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SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT

A course curriculum In Fashion & Apparel Engg. Matrix Clothing Private Limited

PROJECT TITLE
"HOW WE CAN IMPROVE THE CUTTING EFFICIENCY AS A CASE STUDY IN MATRIX CLOTHING PVT. LTD"

Rashi Goyal (FAE3rd year)

DECLARATION

I , Rashi Goyal hereby declare that the Internship document and project report done in Matrix Clothing Private Ltd, Gurgaon, submitted to the Department of Fashion & Apperal Engg., TIT&S (BHIWANI), as part of our academic requirements is an original workdone by as under the supervision of Mr.K.N. Chatterjee (HOD, FAE Deptt.).

Rashi Goyal

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to express my gratitude to the company Matrix Clothing Private Ltd for the great support extended in the process of my Apparel study. I would like to thank the management of Matrix Clothing Private Ltd for their kind and willing support. I heartfelt gratitude to Mr. Rajeev Dhawan (COO of Matrix Clothing) for granting me permission to carry out my study and sparing his valuable time to interact with me . My gratitude to Ms. Simmy Rajpal (H.R. department) for allowing me to pursue my internship with the esteemed organization. i want to thank to Mr. Sunil Kara (vice-president) for all the support extended, guidance, motivation and for answering efficiently all my queries . I m so to thankful of our industry mentor Mr. Haricharan Purti (Sr.Manager in Quality Assurance) for all the support extended, guidance, motivation and for answering efficiently all my queries .

I want also thank to Mr. Rajan (Production Planner). All the Head of Departments for their patience with us. Mr. Vinod Singh and Mr. Nikhil Singh( Production Manager) for briefing me on the overview of the process detailing, Mr. Amulya Mohanti for assistance in the Quality section , Mr. Dileep and Mr. Kishan Pathak for explaining the Cutting and Spreading procedure, Mr. Mohammad Wahid for assistance in CAD department. Mr. L.K.Chowdhary for giving the information about the personnel, Mr. C.L.Sharma for sharing his knowledge regarding the various

finishes of the garments, Mr. Jabar Singh and Mr. Mustak for explaining all the technicalities of the garments. Mr Sajeesh and Mr. Chandrapal who have given me the detailed information about the trim store and fabric store respectively. Mr. Imran Khan and Mr. Navneet Sharma for briefing me about the IE department.

COMPANY PROFILE
MATRIX CLOTHING PVT. LTD. THE MISSION Our mission is to profitably manufacture and supply clothing of required quality standards to our customers, on time, every time.
Company : Matrix Clothing Private Limited, Gurgaon (Haryana) Address Mohammadpur Gurgaon- 122001, Haryana, INDIA Capacity Buyers : : 5000 garments per day Coldwater Creek Next Per Una : Matrix Clothing Private Limited Khandsa Road, Village

Marks & Spencer Debenhams Timberland Prana A&F Unit Type Products Total Factory Area Production Lines Total Workforce : : : : : 100 % export Womens and Kids wear 202500 sq feet 12 900

BACKGROUND
Their business was established in June 1980 with the clear vision of manufacturing quality apparel for the international market. Tex Corp, an ISO 9001:2000 certified manufacturer of coil, plastic molded and metallic zippers, established in 1987, is also part of the Matrix Clothing group of companies. Total group sales turn over for fiscal year 2008-2009 was over INR 180Crores (US$ 38 million). Of this, apparel accounted for INR 135Crores (US$ 28.25 million). The company MATRIX CLOTHING PVT. LTD is divided into 2 major units: 1. Mens division knitwear and Woven They manufacture high quality polo shirts, rugby shirts, fleece sweats, jackets, round neck tees & a collection of other products. The knitted polo /golf shirt is their forte They work with a wide variety of fabrics, finishes and special yarns. Some of the worlds top golf apparel brands source their premium golf shirts from Matrix. They constantly innovate in terms of fabric, yarn types, finishes and design, while keeping constant their unflinching focus towards quality and buyer delight. Water-resistant fabrics, absorbent fabrics, mercerized fabrics, organic cotton, space dyed yarn, extrasoft finishes, wrinkle-resistant fabrics-these are just some of the products they offer.2

