East Lothian and the North Sea Trail

Contents
Introduction to East Lothian and the John Muir Way
About the North Sea Trail 1
How to use this Guide 1
Key to map 1
Route 1 Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular 3
Route 2 Musselburgh to Prestonpans on the John Muir Way 5
Route 3 Wallyford to Prestonpans - Station to Station 7
Route 4 Seton Collegiate Church 9
Route 5 Longniddry to Haddington Railway Walk and
the River Tyne Path 11
Route 6 Aberlady to Gullane on the John Muir Way 13
Route 7 Gullane Circular 15
Route 8 Dirleton and Yellowcraig Circular 17
Route 9 North Berwick and the Law 19
Route 10 North Berwick Circular 21
Route 11 East Linton to Traprain Law 23
Route 12 Dunbar’s Cliff Top Trail to John Muir Country Park 25
Route 13 Thorntonloch to Dunglass on the John Muir Way 27
Route 14 Dunglass to Oldhamstocks 29
Scottish Outdoor Access Code 30
Useful safety tips 30
Getting to East Lothian and public transport 31
John Muir Statue Where to stay and eat 31
Old Town House, Dunbar Useful information 32

Introduction to East Lothian and the John Muir Way

he selection of routes in this Inland, East Lothian’s rolling landscape

T booklet give a flavour of the

countryside and heritage that
can be seen along the John Muir Way,
East Lothian’s section of the North
Sea Trail.
The John Muir Way extends for over
70km between Fisherrow Harbour in
Musselburgh and Dunglass on the
boundary with the Scottish Borders
and is named after the world-
renowned conservationist and
founder of America’s National Parks,
born in Dunbar in 1838.
Along the Way, you will see iconic
features such as the Bass Rock, North
Berwick Law and Traprain Law,
remnants of major prehistoric
volcanic activity.
gave rise to its reputation as the ‘bread
basket of Scotland,’ inspiring national
poet Robert Burns to state that the
county was “the most glorious corn
country I ever saw.” Golden fields of
wheat and barley rise to meet a green
and purple patchwork of grassland and
heather moor on the Lammermuir Hills
to the south.
East Lothian also has a colourful history.
Traprain Law is thought to have been
one of the principal hill forts of the
ancient Celtic people called the Votadini.
Over the centuries the Romans, Picts,
Scots, Northumbrians, and English
armies have claimed the county and left
evidence of their presence in a rich
tapestry of place names.

Bass Rock
 nortrail walks.qxp 27/3/07 15:28
About the
North Sea Trail
The North Sea Trail is a
European Union funded project
that promotes opportunities for
exploring natural and cultural
heritage through path
networks around the North Sea.
26 regions from Norway,
Sweden, Denmark, Germany,
The Netherlands, England and
Scotland are involved in
providing access to trails,
information about local
heritage, and promoting
business development for local
service providers. Further
information on the trail can be
found on
www.northseatrail.org, or for
more information on the NAVE
Nortrail project visit
www.nave.no
Picturesque ruined castles and towers
bear testament to this turbulent past.
Hailes, Dirleton and Tantallon are
among a number of ancient castles
and monuments in the care of
Historic Scotland where visitor
interpretation is provided.
You can visit other historic buildings
and monuments in the care of
Historic Scotland and the National
. Trust for Scotland, as well as the John
Muir Birthplace Museum, the Scottish
Seabird Centre with its remote
. cameras trained on the Bass Rock
(the third largest gannetry in the
world), the Museum of Flight and the
“Concorde Experience”, Glenkinchie
Distillery (home of the “Edinburgh
Malt”), and 21 quality golf courses.
Page 2
How to Use this Guide
Distances and suggested times are listed for each route, as well as
indications of local points of interest, local services and public
transport. Distances are given in kilometres (km) and miles; for
some of the routes the amount of ascent or descent is given in
metres (m) or feet. Some of the routes start and finish at the same
point, whilst others may be completed by using public transport, by
pre-arranging car transport at either end, or by re-tracing your
steps back to the start. Many of the routes are signposted, but
others are not and directions are given as a guide. Timings are
approximate.
Some of the routes in this booklet may be suitable for cycling,
horse riding and access by people of all abilities; contact East
Lothian Council’s Outdoor Access Officers (see page 32) for further
information. Follow the guidance of the Scottish Outdoor Access
Code www.outdooraccess-scotland.com (see page 31). A brief
summary of the Code (Know the Code before you go) is available in
11 different languages online: www.snh.org.uk or available to order
free of charge from Scottish Natural Heritage’s publication section,
tel. 01738 444177.
Nungate Bridge, Haddington
Many visitors come to discover Key to Maps
the beauty of East Lothian’s The John Muir Way
coast and countryside for / North Sea Trail
walking, cycling, horse riding,
Routes
watersports and other outdoor
activities. We hope you will Start Start
discover the delights of East Finish Finish
Lothian. Take your time, enjoy T Public Toilets
the great views, stay a while, D Disabled Facilities
and seek out the many T Seasonal Opening
fascinating places that have T Weekends only
helped to shape the county and in winter
make it the place it is today.
i Information
1
Fisherrow Harbour,
Musselburgh

John Muir Way

Start 1
Finishi
T D
2
T D
3

4
6
5

The Manor House,

Inveresk 500 metres
north
 Route 1 Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular
Start and Finish: Fisherrow Harbour
Distance: 8 km/5 miles
Time: 2 – 2½ hours
Terrain and path information: Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements, some steps.

