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#P551 - Amerias Pride

Fretwork Clock inspired by 18th century Victorian elegance. 28H x 16W. Requires a 3 1/2 clock insert.

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES


The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:

USING THE PATTERNS


Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Pattern overlap line Craft knife Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.

Frame & Back


Stock: 1/8 - 1/4, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Clear tape

Cut on dashed line for Back

Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Pattern overlap line

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE


Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES


When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS


Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Top Assembly

N #P551 - Americas Pride Fretwork Clock Instructions


1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. Assemble by first attaching the sides to the Front and Back. Next attach the Front and Side Overlays. Then attach the Bottom Floor and the Spacer. 5. Now attach the Window Panels to the Front Panel, along with the remaining Spacer. Then attach the Back Panel. Lower this assembly over the Spacer on the Bottom Floor and secure in place. Then attach the Top Floor Spacer into position, and attach the Top Floor to the Front & Back Panel assembly. Now, assemble the Top Windows to the Clock Panel Front. Carefully insert the Side and Front Fence tabs into position, and then attach the Clock Panel Back. Lower this assembly over the Top Floor Spacer and secure in place. Next, attach the Top Roofs and Crest, and the Clock Overlays.

I I P M J J

12 9 3 6

L Q H K

R #P551 - Americas Pride Fretwork Clock

GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

Bottom Assembly R

F F

G F

B A B

C D

#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P551 - Americas Pride Fretwork Clock Description Base Front & Back Side Front Overlay Side Overlay Bottom Floor Front & Back Panel Window Panel Top Floor Clock Panel Front & Back Top Window Side Fence Front Fence Clock Overlay Crest Top Window Overlay Top Roof Top Floor Spacer Spacer Bottom Window Overlay Base Front & Back (A)
Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each. Right pattern piece.

Item Qty A 1 each B 2 C 1 D 2 E 1 F 2 G 2 H 1 1 each I J 2 K 2 L 1 M 2 N 1 O 2 P 2 Q 1 R 2 S 2

Size 1/4T x 5W x 15L 1/4T x 5W x 7 1/2L 1/8T x 3 1/8W x 15 1/4L 1/8T x 3 1/8W x 8L 3/8T x 8 3/4W x 16 1/2L 1/4T x 9 1/2W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 7 1/2W x 9 1/2L 3/8T x 6 1/2W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 10 1/2W x 13L 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 7 3/8L 1/8T x 2W x 3 1/2L 1/8T x 2W x 8 1/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 3 3/4W x 7 1/2L 1/4T x 9 1/2W x 15 1/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 2W x 3 3/4L 1/4T x 4 7/8W x 7 1/4L 1/4T x 2 1/2W x 7L 1/4T x 3 13/16W x 7L 1/16 - 1/8T x 3 5/16W x 7 1/2L

#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side (B)

Pattern overlap line

Side (B)

#P551 Pattern overlap line Small dashed lines indicate placement of Front Overlay (C) on Base Front only.

Base Front & Back (A)

Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each. Left pattern piece.

Use glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P551

Side (B)

Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Small dashed line indicates placement of Side Overlay (D)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front Overlay (C)


Stock: 1/8 Right pattern piece.

Side Overlay (D) Side (B)

Front Overlay (C)


Stock: 1/8 Left pattern piece.

Side (B) Side Overlay (D) Pattern overlap line

#P551 Use glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P551

Side Overlay (D)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2. Attach with glue.

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Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Front & Back Panel (F)


Stock: 1/4, 1/4 cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Slot for Window (G).

#P551

Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front & Back Panel (F)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Right pattern piece. Note: Door panel can be cut as an overlay with contrasting woods, or predrill for hinges before sawing out door from Panel (F). Omit cut-out for door panel on Back (F) Pattern overlap line #P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Back

Pattern overlap line

Bottom Floor (E)


Stock: 3/8 Cut on solid outside line. Left pattern piece.

Bottom Window (G) Side Overlay (D) Side (B) Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. #P551

Attach Spacer (R) here with glue and finishing nails.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Note: dashed lines indicate placement of Back (A) and Back Panel (F).

Bottom Floor (E)


Stock: 3/8 Cut on solid outside line. Middle pattern piece.

Note: Dashed lines for (F) & (G) indicate placement on top of Floor (E).

Front & Back Door Panel (F)

Front (A) Front Overlay (C) Front

#P551

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Bottom Window (G)

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Bottom Floor (E)


Stock: 3/8 Cut on solid outside line. Right pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Bottom Window (G)

#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side (B) Side Overlay (D)

Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Window Panel (G)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Slot for Front Panel (F).

Small dashed line indicates placement of Bottom Window Overlay (S). Attach with glue or silicone. Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side Fence (K)

Top Window (J)

#P551 Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. Clock Panel Back (I)

Top Floor (H)


Stock: 3/8, cut 1 Left pattern piece.

Attach Top Floo Spacer (Q) here with glue and finishing nails.

Clock Panel Fron (I)

Pattern overlap line

Front Fence (L)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front

Stock: 3/8, cut 1 Right pattern piece. Side Fence (K) Attach Top Floor Spacer (Q) here with glue and finishing nails. Pattern overlap line

Top Floor (H)

p To

o Ro

f(

P)

Clock Panel Front & Back (I)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Top pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

#P551

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front

35

Top Window (J)

Pattern overlap line

Clock Panel Front & Back (I)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Bottom left pattern piece. Small dashed lines indicate placement of Overlay (M).

Slot for Window (J).

Bore a hole in the Front only to insert the clock of your choice. Be sure of the size opening you need as not all clocks require the same size opening. Pattern overlap line

Cut slot for Side Fence (K).

#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Clock Panel Front & Back (I)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Bottom Right Pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line #P551


The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Top Window (J)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Slot for Clock Panel Front (I).

Small dashed line indicates placement of Top Window Overlay (O). Attach with glue or silicone. Cut slot for Front Fence (L) Attach to Top Floor Spacer (Q) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Side Fence (K)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2

#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Clock Overlay (M)


Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2

Front Fence (L)

Stock: 1/8

#P551

Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2

Top Window Overlay (O)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Crest (N)
Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.

Attach to Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Crest (N)
Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

#P551

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Attach Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Top Roof (P)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Attach Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Roof Front

Cut at 35

Cut at 35

Top Floor Spacer (Q)


Stock 1/4 Attach to top of Top Floor (H) with glue and finishing nails.

#P551
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Spacer (R)
Stock 1/4 Attach to top of Bottom Floor (E) with glue and finishing nails.

Bottom Window Overlay (S)


#P551

Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P568- Birmingham Pendulum Clock


Requires a pendulum movement kit (#A309 - #A312). 37H x 16W

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES


The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:

USING THE PATTERNS


Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Pattern overlap line Craft knife Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.

