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2.2 Equipping yourself for the unorganized Militia
".... Millions of people armed in the holy cause of liberty, and in such a country as that which we possess, are invincible by any force which our enemy can send against us.... The battle, sir, is not to the strong alone: it is to the vigilant, the active, and the brave." &emdash; Patrick Henry, March 23, 1775
2.2.1 Choose your weapon! As a minuteman in the Militia, you are responsible for arming and equipping yourself. Your first priority, of course, is to effectively arm yourself. All firearms have their place. Some are good for hunting, some for plinking and target shooting, some for self-defense. But only a few are really effective combat weapons. When selecting a firearm, remember that you are a member of a team, not a loner. It is therefore to your advantage to select a weapon that is more or less standard in your unit. This will facilitate exchanging ammunition, magazines, and even spare parts when supplies are limited. You are also preparing for combat, not hunting or personal defense. Thus, hunting rifles, and shotguns are generally (but not always; see below) undesirable weapons. Ideally your weapon should be a medium to high-power semi-automatic (automatic only if licensed) rifle with a detachable magazine. Also as a back-up sidearm a semi-automatic pistol. The following are suggested firearms with their pros and cons.
Rifles The Russian AKM and AK-47 are very common, reasonable priced, reliable, semiautomatic, and use detachable magazines. But it is unclear how easily the 7.62x39mm Russian ammunition could be obtained in a crisis. However surplus ammunition is very reasonably priced along with spare parts since this (AK-47) is the most widely used rifle in the world. The basic tool of guerillas, the AK-47, was dirt cheap in the 1990s. Communist nations held tens of millions of these in their armories. When the communist governments fell, the new authorities saw all these AK-47s as the solution to several problems. First, they could be sold for badly needed cash (former communist governments were all broke) and this would also get the weapons out of the way lest any of the locals get really ticked off at
the former communist politicians who were now trying to be democrats. Recent imports of Egyptian and Rumanian rifles of this type are generally priced starting at $250. The Russian SKS is very reasonably priced and has a 10 round fixed magazine. It also uses the 7.62x39 round. There many accessories available including larger and detachable magazines. Recent imports of Yugoslavian and Albanian rifles have dropped the market on these rifles to as low as $100. This is the perfect rifle to cache (buy a couple at a gun show and put away for a rainy day). Better still, this rifle is abundant and can be found in every neighborhood. This rifle is what the BATF calls a “Curio and Relic” eligible firearm—more information on this ahead The Ruger Mini-14 is semi-automatic and has a detachable magazine. Although Sturm, Ruger only sells 5-round magazines to the public; larger capacity magazines (10, 20, 30, and 40-round) are available. It uses the .223 caliber cartridge which packs a high muzzle velocity of over 3000 feet per second and is therefore capable of penetrating most Kevlar body armor, and will also be most readily available in a crisis since it is the same that is used in M-16s/AR-15s which are standard weapons of the U.S. military and police. At about $400 to $600, the Mini-14 costs about half or a third as much as an AR-15. However, they don't seem to be very accurate. The Colt AR-15 is the semi-automatic civilian version of the military M-16. Parts and ammo would be easily obtained in combat since a potential enemy will likely be armed with this weapon. While the army's use of the M-16 shows the usefulness of this weapon, it is expensive at $1000-$1500 each... The Galil 223, AR-15 clones and Berretta AR-70 are suitable substitutes that generally run about $500. The Springfield M-14 and M-1A are very dependable semi- automatic weapons and their .308 caliber packs a punch that is well-suited for long-range sniping. Their drawbacks are high price (around $1000) and the fact that their ammunition would not be quite as common as the .223 cartridges, but still pretty common. The free world’s right arm—better known as the FN FAL /SLR/L1A1 is an extremely rugged and reliable.308 battle rifle. These rifles have been used by 80 or so countries including Britain, Australia, Israel, and Austria. Several ‘hybrid” rifles of this type are currently available, usually made from foreign surplus parts kits assembled on a new American made receiver. These are extremely accurate and the .308 (7.62x51 NATO) is widely used. The only drawback to these guns is among the biggest and most heavy assault rifles out there (feels like you are carrying a log!). The hybrid rifles currently around are starting at $300 and worth it. You can also usually buy a spare parts set with every single part except the receiver for as low as $99, which does come in handy. The Springfield M-1 Carbine is common, inexpensive, semi-automatic, uses detachable 15 or 30-round magazines. The .30 caliber pistol type cartridge is not very adequate. It can, however, be unreliable. Magazines tend to jam in the cold and sometimes a full 30round magazine puts too much pressure on the bolt to seat and lock for semi-automatic
