is a destination service provider for international gay travelers. because Berlin is such a great destination for gay tours).Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests 97 Pride and politics Perhaps some of the openness of gay life in Germany today has to do with the murderous antihomosexual policies of the Nazis. That may explain why German gays and lesbians today are so politically active and determined not to tolerate discrimination. Germany seems to fall below the radar screen of most gay tour operators (too ߜ Hamburg celebrates with a Gay Pride Parade and Festival around June 8 to 10. Stadt means “city.cometogermany. www. untold thousands of homosexuals were arrested and sent to their deaths in labor camps. (By the way.”) . ߜ Frankfurt’s Christopher Street Weekend takes place around the third weekend in July.pinkpassport. Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators If you want to keep your hard-earned travel money pink. you can use a gay travel service. leading up to and during World War II.stadt. this site enables you to access a lesbigay guide for each city you want to visit. You can select a city in Germany and find out pertinent travel-related information. Between 1933 and 1945.

Try the following Web sites for information on specific cities: www. near Munich.germany-tourism. or www. . Special and very emotional issues confront Jewish visitors to Germany. synagogues have been restored. www. numbering around 70. Jewish life in Germany dates back hundreds of years. contact the German National Tourist Office (www. Throughout the country.cometogermany.gayweb.munich. Remembering the Past: Resources for Jewish Travelers in Germany In this guidebook. and memorials erected. I can’t even begin to scratch the surface of this huge and sensitive and one of the few that’s actually growing. seizure of property and assets. near Another is the Holocaust memorial. and Buchenwald (Chapter 14). This free booklet presents an overview of Jewish history and lists recommended places to visit and what to see. when systematic persecution. Large Jewish communities flourished in cities throughout Germany until the Nazi Germany’s Jewish population is the third-largest in Western Europe. One of the most remarkable is the new Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) in Berlin (Chapter 12). in large part because many Jewish people from the former Soviet Union are choosing to live in Several places are dedicated to remembering the Jewish experience in this The most moving memorials are at Dachau (Chapter 15). For assistance in planning your itinerary. Throughout the centuries. The Germany you visit today is a democratic federal republic sensitive to the past. Jews from all levels of society contributed to German culture. and extermination policies created horrors that are almost beyond and request a copy of Germany for the Jewish Traveler. and or www. www. the largest in Europe.98 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany ߜ Specific city Web completed in Berlin in 2005 between the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer

or call the National Passport Information Center (% 877-487-2778) for automated information.html. go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U. but the process takes some time. To find your regional passport office. you must have a valid passport to enter Germany. passport. Australia. You can’t cross an international border without Getting a passport is easy. or a major post office. passport If you’re applying for a first-time passport. passport office. follow these steps: 1.state.S. Complete a passport application in person at a U. either check the U.state. state. or probate court. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world.S.Chapter 10 Taking Care of the Remaining Details In This Chapter ᮣ Obtaining a passport ᮣ Taking care of your health: Travel and medical insurance ᮣ Communicating via cellphone and e-mail ᮣ Dealing with airline security measures o you have an up-to-date passport? Have you taken steps to meet your health needs while on your trip? Are you wondering how to use a cellphone or access e-mail while in Germany? This chapter gives you the information you need. If you’re a citizen of the United States.S. State Department passport Web site. D Getting a Passport A valid passport is the only legal form of identification accepted around the world. .S. State Department at http://travel. a federal. or Canada. Applying for a U.

com) is a service that can expedite the processing of your first-time passport application. Ottawa. Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade. Pay the fee. American Passport Express (% 800-455-5166. and the United Kingdom: ߜ Australians can visit a local post office or passport office. Present a certified birth certificate as proof of citizenship. For general information. Canada.americanpassport. or Social Security card also is a good idea. Whether you’re applying in person or by mail.ppt. ߜ Canadians can pick up applications at passport offices throughout Canada. State Department passport Web site (http://travel. or log on to www. you can download passport applications from the U. a passport is valid for five years and costs $82.S. processing normally takes three weeks. measuring 2 inches by 2 inches in Applying for other passports The following list offers more information for citizens of Australia. the digital photographs must have a continuous-tone image that looks very photolike. a passport is valid for ten years and costs $97. but it can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). you can renew the passport by mail for $67. Forms can be completed and printed online at the Web site. You may submit digital photos that have been printed on your printer at home. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport. You can also .gc. and from the central Passport Office. For those 15 and younger. www. If you have a passport in your current name that was issued within the past 15 years and you were older than 16 when it was issued. New Zealand. but they must meet the same requirements for all passport photographs. grainy-looking photos composed of visible dots are not acceptable. but applications must be submitted in for details on how and where to apply. Submit two identical passport-size photos.100 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany 2. state or military ID. In addition. Ontario K1A 0G3 (% 800-567-6868. you can receive your passport in as little as 24 hours. at post offices. and paying the appropriate fees. Note: You can’t use a strip from a photo-vending machine because the pictures aren’t identical. call the Australia State Passport Office (% 131-232 toll-free from Australia). For people 16 and older. call the National Passport Agency (% 202-647-0518).state. Bringing along your driver’s license. Using this service. 3. You often find businesses that take these photos near a passport office.

com). such as Applications must be accompanied by two identical passport-size photographs and proof of Canadian citizenship. and the type of trip you’re taking. as a member of the European Union. or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. carrying the document with you is a good idea. that the tour company is a reputable one. contact the Passports Office at % 0800225-050 in New Zealand or 04-474-8100. but expect to pay between 5 percent and 8 percent of the vacation itself. Some experts suggest you avoid buying insurance from .) A good resource is “Travel Guard Alerts. a convenient and often cost-effective way for the traveler to obtain insurance. or log on to www. Note: Many tour operators include insurance in the cost of the trip or can arrange insurance policies through a partnering provider. The cost of travel insurance varies widely. as many travelers discovered who tried to cancel their trips in October 2001 because they were wary of flying. govt.ukpa. For more information. consumers can get their money back on goods and services not received if they report the loss within 60 days after the charge is listed on their credit-card statement. need only an identity and lost-luggage insurance. if you already have a passport. Make sure. depending on the cost and length of your trip. Protect yourself further by paying for the insurance with a credit card — by law. however. contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (% 0870-521-0410. to travel to other EU countries. medical insurance.passports. Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance Three kinds of travel insurance are available: trip-cancellation insurance.” a list of companies considered high-risk by Travel Guard International (www. Here is my advice on all three: ߜ Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip. For information. www.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 101 download an application form from the Passport Office Web site. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears. not a passport. ߜ United Kingdom or about three weeks by mail. your age and health. ߜ New Zealanders can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the Passports Office Web site. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. insured. Processing takes five to ten days if you apply in person. However. if you have to go home early.

The airlines are required to deliver luggage. try MEDEX Assistance (% 410-4536300.travelassistance. ߜ Lost-luggage insurance is not necessary for most travelers. or lost baggage within four hours of arrival. up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If your luggage is lost. Even if your plan covers overseas treatment. saying it’s better to buy from a third-party insurer than to put all your money in one place. www.500 per ticketed passenger. immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the For more information. On domestic flights.accessamerica. because many valuables (including books. www. www. contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (% 866-807-3982. money. get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travelinsurance package. because it’s usually for general information on TAI’s services. Don’t buy insurance at the airport. most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage. www. you must report delayed. baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9. travelinsured. Worldwide Assistance Services (% guard. portions of international trips). most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront and send you a refund only after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance or Travel Assistance International (TAI) (% 800-821-2828.worldwide assistance. www. once found. For travel overseas. or Travelex Insurance Services (% 888457-4602. Travel Insured International (% 800-243-3174. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage. you may want to buy travel medical insurance. damaged.S. Travel Guard International (% com). If you require additional medical insurance. or buy the BagTrak product from Travel Guard (% 800-826-4919.07 per pound. checked baggage is covered for up to $ If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability. www. For most airlines. detailing the luggage contents. find out whether your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy. directly to your house or destination free of charge. . As a safety www.102 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany the tour or cruise company you’re traveling with. contact TAI’s service provider. and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront before reimbursing you only after you return home. On international flights (including U.

which immediately alerts doctors to your condition and gives them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line. (Arzt. pronounced artst. For information on purchasing additional medical insurance for your for tips about travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and lists of local English-speaking diabetes. not brand-name. so I strongly advise against it (of course.) A pharmacy in Germany is called an Apotheke (pronounced ah-po-tay-kuh). Bring all your medications with you. For travel abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www. go to any pharmacy. and prescriptions for more (in generic. com. wear a MedicAlert identification tag (% 888-633-4298. make sure the box or container has the pharmacy’s label with your name on it. or heart problems. most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. talk to your doctor before leaving on a trip.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 103 Staying Healthy When You Travel Getting sick will ruin your vacation. The Web site www. A notice will be posted in the window providing the address and telephone number of the closest on-duty pharmacy. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (% 716-754-4883 or. provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. dial % 112 (a free call anywhere in Germany).org). If you have a serious and/or chronic illness. If you have an emergency and need a prescription filled after-hours or on weekends. For domestic trips. sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners. if you need to carry medications with you onboard. www.istm. may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. you can call the Ärtzlicher Notdienst (Medical Emergency Service) listed in the telephone directory. Pharmacies are open regular shopping hours. form) if you worry that you’ll run out. (Remember: Current airline security regulations do not allow you to carry on liquids in containers larger than 3 ounces. In a life-threatening situation. is the German word for a medical doctor. ask the concierge or hotelkeeper to recommend a local doctor. cdc. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (% 800-311-3435. For conditions such as epilepsy. The word for hospital is Krankenhaus (pronounced kronk-in-house). If you fall ill while traveling.S. the bugs weren’t listening to me any more than they probably listen to you). www. see the previous section. last time I checked. in Canada.) At night and on weekends. The U. the number for general emergencies. iamat. and they take turns staying open all night and on weekends. . you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.tripprep. www. 416-652-0137.

However. keep in mind that your U. only a limited number of carriers use GSM. If you’re accustomed to using a cellphone. renting a phone is a good idea.104 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-mail The cheapest and easiest way to call home from Germany. phone won’t work in Germany without a special chip. Many cellphone operators sell “locked” phones that restrict you from using any removable computer memory phone chip (called a SIM card) other than the ones they supply. although possible. I provide general information on using cellphones and sending or receiving e-mail in Germany.50 in western Europe. Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. For that reason.S. from Andorra to Uganda. the staff will be able to direct you to the nearest cybercafe. costs a lot. you can purchase a prepaid German SIM card with call credit already incorporated and easily add more talk time to the SIM card if needed. just call your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to use the phone with a local provider.) You’ll get a local phone number — and much. in Canada.S. a big. per-minute charges can be high — usually $1 to $1. Collecting e-mail is fairly easy in Germany: If you can’t do it at your hotel. so you need to check with your carrier. and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. but it can be done. Having an unlocked phone enables you to install a cheap. I’ve found. In the U. you’ll be asked for proof of residency. if you want to purchase a German SIM card in Germany. or Samsung models are so equipped — you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe. you either need to have a friend or relative in Germany purchase the card for you or buy one in North America before your departure. That’s why it’s important to buy an “unlocked” world phone from the get-go. If your cellphone is on a GSM system. seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. Unfortunately. Getting an already-locked phone unlocked can be a complicated process. is to use a prepaid phone card and the hotel phone. including kiosks at airports . prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in Germany. (Show your phone to the salesperson. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. If you have an unlocked phone. Although you can rent a phone from any number of German sites. The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles).S. In this section. For many. and renting a phone in Germany. and you have a world-capable multiband phone — many Sony Ericsson. Using a cellphone outside the U. Motorola. much lower calling rates. not all phones work on all networks.

The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price mean they need to be avoided whenever independent businesses — two places to start looking are at www. which you’ll also see in shopping and RoadPost (% 888-290-1606 or 905-2725665. You’ll usually pay $40 to $50 per week. Finding a city in Germany that doesn’t have a few cybercafes is hard to do. a mobile phone is called a Handy (pronounced as it’s spelled). But even if you don’t have a computer. using your own laptop — or even a personal digital assistant (PDA) or electronic organizer with a modem — gives you the most flexibility. make sure the phone works. Although no definitive directory exists for cybercafes — they are. And most public libraries around the world offer Internet access free or for a small charge. In Germany. Phone rental isn’t cheap. or go to http://intouch global. Aside from formal cybercafes. That way you can give loved ones and business associates your new number.cybercafe. give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. EST. and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need. If you’re traveling to Europe. The bottom line: Shop around. . Give them your itinerary. where local phone-rental agencies often bill in local currency and may not let you take the phone to another you still can access your e-mail and even your office computer from cybercafes. www. after all. Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (% Of course. I suggest renting the phone before you leave and www. and tourist information offices around the world.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 105 and at car-rental agencies.roadpost.cybercaptive. InTouch also will advise you for free on whether your existing phone will work overseas.htm. Some business centers in large luxury hotels are free for guests. Accessing the Internet away from home You have any number of ways to check your e-mail and access the Internet on the road. These kiosks. but others charge high rates to go online. simply call % 703222-7161 between 9 a. though. plus airtime fees of at least a dollar a minute. which can save you big bucks. and take the phone wherever you go — especially helpful for overseas trips through several countries. local rental companies often offer free incoming calls within their home countries. Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. most youth hostels nowadays have at least one computer with Internet access. www. hotel lobbies. and 4 p.intouchglobal.

com) to view and reply to your home e-mail. and retailers are signing on as wireless hotspots where you can get highspeed connection without cable wires. To locate these free serves up wireless connections at more than 1. Best of all. you may want to open a free. use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe computer to access the GoToMyPC you can plug an 802. but in general you pay around $30 a month for limited access — and as more and more companies jump on the wireless bandwagon. Going Wireless If you’re bringing your own computer. The service offers top-quality security. .cgi/WirelessCommunities.wayport.K. just set yourself up on a nice couch in the lobby. ask your Internet service provider (ISP) whether it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account.gotomypc. If you have an older computer. per-connection. Boingo (www. and coffee shops. (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option. iPass (www. Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail.ipass. T-Mobile Hotspot (http://hotspot.11b wireless Ethernet connection). and per-minute plans.11b/WiFi card (around $50) into your laptop. cafes. but Hotmail has severe spam problems. or a phone line.000 Starbucks coffee shops nationwide. hotel lobbies. networking hardware. go to have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. look into a service called GoToMyPC (www. For more flexibility.S. and more and more hotels. prices are likely to get even more competitive. with a variety of monthly. (followed by the U. com) providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups.mail2web.106 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany To retrieve your e-mail. If you need to access files on your office and Wayport (www. you can use the free mail2web service (www. you don’t need to be staying at the Four Seasons to use the hotel’s network. Some places also provide free wireless networks in cities around the world. the current buzzword in computer access is WiFi (wireless fidelity). through a plan offered by one of several commercial companies that have made wireless service available in airports.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account Many laptops sold during the last year have built-in WiFi capability (an 802. The companies’ pricing policies can be byzantine. If your ISP doesn’t have such an interface. and Japan).net/ index. You sign up for wireless access service much as you do cellphone service. Mac owners have their own networking technology called Apple AirPort. The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere — even a cybercafe — provided your target PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable).personaltelco. primarily in the U. but if you’re worried about hackers.

major ISPs have local access numbers around the world. Check your ISP’s Web site or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home. Generally. go to www. and sometimes even the gate. (At present.S. security procedures at U. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline’s Web site. and many hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat. bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters.Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 107 If WiFi isn’t available. For a list of iPass providers. if you’re flying on to Germany you’ll have to use the “oldfashioned” airport check-in at the airline’s ticket counter.S.” One solid provider is i2roam (% 866-811-6209 or 920-235-0475. and you’ll be required to show your passport at that time. government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport (for international flights. enabling you to go online by simply placing a local call. you’ll be fine as long as you arrive at the airport one hour before a domestic flight and two hours before an international flight. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. In addition. Keeping Up with Airline Security With the federalization of airport security. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider. you will need to show your passport at check-in) and click on “Individual Purchase. and printing out your boarding pass — and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so. Wherever you go. but they do for international flights to most countries. and a spare Ethernet network cable — or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. which then tells you how to set up your computer for your destination. airports. you can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from your home computer. Bring a current. online check-in is available for domestic flights only. the security checkpoint.) If you’re using a kiosk at the airport. If you have an E-ticket.ipass. bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. a spare phone cord. you’ll be . most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems. and how much it will cost. accessing your reservation. And E-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. the iPass network has dial-up numbers in most of the world’s countries.) The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all (Children younger than 18 do not need government-issued photo IDs for domestic flights. www. If you’re traveling outside the reach of your ISP. Call your hotel in advance to see what your options are. if you show up late. tell an airline employee and she’ll probably whisk you to the front of the line.

for some reason) for bombs.brookstone. because explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate. nail clippers are okay. are allowed one carry-on bag.108 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany able to do so using most airline kiosks. such as a purse. You can now purchase luggage locks that enable screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary.S. Curbside check-in also is a good way to avoid lines. tell an airline employee. as long as it has a laptop in it. visit www. . Security-checkpoint lines are getting call before you go. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles.jsp) for details. your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag. the airline will provide a public/index. check its Web site (www. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security. com). Look for Travel Sentry–certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www. Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. but some doozies remain. or laptop bag. Travelers in the U. These locks are approved by the TSA and can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. The general rule is that sharp things are out. briefcase. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items. and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine — but security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee cup. If you’ve got metallic body parts. Bring food in your carryon instead of checking it. Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. except for folks escorting disabled passengers or children. Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system. however. For more information on the locks. a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners.tsa. it’s still considered a personal item. but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available. a few airlines still ban curbside check-in. plus a personal item.travelsentry.

Part III Northern and Eastern Germany .

Chapter 11 fills you in on all the Berlin basics: getting there. bordering the Baltic and the North Sea. with so many historic buildings that UNESCO recognizes the city as a World Heritage Site. . the region’s largest city and greatest port. eastern Germany has been in the midst of a major building and rebuilding boom. I devote Chapter 12 to exploring the largest and most exciting city in Germany. and finding the best hotels and restaurants. the country’s “new” capital. full of proud reminders of its seafaring past. and location on the Elbe River. All three of these cities were members of the powerful Hanseatic League that ruled the seas and dominated trade in northern Europe for hundreds of years. I devote two chapters to Berlin. I tell you all about Hamburg. From Hamburg you can make an easy side trip to beautiful Lübeck. Leipzig. Northern Germany. with its superb museums. In Chapter 14. I also tell you about visiting the Thuringian Forest and taking a boat trip into the scenic region known as Saxon Switzerland. istory has left its mark throughout northern and eastern Germany. Since reunification in 1990. historic panache. In Chapter 14. a busy business city where the “peaceful revolution” began. I introduce you to the best places to visit in this newly opened region: Dresden. getting around. . or Bremen. is the focus of Chapter 13. and nowhere more so than in Berlin. and Weimar.H In this part . city of Goethe and one of Germany’s cultural jewels. .

laced with sharp-edged humor and sarcastic irreverence. and for almost 30 years. during the Berlin Airlift of 1948. the most exciting city in Europe. Berlin was split in two. even if you don’t speak German. The city then was divided into U. Their cosmopolitan live-and-let-live attitude. and bus ᮣ Choosing your hotel ᮣ Picking a good restaurant ᮣ Finding a cafe or brewpub erlin is. artistic brilliance. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin.Chapter 11 Settling Into Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Berlin ᮣ Traveling from the airport into the city ᮣ Orienting yourself to the neighborhoods ᮣ Getting around by subway. a fizz and a flair and a drive that you find nowhere else in Germany. Your experiences can be as sophisticated. perhaps because they’ve been through so much. You feel a sense of immediacy in Berlin because everything is happening at once — past. and I would urge anyone visiting Germany to spend at least a couple of days here. food and supplies had to be flown in because the Soviets blockaded the city. part of the reason why a visit here is so intriguing. and future meet and meld all over the place. with the wall down and Deutschland reunited. This city has seen it all — Prussian power. and Nazi terror — and survived to tell the tale. When you’re in Berlin. present. By the end of World War II (WWII).S. physically and politically. “Berlin bleibt doch Berlin. Berlin has a kind of inexhaustible energy. for my money. endless political upheaval. The wall went up in 1961. Now. But. you see a city in transition. British. even as the city reinvents itself yet again. train. both triumph and tragedy. and Russian sectors. In many ways it’s a new city — and yet. You can dive into Berlin on many levels. have always been a breed apart.. or raunchy as you want them to be. gives the city an added bite. cultured. Berlin once again is the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany.” B . Berliners. much of Berlin was reduced to smoldering rubble.” That old song lyric meaning “Berlin always remains Berlin” still holds true. Later.

Berlin’s main tourist information center is at the nearby Europa Center (see “Finding Information After You Arrive” later in this chapter). ߜ A taxi ride to central Berlin (east or west) costs 16€ to 20€ ($20– $25) and takes about 20 minutes. Inside the terminal. open daily 7:30 a.S. use euro coins (no bills) to buy your ticket from the driver. www. (For information on public you have to change planes in Frankfurt or another European city. depending on what airline you use. From there you can change to the subway and reach any destination.112 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Getting There You can arrive in Germany’s capital and largest city by plane. you find currency-exchange windows and a small branch of the tourist information center (no phone. Four buses run from the airport into central Berlin.m. ߜ Bus X9. where you also find the taxi stand. On all other flights from the United States.–7 you can take a bus or taxi.m. . another express bus.) where you can pick up free city-transit maps and general-interest brochures and buy a bus ticket into town. The facility recently was revamped to make it more passenger-friendly. The X9 takes about 20 minutes to reach Zoo Station.50). the central train station in the western part of the city near Kurfürstendamm. The X9 also goes to the Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). the regular two-zone A/B fare. connects to the Jakob-Kaiser-Platz U-Bahn (underground train) station. Delta flies from New York JFK to Berlin Tegel). By plane Continental and Delta are the only U. At the train station. see “Getting Around Berlin. is on the outskirts of central Berlin in Reinickedorf. Buses arrive outside the airport terminal.) ߜ TXL Express Bus runs about every ten minutes between the airport and Potsdamer Platz. tickets for each of them cost 2. Berlin’s main and most convenient airport. you can connect to the U-Bahn or the S-Bahn (elevated train). Another bus that goes to Zoo Station is Bus 109. the “new” center of Berlin. To get into central Berlin from Tegel.10€ ($2. Berlin has two airports. which travels down Kurfürstendamm and takes about 30 minutes. or car.” later in this chapter. airlines to offer direct flights to Berlin from within the United States (Continental flies from Newark to Berlin Tegel. and Unter den Linden in Mitte. Arriving at Berlin International Airport in Tegel Tegel (TXL) airport (% 0180/5000-186. both with easy public-transportation connections to the city at standard public fares. Friedrichstrasse. train. On the bus.

Bus. Taxis wait outside the terminal. you can take the U7 subway to Bahnhof Zoo in about 50 minutes. The S-Bahn station is a ten-minute walk from the airport terminal. when this spectacular new travel hub opened. The airport also was the base for the Berlin Airlift in 1948.S. while another airport.10€ ($2. A taxi ride to the Alexanderplatz area in Mitte takes about 45 to 60 minutes and costs about 50€ ($62).-built Tegel airport served West Berlin. or S-Bahn fare is 2. or you can take Bus 171. an S-Bahn that leaves the Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld station about every 20 minutes for central Berlin. By train You can reach Berlin by train from everywhere in Europe. As part of a new plan for Berlin airports. www. is the old East Berlin airport. All longdistance trains now arrive and depart from the spectacular new Hauptbahnhof (main train station). was Berlin’s main airport during the Third Reich.50).de). Arriving at Berlin-Schönefeld Schönefeld (SXF) (% 01805/000-186. The Hauptbahnhof and all of Berlin’s smaller railway stations (for regional service) are connected to public buses. During the Cold War. From the U-Bahn station.hbf-berlin. stopping at Alexanderplatz and Fredrichstrasse in Berlin Mitte (eastern Berlin).de).S. U-Bahn. call the Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). Schönefeld. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). reunified Berlin was . www.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 113 A tale of three airports Tempelhof. when U. For 24-hour train information. served travelers to the city’s Communist. and Bahnhof Zoo (about a 30minute journey) in the western center of Berlin. built in the 1920s. now mostly used for low-cost airlines and European charter flights. All air traffic will then be consolidated into a single hub called Berlin Brandenburg International Airport. Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof All long-distance high-speed trains now arrive at and depart from the Hauptbahnhof. subways (U-Bahn). eastern sector. The easiest way to get into town from this airport is by Airport Express. the U. Europa Platz 1 (% 0800-1507090 for train schedules. Europe’s newest and largest train station. Tempelhof was closed in October 2004 and a massive $4-billion expansion of Schönefeld airport now is underway. and other Allied forces brought food and supplies to the city during the Soviet blockade. Until 2006. a shuttle service that runs from the airport to the S-Bahn station and the Rudow U-Bahn station. located about 24km (15 miles) southeast of the city. When the project is completed. Tegel also will in 2011.

It’s an enormous place but it’s been designed to facilitate up to 300.” later in this chapter. Trains arrive and depart on the lowest level (track numbers easily identified). to handle train tickets and information. however. the pavilion is open daily from 6 a. you’ll want to keep the car parked at your hotel or in a garage. . where you can purchase train tickets and make seat reservations (both centers open daily 6 a.).m. the train travel office Reisezentrum Bahnhof Zoo (% 030/19419) is open daily from 7 a. See “Driving a car. and tickets to all of Berlin’s opera houses. user-friendly terminal. The station has two travel centers. Berlin has one central station. Unless you arrive by a local.m.m. The fate of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Usually called Bahnhof Zoo (Zoo Station. Now. the name given to Berlin’s tourist information centers.m. regional train. buy the Berlin Welcome Card (described under “Getting Around Berlin. The entrance to the S-Bahn (marked by a green S) is on the second floor of the station. Unless you know this huge city well. By car Four Autobahn (freeway) routes enter Berlin from western Germany. concert venues. getting around by public transportation is far easier than by car. the SchauLUST Museum Pass (see Chapter 12). you’ll be pulling into this remarkable.m. three enter from the east. for general driving tips in the city.000 travelers every day with a minimum of confusion. maps and Berlin-related books. and theaters (half-price tickets are sold for performances that day). where you find dozens of shops and food options. it’s now used only for regional trains but remains a busy hub for local U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains.–10 p. On the main floor at the north end of the station there’s a BERLIN infostore (open daily 8 a. In fact. and elevated trains (S-Bahn). Inside the station.” later in this chapter). this was the main western train station until the Hauptbahnhof opened in 2006. At the BVG-Pavilion outside the station. for the first time in its history. After you’re in Berlin. to 10 p. Whether you’re staying in western or eastern Berlin. Located close to Kurfürstendamm. getting to your hotel from the Hauptbahnhof couldn’t be easier. to 9 p.m.114 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany served by several smaller stations.). depending on traffic. the main artery in western Berlin. The drive from Frankfurt or Munich takes about eight hours.m. a car is a nuisance.75).–10 p. the entrance to the U-Bahn (marked by a U) is on the first floor. Hardenbergplatz 11. underground trains (U-Bahn).m. you can pick up a free public-transportation map and buy tickets and special passes for buses. elevators (the entire station is barrier-free) or escalators carry you up to the first and second floors. % 01805/996-633). Here you can use the hotel booking service (3€/$3.

getting a handle on this sprawling.” earlier in this chapter).m. The train station Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten.m..m.m.m.m. The zoo . West Berlin was richer. in the Hauptbahnhof (see “Arriving at Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof. Even though the wall has been down since 1989. (Nov–Mar 10 a. (Nov–Mar daily 10 a. to 6 p. open daily from 10 a. Kurfürstendamm 21 (at Joachimstaler Strasse).).–6 p. West Berlin was an island of capitalism inside Communist East Germany.–6 p. to 7 p. The city’s main attractions now are spread almost evenly across the whole city.m. West Berlin’s glitziest artery was — and remains — the 4km-long (21⁄2mile) boulevard known as Kurfürstendamm.. close to Bahnhof Zoo (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). and wilder than its drab eastern counterpart. open daily 8:30 a. to 8 p.m. Berlin has five walk-in infostores: ߜ The main office in western Berlin is in the newly revamped shopping “passage” called Neues Kranzler Eck. to 6 p. The infostores operate one information line (% 030/25-00-25).75). It’s open daily from 10 a. to 8 p. showier.m.m.40€ (50¢) per minute. to 6 p. and half-price music and theater tickets. You can also buy the Berlin Welcome Card (see “Transportation basics” later in this chapter).) Introducing western Berlin From 1961 to 1989.m. weekends 9 a. you can find information or book a hotel room (for a fee of 3€/$3. the SchauLUST museum pass (Chapter 12). you find infostore branches in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). Orienting Yourself in Berlin Covering some 60 square miles. the first and simplest way to understand Berlin is still to think in terms of the old political boundaries of West and East. to 6 p. open Monday through Friday from 8 a. or Bahnhof Zoo for short.m. and Sunday from 10 a. ߜ Another infostore is located under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at Alexanderplatz.m. is the major transportation hub on the western side of the city and a good landmark for orienting yourself. Berlin is one of the world’s largest cities. ߜ In eastern Berlin. bus and subway tickets.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 115 Finding Information After You Arrive At a BERLIN infostore.m. or the Ku-Damm for short. complex metropolis can be difficult. it costs a minimum of 0. (See the “Berlin Neighborhoods” map in this chapter. Scheidermannstrasse. For first-time visitors.m. near the Ku-Damm.m.m.. and in the Berlin Pavilion at the Reichstag. The office is open Monday to Saturday 10 a.).m.

ch g is b ur Brande n a sse Str m am nd ler l o z en oh er dt tä lfs do Ru r he ru hs e ric ass ied tr Fr S e See “Western Berlin Accomodations and Dining” map e ss ra St WILMERSDORF .Allee F ra mm Spandauer Da Spree Ca ue rst r. orfe Wilm e rsd Friedrich- TIERGARTEN S . Strasse des Juni Kaiser r Str. Damm eler kanal Goerd thafen Munich Wes trasse ohrn-S Max-D . Wittenbergplatz Kle Kons tan Stras zer se Uhlandstr.116 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Berlin Neighborhoods Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Kur t-Sc h um ach er D am m SIEMENSSTADT SIEMENSSTADT To Berlin-Tegel Airport sse se tra s es stra e S e Se See “Charlottenburg Attractions” map Putlitzstrasse Lessin gstrasse Stromstr. m dam rsten Kurfü HALENSEE S H Fehrbelliner Platz Bundesallee Grunewald S HOHENZOLLERNDAMM H m am nd r lle zo en oh SCHÖNEBERG rg bu se len tras k ec S M he isc S Hundekehlestrasse Breit e St rass e SCHÖNEBERG Dahlem FRIEDENAU Ha up tst ras se r. S WESTKREUZ S SAVIGNYPLATZ m dam rsten Kurfü Tau en tz Str ass e er pest Budarasse St ien str .Augusta. Bismarckstr Ha Str. Neue Kantstrasse CHARLOTTENBURG S Kantstrasse Leibniz- Savignyplatz S en rd be rg s tr ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN . gens Sickin S i e m e ns s tra sse MOABIT Turmstra sse e wstrass Quitzo r e rg be e rle ass Pe Str Beusselstrasse Tegeler ier str end as or se ff- Schlossgarten Kaiserin. Ott oSuh rAlle e nkl inst r Schloss Charlottenburg M . CHARLOTTENBURG Spandau Kaiserdamm Ma stra rchsse B str achass e strasse Weg TIERGARTEN Le ve tzo ws tra sse BELLEVUE S HANSAVIERTEL 17. ms t isha Lew Europa Center urger Lietzenb i s ts tr. Olbe ssstr Gau strassrse tr. See “Tiergarten-area Attractions” map Hohenst aufenstr.

S . Str as se M da üh m len m - den Unter den Lin Friedrich- Museumsinsel NIKOLAIVIERTEL Ge rt str raud as en se - Kar l-M arx -Al lee JANNOWITZBRÜCKE TIERGARTEN UNTER DEN LINDEN BERLINMITTE S n d w ehrkanal Schöneb Potsda mer S tra sse e ANHALTER BAHNHOF Lin den stra s La S fe r em p e l hofe r Ufe Gitschiner Strasse r La n d sse stra rck o Y S Gne is YORCKSTRASSE KREUZBERG enau stras se Kolonnenstrasse Katzbackstrasse Dudenstrasse Columbiadamm asse nstr hafe Flug To BerlinSchönefeld Airport B o elck es trasse Berlin-Tempelhof Airport Hei nric Strah-Hein sse e- POTSDAMER S Leipziger Platz PLATZ e Leipziger Strass se Or an ien str ass e wehrka nal Urb a nst ras se Hase nheid e Brü stra cken sse - Gr eif sw al d er e ass str ide He rg U er h al e r St rasse Invalidenst e rass See Berlin-Mitte maps d e rs xan Ale tr. Spre e strasse nan m se re St se as str T wBülo sse stra S-Bahn stop S .platz FRIEDRICHht c e STRASSE kn b S Lie rl Ka Mo lls t r.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 117 WEDDING Schönhauser Allee nn Fe se as str s au Ch e ss tra es se NORDBAHNHOF S 0 0 0.5 mi N 0.Pie elm h il W O ra n ien S Strass e HAUPTBAHNHOF– LEHRTER BAHNHOF Sp ree Pariser Platz S bur HACKESCHER ger Str MARKT Alexander.5 km PRENZLAUER BERG Prin zen stra sse Str as se t Rosen en alid Inv S sse stra ck.

with its lovely gardens and nearby museums: the Ägyptisches (Egyptian) Museum. Charlottenburg The district known as Charlottenburg is the wealthiest and most commercialized in western Berlin.118 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany itself is part of the Tiergarten. and department stores. and Greece. nightclubs. and cafes fill the neighborhood around Savignyplatz. Kreuzberg traditionally has been the poorest and most crowded of western Berlin’s districts. close to . which runs through it. Up until reunification. Dahlem was the site of western Berlin’s major museums. shops. restaurants. Schöneberg developed in the 19th century as an independent suburb for workers. about 35 percent of its population is composed of Gastarbeiter (guest workers) from Turkey. Charlottenburg’s regal centerpiece is Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace). Upscale shops. Although gentrification is taking place. The area is more residential than hotel-oriented. Dahlem Now the university district. and the Berggruen Sammlung (Collection). Starting in the 1960s and 1970s. however. Today. theaters. Charlottenburg. Kreuzberg Filled with 19th-century tenement buildings (called Hinterhof. Along the famous Ku-Damm. Kreuzberg is where you find the new Jüdisches (Jewish) Museum and the small museum called Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie. restaurants. Schöneberg Like Kreuzberg. cafes. dedicated to the history of divided Berlin. near Potsdamer Platz. but you may want to come here to visit the Brücke Museum. most of them have now moved farther into the city. The borough is centrally located. a shopping center and entertainment complex. This neighborhood no longer is a convenient place to stay. because they have an interior courtyard) constructed for the workers of a rapidly industrializing Prussia. the former Yugoslavia. The 22-story Europa Center. Dahlem originally was established as an independent village to the southwest of Berlin’s center. the district became home to the city’s artistic countercultural scene. one of Berlin’s three opera houses. you find the best concentration of hotels. a tree-lined square a short walk north of Kurfürstendamm. the Bröham Museum. a beautiful park stretching east and ending at the cultural center known as the Kulturforum. which has plenty of hotels and pensions (B&Bs). After WWII. the neighborhood remains funky around the edges. the area was rebuilt as a middle-class neighborhood. makes a convenient base for visitors. rises just across the plaza from the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis Kirche (Memorial Church) near the Ku-Damm and Zoo Station. many of whom have now lived here for 30 years or more. Charlottenburg also is the home of the Deutsche Oper Berlin (German Opera House). with lots of bars and clubs.

just off Unter den Linden. contains the Berlin Zoo in its southwest corner. Both areas formerly stood behind the Berlin Wall and now are full of new buildings and ongoing construction. contains a series of residential buildings designed in the late 1950s by different architects.” and it refers both to western Berlin’s massive urban park and a business-residential district of the same name. Walter Gropius. also called Stadtmitte (City Center) or just plain Mitte (Center). Tiergarten The name Tiergarten means “Animal Garden. this area was. the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). which starts at the Brandenburg Gate and extends east. now called Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt and used for . the center of Berlin.) The beautiful neoclassical square called Gendarmenmarkt. is lined with 18th. I recommend giving this fascinating area at least a full day of your time. The Tiergarten neighborhood also contains the Kulturforum. in fact. the famed Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). and other museums. The oldest and most historic part of Berlin. home of the Philharmonic (Philharmonic Hall). The grand boulevard called Unter den Linden. is where you find the magnificently restored early-19th-century Schauspielhaus (theater). occupying the northwest section of Tiergarten. Wilmersdorf The huge park called the Grünewald (groo-nuh-vald) takes up the western portion of this borough. (The Komische Oper. Closer in. Tiergarten is one of the best areas in Berlin for hotels and restaurants. Berlin’s densest concentration of gay bars and clubs is in Schöneberg between Nollendorfplatz and Victoria-Luise-Platz. Wilmersdorf is a quiet residential neighborhood filled with an excellent assortment of hotels and pensions and plenty of low-key restaurants and cafes.-km (15-sq. with good U-Bahn connections and many hotels and pensions.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 119 the Ku-Damm. Berlin’s third opera house. Wilmersdorf is a very pleasant borough in which to stay.and 19th-century palaces and monuments. Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) Berlin-Mitte. toward the Ku-Damm. originally intended as a backdrop to the grand avenues laid out by the German kaisers. Berlin-Mitte symbolically begins at Potsdamer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden is the main opera house in eastern Berlin. Tiergarten also is where you find the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag (Parliament) building. This 38-sq. is the new name of the central section of former East Berlin. The Tiergarten park. and Alvar Aalto. also is in Berlin-Mitte. Wannsee is the most popular lake for swimming and boating. Berlin-Mitte has numerous attractions. on the east side of Tiergarten park. Before the war and the division of the city.-mile) lake-filled forest begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm and is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. All in all. including Le Corbusier. The Hansaviertel (Hans Quarter).

and Strassenbahn Berlin’s excellent public-transportation system makes getting around fast. buses. site of four major museums. is regaining its prewar reputation as Berlin’s preeminent shopping street. The system consists of the U-Bahn (underground train). Luxury boutiques and department stores crowd the street. Getting Around Berlin Berlin is a huge city. Period taverns and riverside restaurants make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque stroll.). ferries on the lakes. short-term travelers will find little of interest. and even dedicated walkers won’t be able to cover it entirely on foot. and not to everyone’s liking: Eight skyscrapers will eventually surround Alexanderplatz and reduce the prominence of the Soviet-era Fernsehturm (TV tower). Gay and lesbian visitors may want to explore Prenzlauer Berg’s burgeoning gay cafe and club scene. (1.bvg. is now the hippest neighborhood in eastern Berlin and a favored spot for young Berliners to live. At the eastern end of Unter den Linden. and relatively inexpensive. just south of Alexanderplatz along the Spree River. northeast of Mitte. bus. For a map of Berlin’s U-Bahn and S-Bahn. The following sections describe the various options you have for getting from place to place. Berlin has a comprehensive public transportation system. the transportation hub of Berlin-Mitte. You can also buy . This well-integrated public-transport system is run by BVG. a square named for Russian Czar Alexander Berlin’s Transport Authority (% 030/19449 24hour information line. safe. is a charming area restored to look as it did (with some contemporary touches) in Berlin’s medieval and baroque eras. at 368 m. and a few Strassenbahnen (streetcars) that still operate in eastern Berlin only. Friedrichstrasse. It’s now being completely redone. the S-Bahn (surface or elevated train). Going public: U-Bahn. one of the highest structures in Europe. see the inside back cover of this book.207 ft. S-Bahn.120 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany concerts. Transportation basics You can buy your ticket at any U-Bahn station (at windows or machines that have English translations) or from a bus driver. Alexanderplatz. Except to check out the ongoing gentrification. U-Bahn and S-Bahn lines converge at Friedrichstrasse train station. was the center of activity in the Soviet era. Prenzlauer Berg. which intersects Unter den Linden. you find the marvelous Museumsinsel (Museum Island). convenient. Luckily. www. The Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter).

before your first trip. A regular Normaltarif or Einzelfahrscheine (one-way fare).80€ ($7. One ticket enables you to change from U-Bahn to S-Bahn and to the bus during a two-hour period. good for two hours in zones A and B is 2. S-Bahn (elevated train) The venerable elevated train system in Berlin is called the S-Bahn. which are announced. you’re guilty of Schwarzfahren (black travel) and fined 75€ ($94) on the spot. you find a map of the stops. The card is good for all public transportation in central Berlin (zones A.50).50). the following day and costs 5.m.10€ ($2. all the way to Potsdam. ߜ The 7-Tage-Karte (7-day ticket) costs 25€ ($32) for zones A and B. they intersect at Bahnhof Zoo.25) for zones A and B.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 121 tickets and passes (and receive a free transportation map) at the BVGPavillion on Hardenbergplatz. B. directly outside Zoo Station. For short hops (3 consecutive U. A large U in a blue box identifies each station. Ticket inspectors may suddenly appear to check everyone’s ticket. If yours hasn’t been validated. U-Bahn (underground train) The subway in Berlin is called the U-Bahn. which costs 16€ ($18) for 48 hours or 22€ ($24) for 72 hours. but after midnight only two lines — U9 and U2 — run on a limited schedule. each car contains a map of . When purchasing tickets for public transportation. All your sightseeing within the Berlin city limits will be in zones A and B. Long-term tickets are validated only once.20€ ($1. to 10 p.m.or S-Bahn stops or 6 stops on a bus or streetcar). including the following: ߜ A Tageskarte (day ticket) is good on all forms of transportation from validation until 3 a. Service is fast and efficient. and C) and provides price reductions of up to 50 percent at many tourist attractions in Berlin. consider the Berlin Welcome Card. B. the office is open daily from 6 a. Zone C extends far beyond the city’s borders. you also have several money-saving options. The fare is based on three zones (A. The entire transportation system runs on an honor system — you won’t find turnstiles or ticket collectors. ߜ If you’re in Berlin for two days. You must validate your ticket by sticking it into one of the validation boxes on all U-Bahn and S-Bahn platforms or inside buses and streetcars. In each car.m. you can get a Kurzstrecke (short-stretch) ticket for 1. and the routes are clearly marked in all stations and in the trains. Nine lines crisscross the city in all directions and extend to the far reaches of Brandenburg. Thirteen lines cover most of central Berlin. and C).

122 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
the stops, which are announced. A large S in a green circle identifies each station. S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations sometimes overlap, so you can change from one to the other. Service is basically nonexistent after midnight. The S-Bahn is particularly handy if you’re going from Bahnhof Zoo east to the Friedrichstrasse/Unter den Linden area or southwest to Grünewald and the lakes.

Riding atop one of Berlin’s double-decker buses (single-deckers also operate) is a fun way to see the city. A green H (for Haltstelle, or stop) in a yellow circle identifies each stop. Regular service begins about 5 a.m. and ends about midnight. Night buses (designated with an N) leave every half-hour, going west and east, from Bahnhof Zoo and Bahnhof Hackescher Markt (near Alexanderplatz in eastern Berlin). One of the best and cheapest sightseeing routes is on Bus 100, which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and travels through the Tiergarten, passing Bellevue Palace (the Berlin residence of the German president), the Reichstag, and the Victory Column all the way to the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Museum Island, and Alexanderplatz.

Strassenbahn (streetcar)
Streetcars, called Strassenbahnen, run in eastern Berlin only. Because you can get practically everywhere on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you probably won’t be using the streetcar. Ticket prices are the same as for the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and buses.

Taking a taxi
Thousands of ivory-colored taxis cruise Berlin’s main streets. Hailing one during the day is easier than at night. The fare starts at 2.50€ ($3.10) and costs 1.55€ ($1.90) per kilometer (1⁄2 mile). For short distances, flag down a taxi and ask for the Winktarif: a special rate (3€/ $3.75) for a short lift. To order a taxi, call % 210-101. Tip taxi drivers by rounding up to the nearest euro.

Driving a car
I don’t recommend renting ein Auto in Berlin. Local drivers tend to be aggressive, and the street system itself can be fiendishly difficult to navigate. The public-transport system gets you everywhere you want at a fraction of the cost. If you’re out very late, you can grab a cab to get back to your hotel. The only time a car may come in useful is when you want to explore the surrounding countryside. The offices for Hertz (Budapester Strasse 37; % 030/262-1053) and Avis (Budapester Strasse 43; % 030/230-9370) are close to Bahnhof Zoo.

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


If you drive in town, be aware that the right lanes in inner-city areas are often reserved for buses, taxis, and bicycles only. When turning right, you must give way to any vehicle (including bikes) in that lane. Some right-hand lanes are reserved for buses at stated times and otherwise can be used by cars. Also remember that in Germany, using a mobile phone while driving is against the law. In Berlin and throughout Germany, cars can park only on the right side of the road. In most inner-city areas, you must obtain a parking ticket at one of the street-side ticket machines to display on your dashboard. The police quickly tow cars that violate these laws. If that happens, you can go to any police station to find out where your car is. The whole process costs more than 150€ ($187) — and a great deal of time. Parking garages are more expensive than street parking, but they save you the potential hassle of getting towed.

Staying in Style
Finding a hotel room in Berlin is easy, unless a big trade fair or soccer match is happening in town. Prices generally are lower than in other major European cities. (You can find a good hotel in Berlin for less than 150€/$187 a night.) I do, however, strongly recommend that you reserve your room before you arrive. If you arrive in Berlin without a hotel room, you can go to one of the BERLIN infostores (for locations and opening hours see “Finding Information After You Arrive,” earlier in this chapter). For 3€ ($3.75), the infostore staff will find you a room. You can also book hotels by calling % 030/25-00-25. For locations of the hotels in this chapter, see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining.”

The top hotels
For details on two of the city’s best hotels, Hotel Adlon Kempinski ($$$$) and Kempinski Hotel Bristol ($$$$), see Chapter 22.

Arco Hotel
$ Schöneberg
This small, gay-friendly hotel is housed in a four-story turn-of-the-century building on a quiet street near the Ku-Damm. Most of the 21 fairly large rooms have high windows and modern furniture. Private bathrooms, all with showers, are on the small side. One of the nicest features is the airy breakfast room, which looks out on a courtyard garden (you can eat outside in warm weather). The English-speaking staff is friendly and helpful. One potential drawback: no elevator.

124 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining
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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


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126 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
See map p. 124. Geisbergstrasse 30, 10777 Berlin. % 030/218-8065. Fax: 030/21475178. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Ansbacher Strasse and west on Geisbergstrasse). Rates: 65€–97€ ($81–$121) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

$ Charlottenburg
Located on the top floors of a large apartment building, Artemisia is an excellent hotel for women only. The rooms are large, light, and free of froufrou but still have a warm ambience heightened by splashes of color. Ten of the 12 rooms have toilets and small showers. You can save money by renting one of the two rooms that share a toilet and shower. A private roof terrace with wonderful views over Berlin becomes a gathering spot on warm afternoons and evenings. See map p. 124. Brandenburgischestrasse 18, 10707 Berlin. % 030/873-8905. Fax: 030/861-8653. U-Bahn: Blissestrasse (then a 3minute walk northwest on Brandenburgischestrasse). Rates: 89€–115€ ($111–$144) double with bathroom; 79€–89€ ($99–$111) double without bathroom. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Art-Hotel Charlottenburger Hof
$ –$$ Charlottenburg
Located across from the Charlottenburg S-Bahn station, this budget hotel is one of the best and brightest in Berlin. This inexpensive property is unusually well decorated for its price range and offers several amenities, such as in-room safes, hair dryers, and laundry facilities. Primary colors of blue, yellow, and red (plus white) brighten some of the 45 contemporary-style rooms, a few of which have balconies. Rooms and bathrooms, which have showers, are fairly small. All guest rooms are equipped with computers that provide free Internet access. The breakfast buffet costs an additional 8€ ($ 10). See map p. 124. Stuttgarter Platz 14, 10627 Berlin. % 030/329-070. Fax: 030/332-3723. S-Bahn: Charlottenburg (the hotel is north of the station). Rates: 65€–125€ ($81–$156) double. AE, MC, V.

Baxpax Downtown Hostel Hotel
$ –$$ Mitte
If you’re looking for a really inexpensive place to stay in Berlin, check out this clean, friendly hostel/hotel in Mitte. You can stay in an eight-bed dorm room, a more private double room with a shower and toilet, or a small studio with a bathroom. Nothing fancy or frilly here: The rooms have been simply but nicely designed and there’s a cafe and a roof terrace for relaxing and meeting fellow backpackers and explorers. Baxpax has two other hostels in eastern Berlin in addition to this one: Baxpax Kreuzberg Hostel Berlin, Skalitzer Strasse 104 (% 030/6951-8322; S-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor),



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Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin




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128 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
and Mitte’s Backpacker Hostel Berlin, Chauseestrasse 102 (% 030/28390935; U-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor). See map p. 127. Ziegelstrasse 28, 10117 Berlin. % 030/2787-4880. S-Bahn: Oranienburgerstrasse (then a 5-minute walk south on Tucholsky Strasse and west on Ziegelstrasse). Rates: 15€–18€ ($19–$22) dorm bed without bathroom; 59€ ($74) double room with shower and toilet; 75–119€ ($94–$149) studio/apartment with bathroom. MC, V.

Bleibtreu Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
If you’re looking for chic, central, contemporary digs near the Ku-Damm, this 60-room boutique hotel is the place for you. The rooms aren’t particularly large but are artfully designed and furnished. The furniture coverings are hypoallergenic, and no chemicals of any kind are used for cleaning. The small, stylish bathrooms have sinks of carved stone. Other features include remote-control-operated lights, wireless phones, fax machines in every suite, and electric awnings over street-facing windows. The hotel has a Wellness Center where you can take a pore-cleansing sauna. Restaurant 31, near the small lobby, lays out a healthy breakfast buffet (an extra 15€/$ 19); the bar is lively at night. See map p. 124. Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Berlin. % 030/884-740. Fax: 030/8847-4444. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). Rates: 132€–232€ ($165–$240) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Grand Hyatt Berlin
$$$$ Tiergarten
The Grand Hyatt Berlin, right smack-dab in the center of all the action in the new Potsdamer Platz area, is one of the coolest places to stay, and one of the more expensive. This big hotel, built in 1998 with 342 rooms, is sleek and glamorous throughout. Rooms are large and have beautiful wood finishes and wonderful bathrooms set up with Japanese-style soaking tubs. Restaurants include Vox, for Eurasian cuisine and sushi; Tizian, for international classics; and Bistro Dietrich, for casual cafe-style food. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. 124. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, 10785 Berlin. % 030/2553-1234. Fax: 030/2553-1235. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west to Marlene-Dietrich-Platz). Rates: 240€–430€ ($300–$537) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Alsterhof Berlin
$ –$$$$ Wilmersdorf
Location — just a few minutes walk from Bahnhof Zoo and the Ku-Damm — is this hotel’s greatest asset. If you’re in Berlin on business and need a reasonably priced full-service hotel in a central location, this place fills the bill. The 195 rooms are comfortable and quiet, and have plenty of extra

Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin


amenities (trouser press, safe, minibar, hair dryer), although they aren’t particularly stylish. You find a pool and sauna on the sixth floor. The breakfast buffet costs 16€ ($20). See map p. 124. Augsburger Strasse 5, 10789 Berlin. % 030/212-420. Fax: 030/2183949. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east across Joachimstaler Platz and east on Augsburger Strasse). Rates: 85€–200 ($108–$250) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Brandenburger Hof
$$$$ Charlottenburg
The beautifully appointed, 86-room Hotel Brandenburger Hof offers superior service, an on-site spa, and one of the top restaurants in Berlin. Centrally located in western Berlin, this Relais & Châteaux hotel is close to the Ku-Damm and the Tiergarten. The guest rooms are unusually large for Berlin and furnished in an elegant Bauhaus style that is rarely encountered in other hotels. Bathrooms have wood and granite finishes. You can enjoy the sumptuous breakfast buffet, included in the price of the room, in a glass-walled conservatory built around a Japanese garden. The hotel’s gourmet restaurant, Die Quadriga (named for the four-horse chariot atop the Brandenburg Gate), earned a Michelin star (see “Dining Out,” later in this chapter). See map p. 124. Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Berlin. % 030/214-050. Fax: 030/21405100. U-Bahn: Kurfurstendamm (then a 5-minute walk east on Augsburger Strasse and south on Rankestrasse to Eislebener Strasse). Rates: 245€–295€ ($306–$369) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hotel Domus
$$ –$$$ Wilmersdorf
Set in an unusually pretty section of Wilmersdorf, down the street from St. Ludwig’s Church and within walking distance of the Ku-Damm, this modern 73-room hotel has a calm, appealing simplicity. The spacious rooms are quiet (thanks to soundproof windows) and tastefully decorated with highquality contemporary furniture (lots of light-colored wood). Rooms face the inner courtyard or the street. The bathrooms are unusually large and have either a shower or a tub. Breakfast is served in a lovely dining room. Free high-speed Internet service is a nice bonus. See map on p. 124. Uhlandstrasse 49, 10719 Berlin. % 030/880-3440. Fax: 030/88034444. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west on Hohenzollerndamm and north on Uhlandstrasse). Rates: 115€–150€ ($144–$187) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Pension Niebuhr
$ Charlottenburg
This pleasant, gay-friendly pension in Charlottenburg is one of the best deals in Berlin. The 12 rooms, all on the second floor of a turn-of-the-century apartment building (no elevator), have a fresh, modest flair. The furnishings and

130 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
color schemes are bright and cheerful. Three street-facing rooms have balconies; the rooms facing the courtyard (Hinterhof) can be a bit dark, but they’re very quiet. One bonus: Breakfast (5€/$ 6.25) is brought up to your room. See map p. 124. Niebuhrstrasse 74, 10629 Berlin. % 030/324-9595. Fax: 030/881-4707. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Niebuhrstrasse). Rates: 53€ ($66) double without bathroom; 72€ ($90) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

Pension Nürnberger Eck
$ Charlottenburg
If you’re seeking an atmospheric old-fashioned pension, try this one on the second floor of a building near the Europa Center, a shopping and entertainment complex. High-ceilinged rooms with heavy doors open off a long, dark hallway. Although the eight rooms are stylistically something of a mishmash, with patterned wallpaper, Oriental rugs, and big pieces of furniture, the pension does convey an Old Berlin charm. The bathrooms are a decent size, and the breakfast room is pleasant. See map p. 124. Nürnberger Strasse 24a, 10789 Berlin. % 030/235-1780. Fax: 030/2351-7899. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Tauentzienstrasse and south on Nürnberger Strasse). Rates: 70€–92€ ($87–$115) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Savoy Hotel
$$ –$$$$ Charlottenburg
The quietly charming Savoy, which opened in 1930, has played host to more than a few celebrities through the years. You can’t beat the location, just a skip from the Ku-Damm, or the unobtrusively efficient service. The 125 rooms provide spacious and comfortable accommodations, with large bathrooms, but don’t look for any modern design touches here; the hotel is completely up-to-date with wireless and cable networks, but the décor remains resolutely old-fashioned. There’s a good restaurant, Weinrot, serving international and regional dishes, and if your room rate includes the breakfast buffet, you’re in for a treat. Nonsmokers may find the lingering cigar fumes from the Times Bar, just off the lobby, bothersome. See map p. 124. Fasanenstrasse 9–10, 10623 Berlin. % 800-223-5652 in the U.S. or 030/311-030. Fax: 030/3110-3666. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse and north on Fasanenstrasse). Rates: 152€–295€ ($190–$369) double. AE, DC, MC, V.

Runner-up hotels
Ambassador Berlin
$$ Schöneberg A comfortable, old-fashioned “retro” look characterizes this hotel located near the huge Kaufhaus des Westens department store. See map p. 124.

Fax: 030/ www. Friedrichstrasse 158–164.S. and Canada. See map p. 10117 Berlin. www. some vivid colors. Hotel Wilmersdorf $ Wilmersdorf This no-fuss pension is large..S. Fax: 030/2005-5555. Potsdamer Platz % 800-445-8667 in the U. www. Ku’Damm 101 $$ Wilmersdorf A minimalist aesthetic. Fax: 030/2190-2380. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz. here are a few more $$$$ suggestions: ߜ Berlin Hilton. sorat-hotels. 10629 Berlin. www.hilton. or 030/33-77-77. % 030/254-780. % 800-241-3333 in the U. The big splurge If you’re looking for top-of-the-line luxury. and Canada. 124. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. See map p. Lützowufer 15. www. Leibnizstrasse 59. 124. 10711 Berlin. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz. Schaperstrasse 36. Hotel Art Nouveau $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg This small.S. 127.esplanade. Fax: 030/777-5555. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Fax: 030/ 10787 Berlin. or 030/20270.ritz-carlton. See map p. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. % 030/ and a bit of “I’m so cool” attitude characterize this interesting new hotel. Grolmanstrasse 35.westin-grand. 124. 10719 Berlin. % 030/327-7440. 124. and offers a buffet breakfast overlooking the rooftops of Berlin. www. See map p. 10623 Berlin. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz. ߜ Westin Grand Hotel. Hecker’s Hotel $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg The streamlined rooms in this small.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 131 Bayreutherstrasse 42–43. but the place is conveniently located and impeccably maintained. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten. 10785 Berlin. or 030/20230. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte. www. atmospheric hotel is on the fourth floor of an Art Nouveau apartment house. Mohrenstrasse 30. See map p. % 030/219-020. 124. See map p. % 030/2177-07476. % 030/520-0550. . 127. 10785 Berlin. trendy hotel may look a bit sterile to some. ߜ Fax: 030/327-7440. 124. See map p. clean and comfortable. Fax: 030/2023-4269. Fax: 030/889-0260. 10117 Berlin. Fax: 030/ ߜ Grand Hotel Esplanade.heckershotel. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse. See map p. % 800-937-8461 in the U. Kurfürstendamm 101. www.

% 030/857-9120. and wild boar appears seasonally.30€. but the local culinary tradition is fairly basic and very filling. meatballs (Buletten) with boiled potatoes. Game like venison.132 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Pension München $ Wilmersdorf You find simple. Restaurant and cafe bills include the service charge and value-added tax (MWST). see the maps “Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining” and “Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining” earlier in this chapter. original artwork. fried potatoes. 124. but rounding out the total bill with an extra amount as a gratuity is standard practice. See map p. and lighter dishes) at one of Berlin’s plentiful cafes. For a few recommended brewpubs. I list some good cafe choices at the end of this chapter. Dining Out Berlin offers every kind of international cuisine. And speaking of cafes: Don’t forget that in Germany. modern décor. A plate with various cold meats is called a Schlachteplatte (schlock-tuh-plaht-tuh). which uses the old standbys as a starting point but dolls them up with unusual ingredients and international touches. Fancier restaurants often serve what’s called neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). and plenty of other nice touches in this third-floor pension. carp and trout often are available. for example. see Chapter 12. and bacon. and pea soup (Erbsensuppe). www. If the bill is 6. afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is a time-honored tradition. Fax: 030/8579-1222. places to enjoy a casual meal with a freshly drawn beer. Güntzelstrasse 62. For locations of the restaurants in this chapter. pickled or roast pork (Schweinefleisch) or pork knuckles (Eisbein) with red cabbage and dumplings. round the total up to 7€ and add another euro or two if the service was good. duck. U-Bahn: Günzelstrasse. Typical Berlin dishes include grilled or pickled herring with onions. Scattered all around town are vendors selling Berlin’s classic fast-food snacks: Currywurst (sausage with a glob of “curry” sauce) or fried bratwurst. You can always get an inexpensive meal (soup. Grabbing a wurst or eating at the stand-up counters of the fast-food snack shops (look for signs that read IMBISS or SCHNELL-IMBISS) is a good way to save time and . sandwiches. 10717 Berlin.hotel-pension-muenchenin-berlin.

Fasanenstrasse 81A.. Regensburgerstrasse 7. duck with cassis sauce. 124. Main courses: 9€–19€ ($11–$23). U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Hardenberg Strasse and south on Fasanenstrasse). The menu changes daily according to what’s freshest in the market. Sat–Sun 10 a. 124. is wonderful. Dinner choices include homemade pasta. marinated boiled beef with chive cream. lamb. For many years. 124. Otto-Suhr-Allee 144. and cafe rolled into one. Bamburger Reiter is small and rustic. and plenty of antiques. but the place now serves more Austrian. % 030/313-2625.m. % 030/218-4282. For dessert. eggs.m.m. bar. Come to this gay-friendly place for an English breakfast (bacon. flowers.and French-inspired dishes. U-Bahn: Spichernstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Regensburgerstrasse).) Bamberger Reiter $$$$ Schöneberg AUSTRIAN Housed in a century-old wine tavern at the corner of Regensburger Strasse and Bamburger Strasse. (winter Sat–Sun 12:30 p. Reservations required. this was a temple of neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cuisine). Main courses: 22€–39€ ($27–$49). . MC. try the pumpernickel mousse. try a bowl of potato soup with sausage or one of the many salads. chicken.m. fish.m. Chez Martial $$ Charlottenburg FRENCH Top-quality products and good cooking have helped establish Chez Martial as one of Berlin’s most popular French restaurants. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. Reservations recommended. AE. DC. V.m. and a vegetarian Maultaschen (stuffed pasta).–2 a. % 030/341-1033. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). No credit cards. MC.m. and beans).Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 133 The top restaurants Art $ –$$ Charlottenburg GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A restaurant. V. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Richard-Wagner-Strasse and west on Otto-SuhrAllee). Open: Tues–Sat 5:30–11:30 p.–2 a. The staff is friendly. For lunch. and couscous. including fresh fish. roast quail. See map p.–2 a. Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlets). with parquet floors. poultry. The menu changes daily and offers several main courses.m. The fish soup. Art is tucked beneath the S-Bahn track at Fasanenstrasse. so be ready to wait (while savoring a bottle of good French wine). Reservations recommended for dinner. See map p. The restaurant has a outdoor arbor for summertime dining. See map p. or smoked-fish pie. and may include cream of mushroom soup. cooked in a broth of fish and shellfish that’s whipped into a foam. Every dish is freshly prepared. beef. and outdoor seating is available in good weather. Open: Tues–Sun 6–11:30 p.

The wonderful wine list includes several wines available by the half-bottle or by the carafe. See map p. try homemade aspic. and a tasty potato soup with shrimp and bacon. Spreeufer 2. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 5minute walk southwest on Mühlendamm to Spreeufer. See map p.50€–9. which sits right next to the Spree River. Other starters include Beetenbartsch. Reservations required.m. a richly ornamented 1765 mansion. which celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2005. because that’s what this place does best. smoked ham in cream sauce. the pedestrian street along the river). and basil. DC. Main courses are something of an adventure: stewed pickled beef with green dumplings and stewed cabbage. See map p. AE. just south of Alexanderplatz. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). In Hotel Brandenburger Hof.134 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Die Quadriga $$$$ Wilmersdorf FRENCH Die Quadriga. Open: Mon–Sat 5 p. Eislebener Strasse 14. to midnight.m. V. Reservations recommended. Closed July 17–Aug 20. Dishes are classically French and seasonally fresh. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). MC. AE. Mommsenstrasse 9. AE. MC. or roast of elk with chanterelle mushrooms. Reservations recommended. La Riva $$ Mitte ITALIAN/SEAFOOD One of the prettiest buildings in the restored Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). the one-star Michelin restaurant (in Michelin’s guides. fixed-price menu 55€–110€ ($69–$137).50€ ($6–$12). such as broccoli soufflé. V. MC. to midnight. % 030/242-5183. You’ll want a table outside if the weather is fine. % 030/883-2676. but you need to reserve well in advance because the elegant restaurant seats only 28 diners. 1 star means very good) in the beautiful Brandenburger Hof Hotel. while another section contains this Italian-influenced restaurant. Choices include salmon with white-wine sauce. For an appetizer. swordfish with fresh tomatoes. 124. and grilled or baked crayfish. Pasta is made fresh daily. Everything is of the finest quality. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (then a 2-minute walk south on Eislebener Strasse). Main courses: 35€ ($44). Open: Daily 11 a. smoked Pomeranian goose. is the Ephraim-Palais. Open: Mon–Fri 7–11 p. You also find vegetarian dishes. onions. pizzas 4. or fried chicken legs.m. offers a truly memorable dining experience. 127. The restaurant also has a well-stocked wine cellar. and the good pizzas are kid-pleasing. . % 030/214-050. a delicious red-beet soup with beef strips and sour cream. DC. Main courses: 13€–19€ ($16–$23). Marjellchen $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg EAST PRUSSIAN Old East Prussian recipes prepared by the owner’s grandmother inspired the dishes that are served at this popular restaurant. And you’ll probably want to order fish. V. pork kidneys in sweet-andsour cream sauce. Part of the building is a museum. 124. grilled trout.

You may find asparagus with hollandaise sauce. The best bet for lunch is one of the fixed-price specials. or you can dine outside in nice weather. ham. Main courses: 7€–13€ ($9–$16). The dining room has long communal tables. Main courses: 10€–25€ ($13–$31). V. with marble. Reservations recommended. across from the giant Berlin cathedral and beneath the Radisson SAS Hotel (of which it’s now a part). with wooden tables and benches. glazed duck breast. No credit cards. Wiener Schnitzel. fried noodles. gilding. Open: Daily noon to 11 p. is nothing fancy. % 030/23828-3464. and suckling pig. and elegant. by its blood-colored awning and red-sandstone facade. plus noodle soups. lunch specials 14€ ($17). spare. In the past couple of years. sashimi. between Savignyplatz and the Memorial Church. Open: Daily noon to 1 a. and satays (skewers with meat or fish). Restaurant Borchardt $$ –$$$ Mitte FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL You can recognize Borchardt. The restaurant’s interior. You can get a good plate of spaghetti or a good . the Paris Bar. Französische Strasse 47. % 030/2038-87110. to midnight. Open: Daily 11:30 a. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 3-minute walk east on Französische Strasse).Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Noodle $ –$$ Mitte JAPANESE/ASIAN 135 Located right beside the Spree River. AE. See map p. Toto $ –$$ Charlottenburg ITALIAN Toto is a good place to sit outside on a warm Berlin afternoon and have a good. Main courses: 16€–28€ ($20–$35). Inside. directly across from the Gendarmenmarkt. AE. Reservations recommended. See map p. Menu offerings typically include baked tuna fish with Asian vegetables. 127. Main courses change often. and new potatoes. Diners mark what they want on the menu (an English menu is available) and hand it to the server. 127. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk west on Kantstrasse). Reservations recommended.m. fresh fish. has been a Berlin institution. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse (then a 3-minute walk west on Mommsenstrasse). Spreepromenade beside Liebknecht Bridge. the restaurant is large. Kantstrasse 152. See map p. % 030/313-8052.m. 124. V. MC. this new Japanese-inspired noodle house offers a good. Paris Bar $$ –$$$ Charlottenburg FRENCH/AUSTRIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Since the end of WWII. and other specialties. saddle of veal with lemon butter. the restaurant has expanded its classic French bistro menu to include more upscale Austrian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. MC. or grilled foie gras. reasonably priced selection of sushi.m. and a bit of French attitude. inexpensive lunch. risotto with porcini mushrooms.

The lasagna is worth trying. to midnight. % 030/312-5449. See map p. The restaurant occupies two floors of a much-restored . Reservations recommended. Main courses: 28€–38€ ($35–$47). U-Bahn: Stadtmitte (then a 5minute walk east across Gendarmenmarkt). Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. has earned a Michelin star for its refined cooking. Note: The restaurant can be a bit smoky. which happens to be Berlin’s oldest restaurant. and west on Fuggerstrasse). and very beautiful. Open: Daily noon to 2 a. dating from 1525. The menu choices are deftly prepared and can be surprisingly unfussy: venison with artichokes and mushrooms. and 7–11:30 p. % 030/211-6642. Open: Daily 6 p. The pizzas are good.m. not remarkable. In this long. Zur Letzten Instanz $ –$$ Mitte BERLINER The former East Berlin now has several trendy new restaurants. See map p. fixed-price dinner 80€–100€ ($100–$125). Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). includes grilled salmon with butter and lemon and grilled crayfish cooked in olive oil. which opened near the Gendarmenmarkt in early 1997. MC. Vau is a very dress-up kind of place for a superfancy lunch or dinner with impeccable service. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Bleibtreustrasse). U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Motzstrasse. V.m. and various fish choices. rather narrow room with an arched ceiling. available every Tuesday and Friday (market days).136 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany salad. MC. AE. Some of the pastas are made on the premises. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25). DC. Vau $$$$ Mitte INTERNATIONAL This sleek and unabashedly upscale gastronomic showcase. Bleibtreustrasse 55. The menu is huge and the cooking is reliable. too. but I still recommend this place. particularly the Pizza della Mamma with bacon and Parma ham. See map p. The casual atmosphere makes Toto a good place to bring kids. north on Luther Strasse. AE. Jägerstrasse 54–55. DC. V. 127. All kinds of meat dishes and some good seafood (calamari and scampi grilled or cooked with radicchio and rosemary in white-wine sauce) round out the menu. classic Wiener Schnitzel. The bean soup is filling. Fresh fish. 124. Fuggerstrasse 27. Reservations required. No credit cards.m. 124. roast duck breast with herbs and carrots. with braids of garlic hanging from the beamed ceiling. The menu includes a nice selection of Italian wines and aperitifs. Trattoria da Muntagnola $ –$$ Wilmersdorf ITALIAN This popular Italian place is casually rustic. everything is very precise.m. % 030/202-9730. very modern. the menu has several items that kids generally like. however.

I recommend the homemade Bulette (meatballs). yogurt. Zur Nolle was a busy working-class beer hall beneath the Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station. % 030/242-5528. Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41 (see map p. . Sun noon to 11 p. V. a cup of coffee and a piece of Kuchen (cake). and vegetarian salads. meatballs. AE. See map p. onions. Zur Nolle $ Mitte GERMAN A hundred years ago. % 030/885-7480. The menu is unpretentious and the portions hearty.m. 127. Sun 11:30 a. Try the jacket potatoes with herring. The cafes likewise are bars. is particularly rich in cafes. as a sign of post-reunification nostalgia for a bit of Old Berlin. spices.Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin 137 baroque building in the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter).75–$13). Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). or mushrooms). Waisenstrasse 14–16.m. foamy Bier von Fass (beer from the tap). MC. V. Vegetarian offerings include vegetable lasagna and roasted broccoli with cheese served on pasta. The menu usually has dishes like tortellini with cheese sauce. The cafe is open daily from 10 a.–6 p. % 030/ 285-8278.m. For old time’s sake. convivial.. These are places to go for breakfast. has a pastry and candy shop at street level. or a light meal or snack. or the roast bratwurst. Meals range from 7€ to 9€ ($8. to 7 p. ߜ Café Aedes. AE. so you also can get a beer or a glass of wine. Main courses include Old Berlin staples like grilled herring. bacon. soups. upstairs. The place closed in 1968 (GDR years) but reopened in 1993. try the chocolate-covered pancakes filled with blueberries. Wash everything down with a cold. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 1 a. and the menu is as traditional and atmospheric as can be. between Savignyplatz and the Ku-Damm. Beneath the arches of Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn station (SBahnbogen 30). and additions (fried egg. See map p.75–$11). 127. 124. MC. U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse (then a 3-minute walk south on Waisenstrasse). U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). is trendy. apple. Kurfürstendamm 218 (see map p. DC. and braised lamb knuckles with green beans and dumplings. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. The best cafes Berlin is a city filled with cafes. ߜ Café/Bistro Leysieffer. too. or onion fillings. DC. vanilla ice cream. The cafe is open daily from 10 a. with choice locations on Unter den Linden near the Brandenburg Gate and on the Ku-Damm at Wittenbergplatz.m. Bleibtreustrasse (U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). % 030/208-2655. you find an old-fashioned cafe with a balcony overlooking the busy Ku-Damm. Meals range from 10€ to 16€ ($13–$20).m.m. which come with a variety of sauces. This place is a good one for having an elegant breakfast or light lunch. U-Bahn: Weinmeisterstrasse). 127. to midnight. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 1-minute walk east along the street below the tracks). For dessert.m. to midnight. Main courses: 7€–10€ ($8. Starbucks is now a presence in Berlin. and very hip.m. and whipped cream.

to 1 a. % 030/ 281-2095.138 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany ߜ Café Silberstein.m. soups.. ߜ Cafe Wintergarten in Literaturhaus Berlin.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. % 030/882-5414. you find sushi. to 4 a. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($9– $22).m. The cafe is housed in a long. The cafe is open daily from 9:30 a. Fasanenstrasse 23 (see map p. The cafe is open Monday to Friday from 10 a. tall. narrow room with original 1920s wall paintings and modern furniture. Oranienburger Strasse 27 (see map p. is one of the best places to see the “new” eastern Berlin in all its up-to-the-nanosecond trendiness. and an all-day breakfast. salads. On the menu. miso soup with noodles.m. U-Bahn: Hohenzollernplatz). salads. The menu includes pastas. occupies two modern-looking rooms in a 19th-century villa 1 block south of the Ku-Damm. S-Bahn: Oranienburger Tor).m. . A meal costs around 7€ ($8. and vegetarian curries. to 5 a. 124.75). 127.m.

For locations. and at some museums children under 16 are admitted free of charge. . and 31.” and “Berlin-Mitte Attractions” maps in this chapter. B Sightseeing in Berlin Where do you begin? Do you want to spend all your time in Berlin’s fabulous museums? Saunter and shop your way down famous avenues like Unter den Linden or the Ku-Damm? See historic buildings like the Reichstag? Check out the “new” Berlin at Potsdamer Platz? You have to make some decisions because the possibilities for sightseeing in Berlin are almost endless.” “Charlottenburg Attractions. kids younger than 6 generally get in for free. this city has more new buildings than any other city in the world. and the Tuesday after Easter. and historic architecture. Plus. The city is particularly rich in museums.Chapter 12 Exploring Berlin In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Berlin’s top attractions ᮣ Choosing a tour that’s right for you ᮣ Finding the hot shopping spots ᮣ Discovering Berlin’s performing arts and nightlife ᮣ Taking a side trip to Potsdam and the palace of Sanssouci erlin overflows with sightseeing options and diversions. 25. famous avenues and riverside promenades. The places described in this section are my roster of the most important Berlin attractions. except where otherwise indicated. Remember: Nearly all Berlin museums are closed Mondays throughout the year. thanks to rebuilding in Potsdamer Platz and portions of eastern Berlin. They’re also closed January 1. although you also find picturesque parks and lakes. see the “TiergartenArea Attractions. Note: The ages for children’s tickets always are 6 to 14. December 24.

ߜ Dahlem: This leafy suburb. which you can visit before or after a guided palace tour. a grand boulevard.140 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Touring by neighborhood You can save a lot of time by clustering your museum and other sightseeing visits geographically. the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (with contemporary art).de).50). the Pergamon Museum (with the giant Pergamon altar and Middle Eastern antiquities). They include the Altes Museum. and the Bröhan Museum (with Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture). you find the BauhausArchiv.” You can purchase the SchauLUST museum pass at any of the BERLIN infostores (for addresses. home to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery). just a few S-Bahn stops from central Berlin. the new Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum). The main museum areas in Berlin are as follows: ߜ Charlottenburg: Across from Charlottenburg Palace are two museums worth visiting: the Museum Berggruen (with Picassos). a baroque square. smb. see Chapter 11). a restored historic neighborhood. close to Potsdamer Platz. the Alte Nationalgalerie (with 19th-century art). Berlin’s great city park. Unter den Linden. the Brandenburg Gate. and the Neue Nationalgalerie (with 20thcentury art). Charlottenburg Palace also has museums. and the newly reopened Bode Museum (German and Italian sculpture and the Museum of Byzantine Art).50) seniors and children. is home to the fascinating Ethnologisches Museum with rich collections of North American Indian art and artifacts and several other museums concerned with world cultures. A day ticket to visit all four museums on Museum Island costs 10€ ($13). you can also visit the new DDR Museum Berlin. including the museums on Museum Island in . The Kulturforum area is within walking distance of Potsdamer Platz. The pass gains you admittance into nearly all the museums described in the next section. and histosric buildings in the palace gardens. All the state museums operated by Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (www. the newest area of Berlin. ߜ Museum Island (Museumsinsel): Museum Island in eastern Berlin has four of the city’s oldest museums. and the Reichstag (House of Parliament). On the eastern edge of the Tiergarten. A day ticket to visit all the Dahlem museums costs 6€ ($7. “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z. which now contains the Ägyptisches Museum (with the famous bust of Nefertiti). the adjoining Kunstgewerbe (with applied and decorative arts).spk-berlin.50€ ($9. where you find the Filmmuseum Berlin. 7. Gendarmenmarkt. Saving money with a museum pass SchauLUST Museen Berlin is a money-saving three-day museum pass that gets you into 70 top Berlin museums and collections for 15€ ($19) adults. is a group of buildings known as the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). and the Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter). ߜ Tiergarten: In or near the Tiergarten. In this same vicinity.

smb. Berlin Wall Mitte The wall that separated Berlin and Germany from 1961 to 1989 is no more. you’ll find enough here to make you linger for at least an hour. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). Berlin-Mitte’s famous collection of Egyptian antiquities was housed in western Berlin until 2005. Bodestrasse 1–3. and Etruscan classical antiquities. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Altes Museum (Egyptian Museum and Collection of Classical Antiquities) Museum Island. expressive head of Queen Tiy and the world-famous head of a priest in green stone. and Cézanne. Am Lustgarten. See map p. is found on the first floor. Open: Daily 10 a.m. which looks like a Corinthian temple and contains a collection of 19th-century painting and sculpture. One of the highlights here is the unique portraits of Caesar and Cleopatra. the free audio tour will help you navigate. including works by van Gogh.m.m. 147. free Thurs 6–10 p. Children 16 and under are always admitted free of charge. 4€ ($5) children. most of the concrete barrier that divided this city into two political entities had been razed. A free audio tour in English is available.) Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) Museum Island. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.m. Mitte The Alte Nationalgalerie. Monet. A superlative collection of Greek.). and at Charlottenburg Palace. By 1990. If you’re interested in Egyptian antiquities. Give yourself at least an hour just for the highlights of this rich collection. Only two portions of the wall (Mauer in German. are open free to the public on Thursdays.C. including sculpture. www. . (Thurs until 10 p.m. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to Museum Island). four hours before closing. but the fragments that remain are grimly essential pieces of Berlin’s tumultuous history. The greatest treasure of the Egyptian Museum is the famous and fabulous bust of Queen Nefertiti. and objects of gold and silver. Other collection highlights include the small. Manet.m.–6 p. Museumsinsel. % 030/ See map p.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 141 Berlin Mitte. (Thurs until 10 p. in the Kulturforum. Roman. sits behind the Altes Museum on Museumsinsel. 4€ ($5) children. pronounced mao-er) are left.–6 p. when it was moved to the second floor of the beautifully restored Altes Museum on Museum Island in eastern Berlin. Mitte Museum Island. % 030/2090-5801. You’ll need at least two hours to cover the basics. Renoir. dating from around 1340 B.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. 147. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. pottery. free Thurs 2–6 p.m.