Frame & Back


Stock: 1/8 - 1/4, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Clear tape

Cut on dashed line for Back

Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Pattern overlap line

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE


Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES


When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS


Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

#P568 Assembly Instructions


1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Top Window Panels (C) and Top Floor Spacer (U) to the Clock Panel Front (A). Next, attach the Clock Panel Back (A). Now, glue this assembly into position on the Top Floor (S). Note: screw or finishing nails can also be used if desired. Then attach the Bottom Window Panels (K) and Bottom Floor Spacers (V) to the Front Panel (I). Next, attach the Back Panel (I). Now attach this assembly to the bottom of the Top Floor (S), and the top of the Bottom Floor (R), securing with glue. Now, attach the Pendulum Bracket (P) and Bottom Brackets (BB) into place. Attach the Door Assembly (L), Windows (D & J), Steps (W), Dial Underlays (Q & EE), Door Overlay (FF) and Overlay (DD) into position. Now, attach the Rail Brackets (O) into place in the Front Panel (I) and Bottom Window Panels (K). Next, glue the Bottom Front Brackets (X) to the Front Panel (I), along with the Lower Brackets (T) to the Front and Back Panels (I). Follow the same procedure to attach the corresponding Brackets (H & CC) to the Clock Panel Front and Back (A). Should the Brackets fit too tight on the Floors, sand slightly. At this time, attach the Front and Side Rails (Z & AA) to the Top and Bottom Floors (S & R). Then attach the Door Roof (N) and Door Crest (M) into place securing with glue. Now, attach the Roof (Y) to the top of the Clock Panel ( A) assembly, and the Crest (B) to the front of the Roof (Y). Next, secure the Deer (F) and Trees (G) into place on the Crest Top (E), and then secure this assembly to the Crest (B). Finish as desired. Attach the clock movement. Hang the pendulum rod from the movement and adjust the length by breaking off sections in 1 increments.

B Y Y FF A D C EE
12 9 6 3

H Q CC

AA S U

Z V T I N J K R W P BB V Z L AA O X M

GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

DD #P568 - The Birmingham Clock

#P568

#P568 THE BIRMINGHAM CLOCK


Description Clock Panel Front & Back Crest Top Window Panel Top Window Crest Top Deer Tree Front Bracket Front & Back Panel Bottom Window Bottom Window Panel Door Assembly Door Crest Door Roof Rail Bracket Pendulum Bracket Dial Underlay Bottom Floor Top Floor Lower Bracket Top Floor Spacer Bottom Floor Spacer Steps Bottom Front Bracket Roof Front Rail Side Rail Bottom Bracket Upper Bracket Overlay Dial Underlay Door Overlay item Qty A 1 each B 1 C 2 D 2 E 1 F 1 G 2 H 2 1 each I 2 J K 2 1 L M 1 N 2 O 8 P 1 Q 1 R 1 S 1 T 4 U 1 V 2 W 1 X 2 Y 2 Z 2 AA 4 BB 2 CC 4 DD 1 EE 1 FF 1 Size 1/4T x 7 1/2W x 10 7/8L 1/4T x 7 3/4W x 14 5/8L 1/4T x 3 1/2W x 8 1/8L 1/16 - 1/8T x 2 3/16W x 5 1/8L 1/4T x 2 5/8W x 8 1/8L 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 7 1/4L 1/4T x 3 1/8W x 5 1/8L 1/4T x 1 1/2W x 8L 1/4T x 8 11/16W x 10 7/16L 1/16 - 1/8T x 2 13/16W x 6 5/8L 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 10 1/2L 1/4T x 7W x 7 1/8L 1/4T x 5 1/8W x 7L 1/4T x 1W x 3L 1/8T x 1 1/4W x 2 3/8L 1/4T x 6 7/8W x 12 3/4L 1/8T x 6 1/4W x 6 1/4L 1/4T x 6W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 6W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 4W x 10 1/2L 1/4T x 3 1/2W x 7L 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 8 3/16L 1/4T x 1W x 7 7/8L 1/4T x 1 1/2W x 10 5/8L 1/4T x 5 1/2W x 7 3/8L 1/8T x 2W x 16L 1/8T x 2W x 6L 1/4T x 1 3/4W x 4 1/8L 1/4T x 3 1/2W x 7 1/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 3 5/8W x 3 5/8L 1/8T x 5 1/8W x 5 1/8L 1/16 - 1/8T x 3 1/4W x 3 3/8L

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Top Window Panel (C)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line Dashed line indicates placement of Clock Underlay (EE). Drill hole for clock shaft.

Top Window Panel (C)

#P568

Clock Panel Front & Back (A)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each. Top pattern piece.

Attach to Top Window Panel with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Dashed line indicates placement of Door (FF).

Small dashed lines indicate placement of Underlay (Q).

Top Window (D)


Pattern overlap line Drill hole for clock Dashed line indicates shaft. placement of Clock Underlay (EE). Note: Cut a 4 diameter hole in Back (A). This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.

#P568

Stock 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2

Clock Panel Front & Back (A)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece. Top Floor Spacer (U)

Crest Top (E)


Stock 1/4 Tree Attach to Crest (B) with glue or silicone. Tree

Deer Adjust slots, if necessary, for thickness of material used.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P568
x 18 # nd ea u l g th wi t ron fF o Ro to h tac At . ils na g in ish n i f 5/8

Crest (B)
Stock 1/4 Left pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Top Window Panel (C)


Stock 1/4, cut 2

Pa tt ern o ve rla p lin e


S re Ri tock st gh 1 (B t p /4 ) att ern pie ce .

Dashed line indicates placement of Top Window.

Top Floor Spacer (U)

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Deer (F)

Stock 1/4

Stock 1/4, cut 2

Front Bracket (H)


Stock 1/4, cut 2

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Tree (G)

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Bottom Window Panel (K)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Dashed line indicates placement of Door Assembly (L).

Pattern overlap line

Bottom Window Panel (K)

#P568

Front & Back Panel (I)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each. For Back cut only on outside solid line. Top pattern piece.

Attach Bottom Window Panel (K) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Attach Rail Bracket (O) here. Cut slots in Front Panel only.

Dashed lines indicate placement of Roof (N).

Cut Door opening and Roof slots in Front Panel (I) only.

#P568 Pattern overlap line

Front & Back Panel (I)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each. For Back cut only on outside solid line. Bottom pattern piece.

Attach to Bottom Floor Spacer (V) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Step (W) goes here

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Stock 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2

Bottom Window (J)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Bottom Window Panel (K)


Stock 1/4, cut 2 Top pattern piece. Attach Rail Bracket (O) here.

