european vibe

ev
No. 34 sep ’09

The esseNTIAL MADRID LIfesTyLe mAgAzINe

rsary nnive a e

3rdr

bumpon editi

The magazine for new arrivals
Arrivals llegadas
plus

GReen DAy Anni B Sweet spoRts teAMs AnD clubs In MADRID tripS you cAn’t miSS out on the MADRID heptAthlon vAlencIA phonInG hoMe whAt the olympicS meAn to mAdrid AnD lots MoRe!

OktOberfest

European Vibe Entertainment Fernando el Católico 63, local 1 28015 Madrid enquiRies Tel: 91 549 7711 Fax: 91 549 7711 Email: info@europeanvibe.com editoR Luc Ciotkowski editor@europeanvibe.com Lingo staR editoR Susana López lingostar@europeanvibe.com aRt editoR Philip McIvor hpmcivor@mac.com Media & design Ferdi Loskamp ferdi@europeanvibe.com adveRtising José María González Alonso (91 549 7711)sales@europeanvibe.com adMinistRatoR Tomek Przybyszewski tomek@europeanvibe.com senioR pR & pRoMotions Mitchell Vine promotions@europeanvibe.com MaRketing diRectoR Brian Tippin MaRketing John Folorunso Managing diRectoR Scott Edwards scott@europeanvibe.com EvEnt CooRdinatoR Sam Lee sam@europeanvibe.com Logistics & distRibution Rossen Angelov distribution@europeanvibe.com SUB-EDItoR Matt Johnson Magazine and bLog wRiteRs Peter Moore, Linn Treijs, Ryan Craggs, Martin Quinn, Helen Macrae, Vanessa Harris, Matt Johnson, Andy Ojelade, Hayleigh Stewart, Ruth Kenny, Alexandra Atiya & Laura Ramos caRtoon Joe Hodgson inteRns Isaure Cointreau, Jeanne Reidy, Stuart Yochem, Kameryn Westling, Mary Doman & Jasmine Roberts

contents

edITorIAL

24

Start the dance
¡Bienvenidos! Welcome! And to our cover boys, Kaká and Cristiano Ronaldo, Bem-vindos, rapazes! Whether you’re new to or just getting back into the swing of the capital, you’ll be facing all Madrid can throw at you as it accelerates out of summer. And that’s where we come in – to help you get the most out of the experience. One of the more curious things you’ll come across, along with useless can-openers, old people who don’t like to queue and the unique Spanish talent for standing in your way, is what I call the ‘madrileño dance’. The ‘madrileño dance’ happens for the first three minutes after buying a copa. Alcoholic spirits are served in generous free-poured measures in tubular glasses, appropriately named ‘tubos’, filled with ice and accompanied by mixers in small glass bottles. Everything is perfect, except for the small catch that it’s not possible to fit the contents of your mixer bottle in your glass of liquor and ice. The ensuing three minutes after receiving your drink in a busy central Madrid bar consist of sipping barely diluted whisky, rum, gin or vodka, wincing, pouring some more coca cola or lemon into the glass and repeating from step one until the bottle is empty. Spilling drink over you as people lurch past you is par for the course at first, but soon you will have the dance down to a tee and be able to avoid spillage, have a conversation and, if you’re really good, smoke a cigarette at the same time. Only the true professional will learn to do the ‘dance’, have a conversation, smoke a cigarette and send a text message at the same time. For the rest of us, the most we can aspire to is the sip-wince-pour routine without ending up wearing our drink on our top. You’ll soon get the hang of it and you’ll find it’s as important a part of the night as the real dancing. Discover it all, enjoy EV and enjoy Madrid! ¡Salud! Luc

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04 bITS & PIeCeS & Web 06 WHAT’S ON - SueñOS De bOLLYWOOD, ALexANDeR CALDeR, DAVID MALJKOVIC + LuLu 07 WHAT’S ON - LA LIGA, SMACK DOWN LIVe & SuRFORAMA 08 VIbeS - ANNI b SWeeT + DJ COSY O 09 WHAT’S ON - CALeNDAR, LeONARD COHeN + OFFICIAL SeCReTS ACT 10 VIbeS – GReeN DAY 11 VALeNCIA 12 PARTY & TRAVeL PHOTOS 14 TRAVeL – TRIPS YOu CAN’T MISS OuT ON 16 TRAVeL euROPe - OKTObeRFeST 18 LINGO STAR - GuIDe TO buYING A PHONe IN SPAIN 20 MAP IT OuT & MY MeTRO 22 FILM FIRST - INGLOuRIOuS bASTeRDS + JuLIe & JuLIA 23 NeW MOVIe ReLeASeS 24 SPORT – RONALDO + KAKá 26 SPORT – MADRID LIONS + SPORTS TeAMS AND CLubS IN MADRID 28 CuLTuRe – WHAT THe OLYMPICS WOuLD MeAN FOR MADRID 29 bOOKS - THRILLeR? 30 LINGO STAR INTeRMeDIATe + ADVANCeD 31 DISCOVeR MADRID – HINDSIGHT IN ADVANCe 32 eAT OuT GuIDe 34 DISCOVeR MADRID – THe MADRID HePTATHLON 37 SeRVICeS

RepRo/pRinteR Artes Gráficas Hono SL September 2009 Depósito legal: M-59116-2006

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bully?

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you could win 2 passes for a bathing session and massage courtesy of Medina Mayrit. Last month’s winner was Diana Giménez. Diana won a British food hamper worth 50€ from The Food Hall. Bully was hiding in the Red Kampus advert on page 5. Get searching!
sepTember ’09
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whAT’s oN?

mAdrId AgeNdA compILed IN coLLAborATIoN wITh esmAdrId

Sueños de Bollywood

musical

Ends: 13 September Venue: Teatro Gran Via Pequeño

Alexander Calder

Venue: Museo de Arte Reina Sofia
For those of you who've yet to venture Madrid’s home of modern art, the Reina Sofía, and even for those of you who've been time and time again, you may want direct your focus to the Alexander Calder collection. Calder, a beloved American sculptor and artist, made a name for himself with his lithograph, toy, tapestry, and mobile creations. The innovator, born in 1898, decided at age 24 to push his luck and become an artist. His first assignment? To sketch the Ringling Brothers and Barnum and Bailey Circus for the National Police Gazette. With time, Calder became tremendously fascinated with the circus and it led him to one of his most enchanting and still discussed works: the Cirque Calder. This invention was a miniature circus made of wire, string, rubber, cloth and other assorted objects. The circus was portable and allowed Calder to hold performances across the United States from 1926 on. Calder went on to befriend other famous artists such as Juan Mirò and Marcel Duchamp, before coming to embrace abstract art. He created the highly discussed mobile, a kinetic sculpture that derived its motion from air currents. Calder’s legend lives on in the Reina Sofia, where his many creations will both wow and perplex you. This may be the perfect solution to fill your next day off. sTuArT yochem

on stage
Carmen The ballet Flamenco de Madrid 2 presents an adaptation of bizet’s opera, with choreography by Sara Lezana and 20 artists on stage. A story of love and broken hearts, jealousy, passion and death. Ending: 15 September 2009 Venue: Teatro Reina Victoria Price: 25 € Metro: Sevilla

exhibition
Sueños de Bollywood comes to Madrid again this summer on June 11 to surprise Spanish audiences with the Indian dance that’s been topping off Bollywood movies for years. However, the show isn’t just about Indian dance; Sueños de Bollywood contains bits of traditional Bhangra, hip hop, funk, and, of course, flamenco dance all on one stage. The show is choreographed by Mistri, a former singer and performer from the UK. Misti has only recently made her stay in Madrid permanent after she discovered the madrileños’ enthusiasm for Bollywood dance. “It worked, people loved it, and I had a lot of fun,” she said about moving to Madrid and teaching Indian dance to madrileños. Years later, Misti has acquired a team of Spanish dancers to help put on the successful Sueños de Bollywood. It tells the story of a girl seeking the passionate, perfect love that Bollywood movies typically end with. In two parts (the first focusing on soul, the second on the body), the story evolves through classic Indian dance to modern Bollywood dance, with an equal amount of variety in music, scenery, and costume. Even though the stage revolves around love and passion, you won’t see any kissing on stage (as innovative as Misti may be, she holds true to this one Bollywood rule!). However, Misti still promises that Sueños de Bollywood will still be a, “Night of pure passion, vibrancy, rhythm, and exoticism.” Like any Bollywood movie, you can expect a happy ending after this performance. mAry domAN

musicals
Saturday night Fever The musical based on the film which brought fame to John Travolta in the role of Tony Manero. When: 6 September 2009 Venue: Teatro Coliseum Price: from 19,90 € Metro: Plaza de españa

opera
LuLu
Dates: from 28 September until 16 October Venue: Teatro Real

exhibitions
matiSSe: 1917-1941 The exhibition focuses on the work of Matisse between 1917 and 1941, two important dates which mark the start and finish of the central period of his career. During this time the artist developed his most individual and distinctive style, focusing on the relationship between line, colour, volume and space. Ending: 20 September 2009 Venue: Museo Thyssen-bornemisza Price: 5 € Metro: banco de españa Sorolla and hiS idea oF Spain The great Joaquín Sorolla devoted 7 years of his life to preparing the 14 panels commissioned by Archer Milton Huntington, the founder of the Hispanic Society of America, in 1911 to decorate the institution’s library. Ending: 13 September 2009 Venue: Museo Sorolla Price: Free entrance Metro: Atocha / Atocha Renfe leaving rodin behind The exhibition, organized in collaboration with Paris’ Musée d’Orsay, is devoted to a generation of artists who tried to break free from the influence of Rodin, one of the most prominent sculptors in the history of art. The exhibit includes 130 works completed between 1905 and 1914 by such artists as Gargallo, bourdelle, Maillol and brancusi. Ending: 13 September 2009 Venue: Fundación MAPFRe Recoletos Price: Free entrance Metro: Colón / banco de españa literary madrid Writer José Manuel Caballero bonald and photographer José Manuel Navia have joined forces to recall the history and

David Maljkovic

Dates: from 8 September until 9 October Venue: Museo de Arte Reina Sofia
The modern art lover needs to check out the solo exhibition from one of the most important figures on Croatia’s contemporary art scene, David Maljkovic, on display at the Reina Sofia. His work mixes videos, drawings, photographs and objects to focus on the differences between memory and amnesia and the transition from communism to capitalism in recent Croatian history. He emphasizes the contradictions between a promised future and reality resulting in what has been called “a visual discourse on the consequences of failed utopias”.

exhibition

Maljkovic, born in Rijeka in 1973, was recently awarded the sixth ARCO Award to Young Artists. His educational background includes schools in Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin, Munich and Stockholm. He has participated in group shows throughout his career including When Things Cast No Shadow, the Fifth Berlin Biennial for Contemporary Art and Eyes Wide Open. His solo exhibitions include Retired Compositions and Metro Pictures which were displayed in New York in the past year. With such a variety of influences and experience, David Maljkovic is bound to satisfy all artistic taste buds. JeANNe reIdy

Alban Berg is an Austrian composer known for the modernity of his work. His last opera, LULU, was left unfinished at the time of his death, but the third act still found its ending thanks to Friedrich Cerha. Although these little details don’t really interfere in the enjoyment of this spectacular piece, one has to, however, acknowledge its composition, characterized by its dodecaphonic structure. Don’t be put off by this alien term, it only points out how the music is composed so as to appreciate all 12 notes successively through regular intervals, producing a revolutionary sound. The music reveals a story of suffering, love and death, and although this is a very traditional mixture of theatrical elements, LULU is everything but classical. It is one of a kind. A femme fatale who destroys the men she encounters through the love she inspires, she eventually ends up a murderer. She embodies the destructive power of a passion extreme enough to push someone to kill the one they love the most. This tragic opera resembles the Hitchcockean film noir genre, although fully balanced in music and vocals. A thrilling show that will glue you to your seat to the end, LULU comes to the Teatro Real, with the collaboration of the Royal Opera House of London, from the 28 September until 16 October. For a whole new experience at the opera house, you know where to go. iSAure cointreAu

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whAT’s oN?

most emblematic literary spots of 16th- to 20th- century Madrid. Ending: 20 September 2009 Venue: museo de la Ciudad Price: Free entrance Metro: Cruz del Rayo the worldS oF iSlam in the ColleCtion oF the aga khan muSeum The Aga Khan collection boasts priceless pieces from practically all the historic dynasties of the Muslim world. The exhibition comprises 180 artefacts –made of wood, parchment, ivory etc.– which cover around 1,400 years of history and offer a summary of their best artistic pieces. Ending: 6 September 2009 Venue: CaixaForum Price: Free entrance Metro: Atocha madrid’S eSquizoS. Figuration in madrid baCk in the 70’S Museo Reina Sofía hosts a retrospective on the group of creators that gave way to the figuration movement in Madrid back in the seventies, claiming a new way to make art, outside those trends that succeeded in europe back then. This group of artists liked english pop, modern music, the Kitsch style and neomodernism. Ending: 14 September 2009 Venue: Reina Sofía Price: 20 € Free entrance on Sat noon & Sun Metro: Atocha

sport
real madrid estadio Santiago bernabéu. Avenida de Concha espina, 1. Tel: 91 398 43 00 www.realmadrid.com 30 August Real Madrid v Deportivo 20 September Real Madrid v Xerez 27 September Real Madrid v Tenerife atlétiCo de madrid estadio Vicente Calderón. Paseo Virgen del Puerto, 67. Metro: Pirámides. Tel: 91 366 47 07 www.clubatleticodemadrid.com 13 September Atlético v Racing 23 September Atlético v Almeria Cb eStudianteS baSketball Madrid Arena, Serrano 127, 28006 Madrid Tel: 902 400 002 www.clubestudiantes.com real madrid Cb Pabellon Raimundo Saporta, Paseo de La Castellana, Madrid. Tel: 91 398 43 32, or check out www.realmadridbasket.galeon.com tour oF the bernabéu Discover every nook and cranny of the home to the greatest football team of the 20th century, Real Madrid F.C. It opens its doors to its fans on a daily basis. The Tour of the bernabeu tells the history of the century football club, and allows visitors to be level with the playing field as well as to enjoy all the many angles that are offered from just as many seats, including those of the players themselves. Venue: estadio Santiago bernabéu. Avenida de Concha espina, 1. Price: Adults, 15 € and under 14 years old, 10 €. Metro: Santiago bernabéu Ticket points of sale: Window 10 (Gate 7), on Paseo de la Castellana. Tour access located at Gate 20 (Avda. Concha espina) Tel: 902 31 1709 www.realmadrid.com

La Liga

Starts: 30 August

WWE Smackdown
Ends: 24 September Venue: Palacio De Deportes
If there’s one American classic that Madrid needs to see, it’s World Wrestling Entertainment (WWE, what you remember from your childhood as WWF). Big muscular men (and women) will take the stage at the Palacio de Deportes to battle each other for various belts, crowns, and the general bragging rights that accompany knocking another person out cold. If you’re not interested in the actual wrestling, there is plenty of scripted drama, fake tans, and cat fights to entertain you! Superstars like World Heavyweight Champion CM Punk, Santino Marella, Mickie James, Kelly Kelly, WWE Champion Kane will take on wrestlers, girlfriends, and referees from all over the Wrestling World in a night that will surely be smashed, pounded, and fakepunched into your memory forever. Will CM Punk hold onto his World Heavyweight Title? Will Rey Misterio take off his mask? Will all the spandex, leather, and fur hold up for the whole show? The only way to find out is to put on your cut-offs and go see for yourself. It’s the passion of flamenco plus the violence of a bullfight, except with blaring music and no real death. Smackdown is surely a one of a kind experience- one that its creators call, “One of the most popular and sophisticated forms of global entertainment today.” It’s good fun, anyway. mAry domAN

sport

sport

Your wait is finally over as La Liga returns. Well, Real Madrid are back with a bang. Their open cheque book in times of trophy droughts policy has really cranked their ability (and wage bill) up. In the wake of Barça’s treble last season and Real’s abysmal recent performances in the Champions’ League, Florentino Pérez’s star-studded spending spree has left the team with some of the best players of this generation. But will it bring success? Maybe. Ronaldo, Kaká, Benzema and Co. are joined by new manager Manuel Pellegrini, who helped transform small town team Villarreal into major Spanish and European contenders. This is probably the smartest signing to date, a manager with respect and the track record to boot. And Real’s victims, Villarreal? They’ve installed Ernesto Valverde as manager, fresh from guiding Greek Gods Olympiakos to a league title. Led by captain and Spanish international Marcos Senna, they’re dark horses with a reputation of doing well in the league/bad in Europe one year then doing the opposite the following year. This year therefore looks like a good league year as they haven’t qualified for the Champions’ League after finishing fifth though they reached the Champions’ League quarter finals. Subsequently they are in the new incarnation of the UEFA Cup, the Europa League. Valencia have been quite successful in recent years but currently have financial problems. Having tried to emulate Florentino Pérez’s success at Madrid with the sale of Real’s Ciudad Deportivo, their stadium sale doesn’t seem as lucrative as originally hoped and construction on the new ground has stopped. Atlético de Madrid have had a resurgence in the last few years, having secured fourth place and a shot at the Champions’ League the last two years running. With last year’s La Liga top scorer Diego Forlán up front and Simão in midfield, things are looking good for Los Indios. Sevilla, another dark horse side, finished third last season and are extremely ambitious to break the Madrid-Barça hegemony. Expect great things nationally and at European level this year from the Andalusians. And the champions, Barça? After the 6-2 spanking they gave Real in the final Clásico last season, then steamrolling three trophies, they’re the ones to watch. Pep Guardiola remains in charge and is most certainly keen to multiply 3 X 2 this year. At the other end of the table, Real Zaragoza have returned from the second-tier wilderness along with Xerez and Tenerife. Zaragoza, traditionally a top-flight team, crashed out of the first division last year but have bounced back, hoping to cement themselves up where they belong. Whatever happens, the good times are back, with excuses for drinks galore along with the baffling Spanish stampede for the pub door at the final whistle. Come on chicos, won’t you stay for the after-match reports? mArTIN QuINN

Surforama Festival

quizzes
anyway pub quiz night- Thursday from 23:00 in Anyway Pub. Viriato, 64. Metro: Iglesia. iriSh rover every monday at 21:00, upstairs in the library. Join us to spark up a brain cell after the weekend. Avenida del brasil, 7. Metro: Santiago bernabeau. mooreS Pub quiz in english every Monday at 21:45 in Moores Irish Pub, Calle barceló. Lots of prizes and great fun. everyone welcome. Metro: Tribunal.