Monbijoubrücke.m. East Side Gallery: Mühlenstrasse along the Spree River.” This place is the only one in Berlin where you still can see a complete border area. Bode-Museum (Sculpture Collection. See map p. and a documentation center with photographs and a history of the wall. Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer: between Bernauer Strasse and Invalidenstrasse.–6 p. Museum of Byzantine Art) Museumsinsel. bronze) from the Gothic to the neoclassical periods. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. An international group of artists painted murals on this section in 1990. and Italian sculpture (marble. The museum also contains galleries with late-antique and Byzantine works and a major coin collection.m.m. % 030/266-3666.–6 p. A neoclassical triumphal arch completed in 1791. built into one of the guardhouses. 147. the newly modernized BodeMuseum anchoring the north end of Museum Island reopened its doors in October 2006. a fourhorse copper chariot drawn by the goddess Victoria.m. See map p. .m. the gate is crowned by the famous Quadriga. www.). hundreds of thousands of East Germans walked freely through the gate into West Berlin for the first time since 1961. The revolutionary events of 1848 and 1918. The memorial consists of two walls that include fragments of the original wall (much of which was bulldozed away or carried off by souvenir hunters). In the Room of Silence (open daily 11 a. Dutch. 4€ ($5) children. The mirrorlike stainless steel surfaces of the memorial have slits through which visitors can peer. such as those in 1989. The free audio guide will help you navigate your way through the galleries.smb. (Thurs until 10 p. wood. known as the Gedenkstätte und Dokumentationszentrum Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial and Documentation Center) lies between Bernauer Strasse and Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) Mitte If you watched the televised fall of the Communist German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1989. you saw this historic monument. a chapel of reconciliation.m. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt (then a 5-minute walk west along the S-Bahn tracks to the Monbijou bridge which leads to the museum). The other remaining section of the wall. French. When the wall came down. A plaque reads: “In memory of the division of the city from 13 August 1961 to 9 November 1989. visitors still gather to meditate and reflect on Germany’s past. U-/S-Bahn: Warschauer Strasse. Mitte Closed in 1999 for a complete refurbishment. 147.142 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The East Side Gallery is a half-mile-long section on Mühlenstrasse on the banks of the Spree River in the former East Berlin. one of Berlin’s most potent symbols. free Thurs 2–6 p. in every news clip.). U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse. saw the gate used as a symbolic gathering place. Here you’ll find a rich collection of German. give yourself at least a full hour just to graze the highlights.

S tro m st r . nst r. er Pot sda m Sony PotsCenter damer Leipziger 12 14Platz Platz Ebertstr. Kantstr S U POTSDAMER PLATZ MarleneDietrichPlatz a em nn S ZOOLOGISCHER U GARTEN 13 str .str.Grünewald steg Röntgen-10 Gemäldegalerie brücke Hamburger Bahnhof DoveMuseum für brücke ARD. Joachims- ten str. Budap e ster . Nü rn PLATZ Post office str.S S-Bahn str. eh r ka e rd Ha Str. Str h il Sc Uhlandstr.25 km brücke str. Schlüterstr. r 9 10 Leibnizstr. fürs lstr Niebuhr- S Kur . Garten 1 Brandenburger Tor 15 Filmmuseum Berlin 12 Siemens. SAVIGNY- Kantstr. tr. hö S S Sc ANHALTER Kleis tstr.str. -derVon dt -Str. U KURFÜRSTENSTR STR. HansaTo Berlin-Mitte r.str. e See Len né tungsEntlas TECHNISCHE ane Fas Krumme rstr. 0 Gotzkowsky0. 13 Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium 6. 11 Hey R 7 owufer eic h p ietschufer Lütz berger Ufe Schöne r taler Str. tzenburger 4 U AUGSBURGER STR. te steg s Bellevue brücke t o -F U ona Englischer n Brandenburger h o Pariser J HANSA. Strasse des Ba st r. U S U Bauhaus–Archiv Museum hauser Str. Po ts U UHLANDSTR. Marchbrücke L ch str . U U-Bahn i Information amm i Church rstend Kurfü WITTENBERGr PLATZ de i An r a n KaDeWe U U Leibniz. NOLLENDORF- GLEIS- U S Garten Tor 15 eg tr. tr. ENAUERADENAUERATZ PLATZ Lie Str. uer Le S p r e e ss in g- Paulstr . 17 s Strasse de Grosser Be llev TIERGARTEN S Stern s 17. str llerSchi The Story of Berlin 2 PLATZ Tiergarten 8 Goethe. ommsen. str. be St Tiergartenstr.GARTEN bergplatz 6 für Gestaltung 7 Botanischer linburger Str. a llee Hofjägera w nd öferKlingelh str. Do str ve. na l UNIVERSITÄT r. Juni ue 8 Strasse de Gr alle 17. g Stein.Gegenwart 17 CHARDAGNERNERATZ Z Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche 5 Ot toKäthe-Kollwitz-Museum 4 Suh rKunstgewerbemuseum 9 All ee Kurfürstendamm (Ku-Damm) 3 Neue Nationalgalerie 11 DEUTSCHE str. Lützowtzowplatz Lütz ows MENDELSSOHNBARTHOLDY-PARK U r ge Einemst da be 143 BAHNHOF Tiergarten-Area Attractions r be ne tr. Kleiner Tiergarten Alt-Mo abit 0 1/4 mi N Luisenstr. Topographie des Terrors Pestal ozzistr. steg BELLEVUE St Kongresshalle/ brücke Lüne b u r g e r S e e Haus der Kulturen Reichstag p r der Welt HANSAS Platz der 16 MarschallRepublik brücke VIERTEL Schloss WullenweberLutherD u l l e r s A l l ee Al Scheidemannstr. März M rz S ni Ju . S nst 17 lide HAUPTBAHNHOF nva I LEHRTER BAHNHOF LessingWashingtonAltTIERGARTEN brücke Moabit platz Kronprinzenbrücke Moabiter Le Moltkeve Brücke tzo brücke ws Gericketr. OPER Bismarck U Potsdamer Platz 14 U ERNSTReichstag 16 REUTER. Kur r.TURMSTR. fürs . rge a me 1 2 tens tr. platz üle Str. n Str es i ZOOLOGISCHER Harden. PLATZ ew Platz des re Platz p 18. rS Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin r m dam 5 Tau i en nt zi rste U KURFÜRSTENü f en r u DAMM str 3 K . Ca Str. Juni os se T I E R G A R T E N e rS ter na Neuer lle str.

Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m.m. built for the influx of French Huguenots (Protestants) who settled in Berlin after being forced to flee Catholic France in 1685. (Thurs until 10 p. The centerpiece of the square is Friedrich Schinkel’s beautiful neoclassical Schauspielhaus. 143. Tiergarten The Gemäldegalerie houses Berlin’s greatest collection of European painting.m. 147. open Tues–Sun noon to 5 p. 4€ ($5) children. or Concert House. The square was named for the Gens d’Armes regiment. Several Italian masterpieces are on display. completed in 1821. % 030/802-8146.” later in this chapter). free Thurs 6–10 p. including Raphael’s Virgin and Child with the Infant St. Surrounding the square is a bevy of chic new restaurants.–6 p.m. it’s hard to imagine that by the end of World War II (WWII).m. Pariser Platz. See map p. or theater (now also called the Konzerthaus. Facing this church like a mirror image on the south side is the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral. On the north side of the square is the Französicher Dom (French Cathedral. Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) Kulturforum. Looking at the square today. This is a huge collection and to see it in any depth you should give yourself at least two hours. Gendarmenmarkt Mitte Twin churches inspired by Rome’s Piazza del Popolo flank this monumentally graceful baroque square — one of the most beautiful architectural ensembles in Berlin. Matthäiskirchplatz. open Tues–Sun 10 a. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse and Margaretenstrasse).). see “Raising the curtain on performing arts and music. for concert information.m. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.144 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p..m. Admission: Free. half-hour organ concerts Tues and Fri at 12:30 p. which had its guardhouse and stables here from 1738 to 1782. when East Berlin finally began its reconstruction.m. .). % 030/2090-5555.). The gallery contains one of the world’s largest collections of Rembrandts. See map p.–6 p. John and Bronzino’s Portrait of Ugolino Martelli. 143. with an emphasis on medieval German and Dutch art and 16th-century Italian and 17th-century Dutch painting. the Gendarmenmarkt had been reduced to a pile of smoldering rubble and remained in ruins until 1977. % 030/22730431. U-Bahn: Französische Strasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Taubenstrasse). U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you see the gate to the west).

All ee me ye rNithack- str . r Str he- Osna Mind brück er Str MIERENDORFFPLATZ U . Wulfsheinstr. str. Mausoleum Taur ogge ner S en tr. RICHARDGierkeWAGNERstr. U S-Bahn U-Bahn N CHARLOTTENBURG LiseM e itner. rsdorfe W i n dscheids t r. Rieh l s tr .25 km 1/4 mi Kantstr. platz PLATZ U aim. Schustehrus- Seeling- str. He Knobelsdorff str. 100 isse ll . str dt LIETZENSEEPARK e n s e ze et en Sua rezs tr. Gardes-du-Co Luisen. Nehringstr. s tr Horstweg un Horstweg SophieCharlottePlatz U SOPHIECHARLOTTEPLATZ Kaiserdamm W Bismarckstr. Schlossbrücke Charlottenburg M SCHLOSSGARTEN ier Caprivier U brücke f er Wintersteinstr. o lf. els str. St s rp S u f ertstr.Eosanders tr. h.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 145 Charlottenburg Attractions s t r. Neue Christstr. Wilmers- Sophie-C harlotte n-Str. Spielhagens tr. e Sp re Schloss- Weg Sömmeringstr. Kaise r- str. str. r Str. Ste san ifendst r. Beh SchustehrusPark Haubachstr. Str. U KAISERDAMM Schiller- str. Su hrStallstr. Zille. F r i e dr i c h - Richard- Gierke- Danckelman n- dorfer r. .B e re Sp rüc ke Olbers- .Str. Mierendorffplatz Sop Keple rstr. platz Ot toBrauhofstr. h i e -C harl o Kam ntte Hersc Belvedere mine . helst r. 0 0 0. Kaiser. Str R ud str.Str. do rff str . BISMARCKSTRASSE dt - U str . Post office S U Neue Kantstr.St Fritschestr . W W un Li MESSE NORD/ S ICC . WILMERSDORFER STR. itz Goethepark leb Pestalozzi- str. bb Thrasoltzeile Str.Friedric en leb itz atz W pl Wilme Fritschestr. 100 Christ- str. Wagner. str.str. Loh- tr. Karpfenteich ener Str.W Bra Te g e l e r Bröhan Museum 3 Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit 2 Schloss Charlottenburg 1 CHARLOTTENBURG Schinkel Pavilion 1 mm Spandauer Da 2 Klausener3 platz WESTEND Ne r.

S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk northeast on Invalidenstrasse). Robert Rauschenberg. You also find a major collection of works by Cy Twombly. The small modern church beside the Gedächtniskirche is an octagonal hall designed by Egon Eierman in 1961. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. Closed on Jewish holy days.m. the church later was blasted by a bomb in WWII.m. Open: Daily 10 a.m. Invalidenstrasse 50–51. the Gedächtniskirche (Memorial Church) is a ponderous neo-Romanesque structure from the late 19th century. the building is shaped like a stretched-out Star of David and houses Europe’s largest Jewish museum. 147. Designed by American architect Daniel Libeskind. Built to commemorate the 1871 establishment of the German Empire.–6 p.50€ ($3. 4€ ($5) children. Lindenstrasse 9–14. See map p. (Mon until 10 p. including the high roof designed for steam engines. and memorabilia. Items on display include ceremonial objects. You can see everything in about an hour. I recommend that you give yourself at least two hours.25) adults. Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) Kreuzberg One of the most talked-about museums in Europe is located in Kreuzberg.). 2. See map p. The modern art on display dates from the second half of the 20th century and includes everything from Andy Warhol’s now legendary Mao to an audiovisual Joseph Beuys archive.75) students and children.m. You probably won’t want to spend more than a few minutes inside. 143. just south of Berlin-Mitte. % 030/2599-3300. works of Jewish artists. ..–8 p.–8 p. 10€ ($13) family ticket (2 adults. and Roy Lichtenstein together with changing Admission: 5€ ($6. % 030/397-83439. photos. Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Emperor William Memorial Church) Charlottenburg One of Berlin’s most famous landmarks.m.m.m. Sat 11 a. the oldest train station in Berlin.146 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburger Bahnhof Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) Tiergarten This showcase of contemporary art opened in 1996 in the 19th-century Hamburger Bahnhof. historical objects. www. documents. free Thurs 2–6 p. 2 children). Open: Tues–Fri and Sun 10 a. You follow a chronological pathway occasionally interrupted by deliberately disorienting memorial spaces. The building still retains traces of its former use. Free organ concerts take place there every Saturday year-round at 6 p. This museum has plenty to see.m.juedisches-museumberlin.m. and the ruined shell was preserved as a symbol of the ravages of war. portraits of prominent Jewish figures. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor (then a 5-minute walk east on Gitschiner Strasse and north on Lindenstrasse).

tr. Jerusalemer Ge r tr au d elms Wilh en str . nd U U-Bahn J Schützenstr an Potsdamer te ten Al Platz i Information Zimmerstr. Mark- Str. - kn e ch t-S tr. m se tr. tr.str hard er p in K Monbijoue . rst ue Ma xelSp ring Charlottens A LEHRTER BAHNHOF Mü Alte Nationalgalerie 12 0 1/4 mi nzs 16 15 S tr. Moh MÄRKISCHES str. t s HEINE-STR. ri r ALEXANDERMa BerlinerMoltkeDom 8 St S PLATZ 14 brücke (Sculpture Bode Museum Pergamon ht U ec Fernsehturm m Collection. MUSEUMSAlle e th KLOSTERSTR. M S (Museum Island) 10 Str. erstr. Str elms e str. Checkpoint Charlie 3 17. Juni er i r s ch Museumsinsel W erd e arkt Behrenstr. TIERGARTEN U 2 Be Memorial HAUSVOGTEIllev GendarmenPergamon Museum 13 (under FRANZÖSISCHE s l PLATZ ue l a construction) markt STR.25 km s Dirck HACKESCHER xa Lie s en (East Side Gallery) 5 tnd MARKT Washington. DietrichNiederkirchne Platz Kochstr. St M üh e eit Br l en Ebertstr. 3 4 rstr. U STADTMITTE KronenMUSEUM L e n né . . m k str r da e S 13 12 ieb Byzantine Art) 14 s e 17 L . er-S Wilh ak ob str . Luisen- str. Platz K S S-Bahn r Str.U str. i atha 7 S c h if f r e Museum 7 de GeorgenPaul-Löbe-Allee STRASSE rleDDR Bo R . Mau t r. grafen- tr. all str U ren. Rathaus str. S p Ka Deutsches Historisches 11 str Haus der 10 8 Platz der Museum 9 Reichstag Kulturen LustRepublik garten Dorotheenstr. p r e Französische 5 e Holocaust Nikolaiviertel 6 Jägerstr. 147 Berlin-Mitte Attractions er KOCHSTR.U . str. str. . Glinka- da mm Charlotten- Gr un er Universitätsst Friedrichstr. sst Mittel9 Alexanderplatz 16 au Scheidemannstr. Friedrichstr. N e u e str. Sp an da r ue r. Fernsehturm am der Welt r. MOHRENSTR. Str. PLATZ o e m a d m s t U Po ma S . lev SPITTELMARKT Leipziger ues Jak o b HEINRICH. r. an st r . u u r ba e st FRIEDRICH. tstr rech Alb Tuch olsk yst St fer Kup Oberwall- r. brücke st n e . r t s W l l a U U Bel Voss. gra b en str. it (Gedenkstätte Kronprinzenpark platz “Berliner Mauer”) 15 r.HAUPTBAHNHOF r. str. W Schwules Museum 12 U N alle K str. AlexanderR M Berlin Wall oab platz S l. UNTER DEN a 6 R INSEL Gendarmenmarkt 2 LINDEN Brandenburger U NIKOLAIden Lin Jüdisches Museum 4 SchlossS 1 n Tor de BebelVIERTEL Unter St platz Pariser Platz des platz Mauermuseum Haus am r s a de la u e Platz Strasse 18. -KolmarGertrud Str. r. r tr. r b Ale t 0 0. n St Leipziger Post Office e Leipziger POTSDAMER Krausenstr. . r. str.str. ied e TaubenUnter den Linden 1 erw urstr Rungestr. Ora Altes Museum 11 nie N n b u r g e r S tr . MarleneZimmerstr. Museum of Museum n . Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Friedrichstr. März r S t r. Berlin Wall . ns tr.

com. this small museum in Kreuzberg is well worth an hour of your time. Located near what once was Checkpoint Charlie. false passports. and Otto Dix.m.m.m. stroll. Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery) Kulturforum.m. hot-air balloons. % 030/218-5023. 143. and elegant street in this part of Berlin. Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Wall Museum at Checkpoint Charlie) Kreuzberg If you’re interested in the history of the Berlin Wall. Kurfürstendamm Tiergarten The famous boulevard known as the Ku-Damm is western Berlin’s answer to Paris’s Champs-Elysées. % 030/253-7250. built in 1542 for the Prince-Electors (Kurfürsten) to reach their hunting lodge in the Grünewald more easily. and people-watch. new church daily 9 a.. the most frequently used traffic crossing into East Berlin. Mark Rothko. contains a small but impressive collection of international 20th-century painting and sculpture. the Ku-Damm was the most brilliant. and two bitter and brilliant oils by . The photographs. For years the Ku-Damm hogged all the city’s glamour because dreary East Berlin had nothing to rival it. 147. Kurfürstendamm at Breitscheidplatz. Dalí.75€ ($6) children and students.m. It’s currently going through a rebuilding phase to spruce itself up and lure people back from eastern Berlin. designed in 1968 by famed German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe.mauermuseum. From the start of the 20th century until WWII. even a minisub) used by East Germans may give you a new take on the meaning of freedom. an enormous expanse of glass windows and simple symmetry. Open: Memorial church Mon–Sat 10 a. U-Bahn: Kochstrasse (then a 5-minute walk north on Friedrichstrasse). newspaper clippings. Today’s busy commercial artery began as nothing more than a humble log road. filled with legendary cafes and renowned for its nightlife. Admission: Free.50€ ($12) adults.m. Admission: 9. the museum documents the wall’s history from its construction in 1961 to its fall in 1989 to 1990. sit. 4. Of special interest are the paintings by early. Tiergarten The only “old” structure in the aggressively modern Kulturforum complex is the New National Gallery. Friedrichstrasse 43–45. 143. The museum. including works by de mid-20th-century German artists Max Beckmann.148 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map on p. See map on p. lively.–7 p. See map p. Max Ernst. and attempted escape devices (chairlifts. www. Miró.–10 p. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (then a 5-minute walk south on Budapester Strasse).–4 p. The street still is a wonderful place to shop. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm (you are on the Ku-Damm when you exit the station). Open: Daily 9 a. and Frank Stella.

restaurants. 147. the altar was discovered in 1876 in western Turkey. you find the Stella Musical Theater. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults.m. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (then a 5-minute walk south on Potsdamer Strasse). (Thurs until 10 p. One of the most visited attractions is the Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz (% 030/2094-5400). Potsdamer Platz is a brand-new. See map p.). Pergamon Museum Museum Island. will undergo an internal and external face-lift (costing 351€ million /$ 420 million) starting in 2011. and the Tiergarten. % 030/2090-5577. Persia. and cafes invite you to shop and relax. supermodern showcase of corporate glitz. Today. Mitte Of all the museums on Museum Island. 4€ ($5) children and students. Potsdamer Strasse 50. the square was cut off from the western sector by the wall and became an ugly strip of mined no-man’s-land. After reunification.m. 4€ ($5) students and children.–6 p. stroll along the Potsdamer Platz Arcades. Around newly created Marlene-Dietrich-Platz. free Thurs 6–10 p. And what you must see is the Pergamon Altar. the Kulturforum.–6 p.D. and Assyria. the Berlin Casino. you’ll understand why. 165). % 030/266-2951. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. To experience the area. The Near East Museum in the museum’s south wing contains one of the largest collections anywhere of antiquities from ancient Babylonia.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 149 George Grosz that capture the decadent despair of the Weimar years in the 1920s. Am Kupfergraben. 143. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz (you are on Potsdamer Platz as you exit the station). U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk east on Georgenstrasse to the Museum Island).). 143. Sat–Sun 11 a.m.m. government offices. which has two movie theaters and a viewing area from which you can look out over the Philharmonie. free admission Thurs 6–10 p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Potsdamer Platz was the busiest spot in Berlin. See map on p. Admission: 8€ ($10) adults. the renowned Pergamon Museum is the one must-see (along with the bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti in the Altes Museum). and the Cine-Max cinema center.–6 p. . one of the most popular in the city. The entire museum. See map p. The gallery also is used for special traveling exhibitions. upscale housing. In 1961. corporations like Sony and Mercedes-Benz rushed in and bought the entire area. where 140 stores. and entertainment. a Roman building facade from the time of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (around A. Potsdamer Platz Tiergarten Before WWII.m. dating from 180 to 160 B.. the Madison City Suites. Another showpiece is the ornate two-storied Market Gate of Miletus.m.m.m.). considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and still holding its own today.m.m. the Grand Hyatt Hotel. (Thurs until 10 p. When you see its grim facade.C. Part of the enormous Temple of Zeus and Athena.

. you take an elevator up to the dome. but the other four museums are definitely worth exploring. gets a much-needed makeover. 143. Reichstag (House of Parliament) Tiergarten The Reichstag is the seat of the reunified German Parliament. Admission: Free.m. were constructed after Frederick William III issued a decree stipulating that the privately owned artwork of the royal family needed to be made accessible to the public. used the incident as an opportunity to seize power. and Cultural Organization. % 030/2273-2131. I recommend that you arrive as early as possible. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the first to reopen its doors after undergoing post-reunification refurbishment. yellow baroque palace was built in 1695 as a breezy summer abode for Sophie Charlotte. Built in a pompous high-Renaissance style between 1884 and 1894. Its present form dates from 1790. the street that follows the river). UNESCO is the United Nations Educational. Today. Allied bombs destroyed part of the Reichstag in WWII. Open: Dome daily 8 a. The museums were the main attractions in old East Berlin. one of the most popular museums in Berlin. so I don’t include it in this guide. After reunification. a new glass dome designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster crowns the building. U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse (then a 5-minute walk west along the Reichstagufer. Much of the palace was destroyed in WWII and painstakingly reconstructed. Platz der Republik. will close in 2011 for several years while it.m. you may have to stand in line for up to three hours before getting in. a complicated process of restoring the buildings and reuniting various collections from the East and West began. The Neues Museum is closed until 2008. where a sweeping vista of Berlin opens out before you. some dating back to the early and mid 19th century.150 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Museumsinsel (Museum Island): Art by decree Five museums on an island in the River Spree form the oldest museum complex in Berlin and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After a security check. The buildings. who. Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) Charlottenburg The oldest section of this lovely. See map p. The dome also has an outdoor observation area and a rooftop restaurant with so-so food (reservations % 030/226-2990).–10 p. the wife of Friedrich I. blaming the fire on the Communists. The domed neo-baroque Bode Museum at the far northern end of the island and the Altes Museum with its Egyptian and classical antiquities collections reopened in 2005 and 2006 respectively after extensive interior modernization. Scientific. too. the building was partially destroyed by a fire in 1933 that probably was set by the Nazis. otherwise. The massive Pergamon Museum.

Romantic. km (1 sq. one of the great landscape architects of the early 19th century. the living quarters of Friedrich I and Sophie Charlotte. “animal garden”) covers almost 2.m. mile) and is the most popular green space in central Berlin.50) adults. If you just want to stroll. trees were replanted and walkways. when desperate citizens chopped down the trees for fuel. the leading architect of the day. and flower beds restored to their original patterns. (last tour at 5 p. you find the charming Schinkel Pavilion. you find the Hansaviertel (Hansa Quarter). Tiergarten Tiergarten The popular Tiergarten (literally.5 sq. 5€ ($6.und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History). as a private park for the electors of Prussia. you need at least four to five hours. (Tiergarten also is the name of Berlin’s smallest neighborhood. U-Bahn: SophieCharlotte-Platz (then a 5-minute walk north on Schlossstrasse). Galerie der Romantik. give yourself a couple of hours. in the Langhansbau wing. 3€ ($ 3. the eye-catching porcelain room. additionally visit the Galerie der Romantik. www. The tour is given only in German (you can buy an English-language guidebook at the ticket counter) and includes the historical rooms. is the most famous of the Tiergarten’s .Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 151 You can see the palace only on a tour. occupies the park’s southwestern corner. % 0331/969-4202. the Tiergarten park is a great place to stroll and relax. which is described in the “Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium)” listing later in this chapter.spsg. See map p. With a combined ticket. close to the Spree River. and to take that tour you have to don huge felt slippers (so you’re effectively polishing the wood floors as you slide around after the guide). The Museum für Vor. is the Belvedere. and Schlossgarten 8€ ($10) adults. which is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. Admission: Combination ticket for historical rooms.). To see the palace and museums.m. In the northwestern corner. a residential area where architects were invited to build projects in the 1950s. canals. Luisenplatz. in 1825. you can. 145. This former royal teahouse contains exquisite Berlin porcelain. Open: Palace and museums Tues–Sun 9 a. leafy trees. the residence of Germany’s president.m. The Berlin Zoo.) With its lawns. ponds.75) children for this museum. Beginning in 1955. a golden goddess of victory perched high atop a red-granite pedestal. It was originally was laid out by Peter Josef Lenné. and the beautifully landscaped Schlossgarten (palace gardens). The Siegessäule (Victory Column).m. to 5 p. displays the famous Schliemann collection of antiquities from Troy. and more than 23km (14 miles) of meandering paths.–5 p.25) children. much of it from the 1700s. and Biedermeier periods. The park was devastated during and just after WWII. You must pay a separate admission of 6€ ($ 7. with its fine collection of paintings from the neoclassical. and pretty Schloss (Palace) Bellevue (S-Bahn: Bellevue). an Italianate summer house designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. on your own. At the far end of the Schlossgarten.m. In the Schlossgarten. and the royal

m.–8 p. The giant Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral. The aquarium is home to more than 9. The Staatsoper Unter den Linden.m. The Zeughaus (Armory).” came from the linden trees that were originally planted along the street. www. See map p. many of them in open habitats. The most popular residents are the giant pandas. and Potsdamer for adults. a wide boulevard that bisects the Tiergarten and is the western extension of Unter den Linden.50€ .de. reached by climbing up a 290-step spiral staircase. Hardenbergplatz 8. 147. The column stands in the center of the Strasse des 17 Juni. Bus: 100. The column’s 48m-high (157-ft.aquarium-berlin. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or Hansaplatz. is open daily from 9:30 a. Friedrich Schinkel’s 1818 Neue Wache (New Watch) served as headquarters for the King’s Guard and now contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Tomb of the Unknown Resistance Fighter. the oldest of Berlin’s three opera houses.000 fish. the Brandenburg Gate. Following reunification. 5. open daily 9 a. Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s most famous and historically significant streets. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (the entrance is a 3-minute walk east on Budapester Strasse). The hippoquarium is a new attraction. Admission is 1€ ($ 1.) observation platform.) squats at the end of Unter den Linden.000 animals live here. Germany’s oldest and Europe’s largest zoo occupies almost the entire southwest corner of the Tiergarten.m. is also located here. insects. See map p. More than 13. houses the Deutsches Museum (see the later section on “Finding more cool things to see and do”). www. % 030/25-40-10. 143. Lustgarten. Unter den Linden Mitte Laid out in 1647 and extending a bit more than a kilometer (3⁄4 mile) east from the Brandenburg Gate. the historically significant buildings along Unter den Linden were spruced up and the avenue filled up with souvenir shops. With kids in tow you can easily spend half a day in the zoo and aquarium. to 6:30 p. with more than 550 species of birds. which means “under the lindens. 143. reptiles.m. This boulevard is the oldest and royalest in central Berlin. Bounded on the west by Bahnhof Zoo and the Europa Center. luxury car showrooms. and cafes. Admission: Zoo 11€ ($14) adults.152 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany many monuments. The zoo also has a modern aviary. The name. free for children younger than 12. with several monumental buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. and other creatures. Berlin’s largest baroque building and the first (1706) major building to be constructed on Unter den Linden. amphibians. on the east by Berlin-Mitte. U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden (you are on the avenue as you exit the station). S-Bahn: Tiergarten or Bellevue. See map p. Zoologischer Garten Berlin & Aquarium (Berlin Zoo-Aquarium) Tiergarten Founded in 1844.

to 6 p.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 153 ($7) children. is one of the last works of the great Berlin-born architect Walter Gropius.m. silverware. Open: Zoo Mar 15–Oct 14 daily 9 a. ߜ The Bauhaus–Archiv Museum für Gestaltung (BauhausDesign Museum). completed in Finding more cool things to see and do Berlin is full of museums. S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten. The museum is small enough that you can see everything in an S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). sculpture.m. ߜ Berlin’s Botanischer Garten (Botanical Garden). www. The museum. aquarium 11€ ($14) adults. houses one of the world’s finest collections of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) and Art Deco furniture. ߜ The DDR Museum.). aquarium year-round daily 9 a. Admission is 7€ ($9) adults. and finally settled in Berlin.m.25) for adults.–6 p. Oct 15–Mar 14 daily 9 a. hands-on experience of everyday life in the Communist DDR (Deutsche Democratische Republik.m.50€ ($7) children.m. free on first Wednesday of every month. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. is dedicated to the Bauhaus school. The museum.50€ ($3) for children. is open Wednesday through Monday from 10 a. U-Bahn: Dahlem–Dorf).m. to 5 p. . www. all from 1889 to 1939. free for children 12 and younger. Berlin newest new museum. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). The garden is open daily from 9 a. www. Klingelhöferstrasse 14 (% 030/254-0020. Give yourself an hour or so to stroll through the garden itself. before the Nazis forced the school to disband in 1933. brohan-museum. is also on the premises. design. A small botanical museum (open daily 10–6:30 p. English-language texts and audio guides describing the exhibits are available. ߜ The Bröhan Museum. You also find an extensive arboretum and several special collections. and crafts. Admission is 5€ ($6. to dusk. a completely decorated set of rooms from a luxurious private residence of the 1920s and 1930s. combined ticket 17€ ($25) adults.m.25). Here are additional places that you may find of interest.botanischer-gartenberlin. You need at least an hour to peruse the exhibits. of more interest to dedicated gardeners than the general public. painting.–6 p. 4€ ($5) children younger than 12.m. Schlossstrasse 1A (% 030/3269-0600.m. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). www. 8.. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 at Weimar.m. de. 2. and technology. 5.. Königin-LuiseStrasse 6–8 (% 030/8385-0100. located near the Dahlem Museums on the outskirts of The Palm House is one of the largest in the world. including a garden for blind visitors and another with water plants. which sought to combine art.m. Admission is 5€ ($6. gardens and many other places to visit — you won’t be lacking of things to do. Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1 (% 030/847-123-731. A must-see is the Suite Emile-Jacques Ruhlman. offers an interesting. moved to Dessau.–5 p.m.50€ ($) children. glass. near the Tiergarten. contains vast collections of European and exotic plants.

Personally. to midnight. is Berlin’s largest uninterrupted wooded area. Havelchausee.) Admission is 5€ ($6.75) for students. Admission is 6€ ($7. appeals to anyone who has an interest in German film or film in general. while the eastern border is roughly marked off by four lakes: .. explore a typical DDR living room. The museum is open daily from 10 a. www.50) for children under 16. Berliners call it “the speared onion” because of its shape. nostalgic charm to many of the You need at least an hour here.000 years of German history in pictures and documents. The elevator to the top costs 8€ ($10) for adults and 3. S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). Alexanderplatz (% 030/242-3333.dhm. to 6 p. Unter den Linden 2 (% 030/20304-444. to 8 The tower is open daily March through October from 9 a. ߜ The Fernsehturm am Alexanderplatz (Television Tower). located on the Spreepromenade directly opposite the Berlin Cathedral. The fascinating Marlene memorabilia includes photos. The rooms are set up chronologically. and rummage through drawers and closets. this one is exhaustive and can be exhausting because it attempts to cover 2. and documents. the forest stretches some 10km (6 miles) south to the popular Wannsee lake.). costumes. ߜ The Grünewald (S-Bahn: Grünewald).filmmuseum-berlin. a 39-sq.m. admission is 4€ ($5). and 3€ ($3. The entire history of German cinema is documented in rare film clips from the silent era up to the present. props.m.m.m. Like many German museums. Visitors can sit in a Trabi.50) for adults. too.50€ ($4. is a new museum housed in the old Zeughaus (Armory). the DDR’s version of a car. is open daily from 10 a. to midnight.berliner fernsehturm. Panoramastrasse 1a. the forest’s western border. in English) before the fall of the wall in 1989. open doors. letters. a native Berliner who catapulted to international fame in 1930 in Josef von Sternberg’s Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel) and went on to become Germany’s only major star in Hollywood. Sony Center in Potsdamerstrasse 2 (% 030/300-9030. www. There’s a kind of heartfelt. and daily November through February from 10 a. ߜ The Deutsches Historisches Museum (German History Museum).m.-km ( or German Democratic Republic. From Heerstrasse.m. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). (Sat until 10 p. ߜ The Filmmuseum Berlin. The museum. You find a revolving restaurant (the Telecafe) up there. I would recommend that you visit the first-floor galleries devoted to World War II.154 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany called the GDR. is a weird-looking television tower built by the Communists back in the 1960s. An elevator whisks you up to the top for a stunning panorama. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.-mile) forest that begins just beyond the western edge of the Kurfürstendamm.m. winds past several picturesque bays and beaches along the Havel River.m.m. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). it’s a sobering experience.m. One wing is devoted to the legendary Marlene Dietrich. www. to 6 p. (Thurs until 8 p.

de. open daily from 10 a. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). one of the world’s oldest gay and lesbian bookstores. nonfiction. Admission is 5€ ($ www. Kreuzberg is another gay-friendly borough with a big selection of bars. www. The gay scene is more international in the area around Nollendorfplatz. and Schildhorn. A memorial plaque mounted on the outside south wall of the Nollendorfplatz subway station. stocks a vast array of new and rare fiction.m. The Schwules Museum (Gay Museum). and other languages. Den Homosexuellen Opfern des National Socialismus (Killed and Forgotten. reads: Totgeschlagen-Totgeschiegen.mann-o-meter. the Grünewald (Green Forest) is a good place to get away from the urban jungle. up to The Homosexual Victims of National Socialism). Traditionally. Loaded with wooded paths and sandy beaches. English. and other political victims. is devoted to the powerful works of Berlinborn artist Käthe Kollwitz (1867–1945). The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 2 to 6 p. Another good source for information is Eisenherz Buchladen. lesbian and gay life has centered around Nollendorfplatz (U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). to 8 p. and the city remains a mecca for international gay and lesbian travelers.m. in the heart of what has been for decades the gay heart of Berlin. Bülowstrasse 106 (% 030/216-3336. Krumme people congregate for this Gay Pride festival. Gypsies. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse).. Prenzlauer Berg has become the new gay area. see “Checking out the dance clubs and bars. is a large gallery-like space in Kreuzberg with changing exhibitions on gay life in Germany and around the world. The first woman ever . S-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). The staff is knowledgeable and helpful.prinz-eisenherz.25).berlin. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder that the Nazis exterminated thousands of homosexuals in addition to millions of Jews. Schlachtensee. Fasanenstrasse 24 (% 030/882-5210. For my recommended gay and lesbian nightspots.” later in this chapter. ߜ The Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum. Berlin is the only city in the world with a gay museum. and magazines in German. although on weekends you have plenty of company. The center is open Monday through Friday from 5 to 9 p.. The city’s gay information center is Mann-oMeter.schwulesmuseum. Mehringdamm 61 (% 030/6959-9050. which has had gay bars since the 1920s. The store. Love Parade/Love Week in July attracts thousands to a huge gay party scene. Lietzenburger Strasse 9a (% 030/313-9936. Nollendorfplatz is the site of the Lesbisch-Schwules Stadtfest (LesbianGay Street Fair). U-Bahn: Mehringdamm).m. Also see Chapter 9.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 155 Gay and lesbian Berlin Berlin has a century-old gay and lesbian history.m. More information on gay life in Berlin is available on the Web site www. the so-called Pink (or Gay) Village. In the eastern part of the city. art books. Grünewaldsee. Saturday until 5 p. In mid-June. The Christopher Street Day parade is an even larger citywide gay event that takes place the last week in June. www.

to 6 p. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). ߜ Kunstgewerbemuseum (Arts and Crafts Museum). is an enjoyable multimedia museum that uses films. Braque. to 6 p. and old churches make this quarter ideal for a leisurely and picturesque ramble along the Spree River. Nikolaikirchplatz.m. U-Bahn: Sophie-Charlotte-Platz). including the reign of Frederick the Great. the Nikolaikirche (Church of St.m. Admission is 5€ ($6. is a collection of medieval church articles in gold and silver. the church was restored in time for the city’s 750th anniversary in 1987. showcases several important paintings by Picasso and works by Klee. Admission is 6€ ($7..50) for adults. period taverns. the Golden 1920s. is a historic riverside quarter restored to resemble its medieval and baroque heyday (with a few modern design touches). Saturday and Sunday 11 a. a small museum located across from the Egyptian Museum in Charlottenburg. adjoining the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery. You also find a nice cafeteria. Kurfürstendamm 207–208 (% 030/8872-0100. The Nazis later banned her works. and 3€ ($3.–6 p. Named for Berlin’s oldest church. sounds. % 030/ 2472-4529. ߜ Nikolaiviertel (Nicholas Quarter. Admission is 8€ ($10) for adults. open Tues–Sun 10 a. 3€ ($3. Kollwitz resigned her position in 1933 to protest Hitler’s rise to power. The Guelph Treasure. and colorful displays to tell about eight centuries of life in Berlin. not far from the Gendarmenmarkt in Berlin Mitte. displays applied arts and crafts from the Middle Ages through the present day. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. down narrow streets illuminated by gas lanterns.m.m. Matthäiskirchplatz. Reconstructed palaces. to 4:30 p. Schlossstrasse 1 (% 030/3269-5819. Ku’damm-Karree.m. the quarter was the last major reconstruction project of the German Democratic Party that ruled former East Germany. Matisse.m. Kulturforum (% 030/2090-5555.m. and Giacometti. The lower floors of the museum display woodcuts and lithographs. Beginning with the city’s founding in 1237.m. Many of Kollwitz’s works express the sorrow. 4€ ($5) for children. U-/S-Bahn: Mendelssohn–Bartholdy–Park).156 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany elected to the Prussian Academy of the Arts. .m. its most dazzling exhibit. see earlier description). WWII and its aftermath. to 6 p.). U-Bahn: Klosterstrasse).75) for children and students. loss. You can see the collection in about half an hour.75) for students and children. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. and deprivations of wartime and have a stark. to 6 p.m. open from 10 a. the upper floors contain sculptures. grieving quality. photos.m. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from 11 a. the Industrial Revolution. The basement rooms display contemporary design from the German Bauhaus school to American Charles Eames and the Memphis design group. the themed exhibits chronicle all the major historical events. your ticket for the Gemäldegalerie will get you in.25) for adults. ߜ Museum Berggruen: Picasso und Seine Zeit (Berggruen Museum: Picasso and His Times). ߜ The Story of Berlin. Nicholas.

. daily. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm).m.m. with an additional 2:15 p. Adolf Hitler. Niederkirchnerstrasse 8 (% 030/2548-6703. and 2 p.m.m. Severin+Kühn offers its Potsdam/Sanssouci tour on Tuesday. From November through March. and the fall of the wall. tour on Fridays. the Brandenburg Gate. All tours include a guide who delivers commentaries in German and English.). The museum is open daily from 10 a. The same company’s three-hour “Big Berlin Tour” departs at 10 a. to 8 p.m.m. head upstairs to the front seats for the best views. and Sunday at 10 a. located in what once was part of the Nazi SS and Gestapo headquarters. Allow at least two hours to see everything. and covers more sites (and includes add-ons like Potsdam or a river cruise).m. You can catch the double-decker bus in front of Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). offers a two-hour “City Circle Tour” that departs daily every half-hour from 10 a. Departures are Tuesday through Sunday at 10 a. (until 8 p.m. Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour Taking a guided sightseeing tour (Stadtrundfahrt) can help you to see parts of this huge city that you may otherwise miss.m. which leaves from Bahnhof Zoo and passes most of the major sites in western and eastern Berlin. You can get on and off the bus at any point during the hour. Admission is free. former residence of Frederick the Great (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter). on foot. May–Sept).de. making them accessible and enjoyable for kids and adults. a guide takes you down to visit an underground nuclear bomb shelter built in the 1970s. From April through October. At the end of the tour.m. and 21€ ($26) for families (2 adults. Saturday. costs 22€ ($27) per person. Saturdays. and Sundays. and Potsdamer Platz.50€ ($4. Although you don’t get a guide. U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz).30€ ($12) for adults. www. Tickets cost 20€ ($25) per person. You can tour Germany’s capital with an experienced guide by bus. to 6 p.. Kurfürstendamm 216 (% 030/880-4190. is an open-air exhibit detailing how the Nazis came to power and the crimes against humanity they committed under the leadership of der Führer.m. 2 children). Bus tours Severin+Kühn. (Nov–Mar until 3 p. site of the palace of Sanssouci. The price is 37€ ($46) per person. The tour passes 14 important stops in Berlin. 7. 3.m. The exhibit is open daily from 10 a.severinkuehn-berlin.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 157 divided Berlin during the Cold War.50€ ($9) for students. This attraction is a good overall introduction to Berlin that teens may enjoy. ߜ Topographie des Terrors (Topography of Terror).50) for children. to 6 p.m. Severin+Kühn also conducts an interesting tour of Potsdam. including the Europa Center. Thursday. Admission is 9. or by boat. the cheapest bus tour of Berlin is public bus 100.m. (last admission 6 p.).

who wears a Berlin Walks badge. Be aware. outside the main entrance to Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten (Zoo Station). and 2:30 p.m. this tour. www. such as Goebbels’s Propaganda Ministry and Hitler’s New Reichschancellery.158 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Walking tours For an excellent introduction to Berlin and its history. just walk along the Spreepromenade behind the Berlin (Nov–Mar at 10 a. For a quick and interesting take on Berlin from the water.m. offers boat trips from April through October. This walk starts daily at 10 a. on Sunday. though. on Saturday. Following an Itinerary Every visitor to Berlin faces one problem: how to see as much as possible in a limited amount of time. Mondays from March through September. in front of the taxi stand.m.berlinwalks. with an additional Wednesday 10 a. “Discover Berlin” is a three-hour introductory tour that takes you past the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate. see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z” earlier in this chapter. Pushkinallee 60–70 (% 030/536-3600. Several other companies offer boat tours as well. For descriptions of most of the stops. you can request an English translation).m.m.sternundkreis.und Kreisschiffahrt. or three days at your disposal? The itineraries in this section are common-sense. . What do you see if you have only one. Local waterways include the Spree and Havel rivers — ranging in size from narrow channels to large lakes — in addition to the many canals created in the 19th century. free for children younger than 14. and the monumental heart of the former East Berlin. try one of the English-language walking tours offered by Original Berlin Walks (% 030/ 301-9194. the city’s best-known boat operator. tour from April through September (Sat only at 1 p. “Infamous Third Reich Sites” focuses on the sites of major Nazi buildings in central Berlin. and Hafen Treptow. and you’ll find several landing docks with waiting boats.m. You don’t need advance reservations for any of the tours. The same company offers other boat tours from Jannowitzbrücke in Berlin-Mitte Schlossbrücke near Charlottenburg Palace. 10€ ($13) for those younger than 26. starts at 2:30 p. the Pergamon Museum. the one-hour “Inner City” trip (8€/$10) departing from Nikolaiviertel offers good views of the Reichstag. that all of its tours are given only in German (on most tours. limited-time suggestions that include the top Berlin sights. www. among other major sites. only). the Königliche Bibliothek (Royal Library). available March through October. the tour starts at 10 a. Nov–Mar).m. 10 a.m. two. You meet the guide. “Jewish Life in Berlin” takes you through the prewar Jewish community. Boat tours A boat tour is the most unusual way to see portions of Berlin. Tours last from 21⁄2 to 3 hours and cost 12€ ($15) for adults.

Some stores in highly trafficked areas (such as the Hauptbahnhof) are open on Sunday. If you have two days in Berlin On the second day. For the two major Trödelmarkts (flea markets). see the “Berlin flea markets” sidebar.m. to 2 p. followed by a visit to the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) and the Neue Nationalgalerie. with its Cold War museum. head over to the Jüdisches Museum in Freuzberg or explore the Tiergarten. and their prices are lower here than in the United States. and then go on to Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace) for a palace tour. stop in at Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie.m. In the evening. china. But keep in mind that you’ll pay less for goods made in Germany and the European Union than for goods imported to Germany from the United States. Return to Potsdamer Platz to see the newest section of Berlin. and end with a stroll down Unter den Linden or the Kurfürstendamm. a concert. Saturday hours usually are from 9 or 10 a. In the afternoon. exploring the nearby Gendarmenmarkt and paying a brief visit to the Pergamon Museum to see the Pergamon Altar and/or the Altes Museum to view the famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nerfertiti. often to 8:30 p. First visit the Reichstag. both in the Kulturforum. visiting the palace of Sanssouci and grounds (see “Day-tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci” later in this chapter).m. Many stay open late on Thursday evenings. to 6 or 6:30 p. and cutlery. except on the sales racks in the department stores.” earlier). Don’t expect a lot of “deals” in Berlin. symbol of Berlin.m. for example. but Sunday shopping is otherwise not common. then walk down Unter den Linden. where the new dome provides a marvelous view out over the city. walk along the Kurfürstendamm and dine in a local restaurant. . If you have three days in Berlin Spend half of the third day in Potsdam. are prized for their quality. or a cabaret/variety show. In the evening. Afterward. Most stores in Berlin are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. take a walking or bus tour of Berlin (see “Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 159 If you have one day in Berlin Start early. German porcelain. crystal.m. Shopping for Local Treasures Berlin is a great shopping city and you can find just about anything you want. From there you can walk to the Brandenburg Gate. enjoy an opera.

U-Bahn: Bernauer Strasse). porcelain. is on Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). many specializing in German fashions for women. here you’ll find antiques and collectibles. The Berliner Trödelmarkt (no phone. U-Bahn: Reinickendorfer Strasse). is the favorite weekend shopping spot for countless Berliners. . line the street.m. outdoor retail “passage” created right on the Ku-Damm at Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). to 5 p. adjacent to the Tiergarten S-Bahn station near the corner of the Bachstrasse and Strasse des 17 Juni. in addition to stores carrying cheap souvenirs and T-shirts. Berlin flea markets A flea market in Germany is called a Trödelmarkt or a Flohmarkt.m. nostalgia.m. S-Bahn: Tiergarten). truth to tell. The shopping scene has definitely moved east as well. Neighborhoods and malls The main shopping boulevard in the western part of Berlin is the famous Ku-Damm. sort-of antiques. which remains the best place for allpurpose. an upscale. especially between Breitscheidplatz and Olivaer Platz. Europa Center has lost much of its allure and looks dated compared to the newly opened Neues Kranzler Eck. But. short for Kurfürstendamm (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). trendier.m. but the stores there tend to be newer. are good shopping grounds. If you’re in Mitte on Sunday between 10 a. The specialty stores on the side streets around the Ku-Damm. The same times apply to the flea market at Heidestrasse (% 030/452-9924. and records. who come to find pieces of kitsch. where you can browse for clothing and bric-a-brac. The market is open every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. If nothing catches your fancy. Another good shopping street in western Berlin. is Tauentzienstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) and its intersecting streets: Marburger Strasse. and Nürnberger Strasse. furniture. This area offers a wide array of stores. all-around shopping. check out the flea market at Arkonaplatz (% 030/786-9764. including books. Ranke Strasse. and used clothing. and more expensive. Quality stores. close to Ku-Damm. Berlin’s first shopping mall.160 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Shopping in western Berlin Throughout the decades when the wall divided Berlin. and 6 p. the only decent shopping was in western Berlin. just take a seat at one of the many cafes around Arkonaplatz and enjoy the scene in one of Berlin’s hippest neighborhoods.. the Europa Center (% 030/3480088). which is currently undergoing a piecemeal renovation/face-lift to bring it up to par with eastern Berlin and lure back shoppers. here you find around 75 shops joined by restaurants and cafes. Stores here often are cheaper than on the fancier KuDamm. but it’s best to come early because many traders leave by midafternoon.

home to some of the most exclusive boutiques in the city. is good for travel aids and general basics: perfumes. Some of the stores offer cost-cutting clothing and housewares. and happening neighborhood area is eastern Berlin’s Scheuneviertel. and Sophienstrasse. Department stores Kaufhaus des Westens (called KaDeWe [ka-day-vay] for short). one of the most comprehensive shopping malls in Berlin. Chapeaux Hutmode Berlin. Shoppers interested in quality at any price need to head to Kempinski Plaza. but here are some lesser-known retail venues that may be of interest to fashionistas. Grosse Hamburger Strasse. and souvenirs. or “barn district” (S-Bahn: Hackescher Markt). has some of the best boutiques and big-name stores in Berlin. Bleibtreustrasse 51 (% 030/312-0913. jewelry. Cutting-edge shops line the streets around the arcade. A grand pre–World War I shopping arcade with interconnected courtyards (Hinterhöfe) occupies most of the block formed by Oranienburger Strasse. and theaters. Bleibgrün. Rosenthaler Strasse. electrical devices. Fashion Every big-name designer you can think of has a store in Berlin. is a huge department store. photography supplies. Wertheim has a large restaurant with a view over half the city. You find trendier boutiques along Bleibtreustrasse. with more being added all the time. Tauentzien 21 (% 030/21210. is a couture hatmaker inspired by vintage fashion magazines and glamorous . U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Uhlandstrasse 181–183 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). at Uhlandstrasse 170 (U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). and. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). some of its oldest buildings survived the World War II bombing raids that reduced most of Berlin to rubble. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). The spaces within the courtyards have now been turned into a series of galleries. Bleibtreustrasse 30 (% 030/885-0080. and Italy. a small. The new Potsdamer Platz Arkaden (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). Kurfürstendamm 231 (% 030/ 880-030. fashionable women’s shoe store with a helpful staff. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). named for the hay barns that once stood here. known for its six floors of upscale merchandise and sixth-floor food department. The Uhland-Passage. is a long-established shop for men’s and women’s clothing made in Germany.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 161 Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel The newest shopping. amazingly. The area later became Berlin’s Jewish quarter. contains about 100 shops. scattered over three levels. Kurfürstendamm 42 (% 030/881-1000. household goods. Bogner Zenker-Berlin. arts. including haute-couture women’s clothing. Austria. studios. Wertheim. clothing for the entire family.

Rosenthal. Kantstrasse 106 (% 030/324-3582. clubs. U-Bahn: Unter den Linden). carries the most avant-garde jewelry in Berlin. orchestra and chamber concerts. at the corner of Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). For more shopping in the eastern part. Kurfürstendamm 226 (% 030/8856340. sculptures. Friedrichstrasse (U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). is a wonderfully old-fashioned parfumerie where most of the scents come from old family recipes. and leaves. S-Bahn: Savignyplatz). dance. Meissener Porzellan. The performing-arts scene is jammed with opera. grasses. Shopping in eastern Berlin The eastern part of the city has undergone major changes in the retail sector since reunification. and chandeliers. Royal Porcelain Factory).” in this chapter. . Porcelain and china Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur (KPM. is the place to go for contemporary Rosenthal porcelain and china from Bavaria.and 19th-century KPM designs. offers an array of Meissen dinner plates. The main street. see “Berlin’s newest old shopping neighborhood: Scheuneviertel. Savignyplatz 13 Passage (% 030/ 3180-2354.162 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany movies from the 1930s. and theater performances every night of the week. Treykorn. with hundreds of bars. distilled from flowers. Discovering Nightlife in Berlin You find more going on in Berlin than in any other city in Germany. now offers some of Berlin’s most elegant shopping. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorferstrasse). is at the Berliner Markthalle. sells porcelain pieces hand-painted and handdecorated with patterns based on traditional 18th. U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse). Charlottenstrasse 34 (% 030/20458166. showcasing more than three dozen of the boldest jewelry artisans in the city. Berlin’s nightlife is legendary. offering a little bit of everything. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). The prices are amazingly reasonable for the quality of the perfumes. with upmarket boutiques selling everything from women’s fashions to Meissen porcelain. Kurfürstendamm 27 in Kempinski Hotel Bristol (% 030/8867-2110. one of the most famous porcelain manufacturers in Europe. and cabarets appealing to every taste. Perfumes Harry Lehmann. The largest shopping mall in eastern Berlin. variety shows.

U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garter) and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 12. . available at all newsstands.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 163 Finding out what’s happening Check the listings in Zitty (www. both are open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m.zitty. Ticket prices range from about 23€ to 80€ ($29–$100).. and dozens of theaters and cabarets. U-/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). pronounced kah-suh).m. For some of the larger opera. which charge a commission. Tickets for more than 100 or Berlin Programm. ballet. Alternatively. with outlets at Hardenbergstrasse 29 (% 030/2309930. An excellent online source is www. for locations and opening hours. the Deutsche Oper for the latest schedules of what’s going on where. Whenever possible. A Berlin Welcome Card (see Chapter 11) allows you to buy reduced-price tickets (usually 25 percent off) at several major performing-arts venues. you can buy tickets from ticket agencies. you won’t be lacking for things to do. and theater venues throughout Berlin are sold for up to 50 percent off at the BERLIN infostores. to 2 p. classical concerts. Bismarckstrasse 35 (% 030/341-0249 for recorded information or 030/343-8401. you can buy tickets online.hekticket. and classical-music venues. The box office is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. The newest trend is to start performances as early as 6 p.m. Unsold.m. deutscheoperberlin. U-Bahn: Deutsche Oper). ballet companies. I include Web sites in this section so you can check performance schedules and ticket information before you arrive in and cabarets are available at Hekticket ( three opera houses. click “Culture” to access a complete list of events in any category for the specific dates of your visit. If the venue doesn’t have its own Web site. up to the time of performance and on Sunday from 10 a. is the 1950s-era opera house that served the former West Berlin. Opera and ballet In Charlottenburg. musicals. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Good news for culture vultures: With three major symphony orchestras. to 6 p. Tickets can usually be purchased right up to curtain time.m. www. see Chapter including the opera houses. including opera. You can see both opera and ballet here in a house with no bad sightlines. on the S-Bahn bridge at Alexanderplatz (% 030/230-9930. day-of-performance tickets for music. Getting tickets You can buy tickets at the venue’s box office (the box office is called a Kasse. You also can buy tickets online. you may be able to order tickets online at www. so everyone can get home at a reasonable hour.

and Sunday from 1 p. Gendarmenmarkt (% 030/203-090. the renowned Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra under the direction of Sir Simon Rattle plays in the acoustically outstanding Philharmonie. Behrenstrasse 55–57 (% 030/4799-7400. Ticket prices range from about 7€ ($8. to 2 has a useful listing of plays and films in English. I .de. Different ticket prices apply for each event. If you don’t speak the language but want to experience German is a famous and well-respected East Berlin house with a unique artistic identity. performs at both the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt. The city’s third major U-Bahn: Unter den Linden).de) performs English-language plays in different venues around the city.m. some seats in the upper rings have limited views of the stage. and one hour before performances. and Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 8 p. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p. Theater Berlin’s theater scene is outstanding. most of the plays are performed in which is open daily noon to 6 p. and an hour before performances.m. musicals. but.staatsoper-berlin. The Berliner Grundtheater (% 030/7800-1497. Berlin Phil concerts always sell out.m. and symphony concerts are performed here. Tickets range from about 20€ to 80€ ($25–$100).m. The programs feature opera and ballet performances. www. to 7 p. You can buy tickets online.konzerthaus.m. is housed in a historic building in U-/S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). You can buy tickets at the Konzerthaus box office. Matthäikirchstrasse 1 (box office % 030/2548-8999. The box office (Unter den Linden 4) is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. www. The Web site www. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. Unter den Linden 7 (% 030/20-35-40.164 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The Staatsoper Unter den Linden. The historic Schauspielhaus in the former East Berlin has undergone a stunning transformation and is now the Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt..m. Symphony orchestras and classical music In the Kulturforum complex. I suggest you order your tickets online several weeks before your trip. to 8 p.m..75) for standing room to 110€ ($137).m. www. Prices ranges from 8€ to 62€ ($10–$77). of course. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz). pitchperfect hall. operas. The Berlin Symphony Orchestra and other orchestras and classical music groups perform in this glittering. Berlin’s Komische Oper. www. www. to the time of performance.m. Chamber-music concerts are given at the adjoining Kammermusiksaal. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden). so if you want to hear this fabulous orchestra. the Berlin Symphony.thebgt. Tickets are available at the box offices of both venues.

de. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1 (% 030/2840-8155. and many theater fans enjoy seeing Brecht’s plays performed in “his” theater. acrobats. Wintergarten Variété. This cabaret is closed in July. in Mitte. U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). balconies have conventional theater seats (but drinks are sold there. visit www. Nightly shows start at 8:30 and 11 p. and one hour before performances. with a nightly variety show featuring magicians.m. www.m. Die Stachelschweine (The Porcupine). Cover is 29€ to 59€ ($36–$74). depending on the show and the day you attend. The cover charge is 12€ to 26€ ($14–$32). U-/S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). and live music. Friedrichstrasse 107 (% 030/2326-2326. with 4 Cabarets and variety shows Berlin has long been famous for its cabarets and variety shows. jugglers. www. www. and Saturday at 6 and 10 p. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).m.m. and spending an evening in one can be enjoyable even if you don’t speak a word of German. is the largest and most nostalgic Berlin cabaret.m. but most nights (except Mon.. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. when the theater’s closed) the performances begin at 8 p. Shows and showtimes vary. clowns. Friedrichstadt-Palast. Part of the performance usually involves a selection of popular songs.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 165 recommend going to see a production by the famous Berliner Ensemble.25–$37). Believing that these glamorous ladies are really gentlemen sometimes is difficult. is a famous little cabaret where all the performers are in extravagant drag and most of the audience is heterosexual.m. Shows begin at 8 p. Playwright Bertolt Brecht formed this group with his wife. Helene Weigel. Shows take place Tuesday through Friday at 7:30 p. you can find something to do all across the city. The most expensive seats are on stage Ticket prices range from 17€ to 61€ ($21–$76). U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).de. is a cabaret that’s been poking fun at the German and American political scenes for many years now. Marburgerstrasse 14 (% 030/213-1810.. www. too). wintergarten-variete. .de.m. is a big theater that features variety acts from around the world.m. Tauentzienstrasse and Budapester Strasse (% 030/261-4795. to 6 p. Chez Nous Travestie-Theater. www.m.diestachelschweine.berliner-ensemble. The box office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Potsdamer Strasse 96 (% 030/2500-8888.m.. to 6 p. and Saturday at 6 p. matinees on Saturday and Sunday. U-Bahn: Kurfürstenstrasse). For more listings. Ticket prices range from about 5€ to 30€ ($6. Cover is 35€ ($44).cabaret-chez-nous. Europa Center. This section includes just a few of the bars and dance clubs in and 9:15 p.m. Monday through Friday. Checking out the dance clubs and bars If you’re into nightlife.

Cover is 5.. You always find dancing on Wednesday. and Saturday nights.m. to 5 a.m.m. video clips. Admission is free on Tuesday and Wednesday when local musicians perform. Cover is 10€ to 16€ ($13–$19). to 4 a. Friday.m. a stage for floor shows.m. U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz). The club is open Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p.m. . otherwise 13€ ($16). Oranienstrasse 190 (% 030/6140-1306.m. Please keep in mind that new bars open and bars close all the time. so call first.. Live music A Trane. to 4 a. including rock and Latin jazz. draws a young 20-something crowd. Quasimodo. is a large. Cover is 3€ to 8€ ($3. Greifswalderstrasse 224 (% 030/442-7060. smoky jazz club featuring musicians from around the world. housed in an old theater with an Egyptian temple interior. has two very large rooms. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). The club is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 p. Mohrenstrasse 30 (% 030/20230. Many bars now have an open-ended closing policy. An empty club may choose to close at 2 a. This section includes places that are likely to be around for years to come. and highly danceable music. SO36.50€ ($7).. U-Bahn: Adenauerplatz). Dance clubs Chip. is Berlin’s top jazz club. depending on the band.m. the crowd is a hip mixture of gay and straight. Club hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 10 p. Pestalozzistrasse 105 (% 030/313-2550. Cover usually is about 5€ ($6.166 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bars and clubs don’t generally get going until midnight. is a glossy and popular dance club with a great lighting system. depending on the night and who’s playing.m. The club is open most nights from 10:30 p. Saturday and Sunday until 7 a. Kantstrasse 12A (% 030/312-8086. is a four-story club with live rock shows four nights a week featuring German and international touring bands. Friday and Saturday from 9 p. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz).m.75–$10).25). to 2 a. U-Bahn: Stadtmitte). Far Out. Hours are Monday to Friday 10 p. and fog machine.m.m.m. The cover ranges from 3€ to 8€ ($3.m.m. U-Bahn: Savignyplatz). in trendy Kreuzberg..m. in happening Prenzlauer Berg. where you encounter many different styles of music. industrial-looking late-night disco that plays mostly high-energy retro rock for a crowd that includes lots of students. Metropole. to 4 a. Kurfürstendamm 156 (% 030/3200-0717. to 4 a. Show days vary.m. is a small. The club is open Monday through Thursday from 8 p.m.75–$10). Berlin Hilton. but a packed club can stay open until 6 a. call first to verify. Nollendorfplatz 5 (% 030/217-3680. Cover is 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16). The club is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9 p. to 4 a.m. Knaack-Klub. U-Bahn: Prinzenstrasse). to 4 a.

U-Bahn: Görlitzer Bahnhof). otherwise free. Many Berliners have a favorite Kneipe where they stop in after work or later in the evening for a beer and a chat with their friends. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten). Lützowufer 15 in Grand Hotel Esplanade (% 030/ 2547-8821.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 167 Wild at Heart. Admission is about 4€ ($5) for concerts. and they offer meals (see the “Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs” sidebar in this chapter).m. unpretentious spot for a plain old glass of bier vom Fass (beer on tap)? What you need is a Kneipe (ka-nigh-puh).m. Times Bar. . The following bars currently are popular. with minimalist décor.m. Lore Berlin is open nightly until 3 a. pop art. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). Reingold. Savoy Hotel..m.m. The bar is open daily from 3 p.m. great dance music. less for a glass of beer. a cozy place similar to a neighborhood pub in the United Kingdom. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). to 10 a. is reminiscent of a wood-paneled private club in London. is chic and elegant. The Times Bar isn’t a late-nightscene bar. more for anything exotic.m. is dedicated to hard-core punk. Harry’s New York Bar. Bar am Lützowplatz. with bands from Germany and elsewhere playing Wednesday through Saturday nights. until 4 a. Neue Schönhauser Strasse 20 (% 030/2804-5134. Times Bar is open daily from 11 a. Lore Berlin. is hip and fun.50) for a straightforward drink. geared toward a very late-night glamour crowd. A small bar like this sometimes is called a Lokal (low-call). Neighborhood bars: Kneipes and Lokals Do you want to find a casual. Lützowplatz 7 (% 030/262-6807. and intimate. to 2 a. one of the longest and narrowest bars in Berlin. and an intriguing mix of people hanging around a long and narrow bar with theatrical lighting that makes almost everyone look attractive. quiet. cozy. to 4 a.m. and photographs of American presidents. but rather a place where you can relax in a big leather chair and read The Times of London. 11 Novalistrasse (% 030/2838-7676. Saturday and Sunday from 8 p. Wienerstrasse 20 (% 030/611-7010.m. has a menu listing almost 200 drinks and a limited selection of food. These places tend to be fashion-conscious.m. features cutting-edge design. Fasanenstrasse 9 (% 030/311-030. Popular bars Later is better if you want to go out barhopping and see what’s happening in Berlin. The club is open Monday through Friday from 8 p. and rockabilly. U-Bahn: Nollendorfplatz). Harry’s is open daily from noon to 2 a.m. The place is open nightly until 4 a. Brewpubs also are good places to sample beer. so you may feel out of place if you show up in blue jeans and sneakers. Expect to pay at least 6€ ($7. rock. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz).

George right outside. smoky.50€ to 13€ ($6. and raucous. Spreeufer 4 (% 030/242-4244. The town celebrated its 1. Berlin is home to hundreds of Kneipes and Lokals. The house beer is a pale.) .m.m. Traditional food is served in an adjacent room Monday through Saturday from 11 a. even though the building is relatively new. Dating from 1892.m. is named after the statue of St. Friday and Saturday 10 a.m. also unfiltered and topfermented. U-Bahn: Richard-Wagner-Platz). has a darkish amber color. to midnight. to 10:30 p. and a nice balance of hop bitterness and malt flavor. Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci Frederick the Great’s Schloss Sanssouci (palace of Sanssouci) in Potsdam is the architectural signature of one of Germany’s most dominating personalities. main courses go for 9.2-liter) glass (1. or microbrewery) in Berlin. 24km (15 miles) southwest of Berlin. You can order beer in a smallish 6-ounce (0. to 2 a.000th anniversary in 1993 and has historic sites of its own. the helles (light) is top-fermented. Gaststätte Hoeck is the oldest Kneipe in Charlottenburg and still has its original wood panels with inlaid glass on the walls. Gasthaus Georgenbräu.20€/$4). blond. A famous one is Gaststätte Hoeck. main courses run from 5. Allow yourself at least half a day to visit this remarkable palace and its beautiful grounds. (See the “Potsdam” map on the next page.m. to midnight. Gasthaus Luisenbräu.168 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Sampling fresh beer at brewpubs The first Bierhaus (brewpub. The brewpub is open Sunday to Thursday from 10 a. to 12:30 a.4-liter) serving (3. You can order hearty portions of German food (meat. U-Bahn: Bismarckstrasse).m. but be sure to make the palace of Sanssouci your top priority. You can choose between beers brewed on-premises.m. Hours are 8 a. The Gasthof is open daily from 10 a. You can also order plates of hearty German food. Wilmersdorferstrasse 149 (% 030/341-8174. dumplings. The dunkles (dark). unfiltered. U-Bahn: Klostergasse).. a brewpub in the Nikolaiviertel beside the River Spree.m. The bar can be loud. Luisenplatz 1 (% 030/341-9388. sauerkraut.90–$16). and unfiltered.60€/$2) or in an 11-ounce (0. a former garrison town on the Havel River.50€ to 13€ ($12–$16). blond. is now the capital of the state of Brandenburg. opened in 1987 across the street from Charlottenburg Palace. Potsdam. and salads) to accompany your beer.. The smoky interior of this brewpub is comfortably Old Berlin. Bartenders pour more than a dozen kinds of beer and serve wine by the glass. a yeasty aroma. topfermented beer.

en dt M ran mb Re Am Neuen Palais Linden str. nal rlin ho 6 7 pe Gregornh Mendel-Str. au 4 er . The bus fare is 1. Dortustr. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof asse i ge Lan cke Brü tr. 695 in front of the station and ride nine stops to the Schloss Sanssouci stop. ws Havel -M er an nAl lee L 0 0 0. you can take one of the Potsdam–Sanssouci bus tours offered by the sightseeing bus companies on Ku-Damm (see “Bus tours” earlier in this chapter).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 169 Potsdam Hamburg 614 Berlin Potsdam r. s te r dte g irewe Volta Allee str. S-Bahn line S7 stops at the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station. Feue rba str. str Ze e pp lin . Str Kurfü rsten er ass e H. r.25 mi N DINING Biergarten 6 Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle” 7 ATTRACTIONS Bildergalerie 5 Chinesische Teehaus 3 Neues Palais 1 Orangerie 2 Schloss Cecilienhof 8 Schloss Sanssouci 4 Information i Railway Getting there To get to Sanssouci. Fried rich-E nge Sch laa tzs tr.-Sachs-Str.. C. He zig Tor no eip Im Bogen 631 610 606 Str. Cross the road. 94 95 W BRANDENBURGER VORSTADT St or m . Hop on bus no. str S-Bahn Station S inr ich t ies te-P en ule str wk . If you don’t want to hassle with anything. turn left. Nedlitzer St en str . Str. tten Charlo str. Lo a- St r. The trip couldn’t be easier: From Berlin. Tiefer See Hu Br mbo üc ld ke t- Nu th es Breite Str Forststr. lst ze str. the cost is generally about 40€ ($50) for a half-day fast-track tour. Jungfernsee 8 GERMANY ee ha ll ds Am un Frankfurt Munich Am S Pap pela llee chra g BORNSTEDT Ka th ho arin lzs en tr. ch- Schloss Charlottenhof Kastanienallee Am Ka n ue Ne en AmGart M an g str. rn Bo NEUER GARTEN Heiliger See rsc rten Ki un ds e Am Ruinenberg llee BERLINER VORSTADT er str .-V.Ossietzky-Str. Eichenallee n str. you must first get to Potsdam. Ne uen 692 en Am Ga B273 Po tsdam er Str. rgstr s PA R K S A N S S O U C I 5 tr.60€ ($2). Weinbe Hauptallee lallee e 1 Heg 3 Jägera 2 Sc Friedrich-Ebert-Str. and you’ll almost immediately come to a flight of stairs leading up to the palace.25 km 0. Lindenavenue Be konomieweg Ökonomieweg Lennéstr. . 608 ls-Str. 694 tr.

spend some time wandering through the magnificent landscaped gardens with their bevy of historic buildings. which you see on a tour that lasts about 45 minutes. 1712–1786) built in Potsdam a “small” country palace where he could retire sans souci (without a care) and indulge his passions for music.m.m. and inexpensive guidebooks for both the town and the palace are available at the Potsdam tourist information office in the Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (% 0331/270-9051. and you must ask for them. leafy. Discovering the top attractions Potsdam didn’t gain true importance until the “Great Elector” Friedrich Wilhelm (1620–1688) chose the lovely.170 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding tourist information Maps.) and on Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. From then on.25) for children and students. lakey area to be his second seat of residence outside Berlin. Sanssouci was built between 1745 and 1747 as Frederick’s summerhouse. (in winter. discuss weighty matters with French philosopher Voltaire. You find another tourist office at Am Neuen Markt 1 (% 0331/275-580).m.m. Potsdam was a royal hangout. you may have to wait for a much later tour. open Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.). Friedrich II (called Frederick the Great. and philosophy. Schloss (Palace) Sanssouci (% 0331/969-4190) is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. If you don’t arrive early. www. a place where he could let his wig down. and 5€ ($6. All kinds of rococo treasures fill the palace. You can see the palace only on a guided tour costing 8€ ($10) for adults. Your ticket tells you what time you can enter the palace to begin your guided tour. you’re required to don huge felt slippers so you don’t scuff the floors.potsdam. One of the greatest and most beautiful examples of European rococo. In short.m. All the buildings listed here are signposted so you won’t get lost on the grounds. Either before or after your tour.m. (Nov–Mar to 4 p. A timed-entry system is in effect at Sanssouci. To escape the rigors of Berlin court life. and make music with composer Carl Philip Emanuel Bach. to 4 (Nov–Mar from 10 a.m. brochures. and his planning still is evident in the restored vineyard terraces and the area immediately around the palace. but information sheets in English are available from the guide. to 5 p.m. The tour is given only in German. Waits in summer months can be up to three hours long. poetry. Sanssouci was a summer resort for an enlightened monarch. Sat–Sun until 2 p. to 8 p. Fred the Great created the original design for the grounds. .m.). open daily from 9 a. Before setting off on the tour. Your tour time is printed on your ticket. to 6 p.m.

was completed in 1769 and used by the Hohenzollern royal family. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. to 5 p.m.). .m. Admission is 2€ ($2.m. inexpensive bite at the Biergarten kiosk (no phone. west of the palace. You can eat for under 4€ ($5) and sit at outdoor tables. The Orangerie is open mid-May to midOctober. The food is basic wursts with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad). (closed Thurs).m. More interesting are the rooms used for the Potsdam Conference.50). The gallery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. % 0331/969-4255).m. including U. you can visit the private rooms used by Crown Prince Wilhelm and Princess Cecelie. to 5 p.m. ߜ Built to look like an English country manor.m.m. and Russian dictator Joseph Stalin.) across the road behind the palace of Sanssouci. you can grab a quick. Admission is 3€ ($3.m.m. open May–Sept daily 10 a. you find the fancier Mövenpick Restaurant “Am Windmühle.S. The privileged classes would retire here to drink a new beverage called tea. on the eastern side of the palace grounds. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. Ornamental “Oriental” buildings like this were all the rage in 18th-century Europe. contains copies of paintings by Raphael and features ornately decorated salons. to 5 p. On a guided tour. to 5 p. the largest building in Sanssouci park.). This building is not open to the public. In the adjacent pavilion.).Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin 171 ߜ The Bildergalerie (Picture Gallery.m. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. ߜ The mid-19th-century Orangerie (% 0331/969-4280). % 0331/969-4200) was a royal residence from 1917 until 1945.m. % 0331/969-4181). was completed in 1763 and displays a collection of works from the Italian Renaissance and baroque eras. 10 a. Admission is 8€ ($10) for a grand tour of all the rooms. ߜ The Neues Palais (New Palace. ߜ The Chinesische Teehaus (Chinese Teahouse) is a little gem of a rococo building resembling a pagoda.” where you can order a complete meal (open year-round daily 10 a.–6 p.m. The palace is open Saturday through Thursday from 9 a.m. At the end of WWII. to 5 p.75). Dining at Sanssouci From May through September.m.). the palace was used as headquarters for the Potsdam Conference attended by the heads of the Allied powers. President Harry Truman. Admission for the guided tour is 8€ ($10). Inside you see rococo rooms filled with paintings and antiques. Now the palace serves as a hotel and conference center. The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. (Nov–Mar until 4 p. Schloss Cecilienhof (Cecilienhof Palace.

m.m. are located in the Hauptbahnhof (U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof).m. use 030. See also “Telephone” later in this list and in the appendix.m. and on Sunday from 10 a.m. and Saturday 10 a. Irish. and U. to 9 p. to 7 p. shops stay open until 4 or 6 p.m. in Neue Kranzler Eck at Ku-Damm and Joachimstaler Strasse (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). open Monday through Friday 9 a. stores are generally not open on Sunday. to 2 p. dial % 112.m. to 6 or 6:30 p.m. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse).m. to 2 p.m. and Saturday 10 a. Information The main tourist information centers.K. In an emergency. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number.m. in the south wing of the Brandenburg Gate (U-/S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz or Unter den Linden) and under the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) at . Except in the train stations. Two convenient bank branches with 24-hour ATM service are Deutsche Bank at Wittenbergplatz (U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz) and Dresdner Bank at Kurfürstendamm 237 (U-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). to 6 p. % 01804/ 2255-2362.. call % 030/8900-4333. To report a fire or to summon an ambulance. call % 030/31-00-31 (24 hours).. for a per-minute land-line telephone fee. Currency Exchange The currency exchange offices in the Hauptbahnhof and Bahnhof Zoo are open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. called BERLIN infostores. Berlin phone numbers may have from five to eight digits.m. you can locate a doctor through Call a Doc. open Monday through Friday 9 a. Emergencies To call the police. and Friedrichstrasse 172 (% 030/201-7400.172 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Fast Facts: Berlin American Express American Express has two main offices: Bayreutherstrasse 37–38 (% 030/21476292. dial % 110. to 7 p. for an emergency dentist. For an emergency doctor. If you’re calling within Berlin.m.m. to 1 or 3 p. Dentists and Doctors You’ll find a list of doctors and specialists in the Berlin Yellow Pages or. Embassies and Consulates See the appendix for the addresses of the Australian.m. Hospitals Hotel employees are familiar with the location of the nearest hospital emergency room. the first Saturday of the month. Canadian. to 1 p. ATMs You find ATMs all across Berlin. Some stores stay open late on Thursday (usually until 8:30 p.m. call % 112 for an ambulance. and Saturday from 9 a.m. Use 30 whenever you’re calling Berlin from outside Germany. You can also exchange money at American Express (see the beginning of this list for addresses).m.m. South African. U. If you’re within Germany but not in Berlin. Business Hours Most banks are open Monday through Friday 9 a. embassies and consulates. On langer Samstag (longer Saturday).m.S. Country Code and City Code The city code for Berlin is 30. Most other businesses and stores are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10 a. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).).

Taxis You can hail taxis along Berlin’s major streets. Most have instructions in English. most accept only Telefonkarte (telephone cards). available at most newsstands. go to Europa–Apotheke. www. if there is an attendant. which list events around the city. branch locations are in the Sony Center and Karl-Marx-Strasse provides U-Bahn information (% 030/19449) and S-Bahn information (% 030/2974-3333) daily from 6 a.m. easyeverything. Some require 0. use common sense and caution when you’re in a crowded public area. For more. dial % 110. Pharmacies If you need a pharmacy (Apotheke. until noon. go to the nearest one and look for a sign in the window giving the address of the nearest pharmacy with nighttime hours (such postings are required by law). Maps The most detailed Berlin map with a complete street index is the fold-out Falk plan. Saturday 8 a. U-/S-Bahn: Kurfürstendamm). Tauentzienstrasse 9–12 (% 030/261-4142. use a call box marked Inlands und Auslandsgespräche. The same hours . In Mitte. to 10 p. offering over 300 terminals. is the Dorotheenstadtische Apotheke. Newspapers and Magazines Newsstands carry Zitty and BerlinProgramm. As in any large metropolis. To make an international call. For hours and other information about each office. to midnight. to 6 p. For a centrally located pharmacy. see Chapter 11. in others..m.bvg.S. You can also make long-distance calls from post offices. Safety Berlin is safer than most large U. a few steps from Unter den Linden. located near the Europa Center.m. Telephones Finding a coin-operated telephone in Berlin is now rare. Post Office The main post office at Joachimstaler Strasse 7 (% 030/8870-8611.50€ to get in through a turnstile.20€ as you depart. ah-potay-kuh) at night. Friedrichstrasse 154 (% 030/204-4817. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz). Many phones also accept Visa cards. Internet Access One of Berlin’s largest Internet cafes is EasyEverything. cities.m. U-/S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten) is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a. Taxes See the appendix for details.m. see the appendix. you are expected to leave 0. Transit Assistance The Transit Authority (BVG. Sunday and holidays from 10 a.m. Taxis with illuminated roof signs are available. Single women need to avoid the dimly lit streets in Kreuzberg at night. to midnight.m. Kurfürstendamm 224 (www. Restrooms You find public facilities throughout Berlin and at all train terminals. For more about fares and where to call for a taxi. Police To call the police.Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Alexanderplatz (S-Bahn: U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse). which you can purchase in 6€ and 25€ ($7. 173 Regular post office hours are Monday through Friday 8 a. check out Chapter 11.50 and $31) denominations at any post office or news vendor.

berlin-tourist-information. www.174 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany apply to the BVG information kiosk outside Bahnhof Zoo. and more. .de.zitty. you find information in English about events. and www. shopping. nightlife. At these de. Web Sites The best overall Web sites for tourist information on Berlin are www. where you can buy tickets and obtain a free transit Weather You can check the weather online before you go at

A sense of the vast northern seas permeates the city. which also is one of Germany’s 16 federal states. Hamburg and Lübeck still retain the term Hansestadt (Hanseatic City) in their official titles. even during the summer. trade. Don’t expect dry. watery landscape that spreads out over 754 sq. the most powerful commercial network in Europe. Everyone carries away a different impression of this bustling. For others. If you’re traveling in the north. Hamburg: Germany’s Gateway to the World Hamburg. and lakes. often gray and misty. sunny weather in northern Germany at any time of the year.) The terrain is characteristic of northern Germany: low. an umbrella. prosperous city. has a flat. Hamburg. and sweater probably will come in handy. and commerce. Bremen. Hamburg is sin-city . but also densely green and filled with trees. (See the “Hamburg” map in this chapter. In fact. marshlands. Hansa cities formed trade affiliations that linked northern Germany to the eastern Baltic regions and Scandinavia. and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the port city of Hamburg ᮣ Touring the ancient city of Bremen ᮣ Exploring medieval Lübeck T his chapter covers three cities in northern Germany with long histories of seafaring. Some find Hamburg to be a bit smug. and Bremen were important members of the Hanseatic League.Chapter 13 Hamburg. located on the Elbe River about 100km (62 miles) from the North Sea. a city of “high culture” and elegance and obsessed with making money. even haughty. km (294 sq. raincoat. miles). In medieval times. windswept. Lübeck.

