Edition

w w w.g l a m qata r.c o m
Editor Sindhu Chief Fashion Correspondent Senior CorrespondentS Abigail

Online

Nair mathias

Debrina Aliyah

Ezdhar Ibrahim Ali AYSWARYA Murthy
Correspondent sabrina christensen

Photographer

rob altamirano venkat reddy Hanan Abu Siam Indrajith REDDY B

Senior Art Director

Deputy Art Director

Assistant Art Director Ayush

Make every experience more colourful with Hermes travel perfumes. The hand-stitched leather travel cases come in two sizes: a clutch friendly 10ml bottle plus refill and a larger 75ml bottle plus refill. The glass perfume refills are also sold separately, with the scent options for the sprays. Read more in our online edition.

Senior Graphic Designer MAHESHWAR Senior Manager – Marketing Zulfikar Assistant Manager - Marketing Senior Media ConsultantS Hasan

Jiffry

thomas jose Rekkab lydia youssef Baluch

EVENTS OF THE MONTH
1 My Rockstars: Volume 1. ● Acclaimed artist and photographer Hassan Hajjaj pays tribute to present day pop stars, unsung artists and personal inspirations in his life. The exhibition is on at the VCUQatar gallery from 4 September to 24 October and entry is free.

Marketing Research & Support Executive Kanwal Senior Accountant Pratap Sr. Distribution Executive Bikram Distribution Support Arjun

Chandran Shrestha

Timilsina

Bhimal Rai Basantha.P
Publisher and Editor–in–chief

Yousuf Jassem Al Darwish Sehgal Alpana Roy Ravi Raman

Chief Executive Sandeep Executive Vice President Vice President

COMING UP

GLAM is published by Oryx Advertising Co. WLL. The contents of this publication are subject to copyright and cannot be reproduced without the express permission of the publisher and/or license holder. All rights rest with Datalog media solutions. The publisher does not accept responsibility for any advertising contents carried in this publication. Contact info@omsqatar.com, glam@omsqatar.com www.issuu.com/oryxmags www.facebook.com/glamqatar Call us: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 Fax: +974 44550982

Our October issue is sure to win you over with its content and ever-alluring fashion focus. One of the hottest jewellery houses from the US, speaks exclusively to GLAM. Don't miss it.

44 \ fashion

FOCUS / 44

Time for Change
Glam reviews the Autumn/Winter 2013 Collection
By DEBRINA ALIYAH

Material becomes the muse
Lanvin

“Many black dresses, a whole lot of black dresses,” says Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin, of the AW 2013 collection. Colour gives way this season to the more prominent focus on fabrics, to create volumes and structures. The main fabric in the collection is a flighty silk crepe, a kind of inverted velvety texture that gives a contemporary feel to the pieces. The unique fabric manipulation has allowed for creation of pieces with volumes that looks as if it has been held together by invisible needles and pins, the fundamentals of the art of draping. The collection also sees heavy materials including stretch wool, silk, crumpled organza and duchess satin in regal silhouettes, all complemented by men-inspired coats that has been a main stay at Lanvin for a while now. The darkhued clothing collection is complemented with bright accessories to bring to life the brand’s theme for AW, ‘Hot & Cold.’ For the young and playful, there are boldly captioned necklace medallions and belt buckles with words like ‘Help’, ‘Cool’, ‘Hot’, and ‘Love’, along with accessories that are covered with diamante, and petal-coloured shoes. But just to cap off its eclecticism, get ready to see the fashion set wearing duchess satin sweaters covered in butterflies or photographs of beetles.

FOCUS / 47

An ode to the danseuse
Nina Ricci

The collection revisits the outfits of a dancer who is getting ready to perform to an audience. The fluidity and functionality of the scenario is reinterpreted into pieces both for the dancer and guests attending the performance. Channeling a ballet performer, we see defined waists, clean bustier neckline, corsets, and flared coats and skirts to emulate the volume of a ballerina’s tutu. The more urban and casual ensembles represent the relaxed warm-up clothes of the dancer getting ready for a performance. The audiences’ wardrobe comes in form of fitted cocktail dresses, and opera coat-inspired parkas. The collection sees a black and white monochrome colour palette, dotted with pastel tones of rose. The silhouettes are brought to life with radzimir, felted wools, stretch tweeds, duchess satin, and quilted silk with layers of chiffon, pleats and feather embellishments.