Ends: 25-26 September Venue: Sala Gruta 77/ The Irish Rover

nightLife
wedneSday nightS vibe the party @ orange Café Now legendary international party with hip hop and Rnb music taking place every Wednesday night at Orange Café , Serrano Jover 5, Metro Argüelles. Open bar of beer, sangria and wine and beer pong games from 11:30 pm - 12:30 am for only 5 euros. From 12:30 till close, entrance with 2 drinks included for 10 euros. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com thurSday nightS Fever @ Joy eslava The ultimate Student Party. every Thursday night Madrid’s most famous club becomes a disco sensation with spectacular animation and the best music from the 1970s till present day. Free entrance or 2 drinks for 10 euros from midnight till 1:30 am, or entrance price with 2 drinks for 12 euros from 1:30 am till close. Joy eslava, calle Arenal 11, Metro Sol / Ópera. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com Friday nightS FabulouS @ Joy eslava This is arguably Madrid’s most glamorous club night and is in session every Friday night at the Joy eslava located in the central Puerta del Sol area of the city. burlesque-style animation, exclusive VIP zones and the biggest house and mainstream tunes all night long. Are you fabulous enough to be there? Joy eslava, calle Arenal 11. Metro Sol/ Opera. Get guest list access to this party by signing up at www.europeanvibe.com

fun Activities
parque de atraCCioneS Heart-stopping roller coasters, vertigo inducing rides or the spine-chilling tunnel of terror. Metro: batán. bus lines 33 & 65. Tel: 91 463 2900 e-mail: parque@grpr.com planetario de madrid Avda. del Planetario, 16. Tel: 91 467 34 61 Metro: Méndez álvaro. Closed Mondays warner broS park Open daily from June to Mid-September and on chosen weekends and holidays during the rest of the year. Call to confirm opening times. Take the bus from Legazpi Plaza or the train from Atocha Tel: 902 024 100 www.warnerbrospark.com zoo aquarium From the smallest insect to the largest mammal. Over 6,000 animals from more than 500 different zoological groups. Venue: Casa de Campo, s/n Metro: Casa de Campo. bus lines 33 & 65. Tel: 91 512 3770

festival

As summer has come to a close and you long to return to the beach and bury your feet in the sand, yearn no more. The Surforama music festival, which will bring the sounds of the beach to your very own Madrid, will surely refresh your long-lost summer glee. After spending the last three winters in Valencia, the festival finally made its way to Madrid in the summer of 2008. So for those of you who don’t know much about the wildly popular Surforama, what is it all about? The festival’s slogan is, “Surf, instrumental rock and roll, and lots of fun.” If that isn’t enough to get you to the ticket stand, listen to the incredible line up of bands and performers. The event will feature Slacktone, considered one of the best instrumental bands in the United States, the Rapiers, an English band with a genre of revamped retro music with a daringly original sound, and Madrid’s own Fernando Pardo & ImperialTones, who pay tribute to Dick Dale, the king of surf guitar in the 1960s. The list goes on! Spanish groups The Brillantinas, Los Pataconas, and The Burlons as well as the German band Los Banditos will be taking the main stage at the upcoming fall festival. Considering this list of artists, its no wonder that the Surforama has established itself as premier surf music event in Europe. What better reason to put on those flip-flops one last time before the winter chill sets in?
StuArt yochem

sepTember ’09

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vIbes
words by IsAure coINTreAu

Urban Review
A chance hearing at a Madrid summer concert had Isaure Cointreau soon hunting down the new band behind the sound. She managed to sweet-talk them into an interview at la Casa Encendida.

DJ Cosy O’s

10 tunes that you should have been getting down to this summer

W

hile listening to Anni b Sweet’s new album, Start Restart Undo, I remembered the face of my flatmate when I told her I had bought the CD. Overcome with excitement, I had to give her the music right away. A few weeks earlier in Casa de Campo there was a festival and while heading back we heard some delightful Folk-Indie music. Struck by the crystalline voice of the singer we stayed to listen to the band and in the end asked around to know the name of the performers. That was strike number one. Strike number two I guess would have to have been Myspace. Listening to the tunes displayed on the website along with a little Youtube viewing, the talent of the group was undeniable. Talking with others about it, they couldn’t agree more. This leads to strike three, when La Casa Encendida was hosting an Anni b Sweet concert. Despite the odd hour for a performance, the room was far from empty. At noon the musicians were all on stage and the crowd was thrilled by the soft rhythms of the band. Although they do form a great group where you could sense an obvious bond from in the jokes and bright smiles they share during the show, Ana López and her angelic voice stand out. After the concert, we had a little chat and the young woman’s strong charisma and ambition only added to the addiction she inspires in her music. Her style appears to be a mix of Folk, Indie and Pop, and relates to artists such as Bob Dylan, Cat Power, Feist and Kate Bush. The singer is also the

writer of the album’s songs and through topics related to love, death, the past and life, she asks questions and shares her feelings about them. Though the tunes are innocent, sincere and sometimes melancholic, the catchy rhythms keep bouncing about in your head well after listening. Ana came from Malaga to Madrid to look for a band a little less than two years ago, but the search was at first fruitless and she decided to invest her energies in learning to play the guitar. After a while, things all came together – she mastered her instrument, started writing her songs, and in Brian Hunt and Germán San Martin found the two musicians she would work with on the album. What caught my attention on learning the performer’s mother tongue was Spanish was her unnervingly good English accent and the fact that only one out of 12 album tracks is in Castilian. I figured there was a catch – young Ana López is fluent in both languages having been brought up in a bilingual highschool in southern Spain. The rare prospect of portability beyond the Spanish-speaking world is another weapon in Anni b Sweet’s sugar-coated arsenal. At the moment, the malagueña and her band are travelling all around Spain to promote Start Restart Undo. Though the record isn't officially launched until 19 September, it is already out in CD stores. However, I had to ask: “How about Europe?” Although it is not on the menu for the moment, she would definitely love the idea of having a multinational public. Anni b Sweet most definitely has a wide range of fans waiting for her. She has the talent, the style and the look for it. I can already see young girls imitating their idol’s brunette fringe and retro style. With time, who knows? In any case, check out the tunes.

1 2 3 4 5

Black Eyed Peas be ThAT wAy (compLIcATed)

Jay Z feat Rihanna and Kanye West ruN ThIs TowN

Mary J Blige feat Drake The oNe

David Guetta feat Akon sexy bITch

Sean Paul LATeLy

6 7 8 9 10
Amerie why r u

Drake besT I ever hAd

Mario sTuTTerINg

Jeremih feat Pitbull bIrThdAy sex (upTempo mIx)

Young Money every gIrL

new cd releases
A debut release that has been given the thumbs up in terms of comparisons to Raphael Saadiq and negative feedback regarding overuse of the autotune. Check out the uptempo mix of lead single Birthday Sex. Being a writer, singer, producer and musician should help in his quest to break a saturated market.

JeremIh Jeremih

Amerie’s fourth album features a whole host of top producers including Teddy Riley, Bangladesh, Cool and Dre, but surprisingly, does not feature mentor Rich Harrison. The lead single Why R U samples Ultramagnetic MCs and is making all the right noises from early radio play. Could be a big release.

IN Love ANd wAr Amerie

Check out where cosy o will be spinning this month at www.djcosyo.com
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sepTember ’09

mAdrId AgeNdA compILed IN coLLAborATIoN wITh esmAdrId

whAT’s oN?

FORMuLA ONe RuGbY FOOTbALL
CRICKeT TeNNIS GAA

September
MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY

Sala heineken C Princesa, 1 (90 215 0025) Joy eslava C Arenal, 11 (913 665 439) Sala el Sol C Jardines 3 Metro: Sol (www.elsolmad.com, 91 532 6490) palacio vistalegre utebo 1, Metro: Vista Alegre (914 220 781) palacio de deportes Avenida de Felipe II, s/n (902 33 22 11) la riviera Pº bajo de la Virgen del Puerto, (www.servicaixa.com, 902 33 22 11) moby dick Avda. de brasil, 5 Metro: Cuzco / Santiago bernabeu (902 15 00 25)

SUNDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY
la oreja de 5 van gogh Plaza de

30 auguSt
Real Madrid v Deportivo

31
barcelona v Sporting Gijon

1
england v Australia

2

3

4
Status quo england v Australia

Cyprus v Rep of Ireland, Spain v belgium, england v Slovenia

Toros de Móstoles

6
england v Australia Hurling All-Ireland Final

7

8

9
england v Croatia, Scotland v Netherlands, Spain v estonia
england v Australia

10
los tigres del norte

11
official Secrets act

12

Liverpool v burnley, Tottenham v Man utd

mcFly leonard Cohen

13
Atletico v Racing, espanyol v Real Madrid, Getafe v barcelona
All Ireland Camogie Finals

14

15
deep purple england v Australia

16

1 7
nouvelle vague england v Australia

18
elvis perkins mr.big

raimundo amador bluslerias 09

Sirenia 19 niobeth +

Arsenal v Wigan, West Ham v Liverpool

Chelsea v Tottenham, Man utd v Man City barcelona v Atletico, Real Madrid v xerez
Football All-Ireland Final tarja

20

21
pimpinela Teatro HaagenDazs Calderon

22

23
Atletico v Almeria, Racing v barcelona, Villarreal v Real Madrid

24

25
dan baird & homemade Sin

26
Liverpool v Hull, Stoke v Man utd
the Cult

Singapore Grand Prix Malaga v barcelona, Real Madrid v Tenerife, Valencia v Atletico
All Ireland Ladies Football Finals

27

28
Man City v West Ham
divididos

29
green day

30

1octobEr

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Subway to Sally

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Man utd v Sunderland

maple wood miss Caffeina + 84 Saxon los delinqüentes

Leonard Cohen

Date: 12 September Venue: Palacio de Deportes
A poet and a songwriter, a musician and a singer, a philosopher and a Buddhist. How you define Leonard Cohen is not of importance, but the talent of one of the most incredible Jazz/Folk performers of our time is unquestionable. The emotional force that revolves around the combination of his voice and lyrics has inspired many musicians (Jeff Buckley and Bono are a couple of examples), with sex, spirituality and power being his favourite topics. Best known for hits such as Hallelujah, Suzanne or Bird on the wire, one should not forget that Cohen is also a world-renowned poet with works like Book of Longing, in the best-seller category in Canada. One would be blind to deny the influence his dual career has had upon one another, linking musicality to his verse and vice-versa. Coming to Spain in September, in Madrid on the 12th, let him seduce you one more time with his timeless rhythms. This might be his last dance and your last chance. IsAure coINTreAu

Official Secrets Act
Date: 11 September Venue: Moby Dick
“Wherever they’ll go we’ll be”, this is has been the fans’ response upon hearing the up-and-coming band. The Official Secrets Act appear to have amazed the crowd with their first album, Understanding Electricity. It has only been out a few months and has set the critics alight, with predictions of success and an astonishing future in music. The band isn’t composed of the overdone skinny jeans and nothing in the head sort if their smart little winks and references in their songs are anything to go by. They got to know each other through their mutual interest in Renaissance literature and English military history, but their passion for music was the icing on the cake; the quartet are more than just a fusion of musical ideas. Incendiary guitar and howling vocals strengthened by the bass and drums are the key to their success, harking back more to Brit pop than the music we’ve been hearing in recent years. To add to this, a radio DJ has even defined them as, “The most lyrically erudite band I've heard in a long while”. This comment among others only confirms their talent. Their musical creation and style can be related to timeless groups such as the Beatles or the Libertines, Weezer or Blur. They define themselves as persuasive pop, though in a more general sense they would be referred to as Indie. Frantic guitars, gritty pacing and Burke’s mix of high and lower tones make out for an unbelievable melodious outcome. Some would easily compare them to David Bowie for the eccentricity of their music videos, style and vocals. However, they’re undoubtedly a nice change from the popular bands of the moment and they’re likely to please unconventional music lovers as much as other Indie followers. The big hits of the album seem to be The girl from the BBC, So tomorrow and my personal favourite, Bloodsport. They were on tour with Athlete this summer, going around England, Sweden, Austria, and after Spain they’ll be back in the UK for their last stop in London. A few days before the Noche en Blanco, they will be playing at the Moby Dick Club on 11 September. So come and meet the O.S.A with Thomas Burke, Alexander Mackenzie, James Diamond and Michael Evans for good music and a drink. To be sure, this will be a night to remember. IsAure coINTreAu
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everGREEN DAY
vIbes
words by JeANNe reIdy & peTer moore

Join Jeanne Reidy and Peter Moore fast in the Green Day tickets queue for the 29 September Madrid gig. Miss out and you’ll be a Basket Case on the Boulevard of Broken Dreams When September Ends.

