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Earth First's "Death Manual" http://www.mega.nu/ampp/efdm/efdm.

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The Earth-First "Death Manual"

Off-Road.com presents this material as an example of just how far radical


Eco-Terrorist orginizations are willing to go to stop "off-roaders" from using
our public lands. The "disclaimer" about "enemy motorcyclists invading
America" fools no one. This pamphlet is in circulation among members of
"Earth First", the EDF, and others. It was written under the psudonym "el
Ranchero; a known alias of the Unabomber. It should be noted that The
Unabomber has been irefutably tied in to Earth First by the FBI.

Off-Road.com, it's staff, or associates, bear no responsibility for anyone stupid


enough to commit the Acts of Terrorism described below. If you do, it is of your
own volition, not ours. We present it so that the world can be made aware of
just how violent the radical Eco groups really are, compaired to the "friendly
& non-violent" facade which they attempt to present publicly.

Material provided, with our thanks, by The Sahara Club.

CONTENTS
How to fight Motorcycles
General Notes
1. Spike Board
2. HE "H" to "A" CAPER
3. NECKBREAKER PIT
4. TO BLOW A TIRE
5.. MORE WAYS TO BLOW A TIRE
6. GASOLINE GRIEF
7. FISH. HOOKS
8. T.V. PICTURE TUBE TRICK
9. WHEEL GRABBER
10. TIP BOARDS
11. FLIP WIRE
12. POWER HACK SAW BOARD
13. NECK WIRES
14. TIN TROUBLE
15. MORE SPIKE VARIATIONS

HOW TO FIGHT MOTORCYCLES

This little book assumes that the United States has been invaded by Enemy
Soldiers on motorcycles, and that we have to fight and harass them by guerrilla
tactics. These dirty tricks are not .to be used against Civilan Riders because
most would be illegal under those c1rcumstances. Besides, bikers are all nice
puys who wouldn't think of trespassing on Private Property... Or knocking
down fences or "Keep Out" signs... Gouging deep trails in a yard by 'gowing
out' and accelerating fast... Roaring past a chicken yard just to scare the
chickens... Deliberately running over cats, dogs, chickens, and/or other small
domestic live stock for 'sport'... Answering protests with a "V for Victory" sign,

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(one finger at a time), as they speed away... Leaving beer cans and. other
casual trash around a still smoldering camp fire in a high fire hazard area...

OF COURSE NOT, THEY ARE ALL FINE UPSTANDING CITIZENS !!!

GENERAL NOTES

These suggestions involve material that Is usually "throw away junk' that can
be used in a booby trap and left alone to. do 1ts job at no expense to the Home
Defender except a little physical exertion. So what if it has to stay hidden for a
year or more before it gets a chance to do it's bit for America.. 1t is willing..
These ideas are by no means a complete list, they are just the tip of' the
1ceberg' and hopefully will suggest. other efficient uses of' any material that
comes to hand. The best place to plant these little goodies is in a previous
track, as bikers have a tendency to follow where they have gone before because
they assume it is safe. Where a track passes between two trees or bushes that
are close together makes a good location because it reduces the area choice'...
....just as in the middle of a dry lake would be the worst place because there is
so much other area where the Enemy Soldier might drive...... .. unless of course
there is a fence across it with a gate f'eaturing a "KEEP OUT" slgn THAT
MAKES AN IRRESISTABLE ATTRACTION

1. SPIKE BOARD

A spike board is one of the simplest, and most


effective, tricks to discourage motorcyclists. It
consists of an old board, one or two 1nches
thick, usually one or two feet 1ong, and from
four to twelve inches wide with nails driven
through from one side so the heads are flush.
These nails must be long enough and heavy
enough to hold up under the impact of a tire,
otherwise they will bond instead of puncture.
Nails in sizes known as #l2, #16 or #20 are ideal
for this purpose because they are long enough
that when.. the board is buried so that an inch of
dirt can be spread on ft to hide it they still stick
up far enough to go through a tire tread. If you
are lucky, BOTH front and back tires Heavy
plywood works we11 too, 3/4" thick or heavier.
Filing the points of the nails makes for slightly
more 'efficiency' but is not strictly needed.