FOCUS / 49

Sensuality revisited
Atelier Versace

Old Hollywood gets yet another update in Atelier Versace’s couture AW 2013 collection. But make no mistake, Donatella Versace isn’t dealing with the mysterious and nonchalance of the era, but the downright bursting-atthe-seams sexy forms. “I love the exceptional glamour and allure of the black and white era of photographs and movies, with its light and shadow and the allure of being undressed,” she says of the collection. Provocative and sensually transparent evening dresses, crystal embroideries in jewel tones, hand-woven mink and cashmere cropped sweaters, silk tulle bustier and embroidered lace brassieres make the collection almost the perfect wardrobe for a Dangerous Liaison setting. The cherry to top it all off was that there were crystal hooks to just so delicately hold together the seams of the dresses. Provocative as this may sound it is truly the spirit of Versace that is well-embodied in this presentation.

A new interpretation of wool
Bottega Veneta

“The collection is about proportion, precision, ease and the simple beauty of the material,” says Tomas Maier, creative director. The material in question? Wool. Maier has undertaken the challenge to bring new light on wool, making us rethink the way we view the material, most often as boring and old. But the current trend obsession of working intensely on volume with unconventional fabrics is done wonderfully in this simple yet covetable collection. Bringing together various types of flannel and manipulating them for different texture and effect, the main fabric is then offset with leather, silk, satin and lacquered straw. With intricate construction and deliberate lines, the look is transformative and polished, exuding a kind of evening glamour even though the collection has limited choices of night pieces. Bags from the collection are smaller than previous seasons.

FOCUS / 51

Form gets elegant
Carolina Herrera

As always, the all-American essence of Carolina Herrera with the pedigree high-society elegance comes through in her collection. Red, black and midnight blue form the main hues with swatches of delicate silk, velvet and leather as the fabric base. The standard straight silhouettes are complemented with contrasting volumes; coats and jackets combined with skirts and printed pants while dresses are close fitted for structure. The peplum, one of Herrera’s favourite shapes, gets another breathe of life, to highlight femininity of the pieces. The evening pieces play with sparkle and lace fabrics, and a stunning back-tiered maxi skirt, definitely a winner at GLAM.

Sculpted forms
Gucci

An unlikely inspiration is found in British pop-artist Allen Jones who specialises in erotic sculptures, as Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini weaved the AW 2013 collection around the artist’s fetish aesthetics. The subversive undertone creates a “noir” atmosphere, as though viewing photographs in a highly saturated filter. But really, the silhouettes are demure and modest with elegant shapes outlined in signature Gucci fabrics. “The Gucci woman seduces with her dangerous femininity,” explains Frida. “She is steely yet sexy – defining her discipline with femme fatale vices. She wears sculpted dresses with pure graphics, all the while alluding to devious touches.” Caban style jackets with egg-shaped shoulders, pencil skirts with slits, delicate waistlines, leather inserts, biased cuts, and tapered pants are the main highlight pieces. The evening pieces are straight out combos of punk and couture, with delicate netting and satin vamped up with feathers, studding and sequins. The season also sees Gucci iconic bamboo handle bags in two new styles, anchored with archival luggage locks for a retro reference.

FOCUS / 53

A sporty Mania
Michael Kors

Sporty and colourful, this collection is like an all-access pass to bring athleticism to the runway. With the sudden fitness craze and obsession for sculpted bodies, it is as if Michael Kors had designed specifically for this niche this season. It is a New York-centric collection, capturing the fitness-mania that is trending on the city’s radar. As Michael briefs the models backstage, “You are fast, athletic and chic. You race all over town from the Lower East Side to the Upper East Side. Be strong, powerful and sexy!” The city’s signature colours come into play, from the yellow of the cabs to the oranges of the workmen vests. The camouflage and the seasons-old houndstooth motif get a new take as inserts on coats and military-vests. But what we love is his take on the high-low skirt silhouette, something that we are definitely going to spend time in the gym perfecting our legs for.

