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PUBLICATION

POUR
Young. Fresh. Spirited.

Rosé
page 38

Explore the flavors of this attractive wine

Pour Magazine 5½” x 8¼” High end wine magazine that is targeted to 21-30 year old working professionals.

25 best wines for the summer
page

72

U.S. $4.50 Canada $5.50

America’s great value winery
page

108

www.pourmagazine.com

POUR
April 29-May 2/Italy Vinitaly
Vinitaly, Italy’s annual exhibition in Verona, boats some 4,200 exhibitors this year. There will also be quided tastings and seminars.

Happenings
April 2007 Vol. 26, No. 2
publisher and editor

The Buying Guide
123 125 126 128 149 158 162
Buying Guide Contents Spectator Selections About the Buying Guide New Wines From Around the World Shopping List Tasting Report: 2004 Red Burgandy Special Report: 1996 Piedmont

May 23-25/CA Hospice du Rhône
Producers and enthusiasts will gather in Paso Robles for a weekend of tasting, bowling and auctions. Highlights will include a seminar featuring Le Vieux Donjon.

JoshuA GreeNe Managing editor tara q. thoMas
art director

eleNA BessArABoVA
senior editor

WolfGANd WeBer associate editors Nicole drummer pillippe NeWliN
critics-at-large pAtrick J. comiskey peter liem pAtrico tApiA graphic designers

May 11-15/CO Taste of Vail
This year’s Taste of Vail kicks off with a Colorado lamb cook-off, just one of many chances to taste wines from US and international wineries in a stunning mountain town.

May 27-29/LA New Orleans Wine & Food Experience
The New Orleans Wine & Food experience features wine tastings and live jazz at antique storers and art galleries throughout the city.

dAVid l. meriN steVe WilliAms
special correspondent

dAVid dArliNGtoN
contributing editors

108 Americ’s great value winery

CALENDAR
May 13/IL Malt Advocate WhiskyFest Hyatt Regency, Chicago May 19/TX Malt Whisky Society Extravaganza The Fairmont Hotel, Dallas May 19-21/KS Midwest Winefest Wichita May 28/TN L’Ete du Vin Premiere Auction Nashiville Benefit: American Cancer Society June4-6/FL International Food & Wine Festival The Biltmore Hotel, Coral Gables

ANthoNy GiGlio dAVid WoNdrick
copy editors

WilliAm hiroshi looB christiNe leddy
contributing writers

mAx AlleN phillipp Blom heAther irWiN
contributing artist

POUR

online

BArtomueu AmeNGuAl NicholAs BAsiloN mArViN colliNs & Marketing

Exclusive information for subscribers to cork & wine online:
2006 Calivornia Cabernet Senior editor James Laube
previews the upcoming vintage, with a list of top-scoring wines from barrel.

circulation

circulation director

W. chArles squires
website coordinator

JANel smAlls
Marketing coordinator

Contact us
Pour magazine editorial send comments and questions via e-mail (corkandwine@ aexp.com), our web site (corkandwine.com) or fax (212-764-2177). Or mail them to “Letters.” cork & Olive, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036. Please include your name, address and daytime telephone number. All submissions become the property of cork & wine and may be published in the magazine or appear on corkandwine.com. Customer Service & Subscriptions For 24-hour help, please go to our Web site (corkandwine.com/customerservice) or call 800-333-6569 Advertising For more information, call 212-382-5676

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2006 bordeaux Before you buy futures, read senior editor
James Suckling’s analysis and tasting notes from his barrel tastings of the latest vintage. Also, guest blogger JeanGuillaume Prats of Château Cos-d’Estournel shares his insights during the cruical en primeur weeks in Bordeaux

comAG mArketiNG Group

advertising associate publishers

michAel l. kiNNey leo h. lohrmAN
Editorial and Business Office Pour Magazine, 2 E. 32nd St., Suite 601, New York, Ny 10001 Pour Magazine is publish eight times a year by Pour Magazine, inc

Tasting Highlights Get a jump on the most exciting new
wine releases with sneak peeks from our editors’ latest tasting.
visit pourmagazine.com to find links to all of the following resources

