GreenTOOLS Handbook FINAL-Textile Products

Green Tools Handbook for Textile Industries
A guide on main product and system certifications focused on ecological improvement of textile products
This publication has been developed in the frame of project TexEASTile Sustainable Innovation for Textile in South East Europe that has been co-funded by South East Europe, Transnational
Cooperation Programme
Green Tools Handbook
Summary
Introduction ....................................................................................................................................................... 5 Product Certifications ........................................................................................................................................ 8 1 2 3 4 Ecolabel ................................................................................................................................................. 8 GOTS .................................................................................................................................................... 13 OekoTex Standard 100 ...................................................................................................................... 19 Organic Exchange ................................................................................................................................ 23
System Certifications ....................................................................................................................................... 25 5 6 7 8 9 10 Environmental Management System (EMS)........................................................................................ 25 EMAS.................................................................................................................................................... 33 ISO 14001............................................................................................................................................. 38 ISO 9001 Quality Management Systems (QMS) .................................................................................. 51 Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 ................................................................................................................... 58 The Social Accountability 8000 (SA8000) ........................................................................................ 61
Product Certifications Comparison.................................................................................................................. 68 11 12 13 14 OekoTex Standard 100 vs Ecolabel................................................................................................ 68 Oeko-Tex Standard 100 vs GOTS ................................................................................................... 72 GOTS vs Ecolabel ............................................................................................................................. 76 Organic Exchange vs GOTS .............................................................................................................. 79
System Certifications Comparison................................................................................................................... 81 15 16 17 ISO 14001 vs EMAS vs Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 ........................................................................... 81 SA8000 vs Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 .............................................................................................. 84 ISO 14001 vs ISO 9001 ..................................................................................................................... 87
Introduction
The competitiveness of enterprises gets through to the response to the needs of customers (buyers, consumers, users) and improving the quality of products and services offered.
Textile industry is one of the most developing and one of the most represented branch of industry and economy in general, both in Europe and in the world and has large impact for employment, particularly women (according statistics about 75% of employees in textile industry are women). Recent trends in development of industries in the European Union are moving towards on development of production processes, improvement of product quality and environmental protection in the different processes and final products. Taking into account open market and new products which are not controlled and do not meet certain standards, particularly in terms of safety to human health, new set of standards is introduced as well as certification needed to make product (including textile products) safe, environmentally acceptable with high quality standards. Specifically, for textile products several certifications has been introduced to guarantee the accuracy, safety and green components in the process of product ion and processing. More and more textile companies are producing and offering eco-sustainable products. From the best-known names that have developed lines of recycled / recyclable clothing to small subcontracting enterprises the key word is "to produce environmentally friendly", but who must buy, be it a private or public entity, not always may be aware of the specifications of the various certifications and then guiding the choices is often not a simple undertaking. This brief guide to the most popular ecological product and system certifications in the textile industry aims to try to clarify the main differences of the various standards and identify strengths and weaknesses and then provide help to those who wish to deepen the technical aspects and operational implementation. Among the ecological system certifications the ISO 14001 standard is certainly the most widely used, followed by EMAS Regulation (Regulation (EC) n. 761/2001) the EU eco-management and audit system. Both are voluntary certifications to businesses and organizations, public or private, who want to be responsible for assessing and improving their environmental performance.
It is not a certification specific to the textile sector, nor a product mark, that is they do not give guarantees for a green product but ensure that the certificate holder complies with mandatory environmental requirements and sets goals for improving its environmental performance (e.g. reduction of waste production, reduction of water consumption, etc.). As for the ecological product labels the most popular one in the textile industry is definitely the Oeko-Tex Standard 100, certified companies in the world are about 7.000, and many more products. This is a private standard that certifies the compatibility of textiles with the intended use from the standpoint of human health. To achieve this certification used chemicals must be selected and laboratory tests on the finished product must be performed. This mark is not a guarantee of an ecological product, either during production or end of life, but states that the product is free from harmful substances while using; the standard also includes some product performance requirements (e.g. colour fastness). Another product label, specifically textile, which is having some success is the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) that is the certification of textile products made from organically grown natural fibers. This certification begins with recognizing the growing environmental, social and health problems associated with the production and use of conventional cotton. To obtain such certification supplies must be certified from organic natural fibers, and we must select and limit the chemicals used during the finishing of the fabric. Another ecological label product is the Community Ecolabel Mark (Regulation EC n.1980/2000), not primarily in textiles but also applicable to textiles, for which there are specific requirements. It is a European mark for a product that guarantees environmentally friendly characteristics throughout its life cycle (raw materials, production, end of life). In addition to the ecological requirements are also needed some performance requirements. The so-called environmental product declarations are a little known but deserving of attention. It is a tool designed to improve environmental communication between producers on one side (business to business) and other distributors and consumers (business to consumers). These statements report the environmental impacts of a product throughout its life cycle (cradle to grave, that is from the production of raw materials to end of life). For environmental impacts, for example, it refers to the emission of carbon dioxide or the production of waste of a functional unit, which may be a square meter of fabric or a clothes. This information, validated by an independent third party, may be useful to purchasers to compare two similar products and choose the one with the lowest environmental impact. The problem today is that such statements are not widely used, although it is a very interesting tool to make purchasing decisions on the environmental awareness based on objective data and validated. Green Tools Handbook
To finish the list of the ecological product labels, certainly not exhaustive, finally we should mention the lines of recycled / recyclable clothing (mostly run, as we said earlier, from private brand). The terms (and related pictograms) "recycled material" or "recyclable material" placed on clothing or any other product are voluntary self-declared environmental claims and do not have a verification by an independent third party, but you can request it and an evidence should there be in that case. This handbook will cover the main product certifications (Ecolabel, Oeko-Tex Standard 100, GOTS, Organic Exchange) and the main system certifications (ISO 14001, ISO 9001, Oeko-Tex Standard 1000, SA 8000). Next will be compared with each other, respectively, the requirements expressed by the standard for product certification and those expressed by the standard for system certification. In conclusion we can say that, before applying for, or purchasing on the basis of, any ecological label you should have clear understanding of the needs of the public or private entity on whose behalf you buy a product. Besides possibly you should deepen the specification of any certification; only in this way you will be engaged in a focused and conscious choice
Product Certifications
1 Ecolabel
The European Ecolabel was launched in 1992 as a voluntary scheme, in order to help businesses to market environment-friendly products and services. The label was designed as a special part of the action plan on Sustainable Consumption and Production and Sustainable Industrial Policy adopted by the Commission on 16 July 2008. The current criteria were put into effect by the Commission Decision of 9 July, 2009. These criteria are valid until 10 July, 2013. Meantime, the Joint Research Centre of the EU is working on the revision and further criteria development. Products and services awarded the Ecolabel carry the flower logo, allowing consumers - including public and private purchasers - to identify them easily. he EU Ecolabel covers a wide range of products and services, with further groups being continuously added. Product groups include cleaning products, appliances, paper products, textile and home and garden products, lubricants and services such as tourist accommodation. Ecolabel then, is an environmental label that can be requested on a voluntary basis. In order to obtain the Ecolabel, organisations must match the selection criteria defined by the European Commission on the basis of the life-cycle analysis of a product or service, starting from raw material extraction in the pre-production stage, through the production, distribution and disposal.
The logo on textile products indicates that any harmful substances (on water or air) have been limited during the production, while the textile still fulfils various quality criteria, i.e. the products do not loose colour or shrink more than a conventional textile product. In addition, the risks of allergic reactions are also reduced.
1.1 Key Criteria