176 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg ACCOMMODATIONS Aussen Alster 28 Hamburg Marriott 15 Hotel Hafen Hamburg 6 Hotel Side 14 Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg 26 Park Hyatt Hamburg 22 Pension Helga Schmidt 25 Wedina 27 DINING Apples Restaurant 22 Cremon Weinkeller 17 Die Rösterei 23 Eisenstein 3 Fischküche Karin Brahm 18 Le Paquebot 20 Melange 6 Ratsweinkeller Hamburg 19 Voltaire Bistro 2 ATTRACTIONS R2 Alster Lake 29 Erotic Art Museum 4 Hafen (Harbor) 5 Hamburger Kunsthalle 24 Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte Strese9 mann strass Rathaus 16 e Reeperbahn 8 4 St.-PauliLandungsbrücken 5 asse Schaarsteinweg Blei 6 tin ar rM the se Lu tras S chen 7 trasse fleet Stras s e au s see Bud ape Ka ise ster stra - ra sse ss e ig-Erh ard-S . Jacobikirche 21 e ss St. Michaelis a7 str Tierpark Hagenbeck 1 ch ba Wallringpark: Alter Botanischer Garten 13 Grosse Wallanlagen 10 Kleine Wallanlagen 11 Planten und Blomen 12 Keiler 1 HOHELUFT Le hm w eg Ho he g R2 or nd r fe we Jungfrauenthal luf tch au sse G E Hamburg Berlin NY Frankfurt M A R Munich pe ism c ar ks tr se as Ep e Innocentiapark B HARVESTEHUDE Werder- Sc asse hla EIMSBÜTTEL Bu nde sstr nk re ye Hallerstrasse ee Be sse Ludw igErha S t r a sr d se Karolinenstr kort stra Al t on asse r ae St ra ss e SternschanzenHeinrichpark HertzTurm Re str ntz as else Planten un Blomen 12 Alter Botanischer Garten Har Feldstrasse 13 Kleine Wallanlagen -Fock rch 11 Go Ha u 4 sse e cis 2 3 ch Heiligengeistfeld au 10 Gla Grosse Wallanlagen ll Gr ilh elm ps all im wa ind am Sc hl elh r-W F r u c h t a ll e e S chä fer k um St Gros Freih se eit Thadenstrasse erL o u ise-S c h r ö d sse Stra Simon -von- Utrecht-Strasse ALTONA 4 ST. PAULI Reepe rbahn 8 Ludw Ho sse 9 lst Schom en of e p Gri nde lalle Eim sbü tte l er Ch burgstra Palmaille Fischmarkt aar tor G r o s s e Elbes t r ass e Elbe Baumwall Alst Sch erfl König Frie eet strass e se ras hst dric Herbert- tr ocht-S hard-N strasse Bern St.

Petri Kirche 19 sse asse gstr sse ldin a Spa nalstr a rdk No Ham me rbr ALTSTADT Do ms 17 e Dov nfle Ob er brü baum cke - Ost-West-Strasse Katharinenstrasse et Am sin B Ba an nks cks tra 18 Kajen stra a sse 0 0 s ss se e 0. Bremen.25 mi Bro or okt kai Information i 0.25 km Ha St mbu ra r ss ge e r Le rc he nf eld Bellevue Be lle Sie vu rich e Herderstrasse stra sse Be et ho n ve str as se He rbe rt-W eic hm ann -St W in te rh ud er W eg Harvest ras Sc h lweg ön huder Weg lend amm er ck e be ss Lü stra Ju ng fe rn sti eg Po sts tra en sse 75 Nag elsw eg ook stra sse N . GEORG Hansaplatz S in te da m m 15 CAB asse Str Ba lin da m m Binnenalster Hauptbahnhof öncke 22 M 23 21 22 se as t Steinstr Speersor i Adena K i Ble che nfl eet 20 sse bergstra e ueralle ee r-All ache m u h c S t r u tra M 16 Börse st er g ö n c ke b r. and Lübeck 177 Fer Hochallee strasse nsic ht Gell Hans-H en n erts se tras -W ahn y-J eg BARMBEK Weide strasse Hallerstras Rothenbaumchaussee se Mitte Alsterpark PÖSSELDORF Milchst rasse UHLENHORST se 5 da eA uss i m ch t ds bu m er ROTHERBAUM Aussenalster lweg en wi k HOHENFELDE Müh Mitte hw an M un rg 29 er Sc Alst Th.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Matt Holzb nde Sa ra ss e St.-HeussPlatz GustavMahler-Park eruf Se ch sli ng K Ko op pp e ls Wall 14 Ken ne dyb rücke L Lo om mb ba arrd ds sb brrü üc ck ke e An de 27 tra asss se rA l r ste 28 sp fo rte e BORGFELDE lal e W rass st 26 25 24 Hachmannplatz ST.

call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) at % 11861. Intriguing Hamburg is worth a day or two of your time. Hachmannplatz 10 (% 040/39183046). not under. this city makes a good headquarters.50€ ($3. The terminal contains a tourist information office (% 040/3005-1300) in the arrivals area of terminals 1 and 2 (open daily 5:30 a.m. a street where sex is sold overthe-counter. the trip time is 21⁄2 hours. The one-way fare is 5. Hamburg has train connections with all major German and European cities. the journey takes about 25 minutes.m.m. and car. With its giant port and strongly international flair. Much of the city was destroyed during World War II (WWII).10) for children younger than 12. and other independent currency-exchange services and ATMs.). Because of the Elbe and two enormous inner-city lakes. you’re as much aware of water as land — Hamburg has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined.) to the city’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station). depending on traffic.m.20€ ($6. an array of easily identified banks with currency-exchange windows. By train Hamburg has two major rail stations.50) for adults and 2.airport. Paul-Baumer-Platz 1–3 (% 040/50750. An S-Bahn line connects the two stations. Most trains arrive at the centrally located Hamburg Hauptbahnhof.–11 p. Hamburg has a huge. The bus runs every 15 to 20 minutes (5 a. which explains why you find historic buildings standing side by side with steel-and-glass structures.178 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany incarnate. horn-blaring port and sedate late-19th-century neighborhoods. By plane Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of the city center is Hamburg Airport. The easiest way to get into the city is by the Airport Express bus. Most major European cities have direct flights to Hamburg. If you want to explore northern Germany. A taxi from the airport to the city costs about 20€ ($25) and takes about 30 minutes. For train information. Germans often call it their “gateway to the world. bustling.” Getting there Hamburg is the largest city in northern Germany and is easy to reach by train. and then make a second stop at Hamburg-Altona (% 040/39182387) in the western part of the city. www. which stops in front of terminals 1 and 4. land of the lurid Reeperbahn. Taxi stands are in front of all the–9:20 p. . From Berlin. plane.

Alsterfleet and Bleichenfleet. Taking a bus tour A guided bus tour is the best way to get a feel for Hamburg and its various neighborhoods and special areas. hamburg.-Pauli-Landungsbrü departs every 30 minutes from 9:30 a. Pösseldorf. Another good online source of information is www. Cost is 18€ ($22) for adults. a lake rimmed by Hamburg’s most significant buildings. from May through October and includes a visit to the St. Cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. Flanking the Binnenalster on the south is the Jungfernstieg. the Lombardsbrücke and the Kennedybrücke. and Lübeck 179 By car The A1 Autobahn reaches Hamburg from the south and in the main train station near the main entrance. the A23 from the northwest.m. to 6 p. and the A24 from the east. Cost. the city’s commercial and shopping district. Two canals. double-decker buses depart Saturday and Sunday from April through October at 2 p. The 90-minute Top Tour (www. The three-hour “Lights of Hamburg” tour (www.. Pauli Reeperbahn district. to 9 p. Finding information Tourismus-Zentrale Hamburg operates the tourist information office (% 040/ starts at 8 p.m. divide the Alster into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster). The office is open daily from 8 a. to 5 p. Kirchenallee entrance. In the harbor area.-PauliLandungsbrücken between piers 4 and is 30€ ($37). including a drink. 7€ ($9) for children up to 14. is a tree-filled residential district with many fine 19th-century villas and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings.m.Chapter 13: Hamburg. November through March 10 a. www. Hamburg’s most vital artery and shopping district. Tickets for all tours are available on the bus and all tours have live commentary in English.m. and can book a hotel room for you for a 4€ ($5) fee. northwest of Aussenalster. Two bridges. Central Hamburg surrounds the Bremen.m. Orienting yourself The Hauptbahnhof is located on the eastern fringe of central Hamburg. A word to the wise: Park your car and use public transportation in this busy city. which lasts 2 hours and 30 minutes and includes towns along the Elbe River. to 6 p. the A7 from the north and south. 6€ ($7.50) for children. (hourly in winter). lichter-tour.m. This office is open April through October daily from 8 a. Hamburg Stadt Rundfahrt (% 040/792-8979) offers the Elbe Tour. channeling water from the .de. run south from Binnenalster.m. you find tourist information (% 040/3005-1300) at the St. from the St. Daily tours on double-decker buses operated by Hamburger Stadtrundfahrten (% 040/641-3731) leave from the main train station.

The HamburgCard is good for travel on all public transport. the world’s seventh-largest harbor. formerly a city in its own right. The Port (Hafen) of Hamburg. A single one-way fare for both U-Bahn and bus costs 2. but buses offer a good alternative and enable you to see more of the city. Many of Hamburg’s finest hotels and restaurants cluster around the Binnenalster and the Rathaus (City Hall). which is the same for both U-Bahn and bus.50€ ($3) within Greater Hamburg. The Altona neighborhood is a great place to explore or have dinner. www. admission to 11 Hamburg museums. Taxi meters begin at 2€ ($2. Getting around Hamburg Hamburg is not a compact city and can’t be easily covered on foot.” earlier in this chapter). The fare. sex shows. A one-day card costs 7. call % 040/441-011 or 040/666-666. com) operates the U-Bahn (subway). The U-Bahn (subway) and buses Hamburg’s U-Bahn serves the entire central area and connects with the S-Bahn light-rail trains in the suburbs. The Reeperbahn. S-Bahn (light rail).hvv. the old sailor’s quarter that became the center of Hamburg nightlife. discos.75) for one adult and up to three children under 15. guided tours of the port. stretches for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River. a famous neon-lit boulevard with cafes. To see everything of interest.180 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Alster to the Elbe. buses. Pauli district. bisects St. Taxis For a taxi. The western district of Altona. south of Central Hamburg and the Alster. is the scene of Hamburg’s famous Fischmarkt (fish market). % 040/19449. A-Bahn (commuter rail). bars. Buy your ticket from the bus driver or from automatic vending machines at U-Bahn stations and bus stops. depends on how far you travel. You can buy the card at the tourist information offices (see “Finding information.55€ ($1.25) for an adult and includes fare for up to three children traveling with an adult. The U-Bahn is the fastest means of getting around.50) and rise 1. which takes place at dawn every Sunday. and harbor ferries. and music halls. A tageskarte (day ticket) for unlimited use of public transportation costs 5.80€ ($9. Hamburger Verkehrsverbund (HVV. and discounts on city tours. and lake cruises. is located northwest of the river. A three-day card costs 17€ ($22) for one adult and up to three children. now integrated into Greater Hamburg. .90) per kilometer.80€ ($7. a short distance to the south. Pauli. you have to depend on public transportation or taxis. The St.

Mön. Sierichstr. Hasselbrook Ritterstr. Trabrennbahn Rübenkamp Farmsen Rahlstedt Fuhlsbüttel Klein Borstel Meinendorfer Weg Wellingsbüttel S1 Poppenbüttel Buchenkamp Volksdorf Ahrensburg West Ahrensburg Ahrensburg Ost. Bremen. Halstenbek Krupunder S21 Hagensbeck Tierpark Niendorf Markt Eidelstedt Ost Hagendeel Elbgaustraße A1 Eidelstedt Stellingen Wedel Rissen Iserbrook Emilienstr. Alsterdorf Lattenkamp U2 Alte Wöhr Habichtstr. Sta. Bilstedt Steinfurther Allee Rothenburgsort Mümmelmannsberg U3 Tiefstack Veddel Bilwerder-Moorfleet Wilhelmsberg Lübecker Str. Barmbek Wandsbeck Ost Alter Teichweg Eppendorfer Baum Borgweg U3 Friedrichsberg HoheDehnhaide Straßburger Straße Klosterstern luttHamburger Str. Altona Sternschanze Feidstraße Königstr. Wandsbek-Gartenstedt Kellinghusenstr.Neumünster Ulzberg Süd Ulzburg Süd A2 Richtweg U1 Ohlstedt Lübeck Garstedt Ochsenzoll Hoisbüttel Buckhorn Langenhorn Nord Langenhorn Markt U2 Fuhlsbüttel Nord Hohenneichen Kornweg Berne Ohlsdorf Sengelmannstr. Pauli Landungsbrücken Messehallen Gän. Legienstr. Rauhes Haus Markenstr. Sülldorf Hochkamp Diebsteich Othmarschen S1 Blankenese Klein Flottbek Bahrenfeld S-Bahn U-Bahn Hudtwaickerstr. Wartenau Lohmühlenstr. Messberg 181 Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn S3 Neuwiedenthal . Reeperbahn St. Jungfernstieg Rödingsmarkt Rathaus Neugraben Heimfeld Harburg Rathaus Harburg Bremen Hanover Hammerbrook Hauptbahnhof Steinstr. Baumwall Dammtor Step. Wandsbek Markt brucke Hallerstr. Langenfelde Osterstr. Christuskirche Lutterothstr. Großhansdorf Schmalenbeck Kiekut Kiwittsmoor U1 Norderstedt Mitte A1 Hasioh Bönningstedt Elmshorn Niendorf Nord Schippelsweg Burgwedel S3 Pinneberg Schnelsen Thesdorf Joachim-Mähl-Str. Mundsburg Wandsbeker Chaussee Schlump Wandsbek Uhlandstr. Landwehr Hammerkirche Horner Rennbahn Bergstr. Saarlandstr. Berliner Tor Mittierer Landweg Allermöhe Netteinburg Wohltorf Reinbek Aumühle S21 Schwerin Berlin Single track section AKN Line DB Line Chapter 13: Hamburg. and Lübeck Bergedorf Buxtehude Stade Holstenstr.

The hotel has a fitness center with pool and sauna and can arrange baby-sitting. MC. AE. % 040/241-557.” earlier in this chapter). The rooms vary . U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk east on Steindamm and west on Stiftstrasse. See map p. offers rooms with panoramic views of the river and The 27 midsize rooms are minimalist in terms of décor but very comfortable and meticulously maintained. The bathrooms are small with shower-tub combinations. 20354 Hamburg. plus an intimate. wine bars. Hotel Hafen Hamburg $ –$$$ St. or 040/ 35050. a fashionable area filled with shops. especially in the center of the city. See Chapter 22 for details on the Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg ($$$$). Schmilinskystrasse 11. and today consists of three adjacent buildings with a total of 255 rooms. The 227 rooms are priced according to size and degree of luxury. stylish hotel in a late-19th-century building sits on a quiet residential street near the Aussenalster lake. Hamburg Marriott $$$$ Central Hamburg This large. If you arrive without a room. 176. 20099 Hamburg. Rates include buffet breakfast. www. Rates include breakfast.aussen-alster. which becomes Schmilinskystrasse). the Schmilinsky. well-regarded restaurant.S. the hotel features an array of business-oriented in-room amenities. The well-done bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. traditionally styled hotel is near the Hanse Viertel. See map p. V. You will usually find special weekend rates and promotional offers on the hotel Web site.182 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Staying in Hamburg Hamburg is an expensive city with plenty of first-class hotels and a limited number of budget accommodations. You also find hotel-booking desks at the airport. Hamburg’s tourist information office in the main train station can help you find accommodations (see “Finding information. V. MC. The hotel can arrange baby-sitting. DC. and restaurants. You find an onsite sauna and solarium. www. ABC Strasse 52. Rates: 199€–279€ ($248–$349) double. 176. Rates: 129€–155€ ($161–$194) double. % 800/228-9290 in the U. Geared toward business travelers. DC. Fax: 040/3505-1777. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk south on ABC Strasse). originally built in the mid 19th century as a home for sailors. Aussen Alster $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This small. AE. The building was restored and converted into a hotel in 1979. Pauli/Harbor area This Hamburg landmark. Fax: 040/2803231.

Breakfast: 18€ ($22). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). 17-room pension sits right across the street from the superdeluxe Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg (Chapter 22) and costs a fraction of the price. DC. U-Bahn: Gänsemarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Dammtorstrasse and west on Drehbahn). the 178 good-sized rooms are quiet and comfortable. the Hyatt occupies a former trading house from 1912 that was transformed into a hotel in 1998. The third and fourth floors are nonsmoking. U-/S-Bahn: was built in Rates: 209€–310€ ($261–$387) A terrace on the eighth floor opens onto panoramic views of Hamburg. Lots of wood and warm-toned fabrics adorn the 252 spacious rooms. % 040/311-130. The neighboring ship-shaped Hotel Residenz. AE. Rates: 100€–200€ ($125–$250) double. Hotel Side takes high design to new AE. Hotel Side $$$$ Central Hamburg Opened in the spring of 2001. and Lübeck 183 in size. MC. the largest pool in Hamburg. The luxurious bathrooms have a tub-shower combination. But the double rooms are of a decent size and have an old-fashioned comfort of their own. Pension Helga Schmidt $ Central Hamburg This small. all have wellequipped bathrooms with a shower-tub combination. Fax: 040/31113755.” later in this chapter). % 040/3332-1234. See map p. others have showers . V. 176. MC. glowing colors and contemporary furniture placed as carefully as sculptures. www. and a fine-dining restaurant called Apples (see “Dining in Hamburg. 20459 Hamburg. Bremen. See map p. You won’t find anything fancy here. A stark white and steel high-tech minimalism is offset by dramatic. Amenities include a health club with pool. AE. traditional. See map p. Breakfast: 22€ ($27).side-hamburg. 176. Drehbahn 49. 20095 Seewartenstrasse 9. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. Fax: 40/ 3332-1235. MC. Rates: 190€–265€ ($237–$295). Breakfast: 13€ ($16). www. The large bathrooms have a separate area for Japanese-style soaking tubs.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (then a 7minute walk north through the small park outside the station to Seewartenstrasse). DC. Fax: 40/3099-9399. but staying here is definitely a memorable experience.Chapter 13: Hamburg. the Hafen’s modern sister hotel. Built around a central atrium. You may find a bit of attitude. but most are large with updated modern furnishings. Some rooms have private bathrooms with showers. 176.hotel-hamburg. Park Hyatt Hamburg $$$$ Central Hamburg One of the most beautifully designed hotels in Hamburg. % 40/309-990. This full-service hotel has virtually every amenity you can imagine. V. V. www. DC. 20354 Hamburg.

Rates: 58€ ($72) double without bathroom. and eel (Aalsuppe.t-online. and 6–11 p. On the menus of the city’s many fish restaurants.–2:30 p. you can enjoy breakfast in the privacy of your room. V. shrimp. organically grown produce. plaice. corned beef.m. DC. Gurlittstrasse 23. onions. The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. The place is hip without being pretentious. Traditional meat dishes include Stubenküchen (hamburger steak) and Labskaus — made with beer. or oven-roasted duck. The smallish bathrooms have a shower-tub combination. or eel soup. Rates: 108€–165€ ($135–$206) double. Fax: 040/280-3894. and yellow). Dining in Hamburg It shouldn’t come as any surprise that most of Hamburg’s traditional cuisine comes from the sea. Rote Grütze. As a main course. and to reach rooms on the third floor. The menu. Reservations required. Come here for an elegant evening out. blue. is a famous Hamburg dish). Rate includes breakfast. 176. Rates include buffet breakfast. which changes according to seasonal availability. Apples is the showcase restaurant of the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Open: Daily 6:30 a. 20099 Hamburg. potatoes. AE. V. 176.m. % 040/280-83-90. is a compote of red fruits served with vanilla ice cream or cream. See map p.m. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north on Holzdamm). In the morning.184 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany only and you share a bathroom. DC. MC. Apples Restaurant $$$ –$$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL Centered around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven. a local dessert specialty. % 040/33321234. They range in size from small to medium and are individually decorated with modern furnishings. Fresh specials of the day also are available. See map p. char-grilled turbot and peppers. . turbot. saddle of pork. See map p. AE. % 040/280-8900. Appetizers may include ostrich carpaccio or red curry soup. you may find grilled lobster. Wedina $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg This recently remodeled hotel is in three different buildings painted three different colors (red. www. salmon. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk west across Steintor Wall to Bugenhagenstrasse). In the Park Hyatt Hamburg. you usually find lobster. V. and pickle — which is a hearty. Fax: 040/243-705. protein-packed dish that sailors and dockworkers www. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk north along Koppel Strasse to Gurlittstrasse).de. Holzdamm 14. sole. Main courses: 23€–31€ ($29–$39). DC. Tuscan-style garden. features fresh. AE. fresh oysters. 20099 Hamburg. Pancakes (Pfannkuchen) with cranberries or other fruit toppings are popular. MC. 68€ ($85) double with bathroom. you have to climb 55 steps. Bugenhagenstrasse 8. fixedprice menu 50€ ($62).wedina. Most of the 42 rooms open onto a small. herring. 176.

with a minimum of fuss. Main courses: 9€–12€ ($11–15). and bread and butter. and 6 p. Typical offerings include goulash with noodles. % 040/3904-606. cheese. From the below-street-level location.50) per dish. Cremon 33–34. Friedensallee 9. % 040/362-190.m. Mönckebergstrasse 7. No credit cards. meat. Bremen. or afternoon coffee.50€ ($6. and croissants. For breakfast. Breakfast: 3. and Italy.25–$9. this casual cafe is a good place to stop for breakfast. and the service is no-nonsense. See map p. includes specialties from Thailand.40–$11). so you can get a cappuccino with your afternoon Kuchen (cake). Japan (including sushi and sashimi). housed in a former tram station. Luncheon offerings usually include chicken and fish dishes plus daily specials and several different salads. See map p.Chapter 13: Hamburg. fixed-price dinner 26€ ($32). Main courses: 5€–7. Open: Mon–Fri 11 a. Die Rösterei $ Central Hamburg LIGHT MEALS/BREAKFAST/DESSERTS Located in the shopping arcade attached to the Park Hyatt hotel. The restaurant serves four or five hot dishes of fish and meat buffet-style at lunchtime. traditional versions of North German cuisine. jacket potatoes with sour cream and crab or other fillings.m.. a platter with crab. southern France. 176. fixedprice lunch 14€ ($17). Eisenstein $$ –$$$ Altona INTERNATIONAL The menu in this hip Altona restaurant. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. % 040/3039-3735. and Lübeck Cremon Weinkeller $ Harbor area NORTH GERMAN 185 If you want to eat lunch with the locals. Fischküche Karin Brahm $$ –$$$ Harbor area SEAFOOD This pleasant fish restaurant in a modern building has a bright dining room and outdoor tables. to midnight. See map p. MC. Main courses: 8€–26€ ($10–$32).m. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk east on Mönckebergstrasse).m.50€–9€ ($4. salmon. and fresh. which becomes Friedensallee). and the Cremonteller.–9 p.m.m. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 10-minute walk east on Kajen and north on Cremons). The cafe roasts its own coffee beans. The food is robust. 176. No credit cards.–9 p. Reservations recommended. . S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and northwest on Bahrenstrasse. this barrestaurant is a good place to try. Popular offerings include breast of duck with caramelized cherries. cold cuts.m. sausages. homemade pastas. you can order eggs. a cold buffet is available in the evening.–10 p. and saltimbocca. V. a light lunch. particularly fresh Atlantic fish. you can see the Nikolaifleet canal from the windows. Open: Daily noon to 3 p.m. Sun 10 a. You can eat on the balcony overlooking the shops or in the wood-paneled dining room. 176.

AE.186 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The menu changes all the time. MC. U-Bahn: Baumwall (then a 3-minute walk west to Kajen). and breast of chicken with basil and mushrooms. DC. % 040/364-153. Main courses: 11€–15€ ($14–$18). you may try the avocado salad with herring or some crostini. U-Bahn: Rathaus (then a 3-minute walk south on Grosse Johannisstrasse). Most of the young wait staff speak English. . Sun 5:30 p. depending on the catch of the day. Sat 6 p. Reservations recommended. See map p. you can choose from other dishes such as chicken breast in a green rice crust or turkey curry.–6 p. Italian and modern German.. the Ratsweinkeller Hamburg has high. % 040/3750-3434. MC. Open: Mon–Fri noon to midnight. or codfish with potatoes and onion. If you don’t like fish. vaulted ceilings. Main courses: 17€–25€ ($21–$31). Reservations recommended. Kajen 12. the main courses are more than enough.m. Don’t bother with appetizers. zander filet with creamy sauerkraut. and large stained-glass windows. Grosse Johannisstrasse 2. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk across Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz).–2 a. See map p. but on a nice day nab a table outside). Neuer Wall 31 (in the Neuen Alsterarkaden). Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. Le Paquebot $$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL In warm weather. I like it because you can order something as simple as a salad but they also have good daily specials. wood-paneled columns. % 040/326-519.) The menu.–2 a.m. 176. AE. UBahn: Jungfernstieg (then a 5-minute walk north along Neuer Wall to Schleuseenbrücke). (Indoor dining is available yearround.m. too. flounder with spaghetti and lemon-butter sauce. AE. MC. Choices may include different kinds of clear or creamy fish soup. 176. or the Hamburg crab soup. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 70. And the outside tables are great for people-watching.m. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19).m. this cafe/bistro/bar is a chic but casual spot to stop for lunch or an early dinner (you can eat inside. Or. Ratsweinkeller Hamburg $$ –$$$ Central Hamburg HAMBURG/INTERNATIONAL In business since 1896. an international mix of French. V. you can sit outside on the square and enjoy a good meal at this quietly stylish restaurant and bar. V. herring filets on black bread with onions. See map p. 176. step up to the herring buffet featuring many different condiments and sauces. Try the halibut steak in curry sauce. Main courses typically include pasta offerings such as tagliatelle with ragout. changes daily.m. % 040/365-631. Open: Daily 8 a. Melange $ –$$$ Central Hamburg INTERNATIONAL With tables tucked along the canal under the fancy shopping arcade that lines the Alsterfleet canal (across from the Rathaus). a mixed fish platter. V. to midnight. For starters. 176. the fresh sole.m. See map p.

S-Bahn: Altona (then a 10-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse and north on Bahrenstrasse.m. and German cuisine. and the Aussenalster. Damming the meandering Alster River created the lake in 1235. MC. Sightseeing usually centers on the giant harbor and picturesque Alster Lake. scampi. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. fixed-price menus 30€–45€ ($37–$56). Voltaire also has a good wine list and live jazz on most evenings. DC. The Alster consists of the Binnenalster. including a windjammer parade. U-Bahn: Hallerstrasse (then a 10-minute walk east on Hallerstrasse to the park). % 040/397-004. V. with coq au vin and spaghetti with mushroom sauce available every day. Italian. Closed holidays. You also find many different salad choices. Alsterpark.m. Exploring Hamburg Surprisingly enough. and panoramic views of the Hamburg skyline. No credit cards. The menu borrows from French. Friedensalle 14–16. 176. and canoes ply the waters of this lake that forms the watery heart of central Hamburg.m. Walking paths and parkland surround the 7km (4 miles) of shoreline. Main courses: 9€–14€ ($11–$17).. and hundreds of booths. Hafen (Harbor) Hamburg is probably most famous for its busy harbor. a smaller.m. Hamburg is not a city with many world-class cultural attractions. features beautiful trees. flower gardens. fireworks. rabbit with sweet-and-sour sauce.–10:30 p. Voltaire Bistro $$ Altona INTERNATIONAL This pleasant. Alster Lake Sailboats. The city still commemorates the event every year in early May with three days of huge harborside celebrations. The dining room is a high-ceilinged brick-walled room with big windows and a bistrolike atmosphere. and herring. wild duck with plum sauce.m. Open: Daily 6 p.m. Sun 11 a. one of the largest in the world. Its official history dates back to 1189. which covers 175 acres on the northwest banks. reasonably priced restaurant is across from Eisenstein (see the listing earlier in this section) in the popular Altona area. See map p. See map p. windsurfers. excursion ferries. which becomes Friedensallee).–4 p. inner lake with canals running south to the Elbe.Chapter 13: Hamburg. Meat and fish dishes typically include entrecôte (boned rib steak) with mustard sauce. and Lübeck 187 Main courses: 11€–31€ ($14–$39). when the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa issued an edict granting free-trading privileges to Hamburg. AE. a larger body of water ringed by fine villas.–1 a. Bremen. . 176.

See map p. you find works by Meister Bertram. 6€ ($7. there is a giant network of quays. Allow yourself at least two hours to see everything on view. to 5:30 p. April through October.m. Emil Nolde. . The 75-minute trip costs 10€ ($13) for adults. noon. warehouses.m.abicht. now a museum of maritime leave from St. Hamburger Kunsthalle (Fine Arts Museum) Northern Germany’s leading art museum displays works in four different areas. Ernst Kirchner. from November through March.50) for children. The harbor is an open tidal port.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken.m.m. including works by Philipp Otto Runge and Caspar David Friedrich.50€ ($ 3.75) for adults. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. a long. This former East Indies windjammer is open daily from 10 a.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken.m. to 6 p. A brochure and cassettes with a description of the tour in English are available at no additional cost. ATG-AlsterTouristik. to 6 p.188 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Seeing the Alster by boat You can tour both inner (Binnen) and outer (Ausser) Alster by boat. tours depart daily at 10:30 a. The Galerie der Gegenwart (Contemporary At Gallery) displays art created since 1960. The 19th Century galleries display an outstanding collection of German Romantic paintings. Docked just east of the landing stage at Pier 1 is the Rickmer Rickmers (% 040/319-5959). 176. www.m. Tours depart from April through October daily every hour from 10 a. Saturday and Sunday only from 10:30 a. Rubens.m. and Canaletto. and Paul Klee are found in the Klassische Moderne (Modern Art) rooms. Just southeast of Hamburg. de). www. Dazzling works by late-19th.. and drydocks. In the Alte Meister (Old Masters) galleries. offers daily 50-minute trips that depart about every half-hour. Claude Lorrain. from November through March. where the Elbe splits into two arms. Excursion boats operated by Rainer Abicht (% 040/3178220.and early-20th-century artists Edvard Munch. 2. and 1:30 and 3 p.. The same company offers boat tours of Hamburg’s canals and along the Elbe.25) for children younger than 16.alstertouristik.m.. Piers 1 through 9. The cost for the tour is 10€ ($13) for adults and 5€ ($6.m. U-Bahn: St.10) for children ages 4 to 12. from 10 a.m. Max Beckmann. The ships leave from the Jungfernstieg quayside (U-Bahn: Jungfernstieg). The best way to see the port and all its activity is by taking a guided harbor tour. Tourist activity centers around the St. floating landing stage where you can embark on boat tours of the harbor. in which the North Sea tides influence the water level of the Elbe River. a 19th-century clipper ship. to 4 p.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken (the harbor is right across the street). Am Anleger Jungfernstieg (% 040/357-4240.

Admission: Rathaus tour 1€ ($1. % 040/428-131-200. U-Bahn: Rathaus. www. Adolphsplatz 1 (% 040/3613020). which stands back to back with the Rathaus. You can combine a visit to the Rathaus with a stop at the 16th-century Börse (Stock Exchange)..m. (Thurs until 9 p. jewelry www. Pauli (then a 2-minute walk east across Millentordamm).m. Rathausplatz. is an arched passageway with upscale clothing shops. Tours (in English): Mon–Thurs hourly 10:15 a.m. Open: Tues–Sat 10 a. To use the service.hamburgmuseum. Sun 10 a. then a 2minute walk north on An der Kunsthalle). On record are hundreds of thousands of emigrants’ names including the names of the cities and towns in which they originated. 176.–1:15 p. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (exit at Hauptbahnhof Nord. The Rathaus’s 49m-tall (160-ft.50 (65¢) children. % 040/4281-32-2380. and reconstructed period rooms — from the hall of a 17th-century merchant’s house to an air-raid shelter from WWII — illustrate the different eras in Hamburg’s history.m. Give yourself about an hour to browse through the exhibits.50€ ($9. and Lübeck 189 See map p.50) adults. 5€ ($6. . 176 Holstenwall 24.m.Chapter 13: Hamburg. and noon.m.–6 p.m.–6 p. 176.–3:15 p. Admission: 7. Bremen.m. built in the late 19th century on a foundation of oak pilings. You can visit the interior of this Renaissance-style structure with its 647 rooms on a guided tour.. Admission: 8.50€ ($11) adults.–5 p.) clock tower overlooks Rathausmarkt and the Alsterfleet.). Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. See map p.25) children.m. Tours of the Rathaus and the Börse last about 30 to 45 minutes. U-Bahn: St. free for children under 18. 0.m. Guides conduct free tours of the Börse on Tuesday and Thursday at 11 a. % 040/4283-12063. Scale models show the changing face of the port. Tracing your German ancestry The Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (see the listing above) is especially worth a visit if you have German ancestors and want to do genealogical research. The Alsterarkaden. you need to bring records with you that indicate the approximate date that your ancestors left Rathaus (Town Hall) Hamburg’s Rathaus.hamburgerkunsthalle. and boutiques. across the canal.m. the city’s largest canal. Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte (Hamburg History Museum) This museum provides a portrait of Hamburg from the 8th through 20th centuries. See map p. The museum’s office of historical emigration contains passenger lists of all the people who shipped out of Hamburg from the 1850s to about 1930. Fri–Sun hourly 10:15 a.25) adults. Glockengiesserwall 1. is the largest of the old buildings in the Altstadt.

Hagenbeckallee at Steilingen. and pets at this traditional market. 176. takes place every Sunday from 5 a. Michael’s.m.m. Krayenkamp 4C. % 040/540-0010.–5 p. a train ride through a fairyland. a baroque organ built in 1693 by Arp Schnitger.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken).–6 p.m. James’s Church) WWII bombings almost completely destroyed the 13th-century Gothic St.m. St. 1. children younger than 3 free.50€ ($3.m.m. is a famous Hamburg landmark and the principal reason to visit. like so many other buildings in Hamburg.. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke (then a 10-minute walk west on Michaelisstrasse). This zoo in the northwest suburbs offers sea-lion and dolphin shows. is one of the finest baroque churches in northern Germany. pictures. Admission: Free. Jacobikirche (St. The rebuilt church contains several medieval altars. U-Bahn: Hagenbeck’s Tierpark. The 60-register organ at St.m. in summer or from 7 a. St. Admission: Church free.60) children. One block to the south of the church are the Krameramtswohnungen..–5 p. which have been made into art galleries.m. in addition to one of Hamburg’s musical treasures. Admission: 15€ ($18) adults. The famous Hamburg Fischmarkt The Hamburg Fischmarkt (fish market). Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Founded in 1848. % 040/3767-8100.10) adults. fruit. contains the tomb of composer Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach.m. Michaeliskirchplatz. to closing. The crypt. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Jakobikirchhof). the rest of the year. 176. de. and sculptures. vegetables.50€ ($11) children ages 4 to 16. The tower. and a spacious children’s playground. between Hexenberg and Grosse Elbstrasse (U-Bahn: St. tower 2. plants. with its hammered-copper roof. Open: Daily 9 a. Michaelis (St. in winter). The nearby taverns are open to serve Fischmarkt visitors and vendors. elephant and camel rides. . you can buy flowers. See map p. 8. to noon. Hamburg’s last remaining 17th-century brick-and-timber almshouses. Give yourself about 15 minutes to visit the church and tower.500 animals. (until 4:30 p. Jakobikirchhof 22. in existence since 1703. entrance on Steinstrasse. Take the elevator or climb the 449 steps to enjoy the sweeping view from the top. one of the largest in Europe.hagenbeck. Jacobikirche. Oct–Mar 10 a.m.190 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany St. www.50€ to 14€ ($ 12–$ 17) from 11:30 a. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. Hamburg’s zoo is home to about 2. A restaurant serves fixed-price meals for 9. % 040/327-744.–5 p.25€ ($1. Besides fish. See map p.m. 176. Michael’s Church) Constructed of brick. completed in 1762. a master craftsman whose instruments were played by Johann Sebastian Bach.m. Sun 10 a.m. James’s is one of only two surviving Schnitger organs in Germany. Open: Daily Apr–Sept 9 a. See map p.

Grosse Bleichen and Neuer Wall. on langer Samstag. one of the world’s leading opera houses. and winding pathways. the first Sat of the month). The Kleine (small) and Grosse (large) Wallanlagen parks contain many recreational facilities. Alsterhaus. connected transversely by Jungfernstieg and Ufer Strasse on the Binnenalster.hamburgische-staatsoper. Less expensive is Kaufhof. restaurants. contains the largest Japanese garden in Europe. Admission: Free. and an ice-skating rink in winter. at tourist From the Hauptbahnhof. U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse). A miniature railway connects all four parks. These streets contain some of the city’s less expensive stores. available at tourist offices. Karstadt. is known for its rare plant specimens and greenhouses filled with tropical flora. Living it up after dark in Hamburg To find out what’s happening in Hamburg. The performing arts Hamburgische Staatsoper (Hamburg State Opera).Chapter 13: Hamburg. Bremen. See map p. Shopping in Hamburg Hamburg is a big shopping city. U-Bahn: Dammtor (the station is at the southeastern corner of the park). is the home of the . or through the service Theaterkasse Central. Landesbank-Galerie (% 040/337-124. run parallel to the canals. and Lübeck Wallringpark 191 Four beautifully maintained parks and gardens comprise this greenbelt area west of the Altstadt and Alster Lake. Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz 48. The Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden). to 6:30 p. Two of the city’s oldest and most prestigious shopping streets. Dammtorstrasse 28 (% 040/35-68-68. (some until 8 p. playgrounds.m. which offers better deals on merchandise markdowns.m. miniature trees.m. Jungfernstieg 22 (% 040/359-011). You can buy tickets at venue box offices. 176. Planten und Blomen (Plants and Flowers). Mönckebergstrasse 3 (% 040/333-070).m. Stores are generally open Monday through Friday from 9 a. including a rollerskating rink. two major shopping streets fan out in a southwesterly direction toward the Rathaus: the pedestrian-only Spitalerstrasse and Mönckebergstrasse. laid out in 1936. hotels. to 2 p. flowering plants. but don’t expect to find many bargains.m. (until 4 or 6 p.m. or any kind of local specialty or handicraft. with rock gardens. on Thursday) and on Saturday from 9 a. S-Bahn: Dammtor). south of Planten and Blomen. Mönckebergstrasse 16 (% 040/30940). pick up a copy of the monthly Hamburger Vorschau. is part of a departmentstore chain that carries many of the same brands and items as the other leading department stores. www. and newsstands. carries more-fashionable merchandise.

Cover charge is 4€ to 15€ ($5–$19).75–$31). Cover is 5€ to 9€ ($6. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). and to 6 a. beer halls. to 3 p. the only English-speaking theater in the northern part of Germany.m. Wednesday and Sunday and at 11 p. is where The Beatles performed in their earliest days. and fusion. features funk. the Hamburg Philharmonic. Hamburg has dozens of theaters. The hall is open daily from 7 p. U-Bahn: Messehallen). in St. nightclubs. depending on the band. and music scenes Hamburg is famous for its nightlife. but you need to understand German to enjoy the productions. U-Bahn: Mundsburg). . a dance club for 20. and live-music venues: ߜ After Shave. www. from September to April. One exception is the English Theatre of Hamburg. Cover is 5€ to 25€ ($6. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). The Musikhalle. Saturday. ߜ Molotow.m. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). and the NDR Symphony.m. Reeperbahn 10 (% 040/314-281.25–$31).m. If someone catches your fancy. to 5 a. is one of the most popular places in the St. Thursday to Sunday and has no set closing time.englishtheatre. The club is open year-round Monday through Saturday from 8 p. The club is open from 11 p.m. plays host to concerts by the Hamburg Symphony. soul. especially if you’re into funk. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). Tickets range from 7€ to 25€ ($8. jazz. is one of the hottest dance clubs in Hamburg. bar. Johannes-Brahms-Platz (% 040/35-68-68. Ticket prices vary from program to program.m. The following list gives a small sampling of bars.m.25–$11). ߜ Club Grosse Freiheit. Today this cultural institution is a free-for-all venue with acts that change nightly. Friday. in addition to performances by choirs. a giant beer 30-year-olds. Lerchenfeld 14 (% 040/227-7089.m. attracting singles and couples young and old. with meals ranging from 5€ to 15€ ($6.m. you can call him or her from the phone on your table. S-Bahn: Stadthausbrücke). Spielbudenplatz 5 (% 040/31-08-45.m.25–$182).192 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Hamburg State Opera and the Hamburg Ballet.S. Spielbudenplatz 7 (% 040/319-3215.m. free admission for women Friday and Saturday after midnight. Pauli district. chamber orchestras. and guest artists. The ticket office is at Grosstheaterstrasse 34. to midnight. The food is okay. Pauli. Alter Steinweg 10 (% 040/343-878. dance The club.50–$17). ߜ Cotton Club. to 3 a. features jazz and Dixieland bands from throughout Europe and the U. Grosse Freiheit 36 (% 040/317-7711. too. Ticket prices range from 5€ to 146€ ($6. ߜ Bayrisch Zell. to 4 a.25–$19). Thursday. it’s also open Sunday from 11 a. the oldest and best established of the Hamburg jazz clubs. The club opens at 9 p. Cover is 2€ to 14€ ($2.

The museum is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a.m. is one of the major gay centers of Europe. Friday and Saturday from 10 a. The free magazine Dorn Rosa. along a half-mile thoroughfare called the Reeperbahn (pronounced ray-per-bahn. thousands of “working girls” strut their stuff along the Reeperbahn and through St. cabarets. at the corner of Reeperbahn and Grosse Freiheit. Gay and lesbian clubs Hamburg. and the women display themselves behind plate-glass windows. lists the city’s many gay and lesbian clubs. Nobistor 10A (% 040/3178-4126). which includes a glass of schnapps at tour’s end. admission is 8€ ($10). You must reserve in advance. and events. Pauli’s streets. distributed at most gay and lesbian bars. The name literally translates as “Rope Street” and refers to the nautical rope produced there during the 18th and 19th centuries. bars.m. www. Pauli and the Reeperbahn: For adults only Commercialized sex is a major tourist attraction in Hamburg.” is known for its erotic theaters.m. By the mid-1800s. cost is 20€ ($25) per person. had become a hangout for sailors and prostitutes. S-Bahn: Reeperbahn). Led by a professional guide dressed as a 19th-century Hamburg prostitute (the costume is not what you’d call sexy). Herbertstrasse is open only to men older than 18. Historical Whores Tours (% 01805/ offers one of the world’s more unusual walking tours. called Hafen und Huren (Harbors and Whores). Pauli.m. and you do find all kinds of theaters (mostly for musicals and comedies). Between midnight and 5 a. like Berlin. just west of the center. a street whose name appropriately translates as “Great Freedom. Municipal regulations forbid prostitution. and may even be doused with a bucket of water if they enter. to 2 a. The place where it all hangs out is the St. which is close to Hamburg’s great harbor.m. St. The most famous street besides the Reeperbahn itself is Herbertstrasse. restaurants. or overt solicitation. The district also contains the Erotic Art Museum. Many of the prostitutes who work there today are licensed and must submit to a medical examination every two weeks.. and cafes along Lange Reihe just northeast of the train station (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Pauli district. inside erotic theaters. bars.hurentours. .Chapter 13: Hamburg. bars. Pauli is a place to visit at night. Grosse Freiheit. the 90-minute walking tour takes you to various places around the harbor and tells the whore’s side of the story. and Lübeck 193 St. with a dense concentration of gay shops. the museum presents its displays and changing exhibits in a way that’s both academic and titillating. discos. The area is not exclusively devoted to sex. who set up shop with the legal sanction of municipal authorities. Open to those older than 16. and restaurants (although I don’’t recommend dining in this area). Please note that women are not welcome on Herbertstrasse. metal gates block each end of the street. where bordellos line both sides of the street.. The district’s sexrelated bars and theaters are up and running by 8 p. St. to midnight. Bremen.

194 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
A Side Trip: Bremen
Bremen, 120km (75 miles) southwest of Hamburg, has a history that dates back some 1,200 years. (See the “Bremen” map in this chapter.) Located on the Weser River, which flows to the North Sea, it already was a significant port when it was made an Episcopal see in 787. During the Middle Ages, Bremen was one of the strongest members of the Hanseatic League, and in 1646, it became a Free Imperial City. Silting of the Weser led to the establishment of Bremerhaven, Bremen’s deepwater port at the mouth of the Weser, in 1827. With a population of about half a million people, Bremen is the second-most important foreign trade location in the Federal Republic, after Hamburg. Although it’s mostly an industrial city that was badly damaged in WWII, enough remains in old Bremen to make for an intriguing daytrip from Hamburg.

Getting to Bremen
By train, the trip time from Hamburg is less than an hour. For train information and schedules, call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861). If you’re driving, Bremen is a major junction on the A1 Autobahn between Hamburg and the Rhineland. Bremen Flughafen (Airport; % 0421/55-950) has flights from major cities in Germany and Europe.

Finding information and taking a tour
Bremer-Touristik-Zentrale (% 01805/10-10-30; www.bremen-tourism. de) operates tourist information offices at the Hauptbahnhof (main train station; open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat–Sun 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.). A second branch at Obernstrasse/Liebfrauenkirchhof also is open Monday to Friday 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. If you decide to stay overnight in Bremen, this office will help you find a hotel or pension. Guided bus tours, conducted in German and English, depart Tuesday through Sunday year-round at 10:30 a.m. from the Central Coach Station (Rank M) just behind the tourist information office at the main train station. The tour lasts two hours and costs 15€ ($19) for adults and 9.50€ ($12) for children younger than 13. Guided walking tours, with Englishspeaking guides, depart daily at 2 p.m. from mid-May to early October, and Saturdays at 11 a.m. in January and February, from the tourist information office at the main train station. They last two hours, and cost 6.50€ ($8), free for children younger than 13. Buy your tickets at the tourist office.

Dining in Bremen
The Ratskeller below Bremen’s Rathaus, Am Markt (% 0421/32-16-76), is a wonderfully atmospheric place to try North German regional specialties such as Bremer Festtagsuppe (a beef consommé with meatballs, noodles, and vegetables), Bremer Fischtopf (diced salmon, haddock, and red snapper in a vegetable stock), herring with sour cream and roasted

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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potatoes, and Flammkuchen, a pizzalike dish with mushrooms, herbs, and cheese. This is also a good place to try a Probierportion (sample portion) of Labkaus, a delicious corned-beef hash mixed with pickled herring, topped with a fried egg, and served with dill pickles and beets. The adjoining restaurant, Vor dem Bacchus, serves fresh fish. Main courses go for 10€ to 22€ ($13–$27). The restaurants are open daily from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. See map above.




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196 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Exploring Bremen
Bremen’s main sights are in the Altstadt, clustered around Marktplatz (Market Square), the center of Bremen life for more than a millennium. Most of the compact oval Altstadt, with the Weser River along the south side and the Stadtgraben canal on the north, is a pedestrian zone and can easily be explored on foot. Recent restoration work has brightened up the center and its many historic buildings. From Bahnhofsplatz in front of the train station, head south to Herdentor and the bridge that crosses the Stadtgraben canal. To your right, in the Wallanlagen, the pretty parkland along the canal (formerly the city wall stood here), you’ll see a large Dutch-style windmill. At one time, more than a dozen windmills operated in this area. At the beginning of Sögestrasse (Sow Street), a bronze swineherd and a herd of bronze sows and piglets commemorates the street where medieval butchers kept their pigs. A short walk south brings you to the Marktplatz, where a 15th-century sandstone statue of Knight Roland, the city’s protector, stands guard beside the Rathaus. Bremen’s impressive three-story Rathaus (Town Hall; % 0421/36-10) has been standing on the Marktplatz for 600 years and was untouched by the bombing raids of WWII. The main Gothic structure was built in 1405, but in 1612 the upper section of the facade was redone in what is known as Weser Renaissance style. (Weser Renaissance, a term applied to architecture created in and around the Weser River valley between 1520 and 1620, is characterized by ornate decoration on classically proportioned buildings.) Inside, the upper hall with its beautifully carved early-17thcentury oak staircase and mural of The Judgment of Solomon (1537), was used as council chamber and courtroom. You can visit the Rathaus on 45minute guided tours Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m., noon, 3 and 4 p.m., and on Sunday at 11 a.m. and noon. Admission is 4€ ($5) adults, 2€ ($2.50) children and students. You can dine in the historic Ratskeller beneath the building (see “Dining in Bremen,” earlier in this section). Walk around to the west end of the Rathaus to see Bremen’s most famous characters, the Bremen Town Musicians from the Grimm’s fairy tale of the same name. Local artist Gerhard Marcks created the bronze sculpture of a donkey, dog, cat, and cock in 1951.

Chocolate lovers take note
Hachez, a famous Bremen chocolatier founded in 1890, occupies a charming 18thcentury patrician house near the Rathaus. The shop, Stoevesandt-Diele, Am Markt 1 (% 0421/50-90-00), is a chocolate-lover’s emporium where you can find sweet specialties such as chocolate champagne truffles.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


Bells are ringing on Böttcher Street
Böttcherstrasse, running from Marktplatz to the Weser River, is one of the most architecturally intriguing streets in Germany and one of Bremen’s most noteworthy attractions. Ludwig Roselius, a rich Bremen merchant who invented decaffeinated coffee, paid for the construction of the redbrick buildings that line the street, which was dedicated in 1926 and rebuilt after World War II. Part of the narrow brick-paved street was built in an avant-garde German expressionist style; the other part was meant to look more traditionally medieval. The street is lined with shops, crafts workshops, restaurants, two museums, and galleries. Time your visit to hear the carillon of bells made of Meissen porcelain. Every hour between noon and 6 p.m. (Jan–Apr at noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m.), they play a tune for a full 15 minutes as a sequence of woodcarved panels in a revolving tower tells the story of transatlantic aviators.

Directly opposite the Rathaus stands the Schütting, a 16th-century guild hall today used by the chamber of commerce (not open to the public). Adding a modern architectural touch to the ancient square is the Haus der Bürgerschaft, constructed in 1966 and home of Bremen’s Parliament. Free 20-minute tours of the building are given Monday to Friday at 2 p.m. At the southeast end of the Marktplatz, towering majestically over the entire Altstadt, is St. Petri-Dom (St. Peter’s Cathedral), Sandstrasse 10–12 (% 0421/36-50-40), originally constructed in 1043 as the archbishop’s church and rebuilt in the 16th and 19th centuries. Other than the 12thcentury bronze baptismal font in one of the Romanesque crypts there is not much of exceptional interest within the cathedral, which is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday 2 to 5 p.m. From Easter through October you can climb to the top of the cathedral towers for a panoramic view of the Altstadt. The Dom Museum (Cathedral Museum; % 0421/365-04-41) displays artifacts discovered during a restoration of the cathedral in the early 1970s, including vestments found in archbishops’ graves and 15th-century wall paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder. More interesting than the museum is the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), reached by going outside and around to the side of the cathedral. It contains a bizarre collection of mummified corpses — 16th- and 17th-century lords, ladies, students, and soldiers, plus a cat and a monkey — whose leathery bodies were found in graves beneath and around the cathedral. Admission for the cathedral museum and the Lead Cellar is 1.50€ ($2) for adults, 1€ ($1.25) for students and children; both are open the same hours as the cathedral, but the Lead Cellar is closed November to Easter. The Paula Modersohn-Becker Museum, Böttcherstrasse 6–10 (% 0421/ 336-5077), is dedicated to Bremen’s outstanding painter (1876–1907) and contains many of her best works, including paintings, drawings, and prints. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

198 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Admission is 5€ ($6.25) for adults and 3€ ($3.75) for children. With the same ticket, you can visit the nearby Museum im Roselius Haus (same address, phone, and hours), a 16th-century merchant’s home filled with Ludwig Roselius’s collection of medieval art and furniture. Böttcherstrasse leads to the Schlachte embankment along the Weser River. The riverside promenade is lined with taverns and restaurants and is the locale of the Weserflohmarkt (Weser Flea Market), open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Schlachte embankment also is where you find guided boat trips (in German only) around the harbor. Boats depart from the landing in front of the Martinikirche (St. Martin’s Church) every day from April through October at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. on a voyage that lasts about 75 minutes. The cost is 8.50€ ($11) for adults and 4.50€ ($5.50) for children. A five-minute walk southeast from the Schlachte brings you to the charming albeit touristy Schnoor district, Bremen’s oldest surviving quarter. The 16th- and 17th-century cottages in the Schnoor once were the homes of simple fishermen. In an effort to revive old arts and crafts, they’re now rented to artists and artisans. Sightseers visit not only for the atmosphere but also for the unusual restaurants, shops, and art galleries.

Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own
Seven Gothic church spires rise above the picturesque town of Lübeck, located 66km (41 miles) northeast of Hamburg in the state of SchleswigHolstein. (See the “Lübeck” map in this chapter.) Along the ancient streets of its Altstadt, you find more buildings from the 13th to the 15th centuries than in any other city in northern Germany. Most of the buildings, including the churches, are fine examples of the redbrick architecture so characteristic of northern Germany. The city’s architectural heritage is so rich that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) placed Lübeck on its World Heritage list of international monuments. UNESCO bestows World Heritage status to places judged to have exceptional cultural and historic value. From the 13th century on, Lübeck was capital of the Hanseatic League, the powerful association of merchants that controlled trade along the Baltic as far as Russia. The town still retains the name Hansestadt Lübeck. Lübeck makes a rewarding daytrip from Hamburg, less than an hour away by train, but its charms may beguile you to stay overnight. With its enormous churches, high-gabled houses, massive gates, and historic buildings at every turn, Lübeck is a delightful city to explore.

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


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200 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Lübeck’s Nobel sons
Lübeck has had several famous sons, notably Thomas Mann and Willy Brandt. As a young man, Brandt (1913–1992), who later became West German chancellor and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971, opposed the Nazis so vehemently that he had to flee on a boat to Norway. The Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck at 21 Königstrasse is in the process of being restored and is expected to open in 2007. The writer Thomas Mann (1875– 1955) used his hometown of Lübeck as the setting for his novel Buddenbrooks, which catapulted the 27-year-old author to international fame in 1902. In 1929, Mann won the Nobel Prize for literature. The Buddenbrookhaus (described in “Walking through Lübeck,” in this chapter), which belonged to Mann’s grandparents, is a place of literary pilgrimage for fans of Mann. Günter Grass, author of The Tin Drum, won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1999. Although he was not born in Lübeck, he lives nearby. The relationship between Grass’s literary output and his artwork is explored in the permanent exhibits at the Günther Grass House, Glockengiesserstrasse 21 (% 0451/1224231;, which opened in 2002. Here you can see some of Grass’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures. Grass unleashed a torrent of criticism in 2006 when he revealed, in advance of the publication of his autobiography, that he had served in the Nazi Waffen SS at age 17; some critics suggested the Nobel Prize committee should revoke Grass’s prize. The museum is open daily April through October from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., November through March 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults, 2.20€ ($2.75) students and children.

Getting there
By train, you can reach Lübeck from anywhere in Germany or Europe. Dozens of trains arrive daily from Hamburg, only 40 minutes away. For train schedules and information, call German Rail (% 11861) or visit their Web site ( By boat, you can take a passenger or car ferry service between Denmark (the port of Rødbyhaven) and Lübeck (the port of Puttgarden). ScandLines (% 04371/865-161; offers daily departures. TT Saga Line (% 04502/80181; operates between the German port of Travemünde and the Swedish port of Trelleborg. By car, you can reach Lübeck via the A1 Autobahn north and south.

Finding information and taking a walking tour
In the train station, Touristinformation Hauptbahnhof (% 0451/864675) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m. The Lübeck und Travemünde Tourist Service Welcome Center, Holstentorplatz 1 (% 01805/882-233; 0.12€/15¢ per minute;, across from the Holstentor Museum, is open January through May and October through November, Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to

Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck


3 p.m.; June through September and December, hours are Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. This office can help you with hotel reservations. Two-hour walking tours (6€/$7.50) of the historic city depart from the Holstentor tourist office Monday through Saturday at 2 p.m. (additional walks at 11 a.m. July–Sept) and on Sundays year-round at 11 a.m.

Orienting yourself
The Trave and Wakenitz rivers and other waterways encircle Lübeck’s Altstadt, an oval-shaped island a little more than a mile long and less than a mile wide. Eight bridges connect the old town with greater Lübeck on the mainland. Only about 12,000 residents (out of about 225,000) live on the island, which is where all the major attractions are located.

Getting around Lübeck
The Altstadt and all the major attractions can be reached on foot from the train station. You also can take buses 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, or 16 from the train station into the Altstadt. The fare is 2€ ($2.50). A fun and relaxing way to see Lübeck is by water. Excursion boats operated by MAAK-Linie (% 0451/706-3859; leave from docks on the Trave River just north of the Holstentor. In summer, departures are hourly between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (11 a.m.–4 p.m. the rest of the year). The trip (commentary in German with English text available) lasts one hour and encircles the entire Altstadt. Cost is 7€ ($8.75) for adults, 5.50€ ($7) for seniors, and 3€ ($3.75) for children.

Staying in Lübeck
Lübeck offers a full range of hotel options, from small inns and pensions to modern facilities. To enjoy the ancient, atmospheric charms of Lübeck, I recommend that you choose a hotel in the Altstadt. The Lübeck and Travemünde Tourist Service (see “Finding information and taking a walking tour” earlier in this chapter) also can help you find a room.

Special events in Lübeck
The Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival, one of the best music festivals in Germany, occurs in Lübeck (which has a famed music school) with performances from early July until the end of August every year. For more information, call % 0800/7463-2002 or log on to A popular Christmas market featuring handmade wares from all across northwestern Germany takes place during the three weeks preceding Christmas.

202 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany
Klassik Altstadt Hotel
$ –$$ Altstadt
If you want to stay in a smaller, older hotel in the Altstadt, Klassik Altstadt Hotel is a good choice. The 28 individually decorated rooms, all named for famous Lübeckers, have a pleasant, traditional style. Most of the bathrooms have showers; a few have tubs. The on-site restaurant is good and moderately priced. See map p. 199. Fischergrube 52, 23552 Lübeck. % 0451/702980. Fax: 0451/73778. Rates: 77€–130€ ($96–$162) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

Radisson SAS Senator Hotel Lübeck
$$$ Altstadt
If you want a modern, full-service hotel, the Radisson is the best place to stay. A pedestrian bridge connects the hotel from its riverside location to the Altstadt. The 231 medium-sized rooms are attractively furnished. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Amenities include an on-site health club with pool, sauna, and steam rooms, and a computer in the lobby that enables you to check your e-mail. Children up to age 12 stay for free in their parents’ room. See map p. 199. Willy-Brandt-Allee 6, 23554 Lübeck. % 800/333-3333 in the U.S. or 0451/1420. Fax: 0451/142-2222. Rates: 160€ ($200). AE, MC, V.

Dining in Lübeck
As you may have guessed, fresh seafood from the North and Baltic seas is featured on the menus of many restaurants in Lübeck. In this section are a few good restaurants where you can dine well in historic surroundings.

Historischer Weinkeller
$$ –$$$ Altstadt
The Historischer Weinkeller, located beneath the 13th-century HeiligenGeist-Hospital (see the “Walking through Lübeck” section next), is an excellent and atmospheric restaurant with an international menu. You can choose from several different fixed-priced menus, including a summertime “lübsche Gasterei” (Lübeck hospitality), a seven-course medieval feast. You may begin with smoked Norwegian salmon, gooseliver pâté, or a fishbased soup. Entrees range from filet of cod with sauerkraut and poached haddock in a mustard sauce to meat dishes and vegetarian choices. Note: This restaurant is divided into two sections, the Kartoffelkeller (potato cellar) and the Weinkeller (wine cellar); of the two, the Weinkeller is the more pleasant place to dine. See map p. 199. Koberg 8. % 0451/76234. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($18–$25). Fixedprice menu 25€–40€ ($31–$50). AE, MC, V. Open: Daily noon to midnight.

Schiffergesellschaft $$ –$$$ Altstadt A popular spot for tourists and locals alike. Niederegger’s is open daily from 9 a. more modern dining room behind it. AE.Chapter 13: Hamburg. % 0451/76776. According to legend. Try the crab soup.m. to 6 p. followed by fresh fish from the Baltic Sea. and the staff is friendly and professional. which comes with three different kinds of fish. Open: Daily 10 a.m. Walking through Lübeck Concentrate your sightseeing in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt.m. You also can get pasta dishes such as tagliatelle with fresh mushrooms or with salmon and lemon. Reservations recommended. especially fish. See map p. this historic restaurant is a good place to enjoy regional specialties. all delicious. About one-fifth of the Altstadt was destroyed in a 1942 bombing. In the front dining room. As a starter. surrounded by the Trave River and its canals. On the ground floor. They were so pleased with the sweet results that they’ve been making Marzipan ever since. you sit at wooden tables lit by candlelight. and the tasting menus are good value for money. but approximately 1. Main courses: 15€–23€ ($18–$29). The service is attentive.000 medieval buildings still stand within a 5-sq.-mile) area around the . and Lübeck 203 The sweet side of Lübeck Lübeck is the world capital of Marzipan. to midnight. if available. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. % 0451/72011. there’s a lighter. To sample Lübeck’s famous Marzipan. decorated with wooden ship models hanging from the ceiling. the wine list is excellent. MC.m. located right across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806. stop in at Cafe Niederegger. order “herring three ways” on black bread. The fish here is excellent and recommended. Main courses: 8€–25€ ($10– $31). V. dinner 39€–57€ ($49–$71). See map p. fixed-price menus lunch 18€–22€ ($22–$27). Mengstrasse 48–52. 199. Ristorante Roberto Rossi im Schabbelhaus $$ –$$$ Altstadt Occupying two elegant town houses on a lovely medieval street. and 6–11 p. Bremen. Breite Strasse 2.m. Breitestrasse 98 (% 0451/53010). V. An English-language menu is available to help guide your choices. Then I’d recommend the fish plate. or you can go upstairs to the pleasant cafe for dessert and coffee.-km (2-sq. MC. The atmospheric dining room overlooks a small garden. a sweet almond paste. Schabbelhaus serves good Italian cuisine and some classic North German dishes. 199. Lübeckers ran out of flour during a long siege and started grinding almonds to make bread. AE. you can purchase bars and boxes of Marzipan to take away (an excellent gift idea).

m. The present building. From the train station. cross the Puppenbrücke (Dolls’ Bridge) and head east into the Altstadt. After you enter the Altstadt.m. The Rathaus was rebuilt several times since the first foundation stone was laid in 1230. Mary’s Church). Black glazedbrick courses (horizontal lines) and round panels emblazoned with coats of arms adorn the redbrick walls. across the street from the Holstentor. fruit. shops. a large square filled with meat. to 6 p. the oldest dates from 1579. to 6 p. and medieval torture instruments. Towering above the Markt and the Rathaus is one of northern Germany’s most outstanding examples of the brick Gothic style. churches. once the main town entrance. and vegetable stalls every Monday and Thursday. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults.25) for students and children under 18. 4.m. Continuing a few blocks east on Holstenstrasse. the cost is 3€ ($3. takes about four to five hours. The entire walk. Merchants stored salt (considered “white gold”) from nearby Lüneburg in these buildings before shipping it to Scandinavia.204 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Marktplatz. 2.. with stops at museums. where the salt was used to preserve fish. the newest from 1745. stand the Salzspeicher (Salt Lofts). The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures. the Markt is the site of Lübeck’s famous Christmas Market. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. In December. You can see everything in less than 30 minutes. and guild halls. models of Hanseatic Kogge (cogs.m. You can see the interior on a guided tour (in German) Monday through Friday at noon and 3 p. Schüsselbuden 13 (% 0451/397-700). 3. the twin-towered Marienkirche (St. a group of six gabled Renaissance buildings. 1€ ($1. What follows are the stops on a walking tour of the Altstadt that begins at the Hauptbahnhof (train station). directly in front of you is the 15thcentury Holstentor (Holsten Gate). The Marienkirche served as a model for many . Just south. is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. topped by slender turrets. or single-sail vessels). Builders used brick as the predominant material for houses. you reach Lübeck’s Rathaus.m. The bridge got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its stone railings. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. 1. Rathausplatz (% 0451/122-1005).75) for adults and 1. The Rathaus stands on the north and east sides of the Marktplatz..50€ ($2) for children and students. a local history museum housed within the gate and contains a model of Lübeck as the town appeared in the mid 17th century. one of the oldest and most beautiful city halls in Germany. Here you’ll find the new tourist Welcome Center and the newly revamped Museum Holstentor (% 0451/122-4129). The building sits on brick arcades that allow easy access to the main entrance on Breite Strasse.

also displays major 20th-century artists such as Leon Kirchner. to 6 p. An outstanding collection of German Romantic and German Impressionist paintings is on view at Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. They still are there. 9. and has exhibits relating to the city’s cultural life in the 18th and 19th centuries. carrying on a tradition established by St. just to the south of the Museen Behnhaus/Drägerhaus. to 6 p. to 5 p.. This big.m. At Glockengiesserstrasse 25. was the author of Professor Unrat. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter for more information..60€ ($6) for students. is in the process of being restored and will become the Willi-Brandt-Haus Lübeck. left as a reminder and warning of the horrors of war. Next door. formed from two 18th-century town houses. an almshouse built in the 17th century for the widows of seamen and merchants. you find the Günther Grass Haus museum. The house is open daily April through October from 10 a. a few blocks north of the Rathaus. During a WWII bombing attack.m. the tower bells crashed down into the church and embedded themselves in the stone floor. The Magic Mountain.) and you enter a tranquil courtyard with houses still occupied by widows. the source of the movie The Blue Angel. has the highest brick vaulting in the world. plan to spend at least half an hour at Buddenbrookhaus. Organ concerts take place during the summer and fall. just north of the Marienkirche. Königstrasse 9–11 (% 0451/122-4148).buddenbrookhaus. Dietrich Buxtehude (1637–1707). to 5 p. and Ernst Barlach.. and that of his family. to noon and 3–6 p. and Buddenbrooks. Step through the ornamented baroque portal (open 9 a. www.) high.m. The museum. former West German chancellor and Nobel Peace Prize winner. Max Beckmann. At Königstrasse 21.Chapter 13: Hamburg. 36m (120 ft. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. 8. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a. letters. from birth to death. admission is 7€ ($9) for adults.m. On the second floor are period rooms and artifacts.m.m. 1€ ($1. the rest of the year from 11 a. Mary’s best-known organist and composer. 6.m. Mengstrasse 4 (% 0451/122-4192. If you’re a fan of the great German writer Thomas Mann. for information. at Glockengiesser 21. Heinrich Mann (1871–1950). Bremen. 7.m.m. and documents chronicling Mann’s life. stone-and-stucco house with a gabled roof belonged to Mann’s grandparents and was the model for the family home Mann wrote about in Buddenbrooks. 4. Its central nave. is the Füchtingshof. the childhood home of Willi Brandt. Saturday and Sunday from 11 a. Mann’s brother. you find a comprehensive collection of photographs. and Lübeck 205 other churches built in the Baltic region. .m. whose works include Death in Venice. solid. 5. see the sidebar “Lübeck’s Nobel sons” earlier in this chapter.25) for students and children 6 to 18.

m.-Annen-Strasse 15 (% 0451/122-4137).–5 p.”) 10. Housed in a 16th-century Augustinian convent that was later used as an almshouse and a prison. the church itself isn’t that interesting. (Salt was considered “white gold.m. To round off your tour of Lübeck. including a work by Hans Memling.m. This building. Schmiedestrasse (% 0451/397330). you find the St. The black glaze comes from salt being sprinkled on the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder. 49–51. at nos. 11. open Tues–Sun 10 a. the church is open daily from 9 a. Except for its size. Philanthropic local citizens founded the hospital in 1230. Two blocks northeast of the Dom. you find Lübeck’s Dom. to 6 p.m. 14. A short distance to the north stands the Heiligen-Geist-Hospital (Hospital of the Holy Spirit). The Glandorps-Gang. to 6 p. St.m.50€ ($3) for adults. 12. and you can poke your head inside them (no admission charge. . you’ll sometimes see medieval redbrick buildings decorated with black glazed bricks. On the south side of town. From March through September. Am Koburg (% 0451/122-2040). the museum has a noteworthy collection of medieval and Renaissance altarpieces.206 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany White gold and black bricks In Lübeck and in other cities in northern Germany. 1€ ($1. to 6 p. and take the elevator up to the top of its tower for a memorable view of Lübeck and its port. Mühlendamm 2–6 (% 0451/74704).. at no. The building is open daily from 10 a. when the building was converted to a shelter for elderly men and women. is one of the oldest social-welfare institutions in Europe. 1€ ($1. and one of the most important monumental buildings of the Middle Ages.m. with its belfry and four turreted spires. head over to the 750-year-old Petrikirche (St. In the early 19th century. The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. The cabins remain intact. 130 tiny wooden cabins without ceilings were built within its enormous main hall. Saturday and Sunday 11 a. The church was destroyed in WWII and later rebuilt. 41. 13. are the city’s oldest almshouses.25) for students and children 6 to 18. and the Glandorps-Hof.-Annen-Museum. dating from 1612 and built for the widows of merchants and craftsmen.).m. You can see everything in about half an hour. Admission is 2.m.m. Peter’s Church). to 7 p.25) for students and children. Construction on this massive edifice began in 1173. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults.

Weimar. with their outstanding museums. located 198km (123 miles) south of Berlin and 111km (69 miles) southeast of Leipzig. The Frauenkirche is a symbol of what Dresden once was — a city known as “Florence on the Elbe.) The cities of Dresden and Leipzig. historic buildings. Both states are rich in sightseeing possibilities. celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006. Dresden became the most important city in Saxony when the ruling Wettin . destroyed in the bombings of World War II (WWII). Leipzig.Chapter 14 Dresden. and musical heritage. are the largest cities in Saxony. Perhaps the most important celebratory event was the reopening of the famous domed Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). is the cultural jewel in Thuringia’s crown. Thuringia is considered the “green heart” of Germany because the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) covers much of its southern portion.” and renowned for its architecture and art treasures — and hopes to become again. In Saxony. famed for its river scenery. associated with Goethe (Germany’s greatest writer. S Dresden: Florence on the Elbe Dresden. winding roads lead through spruce-covered hills to unspoiled villages that waft you back to the Middle Ages. the mighty Elbe River flows through an area near Dresden known as Saxon Switzerland. (See the “Saxony and Thuringia” map in this chapter. Narrow. and Weimar: Jewels of the East In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting Dresden and its famous museums ᮣ Discovering old and new Leipzig ᮣ Enjoying the beautiful town of Weimar ᮣ Remembering the past at Buchenwald axony and Thuringia (Thüringen in German) are side-by-side Länder (states) in eastern Germany that are well worth visiting. author of Faust) and the German Enlightenment of the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

For rail information and schedules. Getting there Getting to Dresden is easy. in the reopened portion of the Residenzschloss (palace). Dresden has two main rail stations. Many visitors come just to visit the museums in the Zwinger Palace and to see the treasures of the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). is the most ambitious reconstruction effort in the entire country and marks an important stage in Dresden’s recovery. although some trains. the station on the north side of the river. the city airport. the beautiful old core of the city. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861. Under the rule of Elector Augustus the Strong. is used more for regional when Allied firebombs destroyed three-quarters of Dresden’s Altstadt. A taxi from the airport to the center of Dresden costs about 16€ ($20). More than a dozen trains make the daily trip from Berlin (2–21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (41⁄2 hours). Lufthansa and other international carriers provide regularly scheduled service between Dresden and cities throughout Germany and Europe. Dresden flourished as one of the great cultural centers of Europe. The easiest and least expensive way to get into the city center is by the Flughafen S-Bahn (airport train). including the Airport S-Bahn. 1945. By train Getting to Dresden by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe is easy. The trip takes about 20 minutes and costs 1. This major city has an airport. the preeminent personality in the town’s history.208 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Dynasty decided to make the city its capital in the late 15th century. using original plans and even some of the original stone (bombed pieces of which were found in the Elbe). After reunification. By plane Flughafen Dresden (% 0351/881-3360. Then came the night of February 13. frequent train service. The reconstruction of the Frauenkirche.bahn. and a good road network. at Schlesischer Park. stop at both stations. or visit their Web site www. lies 9km (51⁄2 miles) north of the city center. Historic buildings have since been rebuilt. www. on Wiener Platz on the south side of the Elbe. . which runs from the airport to the two main train stations. You can buy your ticket at the S-Bahn window in the underground station beneath the new terminal. Around it you find nearly all of Dresden’s major attractions.dresden-airport. but the work has taken decades. within walking distance of Altstadt (Old Town).70€ ($2). All long-distance trains pull into the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Dresden emerged as the top contender for tourists in the former East Germany.

Leipzig.Chapter 14: Dresden. and Weimar 209 Saxony and Thuringia 0 0 20 km 20 mi N 103 Airport E251 E28 POLAND E26 E55 167 A11 Eberswalde d e r O AN Y Berlin SAXONYANHALT 107 102 5 273 A10 E55 GERM THURINGIA Brandenburg Potsdam E51 A115 Berlin E55 A12 E30 189 Area of Detail E30 2 A13 87 Magdeburg El 81 71 A9 E51 102 Lübben Lübbenau bbenau be R iv Wittenberg er 187 Dessau E55 A13 2 87 101 97 6 91 Quedlinburg Eisleben 6 80 Halle Leipzig A14 Meissen Dresden 173 4 93 88 A4 E40 Buchenwald 7 Erfurt To Eisenach Dornburg Weimar Jena A4 E40 2 Altenburg E55 Chemnitz 174 E441 Arnstadt Th ür in ge Plauen E442 r E49 4 W al d E51 Hof E49 E48 Karlovy Vary 6 Coburg 279 C Z E C H 27 R E P U B L I C A70 E48 21 E49 Bayreuth A93 22 Bamberg A73 To Nuremberg Plzen E50 E50 .

You can buy the Dresden Card at the tourist information centers. and cafes. the newly restored Frauenkirche. Saturday 10 a. and restaurants. between the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) and the river. Prager Strasse. churches in the Altmarkt (Old Market) and Neumarkt (New Market) squares. Four exits (Altstadt. or concert tickets. maintains an extensive system of bus and tram lines within the city and far out into the suburbs. you can book a hotel room and purchase a map of Dresden and information booklets in English.m. Trying to find a parking spot in the center of Dresden isn’t easy.m. a wide pedestrian street lined with shops.. The A4 comes in from Leipzig and Bavaria (eventually the A4 will connect Dresden to Prague). The Dresden Card is good for 48 hours on all trams. buses. The same services are available at the Information Center located in the Schinkelwache (Old City Guard House). Prager Strasse (% 0351/491-920. you can easily get around on foot. and the Semper Opera House. Service is limited after midnight. to 4 p. is the main thoroughfare (and site of the main tourist information office). On the south side. and restaurants line Hauptstrasse and Kö and boat tours in the Dresden area. its main streets. Getting around Dresden If you plan to visit only the historic center of Dresden. www. near the main train station. Neustadt. including those in the Zwinger and the Albertinum. The city’s transport I recommend that you park on the outskirts and travel to the city center by bus or tram. Finding information At the Information Center. Pretty 19th-century houses reconstructed to hold shops. You also can buy theater. the Zwinger Palace museums. and Sunday (Schinkelwache only) 10 a. city tours.210 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany By car The A13 Autobahn connects Dresden to Berlin. Orienting yourself The Elbe River divides Dresden more or less in half. On the north side of the river is Dresden-Neustadt. The hours for both are Monday through Friday 10 a.m. apartments. The cost is 19€ ($24). hotels. The highways run along the west side of the city. and ferries in Dresden and admission to all the top museums. dresden-tourist. at Theaterplatz Square. but the major lines continue to operate every hour. Dresdner Verkehrsbetriebe (DVB. to 4 p. boutiques. www. including art museums. and Wilder Mann) lead into the center. . Hellerau. opera.m. to 6 p.m.. You also get reduced prices for other museums. % 0351/857-1011. you find all the major cultural attractions. Germany’s reunification triggered a real estate and reconstruction boom in this picturesque neighborhood of art galleries.

and Weimar ra ATTRACTIONS Albertinum 17 Frauenkirche 16 Grünes Gewolbe 10 Katholische Hofkirche 11 Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst 18 Standseilbahn 20 Zwinger 7 Church Information Railway Hauptbahnhof Dresden au e ch ss tti e Lu rass nga e st d Lin B 211 Munich lüh e Wiener Platz Le nn e am Main rst Frankfurt i str iese erw Bürgkstrasse Par sse as se GERMANY Dresden i .25 km ag se bu ienMar cke brü ra Ter ss e Albertstrasse sse e ss H au p chs tra tst Frie dri St ra ras er 0 2 sse nig Kö rasse 1 st N ra nuf st rit z 4 3 rd Wiga 18 Carolaplatz sb Köbisplatz se 22 21 20 Sachsenplatz Elb e stras er e s r tra aufe ts Ostr vrien e D ss ei e 5 se Ost W ss ert Alb ücke br zs er it nn Ko ustu ing Aug ei ert Carolsbrüc ch rück e ACCOMMODATIONS Art'otel 5 Hilton Dresden 13 Hotel Bülow Residenz 1 Hotel Martha Hospiz 2 Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe 18 Westin Bellevue 3 tra raalle Elbe Ter rass enu fer Fr.M de rg 0 0.P Zin ze Berlin tras bu Hamburg Gün be lal lee Sternplatz ALTSTADT sse Lingnerplatz Blüherpark Bl herpark Grosser Garten tzst e DINING Ayers Rock 14 Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen 22 Café Schinkelwache 8 Café zur Frauenkirche 15 Fischgalerie 4 Freiberger Schankhaus 19 Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) 6 Luisenhof 21 Rossini 12 Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais 9 ke Ros tr en s sse rS tra rass ae onst as se Webergasse Pirnaischer Platz G r un e Amm r n st nstra e Sac hsa Zw Am Zwinger Pond i 11 12 13 14 Theater6 platz Rathenauplatz Dürerstrasse Pilln itzer llee ass e Stra sse rass e . Leipzig.25 mi 0.-Külz sse ausstra h n e Wais se er rfs Stü rg nd o er S et er s St Prag Chapter 14: Dresden.-HeckertPlatz Sc h we ras se Marie Freib erge r Str asse Postplatz 9 Wilsd ru Schloß E hst hrlic rasse 10 15 17 16 18 19 ffer S trasse strass rine r St 7 8 e An ne ss St ra tra Georgplatz sse -Ring Dr.

