You are on page 1of 12

TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume ::

q. : lnv. KTN :/.


|Collecton Kotoen Note, Antvetp, holos Hugo Mutiltns,
diuvings Annt Kvustn
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :
q. : Dtovnq oj the nshnq oj seoms.
|Annt Kvustn
^ +qC duling.
+ IOiiri +8q+u, +, tiltd Ly HODAi o+o, q.
IOiiri +8q, ;q. Und mtikvuidig, vus ith hiti
gtlundtn, hulltn vii stlLsl uul dtm giosstn CiuLti-
ltldt von Athmim nithl zu tihotn gtvugl. Dti
Jodlt, von dtsstn Kiti nui noth dus lost Ctiit
uLiig gtLlitLtn vui, liug Mulzt, Juniku und Hostn!
Fin uui ltiLhuligt Unuussitthlitht suh ith voi mii
und dit Btinknothtn sluktn noth diin tiltd Ly
HODAi o+o, q.
CA.rT +qooL, +. Unt stulluit dt ltmmt u louini
dtux sttimtns dt unlulons dt mousstlint liunsui-
tnlt Liodtt, oilts diittltmtnl sui lt tois. }usquiti
ttsl lt stul txtmlt dt ttl usugt.
q NOciriT +qq+, ++8++q.
Dr MOOi]Vriurcir-LA\\rs]Vriurcir oo8,
q, +;+;;.
Only u smull numLti ol uiis ol lioustis ol
lht isl milltnnium AD huvt Lttn distovtitd.
Btsidts nds in Noilhtin Fuiot und Ctnliul
Asiu, only u ltv uiis ol lintn lioustis huvt
suivivtd liom Fgyl und Syiiu. A lhoiough
sludy ol lht ulltin-tulling ol loui ol lhtst
lintn guimtnls hus Lttn undtiluktn und it-
litus mudt loi Ltllti undtislunding ol lhtii l.
Jht luntlion und shut ol tuth ulltin ittt
hus Lttn sluditd in oidti lo guit oul hov ont
hil uon lhis lyt ol lioustis, vilh ils thuiut-
ltiislit ltuluits.
Linen trousers
Only u ltv uiis ol lintn lioustis huvt sui-
vivtd liom lht isl milltnnium AD. Stvtiul
moit uiis ol lioustis vtit ioLuLly lound
duiing txtuvulions in lht +qlh und tuily olh
ttnluiy, Lul Lttuust lhtit vus lilllt inlti-
tsl in ltxlilts in gtntiul und non-dttoiultd
ltxlilts in uilitului, lhty muy huvt gol losl.
Jioustis voin Ly lht dtttustd vtit ioLuLly
ulso oltn in ooi tondilion dut lo dtgiudulion
tuustd Ly dttomosilion ol lht toist. Vt
knov liom txtuvulion itoils hov suiiistd
uithutologisls vtit, vhtn lhty tumt utioss
u uii ol lioustis. Jht lioustis in lht Slilung
Mustum KunslPulusl tollttlion in Dusstldoil
uit ioLuLly lht onts lhul Ioiiti dtstiiLts in
Dit CiutLti- und Jtxlillundt von Akhmim-
Punoolis und vtit lound us giuvt luinishing
.

Vilh u sttond nd ol lioustis, Ioiiti tm-


husizts hov sttiul il vus lo nd lhtst liou-
stis voin Ly lht dtttustd.
2
Also Cuytl undti-
lints lht uniqut thuiutlti ol lht distovtiy ol
lioustis in lht giuvt ol u vomun.
3
Ioi lhis sludy, lht ulltin ittts ol
lhitt uiis ol lioustis vtit mtusuitd und
diuvn. Jhty uit liom lht tollttlions ol Kulotn
Nulit, lht Mustt du Louvit und Slilung Mu-
stum KunslPulusl, vhith uit visuully similui in
tul Lul nol in sizt. An ulltml vus ulso mudt lo
ittonsliutl lht uii ol lioustis liom HuluLiyt,
ktl in lht Nulionul Mustum, Dumustus, on
lht Lusis ol hologiuhs vilh stults.
4
All loui uiis uit tonsliutltd vilh lht sumt Lu-
sit ulltin ittts. u luigt ittlunglt lo loim lht
liousti-ltgs, u smullti ittlunglt on lht Lutk,
lvo liiungului instils und u gusstl lo titult lht
tiolth (itstnl in lhitt ol lht loui uiis).
Vhtn ul logtlhti, lhtst ulltin ittts
loim lioustis vilh u vidt vuisl, und itmuik-
uLlt otnings on lht Lutksidt ol lht ltgs ltvtl
vilh lht tull.
In oidti lo ktt lht lioustis in lutt, in
tuth uii, lht lo ol lht ittlungului Lutk ittt
hus Lttn luintd lo lht lionl lo loim u lunntl
lhiough vhith u Ltll tun Lt ul. In lht uti
lionl ull lioustis huvt Ltll loos.
Analyses of the trousers
z.1 Trousers Inv. KTN 1y, Katoen Natie,
Antwerp, dated
4
C yyo to y Ao
S

(y.q% probabiIity) (q. :)
Jhis is lht luigtsl uii ol lioustis vilh u lolul
htighl ol 8; tm, un insidt ltg ltnglh ol tm und
u vuisl tiitumltitntt ol + tm. Il sttms tltui
lhul lhtst lioustis vtit mudt liom it-ustd
luLiits. Jhis tun Lt dtduttd liom lht dititnl
vtuvt dtnsilits (lhitud tounls) ol lht dititnl
ulltin ittts, Lul ulso liom lht itmnunls ol
tolouitd lhituds vovtn in und somt itmnunls
ol slilthts in lht middlt ol lht lionl uil.