2. THE 'H' TO "A' CAPER

Where a track passes between two bushes is a good


location for this. It consists of two fairly straight sections
of tree limb, or two pieces of 2"x 4"'s lunber about foor

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feet long. The limbs are best because they blend in


better, but, especially 1f the bushes are thick, the 2" x
4"s will do the job. These limbs are placed one on each
side of the track about four feet apart. The lower end is
placed 1.oosely in a six inch deep hole to keep it in
place, and the upper end is laid against the bush,
pointing slightly uptrail. Between the two limbs is tied a
piece of rope or heavy wire about a a foot from the top
end. This forms the 'H'. When a moving bike hits this
rope it pulls the ends of the limbs towards each other
and jambs them against either the machine or the rider.
This will do neither of them any good, especially if the
bike is moving at any speed, and if the ends of the limbs
have a tendency to be jagged. This forms the ~A~. This
caper will work almost as well with just one limb, and
the other end of the rope tied to something solid like a
tree, or the base of a bush, or around a rock. It will
shove the bike to one side instead of squeezing it.

3. NECKBREAKER PIT

A trick that probably dates back to Cave man


days' but is still used because it is effective, is
the camouflaged pit dug across a trail. A pit six
feet deep with "punji" sticks in the bottom would
work fine, but that's too much work. A hole
about 18" deep, covered with are easily
collapsible cover will, when run over by an
Enemy Soldier on a motorcycle, flip sald cycle
briskly, hopefully breaking something, preferably
bones. Two feet long by a foot wide is about the
minimum size needed for a motorcycle sized
wheel to drop into. Just be sure to remove and
scatter any excess dirt not needed to disguise the
cover so the Soldier will not be alerted. A cover
can be made of anything that will support a thin
layer of d1rt and / or leaves, even a piece of
cardboard, a sheet of tin, even an old rusty
window screen if the screen is not too rusty. this
can be supported by a few sticks laid across the
hole, or even a small bush Jammed in the pit.
Since the dirt is supposed to hide the trap try to
blend it in with the surrounding area. If this is
placed in a prev1ous track it's a good idea to
brush the newly spread earth with a small
branch, maybe try to draw a suggestion of 'tire
tracks' on it with a twig...scatter a few leaves and
twigs. Try to see how artistic a job of camouflage
you can do.

4. TO BLOW A TIRE

A 12 gauge shotgun shell makes a handy' little


device by which to blow a large hole in an

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enemy Soldiers front tire. Combined with a


couple of pieces of ordinary water pipe, wrapped
in a plastic bag such as used in markets to carry
home vegetables and fruit, it will lie quietly
waiting to do its job for a long time, year's even,
ready willing... and deadly. As the illustration
shows all that is needed to fire this crude shotgun
is to hit down on the middle pipe so that the
primer is impacted against the firing pin. This
causes the shell to explode with the resulting
damage to a motorcycle tire in the 'severe' range.
Even if the thin sheet of plastic over the mouth
of the device is torn away and dirt clogs the
'barrel' 1t is still effective, maybe more so
because then it; wrill act like a 'land mine' in
miniature. Take care 1n handling this device.
Remember that if it 1s dropped and hits in an
'upright' position, that is with the firing pin
section down, it will go off', In planting it in the
ground be very careful not to hit the protruding
pipe with a shovel...same deal, It will fire and we
don't want any Home Defenders hurt, ...just the
Enemy.
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY DON'T LOAD
THIS DE'VICE UNTIT YOU ARE READY TO
PLANT IT,