Points of Interest: 1 Fisherrow Harbour – a late medieval harbour with

possible Roman origins.
2 River Esk – habitat and roosting area for birds, such as
mute swans, and waders, which feed on the tidal flats.
3 Musselburgh Tolbooth – its prominent clock was a
gift to the people of Musselburgh from 'the Dutch
states' in 1496.
4 Lewisvale Park – an Edwardian public park dating
from 1911.
5 Inveresk Village – a delightful conservation village –
location of the National Trust for Scotland’s Inveresk
Lodge Garden.
6 Roman Inveresk – a prominent fort between 142 and
163 AD.
7 Roman Bridge - dating from the 16th century, it is
reputed to be built over a Roman foundation.

Directions: From Fisherrow Harbour follow the signposts for the John
Muir Way along the promenade and around the west side
of the river mouth. Cross the first bridge and continue
straight ahead along James Street, turning right at Mill Hill,
then left at Kerr’s Wynd to join the High Street. Cross at
the pedestrian crossing and continue up Newbigging; turn
right at Inveresk Road, then almost immediately turn left
up Inveresk Brae. Enter Lewisvale Public Park on the left
shortly after. After passing the bandstand look out for a
black signpost on the right. Ascend the steps here
following the sign for the cricket pitches and follow the
path around the fields. Exit the park to come out on Double
Dykes. Cross over Inveresk Village Road, turn left then right
to enter Wedderburn Terrace.
A path at the end of the street leads to the River Esk. Once
at the riverside turn right heading back into Musselburgh.
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Leave the path at Eskmills Park, and cross Mall Avenue to

follow the river downstream. Cross the Esk by the Roman
Bridge and continue along Market Street until North High
Street is reached; use the crossing to reach the starting
point at Fisherrow Harbour.

Public Transport: There are regular bus and rail services to Musselburgh.

Local Services: Musselburgh is well served with shops, cafes, and

restaurants.

3
Prestongrange looking towards Cockenzie Power Station

John Muir Way 7

Oystercatchers
2
5
i 1
Start 3 4
T D
T D

Levenhall, Musselburgh 500 metres

north
 Route 2 Musselburgh to Prestonpans on the John Muir Way
Start: Fisherrow Harbour
Finish: Prestonpans
Distance: 6 km/4 miles (one way)
Time: 1½ - 2 hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Mostly well-surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1 Fisherrow Harbour – as Route 1.

2 River Esk mouth – as Route 1.
3 Musselburgh Racecourse – a venue for horse racing
since 1816.
4 Musselburgh Links – reputed to be the oldest playing
golf course in the World. Mary Queen of Scots is
alleged to have played golf here in 1567.
5 Levenhall Links – 134 hectares of reclaimed land
widely recognised as being one of the best places to
watch birds on the Scottish mainland.
6 Prestongrange Industrial Heritage Museum – site of
former colliery and where the industrial heritage of
Prestonpans is interpreted. A site of industrial heritage
since the 13th century.
7 Morrison’s Haven – historic harbour, now disused, but
originally established by the monks of Newbattle Abbey
in 1526.

Directions: From Fisherrow Harbour follow the signposts for the John
Muir Way along the promenade and around the river
mouth to cross the pedestrian bridge. Turn left following
the river downstream until another sign at the end of the
road is reached. Continue across the playing field to reach
PRESTONPANS the track adjacent to the perimeter sea wall. Follow this
Finish track for approximately 2km until a sign points inland
across a grass meadow; follow this to eventually reach
Ravenshaugh Road. Follow the signposted route of the
John Muir Way left via Morrison’s Haven and continue
along the John Muir Way to reach Prestonpans.
6
Public Transport: Regular coastal bus service. Rail stations at Musselburgh,
Wallyford and Prestonpans.
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and public toilets at
Musselburgh and Prestonpans.

5
View from Fa’side Hill towards Edinburgh

John Muir Way

5
Finish 6

Wallyford Sculpture Trail

Start

2
Fa’side
Castle 1 kilometre
1 north
 Route 3 Wallyford to Prestonpans – Station to Station
Start: Wallyford Train Station
Finish: Prestonpans Train Station
Distance: 8 km/5 miles (one way)
Time: 2½ - 3 hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Paths and quiet roads mostly. Fa’side Hill involves 360 feet
of steep climbing over 2.5km from Wallyford (more gradual
approach from Prestonpans).