All stums uit nishtd vilh u ul ltll
stum (q. :). Jhis mtuns lhul loi tvtiy stum
lvo lints ol slilthts nttd lo Lt txttultd. Jht
tdgts ol lht tul-oul ulltin ittts uit luintd
lo lht insidt ol lht stum, vhith itvtnls liuy-
ing ol lht luLiit. All htms uit nishtd vilh
u iolltd stum. Jht voiking stqutntt loi us-
stmLling lht lioustis tun Lt dtduttd liom lht
sludy ol lht stums.
Anne kwospen and Antolne De Moot*
The pattern-cutting of linen trousers in Late Antiquity
Flaf seam
Rollnq seam
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :q
q. lnv. Al 6c,.
| Mustt du Louvit, Puiis, holos C. Ponttl,
diuvings Annt Kvustn
Vtuving unulysts ol lhtst lioustis vtit dont Ly
Chiis Vtihttktn-Lummtns loi vhith I vuimly lhunk
hti.
; BrAzrTu o++, .
Only lhtn is lht luigt ittlunglt lhul vill
loim lht liousti-ltgs stvn lo lht Lutk uils.
Iiisl lht lo tdgt ol lhis ittlunglt is nishtd
vilh u iolltd stum, Ltloit lht hyoltnust ol
lht liiunglt instils is stvn on, lo tlost lht sidt
stums. Ntxl, u long slil is tul inlo lht ittlunglt
liom lht middlt ol lht lovti sidt u lo uLoul
+ tm Ltlov lht lo tdgt.
Jht slil stums uit lhtn stvn lo lht
Lollom ol lht Lutk ittt, vhtitLy lht li ol
lht gusstl is luttd inlo lht oinl ol lht slil.
Jht tdgts undti lht liiungului instils, vhith
loim lht otning on lht tulvts, vtit nishtd
vilh u iolltd stum.
Big ittlunglt loiming lht ltgs. H. 8; tm,
V. ;q tm (ull mtusuitmtnls in lhis uti uit
vilhoul stum ullovuntt), vui. lintn S-sun.
+q]tm, vtl. lintn S-sun. ++8]tm,
luLLy vtuvt.
6
Smullti ittlungului Lutk ittt. H.
tm + . tm, V. q tm, vui. lintn S-sun.
+qo]tm, vtl. lintn S-sun. +q+]tm,
luLLy vtuvt.
Jiiungului instils. H. tm, V. + tm,
vui. lintn S-sun. +]tm, vtl. lintn S-sun.
+8]tm, luLLy vtuvt, itmuins ol itd vool itk,
stllunds.
Cusstl. H. +tm, V. ++.tm, vui. lintn
S-sun. +]tm, vtl. lintn S-sun. +]tm,
luLLy vtuvt, stllunds.
Stving lhituds. lintn SZ.
z.z Trousers Inv. AF o, Nusee du Louvre,
Paris, dated
4
C yqy to qo Ao
7

(y,q% probabiIity) (q. )
Al isl sighl, lht uii ol lioustis liom lht mu-
stt du Louvit looks likt u smullti toy ol lht
lioustis dtstiiLtd uLovt. Jhis txumlt hus u
tiitumltitntt ol +oq tm, un insidt ltg ltnglh
ol ; tm und u lolul htighl ol ;o tm. Minoi
dititntts uit lhul lht ittlungului Lutk ittt
vus mudt u ol ont luigt ittlunglt on lht ltl
sidt vilh lvo sutiimostd smullti ittlun-
glts stvn on. Jhis tould uguin Lt un inditu-
lion lhul lhtst lioustis muy huvt Lttn mudt
ol it-ustd luLiits.
Jht liiungului sidt ittts uit ulso
smullti lhun lhost ol lht itvious uii ol liou-
stis. Jht lis ol lht liiunglts uit xtd + tm
Ltlov lht lo tdgt ol lht lioustis.
Jht hyoltnusts ol lht liiunglts uit
Iiisl, u slil ol ++ tm is tul in lht ittlun-
gului Lutk ittt und inlo lhis slil lvo sidts
ol lht gusstl uit stvn. SuLstqutnlly, lht lvo
long Lust sidts ol lht liiungului instils uit
stvn on tilhti sidt ol lht Lutk ittt. Jhtn lht
lunntl loi lht Ltll is loimtd Ly luining lht u-
ti tdgt ol lht Lutk ittt . tm (+ + tm stum
ullovuntt) lo lht lionl sidt ol lht luLiit und
xtd vilh vhi slilthts.
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :
q. lnv. ::/.
| Slilung Mustum KunslPulusl, Dusstldoil.
| Pholos Slilung Mustum KunslPulusl, Dusstldoil,
diuvings Annt Kvustn
vus ulso nol tul lo lhis Lutk ittt, und lhul
lhtit is gitul vuiiulion ol lht lhitud tounls in
Lolh ittts, sliongly suggtsls lhul lhtst liou-
stis uguin uit mudt liom it-ustd luLiits, tvtn
moit liktly Lttuust ol lht itd und itd-gittn
dttoiulion on lht Lutk.
In lhis txumlt lht gusstl is nol diu-
mond shutd, Lul liiungului. Jht liiunglt vus
stvn lo lht Lollom ol lht Lutk uil, vhtitLy
lht stum ullovuntt lits uguinsl lht Lutk ittt.
Jhis mtuns lhul smull intisions hud lo Lt mudt
in lht stum ullovuntt, Lttuust lht itsl ol lht
stum ol lht Lutk ittt luy lovuids lht olhti
sidt, on lht lionl ittt ol lht lioustis.
