CUSTOM WIRING PANEL FOR MGB V8 CONVERSIONS

By Dan Masters DMPublications@aol.com

A dmp PUBLICATION
DM Publishing, PO Box 6430, Maryville, TN 37802-6430

Copyright 2002, Dan Masters ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

No part of this booklet may be reproduced in any form, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in reviews, without permission in writing from the author or publisher.

NOTE: The material in this manual is provided as an aid to MGB owners who want to do their own work in making an upgraded wiring system. The author makes no claims for its accuracy or suitability for use, although every effort was made to make it as correct as possible. The material in this instruction manual should be used with discretion, and is to be used at the readers risk. This information should be considered general rather than specific to any particular vehicle, and no warranties exist, either expressed or implied. The material in this manual is to be used only by those with the requisite knowledge and experience to properly evaluate the material for suitability, and to properly implement the material. The author is not responsible for mechanical or electrical damage or personal injury directly or indirectly resulting from material in this document.

CUSTOM WIRING PANEL

Sticking a high-powered V8 in your poor little B? Lots of horsepower? To go along with all that extra power, have you added a GM high output alternator, a set of driving lights that will melt trees, and a super stereo system to keep you company? Is your poor wiring now leaking smoke everywhere? Its time now for some electrical updates as well. At the least, youll need to make some modifications to the wiring to accommodate the new electrical requirements. At worst, your wiring looks like a bowl of three day old spaghetti after the mice have been in it. How much fun can you have with your increased horsepower if the cars electrical system wont let you use it? To keep the juice flowing as it should, you have a few options: Patch what you have, replace the wiring harness with a new one and modify it for your application, or buy one of the many aftermarket wiring kits now available from various street rod vendors. Unless the original wiring is in pretty good shape, patching it will be a never ending task - patch this end today, that end tomorrow, etc. Buying a new harness will a bit pricey, and you will still have undersized and under-fused wiring. Most of the aftermarket wiring systems are, unfortunately, designed for street rods, and are overkill, having many circuits that are not needed for the typical British car. In this article, I propose a new alternative - a home-built wiring system, specifically designed for YOUR car! Whats new in this article is not that the wiring is designed for your specific car, but that YOU can do it yourself. The heart of the wiring system, the POWER BLOCK (fuse/relay/flasher pane)l, is quite generic, but with the information in this article, even the electrically challenged should be able to custom tailor the overall wiring to a specific application.

On pages 4 & 5, I have shown a wiring diagram that represents how I would wire a 197MGBGT. The shaded area in the center of the diagram is the generic portion of the wiring, or what I call the Power block. By examining how the power block connects to the rest of the wiring in this diagram, it should be pretty easy to see how the connections would be made for different model or make of automobile.

Power Block as installed in a TR3. In this car, the best location for the block was under the battery box, behind the dash, but a suitable location can be found in any car. CAVEAT: This article assumes a minimum amount of familiarity with electrical circuits and construction techniques. If you have any doubt about your ability, it is strongly recommended that you enlist the aid of a friend with the requisite experience. CIRCUIT DESCRIPTIONS: For the most part, the individual circuits are straight forward, but some of them need further explanation. Fuel pump circuit: This circuit is to be used only if you opt to replace the mechanical pump with an electrical pump. The relay for the fuel pump is operated whenever the ignition key is on, but it has a couple of safety features. The relay will operate only if both the inertia switch and the cutoff switch are closed. The inertia switch will open whenever the car is subjected to a hard jolt, such as in an accident, preventing fuel spillage if a fuel line should be ruptured. The cutoff switch (optional) provides for a small bit of theft protection. This switch should be hidden from view, but easily accessible. If this switch is open, the pump will not operate, and the engine will die in a very short distance when the fuel in the float chambers is exhausted, leaving the thief stranded in the middle of the street. To prevent embarrassment to yourself if you should forget to turn the switch back on before starting your car, the normally closed contact of the relay sends power to the warning buzzer. Additionally, if the inertia switch should actuate from a hitting a pothole or such, the buzzer will also sound, reminding you to reset the switch. If you prefer, you may omit the fuel pump relay and just wire the pump directly to fuse G3, using a 28 strand green wire. You can still wire the cutoff switch and the inertia switch if you 1

