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Plans-Built 4 seat Canard Aircraft SHAREWARE AGREEMENT This electronic document is one of the documents, which together constitute the instructions to build an AeroCanard Aircraft. You are free to copy and distribute this document provided that you do not charge a fee for its distribution, you do not modify it in any way, and you include this shareware agreement with the distributed copy. You may download a complete set of documents representing all the chapters of the AeroCanard plans from http://aerocad2.com. If you received this document from another source it is advisable to check this web site for updates before commencing work on the project. The chapter documents contain all the instructions required to build either an AeroCanard or AeroCanard SB including a complete bill of materials, training in the methods and techniques needed, and detailed step-by-step descriptions of each stage of the construction. Reading these documents will give you a very good idea of the complexity and size of the project you are getting into. If you decide to proceed and build one of these beautiful high-speed 4 seat aircraft you will need the hardcopy drawings and templates, which are NOT shareware. The drawings and templates showing the exact dimensions and precise curves for the various parts may be purchased from http://aerocad2.com A common statement made by those who have completed and are now flying their own canard plans-built airplane is: “The only thing I regret is not starting sooner” What is an AeroCanard? The AeroCanard is a 4 seat canard type aircraft with a Lycoming LIO360 engine. It has a 1000-mile range and typically cruises at over 200 mph on less than 10 gallons per hour. The AeroCanard SB has a smaller body width at the rear seats. The plans include instructions for building either aircraft. There are literally thousands of canard aircraft similar to the AeroCanard flying all over world, and thousands more under construction. You can meet some of the people flying and building canards at http://canardaviationforum.dmt.net/ or at the many fly-in meetings held around the world. This highly efficient, fast, composite airplane can be built by one person in a garage or small workshop in as little as 18 months. All the training needed to master the techniques required is included in the instructions. What Does It Cost? The plans are free. You need the hard copy drawings and templates from http://aerocad2.com which, at the time of writing, are $199. This fee may change. While it is possible to save money with bulk purchases and some used parts, the costs to build are typically: Airframe: $15,000 Engine: $15,000 Avionics: $15,000 TOTAL: $45,000 Costs can be spread over the building period purchasing materials and parts to suit your own cash flow. Many builders construct canard airplanes in evenings and weekends over four or five years purchasing the inexpensive foam, fiberglass and epoxy materials as needed. Spread over five years the cost to own an AeroCanard can be as little as $750/month plus your labor. As the basic materials begin to take the form of an airplane, and confidence of success grows, additional funds are invested to obtain an engine and instruments. Where Can I Get Support? There is a free forum for the Canard Community at http://canardaviationforum.dmt.net/ which covers many of the questions and concerns of canard aircraft builders. A section of this forum is dedicated to discussions between AeroCanard builders. The designer of the AeroCanard, Jeff Russell, visits this forum regularly and will answer your building questions whenever possible. Direct one-on-one support may be purchased from http://aerocad2.com Where Do I Get the Materials? A complete bill of materials is included with the plans. A list of recommended suppliers can be found at http://AeroCad2.com. Can I get a Formal License to Build an AeroCanard? Absolutely. You will receive an official license to build and your unique serial number when you purchase the drawings and templates. You are not authorized to build an AeroCanard without obtaining a license. These shareware files are offered simply to let you discover what is involved in the project before you invest in it. Can I get a printed copy of the plans? Yes. Printed copies are available from HTTP://Aerocad2.com. You can also obtain a CD containing all the documents which constitute the AeroCanard and AeroCanard SB plans.

Can I Really Do This? You bet you’re assumptions you can. Canard builders include carpenters, dentists, astronauts, nurses and even lawyers. You don ’t have to be a rocket scientist, but we do have one in case you need his advice. No special skills are required other than an unstoppable dete rmination to learn and complete the project. The reaction of most builders is that building an airplane isn’t as complex as they thought it would be. It is, in fact, a fun, extremely satisfying and life changing experience. For many, a most rewarding aspect of the experience is the new friends gained as a member of the canard community. Disclaimer of Warranty THESE PLANS ARE SUPPLIED “AS IS” AND WITHOUT WARRANTIES AS TO PERFORMANCE OF MERCHANTABILITY OR ANY OTHER WARRANTIES WHETHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. Because of the various capabilities of different builders, NO WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE IS OFFERED. The user assumes the entire risk of using these plans.

