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TEAMTALK

ARTISTS’ HAVEN
‘Om Swastiastu...’ Bali is a gorgeous island that is brimming with talented artists. Whether it’s wood carvers, painters, musicians, dancers or photographers, we’ve encountered many artistically gifted people here and continue to be blown away by them on a daily basis. Whether they are Balinese or hail from beyond Bali and have been drawn in by the island’s allure, there’s no denying that they collectively capture and create countless magical moments. Throughout the past year we have regularly featured articles on traditional Balinese dance, so in this edition we chose to focus more on paintings and photography. Check out LIFESTYLE & LEISURE to see our round up of noteworthy art spaces and museums in Bali, and turn to PROFILE & PORTRAIT to read our interview with artist Arin Sunaryo (the young Indonesian artist has works hanging in the Guggenheim New York). Also don’t forget to check out our coverage on a handful of Jakarta’s famous street artists in CAPITAL CORNER. Additionally, we share with you our visit to Seniman Coffee in Ubud, a coffee studio with eye-catching furniture and glassware that they’ve designed themselves from recycled items. These talented folks have been instrumental to the creation of the first Ubud Public Arts Festival – find our snapshots from the event in this month’s SIGHTS & SOUNDS. We realize that our coverage only skims the surface of what’s available on the island, but we hope it helps to whet your appetite and encourages you to explore and get involved with the local arts scene yourself. Have fun and keep creating, readers! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

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CONTRIBUTORS

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1 Bayu Rahanatha is a lecturer at Udayana University and a Marketing Communications specialist. He also has his own business in tourism but still finds time to continue his writing hobby. 2 Anggara Mahendra is a Balinese photographer based in Denpasar. He is currently working on personal documentary projects related to cultural, social and environmental issues.

3 Paul V. Walters is the best selling author of two novels, Final Diagnosis and Blowback. The third in this trilogy, Counterpoint, is due for release in November 2013. 4 Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. www.alcibbum-photography.com 5 Anne Dewi is a writer based in Jakarta who loves traveling and trying out new places to eat in Indonesia’s capital.

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BALI & BEYOND
General Manager Senior Editor Editor Editorial Advisors Graphic Advisor Graphic Designer Web & Graphic Designer Advertising & MarComm. Manager Advertising Sales Executive GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id MUTIA ARINI ADISOMA mutia@baliandbeyond.co.id ARIKO AHMAD ariko@baliandbeyond.co.id A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS WENIAR PRAMESTI PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id NOVENTY ARIANI venty@baliandbeyond.co.id MEE WAURAN mee@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor Accounting Staff GA & Personnel Adm Distribution A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id I GUSTI AYU MADE RINA ADIARI rina@baliandbeyond.co.id I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id

Contributors ANGGARA MAHENDRA, PAUL V. WALTERS, FADIL AZIZ TIM HAIN, YOGA RAHARJA, ANNE DEWI, BAYU RAHANATHA

Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription RISKA WAHYUNINGSIH riska.wahyuningsih@baliandbeyond.co.id Tel: (021) 398 36061 (Ext. 224) Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBURMITRA GRAFISTAMA, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 1 1.13
NOVEMBER 2013
Volume 15 No. 162

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WELCOME TO BALI by Yoga Raharja

INVITE&INDULGE
GET IN TUNE
This blissful spa treatment at Ayana Resort will help you realign your chakras

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CRAFT&CULTURE
PARADISE LACE
We take a look at the making of Uluwatu’s beautiful handmade Balinese lace

SIGHTS&SOUNDS
PHOTOS & FUN FACTS
A special compilation of fun facts and quirky finds from September and October

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REST&RELAXATION
VILLAGE HIDEAWAY
Relax at Kampung Cenik, a tucked away haven in the middle of busy South Bali

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22 PRIMEPROMOTION
Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
LET’S GET ARTSY
A roundup of museums and art spaces that you should visit on the island

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DINE&DELIGHTS
EASTERN OPULENCE
A visit to Edogin Japanese Restaurant during their Teppanyaki buffet night

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News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali

86 COMMUNITYCALENDAR
Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT
THE LATEST EXPORT
An interview with artist Arin D. Sunaryo, whose artwork is displayed at the Guggenheim New York

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PONDERINGPOINT
THE NEXT GENERATION
Thoughts on raising kids these days and how the arts often get a back seat

88 SEE&SEEN
Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month

92 BALIMAPS
Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations

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FOTOFOLIO
THROUGH THE LENSE
Scenes from Bali captured by Yoga Raharja, a Bali-based award-winning 16 BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013 photograher

98 INFOINDEX
Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses

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FIRST COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF EDOGIN JAPANESE RESTAURANT AT MULIA BALI SECOND COLUMN BY YOGA RAHARJA, THIRD COLUMN COURTESY OF JAKARTA HASHION WEEK 2013

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

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Volume 15 No. 162

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LITTLELOVES

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COFFEE ART
There’s a different kind of coffee scene brewing at Seniman Coffee Studio in Ubud
TOP PHOTO BY FADIL AZIS, BOTTOM PHOTO BY TIM HAIN

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ACTION&ATTRACTION
LURE OF LEMBONGAN
Nusa Lembongan island has lots of adventures in store for you!

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OFF TO LAKE TOBA
Road tripping from North Sumatra’s capital to Indonesia’s largest lake

CAPITALCORNER
STREET ART
Read about some of Jakarta’s top street artists and the messages behind their works
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PRIMEPROMOTION

ICY TREAT
Cool yourself down with Mulia’s Shaved Ice after spending a day under the hot tropical sun. Available in a range of irresistible flavors like mango, lemon, milk tea and coffee, and topped with generous amounts of fresh fruit, jellies and rich syrups, it’s a refreshing way to complete a blissful day in paradise. The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Nusa Dua (0361) 301-7777 www.themulia.com

HOLIDAY SPIRIT
Bring your loved ones to Jemme Dining for a traditional Christmas experience this coming holiday season. Savor their delicious Christmas set menu that includes roast turkey, blue cheese and warm steak winter salad, Christmas pudding, mulled wine and homemade mince pies, while being entertained by Christmas carol singers. There will also be an appearance by the jolly man in red himself! This dinner offer runs from December 24 - 26 for Rp. 650,000++ per person. There will be just three sittings per day so reserve your spot now! Jemme Dining Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak (0361) 473-2392 www.jemmebali.com

CARNIVOROUS BEER LOVERS
Experience the first ever beer and meat festival at Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran, named ‘Beergasm Bali’. This four-day event is taking place each Saturday from October 19 to November 9 at the Smoqee Sky Bar. For Rp. 149,000 net per person you can enjoy two hours of free flow specially infused Bintang Beer, live bands and DJs. For an additional Rp. 249,000 net per person you’ll get to indulge in the all-you-can-eat barbecue that includes ribs, rotisserie duck, sausage, chicken chili wings and BBQ lamb shoulder, just to name a few. dream come true. Don’t miss out! Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran Jalan Bukit Permai, Jimbaran (0361) 846-6888 www.lemeridien.com
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There will also be over 20 beer labels to try – a beer aficionado’s

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PRIMEPROMOTION

NEW KID ON THE BAY
The Hai Bar & Grill is a brand new beachfront bar and restaurant that has just opened on the soft white sands of Mushroom Bay in Nusa Lembongan. It offers a diverse menu of fresh local seafood, international dishes and wood fire pizzas in an airy and relaxing space with a stunning view of the bay. Open every day, their Happy Hour runs from 5 to 7 p.m. on weekdays. They even offer free pick up service! Hai Bar & Grill Mushroom Beach, Nusa Lembongan (0366) 559-6415

NATURAL BEAUTY
PURE Skin and Body Care beauty products from A.W. Lake Spa are now available at Rob Peetoom Hair Spa Bali. This skin care range is made with natural ingredients, is easy to use and is highly effective, combining PURE BASICS and SUPERCHARGED SERUMS containing bioactive ingredients to target specific skin concerns. Try these products out with a 90-minute Soothing and Rehydrating Facial at Rob Peetom; you’ll love the friendly staff there and the breezy, open-air spa atmosphere. Rob Peetoom Hair Spa Bali, Jalan Petitenget No. 16, Seminyak (0361) 738-363, www.robpeetoom.nl

KITCHEN MASTER
Sharpen your cooking skills this month by taking a cooking class at Bali Niksoma Resort. Under the guidance of Chef Sumada you’ll learn how to prepare delectable dishes such as boiled sticky rice dumplings, young papaya salad, and grilled fish with Balinese spices. With a view of the sparkling waves at Legian Beach, it’s a great way to spend an afternoon! The program costs Rp. 195,000 net per person (includes a certificate and recipes to take home) and Please book two days in advance. Bali Niksoma Boutique Beach Resort Jalan Padma Utara, Legian (0361) 751-947 www.baliniksoma.com
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is available until the end of this year.