Completed Power Block, ready for installation. The wiring is coiled up, waiting to be routed as appropriate for your car. Naturally, in a generic article the size of this one, every possible configuration/preference cant be addressed, but if you will write to me with your requests, Ill try to address the most popular requests in a future revision. For example, if enough people request information on retaining the existing hazard switch instead of the switch I have proposed, I will provide a circuit for that. Nevertheless, with the information supplied herein, you should be able to create a custom wiring system that will satisfy even the most finicky owner.

wish, wiring them in series with the fuel pump, but you will lose the warning buzzer function. Eliminating the relay frees up one relay space, which can then be used for the optional driving light circuit, or for the overdrive circuit, if you are using a type A overdrive in an otherwise stock MG. Driving lights (optional): Operating the driving light switch applies ground to the relay coil, which receives power from the high beam position of the headlight dimmer switch only if the high beams are on. Wired this way, the driving lights are on only if the switch is on AND the high beams are on. When you switch to the low beams, as when meeting a car, the driving lights automatically go out as well. Headlight fuses: If youll notice, there are none! I am STRONGLY opposed to the use of fuses in the headlight circuit. Having the headlights go out while doing some spirited driving on winding back road on a moonless night because a wire momentarily bounced into contact with ground can be fatal! Hazard switch: Do yourself a favor and discard the stock hazard switch. The majority of turn signal problems are due to faulty hazard switches. Replace it with a DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch from Radio Shack or similar, and wire it as shown on the typical diagram. Just be sure NOT to get one with a center off position, as neither the turn signals nor the hazard flasher will work with the switch in the off position. Cooling fan: I have provided two options for this circuit. If you prefer that the fan run only when the ignition key is on, wire terminal 85 of the relay, using 14 strand green wire, to the B terminal of the turn signal flasher. If you want the fan to run whenever the thermostat calls for it, ignition key on or off, wire terminal 85, using a 14 strand purple wire, to terminal B of the hazard flasher. Overdrive circuits: The wiring diagram included with this article has provided for a J type overdrive unit, just in case anyone wants to use this panel in a stock MG. If you are using a V8 and a 5-speed, you can just eliminate the wiring for the OD unit. If you are wiring up an earlier MG with an A type OD, you will need to add a relay. making a total of seven. If you add a relay, the panel will have to be lengthened by 1 7/32 to accommodate it. On page 8, I have shown just the pertinent portions of the wiring that will have to be modified for the relay. Power relay: The sole purpose of this relay is to take the load off the ignition switch. Using the relay, however, gives an opportunity to add a modest theft protection as well. By wiring the relay coil ground connection through a simple ON-OFF switch, the ignition circuit can be rendered inoperable by opening the cutout switch. This cutout switch is redundant if you opt to use the fuel pump relay cutout switch, but if you retain the stock mechanical pump and dont use the relay, the power relay cutout switch will serve in its stead. One important consideration to be aware of with this circuit: it is imperative that you DO NOT connect the alternator warning light lead to the relay terminal 85. If you connect the warning light lead to terminal 85 the engine will continue to run even when you turn the ignition key off. Current from the alternator through the warning lamp is enough to keep the power relay energized. WIRING CONNECTIONS: Wires leaving/entering the power block are to be connected as 2

described in the functional descriptions below: Note: the first letter(s) below indicate the wire color code, and the following numeral indicates the wire size in accordance with the British wire standards. Unlike American wire which is sized by gauge, British wiring is sized by the number of 0.30mm strands contained within the wire. Color codes: N Brown U Blue R Red P Purple LG W Y S Light Green White Yellow Slate G B K O Green Black Pink Orange

Wire size: 9 =9 strands - rated to carry 5.75 amps 14 =14 strands - rated to carry 8.00 amps 28 =28 strands - rated to carry 17.50 amps 44 =44 strands - rated to carry 25.5 amps 65 =65 strands - rated to carry 35.00 amps 84 =84 strands - rated to carry 42.00 amps 120 =120 strands - rated to carry 60.00 amps B-9: Ground connection. BG-9: Connects to the thermostat/switch for the cooling fan, and is grounded to operate the fan relay. BW-9: Ground for the power relay. If you wish to use the anttheft provision, run this wire to ground through a hidden switch. BY-9: Grounded to operate the fuel pump relay. If you choose not to use an inertia switch or a cutoff switch, this wire should be connected directly to ground. G-14: Provides power to loads that are operable only when the key is on. Typically supplies power to the windshield wipers/washer, gauges, brake failure lamp, and low oil pressure lamp. Maximum load on this wire should be less than 8 amps. G-28: Provides power to loads that are operable only when the key is on. Typically supplies power to the heater fan, brake lights, reverse lights, and, if applicable, the overdrive unit. Maximum load on this wire should be less than 15 amps. LG/N-14: Feeds the turn signals, and should be connected to the LG/N wire coming from the turn signal switch in the steering column. Maximum wattage for the TS bulbs should be 27 watts. (typically, 1157 bulbs) LG/R-28: Power to the fan indicator lamp when the fan is on. This is optional, but is recommended. N-28: Provides power to the BATT terminal of the ignition switch. N-120: Main power feed from the alternator/battery. This wire carries ALL of the current used by the car. NR-14: Provides power to the headlight switch. P-14: Provides power to loads that are operable with the key on or off. Typically supplies power to the flash-to-pass switch, clock, courtesy lamps, and memory power for the radio. Maximum load on this wire should be less than 8 amps. P-28: Optional accessory power. This lead could be left as a spare, provide power to a lighter socket for plug-in accessories, or provide power to a stereo amplifier. Maximum load on this wire should be less than 15 amps.