firing. Be sure to avoid Universal- manufactured copies since these do not have fully interchangeable with G.I.carbines. Priced at $200 & up. The Heckler and Koch rifles in the 9mm, .223, and .308 calibers are top of the line, dependable, effective, and very expensive firearms. A suitable Heckler and Koch designed rifle for your needs may very well be the Spanish Army surplus CETME battle rifle. Designed as a clone of the German G3 battle rifle (HK91) it has all of the advantages of the FN FAL mentioned above but is a little handier. Like the FN FAL listed above you can also pick these up now for around $300 and the spare parts kits are out there as well. Regular hunting rifles are very prevalent and will do in a pinch. These rifles are slower to fire and to load due to being bolt, lever, or single action, but are better than nothing. If you do decide to go with a regular hunting rifle try to stay with a very common caliber such as 30.30, 30.06, 308, or .270. While that .300 Weatherby magnum is a sharp gun or your grandpa’s .257 Roberts was free, good luck finding ammunition for them in an emergency situation. Nothing is more worthless than a rifle without bullets to fire from it. If your pocket book is very tight, a surplus military bolt-action rifle such may hold you over until you can acquire something else. Surplus WWII era Mausers, Mosins, and Enfields can be bought for as low as $30.00 from ads in the Shotgun News or at gunshows and pawn shops. Beware that while most of these guns were well used by conscripted soldiers along the battlefields of the world, and they are not pretty---They are much more rugged and can take more abuse than your average $500 hunting rifle. If you go this route and buy one or more of these guns, buy a LOT of ammo for it as they tend to have odd-ball calibers such as 8x57J, .303, 7.62x54R, etc and will be impossible to resupply under emergency conditions. These guns are also “curio and relic” eligible. You (or your group acting together) can always pick up 10 at a time for only around $400 all together with shipping and cache them (with ammo) for a rainy day. After all, any gun is better than none.
Pistols: The Ruger P series pistols are the best value. The have all the features of more expensive pistols without the price tag. Available in various calibers I would stay with 9mm or .45ACP since these are the standard military cartridges and widely available. The best things about the magazines (clips) for these 9mm’s are that they are interchangeable between models. The Colt 1911 pistols and variants are also excellent pistols. You want to stay as close to standard GI configuration as possible. Avoid compacts and "race" guns with all kinds of bells and whistles. Standard GI parts are widely available along with magazines. The Llama (made in Spain) and the Ballester Molina ( made in Argentina) are very close
copies and can be picked up for about $200, however while these guns Do take colt clips, the other parts are hard to find and for want of a spare spring you could have an unfixable weapon. Try to stick with the Springfield models of the 1911 as they will go for around $350 used and are a very good bargain. The Browning Hi-power 9mm is a very common weapon and like the FN FAL above has been used by most of the non-communist world. They have a 13-round clip standard and spare parts abound. Used surplus Browning’s can be had in the $300 range and are well worth it. Berettas, Heckler and Kochs, Glocks, and Sig Sauers are nice and are worth the money if you can afford them but be aware that they start at $500 and only move up from there. These higher-end autos are also sometimes harder to find after market clips for and you may wind up paying as much as $100 apiece for spare clips. Most people buy these weapons mainly as s status symbol. The classic .38 special/357 magnum Smith and Wessons, Rugers, Taurus’s, and Colts are slower to load/reload, and are heavier than larger capacity autos. However, these are very reliable weapons and a mis-fire will not leave you with a jammed weapon. Again, if you don’t have access to anything else these will fit the bill. Often these weapons can be found on tables at gun shows for $150-$200 cash and carry, but be sure to check for cracks, breaks and worn out barrels as there are thousands of police trade-ins out there that have really been put through the ringer. A word about “junk” pistols: While you can pick up a super cheap non-name brand pistol such as a Lorcin, Jennings, Bryco, makarov, or High Point for as little as $50 new , you really do get what you paid for as these weapons tend to be “jam-a-matics” used by drug dealers as throwaway Saturday night specials. The only good thing you can say about these guns as at least they are pretty heavy so if nothing else you have a pretty stout club to whack someone with when it jams. If this is the only pistol you can get----do without unless you are aquiring as a “shoot and drop” gun that does not have to be reliable after the first shot.
