Oak Creek Climbers Guide

Nelson Lunsford, Bill Schmausser, John Musso, Bob Robertson, Mike Johnson

Oak Creek Climbers Guide


Getting There
Oak Creek Canyon is located about 9 miles south of Canon City. From downtown Canon City, turn south on 4th street and cross over the Arkansas river. Continue about one mile until the road turns east(left). Turn right here on to county road 143, also known as the Oak Creek Grade Road. Follow this road for about 7.75 miles until you arrive at the Stultz trailhead at the end of a long 1500 ft elevation game. This is position 1 on the map on page 4. Tanner Dome is a further 10 minutes, 2.8 miles down the road.

Year round climbing is the rule. Spring and fall are best. Summers can get quite hot in July and August, though you’ll be fine if you climb in the shade and take lots of water.

There are no local amenities or city water. Supplies can be found in Canon City or Florence.

The Oak Creek campground, just past the Tanner parking lot, offers sufficient camping on almost any weekend except the 4th of July. Undeveloped camping is available a mile further down the road. Oak Creek is not much of a creek after June so bring lots of water, particularly in the summer.

Quality Granite. 80% sport 20% trad. Only the finest stainless bolts and hangers. Chain or ring belays. 10+ multi pitch routes. 12 draws and a 60 meter rope will suffice for most climbing. A standard rack will cover all but a few trad climbs and the odd offwidth.

Climbing is dangerous. As a fully degreed rocket scientist, you, the reader of this guide, should intuitively recognize the self evident nature of this aforementioned fact. Furthermore, most of the routes here are new. While the routes are cleaned when put up, loose rock, rockfall and early ascents will undoubtedly continue to further clean the lines. This is not the rock gym; it is easier to get hurt outside. Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.0 2 3/18/2004

0 3 3/18/2004 .Oak Creek Climbers Guide 3 Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.

Tanner Parking 4 3/18/2004 . Back Porch 10. 9 miles from Canon City. Sub C wall 8. Bend Crags 3. 2. Native America 7. All distances are marked from here. Hueco Wall 5. Stultz Trailhead Crags.0 6. Tanner Dome complex 9. 1. Pillar of Joy 4. Entry Crags Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 4 Overview Map USGS quads Rock Vale and Curley Peak offer coverage of the area.

The Lower Deck This is the part of the rock 2/3 of the way to the creek. and follows an arête for 50 feet. and 25 feet right of Hollow Deck. Hotel Royal 5. location 1.10c *** This two pitch climb goes up the arête on the right side of Enterprise. Between Canon and the Stultz trail head you gain 1600 feet of altitude. Enterprise .10b ½ F. 2. (Faces West) This rock is on the left side -Hike to the East/going to the creek. Hollow Deck 33 5.9 * This route has 4 clips and anchor. making for great views of the south side of Pikes Peak. This climb is the far left route of the three lower routes on the wall. The very top route on the Enterprise. 2. Park here in the small lot off the road or take a left at Stultz trail head and drive down the side road for 150 meters to the east and park.A. 20 feet right of Genna. The Stultz trailhead. Captain Picard 5. 3. Ginna 5. 4. Halla Deck This Segment is on top of the Enterprise’s west face. on the overview map. One hundred feet left of Picard-90 ft.9 with 8 to anchor. 1.0 5 3/18/2004 . Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. is about 8. and 40 feet long.10a ** 12 clips to anchor. Were workin’ on it. First Pitch-5. It goes over two small roofs.10b **½ 10 clips 90 feet long. Walk the motor bike trail south east (take a right at the first Y) and follow the faint trail south east. Second Pitch-5.6 miles up Oak Creek Grade Road from 3rd street and Hw 50 in Canon City. Walk just below the ridge line to the top of the west facing rock. Bob R and his crew did all of the work here. tall. This is Enterprise. 3. 10-Forward 5. Enterprise 1.4-21-03 The route has 7 clips and anchors.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 5 Stultz Trailhead Crags (1) No pics yet.10c with 10 bolts to anchor.

T. The upper part of this climb has some liken. ten bolts to anchor. Directly South of Enterprise . Thirty feet right of Terminal Velocity.0 6 3/18/2004 . First pitch 5.N 5.B.10c ** This route goes up the clean slab in the middle of Bata-8. Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 6 Deep Space Nine The tallest North facing slab . and a piton half way up the first pitch. It had two fixed hex’s for a rap station. Second pitch 5. Terminal Valocity5.10c. six bolts to anchor. 1. 2.9. It looks like the first pitch had a little connection to a trad line.11a *½ A two pitch climb. That climbs up a arête on the second pitch.