wire should be less than 15 amps. PB-9: Grounded by the horn button, and operates the horn relay. PN-28: Supplies the flasher voltage to the turn signal lamps, via the hazard switch. See text for details. PY-28: Supplies power to the horns when the horn relay is operated. The other side of the horns should be grounded. Maximum current on this wire should be no more than 15 amps. R-14: Provides power to the parking/marker lights, and to the dash lights via the dash light dimmer. RG-14: Power from the headlight switch to the fuse for the parking/marker and dash lights. S-14: Connects to the optional fuel pump warning buzzer. See text for details. UR-14: Power to the headlight low-beam relay from the dimmer switch. UR-28: Power to the headlight low-beams from the headlight relay. Low beams should be a maximum of 90 watts each. UR-14: Power to the headlight low-beam relay from the dimmer switch. UR-28: Power to the headlight high-beams from the headlight relay. High beams should be a maximum of 90 watts each. W-14: Input to the ignition side of the alternator warning light from the power relay. W-28: Provides power to the ignition coil. WG-9: Operates the ignition relay from the ignition switch. YN-28: Provides power to the cooling fan. Maximum load on this wire should be no more than 15 amps. YR-28: Supplies power to the fuel pump. 15 amp Maximum. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS: Panel: The wiring panel (see page 12) is made from a piece of 16 gauge steel, purchased from a home building supply store such as Lowes or Home Depot. For ease of fabrication, it is designed as a flat sheet, which means you will need to use spacers or other form of stand-offs to accommodate the fasteners used to hold the components on the panel. If you want to be real fancy, you could make the panel with feet, eliminating the spacers. This particular size and shape is just a suggestion, and you can modify it to fit if you have a particular location in mind for your own panel. You could separate the fuses from the relays and flashers, and make the panel in two pieces if you wish. The location of the holes for the flasher and relay sockets was deliberately planned to allow the flashers and relays to stick out from the panel so that they would be easy to grip when you need to replace them. In general, these components are a tight fit in the sockets, and a bit of force is needed to remove them - they can be hard to remove in tight quarters when you

need to replace them. It helps to have finger room so you can get a good grip on them. If you wish to use a 3 instead of a 2 terminal flasher for the hazards, with a separate indicator to let you know the flasher is working, you will need to move the flasher mounting holes back from the edge by 3/4, because the 3 terminal flashers are a bit longer. If you are using separate indicators for right and left turns, as stock, you wont need a separate hazard indicator. You can use either screws and nuts or rivets to fasten the components in place on the panel. If you use screws and nuts, you will have to use special clinch head screw on the relay sockets, as there is little clearance for the screw heads when the relays are installed. If you use rivets, you will have to modify your rivet gun a bit to install the relay sockets - there isnt room for a standard rivet gun nose. See the photo below for details.

