Instruction Manual for 9018

Quick Hoops™ High Tunnel Bender
Copyright © 2010 Johnny’s Selected Seeds. All rights reserved. 955 Benton Ave., Winslow, ME 04901  877-564-6697  

Congratulations on your purchase of the Quick Hoops™ High Tunnel Bender! You can now create your own hoophouses at a much lower cost than pre-fabricated kits! You will be able to extend your growing season and increase both crop quality and yield by protecting your crops from wind, rain, hail, insects, and disease pressure. The advantages to protected cropping are numerous and you are on your way to more profitable crop production.

June 2010, Caterpillar Tunnel trial at  Johnny’s research farm, Albion, ME 

This manual has two components: First, we discuss bending hoophouse ‘bows’ with the Quick Hoops™ High Tunnel Bender, then we will go through the steps needed to build your own walk-in style caterpillar tunnel. While the bender is not in any way limited to that style of house, it is the style that we chose to build and trial at our Albion farm in the summer of 2010. We chose caterpillar tunnels, because we see them as an increasingly popular style and a low cost option for growers who would like to expand their protected acreage in the most efficient manner, while at the same time, minimizing their investment to do so. Many of the images shown here illustrate the construction of the four 100 ft. tunnels at our farm and the smaller 40 ft. tunnel that we built for the Maine Organic Farmers & Gardeners Association (MOFGA) and then showcased in our demo garden at the 2010 Common Ground Fair. 1-3/8” top rail for chain link fence is the recommended material that this bender has been designed to bend. There is more information about that and where to obtain it and all needed materials at the end of this manual.

.Contents:    Curved bender Lever bar (for “finishing” the bend) Two 1/4" x 5" lag screws for mounting to wood surfaces and two 1/4" x 4-1/2" carriage bolts, nuts, and washers for mounting to metal surfaces Detailed instructions

L Le ev ve err  B Ba arr  

B Be en nd de err  

The Quick HoopsTM Benders may be mounted to any solid surface, such as a workbench, a picnic table, hay wagon, etc. It may be lag-screwed or thru-bolted into place. 5/16” mounting holes are provided on benders. Screws, bolts, etc. are included. By securing the bender in a fixed position, and pulling the tubing around the bender, the operator can maintain precise control of the tubing being bent.

Wherever it is mounted, it is important to have both enough room to accommodate the infeed and outfeed of pipe, as well as some type of support at the outfeed end about ¾” above the mounting surface. This will prevent ‘corkscrewing’ and ensure that the hoophouse bows created are in a single plane. This is accomplished most easily with something similar to 1 x 4” slats (actually ¾” thick), illustrated above.1” plywood or something similar would also be adequate.

Site selection:
We recommend taking a look at High Tunnels - Using Low-Cost Technology to Increase Yields, Improve Quality and Extend the Season, a 74 page reference guide, by By Ted Blomgren and Tracy Frisch and distributed by the University of Vermont Center for Sustainable Agriculture. You can purchase written copies or download free ones from this link. We found this to be a tremendous resource for our trial work. It has a section dedicated specifically to site selection for your high tunnel.

Lever Bar  8. 4. Do not bend past the end. and bend the pipe all the way around the bender until the pipe just touches the end of the bender closest to you. Pull back and bend only half way around the bender. Repeat for all other unbent pipes. Insert the unmarked end of a pipe into the holding strap at the end of the bender as shown. 3  . 3. or the arc you create will not be smooth. insert the lever bar into the female end or over the swaged end of the unbent end of the pipe. Stop. pull back as if on a long oar (do not push). Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the point where the lever bar meets the pipe is even with the closest end of the bender. 7. if bending becomes too difficult. This will leave a straight portion that will easily slide into the ground post later on. 5. 2. Mark these pipes with spray paint or permanent marker on one end so that half are marked on the male or ‘swaged’ end and half on the female end. and move it through the holding strap about half the length of the bender itself. insert just past the swage to prevent canting or kinking that portion of the pipe. 6. This effectively makes the pipe longer and will instantly give you more leverage for bending the rest of the pipe.Bending the pipes: 1. If this is the swaged end. After determining how many bows your high tunnel will have. always inserting the unmarked end of the pipe (regardless whether swaged or not) into the bender holding strap first. Depending on the orientation of the pipe. set aside twice that many pipes to be bent. With a smooth motion. 9. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until about three feet of unbent pipe remain beyond the closest end of the bender or. Release tension until the pipe is loose in the holding strap.