Bottom Window Panel (K)

Dashed line indicates placement of Bottom Window.

Stock 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece. Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Pattern overlap line #P568


The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Dashed line indicates placement of Bottom Window.

Pattern overlap line

Please note: it may be necessary to sand the inside edges of the Door so that it will open and close more easily.

Use your choice of hinges.

Use knobs or dowels of your choice.

Door Assembly (L)


Stock 1/4

Side view of Door Roof (N) 33

Stock 1/4

Door Roof (N)

Top

Rail Bracket (O)


Stock 1/8, cut 8 #P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Door Crest (M)


Stock 1/4 Attach Door Crest to Door Roof with #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Pendulum Bracket (P)


Stock 1/4. Left pattern piece.

Bracket (BB)

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Dashed line indicates placement of Overlay (DD)

Bracket (BB)

#P568

Pendulum Bracket (P)

Stock 1/4 Right pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Dashed line indicates placement of Clock Overlay (EE).

Dial Underlay (Q)


Stock: 1/8

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Back Panel (I)

Bottom Floor (R)


Stock 1/4 Left pattern piece. Stock 1/4, cut 2 Left pattern piece. Pattern overlap line

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Bottom Window Panel (K)

Side Rail (AA)

Cut on solid line for Pendulum.

Front Pan

Step (W)

Front Rai

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Front Panel (I)

Step (W)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front Rail (Z)

Bottom Window Panel (K)

Side Rail (AA)

#P568 Back Panel (I) Cut on these lines for Bottom Floor Spacer (V). Pendulum Bracket (P)

Pendulum Bracket (P)

Bottom Floor (R)


Stock 1/4 Right pattern piece.

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Stock 1/4, cut 2 Right pattern piece.

Side Rail (AA)

Top Window Panel (C)

#P568 Clock Panel Back (A)

Top Floor (S)


Stock 1/4 Left pattern piece. Cut on these lines for Top Floor Spacer (U).

Top Floor Spacer (U)

Pattern overlap line

Stock 1/4, cut on outer solid line. Left pattern piece.

Clock Panel Front (A) Cut on Solid line for Pendulum. Note: check opening for pendulum movement you are using.

Clock Panel Front (A)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front Front Rail (Z)

Top Window Panel (C)

Pattern overlap line

Side Rail (AA)

#P568

Top Floor Spacer (U)


Stock 1/4 Right pattern piece.

te Stoc ps (W k 1/ 4, c ) ut S
Stock 1/4, cut on outer solid line. Right pattern piece.

Top Floor (S)

1 ea ch

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

L ock St

Br 4 er 4, cut w o 1/

et ack

(T)

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

B ock St

F t2 cu om t t 4 o 1/ ,

t ron

Bra

t( cke

X)

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

34

Roof (Y)
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Attach to Front & Back (A) with #18 x 5/8 finishing nails and glue. Top

Front

Side view of Roof (Y)

Bottom Bracket (BB)


Stock 1/4, cut 2

34

Side Rail (AA)


Stock: 1/8, cut 4 #P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Attach to front edge of Top & Bottom Floors with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. Pattern overlap line

#P568

Front Rail (Z)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2 Left pattern piece. Pattern overlap line

Front Rail (Z)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2 Right pattern piece.

Stock 1/4, cut 4

Upper Bracket (CC)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Overlay (DD)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

Dial Underlay (EE)


Stock: 1/8

Door Overlay (FF)


Stock 1/16 - 1/8 Option: cut door at 3 bevel and then glue back in so it extends out.

#P568
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P569 - Floral Cathedral


A stately 30 1/2H x 12W this beautiful fretwork clock offers a display area for your favorite figurine. Requires a 3 1/2 clock insert.

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES


The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:

USING THE PATTERNS


Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Pattern overlap line Craft knife Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.

Frame & Back


Stock: 1/8 - 1/4, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Clear tape

Cut on dashed line for Back

Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Pattern overlap line

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE


Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES


When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS


Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

GREAT AMERICAN
L L H G
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

#P569 Assembly Instructions B J


1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Base Side tabs into the Front and Back Base, securing with glue. Finishing nails can also be used if desired. Next, attach the Base Anchors into position. Then attach the Floor to the Base assembly. Now, attach the Sides to the Front and Back along with the 2 Wall Anchors. And attach this assembly to the Floor. Now attach the Spire Sides to the Front and Back Spires, along with the Spire Anchors. Glue this assembly into place on the Ceiling, and then, glue the Ceiling into place. Finish as desired, and insert the clock movement.

12 9 6 3

K F

#P569 - Floral Cathedral Clock

FLORAL CATHEDRAL CLOCK


#P569 Description Item Qty Size Front Back Wall Anchor Side Front & Back Base Base Side Front & Back Spire Spire Side Floor Ceiling Base Anchor Spire Anchor A B C D E F G H I J K L 1 1 2 2 1 ea 2 1 ea 2 1 1 2 4 1/4T x 10W x 16L 1/4T x 10W x 16L 1/4T x 2 1/2W x 14L 1/4T x 7 3/8W x 15 1/2L 1/4T x 5 1/16W x 9 15/16L 1/4T x 6 1/2W x 7 3/8L 1/4T x 6 1/4W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 10W x 13 1/2L 1/4T x 10W x 12 1/2L 1/4T x 6 3/4W x 8L 1/4T x 2W x 5L 1/4T x 1 1/4W x 12 1/4L

#P569

Insert Wall Anchor tab here.

#P569 Bore 3 hole for 3 1/2 clock insert.

Front (A)
Stock: 1/4. Top pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Insert Wall Anchor tab here.

Insert Side tab here.

#P569

Front (A)
Stock: 1/4 Middle pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

e tab

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Insert Side tab here.

Front (A)
Stock: 1/4 Bottom pattern piece.

#P569

Back (B)
Stock: 1/4. Top pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Insert Side tab here.

#P569 Pattern overlap line

Back (B)
Stock: 1/4 Middle pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Wall Anchor (C)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Wall Anchor (C)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.

Stock: 1/4 Bottom pattern piece.

Back (B)

#P569
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Insert Side tab here.

Side (D)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Top pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

#P569
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Side (D)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece

#P569

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side Base (F) Base Anchor (K) Base Anchor (K) Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each

Side Base (F) Base Anchor (K) Base Anchor (K)

#P569

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front & Back Base (E)

Base Side (F)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

#P569

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Side Sp

ire (H)

ire (H) Side Sp

) nchor (L Spire A

Front & Back Spire (G)


#P569 Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

) nchor (L Spire A

Pattern overlap line

Spire Side (H)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2. Bottom pattern piece. Optional: Sand bottom, inside edges of the Spire Sides, and The Front & Back Spires to sit flush on the Ceiling.