The EU Ecolabel is part of a broader action plan on Sustainable Consumption and Production and Sustainable Industrial Policy adopted by the Commission on 16 July 2008. Concerning the textile products, there are Commission Decisions that set the criteria to be followed:
Commission Decision 2009/567/EC, sets up the criteria for: Textile clothing and accessories: clothing and accessories consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres; Interior textiles: textile products for interior use consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres. Wall and floor coverings are excluded;
Fibres, yarn and fabrics: intended for use in textile clothing and accessories or interior textiles. Full Criteria Commission Decision No. 2009/598/EC sets up the criteria for Bed mattresses Commission Decision No. 2009/563/EC sets the criteria for Footwear
In relevant directive, each product group criteria specifies the compliance declarations, testing and verification required. The criteria may require the applicant to get also independent verification of test results. Concerning the textiles, main criteria refer to:
Textile fibres criteria Processes and chemicals criteria Fitness for use criteria
The Ecolabel logo on textile products shows: A limited use of substances harmful to the environment Limited substances harmful to health Reduced water and air pollution Textile shrink resistance during washing and drying Colour resistance to perspiration, washing, wet and dry rubbing and light exposure No mineral fibres, glass fibres, metal fibres, carbon fibres and other inorganic fibres have been used There are limitations (of residues) of certain pesticides There are No lead based pigments used There is a certain limitation to the use of zinc and copper No heavy metals and formaldehyde are present No azo dyes, no dyes classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic for reproduction, no plasticizers or solvents have been used, etc.
1.2 Quality Assurance System