Modifications required to the rivet gun to rivet the relay sockets in place. Clinch head screws will eliminate the need for this. Relays: Standard 5-terminal SPST automotive type relays are used for everything except the fuel pump relay. The difference between a 5-terminal and a 4-terminal SPST relay is that there are TWO output terminals, both having an 87 designation. If you cant find 5-terminal SPST relays, you might get by with 4terminal relays, but it is a bit difficult to attache two larger size wires to one terminal. Using relays with two output terminals alleviates the problem. Just make sure the relay you get is indeed a SPST, and not a SPDT (which has 87 and 87a output terminals. For the fuel pump, you will need a SPDT relay, often referred to as a changeover relay. This relay has a normally open and a normally closed contact. The normally closed contact (87a)is used for the warning buzzer circuit. If you should inadvertently use one of the standard SPST 4-terminal relays in the fuel pump circuit, the only problem will be that the warning buzzer wont work - all other fuel pump functions will still work ok. If you use a SPST 5-terminal relay instead, the buzzer will sound when the pump is ON, not when it is off. Fuse Blocks: When you buy your fuse blocks, they will come with four individual terminals and one bus bar with terminals for four fuses, as shown below. For the purple fuse block, use the four terminal strip intact. For the green fuse block, you will need to cut the strip as shown. Three of the terminals will supply power to the green loads, and the fourth will be used for the parking light fuse. When you cut the strip, be sure to remove 3

ALTERNATOR

IGNITION WARNING LAMP

NY - 14 amber (as supplied) 15A WP - 28 W - 14

N - 28

B - 28

RADIO

P - 14

GM ALTERNATOR
N - 120

CLOCK/PRESET MEMORY POWER

ACC START

IGNITION SWITCH
IGN

WR 28

WG - 9

W - 28

W - 14

BATT

BATTERY RF MARKER LAMP RF PARKING LAMP LF PARKING LAMP LF MARKER LAMP

B-9

+
PK - 9

85

87 87

N - 44

LH DOOR SWITCH STARTER

P - 14

86

30

R - 14

KEY WARNING BUZZER

N - 28 N - 120

POWER RELAY
N - 44
N - 44 N - 28 N - 28 BW - 9 N - 28

PG - 9
B-9

R - 14

P - 14

B-9

R - 14

ANTI-THEFT CUTOUT SWITCH

POWER TERMINAL

R - 14
B-9

R - 14

HEADLIGHT SWITCH
RR MARKER LAMP RR TAIL LAMP LICENSE PLATE LAMP
B-9

R - 14
B-9

NR - 14 P - 14 P - 14 RG - 14

CLOCK
B-9

R - 14

CIGAR LIGHTER
B-9

U - 14

15A

P1

P2

10A

P3

B-9

R - 14

COURTESY LAMPS & SWITCHES

B-9

P - 28 P - 14 P - 14 (NR)

P - 28

P - 14

R - 14

LICENSE PLATE LAMP LR TAIL LAMP LR MARKER LAMP

RW - 14

B-9

PW - 9 PW - 9 R - 14

PW - 9

(N)

UR - 14 (UR) (UW)

B-9

LOW BEAMS

B-9

R - 14
B-9

DIMMER SWITCH

85

30

PW - 9

86

87

87

SPEEDOMETER

R - 14

B-9

HATCH LAMP & SWITCH

UW - 14

RW - 14

UR - 28

UR - 28

HIGH BEAMS

RW - 14

85

30

30

TACHOMETER

RW - 14

GAUGE LIGHT DIMMER

B - 14
RW DEFROST

UW - 14

HIGH BEAM INDICATOR

B - 28 UR - 28

86

87

87

87 87

RW - 14

LOW BEAMS

UW - 28

UW - 28

WATER

CIGAR

RW - 14

RW - 14

PY - 28

B - 28

UR - 28

HAZARD

OIL

RW - 14

RW - 14

RW - 14

RW - 14

HIGH BEAMS

B - 28

UW - 28

HEATER

CLOCK

VOLTS

RW - 14

FUEL

RW - 14

B - 28

UW - 28

15A
P - 28

W - 28 B-9

WIPER/WASHER SWITCH
G - 14 (GK) (LGB)

(ULG) (R/LG) (NLG) (B)

ULG - 14 R/LG - 14 NLG - 14 G - 14

WIPER MOTOR
B - 14

IGNITION COIL DISTRIBUTER

FUEL GAUGE
G - 14 LGB - 14

GB - 9

G - 14 10A G - 14 G - 28 15A

G - 14

B-9

AFTERMARKET GAUGES

WASHER MOTOR

G - 14

WATER TEMP

GU - 9

G - 28

WB 28

B 28

G - 14

OIL PRESSURE

YP - 9

G - 28 10A G - 28 R - 14 10A

BACKLIGHT HEATER & SWITCH

G - 14

TACHOMETER

YG - 9

G - 28

HEATER SWITCH
(GY)

G - 14

VOLTMETER
G - 14

85

30

POWER BLOCK
15A
P - 28

FUEL PUMP

(B)