E-mAiL NEWSLEttErS Our four newsletters deliver essential information straight to your inbox: ° WiNE & HEALtHY LiviNG Health news, answers to your health questions and wellness tips ° SiPS & tiPS Great value-wine recommendations, plus drinking, travel and wine advice

Wine lovers who enjoy full bodied reds have a hard time taking pink seriously. But rosé is moving up fast, powered by rising quality and an inherent food-friendliness. -cover story

POUR Contents
May 31, 2007 Vol. 32, No. 3

“Buenos Aires delivers
a mélange of Europe and South America. Its energy is infectious and its people friendly, making it an ideal destination. Its not Paris or Madrid, and you won’t mind.”
page 102 102 travel to Buenos Aires

38 rosé from around the world 108 Great American winerys 72 Best wines for summer

Cover Story
38 rosé renaissance Rosé’s quality is on the rise, and whether sparkling or still, this fresh, fruity wine is the perfect summertime drink. we present an in-depth look at pink wines 44 rosés by region Profiles of six producers located in different corners of the world 50 recommended Sparkling and Still rosés 52 A Menu to Match Food-friendly and fun. Rosé makes a great partner for many dishes

Features
72 Best Wines for the Summer As the first spell of really hot, humid weather strikes the region, thoughts turn to summer wines 82 top Producers A preview of the vintage reveals high quality whites and possibly the best Pinot Noirs in a generation 108 Wine Matters America’s great Value Winery

GIFts
63 Congratulations, Graduate Give gifts that will start a budding enophile down the path to becoming a full-fledged wine lover

19 tates Avocados; an insider’s guidebook to Paris restaurants; organic chocolate 27 the Savvy Shopper Red Burgundy and a host of values 35 Letters 117 Collecting The South Beach Wine & Food Festival pairs tasting and fun

trAveL
102 Bienvenidos a Buenos Aires Delicious beef frome the PPampas and hearty Malbecs from Mendoza help fuel the Argentine capital’s distinctive culture and cuisine

Departments
9 this Issue 14 Upfront Alcohol may deter arthritis

Rosé
serious rosé
38

bubbly and still versions of this wine are gaining respect and new fans
Rosé is the underdog of the wine world. Wine lovers who enjoy sitting down with a full-bodied glass of red have a hard time taking something pink seriously. But rosé is moving up fast, powered by rising quality and an inherent foodfriendliness. With the warm days of summer just around the corner, there’s no time like the present to enjoy rosé’s fresh, fruity pleasures.

41

six profiles

44

top wines

50

POUR • M ay 31,2007

the best examples of rosé, whether still or sparkling, combine attributes of both red and white wines.

P

While rosé is now produced around the world, Provence, in southern France, remains the region that most people associate with the wine

Rosés can show lovely cherry, melon and berry flavors, backed by a hint of depth and tannins as well as refreshing acidity. With the exception of rosé Champagnes, which can offer monumental quality and prices to match, these are not wines that demand deep contemplation. Rather, they are best enjoyed as a lively quaff at the end of a long day. “Save your Cabernet Sauvignons for a cold winter night,” says Alpana Singh, wine director of Lettuce Entertain You, the Chicago restaurant group that includes Cork & Olive’s Grand Award-winning Tru. “On a summer day, when it’s 90 degrees out, I’m drinking rosé.” American wine drinkers have shown an increasing interest in rosé in the past five years. Sales of imported rosé, which tend to be dry, grew 40 percent in 2004 than in 2005. While the category is still tiny compared with other wines, rosé’s rapid growth is something to watch. Quality has been on the rise as well. In 1995,

Cork & Olive reviewed 94 rosés: 65 still wines, eight of which scored very good (85 to 89 points on our 100 point scale), and 29 sparkling wines, seven of which rated outsdanding (90 to 94 points). Last year, our editors reviewed more than 200 rosés: 135 still )64 very good, one outstanding) and 88 sparkling wines (36 outstanding). Last summer, rosé appreciation in the United States reached a critical mass. Restaurants began putting pages of rosé specials on their wine lists. Young partygoers in Long Island’s Hamptons were sipping Provencal rosés such as Domaines Ott and calling it “D.O.” “For some reason, rosé sales popped last year,” says Efrain Madrigal, wine director at Sam’s Wine and Spirits in Chicago. Rosé sales at Sam’s stores climbed about 25 percent in 2006, Madrigal estimates. Rosé Champagne exports, which made up about 3 percent of all Champagne exports, have swelled to 7 percent in the past few years

