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SUMMER 2013

FL ’ AY S R BA bE CU E AD N IO CT DI

04

Grilled Summer
The Great American Pastime
$1.99

INDiAN-SPiCED CHiCKEN WRAPs (RECiPE PAGE 54)

BURGERS: Beyond beef GRILLING FISH: Simple tips for better results SENSATIONAL SANDWICHES: Gourmet offerings from bread to spread FIRE UP THE VEGETAbLES: Savory summertime sides on the grill

Sendik’s Food Markets
welcome
Open 7 a.m. – 9 p.m. daily
340 W. Brown Deer Rd. Bayside, WI 53217 Coming Soon! 13425 W. Watertown Plank Rd. Elm Grove, WI 53122 (262) 784-9525 5200 W. Rawson Ave. Franklin, WI 53132 (414) 817-9525 N112 W15800 Mequon Rd. Germantown, WI 53022 (262) 250-9525 2195 1st Ave. Grafton, WI 53024 (262) 376-9525 7901 W. Layton Ave. Greenfield, WI 53220 (414) 329-9525 10930 N. Port Washington Rd. Mequon, WI 53092 (262) 241-9525 3600 S. Moorland Road New Berlin, WI 53151 (262) 696-9525 8616 W. North Ave. Wauwatosa, WI 53226 (414) 456-9525 280 N. 18th Avenue West Bend, WI 53095 (262) 335-9525 500 E. Silver Spring Dr. Whitefish Bay, WI 53217 (414) 962-9525

BAYSIDE

ELM GROVE

FRANKLIN

GERMANTOWN

The Color of Summer P

GRAfTON

GREENfIELD

MEQUON

NEW BERLIN

WAUWATOSA

WEST BEND

WHITEfISH BAY

www.sendiksmarket.com

John Cary (left), executive director of the MACC Fund, accepts the donation check from Sendik’s winter charity campaign. A portion of the $129,250 donation, presented by Margaret Harris (center) and Ted Balistreri of Sendik’s, was raised from the sales of the Real Food winter issue.

eople often joke that Wisconsin only has two seasons: winter and road construction. While many kid about the long winters in the Badger State, when we think of summer, we think not of orange construction barrels but of the color green. We think of green grass, of Northwoods foliage, of seasonal vegetables. At Sendik’s, the color has taken on a new meaning as The Balistreri family: Patty, Nick, Margaret (Harris), we’ve expanded our compost- Salvatore, Ted, and Patrick. ing program in an effort to be to consumers. This program allows us to even more “green.” In partnership with keep nearly 20 percent of our waste out of our friends at Waste Management, we began a composting pilot program last landfills every month. Since the program summer at our Germantown location. It launch, we’ve been able to compost more than 425 tons of organics. We’re grateful worked so well, we were able to expand for Waste Management’s partnership, and it to all of our stores last fall. Our employees now segregate unwant- we are excited about the impact this can ed produce and plants for recycling, make in our community. Our customers are continuing to including flowers, fruits, and vegetables past their prime and trimmings from our impact the community as well with in-store food preparation. Those materi- their generous support of local charities through the purchase of Real Food magaals are then separated in designated carts zine. Our charity partner this issue is again and collected by Waste Management in a Penfield Children’s Center. All proceeds Rotopress. The Rotopress vehicle—one from the sale of this magazine will go of only five in all of North America—is directly to this very special charity. You ideally suited for collecting food waste can read more about other ways to support because it is sealed to contain odors and Penfield’s mission on page 16. liquid and continually moves the material We wish you a summer filled with forward to ensure even weight distribution. After being mixed with yard debris, wonderful shades of green. our waste, which used to end up in landSincerely, fills, decomposes into a rich, uniform soil additive that Waste Management supplies to a leading lawn care company for sale The Balistreri Family

www.sendiksmarket.com real food 9

Sendik’s Food Markets
produce

Sendik’s Food Markets
produce

T

Expectations
he fresh grape boom hit the Golden State in 1839 when a former trapper from Kentucky,William Wolfskill, planted the state’s first table grape vineyard in the area now known as Los Angeles—and it’s been booming ever since. Today, 99 percent of grapes commercially grown in the United States come from California—nearly 100 million boxes each year.There are more than 70 varieties grown today—in green, red, and black. And now is the perfect time to enjoy as they’re at their peak May through January. Grapes are a low-calorie and good-for-you food. A ¾ cup serving contains just 90 calories, no fat, no cholesterol, and virtually no sodium. Grapes of all colors contain a variety of antioxidants and other polyphenols, as well as potassium and vitamin K.Antioxidants may contribute to a healthy heart, and may help defend against a variety of age-related and other illnesses. Look for grapes with green, pliable stems and plump berries. A powdery-white coating, bloom, is a good thing; it protects them from moisture loss and decay. They’ll keep for up to two weeks when stored and handled properly. Store unwashed and refrigerated until ready to use, then rinse with cold water and serve or add to recipes. Avoid storing next to things like onions as they can absorb odors. Slice and add grapes to green salads, mix in chicken salad sandwich or savory main dishes, and blend them into a breakfast smoothie. Freeze grapes for a healthy cold treat on hot summer days.Try dipping in chocolate or caramel for a sweet bite, such as in the following recipes.

Grape

TOMAtO AMORE
Whether you think of it as a fruit or veggie, there’s much to love about the tomato.
2 1 3 4

Heirloom Tomatoes
In recent years, tomato varieties from perhaps as far back as the debated fruit/veggie classification have been creating a buzz. Known as heirloom, the seeds for these plants have been handed down for generations or were grown commercially before modern hybrids. Some schools of thought say seeds for these plants must be more than 100 years old, others say 50 years, and yet others say they must be from before 1945, which is around the time widespread hybrid use by growers and seed companies began. But whatever the timeframe, it is generally agreed that heirloom plants must be open pollinated, meaning they can reproduce themselves from seeds. With quirky names like Mortgage Lifter, Brandywine, and Cherokee Purple, heirloom tomato varieties vary widely in color, shape, and size. They sport a colorful rainbow of skins—from bright yellow, dusky pink, or striped orange and green to a deep, almost bruised color—over equally colorful flesh that ranges from light red to deep red or brownish purple. Many heirlooms also come complete with their own backstory. The legendary Mortgage Lifter was developed in the 1930s and reportedly credited to M.C. “Radiator Charlie” Byles, a radiator repairman from West Virginia, who crossed six generations of tomatoes to create these large fruits that can weigh up to four pounds. He began selling his plants for one dollar each in the 1940s, and they were so popular it is said he earned enough money over the next six years to pay off the mortgage on his farm.

I
Grape Varieties
Flame Seedless:
Medium-sized, red, round, seedless berries. May–November

Grape Tuxedo Bites, 3 Ways
Chocolate Toffee Grapes or White Chocolate Almond Grapes
MaKes 25

Caramel Peanut Grapes
MaKes 25

25 green or red seedless California grapes ½ cup semisweet chocolate chips (or chopped semisweet chocolate) or ½ cup white chocolate chips (or chopped white chocolate) 1 teaspoon vegetable oil ½ cup finely chopped toffee bits (or finely chopped salted almonds)
1. Put toothpicks into the grapes, set aside. Line a baking sheet with wax paper or parchment. 2. In a small double boiler, melt the chocolate and oil together over medium-low heat, stirring until melted, about 5 minutes (or in the microwave on high power 30 seconds, stirring once). Dip the grapes in the chocolate and then in the toffee or almonds. Place on the parchment lined baking sheet. Repeat until all the grapes are used. Chill until set. 10 real food summer 2013

25 green seedless California grapes ½ cup finely chopped salted peanuts ½ cup caramel bits or 10 unwrapped caramels 1 tablespoon heavy cream
1. Put toothpicks into the grapes, set aside. Line a baking sheet with parchment. 2. Place the peanuts in a small bowl and set aside. In a small saucepan, melt the caramel and cream together over medium-low heat, stirring until melted, about 5 minutes. Keep warm. Dip the grapes in the caramel and then in the nuts. Place on the parchment lined baking sheet. Repeat until all the grapes are used.
Note: You can also melt the caramel in the microwave. Put the caramels in a microwaveable bowl or glass measure and zap on high 30 seconds. Stir until smooth and zap an additional 20 seconds if necessary. ■
PhOtOs and Recipes cOUrtesY Of the CalifOrnia Table Grape COmmissiOn

Summer Royal:
Medium-sized, black, round to slightly oval, seedless berries. June–October

Princess: Large, green, cylindrical, seedless berries. June–December Thompson Seedless:
Medium to large, green, cylindrical, seedless berries. July–December

Red Globe:
Very large, red, round, seeded berries. July–January

Crimson Seedless:
Medium-sized, red, cylindrical, seedless berries. August–January

t’s a great time of year to embrace fresh, flavorful tomatoes, which make eating your fruits and veggies one easy choice. Botanically speaking, tomatoes are a fruit, which is the edible part of a plant that contains the seeds. But it was classified—after some debate—as a vegetable by the U.S. government in 1893.Whether you want to call it a fruit or veggie, there’s no question it’s packed full of nutrients. Tomatoes are a good source of fiber, are rich in Vitamin C, and containVitamins A and B, and potassium. They are also a very good source of lycopene, an antioxidant that may help reduce the risk of heart disease and some forms of cancer. Health benefits aside, tomatoes are delicious raw—on their own sliced and sprinkled with a little salt and pepper, or in salads and sandwiches. Cooked, they make great pasta sauce or salsas. Stuff and bake them, or grill them on skewers with other vegetables. Peak season for domestic fresh tomatoes is June through September and the perfect time to get your hands on some of these delicious fruits/veggies—and it may take two hands to hold some of the beefy tomatoes that can easily weigh up to two pounds or more. When purchasing tomatoes, select those that are firm and smooth skinned but yield slightly to pressure. Avoid tomatoes that are too soft, wrinkled, or that have broken skin or blotchy brown areas. There are numerous tomato varieties but they fall into four general categories:

flavor balances sweetness and acidity. Beefsteaks can be eaten raw or cooked. Globe tomatoes are medium-sized, firm, and juicy. Many of the largescale commercial tomatoes are in this category. They’re good both raw and cooked.

2

Plum tomatoes, also called Roma or Italian plum, are egg shaped and either yellow or red. They’re not as sweet and acidic as beefsteak or globe. With lower water content and fewer seeds plum tomatoes are a good choice for cooking and canning. The tiny grape tomato is a hybrid Roma tomato.

3

Cherry tomatoes, which are about an inch in diameter, may be red, orange, green, or yellow, and are generally a bit sweeter than beefsteak or globe tomatoes. They are good fresh out of hand, in salads, or quickly sautéed. The yellow pear tomatoes are slightly smaller than cherry and shaped similar to a pear or teardrop. They are best eaten raw but can be cooked briefly. ■

4

Tip: Don’t refrigerate tomatoes
(unless they’ve been cut). Store them at room temperature away from sunlight and use within a few days. Cold temperatures stop the ripening process, dull the flavor, and can make the flesh pulpy. Tomatoes that are partially green will ripen if left at room temperature. Once fully ripe, tomatoes can be refrigerated for a few days, but any longer will cause their flavor to deteriorate.

Beefsteak is the largest tomato, and can easily weigh 2 pounds or more. Round and slightly pumpkin-shaped, its

1

www.sendiksmarket.com real food 11

Sendik’s Food Markets
community

Sendik’s Food Markets
community

Where in the World? W
EASTER ISLAND

hile the intended use of our Sendik’s shopping bags is to carry groceries, we’ve heard there are many other great uses— from toting items to the office, school, or even around the world! Here are some globetrotting customers who have put their Sendik’s bags to good use.

ARGENTiNA
Kathy in Ushuaia, Argentina

The next time you’re in a faraway place and spot a red Sendik’s bag—or you’re traveling yourself—snap a picture and send it to us at sendiksmarket.com and click on “Where in the World.” (Please provide high resolution images and include your name and a few details, if you wish.)