BRAKE FAILURE SWITCH & LAMP

G - 14 WB - 9

BW - 9 BW - 9

HEATER FAN WARNING BUZZER

S - 14 B-9

86

87

87a

LOW OIL PRESSURE SWITCH & LAMP

GP - 28

BRAKE SWITCH AND LIGHTS

G - 28 GP - 28

YR - 28

FUEL PUMP CUTOUT SW

BO - 9 B-9 G - 28

INERTIA SW
BY - 9

REVERSE SWITCH AND LIGHTS

GN - 28

GN - 28

COOLING FAN

OD SWITCH
P - 14 OR G - 14 SEE TEXT
30 85 (W) (Y)

TRANSMISSION INTERLOCK SWITCH

YG 28 YP - 28

GR - 14

LH FRONT B - 9

OD SOLENOID

GR - 14

LH REAR

87

87

86

HAZARD SWITCH
GR - 14 GR - 14 green B-9

TURN SIGNAL
G - 14
LG/N - 14

(GR) (LG/N)

BR - 14

LH TS INDICATOR

B
SEE TEXT 85

L
(GW) RB - 14 GW - 14 GW - 14 green B-9

HAZARD
P - 28

RH TS INDICATOR

PN - 28 GW - 14

86

RH REAR

HORN
PB - 9 (PB) GW - 14

RH FRONT B - 9

HORN BUTTON
LG/R - 28
YN - 28
BG - 9 PY - 28 PY - 28

TEMPERATURE SWITCH COOLING FAN

HORNS
B-9

LH
B - 28

RH
B - 28

BB - 28

COLOR CODES N Brown LG Light Green G Green U Blue W White B Black R Red Y Yellow K Pink P Purple S Slate O Orange Wire colors shown in ( ) are supplied as part of the component they are connected to. = one pin of a multi pin connector. These connectors may be used as is, or replaced with bullet/sleeve or other connectors.

FAN INDICATOR LAMP

B-9

TYPICAL LATE CB MGBGT WIRING KIT

5

TO IGNITION COIL MINUS POST

B-9 B-9 B-9 B-9 B-9 B-9 B-9 B-9 B-9

material between the two pieces; otherwise, the terminals may come into contact with one another, causing mis-operation of the associated circuits.

crimp, so it will be necessary to strip both wires a bit longer, and use both crimps to hold the bare wires. Another helpful hint: when crimping around the insulation on a small wire, it helps if you use a pair of diagonal cutter to cut the ends of the crimp off, as shown on page 6, before folding over the insulation. This just makes a neater job.

Snip off

Retaining clips For small wires, snip off a portion of the crimp - it will make a neater crimp this way. If you do have the correct tool, as shown in the photo below, making these terminations is very easy. This tool makes a factory style termination, and is really quite good. See the photo below for samples of wire terminations made with this tool. You may have to look a bit to find one locally, but they can be bought from some of the venders listed at the end of this article.

Fuse block terminal/buss bar. At top is the standard configuration, and below is a bar modified for this application Wire Terminations: The techniques for terminating wires in the fuse blocks, relay sockets, and flasher sockets are a bit different than the normal practice for terminating wire connectors. The flasher wiring is covered below, but techniques for the other two are illustrated in the photo below.

Factory style crimping tool

Crimp the wiring/terminals using a pair of pliers. The lower crimp should be over the insulation for a one-wire crimp, and over the bare wires only for a two-wire crimp. Standard crimping tools wont work here, nor will simply soldering the wires. If you dont have the correct crimping tool, it will be necessary to crimp the terminals onto the wire using a small pair of pliers (duckbill pliers work best), and then soldering them. Crimping alone isnt adequate with the pliers, so it is mandatory that you also solder. When terminating a single wire, it is recommended that you use one of the crimps around the wire, and the other crimp around the insulation (as shown in the photo below). When you are terminating two wires, you wont be able to fit the insulation of both wires under the 6

A factory style crimp, using the tool shown above, and described in the text. After you have soldered or crimped the wires in place, insert the terminals into the backs of the sockets firmly, pushing until you hear them click in place. If you should insert one into the wrong position, it can be removed using the same technique outlined below for removing the flasher terminals, except the retaining clips are in a slightly different position on the terminals. Flasher Sockets: When you receive your flasher sockets, they

will have 8 wire leads already attached. You can leave these leads on and splice them into the remainder of the wiring if you wish, but theres a neater way.

crimping with this tool, make sure that the seam in the terminal is on the concave side of the jaws, rather than on the convex side. Otherwise, the tool will split the terminal, and make a very poor crimp. I also recommend that you use non-insulated terminals, solder them after crimping, and then slip heat shrink tubing over the terminal.