because they held their edge much longer. because having preloaded stress on the bow when you compress it into 12 ft. 3. This could be the ground. 4. Insert the unmarked swaged end of one bent pipe into the unmarked female end of the other. but well worth it. Find a flat surface on which to lay two bent pipes. You will notice that the bow is 13-15 ft. 5. drill through both pipes with a ¼” metal bit. spaced ground posts will make the structure stronger. We happened to have a spare greenhouse table that worked very well.Assembling the bows: 1. We found cobalt bits to be a little more costly. The bow is complete. 4  . Thru-bolt with one ¼" x 1-3/4" hex head bolt and ¼” nylock lock nut. a hay wagon. wide. That is perfect. etc. About 1” from the end of the outer female end. 2. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the rest of the pre-bent pipes.

2. etc. vertical ground posts. Cut them in half with a band saw. Determine how many bows your high tunnel will have. 3. You will need twice as many of these as bows. Make a mark 12” in from the end with the hole you just drilled. through both sides. 4. 2.Creating ground posts: 1. and lock-washers. reciprocating saw. vertical chain link fence posts. 11”  Soil Level  36”  Making up the lacing bolts: 1. You could use many different types of connectors here like threaded hooks. Pre-drill a ¼” hole 11” from one end of each 3 ft section of ground post. This will be a guide for insertion into the ground. or hack saw (if not doing too many) to create two 1-5/8 x 3 ft. nuts. and they worked well. 5  . Drill in the center. we added ¼” tubing to prevent the lacing from chafing on the threads. These are simply what we chose to use. Purchase the same number of 1-5/8 x 6 ft. Because the bolts were threaded fully. We made ours out of 1/4" x 6" carriage bolts.

 between  bows because we  wanted to build a  strong tunnel. and layout of your structure. This  could be as close or as  far (within reason) as  you want.                                                                                                   40 ft.  (3) The width of the tunnel  will be 12 ft. (1)                                                                                                                                                  (4) Distances A and B must  be equal for the tunnel  to squared off and be a  true rectangular shape.  In this example.  (2) Pick a distance between  bows that will divide  into that number. (3)  6  . For those that are building a caterpillar tunnel.                                                     5 ft. the red and green lines indicate individual pieces of lacing.Designing your structure: Use the following diagram to help determine the size. We  chose 5 ft. C3 C4                                                                                                 A (4)  B (4)  Notes:  (1) Determine the desired  overall length of tunnel. (2)  C1 C2                                                 12 ft. our  tunnel is 40 ft. spacing. long.

                          d.  e. Set corner posts C3 and C4. Set the first  corner post C1.  i.    h. Adjust the gauge to the right   or left until A and B are equal.  a. Measure    out from  C2 the desired  tunnel length.  A > B  Tunnel is  crooked. Adjust the un‐notched  end of the gauge to that  measurement spot. Take measurements A and B above.                  C3            C4    A  B    Tunnel forms  a perfect  rectangle. Measure out from  C1 the desired  tunnel length.    A = B  Tunnel is  squared off.  C2            C1      7    C2            C1  .  C2  Start here.     C1                  C1  C2  g.  f. Using the gauge.    b.        12 ft. set the  second corner post C2. Lay the notched end  of the gauge at that    measurement  spot. A  B  c.Hints on setting the corner ground posts: Use the following diagrams to help you set the corner posts in a perfect rectangle.

mulch-laying. drive it in place. create one gauge for setting posts by simply cutting a small notch in one end. plowing. to avoid having to resort to smaller equipment to accomplish these tasks later. Create gauges: a. gauge you made in Step 2 against post 1.Site preparation and setting the ground posts: 1. b. Using one 2” x 4” x 12’ piece of wood. b. Prepare the footprint of the tunnel as if you would open soil in a field. Cut 1-3/4” slots with centers 6” from each end of the board. apart. Using a long tape. rotovating. e. Lay the notched end of the gauge down at that spot. to prevent adjustment later. Swing the opposite end the gauge to where you would like post 2 to be. before the tunnel is erected. Place the first corner post (1 pictured above) in the desired location with the pre-drilled hole closest to the top. d. This will be the gauge between ground posts for a single bow. Use another 2” x 4” that is a foot longer than the spacing you want for your bows. measure out from post 2 to where the opposite end of the tunnel will be. Set the four corner ground posts first. etc. Do as much of the tilling. Mark approximately where you expect to put post 3. this was 40 ft. This will be the gauge for the distance between bows. Place the notched end of the 12 ft. Try to have one of the pre-drilled holes facing toward the outside of the tunnel and one facing in. c. In our case. until the pre-drilled hole is an inch or so above the soil surface. 8 . Insert the mushroom-shaped ground post driver (JSS # 9482) into the top of the post and drive it in to the mark with a sledge-hammer. The bows in our trials were set 5 ft. Then measure out from post 1 to where post 4 will be. 3 4 1 2 a. 3. Holding the new ground post against the un-notched end. 2.