erhaps the boom in imported rosé sales was only a matter of time. Rosé has a long tradition as a casual everyday sipper in Europe, where almost every winemaking nation produces some. In fact, many red wines, including famed red Burgundies such as Volnay, actually started out ppink, as winemakers had less control over fermentation and didn’t want to extract too much color or tannin. But even as winemakers gained control over the fermentation process and red wines became darker, many wineries kept producing rosés. On any sunny summer afternoon in Provence, you canfind old men taking shade under the ppine trees and drinking tumblers of rosé. It’s fitting to have such a refreshing drink in so warm a climate, especially since the local Provencal varieties are largely medium to full bodied red grapes, such as Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, whose red wine versions are hardly cool quaffs. Rosé’s more mixed reputation with American wine lovers, meaninwhile, is likely because in this country, pink has long signified sweetness. In the early 1960s, California giant Gallo introduced sweetned “pink Chablis alongside its “Hearty Burgundy.” Around the same time, sweetned pink sparklers from Portugal, such as Mateus and Lancers, became best sellers. (By the late ‘80s, Mateus alone accounted for 40 percent of Portugal’s table wine exports.) But those sales paled in comparison to white Zinfandel’s. Interestingly, the first white Zin was the product of an enological mishap. For years, Sutter Home had drained off some of the juice from its Zinfandel before fermentation (in order to give more concentration to the juice left on the skins), and made the drained juice into a dry, pale rosé. But in 1975, the fermentation got stuck-the yeast died off before consuming all the sugar. Tasting the pink, sweet wine a few weeks later, the winemaker decided to commercially bottle it. The first of the “blush” wines, it was an instant hit and was soon followed by white Merlot and white Grenache. Blush sales in the United States grew rapidly, peaking at 43 million cases in 1990, according to Impact Databank. While blush was effective in introducing wine to novice drinkers in America, it killed the demand for dry rosé. Pink had become associated with sweetnes, and as the United States moved toward less sugary wines, blush and rosé sales began to decline, shrinking to 31 million cases this past year (though white Zinfandel remains a cash cow for larger California producers, including Sutter Home and Beringer). The recent demand for dry rosé has spurred importers to look for new producers, and rosé makers are increasingly investing in quality. Champagne houses too are taking their rosés more seriously looking for Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and building winers spedifically

for red wine destined for rosé production, according to Jean-Pierre Vincent, winemaker at Nicolas Feuillatte. Selling rosé in this country still requires overcoming consumer’ prejudices, however. One American who has been instrumental in leading the charge is Charles Bieler, who started selling his family’s rosé in the United States in the late ‘90s. Bieler’s father, a swiss-American who owned Château Routas in Provence, had asked his son to help him market the wines in America. The Bielers were trying to make high quality dry rosés, but were having trouble breaking through the stigma attached to pink wine. Bieler decided to embrace the color head on, buying a 1965 pink Cadillac and driving across the country, often wearing a pink hat or tuxedo, and daring retailers and consumers to drink pink. Persistent and creative, he was an effective one-man traveling medicine show. Sales improved, and Bieler’s father accepted a generous offer to sell Routas in 2005. Bieler moved on to become a founding partner of Three Thieves, a California company that sells affordable wines in innovative packaging, But he
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couldn’t resist the call of rosé: He and his family recently began negotiating with Provencal growers again and released their first vintage of Bieler Père et Fils last year. Bieler is wearing pink again.

