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Textile Research Journal

http://trj.sagepub.com Sheerness of Extended Circular Plain Knitted Fabrics


Yoshiaki Azuma, Yo-Ichi Matsumoto, Hideki Saito, Kazuo Shinohara, Kiyoto Wakashima and Hideo Morooka Textile Research Journal 2000; 70; 763 DOI: 10.1177/004051750007000903 The online version of this article can be found at: http://trj.sagepub.com/cgi/content/abstract/70/9/763

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763

Sheerness of Extended Circular Plain Knitted Fabrics


YOSHIAKI AZUMA
Nara

Prefectural Institute of Industrial Technology, Nara, Japan


AND

YO-ICHI MATSUMOTO, HIDEKI SAITO,

KAZUO SHINOHARA University, Ueda, Japan

Faculty of Textile

Science and

Technology,

Shinshu

KIYOTO WAKASHIMA

Department of Living Science, Minatogawa Womens College, Sanda, Japan


HIDEO MOROOKA

Department of Textile and Apparel Science, Nara Womens University, Nara, Japan
ABSTRACT

improve the sheerness of pantyhose to enhance the beauty of womens legs, the design and development of a new yarn and product are proposed. The sheerness of circular plain knitted fabric made from single covered yarns is examined, and the relationships between color, covering level of single covered yarns, and degree of extension of knitted fabrics are discussed. The results show that the appearance and sheerness of pantyhose are greatly influenced by yarn characteristics, degree of extension, and color. Furthermore, sheerness cannot be defined only by light transmittivity. It is necessary to evaluate the * of a uniform color space for a colorless sample and/or chromaL lightness difference Δ * a Δ and Δ * of a uniform color space for a colored sample. b differences, ticity

To

Sheerness is greatly affected by light transmittivity. The evenness of sheerness over the entire leg is influenced by the degree of pantyhose extension on each leg part, and sheerness and sheerness evenness affect appearance. In our previous paper [9], we examined the relationship between the light transmittivity of an extended knitted fabric and the covering level of greater in recent years. In a survey of the sheerness of single covered yams. Pantyhose sheerness increased with pantyhose conducted among women and reported in our increased light transmittivity and the degree of fabric previous paper [8], most Japanese women answered that extension, but light transmittivity cannot be defined only sheerness is one of the most important elements when by the count of single covered yarns. The experimental choosing pantyhose. Younger women are especially ea- results of light transmittivity of colored pantyhose curger to have their legs appear more slender, and so they rently on the market are not in agreement with hand select pantyhose based on the color and count of the evaluations of sheerness in our survey of women. In this paper, we measure the background color yam. Previous papers on handle, performance, and wearing through extended knitted fabrics and consider a method comfort have been published by Fujimoto et al. [ 1, 2], of evaluating sheerness by finding the relationship beHarada et al. [3, 4], Inamura et al. [6], and Sugai et al. tween light transmittivity, the degree of fabric extension, [ 10]. In other studies, Maekawa et al. [7] studied the and the chromaticity of pantyhose. We describe the chroma of the human skin color observed through a thin sheerness of extended knitted fabrics in order to develop fabric and Suzuki [ 11-13] investigated the color of wom- a new product that can enhance the beauty of wornens ens nylon stockings. However, studies of pantyhose legs.
or

stockings have become one of the most products in a womans life. These days, however, pantyhose purchases are down, and although there are many types and kinds of pantyhose, their appearance and sheerness have yet to be satisfactory for womens needs. The aesthetic properties of pantyhose have long been of great concern to women, and even
necessary textile

Pantyhose

sheerness

are rare.

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764

Materials and Methods


COLORLESS SAMPLES

twisted yam. As the yam length in the knitted fabric becomes longer, the cover factor increases.