Specialized combat weapons (generally not recommended)
Submachine guns like the TEC-9, MAC-10, Colt 9mm, and UZI are not especially wellsuited for the typical minuteman. While the semi-auto versions do provide rapid fire, they are not particularly accurate on a battlefield and their calibers are generally lack the punch of assault rifles since they use pistol ammunition (9mm or .45 ACP). They are, however, excellent commando and policing weapons, especially in close quarters.
The Barrett Model 82A1 is a semi-automatic assault rifle with a 10-round magazine that uses .50 caliber machine gun ammunition. You would not want to carry this on a patrol, nor can many people afford its $2500+ price tag. But as a static defense weapon it packs a punch that is unmatched. High-power hunting rifles with suitable scopes make excellent sniper weapons. (The .308 caliber M-21 is especially useful but expensive as a standard NATO sniping weapon.) Unfortunately, most hunting rifles are bolt-action and are therefore undesirable as standard weapons for a minuteman. Shotguns are generally ill-suited for the battlefield since they do not have the precision, range, or velocity needed for typical combat. One exception is the "street sweeper." These are semi-automatic and have a 9- to 12-round magazine capacity. Such shotguns are useful for self-defense in close quarters or for certain types of raids as was proven in Vietnam. Remember, the potential enemy will be well-trained, heavily armed, and probably protected by Kevlar body armor. Single shot, bolt and lever action, and light caliber rifles are virtually useless against such a foe as is virtually any kind of handgun. Of course, being armed with a less-than-ideal firearm is many times better than being totally unarmed.
2.2.2 Outfitting yourself for combat
While your gun is important, it is useless without magazines and ammunition and virtually useless without other equipment. Consequently the minimum necessary equipment for a Militia rifleman is as follows: 1) Rifle (AK-47, SKS, AR-15, Mini-14, M-1 carbine, or M-14, CETME, or bolt action surplus weapon). Cost: $30-$1000 1) Revolver or pistol (Ruger p-series, colt 1911 etc.) Cost: $150-$700 7) 20 or 30-round rifle magazines for semi-auto rifles, (this is minimum, 10 or 12 magazines would be better). Smaller capacity magazines need to be reloaded too often. Larger capacity magazines are more prone to jamming. You must be able to carry at least 200 rounds of ammunition ready to fire. Cost: $100………if you have a rifle that does not take magazines, consider purchasing stripper clips to speed up your re-loading, these usually sell for about $1.00 apiece 3) Pistol Magazines (15rd for 9mm) Cost: $50……If you have a revolver consider purchasing speed loaders, these usually sell for about $10 apiece and are worth it.
