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Lviv
February - March 2014

New Look

In Your Pocket gets a makeover

Bukovel
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N19

The best Ukrainian Ski resort

Contents
E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Arrival & Getting around


Getting to the city, car rentals and transport

6
Eternal symbol of the city of lions

The Basics
All youd better know while in Lviv

8 10

What to see
Essential sights, museums, and famous churches

33 40 44

Bukovel
The best Ukrainian ski resort

Where to stay
Lviv accommodation options

Culture & Events 12


Ukraines cultural capital

Shopping
Where to spend some money

Eat
The selection of the best restaurants in the city

16 26 28

Directory

Cafes
Our choice from dozens of cafes around Lviv

45 Medical tourism, lifestyle and business connections

Maps & Index


City centre map City map Street index Country map

Drink & Party


Citys best bars, pubs & clubs

47 48 50 51

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February - March 2014

Foreword
Lviv is probably the most tourist friendly city in Ukraine! Here hospitality is not only a local tradition, but it is the main business of the whole city. The local authorities and inhabitants seem to go out of their way to make your stay in Lviv unforgettable. Lviv is a city with much to oer, a city of unique oldworld charm. It is the scene of an accident where East broadsided West, but left only a dent. With its remarkably preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian city with a European soul. Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the countrys brightest and best museums, art galleries and theatres. It is also Ukraines Mecca there are magnicent and inspiring churches and cathedrals on just about every corner. Although Lvivians have the reputation as church-goers, they havent forgotten how to party. Pubs, clubs, restaurants and coee houses are plentiful, and its usually a local whos stoking the celebration into the early morning hours. Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history. Founded by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of his son Lev in 1256, the city has had many rulers including Poland, Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. The dubious Hitler-Stalin Pact of 1939 granted control of Lviv to the Soviet Union. This occupation spurred numerous resistance movements in the 1940s and 50s including the much celebrated and controversial Ukrainian Insurgent Army. With the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, freedom was nally seized. Lviv continues to be a shining example of independence, and Ukraine owes much of its contemporary identity to the stream of patriotism which emanates from this radical western gem. Vitayemo u Lvovi! Welcome to Lviv!

Publisher E S S E N TI A L Neolitas-KIS Ltd. C I T Y G U I D E S Nyzhnioyurkivska 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Ukraine, tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 kyiv@inyourpocket.com Registration No. KB 14928-3900P/ Published 6 times per year. 60,000 copies annualy. Company Oce & Accounts PROMOVSKI Rybna 3/19A, Lviv 79019, Ukraine tel./fax: (+380) 32 275 06 01, (+380) 67 672 44 97 Editorial Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova Research Yuliya Kanyuka, Olena Patyka Layout & Design KIS Ltd. Photos Lviv In Your Pocket Cover photo depositphotos.com Sales & Circulation Director Andrii Cherniavskyi Kyiv Natasha Martisova Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, Solomiya Hnativ Odesa Liubov Rogatinska Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 2003-2014. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Maps DNVP Kartographiya, 2014 Lviv In Your Pocket, 2014

ABOUT IYP
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Its now 22 years since we published the rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, wellwritten and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching ve million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our rst outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). lviv.inyourpocket.com

SOUTH AFRICA

4 Lviv In Your Pocket

Foreword
COVER STORy
Lviv In Your Pocket is proud to give its readers a brand new design. For this rst issue we have chosen a great photograph of Chorna Kamiyanytsia House on Rynok Square 4. For a long time this building has been one of the most recognizable symbols of the city, it is also one of the most important 16th century architectural monuments from the Late Renaissance period. The photo shows the middle of the building faade with the depiction of St Martin on his horse, cutting o part of his cloak for a beggar.

IN YOUR POCKET MOBiLE


In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones via our responsive mobile platform, found at m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together with the technical capabilities of todays smartphones. In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest to your current location. Smart lters can be used to ensure that only those places which matter to you are displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks. Point your phones web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now.

THE NEW iN yOUR pOCKET


Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, we have taken on board hundreds of comments we have received over the past few years to come up with a new format for our guides to make them more dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we now emphasise the very best a city has to oer, while still ensuring that we point your way to all of those quirky, o-the-beaten track places you will not nd in any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope that the changes are met with approval by all our readers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be they good or bad or indierent. Only by listening to our readers can we make In Your Pocket even better. Send your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email address editor@inyourpocket.com, and follow us on both Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) to keep up with all the latest developments at In Your Pocket.

ONE OF THE BEST

The UK newspaper The Independent recently published a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: inyourpocket.com was the third name on that list. This is what the newspaper had to say about us: Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so), the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities have been given the In Your Pocket treatment, and all the key content from the print editions has been collated on this well-organised and userfriendly website. It also includes a series of YouTube vignettes.

Rynok Square

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February - March 2014

Arriving & Getting Around


By pLaNE
DaNYLO HaLYtsKYi LViV INteRNatiONaL AiRpORt When travellers referred to the Lviv International Airport it was usually in the context of either a twisted joke or a terrifying tale. Time changes; and in April 2012 Lviv got the newly renovated Terminal. All in glass and steel in 14km west of the city centre, Danylo Halytskyi Lviv International became much better and pleasant. Getting around the citys gateway will not take you any eorts, signs both in English and Ukrainian show the way and nothing here diers from most of ne European airports. Tourist information booth is located on the ground oor, with an information desk, customs, telephones, lost and found, car rental booths, rst aid, 24 hour police services, waiting rooms, ATMs and a currency exchange. There are cafs in both check-in and departing zones and airline ticketing booths can also be found in the terminal. Lost and found tel. (+380) 32 229 83 19. QLubynska 168, tel. (+380) 32 229 81 12, www.lwo.aero. W Getting to town Taxis stands outside the main entrance of the aiport. The 70-80Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap for Ukraine, but the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1,25Hr) or marshrutka 48 (2Hr). Its about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 minutes by trolleybus. trip to centre should cost around 30Hr and Lvivs cabbies are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other major Ukrainian cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies is bustling with busses and mini-busses, most of which connect to outlaying cities, towns and villages. Your best public transport option is tram No. 1, which heads directly to centre. The same tram with a dierent name, No. 9, takes passengers in the opposite direction from centre to the train station.

By BUS
StRYisKYi AVtOVOKZaL All international buses arrive at Stryiskyi Avtovokzal; however, some buses, including routes from Warsaw and Krakow, may make a rst stop in centre not far from Shevchenka prosp. Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus station, ticket oces and schedules are located on the ground oor. Upstairs youll nd a waiting hall, a small hotel and a cafeteria. To nd the left-luggage oce, head downstairs from the central hall. QStryiska 109, tel. (+380) 32 294 98 17, www.bus.com. ua, Open 24hrs. Getting to town Stryiskyi Avtovokzal is located relatively far from the city centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest option; depending on your haggling skills, fares are available for as little as 50Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trolleybus No. 5 to Shota Rustaveli Street (I-4) for the meagre fare of 1,25Hr. Though it may be cramped, marshrutkas No. 7, 37, 57 and 71 shuttle passengers to centre for 2Hr. Bus No. 18 connects Stryiskyi Avtovokzal with Lviv Holovnyi Train Station.

By TRaiN
LViV HOLOVNYi TRaiN StatiON With platforms wrapped in lofty steel awnings, run down trains and suspicious glances, arriving to Lvivs central rail station can be like stepping into a Cold War era spy movie. Once the nostalgia has worn o, exit the platforms by proceeding down the stairs then follow the exit signs to the stations halls. A currency exchange ( ), ticketing booths () and schedules are located in the main hall. There is also a oor plan displayed of available services if you happen to get disoriented. Purchase international tickets from booth No. 2. (Quiet please, the street dogs huddled in the corner are trying to sleep.) Proceed through the corridor past hall No. 2 for a currency exchange and a news stand that sells maps of Lviv. There are three left luggage ( ) areas/lockers available in the right wing. No. 1 is the largest and is the only post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the size of your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr per day. Police services are also located in the right wing. Toilets are scattered throughout the building. The easiest to nd are located in the corridors leading to the platforms. QF-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 748 20 68. Getting to town Getting from the station to centre is relatively easy. Taxis are abundant near the main exit. A gauntlet of taxi drivers await at the exit of the main hall. A 6 Lviv In Your Pocket

PUBLic TRaNSpORT
Almost all Lviv sights and places of interest are within easy walking distance for even the most unt and/or laziest of people. However there is a wide web of trolleybuses (electric buses), trams (streetcars), buses, microbuses and minivans, which sometimes (especially in rush hours) are overcrowded. Dont take the jostling personally, dont inhale too deeply but do give up your seat to the elderly and mothers with children. Trolleybuses and trams are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They wont get you anywhere in a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can be purchased for 1.50Hr from conductors and the driver on board. You should immediately validate your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets around you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a ne. All tickets are good for one journey only. The privately-owned marshrutkas () or route taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along specied routes. Many run the same routes as trolleys or trams and use the same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main stops posted on the vehicles windshield or side window lviv.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around


before it speeds by. Marshrutkas will denitely get you from A to B faster than other forms of municipal transport, as they are smaller and more manoeuvrable; an important feature on Lvivs narrow roads. Just ag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver na zupyntsi, budlaska (on the stop, please) when youve had enough. Fares are paid as you board and currently costs 2Hr.

BUyiNG TRaiN TicKETS


For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of ticket oces (kasy) at the train station. The sta does not speak English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/ Russian. It is a good idea to get know the train number in advance and write in on a piece of paper, together with the departure date and time. Dont bother to learn the Ukrainian alphabet, write down the destination city name in English as well as your name. You might be asked to provide a passport when boarding. Thanks to EURO2012 we nally have English almost everywhere. Visit booking.uz.gov.ua/ en/ for train schedule and ticket booking.

CaR RENTaL
AVis QPidstryhacha 6, tel. (+380) 67 230 33 49, lviv@avis. com.ua, www.avis.com.ua, Open 07:00 - 22:00. AL EUROpcaR QLypynskoho 36, tel. (+380) 32 294 89 94, lviv@autodrive.com.ua, www.europcar.ua, Open 09:00 - 18:00. A Also at Lviv International Airport, tel. 0 32 229 87 87. HeRtZ ReNt a CaR QLubynska 168A, Lviv International Airport, Trustan Hotel, tel. (+380) 32 297 00 52, lviv@hertz.ua, www. hertz.ua, Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PAL SiXt ReNt a caR QLubynska 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. (+380) 32 255 61 01, www.sixt.ua, Open 09:00 - 18:00. AL

TaXi
EXpRess Qtel. (+380) 67 67 00 086/(+380) 32 244 60 86, fax (+380) 50 94 44 086. OptYmaL Qtel. (+380) 67 607 4 242/(+380) 32 242 8 242. RadiO TaXi Qtel. (+380) 67 908 10 81, fax (+380) 503 73 00 81.

departure date

departure time

number of the carriage (vagon)

number of the train to/from stations seat/berth number passengers name final price arriving date and time

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February - March 2014

City Basics
CRimE aND SaFETy
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Lviv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, ashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, its a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.

LViV, LVOV, LWW


Throughout its history, Lviv has had several names. The city was known as Lww when the Poles ruled, the Austro-Hungarian Empire called it Lemberg and Jewish residents referred to it as Lemberik. Currently, many languages have their own spelling and pronunciation. This is the case with Lviv (Ukrainian) and Lvov (Russian). As the city immerged to become the centre of Ukrainian language and culture in the 1990s, the Ukrainian version became increasingly common and useful, i.e. using Lviv while searching the Internet will denitely result in more hits..

CUSTOmS
If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, though a customs ocer has the right to ask you to make a written declaration in relation to them. A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed 200. However, food products should not total more than two kilogrammes, and there should not be more than one package of the same product. Goods with a total value of less than 1000 may be brought in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods is greater than 1000, but less than 10000 they will need to be declared on a customs personal declaration form and you should pay 10% duty plus 20% VAT. If the value of the goods is greater than 10000, the goods will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import declaration requirements for imported cargo. Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any international alert and you have documents which prove your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (J-3, Smolskoho 10, tel. (+380) 322 75 80 81/72 79 91.) All customs declarations, lled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost.

BaSic DaTa
Lviv Population 761 929 Ukraine Population 45 553 000 Ethnic composition Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. Territory 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas). The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south. Borders Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km. Rivers Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Buh, Danube. Highest point Mount Hoverla 2,061m. Local time All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.

MONEy
The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Dont be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You havent been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. Youll have no problem nding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If its travellers checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can nd a number of ATMs around Lviv and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. lviv.inyourpocket.com

DRiNKiNG
Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can nd their favourites at ner shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which ows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if oered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether its Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to oer a toast at some point. A modest cheers (budmo) will do for a foreigner. 8 Lviv In Your Pocket

City Basics
SmOKiNG
Youre never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesnt seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city. But a new more rigorous law on smoking prohibition takes eect nationwide on December 16, 2012. It sets a total ban on smoking in restaurants, bars, clubs and cafes (except open terraces), cultural, medical, educational and sport institutions (including playgrounds and stadiums), public transport (including stops), underpasses (subways), and inside apartment buildings (including stairs and lifts). All other premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, airports, railway terminals) should have designated smoking areas equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets nes from 5110,000Hr for anyone breaking the law.

TOURiST INFORmaTiON
Tourist information centre provides information in English, German, Italian, Czech, Polish, Ukrainian and Russian. Services: free city maps, free walking tours, brochures, information about city attractions and current events, accommodation, transport connections and dining advises. QC-3, Rynok pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 254 60 79, tic@cityadm.lviv.ua, www.touristinfo.lviv.ua, Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Also at Lviv International Airport (Terminal A) (+380) 67 673 91 94, Mon-Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00; Lviv Holovnyi Train Station (main hall) (+380) 32 226 20 05, Mon-Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Tourist information centre

ViSaS
Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia, Mongolia, the U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to ll in an immigration card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional information, call (+380) 32 275 24 63.

MaRKET VaLUES
How do costs compare to back home? Heres a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonalds Big Mac 18,00Hr 1,78 $2,25 Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr 0,32 $0,40 Snickers bar 6,00Hr5 0,59 $0,75 Litre of vodka 50,00Hr5 4,94 $6,26 Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr 0,49 $0,62 20 Marlboros 013,50Hr 1,33 $1,69 Public transport ticket 1,25Hr 0,12 $0,16 1 litre of petrol (euro 3)5 10,50Hr 1,04 $1,31 Ocial exchange rates (as of February 1): 1 10.78Hr US$1 7.99Hr 51 13.06Hr Banks exchange rates (as of February 1): 1 11.70Hr US$1 8.60Hr 51 14.00Hr facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national medical insurance, and must register their passports with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380) 322 37 27 30. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form and photos. For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call (+380) 44 234 00 40. Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are allowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For more information call the following consulates: Polish (+380) 322 97 08 61, Hungarian (+380) 322 64 58 22, Slovakian consulate in Kyiv (+380) 44 234 06 06. February - March 2014 9

Bukovel
THE BESt UKRAINIAN SKI RESORt

Bukovel
Located in the Ivano-Frankivsk region, 30km west of Yaremche Bukovel is Ukraines largest ski resort. With high-speed chair lifts, meticulously groomed slopes, snow-making machines and ubiquitous security personnel, it is also Ukraines rst European-class resort. Indeed, its rather unusual to see this degree of organisation in Ukraine. Bukovel has been carefully planned to make skiing enjoyable and convenient - queues longer than ve minutes are rare. This mountain is booming! Over the next few seasons Bukovel plans to have 278km of trails and 35 lifts, which would make it one of the 20 largest ski resorts in the world. At the start of this season, 16 lifts and 50km of runs were available. Check out their website for more information including current snow conditions. dren and super-beginners, all levels of intermediate runs and several black diamond runs for experts and the idiotic brave. Night skiing is available from 17:00 - 20:00; however, only one upper intermediate slope is currently equipped with lights. For more information check out the trail map at bukovel.com/en/map. Blue indicates beginner slopes, red are intermediate and black are advanced.

SKi RENTaL
Five rental shops are at your service and are located near lower lifts No. 1, 2, 5 and 7. These centres are also equipped with storage rooms, lockers, showers, bathrooms and skiservice centres (open 08:45 - 17:00). All skis are relatively new, in excellent condition and rent from 80-260Hr. Snowboard sets go for 80-140Hr. As collateral you must leave a passport, drivers license or a deposit of 2500-9000Hr. Snowmobiles are also available for rent.

GETTiNG THERE
From Kyiv and Lviv, the trains can take you to IvanoFrankivsk. From Ivano-Frankivsk you can go by taxi, bus or marshrutka (110km). If you drive (not recommended), its best to travel via Ivano-Frankivsk. Then proceed through the towns of Nadvirna and Yaremche, then through the villages of Mykulychyn, Tatariv and Polyanytsya. Follow the signs to Bukovel. Free parking is available.

LiFT paSSES
Prices at Bukovel are considerably higher than elsewhere in Ukraine. One lift ride costs 35-40Hr. Passes can be bought for 3 hours, full-day, several days or the entire season. Fullday passes (good for all lifts) cost 336-396Hr. The popular 5 days ride pass costs 1132Hr and 1524Hr for the holiday season. Almost all of the lifts are chair lifts and a few are tows. Lift passes can be purchased in several places around the base of the mountain. More details on www.bukovel.com/en

SKi SLOpES
Bukovels base elevation is nearly 900m above sea level, and the highest ski lift rises to 1372m, making it the second highest ski resort in Ukraine. All categories of slope diculty are available. There is a very long gradual slope that is perfect for beginners, a couple of short tows for chil-

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February - March 2014

11

Events

14-16 FEBRUARY 2014 7th NatiONaL ChOcOLate Fest Chocolate Fest welcomes all sweets lovers to immerse themselves into the world of harmony and chocolate art! Every year the territory, where Chocolate Festival takes place, is full of various attractions that can catch the interest of anyone who loves chocolate, chocolate artists, producers, as well as chocolatiers, who want to share their art with gourmets. This year the Chocolate Fest is appointed on St. Valentines Day. Thus the key event is Valentines Fair with incredible variety of chocolates. Also you are invited to attend the Chocolate City of Lviv, Chocolate Clock, Fashion Week style party and unique Chocolate Wedding. The art workshop Children Chocolate Country will oer the master classes to younger participants. Q Lviv Palace of Art, Kopernyka 17. For more information call (+380) 32 235 77 88 or visit www.shokolad.lviv.ua. 14 FEBRUARY2014, 22:00 LOVe Fest 2014 - Biggest LOVe PaRtY iN LViV The Gooch Brown Agency gives the incredible gift to all lovers on St.Valentines Day. The best DJs of Lviv and Ukraine will perform on the one stage. Q Moloko Night Club, prosp. Svobody 16-18. Tickets 40-50Hr. 9-10 MARCH 2014 TaRas SheVcheNKO DaYs iN LViV Around the city centre Lviv lasts the long tradition of celebrating the anniversary of the undoubtedly the most famous Ukrainian in the world. The traditional centre of it is the square around the monument to Taras Shevchenko. Everybody is invited to listen to his poetry and songs. The contest of

the modern art devoted to Taras Shevchenko will start in March and nished in May. Q Events around the city. ww.cultureandtourism.lviv.ua 22-26 MARCH 2014 LViV FashiON WeeK Lviv Fashion Week which takes place twice per year is considered one of the largest fashion events in Eastern Europe. Since March 2008, when the rst Lviv Fashion Week took place the prominent couturiers Kenzo Takada, JeanPaul Gautier, Donald Potar and Vyacheslav Zaytsev visited it. Besides fashion shows the Lviv Fashion Week hosts the exhibition of the modern art to complement the general creative atmosphere. Q Shuvar Expo Centre, Khutorivka 4, www.lvivfashionweek.com.

