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the G9 is perhaps better known as the Harrington Jacket. From Hollywood to the Haçienda.The Baracuta G9 is woven into the very fabric of British youth culture. The company has a contemporary outlook coupled with a long established appreciation for quality products and brands with provenance. the Baracuta G9 is back for Spring/Summer ‘13. the Baracuta brand is steeped in history. WP Lavori are heralding a new era for Baracuta. Famously favoured by the likes of Steve McQueen. the G9 has transcended social and cultural boundaries without compromise. In the true spirit of its history. ready for another generation of aesthetes to take it to their hearts. . Dating back to an industrialised pre-war Manchester. WP Lavori in Corso was founded thirty years ago in the Italian city of Bologna. It has been held in high regard by almost every British youth movement of the last 50 years which is testament to its simple versatility.

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Manchester was an industrious place. the G9 came to define the brand. Even when the brand became based in New York City in the 1950’s. which sparked the industrial revolution. Baracuta eventually branched out with their own brand. it was the image of a damp Manchester they used to sell their rain wear The history of the city has taken many twists and turns since that original G9 left the Baracuta factory. While they had made their name with rainwear. Initially making outerwear for Burberry and Aquascutum. From music to football. It was the original incarnation of the Harrington jacket and it has continued to be made in Manchester. The advent of the Manchester Ship Canal in 1894 led to a boom in industry and Baracuta flourished. Back then. combined to the innovation. towards the end of the 19th century. The Miller brothers themselves aspired to be accomplished golfers. Manchester has its flag firmly pinned to the cultural map. which perhaps influenced the design of the G9. The G9 came to embody that very spirit due to its link to Golf. known for its textile production. It is no surprise then. It is humble in its origins yet quietly and confidently able to take on all comers.THE RAIN Mark Smith On average it rains almost every other day in Manchester. that a city synonymous with downpours became the raincoat manufacture capital of the world. England. In 1937 John and Isaac Miller began making the original G9 Baracuta at their Chorlton Street factory in Manchester. . much like the G9. a pastime that was exclusively the preserve of the wealthy at that time. The mindset of the city evolved into one of aspiration and upward mobility. It’s a genuine example of that hard work ethic. It was through this rainwear that Baracuta was born. There’s a real provenance that runs through the jacket as a result.

Baracuta as a brand has a peerless connection with culture. Baracuta is the original. We used many fabrics that are traditionally used by the British army such as herringbone cotton and poplin. the emphasis for Baracuta is and always is and always has been function over fashion. the only updating of the original design is also a functional one.THE ORIGINAL Kenichi ‘Kenny’ Kusano is the former Creative Director of Japanese institution Beams Plus. Most important was the emphasis on its functionality and ease of wear. In the project I have been involved with. We respected the cultural heritage of the brand and this was a factor in the design process. and from British culture to Americana. Kenichi ‘Kenny’ Kusano. We also added a lightweight nylon tartan liner and added a removable hood.” Kenichi Kusano . which is reminiscent of the original G9 fabric. I researched its history with the British army and began to understand that to obtain a Royal warrant the product must meet certain military standards. through to sport and rock music. As a result. which was often seen on flight suits and military jackets. It is essential that it is high quality and functional. plus a ‘pocket pen holder’. He is the new designer of the Baracuta Blue Label Collection. He explains his latest project in association with the English brand: “I approached this project by looking at the history of Baracuta and I realized it was a great British brand. From Hollywood to Carnaby Street. former Creative Director of Japanese institution Beams Plus is the designer of the Baracuta Blue Label Collection. Baracuta is for every day use and should be fun to wear.