Jerry at South Georgia Island

SOUTH GEORGiA

Annelise on Easter Island

Mary and John at the Panama Canal

PANAMA

Matt in Champagne, France

FRANCE

Judy in Los Toros, Dominican Republic

DOMiNiCAN REPUbLiC

Anne and Katie at Mount Fuji’s 5th Station in Japan

JAPAN

WiSCONSiN
Colgate, WI

WASHiNGTON
CenturyLink Field in Seattle, WA

Sarah and Jack at the Trevi Fountain in Rome, Italy

ITALY

Bouillon Castle in Belgium

BELGiUM

Marilyn at the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey

TURKEY

Sally, Jan, Ruth, Judy, Pat, and friends at the Mall of America in Bloomington, MN

MiNNESOTA

NEW ZEALAND
Hastings, New Zealand

Erin at the Dead Sea in Israel

ISRAEL

Gary in Guilin, China

CHiNA

Sheryl at the Parthenon in Athens, Greece

GREECE

DiSTRiCT Of COLUMbiA
Washington, DC

12 real food summer 2013

www.sendiksmarket.com real food 13

Sendik’s Food Markets
cheese

Sendik’s Food Markets
food & wine

A SLICE OF GREECE
While feta is distinctly Greek, it’s delicious in most anything that calls for cheese.

A

Greek salad or spanakopita (spinach pie) wouldn’t be the same without feta cheese. It’s almost as much a part of preparing Greek food as is olive oil. But, this tangy, salty cheese works well in most any dish that calls for cheese. Officially, only cheese produced in either mainland Greece or Lesbos, which is made with at least 70 percent sheep’s milk (the remainder must be goat’s milk) and made using traditional methods, can be called feta in the European Union, according to a 2005 protected designation of origin ruling. Outside the European Union cheese made in a similar way can still be called feta. Some other countries that make fetastyle cheese include: Bulgaria, France, Israel, Hungary, Romania,Turkey, Lebanon, and the former Yugoslavia. American feta style cheese may either be made from cow

or goat’s milk. Some have a stronger flavor and others are milder. To make feta, the curds are placed in big cylinders or blocks and the large cheeses are then cut or sliced (feta means “slice” in Greek) into wedges and cubes and put in wooden barrels or large tins. It’s cured in a brine solution for a week to a few months, which is why it is sometimes called a “pickled” cheese. Feta is a good source of protein, riboflavin, vitamin B12, calcium, and phosphorus. It has a bit higher salt content than many cheeses. Tangy and moist, feta can range from crumbly to moderately creamy. Feta should be white–if it’s a bit yellow, that means the cheese has been exposed to air outside of the brine. It doesn’t have a rind or outer hard layer and can dry out and sour quickly so should be stored refrigerated, in its brine until used.You might want to rinse it before serving to remove some of

the saltiness. Use within a few days after purchasing. For best flavor, serve at room temperature. Feta makes a zesty addition to cool and cooked dishes. It pairs well with fresh summer fruit such as cantaloupe and watermelon, and is great crumbled over salads or with sliced tomatoes sprinkled with olive oil and fresh herbs. Enjoy feta in filled pies, tomato-based pastas, omelets, in sandwiches, and more. (It's not a “melting” cheese; it softens, retaining much of its original shape.) Serve as an appetizer with vegetables, ham, salami, and pickled or dried fish. Try a thin slice atop a beef burger; serve with a squeeze of lemon juice and a sprinkle of oregano for a Greek twist to a summer classic.

FARE
Wine is always a welcome guest at summer gatherings.

Summer

W

Farfalle Salad with Feta & Grilled Peppers
SerVes 4 tO 6

1 pound farfalle 2 zucchini, cut in small cubes 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 large yellow bell pepper 1 large red bell pepper 5 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 1 tablespoon salt-cured capers, rinsed zest of 1 organic lemon, yellow part only, cut in tiny pieces salt 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil + extra leaves to garnish
1. Put a large pot of salted water to boil over high heat. Cook the pasta until al dente. Add the zucchini to the pasta pan about 3 minutes 14 real food summer 2013

before the pasta is cooked. 2. Drain well and run under cold running water. Drain again and dry on a clean kitchen towel. 3. Place in a salad bowl with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Toss gently to stop the pasta and zucchini from sticking together. 4. Broil the bell peppers under an overhead broiler until the skins are blackened. Place in a plastic bag, shut tight, and let rest for 10 minutes. Peel off the skins, remove the seeds, and cut in thin strips. 5. Add the bell peppers to the salad bowl along with the feta, capers, lemon zest, salt, basil, and remaining 3 tablespoons of oil. 6. Toss well. Serve slightly chilled or at room temperature. ■

Recipe and phOtO frOm THE GOLDEN BOOK Of PASTA, cOUrtesY Of BarrOn's edUcatiOnal series 2012, All rights reserVed

hether you’re relaxing on the deck or picnicking in the park this summer, wine should always be a part of the party. Both white and red wines pair well with a range of classic summer fare—from cool salads to grilled goodies. When it comes to selecting reliable summer sippers, cr isp whites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Pinot Grigio can fit the bill—they’re light on the palate and have a clean finish.They also create flavorful combinations with salad, seafood, and chicken that make frequent tabletop appearances this time of year. Oaky Chardonnay may seem a bit rich for summer, but if you like its flavor, try French Chablis or unoaked Chardonnays. These wines can stand up to pasta salads with a mayonnaise-based dressing. You could also tr y Champagne or other sparkling wine—chicken pasta salad pairs well with rosé, for example. Wine is also a good match for burgers and brats. When pair ing these items, consider the condiments. For the classic lettuce, tomato, raw onion, ketchup, and mayonnaise atop a beef burger, Aussie Shiraz or California Syrah can stand up

to the flavor combo. Gewürztraminer and Riesling match well with sweet toppings, such as sweet pickle relish, ketchup, and barbecue sauce. And sparkling wines complement gr illed foods topped with spicy or salty condiments such as sauerkraut or mustard. If you’re grilling up some healthy veggies, uncork a cool Pinot Gr igio. If you prefer reds, try fruity blends, such as Cabernet/Merlot— the cherry/berry fruit flavors go well with grilled chicken, steaks, or burgers without condiments. When your chicken or pork has a barbecue sauce that is tangy and sweet, Riesling and Gewürztraminer are good choices. If accompanied by a spicy sauce, fruit-forward Merlot will support the spice and not compete. With Beef, Zinfandel pairs best with classic barbecue flavor. It has the fruit to match the tomato-based sauces and spice to stand up to a little bit of heat. And Pinot Gris works well with the mild spice of pork sausages or brats. For mildly smoked beef, Pinot Noir, Rioja, or Chianti can be refreshing counterparts. Flavors from a spicy dry rub or liquid solution lend big, sweet, spicy flavors, which can suppress the perception

of acidity in the wine, making it taste flat. This calls for a big wine that has some spice and oak, such as Syrah, Petite Sirah, or Zinfandel. Summer’s a great time for cool, crisp salads. As with all food and wine pairing, it’s important to balance tastes and intensity of flavors. Acidic wines such as dry German Riesling or Vinho Verde are good options to balance with the dressing. To diminish the acidity in salad dressing and make it more compatible with wine, favor more mellow options such as balsamic or rice wine vinegar.You can also try a fruit juice such as lemon, lime, orange, cranberry, or apple cider. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Noir can then make pleasing pairings with the salad. Other ingredients in a salad can also help with the pairing. Herbs in the dressing, for example, can pair with Sauvignon Blanc, Caber net Sauvignon, or Merlot. And cheese, the classic wine pal, can help boost the match, too. Blue cheese crumbled into your salad can team up successfully with slightly sweet off-dry Riesling, while toasty and buttery Parmesan or Asiago can match nicely with Chardonnay. Salmon may help your salad pair well with a lighter unoaked Chardonnay, and turkey complements a Sauvignon Blanc or Beaujolais. Even a peppery Zinfandel makes an agreeable match when grilled steak is added to the mix. Sauvignon Blanc’s acidity can counteract the garlic while its herbal quality matches the greens in a classic Caesar. Lively Sémillon cuts through the richness of smoked salmon pasta and provides an interesting counterpoint. And if a fruit salad is either a side dish or on the dessert menu, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, or Gewürztraminer can top off the meal. ■
www.sendiksmarket.com real food 15

Sendik’s Food Markets
community support

Helping Kids Reach Their Full Potential

T

he pitter-patter of little feet, playful shouts, laughter, and singsongs—these are the sounds of Penfield Children’s Center. Children throughout Milwaukee gather at the central-city building each morning anxious to see their friends, teachers, and therapists. Penfield’s mission is to help infants and young children with and without disabilities reach their full potential through education, therapy, and family programs. At a tender age when physical, cognitive, language, and social skills are formed, Penfield provides the educational and emotional support children need to exceed expectations. Serving more than 1,500 children annually, Penfield Children’s Center provides extraordinary care in a safe and stimulating environment.Through a comprehensive and holistic early intervention approach, Penfield services allow children to grow stronger, overcome obstacles, and socialize with their peers, while their families receive the support they need. Children like Myles are nurtured so that they can achieve and surpass their personal goals.

Behavior Clinic
Through a partnership with Marquette University, Penfield’s Behavior Clinic is the only home-based counseling service in Milwaukee that addresses the mental health needs of children younger than 6 years. Using individual treatment plans, clinicians work with children in their homes and teach parents effective strategies to improve behavior. Last year, clinicians provided these life-changing services for 335 children and made nearly 1,800 home visits.

Early Education and Care Program
Accredited by the National Association for the Education of Young Children (NAEYC), Penfield’s Early Education and Care Program provides a nurturing, inclusive environment where typicallydeveloping children and children with developmental delays learn and play together. Penfield also obtained a five-star rating from YoungStar, the program developed by the state of Wisconsin to improve care for children. During 2012, the Early Education and Care Program served 179 children.

Myles and the Special Care Nursery
Myles, a 19-month-old little boy with profound medical and physical needs, receives occupational, physical, and speech therapies at Penfield’s Special Care Nursery. Bor n with Down syndrome, an atrioventricular canal defect, and Tetralogy of Fallot, a condition characterized by underdeveloped chambers and holes in the heart, Myles underwent t wo n e c e s s a r y heart surger ies shortly after birth. At 7 months old, he arrived at Penfield Children’s Center after visiting several other facilities in the area. Myles’ mom, Joandy, learned about Penfield from a coworker and after receiving services explained, “I felt comfortable from the very beginning. Each time I drop him off, it feels like I’m leaving him in the care of a family member.” For children with serious health issues and developmental delays, the Nursery provides the opportunity to play, learn, and thrive while receiving quality medical care, therapy, and education. The Special Care Nursery served Myles, and 60 other children like him, in 2012. It doesn’t stop there. In addition to serving children with profound medical needs, Penfield provides a myriad of services tailored to meet the individual challenges of all their children and families.
16 real food summer 2013

Parent Mentor and Family Programs
Penfield offers a Parent Mentor program that provides guidance, encouragement, and practical assistance in raising children with special needs. As parents of children who have graduated from Penfield programs, Parent Mentors establish a relationship with incoming parents that helps to improve communication and trust between staff and families. Parent Mentors also encourage participation in Penfield’s educational workshops, support groups, early literacy events, and family celebrations.