Points of Interest: 1 Fa’side Castle (private house, no access) – a restored

15th century tower.
2 Fa’side Hill – good views of the coast and the former
coalfields of East Lothian.
3 Tranent Church – built in 1800 on the foundations of
an earlier 15th century church.
4 ‘The Bing’ and Battle of Prestonpans interpretation
point – panoramic views of the site of Bonnie Prince
Charlie’s victory in 1745.
5 Colonel Gardiner’s Monument – Colonel Gardiner
was killed in the Battle of Prestonpans.
6 Bankton House (private house, no access) –
beautifully restored 18th century building, formerly
Colonel Gardiner’s house.

Directions: From Wallyford Rail Station, head eastwards to Inchview

Road and continue uphill beyond the houses to a wide
path. After a short distance turn right through a kissing
gate. Follow the path, stopping to notice occasional stone
blocks carved with images reflecting mining heritage and
4 forming the Wallyford Sculpture Trail. Continue until you
reach a pedestrian bridge over the A1. Cross this and
continue straight ahead, starting to ascend the steep path
to Fa’side Hill. At the top of the hill, just beyond Fa’side
Castle, turn left on to a quiet road. Continue on this road,
3 taking care and looking out for traffic, turning right after
approximately 1 mile/1.6km to enter Lammermoor Terrace
in Tranent. Continue on this road heading into town and as
T D the road curves towards Edinburgh Road head for the steps
to ‘The Heugh.’ Continue on the path under the bridge of the
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

busy A199. Continue straight ahead and eventually crossing

under the A1. Beyond the tunnel make for the ‘Bing’ and
climb the path up to the viewpoint. Descend and turn left
onto the signposted path to make for Prestonpans Station.
Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service between Wallyford and
Prestonpans.

Local Services: There are shops, cafes and restaurants in Wallyford,

Tranent, and Prestonpans.

7
Seton Collegiate Church

Start
T D Finish

1
2

Seton House 500 metres

north
 Route 4 Seton Collegiate Church
Start and Finish: Port Seton, just west of Seton Sands holiday camp
Distance: 3 km/2 miles
Time: 1 hour
Terrain and path information: Paths, tracks, pavements and quiet roads.

Points of Interest: 1 Seton Collegiate Church – a fifteenth century church

built by the powerful Seton family. Historic Scotland
property.
2 Seton House (private house, no access) – lavish
Robert Adam designed house, on the site of Seton
Palace former home of the Seton family.
3 Seton Mill – the stream here once drove a series of
water mills.

Directions: From the B1348 coast road follow the Sandy Walk inland,
bearing west to the Fisher’s Road and then continuing until
you meet the B1361. Turn left, heading east, passing the
entrance to Seton House, a private residence, and take the
path to the Collegiate Church shortly after. Pass the
entrance gate and join a faint path through the wood and
across a field to meet the Sandy Walk again. Head back to
the coast.

Public Transport: Regular coastal bus service to Prestonpans.

Local Services: Port Seton is well served by shops, cafes and public toilets.

John Muir Way

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

9
 2

1
Start
Robin

Black-headed Gull

500 metres
north
Sparrowhawk

Route 5
continued
Finish
8
T D 7
6
HADDINGTON

e
Tyn
5 R.

St Mary’s Church,
Haddington 500 metres
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381 north
 Route 5 Longniddry to Haddington Railway Walk and
the River Tyne Path
Start: Longniddry Rail Station
Finish: Haddington
Distance: 11.4 km/7 miles (one way)
Time: 3 – 3½ hours (one way)
4 Terrain and path information: Well surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1 Former Railway Line - this branch line was opened in
1846 and carried passengers and farm produce to
Edinburgh. The line closed in 1968.
2 Redhouse Castle – 15th century tower house that can
be seen from the Railway Walk.
3 Lots of wildlife watching opportunities - hedgerows
and woodland along the route offer shelter to a great
diversity of wildlife and many rare wild flowers.
4 Hopetoun Monument – this monument, visible from
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

the Railway Walk, was dedicated to John Hope, the 4th

Earl of Hopetoun (1765-1823) and built in 1824.
5 River Tyne Path – moorhens, swans, ducks and herons
are usually seen on the river and the path is flanked
with mature trees.
6 St Mary’s Church – dating from the 14th century.
Restored in 1971. Visitor interpretation and café.
Route 5
continued 7 Nungate Bridge – a 16th century bridge.
on map below
8 Haddington Town House – built to a plan by William
Adam in 1748.

Directions: From Longniddry Rail Station head east along the B1377
and cross the road to follow the signs for the Railway Walk.
Continue on the Railway Walk for 7km/4½ miles to the end
at Alderston Road, Haddington. From here turn right to
descend to West Road (B6471) and cross straight over
making for the path by the red letterbox. Follow this as it
leads into Burnside and then Clerkington Road, eventually
leading to the Pencaitland Road (A6093). From here turn
left and then immediate right across the road and down
Long Cram. After approximately 200m, the path leading to
the River Tyne path is joined on the right hand side of the
street. Continue on the River Tyne path to the town centre.

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail services to Longniddry and

Haddington.

Local Services: Shops, eating places and public toilets in Longniddry and
Haddington.

