Keynote address In "Beautake" A Symposia on cosmetology Dated 29-07-2005 Dr. K. Shiva Rama Prasad M.D. (AYU), C.O.P (GERMAN), M.A.,Ph.D.


Miraculous creation has two genders viz. Male and female. In many species the male is attractive and extraordinarily human species with female beauty. Almost all the species spend their time in search of food and the rest of the time to attract others either for company or mating. The attraction is possible with specificity, to create the gender specificity, the tool is "Beauty". The consciousness of beauty is not of latest, its embedded in the gene of the race. What is beauty? Probably no one answer this question. The beauty is of inner consciousness attributed to that of outer appearance. To augment it we take the help of cosmetics. The usage of cosmetics is from ages. From Stone-ages people used to have stone bead and feathers either for beauty or for identification. Today cosmetics are in day to day use and pierced in to the common mans attractive attitudes. Human much times show exhibitionism. The exhibitionism is of many kinds. 1) Public exhibitionism, 2) semi exhibitionism and 3) private exhibitionism Out of the above Public exhibitionism relates with the exposed parts of the body and their beauty to exhibit. Much times the face, legs, hands and hair are such areas and are common susceptible for the cosmetic problems. • • • • • • • • Septoplasty - nasal septum repair - is surgery to repair or reshape the nose Rhinoplasty - Nose surgery - Changing the appearance of your nose (many film Stars underwent) Smooth moves: Medical treatments for facial wrinkles Blepharoplasty: Repair of droopy eyelids Liposuction: Considerations about body sculpting Laser resurfacing: Treatment for younger looking skin Saving face: The nips and tucks of face-lifts Laser hair removal: Zapping unwanted hair The second category of the semi exhibitionism is not exception for any gender. All over the globe many are undergoing cosmetic surgery for semi exhibiting parts of the body such as breasts and buttocks.

The Mastopexy; Mammoplasty; Breast size reduction; Breast lift; Breast lift with reduction; Breast lift with augmentation, etc. Ease your back, neck and shoulder pain and restore self-esteem in the same way many males are in line to undergo the buttocks surgery along with ladies, stating it increases their image. The third category private exhibitionism is with spouse or partners of sex. The penile implantation and vaginal surgery are of such categories. Ayurveda also offered from good olden days such treatments through cosmeceuticals. The best examples are applications to penis to increase its size, breast enlargement creams and vaginal constrictive applications. Cosmetic breast surgery is a surgical procedure to alter or revise the size or shape of the breasts. Another theory of "pheromones" (substance secreted and released by an animal for detection and response by another usu. of the same species. [Greek phero convey, *hormone) which makes gender attraction is natural. But when a person (male or female) wish to attract another use different perfumes and fragrances to invite like-minded. Present society, where dating becomes common use such fragrance materials, which are used by courtesans in ancient ages (described in Ayurveda & Kamasutra, Anangaranga, etc. The natural flavours of the human represents their mental and physical health. Present day terminology of cosmetics relays the meanings of as - Cosmetics are put on the body to: • Cleanse body • Make body beautiful • Make body attractive • Change body appearance or the way body looks Cosmetic products include: • skin creams • lotions • perfumes • lipsticks • fingernail polishes • eye and face make-up products • hair dyes • toothpaste's • deodorants, etc Unlike drugs, which are used to treat or prevent disease in the body, cosmetics do not change or affect the body’s structure or functions. At most times we are at the use of cosmeceuticals.

