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E.A.S.Y. Jewelry Making System™ Video Courses for Making Beautiful Jewelry Quickly and Easily ______________________________________________________________________________________

Welcome!
From: Eri Attebery

Dear Aspiring Jewelry Maker, Congratulations on your decision to take this Video Home-Study Course! Before we get started, just a quick reminder about this Jewelry Making video instruction system and why I believe you will find it very effective. When you learn to make jewelry, you basically have three options: OPTION 1: You can learn from studying books or following instructions on printed patterns. OPTION 2: You can take a jewelry making class taught by an instructor. OPTION 3: You can learn on your own by watching an instructor give lessons on a video. From my experience working with students face-to-face, and using video instruction, I think OPTION 3 is by far the best. Here’s why. When I started teaching others how to make jewelry I learned that my students could quickly grasp the basics of how to make jewelry while they were in class watching and following what I was doing. But as is the case with all newly learned skills, the problems started once my students left the class, went home with a jewelry kit and written instructions showing the pattern we had learned, and tried to make the jewelry piece again. Many of my students could not re-create what they had already learned, even while looking at the pattern on the written instructions!

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I still teach many classes face-to-face with and I enjoy it very much. However, as my story above illustrates, there are some downsides to taking a class. The major one is that you once you leave the class, you will quickly start to forget things. Then you will be lost and will become frustrated, or have to spend money again taking another class just to remember what you already learned. After seeing many of my students deal with this problem, that's when I decided to produce step-by-step videos of me making each jewelry piece I taught in class. Each video showed, with very clear close-ups action shots, exactly how to make the jewelry. It was a simple three-step formula: Watch Me Make the Jewelry, Copy What I Do, and Repeat on Your Own. The bottom line is that with a video instruction system you can watch everything in full motion 3-dimensional video instead of spending your time with difficult-to-understand, frustrating, and time-consuming directions on a 2-dimensional piece of paper, or without taking a class where you will forget things that you learned. With video instruction, you can simply play the video again anytime you need to remember a part you have forgotten. With video instruction, you learn at whatever pace is comfortable for you versus feeling pressured in a class to go at the instructor's pace, or feeling like you are being slowed down by the pace of the class if you are a very quick learner. With video instruction, you can take lessons right in the comfort of your own home no matter where you live. There are many other advantages to learning by using video, but now it’s time for action so that you can for yourself how effective this is. Before you watch the first video, please look through the table of contents below. You will see that I have included other valuable information to help you with your jewelry making. Here’s to your success! Sincerely yours, Eri Attebery

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E.A.S.Y. Jewelry Making System™ Video Courses for Making Beautiful Jewelry Quickly and Easily ______________________________________________________________________________________

1. Terms of Use 2. Welcome! 3. Table of Contents 4. The E.A.S.Y. Jewelry Making System™ 5. Class 1 Key Points Reference Guide 6. Class 1 Materials 7. Class 1 Video Transcript 8. Class 2 Key Points Reference Guide 9. Class 2 Materials 10. Class 2 Video Transcript 11. Required Materials for Bead Necklace 12. Links to Video Classes

2 3 5 6 8 11 17 23 25 32 37 38

13. Recommended Suppliers and Resources 39

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The E.A.S.Y. Jewelry Making System™
Why do I call this system EASY? First, it’s because I believe that watching video lessons is the easiest way to learn jewelry making. Here are just a few of the advantages: 1) With video instruction, you can simply play the video again anytime you need to remember a part that you aren’t clear about, or may have forgotten if some time has passed since you last made the jewelry piece. Believe me, when you get to the point where you can make hundreds of different designs you will get confused if you sit down to make a piece you haven’t made in a while. You can get right back up to speed by simply watching an instructional video as a refresher. 2) With video instruction, you learn at whatever pace is comfortable for you. If you take a face-to-face class with an instructor you may feel pressured to go at the instructor's pace, or that you are slowing down the class. On the flip side, if you are a very quick learner, you may feel that the pace of the class is too slow. With a video, you go at whatever pace you are comfortable with. 3) With video instruction, you can take lessons right in the comfort of your own home no matter where you live. It’s nice to be able to take the lessons without having to go anywhere. You are not tied to anyone else’s schedule. You can watch whenever you please. The second important point about the E.A.S.Y. Jewelry Making System™ is that each letter in the word EASY also represents a step in the process that I recommend you follow when learning to make jewelry by watching videos. I have learned through experience with my students that following these steps gives the best results. How long you spend on each step depends on your level of experience. As you progress, eventually you will probably do steps E and Y at the same time, but to start I recommend going through each step and then aim for gradual improvement as you continue to learn. Let’s take a closer look at each step.

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E = Examine
Before you attempt to make the jewelry piece, watch (Examine) the video lesson all the way through once without stopping. This gives you a good feel for the final piece you will make and the steps along the way. It’s a good warm-up before you get down to business.