    T h iii s     iii s     n o r m a lll     a n d     t o     b e     e x p e c t e d .. clamps.f. Pull it tight and secure the other end to post 4.. These measurements should be the same for the tunnel to be square and true.     a f t e r r e p e a t e d u s e T h s s n o r m a a n d t o b e e x p e c t e d a f t e r r e p e a t e d u s e T h s s n o r m a a n d t o b e e x p e c t e d 5. or something similar. h. 6. Then measure from corner post 2 to the unnotched end of the gauge. i. T h e t o p o t h e G r o u n d P o s t     D r iii v e r     w iii lll lll     d e r m s o m e w h a t f T h e t o p o f t h e G r o u n d P o s t D r v e r w d e fo o r m s o m e w h a t T h e   t o p   o f   t h e   G r o u n d   P o s t D r v e r w d ef o r m   s o m e w h a t   a f t e r     r e p e a t e d     u s e . Set corner posts 3 and 4.. 9 . Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the other side of the tunnel. Run the long tape from corner post 1 to corner post 4. Adjust the un-notched end of the gauge to that measurement spot. Adjust the gauge to the right or left (lengthwise) until the diagonal lengths are equal. Secure with duct tape. Measure from corner post 1 to the notch in the 12 ft gauge. 7.. g. The ground posts are now set. set the rest of the posts for this side of the tunnel. This will serve as a gauge as well as a straight line for setting the other posts. Use the smaller wooden gauge and the tape as guides. J S S # 9 4 8 2 J S S # 9 4 8 2 J S S   # 9 4 8 2   G r o u n d   P o s t   D r iii v e r     G r o u n d   P o s t   D r v e r Ground Post D r v e r 4. Secure one end to post 1.

Transport the first “end wall” bow to the furthest corner posts and insert to the marks made in step 1. With a pipe wrench or similar tool. This will be used as a general guide for insertion into the ground posts. It is now time for the tunnel to take shape! Make a mark on each of the bows about 13” from the end. 2.8. 10 . Erecting the bows: 1. rotate any ground posts as needed so that the pre-drilled holes are perpendicular to the length of the tunnel (facing out and in).

3. 11 . Repeat step 2 for the rest of the bows.

Loosen the nuts on the crossconnectors as much as possible. JSS #9542 Cross‐connectors  (sold in pairs)  12 . without taking them completely off.4. You may also thrubolt the ridge pole to the bows if desired. The procedure following discusses installation with JSS part# 9542 Cross-connectors. Slip one over the top center of each bow as shown. Loosely attach the ridge pole. c. Slide a section of 1-3/8” top rail through the last two (or three) crossconnectors on one end of the tunnel shown. b. a.

loosen them if possible and/or spray with water to lubricate. Repeat c above with swaged ends fitting into the next pipe’s female end. but it should run smoothly from end to end. 13 . somewhere around the middle of the swaged area of each pipe (about 3” from the end of the outer female end). e. 5. drill through both pipes with a ¼” metal bit. Stand back and view the structure critically from the sides and very ends. f. Repeat for all points where the ridge pole sections come together. Adjust the bows up or down within the ground posts until the structure is symmetrical and straight to the eye. It does not in any way need to be level. Ensure that you can still see the metal of the bows through the pre-drilled holes in the ground posts. until they are run the entire length of the tunnel. Then thru-bolt with one ¼" x 1-3/4" hex head bolt and ¼” nylock lock nut. Adjust the cross-connectors from side to side until it runs straight down the length of the tunnel. the ridge pole is solid. You will see some bows higher than others. If you find there is too much friction when inserting the pipes in the crossconnectors. Similar to the bow construction. 6.d. At this point.