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fter a four-year hiatus from touring, the attention-getting American rock trio, Green Day, are back on the scene and stopping in Madrid for a one night show at the end of the month. It has taken the band, who formed in 1987, a slight early change of members and a couple of record company transfers in order to find their niche to produce continuously controversial music. Billie Joe Armstrong, Mike Dirnt and Tré Cool have proven that they can handle even their harshest critics in order to produce, 21st Century Breakdown (released in May 2009), their eighth and most successful record yet, hitting #1 and Gold or Platinum status in fourteen different countries. The East Bay, California natives have sold over 22 million albums in the United States alone. Their Grammy awards include Best Alternative Album for Dookie, Best Rock Album for American Idiot and Record of the Year

for Boulevard of Broken Dreams. Green Day are in good company as their sound is often compared to that of the Ramones, The Clash and Sex Pistols. The band kicked off their five and a half-month tour on 3 July in Seattle. They’ve worked their way from west to east across the northern U.S. zig-zagging in and out of Canada for shows along the way. From New York, they moved back west throughout the southern states of Florida, Texas and Arizona all the way back to California. From Los Angeles, they will play one night in Lisbon before coming to the Palacio de Deportes in Madrid from where they will tour throughout Europe, Australia and New Zealand in order to finish just before Christmas. These young men have surely made a name for themselves as the crowd of fans gets bigger at every performance and each album sells more copies than the last. Playing only one night in Madrid, punk lovers should get to the box office early as these tickets will most certainly go fast. JeANNe reIdy

t’s an odd thought, but when Green Day clamber on stage at the Palacio de Deportes on 29 September this year, they will be 22 years old. That’s older than the reunified German state and about the same age as Cesc Fàbregas. It’s funny how time passes. For years when I was growing up, Green Day were the best symbols we had of west coast US culture. They had loud tattoos, wore long t-shirts, board shorts and wore their baseball caps back to front. Billie Joe Armstrong leant over his Fender telecaster, belting out a procession of power chords that might have made my mother wonder whether a panzer division was about to appear from behind the nearest hill. The lyrics were dumb – about ex-girlfriends, anxiety disorders and masturbation – and the music was loud. In the wake of Kurt Cobain’s death, Green Day and their power-punk inherited Nirvana’s legacy. In 1994, Dookie, their third studio album, became an unequivocal commercial and critical success. The album climbed to number two on the Billboard 200 and won the Grammy Award for Best Alternative Music Album the following year. The New York Times wrote: “Punk turns into pop in fast, funny, catchy, high-powered songs about whining and channel-surfing; apathy has rarely sounded so passionate.” More than a decade on, the band have just released 21st Century Breakdown to a ripple of applause from the worldwide music press. It’s a very different band from the one that existed during their most popular phase in the mid 1990s, but it’s one with just as much claim to three minutes on a commercial radio station. The success of this latest release comes on the tail of 2004’s American Idiot, a rock opera that saw Armstrong’s brief dalliance with politics and new musical forms, ditching the verse-chorusverse-chorus-bridge structure in favour for something far more experimental. But while Green Day’s sound has moved on, there are still the guitars, the riffs and the big choruses. The welcome difference, however, is that the variety of their songs and the complexity of their lyrics has widened. Green Day albums are now laced with acoustic moments and clever imagery. Recently, British newspaper The Observer compared them with Bruce Springsteen, something that would once have been unthinkable. The undulating synth opening of 21 Guns is a clean highlight on their latest album, and is sure to become a live favourite. And when you line that up alongside Good Riddance, Basket Case, American Idiot, She, Warning, Longview and all the others, you might just be tempted to pull your favourite sunglasses out, slick your hair back and find that orange t-shirt. 29 September in the Palacio de Deportes: it’s head nodding time.
peTer moore

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TrAveL spAIN
words by ryAN crAggs

hough only four hours by car, Valencia offers a multitude of transport options which are quick, easy, and if you plan it right, cheap. Spanair, Iberia, Vueling, and a number of major airlines serve the Valencia airport and tickets often go for under 80€. Slews of buses shuttle between Madrid and Valencia at virtually every hour of every day, so it’s not about finding a bus—just the one at the right time and price. Avanza buses from the Estación Sur can get travellers from Madrid to Valencia for well under 50€, roundtrip. And of course, there’s always the Renfe trains, which if planned properly in advance, prove a great value for their comfort and efficiency. Setting up digs in Valencia is easy. As with any reasonably large city, a number of hostels and hotels await. Luckily, that means that prices remain pretty low. Beds can be had for around 20€ per night, depending on the time of year. Hôme Youth Hostel is a great option, as the proprietors own two other hostels, all with terrific amenities, or if you’re in the market for something a little smaller, try the Indigo Youth Hostel and its bright and cheery décor. Most hostels are right in the city centre and getting around isn’t much work either; Valencia boasts five metro lines, and although the system isn’t extensive, local buses make it easy to get to and fro. And in the warmer months, which are plentiful on the Mediterranean coast, bike rentals present an active, cheap, and picturesque way to see the city. Though replete with natural wonders, Valencia also includes a

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number of man-made sites worth visiting. The Mercado Central bursts with colours and smells in the form of food. Famed architect Santiago Calatrava produced the Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències, a futuristic-looking structure that contains a performing arts centre, a science museum, an IMAX theatre, and the L’Oceanogràfic, the largest aquarium in Europe—the exotic animals sure beat the average barnacles and crabs found near the shore. For those more interested in a walk in the park—well, in fact, the former Turia River has been diverted and the riverbed converted into a park filled with gardens, playgrounds, fountains, and sport areas, making for a relaxing place to breathe in the coastal air. About that language thing: by now you’re probably wondering what language is native to Valencia. Well, the people speak Valencian (Valencià), a language closely related to/dialect of Catalan (depending on whether you listen to Valencian linguists or linguists from elsewhere), though for the most part city-dwellers will speak Castilian Spanish. Outside the city, a greater number will speak solely Valencian and may be offended if you don’t. But no worry— signs, menus, and your typical multilanguage offerings will come in a variety of languages, English often included. Just don’t count on the locals speaking English. As with any seaside city, the beach in Valencia proves a popular spot to visit. August is unbearably hot, usually between 30 and 40 degrees Celsius, though September and October are still pretty active

don’t order paella for dinner; it’s a lunch thing. Don’t go to the places with prominent paella photos displayed outside; they’re surely tourist traps

months for a visit; most café terraces will remain open until the end of October. Spring is usually the best time to visit, and remains most popular, especially during Las Fallas. This celebration in praise of Saint Joseph occurs each year on 15-18 March – of course, it requires an article all its own to describe – but just know that if you like fireworks, parades, floats, and partying, you need to get to Valencia for Las Fallas. Otherwise, visit the Museo Fallero or the Museo de Artistas Falleros to get an idea of what you’re missing out on. No matter what time of year you go, the Barrio del Carmen will always be hopping with plenty of bars and discos to turn the night into dawn, where you can sip on some Agua de Valencia, a local drink usually based on orange juice and Cava, the region’s sparkling wine. If that doesn’t suit you, then saunter over to Juan Lllorens or the area around the university, where as always, students know the right places to party. And lastly, the paella dos and don’ts: don’t order paella for dinner; it’s a lunch thing. Don’t go to the places with prominent paella photos displayed outside; they’re surely tourist traps. To get the best paella, grab a friend – since paella is typically served for two – head for the Malvarrosa beach and check out nearby eateries. There, you can scarf down some wonderful variation of rice, chicken, rabbit, fish and seafood. The only major do for paella, of course, is eating some while in Valencia. And the only major do for Valencia is, well, just going. It’s a trip you’ll forever be glad you made.

L’OcEANOgRàFIc

LAS FALLAS

Valencia

Just as a fresh plate of paella smacks of flavours from the sea and land, the port of Valencia offers all the beauty and charm entailed in a Mediterranean city. Whether frolicking about the shores and soaking up the sun or dancing the night away in a beachside disco, Valencia has loads to offer— a perfect climate, breathtaking vistas, and relaxing beachfront atmosphere at every turn. Only the remiss traveller leaves the third largest city in Spain off a travel itinerary, and even if it’s not during Las Fallas, there’s plenty to see and do in this beautiful locale.
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pArTy phoTos

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TrAveL
words by Luc cIoTkowskI

The top trips you don’t want to miss
Lisbon capital will feel The Portuguese

You want to see it all, but where do you start? Luc Ciotkowski offers some help in prioritizing the trips you will kick yourself if you miss out on. European Vibe pledges to organize group travel to these chosen destinations and more during the course of the 2008/2009 season.
becoming one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, but strolls into our list of unmissable visits. Aside from the jaw-dropping magnificence of the Alhambra and the Generalife gardens, Granada’s nightlife is pound-for-pound the best in Spain (if they were prize fighters of the same size, Granada would give Madrid brain damage in the first round). This, the prestige of its university and relatively low cost of living make it a student paradise, and, when there are 65,000 of them on top of a city of 250,000, it can’t help but make the party atmosphere special. You’ll find the most generouslyportioned free tapas in Spain here if you avoid the most obvious tourist traps. For clubbing, remember these two: Granada Diez and El Camborio.
LisBOn sEViLLa

strange yet familiar to those who know Madrid. It’s true that walking up and down in a place nicknamed ‘The City of Seven Hills’ might take a little effort, but the sights of its vastly differing neighbourhoods (swathes of the city were rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1755) are ample reward. There’s so much to see and do, but Lisbon’s contagious chilled out atmosphere will keep you from rushing. The proximity to the picturesque town of Sintra and the seaside at Estoril and Cascais also give Lisbon much more potential than the average city break.

sought after student party cities and a top destination for foreign students learning Spanish. It’s an easy city to get around and possibly the most Spanish-feeling place you will visit. The golden dustiness of the old town’s sandstone buildings just enhances the city’s stateliness. Spend some time looking for the skull and the frog among the stone shells on the wall of La Casa de las Conchas.

MoroccoSpain, that’s all, 13 kilometres from
Granada CórdOBa

Sevilla the Moors’ The Romans’ Hispalis,

Isbiliya and the Spanish Empire’s trading post with the Americas. Today’s capital of Andalusia is one of the places you must have visited to be able to say you know Spain with any kind of credibility. Some highlights are the Plaza de España (which you might recognize as the royal courtyard of Naboo if you’re a Star Wars fan), the Torre del Oro, the city’s cathedral, the third biggest church in the world, and its Renaissance bell tower, the Giralda, converted from a 12th century Moorish minaret. The other cathedral, the ‘Cathedral of Bullfighting’ as the Plaza de toros de Sevilla is known, is a must-see in itself, but is at its most spectacular during the bullfights of La Feria de Abril. La Feria de Abril and Easter’s Holy Week are the biggest festivals in the city and the best time to visit, though any time in spring and autumn is pleasant.

Córdoba no one calls it Yes, that’s CORdoba;

‘Cordova’ in English anymore. The Andalusian city is synonymous with its Mezquita, the Great Mosque, which remains the greatest piece of Islamic architecture in the Western World despite being converted into a cathedral after the Reconquest. The contrast of chapels and the cathedral nave grafted into the gigantic mosque should really be more offensive to the eye, but it just adds to its mystique. The old Jewish quarter, its synagogue and old town plazas are also great to explore, but you don’t need more than a short trip to see everything. The divine cordobés starter salmorejo is a difficult act to follow for any main dish and it’s what you have to taste while you’re there.

it’s almost like having two continents for the price of one. And when it’s so cheap, it would be rude not to give Morocco a visit. Whether you choose decadent Tangier, exotic Marrakech, bustling Casablanca or the cleaner but dirt-cheap coastal resorts, you’ll start to discover a country that’s rich but poor, near yet far, and nothing if not fascinating.

Lagos, The Algarve several Our pick is Lagos, but
saLamanCa

mOrOCCO

GranadaGranada’s The beautiful city of
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Salamanca of In the area known as the cradle

Moorish Alhambra just missed out on
sepTember ’09

the Castilian language, Salamanca is, along with Granada and Santiago de Compostela, one of the most

LaGOs

candidates stood out along the warmest and best stretch of coast in Europe, Portugal’s Algarve. The Algarve is Portugal’s premier tourist destination because of its dependable weather and its beaches – basically. you can start working on your tan earlier in the year and finish later than anywhere else on the Iberian Peninsula. Lagos combines the tranquil look of a cobblestoned old town with small streets and whitewashed houses surrounded by medieval walls, beaches and almost hidden coves with the most hedonistic nightlife in the region. Lounges, bars and clubs attract the most up-for-it crowd on the Algarve, with a little more class than some Spanish resorts.

TrAveL europe

Oktoberfest
Munich
Pay homage to the heart of beerdom on Earth with Matt Johnson. This year’s festival is on from19 September to 4 October – you’d better get the flights booked…

words by mATT JohNsoN

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TrAveL europe

magine the scene: fairgrounds stretching for miles; lederhosen donning, goofy grinning, beer drinking Bavarians as far as the eye can see; sausages the length of your leg; beers bigger than your head; and, oddly enough, sky-scraping carnival rides, spinning and tossing tourists and locals alike high over the madness. What cruel, heartless bastard decided to throw thrill rides into the mix at a drinking festival? Apparently, Germans have a strange sense of humour – or a ridiculously high tolerance for booze. Either way, as I discovered last September, these Bavarian beer bingers are perhaps the friendliest folk one could hope to encounter on this continent, so it’s no wonder that each fall the people of Munich fling wide the doors of their city, welcoming one and all to join in on the celebration of life, beer, and everything good that is German. The first night at the Fest was like a dream. My friends and I crossed through the gates and wandered into the mouth of the beast with wide-eyed wonderment, sensory overload in full effect. So many beers, so little time! On all sides we were bombarded by beer halls the size of jumbo jet hangars, vendors selling giant German sausages, and carnival rides of all shapes, sizes, and speeds. Without a clue where to begin, we headed to the first tent and squeezed our way into the entry line. After about thirty minutes though, we started to get the message: like Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, no one was going in, and no one was coming out. If only Slugworth was there to finagle us some wristbands… It was time to stop playing around, we decided, and get serious with the drinking. Luckily enough, we discovered that if you can’t make it into a beer tent, you can at least find a seat in the less-crowded, outdoor beer gardens. So as soon as the opportunity presented itself, we slid onto a bench beside some German gentlemen of about 50, ordered our first round of litres, and joined in the festivities. Finally, after years of waiting, the moment had arrived, and as the dirndl-clad waitress set our heavy, foaming mugs on the tabletop, we raised our glasses to the sky. “Here’s to friends, near and far,” we toasted, with the dull chinking of thick glasses. And before we knew it, we were joining in the chorus of Country Roads, Take me Home with our German neighbours – toasting, laughing, and sloshing golden bubbly goodness in all directions until the place cleared out around midnight. Unfortunately for us, day two of

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Oktoberfest fell on a Saturday, and as we should have expected, the fairgrounds were packed to the brim. By the time we got there it was only 1:30, but already the tents were filled to fire code capacity. There were still lines of people waiting to go in though, so we figured we could just wait it out a couple hours and drink some beers in the meantime to catch up with the crowds of rowdy revellers. It didn’t take long however, for our fool’s hope to be shattered by one of the security guards. “The tent is CLOSED!” he announced through cupped, gloved hands. “No one can enter for another four hours. Go try somewhere else! This tent is CLOSED!” In that moment, as our dreams came crashing down around us, a strong resolve awoke like a sleeping beast in my stomach. There’s no way, after coming all the way to Oktoberfest, that I’m not getting into a tent. I worked at a nightclub for the last year – I know how this works. When at first you don’t succeed, bribe, bribe again! So I turned to my slumpshouldered friends: “There’s no way we’re not getting into a tent today. No way. We can either walk around here and waste more time waiting in lines that lead to nowhere, or we can sack up and make a worthy effort. I’m getting into a tent – or I’m going to die trying. It’s time to start with the bribery.” Although denied in our first attempts, it didn’t take long to find the right person for the job. The security guards were everywhere, and luckily for us they all spoke English. After being shot down by guard #1, I approached the next with confidence: “How much do we have to pay you for four people?” He said nothing, but nodded to the man at the door, who came out to negotiate. “How many people do you have with you?” He asked, checking over both shoulders. “Four. How much?” I answered. “Fifty Euro.” I looked at my friends who nodded in consent. “Okay, let’s do it,” I shrugged. “Lead the way.” “Follow me around to the back,” he ordered. Then, after a sketchy cash transaction and a few rounds of victorious fist pumping, we sneaked in through the back doors and entered upon what can only be described as the Mecca of beerdom on Earth. Now, the only impression I’d had on the insides of these things were what I’d seen online. I knew their size, I knew

It was like an out of body experience – I’d died and gone to beer drinker’s heaven. This was my peak. This was my moment. This was my Graceland.

their capacity, I knew their decorations; but as soon as we emerged into the main room, I saw the most overwhelmingly beautiful thing to ever have existed in the history of the world. Words don’t do it justice. It was nothing short of spectacular. Sky blue and white streamers looped symmetrically from the towering ceiling. Matching paintings of jolly Germans in traditional dress surrounded us on all sides. The room stretched on for what seemed to be a quarter mile, and what must have been an ocean of at least 10,000 Germans in traditional dress, with giant mugs in hand, stood atop hundreds of picnic tables, singing and swaying like a current of drunken reeds. And at centre stage: an elevated platform occupied by a German rock band. It was like an out of body experience – I’d died and gone to beer drinker’s heaven. This was my peak. This was my moment. This was my Graceland. Please. For me. For your dignity. For your unborn children. Stop reading now and go see it for yourself. I could go on for days about this event, and if page space permitted I most definitely would. But hey, why waste your time with my story when you could just go there this month and make your own?

english Speaking Travel Agency
C/Gran Vía 80, 8º piso, ofic. 814 Tel: 902 883 089
My Metro

www.castillatours.com
sepTember ’09
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Plaza de España