Hopetoun
Monument,
Byres Hill 11
Golfer’s Bridge Saltcoats Castle

T
T
Finish

4
T
5
Start 23
Storage Buildings, 1 1 kilometre
Aberlady
John Muir Way north
 Route 6 Aberlady to Gullane on the John Muir Way
Start: Aberlady
Finish: Gullane
Distance: 5 km/3 miles (one way)
Time: 1½ - 2 hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Well surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1 Scottish Ornithologists' Club, Waterston House –

the Headquarters of the SOC, which holds the largest
library of bird literature in Scotland.
2 Aberlady Church – the tower dates from the 15th
century and is reputed to be on the site of a much
earlier Celtic church.
3 ‘Loupin on Stane’ and Mercat Cross – dating from
the 18th century.
4 Aberlady Bay – the Royal Burgh of Haddington’s port,
which was established here in 1149. The Bay is also a
haven for thousands of waders and wildfowl.
5 Luffness House – late 16th century tower house and
doocot possibly on the site of 14th century
fortification. Formerly site of Carmelite Friary first
mentioned in 1335-6, but may have been founded in
the previous century.
6 Saltcoats Castle (no access) – a late 16th century
fortified tower with doocot.

Directions: From the church on Main Street head east along the
pavement out of Aberlady and follow the John Muir Way.
After approximately 1¼ miles/2km the John Muir Way
crosses the main road. Cross the road carefully here.
Continue on the John Muir Way until you meet the track
from Saltcoats Farm. Continue on this into Gullane for
food and refreshments or for the bus back to the start.

Public Transport: Regular bus service to Aberlady and Gullane.

Local Services: There are shops, cafes, restaurants and public toilets in
Aberlady and Gullane.
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

13
Gullane Bay

2 3 1
T
Start
Finish

Tank traps 500 metres

T D
north
 Route 7 Gullane Circular
Start & Finish: Gullane Bents Car Park
Distance: 7.5 km/5 miles (2 km/1¼ miles for shorter option)
Time: 2-2½ hours (40 minutes for shorter option)
Terrain and path information: Grassy paths and tracks, sandy beach.

Points of Interest: 1 Gullane Bents – much of the dune area has been
replanted with sea buckthorn to combat the constant
threat of erosion. Large flocks of fieldfares can be seen
feeding on this in winter. Wild flowers such as viper's
bugloss can be seen in the nutrient poor soils.
2 Tank traps – defensive relics of WWII.
3 Good views out over Gullane Point and the Firth of
Forth.
4 Muirfield Golf Course – host to the Open
Championship.
5 St Patrick’s Chapel – known to have been in existence
in the early part of the 16th century.

Directions: Cross the car park to the south–west corner and go

through the narrow ‘vennel’ path leading to Hill Road.
Turn right, continue uphill to the top of the road and go
through the metal gate where there is a waymarked trail
across Gullane Hill and the golf course. Continue on this as
the path descends to a junction with another path signed
for “Gullane Point” (W) and “Gullane Bents” (E). Take the
path to “Gullane Point” out to the headland above
Hummell Rocks. After taking in the fine views of Gullane
Point retrace your steps back to the signposts, this time
following the route for “Gullane Bents” back to the car
park. You can finish here.

However, for the longer route continue on the mown-grass

path out of the car park to Marine Terrace. Take the
waymarked trail immediately on your left, and after
approximately 1km bear to the right at a junction of paths.
The path eventually goes through a wood before emerging
onto a wide track. Turn left and continue around a small
promontory. Continue on this track past the ruins of a
building near the beach and the Black Rocks. Follow the
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

path by the beach until you reach the path leading back to
the car park.

Public Transport: Regular bus service to Gullane on the Edinburgh – North

Berwick coastal route.

Local Services: There are shops, cafes, restaurants and public toilets in
Gullane.

15
 2
3

Yellowcraig

Start 1
Finish

Forget-me-not

4
5

6
T

Dirleton Castle 500 metres

north
 Route 8 Dirleton and Yellowcraig Circular
Start & Finish: Yellowcraig Car Park
Distance: 6 km/4 miles (1 km/ 5/8 mile for shorter option)
Time: 1½ - 2 hours (allow longer for visiting the Castle)
(20 minutes for shorter option)
Terrain and path information: Grassy paths and tracks, road.

Points of Interest: 1 Yellow Craig – this is part of an ancient volcano that

erupted in Carboniferous times, over 340 million years
ago. There are fine views of the coast, east and west,
from the summit.
2 Fidra Island and lighthouse – the Cistercian Nuns of
North Berwick had a hermitage on the island from 1154.
This was also the site of Castle Tarbet, which preceded
Dirleton Castle. The lighthouse dates from 1885 and
was the first to be automated in Scotland in 1970.
3 Bird watching – in summer look out for eiders, great
crested and red-necked grebes. On the sea look for
puffins from Fidra or Craigleith and passing manx
shearwaters from further afield.
4 Dirleton Gallery – exhibition space and coffee shop
5 Dirleton Auld Kirk - The sixteenth century Kirk houses
the beautiful 'Archerfield window', a stained glass
depiction of wildlife found in the local area.
6 Dirleton Castle – built in 1220, and substantially
re-built in the 15th century.