The combination of their expertise in knitted fabrics, design team, knitting and embroidery machines and their talented associates enables them to design and manufacture premium quality high fashion embellished garments for niche buyers such as CK and Esprit. Major knitwear clients are as follows: a. Cutter & Buck b. Reebok c. Jos A Bank d. Philip Van e. Heusen f. Timberland g. Esprit h. Macys (T.E Golf) i. Woolworth, South Africa j. Debenhamss, UK The prime product of the mens woven division is the boxer range for men and boys and sometimes for ladies. They have an entire production floor dedicated to production of boxers. They are the sole producer and supplier of boxers for the brand Abercrombie and Fitch in the world. Major buyers are: a. Abercrombie and Fitch b. Belk c. Gilly hicks d. Jennifer noore e. Hollister

DESIGNATIONS Company Director Vice President Personnel Manager Cutting Manager Production Manager Quality Manager Industrial Engineer M/C maintenance Trim store Head Technician Fabric Store Head Mr. Rajeev Dhawan Mr. Sunil Karra Mr. L.K.Chowdhary Mr. Dileep Mr. Vinod and Mr. Nikhil Mr. Haricharan Purti Mr. Imran and Mr. Navneet Mr. Satpal Mr. Sajeesh Mr. Jabar Singh Mr. Chandrapal Singh

PROCESS FLOW

MERCHANDISING
The merchandising department acts as a link between the buyer and the company and ensures the timely delivery of the order. The major functions of the merchandiser are:

1. Order booking 2. Costing 3. Development of samples 4. Communication with the planning department 5. Communication with sourcing team 6. Following operations

Process Flow
Receive Tech Packs

Costing

Organize Fabric, Trims

Prepare Patterns

Prepare Samples

Preparation of Time and Action Plan:-

Receive approval from buyer, send for bulk

O.C. Punching

Initial MRL (Material Requisition)

Final MRL Processing

2nd Level of Cost Sheet

Lap Dip Sent

Lap Dip Approval

Fob Submission

Fob Approval

Fabric In-house

Trim Fabric Approval

Trim Fabric In-house

Fit Sample Submission

Fit Sample Approval

Mama Fit Submission

Mama Fit Approval

Sewing Trim In House

Fabric Test Result

Certified Send

Certified Approval

GPT Exit

Size Set Approval

File Hand Over

PCD

Packing Trim In-house

Bulk Cutting

Sewing

Finishing

Washing/Packaging

Final Inspection

Shipment RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT Job type Manager Tailors for pilot run Pattern Master Quality Inspector Helper Person for placement No. 1 9 1 1 1 1

In R & D department analysis of new design sample is done to make the operations easy for bulk production. Minor changes can

be done in pattern. Types of sample prepared in R & D department: Pilot run sample Size set T.O.P. sample Buyers have specific terms for the sample Buyers name Marks & spencers Next Coldwater creek Per Una Sample names Rack sample Rack sample Gold seal sample T.O.P.

receives file from merchandiser with tech pack, CAD copy, P.O.s , Fabric Reports, P.P.Sample, Approved trims, base pattern, approved Embroidery head

Pilot Run / size set

PASS

Pilot run selected

FAIL

Re- pilot with pattern amendment


Bulk Pre Production Meeting

Different buyers work in different style. Few buyers such as Prana and Per Una ask for size set along with Pilot run from the manufacturer. Most of the buyer prefers to give their contracts to Buying House which works as a mediator to communicate between the manufacturer and buyer.
buyers Buying house Garmen t factory

Working of NEXT Step 1 R & D department receives the file by merchandiser after sample approval. This file contains the tech pack, white seal fit report

(dummy fit), trims report, patterns and technological comments i.e. Buying House comments and Buyers comments. Step 2 Buying house confirms the pattern for grading with buyer. Buyer approves the graded patterns and also comments on the pattern if any alteration needs to be done. Step 3 Black Seal sample is prepared. Size set is made in the jumping size and sent for approval. Buyer may ask for resubmission of the size set and can also comment on grading measurement. Step 4 Pilot run is done in every size. Factory Quality assurance check and inspect the pilot sample. If acceptable it will be sent to buyer else go for re-pilot and pattern amendment.