1000) rounds of full metal jacket ammunition compatible with your rifle and pistol each. The more ammunition the better. It will probably be the hardest thing to supply or replace in a pinch. Full metal jacket, or regular “ball” ammunition is often more reliable than the “sexier” hollow-points and other more exotic rounds (not to mention cheaper). Always check around your group before you purchase ammunition to see if you can pool your money and buy by the case which is always much cheaper. Cost: $100-$250ea
2) magazine pouches to carry your magazines conveniently. Be sure your pouches are compatible with your magazines and are green or camouflaged so they are inconspicuous. Should have enough to carry all your magazines not leaving any loose to be put in a pocket or knapsack. Cost: $5-$10 ea
1 Rucksack: complete w/ Frame & Straps, G.I. issue Alice pack Med. or Large (if cannot find a good deal on one of these, then you can always buy a commeriacl rucksack/backpack for around $20.00) 1 Pistol belt, complete w/ LBE suspenders, GI issue 1 Double magazine pouch for pistol magazines 2 Canteens: complete w/ cup and cover to attach to pistol belt 1 First Aid kit 1 Compass, Lensatic, GI issue w/ pouch (and learn HOW TO USE IT) 1 Knife, combat w/ sheath 1 Helmet, Kevlar w/ camo cover, band, and chin strap (if you can find them) 1 Buttback (to carry it all in) 1 Flashlight w/ batteries and red lens 1 case MRE's (check date for freshness) (can substitute energy bars or other emergency or camping type rations) 1 Sleeping bag
1 Blanket Wool or Cotton 1 Cleaning kit for above weapons 1 Protective Mask: N.B.C.: Nuclear, Biological, Chemical, w/ carrier(beware of buying surplus Warsaw-pact equipment as it is often sold as a curio and relic only and while looking very cool, actually provides little or no protection)
2 sets Pants/Shirt, BDU, camo: Fatigue, Woodland, Tigerstripe;etc. 1 Coat, Field, M-65 (of Pattern chosen above) 1 pr Boots, Combat or Jungle 1 poncho, OD or camo or 1 set, raingear, jacket and pants, prefferably Goretex 3 pr socks, OD, cushion sole or equiv. 3 pr T-shirts, OD, Brown, Black, or camo 3 pr underwear 1 pr gloves, (nomex is good for tactical use) 1 Sweater, wool ( or acrylic if allergic to wool), OD or Brown……..if needed 1 Belt, pants 1 set Long Underwear, Polypropolene……..if needed 1 Balacalva type Nomex hood I know this may seem like a lot of money. But it is a small price to pay for your liberties and for your life! The previous list is the bare minimum for outfitting yourself. With this equipment you can basically shoot, hide, move, and take care of your gun. Many desirable items are neglected. No provision is made for survival in the wilderness. Consequently, if you can afford it, the following items are desirable to have. They are listed in their rough order of importance considering the probable enemy and circumstances.
1 Set of spare parts for your rifle. A few dollars invested in the parts that are most likely to fail will extend the life of your gun almost forever! Parts for M-1s, M-14s, M-16s, and AR-15s are readily available at gun shows. For the typical rifle a spare firing pin, extractor, extractor plunger, extractor spring, ejector, ejector spring, recoil spring, and hammer spring are sufficient. $25 1 G.I. Kevlar flak jacket. The current issue military Kevlar body armor will stop most knife and bayonet thrusts, all shotgun blasts, and most pistol and some submachine gun bullets (velocities under 1300 feet per second). They will also protect you from mortar and hand grenade fragments. In Vietnam, U.S. soldiers would have sustained 40% fewer casualties if they all wore their body armor and helmets (and this was before the advent of the Kevlar helmet). Of course, blunt trauma from bullets will leave welts, bruises, and perhaps cracked bones, but this is better than a loss of blood or life! This body armor can even be upgraded to Type III, stopping even .308 rounds with improvised titanium or steel inserts. Small: $75 Medium: $100 Large: $150…….if cannot be found then consider buying “soft” body armor of the type used by police. The manufacturers say that the soft body armor vests lose 25% of their strength after five years so police agencies regularly switch their’s out with new equipment. You can often find these older vests on auction sites like Ebay and the like for $20-$50 used. While they are not as effective as a new vest, you can always buy a couple of old ones, take the panels out and make yourself a double-layer vest that is VERY effective (note this is what the Bank of America bank robbers used in Los Angeles and they took 50-100 hits apiece from 9mm pistols with no problems and were only finally stopped by headshots)
So there you have it: For $1000 to $1500 you can outfit yourself for combat fairly well. However, there are some things that your cell will need as a unit even if every cell member does not possess them. To outfit men accordingly, each cell will need the following equipment. The equipment can either be bought by the man assigned to use it or the cell can pool funds to buy it: 1 hand-held CB radio for communication with other nearby cells. 1 pair of binoculars (7x to 10x) for observation and spotting. 1 rifle scope. Note: Scopes are undesirable and too costly for the average minuteman. They are cumbersome in brush and slow the acquisition of targets in quick combat. Contrary to popular belief, they do not make a rifle more accurate! But they are useful for clearly seeing distant targets while sniping. 1 practice rifle. Ruger 10-22. Ammunition is expensive, so the cell should have either a .22 rifle or an air rifle with iron sights (no scope) to use for inexpensive target practice.