Pattern overlap line

Front & Back Spire (G)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each. Top pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Spire Side (H)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2. Top pattern piece. Optional: Sand bottom, inside edges of the Spire Sides, and The Front & Back Spires to sit flush on the Ceiling.

#P569
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

) nchor (L Spire A

Insert Back Wall tab here.

Floor (I)
Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.

Insert Base Side tab here.

Adjust slots, if necessary, for the thickness of the material used. Insert Front tab here. Front

#P569

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line Side (D)

Floor (I)
Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Base Anchor (K)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

#P569

Insert Base Side tab here.

Side (D)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P569 Spire (G) Note: Due to the angle of the Spire assembly, it may be necessary to sand the inside and/or outside edges of the tabs to fit in the Ceiling slots easier. Spire (G)

Ceiling (J)

Stock: 1/4

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

ir 1/4 Sptock:
S

h nc cut 4 A e ,

( or

L)

#P569
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P570 - Leavenworth Requires a pendulum movement kit (#A309 - #A312) 24H x 14W

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES


The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:

USING THE PATTERNS


Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Pattern overlap line Craft knife Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.

Frame & Back


Stock: 1/8 - 1/4, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Clear tape

Cut on dashed line for Back

Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Pattern overlap line

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE


Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES


When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS


Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

D C A C Q A P E

#P570 - Assembly Instructions


1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front Panel (A) to the Window Panels (B). Then attach the Back Panel (A) and the Spacer (N). Now attach the Floor (M) with glue and / or finishing nails. Proceed to attach the Roof (C) and glue the Side Brackets (E) into position. Next, attach the Crest (D), Dial Underlays (H & P), and the 2 Overlays (L & Q)). Now, attach the clock movement (excluding the pendulum) before proceeding. Lay the clock assembly carefully on its front. Attach Bottom (G) into place. Then lay the clock assembly on its back to attach the Bottom Brackets (F). Next, attach Bottom (R), Pendulum Overlay (K), Front Fence (I) and Side Fences (J). Hang the pendulum rod from the movement and adjust the length by breaking off sections in 1 increments.

12 9 3 6

E B N

H J M I

F G K

#P570 - The Leavenworth

GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

Pattern overlap line

Front & Back Panel (A)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece. Window Panel (B) Window Panel (B)
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Small dashed lines indicate placement of Dial Underlay (P).

Drill for clock shaft.

Note: Cut a 4 diameter hole in Back Panel (A). This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.

Use glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails to attach Front & Back to Window Panels. Spacer (N)

#P570 - THE LEAVENWORTH


Description Front & Back Panel Window Panel Roof Crest Side Bracket Bottom Bracket Bottom Dial Underlay Front Fence Side Fence Pendulum Overlay Overlay Floor Spacer Dial Underlay Overlay Bottom Item Qty A B C D E F G H I J K L M N P Q R 1 ea 2 2 1 4 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 Size 1/4T x 7 1/4W x 10 5/8L 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 8 3/4L 1/4T x 6W x 7L 1/4T x 7 3/8W x 14 1/4L 1/4T x 2 1/2W x 9L 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 6 1/2L 1/4T x 7 1/4W x 11 1/2L 1/8T x 6 5/8W x 6 5/8L 1/8T x 1 3/4W x 14 1/2L 1/8T x 1 3/4W x 6L 1/16-1/8T x 4W x 4L 1/16-1/8T x 4W x 6 3/4L 1/4T x 6W x 12 1/4L 1/4T x 4W x 6 3/4L 1/8T x 5 1/4W x 5 1/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 1 3/4W x 2L 1/4T x 5 1/4W x 4 1/2L

#P570

Front & Back Panel (A)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Top pattern piece.

Small dashed lines indicate placement of Overlay (L).

Dashed lines indicate placement of Dial Underlay (H).

Pattern overlap line

#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Spacer (N)

Window Panel (B)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Side Bracket (E)

Spacer (N)

#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side Bracket (E)

26

Roof (C)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Top

Adjust slots if necessary for thickness of material used.

Front

26

#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side view of Roof (C)

#P570 Pattern overlap line


Roo f

Ro

C) of (

(C)

Crest (D)
Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Attach Crest to Roof with #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

(C)

Pattern overlap line

Side Bracket (E)


Stock: 1/4, cut 4

Crest (D)
Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.

Bottom Bracket (F)


#P570

Stock: 1/4, cut 2

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Bottom Bracket (F)

Dashed line indicates placement of Pendulum Overlay (K).

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Bottom (G)

Stock: 1/4, top pattern section Right pattern piece.

Bottom Bracket (F)

#P570 Attach to Floor (M) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Bottom (G)
Stock: 1/4, top pattern section Left pattern piece. Pattern overlap line

Dial Underlay (H)


Stock 1/8

Drill for clock shaft.

Dashed line indicates placement of Dial Underlay (P).

Side Fence (J)

Pattern overlap line #P570

Floor (M)

Front Fence (I)


Stock: 1/8. Right pattern piece. Pattern overlap line

Side Fence (J)

Floor (M

Front Fence (I)


Stock: 1/8. Left pattern piece.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Floor (M)

Side Fence (J)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2

Dashed line indicates placement of Overlay (Q).

Overlay (L)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

Overlay (Q)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

Pendulum Overlay (K)


Stock: 1/16 - 1/8 #P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Window Panel (B)

Window Panel (B)

Front (A)

Pattern overlap line

#P570 Bottom (G) Back Panel (A) Bottom (G)

Floor (M)
Stock: 1/4

Spacer (N)

Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece. Cut on these lines for Spacer (N).

Note: Check opening for pendulum movement you are using.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.

Floor (M)

Pattern overlap line

Dial Underlay (P)


Stock 1/8

#P570
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Window Panel (B) Drill for clock shaft.

Bottom (R)
Stock: 1/4, Glue to bottom of Bottom (G).

#P570

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P571 - Victorian Queen


Fretwork Clock inspired by 18th century Victorian elegance. 17H x 21W. Requires a 3 1/2 clock insert.

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES


The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:

USING THE PATTERNS


Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Pattern overlap line Craft knife Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.