About Penfield
Penfield Children’s Center (www.penfieldchildren.org) has been delivering comprehensive childhood development and family programs and services to low-income families and families with children who have disabilities since 1967. More than 90 percent of the families Penfield serves live at or below the federally-determined poverty level, nearly 91 percent are ethnic minorities, and most live within five miles of Penfield’s central-city location. In response to these challenges, Penfield Children’s Center provides high-quality programs and services specifically designed to foster early development and learning among children from all socioeconomic backgrounds. ■

833 North 26th Street • Milwaukee, WI 53233 www.penfieldchildren.org • Phone 414.344.7676 • Fax 414.344.7739

countertop
NEST MATE The versatile Americandesigned Big Green Egg outdoor ceramic cooker functions as a grill, oven, and even a smoker. Big Green Egg-Large with Nest Accessory, $850 (price range), biggreenegg.com PLANKED These sugar maple planks help infuse your food with a light smoky flavor while retaining natural moisture. Sugar Maple Grilling Planks, $14.95 set of 2, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com ChArcoAl goodnESS This Weber Grill makes cooking with charcoal a breeze with its one-touch ignition and removable ash catcher. Werber Performer Platinum Series Charcoal Grill, $350, Sur La Table, surlatable.com

Outdoor Grilling and Entertaining
By Rachelle Mazumdar, Director of Weddings + Events, Style-Architects style-architects.com

Hot Hot Grillin’
Fire it up in style this summer
PRODUCTION & STYLING STYLE ARCHITECTS PHOTOGRAPHY ALEX STEINBERG

STAY ORGANIZED Grilling itself can be very relaxing. But what about all the to-dos that lead up to it? Eliminate the stress by doing as much prep work as you can before the guests arrive. The last thing you want to do as a host is prep the grill, mix the drinks, and entertain your guests at the same time. BRAND YOUR BACKYARD BASH Play around with your BBQ “theme” by making it unique and one-of-a-kind. Have some fun by throwing on an “I Heart BBQ” apron or including branded elements such as a personalized BBQ cutting board, (see page 20) monogrammed brander, or monogrammed pitcher and glassware. These elements will pull everything together for a cohesive look. KEEP IT COOL Leave the sizzling for the food, not your guests. Cool off your guests by setting up outdoor umbrellas or cooling fans that will be sure to keep them well shaded and relaxed. GOODBYE BUGS Although making your backyard “bug-free” takes a lot of work, you don’t want your guests to be eaten alive. Eliminate these party crashers by treating your yard with bug fogger, citronella candles, or tiki torches! TURN GRILLING INTO AN EXPERIENCE Whether you want to throw a big backyard bash or an intimate evening get-together, grilling is a great way to entertain your guests. Encourage them to skewer their own kabobs or top their own personal pizzas. Surprise your guests by grilling the entire meal, including dessert! Style-Architects is a boutique creative services company based in Minneapolis offering imaginative and awe-inspiring events and weddings, in addition to expert wardrobe styling services. Check out their blog for more party planning tips: style-architects.com/blog.

HEAT IT UP Rare, medium to well-done; use these nifty little steak thermometers when you grill to determine your desired degree of doneness. Mini Meat Thermometers, $19.95, set of 4, Sur La Table, www.surlatable.com

GRILL MASTER Show off your love for grilling by wearing an “I Heart BBQ” apron. BBQ Heart Apron, $24.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com

PERFECT PRESS Making uniform burgers just got easier! This nonstick cast aluminum press keeps your burger preparations intact and consistently shaped. Burger Press, $24.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

WELL-SEASONED Infuse some herbal aroma into your grilling with this French Farm sea salt, harvested with sun-dried rosemary, thyme, sage, and marjoram. Butcher Salt Block, $24.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

MAKE YOUR MARK There is no mistaking the different meat temperatures when you label everyone’s preferred temps with these eco-friendly bamboo meat markers. Bamboo Meat Markers, $2.95 set of 50, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

BIG GREEN EGG COURTESY OF BIG GREEN EGG; WEBER GRILL COURTESY OF WEBER; ROASTING BOX COURTESY OF LA CAJA CHINA; ALL OTHER IMAGES BY TJ TURNER, SIDECAR STUDIOS

KEEP’N IT CLEAN These cherry striped towels are a must-have for every outdoor kitchen! These soft and thick cotton towels make drying and cleaning a breeze. Cherry Kitchen Towels, $14.95 set of 3, Sur La Table, surlatable.com THE ESSENTIALS These handsome, high-performance tools combine sleek stainless steel along with red soft-grip handles for easy grilling. Grilling Tools, $16.95 each, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

Simple, Slow Roasting
A favorite of Chef Bobby Flay's, ("Open Flames, Vibrant Flavors," p. 34) the La Caja China Roasting Box takes away much of the hastle of slow roasting large portions. The large box can roast up to a 100 pound pig, 16-18 whole chickens, 4-6 turkeys, 8-10 slabs of pork ribs, or any other meat of your choosing. La Caja China Roasting Box, $350, amazon.com

18 real food summer 2013

summer 2013 real food 19

countertop

Hot Hot Grillin’

SIZZLE & SERVE This innovative chef’s pan lets you cook a variety of foods right on your backyard grill. Steel Grill Chef’s Pan, $49.95, Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com

ALL CLEAN Take care of your grill by keeping it clean with this all-natural grill cleaner. All Natural Grill Cleaner, $12.95, Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com, Grilling Cleaning Brush, $16.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

Personalize it
Presentation matters. What better way to show off your grilling skills than to put your own monogram on your finished steaks? Personalized Monogrammed Brander, $59.95, RedEnvelope, redenvelope.com What says backyard grilling more than a pitcher of iced cold beer? Serve your guests freshly poured beer with this personalized set! Personalized Beer Pitcher, $29.95, Personalized Beer Glasses, $49.95 set of 4, RedEnvelope, redenvelope.com Finish your own customized backyard BBQ with this handcrafted, sustainable solid maple cutting board. Backyard BBQ personalized cutting board, $59.95, RedEnvelope, redenvelope.com

20 real food summer 2013

SKEwERS BY ALEX STEINBERG, SIDECAR STUDIOS; IGRILL COURTESY OF IGRILL; ALL OTHER IMAGES BY TJ TURNER, SIDECAR STUDIOS

SKEWERED These innovative combshaped skewers eliminate spinning of skewered items by holding food securely in place. Fusionbrands GrillComb Skewer Set, $19.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com

TEmp App This wireless thermometer works with an Apple or Android app to alert the user when the meat is fully cooked. iGrill, $80, iGrillinc.com

kitchen skills

Fish Grilling Tips
BY JASON ROSS
Culinary Instructor Le Cordon Bleu, Minnesota

E

verybody loves the grill. It’s the most basic and ancient of all cooking techniques, used for hamburgers, steaks, chops, and also pizzas, yet the idea of grilling fish leaves even experienced cooks intimidated. If visions of stuck and broken fish, which is charred and raw in the center, flames your fears, try using these simple tips and taste how great fish can be hot off the grill.

GRiLLeD CHeRMOULA SALMON “FiLeT MigNON” (ReciPe PAge 24)

Grilling Fish
Grilling fish is just like grilling anything else. The same general rules apply, except fish is more fragile, wet, and likely to stick. A little more care and thought can help get better results.
1. Choose the right fish. Meatier fish with firmer flesh are easier to grill. Thin, flakey fish are more likely to stick and cause problems. Some meaty fish that grill well include salmon, tuna, and swordfish. 2. Grill fish steaks instead of filets. Fish steaks have less exposed flakes and strata, are less fragile, and less likely to stick than filets. 3. Grill whole. For small to mediumsized fish, consider grilling fish whole and scaled. The skin and bone give the fish some structure and support. For whole grilled fish, cut slits in the skin and flesh of the fish to allow marinades and the flavor of the grill to penetrate the fish. Some fish that work well grilled whole include trout, Spanish mackerel, fresh sardines, and snapper. 4. Cut fish into reasonable sized pieces. Typical serving sizes range from 4 to 12 ounces. If the fish is too large and cumbersome to flip easily, trim it down into smaller portions. 5. Use a metal spatula. Tongs are great on the grill for steaks and hot dogs or sausages, but fish is more fragile and tears easily. Spatulas help support grilled fish and make it easier to get everything to the dinner table in one piece. 6. Consider a restaurant cheat. Many restaurants use grills to get quick grill marks, leaving the fish raw in the center, and then finish it in an oven. At home try “marking” the fish on the grill, then finishing it on an ovenproof platter or pan on a cool side of the grill with the lid closed.

TRICKS of the TRADE:

Grilling Basics

Heat and oil it. Make sure the grill is hot, scraped clean with a wire brush, and well oiled, which helps the formation of a good crust and prevents sticking. A tip: Use a rolled and tied towel to oil the grill, periodically dipping it in oil and brushing the grill.
PHOTOS BY tERRy bRENNAN; FooD StyLED by LARA MIKLASEVICS

Dry it. Wet foods stick easily to the grill. Dry foods with a towel, season, and apply a thin layer of oil with a brush. Mark it. French cooks call grill marks, quadrillage, literally meaning marked in a square pattern. Besides looking nice, quadrillage marks carry much of the grill flavor. To get great grill marks, simply grill, rotate, flip, and rotate the grilled foods, giving each step equal time to build a good even char. Resist the urge to touch or disturb the grilled foods beyond these four steps.
continued on page 24

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kitchen skills

Grilled Chermoula Salmon “Filet Mignon”
MAKes 6 SeRviNgs

Fish steaks work great on the grill, but some people do not like the bones. Here is a technique to get steaks that look like filet mignon, without any bones. Also, try using Chermoula marinade with whole cooked fish.
2¼ pounds salmon filet, skinned 1½ cups Chermoula Marinade (recipe below) 12 6-inch skewers 1. Heat and prepare the grill. 2. Divide salmon into 12 pieces of equal width, roughly ¾ inch thick. 3. Start with two pieces. Curl one of them into a C-like shape, and curl the other into a backward facing C-like shape. The skinned side of the pieces should form the inside of the “Cs.” 4. Push the two pieces of salmon together, into each other, forming a kind of “ying-yang” symbol and circle. 5. Use two skewers to hold the filets together. 6. Repeat the process with the other ten pieces. 7. Use ²⁄3 of marinade to rub generously on fish, reserving the other ¹⁄3 to be used as a finishing sauce after grilling fish. Refrigerate fish in a pan for at least 30 minutes. Do not marinate overnight. The lemon juice will start to “cook” the fish. 8. Remove fish from the marinade and pat dry with a paper towel. 9. Grill fish until done using a general rule of thumb of roughly 8 minutes per inch of thickness, or 4 minutes per side. Rotate fish a quarter turn on each side to get even grill marks. Check for doneness by feel. The fish should feel firm. Fish that still feels soft will be rare in the center. 10. Before serving, remove skewers carefully. 11. Serve remaining Chermoula as a sauce, spooning it over hot fish or on the side. 3.

4.

Grilling Basics
continued from page 22

North African Chermoula Marinade
MAKes 1 CUP

Keep a cool spot. When grilled foods get too hot, a cool spot on the grill is a great place to quickly save foods from burning. It can also be used to keep foods warm on an ovensafe container as they wait for other foods to finish cooking. Marinate it. Use marinades for extra flavor and to keep grilled foods moist. Finish it. A little butter, olive oil, or reserved marinade gives the food flavor and a little shine and luster after the drying that results from the direct heat of the grill.

Chermoula is the classic marinade for fish in countries such as Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria. The full-flavored mixture can be made mild or spicy, depending on how much cayenne is added.
¼ cup minced parsley ¼ cup minced cilantro 1 tablespoon paprika ½ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon ground black pepper pinch cayenne pepper 1½ teaspoons salt 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup lemon juice or roughly juice of 1 lemon ¾ cup olive oil 1. With a spatula, mix all ingredients, except olive oil, together in a mixing bowl. 2. Mix in the olive oil. 3. Marinade will store in a jar or container for up to 1 week, but its flavor is best during the first day. 

5.

7.

GRILLEd ChERmOULA SALmON “FILET MIgNON”: PER SERVING: CALORIES 415 (276 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 5g); CHOL 82mg; SODIUM 510mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 32g

24 real food summer 2013

NUTRITION

, That s

Amore
Love the taste of wood-fired pizza from a restaurant? Look no farther than your backyard to start making your own versions. The team that wrote the book on just that, Pizza on the Grill, shares tips for distinguishing your pizzas from the everyday pie. Apart from starting with special techniques to achieve a perfectly crisp, golden brown, crunchy, smoky crust each time, they do whatever it takes to infuse maximum flavor into each of the components that make the pizza, such as the sauces and toppings.The resulting layers of flavor make the pizzas—like the those from gourmet restaurants—taste so much better than your average pie. Plus, what attracted them to this delectable and versatile food is that it takes little effort and so few tools for a big reward. Whether you prefer marvelous and meatless or savory sausage, anyway you slice it, if you have a grill and the will, you can master grilled pizza. BY ELIZAbeTH KARMeL AND BOb BLUMeR

Stretch your grilling repertoire with layers of flavor atop crisp, smoky pizza pie.

