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Braking and Turning Your Bicycle

Braking--Front, Rear or Both?


Since your bike has two brakes, one for each hand, if you want to stop as safely as possible, you need to pay attention to how you use each of them.

Conventional Wisdom
Conventional wisdom says to use both brakes at the same time. This is probably good advice for beginners, who have not yet learned to use their brakes skillfully, but if you don't graduate past this stage, you will never be able to stop as short safely as a cyclist who has learned to use the front brake by itself.

Maximum Deceleration--Emergency to!s


The fastest that you can stop any bike of normal wheelbase is to apply the front brake so hard that the rear wheel is ust about to lift off the ground. !n this situation, the rear wheel cannot contribute to stopping power, since it has no traction.

Won"t # $o %ver &he Bars?


The rear brake is ".#. for situations where traction is poor, or for when your front tire blows, but for stopping on dry pavement, the front brake alone provides the ma$imum stopping power, both in theory and in practice. !f you take the time to learn to use the front brake correctly, you will be a safer cyclist. %any cyclists shy away from using the front brake, due to fear of flying over the handlebars. This does happen, but mainly to people who have not learned to modulate the front brake. The cyclist who relies on the rear brake for general stopping can get by until an emergency arises, and, in a panic, he or she grabs the unfamiliar front brake as well as the rear, for e$tra stopping power. This can cause the classic &over the bars& crash. 'obst Brandt has a (uite plausible theory that the typical &over)the)bars& crash is caused, not so much by braking too hard, but by braking hard without using the rider's arms to brace against the deceleration* The bike stops, the rider keeps going until the rider's thighs bump into the handlebars, and the bike, which is no longer supporting the weight of the rider, flips. This cannot happen when you are using only the rear brake, because as soon as the rear wheel starts to lift, the rear wheel skids, limiting its braking force. +nfortunately, though, it takes twice as long to stop with the rear brake alone as with the front brake alone, so reliance on the rear brake is unsafe for cyclists who ever go fast. !t is important to use your arms to brace yourself securely during hard braking, to prevent this. !ndeed, good techni(ue involves moving back on your saddle as far as you can

comfortably go, to keep the center of gravity as far back as possible. This applies whether you are using the front, rear or both brakes. +sing both brakes together can cause &fishtailing.& !f the rear wheel skids while braking force is also being applied to the front, the rear of the bike will tend to swing past the front, since the front is applying a greater decelerating force than the rear. "nce the rear tire starts to skid, it can move sideways as easily as forward. !f you don't believe me, perhaps 'ohn ,orester can convince you...see his -ntry in the rec.bicycles ,./ on ,ront Brake +sage 0Sub ect* 1.234. 0+nfortunately, the maintainer of that site has a habit of breaking links, so you may need to go to the rec.bicycles ,./ inde$ to find the article.4 "r read 'ohn .llen's advice. Skidding the rear wheel also wears the rear tire very (uickly. . single rear)brake)only stop from 56 km7h 086 mph4 with a locked rear wheel can wear the tread of a road tire right down to the fabric9

'earning to (se &he Front Brake


%a$imum braking occurs when the front brake is applied so hard that the rear wheel is ust about to lift off. .t that point, the slightest amount of rear brake will cause the rear wheel to skid. !f you ride a conventional bike, the best way to master the use of your front brake is to practice in a parking lot or other safe space, applying both brakes at once, but putting most of the effort into the front brake. #eep pedaling as you brake, so that your legs will tell you immediately when the rear wheel starts to skid. S(uee:e, don't grab, the brake levers, so you can sense when this happens. ;ractice harder and harder stops, so that you will learn the feel of stopping fast, on the edge of rear)wheel liftoff. Test the brakes in this way whenever you are about to ride an unfamiliar bike. Some brakes are more sensitive than others, and you need to know the &feel& of the brakes. "nce you are comfortable with the front brake, also practice releasing the brakes to recover control, until this is an automatic, refle$ action. .t a very low speed, apply the brakes hard enough that the rear wheel skids, or ust begins to lift. <hen it does, immediately release the brakes. <ear your helmet. Some cyclists like to ride a fi$ed)gear bicycle, that is, a bicycle that does not permit coasting. <hen you brake hard with the front brake on a fi$ed gear, the drivetrain gives you e$cellent feedback about the traction at the rear wheel. 0This is one of the reasons that fi$ed gears are favored for winter riding.4 !f you ride a fi$ed gear with only a front brake, your legs will tell you e$actly when you are at the ma$imum brake capacity of the front brake. "nce your fi$ed gear has taught you this, you will be able to stop any bicycle better, using the front brake alone. !f you find the fi$ed)gear concept intriguing, ! have a ma or article on ,i$ed =ears for >oad +se on this site, and also a page of ,i$ed)=ear Testimonials from happy converts.