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LINgo sTAr
words by susANA Lopez

the Section For leArning SpAniSh

Lingo Star Survival Special

Vocabulario
teléfono de contrato > contract phone teléfono de tarjeta > pay-as-you-go phone recarga > recharge Saldo > credit tarifa 24 horas > 24-hour flat rate tarifa nocturna > night rate Mensaje de texto > text message Llamada > call cargador > charger Página web > website cobro revertido > reverse charge Precio > price

buying phones and making calls

Diálogo
D: David J: James En una tienda de móviles, James quiere comprar un teléfono. D: J: D: J: D: Buenos días ¿en qué puedo ayudarte? Hola, quería un teléfono móvil. Muy bien. ¿De contrato o de tarjeta? No sé qué es mejor Bueno, yo te recomendaría un teléfono de contrato porque el precio de las llamadas es más barato. Claro, depende de cuánto tiempo vas a quedarte en Madrid. Vale. Creo que prefiero uno de tarjeta que puedo recargar cuando necesite ¿verdad? Sí, así es. Puedes recargarlo en cajeros automáticos, a través de nuestra página web, en tiendas y en cabinas telefónicas. Perfecto. ¿Y cuánto cuesta el minuto de cada llamada? ¿Y los mensajes de texto? Con una tarifa única de 24 horas, el precio por minuto es de 38 céntimos. ¿Y el mensaje? 15 céntimos por cada mensaje. otra pregunta: ¿Puedo utilizarlo en el extranjero? Sí, pero tendrás tarifas especiales dependiendo del país donde estés. Puedes consultar toda la información en nuestra página web. gracias. creo que me lo voy a llevar. Muy bien, necesito tu documentación para dar de alta la tarjeta aquí tengo mi pasaporte. Gracias

Our Lingo Star, Susana López, gives us all the vital info to prepare us for calling and getting a phone in Spain.
hether you have been in Spain for a while or you have just landed, you may need some information about the calling system, phones and choices here. There are four main mobile phone providers in Spain at the moment: Orange, Vodafone, Movistar and Yoigo. All of them offer special rates depending on what you buy, but choose carefully what is best for you as mobile phone calls in Spain are the most expensive in Europe (according to the European Commission study which was published in March 2009). Anyway, you need to be connected in Madrid as you would be anywhere else, and using a foreign mobile here has the potential to cripple you financially in a very short space of time. Your options are a contract phone or a pay-as-you-go one. With the prepay option, you just recharge it whenever you want or you need it and if you have an unblocked phone, you need only buy a SIM card. Bear in mind if you are buying a mobile for pay-as-you-go, even the most basic handset models are expensive by other countries’ standards. If you go for the contract, you should be able to get a free or cheap phone into the deal and you will see the rate per call per minute is considerably lower than with pay-as-you-go. In both cases you will need to show your passport or resident card/certificate number (N.I.E.) in order to register the phone/SIM (a legal requirement nowadays in Spain). Pay-as-you-go SIM cards will need to be recharged when they

J: D: J: D: J: D: J: D: J: D: J: D:

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are out of credit. There are many ways: at ATMs, on the operator’s website, phone boxes and supermarkets. If you plan to make international calls regularly, ask at the shop for a contract with a tariff plan that makes phoning abroad more reasonable. If you are not that keen on using your mobile phone to call abroad, look at the choices below: Locutorios: in these places you can make calls at cheaper rates and they offer other services such as photocopying, internet and money transferring. cabinas telefónicas: the traditional public phones down the street. They seem to be disappearing in Madrid. skype: free calls if the person you are trying to get hold of has it on their computer. Even if they don’t, prices compare well to most mobile providers. In case of emergency or if you are in need of calling someone but have no cash, there is the possibility of making a reverse charges/collect call. You just need to dial 009 (for Spain), 008 (for Europe, Turkey and the Maghreb) or 005 (for the rest of the world) and tell the operator the phone number you want to call (including the country and area code). Then you will have to wait until your call is accepted by the person on the other side. useful numbers Emergencies, ambulance, police and fire brigade : 112 (All over Europe). Local Police: 092 National police 091

Unos minutos después… D: Pues aquí está todo. Son 30 euros. J: gracias D: si tienes algún problema con el teléfono puedes traerlo o llamar al teléfono gratuito 6000 J: Muchas gracias. Hasta luego D: Adiós

una llamada a cobro revertido
O: Operadora P: Pedro O: Buenos días, le atiende la operadora 3170. ¿En qué puedo ayudarle? P: Hola. Quiero hacer una llamada a cobro revertido a Portugal. O: Muy bien. Indíqueme el número de teléfono con el código del país P: Es el 00351 216456773 o: un momento, por favor. … O: La persona con la que quiere hablar acepta su llamada P: Muchas gracias. Hola Helga….

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San Sebastián de los Reyes birth took place in 1492, when some inhabitants of Alcobendas asked the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, for help to escape the tyranny of Alcobendas’ governor. As a result of this, an area was separated from Alcobendas and took the name San Sebastián de los Reyes from San Sebastián Chapel, which is located in this area, and from the Catholic Monarchs.

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an Sebastián de los Reyes is located to the north of Madrid next to the town of Alcobendas. It is famous for its festivities at the end of August, which some people compare to San Fermín in Pamplona, because of its encierros.

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Sanse has an interesting combination PARQUE DE CARAMUEL of remaining aspects of its origin as a small town and developments as a modern city. The smalltown tradition of peñas Inhabitants in (informal but this area call close-knit clubs their city with of friends) cohabit affection “Sanse” with new and hi-tech and they call No.10DE LA PARQUE CUÑA VERDE leisure programmes, themselves “Sanseros”. CEMENTERIO DE LATINA « DE SAN ISIDRO San Sebastian involving video de los Reyes game competitions, Sanse has been the rival of role-play games, Alcobendas for many years and PARQUE DE CEMENTERIO SAN ISIDRO comics, graffiti workshops, rap SANTA MARÍA even in the twentieth century some DE festivals youngsters from both towns would fight etc. There is also an emphasis on in the street. But nowadays most people promotion of volunteer activities and a are in favour of reinforcing cooperation push to improve sports facilities. and joint projects between the towns Sanse is a quiet yet culturally vibrant Some people have even taken to the town. We have three libraries, a theatre, streets to demonstrate for it. a museum of traditions and a packed events diary. Sanse is becoming larger and richer than before. Its old town is now Sanse has much more to be proud of surrounded by blocks of houses, new than its famous encierros. In my opinion, private housing estates, parks, shops, it is one of the best places to live in businesses and public buildings. New inhabitants are swelling the population Madrid. LAurA rAmos
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all the time; both immigrants from other countries and those coming EL LAGO from other parts of Madrid and Spain. It is also now better served by public transport than before due to RECINTO FERIAL Metronorte, a prolongation of metro DE ERMITA CASA DE CAMPO LA VIRGEN line 10, and three stations are located DEL PUERTO in Sanse. A change also has occurred in PUENTE DE SEGOVIA its political tendency with a right-wards swing in 2007 to the Partido Popular, who won the elections for the first time since democracy. Now some citizens are protesting against the new council’s installation of parquímetros already famous inLATINA Madrid Capital.
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words by peTer moore

Inglourious Basterds Julie & Julia
DIRectoR: Quentin tArAntino cAst: BrAd pitt, mélAnie lAurent & eli roth spAnIsh tItle: mAlditoS BAStArdoS ReleAse DAte: 18 Sept 2009 DIRectoR: norA ephron cAst: meryl Streep, Amy AdAmS, StAnley tucci & chriS meSSinA spAnIsh tItle: Julie & JuliA ReleAse DAte: 2 oct 2009

In the 1990s there was nothing to match a Quentin Tarantino film. Jumbled chronology, witty dialogue, unnecessary violence and tasty hamburgers, Tarantino was the iconic director of his age: clever, sly and ready to kill. This September marks the long awaited Spanish debut of Inglourious Basterds, a project with which Tarantino has been meddling about a decade. Inglourious Basterds is billed as a spaghetti western set in NAZI occupied France in the 1940s. A band of American soldiers have been recruited to storm the countryside, bringing their commander Aldo the Apache (Brad Pitt), a native of Tennessee with a slanted accent and a thin moustache, 100 dead NAZIs each. At once it strikes you as a rather vapid premise. A band of gum-chewing, righteous American soldiers parachuted into war—ravaged Europe with the neat task of restoring order and kicking ass. Brad Pitt marshals his men along the way with all the rhetorical brutality of the drill sergeant in Full Metal Jacket as NAZI body parts are stacked up before him. Into the plot are thrown

the war’s great protagonists, Hitler, Goebbels and Churchill. The British come up with a plan, the Jews are chased by the NAZIs and the American bullets fly. It’s a curious fact that so often the things on which we work the hardest are often not the things that are successful. This seems to be the case with Inglourious Basterds. While it has the sleek punch and black humour of any Tarantino production, the critics are already throwing their stones. “Brad Pitt gives the worst performance of his life”, claimed the Guardian, and, after seeing the film at Cannes, the Daily Telegraph reported: “Most critics agreed that the story of a Jewish-American unit out for Nazi scalps is no match for his previous efforts Pulp Fiction and Reservoir Dogs.” Inglourious Basterds is to Quentin Tarantino what Chinese Democracy was to Guns and Roses. A long awaited masterpiece: a glorious idea that has occupied him for more than a decade. To realize his vision he had fiddled with history and engaged with some of the most complex events and personalities of the 20th century. It is a brave project, but it could also be the one which reveals his limits as a filmmaker.

No guns, no car chase, no Death Star and no Lord Voldemort, just dinner parties, a No guns, no car chase, no Death Star and Voldemort, just steady flow of red no Lordflow of red wine,dinner parties, a steady tall white hats the wine, tall white hats andJulia isoccasional exploding pot, Julie & a refreshing change from the that we’ve and the occasional everyday cinematic fodderone piece of grown quite used to. If you decide to go along, just remember this exploding pot advice: make sure you’ve eaten first.

Julie & Julia is a wistful tale that charts the life of Julia Child (Meryl Streep), the cook that introduced the art of French cuisine to the American public. Julia’s story is mirrored 50 years later by Julie Powell (Amy Adams), a disillusioned office worker, who sets herself the task of blogging 524 of Child’s recipes from Mastering the Art of French Cooking in a single year.

It’s a clever, original idea, which juxtaposes the lives of two women who lived in very different societies but who are linked by their reverence for cooking and food. Director Nora Ephron wonderfully portrays Parisian society of the 1950s, where Child defied gender and cultural boundaries to excel among French chefs at the famous Cordon Bleu cooking school, while in the film’s dual narrative, Julie Powell, toils in a Manhattan kitchen – enjoying the sort of luck with her filet mignon that Bridget Jones enjoyed in recruiting a husband. The subject matter, if a little tame by Hollywood standards, is rich enough to draw you in and make you relate with the characters. The story gives us a carefully constructed snapshot of how society has changed in half a century. Where a woman in the 1950s might turn to cooking and writing to escape from a drab existence, a woman in the early 21st century could do exactly the same – albeit digitally, through a blog.

Inglourious Basterds is to Quentin Tarantino what Chinese Democracy was to Guns and Roses
22
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sepTember ’09

new movie releASeS

fILm fIrsT

oRIGInAl veRsIon cIneMAs (v.o.)
Alphaville Golem
Address: Martín de los Heros, 14 Tel: 915 593 836 Zone: Central Price: 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10)
ReleAse DAte: 4 Sept 2009
spAnIsh tItle: Funny people

ReleAse DAte: 4 Sept 2009
spAnIsh tItle: gAmer

Rodríguez (Line 3)

Pequeño Cine Estudio

Address: Magallanes, 1 Tel: 914 472 920 Zone: Chamberi Price: 6.50 € Metro: Quevedo (Line 2) Rodríguez (Line 3)

Princesa

Address: Calle de la Princesa, 3 Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 888 902 Zone: Moncloa-Aravaca Price: Mon-Fri 6.20 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)
ReleAse DAte: 4 Sept 2009
spAnIsh tItle: Qué leS pASA A loS homBreS?

ReleAse DAte: 11 Sept 2009
spAnIsh tItle: 12 trAmpAS

Rodríguez (Line 3)

Renoir Cuatro Caminos

Address: Raimundo Fernández Villaverde, 10 Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122 Zone: Chamberi Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Cuatro Caminos (Lines 1, 2 & 6)

Renoir Plaza de España
Address: Martín de los Heros, 12 Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122 Zone: Central Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España Rodríguez (Line 3)

Win five cinema tickets for you and your friends!
Yelmo Cine Ideal, the biggest original language cinema in Madrid, are giving away five free tickets to see a film of your choice at their theatre in Calle Doctor Cortezo. All you have to do is answer the following question: Despite Inglourious Basterds being brad Pitt and Quentin Tarantino’s first time working together, brad had co-starred in which movie written by tarantino? Send your predictions and contact details in an email entitled “Yelmo Film competition” to editor@europeanvibe.com before 17th September 2009. Good luck to you all!

ReleAse DAte: 18 Sept 2009
spAnIsh tItle: diStrito 9

ReleAse DAte: 18 Sept 2009
spAnIsh tItle: mAlditoS BAStArdoS

Renoir Princesa

Address: Calle de la Princesa, 5, Pje. Martín de los Heros Tel: 915 599 872 & 902 229 122 Zone: Central Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3) Rodríguez (Line 3)
Please note: details of all films are correct at the time of publication.

Renoir Retiro

ReleAse DAte: 25 Sept 2009
spAnIsh tItle: expediente 39

ReleAse DAte: 25 Sept 2009

spAnIsh tItle: JenniFer'S Body (pendiente titulo eSpAnol)

Address: Narváez, 42 Tel: 902 229 122 Zone: Retiro Price: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 € Metro: Ibiza (Line 9) Rodríguez (Line 3)

Verdi

Address: Bravo Murillo, 28 Tel: 914 473 930 Zone: Chamberi Price: 6.50 € Metro: Canal (Lines 2 & 7), Quevedo (Line 2) Rodríguez (Line 3)

Yelmo Cines Ideal

ReleAse DAte: 25 Sept 2009

spAnIsh tItle: the inFormAnt (pendiente titulo eSpAnol)

ReleAse DAte: 2 oct 2009
spAnIsh tItle: Julie & JuliA

Address: Doctor Cortezo, 6 Tel: 902 220 922 Zone: Central Price: 7.10 € Metro: Tirso de Molina (Line 1)

Join our monthly Cinema Club We go once a month to see the latest releases. Sign up at www.europeanvibe.com

sepTember ’09

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23

sporT
words by Luc cIoTkowskI

Kaká and Cristiano Ronaldo

represent the Portuguese side of Euro 2004. He helps the host nation to their first major final, contributing two goals, only to suffer a shock defeat by the unfancied Greece side. He is selected in the Team of the Tournament.

2005 Milan team Kaká is in the

The road to the Bernabéu
1982Teacher Simone –
22 April

that lose the Champions League final on penalties to Liverpool, but is awarded UEFA Midfielder of the Year. The same summer, he wins the Confederations Cup with Brazil, scoring a goal in the final. In September, hours before a World Cup qualifier, Portugal coach Scolari breaks the news to Ronaldo that his father, Dinis, has died at the age of 52. The emotional 20-yearold plays the match and will, from now on, end his goal celebrations with a dedication to his dad. In December, Kaká marries Caroline Celico, his childhood sweetheart, in São Paulo.

We all know what Real Madrid did last summer. Luc Ciotkowski charts the lives of their two big Lusophone signings up until the return of Presidente Pérez.
Cristina Santos Leite gives birth to a boy in the Brazilian capital, Brasília. She and her civil-engineer husband, Bosco Izecson Pereira Leite, name the baby Ricardo. talent. Streets ahead of the other players, he regularly gets frustrated and cries when he passes to his teammates and they fail to score. This earns him the cruel nickname chorão, crybaby. down in agony when he returns to training a few days later. Doctors find he has a fractured cervical vertebra, that is, a broken neck, and he should be paralyzed from the neck down. His football career is seriously threatened and the two months he spends in a treatment jacket are crucial. Miraculously, he makes a full recovery and attributes this to Divine Intervention. He pledges to tithe his salary to the Evangelical Church and vows to dedicate his career and life to God.

2006 grows and Kaká’s influence

dos Santos Aveiro has her fourth child to José Dinis Aveiro in Funchal, capital of the Portuguese island of Madeira. They call him Cristiano Ronaldo; the second name after Dinis’ favourite actor and current American president Ronald Reagan. 14 October – three-year-old Ricardo Izecson Pereira Leite gets a little brother, Rodrigo. Later, as Rodrigo grows into a toddler and learns to speak, his inability to pronounce ‘Ricardo’ will lead to the creation of his brother’s nickname, Kaká. Rodrigo will also become a professional footballer and be known by a nickname like his brother. Digão (Big Dig, for being 1.94m tall), as he will become known, will join his brother at AC Milan in 2005 but spend much of his time on loan.

1985 – Maria Dolores
5 February

1994 to take a special Kaká begins
interest in religion as an Evangelical Christian.

1996 recommended The highly

he his once again Serie A Foreign Footballer of the Year and in the UEFA Team of the Year, but can’t prevent Brazil crashing out of the World Cup against France. Ronaldo’s protests to the referee before England striker Wayne Rooney is sent off in the World Cup quarter final, his subsequent wink caught on camera and scoring the winning penalty in the shootout all make returning to England look difficult. Real Madrid come knocking for the first time, but United resist.