Comments on Pilot + white seal report + black seal report = Bulk Production

Types of files maintained in R & D department Internal shrinkage file Quality report file

1. Pre production specification 2. Sample evaluation sheet 3. Graded measurements 4. Size specification- approved 5. Production specification 6. Size chart 7. Measurement check sheet 8. Inspection report Buyers files 1. Tech pack 2. CAD 3. P.O.s 4. Buyer correspondence 5. Trims 6. Fabric reports 7. Sampling 8. P.P. Meeting comment 9. Order summary sheet 10. Approved Embroidery header

SAMPLING
BASIC WORK FLOW; In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the

merchandising and production department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyers specification. Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head. Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and techniques. The

samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used. It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack. TYPES OF SAMPLES Proto Sample: Fit Sample: Pre Production Sample: Size Set: Pilot Run Sample: TOP Sample: Shipment Sample: Sales Sample:

Proto Sample The first sample made after order confirmation is Proto sample. This sample is made of the closest matching fabric and trims and is for the purpose of identifying the overall look of the style and to obtain a clear understanding of the style. The garment is produced in the base size (M) as asked by the merchandiser. 2-3 pieces are made for proto sample one for SMS (color wise) and other for Presentation sample. Fit Sample/ White Seal Sample Comments from the merchandiser are received regarding the shape, size and fullness. Fit sample is based on the measurement list. Only base size given by the buyer is made and fit is checked on mannequins. This sample is also done on the substitute fabric as proto sample. The main factors that are considered are: a. Perfect style b. Quality c. Measurement. Different buyers have different fits, based on which samples are requested in each fit. First Iteration: Similar to the first fit sample, new fit sample of

the basic size is made with few changes according to the comments and new techpack sent back by the buyer. Again, third or may be fourth fit sample can be made as required. Second Iteration: Similar like second fit sample new fit sample of the basic size is made with few changes according to the comments and new techpack sent back by the buyer. If the sample is approved the buyer confirms the order to merchandiser and the specifications of the fabric and trims along with the techpack are sent back to the merchant. In another case merchant sends up to ten swatches of fabric for the approval for the bulk production. Finally, the approval of the fabric and trims is decided by the mutual understanding between the buyer and merchandiser. Size set/ Black seal sample: In this stage of sampling, actual fabric is used to stitch the garment. If the fit sample is approved, buyer size set is produced in all colors and in jumping sizes. o Original trims and accessories are used. o Four sets each of size are made. o Buyer can comment on grading measurement. o If not approved then again size set is made. Sealer Sample/Pre-Production Sample

Sealer sample is sent back by the buyer after the approval of size set sample. Seal is attached on this sample and it is maintained in the production department, finishing department and QA for the requirements and the quality parameters. Once the sealer sample is received industry is not allowed to make any changes in the garment and this sample should only be followed as the standard for production. Pilot run: 20 pieces are cut in each colour and each size. Factory QA checks and inspects the garments and if it is approved by the factory QA then it is sent to the buyer. If there is any problem in the pattern it is altered either in R & D or in CAD department. 5-5 pieces on each size and each colour are offered to the buyers QIs. TOP sample: The buyer Q.A. picks up one size or all set of sizes from the first bulk production. It is considered to be the perfect sample with respect to all sizes and all colors. In the base size the sample produced should be double. One set to the buyer One set to buying office One set as a counter with the merchant, IF NOT APPROVED, then again TOP sample

is produced. IF APPROVED, then bulk production of the garment starts. Shipment Sample: Before the shipment buying house Q.A. picks up the carton randomly and check for the quality. Shipment can only happen after of the approval over shipment sample. Salesman Sample These samples are made for the purpose of testing customer reaction to the various styles in various colors. In many cases these samples are placed in different retail stores and based on the average reaction, the buyer places orders for bulk production. At the factory the salesman samples are referred to as mini bulk. The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable). Ref no.

Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity Style no/ Size Store

Machine details
There were a total of 36 machines in the sampling department. Type of the sewing machines 4 thread overlock machine 5 thread overlock machine Flatlock machine Flatlock machine for binding Single needle chainstitch machine Bartack machine Button hole machine Button sew machine Single needle lockstitch machine 5=treadle machine for embroidery Total number 3 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 24

Generally sewer starting with shoulder attachment sleeve attachment---side joining (front &back)bottom Heming etc o Shoulder part, front and back, front youg are attached by: over-lock stitching machine o Collar is attached by single needle stitching machine o Hemming:-flat lock

Process Flow Sampling Department (Ladys Wear) From Buyer Seasonal based color pallet Theme board Mood board Inspiration board

Designing Team Prepare mock up and do the design work

Product Development Team Develop season based sample Check the feasibility for production Do the 1st costing

Adoption through Buyer 2nd stage of costing

Final Pos (Purchase Order)

Sample Flow Chart Proto Sample

Fit Sample

P.P Sample (Pre-Production Sample), Certified Sample

T.O.P (Top of Production) Proto Sample:o 1st sample from company to buyer o More focus on the look of the garment o Should be very much attractive, stylish as per the tech. pack given by buyer Fit Sample:o Samples need a correct measurement according to the required spec sheet. o Fabric quality should be original in close available color. o More focus on the construction, check on dummy for fitness. Pre-Production/Certified Sample:o Need to submit this to buyer prior to production to go ahead from buyer for bulk production. o The sample will represent the bulk production. o Having original fabric quality, color and all the trims to be attached in bulk. Top of Production

o Sample represents the best garment from production. o Buyer going to check all the measurements on this garment.

CWC SAMPLING FLOW CHART

Proto Sample-3 Pcs, Small Size Fit-1x-3pcs

Photo Shoot (All Color-Xs) Certified -1x-3pcs

Fit- Small -3pcs

FPT:-One Meter from FOB Nested Pattern Certified Sample-Small Size-4pcs

GPT(S-3pcs) Size Set

Web Sample:-2pcs (Xs), Mock:-4(S), Web Hanger:-4

Nested Pattern

Size Set MISSY:-XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL MAMA: - 1X, 2X, 3X

Sequential Action to Prepare a Garment in Sampling Department

Once Getting the Tech. Pack

Fabric Arrange From Store (thread, bead, sequences etc) (Check GSM, Hand Feel, Color)

Arrangement of Trims

Pattern Making

Washing Prepare Khaka

If Embellishment

Fabric+Trims+SpecificationSheet+Pattern+Khaka (Make a Program for Cutting)

Cutting

Sewing

Quality Checking

Labeling

Finishing

Packaging

PATTERN MAKING(CAD)

PROCESS: Buyer sends the tech pack

Pattern is developed in CAD

Developed patterns are sent to the buyer with a sample

Buyer approves it or send back with comments or changes in pattern

Alteration in pattern

Send for reapproval Some buyer asks for all the samples with patterns. OPTITEX 10, 11 are used. Machines Computer Plotter Digitizer Pattern making table No. 4 2 1 1

CAD average: - is used to calculate minimum possible fabric consumption in the garment

Production File:Production file is the file in which having Tech. pack sheet Cad copy Buyers p .o Approved fabric lots Approved fabric bulk card Approved trim card Pre- production sample Base pattern Handed over to production department by the merchandiser before starting the bulk production. Responsibilities

1. Making patterns for samples 2. For sample markers, production markers 3. For checking 4. For templates to be used in production. 5. Pattern grading FABRIC STORE Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively. Fabric is received from the supplier according to the purchase order by the receiving person. The fabric is then kept in the quarantine area. The roll are issued for cutting of bits for shrinkage test and for preparing shade band. After this the fabric rolls are inspected according to 4 point grading system. The rolls are inspected on the QA workstation I.e. checking table. The passed fabric rolls are then kept on pallets and then kept on racks according to the buyer and style no. Fabric is issued at the issuing areas to the respective factories according to the work order. Knitted fabric is checked for 20% of the total lot and if there is