Move to the next bow and using the tape measure as your guide. b. Allow the weight of the tape to hold it taught on the opposite end. e. We found that a battery-operated ratchet driver with a 7/16” socket was the ticket for this job. 8. Run the long tape measure the length of the tunnel on top of the center of the bows. for us. Install purlins (optional). Cut off any excess ridge pole protruding beyond the end of the end wall bow with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. Tighten cross-connector at the end wall where you started. 14 . d. You may want purlins for trellising vine crops such as cucumbers and tomatoes. Note: Purlins will make the structure considerably stronger. which will of course need to be emptied after storms. Secure the end of the tape measure to the crossconnector at that end. c. Tighten the cross-connector. move the bow so that it is exactly the same distance from the end wall bow as the spacing of the ground posts – 5 ft.7. a. but will allow water to pool in the plastic above them. Repeat until all cross-connectors have been tightened. The following procedure will keep your bows uniform. Tighten the nuts on all the cross-connectors.

Immediately slide a new 13/8” straight pipe into the cross-connectors so that the female end is facing out. f. Run the purlin all the way to the end wall. installing crossconnectors. c. Repeat a through i above. for the opposite side. Tighten the nuts on the end wall crossconnector. Attach the end to the cross-connector you tightened in step e above. Tighten the nuts on the cross-connector. Repeat steps a & b above.a. b. and hang the reel over the opposite end wall’s crossconnector. tightening crossconnector bolts. i. Immediately slide the piece of scrap 1-3/8” straight pipe you cut off the ridge pole into the crossconnector. j. Slip a cross-connector over the bow at that point. Continue down the tunnel as you did for the ridge pole. removing the piece of scrap at the very end. Cut off any excess ridge pole protruding beyond the end of the end wall bow with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. and thrubolting the straight pipes together as you go. adjusting the spacing. Slide a crossconnector over the next bow as well e. Go to the opposite end of the tunnel. Hang a plumb bob (or any weight with a string – we used a fishing sinker). from one side of the end wall directly over the point where you’d like your crop row to be located. 15 . Move the tape measure down from the ridge. d. h. g.

Install lacing bolts as shown with bolt head facing the outside of the structure and tighten. d. 16 . f. Cut off any excess purlin protruding beyond the end of the end wall bow with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. g. Drill through one side and stop. Install duct tape over the ends of the ridge pole and purlins (if installed) and wrap the tops of each ground post to prevent plastic from getting torn on any metal burrs that may be present.9. c. b. e. Using the pre-drilled holes in the ground posts as a guide drill through the inserted portion of each bow. Then run the drill through both holes to ensure that bolt will pass easily through. Start on the other side and drill through. a. Slip a large box-end wrench over each lacing bolts and bend it downward at a 45 degree angle as shown.

at about a 45 degree angle. and ended up working extremely well. 1. Framing is complete! Covering the tunnel: Post Pounder There are many options and methods for covering your tunnel and creating access and ventilation points. We are discussing only one design in this manual – Caterpillar or Walk-in style. They were handy at the time we built the tunnels. We encourage you to build whatever structure suits your needs. since we have experience with and have tested this design. We use these at our research farm to trellis tomatoes. using a heavy cylindrical post pounder. Obtain four T-posts from your local farm supply or home improvement store. drive two T-posts. side-byside. rigid end-walls. Drive as close together as possible. including wiggle wire. roll down sides. etc. we are presenting it here. As shown above.h. Here are the steps we went through. with the ribs facing toward the other T-post. T‐Post Ribs  17 . 2. board strapping. roll up sides. However. 5 ft from each end of the tunnel.

gather the end of the plastic in a big pony tail. 7. Time for plastic! Your greenhouse film should be 20 ft wide. Take care not to snag it on the ribs of the T-bars.3. Then. Secure one end of the plastic with weights. unless you have many hands to help. wrap it around one of the T-posts and back through again. Twist the pony tail. When the plastic is centered laterally. And repeat steps 6 through 9. 5. Tie the end of the pony tail with parachute cord or rope to prevent it from uncurling. Start in the center. or the roll itself if it’s long. insert the pony tail between them and slide it as close to the bottom as possible. ensure you have at least 7-8 ft beyond each end of the tunnel. 8. with the plastic draped smoothly over the end and even laterally. While still holding the pony tail. except that this time. and worked out to each side. but smoothly over it. pull it lengthwise as tightly as you can. 4. 18 . Then tie the T-posts tightly together. At the opposite end. 11. Unroll the plastic. people. when you gather the plastic and insert it into the T-posts. 10. pulling the plastic snug as you go. You should have what looks like the end of a very large bread wrapper in your hands when you are done. Saving this for morning is usually a good idea. spreading it up and over the tunnel. 9. clamps. and must be longer than the house by at least 15 ft. It is much easier to do this when there is no wind. and with two helpers spreading the T-posts apart. Go to the opposite end of the tunnel. At this point the tunnel should have plastic tied off at the ends and draping loosely. release the T-posts and compress them onto the plastic. 6.