11-year-old Ronaldo travels to Lisbon for Sporting Clube de Portugal’s annual trials. He impresses so much that Sporting write off a debt Nacional had for the equivalent in old escudos of 22,500€ to sign the youngster. The family make the sacrifice of letting him move to Lisbon, where settling in is difficult; the skinny, curly-haired kid is teased for his islander accent and it is said that his best friend is a football.

2001 his senior debut Kaká makes

2007 the UEFA AC Milan win 2003 clubs come Several European

2000Cristiano Ronaldo 15-year-old

for São Paulo and scores 27 goals in 27 appearances. Ronaldo is the first player ever to represent the Sporting at the five levels from the Under-16s to the senior team in the same season. His performances at the UEFA Under-17 Championship catch Liverpool manager Gérard Houillier’s eye. The Frenchman decides to hold off signing him and see how he develops as a young player.

1989 to São Paulo with Kaká moves 1993Ronaldo starts at his Cristiano
first club, Andorinha, where it became clear he has a special

his family and a year later begins training with São Paulo football club each day after school.

is diagnosed with a racing heart. Sporting fly his mother, Dolores, to Lisbon to sign permission forms to perform laser surgery on Cristiano. Surgeons cauterize the part of his heart causing the problem and declare the operation a success. Kaká dives into a swimming pool while on holiday, misjudging its depth, and cracks his head against the bottom. Though initial examinations show nothing serious, the 18-year-old breaks

2002 his debut for the Kaká makes

Brazil national team in January against Bolivia and, later, Felipão Scolari selects him in the squad for the World Cup in South Korea and Japan. He comes on midway through the second half in the first round match against Costa Rica, but it will be his only on-field action in the tournament. The Rivaldo-Ronaldo-inspired Brazil go on to win a record fifth World Cup and Kaká is a world champion.

knocking on São Paulo’s door to enquire about their playmaker and AC Milan finally sign Kaká for 8.5 million euros. David Beckham leaves Manchester United for Real Madrid. United fill the vacant number seven shirt by paying 17.35 million euros for Sporting’s star teenager. Days later, he makes his international debut in a 1-0 win over Kazakhstan. Ronaldo’s first goal for Man Utd is a free kick against Portsmouth in November.

Champions League and their star and driving force is Kaká, who wins a long list of awards. Finally at the top, the football’s governing body pays him homage with the FIFA World Player of Year. Cristiano Ronaldo receives third place for the same award, having won the Premier League for the first time with Man Utd.

2008 the Premier Ronaldo retains

2004 his first season Kaká finishes

with 10 goals and wins the Italian league, Serie A Footballer of the Year and UEFA Super Cup. Ronaldo is called up by exBrazil coach Felipão Scolari to

League and emulates Kaká’s feat of the previous year by winning the Champions League and FIFA World Player of the Year award. El Madrid chase the Portuguese with more perseverance, but Alex Ferguson insists he, “Wouldn’t sell Real Madrid a virus”. Kaká becomes a father of a baby boy he and Caroline call Luca. He signs a contract extension until 2013.

2009 Pérez – Florentino
1 June

returns unrivalled to the presidency of Real Madrid.

24

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sepTember ’09

sporT

Kaká and Cristiano Ronaldo: who’s the hottest?
Football fans can argue for hours about who, from Kaká, Cristiano Ronaldo and Lionel Messi, is the best player in the world. Is it any easier to separate the new Real Madrid pair in terms of attractiveness? We asked Helen Macrae, and she didn’t sit on the fence.
e all feel the need for some retail therapy now and again, but let’s hope Florentino’s little summertime spending spree wasn’t in vain and does indeed usher in a more successful era for Real Madrid after being trounced by Barça in pretty much everything last season. Amongst the new superstar signings, the two that will undoubtedly command most column inches and television hours are Kaká and Cristiano Ronaldo, although the burning question isn’t whether they’re worth those huge transfer fees or what part they’ll play in the second Galácticos era. Hell no, it boils down to just three simple words: hot or not? Let’s start with Kaká. His Brazilian heritage and brooding Latino looks certainly work to his advantage, all that pitch action means he’s in damn fine shape and at 6’1 he’s nice and tall, plus he comes off looking pretty sharp in those Armani ad campaigns of his. Throw in fame, wealth and immense talent (so call me shallow) and you’ve got yourself a very attractive-sounding

words by heLeN mAcrAe

W

package. Yet to me he isn’t even remotely sexy. Is it the fact he’s happily married to his childhood sweetheart, or because I find the sort-of translation of his nickname far more amusing than I should (so call me shallow AND juvenile), or is it those bible-basher “I belong to Jesus” t-shirts he wears underneath his strip? Whatever it is, we all know girls go for bad boys. Staying in on a Saturday night with a cup

of tea before getting up early for church in the morning just doesn’t cut it. With a string of model girlfriends and a penchant for partying, no one can accuse Cristiano Ronaldo of being boring. Instead, he’s an arrogant, greasy, perma-tanned, smug, repulsive, badly-dressed, overpaid, vain, cretinous toe-rag whose special talents include

diving and, err, more diving. Oh, and temper tantrums when he doesn’t get his own way. Call that a real man? Of course, if you can see past the oil, the hair-gel, the pout and the fact that he’s basically the Portuguese version of a chav, you’ve got to admit he’s got a ripped body, an alright face (and, ok, fantastic technical skills), but accompanied by a HUGE ego = HUGE turnoff. Plus he just continues to prove what an idiot he is. Winking to the Portuguese bench after getting Rooney sent off in the 2006 World Cup: utter wanker. Totalling his Ferrari: nice move! Allegedly bumping uglies with Paris Hilton: can anyone think of anything more repellent?! Still, saves them from spoiling another couple of people I suppose. So there you go, an honest and completely objective (!) evaluation of the relative merits of Real Madrid’s two newest show ponies, with the conclusion that neither really tickles my fancy. If I was forced to choose though, I’d have to go with Kaká by default. Cristiano Ronaldo is just way too annoying.

sporT
words by mArTIN QuINN

Kings of the Concrete Jungle
madrid Lions Rugby those games that you Rugby is one of
don’t have to love but couldn’t hate. I’m not a massive fan but I have more than a passing interest whenever Ireland or one of the Irish provincial sides are doing well. This year was particularly good for Ireland, having won their first Six Nations Grand Slam in over 60 years and provincial side Leinster winning the Heineken Cup. When I was young I was supposed to start with the local rugby team in Ballymena, Northern Ireland. Back home, rugby’s considered a game of the Protestant middle classes though the club made a concerted effort to get Catholic schoolkids involved by sending representatives around all the local schools. A few classmates went and, over the years became decent players as well as enjoying more than a few boozy trips in foreign climes. In the Republic of Ireland it’s extremely popular too, especially in the far south, in cities like Limerick and Cork, and Irish success generally brings the country together in, yep you’ve guessed, the pub. Here in Spain, it enjoys a healthy popularity, though it’s got its back against the wall when competing against basketball and soccer. The Spanish capital has its very own group of followers and competitors of the ovalesque game in the shape of the Madrid Lions. The Lions, whose spiritual home is Finnegan’s Irish Pub, a seller of wines and spirits, are a group of people drawn together into a social club by a love of their chosen sport. They’re also fond of a drink or ten. I met them once before and they’re extremely friendly and eager to recruit new players. And in Madrid, a hub of sport-related social clubs competing for interest, they do well. Since their inception in 1997, they have had over 400 members through the doors from about two dozen countries. Like most guiri-populated societies, there is a large and regular turnover of membership due to the uncertain length of time that expats hang about Madrid before moving on or going back home. Saying that, they have some long-time members, not least among them founding members Charlie Humphrey and Henry McDonald. The Lions compete in 7-a-side tournaments and host guest teams, generally from England, though they don’t compete in a league. The Lions, being a typical rugby side, have also managed to get their feet in a few pub doorways. They meet every Thursday from 9.30PM in Finnegan’s in Plaza de las Salesas, where the drink is cheap and the craic flowing faster than the beertaps. A club member can also expect to be fed and watered here with a burger and two pints for 10€. They also meet up in other pubs like O’Connor’s in Alonso Martínez, Bó Finn’s on the corner of C/Diego de Leon and C/Velázquez, Whelan’s Pub in Alcalá de Henares and Steinlager, which is close to Plaza Castilla. The world is changing. Sport is changing and nowadays, frankly, it’s about the money baby. Football is one such sport that has been wrecked due to the hyperinflation of signings, wages and prices for tickets and merchandise. Stories reminiscent of Liverpool’s Bill Shankly

A great way to keep fit, a great way to meet people, joining a sports club is one of the most effective routes to feeling at home in Madrid. Martin Quinn gives you the lowdown on Madrid Lions rugby club and a number of other sports clubs set up by and for the Englishspeaking international community.
throwing agents out of his office so that the player would have to negotiate directly with the manager don’t happen anymore and the same goes for other sports. Rugby Union, however, is a bit different. It has professionalized in recent years but the players still hold on strongly to the idea of amateurism. The love of the sport overrules any financial gain and this simple idea is evident within the Madrid Lions. They are reluctant to become a competitive side because they have always tried to give everyone who joins a run-on. Because rugby is a game that unites rather than divides, they don’t want to become a team that excludes people. One example of the togetherness that emanates from the club is this story. A Brazilian joined the club. Now this nationality isn’t known for its rugby prowess but, with dedicated training and help from his fellow club members, over time he became a decent player. The club also includes Argentineans, Basques, French as well as members from the Home Nations. These are all strong rugby nations but they welcome everyone from every corner of the globe. They also try to get to a few places around the globe and have returned from a visit to Budapest in May. They have an excellent website at www.madridlionsrfc.com and are also on Facebook. They can be contacted at info@madridlionsrfc.com. They train on Saturday afternoons, generally around 1.30PM and the place varies depending on where has been booked. From September they will be recruiting for the new season, so get your skates on and the boots out if you fancy a bit of rugger and a booze-up.

madrid LiOns

rugby is a game that unites rather than divides, they don’t want to become a team that excludes people

26

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sepTember ’09

sporT

Hash House Harriers

The Madrid chapter, founded in 1984 is part of a worldwide network of Hash House Harriers running clubs and meet in Larry’s Bar, just off Plaza Cuzco on the Paseo de la Castellana. They meet a few times a week during summer for a run, though from Autumn, it will be just a Sunday afternoon at 1.00. The meeting point is generally somewhere close to the city centre. From there, they go to pre-prepared running routes outside the city and, afterwards, off for a bite to eat and a drink. They average about 50 runners a week, they are totally non-competitive and very welcoming. So if you fancy a run in the hills, check out their rather humorous website at www.madridhhh.com and remember Commandment 20 of the HHH 30 Commandments:

want to take it further, the possibility exists. The club is planning a Mixed Martial Arts show in the near future. For more details on the Madrid Muaythai Club see their website at www. muaythaimadrid.com. Further information on the club can be seen in my blog post on www.europeanvibeblog.com.

HasH HOusE HarriErs

Intelligence is neither required nor Intelligence is on the required nor appreciated neither Hash. appreciated on the Hash. Thinkingon the run is a punishable offence! Thinking on the run is a punishable offence!

muay thai Boxing

Fancy getting your head punched in? Me neither, but I know a place that will equip you with the skills to prevent its likelihood. The Madrid Muaythai Boxing Club is a wellequipped club with a friendly atmosphere. It also has outstanding coaches, trained in Muaythai and Mixed Martial Arts. It has lower and higher level classes, so don’t feel afraid that you’re biting off more than you can chew, the other fighters will go as soft or hard as you want. You’ll also be taught effective self-defence techniques, taken from Mixed Martial Arts. Muaythai, the ancient Art of Eight Limbs (Feet, Knees, Elbows and Fists) is a popular form of fitness training and is as popular amongst the ladies as the chaps. Although most people opt for the non-competitive approach, if you

Native Irish sports are available in Madrid in the form of the Madrid Harps and an Iberian league exists in Gaelic Football. The Gaelic Athletic Association always puts down a base wherever there is an Irish population to host it and the GAA is about the best ambassador the country has ever had. The game has existed for several hundred years and the other big Gaelic sport, hurling, for several thousand. I played in a tournament for the Harps before and you’ll be surprised at the amount of Spaniards who play to a high level. They are extremely sociable with regular nights out, trips away (to compete in the league as much as to drink!) and meet-ups organized to watch the championships back in Ireland. There are ladies and men’s sides and the girls are currently the Iberian champions. They train at the Complutense throughout the year and their website is www.madridgaa.com. They can be contacted at 645164913 or madridharps@gmail.com.

Gaa A Bit of Irish?

muay THai BOxinG madrid Harps

Football in Madrid
It’s easy enough to get a game in the city of the sport of the masses, be it 5-a-side up to 11s. The EFL, which has been going for nearly 30 years, is a 5-a-side league of multiple nationalities and personalities. The games are played at Colegio Santa María del Pilar beside Sainz de Baranda metro, and this year’s fixtures can be played on a Saturday or

THE EFL

a Sunday, whichever best suits the teams. The league is good craic, but it has a strong competitive edge, so be prepared to have your skills and nerve tested. It is starting up again in October with a tournament planned for the start of the month. The man to speak to is Lewis Carroll at Lewis. carroll@Honeywell.com if you want to enter a team. If it’s a friendly, casual game you’re after, you’re catered for too. Individual players can sign up week-to-week for a two-hour session of scratch-team matches open to all at the same venue. Those interested just have to register on the web board http:// futbolmadrid.proboards.com, find out the times on there and put their names down to play. If you prefer a bigger pitch and more players, the full-sized version of the beautiful game is on offer as well. FC Britanico is one such team competing in and around Madrid. They’re an 11-a-side team that were formed in 1972 by workers and associates of the British Embassy. They essentially exist to give English speakers a game, but they operate a rule of allowing three foreigners on the side too. They have a big setup and compete in several leagues, including the Liga MIVAM, of which Britanico is this year’s champion. Their website is www.fcbritanico.com and can be contacted through their manager Stuart Gibb at 650060371 or lospinos@hotmail. com. Alternatively, you can contact Rami Majid at 610788217 or rmajid@laestrella.es and also the captain Gary Weir at 650686840 or garyweir1@hotmail.com. So now you don’t have any excuses for letting yourself go. The great price of offlicence alcohol over here might be tempting enough for you to develop a drink problem, so what better than to balance it off with a bit of sport!

