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RAISING THE BAR

108 Above: Jardins dEden soaps

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Family rms using traditional techniques are keeping Lebanons traditional soapmaking heritage alive and creating products with 21st-century appeal, reports Karen Munnis

In an era where we have become increasingly conscious of labels and what we put in and on our bodies, it is no wonder that botanical beauty ingredients are continuing to gain popularity and one of Lebanons oldest traditional products, handmade, all-natural soap, has been enjoying a resurgence. Steeped in history and created using techniques passed down from generations of craftsmen, this is a beauty product that is still very much relevant today. Although handmade soap can be found throughout Lebanon, the industrys hub is in Tripoli and dates back to the ancient Crusader era. Traditionally, soaps were symbols of purity, given to brides in their wedding trousseaux. During the 15th century,

under Mamluk rule, the industry ourished with the construction of the Khn as-Sboun (Soap Khan), a large structure in the centre of the city that was originally built as a barracks but was abandoned and then turned into a soap factory. Lebanese soap is known as saboon baladi and is traditionally made from olive oil. There are two types: green, made from olive stone pulp, and white, made from olive oil. Traditionally, the oil was taken from a familys own olive tree and mixed with salt and soda in a massive stone tub for up to six hours. The mixture was then cut and shaped while still warm and imprinted with the family name or with symbols indicating the quality of the oil or the skill of the craftsman.

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The result is an all-natural, mild soap traditionally believed to benet conditions such as eczema, dry skin and dandru . As the industry has gradually diminished, the importance of maintaining these ancient family traditions has grown, and family recipes and soap-making techniques are still being passed from generation to generation. Hadani Ditmars, an author and journalist who visits Lebanon regularly, cherishes the soaps made in Arab Salim, south Lebanon. I love the soaps produced by the womens cooperative set up by an elder who wanted to revive the art of traditional soap making and teach young women this craft, says Ditmars. It is traditional soap made with olive oil, laurel leaves and lavender, with no added chemicals, made using century old recipes. It makes your skin feel soft, silky and nourished.
Above: Jardins dEden founders Rima, Zeina and Zahira Nazer

In Tripoli, one of the oldest names in soapmaking is Badr Hassoun; the family has been making soap for over eight centuries. Following a $20m investment this year, the current owner is moving his factory from Tripoli to Koura to build an environmental village producing traditional soaps and natural cosmetic products. Beirut soap boutique Ambrah, a family business since the company was launched in 1875, is located in the Badaro district of the city. The boutiques cold-pressed olive oil soaps are infused with herbs such as rosemary, thyme and even sulphur, believed to be a natural remedy for acne and psoriasis. Lebanese sisters Rima, Zeina and Zahira Nazer, founders of the Jardins dEden soap brand, learned about soapmaking from their father Samir Nazer, who was a highly-regarded matre savonnier (master soapmaker) in Tripoli.

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Family firms are keeping Lebanons soapmaking tradition alive and relevant to the 21st century

The Nazer sisters launched Jardins dEden in 2011 in his memory. We are renewing the family tradition and keeping our fathers dream alive, says Rima Nazer. The Nazer sisters use soap recipes inherited from their father, and combine his traditional techniques, such as extracting oils from orange blossom water and rosewater, with more advanced ingredients such as aromatherapy oils. Their soaps are available from stockists that include Londons famous Harrods department store. It is a call to return to nature, drawing inspiration from 21st-century urban aesthetics and our familys traditional artisan skills, says Rima Nazer. Thanks to families such as the Nazers, Lebanons soapmaking tradition remains very much alive and able to meet the demands of the 21st century jardinsdeden.co.uk

Above (clockwise from top le): Badr Hassoun soaps; olives destined to be made into natural soap; soaps from the Ambrah heritage skincare brand

PHOTO: VICTOR M VICENTE SELVAS