Directions: From the Yellowcraig car park follow the path into the wood,
next to the bicycle racks, and continue eastwards until you
almost reach the boundary wall of the plantation by some
wind-twisted pines. From here there is an option to climb to
the top of Yellow Craig: ascend the steps, with care, to take
in the panoramic views of the coast. Follow the path in
front of the toilet block and continue to reach the main path
to the beach. Enjoy the beautiful views of Fidra and the
coastline from the beach. You can return to the car park via
the path that leaves the beach to the left. You can finish here.
To continue on the longer route turn right along the south
side of wood just before the interpretation panel by the
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

fence. Follow the track by the side of the wood and after
approximately 500m leave this to follow a field track to
Dirleton village. Take time to enjoy the charming setting of
the village, church and castle. Turn left and follow the signs
for Yellowcraig, taking care on the road back to the car park.

Public Transport: Regular bus service to Dirleton on the Edinburgh – North

Berwick coastal route.

Local Services: Dirleton has a variety of eating places and services.

17
North Berwick Law

3 1 2
Start
John Muir Way

i T D
4
T

Path to
North Berwick Law
5
Finish

500 metres
north
 Route 9 North Berwick and the Law
Start: Scottish Seabird Centre
Finish: North Berwick Law
Distance: 3 km/2 miles (one way)
Time: 1½ - 2 hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements. Steep climb
(178 metres/583 feet) to the top of the Law.

Points of Interest: 1 Scottish Seabird Centre – lots of opportunities for

learning about the amazing wildlife of the Firth of
Forth and its islands.
2 St Andrew's Old Kirk – ancient church with remains
dating from the 12th – 17th centuries surrounded by
medieval graveyard. Recent excavations have identified
even earlier remains.
3 Boat trips – many operators sail from North Berwick
Harbour.
4 Lodge Gardens and Grounds – victorian designed
Public Park.
5 North Berwick Law is the remnant of ancient volcanic
activity and is a typical ‘Crag and Tail’ land formation
as a result of glacial erosion during the Ice Age.
There is also an earlier Iron Age hill fort, a Napoleonic
lookout shelter on the Law, used during World War I.
There are great views from the summit of the Bass
Rock, Craigleith, and the Forth islands; as well as
Tantallon Castle to the east.

Directions: Head south on Victoria Road and Quality Street. Continue

through the Lodge Gardens and Grounds, keeping straight
ahead to emerge on to St Baldred’s Road. Cross the road
and follow the signs for the John Muir Way, straight ahead
and along the path over the tree-covered knoll and
continue to Lochbridge Road. Turn right and at the end of
the road turn left and follow the path to the car park. From
the car park follow the main path to the summit of the
Law. This is a very steep ascent, but well worth the effort
for the views from the top. Please note that there are
hidden drops along the route and that grass slopes can be
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

very slippery – please take care. Retrace your steps to make

your way back to North Berwick and local services.

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service to North Berwick.

Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and drink, and public toilets
in North Berwick.

19
North Berwick

1
3 2
Start
Finish

T D
i 4
6
Gannets
7

Craigleith 250 metres

John Muir Way north
 Route 10 North Berwick Circular
Start and Finish: Scottish Seabird Centre
Distance: 4 km/2.5 miles (one way)
Time: 1 - 1½ hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements, some steep
steps at Rhodes Braes and The Glen.

Points of Interest: 1 Scottish Seabird Centre – Scottish Seabird Centre –

as Route 9.
2 St Andrew's Old Kirk – as Route 9.
3 Boat trips – as Route 9.
4 Milsey Bay – there is evidence here of lava-flow with
enormous deposits of volcanic ash, forming flat red
tuffs that are visible at low tide.
5 The Glen – the ruins of the Mills of Kintreath can be
seen here. These are recorded in a charter of 1434 and
belonged to North Berwick Priory.
6 Castle Hill – thought to be the site of the original De
Vaux castle prior to this Norman family building
Dirleton Castle in 1220. There are great panoramic
views of Milsey Bay, the Bass Rock, Craigleith, and the
Forth islands.
7 Lodge Gardens and Grounds – Victorian designed
Public Park.

Directions: Head east along the pavement adjacent to Melbourne

Road, Marine Parade, and Tantallon Terrace, passing the
rocky shore by Milsey Bay. Just past the Scottish Water
building, climb the steep steps on your right and follow the
path out to Lime Grove housing estate, eventually reaching
the A198. Turn right, continue for approximately 400
metres, and then turn right onto the path down the Glen.
Follow the path through the Glen. Near the end ascend the
steps on your left just beyond the ruins of former mill
buildings. Continue along the path taking a short diversion
to Castle Hill, which offers a fine viewpoint. Shortly after,
cross East Road (B1346) with care to enter the Lodge
Gardens. Exit the Gardens on to Quality Street, and head
back to the Seabird Centre.
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service to North Berwick.

Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and drink, and public toilets
in North Berwick.

21
Bridge over River Tyne at Lynn Rocks, East Linton

T D Start
1 2

T
Traprain Law 3

5 6
Finish
1 kilometre
East Linton north
 Route 11 East Linton to Traprain Law
Start: East Linton
Finish: Traprain Law
Distance: 6 km/4 miles (one way)
Time: 2 – 2½ hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Mostly surfaced paths, and grassy tracks. Steep climb to
Traprain Law (600 feet/180 metres). Undulating terrain
elsewhere on walk.

Points of Interest: 1 East Linton – picturesque village dating from at least

the 12th century.
2 Tyne Bridge – ancient 16th century bridge, part of the
Great Post Road.
3 River Tyne - ducks, herons and dippers may be seen
4 Hailes Castle – ruin of castle, parts of which date
from the 13th century.
5 Traprain Law – location of prehistoric and medieval
settlement. Also associated with St Monenna and St
Kentigern (St Mungo) in the 6th century.
6 Great views of the Tyne estuary, Bass Rock, Craigleith,
and the Forth islands.

Directions: From East Linton's village square turn right along Station
Road towards Haddington. About 50 metres after passing
under the railway bridge look for a sign directing you left
down a narrow road. At the bottom of this road the path
turns right along the river. Continue along the path until
you reach the footbridge signed for Hailes Castle. Continue
to the minor road from where a diversion west may be
made to Hailes Castle. Retrace your steps and follow the
signposted path to the Haddington Road. Turn left along
the road (take care as the road is a busy road) to bring
yourself to the foot of the Law; follow the direction signs
to summit.

Public Transport: Regular bus services to East Linton from Haddington (W)
and Dunbar (E).

Local Services: There are lots of shops and places to eat in East Linton and
information.
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

23
 Belhaven Bay

6 4
3 2
T D
1 i
T D 5
John Muir Way
T D

500 metres
north
 Route 12 Dunbar’s Cliff Top Trail to John Muir Country Park
Start: Dunbar Harbour
Finish: John Muir Country Park
Distance: 8 km/5 miles (one way)
Time: 2 – 2½ hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Mostly well-surfaced paths, grassy tracks, and concrete
promenade with several flights of steps. Stay clear of cliff
edge.

Points of Interest: 1 John Muir Birthplace Museum – learn about John

Muir's adventures and travels all over the globe, and
find out how you can follow in his footsteps.
2 Cromwell and Victoria Harbours, and ‘The Battery’
– take time out to explore the two harbours and ‘The
Battery’ – a defensive structure built in 1781 to defend
the town from privateers.
3 Dunbar Castle – successfully defended in 1338 by
'Black Agnes, Countess of Dunbar'. At Castle Park there
is an Iron Age promontory fort, and an Anglian
stronghold has also been discovered. The castle is now
home to a large colony of kittiwakes.
4 Baird Promenade – paid for and gifted to Dunbar by
the local Baird family in 1893. This is now part of the
Cliff Top Trail.
5 Belhaven Bay – this was the site of Dunbar’s harbour
prior to the 16th century
6 Great views of Belhaven Bay, the Tyne Estuary and
Firth of Forth. Great opportunities to view bird life –
such as grebes, cormorants and eider.

Directions: Starting at Dunbar Harbour the path climbs steeply up

towards the Leisure Centre. After passing in front of the
Leisure Centre follow the signs for the “John Muir Way”. Be
aware that there are lots of steps on this section. Continue
following the John Muir Way along the coast, taking care
around the cliff edge and around the edge of Winterfield
Golf Course to emerge at Shore Road car park by Belhaven
Bay. Continue along the John Muir Way to John Muir
Country Park. Just beyond the public toilets at Linkfield car
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

park leave the John Muir Way and continue around the
headland of Hedderwick Hill. Rejoin the John Muir Way by
the bridge over the Hedderwick Burn and turn left to head
back to the car park. Retrace your steps to make your way
back to Dunbar and local services.

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail services to Dunbar from Edinburgh.
Local Services: Shops and places to eat in Dunbar. Public toilets at Linkfield
John Muir Statue Car Park, Shore Road, Belhaven and Dunbar.
Old Town House,
Dunbar
25
Bilsdean Path

Start

John Muir Way

Finish
2 T 14

5 6
Bilsdean Waterfall 500 metres
north
 Route 13 Thorntonloch to Dunglass on the John Muir Way
Start: Thorntonloch
Finish: Dunglass A1 layby
Distance: 4.4 km/3 miles (one way)
Time: 1 ½ - 2 hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Mostly paths, some steep ascents, shingle and sand
beaches.