I have had an appreciation of Harrington jackets since I was a teenager. Photo: Antony Crook . Angelo Urrutia is one of the most influential characters in menswear. When I asked the encyclopedia of menswear. go! Now! While perusing the racks I found this jacket thinking it was a Baracuta but with a different label. original Four Climes. A little less in my pocket later I found out that it was indeed a Baracuta. If you haven’t been. not that I realised its provenance straight away. Right when they entered the States there was a small company called Van Heusen. It just reminds me of cool old guys in Florida and of course my classic. Mr. which had the rights to the name. I don’t ever treat anything with any kind of preciousness but it is great in foul weather. I had to. Working alongside Engineered Garments Godfather Daiki Suzuki. I feel like I can’t wear my Four Climes too much because it has some considerable value. Finding one like this was really great. All my others go into rotation from time to time. I discovered a Four Climes branded Harrington in these good ol’ United States on a trip to San Francisco. I had a few variations but my first discovery of an original was in San Francisco. Angelo is the main designer behind the Nepenthes in-house label.THE FOUR CLIMES Eschewing trends and conventions. It was in a great ol’ institution. This was in my size no less. He takes inspiration from unlikely sources but it is his eye for timeless clothing which brought about his appreciation or the Baracuta G9. I now know the history of it of course and have seen imitators from London Fog to Sears make them. They get plenty of wear and always will. Daiki Suzuki he said to me “You have to buy it. there probably is no way to buy a brand new one like this. Cable Car Clothiers. my boss. there was Four Climes until Baracuta bought its name back in the States. For a short time. so I bought it.

John continues to sell the famous jacket in his London store. It was John who first referred to the G9 as a Harrington jacket and with his son Paul. after a while we shortened it to just the Harrington jacket. it was Englishman John Simons who kickstarted the spike in popularity enjoyed by Baracuta in the 1960’s. PAUL: Baracuta was a classic English raincoat maker initially. It’s a classic piece that has certainly stood the test of time. JOHN: We were selling the jacket back then and Rodney Harrington (played by Ryan O’Neal) was wearing it in a show called Peyton Place. they made this particular style of golf jacket that became known as the Harrington. My Dad John Simons started to import American clothing into the UK in the late 1950’s. Young guys still come in for their first Baracuta jacket and also the older guys who have been wearing them for years.THE IVY While Steve McQueen is perhaps the most recognisable proponent of the Baracuta G9. Lots of companies sprang up over the years making a similar product but people always want the original and that means Baracuta. Photo: Neil Bedford . He opened a store called the Ivy Shop in the 60’s and was selling Baracuta back then. It was adopted by people in the United States and icons such as Elvis Presley and Steve McQueen wore them. It stuck. We’ve always sold them and we still sell them now. It’s the original and still the best. so much so it became a generic term. Later on. For that reason I used to call it the Rodney Harrington jacket and inevitably. It became a very fashionable jacket over there as a result.

I am very aware of Baracuta’s integral part in British youth culture and style through the generations. I am in no way a slave to brands. Norman went on to set up his own record label. He continues to work as a DJ both live and on the radio. This is what I suppose makes British style unique. It’s aspirational and always with a modernist twist. Having established himself through the burgeoning pirate radio scene in his home city of London. Over the years we made the best of what was available. Norman Jay is an innovative and pioneering DJ. it is about how you go about surviving in the world as it is today.THE SIR Standing tall as one of the most influential figures in British contemporary music. The British youth takes inspiration from lots of different places around the world. taking the best from everywhere else and then making it our own. I grew up wearing Baracuta Harringtons . youth culture and style are all different strands of the same thing and you can’t have one without the other. He received an MBE for services to music in 2002. British music. Modernism is an attitude. We are like Magpies. my style is made up from lots of things.