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NEW&NEWS

CREATIVE SOLUTIONS
Bali Turtle Island has been selected as the Southeast Asia regional hub for the Sustainable Development Solutions Network (SDSN), a global initiative of the United Nations. The SDSN aims to unlock solutions to sustainable development challenges faced around the world through global networking, crowd sourcing, and open-source problem solving. It is engaged in creating a system of think tanks, universities, NGOs and cutting edge businesses that will work with governments to take on complicated challenges. Launched by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono on October 6 during APEC 2013, the hub will be located at the United in Diversity Creative Campus. www.unsdsn.org www.unitedindiversity.org

SPREADING AWARENESS
On October 18, Bali Pink Ribbon opened the first-ever breast cancer support center in Indonesia. Educational pamphlets in English and Bahasa Indonesia are available at the center and monthly seminars on early breast cancer detection will take place there as well. Currently there is a photographic exhibition on the second floor that shows the emotional journey of women around Indonesia who have been battling breast cancer. The center’s opening was supported by the British Ambassador to Indonesia, Mark Canning. Pink Ribbon House Jalan Dewi Sri IV No. 1, Kuta (0361) 835-2299 www.balipinkribbon.com

WINE LOVERS
The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa has launched a new wine shop called The Cellar, which offers over 150 fine wines and champagnes from around the world in an exquisitely designed space. The Cellar is located within the lobby area of the beachfront outside guests from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak (0361) 730-814 www.theseminyak.com
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resort and is open daily to both in-house and

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NEW&NEWS

BLIND TESTS
The Balinese premium whisky Drum Green Label has recently won a Bronze Award at the 2013 International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC). IWSC is considered to be the most prestigious competition of its kind in the world, where the products are tasted blind by expert panels and then subject to technical analysis. Drum Green Label is the only real whisky being produced in Indonesia that offers a unique taste by combining Scotch and Bourbon whisky making processes. It has a woody and oaky aroma, a buttery taste and a fruity finish.

ECO RESPONSIBILITY
The Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa has recently been awarded Silver Certified status by EarthCheck (the world’s leading certifier of travel and tourism organizations), proving the hotel’s ongoing commitment to the environment. With this honor it has officially joined industry leaders of the same status from more than 65 countries. Through sustainable practices and green initiatives in their daily operations, the hotel also recently received the “Green Hotel Award 2013” from Indonesia’s Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Mari Elka Pangestu. Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, BTDC Lot. N4, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-210, www.nusaduahotel.com

MULTILINGUAL EASE
Due to an ever-increasing Chinese following, favehotels has the launch of the Chinese version of their website. Potential guests from China, Asia and beyond now have three languages to choose from when booking their stay online – English, Indonesian and Chinese. www.favehotels.com/home/chn
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made the accessibility of their website much easier with

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CRAFT&CULTURE

PARADISE LACE
PEEK INSIDE THE FACTORY OF ULUWATU HANDMADE BALINESE LACE.

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ace is not actually a traditional Balinese craft, as originally the customary dress for Balinese women was a sarong around the

30’s that sewing machines began to make an appearance in Bali, and those were the manual and foot-paddled kind. In the 1940’s, the Indonesian government began to encourage Balinese women to cover up with blouses. From then on, kebaya blouses became the garment of choice for women to wear to the temple. With the

waist and bare top. However, Bali does produce extraordinary and intricate textiles for religious ceremonies and dance costumes. It wasn’t until the 1920’s and

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availability of sewing machines, the Balinese quickly learned to make lace and master skills that were fast disappearing elsewhere in the world. Lace tops became popular in the early 1980’s when surfer girls began to don them, and from then on hundreds of home industries sprang up across Bali, popularizing the term “Balinese lace”. However,

the fad soon faded and many switched to producing garments without lace, as they were easier and quicker to produce.

stood firmly with their philosophy of producing quality handmade Balinese lace. Prioritizing quality over quantity is what ultimately enabled them to become the leader of the market. Up until now, the brand still produces in small amounts compared to other clothing or garment brands out there. The company has never

ULUWATU LACE
Uluwatu Handmade Balinese Lace was one of those home industries that fed the trend in the 80’s. Yet, as the trend died down the brand

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The seamstress spun the cotton thread preparing for the krawang process The fabric used for krawang has to be stretched on a bamboo hoop The seamstress starts the krawang process by embroidering the motif screen printed on to the fabric Trimming of the krawang to get rid of unwanted extra fabric and to create a more defined lines.

resorted to big production – Uluwatu has a small factory in Tabanan that employs only about 300 or so people (most of whom are women) to skillfully make Uluwatu’s lace using the finest quality materials.

designer, Besti Lestari, to delve deeper into the steps of producing the beautiful garments that Uluwatu has long been known for. “It starts off with a motif design kind of motif to use, whether it’s a
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ULUWATU LACE

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for the lace. We decide on what traditional flower motif like Uluwatu’s signature lotus flower, or something more modern like paisley,” she explained. “Afterwards, we implement the designed motif into the pattern of the clothes, trace it

AN INTRICATE PROCESS
The process of creating a kebaya blouse takes about a week and is handled by only one seamstress, so each item produced is unique. We caught up with Uluwatu’s head

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“IT STARTS OFF WITH A MOTIF DESIGN FOR THE LACE. WE DECIDE ON WHAT KIND OF MOTIF TO USE, WHETHER IT’S A TRADITIONAL FLOWER MOTIF LIKE ULUWATU’S SIGNATURE LOTUS FLOWER OR SOMETHING MORE MODERN LIKE PAISLEY.”
and screen print it onto the fabric we are going to use for the kebaya.” She continued by explaining how some garments must be sewn in numerous phases, as the krawang production process is pretty complicated. After the screen print, their tailor starts the krawang sewing, which is a painstaking process where the fabric is stretched on bamboo hoops and sewn on paddle-powered machines, creating the delicate honeycomb-like holes which will then turn into lace. Then comes the washing process to strengthen the lace and fabric, followed by precise trimming of the lace to the intended design.

THE WOMAN BEHIND THE BRAND
Made Jati is the founder of this longrunning Balinese lace brand and has an inspiring story. Coming from very humble beginnings, she is the second child of nine and grew up in a poor fisherman’s family in the beach village of Kuta. Her entrepreneurial sense started to emerge as foreign visitors began to arrive in Kuta in the 1960’s. At the time, Made would go down to the beach with cold drinks, fresh fruit and a few sarongs to sell to Kuta’s first tourists. Some of them wanted to bring back handicrafts to sell in their own countries. From here, Made jumped at the opportunity and helped them find things to buy, organized their purchases and scheduled deliveries. By the time she was 17 years old she had her own small business, making lace blouses for tourists. In the early 80’s, when Balinese lace became all the rage for surfer girls, her business really took off. She started to export garments in the thousands every month. She named her company ‘Uluwatu’ after the temple that gave her so much inspiration for her early lace designs. By Ariko Ahmad

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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

LET’S GET ARTSY
OUT OF THE MANY GALLERIES THAT DOT BALI’S LANDSCAPE, HERE’S A SMALL HANDFUL THAT WE VISITED TO QUELL OUR CURIOSITY. ASIDE FROM SHOWCASING BEAUTIFUL PAINTINGS OR PHOTOGRAPHS, THEY ALL HAVE VERY DIFFERENT AMBIANCES AND EVEN OFFER AREAS TO HANG OUT!

BIASA ARTSPACE BALI
BIASA sits right on the main drag, flanked by rows of boutiques and

AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA)
To get your fix of Balinese and Indonesian paintings, ARMA is the place for you to go. The museum features works by famous Indonesian artists such as I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Ida Bagus Made, and Javanese artist Raden Saleh. You can also see the works of foreign artists who have lived in Bali such as Rudolf Bonnet,

Adrien Jean Le Mayeur, and the German painter Walter Spies. There is a slight eeriness to its interiors, and you could probably hear a pin drop in this museum. Regardless, we loved seeing the intricate Batuan paintings from the 1930’s and 40’s as well as the gorgeous stone carvings on the walls near the entrance to the main building. The museum is actually made

up of several buildings surrounded by gardens and ponds. There is also a stage for theatre and dance performances. Admission is Rp. 30,000 and includes tea or coffee in outdoor bales with views of the surrounding rice fields. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Jalan Pengosekan, Ubud (0361) 976-659 www.armabali.com

vendors selling accessories and knickknacks. However, once you’ve set foot in the grey tiled entrance hall, you’ll feel as though you’ve been transported somewhere far away from busy Raya Seminyak Street. It’s quite an edgy space – almost industrial looking, the grey tile covers both the floor and walls. There’s an expansive patch up above painted a

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KENDRA GALLERY
Lots of natural light floods this lovely little art space in Seminyak. The look is simple and clean – white walls, whitewashed wooden floors and chunks of wood that have been sanded down to become stair steps. There’s a garden area that can be seen through the floor-toceiling glass window – so sophisticated a space that it’s even been used for birthdays and weddings in the past. Hanging on the walls at the time of our visit was a youthful and eyecatching hodgepodge of contemporary pieces from a number of artists, a nice mix for visitors to enjoy before the next contrasting orange color and light pours in through the skylights. You’ll hear just the sound of your footsteps and a bit of rustling from the offices upstairs. At the time of our visit we were able to catch the tail end of the exhibit “Observations of the Self” by visual artist Sara Nuytemans. In December, the art space will feature Open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturdays 1 to 6 p.m. Jalan Raya Seminyak No. 34 (0361) 847-5766 www.biasaart.com pieces from their extensive stock. Admission is free, so duck in and have a look the next time you’re out and about in Seminyak.

special exhibition goes up. About 70 percent of the paintings and installations were by local artists (most hailing from Yogyakarta) while the other 30 percent were international. At Kendra, jazzy tunes play in the background, admission is free and visitors are welcome to hang out in the library after perusing the art. So feel free to have some quiet time alone or invite friends to chitchat and linger in the pleasant atmosphere. Open Mon – Sat from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Jalan Drupadi No. 88b, Seminyak (0361) 736-628 www.kendragallery.com