Buses leave every half-hour from 10 a. offers a daily 90-minute Super Dresden Tour (Grosse Stadtrundfahrt). Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt (% 0351/866-090) offers daily 90-minute boat trips along the Elbe from May into October at 11 a.dvbag. free for children 14 and younger. For a description of the beautiful new Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe.m. Purchase your tickets and a transportation map from the vending machines (marked “Fahrkarten”) outside the train stations. book your room ahead of time. unless you’re visiting the outskirts of Dresden. to 7 p. www.m.m. and 3:30 p.m. good for two adults and up to four children in one zone.50). DVB (% 0351/8571011.50€ ($ Art’otel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt The six floors of this dramatic postmodern hotel. including the lovely Loschwitz neighborhood. costs 5.m. are the “artiest” of any hotel in Dresden. adjacent to the Augustusbrücke (Augustus Bridge) and covers both sides of the Elbe. Double rooms have bathrooms with stainless-steel sinks and a shower. 1 p. .. a walk through the city’s historic center.50€ ($7) for children. A one-day Tageskarte (day pass) costs 4.m. www. You find a small gym and sauna on the premises. see Chapter 22. you only need a one-zone ticket.. An English-speaking guide accompanies the 1 and 3 p. You can hop on or off the bus at any of 22 points along the way.212 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The city is divided into fare zones.m.m.m. to 3 p. Staying in Dresden Since reunification and the amazing increase in tourism. 3 p. A single ticket for the bus or tram costs 1.m. to 6 p. The paddle-wheel steamers depart from the Terrassenufer quay below the Brühlsche Terrasse (embankment) along the south bank of the river and travel upstream to Loschwitz and back again. The cost is 11€ ($14) for adults.m. both are open Monday through Friday from 7 a. a guided (audio headsets for English translations) bus tour that leaves from Schlossplatz. or at DVB service centers inside the Hauptbahnhof or at Postplatz.. Validate your ticket (by stamping the ticket in a machine) upon entering the bus or tram. The price is 18€ ($22) for adults. and costs 10€ ($13) offers a one-hour Historical City Tour (Historischer Stadtrundgang). Buy your tickets at the kiosk on the quay. If you want to stay here. tours from Thursday through Sunday. Dresden’s hotel prices have soared.50€ ($7).m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a. and 5 p. The 174 goodsized bedrooms are stylish and comfortably chic without being pretentious. Seeing Dresden by guided tour Stadtrundfahrt Dresden (% 0351/899-5650. located a bit out of the center of the Altstadt. and so has the demand for rooms.70€ ($2) for a one-hour ride anywhere in Zone 1. 5. Buy your tickets at a tourist information center.stadtrundfahrt. A Familientageskarte (family day ticket). This tour departs from Postplatz daily at 11 a.

Westin Bellevue $$$$ Neustadt The 339-room Westin Bellevue is located near the most attractive part of the Elbe River. Rates: 130€ ($162) double. The 50 rooms have a simple. MC. Bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. and many of the rooms have lovely river and Altstadt views. Fax: 0351/492-2777. or 0351/86420. Rates include buffet breakfast. DC. % 0351/80030. Hotel Martha Hospiz $$ Neustadt Managed by the Association of Christian Hoteliers (VCH). V. % 800-445-8667 in the U. V. AE. The staff is unusually friendly and helpful. V. % 0351/49220. MC. AE. An der Frauenkirche 5. AE. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz.artotel. Michelin-starred Caroussel Restaurant serves fresh French cuisine with a Mediterranean influence (main courses 25€–35€/ $ 31–$ 44). this simple but comfortable four-story hotel is a 15-minute walk from the heart of Dresden’s Altstadt. each with a shower. www. 211. Rähnitzgasse 19.dresden. Fax: 0351/817-6222. . 01067 Dresden. Fax: 0351/800-3100. Rates: 160€–215€ ($200–$269) double.Chapter 14: Dresden.buelow-residenz. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). on the north bank of the Elbe River. % 0351/81760. 211. Rooms are midsize and somewhat short on style but well-maintained. You find a pool. See map p. Nieritzstrasse fitness club. DC. MC. 01097 Dresden. www. Each of the 30 spacious rooms is laid out differently and furnished with modern designer and reproduction Biedermeier pieces. 211. Leipzig.hilton. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. The large marble-tiled bathrooms have shower-tub combinations. Breakfast is an additional 19€ ($ 24). and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. and sauna on the premises. The hotel’s elegant. Hotel Bülow Residenz $$$$ Neustadt One of the finest restorations in Neustadt. Ostra-Allee 33. 01067 Dresden. MC. AE. http://marthahospiz. are on the small side. this luxury boutique hotel is housed in a building that dates from Rates: 140€–250€ ($175–$312) double. modern décor and are well-maintained. Hilton Dresden $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This 333-room hotel across from the Frauenkirche is one of the best (and largest) in eastern Germany.S. www. and Canada. See map p. Bathrooms. Rates: 250€ ($312) double. 01097 Dresden. and Weimar 213 See map p. 211. V. Tram: 4 or 9 to Palaisplatz. Fax: 0351/864-2725. Baby-sitting can be arranged. See map p. Rates include buffet breakfast. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.

Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen $ –$$ Neustadt GERMAN Some 250 diners can fit into the dining rooms in this newly built replica of an old-fashioned beer hall. AE. Fax: 0351/805-1749. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). or 0351/805-1733. See map p. grassy. See map p. V. and Canada. In 1995. www. % 800-937-8461 in the U. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19).m. ostrich steak. sautéed fish with parsley and onions. % 0351/811-990. You find an on-site pool and health club. Children younger than 18 stay for free in their parents’ room. if not spacious. Open: Daily 11 a.m. and salads.214 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany The rooms are large. 01097 Dresden. MC. MC.50€–17€ ($11–$21). The menu features heaping plates of traditional favorites such as roast pork shank. As the night wears on. and roasts. % 0351/490-1188. grilled lamb cutlets. Open: Daily 10 a. Ayers Rock $ –$$ Altstadt AUSTRALIAN This likable Australian restaurant with outdoor tables is famous for its cocktails but also serves German and Aussie beer on tap. the narrow lane that runs north from the Frauenkirche to the river. Rates: 250€–350€ ($312–$437) double. soups. Menu items include kangaroo rump steak. the bar area becomes a crowded singles scene. Tram 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. and DC. DC. 211. Grosse Meissner Strasse 15. AE. Am Brauhaus 8B.–3 a. MC. 211. Dining in Dresden Dresden is bursting with new restaurants of every kind. you can eat and drink to the sounds of an oom-pahpah band. Waldschlösschen beer is brewed on the premises. and the staff can arrange baby-sitting. Tram: 9 from the Hauptbahnhof stops in front of the hotel at Neustädter Markt. AE. The bathrooms have shower units or shower-tub combinations. For a sample of the city’s culinary offerings.m.westin. Main courses: 8. riverside park stretches behind the hotel. Schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets).S. and another 800 can be accommodated within the sprawling beer garden (open Apr–Oct). well-appointed. sausages. you can walk across the river to the Altstadt in ten minutes. . 211. wander down Münzgasse. V.m.–1 a. Café Schinkelwache $ –$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL This sandstone structure in the center of Theaterplatz was built in 1832 by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel to house soldiers and guards. Neustadt (5km/3 miles northeast of city center). On Saturday and Sunday afternoons. See map p. Tram: 11 to Brauhaus am Waldschlösschen. A green. Münzgasse 8. grilled salmon. DC. V.

% 0351/490-3506. MC. Open: Daily 10 a. Fischgalerie $$ –$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD The interior of Dresden’s best fish restaurant is a sophisticated affair with an open-view kitchen. See map p. Fresh sushi is available on Wednesday and Friday nights. and Worcestershire sauce. Tram: 1. beer. V. Fresh seafood dishes may include salmon with champagne sauce. and veal stew. You can also sit and enjoy wine. The menu changes every week. . or bouillabaisse with North Sea fish. The menu typically has dishes such as grilled lamb cutlet with asparagus and sauce béarnaise. AE. 4. Menu selections include pastries. % 0351/498-9836. AE. MC. a bowl of Linseneintopf (lentil stew).Chapter 14: Dresden. Open: Daily 9 a. 7. % 0351/490-3909. Pastries: 2€–5€ ($2. Fixed-price meals: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). or chicken breast fricassee with mustard. Open: Tues–Fri noon to 3 p. Sophienstrasse am Theaterplatz. 12. is a good place to sit outside and eat or have a drink. pastas such as rigatoni with chicken breast. Reservations recommended. Leipzig. and pork goulash with cabbage and dumplings. minimalist design. and a blueblack color scheme. dramatic lighting. and white fish served with tomato-flavored spaghettini. Main courses: 14€–24€ ($17–$30). and Saxon sauerbraten (marinated roast beef).–2 a. AE. meal-size salads.50–$6.50€–12€ ($8–$15). Maxstrasse 2. The menu offers simple but delicious Saxon staples such as a Saxon potato fritter with cheese and strips of smoked salmon. Freiberger Schankhaus $$ Altstadt SAXON/GERMAN This place.25). 2. For dessert try the homemade Quarkkeutchen. with its outside terrace overlooking the newly restored Frauenkirche. and Weimar 215 the building was rebuilt and reconfigured into an intimate cafe with outdoor tables on the terrace (you find a tourist information center around the other side). V. or coffee. Tues–Sat 6–11 p. 11. served with black bread.m. Tram: 11 to Haus der Presse. soups. Main courses: 6. Café zur Frauenkirche $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This street-side corner cafe. 211. are good appetizers. See map p. You can order a salad with turkey strips.. is a good place to perch for a casual meal or dessert and coffee.m. Accompany your meal with a glass of Freiberger Preminium Pils. or 17. cheese. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. 211. a baked dumpling filled with cheese and raisins. to midnight.m. 211. located directly across from the Frauenkirche. Fresh oysters and marinated herring. An der Frauenkirche 5. See map p. MC. crepes with mushrooms and chicken. V. 8.m. 14. Main courses: 9€–18€ ($11–$23).m. scampi.

and so do the waitresses in their traditional German dresses. wild boar. Rossini $$$ Altstadt ITALIAN Rossini offers fine Italian cuisine in a stylish. AE. See map p. MC.m.or oven-roasted marinated beef). 211. Taschenberg 3. Pastries: 4–6.m. See map p.m. dress-up.–1 a. The Café. completely smokefree setting. MC. veal in thyme sauce with tomato fettuccine. 211. served with asparagus and roast potatoes. an upscale Italian eatery on the top floor with an outdoor balcony overlooking Theaterplatz. “August’s Hunting Trophy”: roasted medallions of venison. % 0351/498-160. one floor above the lobby of the Dresden Hilton. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. once housed Italian workers. Bellotto. and juniper sauce. erected on the site of a cluster of cottages (“the Italian Village”). See map p.50€–15€ ($8–$18). You can order dishes such as grilled rabbit with thyme or trout fried in butter. Italianisches Dörfchen (Italian Village) $$ Altstadt ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL This quartet of restaurants in a neoclassical building. Reservations recommended.m. Theaterplatz. 211. DC.m. % 0351/864-2855. MC. Menu items may include homemade ravioli with arugula and cheese. . % 0351/500-4347. The Bierkeller (beer hall) with a painted ceiling serves traditional dishes such as Sauerbraten (pot.216 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. Neumarkt 8 (in the Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe). % 0351/497-260. is a good place for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake). a graceful-looking room with windows that overlook the river. AE. or lamb with applewine sauce and polenta. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. Open: Daily 6–11:30 p. DC. Main courses: 11€–20€ ($14–$25). V. Open: Daily 11 a. Open: Daily 11 a. V.m. Flickering candles set beneath vaulted ceilings provide suitable atmosphere. AE. called Dirndls. Open: Daily 10 a. Main courses: 19€–29€ ($24–$36). An der Frauenkirche 5 (in the Dresden Hilton). AE.50€ ($5–$8). Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. 211.–11 p. V. MC. red-walled Weinzimmer (wine room). or you may want to try the famous house specialty. DC. Main courses: 6. as does the formal. Each of the four restaurants has a different theme. Sophienkeller im Taschenbergpalais $$ Altstadt GERMAN The food in this famous cellar restaurant is a modern approximation of a medieval feast. serves dishes such as risotto with artichokes and radicchio and veal scaloppini. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). The restaurant has a menu in English to help you make up your mind. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. V. For dessert try the tiramisu with bananas or sorbet with champagne and fruit. to midnight.

and Weimar 217 Dinner with a view For a fun. The German/Saxon menu features traditional dishes such as potato soup with sausages. The funicular runs from 6 a. early 19th-century) period. easy. On the other side.m. taking up two floors. A money-saving Tageskarte (day ticket) gets you into all four museums in the Zwinger complex.” earlier in this chapter. is another money-saving option that includes all public transportation. the Neustadt quarter has Germany’s largest concentration of houses from the Gründerzeit (Biedermeier. to 9 p.Chapter 14: Dresden. at Trachtenbergerstrasse 40.m. take Tram 8 to Schillerplatz and walk across the famous Blaue Wunder bridge. starting with moody works by Caspar David . Leipzig. Bergbahnstrasse 8 (% 0351/214-9960). The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a. a restaurant with an outdoor terrace offering wonderful panoramic views of the Elbe River and Dresden in the distance.skd-dresden. you’ll see the Standseilbahn. Exploring Dresden You find all of Dresden’s major attractions in the relatively compact Altstadt. de. First. and the Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (all described in this section).m. the Neues Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault). and costs 3€ ($3. For more information on all of Dresden’s major museums.). www.and 20th-century art. to 1 a. the historic center.m. The Neustadt quarter on the north bank of the Elbe is another area you may want to visit. The restaurant accepts MasterCard and Visa. The Dresden Card.m. for 10€ ($13) adults. take one of Dresden’s old funiculars (mountain railways) up to the top of a hill in the suburb of Loschwitz and dine in a pleasant restaurant overlooking the city. Take the funicular to the top. Albertinum Altstadt Between 1884 and 1887. Sunday from 10 a. is a rich collection of 19th. described under “Finding Information. 4€ ($5) children and seniors.m. a residential area called Weisser Hirsch. The collection concentrates on German art.. and memorable dining experience.–2 p. The Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister (New Masters Gallery). Main courses go for 10€ to 17€ ($12–$22). visit the Web site of the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden (State Art Collections). and Sauerbraten with cabbage and dumplings. a funicular that began operation in 1895. but relax with a glass of beer or wine and enjoy the view of Dresden’s spires. Although you won’t find the museum attractions of the Altstadt here.75) round-trip. the Saxon King Albert converted this former royal arsenal into a home for his vast collection of art and precious jewelry.m. The service can be slow. Across the street from the station is Luisenhof. to midnight (brunch 10 a.

Neumarkt. the great German Romantic artist. each requiring a separate admission. and priceless porcelain. featuring a larger selection of the collection (no tours allowed. Once again this baroque church dominates the historic center of Dresden. Allow yourself at least an hour to browse this treasure-trove (be prepared for crowds). Brühl Terrace. Two collections are open for viewing. enjoy one of the 3 18th-century objects. the Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Historic Green Vault) opened. bronze statuettes. and all your belongings must be checked before entering). a brilliant painter who ran afoul of the Nazis. The reopening of the church was an event of major symbolic importance. for performance information. including rococo chests.m. The Neues Grünes Gewölbe (New Green Vault) features ten rooms of selected masterworks from the huge collection of 16th. and going up to the brilliant works of Dresden-born Otto Dix (1891–1969). the Frauenkirche on the southeast side of Neumarkt (New Market Square) was the most important Protestant church in Germany and had one of the most famous domes in Europe. The 1945 Allied bombing of Dresden destroyed 80 percent of the city. The new golden cross atop the dome. an exact replica of the 18th-century original.. % 0351/6560-670. Open: Daily. see the Web site. 211. Unless you’re an objet d’art nut. Sunday concerts (8€/$ 10). Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) Altstadt Built between 1726 and 1743. See map p. 211. but the paintings in the New Masters Gallery unfortunately won’t be on view until the Albertinum reopens. if you want it. See map p. but it was moved to this new location in September 2004. and as of press time there was no scheduled date for its reopening. Note: This great collection closed in January 2006 for major redesign work. A painstaking restoration project began in 1993 and was finally completed in 2006. But there’s more. % 0351/491-4619. In September 2006. intricately designed mirrors. or 8 to Rathenau Platz. step inside the brilliant white interior to admire the immaculate restoration work. this dazzling selection of highlights will more than satisfy your curiosity. 7. The Historic . Tram: 3. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz. generally 10 a. Allot at least an hour to see the highlights. The sculpture collection has been moved to the Zwinger (see later in this section). Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) Altstadt The fabulous assortment of treasures displayed in the Residenzschloss formerly was housed in the Albertinum. Currently closed. and take advantage of the free audio guide. After the war. was built by the son of a British bomber pilot who took part in the original bombing raid.m. including the Frauenkirche. the East German government let the charred ruin remain as a memorial.218 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Friedrich. Admission: Free. Even better.m. to noon and 1–6 p. except during Sunday concerts. gold jewelry. ivory carvings.

M. D.).m. He wanted the Zwinger to be his Versailles and a place where he could show off his incredible art collections. elector of Saxony and king of Poland. 3. 7. you can see the crypt with the tombs of 49 kings and princes of Saxony.75) adults. Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.–6 p. is the largest church in Saxony.) bell tower decorated with statues of saints and apostles. 211. Pöppelmann (1662–1736). Admission: Free. carvings. Inside. Sat 10 a.–4 p. (Historic Green Vault until 7 p. designed a series of galleries and domed pavilions to enclose a large rectangular courtyard with formal gardens.–4:30 p.m. Leipzig. See map p. See map p. Open: Mon–Fri 9 a. and folk costumes. fountains. the church was constructed in a lavish Italian baroque style with a curving facade and 86m (282-ft. % 0351/803-0817.50) children and students. or 51 to Carolaplatz. % 0351/495-1133. What you see are everyday objects used by the common folk — a far cry from the gem-encrusted treasures in the Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault. Frederick Augustus II (ruled 1733–1763). 8. Admission: 3€ ($3.50) adults. Trinitas.50€ ($4. Museum für Sächsische Volkskunst (Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts) Neustadt The oldest Renaissance building in Dresden.m. available in advance by calling % 0351/4911-9285 or online at www. the 16th-century Jägerhof (Hunters Court) houses this fine collection of regional folk art.skddresden. and Weimar 219 Green Vault can only be visited with a prebooked timed-entry ticket. with its graceful fountains and mythological figures. % 0351/4914-2000. also known as the Cathedral of St. and promenades. pottery. Tram: 3. The architect. The semicircular Wallpavillon at the west end and the adjacent Nymphenbad (Bath of Nymphs). Schlossplatz. are notable buildings that rely on the exuberant sculptures of the Bavarian artist Balthasar Permoser . Tram: 4 or 8 to Theaterplatz.m.–6 p. Jägerhof. Sun noon to 4 p.m.m. Historic Green Vault 12€ ($14).m.Chapter 14: Dresden. Built by the son of Augustus the Strong. On display are pieces of painted furniture. 211. Admission: New Green Vault 6€ ($7. 2€ ($2.50) seniors and children. Kopckestrasse 1. You need about 15 minutes to look around.. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. Zwinger Altstadt Augustus the Strong.. hand-woven baskets.m. and Christmas decorations from the nearby Erzgebirge region. Katholische Hofkirche (Catholic Court Church) Altstadt The restored Hofkirche. 211.m. built this magnificent baroque palace in 1719.m. described earlier). Also shown are toys. See map p. Open: Daily 10 a. tableware. Residenzschloss. Sophienstrasse.

Chinese. to the left of the Wallpavillon. Selections from the Skulpturen-Sammlung (Sculpture Collection) formerly housed in the Albertinum are now on view in the Zwinger in the ground floor of the Französischer Pavillon (French Pavilion. % 0351/491-4622. Vermeer. Depending on your interest. Again. Gottfried Semper added the pavilion in 1846.25) adults. with its entrance in the Glockenspiel Pavillon (Carillon Pavillion). Theaterplatz 1. you can see a small but superlative collection of armor and weapons from the 15th to 18th centuries. You save money with a Tageskarte (Day Ticket). Canaletto’s views of Dresden are so true to life that they were used as reference works during the post-WWII reconstruction of the city. this entire complex of buildings contains a stunning collection of museums. has as its showpiece Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. and the Museum of Saxon Arts and Crafts. The “giant animal room” on the second floor has a collection of 18th-century Meissen animals. and German paintings by Van Dyck. Admission is 6€ ($ 7. 2€ ($ 2. entrance in the courtyard). On the northeast side is the Semper Gallery. Admission is 5€ ($ 6.220 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany (1651–1732). In the Rüstkammer (Armory). you can spend 15 minutes or an hour. Dürer.50€ ($ 4.m. 2.–6 p.75) for adults. or 8 to Postplatz.50) adults. 5€ ($ 6. Admission is 5€ ($ 6. On the west side of the Zwinger. 20€ ($ 25) for a family. displays Japanese. you find the Mathematische-Physikalischer Salon (Salon of Mathematics and Physics).m. and Rembrandt. a separate section of the Semper Gallery. depending on your interest level. starting with the ancient cultures of the Mediterranean region through all epochs of European sculpture to the present. you can see everything in under half an hour.m. See map p. the Green Vault. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection).25) adults. with all manner of clocks and scientific instruments of the 16th to 19th centuries. This gallery. Tram: 2. The collection includes examples from over five millennia. Give yourself about 15 minutes to wander through. They all are open the same hours — Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. you find a series of detailed townscapes of Dresden painted by Canaletto in the mid 18th century. Today. 211. Rubens. The collection also includes Flemish. Admission is 3€ ($ 3. and Meissen porcelain from the 18th and 19th centuries. to 6 p. 3. 4.50) children and seniors. In galleries two through four.m. one of the best in the world. The entrance is directly across from the entrance to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister. a Renaissancestyle two-story pavilion linked by one-story galleries. — but charge separate admission prices. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.50) for children and seniors.75) for adults. . good for all Zwinger museums.25) children and seniors.50€ ($ 3) for children and seniors. Dutch. Allow at least two hours for unhurried browsing. The most important museum is the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) in the Semper Gallery (entrance at Theaterplatz 1).50) for children and seniors. it costs 10€ ($ 13) for adults. 2€ ($ 2. Admission is 3€ ($ 3.

accessible via Hauptstrasse 17–19 (Tram: 9). to 3 p. Kleine Brüdergasse 5 (% 0351/862-1230.Chapter 14: Dresden. and Altmarkt.m. is the best-stocked and most interesting gift Zwinger- graben . and Weimar 221 The Zwinger Wallpavillon Mathematische– Physikalischer Salon Nymphenbad Julian–Grimau–Allee Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Picture Gallery) Theaterplatz Rüstkamner (Armory) Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection) Glockenspielpavillon Kronentor Shopping in Dresden Dresden’s main shopping streets are Prager Strasse. where you find department stores Wilsdruffer Strasse. The best shops Weihnachtsland am Zwinger. More-exclusive shops reside in Neustadt on the north side of the river on Königstrasse and Hauptstrasse. beneath the Albertbrücke (bridge) (Tram: 1 or 4). A Trödelmarkt (flea market) is open Saturdays from 9 a.m. In Neustadt. Leipzig. in the Altstadt. Tram: 4 or 8). you find many high-quality antiques dealers lining both sides of a lane called Am Goldenen Reiter.

The theater is closed during August. in the Altmarkt (% 0351/48660. Several operas by Richard Wagner and Richard Strauss had their premieres in this house. Tickets cost 11€ to 40€ ($14–$50). is one of the world’s great opera houses. If you’re an opera buff. This December event. can be a highlight of your trip. and Easter ornaments from the nearby Erzgebirge region. Discovering nightlife in Dresden Dresden is the cultural center of Saxony. or 7). www. Tram: 4 or 8). indigo-printed cloth and pottery from Lusatia. and blown-glass tree decorations from Lauscha. Its hand-painted objects are the most charming and interesting in Dresden. Bus: 72 or 76). seeing a performance by the resident company. The opera and ballet season lasts from September to mid-July. Theaterplatz 2 (% 0351/4911705. Postplatz (% 0351/491-350. dance. The main stage for classical theater in the city is the Schauspielhaus. Anything you buy can be shipped. where actors perform dramas by Goethe.semperoper. Tickets for classical concerts. you can find classical concerts. the Sächsisches Oper (Saxon Opera). New Year’s. Ticket prices range from 8€ to 78€ ($10–$97). so many and varied nightlife options always are available. selling handmade Christmas. which began in 1434. and Shakespeare.dresdnerphilharmonie. filigree lace from 2. takes place in the Altmarkt and features handmade regional crafts and gift items and homemade foods. Summer concerts take place in the courtyards of the Zwinger. which was built in the mid 19th century and twice rebuilt. .222 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany shop in Dresden. Look for woodcarvings from the Erzgebirge Mountains. Schiller. The oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Dresden is Wehsener Porzellan. Opera and classical concerts The Semperoper (Semper Opera House). Tickets are 10€ to 25€ ($13–$31). 4. Tram: 13. and opera are available from the tourist information centers on Prager Strasse and Theaterplatz. or just a good place to relax with a glass of wine or a beer. rock shows. You can also take a free tour of the studios and factory. Advent stars from Hermhut. Depending on your tastes. The famous Christmas market Dresden’s Weihnachtsmarkt (also called the Striezelmarkt) is the oldest Christmas market in Germany. gingerbread from Pulsnitz. Tram 1. 5km (3 miles) southeast of the center at Donaustrasse 72 (% 0351/4707340. www. Tram: 3 or 5). The Dresden Philharmonic performs at the Kulturpalast.

located at the confluence of the Weisse Elster and Pleisse rivers. giant rocks. Louisenstrasse 10 (% 0351/801-1739. is open daily from 7 p.” for its role in toppling the former Communist government of East Germany. From May into October.. and Weimar 223 Sailing through Saxon Switzerland If you have the time. 8. Visiting Leipzig is worth the trip to see a proud East German city rediscovering and redefining itself after years of Communist rule. on weekends. Although it doesn’t look like much. and sheer sandstone cliffs.m. % 0351/ 866-090) runs several trips on historic paddle-wheelers and modern boats through a scenic region known as Sächsisches Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland). online at www. the esplanade that runs along the south bank of the river. until the last person leaves. or 11).) With a population of about 450. I recommend that you take a boat trip along the Elbe River.saechsische-dampfschiffahrt.m. Cover is 4€ ($5). low-key bar without intrusive music.m. Leipzig. Leipzig has long been a major cultural and commercial force in Saxony.m. is called a Heldenstadt. Böhmische Strasse 34 (% 0351/804-5706.m. Louisenstrasse 20 (% 0351/8013187. Tram: 3. The upstairs cafe at Planwirtschaft. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. Alaunstrasse 100 (% 0351/801-3957. Tram: 7. to 2 a.Chapter 14: Dresden.m. The round-trip cost is 18€ ($22) per person. is open from 9 a. Leipzig: City of Heroes Historic Leipzig. Other routes travel to Meissen and through Bohemia. 8. where you see castle-crowned hilltops.. Elbe cruises leave from the dock below Brühl Terrace. Bars and clubs Café Hieronymous. Katherinenstrasse 11–13 (% 0351/802-8801. Tram: 7 or 8).m.000 people. Monday is gay and lesbian night. and home to a famous university . in English. or “city of heroes. open daily from 5 p. A dance club with room for everyone is DownTown and Groove Station. deep gorges.m. 5. and on Sunday you find dinner and dancing. the downstairs bar stays open until 3 a. The Sächsische Dampfschiffahrtsgesellschaft (Saxon Excursion Boat Company. The place is open Monday to Friday from 11 a. a small. Leipzig is only a little smaller than Dresden.m. The club is open daily from 9 p. 7. Tram: 7 or 8). to 1 a. Raskolnikoff. a center of publishing. Die 100.m. to 2 a. or 11). daily excursions depart for the Saxon Switzerland route. is a trendy drinking place set in a cellar and popular with students and artists. Food and drink are for sale onboard. Tram: 7 or 8). to 3 a. is a hip dive with sand-covered floors. (See the “Leipzig” map in this The trips take from 3 to 41⁄2 hours. to 2 a. You can check out all the Elbe excursions.

111km (68 miles) to the northwest.224 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany with some 20. The fare is 8€ ($10). and 30-minute taxi ride to the city center costs about 30€ ($37). and Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig in 1813. The 25. trade fairs have played an important role in the city’s life. a new commercial flash point for cafes. Dresden (about 11⁄2–2 hours). By car Leipzig is connected to the A9 (Berlin–Munich) and the A14 (Halle– Dresden) Autobahns. B184) pass by or skirt Leipzig. . B6. But people in Leipzig are much more interested in looking forward than looking back. Willy-Brandt-Platz. The Flughafen (Airport) Express train runs between the airport and the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station) every 30 minutes from 4:30 a. shops. The recently restored Hauptbahnhof is one of the most happening places in Leipzig. Leipzig-Halle International Airport (% 0341/224-1155. Mozart and Mendelssohn performed here. B95. call Deutsche Bahn at % 11861 or visit www.m. and much of the city is rebuilt or being rebuilt. to midnight. A number of federal highways (B2. By train The Leipzig Hauptbahnhof (main train station). For centuries. You can easily get there from anywhere in Germany. www. Getting there Leipzig has all the transportation options of a major city: an airport. trip time is 14 minutes. You can easily visit Leipzig as a daytrip from Dresden.000 students. By plane Several airlines link Leipzig to major German cities. and to other European destinations. Trains arrive daily from Berlin (about 21⁄2 hours).bahn. and its skyscrapers and nightlife give the city a cosmopolitan flair that’s unique for this region. Leipzig also is a city with many great musical traditions. or you may want to spend the night in this lively Saxon metropolis. and Frankfurt (5 hours). and some Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings and arcades from the early 20th century. including the famed Gewandhaus Orchestra. Leipzig was heavily bombed by British and American forces in 1943. B87. and a good road is the largest on the Continent. You still find some narrow streets and houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. B181. Johann Sebastian Bach is closely associated with Leipzig. a train lies 11km (7 miles) northwest of the city center.leipzig-airport. such as Munich and Frankfurt. For information and train schedules.

Katharinenstrasse Schwanenteich markt Augustusplatz Univers 14 Neu- Universität Leipzig Grimmai scher Steinweg Georg iring Burgplatz atz Schil lerstr asse pl Ro Go ss ldsc Str ass hm e t r. m str Frankfurt Bee t h o v e Munich ATTRACTIONS Bach-Museum 8 Grasssi Museum 16 Museum der Bildenden Künste 3 Museum für Kunsthandwerk 14 Museum für Völkerkunde 11 Museum in der Runden Ecke 5 MusikinstrumentenMuseum 10 Nikolaikirche 15 Thomaskirche 9 Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig 13 . and Weimar 225 Leipzig t er-S ach hum t-Sc Kur 1 0 0 100 meters 0. tmbold Hu Hauptbahnhof 2 Tröndlinring RichardWagnerPlatz Richard-Wagner-Strasse Brühl Sachsenplatz 3 4 Ric erd ele rrin g ha rd- Gr.1 mile N Parthenstrasse Uferstrasse strasse Nordstrasse Pfaffendorfer strasse Information Railway i r. Ritterstr asse 5 asse Hain str. Gerberst r.L u t h Neues Opernhaus Petersstrasse Burgstrass Sch Johannisplatz uls tra e sse Neues Gewandhaus 16 idts tras se . ün ew al d s rnb erg . Fleischer g ass Reichsstrasse Nikolaistrasse WillyBrandtPlatz Wa gn erStr ass e i Brü hl Go e Goet hestr Barfu 6 e itätsstr. z-Str h n it Tauc er- Gr Nü ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Fürstenhof 2 Leipzig Marriott Hotel 4 The Westin Leipzig 1 DINING Apels Garten 6 Auerbachs Keller 12 Paulaner Palais 7 Di ttr ich rin g Mart i n . Leipzig.Chapter 14: Dresden. Alte Waage Marktplatz ssg ässch. Alte Börse Markt 7 Naschmarkt Altes 15 Rathaus Gr as im maische S om 8 Th sse tr asse ga 11 12 13 9 KönigsMädler10 haus passag Klosterg.Ri Rossplatz ng Hamburg Berlin er Leipzig GERMANY am Main Dimitroffstrasse nstrasse ind nW ühle .

m. Rates: 265€– 300€ ($331–$375) double.arabellasheraton.m. within easy walking distance of the train station and just across from the new museum of fine arts. and bus network. Tröndlinring 8. you can easily walk from the train station to all the attractions in the Altstadt (Old Town).m. this hotel has 92 rooms redecorated to reflect the original neoclassical styling. . AE. SBahn (surface trains). If you travel to Leipzig during those periods.m. but that’s the point. usually the first week in September and the second week in March. LVB (% 0172/1000000.m. 04105 Leipzig. and the bathrooms all have tub/shower combinations. You can purchase tickets from automated machines at the stops. Tram: 15. for 12€ ($15). MC. Getting around Leipzig If you arrive by train for a daytrip. open Monday through Friday from 9 a. The friendly. The rejuvenated bathrooms are nicely done and have a combination tub and shower. Saturday 9 a. The lobby will be reconfigured and all the rooms freshened up in 2007 (the hotel’s tenth anniversary).m.. is a major plus. to 6 p.m. The tourist office offers a 90-minute city-sightseeing tour daily at 11 a. DC. www. to 2 p. See map p. Leipzig is the site of huge trade fairs that bring in tens of thousands of visitors. to 4 p. and the breakfast buffet is great. and Sunday 9 a. % 800-426-3135 in the U. The commentary is in German only. An Einzelfahrkarte (single ticket) in “Zone Leipzig” costs www. Fax: 0341/140-3700. Fares are based on zones.. reliable choice for leisure or business travelers (it tends to attract more business travelers because of the array of amenities and executive-level services it offers).de). An on-site health club has a pool and a sauna. runs the city’s tram. www. Richard-WagnerStrasse 1 (% 0341/710-4260.60€ ($2). Leipzig Marriott Hotel $ –$$$ City Center Fans of Marriott hotels won’t find any surprises in this one. You can also book a hotel room here and purchase tickets for concerts and sightseeing tours.226 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Finding information and taking a tour Pick up a city map at the tourist information office. 225. Rooms are comfortable and good-sized (with beds that beat the Westin’s for comfort).leipzig. booking your room in advance is or 0341/1400. Staying in Leipzig Twice a year.lvb. Hotel Fürstenhof $$$$ City Center Housed in a historic 18th-century building. V. helpful service here is a real recommendation. the public transit authority. the location. The Leipzig Marriott is a good.

-Körner-Str. f Merseburger Str. m e e n S Strbf. Platz S-B Hohe Str. Taucha s 12 n 14 Taucha ck 9 r e e a d Gohlislle m Beyerleinstr.Liebermann-Str. Connewitz s 5 Wildpark Klemmur. str Theresienstr. 4 S-Bahn Prager/Riebeck Str. Chapter 14: Dresden. . Lützowstr.Westplatz ten er Breite Str. Marienbrunn c Prager/Russenstr. . G Fe No str r A her Riebeck-/Oststr. Ku Zs Wiedebach. zs Menckestr. Marschner-C tze lsru M it z na r Stö aue est aus str. u ta t Gohlis. Krankenhaus Thekla Bis er W . Paunsdorf. Barnecker Str. Kreuz hw Str Völkerschlachtdenkmal pl. . Stu höna to Connewitz. ke z . Sommerfeld tö ne -Eis . t n i t i b Landsberger/M. O kt . lle Str erg Ri Ein Saturnstr. Coppistr.Jo pl r. Böhlitz-Ehrenberg Heisenbergstr. Probstheida Triftweg S-Bf. H. Völkerschlachtdenkmal R. Paunsdorf-Nord Paunsdorf-Nord Südstr. Gohlis S-Bf. r c fm Trams rf ka zm /G m tz M st ar er/R s K o e a a a e z . . r z e F L 11 lit rk est Markkleeberg-West ö e D l w m e 12 r k u 9 se Se in pe as 13 hw tr. W lip c s i h E 11 14 ow Sc rg g m h r 3 A irc be be st Großstädteln. E s r Hauptl v Str. .-Schwarz-/L.-Liebknecht-/ S-Bf. Virchow-/ Mosenthinstr. Karolusstr. B W R K St L -B Bayrischer S . Teslastr. P -Platz S-B S-B Str. ns r Moritz-Hof 7 tte r ze tr. u r s r platz S-Bf. Volbedingstr. Körnerstr. . . en diu Lind iet urg Heinßers t r n e i r t n a r e e r Gutenbergplatz n S n . Ar t Roseggerstr.. Landsberger Str. e e e e t h r a K.-Lehmann-Str. ritz rü ilti Wilh. r r .ie ll z ls te r tte Neues Rathaus He erse rit tr. Hermelinstr. k zs or str eri 10 oß nd Ring ed ine i Gr Wi r.nze Curschmannstr. T. Mockau. 4 3 18 dt rm Herwegh-Str. e r r r r n n Str. Leutzsch Bautzner Str. 12 1 Südplatz Stieglitzstr. hk tzs ah tsc aetz Delitzscher/Essener Str. ma Ost Th. r a t a schlößchen a S m st l 8 15 Zoo 7 8 18 au rb Am Vorwerk -P -St tr. t Meusdorf Parkstr. Elster-Passage S1 S Johannisallee Holbeinstr. Dessauer Str. Permoser/Torgauer c G. en ue Ostplatz St ö tte r S r. e le ue K. Wielandstr. Rathaus Str rn S tr Apelstr.Bar Merseburger aue rbrü Bf. G ee Bf. hk Mod Hän str. Schönefeld. Ossietzky-/ a tr.-Eisner-/ S1 Altes Messegelände A. Post Taucha. lat hn Str. d u Gottschallc h s e m o m e ic ir h 1 S. Hermelinstr. Anger-Crottendorf S lle sst ena e-/ tr. G t . g i r f t n t R. R .Waldplatz Sportforum Leibnizstr. r S Str.-Schumann-/ Wilheminenstr. Engelsdorf S3 eri Re Köh Goerdelerring Augustus. chb uer ee er A der S-Bf. Diakonissenhaus s . Mockauer/Volbedingstr.A ll f. Hohentichelnstr. t Leuschner f f Stötteritzer Clara-Zetkin-Park B ü S Witzgallstr. 10 Eutritzscher Markt 11 Portitzer Allee Döringstr. V l l l k k k 16 rk ut M a a Borna To S1 M 18 Kn 227 Leipzig S-Bahn .-Eisner Str. eis tr.-Schwarz-/ n u he H s c H r ba Se Fr. eg z. Sommerfeld Rathaus Leutzsch r S platz W t Am Mückenn nn n S-Bf. r Raschwitz Forsthaus Markleeberg. s u z ö Permoserstr. St st rst lle lst Str -St ge An den Tierkliniken us ta A. Kirche a el di elw hen er h ud tr. Hamburger Schönefeld. Hu Dantestr. G tz a ner A n Nord z itz z . resl eiß ath olm ötte .A. Mockau.-Segerr.-H Str. Coppiplatz Eutritzscher Zentrum 7 Friedrichshafner Str.-Lehmann-/ ch Naunhofer Str. S-Bf. ö K Na tr. ue r. Sc Fre Al Lü Sta St Viertelsweg P Sc Pittlerstr. and Weimar Wiederitzsch-Mitte Neue Messe Messegelände 16 GeorgDachauer Str. Ph. Paunsdorf Borsdorf S-Bf.14 K. S3 Rödelstr. thaler Str. ar eg Eutritzsch. b M t s i a ö l . Forstweg e LindenG. tzs gelKoburger Brücke 4 Hildebrandstr.-Heine-/ le e Roßplatz Riebeck/ str. yg L. Pfeffingerstr. R b K. ha Str. er / M f.-Hupfeld-Str. . Lortzinge M G.. vd ew isbahnhof h rk Lin A EdlichPlo Ki Am Sc Pa Grü Saa nn tsw nit str str. 1 n ie ar . Ka Al zn lagw . bahnhof m ist erts ieb L. Annaberger Str.-Lampel-Str. ns G.-Lehmann-Str. 2 An Sc uer Sc Südfriedhof 3 Mathildenstr. a i e Kir ön al nau rlän Lindenau de ng To Wurzen Jupiterstr. S-Bf. Bahnhof 15 ee ee O . Markranstäder Str. L cke bein enb NordS-B ied Stallbaumstr.-NA. tr.-Liebknecht-/ Deutsche Bücherei 2 . h c c s ns 2 15 10 16 ho f 9 a e c Bahnhof Markkleeberg. Chauseehaus Str. tr. Wahren Heiterblick.-Jahn-Str. Thomaskirche .-HoffmannK.-Liebknecht-Platz e Pfingstweide Gorkistr. R r i o H tt D tz K u sd R. . O. p r Paunsdorf-Center f Volksgarten ke erh sstr ims euss ras Miltitz f e l L L g l F t o . K. Paunsdorfer Allee/ Fr.. h t Ku str.-Hoffmann-/ Ad nn er-/ nnße se er r A atze bo y a r s l e e La per u e i . tr. Leipzig. u i Lößnig H he 8 w S tr. Strbf. Hornbach Baumarkt e el Freiligrathstr.-Schumann-/ Möchern Hist. ke cher er t Str. Zwickauer Str.-Schmidt-Str. str. Wittenberger Str.-Reis-Str. Meu Str. ch ud ler ha atz S-Bf. An der Märchenwiese 6 . Ahornstr. Industriegelände West rs z a e t ch e S3 Hauptt . Wiebelstr.

Rates include breakfast buffet. 6. Reservations recommended. 225. Although more robust than refined. the cuisine is good. Specialties include Saxon potato soup with wurst. The restaurant Brühl serves traditional German food. Not all rooms have been upgraded (the new ones are on the highest floors). or 0341/9880.S. This full-service hotel contains a health club. Open: Mon– Sat 11:30 a.–3:30 p. and pork steaks. 04105 Leipzig. www. Rates: 145€–235€ ($181–$294) double. The hotel is a convenient five-minute walk from the train station. 225. and one of its finest modern hotels. The décor is nostalgically oldfashioned. to midnight. 225.228 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany See map p. Fax: 0341/965-3999. and has room service. 8. Main courses: 7. Apels Garten $ –$$ GERMAN/SAXON This restaurant. roast duck with and within easy walking distance of all the sights in the Altstadt. but this city is not particularly well known for its culinary scene. when Westin took over and began redecorating the 447 rooms in a sleek. Tram: 3. filling ingredients. 04109 Leipzig. V. Kolonnadenstrasse 2. Gerberstrasse 15. 10. and www. with its painted ceiling. % 0341/960-7777. Rates: 99€–164€ ($124–$205) double. MC.S. Auerbachs Keller $ –$$ SAXON/INTERNATIONAL A group of sculpted bronze characters from Goethe’s play Faust adorns the staircase leading down to this famous medieval cellar restaurant where Goethe had Faust debate Mephistopheles. V.m. Sun 10 a.m. while Yamato is one of the best places in Leipzig for Japanese food. or 13. V. See map p. % 800-327-0200 in the U. MC. AE. but the old ones are comfortably furnished and have good-sized bathrooms with shower-tub combinations. % 800/426-3135 in the U.50€–16€ ($10–$20). The menu features regional cuisine of Saxony. the 27-story Westin reflects the Leipzig of today. Am Hallischen Tor 1. Tram: 4 or 6. See map p. AE. Guests have a choice of the Historic Rooms (dinner only) or the Big Room (lunch and dinner). You can dine out on the porch in warm weather. in a quiet Leipzig neighborhood close to the Altstadt. pool. or 0341/96530. is known for its home-style German food. Regional cooking favors hearty portions and simple. Tram: 4.westin. such as . Dining in Leipzig More restaurants are opening in Leipzig all the time.m. AE. MC. DC. The Westin Leipzig $$$ –$$$$ City Center One of the city’s tallest buildings. Fax: 0341/988-1229. The restaurant is named after one of the old pleasure gardens that used to adorn Leipzig. It was an Inter-Continental hotel until 2003. 11. contemporary style. and sauna.

m. A short walk leads to the pastel baroque houses along Katharinenstrasse and the Brühl. to midnight. Exploring Leipzig Bombing in 1943 destroyed about one-quarter of Leipzig. has a restaurant and a more casual pub section. the city’s best-known square. Grimmaischestrasse 2–4. . where Bach served as choirmaster for 27 years. along with a selection of international dishes. The only beer they serve is the Munich-brewed Paulaner Bier. popular restaurant. Renaissance Altes Rathaus. See map p.Chapter 14: Dresden. Leipzig. The menu emphasizes boiled meats such as Tafelspitz (beef) with heavy sauces.m.) In the neighboring Naschmarkt. Klostergasse 3–5. behind a statue of Goethe as a student. to midnight. or Rostbratwurst (roasted sausages) from Nuremberg. % 0341/216-100. Reservations recommended. Across from this house. Tram: 4 or 6. but you can also get Saxon Sauerbraten. V. gabled. with curving stairs and stucco garlands above the windows. Big Room daily 11:30 a. Open: Historic Rooms Mon–Sat 6 p. AE. on the south side of the square. AE. and Weimar 229 warmes Bratenneckchen (roasted pork on brown bread with a pepper dip). The city has placed more of an emphasis on constructing the new than on restoring the old. Main courses: 8€–19€ ($10–$24).m. To the west rises the high-pitched roof of the 1. each offering the same menu. Open: Daily 11 a. where demonstrators for democracy gathered in 1989. Kids enjoy the underground atmosphere and usually can find something on the menu to their liking. The summer courtyard within the building is the nicest place to dine. % 0341/211-3115. a famous arcade of shops and restaurants. (Peter the Great of Russia and Napoleon also stayed there. Thomas Church).000-year-old Thomaskirche (St. home of Auerbachs Keller (see “Dining in Leipzig” earlier in this chapter). Reconstructed on the north side of the square is the step-gabled Renaissance Alte Waage (Old Weighing House). Most of the old and the new Leipzig that has appeal for visitors is concentrated in the Zentrum (City Center). To the south of Marktplatz is the Mädlerpassage. V. 225. Weisswurst (steamed pork sausage) from Munich. See map p. MC. housed in an 18th-century rococo building. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). Remnants of old Leipzig have been reconstructed around the Markt. completed in 1687. the Alte Börse was the first baroque building in Leipzig. easily walked area south of the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). to midnight. The Universität Leipzig (Leipzig University) occupies the area south of Grimmaisch-Strasse. once used by the rulers of Saxony as a royal guesthouse. Reservations recommended for dinner in Historic Rooms. Mädlerpassage. 225. Tram: 4 or 6. Nicholas Church). stands the yellow-and-white Alte Börse (Old Produce Exchange). Paulaner Palais $ GERMAN/BAVARIAN/AUSTRIAN This large. Just east of the Marktplatz is the 12thcentury Nikolaikirche (St. is the Königshaus (King’s House). a small. DC. MC. On the east side of the square is the long.

Look for the extremely rare. Sat 2 p. The immense and not very attractive new opera house occupies the north side of the square. Matthew.m. the Grassi Museum. if you love Bach.bach-leipzig. www. ߜ The Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Applied Arts Museum. Carl Philipp Emanuel. the Neues Gewandhaus concert hall stands on the south. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. Bach-Museum This reconstructed house standing in the shadow of the Thomaskirche once was home to the Bose family. Johann Christian. on Johannis-Platz just east of the www. serves as the cultural heart of modern Leipzig.bach-leipzig. the three museums in the Grassi complex are scheduled to reopen in 2007. during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche and other venues around Bach wrote more than 200 cantatas. S. and the Mass in B Minor.m. ethnography. and 3 p. and stayed for the rest of his life. friends of J. See map p. Bach was the father of no fewer than 17 children (4 by his first wife.m. Sun 11 a.. Tram: 21. % 0341/964-4133. and glassware. 6€ ($7.–5 p.m. Grassi Museum Completed in 1929. Open: Daily 10 a. Thomaskirchhof 16. He came to Leipzig at the age of 38 to be choirmaster and director of the Thomaskirche’s boys’ choir and director of music at Leipzig University. You find beautiful examples of furniture. 225. ߜ The Museum für Völkerkunde (Museum of Ethnography. you’ll be tempted to linger. After years of restoration. jointed doll dating from 1526. 13 with his second). Many mementos of the composer. porcelain.50) family ticket. % 0341/222-9100) displays an array of handmade objects from the Middle Ages up to the early 20th century. The house now contains the largest Bach archive in Germany. % 0341/ 973-1900) displays highlights from the permanent collection of . Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (% 0341/913-7333.m. Bach’s. and musical instruments collections. to the east of the Nikolaikirche and the university. including scores and letters. houses Leipzig’s arts and crafts.. Three of his sons. also became composers. Augustus-Platz.230 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Bach in Leipzig The composer Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750) is Leipzig’s most famous citizen. the Passion According to St.m. Every May. are on display. and Wilhelm Friedemann. Tours: Fri 3 p. In Leipzig. An excellent audio guide in English is included in the price of admission. You can see everything in this small museum in about half an hour.

Open: Tues and Thurs–Sun 10 a.25) adults.m.m. and contemporary works. Tram: 21. % 0341/961-2443.000 demonstrators gathered with candles and began the peaceful revolution that toppled the . neoclassical interior. free on second Sun of the month. 10€ ($13) family ticket. On the nights of December 4 and 5.–6 p.m. Open: Daily 10 a. and Weimar 231 cultural artifacts relating to the peoples of the world. Admission: 5€ ($6. Leipzig. de. or 24. exhibits Italian. Admission: Combined ticket for 2 museums 5€ ($6. confiscating private letters and listening in on phone conversations.m. European art of the 15th and 16th centuries. 21. Museum der Bildenden Künste (Museum of Fine Arts) In late 2005. Admission: Free. On this site in 1989.–6 p. Caspar David Friedrich). mdbk. you may find you’re the only person there. 225. Nicholas Church) The present church was built in the 16th century and has a white.m. or “state security”). the East German Ministry for State Security. Nikolaikirche (St. ߜ The Museum für Musikinstrumente (Musical Instruments Museum. but it also displays Dutch and Flemish art of the 17th century (including a lively Frans Hals). Tram: 3. Tram: 1. and French musical instruments of the 16th to the 19th centuries. Katharinenstrasse 101 (on Sachsenplatz). % 0341/973-0750). local citizens took a giant step toward toppling the government of East Germany when they seized this building. one of Germany’s most important art collections reopened in a new $ 100-million glass-and-steel.runde-ecke-leipzig. 2. www. www. Museum in der Runden Ecke (Stasi Museum) This chillingly fascinating museum is housed in the building that once was the headquarters of the dreaded Stasi (short for Staatssicherheit. 61 years to the day after its original home was destroyed by a bomb in WWII. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.50) children and students. An exhibition called “The Power and Banality of the East German Secret Police” documents the meticulous and paranoid methods by which Stasi agents monitored every exchange of information in East Germany. A nice little cafe is located on the premises (open the same hours as the museum). The new building is a serenely handsome affair that hasn’t quite caught on with the public yet.–6 p. 1989. cube-shaped building on Sachsenplatz. German. Johannisplatz 5–11. The museum is open late on Thursday (until 8 p. See map p. Leipzig’s Museum of Fine Arts is especially strong in German painting of the 19th century (including works by that quintessential Romantic. Allow at least an hour just to stroll through. 15. www.m. considered one of the best of its kind in the world. 225. 3.).Chapter 14: Dresden. You may want to spend a few minutes here. Bus: Founded in 1837. % 0341/21-69-90.).de. (Wed noon to 8 p. 6. See map p.m.25) adults.50€ ($4. a group of 10. 17. but be aware that none of the exhibits are translated into English. Dittrichring 24. 225. 4. See map p.grassimuseum.

Tram: 2. 6. or 20. or 13. See map p. 225.” the exhibit may help you better understand contemporary German history. sophisticated. Thomas Church) Leipzig’s most famous resident.. or 8. Thomaskirchhof 18 (just off Marktplatz). and Richard Wagner was christened here in 1813. When it isn’t touring. what life was like in Communist East Germany. 225. Give yourself at least an hour.m. 4. Open: Tues–Fri 9 a. and memorabilia to guide you through the tumultuous last half-century in eastern Germany. audio.m. 10.232 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany GDR. The movement started as a prayer group in the Nikolaikirche in 1982.–6 p. and the events that triggered the fall of the GDR. Open daily in December in front of the Altes Rathaus. Admission: Free. Admission: Free. Admission: Free. The Naschmarkt. lined with chic. His body was moved here in 1950 on the 200th anniversary of his death and reburied in front of the altar. Grimmaische Strasse 6. the church’s famous boys’ choir. Open: Daily 8 a. Tram: 4. 11.–6 p. Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig (Contemporary History Forum) I recommend that anyone traveling to Leipzig visit this free multimedia exhibition. Bach wrote his great cantatas for the Thomanerchor. cheeses. 8. % 0341/960-5270. Tram: 4. 225. 15. See map p. Nikolaikirchhof.m. Its high-pitched roof dates from 1496. on Saturday. Mädlerpassage is Leipzig’s finest arcade. Set up chronologically. centrally located outdoor market that sells vegetables.m. Thomaskirche (St. documents.m. Open: Daily 9 a. the exhibit uses photos. expensive boutiques. and close at 10 p.m. Leipzig’s Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) recently was transformed into a giant shopping mall. Leipzig’s Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a tradition dating back to . meats. first organized in the 13th century. is a lively. Shopping in Leipzig Exploring the handsomely restored Art Nouveau Arkaden (arcades) that thread through the historic core of Leipzig is fun. % 0341/960-2855. East Germany’s Communist government.m.m. on weekdays and 4 p. plants.m. open Monday through Saturday. Described as a place of “living remembrance. 6. newsreels.–5 p. % 0341/22200. and a bit of everything.–6 p. Sat–Sun 10 a.m. the choir presents concerts every Sunday morning and Friday evening. was choirmaster in this church from 1723 until his death 27 years later. Both Mozart and Mendelssohn also performed in the Thomaskirche. 6. See map p.m. with about 140 shops and cafes that open between 6:30 and 9 a. The church was built on the site of a 13thcentury monastery and was heavily restored after WWII and again after reunification. Johann Sebastian Bach.

lived and worked in Weimar for 50 years. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 45€ ($13–$56).de. the Schauspielhaus. from opera and classical concerts to late-night bars and discos. considered Germany’s greatest literary genius. 13. 17. 2. For a sampling of lively cafes. gewandhaus. Bosestrasse 1 (% 0341/ 12680. http://oper-leipzig. is the hippest bar and cafe in Leipzig. Special organ concerts and performances of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and Handel’s Messiah also take place. 12. is home to several arts companies that stage a mix of theatrical and musical productions in German. Its home is the Opernhaus. Founded in 1781. 6. or spent portions of their creative lives here. which honors Goethe and the Faust legend. and Weimar 233 Mendelssohn. 4. Augustusplatz 8 (% 0341/ 126-1261. and Brahms. because the German national assembly met here in 1919 to draw up the constitution for the ill-fated Weimar Republic. walk down Barfüssergässchen. Leipzig. or 24). Discovering nightlife in Leipzig Leipzig’s active nightlife offers something for everyone. 13. Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment Beautiful Weimar (vie-mar). Leipzig’s main theater. Live music is performed Thursday through Saturday. Tram: 1. just south of the Altes Rathaus. and composers made their homes in this small Thuringian town on the River Ilm. Tram: 4. 5. The town is well known to architecture buffs.000-year-old town that once was a center of the German Enlightenment. the orchestra premiered works by Beethoven. Ticket prices for opera and ballet range from 9€ to 60€ ($11–$75). writers. because the first Bauhaus School of Art and Design was founded . Germany’s first democratic government after World War I (WWI).) sell a variety of craft items and Christmas food and drink. Tram: 4. Stalls (open daily 10 a. a concert hall built in 1981.m. Weimar also is famous in the history of Germany.m.–8 p. is the home of the world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra. 15. Mädlerpassage (% 0341/216-100. www. 12. beginning around 8 p. opposite the Neues Gewandhaus. Mephisto Bar. The Neues Gewandhaus. Attending a concert by this great orchestra is a special treat. The Leipzieger Oper (Leipzig Opera) is one of Germany’s most acclaimed opera companies. Augustusplatz (% 0341/127-0280. Tram: 4 or 6). 21. Ticket prices range from 10€ to 30€ ($12–$37). cafes. 5. a 1. great for people-watching.m. Some of the country’s most revered painters. and other entertainment options. is one of Germany’s greatest cultural shrines. Schubert.Chapter 14: Dresden. or 15). Goethe. The area around the Markt is full of bars. or 15).

call % 11861 or visit the Deutsche Bahn Web site (www. Getting there Weimar lies 262km (162 miles) southwest of Berlin. The elegant late-17th-century facade. Tolstoy. in part because its old winding streets are sprinkled with the homes (now museums) of famous figures.weimar. hides a stylishly . The tourist offices listed earlier under “Finding information and taking a tour” also can help you find a hotel room or pension. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$$ –$$$$ City Center The Hotel Elephant is Weimar’s most famous hotel. Leipzig. but because Weimar offers plenty to see. in the town’s central marketplace.m. and 2 p. is available free. to 3 p. Finding information and taking a tour Tourist-Information am Markt. During WWII. de). Good train connections to Weimar’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) are available from anywhere in Germany. The meeting point is the tourist information office. By car.m. fronting Weimar’s picturesque marketplace. Buy tickets at the tourist office. Fast InterCity Express (ICE) trains run from Frankfurt. Weimar was not completely destroyed by bombs in WWII. Enough of old Weimar remains to give you a good sense of what the town was like when Goethe lived there. 118km (74 miles) southwest of Leipzig.m. and Dresden. often in historic buildings. and 215km (134 miles) southwest of Dresden. or the A9 Autobahn between Berlin and Munich.m.bahn. Weimar is an easy daytrip from Leipzig or Dresden. The tourist office offers a two-hour walking tour (in German) of Weimar daily at 10 a. Weimar is a joy to explore. Markt 10 (% 03643/7450. with a past guest roster that includes Bach. children younger than 14 free.m. even Hitler. and Weimar is a stop on the InterRegio express train between Frankfurt and Berlin. 4€ ($5) for students. the Nazis established the concentration camp Buchenwald on the outskirts of this city. Staying in Weimar Since reunification. Takt. new hotels have opened throughout Weimar. For rail information and schedules. the price is 6€ ($ you may want to spend the night. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. to 6 p. the local entertainment listings magazine. Unlike Dresden and Leipzig. turning off at Hermsdorfer Kreuz for Weimar. you can reach Weimar via the A4 Autobahn linking Frankfurt and Dresden..50) for adults.234 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany here in 1919. is open Monday to Friday from 9:30 a.m. www.

tst old Ama nech t ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Hotel Kaiserin Augusta 1 DINING Hotel Elephant Weimar 8 Zum Schwarzen Bären 7 Haus k rastr Coud Fr.- Goetheplatz Graben Karlstra Stadtkirche St. Be lv e R. Leipzig.Chapter 14: Dresden.4 Deutsches platz 5 M ar le rst 6 LucasRathaus i Markt CranachHaus 7 se k t stras Sc h Burgplatz Stern Brück e Ilm l os Sch ube rtstr asse Ilm Acker-w Ma rien trass e and Corona-Schroter Str. and Weimar 235 Weimar F. e 10 ng Bauhaus Universität Weimar 11 PARK K A R AN D E R ILM str. Peter und Paul HerderEisfeld sse lKege e c rü B k asse Eng els Ri Leibn izalle e Sch il r a s se Puschk Stub enst rass 9 Pl. 8 8 Demokratie or n Am H instr. rg as se Brüh l WEIMARHALLENPARK To Buchenwald Frieden str. To Train Station 1 0 0 1/10 mile 100 meters Jakobstraß e knech tstrass e N s aer Str a s Jen K. d. 2 Erf urt er Str ass Nationaltheater e 3 Theater.-F W rell ag igra ne th str. Information i ATTRACTIONS Bauhaus-Museum 3 Goethes Gartenhaus 10 Goethes Wohnhaus & Goethe Nationalmuseum 9 Liszt-Haus 11 Schillers Wohnhaus 6 Schloss Belvedere 12 Schlossmuseum 2 Weimar Haus– Das Geschichtserlebnis 4 Wittumspalais 5 de A rer e lle . Breitsc heidstr. 12 Berlin GERMANY Weimar liens CEMETERY Goethe-Schiller Mausoleum Str. Lieb Schwa nseestr Rollplatz asse Johannis kirche e e-stras se H -He i n platz s -g . mb Hu r.

Elephantenkeller Thurs–Tues noon to 3 a. or 71. and 6–11 p. See map and the buffet breakfast is good. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. In October. Main courses: Anna Amalia 16€–26($20–$32).hotel-kaiserin-augusta. and very well maintained. 99423 Weimar. 11. V. V. a garden terrace. Its Italian dishes. Rates include buffet breakfast. DC. try local specialties such as sweet-and-sour Thuringian pot roast with dumplings or Thuringian-style grilled bratwurst on sauerkraut with puréed peas. most have a tub/shower combination. Otherwise. Dining in Weimar As with Leipzig.m. Anna Amalia is modern and airy. a place for casual dining in a rustic atmosphere. convenient. Hotel Elephant Weimar $$ –$$$ GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Weimar’s oldest hotel has two restaurants. 235. The 99 rooms come in different sizes but are furnished basically the same. some new restaurants with savvier cooking and better ingredients have opened. Bus: 10. MC.m. however. Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany contemporary interior. % 03643/8020. comfortable. DC. See map p. Open: Anna Amalia daily 6:30–10:30 p. among the best in the region. Weimar is not a city renowned for its culinary past. AE. 99423 Weimar.. a dress-up sort of place with beautifully set tables. Breakfast costs an additional 18€ ($ 22). arabellasheraton. or 71. moderately priced hotel sits right across the street from the train station. Fax: 03643/234444. this restaurant serves specialty onion salads. % 03643/2340. 235. V. 11. and good service. Am Markt 19. Since reunification. The staff is friendly. Reservations recommended. with pearwood furniture and Art Deco styling. but they are fully equipped. % 03643/802-639. AE. . See map p. 235. make use of local produce and ingredients. www. Elephantenkeller 6€–16€ ($7–$20). Down one flight of steps is the historic Elephantenkeller (Elephant Cellar). www. Rates: 169€–235€ ($211–$293) double. Fax: 03643/802-610. Bathrooms are large. MC. The 134 rooms are not large or luxurious. Am Markt 19. Rates: 77€–139€ ($96–$174) double. Hotel Kaiserin Augusta $ –$$ City Center This good. when Weimar’s famous Zwiebelmarkt (onion market) is open (a tradition dating back to 1653). Bus: 10. Bathrooms are small and have showers only. Carl-August-Allee 17.

50€ ($5. hefty meal for a reasonable cost. Bus: 1. Nothing is fancy about it. wanted to surround himself with clever. 3. and toys collected by the school’s director. 6.m. % 03643/564-161. or 71. set the tone for the salons. classically inspired rationalism to German art and literature. treelined boulevards and many 19th-century buildings. The Altstadt (Old City). Goethe’s fame rested on the novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. Theaterplatz. Dishes include potato soup with sausage. % 03643/853-847. the town’s main square. Main courses: 7€–15€ ($9–$19).50) adults. MC. Open: Daily 11 a. Markt. 3. 11. Goethe’s patron. One room showcases the work of Henry van de Velde. with broad. with its large park. Bauhaus-Museum The focus of this museum is the Bauhaus movement. tea sets. suicidal artist. Exploring Weimar Weimar enjoys a scenic location on the Ilm River. The museum is fairly compact. Admission: 4. schnitzel with potatoes. particularly the playwright Friedrich Schiller.Chapter 14: Dresden. See map p. 5. entertaining people. so you can see everything in about half an hour. an important architect-designer of Art Nouveau.–6 p. remains the lively heart of the old city. 235. His mother. Zum Schwarzen Bären $ THURINGIAN Located next door to the Hotel Elephant. rumpsteak. furniture. Duchess Anna Amalia. The collection of Bauhaus memorabilia includes rugs. Goethe wrote the play Faust. or 7. but you can get a good.50) seniors and students. In Weimar. which was founded in Weimar in 1919 and sought to unify arts and crafts within the context of architecture. the architect Walter Gropius. and pork medallions with Gorgonzola sauce. has many historic sights. the work for which he is most famous. Open: Daily 10 a. all of which you can easily see on foot. which were referred to as the “Court of the Muses. Bus: 10. Surrounding the Altstadt is the newer Weimar. V. 2. to midnight. this restaurant is Weimar’s oldest. set against the backdrop of the Ettersberg and Vogtland hills. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832) was invited to the duchy of Weimar by the teenaged Duke Karl August. . which had become a sensation throughout Europe for its depiction of a suffering.m. Markt 20. Duke Karl. Leipzig.” Thanks to Goethe and his friends. See map p. and Weimar 237 Goethe and the court of Weimar In 1775. which brought a new. architectural drawings. 235.m. the little duchy of Weimar gained renown as a center of the German Enlightenment (Erklärung).50€ ($4.

Open: House and museum daily 9 a. some of them pretty much as Goethe and his wife.238 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Goethes Gartenhaus (Goethe’s Garden House) This simple stone cottage with a high-pitched roof.–6 p.50€ ($3) adults. % 03643/545-388.m. Admission: House and museum 6. handsomely furnished rooms. Friedrich von Schiller (1759–1805) is the greatest name in German literature. % 03643/545-320. Bus: 1.40) adults. you find more Goethe memorabilia. Marienstrasse 17. You can see the interior. Liszt-Haus Franz Liszt. 2. left them. See map p. 6. when he was 82 years old. overflowing with enthusiasm for all things Italian. See map p. 5€ ($6. an audio guide in English is available. Frauenplan 1.m. he replaced the baroque staircase with broad stairs in the style of the Italian Renaissance.m. % 03643/545-375. was Goethe’s first residence when he came to Weimar in 1775 as a guest of Duke Karl August. You need about half an hour to see everything. located just up the street from Goethe’s house. Admission: 3. his study a soothing green. Tours (in German): Tues and Fri at 1 p. in less than 15 minutes. See map p. from 1802 to 1805. Christiane. Goethe died in his sparsely furnished bedchamber on March 22.50) students and children younger than 12. Letters and other personal and musical mementos also are on view. Open: Daily 10 a. The house is . but the museum requires a separate admission. 2.50€ ($4. Displayed in the redcarpeted salon are one of Liszt’s pianos and the portable clavichord he used to exercise his fingers while he was traveling. When Goethe returned from Italy. He lived with his family in this house. 235. Throughout his life.50€ ($8) adults. longer if you’re a Goethe fan. the Hungarian composer and most famous pianist of the 19th century. 10. 2.m. or 12.50€ ($3). The house has 14 rooms.m. Liszt gathered young musicians around him in the high-ceilinged. In the museum. 10.–6 p. and his reception room a calming blue. Goethes Wohnhaus (Goethe House) and Goethe Nationalmuseum The large baroque house where Goethe lived from 1782 to 1832 is Weimar’s most popular attraction. Bus: 1. 235. which has a few pieces of period furniture. and designed special cabinets to display his Italian majolica plates.50€ ($3) students and children. 235. filled the house with casts of ancient busts and statues. Im Park an der Ilm.25) students and seniors. Open: Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. Goethe had his dining room painted a sunny yellow. 2€ ($2. Goethe used the house as a summer retreat. Believing that colors affect mood.–6 p.. and reconstructed in 1996 according to the plans of 1820. spent the last period of his life in this house located at the west entrance of Park an der Ilm. or 8. The house is part of the adjoined Goethe National Museum. The structure was built as a garden house in the 16th century. Bus: 1.m. or 12. Admission: 2. 1832. enlarged in the 17th century. 5. Schillers Wohnhaus (Schiller House) After his friend Goethe. located in the bucolic park on the Ilm River.m.

m. replaced the royal castle that burned down in 1774.–6 p.50€ ($8) adults. See map p.m. Luther.–4 p. Of more general interest are the painting galleries containing important works by Lucas Cranach the Elder (including a portrait of Martin Luther).50€ ($2) children. Wax figures created by artists who worked for London’s Madame Tussaud.. 5. The orangerie displays a collection of historical coaches. 1. Nov–Mar 9 a.m. you find a collection of decorative art from the rococo period.. Bus: 1. Admission: Palace 4€ ($5) adults. Bus: 1. . Open: Daily. Schillerstrasse 12. Schiller wrote his last works. See map p.m.m. Schloss Belvedere (Belvedere Palace) A pretty.. Schillerstrasse 16–18. 235. or 10. Burgplatz 4. and other famous names associated with Weimar. Nov–Mar 10 a. 7. Flemish and Italian paintings. begun in 1789 and completed in 1803.Chapter 14: Dresden. through the time of Goethe.50) adults.m. and videotaped projections help tell Weimar’s story from the earliest settlers in 3. Goethe. 6. baroque château located 3km (2 miles) south of Weimar. See map p. The museum has a series of galleries dedicated to Schiller. Inside the château. Give yourself about 45 minutes to wander through the galleries..m.25) adults. and children.25) students.m. % 03643/546-160. winter 10 a. Tours (in German): Mon 1 p. 4€ ($6) children. Admission: 3.m. % 03643/901-890. Schiller.–4 p. and Napoleon.m.m. 235. 6. Belvederer Allee.000 B. Admission: 6.m. audio guides in English are available. Admission: 5€ ($6.50€ ($7) seniors.50€ ($3. % 03643/545-350.m. including Wilhelm Tell (William Tell). 5. and Weimar 239 furnished as it would have been in Schiller’s day. You can wander through the entire house in about 15 minutes. See map p. Bus: 12. students.m. or 6.m..50€ ($4.50€ ($3). and expressionist paintings by Max Beckmann and Max Lieberman. 3€ ($3. Open: Wed–Mon Apr–Oct 9 a. Leipzig.–4 p.–7 p. Bus: 1. Open: Palace Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10 a. Orangerie 2€ ($2. summer 10 a.–6 p. 2. 3.m.–6 p.75) children. 5. 8. 3. In the attic rooms. % 03643/546-162. 235. You can visit both in about two hours. or 8.m. theater sets. Schlossmuseum (Castle Museum) This neoclassical structure.50) adults. 1€ ($1. The English-style park was laid out between 1814 and 1840. 5. 2. 235. 2. 2. 4. Orangerie Jan–Apr Wed–Sun 11 a. Weimar Haus–Das Geschichtserlebnis (Weimar House–The Weimar Story) This multimedia attraction provides a basic introduction to Weimar’s history. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a.–6 p.10) seniors. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. Belvedere Palace was a favorite retreat of Duchess Anna Amalia and her son’s “enlightened” Weimar court.C.

to 5 p.. and costumes. % 03643/4300). 235. Bus No. 3€ ($3. once the home of Johann Sebastian Bach. Army in 1945. The museum reflects both the Soviet and the Nazi past of the camp. and many thousands of others were sent from here to death camps in the east. Erfurt.m.m. poets. and art. 5. or 6. prisoners of war.000 people died at Buchenwald. silhouettes (all the rage back then). doctors. thought. is the starting point of a popular hiking trail known as Auf Goethes Spuren (In Goethe’s Footsteps).–4 p.m.– 6 p. old castles crown the tops of hills. the Nazis set up one of their nightmare concentration camps.m. You can visit Buchenwald May through September. 4.75) students and children. Ilmenau. and philosophers met to discuss issues of science. the Soviets sent thousands of prisoners here to die. Exploring the Thuringian Forest Weimar sits in the northeastern corner of the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest). Admission is free.25) adults. a 110km (68-mile) .. long extolled by nature lovers for its scenic beauty.m. Between 1945 and 1951. Tuesday to Sunday from 9:45 a. the “Widow’s Palace” was the residence of the widowed Dowager Duchess Anna Amalia. Bus: 1. in beech woods (Buchenwald) where Goethe and Schiller once walked. which leads to places associated with the great poet. devoted to mementos of the German Enlightenment. If you want to explore this picturesque area by car.225 ft. The house. % 03643/545-377. Open: Tues–Sun Apr–Oct 10 a. A memorial with a cluster of “larger than life” people. and dozens of picturesque medieval villages dot the narrow. Theaterplatz.m. Later. honors the people from 32 nations who lost their lives at Buchenwald. who presided over a “Court of the Muses.S. homosexuals.240 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Buchenwald: Remembering the past About 10km (6 miles) from Weimar. Just south of Erfurt is picturesque Arnstadt. 22km (14 miles) west of Weimar.” where artists.). Tuesday to Sunday from 8:45 a. and others in this work camp from 1937 until the camp’s liberation by the U. Soviet occupation forces also used the site as an internment camp. winding roads. one of the great cities of German art and culture. political prisoners.” Wittumspalais A short walk along Schillerstrasse from the Schiller House leads to the elegant Wittumspalais (vit-ooms-pa-lay). At least 56.m. has an extensive collection of paintings. 6 marked “Buchenwald. The Nazis confined about a quarter of a million Jews. Admission: 4€ ($5. See map p. the site of the camp. 6 from Weimar’s main train station makes the trip northwest of town to Gedenkstätte Buchenwald (Buchenwald Memorial. a lively university town south of Arnstadt. Nov–Mar 10 a. Within the forest. representing victims of fascism. is the oldest town in the region and the capital of Thuringia. 2. to 6 p. spruce-clad mountains rise to about 985m (3. 3. October through April. Slavs. Completed in 1767. take Bus No.m. Gypsies. To reach the memorial.

dance. Obereschlossgasse 2 (% 03643/512-993). . prices range from 8€ to 35€ ($10–$37). Weimar’s bars and outdoor cafes are good places to drink and talk into the night. selling books only. Schillerstrasse 22 (% 03643/59625). in 1919. You find a good selection to choose from along Schillerstrasse and around Theaterplatz. Goethe-Antiquariat.) You can buy tickets for opera. the National Congress passed the new democratic constitution that was the basis for the short-lived Weimar Republic. and furniture that survived the devastation of WWII. and its immediate neighbor. Also appealing are Antikitäten am Schloss. silver.Chapter 14: Dresden. Kaufenstrasse 7 (% 03643/402-567). The most interesting shops include Antikitäten am Palais. Shopping in Weimar A visit to Weimar’s antiques stores offers a chance to buy porcelain. where Franz Liszt and Richard Strauss once conducted. crystal. Leipzig. (This building is also where. Schillerstrasse 22 (same phone). Theaterplatz (% 03643/755-334). and Thiersch Antikitäten. and concerts at the tourist information centers or the theater box office. Kaiser Antikitäten. Discovering nightlife in Weimar Weimar’s main performance venue is the Deutsches Nationaltheater (German National Theater). Bräuhausgasse 15 (% 03643/402-540). and Weimar 241 scenic road called the Thuringer Hochstrasse (Thuringian High Road) runs from Eisenach to Ilmenau.

242 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany .

Part IV Southern and Western Germany .

an ideal driving tour loaded with unspoiled medieval towns. and the Schwarzwald. Easy day trips from Cologne include the wine-growing regions of the Mosel Valley and the Rheingau section of the Rhine Valley. I tell you about boat trips through the river’s most scenic stretches. one of the most scenically delightful areas in all of Deutschland. the sophisticated city with the huge international airport that is the German port of entry for many international visitors. and Neuschwanstein.outhern Germany is different from other regions in Germany. the romantic town on the Neckar River. famed for its woodcarvers. including the Romantic Road. and must-see attractions such as Rothenburg ob der Tauber. home to the cities of Freiburg and Baden-Baden. in Chapter 16. Chapter 19 is all about Cologne (Köln in German). Chapter 20 is all about Frankfurt. the cultural capital of southwest Germany. how to find a fine hotel or restaurant. the beautiful capital of Bavaria. S In this part . Chapter 18 covers three cities in western and central Germany: Heidelberg. Going beyond Munich. and Nuremberg (Nürnberg in German). I describe additional sightseeing possibilities in Bavaria. Western Germany includes the popular and populous Rhineland region and many famous cities that are easy to reach and fun to explore. In Chapter 17. I also tell you about visiting the alpine resort towns of GarmischPartenkirchen and Oberammergau. . the most dramatic of Ludwig II’s fairy-tale castles. . . Stuttgart. and what to see. or Black Forest. known as the Bodensee in Germany. a lively city on the Rhine famous for its spectacular Gothic cathedral. bucolic scenery. as you discover in this part. with its picturesque corners and Gothic churches. I devote Chapter 15 entirely to Munich. I highlight lovely Lake Constance. You find everything you need to know about Germany’s secret capital: how to get there and get around. Germany’s most famous walled medieval city. In case you’re eager to ride the Rhine.