Flasher socket, with a terminal which has been removed. For a much neater installation, remove the terminals from the flasher sockets and replace the wires with your own wires, of the correct color code. To remove the terminals, use a sharp pointed object (or, for an easier job, use two) to press on the terminal retaining clips and pull the terminals out.When you look at the sockets, it will be obvious how this is done.. After the terminals are removed, you will see how the wires are soldered in place (quite sloppily, actually). Using your soldering gun, unsolder the wires and remove them, shaking the terminals while the solder is still hot to remove the excess solder. Now, its a simple task to solder in your own wires. As an added bonus, trouble shooting later on will be much easier if you have the correct color coded wires. GB crimping tool, from Lowes, Home depot, etc. Bullet/Sleeve connectors: The only reason for using connectors is to ease assembly - either on the factory assembly line or in your garage. Connectors are also the most common place for electrical problems, so you will be doing yourself a favor if you eliminate as many as you can, wiring directly to the components as much as possible. Still, there will be places where the standard British bullet/sleeve connectors will be needed. British Wiring supplies two different kinds of bullets those intended to be soldered, and those that may be soldered or crimped. I recommend buying the latter type, and soldering them, rather than buying the solder only type. They just work better. When you solder, use a low temperature, rosin core, solder, such as the 60/40 solder sold by Radio Shack. This is a small diameter solder, and works very well for automobile wiring purposes. Do not use acid core solder! When soldering these bullets onto the wire, strip just enough of the wire so that the insulation is just inside the bullet when the tip of the wire is fully inserted. Hold the soldering gun next to the bullet while you try to feed the solder into the hole in the end of the bullet. As soon as the bullet is hot enough, the solder will start to flow, and will be drawn up into the bullet. Feed just enough solder to fill the bullet, but try not to feed enough that

Solder

Retaining clips Flasher socket terminal, as removed from a socket. Crimping tools: Rather than using the typical auto parts store crimping tool for the standard terminations, I recommend going to Home Depot, Lowes, or similar, and buying a GB crimping tool as shown above. This tool has the advantage that it crimps along the wire, rather than across the wire. This spreads the crimp over a larger area, and make a much better crimp. When

Proper technique for soldering bullet connectors 7

it wicks up the wire very far. A little bit of experimentation will show you just how much solder to feed. See photo above. There is another option for installing bullet connectors, and that is to use a special crimping tool sold by British Wiring, just for bullets. Its a bit pricey, at around $50.00, but it is NICE! I have one, and I will never solder bullets again.

sockets. Run the headlight wires directly into the headlight buckets, cover the wires with protective sleeving as they pass through holes in the buckets and the fenders to prevent abrasion, and crimp AND solder the wires to the socket terminals. If you should ever need to remove the wiring for some reason, you will have to either cut the wires just short of the sockets and replace the sockets when youre finished, or remove the terminals from the sockets as described earlier. Leave enough slack in the wires to allow for this. I believe Ive covered everything you need to know to build the Power block, and to install it in your car. Keep in mind as you compare the cost of this panel with some of the commercially available wiring systems, or to a stock replacement harness, that the prices shown for this wiring system is complete, and will replace ALL of the wiring in your car. None of the other approaches will include, for example, the inertia cutoff switch, nor will they have six relays. The cost for this setup is very comparable to many of the aftermarket systems, and cheaper than a stock replacement harness. If you buy a replacement harness, you will still have to modify it to your application. Just think how cool itll be to tell your friends I made my own wiring harness!

Crimping tool for British type bullet terminals. HEADLIGHT WIRING: For maximum headlight brightness, you should eliminate ALL connections between the headlight relays and the headlight

OPTIONS: If you are using an older A type overdrive unit, you will have to add a relay, as the solenoid for this type OD unit draws too much current for the selector switch to handle. To do this, youll have to modify the circuit and add a relay as shown to the right. Or, you could eliminate the fuel pump relay, wiring it directly to the fuse block, and rewire that relay for the OD function. To add a relay for the OD, just add the wiring shown in dark lines on the right to the existing power block. The mounting plate will have to be lengthened 1 7/32 to make room for the relay. If you wish to add a relay for driving lights, modify the circuit as shown, and as described on page 2. If you are not using the fuel pump relay for the OD circuit, you can use it for the driving lights, wiring the pump directly to the fuse block Even if you dont need to use the pump relay for another function, you may not want to use it for the pump either. In that case, just eliminate it as shown. Prefer to have a relay for the starter? Wire it as shown, either adding a relay or using one of relays that you might not be using for its original function. You may wish to locate the power terminal to another location, off the panel, or you may wish to eliminate it altogether and wire the brown power leads directly to the starter solenoid. Many other options are open to you after all, this is a CUSTOM wiring system, so design it that way YOU want it! 8
85 87 87 G1 105A G G