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POSITIVE NEGATIVE VISUAL GALLERY
While the other galleries in this article feature mostly paintings, we just had to throw in this tiny gem in Seminyak – a contemporary art space that was showcasing photography at the time of our visit. Located not too far from Kendra Gallery (it’s actually within walking distance), Positive Negative sits next door

been known to enjoy leisurely evenings of wine, cheese and art in the cozy space. Currently lining their walls are photographs from 25 local and international exhibitors, including Yoga Raharja, whose work can be found in this edition’s FOTO FOLIO (pg. 56). Admission is free so check it out before the exhibition ends later this month. Open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. (9 p.m. on weekends) Jalan Drupadi No. 92, Seminyak (0361) 714-2838 facebook.com/pngallery By Mutia Adisoma
BIASA AND KENDRA PHOTOS COURTESY, POSITIVE NEGATIVE BY YOGA RAHARJA ARMA AND BLANCO PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD

THE BLANCO RENAISSANCE MUSEUM
This museum in Ubud is set amongst an expansive garden that includes a small bird park located not too far from the entrance. The birds are not to miss – they won our hearts over with their vibrant feathers and their tame and lovable nature. The museum itself is several floors and features the works of Don Antonio Blanco, a rather eccentric Spanish artist who passed away in 1999. He devoted much of his work to capturing the beauty of Balinese women. Since arriving in Bali in 1952, the beauty of their form really

captivated him, which you can see in the heavily framed portraits lining the walls. You might even run into his son Mario Blanco in the studio on the museum grounds. Admission is Rp. 50,000, which includes an iced tropical welcome drink. You can elect to have your drink at the end of your tour rather than at the beginning, so take a seat and have a rest in the restaurant area surrounded by beautiful orchids growing straight out of the tree barks. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Jalan Campuhan, Ubud (0361) 975-502 www.blancomuseum.com

to Kzu, a relatively new lunch spot that has quickly grown a devoted following. The gallery is quite small but manages to fit in two tall tables surrounded by tall chairs. We hear that guests have

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DINE&DELIGHTS

EASTERN OPULENCE
FRESH INGREDIENTS AND IMMACULATE PRESENTATION. THE SELECTION OF JAPANESE CUISINE AT EDOGIN’S ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT NIGHTS IS TRULY A SIGHT TO BEHOLD.

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hether it’s the Wagyu beef from Kagoshima Prefecture

The tantalizing selection makes it incredibly difficult to decide what to eat first and what to save for the next round. Located on the Promenade level of Mulia Resort in Nusa Dua, Edogin Japanese Restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. We visited Edogin on a Friday evening specifically for the all-you-can-eat offer, where diners

have access to all the sushi, sashimi, tempura and teppanyaki that their little hearts (and hungry bellies) desire. The buffet is also available on Saturday evenings.

in Japan or the slices of blue fin tuna from the famous Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, everything looks so fresh at Edogin that you can’t help but feel the urge to pile it all onto your plate.

A FEAST FOR THE EYES
Walking into the buffet area, we were blown away by how immaculately arranged every piece

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order. I even noticed my friend arranging the items on his plate as he paced around the buffet, perhaps unintentionally mirroring the aesthetically pleasing surroundings. It wasn’t long before the restaurant began to fill up with patrons. The majority seemed to be guests of Mulia Bali but there were definitely diners from outside the hotel and villas as well. With a seating capacity of 105 persons in the main dining area, it did not feel cramped whatsoever. However, those craving more privacy can opt for a private dining room that accommodates up to 10 people. Hovering quietly around the dining rooms are the incredibly attentive staff, clad in kimonos. They fold tossed-aside cloth napkins neatly while guests are up at the buffet and make sure every single guest has enough Japanese green tea or refreshment of choice. of food was, in particular the sushi and sashimi area. The colors were fantastic – the vibrant orange of the salmon slices, the bright red salmon roe spheres, the juicy yellow lemon wedges accompanying the Canadian oysters and the refreshing green of the wakame (seaweed) at the salad bar. Speaking of the salad bar, the tangy honey yuzu dressing is not to be missed. Boasting just the right amount of acidity, it might just make you go back for a second helping of these fresh vegetables. Since we were the first table to be seated that night, everything was still untouched and it seemed almost a shame to disrupt the

and ramen noodles, Japanese-style curry with white rice, and prawn and vegetable tempura. Not too far from that is an area where chefs offer just-grilled robatayaki, which is basically skewered meat grilled over hot charcoal. The chefs grill the robatayaki continually but also grill to order if you prefer to choose your own slices of meat, seafood and vegetables. There is also a teppanyaki counter that flanks one side of the dining room, with chairs surrounding the flat griddle so guests can enjoy the live cooking show.

SWEET ENDINGS
Make sure to save some space for the vast selection of bite-sized desserts incorporating Japanese ingredients or local fruits and flavors. The night we visited, the colorful selection included green tea tiramisu, coconut jelly, fruit tarts, coffee jelly, peanut butter chocolate mousse and zenzai – a dessert with Japanese red bean and mochi balls. Also not to be missed are the

OFF THE GRILL
Aside from the sushi and sashimi area, there is also an area with soba

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many exotic ice cream flavors such as red bean, white sesame, ginger, green tea, white chocolate orange, banana fudge and lychee sorbet. Don’t fret if your children want nothing other than familiar flavors – Edogin also keeps vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry on hand. As if all the delicious flavors weren’t enough, there are also numerous ice cream toppings to choose from such as chocolate sprinkles, almonds, fresh fruit, raisins, coconut shavings, chocolate chips and Oreo cookie crumbles. Ask one of the chefs to mix the toppings into your ice cream if you like – they have a cold stone imported from Italy where they mix

it all to perfection before handing it back over to you.

NOVEMBER EVENT: SAKE PAIRING
If you’re looking for a more formal dinner experience rather than the buffet, a unique dinner has been planned for November 7 at Edogin. The ‘Ozeki Sake Pairing Dinner’ will feature the ultra premium JudanJikomi Junmai-Dai-Ginjo sake (“The Masterpiece”), hand carried from Japan exclusively for the event. Aside from this premium sake, you’ll be able to taste the recently released Hana-Awaka sake (“Sparkling Flower”) as well as Edogin’s signature sake cocktails, Edogin at The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas - Nusa Dua, Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Nusa Dua, (0361) 301-7777 www.themulia.com all paired beautifully with the lavish seven course set menu. Ozeki Sake’s Rie Maeda will be on hand to share For reservations email edogin. reception@themulia.com. By Mutia Adisoma
PHOTOS COURTESY OF EDOGIN AT MULIA BALI

her expertise throughout the dinner.

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT

THE LATEST

EXPORT
HERE WE CHAT WITH ONE OF INDONESIA’S MOST SUCCESSFUL YOUNG ARTISTS, ARIN DWIHARTANTO SUNARYO, ABOUT HIS WORK FEATURED AT THE GUGGENHEIM NY, HIS INSPIRATIONS, AND ABOUT ART IN GENERAL.

Bali & Beyond (BB): Hi! Please tell our readers briefly about yourself. Arin Dwihartanto Sunaryo (ADS): I’m a 35-year-old Indonesian pursuer of dreams, working in art, trying to make my life better. My father is an artist and my mother is a traditional wedding makeup artist. I’m the second son of three siblings, all of whom work in art. I took my graduate and masters studies in art, but I feel like I have been making art since I was a kid. BB: It’s really exciting that one of your artworks is featured at the Guggenheim New York. How did this come about? BB: Tell us more about your work that is featured at the Guggenheim ADS: It started with me having June Yap, a Singaporean curator, come to my studio to see my work. She was researching Indonesian artists to be shown at an exhibition featuring works from Southeast Asia and South Asia. I’m just glad that she likes my work and decided to include me in the show. ADS: The series came up as a continuation of my exploration in using resin, a material that I consider important in the process of preservation. The ash has to do with my memory of the Merapi eruption that happened in 2010. It left Indonesians with much grief and suffering. What I’m trying to do New York, called “Volcanic Ash Series #4”.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ARIN DWIHARTANTO SUNARYO

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is to preserve the remnants of the event as a form of memorial, which is one thing that art can do for its audience. BB: Who influences your art? ADS: I can’t deny the fact that my father is one of the most influential figures in my career. BB: Where do you find inspiration? ADS: I tend to absorb everything I see in this world as inspiration. BB: What do you think makes a successful exhibition? ADS: I like exhibitions that can give an impression of wholeness, a unity that is meaningful to the public. BB: What do you think about Indonesian artists, particularly painters? ADS: Visual art is not only about painting. Indonesian artists have gathered much more international

recognition since the 1990’s. And in Southeast Asia, Indonesia is still the biggest scene for contemporary art. Young artists now have a more fruitful terrain to develop compared to the previous era. BB: You are currently based in Bandung. Who are some noteworthy artists there that you think our readers should check out online? ADS: Bandung has become an active axis in Indonesian contemporary art mainly because of the existence of the art school at ITB. It’s one of the oldest art schools in the country that produces not only great artists but also art historians, critics and curators. You can browse the names of historical figures like Ahmad Sadali, Syafei Soemardja, Mochtar Apin, G. Sidharta, Sanento Yuliman, Sudjoko, But Mochtar, Umi Dachlan, Kaboel Suadi, Srihadi, Rita Widagdo, AD Pirous, Sunaryo, Haryadi Suadi, Jim Supangkat,

Nyoman Nuarta, Setiawan Sabana, Tisna Sanjaya, and others. They are great teachers who have nurtured the current and upcoming generation. It is also useful to check out the museums, galleries and art spaces that have played a great role by conducting exhibitions and projects for young artists: Galeri Soemardja, Selasar Sunaryo Art Space, Galerikita, Common Room, Nu-Art Sculpture Park, Lawang Wangi, Platform3, S14, and others. BB: What message can you give to the aspiring young Indonesian artists out there? ADS: I don’t think I have anything to say or to give just yet. For now, I prefer to keep learning from others. BB: Any plans to do any solo exhibitions in Indonesia anytime soon? How about in Bali? ADS: Hopefully soon!