The compliance with Ecolabel is ensured through certain measurements taken: The Requirements to achieve certification (i.e. the chain of custody, the site visits, other metrics) Audit and surveillance requirements, as well as The Duration of certification, time to achieve certification, reviewing, retesting, etc.
1.3 Steps to be followed

A simple process is followed for certification; a company that wants to certify one product or more should:

Select the product group to be certified Building up the dossier
A dossier should contain information of the product to be certified (materials, way of manufacturing or producing, etc.), along with technical information like a general Description of the Company, the Description of the manufacturing processes, the Recording of chemicals used, the - List of suppliers, or - Additional Supporting Information, like o other certifications, etc. Moreover, Results of the product(s) tests provided by a certified laboratory are to be included in the dossier and then submitted to the Competent Body.
Product testing The laboratory has to be certified under ISO 17025 or equivalent. For more information on the test method contact the Competent Body. It has to be accepted by the Competent Body. The applicant must communicate all the required information on the laboratory to the CB. Application approval Ecological and performance criteria for your products will be assessed, according to the documentation sent. A visit of your manufacturing facility may be organised in order to ensure compliance with the criteria.
After receiving all the documents, the Competent Body will assess the products environmental performance and their compliance with the criteria according to relevant EU Decision (depending on the product) and product assessment/ criteria.
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Contract holders must be ready at any time for the Competent Body to inspect the production site and test the products. The award of the Ecolabel applies the continuous compliance with the requirements. The contract holder must keep a journal on the test results and the relevant documentation. If the data on the tests suggest that the products are not meeting the criteria any more, the contract holder must inform the Competent Body which will make the appropriate decisions (e.g. a demand for additional measurements, suspension of the label etc). Evaluation of Application is made by auditors of National Competent Body. If Application is approved, then Auditing of the company by national auditors, follows.
Awarding of the EU Ecolabel
The Competent Body will send an official certificate. Competent Bodies are independent and impartial organisations, responsible for implementing the EU Ecolabel scheme at national level. They are members of the EUEB responsible for drafting Ecolabel criteria, assessing applications and awarding the Ecolabel to companies that apply. They play a central role in the operation of the EU Ecolabel scheme and should be the first point of contact for any questions. The Use the logo (EU flower) on the products is only permitted after the certificate is awarded.
1.4 Other Important Information
Validity Certification award lasts for 3 years, and/or until revision of the criteria, and the manufacturer is obliged: To follow all the relevant criteria To test products and keep records proving that all specifications are met at least annually To inform the certification body on any change on suppliers or in manufacturing process To pay relevant fees to the national certification body
Technical Support and Consulting can be given by the National Competent Body.
Certification bodies In each EU country there is established the National Competent Body, which is responsible for the management and award for Eco-label Scheme. Only accredited Independent Textile Institutes, recognised by the National Competent Body may perform the testing needed and also consult the company.
Costs for the certification
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Application fee (depending also on size of the company) - paid with application. Application fee covers the costs of processing the application, and may vary from 200 to 1.200 Euros. Reductions can be at a max. of 600 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries; and at a max. of 350 for micro-enterprises. A 20% reduction for companies registered under EMAS or certified under ISO 14001 is also provisioned. Maintenance fees paid annually. Annual fee for the use of the Ecolabel equals to a max of 1.500. A fee of 750 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries and a max of 350 for micro-enterprises is provisioned. Preparation costs include Costs for testing of the products (depending on the product) and Costs for the consulting (when necessary)
Benefits
The labelling of products with the EU flower, may also offer several benefits: Marketing tool Competitive advantage for Green Procurement Respect to the consumers and environment Sustainability of enterprise Corporate Social Responsibility for SMEs and Purchasers
Communication tools are made available to enhance the value of the label:
Ecolabelled products are promoted at international fairs News on the EU Ecolabel and awarded companies are published and sent Ecolabelled products are listed online in the Green Store Marketing guides and brochures are also available in the Ecolabel website.
Important!
Eco-Label products can be found everywhere in the market the EU-flower on the packaging or on the label of the product is the characteristic. Eco-label certification for products refers to the product itself and not to the company! It must not be false considered that all the products of the company are labelled. Official website: http://www.ecolabel.eu
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2 GOTS
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a global, textile-specific standard, for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. Its first version was launched in early 2006, and its current second version (2.0) was published in June, 2008. Since 2010 there is a current revision by the member organisations of the International Working Group ongoing, but no 3.0 version is defined yet. Only textile products that contain a minimum of 70% organic fibres can become certified according to GOTS. All chemical inputs s.a. dyestuffs and auxiliaries used must meet certain environmental and toxicological criteria and also the choice of accessories is limited under ecological aspects. A functional waste water treatment plant is mandatory for any wet-processing unit involved and all processors must comply with social minimum criteria.
2.1 Key Criteria