is a very important item that criss-crosses its way throughout British youth culture. STEVE: My first memories of the Harrington jacket date back to the 70’s and the Mod/Northern Soul crossover. there was a Ska revival in the UK where stuff like polo shirts. The look was rounded off perfectly by the Baracuta golf jacket. The reason for its contemporary relevance today is because the G9 is classic and can be worn and interpreted in so many different ways. you just wore what the people around you wore but in your own way. In 2002 they joined forces to create Oi Polloi. That’s my first impressions of the Baracuta G9. As kids we were mainly influenced by our peer groups or the kids you would know at school. Baracuta is a brand they have remained faithful to from the outset. Manchester. sometimes it’s Perry Boys and sometimes it’s Football Casuals but the same two items seems to cross together. Pairing these two items. It got appropriated by the Americans whose Preppy kids then influenced the Mods. Photo: Antony Crook . It’s a cross-cultural item.THE LOCALS Growing up on the edges of the Manchester conurbation afforded Nigel Lawson and Steve Sanderson the ideal perspective to digest the sights and sounds of the city in its defining era. the polo shirt and the G9. It’s always been there and yet still somehow remains very contemporary. The Harrington . NIGEL: It made sense for Baracuta to produce rainwear at the start because they were from a famously rainy city. When I was a kid. 2 button. It was never precise. have fused cultures from the middle of the last century right up to now.or G9 to give it its correct title . brogues and cuffed trousers were popular. To me. and the expectations of its owners. single zip. It’s probably the most iconic British cultural piece of clothing there is. it’s a golf jacket. Sometimes it’s Suedeheads and sometimes it’s Mods. a modest retail outlet which outgrew both its original Tib Street space. Simple but classic. The look was influenced by America via things like the Preppy style or Steve McQueen but when we were younger we weren’t really aware of this. It can be worn by young kids just as well as guys in their 50’s and 60’s. The most sporty rain jacket you can get is the Baracuta G9.

From the 60’s with the mods and rockers to now with the ravers. giving him a unique take on British culture. That can be the death of any mainstream culture. It’s a matter of the climate. authentic brand. It’s a classic. from the casuals with their wedge haircuts to the punts and acid teds. It has a huge influence globally. which could only be created out of an English speaking European country that is at the perfect meeting place between all the continents. and before long something new will come from music. . It’s brands like Baracuta that have underpinned the whole thing. There’s quite a special relationship between British youth culture and music. I do feel that in recent times fashion has possibly taken a slight lead over music in terms of global influence. They all had their look and British youth culture is still the leader. The passion for being a part of something doesn’t exist as strongly anywhere else in the world. Fashion and music have always gone together. such is his eclectic ear.THE SOUND Like his associate Norman Jay. Gilles Peterson is a famed DJ who earned his stripes on the pirate radio scene. It’s a comfortable relationship which adds colour to any music scene. being part of a movement to give you identity is essential to the average British kid. so the youth gets bored and listening to the radio and making music becomes a big part of existence. London is also the most socially liberal country in Europe with its diverse range of cultures and influences. Born in France. His name has been mentioned in the same vein as the music pioneer John Peel. I think it’s a social thing. he made his name in London. England is cold and wet. Style and music have always been glued together in the UK. It’s the essential garment for the postmodern male. but this relationship is often flexible. hipsters and dubstep kids. not in such a consistent way. I must have had at least a dozen Harringtons in my life as DJ. The British also know how to laugh at themselves which helps them not take themselves too seriously. Academically the French and Germans are probably ahead in terms of high art but at street level the UK is the one to watch.

