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A GOOD APPETITE

Mayonnaise: Oil, Egg and a Drop of Magic

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Making Mayo by Hand: For a good w orkout and a great emulsion, try making mayonnaise by hand w ith a w hisk. Melissa Clark demonstrates.
By MELISSA CLARK Published: May 22, 2012

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“DON’T you know the mayonnaise trick?” My friend Dori and I were standing in front of Empire Mayonnaise in Brooklyn, the city’s first and only artisanal mayonnaise shop, ogling its wares: flavors like lime pickle and, of course, bacon, when she asked me that.

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May onnaise: Oil, Egg and a Drop of Magic 4.
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Diner’s Journal: The Raw Egg Conundrum (May 2 2 , 2 01 2 ) Share Your May o Tips and Tricks 3

If there was a trick for making mayonnaise, I certainly did not know it. And what a trick — a potential game-changer, the kind that turns homemade mayo from a special-occasion recipe

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is why many mayonnaise recipes call for it. Caballo Blanco’s Last Run: The Micah True Story 9. which. good-quality commercial mayonnaise is a rare thing indeed. ending our dependence on subpar.” Mr. moist pieces of swordfish slathered with garlicky aioli. To make Homemade mayonnaise w ith sriracha sauce. Dancing in my head were visions of sweet potato salad tossed with pungent lime pickle mayonnaise. too. just a teaspoon increases the odds that it will. Because here’s the thing about mayo: while it’s easy to buy high-end mustard and ketchup. blender or whisk. dunking the spears two.Y. I achieved the lightest. I knew a mayonnaise spree was in the making. the oil molecules are uniformly dispersed in the egg and then hold there. you need to slowly beat oil into egg until an emulsion forms — that is. helping them stay separate. If you want really delicious mayo. and hot biscuits spread with bacon mayonnaise and topped with slices of ripe tomato. stirring in minced anchovies at the end. A dollop of mustard can help create and hold an emulsion. a chef and instructor. Adding a teaspoon of water to the yolks before dripping in the oil helps create a stronger and more stable emulsion. seasoned with lemon and mustard. He explained that while you need not add water for an emulsion to form. the mayonnaise will break. “A little water physically broadens the space between fat droplets. Dori said. heartbreakingly deflating from a thick and attractive froth into a thin and oily puddle. N. but if you add too much you run the risk of ending up with mayo that is too tart. you have no choice but to make it yourself. Latest Met A ria: Bad Opera News Is No News 1 0. my success Andrew Scriv ani f or The New Y ork Times rate for making it had been about 50 percent. and her mayonnaises haven’t collapsed since. 3 Show My Recommendations Chopard at Cannes ALSO IN T MAGAZINE » Tiina in Amagansett. most ethereal mayonnaise I’d ever made. Heady with success and inspired by the flavors on offer at Empire. Bunch said.More A Good Appetite Colum ns Enlarge This Image into an everyday endeavor. Priv ate Schools 8. my mayonnaise often broke: the oil and egg separated. Whether I used a food processor. corn-syrup-filled commercial stuff. Nate Berkus's boxes ADVERTISEMENTS In trodu ci n g Bu si n ess Da y Li v e . She picked up the secret in culinary school years ago. The first time I tried it. It made some of the finest egg salad I’d ever had. Lemon juice and vinegar accomplish the same thing. beyond flavor. and so I called there and spoke with Tucker Bunch. three and four times into the tasty sauce until we swabbed the bowl clean. Why did a teaspoon of water make such a difference? And why hadn’t anyone told me this before? The only cookbook I knew of that mentioned adding water to the yolk before whipping was published by the Culinary Institute of America. The next day I whisked together another batch. If the oil droplets don’t stay distinct from one another and evenly dispersed in the oil. Black Mormons and the Politics of Identity Go to Complete List » 5 Despite my deep and committed love of mayo. mayonnaise. It tasted deeply of the good olive oil I used. We ate it with roasted asparagus.Wa tch N ow! 4 6 .

Ludescher. With a blender or food processor. “We make students on campus make mayonnaise with a whisk first before they can use a machine so they understand what it takes to work. FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+ EMAIL SHARE Get 50% Off The New York Times & Free All Digital Access. it is prone to breaking. can make the molecules come unglued. the emulsion is stable. mayonnaise can be like petroleum jelly. The lecithin binds the oil droplets and the water in the yolk. Although mayonnaise can come together more easily in a food processor. said Richard D. Bunch said. “Water gives you that nice. light texture. Egg And a Drop Of Magic.” 1 2 NEXT PAGE » 5 A version of this article appeared in print on May 23. Part 3 Our culture and politics still echo with one of Dick’s core ideas: that the world is a matrix led by corrupt. Dick.” he said. “This isn’t going to happen when you use a whisk. “Without any added water.” Another reason to add water is that it dilutes the yolk and opens up the complex matrix of lecithin and proteins it contains. Overbeating. To really bolster your chances of creating and holding an emulsion. a little cold water can keep everything from overheating as it whirls — another frequent emulsion buster. on page D1 of the New York edition w ith the headline: Mayonnaise: Oil. secretive 3 4 6 . that’s the essence of a mayonnaise emulsion. along with overheating. the dean of academic programs at the School of Environmental and Biological Sciences at Rutgers. 2012. Bunch said.COM TELEVISION » DINING & WINE » OPINION » BUSINESS » OPINION » HEALTH » The Stone: Philip K. As long as they are bound together. Mr. Get Free E-mail Alerts on These Topics May onnaise Condim ents Cooking and Cookbooks INSIDE NY TIMES.” Mr. use a whisk.Adding water also heightens the fluffy factor.

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