In lhtst unls, il is vtiy nolittuLlt lhul
lht luiloi voiktd vilh lht slitlthing uLilily
ol lht oLliqut, Lius sidt ol lht liiunglts. Jht
hyoltnust is uioximultly q tm long, lht
uLoul tm shoilti lhun lht ltnglh ol lht lionl
uils vhtit lhtst vtit stvn on. Jhis oLliqut
sidt stum lhus nttdtd lo Lt slitlthtd tm on
lht Lius lo l lht lionl uil.
Jht oidti ol voiking und lht nishing
ol lht lioustis uit ulmosl lht sumt us loi lht
lioustis ol KJN, only lhtit is no slil in lhtst
lioustis tul in lht Lutk, Lul lht gusstl vus
stvn diittlly in lht ttnlit ol lht Lollom tdgt
ol lhis Lutk ittt uil. Jht slilthts lhtitloit
(und lhus lht stum ullovuntt) ol lhis stum luy
on lht gusstl, und nol on lht Lutk uil. An-
olhti smull dititntt is lht nishing ol lht lo
tdgt ol lht lionl uil. Jhis lionl uil vus tul
vilh lht lo tdgt ititstnling lht stlvtdgt ol
lht vtuving und lhtitloit no luilhti nishing
ol u htm vus ntttssuiy.
Jhtst lioustis in lht Louvit ulso huvt
un txliu ittt. A slii ol uLoul q tm vidt is
stvn lo lht ttnlit ol lht lionl. Jhis uil is nol
tomltlt und vt tould nol guit oul lht lunt-
lion ol lhis slii.
Big ittlunglt loiming lht ltgs.
H. ;o tm, V. . tm, vui. lintn S-sun.
q]tm, vtl. lintn S-sun. ++q]tm,
luLLy vtuvt.
Smullti ittlungului Lutk ittt. tom-
ostd ol lhitt ittlunglts H. q+. tm + q. tm,
V. qo tm, vui. lintn S-sun. ]tm, vtl.
lintn S-sun. +]tm, luLLy vtuvt.
Jiiungului instils. H. 8. tm, V.
+. tm, vui. lintn S-sun. ]tm, vtl.
lintn S-sun. ++q]tm, luLLy vtuvt.
Cusstl. H. +o tm, V. 8. tm, vui.
lintn S-sun. ]tm, vtl. lintn S-sun. +]tm,
luLLy vtuvt.
Stving lhituds. lintn SZ.
z. Trousers Inv. 1zyyq, NKP, DsseIdorf
(q. )
Jhtst lioustis huvt lht sumt Lusit ulltin-
tulling us lht itvious uiis, Lul uit Littthts
ituthing only lo lht kntts. Jht vuisl mtus-
uits +o+. tm, lht insidt ltg ltnglh ; tm
und lolul ltnglh is tm. Jht mukti ol lhtst
Littthts musl huvt Lttn vtiy lumiliui vilh
lhis lyt ol tul, sintt ont ol lht liiungului
sidt uils is tul diittlly on lht Lutk ittt. In
lhis vuy limt vus suvtd Lttuust lvo iovs
ol slilthts (ul ltll stums) do nol huvt lo Lt
mudt. Jht lutl lhul lht olhti liiungului ittt
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :6
q. Ttousets oj the Notonol Auseum, Domoscus.
| Annt Kvustn
8 Vtuving unulysts ol lhtst lioustis vtit dont Ly
Chiis Vtihttktn-Lummtns loi vhith I vuimly lhunk
hti.
vtl. silk S-sun, Righl. vui und vtl. lintn
S-sun. Stving lhituds. lintn SZ.
z.q Trousers in the NationaI Nuseum Da-
mascus, the HaIabiye trousers (q. )
Jhis is lht smulltsl uii ol lioustis in lhis
sludy. Jht vuisl tiitumltitntt mtusuits
only 8tm, lht insidt ltg is o tm und lht
lolul ltnglh ; tm. Jhtst lioustis ulso uit
tonsliutltd uttoiding lo lht sumt Lusit tul,
txttl loi lht lutk ol u gusstl ul lht tiolth.
Jht liiunglts uit smull und sluil only uLoul
q tm Ltlov lht vuisl. Htit uguin, dititnl
ittts ol tlolh uit ioLuLly Lioughl logtlhti
lo Lt it-ustd in lht uii ol lioustis. In lhtst
lioustis, lhtit is u vtilitul stum in lht lionl ol
lht ltl ltg. A tlost look ul lht nishing ol lht
stums inditults lhul lht liiunglts uit stvn isl
lo lht Lutk ittt, iioi lo lht slilthing ol lht
sidt]Lutk-stums. Iinully, lht insidt-ltg stum
is tlostd. Jhtst liousti-ltgs huvt only u shoil
slil lhul jusl sluils on lht mid-tull. Jhis mtuns
lhul lht stum ol lht lovti ltg is uiliully stvn.
sidt ol lht lionl uil tm. So lht hyoltnust
hud lo Lt slitlthtd ; tm. Jhis itsulls in Lulg-
ing sidt stums.
On lht lionl, lvo Ltll loos uit stvn.
Il is sliiking lhul lht ltl loo is mudt liom u
dititnl multiiul, ioLuLly silk.
Big ittlunglt loiming lht ltgs. H.
tm, V. tm, vui. lintn S-sun. +8]tm,
vtl. lintn S-sun. +;]tm, luLLy vtuvt.
8
Smullti ittlungului Lutk ittt. H. qo
tm + q. tm, V. .; tm, vui. lintn S-sun.
o]tm, vtl. lintn S-sun. +8]tm, luLLy
vtuvt, itd Lunds. vtl-luttd luLLy, txltndtd
luLLy Ly diotd]+tiosstd. ]+. ]tm.