The standard defines requirements for fibre products, yarns, fabrics and clothes and covers the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibre products in order to ensure organic status of textiles. This standard focuses on compulsory criteria only. First of all, the fibres should be natural and have to be grown in an organic way, based on the production standards such as those laid down in the EEC organic Regulation 834/2007, or USDA NOP regulations. The key criteria for fibre production can be identified as: Organic certification of fibres on basis of recognised international or national standards (e.g. EEC 834/2007, USDA NOP) Certification of fibres from conversion period is possible if the applicable farming standard permits such certification A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade organic must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade made with organic must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres
Secondly , the entire production process should be taken into account. This means that every processing step must meet certain criteria. The criteria for the production process are laid down in the Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS). They encompass every process-step of textile production (spinning, weaving, washing, etc) and for every step it is laid down which processing aids may (not) be used, in order to gain as much environmental profit as possible. All chemical inputs, dyestuffs and auxiliaries used must meet certain environmental and toxicological criteria and also the choice of accessories is limited under ecological aspects.
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A functional waste water treatment plant is mandatory for any wet-processing unit involved and all processors must comply with social minimum criteria. Key criteria for processing and manufacturing include: At all stages through the processing organic fibre products must be separated from conventional fibre products and must to be clearly identified All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching) Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted, any polyester must be post-consumer recycled from 2014 onwards) All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimise waste and discharges Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant. Packaging material must not contain PVC. From 1st January 2014 onwards any paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be postconsumer recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC Technical quality parameters must be met (s.a. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness and shrinkage values) Raw materials, intermediates, final textile products as well as accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues Minimum social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organisation (ILO) must be met by all processors
The two labels grades
There are two specific subdivisions of the label (two grades), depending on the minimal percentage of organic components in the product. 100 - 95% organic can contain a maximum of 5% of other, non-organic fibres 94 - 70% organic - can contain a maximum of 30% of other, non-organic fibres
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The non-organic fibres may also include defined regenerated and synthetic fibres, with some further restrictions (this can reach a maximum of 25% in case of socks, leggings and sportswear and 10% for all other textile products). It is prohibited to use organic and non-organic fibres of the same type (e.g. cotton) in one product.

Generally a company participating in the GOTS certification scheme must work in compliance with all criteria of the standard. GOTS relies on a dual system to check compliance with the relevant criteria consisting of on-site auditing and residue testing. Certification of the entire textile supply chain
Fibre producers (farmers) must be certified according to a recognised international or national organic farming standard that is accepted in the country where the final product will be sold Certifiers of fibre producers must be internationally recognised according to ISO 65 and/or IFOAM accreditation. They also must be accredited to certify according to the applicable fibre standard Operators from post-harvest handling up to garment making and traders have to undergo an onsite annual inspection cycle and must hold a valid GOTS operational certificate applicable for the production / trade of the textiles to be certified
Certifiers of processors, manufacturers and traders must be internationally accredited according to ISO 65 and must hold a GOTS accreditation in accord ance with the rules as defined in the Approval Procedure and Requirements for Certification Bodies
Residue Testing

Stringent orientation values for unwanted residues are defined in the standard Licensed operators must undergo residue testing according to a risk assessment of contamination Additional samples may be taken by auditors and sent for analysis to ISO 17025 accredited labs