54 \ fashion

Versatility rules
Toujouri

It is a special season for Toujouri, as the label ventures into new territories launching glamour separates after collections past of focusing solely on dresses and kaftans. “I love the idea that the Toujouri customer can always find an occasion to wear our pieces whether it is day or night, smart or formal, so I introduced versatility in the design of this collection and flexibility in owning a ballgown or cocktail pieces and for this collection even separates and accessories. Toujouri is renowned for its use of delicate and intricate embroidery. This season we want this precious part of the garment to be transferrable and versatile with delicate beaded collars, fully embroidered ‘cage’ pieces that can be styled up or dressed down,” says Lama El- Moatassem, the label’s creative director. Evening pieces has been given a dramatic twist with tailoring in metallic jacquard, but the intricate embellishments and detailing makes even the rest of the collection prime candidates for evening glamour. The collection is inspired by visions of the enchanted forest, resulting in relaxed silhouettes, refined fabrics and embroidery material specially manufactured for the season.

Bringing life to fantasy
By DEBRINA ALIYAH

Bourjois:

The highly dramatic red blushes on the faces of theater performers from earlier days can now be found in a small ornate blusher pot, readily available to complement any modern girl’s make-up routine.

1879 – With the Poudre De Riz De Java made to lighten the complexion, Bourjois shot to international fame.

HERITAGE / 61
1885 – Advertising lithograph depicting a scene from bourgeoisie daily life during the Belle Epoque 1927 – Advertisement from the Roaring Twenties published amongst others in the Paul Poiret caralogue

Bourjois'
colour pots fly off the shelves, selling millions of pieces yearly and yet, not many knew about the brand's illustrious beginnings until the 150th anniversary campaign brought to light its glorious history. In the 19th century, theatre and ballet performances became a key influence in the art of make-up, promoting a fantasy-world where the performers take on a new life with painted faces. Bourjois was first incepted in the theatre district on the Grand Boulevards of Paris in 1863, where actor Joseph-Albert Ponsin began making make-up for his fellow performers in his own apartment. The first forms of these products were thick, waxy grease paint sticks in different colours, which he lovingly named after theater characters like Jaloux, Vieillard and Amoureux. Five years later, the brand finally came to life when Alexandre-Napoleon Bourjois took over and began expanding the range of products. The name Bourjois’ appeared in the new products, and carved itself a niche as make-up for theatre players.

But it was not long before the visionary Alexandre Bourjois began offering the products to the mass market. The title 'Theatre Supplier' that appeared on the little round pots of face powder was changed to 'Special Manufacturer of Feminine Beauty Products.' Unsurprisingly, the innovative Java Rice Powder, designed for lightening complexions was an instant hit, selling 2 million boxes annually, in a time where European women were desperately trying to maintain fair skins as a symbol of wealth and stature. The 1898 Bourjois catalogue featured over 700 items, including face powder, make-up, fragrances, perfume extracts for handkerchiefs and hair lotions. Today, Bourjois is a picture of a youthful persona with products that appeal to many for its affordability and versatility. It is also owned by the highly secretive Wertheimer family who also owns Chanel. The association has resulted in a powerful expansion and development of the Bourjois brand, and from a consumer sense, high-quality beauty offerings at great prices.

1927 – The adventures of Babette in pictures.

1936 – Advertisement inspired by the women’s right to vote

1914 pots – The famous colour, Ashes of Roses, is born and presented in a new, round pot, the same colour as the blush it contains.

1925 – Portrait of the imaginary muse Babette

1930 – A box of the Inimitable Bourjois Pastel Blushes in a palette of different shades.

01
The Muse
An imaginary muse, Babette was chosen to represent the femininity and audacity of the Parisian woman. This was during the beginning of female emancipation during the Roaring Twenties.

The Little Round Pots
In 1912, the famous Pastel Blushes were created. A mixture of powder and water was shaped and placed in round moulds, dried and then handpolished before being put into little round pots of printed cardboard.

02

Timeline (1863 – 2013)

Blush moves from the stage to the city, Rosette Brune, in its cardboard box is one of the first to arrive

1870

Box of Batons Pour Le Grime created for theatre actors

1880

First compact of dry blush labelled Fabrique Speciale Pour La Beaute Des Dames

1881

Perfume extracts for handkerchiefs

1898

HERITAGE / 63
1950 – The Evening in Paris box set, ĎJust A Touchí which contains perfume and lipstick 1930 – A glass bell-shaped perfume flacon of Evening in Paris

1915 – Ernest Beaux, the perfumer and creator of Evening in Paris

1890 – A handbag sized make-up kit with a mirror, blush and lipstick.