Chapter 5 Page 1 AeroCanard plans version 1.0 Copyright (C) 2000 All Rights Reserved

Then 3/8-in. 1).25 in.4 in. (nominal) x 8-ft. Jigs FJA. fuel sight gage areas carved. and spread the FJAs 0. blue. (minimum) total length. pine board. The jigs will first be laid flat on your work table so that the upper longerons may be laminated together with the correct provide the correct fore to aft curvature of the fuselage sides.7-in. The reason for this. and let the excess length extend equally at both ends. fastening them until after cure with nails (Fig. taper the ends as shown. paint the mating surfaces with epoxy. AA). the spacers are beveled. The outside foam surfaces are left bare until after assembly of the fuselage is completed in Chapter 6. STEP 1. Allow a smooth transition curve where FJB meets FJC. etc. some local beef up is added to the upper longerons. install the two 5-1/2 in. Don’t epoxy them to the jigs! Nails driven into the table can also be used to hold the longerons in place (Fig. After cure.45 in. If you have difficulty holding them tightly together against the jigs. remove the nails with pliers. In a similar manner. The inside surfaces are contoured. intervals where they will have to bend to match the curvature of the longerons. using flox. Make sure you make one fight and one left. rather. masonite to provide a form for the fuselage side layup. that is. FJB. The inside surface receives a 2-ply UND skin and. 2. and clamp them (3 strips per side) in place tight against the jigs (Fig. and local beef up to the landing gear and center spar attachment areas added. 1). at the aft end only (Fig. Lay two sets of these jigs flat. 3. depressions carved for additional stick clearance.0 Copyright (C) 2000 All Rights Reserved . CUTTING THE JIGS AND LAMINATING THE TOP LONGERONS For this step you will need two pieces of 1 in. take the 60 in. and FJC will be used to laminate the top longerons to the required curvature. you can even use wedges between the nails and longerons.CHAPTER 5 OVERVIEW THE FUSELAGE SIDES In this chapter you will manufacture the sides of your fuselage. After cure. Don’t try to drive the nails into the wood. thick. x 105 in. Fasten these jigs securely in place on your table with several nails in each jig. while the layup is wet. predrill holes. The jigs will first be laid flat on your worktable so that the upper longerons curvature. Spacers of 3/ 4-in. at the forward end only and the FJCs 0.5 in. 2). landing gear-centerspar cut out area. deep at 0. checking to see that they measure 102 in. The area where the center spar mates to the fuselage is opened. the lower triangular longerons are installed. etc. x 0.75-in. spruce from your kit (Fig. The jigs will then be mounted upright on the worktable and covered with 1/ 8 in. on top of each longeron as shown. x 0. 3). to fit inside the sides. wood stiffeners (Fig. Chapter 5 Page 2 AeroCanard plans version 1. Epoxy them in place. After cure. Layout and accurately cut the fuselage jigs shown on Page 2 of this chapter. mix up some epoxy. and the two 15-1 /2 in. Let cure for 24 hours minimum. is that the longerons will need a smaller radius of curvature than the sides. white. x 8-in. 2). AA). Take 6 pieces of 0.5 in. saw cut 0. sec. the upper longerons are floxed in position. long doublers alongside the longerons at the aft end as shown (Fig. Apply box sealing tape to your workbench along side the jigs (so you don’t epoxy the longerons to your worktable). You will start by making jigs to provide the correct fore to aft curvature of the fuselge sides. sec. back-to-back along the centerline of your worktable. x 1 in. long doublers on top of the longerons at the forward end. low-density Last-A-foam are glued to the top and bottom edges. of course. low-density PVC foam is laid in the form and cut to the correct profile.