Companies who wish to be certified should contact the appropriate GOTS approved certification body (available in Switzerland, Italy, Germany, the Netherlands, France, Turkey, Argentina, US, Great Britain - http://www.global-standard.org/certification/approved-certification-bodies.html). Generally a company participating in the GOTS certification scheme must work in compliance with all criteria of the standard. To apply for a GOTS certification, an organisation should follow the next steps:
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Identify the requirements of the standard GOTS; Establish activities in conformity with GOTS; Describe and implement the activities in conformity with GOTS; Contact a Certification Body and send:

your APPLICATION for certification your Organic Handling and Production Plan. The plan will describe your recordkeeping, sources of organic product and inputs, environmental management practices, and the methods you use to prevent contamination with any prohibited inputs.
A trained organic INSPECTOR, familiar with your type of operation, will contact you to schedule your annual inspection visit. The inspector will examine each component of the operation to verify your Plan is an accurate description of organic standards compliance and will summarize his or her findings during an interview. The following list describes the main elements that will be inspected in case a company wishes to be certified. Additional elements may also be used if the certifier sees that necessary:
Review of book keeping in order to verify flow of GOTS goods (input/output reconciliation, mass balance calculation and trace back lots and shipments). This is a key aspect of the inspection of any operation that sells/trades GOTS goods. Assessment of the processing and storage system through of visits to the applicable facilities Assessment of the separation and identification system and identification of areas of risk to organic integrity Inspection of the chemical inputs (dyes and auxiliaries) and accessories used and assessment of their compliance with the applicable criteria of the GOTS Inspection of the waste water (pre-)treatment system of wet processors and assessment of its performance. Check on social minimum criteria (possible sources of information: interview with management, confidential interviews with workers, personnel documents, physical on-site inspection, unions/stakeholders) Verification of the operator's risk assessment of contamination and residue testing policy potentially including sample drawing for residue testing either as random sampling or in case of suspicion of contamination or non-compliance.
Certification Body conducts a REVIEW of your application and of the inspectors report to evaluate compliance with the organic standards. A summary is presented to the Application Review Committee that makes the final certification decision.
There are strong limitations for products wiht a GOTS certification regarding the use of chemicals, especially dyestuffs, prints and auxiliary agents. More than 2000 dyestuffs and 2850 auxiliaries have received the approval of the certifiers and therefore are allowed to be used in GOTS-certified production. The GOTS Certification Bodies keep on evaluting and monitoring the relevant chemical products. GOTS-conform chemical inputs must have available a material safety data sheet (MSDS)
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prepared according to one of the following norms/directives and containing appropriate information with regard to GOTS criteria in order to be used as accepted basic tool for evaluation: ANSI Z400.1-2004 ISO 11014-1 1907/2006EEC (Reach) 2001/58/EEC GHS (Global Harmonised System)
In addition, certifiers may conduct further information collection or laboratory tests before certifying a chemical input as GOTS-conform. After a successful audit, a certificate of registration to GOTS will be issued.
Validity depends on the type of the label and the contract with the Certification Body organic certification is valid for one year at which time it is necessary to renew and the above process is repeated.
Certification bodies ONLY Certification Bodies recognized by the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard.
There are certain limitations regarding the accredited scope for which a certifier may offer GOTS certification. Certifiers of textile supply chain operators may be accredited to the following scopes: Certification of mechanical textile processing and manufacturing operations and their products (scope 1) Certification of wet processing and finishing operations and their products (scope 2) Certification of trading operations and related products (scope 3) Release of positive lists of chemical inputs (s.a. dyes and auxiliary agents) to the chemical industry (scope 4).
Costs Preparation costs : the cost for implementing, developing and maintaining the system Certification cost: certification fees are determined by the type of operation, the products produced, and/or services provided.
Benefits
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Besides being a positive ethical choice, ecological production and sustainable sourcing can lead to some important benefits for the business. These include:
Make sure that the advantages of the natural fibres during the production of a garment are maintained All production steps, from fibre cultivation to the finished garment must correspond to the quality guidelines controlled by independent testing organisations Helping to comply with legislation by reducing the environmental impact Reducing costs for materials, equipment and running expenses (particularly when whole-life or 'cradle to grave' costs are considered); Increasing revenue by enhancing the company image for environmentally aware customers or end users; Forming an important part of the environmental management system, is helping towards certification of this system; Attracting investors who work to environmental or ethical principles efficiently.
Important!
Commercial activity is a crucial link in the textile value chain and the participation of traders, exporters, importers is necessary regarding the GOTS certification process. Those importers that sell GOTS certified final products that are received ready packed and labelled directly to the end consumer without having any trade function (such as selling to other retailers) are exempt from this certification requirement.
Official website: International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard: http://www.globalstandard.org/
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3 OekoTex Standard 100