Jiiungului instils. lht ltl liiunglt
loims ont ulltin ittt vilh lht ittlungului
Lutk ittt. Jht iighl liiunglt. H. . tm, V.
+;.; tm, vui. lintn S-sun. +;]tm, vtl.
lintn S-sun. +q+]tm, luLLy vtuvt, itmuins
ol itd vool itk, stllunds.
Jiiungului gusstl. H. 8 tm, V. ++. tm,
JuLLy vtuvt.
Btll loos. Ltl. vui. lintn S-Sun,
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :;
q. 6 o: Wtoppnq oj o cloth, b: ncson on the jtont oj
the vtoppnq, c: ctoss-secton oj o humon qute
to shov the tounJnq neeJeJ to be jotmeJ n
betveen the leqs, J: the pottetn-peces neeJeJ
to cteote o ttouset-leq.
| Annt Kvustn
All ulltin ittts ol lhtst lintn liou-
stis huvt simlt Lusit shuts. ittlunglts,
squuits und iighl-ungltd liiunglts (diugonully-
Listtltd ittlunglts).
.1 Features of the pattern-cutting
of the four pairs of Iinen trousers
Jioustis uit u guimtnl lhul tovtis lht un-
dtiLody und lht ltgs Ly lvo tonnttltd
liousti-ltgs.
All tuily lioustis (lintn und voolltn)
uit mudt vilhoul sidt stums. Vt muy utttl
lhul lhtii oiigin vus liom u viuing us u slt
lovuids tituling lioustis (q. 6o).
Jo mukt lioustis liom u viuing,
u sttond intision is nttdtd in lht middlt ol il,
liom lht Lollom on lo loim lvo stuiultd ltgs
(q. 6b). Jhis intision oltn slos Ltloit ituth-
ing lht lo.
Jht diuvings ol lht ulltin tulling
(q. /) luttd ntxl lo tuth olhti mukt tltui
lhul lht loui uiis ol lintn lioustis huvt u Lig
ittlunglt us u Lusit ulltin ittt vilh un inti-
sion ul ttnlti-lionl lo titult lht liousti-ltgs.
Jht diuvings in lhis uLlitulion uit ull mudt
vilhoul stum ullovuntt. lhul is lht ituson
vhy lhty shov u vidti intision, Lul in itulily
lhis vus jusl u simlt tul in lht luLiit.
Jht hyoltnusts ol lht liiungului instils uit
slitlthtd liom + lo tm. Jhtst smull liou-
stis huvt ulso loui Ltll loos on lht lionl.
Big ittlunglt loiming lht ltgs.
H. o tm, V. q tm + + tm, luLLy vtuvt.
Smullti ittlungului Lutk ittt.
H. tm + tm, V. + tm, luLLy vtuvt.
Jiiungului instils. H. ; tm, V. + tm,
luLLy vtuvt.
Pattern-cutting of trousers
Il is imoilunl lo ktt in mind lhul lht ulltin-
tulling ol lhtst lioustis vus knovn Ly htuil.
In modtin luiloiing, Ltloit tulling lht ul-
ltin ittts oul ol luLiit, lhtst ittts uit isl
diuvn oul und tul oul in uti. Bul vt ussumt
lhul in lht isl milltnnium AD lht ulltin itt-
ts vtit slill diittlly tul liom lht luLiit.
In gtntiul lht ulltin-tulling loi tlolh-
ing in Fgyl vus nol vtll dtvtlotd. Huving
u look ul lht tonsliutlion ol lunits Ltloit
lht ;lh ttnluiy, vt stt lhul lhty vtit vovtn
in simlt ittlungului loims. Ioi lunits vilh
slttvts, lht slttvts vtit inltgiul lo lht vtuvt.
Jht itsull is u simlt J-shutd lunit, vilh no
moit stums lhun sliitlly ntttssuiy. Jht lunits
vtit nol lltd lo lht Lody. Duils und ltuls
vtit nol knovn in tlolhing.
a b c d
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :8
q. / o: Dtovnq oj the pottetn-cuttnq oj ttousets nv.
KTN :/, b: Jtovnq oj the pottetn-cuttnq oj
ttousets musee Ju Louvte nv. Al 6c,, c: Jtov-
nq oj the pottetn-cuttnq oj ttousets Auseum
Kunst Polost D0sselJotj nv. ::/, J: Jtovnq oj
the pottetn-cuttnq oj ttousets oj the Notonol
Auseum, Domoscus.
| Annt Kvustn
q IriLsAii\siAA +qq, +q.
Jht ust ol u gusstl lo loim lht tiolth ol
lioustis tun Ltsl Lt txluintd Ly lht lioustis
ol Mosttvuju Bulku.

Jhtst lioustis huvt lht


mosl simlt ulltin-tulling. Jhty uit tit-
ultd vilh jusl lhitt squuits. lvo Liggti und
ont smullti (q. ,). Jht smullti ont vus ustd
us u gusstl, so il vus loldtd on lht diugonul
und slilthtd Ltlvttn lht lvo ltgs. Diuving
(q. :c) shovs u hull ulltin ol ont lioustis-ltg
ol lht Mosttvuju Bulku lioustis und illusliults
tltuily lhul u iounding is titultd lo loim lht
tiolth. Jht smull gusstls ustd in lht lintn
lioustis ol lhis sludy givt lht sumt itsull.
Jht luntlion ol lht Lig ittlunglt lo
loim lht ltgs und lht smullti ittlunglt und
lht gusstl lo loim lht tiolth is txluintd.
