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Coil Winder Instructions.

Before we can build our wind turbine there are a few tools we need to make. We'll need to make moulds for the magnet rotors and the stator, and we need to make a coil winder. It's simply a spool made from wood, with a crank that we can wind our coils on. The next couple of pages will detail exactly how we made ours, but the idea here is simple and there are surely many simpler ways to do this. Some of the thoughts that went into this design included: having a fairly large crank which makes handling thicker wire easier, and having the back disk oversized, with steel pins so that we can change the form of the coil and build different/larger sizes of coils if necessary. Ours is also constructed like this because these were all materials we had on hand. Your situation may be different. For a one off project, this could all be simplified some. Before building this it might be helpful to read the section on building the stator so you understand how we use this tool - that will help you to understand why we make it this way, and give you ideas about other possible ways to make a good coil winder. Listed below are all the parts we'll require for this project.

Parts List
- ¼" Plywood disk 6" diameter -¼" Plywood disk 4" diameter -3/8" plywood rectangle, ¾" x 1.5" -5/8" plywood disk 6" diameter -1" wooden dowel 2.5" long -1.5" steel square tubing 7" long -1" x ¼" steel barstock 5" long, qty 2 -5/16 - 18 bolt, 3.5" long -5/16 - 18 bolt, 2.5" long -¼" SAE washer, qty 2 -5/16 - 18 wing nut -16 Penny nail, qty 5

6' long (tail boom.lots of shards flying around and I've seen grind stones explode before. Just follow proper safety proceedures and odds are you'll live through it. 9" long (tail bearing) 2" sched 40 pipe. again . Metal is often sharp when you cut it.the design is very forgiving. To do this you'll need to have the ability to cut/grind and weld steel. 4" long (to attach alternator to yaw bearing) 2.25" sched 40 pipe.5" sched 40 pipe. This involves a fair bit of metal work. disk to support the back of the spindle) 1" sched 40 pipe. 3. If you're new to this type of work it might pay to practice your skills on some scraps. 12" long (yaw bearing) 3" sched 40 pipe. tail bracket. Also keep in mind the dangers of metal work. 15" square (stator bracket. But some of the welds are critical so you need to be a bit careful. Cutting with a torch or welding has it's obvious hazards (molten hot steel and sparks flying).625" long (pipe to support wheel spindle and stator bracket) 1. Materials List 1/4" thick steel plate. so be sure to wear a face shield. Grinding can be fairly dangerous . tail pivot) 1. The tolerances with this are not terribly. tail vane bracket . This is the most dangerous work you'll do to build the wind turbine. 5' 6" long (tail boom gusset.This chapter will describe how we build the 'frame' for the wind turbine.25" x 1/4" bar stock.

16" diameter birch plywood disk.5.1/2" . We call for all 1/2" thick birch plywood (birch plywood is stronger and smoother) for all the parts.13 tpi threaded rod 2.the stator has to be 1/2" thick when we're finished. Once you finish winding and connecting our coils you'll need to cast them in resin to form the stator.1/2" washer .5" long . You could use thicker stuff for the lid and the base. wired in 3 phase star configuration.The stator consists of 9 coils equally spaced around a circle. Of course many things could be changed and it would still work fine (or maybe even better). This chapter will show exactly how we built ours. 1/2" thick .1/2 .13 3/4" long wood screws .5" diameter with a hole in the middle 5.75" birch plywood disk. To make this we need to build a mold out of plywood. 1/2" thick . but the middle must be 1/2" thick .13 tpi nut . The stator is a disk 15. Materials . qty 2 .18" square birch plywood 1/2" thick.75" in diameter.