ART GaLLERiES
ARt-11 QC-3, pl. Rynok 37, tel. (+380) 32 274 03 67, www.art-11. lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Admission is free. ChaOs QC-4, Ruska 12, tel. (+380) 67 670 03 87, art-xaoc.org.ua, Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00, Admission is free. DZYga QC-3, Virmenska 35, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 12, Open 10:00 - 22:00, Admission is free. GaLLeRY Of UKRaiNaiN MiLitaRY UNifORm QC-3, pl. Rynok 40, tel. (+380) 32 297 51 93, Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Admission is free.

12 Lviv In Your Pocket

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Events
GeRdaN QC-4, Ruska 4, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 46, Open 12:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun, Admission is free. GReeN SOfa GaLLeRY QVirmenska 7, tel. (+380) 32 235 75 49, artgreensofa@bigmir.net, www.artgreensofa.com, Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. A IcONaRt The gallery represents modern sacred art. QC-3, Virmenska 26, tel. (+380) 32 235 52 95, www.iconart.com.ua, Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. LViV ARt GaLLeRY QA-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 39 48, lvivgallery. org, Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00, Admission 10Hr, children 2Hr. Friday is free for students. MUseUm Of Ideas QValova 18A, tel. (+380) 32 295 69 68, fax (+380) 32 254 61 55, idem.org@gmail.com, www.idem.org.ua, Open 11:00 - 19:00. PORY ROKU (SeasONs) QC-3, Virmenska 23, tel. (+380) 32 235 44 65, Open 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Admission is free. ZeLeNa KaNapa QC-3, Virmenska 7, tel. (+380) 32 235 75 49.

OpERa & BaLLET


February Opera 6 18:00 7 18:00 8 18:00 9 18:00 13 18:00 16 12:00 20 18:00 22 18:00 23 18:00

27 18:00 Ballet 9 14 16 21 23 28 12:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 12:00 18:00

Natalka Poltavka M. Lysenko. Madame Buttery G. Puccuni. Lelisir damore G. Donizetti. Rigoletto G. Verdi. Orpheo ed Euridice Ch. W. Gluck. Iolanta P. Tchaikovsky. Traviatta G. Verdi. Tosca G. Puccuni. A Zaporozhian Cossack Beyond the Danube S.Hulak-Artemoskiy. Der Zigeunerbaron J. Strauss II. Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs B.Pavlovskyy. One act ballet. Le Corsaire A. Adam. The Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky. Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs B. Pavlovsky. Don Quixote L.Minkus.

CiNEmaS
KiNOpaLace (3D) QB-3, Teatralna 22, tel. (+380) 32 297 50 50/(+380) 32 297 50 05, www.kinopalace.lviv.ua, Open 09:00 - 24:00, Tickets 20-60Hr. KiNOpaLace KOpeRNYK QB-5, Kopernyka 9, tel. (+380) 32 240 37 69. PLaNeta KiNO (IMAX/3D) QStryiska 30, Sokilnyky, King Cross Leopolis, tel. 0 800 300 600, Open 10:00 - 02:00.

SOLOmiYa KRUsheLNYtsKa OpeRa aNd BaLLet TheatRe QA-3, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 90/(+380) 32 242 11 63, www.opera.lviv.ua, Open . Closed Mon, Tue, Tickets 40-200 Hr.

THEaTRES
FiRst UKRaiNiaN TheatRe fOR ChiLdReN aNd YOUth QA-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 11, tel. (+380) 32 272 68 41, www.nashteatr.lviv.ua, Open . Closed Mon. Les KURbas LViV Academic TheatRe QA-3, Lesia Kurbasa 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 49 14/(+380) 32 272 48 24, n.kurbas.lviv.ua, Tickets 55-60Hr. LViV RegiONaL DOLL TheatRe QC-2, Danyla Halytskoho pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 58 32. MaRia ZaNKOVetsKa NatiONaL Academic UKRaiNiaN DRama TheatRe QB-2, Lesi Ukrainky 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 55 83, www.zankovetska.com.ua, Open . Closed Mon, Tickets 20-50Hr. VOsKResiNNYa TheatRe QH-2, Henerala Hryhorenka pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 274 13 00, Open . Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Tickets 10-30Hr. February - March 2014 13

CULTURE cENTRES
BRitish COUNciL QH-3, Universytetska 1, Lviv National University, tel. (+380) 322 39 45 52, info@britishcouncil.org.ua, www. britishcouncil.org, Open Mon, Thu 14:30 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 15:00, Wed 14:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. GOethe-INstitUte QH-3, Universytetska 1, Lviv National University, tel. (+380) 32 239 47 67, fax (+380) 32 239 46 29, lwiw@slz. org.ua, www.goethe.de/ins/ua/prj/slz/lwi/ukindex. LViV State PaLace QI-4, Petrushevycha pl. 2, tel. (+380) 32 275 32 47, Open 17:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

Eat
AmERicaN
TeX-MeX BBQ A real American restaurant owned and operated by Mike from Colorado. The Ukrainian sta is all uent in English and the service & quality of food is 100% USA standard. The purpose of Tex Mex BBQ is simply for Ukrainians to experience America. Country music is played throughout the restaurant as well as outside. There are two rooms with dierent themes, the Texas room & the Mexican room - all simply yet practically furnished. The menu is not large, but enough choices to make one ponder. The Mexican choices are tacos, burritos, frijoles refritos, guacamole, etc. Then there are the Texan choices with the house speciality being barbecued ribs with Mikes own secret sauce - for 75Hr a portion. Two side dishes come with every order at no extra cost. An average complete meal runs around 80-100Hr. QB-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 17 72, denvermike99@ yahoo.com, Open 16:00 - 23:00. PTA6GSW The GRiLL Steak, Wok, and Roll! The old saying it seems to melt in your mouth certainly applies here. The menus, in English, have pictures and graphic illustrations. There is a large Drink menu oering delicious homemade beer. The sushi menu has dishes listed with names of some U.S. cities and states. Prices range from 55-95 Hr per serving with huge combo platters from 399-880 Hr. The steak menu has diagrams and explanations of dierent cuts of meat. Steaks range from 25-35Hr per 100g. We tried the sirloin, rare. There are also BBQ, Lamb, and mixed dishes on this menu. There is also a pizza menu. The sh and poultry menu as well as the soup, salad, and side order menus are divided into East and West; East for Oriental West for U.S. Country style. QB-3, Teatralna 22, Kinopalace Cinema, tel. (+380) 32 235 49 91, www.thegrill.com.ua, Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAEGW

ARmENiaN
KRaKiVsKa BRama Though European, Carpathian (Hutsul) and Ukrainian are all represented on the menu, the delicious authentic Armenian is what sets this place apart. We recommend taking a seat in the basement near the avourful mangal (grill), where chefs meticulously roast Lulya kabob, mutton shashlyk, sea trout and other traditional delicacies. If you would like to keep the good times rolling after hours, it will set you back 150Hr per hour. Also, its denitely worth keeping this eatery in mind for breakfast; the omelettes and crpes come with complimentary tea and toast. Banquets can be organised for up to 50, and tour groups are welcome to place orders in advance. QB-3, Krakivska 5, tel. (+380) 32 236 72 73, Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAUIGBS TaRON A short drive outside the centre brings one to this beautifully decorated restaurant. The sta speak English and the menu is also in English oering Armenian, Georgian, Caucasian, and European dishes. Prices are a bit pricy but well worth it. There are large seating areas both smoking and non smoking and 6 outside dining bungalows. QKuznevycha 16A, tel. (+380) 32 237-70-35, restaron@gmail.com, taron.lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 23:00. PTALEGBSW lviv.inyourpocket.com

SYMBOL KEy
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino T Child-friendly F Fitness centre H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace B Outside seating J Old town location C Swimming pool W Wi

14 Lviv In Your Pocket

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ASiaN
AROma Caf When nearby Potocki Palace, we highly advise you to step in this new restaurant, which quickly became popular among locals. It has nice modern interior and original menu with meat dishes from oriental cuisine. There is a good choice of ve types of breakfasts from 23Hr and three types of lunches from 35Hr. For particularly hungry we recommend Tom Yan Thai soup with veal. You can also enjoy a Black Burger - an exclusive in Lviv, made with cuttlesh ink. Meat lovers will appreciate the wide range of meat dishes on the grill, soups and salads. In short, this is a great option where you can just sit and have a meal with friends. The stu speaks English and a menu in English is available. QB-5, Kopernyka 11, tel. (+380) 96 811 65 93, Open 10:00 - 22:00. PASW PeKiNg This is about as authentic as it gets here. The dcor is traditional Asian and in the back is a grill built into a huge table Japanese style. The cuisine is a mix of Chinese and Japanese. We enjoyed the Lotus Flower veal with sweet pepper in a spicy sauce for 79Hr. For a small party there is a Peking duck at 470Hr a kilo. There is seating for 50 and all speak a bit of English.QI-4, Hrushevskoho 8, tel. (+380) 32 260 22 07, www.pekin.lviv.ua. Open 17:00 - 23:00. PASW

BREWERy
KUmpeL The centrepiece of this lively restaurant is the two large vats where Kumpel beer is brewed. Its denitely worth your time to sample all three varieties (dark, light and red). We were particularly impressed by the incredibly fresh and lively light. The menu is loaded with steaks, seafood and beer munchies. For exceptional service, just push the little call button. QD-5, Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 80, Open 11:00 - 24:00. PAGBS KUmpeL New The rst thing that struck us was the size and design. It is a large-high ceiling with dark wooden tables and chairs, and a Hi-tech design. Then the music hit us. It was something we never heard before; Polish/Ukrainian music from the 1920s. The kitchen is Galician/Polish with some very unusual items. We tried the banosh - a maize porridge for 50Hr. There are savoury pies and home-made sausages of beef, pork, turkey, and chicken that you can have with home-made bread. A complete meal will cost between 150-250Hr. Some of their delicious home-made items are available in the souvenir shop downstairs which you must visit anyway as it is the entrance to the restaurant. QB-1, prosp. Chornovola 2B, tel. (+380) 32 229 51 77, www. kumpel.biz. Open 11:00 - 00:00.PAEGW

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PaNORama RESTaURaNT
ARseNaL MUseUm RestaURaNt It is like walking into a medieval museum without having to pay. It is an authentically restored hall in the medieval theme. There are knights in shining armour on display along with swords, spears, and other medieval weapons. The decor is matching medieval and the menu is European and Ukrainian. The prices are quite reasonable with a complete meal costing around 150Hr. There are discount for groups as well. There is seating for 100 with live music nightly from 21:00. Sometimes there are guest performers from the Lviv Philharmonic Orchestra. QD-4, Pidvalna 5, tel. (+380) 67 372 44 55, www. arsenal.lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 01:00. PAGSW AtmOspheRa For Ukrainians, atmosphere is everything. Current dining trends represent a revolt against the drab stand-up Soviet lunch counters and cafs that were once the only option. Atmosphera oers creative Euro cuisine to go with the ultra-chic ambiance. The menu features steaks (pork and veal) and intriguing dishes such as Mafaldine pasta with cold smoked salmon, red caviar, cream and parmesan cheese. This venue also houses a business meeting room and a popular pub/club. QC-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 18, tel. (+380) 32 235 88 99/(+380) 67 313 06 26, www.atmosphera.lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. ESW CasaNOVa Travel back to Venice in the time of Giacomo Girolamo Casanova who was so famous as a womanizer that his name remains synonymous with the art of seduction. This is a combination restaurant-strip club. The outside terrace area (seasonal) appears to be a normal restaurant. Inside, one is stuck with the beauty of early Venice. A great eatery in the day time with erotic shows at night beginning at 23:00. The sta was quite friendly and spoke some English. There is an Italian-European menu with a businessmans lunch from Monday to Friday for only 45Hr as well as a tourist menu for groups making advanced bookings. QC-3, Stavropihiyska 7, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 74, Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAIGSW DaRwiN The name Darwin was chosen not only as a tribute to the father of evolutionary theory but as a symbolic statement announcing the embodiment of the evolution and renement of Lvivs restaurant scene. Located on the fth and sixth oor of a renovated historic structure, the elegant atmosphere is framed by enticing views of surrounding ancient roof tops. The menu contains one of the most elaborate seafood selections found in the city with fried dorado, calamari, sea bass and savoury salmon dishes. Theres also an enticingly unique oering of game such as wild boar under cherry sauce and wine basted venison. Popular with locals and tourists alike, Darwin tends to be busy on the weekends making advanced booking the way to go. QB-3, Shevska 6, 5th oor, tel. (+380) 32 294 82 05, Open 12:00 - 24:00. PASW

Located on the seventh oor of the Opera Hotel, this restaurant oers an unmatched view of the Opera house and Lvivs historical centre. The large panoramic terrace and window-side tables are extremely popular. Booking ahead will insure a spectacular evening. The menu sounds like poetry: Veal medallions with Demi glac cream and grilled vegetables. The Caesar salad has procured a cult following and Italian Minestrone soup with rosemary is unbelievably rich and tasty. If youre hopping to spark a new romance or just kick start an old love, Panorama is the obvious place to make it happen. QA-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) 32 225 90 09/(+380) 50 315 12 34, panorama.lviv.ua, Open 07:00 - 01:00. PTALEGBSW

CZEcH
PRaga (PRagUe) The interior of this popular Czech restaurant is decorated in Art Nouveau and is set-o by reproductions of the tastefully provocative art of Alphonse Mucha. There is an English menu and the professional English speaking sta is at your service to help with your selection. Praga knows how to roast (especially pork) and all dishes swim in rich avour. QA-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32 260 24 42, www.praga.lviv.ua, Open 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEGSW

EUROpEaN
AmadeUs Near the Latin Cathedral - one of the most beautiful Lviv Catholic churches and right in the heart of the city, a covered summer terrace of this popular restaurant catches the eye immediately. With one of the most eclectic menus of Galicia, its hard to go wrong and the pork steak Amadeus comes highly recommended. Familiarity in service standards, a fantastic breakfast/brunch menu and a posh but not too over the top atmosphere make this a popular expat haunt. It is also a favourite place of many politicians, businessmen and diplomats. US ambassador to Ukraine likes visiting Amadeus while staying in Lviv. QC-4, Katedralna pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 50 22, Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAB 16 Lviv In Your Pocket

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GaRmata Located at the enthralling Citadel Inn, this elegant restaurant oers an inspiring panorama of Lviv, excellent European cuisine and a spacious dining hall with unforgettable ambiance reminiscent of 19th century Austria. The walls are decorated in various historical themes, and the engrossing decorative rugs display ancient maps of Lviv. Though this is one of Lvivs romantic hotspots, it is also ideal for banquets, business meetings and hooking up with friends. The citadels cannons are red on special occasions, and a childrens room is also available. QH-4, Hrabovskoho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295 82 22, www.citadelinn.com.ua, Open 07:00 - 24:00. PALGSW GOURmet HOUse This restaurant was a rare nd for us. The menu is not huge, but the portions certainly are. The dishes come with 2 side dishes and are a complete meal in themselves - for just 35-50Hr. We had the beef-steak with potatoes and salad for 50Hr and could barley nish it. There are also great pizzas for between 34-41Hr, salads around 40Hr, and soups about 30Hr. For a meal for 2 we paid less than half of what we usually pay. The place is warm and cosy seating around 30. I suggest coming in a bit before or after the lunch rush as it is quite busy then. The sta is friendly and communicates quite well in English. Q B-3, Krakivska 30, tel. (+380) 32 235 78 02. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAG SW. facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

HRUsheVsKY CiNema JaZZ Have you ever worried that you were not going to nish your dinner in time for the movie you wanted to see? Here the movie screen is in the restaurant. Current lms are shown nightly at 19:30 (mostly Ukrainian language lms) while you enjoy a wide choice of Ukrainian or European cuisine. Their steaks are very good and do not forget to sample their homemade liqueurs (nastoyanky)! There is seating for 180 with an average meal costing around 180Hr. Breakfast is served from 09:00-12:00 for just 35Hr and business lunch from 12:0016:00 for 65Hr. Downstairs is a jazz club about the same size as the upstairs room. There is live music nightly from 20:0022:00. QC-6, Shevchenka prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 32 236 04 25, www.hrushevsky.com.ua, www.cinemajazz.com.ua, Open 09:00 - 02:00. PAEGSW MisKO PstRUg & PetRO BRatVaNKa. PstRUg, WiNe & BRead If you are looking for something dierent and uncomplicated this is the place. There is bread and wine as the name implies. The bread is wood fried in a stone pizza type of oven. It is served with various toppings beginning from 15Hr. There is a good wine list to choose from, the speciality being young French wine. Another speciality aside from bread is their baked trout for just 69Hr. There are some great salads as well. It is a rustic type of design and holds 200 with seating outside in good weather.QD4, I-3, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 49, tel. (+380) 50 373 96 54. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PAGW. February - March 2014 17

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NOstaLgia This is actually a proper restaurant located on a side street from the market square. (Ploshcha Rynok).There is a comfortable atmosphere this candle lit two room restaurant. The interior is as the name suggests nostalgic and deemed reminiscent of France in the early 1900ss. The sta is friendly and try to communicate in English There is an English menu which lists many Ukrainian and international dishes or lets say their own variation of Dutch, French, German, and Spanish dishes; Liver Berlin style, Chicken Curry Madrid way, Salmon French style, and Jerusalem carp, just to name a few. Exotic appetisers include tongue, brain, and Dutch Fondue. There is also a very busy banquet room. Prices are very reasonable and it is a great place to visit.QC-4, Serbska 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 77 50. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW PeRsha KLiasa (FiRst CLass) A great eatery right in the centre on the main square. We sat out on the terrace enjoying the sights. Inside is beautifully designed with wood and lots of space. The cuisine is International/Ukrainian. All in English with many yummy choices. A specialty is the llet mignon for just 37Hr per 100g. An average meal will run you about 200-250Hr There is also a great Business Lunch from 12:00-16:00 which costs us 61Hr with a drink. We especially enjoyed the fresh mixed salad which was so simple, yet so tasty. QC-3, Ploscha Rynok 39, tel. (+380) 32 235 71 75, www. lviv.virtual.ua. Open 10:00 - 24:00. ShaKespeaRe Shakespeare fans this is for you! A restaurant dedicated to the Bard. Located near the airport, with lovely gardens, and outdoor dining bungalows, it is an experience worth having. The sta is dressed in kilts and the menu caters to many nationalities. There are 2 large dining rooms with smoking and non-smoking areas. They even sell copies of Shakespeares greatest works! QLyubinska 144, tel. (+380) 32 295 52 95, fax (+380) 32 295 48 68, info@shekspir.lviv.ua, www.shekspir.lviv.ua. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PA6UILEGBSW TeRaZZa We never saw Lviv like this - A 360 panorama view of the city. The restaurant is on the top oor of St.Feder Hotel with oor to ceiling windows. The decor is white, bright, and modern with a formal yet comfortable atmosphere. The cuisine is Italian/European with an average meal running around 175Hr.QB-2, I-2, Zvenyhorodska pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 297 00 00, fax (+380) 32 297 00 15, reservation.stfeder@gmail.com, www.stfeder.com/en/restaurant-terrazza. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAEGW The LiONs CastLe Located in the basement of the Lions Castle Hotel, the reasonable prices and large portions justify the 20 minute walk from old town. The juicy Lions Castle pork special, for example, is a whopping 450 grams and will set you back a mere ten bucks. Theres enough variety on the menu to appeal to just lviv.inyourpocket.com