Bul loi vhul ituson vtit lvo liiungului in-
stils ul in lht Lutk? Jo nd un unsvti lo
Jhtn unolhti imoilunl ltuluit ol
lioustis nttds lo Lt loimtd. lht tiolth. Jht
diuving ol lht tioss-sttlion ol lht Lody
(q. 6c) liits lo mukt tltui lhul u iounding
nttds lo Lt loimtd in Ltlvttn lht ltgs. Diuv-
ing (q. 6J) shovs lht tonttl ol u hull ulltin
ittt ol u liousti-ltg. Jhis looks likt lht Lusit
ulltin-tul ol lioustis novuduys.
Ont vuy lo loim lht tiolth is ustd in ull
loui uiis ol lioustis, using lht smullti itt-
lungului Lutk ittt. Jht undtisidts ol lhtst
ittlunglts vtit slilthtd lo lht lionl uil in
suth u vuy lhul lhty tltuily loim lht iounding
nttdtd loi lht tiolth (q. 8).
Bul loi lhitt ol lht loui uiis ol lioustis
vt stt lhul lhis Lutk ittt tiolth vus tom-
Lintd vilh unolhti vuy lo loim lht tiolth,
numtly vilh lht ust ol u gusstl.
a b
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :p
q. 8 Dtovnq oj the jotmeJ bock pott oj the ttousets.
| Annt Kvustn
q. , Dtovnq oj the pottetn-cuttnq oj ttousets
oj Aoscevojo 8olko.
| Annt Kvustn
q. :c Dtovnq oj o quottet oj the ttousets
oj Aoscevojo 8olko.
|Annt Kvustn
+o ScuiAiOw +q;, ;;;8.
++ HAiD 1;8o, q, .
+ IAiir +qqq, q8+.
+ IAiir +qqq, ;+.
+q VA Dri PiicuT]VA Dri SADr]AriTs tl ul. ooq,
q;q. +qC dultd. AD +
Vhtn muking u diuving ol lht ulltin
ittts (q. ::) vilh lhis so-tulltd missing ittt
in Ltlvttn lht lvo lionl ittts, u ittlungului
ittt is titultd, tomuiuLlt lo lht Lusit itt-
lunglt ol lht lintn lioustis. Jhtst Dumtndoil
lioustis huvt ulso u smullti ittlungului Lutk
ittt, Lul no liiungului instils. Jht itsull-
ing (q. :) itlitu ol lhis inltiitlulion ol lht
Dumtndoil lioustis shovs on lht modtl lhul
lhtst lioustis uit tomltltly oul ol iooi-
lion. Jht liousti-ltgs uit ol touist slill vtiy
liny, Lul lht vuisl is vtiy Lig.
So vhtn tituling u uii ol lioustis
sluiling liom u Lig ittlunglt loi lht liousti-
ltgs und u smullti ont ul lht Lutk, il vus ntt-
tssuiy lo iovidt moit sutt on lht his und
ltgs. Bul ol touist no moit txliu vidlh vus
nttdtd on lht vuisl, so lht instilion ol liiun-
glts vus lht logitul solulion.
Ioi lht sukt ol tomltltntss. lht
Dumtndoil lioustis huvt u tuivtd stum ul
ttnlti-lionl lo loim lht lionl-uil ol lht
tiolth. Jhtst lioustis uit dultd lo lht nd
lo qlh ttnluiy,
4
Lul in lhul itsttl ulitudy
lhis qutslion, olhti lioustis ol lht isl mil-
ltnnium vtit txumintd, moit ittistly lht
voolltn lioustis lound in Sthltsvig-Holsltin,
Ctimuny. Jhtst lioustis vtit uLlishtd
Ly SthluLov
0
und Huld.

A itlitu (q. ::) is


mudt ol lht Dumtndoil lioustis moit oi ltss
lht sumt us lht itlitu lhul is itstnltd in
lht Aithuologisthts Lundtsmustum, Sthloss
Colloil, mudt ulti lht sludy und tonstivu-
lion ol lht lioustis in +qqq Ly Iuikt.
2
Jhtst
lioustis huvt un txlitmtly nuiiov lling und
only u vtiy slim modtl lltd lhtst lioustis.
Unloilunultly Iuikt did nol uLlish hti sludy
ol lht ulltin-tulling. Jht only diuvings ol
lht ulltin-tulling ol lht Dumtndoil lioustis
uit lhost ol SthluLov und Huld. SthluLov
und Huld Lustd lhtii sludy on lht lioustis us
lhty vtit tonstivtd
3
in lht mustum in lht
tuily olh ttnluiy. Jht slilthing lhituds ol
lht lioustis vtit iolltn und lht loost ittts
ol lht lioustis vtit xtd logtlhti on u vool-
ltn suoil in lht loim ol lioustis, vhtitLy
u suostd missing hull tiitlt vus ul in lht
ttnlti-lionl Lul intoiittlly.
c d
qe 1q
vasf ) cm
vasf-Foof 111 cm
Crofch-Foof 8o cm
qe 1q
vasf ) cm
vasf-Foof 111 cm
Crofch-Foof 8o cm
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :6o
q. : Replco oj the DomenJotj ttousets vth o holj
ctcle nsetteJ n centte-jtont occotJnq to
the Jtovnq publsheJ by A. HolJ.
| Pholo Annt Kvustn
q. :: Dtovnq oj the pottetn cuttnq oj the DomenJotj
ttousets, ncluJnq o holj ctculot pottetn pece
occotJnq to the Jtovnq publsheJ by A. HolJ.
| Annt Kvustn
q. :: Replco oj the DomenJotj ttousets.
| Pholo Annt Kvustn
+ HAiD +q8o, 8q.
