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Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars

Level 3


1 Warmer
Are there any traditional or speciality foods or dishes in your area? What food specialities do you associate with Italy?

2 Find the information
Scan the article to find the information. 1. Find three words at the beginning of the article and one word at the end that link pizza-making to religion. ______________________________________ ______________________________________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________

2. Find the names of two traditional Neapolitan pizzas. ______________________________________ _______________________________________

3. In which paragraph can you find a recipe for a patented pizza? 4. Find the names of: a. a gourmet pizza chef ______________________________________ b. two traditional pizza makers ___________________________ c. a food expert ______________________________________ d. a film star ______________________________________ ___________________________

© Macmillan Publishers Ltd 2012 NEWS LESSONS / Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars / Advanced


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are pushing beyond that. 13 “For me. garlic and oregano marinara. the home of the tomato and mozzarella margherita. sheep’s cheese. while pounding dough beneath the obligatory photos of the Pope and former Napoli footballer Diego Maradona. a pizzaiolo named his new mozzarella.” says the controversial exponent of the Italian trend for what are being dubbed gourmet or “ultra pizzas”. where Sofia Loren plays a pizzaiola in the working-class district of Materdei. which has secured EU certification for the margherita and another Neapolitan standard. it is even more of a tradition than the margherita. provola cheese and cicoli. but now passions run high over the addition of stilton. cow’s milk mozzarella from the region of Campania and olive oil. port and even liquorice Tom Kington 20 May. 2 The fashion for ultra pizzas has spread throughout Italy. up and down Italy. Since opening in 2010. has whipped up an almighty row. dismissed the ultra-pizza trend as “just like a cold.” said Sergio Miccu. 2-3cm high crust. 11 “I have seen cream being used. the tomato. “Fried pizza was bigger than oven-baked pizza in Naples until the N T O FR BE C O DO O M W P W N IA EB LO B SI A L TE DE E D • Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars Naples gave birth to the margherita. taking their lead from a Rome restaurant. the local restaurant which prepared her for the role.” he added. the economic downturn means more chefs are colonizing the poor man’s food. saffron and liquorice pizzas. and steamed chestnut and mushroom pizzas. Miccu listed off the elements that make up the perfect – and now Brusselspatented – margherita: a 33cm diameter. 4 “Pizza was born as a food for the poor and any complicated pizza loses its identity. all cooked in a wood oven after the dough has risen for nine hours. Five decades on. is still pulling in the crowds.” 14 A third of Di Matteo’s business is folded and fried pizzas – typically stuffed with ricotta. whose grandfather opened the restaurant in 1901. San Marzano tomatoes. and it doesn’t get worse than that. 70. 8 What makes Coccia different is that he has dared to open for business in the town where pizza was first popularized and where. a local type of pancetta. or pizza makers. while I am being considered a chef instead of just a pizzaiolo. The Gold of Naples. tomato and basil pizza – mimicking the white. But as Coccia is constantly being reminded. For Neapolitans. We are not OK with this. buffalo mozzarella. he said. in 1889. “gourmet means talking about what you eat. 3 “There is no such thing as gourmet pizza. two-starred chefs I know are rushing to install wood-fired pizza ovens. this is Naples. but I just want to experiment. Coccia’s restaurant.” he said. red and green of the Italian flag – after Margherita of Savoy.” said Antonio Starita. © Macmillan Publishers Ltd 2012 CA •P H NEWS LESSONS / Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars / Advanced O . his use of figs and pesto and his €25 truffle oil pizza. where 600 pizzas are served a day and a margherita costs €3. head of the Neapolitan Association of Pizza Makers. the owner. 2012 1 Enzo Coccia has an evangelical air as he discusses his spring pizza – piled with asparagus. “They may say I am a heretic. Salvatore di Matteo. 5 But a growing number of pizzaioli.” he added.” he added. Starita. To prove his point.Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars Level 3 Advanced 6 In a country that normally prizes simple ingredients and traditional recipes. pizzaioli are now attempting stilton and port pizzas as well as shrimp. 9 Naples’s staple got a further boost from the 1954 Italian comedy. His innovative – some would say sacrilegious – approach has divided a city. which has tried out duck and asparagus. lard and beans. 12 At Di Matteo on Via Dei Tribunali in the heart of Naples. La Gatta Mangiona. provoking an army of growling traditionalists to voice their contempt for Coccia’s daring combination of salt cod with mozzarella. La Notizia. 10 “I am dead against these gourmet pizzas – a pizza restaurant must be quick and cheap and turn out at least 400 pizzas a night. “As the crisis makes people want to spend less on eating well. 7 For Coccia. by which I mean it should pass”.