MON Chef This is a great meat restaurant located within the Astoria Hotel with its own separate entrance. But if you look at the prices, they are not what one would expect from a Hotel restaurant. They are actually quite aordable. We had the Filet Mignon steak from the Josper grill for just 270Hr. A complete meal here will cost about 350Hr. It is quaint and comfortable seating 50 and the service is superb.QA-3, Horodotska 15, tel. (+380) 32 242 27 07, www.monchef. com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAULW NaYdOROZhcha RestORatsiYa HaLYchYNY (The MOst EXpeNsiVe GaLiciaN RestaURaNt) At rst we thought that the word Expensive was a mistranslation, but then we opened the menuDont be frightened by the prices, if you show interest in the restaurants Masonic theme, your waiter is likely to give you a 10 times cheaper discount card. Besides, we are convinced that the food and fascinating ambiance are well worth the insane prices. As we entered, an attendant dressed us in the Masonic apron, and then introduced this fascinating cult. It was quite revealing how inuential the Masons have been in shaping world history. Benjamin Franklin, George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Peter the Great and local heroes Mykhailo Hrushevsky and Ivan Franko were all Masons. The centrepiece is an antique piano on which a pianist performs Friday - Sunday from 20:00 - 23:00.QC-4, Rynok pl. 14, tel. (+380) 50 430 87 83. Open 11:00 - 02:00. . PAGW 18 Lviv In Your Pocket

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about everyone. Creamy soups, crpes and salmon dishes are particularly appealing. The breakfast buet is popular with hotel guests, so arrive early if youre hoping to get a good seat. QG-5, Glinky 7, tel. (+380) 32 238 61 16, www.lioncastlehotel.com/en. Open 08:00 - 22:00. PALG TRapeZNa The meaning of Trapenza is monks eating room. Located in the cellar of a former monastery, this is really traditional Ukrainian food at its best with low prices. The menu is in a metal book and in English. Drinks are served in old wooden cups and sometimes one hears the Ghost walking about late at night! There is also an adjoining art gallery and outside seating as well. A real experience!QI-3, Valova 18A, tel. (+380) 32 295 69 68, fax (+380) 32 254 61 55, idem.org@gmail.com, www.idem.org.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. T6GBW TRY MitLY (ThRee BROOms) Dont be surprised if Harry Potter or one of his companions is standing in the doorway. The theme is Harry Potter through and through. It is basically a family restaurant with costumes and magic wands given to children to use during their stay. There are copies of some of the props used in the lms, and there is memorabilia scattered throughout. There are lessons given in wizardry and many HP fans visit from abroad. The food is prepared by an elf and the dishes all have names related to wizardry and sorcery (soon in English). An average meal goes for about 100-150Hr. Seating for 30+.QI-2, Yavorskoho 1, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 55/ (+380) 67 374 50 04. Open 12:00 - 23:00. VeLYKa TaRiLKa (The Big PLate) As the name implies, there are large portions served here. However, one may have a choice of two or even three different sizes on every dish which helps when travelling on a budget. The menu is European/Ukrainian with lots of yummy pizzas on oer. There is a wide variety of beer available and tasty snacks to go with your beer. We found the beef steak marinated in herbs a great choice; The price- 70hr for the XL and 85Hr for the XXL. They have great pancakes and deserts too. The business lunch is served from 12:00-16:00 and cost just 35Hr - without drinks. There are several options to choose from and the portions are big..QC-4, I-3, Valova 13, tel. (+380) 32 235 63 17, www.big-plate.com.ua. Open 24hrs. ViNtage Though selective, the menu holds nothing back. Start with the spicy Thai veal salad or Mediterranean salad with salmon and red caviar, drown you taste buds in the seafood goulash soup or pot-au-feu, then savour the Carpathian trout in an olive and caper sauce or slurp down some pasta with your choice of the chefs signature sauces. Like the hotel, the restaurant is quaint but classy and the hidden wine cellar is an absolute gem. With seating for up to eight, its a perfect place to unwind and sample a select vintage from the hotels collection.QC-4, Staroyevreyska 25-27, Vintage Hotel, tel. (+380) 32 235 68 34, www.vintagehotel.com. ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. AGBW facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

FaST FOOD & SaNDWicHES


AcROpOLis This small gem was a great nd. It is located on a beautiful square in the centre of the old city. There are only 4 tables so we had to come back and take a chance at a later time. We were glad we did! The menu is limited, but its real Greek Food at very reasonable prices. We were told that when the weather warms up, they put many tables outside and then they add moussaka and other items to the menu. A great place to eat or just have a drink and spend time with your friends.Q-3, Rynok pl. 44, tel. (+380) 67 463 09 06. Open 11:00 - 22:00. GBW BageL caf A truly great experience! It brought back memories of our father taking us to a deli in the Fairfax district of Los Angeles when we were kids. This little caf is about a 10 minute walk from the centre and well worth the trek. All bagels and pastries are made on premises and they can custom make a sandwich with Salmon, Chicken, Beef, and more for just 18-28Hr. They serve fantastic coee too. All speak uent English and the atmosphere is warm and cosy. It is denitely worth the visit!QI-4, Hrushevskoho 13, tel. (+380) 67 224 43 00/(+380) 93 748 08 19. Open 09:00 20:00. AGW

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Hit-Caf Hit oers up familiar western favourites including pizza, spaghetti and club sandwiches; tempting grill and meat dishes like steaks and kebobs; and a splattering of traditional Ukrainian treats such as borsch and pickled herring under a coat. Its possible to satisfy your hunger for less than 30Hr under an atmosphere a step up from the standard fast food joint. Also at F-4, Kyivska 7, tel. (+380) 32 237 77 67.QA-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 67 88. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PTA6B KaRtOpLiaNa Khata This is a cowboy, Indian and Che Guevara themed fast food joint where patrons can order a baked potato served in small bowl and topped with scrumptious titbits. Burritos, spicy wings, barbeque ribs and traditional salads are also on hand. A popular lunch spot, this is a nice choice if youre in a rush.QD-5, Lychakivska 4-6, tel. (+380) 32 242 05 26. Open 09:00 - 22:00. PAGS PaNda We did not see any Pandas, but found a great Chinese takeaway! They call it Fast Asian Food The main portions are such items as fried veggies, duck, pork, beef, seafood, and more with prices ranging from 15-60Hr a portion. There are also soups, salads, satays, and spring rolls from 12-40Hr. Delivery is free within the city centre. Outside the centre requires a 100Hr minimum per order.QD-6, I-4, K.Levytskoho 8, tel. (+380) 032 253 33 00/(+380) 97 253 33 00, www.pandawokibox. com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. VS SteaK HOUse Steak house is a nice twist on the low budget lunch/dinner counter in that it oers a freshly grilled piece of carcass to go with all the usual a la carte salads and side dishes. Theres no English available so allow us to introduce some vocabulary that will help with your order: for a beef steak say steak z yalovichini , for a pork steak steak z svinini and for grilled chicken steak z kuryatini . Their specialty, the lambada, is a massive, spicy pork steak garnished with crisp lettuce, pineapple, sweet peppers and corn. QJ-4, Pekarska 31, tel. (+380) 32 276 67 06. Open 11:00 - 23:00. S

GEORGiaN
BagRatiONi This is Georgian food at its nest! Main dishes run between 45-95Hr. We tried their famous Mtsvadi (shish-kebab) for around 30Hr and it was well worth it. There is Ukrainian cuisine also along with a great wine selection featuring Italian, French, Austrian, and Spanish labels. The design and atmosphere is denitely Georgian and there is seating for over 100. There is also a terrace and caf for good weather. Live music is performed nightly from 19:00-23:00. For more lively entertainment - the Anturazh Club is right next door.Qprosp. Chornovola 59, tel. (+380) 32 240 88 88/(+380) 67 674 08 88, info@bagrationi.lviv.ua, www. bagrationi.lviv.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW StaRYi TifLis (OLd TbiLisi) Georgians are known throughout Eastern Europe as masters of the grill, and the chefs at Staryi Tiis uphold this stereotype. Chicken wings, lamb, pork, veggies and even beef tongue are all roasted to perfection over open ames. Whenever pouring snifters of cognac, a friend of ours from Tbilisi likes to joke, Its always useful to keep a bottle of French or Armenian cognac around the house - you need something to clean the glasses out before pouring the good Georgian stu. Indeed, Georgians are extremely proud of their cognac and aromatic wines, and Staryi Tiis has some of the better brands on hand. They also keep some French and Armenian behind the bar in case you notice some spots on your glass.QJ-3, Pekarska 28, tel. (+380) 32 276 61 11. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAVGSW

HaLyTSKa (GaLiciaN)
KRYjiVKa When the uniformed guard opens the peep-hole to this theme caf/restaurant and says Slava Ukraini (Glory to Ukraine), thats your cue to respond Heroyam slava (Glory to its heroes). This was the greeting used by soldiers of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) as they waged guerrilla war against the Nazis, Poles and Soviet Union from 194349. Its also your ticket past the guard. Once inside, youll nd a fascinating and jovial bunker complete with grenades, ries and other military antiques. Just as the UPA was immensely popular in Lviv, so is this eatery dedicated to the memory of their sacrice. Tables can be scarce, so book ahead. Traditional Ukrainian dishes and spirits add to what is certain to be a lasting memory of your visit to Lviv. QC-4, Rynok pl. 14, tel. (+380) 32 254 61 18/(+380) 95 260 45 46, fax (+380) 322 54 61 18, www.kryjivka.com. ua. Open 24hrs. AW RestORatsiaYa Na VaLOViY You can always tell how rened a restaurant is by the number of forks set near the plate: this place had four. The dining area is decorated with classic prints and exciting original paintings by local artists. The chefs dedicalviv.inyourpocket.com

FRENcH
EUROhOteL RestaURaNt From the traditional leafy French salad with salmon and craysh, to club sandwiches and the chefs special Richelieu soup, everything on the menu ts right in. Indeed, this is a classy upgrade from the hotels previous restaurant. The veal let in true sauce, the certied Angus T-bone and salmon penne are tempting, but the grilled lamb plate for four is where its at. With tiramisu, strudel and cheesecake all on the menu, they didnt make your dessert selection an easy one. The aordable breakfast buet starts up early, the VIP room seats eight and banquets can be booked for up to 50.QJ-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, Eurohotel, tel. (+380) 32 275 51 73. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PALG 20 Lviv In Your Pocket

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tion to avour, aroma and presentation is tremendous; go with the understanding that quality takes time, and that all available Galician and European dishes are well worth the wait. The menus highlights include one of the citys best seafood selections, Hungarian style veal goulash and the Lviv pie, which is so sophisticated it must be ordered 24hrs in advance. Private celebrations can be booked for up to 40.QD-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 272 59 73. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAUIEGS SidLO There is a saddle out front and upon entering one is taken in awe at the lovely wood dcor. So we naturally thought it was a country western place. We were wrong. The cuisine is Galician, which is the former name of this region. Everything is based on traditional recipes and is cooked on a wood burning stove. Thats why all the wood is there. There are many dishes one would not nd every day. We had the Dish of something nger licking good which was rabbit, turkey, and veal sausage with corn, baked pudding and mushroom topping. It was a great eat and cost just 237Hr for 2. A complete average meal here will run around 200-250Hr. There is also a business lunch from 12:00-16:00 for just 35Hr - a great lunch experience. QC-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 4, tel. (+380) 93 750 37 37, www.sidlo.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAGW

Traditional Georgian Restaurant


59, Chornovola ave. Phone: +380 32 240 88 88 Mobile: +380 67 674 08 88

ITaLiaN
BiaNcO ROssO Pretty much the real thing! And right in the Centre! The Italian chef, Angelo even brought his own pasta machine with him! The dcor is something like Art Deco and the background music is actually enjoyable and not something one has to shout over to be heard. The menu comes in English and serves a wide variety of Italian and European cuisine and is not that expensive. The sta was very friendly and spoke English. Breakfast is from 07:00-11:30.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) 32 235 54 44. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PTA6GBSW DeL PestO DatiNg RestaURaNt This restaurant is worth visiting. The dcor is comfortable and one feels immediately at home. The sta is friendly and English speaking and the cuisine is European and Italian. They also sell special homemade liquor which is quite good. There are 4 rooms and there is plenty of room for parties and banquets. Special dating menu (you order for two persons while pay for one only) is served from 18:00-23:00.QH-3, T. Kostyushka 6, tel. (+380) 97 461 98 87/(+380) 32 255 00 80, delpesto.lviv.ua. Open 09:00 23:00. PAGSW FeLicita Located in the George Hotel right in the centre. It has a comfortable Italian type decor and the sta is quick and friendly, all uent in English. The cuisine is authentic Italian with a real stone pizza oven. There is a good variety of pasta and pizza dishes with prices ranging from 60-110Hr. facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

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There is Wi-Fi with seating for 60.QB-5, I-3, Mickewicza pl. 1, George Hotel, tel. (+380) 67 361 28 28, felichita@ grandpersona.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. JW FLOReNtsia (FLOReNce) A small quaint Italian restaurant seating 20 in the old city. The dcor is classic Italian as is the cuisine. A house speciality is their pasta with chicken and white mushrooms. There is a great list of Italian wines and a business lunch weekdays from 12:00-16:00 for 30, 40, and 50Hr.QD-4, I-3, Brativ Rohatyntsiv, 43/12, tel. (+380) 32 235 43 76/(+380) 68 505 71 31, Ivandyba@gmail.com, www.orence.lviv.in. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. W La PiaZZa La Piazza is located on the top oor of the luxurious fashion gallery Opera Passage. This pizza&pasta bar has the unique concept and authentic Italian cuisine. It oers 17 types of original pizza for all tastes, 16 kinds of pasta dishes, original Italian antipasti, delicious desserts, opportunity to watch the process of cooking. Our choice was soup of the day (it changes each day) for 15Hr. But the most attractive thing there is its atmosphere. It is friendly and cosy and just what you need for either family/friends lunch or business meeting. During a lunch time (11:00 - 14:00) from Monday until Friday take a chance to get a fat and delicious lunch for only 33Hr. For this unbelievable price youll be oered pasta, soup or salad and drink. Among other special oers there is coee and desert for 25Hr during the week days from 14:00 until 16:00. For cocktail lovers La Piazza oers a 30% discount every night (21:00 - 23:30). QA-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 14. Open 11:00 - 24:00. PGSW LH BaR & RestaURaNt Italian cuisine has become popular the world over and is known for its elegance and richness of avour. In the new LH Bar & Restaurant these qualities can truly be enjoyed. The menu is quite large and oers pasta with such exquisite taste that you know it is the Real thing. The main dishes include tasty veal, beef, chicken, pork, and fresh sh. And do not leave without having a traditional Italian dessert. Everything is prepared under the supervision of a real Italian chef. The restaurant is perfect for any occasion; business lunch, a romantic evening, or dining out with the family. The friendly sta, great food, respectable wine, soft music, and comfortable interior all combine to create a wonderful sense of harmony.QI-4, Pl. Petrushevycha 1, tel. (+380) 32 295 60 39, fax (+380) 32 260 23 93, hotellh@gmail.com, www.lhhotel.com.ua. Open 10:00 23:00. PALSW make this a dining hotspot. Here are a few things to know before you go. 1. There are no prices listed on the menu as you are expected to barter. Being a foreigner, theyre likely to just quote you a reasonable price. 2. For the right price you can secretly arrange to have your waiter smuggle in some pork dishes. How kosher is this place? 3. They oer a fantastic selection of salads, vegetable dishes, Galician desserts and traditional Jewish breads. 4. For a taste of Lviv youll never forget, try the homemade vodka.QC-4, Staroyevreiska 48, near the Synagogue, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 53. Open 11:00 - 01:00. A

MEDiTERRaNEaN
LaVie This is a great restaurant right in the heart of the old city and adjacent to the Rudolfo Hotel. They have a very moderately priced Mediterranean menu and a great wine list. We had the grilled veal with boiled veggies for just 70Hr. There are also some very tasty, exotic salads. An average meal will run you no more that 150-200Hr. Thursday through Sunday there is live music.QB-3, I-2, Virmenska 4, tel. (+380) 32 236 80 51, www.lavie-lviv.com. Open 24hrs. . PAGW NObiLis This rst class restaurant oers a gourmet blend of tantalizing Mediterranean cuisine and signature local dishes, which are certain to delight your taste sensations and surpass your expectations. An average meal will run about 200-250Hr. The menu is in English and the sta is warm and friendly and speak English well. The restaurant also oers romantic private dinners, and bookings can be made for conferences, banquets, and weddings. Restaurant hours: 11:00 23:00. Breakfast hours: Monday-Friday: 07:00 - 10:30, SaturdaySunday 08:00 - 11:30.QI-3, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 84 14/(+380) 32 295 84 16, www.nobilis-hotel.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PALEGSW

MEXicaN
The MeXicaN This is basically an extension of The Grill and may be entered through it or from the street. The design is simple giving the atmosphere if an authentic, dimly lit Mexican Cantina. There is no English menu and communication was a bit dicult. There are burritos from 35Hr -55Hr (no bean burritos though). Fajitas go for 55Hr and nachos go for 33Hr-55Hr. There are also soups and salads ranging from 20Hr-50Hr.QB-2, H-2, Tetralna 22, tel. (+380) 322 23 54 99/(+380) 322 23 64 09, www.themexican.com. ua. Open 13:00 - 23:00. PAGW

JEWiSH
Pid ZOLOtOiU ROZOYU This Jewish restaurant is located downhill from the ruins of the Golden Rose Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in Ukraine. The outdoor seating is exceptional and helps 22 Lviv In Your Pocket

PiZZa
BeLLa CiaO This is really a great pizza parlour right in the centre. They have a real stone pizza oven so it is pretty much the real thing! The design is Italianish with seating inside for 60 and lviv.inyourpocket.com

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outside for 45 when the weather permits. There is a great variety of pizzas ranging from 45-65Hr or so. There are also salads, pasta, and lasagnas. One can get a complete meal here for 150Hr or less. The sta communicated well (as did the menu) and all were very friendly.QC-3, Virmenska 31, tel. (+380) 097 216 07 07, www.bellaciao.virtual.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00. CeLeNtaNO This established pizzeria chain champions democracy by granting patrons the choice of their own favourite toppings from a wide range of possibilities. Various salads, crpes with dierent llings and pasta dishes are also on oer. Do the roof of your mouth a favour and let the extremely hot pizza cool before consumption. Friendly service and speedy delivery have become this in-andout pizzerias trademarks.QC-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. (+380) 32 235 56 84, www.pizza-celentano.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00 Also at Kopernika 9; prosp. Svobody 24; Slovatskoho 16; Volodymyra Velykoho 123; Vyhovskoho 47a; Horodotska 141. PGBS New YORK StReet PiZZa When I asked for onions on my pizza the server looked at me as if I had a second head growing out of my ear. Onions on pizza? Dont be ridiculous. I rescanned the toppings list to make sure I wasnt the butt of a practical joke. Indeedno onions. You can top your pie with imitation crab sticks and corn, but no onions. I settled for salami and mushrooms and it turned out to be quite tasty. Though Ukrainian Street Pizza would be a more tting name, this is a nice pick for those in a hurry and short of cash.QA-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 27 57, www.pizza-nys.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00 Also at Tershakivtsiv 5; Volodymyra Velykoho 5; Chervonoyi Kalyny 31; Patona 37; Stefanyka 4; Henerala Chuprynky 36; Sviatoho Teodora 2. PGBS

