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ISO Stitch Terminology

AMERICAN & EFIRD, INC

Denim Stitch Matrix

Stitch Drawing Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn
Single Needle Lockstitch Bobbin Thread on Bottom

ISO 4915 Number

Common Application

Requirements
- Typical SPI = 8

Stitch Description
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks the same top & bottom.

Twin Needle Lockstitch

- Set Pocket Facing 301 - Set Left Fly - Topstitch Left Fly - Set Back Pockets - Topstitch Side Seams - Finish Band Ends - Hem Bottom 301 = 2 - Zipper Set - Set Watch Pocket - Set Front Pockets - Deco Back Pockets - Set Back Pockets - Topstitch Side Seams

- Typical SPI = 8 - Needle Spacing = 1/4”

Two rows of Stitch formed by two needle threads passing through the material and interlocking with two bobbin threads with the threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks the same top & bottom. Two independent rows of Lockstitch are formed.

Chainstitch

Looper Thread on Bottom

401

- Side or Inseam with busted seam - Specify SPI. construction. Topstitch Inseam (Fake Felled Seam) Zipper Set Hem Watch Pkt & Back Pkts. Riser & Seat Seam Fell Inseam Double Needle Topstitch Attach Waistband

Stitch formed by 1 needle thread passing through the material and interlooped with 1 looper thread and pulled up to the underside of the seam. Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 2 looper threads and pulled up to the underside of the seam forming 2 independent rows of stitch.

Double Needle Chainstitch

401 = 2 -

- Typical SPI = 8 - Needle Spacing = 1/4” or 9/16”

Triple Needle Chainstitch

401 = 3 - Riser Seam

- Seat Seam - Fell Inseam - Triple Needle Topstitch

- Typical SPI = 8 - Needle Spacing = 1/8” or 9/32”

Stitch formed by 3 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 3 looper threads and pulled up to the underside of the seam forming 3 independent rows of stitch.

A top spreader thread is interlaced on the top side of the seam between the two needle threads.Use fusible tape on inside of through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the loop underside of the seam. INC Denim Stitch Matrix Stitch Drawing Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn 2 Needle Bottom Coverstitch Looper Thread on Bottom ISO 4915 Number 406 Common Application .Attaching Pocket Facings . 2 Needle 4 Thread Coverstitch 602 .Make Belt Loops Requirements Stitch Description Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing .1/4" Needle Spacing . 2 Needle Chainstitch with Cover Thread Looper Thread on Bottom 408 .ISO Stitch Terminology AMERICAN & EFIRD.1/4" Needle Spacing Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 2 looper threads with the stitches set on the underside of the seam.Attaching Pocket Facings . Stitch formed with 2 needle threads. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads providing seam coverage on the bottom side only. a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread.1/4" Needle Spacing .

seaming and serging.Serge left fly .SPI.Width Bite (Ex.Serge Panel if busted seam construction is used.Specify . .Inseam Specify: . Combination stitch consisting of a singleSpecify: . . 3/16".: needle chainstitch (401) and a 3 thread Overedge stitch (504) that are formed . however. a 504 stitch.Needle spacing & bite . many manufacturers prefer a 516 stitch.Bag Front Pockets 515 (401+503) .SPI = 8 spi Combination stitch consisting of a singleneedle chainstitch (401) and a 2 thread Overedge stitch (503) that are formed simultaneously. 1/4") thread with the purl on edge of seam FOR SERGING ONLY.Serge Pocket facings Stitch formed with 1 needle thread and 2 .Width Bite (Ex.Specify . 3/16".: . 4 Thread Safetystitch .Sideseam .Ex. 1/4") looper threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the edge of the seam.Sideseam . Requirements Stitch Description Stitch formed by 1 needle thread and 1 looper . INC Denim Stitch Matrix Stitch Drawing Top View 2 Thread Overedge Bottom View ISO 4915 Number 503 Common Application .SPI. 3 Thread Overedge 504 .SPI = 8 spi * Usually preferred over 515 stitch.Serge on right fly .3/16” – 1/4" simultaneously.ISO Stitch Terminology AMERICAN & EFIRD.Ex.Bag Front Pockets 516 (401+504) . 5 Thread Safetystitch .Inseam * Uses less thread than a 516 stitch.Needle spacing & bite .3/16” – 1/4" . For overedge . Consumes less thread than .

Buttonhole Gimp Lockstitch Buttonhole formed with cross-over stitch formed in a zig-zag pattern. Buttonhole 304 .Tack Hip Pockets . several tying stitches are formed to prevent the thread from pulling out of the stitch. .Width of Tack 1/8” to 5/32” . At the end of the cycle.Attach Belt Loops Requirements .Buttonhole Waistband .Common stitches per cycle . INC Denim Stitch Matrix Stitch Drawing Bartack ISO 4915 Number 304 Common Application .Tack Fly .Length of Tack 1/4" to 3/4" .Length of BH .28 Stitch Description Most bartacks are formed with Running stitches that are then covered with cross-over stitches made on cycle machines.ISO Stitch Terminology AMERICAN & EFIRD.BH Pocket Flap .