1925 – A metal sheath containing 3 lip and eye-liner pencils.

1898 – The Ladies' Friend, a cylinder-shaped sheath for make-up

03
An Evening in Paris
The first perfume by Bourjois, An Evening in Paris, was the first affordable quality fragrance launched worldwide in 1928. Created by Ernest Beaux, it had notes of carnation, jasmine, iris, Provence rose, vetiver and sandalwood resulting in a floral fragrance.
1914 2003

04
The Ladies' Friend
Pioneering the concept of an on-the-go makeup kit, the Ladies’ Friend was created in 1897. It came in a form of a small midnight blue cylinder-shaped case and contained a lipstick, powder and puff as well as kohl for the eyes.
2009 2010

The famous round pot of colours

Suivez Mon Regard eye shadow in a novel packaging that releases just the required dose of powder through its integrated brush

Limited Edition collection of Rendezvous A Paris blushes and eye shadows

An assortment of 22 shades of eye shadows

Beauty with a Heart
By DEBRINA ALIYAH

GET READY TO BE MESMERISED THIS FALL BY THE NEW FACE OF H&M – GISELE BUNDCHEN. THE BRAZILIAN BOMBSHELL CHATS WITH GLAM ON THE CAMPAIGN SHOT IN THE HEART OF LONDON.

fashionista / 57

gorgeous face and a passionate heart. Could there be any more that you can ask in a woman? Supermodel Gisele Bundchen has soared great heights in the world of fashion, breaking moulds and carving her own niche in a time when many thought the era of the supermodel was over. And at a tender age of 32, she is firmly placed in Forbes Rich List, having amassed an impressive bank account which she is putting to good use with the many charities that she is rallying efforts for. The Brazilian beauty from humble beginnings conquered the world of fashion becoming one of the favourite faces for the world’s top brands, and now is concentrating on conscientious work for the world. Having served as UNEP Goodwill Ambassador, and awarded Harvard’s Global Environmental Citizen, Gisele also founded The Luz Foundation, a grant-sourcing organisation that advocates and empowers young girls. This fall, the supermodel will be seen all over billboards and ads as the new face of H&M, in a campaign that was shot in the heart of London. The collection, a cross between military chic and grungy rocker, is a perfect fit for an off-duty model wardrobe. Gisele is renowned for stunning the world in immaculately cut couture gowns, but it is her ability to master the girl-next-door look that has truly won us all over. The campaign will also be released with a special song sung by Gisele to complement video commercials.

GET THE LOOK
Silk Blouse Conscious QR285 Military Boots QR240 Slim Fit Pants QR140 Tote with Strap QR140

fashionista / 59

Tell us about your experience shooting the H&M campaign? I had a great time on the shoot. We had a great team of people and it was a beautiful sunny day so it was perfect that we were able to shoot outside. I also loved recording the song, it was such a fun experience. How was your experience recording a song for the commercial? I have always loved music, so I loved it! It was my first time singing and it was so much fun. I didn’t want to give up the mike. How did you choose the song? H&M picked the song and sent it to me and I loved it! What is the favorite piece from the campaign? I really loved the green blouse, the green pants, the blue short jacket, the coat, and the sweaters. Actually I liked everything I wore. What music do you like to listen to? I like to listen to Jack Johnson, Ben Harper, Stevie Wonder, Al Green, Marvin Gaye and also Brazilian music like Bossa Nova and other artist like Caetano, Elli Regina, Tom Jobim and Marisa Monte. It depends on what mood I am in. What is your key piece you like to wear in the fall? I am always a big fan of jeans because it is easy to match with everything, cozy sweaters and sweatshirts and I think are good options too. A nice light jacket is also good too. What is your favorite accessory for fall? I love scarves since I usually tend to feel a bit chilly. How do you decide what to wear? It depends of my mood, but definitely I always choose pieces that I feel comfortable in. Who within fashion inspires you? There is not a particular person, I feel people in general inspire me. It could be someone walking in the street or a picture in a book. What is always important to me is to feel comfortable with whatever it is I am wearing. Tell us about your charity work. I have a lot of different passions and one of them is mother earth. I believe we are all connected and that our health depends on the health of our planet. For the recognition of my involvement with environmental causes, in 2009, UNEP invited me to be a Good Will ambassador for environment. Since then I have been helping them to draw attention to this cause.