When to (se &he Rear Brake

Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 15? of the time, but there are instances when the rear brake is preferred* Slippery surfaces. "n good, dry pavement, unless leaning in a turn, it is impossible to skid the front wheel by braking. "n slippery surfaces, however, it is possible. . front wheel skid almost always leads to a fall, so if there is a high risk of skidding, you're better off controlling your speed with the rear brake. Bumpy surfaces. "n rough surfaces, your wheels may actually bounce up into the air. !f there is a chance of this, don't use the front brake. !f you ride into a bump while applying the front brake, the bicycle will have a harder time mounting the bump. !f you apply the front brake while the wheel is airborne, it will stop, and coming down on a stopped front wheel is a @ery Bad Thing. ,ront flat. !f you have tire blowout or a sudden flat on the front wheel, you should use the rear brake alone to bring yourself to a safe stop. Braking a wheel that has a deflated tire can cause the tire to come off the rim, and is likely to cause a crash. Broken cable...or other failure of the front brake.

When to (se Both Brakes &ogether


=enerally ! advise against using both brakes at the same time. There are e$ceptions, however* !f the front brake is not sufficiently powerful to lift the rear wheel, the rear brake can help, but the best thing to do is to repair the front brake. Typical rim brakes lose a great deal of their effectiveness when the rims are wet, so using them both together can reduce stopping distances.

!f the front brake grabs or chatters so you can not modulate it smoothly, you must only use it lightly. .gain, repair is in order. "n long, straight mountain descents, your front brake hand may get tired, or you may be at risk of overheating a tire and blowing it out, so it is best to spread the work between both brakes. ;umping the brakes, alternating between one and the other, will briefly heat the surface of each rim more and dissipate more heat before it spreads inwards to the tires. <hen sharp deceleration is needed, the front brake is more effective, as usual. <hen leaning in a turn, traction is shared between braking and turning. +sing both brakes together reduces the likelihood that one wheel or the other will skid and dump you. The steeper you lean, the less you can brake, so moderate your speed before a curve. <hen you are leaning deeply, you need to release the brakes entirely. Aong or low bicycles, such as tandems and long)wheelbase recumbents, have their front braking limited by the possibility of skidding the front wheel, since their geometry prevents lifting the rear wheel. Such bikes can stop shortest when both brakes are applied. Tandem caution* when riding a tandem solo 0no stoker on board4 the rear brake becomes virtually useless due to lack of traction. The risk of fishtailing is particularly high if a solo tandem rider uses both brakes at once. This also applies to a lesser e$tent if the stoker is a small child.

Which Brake Which ide?


There is considerable disagreement as to which brake should be connected to which lever* Some cyclists say it is best to have the stronger right hand 0presuming a right) handed cyclist4 operate the rear brake. %otorcycles always have the right hand control the front brake, so cyclists who are also motorcyclists often prefer this setup. . moment of confusion in an emergency situation can be deadly. The left lever on a motorcycle operates the clutch, which will not stop you9 There are also observable national trends* !n countries where vehicles drive on the right, it is common to set the brakes up so that the front brake is operated by the left lever. !n countries where vehicles drive on the left, it is common to set the brakes up so that the front brake is operated by the right lever. The -uropean +nion has adopted this as a standard, even though only the +nited #ingdom and !reland are left)side driving countries. The standard is not universally observedB a reader has written in to say that the left lever usually controls the front brake in Cenmark. The theory that seems most probable to me is that the national standards arose from a concern that the cyclist be able to make hand signals, and still be able to reach the primary brake. This logical idea is, unfortunately, accompanied by the incorrect premise that the rear brake is the primary brake. ,or this reason, ! set my own bikes up so that the right hand controls the front brake, which is not the norm in the +.S. ! also do this because !'m right)handed, and wish to have my more skillful hand operate the more critical brake. "n the other hand, if you have already developed a preference, it is usually best to stick with it )) or at least, choose a few weeks of riding under undemanding conditions to retrain your refle$es. !n an emergency, you must act faster than you can think. !f you switch between a %ac and a <indows ;C, where the same keys don't make the same characters, or between a clarinet and a sa$ophone where they don't make the same musical notes, you know how refle$es can trip you up. #) you are used to skidding the rear *heel *ith the rear +rake, s*itching the +rake ca+les can result a )light over the handle+ars, #) you mostly use the )ront +rake, s*itching the ca+les can result in rear-*heel skidding and increased sto!!ing distance, These problems are most likely when first riding an unfamiliar bike, so, again, always test the brakes with a light brake application when you first start out.