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INVITE&INDULGE

WITH THE HELP OF GEMSTONES AND TUNING FORKS, YOU’LL FEEL A NEWFOUND SENSE OF CALM AND BALANCE AFTER THE SEVEN CHAKRA DARA TREATMENT.
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GET IN TUNE

with dreamy views of the ocean, an exclusive bar set on ocean rocks, and at the time of my visit it looked as if the jogging paths had just received a dusting of snow due to the cotton trees in bloom.

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ucked away amongst the trees on an expansive plot of land in Jimbaran, the AYANA Resort & Spa Bali boasts villas

GLIDE THROUGH GARDENS
The Thermes Marins Thalasso Spa incorporates treatment rooms, a reflexology and relaxation lounge, steam and sauna rooms, and one of the world’s largest Aquatonic® Seawater Jet Pools for French thalassotherapy. Checking into the expansive facility, I noticed a number of guests gliding around the gardens in bathrobes and slippers, and sipping drinks from small cups in bales surrounded by koi ponds. Since guests of this spa must be at least 17 years of age, the spa environment remains tranquil, and the only things you will hear are the sounds of splashing fountains and the chirping of birds up above. Upon checking in, guests are ushered into a spacious locker room and greeted warmly by

a multilingual locker attendant. Cool and quiet, the locker area is equipped with showers, large mirrors, beauty amenities and ample room to sit.

REALIGN YOUR CHAKRAS
When I was ready, I was escorted to the second floor of the spa complex. Choosing the Seven Chakra Dhara treatment, I looked forward to reaping the benefits of Ayurvedic massage, aromatherapy blends, gemstone therapy and chakra sound healing to unwind after a particularly demanding week. The two-hour treatment began with a footbath, followed by an Ayurvedic massage that pinpointed maram energy zones to relax my tired muscles and open a pathway for revitalized energy flow. The long flowing massage combined with

Having once visited the AYANA’s ballroom for a private event, I was curious to get a taste of the hospitality and services offered at this resort. So I booked an appointment at their Thermes Marins Thalasso Spa, and this is how I came to pass through the cotton-covered winding road as I made my way to their sprawling 22,000 square meter spa facility.

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synergistic aromatherapy catered to all seven of the chakras. Different gemstones were then placed on each chakra as a tuning fork was played to balance the chakras. This Seven Chakra Dhara treatment also includes a face and scalp massage, but does not include a soak in the bath, as it is advised to keep the oils on your skin for a couple hours after the treatment for optimum benefits. After the treatment my mind was quiet and I moved slightly slower through the locker room. I had an appointment to get to afterwards, but I must say that my muscles were so relaxed that I wouldn’t have minded a nap in one of the bales instead!

WISHLIST: ON THE ROCKS
Although the koi-filled ponds at the spa complex and the view from the sunny second floor treatment rooms were quite enchanting, there is another part of the Thermes Marins Bali Spa that will really get your attention: Spa On The Rocks. Imagine the unparalleled bliss of being perched at the tip of a rock in an open-air spa villa with views of only the vast ocean. It’s just you, your therapist and the sound of the pounding waves, and nothing will get in the way of you feeding off of the positive energy of the surrounds. Spa On The Rocks has launched a new treatment called Lava Me Tender, which utilizes the healing

properties of natural volcanic lava that is rich in minerals. Apparently, this treatment is perfect for achieving the kind of flawless skin that bridesto-be dream of having on their wedding day. I haven’t had the opportunity to try this first hand, but I must say, I’m absolutely intrigued. Have you ever had the opportunity to try Spa On the Rocks? If so, why not sound off on Bali & Beyond’s Facebook wall and share your experience? We would love to hear from you! By Regina Indraswari AYANA Resort & Spa Bali Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera (0361) 702-222 www.ayanaresort.com
PHOTOS COURTESY OF AYANA RESORT & SPA BALI

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SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Photos and fun facts that we picked up while exploring the island throughout September and October…

JALAN MONSTER We visited a small street in Ubud that had been transformed into an innovative outdoor exhibit space – the first Ubud Public Arts Festival. Jakarta artist Kemalezedine told us that plans for next year’s fest are already in the works, and here’s a hint: in place of monsters, it will be all about lights!

LIKE A RAINBOW If you caught Miss World 2013, you might have noticed the ladies dressed in traditional Indonesian costumes from across the archipelago. Did you know that more than 120 of Indonesia’s top designers were involved with the costume design? Now that’s what we call teamwork!

FLYING COLORS We were so amazed by the colors of this Macaw at the Blanco Museum. It was like looking at a living and breathing Pantone book.

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NOM NOM NOM We tried this little Italian restaurant on Jalan Pengosekan in the south end of Ubud based on friendly recommendation. Mamma Mia’s pizza and salad were so good that it left us wanting more!

VAT REFUND BOOTH PHOTOS BY ANGGARA MAHENDARA ALL OTHERS BY ARIKO AHMAD

DID YOU KNOW? It takes a month at the very least to carve Balinese doors like this one out of teak wood, according to these nice gentlemen at the ARMA museum. No blueprints to be seen here, folks!

TOURISTS, REJOICE! Guess what? A new Value Added Tax (VAT) refund counter has been opened inside the new Ngurah Rai International Airport! Here is Finance Minister Chatib Basri officially opening the new counter on October 4.

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REST&RELAXATION

VILLAGE HIDEAWAY
IMAGINE SITTING ON YOUR PORCH WITH THE BREEZE BLOWING THROUGH, SIPPING TEA WHILE LISTENING TO YOUR NEIGHBOR PLAY A TRADITIONAL TUNE ON HIS BAMBOO FLUTE…
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place at a small village in Ubud or Singaraja – it’s actually right in the middle of Bali’s most-visited

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hile it may be hard to believe, this scene is not taking

WHAT IS “JOGLO”?
The term joglo refers to a unique style of traditional Javanese roof with a rising central part supported by four or more wooden columns (saka guru), adorned with intricate carvings on the inside. This kind of structure is found mostly in Central Java and considered sacred, traditionally reserved for Javanese royalty and aristocrats (ningrat).

“golden triangle” area of Legian, Kuta and Seminyak. This is what I encountered during my stay at a quaint little boutique guesthouse called Kampung Cenik.

Kampung Cenik offers simple yet unique accommodations that are ideal for those seeking traditional décor and a serene atmosphere while still being close to Bali’s busiest areas. This boutique guesthouse provides you with the sense of living in a small traditional
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village, which usually can only found in areas outside of South Bali. When you arrive you will be welcomed by the warm and friendly staff in an airy reception area that boasts a majestic joglo structure featuring intricate wood carvings on the ceiling. Standing in the

LITTLE GEM
Literally translated as “small village”,

THINGS TO DO IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD
• Krisna Oleh-Oleh Bali is practically next door! It’s less than a five-minute walk away (through the back entrance) and you can get all your Balinese mementos at this gigantic souvenir shop. • Right around the corner, you can indulge yourself at Talaga Spa. Try their traditional Javanese or Balinese coconutbased treatments. • Looking for a new surfboard? You can get a custom-made board at Studer Surfboards, just a stone’s throw away on Dewi Sri Street. • On the same street you can savor local Javanese delicacies like Mbok Limbok’s Ayam Goreng Kremes (fried chicken with crispy batter) or Warung Indra’s Nasi Tempong. • At night, shake your groove thing at Pyramid Club Bali where international resident and guest DJs are on the decks from Wednesday to Saturday. • In the morning, go a bit further down the street to a little café called Espress for your coffee fix. Place an order for their Shakerato and try not to get hooked!

reception area, you will be able to see the entire grounds of this little haven that oozes the charm of a quaint Indonesian village. It will immediately put you in a relaxed state.

A TOUCH OF JAVA
small traditional handmade wooden houses and a larger joglo house that have been turned into comfortable guestrooms, all surrounding a sparkling blue swimming pool in the center. The houses were all brought in from Central Java and have been set within lush tropical gardens.
OPENING PAGE PHOTO BY ARIKO AHMAD ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF KAMPUNG CENIK

At Kampung Cenik there are eight

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Choose to either savor the view from your porch or immerse yourself in the cool water during one of Bali’s typically hot and sunny days. I stayed in the Rumah Joglo, which is the biggest room at the property. It features a traditional joglo structure with a carved wooden ceiling that is different, but no less beautiful, than the one in the reception area. It also boasts a canopied bed, a semi-alfresco bathroom, a small outdoor backyard and a porch with a view of the swimming pool. Kampung Cenik’s rooms are equipped with modern room

facilities such as satellite TV, air conditioning, a coffee and tea maker and other amenities. Also, the in-room breakfast option is really convenient, especially if you are there for a romantic getaway. By the way, if it is romance you are seeking, I recommend the Bawean Tentrem room. It is smaller than the Rumah Joglo, in the shape of a small stilt house tucked privately in the corner of the premises within an enclosed space. There is a cozy platform underneath the stilt house with a mattress and some plush cushions – a perfect place to linger for two.