most notably The Clash. taking the look to an even wider audience. Other contemporary leading lights to wear the Baracuta G9 have included David Beckham. Back in the UK. formal yet sporty. Famously. favouring the G9 due to its adaptable nature. The Baracuta brand may boast a rich heritage but it is not a heritage brand. John Simons’ seminal Ivy Shop in London is quite rightly credited for popularising the G9. Having appeared on the cover of Life magazine in a G9. the word Harrington was popularised and has continued to this day. Rarely will an item of clothing find favour with such disparate social groups with such varied views and tastes. Hollywood’s King of Cool became synonymous with the Baracuta Harrington. simply put. Preppy types from the Ivy League colleges picked up on the brand. a brand with history. The G9 was made more famous by Steve McQueen in the 1968 movie The Thomas Crown Affair. Its utilitarian design lends itself to almost any aesthetic and those early scene setters knew that. The G9 became more widely known as the Harrington jacket when Ryan O’Neal wore a G9 in TV series Peyton Place. Peter Meaden was known as the Mod Father due to his prominence on that scene. in 1964. He was once quoted as saying the subculture was about “clean living in difficult circumstances”. the G9 gained favour in the burgeoning Mod scene. athlete meets aesthete. which led to more popularity for the G9 with ska and punk fans. almost certainly due to John Simons.THE TIMES Mark Smith By 1950 Baracuta were exporting to USA. The same mentality existed in a slightly different form in other subcultures. It’s testament to both his eye and the timelessness of jacket that John continues to sell it in his shop today. While G9 is the original name. who wore Baracuta jackets at their famous Times Square concert in 1981. In other words. With the initial seeds of sartorial suave sown. This is where the everyman reputation of the G9 has its roots. rising above ones station and using one-upmanship as a lever to improve social standing. It is. even Frank Sinatra wore a Baracuta G9. His character went by the name of Rodney Harrington. Daniel Craig and Robert Downey Junior. The first New York City stockist opened and the platform for stateside popularity had been built. Then in 1954 Elvis wore a G9 in the film King Creole. . Musicians have continued to pay patronage to the G9.

the elasticated cuffs and hem all contribute to the G9 not only looking good but also performing efficiently. Reputedly a colourful character. There’s also an element of ventilation in the design which makes it ideal for sport. In Japan. doing so efficiently without compromising its appearance. On the inside. the G9 was known as a ‘swing jacket’ due to its suitability to golf. John Miller was given permission by the Fraser Clan chief. The length of the sleeves. It was popular initially with golfers due to the ‘umbrella’ effect on the rear of the jacket. The history of this pattern dates as far back as the 18th century and has prevailed both civil and clan wars. A combination of full zip and collar buttons rounds off what many consider to be the perfect example of form following function. the G9 is lined with the famous Fraser tartan.THE G9 Advocates of the Baracuta G9 point to its sheer versatility. It treads a fine line between formal and casual without ever being exclusively either. It is designed to conduct rain away from the wearer. it perfectly demonstrated how suited to golf it was. When Arnold Palmer wore a G9 to compete at St Andrews. Lord Lovat was heralded by Winston Churchill as “the most mild-mannered man that ever scuttled ships or cut a mans throat. In 1938.” . the 24th Lord Lovat to use the Fraser Tartan for the G9 lining.

the need for sportswear with a formal edge was prevalent. The Fraser tartan is an enduring one which befits an enduring jacket like the Baracuta G9. The Baracuta G9 was popular with golfers and is the perfect juxtaposition between formal and casual. The Fraser clan has strong associations with Inverness and the surrounding area. it’s a perfect example of form following function.the umbrella. Baracuta created the G9 for more casual. but the Fraser tartan which lines the jacket has Scottish-Gaelic origins reaching back to 13th century. It would be worn by those who played golf as it was formal enough to look smart but functional too. But beyond that. RAINWEAR Having gained unrivalled expertise in the manufacture of rainwear. and has survived various wars of Scottish independence and clan feuds. BACK YOKE In the era when the Baracuta G9 was first conceived. the shape of the back yoke is inspired by that perennial rain repellent . the finishing touches are provided by a duo of buttons. While there’s a clear practical purpose to this. The greatest example of this is the back yoke. less rain-sodden occasions. up the neckline. Ergonomically designed to ensure rain is conducted away from the jacket and away from the person wearing it. due to the background of the manufacturers. .FRASER TARTAN The Baracuta G9 dates back to 1937. COLLAR BUTTONS The Baracuta G9 boasts a full zip. The two buttons provide a large part of the signature look of the Baracuta G9. The G9 was popular with the same people who favoured rainwear as a result.

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