+ CODirwsii]CzAA-SzrwczAi oo8, q;.
Kulotn Nulit und lht mustt du Louvit. Ioi lht
lioustis in lht Nulionul Mustum ol Dumutus,
il is knovn lhul lhty vtit lound in HuluLiyt.
Jht lioustis ol lht Mustum KunslPulusl tol-
lttlion tould Lt lht uii ol lioustis dtstiiLtd
Ly Ioiiti, vhith ht lound in Akhmim-Puno-
olis. Bul loi nont ol lht lioustis dots uny
inloimulion txisl uLoul lht ugt und gtndti ol
lht vtuiti, oi hov lhtst lioustis vtit voin.
In ooqoo, u ltum liom lht Pol-
ish Ctnlti loi Mtdiltiiuntun Aithutology
(Vuisuv Univtisily) ltd Ly V. Codltvski
txtuvultd u Colit ttmtltiy ol lht lh;lh
ttnluiy AD.
6
Jhis ttmtltiy is lotultd ntui lht
monusltiy ol Nuqlun in lht Iuyoum itgion ol
Fgyl. In giuvt CJ ol lht ttmtltiy C+ u mum-
mitd und viutd Lody vus lound. In oo,
u tonliolltd unviuing in u tld luL lollovtd.
Jht dtttustd mult utuitd lo Lt vtuiing
lioustis, und liom lht dtstiilion il tun Lt dt-
duttd lhul lhtst lioustis uit ol lht sumt lyt
dtmonsliult u muth moit udvunttd ulltin-
tulling mtlhod lhun lht lulti dultd lintn
lioustis.
Jht lusl, Lul sliiking ltuluit ol lhtst
lintn lioustis, is lht otnings on lht tulvts.
Jht txlunulion loi lhtst otn stums vus ulso
lound Ly txumining lht lling ol lht itlitus
ol lht voolltn lioustis ol lht Aithuologisthts
Lundtsmustum Sthloss Colloil tollttlion. A
itlitu vus mudt ol lht JhoisLtig lioustis
(inv. IS 8q) ulti lht diuving uLlishtd Ly
Huld.
S
Jiying lo l lhtst lioustis, il utuitd
imossiLlt loi lht modtl lo gtl his ltg inlo lht
lioustis. Jht tiitumltitntt ol his inslt-httl
vus loo Lig. Huld did nol mtnlion lht vtiy im-
oilunl dtluil on lht insidt-ltg stums, numtly
stvtiul smull toids vilh vhith lo tlost lhtst
stums (q. :). In olhti voids lhtst lioustis
ulso huvt un otn stum on lht tulvts.
So uguin lht mtlhod ol ulltin-tulling,
vilh ont Lig ittlungului uil loiming lht
liousti-ltgs, ditlults lhul il is imossiLlt lo
tlost lhis stum on lht tulvts (olhtivist lht
ittlungului should Lt txlitmtly vidt), givtn
lhul lht lioustis uit mudt ol lintn vhith dots
nol slitlth ul ull. Jht lioustis uit otn on lht
tulvts Ly ntttssily.
The tting of the trousers
Unloilunultly no inloimulion suivivtd uLoul
lht iovtnuntt ol lht lioustis Ltlonging lo
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :6:
q. : Detol oj the teplco oj the Kotoen Note ttousets:
closnq oj the slt on the colves vth sttops.
| Pholo Annt Kvustn
q. : Closnq sttops on the nsJe-leq seom oj the
Thotsbetq ttousets lS 68.
| Collttlion Aithuologisthts Lundtsmustum dti Slilung
Sthltsvig-Holsltinistht Lundtsmusttn Sthloss Colloil.
| Pholo Annt Kvustn
+; CODirwsii]CzAA-SzrwczAi oo8, +q.
+8 Non uLlishtd inloimulion oLluintd Ly toiitsond-
tntt vilh BuiLuiu Czuju-Sztvtzuk, loi vhith I vuim-
ly lhunk hti.
+q CODirwsii]CzAA-SzrwczAi oo8, +q.
o Non uLlishtd inloimulion oLluintd Ly toiitsond-
tntt vilh BuiLuiu Czuju-Sztvtzuk, loi vhith I vuim-
ly lhunk hti.
+ CODirwsii]CzAA-SzrwczAi oo8, +q.
modtls huvt lolully dititnl lolul ltnglhs.
Modtl A (q. :6) mtusuits +8 tm, Modtl B
(q. :6) + tm. Bolh modtls inditultd lhul lht
lioustis ltll quilt tomloiluLlt.
Ioi tomuiison. Modtl C (q. :6) hus u
tiolth-lool ltnglh ol 8otm. Looking iimuiily
ul lht sluiling oinl ol lht otning in lht Lutk,
il tun Lt dtduttd lhul lhis tison is loo lull loi
lht lioustis.
Jht itlitu ol lht uii ol lioustis liom lht Mu-
stt du Louvit vus liitd on Ly stvtiul thilditn.
Modtl D (q. :6) is un tltvtn ytui old vilh u
tiolth-lool ltnglh ol 8 tm. Sht is ulitudy u lilllt
loo lull loi lhtst lioustis. Jht tighl ytuis old
modtl F (q. :6) vilh u tiolth-lool ltnglh ol
tm ls lht lioustis Ltllti, Lul ioLuLly lht ti-
lttl tiolth-lool ltnglh vould Lt o tm. Iiom
lhtst mtusuitmtnls tun Lt tontludtd lhul
lhtst lioustis vtit ioLuLly mudt loi u thild.