5. MORE WAYS TO BLOW' A TIRE

A twelve gauge shotgun cartridge is the only size


that will easily fit a common water pipe size
without machining, that is 3/4" pipe. The .800"
outside diameter of the shell will go into the .824
inside diameter pipe wlth .024 to spare
(theoretically). It is a snug fit and you probably
will have to clean up burrs and blobs of
galvanizing, but it will work. The only other
'possible' 's to put a 28 gauge shell into a 1/2"
pipe. The shell is .615 diameter and the pipe is
supposed to be .622, but allowing for
manufacturing tolerances 1t may, or may not,
work without considerable 'cleanup'. If you have
access to a lathe you can chuck up a 1" diameter
rod of steel (cold rolled or equivalent) 3-1/2 -
4"" long, and bore out as follows; For 12 ga.
bore 13/16" (.8125) For 16 ga. bore 3+" ( . 750)
For 20 ga. bore 23/32" (.718) For 28 ga. bore
5/8" ( .625) For 410 ga. bore 31/6g" (.g8g) or
1/2" (.500) It might also be interesting to try one
of these bored out pieces by not boring all the
way through, but Just enough to take the
cartridge. The whole thing should move like a
ROCKET.

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6. GASOLINE GRIEF

Leave a full gallon gasoline can in cabin, or outbuilding, where it can be stolen,
but be sure to spike it with a couple of cups of sugar first. Shake well to help
dissolve the sugar into the gas. Sugar, upon being burned in a motor, turns 1nto an
abrasive almost as hard as a diamond. This scores the pistons and motor block,
usually beyond saving. Don't put in too much sugar because this will merely gum
up the carburetor and stop the motor before the pistons can be damaged, and we
don't want that to happen. A related trick, similar In intent, is to open a can of
motor oil, pour out some (like a cupful) and put a handful of abrasive into what 1s
left. 'Carefully wipe away any abrasive spilled on the outside, plug the hole with
rolled-up paper, and shake well to mix the grit into the oil. This will give the
impression that you opened a can to get enough oil to fill a 'squirt can' and are
saving the rest. Even though most of the abrasive will settle out if left long
enough there will always be enough in suspension. to cause the thief considerable
grief. Though abrasive is the kind used for grinding valves, or can be obtained
from a 'rock shop' where it is sold for polishing rocks by tumbling them in a drum.
400 grit or 600 grit (or finer) is best because 1t stays in suspension longer.

7. FISH HOOKS

There are excellent uses for fish hooks, preferably old, used, rusty ones with
decayed fish still clinging to them. Any kind or size of fish hook is good but the
best are the three pronged ones. They hook from any side, but even single hooks
will do. The simplest trick is to tie the hooks firmly to the tips of bushes beside
the bike trail so that as the Enemy Soldier rides by he brushes against them and is
hooked, some times Just by his uniform, or better yet by the skin. A method that
may produce better results is a 'trot-line' effect with the line strung from one bush,
or tree, to another across the trail. To those of you who haven't had the
advantages of a mid-West fishing boyhood a 'trot-line' is a main line hung
between two points with a number of short lines tied to it at 1ntervals with hooks
on the ends of the short lines. The advantage is that if' the Sold1er does ride
through he 1s sure to be hooked. The disadvantage is that he might notice it and
ride around to avoid it. That last sentence suggests another trick. Pick the most
obvious path by which to 'go around' and booby-trap it with a buried trap. A way
to get almost the same effect is to lash a number of hooks to bushes beside the
trail, their. tie a plain line across the trail, anchored at each end to the branches
with the hooks, so that when he rides through the line pulls the two branches
against him, thus assuring a 'strike', OUCH!