FC BriTaniCO

cuLTure
words by ryAN crAggs

ll the world’s a stage, and all the men and women merely players,” or so says Jacques in his famous monologue from As You Like It. Taking these words to heart, then, reminds us that the greatest stage of all athletics is the world stage—none bigger than the Olympic Games. Only a year removed from the last summer event held in Beijing, memories of remarkable triumphs and new heroes still resonate. And for as fascinating as the athletic feats themselves are, a glimpse behind-the-scenes proves just as intriguing. At this very moment, Madrid is embroiled in the competition before the competitions: the bid for the Games of the XXXI Olympiad, better known as the 2016 Olympics. Four metropolises await the final decision from the International Olympic Committee on 2 October, and each represents a different stretch of the globe: Madrid, Chicago, Rio de Janeiro, and Tokyo. Surely residents of any of the aforementioned cities will be familiar with the propaganda pushing each city’s bid for the Games—ads are prominent throughout each place, just as in Madrid. Often the final designation comes down to splitting hairs, so the question remains: what does hosting the Olympics mean? The lasting images of the Olympics prove nearly ubiquitous: national heroes, inhuman feats of strength and speed, glittering medals and tears of joy and defeat. Harkening back thousands of years to the tradition of the Ancient Games of Olympia, the modern Olympics seek to find the best at any given sport. And yet, since the rebirth of the Games, athletics have been mired in controversy. Corruption, nepotism, financial impracticality, boycotts, steroids, and cheating have at times overshadowed the spirit of supposedly pure competition. The influence of politics in a proclaimed apolitical competition cannot be overstated. For a 20-year period beginning in 1968, world politics dictated the most compelling stories of the Olympics. In 1968 in Mexico City, the first Games held in a developing country were remembered for two raised fists. In 1972, the Munich Games were hijacked by the murders of 11 Israeli athletes at the hands of

“A

2 October is almost upon us and with it the International Olympic Committee’s meeting in Copenhagen. Tokyo, Chicago, Rio de Janeiro or Madrid will finally emerge as hosts for the 2016 Olympic Games… Ryan Craggs asks, “What if?”
Palestinian terrorists. The 1976 Games were boycotted by 28 African nations over New Zealand’s participation, and the 1980 and 1984 Games were boycotted by opposing sides of the Cold War, with the American boycott of the 1980 Games held in Moscow, and the Soviet boycott of the 1984 Games in Los Angeles. Los Angeles marked a tipping point for the Olympics—they were the only city to bid on the Games after the massive debt incurred by Montreal for the 1976 Games. Not until 2006 had Montreal paid off its debts from construction costs. While Montreal proved a disaster, Los Angeles tapped into previously unexplored revenue streams from private corporations and combined with the use of pre-existing structures, the city came out with a $200 million profit. Barcelona ran with this momentum in 1992 and shined as host city. The Games of the XXV Olympiad led to vast urban improvements for Barcelona— previously run-down areas were converted into the Olympic Village and Olympic Port, and the construction of ring roads and new investments in infrastructure reduced traffic congestion and improved quality of life. In many ways, Barcelona was already great, but the Olympics allowed the city to rise to greater prominence by polishing itself up and putting on a terrific show. Not to mention, the Games led to an increased presence of Spanish athletics at the highest levels. Nevertheless, Madrid makes a terrific case for serving as host. After a strong showing in its 2012 bid, Madrid has learned from its mistakes and presses on. The projected hosting would bring millions of euros into the city and continue to increase revenues from newly-created infrastructures and programs. For example, the Estadio la Peineta would be expanded from 20.000 seats to 73.000 and would serve as the Olympic Stadium, as well as the new home to Atlético Madrid. Combined with the Bernabéu, Telefónica Arena and various other structures, 77% of the required venues already exist. The Spanish Olympic committee plans for sustainable benefits including 40.000 new trees, and in their own words “cultural programmes, based on our historic and artistic heritage” and the chance to showcase, “Spanish hospitality, a fiesta lifestyle and passion for sport”. All these attributes mean a great deal to a nation which derives 5% of its GDP from tourism and could potentially draw more. Madrid faces stiff competition in hosting the 2016 Games. In the Candidate City evaluation, Madrid ranked second on a 10 point scale, with an overall rating of 8.1, trailing Tokyo’s 8.3, but leading Chicago’s 7.0 and Rio’s 6.4. This is Madrid’s third bid overall, having lost in 1972 and 2012. Tokyo leads according to the Candidate City evaluation, but the city has already hosted the Games in 1964, and Chicago may be Madrid’s strongest competition. A wealth of heavy-hitters have shown up in support of the Windy City’s bid— Michael Phelps, Chicago natives Oprah Winfrey and President Barack Obama, and adopted son and unofficial face of the bid, Michael Jordan. With a great number of athletic structures already in place, and a history of successful events in the United States, Chicago may be the dark horse from third place. Regardless, Madrid remains one of the few European capitals to have never hosted the Games, and has few points working against it. Primarily, the problem of three consecutive Olympic Games being held in European cities—the summer games of 2012 in London and the 2014 winter games of Sochi, Russia—works against Madrid, but this fact has been dismissed by chairwoman of the project, Mercedes Coghen, saying that it’s about the city, not the continent. Conversely, South America has never hosted any Olympic Games, though Rio trails all remaining finalists. Already, the 2016 bid holds great governmental and citizen support; over 92% of madrileños want the Games, and some 25,000 volunteers have already signed up. Already a major player on the world stage, Madrid would be catapulted toward an even greater future by hosting the Olympic Games. To borrow again from As You Like It, as Rosalind proclaims, “Fortune reigns in gifts of the world”. And in this case, no gift would be greater than bringing the 2016 Olympics to the city so dear to so many Spanish hearts.

futuristic EstAdio lA PEinEtA

chicAgo’s 2016 bid

MErcEdEs coghEn

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books
words by peTer moore

When the memorial biographies were on the shelves before Michael was in the ground, many baulked and more bought. So, was it cutting edge, demand-fulfilling publishing for the 21st century or just the next hit as Jackson junkies binged on grief and nostalgia?

Thriller?
shouldn’t the genre of biography be more careful not to risk its reputation for reasoned thought by carting out a book in less time than it takes to walk the Camino de santiago?
I imagine that in Spain, where efficiency is hardly the most prized component of the national skill set, that this sudden splurge of Jacko biographies will seem even more puzzling than it does to those in the UK. And, on this account, I’d say they have reason. English-speaking countries in the western world seem to be transfixed with new information. All the emphasis is on breaking news, hurried tribute albums and rushed biographies, each of which appeals to a sense of anxiousness or false desire for fresh information that can never be quenched. It’s a feature of modern life, and a distinctive part of the capitalist machine which doesn’t always rewards those which do things best, but always rewards those who do things first.

“T

he perceived complexity of a task will expand to fill the time that you allot it.” So goes Cecil Parkinson’s famous dictum. It’s a wise statement that explains why it can take Telefónica up to three weeks to install a telephone line and also excuses, to some extent, my inability to hand a piece of writing to an editor before deadline day. But in short bursts and with enough rewards on offer, we humans are capable of staggering bursts of productivity. Whether it is that deadline day rush, the frantic tidying of a house or that 25-minute sprint from one end of Madrid to the other, we’ve all had our moments. But I can’t imagine any that compare with the literary achievements of a number of crazed authors in a few weeks last summer. They were primed by the sudden death of Michael Jackson. The King of Pop, amid final rehearsals for his comeback tour at the O2 Arena in London, collapsed at his home in Holmby Hills at midday on 25 June and was pronounced dead two hours later at the Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center in Los Angeles. Within a day, authors were meeting publishers and agents, plotting frenzied bids to become to the first to celebrate Jackson’s life with a posthumous biography. On 26 June, John Blake, a publisher based in London, was approached by Emily Herbert, an author who was desperate to do a book on Jackson. By midday he had commissioned Michael Jackson: King of Pop 1958 – 2009 and secured around 30,000 pre-orders.

Blake’s biggest competitor was HarperCollins, who had already drawn up plans for Michael Jackson – Legend, Hero, Icon: A Tribute to the King of Pop; a rather clumsysounding title that was to be completed by the author James Aldis. For HarperCollins’ plans to come together, Aldis was expected to produce around 10,000 words of copy in 48 hours, while the picture editors were given just three days to select 250 images. The HarperCollins publisher for non-fiction, Carole Tomkinson, described the timetable as the tightest in the history of the company. By 13 July she was holding a completed copy of the book triumphantly in her hand. “We’re really proud of it,” she said. “To be competitive we have to be able to move quickly. In a way we reacted like a magazine or a newspaper, putting together something beautiful and enduring – at speed.” It’s a curious story which raises various questions. Is it distasteful to see the publishing industry so keen to exploit the death of a celebrity so quickly? And while the industry might be under assault from the internet, shouldn’t the genre of biography be more careful not to risk its reputation for reasoned thought by carting out a book in less time than it takes to walk the Camino de Santiago? But then maybe we shouldn’t consider these books as anything to do with biography at all. Perhaps they form a new genre of trash literature that is just masquerading as something more sophisticated.

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29

LINgo sTAr
words by susANA Lopez

the Section For leArning SpAniSh

Intermediate Section

Advanced Section

Living in Madrid, Madriz, so good it makes you lisp
El verano ha llegado a su fin y es tiempo de volver a la rutina ¿Nueva casa? ¿Nuevos amigos? ¿Nueva pareja? ¿Nuevo trabajo? Si piensas que alrededor de ti están sucediendo demasiadas cosas al mismo tiempo, no te preocupes. Este mes te ofrecemos algunos consejos para que tu nueva vida en Madrid vaya sobre ruedas. La cuestión es que hemos incluido una serie de verbos sin conjugarlos en la forma “tú” del imperativo. ¡Ese es el reto! 1. (dejar) de pensar que Madrid es sólo el centro de Madrid. (explorar) los diferentes barrios de la ciudad y te sorprenderás. Las tapas más abundantes están generalmente en los bares de barrio. ¡Qué aproveche! (compartir) piso con hispanohablantes. Es la mejor manera de aprender y practicar español. Pero, no (permitir) que ellos piensen que eres su profesor de inglés u otra lengua.

Nueva Y ork
Diario de viajes
fortunadamente al llegar al aeropuerto JFK de Nueva York pude esquivar las largas colas de inmigración y me libré de las interminables preguntas de los oficiales aeroportuarios de las que algunos de mis compatriotas me habían hablado. No es que entrara a los EEUU de forma ilegal, sólo que tuve la suerte de pasar el control de inmigración en Canadá. De cualquier forma ¡ya estaba en Nueva York!. Y sólo tenía cuatro días para disfrutar de todo ello. Fui consciente desde mi llegada de que sería imposible conocer la Gran Manzana en tan poco tiempo así que elegí con delicadeza los lugares que visitaría. Mi primera toma de contacto con la ciudad fue un recorrido en taxi desde el aeropuerto hasta mi hotel, entre la 5ª avenida y la calle 32, muy cerca al Empire State Building. Sorprendentemente todo me resultaba familiar; tenía la sensación de haber estado allí unas cuantas veces. Y es que no se puede negar que todos, incluso los que nunca han estado allí, conocemos Nueva York. A lo largo de mi estancia me encontré a mi misma recreando diferentes lugares en escenas de películas y me sentí como dentro de algunas de ellas. ¡Magia pura! Aquella primera noche, me costó conciliar el sueño. Estaba más emocionada de lo que habría imaginado. La excitación y el cambio horario me hicieron despertarme más temprano de lo habitual y después de un buen desayuno en el que no faltaron varias cookies de tamaño desorbitado, me lancé a la calle con ganas de verlo todo. Decidí empezar a caminar sin rumbo fijo y llegué hasta Times Square, lugar al que volvería esa misma noche. Es impresionante la cantidad de gente que ahí se congrega. Sin embargo, todo el destello de luces me pareció un poco

A

Oh-oh, she’s an alien, she’s a legal alien, she’s a Lingo Star in New York! Advanced learners can stretch their vocabulary here with a Spaniard’s first bite of the Big Apple.
excesivo y no pude evitar que el lugar me recordara al londinense Picadilly Circus. No lejos de allí se encuentran la estación de trenes Grand Central, simplemente deslumbrante, y el edificio Chrysler, de nada más y nada menos que 319 metros de altura. Después de un día de paseo por las zonas más turísticas, salí de cena con mi nueva amiga neoyorquina, Samantha. Anduvimos desde el hotel hasta Pastis, situado en el Meatpacking District, una zona de Nueva York frecuentada por neoyorquinos y que poco tiene que ver con el bullicioso Midtown. La elección del restaurante no fue casual; no en vano, las chicas de Sex and the City han almorzado en él en varias ocasiones. No voy a reconocer que me sentí Carrie Bradshaw en ese lugar, pero me encantó ver que todo el ambiente que se refleja en la serie existe en la realidad, aunque es sólo uno de muchos. Y hablando de Carrie y de su afición a los zapatos que yo misma comparto, sería imposible mencionar Nueva York sin decir que es, sin lugar a dudas, un paraíso para ir de tiendas. Es una ciudad que nunca duerme y una parte importante de su actividad se basa en comprar. Por suerte, la devaluación del dólar hace que los europeos podamos dar rienda suelta a nuestra vena consumista sin ningún cargo de conciencia. Broadway, Central Park, el puente de Brooklyn y el barrio de Chelsea fueron otros de los lugares que pude llegar a conocer en esta breve visita. Ya en el aeropuerto, lista para volver a Madrid, me prometí a mi misma otro viaje a la ciudad de los rascacielos, los perritos calientes callejeros y donde todo el mundo parece ser capaz de hablar español. Ahora más que nunca puedo decir que he caído rendida a los pies de Nueva York.

2.

3. Todavía es posible salir sin gastar mucho dinero. En Septiembre, (buscar) conciertos y otros espectáculos gratuitos. 4. (disfrutar) del último mes de terrazas pero no (olvidarse) la chaqueta si vas a salir de noche. (inscribirse) en un curso de cocina, arte o cata de vinos o (buscar) una actividad deportiva para conocer a gente de aquí.

5.

6. El otoño es la mejor época del año para encontrar una pareja que te dé calor pues ya empieza a refrescar. (perder) la timidez y (declararse) a ese/a chico/a que te vuelve loco/a. 7. (planificar) tus vacaciones de Navidad: encontrarás buenos precios y la vuelta a la rutina no será tan dramática. (divertirse) y (salir), (ser) feliz.

8.

Y escríbenos, cuéntanos tus experiencias en Madrid. ¡Buena suerte y bienvenidos a todos! lingostar@europeanvibe.com
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Deja, explora Comparte, permitas Busca Disfruta, te olvides Inscríbete Pierde, declárate Planifica Sal, diviértete, sé.

A lo largo de mi estancia me encontré a mi misma recreando diferentes lugares en escenas de películas y me sentí como dentro de algunas de ellas. ¡Magia pura!

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soluciones
sepTember ’09

dIscover mAdrId

Hindsight in advance
What they wish they had known about Madrid
will hardly ever find someone who is short of advice or an opinion. In Spain there will always be someone to help you out when everything goes horribly wrong, yet, on the same score, Spaniards might not understand the craving that a northern European has to be left alone. Especially in the cities, Spaniards take an inside out approach to their homes. From the outside they are drab, uninspiring concrete things, many of them covered with childish graffiti, but within the walls these apartments can be ornate, fashionable and expensive. Whatever the look, a Spaniard’s home is always spotless. I once read that the country uses more litres of bleach per head than any other country in the world. By any measure, the Spanish are not a sentimental people. It is almost impossible to find an antique shop in Madrid and – as a rule – old things are generally thrown away instead of preserved. A further characteristic, which perhaps they share with Italians, is that they drive their cars impatiently and at ridiculous speed from one point to another, only to walk so slowly along the streets that you might think that they had suffered some sort of injury. Surely a more balanced approach to each of these activities would result in a much more comfortable existence for everybody. These are some generalized impressions of Spain. It’s a kind, happy country that everyone should visit at least once in their lifetimes and that some people are lucky enough to live in. Like anywhere it can be maddening at times, but when I am angry I remember a snippet of wisdom passed down to me by a well-travelled friend. He said that at first you’ll love everything about a place; then you’ll grow to hate everything about it. At length you’ll realize that some things are good and some things are bad, and that’s when you know that you’ve settled. So, here’s to the Spanish! The world is a much better place for them. peTer moore

words by peTer moore & mATT JohNsoN

“If I had known then what I do now.” – Learning from your experiences and mistakes is half the trick of living your life, but learning from those of others can save you a few hard knocks. In 2004 and 2008 respectively, Englishman Peter and American Matt arrived in Madrid. This is what they learnt.

I

arrived in Madrid some time in the afternoon of 17 November 2004. The date is easily remembered, as it was the day of a drab Spanish victory over the English football team in the Bernabéu. I filtered through the passport control point where a stern-eyed man in a coffee coloured shirt glanced disinterestedly at me. Then I made my way out into the belly of Barajas Airport where my friend Beatriz was waiting for me. She was wearing enormous sunglasses and tapping a cigarette. Two kisses. A hug. Welcome to Spain. What do I wish I had known then? I was a 21 year old Englishman, gliding directionlessly through life with little conception of Spanish culture and no ability at all with the language. I had no more reason to go to Spain that I would have had to go to France, Germany, Italy or anywhere else. But as Spain has probably drawn you in, it drew me in too. It was the promise of a good, uncluttered life: the food, the parties, the climate, the passion and that seductive but entirely unreasonable attitude to almost everything which can only be termed ‘Latin’. New arrivals should be very careful to dismiss stereotypes. Plenty of idiotic idealisms exist about Spain and here is the perfect place to refute some of them. Firstly, not everyone in Spain is talkative (although even the quieter people do seem to enjoy an argument); only a very slender percentage will attend a bullfight more than once or twice in their lifetime; few people in the cities will ever find the necessary 25 minutes for a siesta, and finally – contrary to what we are told in childhood – the Spanish are very hardworking, although it is true that they are not always efficient. The Spanish are far better humoured than people in the UK, who tend to be much more sarcastic and henpecked. Unlike British people, you will rarely find a Spaniard who is disinterested in what you have to tell them and you

ust one short year ago, with heels dragging in protest over the approaching abyss of my post frat house future, I stared into the black hole of cubicles, copiers, and coffee breaks, and decided to take the fork down the path of the unknown. So I did the obvious, took the red pill, and soon found myself tumbling down the Iberian rabbit hole. Life is, after all, an adventure. Let’s do a quick mental recap of year #1 on continent #2 then, shall we? Let’s see. There’s that time I was a click away from transferring a month’s paycheck over to a Nigerian scam ad on a Spanish real estate website… the time we went to Granada for three nights and failed to see the Alhambra…even the taxi ride from the airport my first day the cabbie ripped us off for a quick 50 spot. Yep, it doesn’t take one long to discover, but Madrid can be an unforgiving bastard of a city. I did still manage however, to make it through a whole year here on my own. And not only that, but year #1 just so happened to be one of the best I’ve had yet in my quarter century as a human. So with mission one accomplished, what’s left for me on round two? What can I do to avoid the dreaded sophomore slump? Well, I can’t say I have too many radical changes in store, but I do at least have a few knowledgeable nuggets to offer those coming here for the first time. First of all, know that patience pays off – the Spanish do things on their own time. Take it from a chronically impulsive individual

J

like myself, whether you’re stuck in a flat full of freakish roommates or scrambling to fill a solid schedule of teaching hours, remember that good things do come to those who wait (pardon the cliché). If you get offered classes an hour outside the city, don’t take them. Wait for good classes in the centre. Trust me. An hour train ride and a fifteen minute walk in the winter wind and rain at 8:30 in Torrejón de Ardoz will having you second guessing yourself all the way back to wherever you came from. There is a fine line however. Don’t confuse patience with complacency. Be persistent. Madrileños may appear lazy to some, but they’ve lived here long enough to live with ease. You, on the other hand, have to fight your way into the madrileño teat. Trust me. I spent almost the entirety of my first year in search of a comfy place to hang my hat. A good flat can make a huge difference. If your asbestosinfested flat is out in BFE, your roommates are gothic sociopaths with a Dungeons and Dragons fetish, and your midget-sized mattress plays host to a swarm of genetically evolved bed bugs that nibble your toes while they hang off the end, you may find yourself in a frantic search for the cheapest flight home. Okay, so, not a resolution exactly, but at least I won’t be shattering any self improvement promises into rationalized oblivion with a sledge hammer of excuses. Anyway. Well, good luck to all you green guiris out there, and if you come to find that you just can’t hang with Madrid, then I guess you can be happy in saying that you came and made the effort. mATT JohNsoN

AlhAmbrA

Torrejón de Ardoz

aSpaniard’s home is always spotless. I once read that the country uses more litres of bleach per head than any other country in the world.