Oak Creek Climbers Guide 7 The bend crags (2) Situated before the beginning of the hairpin.0 7 3/18/2004 . Several bolted climbs and 4 mixed trad lines here…how scandalous! Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.10 and up side.25 miles from r the Stultz trailhead. 1. several crags appear on your right . though mostly on the harder 5. Routes here run the gamut from easy to hard.

and Wayne of the unknown-last-name contributed most of the routes here. 3. 6. 2.10 mixed Hidden Surprise 5.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 8 West Bend Crag 1. Rating Unknown Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. is a crag with a HUGE roof on its left side.9 mixed Morning Sun 5.10 trad Violation 5.10b/c mixed Lenyo Breath 5.11c mixed First Bend Crag Just before the west bend crag and on the same sdide of the road. Pay Back 5. 4.11b mixed 5. Face route one 11+ 2.9+ trad April’s Fool 5. Drug Test 5. Mark Milligan. 7. Face route two. 8. 1.0 8 3/18/2004 . Glen Schuler.10b mixed Electric Ladyland 5.

5 crack. 5.0 4. Warren Banks 1 bolt/trad 3.10 2 bolts/trad. The Bohemian 5. Alhambra Pool 5. Walk off 9 3/18/2004 . Easy. 1. Be sure to bring along a copy of a Bill O’Reilly book. it will shoo them off like garlic to Vampires. Warren Banks 5.11b/c bolts (Nelson and Joe Rumler) 5. Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. Those cranky trads have been active here. They will be replaced.8 bolts (Nelson and Joe Rumler) 2. chopping some anchors.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 9 The Heuco Wall (4) Several fun moderate routes here and a 5 minute approach.

G. Tanner Dome Upper East Face Tanner Tower Civil Wall E. F.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 10 Tanner Dome Complex (8) Tanner Overview Get there: From Canon city. B. D. C. The Tanner complex consists of eight major formations as shown in the figure above A. Hike the the East Bear Gulch trail on the west side of the road for about 5 minutes or after 1/4 the trail dips briefly. H. Cartoon Wall Confluence Great Big Wall “C” Wall Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.0 10 3/18/2004 . This trail will take you to the Base of the Civil Wall shown as ‘D’ in the above photograph. take Follow the Oak Creek grade road until you reach the largest parking lot on the east side of the road. At his left take the side trail on the right. climbs and turns left.

(2) and Native America (1). The right hand loop of the Tanner trail accesses the sub C wall from the road. Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. or alternately permits access to the C wall. One can also use this trail to access Tanner dome. though most parties will use the East Bear Gulch trail.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 11 Tanner and Native America Trails Map The Figure above shows the trails to Tanner .0 11 3/18/2004 .

2-3 pitches depending on how you do it.10+ Trad.8.10 9.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 12 Tanner Dome (A) This is unquestionably the most popular Crag in the wet mountains. 2-3 pitches. Landscape Architect 5. Bob Robertson 5. 5. .11.7.0 12 3/18/2004 . Bolts 2. Rightist 5. 1.8 7. 4.10c. . Upper variations are . Make one dicey move to start.9. Amp left 5. The crux is high.10 Start on the Big boulder.8 Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. Bolt Belay. Amp right 5. Tanner offers moderate multi-pitch mostly sport climbs ranging from 5. Leftist 5. from left to right . Zing 5.8+ 6. Clippers and Saws 5. 3. 5.11.10 8. 5” to fingers. The picture below shows Tanner Dome proper and above it the Upper East Face. Tanner Classic 5.11 Work up over the roof.7 to 5.

Oak Creek Climbers Guide 13 Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.0 13 3/18/2004 .

2.8+ 7 bolts and the anchor. bolts Red Rose 5.10c 7 bolts and anchor.11-.10a. 7.11a 11 bolts and the anchor. It's the first route right of Killer Chuihuahua. Mines Delouses 5.0 14 3/18/2004 . bolts Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.11a **½ It's the left route of the two pitch routes in the middle. Room for a couple more. 6.10+ .10d ** 7 bolts and anchor. First pitch 5. bolts Friend of the Devil 5. 5. bolts Passenger 5. F.10b** 12 bolts and the anchor. The Loner 5. The far right route on The Upper East Face of Tanner.10a.10-12-02 9. Tanner Tower (c) One route at this time. Afghanistan’s Virgin Marry 5. 4. bolts Killer Chuiguahua 5. 3. Second pitch 5. Funi Bunni 5.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 14 Tanner Dome Upper East Face (B) 1. 1. The Grateful Dead 5.11a **½ First pitch 5. 8. bolts Fire on the Mountain 5.10c.11+.A.11a 9 bolts. Second pitch 5.