some problem then the whole lot is checked. Woven fabric if white then only 20% of the lot is checked and if the fabric is printed and base is colored then full lot is checked. If the woven fabric is yarn dyed or printed it is checked for peaching. FABRIC ISSUE For issuing the fabric to different units of the company unit wise issuer is allotted in the store and the fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan which are separate for each unit. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no, color, buyers name, and quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit. FABRIC STORAGE Fabric is stored in huge racks. Individual racks contains the fabric for sampling and FOB( first of bulk). Boxers FOB is kept down the table. Old stocks are also kept on the uppermost shelf near the wall. Order cancelled fabric is also occupying the space in the fabric store. Most of the racks were occupied by the production fabric. Fabrics are kept as per style number and buyers. FILES/ REPORTS/ REGISTERS Files and reports which are maintained in the fabric store are:

1. Daily fabric receiving register Date: number: Style buyer combo Fabric Lot type qty rolls Mill Ch/ location page

name bill

2. Challan for fabric issuing to cutting department along with inspection details in written form. 3. Swatch file

Fabric details Buyer 20 s Supima CWC

Mill STL Global

cotton Chiburi Napapijri Auro tex Poly georgette, Next Sarvoday tex check Single side ANF Boys ALC Shankar Cloth Ex SAF Impex SAF Impex Bhooni Textile

peached 60s cambric, Per Una viscose chiffon, polynet Slub print, 30 M & S Lilac pink, 60

cambric STL Global 60s cambric leaf Debenham Bombay Rayon print 60s cambric 4. Mill Tag Date: Party: Count: Quality: Lot No. Shade: Width: Sign: 5. Label on Fabric Style # Combo Party Roll No. Buyer P.O. date:
Yarn lot 1. 5 stains 2. 5 holes 3. Cut 4. others

s Gillyhicks Bombay Rayon

Lot No. Required size Actual size GSM quantity 6. Approval File for woven and knits 7. Checking/ Inspection File 8. Shrinkage File 9. Swatch file 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. Process Flow: When the fabric truck come at the gate of the fabric store, 1 guard and 1 of the staff member check and match the quantity of the Inspection Report File for buying House QA Fabric Audit Report Rejection detail Report Purchase Order Process Order Waiting for Approval Report

fabric ordered.

If the quantity of the fabric is as per requirement, it is unloaded from the truck and kept in the store.

Gram per square metre (GSM) of the fabric is checked in the fabric store.

If the GSM of the fabric is less, the fabric goes for CPL (cut per laundry)

After that quality, print, colour and lot is matched to the approved sample.

Further inspection

goes to buying house for approval

Approved supplier

Back

to

Fabric is inspected by 4 point system at QA workstation. Shade matching and end to end selvedge test is also done and report is prepared.

Buying house QA inspects the fabric and they make the reports along with the comments. Also mention the changes to be made if any.

Fabric is issued to the cutting department

PROJECT
AT MATRIX CLOTHING Pvt. Ltd. PROJECT TITLE
"HOW WE CAN IMPROVE THE CUTTING EFFICIENCY AS A CASE STUDY IN MATRIX CLOTHING PVT. LTD"

COMPILED AND SUBMITTED BY


RASHI GOYAL ( FAE 3rd year)

CUTTING DEPARTMENT SOP (Standard Operating Procedure)

Check the lot nos. of the received fabric. Layer the lot wise fabric for cutting to be cut in desired ratio. Check layer height. Select approval pattern for cutting and confirm style no., width etc. Lay the pattern and cut the layer. Inspect the top, middle, and bottom Panels for the cutting accuracy. Number the panels with lot no., size, and panel no. Blocks are sent for embroidery/ printing. Recutting of the embroidered panels. Bundle the numbered panels. Issue to the production lines. FUNCTIONS SPREADING/LAYING Spreading or laying is done completely manually in the unit. The laying workers receive the laying details which contains all the details required for laying the fabric. The workers go and get the fabric from the storage racks. If the fabric is in folded form, then the fabric is kept under the laying table on a sheet to prevent the fabric from getting dirty. Knitted fabrics are generally kept for 24