G2 86 30 15A

POWER RELAY

G3 10A

G - 14/28

R1 10A

FUEL PUMP
WR - 28

INERTIA SW

85

30

STARTER

86

87

87

WR - 14

FROM IGNITION SWITCH

STARTER

YG - 9

B-9

Y-9

Y-9 B-9

15A

P1

P2

10A

P3

15A

P4

N 86 87 87

15A

85

30

OVERDRIVE

OVERDRIVE ON - OFF SWITCH

Y-9

B-9

YP - 28

DRIVING LIGHTS

TRANSMISSION INTERLOCK SWITCHES OD SOLENOID

85

30

LOW BEAMS

86 85 30

87

87

UP - 28 UP - 28 UP - 9

86

87

87

TURN SIGNAL
G

DRIVING LIGHT SWITCH

DRIVING LIGHTS

COOLING FAN

HIGH BEAMS

85

30

30

85

30

85

86

87

87

HORN

see text HAZARD L B P

87 87 86

87 87 86

WG - 9

W - 28

W - 14

85

87 87

N - 44
10A

G - 14 G - 14 G - 28

G - 14

G - 28

86

30

15A

POWER RELAY
10A

G - 28

N - 28 N - 120

N - 44

N - 28

R - 14 10A

N - 44 N - 28 N - 28 BW - 9

POWER TERMINAL

R - 14
85 30

NR - 14 RG - 14

POWER BLOCK
15A 15A
P1 P2

86

87

87a

FUEL PUMP

S - 14

10A

P3

15A

YR - 28

P - 28 P - 14

P - 28

P - 14

P - 28

P - 28

BY - 9

UR - 14

86

87

87

87

87

86

B-9 UW - 14 UW - 14 UR - 28 UR - 28

P - 14 OR G - 14 SEE TEXT

85

30

COOLING FAN

LOW BEAMS

30

85

TURN SIGNAL
G - 14
LG/N - 14

HIGH BEAMS

85

30

30

SEE TEXT 85

HAZARD
P - 28

PN - 28

86

87

87

87 87

86

HORN
PB - 9

UW - 28

UW - 28

PY - 28

LG/R YN 28 28

BG - 9

BASIC POWER BLOCK WIRING

9

WIRE
Meters required per color per size 9 14 28 Color/size Black 2 2 3 Black/Green 3 Black/Orange 1 Black/Red 1 Black/White 3 Black/Yellow 2 Blue 1 Blue/LG 2 Blue/Red 2 7 Blue/White 4 7 Brown 3 Brown/LG 2 Brown/Red 2 Brown/Yellow 3 Green 4 4 Green/Black 4 Green/Blue 3 Green/Brown 5 Green/Purple 5 Green/Red 7 Green/White 7 LG/Black 2 LG/Brown 2 LG.Red 2 Purple 4 2 Purple/Black 2 Purple/Brown 2 Purple/Green 1 Purple/Pink 1 Purple/White 4 Purple/Yellow 4 Red 6 Red/Black 1 Red/Green 2 Red/LG 2 Red/White 3 Slate 2 White 2 3 White/Black 2 4 White/Brown 1 White/Green 1 White/Purple 2 White/Red 3 Yellow/Brown 4 Yellow/Green 3 2 Yellow/Purple 1 1 Yellow/Red 4 Total cost for wiring: Total cost for panel wiring only: 44 120 Price 4.65 1.35 0.45 0.60 1.35 0.90 0.60 1.20 7.15 8.35 4 15.55 1.20 1.20 1.80 5.80 1.80 1.35 4.25 4.25 4.20 4.20 1.20 1.20 1.70 4.10 0.90 1.70 0.45 0.45 1.80 3.40 3.60 0.60 1.20 1.20 1.80 1.20 3.75 4.30 0.45 0.45 1.70 2.55 3.40 3.05 1.30 3.40 $123.05 $77.60