A = Associate
Now watch the lesson again. But this time be especially attentive to specific techniques that are used in making the jewelry piece. To help learn those techniques in your head (Associate) before you start actually making the piece, stop the video at key places and rewind and watch again until you feel confident that you mentally have a good handle on how to make the jewelry.

S = Simulate
Now it’s time to take what you have learned in your head and put it into your hands by making (Simulate) the jewelry piece while watching the video lesson. Get all the necessary tools and materials together and actually make the jewelry as you watch the video lesson. Pause the video, rewind, and repeat as necessary.

Y = Do it Yourself
Now that you have successfully made the jewelry piece, it’s time to see if you can do it on your own (Yourself) without the help of the video. The best way to start this is to take the piece you already make while watching the video and place it in front of you so you can refer to it while making a new piece. If you do get hung up while making the jewelry, go directly to the part of the video where you need help. Repeat the process until you no longer need to watch the video. Now you’ve mastered it and can fly solo! ******************************************************************************************** Follow these four steps and you will master jewelry making quicker than you ever imagined, without having to decipher written patterns or spend money and time attending classes. It’s a great feeling of satisfaction! Also, once you’ve mastered how to make a jewelry piece you have the added benefit of being able to teach your friends or family how to make jewelry. When they ask, “How did you make that?” Just say, “Let me show you!”

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Class 1 Key Points Reference Guide
Below are listed the Key Points which you will see in this Class 1 video. After studying the video, you can refer back to these key points as memory joggers. Swarovski crystal beads and Czech fire polished beads are very different.
All Swarovski crystals are made by Swarovski in the same factory. That means you will get the exact same color and quality every time. On the other hand, Czech fire polished beads are made by several different manufacturers. Each manufacturer has their own coloring processes, so each lot of beads will have slight color variations. This means that you are not guaranteed to get the exact same shade of whichever color you order when you order Czech fire polished beads.

Slight differences in bead sizes make a big difference in the jewelry design.
If you purchase 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm crystal beads, even though there’s only a 1mm difference between them they are quite different in size. Be sure to change the size of the beads you are using based on the size of jewelry you want to create.

Some Swarovski crystal beads have special coatings like satin and AB.
In addition to standard bead colors, Swarovski also produces a variety of beads that are covered with a special coating. Examples of this are when you see Swarovski crystal beads that say AB or Satin. This means that you can find almost any color you can imagine in Swarovski crystals.

Japanese seed beads and Czech seed beads are different.
There are two primary types of seed beads, Czech seed beads and Japanese seed beads. The disadvantage of Czech seed beads is that they sometimes have inconsistent in sizes which can cause difficulties when you are weaving beads together. On the other hand, Japanese seed beads are very consistent. The holes in the beads tend to be the same size so even when you weave many times through the same hole you can pass a nylon string through without any problem.

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To straighten out the coil shape in nylon string, run it through steam.
When you take new nylon string off a spool, it will form into a coil shape which will make it more difficult to weave jewelry. To straighten out the string boil water and when the steam rises from the boiling water, pass the nylon string through the steam coming up from the boiling water. After you pass the string through from one side to the other, the string that was in a coil shape will become straight, almost as if you were able to iron out the curves in the string. Working with a straight string will make weaving much easier for you, and will help you to weave quicker.

Use a slim version of Beadalon Nylon coated wire when stringing.
When stringing jewelry use Nylon Coated Stainless Steel Wire from a company called Beadalon. For this type of wire there are various thicknesses, but use wire that is as thin as possible which is best for making delicate jewelry. This wire is made very strong and sturdy, and can even handle beads that are quite heavy. Nylon coated wire from Beadalon doesn’t change shape that much, even after bending it many times compared to standard nylon coated wire.

Use a Flush Cutter tool for precise cutting of nylon string and thin wire.
You use a Flush Cutter in the same way you use scissors. The blades of a Flush Cutter are very sharp so you can use them to cut both thin wire and nylon string. When you use the Flush Cutter make sure that you do not attempt to cut thick wire. The very precise blades of the Flush Cutter can be easily damaged.

Use Round Nose Pliers that are fine tipped and have a spring inside.
Use fine tipped round nose pliers when you create pin work jewelry. Also, make sure not to use a pair of round nose pliers that don’t have a spring inside. The spring makes it much easier to close and open the pliers.

Use Chain Nose Pliers for crimping crimp beads and opening jump rings.
Chain Nose Pliers look similar to round nose pliers, but are flat on the end.

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You can use chain nose pliers for pinching crimp beads, but you can also use them along with your round nose pliers for opening and closing jump rings.

Use a Bead Mat to keep beads from rolling around while you work.
A Bead Mat is made from a thick felt like material. The mat keeps your beads from rolling around while you make your jewelry. This makes your work much more efficient since you can keep the beads right in front of you while you work.