Frame & Back


Stock: 1/8 - 1/4, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Clear tape

Cut on dashed line for Back

Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Pattern overlap line

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE


Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES


When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS


Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

C B

CC Z AA

G Z

DD T Z S I F X EE J BB Z

E R S U Y H #P571 - The Victorian Queen Clock L V

#P571

Q P

N M O

N O M

12 9 6 3

#P571 - The Victorian Queen Clock

#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P571 - The Victorian Queen


Description Item Front Frame Back Center Frame Back Side Frame Front Leg 1st Floor 2nd Floor 3rd floor Center Overlay Left Side Panel Right Side Panel Left Overlay Right Overlay Support Collar Support Panel Top Support Panel Support Panel Design End Panel Side Panel End Cap Left End Cap Right End Cap Top Frame Spacer Bottom Frame Spacer Center Cap End Support End Cap Right End Panel Left End Panel Separator Front Frame Support A B C D E F G H I J K L M N, O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z AA BB CC DD EE Qty Size 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 ea 1 3 2 4 2 1 1 1 1 2 4 2 1 1 2 1 1/4T x 7 1/2W x 12 1/2L 1/4T x 6 1/4W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 8 1/4W x 13L 1/4T x 7 1/2W x 12 1/2L 1/4T x 4 9/16W x 15 3/8L 1/4T x 4 9/16W x 15 3/8L 1/4T x 4W x 16L 1/4T x 5W x 7 3/8L 1/4T x 3W x 4 3/4L 1/4T x 3W x 4 3/4L 1/4T x 2 3/8W x 3 1/16L 1/4T x 2 3/8W x 3 1/16L 1/4T x 3 1/4W x 4 1/4L 1/16T x 1 15/16W x 4L 1/16T x 1 15/16W x 4L 1/4T x 6W x 7 1/4L 1/4T x 2 3/16W x 2 3/8L 1/4T x 1 1/8W x 2 3/8L 1/4T x 13/16W x 2 3/8L 1/4T x 15/16W x 2 3/8L 1/4T x 15/16W x 2 3/8L 1/4T x 2 15/16W x 12 1/4L 1/4T x 1 9/16W x 12 3/4L 1/8T x 9/16W x 2 3/8L 1/4T x 1 1/8W x 3 3/8L 1/4T x 1W x 3 1/8L 1/4T x 3W x 3 1/2L 1/4T x 3W x 3 1/2L 1/8T x 1 1/4W x 3L 1/4T x 1/4W x 4 1/4L

#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P571 Assembly Instructions


1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first aligning the two Back Side Frames and the Back Center Frame side by side with their bottoms flush. Then attach the Top Frame Spacer with glue and finishing nails, making sure 1/4 space is left at the top for the 3rd Floor. Next, place the 2nd Floor into position to get the proper spacing for the Bottom Frame Spacer. Place the Bottom Frame Spacer so it butts up against the bottom of the 2nd Floor, and secure the Spacer in place with glue and finishing nails. Now, glue the 3 Floors into position on the above assembly. Next, insert the 2 Legs into position. Check to see that all 4 feet are sitting flush on the table before gluing. Should one not touch, adjust the Front Leg(s) as needed by pulling the top or bottom of the Leg out slightly. Then glue to secure in place. Next, attach the Left and Right Overlays into position on the 1st and 2nd Floors, along with the 2 Center Caps. Then, attach the Center Overlay. Now, attach the 2 Separators to the Left and Right Side Panels. Then glue the Front Frame Support into position behind the Front Frame, and then attach this assembly into place on the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Now, attach the Left and Right Side Panel assemblies into place between the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Next, attach 2 End Supports to each of the Right and Left End Panels. Then attach the End Caps to this assembly. Now, glue these assemblies into position between the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Now, glue the 4 Side Panels into place on the ends of the 1st and 2nd Floors. Then, attach the 2 End Caps, the Right and Left End Caps, and the End Panels into place. Now, glue the 2 Support Collars into position, along with the 5 Support Panels. Then, attach the 3 Support Panel Designs into place in the Top Support Panel. Finish as desired, and insert the clock movement.

Front Frame (A)


Stock: 1/4. Top pattern piece. Pattern overlap line

#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front Front Frame (A) Frame (A)

Stock: 1/4 Stock: 1/4. Bottom pattern piece. Pattern overlap line

Top Support Panel (P) Support Collar (M)


Su

(N

pp

nel

pp

Dashed line indicates placement of Support Collar on backside.

ort

Pa

Pa

ort

nel (N

Su

Bore 3 hole for 3 1/2 diameter clock insert.

#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Su

pp

Small dashed line indicates placement of Support Panels.

ort

Pa

nel

(O (O )

) Pa nel

Su pp ort

Top Support Panel (P) Support Collar (M)


Su

(N

pp

nel

Su pp

Dashed line indicates placement of Support Collar on frontside.

ort

Pa

Pa

ort

nel (N )

Back Center Frame (B)


Stock: 1/4 Top pattern piece.
) Su o pp

3rd Floor

Pattern overlap line #P571


The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Su

pp o

Small dashed line indicates placement of Support Panels.

rt P

ane

l (O l (O )

rt P ane

Pattern overlap line

Top Frame Spacer (W) goes here.

2nd Floor

Bottom Frame Spacer (X) goes here.

Back Center Frame (B)


Stock: 1/4 Bottom pattern piece.

1st Floor

#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P571 Pattern overlap line 2nd Floor Dashed lines indicate Bottom Frame Spacer (X)

Back Side Frame (C)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.

1st Floor

Front Leg (D)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Top pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

3rd Floor

Pattern overlap line

3rd Floor

Dashed line indicates Top Frame Spacer (W)

Back Side Frame (C)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Top pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

2nd Floor Bottom Frame Spacer (X)

#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line 3rd Floor

2nd Floor

Front Leg (D)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.

1st Floor

#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

End Cap (T)

End Panel (R)

Left End Cap (U)

#P571 Bottom Frame Spacer (X)

Side Panel (S) Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.

1st Floor (E)


Pattern overlap line

Side Panel (S)

Fr

t on

Le

Left Overlay (K) Center Cap (Y) Center Overlay (H)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

1st Floor (E)


Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece. Pattern overlap line

End Cap (T) Side Panel (S)

Side Panel (S)

eg

Right Overlay (L) Center Cap (Y)

Right End Cap (V)

Fr on tL

End Panel (R)

#P571

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

End Cap (AA)

End Support (Z)

Left End Panel (CC)

#P571 Top Frame Spacer (W)

2nd Floor (F)


Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

End Support (Z)

Left Side Panel (I) Separator (DD) Front Frame Support (EE) Front Frame (A)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

o Fr

nt

eg

Right End Panel (BB)

End Support (Z)

Right Side Panel (J) Separator (DD)

Fr on tL

eg

End Cap (AA)

#P571

2nd Floor (F)


Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

End Support (Z)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P571 Top Frame Spacer (W)

3rd Floor (G)


Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.

Fr

L nt

eg

Pattern overlap line

Front

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Center Overlay (H)


Stock: 1/4. Attach with glue, and wire brads if needed.

Pattern overlap line


Fr t on Le g

3rd Floor (G)


Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.