Chapter 15 Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Munich ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Discovering the top attractions ᮣ Shopping for fashions.5 million people who live in Munich — think of the city as Germany’s secret capital. is a town that likes to celebrate. a whirl of colorful parades. one of those hard-to-translate words that means something like cozy and/or good-natured. If you believe the polls. Many Germans — especially the 1. concert halls. and enjoying life. in German). Think of Gemütlichkeit as a kind of cozy charm and you’ll get the picture. in every square. and more ᮣ Enjoying Munich’s nightlife M unich (München. the city goes into party mode again and celebrates Fasching (Carnival). palaces. Oktoberfest. Before Lent. Oom-pah-pah aside. the capital of Bavaria. starts in September and lasts for 16 days. sophisticated city. Munich also is a rich. and have a good time. World-class museums. elegant. and revelry. food. pronounced Mewn-shin. eating. drinking. listen to the oom-pah-pah bands. Walk through the Altstadt (Old Town) on a warm. masked balls. The city is all about prosperity and good-natured Gemütlichkeit. Munich offers so much to visitors that I recommend you give yourself at least three days here. . sunny day or a balmy night and you see people sitting outside. Munich is the Germans’ first choice as a desirable place to live. people gather in the giant beer halls and beer gardens to quaff liters of beer. which attracts some 7 million revelers. Throughout the year. with an unparalleled array of artistic and cultural treasures. and theaters are part and parcel of life in the Bavarian capital. from January through February.

bahn. Munich has no lack of transportation options. The city is easily accessible from anywhere within Germany or Europe. or “little monk. By plane Munich’s Franz Josef Strauss International Airport (% 089/9752-1313.25) for children. shopping.10€ ($1. 5€ ($6. www. Munich’s coat of arms has included a figure of the Münchner Kindl. on Bahnhofplatz near the city center. The S-8 S-Bahn (% 089/4142-4344) train connects the airport with the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in downtown Munich. By train You can easily reach Munich by train from any city in Germany or The Lufthansa Airport Bus (% 089/323-040) also runs between the airport and the main train station in Munich every 20 minutes from 5:10 a. The fare for the 40-minute trip is 8. the airport is among the most modern and efficient in the world. open daily from 7 a.40€ ($10) adults. is one of Europe’s largest train stations.m. 1.m.246 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The little monk of Munich In the ninth is located 29km (18 miles) northeast of the city center. restaurants.. % 11861 for train information and schedules [an English speaker will be available to help you]. and 10:42 a.m. a small village located near a Benedictine abbey on the river Isar called itself Mönch. Munich has an international airport. less frequently through the night. you can also call Deutsche Bahn (German Rail. so you can fly there directly from the United States. www. . and banking facilities. German for “monk.” Since that time. with a hotel.m. A taxi to the city center costs about 70€ ($87) and can take more than an hour if traffic is heavy.m.m. Munich’s Hauptbahnhof. Daily trains arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 33⁄4 hours) and Berlin (trip time: 7 hours).munich-airport..50) children. Trains leave from the S-Bahn platform beneath the airport every 20 minutes daily between 4:02 a. Like Frankfurt. Opened in 1992. to 8 p. to 7:50 p. Connected to the rail station are the city’s extensive S-Bahn rapid-transit system and the U-Bahn (subway) system. You find a train information office on the mezzanine level. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 10€ ($13) for adults.” Getting There As one of Germany’s major cities.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


By car
I do not recommend driving in Munich. Most of downtown is a pedestrian-only area — wonderful if you’re a walker, a nightmare if you’re a driver. Traffic jams are frequent, and parking spaces are elusive and costly. If you plan on making excursions into the countryside, renting a car in the city center instead of trekking out to the airport is more convenient. Car-rental companies with windows at the main train station include Avis (% 089/1260-000), Hertz (% 089/1295-001), and Sixt Autovermietung (% 089/550-2447).

Finding Information After You Arrive
Munich’s tourist office, Fremdenverkehrsamt München (% 089/23396500;, operates a tourist information center in the main train station (Bahnhofplatz 2, adjacent to the DER Reisebüro/ German Rail Travel Office). You can pick up a map of Munich, get information on cultural events, and book a hotel room. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. You find another branch of the tourist office in the city center at Marienplatz in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); hours are Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can make a hotel reservation online or at the main tourist office.

Orienting Yourself in Munich
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is an oval-shaped pedestrian-only district on the west bank of the Isar River. (See the “Munich Neighborhoods” map in this chapter.) Munich’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) lies just west of the Altstadt. Marienplatz, the Altstadt’s most important square, is where you find several important churches, the Residenz (former royal palace), the National Theater, and the Viktualienmarkt, a wonderfully lively outdoor market. Between Marienplatz and the National Theater is the Platzl quarter, famed for its nightlife, restaurants, and the landmark Hofbräuhaus, the most famous beer hall in the world. Odeonsplatz, to the north of Marienplatz, is Munich’s most beautiful square. Running west from Odeonsplatz is Briennerstrasse, a wide shopping avenue that leads to Königsplatz (King’s Square). Flanking this large square, in an area known as the Museum Quarter, are three neoclassical buildings constructed by Ludwig I and housing Munich’s antiquities: the Propyläen, the Glyptothek, and the Antikensammlungen. Another triad of world-famous art museums — the Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Masters Gallery), and the Pinakothek Moderne Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art) — also lie in the Museum Quarter, just northeast of Königsplatz.

248 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Munich Neighborhoods


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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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250 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Ludwigstrasse connects the Altstadt with Schwabing, a former artists’ quarter located north of the Altstadt and known for its cafes, restaurants, and nightlife. Olympiapark, site of the 1972 Olympics, is northwest of Schwabing. The sprawling park known as the Englischer Garten is located east of Schwabing. East of the Isar River lie Bogenhausen and Haidhausen, leafy neighborhoods just outside the city center where you find some hotels and restaurants. Theresienwiese, site of the annual Oktoberfest, and Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace), one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces, are both located west of the Altstadt.

Getting Around Munich
Munich is a large city, only slightly smaller than Berlin or Hamburg. The best way to explore is by walking and using the excellent publictransportation system. Subways (U-Bahn), trams (Strassenbahn), buses, and light-rail lines (S-Bahn) make getting anywhere in the city easy. In the Altstadt, you can walk to all the attractions — in fact, you have to, because the Altstadt is a car-free zone. For information, call the publictransportation authority, MVV, at % 089/4142-4344, or visit it on the Web at

Using public transportation
You’ll probably use the underground U-Bahn (subway) and the aboveground Strassenbahn (tram) systems most frequently. The same ticket entitles you to ride U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams, and buses. Purchase tickets from vending machines marked Fahrkarten in U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations; the machines display instructions in English. You also can buy tickets in the tram or from a bus driver. Tickets must then be validated in the machines found on platforms and in buses and trams; stick your ticket into the machine, which stamps it with the date and time. A validated ticket is valid for two hours. You can transfer as often as you like to any public transportation as long as you travel in the same direction. Munich has four concentric fare zones. Most, if not all, of your sightseeing will take place in Zone 1, which includes the city center. A single ticket (Einzelfahrkarte) in Zone 1 costs 2.20€ ($2.75). The München Welcome Card, available at either Fremdenverkehrsamt München tourist information center, lets you ride all public transportation and offers discounts of up to 50 percent off on major tourist attractions and city tours. A tageskarte (day ticket) good for a day of travel within the city limits costs 6.50€ ($8) for adults, 2.30€ ($3) for children 6 to 14. A 3-tageskarte (three-day ticket) costs 12€ ($15). A partner 3-tageskarte, a three-day ticket good for two people traveling together, costs 20€ ($25). You can buy these cards from the ticket vending machines or at station ticket windows.

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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit





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252 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Catching a cab
Taxis are cream-colored, plentiful, and expensive. You can get a taxi at one of the stands located all across the city, or you can hail a cab on the street if its rooftop light is illuminated. Taxi fares begin at 2.70€ ($3.50); each additional kilometer costs 1.25€ to 1.60€ ($1.60–$2), depending on the distance; there’s an additional 1€ ($1.25) to order a taxi by phone. Call Taxizentrale at % 089/21610 for a radio-dispatched taxi.

Staying in Style
Hotels in Munich are more expensive than elsewhere in Germany, and rooms are scarce (and prices much higher) during Oktoberfest and when trade fairs are in town. I strongly recommend that you book your Munich hotel room in advance. I’ve weighted my choices toward hotels in central Munich. The highest prices in this section are for rooms during Oktoberfest and trade fairs. The Fremdenverkehrsamt (tourist office) in the main train station (see the “Finding Information After You Arrive” section earlier in this chapter) can book a room for you and give you a map with instructions for reaching it. The service is free, but the office collects a 10 percent deposit of the total value of the room; the hotel then deducts this amount from your bill. For locations, see the “Central Munich Accommodations and Dining” map in this chapter.

The top hotels
Here you can find a variety of great hotels. See also the listing for the outstanding Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München ($$$$) in Chapter 22.

Advokat Hotel
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt
You don’t find frills or froufrou in this streamlined 50-room hotel in a 1930s apartment building. The Advokat is strictly minimalist in approach and has an understated elegance. The rooms are medium-sized, with clean, simple furnishings. Each room comes with a compact bathroom, most with tub and shower. See map p. 254. Baaderstrasse 1, 80469 München. % 089/21-63-10. Fax: 089/216-3190. S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk south on Zweibrücken Strasse and west on Baaderstrasse). Rates: 155€–275€ ($194–$344) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit An der Oper
$$$ –$$$$ Altstadt


This five-story hotel, dating from 1969, is wonderfully situated for sightseeing and shopping in the Altstadt. The décor is basic modern without being particularly distinguished. The 68 rooms are on the small side but have double-glazed windows and a small sitting area. The bathrooms are small, too, and come with a shower. See map p. 254. Falkenturmstrasse 11 (just off Maximilianstrasse, near Marienplatz), 80331 München. % 089/290-0270. Fax: 089/2900-2729. www.hotelanderoper. com. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater stop (then a 5-minute walk south on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Falkenturmstrasse). Rates: 150€–235€ ($187–$294) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V.

$$ –$$$$ Near Train Station
If you want a nice place right across the street from the train station, this is the best. From the outside, this large hotel looks a bit austere, but the interior has been redone with a pleasantly modern look. Most of the 211 rooms are fairly large, and all are decorated in a comfortable, unobtrusive style. Bathrooms are larger than average, with tub and shower. One child younger than age 6 is allowed to stay free in a parent’s room; for an additional child, an extra bed can be rented for 42€ ($52). See map p. 254. Arnulfstrasse 4, 80335 München. % 089/551-150. Fax: 089/5511-5555. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is opposite the north side of the train station). Rates: 139€–282€ ($174–$352) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.

Gästehaus Englischer Garten
$ –$$$ Schwabing
This 25-room guesthouse near the Englischer Garten is quiet, charming, and an excellent value. The rooms are small to medium in size and decorated with a homey mixture of antiques, old-fashioned beds, and Oriental rugs. The bathrooms are small, with showers only. You can save a few euros by renting one of the six rooms that share bathrooms. In an annex across the street are 15 small apartments, each with a bathroom and a kitchenette. Breakfast costs an extra 9€ ($11); on nice mornings, you can eat outside in the back garden. See map p. 254. Liebergesellstrasse 8, 80802 München-Schwabing. % 089/383-9410. Fax: 089/3839-4133. U-Bahn: Münchener Freiheit (then a 10-minute walk east on Haimhäuserstrasse to Erninger Platz and east on Liebergesellstrasse). Rates: 68€–120€ ($85–$150) double without bathroom; 114€–180€ ($142–$225) double with bathroom. AE, MC, V.

254 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany
Central Munich Accommodations and Dining
ACCOMMODATIONS Advokat Hotel 37 Am Markt 35 An der Oper 26 Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 13 Eden-Hotel-Wolff 3 Gästehaus Englischer Garten 16 Hotel Bristol München 8 Hotel Exquisit 7 Hotel Jedermann 4 Hotel Mark 10 Hotel Olympic 9 Hotel Opera 41 Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel 44 Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten München 40 Königshof 11 Königswache 1 Mandarin Oriental 30 München City Hilton 38 Platzl Hotel 33 Splendid-Dollman 43 DINING Alois Dallmayr 23 Augustiner Grossgaststätte 12 Austernkeller 39 Biergarten Chinesischer Turm 18 Boettner 24 Buon Gusto Talamonti 29 Donisl 21 La Galleria 32 Gandl 42 Gasthaus Glockenbach 6 Gaststätte zum Flaucher 36 Georgenhof 15 Hunsinger’s Pacific 14 Hofbräuhaus am Platzl 27 Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom 19 Pfistermühle 33 Prinz Myshkin 20 Ratskeller München 22 Rossi 28 Spatenhaus 25 Tantris 17 Times Square Online Bistro 5 Zum Alten Markt 34
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Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit


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hotel-exquisit. The small bathrooms contain tiled MC. family-friendly prices (including cribs and cots. 14 newly redecorated rooms have air-conditioning. The 56 rooms are fairly small. Hotel Jedermann $ –$$$ Near Train Station Jedermann means “everyman. .256 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hotel Bristol München $ –$$ Altstadt Built around 1960 and renovated in 2002. Bathrooms are compact and have showers. 254. Pettenkoferstrasse 2. This pleasant. V. AE. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 3-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse). www. Bayerstrasse 95. The 50 rooms are large and comfortably furnished in an old-fashioned German style. and babysitting). U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 10-minute walk west on Bayerstrasse from south exit). convenient place to stay in central Munich. Pettenkoferstrasse 3. % 089/543-240.” and that translates here into affordable. www. this efficient. 254.bristol-munich. About half of them overlook a pretty garden. 254. AE. MC. Rates include buffet breakfast. See map p. family-run hotel offers a central location and 55 comfortable rooms. Rates include breakfast. The staff here is unusually pleasant and helpful. www. Fax: 089/ Hotel Exquisit $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. % 089/551-9900. Cheaper rooms with in-room showers but toilets down the hall also are available. 80336 München. DC. MC. Rates: 57€–86€ ($71–$107) double without bathroom. Rates: 170€–250€ ($212–$312) double. built in 1988 in the same vicinity as the Hotel Bristol München (see the preceding listing). Rates: 99€–150€ ($123–$187) double. Fax: 089/5432-4111. serene. most with roomy. For a quieter room. The hotel is attached to the famous Augustiner beer hall and restaurant (see the “Dining Out” section. shower-only bathrooms. and you can check your e-mail on the computer in the lobby. is located on a quiet residential street in the heart of Munich. See map p. Tram: 19 to Herman-Lingg-Strasse (the stop across from the hotel). appealing hotel. modern hotel is a congenial. Fax: 089/ 5519-9499. 80335 München. request one that faces the courtyard. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor (then a 5-minute walk west on Pettenkoferstrasse).de. later in this chapter). The hotel serves a generous breakfast buffet. 67€–149€ ($84–$186) double with bathroom. % 089/5999-3902. See map p. V. with simple. adjoining rooms. 80336 München. V. Rates include breakfast. comfortable furnishings.

modern look. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 5-minute walk north on St. AE. % 089/416-050. See map p. Mandarin Oriental $$$$ Altstadt The sophisticated. Rates include buffet breakfast. U-Bahn: Prinzregenten-Platz (then a 5-minute walk west on Prinz Regenten Strasse and south on Ismaninger Strasse). The 38 rooms. U-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor. AE. then Tram 18 or 20 east to Hans Sachs Strasse.hotel-opera. www. V. occupies an ornate 19th-century building that was turned . % 089/ 10. The hotel is a ten-minute walk from Maximilianstrasse and the center of the city. 81675 Munich. 80538 München. Hotel Prinzregent am Friedensengel $ –$$$$ Bogenhausen This quietly charming boutique hotel on the east bank of the Isar has a lobby. stylish hotel is popular with gay travelers. and modern. Hotel Opera $$$$ Altstadt An early-20th-century Italianate building with a courtyard and garden houses this small. The level of service is exceptional. Rates include breakfast. and 64 guest rooms nicely decorated in a Bavarianchalet style with big. The bathrooms have a tub and shower. minimalist. V. www. % 089/231-890.hotel-olympic. MC. V. Rates: 90€–400€ ($112–$500) double. www.-Anna-Strasse). Fax: 089/ 2318-9199. superclassy Mandarin Oriental.prinzregent. The small. Rooms in the rear on the third and fourth floors are quieter but also smaller than those facing the street. some face a garden. Fax: 089/21040977. 254. and several gay bars and cafes are located nearby. Fax: 089/ Rates include breakfast. The rooms are fairly large and have good bathrooms. located in the historic heart of Munich. Some of the rooms have small balconies. DC. Rates: 150€–200€ ($187–$250) double. The hotel is a short walk from chic Maximilianstrasse and several major attractions. Rates: 185€–265€ ($231–$331) double. elegant. Ismaninger Strasse 42–44. this hotel has a high-ceilinged lobby and a large wood-paneled breakfast room that retain much of their original late-19th-century detailing. breakfast room. AE. Most of the midsize bathrooms come with shower only. 80469 München. boutique hotel. 254. are white. The 25 distinctively decorated rooms have country antiques or a cool. however. St. MC. See map p. See map p. MC.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Hotel Olympic $$ Altstadt 257 Built as a private villa around 1900. Hans Sachs Strasse 4. 254. comfy beds and lots of wood.

beautifully done boutique hotel. DISC. 254. Rates: 375€–490€ ($469–$612) double. most with a tub-and-shower combination. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (then a 3-minute walk south on Neuturmstrasse). fine prints and engravings. 80331 München. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse).Thierschstrasse 49. Neuturmstrasse 1. MC. Each comes with a compact tiled bathroom. V. but the overall ambience is hard to beat. neat rooms. www. and some are on the small side. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE. Biedermeier-era (early-19th-century) furnishings. DC. but not quite as chichi. Rates: 161€–230€ ($201–$281) double. MC. . Runner-up hotels Am Markt $ Altstadt This popular budget hotel centrally located in the Altstadt has small. The rooftop terrace provides a view of Munich’s steeples and spires. outside on a patio. Most of the rooms have terraces with panoramic views of the city. See map p. The staff at this full-service hotel will arrange baby-sitting.platzl.splendid-dollmann. 254. See map p. 80331 München. If you’re looking for a gulp of old-fashioned Bavarian ambience. You can enjoy breakfast. No two rooms are the same. www. this reconstructed “medieval” hotel is located across from the Hofbräuhaus. Splendid-Dollmann $$ –$$$$ Altstadt A small. the Splendid-Dollman is in the same league as Hotel Opera down the street. % 089/225-014. DC. Sparkassenstrasse 10. Fax: 089/23808365. The 167 rooms tend to be small. V. MC. Platzl Hotel $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Owned by the Ayinger brewery. but they’re paneled in chestnut and alderwood and furnished with 19th-century reproduction antiques. www. See map p. The Splendid-Dollmann’s owners moved the hotel (formerly located about a block away) to this building in 2003 and completely redid the interior. Heiliggeistrasse 6. See map p. Fax: 089/ 2370-3800. % 089/23-80-80.hotel inmunich. % 089/237-030. 80331 Mü DC. Fax: 089/224-017. for an additional 11€ ($13). Rates: 150€–190€ ($167–$237) double. this is one of the best choices in Munich. many of which share bathrooms. 80538 München. V. The hotel has a heated rooftop swimming pool.258 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany into a hotel in 1990. Munich’s famous beer hall. and big marble-tiled bathrooms with tub-shower combinations outfit the 73 rooms and suites.-Anna-Platz to Thierschstrasse). Fax: 089/222-539. AE. No credit cards. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 3-minute walk east from St. % 089/290-980. 254. www. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz.

80333 München. Promenadeplatz 2–6. % 089/551-360. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. See map p. If you want a refreshing nonalcoholic drink. www. Königswache $ $ Near Altstadt This 1960s-era hotel features modern. plus a health club with pool and sauna. www. 254. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. ask for Apfelsaftschorle (ap-fell-saft-shor-luh). 80335 Munich. and Canada or 089/48-040. Fax: 089/4804-4804. 81667 München. München City Hilton $ $ $ Haidhausen An excellent choice for business travelers and families with Steinheilstrasse 7. U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus. Fax: 089/523-2114. and so are all kinds of sausages and Leberkäse.hilton.S. Schweinbraten. heh.or oven-roasted marinated beef). S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz. . 80333 Munich. Fax: 089/212-0906. See map p. % 089/559-820. a braised loin of pork served with potato dumplings and rich brown gravy. and beer halls that serve food. Königshof $ $ $ $ Altstadt This famous hotel boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant and has lushly decorated rooms with marble bathrooms. this 90-room hotel is convenient. the München City Hilton lies on the east bank of the river and features well-designed rooms with nice bathrooms. Hotel Mark $ –$$ Near the Train Station Although not U-Bahn: a large loaf of sausage eaten with freshly baked pretzels and mustard. Karlsplatz 25. Senefelderstrasse 12. www. Tram: 19. % 800-223-6800 in the U. and moderately priced. See map p. Fax: 089/5513-6113. 80336 München. % 800-455-8667 in the U.S. soups. 254.koenigswache. is Bavaria’s answer to the north’s sauerbraten (pot. 254. % 089/542-7570.bayerischerhof. well maintained.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas 259 $ $ $ $ Altstadt This full-service luxury hotel dates from 1841 and has individually decorated rooms with large bathrooms. Fax: 089/5598-2333. comfortable rooms with compact tiled bathrooms. See map p. 254. Homemade dumplings are a specialty. Rosenheimerstrasse 15. www. Dining Out Munich is a city that loves to eat — and eat big. and snacks also are sold from outdoor stalls all around the Viktualienmarkt. Inexpensive sausages. or 089/21200. apple juice mixed with sparkling water. Filling the city are all kinds of fine restaurants. small cafes and bistros. See map p. served everywhere.

to midnight. U-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 5-minute walk east on Neuhauser Strasse). in addition to timehonored favorites such as Lobster Thermidor and shrimp grilled in the shell. sausages. A crowd always fills the restaurant at lunchtime. V. this famous beer hall and restaurant has cavernous rooms and a genuinely gemütlich atmosphere. The shellfish platter with fresh oysters. The house beer. U-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk north on Herrnstrasse and northeast on Stollbergstrasse. Dienerstrasse 14–15. fixedprice menus 34€–48€ ($41–$58).–4 p. which owns the restaurant. 254.m. including herring. If service is not included. V. and one of the most elegant. Austernkeller $$$$ Altstadt SEAFOOD At this “oyster cellar. 254.m. Stollbergstrasse 11. MC. MC. Main courses: 20€–35€ ($25–$44). upstairs in the dining room you can order a tempting array of dishes. Main courses: 15€–38€ ($18–$46). Downstairs you can buy fine food products. V.–7 p. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). as is the fish soup. Open: Daily 9 a. round up the total to the nearest euro. Open: Mon–Wed 11:30 a. Open: Daily 5–11:30 p. Specialties include dumpling soup and roast duck with red cabbage. Augustiner Brau.” you find the largest selection of oysters in town. Neuhauser Strasse 27.m. round up the total to the nearest euro and add another euro. and sea snails is a delicious way to start your meal. Reservations required. comes from one of Munich’s oldest breweries. .m. smoked fish. 254. mussels. The top restaurants Alois Dallmayr $$ –$$$ Altstadt DELICATESSEN/CONTINENTAL In business for almost 300 years. Sat 9 a. The restaurant is a bit pretentious. Menu offerings include fresh fish (salmon in champagne sauce is worth trying).m. but the food is excellent. % 089/2318-3257.m.. Alois Dallmayr is the most famous delicatessen in Germany. % 089/298-787. See map p. See map p. DC. clams. DC. and soups.–8 p. The server takes the tip when you pay the bill. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2-minute walk north on Dienerstrasse).m.. AE. MC. which means that a service charge already has been added.m. don’t leave the tip on the table. Augustiner Grossgaststätte $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/GERMAN Located on Munich’s main pedestrians-only shopping street. Thurs–Fri 11:30 a.260 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany If a restaurant bill says Bedienung. See map p. % 089/213-5100. scampi. AE. served raw or in dishes such as oysters Rockefeller.

Buon Gusto Talamonti $$ Altstadt TUSCAN/ITALIAN This highly regarded Italian restaurant has two dining areas — a simple bistro overlooking an open kitchen and a more formal dining room — with the same menu items and prices. fixed-price menus 25€–36€ ($31–$45).–1 a. In summer you can dine in the garden area out front. it brought its wood-paneled interior with it. lobster stew in a cream sauce.50€–28€ ($11–$39). AE. % 089/221-210. Reservations recommended. in a 16thcentury building in the heart of Munich. comfortable atmosphere. and 6 p.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Boettner $$$$ Altstadt INTERNATIONAL 261 When this century-old restaurant moved to its new location. ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and herbs. have long been a specialty. Reservations recommended. An accordion player provides music in the evening.m. The desserts are sumptuous. or the roasted lamb with potatoes. Weisswürste. Special offerings include herb-crusted lamb. but several traditional Bavarian dishes also are on the menu. Gandl $$ –$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN/FRENCH At this attractive and lively neighborhood bistro. DC. Donisl $ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL Munich’s oldest beer hall dates from 1715 and provides diners and drinkers with a relaxed. Reservations required.m. the little white sausages famous in Munich. 254. Hochbrückenstrasse 3. 254. Weinstrasse 1. AE. MC.–3 p. 254. fixed-price lunch 8. Open: Mon–Sat 11:30 a. The standard menu offers traditional Bavarian food and weekly specials. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). with a French influence.m. The beers come from Munich’s HackerPschorr Brewery. The cooking is light and refined. MC. See map p. V. fixed-price dinner 28€–38€ ($39–$47). U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5minute walk north on Sparkassen Strasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). pasta with truffles. and seasonal dishes with white truffles. Open: Daily 9 a. V. MC. the lunch menu leans toward Italian.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 1-minute walk north on Weinstrasse). The various risottos (rice dishes) are especially good. Try the tris di Pasta (three pastas with vegetables). Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). to midnight. Pfisterstrasse 9. beef filet.m. % 089/296-383. V. See map p. but at night the booking becomes more traditionally . See map p. The atmosphere is light-hearted and fun. % 089/29-62-64. DC. AE. Open: Mon–Sat 11 a. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Tal and northeast on Hochbrückenstrasse). spaghetti carbonara. to midnight.m. DC. Main courses: 17€–42€ ($21–$52).

The big gourmet salad with various meats and pâtés is delicious. Main courses: 23€–30€ ($29–$37). and 7–10 p. The vegetables come from local farms. try the simple but delicious Bavarian cream with strawberries. Fixed-price menu: 31€ ($39). Open: Tues–Sat noon to 2 p. Kapuzinerstrasse 29. The food is .m. but you’ll typically find fare such as entrecote with arugula salad. The menu offerings change with the seasons and typically include venison and pheasant in autumn and lamb and veal dishes in spring. % 089/2916-2525. quieter dining rooms. Closed 1 week at Christmas. U-Bahn: Lehel (the restaurant is less than a block from the St. Fredrichstrasse 1. % 089/534-043. to midnight. Reservations recommended. The Italian dishes include homemade pastas. Hofbräuhaus am Platzl $$ Altstadt GERMAN A boisterous atmosphere prevails in Munich’s huge and world-famous beer hall. France. a big courtyard is on this level.m.262 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany French. 254. Upstairs are a number of smaller.m. Grilled meats such as lamb and steak are popular. Gasthaus Glockenbach $$$$ South of Train Station MODERN EUROPEAN This elegant but unpretentious restaurant serves imaginative.–1 a. V. MC.m. Bavarian game dishes include Rehpfeffer (venison) with egg Spätzle (German pasta) or tagliatelle with venison ragout. The beer is Hofbrau. nouvelle French-German-Bavarian cuisine and has earned a Michelin star. MC. sit outside under the chestnut trees. gnocchi. Main courses: 8€–18€ ($10–$22). mostly organic. U-Bahn: Universität (then a 10minute walk west on Schelling Strasse and north on Turkenstrasse to the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Georgenstrasse). See map p. too. such as spaghetti carbonara. Open: Daily 11 a. Eat on the terrace if the weather’s nice. which is served by the mass equal to about a quart. and Austria. or lamb in red-wine sauce. U-Bahn: Goetheplatz (then a 10-minute walk south on Lindwurm and east on Kapuzinerstrasse to the corner of Maistrasse). 254. V. AE. % 089/39-31-01. grilled filet of salmon in saffron sauce. AE.-Anna Platz 1. The menu reflects seasonal specialty Spargel (asparagus) in May and June and regional favorites. but if the weather is nice. too. Dinner offerings change often. you sit on benches at bare wood tables as a brass band plays. 35€–70€ ($44–$87) dinner. V. Wines are mostly from Italy. and ravioli. For dessert. In the Schwemme (tap room) on the ground floor. See map p. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). 254.m. MC. Georgenhof $$ Schwabing GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This pleasant Schwabing eatery has a comfortably rustic interior with a wood-fired grill.-Anna Platz exit). Fixedprice menus: 20€–45€ ($25–$56) lunch. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. See map p. St.

Main courses: 110€–40€ ($25–$50). See map p.m. DC. and India (curry). % 089/5502-9741. this is the coziest and friendliest of Munich’s local restaurants. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. fried monkfish. Closed Aug 10–30.m. Maximiliansplatz 5. 254. Closed Aug. 254. Fixed-price dinner: 48€–54€ ($60–$67). but you may find main courses such as mushroom tartar. The tuna carpaccio with sliced plum. AE. veal with arugula. across from the cathedral (Dom). 254. Schweinbraten (roasted pork). and 5 p. See map p. AE.m. Frauenplatz 9. V. Thailand (lemon grass). Main courses include bouillabaisse with aioli (a fish soup with a spicy mayonnaise).m. % 089/297-995.m. homemade gnocchi with duck and figs. Nürnberger Schweinwurstl mit Kraut (pork sausages with cabbage. No credit cards. Reservations recommended. % 089/290-1360.–1 a. Hunsinger’s Pacific $$ –$$$ Altstadt CONTINENTAL/ASIAN This restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices. Open: Daily 10 a. Hot dogs will never taste the same again after your kid has tried one of these delectable little sausages.m.m. Spanferkel (roast suckling pig). You sit in carved wooden chairs at shared tables. and lime is a delicious starter. Japan (wasabi). Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom $ Altstadt BAVARIAN A short walk from Marienplatz. The menu emphasizes fresh fish prepared according to classic French cooking techniques but using spices from Malaysia (coconut milk). U-/S-Bahn: Karlsplatz/Stachus (then a 10-minute walk northeast on Oskar-von-Miller Strasse to the entrance on Max-Joseph-Strasse). to midnight. . roast duck with lentils. MC. or braised crab with polenta. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). No credit cards. to midnight. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19).–2:30 p. See map p.m. Sparkassenstrasse 11. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. % 089/295-264.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 263 heavy and hearty with a menu that includes Weisswürste and several other sausages. MC. and turbot in chili and ginger sauce. and stuffed cabbage rolls. cold melon soup. 254. See map p. Main courses: 21€–24€ ($26–$30). fresh ginger. Everything on the menu is translated into English. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 3-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse). Open: Daily 9 a. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to Frauenplatz beside the Frauenkirche). and 6–10:30 p. V. La Galleria $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt ITALIAN The roster of dishes at this appealing Italian restaurant changes seasonally. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Bräuhausstrasse). a specialty from Nuremberg) is the dish to try. Am Platzl 9.

AE. % 089/265-596. fresh trout accompanied by chive-flecked sour cream and a potato pancake. The daily special pasta may be something more exotic. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk north on Sparkassenstrasse and east on Pfisterstrasse). You can also get a good pizza. The menu showcases regional dishes but also includes some vegetarian choices. woody interior with carved wooden chairs and tables and painted ceilings. In the Platzl Hotel. MC. Come for roast meats served with fresh vegetables. 254. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight. Main courses: 9€–15€ ($11–$19). See map p. 254. inexpensive food and wine. Hackenstrasse 2.–1 a. or the fish platter served with ragout and noodles. Main courses: 16€–24€ ($20–$30). like fettucine with tartufo (truffles). soups. Open: Daily 11 a. Prinz Myshkin $ Altstadt VEGETARIAN If sausages and meat dishes are getting to you. and white walls with wood-paneled ceiling. macrobiotic dishes.m. vine-covered restaurant housed in a converted mill serves hearty portions of traditional Bavarian food in a series of charmingly decorated dining rooms or at outdoor tables. or grilled steak (Rindfilet). Try spaghetti alle pomodoro (with tomatoes) or penne ai formaggi (with cheese). Main courses: 8€–22€ ($10–$27). The simply prepared pastas (Teigwaren in German) are always good. The casseroles. Ratskeller München $ –$$ Altstadt BAVARIAN A Ratskeller is a cellar restaurant in a Rathaus (town hall). Marienplatz 8. where you find good. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (the Rathaus is on the square). red-tiled floor. The menu includes freshly made salads. this well-liked Italian restaurant across from the famous Hofbräuhaus is an inviting place to dine. Ratskeller München has a dark. See map p. you may want to try this popular vegetarian restaurant near Marienplatz. AE. in the Rathaus. Asian-inspired vegetarian entrees. veal piccata with lemon sauce. DC. Open: Daily 10 a. and vegetarian Involtini (stuffed rollups). V.m. V. % 089/219-9890.–11:30 p.m.264 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pfistermühle $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN This old-fashioned. Reservations recommended. % 089/2370-3800. and pizzas generally are excellent. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk southwest on Rindermarkt and Oberanger and north on Sack Strasse to Hackenstrasse). See map p. 254. AE. Toast the end of your Bavarian meal with a glass of wild-cherry schnapps. Pfistermühle 4.m. MC. V. . For dessert try vanilla custard with fresh berry sauce. Rossi $$ Altstadt ITALIAN With its columns. MC. Reservations recommended.

The bistro also has a section for noncomputerized dining. AE.–1 a. See map p.m. U-/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Fixedprice lunch: 62€–92€ ($77–$115). Open: Daily 7:30 a. Open: Daily 9:30 a. Fixed-price dinner: 120€–140€ ($150–$175). Main courses: 7€–14€ ($9–$17). % 089/361-9590. AE. The choice of dishes is limited and changes often. technobistro in the main train station. DC. Main courses: 7€–18€ ($9–$22).m. including pork and sausages.m. this sophisticated Michelin-starred restaurant has a modernist interior that reminds some of an airport lounge. baked Camembert. where you can order simple dishes such as pork cutlets. Spaten-Franziskaner-Bier. U-/S-Bahn: Isartor (then a 5-minute walk west on Tal and northeast on Hochbrücken to Bräuhausstrasse). and 6:30 p. Bayerstrasse 10 A. medallions of venison with mushrooms. V. Open: Mon–Fri 11:30 a. Tantris $$$$ Schwabing FRENCH/GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL A famed culinary mecca since 1972. V. Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. high-ceilinged. . 254. % 089/550-8800. Reservations recommended. MC.m. The Bayerische Teller (Bavarian plate) comes loaded with various meats. Breakfast: 4€–10€ ($5–$13).– 12:30 a. Spatenhaus $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This well-known beer restaurant with big windows overlooking the opera house serves hearty portions of typical Bavarian food at reasonable prices.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 265 See map p.m.m. sautéed foie gras with plums. With one of the fixed-price multi-course menus you may begin with a yellowfin tuna followed by monkfish with lobster raviolis. red cabbage and cheese Spätzle. and I’d recommend it more for a snack between e-mails than a real meal. and spinach strudel. Closed public holidays and annual holidays in Jan and May.m. and east on Johan-Fichte-Strasse). Sat 6 p. U-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 10-minute walk north on Diener Strasse and Residenzstrasse). V.–3 p. to midnight.m. Main courses: 14€–26€ ($17–$32). Residenzstrasse 12. MC.10) per quarter-hour. % 089/290-7060. Schwabing. 254. Open: Tues–Sat noon to 3 p.–1 a. Reservations required. AE. in the main train station. See map p. north on Leopold Strasse. Times Square Online Bistro $ Train Station CONTINENTAL/SNACKS A bank of online computers. to midnight.m. V. U-Bahn: Dietlindenstrasse (then a 10-minute walk west on Potsdamer Strasse. and finish with a hazelnut soufflé with marinated figs. 254. and 6 p. The quality varies here. Bräuhausstrasse 6. which you can rent for 2. Wash down your meal with the restaurant’s own beer.50€ ($ 3. takes up one side of this bright. MC. MC. DC.m. tagliatelle. AE.m. % 089/227-735.

. expect to pay 3€ to 6. depending on its size.266 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Brezeln und bier (pretzels and beer) In Munich. Englischer Garten 3 (% 089/3838720. Main courses: 12€–20€ ($15–$25). or accordionists sometimes add to the jovial atmosphere. has tables set in a tree-shaded garden overlooking the Isar River. near the zoo.25) for every Brezel you eat. The food. Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 3. tables are set up outside. it’s open Friday. pretzel) is the traditional accompaniment to ein Glas helles (ine glahss hel-les. You can also order classic dishes such as roast duck with applesauce or roast suckling pig. chewy. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 11 a. The best beer gardens Munich is famed for its beer gardens (Biergartens).m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south to Dreifaltifkeitsplatz on the east side of the Viktualienmarkt). quaff Munich’s famous brews. Bus: 52).m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. with a golden. a glass of light wheat beer).75–$8). Munich pretzels are delicious.m. Zum Alten Markt $$ Altstadt BAVARIAN/INTERNATIONAL This snug. but keep in mind that you’ll be charged up to 5€ ($6. Open: Mon–Sat noon to midnight (food served until 10 p. Munich’s big outdoor produce market. This beer garden is open daily from May to October from 10 a. where you can sit outdoors. U-Bahn: Giselastrasse). is located in the Englischer Garten at the foot of the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). drink. % 089/299-995. to 1 a. No credit cards. to 9 p. You may begin with homemade cream of carrot soup or black-truffle tortellini in cream sauce. In summer. Salty pretzels and large white radishes (Radl) are traditional accompaniments to the beer. Oom-pah-pah bands. Isarauen 8 (% 089/723-2677. an easy-to-find landmark.). zither players. friendly eatery is located on a tiny square just off the Viktualienmarkt.50€ ($3. For a glass or mug of beer. November to April. and atmosphere are much the same in the two places that I recommend. to midnight. A simple meal generally costs around 10€ ($13). In the beer halls. ߜ Biergarten Chinesischer Turm.m. ߜ Gaststätte zum Flaucher.m. you’ll usually find pretzels on the table. not-too-salty crust and a soft thick interior. and order hearty Bavarian food at reasonable prices. Saturday. a Brezel (bray-zuhl. The chef makes a great Tafelspitz (boiled beef). one of Munich’s largest and most popular beer gardens.

Enjoying Munich is easy. Admission: Tues–Sat 5. fascinating architecture. see the listings under “The top restaurants. and lovely parks and gardens.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 267 For two of the best beer halls in Munich. ceramics. The objects on view are among Bavaria’s greatest historic and artistic treasures. and textiles. and southern Italy. (Tues until 10 p. folk art. you’ll have to make some difficult decisions. Barer Strasse 27. but if your time is limited.m. see the “Central Munich Attractions” map in this chapter. . 268. Sightseeing in Munich Munich is one of the great sightseeing cities in Germany. Closed major holidays. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. in addition to clocks and scientific instruments.m. The museum also contains a famous collection of Christmas Nativity cribs from Bavaria. When you see a painting you want to know more about. See map p.” earlier in this chapter. painting. furniture. which contains works in wood by the great sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). offering several world-class museums. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum) East of Altstadt This museum contains three vast floors of sculpture. Tyrol. pick up a museum guide at the information desk.m.m. many fine churches and historic buildings.25). To make the most of your time here. A major highlight is the Riemenschneider Room.m. Give yourself at least an hour just to cover the highlights. 4€ ($5) students. The museum is so immense that you can easily spend several days exploring the two floors of exhibits. free for children 14 and younger Sun 1€ ($1.). and then spend at least two to three hours. A free audio tour in English is available in the lobby. For locations. and Friday at 3 p.” and the nearly 800 paintings on display in this enormous building represent the greatest European artists of the 14th through 18th centuries. for the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl and Augustiner Grossgastätte. punch the corresponding number into your audio guide to hear a full commentary.50€ ($7) adults. decide which paintings you particularly want to see.–5 p. Free tours highlighting various parts of the vast collection take place on Tuesday at 6:30 p. Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) Museum Quarter Pinakothek means “painting gallery. % 089/2380-5216. Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Munich is a city bursting with first-rate museums. and beautiful places to stroll.

Karlsplatz Adolf-Kolping-Str. Neuh -Wilhelm-Strasse zog Her auser 8 strass e Sonnenstr.2 km Blu Tha lkirc h Jah U ST. Sonnenstr.Nussbaum kirche platz e s as str urm w d Lin tras 0. ALTER BOTANISCHER e Sophienstr as s Bare Lenbachplatz U Maximiliansplatz Maxb S urgst rasse Senefelderstrasse Bayerstr.2 mi 0. Goethestrasse Schillerstrasse Landwehrstrasse Mathildenstra spitalstr . Ho t Joseph 9 Se li nd ng ers tr. 1 Zieb Sch Hes tras se Aug u i S U sten land str.268 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Central Munich Attractions Alte Pinakothek 5 Altes Rathaus 16 Antikensammlungen 7 Asamkirche 9 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum 20 Deutsches Museum 10 Englischer Garten 21 Frauenkirche 17 Glockenspiel 14 Glyptothek 6 Marienplatz 14 Michaelskirche 8 Münchner Stadtmuseum 12 Neue Pinakothek 3 Neues Rathaus 15 Olympiapark 1 Olympiaturm 1 Peterskirche 13 Pinakothek der Moderne 4 Residenz 19 Schloss Nymphenburg 2 Spielzeugmuseum 15 Theatinerkirche 18 Viktualienmarkt 11 NYMPHENBURG Amalienburg 26 Badenburg Pavilion 22 Magdalenenklause 25 Marstallmuseum 27 Pagodenburg 24 Porzellan-ManufakturNymphenburg 30 Porzellansammlung 28 Schloss 29 Schlosspark 23 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn U-Bahn eimers trasse s tr. STEFAN’S STEFAN CEMETERY ns tra Munich sse 0 ners se me nstrasse Mü llerstrasse Unte rer A U nger Sendlingertorplatz Bare rstra sse h-S tras se sse Luis 3 4 Dachauers trasse Ma x-Jo sep sse . asse ellin The resie gstr n- U s tra sse s-St rass e ens Gab e lsbe Schleis sh rass e rger stra Arc isst 2 5 asse Brie nne r Str 6 Königsplatz lstra uste Seid Aug Meis U erst rass e asse nstr sse Kar lstra sse se tras 7 Karolinenplatz sse Ma ens se rstra rsst ras Luis Ar nu lfstra sse S Hauptbahnhof U Elise GARTEN nstr asse Bahnhofplatz Prielm aye rstr asse i U Schütze nstr . ter str . Schwanthalerstrasse Herzog spitals tr. Pettenko fer- strasse Hamburg Berlin G E R MAN Y Frankfurt 0 strasse MatthäusBeethoven.

ide nm tr. e sse nh eim er . ibr Co rn ück eli str us as se en se as str . Frauenplatz Die ing erstr . rds Ste ins m Blu e tr. -W Marienplatz 14 Im T imm 16 Rum Is fo tr..Vete rinär Huberplatz str.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 269 Königinstr ass e stra ss e Blüte nstra sse Akad emies trasse Ada lber tstra sse NYMPHENBURG Schac strass ke 24 Kleiner See 25 30 gstr Tür Sch ken University Prof.-An na-Pfa rrstr. ner Kau str. St.HOFGARTEN platz Hofg U arten strass e se dst ras se e Oett Un söl rasse 20 er- Residenzstr. str inge nne rstra s sse Prinz rege nten st nstra Galeri estra Theatermuseum nf e che Ler ld s sse tra ar ss e Wagmüller str. rns Maxim ilians brück e stra sse r W Is en Wi er S tra sse sis Gärtnerplatz z Fra Klen un ho fe rst r tra es Mo ras M tr. ers üll tra Inn sse ere Baaderplatz Ludwigsbrücke Ke Ro se ller str Reichenbachstrasse Ze a r pp lin str a Lille nstr sse asse Hochs trasse sse ass sse . asse U Nymphenburger Kanal Schloss 29 28 26 27 ensch tr Hir rtens ga ellin 23 asse SCHLOSSPARK Am resie alie The nstr Grosser See stras nstr a sse se 22 Kaulbac hstrasse Zuccalistrasse Richildenstrasse Ludw ig t r a s se Kön igin s 21 tras se ens Schönfelds -vo n Türk le -Mil r. ns 11 ar do Frauenstrasse Ka e Zw nal t schs T h i er ass e rfs tra sse Viktualienmarkt Westenriederstrasse S er-R Jüdisches Museum München Maxim Knöbelstra sse ilians trasse Ste 17 Museum für Völkerkunde Thiersch Max Nationaltheater JosephPlatz Am Pfis Kosttorters Platz tras se Ma str. Ba ad a Erh ers Is rdt tra str ass e Deutsches Museum 10 S ar e Bürkleinstr. e rs U tr a ss e orstra Promenadeplatz Cuvilliés Theater stras hab Christophstr.Ring trasse Strasse ENGLISCHER GARTEN Von-de r-Tann Osk Brie ing K. fing i S U 13 12 al Isartorplatz 15 Th. aul tiner ras s 18 Residenz 19 Liebigst Thea Kar rsta Reitm ay rasse d-F llst Wein str. Scharnagl -R se Str ass Odeons.

and historical musical instruments work.–5 p. Admission: Tues–Sat 5€ ($6. and Bugatti vehicles. % 089/211-2401. streams. 3€ ($3.m.m. 268. hilltop temple called the Monopteros. Deutsches Museum (German Museum of Science and Technology) Museumsinsel Located on the Museumsinsel.m. and how steam engines. the first automobile (1886). (Thurs until 8 p. the first diesel engine (1897). Bounded on the south by Von-der-Tann Strasse and Prinzregentenstrasse. Tram: 18 to Deutsches Museum (the tram stops outside the museum). The banks of the Eisbach. You can wander for hours along the tree-shaded walks. and lake. Established in 1789. See map p. In the Aeronautics section. Spending half a day here is easy.). with a collection of luxury Daimler. Closed major holidays. papermaking. on the east by Lerchenfeldstrasse.75) students and children 6–16. 3€ ($3. Its huge collection of scientific and technological treasures includes the first electric locomotive (1879).m. This hands-on. Prinzregentenstrasse 3. 1866). the first electric generator (called a dynamo. Open: Daily 9 a. and the laboratory bench at which the atom first was split (1938). Opel.50€ ($11) adults.25) adults. the Englischer Garten also is the oldest public park in the world. on the west by Königinstrasse. pumps. (Wed until 8 p. Englischer Garten (English Garden) Northwest of Altstadt Munich’s famous city park is one of the largest (922 acres) and most beautiful city parks in Europe.m. You can pick up expensive picnic goodies at Alois Dallmayr (see “Dining Out. and admire the view of Munich’s Altstadt from the round. U-Bahn: Lehel (then a 10minute walk north on Wagmüllerstrasse and east on Prinzregentenstrasse).–5 p. or at Hertie. or less-expensive fare from the Viktualienmarkt (the produce market described later in this section).270 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. this is the largest science and technology museum in the world and one of the most popular attractions in Germany. See map p. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.). constructed in the 19th century. kid-friendly museum has interactive exhibits and an English-speaking staff to answer questions and demonstrate glass blowing. 268. % 089/21791. Sun 1€ ($1.25). the department store across from the Hauptbahnhof. Museumsinsel 1. Admission: 8. The park is a lovely place to have a picnic. are popular nude-sunbathing spots.75) students and seniors. the stream that runs through the park. free for children younger than 18. A giant beer garden occupies the plaza near the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). 268. an island in the Isar River.m. . The Automobile department in the basement is noteworthy. and an assortment of military aircraft.” earlier in this chapter). U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 10-minute walk northeast through the Hofgarten to the park). the first airliner (1919). you see a biplane flown by the Wright brothers in 1908.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 271 Deutsches Museum Ceramics Glass Technical Toys Paper Writing & Printing Second Floor Ground Floor Aeronautics Glassblowing Special Exhibition Textile PhotoTechnology graphy New Energy Techniques Fraunhofer Room Brander Room Hall of Fame History of Museum Industrial Chemistry Physics Optics First Floor AeroSailing Wherry nautics Atomic & Nuclear Physics Telecommunications Musical Instruments Chemistry Oil & Natural Surface Gas Mining Turbines Metallurgy Machine Tools Welding & Soldering Ground Floor Mineral Power Machinery Resources Entrance Hall Marine Navigation Electrical Power Hydraulic Engineering Rescue Cruiser Wind Mill Vehicle Engineering Courtyard Museum Shop Roads & Bridges Tunneling Tower Railways Model Mountain Railways Railways Oil & Gas Mining Ore Dressing Power Machinery Basement Modern Mining Motor Vehicles Marine Navigation Hydraulic Engineering Motor Vehicles .

m.m. Fri 7 a. The tower is open Monday to Friday from 9 a.m. during the holiday seasons) when the 43-bell Glockenspiel (carillon) on the 280foot central spire of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) goes through its paces. and 5€ ($ 6. Admission is 1. was a pile of smoldering rubble at the end of World War II (WWII). and 9 p. Chances are you’ll return here again and again.. Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady) Altstadt Munich’s largest church.–7 p.50€ ($ 3.m.m. Inside is the Spielzeugmuseum (% 089/294-001). 15th-century Gothic tower. to 7 p. built in 19thcentury Gothic style and famous for its Glockenspiel (see the sidebar “Watching the Glockenspiel” in this chapter). Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. a historical toy collection. with its plain. % 089/290-0820. Open: Church Sat–Thurs 7 a.75) adults. Frauenplatz 12.m. Admission is 2.m.272 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Watching the Glockenspiel The best show on Marienplatz takes place at 11 a.m. Marienplatz Altstadt This large pedestrian-only square in the heart of the Altstadt also is the old heart of Munich. tower 3€ ($3.m.10) for adults. See map p.25) for a family. 0.50 (65¢) for children..–6 p. To the right of the Neues Rathaus stands the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall).. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz. Only its landmark twin onion-domed towers from 1525 remained standing. 0. and the view from the tower is spectacular.75 (95¢) for children 6 to 18. first performed in 1683 to express gratitude for the end of the plague. completed in the late 15th century. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk west on Sporerstrasse to the church). tower Apr–Oct daily 10 a. . The rebuilt church is strikingly simple and dignified. the Schäfflertanz (Coopers’ Dance). open daily from 10 a.m.m.m. Brightly painted mechanical figures reenact two famous events from Munich’s history: the knights’ tournament during the 1586 wedding feast of Wilhelm V and Renate of Lorraine. daily (also at noon and 5 p.50€ ($2) students. 268. You can take an elevator to the top of the Rathaus’s tower for a good view of the city center. In the center of the Altstadt. to 7 p. 1. On the north side of Marienplatz is the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall).50€ ($ 1. to 5:30 p. See map p.90) for adults. 268.m. because many of the city’s attractions are clustered in the vicinity.m.–5 p. Admission: Church free.m. and. one level below.

–7 p.m. Peterskirche (St. which includes the oldest-known carousel horses.m.50) students and children 6–15. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 2minute walk south on Rindermarkt). starting right around 1800. 2€ ($2. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk south on Rindermarkt and Oberanger). William Turner. is known locally as Old Pete. Admission: Church free. who stares at you with two false eyes in her skull. Admission: Tues–Sat 5. . and a bizarre relic in the second chapel (on the left): the gem-studded skeleton of St. Barer Strasse 27 (across Theresienstrasse from the Alte Pinakothek). this museum is a showcase for 19th-century German and European art.m.m. and Paul Gauguin.50€ ($2) adults.m. 4€ ($5) students and seniors. % 089/2332-2370. Children love the third-floor collection of marionettes and hand puppets from around the world and the gallery of fairground art.–5 p.). Mundita. The second-floor photo museum traces the early history of the camera back to 1839.50€ ($7) adults. 0. See map p. among many others. (Nov–Mar until 7 p.–6 p.75 (95¢) students. Sun 10 a. A tour of the highlights takes a couple of hours. See map p. Artists whose works are on view include Thomas Gainsborough.m.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Münchner Stadtmuseum (Munich City Museum) Altstadt 273 This museum chronicles Munich’s history and the everyday lives of its residents.). St.-Jakobs-Platz 1. but you have to climb (and climb and climb) 306 steps to see it. Closed major holidays. (Nov–Mar until 6 p. Vincent van Gogh. The museum’s one must-see exhibit is the Moriskentanzer (Moorish dancers). Not quite as daunting as the nearby Alte Pinakothek.m. Neue Pinakothek Museum Quarter Housed in a postmodern building from 1981. frescoes. tower 1. The interior of the church contains baroque-era sculptures. (Wed until 10 p. 268.m.25). dating from 1820. an audio tour in English is free with your admission. Rindermarkt 1. You get a splendid view from the top. Francesco Goya. Joshua Reynolds. Peter’s Church) Altstadt The bell tower of this 13th-century Gothic church.m. featuring ten carved and brightly painted 15th-century wooden figures. this museum still contains plenty to see. % 089/260-4828. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.m. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museum entrance on Theresienstrasse is across the street). Open: Mon–Sat 9 a. You find a cafeteria in the museum’s main courtyard. % 089/2380-5195.). 268. Sun 1€ ($1. Caspar David Friedrich. Open: Wed–Mon 10 a.–6 p. 268.m. See map p. Admission: 4€ ($5) adults. free on Sun. remodeled during the baroque era.

75) adults. From central Munich. and the Altes Residenztheater. Design) Museum Quarter Munich’s newest museum. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.–4 p. (Thurs–Fri until 8 p.–5 p. Kandinsky. the Pinakothek der Moderne. Ernst. free admission on Sun. % 089/290-671.m. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (the palace is southeast across the square). 5€ ($6. Residenz (Royal Palace) Altstadt This magnificent building was the official residence of the Wittelsbach family. Elector Max Emanuel decided to enlarge the original Italianate villa by adding four large pavilions connected by arcaded passageways. the Schatzkammer (Treasury).– 6 p. Closed major holidays.274 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of Modern Art. The other collections include the Neue Sammlung (Craft and Design Collection). the Museum of Architecture. Tram: 27 to Pinakothek (the museums are across the street). and others. Architecture. free for children younger than 10.). displaying major 20th-century classics by internationally known artists including Matisse.m.m. the palace is a compendium of various architectural styles. See map p. is one of the most sophisticated and beautiful palaces in Europe. Barer Strasse 40. The must-sees are the Residenz Museum. the rulers of Bavaria. and the Graphische Sammlung (Graphics Collection). On the north side of the palace is the Italianate Hofgarten (Court Garden). Max-Joseph-Platz 3. with three centuries’ worth of accumulated treasures. Residenztheater 3€ ($3. which was almost totally destroyed in WWII. Giacometti. and 12:30 p. The palace was begun in 1664 and took more than 150 years to complete. opened in September 2002. See map p. The most important is the Staatsgalerie moderner Kunst (Gallery of Modern Art).m. Picasso. Artisans painstakingly restored the Residenz. you . You find four collections housed inside. Admission: 9€ ($11) adults. with arts and furnishings displayed in some 130 rooms.50) students and children. Kirchner.25) for students 10–18. a stunning rococo theater.m.m. and Palladian. Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) Nymphenburg Schloss Nymphenburg. 2€ ($2. from 1385 to 1918.m. laid out between 1613 and 1617. Tram: 19 to Nationaltheater (the palace is on the same square as the theater). Admission: Combined ticket for Residenz Museum and Schatzkammer 9€ ($11) adults. Added to and rebuilt through the centuries.m. the Wittelsbachs’ summer residence.m. Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. 268. In 1702.. 268. Gris. Guided tours (in German): Daily 10 a. including German and Florentine Renaissance. % 089/2380-5360. You enter both the Residenz Museum and the Schatzkammer from Max-Joseph-Platz on the south side of the palace. 8€ ($10) students and children. Open: Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a.

Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 275 The Residenz Hofgartenstrasse State Collection of Egyptian Art Fourshaft Room Court Garden Wing Stone Room Wing Trier Wing Festival Hall Building Entrance Hall Bavarian Academy of Science Battle Room Wing To w Chapel Courtyard er B ui ld in g Hercules Chest Ladies’ Floor Coin Collection Imperial Courtyard Apothecaries’ Courtyard Ground Floor Nibelungen Rooms 1 Theater Floor Imperial Hall or r Corrid Theatine Stone Room Trier Corridor Trier Room Papal Rooms Rooms Upper Floor 1 Entrance to Residenz Museum denz Old Resi ße Antler Corridor Grotto Courtyard Ancestoral Gallery Royal Building Courtyard Old Foyer Residenz Foyer Theater Fountain Courtyard Apothecaries’ Wing Wittelsbach Cabinet Garden Fountain Ruins of All Saints Courtyard Church Kitchen Courtyard m riu ua iq nt A Re si de nz Marstallplatz st ra t Vestmen Rooms Treasury Royal Building Max-Joseph-Platz New Residenz Theater New Hercules Room Charlotte Corridor tt lo ar Ch en t ak tr ’s st ür rf Ku g in sW om Ro Rich Ludwig I’s Rooms Porcelain Gallery Battle Rooms .

m. Dark wooden pews and a canopied pulpit provide the only color in the all-white interior. you find the Badenburg Pavilion. gilded coaches and sleighs. free for children younger than 7. Porzellan-Manufaktur-Nymphenburg. % 089/179-080. the interior salons are a riot of flamboyant colors.. the Pagodenburg. including those used by Ludwig II. In the south pavilion.m. The dome above the transept is decorated with an ornate gallery of large statues. To the south of the palace buildings.–4 p. Theatinerkirche (Church of the Theatines) Altstadt Named for the Theatines.m. 268. See map p. with an 18th-century swimming pool. Badenburg and Magdalenenklause closed Oct 16–Mar 30. The Porzellansammlung (Porcelain Collection. meant to be a retreat for prayer and solitude. A factory on the grounds of Schloss Nymphenburg still produces the famous Nymphenburg porcelain. Prettiest of all the buildings in the park is Amalienburg. including miniature porcelain copies of masterpieces in the Alte Pinakothek. Stieler (1827–1850). this church is Munich’s finest example of Italian baroque architecture. stretching all the way to the so-called grand cascade at the far end of the formal. decorated in the Chinese style that was all the rage in the 18th century.276 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany can easily reach the palace by tram in about 20 minutes. admission to all attractions 10€ ($13) adults. to 5 p. you find Ludwig I’s famous Gallery of Beauties with paintings by J. and the Magdalenenklause (Hermitage). a group of Roman Catholic clergy. is the Marstallmuseum. The church was begun by Italian architects in 1663 and was completed by German court architects about a century later. full of quiet meadows and forested paths. the raven-haired dancer whose affair with Ludwig caused a scandal. Admission: Palace grounds free. built in 1734 as a hunting lodge for Electress Amalia. entrance across from the Marstallmuseum) contains superb pieces of 18th-century porcelain. decorated in a vibrant splash of rococo colors and stuccowork.m. Every surface appears to be loaded with dollops of fanciful white stuccowork. 16. Open: Oct 16–Mar daily 10 a. A canal runs through 500-acre Schlosspark. swirling stuccowork. Fluted columns lining the center aisle support the arched ceiling of the nave. has a sales room and exhibition center open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a. Nördliches Schlossrondell 8 (% 089/179-1970). 8km (5 miles) northwest of the city center. in the rectangular block of low structures that once housed the court stables.–6 p. French-style gardens. Schloss Nymphenburg 1.m. you come first to the Great Hall. 8€ ($10) seniors. or 17 to Romanplatz (then a 10-minute walk west to the palace entrance). and wall paintings. You need at least half a day to explore the buildings and grounds. Apr–Oct 15 daily 9 a. where you find a dazzling collection of ornate. Inside. . Tram: 12. In the English-style park. The beauties include Schöne Münchnerin (Lovely Munich Girl) and a portrait of Lola Montez.m.

five cheese sellers.m. Most of the permanent stands open at 6 a. fish sellers.m.m. ߜ The Asamkirche. At the Viktualienmarkt.50€ ($4. close to Marienplatz. Frauen Strasse to the south. The Viktualienmarkt has a large beer garden. wine merchants. the Viktualienmarkt has been serving Munich residents for nearly 200 years and is a wonderful place to stroll and sniff and take in the scene. The museum’s five main-floor halls house more than 650 Greek vases.C.m. weekdays or until 1 p. and Tal on the north. it’s 1€ ($1. ߜ The Antikensammlungen (Museum of Antiquities). is an essential stop for anyone interested in ancient art. from a mussel shell to large Greek and Etruscan vases. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3. .50) for adults. (until 8 p. Königsplatz 1 (% 089/599-888-30. water. Bounded by Prälat-Zistl-Strasse on the west. you find two dozen butcher shops. and stay open until 6 p. or other beverage at the beer-garden drink stand. In an area the size of a city block. Saturdays. is a remarkable rococo church built by the Asam brothers between 1733 and 1746.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 277 See map p. 268. and 1:30–4:30 p.mwn. U-Bahn: Odeonsplatz (then a 2-minute walk south on Theatinerstrasse). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Sat 10 a.m. % 089/210-6960.m. Viktualienmarkt (Produce Market) Altstadt Located on the square of the same name. 2. Heiliggeiststrasse on the east. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz (then a 5-minute walk southeast through the square). a soda. U-/S-Bahn: Sendlinger Tor). Admission: Free.m.m.50).m. on Sunday.–3 p. Here are some additional places to visit as you explore the city.antike-am-koenigsplatz. U-Bahn: Königsplatz). and in other outdoor food markets throughout Theatinerstrasse 22. to 5 p. A joint ticket to the Museum of Antiquities and the neighboring Glyptothek (included later in this list) is 6€ ($7.m. Finding more cool things to see and do Munich has many important churches and museums in addition to those described in the preceding sections. and dozens of produce stalls.– 1 p. Multicolored marbles. a whole section of bakeries stocked with dozens of different kinds of Bavarian breads and rolls. 268. www. from a pre-Mycenaean version carved in 3000 B.50€ ($3) for students and seniors. See map p.m. Wed). on Sendlinger Strasse (% 089/260-9357. You can buy food at the market stalls and eat it in the beer garden if you buy a beer.25) for everyone.. Open: Mon–Fri 10 a. remember two points: Do not touch the merchandise (doing so is against German food laws) and don’t try to bargain for lower prices (prices are not negotiable).

Here you find sixth-century-B. to midnight. Admission Tuesday through Saturday is 3.autobusoberbayern. 19€ ($23) city tours that. in addition to the city orientation tour. Various events. Neuhauserstrasse 52 (% 089/231-7060. U-Bahn: Königsplatz).m. a colossal Sleeping Satyr from the Hellenistic period. another goes to the Olympic Area where you can climb its 960-foot Olympic Tower (daily at 2:30 p. One visits Schloss Nymphenburg (daily at 2:30 p. and a haunting collection of Roman portraits. to 7 p. Tours depart at 10 and 11 a. spend some time exploring a single site with a guide.m.. sits at the northwestern edge of Munich and is a small city unto itself. Thurs). Apr–Oct). the Glyptothek. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 8:30 a. 2. take place at the colossal 69. .m. U-Bahn: Olympiazentrum). Olympiaturm (% 089/3067-2750). Sunday from 6:45 is a straightforward affair — just hop on in front of the Hauptbahnhof and buy your 11€ ($13) ticket onboard. to 5 p.m.50€ ($4. Seeing Munich by Guided Tour You have two choices for orientation bus tours.).50€ ($3.m. on Sunday..m.m. ߜ Olympiapark (% 089/3067-2414. ߜ Located across from the Antikensammlungen (see the first entry in this list). site of the 1972 Olympic games. The extraordinary view reaches all the way to the Alps. including concerts. Panorama also offers 21⁄2-hour.m. 2. They also run guided tours to the castle of Neuschwanstein. 3. is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps.m. kouroi (statues of youths). and 1.m.m. and 4 p.10) for children younger than 16.m.. daily (Apr–Oct also at 11:30 a. Königsplatz 3 (% 089/286-100.). to 10 p.) television tower in the center of the park. (until 8 p.m.m. ߜ The Michaelskirche (St. www. The church is open daily from 8 a. the 293m-high (960-ft. 2:30. everyone gets in for 1€ ($1. A ticket for a ride to the top costs 4€ ($5) for adults and 2.25).m. noon. plus another at 10 a. Michael’s Church).m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). a third spends time in the Alte Pinakothek (Tues–Sun at 10 a.C. is open daily from 9 a. to 5:30 p. a single-nave church with a barrel-vaulted ceiling completed in 1597.). exhibits Germany’s largest collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture.278 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany gold leaf. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.50€ ($3) for students and seniors.50) for adults. and silver cover every square inch of this small rectangular church with rounded ends.m. and 5 p.000-seat stadium.m. The one-hour Stadtrundfahrt (city sightseeing tour) by Panorama Tours (% 089-54907560.

mikesbiketours.m.m.m.m. they were given a striped prison uniform. September to November 10 and March to April 15. tour.. Jehovah’s Witnesses.000 prisoners arrived (the exact number is unknown). 24€ ($29) spins around the sights of central Munich (including 45 minutes in a beer garden). followed soon after by “beggars. In June and July. Alte-Roemar-Strasse 75 (% 08131/1741). 19km (12 miles) northwest of Munich. Captions are in German and English.m. and 4 p. The 21⁄4-hour City Walk Tour starts daily at 10:45 a. Visitors now follow the route of the prisoners. All tours meet 15 minutes before setting The camp is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a. Prisoners died through work. April 16 through August. February through November. after disinfecting. growing numbers of Jews. Inscribed boards show the rooms’ original conditions and functions. and more than 32.m. Himmler ordered the first German concentration camp to be set up in Dachau. www.” “antisocial elements. www.munich walktours. disease. shortly after Hitler became German chancellor.” were redesigned to focus on the fate of the prisoners and to integrate the still-existing historic buildings into the reworked permanent exhibition.. and then transfer to bus 724 or 726 to the camp. Dachau did not have gas chambers. Munich Walk Tours (% 0171/274-0204. more than 206. to 5 p. In 2002. and where. Hitler’s Munich. after 1938. take S-Bahn train S2 from the Hauptbahnhof to Dachau (direction: Petershausen). and. No need to reserve. lasting about . but displays showing prisoners’ faces and videos of survivor interviews put a very human face on the horrific pain and suffering endured by these ordinary citizens.000 died. parts of the KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau (Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial). conducted in English. there’s also a 5:15 p. you can tour Munich by bicycle with the English-speaking ex-pats at Mike’s Bike Tours (% 089/2554-3988 or 0172/852-0660. The names of many of the dead are not known. hunger. Mike’s offers four-hour. Between 1933 and 1945. under the tower of the Altes Rathaus on Marienplatz. The company offers several options. you pay the guide (identifiable by a yellow sign). enter rooms in which citizens were stripped of all their belongings and rights. admission is free.m.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 279 Dachau: Germany’s first concentration camp In 1933. are a great way to find out about Munich’s history and architecture. the meeting point for all walks is the New Rathaus directly under the Glockenspiel on Marienplatz. The daily tours leave at 2:30 p. For a more active experience. To get to the camp. The first to arrive were political prisoners (Communists and Social Democrats). at 11:30 a. and mass executions by shooting.

a spiced red wine. Loden-Frey.” Ludwig Beck am Rathauseck. is the scene of a famous Christkindl Markt. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). Bahnhofplatz 7 (% 089/55120. across from the main train station. the main square of the inner city. and piping hot Glühwein. Shopping for Local Treasures Munich is the fashion capital of Germany. . Antiques devotees with deep pockets find what they want on Ottostrasse. Munich ranks right up there with Paris and London. smoked meats. Dirndls (traditional German dresses). folk art. Sometimes called “the Bloomingdale’s of Germany. Maffeistrasse 7–9 (% 089/210-390. General shopping is less pricey on and around Marienplatz and along the main pedestrian streets Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauser Strasse. and Theatinestrasse. jackets. including gingerbread. and Rudolph Moshammer. tree ornaments. Dirndl-Ecke. The cost for each tour is 10€ ($13 for adults). handicrafts. From late November through December. and a mouthwatering array of traditional snacks and sweets. however. is the place for all kinds of high-quality loden (a waterproof wool) wear. covers all the important facts and sites that played a role in Munich’s Nazi era. Marienplatz 11 (% 089/236-910. has a large selection of high-quality Bavarian costumes. The biggest concentration of shops selling secondhand goods is on Westenriederstrasse. Hertie’s. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Bogner. Maffeistrasse. allpurpose department store. fruitcakes. and hats. Joop. sugarcoated almonds. Am Platzl 1/Sparkassenstrasse 10 (% 089/220-163.280 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 21⁄2 hours. you find branches of all the top European couturiers and Germany’s and Munich’s own designers: Jil Sander. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). free for children younger than 14. This city is not one in which you’re likely to find many bargains. Max Dietl. such as coats. the plaza overflows with stalls selling toys. and when the topic is shopping. On these streets. The best streets for elegant boutiques and specialty shops are Briennerstrasse. founded in 1842. is a good. and handicrafts. Maximilianstrasse (which also has the leading art galleries). U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). is Munich’s best department store and a good place to shop for handmade crafts from all across Germany. or Christmas Market. Marienplatz at Christmas Marienplatz. 9€ ($11) for those younger than 26.

de) is one of the world’s great opera companies. Checking out bars and clubs Cafes are quiet in the afternoon but pick up noise and steam as the evening wears on. As southern Germany’s cultural capital.bayerische.Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit 281 Discovering Nightlife in Munich Something always is going on in Munich. S-Bahn: Rosenheimerplatz). The club hours are . to midnight. Performances of both opera and ballet take place in the National Theater. smoke-filled hangout for writers. artists. have a beer. called a Kasse. is a lively singles bar fueled by rum-based cocktails. tend to get going around 11 p. to 1 a. the jewel-box rococo theater in the Residenz (see “Discovering the top attractions from A to Z.m. % 089/2185-1920. Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Few cities in Europe can rival Munich for the sheer number of musical and theatrical events.m. and enjoy the local scene. The cafe is open Monday through Thursday from 8 a. The best way to purchase tickets is to go directly to the venue’s box office. Tram: 19). Nightclubs in Munich. as in the rest of the world. and the occasional celeb. The famous Münchner Philharmoniker (Munich Philharmonic Orchestra. Rosenheimerstrasse 5 (% 089/5481-8181. Leopoldstrasse 7 (% 089/333-333. is a sprawling. and Sunday from 9 a. Altes Residenztheater (Cuvilliés Theater. In a cafe.m. or performs from midSeptember to July in the Philharmonic Hall in the Gasteig Kulturzentrum (Cultural Center). Friday and Saturday from 9 a.) You also find plenty of bars and dance clubs for late-night partying. Munich is renowned for its opera and symphony concerts and theater.muenchnerphilharmoniker. Herrnstrasse 30 (% 089/291-884. Bayerischen Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera. which generally is open during the day and an hour before the performance. Havana Club.m. Max-Joseph-Platz 2 (Tram 19).staatsoper. Bars and cafes Café Extrablatt. Residenzstrasse 1 (% 089/ 2185-1940. To find out what’s playing. www. to midnight.50€/$2) from one of the tourist offices. you can sit with a coffee or a drink and order light meals or pastries. S-Bahn: Isartor).m. (See “The best beer gardens” earlier in this chapter.” earlier in this chapter) also is an important performance venue for plays and operas.. U-Bahn: Universität). But you can sit back in a leafy beer garden or in a beer hall. pick up a copy of Monatsprogramm (1. www.

No cover charge. (don’t show up before then). and is open daily from 7:30 a.m. mixed and/or invented by the owner.m. or for the police. Charles Schumann.m. Schumanns American Bar. If you get hungry there is a restaurant on the premises. . if you’re looking for a chic spot.m. is done up like an Edwardian-era London club and attracts an eclectic assortment of locals and tourists. Tram: 49). Fast Facts: Munich American Express American Express.m. call % 112. Tram: 19). For the fire department. and Saturday from 9:30 a. blues.times-square. The club is open nightly from 6 p.m. Nightclubs Set within an old factory. Promenadeplatz 6 (% 089/2280-1465. a bistro.m.). Business Hours See the appendix for details. to 11:30 p.m. is a complex of bars. is one of the most happening nightspots in Munich. Currency Exchange You can exchange money at the currency exchange in the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) daily from 6 a. Frauenstrasse 11 (% 089/229-909. offers expensive cocktails. is open for mail pickup and check cashing Monday through Friday from 9 a. and stage shows (which begin at 11 p. the music is jazz. Bayerstrasse side (% 089/ 5508-8000. and bar. to 6 p. writers.m.m. and Thursday through Saturday from 7 p. 36 Maximilianstrasse (% 089/229-060. to 1 a. to 2 a.m. and waves of “ordinary” patrons to its bar.m. Emergencies For emergency medical aid. All the bars open by 8 p. Grafingerstrasse 6 (% 089/ 4900-2730. to 3 a. movie stars. has computer workstations. to 3 a. to 6 a. Nachtcafé. See also “Telephone” in the appendix.m.m. to 1 a. The place is open daily from 9 p. use 089. If you’re calling within Munich. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof). Master’s Home. City Code The city telephone code for Munich is 089.m. restaurants. The décor is updated 1950s. If you’re within Germany but not in Munich. Internet Access Times Square Online Bistro in the Hauptbahnhof.282 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Monday through Wednesday from 6 p. You can move from venue to venue according to your interest.m. to 12:30 p. leave off the city code and dial only the regular phone number.m. Kunstpark Ost. www. Maximilianplatz 5 (% 089/595-900. attracting soccer stars.m. this is it. and soul.m.m.m. call % 110. The bar is open Sunday through Friday from 5 p. restaurant. and dance clubs. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz).net). Cover ranges from 4€ to 8€ ($5–$10). discos start around 10:30 p. Tram 19). Use 89 if you’re calling Munich from outside Germany.

is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. Saturday from 8 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Pharmacies International Ludwig’s Apotheke. You find more information on Munich and Bavaria at www. and Sunday from 9 to 4 p. to 8 p. Most robberies occur in the much-frequented tourist areas. Post Office The Postamt München (main post office) is across from the Hauptbahnhof.m.m. U-/S-Bahn: Marienplatz). a drugstore where English is spoken. MVV.m.. Restrooms You find restrooms in cafes. 283 Safety Munich.m. . call the public-transportation authority.m.mvv-muenchen. at % 089/4142-4344 or visit their Web site (www. has its share of crime. especially pickpocketing and purseand camera-snatching. Transit Assistance For information on the U-Bahn and trams. like all big cities. and beer halls throughout the Altstadt.m. muenchen. to 3 p. Web Sites The tourist office Web site (www. The office is open Monday through Friday from 7 a. to 8 p.m.. to 4 p. Neuhauserstrasse 11 (% 089/260-3021. such as Marienplatz and the Hauptbahnhof. and Saturday from 9 is the best site for general information. at Bahnhofplatz 1 (% 089/599-0870).bavaria.m. restaurants.m.

houses with fancifully painted facades. When they speak wistfully about “the king. the southernmost part of Germany. both easy daytrips from Munich. and groves of evergreens to the dramatic heights of the Alps that divide Germany and western Austria. A .Chapter 16 Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria In This Chapter ᮣ Exploring the medieval towns along the Romantic Road ᮣ Discovering Neuschwanstein. historic buildings. the region didn’t become a kingdom until 1806. by order of Napoleon. Visitors find a great deal to enjoy in this mountainous region in addition to Ludwig’s castles. rococo churches. the fairy-tale castle of Ludwig II ᮣ Visiting the alpine resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen ᮣ Day-tripping to Oberammergau and Schloss Linderhof lthough Bavaria’s recorded history dates back some 1. the legendary “dream king” (or “mad king. and nature on a grand scale. gently rises through foothills covered with verdant pastures. Brief as it was. when a German republic replaced the Bavarian monarchy.100 years. Bavaria remained a kingdom until 1918. Upper Bavaria (Oberbayern). lake-splashed countryside. many Bavarians still regard that royal era with nostalgia. Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. world-class ski and winter-sports resorts.” depending on your interpretation) whose castles at Linderhof and Neuschwanstein draw millions of visitors. or Romantic Road. Ludwig’s castles mark the end of the Romantische Strasse. one of Germany’s most beautiful scenic drives and one of the best ways to sample the delights of Bavaria. Bavaria abounds with romantic villages. will give you a taste of what Bavaria has to offer.” they mean only one: Ludwig II.

you can hit all the highlights. winding from the vineyard-clad hills surrounding Würzburg south to the green alpine pastures and craggy forested peaks around Neuschwanstein Castle. roughly. graceful river and wine town are most obvious in the Altstadt. or Romantic Road. Augsburg. The saying means. Rothenburg ob der Tauber. You also can visit these towns by train as daytrips from Munich or Frankfurt.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 285 Greetings from Bavaria In Bavaria. Though today it’s part of Bavaria. you can drive southeast 119km (74 miles) to Würzburg. were also princes of Franconia. fear dikh). visit the Romantic Road’s Web site (www. travelers enjoy an unfolding panorama of surprisingly beautiful rural landscapes interspersed with a host of small medieval cities. The bishops of Würzburg. “God greets you. which spread across southcentral Germany.” Goodbye is für Gott (for God. The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria If I had to recommend only one scenic drive in Germany.) If you’re arriving in Frankfurt. The major towns for overnight stays are Würzburg. renting a car at Frankfurt airport (Chapter 20) is easy. Würzburg was in ancient times an important town in the duchy of Franconia. all of which I describe later in this chapter.romantischestrasse. From there. it would be Bavaria’s Romantische In three or four days of very easy driving. the old city center with its leafy squares and historic buildings. and Füssen. people generally use the greeting grüss Gott (pronounced grease got) rather than guten Morgen (good morning) or guten Tag (good day). Driving these 290km (180 miles) of specially marked lanes and secondary roads. For more information. fear got) or für dich (for you. The charms of this old. many of them rebuilt after World War II (WWII). (See “The Romantic Road” map in this chapter. Würzburg: Franconian Fortress Würzburg on the River Main is a lovely. the official start of the Romantic Road. From Munich (Chapter 15) you can drive 119km (74 miles) southwest to Füssen and drive the route in reverse. and remained so until Napoleon ended the power of the church in 1802. The two sights of most . who took possession of the town in 1050. lively university town surrounded by miles of vineyards.

or anywhere else in Germany. with nice designer touches and a smallish bathroom.m. Try fresh fish in Riesling wine sauce. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. Dettelbachergasse 2. light.maritim.). roasted meats. in the Hotel Greifensteiner Hof (described in the preceding section). Pleichortorstrasse 5. fruity Franconian wines of the region go well with anything.m. MasterCard. and Sundays April through October from 10 a. the baroque palace of the princebishops. Diners Club. is a lovely place to sit outside on a warm evening and dine on Franconian specialties of the Würzburg area. is a pleasant.) Getting there If you come by car from Frankfurt. Diners Club. 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/ 35170. and Visa are accepted. their earlier fortress-castle high on a hill overlooking the and pickles in sour an onion tart). www. breakfast included. Staying in Würzburg Greifensteiner Hof. Marktplatz 9 (% 0931/37-23-98. with the big buffet breakfast an additional 15€ ($19).bahn. www. Main courses range from 8€ to 18€ ($10–$22). to 2 p. is open Monday through Friday from 10 a. Dettelbachergasse 2 (% 09861/87809). is a charming 40-room hotel right in the heart of the Altstadt behind the Marienkirche. American Dining in Würzburg The Fränkische Stuben. and Visa are accepted. and the Festung Marienburg.m. Maritim Hotel Würzburg. to 2 p. to midnight.greifensteiner-hof. Finding information The tourist information office.m. MasterCard. Munich (21⁄2 hours). or Zwiebelkuchen (zwee-bel-kook-en. onions. and Sunday 11 a. MasterCard. American Express. The medium-sized rooms are decorated in an unobtrusive contemporary style and have good-sized bathrooms with tub and shower. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday 11 a. Saturday from 10 a. wuerzburg. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information on the city. Rack rates for a double room run from 100€ to 210€ ($125–$262).m. Each room is different. . take the A3 southeast and follow the signs to Würzburg. herring filets with apples.m. modern hotel within easy walking distance of the Altstadt. You can easily reach Würzburg by train from Frankfurt (11⁄2 hours). 97070 Würzburg (% 0931/30530.). A standard double room goes for 60€ to 90€ ($75–$112) per night. The fresh.286 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany interest to tourists are the Residenz.m. to 3 p. Diners Club.m. (See the “Würzburg” map in this chapter. www. www. For train information. and Visa are accepted. American to 6 p. (Jan–Mar until 1 p. (Jan–Mar until 4 p.

d.T.D.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 287 The Romantic Road Schweinfurt Aschaffenburg E41 E45 0 20 mi Bamberg 0 Bamberg 20 km Wiesentheid 3 E43 8 E45 73 Würzburg rzburg Werthelm 47 RO A D RO M AN TI C Castle Church Forchheim Erlangen 27 Mittenberg Amorbach 27 Tauberbischofsheim Lauda-k nigshofen Lauda-königshofen Röttingham ttingham 290 Creglingen 25 Bad Mergentheim Weikersheim Weikersheim Fürth rth Nürnberg rnberg Herrgottskirche HO H OH HE ENLO N LOH H E R EB E BE ENE E50 O.T.Schongau oberdorf Wildsteig Bo Wangen im Allgäu Allg de ns ee Peiting Rottenbuch Murnau Steingaden Wieskirche Wies Oberammergau Wies Schwangau 17 Neuschwanstein Walchen Hohenschwangau Walchensee Penzberg Füssen ssen B11 SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA LEC ER EN AL L P HT A GarmischPartenkirchen Zugspitze . Schillingf rst Schillingfürst Ansbach Schwabach Roth 2 KIS 2 Heilbronn Murrhardt Backnang Winnenden 29 Crailsheim E43 25 Dinkelsb hl Dinkelsbühl Ellingen CH E45 Feuchtwangen Gunzenhousen Gunzenhausen 19 Wallerstein Aalen 29 Schwabisch Schwäbisch Gmünd Gm nd rdlingen Nördlingen 25 ALB Harburg 16 FR Ingolstadt Neuberg-ander-Donau Donauw rth Donauwörth AD RO AD RO AN CC M TITI RO AN M RO 16 16 Ellwangen (Jagst) UC H Heidenheim an der Brenz Goppingen Kirchheim unter Teck E52 E43 28 Nürtingen rtingen 28 Dillingen an der Donau AN Ä 300 Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Munich 2 Ulm Augsburg 17 E A LB To Munich E52 E50 Ehingen (Donau) 30 E43 312 Friedberg Area of detail Krumbach (Schwaben) Olching Fürstenfeldbruck rstenfeldbruck Landsberg E54 am Lech TIC ROAD ROMAN Biberach an der Riß Ri 312 E54 Mindelheim Herbertingen 32 30 Landsberg 17 Memmingen Kaufbeuren Leutkirch im Allgäu Allg Kempten Immenstadt im Allgäu Allg Lindau Sonthofen Diessen Ammersee Starnberg Herrsching Hohenfurch Hohen B2 Starnbergersee E533 Weingarten Ravensburg E43/54 Markt. Rothenburg o.

m. up to the Festung Marienburg.288 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankish foods with an occasional French twist are served at the atmospheric Ratskeller Würzburg.50). and Visa are accepted. Behind the palace. admission is 4. the Marktplatz (Market Square). is open daily from noon to midnight. Marienburg Fortress is a huge complex of buildings that includes within its walls the eighthcentury Marienkirche (St. perhaps. mozartfest-wuerzburg. which will take you right up to the gate. for local transportation information call % 0931/36-13-52 or visit www. one of the oldest churches . Mary’s Church). American Express. and the Weisser Saal (White Hall) and Gartensaal (Garden Room). Homemade sausage mixed with fried potatoes and eggs.50). The most important areas to visit are the vaulted Treppenhaus. to 6 Langgasse 1 (% 0931/13021).wvv. both slathered with a riot of fanciful stucco work. also is worth visiting. For more information on this popular event.m.). % 09317/20-59-40). Kilian. and 3 p. where main courses range from 6€ to 15€ ($7. the liveliest square in Würzburg. and.50€ ($5. Considered one of the most important palaces in Europe and a masterpiece of the baroque era. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many of the concerts by renowned musicians are performed in the beautiful baroque rooms of the Residenz. One of the annual highlights of Würzburg’s cultural year is the Mozart Festival. with tables on the square in good weather.m. The restaurant. Following Hofstrasse west from the Residenz. the 345-room Residenz. (Nov–Mar 10 a. 9 bus from the Residenz).de). the formal and elegant Hofgarten.m. just north of it. The Residenz is open daily from 9 a. begun in 1040 and rebuilt after extensive damage in WWII. Continuing west on Domstrasse from the cathedral. you come to the Rathaus. call % 0931/37-23-36 or visit the festival’s Web site (www. you come to the Romanesque Dom (Cathedral) St. or court garden. Residenzplatz 2 (% 0931/35-51-70). with a ceiling covered by a huge fresco with mythological allegories painted by Tiepolo. the Hofkirche. a court chapel with colored marble columns and two important altar paintings by Tiepolo. Domstrasse (% 0931/3211830). Crowning the high slope on the west side of the Main is the Festung Marienburg (Marienburg Fortress. reached by crossing the late-15th-century Alte Mainbrücke (Old Main Bridge) and following the marked footpath (you can also take the no.50–$19).–4 p. MasterCard. Guided tours in English are given daily at 11 a. accessible by a scenic footpath up or bus no. or stairway. which takes place during the first three weeks in June. or roast beef with fried onions and potatoes make for filling feasts. was completed in 1744 by architect Balthasar Neuman for Prince-Bishop Johann von Schönborn.m. Exploring Würzburg The town is compact enough so that you can walk everywhere — except.m. 9.

Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg From Würzburg.m. Sand l a ci nts 0 1/8 mile Ludwigsbrücke Am tenden Stu haus Fr ie tr. 6 brücke . admission is 3€ ($3. Marktplatz Ka p E ic h h n or . Juliusspital Schönbornstr. Alte Universität Bal HOFGARTEN Burkarder Tor Leistenstr. 1. H e i nes tr.m. - Re nn tr. nstr. Ot tr. Z e l l er S i Dom Altes 3 (St.50€ ($2) students.75) adults. str d Lu weger Ring kai nen Kra n Mai 1 Juliu s e enad prom tr.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 289 i Würzburg Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Information er im he ch hö its Ve . rst ine z u tr. Kais sden Frie rücke b ikerst 2 th. Kilian) Rathaus n ai Alte M 4 Domstr. Würzburg Munich Hauge rring . Pro Neum me nad anne Renn weg 7 MAINVIERTEL Saalgasse ALTSTADT Dom 5 er s chu lstr . Neubaustr. Neue Universität g rrin de San rich Fried tos E b ter g Rin Südbahnhof en s d tr. open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. tpo Lui lds tr. and the Mainfränkisches Museum. The one must-see attraction in this local history collection is the room devoted to the carved wooden sculptures of Tilman Riemenschneider. the great Gothic master woodcarver (see the nearby sidebar). str .Berliner Wörthstr. . r Augustinerst Büttnerstr. (until 4 p. in winter). San der str. wi gs r. to 5 p. str genrin Koell Hauptbahnhof (train station) Rönt g erst r. rone eik Dr Th r te ea Karmelitenstr Mai nkai . e ls m m e S Kr o a t e n g a sse Platz r. the Romantic Road leaves the River Main and follows Route 27 in a southwesterly direction to the town of Tauberbischofsheim Ka N erg sstr. 0 125 meters ACCOMMODATIONS and DINING Fränkische Stuben 2 Greifensteiner Hof 2 Maritim Hotel Würzburg 1 Ratskeller Würzburg 3 ATTRACTIONS Alte Mainbrücke 4 Dom 6 Festung Marienburg & Mainfrankisches Museum 5 Residenz 7 in Germany.m.

you buy your ticket at a machine outside the church. is open Tuesday through Sunday 10:30 a.m. admission is 1.90). It quickly became a place of pilgrimage. admission is 3.50) for children 6 to 12. Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories Rothenburg.m. is one of the major highlights along the Romantic Road. a completely intact walled medieval city located on a high promontory above the Tauber River. 1.50€ ($1.290 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Tilman Riemenschneider: Würzburg’s master woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). admission is 1.m. Across the road from the church is the small Fingerhutmuseum (Thimble Museum. attractive spa town is worth a stop to stroll along its pretty cobbled streets and to have a quick look at the Deutschordenschloss.90). lived and worked in Würzburg for 48 years. Sun 10:30 a.75) adults. serving as both a councilor and mayor. just 51km (32 miles) southeast of Würzburg. and 2 to 5 p. During the Peasants’ Revolt of 1525.m. worth a stop to see the famous carved wooden altar by Tilman Riemenschneider in the Herrgottskirche. Another 18km (11 miles) on B19 brings you to Creglingen.m. whose incredibly expressive wood sculptures are the highlight of the Mainfränkisches Museum.50€ ($1.). and from .20€ ($1. The town. described in the “Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg” section of this chapter. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. located on a signposted road about 2km (11⁄2 miles) south of Creglingen in Herrgottstal. has been a tourist destination for nearly a century.m.m.. if you’re into that sort of thing.–5 p. the master woodcarver from Würzburg. Riemenschneider was imprisoned and tortured. % 07933/370).80€ ($4.m. The church is open daily from 9:15 a. where you pick up B290 to Bad Mergentheim.. This small. Devoted to armor and weaponry.m. You can see more work by this great artist at the Herrgottskirche near Creglingen on the Romantic Road. As a result of his political views. He died shortly after being released from prison.. Riemenschneider. this master woodcarver sided with the rebels and incurred the implacable wrath of the prince-bishops. .m. the only museum in the world devoted to the history of thimbles. a palace used by royal princes and the medieval order of Teutonic Knights. and between 1505 and 1510. created an extraordinarily beautiful altar with figures representing the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin framed by scenes from her life. dating from 1389. It’s interesting . (Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 2–5 p. was built where a farmer plowing his fields claimed to have found a sacred host. 47km (29 miles) south of Würzburg. to 12:30 p. % 07931/52212). the Deutschordensmuseum (Teutonic Knights Museum. to 5 p. The church. . to 5:30 p. within the palace complex.

continue south from Creglingen on B290. Don’t let that deter you from visiting this remarkable reminder of Germany’s medieval past. or Stuttgart. Heidelberg.-Jakobskirche 3 e N a ug sse Ci Hamburg 12 ga eng W ty sse wa Berlin G E R MA NY am Main 11 Kirche Burg gas se Al a St dt t e gr a be MarktFranziskaner platz n 9 Rödergasse ll Frankfurt Cit y wall 13 T Heilig-GeistKirche 0 Spitalgasse Rothenburg ob der Tauber Munich ub Church Information 1/8 mile 125 meters i N ACCOMODATIONS Burghotel 4 Hotel Eisenhut 10 14 0 May through September you’ll likely encounter hordes of visitors.bahn. For train information. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. (See the “Rothenburg ob der Tauber” map in this chapter.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 291 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Ci 1 ty wall Bezold weg Kling enschutt Ro se e ngas Kling 3 5 Schrannenplatz Ju d e n gass e 2 G 4 e alg nga sse sen ga sse Klostergasse Herrn g asse 6 7 8 10 i DINING Burgerkeller 5 Gasthof Marktplatz 6 Ratsstube 8 ATTRACTIONS Castle Gardens 11 Klingenbastei 1 Marktplatz 9 Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum 12 Plönlein 13 Rathaus und er Ratstrinkstube 7 R iv r e Reichsstadtmuseum 2 a Spitalbastei 14 www. but you need to transfer at Würzburg or Ansbach and again at Steinach. You also can reach Rothenburg by train from Nuremberg. .

).–1 p. to 3 p. Saturday and Sunday from 10 a. (Nov–Apr Mon–Fri until 5 p. and 6 to 9 p. Klostergasse 1–3. Grüner Markt 10 (% 09861/6722. rothenburg. The restaurant is open daily except Wednesday from 11:30 Staying in Rothenburg See Chapter 22 for a description of Hotel Eisenhut ($$–$$$$).m..rothenburg. The office can help you find a hotel room and offers general information about the city.m.burghotel. (closed Jan–Mar). more like German comfort food. Herrngasse 24 (% 09861/2126).de). to 2 p. including breakfast. www.m. is a pleasant spot to dine on good. to 11 p. serves hearty. old-fashioned Swabian dishes.m.m. housed in a 16th-century cellar (with tables outside in nice weather). Diners Club.m. is open May through October Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. www. basic.gasthofmarktplatz. carless Marktplatz. to 6 p.292 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Finding information Tourist Information. is picturesque. No credit cards are accepted. Gasthof Marktplatz.m. The Gasthof also rents out simple.m. The Ratsstube.m. has a tavernlike interior and is a favorite of those who prefer hearty cooking (including sauerbraten and venison) without a lot of fuss and bother. from its half-timbered facade at the end of a cobblestone cul-de-sac to its€ ($9.m. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. Main courses range from 8€ to 14€ ($10–$17). Marktplatz (% 09861/40492. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). and on Sunday from noon to 6 p. prettily decorated rooms with views out across the Tauber Valley. . and Sat 10 a. MasterCard. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. Everything about the 15-room Burg Hotel. American Express. www.m. and the entire hotel is nonsmoking. local cooking and sample local wines.m. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday 11 a. MasterCard and Visa are accepted. and 6 to 9 p. 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber (% 09861/94890. It isn’t gourmet by any stretch. a pork schnitzel with cream sauce. Marktplatz 6 (% 09861/92411). some with a nice view of busy. in the town hall. inexpensive rooms (38€–48€/$47–$60. parking costs 7. Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Burgerkeller. Double rooms go for 90€ to 170€ ($112–$212). Standard dishes include Maultaschensuppe (stuffed pasta in broth) and Nuremberg sausages on sauerkraut.m.50–$13) for a main course. American-style breakfasts also are available. on the square to the right of the Rathaus. and Visa are accepted.m.m.50). Rothenburg’s premier hotel. and Jägerschnitzel. such as Käsespätzle (cheesecoated noodles) cooked with onions. to 2 p. Expect to pay 6€ to 10€ ($7. Boutique hotel standards prevail. breakfast included).

to 4 p. look for a Rothenburg specialty called Schneeballen (snowballs) — crisp. 9. November and January through February daily from 2 to 4 p. to 6 p. 2.50€ ($4. during the Thirty Years’ War. an old inn with three clocks on its gabled facade. The museum is open April through October daily from 9:30 a. and now serving as the tourist information office.m. a 31⁄2-liter (6-pint) tankard of wine. and 1–5 p. captured the Protestant city of Rothenburg and was given. South of the Rathaus. General Tilly. the other half sits on a high ridge above the Tauber River. commander of the armies of the Catholic League. This historical episode was performed as a festival play.m. a dunking basket.30€ ($3) for students.–12:30 p.m. and an iron maiden.25).m. shame masks. Former mayor Nusch accepted the challenge and succeeded.m.m. part 13th-century Gothic. part 16th-century Renaissance. is the Ratstrinkstube (Councilors’ Tavern). take a walk on a portion of the town ramparts from the massive 16thcentury Spitalbastei (a medieval tower-gate at the end of the Spitalgasse) to the Klingenbastei (another tower-gate). in 1881.m. From the top of its 50m (165-ft.) tower. At the center of Rothenburg is the bustling Marktplatz (Market Square) dominated by the Rathaus (% 09861/40492). Burggasse 3–5 (% 09861/ 5359). Windows on either side of the lowest clock open at 11 a.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 293 The Master Draught: How Mayor Nusch saved Rothenburg In 1631.. when hundreds of citizens dress up in period costumes and re-create the period of the Master Draught. The play forms the centerpiece of a weekend festival that takes place every September in Rothenburg. For an excellent visual introduction. .. Adjacent to the Rathaus. He said he would spare the town from destruction if one of the town burghers could down the huge tankard in one draught. Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber Medieval walls encircle almost half of Rothenburg. round pastries covered with powdered sugar. as victor. 2. to reveal the figures of General Tilly and Herr Nusch. noon. Here’s a rare chance to see chastity belts. and 1. admission 1€/$1. Admission is 3. and 10 p.50) adults.. a shame flute for bad musicians.m. As you’re walking.. Medieval crime and punishment are the fascinatingly gruesome subjects of the museum’s displays. You can buy them in bakeries all across town. Then just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere in one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. 3. called Die Meistertrunk (The Master Draught).m. you get a great view of the town (open Apr–Oct 9:30 a. December and March daily from 10 a. a 14th-century hospital with Rothenburg’s only 18th-century baroque facade houses the macabre Mittelalterliche Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime Museum).m. chief protagonists in the drinking bout that saved Rothenburg. thus saving Rothenburg and giving himself a three-day hangover.

to noon and 2 to 4 p. Also look for the photogenic corner known as the Plönlein.-Jakobskirche (Church of St. leafy Tauber Valley. pewter beer steins. to 4:45 p.50€ ($1. North and south of Rothenburg. you also pass neatly tended farms and fields. November and January through March daily 10 a.m. Grüner Markt (% 09861/7166).m. 1. and houses.m.. It displays medieval panel paintings. and kitchen. James). One particularly pretty spot with lovely views over the Tauber Valley is Castle Gardens. where two streets.m. to 5:15 p. and dolls.50) for students and seniors. The church is open daily April through October from 9 a. 2€ ($2. and objects of local interest.75) for adults. a Christmas-related emporium loaded with thousands upon thousands of Christmas ornaments. drinking vessels.m. Admission is 1.000. an upper and a lower. churches. it’s the largest town along the Romantic Road and serves as a . Shopping in Rothenburg Kunstwerke Friese. a collection of gold coins.m. (Riemenschneider’s work also is on view in Würzburg and in the Herrgottskirche. a masterpiece created by the Würzburg sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider. just the picturesque streets. on the way to Augsburg. Just northwest of the Jakobskirche is the Reichsstadtmuseum (City Museum). December daily 10 a.50 (65¢) children. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. November through March daily from 1 to 4 p. Klostergasse 15 (% 09861/700-620). Rothenburg has plenty of picturesque nooks and crannies to explore. No must-see sights are in either town.) The fine painted-glass windows in the church choir date from the late Gothic period. the drive parallels the lovely. a park on the site of the imperial castle. armaments. specializes in cuckoo clocks and carries Hummel figurines.90) for children 6 to 18. Every day is Christmas at Käthe Wohlfahrt’s Weinachtsdoft (Christmas Village). Open hours are April through October daily from 10 a. squares.m..294 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Gothic St. which is housed in a 700year-old Dominican nunnery with well-preserved cloisters. to 5 p. With a population of about 260.50€ ($2) adults. described earlier in this chapter. convent hall. Herrngasse 1 (% 09861/4090). Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg The charm of driving along the Romantic Road is enhanced by the bucolic landscapes seen between the villages. Two walled medieval towns worth a stop and stroll are Dinkelsbühl and Nördlingen. Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance Augsburg is a city of pleasant surprises. is worth visiting to see the Heiliges-Blut-Altar (Altar of the Holy Blood). Driving along B25. converge. 0. Klosterhof 5 (% 09861/93-9043). music boxes..m.m.

Am S all ch w am Main Frankfurt Kapuzine r g Augsburg Munich r. ass ilian erg Maxim int W llee er–A nau Ade benstr. Graben i N us e rstr. continue on B25 south from Rothenburg to Augsburg. The city was founded some 2. rad– ra Kon chiessg S sse kerga Bäc . Trains from Frankfurt (trip time about 3 hours) Le ch h 3 r. Brech Romantikhotel t Brechthaus 4 OblatterwallAugsburger Hof rstr turm Dom St. tenau Grot glerg. J ako ber uer ma Unt. Spen e Mauer b P Ra u h ec w o ff st r rdsberg Leonha 4 5 6 P il g e r h a usstr. G ra b en i ter n rabe . A stroll through Augsburg reveals an attractive urban landscape loaded with historic buildings. Rotes Tor 125 meters gateway to the Bavarian Alps. 7 8 Jakobertor tr. charming corners. em St. 0 0 Church Information 1/8 mile Stettenstr. Anna 9 a Un f.igst r . nto ue Fr a eg Ho he r W L au Mittl.000 years ago by the Roman emperor Augustus and reached its cultural zenith during the Renaissance.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 295 Augsburg uz re Au f m de Je su i K St 1 2 hl e ass ng te rg Hofgarten Lu dw Obstmarkt Stadt. erst Be e str. ethov enstr str . under the patronage of the enormously wealthy Fugger family. theater Karlstr. Ulrich und Kirchgasse St.) Getting there If you’re driving the Romantic Road. Ulrichs Weite G a s e platz s K itzenmarkt t Pro vinos Schwibbogen platz R boldstr. . ACCOMMODATIONS ATTRACTIONS Bert. r au lm allst e g Vo berw o Hamburg Jak Berlin Katharine ngasse 10 11 GERMANY Forster 12 H a l l s t r. Jakoberst r. Maria 3 e d e Rirestaurant) (hotel and 1 Fuggerei 8 Steigenberger Drei Fugger-Stadtpalais 11 FünfgratMohren 10 Mozarthaus 2 turm Perlachturm 5 ü DINING b s n Rathaus 6 Fuggerei Stube G 7ä a elsu Schaezlerpalais 12 c a r St. Afra Prinzstr.G Ob Fugg r. Armen h ausg. Rathausplatz An 9 nas i Fuggerei Kap p ene ck Jakoberwallturm Vogeltor Z e ug g er . and the lively ambience of a university town. (See the “Augsburg” map in this chapter.

though the rooms vary in size and level of finesse.m. Rack rates for a double room range from 145€ to 165€ ($181–$206).296 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Munich (trip time about 30 minutes) arrive frequently throughout the day. on Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard.augsburg. Rooms are nicely done with exposed beams in some and small but well-designed bathrooms with showers. www. American Express. MasterCard. Rathausplatz (% 0821/502-0724. augsburg-tourismus. 86152 Augsburg (% 0821/34-30-50. the rest of the year (7€/$8.75). The 102-room Steigenberger Drei Mohren. Auf dem Kreuz 2 (% 0821/34-30-50). where the rear dining room is paneled in pale linden wood and the menu contains lots of Bavarian and Swabian specialties. Doubles go for 97€ to 130€ ($121–$162) and include a good breakfast buffet. serves generous portions of Swabian food with a few “inter- . an unpretentious local www. Diners Club. Service is friendly and efficient. Expect to pay 12€ to 25€ ($15–$31) for main courses. For train information. 86150 Augsburg (% 0821/50360. All tours begin at the Rathaus. www. The hotel’s restaurant is one of the best in town. and can help you find a room. The best are large and comfortable. The office also offers a two-hour bus tour May through October Thursday through Sunday at 10 a.m.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m.). on Saturdays at 2 p. Dining in Augsburg For fine food and impeccable service in lovely surroundings. (Sun in summer 10 a. and Visa are accepted. Staying in Augsburg Romantikhotel Augsburger Hof. with marble-clad bathrooms with big bathtubs. American Express.m. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. (9€/$11). Auf dem Kreuz 2. dispenses general information. dine at the restaurant in the Romantikhotel Augsburger call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. is the town’s full-service luxuryoriented hotel.m.–1 p. Larger (and quieter) rooms face an inner courtyard. and Visa are accepted. to 6 p. from May through October. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information office.m. Maximilianstrasse to 1 p. Diners Club. The best way to appreciate Augsburg’s architectural and cultural heritage is by taking the walking tour (in German and English) offered by the tourist office daily at 2 p. distributes city maps. Fuggerei Stube. The hotel’s new (2006) Meder’s Bar and Grill serves smaller-portion German and international dishes throughout the day.bahn.m. MasterCard.steigenberger. Jakoberstrasse 26 (% 0821/30870). open Monday through Friday 9 a. is a 36-room boutiquestyle hotel located just minutes from central Rathausplatz and all Augsburg attractions.

m. and Cranach.m. which can be visited only as part of a Rathaus tour (daily May–Oct.m.. 10 a.50). on Jakobsplatz in the old residential quarter of town.m. The interior is famous for its sumptuous Goldener Saal (Golden Hall). and still in use today. to 6 p. demarcate the southern end of Maximilianstrasse. If you climb to the top of the soaring spire of the Perlachturm (Perlach Tower). on Annahof. . Afra. Sunday 11:30 a. you’ll find the Fuggerei. and 5:30 to 11 p.m. both considerably rebuilt after damage in WWII. and vegetarian offerings. Ulrich and St. and roast potatoes. A pair of churches. to 2 p.m.m. is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. designed by Elias Holl and completed in 1620. noted for its old masters painting collection with works by Dürer. a former Carmelite monastery church dating from 1321. stretches south from Rathausplatz. Look for potato cream soup with mushrooms. to 6 p. chicken breast with curry and rice.m.600th birthday in 1594. is one of the most significant secular buildings of the German Renaissance.. duck into the courtyard of Maximilianstrasse 36 to have a look at the Damenhof. West of Rathausplatz. American Express.m. As you stroll along Augsburg’s most elegant boulevard. Right next to the church. and Visa are accepted. is dominated by two imposing Renaissance-era buildings. The Augustus fountain in front of the Rathaus was dedicated on the occasion of the town’s 1. of what was once the Fugger-Stadtpalais (Fugger City Palace).m. on the Annahof. St. The Rathaus.50€ ($4. Martin Luther stayed in the adjoining monastery when he was called to Augsburg to recant his 95 Theses before a papal emissary. or Ladies’ Court.m. is open May through October from 10 a.m. MasterCard. admission is 3. In 1518. Exploring Augsburg Augsburg’s main square. capped by a distinctive dome called an “Augsburg onion” (you’ll see these onion domes on churches all across Augsburg and as you head south into Bavaria). pastries. 7€/$8. to 3 p. The tower. The first almshouses in the world. both dating from 1500. Main courses range from 9€ to 18€ ($11–$22). you find the city market with stalls selling flowers. East of Maximilianstrasse. the Fuggerei was built in 1523 by Jacob Fugger the Rich. A late-18th-century mansion. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.75). next to the Rathaus. onions. and 3 p. which contains paintings by Lucas Cranach and the chapel of the Fugger family. houses the Bavarian State Gallery. Rathausplatz. produce. stands St.m. and much more. Anna. Am Rathausplatz 2 (% 0821/324-9180). fixed-price menu 19€ ($24).Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 297 national” dishes. one of the most important building complexes in Augsburg. calves’ liver with apples. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a. ornamented by three large Renaissance-era fountains and lined with shops and fine patrician houses. The church. Maximilianstrasse. Holbein. to 6 p. you’ll be rewarded with a marvelous view of the old town center. the Schaezlerpalais. Maximilianstrasse 46 (% 0821/324-4125)..

a master mason reduced to penury.m. The Mozarthaus and the Brechthaus are open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. to 5 p.). are found in the south transept of Augsburg’s cathedral. statues.m. where Wolfgang’s father. Tiny but fascinating. who worked on the church with his brother from 1746 to 1754. backtrack to B17 and follow it south to Neuschwanstein. On this segment of the drive. Maria. was born. The Brechthaus. and a 14th-century bronze door. the cathedral features Gothic frescoes.–5 a. lets you glimpse the interior of one of the cottages as it looked in centuries past.. a fountain.). .m. and a park. lived in the Fuggerei almshouse at Mittlere Gasse 14. admission to each is 1. Some of the oldest stained-glass windows in Germany. Altered during the centuries. (Apr–Sept until 7 p. To return to the Romantic Road. Mittlere Gasse 13 (% 0821/3198810).m. gilded stucco. you may want to take a look at the humble Mozarthaus. where you find the Wieskirche (% 08862/501). Admission is free.m.m. Frauentorstrasse 30 (% 0821/324-3984). Residents pay an annual rent of 1€ (equivalent to one old Rhenish guilder) and are expected to pray three times a day for the soul of their benefactor. I strongly recommend that you make a short detour to Wies. Ludwig II’s famous castle in the Bavarian Alps. the Romantic Road passes through some industrialized areas that aren’t particularly appealing.50€ ($2). columns. the compound looks like a miniature town with 67 identical cottages containing 147 small apartments. Wolfie’s great-grandfather Franz Mozart.m. this rococo masterpiece was created by Dominikus Zimmermann (1685–1766). If you’re a fan of Mozart. Hoher Weg (% 0821/316-6353). Leopold. paintings by Hans Holbein the Elder. One of the world’s most exuberantly decorated buildings. a church. Auf dem Rain 7 (% 0821/324-2779) was the birthplace of playwright Bertolt Brecht (1898–1956) and today serves as a Brecht memorial.m. admission is 1€ ($1. the lightflooded interior with its enormous cupola shimmers with a superabundance of woodcarvings.m. to 6 p. but then the verdant (or snow-covered) pastures of the Bavarian Alps appear. a remarkable pilgrimage church in a beautiful alpine meadow (the name means “church in the meadow”). Behind a rather sober facade. and bright frescoes. Surrounded by walls and gates (locked 10 p. 6km (4 miles) southeast of the town of Steingaden off B17.298 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany The Wieskirche: Masterpiece in a meadow On the stretch of B17 from Augsburg to Füssen. dating from the 12th century. the Fuggerei Museum. It’s open March through December daily from 10 a.25). to 5 p. The church is open daily from 8 a. Dom St..

One parking lot serves both castles. Ludwig II spent much of his joyless childhood at Hohenschwangau with his strait-laced father and his mother. On some days. he built the Neo-Gothic castle you see today and used it as a summer holiday residence. is the less remarkable and more intimate of the two. To save yourself time. A tour number and entry time are printed on your ticket.000 people visit. Neuschwanstein. . Ten buses a day (no. was the fairy-tale concoction of Maximilian’s son. Be prepared for long lines (sometimes up to 3 hours) in the summer. open Monday through Friday from 8 a. to noon. then Bavaria’s crown prince. A digital sign informs you when your tour is ready. Maximilian II. bought it in 1832. built by Maximilian II in 1836. the nearest large town (described later in this chapter). 9713) arrive from Füssen.) The royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein are the most popular tourist attractions in Germany. try to arrive as soon as the castles open in the morning. Saturday from 9 a. the two Bavarian royal castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein (and the nearby town of Füssen) mark the end of the Romantic Road.m. it’s a 7km (4-mile) drive along a signposted road.m. The rooms of Hohenschwangau were designed and furnished in a ponderous “Gothic Castle” style that was fashionable in the 1830s and 1840s. feed your ticket into the turnstile in front of the respective castle. You can see the castles only on guided tours. head south along B17 to Schwangau.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 299 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air Located 116km (72 miles) southwest of Munich. A ticket office near the parking lot of the castles sells tickets for both Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. to 5 p. Hohenschwangau. especially in August. On the ruins.m. Getting there If you’re driving from Augsburg along the Romantic Road. Exploring Hohenschwangau The castle was a 600-year-old ruin when Ludwig’s father. parking costs 4€ ($5). King Ludwig II. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter.. 25. From there. Münchenerstrasse 2 (% 08362/81980). Tours in English are available throughout the day. When the time comes. Queen Maria of Prussia. The tour guide will meet you inside. which last about 35 minutes each. receiving nearly a million visitors a year. the most photographed building in Germany. Finding information and buying tickets Information about both castles and the region in general is available in Schwangau at the Kurverwaltung (tourist office) in the Rathaus.

Alpseestrasse (% 08362/81127). Born in Munich in 1845. the extravagant dream king financed Wagner. Ludwig went so far as to reconstruct the Venus grotto from Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. Three days later..m.50€ ($4. and in 1886. handsome. The bus ride. costs 1.m. you can take a bus to Marienbrücke.m. 170-step stairway and takes about ten minutes. and the grand piano on which the two played duets. For many years. he often had Wagner’s operas performed for his own solitary pleasure. named for the wall paintings depicting the saga of Lohengrin (a Germanic hero associated with the swan). is open daily. the walk to the castle entrance includes a steep. plays. Biographies. which starts in front of the Schlosshotel Lisl near the parking lot.” later in this chapter).40) for the trip up to the castle . Ludwig grew bored with the affairs of state and eventually became more and more obsessed with acting out his extravagant fantasies. he was found drowned in Lake Starnberg on the outskirts of Munich. A more picturesque way to reach Neuschwanstein is by horse-drawn carriage. 30-minute climb from the parking lot at Hohenschwangau Castle. At Linderhof. he is “the dream king. is one of the castle’s most attractive chambers. along with the physician who had declared him insane. which begins at the ticket office. and even a musical have been written about him. Michael’s Church) in Munich contains Ludwig’s grave and those of other Wittelsbach royals. Ludwig II is “the mad king. films. The carriage ride. Exploring Neuschwanstein Reaching the castle entrance involves a steep 800m (1⁄2-mile). self-obsessed monarch has become one of the legendary figures in Bavarian history.300 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Ludwig II: Madman or dreamer? For some.” This strange. A patron of the composer Richard Wagner. who was first invited to Hohenschwangau by a teenaged Ludwig. to 4 p. The Hall of the Swan Knight. and blue-eyed. From Marienbrücke.80€ ($2. he was declared insane. The music room on the second floor contains copies of letters between Ludwig II and his musical idol.” For others. The most famous of his design efforts is the turreted castle of Neuschwanstein.m. to 6 p. costs 3. October 16 to March 14 hours are 9:30 a. March 15 to October 15 hours are 8:30 a. the first palace that he built (see “A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles.25). Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults and 8€ ($10) for students and children 6 to 15. Was he murdered or did he commit suicide? No one knows. The crypt of the Michaelskirche (St. perched on a crag high above the town of Schwangau. Hohenschwangau. Tall. Richard Wagner. Ludwig II was only 18 years old when he was crowned king of Bavaria. at age 41. a bridge that crosses over the Pöllat Gorge and offers a panoramic view of the castle dramatically perched on its crag above. If you don’t want to walk. Ludwig’s excesses eventually threatened to bankrupt the kingdom.

Wagnerian and other classical music concerts take place in the Singer’s Hall.m.) waterfall in the Pöllat Gorge. Located at Neuschwansteinstrasse 20 (% 08362/81035).50€ ($1. The king’s study is decorated with painted scenes from the medieval legend of Tannhäuser.m. At Neuschwanstein..Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 301 entrance and 1. he received news of his dethronement.m. free for children ages 6 to 14. A stairway of white Carrara marble leads up to the golden apse where the king’s throne was to stand. to 4 p. the German form of Art Nouveau. October through March. The throne room.m. Ludwig watched the construction of his dream palace through a telescope from neighboring Hohenschwangau. . Building began in 1869 and continued for some 17 years. Everything from curtains to chair coverings is made of silk embroidered with the gold-and-silver Bavarian coat of arms. after Wartburg castle in Eisenach. Decorated with marble columns and frescoes depicting the life of Parsifal. Three days later he was dead. Tickets go on sale in early June and always sell out quickly. Through the balcony window you can see the 46m-high (150-ft. contact the Verkehrsamt (tourist office) in Schwangau (% 08362/81980). Admission is 9€ ($11) for adults. Between 1884 and 1886. From April through September. the castle can be visited year-round by guided tour only. Buy tickets from the bus driver or at the carriage. from 10 a. stopping only when Ludwig died in 1886. with the mountains in the distance. Paintings of Christ looking down on the 12 Apostles and 6 canonized kings of Europe decorate the walls and ceiling. tours depart every half-hour from 9 a. a mythical medieval knight. The intricate woodcarving in the king’s bedroom took 41⁄2 years to complete. The sumptuous ornamentation seen throughout the castle influenced Jugendstil. A 20-minute film about the life of Ludwig II is shown in an auditorium. the site of song contests in the Middle Ages. the Sängerhalle (Singer’s Hall) takes up almost the entire fourth floor of the castle. Artisans carved wall panels to look like Gothic windows. designed to look like a Romanesque basilica with columns of red porphyry and a mosaic floor. was never completed. to 6 p. In September. After you leave the guided tour. For information and reservations. 8€ ($10) for children and students. Architects modeled the room. Be aware that the carriages are sometimes crowded. another architectural fantasy.90) for the descent. the king lived in Neuschwanstein on and off for 170 days. The ornate bed rests on a raised platform with an elaborately carved canopy. you can make your way down to see the enormous kitchens of the castle. a mural depicts the legend of the doomed lovers Tristan and Isolde.

25. and beverages.m. Divided by the Lech 87629 Füssen (% 08362/ 91600. The 35 comfortable rooms are small to medium in size. December Summer hours are Monday to Friday 8:30 a. Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road Situated in foothills of the Bavarian Alps.m. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www.302 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Neuschwanstein is closed November 1. has been owned and operated by the same family for generations. and Saturday from 10 a. Main courses go for 8€ to 16€ ($10–$20). desserts. Finding information Füssen Tourismus operates two tourist offices. and Shrove Tuesday (the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday on the Christian calendar). www.hotel-hechten. when Füssen was a trading station. Dining near the castles Neuschwanstein has a pleasant cafe where you can get sandwiches. where the restaurant serves sandwiches. bahn. the medieval town of Füssen marks the official end (or beginning) of the Romantic Road. you can eat outdoors on the terrace of Hotel Müller. www.m. or larger meals. January 1.000 inhabitants has lovely squares and narrow cobblestone streets flanked by medieval stone houses. Trains from Munich (trip time 21⁄2 hours) and Frankfurt (trip time 5–51⁄2 hours) arrive frequently throughout the day. Füssen is an atmospheric place to headquarter while exploring the castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau or other places in the Bavarian Alps. another in the Rathaus (town hall). Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/ 93850 for both. Staying in Füssen Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten. 119km (74 miles) southwest of Munich and just 3km (2 miles) from Neuschwanstein. (See the “Füssen” map in this chapter. This spotless guesthouse with blooming flower boxes exudes an air of old-fashioned Bavarian hospitality. From Munich. this town of 15.m. Ritterstrasse 6. Its history dates back to Roman times. to 5 p. Otherwise.m. take the A8 Autobahn west to Landsberg and then head south on B17. you encounter no lack of restaurants (or hotels) right around the parking lot near Hohenschwangau. to 6:30 p. and Saturday from 10 a.m. most have small . soup.) Getting there If you’re driving along the Romantic Road from Augsburg. to noon. For train information. continue south on B17. winter hours are Monday to Friday from 9 a. one at Kaiser-MaximilianPlatz 1. and If the weather is fine. herring. to noon.

Feriengasthof Helmer. 87645 Schwangau (% 08362/9800.25 mi N Zi e l ge Bgm . a small village about 4km (21⁄2 miles) east of Füssen. is a traditional Bavarian guesthouse with views of the mountains and nearby castles. Ritterstr. some have balconies. BAD FAULENBACH e strass Alatsee St. 2 3 e kt) riss Mo nmar e och W Mag nu sp l. Augustenstra sse Schiess haus gas se sse trass e Mar nh of strass Sud e ete nst nstrass e Rudolf strasse -F Sonne a ass e e ss stra sse uiterJesa g s se Ga sse ngasse s tr ost Ott asse ras s Lu itp old s tr e Hoc re y be rg -St r KaiserMaximilian. rstr.-SebastianKirche ALTER FRIEDHOF Fra nzi nerpla tz ska B ru nn e Kemptener Str.-Wa 1 der An dsaul Bil hhalde 8 To Schloss Neuschwanstein. B m arotrkt F r a n zisk a n erg.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 303 Füssen Information Post Office Railway inkel genstr.Sc hulhausstr.-Samer-Str . American ellenberg Kap Am F gässchen nbach aule Flos serg asse S t a dtbl iche e Hamburg Berlin uer Strasse wanga S ch e lbachgasse trass Müh S r e l ro Ti 4 Mü hle nw eg Lec h GE R M A NY Frankfurt Munich Füssen ACCOMMODATIONS Altstadt-Hotel zum Hechten 2 Feriengasthof Helmer 8 DINING Fischerhütte 1 Zum Schwanen 7 ATTRACTIONS Hohes Schloss 3 Kloster St.25 km Str. most have showers in r gs tras se i llner- Wachsb leiche Church I 0 0. d- König-Lu dwi g-P hstif rom tstr en asse ad e bur ger stra str. The hotel is located directly below the castle in Füssen’s Altstadt (Old Town). Located in Schwangau. Rupprechtstrasse Ziegelangerweg Schmid Sch lesie str. m er au er Rathaus 5 6 i Lec n t se d as 7 A Sta italg Sp d ( Dre he r Pfarrg. Schwangau rsse Flo asse g . Rack rates for a double room with buffet breakfast range from 74€ to 84€ ($92–$105). Mitteldorf 10. Platz Se ba s ti a Schran n st nr ass gassne e e g asse i r. Huterg. be rg Tegel- Dr. www. MasterCard. The rooms all are furnished differently. n Vo ZIEGELBERG 0 0. and Visa are accepted. Kemptener Str. Schloss Hohenschwangau. be Glü c Hin te re k A LT S TA D T hen Reic St.-Mang 5 Lechfall 4 Museum der Stadt Füssen 6 shower-only bathrooms. Theresienstras se Bahnhof Bah Aug s iens Kar l- Ege rlan str.hotel-helmer.

(Nov–Mar 2–4 p. The powerful prince-bishops of Augsburg used the Hohes Schloss. and 6:30 to 10 p. % 08362/91970).m. MasterCard is the only credit card accepted. Access to the secularized church complex is through the Museum der Stadt Füssen (City Museum). The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 a. A few meat dishes are also available.D. as a summer residence. serves a flavorful blend of Swabian and Bavarian cuisine. where you find a collection of Swabian artwork from the 1400s to the 1700s. which occupies the former state apartments of the abbey and displays artifacts relating to the history and culture of the region. Hopfen am See (5km/3 miles northwest of Füssen. Kids enjoy the nearby pool and find plenty of room to play outside. to 2 p. Brotmarkt 4 (% 08362/6174). 1000. Zum Schwanen. to 5 p. children younger than 14 free.m.m. Stay here if you want old-fashioned atmosphere. Dining in Füssen Fischerhütte.75–$22). Immediately below the castle lies the Kloster St. Specialties include homemade sausage. Small and old-fashioned. Menu offerings may include Alaskan salmon. Lechhalde 3 (% 08362/903-145). specializes in seafood from around the world. and Visa are accepted.m.75) for admission. to 9:30 p. Exploring Füssen Füssen’s main attraction is the Hohes Schloss (High Castle). founded by Benedictine monks in the eighth century on the site where an Irish missionary monk named St. one of the finest late-Gothic castles in Bavaria. Rack rates for a double room with breakfast are 78€ to 108€ ($97–$135). MasterCard and Visa are accepted. Admission is 3€ ($3.m. . Service is helpful and attentive. (Nov–Mar. Magnusplatz (% 08362/903-146).m. Now the castle is the home of the Staatsgalerie. roast pork. Magnus). American Express.-Mang (Monastery of St. The restaurant is open daily from 10 a. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. North Atlantic lobster. or grilled halibut. In the early 18th century. 1–4 p. MasterCard. Main courses go for 11€ to 25€ ($ 14–$ 31).m.m.) and charges 3€ ($3. Zum Schwanen is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. at the edge of a small lake within sight of dramatic mountain scenery. The Romanesque crypt in front of the high altar contains frescoes painted around A.). Magnus died in 750. to 4 p.304 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the bathrooms. a local architect.75) for adults. French-style bouillabaisse. and portions are generous.m. reached by a steep lane behind the parish church.m. Main courses range from 7€ to 18€ ($8. fresh local trout. Johann-Jakob Herkomer. turned the church and monastery into a baroque gem with a strong Venetian influence. lamb. Reservations are recommended. Diners can enjoy Bavarian specialties during the summer in an outdoor beer garden. Uferstrasse 16. including a collection of locally produced violins and lutes. and venison.

call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. this family-owned and -operated hotel offers cozy accommodations at moderate prices. Despite the commercial. and Sundays and holidays from 10 a. The trip time from Munich is about 11⁄2 hours. the Alpspitze and the Waxensteine. is a popular walk from Fü is open Monday to Saturday from 8 a. The Bayerische Zugspitzbahn at Garmisch (% 08821/7970) provides rail service to the top of the Zugspitze and other local peaks. you still find charming details: the sound of cowbells in the meadows outside town. located where the Lech River squeezes through a rocky gorge and over a high ledge. The office supplies maps and details of area hikes and attractions.bahn. and in 1978.m.) In 1936. hiding Germany’s tallest mountain. The .de. the twin villages of Garmisch and Partenkirchen comprise Germany’s top winter-sports resort. Finding information The tourist information office at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2 (% 08821/180700.m. Two giant peaks. you can walk to all the centrally located hotels. www. to 6 p. Garmisch’s main square. the quieter side of town.m. and streets and lanes (particularly in Partenkirchen) with a quiet. rear up to the south of town. Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen A free municipal bus runs every 15 minutes between the Bahnhof (train station) and Marienplatz. Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoys a stunning location at the foot of the Wetterstein range. To reach GarmischPartenkirchen by car from Munich. Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze Located about 97km (60 miles) southwest of Munich. to noon. (See the “Garmisch-Partenkirchen” map in this chapter. the famed Zugspitze. Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren $ Partenkirchen Located in Partenkirchen. village atmosphere. take the A95 Autobahn and exit at Eschenlohe. For information and schedules. the trip takes about one hour. a waterfall less than a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) south of town. Getting there Trains run frequently from all directions to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. the towns played host to the World Alpine Ski Championships.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 305 The Lechfall. From Marienplatz. the fourth Winter Olympics took place here.garmisch-partenkirchen. A pedestrian footbridge spans the falls. touristy air of the towns.

. each has a small bathroom with tub or shower. V. Rates include buffet breakfast. 307. It’s a touristy scene but fun. Ludwigstrasse 24. MC. MC. and a backdrop of forest-covered mountains.–2:30 p. V. See map p. % 08821/943040. V. Reservations recommended. and ragout of venison. The best way to explore this international resort is simply to stroll around the town and its environs. Main courses: 8€–14€ ($10–$17). ham hocks with sauerkraut. Traditional Bavarian and Mediterranean specialties are on the menu. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. % 08821/9130. www. summer hiking. Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Alpenhof $ –$$ Garmisch BAVARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Locals regard the Alpenhof as one of the finest restaurants in Garmisch. Children younger than 6 stay free in their parents’ room. Am Kurpark 10. and mountain climbing. V. Ludwigstrasse 65. See map p.vierjahreszeiten. Reservations recommended. and 5–10 p. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a center for winter sports. Fax: 08821/74548.m.m. Rates: 70€–90€ ($87–$112) double. enjoying the panoramic views of the Alps and the colorful buildings that line the side streets. Riffelstrasse 17. some with a private balcony. % 08821/59055.–11:30 p. grilled salmon. For dessert. The hotel is close to the Zugspitze Bahnhof and the Olympic Ice Stadium. musicians. MC. Fax: 08821/18974. 307. Rates: 78€–112€ ($97–$140) double. DC. a pretty garden. 307. Hotel Hilleprandt $ –$$ Garmisch This chalet. See map p. Closed 3 weeks in Nov. MC. is an excellent budget choice. See map p. The tiled bathrooms have either showers or tub-shower combinations.306 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany 25 rooms are comfortable without a lot of frills. and so are fresh trout. and duck. are small but very comfortable.hotel-hilleprandt. Rates include buffet breakfast. with wooden balconies. % 08821/9270.m. AE.m. Gasthof Fraundorfer $ –$$ Partenkirchen BAVARIAN Visitors to Garmisch-Partenkirchen enjoy this large restaurant because every evening The 13 rooms. Open: Daily except Tuesday 11 a.m. 307. Open: Daily 11:30 a. try a soufflé. pork cutlets. www. The food is hearty and uncomplicated: potato soup with wurst. an outdoor terrace. 82467 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. and dancers provide Bavarian entertainment.

mst up str.Chamonix.M To Zugspitze Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt Munich Built for the 1936 Winter Olympics. is the Jagdschloss Schachen Kr a ig s dw Lu str. enjoy nature. Pr rs t ei n str. - rt Ma Bayerische Str. r.000 spectators. % 08821/753-294) in Garmisch contains three giant skating rinks with stands for 12.St str. this ski facility opened in 1936 and remains an integral part of winter life in Garmisch. the Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum (Olympic Ice Stadium.S To Jagdschloss Schachen/ Eckbauer/ Partnachklamm Gorge tr.75) for children 6 to 15.20€ ($2. . with two ski jumps and a slalom course. str 5 eld r. People come from around the world to roam the mountain paths (called Hohenwege. p ia Klam tr. burgHinden s trasse s o p henw e nch g sse stra ne r.Kongresshaus .. The ice rinks are open to the public daily (except from the middle of May through June) from 10 a. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. Riffe 2 3 Kla mm str.En Lo zianen Kurhaus Straussstr. ar tin s str. ru g PARK ch Von-B h i c isa Richard. One hiking destination. enf a int Re Ha .2 km 0.m. or “high ways”). 1. Like the ice stadium. On the slopes at the edge of town is the Olympia-Skistadion (Olympic Ski Stadium). 2. str. spitz r.2 mi . wig L ud 4 n So nb ne r. r n st Höl r. fstr nho Bah Ol y m Ach tr. The World Cup Ski Jump takes place here every January 1.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 307 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Herbst Alte Kirche Bu rgstr. on Sat and Sun). 6 ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Hilleprandt 2 Hotel-Gasthof Drei Mohren 5 DINING Alpenhof 1 Gasthof Fraundorfer 4 ATTRACTIONS Olympia-Eissport-Zentrum 3 Olympia-Skistadion 6 Church Information i Post Office Railway 0 0 0. s trasse fs ho hn Ba tr. Rathausplatz str. M H au p t- P h il o Mü winkelst r. tr. om rk Platz a p m Am K u r er s 1 Marien. rst ad Lo Z ug r.) above Garmisch-Partenkirchen and accessible only by foot (the climb is strenuous). and watch animals in the forest. St . Bahnhof Par tn ch tna Pa r ch a u a ss ra A lps p it z e - ü ll e z-M Frit r eito Dr Garmisch-Partenkirchen str. KUR. lst t st S t.m.628 ft. to noon (also 2–4 p. t s r platz z t spi et W rt Pa isa e s tr. gst er te chna ar tin -S Sc ho en str. Alpine hiking is a major summertime attraction. alst lent r. Zugspitzbahn inlstr.688m (5.

but the king insisted on an elaborately fanciful Moorish-style interior. Ascending the Zugspitze For a spectacular view of the Bavarian and the Tyrolean (Austrian) Alps.m.m. both involving a ride on a cog railway and a cable car: ߜ The first way begins with a trip on the Zugspitzbahn (cog railway). Germany’s tallest mountain (2. A round-trip ticket enables you to ascend one-way and descend the other for the widest range of spectacular views. At the Zugspitzplatte. The only way to see the lodge is by guided tour (in German only).720 32€ ($39) for youths 16 and 17. (5:30 p. where you find extraordinary panoramas. The stop is next to an alpine lake and clearly marked. Brauhausstrasse 19. to 4:30 p.m..m.308 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08821/2996). Total travel time to the top is about 55 minutes. Discovering the local nightlife From mid-May through September.).. which departs from the back of Garmisch’s main railway station daily every hour from 8:35 a. given at 11 a. you can go all the way to the summit of the Zugspitze. 2 p. the Garmisch park bandstand plays host to classical concerts Saturday through Thursday. The train travels uphill. for a four-minute ride uphill to the Zugspitzgipfel (summit).960m/9.m. You need about four hours to get there and back. and 3 p. free for children younger than 14. disembarking 14km (9 miles) southwest of Garmisch at the lower station of the Eibsee Sielbahn (Eibsee Cable Car). past giant boulders and rushing streams. A family ticket for two adults and one child costs 100€ ($125). Garmisch-Partenkirchen (% 08821/797-900. Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. 1 p. in July and Aug).m. a high plateau with sweeping views.m. and many alpine trails. the Gletscherbahn. From here. the cable car carries you to the Zugspitzgipfel. Check with the local tourist .m. a hunting lodge built by Ludwig II. ߜ The second way to get to the summit of the Zugspitze is to take the Zugspitzbahn for a shorter trip. Olympiastrasse 27.m. the “dream king. a cafe and restaurant. Bavarian folk music and dancing take place every Saturday night in the Bayernhalle. The exterior of the lodge resembles a Swiss chalet. On Friday. these concerts move to the Partenkirchen bandstand. The tourist office in GarmischPartenkirchen (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) can supply further details. you transfer onto a cable car. The entire trip takes about 40 minutes. The round-trip fare is 44€ ($55) for adults. to 2:35 p. contact the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn. For more information. and 27€ ($33) for children ages 6 to 15.zugspitze.. The Eibsee Sielbahn makes runs every half-hour from 8:30 a.” in 1871. www. from early June to early October. to the Zugspitzplatte. a gift shop. During the same season. You can choose between two different ways to reach the Zugspitze from the center of Garmisch.

500m to 1. animals. and linden. 16-act drama depicting Christ’s journey to the Cross every decade since 1680 (the last was in 2000. the following stores are reliable: ߜ Holzschnitzerei Franz Barthels. Most of the carvings are of religious scenes.Chapter 16: The Romantic Road and Daytrips in Bavaria 309 Oberammergau: Woodcarvers and Passion plays An alpine village located 20km (12 miles) north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Prices start around 11€ ($14) and go up to 5. Competition is fierce for sales of local woodcarvings made in hamlets and farmhouses throughout the region. and in reverse. A shuttle bus runs back and forth between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau daily. Passionswiese 1 (% 08822/92310). but you also find drinking or hunting scenes. pine. If you’re looking for authentic woodcarvings. Performances take place in the Passionspiel Theater. Schnitzlergasse 4 (% 08822/4271). a crowd from around the world converges on Oberammergau to see the Passionspiele (Passion Play). Oberammergau has been famous for its woodcarvers and Hinterglas artists since the 15th century. everything from small figures of saints for 54€ ($67) to jumping jacks with movable legs for 36€ ($45). Actors must be natives of or have lived in the town for at least 20 years. the next one will be held in 2010.110€ ($ 6. an art form unique to Bavaria. The cast for this religious epic numbers in the hundreds. A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig’s little Versailles A scenic drive through the Emmertal. the next will be in 2010). office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section) for details about these programs.) peaks. is painting done directly on glass. Locals have performed the 51⁄2-hour. Dorfstrasse 27 (% 08822/821). and folkloric figures.000. If you’re coming by car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen.000-ft. takes you to Schloss Linderhof .388). Every ten years. Croatia. Actors first performed the famous Passion play in Oberammergau in 1634 when the town’s citizens took a vow to give thanks for being spared from the plague. take E533 north and turn west onto B23 at Oberau. The twin towns also play host to a Folklore Week in early August and a five-day Richard Strauss Festival in June. and parts of Austria. Know before you buy that even some of the most expensive “handmade” pieces may have been carved by machine prior to being finished off by hand. ߜ Tony Baur. a valley flanked by 1.800m (5. has the most-sophisticated inventory of woodcarvings crafted from maple. the composer lived in Garmisch from 1908 until 1949. sells a wide range of carvings. Hinterglas (behind glass) painting.

the most elaborate of King Ludwig II’s fairy-tale palaces. The rustic lodge was transformed into a small. in which he was rowed about the lake. October through March. Admission in the summer is 7€ ($8.m. 6€ ($7. thanks in large part to the beauty of its natural setting in the Ammerberge range and its formal French gardens. www. and crystal chandeliers. The original colored-light effects still illuminate the room. feed your ticket through the electronic turnstile to gain entrance. Linderhof is an extremely popular tourist attraction. King Ludwig II decided to redesign this former royal hunting lodge to resemble the Petit Trianon at Versailles.m. You can see the palace only by guided tour. mirrors.. which is a riot of neo-rococo flashiness. A sign at the front of the palace tells you what group is currently being admitted. The ornate exterior is actually restrained when compared with the interior. take the Munich–Garmisch Autobahn (A95) south. For all its ostentation. The palace and grounds are open April through September daily from 9 a. When your time arrives. the Grotto and other park buildings close.50) for seniors 65 and older and for for adults. inspired by the famous Blue Grotto at Capri. A guide will meet your group outside the castle.25) for students and seniors. Winter admission is 6€ ($7. glittering with gold leaf. with stalagmites and stalactites dividing the cavelike room into three chambers.310 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany (% 08822/92030.) Getting there If you’re driving from Munich. so arrive early or you may have a long wait. turning west on B23 about 5km (3 miles) toward Ettal. Linderhof is open year-round and makes a wonderful daytrip from Munich or Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Linderhof is not without charm. which had artificial waves. tours in English are available throughout the day. dazzling-white château overloaded with statues and decorations derived from many different periods and countries. to 6 p. Your ticket has a specific entry time. but the castle is open daily from 10 a. Exploring Schloss Linderhof In 1869. swan-shaped boat. The parking fee is 2€ ($2.m. to 4 p.50) for adults. 5€ ($6. and then drive for 13km (8 miles) on the signposted road. On the lake. Built of artificial rock. including the Grotte (Grotto). Ludwig kept two swans and a gilded. The park contains several small. fanciful buildings.m. the Grotto contains an artificial lake fed by an artificial waterfall and a stage hung with a backdrop scene of the first act of Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. (See “The Romantic Road” map earlier in this chapter.50). passing the hamlet of Graswang on the way.linderhof. .

Germany’s largest lake ᮣ Discovering the island city of Lindau ᮣ Exploring the Black Forest ᮣ Bathing in Baden-Baden ᮣ Wandering through the medieval town of Freiburg S outhwestern Germany is an area rich in scenic splendor. vineyards slope down to crowded marinas. the countries that share its 258km (160 miles) of shoreline. you . while towns on the lake bask in an almost Mediterranean balminess. The widest point is almost 14km (9 miles) across.) Atmospheric old towns such as Freiburg share the forest setting with glamorous resorts like BadenBaden. one of the great lakes of Europe. it’s called Lake Constance. this 74km-long (46-mile) lake in the foothills of the Alps (elevation 395m/1.Chapter 17 The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights In This Chapter ᮣ Enjoying the Bodensee. Visitors to the Bodensee enjoy the warm climate and stunning scenery. Vineyards and fruit orchards thrive in the region’s mild. Looking south across the lake.300 ft. In Switzerland and Austria. The Bodensee is Germany’s largest and Central Europe’s third-largest lake. you ask: the Bodensee or Lake Constance? Both names are correct. and charming old towns bask in the golden sun. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) What is the proper name. you find the Bodensee. sunny climate. On the north (German) shore. (See “The Bodensee [Lake Constance]” map in this chapter. In this corner of the country. In Germany.) is called the Bodensee. and the legendary Black Forest.

take the A96 Autobahn and then B31 into Lindau.m. Lindau: Sunny island charmer The historic island-town of Lindau. By car from Munich. makes a good place to stay. flower-bedecked squares and a harborside Part IV: Southern and Western Germany see the towering. or Old Town. turning south on B12 (Kemptenstrasse). After you cross the causeway. www.m. and the train station is right in the Altstadt across from the harbor. You even find subtropical vegetation growing in sheltered but for the most part the lake is placid. From Lindau. The Altstadt. and Switzerland. to 6 p. is open April through October. Day and overnight tickets for car parks can be purchased from ticket machines. the entire trip takes three hours. Lindau (% 08382/2754810. Lindau is on a major rail line. Basel. Getting to Lindau Lindau is one of the Bodensee’s major transportation hubs. located 179km (111 miles) southwest of Munich at the northeastern corner of the For information and train schedules. you can travel by boat to towns in Austria and Switzerland and to Konstanz on the western side of the lake.. because you won’t be able to drive into the historic center. Lindau is a popular tourist destination that feels a bit like an Italian resort. A town of pretty. Saturday .bsb-online. stopping at Meersburg and Mainau. a lovely island city on the northeastern shore. So many historic buildings line its narrow streets that the entire town is a protected landmark. Lindau. was founded in the ninth century.lindau-tourismus. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. follow B310 and B308 west. Schützingerweg 2. the newer part of Lindau spreads out to the mainland. By train. If you’re driving from Füssen. occupies a small island in the lake (accessible by a causeway).) A profusion of gardens gives the town a quasi-Mediterranean air. across from the train station. and Zurich. Check with the tourist office in Lindau or contact Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. A road bridge and a causeway for walkers and trains connect the town to the mainland. and Hafenstrasse 6. snow-capped Alps. Finding information and taking a tour The Lindau tourist information office. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. Several ferries per day link Konstanz with Lindau. Konstanz (% 07531/ 3640-398). and for hundreds of years the town was a center of trade between Bavaria. Ludwigstrasse 68 (% 08382/260030. Prague. Monday through Friday 9 a. you can get direct connections to Lindau from Munich. Fierce winds from the mountains occasionally whip up the waters of the Bodensee. www. park in one of the large car parks outside the Altstadt. Italy.

L UX. . S W I T Z E R L A N D Rorschach Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest R ANCE F RANC E Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Staad Bregenz A U S T R I A The Bodensee (Lake Constance) 313 S WI SW ITZ TZ. LU X. GERMANY s e e BE L. A US TRIA AU S TRI A . REP. am Main Frankfurt Arbon CZECH C ZECH RE P. BEL . NET H.0 5 mi 5 km B34 0 Weingarten Ravensburg Ferry Üb erl ing er Se Überlingen Markdorf B32 B33 e B31 Radolfzell G E R M A N Y To Munich Airport E43 E54 Zelle rsee Mainau Immenstaad B30 B31 Reichenau Untersee Tettnang Eriskirch B467 Gn B33 ade nse e Meersburg Wangen B12 Konstanz Friedrichshafen B32 D EN M AR K MA RK B o Kressbronn B12 Hamburg d Langenargen Deutsche Alpenstrasse Berlin Romanshorn e n Wasserburg Lindau B308 B308 POLAND N E TH .

V. Its harborside kiosk has excursion information and timetables. comfortable. Staying in Lindau Lindau is a tourist-oriented resort town. The Lindau Stadtbus (city bus.m. Fax: 08382/ 4133. The Seegarten has flower-filled balconies and spacious rooms. so hotels in all price categories are available. located at the end of the causeway. two connected buildings with 64 rooms between them..m. Hotel-Garni Brugger $ Altstadt This welcoming 23-room hotel. tiled bathrooms have showers (two rooms have tubs and showers). outdoor pool. is the best affordable choice in Lindau. MC. 315. AE. some with lake views.314 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and Sunday 9:30 a. modern style with lots of light.hotel-garni-brugger. November through March. to noon and 2 to 5 p.m. The Reutemann has large rooms and bathrooms with showers and big tubs. More luxurious is the adjacent Hotel Bayerischer Hof. See map p. Larger rooms with small sitting areas are in an older building (a glass-roofed conservatory connects the two). The small. from April through October. www. call Taxi-Ring-Zentrale (% 0800-60066666) or Lindauer Funk-Taxi (% 08382/4455) % 08382/704-242) provides halfhourly service to all parts of Lindau daily from early morning until 10:40 p. . The location is an easy walk from the lake and casino. is flat and easily walkable. to 4 p. % 08382/93410. the cost is 4€ ($5). Monday through Friday 9 a. located right on the harbor promenade. You can join a guided walking tour on Monday (in English) or Tuesday and Friday mornings (in German) at 10 a. Some open onto a rear balcony. and sauna. DC. 88131 Lindau. The décor is modern in both.m. The group meets in front of the tourist office. the island part of Lindau. fitness center. If you want a taxi. Rates: 86€–92€ ($107–$115) double. Getting around Lindau The charming Altstadt. part of the same management. Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten $$ –$$$$ Altstadt One of the nicest places to stay on the Bodensee is the upscale lakeside Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten. For information on boat trips around the Bodensee.m. Rates include continental breakfast. All three buildings share a lakefront garden with sunbathing areas. contact BodenseeSchiffsbetriebe (% 08382/2754810). The rooms are up-to-date and furnished in a functional. Bei der Heidenmauer 11.

iespl P arad Z e pp e l in fpl at Hamburg Berlin 19 Se e ha f e n Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest ATTRACTIONS Altes Rathaus 10 Diebsturm 7 Löwenmole 19 Mangturm 17 Maria Himmelfahrt 14 Neuer Leuchtturm 20 Peterskirche 8 Römerschanze 18 Spielbank 6 Stadtmuseum 12 Stadtpark 4 St.1 km Eisen ba ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Bayerischer Hof 15 Hotel-Garni Brugger 5 Hotel Reutemann/ Hotel Seegarten 16 hnda 3 Ch e Rollschuhplatz Heidenm lle s-A lle e Rotkreuz Platz 4 DINING Hoyerberg Schlössle 2 RestaurantWeinstube Frey 9 Zum Sünfzen 11 8 rgeebe e Schn gass Au GROLL f W de ANLAGEN all m OSCAR- 6 Thiersch strasse gstr asse au asse er 5 zigerstr Zwan Auf der Mauer Alter Schulsse Schmiedga platz 13 r Grub e d n I er Kirchplatz msse MarktCra ga 12 platz 14 A L T S T A D T Stiftsplatz Strasse 11 Bindergasse sse stra g. Kron ngasse e .1 mi 1 mm K l e i n e r S e eb rü ck e 2 Se e 0 0. Stephan 13 Strandbad Eichwald 3 Strandbad Lindenhofbad 1 20 Information i G ER M ANY Frankfurt B o d e n s e e Lighthouse Post office Railway Munich Lindau Lindau 315 . erg rb Fä Sch ütz Lu Hauptbahnhof z S ro eep n ho eg i 15 me dw ig ing erw s tr se as Brettermark Rüberplatz t 16 na de 17 18 Bu rgga sse Dreierstrasse ertu en Hintere Insel Ludwigstra sse rmw Ba h eg Reichsplatz Ling teg msse Dam gas Pulverturm - Uferweg nilia 9 xim Ma 10 Fi s c her- Barfüsserplatz ga s s e 7 Schrannenplatz .0 0. mm Kru elg Ins Pulv rab Da mm g.

88131 Lindau. Rates: Hotel Reutemann/Hotel Seegarten 116€–210€ ($145–$262) double.–11 p. You can drive to these hotels and park in the underground garage. local perch stuffed with herbs. MC. Reservations recommended. The breakfast buffet is an additional 16€ ($20).m. 315. Fax: 08382/915591. Hoyerbergstrasse 64. You may want to sample the local Meersburger wines as you dine on chicken breast with raspberry sauce.m. 315. to pepper steaks. dependable food at reasonable prices.) % 08382/25295. The first-floor cafe is more informal. cafe Tues–Sat 2–4:30 p. Frey’s has outdoor tables on the pedestrian street and a small second-floor restaurant with a beamed ceiling and pleasantly old-fashioned ambience. MC. beef stroganoff. 315. Maximilianstrasse 15. Fresh fish from the Bodensee is a specialty. Seepromenade. Reservations required in the restaurant.–2:30 p.316 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Children younger than 10 stay free. Maximilianstrasse 1. trout baked in a potato crust.m.m. 315. with a view of the mountains and lake. not required in the cafe. and saddle of venison with flour dumplings and French beans. or spinach Spätzle (a potato-based pasta) baked with cheese and ham. AE. V. % 08382/9150. V. DC.m. DC. Open: Restaurant Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. . (From the causeway.m. See map p.bayerischerhof-lindau. Zum Sünfzen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/BAVARIAN This old restaurant at the east end of Maximilianstrasse serves good. Main courses: 8€–16€ ($10–$20). Main dishes: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). Hotel Bayerischer Hof 152€–291€ ($190–$364). and baby-sitting can be arranged. Dining in Lindau Hoyerberg Schlössle $$$$ Mainland CONTINENTAL The Hoyerberg Schlössle. Restaurant-Weinstube Frey $ Altstadt GERMAN The oldest Stubl (drinking and dining room) on Maximilianstrasse. located on the mainland about a 15-minute drive from the Altstadt. Main courses: 22€–35€ ($27–$44). Meals here are a memorable experience. AE.m. and roast pork with homemade Spätzle to filet of venison. Open: Daily 10:30 a. has few rivals on the Bodensee. and 5–11:30 p. Menu offerings vary seasonally but may typically include cream of scampi soup.m. www. DC.. See map p. % 08382/5278. Open: Daily 11 a. Dishes range from schnitzels (breaded veal cutlets). Fixed-price menus: 62€–79€ ($77–$98). at Lindau-Aeschach. See map p. % 08382/5865. and 6–10 p. No credit cards. AE. Closed Jan 15–Feb 28. take Langenweg and Friedrichshafener Strasse northwest to Hoyerbergstrasse. V. See map p. You can dine inside or out.

a pillar with a sculpted lion (the symbol of Bavaria) looking out over the lake.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 317 Exploring Lindau Lindau is best enjoyed by simply taking a couple of hours to stroll around the Altstadt.m. to 5 p. On the east side of Marktplatz stand side-by-side Lutheran and Catholic churches. In 1928.m. has . You can climb up the narrow spiral staircase of the lighthouse (open daily 9:30 a. A special attraction is the collection of mechanical musical instruments. Standing beside the Diebsturm on Schrannenplatz is Lindau’s oldest building. A rectangular building with a flat wooden ceiling and a tall. completed in 1856.50). and Sunday from 11 a.). and sculptures. 1000. The museum is open April through September Tuesday to Friday from 11 a. Stephan. once used as a council hall.– 5 p. The interior walls have late-15th-century frescoes by Hans Holbein the Elder.75€/$2.m.m... Flanking the harbor entrance is the 19th-century Neuer Leuchtturm (lighthouse) and the Löwenmole. Rising from the promenade at the edge of the harbor is the 13th-century tower called the Mangturm. Return to Maximilianstrasse and follow the street eastward to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). the Diebsturm (Thieves’ Tower). is the most attractive on the whole of the Bodensee. Built around 1370 at the most westerly point of the old town wall.25) for a panoramic vista of the Swiss and Austrian Alps across the water. Peter’s Church. you find the Stadtmuseum (Town Museum. square tower. Located just north of Maximilianstrasse. the town’s famous harbor. the church became a war memorial for the fallen soldiers of World War I. the Peterskirche (St. The building’s stepped gables are typical of the 15th-century Gothic style.m. houses the centuries-old town library (not open to the general public). admission 1. the Lutheran church on the left. erected in 1422 and notable for its grandly painted facade of a princely procession. In a stately. is the city’s most famous landmark. The interior. and historical toys. At night. The tower is not open to the public. St. but in the 16th century the building received a Renaissance face-lift. (See the “Lindau” map in this chapter. Continuing east on Maximilianstrasse and Cramergasse brings you to the Marktplatz (Market Square) with a pretty. silverware. the church was built around A. open daily 9 a. Successive eras saw the additions of other architectural styles. this round tower with projecting upper turrets and oriel windows once served as the town jail (hence its name). flower-bedecked fountain in the center. orchestral instruments. 18th-century baroque town house called the Haus zum Cavazzen.m. thousands of lights create a magical atmosphere around the harbor.) Located almost directly across from the main train station. % 08382/ 944-073). glassware. paintings. Lindau’s main pedestrian-only thoroughfare.. Saturday from 2 to 5 p. or “mangle house.D. to 5 p. tin and ceramic objects. the name derives from the laundry.m. and mechanical pianos. The museum contains a large collection of furniture (ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau).” that once stood beside the tower. including barrel organs.m.m. Admission is 2€ ($2.–5 p.

Chelles Allee 1 (% 08382/27740). the Catholic church on the right. to 7:30 p. Strandbad Lindenhofbad (% 08283/6637).m.m. on the mainland.m. to 1 p.m.m. Admission to the beach is 3€ ($3. 4 to Alwind.25). and women. on the mainland. this beach charges 2. and blackjack and roulette from 3 p. and from 2 to 6 p. to 2 a. The location is about a halfhour walk east along Uferweg.m.75) for adults.m. Enjoying lakeside activities For as little as 10€ ($13) you can rent a bike (Fahrrad. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. Admission is 2. pronounced strahndbod) are open in summer Monday through Friday from 10:30 a. or take bus no.m. is full of baroque decoration and has a frescoed ceiling. 2 to Anheggerstrasse. you come to the waterside Stadtpark (City Park) with its modern Spielbank (casino). 1 or no. with a grassy lakeside area and three heated swimming pools. The third beach. Continuing east from Marktplatz on Schmiedgasse. Admission is 2.m. Taking a turn at the tables At Lindau’s glitzy Spielbank (shpeel-bank. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.) If you’re driving through this part of southern Germany.m.” later in this chapter).m. is located in Lindenhof Park on the mainland. Römerschanze (% 08283/6830). to 5 p. west of the causeway. Mainau: A daytrip from Lindau The island of Mainau. 2€ ($2.m. Appropriate attire is a cut above casual: Men should wear a jacket and tie.50€ ($3. The bike-rental office. in the train station. Three lakeside beaches (a beach is a Strandbad. casino). and Saturday from 9:30 a. take bus no.50) for children. is the most scenic area for biking.318 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany a barrel-vaulted ceiling and a fairly bare interior. pronounced farahd) and go cycling along the shores of the Bodensee. famed for its subtropical gardens. The churches generally are open from 8 a. to 8 p. you can play slot machines from noon to 2 a.50) for children.50€ ($3) for adults. something dressy..m. is open Monday through Friday from 9 a. . a smaller beach popular with families. Fahrrad-Station-Lindau (% 08382/21261). then bus no. Lindenhofpark. The biggest beach is Strandbad Eichwald (% 08283/5539).50€ ($2) for children. you may want to stop at Mainau on your way to or from Freiburg in the Black Forest (see “Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books. is located next to Lindau harbor in the Altstadt. makes for a pleasant daytrip from Lindau. 3 to Karmelbuckel.50€ ($3) for adults and 1. Maria Himmelfahrt (Church of the Ascension). 2€ ($2. and a passport is required as proof of age. to 7 p. To reach it.m.

Service is less frequent on Saturdays. tens of thousands of tulips in the spring. Admission is 12€ ($15) for adults. The island’s gardens are open daily year-round. and the Orangery.) .–6 p. citrus and fruit trees. costs 31€ ($39). and easily walk through Mainau. Lindau (% 08382/2754810.90€ ($5) for children.m. gardens that his great-grandchild.m. to 8 p. 3. the largest city on the Bodensee.) and the Castle Café (open 11 a. orchids. From March 24 through October 24. a roundtrip Kombiticket. The island has a Mediterranean luxuriance that invites leisurely strolling. to dusk. from 8:30 a.m.–10 p. Butterflies from throughout the world flit and flutter through the Butterfly House. Grand Duke Friedrich I of Baden purchased the island as a summer residence. and roses in the summer fill the gardens.–8 p.m. not all of them stop at Mainau.bsb-online. and catch a car-ferry to Mainau. would later develop. 11€ ($14) for seniors older than 65. Visiting the island of Mainau The semitropical island of Mainau. provides daily passenger service by boat between Lindau. 31€ ($25) for family (parents and children up to 15). rhododendrons.m. he laid the foundations for the Arboretum. on the lake’s north shore. and an exhibition on Lake Constance in the castle. chanterelle mushrooms in late summer. If you’re driving.m. lies 6km (4 miles) north of Konstanz. two ferries per hour make the 4. Schützingerweg 2. and Konstanz. so check before boarding. the Palm House. A passionate plant lover. Palms.m. Sundays. to 11 p.).m. Admission includes the gardens.. which includes admission at Mainau.. A one-way fare from Lindau to Mainau is 11€ ($14). In 1853. in an arm of the Bodensee known as the Überlingersee. and holidays.2km (21⁄2-mile) crossing (one per hour through the night) to Konstanz. and game dishes in the fall. Contact Autofähre Konstanz-Meersburg (% 07531/803666) for information and schedules. winter hours are 9 a. you can park and leave your car in Meersburg. You can also drive west from Lindau to Meersburg. the Butterfly House. Mainau. which features seasonal specialties such as asparagus in the spring. because cars are restricted on the island. www. the Rose Garden. Count Lennart Bernadotte. This is the best (and only) way to see Mainau. the current owner of this 110-acre botanical wonderland.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 319 Getting to Mainau Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe. The baroque castle that forms the centerpiece of the island once was a residence of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. several places on the island are open daily for dining or a quick snack. hop on the ferry. Casual dining options include the Butterfly Bistro (open 10 a. azaleas.m. open 11 a. hours are 7 a.m. The island’s culinary high point is the Schwedenschenke (% 07531/303-156. where palms and orange trees grow and fragrant flowers bloom year-round.m. From April through mid-October.

320 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For more information. The Black Forest. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) adjoins the forest to the east. the mountainous. long associated with legends. meat and fowl dishes with creamy sauces. You can easily reach Baden-Baden and Freiburg. a spa resort with thermal waters and an elegant casino. and pretty spots where stressedout city dwellers take die Kur (the cure) at health resorts fill the pineand spruce-filled forest. and cuckoo clocks. chocolatey cake flavored with cherry preserves and called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cherry Cake).) For the Germans themselves.mainau. Schwarzwald Schinken (Black Forest smoked ham). If you want to sample other regional specialties. amid nature. fairy tales. however. and the medieval university town of Freiburg. about 145km (90 miles) long and 40km (25 miles) wide. hiking trails. Visitors with limited time generally skip the area’s cure and sports aspects and focus instead on the scenic pleasures of the Schwarzwald.000 years ago. Most restaurants make their own Hauswurst (sausage) and guard the recipe. come to two cities in particular: Baden-Baden. and wild game such as venison and boar. which dominates the southwestern corner of Germany. You can explore the Black Forest in many ways. The forest’s proximity to France and Switzerland has influenced the cooking you find in many Black Forest restaurants. legend-filled forest is a favorite place to spend holidays outdoors. Villages with half-timbered buildings. Having a car opens up more of the countryside. the two towns I recommend as overnights. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. Give yourself at least two hours to explore and enjoy the island. . by train. call % 07531/3030 or visit www. the name given to the forest by Romans some 2. look for Zwetchgentorte (plum pastry). The famous cake is one of the specialties of a region that’s something of a culinary crossroads. Why did they call it that? Because from a distance the dark green pine and fir trees look black. or Black Forest. which serves as a boundary with Switzerland to the south and France to the west. Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart). B500). The name “Black Forest” is a translation of the Latin Silva Nigra. From cake to sausage: Black Forest treats Maybe you’ve heard of that famous thick. which runs almost the entire length of the forest. runs parallel to the Rhine. The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Travelers to the Schwarzwald (schvahrtz-vald). One of the most popular auto trips is from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt on the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse (Black Forest High

Märgen 500 A864 31 Donaueschingen Titisee Hüfingen Löffingen Schauinsland Hinterzarten Feldberg Bernau Lenzkirch Blumberg Bonndorf 314 Belchen Todtnau 317 Schluchsee 500 Häusern Kandern A5 Zell im Wiesental Hornberg A98 Hamburg Berlin A35 WaldshutTiengen E GERMANY Frankfurt am Main C Lörrach Area Area of of detail Detail Munich Rh Pratteln SWITZERLAND FR Basel Döttingen in e AN .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 321 The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Durmersheim 0 10 mi Haguenau M er Brumath Weyersheim 36 A4 Canal de la Marne au Rhin Willgottheim Marlenheim Rheinau 500 Rh ine Pfaffenhoffen N 0 10 km Bouxwiller Mountain Malsch To Pforzheim Kuppenheim Gaggenau BadenBaden 462 294 Strasbourg Molsheim A840 A35 3 od To Calw A5 Bühl Achern Raumündzach Oberkirch 28 Barr Neuried 36 Offenburg FRANCE in 83 Freudenstadt Rhine Rh Gengenbach Ettenheim 3 500 462 du Selestat Rh ône I ll au Alpirsbach Zell am Harmersbach Wolfach Waldmössingen nal 468 Ca Elsenheim Muntzenheim Herbolzheim Kenzingen 294 33 Hornberg 462 Dunningen Zimmern Triberg A5 Waldkirch Kandel Triberger Wasserfälle Furtwangen A81 Freiburg im Breisgau Hirtzfelden Bad Krozingen Staufen Badenweiler 3 St. Peter Schwenningen St.