UKRaiNiaN
Dim LegeNd This restaurant-caf has become something of a legend in Lviv. It is located on 7 small oors with a real Trabi sitting on the roof top terrace with a great view of old Lviv. Each oor has a dierent theme telling the story of liviv. One room has the clocks, another depicting the lions of Lviv, another tunnels, etc. No visit to Lviv is complete without stopping here!QD-4, Staroyevreiska 48, tel. (+380) 67 670 38 28, www.lokal.lviv.ua. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PAGW GaRbUZ (PUmpKiN) No time to wait for a meal? The Garbuz is a lovely place to get ready made food. It is very delicious, of good quality, and inexpensive. One cannot miss it; the front door is very unusual, like opening a giant pumpkin. This restaurant has its own original style; with massive oak tables, metal made into whimsical lamps, and the royal chairs. It is actually an facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 23

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indescribable design. We strongly suggest viewing the web site. At lunch time, the tempo moves quickly. In the evening it is another story. The Pumpkin is transformed into a cosy pub with fresh draft beer and a lots of TV monitors for sports fans.QI-3, Ivana Franka 15, tel. (+380) 32 225 51 51, www.garbuz.lviv.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAEGW HORs Hors was the Slavic god of the winter sun whom ancient Lvivian pagans associated with healing and survival. The stairs leading to the restaurant have been described as fteen stairs to the 15th century. You are not entering a basement, this is actually a renovated section of an ancient catacomb and the rocks that line the base of the arched walls were set in the 15th century. The unique mysterious atmosphere is denitely worth checking out, but dont get too distracted as the menu oers its own intrigue with items like salmon with spinach, steaks and dishes dedicated to the Slavic gods. Live music is performed Thursday-Sunday.QC-4, Staroyevreiska 5, tel. (+380) 32 235 41 57, www.hors.com.ua. Open 10:00 23:00. . PAGW INteRNatiONaL VaReNYKY FUNd ARchiVe This popular place is located no more than 20 steps from the Opera House and is an ideal spot for everyone wishing to try traditional Ukrainian varenyky, cooked specially on your order. There is a fantastic choice among dierent llings: potato, cabbage, cheese, mushrooms and cherries. Apart of varenyky, you can try similar dishes from other national cuisine - Georgian khinkali, Italian ravioli. There is also a choice of very tasty pickled vegetables, snacks and homemade sausages. An average bill for a good meal will be 30-40 Hr. The place spread on two oors, TV screens oer football broadcasting and there is an English menu. QA-3, Furmanska 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 58 86. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW MediVNia The name Medivnia translates Honey Brew. It is located in the heart of the old city. The interior design is fascinating, with pictures, and artifacts of old Ukraine. There are several rooms and the total seating capacity is 70. The cuisine is a large variety of traditional Ukrainian dishes, meat, 24 Lviv In Your Pocket

poultry, sh, and vegetables. The Ukrainian ribs with honey sauce was delicious! There is an English menu, though it takes some eort to understand the Ukrainian-English. It was a lot of fun actually as the server was very friendly. We forgot something at our table, and the server went out of his way to nd someone who could speak English and had them call the number on my business card. This doesnt happen that often in Ukraine. The house speciality is called medovukha, an alcoholic drink steeped in natural honey and herbs, which has been brewed the same way since the 18th century. It was the traditional brew drunk by the Cossacks. Medivnia has very reasonable prices and is a place we would love to return to.QB-3, Krakivska 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 91 41. Open 09:00 - 23:00. PAGB PaNsKa ChaRKa A lovely Ukrainian restaurant with inside and outside seating. The specialty is home made liquors (nastoyanka) made from honey, fruit, herbs and even horse radish. The sta was extremely friendly and the English menu has traditional Ukrainian food, one can even order a boars leg for that special large gathering of friends. From 20:00 to 22:00 on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights there is live music. Liqueurs can be bought as souvenirs.QI-3, Vynnychenka 3, tel. (+380) 97 205 48 41/(+380) 32 235 53 91. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAEGBSW POROKhOVa VeZha This popular eatery can be a bit tricky to nd. Its located across the street from the Dominican Cathedral in the ancient looking fortress with the two smirking lions perched on the steps. Enter through the north side. Locals and travellers alike are attracted by the reasonable priced Ukrainian favourites and snug atmosphere perfect for enjoying a glass of wine. The summer terrace with shashlyk grill is a popular cooling-o/lling-up point for hikers ascending and descending Vysokyi Zamok Mount. English is in short supply, but the servers are charming and patient (theyve seen your kind before).QD-3, Pidvalna 4, tel. (+380) 32 276 51 62. Open 10:00 - 23:00. GBS

Much more restaurant recommendations can be found at lviv.inyourpocket.com


lviv.inyourpocket.com

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SaLO RestaURaNt & MUseUm Salo is a bit like a museum, but more like a contemporary art space. In the restaurant area youll be oered a Salo Art Menu which contains some uniquely sculptured forms of salo. (FYI-Salo is pure pig fat, a Ukrainian delicacy) We liked the chocolate covered salo! There is live music, DJ or something going on every Saturday. One can also order from the menus of neighbouring Bianco Rosso and Yappi restaurants.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) 32 235 55 36, www.artsalo.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PA6ESW SeVeN Piggies The classic Ukrainian khata (hut) ambiance and attentive service make this a ne choice for those looking to sample the local cuisine. The only drawbacks are its locale, just far enough from old town to make you think twice, and the prices are slightly above average. Many of the main courses - king salmon steak, Cossack beefsteak, pork ribs - are priced per 100 grams. Traditional soups, salads and horilka (vodka) are plentiful and the fresh squeezed juices and chocolate cake are worth adding to the order. Banquets can be booked for up to 25, and the banquet menu is loaded with delights such as stued sturgeon, baked piglet and specialty duck, goose and turkey dishes. Menus in English are available upon request.QG-4, Stepana Bandery 9, tel. (+380) 32 297 55 58, www.7piggies.com. ua/7p_eng/7pEngHalls_index_page.html. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAIEGS VULYK (HONeY RestaURaNt) This is a unique, inexpensive Ukrainian restaurant not far from the centre. As the name implies, many dishes are cooked with honey like the chicken crumble for just 25Hr. There are also many barbecued dishes. We had the yummy river trout stued with mushrooms for just 60Hr. A complete meal can cost you no more than 150Hr. There is seating for 35 with live music on the weekends. The sta will make you feel at home and they speak English well. QI-4, Hrushevskoho 16, tel. (+380) 32 260 23 62, www. vulyk.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW

6, Furmans'ka street (Opera House district) OPEN: 11.00 a.m. - 11.00 p.m. (+380) 32-225-58-86

International Varenyky Fund

UZBEK
BUKhaRa Reasonable prices, a unique atmosphere and hearty authentic Uzbek cuisine make this place very popular. An English menu is available upon request. The shurpa (mutton soup) was some of the best weve ever sampled and the cheburek (Uzbek meat pie), pilaf and shashlik are all dripping with authenticity. The sta is very friendly, the food arrived quickly and with a smile. The cosy cottage interior bends time and oers a view into an obscure land where most dream to travel, but never catch a ight.QA3, Furmanska 6, tel. (+380) 32 244 42 25. Open 12:00 01:00. PASW facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

Open 12.00 - 01.00 6, Furmanska street (Opera House district) (+380) 32 244 42 25
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Welcome to Ukraines coee capital! Life for Lvivians revolves around the caf, and its no wonder that there is an endless selection of establishments to choose from. Indeed, its theoretically possible to visit a dierent caf everyday and never see the same place twice. No matter where you end up, youre sure to nd a charming atmosphere, rich aromatic coee and a loaded menu. The city also boasts a variety of must-visit theme cafs that brilliantly introduce and preserve the citys diverse history and culture. If youre a coee lover, youve come to the right place. For those that are indierent, prepare to get hooked. Amichi It is a quaint little caf-restaurant just o the beaten path. The dcor is European New with seating for about 25 with a constant ow of good mellow music. The cuisine is European/Italian and very moderately priced. There is a breakfast menu from 09:00-12:00 and a great business lunch for 40Hr served from 12:00-16:00. The sta is uent in English which makes it a great place to hold private parties. QC-5, Kniazia Romana 16, tel. (+380) 32 235 47 53/ (+380) 96 514 53 31, www.amici.com.ua. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PAVGSW AROma caf This recent entry into the Lviv cafe scene was well worth the visit! Everything seemed to be fresh & homemade. There are pastries, cakes, kish, gelato, and even lemonade. It is a lovely modern place for 30 with a friendly English speaking sta, Wi-Fi, and nice mellow music. Open 09:00 23:00.QD-4, Staroyevreiska 46, tel. (+380) 32 297 63 00. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PAVGSW LViVs ChOcOLate WORKshOp This lovely chocolate shop is easy to nd as there is always a crowd looking through the window and gathering at the small sales stall. There is a small caf at the entrance where there are many avours of hot chocolate and coee to choose. All the chocolate candies made here can be sampled before you go to the shop. Milkshakes, ice cream, cakes and snacks are awaiting you as well. Also on the ground oor, one can view the actual workshop where these delicacies are made. Souvenirs and toys are made of chocolate and purchases can be shipped from here world-wide. QC-4, Serbska 3, tel. (+380) 50 430 60 33, www.chocolate.lviv.ua. Open 10:00 - 20:00. PAGSW LViVsKa KOpaLNa KaVY (LViVs COffee MiNe) At the entrance one sees a conveyer belt bringing up coffee from the underground coee mine. So of course we jumped at the chance to go on a tour of this mine far beneath the streets of Lviv. Downstairs, we go to the mine entrance where we put on a miners hat with a lamp and a rather heavy battery pack. We then journey through the dim mine, avoiding the wagons of freshly mined coee. We stop along the way at little pockets where we sample various spiced coee. It was quite an experience. Back up stairs there is a regular coee shop with really yummy cakes and cookies. Q-4, Rynok pl. 10, tel. (+380) 67 670 61 06, www.fest.lviv.ua. Open 08:00 - 23:00. AGW 26 Lviv In Your Pocket LViVsKa MaNUfaKtURa KaVY (LViV COffee MaNUfactURes) We cannot remember seeing so many dierent types of coee on oer in quite a while all of it freshly roasted! There is no food, and no one really speaks English just coee and tea. There is seating for 50 in a very informal, relaxed atmosphere. The dcor is fantastic a rustic coee design with grinders, bags of coee, and old classic coee posters scattered throughout. QC-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 7. Open 08:30 - 22:00. AGW Mapa This a logical launching point for your romp around Lviv. Not only do they oer tasty treats and desserts, you can also order maps, atlases and sightseeing booklets in Ukrainian, Polish and English. Plan your day while sipping coee or tea in the comfy interior or on the trendy veranda. The cakes are avourful but dont be fooled by their recognisable names, i.e. the tiramisu is actually chocolate cake with a cream cheese lling. QC-4, Halytska 4, tel. (+380) 32 272 55 69, www. mapa.lviv.ua. Open 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGBW MaisteRNia KaRameLi This sweet shop is a great place to take children. 5 times daily they make candy right there in the shop. All employees have learned the technique in either Poland or Switzerland and it is really fascinating to watch the process. There are no articial or synthetic ingredients used in their candies. We tasted samples and they were so mouth watering good that we just had to get a bag to take home with us.QB-3, Krakivska 18, tel. (+380) 32 236 70 81/(+380) 98 577 35 77, www.caramel.lviv.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:30. PAGW

ViENNa COFFEE HOUSE

At Lvivs epicentre youll nd the popular Vienna Coee House and Wien Hotel. The venue is split in two with a caf on one side and an elegant restaurant/banquet room on the other. It is the perfect place for a romantic breakfast, meeting with friends or celebrations of special events. Majestic instrument with 100 years history, the harmonium decorates the hall. Order anything on the menu with the word Viennese attached and you wont be disappointed. The Viennese schnitzel with mushroom sauce could be the best schnitzel this side of the Danube. Its easy to become glued to your seat on the relaxing summer terrace, a perfect location for sipping rich coffee and gorging on apple strudel.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 32 235 87 52, fax (+380) 32 272 24 52. Open 09:00 - 24:00. PAGBW lviv.inyourpocket.com

Cafs
MasOch Caf This titillating theme place is dedicated to writer and original freak Leopold Ritter von Sacher-Masoch who was born in Lviv in 1836. Masoch enjoyed playing the role of the slave and insisted that his dominatrixes wear furs. In fact, the word masochism was coined from his name. The menu, which can be purchased as a souvenir, is loaded with fabulous and unusual dishes. If your husband is having diculties deciding on a meal, hes probably too distracted by the pornography that appears on the menu and you should order for him. Hes sure to appreciate the bulls testicles in an oil and sweet pepper sauce. On your way out the door, dont forget to reach into Leopolds pocket for this cafs version of a fortune cookie. QC-4, Serbska 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 18 72, www.masochcafe.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 01:00. PABSW POshta Na DRUKaRsKiY From rst appearances the caf looks like it is in an old post oce that has been here for centuries. The themehere is Lviv post cards - thousands of them on all the walls. It is reckoned to be the largest collection of its kind in Ukraine. There are also some old postal machines and telephones giving it an authentic museum-type of eect. Their specialty is home -made pies both savoury and sweet. Pork, chicken, and salmon are some of the savoury ones; while apple-cinnamon and peach-kiwi are some of the sweet ones. Having never tasted cooked kiwi - I had to try the later and thoroughly enjoyed it. .QC-3, Drukarska 3, tel. (+380) 50 434 71 48. Open 08:00 - 00:00. PASW RURmasteR Do not let the name fool you this is actually strudel heaven! A rurmaster was the name given to an expert who laid the water supply in the medieval city of Lviv. That is why water pipes, funnels, and cranes that decorate the caf. Many great homemade strudels are yours for the taking. The sweet variety cost 22Hr and the savoury ones are 25Hr. The sta was great at English and was very cheerful and helpful. There is seating for 35 inside and 25 outside in good weather.QC-3, Ploscha Rynok 35, tel. (+380) 98 638 65 08, www.rurmaster.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:00. SpigaRKa A nice little niche cafe in the heart of the old city. The decor is - do not laugh - Old Austrian Apartment. Opened in 2012 this cosy cafe/shop has lots of home-made goodies; cookies, and preserved fruit, jams, & veggies. It seats 25 and oers soups, sandwiches, and deserts at moderate prices.QC-3, Virmenska 27, tel. (+380) 32 235 59 21. Open 10:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW StRUdeL HOUse Ya ist strudel in der Centre! A very unique concept indeed! All kinds of strudel both savoury & sweet, some choices are: buckwheat, sauerkraut, spinach, chicken, pineapple, walnut, cherry and so on. Most strudel costs between 1820Hr. There are also several varieties of pancakes, salads and ice cream as well as a nice wine list. There is seating for 26 and service is great!QB-3, Shevska 6, tel. (+380) 32 294 82 06. Open 10:00 - 22:00. PAULGBW facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 27

Drink & Party


your friends and meet new ones. 4 minutes walk from King Danylo monument.QC-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 2, tel. (+380) 32 225 65 54, www.4friends.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PXW BiLYi LeV (White LiON) In English the name translates into White Lion with a large statue of one to prove it. Formerly a brewery run by monks who made their own beer. The pub oers this beer and 30 other brands. There is menu in English with soups, salads, homemade varenyky and steaks. The prices are the most favourable. A speciality is the 2kg. mixed grill for 249Hr. There are 5 rooms with Wi-Fi and TV screens for sport events. Live music - jazz and rock - is played from Thursday to Saturday.QC-3, Lesi Ukrainky, 15, tel. (+380) 32 235 46 25/(+380) 67 675 51 23, www.white-lion.com. ua. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PA6EBSW DUbLiN Dublin is known as The true Irish pub. It is slightly hidden in an alley way, very close to the city centre known as The crooked Linden lane. We arrived early on a Saturday night and the place was already lled. There were several TV screens and a few people were actually watching the game. Most people were just enjoying their friends and the beer. The pub oers a wide choice of fresh draught beer and whiskey. They have a specialty, Dublin beer - what they call live beer made in Ukraine (24Hr a pint). There are two halls ground level for 45-50 guests, and downstairs seating 20-22 guests. There is also a terrace outside, weather permitting. There is a great menu with Irish type pub grub and steaks guaranteed to make your mouth water! During weekdays there is a business lunch for only 50Hr.QA-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 88 74, www.dublin.com.ua. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GB MUsic Lab Thats one of a few places in Lviv which is open 24/7 and diers from most of Lviv eateries by its unusual interior. Visiting so many places in Lviv we use to see venues decorated with a tint of history and here we are in the heart of ancient city in a club with a modern glamourous interior. The menu oers international cuisine, three types of draught beer and a large variety of cocktails, energy drinks and good selection of whiskey. On weekends and holidays the space is transformed into a disco club. Live concert take place from time to time.QC-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 27, tel. (+380) 32 294 87 15, www.musiclab.com.ua. Open 24hrs. P6VXSW PijaLNia hORiLKY & pYVa Entering this caf is like taking a step back in time to the USSR days. It is Soviet food like people used to eat at home. The prices are also from another dimension. Each dish costs just 20Hr and all drinks cost 10Hr each. They also serve original Lviv beer. It is a nice friendly restaurant atmosphere in the daytime. In the night time there is more of a drinking crowd.QC-4, I-3, Ploscha Rynok 31, www. pijalnia.com.ua. Open 24hrs. . ABS lviv.inyourpocket.com

WIDE CHOICE OF FRESH DRAUGHT BEER AND WHISKY Kryva Lypa Lane, 5

ORIGINAL CUISINE AND TRUE IRISH FRIENDLY ATMOSPHERE tel. 272 88 74 261 61 71

TM

EDiTORS NOTE
Lvivs clubs attract a diverse crowd, and you should be able to blend in quite easily. The great thing about partying in Eastern Europe is that the locals are arguably more awkward on the dance oor than we are in the west, so shrug o you inhibitions and convulse to the beat. Warning: Locals are overtly friendly and often invite foreigners to party at their table. Weve learned from repeated experience that its impossible for a westerner to keep pace with locals when it comes to shooting horilka (vodka). Slow and steady wins the horilka race.