Use Bead Trays to keep beads organized while you are working.
Bead Trays help you keep different types of beads organized and separate from each other while you make your jewelry.

Use a Design Board to help you design necklaces and bracelets.
A Design Board has grooves measured in inches so you can line up the beads to see what your necklace or bracelet will look like before you start making it.

Use GS Hypo Cement to give your jewelry extra strength and security.
GS Hypo Cement is a very strong type of cement that is very useful when finishing your jewelry. Using this cement will give you more confidence in the sturdiness of your jewelry. Unlike “Super Glue” which bonds immediately, this cement will not bond immediately so you don’t have to worry about your fingers sticking together.

Use a Beads Case to keep your beads organized when not in use.
When you progress in your jewelry making and have more beads to keep organized, you can use a Beads Case. A Beads Case has smaller cases that fit into a larger case. Each smaller case has its own lid, and you can easily put in and take out your beads as needed. You can also label the smaller cases so that you know exactly which beads are which.

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Class 1 Materials
Here are the materials discussed in the video class: 1) Swarovski Crystal Beads
Swarovski 5301 Bicone style beads are probably the most frequently used style of Swarovski bead, particularly for bead weaving. From left to right, you can see the 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm sizes. Even though there’s only a 1mm difference between these you can see they appear quite different in size, so based on the size of jewelry you want to create be sure to change the size of the beads you are using.

2) Japanese Seed Beads
Japanese seed beads are very small and have a round shape. The smaller seed beads are called size 11 (11/0) and larger ones are called size 8 (8/0). Whether you use the large seed beads or the small ones depends on the type of jewelry you are creating, and also the size of the Swarovski beads you are using. Japanese seed beads are very consistent, the holes tend to be the same size so when you weave many times through the same hole you can pass the string through without any problem.

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3) Nylon String
Nylon string is normally sold in this form. So when you are making jewelry, after you cut the nylon string, it will form into a coil shape making it more difficult to weave your jewelry. To straighten the string, boil water and when the steam rises from the boiling water, pass the nylon string through the steam coming up from the boiling water. After you pass the string through from one side to the other, the string will become straight.

4) Nylon Coated Wire
For Bead Stringing, use Nylon Coated Stainless Steel Wire from a company called Beadalon. It is made very strong and sturdy, and can handle beads that are quite heavy. Another important feature of the nylon coated wire from Beadalon is that it doesn’t change shape much, even after bending it (many times), compared to standard nylon coated wire. Even if you bend the wire around a bit it will still go back to the original shape.

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5) Flush Cutter
You use this tool in the same way you use scissors. The blades are very sharp so you can use them to cut both thin wire and nylon string. When you use the flush cutter make sure that you do not attempt to cut thick wire. The blades of the flush cutter are very precise and can easily be damaged so make sure you only use them to cut nylon string and thin wire.

6) Round Nose Pliers
When you create pin work jewelry use fine tipped round nose pliers. Also, test the strength of the spring inside the pliers. There are pliers that don’t use a spring, but pliers with a spring work much better.

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7) Chain Nose Pliers
Chain nose pliers look similar to the round nose pliers but part of the end of the pliers is completely flat, not round. You can use the chain nose pliers to pinch crimp beads. You can also use it for opening and closing jump rings when you use it along with your round nose pliers.

8) Bead Mat
A bead mat is made from a thick felt like material. On top of this mat your beads will not roll around all over the place. You can keep the beads right in front of you without worrying about them getting away. This also helps you save time when you are making jewelry.

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9) Bead Tray
Bead trays keep the beads organized in different trays while you are making jewelry.

10) Design Board
A design board has grooves that are measured in inches. You can line up the beads in these grooves and it will give you a feel for what your necklace or bracelet will look like before you start making it.

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11) GS Hypo Cement
GS Hypo Cement is very useful when you are finishing your jewelry. If you are concerned that certain sections of your jewelry may eventually get looser than you would like, or maybe even you are worried about a section breaking, after you finish your jewelry piece you can use this cement on those areas to give you more confidence in the sturdiness of your jewelry.

12) Beads Case
When you progress in your jewelry making and you start having more beads to keep organized, you can get a beads case. You can fit three levels of smaller cases into a larger case. Each smaller case you has its own lid, and you can easily put in and take out your beads as needed.