8. T.V PICTURE TUBE TRICK

With so many television sets in use it is not hard


to find a burned-out picture tube. THIS MAKES
AN EXCELLENT BOOBY-TRAP. Bury one 1n
a bike trail just deep enough to put about an inch
of dirt on top, and scatter the rest of the dirt. The
tube is buried 'face up', in other words the
surface that you look at is up. Pack dirt around
the tube to give it firm support. When a
motorcycle tire impacts against this It will, of
course, shatter. Since it is a 'vacuum' tube the
implosion will send glass shards f1ylng like a

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bomb. This is one thing television repair men


have to watch out for, and why they are so
careful in handling these tubes. It makes a
picture for the Home Defender to smilingly
contemplate; an Enemy Soldier driving over one
of these, his front wheel suddenly dropping
down a foot at the same time daggers of glass
come flying around. GREAT !!! An empty five
gallon water bottle, like Sparkletts), works just
about as well.

9. WHEEL GRABBER

There is used in the construction trade what is


known as 'pencil rod', a steel rod about the
diameter of an ordinary pencil. This size lends
itself to an interesting, and devilish device
known as a "wheel grabber". (How do I know it
1s known as that? I just named it.) Take a piece
of this pencil rod about two and a half feet long,
bend six inches of the ends at a right angle (90
degrees), both pointing the same way. Dig a hole
across a bike trail a foot deep, a foot wide and a
couple of feet long. Place across this pit one of
the wheel grabbers with the bent ends up. Make
sure the ends will stay up by some simple way
like twigs pushed into the ground next to them,
or a convenient rock. Place a cover over the
hole, (like cardboard), and cover lightly with
dirt. When a biker rides over this the rod will be
bent so that the ends will be forced into the
spokes. It is hard to have a wheel turn after it has
had a steel rod Jammed into It, carried up and
wedged up under the frame and / or fender.

10. TIP BOARDS

This is a variation of the Spike Board and can


cause much more serious damage, either to the
Enemy Soldier or to the motorcycle, or both. In
effect a 'Tip Board' is a Spike Board with one
end extending over a pit so that when a cycle
drives over it the board is 'tipped' so that one end
is in the pit, solidly lodged against one side,
while the other end is raised up against either the
cycle, or the Soldier ,or both. The amount and
kind of damage this can do depends on how
carefully designed the set-up is and where, and
how big and what kind of spikes are driven into
the board. The least it can do is to flip the bike.
How hard of course depends on how fast the
machine was traveling at the moment of impact.
Anyplace you expect a fall you can hide
sharpened spikes to add to the fun and

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festivities. The spikes in the part that raises up


should be driven into the end a couple of inches
to hold them solidly, then the head of the spike
sawed off and the 'stub' filed to a sharp point.
This way it can stab a nice hole in either the
biker or the crankcase of the motorcycle. It is
difficult to retain oil in a crankcase that has been
punctured, just a leg could leak a bit with a deep
hole torn in it.

11. FLIP WIRE

A heavy mire or cable stretched at an angle


across the tra1l will suddenly change the
direction of travel of the front end of a cycle, the
resulting action being "...ears over teakettle",
with, hopefully, broken parts. If the terrain and
vegetation allows the easiest way is to tie the
w1re at ground level around a heavy bush or
small tree, lead it across the trail at about a 45
degree angle to shoulder-high in another tree. It
should be designed so that the wire will be hit
slightly above the axle area of the front wheel. If
it hits too low the cycle might climb over it and
you wouldn't get quite the interesting results you
expect. If 'there is no tree or heavy bush
conveniently placed for the ground level tie you
can use what is known in the construction trade
as a "dead man". This is merely a board, or a
section of tree limb, or a cement block, etc...
buried in the ground a foot or two and placed at
right angles to the 'line of pull' so you can anchor
to it. The 'direction of throw' is determined by
which side of the trail the ground level tie is
placed, so, naturally, if the trail leads along the
edge of a cliff or gully you place the low end
next; to the drop-off. This compounds the fun.