hours for relaxation. If the fabric is in roll form then either it is unwound from the roll form or otherwise the roll is placed using a rod and the rod stand on one end of the table. Normally there are two to three people involved in the process of spreading. One person stands on the end of the table and pulls the fabric and releases it for spreading. The other two persons carry the fabric from one end to the other. The spreading process goes as a cycle. The cycle is mentioned below: Worker standing on the end of the table pulls the fabric to the other end of the table using both hands and releases it for spreading. Two workers carry the end of the fabric till the other end of the lay. The end of the fabric is matched with the end of the lay. Then they put the weight at the end of the fabric lay to hold the fabric. After that they match the selvedge of the fabric with the edge of the lay. After they reach the other end they cut the fabric from both the sides with the help of scissors. After that, again both the workers move towards the other end with the edge of the fabric and the whole cycle is repeated again

and again till required number of layers is not laid. When a thaan or roll of fabric finishes in between laying, the end bit is cut, measured, recorded and kept separately. Big end pieces are used later in single piece or two piece marker. The smaller end bits are used to replace defective pieces. MARKING & CUTTING After the marking is done the CAD marker is spread over the fabric which is received from the main building. The CAD marker has all the information regarding the pattern such as the size of the pattern, style number, notches and the length of the marker, width of the marker, efficiency, number of patterns in the marker is also mentioned on the CAD marker. The CAD paper is torn at various places and then they stick the thick cello tape over those torn places so that the CAD marker does not move from its place. The lay is stuck to the table from both the ends with the help of the thick cello tape. The lay number is written on each pattern by one of the layer man. Sometimes the marker is made manually by keeping the patterns on the lay and weights are kept. The patterns are received from the CAD department.

After all the adjustments are made and the lay is ready for cutting,

cutters start cutting the lay using straight knife. Block cutting is done for those panels which is to be sent for embroidery and printing. Most of the notches are made using the straight knife only. Smaller patterns of the marker are cut on the band knife. All the smaller patterns are set at one side of the marker, they are cut separately as a block and if the fusing is required it goes for fusing and then again if its big enough to handle, it is cut into smaller blocks at the cutting table using straight knife and then it is transported to the band knife by the help of a trolley table. The power for cutting machine (band knife) is received from the overhead power line.

TICKETING The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bundles of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bundle-to-bundle variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket

contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end. After all the pieces are cut, they are taken for ticketing by trolley. A normal hand held ticketing machine is used for this purpose. A sticker contains the size and a continuously increasing number. The number on the ticket can be 3 4 digits. Different colored tickets are used like white, blue, yellow, light green and pink. The numbering starts from 1 for every color in one style. Lot Making Standard: Sticker color White Cream Yellow Violet Grey Pink Blue Light green Red Lot No. A/J B/K C/L D/M E/N F/O G/P H/Q I/R

There were two tables for shorting and ticketing. One table was for those panels which directly go to the production department after

ticketing and bundling and the other table was for those panels which are sent for job work such as embellishment, pin tucks and printing or washing. These panels are labeled using a golden ink so that it does not wash off. Since the stickers which are stuck on the panels may get detached to the panels while handling it. ASSORTING AND BUNDLING The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using waste fabric ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount required by the production department when asked for. Each bundle is folded into a roll and tied with waste fabric. Each bundle is attached with a small card containing information about that bundle: Layer Style Size Order number Color and Shade Plies

Bundle CUT PANEL CHECKING The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number as the rejected ones USING THE END BITS OF SAME COLOR AND SHADE. Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment finishing or washing. All the cut pieces are checked one by one for defects. All the defective pieces are taken out and recorded by the workers. Workers checking the cut parts have been told of what kind of defects to look for and of how much intensity. Defective pieces are kept separately and can be used for cutting smaller pieces if

required. PART CHANGE TABLE Here the defective panels are replaced using the end bits of same color and lot by the operator. Then it is passed to the other next table where serial wise matching is done. EMBROIDERY/ PRINTING The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for embroidery or printing as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery/ printing and follow up these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent for embroidery/ printing, which are re-cut after receiving back. Fusing Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the components to be fused or the whole block is fused and then the panels are cut either on band knife or straight knife The components along with the fusing material is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other

end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re bundled.