R

osé is produced using one of two methods. The more common is maceration. Red grapes are crushed, and the juice is allowed to sit in contact with the skins, as in redwine production. After several hours or even days, but before fermentation, the winemaker drains some or all of the juice from the skins, transfers it to a new tank and ferments it sans skins. The juice has enough time to pick up some of the pigments, phenols and tannins from the skins, but not to the extent of a red wine. In the past, most rosés were simply by products of red-wine production. Winemakers would “bleed off,” or drain, only some of the juuice from the skins after maceration. This method, known as saignée, created two bathces of juice. The drained juice could be fermented as rosé, while the juice left on the skins would proce a more concentrated red wine. However, as demand for rosé increased, winemakers began to make the wine from grapes specifically for that purpose. Timing can be very tricky. How long the juice sits on the skins determines how dark the rosé will be. How much red-wine character it will show. The timing depends on the grapes used for example, Pinot Noir skins, which are thin and light in pigment and tannins, will need more time with the juice than will Mourvèdre. Too much extraction produces wine with neither the freshness of rosé nor the weight of a red wine. Because this variation in grapes and extraction, rosés differ quite a bit in color and flavor. They range from near-whiteonion skin, cantaloupe or salmon-to bright pink or crimson, similar to strawberry or watermelon. The second method of making rosé, used almost exclusively in Champagne, is to make seperate red and white wines, then blend a bit of the red into the white. Voilà-pink. With proper care blending can produce an outstanding rosé Champagne, as Krug has proved with its elegant

non-vintage brut rosé cuvée. According to Oliver Krug, the house blends wines from four or five different vintages and 15 different villages. More houses are using maceration, however, as rosé Champagne sales continue to grow nce you decide to take the rosé plunge, you’ll have an infinite number of shades and styles from which to choose. Part of the reason for this is because almost every wine region makes some rosé, using local red grapes. In Italy, rosé is known as rosato, and is often made from sangiovese. In Spain, it is rosado, made in Rioja and Navarra from Garnacha or Tempranllo. The Germans call the wine Weissherhst and make it from a variety of grapes, including Pinot Noir and Lemberger. Southern France remains the bastion of rosé, with numerous regional styles. Provence blends Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and occasionally Mourvèdre. The Languedoc and Southern Rhône employ similar grapes. Farther north, Loire Valley producers use Cabernet Franc in Chinon and Pinot Noir in Sancerre. Jean-Paul Brun, a top Beaujolais producer, makes a small amount of sparkling rosé from Gamay that he calls FRV100, which sounds like “effervescent” in French. The New World also produces its share of rosés. Argentina and Australia have gained recognition for theirs in recent years, and some producers in Long Island, N.Y., make fruity versions with Merlot. But California, the birthplace of white Zinfandel, seems to have a love-hate relationship with the wine. Some of the state’s wineries make rosés usually from Rhône grape varieties, which tend to be bigger, riper, fruitier and sometimes sweeter than their European brethren but only in small amounts. A few have earned a reputation for it, but the rest just sell bottles out of their tasting rooms. Many have tried marketing rosé and then discontinued it. Joseph Phelps made 3,000 cases a year of Grenache rosé, which earned critical raves, but the winery ceased production after the 1998 vintage. “it was great,” says head winemaker Craig Williams, “but it was more than the market could bear. We were ahead of our time.” Williams often drinks rosé, but sticks to French labels.

O

Champagne

tavel

For Five straight years in the early

‘90s, the owners of Nicolas Feuillatte urged chief winemaker Jean-Pierre Vincent to make a vintage rosé. But Vincent demurred; his experiment with such a cuvée in 1989 had not been encouraging and although the house already made a non-vintage rosé Champagne he envisioned could be achieved. But in 1996, Vincent’s director insisted that he make one. The decree from on high turned out to be a very good thing Feuillatte’s Brut Rosé Champpagne Cuvée Palmes d’Or has received critical and popular successthe vintage received 93 ppoints and the most recent vintage, the 2000, scored 92. Production has increased from the initial 670 cases to 2,500 cases. Vincent’s non-vintage brut is made in the traditional method blending 60 ppercent still chardonnay with 40 percent still Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The red-wine components are made via carbonic maceration, as in Beaujolais, creating a very fruity, light Champagne. “it’s perfect for every day,” says Vincent, “with light fruit and no tannins.” With the Palmes d’Or, on the other hand, he set out to make a true sparkling Pinot Noir, gaining a deeper, richer flavor by allowing the juice to sit with the skins before fermentation. Vincent sources most of the grapes from Les Ricceys, a village at the southern border of Champagne, closer to Beaune and Burgundy that to the Champagne houses in Reims. The result is a full-flavored wine, with a rich texture and nuanced dried berry flavors-almost a sparkling Volnay. Is Vincent happpy with the results? “I dreamed it; I made it,”