Single covered yam is produced from a combination of polyurethane yarn (20 denier/3 filaments) as the core Table II lists the characteristics of six pantyhose curstrand and nylon yam (10 denier/5 filaments or 12 de- rently on the market. They are three colors and can be nier/7 filaments) as the covering strand. classified into two types: pure (&dquo;zokki&dquo;) and combined Table I lists the characteristics of four experimental (&dquo;kouhen&dquo;) knitted fabrics. Although the single covered yams and knitted fabrics. The length of the single cov- yam of the combined type has a greater count than the ered yam is determined under a tension of 10 gf. The pure type, the initial thickness of the combined type is sample yam count is calculated from the mean mass, less than the pure type because of the combination with determined when the test length is 1 m, and the test is 15 denier nylon yam. Because each part of the pantyhose leg is a different repeated ten times. The covering level is determined ten times for each sample yam using a twist tester with a original size and is extended by the dimensions of womgauge length of 10 cm. The circular plain knitted fabric ens legs, the degree of fabric extension varies with the used as a testing sample is produced by an automatic type and color of pantyhose. The ratio of extension and hosiery machine (model B, no. 3 needle, 13.8/cm gauge); each part of the leg of the pantyhose are used as the the yam tension is 15 gf and there are two supplying x-axis in the figures. When the ratio of extension R is yams. The fabric sample is 3.5 x 15 cm in a flat shape defined by R Ep/E~, where Ep is the extension of without a load. The initial thickness of the knitted fabric knitted fabric in each section of the leg and EK is that in is also determined twenty times for each sample by using the knee section, R 1 indicates the knee section. R a thickness tester at 50 gf/CM2 pressure, listed in Table I. thus becomes smaller toward the ankle and larger toward Despite the constant count of the single covered yam the thigh. and the constant knitting condition, the knitted fabric samples have different thicknesses and cover factors. TRANSMITTIVITY PROCEDURE This phenomenon may have been caused by differences in the bending stiffness of the yam at the cross point of Figure 1 is a schematic illustration of the experithe loop in the knitted fabric and by the knitted loop mental apparatus. The light source is a white light bulb slanting in the covering direction of the yam against the ( 100 W), and the vertical distance from the light fabric plane due to the snarling tendency of more highly source to the surface of the sample is established at 70
=
=

COLOR SAMPLES

TABLE I. Characteristics of

experimental

yams and knitted fabrics.

FABLE II. Characteristics of pantyhose currently on market.

Pure

zokki type, all

single covered yam.

Combined

kouhen type,

combination of single covered yam and

nylon yam ( 15 denier).

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765
cm.

The measuring part is composed of a pipe made of chloride and an illuminance meter (Tokyo Photoelectric Co., model ANA-FL 1, diameter of light re25 mm). The pipe is opened up to ceiving part a 40 mm hole at a location corresponding to provide the light receiving part. On the test, the surface of the pipe body and the open hole are wrapped and covered with the circular plain knitted fabric and/or the pantyhose. The illuminance meter is fitted into the pipe, and the space from the hole to the light receiving part is filled with a small, short, vinyl chloride pipe. The illumination of the knitted fabric sample is measured twenty times for each sample using the experimental apparatus, and the mean value is calculated. If the illumination with the sample is IE (Ix) and the illumination without the sample is 10 (lx), the light transmittivity IT (%) is given by IT (IJIO) x 100.

TABLE III.

Comparison

of apparatus

pipe

size

to

kg

dimension data.

vinyl

From report of National Institute of Bioscience and Human Tech-

nology.

color space using a color reader (Minolta Co., model 50 mm). In a CR-310, diameter of measuring part uniform color space, lightness is indicated by L* and chromaticity is indicated by a * and b * . The color of the background is either a black fabric on the surface of the pipe or the skin color of a Japanese womans leg. The black color is useful for developing a general evaluation method. The sample fabric covers the surfaces of the pipe body and the leg at the same degree of extension. In order to estimate the effects of the sample fabric, it is necessary to neglect the effect of the background color. If the background color measured with the sample is LE*, aE*, and bE* and the background color measured without the sample is Lo*, ao*, and bo*, the lightness difference 3L*, the chromaticity difference 3a* and 3b*, and the color difference 3Eab* for the sample fabric are defined by
=

In order to

preclude
in
a

testing

occurs

the effects of external darkroom.

light,

all

Results and Discussion


FIGURE 1. Schematic illustration of experimental apparatus for light transmittivity.

Table III is a comparison of the apparatus pipe size to leg dimension data. Human body dimension data for ergonomic design have been published by the National Institute of Bioscience and Human Technology in Japan
the

[5].
CHROMATICITY PROCEDURE
.