1 general first aid kit along with other selected medical supplies. 1 set of gunsmith tools. This would include a set of pin punches, hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, files, rasps, hacksaw, etc. 2-4 tri-folding shovels for trenching and field fortifications. Don't go out and buy these yourself. Coordinate purchases with your cell so you avoid unnecessary redundancy and expense. Of course, there are also some kinds of equipment needed at the platoon, company, and battalion levels. Some examples include: Electric generators to run equipment during power outages/failures. Ham/short-wave radios to communicate over longer distances than CBs. CB radios to communicate over short distances with neighboring cells. (Another thought about communication, often most cell phone companies sell pre-paid phones that come with a set number of minutes, in most cases, you can buy these phones without providing a name or contact information and therefore have an un-traceable phone number-----this is what most drug dealers buy to keep in contact. If push comes to shove for your group and the general phone network is still working, a cluster of pre-paid cell phones can help keep everyone together without compromising security) Trillions of dollars has been spent on defense since World War II, and much is made about how a lot of this technology has moved over to the civilian side. Well, that's true. Television, cell phones and a lot of other useful gadgets got their start, or were perfected, while in military service. But now many of the civilian items are returning to less peaceful pursuits. Consider portable communications equipment; cell phones, beepers, the internet, CB-Radio and walkie-talkies. They are cheap, easy to use and widely available. Guerillas, terrorists and gangsters have been quick to adopt all of these items to make their work easier. For many decades, the military professionals had the best communications gear. The reason was that this stuff was especially built for the troops and was expensive. No more. Even soldiers are using some of the new civilian stuff. In an urban area, a cell phone can be more useful than a military radio. With military grade encryption now available to anyone, the bad guys can safely pass messages anywhere there is an internet connection. And with satellite phones, that means anywhere on the planet, anytime. But the satellite phones are expensive, and most guerilla movements are low budget operations. More popular are FM walkie-talkies. These are very cheap, have a range of up to three miles and take a few minutes master. They are small enough to fit into a pocket. Guerillas in tropical countries have found that they can rig solar powered FM signal boosters, put them up in trees on
hills, and now those little walkie-talkies can send a message hundreds of miles (via a chain of boosters.) If they don't know already, they soon find out, that the government troops can not only overhear walkie-talkie conversations, and also use direction finding equipment to locate walkie-talkies, or use special equipment to jam walkie-talkies, or any other off-the-shelf form of communication. Even a satellite phone can be traced to a fifty kilometer diameter circle. Not to worry, for it is a simple matter to use a code book, which includes procedures like changing frequencies at predetermined intervals. Out in the bush, keep your messages short and keep moving. The appearance of the GPS (Global Positioning System) in the early 1990s was another boon to guerillas. Most of these lads are city boys, who often get lost. This is frequently fatal, especially if government patrols find you before your compadres do. Before all this low cost commo gear came along, guerillas had a hard time staying in touch. Much of their communicating was by foot messenger. The government troops knew this and took advantage of the guerillas poor commo to stage raids and large, and well coordinated, operations against guerilla base camps. All this has changed over the last twenty years as cheap, easy to use electronics have become widely available. The guerillas are a lot more nimble, especially in urban areas. Before the guerillas got their cell phones and walkie-talkies, the police and army had the edge, being able to mobilize a large force quickly against any guerilla operation. But now the guerillas have instant communication, as well as their traditional element of surprise. The guerillas can now react quickly to whatever the police do in response to a guerilla operation. Batteries to power flashlights, radios, other electric equipment. (At the turn of the century, many of these fighters need batteries more than ammunition, and are on the cutting edge of technology. Portable lights/flares to give light for combat during darkness. Laptop computers/printers to prepare plans and training materials. Photocopiers/printing presses for training materials and persuasion. Shovels/picks/spades for digging and preparing field fortifications. Chain saws for clearing fields of fire in heavily wooded areas. Gasoline for powering chain saws, vehicles, and electric generators. Vehicles (trucks and vans) for transportation in and around our town. Fire extinguishers for fighting fires that break out during combat.