See also my letter to Bike Culture maga:ine.

'eaning in &urns

To turn a bicycle, you must lean inward toward the direction of the turn. The faster you are going, and the sharper the turn, the more you must lean. You have no choice about this, for a given speed and turn radius, the center of gravity of the bike7rider must be moved sideways a particular amount or the bicycle will not balance. <hat you do have control over is whether you lean the bicycle more than, less than, or the same amount that you lean your body, to get the overall center of gravity to the place that it has to go.

Aeaning the bicycle sharply while keeping your upper body more upright This approach is popular with beginners who are scared to lean over sideways, and who feel less disoriented by keeping their bodies more upright. )) though actually, they don't. The cyclist is much heavier than the bicycle, which leans over farther, instead. Captaining a tandem with a stoker who doesn't know about leaning in turns can be a very unsettling e$perience, because you must lean farther to compensate. #eeping the upper body more upright is recommended by some racers and coaches as offering the possibility of recovering from a skid, but ! don't believe it.

D! think there might be something to this. !f you start to skid out, you might be able to yank the bicycle up and momentarily press the wheels harder into the road surface to gain more traction )) though the side force also might potato)chip a wheel, or roll a tubular off the rim. >acers also sometimes drop the knee that is to the inside of the turn. Yanking the knee inward may also help ro recover from a skid. .lso see 'obst Brandt's comments, below )) 'ohn .llen.E

Aeaning the upper body sharply while keeping the bicycle more upright This approach is popular with riders who are afraid of striking a pedal on the road. This is a particular concern for riders of fi$ed)gear bicycles, since they cannot coast through corners. This techni(ue is also recommended by some racers and coaches as offering the possibility of recovering from a skid, but ! don't believe it.

DFeither do ! )) but, as Sheldon says, this may be necessary to avoid a pedal strike with a fi$ed)gear bicycle )) 'ohn .llen.E Aeaning the upper body and the bicycle together, keeping them in line as when riding straight. This techni(ue has the advantage of keeping the steering a$is, tire contact patches and center of gravity all in the same plane. This preserves the proper

handling characteristics of the bicycle, and makes a skid less likely. You can verify this yourself by performing an e$periment suggested by 'obst Brandt* &Some riders believe that sticking out their knee or leaning their body away from the bike, improves cornering. Sticking out a knee is the same thing that riders without cleats do when they stick out a foot in dirt track motorcycle fashion. !t is a useless but reassuring gesture that, on uneven roads, actually works against you. .ny body weight that is not centered over the bicycle 0leaning the bike or sticking out a knee4 puts a side load on the bicycle, and side loads cause steering motions if the road is not smooth. =etting weight off the saddle is also made more difficult by such maneuvers. &To verify this, ride down a straight but rough road standing on one pedal with the bike slanted, and note how the bike follows an erratic line. !n contrast, if you ride centered on the bike you can ride no)hands perfectly straight over rough road. <hen you lean off the bike you cannot ride a smooth line over road irregularities, especially in curves. ,or best control, stay centered over your bike.&

- letter to Bike Culture.


&he )ollo*ing is a letter # *rote to Bike Culture maga/ine in 0112, addressing some o) the !oints covered a+ove.
!n Bike Culture GH, %arek +tkin decries &Stupid Standards& in the bicycle industry. Ie begins with a wonderful e$ercise in guilt by association &Throughout history, despots have tried to regulate every aspect of their society...& Ie goes on to link Iitler to the C.!.F. and Stalin to =.".S.T. standards. +naccountably, he forgets to mention the strong linkage between Fapoleon and the %etric system))perhaps he likes metrics, and doesn't want to bring up its despotic antecedents. Ie is specifically e$ercised by new -.+. regulations that specify that the front brake should be controlled by the right hand. &The trouble begins when a bike with right lever to front brake is ridden...in any country where traffic keeps to the right. The left hand signal, across traffic, is much more ha:ardous than the right hand signal. <ith the right hand...front brake the potential danger increases. Stopping the front wheel only, with one hand on the handlebars, can cause front)wheel instability. .lso the upper part of the cyclist's body moves forward as the bicycle abruptly decelerates, causing further pressure on the right side of the handlebars.& ! have to attribute his attitude to a common misunderstanding about brakes. <ith bicycles, as with virtually all wheeled vehicles, the front brake is the more important and effective brake. The front brake by itself will stop a standard bicycle twice as fast as a rear brake by itself. The front brake by itself will stop a standard bicycle as fast as both brakes used together, e$cept on very slippery surfaces. +nfortunately, many casual cyclists and non)cyclists have the mistaken idea that using the front brake is dangerous, and that you are likely to lock up the front wheel, pitch over the handlebars and crack you skull. This type of accident is e$tremely rare, and