Points of Interest: 1 Great views out to the North Sea, and the
Berwickshire cliffs.
Birdwatching – look out for eider and long tailed duck
offshore. Fulmars may fly overhead while at the water
edge you’ll be able to spot oystercatcher, turnstone and
redshank.
2 Bilsdean and Dunglass burns – look out for the
dramatic steep-sided ravines and the waterfall. A
thriving fishing community was also based at Bilsdean.
3 Castledykes Fort – Iron Age fort.
4 Post Road – Dunglass Bridge is a remnant of Great
Post Road from the early 17th century. Bridges further
up the dean date from the 18th – 20th century.
5 Dunglass Collegiate Church – 15th century church
6 Dunglass – a large sycamore tree, close to the remains
of the church, marks the centre of the ancient village.

Directions: From the car park at Thorntonloch, follow the signs for the
John Muir Way to the coast. Turn right (south-eastwards)
along the sandy beach. Look out for the sign for the John
Muir Way taking you up the coastal slope. Continue to
follow the John Muir Way signs, past Bilsdean Waterfall.
After this there is a short section along a shingle beach.
Take care that you are not cut off by the high tide along
the beach section. From the beach, look out for the John
Muir Way sign directing you inland, up through Dunglass
Dean. From here you can either retrace your steps back to
Thorntonloch or continue on to Cockburnspath for public
transport. Cockburnspath can be reached by foot from the
A1 layby along the signed path from the John Muir Way.
Check for public transport (see page 31) for return at the
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

end of the route, or retrace your steps to make your way

back to Thorntonloch.

Public Transport: Bus service to Cockburnspath linking Edinburgh,

Haddington, Dunbar, and Berwick Upon Tweed.
Local Services: Cockburnspath in the Scottish Borders can be reached by
following the signed path from the John Muir Way.

27
Village Pump, Oldhamstocks

John Muir Way

T Start

1 2
Dunglass Collegiate Church

Finish

Oldhamstocks 500 metres

north
 Route 14 Dunglass to Oldhamstocks
Start: Dunglass A1 layby
Finish: Oldhamstocks
Distance: 3.8 km/2.4 miles (one way)
Time: 1 – 1½ hours (one way)
Terrain and path information: Mostly paths, and tracks.

Points of Interest: 1 Dunglass Collegiate Church – as Route 13.

2 Dunglass – as Route 13.
3 Oldhamstocks – lovely village and architecture on the
edge of the Lammermuir Hills.

Directions: Follow the signs for the John Muir Way from the layby,
turning right in a short distance to go under the railway
bridge. Continue to the public road and cross over,
following signs for Dunglass Collegiate Church. Continue
following the estate road round the right hand side of the
ruins of the church, passing a pond on your left after
approximately 200m. Continue to the next junction where
a sign for a public path points left towards Springfield
Farm. Continue beyond Springfield Farm to emerge on the
public road to the north of Oldhamstocks. Unless transport
is pre-arranged retrace your steps to start.

Public Transport: Bus service to Cockburnspath linking Edinburgh,

Haddington, Dunbar, and Berwick Upon Tweed.

Local Services: Cockburnspath in the Scottish Borders can be reached by

following the signed path from the John Muir Way.
Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

29
 Scottish Outdoor
Access Code
Know the Code before
you go . . .
Enjoy Scotland’s outdoors!
Everyone has the right to be on
most land and inland water for
recreation, education and for going
from place to place providing they
act responsibly. These access rights
and responsibilities are explained in
the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.
The key things are:
When you’re in the outdoors:
• take personal responsibility for
your own actions and act safely; Winterfield rock pools, Dunbar
• respect people’s privacy and
peace of mind;
• help land managers and others
to work safely and effectively;
• care for your environment and Useful Safety Tips
take your litter home;
• keep your dog under proper Walking should present no serious problems even to a
control; beginner, provided you follow a few simple rules.
• take extra care if you’re • Don’t take unnecessary risks by tackling overly long or
organising an event or running a difficult routes.
business. • Know where you are or have a map and the ability to
If you’re managing the outdoors: read it.
• respect access rights; • On longer walks, be aware of "escape routes" in case
• act reasonably when asking you need to cut your walk short for whatever reason.
people to avoid land • Make sure you have plenty to eat and drink and are
management operations; adequately dressed for the length of time you’ll be
• work with your local authority out. Wear sturdy footwear.
and other bodies to help • Check the forecast before you set out, always take a
integrate access and land waterproof and keep an eye on the sky.
management; • Make sure someone knows where you are and when
• respect rights of way and to expect you back
customary access.
Road Safety
Follow the advice in the Highway Code: use the
pavement if there is one and safe crossings wherever
Find out more possible, help drivers to see you, and where there is no
by visiting pavement keep to the right, facing oncoming traffic,
www.outdooraccess-scotland.com crossing to the other side before sharp right-hand bends.
or phoning your local Scottish Take special care on country roads with no pavements
Natural Heritage office. where traffic may be moving very fast.
30
Getting to East Lothian
and public transport
Rail
FirstScotRail services run from Edinburgh to
Musselburgh, Wallyford, Prestonpans,
Longniddry, Drem and North Berwick.
www.firstgroup.com/scotrail
GNER [www.gner.co.uk] and Virgin
[www.virgintrains.co.uk] serve Dunbar Rail
Station
National Rail Enquiries:
Telephone 08457 48 49 50 or visit
www.nationalrail.co.uk