The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a green label for textile products, a uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production. The use of the label depends on successful laboratory tests on all elements of the product The criteria that define the use of the Oeko-Tex label are globally uniform, making the certification an easy, standardised and transparent procedure for all potential actors The validity of the certificate is one year, with the option of further annual renewal The label works with a modular concept, therefore products in various phases of the textile process chain can be certified
3.1 Key Criteria

Tests for harmful substances comprise substances which are prohibited or regulated by law, chemicals which are known to be harmful to health, and parameters which are included as a precautionary measure to safeguard health are included in the Oeko-Tex Scheme, in order to reassure the Human Ecology: safety for skin-friendly clothing and other textiles. The internationally binding test catalogue according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is based on scientifically proven parameters and is revised annually in line with the latest legislation and research. It includes: substances which are prohibited by law, such as carcinogenic dyestuffs substances which are regulated by law, such as formaldehyde, softeners, heavy metals or pentachlorophenol substances which according to current knowledge are harmful to health, but which are not yet regulated or prohibited by law, such as pesticides, allergy-inducing dyestuffs or tin-organic compounds parameters such as colourfastness and a skin-friendly pH-value, which are precautionary measures to safeguard consumers health
There are 4 different classes for certification: delicate items worn next to the skin such as baby clothes, underwear or lingerie, for example, meet tougher standards than textiles that have little or no contact with the skin such as fabrics used for decorating. Product class I, refers to textiles and textile toys for babies and children up to the age of three, e.g. underwear, romper suits, bed linen, bedding, soft toys etc. Product class II, refers to textiles which, when used as intended, have a large part of their surface in direct contact with the skin, e.g. underwear, bed linen, terry goods, shirts, blouses etc.
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Product class III refers to textiles which, when used as intended, do not come into contact with the skin, or only have a small part of their surface in contact with the skin, e.g. jackets, coats, interlining materials etc. Product class IV refers to furnishing materials for decorative purposes such as table linen and curtains, but also textile wall and floor coverings etc.
Some of these laboratory test parameters are simulation test sin order to decide whether harmful elements can infiltrate the human body through the skin or by inhalation. In order to raise the credibility of the testing system and the value of the label, the test institutes themselves are trained and tested as well: There are regular training and knowledge exchange exercise for the test institutes There are specific round-robin tests between the test institutes Test institutes have to follow a strict testing system defined in the internal guide book Test insitutes are audited by the representatives of the International Oeko-Tex Association

The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a voluntary system, but participating companies shall make a legally binding statement regarding the materials sent for testing (that they are identical to the textiles produced). This legal statement adds to the quality guarantees of the testing system. In the framework of this contract the applicant must sign a Declaration of Conformity, and accept the Quality Assurance of the Oeko-Tex Scheme and agree in any control testing that the Association or the Member Institutes perform. If new techniques or elements are introduced into the manufacturing, these should also have the relevant certificates and the textile produced with the application of these new elements or techniques must be re-tested. If the textile products no longer comply with the relevant criteria, the manufacturer shall make immediate steps in order to improve the production quality. After non-compliance on several occasions, the withdrawal of the existing Oeko-Tex certificate may be completely withdrawn. In addition, the International Oeko-Tex Association carries out test inspections on at least 15% of all issued certificates, including unannounced random samples at participating companies and also products bought on the open market. Since testing methods are designed for Oeko-Tex, all the tests carried out may be functioned exclusively by the authorised, independent textile research and testing institutes and only members of the Oeko-Tex Association can perform testing.
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External Auditors
Besides the regular product controls, there are two independent auditors making unannounced site inspections on behalf of the International Oeko-Tex Association. These audits may confirm if the production conditions satisfy the requirements of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 or if further steps should be taken in order to optimise the existing quality assurance system.