unlikely on a bicycle that is in good repair, ridden by a cyclist who has learned to use the front brake sensitively. The danger is more real for bicycles with damaged rims, or mis)ad usted brakes. The danger is even greater for the cyclist who habitually relies on the rear brake alone when suddenly faced with the need for a panic stop. . panicky rider who is unused to the front brake may indeed grab it full)force as a last resort, and may take a header. !f you will forgive an automotive analogy in these green pages, a driver who has never driven a car with power brakes is likely to skid a few times the first time he or she tries driving a car that has them. This does not mean that there is something wrong with power brakes, however, it means that the driver needs to learn how to use them. ! fre(uently ride a fi$ed)gear bike with a front brake only. This is an e$cellent way to learn subtle control of the front brake, as the fi$ed gear gives very good feedback of the traction available at the rear wheel. !n the early 'J6s, ! became infatuated with mountain bike riding in the woods, and completely re)adapted my braking style to cope with the loose surfaces common on woods trails. !n 21JJ, ! moved to ,rance for a year, and got back into road riding. Fear my house was a wonderful bit of road down the side of a valley, called Aa >oute des Sept Tournants. !t is a series of sweeping switch backs, beautifully paved, very well engineered. ! used to descend it regularly on one of my favorite loops. The problem was, ! could never really go fast down it, ! always felt that ! was on the verge of losing traction with my rear wheel and spinning out. .fter a few months of this, ! was beginning to conclude that ! had ust become a coward as ! reached middle age. ! remembered ! used to go faster around similar bends on my old fi$ed gear with no rear brake))))wait a minute, maybe that's it9 The ne$t time ! went that way, ! decided not to use my rear brake unless ! felt ! really needed it))! would ust go slowly at first, only as fast as ! felt comfortable with using the front brake alone. %irable dictu, ! found that ! was my old self again9 !t had indeed been the rear wheel that was on the verge of slipping, and only because ! was using its brake. <ithout the drag of the rear brake, the rear wheel was in no danger of slipping. The front wheel, thanks to the weight shift caused by the braking ! still had to use, had plenty of traction as well. %any people will tell you that it is dangerous to use your front brake in a turnB ! would respond that this is so if your turning7banking techni(ue is incorrect. The center of gravity of a bicycle7rider must lean into a turnB this is re(uired by the laws of physics. There are three ways you can do this. "ne way is to keep the bike more)or)less upright, but to lean your upper body into the turn. .nother is to keep your body more)or)less upright, and lean the bicycle under you. The third, and usually correct techni(ue is to keep your body in line with the bicycle frame, lean the bicycle and rider together as a unit. Aeaning the bicycle and rider differently messes up the handling of the bike, by moving the center of gravity sideways from the plane of the wheels. !f you apply the front brake

while doing this, the braking force e$erts a steering force through the now off)center headset. 'obst Brandt has an e$cellent way of proving this to yourself* try riding down a straight, but bumpy stretch of road while leaning the bike to one side and your body to the other. !f you are brave, try applying the front brake very gently. ! must admit to a bit of ambivalence as to whether a government body should tell people how to set up their bicycles. !n the +.S..., de)facto government regulation has made left)front all but compulsory for new bikes to be sold. ! strongly ob ect to this. ! once had a near)accident as a result* ! was riding an unfamiliar bike that was set up left)front, even though ! am used to right)front. ! came to an intersection, a car cut me off, ! instinctively grabbed with my right hand. Since this was the rear brake, ! was only barely able to stop in time9 ! will add one further reason for preferring the right)front setup* %ost people are right handed. ! think we can all agree that the front brake re(uires more skill than the rearB therefore, it should be assigned to the more skillful hand.