BOLLYWOOD CHUTNEY CHIcKEN PIZZA (REcIpE pAGE 33)

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Queen Margherita Pizza
SERVES 2 TO 4

Master Instructions
Basic Pizza Dough
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 2 pIZZA cRUSTS

The original pizza was created by an Italian baker from Naples in honor of Queen Margherita. The red, white, and green ingredients were his homage to the Italian flag. The beauty of a Margherita is in the simplicity of its fresh ingredients.
¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1  ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe at right) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup Crushed Tomato Sauce (recipe below) 1 large clove garlic, minced 8  ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ¼-inchthick slices (or 1 cup grated if fresh is unavailable) 10 fresh basil leaves kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Preheat the grill, roll out and shape the dough, and grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions for gas or charcoal on page 31. Use tongs to transfer it to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. 2. Spread the entire surface with the sauce, sprinkle with the garlic, and top with the cheese. Finish grilling the pizza per the master instructions. 3. Remove from the grill, garnish with the basil, and season with salt and pepper. Slice and serve immediately. Wine Partner: Chianti Classico is a popular wine from Tuscany made from the Sangiovese grape. Its high acid content makes it a natural pairing for Italian dishes or any dish that features naturally acidic tomato sauce.

This is a basic white pizza dough; to make whole-wheat dough, use a combination of whole-wheat and white bread flour. The best ratio is 25 percent whole grain flour and 75 percent all-purpose flour. If you use too much whole grain flour, the crust will be leaden, not light and airy.
1  cup lukewarm water, plus extra as needed ¼  cup olive oil, plus extra for oiling the bowl 1 teaspoon sugar or honey 1  package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons) 3  cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra as needed ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1. Place the water, oil, and sugar in a large bowl. Sprinkle the yeast on top and let sit until foamy, about 5 minutes. 2. In a medium bowl, combine the flour and salt. Add to the water mixture, ½ cup at a time, until well incorporated. If the dough is stiff, add more water. If it is very sticky, add extra flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough is soft and slightly sticky. Continue to mix until it feels elastic. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface. Knead for just about 1 minute, until just smooth and easy to work with, adding extra flour to the surface as necessary to prevent the dough from sticking. Do not overwork the dough or it will be tough. Place the dough in an oiled clean bowl, turn it several times to coat all over with the oil, then drizzle the top of the dough with a little oil. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, place in a warm spot, and let rise until it more than doubles in volume, about 1 hour. 3. Punch the dough down and knead on a lightly floured surface for 1 to 2 minutes, until smooth. Divide into two equal-size balls and proceed with your pizza making. (The dough may be made ahead, frozen for up to a month, and thawed at room temperature before using.)

Crushed Tomato Sauce
MAKES 1½ cUpS

1  14.5-ounce can crushed tomatoes with or without basil, undrained 1 clove garlic, minced sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Pour the crushed tomatoes into a small nonreactive metal or glass bowl. Add the garlic and season with salt and pepper. Drain the excess liquid from the tomatoes and discard. Note: If you cannot find crushed tomatoes, pour a can of stewed plum tomatoes into a food mill, blender, or a food processor and purée.

QUEEN MARGHERITA PIZZA WITH cRUSHED TOmATO SAUcE

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Onion Marmalade
MAKES 1 cUp, ENOUGH FOR 1 pIZZA

Master Instructions
The Charcoal Grill Method
1

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter (or salted and reduce the salt a bit) 3  large yellow onions, thinly sliced and roughly separated into rings 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1. Heat the oil and butter together in a large, heavy sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter bubbles, add the onion rings and salt and cook, covered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are all a deep golden color, about 20 more minutes. This will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

The Gas Grill Method
1 Preheat the grill by setting all the burners on high. After lighting, close the lid and leave on high for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat of all the burners to medium.

Build a fire by lighting 50 to 60 charcoal briquettes in either a chimney starter or in a pyramid-shaped mound on the bottom grate of your grill. Once the briquettes have become gray-ashed (20 to 30 minutes), move them all to one side of the grill.

Meanwhile, sprinkle your work surface with the grits or polenta. Place the dough in the middle of the surface. You can either roll out the dough with a rolling pin, stretch it out with your hands, or press it out from the center against the work surface. Ideally, you want a 12-inch by 6-inch, organically shaped piece of dough—a rectangle—¹⁄8 to ¼ inch thick (err on the thinner side for thin-crust pizza and on the thicker side for thick-crust pizza). Drizzle or brush both sides generously with oil. Our recipes call for 2 tablespoons, but we tend to use more oil when making our own pizzas, which results in a thinner and crispier crust.
2 3

Meanwhile, sprinkle your work surface with the grits or polenta. Place the dough in the middle of the surface. You can either roll out the dough with a rolling pin, stretch it out with your hands, or press it out from the center against the work surface. Ideally, you want a 12-inch, organically shaped piece of dough—round, square, or rectangular—¹⁄8 to ¼ inch thick (err on the thinner side for thin-crust pizza and on the thicker side for thick-crust pizza). Drizzle or brush both sides generously with oil. Our recipes call for 2 tablespoons, but we tend to use more oil when making our own pizzas, which results in a thinner and crispier crust.
2 3

Fire-Roasted Tomato & Cabrales Pizza
SERVES 2 TO 4

We love all blue cheeses, and Cabrales is one of our favorites. Cabrales is a Spanish cheese that has the sharpest, tangiest bite of all the blues.The simple accompanying ingredients in this pizza allow it to sing out loud and proud.
¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1 ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe page 29) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup Onion Marmalade (recipe at right) 1¼ cups Fire-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes (recipe at right) 4 ounces Cabrales or your favorite blue cheese, crumbled ¼ cup pecan pieces, toasted and chopped freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Preheat the grill, roll out and shape the dough, and grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions for gas or charcoal on page 31. Use tongs to transfer it to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. 2. Spread the entire surface with the onion marmalade. Top with the tomatoes and sprinkle with the cheese. Finish grilling the pizza per the master instructions. 3. Remove the pizza from the grill, garnish with the nuts, and season with pepper. Slice and serve immediately. To toast nuts, preheat the oven to 300°F. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet in a single layer and bake until golden brown, 5 to 15 minutes, depending on the nut variety. Turn once during cooking. Let cool before using. Wine Partner: Most people think the only thing to drink with a blue cheese is a red wine. We beg to differ. We love a sparkling Spanish Cava with Cabrales— whether it is on its own or melted over our pizza.

Fire-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes
MAKES 40 TOmATOES

Pick up the dough by the two corners closest to you. In one motion, lay it down flat—over the side without briquettes—on the cooking grate from back to front (as you would set a tablecloth down on a table). Close the lid and grill for 3 minutes (no peeking!), then rotate the crust 180 degrees and continue grilling until the bottom is well marked and evenly browned, another 2 to 3 minutes.

Pick up the dough by the two corners closest to you. In one motion, lay it down flat on the cooking grate from back to front (as you would set a tablecloth down on a table). Close the lid and grill for 3 minutes (no peeking!), then check the crust and, if necessary, continue grilling a few more minutes until the bottom is well marked and nicely browned.

40  cherry tomatoes (we like those sold on the vine) 1  teaspoon olive oil or as needed to coat 1 cup kosher salt 1. Preheat a gas grill, build a charcoal fire, or preheat the oven to 275°F. 2. Lightly coat the tomatoes with the oil. Cover a rimmed baking sheet with the salt to form a “salt bed.” Place the tomatoes closely together bottom side down on the salt bed. Place sheet on the grill on the cooking grate over low indirect heat or in the oven. Slowly roast until the tomatoes are shriveled and soft, about 2 hours. Remove from the grill or oven and let cool. They will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

4 Use tongs to transfer the crust from the grill to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Close the lid of the grill. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. Follow the specific recipe directions for adding any sauce, toppings, and/or cheese. 5

4 Use tongs to transfer the crust from the grill to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Close the lid of the grill. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. Follow the specific recipe directions for adding any sauce, toppings, and/or cheese. 5 Switch the grill to indirect heat by turning off the center burner(s) if you have a three- or four-burner grill. For a twoburner grill, turn off one burner. Set the pizza back on the grate over indirect heat (the unlit section) and grill, with the lid down, until the bottom is well browned and the cheese is melted, 7 to 10 minutes. For two-burner grills, rotate the pizza halfway through the cooking time. 6

Set the pizza back on the grate over the side without briquettes and grill, with the lid down, for 4 to 5 minutes. Rotate the pizza 180 degrees and continue to grill with the lid down until the bottom is well browned and cheese is melted, another 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the grill, garnish, and season as directed. Slice and serve immediately.

6

Remove from the grill, garnish, and season as directed. Slice and serve immediately.

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Sausage & Sweet Pepper Pizza
SERVES 2 TO 4

Little Italy's favorite street sandwich—Italian sausage and peppers—comes to life on top of this crisp, smoky crust. This way you get more toppings and less bread. Now that's amore!
1  pound sweet or hot Italian sausage, taken out of the casings, if necessary ¼  cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1  ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe page 29) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1  cup Tuscan Red Sauce (recipe right) or Crushed Tomato Sauce (recipe page 29) ¼ cup pickled sweet and hot peppers, sliced 1 cup grated mozzarella cheese ½ cup grated Monterey Jack cheese 1  teaspoon B&E Sprinkle-icious Spice Blend (recipe below right) or favorite spice blend  kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Place the sausage in a large, heavy skillet. Sauté over medium heat, breaking up any large pieces, until fully cooked. Alternatively, grill the sausage in its casing and slice before using. Drain on paper towels and reserve for topping. 2. Preheat the grill, roll out and shape the dough, and grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions for gas or charcoal on page 31. Use tongs to transfer it to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. 3. Spread the entire surface with the sauce. Top with the sausage and peppers, then sprinkle with the cheeses. Finish grilling the pizza per the master instructions. 4. Remove from the grill, sprinkle with the spice blend, and season with salt and pepper. Slice and serve immediately. Palate Partner: Pick up a six-pack of Italian beer.

Tuscan Red Sauce
MAKES AbOUT 2½ cUpS

2  pounds (about 10) plum tomatoes 5 fresh sage leaves 1 teaspoon kosher salt 4  cloves garlic, roughly chopped 1  tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, or more to taste 1. Place a 4- or 5-quart saucepan on the stove. Break each tomato open by squeezing it with your hand over the saucepan. Once each tomato is cracked, place it in the pan. Add the sage, salt, and garlic and cover. 2. Cook over medium heat for 45 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. The tomatoes will break down and liquefy as they cook. When the tomatoes are thick and saucy (about the texture of ketchup), remove from the heat. Let cool to room temperature. 3. Process the sauce through a food mill or strainer to remove the seeds and skins, then adjust the seasonings. Whisk in the oil.

Bollywood Chutney Chicken Pizza
SERVES 2 TO 4

Indian flavors and Bollywood movies are quickly gaining popularity in America— and for good reason. Both are richly layered, colorful, spicy, and slightly chaotic. Why not take a break from the ordinary by making this pizza and watching a Bollywood classic?
¾ cup plain full-fat yogurt 1 teaspoon garam masala (an Indian spice blend) 1 teaspoon cracked coriander seeds 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons peeled and grated fresh ginger 2 cloves garlic, minced juice of 1 lemon 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon turmeric 2  boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (1 pound total) ¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1 ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe page 29) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup mango chutney (Major Grey’s) ½ cup grated smoked mozzarella cheese 1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and diced leaves from 3 sprigs fresh mint ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes continued on page 34

B&E Sprinkle-icious Spice Blend
MAKES ½ cUp

Enhance any pizza, salad, or flatbread with a shake or two.
1 tablespoon dehydrated onion 1 tablespoon roasted dehydrated garlic 2  teaspoons dried lemon peel ½  teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2  teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.

SAUSAGE & SWEET PEppER PIZZA

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continued from page 33

1. In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, garam masala, coriander, half the onion, the ginger, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and turmeric. Add the chicken and stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. 2. Thirty minutes before you want to make the pizza, preheat the grill per the master instructions for gas or charcoal (page 31). 3. Remove the chicken from the marinade and place on the cooking grate directly over the heat. Grill until no pink remains in the middle, 5 to 8 minutes per side, depending on thickness. Reserve for topping and slice just before topping. 4. Roll out and shape the dough, then grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions. Use tongs to transfer it from the grill to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. 5. Spread the entire surface with the chutney. Top with the chicken and the remaining onion. Sprinkle with the cheese and diced mango. Finish grilling the pizza per the master instructions. 6. Remove from the grill and sprinkle with the mint and red pepper. Slice and serve immediately. Mix it Up: Knead ¼ cup caramelized onions into the dough.