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Class 1 – Video Transcript
Before we start our lessons I want to show you some of the tools and techniques that will be very helpful to you. Right now, I have two kinds of beads in front of me. It might be difficult to tell the differences between these beads, but they are actually very different. Both of them are 8mm round beads, but these are Swarovski crystal beads, and these are Czech fire polished beads. The key difference is that all Swarovski crystals are made by Swarovski in the same factory. That means you will get the exact same color and quality every time. On the other hand, Czech fire polished beads are made by several different manufacturers. Each manufacturer has their own coloring processes, so each lot of beads will have slight color variations. This means that you are not guaranteed to get the exact same shade of “olive color” when you order “olive color” Czech fire polished beads. So please remember that if you get Swarovski crystals you can expect that the beads will be the exact same color each time. Also, you hear the word “Crystal” all the time but you may not know exactly what it is so let me talk about that. Crystal is clear glass which contains oxidized lead. Oxidized lead is added to make the glass more clear. Not only clearness but also the glass sparkles and becomes heavier making it closer to natural crystal. Typically man-made crystal contains about 24 to 25 percent oxidized lead. But Swarovski crystal contains much more than that. Each Swarovski crystal bead contains about 32 percent oxidized lead. They don’t go beyond 32 percent since this level is near the limit to make crystals in various shapes.

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This is why when you compare Swarovski crystal beads to Czech fired polished beads, Swarovski crystals sparkle much brighter and feel as solid as natural crystals. There really is a big difference between the two. What you are looking at now is what’s called…. Swarovski 5000 series. You can see / they have a rounded shape. On this training video / we won’t be using this shape of beads, but you will be using these beads often when you make your jewelry pieces so please remember this size and shape. Now I would like to show and explain a little bit about the beads that we are going to use in this DVD. What I’m lining up here now are the Swarovski fifty three O one, 5301 bicone style beads. These are probably the most frequently used style of Swarovski bead, particularly for when you are using a weaving technique for making Swarovski crystal jewelry. From left to right, we have the 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm. Even though there’s only a 1mm difference between these you can see they appear quite different in size, so based on the size of jewelry you want to create be sure to change the size of the beads you are using. You can see clearly what I explained a second ago that when you buy Swarovski crystals no matter what size you buy, the color will be exactly the same, in this case Swarovski’s olive color which is called olivine at Swarovski. Also keep in mind that not only for standard colors, but Swarovski also produces a variety of special beads that are covered with a special coating, for example, when you see beads that say AB or Satin. What this means is that you can find almost any color you can imagine in Swarovski crystals. Next, let’s look at another type of bead that we are going to use in our lessons. Here they are. These are called seed beads. As you can see, these seed beads are very small and have a round shape. There is also a larger version of seed beads which you can see here next to the smaller version. The smaller seed beads are called size 11 (11/0) and larger ones are called size 8 (8/0). Whether you use the large seed beads or the small ones depends on the type of jewelry you are creating, and also the size of the Swarovski beads you are using.

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However, these size 8 seed beads are the ones you will use more frequently (in the jewelry you create). Also, there are actually seed beads that are even smaller than these. These are called size15. For seed beads there are two primary types, Czech seed beads and Japanese seed beads. The type that I am using in these lessons will be the Japanese seed beads. The disadvantage of Czech seed beads is that they can sometimes have inconsistencies in the sizes, and this can cause difficulties sometimes when you are weaving the beads together. On the other hand, Japanese seed beads are very consistent, the holes tend to be the same size so even when you weave many times through the same hole you can pass the nylon string through without any problem. So I prefer to use them when I make jewelry. Next I want to talk about some things that are very useful to know about the nylon string you will use to weave jewelry. Nylon string is normally sold in this form. So when you are making jewelry with this just extend it out like this, and cut it like that. And you can see that after you cut the nylon string, it will form into a coil shape like this. When the string is in this coil shape, it makes it more difficult to weave your jewelry. But there is a technique you can use to make the string straighten out like this. What you do is boil water and when the steam rises from the boiling water, just pass the nylon string through the steam coming up from the boiling water. After you pass the string through from one side to the other, the string that was in a coil shape will become straight like this, almost as if you were able to iron out the curves in the string. This will make weaving much easier for you, and will help you to weave quicker saving you time. Next, I will go over the tools we will be using in these lessons. First, here is the tool I used just a second ago to cut the nylon string. This is called a flush cutter.

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You use this in the same way you use scissors. These are very sharp so you can use them to cut both thin wire and nylon string. For creating jewelry having this tool in your tool kit is very, very useful. When you use the flush cutter make sure that you do not attempt to cut thick wire. The blades of the flush cutter are very precise and can easily be damaged so make sure you only use them to cut nylon (weaving) string and thin wire. Next is this tool. These are called round nose pliers. As you can see, the tips of the round nose pliers are, as the name says, round. When you create pin work jewelry I highly recommend choosing the fine tipped round nose pliers. Also, you want to test the strength of the spring inside. You will find that there are pliers that don’t use a spring but I highly recommend getting a pair that uses a spring. And finally there’s one other tool that is very useful, and that’s this one. These are called chain nose pliers. It looks similar to the round nose pliers we saw a second ago, but if you look closely you can see on this part right here that it is completely flat, not round. You can use the chain nose pliers for pinching crimp beads, also for jump rings when you open and close them, you can take your chain nosed pliers and your round nose pliers together and use them together like this. So keep these three tools at hand when you are making your jewelry. They are very useful and will help you tremendously. Next I’d like to talk about this mat. This also is a very useful tool when you make your jewelry. This is called a beads mat. It is made from a thick felt like material. As you can see, on top of this mat your beads will not roll around all over the place and fall off the table, so it helps keep you from losing them. So when you keep your beads on top of the beads mat it makes your work much more efficient, and you can keep the beads right in front of you without worrying about them getting away from you. This also helps you save time when you are making jewelry. Next, another tool that is very useful when making your jewelry, and you’ve already seem me using these in this lesson. These are called bead trays.