MAKE IT YOUR OWN
If you are traveling in a large group, it is possible to rent out all the rooms and take pleasure in creating your own private little village community. You’ll be free to have barbecue dinners by the pool under starry night skies with those nearest and dearest to you, either to celebrate something special or just have a different kind of stay in Bali. By Ariko Ahmad Kampung Cenik Jalan Dewi Sri I No. 3, Kuta (0361) 894-7343 www.kampungcenik.com

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PONDERINGPOINT

THE NEXT GENERATION
GADGETS AND GRADES ARE GETTING PRIORITY OVER DANCE LESSONS AND PLAYTIME. SO HOW WILL THE LOCAL ARTS AND CULTURAL VALUES FAIR IN THE FUTURE?

“Nama kamu siapa? Kamu pintar sekali.” (What’s your name little girl? Aren’t you clever.) She looked confused and asked her mother what I had said. Her mother told me that her daughter couldn’t understand me because Indonesian wasn’t her main language. This came as quite a surprise to me, because according to the mother they were both native Indonesians! We ended up having a long conversation about how kids are being raised these days and I realized how lucky I was to be a young student in the early 90s. For me, school was not so hard and I had plenty of opportunities to play and lots of time to spend with my parents. My mother and father encouraged me to fill my free time with learning traditional Balinese dance, language and music.

I just don’t understand how some parents can feel proud of their child’s ability to manipulate all sorts of gadgets but can’t speak a word of their mother tongue. The number of parents that believe in the importance of passing down cultural values and fostering an appreciation for traditional language and art seems to be dwindling.

TEACH YOUR LITTLE ONES
Dear parents, remember that one day your lovely children will be on their own. Spend time with them while you can and let them enjoy their childhood. To push them to study over 10 hours a day just isn’t worth it, especially if it causes you to miss out on precious moments with them. Among the knowledge and skills that your children can acquire, make sure to pour the values of your culture into the mix as well. In order for them to become strong contenders when facing life in the real world they need to have a strong identity. Culture helps to make a country strong, and it is our responsibility to preserve and pass down the Indonesian traditions and the art forms that are so intriguing and enthralling to tourists from around the globe. Even though I never ended up becoming a dancer, at least I know how to explain to others the stories and meanings behind Balinese dance performances. I am ever so grateful for all the lessons I had when I was a child growing up in Bali. By Bayu Rahanatha
PHOTO BY ANGGARA MAHENDRA

FOR FUTURE’S SAKE
These days, many Indonesian parents seem to have very different priorities for their children. For the sake of a promising future, parents think that the more time their kids spend at school the more languages they will know and the more technological gadgets they will master, so the better off they will be. I agree one hundred percent with the idea of giving our children as many opportunities to learn and grow as possible. I also understand that our children will face much fiercer competition than we ever had to go through. But I believe that on the list of parenting priorities, there are some crucial things missing these days.

at a café. As I sat and sipped my cappuccino, admiring the smiley face in the foam, I noticed a woman and her little daughter sitting next to me. They were both absorbed with their gadgets – the little girl was playing “Candy Crush” while her mother was busily texting on her smart phone. I decided to make small talk with them, so I asked the little girl,

O

n a bright and sunny day not too long ago, I decided to enjoy some quiet time

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FOTOFOLIO

“Master Of Puppets”

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THROUGH THE LENSE
We stumbled upon the photographic works of Yoga Raharja while researching this edition’s LIFESTYLE & LEISURE article (pg. 34), and were so taken that we immediately thought to feature him in FOTO FOLIO. Born in Semarang, Yoga moved to Bali in 1995 and has since made the island his home. “There is no other place that is as perfect as Bali. It’s a heaven for photography,” he professed to us during a meeting in Denpasar. Yoga is particularly interested in human interest and cultural photography and he’s one of three winners at the 2013 Indonesian Photo Exhibition, which had almost 21,000 photo entries from around Indonesia. Having previously exhibited in Japan and Singapore, this month his photography can be found at Positive Negative Visual Gallery or Husk Restaurant at the Royal Beach Seminyak Bali. For inquiries, email noufron@indosat.net.id or call 08123948631.

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This page: “In Between” Opposite page: “Backstage”

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“The Prayer”

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This page: “Before The Storm” Opposite page: “Dare To Be Different”

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“Melasti Ceremony”

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LITTLELOVES

COFFEE

ART
HAUTE CAFFE
thought and heart into it.

WE’RE NOT TALKING ABOUT DRAWING IN YOUR LATTE OR CAPPUCCINO. THIS MONTH WE’RE EXPLORING SENIMAN COFFEE STUDIO’S ARTISTIC APPROACH IN MAKING AND SERVING UP THEIR CUPS OF JOE.

In the short time that they have been serving coffee (one and a half years to be exact), Seniman Coffee has managed to gain a loyal following and a reputation as the go-to place for outstanding joe. Some restaurants treat coffee as an afterthought, but Seniman Coffee Studio puts a lot of Just like an artist producing artwork, this little coffee haven produces their coffee with passion and vigor – from bean selection and roasting to brewing methods. The founders, David Sullivan and Rodney Glick, spent years refining and

I

never used to be much of a coffee guy, and back in the day I was more than content to have just a cup of instant coffee. But as time went on I learned

realizing their vision of a great cup of coffee, from roasting the beans to using the manual brewing method. Manual brew is a method of drip brewing that uses unique contraptions such as Syphon, Pour Over Drip, Aeropress, Chemex, Clever, or Cafetiere. This method allows the barista to control every variable in the brewing process, creating a cup that’s exactly suited to one’s preferences and highlights

more about coffee and to be frank, I became fussier about it. Coffee flavors are not just bitter or chocolaty – they can be so much more than that. And after a visit to Seniman Coffee Studio in Ubud I realized that I still have so much to learn!

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the unique character of the coffee. For example, The Light Roast has a tangy and bright taste with a tea-like structure that can only be produced through manual brew using a Syphon, with the barista consistently watching the temperature.

MORE THAN A CAFÉ
The name Seniman Coffee Studio was derived from the original concept that this café would be more than just an ordinary coffee shop; it is a melting pot where contemporary art, design sensibilities, and delicate coffee techniques and science blend together. This unique blend of art and science is reflected through every aspect, from the furniture and fittings to the drink and food presentations. As you walk through this unique space, you will

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encounter many quirky details like their original iconic rocking chairs dubbed “Bar Rocker Chairs”, the up-cycled glassware, and the unique serving stick that they use to present the manual brew coffee that comes with complementing nibbles. I particularly liked the Bar Rocker Chairs. At first sight they look to be just your everyday plastic garden chairs, but once you sit on one, you’ll soon realize that these chairs are actually rocking chairs! In fact, they are really comfortable and chic looking, with reclaimed teak wood details that turn the chairs into rocking chairs. Another thing that I liked about this unique venue is the fact that they have a coffee school for those who want to learn about coffee in great detail. These classes are run by Seniman Coffee’s co-founder, David Sullivan. You can learn about all aspects of coffee making – from bean selection to roasting to brewing – in their brand new coffee factory building that is just opposite the coffee shop. By Miko Harada

How long have you lived in Bali? I’ve lived here for four years, but I’m originally from London, UK. How did you start Seniman Coffee? Actually it started off as a ‘kaki lima’ (street vendor) concept. We had a cart, David Sullivan, Co-founder of Seniman Coffee which we still do, selling gourmet coffee to Ubud’s streets. We opened up a pop-up coffee shop using our cart at the Ubud Writers Festival, and we were coffee partner of the festival. From the cart we opened up the shop about one and a half years ago. When did you start to be interested in coffee?

I have always been a coffee lover, especially during my time working at an ad agency where I got to travel around the world and taste many different kinds of coffee. But it wasn’t until I lived in Tokyo and found out about the Japanese coffee scene that I really fell in love with coffee. Thoughts on the different coffee scenes? Well there is the Italian way, which is very popular everywhere with the espresso, using the big machine and all that. And there is the manual brew, which is very much adopted in Japanese and Taiwanese coffee culture.

They use tools and methods like the Syphon and Pour Over, which produce a gourmet coffee taste. So, what makes good coffee? That’s a tough question. Well, for me it’s like science and art. You got to understand what happens when you brew, like the temperature and are putting in it. It is also about the roasting. The roaster should also have the science and a sense of artistry, and when they come together, it will produce an awesome result.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SENIMAN COFFEE STUDIO

how much coffee you

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ACTION&ATTRACTION

THE LURE OF LEMBONGAN
FROM BOAT TO MOTORBIKE TO SURFBOARD, MAKE YOUR WAY FROM ONE METHOD OF TRANSPORT TO THE NEXT AND HAVE AN EXCITING ADVENTURE JUST OFF THE COAST OF BALI.