12. POWER HACK SAW BOARD

This is still another variation of the Spike Board,


using a heavy (l.5" or 2" wide) power hack saw
such as is used in machine shops. Even though
the blade is too dulled to cut metal it will work
fine on rubber. Mount it on a board as shown in
the illustrations. They are particularly effective
when planted at the bottom of a hill. Just make
sure the cutting edge of the teeth point 'uphill'.
Under the kind of acceleration needed to push a
motorcycle and rider up a steep hill this would
'saw' through a tire completely around the
circumference, leaving the tire in two halves.
This makes it rather difficult to patch. These old
saw blades can be gotten from most any machine

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shop. If there aren't any in-the scrap barrel ask


the manager to save you some.

13. NECK WIRES

Wires stung 'neck high' to a bike rider can be fatal to an Enemy Soldier. A broken
neck will seriously hamper a Soldiers activities. Ideal wire to use is very thin
'piano wire' lightly daubed with a dark brown or black paint to kill the shine. Since
this wire has a tensile strength of something like 100,000 pounds per square inch
it can be stretched between two trees very tightly. Any wire will do the job, even
rusty barbed wire. Barbed wire has the advantage of gouging deep scratches even
if it misses the neck area and only pulls across the chest and arms. This smarts,
especially 1f the rider is thrown and gets dirt in the wounds. A variation is a loop
hung down from a tree limb. This will act as a noose and as it tightens around the
riders neck it will pull him off the cycle. He will probably have some difficulty in
breathing.

14. TIN TROUBLE

This is a variation of the Tip Board which is a variation of the Spike Board which
is ...Oh, well, here it is. If you can find a sheet of tin not over a couple of feet
wide and five or six feet long you have all the material you need for this trick. An
old piece of corrugated roofing will work just fine. Dig a pit across a b1ke path
just as wide as your sheet of tin, and about two and a half or three feet long and
about a foot and a half deep. Carefully place the tin across this -ao it is centered,
(with the long way pointing along the path), that is from the middle of the pit to
each end of the tin 1s the same distance. Cover the tin with the dirt dug out of the
pit to make sure it is hidden. When an Enemy Soldier drives his bike onto this it
will suddenly sag in the middle and the ends will rise up into position to gouge the
riders ankles and/or slash the back tire... possibly flipping bike and rider in the
process. A CIIEERFUL THOUGHT.

15. MORE SPIKE VARIATIONS

Let's not overlook the simpler forms of 'spikes', like a big washer with a bolt
fastened through it and the tlp of the bolt sharpened either by grinding or filing.
This will look like an oversize roofing nail. Incidentally roofing nails are not very
effective on dirt, they require solid backing like pavement, so don't waste much
time on them, although they are better than nothing. If you have a supply of
roofing nails and want to use them for this purpose the simplest way is to drive
them through a small piece of tin and lay the tin on the trail. This keeps the nail
pointing up, and if it is one of the longer type, like 1.5 or 2" it will puncture a tire.
A section of steel rod sharpened and planted in a trail with an inch or so of the
sharpened end up works great. Why limit to steel, even brass or aluminum works.
A piece of pipe with the end sharpened by sawing off at a sharp angle is very
usable. It resembles (and acts like) a heavy chisel or gouge. A couple of inches
sticking up in the middle of a trail will really 'do the Job'. What common items
have I missed???

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USE YOURIMAGINATION...AND HAVE FUN !!!

Well there you have it. The Earth First "Death Manual", uncut and
uncensored. By posting this to the net, we will have undoubtedly "put it in
the hands" of even more of the lunatic fringe, than have it already, but the
important thing is that we have brought it to the attention of the people most
likely to benifit from it. That is, You , your family, and fellow off-roaders who
could be hurt or killed by these Eco Terrorists. Off-Road.com holds no
copyright on this material. We encourage you to copy this article, print it,
and distribute it to your fellow off-roaders who do not have access to a
computer or the net. You could even bring it to your next club meeting.
Forewarned is forearmed......

Norm Lenhart - Editor - VW's & Sand Cars

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