The color of the background through the extended knitted fabric is measured by the L*a*b* of the uniform

Figures 2 and 3 show the relationship between the color difference ~Eab* of the skin and the degree of fabric extension. Figure 2 shows that the color difference of skin through the experimental colorless samples decreases with the increased fabric extension and covering level of the single covered yam. On various sections of a womans leg, the color difference decreases gradually from thigh to ankle. Therefore, due to differences in sheerness between the thigh and ankle, pantyhose are less attractive farther down on the leg. Moreover, as shown in Figure 3, the color difference of skin through the pantyhose decreases slightly with an increased ratio of extension. The combined type shows less color dif-

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766 ference than the pure type. In comparing the colors of pantyhose, the color difference decreases in order of black, beige, and white. The color difference between beige and white is very slight as opposed to black, that is, it will be difficult to distinguish the color difference of skin through a colored sample since the color is greatly affected by the background color. Therefore, an evaluation of sheerness using the color difference is useful for the colorless sample but not for the colored sample.

ence

Equation 3 shows that evaluations with the color differmight be suitable for some fabrics that have greater

FIGURE 2. Color difference of skin through extended colorless knitted fabric (Sample code of Table 1: 0 I, 0 II, ð. III, 0 IV).

FIGURE 3. Color difference of skin through extended colored pantyhose. Color/type: A white/pure, A white/combined. 0 black/pure, black/combined, 0 beige/pure, 0 beige/combined.

values of 3L* and smaller values of Aa* and 3b*. Figure 4 shows the relationship between the light transmittivity of the extended fabric and the lightness of the background color through the extended fabric. On all the samples, the lightness LE* of the background color through the sample draws nearer to the lightness Lo* of the background color without the sample because the light transmittivity or the degree of extension increases. The color through the sample is greatly affected by the background color, so we believe that the sheerness of a colorless sample can be evaluated using only lightness. Figures 5a and b show the relationship between light transmittivity and the chromaticity of the background color through the extended knit. On all the samples, the chromaticities aE* and bE* through the knitted fabric draw nearer to the chromaticities ao* and bo* of the background color as the light transmittivity or the degree of extension increases. The chromaticity variation between the colorless samples is very slight, whereas the variation between the colored samples is great. Therefore, we believe the sheerness of colored pantyhose may be evaluated using chromaticity. However, the results from pantyhose have yet to agree with the visual evaluation conducted among women. Figure 6 shows the chromaticity differences 3a* and Ab* on pantyhose of different colors. As the ratio of extension increases, the chromaticity difference 3a* in the direction of the red component tends to decrease and the chromaticity difference Ab* in the direction of the yellow component tends to increase. The chromaticity difference of Ab* varies more than that of 3a * , and both differences Da* and 3b * decrease in the order of black, white, and beige. This phenomenon can be explained by the chromaticity differences in a Japanese womans leg through the beige pantyhose, which become smaller because beige has greater red and yellow components than black and white ones. Moreover, in comparing the pantyhose, the chromaticity difference through a combined (kouhen) type is less than that of the pure (zokki) type. As for the color and type of pantyhose, these results agree with the following results. First, in a survey on the transparency of pantyhose, Japanese women answered that they were not satisfied with the sheerness of white and black colored pantyhose as reported in our previous paper [8]. Second, in visual evaluatings of wearing pantyhose conducted among twenty female students, the combined beige pantyhose was the best one. Therefore, we believe that the sheerness of colored pantyhose can be evaluated by chromaticity differences 3a * and 3b*.

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767

Relationship belightness of background color through extended knit fabric and light transmittivity. Color:
tween

Ftcutt6 4.

e colorless, 0 white, t black. 0 beige, background color: @ skin. L1 black fabric.

Conclusions
We have found that the color of womens legs through pantyhose is greatly influenced by the characteristics of

the yam and knitted fabric, i.e., the draw ratio-6f the core yarn, the count of the covering yarn, the covering level and stiffness of the single covered yam, and the thickness, cover factor, color, and degree of fabric extension.