just like tightening the lacings on foot wear. d. starting at the same bow. The following is a two-person operation with each person positioned on opposite sides of the tunnel. There are many lacing materials that you could use. Tensioning: a. Refer to the diagram on page 6 for the pattern. While holding some light tension on the cord. d. throw the spool back over the tunnel. and we highly recommend it. 1. c. 19 . Repeat steps b & c until you reach the bow at the other end of the tunnel. b. Temporarily tie off the cord on the last corner lacing bolt on that end. and with one person keeping tension. We tested military parachute cord. above. Repeat steps a through c. test multi-strand core and a smooth over braid which slid over the plastic effortlessly. 2. c. b. Pick one of the cords.Lacing the tunnel: Parts of this process are not unlike lacing your boots. It tested very well for us. It has a high tensile 550 Lb. which has great availability online and is low cost. without one breakage. working back & forth down the tunnel until you reach the end. or similar strong twine material of your choice to lacing bolt on one of the corners of the tunnel. e. Tie the end of a spool of parachute cord. for the other cord. Start in the same positions you started at in step 1. but on the opposite side. Tie off permanently on the last corner lacing bolt. Lacing: a. starting at the same bow.a. while the other cinches up the cord. Repeat steps a through d. but on the opposite side. Throw the whole spool over to the other side of the tunnel and loop under the next bow’s lacing bolt.

Tunnel construction is complete! 20 .3.

grasp the bottom edge of the plastic between the first and second bows. 21 . 4. by simply lifting the plastic up. Repeat down the entire length of the tunnel. and raise it to the desired ventilation level. Move to the gap between the next two bows and repeat. 2. Starting at one end of the tunnel. 1. Repeat 1 through 4 for the opposite side of the tunnel to ensure good air circulation.Access and venting: Access and venting is accomplished the same way. 3.

beyond the point of adjustment by tensioning the lacing. the plastic expands substantially. Early Spring and late Fall . We found that in the intense heat of the summer. 22 . They kept the now loose plastic perfectly suspended at any height we desired.5. b. Summer – Pretty much opened all the time. They were about $1 each at a home improvement store and well worth the investment. This design relies on friction to hold the plastic at a given ventilation height. c. day and night for maximum warming.You will generally want to leave the tunnel sides fully closed. vented a foot or two high during the mid day. except for stormy days. Seasonal operation: a. Shade cloth is also an option for protecting crops from summer heat. To avoid having to readjust the pony tails within the T-posts. we found that spring clamps were the answer.Closed at night. Mid-to-late Spring and early-to-mid Fall . We also found that we could use them for extra security to hold the plastic to the bottom of the bows during storms.

to prevent wind from wreaking havoc with it. Winter – Layup during the winter couldn’t be easier. allowing a super early start on the season. the plastic can be rotated back into place and used to melt the snow. Simply empty this water after every storm to prevent damage to the tunnel or crops. e. Simply rotate the plastic all the way over to one side and leave it there. Rain – Rainwater will inevitably collect in the bunched-up plastic (if left vented during a storm) and in the plastic above the purlins. In early spring. Tying it around it to every other bow is a good idea.d. We were amazed at just how much water these structures could support. Rain Water Rain  Water  Rain Water 23 . They are very strong.

Thanks! 24 . can also be acquired either locally or online. The two main components come from chain link fencing. etc. Various connectors. nuts. This can be acquired at your local home improvement store or fencing store.Acquiring materials: This system was designed to construct high tunnels from mostly locally available components. We have provided 1‐3/8” top rail for bows. We sincerely hope you find this product and manual useful and that they help you become a more successful grower. and purlins  examples of a cost calculator on the following two 1‐5/8” fence posts  pages that for ground posts  should give you some idea of what your tunnel may cost. All other items shown here may be purchased from Johnny’s.  a couple ridge pole. A downloadable version of this MS Excel spreadsheet will be available for use at Johnnyseeds.