201 or a taxi.m. The composition of the slightly radioactive mineral water is almost the same today as when the Romans built the first bath complexes here in the third about 5km (3 miles) north of town. The personalities of the day — artists like Berlioz. from Frankfurt. one of the summer sporting events in Europe. The Bahnhof (railway station) is at Baden-Oos. and Sunday 2 to 5 p. If you’re driving into town.m. to 5 p. bahn. and the A8 Autobahn runs east–west. www. and Dostoevsky — also helped to make Baden-Baden the most elegant and sophisticated playground in Germany.000 years. about four hours. For those with a car.322 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Baden-Baden: Germany’s premier spa town Baden-Baden is one of the world’s most famous spa resorts. If you’re not into a health regimen or interested in gambling. For train information. The drive south from Frankfurt takes about two hours.m. The horseracing season at nearby Iffezheim. who come to hike. on Schwarzwaldstrasse 52 (the B500 road into town. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter. Both offices offer a free hotelbooking service.m. Baden-Baden still evokes that aura of 19th-century privilege. Trip time from Munich is about four hours. It has a complete schedule of events and information on town and regional attractions. you take bus no.m. Kaiser Allee 3 (% 07221/ 275-200. you may find Baden-Baden a bit boring-boring. In the 19th century.m. golf. same phone. Finding information The tourist information office in the Trinkhalle. .) Getting to Baden-Baden You can easily reach Baden-Baden by train from anywhere in Germany. play tennis. connecting Baden-Baden to Munich. is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. open Mon–Sat 9 a. European nobility and clients such as Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm I rediscovered Baden-Baden’s waters. The thermal springs bubbling up from beneath the town have been healing aches and pains for more than 2.–6 p.baden-baden. Even the Roman emperor Caracalla traveled to this part of the Black Forest to get some relief from his arthritis. takes place in August. and people still flock here to soak and be healed of various ailments and to try their luck in the famous casino. from Munich. always available in front of the station. about three Baden-Baden attracts many sports and outdoor enthusiasts. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. and Napoleon III gave the town a glamorous new aristocratic cachet. Brahms. Located 174km (108 miles) south of Frankfurt in the northern portion of the Black Forest. The town has the most up-to-date spa facilities in Germany.–1 p. you can easily access a second tourist office outside the center.m). Sun 9 a. the A5 Autobahn between Basel and Frankfurt runs north–south through the entire region. and ride horses. To get into the center of town.

Hir s Schloßs e trass r lmstr Wilhe .D ür e ras sse se t -S .Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 323 1 Baden-Baden Sch ütze Sc ger sb os el hl nn Tu Festspielhaus La ng asse nstr We tz eS Leop oldst r tra asse t els Ka p rs t ra ine uz zin Gö tt ss e Ka pu eng . strasse 12 ichstras se Sephanie- Lichtentaler Allee ss e Oosbach Kais er- W il h elm - e LudwigWilhelmPlatz 14 1515 St ra r Fried lerst rass Schil 16 Gausplatz Bertholdstrasse Bertholdplatz e Frem r rgst rsbe asse Hamburg Berlin nel i Information 0. lstr LeopoldsInse platz ßs ch str 5 Marktplatz 2 Sc h l o Sol W er d er s tr a sse We rd ras erst se 10 Goetheplatz zs t r.2 mi 0. r A . Hindenburgplatz e rs tr.2 km Mi cha elstu n Lic ta en ht 0 0 GER M AN Y Frankfurt rA ll e e BadenBaden ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel am Markt 5 Der Kleine Prinz 15 Hotel Belle Epoque 16 DINING Der Kleine Prinz 15 Münchner Löwenbräu 4 Park-Restaurant 14 Peter’s Gute Backstube 7 Stahlbad 13 ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss 1 Caracalla-Therme 2 Friedrichsbad 3 Kunsthalle 11 Kurgarten 8 Kurhaus 10 Lichtentaler Allee 12 Spielbank 9 Trinkhalle 6 Ha Munich rd äc ke rs Mic haelstunnel e Lang Vin cen tist rass e ns is e Lu lee ral ise Ka e Sch iben sse stra V in c rasse tist en 9 8 R e t tigstras se Kr e u asse Merkurstr sse stra Eich 13 Hardstra s s e Lic 11 sse tra hte nta ler Str ass e Ludwig-Wilh e l m- S t ra sse le . . 6 m sstrass e i 3 e . ass tr. str n i rS e Ste h ac Str 4 rnsb a sse tra Ge e Jesuitensse rass nst platz hie p o S 7 . t r.

See map p. % 07221/3464. AE. AE. Tasting menus: 57€–75€ ($71–$94). Rates: 58€–62€ ($72–$77) double with toilet only. 74€–80€ ($92–$100) double with bathroom. 201. Fax: 07221/ 27-04-44. Hotel am Markt $ Clean. Regional . DC.m. Although there is nothing grand or glamorous about it. and finish with fresh strawberries and homemade ice cream. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. move on to duck-liver parfait with salad. Marktplatz 18. MC. this 27-room hotel epitomizes the kind of small. 323. and the location on Marktplatz is quiet and convenient. Everything is homemade from the best and freshest local ingredients. and 7–10 p. family-run hostelry you can still find all over Germany. V. affordable. and menu offerings change daily. MC. purchase tickets from the driver or from ticket machines at bus stops.50). the rooms are comfortable (not all have private bathrooms). and inexpensive. which runs at ten-minute intervals. followed by a fish soup with dumplings. 323 In the hotel Der Kleine Prinz.324 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting around Baden-Baden After you arrive in Baden-Baden. there’s a little cafe in front. and well-prepared food in two settings: on a romantic terrace beneath linden trees or in an indoor dining room with curved glass walls. and a meal in the intimate dining room served by the highly polished but friendly staff is a memorable experience. Many kinds of German sausage are on the menu with Bavarian specialties and a wide selection of cheeses. Lichtentaler Strasse 36. Dining in Baden-Baden Der Kleine Prinz $$$ FRENCH/REGIONAL The restaurant in the hotel Der Kleine Prinz (“The Little Prince”) is one of the finest in the entire region. Bus: 201. go on to stuffed rabbit with mushrooms and homemade noodles. Bus: 201. Rates include continental breakfast.m. Main courses: 17€–29€ ($21–$36). 76530 Baden-Baden. A one-way fare is 2€ ($2. Try one of the tasting menus. you can walk everywhere. Münchner Löwenbräu $ –$$ GERMAN/BAVARIAN This restaurant serves simple. See map p. You can begin with assorted appetizers. Bus no.hotel-am-markt-baden. www. % 07221/27-04-0. Staying in Baden-Baden See also Chapter 22 for descriptions of the outstanding Der Kleine Prinz ($$$–$$$$) and Hotel Belle Epoque ($$$–$$$$). V. connects the railway station to most of the sites in town.

. with major museums and important historic sights that you must see. (See the “Baden-Baden” map in this chapter.–7 p. Bus: 201. Gernsbacher Strasse 9 (in the Altstadt). V.. Exploring Baden-Baden When it comes to tourist destinations. For dessert.50) is very good. 323.25–$8. % 07221/24569. For dessert. try the lemon-grass mousse. 323..m. try the apple fritters. Main courses: Breakfast 5€–7€ ($6. See map p. Bus: 201. Sun 8 a. % 07221/392-817. a slice of pizza. quickly served food. Open: Daily 10 a.m. Bus: 201. fresh fish. 323. Open: Daily 7–9:30 p. and 6–10 p.m. See map p. along with seafood and regional Rhine Valley foods. the coffee (all you can drink for 2€/$ 2. Augustaplatz 2. DC.75). Reservations required. evoke an earlier era. or a lunchtime sandwich.m.m. copper vessels. warm gooseliver with Calvados sauce. See map p. and grilled lobster and fish.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 325 devotees order pork knuckles fresh from the grill. this restaurant with a garden terrace is a tranquil and charming place to dine. Reservations required. The restaurant also has a popular beer garden.m. Park-Restaurant $$$$ INTERNATIONAL/RHINELAND This fancy. Main courses: 6.m.50€–18€ ($8–$22). and lobster salad. % 07221/9000. % 07221/22311. Specialties include sautéed gooseliver. Bus: 201.75).) The pace is relaxed. No credit cards. Peter’s Gute Backstube $ PIZZA/LIGHT MEALS Restaurants in Baden-Baden tend to be pricey. MC. DC. mugs. and engravings. although the atmosphere is like a fast-food restaurant. Sophienstrasse 10–12. Sat 6:30 a. Stahlbad $$$ –$$$$ CONTINENTAL/ALSATIAN In the center of town. roast saddle of venison or lamb. Duck in here for a breakfast of eggs and ham. to midnight. Schillerstrasse 4. Main courses: 32€–42€ ($40–$52). See map p. including prints.–6 p. antique pewter plates. The atmosphere and décor. 323. V.m. Specialties include pepper steak and seasonal game dishes. Open: Mon–Fri 6:30 a. In Brenner’s Park Hotel. Open: Tues–Sun noon to 2 p. Main courses: 15€–30€ ($19–$37). AE. high-priced restaurant in the glamorous Brenner’s Park Hotel is one of the renowned hotel dining rooms of Europe and received a Michelin star in 2006. V. The emphasis is on French dishes. AE. AE. DC.m. sandwiches: 3€ ($3. Baden-Baden isn’t a demanding town.–7 p. MC. so it’s good to know about this inexpensive cafe on busy Leopoldsplatz.m. Pete’s can’t be beat for cheap. I also recommend stopping for a slice of afternoon Kuchen (cake).

Maximum bets are 10. to 2 a. and gas lights lit and extinguished by hand every day. . Originally. informal. to noon). Germany’s oldest casino. Minimum bets are 5€ ($6. poker. To enter the casino. “The most beautiful casino in the whole world is in Baden-Baden — and I have seen them all. The train runs daily from 9:30 a.10) for children 5 to 15. Guests can play French and American roulette. baccarat. a very recent addition. The tour costs 4€ ($5). the building was a “Promenade House. as you may think. one of the town’s most important buildings. which also contain roulette. Marlene Dietrich.326 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany and the streets are geared toward pleasurable strolls and upscale shopping.” You can see for yourself by visiting the famous BadenBaden Spielbank (casino). www.m. The City-Bahn (% 07221/991-998.25) for adults and 2. the right wing of the building is Baden-Baden’s casino (see the next paragraph).500). you can take a guided tour of the historic gaming rooms daily. Fri–Sat). between 9:30 a. You find slot machines. Men must wear jackets and ties. classy evening wear. Lichtentaler Allee.75).m.. you must possess a valid passport and be at least 21 years old.m. Kaiserallee 1 (% 07221/21060). If you don’t want to gamble. the glamorous German film star. to about 5 p. I recommend that you visit one of the bath complexes (see “Bathing in Baden-Baden” later in this chapter) and then spend a couple of hours wandering through the Altstadt. concert shell. pronounced ohs).m. an elegant park promenade lined with rhododendrons. contain spa facilities. in the vaulted cellars of the Kurhaus in attractive new rooms. In the 1820s. every 30 minutes. (until 3 a. English commentary is available on a headset. the Kurhaus was turned into a “Conversation House. once remarked. and other games. slotmachine-haven you find in Las Vegas. The site has remained the hub of Baden-Baden’s social scene ever since. poker. and other spots. women. blackjack. in operation for more than 200 years. and bingo machines. The time-honored center of activity is Lichtentaler Allee. making stops at the Kurhaus.” where the rich and prominent came to see and be seen.” a place for more formal gatherings and events. blackjack. and ornamental trees set along the bank of the narrow Oosbach River (called the Oos.m. The Kurhaus does not. The casino is open for gambling daily from 2 p.m.000€ ($12.25). At the north end of the promenade are the formally landscaped grounds of the Kurgarten and the neoclassical is a sightseeing train that makes stops at all of Baden-Baden’s major attractions.50€ ($3. Admission is 3€ ($3. The various casino rooms were designed in the style of an elegant French château. the Caracalla Baths. Arrange in advance for tours in English.m. and noon (Oct–Mar 10 a. Tickets cost 5€ ($6. (The Russian writer Dostoevsky wrote The Gambler based on his disastrous experience at the tables here. lavish restaurant with a terrace overlooking the gardens with their shop-lined colonnades. and the left wing houses a large. azaleas. roses.) This casino is definitely not the kind of glitzy. used for receptions and galas.

dates back to 1877 and follows an ancient Roman-Irish bath method. The baths are open daily from 8 a. a large hall built in the 1840s. At the CaracallaTherme (Caracalla Baths). You must wear bathing suits in the pools. Museum Frieder Burda. and women and men share the pools. sits adjacent to the Kunsthalle and houses an impressive collection of modern paintings and sculptures (German expressionists. thermal steam baths. surrounded by an open walkway and decorated with frescoes depicting Black Forest legends. Admission is free. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-940). Kaiserallee 3 (% 07221/275-200). you’d better understand what Mark Twain meant when he said. Römerplatz 1 (% 07221/275-920). Bathers usually begin in cooler pools. Note: Clothes may not be worn in the Friedrichsbad. a brush massage. Hochbaden was the seat of the margraves of Baden. The building. Friedrichsbad. Bathing in Baden-Baden Getting into hot water is what Baden-Baden is all about. completed in 1909.m. a new building designed by Richard Meier and opened in 2005. You get a nice view of the town and the Black Forest from this fortresslike structure. where guests once sipped the salty. The Altes Schloss (Old Palace). and whirlpools. working up to the warm water. (last admission is two hours before closing).25) for adults and 4€ ($5) for students. which takes about three hours. bubbles up from artesian wells at a temperature of about 160°F (70°C). a ruined castle originally called Hochbaden (High Baden). The complete bath program. showcases visiting contemporary art exhibits. The slightly radioactive water. From the 11th to the 15th centuries. The facility has a bar and a cafeteria. The Staatliche Kunsthalle (State Art Gallery). American abstract expressionists.m. Admission is 12€ ($15) for two hours. followed by a 30-minute period of rest and relaxation.m. rich in sodium chloride. to 10 p. late works by Picasso) bequeathed by Baden-Baden collector Frieder Burda. to 10 p.m. Medicinal treatment includes mud baths. involves a shower. but the scene is au naturel in the saunas.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 327 In the Kurhaus gardens. slightly radioactive waters of Baden-Baden. The baths are open daily from 9 a. The two buildings are open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a. you also find the Trinkhalle (Pump Room).m. 29€ ($36) with soap-brush massage (31⁄2 hours).” Admission is 21€ ($26) for three hours without massage. Lichtentaler Allee 8a (% 07221/300-763).m.). two saunas. “Here at Baden-Baden’s Friedrichsbad you lose track of time in 10 minutes and track of the world in 20. and three freshwater baths ranging from warm to 60°F (15°C). (Wed until 8 p.m. After experiencing the Friedrichsbad. The baths also have a sauna area. massages. now is used as the main tourist office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Baden-Baden). is located on a hillside above town. Admission is 5€ ($6. . to 6 p. you decide on your own bath regimen.

plus many varieties of bottled honey.and honey-based products such as candles.. and cottons during warmer months. where the inventory includes luggage. cooling things down. schnapps. Freiburg bursts with . and handbags. Leather goods by Gold Pfiel and other manufacturers are sold at Inka. Langestrasse 38 (% 07221/31453). carries beeswax.000 students). In the summer. Cuckoo clocks. puppets. The hall presents classical music concerts. the days can get very hot. Münchner Moden. wallets. This is where you buy those elegant duds required to enter the casino. The town is called Freiburg im (in) Breisgau to distinguish it from other German and Swiss Freiburgs. Freiburg is the largest city in the Schwarzwald and considered to be its capital.m. focusing on designers Giorgio Armani and Renee Lazard. and offers Austrian and Bavarian silks. Beim Alten Bahnhof 2 (% 07221/301-3101. carries women’s designs in loden-colored wool during autumn and winter. fast-flowing streams called Bächle (little brooks) that run alongside the streets in stone-lined channels are ancient cooling systems. operas. linens. but a cool mountain breeze called the Höllentaler flows down into the town like clockwork twice every night between 7 and 7:30 and 9 and 9:30 p.328 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Baden-Baden Sophienstrasse and Gernsbacher Strasse. and ballets throughout the year. Although surrounded by alpine scenery. Herrenkommode. is created by one of Germany’s most emulated designers. The Altstadt’s splashing fountains and residents (and an additional 30. is a historical region stretching from the Rhine to the Black Forest. this picturesque city with its medieval Altstadt nestles in a plain below high mountain peaks. Another shop. Only 111km (69 miles) southwest of Baden-Baden. Breisgau. opened in 1998. is a bit more international. Lichtentalerstrasse 13 (% 07221/31090). candies. now part of the German state of Baden-Württemberg but once part of the Roman Empire.festspielhaus. www. The women’s wear available at Escada Boutique. Schwarzwald Bienen-Honig-Haus. and wine. Sophienstrasse 16 (% 07221/29292). Lichtentaler Strasse 21 (% 07221/24495). Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books With a population of about 200.500-seat Festspielhaus (Festival Hall). lined with some of the most expensive boutiques in Germany. are part of a flower-flanked pedestrian zone. Freiburg enjoys the benefits of warm air currents that come up from the Mediterranean through Burgundy. The best men’s store. The building is the second-largest opera and concert hall in Europe. Sophienstrasse 26 (% 07221/23955). Discovering the performing arts in Baden-Baden Baden-Baden’s 2. and other locally produced items can be found at Boulevard. Sophienstrasse 18 (% 07221/390-448). cosmetics.

and in autumn. Werderring Ma r i e n . on the last weekend in June.600 acres of vineyards. In Freiburg. Herrens trasse Bert . Hab stras sburgerse alle Fried richs Rheinstr e asse 0 0 0. sse tra ns e t r Ga Schreibe rstrasse Dr eis am Wallstrasse neggrin eiffe g Gr torring Schwaben Fa ule rst t st r a ss ALLEEe GARTEN r Strasse Ad e l hauserstr .1 mi trass ma rk e Colombistr asse - Meria nstr a ss e Eise nba hnst Ga tte ckr ing se ph e Ro olds trass Ka ise r- Un s r s s s it ä t e Sedan - UNIVERSITÄT ivetra A L T S T A D T Gr ü Belfortstra sse Wi Ra m Martinstor pa v iktstr.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 329 Freiburg Kath strasarinense Heb stras else Meria nstr. more than you find near any other city in Germany. Joseph- rasse ras se Less ings tras se Kr on en str se as Erbprinzenstr. at g a h a u ssse Rathausplatz Jo - Str as se rass e u c h- i R r mstr1 Sch iffs tr. a four-day public wine-tasting festival takes place in the Münsterplatz. the square outside Freiburg’s magnificent Gothic cathedral. And winegrowing always requires celebrations. Sc hu 2 3 Münsterplatz 4 6 Moltke ste 5 rs t r. Mo zart st COLOMBIPARK Au i r. 8 Augustiner- S ch los sb erg rin g strasse Platz der Alten Ber Synagoge toldstrasse str. 7 11 platz 9 9 K SCHLOSSBERG Schwabentor In se 10 Augustinerweg Kartäuserstrasse Kaiser- Luisenst t r a ss Dreisams e Leo-Woh Strasse lebInformation Post office Railway Schillerstrasse ACCOMMODATIONS Rappen 3 Zum Roten Bären 9 DINING Oberkirchs Weinstuben 2 Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede 10 Zum Roten Bären 9 ATTRACTIONS Augustinermuseum 8 Erzbischöflisches Palais 5 Historisches Kaufhaus 6 Münster 4 Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Wentzingerhaus) 7 Neues Rathaus 1 Schlossberg 11 Hamburg Berlin GE R M AN Y Frankfurt Munich Freiburg springtime blooms while snow still covers the surrounding peaks.s tr . fd er Zin ne n Scho ferstr .1 km 0. str. Wine? Yes. surrounding the city are 1. the smell of new wine fills the narrow streets even as snow is already falling on those nearby summits. Hauptbahnhof stras Jak Bu obStrarckha sse rdt- Bis Ka strarlsse Rosa Friedrich ring se Leo pold STADTGARTEN ring Tu lhe lms tra sse l . Holzm ark t on Gerberau Mün gass zSalz nwal e s t ra de r s t r ss e .

Saturday 10 a. The May Frühlingsmess (Spring Fair) and October Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair) both last ten days. Salzstrasse 3 (% 0761/451-1500) in the Altstadt. Finding information The tourist information office. Freiburg makes for an atmospheric overnight stay. Staying in Freiburg Rappen $ –$$ Altstadt The best rooms in this charming. The train trip from Frankfurt takes about two hours.75). where you find all the major attractions. Sunday 10 a.) Getting to Freiburg Frequent trains connect Freiburg to Baden-Baden and other cities throughout Germany and Europe. with performances in giant outdoor tents. a day ticket costs 4. youthful edge to the old city.. Although the town was heavily damaged during World War II. from Hamburg. Rooms are generally on the small side and simply but comfortably furnished. freiburg. 20-room inn have smack-dab views of Freiburg’s mighty cathedral. For those coming by car. with bonfires and parades.m.50). The . Wandering through its ancient streets is a pleasure at any time of year. to 2 p. For train information.m. The office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Their pre-Lenten carnival called Fasnet is one of the best in Germany. and exploring the sights in the surrounding Schwarzwald is easy and fun. Monday to Friday 10 a. October through May. and Saturday from 8 a.. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. has schedules and information. about eight hours. to noon.m.60€ ($5.m. take B31 Rotteckring 14 (% 0761/388-1880. Getting around Freiburg The Altstadt. Saturday 10 a.m. If you’re driving from the Bodensee (Lake Constance).. RVF (% 0761/207-280) operates the city’s bus and tram system. to 2:30 p. Sunday 10 a. located right outside.m.330 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Festivals are a year-round part of life in Freiburg.. And in June. including a bombing in error by the German Luftwaffe. to noon. providing access to Freiburg.m. is easily walkable.bahn. and sells passes. to 6 p. Plus-Punkt. is open June through September. the city plays host to the two-week-long Zeltmusik Festival (Tent Music Festival).m.m. the A5 Autobahn runs north–south through the Black Forest. A oneway fare costs 2€ ($ Monday through Friday 10 a. If you’re traveling in the Black Forest. to 5:30 p.m.m. www. Weinkost is a long wine-tasting event in midAugust. The large student presence adds a lively. to 7 p. low-key. to 8 p. Freiburg’s medieval charm has been preserved. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter.

which means “At the Red Bear. 329. AE. those in the modern wing have little balconies overlooking leafy gardens and red-tiled rooftops. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2 p.hotelrappen. Closed Jan. www. “Dining in Freiburg”). MC. Münsterplatz 22. Rates: 145€ ($181) double. See map p. with a pretty painted facade and a list of innkeepers that goes back to the 14th century. this Weinstube is the most picturesque and romantic spot in Fixed-price menus: 18€–21€ ($22–$26). or 5. 4. AE. including continental breakfast. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt Zum Roten Bären. Fax: 0761/382-252.hoteloberkirchs. The tavern sits on a small square flanked by a . This place serves hearty portions of good. www. pea. Oberlinden 12. Doubles range from 126€ to 147€ ($157–$184). Rates include breakfast. You find plenty of activity right outside the hotel on Münsterplatz. MC. Tram: 1. 329. oldfashioned food: tasty soups (bean. MC.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 331 units with private bathrooms have showers. Main courses: 14€–25€ ($17–$31). poultry. See map p. This wonderfully atmospheric and unpretentious inn has only 25 rooms and one of the best restaurants in Freiburg for traditional Black Forest fare and regional wines from the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards (see the next section. www. % 0761/202-6868. pork filets in morel cream sauce). Standing just outside the hotel is one of Freiburg’s medieval gateways.” is the oldest inn in Germany. % 0761/31353. V. and 6:30–9:15 p. V. meat dishes (veal schnitzel. and seasonal dishes like pheasant. 329. You can dine in the Weinstube (wine tavern) with its ceiling-high ceramic stove or at a table on the square. All trams stop just behind the hotel. 79098 Freiburg. or vegetable).de. % 0761/387-870. Above the Weinstube. or Cathedral Dining in Freiburg Oberkirchs Weinstuben $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This historic wine tavern on Freiburg’s busy Münsterplatz. Rooms in the older section have more charm. 25 rooms all have private bathrooms or showers. AE. 79098 Freiburg. site of a big weekday outdoor market. Weinstube & Hotel Sichelschmiede $ –$$ Altstadt REGIONAL/INTERNATIONAL For outdoor summer dining. provides good regional cooking and comfortable rooms. V. DC. DC. Rates: 99€–110€ ($124–$137) double. Rates include buffet breakfast.roterbaeren. Reservations recommended.m. 79098 Freiburg. See map p. Münsterplatz 13. and the surrounding neighborhood is wonderfully picturesque.

and Sunday 1 to 6 p. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 3 p.m. cooked ham. The cathedral contains some superb stained-glass windows. Tram: 1. are in the south chancel. . Zwiebelschmelze is a spinach-and-vegetable-filled ravioli covered with sautéed onions. MC. The chef’s daily recommendation may be cream of tomato soup. fruity accompaniment.m. See map p. A young Rivaner wine. V. % 0761/ 202-790. % 0761/387-870. a salad with smoked lox. Exploring Freiburg Most of what you want to see is in the Altstadt. MapInsel 1. % 0761/35037. Its West Tower. the Dreisam river on the south. to midnight. See map p. AE. Zum Roten Bären $$ –$$$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL The “Red Bear” has one of the best kitchens in Freiburg and one of the most authentically atmospheric dining rooms. available in May and June. Tram: 1. the earliest. Oberlinden 12 (just inside the Schwabentor). and Hollandaise sauce. an area bounded by the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) on the west side of the inner city. Gargoyles peer down from the tower’s roof.m. dating from the 13th century. This place is a good one for trying Zwiebel (onion) dishes.) All visitors eventually congregate in the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square). a specialty of the region. grown on the nearby Kaiserstühl vineyards. DC. is one of the most beautiful in Germany. to 6 p. site of Freiburg’s rose-colored Münster (Cathedral. but by the time the structure was completed in 1620.m. one of them with its backside turned toward the archbishop’s house across the square. and 6:30–11:30 p. Tram: 4. (See the “Freiburg” map in this chapter. Give yourself at least two hours to stroll and poke around. Admission to the cathedral is free. The building is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a. a magnificent openwork spire atop an open octagonal belfry. MC. or 6). The menu presents a full array of wonderfully prepared dishes using local ingredients. and a wooded hill called the Schlossberg on the east. or tagliatelle with shrimps. 329. supposedly a sign of the architect’s contempt for the city fathers. 329. is a light. Fixed-price menus: 35€ ($44). where you can sample seasonal dishes. Main courses: 11€–22€ ($14–$27). 43€ ($54). 5.m.m. V. Main courses: 8€–15€ ($10–$19). The Spargelpfannkuchen is asparagus served with a special pancake. such as Spargel (white asparagus). The cathedral was begun in 1200 in the Romanesque style. The good food arrives in extremely large portions. one of Germany’s masterpieces of Gothic architecture. This part of town is medieval Freiburg at its most appealing. A simpler Vesperkarte (late-evening menu) is available from 10 p.332 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rushing Bächle (little brook) and horse-chestnut trees. Gothic elements had been incorporated into the design. In the hotel Zum Roten Bären. Open: Daily noon to midnight.

m. comprised of two highly decorated 16th-century merchants’ houses connected by an arcade. Sunday from 1 to 5 p. Martin’s Gate). built in 1761 for a local painter and sculptor and now home to the Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Town History Museum. Paintings on the tower include one of St. with narrow cobblestone streets and restored houses once used by fishermen and tanneries. % 0761/201-2515). Augustinerplatz (% 0761/201-2531). another busy square just west of the cathedral. admission is 2€ ($2.m. On the west side of the square is Freiburg’s Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). For a wonderful view of Freiburg and the distant mountains. Chestnut trees and a fountain add to the charm of Rathausplatz. to 5 p.. The mid-18th-century Erzbischöflisches Palais (Archbishop’s Palace) has a pale-yellow facade and an ornate wrought-iron balcony. you can climb to the top of the Münster’s famous West Tower. across from the cathedral. when Freiburg was a walled city. You can see the Bächle running alongside many Altstadt streets. dates from around 1200 and stands on the southeast edge of the Altstadt. the city’s patron saint.m. surround it. called Bächle. A 14th-century Augustinian monastery with a yellow baroque front houses the Augustinermuseum (Augustinian Friars Museum). The brooks channel water from the Dreisam River through the old university town. A trio of historic buildings stands along the south side of Münsterplatz. They were first devised to keep the city clean and to help fight fires. From April through October.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 333 The Bächle of Freiburg To help the town stay cool in the hot summer sun. November through March. you will marry a person from Freiburg. near the Schlossberg. a Gothic customs and financial administration center with protruding.. The third building to the left of the Historisches Kaufhaus is the baroque Wentzingerhaus. Freiburg has many lovely old fountains and a unique system of streams called Bächle (little brooks) that date back to the 12th century. is still used as the town’s official reception hall.. The neighborhood around the Schwabentor is called the Insel (Island) because rushing streams. The Schwabentor (Swabian Gate).m. the chief attraction in the Insel . pointed-roof watchtowers and a 16thcentury gallery decorated with the statues of four Habsburg emperors.m.50). George. The oxblood-colored Historisches Kaufhaus (Historical Department Store). open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. East of the university you find the Martinstor (St. the tower is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 a. the other city gate. if you step in a Bächle. According to local folklore. one of two surviving gates from the Middle Ages. The Insel is the most picturesque quarter in Freiburg. to 5 p. closed Monday.

) From Todtnau. From Titisee. the Feldbergbahn (% 07655/8019).m. a famous mile-high peak. tile roofs in small villages. to 7 p. The cable car operates daily from 9 a. Give yourself about 90 minutes for the gondola ride and a stroll on the summit. the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. .m.750-ft. to 5 p. The roundtrip fare is 3€ ($3.000 years.m.334 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Quarter. and the vast Rhine plain to the west. From the parking lot. head south on Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse to Günterstal and follow the narrow. Continue south to the hamlet of Todtnau. a hill that provides good views of the cathedral.75). you can make an easy 145km (90-mile) circuit through a scenic part of the Black Forest and be back in time for dinner.6km-long (1-mile) footpath to an impressive series of waterfalls. to 5 p. Driving through the Upper Black Forest From Freiburg.. where another enclosed gondola. another popular Black Forest lake. the cable car operates daily from 9:30 a. you can see the highest peaks of the Alps to the south. pick up B317 west to Utzenfeld and follow the narrow road northwest to the Belchen. (See “The Schwarzwald [Black Forest]” map in this chapter. head back north along B500 to Titisee. You can also ascend the Schlossberg by cable car (% 0761/39855) from the Stadtgarten (City Gardens). From Schluchsee.m. where you find a 1.m. to 4:30 p.m. to 6 p.50) for adults. and on a clear day. 4. takes you to the peak for one of the most spectacular views in the Schwarzwald. From the Belchen. The roundtrip costs 6€ ($7. A new. a pathway climbs up the Schlossberg.m..50€ ($5. takes visitors to the 1. a nearby peak. Admission is 2€ ($2. enclosed gondola. twisting road to Schauinsland. From the grassy summit you can see the Feldberg and other nearby mountains. you can climb 91 steps to an observation tower for a panoramic view toward the Feldberg. October through January from 11:30 a.) From Freiburg. green hillside pastures. The area also has easy hiking trails. you pass some of the forest’s highest peaks and two of its most beautiful lakes.) summit of a peak called Seebuck. you can return to Freiburg by heading west along B31. 4€ ($5) for children. the round-trip ride costs 6.m. From the Schwabentor.50). Belchenstrasse 13 (% 07673/888-280). Continue on B317 east and turn south on B500 to Schluchsee. one of the loveliest of the Black Forest lakes. Along the way. (You need about an hour to get to the falls and back.50) for children. The round-trip takes about an hour.450m (4. the Belchen Seilbahn.m. backtrack to Utzenfeld and follow B317 east to Feldberg. Inside you find a collection of religious art spanning more than 1.40€ ($8) for adults. The cable car operates June through September from 10 a.m.

Turkey.50€ ($3) for students. his great-great-grandson is the current owner. and November through March from 10 a.) You may also want to visit the Haus der 1000 Uhren (House of 1. Clock watchers with time on their hands may want to drive the Deutsche Uhrenstrasse (German Clock Road. In June. In addition to the world’s largest collection of Black Forest clocks. to 5 p.m. Triberg. and other traditional crafts. a painter of clock faces. is available from the tourist information office (see “Finding information” earlier in this section about Freiburg). to 5 p. One of the most interesting museums on the route is the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (German Clock Museum). Furtwangen (% 07723/920-117). which emphasizes jazz but includes other musical ranging from classical music to theater to pop concerts. in Münsterplatz. located on B33 between Triberg and Hornberg. .m. launched the business in 1824. Russia.m.Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest 335 Time out: Buying a Black Forest cuckoo clock Since 1667. the museum has timepieces from all around the world and from all epochs. As early as 1840. Freiburg’s cathedral (described earlier). Triberg-Gemmelsbach (% 07722/96300). In addition to cuckoo clocks. The shop is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. 48km (30 miles) northeast of Freiburg on B33. The museum is open daily April through October from 9 a. An der Bundesstrasse 33. Black Forest clocks were being shipped to China. clocks have been produced in the Black Forest.m. England. Along the way. You can’t miss the shop: A giant cuckoo clock and water wheel are in front. when the first wooden clock was made in Waldau. Information about all venues and events.deutsche-uhrenstrasse. and Visa. MasterCard..m.m. Discovering nightlife in Freiburg The Konzerthaus (Concert House) plays host to a variety of events. is a good place to go.000 Clocks). Admission is 4€ ($5) for adults. music boxes. Josef Weisser. to 6 p. huge tents house the annual Zeltmusik festival (Tent Music Festival). If you’re looking for a traditional timepiece to take home from the Black Forest. Diners Club. and a program of organ recitals in the Münster. The shop ships to the United States and Canada and takes American Express. shops also sell woodcarvings. Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1. Summer also brings a series of chamber-music concerts to the Historisches Kaufhaus. www. and America. (Note: Triberg can be jammed with cuckoo-clock shoppers in the summer. you find all kinds of museums and sights related to clocks. Triberg is one of the stops on this 320km (200-mile) scenic route through the Black Forest from VillingenSchwenningen to Bad Duerrheim. 2. including program schedules and ticket sales.

serves drinks and plays background punk. Crash. Hausbrauerei Feierling. and funk. Schnewlinstrasse 3 (% 0761/ 32475.336 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany With some 25. 4.–3:30 a. or 5).m. house.m. in the basement. a brewpub with a popular beer garden across the street. Gerberau 46 (% 0761/26678.000 university students. Tram: 1.m. is open daily from 11 a. Two clubs in one.. Drifler’s Club (no phone.m. Neither club charges a cover. open Wed–Sat 10 p. open Thurs–Sat midnight to 4 a.) plays house and techno for dancers. . to midnight. the city also has a thriving bar and club scene. Tram: 1 or 2).

I Heidelberg: Romance on the River Heidelberg. 88km (55 miles) south of Frankfurt. The looming ruins of the ancient castle. on the Neckar River. summer is also a time when droves of visitors from around the globe invade this beautiful city. located on the Neckar River in the state of BadenWürttemberg. This architecture is certainly a major part of Heidelberg’s appeal. Both are castle-crowned cities worth visiting for a day or two. (See the “Heidelberg” map in this chapter. Stuttgart. baroque. summertime in Heidelberg is a time for music and romance. Heidelberg. is a historic and very attractive city in the state of Bavaria. and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers In This Chapter ᮣ Visiting romantic Heidelberg ᮣ Discovering the cultural delights of Stuttgart ᮣ Exploring historic Nuremberg devote this chapter to three special cities in central Germany. Heidelberg is one of the few German cities that was not leveled by air raids in World War II (WWII). can easily be visited as a side trip from Heidelberg. Army base.) According to a song from the operetta The Student Prince. Today. the cultural center of this region. the leafy hills and woodlands beside . Stuttgart. Many Americans know Heidelberg because of the nearby U.S. which is set in Heidelberg. so you still can see original buildings from the Middle Ages. is renowned for its castle and its university. Nuremberg. or Nürnberg as it’s known in German. But some of its legendary romantic allure stems from what was basically a 19thcentury public-relations campaign. the old lanes and squares. Renaissance. and neoclassical eras. is one of Germany’s most romantic cities.Chapter 18 Heidelberg.

to 6 p. They praised the town in their writings and immortalized it in their music and paintings.cvb-heidelberg. The train trip to Heidelberg’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is only one hour from Frankfurt and about three hours from Nuremberg. and 2:30 p. (closed Sun Nov–Mar). Fri–Sat in English) from April through October.50) for children. The Heidelberg Card. Purchase your ticket from the tourist information office at the train station. Boats depart from the landing stage near the Stadthalle. and unlimited use of public transportation. . daily (Mon–Thurs in German.m. Finding information The tourist information office. call Deutsche Bahn % 11861 or visit www.bahn. Getting there Heidelberg is easily accessible by train from all major cities in Germany and Europe. The round-trip tour lasts about three hours and costs 10€ ($13) for adults.m.m. 5€ ($6. and only on Saturday from November through March.m. 10€ ($13) for students and children.338 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany the Neckar.m. and Sunday from 10 a. depart from Universitätsplatz on Thursday and Friday at 2:30 p..m. to 7 for students and children.m.rnf-schifffahrt. Saturday at 10:30 a. Taking a guided tour A two-hour guided walking tour of the city departs from the Lion’s Fountain on Universitätsplatz at 10:30 a. walking and boat tours.75) for adults. November through March the tour takes place only on Saturday at 2:30 p.m.m. and Sunday and holidays at 10:30 a. The cost is 7€ ($8. guided bus tours of the city (in German and English). 6€ ($7.. The cost is 14€ ($17) for adults. The office has maps and brochures. good for two days and available for 14€ ($17) from the tourist information office and at many hotels. The town came to symbolize old-world German Romanticism at its most picturesque. Willy-Brandt-Plaza 1 (% 06221/19433. painters. The great writer Goethe and many other poets.m. and the youthful student population all had great appeal to the German Romantics. provides admission to Heidelberg Castle and discounts on attractions. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. outside the main train station. between the TheodorHeuss-Brücke (bridge) and the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). including the castle. From Easter through October. Purchase tickets at the tourist information office at the train station. offers daily guided boat tours (commentary in German and English) on the Neckar River between Heidelberg and Neckarsteinach.. From April through October. www. Rhein-Neckar-Fahrgastschiffahrt (% 06221/20181. For train schedules and information. and musicians “discovered” Heidelberg in the early 19th century.

Heumarkt Ob Fischmarkt 8 10 Marktplatz 11 11 Kornmarkt Bur gw sse 3 4 2 2 Haupts tr. 9 13 sg. erianstr ing ers tr. loss Sch ue Ne Schlossberg Schloss nweg unne Wolfsbr str. frieds Land sse er Unt au er F Marz rP elz Sc hl udwig Karl-L tr. eg . Untere St asse Jubiläumsplatz r ecka re N Unte Bauamtsgasse nstr. AL TS TAD T 6 M rg. gei 14 eilig upt Ha str. 15 15 H ststr. ndst DINING Die Kurfürstenstube 1 Hotel Zum Ritter St. emie -str. 7 Werrgas Bism ar Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main äuser Ziegelh str. rg Marstallstr. Semmel Steingasse Dreikön herg. se lgas ge r. str. 0 0 0. Schlossber g ch Neue S l os s - st r . g d lba Mitte ngass . Ob r ere Fa ule Ne ue tr. Land Schlangenweg cksä EICHENDORFFANLAGE gg we en ph oso l i Ph 7 7 Hölderlin. kteufel Am Hac rst Necka r.1 mile N 100 meters . Haspelg.ACCOMMODATIONS weg Philosophenrtchen gärtchen e Neu nhe antelg Grosse M S c h if f g a 1 r. Biene Karpfe Zie Krame ts Haup tr. S To Bismarckplatz enga Plöck Heidelberg 339 1 1 To Train Station rich-Ebert-Anlage Fried eg nw ule Heidelberg Munich Das Hotel am Rathaus 9 Der Europäische HofHotel Europa 1 Hotel Hirschgasse 7 Hotel Zum Ritter St. igstr. Ingrimst e Universitätsplatz San 5 Zw el nn tu rg e sb os hl Sc Castle 16 tr. s-s os Grab dga ler Pelz SCHLOSSGARTEN 15 sse rstr. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei 15 Alte Brücke ime r La r. Stuttgart. Theate Kettengasse Friedri chstr. gasse Plöck Kling ento rstr. adg erb . 12 arls Karlsplatz K ATTRACTIONS Heiliggeistkirche 8 Kurpfälzisches Museum 2 Marktplatz 10 Rathaus 12 Heidelberg Castle 16 Studentenkarzer 4 Universitätsplatz 5 e nbe ies Fr tr. and Nuremberg Akad Semin arstr. Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Georg 11 Kulturbrauerei Restaurant 15 Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant 2 Mensurstube 7 Simplicissimus 6 Zum Goldenen Schaf 3 Zum Roten Ochsen 13 Zum Sepp’l 14 kar Nec Leyer gasse Mönc a Neck Fisc rstad en Lauerstr.

beneath Heidelberg’s Schloss (castle). Das Hotel am Rathaus $ –$$ Altstadt This hotel is one of Heidelberg’s nicest and most affordable. between 9 a. The city. The Altstadt (Old Town). Getting around Heidelberg After you arrive in the Altstadt you can walk everywhere. dominated by the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit). so I recommend that you take a streetcar or bus to Bismarckplatz or Universitätsplatz to begin your explorations. 2€ ($2.50). . in the Altstadt. Modern Heidelberg centers on Bismarckplatz (streetcar lines 1 and 2 run there from the train station). like many in Germany and throughout Europe. A single fare on the bus or tram costs 2€ ($2. Many bus and streetcar lines intersect at Bismarckplatz in the town center. Heidelberg is crisscrossed with a network of streetcars and buses operated by the local transportation department. % 06221/22796) runs from Kornmarkt. to the east. busy pedestrian street with narrow medieval lanes on both sides. and the modern one is what you encounter first. or Market Square. The Schloss crowns a hill to the south. and the Kornmarkt. Buses 41 and 42 travel between the railway station and Universitätsplatz on the west side of the Altstadt. and a botanical garden. The one potential drawback: The hotel doesn’t have an elevator. the round-trip fare is 3€ ($3. a popular walking trail. a zoo. The main squares in the Altstadt are Universitätsplatz. is where you want to focus your sightseeing activities.m. a wide.50) for children and students. a 24-hour pass.340 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Orienting yourself Your first glimpse of “romantic old Heidelberg” as you emerge from the Hauptbahnhof on the west side of town may be disappointing. The 17 rooms are small but very pleasant. and 7:40 p. costs 8€ ($10). above the Altstadt. the Altstadt is about a half-hour’s walk from the train station. up to the castle. The Altstadt is a long wedge of slate-roofed buildings along the Neckar River. a focal point for famed Heidelberg University. an area of tall buildings and shopping plazas. the Marktplatz. Staying in Heidelberg See also the listing for the outstanding Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa ($$$$) in Chapter 22.75) for adults. HSB (% 06221/5132000). with simple modern furnishings and tiled bathrooms with showers.m. Hauptstrasse. Fischmarkt. It’s located right in the heart of the city on the Marktplatz. runs from Bismarckplatz into the compact Altstadt. Some larger rooms are suitable for families. has a modern and a historical face. daily. However. Across the Neckar River is the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way). A Bergbahn (funicular. valid for up to five persons traveling within a group.

% 06221/14730. Kulturbrauerei $$ Altstadt This small (21 rooms).de. AE. AE. Georg $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt Located right on the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse. V. www. Many of the 40 rooms are modest in size. The hotel doesn’t have public lounges. but the beds are comfortable. www. and Nuremberg 341 See map p. www. the hotel is among Heidelberg’s sightseeing attractions thanks to its highly decorated.hirschgasse. The hotel dates from 1472 and has lodged such impressive figures as Mark Twain and Bismarck. Built in 1592 as the home of a cloth merchant. Rates: 144€–206€ ($180–$257) double. MC. Bus: 34 from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop. Rates include breakfast buffet. MC. 339. 339. The dining room specializes in duck breast and venison. Although they have Romantic Altstadt the Zum Ritter St. 69117 Heidelberg. AE. Most of the rooms contain tiled bathrooms with shower-tub combinations.ritter-heidelberg. 69117 Heidelberg. Fax: 06221/ 135-230. the main street in the Altstadt. Fax: 06221/454-111. DC. minimalist style. Rates include buffet breakfast. V. DC. Hirschgasse 3. Rates: 160€–345€ ($200–$431) double. The Altstadt is a ten-minute walk from the hotel. Georg is a well-preserved rarity from the German Renaissance. later in this chapter). Bathrooms are adequately roomy with tub-shower combinations (four . 339. 69100 Heidelberg. Rates: 99€–154€ ($124–$193) double. this historic hotel enjoys a tranquil and romantic See map p. MC. the front rooms also can be noisy because of neighboring cafes and restaurants. Hauptstrasse 178. Hotel Zum Ritter St. See map p. gabled facade. Hotel Hirschgasse $$$ –$$$$ North Side of the River Nestled on the hillside of a historic lane adjoining the famous Philosophenweg on the north side of the Neckar. is connected to a microbrewery. Heiliggeiststrasse 1. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 4-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Heiliggeiststrasse on the east side of Marktplatz). % 06221/4540. The hotel has a cool. Fax: 06221/ 147-337. Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). and all come equipped with shower-tub-whirlpool combinations in the bathrooms. Stuttgart. The Mensurstube restaurant is one of the most historically atmospheric spots in town (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. The medium-sized rooms have light-colored hardwood floors and are furnished with comfortable beds and large wooden cupboards. V. DC. The 20 rooms are all sumptuously comfortable suites decorated with Laura Ashley fabrics. hip hotel. % 06221/1350. just a couple of minutes’ walk from the river.

carpaccio of scallops and Scottish wild salmon with mushrooms in raspberry vinaigrette. and filet of turbot with celery on saffron foam with coriander tortellini. and 6–10 p. AE. DC. veal with stuffed pumpkins. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. Look for culinary delights such as cream of watercress soup with poached quail egg and summer truffles in tempura. MC. V. but the cuisine is mainly French. Main courses: 25€–37€ ($31–$46).m. MC. Hauptstrasse 178. Fax: 06221/900-099. Hotel Zum Ritter St. DC. 69117 Heidelberg. MC. 339. when tables are set up in the microbrewery’s beer garden. with fixed-price and à la carte meals.m. In Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. Fixed-price menus: 60€–80€ ($75–$100). . Main courses: 10€–15€ ($13–$19). % 06221/5150. Other menu offerings include staples such as pork loin with sauerkraut or roast salmon in a basil-cream sauce. Georg $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL At this restaurant. Reservations required. Leyergasse 6. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 3-minute walk south to Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage). Bus: 11 to Rathaus/Kornmarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Oberbadgasse to Marktplatz). the hotel doesn’t have airconditioning. and the wine list is the most impressive in town.342 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany rooms have showers only). A good beginning may be the snail soup with herbs or tomato soup with whipped cream. Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 1. Locals flock here when this dish is on the menu. Unfortunately. 339. The restaurant uses only the highest-quality seasonal ingredients. Open: Daily noon to 2 p. The dessert menu is equally scrumptious. % 06221/90000. you may want to dine at the on-site restaurant (see the “Dining in Heidelberg” section. www. The house specialty is saddle of venison for two (in season).m. The menu is in English. Fixed-price menus: 20€–40€ ($25–$50). and 6:30–11:30 V.heidelberger-kulturbrauerei. A children’s menu includes dishes such as Wiener Würstchen (small Vienna-style sausages). try the Dortmunder Actien-Brauerei. 339. Dining in Heidelberg Die Kurfürstenstube $$$$ Altstadt FRENCH The best dining spot in Heidelberg is the wood-paneled Die Kurfürstenstube in the deluxe Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa. and courtyard-facing rooms can be noisy in the summer. AE. V. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). next). See map p. See map p. % 06221/1350. If you like beer. Rates: 116€–149€ ($134–$186) double. located in one of Heidelberg’s most famous Renaissance buildings. you can dine in the large Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) or the smaller Councilors’ Chamber. If you don’t stay here. Reservations recommended. See map p. AE.m.

this large. earlier in this chapter). Potato soup is a good starter.m. V. and Nuremberg Kulturbrauerei Restaurant $ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL 343 Part of a microbrewery and hotel complex (see the “Staying in Heidelberg” section.m. Leyergasse 6. In the Hotel Hirschgasse. See map p. Main courses: 15€–20€ ($19–$25). You can order salads. You can eat on the balcony or. Bus: 11 or 33 to Neckarmünzplatz (then a 3-minute walk south on Leyergasse). to midnight. See map p. or vegetarian meals. MC. swordfish with a pepper crust. or lamb shank. oxtail. You can also get meat dishes: a good rib-eye steak. V.m. See map p. dishes from the grill (bratwursts. For dessert. Kurpfälzisches Museums Restaurant $$ Altstadt GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL On a warm summer’s day or evening. in the beer garden.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. AE. % 06221/90000. 339. olives. roast fish). Open: Daily noon to 2 p. Main courses: 10€–20€ ($13–$25). 339. % 06221/24050. Come here when you’re in the mood for hearty portions of traditional German food washed down by one of the homemade Scheffel’s beers. spareribs). V. Hirschgasse 3.m. . MC. try the mocha and Grand Marnier parfait with fruit sauce. seasonal specialties (herring. or tuna fish with tomatoes. 339. Hauptstrasse 97. pork stomach. Reservations recommended. The menu often includes Rinderfilet (filet of beef) served with bone marrow and a red-wine sauce. in summer.m. popular restaurant formerly was a dance hall. lamb with rosemary. pork filet with mushrooms. Fresh fish dishes may include zander with lemon cream. The limited menu wisely sticks to traditional dishes made with fresh ingredients.–11 p. and 6–10 p. Open: Daily 11 a. and herbs. MC. Stuttgart. followed by homemade noodles. The restaurant also has a pleasant dining room. Bus: 34 (from Bismarckplatz to Hirschgasse stop). Reservations recommended for dinner. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Haupstrasse). nothing is more enjoyable or romantic than dining in the museum’s garden courtyard with its splashing fountain. Main courses: 13€–20€ ($16–$25). % 06221/4540. Open: Daily 10 a. DC. or pork medallions in a pepper-cream sauce with homemade Spätzle (a potato-based pasta). Mensurstube $$ –$$$ North Bank GERMAN/REGIONAL No other place in Heidelberg captures bygone days quite like this rustic and cozy spot in the ancient Hotel Hirschgasse. where swords hang from the ceiling and you sit at 200-year-old tables. Almost everything is best accompanied by Pils beer on tap.

but try to save room for warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. Bus: 11. The easiest and most gradual path begins at the Klingentor. See map p. and the wine list is good. Plan to spend about two hours here. See map p. Set amid woodlands and terraced gardens. Service is friendly. duck breast with asparagus. Even in its deteriorated state. and wandering through the old lanes and squares of the Altstadt is as essential a part of any tour as visiting the tourist attractions. Walking is the most rewarding approach because of the constantly changing views of the town and surrounding countryside. Open: Wed–Mon 6 p. Portions are hearty and very filling. % 06221/20879. The town has few must-see sights. fresh mushrooms in cream sauce with homemade noodles. V.. and one of the most famous historic monuments in Europe. V. Fixed-price menu: 34€–85€ ($42–$106). Visiting the top attraction Heidelberg Castle Most visitors reach the huge red-sandstone Schloss on foot. AE. . Closed 2 weeks in Mar and 2 weeks in Aug. or 41. 339.m. you also find a shorter. the enormous ruins of the castle are undeniably picturesque.m. DC. the main street in the Altstadt.m. You may want to try the Kringelbratwurst (roast sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes) or Swabian sauerbraten (marinated beef with red cabbage and noodles). The menu changes often but may include lamb with a red-wine and onion purée. Main courses: 19€–45€ ($24–$56). Main courses: 8€–20€ ($10–$25). Ingrimstrasse 16. steeper path up Burgweg from Kornmarkt. Sat–Sun 11 a. Zum Goldenen Schaf $$ Altstadt GERMAN/REGIONAL Located on Hauptstrasse. this historic pubrestaurant offers a menu emphasizing regional dishes from Swabia and the Pfalz. 339. or crayfish with fresh melon and herbflavored cream sauce. Exploring Heidelberg Heidelberg is a wonderfully pleasant town to explore. and for many visitors there is only one: the famous Schloss (castle) that looks down on the Altstadt. or by taking a two-minute cable-car ride from Kornmarkt (see “Getting around Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter).–1 a.m. 33. it is one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance castles in Germany. Open: Mon–Fri noon to 1 a. 35. MC. to midnight. Streetcar: 1 or 2 to Bismarckplatz (then a 5-minute walk east on Hauptstrasse). % 06221/183-336. Reservations required.344 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Simplicissimus $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH This elegant gourmet restaurant in the Altstadt is known for its cuisine moderne. 12. Hauptstrasse 115.

000 gallons) of wine.50€ ($2) children. % 06221/25880). daughter of the English king James I) leads to the bridge crossing the former moat. entrance courtyard. free. During the first phase. the castle was struck by lightning. was built in 1751 and once held more than 208. Its restored rooms can be seen on guided tours. In the southeast corner.m. constructed in 1549. you find the remains of a grotto and a sandstone sculpture of Father Rhine. you first come upon the Pulverturm (Gun Tower) and a terrace with views of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. stalls of fresh flowers.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. to 5 p. and Great Cask. vegetables. but the castle as it stands today was built in two main phases. This enormous wine barrel. your castle entrance ticket includes admission. from 1549 to 1620. At the west end of the terrace. 2€ ($2. Admission: Castle grounds. fortifications and living quarters were constructed. connecting the palace of Friedrich IV to the Ottheinrichsbau (palace of Ottheinrich). The museum is open daily from 10 a. Audio tours: 3. the largest in the world. Entering at the main gate. erected from 1601 to 1607 and less damaged than other parts of the castle. and Nuremberg 345 The history of Heidelberg Castle An elevated fortress rose above Heidelberg as early as 1225. In the 19th century. saw the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles as various prince electors of the Palatinate added to the building. See map p. On market days (Wed and Sat). Schlossberg. 4€ ($5) adults. cheese. 1. Tours: Frequent 1-hour guided tours of the castle in English. The Elizabethentor (Elizabeth’s Gate). The second phase. Open: Daily 8 a. Touring the Altstadt Marktplatz (Market Square) is the main square in the Altstadt. Pharmacy Museum. fish.50).50€ ($4.m.000 liters (55. % 06221/538-431. the ruins of the castle became a symbol for the German Romantics and a mecca for tourists from around the world. between about 1400 and 1544.. .50) children.–5:30 p. After it was rebuilt. Housed within Ottheinrich’s palace is the Apothekenmuseum (Pharmacy Museum. in the 16th-century cellars of the castle. 339.75) adults. The Hortus Palatinus (Castle Gardens) originally were created in the 17th century. The castle was the residence of the prince electors for centuries until French troops sacked and destroyed it in the late 17th century. erected by Friedrich V in 1615 for his teenage wife (Elizabeth Stuart. Along the north side of the courtyard stretches the Friedrichsbau (palace of Friedrich IV). is the shell of the Spiegelbau (Hall of Mirrors). re-creating a baroqueand rococo-era chemist’s shop with utensils and laboratory equipment from the 17th and 18th centuries. Stuttgart.m.m. The palace’s terrace offers a magnificent view of Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley. To the east. 3€ ($3. sits the Grosse Fass (Great Cask).

50€ ($3. to 4 p. and at the south end of the square is the Neue Universität (New University). you find the Studentenkarzer (Students’ Prison). A five-minute walk west from the Marktplatz on Hauptstrasse and south 1 block on Grabengasse brings you to Universitätsplatz (University Square). Housed in a baroque palace. A Huguenot cloth merchant who emigrated from France to Heidelberg erected the building in 1592. the church was the burial place of the Palatinate electors.80€ ($2. A few steps past the Old University. to 6 p.346 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany meat. The museum restaurant (see “Dining in Heidelberg.” earlier in this chapter) is a good choice for lunch or dinner.m. cover the walls and even the ceilings. A two-minute walk west on Hauptstrasse from Universitätsplatz brings you to the Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate). Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a. including portraits and silhouettes.m. Graffiti and drawings. The wall has since been removed and the church restored to its original plan. Admission is 2. dominates the west end of Marktplatz. stands on the south side of Marktplatz. discovered in the vicinity nearly 100 years ago. Georg (see “Staying in Heidelberg” earlier in this chapter). and baked goods fill the square. The late-Gothic Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost. no phone.m.25) for students and children 17 and younger. The one masterpiece on display is Tilman Riemenschneider’s 1509 wooden altarpiece showing Christ and the Apostles. is the oldest in Germany. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a. Heidelberg University. The highly decorated Renaissance mansion. 1. (Wed until 8 p. .m.. The prison is open April through September. now the Hotel Zum Ritter St.m. completed in 1932. open daily 8 a. On the northeastern side is the Alte Universität (Old University). For nearly 300 years. Give yourself about 45 minutes to browse through the various exhibits.m. Hauptstrasse 97 (% 06221/583-402). In 1706. on the east side of the square.m. You can also see an archaeological collection with a cast of the jawbone of the 600. where from 1778 to 1914 generations of students were incarcerated in cramped cells for minor offenses. October through March. a wall was erected to divide the church between Roman Catholics and Protestants.–5 p. Admission to the museum is 3€ ($3. The hotel is named for the statue of the Ritter (knight) at the top.). founded in 1386.000-year-old Heidelberg Man (Homo heidelbergensis). built around 1400. Heidelberg’s most noteworthy museum contains a large collection of regional painting and sculpture from the 15th to the 19th centuries. Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.). Augustinerstrasse 2 (% 06221/543-554). to 6 p. a building from the 18th century.75) for adults.10) for adults. and a section on the history of the Palatinate.m. is an early-18th-century building reconstructed in 1908 following a fire.m. The Rathaus (Town Hall).50) for students and children 14 and younger. 2€ ($2.

sells charming original engravings for as little as 10€ ($13). and table. Hauptstrasse 215 (% 06221/619-983). and glass and crystal ornaments. offers a wide assortment of handicrafts from across Germany: music boxes.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Contact % 06274/58352 for tickets or visit www. Bus: 41 or 42). and wooden blocks and figures. where nightly entertainment includes plays. Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn). UntereStrasse 18 (% 06221/28737).m. and dance productions. Hauptstrasse 42 (% 06221/14480). For five weeks beginning in late July. Tram: 1 or 5). near Karlsplatz. The tavern is open April through October on Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a. sells Hummel figurines. The performing arts The main performance stage is Theater der Stadt. bathroom. November through March hours are 5 p. the songs become louder and louder. is known for its array of fine linens and embroideries for bed. Stuttgart.50€ ($3) and classical music. Revelers sit at long oak tables arranged in horseshoe fashion around a pianist. late nights get rolling in clubs around Marktplatz. opened in 1703. Living it up after dark in Heidelberg The large student population keeps Heidelberg humming after dark. A lively outdoor market is open on Wednesday and Saturday at the Marktplatz.m. to 2 p. A mug of beer costs about 2. cuckoo clocks. Hauptstrasse 217 (% 06221/20977). Early evenings often start in the bars along Hauptstrasse.m. Meals go for 10€ to 18€ ($13–$22). and 5 p. and beer steins. including Heidelberg Castle. nutcrackers. ߜ Gätschenberger. Hauptstrasse 177 (% 06221/24255. and theater to venues around the area. Friedrichstrasse 5 (% 06221/583-502. ߜ Kinderwaren Troll.m. is a children’s clothing and toy store with handcrafted puppets. and Nuremberg 347 Shopping in Heidelberg The main shopping street is the traffic-free Hauptstrasse. dolls. jazz.schlossfestspielheidelberg. . to midnight. opera. As the evening progresses. Plöck 71 (% 06221/893-6677). ߜ Michael Kienscherff. to midnight. nativity scenes. Historic taverns Heidelberg’s most famous and revered student tavern. ߜ Black Forest Shop. the Schlossfestspiele festival brings opera. Some noteworthy shops include ߜ Altstadt-Galerie Stefan.

and tents for some 20. Meals cost 8€ to 13€ ($10–$16).95€ ($3. begins in late September with a grand procession of horse-drawn beer wagons and people in traditional costumes. A Side Trip to Stuttgart Located in the Neckar Valley.m. Swabia has been a leader of German industry for decades. Starting in late November. the original inhabitants. and west to the Danube River. with about 230 decorated stalls selling gifts. one of the oldest and largest in Europe. Stuttgart is the capital of the federal state of Baden-Württemberg. but the region also is renowned for its scenic countryside. It’s open Monday through Friday from 5:30 p. For more than a century Stuttgart has been a center of German industry. Forests sweep south to the Bodensee. to midnight. A mug of beer goes for 2. and cinnamon waffles. 115km (71 miles) southeast of Heidelberg. the Schwäbische Wald (Swabian Forest) stretches to the Schwäbische Alb.000 beer yet it remains surprisingly verdant. The building dates from 1634. to midnight. also part of Swabia. Stuttgart has no equal in southwestern Germany.stuttgart-tourist. . With Stuttgart as its capital. Visitors come from across the region to enjoy the city’s museums and performing arts. rides. wine lovers converge to taste a selection of more than 350 Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. Hauptstrasse 213 (% 06221/23085). For dates and more information. The smaller Neckar River flows past Heidelberg and Stuttgart through a vineyard-covered valley.348 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Swabia: Stuttgart’s homeland Swabia (Schwaben in German) is the name for a medieval duchy now contained within the federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southwestern Germany. a wedge of limestone upland south of Stuttgart. the beer festival features food. At the Stuttgart Wine Festival in late August. but most of the people who live here still call the area Swabia. A pianist performs nightly. who were conquered by the Franks in the fifth century A.m. To the north. Dating back to 1818. the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest.) A visit to Stuttgart can be even more enjoyable when you time your trip to coincide with one of the city’s major festivals. visit the city’s Web site at www. Stuttgart plays host to a lively Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt). filled with photographs and memorabilia.70). mulled wine. The name comes from Suevi. Saturday and Sunday from noon to 2:30 p. Stuttgart makes for a great daytrip from Heidelberg. The 16-day Stuttgart Beer Festival. As a cultural center. and 5:30 p. (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter. Next door is Zum Sepp’l.D. All of them take place right in the center of town on Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. nestled in gently rolling hills with woods and vineyards reaching right down into the city.

Heinemann Platz Kleiner Schlossplatz K ien ans tra ass sse Theatersee -Str 3 5 AKADEMIEGARTEN ena Schlossplatz Eug stra ensse stra uer Ulr ich sse sse Urb 8 9 hee Ca st ra ss e r te B Hamburg Berlin GERMANY Frankfurt am Main Stuttgart Munich ATTRACTIONS Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg 7 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart 6 Mercedes-Benz Museum 9 Neues Schloss 3 Staatsgalerie 2 Weissenhofsiedlung 1 Wilhelma 8 DINING Alte Kanzlei 5 Café Königsbau 4 Church Information Post Office i Al To Fernsehturm ex an de rst ra sse Hohenheimer Strasse rh Ebe ar ass e Br str enn as erse sen str s G ai bu rg str e lum ns tra sse ss Charlottenplatz a e tras lzs nig Ki lli che Bo str Th o str uret ass e Lau ass SCHLOSSGARTEN 2 e Staatstheater se Ne stra ckarsse r tle Sat Heg elst sse Ca gs gs ber nn sta a str tras se tte sse rstr 1 Hauptbahnhof ass eg e e rd ns e w tra r Pano am as e ss t ra 0 1/8 mile 125 meters ss Jäg ers ss tra e 0 N SCHLOSSGARTEN e st ra en ss e Moserstrasse We ima rstr ass So ph ien str as se . Stuttgart. ss e ras se an- tra rot Karlsplatz nst stra Fr itz Schillerplatz 7 Kon ns es tra 4 sse tra sse 6 -Ad Berliner Liederhalle Platz trasse asse tr sss Sch lo ne rs G. ra e sse r Rotebühlplatz e nste gu e Au trass s ar kt Ro Olg Marktplatz Urb ast ssStr Tüb Kr as o i n s np Stra ger e rin sse zst Kö ras nig se str ass Hir e sch str a sse St ei ns tra Ha ss up e tS ta ds t tr a Le ss o St e str nha ra as rd ss se e -E lsa s-S Do Th M Ho Es lzs St sling tr.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. and Nuremberg 349 Stuttgart Di He Se am es an tra te ss ers e sse tra rass Krie i Sch lag ille tenstra ten Hegelplatz rstr sch STADTGARTEN ngs tra sse ass e Holzgar Kö e S rad Le u ch Bü ch se eo d St or-H ra e s lw u er.

or other fillings) and Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef topped with onions). Stuttgart Airport (% 0711/948-3388). (See the “Stuttgart” map in this chapter. and accepts American Express. For train schedules and Purchase tickets from the automated machines in U-Bahn stations or from the bus driver. spinach.80€ ($2. Saturday 9 a. Dining in Stuttgart Occupying a section of the Altes Schloss (Old Castle).m.m.m.. Saturdays. The cafe is open Monday through Friday 9 www. (Nov–Apr 1–6 p. Stuttgart has a comprehensive S-Bahn system that links up with the U-Bahn (subway).. and Sundays at 1:30 p. www. Access by car is via the A8 Autobahn east and west or the A81 north and south.25) for one zone. Diners Club.m. for 7€ ($8.m. Coffee. and Sunday 11 a.bahn. egg. an old-fashioned Konditorei (pastry shop) located in the colonnade of the Königsbau next to the new art museum. or you can sit out on the terrace and have an ice cream. to 6 p.m. The restaurant has a cafe section where you can get breakfast and lighter meals. to 8 p. call the city’s transportation authority VVS (% 0711/66060.. MasterCard. serves as a major gateway to southern Germany.m.75).m. and light meals are served at Café Königsbau. A one-day ticket (Einzel Tageskarte) costs 5. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). From the airport’s Terminal 1.vvs. to 6 p.m. . you can reach all the major attractions in the Altstadt on foot. and Sunday 11 a. Main courses go for 9€ to 16€ ($11–$20).) The Mercedes Museum and some other sights require the use of public transportation or a taxi. to 8 p.50) for two zones. located 13km (8 miles) south of the city. cake. Alte Kanzlei. For information. Finding information and taking a tour Located opposite the main train station. Königstrasse 1A (% 0711/222-80. The restaurant is open daily from 11 a. the I-Punkt tourist information office.).350 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Getting to Stuttgart By train.. to 11 p. Schillerplatz 5A (% 0711/29-44-57. The tourist office offers a 21⁄2-hour guided sightseeing bus tour (in German and English) daily at 1 p. Ninety-minute city walking tours (in German only) are offered daily from April through October at 11 a. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. you can take the S2 or S3 S-Bahn directly to the main train station in central Stuttgart.m. Exploring Stuttgart From the train station.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday 9 a. Fares are based on zones. Königstrasse 28 (% 0711/290-787). a one-way ticket costs 1. from April through October. www.m.stuttgart-tourist. to 6 p. The cost is 17€ ($21) per person. and in March on Fridays. specializes in traditional Swabian dishes such as Maultaschen (pasta stuffed with ham.10€ ($6.m. and trip time from Heidelberg is only 40 minutes. is open Monday through Friday 9 a.m.

Landesversicherungsanstalt Asperg Favoritepark Tapachstr. Kirchtalstr. Russische Kirche Giebel Keplerstr. Salzäcker Landhaus Ehningen Gärtringen Nufringen Leinfelden U5 Echterdingen Pleiningen U3 S1 Herrenberg Flughafen Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn 351 S3 Filderstadt S2 U1 2 U3 U4 U5 U6 U7 U8 U9 U13 U14 15 . Maybachstr. Esslinger Str. Schozacher Str. Silberwald Sillenbuch Schemppstr. Zuffenhausen Rathaus Korntaler Str. Killesberg Löwen-Markt Renningen Milchhof Weil Messe Rastatter Str. Millöckerstr. Vogelsang Herderplatz Feuersee Mercedesstr. Wangener-/Landhausstr. Geroksruhe Steile Plochingen S1 U4 U9 Heslach Vogelrain Rathaus Österreichischer Platz Marienplatz Schreiberstr. Neckartor Schlossplatz Staatsgalerie Gerlingen Hölderlinplatz U6 2 Schloss-Johannesstr.Marbach (N) S4 Bietigheim Brückenstr. Friedrich-List-Heim Kursaal Winterbach Beskidenstr. Friedrichswahl Heutingsheimer Str. Stafflenbergstr. Wangen Marztplatz Kodak Obertürkheim Mettingen Esslingen Obresslingen Zell Altbach Lindpaintnerstr. Pleininger Str. Eckhardt Neuwirtshaus Korntal Fortuna Löwentor Weilimdorf Wilhelm-Geiger-Platz Ditzingen Feuerbach Krankenhaus Höfingen Sportpark Feuerbach Leonberg Löwentorbrücke Feuerbach Pfostenwäldle Rutesheim Landauer Str. Beethovenstr. Siegelstr. Vaihinger Str. Breitwiesen Falkerstr. Bopser Weinsteige Degerloch Degerloch Albstr. Borsigstr. Wimpfener Str. Hauptbahnhof Berliner Platz Untertürkheim U4 Stadtmitte Charlottenplatz Olgaeck Schwab-/Bebelstr. Schwabstraße Dobelstr. S4 S5 S6 Botnang Universität Hedelfingen U9 U13 Ruhbank 15 U14 Eugensplatz Heidehofstr. Bockelstr. Peregrinastr. Eltinger Str. Rommelshausen Münster Rathaus Fellbach Stetten-Beinstein Münster Viadukt Sommerain Kraftwerk Münster Endersbach Beutelsbach 2 Obere Ziegelei Mühlsteg Grunbach Gnessener Str. Gaisberg Brendle Im Degen Inselstr. Rosensteinbrücke Geradstetten Nürnberger Str. Vaihingen Schillerplatz U1 U3 U6 Vaihingen SSB-Zentum Rohr Jurastr. Sonnenberg Riedsee Waldau Wasenstr. Wallgraben Rohrer Weg Möhringen Freibad Möhringen Bf U5 U6 U8 Ruit Zinsholz Parksiedlung Scharnhauser Park Kreuzbrunnen Techn. Arndt-/Spittastr. Backnang Mühle Hornbach S3 Maubach Mühlhausen Auwissen Nellmersbach Hofen Max-Eyth-See Winneden Wagrainäcker Schwalkheim Elbestraße Neustadt-Hohenacker Waiblingen Freibergstr. Bubenbad Payerstr. Zuffenhausen Pragsattel Zahn-Nopper-Str. Heumaden S-Bahn S1 S2 S3 U-Bahn S4 S5 S6 Vaihingen Viadukt Fauststr. Mittnachstr. Daimlerplatz Wilhelma Weiler Augsburger Platz Höhenstr. Stammheim Kornwestheim Zuffenhausen Kelterplatz Stammheim Rathaus Hohensteinstr. S2 Badstr. Berliner Platz Gerlingen Siedlung Schlotterbeckstr. Schwabenlandhalle Schorndorf Uff-Kirchhof Benningen Freiberg U5 U14 Neckargröningen Remseck S5 Tamm Freiberg (N) Wlhelmsplatz Bad Cannstatt Stöckach Felbach Lutherkirche U1 Blick Eszet Suttnerstr. U7 Mainsheim der Stadt Pragfriedhof Eckhartsaldenweg Wolfbusch Bergheimer Hof Türlenstraße S6 Salamanderweg Rosenberg-/Seidenstr. Akadamie Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Salzwiessenstr. Bihlplatz Südheimer Platz Österfeld Waldeck Kaltental Engelbold str. Ludwigsburg 15 Fürfelder Str. Stuttgart. Mineralbäder Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion Metzstraße Karl-Olga Krankenhaus Bergfriedhof Raitelsberg Ostendplatz Schlachthof Tal-/Landhausstr. and Nuremberg Goldberg Böblingen Hulb Oberaichen Leinfelden Frank Nellingen Ostfildern U7 U8 Unteraichen Sigmaringer Str.

The new museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. including the first motorcycle (built in 1885) and the first Mercedes (1902). In this section. Hans Memlings’s Bathsheba at her Bath. and treasures found in the tomb of a Celtic prince (circa A. It’s worth a trip to Stuttgart just to see the Kunstmuseum Stuttgart (Stuttgart Art Museum). A must for anyone who has an interest in cars — vintage or otherwise — the Mercedes-Benz Museum. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz).m.and 20th-century works by artists from southern Germany. is one of Stuttgart’s oldest standing structures.m. Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 30–32 (% 0711/470-400. in addition to representatives of the Bauhaus school and Blue Rider group. and Rembrandt’s St. Admission is 3€ ($3. honors the invention of the motorcar by Carl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler. Schillerplatz 6 (% 0711/279-3400.25) for students. the paintings by Otto Dix are particularly compelling (the museum has the most important Otto Dix collection in the world). 530). The top floor. provides a fabulous panoramic view of Stuttgart and its surrounding hills. Some famous examples of European art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries also are exhibited. a cafe open to the public. You can see the highlights in an hour or so. admission is 5€ ($6.25) for adults.The museum. open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a. U-Bahn: Staatsgalerie). the museum is a filigree glass cube surrounding a rough-hewn limestone inner core. The new gallery houses the city’s collection of 19th. charges 8€ ($10) for adults. Untertürkheim Tor 1 (about a 10minute walk). Mercedesstrasse 37. 1€ ($1. to 6 p. Kleiner Schlossplatz 1 (% 0711/216-2188.” designed by the British architect James Stirling and completed in 1984. to 5 p. To reach it. Give yourself at least an hour here. 4€ ($5.50) for students. such as Paul Klee and Lyonel Feininger. Designed by Berlin architects Hascher and Jehle. and Max Beckmann. Art lovers will . You’ll see prehistoric stone sculptures.352 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Altes Schloss and Landesmuseum Württemberg (Old Castle and State Museum of Württemberg).m. The “New State Gallery. the castle now houses a state museum tracing the art and culture of Swabia and Württemberg from the Stone Age to the present. take S-Bahn line S1 to Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. Rebuilt after WWII.25) for students. is considered an icon of postmodern architecture. (Wed until 8 p.75) for adults. you find the 19th. you’ll enjoy every minute (free audio guides are available in English). exhibits works spanning some 550 years. with works of the German expressionists Ernst Kirchner. Picasso. U-Bahn: Schlossplatz).m. Paul in Prison. the city’s finest art museum.D. Highlights include Giovanni Bellini’s The Mourning of Christ. and Monet. a large collection of Swabian sculptures. the Württemberg crown jewels (in the royal vault).).. then follow signs to DaimlerChrysler Werk.m.m. Ernst Barlach. Stuttgart-Cannstatt (% 0711/172-2578).m. The museum moved to a new building in 2006. which opened in spring 2005. to 5 p. Nearly 75 historical vehicles are shown. including works by Modigliani.and 20th-century collection. 2€ ($2. The Neue Staatsgalerie (State Art Gallery). first built as a moated castle in the 14th century and later redone in Renaissance style.

opera. is the largest zoo and botanical garden in Europe..60) for adults.). (Thurs until 9 p. Stuttgart is so close (only 40 minutes by train) that you may want to consider spending an evening there at the ballet. lists all the happenings around Stuttgart. and Sunday noon to 5 p.” earlier in this section on Stuttgart). to 5 p. admission is 11€ ($13) adults. the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday 2 to 6 p. available at Home to more than 9. The park was laid out in 1848 and contains a collection of historical buildings in the Moorish style. provide information about the project and the architects involved. 5.m.m. Bad-Cannstatt (% 0711/54020). Schloss-Strasse (% 0711/2167110. To get there. walking tours are available on Saturdays at 11 take U-Bahn line 14 to the Wilhelma stop.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. The animal houses and greenhouses are open year-round from 8:15 a. For a private architectural tour by an English-speaking city guide/taxi driver. and Hans Scharoun (Hölzweg 1). Displays in the small Architektur-Galerie.m. or concert hall.m.000 animals and plants from around the world. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a. free on Wednesday. Tickets for all concerts are on sale at the tourist information office.50€ ($5. call Anselm Vogt-Moykopf at % 0172/740-1138 (www.m. Stuttgart performing arts Even if you’re staying in Heidelberg. Oberer Schlossgarten (% 0711/ 20-20-90. The magazine Lift. Neckartalstrasse. free for children 13 and younger. . home to the Stuttgarter Philharmoniker and the Radio Symphony Orchestra. U-Bahn: Liederhalle/Berlinerplatz). Am Weissenhof 30 (% 0711/257-1434.m. Stuttgart.stadtrund fahrt-stuttgart. Staatstheater (State Theater). Wilhelma.75) children younger than 17. take a taxi or the U-Bahn line 7 to the Killesberg-Messe stop and walk northeast around the Messe into the residential neighborhood. to 6 p.40€ ($6. is home to the highly regarded Stuttgart Ballet and the Staatsoper (State Opera). a housing estate built for a building exhibition in 1927. Walking through the estate you see houses created by architects such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (Am Weissenhof 14–29). Admission is 4. and Nuremberg 353 Classics of modernist architecture Architecture buffs will want to pay a visit to Weissenhofsiedlung (Weissenhof Estate). www. Classical and other concerts are given in the Liederhalle.). want to give themselves a couple of hours here. To reach the Weissenhof Estate. Le Corbusier (Rathenaustrasse 1–3). S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Many of the existing houses represent the functional style that was being promoted by the Bauhaus school of art and design.m. Listings of the various cultural events and tickets are available from the tourist office (see “Finding information and taking a tour. (Nov–Feb until 4 p.

many of Nuremberg’s most important buildings. From 1356 onward. dates back to about 1050. made it one of the wealthiest and most important cities in medieval Germany. As a result. the Nazi war-crimes trials were held here. convened by the International Military Tribunal. the city grew from a fortress and military base in eastern Franconia (a medieval duchy of south-central Germany) to a virtually self-governing Free Imperial City (Freie Reichsstadt). In 300 years. Nearly every German city has a restored Altstadt. After he seized power in 1933.) This strikingly attractive and lively city has about half a million residents. were restored or reconstructed in the Altstadt. the city’s architecture and previous role in the Holy Roman Empire represented the quintessence of Germany. Nuremberg made its second. 148km (92 miles) northwest of Munich. Hitler made Nuremberg the Nazi Party’s permanent convention and rally site. . Spending a day or more exploring its streets. sports equipment. churches. an Art Nouveau building dating from 1914 and full of stalls selling local and foreign delicacies. shoes. and most infamous. tableware. under Hitler. a small town 35km (21 miles) south of Stuttgart and easily accessible by train. But for a special shopping experience. “Nourenberc. But the city fell into decline until. right outside the main train station. each newly elected emperor of the Holy Roman Empire had to convene his first Reichstag.354 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Shopping in Stuttgart You’ll find department stores and boutiques lining Königstrasse. In the postwar years. in Nuremberg. On and around Kanalstrasse. (See the “Nuremberg” map in this chapter. with the exceptions of Dresden and Berlin. Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth Nuremberg (or Nürnberg in German) is located in Bavaria. you find a selection of international designer outlets selling clothing. the historic center. suffered such wartime devastation. a cultural flowering made Nuremberg the center of the German Renaissance. The city’s role as capital of the empire. take note: Metzingen. mark on German history. and more. or meeting with the princes of the empire. historic buildings. is the home of Germany’s best and most numerous factory-outlet stores.” as the city originally was known. head to the Markthalle (Market Hall). and museums definitely is worth it. but few have been reborn with the kind of evocative grace and charm of Nuremberg. To Hitler. Serious shoppers. Dorotheenstrasse 4 (U-Bahn: Schlossplatz). and its location at the crossroads of major trade routes. no other German city. During the 15th and 16th centuries. including some of the finest Gothic and Renaissance churches in Germany. After the war.