#P571
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

45 Top view of Left Side Panel (I)

Left Side Panel (I)


Stock: 1/4

End view of Left Side Panel (I)

Insert Separator (DD) tab here.

14

Top view of Right Side Panel (I) 45

End view of Right Side 45 14

Right Side Panel (J)


Stock: 1/4

Top view of Left Overlay (K)

Top view of Right Overlay (L)

45

#P571

Left Overlay (K)


Stock: 1/4

Right Overlay (L)


Stock: 1/4
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Support Panel Design (Q)


Stock: 1/4, cut 3

Support Collar (M)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Top Support Panel (P)


Stock: 1/16

End Cap (T)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Top view of Left End Cap (U) 45 Top view of Right End Cap (V) 45

Cut 2 on these lines for Support Panel (N).

Cut 2 on these lines for Support Panel (O).

Left End Cap (U)


#P571 Stock: 1/4

Right End Cap (V)


Stock: 1/4

Support Panel (N) & (O)


Stock: 1/16, cut 4
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P571 Pattern overlap line Pattern overlap line

Top Frame Spacer (W)

Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.

Bottom Frame Spacer (X)

Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.

Top Frame Spacer (W)


Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Bottom Frame Spacer (X)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.

End Support (Z)


Stock: 1/4, cut 4

End Cap (T, U, V)

End Panel (R)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Side Panel (S)


Stock: 1/4, cut 4 Top view of Right End Panel (BB)

Center Cap (Y)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2 45

Right End Panel (BB)


Stock: 1/4 End view Left Panel (CC)

End Support (Z)

End Support (Z)

Separator (DD)
Stock: 1/8, cut 2

End Cap (AA)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Sand bottom and top edges to fit into position.

12

Left End Panel (CC)


Stock: 1/4 45 Top view of Left End Panel (CC)

Front Frame Support (EE)

End view Left Panel (CC)

End Support (Z)

End Support (Z)

#P571

12

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock: 1/4

#P572 - Victorian Lynn Pendulum Clock Feel a sense of accomplishment when you create one of these treasured keepskakes. 34H x 13W.

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES


The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:

USING THE PATTERNS


Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Pattern overlap line Craft knife Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.

Frame & Back


Stock: 1/8 - 1/4, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Clear tape

Cut on dashed line for Back

Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Pattern overlap line

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE


Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES


When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS


Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

I #P572 - Assembly Instructions


1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back (B) to the Side Panels (C), then attach the Top Floor Spacer (P). Now, attach the Roofs (I) and the Crest (A). Attach this assembly to Top Floor (H). Now, attach Front and Back (J) to the Side Arches (K). Then, attach the Top and Bottom Spacers (G). Attach this assembly to Bottom Floor (L). And then attach the Top Floor assembly to the Top Spacer (G). Now, attach the Dial Underlays (D) and (O), Top Overlay (E), Back Overlay (Q), Angel Overlay (R), and Front Rails (F) and Side Rails (S). Next, attach the clock movement (excluding the pendulum). Then carefully lay the clock on its front and attach Bottom Bracket (M) into place. Then lay the clock onto its back and attach Center Bracket (N). Now hang the pendulum rod from the movement and adjust the length by breaking off sections in 1 increments.

I B

E D
12 9 3 6

B
H

P S

F G R

GREAT AMERICAN
Q
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

J J G L S F

N
#P572

#P572 - The Victoria Lynn

#P572 - The Victoria Lynn


Description Crest Front & Back Window Panel Dial Underlay Top Overlay Front Rail Top & Bottom Spacer Top Floor Roof Front & Back Side Arch Bottom Floor Bottom Bracket Center Bracket Dial Underlay Top Floor Spacer Back Overlay Angel Overlay Side Rail Item Qty A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S 1 1 ea 2 1 1 2 1 ea 1 2 1 ea 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 Size 1/4T x 8 1/2W x 13 1/2L 1/4T x 7 1/2W x 11 3/4L 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 8 3/4L 1/8T x 6 7/8W x 6 7/8L 1/4T x 5W x 6 1/4L 1/8T x 1 1/4W x 9L 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 7 1/2L 1/4T x 6 1/2W x 10 1/4L 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 7 3/4L 1/4T x 8W x 11 1/2L 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 11 1/2L 1/4T x 6 1/2W x 10 1/4L 1/4T x 6 3/4W x 8 7/8L 1/4T x 3 7/8W x 5 3/8L 1/8T x 6 3/8W x 6 3/8L 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 7L 1/8 - 1/4T x 4 5/8W x 4 5/8L 1/16 - 1/8T x 3 3/4W x 4 1/4L 1/8T x 1 1/4W x 5 3/4L

#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Crest (A)
Stock 1/4 Left pattern piece.

#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Attach to Roof (I) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Pattern overlap line

Crest (A)
Stock 1/4 Right pattern piece.

#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Front & Back (B)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each Bottom pattern piece.

Small dashed line indicates placement of Overlay (E).

Dashed line indicates placement of Clock Overlay (D).

Side Panel (C)

Drill for clock shaft

Note: Cut a 4 diameter hole in Back (B). This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.

Top Floor Spacer (P)

#P572

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side Panel (C)

Front & Back (B)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each Top pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Front & Back (B)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each

Small dashed line indicates placement of Overlay (E).

Dial Underlay (D)


Stock 1/8

Drill for clock shaft

#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Window Panel (C)


Stock 1/4, cut 2

#P572

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P572 Stock 1/16 - 1/8

Top Overlay (E)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front Rail (F)


Stock 1/8, cut 2 Note: Sand 45 angle to fit Front and Side Rails together.

Window Panel (C)

Side Rail (S)

Note: adjust pendulum opening if needed.

Front (B)

Top Floor (H)


Front Rail (F)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock 1/4

Side Rail (S)

Cut on solid line for Pendulum.

Window Panel (C)

#P572 Back (B)

Top Floor Spacer (P)


Stock 1/4

Cut on these lines for Top Floor Spacer (P).

Roof (I)
Stock 1/4, cut 2

Top

36

Front

Attach to Front & Back (B) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

36

#P572
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side view of Roof (I)

Attach Side Arch (K) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

#P572 Pattern overlap line Note: Adjust pendulum rod so that the bob hangs in this approximate location.

Front & Back (J)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each. Cut design in Front only. Cut outer rectangle only for Back. Bottom pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Bottom Spacer (G)

Bottom Spacer (G)

#P572 Top Spacer (G)

Front & Back (J)


Stock 1/4, cut 1 each. Cut design in Front only. Cut outer rectangle only for Back. Top pattern piece.

Dashed line indicates placement of Back Overlay (Q).

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Side Arch (K)


Stock 1/4, cut 2 Top pattern piece.