Jht Littthts ol lht Mustum Kunsl
Pulusl vtit isl liitd on Ly modtl C (q. :/),
lht slim Loy lhul ulso litd on lht Dumtndoil
lioustis. Bul ht tould nol gtl his ltg inlo lht
lioustis, lht tiitumltitntt ol his kntt vus
loo Lig loi lht otning ol lht undtisidt ol lht
liousti-ltg.
I lound unolhti txlitmtly lhin ti-
son, modtl I (q. :/), tiolth-lool ltnglh ol ;;
tm und u lolul ltnglh ol +8 tm. Sht lltd lht
lioustis. Bul on lht olhti hund thilditn, loo,
us lht lintn lioustis liom lht itstnl sludy. B.
Czuju-Sztvtzuk tommtnls.
7
Jht lintn unls
dtmonsliultd un txttlionul dtsign. Jht ltgs
vtit nuiiovtd lovuids lht Lollom und hud
vtilitul vtnls ul lht Lutk ol lht unklts, lht
Lollom tdgts litd logtlhti vilh slius. Jhis
ullovtd lht unl ltg lo Lt lltd lo lht tull und
tomloiluLly stl inlo high Lools. Jhtit vtit
Ltll tuiiitis stvn lo lht vuislLund, holding u
ltulhti Ltll. Jht ltulhti Ltll, tm vidt, did
nol suivivt in ils tnliitly.
8
Jht dtstiilion in lht uilitlt

luilhti
givts un inltitsling imugt ol lht tlolhts voin
logtlhti vilh lht lioustis. Ioi his Luiiul lht
dtttustd vus ditsstd in lhitt long-slttvtd
shoil lintn lunits ituthing Ltlov lht hi. Jht
lintn oulti lunit hus ulitd voolltn dttoiu-
lion on lht slttvts, lht shouldtis, lht nttk
otning und on lht vtilitul slil in lht lionl.
Jht slttvts uit stuiultly vovtn uils, stvn
lo lht Lody ol lht lunit.
20
On his lttl lht dtttustd voit long
luLLy vovtn lintn slotkings vilh ytllov ltlltd
voolltn solts und ovti lhul ltulhti Lools.
2
Iiom itluits ol dtluils ol lht lioustis
und inloimulion oLluintd liom Czuju-Sztvt-
zuk lht vuy in vhith lht slius on lht unklts
vtit litd tould Lt ittonsliutltd. lht slius
isl tioss ul lht Lutk und uit lhtn ulltd,
logtlhti vilh lht tointis]tdgts ol lht Lutk
slils, lo lht lionl. On lht lionl lht slius tioss
uguin ovti lht luLiit ol lht liousti-ltg Ltloit
going uguin lo lht Lutk lo Lt litd jusl uLovt
unklt htighl (q. :).
Jo gtl un idtu ol vho tould huvt voin
lht lintn lioustis sluditd htit, itlitus vtit
mudt ol lht loui txumlts. Jht itlitus uit
mudt in u sult ntv lintn luLiit (luLLy
vtuvt, vui +; lhituds]tm, vtl + lhituds]
tm). Jhis txtiimtnl tunnol givt un unsvti
uLoul lht gtndti oi ugt ol lht vtuiti, nol
tvtn lht lolul ltnglh ol lht tison. Bul il givts
un imugt uLoul lht idtul insidt-ltg ltnglh
(tiolth-lool), und u suggtslion ol lht ugt lhul
multhts lhul ltnglh novuduys.
Jhis Lttomts tltui ulitudy vilh lht
lling ol lht itlitu ol lht lioustis liom Ku-
lotn Nulit. Bolh modtls on lht itluits huvt
u tiolth-lool ltnglh ol ;+ tm. Jht lioustis l
lhtm vtll. Jht otning ol lht Lutk-slil jusl
sluils ul lht hollov ol lhtii kntts. Ytl lhtst
qe adulf
vasf 8q cm
vasf-Foof 1o1 cm
Crofch-Foof )1 cm
qe 11
vasf q cm
vasf-Foof q cm
Crofch-Foof 8 cm
qe 1
vasf cm
vasf-Foof cm
Crofch-Foof )1 cm
qe 8
vasf q cm
vasf-Foof ) cm
Crofch-Foof cm
qe 1q
vasf ) cm
vasf-Foof 111 cm
Crofch-Foof 8o cm
qe adulf
vasf 8q cm
vasf-Foof 1o1 cm
Crofch-Foof )1 cm
qe 11
vasf q cm
vasf-Foof q cm
Crofch-Foof 8 cm
qe 1
vasf cm
vasf-Foof cm
Crofch-Foof )1 cm
qe 8
vasf q cm
vasf-Foof ) cm
Crofch-Foof cm
qe 1q
vasf ) cm
vasf-Foof 111 cm
Crofch-Foof 8o cm
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :6:
q. :6 AoJel A,8,C: ttnq oj the teplco oj the Kotoen
Note ttousets, moJel D, L: ttnq oj the teplco
oj the Louvte ttousets.
| Pholos Annt Kvustn
NOciriT +qq+, ++q.
Dr MOOi]Vriurcir-LA\\rs]Vriurcir oo8,
q, +;+;;.
q BrAzrTu o++, .
Vt lhunk Muik vun Sliydontk und Mulhitu Boudin
liom lht Royul Inslilult loi Culluiul Htiilugt in Bius-
stls.
Ytuis BP. +qo +]- (KIA-q;)
8. % ioLuLilily. AD o
q.q % ioLuLilily. AD ;o
Jht iudiotuiLon duling ol Louvit AI
oq
24
shovtd lht lolloving itsulls.