BaRS & PUBS


4fRieNds Truly what the Doors had in mind in the song Show me the way to the next whiskey bar. 4friends has up to 150 brands of well known and rare whiskeys from Scotland, Ireland, Canada, USA and Japan. A wide range of testing sets pleases the eye and every member of the sta is a specialist in whiskey and speaks good English. There are snacks and a European menu with reasonable prices. Steaks are perfect. This pub is very popular with capacity for around 50. Cosy leather sofas for nice and relaxed dinner and football with rock music to have fun with 28 Lviv In Your Pocket

Drink & Party


PRaga PUb Czechs drink more beer per capita than anyone on the planet. That being said, they expect only the best from their breweries and Praga Lviv taps into this tradition by serving fresh from the source Budvar, Kruovice and other classic Czech brews. The pub is located in the basement of the Praga complex, which includes a restaurant and caf on the ground oor. Its welcoming neighbourhood appeal and occasional boisterous crowds make this an enticing venue for meeting-up, winding-down or viewing a big game.QA-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. Open 11:00 - 24:00. PAEGBSW PYVNYtsia It is a great pub/restaurant, downstairs. Do not confuse it with the pub upstairs with the same address which is not really a pub at all. The design is a brick type with gives a cool-soothing eect. It is basically a restaurant by day and a pub by night. There is room for about 70. The cuisine is International/Ukrainian and their specialty is to cook a lot of things with beer. The prices are pretty good with an average meal costing only around 100Hr. The business lunch is great! It costs just 35Hr and is served from 12:00-15:00. English is no problem here.QH-2, Sholom Aleikhema 20, tel. (+380) 32 272 98 38/(+380) 96 835 05 02. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:00. The ROOm-WiNe & SNacKs This is a cute, little wine bar right in the centre of the old city. They have a good selection of wine from France, Italy, Spain, and Argentina. They also have some reasonably priced snacks and salads. It is a warm, comfortable local to enjoy a glass of wine in. There is great wine-bar music to add to the atmosphere.QC-3, Lesi Ukrainky 18, tel. (+380) 93 126 14 17. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . ZeNYK GLamOUR The theme of this pub is glamour, or to be precise, the vanity of glamour, as it is meant to be a spoof on glamour. One feels this by viewing the unique dcor, decorations, and photos. There is no English menu but the sta is warm and friendly and speaks some English. The specialty is potato pancakes & beer which we quite enjoyed. QC-5, Rudanskoho 1, tel. (+380) 50 378 60 38. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PABSW ZeNYK. MYtNYK This pub is dedicated to the Ukrainian Customs department which is right next door. (The literal translation of mytnyk is customs agent.) It is meant to take the Mickey out of them; a bit of sarcasm which is displayed in its dcor using various photos spread throughout the pub. Their specialty is beer and potato pancakes at great prices. This is a place one doesnt want to miss!QH-3, T. Kostyushka 1, tel. (+380) 32 239 33 99. Open 8:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 06:00. PASW

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Drink & Party


CLUBS
ANtURaZh This is a nice lounge club just not far from the centre and adjacent to the Bagrationi Restaurant. They share the same menu. There are live performances with group from Russia, Poland, and Hungary. There is also a great DJ. The club is known for its original cocktails, so do not miss out on tasting one! A karaoke fan will have a good time here. Qprosp. Chornovola 59, tel. (+380) 67 105 81 81. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. FeNOmeN The fact that this club is located on the edge of the city hasnt deterred the throngs of local hipsters that routinely pack this place on weekends. Face control is relatively strict; its better to be over than underdressed, and the average age is just under thirty. The club has three zones: chill with a hookah in the Magic Room, house spins in the Main Floor and there are no surprises in the RnB Caf. In English, the menu leaves nothing to chance and oers an array of tasty salads, sandwiches, onion rings - everything you need to quell the munchies. Tables can be reserved for 200-800Hr depending on the zone and size of your party. (Marshrutka No.47A, which makes stops on pl. Danyla Halytskoho, will drop you 50 metres from the clubs entrance.)QZelena 186, tel. (+380) 32 270 55 58/(+380) 93 077 57 77, www.fenomenclub.com. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Admission: Mon - free, Tue -30Hr, Wed-Fri 40Hr, Sat - 50Hr. PALGBW KULt CLUb Kult is a tribute Lvivs icons past and present. A wall of fame wraps completely round the main hall. Though you may only recognise a couple faces like pop star Ruslana or former Arsenal defender Oleg Luzhny, the charismatic ambiance is unforgettable. Prices on Ukrainian and European fare are reasonable; however, many items are priced per 100 grams, so ask the server the approximate size of the dish in order to avoid confusion. Kult is perhaps best known for the live music (mostly jazz and blues) that is staged nightly from 21:00.QB-5, Chaikovskoho 7, tel. (+380) 32 242 22 42, www.kult.lviv.ua. Open 12:00 02:00. Admission is free. PAIEGSW LeRROY COUNtRY CLUb This is not a country club in the traditional sense, i.e. theres no golf course or swimming pool. Lerroy is actually a club with a country western theme - at least when it comes to the dcor. On the night we were there, the DJ was playing a medley of 80s Russian rock ballads. Most of the action takes place on and around the dance oor, but theres also plenty to do in the cocktail lounge and the hushed hookah bar. The kitchen oers a splattering of local soups and salads, and the specialty is the Argentine steak. Entertainment programmes, including the occasional striptease, are held every Saturday. The club enforces the following dress code: sneakers and sweatpants are prohibited, but leopard skin 30 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com

Drink & Party


spandex and cleavage lifting blouses are encouraged. The average age is mid-thirties, and tables can be reserved for 50Hr.QE-4, Heroiv UPA 80, tel. (+380) 32 239 31 60. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PLGB MetRO CLUb Those who think that theres no metro in Lviv couldnt be more mistaken. So what if it wont transport you around the city, Metro is most popular club in the city. Top-rated by expats in Lviv, it oers over 1000 sq.m of drive, outdoor area of around 400 sq.m, four bars with a quick service, a restaurant, bar yer show and travesty show. Stay out if you have sympathy for racism, xenofobia, drug use, homophobia or aggression, this club is open to each international visitor. The stu speaks English, Polish and Turkish.QI-4, Zelena 14, tel. (+380) 67 670 42 43/(+380) 32 242 49 60, www. metroclub.com.ua. Open 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 3050Hr for girls, 35-60Hr for boys. PESW MiLLeNiUm Located in a former cinema, there is room for 1,000 in the 3 storied disco appealing to the university set. There are popular DJs, go-go girls and video clips making a very lively performance. Thursday is ladies night with free entrance until 23:00. The entrance is 30-40Hr. The restaurant is set apart and has a witch-craft theme. Romantic music is played and many famous Ukrainian celebrities frequent the place whose pictures we didnt recognize at all. The menu is in English with European and Ukrainian cuisine, the average meal costing 150-200Hr. We tried the specialty, a salad called Lovely Lady which was delicious!QH-2, Viacheslava Chernovola 2, tel. (+380) 32 240 35 91, www. favorite-club.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. P MOLOKO Moloko or Milk in English is disco type of club right on the main street in the centre. It has a milk white design and white leather sofas and chairs. It occupies 2 oors above an outside 24 hour restaurant of the same name. It holds 200 and has DJs playing the latest hits till dawn. It is all part of a larger outside complex that also include the Vezha Kramariv Restaurant. It is in a medieval tower and is denitely a unique eating experience. The menu, shared in all the dierent sections, is European and Ukrainian cuisine and very moderately priced. An average meal runs about 100-120Hr.QB-4, prosp. Svobody 16-18, tel. (+380) 96 073 36 60/(+380) 67 208 46 45, www.molokoclub.info. Open 22:00 - 06:00. PicassO By day (12:00-18:00), Picasso is a popular caf known for its avourful coee and tasty treats. By night, it metamorphoses into one of Lvivs most vibrant and popular clubs. Concerts, retro parties and performances by top DJs ll an eclectic calendar. Face control is the rule: ditch the dirty trousers and comb your hair you lthy degenerate! Book a table Friday and Saturday for a meagre 30Hr.QJ-5, Zelena 88, tel. (+380) 32 275 32 72, www.picasso.lviv. ua. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Thu. Admission 30-60Hr. PIEBW facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket February - March 2014 31

Drink & Party


A stylish place to hang out!

Renaissance Club

Open: 24/7 2, Kovzhuna str., Lviv (Hotel George district) +380 67 22 01 444
RafiNad PeOpLe Ranad brings a touch of class previously missing in Lvivs club scene. Youll need to pass a fairly strict face control: worn-out jeans and sneakers wont get you through the door. Service standards, the cuisine and even the music are tuned to European tastes. The club itself is spacious, but the tight dance oor ensures there will be plenty of grinding. The DJs, live music and performers are professional and always entertaining. Other attractions include two VIP rooms and a cigar hall.QB-5, Rudanskoho 1, tel. (+380) 32 261 61 68/(+380) 66 400 08 88, www.rafinadclub.com. Open 24 hrs. Admission Mon-Thu 30Hr for girls, 50Hr for boys; Fri-Sun 50Hr for girls, 100Hr for boys. PALEGW ReNaissaNce CLUb A modern, bright club not far from the centre is open for you serious clubbers 24/7. It holds about 200 on 2 oors in a beautiful Renaissance style dcor. Upstairs there is a DJ & Go-Go girls from Friday to Sunday. During the week sports are shown on TV. Downstairs is karaoke every night from 9:00 and it is quite popular here. They also have a great menu with European and Italian cuisine, and of course, sushi. The prices are quite reasonable for a club just 200Hr for an average meal. Sta is friendly and helpful and easy to communicate with.QB-5, Kovzhuna 2, tel. (+380) 67 220 14 44. Open 24hrs. PAW SpLit CLUb LViV Split is a one-stop-shop for all your dining, drinking and entertainment needs. The Irish pub blends with a stylish restaurant that serves Ukrainian, European and Japanese cuisine. The restaurant also features a private dining room where an itamae whips up inventive sushi dishes for up to eight. Splits strip club is renowned for its incredibly talented dancers and is open from 22:00 - 04:00. The clubs specialty is the aqua show, in which the dancer takes a shower! Private, lap and table dances are also available. A 100Hr admission applies for the strip club.QB-5, Mickiewicza pl. 6/7, tel. (+380) 32 242 22 00, www.split.lviv.ua. Open 24hrs. PTAILEGSW

ADULT ENTERTaiNmENT
The Gas StatiON There is no gas here, but one can denitely get ones batteries recharged here. There is pole dancing near the entrance and strip-tease from time to time and a giant brick warehouse type of building with a huge hall seating over 200. Concerts are performed most evenings with groups from Russia, Ukraine, and elsewhere with an admission fee from 50Hr upwards. While it is an adult club at night, it is a great restaurant all the time. There is a picture menu to give an idea of the dishes, many items going from 30-60Hr. There are steaks for 85Hr, or try the giant Hulgian Supper Plate for 2-3 persons costing just 375Hr. All the food is served on board, not plates, and we are sure you will be well fed. QH-1, Dzherelna 20, tel. (+380) 96 644 76 23, www. thegas.com.ua. Open 12:00 - 00:00. PALGSW lviv.inyourpocket.com

LUXURIOUS NIGHTCLUB DISCO KARAOKE LOUNGE ROOM CHORNOVOLA 59 067 105 81 81


32 Lviv In Your Pocket

What to see
Lvivs old town is so densely packed with mesmerising, inspiring and unique attractions that travellers often become paralysed with fascination and never leave. Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the countrys brightest and best museums, art galleries and theatres. The uncommonly preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden ancient niches are sure to propel your mind through a vivid collage of centuries gone by. name Black Stone House didnt always apply, it was previously known as Kyiv Stone House and Doctors Stone House. In 1926 the building was bought by the city and a branch of Lvivs historical museum was soon established.QC-3, Rynok pl. 4, tel. (+380) 32 272 06 71. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission 10Hr, students and kids - 5Hr. CitY HaLL (RatUsha)

LViV HiGHLiGHTS
ARseNaL

The city arsenal and its adjoining defensive walls are visible from Arsenal street. Construction on the original two-storied stone building began in the 14th century, but was not completed until 1555. After nearly two centuries of toil this original structure was completely destroyed by re after only 16 years of operation, and the contemporary building was constructed in its place from 1574-75. When the Swedes invaded in 1704 the arsenal took a beating, but all holes were patched within two years. In the 18th and 19th centuries the arsenal was refortied and lost some of its original form. Most recently, two of the upper oors were restored and now house a museum. Parts of the exterior have been excavated in order to reveal original walls, windows and roof. The swords forged in Lviv gained the reputation as some of the best in Europe. In the 18th Century the arsenal was also used as a prison. QD-4, Pidvalna 5, tel. (+380) 32 235 86 61. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 10Hr, kids, students and senior citizens - 5Hr. BLacK StONe HOUse (ChORNa KamiaNYtsia)

The rst city hall was established on Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the middle of the 14th century. Constructed of wood, it was levelled by re in 1381. A new hall was erected in the early 15th century. The contemporary building is a conglomeration of the 15th century structure and three major expansions. The stone tower that hovers above the hall is the second of its kind. The original was erected in 1619, but by the beginning of the 19th century was deemed unstable and demolished. The 65 meter high replacement is a replica of the original. Pace yourselves, its 306 steps up to the viewing platform. In 2008 a local pornographer boldly used City Halls roof as a backdrop for photos, which were splashed all over the Internet. This embarrassment led local authorities to implement stricter security measures including the installation of surveillance cameras. Smile youre being watched by a Ukrainian security cop.QC-4, Rynok pl. 1. Admission to the city hall tower - 5Hr. ItaLiaN YaRd (ItaLiYsKYi dVORYK)

This exceptional architectural monument of the 16th-17th centuries is matchless not only in Lviv, but in the whole of Europe. Construction on this alluring structure began in 1588 and incorporated locally mined, vibrant grey sandstone. The imposing black colour is a product of long-term absorption by the stone of dust, dirt and smoke that swirled about the market (coal was used to heat homes until the 1960s). The facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

This romantic hotspot is located within the Kornjakt Palace on Rynok pl. Lvivians, visitors to the palaces museum and random pedestrians are magnetically drawn to this open-air coee lovers oasis. Completely severed from the complexities outside, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of Italian Renaissance. The mellow music and delectable fragrances make for a truly special caf experience. If it all looks familiar, youve probably seen the courtyard one of the many local and foreign lms that shot scenes here. Concerts are occasionally staged here; the courtyard is known for its uncanny acoustic resonance.QC-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. (+380) 322 74 33 04. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 2Hr. February - March 2014 33

What to see

JaN III SObiesKi PaLace (PaLats KORNjaKta)

This is a unique monument of the Renaissance period, one of only a few existing in Ukraine, and is the largest structure on Rynok Square. Until the late 16th century the area on which the palace stands was occupied by two smaller buildings, which were purchased by a Greek merchant named Constantine Kornjakt. He subsequently ordered the reconstruction of the two houses into a new grandiose edice. Fragments of the older structures have been preserved and include the Gothic hall (an unmatched sample of Lvivs Gothic inuence) and the cross-sectional support beams that hold the third oor ceiling. Following Kornjakts death, the house was taken over Jakub Sobieski, the father of the future Polish king Jan III. The Polish-Russian Eternal Peace Treaty (anything with a name this lofty deserves to fail) was signed at the palace in 1686. Since 1908 the building has housed a museum. One of the brightest expositions of any of the citys museums, the Royal Chambers, can be found here. The palaces Italian Yard is a Lvivian favourite and is not to be missed. QC-3, Rynok pl. 6. Admission 8Hr, children - 3Hr. MaRKet SqUaRe (PLOscha RYNOK)

crowds, cafs and pack of lethargic stray dogs Rynok Square is the heart of this magnicent city. Throughout the Middle Ages stone weights and balances clanked with each sale, livestock pleaded and villains writhed in pain at the punishment stake. Amazingly, within this relatively small area there are 45 protected architectural monuments. Each structure has its own captivating history, but the oldest and most commonly wowed-about are Chorna Kamianytsa (Black Stone House) and Kornjakt Palace (also called King Jan III Sobieski Palace). Regardless the era, the government has always kept a keen eye on the square. The imposing structure in the middle is City HallQC-3/4. The OpeRa HOUse

Time and space gush through old towns veins and swirl round Rynok ploscha: a cobbled whirlpool of colour and sound. With its stunning palaces, fountains, statues, 34 Lviv In Your Pocket

Many European theatres can boast an extraordinary construction history, but Lvivs opera house is unique in that it is built on top of a river. The Poltva river ows beneath the stage and continues through centre deep beneath the asphalt (no doubt a contributor to the many sinkholes that tend to startle foreign visitors). The project was put up for tender and many top European architects tossed in their bids. It was Polish architect Zygmunt Gorgolewski designer of Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge in Berlin, the Gemldegalerie in Dresden and the Vienna State Opera - who proposed the radical and intriguing idea of burying the small river beneath the opera. His plans also included the use of a concrete foundation, a rst for Europe. With optimistic trepidation, the city planners agreed and the Opera House was completed in 1900. The building began to sink right away, but settled in the decades that followed. The structures stunning main faade is widely recognised and appears on the citys emblem and is also displayed on the 20Hr note. Matinees usually begin at 11:00 and evening performances at 18:00.QA-2, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 322 72 88 60, www.lvivopera.org. lviv.inyourpocket.com

What to see
CHURcHES & CaTHEDRaLS
St. GeORge CathedRaL (SObOR SViatOhO YURa) The AssUmptiON ChURch (UspeNsKa TseRKVa) This vibrant example of Renaissance architecture has served as the centre of the Orthodox Christian faith for centuries. In the middle of the 16th century, the Assumption Brotherhood was founded here along with a printing press and a school. The church has experienced many episodes of ruin and reconstruction. The rst Assumption Church was constructed of wood in 1344, but was destroyed by re during an attack on Lviv by Polish feudal lords in 1350. The second church was built of stone in 1421 and experienced a relatively peaceful existence until it too was levelled by the great re of 1527. (With the exception of City Hall and one other structure, the re of 1527 devoured the entire city.) The replacement was completed in 1559 and, you guessed it, was completely destroyed by re in 1571. The danger posed by re was apparently driven home and the cathedral constructed in 1591 has survived until the present. Also located on the premises are Kornjakts Tower and the Chapel of Three Prelates.QB-3, Ruska 7.

This Greek Catholic cathedral, constructed in 1744-1761, is a remarkable example of Rococo architecture. Located at the height of St. George Mount, the cathedral dominates the surrounding area, but doesnt clash with the landscape. The main faade is set-o by a portal watched over by St. Athanasius and St. Leo (works by renowned sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel). In the cathedral itself, there lies a crypt where celebrated gures of the Ukrainian church are entombed. A park is nestled behind the palace and features a distinctive bell tower, which houses a remarkable bell. Cast in 1341, it is the oldest bell in Ukraine. The cathedral grounds are extremely calming and its hard to imagine that hard times once prevailed. Following the death of metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky in March 1946, Soviet authorities coerced church leaders to denounce Rome and join the Russian Orthodox Church. Justice prevailed in 1989 as the Greek Catholic Church re-established itself and resumed operation of the cathedral. The last major event to take place at St. George happened 2001. While visiting Lviv, Pope John Paul II lived in the Metropolitans Palace.QG-3, Svyatoho Yura pl. 5. The ARmeNiaN CathedRaL (ViRmeNsKYi SObOR)

The history of Lviv is a tapestry woven by more than 100 nationalities. Armenians began inhabiting the city in the 14th century and quickly established their own quarter complete with a small cathedral completed in 1370. This original building perished in the re of 1527. The structure that stands today blends a few architectural styles including Old Russian, Gothic and Armenian. The original bell tower was erected in 1571, but was later toppled by the Turks during a siege. The 19th century version of the bell tower is a restoration of the original. The courtyard provides a tranquil setting for the decorative column and gure of St. Christopher. The neighbouring buildings are those of a former Armenian bank, established in the 17th century, and Lvivs oldest pawnshop.QC-3, Virmenska 7. facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

The BeRNaRdiNe CathedRaL aNd MONasteRY This is one of the most inspiring sites in Lviv. The area around which the monastery stands has evolved over the years, but the monastery itself remains as architect Pavlo Rimlyanin envisioned. Constructed in the 17th century, the cathedrals faade is protected by statues of the sacred order of Bernardine and the niches of the second tier hold images of Mary, Jesus and apostles Peter and Andrew. Be respectful, of course, but dont be afraid to drop in on a prayer session. The cathedrals magnicent interior is stirring. Originally located outside the city walls, the monastery had its own defences. A section of the original protective wall remains and can be viewed from Pidvalna street. The impressive column that stands before the cathedral supports a sculpture of St. Jan and was constructed in 1736. Much speculation exists concerning controversial events that have taken place within the monastery and its cells. One of the more famous cases concerns a letter missive (sanction of trade) addressed to Dracula.QD-5, Soborna pl. 1-3.