Very Berry Pizza
SERVES 2 TO 4

Now you can enjoy all your favorite antioxidants and eat your pizza, too.
1 cup ricotta cheese ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 5 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger zest of ½ lemon, finely grated with a micro plane or zester 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, for kneading the dough ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe page 29) ¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 2 tablespoons vegetable oil (such as canola) or nut oil (such as walnut) ½ pint fresh blueberries, picked over ½ pint fresh raspberries, picked over ¼ cup honey 1. Combine the ricotta, vanilla, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, the ginger, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Reserve for topping. 2. Sprinkle the work surface with the flour. Mix the remaining 3 tablespoons sugar with the cinnamon and knead it into the dough. Set aside until ready to make pizza. 3. Preheat the grill, roll out and shape the dough, and grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions for gas or charcoal on page 31. Use tongs to turn the crust over. Continue grilling until the bottom crust is well browned. (Since you’re not melting cheese or warming toppings, you don’t need to switch to indirect heat.) 4. Remove from the grill and immediately spread it evenly with the ricotta mixture. Let your inner artist dictate how you arrange the berries over the top. Finish with a generous drizzle of honey. Slice and serve immediately. 

pHOTOS AND REcIpES FROm PIZZA ON THE GRILL bY ELIZAbETH KARmEL AND bOb bLUmER. pHOTOGRApHY bY cHRISTOpHER HIRSHEImER; COpYRIGHT © 2008 THE TAUNTON pRESS

NUTRITION

QUEEN MARGHERITA PIZZA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 648 (336 from fat); FAT 38g (sat. 13g); CHOL 53mg; SODIUM 617mg; CARB 58g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 25g

FIRE-ROASTED TOmATO & CABRALES PIZZA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 816 (430 from fat); FAT 49g (sat. 14g); CHOL 39mg; SODIUM 1607mg; CARB 78g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 20g

SAUSAGE & SwEET PEppER PIZZA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 1019 (573 from fat); FAT 64g (sat. 21g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 2244mg; CARB 65g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 44g

BOLLYwOOD CHUTNEY CHIcKEN PIZZA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 789 (241 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 7g); CHOL 67mg; SODIUM 434mg; CARB 105g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 32g

VERY BERRY pIZZA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 828 (265 from fat); FAT 30g (sat. 10g); CHOL 42mg; SODIUM 160mg; CARB 125g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 18g

VERY BERRY PIZZA

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SPICY SALMON BURGERs WITH CILANTRO PEsTO (RECIPE PAGE 40)

The Flip Side
We asked Real Food contributors Bruce Aidells, Robin Asbell, Serena Bass, and Jason Ross to share their favorite burger recipes that offer a flavorful twist on one of summer’s favorite foods—all sans beef. Our roundup, featuring tasty turkey, salmon, pork, lamb, and veggie burgers, will help you spice things up during prime burger season and beyond.

TURKEY BURGER WITH APPLE, LEMON, AND BAsIL (RECIPE PAGE 42)

PHOTOGRApHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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ROBIN AsBELL AUTHOR/COOKING INSTRUCTOR
These burgers are reminiscent of the Mediterranean, with the classic combo of chickpeas, sesame, and lemon. This recipe yields a chewy burger that tastes like hummus, with a crispy coating of toasty sesame seeds for crunch. — Robin Asbell

Chickpea Sesame Burgers with Cucumber Yogurt Sauce
MAKEs 4 bURGERs

½ cup rolled oats 1  14.5-ounce can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained ¼ cup tahini 1 large egg ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon fresh lemon zest 1 teaspoon cumin 1 large scallion, minced 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped ½ cup brown sesame seeds 1 tablespoon oil 4 whole-wheat hamburger buns Cucumber Yogurt Sauce ¼ cup cucumber, seeded and chopped ½ cup Greek yogurt ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon dried dill (or 2 teaspoons fresh) 1 tomato, sliced 1. P ut oats in bowl of a food processor and pulse three times to roughly chop. Add half of beans and pulse to a coarse paste. Add tahini, egg, salt, lemon zest, and cumin, and process to mix well, about 1 minute. Add remaining beans, scallions, and parsley, and pulse to coarsely chop beans. 2. P ut sesame seeds in center of a large, flat plate. Using a lightly oiled ¹⁄3-cup measure, divide bean mixture into four portions, tapping out onto sesame seeds. Turn to coat and move to perimeter of plate. Gently press to create ¾-inch-thick burgers. Chill 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a medium bowl, stir together all ingredients. Will keep up to 3 days covered in refrigerator. 4. Preheat a large skillet or cast-iron pan on high 1 minute, then coat with oil. The pan should be very hot. Place burgers in hot oil. When they start to sizzle, reduce heat to medium. Cook 2 to 3 minutes on one side to brown and form a crust, then carefully flip. Cook another 3 minutes, flipping if necessary, until burgers are firm when pressed. Toast buns if desired. Serve each burger with 2 tablespoons sauce and a slice of tomato.

Tips for Entertaining Outdoors
1 Always set up your food table in the shade— and consider the movement of the sun!
OutDooR MaRKEt UmBRELLa, $649 - $740, FRoNtgatE, www.fRoNtgatE.com

2 Buy see-through, folding mesh food covers to protect against insects. 3 Don’t dilute fruit juices or sangria with ice cubes in the pitcher; instead pour beverage over ice in individual glasses. 4 Keep bug spray, suntan lotion, burn cream, antihistamine cream, and Band-Aids readily available. It’s a tough world in the garden!
—Serena Bass

CHICKPEA SEsAME BURGER WITH CUCUMbER YOGURT SAUCE

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SErENa Bass CATERER TO THE STARS
These burgers are of a delicate consistency and cook best in a nonstick pan with a little vegetable oil. Or, to avoid getting stuck in the kitchen if everyone is hanging out in the garden, just make sure they are firmly packed and lay them gently on a very well greased grill. They are great hot or at room temperature, and are a little bit lip-tingly spicy. Can’t take the heat? Cut out the jalapeño and/or the Sriracha. —Serena Bass

Potato Crisps
MAKEs 6 sERVINGs

A lot of the work for these delicious crisps can be done ahead of time. If you start the process the day before, bring the par-cooked potato slices back to room temperature (about 2 hours out of the refrigerator) before cooking; otherwise they will cool the oil and take ages to cook. I love these dipped in Seasoned Ketchup (below).
4 russet potatoes, unpeeled 4 cups peanut or canola oil 1 bunch rosemary 1 bunch thyme kosher salt to taste pepper to taste, optional

Spicy Salmon Burgers with Cilantro Pesto
MAKEs 8 bURGERs

Cilantro Pesto 2 cups lightly packed cilantro leaves 2  tablespoons fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped ½ cup toasted macadamia nuts 4 ounces goat cheese 1½ tablespoons fresh lime juice ½  jalapeño, seeded and roughly chopped, or to taste 2 medium cloves garlic, chopped ¼  to ½ teaspoon salt, depending on saltiness of goat cheese ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 extra-large egg 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 teaspoons Sriracha chili sauce 1  pound center-cut salmon, diced into ¼-inch cubes ¹⁄3 cup finely diced red pepper ¹⁄3 cup finely diced yellow pepper ¹⁄3 cup diced red onions 1 tablespoon finely diced jalapeño 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ¼ cup panko breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 1½ teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 8  soft hamburger buns

1. For the pesto: Blend together all ingredients to form a rough, creamy paste. Will keep up to 2 days covered in the refrigerator. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together egg, mayonnaise, and Sriracha. Fold in salmon. 3. Add remaining ingredients and mix together. Refrigerate at least 4 hours and up to overnight; this helps breadcrumbs swell to hold together burgers. 4. Using ½ cup of mixture and slightly damp hands, form ¾-inch-thick burgers. (Note that you can vary the burger size to match buns.) 5. Cook over medium heat on a well-greased grill 2 to 3 minutes per side. Or cook in a nonstick pan: Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil to medium and cook burgers 3 minutes per side. 6. Serve with a thin layer of pesto spread over warm, grilled bun or dolloped right on top of burger. Cook’s Notes: The easiest way to dice salmon is to ensure fish is very cold and use a sharp knife. Stack two skinned fillets and cut into ¼-inch dice.

1. Using a mandolin or sharp knife, cut potatoes into ¹⁄8-inch-thick slices. Soak 30 minutes in a bowl of cold water. Remove from water and pat as dry as possible. 2. Heat oil to 300°F (using a candy thermometer) in a deep pan. The oil should be about 4 inches deep. Cook potatoes a few handfuls at a time until soft but not browned. 3. Using a slotted spoon, remove potatoes to a sheet pan. Reserve oil. When all potatoes are par-cooked, set aside until ready to make crisps (up to 24 hours). 4. Heat pan and reserved oil to 350°F. Add potatoes to slightly crowd pan; this will cause them to curl rather than cook flat. Cook, stirring constantly with a slotted spoon, 4 to 5 minutes. 5. With the second batch, add a couple stalks rosemary and thyme about 1 minute before crisps are done. Herbs should be crisp but not brown. (If you are only making one batch, the herbs can be added at the end of that process.) 6. Using a slotted spoon, remove to paper towels, dust with salt and optional pepper, and serve in a parchment paper lined bowl with the herbs set on top of the potato crisps.

Seasoned Ketchup
MAKEs 3 CUPs

This is a complex and grown-up ketchup, addictive to people who like to push the boundaries of taste. Probably not the best thing for kids or tail-gating traditionalists but I think you'll love it. It's also amazing in sandwiches with smoked turkey or with cheddar cheese and crunchy lettuce.
2 cups tomato ketchup ²⁄3  cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and chopped 2 tablespoons chopped sage 2 tablespoons crushed garlic 2  tablespoons Columela sherry vinegar 1  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Using a food processor, blend together all ingredients 2 minutes. Will keep up to 3 weeks covered in refrigerator.

This pesto can be used in many ways: • Add a big spoonful to vinaigrette for a green salad • Thin the mixture and zig-zag onto cold tomato or cucumber soup • Toss with cooked, cooled new potatoes • Serve with grilled fish, chicken, or shrimp • Great in tomato and mozzarella sandwiches • And on and on!

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JasON rOss CULINARY INSTRUCTOR SErENa Bass CONTINUED
The wonderful thing about this turkey burger is that it is just as delicious as a side at brunch coupled with scrambled eggs and bacon. Or chop up any leftovers and mix into a fresh tomato sauce served over spaghetti. Never has a turkey worked so hard! —Serena Bass I love lamb—the flavor, the fat, and more than anything the feeling, the idea of lamb. Eating lamb somehow feels special and exotic, like an ancient rite from a Mediterranean shore. Likewise, a lamb burger makes for a special burger, one best cooked on an open grill with hints of faraway flavors. This one features Manchego cheese and piquillo peppers. —Jason Ross

Creating Healthy, Flavorful Foods
1 Fresh herbs added at the last

Lamb Burger with Piquillo Peppers and Manchego
MAKEs 6 BURGERs

Turkey Burgers with Apple, Lemon, and Basil
MAKEs 8 bURGERs

minute are the key to great flavor. As much as we just want to get the cooking over with, food will taste exponentially better if fresh herbs are added just before serving.
2 Chefs talk a lot about “finishing” a dish. This means giving dishes a final grind of black pepper, squeeze of lemon juice, or dusting of crunchy sea salt just before serving. Use Maldon salt for its delicate flakes. 3 White balsamic vinegar is a new favorite of mine. It has a mature and complex flavor that isn’t too sharp. Toss new potatoes (which have been simmered in salted water until cooked through) with it (rather than mayonnaise), add a handful of chopped scallions, and you’ve got a delicious side dish! 4 Instead of using an oil-heavy vinaigrette, I like to roast plumtomato halves (cut sides up) with a splash of olive oil, salt, and pepper at 300°F for 1 hour. Toss the room-temperature tomatoes with lettuces to create a juicy, tomato-based dressing. 5 And don't forget: You can always skip the bun and serve burgers on a pile of leafy greens.
—Serena Bass

Parsley-Black Pepper Aioli 1 tablespoon minced parsley 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon cold water ½ cup mayonnaise 2¼ pounds ground lamb 6 canned piquillo or roasted peppers 6 potato buns olive oil salt to taste pepper to taste ½  pound young Manchego cheese, sliced thin 1  small red onion, sliced thin

2 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup packed shallots, diced ¾  cup Gala or Golden Delicious apples, diced 1½ teaspoons salt 1 pound ground turkey 2 extra-large eggs 2  tablespoons fresh basil, minced 2  teaspoons finely minced lemon zest ¾  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½  cup packed fresh breadcrumbs or panko ¼ cup half-and-half 8 soft hamburger buns 1. Heat oil in a medium pan over medium heat. Add shallots, apples, and ½ teaspoon salt. Sauté 8 minutes, until translucent. Set aside to cool. 2. Put turkey, eggs, basil, lemon zest, remaining salt, and pepper in a bowl. Add shallot mixture, breadcrumbs, and half-and-half, and gently but thoroughly mix together. 3. Set aside at least 1 hour, preferably overnight. 4. Divide into 8 equal burgers. Cook over medium heat on a well-greased grill 2 minutes per side. Remove from heat and let rest 5 minutes before serving. Serving suggestion: Serve with a thin slice of tomato, some torn fresh basil leaves, and mayonnaise in a soft hamburger bun.

