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chapter

33

Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts
COLLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .707 COLLAR DESIGNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .707 1. Shirt Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .707 2. Sailor Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .707 3. Peter Pan Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .707 4. Collar and Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .707 DARTLESS SLEEVE FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .708 Dartless Sleeve Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .708 SLEEVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .709 1. Puff Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .709 2. Leg-o-Mutton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .709 3. Petal Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .709 4. Bell Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .709 SLEEVE DESIGN VARIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .710 Cap Sleeve—Design 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .710 Ruffled Sleeve—Design 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711 Saucer Sleeve—Design 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711 Baby Puff Sleeve—Design 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711 Drawstring Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .712 SKIRTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .713 1. Tiered Skirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .713 2. Cascades/Partial Circles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .713 3. Gore Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .713 4. Pleated Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .713 5. Full Circle Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .713 Flared Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .714 Gathered Skirt with Stylized Waist Band . . . . .715 Yoked Circular Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .716

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Sailor Collar COLLAR DESIGNS Collars that are shown follow the same draft instructions given for adult collars. AND SKIRTS 707 COLLARS The theory. SLEEVES. Shirt collar—page 181 Sailor collar—page 188 Peter Pan collar—pages 186–187 Collar and stand—page 194 Other collar designs follow. 3. terminology. Shirt Collar 4. and other design variations for collar development are found in Chapter 10. 4. 1. Peter Pan Collar . 2. Tab these page numbers for future use: 1.COLLARS. 2. Collar and Stand 3.

Use the full dartless sleeve for sleeve designs that vary on each side of the grainline and the half sleeve for designs that are the same on the back and front sleeve except for the curve of the front capline. Biceps BASIC SLEEVE Elbow Dartless Sleeve Draft Figure 1 • Trace the basic sleeve (broken lines). • Divide the sleeve into four equal parts and draw lines through the pattern. include lines (1 and 2). Two types of dartless sleeve foundation are illustrated: the full sleeve and the half sleeve. • Cut the sleeve from paper. • Divide the cap into four equal parts. Suggestion: Mark sleeve lengths for quick reference. • Square a line from the grainline to front hemline and continue line across the pattern (broken lines indicate the original hemline). The dartless sleeve can be used as a base for sleeves not requiring an elbow dart. Figure 2 Figure 3 1 2 3 4 Front armhole 1 Short sleeve 2 Biceps Wrist Figure 3 Half Sleeve • Trace the back sleeve to the grainline.) Figure 2 • Measure and mark one-half of entry measurement out from each side of the grainline and draw lines to biceps for reference. • Place the front sleeve on top of the back sleeve and trace curve of the sleeve (gray area separates front from back sleeve). 1 2 3 4 Elbow 3/4 length Entry measurement Half of entry measurement . (The elbow dart is eliminated. • Square lines down from biceps.708 Chapter 33 Figure 1 DARTLESS SLEEVE FOUNDATION The dartless sleeve is developed from the basic sleeve. • Mark for entry.

AND SKIRTS 709 SLEEVES Sleeves that are shown follow the same instructions given for adult sleeves of the same designs.COLLARS. The following page numbers for each sleeve should be tabbed for quick reference: 1. Puff Sleeve Other sleeve designs follow. 2. 3. SLEEVES. Petal Sleeve 4. 4. Bell Sleeve . Puff sleeves—pages 311–312 Leg-o-mutton sleeves—page 324 Petal sleeves—pages 315–316 Bell sleeves—page 314 1. Leg-o-Mutton 3. 2.

Designs 1 2 3 4 5 Cap Sleeve—Design 1 The sleeve cap fits closer around the upper arm area than does the basic sleeve. as shown. • Cut and trim where shown. slash. secure and trace the sleeve. • Overlap slash line. • Mark the slash line. Figure 2 Paper Center 1/2 " 1/2 " to 1" Slash line Trim Overlap 1/4 " Blend . with Design 5 presented as a thought problem. and place on fold of paper. Figure 1 Figure 2 • Cut the pattern from paper.710 Chapter 33 SLEEVE DESIGN VARIATIONS The first four sleeve designs are illustrated. Blend lapped area. Figure 1 • Trace the upper part of the dartless sleeve. • Draw the curved hemline.

• Place a push pin at notch and pivot the pattern downward. The sleeve is for sizes 3 to 5. Figure 2 3/4 " 1/2 " 1/2 " 1 1/2 " Fold line Cap height: minus 1 1/2 " Fullness: 2 or 3 to 1 Baby Puff Sleeve—Design 4 The baby puff is specially drafted for controlled fullness that will not overwhelm the garment to which it is attached. if desired. Figure 3 Paper • Shift sleeve along the biceps line equal to biceps width for fullness. Figure 1 Stitch to armhole Gathers notch to notch Paper Saucer Sleeve—Design 3 The sleeve juts directly out from the armhole and can be varied for different effects. AND SKIRTS 711 Ruffled Sleeve—Design 2 The ruffled sleeve is stitched to the armhole. notch to notch.) • Remove sleeve and draw the curved capline and hemline of the sleeve. • Cut from paper.COLLARS. mark the center.1 1/2 " SLEEVE (when pivoted) A Biceps 1" B 1 " to 1 1/2 " D . measure the front and back bodice armhole from notch to notch and add two times the measurement. • Complete the pattern for a test fit. measure out from the center to the amount of fullness desired. (Uneven broken line is the position of the sleeve when pivoted. and square a line up 1 1/2 inches less than the cap height. • Draw a square line across biceps. • Complete the pattern for a test fit. • Trace the sleeve curve to 1 inch down from the underseam. SLEEVES. The sleeve can be stitched past the armhole notches. • Draw a curved line to the marks on each side of center. 1 inch below the square line. To determine fullness. Figure 2 • Trace the sleeve cap and follow the illustration as a guide for plotting the pattern. Figure 1 • Fold the paper. Figure 3 • Trace the sleeve cap on fold of the paper (broken lines). • On the fold. C 1 ". as illustrated. The sleeve should be self-faced. with interconstruction to hold its shape.