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31

food eAt out GuIDe

whAt do you FAncy tonight?
Indian

American

Hard Rock Cafe Madrid offers the genuine American food and we create an authentic dining experience in a rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere: live music and museum.This year in Madrid New Look, New Memo, New Vibe! Tel: 91 436 4340 www.hardrock.com

Hard Rock Cafe Pº de la Castellana, 2
Mexican /Tex-Mex

brand new Indian restaurant in Madrid! exquisite Indian cuisine, in a stunning and central location, right beside Madrid’s famous Plaza Mayor. Terrace now open. Tel: 913 669 099 Mob: 662 503 469

Colón/Serrano

Mister India

Plaza de la Provincia, 3 Sol/Antón Martin Lavapies Plaza de Lavapies, 5

experience our traditional Mexican cuisine in an authentic atmosphere. In a relaxed environment enjoy one of our specialities, the fajitas, mixtas and prawn tacos. With space for large groups, there is fun for everyone! Open Mon-Thurs: 1pm-4pm and 8pm-12pm, Friday to Sunday: 1pm-4pm and 8pm to 1:30 am. Tel: 91 542 3936 www.cantinalaherradura.com.es

brand new Indian restaurant located in the Heart of Madrid. Traditional Punjab dishes served by friendly Indian staff. Call for details of special bollywood dancing shows performed in the restaurant. Open 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight. Tel: 91 523 4570 www.currys.es

La Herradura c/ Montserrat, 32
Argentinian

San Bernardo/Plaza de España

Curry’s Indian Restaurant c/ Silva, 16

Callao

Basilicco Santa Teresa, 12 ( Alonso Martinez). Tel: 91 308 0102 El Gaucho Tetuán, 34 ( Sol). Tel: 91 522 4793 La Vaca Argentina Bailén, 20 ( La Latina). Tel: 91 365 6654

Cuban

Traditional Indian restaurant- offering a variety of rich Indian cuisine infused with the best authentic ingredients. Located in the centre of Madrid and open daily 1-4 pm and 8-12 pm. Set menu available everyday from 1-4 pm for 9.95€. Tel: 91 360 0706 www.gurumadrid.es

Centrally located Argentinian steak house with a rustic, welcoming atmosphere. enjoy traditional Argentinian cuisine such as pizza, pasta, and grilled meat. Variety of vegetarian options available. Open every day ‘til late. Average price 15/20€ per head, lunch menu only 9,50€. Il Piccolino Della Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4391 La Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4691 Il Piccolino Della Farfalla c/ Huertas, 6 Antón Martín La Farfalla c/ Santa María, 17 Antón Martín

Guru Indian Restaurant c/ Echegaray 21

Sol/ Sevilla

Modern/International Cuisine

enjoy a wide variety of traditional Indian cuisine. With over 40 dishes to choose from, you will be spoilt for choice. Open daily 1-4 pm and 8.30-11.30 pm. Set menu and take away food available. www.restaurantetaj.com

Taj
Creative cuisine in a casual, friendly atmosphere. Lunch served Tuesday to Friday, Dinner served Tuesday to Saturday, brunch served on Sundays. Tel: 91 547 4996

c/ Cruz 13 Sol/Sevilla. Tel: 91 522 3595 c/ Marqués De Cubas 6 Banco de España. Tel: 91 531 5059 / 91 521 63 27

Toma c/ Conde Duque, 14
Vegetarian

Plaza de España

bright, colourfully furnished Indian restaurant located in Madrid’s trendy Chueca area. Open since 1985, it is a busy little place and quite reasonably priced at around 18/20€ per head. 3 course lunch or “menu del día” is served from 1.30pm- 4.30pm, dinner from 8.30pm- 12.30am. Open every day. Tel: 91 391 4586

Taj Mahal c/ Belén, 12
A pleasant surprise for non-vegetarians. Rustic, Andalusian tavern-style décor, extensive and surprisingly tasty menu. Located in the heart of the bustling La Latina area. Open every day, 1pm- 4.30pm, 8pm-12.30pm. Tel: 91 365 8982

Chueca/Alonso Martínez

El Estragón Pl. Paja, 10 Madrid de los Austrias
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La Latina

Annapurna Zurbano, 5 ( Alonso Martínez). Tel: 91 319 8716 Arga Isabel la Católica, 9 ( Santo Domingo). Tel: 91 542 2756 Bombay Palace Fernán González, 54 ( Ibiza). Tel: 91 574 1930 Delhi Duque de Osuna, 6 ( Plaza de España). Tel: 91 542 8451 Ganga Alameda, 6 ( Atocha). Tel: 91 369 4273 Moharaj Buenavista, 42 ( Lavapies). Tel: 91 528 5289 / 91 539 2829 Passage to India Ave María, 18 ( Antón Martin). Tel: 91 527 1787 Tandoori Station Jose Ortega y Gasset, 89 ( Lista/Manuel Becerra). Tel: 91 401 2228

sepTember ’09

whAt do you FAncy tonight?
Spanish Traditional Spanish

food eAt out GuIDe

Antiguo Torre Narigües

Traditional Spanish food, in a traditional Spanish atmosphere, with flamenco music and a terrace right in the centre of Madrid. Try the typical “croquetas de jamón” or the house speciality “Don Paco” dish. Open all day from 10am to 2am. Tel: 91 522 9050

La Tía Cebolla c/ de la Cruz, 27

Sol

Taberna La Romana c/ Factor, 8
Japanese

Authentic Spanish cuisine in the center of Madrid with competitive prices. Specialities in tapas and local dishes along with a wide range of wines from“bodegas Casagrande” Come and visit our caves! From 1pm to 4pm and from 8:30pm to 12pm Sundays and Mondays evenings closed. Tel: 91 559 0404 www.tabernalaromanareal.com

Ópera/Sol

enjoy typical Andalusian food, original décor, oriental dance shows and a cultural fusion every day of the year… Not to be missed!! Tel: 90 233 3334 www.medinamayrit.com

Medina Mayrit c/ Atocha, 14

Sol/Tirso de Molina

“Let’s Noodle” Madrid’s very first noodle bar. Fast, healthy and fun food served in the heart of Madrid’s Chueca district, in a pleasant and modern atmosphere. Take-away service available. Open Mon- Sun 1pm-1am. Tel: 91 522 3333

Bazaar San Marcos, 35 ( Chueca). Tel: 91 523 1505 Casa Mingo Paseo de la Florida, 34 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 547 7918 La Cueva del Faisán Espoz y Mina,15 ( Sol). Tel: 676 287 654 A Cuerpo De Rey Hilarión Eslava, 27 ( Moncloa). Tel: 91 549 4338

Circus Noodle Bar c/ Libertad, 13
Chinese

Chueca

Ayala Japón Ayala, 67 ( Lista). Tel: 91 309 5625 Furama Paseo de la Florida, 2 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 548 7658 House Of Ming Pº de la Castellana, 74 ( G Marañón). Tel: 91 561 9827 Tse Yang Pº Castellana, 22 ( Ruben Dario). Tel: 91 431 1888 Zen Central Puigcerdá, 6 ( Serrano). Tel: 91 431 1233

Spanish Tapas
La Casa del Abuelo Victoria, 12 ( Sol). Tel: 91 521 2319 Malaspina Cádiz, 9 ( Sol). Tel: 91 523 4024

sepTember ’09

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dIscover mAdrId
words by heLeN mAcrAe

If the destination of the 2016 Olympics were decided on the strength of going out in the city, Madrid would have it sewn up by the time the IOC delegates chomped on some churros after their first all-night session. Helen Macrae sets a challenge in the form of seven consecutive and expertly tailored madrileño nights out; neither the faint-hearted nor the faint-livered need apply.

madrid Heptathlon
drinking establishments and at least start the night off in a civilised manner, even if you do end up comatose in a gutter later on. 1 Gaudeamus Café (C/ Tribulete 14) is a roof-top bar located in the ruins of a religious school now converted into a university library, where you can relax with your drink whilst admiring views over the barrio. Then back on ground level enjoy a tipple (and pick up your copy of EV!) in the refined art deco surroundings of 2 Café Barbieri (C/Ave María 45). For an authentic madrileño atmosphere (smoky, rowdy, brilliant) head next to 3 Bodegas Lo Máximo (C/San Carlos 6), or for a more intimate setting try 4 Aguardiente (C/Fe 1), a little bar with mismatched furniture perfect for a cosy copa or two. Then starting with a tasty cocktail at Cuban-themed 5 Eucalipto (C/Argumosa 4) bar crawl along “the promenade of Lavapiés” (crawl probably being the operative word at this point) making sure you stop off at the always-packed 6 Bar Automático (C/Argumosa 17) and 7 Bar Revuelta (C/Argumosa 23) to soak up the atmosphere and a few of their cheapas-chips cañas. Shisha pipes and belly dancing shows are the order of the day at 8 Tetería Babilonia (C/Ave María 50) if you want to end the evening on a chilled-out note, otherwise wiggle over to 9 El Juglar (C/Lavapiés 37) for funk and soul until 3am. And for those of you who just don’t know when to stop, 10 Candela (C/Olmo 2) is a magnet for all the waifs and strays of the barrio when everything else shuts, so be prepared for an interesting crowd!
GaudEamus CaFé

H

eptathletes have, without question, one of the toughest jobs in athletics. Never mind your butch shot putters, lean and lanky high jumpers, or thighsas-thick-as-your-waist powerhouse sprinters, heptathletes have to excel at all these events, and more. But whilst I’ll hazard a guess that the vast majority of you reading this won’t be competing in the Olympics anytime soon, I’ve got an alternative challenge for you that would make those teetotal athletes tremble in their expensive trainers. Ladies and gentlemen, it is my great pleasure to introduce The madrid Heptathlon: seven consecutive nights of debauchery in this nation’s fair capital, extensively researched (ahem) and certainly not for the faint-hearted. You’ll need stamina to last into the early hours, speed for efficient bar hopping, strength to cope with fiendishly potent drinks, and balance so you can stand upright at the end of it all. In short, contenders must be at the very peak of physical fitness. Are you ready to take on the challenge? Then let’s begin!

TuEsday – Huertas Whilst the rest of the city is still getting
going on a Tuesday night, Huertas is already hopping, its hundreds of bars filled with tourists/stag parties/ students/good-for-nothings whatever the night of the week. We start our challenge in 11 Mauna Loa (Pl. Santa Ana 13), a Hawaiian bar popular with Spaniards and foreigners alike, lured here by plentiful snacks and potent novelty cocktails to be enjoyed in its confusing maze of underground rooms. For great décor and funky booths to hide away in try 12 Jazz Bar (C/Moratín 35), and along the same musical vibe continue to the famous 13 Café Populart (C/Huertas 22) where the drinks are expensive but worth it for the amazing live music with no cover charge. Then for all the vodka fans the basement lounge at Nordic restaurant 14 Ølsen (C/Prado 15) should suit nicely, with a selection of over 80 varieties to choose from (though trying them all probably isn’t a good idea). If this is all getting a bit sophisticated for you, let’s sprint back up to C/Huertas and jump into one of the many cheesy karaoke places for a sing-along (try 15 Pub Rainbow at n°14 for some hilarious rock hi-jinks with Ozzy Ozbourne look-alikes) before heading to the meat market that is Irish bar 16 O’Connells (C/Espoz y Mina 7) for cheap drinks and late-night fun. Finish up with some sweaty dance action at 17 Sala El Sol (C/Jardines 3), a club that’s been going

mauna LOa

mOnday – Lavapiés bohemian, We’ll kick off with Lavapiés:

controversial, a little rough around the edges yet undeniably fun, this colourful multicultural barrio is buzzing every day of the week. After lining your stomach with fortifying curry, head to a couple of the neighbourhood’s classier
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sKyniGHT Bar