1. For the aioli: In a small bowl, combine all ingredients except mayonnaise. Add mayonnaise to mixture, stirring until fully combined. Will keep up to 1 week covered in refrigerator but is best served same day as color will fade and eventually turn brown. 2. Heat and prepare grill. Form lamb into 6 burgers slightly wider than buns. Don’t overwork or compress to ensure a tender, meaty texture. 3. Split open peppers so they lay flat in a single layer on buns. Brush buns with oil. 4. Season burgers with salt and pepper. Cook to desired temperature (I prefer lamb burgers cooked to medium, with any fats warmed and melted). Toast buns on grill. 5. To assemble, spread aioli on inside faces of bun. Place peppers on bottom bun, followed by burger, onion, cheese, and top of bun. Serve.

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BrUcE AIDELLs COOKbOOK AUTHOR
I like this burger because it captures the delights of Spanish cooking, in particular the flavors of chorizo, which is often used in dishes such as paella, stews, or soups. Because it can be difficult to find real Spanish chorizo in this country, I have added some of the chorizo ingredients—pimentón de la Vera (Spanish smoky paprika), garlic, piquillo peppers (intense Spanish pimientos), and cinnamon—to fresh ground pork to yield a delicious profile. (Adapted from The Great Meat Cookbook by Bruce Aidells with Anne-Marie Ramo) —Bruce Aidells

Spanish-Style Pork Burgers with Saffron-Pimiento Mayonnaise
MAKEs 4 bURGERs

SPANIsH-STYLE PORK BURGER WITH SAffRON-PIMIENTO MAYONNAIsE

Saffron-Pimiento Mayonnaise 2 tablespoons diced piquillo pepper or pimiento ½ cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon lemon zest pinch Spanish saffron 1½ pounds 80% lean ground pork ¼ cup finely diced piquillo pepper or pimiento 1½  tablespoons pimentón de la Vera or mild Hungarian paprika pinch cinnamon ½ teaspoon sugar 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup shredded Manchego cheese 4 large French rolls, split and toasted 1 heirloom tomato, sliced thinly 8 small hearts of romaine lettuce leaves

1. For the mayonnaise: Stir together all ingredients until well-blended. Will keep up to 1 week covered in refrigerator. 2. Drop ground pork into a mixing bowl. Add piquillos, paprika, cinnamon, sugar, garlic, salt, and pepper. Using your hands, gently blend until just mixed (don’t overmix). Form into 4 1-inch-thick burgers roughly the size of the rolls. Set aside. (You can make these ahead and refrigerate up to 4 hours.) 3. To cook, grill over medium hot coals 4 minutes. Flip and grill 3 minutes. Cover burgers with cheese, cover grill, and cook 1 minute more, until cheese begins to melt. Remove from grill. 4. Slather inside faces of rolls with mayonnaise. Place burger on bottom half of bun, then top with tomato and lettuce. Cover with top half of bun and serve. 

If you can't find a young Manchego cheese, which is milder, use Asiago.

CHICKPEA SESAME BURGERS W. YOGURT SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 552 (247 from fat); FAT 2 9 g ( s a t . 5 g ) ; CHOL 49mg; SODIUM 1000mg; CARB 53g; FIBER 13g; PROTEIN 25g

SPICY SALMON bURGERS W. CILANTRO PESTO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 371 (175 from fat); FAT 2 0 g ( s a t . 5 g ) ; CHOL 67mg; SODIUM 872mg; CAR B 2 6 g ; F I B ER 3 g ; PROTEIN 22g

TURKEY BURGERS W. APPLE, LEMON, & BASIL: PER SERVING: CALORIES 190 (98 from fat); FAT 1 1 g ( s a t . 3 g ) ; CHOL 98mg; SODIUM 551mg; CAR B 9 g ; F I B ER 1 g ; PROTEIN 14g

POTATO CRISPS W. SEASONED KETCHUP (1TbSP): PER SERVING: CALORIES 195 (83 from fat); FAT 9 g ( s a t . 2 g ) ; CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 124mg; CAR B 2 7 g ; F I B ER 3 g ; PROTEIN 2g

LAMb BURGER W. PIQUILLO PEPPERS & MANCHEGO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 723 (450 from fat); FAT 5 1 g ( s a t . 1 9 g ) ; CHOL 158mg; SODIUM 1262mg; CAR B 2 5 g ; F I B ER 2 g ; PROTEIN 41g

SPANISH-STYLE PORK BURGERS W. MAYONNAISE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 864 (476 from fat); FAT 5 4 g ( s a t . 1 7 g ) ; CHOL 152mg; SODIUM 1578mg; CAR B 4 5 g ; F I B ER 4 g ; PROTEIN 51g

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NUTRITION

summer 2013 real food 45

p Fire U
THE VEGGIES
Delectable summertime sides made almost too easy.
BY MARIE SImmONs
PHOTOGRApHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
GRILLED CORN WITH SPIcY CHIPOTLE HONEY BUTTER AND ZUccHINI AND SUMMER SQUAsH WITH DRIED TOMATO AND CAPER VINAIgRETTE (REcIPEs PAgE 50)

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Grilling, the great American pastime, makes summer meals a snap. Simply fire up the grill, throw
poultry, meat, or fish on one side, add fresh vegetables on the other, and in no time, dinner is served! Tired of the usual side dishes? Take your grilled vegetables to new heights with these delicious recipes.

GRILLED PORTObELLO MUsHROOMs WITH TOAsTED SEsAME AND ScALLION SAUcE

Carrots and Leeks with Carrot Top, Parsley and Toasted-Almond Pesto
MAKEs 4 sERvINgs

Carrot tops, chewy when left whole, add great taste and depth of flavor when puréed with parsley and toasted almonds in a lemony pesto. If you can’t find carrots with tender tops, this recipe is easily adapted using all parsley or a mixture of parsley, basil, dill, or cilantro.
1 bunch (4 to 6) carrots with tops 4  medium leeks, with outer leaf, dark green tops, and roots trimmed extra virgin olive oil coarse salt to taste freshly ground black pepper to taste Pesto 1  cup lightly packed reserved carrot-top leaves, stripped from stems 1  cup lightly packed Italian flat-leaf parsley, leaves and tender stems only ½ cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest ¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano ¼ cup lightly toasted almonds, coarsely chopped salt to taste 1. Cut tops from carrots and reserve for pesto. Scrub or peel carrots as necessary. Make shallow lengthwise slit in white part of leeks and rinse thoroughly with cold water to remove any grit. Pat dry. 2. Place carrots in a large steaming basket and arrange leeks on top. Set basket over 1 inch boiling water, cover, and steam 5 to 8 minutes, until vegetables are tender. Transfer to a platter, lightly brush with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 3. For the pesto: Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor. Blend until mixture is creamy and pale green. If too thick, add up to 2 tablespoons cold water 1 tablespoon at a time. Salt to taste and set aside. 4. Meanwhile, preheat grill. Arrange carrots and leeks on grill grates and cook about 5 minutes per side, until golden brown. 5. Transfer vegetables to platter and slather with pesto, or serve with pesto on the side for dipping.

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms with Toasted Sesame and Scallion Sauce
MAKEs 4 sERvINgs

Prepare the sauce first—because of their high moisture content, the mushrooms cook very quickly.
Sauce 5 tablespoons flavorless vegetable oil 3  tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar 1  tablespoon tamari or soy sauce 2  teaspoons toasted sesame oil 1 teaspoon grated ginger 1 teaspoon grated garlic ¼  cup thinly sliced scallions, including green parts 1  teaspoon brown or toasted sesame seeds 4  large (about 3 inches wide) portobello mushrooms, stems removed extra virgin olive oil 1. In a small bowl, whisk together vegetable oil, vinegar, tamari, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, and half of scallions. Set aside. 2. Meanwhile, preheat grill. Place mushrooms round side up in center of grill. Cover and cook 2 minutes per side, until golden and tender. Transfer to a platter. 3. Spoon sauce over mushrooms and sprinkle with remaining scallions and sesame seeds. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

How to Grill Vegetables
• Grilling is more about instinct than a specific time. Use a timer as a guide, but check in throughout the cooking process, flipping over food and moving it around on the grates so they don’t char. A vegetable is cooked when a fork or the tip of a knife goes into the flesh easily, not when the timer goes off. How-to continued on page 51

CARROTs AND LEEKs WITH CARROT TOP, PARsLEY AND TOAsTED-ALMOND PEsTO

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Cauliflower Steaks with Smoked Mozzarella and Chopped Tomato and Oregano Salad
MAKEs 4 sERvINgs

Continued from page 49

Soaking cauliflower in water will hydrate it with necessary moisture that, when heated, will steam the cauliflower from the inside until tender.
1 large head cauliflower, leaves trimmed and center core removed 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried) 1 clove garlic, grated ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup firm ripe plum tomato, chopped 3 ounces smoked mozzarella, cut into thin slivers

Zucchini and Summer Squash with Dried Tomato and Caper Vinaigrette
MAKEs 4 sERvINgs

For this recipe, select larger squash so you can create nice slabs of the delicate vegetable.
Vinaigrette ½  cup sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, rinsed, patted dry, and chopped into ¹⁄8 -inch pieces 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1  tablespoon small capers, rinsed and patted dry 1  tablespoon fresh thyme (or ½ teaspoon dried) 1 clove garlic, grated ¼  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1  large (about 10 ounces) zucchini, ends trimmed 1  large (about 10 ounces) yellow squash, ends trimmed extra virgin olive oil coarse salt freshly ground black pepper 1. In a medium bowl, combine vinaigrette ingredients. Stir to blend and set aside. 2. Cut zucchini and squash into lengthwise ovals about ¹⁄3 -inch thick. Lightly brush with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 3. Preheat grill. Place zucchini and squash in center of grill. Cover and cook 6 to 8 minutes per side, until golden and tender. Transfer to a platter. 4. Spoon vinaigrette over vegetables and serve warm or at room temperature. 

• Timing varies with the size and type of vegetable. Stagger cooking times so that the vegetables and your protein of choice will be ready at the same time. But don’t despair if the vegetables are done first; all of these grilled veggies are delicious hot off the grill, at room temperature, or even chilled. • There’s no need to oil the grates when the vegetables have been brushed with oil. • Always grill vegetables with the lid closed so the temperature approximates that of a very hot oven. • Cooking vegetables over indirect heat will help prevent charring before they are fully cooked and tender. To cook over indirect heat, preheat the entire grill to the highest heat: For charcoal: Fire the coals until red-hot. When ready to grill, push the charcoal to the edges of the grill to create a hot but tame heat source in the center, where you will cook the vegetables.  or gas: Turn all the jets F on high. When the grill is hot, turn the center flame to low (or off) to create a high-heat environment without hot spots.