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t begins with a mighty sea journey across the Badung Strait on a speedboat, powered by five 250 horsepower engines. The boat whisks you away

from the Sanur shore, and for the next twenty minutes you find yourself on one of the most remarkable and deepest stretches of water anywhere in the world. On this journey I always get a magical feeling of mystery as we cross the Java trench and the Wallace Line, with all of the

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unknowns that lurk 3,000 meters under the surface. There is a point exactly in the middle of the trench where the waves follow the convergence of the powerful currents swirling beneath you. But the skipper, accustomed to the vagrancies of the trench, navigates his way through the huge swells with casual aplomb. Suddenly the sea flattens out as we round the point of Nusa Penida. This seldom spoken-about island is perhaps Bali’s poorest cousin.

Underdeveloped and lacking a reliable water source, it looks slightly dry and withered. What it does do however, is to shelter its smaller sister island of Nusa Lembongan, wrapping itself around her protectively to shelter her from the worst of the wet season’s storms. We round the cliffs at the far western edge of the island where the surf beats itself against the rocks. Gigantic plumes of spray are thrown high into the air before falling back down. At Dream Beach, where

tourists frolic, the water becomes shallow and presents us with a kaleidoscope of colors in exquisite blue, green and topaz hues. Lembongan’s coastline drifts by, her salacious curves wooing us with her beauty. Beneath us the seaweed farms, from which the locals derive a meager living, drift by. The farms here are in trouble as lately the seaweed refuses to grow. It is thought that the run-off from the villas that cling to the hillside like limpets,

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it’s an entirely different road trip. The potholes that are connected by thin strips of bitumen make one feel like a competitor in the Dakar Rally! and the spillage from the myriad of tourist boats plying these waters are impeding its growth. Tourism, as always, has its downside. The boat eventually drifts onto the beach at Jungut Batu. The white sand stretches east to the famous surfing break aptly named Shipwrecks. Meeting me on the beach is Kecho and his naughty sidekick Hendra, friends of mine from long ago. Their genuine happiness at seeing me again is reinforced by backslaps and hugs all around. In a way, it’s a little like coming home. Once settled in our accommodation (where the view can make even the most hardened cynic weep), the pleasures of the island await. A motorcycle ride is the best way to see the island in its entirety. On the roads, prison rules apply, as it’s everyone for themselves. This is not the chaotic, exhaust filled experience of riding a bike in Bali; The locals wave and the children cry out cheerfully as we weave our into the “interior”. We stop at a small school to have a peek inside and are welcomed by the children and teachers as if we are rock stars. There is no sense that we have intruded upon them or disrupted their day. The ride is essentially easy and allows for the opportunity to visit the wonders of the Mushroom and Coconut Bays, where white sand
TOP AND LEFT PHOTOS THIS PAGE BY PAUL V. WALTERS ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY TIM HAIN

way inland past the mangroves and

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and warm water waits. Drinks at sunset, at one of the myriad of bars and restaurants that line the beach, are a must. If surfing is your thing, paddle out from Coconut Beach to the perfect barrels of Lacerations (right on top of the coral!) or the mellower break of Playgrounds. Or you can try Shipwrecks, which is a bit further away and requires a boat to access. For the less adventurous, ask for a boatman named Pingy, who is a third generation fisherman and guide, and he will take you to some of the most spectacular snorkeling spots in all of Indonesia. The Wall, Crystal Bay and the warm waters right off of the mangroves are

teeming with multicolored fish and coral. It’s literally like being dropped into a tropical fish tank. Jungat Batu has a plethora of restaurants that line the boardwalk and the beach; they are all good so just take your pick. You won’t be disappointed! Accommodations there vary from 5 star to basic backpacker, so there is truly something for everyone. Nusa Lembongan can make your soul dance and your heart sing, and it’s a place where time has not too much relevance. Ensnared in her clutches, whilst exploring and enjoying simple pleasures, time simply loses its meaning. By Paul V. Walters
BEACH DAYS Coconut Beach, Sandy Bay, Mushroom Beach and Dream Beach GETTING THERE Scoot Fast Cruises (www.scootcruise. com) and Rocky Fast Cruises (www. rockyfastcruise.com) depart from Sanur Beach, run 4x daily (to and from), cost Rp. 500,000 Return (includes hotel pick up and drop off), and the trip takes no more than half an hour. DIVING Lembongan Dive Center Full range PADI courses English, French & Indonesian www.lembongandivecenter.com MOTOR BIKE HIRE You can hire a bike most places but beware – the roads aren’t that great and the bikes can be unpredictable.

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BEYONDBALI

FASTEN YOUR SEATBELTS! THIS MONTH, OUR CONTRIBUTOR IS TAKING US ALONG ON HIS ROAD TRIP AROUND NORTH SUMATRA, ENDING AT INDONESIA’S LARGEST LAKE.

OFF TO LAKE TOBA

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one might even be overwhelmed by how many places there are to go to and see in this province. The best way to enjoy the land of the Bataks is to have a road trip. So fasten your seat belt and I will take you along on my scenic journey to North Sumatra’s largest and most popular gem, Lake Toba.

N

orth Sumatra is one of Indonesia’s most popular tourist destinations, and

Chinese from Malacca came into the city following a plantation boom in the 20’s and 30’s. This area is also known as the center of Medan’s street food scene, and several historical buildings such as Café Tip Top, PT. London Sumatra, and Tjong A Fie’s mansion can be found here. After spending several hours exploring these historical spots, I went south on Jamin Ginting Street, which connects the city to North Sumatra’s highlands. As I left Medan behind, the road took me through green scenery. Driving further south through rainforest, I reached Brastagi, a small town in the Sibolangit region that is a popular weekend destination for Medanites. This small and hilly town located between two mountains (Sibayak and Sinabung) is known for its fruit and flower market, as well as a hot spring halfway up the Sinabung Mountain. On weekends the town is packed with tourists, so I decided to go up to Gundaling Hill instead to enjoy a breathtaking bird’s eye view of the entire town and the surrounding area.

photographs, I took an abandoned but beautiful route to Lake Toba’s northernmost tip. Tongging is a peaceful little hamlet, but not many travelers make it there because most of them end their Toba tour at the waterfall. I decided to stay overnight as it was already pretty late by the time I got there. In the morning, I hiked up a twisting path to one of the best views of the lake I’ve ever seen. By the end of it, the majestic Sipisopiso Waterfall came into sight. The 120meter waterfall hurls itself from a cave on the side of the Lake Toba and is one of the top five tallest waterfalls in Indonesia. After spending hours marveling at Sipisopiso Waterfall, I continued my road trip by heading towards Taman Simalem. It’s a 200-hectare resort that sits on the northwestern hills of Lake Toba, boasting cool breezes and an unparalleled view of the glistening lake. The resort also has its own coffee plantation, passion fruit farm, a 9-hole golf course, a small zoo, and is neighbor to 130 hectares of tropical jungle with two other natural waterfalls. After spending a night at Simalem, the next destination was Tele, on the western side of the lake. It is one of the best places to enjoy the beauty of the Batak highlands before going down to Samosir, located right in the middle of Lake Toba. There is a watch tower where you can go up to the top for a 360-degree panoramic view of the neighboring green hills, waterfalls and some picturesque lakeside villages.

START YOUR ENGINE
The road trip started at North Sumatra’s capital, Medan. I took my time exploring the city’s historical treasures, like the Grand Mosque and the nearby Maimun Palace (built by the Sultan of Deli, Sultan Makmum Al Rasyid Perkasa Alamsyah, from 1887-1891). The city also has other historical sites like the Kesawan area, where the

THE MAJESTIC SIPISOPISO WATERFALL CAME INTO SIGHT. THE 120-METER WATERFALL HURLS ITSELF FROM A CAVE ON THE SIDE OF THE LAKE TOBA AND IS ONE OF THE TOP FIVE TALLEST WATERFALLS IN INDONESIA

EDGES OF TOBA
My goal was to reach Sipisopiso Waterfall by the end of the day, located on the northern edge of Lake Toba. I traversed through unmarked paths and roads less known and almost missed several turns in the heavy rain. But finally, the lake revealed itself with its bright blue waters. After a brief stop to take some

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THE FINAL LEG
After an hour in Tele, I embarked on the final leg of my journey. Carefully making my way down one of the most spectacular and dangerous roads in all of Sumatra, I reached Pangunguran on the western side of Samosir through an isthmus connecting the island to Tele, proving that Samosir is not an island, contrary to the common belief. Arriving at the home of the Toba Bataks, I circled tranquil Samosir to explore the landscape. I decided to stay there for a bit, giving myself time to indulge in its rich culture. I left no stone unturned, visiting the Batak villages where people’s lives are still very much deeply rooted in traditional culture, and marveling at the houses, rice fields and the unique burial grounds. It was a very special experience that I wouldn’t mind repeating, and it’s one that you should definitely try yourself. To end this memorable road trip, I drove to Samosir. Catching a ferry across the lake to Prapat, I reminisced on my journey before my five-hour drive back to Medan. By Fadil Aziz
ALL PHOTOS BY FADIL AZIZ

NORTH SUMATRA

Tuk-Tuk, on the eastern side of

INDONESIA
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CAPITALCORNER

STREET

THESE JAKARTA STREET ARTISTS ARE FAR FROM BEING LABELED AS VANDALS, AS PROVEN BY THEIR UNIQUE ARTWORK.