rosé runs in vigneron christophe

Delorme’s blood. When he and his father established Domaine de la Mordorér in 1986, their first parcel was a 12-acre Tavel vine yard Christophe’s mother had inherited in 1970. Her family has been making wine in Tavel-a small town in the Rhône, just across the border from Châteauneuf, and the only French appellation where all the wines are rosé-for almost 500 years Today, Delorme is best known for his wonderful Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but he still works out of a winery in Tavel. And he still produces three different rosés: a Tavel, a Lirac and a vin de pays. “Tavel has been well-known in Europe for centuries,”he says proudly.” “It was drunk by czars and popes.” The secret to its appeal, he adds, is that it’s bigger and richer than its counterparts from Provence, and he believes it can easily age for three years or more. Tavel’s appellation rules allow nine different grapes to be used. Delorme opts for six, primarily Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvédre. He lets the juice sit with the skins, then bleeds it off and ferments it, producing about 4,200 cases a year. Exports to the United States have been increasing by about 25 percent every year. Delorme believes Americans are discovering how food-friendly the wine is, especially with spicy or Asian cuisine. “Tavel’s Perfumes and texture match with tuna sushi perfectly,”he says. Not bad for an old family vineyard.

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Beach
Beach Living Magazine
October 2007

ultimate fall beach travel guide
the romance of hawaii austrailian steamy summer nights
Beach Living Magazine 5½” x 8¼” Travel guide magazine that focuses on beach vacation spots.

top fall beach lodges

U.S. $4.50 Canada $5.50 Display until October 27

www.beachliving.com aol keyword: beachliving

Beach Living Magazine
features
CASTLE IN THE SAND
Once a private tropical hideaway for Franco-British tycoon, Cuizmala is set to become the next hot resort on Mexico’s Virgin Coast

196
EDITOR’S NOTE CONTRIBUTORS LETTERS BEACHLIVING.COM

20 22 24 29 32

A HAWAIIAN AFFAIR
Chic, small scale, and modern, Hawaii can seduce you without really trying

204

On-line resources for the month

ASK BEACH LIVING
Beach rentals for fall foilage season; our favorite hot spots

STEAMING DOWN UNDER
Austrailia is a sublime place, populated by all kinds of people. From the city of Sydney to the outter Aboriginals it is getting seamy down under

214

BEST DEALS DESTINATIONS
beach living’s weather index

34 36

STYLISH LODGER

296

From New York’s trendy scence to San Fransico’s laid back bay approach we’ll take you around the country for the best beach lodges

AD DESIGN

a Shared JeruSalem
IsraelIs and PalestInIans two PeoPles, one Future
Coexist Poster 12” x 18” Poster promoting the need for peace between Israelis and Palestinians.

33 million Americans do not have an adequate supply of food

Bread for the World 11” x 17” Posters calling for an end to hunger in the United States of America.

Bread for the World
breadfortheworld.org

9.6 million U.S. households experience hunger

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CLEAR CHANNEL

Melissa Slater
Graphic Design

71 Montvale Ave #4 Stoneham, MA 02180 813.731.2095

May 4, 2007

Education
Bachelor of Fine Arts Concentration in Graphic Design Minor in Photography University of North Florida Jacksonville, Fl

July 2007-Present

Employment
Graphic Designer Clear Channel Communications/Outdoor Division Boston, MA Lead graphic designer responsible for the layout and design of billboards in the New England area. Works closely with account executives to achieve design solutions for the clients’ varying needs. Creates Power Point presentations and designs marketing materials for existing and new clients. Pro actively creates eye catching speculative work to expand new client base for the firm. Graphic Design/Marketing Intern Clear Channel Communications/Outdoor Division Jacksonville, Fl Responsible for layout and design of billboards in the Jacksonville region and assist in marketing materials and presentations for clients. Graphic Designer Jewish Press of Tampa & Pinellas County Largo, Fl Responsible for the layout of articles and advertisements of the Jewish Press of Tampa and Pinnellas County

January 2007-May 2007

May 2006-August 2006

February 2007 April 2006 December 2005

Exhibitions
University of North Florida Senior Show University of North Florida Student Annual Through the Lens Photography Show

Software
Adobe Indesign, Photoshop, Illustrator, Macromedia Dreamweaver, Microsoft Office

April 2005-May 2007 October 2005-Present

Memberships
UNF Osprey Design Club AIGA

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