1. Place whole cauliflower rounded side up and cut down through the crown of florets to make 4 to 5½-inch-thick “steaks.” (You will also have a small pile of florets.) Place on a platter or in a baking dish. Use all of the cauliflower if pieces are large enough to grill, otherwise save small florets for another use. 2. In a large bowl, combine oil, lemon juice, oregano, garlic, salt, and pepper, and whisk to blend. Pour over cauliflower and gently toss to coat. 3. Meanwhile, preheat grill. With a wide spatula, lift cauliflower from marinade and place in center of grill. Stir tomatoes into reserved marinade and set aside. 4. Cook cauliflower, covered, 10 minutes. Flip and cook 5 minutes. Overlap mozzarella on cauliflower and cook 1 to 2 minutes, until cheese is melted. 5. Transfer cauliflower to a serving platter and spoon over tomato mixture to serve.

Grilled Corn with Spicy Chipotle Honey Butter
MAKEs 4 sERvINgs

Slather this versatile Spicy Chipotle Honey Butter on warm corn bread, spread it on grilled corn, or add a dollop to a bowl of steaming black-bean soup. Leftover butter—if there is any—will keep wrapped and refrigerated at least a week.
Spicy Chipotle Honey Butter 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened ¼  cup full-flavored honey such as mesquite, wildflower, or buckwheat 1  canned chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped, or more to taste 2 teaspoons canned adobo sauce ½ teaspoon coarse salt 4 to 8 ears corn, husked 1. For the butter: In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients and mash together with a fork until well blended. To increase heat, add more chopped chipotle 1 teaspoon at a time to taste. 2. Preheat grill. Lightly spread 2 teaspoons butter on each ear of corn and grill, turning occasionally, until corn kernels have brown spots all over surface. Serve warm with remaining butter.

CAULIfLOWER STEAKs WITH SMOKED MOzzARELLA AND CHOPPED TOMATO AND OREgANO SALAD

Prep Tip:
NUTRITION

or tender results, soak trimmed F vegetables for 20 minutes in a bowl of ice water before grilling. The extra hydration creates steam from within and helps vegetables cook to perfect tenderness.

CARROTS & LEEKS W. CARROT TOP, PARSlEY & TOASTED-AlMOND PESTO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 407 (297 from fat); FAT 34g (sat. 5 g ) ; C HOL 5 m g ; S ODIUM 184mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 7g

GRIllED PORTOBEllO MUSHROOMS W. TOASTED SESAME & ScAllION SAUcE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 184 (175 from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 3 g ) ; C HOL 0 m g ; S ODIUM 227mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g

CAUlIFlOWER STEAKS W. SMOKED MOZZAREllA & TOMATO & OREgANO SAlAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 281 (201 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 6g); CHOL 19mg; SODIUM 448mg; CARB 14g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 9g

GRIllED CORN W. SPIcY CHIPOTlE HONEY BUTTER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 234 (114 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 7g); CHOL 31mg; SODIUM 191mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 4g

ZUccHINI AND SUMMER SQUASH W. DRIED TOMATO & CAPER VINAIgRETTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 148 (109 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 2 g ) ; C HOL 0 m g ; S ODIUM 109mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 3g

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WHO DOESN’T LOVE A GREAT SANDwICH?
What used to be a kid’s lunch staple has taken on a new role in gourmet fare. Innovative chefs and home cooks are taking creative approaches to reshape the classic sandwich into a memorable main dish. From the bread to the spread, you’ll love these gourmet offerings with something for all ages and occasions. Bonus: All these recipes are just as delicious made with gluten-free bread.
EXcERPTEd FROM 400 BEST SANDWICH RECIPES BY AlISON LEWIS © 2011 ROBERT ROSE INc. WWW.ROBERTROSE.cA REPRINTEd WITH PERMISSION. All RIGHTS RESERVEd.

Sensational Sandwiches
EVeRYONe’S FAVORITe GO-TO FARe GOeS GOURMeT.
BY ALISON LEWIS

LOBSTER ROllS WITH CREAMY DIJON SAUcE (REcIPE PAGE 58)

PHOTOGRApHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
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summer 2013 real food 53

Sensational Sandwiches

Indian-Spiced Chicken Wraps
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The flavors of a cardamom-spiced mixture combine with the Cucumber-Mango Raita for a delightfully flavorful dish.
1 teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon coriander ½ teaspoon cardamom ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon cinnamon 4  (about 1½ pounds) boneless skinless chicken cutlets ¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 naan bread wraps, warmed 1 cup Cucumber-Mango Raita 4 lettuce leaves, iceberg, arugula, or other, to line naan

SHOPPING You can also use broccoli sprouts, which are widely available. Also, choose zucchini that is firm with unbruised skin.

Californian
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

INdIAN-SPIcEd CHIcKEN WRAPS

Cucumber-Mango Raita Makes 1½ cups 1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and grated ½ medium mango (½ cup), peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped 1 cup plain nonfat Greek yogurt ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1. I n a small bowl, combine cumin, coriander, cardamom, salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Rub over chicken and drizzle with lime juice. Toss gently. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour. 2. For the raita: In a large bowl, combine cucumber, mango, mint, and cilantro. Stir in yogurt and salt, and mix well. Use immediately or store covered in the refrigerator up to 2 days. 3. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. In batches as necessary, cook chicken 4 minutes per side, until no longer pink inside. 4. Place naan on a work surface. Spread chicken, raita (¼ cup per sandwich), and lettuce among wraps. Fold edges over filling, roll up, and serve immediately.

This is one of my favorite sandwiches. I love the simplicity of goat cheese and mayonnaise as the spread of this colorful vegetarian sandwich. If you'd like to include meat, add grilled chicken.
½ cup reduced-fat mayonnaise ¹⁄3 cup crumbled goat cheese 1¼  cups (about 2 small) thinly sliced yellow squash 1¼  cups (about 1 large) thinly sliced zucchini 3 plum tomatoes, thinly sliced ¼ teaspoon salt ¼  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 8 slices multigrain bread 2 avocados, thinly sliced 1 cup alfalfa sprouts 1. Preheat oven to 450°F. 2. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise and goat cheese. Cover and refrigerate. 3. Place squash, zucchini, and tomatoes on a large baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle with oil. Place in oven, tossing occasionally, 20 to 25 minutes, until tender. 4. Spread mayonnaise mixture over 1 side of bread slices. Top 4 slices with vegetables, avocados, and sprouts. Cover with remaining bread slices (prepared side facing in) and press together gently. Serve immediately.

LEFTOVERS Use leftover raita served with chicken, seafood, or pork or spoon over toasted crostini.

cAlIFORNIAN

ALTERNATIVE You can also grill the chicken for this recipe. Simply preheat a greased grill to medium-high. Cook chicken, covered, 4 minutes per side, until no longer pink inside.

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Sensational Sandwiches

Grilled Chicken Gremolata Sandwich
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Gremolata is a paste made of herbs, garlic, and citrus often found in Italy.
¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest 2 cloves garlic, minced 1½ teaspoons Italian seasoning 1 teaspoon sea salt, divided 8 tablespoons olive oil, divided ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 4  (about 1½ pounds) boneless skinless chicken cutlets ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 8 slices ciabatta or Italian bread, toasted 4 slices mozzarella cheese 1. Preheat a lightly greased grill to medium-high. 2. In a small bowl, combine parsley, lemon zest, garlic, Italian seasoning, and ½ teaspoon salt. Stir in 6 tablespoons oil. Set aside. 3. Drizzle lemon juice over chicken and season with remaining salt and pepper. Cook on grill, in a preheated panini press, or in a large skillet 4 to 6 minutes per side, until no longer pink inside. Set aside. 4. Brush 1 side of bread slices with remaining oil. Place on a work surface, oiled side down. Spread 4 slices with parsley mixture. Top with chicken and cheese, cover with remaining bread slices (oiled sides facing out), and gently press together. 5. Place sandwiches on a preheated grill, in a preheated panini press, or in a skillet over medium heat and cook (turning once if using a skillet) 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown and cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

EXTRAS Serve any leftover relish on crackers, with cheese and crackers, on toasted rolls, or with fish, pork, or chicken.

Grilled Roast Beef and Sweet Red Pepper Relish
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

GRIllEd CHIcKEN GREMOlATA SANdWIcH

Sweet Red Pepper Relish is the star ingredient in this gooey grilled cheese.
Sweet Pepper Relish Makes 2½ cups 1 red bell pepper, diced 1 yellow bell pepper, diced 1 small onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar ½ teaspoon sea salt ½ teaspoon Italian seasoning 8 slices sourdough bread 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, softened ¼ cup reduced-fat mayonnaise 12 ounces thinly sliced roast beef ½ cup shredded mozzarella cheese 1 cup fresh whole basil leaves 1. For the relish: In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Transfer to a greased baking dish. Bake in 400°F oven 45 minutes, until vegetables are softened. Transfer to a bowl and let cool at least 30 minutes. Use immediately or store covered in the refrigerator up to 2 days. 2. Brush 1 side of each bread slice with butter. Place on a work surface, buttered side down. Spread 4 slices with mayonnaise. Top with roast beef, cheese, basil, and ¹⁄3 cup relish each sandwich. Cover with remaining bread slices (buttered side up) and gently press together. 3. Place sandwiches in a preheated panini press or large skillet over medium heat and cook (turning once if using a skillet) 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown and cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

GRIllEd ROAST BEEF ANd SWEET REd PEPPER RElISH

ALTERNATIVE You can also broil the chicken for this recipe. Simply place chicken on a lined baking sheet. Broil, turning once, 4 to 6 minutes per side, until no longer pink inside.

SEASONAL INGREDIENTS
Use these items to give sandwiches a seasonal flair: SUMMER: tomatoes, corn, figs, nectarines, peaches, melons, summer squash, and fresh herbs FALL: mushrooms, pears, winter squash, fresh herbs, apples, and nuts STORAGE To store fresh basil, wrap stems in moist paper towels and refrigerate in a tightly sealed plastic bag up to 2 days. For best flavor, use as soon as possible. WINTER: winter greens, apples, pears, citrus, winter squash, and pineapple SpRING: leafy greens, fresh herbs, summer squash, avocados, and berries

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Sensational Sandwiches

Lobster Rolls with Creamy Dijon Sauce
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This famous sandwich of Maine is so good and makes a great special-occasion meal.
2  1½ to 1¾ pounds live lobsters (or 1¼ pounds precooked lobster meat) ¹⁄3 cup reduced-fat mayonnaise 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard ¹⁄3 cup diced celery 1 tablespoon minced onion 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2  teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 4  small hoagie rolls, split and toasted 1. I n a large pot or Dutch oven, place lobsters in water upside down and head first. Boil lobsters 8 to 10 minutes, until meat feels just firm when you move the tail. Drain and let cool. 2. Remove meat from shell, tail, and claws, and coarsely chop. Set aside. 3. In a large bowl, combine mayonnaise, mustard, celery, onion, lemon zest, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. Add meat, tossing gently. Spoon mixture into hoagie rolls and serve.

Chocolate Turtle Panini
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

These are to die for, as one guest proclaimed when I served them for dessert. Bonus: They are also simple to make!
5 tablespoons (5⁄8 stick) butter, divided 12  caramel squares (about 1 cup) 1  cup semisweet chocolate chips 8  slices challah or French bread ¹⁄3 cup chopped pecans 1. In a small saucepan, heat 3 tablespoons butter and caramel over low heat 5 minutes, until melted. Remove from heat. 2. Heat chocolate chips in microwave on high 1 minute, until melted. 3. Butter 4 bread slices and place buttered side down on a work surface. Spread over melted chocolate, and top with caramel mixture and nuts. Cover with remaining bread slices and spread remaining butter over unbuttered bread. 4. Place sandwiches in a preheated panini press or in a large skillet over medium heat and cook (turning once if using a skillet) 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown. Serve immediately. 

OPTIONS If you can't find challah, any soft ½-inchthick white bread will work. Use any leftover challah for French toast or bread pudding. For best flavor, use as soon as possible. Shown here with a dusting of powdered sugar.