0 Copyright (C) 2000 All Rights Reserved .Chapter 5 Page 3 AeroCanard plans version 1.

remove the foam with a sharp wood chisel. STEP 3. masonite and 3/8 in. length. pine board make good spacers. x 8 ft. Prepare the sides for glassing by rounding all foam edges (except the electrical channel-the glass will bridge across it). so they will be built simultaneously. Erect the jigs which you made in STEP 1 on the table as shown (Fig. 7). masonite (hardboard) to make forms for the fuselage sides from your local lumber company. x 8-in. Bondo them in place (or use a hot-melt glue gun). sec. apply a 2-in. The two sides are mirror images of one another. deep. Chapter 5 Page 4 AeroCanard plans version 1. BUILDING THE FORMS FOR THE FUSELAGE SIDES AND PREPARING THE SIDES FOR CONTOURING You will need one sheet of 1/8 in. then lightly sand the foam (120 grit). thick white. Cut this channel 1.5 in. to pass under a stringer which is added later. curved line. foam on the forms using a few small dabs of 5-min. Now. Now cut two pieces of 1/8-in. thick blue. density Last-A-Foam as indicated (Fig. epoxy works well for this purpose. Connect the points along the bottom with a smooth. thick x 4 ft. In a later chapter. study the sections of the electrical channel (Fig.4). vacuum away all debris. F-F) and 7” deep (Fig. After dishing. 7). leaving a 7/8-in. epoxy at the ends and at the bends to hold them down in place. 7. Now lay the masonite pieces on top of the jigs. Fig. low-density PVC foam to the dimensions of the fuselage side shown (Fig. cut spacers from ¾ in. wide strip of shiny. deep with 36-grit sandpaper. no adjustment should be necessary. masonite and the 3/8 in. 5). 7 & sec D-D). dish the depressions for the fuel sight gages (Fig. so the fuel may be viewed through this translucent window. Check that the top edges are straight and parallel with a uniform gap. Use weights. or you won’t have enough hands! Now. Similarly.STEP 2. 4 LB. G-G and H-H). and then rises to the surface. Then remove the nails. and sand smooth. on your band saw and then sand them to the angles shown in the cross sections. trial fit the previously laminated upper longerons to make sure the fit will be good after glassing. 7. If everything was done correctly. and you are ready for the inside layup. wide with a hacksaw blade. It starts out 0. 6). These allow extra hand room around the sticks. Now. sec. foam to meet the 102. 7. gap between the top edges (Fig. box-sealing tape to this area so the glass will not band to the foam. and removing any micro lumps. Note: If you plan to install fuel sight gages per Vance Atkinson (or equivalent). you will need a flat area 2” wide (Fig. and then use small finishing nails (angled) to hold them in place until cured. CONTOURING THE INSIDES Lay out the depressions for the control sticks (both sides.75 in. Dish 0. Micro (use a surplus) the mating surface of the spacers. These are needed to give the inside a hollowed-out shape and at the aft end to support the landing gear attach structure. 5-min. The spacers along the bottom can be cut straight and then bent to conform to the curvature when installed.25-in.0 Copyright (C) 2000 All Rights Reserved .25 in. You can cut them oversize at 45 deg. F-F). and then nail the masonite to the jigs. You will have to piece together both the 1/8 in. Scraps from the 1-in. the foam and tape are removed from the outside. sec. Now lay the 3/8-in.

Now put 7/8 in.5 in.5 hrs. to hold them down as well as in position. first covering them with wax paper so they won’t become glued in place (Fig. every four inches should do. INSIDE LAYUP AND INSTALLING THE UPPER LONGERONS This step should take you about 3 to 4 hours. Mix up some wet flox and apply to the mating surfaces of the two. holding in place with nails (Fig. There should be no gaps. In your kit find the 4 ft. and cut two 20 in. Put the upper longerons in place on the layup (with the 0. Now mix a slurry of micro and apply over the entire surface to be glassed (except the fuel sight gage). lapping 1.25 in. 5 once more. Chapter 5 Page 5 AeroCanard plans version 1. Remove excess flox and allow to cure for 24 hrs. 0. Scissor trim flush with the foam at the top of each side (Fig. Don’t try to drive the nails with a hammer. Where mild. There should be no gaps between the longerons and the fuselage sides. . Where the curvature is sharp. These are installed at the aft bottom of the fuselage sides. correct. If not perfect. and reinstall. angle. Weight or clamp as required. Wet out with epoxy. and clamp or weight them down against the fuselage sides. and then install them with flox and hold them in place with nails in pre-drilled holes until cure. and apply peel ply on the glass alongside the longerons. through the firewall. the entire length of the upper longeron.0 Copyright (C) 2000 All Rights Reserved .7 in. every two inches. They will be trimmed later. to form a square cross section (Fig. check dimensions per Fig. After partial cure. STEP 5. Check the layup to make sure there are no air bubbles of dry areas and allow to cure for 24 hours. If there are. long doublers. 10). 9). wood stiffeners toward the bottom edge of the fuselage side) and clamp them against the 7/8 in. Now lay down the first layer of UND cloth at a 30 deg. and butt (not overlap) adjacent strips (Fig. Check the dimensions in Fig. and apply 4 layers of UND with fibers oriented in the fore and aft direction. extending 0. 5 and with a felt-tipped pen. onto the fuselage side (Fig. wood spacers.45 in. Trial fit. 14). leaving 0. Wet out with epoxy and squeegee well to remove the air between layers and the excess epoxy. spacers between the tops of the two fuselage sides (to position the longerons). The triangular longerons (Fig. 8).7 in. remove the peel ply. Remove excess flox. 11). uncut.7 in.4 x 0. starting and the forward end. Drill holes for the nails so they can be inserted by hand.. Remove peel ply along the bottom edges of the fuselage sides and landing gear attach area and sand lightly with 36 grit. INSTALLATION OF LOWER TRIANGULAR LONGERONS This step should take about 1.13) at an angle. previously laminated longerons. keeping the fibers straight.5 in.STEP 4. Scissor trim and peel ply along the lower edge. Make saw cuts as required to conform to the curvature. crossing the first layer. Check once more to see that everything is ready. An assistant is handy in helping to place the glass cloth. Let the longerons overhang slightly at the forward end and the remaining excess extend aft. and in the landing gear attach area. mark the exact location of the lower longerons. knife trim flush. You can use an excess of epoxy on the first layer—it will help to wet out the next layer. on top of the existing triangular longerons.5 in. 14). 12) will have to notched with saw cuts partly through in two different directions to conform to the side and bottom curvature. through the thin edge and toward the flat side. sand.. Remove excess with the squeegee. (Fig. The saw cuts should always be on the inside of the curve. Notice that the triangular longerons extend through the firewall at least 0. x 0. flox the mating surfaces (longerons and fiberglass). Then remove all the nails. After cure. Cuts should be no deeper than 0. Lay the second layer of cloth at 30 deg.. When positioned. you probably haven’t made enough saw cuts. long piece of triangular longeron.