34

sepTember ’09

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let’s get EMADURA and stay central: a few CALLE SEGOVIA focused PUENTE DE SEGOVIA Pº EXTR laps around Sol and the very centre of PARQUE DE LAS VISTILLAS the city without falling into any of the Urraca C. Dña. rip-off tourist traps. Can it be done? You za betcha! Ringdothe bell and catch the lift nal Men C arde up to. C26 Casa de Granada (C/Doctor rnero Juan To Plaza Calle Cortezo 17) Lucena tucked away on the 6th floor with cracking views of Plaza Tirso de PARQUE DE Molina and the surrounding rooftops. LA CORNISA The place could do with a makeover and you’ll have to queue to get a table SAN FRANCISCO on the terrace, but it’s worth it for the EL GRANDE panorama of southern Madrid and the drink prices aren’t bad either. Then it’s SEG OV over to the streets south of Plaza Mayor, IA PARQUE DE where we swiftly sidestep obvious choice CARAMUEL El Botín (oldest restaurant in the world… full of Calle guiris…yawn) and instead head a couple of doors down to 27 Mesón del Champiñon (C/Cava de San Miguel 17) for a quiet drink, a plate of their delicious garlic mushrooms and, best of all, the resident pianist enthusiastically banging Pl. de
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S out the hits on i his keyboard (think Ross and make a beeline for the Skynight since the movida which regularly hosts CIUDAD n DE tt C. RÍOS from Friends,rlaabsolutely classic!). Vigó Give Bar on MUSEO the 13th floor ofROSAS Puerta Hotel gigs UNIVERSITARIA or DJs playing anything from pop O ca an SC S I Pl. Ju the rip-offC. joints onNCPlaza Mayor a miss América (Av. América 41). The bar staff to reggae to electro. Or for something D. RÍOS ROSAS GEOMINERO S San Juan C. A INA IP de la Cruz aren’t friendly and the drinks aren’t a bit more commercial, you can’t stay HOSPITALand dive into tinyFRbar 28 San Roman (C/ FIL N E C. the SA cheap, but really, who cares whenEspronceda in Madrid and not go to 18 Kapital (C/ CLÍNICO Segovia 1) where the walls are decorated IDA D TORRE N DE CANAL ISABEL II this good? Jump in a taxi (we MUSEO Atocha 125), the city’s behemoth of a club views are exclusively with pictures of naked AVE O parTy ViBE @ OranGE CaFé DEL TRAJE SE don’t want to ruin those Jimmy Choos laid out over a whole (count ‘em) seven DE ladies, and you get a hearty tapa with PA CLÍNICA C. Bretón now sweetie) to Fortuny (C/Fortuny de los Herreros floors. Pl. del every Cardenal Cisneros LA CONCEPCIÓN Pl. de drink, although the price varies errera eH 34) where you can witness pijos in their depending on how merry the barman is. CEA BERMÚDEZ GREGORIO MAR Cristo Rey C. CEA BERMÚDEZ . J. d AV Av C. .D CALLE JOSÉ ABASCAL EL natural habitat whilst enjoying another When he whacks up the FILIPINAS OS ISLAS flamenco and AR IC CANAL MUSEO DE L TEATRO DEL CO P pricey beverage. High ceilings, wood TÓ the place is filled to capacity (about 20 AMÉRICA DE Dr. M ALONSO CANO CANAL CA LA panelling and decadence await us at our people?), it’s party central!López it’s back Then Calle S Joaquín María VIC YE E 31 Bar Cock (C/Reina 16), one TO towards Sol for an exquisite mojito or C. Garcíanext stop .R RIA de Trejo AV po three from the friendly folks at little 29 ofParedes Madrid’s classic cocktail bars. Pretend Obis C. García de Paredes Calle you don’t find the name funny, nab some Yambala (C/Coloreros 4), before a dance e drinks mats without the po-faced barmen to all the hits and the biggestCall student Donoso Cortés Ok troops, Monday and Tuesday were Calle Viriato MUSEO Calle a noticing, and make sure Viriato not your it’s night in Madrid and possibly the whole just éaecgentle warm-up: Wednesday’s the SOROLLA eS n ida d Gta. round. Then it’s onwards to five General 32 z Campos star Martíne country in 30Calle Fernández Joy (C/Arenal 11). Fever @ de los Ríos Aven night when things really get rocking! C. Pintor Sorolla MONCLOA pí Let’s jog over to Noviciado and hPlaza Hotel Urban (Carrera de San Jeronimo Ca rto Rup España, a wicked little zone e 34) y Gonzalo you can either head up to the where Pº IGLESIA MONCLOA- memoriesha(amongwhich for MONCLOA Calle Fernando El Católico C. Elo pí CHAMBERí me holds others) roof terrace or stick to the über-hip Glass C. Rafael Calvo C QUEVEDO ARAVACA erto TVs around the Gta. de T of throwing broken Bar on the ground floor (just try not Ru p RE Quevedo º de MO Gta. backstreets,P.quaffing tooEmany capirinhas to break any of their oh-so-stylish sees Rubén Dar OD C. Meléndez Valdés pile Pl. de SE before spilling my guts about flirting through décor). ForANDÉN Chamberí Pºcocktail o Dato one Pl. de . de Eduardin final Flagging? Not on Friday you’re not! Ar a PA Calle Olavide CERO and sex (later to be printed in EV) and the sky, you can’t do better than 33 The Tonight’s the night to see and be seen RUBÉN DARÍO doing a sinful sinpa (running off without in Madrid’s hottest hangouts, so dig Penthouse (Pl. Santa Ana 14), perched Arrando C C. General Olid FEVEr @ JOy . atop Hotel ME Madrid and offering do C Calle paying) in a bar which I won’t mention out your party frocks and high heels Rodríguez San BILBAO oble ro R here for fear of recrimination. eLet’s start om e ez C. Alburqu erqu C. R iérr in 19 Tempo Club (C/Duque de Osuna C. Caracas Gut ito PARQUE o Ben 8), a favourite haunt of mine athanks to iran e DEL OESTE ARGÜELLES m SAN BERNARDO val C ll Alta ando S its lovely bar staff, delicious cocktails C. 25 C alle C. ALBER TO AGU C. Zurbarán and über-funky furnishings. Next, hide ILERA Gta. de Gallego Ruiz Jiménez C. CAR C. Nicasio RANZA yourself away in one of the nooks and Gta. de 20 El Jardín Secreto (C/San Bilbao crannies of C. Manuela Malasañ CALLE BILBAO SAGA Bernadino 22) for a drink or two whilst na STA PALACIO C. Fernando el Santo o inta ALONSO C. Qu ces you admire the weird and wonderful Pl. de u DE LIRIA Se e nS rra Alonso MartínezMARTÍNEZ e C. del Call no Bu décor, which is all for sale and changes C. CULTURAL Divino Pa C. An Le a stor gu C. CONDE DUQUE qu ita C. Apodac TELEFÉRICO every time you visit. If you’re peckish, GÉ eri C. Daoiz Pl. del 42 NO ca VA Dos de Mayo C. Velarde stop off at La Tabernilla del 21 Gato 21 23 40 Amadeus (C/Cristo 2) for a caña and 41 C. de la Pal 37 ma 22 some croquetas de jamón (the best in 35 C. Glorieta de C. Novicia 20 Pl. de la Calle Espíritu Santo Fe Madrid apparently) before skipping P TRIBUNAL MUSEO do San Antonio rna C. Villa de C a DE HISTORIA San nd An de la Florida over to 22 Kabokla (C/San Vicente París oV Be C. Tesoro ta. alle 19 DE MADRID MUSEO rna I eS V TEMPLO 36 Ferrer 55) for your dose of Brazilian rdi NOVICIADO s d el DE CERA no DE DEBOD ué s d a Pl. de I. DE LAS 39 C. Belén culture (and beautiful cachaça rum). 23 arq sú C. Santa Brígid las Salesas C. del P C. M . Je SALESAS REALES C ez TORRE DE Café La Palma (C/Palma 62) is just one C. Farmacia C. Colón MADRID EDIFICIO MUSEO 24 street up and perfect for a relaxed drink ESPAÑA CERRALBO PL. DE Pl. 44 C. Piamonte during the week, Ralthough it’s on Fridays C. Mostenses ESPAÑA ío Lun and Saturdays thatMthis place is really CHUECA C. Gravina a MONUMENTO PLAZA DE C. Almirante C. C. A C ESPAÑA jumping with the best local bands and lo A CERVANTES ugus C. Irú ab t o Figueroa n Ca G C. Prim I. S. ANTONIO S. P da underground DJs. Then it’s back across SATE RAN rso 43 ALEMANES ja de VÍ PRÍNCIPE PÍO PALACIO Plaza España to tip-top Mexican Bar 24 A Ba C. DEL S. O era El Colorado (C/Martín de los Heros 2) PRÍNCIPE PÍO ed C. In SENADO PALACIO DE CENTRO orr fanta SANTO where the barmen are so friendly they’ll s . Torija BUENAVISTA C DOMINGO CASA have you doing tequila shots with them 38 C.Jacometrezo CUESTA DE SA N VIC la MONASTERIO C. R 31 Pl. de JARDINES DE AMÉRICA Bo eina 49 CALLAO o before you leave. Finally, Wednesday Cibeles DE LA C. GRA DE SABATINI ng N VÍA mi ENCARNACIÓN Ab night just wouldn’t be right without GRAN VÍA C. Caballe Do ad MONASTERIO FUENTE ro de G a racia DESCALZAS taking a short hop up C/Princesa and BANCO DE CIBELES 17 C. Jardines Pl. del DE ESPAÑA REALES Carmen ending up in 25 Party Vibe @ Orange Pl. alá Pl. de na e C. Alc S. Martín Café ro C C. Adua arcad (C/Serrano Jover 5), Madrid’s best Oriente Emb CÍRCULO DE PALACIO DE REAL ACADEMIA Pº del international night with themed parties, TEATRO C. Are 34 BELLAS ARTES CIBELES DE BELLAS ARTES nal PLAZA DE REAL contests and scantily-clad students 30 SEVILLA LA ARMERÍA TEATRO ÓPERA Alcalá MUSEO PUERTA C. JARDINES DEL galore. 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stunning views of the city and the busy plaza below. Then shimmy over to Joy once again for 34 Fabulous, a night of elegance with the stylish people of the capital and…well, fabulousness!

saTurday – Chueca/ Malasaña event in Saturday night is the main

Madrid, and nowhere is it bigger than in Malasaña and Chueca. These two barrios have literally hundreds of bars to choose from, but let’s start in one of my favourites, 35 Casa Camacho (C/ San Andrés 4), whose speciality yayos composed of vermouth, gin and casera sell for €1.60 a pop - welcome news after the hammering your wallet took last night. The place is nothing fancy, un bar de toda la vida with a friendly crowd that spills out onto the street, but the really fun part comes when you’ve had a few yayos too many and have to crawl underneath the bar to get to the loo out the back. Afterwards, the choice is yours: head to 36 Areia (C/Hortaleza 92) for chill-out, cocktails and cushion-filled sofa-beds, 37 Olé Lola (C/San Mateo 28) for a modern take on traditional Spain, 38 Mercado de la Reina (C/Reina 16) for all the gin you can guzzle, 39 Picnic (C/Minas 1) for a relaxed retro vibe, 40 Scruffy Murphy’s (C/Palma 47) for a proper Irish pub or 41 Tupperware (C/ Corredera Alta de San Pablo 26) for a dose of indie kitsch. Of course if you’re really feeling the pinch, there’s no better

way to experience nocturnal Madrid then with a bit of botellón action in Plaza Dos de Mayo – just watch out for the police! As a pre-club warm-up, pop into classic movida bar 42 La Vía Láctea (C/ Velarde 18) for a dance to all the hits you’d forgotten about, or if electro is more your cup of tea, pay a visit to chic 43 Demodé (C/Ballesta 7), a bar which used to be a brothel in an area still very much full of brothels. Then for dancing until dawn, well, the city is your oyster! Madrid is so compact and has so many clubs that there’s something within easy reach to suit every budget and musical taste. If you’re a dance music devotee like me, 44 Low Club (C/Princesa 3) has international electro and techno DJs aplenty, 45 Soundsick @ Maxime (Ronda de Toledo 1) will satisfy your nu-rave needs, and Code @ Fabrik (Av. Industria 82) is the perfect place for an out-of-town thrashathon.

TuppErWarE

Casa CamaCHO

sunday – LaofLatina Now A day rest? Not in Madrid!

we’re on the home strait, so let’s dig deep like the true athletes we are, and with that final burst of energy pull an all-dayer in everyone’s favourite barrio on a Sunday, La Latina. After quickly perusing the Rastro and dodging the pickpockets in the morning, let’s enjoy a few pre-prandial vermouths and some tapas in one of the area’s many fine establishments. It doesn’t really matter where, since the main aim is to kick back and soak up the general atmosphere of

the neighbourhood, although the bares de toda la vida (bad fluorescent lighting, absolutely packed, crap all over the floor) are almost always more fun, despite their grotty appearance. Then it’s onto the serious drinking as we do a slow lap of the barrio, making sure to take in trendy 46 Delic (Pl. Paja s/n) and friendly 47 Lamiak (C/Cava Baja 42), as well as a whole host of other bars down Cava Baja and the surrounding backstreets. The area is also a botellón hotspot (especially around Plaza Puerta de Moros) if you want to sip your litre bottle of cerveza in the sunshine, just be careful the police don’t decide to scupper your plans. Then for the truly hardcore among you, it’s up north to Space of Sound @ Macumba (Pl. Estación de Chamartín) for an all-day session (17:00-1:00, or special events 12:00-1:00) with some of the world’s best DJs and a lot of go-go dancers wearing not very much. Sunday worship never felt so good! For folks who can’t be bothered to stumble more than a few hundred yards, 48 People @ Maxime (Ronda de Toledo 1) will provide you with an evening fix of house and electro, then 49 Weekend @ Bash (Pl. Callao 4) starts at midnight and goes on til late, for those who really don’t want the weekend to end! After successfully completing seven nights out on the lash, it’s finally time to give your liver (and your wallet) a welldeserved rest. Unless of course you’ve still got some energy and want to continue the merry-making, in which case Madrid, the true city that never sleeps, will happily oblige. Decathlon anybody?

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madridbabel: Meet Spanish/ International people from 30 different nationalities & exchange languages absolutely FREE every WEDNESDAY evening from 9:30 till late. Join us at Café Madrid (c/Escalinata, s/n - metro Opera). Ask for Fran (madridbabel@ yahoo.es). Website: http://es.groups. yahoo.com/group/madridbabel interCambio de idiomaS gratuito cada domingo a las 7 en el pub The Quiet Man (c/ Valverde, 44 - metro Tribunal). Ven a intercambiar idiomas gratis y a hacer nuevos amigos de todo el mundo en un ambiente acogedor. E-mail: forspanish@hotmail. com Web: http://www.facebook.com/ group.php?gid=19732127016 young non profit - group invite you to share languages,English & Spanish,& interests. Meetings Saturday 10pm. Email: brunettespain@gmail.com

with people who have studied or lived in Australia and are now in Spain. Email australianalumnispain@gmail.com to receive updates on upcoming events. writers’ group Writers with work in progress and a view to publication welcome. Call Charlie on 91 816 2419, or e-mail madridwriters@patchword.com the australian Club in madrid meets 9pm first Friday of each month at the Irish Rover, Avda. De Brasil, 7. Metro Santiago Bernabeu. For more info call Jeff on 669 458 341, or visit website: www.australiaspain.com/gudonya, or email: gudonya@australiaspain.com madrid players, English-language theatrical group. We put on plays, small productions, do in-house readings, improvisations, etc. We meet every Thursday. For info call 91 521 16 98 or 91 564 57 01.

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looking for hiking mountains in madrid? if your are looking for friends to go hiking in the mountains in Madrid come with us.its free. We are an international hiking group- Madrid adventure - 664368418 madrid-adventure@hotmail.com Swimming partner I am looking for a girl who likes going swimming. I usually go to the swimming-pool once per week. Write me if you are interested. carlosmh2007@hotmail.com Snooker: Right on Cue and in the Frame. Fancy a break and a Snooker experience second to none? Cue Mark on 618 784 550 or email break4snooker@yahoo.es madrid hash house harriers: meets every weekend rain, shine or credit crunch. We sprint, run or crawl a trail for about one hour somewhere outside Madrid and returnto a welcoming can or three of beer. Visit www.madridhhh.com or call Paul on 691666147 anyone for skiing?? Hi ski fans!! I’m interested in day trips skiing in the resorts near Madrid. Only problem is I don't have a car/transport. Would be delighted to share petrol expenses though. Maybe we could do a skiing intercambio? I can offer English and German in return for Spanish. kervick@gmx.net anyone for tennis? I’m an English man with a kinda medium level in tennis - anyone fancy a game at the weekends? Or badminton? danielpaulthompson@ gmail.com private and Semi private yoga Classes offered in english Private yoga classes offered to fit your busy schedule and budget. I will come to your office or home and guide you through a one hour energetic yoga practice in English. 30 Euros per person, discounts offered for 2 or more. I have studied yoga for 5 years under several top teachers in the United States and have instructed yoga privately for 2 years. mvonlunen@gmail.com ¡ynwa! madrid redS, the Official Branch of Liverpool FC supporters in Madrid meets for most televised games at the Triskel Tavern, calle San Vicente Ferrer, 3; Metro: Tribunal. More

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the british ladies association would welcome new members of any nationality. Our activities are raising money for charities, monthly meetings with speakers and also visits to places of interest. www.blamadrid.com english reading Circle at the International Institute Library. Monthly meetings to discuss English literature in English. For more information visit www.iie.es or write to biblioteca@iie.es. public Speaking and networking group. International group that meets to improve public speaking skills. 2nd & 4th Thursday each month at 2030 Bar Locandita (C/Fuencarral 148) Contact:standingovationmadrid@yahoo. com or Chris 695 513 466. democrats abroad madrid Info: es.democratsabroad.org australian alumni association of Spain Meet, network and socialize

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information and possible pub venue changes at our website: www.madridreds. com or from: info@madridreds.com ¡You’ll Never Watch Alone! thai boxing club in Madrid welcomes new members of all sexes & levels to learn this amazing sport, get fit, lean & hard. Visit www.muaythaimadrid. com email info@muaythaimadrid.com or call David on 662164877. hockey! Come along and join us at the weekends for mixed non-league field/ grass hockey on water-based astroturf. We play at the Federación Madrileña de Hockey (opposite the Somontes sports club on the Madrid-El Pardo road) Email: los_naranjas@yahoo.com.au for more info. Cricket in madrid Madrid Cricket Club is looking for players of all levels and nationalities. Play in the Spanish league! Contact David (670087637) or Manny (627557572) basketball madrid. Meet new people, get fit and enjoy yourself. People wanted to practice basketball once a week. Active social calander. Contact Rob at 697 345 613 or visit www.basketballpractice.myfree.org. madrid lions rugby Club needs you! All nationalities and player levels welcome. More information from Charlie on 636 067 716 and website www.madridlionsrfc.com youth baseball. Close to Alcala de Henares. We need coaches, players and anyone able to help us develop a youth league in this area. Tel Jose on: 91 879 3068 (eves)

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aerobics club Cheryl 677244074 info@7starfitness.com personal trainer www.davidhughes.es Tel: 662164877 hair and make up artist Shimanda 914457149/699362500 Shimanda11@ hotmail.co.uk uS psychotherapist David Hugener 915942208 mobile hairdresser Sally 918425443

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