What are “cosmeceuticals?” (FDA does not recognize this term) Some products can be both cosmetics and drugs. This may happen when a product has two uses. For example, a shampoo is a cosmetic because it’s used to clean the hair. But, an anti-dandruff treatment is a drug because it’s used to treat dandruff. So an antidandruff shampoo is both a cosmetic and a drug. Some examples of cosmeceuticals are: • Toothpaste's that contain fluoride • Deodorants that are also antiperspirants • Moisturisers and make-up that provide sun protection These products must meet the standards for both cosmetics (color additives) and drugs. Some cosmetic makers use the term “cosmeceutical” to refer to products that have drug-like benefits. A product can be a drug, a cosmetic, or a combination of both. But the term "cosmeceutical" has no meaning under the law. While drugs are reviewed and approved by FDA, FDA does not approve cosmetics. Cosmetics applied to the skin, although more rarely a cause of dermatitis in technically advanced countries where the industry has worked hard to eliminate allergens, are still a source of much disease in developing countries. Perfumes and preparations containing tars, formaldehyde, and Dowicil are increasingly incriminated, and are as common irritants as they are allergic. What’s in cosmetics? Fragrances and preservatives are the main ingredients in cosmetics. Fragrances are the most common cause of skin problems. More than 5,000 different kinds are used in products. Products marked “fragrance-free” or “without perfume” means that no fragrances have been added to make the product smell good. Preservatives in cosmetics are the second most common cause of skin problems. They prevent bacteria and fungus from growing in the product and protect products from damage caused by air or light. But preservatives can also cause the skin to become irritated and infected. Some examples of preservatives are: • paraben • imidazolidinyl urea • Quaternium-15 • DMDM hydantoin • phenoxyethanol • formaldehyde The ingredients below cannot be used, or their use is limited, in cosmetics. They may cause cancer or other serious health problems.

• bithionol • mercury compounds • vinyl chloride • halogenated salicyanilides • zirconium complexes in aerosol sprays • chloroform • methylene chloride • chlorofluorocarbon propellants • hexachlorophene Many questions ringer our brain, such as which soap is good for my skin which perfume is attractive What are hypoallergenic cosmetics? Which company beauty kit is good Can Mascara give problem to my eyes Will cosmetics cause acne? Are tattoos and permanent make-up safe? Are cosmetic products with alpha hydroxy acids safe? Are hair dyes safe? What precautions should I take when I dye my hair? Are lead acetates safe in hair dyes? Is it safe to dye my hair when I’m pregnant? May be many questions are not answerable. But still we try to have better solutions always all times depending upon surveys and authentic laboratory investigations. A survey of Phthalates on Beauty Products made people astonished. A major national laboratory to test 72 name brand, off-the-shelf beauty products for the presence of phthalates, a large family of industrial chemicals linked to permanent birth defects in the male reproductive system. In September 2000, researchers at the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) reported that they found seven phthalates in the bodies of 289 persons tested, and that every person tested had a particular phthalate called dibutyl phthalate, or DBP, in their body. But the biggest surprise came when the researchers broke the data down by age and gender for the phthalate called DBP. They discovered that the most critical population, women of childbearing age, whose foetuses are exposed to DBP in the womb, appears to receive the highest exposures. Scientists found that DBP exposures for more than two million women of childbearing age may be up to 20 times greater than for the average

person in the population. 71 percent (51 products) of Diethyl phthalate (DEP) found in Deodorant, fragrance, hair gel, hair mousse, hair spray, hand and body lotions, nail polish, etc. Phthalates are dangerous - More than two decades ago, scientists began building bodies of work indicating that phthalates like DEHP and DBP can be powerful reproductive and developmental toxicants in laboratory animals, particularly for males. Early studies focused on phthalates’ ability to cause testicular atrophy. But phthalates are now known to cause a broad range of birth defects and lifelong reproductive impairment, which are in cosmetics, drugs, and food packaging. Despite mounting evidence showing that some people are exposed to potentially dangerous levels of phthalates animals exposed in-utero and shortly after birth. Scientists have shown that phthalates can damage the female reproductive system, but it is the male reproductive system that appears to be more sensitive. Phthalate exposures damage the testes, prostate gland, epididymis, penis, and seminal vesicles in laboratory animals. Most of these effects (animal study) persist throughout the life, and include, specifically: Testicular atrophy — a defect that leads to reduced capacity to form sperm and male sex hormones; Hypospadias — a defect of the penis in which the opening occurs on the bottom of the penis instead of the tip; Undescended testicles — a condition in which the testes fail to descend into the scrotal sac during pregnancy; Ectopic testes — a condition in which testes are grown outside the scrotal sac; Absent testes — testes are not formed at all; Absent prostate gland — the prostate gland contributes liquid secretions to semen; Absent or small seminal vesicles — these structures, like the prostate gland, contribute liquid secretions to semen; Reduced sperm count — leads to reduced fertility; Malformed or absent epididymis — the epididymis is the structure where sperm mature and are stored. Underarm antiperspirants or deodorants cause breast cancer Trends in human male reproductive health include many of the same effects seen in Lab animals dosed with phthalates. Although a cause and effect relationship has not been established, the ubiquity of phthalates in the human population Articles in the press and on the Internet have warned that underarm antiperspirants or deodorants cause breast cancer.