CHOcOlATE PANINI

10 TIpS FOR MAKING GOURMET SANDwICHES
1 Use only the freshest ingredients from start to finish. 2  Leftover grilled shrimp, chicken, steak, or pork are great options for your protein. 3 Slice and grate cheese for best quality. 4  Use fresh herbs, sun-dried tomatoes, sweet peppers, capers, various vinegars, and spices for robust flavors. 5 Employ grainy mustards, chutneys, and Greek yogurt for your sandwich spreads. 6 Slice sandwiches using a serrated knife. 7 Think outside the (bread)box and use artisanal or unique freshly baked breads. 8 Toast bread for sandwiches with sauce or warm fillings. 9 Serve sandwiches with moist fillings immediately. 10 Grill your favorite sandwiches that are typically served cold.

INDiAN-SPiCED CHiCKEN WRAPs: PER SERVING: CALORIES 670 (199 from fat); FAT 2 3 g ( s a t . 5 g ) ; C HO L 116mg; SODIUM 1287mg; C ARB 5 0 g ; FIBER 9 g ; PROTEIN 54g

CALiFORNiAN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 433 (250 from fat); FAT 2 9 g ( s a t . 6 g ) ; C HO L 14mg; SODIUM 710mg; CARB 35g; FIBER 10g; PROTEIN 12g

CHiCKEN GREMOLATA SANDwiCH: PER SERVING: CALORIES 657 (352 from fat); FAT 4 0 g ( s a t . 9 g ) ; C HO L 121mg; SODIUM 1102mg; C ARB 2 4 g ; FIBER 2 g ; PROTEIN 50g

GRiLLED ROAsT BEEF & RED PEPPER RELisH: PER SERVING: CALORIES 555 (208 from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 11g); CHOL 84mg; SODIUM 1787mg; CARB 54g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 31g

LObsTER ROLLs w. CREAMY DiJON SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 366 (81 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 2g); CHOL 212mg; SODIUM 1358mg; CARB 35g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 34g

CHOCOLATE TURTLE PANiNi: PER SERVING: CALORIES 640 (329 from fat); FAT 3 8 g ( s a t . 1 9 g ) ; C HO L 58mg; SODIUM 284mg; C ARB 7 5 g ; FIBER 4 g ; PROTEIN 8g

58 real food summer 2013

NUTRITION

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Vibrant Flavors
Bobby Flay shares the influences, passion, and memories that fuel his barbecue addiction
BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Open Flames,

“Think about it: If you’re next door to someone who’s grilling, you don’t even have to know what’s on the grill. Just the
FLAY PHOTO BY QUENTIN BACON; MESA GRILL PHOTO COURTESY OF MESA gRILL

Bobby Flay has built an empire on the power of that scent, the combined power of smoke fanned by fat, of sugars caramelizing and spices roasting over the heat of an open flame. With six highend restaurants, a string of burger joints 14-strong, six television shows (three on grilling), and 12 cookbooks—including his latest, Barbecue Addiction (Clarkson-Potter, NY; 2012)—he’s made Forbes’s list of the top-earning chefs in the United States.
That it all worked out this way is a surprise even to his mom, he told me, calling from Miami, where he’d just clinched first prize in the South Beach Wine & Food Festival Burger Bash. “She called me up a couple days ago and said, ‘How come you didn’t have me on Worst Cooks of America?’” he says, referring to a new Food Network show featuring, in his words, “really, really bad cooks.” “She’s not really a bad cook,” he says of his mom. “It’s just that her repertory was very, very basic—pork chops with apple sauce, lamb with mint jelly. And of course she wasn’t making the condiments; she was just opening jars.” He doesn’t begrudge her for culinary unimaginativeness, though. “She was feeding us. It just wasn’t gourmet; it was sustenance.” That he ended up a cook was a surprise even to him. “I was a high-school dropout; my father made me work in a restaurant he was a partner in,” Flay remembers. “It took me about six months to wake up; then cooking was the first thing I ever really got interested in.” The hook, in fact, wasn’t the adrenaline thrill of manning a hot grill (the hottest, fastest station in a restaurant kitchen), but the world it opened up to him. “I wanted more flavor,” he says. “When you’re eating what’s at arm’s reach, your world is whatever’s in the kitchen cabinet.” Cooking professionally gave him access to a far broader pantry than he knew existed. “My wife is from Texas,” he says. “She grew up with chile peppers on her table every day. Me, I’d never seen them before.” You could say that his goal in life since then has been to collect influences from around the world, with an emphasis on the bright, sweet, spicy notes common to warm climes. Mango, citrus, chiles, and spices show up liberally in dishes from his flagship Mesa Grill on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan to his burger joints (that winning burger at South Beach? A green chile burger).
summer 2013 real food 61

smell alone is going to make you hungry.”
—Bobby Flay

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A
BObbY FLAY’S GREEN CHILI bURGER RECENTLY TOOK TOP HONORS AT THE 2013 SOUTH bEACH WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL BURGER BASH.

nd if there’s smoke involved, all the better. When I ask Flay what draws him repeatedly to grilling and barbecuing, the answer has nothing to do with the stereotypical he-man-bondingwith-primal-flame. “It’s not even the flavors I remember,” he says. “When I was young we’d go to the Jersey shore, and I remember my parents grilling things—hamburgers, hot dogs, every once in a while lobster, corn. What I remember is not even the taste, but the smell—the wood burning, the food cooking. That’s what’s intoxicating.” Combine those two obsessions—a quest for bright, vibrant flavors and an intoxicating dose of smoke—and you have Flay’s newest book. Consider Barbecue Addiction a crash course in some of the world’s best riffs on open-fire cooking. There’s a porterhouse given the Tuscan treatment with garlic and rosemary and a side of grilled Treviso radicchio, as well as jerked wings in a smoky, tamarind-infused glaze and scallops with a North African dose of harissa and tahini. There are recipes drawn from every corner of the United States, from oysters inspired by those served up in the Little Italy of his hometown, New York City, to Texas-style brisket, Carolina pork and Dungeness crab. “What I love is bringing in global inspiration to food,” he says. “I get inspiration in the food of the people wherever I go; you can learn so much through just what’s on their plates. If you find out what people are eating, you’re going to learn about their culture.” Maybe even your very own culture: The Curry-Rubbed Smoked Chicken Thighs might sound Indian, but in fact Flay devised the recipe in homage to the key part Charleston, South Carolina played in the 19th-century spice trade. A glaze of sorghum, the south’s answer to maple syrup, drives home the connection.

WINNINg BURgER PHOTO COURTESY OF BBP; BOOK COVER AND STEAK PHOTO BY QUENTIN BACON

Barbecue Addiction is also the first of Flay’s books to give real barbecue—cooking low and slow—so much space. His SlowSmoked Pork Shoulder takes as much as six hours; the Texas-style beef brisket nearly ten. Is it worth it? Does someone as busy as him ever really take an entire day to tend to a brisket? Flay laughs. “As I mature, I’m more apt to do something that will take a lot longer,” he says. He’s also been converted into a big fan of The Big Green Egg (a ceramic cooker modeled on early Asian clay cooking vessels) and La Caja China (essentially a wooden box lined with metal]: “It’s kind of magical: you put in a large chunk of meat, and what comes out is so tender.” Neither requires much fussing. Then again, neither does grilling, Flay says. “Just think of it as a burner on a stove with grates on top.” And forget all the fancy grilling accouterments: “You need a spatula—a metal one,” he says, “and a pair of tongs—not too long; you want to be able to control them. Then you need a grill brush to clean the grill, and some silicone brushes to brush sauces on. That’s it.” As for what to cook, he’s big on fish—it’s the longest protein chapter in the book— but admits he really loves red meat. “A rib eye is my favorite cut—ask any chef and they’ll tell you that—but I also love a skirt steak, and it gets no attention.” He gives this affordable cut the full Flay treatment in his Cuban Skirt Steak (reprinted here), a recipe inspired not by travels to Cuba but just to Miami. “It’s an incredible melting pot of Latin cultures and flavors here,” he says, “and it’s got all the flavors I love to reach for—fruity, acidic, spicy, herbaceous—it hits all my favorite notes.” Just imagine the smell when the marinated meat hits the grill. Even if your neighbors don’t know what’s cooking, they are going to get hungry. 

Cuban Skirt Steak with Tomato Escabeche and Mango Steak Sauce
MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is so aromatic; you can smell the garlic in the marinade the instant the steak hits the grill. I think of Cuban food as reinforcement cooking because you see many of the same ingredients (think garlic, oregano, cumin) played out in a multitude of dishes. It’s definitely positive reinforcement—it’s all delicious. Tomato escabeche is a fresh salsa or relish served with all sorts of traditional Cuban dishes. A purée of ripe mangoes thickens and flavors the savory steak sauce.
Skirt Steak 8 garlic cloves, chopped ¼ cup chopped fresh oregano 2 fresh bay leaves (not dried) 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted grated zest of 2 limes juice of 2 limes ¼ cup canola oil 1½  pounds skirt steak, cut into 2 or 3 pieces crosswise  kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Tomato Escabeche 3  ripe beefsteak tomatoes, halved, pulp and seeds removed, and flesh cut into thin strips 1  small red onion, halved and thinly sliced 1 jalapeño, julienned 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon sugar ¼  cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves  kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper chopped fresh cilantro leaves

. Marinate the steak: Combine the garlic, oregano, bay leaves, cumin seeds, lime zest, lime juice, and oil in a blender and blend 1 until smooth. Put the steak in a large baking dish, add the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours. 2. Heat your grill to high for direct grilling. Thirty minutes before cooking, remove the steak from the refrigerator and from the marinade and transfer to a plate. 3. Make the tomato escabeche: Combine the tomatoes, red onion, jalapeño, vinegar, lime juice, sugar, and cilantro in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. 4. Season the steaks with salt and pepper on both sides. Grill on both sides until golden brown, slightly charred, and cooked to medium-rare, about 5 minutes per side. Remove the steaks to a cutting board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. 5. Cut the steak against the grain and serve topped with the tomato escabeche. Garnish with chopped cilantro. Serve the mango steak sauce on the side (recipe follows).

Mango Steak Sauce
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

2 tablespoons canola oil 1 small red onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2  very ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted, and chopped ½ cup mango nectar 2 tablespoons ancho chile powder ¼ cup prepared horseradish 2 tablespoons clover honey 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2  tablespoons pure grade B maple syrup 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce  kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Heat the oil in a medium high-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the mangoes, mango nectar, and ancho powder and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mangoes are very soft and the mixture has thickened, about 15 minutes. 2. Transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender. Add the horseradish, honey, mustard, maple syrup, and Worcestershire; season with salt and pepper and blend until smooth. Scrape the sauce into a bowl and let cool to room temperature.

RECIPE FROM BOBBY FLAY’S BARBECUE ADDICTION BY BOBBY FLAY wITH STEPHANIE BANYAS ANd SALLY JACKSON; COPYRIGHT © 2013; PUBLISHEd BY CLARKSON POTTER, $35.

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pairings

The Kickless Summer Sipper
Let’s set the scene: You are hosting a daytime summer event, whether a garden party or special-occasion brunch or, more likely, a graduation. It’s a mixed crowd. Hot, humid weather. You want something inexpensive, but mass-appeal enjoyable. Moscato is frequently one of the favorite choices. This semi-sparkling, straw-yellow colored wine is the fastest selling category in the wine trade, with sales up 300 percent since 2009. It’s a wine meant for the table, not the cellar. It pairs well with deserts, can stand alone as a conversational apéritif, and is very budget friendly. But be wary here as well. Low-priced Moscato can be cloyingly awful. And there is no other varietal of wine where the price difference between the cheapest and the best is so little. Spend just a few bucks more for a Moscato d’Asti and you will be hugely rewarded. These Piedmont-based wines provide a mild level of sweetness with a nuanced acidity and extremely low alcohol levels, down to 5 percent. You would be hard pressed to find something better for a fine summer party and your guests can enjoy the rest of the day without an alcoholic fog from too much wine.
PHOTO BY tERRy bRENNAN; FooD StyLED by LARA MIKLASEVICS

64 real food summer 2013

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