Stock 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Side Arch (K)

#P572

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side Arch (K)

Front (J)

Bottom Floor (L)


Front Rail (F)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock 1/4

Side Arch (K)

Note: adjust pendulum opening if needed.

Side Rail (S)

#P572 Back (B) Bracket (M) Back (B) Cut on solid line for Pendulum in Top Spacer (G) only.

Top & Bottom Spacer (G)

Stock 1/4, cut 1 each.

Cut on these lines for Top & Bottom Spacer (G).

Bottom Bracket (M)


#P572

Stock 1/4

Center Bracket (N)


The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Center Bracket (N)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock 1/4

#P572

Side Rail (S)


Front Stock 1/8, cut 4

Note: Sand 45 angle to fit Front and Side Rails together.

Stock 1/8

Dial Underlay (O)

Drill for clock shaft.

Back Overlay (Q)


Stock 1/8 - 1/4

Dashed line indicates placement of Angel Overlay (R).

Angel Overlay (R)


Stock 1/16 - 1/8

#P572

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P573 - Bell Tower


Towering spires and elegant fretwork combine to make this an eye-catching focal point. 23H x 19W. A 3 1/2 clock insert is required.

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES


The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:

USING THE PATTERNS


Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Pattern overlap line Craft knife Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.

Frame & Back


Stock: 1/8 - 1/4, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Clear tape

Cut on dashed line for Back

Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Pattern overlap line

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE


Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES


When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS


Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

#P573 - Assembly Instructions


1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back (W) to the Sides (X), then add Spacers (Y). Next, attach this assembly to Bottom floor (G). Now attach Front and Back Panel (O) to the Side Windows (Q), and attach the Spacers (P). Then attach Overlays (R) to the Side Windows. Now, attach the Front and Back Panel assembly to the Center Floor (F), and then glue the Center floor to the Base assembly (WXY). Attach Front Walls (H) and Back Walls (I) to The Sides Walls (J). Secure the Wall Anchors (V5) into place, and then secure these assemblies to Center Floor (F). Now, attach Roofs (C) and Center Crest (D) to the Front and Back Gables (B). Attach this assembly to the Top Floor (E). Next, attach Crests (A), Top Side Rails (V3), and Top Front Rail (V6). Then attach the Side Rails (V2), and Side Rails (V4) into place. Now, attach the Front Legs (Z1), and then the Front Rails (V1). Then, attach the Rear Legs (Z2). Attach the Front Walls (S) and Back Walls (T) to the Side Walls (U). Then, attach the Ceilings (N), and Wall Anchors (M). Now, attach the Front and Back Spires (K) to the Side Spires (L), and attach this assembly to the Ceilings. Then, attach this entire assembly to the Top Floor (E). Attach the bells, and finish as desired.

A C

L T B U S

K N

M V2 V3 V6 I H J R O V5
3 6

P O

12 9

F V4

V1 Z2 W

X Z1

Y Y

Z1 V4 V1 G
#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

#P573 - Bell Tower Clock

GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

#P573 - The Bell Tower


Description Item Qty Crest Front & Back Gable Roof Center Crest Top Floor Center Floor Bottom Floor Front Wall Back Wall Side Wall Front & Back Spire Side Spire Wall Anchor Ceiling Front & Back Panel Spacer Side Window Overlay Front Wall Back Wall Side Wall Front Rail Side Rail Top Side Rail Side Rail Wall Anchor Top Front Rail Front & Back Side Spacer Front Legs Rear Legs
#P573

Size

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 W X Y Z1 Z2

1/4T x 3W x 10 1/2L 2 1/4T x 5 1/2W x 6 3/8L 2 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 6 5/8L 2 1/4T x 4 3/4W x 7 3/8L 1 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 16L 1 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 16L 1 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 16L 1 1/8T x 3 1/2W x 7 1/2L 2 1/8T x 3 5/8W x 7 5/8L 2 1/8T x 3 1/4W x 7 3/8L 4 2 ea 1/8T x 2 5/8W x 4 1/4L 1/8T x 1 7/8W x 4L 4 1/8T x 5/8W x 4L 8 1/8T x 3W x 3 1/8L 2 1 ea 1/4T x 7 3/8W x 7 3/8L 1/4T x 4W x 6 7/8L 2 1/4T x 4W x 7 3/8L 2 1/16-1/8T x 2 5/8W x 6 3/4L 2 1/8T x 3 1/2W x 7 1/4L 2 1/8T x 3 5/8W x 6 1/4L 2 1/8T x 3 1/8W x 6L 4 1/8T x 3W x 15 7/8L 2 1/8T x 3W x 4 3/4L 2 1/8T x 3W x 4 1/2L 2 1/8T x 3W x 5 3/4L 4 1/8T x 5/8W x 7 3/8L 8 1/8T x 3W x 6 1/2L 1 1 ea 1/4T x 3 7/8W x 14 1/2L 1/4T x 3 7/8W x 4 1/2L 2 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 14L 2 1/4T x 3 1/8W x 8 3/8L 2 1/4T x 3 5/8W x 8 3/8L 2

Attach to Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Center Crest (D)

Crest (A)
Stock 1/4, cut 2

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Center Crest (D)

Ro of

(C

(C

of

Front & Back Gable (B)


Stock 1/4, cut 2 cut design for Front only.

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Ro

Top 58

Roof (C)
Stock 1/4, cut 2. Bevel edge by sanding on a belt sander to fit against Center Crest (D). Front

30

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side view of Roof (C)

(B)

(B)

Crest (A)

Center Crest (D)


Stock 1/4 Top of Roof (C)

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side Wall (U)

Rail (V2)

Side Wall (U)

Roof (C)

#P573 Back Gable (B) Front Wall (T) Pattern overlap line Front Wall (S) Front Gable (B) Front Rail (V6) Crest (A)

Top Floor (E)

Stock 1/4. Left pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Top Side Rail (V3)

Side Wall (U)

Roof (C)

Side Wall (U)

Pattern overlap line

Front Wall (S)

Top Side Rail (V3)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Crest (A)

Rail (V2)

#P573 Back Gable (B) Back Wall (T)

Top Floor (E)

Stock 1/4. Right pattern piece.

Side Wall (J)

Side Wall (J)

Rail (V4)

Side Window (Q)

#P573 Back Panel (O)

Center Floor (F)

Stock 1/4 Left pattern piece.

Back Wall (I)

Spacer (P)
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Left pattern piece. Pattern overlap line

Front Wall (H)

Cut on these lines for Spacer (P).

Front Panel (O)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Rail V1

Side Wall (J)

Side Window (Q)

Side Wall (J)

Front Wall (H)

Rail (V4)

#P573

Center Floor (F)


Stock 1/4. Right pattern piece.