Mike Johnson 5.6 and 5. mixed route) 2. Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. Great views here. Bolts 15 3/18/2004 .5 camalots. Lots of fun routes between 5.10a 2 pitches. small/med cams optional on 1st pitch. 5.13a.Cartoon wall (E) The cartoon wall is located above the Civil Wall. mixed. Take the right branch around the Right base of the Civil Wall. 3 bolts. bolts.11a. Climbing here is mostly single pitch Sport. 7. mixed. Mike Johnson 5. TeleTubby 5. Rap from all routes. 10b. Heinous Wide.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 15 Tanner Dome Complex . Otto and Reggie 5. 8 bolts.12a/b. Hike the Tanner dome trail to the Civil Wall. nuts to hand. 60m rope. bolts. 1. 3.11a.10a (sits by itself.0 6. # 4 . Cartoon Barroom 5. through the gully to the base of the right side of the cartoon wall. bolts 8. Good luck. Shares an anchor with orange Marmalade.6 bolts 9. Looney Tune 5.10 with a couple harder lines thrown in for the hardmen in your group. cams to #2 camalot. left of everything else. Chris Barlow 5. 4. Orange Marmalade 5. Follow the trail back up and left.

10b) 13. 2nd pitch 5.7/5.10. Surf City 5.9 17. Saturday Mornings 5. Daffy 5.. Jerry (5. bolts 19.11a/b. Hadji 1st pitch 10c. Serious Hurt 1st pitch 5. 2nd pitch 11b. move right into the big tube.11a/b bolts Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. Wiley Coyote 5. Shorty Bob 5.9+/10a. Road Runner 5.0 16 3/18/2004 .9. Bolts 11.8 Trad 23. bolts 22.10b. bolts 14.10c. Same start as #9. bolts 20. Sylvester 5. Snaggle Puss 5. Bullwinkle 5.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 16 10. bolts 15.10c) 12. Tom & Jerry 5.10 16. bolts 18.11 trad. Tom (5.10b bolts 21.

10 trad.11b/c R. shares a start with the Merrimac The Merrimac 5.9+ Three short pitches. 8. Unionist 11c.9+.11+.11b bolts Mike Johnson 5. Bull Run 5. Chickamauga 5. bolts Abolition 5.12b bolts 17.11d. 11.12c bolts Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. Bolts 13. Mike Johnson. Mike thinks we are old ladie’s for not rating it 5. 16. 9. Mike Johnson. The Monitor 5. 14. Harpers Ferry 11a/b.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 17 Tanner Dome Complex Civil wall (D) 1.8 left of the Chickamunga arête. .9+ bolts.000 Casualties 5. Nathan Forest 5. Vicksburg 5. 6.54 Chunk ‘o’ Lead 5. 4. 7. shares a start with the Monitor Antietam 5.10 mixed 12.12a.11a.0 17 3/18/2004 . 30. Serious trad. bolts March to the Sea 5. bolts Kennesaw Mountain 5.11a bolts 2. 5.9+ bolts. Some people find a couple small nuts or a cam useful at the bottom. . 3. 10. 15.

Desert Sky 5.8 bolts (you get to this climb by first climbing both pitches of Penny Lane st nd 6. Flee 5. higher up on the wall 4.9 bolts 10. Voices on a Cell Phone 5. Voices from Home 5.6 bolts 3. Midlife Crisis 5.10 bolts.0 18 3/18/2004 . I’m Still Afloat 5.75 camalot 7.8 trad. Unquenchable Thirst 5.11c bolts 8. 9.7 bolts. 2 pitch 5.11b bolts 5. Walk Around the Block 5. Penny Lane 1 pitch 5.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 18 Tanner Dome Complex The Confluence (F) & Great Big Wall (G) 1.8 trad.10 bolts and (1 ) .10a/b bolts 2. Too Many Choices 5. Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.

9 bolts 7.10 bolts Under the Sea 5. Rising Tide 5.0 19 3/18/2004 . the C Wall offers numerous fun easy routes.bolts 5.9 bolts 6. Walk to the Civil Wall and follow the trail to the C Wall. 2.9. The Water Front 5. 3.000 Leagues 5. 1. 20.10c bolts SeaFood 5.7 bolts. bolts Bill Sea Monster 5. 4. walk off Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. Sinking Feeling 5.9.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 19 Tanner Dome Complex ‘C’ Wall (H) Located below and right of the civil wall.