ART
uman beings have always had an instinct to express themselves through art, as proven by misinterpreted as vandalism. Police often can’t differentiate between the two. As members of the public, we can judge which graffiti and street art is considered littering and which are works to be admired. In big cities like Bandung and Jakarta, many members of the public have already accepted street art as works of art. In Bandung, when you pass through Siliwangi Street, you can see murals all along the walls done by the Art and Design students of ITB (Bandung Institute of Technology). This street art is much appreciated and has even the longest mural in Indonesia. In Jakarta, you can see murals and graffiti flanking lots of streets. Some are bad,
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

H

paintings by cavemen on cave walls. These days, people who choose to put their art on walls or other public areas often want to communicate a political or social issue to a larger audience. Perhaps the best example of this is street artist Banksy, a U.K. based graffiti artist famous for his politically motivated street art. However, the number of vandals or street punks who litter city streets, walls and public facilities with meaningless words definitely outnumbers the artists with a message. They often spray paint profanity or their gang’s name, which is why street art is commonly

managed to break the record for

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unfortunately, but some are also good. The good ones convey messages to passersby and are aweinspiring because they make people wonder how someone could paint something so sophisticated in such a short amount of time. Here are some artists in Jakarta who have emerged to share their thoughts through street art.

DARBOTZ
Darbotz is one of the founders of www.tembokbomber.com, one of the largest street art and graffiti communities in Indonesia. He has a unique style of using only black and white, done intentionally to differentiate his work from some of those that have started to use street art as a means of commercial advertising.

He also applies this style on canvas, but he admits that creating art on the streets has its own special appeal. For example, there’s no space limit and he derives much inspiration from the cars, pollution, wind and traffic jams. His signature character is a squid, which represents his alter ego in dealing with the big city. Darbotz was one of the judges for Google Openspaces, a project

Jakarta’s traffic as depicted by the artist Darbotz

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Saleh Husein’s work at Imagerie Gallery

mixing digital and street art. Even though Jakarta is congested and can seem “messed up” at times, Darbotz still loves the city and expresses this love through his work. The piece called “Jakarta’s Monster” (a collaboration with artist Tutu) is a prime example of this, where the monsters represent the Metromini and
This piece and Twitter piece on opposite page by the artist Popo

in various mediums. This band member of The Adams and White Shoes & The Couples Company held his first solo exhibition in 2012 called “Riwayat Saudagar” (The History of Merchants). The exhibition was centered on the themes of of culture and identity. Aside from murals, he also experiments with other mediums such as charcoal on paper and acrylic on canvas. The mural called “Photography: one of the most powerful weapons (Rethinking the history
PHOTOS COURTESY OF EACH ARTIST

immigration and the amalgamation

buses that crowd Jakarta’s streets.

SALEH HUSEIN
As if being a guitarist for two bands didn’t keep him busy enough, Saleh Husein also creates visual artworks

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of photography and the city)” is his collaboration with Kemalreza Gibran that is exhibited at Imagerie Gallery at the Fairgrounds Jakarta. Inspired by Eddie Adams’ photo that won a Pulitzer, capturing the moment where General Nguyen Ngoc Loan executed a Viet Cong officer in Saigon, the mural has a camera in place of the gun from the original photo and the city setting is distorted – an anti-war and antiviolence piece.

any superhero characters coming out of Indonesia, which is why he has chosen Petruk and Buto as his signature characters. Koma also likes Indonesian wayang characters such as Rangda, Cakil, and Punakawan. Many Indonesian youngsters don’t recognize these characters because perhaps their parents haven’t made it a priority to teach them. This is why Koma wants to make them popular again by mixing them with “happening” urban culture.

that initially got him interested in murals. Popo has now been creating murals for about ten years. He has also participated in national and international exhibitions and even held his own solo exhibition at Galeri Ruang Rupa in 2010, winning “The Best Mural Artist” at Tembok Bomber Award 2010. Beside murals, he also experiments with paintings, installations and digital prints. By Anne Dewi

KOMA
Ever since he was a kid, the artist Koma has collected Petruk comics by Tatang S., (famous in the 80’s) and has always been of the opinion that local characters from Indonesia can be just as cool as Dragon Ball characters or any other Western superheroes. These days, he has noticed that there aren’t

POPO
This artist’s real name is Ryan Riyadi, but people started to call him Popo after the character he invented. This Popo character is humorous and often makes whoever sees it laugh, but his murals also contain social criticism. It was graffiti near his house made by a mural artist in 2000

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Vibrant use of color by the artist Koma

BEYONDUPDATES

FASHION CAPITAL
Last month, Jakarta’s glitziest and most glamorous crowd gathered at Senayan City Mall for the largest fashion event in Southeast Asia. Back for its sixth year, the Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) was held from October 19 to 25 and featured 240 designers and labels including seven international designers. With 77 fashion shows showcasing 3,000 looks on 350 models, it was an event not to be missed for the capital’s fashionistas. Featured Indonesian designers included Oscar Lawalata, Jeffry Tan, Friedrich Herman, and Tex Saverio, who is known for dressing the likes of Lady Gaga and recently had his ready-to-wear collection shown at Paris Fashion Week. www.jakartafashionweek.co.id

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

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COMMUNITYCALENDAR

CONQUERING NEW GROUND
You’re invited to take part in the Bali Highway Half Marathon on November 17, which will be the first running event to be held on the brand new toll road in Nusa Dua. The event will take place at sunset time and will consist of three race categories; a 21 km longdistance half marathon, a 10 km fun run, and the family-friendly Pi fun run/walk (3.14 km with pies at the finish line!). In support of this event, Garuda Indonesia is offering special flight rates to all the participants with 13% and 20% discounts for domestic economy class and international economy class flights respectively. Register now! www.balisporti.weebly.com

DELICATE DRAPERIES
For three months, the Bridges Restaurant will hold an exhibition of stunning Indonesian wall hangings and tapestries. The event will be launched with a party on November 1 from 4 to 8 p.m., where guests are invited to explore as well as to have a drink to John Fawcett Foundation’s Yayasan Kemanusiaan Indonesia, known for providing sight restoration, education and health assistance to youngsters in Bali. Bridges Restaurant, Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud (0361) 970-095 www.bridgesbali.com
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

and enjoy delicious canapés and live music performances. The Bridges Restaurant will donate 20% of the exhibition’s proceeds

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SEE&SEEN

TEACH A MAN TO FISH
On October 7 the U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry was seen at Benoa Harbor inspecting a ship’s catch with Indonesian Maritime and Fisheries Minister Sharif Cicip Sutardjo and Anova Asia’s program director of fishing and living. The visit was made to enhance U.S. cooperation with Indonesia concerning fisheries.

COASTAL CLEANUP
On September 21, members of Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, the Bali Hotels Association (BHA), Rotary Club Seminyak, local schools and the media got together to clean Seminyak Beach. As part of the Ocean Conservancy’s International Coastal Cleanup campaign, the group covered a distance of 2 km and collected over 142.6 kg of trash. www.bali.anantara.com

LEAN & GREEN
The South Kuta Beach Business Association (SKBBA) in conjunction with American Express/Bank Danamon launched a “Be Clean, Green and Lean” program in September. In total, 67 bikes were distributed to SKBBA member hotels and are available to guests for free use as part of their “All the Fun Under the Sun” program for 2013/14. www.southkutabali.com

TRICKS OF THE TRADE
On October 11 members of the Young Chefs Club Indonesia (YCCI) Bali Chapter visited Bambu Restaurant for a Thai cooking workshop led by Chef Sitanan Ladsa-Nga. The guest chef was visiting from Banyan Tree Koh Samui as part of the “Thai Delights” promotion that took place from October 4 - 11 at the Banyan Tree Ungasan. www.banyantree.com

CONSULS DO LUNCH
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

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Bene Italian Restaurant at the Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort welcomed 21 consuls for a postAPEC Consulate Luncheon on October 10. Executive Chef Rossano prepared a 5-course Rome-inspired Italian menu with a touch of home style. This event was organized by the Sheraton Bali Kuta and Beachwalk. www.beachwalkbali.com

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SEE&SEEN

FILM FEST
The 7th annual BALINALE International Film Festival saw the likes of Raditya Dika, Happy Salma, Rima Melati, Didi Petet, festival co-founder Christine Hakim and the Minister of Tourism and Creative Economy Mari Elka Pangestu in attendance. Visiting filmmakers included Donna Smith, Michael Altman, Jan Chapman, Emmanuel Palo, Jong Pil Lee and Ryu Hyun-Kyung, amongst others. The festival was held from October 4 - 10 and saw an increase in young audience members this year. www.balinale.com

FUN RUN
On September 21 over 750 runners participated in the Sheraton 3K Kuta Beach Fun Run. The runners gathered bright and early at 6:30 a.m., then ran along Kuta beach and raised over US$ 11,000 for the UNICEF Check Out for Children Challenge. After the race they were invited to savor Kuta’s longest pizza (over 100 meters), prepared by the Sheraton Bali Kuta’s culinary team. www.sheratonbalikuta.com

HOT POCKET
October 14 marked the official grand opening of the Harper Kuta Hotel. The hotel is quickly growing in popularity and enjoyed high occupancy levels during its soft opening. Strategically located just a stone’s throw away from Kuta’s hottest clubs, it’s still able to offer a quiet atmosphere by being set back from Jalan Raya Legian. www.harperhotels.com

ORANGE YOU GLAD
Guests came dressed in black and orange but walk-ins were more than welcome to enjoy the fun atmosphere at the Alibi Bar on October 5. Held in conjunction with Jagermeister, partygoers enjoyed fruity Jager cocktails and shots infused with nutty aromas. The dance floor was packed late into the night. www.upaashaseminyak.com
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

TRENDY TREATS
A stylish crowd amassed at the Sentosa Seminyak Resort on September 21 for the grand opening of Salt tapas Bali. VIP attendees enjoyed delicious canapés and tapas from Chef Luke Mangan, together with cocktails, champagne, DJ sets and a 30-minute fashion parade set atop the pool. The festive opening was in conjunction with the launch of Design-Dope. www.salttapasbali.com
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Maxi Hotel & Spa
The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.