66 * * * * Price $69.boltdepot. Ft. Must have a minimum of 2" of threaded. Spec's Length 40 feet Spacing 5 feet # Purlins 2 plus the ridge pole Width 12 feet 8.Caterpillar Tunnel Calculator ***Fill in the items in red below and the calculator will do the rest.80 $ 1/4"‐20 x 1.05 $0.10 $2.00 $149.10 $ 1/4" nylock lock nut 2764 18 each 1/4" lock washers 1 1 each www.00 # Segments Must be an even number # Bows 9 Square Feet Cost / Sq.41 $9.95 $4.00 $9.41 $9.00 Ext $69. 480 $1.05 $4.00 $149. * Estimations.52 $24.315" Pipe.boltdepot.75" hex head bolt for bows 2624 21 each www.parachute‐cord.*** Dimensions.boltdepot.  Total Cost $797 .00 $ 1/4"‐20 x 6" carriage bolt for lacing connection** 4 feet Local home improvement store 1/4"  inner diameter polyethylene tubing 2648 42 each www. ** Fully threaded is best.05 $0.95 $0. pkg of 2 198 21 each www.05 $38.86 $ 1000 ft. 20 x 65 ft.12 $0.28 $24.95 $5.95 $17.00 * * * * * * * * * Part# Qty Unit Source Description 9018 1 each Johnny's Selected Seeds Quick Hoops High Tunnel Bender 18 each Local home improvement store 10 ft length of 1‐3/8" 3/8  fence top rail for bows 4 each Local home improvement store 10 ft length of 1‐3/8" fence top rail for ridge pole 8 each Local home improvement store 10 ft length of 1‐3/8" fence top rail for purlins 9 each Local home improvement store 6 ft length of 1‐5/8" fence post for ground posts 9482 1 each Johnny's Selected Seeds Ground post driver 9542 14 each Johnny's Selected Seeds Cross Connector for 1.boltdepot.41 $10.64 $75.45 $26. spool of white parachute cord for lacing T‐post anchor for ends 4 each Local home improvement store 1 each Local home improvement store Post pounder (for T‐post) 9630 1 each Johnny's Selected Seeds Tufflite IV Greenhouse Film.52 $1.28 $92.38 $37.boltdepot.315" x 1.24 $0.96 $ 1/4"‐20 hex nut 3024 42 each www. Prices will vary and do not include shipping costs or tax.27 $0.30 $2.95 $83.

Caterpillar Tunnel Calculator ***Fill in the items in red below and the calculator will do the rest.  Total Cost $1.05 $0.boltdepot. Prices will vary and do not include shipping costs or tax.00 $395.45 $26. ** Fully threaded is best.10 $38. 1200 $ 1/4"‐20 x 6" carriage bolt for lacing connection** 9 feet Local home improvement store 1/4"  inner diameter polyethylene tubing 2648 62 each www.05 * * * * Price $69. * 1000 ft.315" Pipe.boltdepot.05 $38.00 $ 1/4"‐20 x 1. Spec's Length 100 feet Spacing 5 feet # Purlins 0 plus the ridge pole Width 12 feet 20.88 $24.00 $286. Must have a minimum of 2" of threaded.95 $65.95 $0.12 $0.95 $17.*** Dimensions.75" hex head bolt for bows 31 2624 31 each www.95 $5.28 $24.41 $10.parachute‐cord.05 $0.41 $9. pkg of 2 198 each www.22 $94.10 $ 1/4"‐20 hex nut 3024 62 each www.55 $11.95 $4.boltdepot.boltdepot.10 $ 1/4" nylock lock nut 2764 42 each www.315" x 1.27 $ 1/4" lock washers 1 1 each www. spool of white parachute cord for lacing T‐post anchor for ends 4 each Local home improvement store 1 each Local home improvement store Post pounder (for T‐post) 9644 1 each Johnny's Selected Seeds Tufflite IV Greenhouse Film.00 # Segments Must be an even number # Bows 21 Square Feet Cost / Sq. Ft.00 Ext $69.boltdepot.80 $26.72 $1.258 . 20 x 125 ft.45 $3.16 $3.00 $9.24 $0.34 $2.00 * * * * * * * * * Part# Qty Unit Source Description 9018 1 each Johnny's Selected Seeds Quick Hoops High Tunnel Bender 42 each Local home improvement store 10 ft length of 1‐3/8" 3/8  fence top rail for bows 10 each Local home improvement store 10 ft length of 1‐3/8" fence top rail for ridge pole 0 each Local home improvement store 10 ft length of 1‐3/8" fence top rail for purlins 21 each Local home improvement store 6 ft length of 1‐5/8" fence post for ground posts 9482 1 each Johnny's Selected Seeds Ground post driver 9542 11 each Johnny's Selected Seeds Cross Connector for 1.41 $9.00 $286.