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Keeping the beads organized in different trays like this is very useful and helpful to you. Next I want to show you a tool that you won’t need in these basic training lessons, but is something that will be very useful to you in the future as you progress in your jewelry making skills. This is called a design board. You can see on the design board that it is measured around here in inches, and in these grooves you can line up the beads and it will give you a feel for what your necklace or bracelet will look like before you start making it. Next, we have this which is a very strong type of cement. The type of cement I recommend is called GS Hypo Cement. This is very useful when you are finishing your jewelry. If you are concerned that certain sections of your jewelry may eventually get looser than you would like, or maybe even you are worried about a section breaking, after you finish your jewelry piece you can use this cement on those areas to give you more confidence in the sturdiness of your jewelry. Unlike “Super Glue” which bonds immediately, this cement will not bond immediately so you don’t have to worry about your fingers sticking together or anything like that. If you take a look at this, what’s very nice about it is that the tip where the cement comes out is very thin, so you can squeeze the cement out just a little bit at a time. So it’s very useful when you are doing detail work. Next, let’s talk about how to keep your beads organized. When you progress in your jewelry making and you start having more beads to keep organized, I recommend a case like this. You can see that I can fit three levels of smaller cases into this larger case. If you take a look here at the smaller cases you can see that each one has its own lid, and you can easily put in and take out your beads as needed. This type of case will be very useful for you, and in my case what I do for each of the cases is stick a label on the bottom that identifies the type of bead that is in the case and that way I always know what’s inside. When you are getting ready to use string to weave a piece of jewelry, it’s very important to select string with the right thickness before you begin weaving.

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However, if you are only going to run a string through the beads without doing any weaving, what I do is use this Nylon Coated Stainless Steel Wire from a company called Beadalon. This wire is made very strong and sturdy, and can even handle beads that are quite heavy. For this type of wire there are various thicknesses, but I like to use wire that is as thin as possible which I think is best for making delicate jewelry. Another interesting aspect of this type of wire is that it can tend to quickly lose its straight shape, meaning when you bend it a little / it stays bent. However, I’ve found that the nylon coated wire from Beadalon doesn’t change shape as much, even after bending it (many times), compared to standard nylon coated wire. As you can see even when I bend this wire around a bit it will still go back to the original shape. So I highly recommend you use this type of wire when you are only stringing jewelry. So those are the tools that I recommend which will make your jewelry making experience much easier and much more efficient So now let’s move on to our first lesson of how to make beaded jewelry.

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Class 2 Key Points Reference Guide
Below are listed the Key Points which you will see in this video of Class 2. After studying the video, you can refer back to these key points as memory joggers. There are two different methods for finishing the ends of the necklace.
One method uses a crimp bead, one uses a clam shell. Using the clam shell is better since you can hide the crimp bead inside the clam shell which gives the jewelry a much more professional look than having the crimp bead exposed.

When you start stringing make sure both wires go through the beads.
After you have put a clam shell on one end of the wire to start, the excess wire that you started with will be pointing back in the direction of the wire on which you will string the beads. When you start stringing the beads make sure that the beads go through both your main wire as well as the excess wire so that the excess wire is also hidden inside your strand of beads.

To make a longer necklace increase the number of times you repeat a pattern.
In the lesson we repeat the basic pattern (two seed beads and one Swarovski bead) 21 times for each half of the necklace to make it 14~16 inches long, which is a good size for a child. To increase the length of the necklace simply increase the number of times you repeat the pattern.

For the centerpiece use at least two different color beads to make the color flow nicely.
Try to use a color in the centerpiece which makes a nice focal point. In this lesson we use fuscia colored beads next to light rose colored beads to achieve this.

When opening jump rings don’t pull sideways but twist up with one hand and down with the other at the same time.
If you open the jump ring by pulling sideways it may change the shape of the jump ring and will not retain the same nice shape when you close it.

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When you crimp the crimp bead inside of the second clam shell to finish the necklace make sure to leave just a little space on the wire between the crimp bead and the inside edge of the clam shell.
The necklace will look much nicer if the beads don’t have the appearance of being crammed together on the wire. To give just a little room between the beads, leave just a little space, about the width of a seed bead, between the crimp bead and the inside edge of the clam shell when you are finishing the necklace. Be careful that you don’t leave too much space between the beads.