it is only because I know the traditions. … does not exist (para 3) _______________________________________________ 5. some may be unorthodox but all are rigorously local. How many pizzas do the Starita and Di Matteo restaurants expect to sell per day or night? 7. volume 3 Comprehension check Answer the questions according to the information in the article. gain praise from people in the same profession (para 16) _______________________________________________ N T O FR BE C O DO O M W P W N IA EB LO B SI A L TE DE E D • © Macmillan Publishers Ltd 2012 NEWS LESSONS / Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars / Advanced CA •P H O . 1. 1. “Gourmet pizzaioli are doing serious research on flours and methods of raising the dough. particularly Enzo Coccia. “This hasn’t changed much since the Greeks.” he said. Coccia’s light.” © Guardian News & Media 2011 First published in The Observer. As for the ingredients at his gourmet venture. After a long night’s baking. before he sketches out the perfect proportions for a pizza oven on a napkin. 15 For food expert Davide Paolini. paying enthusiastic and very careful attention to the small things (para 16) _______________________________________________ 7. perfectly baked pizza bases – thanks to his fanatical attention to detail – are winning plaudits from his peers. 18 “I did a fried pizza with mussels and pancetta based on my grandmother’s skewers of mussels and pancetta.” he said.” he said. What is an ultra pizza? 2. however.Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars Level 3 Advanced and temperature for raising dough. in which area do traditionalists concede that he excels? 4 Expressions Find the following phrases in the text. 16 While his ingredients may be raising eyebrows in Naples. 17 At a second restaurant on the same street his menu is strictly traditional. the new gourmet pizzas “can be great. he still has the energy to describe the perfect mix of humidity. dipped in egg and breadcrumbs then fried. How did the margherita get its name? 4. He did. It needs good oil and a pizzaiolo who can tell the oil’s temperature just by looking at it – it’s such a hard technique that it hasn’t caught on outside Naples. cause a lot of arguments and discussions (para 2) _______________________________________________ 3. While Enzo Coccia has many critics. What is a pizzaioli? 3. be the place where something first began (subtitle) _______________________________________________ 2. What is the connection between Sophia Loren and pizzas? 5. express your disapproval (para 2) _______________________________________________ 4. 20/05/12 1950s. attract a large number of customers (para 9) _______________________________________________ 6. but we are always looking to improve on things. praise the work of the new wave of pizza chefs in perfecting the dough base. but it’s no longer pizza”. “If I am innovating.” he said. Who is Antonio Starita and what does he say about gourmet pizzas? 6.

Paola is willing to pay a large sum of money to the team of consultants that comes up with the best ideas for a range of new and innovative pizzas as well as clever ways of marketing them.Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars Level 3 Advanced 5 Ingredients Find all the pizza ingredients mentioned in the article. decide whether they are belong on traditional or non-traditional pizzas (or both) and write them into the corresponding parts of the circles. Present your ideas to Paola and try to win the contract. Work in groups. © Macmillan Publishers Ltd 2012 NEWS LESSONS / Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars / Advanced CA •P H N T O FR BE C O DO O M W P W N IA EB LO B SI A L TE DE E D • O . non-traditional both traditional 6 Discussion When it comes to food. are you more of a traditionalist or are you someone who likes to try new and exotic culinary creations? 7 Group work Sales figures at Paola’s Pizzas have been falling steadily.

cream. a pizza topped with an innovative. salt cod. garlic. 2. unorthodox margherita. 3. truffle oil. breadcrumbs. 2. 5. He runs a traditional pizza restaurant.Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars Level 3 KEY Advanced 2 Find the information 1. pesto. shrimp. 5. provola cheese. 4. olive oil.. liquorice. the Di Matteo restaurant – 600 pizzas a day 7. heretic. cicoli (a kind of pancetta) Non-traditional ingredients lard. beans. pancetta 3 Comprehension check 1. steamed chestnut. mushrooms Both cow’s milk mozzarella. 4.. port. asparagus. buffalo mozzarella. the Starita restaurant – at least 400 pizzas a night. egg. pull in the crowds fanatical attention to detail win plaudits from your peers © Macmillan Publishers Ltd 2012 •P CA NEWS LESSONS / Naples chefs take sides in the ‘ultra pizza’ wars / Advanced O FR BE C O DO O M W P W N IA EB LO B SI A L TE DE E D • H N O T . basil. Davide Paolini d. It is named after Margherita of Savoy. flour. ricotta. mussels. Salvatore di Matteo c. Sophia Loren 5 Ingredients Teacher’s note: There may be an element of disagreement in this task. non-traditional mix of ingredients 2. sheep’s cheese. Enzo Coccia b. 7. Traditional ingredients tomato. He is completely against gourmet pizzas. marinara paragraph 4 a. a pizza maker 3. 3. figs. 6. 6. oregano. saffron. which could lead to some interesting discussions amongst the students. He has perfected the dough base. 4. 4 Expressions 1. Antonio Starita. She played a pizzaiola in the 1954 film The Gold of Naples. evangelical. give birth to whip up an almighty row voice your contempt there is no such thing as . stilton. sacrilegious. duck.