For a product or group of products to be certified, the company must fill the Application form to Certification Body with details of the product and production and select representative sample material from your production/purchasing that will be tested. Then an individual test plan by OekoTex Institute will be draw up and the testing of the materials. Then a Declaration of Conformity by the applicant is signed, as a commitment of the applicant to respect Quality rules followed by the Oeko-Tex Certification Scheme. Schematically this procedure:
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Validity
Certification award lasts for 1 year, always under obligation of the manufacturer: to accept OekoTex Regulations (quality assurance, copyright of label, etc.) to inform OekoTex Association on any changes on product or suppliers
Certification bodies
There is only one Institute member of the OekoTex Association per country . The Oeko-Tex Institute can also provide Technical Support to the company, while Oeko-Tex Association can provide marketing advices and support for companies that have certified products.
Costs
One year fee for certificate per product group, and testing costs depending on necessary testing are included in the cost for certification. The modular principle adopted by the Oeko-Tex Scheme permits lower certification costs when requirements are fulfilled by suppliers and already certified materials. The company visit and auditing cost is upon first certification and then every 3 years.
Benefits
The scheme Market Direction, globally uniform testing and certification system recognised for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production by large distributors worldwide: Test label provides an important decision-making tool when purchasing textiles. - For Purchasers: OekoTex Association performs testing on products in the market - For companies: checking of suppliers with spot-testing on B2B buyers OekoTex certified products may be found everywhere in the market you can recognise products by the Confidence in Textiles flower label on the packaging or on the product.
Important!
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification for products refers to the product itself and not to the company. Official website: http://www.oeko-tex.com/
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4 Organic Exchange1
OE, Organic Exchange was founded in the US (Texas), but by now it has grown to being a successful non-profit organisation with a global multi-stakeholder approach to developing markets in the textile value chain. It has a European office (Upperwood, Freshford, Co. Kilkenny, Ireland). The organisation issues two standards, OE 100 Standard for organic cotton products and OE Blended Standard for mixed, blended textile products containing organic cotton elements. These standards are voluntary; companies are encouraged to use it as a way to ensure that they are receiving what they have requested from their suppliers, and to prove the integrity of their own claims.
4.1 OE 100 Standard

The OE 100 Standard is a standard for tracking and documenting the purchase, handling and use of 100% certified organic cotton fibre in yarns, fabrics and finished goods. The OE 100 Standard helps ensure that consumers of organic cotton products can be confident that the product contains 100% certified organically farmed ingredients. It also provides a tool for companies to use in confirming that the products they are buying or selling contain the percentage of organic cotton that they have stated.
Labeling to the OE 100 Standard If the company chooses to label the finished products as containing organic cotton, it may make reference to the OE Standard and use
Made with 100% organically grown cotton only for products that contain 100% organic cotton Made with organically grown cotton, for products that contain 95% or more organic cotton, as long as the remaining content is not cotton.
Requirements The OE 100 Standard requires companies to:
Use cotton that was purchased from a farmer who is a certified organic producer Have 100% organic cotton content in their products exclusive of sewing thread and nontextile accessories. Note that there is an allowance of up to 5% noncotton content. Handle the cotton in a manner that maintains its identity until it is spun into yarn
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Based on http://organicexchange.org/oecms/
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Handle and label the yarns, fabrics and finished goods containing organic cotton so that the purchase and use of certified organic cotton can be verified at each step of the manufacturing process Maintain records that confirm that all required steps have been taken Have an independent, licensed third party certify compliance with the OE 100 Standard for every party involved in producing the product
4.2 OE Blended Standard