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What to see
The ChapeL Of the BOims (KapLYtsia BOimiV) The LatiN CathedRaL (LatYNsKYi SObOR) This is a spectacular example of ancient Lvivs Gothic inuence. Ocially known as the Archcathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, its understandable why most just call it the Latin. Constructed in 1360, a relic was incorporated into the rst foundation stone by King Kazimir the Great. Both the interior and exterior have evolved throughout the centuries, but the sanctuary and altar have remained unchanged. The cathedral was severely damaged in the re of 1527. During its restoration in the 18th century, Baroque forms replace those of the Gothic era. The marvellous stained glass windows were incorporated at the end of the 19th century. A cemetery once existed on and around what is now Katedralna ploscha (Cathedral Square). In 1765 all burials were relocated and further burials forbidden. The cemeterys chapel, the Chapel of the Boim Family, remains on the site and is a protected historical monument. Pope John Paul II attended mass here on June 26th, 2001.QC-4, Katedralna pl. 1.

Constructed in the early 17th century on the grounds of what was a city cemetery; this quaint structure was originally intended for use as a crypt by the Boim family. George Boim, a Lviv merchant and moneylender of Hungarian origin, started the project and his son, Paul-George, put the nishing touches on what would become a permanent feature in Lvivs stunning centre. The side of the chapel is decorated with fretwork that gives the impression that the entire structure has been turned inside-out. Fresco portraits of George Boim and his wife Jadwiga can be viewed from Halytska vul. The site has been protected by UNESCO since the 1970s.QC-4, Katedralna pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 274 40 47. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr. The DOmiNicaN CathedRaL (DOmiNicaNsKYi SObOR) The foundation of the Dominican Monastery dates back to the second half of the 13th century when Constance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, commissioned the construction of a small wooden church in gratitude for the generosity of the local Dominican monks. Eventually destroyed by re in 1408, a Gothic-era stone church was constructed in its place. The monastery, which could accommodate more than 100 monks, experienced its heyday beginning in 1612 when it become the central monastery of the Eastern European Dominican Order. In 1742 cracks were detected in the cathedrals arch. An emergency meeting was convened and all rescue options were exhausted. Demolition commenced in 1749. Construction on the new cathedral, designed by architect Jan de Witte, began shortly after.

The St. PeteR aNd PaUL ChURch Of the JesUit ORdeR (KOstiOL JeZUitiV) Located with its back turned to Svobody prosp. and the monument of aras Shevchenko, this is considered one of the more mystical places in Lviv. Much like the Jesuits themselves, the structure is meant to be kept an enigma and random tourists will nd it dicult to gain full access. The church was constructed in the beginning of the 17th century and is modelled after the classic Church of the Ges in Rome. The size of the church is impressive: 41metres long, 26 metres high and 22.5 metres wide. Lvivs founding Jesuits are historically characterized as aggressive missionaries who quickly established a devout following. The sect was also known for its savvy in the area of property development. When they rst settled in Lviv in the 16th century they possessed absolutely no property. When Austria ordered the abolition of the Jesuits 1848, the Lviv brotherhood owned property worth up to one million thalers (big bucks for that time). A section of the premises is currently occupied

The bell tower was constructed in 1865. During the Soviet era the site was used as a regional archive and as a school for would be printing workers. After restoration in 1972 the Dominican Monastery opened as a museum dedicated to the history of religion and atheism; the atheists have since left the building. Religious services have also resumed. QD-3, Museina pl. 1. 36 Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com

What to see
ciTy TOURS
FRee TOURs Of LViV You can see tour schedule on website.QA-2, The Opera House, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 93 795 79 59/(+380) 32 253 24 90, freetoursinlviv@gmail.com, www.freetours.com.ua. LembeRg TOUR Lemberg Tour provides Lviv city tours, tours around Ukraine, accommodation and transport services.QD3, I-2, Vynnychenka 26/1, tel. (+380) 32 276 54 42, lembergtour.lviv@gmail.com, www.lemberg-tour. com.ua. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Wseswit Wseswit provides incoming tours to Lviv and Ukraine, reservation of airline and railway tickets, transfer arrangements. Carpathians, health-resorts of Carpathians, Morshyn, Truskavets, trips to Crimea, reservation of hotels and car rent are also available. QB-5, F. Lista 3/3, tel./fax (+380) 32 297 05 68, wseswit @wseswit.lviv.ua, www.wseswit.lviv.ua. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A6UL by the Lviv Scientic Library and is used as an archive.QB4, Teatralna 11. Excursion starts every hour from 13:00 until 18:00 and can be ordered in Ravlyk Salon (Svobody prosp. 15, tel. 0 32 298 25 95). Exhibition admission 3Hr, student 2Hr. Underground excursion 9Hr, student 7Hr. pl. 2, tel. (+380) 322 75 69 66. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, students and children - 2Hr. Photography allowance - 20Hr. LViV ARt GaLLeRY With 24 halls and more than 400 works from leading French, Italian, Austrian, German, Russian, Polish and Ukrainian masters, this is the largest and arguably nest art museum in Ukraine. The collection of Polish art is unmatched outside of Poland. Pieces in this collection date from the 16th to 20th centuries and include impressive works by leading 19th century masters Artur Grottger and Jan Matejko. The pride of the museum, two world art masterpieces, is Georges de La Tours Payment of Dues and Tiziano Vecellios Portrait of a Man. The halls on the rst oor regularly host thematic exhibitions. Last entrance one hour before close.QA-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 261 44 48. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children - 5Hr. LViV HistORY MUseUm Founded in 1893, this is one of Lvivs oldest museums. Originally located in a chamber of City Hall, the contemporary museum is spread out among four unique architectural monuments dating from the 16th-18th centuries. The collection is composed of more than 330 thousand exhibits that oer fascinating snapshots into the lives of those who inhabited Lviv from ancient times up to the present. The main branch can be found at Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the Kornjakt Palace. During the 17th Century the palace served as a royal roost for Jakub Sobieski, the father of Polish king Jan III, and Wladyslaw IV, the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow and seized the Russian crown. The collections highlights include ancient furniture, pictures, silver ornaments and the Royal Chambers. The museums second and third branches are also located on the square in buildings 4 and 24. The fourth branch is located at the Arsenal on Pidvalna vul. 5 and is dedicated to the regions history of weaponry. Excursions in English can be dicult to rustle up, but most of the exhibits speak for themselves.QC-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. (+380) 32 274 33 04, www.lhm.lviv.ua/eng. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 10Hr, students and senior citizen 5Hr.

MUSEUmS
BRewiNg MUseUm In recognition of the 290th anniversary of one of Europes oldest breweries, the Brewing Museum was opened to the public in 2005. Six-hundred square metres of the brewerys historic premises were specially renovated in order to host this unique museum. The collection contains a plethora of exceptional beer utensils and brewing hardware that represent various epochs. Admission includes a trip to the tasting hall: a titillating bonus for all fans of Lvivske (i) beer. Excursions are available in Polish, Russian and Ukrainian, and descriptions in English under each exhibit make it enjoyable for the rest.QG-1, Kleparivska 18, tel. (+380) 32 294 80 65. Open 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Tue. Admission: with sampling 20Hr, without sampling - 10Hr, children - 5Hr. JOhaNN PiNZeL MUseUm This museum presents 32 sculptures of the world-renown 18th century Lvivian sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel. Often referred to as Ukrainians Michelangelo the beauty and mastery of his work justies this distinction. Little is known about the sculptors life and controversy continues to hover around his identity, but doesnt that make his art all the more alluring? If youve decided that you dont have time to visit a museum while in Lviv: skip lunch, head to Mytna pl. and discover the essence of Ukrainian art.QD-5, Mytna facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

One of the most impressive sights in the city - the collection of Johann Pinzel Museum

February - March 2014

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What to see
LycHaKiV cEmETERy
LViV MUseUm Of ANcieNt ReLics Its appropriate that this museum of ancient relics is located in one of Lvivs most ancient churches. St. John the Baptist Church was originally built in 1250, a time of profound transition and growth in the newly established capital of Galicia. Though it has been reconstructed numerous times, an antique feel prevails. The museum opened in 1993 as a branch of the Lviv Art Gallery. Artistic works, sacral relics and archaeological ndings tell the enthralling story of ancient life in the region. Dated to the second half of the 14th century, the collections Lviv Virgin and Child is one of the oldest existing Ukrainian icons.QC-1, Uzhgorodska 1, tel. (+380) 32 272 28 86. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. MUseUm Of EthNOgRaphY aNd ARt CRafts Known for its unique collection of Ukrainian cultural artefacts, this celebrated museum houses more than 83 thousand items. The stunning rugs and tapestries, delicate wooden crafts and ancient musical instruments provide vivid frames into the lives of the regions past inhabitants. The clock exhibit is the largest and most valuable in Ukraine, but its the vibrant assortment of embroidered national attire that really stands out and tends to bring touring groups to a sudden halt. The collection of jewellery is also impressive and features a remarkable silver episcopal baton dated to the 11th-13th centuries. The main exposition is located within the former premise of a Galician-era bank. A second branch featuring fabrics, porcelain, Dutch wares and furniture from the Renaissance to the beginning of the 20th century is located at Rynok pl. 10.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 15 (Rynok pl. 10), tel. (+380) 32 297 01 57. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr. MUseUm Of HistORicaL VaLUabLes This museum recently opened in 2005 following the restoration of the enthralling Bandinelli Palace. The current exhibitions constitute only part of what will be a much larger display and include a stunning display of gold and silver jewellery, pottery and miscellaneous civic articles. The building itself casts a shadow over the exhibit; to stroll the newly renovated palace halls is worth the meagre charge of admission.QC-3, Rynok pl. 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 06 71. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 3Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr. MUseUm-ShOp FC KaRpatY This is a shop with all sorts of the usual football souvenirs; scarfs, jerseys, coee mugs, etc. And a mini-museum for the local football club - Karpaty FC. The quiet-shrine like room is lled with photos, banners, medals, & trophies of the local teams many conquests throughout the years. It also serves as a ticket outlet for the home matches. Open 11:00-19:00.QB-5, Mykoly Voronoho 3, tel. (380) 67 322 25 67, fax (+380) 32 235 02 07, shop@fckarpaty.lviv.ua, www.fckarpaty.lviv.ua/en/museum/. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. lviv.inyourpocket.com

Arriving in a city for the rst time, most sane travellers dont head straight for the local cemetery. But Lviv is unique in many ways, and one of the citys most distinctive, beautiful and historic locales is the Lychakivske Cemetery. Believe it or not, this is an ideal location to begin your exploration of Lvivs diverse history, fascinating culture and stunning art: what Pre Lachaise is to Paris, Lychakivske is to Lviv. Ocially established in 1786 by Austro-Hungarian authorities, the rst burials actually took place in the 16th century. Since then, more than 400,000 inhabitants have been laid to rest beneath these hallowed and enigmatic grounds. Grave markers hold mournful tributes inscribed in Ukrainian, Russian, German, Polish, Armenian and Latin - evidence of the citys diversity and turbulent past. Throughout the 19th century, plots were reserved by elite and middleclass families, artisans, scientists, spiritual leaders and politicians. For obvious reasons, this trend shifted during the Soviet era, and resulted in a fascinating contrast: wedged between ancient chapels and elite family crypts stand simple monuments, tributes to departed communists. Communal graves of soldiers and freedom ghters can also be found. The most renowned is the grave of the Lww Eaglets. The Eaglets were Polish child soldiers who defended Lviv during the Polish-Ukrainian War (1918-1919). Lviv was ultimately seized by the Soviet Union in 1939; the grave was desecrated and turned into a dump in 1971. Despite opposition by Ukrainian nationalists, the site was restored and reopened in 2005. Lychakivske is a protected historical monument. This is a much deserved designation, as it rivals many of Europes ancient necropolises in not only size, but in the beauty of its sculptures. Visitors are often stopped in their tracks by the remarkable statue of an angle gazing sadly towards heaven. Grief, strength and sacrice are the dominant themes represented in these gripping monuments. Plan on spending at least a few hours if you hope to see them all, and for those with time limitations the sculptures located at the graves of Armenian Archbishop Samuel Stefanowicz, Dr. Jzef Torosewicz and actress Regina Markovsky (Sleeping Beauty) are not to be missed.QK-4, Mechnykova 33, tel. (+380) 322 75 54 15. Admission 10Hr, 5Hr for children. 38 Lviv In Your Pocket

What to see
NatiONaL MUseUm The National Museum was originally established in 1905 as a private collection for the church by metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky. It was later transferred to the city in 1913. Throughout its more than 100 years of existence an extraordinary 130 thousand exhibits have been collected. The museums pride is also Ukraines largest display of Ukrainian sacral art, which dates from the 12th-18th centuries. Icons, sculptures, manuscripts and decorative carvings immortalize Ukraines religious past. The museums branch located at Drahomanova 42 houses a collection of Ukrainian modern art. Most notable are the paintings of renowned 20th century Ukrainian masters. Tours are available in English, Polish, Russian and Ukrainian.QB-3, Svobody prosp. 20, tel. (+380) 32 235 88 56. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 17Hr, students 6.50Hr. ReLigiON HistORY MUseUm This distinctive museum displays exhibits representing Ukraines national religions and is located with the Dominican Cathedral. The cathedral was originally constructed in the second half of the 13th century by Constance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, in recognition of Lvivs gracious Dominican monks. The museum opened in 1972 and was dedicated to the history of religion and atheism; the atheists have since left the building. There are more than 50 thousand exhibits and include a magnicent assembly of icons from the 16th-19th centuries, an impressive set of Torahs and Bibles and voluminous displays of Russian old prints. One of the museums most valuable pieces is Ivan Fyodorovs Ostroh Bible. Fyodorov, an exiled Muscovite, established Ukraines rst printing press in Lviv. Works by numerous renowned theologians from Ukraine and abroad representing Catholicism, Orthodox Christianity, Judaism and other religions are on display in the library. An archaeological exhibition entitled The Museums Treasure is located in the cellar. The cathedral also hosts concerts and organ recitals.QD-3, Museina pl. 1, Dominican Cathedral, tel. (+380) 32 272 91 00. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, 3 Hr for children and students. Night excursion - 500Hr. The ANcieNt WORLd aNd the MiddLe Ages The building that houses this branch of the Lviv History Museum is a fabulous example of 16th century Renaissance architecture. The collection spotlights the history of Western Ukraine from ancient times to the Middle Ages and includes introductions to Lvivs foundation in the 13th century by King Danylo Halytsky and the plight of western Ukrainians under the rule of controversial hetman Bohdan Khmelnytskyi.QC-4, Rynok pl. 24, tel. (+380) 322 72 08 74. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 3Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr. The PhaRmacY MUseUm Pid ChORNYm ORLOm If you havent noticed by now, Ukrainians love pharmaceuticals. Theres a drug store on practically every corner of every city! The foundation of a museum dedicated to the apothecary is very tting. The Pharmacy Museum is lofacebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

Among all pharmacies around Lviv, this one is outstanding

cated in a drugstore established in 1735 by a military pharmacist. The drugstore remains in operation and continues to mix its signature Iron wine used to treat anaemia. This distinctive angular house on the corner of Drukarska and Stavropihiyska hosts an exposition of more than 3,000 articles. The most curious of which are the pharmaceutical scales located in the opening hall. The second hall was originally used as a stockroom and currently displays pharmaceutical instruments from a variety of epochs. Within the third hall youll discover an ancient laboratory that was reproduced on the basis of pictures and engravings. An apartment house belonging to one of Lvivs 16th century petty bourgeois has been reconstructed in the internal court yard.QC-3, Drukarska 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 41. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 5Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr. The WeapON MUseUm ARseNaL Establishing a weapons museum at the Arsenal was a nobrainer for city planners. Its a brisk walk up the hill, but the fascinating array of swords, daggers, spears, lances, re-arms, armour and other military equipment make the climb well worth it. The collage of locally crafted weapons and armour really stirs the imagination. The museum has also acquired samples of ancient weapons from around the world. Chronologically organised by weapon type, youll have no problems nding your own way around and your whacky uncle will denitely spring at the chance to be photographed in authentic knights armour.QD-4, Pidvalna 5, tel. (+380) 32 235 86 61. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 8Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr. February - March 2014 39

Where to stay
The boom is on for Lvivs hotel industry! Throughout its history, the citys stunning architecture, rich history and exciting dining and entertainment options have drawn travellers in hordes. During the last few years, many new establishments were opened to serve Lvivs guests. Now, all hotels and hostels oer a full range of comfort, style and service. Tired of hotels? A number of agencies oer renovated apartments that can be rented on a nightly basis, and are considerably cheaper than many hotel rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are denite pluses.