After you feed the excess wire back through the beads to finish the necklace make sure the wire emerges from one of your larger beads and not one of the smaller seed beads.
When someone is wearing the necklace the beads will move on the wire just a little bit. If you cut the excess wire as it emerges from one of the larger beads you will not have to worry about the end of the excess wire popping out when wearing the necklace.

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Class 2 Materials
Here are the materials discussed in this class: 1) Swarovski Crystal Beads
For the list of Swarovski crystal beads used in this lesson, click on the link below:

2) Japanese Seed Beads
For the list of seed beads used in this lesson, click on the link below:

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3) Nylon Coated Wire
For Bead Stringing, use Nylon Coated Stainless Steel Wire from a company called Beadalon. It is made very strong and sturdy, and can handle beads that are quite heavy. For the type of nylon coated wire used in this lesson, click on the link below:

4) Spring Ring Clasp
This part is called a spring ring which is a type of clasp used to put on and take off the necklace when wearing it. For the type of spring ring used in this lesson, click on the link below:

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5) Extender
This part is called an extender. It is used with the spring ring. This extender allows you to make a necklace up to 2 inches longer. . For the type of extender used in this lesson, click on the link below:

6) Clam Shell
These are called clam shells. You can use these to hide both the finished ends of the necklace. For the type of clam shell used in this lesson, click on the link below:

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7) Crimp Beads
These are called crimp beads. They are placed at the end of the wire, and then pinched using your chain nose pliers to finish.

8) Jump Rings
These are called as jump rings. They have a slight gap where you can use your chain nose pliers and round nose pliers together to open up the ring. This allows us to use jump rings to connect different parts together.

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9) Flush Cutter
You use this tool in the same way you use scissors. The blades are very sharp so you can use them to cut both thin wire and nylon string. When you use the flush cutter make sure that you do not attempt to cut thick wire. The blades of the flush cutter are very precise and can easily be damaged so make sure you only use them to cut nylon string and thin wire.

10) Round Nose Pliers
When you create pin work jewelry use fine tipped round nose pliers. They can also be used along with chain nose pliers to open jump rings. Also, test the strength of the spring inside the pliers. There are pliers that don’t use a spring, but pliers with a spring work much better.

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11) Chain Nose Pliers
Chain nose pliers look similar to the round nose pliers but part of the end of the pliers is completely flat, not round. You can use the chain nose pliers to pinch crimp beads. You can also use it for opening and closing jump rings when you use it along with your round nose pliers.

12) Bead Mat
A bead mat is made from a thick felt like material. On top of this mat your beads will not roll around all over the place. You can keep the beads right in front of you without worrying about them getting away. This also helps you save time when you are making jewelry.

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13) Bead Tray
Bead trays keep the beads organized in different trays while you are making jewelry.

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Class 2 – Video Transcript
Now I would like to show you how to make a wired necklace. To start let me first explain what these parts are that you see on your screen. This first part is called a spring ring which is a kind of clasp. This is called an extender which will be used with the spring ring I just introduced. This extender allows us to make a necklace up to 2 inches longer. These are called clam shells which will be used to hide the finished end. And these are called crimp beads. These are placed at the end of the wire or string, and then just pinched with chain nose pliers to finish. These are called jump rings. They have a slight gap as you can see, and we use them when we connect different parts together. To start our wired necklace, I am going to show you two different ways of starting a wired necklace. First I will show you the way that is normally used and you will see this method in many hand crafted jewelry pieces you see at stores. First, you put the wire through a crimp bead, then you pass the wire through the loop of a spring ring. Then you bring the end of wire back around to the crimp bead and pass it through the crimp bead from the other side. After you pass the wire through the crimp bead, please make sure that the length of wire that you passed back through the crimp bead is about 2 inches in length. Then pinch the crimp bead with the chain nose pliers, the tool that has the flat surface. Squeeze the crimp bead with the chain nose pliers and that secures this section. Now is the point where you would start stringing the beads onto the wire, but in this lesson I am not going to use this way …..