Jl. Legian 83A, Legian Tel: (0361) 754-082 Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com Website: www.maxi-hotel.com

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Menjangan Island

Singaraja

Gilimanuk

Pemuteran

Lovina

BULELENG
M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul

West Bali National Park
BANGLI

JEMBRANA
M. Batukaru Medewi

Laker Buyan Lake Tamblingan Lake Bratan

Lake Batur Tulamben

92

Negara

Besakih Bangli

M. Agung

KARANGASEM
Tenganan

Amed Amlapura

TABANAN
Ubud

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

Tabanan Tanah Lot Canggu

KLUNGKUNG
Semarapura

Candi Dasa

BADUNG
Taman Ayun

GIANYAR

DENPASAR
Sanur

Nusa Lembongan Island Nusa Ceningan Island Nusa Penida Island Tanjung Benoa Nusa Dua

Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran Uluwatu

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Jl. Batubelig

Jl. Tangkuban Perahu

V
Jl. Hang Tuah

Danoya Italy Consulate
Tuah Jl. Hang

CD
M
Le Mayeur

M
Fish Market

Jl. Raya Kerobokan

Jl. Mertanadi

C
Sanur Paradise Plaza Inna Grand Bali Beach

Jemme Cafe

H H
C
Sector
Ramada Benoa

W Hotel

Jl. Mertasari

H

NUSA DUA
N W E
Tao Bali SAKALA Medical Center

Jl. Su

nset

Road

Jl. Laksamana
ta n

Jl. Petitenget

S

Art Market

Jl. Raya Basangkasa

Jl.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

H
n Da au

The Seminyak

Be

ra

H

H
Jl. kunti II
Jl. Tukad Bilok Jl. Danau Buyan

The Oberoi Sweden & Finland Consulate

S
CD
Jl. Segara Ayu

R R +

Jl. kunti I

H Novotel Bali Benoa H The Bali Khama

Jl. Camplung Tand

uk

Jl. Plawa

Jl. Raya Seminyak

Jl. Suns

Gado Gado
Jl. Tegeh Agung
Sindu Beach

R
Jl. Sindu

H H

Grand Mirage

ix

le S

et Road

oub

Jl. Arjuna

Jl. Nakula

Aston Bali Resort The Oasis

Jl. D

H
CD
French Consulate

Sanur Paradise Plaza Suite

H H

kuda Jl. Wer

ra

KUTA
H
The Village

ian

ra

Jl. Leg

adm

a Uta

Jl. P

Dental Clinic

+

a

dew

SANUR
N
C

Jl. Pratama

aha

Jl. S

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

i Kuta

rata

H Istana rama Beachwalk H Harris

ma

Panta

aya

Kuta Sea View

Telaga Naga

R

+
gu ra

Medical Center

Jl. P

Jl. R

Kuta

H
Jl. Maj

Mercure
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

apahit

Jl. R

aya

i

rta

C
Bali Galleria
Jl. Danau Poso

C
S

sar

Jl. Srikandi

Me

H
CD
h Ra i
Czech Rep. Consulate

S

Kuta Square

Jl.

gura

ss N

aP la

za

an

Ka

rtik

Jl.

Kuta Center

J

l. By pa

Jl. Raya Tub

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market H S M Museum Kartika Plaza Shopping S S R Restaurant Discovery Shopping Mall V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique

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H

Amaris Legian

N
Clinic

H
+

Conrad Bali

H

The Royal Santrian

Jl. Pa

dma

W E
Jl. Danau Tamblingan

Legian Beach

H
S
Istana Kuta Galleria

S W E S

H
Batu Jimbar

Melia Benoa

Jl. Melasti

S

Art Market

Jl. Pratama Raya

H H
Jl. p By

Club Med Bali Kayumanis Nusa Dua

BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2013

H H
as sN

Nusa Dua Beach Westin Resort

H R

Rosso Vivo

H

Bali Hyatt

H
hR ai

The Laguna

S
Tragia
Jl. Kurusetra 3

H
Jl. W

Melia Bali

M
iray uda

Village Market

M
Clinic
Jl. P anta i Pem

Museum Pasifika

+
inge

Hard Rock Starbucks Jl. Pantai Kuta

S

Bali Collection

R

The Bay

Kuta beach

Jl. Tegal Wangi

Jl.

H
Pa nta

Grand Hyatt Bali
iM

H H H H
Mercure Sanur Beach Puri Santrian
en gia t

Ina Putri Bali

R

Gabah

H
Ayodya Resort bali

H
Amanusa

H
The St. Regis Bali Resort The Bale
a Se Nusa Du Jl. latan

H

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique

The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas

H H

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique
Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa

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yan

CANGGU

To Kerobokan

Pantai Bra
Canggu River

BUMBAK
Bumbak

wa

Nela

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Canggu Beach

TIBUBENENG
Subaksari

Canggu Surfing

Pantai Brawa

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Perancak Temple

SEMER KUWUM

Raya Semer
Peng uben gan

Brawa Beach

Ke

UMALAS

Batub
Batubelig

elig

Batubelig

Jl.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

lec

un

g

Ra
Gunung Tangkuban Perah

ya

Ke

ro

BRAWA

bo

Dukun Indah

ka

n

To Denpasar

International Community School

Ray aS em er

u

State Prison of Kerobokan Warisan Australian International School

Batubelig Beach

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

R
Mertanadi

BATUBELIG

KEROBOKAN

H

Villa Lumbung

KEROBOKAN CANGGU
N W S E
LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

W Bali

H
Petite nget

Jl. Raya Kerobokan

T
Petitenget Temple Petiteng

et

Mertasa

ri

Bali Clinic

Jl. R
Laksam ana

+

aya

Bida

dari

Basang

Ka yu

The Legian

H

Obero

i

Su

Ay a

kasa

ns

et

Ro

Drupadi

ad

SEMINYAK

KEDEWATAN

To Payangan

Jl. Campuhan

M
Jl. Sandat

To Kintamani

UBUD
N W S E

Neka Museum

Riv

Ay

Jl. Sand

Painting Museum

Jl. K

CAMPUHAN
Jl. R

M M
Antonio Blanco Museum
aya

ajen

Four Season

Jl. Andong

er

H
g

Jl. Su

weta

Jl. Tirta Tam

UBUD

an

g

TAMAN
at
Ganding

ANDONG

H
Kayu Manis

Ubu

d

Ubud Palace

Market

M
man Jl. Hano wah

PENESTANAN

Jl. Dewi Sita

Cok Putra S
Jl. Jemba

Jl. Jero

Medical

+

+
Medical
nkey

Maya Ubud Resort

H

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

un

Jl. Sugr

R

iwa

Rai

SAYAN

Forest

Jl. Mo

ede

Lamak

Manik

ok G

Jl. IB

Jl. C

Pusering Jagad Tample Keboedan Tample

T

Penataran Sasih Tample

T

T

Monkey Forest

T
PELIATAN BEDULU

M
Afchaeological Museum

Jl. Nyuh bulan

KATIK LANTANG

Elephant Cave

T

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Rudana BALI&BEYOND 2013 M NOVEMBERTEGES Museum

To Denpasar

NYUH KUNING

PANGOSEKAN

To Denpasar

To Kemenuh

TENGKULAK

To Gianyar

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INFOINDEX
AIRLINES
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15

■ FRANCE
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

■ TIMOR LESTE
Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com

MUSEUMS
■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART
(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm

■ GERMANY
Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com

■ UNITED STATES
Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

■ ABIAN KAPAS
Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176

■ ROYAL BRUNEI
Tel: (0361) 757-292

■ HUNGARY
Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net

HEALTH&MEDICAL
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

■ ANTONIO BLANCO
Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm

■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383

■ INDIA
Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays

■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar
Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ ITALY
Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL
LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends

■ MERPATI
Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya,
Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485

■ JAPAN
Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp

■ MANDALA AIRLINES
Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059,
222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar

■ MALAYSIA
Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR
Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT
Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA
Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL
Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141

■ MEXICO
PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com

■ QATAR AIRWAYS
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788 Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: (0361) 760-275

■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

■ NETHERLANDS
KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com

CLINIC&HOSPITAL
■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC
24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515

Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com

■ DEPARTURE
Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 40,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ MUSEUM RUDANA
Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud

■ ROYAL DANISH
Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com

■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan

■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND
Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com 24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701

TOURIST INFO.
■ INTEGRATED TOURISM
INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188

CONSULATES
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au ■ BRITAIN
Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id

■ SLOVAKIA
Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL ■ SPAIN
Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150

AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION
OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41

■ BRAZIL
Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND
Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

■ CHILE
Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com ■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA
Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: (0361) 754-457 E-mail: bali@honorarvertretung.ch

■ SILOAM HOSPITALS
24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com

■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION
SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm

■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,

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