1.10c bolts Pop 5. 3.10 Whiteboy 5. To find the trail start in the tanner parking lot.9 mixed 6.10 mixed Get a Little Gold 5. 5. 15 minute approach.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 20 Sub ‘C’ Wall (7) The sub ‘C’ wall is a font of moderates. Just at the end of the large crag (on the north side of the road). Walk back down the road toward the large crag which nearly terminates at the road. Follow it to the sub c wall.0 20 3/18/2004 .11b/c bolts Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. 4.10 Married but not Forgotten 5.9 mixed The Gallows Pole 5. 2. You can also climb here much of the winter. 9. Ride Many a’Mile 5. a trail leads into the woods. 10.11a I Only Find It Slips Away 5.8 bolts Hangman 5. 7. 8. The Diced Roof 5.9+ trad. Keep Me from It 5.

Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. The hike to Native America is long by Oak Creek standards. the entry to the Native America trial is found at the bend right of the entry crags. about forty minutes to an hour for most parties. marked by a drainage culvert and a silver and black hazard post. to Canon City about ½ mile from the Tanner parking Lot. 125 Feet right of the post is a break in the scrub Oak.0 21 3/18/2004 .Oak Creek Climbers Guide 21 Native America and the Entry Crags Looking down canyon.

Oak Creek Climbers Guide 22 Entry Crags (5) Need Pic. For those of you who just hate to hike this is the place. 2. 1.11b. bolts 3.10c mixed Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.10a trad.9+/5. Tatonka 5. Many Arrows 5. 2 minutes up the trail to Native America. Were on it…. the entry crags hosts 4 good routes. Brave Warrior 5.0 22 3/18/2004 .12a mixed Buffalo Robe 5. which is lame because it’s 2 minutes from the road.

It is hidden behind the lower pillar.11.shown as B in the picture below. one of which. A comparatively long . C. 45 minute. The climbs here are predominately moderate with selections from 5. . The trail will lead up to the complex of three rocks.6 to 5. Holds the west (right) and south (left) faces. hike will separate you from the crowds. the east rock.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 23 Native America (6) If you want solitude. The East Rock. is hidden from view. Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. B. The Lower Pillar. Pick up the trail at the silver and black drainage marker on the North side of the road. A. this is the place.5 miles before tanner dome parking lot.0 23 3/18/2004 .

12. 2 #1. 1 #. Cochise Arete 5. 7.8 4. You need 1 medium nut on the first pitch. Winter Camp 5. 1 #. 1 #.75.10 mixed.11d Bolts 14. 8.3.9 3. 3 #3. nuts) 9.9+ 10. 2 #2. Tecumseh 5.4. Sitting Bull 1st pitch 5. Bill’s . Broken Arrow 5. John’s Dihedral 5. (1 #4. The Prophet 5. Right Little Indian 5.West Face (a) A fine selection of moderates. 13. 1 #.0 24 3/18/2004 . 6. 2nd pitch 5. Bolts 1.South Face (a) 5. Left Little Indian 5.9 mixed.10+ Crazy Horse 5.10a 11. Reservation Casino 5.11 Geronimo 5.10a 2.10 bolts Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1.9Great White Buffalo 5.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 24 Native America Upper wall .10 crack/trad.7 Native America Upper wall .5.10 bolts .

2. Lakota 5.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 25 Native America . traverse right to the notch formed by the top of the lower wall. 4.8 Dakota 5.East Rock (b) Need pic. Sioux 5.9 5. Blackfoot 5.8 Cheyenne 5.11a Cochise 5. These routes are all bolted. bolts Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. Shawnee 5. Lone Indian 5.8 Lower Wall (c) 1.10 6. 1. Once at the upper wall.9 7.0 25 3/18/2004 . a short five minute approach to the east wall. 3.9.

3.9 Right Pillar 5. 2. mixed Elevator 11a 5. the Back Porch is not a good spot on a windy day.11+. Something for everyone here. 1. 4.8 to 5.11c. 5. About a mile past the Tanner parking lot park by the National Forest entry sign on the South side of the road. bolts 7. locate the trail at a flat open spot between two large trees on the North side of the road. O Stephanie 5.9. Follow to the base of the crag. Walk back down the road toward Tanner about 150 yards. One caveat.11a/b Look to the West 5. bolts Oak Creek Climbers Guide Rev 1. Swedish Bombshell 5.0 26 3/18/2004 .11+.Oak Creek Climbers Guide 26 Back Porch (9) A small crag with a short hike to a great view of the Sangre De Cristos. Terrorist Bitch 5. Left Pillar 5.96.

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