Office supplies for supplying computers, photocopiers, and so on. Again, don't go out and buy any of these things on your own. But if you already have any of them, let your cell leader know so they can be put to good use if and when they are ever needed during an actual mobilization. What you must do is be sure that you are adequately equipped for combat and contribute (time, money, or things) to the equipment needs of your cell. It is admittedly expensive to adequately equip an individual or team for effective combat. But your Constitutional liberties and life are worth it!
2.2.3 Be careful how you buy
It is just as important how you go about buying the things you need to equip yourself as it is what you equip yourself with for future combat. The last thing you want to do is to draw attention to yourself when you buy or leave a "trail" after buying. Gun registration records will no doubt be used to track down and confiscate weapons. Even though those yellow forms you fill out for a gun dealer stay with him, they are subject to BATF inspection and also will compromise your guns. The mailing lists and invoices of suppliers for paramilitary books and gear might also be used to hunt down gun owners. And don't forget about your checking account: it is an open book to the government revealing what, when, and where you buy. Consequently, there are several guiding rules you should follow when you begin to outfit yourself for the Militia. Never sign anything. Never give your name and address. Don't order through the mail since invoices will record your name, address, and what you ordered. Always pay with cash. Don't use your checking account or credit cards since these types of transactions leave a record. Be inconspicuous. Don't go to gun shows or dealers decked out in your camouflaged battle dress uniform and body armor. You might wonder how you can possibly be outfitted given these four constraints. Actually, it is not that difficult. It just takes some time and patience. You may not have the money to buy everything all at once anyway! Here are some tips on outfitting yourself in a confidential way. Slowly build up a supply of cash. Large withdrawals of cash from the bank can trigger (and $10,000 transactions automatically trigger) a report to the federal government.
Buy what you can at area gun shows. Your cell leader should have a list of places and dates. Other cell members will be glad to go with you. Virtually everything you need will eventually be found at gun shows, even guns without paperwork! Sometimes private individuals or dealers selling their own personal guns will sell without papers. Look for private individuals carrying around weapons at gun shows and ask if they are selling. It is alright to buy ammunition and supplies from gun dealers, just be sure you pay in cash and don't give your name. There are also other good sources of the types of things you will need like sporting goods stores and military surplus stores. Pay cash! Watch the classified ads in the paper, especially for firearms for sale. Private sales are exempt from paperwork and are confidential. Check with members of your cell. Perhaps they have extra or redundant guns and ammo that they have stashed just for people like you to buy! As an expedient way to purchase some firearms if unable to go to local gun shows or through the newspaper, you can get a BATF Curio and Relic Federal Firearms license. This license is $30 for three years and enables you buy surplus rifles and pistols such as SKS’s, Mausers, and the like through wholesalers and have them shipped right to your door. These licenses are set up for collectors to be able to buy old antique guns for their personal collection. While you are not permitted to re-sell these guns you get, you can always “loan” them to a friend or other cell member for a “loan” of some money to cover the price of the gun. It’s best to get a “gray” member of your cell to get the license. ( a sleeper type who normally would not be under surveillance and would normally keep his distance from the rest of the group so that neither would be a known liability).