NUMBER OF MACHINES: Band Knife 01 Straight Knife 05 Ticketing Machines 05 Fusing Machines 02 Problems with Recommendation by Self-Understanding the Procedures 1. Problem uneven cutting of layers.

Solution The laying up process will dictate the cutting room output. During the cutting of layers by hand lead to unevenness cutting of layers, to get an appropriates cutting of layers End Cutter tool is very

much essential to save the fabric and cutting can be done accurately . End Cutters these tools are inexpensive and help greatly to save fabric, you will soon recover the cost of buying them.

End Cutter

2. ProblemWastage in form of End bit. Solution End bit should be monitor properly An end bit is a piece of cloth that is longer than the length required to lay up one complete size. End bits of course will come in all different lengths, and unless you splice there will be pieces of fabric which are shorter than the length of the lay being layed, these pieces should be treated with great respect. They should be measured, have a sticky label attached with the length on it, and

then folded and put into piles of similar length to be used on smaller markers later. I do not believe in keeping fabric for panel replacement unless there are important reasons to do so, so I want to produce garments from all of the available fabric. The off cuts (pieces too small to make a garment) will be used to replace smaller parts of the garments that need replacement. 3. Problem: - wrong placement of layers (End loss) Solution:End loss losses are not well managed and were seen to be as much as 5-7 cms in some cases Automatic spreading machine should be used for proper placement of each layer, without crease formation, smoothness in each layer

4. Not using the best software for pattern making. Solution

Marker planning could be improved in the factories and as orders get smaller this becomes a vitally important feature in fabric utilization and cutting room productivity. The average marker efficiency was seen to be around 85%. TUKATEK CAD software will be more useful as compare to optitex in term of Pattern grading, Pattern design functions-measurement capabilities, Maker making, Pattern design functions-darts, pleats, trace, cut, combine, shrink, stretch, flip, rotate patterns.

5 .Problem:-wastage of fabric during cad cutting Solution Should use Remnants marker

The remnant handling is poor. The measurement and management was rated at a very low level of 36%. The remnants were not measured properly. The storage of remnants was also not Satisfactory. The remnants were simply kept in heaps under tables. Although remnant markers are made remnants are not fully utilized. 6. problem----- mix up during numbering process Solution Numbering The numbering system and number clarity is good. However, the position of numbering can be improved. A poorly positioned number sticker causes problems for the sewing operator since they have to remove and replace the sticker before completing the operation, wasting sewing time.

____________________________________ _____________________

Findings and learning This internship was a great learning experience for me. I came here to check out the practical aspect of our theoretical studies. I have seen various industries during our industrial visit but getting in depth knowledge was very difficult for us. So this industrial internship was a great opportunity for us to learn the basics of this industry. These eight weeks were very fruitful for us I have noticed lot of things during eight weeks. Skillful workers are big asset for company. Co-ordination is very important among departments. Proper flow up is very much necessary in sampling

department. Planning department should be more active.

REASONS FOR REDUCED EFFICIENCY

1. STORAGE

PROBLEMS
A lot of time is wasted in looking for specific patterns kept in the racks, when required. The end bits are randomly stored under the table. Space problems (for tables & racks)

SOLUTIONS
The storage problem in the cutting room can be solved up to certain extent by using empty carton boxes (from trims & accessories store). By using medium-sized cartons, we can label them also for easy finding and can also prevent them from dust. Make-shift divisions in the sections of the racks can be made for more organized storing of bundles.

2. STICKERING
PROBLEMS

Lots of WIP for Stickering. Less workers are appointed for Stickering. Position of the stickers on the cut panels are not well defined. Many times the stickers are stitched along with the seams.

SOLUTIONS
More number of workers should be assigned for Stickering to reduce WIP. Proper planning should be done regarding the color and position of stickers on the cut panels as it reduces the efficiency of sewing department.