Old Things in New Light
By DEBRINA ALIYAH

IN BRINGING LIFE BACK TO THINGS THAT HAVE LOST ITS SHINE, TWO LEBANESE FRIENDS FOUND LOVE AND INSPIRATIONS IN THEIR NEW DESIGN VENTURE.

arabia / 65
A series of jewels made by upcycling useless keys 1 ‘The Feather Necklace’ ● metal keys, Swarovski crystals, and silk cordon. 2 ‘Shining Bow ● Necklace’ metal keys, Swarovski crystals, resine, and gold plated chain. 3 ‘The Peacock ● Necklace’ metal keys (silver and gold plated), held on a salmon cotton cord.

1 ● 3 ●

2 ●

4 &● 5 ● Old coins recycled into a series of unique jewelry pieces

4 ● 5 ●

Vanina

Design is not a junkyard flea market brand. There is nothing kitsch about the accessories that they make, even though the materials may be considered scrap by many. And you will definitely not find them in a bazaar; instead, they sit in the trendiest showrooms in stylish cities such as Paris, Florence, Dubai and New York. Perhaps it is reflective of a new consciousness among the fashion set that has propelled the label into stardom. When the world’s resources are depleting, we ought to find new ways to feed creative souls. Childhood friends Tatiana Fayad and Joanne Hayek were toying with some old coins in 2007, turning them into jewellery pieces as a past time. Little did

they know that some five years later, the venture would have turned into a full-fledge accessory label with global success. “It all started as a hobby when we spontaneously created some jewellery and some apparel for ourselves and our friends. And of course, people were asking for it so we launched a proper line of jewellery made using ancient Lebanese coins,” Tatiana said. It is a rare occasion to see a label founded in this region with such regard for the environment using the concept of recycling old materials. But the duo has since given the brand a very structured and grounded vision of what they want to design and achieve. Using discarded materials like old keys, magnifying glasses, and CDs, the girls cleverly incorporated the recycled items into their designs. The pieces are so well-made that you would never guess that it was made out of shredded pieces of CDs, if you weren’t told. “By

Part of the new collection from the brand is to venture into shoes. Platform and fabric sneakers are part of the offering.

66 \ arabia

A collection inspired by our rich coast

The common denim fabric treated and used as base material for clutch.

An old coin medallion with mixed materials turned into a brooch.

Byblos Treasures

“We learn a lot from the people we work with, and we love to research about new techniques and handcrafts.”
wearing a jewel, a woman carries with her a story, a message, something personal. Creating statement pieces by up-cycling unused or obsolete materials is a conscious way for us to promote an idea and a philosophy,” she explained. In one of the new capsule collections created using old metal keys, the girls explore a social story of freedom and self-expression. “Unlocked is a series of jewelry pieces made by useless keys. The message behind this collection is to ‘keep doors open’, in an environment that suffers from a lack of open-sourcing and transparency.” It is evident that Vanina Designs go beyond scratching the surface of just another fashion brand, this is a label that encompasses strong beliefs. “We design four new jewelry lines as well as various series of fashion accessories pieces, each carrying its own conceptual approach and message. We aim to promote community development through the valorisation of local craftsmanship and industry and try to work with local materials,” Tatiana said. Ecological footprints of production throughout all stages of the supply chain are kept to the minimum, something that duo achieve by working closely with local communities. All the pieces are still produced in their own workshops in Beirut, where different artisans of different specialties come together. “We learn a lot from the people we work with, and we love to research about new techniques and handcrafts. Every day is a new adventure for us, as Lebanon has a lot to offer in terms of resources, and we try to promote it in our creations as much as possible.” Each season, Vanina Design presents about 200 different references and has expanded its wings into making bags, shoes, clothes and hats. The statement pieces are all offered only in limited numbers, an ode to the concept of sustainability that the brand stands for. And while the pieces resound with more developed markets, it is a stark difference from the ‘more is more’ culture that prevails in the Middle East. “This is exactly what we want to achieve, by creating a new mindset. We want to create exclusive and unique statement pieces that are sustainable and accessible, and yet have the extravagant style that people in this region look for.”

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