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In a moment I’ll show you the way that I do it, but first I want you to take a close look at this part. It may be a little difficult to see, but with this way the wire is still exposed and visible. The problem with this is for example if the wire rubs up against something it could break, and also to be honest it just doesn’t have a very professional look. So now I’ll show you the way that I do it. With the way I do it, I use this part here, a clam shell. First I take the wire, and pass it through the bottom part of the clam shell like this. Next, we put on a crimp bead. With the crimp bead about 2 inches from the end of the wire, we take the chain nose pliers and crimp the bead. Next we pass the wire back through the same hole. When we do this, as you can see our crimp bead is not exposed and we will be able to hide it. So that you can better see what I’m talking about I’ll close the clam shell now using the chain nose pliers. So you can see that the crimp bead is completely hidden. Next, we take the spring ring and place it onto the hook part. Then we bend down the edge of the hook like this. So after we do that, it looks like this. Now we will take this and start putting on the beads. After I put on several beads I think you will be able to see what I was talking about a moment ago. As you will see, with this way you won’t see the wire. We have 2 strings of wire here, and you want to make sure that when you put the beads on that you put both wires through the beads. Now you can clearly see the difference between this method and the other. If you look closely, all you will see here are sterling silver parts, you can’t see any portion of the wire. So in my lessons this is the technique that I will use. In my opinion, the result has a much more professional look than the other method. To start stringing, first you put on 2 seed beads, then put one 4mm Crystal clear Swarovski bead.

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You just repeat this same process a total of 21 times. I am making this necklace 14 to 16 inch long for a little girl but you can add more beads to make a longer necklace. 2 seed beads then 1 clear Swarovski… 2 seed beads then 1 clear Swarovski… When you put the wires through the beads, make sure that both wires are going through the beads. Like this, both wires have to go through the beads. I will keep demonstrating the same thing here until the shorter wire no longer shows. Now you will slide the beads down both wires like this. Now you can see that the short wire has become completely concealed inside the beads we just put on. Let me show you once more how I did this. Here you have two wires. When you slide the beads down they completely cover the end of the short wire so that you only have 1 wire left. So now you just repeat what we’ve done until you have a total of 21 clear Swarovski beads on the string. Go ahead and do that now and then we’ll go on to the next step. Ok. Now we have done that 21 times. 2 seed beads and 1 Swarovski…and then finished the process by putting on 2 seed beads. I am now going to move on and create the center piece of the necklace. I am going to change the color here and make the center part with 2 different colored Swarovski beads. Using 2 different shade color beads will make the color flow nicely. First one light rose Swarovski bead and 2 seed beads…then I use a fuscia colored Swarovski bead, which make a nice focal point, then 2 seed beads. Next a light rose Swarovski, and 2 seed beads. And with that we have the necklace half finished.

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Now I am going to put on the center piece of the necklace which is a Swarovski crystal in the shape of a flower. To put the flower on the necklace, we need to use both the round nose pliers and the chain nose pliers. Using these two tools, open this jump ring and attach the flower shaped crystal bead. To open jump rings, you hold both pliers in each hand and grab the jump ring right next to the gap. Then, open like this. Not pulling side ways, you open it by twisting up and twisting down at the same time. If you open a jump ring by pulling side ways, it may change the ring shape and it won’t close very well when you try to close it. After you put the flower piece on, use both pliers to grab both sides of the ring near the gap like this, and turn like that to return the ring to the original position before you opened it. Now you can see that we’ve closed it in a way that looks very nice and professional. Now we take the wire and pass it through the ring like this. Next, just like we did a while ago, we put on two seed beads, then a light colored Swarovski bead, then two more seed beads, then a fuscia Swarovski bead, then again two more seed beads, and then a light rose Swarovski bead. That will complete the middle part of the necklace. Next, in the same way we did the first half of the necklace, we put on two seed beads, then a Swarovski crystal bead. Please go ahead and repeat this same pattern 21 times and then we’ll go on to the next step. So just like we did with the first half, we repeated the pattern 21 times for the remaining half. As you can see we now have created both haves to look the same. Now we will move on to the last part and finish the wire. To do this, in the same way we have already learned, pass the wire through the bottom of the clam shell part, then put on the crimp bead.

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Next we are going to crimp the crimp bead inside the clam shell part, but one thing to be careful about is / if we crimp the bead right down next to the exact edge inside the clam shell part, and then we close the two sides of the clam shell part, there will be no space at all between the beads and they just don’t look or feel as nice compared to leaving a little bit of room between them. So watch closely when I crimp the crimp bead I will move it up just a little bit, only about the width of a seed bead. It’s just a little bit of space but it really makes a big difference. You also want to make sure that you don’t put in too much space as the beads will them be too loose. After you’ve crimped the crimp bead, just like we did before, run the wire back through the hole, and pull it down like this. Then, just like we did earlier we take the wire and feed it through our beads to a length of about 2 inches. If the wire comes out before you’ve reached the two inches, just take it and feed it back in like this. You can see that we passed it through about this much. The next thing you want to make sure of is that your wire doesn’t emerge from one of your seed beads, but make sure it emerged from one of your Swarovski beads. If you make sure that the wire comes out from one of your larger beads, after you cut the wire you don’t have to worry about the end or the wire popping out when you or someone are wearing the necklace and the beads move a little bit on the wire. So now with our wire coming out at about 2 inches, we take the flash cutter and cut the wire. Then we close the two sides of the clam shell part with our flat nosed pliers. In this lesson I’m not doing it, but when I make an actual piece of jewelry for someone, I use the cement and put a little bit on the crimp bead before I close the clamshell. So remember that tip when you use these techniques to make finished jewelry pieces. After we’ve closed the clam shell, we take the extender part and place it on the hook like this… then with the round nose pliers bend the hook down like this, and finally squeeze it just a little more with your flat nosed pliers. Then, you’ve finished your necklace.