Ytuis BP. +q; +] (KIA-qqq)
8. % ioLuLilily. AD o+
q.q % ioLuLilily. AD qqo
Auitnlly lhtit vus nol muth dititntt in
lht duling ol lht lvo uiis. Il vt ussumt lhul
Lolh vtit mudt ul lht sumt limt vt tun tultu-
lult lhtii mtun duling.
2S
Jht itsull is us lollovs.
Ytuis BP. +q; +]o
8. % ioLuLilily. AD qoqo
q.q % ioLuLilily. AD q
Jhis shovs u tlosti duling loi lht lioustis, lht
dititntt (q.q % ioLuLilily) Ltlvttn lht
tuilitsl und lultsl dult vus 8o ytuis, vhtitus il
vus q ytuis loi lht individuul lioustis.
modtls C (q. :/) und modtl H (q. :/), vilh
tiolth-lool ltnglh ol 8 tm und 8 tm l lhtst
lioustis vtll.
Notktil
22
suggtsltd lhul lht smull uii
ol lioustis liom HuluLiyt vould l u itstnl-
duy six ytuis old. Modtl I, ytuis old und u
tiolth-lool ltnglh ol tm (q. :/), sttms
ulitudy u Lil loo lull loi lht itlitu ol lhtst
lioustis. Modtl } is loui ytuis old und hus u
tiolth-lool ltnglh ol q tm (q. :/). Ioi hti lht
lioustis tumt iighl dovn lo lht unklt.
Radiocarbon dating of two pairs
of linen trousers
A iudiotuiLon duling ol lvo uiis ol lintn
lioustis liom Kulotn Nulit (inv. KJN +;)
und lht Mustt du Louvit (inv. AI oq) vus
tiloimtd.
Jht iudiotuiLon duling ol KJN +;
23

vus us lollovs.
qe 1q
vasf ) cm
vasf-Foof 111 cm
Crofch-Foof 8o cm
qe )
vasf 8 cm
vasf-Foof 8o cm
Crofch-Foof 8 cm
qe 1
vasf cm
vasf-Foof 1o cm
Crofch-Foof )) cm
qe
vasf 1 cm
vasf-Foof ): cm
Crofch-Foof cm
qe 11
vasf q cm
vasf-Foof q cm
Crofch-Foof 8 cm
qe q
vasf q8 cm
vasf-Foof o cm
Crofch-Foof q cm
qe )
vasf 8 cm
vasf-Foof 8o cm
Crofch-Foof 8 cm
qe 1
vasf cm
vasf-Foof 1o cm
Crofch-Foof )) cm
qe
vasf 1 cm
vasf-Foof ): cm
Crofch-Foof cm
qe 11
vasf q cm
vasf-Foof q cm
Crofch-Foof 8 cm
qe q
vasf q8 cm
vasf-Foof o cm
Crofch-Foof q cm
TuL rA11LrN-cu11Nc or LNLN 1rousLrs N LA1L N1pu1x Iiems or cosiume :6
q. :/ AoJel C, l, C, H: ttnq oj the teplco oj the
Auseum KunstPolost ttousets, moJel l, j: ttnq
oj the teplco oj the \+n ttousets.
| Photos Anne Kvospen
luiloi oi tullti tondtnlly luttd oi omilltd
stums dttnding on lht luLiits lhul vtit
uvuiluLlt.
Conclusion
Jht sludy ol lht ulltin-tulling ol lht loui
uiis ol lintn lioustis duling liom lht lh;lh
ttnluiits shovs lhul lhty vtit tonsliutltd
uttoiding lo lht sumt iintilt. Jioustis loi
thilditn huvt lht sumt Lusit tul us lioustis
loi udulls. Al isl sighl il sttms lo us, vilh un
imugt in mind ol modtin luiloitd lioustis, u
sttiul und uilituluily tomltx tul. Bul sluil-
ing liom lht limiltd knovltdgt ol luiloiing
lhul vus tuiitnl in Fgyl in lht Lult Anliquily,
il utuis lhul lht tul ol lht lioustis is vtiy
logitully ul logtlhti, only using vtiy simlt
loims us ulltin ittts.
PitsumuLly ull loui uiis vtit mudt
liom ittytltd luLiits. Jhis tould Lt un indi-
tulion lhul lhty vtit homtmudt insltud ol
mudt Ly u sttiuliztd voiksho. Jht Lusit
iintilt Lthind lht luiloiing ol lhtst liou-
stis vus ttiluinly vtll-knovn, sintt lht
I vould likt lo lhunk Mi. und Mis. Huls ol Kulotn Nulit loi lht
ooilunily lo voik on lhis sludy. I vould likt lo lhunk my tol-
ltuguts loi lhtii suoil und my iolound lhunks go lo Chiis
Vtihttktn-Lummtns vho tntouiugtd mt und uttomunitd
mt lo lht dititnl mustums lo unulyst lht lioustis. I vould
likt lo lhunk Dominiqut Btnuztlh ol Mustt du Louvit,
BuiLuiu Jil und Aint Ltoold ol Slilung Mustum KunslPulusl,
und Di. Ingiid UlLiithl und CuLiitlt Zink ol Aithuologisthts
Lundtsmustum dti Slilung Sthltsvig-Holsltinistht Lundts-
musttn Sthloss Colloil loi lht ossiLilily lo huvt u tlost
look ul lht lioustis ol lhtii tollttlions. I vish ulso lo txitss
my lhunks lo Piol. Vodzimitiz Codltvski, Polish Ctnlti
ol Mtdiltiiuntun Aithutology ol Vuisuv Univtisily und
BuiLuiu Czuju-Sztvtzuk ol Vilunov Pulutt Mustum und lht
Polish Ctnlti ol Mtdiltiiuntun Aithutology loi lhtii vuluuLlt
inloimulion on lht lioustis ol Nuqlun.