• Complete the pattern and test fit. • Trace two copies of the sleeve and trim the curve of the front sleeve.712 Chapter 33 Drawstring Sleeve The sleeve with a pull-up tie is based on the basic. • Plot the sleeve design lines. Stitch A–B together. is removed from the sleeve. Figure 1 • Trace half sleeve 1 inch below biceps. B. Note the locations of the letters and their relationship to the plotted pattern (Figure 1). Figure 3 A 1/2 " to 3/4 " B C Cut 2 Trim front sleeve C Casing to pull through spaghetti tie . as illustrated. The slight curve between points B and C allows the arm to show through. The letters A. B is one-half of A–C. less 1/4 inch. C is marked at biceps level. Figure 1 Trim cap ease A B C 1" X Figure 2 • Draw a square line and spread the slashed lines to fit the square line. and C indicate their locations on the pattern. Mark and cut slash lines. or the dartless sleeve pattern. Figure 2 A B Figure 3 • Add seam allowances. Trim sleeve from X to C. Label X. Label cap A. Cap ease.

Other Skirt Designs: 1. AND SKIRTS 713 SKIRTS For skirt terminology.COLLARS. For waist band and zipper. Full Circle Skirt 3. Tiered skirts—pages 271–273 Cascades and partial circles—pages 295–296 Gored skirt—pages 249–260 Pleated skirt—page 279 Full circle skirt—pages 290–291 1. 2. However. Gore Skirt 4. see Chapter 13. Tiered Skirts 2. 5. belt construction. Cascades/Partial Circles 5. Pleated Skirt . SLEEVES. and other skirt designs. 3. See pages 755 and 756 for guidance. Skirts for sizes 3 to 6X may be belted without elastic. waist bands generally have elastic inserted either across the back section or completely around the waist band. see Chapter 13. 4.

either as a gored skirt with center front and center back seams or as a basic flare. • Complete patterns for a test fit. Design 2 is a basic flared skirt (like Design 1 but without a center seam). Cut on fold. see pages 595 and 598. with at least 1 1/4 inches added to the side seam for an A-line silhouette. • For waist band and zipper construction.714 Chapter 33 Design 1 Design 2 Design 3 Flared Skirt Design Analysis: Designs 1 and 2 Design 1 is a flared gored skirt. transferring excess to the hemline sweep. Flared Skirt Draft—Design 1 Figures 1 and 2 • Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the waist darts closed. Designs are appropriate for sizes 7 to 14. Design 3 is a gathered skirt with a stylized waist band. Figure 1 Figure 2 FRONT BACK .

AND SKIRTS 715 Gathered Skirt with Stylized Waist Band Design Analysis: Design 3 Waist bands that are designed below the waistline of the figure must take the design shape from the skirt before the pattern is manipulated. • Repeat the process for the back skirt. . Figure 2 Paper Fold line Skirt section Figure 3 Paper Center front Cut on fold Figure 3 • Slash and spread to the desired amount of fullness.COLLARS. • Complete the pattern for a test fit. trace waist band and trace a copy of the skirt curve section to the band. Skirt Draft Figure 1 • Plot the styleline on the basic pattern and cut from paper. SLEEVES. The fullness of the skirt is equal at the waist and hem (dirndle). Figure 1 Figure 2 • On fold of the paper. without the curved line of the front pattern. Follow the centers of the spread sections when drawing the waistline of the skirt.

Yoked Skirt Draft Figure 1 • Trace the basic skirt front. • Repeat for the back skirt. as illustrated. Add to the side seam. Figure 1 Repeat for back skirt Length Figure 3 • Cut slash lines. leaving the back dart excess to be gathered into the band.) Figure 2 Close dart Repeat for back YOKE One-half the distance to side seam . see pages 595 and 598.716 Chapter 33 Yoked Circular Skirt The skirt is designed for sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14. design. Design Analysis The yoked skirt is designed and separated from the skirt draft before the lower skirt section is manipulated. and height of the model as a guide. (Do not close the dart if elastic is used in the waist band. For waist band and zipper construction. Elastic can be inserted into the waist band. closing the waist dart. size. using the illustration. Figure 3 Paper Figure 2 • Cut yoke from the pattern and trace on fold of the paper. • Complete the patterns for a test fit. and spread for hemline sweep. • Plot the pattern. Skirt can be any length desired. place the skirt on fold of the paper.