FIGURE 5. (a, top) Relation-

ship between chromaticity of background color through extended colorless knitted fabric and light transmittivity. Sample . code of Table I: O I, 08 II, AA III, VV IV; background color: 0 skin, 0 black fabric. (b, bottom) Extended colored pantyhose and light transmittivity. Color: AA white, ON black, 08 beige; background color: 0 skin, 0 black fabric.

Downloaded from http://trj.sagepub.com by Ershad Khan on October 7, 2008

768

FIGURE 6. Chromaticity difference of skin through extended colored pantyhose. Color/type: A white/pure, A white/com-

bined, 0 black/pure, 0 black/combined, 0 beige/


pure, 0

beige/combined.

We

clearly recognize that sheerness cannot be defined only by light transmittivity, and it is necessary to evaluate the lightness difference 4L* of a uniform color space for colorless samples and/or the chromaticity differences Aa* and Ab* of
a uniform color space for colored samples. It will be necessary to vary the production conditions of single covered yams and knitted fabrics depending on the color, the degree of extension, and the dimension of the leg section of the pantyhose to be produced and to develop a more accurate definition or description of pantyhose sheerness. Only then will pantyhose more closely approach the desire of women to make their legs appear more slender and beautiful.

4.

Harada, T., and Fusaka, K., Wear Feeling of Pantyhose, Jpn. Res. Assoc. Textile End-uses 23, 135 (1982). 5. Human body dimensions data for ergonomic design, Re-

port of National Institute of Bioscience and Human Technology, vol. 2, p. 96, 1994. 6. Inamura, A., Nakanishi, M., and Niwa, M., Relationship between Wearing Comfort and Physical Properties of Girdles, Jpn. Res. Assoc. Textile End-uses 36, 109 (1995). 7. Maekawa, I., Gunji, T., and Tsuboi, T., How the Human Skin Color is Perceived Through a Thin Fabric, Jpn. Res.
Assoc. Textile End-uses 24, 156 (1983). 8. Matsumoto, Y., and Morooka, H., A Questionnaire Survey on the Transparency of Pantyhose and the Transmittivity of Light on Knitted Fabric, Jpn. Res. Assoc. Textile End-uses

38, 711 (1997).


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

supported by a Grant-in-Aid for COE Research (10CE2003) by the Ministry of Education, Science, Sports and Culture of Japan. We wish to thank
was

This work

9. Matsumoto, Y., Shinohara, K., Takatera, M., Azuma, Y., and Morooka, H., Light Transmittivity of an Extended Circular Plain Knitted Fabric, Textile Res. J. 69, 641-647

( 1999).
10.

Minolta Co., Okamoto Co., and Ms. Mariko Itoh for their

cooperation.
Literature Cited
1.

Sugai, K., and Chinzei, T., The Effects of Clothing Material on Skin Temperature and Wearing Sensation under Changing Ambient Vapor Pressures, Jpn. Res. Assoc. Tex-

Fujimoto, T., The Evaluation of Performance of Womens Pantyhose, Part I: Characteristic of Deformations in the Wearing Test and the Size Effects, Jpn. Res. Assoc. Textile
End-uses

30, 80 (1989).

2. Fujimoto, T., The Evaluation of Performance of Womens

Pantyhose, Part II: Effects of the Tensile Properties on the Subjective Impressions, Jpn. Res. Assoc. Textile End-uses
30, 118 (1989). 3. Harada, T., Comfort of Clothing and Sense Measurement, Jpn. Res. Assoc. Textile End-uses 36, 24 (1995).

tile End-uses 36, 95 (1995). 11. Suzuki, N., Studies on the Color of Womens Nylon Stockings, Part 1: The Color on the Flat Face of the Body, Sci. Rep. Shiga Prefect. Jun. Coll. 14, 78 (1973). 12. Suzuki, N., Studies on the Color of Womens Nylon Stockings, Part 2: The Color Comparison Between Non-wearing State and Wearing State, Sci. Rep. Shiga Prefect. Jun. Coll. 18, 69 (1977). 13. Suzuki, N., Studies on the Color of Womens Nylon Stockings, Part 3: The Effects of the Value of Skin Color on Wearing State, Sci. Rep. Shiga Prefect. Jun. Coll. 19, 67

(1978).
Manuscript received June 28, /999; accepted September 17,
1999.

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