HARDWARE
Part Name Vendor building supply Mounting plate Cable clamp - #16 building supply Fuse blocks auto parts store Power terminal MAD Enterprises Flasher sockets Ron Francis WW Headlight sockets American Autowire American Autowire Alternator plug Alternator stud boot American Autowire Hazard switch DPDT Waytek Fan Switch SPST Radio Shack/auto store Fan indicator lamp Radio Shack/auto store Cutout switch SPST Waytek Fuel pump buzzer Radio Shack Hazard flasher auto parts store TS flasher auto parts store Waytek Relay sockets Relay socket terminals Waytek Relay (SPST) Waytek Relay (changeover) Waytek Wiper motor plug British Wiring British Wiring Washer motor plug Wire bullets (9 strd) British Wiring Wire bullets (14 strd) British Wiring Wire bullets (28 strd) British Wiring British Wiring Sleeve, single Sleeve, double British Wiring Inertia switch Moss Motors Total cost for hardware Cost for panel mounted components only Part # n/a n/a n/a CN-1 FC-32 500196 500201 500057 44263 your choice your choice 44251 your choice 552 552 75280 31073 75102 75113 805 841 309 314 328 311 312 900-240 Quan 1 1 2 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 6 30 5 1 1 1 2 42 15 5 15 1 Price 7.95 0.50 4.98 4.99 9.00 3.00 3.00 2.50 5.00 5.00 5.00 2.53 5.95 2.95 2.95 0.73 0.10 3.60 3.38 3.00 1.60 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.30 0.50 49.95 Total 7.95 0.50 9.96 4.99 18.00 6.00 3.00 2.50 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.06 5.95 2.95 2.95 4.38 3.00 18.00 3.38 3.00 1.60 0.24 5.04 1.80 1.50 7.50 49.95 184.20 76.06

Items shown as shaded are panel mounted items. Depending on the year, additional multi-pin connectors may be needed to connect the wiring to the steering column mounted switches. These connectors are not listed here because you may prefer not to use them, and the type of connectors varies from year to year, and one part number wouldnt apply to all models. Check with the vendors listed below if you wish to use them.

VENDORS
American Autowire Systems 150 Heller Place, #17 West Bellmawr, NJ 08031 1-800-482-9473 www.americanautowire.com British Wiring 20449 Ithaca Olympia Fields, IL 60461 1-708-481-9050 www.britishwiring.com Waytek, Inc PO Box 690 Chanhassen, MN 55317-0690 1-800-3282724 www.waytekwire.com Ron Francis Wire Works 167 Keystone Road Chester, PA 19013 1-800-292-1940 www.wire-works.com Moss Motors PO Box 847 440 Rutherford Street Goleta, CA 93116 1-800-667-7872 MAD Enterprises PO Box 675 Springville, CA 93265 1-559-539-7127 www.madelectrical.com

Note: Quantities shown should be more than adequate for a typical application. For more precise values, depending on where you locate the power block,you will need to measure your specific installation before ordering. Wiring shown as shaded is for the power block wiring, but the number of meters shown in shaded areas may be for the entire system.

Total cost - panel only Total cost - complete system

$153.66 $307.25

NOTE: Miscellaneous small hardware items - screws, nuts, bolts, terminals, heat shrink tubing, tie wraps, harness wrap, etc - are not listed. Prices shown are as of summer, 2002, and may not be current. Check with the venders for upto-date prices.

MATERIALS LIST
10

POWER

FUEL PUMP

COOLING FAN

HORN

HIGH BEAMS

LOW BEAMS

30 85 87 87 86 85

30
87a

30 86 85 87 87 86 85

30 87 87 86 85

30 87 87 86 85

30 87 87 86

87

NOTE: terminal designations are as viewed from the back (wiring side) of the sockets.

PURPLE FUSE BLOCK

X L L

GREEN FUSE BLOCK

POWER TERMINAL

HAZARD FLASHER

TURN SIGNAL FLASHER

Power Block Connection details - shown approximately 3/4 scale

8 3/8

1 7/32

1 7/32

1 7/32

1 7/32

1 7/32

1 1/4

3/16

DRILL 13/64 17 PLACES

UNIVERSAL BRITISH CAR POWER BLOCK

1

DRILL 1/4 4 PLACES FOR 10-32 NUTSERTS

3 3/8

3/4

1/4 1/4

1/2

3/8 7/8 1/2 1 1/2 3/4 9 3/8 3 1/8 15/16

Power Block mounting plate - shown approximately 3/4 scale

11

3/8

4 1/2

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