SYMBOL KEy
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino T Child-friendly F Fitness centre H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace B Outside seating J Old town location C Swimming pool W Wi

CREam OF THE cROp


AstORia The Astoria is a refreshing addition to the Lviv hotel scene. It is in a very convenient location being just a few hundred metres from the opera. Its design is Academic-modern. There are 41 elegantly styled-fully equipped rooms. The price ranges from 990Hr for a single classic (1,450Hr in high season) and 1,310Hr for a comfort double (1,820Hr in high season). The deluxe apartment goes for 2,990Hr and is great for small business meetings. A very healthy buet breakfast is included in the price. In the basement there is a jazz club scheduled to open in spring 2014. The sta was warm and friendly with great English, which is a must for working here.QA3, Horodotska 15, tel. (+380) 32 242 27 01, fax (+380) 32 242 27 16, reception@astoriahotel.ua, astoriahotel.ua. 41 rooms (5 singles 1190Hr, 27 doubles 1310Hr, 3 apartments 2990Hr, 5 Superior 1390 - 1510Hr, Extra bed 250Hr). PiHAULKWhhhh CitadeL INN Located near centre, Citadel is actually a 19th century fortress. Encased in such a unique old-world atmosphere, its easy to shrug o contemporary problems and just relax. Sta is very courteous and adept at serving foreign clients. Twenty-six elegant, ultra-comfortable rooms are available and come standard with air-conditioning, cable TV, safe, mini-bar, bathrobes, slippers, hair-dryer, telephone and Internet access. The romantic Garmata Restaurant serves succulent European and Ukrainian cuisine. Guests are also welcome to enjoy the sauna, gym and conference and banquet rooms.QH-4, Hrabovskoho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295 77 77/(+380) 32 295 90 00, fax (+380) 32 295 90 00, reservation@citadel-inn.com.ua, www.citadel-inn. com/en. 26 rooms (standards 1190 - 1400Hr, superior 1590 - 1800Hr, suite 2990 - 3390Hr, extra bed 200 - 400Hr). PTHARUFLGBKDXwW hhhhh

VAT (20%) and breakfast included unless otherwise stated GRaNd HOteL Grand is extremely adept at meeting the needs of western travellers. Located on Lvivs main thoroughfare, the hotel was completely renovated in the late 90s and has an elegant appeal. Rooms come with classic interiors, modern amenities and views of either the quiet courtyard or of bustling Svobody prosp. The breakfast buet served in Grands renowned restaurant is included in the room charge, as is a membership to an upscale tness centre that features a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, massage service, solarium, aerobics hall and gym. The professional sta is uent in English making for a no-hassle experience.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 72 40 42, fax (+380) 322 76 90 60, reservation@ghgroup.com. ua, www.ghgroup.com.ua. 62 rooms (standarts 880 1150Hr, junior suite 1540 - 1850Hr, suite 2400Hr, extra bed 300Hr). PHARFLGKDW hhhh LeOpOLis Located in a renovated 18th century structure just steps from historic Rynok pl., Leopolis is a nose ahead when it comes to class. All rooms are unique, stylishly designed and come with classy touches such as heated tile oors, anti-allergenic features, stereo systems that weave throughout the rooms (there are even speakers in the shower), high-speed wireless Internet, soundproof triplepane windows, etc. A complimentary buet breakfast is served in the elegant hotels restaurant. Special executive hour service from 17:30 until 19:00 with complimentary soft and alcohol drinks and canaps in the cosy Library will make a good start for your evening.QB-3, Teatralna 16, tel. (+380) 32 295 95 00, fax (+380) 32 295 95 99, reservations@leopolishotel.com, www.leopolishotel. com. 73 rooms (standart 2090 - 2310Hr, superior 2420 - 6050Hr, junior suite 2750 - 2970Hr, suite 4400Hr, etra bed 150 - 300Hr). PHR6ULGKW hhhhh lviv.inyourpocket.com

HOTEL LiSTiNG POLicy


Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room.. 40 Lviv In Your Pocket

Where to stay

NObiLis A great 1st class hotel in the centre which opened in 2011.There are 49 exquisitely decorated rooms ranging from standard to the Nobel Suite. There is a quaint lounge bar open 24 hours and a piano bar with live music daily and a special performance every Sunday. The Nobilis Restaurant has a gourmet blend of tantalizing Mediterranean cuisine and signature local dishes, which are certain to delight your taste sensations and surpass your expectations. It also oers romantic private dinners, breakfast in bed and more. Room service menu available 24-hours. Restaurant hours: 11:00 23:00. Breakfast hours: Monday-Friday: 07:00 - 10:30, Saturday-Sunday 08:00 - 11:30.QI-3, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 25 95, fax (+380) 32 295 79 97, reservations@nobilis-hotel.com. ua, www.nobilis-hotel.com.ua. 49 rooms (40 standards 2475Hr, 8 suites 3630 - 3960Hr, 1 apartment 7040Hr). PiHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh PaNORama LViV HOteL PANORAMA Lviv Hotel is perfect for both business trips and romantic getaways. Located in the heart of the city, apartments have spectacular views of the Opera House and the ancient cityscape that lies beyond. Nice rooms come equipped with air-conditioning, telephone, ltered tap water, refrigerator with mini-bar and satellite TV. The hotel is easy and convenient junction in the centre. The exclusive self-titled Panorama restaurant on the 7-th oor serves a complimentary breakfast, lunch and dinner. The exquisite menu and popular panoramic terrace make this one of the most intriguing and denitely the most romantic venues in the city. Excellent conference facilities are available.QA-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) 32 225 90 00/(+380) 50 431 95 99, fax (+380) 32 225 90 01, reception@hotel-opera.com.ua, www.hotel-opera. com.ua. 51 rooms (12 singles 850 - 1020Hr, 29 doubles 1150 - 1300Hr, junior suite 1540Hr, suite 2380Hr, extra bed 300Hr). PHAR6UFLKW hhhh

UpmaRKET
LH HOteL & Spa If you want to keep t while travelling - this is the place! It is a lovely, modern 34 room hotel near the centre with its own adjoining sport and tness club. The rooms are a kind of modern, hi-tech design with lots of stone. Some even have a glass bathroom. (You gotta see it to believe it). All rooms come with breakfast included and free access to the sport and tness clubs and full size indoor pool. There are also 3 dierent types of saunas and a salon with all the trimmings for the ladies. Use of one of the seven tennis courts is extra as is the ping-pong. There is also a great authentic Italian restaurant open 10:00-23:00 with an average price of just 200Hr. Simply a great place to stay!QI-4, Pl. Petrushevycha 1, tel. (+380) 32 295 60 36, fax (+380) 32 260 23 93, hotellh@gmail.com, www.lhhotel.com.ua. 34 rooms (8 standard 850Hr, 17 standard superior 950Hr, 9 deluxe 1200Hr). PiAFKDCw hhhh Ramada LViV This lovely modern hotel opened in time for the EURO-2012 football championship. It is on the edge of the city just 10 minutes from the airport and is also close to the new stadium. A great buet breakfast with real coee not the usual hotel coee is included. There are two conference rooms for 50 and 200 people respectively. They can be rented by the day or by the hour at very reasonable prices - all fully equipped. The Ramada was made for the disabled in mind. There is laundry service available while a hair dresser and a top of the line tness centre are planned for the not too distant future. We found the sta very helpful and friendly with a great command of English. It may be a bit out of town but shuttle bus service can be arranged.QZymna Voda village, Yavorivska 2a, tel. (+380) 32 243 00 10, fax (+380) 32 243 12 14, reception@ramadalviv.com.ua, www.ramadalviv. com.ua/en/. 103 rooms (12 singles 480 - 580Hr, 86 doubles 600 - 700Hr, junior suite 920 - 1040Hr, extra bed 150Hr). PiHA6UGKwW hhh

1 = 11.70Hr; US$1 = 8.60Hr; 1 = 14.00Hr (1 February 2014 bank rates)

facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

February - March 2014

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Where to stay
MiD-RaNGE
Edem A lovely, quaint hotel near the centre, just 2 years old. It is wheel chair accessible, a rarity in Ukraine! The 20 rooms are beautifully decorated with all extras and range from 560Hr per night for a single to 960Hr for a suite. The restaurant is very popular, with an English menu and very reasonable priced.QF-3, Horodotska 95A, tel. (+380) 32 240 31 05, edem_hotel@ukr.net, www.hotel-edem.lviv.ua. 20 rooms (standard 560 - 696Hr, junior suite 872Hr, suite 960Hr, extra bed 150Hr). PALGKW hhh GeORge Hotel George was founded by George Homan in 1901. The structure itself is a ne example of Neo-Renaissance architecture and was designed by famed Viennese architects. The interior was restored in 2010 meaning that a touch of Soviet remains, i.e. the lift really takes your breath away. The standard and superior rooms are spacious, have been remodelled to the local taste and come standard with telephone, cable TV, Internet access and a refrigerator. Many rooms have romantic views of Svobody prosp. and Lvivs historic centre. Tourist class rooms come at a bargain rate, but youll have to share a bathroom and shower. The service is up to standard and English is not a problem for most of the helpful sta. Georges restaurant-bar is located through the lobby. The Lviv chestnut beef and savoury pork highlight the restaurants reasonably priced menu and the complimentary breakfast buet begins at 7:00.QC-5, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 232 62 36, fax (+380) 32 232 62 42, info@georgehotel. com.ua, www.georgehotel.com.ua. 86 rooms (standard 840Hr, superior 890Hr). PHARKW hhh KUpaVa A fairly new hotel a bit outside the centre with 13 lovely rooms ranging from 500-1600Hr. The restaurant has to be seen to be believed. It is divided into several sections, extravagantly styled as though being in an old Ukrainian indoor-outdoor hunting lodge. The English menu is reasonably priced with a daily complete menu for 55Hr. The sta was very friendly and helpful.QE-2, Komarova 17, tel./fax (+380) 32 245 03 45, office@kupavahotel.com, www.kupavahotel.com. 13 rooms (6 standards 500 - 720Hr, 4 junior suite 930 - 1100Hr, 2 suite 1600Hr). PH6LGKDCW NOta BeNe A modern yet classic Austrian hotel near the railway station. (Never mind the Italian sounding name.) There are exact replicas of the thrones of The Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife, aectionately known as Sissy. The originals were secretly made for them in Lviv when they came here to dedicate a Church in 1903. The downstairs has a brick-classic type of design. There are 59 rooms with lovely beige, Austrian dcor. There are 2 halls available for banquets and private functions. There is also a salon open from 10:00-19:00, and a 24 hour coee shop with room service. There is free parking, WiFi, and all the 42 Lviv In Your Pocket extras. All the sta communicated great in English.QE-4, Polischuka 78, tel. (+380) 32 234 90 90/(+380) 32 234 90 96, info@notabenehotel.com, www.notabenehotel. com. 59 rooms (9 singles 390 - 450Hr, 10 doubles 490 570Hr, 18 business 550 - 635Hr, 15 superior 590 - 650Hr, 4 junior suite 790 - 850Hr, 3 suite 890 - 970Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PiHALKW WieN HOteL Located in the heart of the city on Svobody avenue, Wien oers its guests 21 comfortable rooms oering B&B stay. There is a choice of standard, superior, junior suite and suite. All rooms have cosy welcoming home appeal, oer enthralling views of Lvivs lively city centre and come equipped with air-conditioning, cable TV and Internet access. A summer patio, part of the celebrated Vienna Coehouse restaurant, is one of the most popular venues in town. All rooms are suitable for both single and double occupancy, several rooms oer triple accommodation and there is one quad.QB-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 97 244 43 14, fax (+380) 32 244 43 16, wienhotel@mail.lviv.ua, www. wienhotel.com.ua/en. 21 rooms (singles 620 - 690Hr, doubles 690 - 760Hr, suites 920 - 990Hr, standards 620 - 690Hr, superiors 690 - 760Hr, junior suites 810 - 880Hr, suites 920 - 1040Hr). PARLKW hhh

ApaRTmENT HOTEL
GaLYtsKa KORONa One of the newest hotels in the city, it was opened in 2012. Though the location isnt prime - at the Kiltseva Road, on the from Lviv to Ivano-Frankivsk / Chernivtsi / Bukovel ski resort - it oers very comfortable air conditioned rooms, and is affordable for any wallet. Almost all rooms overlook the forest belt. Hotels restaurant with its royal interior is probably the most special part. The menu (in English) features Ukrainian cuisine, served it a very original way. Grill dished are cooked all year round. There is also a large conference room for up to 200 people, a free guarded parking, a gym and sauna with a swimming pool with ice water.Qend of Zelena street (Kiltseva Road), tel. (+380) 32 277 78 78/(+380) 96 004 51 30, info@galkorona.com, www.galkorona.com. 40 rooms (economy 250 - 350Hr, standard from 430Hr, junior suite from 630Hr, suite from 730Hr). PALKW

BUDGET
EKOteL This is another budget hotel built in time for the EURO-2012 games. One can tell it really is green as after several ights of high-wide spaced stairs carrying luggage one feels so much healthier then if there had been a dirty old lift. The sta all speaks great English and were very friendly and helpful. The price goes from 65Hr per person, 290Hr for 1 or 2, and 390Hr for a room for 3. Half of the rooms have private toilet and shower - the rest share communal facilities. There is no breakfast included but there is a modern large kitchen and common eating room. There is Wi-Fi plus a computer with internet and free coee and tea 24/7. A great deal for lviv.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay
the budget traveller!QG-5, Akademika A. Sakharova 42, tel. (+380) 67 676 28 08/(+380) 95 478 66 77, info@hotelekotel.lviv.ua, www.hotel-ekotel.lviv.ua. 27 rooms (4 doubles 240 - 290Hr, 4 triples 310 - 390Hr, 7 quads 90Hr, extra bed 100 - 150Hr). HAGW SONata Located a ways from the centre, this hotel of 177 rooms has just been beautifully remodeled. Rooms are reasonably priced with a junior suite costing just 850Hr per night. All rooms have all the extras. There are several conference halls and seminar rooms and the Restaurant is open 24/7. QMorozna 14, tel. (+380) 32 23 25 000/(+380) 32 23 25 005, fax (+380) 32 23 25 015, info@sonatahotel.com.ua, www.sonatahotel.com.ua/. 122 rooms (doubles 470Hr, superior double 600Hr, junior suites 750Hr, suites 850Hr). hhh AGW

PERFECT CHOICE FOR

BUSINESS TRIP

HOSTELS
OLd CitY HOsteL A great deal for backpackers and those on a limited budget. Its located right smack dab in the middle of the old city. We found it warm and cosy with a very friendly English speaking sta. All rooms were modern and clean. Theres a communal kitchen and Wi-Fi and breakfast is included. Theres a 10% discount if one books online and a discount for those staying 3 days or longer. Open 24 hours.QBeryndy 3, app. 7, tel. (+380) 32 294 96 44, booking@oldcityhostel.lviv. ua, oldcityhostel.lviv.ua. (doubles 300 - 370Hr, quads 120 - 150Hr, 6-bed dorm 110 - 130Hr, 10-bed dorm 100 - 120Hr, 16-bed dorm 80 - 100Hr). AW The KOsmONaUt A great aordable stay not far from the old town. There are 4, 6, & 8 bed rooms ranging from 80-120Hr per night. A private room is also possible. All spoke English & were very friendly. It has a cosy-family atmosphere with communal kitchen & Wi-Fi.QB-6, Tomashivskoho 4, apt.5, tel. (+380) 93 655 42 19, info@thekosmonaut.com, www. thekosmonaut.com. (quads 120Hr, 6-bed dorm 100Hr, 8-bed dorm 80Hr). LGW
Hotel Galitska Korona (Galician Crown) Rooms from 150 uah / pers. (~ 14/pers.)

CONFERENCES

FAMILY VACATION
TM

ApaRTmENT RENTaL
4REST ApaRtmeNts Feel the home atmosphere in the very heart of the Lion city. Its a great choice for families and independent travellers who prefer apartments with kitchen and bathroom in their disposal. All apartments are located in one of the best examples of 19th century architecture 3-min walk from Market Sq. and Opera House. Both short- and long-term lease are available. All properties are cosy and comfortable, with all amenities your may need for enjoyable stay. Helpful stu speaks English, Polish, Russian and German, and will give you valuable pieces of advice on city exploring. QSvobody prosp. 1/3, tel. (+380) 32 261 50 97/ (+380) 63 732 00 53, 4rest.apartments@gmail.com, www.travel.lviv.ua. PAW facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

TRAVELERS IN GROUPS
Conference-room (for 200 persons), business-lunch and coffe-breaks, sporting facilities, sauna with small pool of cold water, tourist information, car servicing station, parking

Reservation: +38 (032) 277-78-78 cell: +38 (096) 004-51-30 info@galkorona.com | www.galkorona.com

February - March 2014

43

Shopping
ANTiQUES
ANtiqUA QD-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 242 04 23/(+380) 67 948 48 97. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. ARseNaL SaLON QD-4, Pidvalna 5, tel. (+380) 32 275 30 55. Open 10:00 - 20:00. ARt VeRNisaZh QB-2, Teatralna 23A, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 54. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. GOthic HaLL Icons, bronze, art, porcelain, jewelry, silver dishes, ancient furniture.QC-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 60 91, info@gothic-hall.com, www.gothic-hall.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

OpERa maRKET
A great variaty of foods, including fresh vegetables, fruits and pastry, will satisfy every gourmet. There is also a wine cellar with a range of wines to oer.QA-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 07, fax (+380) 32 245 20 36, www.operapassage.com/ en. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAU

SHOppiNG MaLLS
KiNg CROss LeOpOLis King Cross is a regional shopping mall opened on March 26, 2010. It is the largest mall in western Ukraine. The mall has a total area of 116 546 square meters on two levels; including an Auchan hypermarket with an area of 13 000 m, and over 100 commercial stores, boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. The mall is bright, and spacious. One could imagine oneself in any major city in the world! For recreation there is a bowling alley, ice rink, and an Imax movie complex. There is plenty of parking, both above and below ground. A taxi from the city centre costs Hr.40-50. There are some city based marshrutkas to/ from the Mall but we werent that adventurous. Future expansion of the mall is planned and will include an additional 130 stores, and the parking area will be increased by 600 parking spaces.QStryiska 30, Sokilnyky, tel. (+380) 32 242 05 80, info@kingcross.com. ua, www.kingcross.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:00. MagNUs The original building of the Magnus shopping centre was built in 1912-1913 by the renowned Polish architect Roman Felinskyi. Architecture historians believe that the model for the architect was the structure of the shopping centre in Berlin on Leipziger Strasse built in 1896 by the architect Alfred Messel. It is a shining example of world industrial-commercial architecture of the early 20th century. Until 2003 it was known as the Soviet style department store Zum. It is considered by some as the best shopping centre in western Ukraine. There are many international brands represented such as; Trussardi, Ferre, Apriori, Oui, Carre Blanc, 44 Lviv In Your Pocket

Blumarine, John Richmond etc. Magnus is situated in the very centre of Lviv. The sight from the bistro windows on the top oor is lovely. One can see the Opera House, Wysokyj zamok, streets and the old city.QA-2, Shpytalna 1, tel. (+380) 32 244 42 65, www.magnus-store.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. PAULW OpeRa Passage This modern and classy shopping mall found its place right in the very heart of Lviv on Svobody prosp. in a few steps from the Opera Theatre. The building which now hosts Opera Passage long ago was a luxurious hotel and during the Soviet times it hosted a fashion house. Today Opera Passage occupies 7 oors or 5500 sq. m. of the historical building. A wide range of well-known brands could be found here which can satisfy the most hard-toplease customers. Women and men clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, jewellery, cosmetics, perfumes and kids supplies will oer their best for you. For your service there are also a number of restaurants and cafs, supermarket and premium wine cellar one can get high quality alcohol. QA-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 245 20 36, www. operapassage.com/en. Open 10:00 - 21:00. PAL

SOUVENiRS
KUmpeL SOUVeNiR ShOp This quaint gift shop also serves as the entrance to the Kumpel Beer Restaurant upstairs. There are hand-made crafts and souvenirs as well as a wide range of home-made delicacies. There is of course, their trade mark beer, and cheese from the Carpathians to go with it. There are meats and cold cuts from the region and lots of jellies and jams. QB-1, Prospect Chornovola 2B, tel. (+380) 32 290 12 58. Open 11:00 - 00:00. OpeRa DecOR Heartful souvenirs and gifts, hand-made by Lviv artists or imported from renown craftsmen hot spots!QA-3, Svobody prosp. 27, 3 oor, www.operapassage.com/en.

lviv.inyourpocket.com

Directory
MEDicaL TOURiSm
While the low cost of medical services is the primary motivation to travel to Ukraine, some medical tourists seek medical care here because of the immediate availability of procedures and sometimes because of the unavailability of certain procedures in their home countries. Within a large number of good private clinics, Ukraine provides a wide range of high quality medical services. Dentistry, gastroenterology, fertility treatments, orthopaedics and ophthalmology are among the most popular treatment programmes. A unique stem cell treatment is also available in a few clinics around our country. There are a number of companies providing medical assistance and we highly advise you to rely on their services. MedicaL TOUR UKRaiNe Medical Tour Ukraine (MTU) has united the best clinics of the country and is a reliable partner for those who consider getting high-quality medical care in Ukraine at prices about 80% lower than in Europe or the US. The company will develop an individual treatment plan for you before your arrival and will provide all necessary travel and medical assistance. For prices, doctors and clinics, and recommendations visit their web-site.QVolodymyra Velykoho 31, tel. (+380) 98 856 61 19, info@medicaltourukraine. com, www.medicaltourukraine.com.