Measure exactly 101 . COMPLETION OF THE FUSELAGE SIDES This step involves a number of separate operations. and allow to cure. remove the foam plugs and tape and 5-min. After cure. carefully glue it back in the resulting hole.75 in. Apply 1 ply BID tape corners where shown (Fig.0 Copyright (C) 2000 All Rights Reserved . With a wood chisel. which is perpendicular to the top longeron. Vacuum away debris. Now with a carpenters square and felt-tipped pen. and the sides are ready for fuselage assembly in Chapter 6.5 in. and glass the area with 6 plies of BID at 45 deg.5 in. shaped as required (Fig. 18. which must be at least 0. In preparation for Chapter 6. Micro the foam in place.25 in. and foam (Fig. peel ply. This will be the trim line. glass. longer to extend through the firewall. Now remove the glass and foam in the 8. long and at this point should be carefully trimmed to 101. thick Clark foam to complete the transitioning electrical channel from stringer LWX to the firewall. Lay the sides back in the forms. First. draw a line on each fuselage side.75 in. horizontally from the front to the aft of each side and again draw a trim line exactly perpendicular to the upper longeron (Fig. doubled longeron.). make two male plugs from 0. apart.75 in. If any PVC foam was also pulled away. sand the built up area smooth and level with the lower longeron. 16). area where ft centerspar will mount. and stringers LWX and LWY. except overhanging at the front about 0. The sides should have been built to 102 in. 17). 20). Notice that LWY extends through the firewall at least 0. and spaced 7/8 in. except for the longerons and the stringers at the aft end. stringers LWX and LWY. Now stand the carpenter’s square on your work table for reference at the front. remove any lumps of 5-min. Glass them with 1 ply of BID. but not through the longerons and stringers (Fig. Hold them in place with nails through predrilled holes. Then remove any excess flox or epoxy along the top surface of the upper longerons. Fuselage assembly. some of which must be done in sequence with cure time allowed in between. pop the sides loose from the forms. Then flox in place the wooden stringers LWX and LWY (Figs.7 in. thick Last-A-foam to fit in the area bounded by the bottom. just as they wer3 before. as close to the front as possible. epoxy them in place (Fig. Weight down stringers and allow to cure. fill any cracks with micro. Chapter 5 Page 6 AeroCanard plans version 1. you will have to fit them around the electrical channel (Fig. 20).Now cut away the two layers of UND bridging the electrical channel and glass the bare foam inside the channel with 1 layer of BID and trim. orientation (Fig. 14). except only cut through the glass and foam. Repeat this procedure at the aft end. Now cut out pieces of 0. so you can make a vertical cut along the line you just drew. Cover them with box sealing tape (for release) and tape them to your worktable. 12 & 14). overall. and the firewall. x 5. squeegee micro over the foam.75 in. Of course.5 in. After cure. through the longerons. 15). and weight down until cured. 19). remaining on the forms. STEP 6. parallel.

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