Travel time from Frankfurt is about 2 hours. The city’s Hauptbahnhof is within walking distance of all the major attractions. Johannis Friedhof Li n Joh an ng a 1 Pr Kleinweidenhle mühle Deuts Neutor ttorg rabe n Pegn iese itz l er w 4 5 6 AlbrechtDürer-Platz Theresiens.-SebaldusBerlin Kirche 9 Frauenkirche 15 GERMANY Germanisches Nationalmuseum 18 Frankfurt Church Information i Hauptmarkt 14 Nuremberg Railway Kaiserburg 2 Munich Schöner Brunnen 11 s tr rien se as stra sse 20 B a h n h o f s t r a ss e 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters N . less than 5 hours. L a uf e r g. JOHANNIS 2 3 dSchil e gass Maxtor Lange G asse Hirschel gasse I n . you find reminders of Nuremberg’s brightest period. from Berlin. For information and schedules. Getting there You can easily reach Nuremberg by train from anywhere in Germany or Europe. 9 10 7 Obstmarkt Burgs s se Ha b gr a en Tetze lga sse de trasse B nis urgschmiets trasse str ass e ST.bahn. call Deutsche Bahn (% 11861. 1 hour 40 minutes.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. from Munich.-LorenzKirche 19 Dokumentationszentrum Hamburg Reichsparteitagsgelände 21 St. t ers at rg. Stuttgart. and Nuremberg 355 Nuremberg St. l e rass Praterstrasse Beckschlage Wes Neue G. 8 Karlstrasse i 11 12 13 Haupt-14 markt 21 Kö n ig LORENZ Kornmarkt 18 i Ma TAFELHOF ATTRACTIONS Schwurgerichtssaal 600 1 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus 3 Spielzeugmuseum 8 Altes Rathaus 13 St. a ss to rg ra ras se hst eic Bl Gr il Sp itt ler A L T S T A D T 17 sse Brunnengasse Ma ri en to r 19 abe w ud Färbe Am Plärrer Ludwigstor t up ss Hastra sto e rgr tra igsJacobplatz L Spittlertor rstra Fürther Tor sse Fraue ngass e Ka b gas tharin gr a se enBlu Lor me enz nst er S ras tra se sse en rge be len be n Pegnitz Adlerstrasse Lauf r e rto Str 16 15 rgra be n chhe rrnstr asse e n - Lessingstrasse aben asse San dstr Hauptbahnhof Kö Frauentorgr nig ACCOMMODATIONS Burghotel Nürnberg 6 Dürer-Hotel 4 Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg 20 Romantik Hotel am Jusephsplatz 17 DINING Bratwurst-Häusle 12 Essigbrätlein 7 Goldenes Posthorn 10 Heilig-Geist-Spital 16 As you wander through the streets of this ancient capital of the Holy Roman Empire.

m. Although the Altstadt is larger than the historic centers in many other German cities. and from Berlin. from Frankfurt. Orienting yourself Nearly all that is of interest to the visitor is found in Nuremberg’s Altstadt. a small sightseeing train operated by Nürnberger Altstadtrundfahrten (% 0911/421-919) runs through the Altstadt. to 6 p. take the A9 Autobahn north.50) for children. parts of which still remain and have rampart walks and gateway towers.m. To the north lies the Hauptmarkt. to 4 p. passing all the major sights on a 40-minute tour with commentary in German (English translations available). www.m. Buy your tickets from the tourist information office or from the guide. you can walk .m. 6km (4 miles) north of the city center. to 1 p. Flughafen Nürnberg (% 0911/93700.356 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany For those traveling by plane.m. children younger than 14 free.m. crowning the northern periphery is the Kaiserburg. is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. from major German and European cities. and Sunday (May–Sept only) from 10 a.m. By car from Munich. In 30 minutes. The tour includes a visit to the Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle). one of the most successfully restored historic city centers in Germany. take the A9 Autobahn south. You find historic sights both north and south of the river. connections are available to Nuremberg’s small airport. opposite the train station at Königstrasse 93 (% 0911/233-6132. A guided 21⁄2-hour walking tour of the city center in English departs daily (May–Oct and Nov 30–Jan 6) at 1 p.m. and 2 to 4 p. to 7 p. plus admission to the castle. Roughly oval in shape. picturesque Pegnitz River bisects the the old imperial castle. From April through October and on weekends in November and March. head southeast along the A3 Autobahn. all its sights are easily accessible on foot. the entire Altstadt lies within a double wall of medieval fortifications.tourismus. An additional branch at Hauptmarkt 18 (% 0911/231-5555) is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. Cost is 5€ ($6. Finding information and taking a tour The tourist information 2€ ($2.nuernberg.m. Getting around Nuremberg Nuremberg’s Altstadt is almost entirely closed to traffic.25) for adults. from the tourist information office at the Hauptmarkt. The Hauptbahnhof lies on the southern perimeter of the Altstadt. The cost is 8€ ($10) adults. www. The train departs from the fountain in the Hauptmarkt in front of the tourist office several times a day from 10:30 a. The small.airportnuernberg. the city’s main market square.

Fax: 0911/ 23-88-91-00. 355. The functional bathrooms are tiled and come with shower units. call the city’s transportation authority. V. V. MC. See map p. Bedrooms are compact and nicely furnished. Burghotel Nürnberg $ –$$$ Altstadt This reliable. later in this chapter).com. Rates: 135€–180€ ($169–$225) double. alongside the castle The easiest way to use the system is to buy a TagesTicket (day ticket) for 3.altstadthotels. The smallish tiled baths have showers (some have tub-shower combinations). and buses. Stuttgart. Mediumsized rooms done in pastel colors open onto the street or a back garden. The ambience throughout is modern and pleasant.50). Rates include continental breakfast. See map p. and close to all the major sightseeing attractions in the Altstadt. in a pretty room off the lobby. solid comfort in a great Altstadt location for a reasonable price. call % 0911/19410. special weekend and summer rates. % 0911/23-88-90. Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg $$$$ Altstadt At one time. Fax: 0911/ 2146-65555. Rates: 98€–175€ ($122–$187) double. Rates include buffet breakfast. % 0911/214-6650. you could find “grand” hotels like this all across Europe. www. For a taxi. VGN (% 0911/270-750). Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse to Lammsgasse). DC. Lammsgasse 3.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. trams. 90403 Nürnberg. The hotel is below the castle walls in one of the most historic parts of the old city. They were always close to train stations (because that was how most people . Walking in the Altstadt is easier than using public transportation. MC. AE. AE. 46-room hotel provides good.60€ ($4. Staying in Nuremberg See Chapter 22 for a listing of the charming Romantik Hotel am Josephsplatz ($–$$$). www. Fares are based on zones. Neutormauer 32. and Nuremberg 357 from the Hauptbahnhof to the Kaiserburg through the heart of the city’s medieval core and past most of the historic monuments. Dürer-Hotel $$ –$$$ Altstadt The 107-room Dürer stands beside the birthplace of its namesake. tickets purchased on Saturday also are good all day Sunday. Nuremberg’s transportation system consists of a U-Bahn (subway). Buy your tickets from the machines in the U-Bahn stations. 355. You can enjoy your breakfast. For more information. DC. 90403 Nürnberg. next to Albrecht Dürer’s house (see the “Exploring Nuremberg” section. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 5-minute walk southwest along the city wall).altstadthotels. the only meal served.

zwei. the largest in Nuremberg. 355. V. Built before World War I. A good beer to go with your wursts is Lederer Pils. 90402 Nürnberg. Fax: 0911/23-22-444. originally was a meeting place for wine merchants. . Note: Those big. a beer brewed locally since 1468. 355. Bratwurst-Häusle $ FRANCONIAN The Bratwurst Häusle is the most famous bratwurst house in the city. and Canada. each one you eat goes on your bill and costs 5. served on pewter plates. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (the hotel is directly across the street from the train station). the open grill in the rustic.–10:30 p.80€ ($ 7). The locals consider fewer than six bratwursts a snack. Essigbrätlein $$$$ FRANCONIAN/CONTINENTAL The city’s most ancient restaurant. Open: Mon–Sat 10 a. known for its hearty and relatively uncomplicated cuisine. have roomy. or 0911/23220.m. Dining in Nuremberg Nuremberg is in a region called Franconia. two. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (then a 5minute walk north on Königsttrasse to Rathausplatz). with many nouvelle recipes. 8. The hungry consumer shouts back the number of bratwursts he wants. people typically have up to 14 for lunch.358 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany traveled). www. Your bratwursts may come with sauerkraut or rye bread with very hot mustard. delicious-looking pretzels (Brezeln) on your table are not free.lemeridien. or 12 pieces). You can also get them to go (zum mitnehmen). wood-paneled dining room warms you. three . See map p. marble-clad bathrooms. DC. this grand hotel escaped destruction in World War II and consequently still retains much of its unique Art Nouveau atmosphere and detailing.) and so on.50–$13). V. Rathausplatz 1.m. See map p. . Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is inventive and refreshing. The city is famous for its finger-size Rostbratwurst made of pork and various spices and then broiled on a charcoal grill. . The guest rooms. AE. Bahnhofstrasse 1–3. You may hear the sausage seller in an open booth on the street shouting. Rates: 250€–390€ ($312–$487) double. Sebald. Main courses: 6€–11€ ($7.” (one. % 800/543-4300 in the U. Children under 12 stay free in their parents’ room and baby-sitting can be arranged. drei . 10. Look for an ever-changing menu based on seasonal availability. AE. in summer. you can dine on a leafy outdoor terrace. . Seasonal game and fish dishes also are staples in restaurants serving Franconian fare. The traditional specialty is roast loin of beef marinated in vinegar (what the name of the . % 0911/227-695.S. located opposite the Rathaus and close to the church of St. MC. “Eins. dating from 1550. In winter. Come to sample original Nürnberger Rostbratwurst (6. and they were always the largest and most glamorous places to stay.

% 0911/225-153. Wiener Schnitzel with french fries. V. Stuttgart.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. MC. AE. Fixed-price meals: 38€–42€ ($47–$52) lunch. Vegetarians can choose from vegetable lasagna or various salads. Open: Daily 11 a. 20€–42€ ($25–$52) dinner. Kettensteg is a nice place to relax and have a good time. See map p. % 0911/225-131. Although the atmosphere has become more casual and touristy in recent years. Glöckleingasse 2. Main courses: 20€–28€ ($25–$35). DC. hearty and filling. you can order leg of venison with noodles and berries.. and wurst with a mixture of onions and vinegar.m. and so are pork knuckle and sauerbraten. bar. venison in red wine with plums. Carp is a specialty. Closed Jan 1–15 and 2 weeks in Aug (dates vary). The menu is limited to just a few dishes.m. The wine list is abundant and excellent. Fixed-price meals: 17€ ($21) lunch. DC. See map p. Open: Mon–Sat noon to 2:30 p. Among its mementos is a drinking glass reputedly used by Albrecht Dürer. Bus: 46 or 47 to Spitalgasse. The restaurant has a fine wine list. Goldenes Posthorn $$ –$$$ FRANCONIAN No other restaurant in Nuremberg can match the antique atmosphere of the Goldenes Posthorn. 355. and Nuremberg 359 restaurant means in German). talking and drinking and eating under the trees. . V. spans the Pegnitz River and is an atmospheric spot to dine. and 6–11:30 p. and bratwursts.m. Kettensteg $ FRANCONIAN/INTERNATIONAL This restaurant. The main dishes are typical Franconian fare. MC. the restaurant’s kitchen still features such old-fashioned but satisfying Franconian dishes as quail stuffed with gooseliver and nuts. See map p. MC. Main courses: 7€–20€ ($8. with more than 100 vintages. AE. to midnight. fresh carp (in winter). Open: Tues–Fri noon to 1:30 p. 355. and beer garden beside the river in a romantic corner of the Altstadt is a real scene on warm evenings. 355. 65€–79€ ($81–$99) dinner. Main courses: 10€–14€ ($13–$17). when the tables fill up fast and everyone stays late. You’ll want to dress up a bit if you’re going to dine here.75–$25). Spitalgasse 16. AE.m. V. Reservations required. % 0911/221-761. DC. In season.m. Weinmarkt 3. Heilig-Geist-Spital $ FRANCONIAN Nuremberg’s largest historic wine house. including vintages that date back to 1889. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Winklerstrasse to Weinmarkt). such as curried chicken on rice. Bus: 36 to Burgstrasse (then a 2-minute walk south to Glöckleingasse). Reservations recommended. Tues–Sat 7–9:30 p. which claims to be in the oldest house in Germany. in business for 650 years.

. original etchings and woodcuts. It’s a huge place and not laid out in an intuitive way. Tours: Guided tours in English Sat 2 p.m.m. 2. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus (Albrecht Dürer House) Albrecht Dürer.50€ ($3. (Wed until 9 p. and you need to give yourself at least two hours to see it.m. Kartäusergasse 1..10) students and children ages 6 through 15. one of the great German artists of the Renaissance. as is a self-portrait by Rembrandt. The extensive painting and sculpture sections include works by Renaissance greats Albrecht Dürer and Veit Stoss.360 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Maxplatz 35.m. Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum) Germany’s largest and most important museum of German art and culture is the one must-see museum in Nuremberg. and the healing arts. Open: Summer daily 11 a. 355. is on display. a sculptor and woodcarver known for his “nervous” angular forms and realism. Tues–Sun 10 a.D. nearly all of which are found in the Altstadt. This is an exhaustive and exhausting place. it’s the only completely preserved Gothic house left in Nuremberg.m.–2:30 p.m. See map p.10). winter daily 11 a. U-Bahn: Opernhaus (then a 3minute walk north on Kartäusergasse). Furnishings in many of the rooms are important historical pieces.–6 p. weapons.–5 p. Exhibits inside the house are devoted to Dürer’s life and works. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a..m.–5 p. historic musical instruments. so you need to choose your areas of interest and consult the galleries’ map frequently. Admission: 5€ ($6.m. the structure has a first floor of sandstone surmounted by two half-timbered stories and a gabled roof.m. Bus: 36 to Maxplatz.25) adults.). % 0911/231-2568.m. See map p.m. Most of the historic core is for pedestrians only.m. Typical of the well-to-do burghers’ houses of the 15th century. Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39. lived in this house from 1509 to 1528. and 6–11:30 p. Everyday life in Germany through the ages is documented with domestic furnishings. The prehistoric and early historical sections contain finds from the Stone Age and from the burial sites of the Merovingians (a Frankish dynasty ruling from about A. Exploring Nuremberg You need at least one full day to explore the main attractions of Nuremberg. dollhouses. % 0911/221-081. and copies of Dürer’s paintings. Built in 1420. The collection covers the entire spectrum of German craftsmanship and fine arts from their beginnings to the present day.). created by Martin Behaim.m. The world’s first globe.25) adults. (Thurs until 8 p. Admission: 5€ ($6. 355. Open: Mon (July–Sept only) 10 a. % 0911/13310. 500 to 750). Main courses: 8€–13€ ($10–$16). so walking is a pleasure.–11 p.50€ ($3.m. tours 2. folk objects. 4€ ($4) children and students. No credit cards. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 3-minute walk south on Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse).

figures of the seven electors appear and pay homage to Emperor Karl IV. the massive bastions of the fortress. and the castle gardens. Admission: 5€ ($6. and explains the history of the castle. dates from 1340. Tram: Tiergärtnertor (then a 10-minute walk north following signs). the Hauptmarkt is the most colorful square in the city. See map p. and vegetables.– 4 p. Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum) Nuremberg is a major toy center. who lived in the inner core of the castle complex. 355.–6 p.). has on its facade a gilded 16th-century mechanical clock called the Männleinlaufen (a hard-to-translate word meaning “little men running”). With their heavy oak beams and painted ceilings.m. Filled with stalls selling fresh flowers.m.m. and toys — both hand. Sun 12:30–6 p. The Kaiserburg Museum (% 0911/2009540) contains antique weaponry.and machinemade — fill all three floors of this museum. Some date from medieval . The oldest portion.–6 p. the 11th-century Fünfeckturm (Pentagonal Tower). Watchmen and guards used the ramparts with their parapet walks and secret passages to protect the kings and emperors. is Nuremberg’s geographic and symbolic heart.m. free for children 16 and younger. Open: Apr–Sept daily 9 a.. the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well).) pyramid-shaped stone fountain from 1396. Kaiserburg (Imperial Castle) The Kaiserburg. was the official residence of the German kings and emperors from 1050 to 1571.m. armor. Allot at least an hour to explore the various nooks and crannies of the castle.. The 14th-century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady.m. a later section. Oct–Mar daily 10 a. looming above the city from its hilltop at the northern edge of the Altstadt. an 18m-high (60-ft. completed in 1622. Most of the buildings were constructed during the 12th century. Stuttgart. and paintings. and Nuremberg Hauptmarkt (Main Market Square) 361 The cobblestoned Hauptmarkt. fruits. The oldest part of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall). % 0911/206-560. In the northwest corner stands the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain). on Rathausplatz just off the market square. open Mon–Sat 9 a. The council of Nuremberg erected another set of buildings in the 14th and 15th centuries when its responsibilities expanded to include the protection of the emperor. The rooms are decorated with period Gothic furnishings. now a youth hostel. 4€ ($5) students. marks the architectural transition from Renaissance to baroque style.m. A fine view of the roofs and towers of Nuremberg can be seen from its terraces. every day at noon. % 0911/2446590.25) adults. just north of the Pegnitz River at the northern end of Königstrasse. the great Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall) on the ground floor and the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) on the second floor look much as they did when King Frederick III rebuilt them in the 15th century. has been in ruins since a fire destroyed it in 1420.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. Burgstrasse. The new buildings include the Kaiserstallung (Emperor’s Stables). on the eastern edge of the square.

m.50€ ($3). Exhibits include a large collection of dolls and old dollhouses. reopened as the new Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände (Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds). 2. to 6 p. See map p. The corridor houses an exhibition that chronicles the ruthless misuse of power under National Socialism. You don’t have to be a kid. visit the Schwurgerichtssaal 600 (International Military Tribunal).50€ ($3. a specially remodeled courtroom.-Lorenze-Kirche was begun in 1270 and took more than 200 years to complete. including Barbie dolls and LEGO blocks. To reach the center. which is larger than the Colosseum in Rome. and stereoscopes).362 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Judgment at Nuremberg If you’re interested in a famous landmark of WWII. 21 of the surviving leaders of the Third Reich stood trial in November 1945 for crimes against humanity. Here. more if you have kids in tow.25) admission includes an audio guide. and a magnificent stained-glass rosette window glows above the organ at the west end. in room 600.10) students and children. and model railways and other miniature vehicles. Saturday and Sunday 10 a.. The center is open Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to the left of the altar. Fürther Strasse 110 (% 0911/231-5421. Lawrence) The largest and most beautiful Gothic church in Nuremberg rises above Lorenzerplatz. soaring pillars adorned with expressive Gothic sculptures line the nave. though. to 6 p. 355. Albert Speer. the huge Congress Hall designed by Hitler’s architect. and. . Twin towers flank the west portal with its sculptures depicting the theme of redemption. Sat–Sun 10 a.. times.. A glass corridor now pierces the upper level of Speer’s Congress Hall. so tours (in German only) are available only on Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 4 p. Bayernstrasse 110 (% 0911/ 231-5666). from Adam and Eve through the Last Judgment. magic lanterns. % 0911/231-3164. optical toys (such as peep shows.m. where the Nuremberg Trials took place. take Tram 6 or 9 or Bus 36. Inside. Afterward.-Lorenz-Kirche (Church of St. St.m. The building still serves as a courthouse. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. I strongly recommend a visit here because it provides a chronological overview of the rise of Nazism and its subsequent horrors in a compelling format. 55.m. The St. Karlstrasse 13–15. a stone tabernacle by Adam Krafft (1496) presents likenesses of the sculptor and two apprentices.25) adults. or 65 to the Docu-Zentrum stop. to enjoy this acclaimed museum. the 5€ ($6. Bus: 36 to Hauptmarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Augustinerstrasse and north on Karlstrasse). Admission is 2.–5 p. Objects on the top floor illustrate the history of toys since 1945. U-Bahn: Bärenschanze). draw. In November 2001.m.–6 p. Kids can play with toys. carved in linden wood by Veit Stoss. Give yourself at least an hour.m. The church contains two more remarkable works: The Angelic Salutation (1519). hangs over the entrance to the choir. Admission: 5€ ($6. or do crafts in a supervised playroom. ten were hanged.m.m.

Between the two east pillars is a 16thcentury Crucifixion group dominated by a life-size Crucifix by Veit Stoss. the larger east choir. U-Bahn: Weisser Turm). handicrafts. Rathausplatz 7 (% 0911/204-848. salad.m. is a theater complex offering productions of drama (in the Schauspielhaus) and opera (in the Opernhaus). Triebhaus. Performances by singers and musicians. The square is especially beautiful at night. held here for some 400 years.. to 4 p. Sebalderplatz. U-Bahn: Opernhaus).m. fruitcakes.m.-Sebaldus-Kirche Consecrated in 1273. June–Sept daily 9:30 a. this church dedicated to Nuremberg’s patron saint represents the stylistic transition from late Romanesque to early Gothic styles. and Nuremberg 363 See map p. The nave and west choir are Romanesque.m. Nuremberg’s Hauptmarkt becomes the setting for the Christkindlmarkt. the Handwerkerhof (Craftsmen’s Courtyard.–6 p. Hofman. The Christmas fair transforms Hauptmarkt into a small town of wood-and-cloth stalls selling tree ornaments. Lorenzer Platz 10. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit the station).m. The shops are open weekdays (and Sun in Dec) from 10 a. Steiff Galerie. 355. Sun 1–4 p. Tickets range from 8€ to 50€ ($10–$63). % 0911/209-287.Chapter 18: Heidelberg. An artists’ hangout. and puppet groups occur daily.m. and .. Open: Mar–May daily 9:30 a. consecrated in 1379. and theater. Stuttgart.m. Karl-Griolenberger-Strasse 28 (% 0911/ 223-041. Bus: 36). U-Bahn: Lorenzerkirche)..–8 p.m.–4 p. candies. Admission: Free. sells painted tin figures of soldiers and Christmas decorations. St. Admission: Free. has classic and collectible Steiff bears for 90€ to 140€ ($112–$175).m.. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof) is an enclave of halftimbered shops and stalls where artisans create and sell a wide range of handicrafts (along with touristy souvenirs). is Gothic. when all the surrounding buildings are floodlit. tinsel.m. % 0911/214-2516. Open: Mon–Sat 9 a.m. to 6:30 p. opens early for big breakfasts (served all day) that run from 4€ to 18€ ($5–$22) and offers soup. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche (the church is on the square as you exit).m. See map p. 355. Living it up after dark in Nuremberg The Städtische Bühnen (State Theaters). Lebkuchen (see the sidebar “Love that Lebkuchen”). Kaiserstrasse 1–9 (% 0911/235-5075. the oldest Christmas fair in Germany. and Saturday from 10 a. Oct–Feb daily 9 a. dance. From Advent Sunday to December 24. Richard-Wagner-Platz 2–10 (% 0911/231-3808.–5 p.m. Shopping in Nuremberg Located across from the railway station. and Glühwein (hot red wine spiced with cloves and cinnamon).

The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 8 a. Café Ruhestörung. Bergstrasse 1 (% 0911/243-464.m. The city’s been the capital of Lebkuchen since the early 15th century. .m.m. The cafe is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 sandwich specials from 4.50€ to 7€ ($5. many places make and sell Lebkuchen in several different forms.m.m. has a pleasant patio where you can order a drink or a sandwich. to be the best Lebkuchen store in Nuremberg.50) until 10:30 p. sells Lebkuchen packed in containers that look like half-timbered German houses. to 1 a. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche). inexpensive gift. These delicious honey-andspice cakes evolved into their round shape in Nuremberg. and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 a. Tetzelgasse 21 (% 0911/221-921.m. Lebkuchen Frauenholz. Sandwiches and light meals cost 4. Many consider Lebkuchen Schmidt.364 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Love that Lebkuchen Lebkuchen (layb-koo-kin) is to Nuremberg what Marzipan is to Lübeck. to 1 a.lebkuchenschmidt. Zollhausstrasse 30 (% 0911/89660. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a. Lebkuchen makes a great.60–$8. U-Bahn: Lorenzkirche).m.m.60–$7. www. to 1 a.m. While jealously guarding their recipes.50€ to 6€ ($5. to 1 a.

the river originates in southeastern Switzerland. and forms Germany’s southwestern boundary as it continues west.Chapter 19 Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine In This Chapter ᮣ Discovering the Rhine-side city of Cologne ᮣ Enjoying a boat trip on the Rhine ᮣ Exploring the warm wine country of the Rheingau ᮣ Taking in the scenery of the lovely Mosel Valley T he Rhine (spelled Rhein in German) is one of the world’s great rivers.320km (820 miles) long. km (9. you can drive into the Rheingau. was a beautiful young woman who threw herself into the Rhine in despair over a faithless lover. the most famous being the one attached to a high rock called the Lorelei (also spelled Loreley) towering above the town of St. medieval towns. Sitting right on the river. Through the centuries.) In this chapter. see Chapter 17). the area along the river’s west bank. encompasses roughly 23. Transformed into a siren. so the story goes. the Rhine has inspired many legends. this city makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland. Goarshausen. the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world. From Cologne. The Rhine also is at the musical heart of Richard Wagner’s four-opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen. who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles. Lorelei. The Rhineland. a lovely winegrowing section of the . blonde hair and taking out her revenge by luring fishermen and ship captains to their destruction. (See “The Rhineland” map in this chapter. the Rhineland’s largest and most important city. she sat on the rock combing her long.000 sq. Some 1. I give most of the coverage to Cologne.000 sq. north. flows through the Bodensee (Lake Constance. and vineyard-covered slopes. and northwest to the North Sea. For about two centuries now. miles) and is a treasure-trove for tourists.

When the weather turns warm. and a humble Romanesque church wedged in among luxury shops. Older than the cathedral. and getting there is easy by train. Cologne traces its beginnings to 38 B. In addition to its substantial Roman legacy. you can traverse 2. the churches drew medieval pilgrims from all across Europe to “Holy Cologne. many of whom come to attend the giant international trade fairs held in the Köln Messe. the city boasts 12 major Romanesque churches. Music. the emperor Claudius gave the city municipal rights as capital of a Roman province. The Kölner themselves are refreshingly relaxed and down-to-earth in how they enjoy their city. On a ten-minute walk in Cologne. or trade-fair grounds.D. As early as A. Getting there Cologne is one of the major cities in western Germany. The city also is famous as the birthplace of eau de Cologne. .000 years of history. The range of its museums and the quality of their collections make Cologne one of the outstanding museum cities of Germany. an opera at the highly regarded opera house. a dizzyingly ornate Gothic cathedral beside a modern museum complex.366 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace. or a boisterous outdoor concert in the Rheinpark.C. Cologne’s unique and delicious beer. 50. are immediately struck by Cologne’s cheek-by-jowl juxtaposition of the very old with the very new. Ancient traditions are annually renewed in the city’s raucous pre-Lenten Carnival (called Fasching). And although not as grand and legend-filled as the Rhine. or plane. and a substantial meal of typical Rhineland cuisine. Every year they welcome millions of visitors. parades. Germany’s fourth-largest and oldest city. covered with meticulously tended vineyards.. car. the Mosel Valley. Cologne — spelled Köln in Germany and pronounced koeln — offers far more than just Germany’s largest cathedral. when Roman legions set up camp here. and general delirium. I describe the highlights of all these side trips later in this chapter. You can see Roman ruins in an underground parking garage. whether it’s a symphony concert in the modern philharmonic hall. Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine Visitors to this lively metropolis on the Rhine. visitors and citizens alike stroll along the Rhine promenades and flock to outdoor taverns and restaurants to enjoy the pleasures of a Kölsch. is also worth exploring. is likewise a vital component of life here. a time of masked balls.” one of the most important pilgrimage cities in medieval Christendom.

The trip takes 20 The fastest and simplest way to get into the city is by taking an S-Bahn train (S-13) from the new airport train station directly to the Cologne main train station. www.m. is located 14km (9 miles) southeast of the city.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 367 The Rhineland Rh A57 A31 A3 A43 A1 Hamm A2 A44 7 0 0 64 55 30 mi Paderborn N 30 km in e 68 Herne NETHERLANDS Duisburg Essen A2 Dortmund Hamburg 7 A44 7 Mönchengladbach Hochneukirch A61 A4 Düsseldorf A46 A1 Wuppertal A45 55 ANY R MBerlin GE Bonn Area of detail Frankfurt 252 am Main A44 Cologne (Köln) A4 Siegen 62 Munich 3 Aachen Bonn Bad Godesberg A1 258 Marburg A45 A3 3 Alsfeld A5 A61 255 42 54 Giessen Wetzlar 49 Rh in e BELGIUM 9 Koblenz A3 A27 A5 A45 Daun A48 A61 54 Gelnhausen ose A1 327 Wiesbaden Rüdesheim Frankfurt am Main A3 M l Assmannshausen Bingen 50 Bitburg Mainz Aschaffenburg Rh i Bad Kreuznach LUXEMBOURG Trier Luxembourg A1 41 A63 A61 Darmstadt A5 A67 M a in ne Idar-Oberstein 271 Bockenheim Grünstadt Neuleiningen A6 9 Worms 469 A62 Mannheim Ne Kaiserslautern A8 A6 A62 Ludwigshafen Speyer 10 ckar 27 Heidelberg A6 A65 9 Saarbrücken Metz F R A N C E A5 Heilbronn Karlsruhe By plane Cologne’s airport. Direct flights arrive from most major European cities.75). A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 25€ ($31).m. to nearly 2 a. the fare is 3€ ($3. Konrad-Adenauer-Flughafen Köln/Bonn (% 02203/ 40-40-01. It runs from 5 a. .airport-cgn.

tram. Frankfurt (trip time: 21⁄2 hours). Finding information The Köln Tourismus Office. and S-Bahn (light-rail) system. and many of them are still there. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). the Kölner Tageskarte.m.75€ ($1) for children. and Hamburg (trip time: 41⁄2 hours).de/tourismus. Getting around The compact and pedestrian-friendly Altstadt. call German Rail at % 11861 or visit www. to 5 p.m. is called Deutz. while the A4 Autobahn travels east and west. U-Bahn (subway). so reaching the city from anywhere in Germany or the rest of Europe is easy.368 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany By train Cologne is a major rail hub. The Altstadt spreads in a semicircle west from the Rhine to a ring road that follows the line of the 12th-century city walls (demolished. including the mighty cathedral and the most important museums. Besides providing the best views of the cathedral-dominated Cologne skyline. the historical heart of Cologne. is a . the “new” part of town dating from the 19th century. is easily explored on foot.50€ ($2) for adults. The office has city maps. Deutz is where you find the Köln Messe (trade-fair grounds) and the Rhinepark. the restored and much altered medieval core of the city.75). next to the cathedral. except for three gateways. Unter Fettenhennen 19 (% 0221/221-30400. where the Romans built their first walled colony. The A3 Autobahn connects the city to the north and south. are located in the Altstadt (Old Town). to 8 p. costs 8€ ($10) and enables you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network (but the Cologne Welcome The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is in the heart of the city. 0. a room-rental service (3€/$3. www. Frequent daily trains arrive from Berlin (trip time: 51⁄2 hours). By car Cologne is easily reached from major German cities. in the 19th century). good for a single one-way fare within the inner city is 1. described under “Exploring Cologne. The city also has an excellent bus. and information on city attractions.m. The city’s early industrial plants were concentrated in Deutz.” later in this chapter. A day ticket. For train information and schedules. The office is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a. is located just a few steps from the cathedral. on the Rhine’s east bank. The ring road and a greenbelt in the southwest (the location of the university) girdle Neustadt. and Sunday 10 a. A Getting oriented The major sights of Cologne. (See the “Cologne” map in this chapter.bahn. The area across the river. where you find the cathedral and most of the major attractions.) The center of the Altstadt is the Innenstadt (Inner City).m.

Zeu g haus rgmauer Bu . n - 14 Alter Markt 11 lzg. i n er gu st Au Pipi nstr. Friesen.P rb e g th erl Ro en bach gra b ba Mü Waidmarkt str .25 mi 0. E hr e n s t r a s se Br e i t e T u ni 10 Brüc ke str . i 9 8 Hohe Strasse Hohenzollernbrücke 4 5 Am Ho f INNENSTADT 6 7 Frankenverft 2 DEUTZ S tr . 13 Heumarkt Fleischme ngerg. V ictori astrass tr.Ma Frie gnu sstra sse platz Hohenzol lernFriesenwall ring s t r. r- Tanzbrunnen n imi M ax t r . Mauri tiusste Neumarkt Gürzenichstr. St. Mindener s s t ras s e St ras s e Minoritenstrasse Fischmarkt rger Habsbug rin Ei fe Am Leystapel - Mau ritius wall ng l lner Neukö e Strass Hohe nstau in w fenri eg Holz- TelAviv -Str asse Severin strasse markt r lsbe be Ga gerstrasse l al lw .Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 369 Cologne 0 0 0. Alten Uf er Konrad . Agripp Ro on h str bac as se r. lks sse ga rin ll K a r tä use Eifelplatz n- wa g f rho D r eik ö n i g ens t r.-A p Richmodstr. Thieboldgasse 12 LeonhardTietz-Str.25 km Uf e M Turiner Wi Kai lhe ser lm -Ri ng Tunisstrasse Mohrenstrasse Am Gereonshof Gere onst r. ach nb h le Fitzengraben Ja hn auRhein strasse ch n e R h i strasse Severi nsbrück e en ass Am ais el- str en os ha M xem U llr Bus Ka Lo th rin Sa ge rS Lu rtä se chg ich Barbarossaplatz Sa lie rri Bu ng rg un str de as se rs tr. 3 3 Go Haupt. ch sse Vo tra tra NEUSTADT Eif rte n VOLKSGARTEN str. e Ur s u las Machab äerst ras se de n a ue Ha a ns rin g s cht Eigelstein b ay ac Strasse Domstrasse Dagobertst rasse R h i n e N r tr hs as se Ha g rin nsa nso re Ge wall Thürmchenswall 1 RHEINPARK tr.A Gl Erftstrasse ad Strenba ass ch e er ll tra wa Ein ns reo e G Kyotostr. Frankfurt Munich wall erin Sev sUbie rrin g els ACCOMMODATIONS Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Excelsior Hotel Ernst 3 Hotel Engelbertz 11 Hyatt Regency Köln 2 Senats Hotel 14 DINING Bräuhaus Sion 7 Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen 16 Früh am Dom 8 Hanse Stube 3 Sünner im Walfisch 15 Taku 3 ATTRACTIONS Dom 4 4711 Haus 10 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 9 Museum Ludwig 6 Kölner-Seilbahn 1 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 5 Schnütgen Museum 12 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 13 Church Information Post Office S-Bahn i Siegburger Str.gasslde bahnhof Kennedy-Ufer Ch rist str oph. ALTSTADT-NORD M a r zellens t r . erst Neue W ey We sse kt G r o n ma r ch e G ri e au Bl er. str. s en - Köln Messe e r n -Str Auf dem Berlich senstr. astr. 15 Sa 16 16 Deutzer Brüc ke Mittelstrasse Rudolfplatz SchilderCäcilien- gasse Nordt Süd Fahr Hahnenstr. iden ga sse us ALTSTADT-S ALTSTADT-SÜD V Sieb or den en b u rg en us er- rge ga s se ergLandsb e strass asse nstr Rose Hamburg Berlin en-e Bay ass str e bu GERMANY Cologne r- W . Johan nisstr.

better deal because it includes public transportation and free or reduced-price entry to museums and other attractions). To order a taxi. all with small bathrooms that have a tub or shower. call VRS at % 01803/504-030. The hotel has 40 rooms. validation machines are in stations and on buses. www. you climb up a curving. Rates: 64€–85€ ($80–$106) double without bathroom. Fischmarkt 1–3. Staying in Cologne Also see Chapter 22 for details on Cologne’s premier hotel. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt The two town houses that make up this hotel stand on a corner of a historic square. 369. and modern.50€ ($2) per kilometer thereafter. right on the Rhine in the busiest section of the Altstadt. the city’s “fifth season.370 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Celebrating carnival in Cologne Cologne’s Carnival. plus 1€ ($ U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt).” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events in Germany. For information about public transportation. The city buzzes with masked balls. The decoration throughout is light. or at the stations. the fare rises 1. . Excelsior Hotel Ernst ($$$$).de/stapelhaeuschen. The 31 rooms are fairly basic but comfortable and not lacking in a kind of old-fashioned charm. family-run hotel is in a central location close to everything in the Altstadt. call Taxi-Ruf at % 0221/19410. From the wine restaurant on the ground floor (see “Dining in Cologne. % 0221/272-7777.” later in this chapter). some rooms have beamed ceilings. wooden staircase (or take the elevator) to your room. Natives call this citywide celebration Fasteleer or Fastelovend. Hotel Engelbertz $ Altstadt This modest. Taxi meters start at 2. cheery. and general delirium. The season officially lasts from New Year’s Eve to Ash Wednesday. Purchase tickets from the automated machines (labeled Fahrscheine). See map p.25) if you hail a taxi from the street. Rates include buffet breakfast. from bus drivers. 90€–108€ ($112–$135) double with bathroom. tiled bathroom with shower. 50667 Köln. Be sure to validate your ticket. Fax: 0221/257-4232. Ten units come with a small.50€ ($3). parades.

Lohsestr. Frechen-Benzeirath K Airport Businesspark 7 se as M g len üh Fre e ch nR at u ha s nK he irc he K Steinstr. Nesselrodestr./Gürtel n e s n e e n Aachener Str. Parkgürtel Kinderkrankenhaus Margaretastr./ oh nk ein eid h Maarweg Gürtel Universitäts-str. horrem Sindorf 1 Weinsbergstr. Sülzburgstr. Os Au to th eim hn ba Ste e inw Köln Hbf g Po rze Bf Deutz / Messe r r llb llb De De .S-Bahn Langenfeld LEV-Rheindorf 12 Merkenich 1 Nievenheim 3 LEV-Küppersteg Schiebusch LEV Mitte Bayerwerk K-Stammheim Bergisch Gladbach K-Dellbrück K-Holweide Duckterath 13 4 Dormagen Dormagen Bayerwek 4 Merkenich Mitte Fordwerke Nord Fordwerke Mitte Fordwerke Süd Geestemünder Str. Holweide Vischering Str. Mauritluskirche Buir Merzenich K Frankfurter Str. Porz Porz-Wahn Spich Troisdorf Köln / Bonn Flughafen c Fre Siegburg He nn ef en nk Bla bu rg M e art n o Eit rf n ld rn h he nfe de ac rsc tte sb Au (Sieg) hla He Da Sc Ro Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Sankt Augustin-Mülldorf Sankt Augustin Markt Sankt Augustin Kloster Buschdorf 16 Severinsbrücke Drehbrücke Zülpicher Platz Poller Kirchweg Gleuser Str. Sülz Hermeskeller Platz Sülzgürtel 8 Porz Markt Gürtel Siegstr. Severinstr. rin r St chst är e ilit pen nba Dürener Str. Porz Steinstr. Gutenbergstr. Gilgaustr. 3 Schaffrathsgasse 4 16 Buchheim Herfer Str. Stegerwaldsiedlung Ebertplatz Subbelrather Str. Mollwitzstr. Wolffsohnstr. Berrenrather Str./Gürtel Liebigstr./ Ulreporte Lindenburg Ubierring Eifelwall Haus Vorst Westhoven Gürtel Weißhausstr. au nfo M be er Fr ch pe pp im rS e th rS ek nw en ba ück sthe he Ka ldae Ho ue ölne fra Kipp rank r öh Kalk Mer Fieh u e lk e m u B I L a H R F N F K K 1 Bensberg . K-Deutz Dom/Hbf Christophstr. u Ne Bocklemünd 17 Thielenbruch 18 19 Breslauer Platz / Hbf Koelnmesse Osthallen Wilhelm-Sollmann-Str. sp ka se rst ie rg str en au ide lle tr. tr rS th Ra - FrechenKönigsdorf Appeilhofplatz Heumarkt Suevenstr. Moltke-str. Am Emberg K-Worringen K-Chorweiler Nord 6 15 K-Chorweiler Chorweiler 7 K Volkhovener Weg 8 Niehl Mülheim Berliner Str. Gürtel Stüttgenhof 8 Poll Salmstr./ Piusstr. 9 Gottesweg Klettenbergpark Michaelshoven Rosenhügel Kalscheurer Weg 19 Sürth Efferen Zollstockgürtel Godorf Zündorf Kiebitzweg 7 Wesseling Nord Hürth-Hermülheim Zollstock Südfriedhof Wesseling Fischenich 12 Brühl-Vochem Wesseling Süd Brühl Nord Urfeld Brühl Mitte Brühl Süd Widdig Brühl-Badorf Uedorf Brühl-Schwadorf Hersel Walberberg Merten 18 Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn 371 Sankt Augustin Ort . Str. Wiener Florastr. Dasselstr. n Gürtel dio m Sta Hans-Böckler-Platz ru Oskar-Jägarie nt rf Bf West Friesenplatz Ze tr. Ensen Arnulfstr. Im Weidenbruch 16 Niehl Sebastianstr./ M e Eu Clar Gürtel ter l A Brahmsstr. Maria Himmelfahrt Str. 18 K-Longerich 9 Scheibenstr. Mommsen-str. Waldecker Str. Neumarkt Weyertal 15 Baumschulenweg Mersdorf Universität 6 Kölner Str. Leuchterstr. d pfa tst r. Takuplatz Platz K-Mülheim Zoo / Flora LenauAkazienweg K-Nippes Grünstr. 19 Heimersdorf Longericher Herforder Str. Str. weg rsdo nerg Str. K Hansaring K Ehrenfeld K-Müngersdorf / Technologiepark Venicer Str. K-Lövenich Kalk Post K Trimbornstr./ Rektor-Klein-Str. Pohligstr./Gürtel Leyendeckerstr. Str ter r fu nk f mp fad n Fra dho . Berliner Str. platz Escher Str./ Rodenkirchen Herthastr./Gürtel Slabystr. r g ma swe en ttg Rö Königsforst 9 Melaten Wüllner-str. Bayenhalgürtel Frechen Bahnhof Eifelplatz Chlodwigplatz Kloster Heinrich-Lübke-Ufer Euskirchener Str. Keupstr. 3 13 Mengenich Oflenhauerring 5 Ossendorf 15 e feld k üc M k üc rS s au up Ha tr. Westfriedhof Mülheim Iltisstr. Reichenspergerplatz Außere Kanalstr. W Ba M Ju Rh Bf Deutz / DeutzKölnarena Kalker Bad Deutzer Freiheit u He Weiden Schulstr./Bf Süd 17 Raiffeisenstr. Wichheimer Str. Bottensternstr. K-Blumenberg 5 Odenthaler Str. Amsterdamer Neusser Str./ Mediapark Körnerstr. Schönhauser Str. Zülpicher Str. Von-Sparr-Str. eg tr. Eifelstr. Düren g ift r. 17 Buchheim Frankfurter Str. Altonaer Platz 6 12 Longerich Friedhof Meerfeldstr. K-Buchforst Nußbaumerstr. / Gürtel K Geldernstr.

372 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. To eat and drink as the Kölner do. See map p. V. Rates: 100€ ($125) double. Bathrooms have deep tubs with showers. Rates: 160€–375€ ($200–$469) double. The staff can arrange baby-sitting. Himmel und Äd (apples and . DC. Hyatt Regency Köln $$ –$$$$ Deutz Located in Deutz. MC. a five-minute walk across the Rhine from the train later in this section). stylish hotel with its bright-yellow lobby is located in the heart of the Altstadt. and steam room. Rather. and spices and served on bread or a roll). Local dishes at these and other nongourmet restaurants generally include Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese). this modern full-service hotel features a dramatic lobby with a waterfall and a glamorous overall ambience. Rates include Rates: 120€–245€ ($150– $306).cologne. Senats Hotel $$ –$$$$ Altstadt This small. The 305 rooms are comfortably large and stylishly furnished. visit one of the city’s old tavernrestaurants (see listings for Früh am Dom and Bräuhaus Sion. 369. Obenmarspforten 1–3. 50667 Köln. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across the bridge).de. Fax: 0221/ 206-2200. MC. AE. 50679 Köln-Deutz. north on Hohe Strasse. Bathrooms are on the small side but vary according to the room. Kennedy-ufer 2A. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk across Roncalliplatz and south on Unter Goldschmied). Many have views of the Rhine and the cathedral on the other side. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Gürzenichstrasse. Tatar (finely minced raw beef mixed with egg yolk. % 0221/20620. See map p. onions. % 0221/257-8994. it’s a place for conversation and drinking. sauna. AE. V. The hotel has a nice ambience throughout. MC. 369. www.hotel-engelbertz.senats-hotel. generally over enormous portions of typical Rhineland fare in crowded restaurants that are gemütlich (cozy) rather than elegant. Cologne is not a city particularly known for its gourmet dining. Hämchen (cured pork knuckle cooked in vegetable broth). Unter Goldschmied 9–17. 369. Matjesfilet mit grünen Bohnen (pickled white herring served with green butter beans and potatoes). modern style. Dining in Cologne Although several highly rated restaurants have established themselves here in recent years. The Hyatt has fine restaurants and a fitness center with a pool. Rates include buffet breakfast. V. % 0180/523-1234 or 0221/ 828-1234. 50667 Köln. Kölsch Kaviar (smoked blood sausage served with raw onion rings). Fax: 0221/ 257-8924. The furnishings in the 59 rooms have a comfortable. www. Fax: 0221/828-1370. AE. and east on Obenmarspforten).

369. Bockwurst (sausage) with potato salad. delicious. % 0221/272-7777. The menu also includes vegetarian and pasta dishes. such as Riesenhämchen (boiled pigs’ knuckles) with sauerkraut. the cuisine also is very good. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north on Buttermarkt to Fishmarkt). a dry.m. called a Stangen.50€ ($2) for a small glass of Kölsch on tap. Open: Daily noon to 11:30 p. and north on Unter Taschenmacher). Fish main courses include roasted pikeperch on lentils with balsamic vinegar and salmon poached in Rhine wine. Fischmarkt 1–3. The main courses are traditional and filling Rhineland fare. you’ll probably like Kölsch (koehlsch). topfermented beer that’s brewed only in Cologne. called a Köbes. Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN This popular wine restaurant (and hotel. Kölsch: Cologne’s beer of choice Even if you don’t like beer. see “Staying in Cologne” earlier in this chapter) opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine. Open: Daily 11 a. MC. Unter Taschenmacher 5. marinated herring.or oven-roasted marinated beef) with an almond-raisin sauce.m. See map p. or stuffed mushrooms. AE. No credit cards. A Rhineland meat specialty is sauerbraten with almonds. the wood paneling a little smoky with time and frequent polishing. . Reservations recommended. Sion is the place. you can order a Kölsch from one of the blue-aproned waiters. Closed Dec 22–Jan 10.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 373 potatoes boiled and mashed together and served with fried blood sausage). raisins. thin glass. which they bring to your table in a special carrier called a Kölschkranz.m. Main courses: 9. and Speckpfannekuchen (pancakes fried in smoked bacon fat). Main courses 9€–16€ ($11–$20). U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 5-minute walk north along the Rhine promenade. Expect to pay about 1.50€–23€ ($12–$28). The Bräuhaus also has a few rooms upstairs that it rents out. Bräuhaus Sion $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN If you want a traditional local Bräuhaus where the beer is good. The waiters always serve the beer in a tall. 369. % 0221/257-8540. If you go to any of the taverns in town. a double with bathroom and breakfast goes for 60€ ($ 75). Kölsch has an alcohol content of about 3 percent (most other types of German beer have an alcohol content ranging from 4 percent to 6 percent). just a few minutes’ walk from the cathedral.–11 p. and potato dumplings. V. You may start with escargots. Although the wine is the main reason for coming (the local Rhine wines are that special). and the food portions inexpensive and generous. or sauerbraten (pot. See map p. west on Mühlengasse.

AE. Sat–Sun 11 a. to midnight. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. V. The restaurant serves many Rhineland specialties and dishes influenced by French cuisine. For dessert. how about strawberries with cappuccino-chocolate sauce? The wine list is exemplary. and hearty portions. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk west on Salzgasse).m. Other specialties include Sauerkrautsuppe (sauerkraut soup) and Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings). U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and across Roncalliplatz to Am Hof). to midnight. is a good choice for atmospheric dining. 369. with a different German specialty offered every day of the week. See map p. % 0221/257-7879. Salzgasse 13. on the ground floor. Am Hof 12–14. Main courses: 9. In summer. this tavern also has a beer garden.m. Fixed-price menus: 72€–79€ ($90–$99). Reservations recommended. See map p. Domplatz. it dates from 1626. You may try the pork cutlet with fried onions and crispy roast potatoes or the land-and-sea platter with roast beef and several kinds of fish. MC. The menu is in English. See map p. 369. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. Hanse Stube $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt FRENCH One of Cologne’s top gourmet restaurants. A step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered facade. elegant surroundings. . Fri 3 p. to midnight.m. on a narrow street set back from the Rhine. Hanse Stube offers excellent cuisine and service in quiet. V. is better). The menu changes daily but may include crayfish and avocado salad or grilled scallops for starters. % 0221/270-3402.m. A favorite dish is Hämchen. and 6:30–10:30 p. DC. You can eat in the upstairs or downstairs dining rooms (upstairs. to midnight. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). stuffed kohlrabi with truffle. Früh-Kölsch. Fixed-price business lunch: 30€–38€ ($37–$47). Open: Mon–Thurs 5 p. has a 1. Main courses: 14€–30€ ($17–$37). Tasty main courses include basil risotto. and leg of venison with a cognac-thyme sauce. DC.50€–19€ ($12–$24). a Cologne specialty of smoked pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and potato purée. 369. No credit cards. iced melon risotto with shrimp skewer.000-year-old brewing tradition. Reservations recommended.374 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Früh am Dom $$ Altstadt KÖLNER/GERMAN This Bräuhaus is the best all-around for atmosphere.m. Open: 8 a.m. AE. Sünner im Walfisch $ –$$ Altstadt GERMAN/FRENCH This Bräuhaus. Main courses: 9€–17€ ($11–$21). % 0221/261-3250. economy. MC. the tavern’s beer on tap.

the Asian restaurant in the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. The Cologne Welcome Card. the cathedral . which can be visited only on guided tours. and a series of statues made in the cathedral workshop between 1270 and 1290. the choir contains original. The famous Three Kings windows in the clerestory (the area above the nave) were installed in the early 14th century. Overwhelming is the simplest way to describe it. MC. After a day of sightseeing. its twin filigreed spires rising to a height of 157m (515 ft. and 6–10 p. Exploring Cologne You find the cathedral and all the major museums in the Innenstadt. Reservations recommended for dinner. Upon completion. The giant reliquary is a masterpiece of goldsmith work dating from the end of the 12th century. AE. available from the tourist office. is good for travel on all forms of public transportation and gets you into most museums for free or at a reduced cost. housed in a glass case at the end of the choir. seared monkfish with green mango salad. % 0221/270-3910. a beef filet salad. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 2-minute walk west on Trankgasse). In addition to some magnificent Renaissance-era stained-glass windows in the north aisle. the roughly half-square-mile area of the original Roman colony. is the cathedral’s major treasure. Fixed-price dinner menus: 49€–69€ ($61–$86). The food is good. is a serenely comfortable spot to enjoy sea-fresh sushi and sashimi. Dom (Cathedral) Considering how much time passed during the building of this gigantic edifice. More than 600 years elapsed from the laying of the cornerstone in 1248 to the placement of the last finial (a decorative element) on the south tower in 1880. 369. is the most important part of the cathedral. round off your visit with an evening stroll along the Rhine promenade in Deutz. In the Excelsior Hotel Ernst.m. and a one-day family/group card good for two adults and two children or three adults costs 18€ ($22). The Dreikönigschrein (Shrine of the Three Magi). the service highly professional. a twoday card costs 14€ ($17). the largest cathedral in northern Europe. the Cologne cathedral was the tallest building in the world. DC. Open: Daily noon to 2:30 p. or more ambitious dishes such as sweet-and-sour prawn soup with baked pineapple. or curry with beef filet. V. See map p. A one-day card costs 9€ ($11).). Main courses: 23€–37€ ($29–$46). The choir. screen paintings. Consecrated in 1322. Domplatz.m. it’s a wonder that the Gothic facade is stylistically coherent. The restaurant’s striking design includes a serpentine fish tank built into the floor. richly carved oak stalls.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Taku $$$ –$$$$ Altstadt JAPANESE/ASIAN 375 Taku.

10) children and students. On the ground floor and mezzanine. Open: Apr–Oct daily 10 a. treasury and tower combined 5€ ($6. and the American designer Charles Eames. the guided tours last one hour.20€ ($5. In operation since 1957. Sun 2 and 3:30 p.50€ ($6. % 0221/221-23860. Tours: English-language tours Mon–Sat 11 a. Give yourself about an hour to see everything.m. % 0221/547-4184. See map p. Flemish in the precision of its execution. Riehler Strasse 180. See map p.25) adults.–5 p.50) children and students.m. You get a great view of the cathedral and the river traffic along the Rhine. Domkloster.60€ ($3. If. include rooms and furniture by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.m. created around 1445.25) children and students.m. Peter) for an inspiring view of the city and the Rhine. and 12:30.m. among others.50) adults. See map p. An der Rechtsschule.. The Art Nouveau room is particularly impressive.m. U-Bahn: Zoo/Flora (then a 2-minute walk south to the departure point on the west side of the river). Open: Cathedral daily 6 a. The Gero Cross. tower daily 9 a. you’re in reasonably good shape.m. tower alone 2€ ($2. the first and only cable-car system in Europe designed to span a major river. You can make a circuit of the interior in about half an hour. 3€ ($3. and you aren’t missing much if you skip it.376 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany really has only two other must-see treasures. 2. On the south side of the choir is Stephan Lochner’s altarpiece. . U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (you see the cathedral as you come out of the train station). (winter until dusk). Kölner Seilbahn (Cologne Cable Car) You get the best panoramic view of the city of Cologne by taking the Kölner Seilbahn. German architect Mies van der Rohe. 2€ ($2. The cathedral’s Schatzkammer (Treasury) is rather disappointing.90) adults.–6 p.m.25) adults.m.m.–7:30 p.. tour cost: 4€ ($5) adults. Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) The treasures on display in this museum include furniture. The painting is a masterpiece of the Cologne school — Italian in format. Adoration of the Magi.75) children. home décor. 2.. Admission: Round-trip ticket 5. 369. Admission: Cathedral free.25) children 6–12.50€ ($3. treasury daily 10 a.m. exclusively from the 20th century. is a rare monumental sculpture carved in Cologne in the late tenth century and reputedly the oldest-existing large-scale crucifix in the Western world. hanging in a chapel on the north side of the choir. the enclosed gondolas cross the river beside the Zoobrücke (Zoo Bridge) between the Rheinpark in Deutz and the zoo. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the Dom on Unter Fettenhenn to An der Rechtsschule). the exhibits.–5 p.m. you can climb the 509 stairs of the 14th-century south tower (entry through the Portal of St. on the other hand. 1€ ($1. % 0221/9258-4730. Open: Tues–Sun 11 a. 369. 369. 2. The trip takes about 15 minutes each way. and 3:30 p.– 6 p. and handicrafts from the Middle Ages to the present day. Admission: 4.m.

it is the largest antique tomb ever found north of the Alps. The Agfa-Foto-Historama. 369. and so on. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a. On the lowest level. trade and industry.C.50€ ($9. look at the section of the Roman North Gate preserved on Domplatz in front of the cathedral. on the right side of the museum is Hafenstrasse. which extols the joys of good living. is inextricably bound with the history of Rome — a legacy that is documented in this fascinating museum.D. Portions of an original Roman wall still stand beneath Domplatz in the underground parking lot. opened in 1986. On the second floor. Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) Cologne’s history. is devoted to the history of photography. 5. you find an ancient black-andwhite mosaic floor covered with swastikas. constructed around A. and the fabric of the city today. and was known in Latin as the crux gamata. The area became a military garrison with an imperial shrine and eventually was granted rights as a Roman city called Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (CCAA) in A. Centuries before the symbol became ominously identified with the atrocities of the Third Reich. The exhibits explore themes or types: religious life. produced in a Rhineland workshop in the third century and discovered in 1941 by workers digging an air-raid shelter. Towering over the mosaic. Museum Ludwig This museum.m. 50. Admission: 7. The Roman-Germanic Museum was built around the magnificent Dionysius mosaic. % 0221/221-22379. when the Roman legions were recalled from the Rhine frontier.m. more if you love modern art. You need at least an hour to browse through the entire museum. 401. the swastika — probably Indian in origin — was a symbol of good luck and happiness.–6 p.. devoted to the daily life of the Romans. which once ran down to the Roman harbor.50€ ($7) children and students.D. Exhibits represent nearly every major artist and art movement of the 20th century. a street paved with its original stones.50) adults. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 5-minute walk south past the cathedral and east on Roncalliplatz). Before you enter. is the tomb of Lucius Poblicius. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. a museum within the museum. 40 for a Roman officer.D. Cologne’s Roman period lasted until A. dedicated to 20th-century and contemporary art. you can see a superlative collection of Roman glassware and a world-renowned collection of Roman jewelry. . See map p. Give yourself at least an hour. The museum covers the period that extends from the Stone Age to the period of Charlemagne (9th century).Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 377 The Roman city of Colonia By 50 B. Julius Caesar had extended the borders of the Roman Empire as far as the Rhine and established an alliance with the Germanic Ubii tribe on the site of presentday Cologne. the cult of the dead.

Opened in 1861. 369. the museum moved to a new building designed by Cologne architect Oswald Mathias Ungers. around the back. The Renaissance section includes works by Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach. among scores of others. Open: Tues–Fri 10 a. . Martinstrasse 39. Give yourself about two hours if you want to browse through all the galleries. Auguste Renoir.45€ ($8) adults. Admission: 5. % 0221/221-22310. Ursula in particular..– 6 p. Cäcilienstrasse 29. The relics. Gustave Courbet. the museum boasts a rich collection of 19th-century paintings. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof (then a 3-minute walk south past the cathedral to Roncalliplatz).95€ ($5) children. In addition to important French and Spanish works.” Outside. Admission: 3.–5 p.m. Here you find Rubens’s Self-Portrait Amidst the Circle of Friends from Mantua and an enigmatic self-portrait by Rembrandt. splendid sampling of sacred art from the early Middle Ages to the baroque.25) adults.m. the museum also is one of Germany’s oldest. Sat–Sun 11 a. which becomes Cäcilienstrasse).m. a skeleton has been spray-painted on the walled-in western portal of the church.30€ ($4) students and children. 369.. A memorable collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings holds pride of place on the second floor. Edvard Munch. Try not to miss this small.50) children. Sat–Sun 11 a. On the first floor.378 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany See map p. 3.–5 p.m. with major pieces by the German Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich. Many of the paintings and altarpieces depict legends from the lives of martyred saints who became identified with the “Holy Cologne” of the Middle Ages — St. reliquaries.m.m. Admission: 6. The new museum nicely shows off the art but somehow feels like an office building from the 1950s. Open: Tues 10 a.m. and sculpture on display give you an idea of the artistic blessings bestowed upon “Holy Cologne. In 2000.m.m. Wallraf-Richartz Museum The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is one of the country’s greatest repositories of art from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century.–8 p.m. Wed–Fri 10 a. Cäcilien (St.80€ ($7. Called simply Tod (Death). 369.. % 0221/221-22304. Schnütgen Museum The Romanesque church of St. Open: Tues–Sun 10 a.90€ ($2. this oddly engaging work is by the Zurich graffiti artist Harald Nägele.m. crucifixes. 3.–5 p.–6 p. 1. Cecilia.m. Roncalliplatz 4. you find an outstanding collection of paintings by the medieval Cologne school (most done between 1330 and 1550). See map p. patron saint of music) houses one of Cologne’s finest art collections.20€ ($4) adults. U-Bahn: Heumarkt (then a 3-minute walk north on Unter Käster to Martinstrasse). U-Bahn: Neumarkt (then a 5-minute walk west on Pipinstrasse. % 0221/221-21119. and Vincent van Gogh. See map p.

and French. carries a huge selection of umbrellas. Shopping in Cologne The first Füssgänger (pedestrians-only) shopping zones in Germany originated in Cologne and present a seemingly endless and interconnected conglomeration of shops and shopping arcades. snack shops.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 379 Cologne from Cologne: No. Schildergasse is where you find international men’s fashions. Roncalliplatz 4. You can buy 4711 cologne in all sizes and shapes. fruit sellers. Discovering nightlife in Cologne One of Germany’s major cultural centers. 4711. . and the big department stores. sells unusually decorated and comfortable felt slippers and those enormous Überpantoffeln you slip over your shoes and slide around in when touring German palaces. as soap. The Mühlens family. next to the cathedral (% 0221/2801. 4711 Haus. another early producer of Kölnisch Wasser. Cologne offers a variety of fine arts and nightlife options. fine jewelry.” or simply “cologne. Breite Strasse 93. stocks a large selection of art postcards and greeting cards. pick up a copy of Monats Vorschau (1. you find all the major international designer-clothing boutiques. To find out what’s going on in the city.koelnticket. You can purchase tickets at a venue’s box office (Kasse) or at Köln MusikTicket. organ grinders. the main north–south street in Roman times. stores selling silver. fine leather bags and purses. Glockengasse 4711 (% 0221/925-0450. jammed every day except Sunday with shoppers. www. and even as premoistened towelettes. Three specialty shops worth knowing about: Schirmbusch. also lived and worked in this house at no. German.” but Echt Kölnisch Wasser (the original eau de Cologne) remains the official designation of origin for the distinctive toilet waters created in the city of Cologne. and perfumeries. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). 4711 Any kind of toilet water is now called “eau de Cologne. and Filz Gnoss. Hohe Strasse. sells the orange-and-lavender-scented water first developed in Cologne in 1709 by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina. and endless stores. and Italian designer shoes. The street number eventually became the trademark name for their product. Apostelnstrasse 21 (% 0221/257-0108). On Hohe Strasse and its surrounding U-Bahn: Neumarkt). musicians. is now Cologne’s busiest commercial drag.50€/$2) at newsstands).25). Walter König’s Postkartenlade. Ehrenstrasse 104. The smallest bottle costs about 5€ ($6.

open Sunday to Thursday from 9 a. is a small and intimate jazz and piano bar with live music every night beginning around 8 p.m. Stephansstrasse 4 (% 0221/238-730.m. Zulpicher Strasse 10 (% 0221/170-2764. Live bands and DJs play for dancers at MTC.m. with a cover of 4€ to 10€ ($5–$13). is a combination disco–concert hall housed within a former electrical power plant.. The hall also presents pop and jazz programs. Gay and lesbian bars Chains. Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal. to 3 a. Schanzenstrasse 28 (% 0221/962-790. Alter Markt 50–52 (% 0221/258-2132.m. to 2 or 3 a. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). Ticket prices vary. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/8400. and .m.koelner-philharmonie. when the music begins at 3:30 p. Friday and Saturday from 9 a.buehnenkoeln. a good gay bar for men and women. Oper der Stadt Köln (Cologne Opera).de.m. is best on Sunday. completed in the late 1980s. is the Rhineland’s leading opera house. Jazz clubs Klimperkasten (also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon).m. Buttermarkt 37 (% 0221/257-7931. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Apostelnstrasse 11 (% 0221/254-433. to 1 a. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). www. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). a gay leather bar in the Marienplatz area. is the home of two fine orchestras: the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra).m. The most sophisticated rendezvous for gays and lesbians in Cologne is Gloria. is the site of three theaters. is open from 10 p. The bar is open daily from noon to midnight during the week and from 11 a. U-Bahn: Zulpicherplatz).m. Tickets range from 11€ to 100€ ($14–$125).m. Dance clubs E-Werk. to 1 a. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1 (% 0221/2801.m.m. Offenbachplatz (% 0221/22128400. each with its own performances and schedules. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). is near Marienplatz at Pipinstrasse 7 (% 0221/258-1414.m. E-Werk is open every Friday and Saturday night at 10 p. The open from 10 p. U-Bahn: Neumarkt). www. anywhere from 8€ to 80€ ($10–$100). according to the event. U-Bahn: Keupstrasse). U-Bahn: Heumarkt). to 3 a. Dance programs also take place here. U-Bahn: Heumarkt).380 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Performing arts The Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. Recorded music alternates with live acts. on the weekend. Quo Vadis Pub.

Purchase.m. with the legendary Lorelei rock and many hilltop castles. a 110-year-old tavern. The Mosel Valley: Great Wines. The tavern is open daily from 10 a.m. A daily Nachmittags (afternoon) cruise with Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) leaves at 3:30 p. you can enjoy a trip on the river aboard one of the many local boats.m. Prerecorded commentary in English plays on both of these sightseeing cruises.50). The club is also open for live jazz Monday to Saturday from 7 p. and 9:45 a.m. the cost is 9. noon. The club doesn’t charge a 2500 Westchester Ave.m. Even if you don’t have time for a long Rhine cruise. and 6 p..m. If you want to see the most scenic stretch of the Rhine. or visit the company’s Web site at The round-trip cost is 46€ ($57). Winding through the steep slopes of the Eifel and . For more information on Rhine River cruises.80€ ($8. 2 p. represented in North America by JFO Cruise Service.m. is a scenic winegrowing region like the nearby Rheingau (see the “Sampling the wines of Rheingau” sidebar in this chapter). The tour departs daily at 10:30 a.. contact Viking KD River Cruises of Europe. serves its Kölsch brand of beer. southwest of Cologne. Taverns Päffgen Bräuhaus. www. The cost is 6.m. offers boat tours of the Rhine from Cologne. rivercruises. and returning at 7:20 p. NY 10577 (% 800/346-6525). take one of KD’s daylong cruises between Mainz and Koblenz. The KD ticket booth and boarding point is right on the river. KD (Köln–Düsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt).m. departing Mainz daily at 8:45 a. and 8:20 p.m. U-Bahn: Heumarkt). along with regional cuisine. and returns at 5:45 p.80€ ($12).m. to midnight.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 381 Cruises along the Rhine Cologne is a major embarkation point for Rhine cruises.m. Beautiful Scenery The Mosel Valley. lasts until 1 a.m. also serves the local beer. a short walk south from the cathedral.. Kölsch. Friesenstrasse 64–66 (% 0221/135-461.k-d. The one-hour Panorama Rundfahrt (round-trip) is a pleasant way to see the stretch of Rhine immediately around Cologne. Seating is available indoors and out. with German dishes. The tavern is open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to midnight. to 2 a. Frankenwerft 15 (% 0221/208-8318. U-Bahn: Friesenplatz). Altstadt Päffgen. Heumarkt 62 (% 0221/257-7765.

m. Cochem is a popular spot for wine tastings and festivals. to 6 p.m. You can also reach Cochem by train from either of those cities.. a boat operated by KD (% 0221/20881.50€ ($5. If you’re driving through the Mosel Valley. is open November through March. celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths and a street fair. Its beautiful scenery. The tourist information office.m.m. and arrive in Cochem at 3 p. From there. to 5 p. to noon. and Friday 9 a. and riverside towns with cobbled streets and halftimbered houses make the Mosel Valley a prime area for exploration. medieval castles. fine wine.m. 51km (32 miles) southwest of Koblenz. Admission is 4. and Sunday in July and August from 9 a. the prettier A53 runs alongside the Mosel between Zell and Schweich. Mosel-Wein-Woche (Mosel Wine Week). www. Cochem is your best choice for an overnight stopover between Koblenz and Trier.m. www. a full 10 percent of the national total. The A49 Autobahn runs between Koblenz and Trier. The castle. a medieval riverside town surrounded by vineyards.m. April through the easiest way is to take a train to Koblenz. Monday through Friday 9 a. (See “The Mosel Valley” map in this chapter.m. to 6 p.50€ ($3) for children and students.m. Touring the valley by boat or car If you’re headquartering in Cologne and want to enjoy a boat cruise down the Mosel River. Endertplatz 1 (% 0267/60040. and 2 to 5 p.) The valley encompasses thousands of acres of vineyards.m. where the waters flow into the Rhine. to 5 p.50) for adults and 2. The similar Weinfest takes place the last weekend of August. Monday through Thursday 9 a. the Mosel Valley follows the course of the Mosel River (spelled Moselle in English) for more than 160km (100 miles) between Trier and Koblenz.m. From late April to late October. the most famous and photographed sight along the Mosel River..m.382 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Hunsruck hills in the German state of Rheinland-Palatinate.m. For sails down the Mosel to Cochem. Cochem’s biggest attraction is Reichsburg Cochem (% 02671/255). Stopping in Cochem About halfway down the Mosel River from Koblenz is Cochem. boats depart daily from Koblenz at 9:45 a. contact the Cochem tourist information office. The office also is open Saturday from May through August from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.cochem. begins the first week of June. is open daily mid-March to November 9 a.m.k-d. . The round-trip fare is 22€ ($28). a restored 11th-century castle at the top of the hill behind the town. arriving in Koblenz at 8 p. A return boat departs at 3:40 p. Roman ruins.

For a fine meal.Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine 383 The Mosel Valley A61 Nürburg E RM Cologne 410 E31 AN Y Mendig Mayen Koblenz A48 E44 Berlin A1 G Area of Detail Gerolstein 410 Kelburg Daun A48 E44 Lahnstein Kaiseresch Burg Eltz Alken 49 Boppard Ulmen 257 Mosel Moselkern 327 A61 Cochem A1 49 Meisburg Beilstein Senheim Bullay E31 Alf Marienburg A60 53 Wittlich Bitburg 51 Zell Traben-Trarbach Simmern M osel Bernkastel-Kues 269 421 Gemünden XEM– EM URG RG E44 327 Morbach 269 0 10 mi Kirn 0 10 km 41 N Trier A1 Idar-Oberstein 270 41 420 Both a hotel and a wine restaurant. originally built in 1332. Endertstrasse 1 (% 02671/8955). is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along the Mosel. The half-timbered structure. MasterCard. fax: 02671/4202). Main courses range from 15€ to 25€ ($19–$31). Brückenstrasse 3.m. . Try the trademark dish of fresh trout stuffed with herbs. Diners Club. 1.6km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem. The restaurant is open daily from noon to 2 p. drive to Enterttal. and kept warm at your table with a hot stone. 56812 Cochem (% 02671/7059. A few of the rooms have four-poster beds.m. baked. all contain shower-tub combinations. added a modern wing and became a hotel in 1960. buffet breakfast included. and dine at Weissmühle im Enterttal. All major credit cards are accepted. and Visa are accepted. and 6 to 9 p. A creaking wooden staircase (you can also take the elevator) leads to most of the 35 rooms. Rack rates range from 77€ to 115€ ($96–$144) for a double. Alte Thorschenke.

If you’re driving. is like a northern extension of Italy. traditions. you sail through this scenic winegrowing region. This part of the Rhineland not only turns out fine wines but has been fundamentally formed by the culture of wine. with its almond. The Rheingau wine grapes produce a delicately fruity wine with a full aroma. and other fruit trees and its sheltered sunny slopes covered with vineyards. conditions the Romans recognized as perfect for grape-growing. the Rheingau’s unofficial capital. on the river’s northern bank. fig. . cherry. and festivals. 367) follows a 45km (27-mile) stretch of the Rhine west of Wiesbaden to the attractive Rhine-side town of Bingen. the B42 highway runs beside the river between Boppard and Eltville. The wind-sheltered southern slopes of the Taunus range. The Rheingau wine district (see “The Rhineland” map p. Vineyards have produced wine here since Roman times. get plenty of sunshine and comparatively little rain. and wine fans consider Rheingau Rieslings to be among the best white wines made anywhere. Eighty percent of this wine comes from the Riesling grape. If you take a Rhine cruise between Koblenz and Mainz (see the “Cruises along the Rhine” sidebar in this chapter). as reflected in its economy.384 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Sampling the wines of Rheingau The Rhine Valley from Koblenz south to Alsace.

cosmopolitan city. a fact that helps account for all those designer skyscrapers (more than in any other German city. and more L ocated on the River Main. (See the “Frankfurt am Main” map in this chapter. Frankfurt is the financial center not only of Germany but also of the entire European Union (EU). and including the tallest building in Europe). Nearly 40. The huge symbol that stands on Willy-Brandt-Platz in front of the new opera house can be regarded as the city’s logo. cabaret. nearly 450 banks maintained headquarters here. a rich cultural life. a small portion of Frankfurt’s Altstadt (Old Town) was lovingly rebuilt. the most important meeting place in the world for the acquisition and sale of book rights and translations. Millions of visitors descend on the city during its trade shows in spring and autumn. A very strong American presence exists in this city on the Main. Leveled during Allied bombing raids in World War II (WWII). Because the Frankfurt airport serves as the country’s main international hub. and a lively nightlife. Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city. and sometimes called “Mainhattan” because of its skyscraper-studded skyline. The best known is the International Book Fair. Today. Germany’s central bank. many travelers get their first introduction to Germany in this city. and the Central Bank of the EU. great shopping. Besides being a muchvisited business center. At last count. home of the Bundesbank. .000 American soldiers were stationed in Frankfurt until 1990. Frankfurt definitely focuses on business. the city is a tourist destination with fine museums and art collections. But Frankfurt is first and foremost a modern.) Frankfurt has been a major banking city since the Rothschilds opened their first bank here more than 200 years ago.Chapter 20 Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros In This Chapter ᮣ Arriving in Frankfurt ᮣ Getting around the city ᮣ Finding the best hotels and restaurants ᮣ Strolling through the Altstadt ᮣ Discovering Apfelwein.

str nu Tau tr. berge st angg Wo l f Gr ün ebu rg w eg urgstr. ke st r a l l ee ss e ra Grüneburgweg Siesn Feld bur gstr. 4 r. ayer st Stau . Zeil TAUNUSANLANGE U J 7 u n g hof An der Hauptwache Ne ue MESSE W Güterplatz Goetheplatz 8 9 9 Str./ADICKESALLEE Berlin M i q u e l a ll e e U A di e c k e s A l le ene Eyss Ha nsa GERMANY ckst Frankfurt am Main Munich C ro n ste tten str. Senck Linde B o c k e nh e i m er lsso nde Me dts tr. nstr. HAUPTWACHE hst oc U Börse Gr. Ma inz Str.386 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Frankfurt am Main Hamburg MIQ. s se All ee U Mique l e alle er S tra GRÜNEBURG PARK Holzh rass e ausen str. ers Str. R r. BH ocke nhe imer str. U Kais er chen Mun tr. Lei Fa pzi üc lk B re m g er e anlag Schumannstr. Beethove nstr. ss Willy-BrandtPlatz U THEATERPLATZ i s tr. we ize rP l. Ar n HAUPTBAHNHOF in Ma ze a rL nd . Wolfg angst tra sse U Ba us GRÜNEBURGWEG 1 WESTEND Bock enh ei m er L and 3 str a ss e r. ner erli bach B r au 10 12 11 es ten ds tra sse er Un te r ma inb r. University enberg nstr. U 5 6 2 Guiollett str. Freidb nFurste rstr. Fri ed se ras Sc 14 e U en sb rü ck SCHWEIZERPLATZ . r. fenstr Gärtnerweg ESCHENHEIMER TOR Rothschild’s Rothschild Park Alte Oper An l . ka i ai n MUSEUMSUFER Sch s Leu ch ne r te 17 16 Un rm M ha GUTLEUTVIERTEL t t s leu ai nk ai um 15 n ai B 0 0 1/8 mile 125 meters 13 U N Ke i Information S-Bahn U-Bahn Station Güterbahnhof Oppenheim nn ed ya lle e Gu t er Fran z St HOLZHAUSENSTRASSE r.

str Bethmann’s Bethmann Park Se Fr OSTEND all ee rg hm er idts t r. ann OSTHAFEN ATTRACTIONS Deutsch herr nufe Main r fs tra G erb ermühl str.-Miller Str. a W S Gr./ ALTE GASSE U ie ile db r erg 25 stra er sse KONSTABLERWACHE 24 RathenauU Zeil platz Am T ie Lan r ga A LT S TA D T RÖMER 21 U B a tto n n stra sse se s t ra s 19 20 22 Ma i n K a i EisernerSteg ckWe r k t ma 26 Schöne Au ssicht 23 Oberm 18 Sach s e n h ä u s e r U fer olb rK lte tr. Zoo rte n Rö db urg w.Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros 387 Nib U ADICKES/ NIBELUNGENALLE elun E c k enh ei m gen Alle e Ha NORDEND U Neuh ofstr. Heinrich-HoffmanMuseum 3 Historisches Museum 10 Kaiserdom 20 Liebieghaus 14 Main Tower 7 Museum für Angewandte Kunst 18 Museum für Moderne Kunst 21 Römer and Römerberg 22 Städelsches Kunstinstitut/ Städtische Galerie 15 Struwwelpeter-Museum 19 Os t L a n d s t r a ss e U Hö he MARIANPLATZ W ald sc n Ha rg A lle e bs bu rg er Landwehr Al W Ha bs bu r he ac e sb Alle e t it lee Bu rg . ch ild Al GLAUBERGSTRASSE lee rg L a n d strasse al ee Se b ck ac he BORNHEIM MITTE U rs be l Saa HÖHENSTRASSE U Bornheimer Gü BORNHEIM lbu he nt d b e rger Bu s rg tr. ss e DINING eg Exedra 25 Haus Wertheym 12 Konditoriei Hollhorst 11 Main Tower Restaurant & Bar 7 Restaurant Français 9 Tiger Restaurant. as Ro ths rL d an str as se ACCOMMODATIONS M Der Messe 2 An Hilton Frankfurt 5 Hotel am Dom 26 Hotel Robert Mayer 1 Hotelschiff Peter Schlott 13 str er rg Bu Mozart 4 Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof 9 se rtm an -Ib ac hs tr. Obermainkai nem str. p k ar str as se Anla Floberb rücke ge erm Ob n a n lage ds t ainbr. Palastbar. and Tiger-Bistrot 24 Weinhaus Brückenkeller 23 Deutsches Architektur Museum 16 Deutsches Filmmuseum 17 Eschenheimer Tor 6 Eschenheimer Turm 6 Goethe-Haus S tralenberge 8 r str. Parad iesga Se eh o sse de ls w . Rit te r gasse SACHSENHAUSEN Da rm s t ä d ter Landstrass e W en ai i Oste ndst rasse ra sse n So Oskar-v. Fri e MUSTERSCHULE U E sc he n m hei er VILBELER S.

Newark. frankfurt-airport. Taking the train into the city The simplest method for getting into the city from the airport is by train. Level 0 (% 069/691-844). The long-distance AIRail Terminal links the airport to cities throughout Germany and neighbori