The reports have suggested that these products contain harmful substances, which can be absorbed through the skin or enter the body through nicks caused by shaving. Some scientists have also proposed that certain ingredients in underarm antiperspirants or deodorants may be related to breast cancer because they are applied frequently to an area next to the breast. However, researchers at the National Cancer Institute (NCI) are not aware of any conclusive evidence linking the use of underarm antiperspirants or deodorants and the subsequent development of breast cancer. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration, which regulates food, cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, also does not have any evidence or research data that ingredients in underarm antiperspirants or deodorants cause cancer. Fragrance, Parabens and Allergic reactions Fragrance is found in a wide variety of cosmetic products. It is responsible for a relatively large number of allergic reactions to cosmetics. Parabens are the most common preservatives in skin care products and cosmetics. A person who has an allergic reaction to parabens may still be able to use parabencontaining products if they are only applied to undamaged skin. That is, almost all paraben allergic reactions occur on inflamed or cracked skin; this has been termed the paraben paradox Thimerosol is primarily in liquid products for use in the eyes, nose, and ears. In cosmetics, it is mostly used in mascaras. It is also found in vaccines, eye drops, contact lens products, nose sprays, nose drops, and ear-drops. Colophony or rosin is distilled oil of turpentine. It is used in some cosmetics, adhesives (commonly in shoe adhesives), tape, flypaper, epilating wax, rosin bags, furniture polish, price labels, varnish, glue, ink, recycled paper, and car or floor waxes. Colophony cross-reacts with abietic acid, abitol, and hydrobietic acid, which are also used in cosmetic products. THIGH CREAMS Various products have been promoted in the skin care market as thigh and stomach slimmers. Some advertising claims also promise the reduction of "cellulite", waffly looking or orange-peel type skin caused by fatty deposits. Aminophylline, an approved prescription drug used in the treatment of asthma, is an ingredient used in many of these thigh cream products that marketers claim will dissolve the fat and smooth the skin. Since some individuals suffer from allergic reactions to ethylenediamine, a component of aminophylline, the FDA is concerned about the use of this ingredient in cosmetics.

Thigh creams may more appropriately be classified as drugs under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act since removal or reduction of cellulite affects the "structure or function" of the body. Social & behavioral problems: Many sexual paraphelias leads to sexual harassment. Sexual harassment is widely prevalent within academic environments. Yet, many implicit harassing behaviours bear resemblance to instructor immediacy behaviours (i.e., behaviors intended to reduce relational distance). Since females are largely the targets of sexual harassment, it was proposed that they would rate immediacy behaviours to be less appropriate and would experience less comfort with these behaviours than their male counterparts. The role of cosmetics in sexual harassment - a study Study over the effect of cosmetics use on attributions concerning the likelihood of provoking sexual harassment and of being sexually harassed. Subjects were 85 female and 76 male undergraduate volunteers. The study was a 3×2 between-subjects design with three levels of cosmetics use (heavy, moderate, and no cosmetics) and two levels of sex of subject (male, female). Each subject viewed one of three colored photographs of a model wearing either heavy, moderate, or no cosmetics, and then indicated how likely the model was to provoke sexual harassment and to be sexually harassed. Data were analysed using analyses of variance and the Newman-Keuls test. When the model wore heavy cosmetics, she was rated as more likely to provoke sexual harassment than when she wore moderate cosmetics. Similarly, when the model wore moderate cosmetics, she was rated as significantly more likely to provoke sexual harassment than when she was not wearing cosmetics. When the model wore either heavy or moderate cosmetics, she was also rated as more likely to be sexually harassed than when she did not wear cosmetics. In addition, male subjects rated the model as more likely to provoke and to be sexually harassed than did female subjects. Results are discussed in terms of sex role spillover. This study was part of a larger research project concerned with cosmetics and social interaction. For another part of the study, see Workman and Johnson (in press). Sunscreen agents Carcinogenicity & Mutagenicity: There are no reports of carcinogenic or mutagenic potential for other sunscreen agents. Artificial Nail Removers Artificial Nail Removers contains Acetonitrile. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. Avoid prolonged breathing of vapours. Keep away from open flame. If swallowed, call poison control center or emergency room immediately. For skin and eye contact, flush area