Bus
A variety of bus services link Edinburgh along
the coast to Musselburgh, Prestonpans, and
North Berwick, or inland to Tranent,
Haddington, and Dunbar. Bus services also go
from North Berwick to Dunbar via East Linton
and to Haddington via the Museum of Flight.
A bus service also operates between
Edinburgh and Berwick Upon Tweed, linking
Haddington, Dunbar, Dunglass and
Cockburnspath.
Eve Coaches www.eveinfo.co.uk
First Bus www.firstgroup.com
Lothian Transport www.lothianbuses.co.uk
Perryman’s Buses www.perrymansbuses.co.uk
Traveline Scotland provides a telephone
service for public transport enquiries
available by calling 0870 608 2 608. Lines are
open daily from 7am to 10pm, 7 days a week.
Or visit www.travelinescotland.com
By Air
Edinburgh Airport is 8 miles (12 km) west of
the city. Glasgow, Glasgow Prestwick and
Newcastle airports are also all within easy
reach of East Lothian. For information on
Main UK airports visit - www.baa.com
Where to Stay and Eat
There is a wealth of hotels, guesthouses,
caravan or campsites to cater for your
particular needs when visiting East Lothian.
For practical advice, ideas and information
about exploring Scotland click on
www.visitscotland.com where you can also
choose and book accommodation;
alternatively, you may wish to email -
info@visitscotland.com or phone
+44 00 1506 832121. Look out for the
“Walkers Welcome” logo denoting
accommodation committed to providing
services for the walker. This may include
drying facilities, facilities for cleaning boots
and outdoor clothing, packed lunches and
providing information.
East Lothian is also home to many food and
drink businesses offering a wide variety of
local and seasonal produce.
Visit
www.foodanddrinkeastlothian.com/home.asp
for further information on locally produced
East Lothian food and drink.

31
 Useful Information
East Lothian Council
www.eastlothian.gov.uk
Outdoor Access Officers
01620 827671 (East) 01620 827419 (West)
Heritage Officer
01620 82 7158
John Muir Birthplace Museum
01368 861951 www.jmbt.org.uk
Local History & Promotions Officer
01620 828209
Outdoors
Scottish Outdoor Access Code
0131 654 2466 www.outdooraccess-scotland.com Scottish Ornithologists' Club (SOC)
John Muir Award
01620 829904 www.johnmuiraward.org
Keep Scotland Beautiful
01786 471333 www.keepscotlandbeautiful.org
North Sea Cycle Route
www.northsea-cycle.com
North Sea Trail
www.northseatrail.org
Ramblers' Association Scotland
01577 861222 www.ramblers.org.uk/scotland
ScotWays, the Scottish Rights of Way
and Access Society
0131 558 1222 www.scotways.com
Sustrans Scotland
0131 539 8122 www.sustrans.co.uk
Heritage
Council For Scottish Archaeology
0131 247 4119 www.scottisharchaeology.org.uk
Edinburgh & Lothians Greenspace Trust
0131 654 1933 www.egbt.org.uk
Historic Scotland
0131 668 8600 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
John Muir Trust
0131 554 0114 www.jmt.org
National Trust for Scotland
0131 243 9300 www.nts.org.uk
Scottish Natural Heritage
01463 725000, 0131 654 2466 www.snh.org.uk
01875 871330 www.the-soc.zenwebhosting.com
Woodland Trust Scotland
01764 662554 www.woodland-trust.org.uk
Tourism
East Lothian Attractions
www.visiteastlothian.org
East Lothian Food & Drink
www.foodanddrinkeastlothian.com
Golf East Lothian
www.golfeastlothian.com
VisitScotland
0845 2255121 www.visitscotland.org
Weather
The Meteorological Office
www.meto.gov.uk

Photography by:
Nick Aitken, George Mole, Nick Morgan, Duncan Priddle, Colin D Read,
Scottish Cultural Resources Access Network (SCRAN), Scottish Seabird Centre,
VisitScotland and East Lothian Council

The maps in this brochure are reproduced from Ordnance Survey material with the
permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office.
© Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to
prosecution or civil proceedings. OS Licence 100023381

32
Tank traps, Gullane

Kittiwakes, Dunbar Castle

Rock pool, Yellowcraig

36
Longniddry Beach

www.eastlothian.gov.uk/northseatrail www.northseatrail.org
The North Sea Trail/NAVE Nortrail project ★★★
★ ★
is partly funded by the EU through the ★ ★
Interreg IIIB North Sea Programme ★ ★
★★★

Front Cover Photos:

Top row: Bass Rock; Foxglove; Seton Collegiate Church; Bilsdean coast
Second Row: Fisherrow Harbour; St Mary’s Church, Haddington;
Wallyford Sculpture Trail; Common Blue butterfly
Front cover main photo: John Muir Country Park, Dunbar
Bilsdean path