3. WAITING FOR APPROVAL / SHRINKAGE REPORT

PROBLEMS
The cutting department wastes its time waiting for approval of the fabric or for the shrinkage report. This is due to the problem of mock making.

MOCK MAKING PROCESS

It leads to delay in fabric delivery from store to cutting department, hence delay in proceeding with cutting. Due to late beginning, the cutting efficiency is reduced as the process is hurried and overtime is also done to meet the cutting requirements.

SOLUTIONS
This problem can be solved by assigning a worker and an overlock machine at the fabric store, for mock making. This would reduce the problem of transferring the fabric to cutting room and getting a mock made, then sending the mock to testing lab. The waiting time for cutting room will be reduced considerably. The worker can also be used for other purposes after the mock has been made.

4. MANUAL WRAPER MAKING

PROBLEMS
A wraper is very important as it tells the sewing operator about the bundle. So it should be flawless. Manual wraper making is more prone to errors as humans make a lot of errors. At times, the wrapers cannot be read clearly. A worker is appointed just to make wrapers for bundling.

SOLUTIONS
Computerized wrapers should replace the manual wrapers. This will make the work faster, easier and faultless. The wrapers will be clearly read as well. The worker used to make wrapers can be used for other purposes.

5. EQUIPMENTS

PROBLEMS
The cutting room is equipped with several cutting equipments. Yet there is a requirement of other equipments which aid in cutting. The scissors of the worker is used as a weight to keep the lay intact. After every ply, the ply is cut using scissors assigned to the operators. One operator can not reach up to the other end, hence the second operator has to help.

TIME STUDY

PLY NUMBER 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th* 6th

TIME TAKEN TO CUT (sec) 6.7 6.2 6.9 7.1 8.7 6.6

SOLUTIONS
End cutters can be used to cut the end ply. This reduces the time and confusion created during the cutting of the end ply. Extra weights may be provided to keep the lay intact and in place.

6. WASTE BINS

PROBLEMS
During the cutting process, each cutter does not have his own bin to dispose the end bits. The waste bins are shared between the cutting of 2 lays. This increases the operator movement and hence the time. Also this leads to unnecessary interaction between the operators.

SOLUTIONS
Knit bags can be nailed to the cutting table side to save space and collect garbage. These bags could be emptied whenever required. Empty cartons from trims and accessory stores can be provided to each cutter before the inception of the process.

7. BUNDLING
PROBLEMS
Tyeing of bundles is not a well defined process.The bundles are tied with end bits of the previously laid lay.The operator tying the bundles wastes time in knotting the bundle and the next operator again wastes time in opening the knots.

SOLUTIONS
* * * A special band to tie the bundle should be designed. We have proposed a band for the same purpose. This band is designed to reduce the operation time, remove knotting time and eliminate confusion. Base material for the band proposed is elastic. This is taken as, elastic has variable capacity due to stretch-ability. At the end we can either stitch metal hooks. The elastic can be obtained from the waste of the boxer division of Matrix Clothing. On the edge, a card can be tagged on which the wraper can be stapled. The entire combination of the elastic and the card can be used for various styles, for a long time.

* * *

8. LAYOUT AND TRANSPORTATION


PROBLEMS
The floor layout is poor and work flow is unsystematic. Fusing machines and band knife machines are placed in corners. Storage of work is improper and under tables are untidy.

SOLUTIONS

* For the storage of fabric, there should be a systematic manner used in the storage racks and label them. * Work transportation trolleys and other work aids should be introduced. * Masks were not worn by any operator in the cutting department.

9. SPREADING

PROBLEMS
Uneducated workers are used.

SOLUTIONS
Workers should be properly skilled.

CONCLUSION
During our internship we were able to inculcate wide range of knowledge about the existing scenario of the garment industry, understanding the functioning and the role played by various departments in meeting the delivery schedules.

The various departments that exists in the company from administration to the shipment were thoroughly studied with the good understanding.The conclusion were drawn and suggestions were presented to the management, who humbly accepted them.

To conclude, this internship proved to be a great learning in many aspects as it gave us an opportunity to experiment and utilize the inputs imparted by the institute.

THANK YOU!!!!!!