2.2.4 Sources of equipment and supplies
In addition to area gun shows and classified ads in the newspaper, there are several sources of firearms, ammunition, and gear in the area. Look up "gunsmiths and gun dealers," "sporting goods," "military surplus," etc. in the yellow pages of the phone book. Write down the addresses and phone numbers for each listing in the space provided on the next page. As time permits, check them out to get an idea of what they have available. Shop around since prices can vary quite a bit from store to store. Even if you can't afford something now, this shopping will pay off in the future when you can afford to buy. A member of your cell can even obtain a “Curio and Relic” federal firearms license as noted above.
In any event, buy the priorities first. Don't spend a lot of money on body armor and hightech "toys" before you own a rifle and ammunition!
2.2.5 Discussion questions
What, if any, experience have you had in gun safety, cleaning, or shooting (i.e., hunting, target shooting, etc.)? What type(s) of firearm(s) have you used in the past? What type(s) of firearms would you say that you are proficient in? How accurate are you? What firearms do you own? Are any of them formally registered with a government agency? Informally registered using the yellow forms retained by gun dealers? (You may opt not to write down the answers.) How familiar are you with the firearms discussed in this section? Are you planning to buy any of the firearms recommended in this section? If so, which one(s)? How do you plan to acquire it (them) without leaving a record of you as the buyer? (You may opt not to write the answers.) Among the firearms that you currently own or intend to buy, which one is your "weapon of choice"? Why? (You may opt not to write the answers.) How much of the necessary equipment, if any, do you already own? Do you intend to buy the remaining necessary equipment in the future? If so, how quickly do you plan to do so? (List in the order of priority.) How much of the desired equipment, if any, do you already own? Do you intend to buy any of the remaining desired equipment in the future? Which items (list by priority)? How fast do you plan to get them? Why is it very important that you be careful not to leave any records of sensitive purchases you make like guns, ammunition, and military gear? Please list the four principles of outfitting yourself confidentially. Do you agree to follow these principles in the future?
Note: The following is intended to assist the Militia commanders in planning. If you have any of the following items, your sponsor will make a note of it and pass it through to his superiors without your name. Thus, the commanders will have an idea of what might be available in a crisis without having any central records of who has what. We trust that you will freely make these items available when the need arises. Do you possess any binoculars, field glasses, hand-held CB radios, first aid kits, or gunsmith tools that you would be willing to let your cell use? Which of the following items do you both own and volunteer to loan to any Militia "war effort" in the event that we must mobilize? Electric generators Ham/short-wave radios Laptop computers/printers Photocopiers Printing presses Shovels/picks/spades Chain saws Vehicles (trucks and vans) Fire extinguishers Medical supplies
A note about explosives : If you feel the need to be able to use and assemble explosives for some unforeseen national emergency contingency, DO NOT STOCKPILE THEM AT ONE LOCATION. It can be a very heavy prison term to be caught with a table full of “bomb making materials” on a search warrant. The best way to get around this is to have several different members have the separate ingredients stockpiled separately at several different locations in their original containers. And remember to place these ingredients in you pantry or garage amongst other household chemicals----not in a cardboard box labeled “bomb stuff” (yes, this has happened) . Remember, the old adage about if you are caught with a
knife your are a killer, but if you carry the knife along with a fork and a spoon you are simply prepared
Main ideas of this section:
For a standard, inexpensive, effective, dependable, and versatile rifle, you will be hardpressed to do much better than the AK-47-----but ANY weapon is better than NONE at all. It is admittedly expensive to adequately equip an individual or team for effective combat. But your Constitutional liberties and life are worth it! It is just as important how you go about buying the things you need to equip yourself as it is what you equipment yourself with for future combat.