Spacer (P)
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Right pattern piece. Back Wall (I)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Rail (V4)

Side (X)

#P573 Back (W)

Spacer (Y)
Stock 1/4, cut 2 Left pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Cut on these lines for Spacer (Y). Front (W)

Bottom Floor (G)


Stock 1/4. Left pattern piece.

Rail V1

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Note: Sand angle to fit next to Front Legs

Side (X)

Pattern overlap line

Spacer (Y)

Stock 1/4, cut 2 Right pattern piece.

Bottom Floor (G)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock 1/4. Right pattern piece.

Rail (V4)

#P573

Front Wall (H)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2

Insert Wall Anchor tab here.

Back Wall (I)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Wall Anchor (M)


Stock: 1/8, cut 8

Front & Back Spire (K)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2 each

Ceiling (N)
Stock: 1/8, cut 2

Side Wall (J)


Stock 1/8, cut 4

Drill for a screw eye to hold bell of your choice.

Front

Spire Side (L)


#P573

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock: 1/8, cut 4

Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. Spacer (P)

Front & Back Panel (O)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each. Cut design and clock insert opening in Front only.

Bore a 3 hole for a 3 1/2 dia. clock insert.

Spacer (P)

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side Window (Q)

Spacer (P)

#P573

Side Window (Q)


Stock 1/4, cut 2

Small dashed line indicates placement of overlay (R).

Front Wall (S)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Spacer (P)

Wall Anchor (M)

Back Wall (T)


Stock: 1/8, cut 2

Side Wall (U)


Stock: 1/8, cut 4

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2

Overlay (R)

Note: Sand angle to fit next to Front Legs

#P573 Bottom Floor and Center Floor Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails. Stock 1/8, cut 2 Top Floor (E)

Pattern overlap line

Front Rail (V1) Side Rail (V2)

Stock 1/8, cut 2 Left pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Front Rail (V1)

Stock 1/8, cut 2. Right pattern piece.

Sand angle to fit against Front Leg

Side Rail (V4)


Stock 1/8, cut 4

Wall Anchor (V5)


Stock: 1/8, cut 8

Front Center Floor (F) & Bottom Floor (G)

Top Side Rail (V3)


Stock 1/8, cut 2

Outside edge

Top Floor (E)

Top Front Rail (V6)


Stock 1/8

Attach Top Floor (E) with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Rail (V2)

Pattern overlap line

Side (X)

#P573

Front & Back (W)

Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Note: cut design in Front only. Right pattern piece.

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Side (X)

Spacer (Y)

Pattern overlap line Stock 1/4, cut 2

#P573 Spacer (Y)

Front & Back (W)

Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each Note: cut design in Front only. Left pattern piece.

Front Legs (Z1)

The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Rear Leg (Z2)


Stock 1/4, cut 2

Attach to Floors with glue and #18 x 5/8 finishing nails.

Spacer (Y)

#P573
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Side (X)

#P574 - Pendulum Clock 15H. Order Movement #C131 & Hands #C137 or #C138

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES


The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:

USING THE PATTERNS


Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Pattern overlap line Craft knife Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.

Frame & Back


Stock: 1/8 - 1/4, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.

Clear tape

Cut on dashed line for Back

Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Pattern overlap line

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE


Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES


When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS


Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

B B B N J N C D A E E H K #P574 - Eagle Black Forest Clock L M A

GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

#P574 - Assembly Instructions


1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front to the Sides and Bottom, then attach the Back. Now, attach the Roof pieces. Then, attach the Gable Underlay, Side Overlay and Bottom Overlay into place. Next, attach the Dial and Door. Now, attach the Gable to the Roof, and secure the Leaf Overlay, Leaves, and Eagle into place. Insert the clock movement and secure in place. Finish as desired.

F I

#P574 - The Eagle Black Forest Clock Description Item Qty Front & Back A 1 ea Roof B 6 Gable C 2 Gable Underlay D 2 Side Overlay E 2 Bottom Overlay F 1 Side G 2 Dial H 1 1 Bottom I 1 Eagle J Leaf Overlay K 2 Pendulum L 1 Door M 1 Leaf N 2 Size 1/4T x 6W x 10 7/8L 1/4T x 2W x 5L 1/4T x 2 3/8W x 7L 1/4T x 1 5/8W x 5 7/8L 1/4T x 2W x 7 1/4L 1/4T x 2 1/8W x 5 3/8L 1/4T x 3 1/2W x 7 3/4L 1/8T x 5 1/2W 5 1/2L 1/4T x 3 1/2W x 5 1/2L 1/16 - 1/8T x 5W x 8 3/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 4 3/4W x 8 1/2L 1/16 - 1/8T x 4W x 11 1/8L 1/16 - 1/8T x 2 1/2W x 5L 1/8T x 4 1/8W x 5 1/8L

1/4 diameter x 5L dowel.

f oo

(B

Pattern overlap line

Front & Back (A) (A) Front & Back


#P574 Stock: 1/4,1/4, cut 1cut each. Stock: 1 each. Top pattern Bottompiece. pattern piece.

Ro

of

Pattern overlap line


f( B)

o Ro

f oo

(B

Dashed line indicates placement of Door (M).

Front & Back (A)


Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece. Attach Sides (G) with glue and #18 x 5/8 wire brads.

Side (G)

Dashed line indicates Dial (H). Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.

Note: Cut a 4 diameter hole in the Back. This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.

#P574

Bottom (I)
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

Side (G)

Roof (B)
Stock: 1/4, cut 6 Back (A)

Top

Front (A)

Front

Gable Underlay (D)


Top Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Side Overlay (E)


Stock: 1/4, cut 2

f oo

(B

Outside edge

o Ro

f(

B)

f oo

(B

Gable (C)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Bottom Overlay (F)


Stock: 1/4

#P574
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

Side (G)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2

Bottom (I)

#P574
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

Stock: 1/4

Front

Dial (H)
Stock: 1/8 Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.

le Ea g
#P574
St oc

k:

1/

16 ) -

(J

1/

The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

Leaf Overlay (K)


Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2

#P574
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

Door (M)

Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
Pattern overlap line 1/8 1/4 1/4

piece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8L into the following shape

2 Secure one 1/4 side


of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with contact cement or super glue.

Pendulum Hook

Front Clock movement

3 Insert the remaining Front


Pattern overlap line

Pendulum (L)
Stock: 1/8. Top pattern piece.

1/4 side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook

Hook Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly

Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C131 Hands - #C137 or #C138

Leaf (N)
Stock: 1/8, cut 2

Pendulum (L)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8. Bottom pattern piece.

#P574
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001