24-HOUR pHaRmaciES
ApteKa #2 QA-3, Tyktora 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 48. Open 24hrs. TicO QC-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 87. Open 24hrs.

DENTiSTS
RiKOta DeNtaL CeNtRe This clinic was founded in 1990 in Lviv and is proud to be one of the rst private medical centres in Ukraine and one of the best in Eastern Europe. It has united the best professionals, specialists, and the best methods of modern dentistry, providing all kinds of dental treatment. All doctors speak English uently. Rikota goes beyond normal medical services and oer their clients all required help with accommodation, transfers, and travel tours around Lviv and the region. Rikota is located only 15 minutes from the city centre, and 10 minutes drive from Lviv International Airport.QVolodymyra Velykoho 31, tel. (+380) 32 234 02 14/(+380) 32 234 02 15, fax (+380) 32 297 12 02, office@ rikota.com.ua, www.rikota.com.ua. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PAUL

facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket

February - March 2014

45

Directory
AccOUNTaNTS & CONSULTiNG
EUROpeaN BUsiNess AssOciatiON QG-4, Stepana Bandery 6, oce 3, tel. (+380) 32 261 29 28, fax (+380) 32 261 22 68, lviv@eba.com.ua, www. eba.com.ua. PRicewateRhOUseCOOpeRs QE-4, Heroiv UPA 72, tel. (+380) 32 242 53 05, pwc. ukraine@ua.pwc.com, www.pwc.com/ua. ItaLY QC-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 27 56. KaZaKhstaN QG-2, Yakova Rappoporta 6, tel. (+380) 322 25 57 67. LatVia QViacheslava Chornovola 57, tel. (+380) 322 40 33 70/ (+380) 322 94 82 20, fax (+380) 322 94 82 23. LithUaNia QH-4, Kotsubynskoho 13/1, tel. (+380) 322 98 96 50. NetheRLaNds QG-5, Akademika Sakharova 42, tel. (+380) 322 97 19 06/(+380) 322 97 14 49. POLaNd QI-5, Ivana Franka 110, tel. (+380) 322 97 08 61/(+380) 322 97 08 62. RUssia QK-4, Levytskoho 95, tel. (+380) 322 75 24 63/(+380) 322 75 05 77, www.lviv.mid.ru.

DRy cLEaNERS
BULbashKi (BUbbLes LaUNdRY) QVolodymyra Velykoho 117, tel. (+380) 32 247 49 24, bulbashki@gmail.com, bulbashki.com. Open 9:00 20:00. Closed Sun. PUV ChYstO QA-4, Petra Doroshenka 15, tel. (+380) 32 298 94 74. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

LaWEyRS
ARZiNgeR QG-4, Henerala Chuprynky 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 96 96, mail@arzinger.ua, www.arzinger.ua. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KaiZeN QG-5, Komaryntsia 2, tel. (+380) 32 247 35 36, info@ kaizen-law.com, www.kaizen-law.com. LViV RegiONaL LawYeRs BaR QD-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6/8, tel. (+380) 32 272 16 24. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

FiTNESS cLUBS
EUROspORt QI-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 276 33 28. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. C GRaNd SOphia QC-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 40 94. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.

FOREiGN REpRESENTaTiONS
AUstRia QC-6, Shevchenka prosp. 26, tel. (+380) 322 61 20 14. BeLaRUs QE-3, Horskoii 2, tel. (+380) 322 37 27 30/(+380) 322 99 24 60, fax (+380) 322 99 24 60. BeLgiUm QD-6, Ivana Franka 14, tel. (+380) 32 260 20 80/(+380) 32 260 01 49. BRaZiL QE-2, Cholovskoho 2, tel. (+380) 322 97 11 51/(+380) 322 97 65 08, fax (+380) 322 97 11 77. CaNada QD-5, Akademika Bohomoltsya 2, ap.4, tel. (+380) 322 97 17 72, fax (+380) 322 97 81 54. GeORgia QB-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 97 40 98/59 32 32, fax (+380) 322 76 94 84. GeRmaNY QD-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 322 75 71 02, fax (+380) 322 76 28 40. HUNgaRY QKniahyni Olhy 116, tel. (+380) 322 64 58 22/(+380) 322 24 43 90, fax (+380) 322 64 15 23. 46 Lviv In Your Pocket

OFFiciaLS
CitY COUNciL QC-4, Rynok pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 254 60 06, fax (+380) 32 274 40 85, www.city-adm.lviv.ua. MiNistRY Of FOReigN AffaiRs QD-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 18, oce 118-119, tel. (+380) 32 235 64 78, www.mfa.gov.ua.

SWimmiNG pOOLS
AqUapaRK QKniahyni Olhy 114, tel. (+380) 32 263 60 55. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 20-40Hr. GRaNd SOphia QC-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 40 94. Open 08:00 - 21:30. 80Hr per hour. Children - 40Hr.

LaNGUaGE cOURSES
INteRNatiONaL HOUse QI-4, Petrushevycha pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 225 51 90, www.ihlviv.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. LaNgUage Fast QD-6, Levytskoho 3/1, tel. (+380) 32 275 16 19. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. lviv.inyourpocket.com

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Street register
Kotsylovskoho J/K-5 Krakivska B-2/3, C-3, I-2 Krekhivska G/H-1 Kremenetska E-5 E S S E N TI A L Kropyvnytskoi pl. F-3 Kryva Lypa prov. A-4, H-3 C I TY G U I D E S Kubiyovycha I-5 Kushevycha H-1 Henerala Hryhorenka pl. H-2 Akademika Andriya Kvitky-Osnovianenka F-2 Henerala Hrytsaia J/K-5 Sakharova F-5, G-4/5 Kvitneva F-5 Henerala Tarnavskoho Akademika Bohomoltsia Kyivska F-4 J-4/5, I-5 D-5/6, I-3 Kyryla i Mefodiia H/I-4 Henerala Yunakieva E-1/2 Akademika Filatova J-3 Lazneva A-2, H-2 Henerala Zasiadka G-5 Akademika Hnatiuka Lemkivska H-1 Heroiv UPA E/F-4 A-3/4, H-2/3 Leontovycha G-2 Hertsena C-6, I-4 Akademika Kravchuka J-3 Lesi Ukrainky B/D-3, I-2 Hlibova H-4 Akademika Krypiakevycha Lesia Kurbasa A-3/4, H-2 Hlyboka F/G-4 K-3 Levandivska E-1 Holovatskoho F-3 Akademika Liulky A-1, H-1 Levytskoho D-6, I/K-4 Hopsova E-5 Akademika Pavlova J-4 Liainberha H-2 Horodotska Akademika Romana Kuchera Lipska E-4 A/B-2, A-3, E/G-3, G/H-2 G-2 Lisna K-2/3 Horodynskyh E-5 Akademika Serhiya Litnia H-5 Hrabovskoho G/H-4 Yefremova E-5, F-4 Lobachevskoho I-1 Hrebinky H-2 Albanska K-5 Lukasha G-5 Hretska H-5 Anatoliya Vakhnianyna K-5 Lutskoho E-1/2 Hryhorovycha B-6, I-3/4 Aralska K-5 Lva Tolstoho I/J-5 Hutsulska J-2 Arkhitektorska G-3/4 Lychakivska I/K-3 Hvardiyska G-4/5 Azovska K-5 Lypneva pl. E-4 Illariona Sventsitskoho I-5 Bankivska A-4, B-4/5, H-3 Lysenka D-3, I/K-2 Ivana Bohuna G-4 Barvinskyh J-2 Lystopadovoho Chynu G/H-3 Ivana Fedorova Baturynska G-1 Lyzhvjiarska H-5 C-3/4, D-4, I-2/3 Bazarna G-1/2 M. Slobodivny J-4 Ivana Franka D-5/6, I-3/4 Beryndy B/C-4, H/I-3 Magazynova F-2 Ivana Franka pl. I-5 Bibliotechna G-3/4 Maiera Balabana A-2, H-2 Ivana Gonty B/C-2, I-2 Bohdana Khmelnytskoho Maksyma Kryvonosa Ivana Gorbachevskoho F-5 B-1/2, H/J-1, H/I-2 D-2, I/J-2 Ivana Karpyntsia G-5 Bohdana Lepkoho I-2/3 Maksyma Zalizniaka E-4 Ivana Levynskoho F-4 Boi-Zelenskoho G-5 Mala J/K-3 Ivana Ohiyenka G-2/3 Bolharska H-5 Malaniuka pl. B-5, H-3 Ivana Pidkovy pl. B-4, H-3 Borysa Romanytskoho G-4 Marka Vovchka F-2/3 Ivana Rutkovycha I-5 Brativ Mikhnovskyh F-2/3 Markiyana Shashkevycha pl. Ivana Sharanevycha E/F-2 Brativ Rohatyntsiv C/D-4, I-3 G-4 Johara Dudaieva B/C-6, H/I-3 Brativ Tymoshenkiv G-4 Martovycha B/C-6, I-4 Josypa Slipoho J-4/5 Briulova G-4 Mateika G-3 Kalicha Hora A/B-6, H-4 Brovarna G-2 Mechnikova K-3/4 Kameniariv G-3 Cathedralna pl. B/C-4, I-3 Medova A/B-1, H-1 Karaimska I-1 Chaikovskoho Melnyka E/F-4 Karmaluka K-3 A/B-6, B/C-5, H/I-3 Mendeleeva H/I-4 Karpatska J-4/5 Chekhova J-3 Mentsynskoho H-2 Karpinskoho F-4, G-3 Chereshneva I-4 Meretyna Bernarda F-3 Kastelivka F-5, G-4 Chernihivska J-3 Metrolohichna F-5 Katliarska H-2 Chernivetska E-3 Mickiewicza B-5, I-3 Kerchenska K-5 Chervona F-5 Modesta Sosenka F-1 Kharkivska K-2/3 Cholovskoho E-2 Morozenka F-2 Khimichna H-1 Danyla Halytskoho pl. C-2, I-2 Morshynska F-5 Kholodnoho K-5 Dekarta F-3 Muliarska A/B-1, H-2 Khorvatska G-2 Denysa Lukjianovycha G-4 Muravy G/H-3 Khotynska F-3 Detka B-1/2, H-1 Museina pl. C-3, I-2 Khudozhnia E-4 Dmytra Bortnianskoho E/F-2 Mykhaila Hrushevskoho I-4 Kleparivska G-1/2 Dmytra Danilyshyna A-2, H-2 Mykhaila Verbytskoho G-4 Klionovycha D-6, I-3 Dmytra Dontsova J-3 Mykhaila Yatskoho F-1 Kniahyni Olhy F-5 Dmytra Huni F-1 Mykhalchuka A-3, H-2 Kniazha J-2 Dmytra Vitovskoho Myklukho-Maklaia J-2 Kniazia Leva C-2, I-2 G/H-4, H/I-5 Mykoly Voronoho B-5, H/I-3 Kniazia Mstyslava Udaloho Dniprovska J-4/5 Mykoly Zerova E-4 A/B-2, H-2 Dolynskoho H/I-1 Mytna pl. D-5, I-3 Kniazia Romana C-5/6, I-3 Dorosha J-4 Mytropolyta Andriya F-3 Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla Drahomanova C-6, H/I-4 Mytropolyta Angelovycha F-3 pl. B-2, H-2 Drohobycha A-4/5, H-3 Mytropolyta Lepkivskoho Kniazya Sviatoslava pl. F-2 Drukarska C-3, I-2 K-2 Kobylianskoi I-4 Dvortsova pl. E-3 Nalyvaika A-3, H-2 Kokorudza F-4 Dzherelna H-1/2 Nasypna C-2, I-2 Kolbera G-4 Dzherelna H-1 Nechuia-Levytskoho G-4 Kolessy H-4 Dzyndry H-5 Nekrasova J/K-3 Koliivschyny pl. D-4, I-3 Fedkovycha E-3/4 Nizhynska K-3 Komarova E/F-2 Ferentza Lizta B-5, H-3 Novakivskoho G-3 Komaryntsia G-5 Furmanska A-3, H-2 Novyi Svit F/G-4 Konopnytskoi I-4 Galileia K-4 Nyzkyi Zamok B-3, H-2 Konotopska E-5 Gazova A-1, H-1 Odeska F-3 Kooperatyvna F-2/3 Glynky G-5 Ohirkova I-1 Kopernyka Gogolia G-3 Oleksandra Arkhypenka I-4/5 A-5/6, B-5, G/H-4, H/I-3 Gorskoii E-3/4 Oleksandra Fredra C-6, I-3/4 Korduby J/K-1 Grunvaldska F-4 Oleksandra Konyskoho I/J-4 Korniakta B-3, H/I-2 Haidamatska I-1 Oleksandra Olesia K-5 Koroliova J-5 Halytska C-4, I-3 Oleksy Dovbusha J-2 Korotka E/F-3 Halytska pl. C-4, I-3 Oleny Pchilky I-4 Kortumivka G-2 Hanny Barvinok E/F-5 Oleny Stepanivny E/F-2 Kostiushka A-4, H-3 Hartmana Vitvera J-3 Oleny Telihy K-5 Kostomarova I-4 Havryshkevycha C-3, I-2 Olhy Basarab J-5 Kotliarevskoho F/G-4 Henerala Chuprynky Olzhycha K-5 Kotliarska A-2, H-2 E/F-5, F/G-4 Opilskoho F-4 Kotsubynskoho H-4/5 Henerala Hrekova G-1 Opryshkivska J-1 Ostapa Nyzhankivskoho C-5, I-3 Ostrohradskyh G-5 Ostrozhskoho K-3 Ozarkevycha F/G-3 Ozheshko E-5 Paliia I-4 Panchyshna K-5 Panteleymona Kulisha A-1/2, H-1/2 Paparivka I/J-1 Parfanovychiv J-3 Parkova I-5 Pasternaka E-4 Pavla Kovzhuna B-5/6, I-3 Pavlyka J-4 Pekarska D-5, I/J-3, J/K-4 Peremyska E-5 Pereyaslavska J-5 Perova F-3 Petra Doroshenka A-4/5, B-4, G/H-3 Pid Dubom H-1 Pidvalna D-3/4, I-2/3 Pidmurna B-2, H-2 Pidzamche I-1 Pisha C-2, I-2 Piskova K-3 Pochaivska K-1 Pogulianka K-5 Pokhyla G-5 Polischuka E-4 Politekhnichna G-4 Popovycha B-6, H/I-4 Povstanska E-5 Profesorska G-3/4 Prosvity D-4, I-3, J-2 Pryrodna F-5 Pylnykarska B-1, C-2, I-2 Repina K-3 Rizni pl. A-2, H-2 Rodyny Krushelnytskyh J/K-5 Romanchuka J-4 Rudanskoho B/C-5, I-3 Ruska C/D-4, I-2/3 Rusovyh F-4 Rybna C-2, I-2 Ryleieva G-3 Rylskoho J-4 Rymlianyna D-5, I-3 Rynok pl. C-3/4, I-2/3 S. Ludkevycha I-5 Sadovskoho K-3 Saksahanskoho C-6, I-4 Samiylenka I/J-4 Sarjiana E-4 Schekavytska E-2 Schepkina G-3 Sechenova F-3 Selskyh E-4/5 Serbska C-4, I-3 Severy I-5 Sheptytskyh F-3 Shevchenka E-1, F/G2 Shevchenka prosp. C-5/6, I-3/4 Shevska B-3, I-2 Shkilna I-1 Sholom-Aleikhema H-2 Shopena H-2 Shota Rustavelli I-4/5 Shpytalna H-2 Shukhevycha C/D-6, I-3 Shymzeriv K-4 Sianska B-2, H-2 Sichovykh Striltsiv A-4, H-3 Simsotrichchia H-1 Skelna I-4 Skliana F-1/2 Skovorody K-3 Slovatskoho A-5, H-3 Smal-Stotskoho E-4 Smerekova B/C-1, I-1 Smolskoho J-3 Snopkivska I-5 Soborna pl. D-5, I-3 Solodova K-3 Solomii Krushelnytskoi G/H-3 Sorokhteya E-1 Stara B-2, H-2 Staroyevreiska C/D-4, I-3 Stavropihiyska C-3, I-2 Staroznesenska K-1 Staryi Rynok pl. B-2, I-2 Starytskoho F-4 Stepana Bandery F-3/4, G-4 Stefanyka A-5/6, B-6, H-3/4 Stetska C-6, I-4 Storozhenka E-2 Strimka I-1 Stryiska G/I-5 Studentska J/K-5 Sviatoho Yura pl. G-3 Svobody prosp. H-2/3 Sydora Holubovycha F-3 Tamanska H-2 Tatarska H/I-1 Teatralna B-2/4, H-2, I-3 Tekhnichna G-3 Tershakivtsiv J-3/4 Teslenka H-1 Tobilevycha F-4 Tomashivskoho B-6, H-3 Torhova pl. A-2, H-2 Tsekhova H-1 Tugan-Baranovskoho J-3/4 Turetska H-5 Turianskoho F-1 Tutunnykiv I-5 Tykha B-5, H-3 Tyktora A-3, H-2 Ulasa Samchuka I-5 Universytetska H-3 Ustyianovycha G-3 Uzhhorodska C/D-1, I-2 Vagova A-2, H-2 Valova C/D-4, I-3 Vasylevycha J-4 Vasylkivskoho E-4 Venetsianova H-4 Verkhatskoho J-3 Vernyhory F-2/3 Vesela B-1, H-1/2 Veteraniv G-1 Viacheslava Chornovola prosp. A-1/2, H-1/2 Vicheva C-2, I-2 Vicheva pl. B-3, H-2 Virmenska B/C-3, H/I-2 Vodohinna J-5 Volodymyra Antonovycha E-4/5, F-4 Volodymyra Ivasuka J-4/5 Volodymyra Korolenka J-2/3 Volodymyra Vynnychenka D-2/5, I-2/3 Voloschaka H/I-5 Voloshyna C-6, I-3/4 Voloska I-5 Vuzka J-3 Viytovycha F-3 Vyshenskoho K-3 Vyshyvanoho pl. I-5 Vysokyi Zamok D-1, I/J-2 Yakova Rappoporta G-2 Yaponska F-4 Yaroslava Mudroho F-2/3 Yaroslava Prstaka G-2 Yasna E-2 Shevska B-3, I-2 Yeroshenka E/F-1 Yeroshenka G-1 Yevgena Konovaltsya E-4/5, F-4 Yevgena Petrushevycha I-4 Zakharievycha F-4 Zaklynskyh K-1 Zaliznychna E-2/3 Zamarstynivska B-1, H-1 Zamknena G-3 Zamkova C/D-1, D-2, I-1 Zankovetskoi J-3 Zarytskyh H/I-5 Zdorovjia F-4 Zelena I/J-4, J/K-5 Zernova A-2, H-2 Zhovkivska I-1 Zhukovskoho F-4 Zhyzhky B-2/3, H/I-2 Zolota F-1, G-2 Zvenyhorodska pl. B-2, I-2

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