thoroughly with water and seek medical attention. Keep out of the reach of children." Artificial Nail Removers are dyed multicoloured and smells like grapes further inviting childhood misuse. Artificial Nail Removers are - MAY BE FATAL IF SWALLOWED. Artificial Nail Removers are - FLAMMABLE Artificial Nail Removers are - IRRITATING TO SKIN AND EYES TATTOOS and PERMANENT MAKEUP The inks used in tattoos and permanent makeup (also known as micro-pigmentation) and the pigments in these inks are subject to FDA regulation as cosmetics and color additives. However, FDA has not attempted to regulate the use of tattoo inks and the pigment used in them and does not control the actual practice of tattooing. Rather, such matters have been handled through local laws and by local jurisdictions. What Risks Are Involved in Tattooing? The following are the primary complications that can result from tattooing: Infection. Removal problems. Allergic reactions. Granulomas.. Keloid formation. MRI complications Dissatisfaction Over-the-counter wrinkle creams: Miracle or marketing myth? Vitamin A • Claim: Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and is the first antioxidant to be widely used in OTC wrinkle creams - Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals — unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles - Works deep below the skin's surface to smooth wrinkles. • The fact: Retinol concentration varies from product to product, and the FDA warns that some OTC preparations may contain almost no retinol. Avoid Vitamin A derivatives if you're pregnant or may become pregnant because they increase the risk of birth defects. Hydroxy acids • Claim. Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids are all synthetic versions of acids derived from sugar-containing fruits. These acids are exfoliants, substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate

the growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin.- Improve the look of deeper lines and wrinkles while increasing skin hydration. • The facts. Hydroxy acids stimulate production of collagen, a protein that thickens skin and prevents water loss. Use of these acids may lead to modest improvements in fine lines and wrinkles. Side effects may include burning, itching, pain and possible scarring. Since hydroxy acids increase your susceptibility to sun damage, apply sun protection during use and for at least one week afterward. Risk-benefit should be considered when the following medical problems exist Photodermatoses, such as Dermatitis, atopic, or chronic actinic, or seborrheic or Herpes labialis or Lichen rubeo planus or Lupus erythematosus or Persistent light reaction or Photosensitivity, idiopathic, or musk ambrette or Phytophotodermatitis or Polymorphous light eruption or Xeroderma pigmentosum. Many cosmetic treatments are the result of common disease therapies whose unexpected side effects were pleasant surprises. Vaniqa (eflornithine hydrochloride), the first prescription drug for removing unwanted hair, is a topically applied version of a drug that was originally developed to treat African sleeping sickness. Similarly, minoxidil originally had been prescribed as an oral tablet to treat high blood pressure. As a result of side effects that included hair growth and reversal of male baldness, Rogaine (2 percent minoxidil) was the first drug approved by the FDA for the treatment of hair loss (androgenetic alopecia). Before electing to have a cosmetic procedure • • • • • Discuss it with a physician who can refer you to a specialist in the fields of dermatology and aesthetic plastic surgery. Begin with a consultation to find the right doctor, and select one who is qualified to do the procedure you want. Make sure the doctor you choose is certified by an appropriate medical board. Have realistic expectations about the benefits you want to achieve. Compare fees--insurance does not usually cover elective procedures.

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