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Required Materials for Bead Necklace Class

Part Class 2 – Stringing a Bead Necklace Swarovski #5301 Swarovski #5301 Swarovski #5301 Swarovski #6744 Miyuki Seed Beads Spring Ring Necklace Extender Clam Shells Jump Rings Crimp Beads Nylon Coated Wire

Size 4mm 4mm 4mm 12mm 11/0 5.5mm Crystal

Type

Qty 42 4 2 1 100 1 1 2 3 2 1

Lt. Rose Fuchsia Fuchsia Crystal Silver line Sterling Silver Sterling Silver

Double .150 0.12”

Sterling Silver Sterling Silver Base Metal Beadalon 19 Bright White

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Links to Video Classes
Below is the link to the two video classes. Please turn on your speakers and make sure mute is off. When you click on the link please wait a few moments for the video to start. Also, make sure you bookmark the webpage so that you can go back and revisit the video if you need to.

Click On Link Below to Watch Your Video Classes

 Bead Necklace Quick Start Guide Videos 
If you have any questions about the video, please feel free to email me at eri@jewelrymakingprofessor.com

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Recommended Suppliers and Resources
Below is a list of online suppliers and resources that I use often. I highly recommend these sites to help you with your jewelry making. Recommended suppliers for instructional lessons, tools, materials, and accessories:  Jewelry Making Professor (www.JewelryMakingProfessor.com)
Jewelry Making Professor is one of my websites where we offer video training courses and jewelry kits. As a student of this course, you can get an additional 10% discount on purchases by entering promotion code JMPEC1 when you check out. If you are new to jewelry making and you don’t want to deal with getting materials on your own, you can go to this site to get a variety of starter kits that have exactly what you need to complete the Video E-course lessons: Click Here for Video E-Course Kits

 Artbeads (www.Artbeads.com)
Artbeads is a great source for all your beading materials needs. In my opinion, Artbeads is the best overall beading supply website because: 1) there is no minimum order size which means you can order exactly the number of beads you need which can save you a lot of money, 2) they offer volume discounts, and 3) they offer FREE shipping no matter the size of your order!

 Thunderbird Supply (www.Thunderbirdsupply.com)
Thunderbird Supply has a unique selection of sterling silver parts and their own original parts.

 Rings & Things (www.rings-things.com)
Rings & Things has a great variety of beads and supplies. If you are looking for something that you can’t find at other stores, check Rings & Things and you may find it.

 JewelrySupply.com (www.jewelrysupply.com)
JewelrySupply.com has many supplies and a large variety of Swarovski crystal beads.

 Ecrystal Beads

(www.e-crystalbeads.com)

E-crystal beads is a very good source for high quality Swarovski crystal beads at a very good price. They also offer free shipping from Hong Kong.

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Recommended resources if you plan to start a business selling your jewelry:  MarketingJewelry.com (www.MarketingJewelry.com)
If you have questions about how to sell your jewelry, I have found Dr. David Weiman’s resources to be the best out there. He's the marketing director of Lapidary Journal and Step by Step Beads. And he just wrote a new eBook called “The Jewelry Selling Answer Book: Expert Answers to the Most Popular Questions Jewelry Makers Have About Selling” I highly recommend Dr. Weiman’s resources.

 Ultimate Guide to Your Profitable Jewelry Booth (www.Jewelry-Books.com)
If you want to set up a booth to sell your jewelry at jewelry shows, craft fairs, and festivals, this book is packed with ideas for getting maximum profit out of your efforts. The author, Rena Klingenberg, is an expert at creating and selling jewelry and she will show you hundreds of things you can do that will make a difference in your success. The concepts you will learn in her chapter on how to correctly price your jewelry is worth much more than the price of the book itself!

 Secrets of Handcrafted Jewelry Shopping Service (www.Jewelry-Books.com)
Also by Rena Klingenberg, this book details everything you need to know to start your own profitable jewelry shopping service, selling your handcrafted jewelry. Personal shopping services are a growing trend in all kinds of market niches, including handcrafted jewelry. Typically a personal shopper helps clients determine what they should buy, or finds the perfect gifts for customers to give. There are great opportunities for jewelry artists to sell their work this way, as you'll see in this book.

 Bead Manager Pro, Jewelry Business Software (www.beading-software.com)
This professional Jewelry Software helps you turn your jewelry business from a disorganized bunch of paperwork into a stress free, more profitable jewelry making business.

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