The OE Blended Standard was developed in order to allow the labelling of goods made of mixed, blended components where there is a minimum 5% of organic cotton used. OE Blended Standard is applied for tracking and documenting the purchase, handling, and use of certified organically farmed cotton fibre in blended yarns, fabrics, and finished goods.
Labelling to the OE Blended Standard If the company chooses to label the finished products as containing a blend, it should use the Made with X% organically grown cotton language, and make reference to the OE Blended Standard. X must represent the final percentage of organic cotton by weight in the finished product.
Requirements Companies shall: Use cotton that was purchased from a farmer who is a certified organic producer Have a minimum of 5% organic cotton content in their products (exclusive of sewing thread and nontextile accessories) Handle the cotton in a manner that maintains its identity until it is blended into yarn Handle and label the yarns, fabrics, and finished goods containing organic cotton so that the purchase and use of certified organic cotton can be verified at each step of the manufacturing process Maintain records that confirm that all required steps have been taken Have an independent, licensed third party certify compliance with the OE Blended Standard for every party involved in producing the product
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System Certifications
5 Environmental Management System (EMS)
An Environmental Management System (EMS) is a set of processes and practices that enable an organisation to reduce its environmental impacts and improve operating efficiency. Increasingly, organisations are seeking to implement accredited schemes through which their environmental credentials can be evidenced. Traditionally, in order to assess the impact of their activities, products and services on the environment, many organisations have undertaken internal environmental performance reviews or audits. However, while such efforts can produce positive results, they are now increasing perceived as insufficient to provide the assurances that performance not only meets, but will continue to satisfy legal and strategic requirements. Hence, companies are now looking to adopt more structured environmental impact assessment mechanisms by implementing Environmental Management Systems (EMS) that are nationally or internationally recognised through accreditation by an independent third party. Today, two market-leading systems have emerged: ISO 14001 (an internationally accepted standard) and EMAS (a robust, European option). Each has unique advantages and weaknesses, and organisations must carefully consider their own objectives when assessing the suitability of candidate schemes.
EMAS
The second most prevalent standard designed to improve an organisations environmental performance is the EU Eco-Management and Audit Scheme or EMAS. Its aim is to recognise and reward organisations that go beyond minimum legal compliance and continuously improve their environmental performance. Although similar in many ways to the ISO 14001 standard, with a plan-do-check-review cycle , with several stages either similar in name or function, they are somewhat different in their overall focus. One of the main areas where EMAS differs from the ISO 14001 standard is its emphasis on continual environmental performance evaluation and legal compliance. Unlike the ISO 14001, which has relatively little requirements in terms of reporting to external stakeholders, EMAS requires participants to publish an environmental statement annually that reports their environmental performance, the accuracy and reliability of which has been independently verified by a third party environmental assessor. Through such rigorous assessments, organisations undertaking EMAS can demonstrate their environmental credentials. Due to the added time and increased costs associated with implementing EMAS and its requirement to produce an annual publicly available environmental statement, many organisations, particularly smaller ones, are deterred from this option. Furthermore, due to the
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reporting emphasis and strict legislative compliance requirement, organisations are sometimes concerned about potential de-registration if they fail to report on time or are in minor breach of standards. Finally, one of the major limitations of EMAS is that it is focused on the European Union and the European Economic Area and thus the absence of worldwide recognition is perceived as an issue.
ISO 14001
Currently, the most widely established and well known EMS verification standard is the International Standard 14001. Based on the methodology of plan -do-check-review, this standard provides a framework that enables an organisation to develop and implement an environmental policy that satisfies legal requirements and efficiently addresses environmental impacts. Developed to apply to all types and sizes of organisations, ISO 14001s overall aim is to help participants achieve higher environmental standards, comply with environmental legislation, reduce costs and improve general operational efficiency. It owes its current popularity as an EMS verification standard to a number of factors. Firstly, due to its widespread adoption and international recognition, it can lead to global business opportunities as well as enhanced national and regional prospects. Secondly, with a relatively simple implementation profile, its human resource requirements are viewed as low, making it a cost effective solution. Finally, ISO 14001 has an independent accreditation process which has vastly improved its credibility and reassures organisations and interested parties alike. However, ISO 14001 is not without its critics. One of its most frequently criticised features is that it does not require an organisation to regularly measure its actual environmental performance. While a guideline exists (ISO 14031), there is no requirement for an organisation to continually improve its environmental performance to maintain accreditation. Thus, the standard is based on the assumption that an effective EMS will automatically lead to continual environmental performance improvement. Another criticism is the absence of any need to make environmental performance information available publicly. While an organisation is required to publish its environmental policy (including a mandatory obligation to adhere to all environmental legislation), there is no requirement to demonstrate how compliance is achieved.
So, which one?
ISO 14001 remains that most dominant standard for EMS accreditation. From a European perspective, organisations generally tend to opt for accreditation with ISO 14001 over EMAS. One of the deciding factors to consider before pursuing accreditation with either standard is why you are undertaking it, as the advantages of ISO 14001 and EMAS remain similar but distinctive in their own right. For an organisation willing to implement an EMS with maximum environmental credibility, which has the capacity to produce annual reports in line with environmental legal compliance and is focused on European recognition, the EMAS standard is arguably the best Green Tools Handbook
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option. However, for those organisations more concerned with gaining compliance with a more standardised accreditation while indicating greater environmental credentials to a wider international market as opposed to a European market, then perhaps the ISO 14001 option would be better. Accreditation Systems Summary
ISO 14001 Scope Aims, Principles Worldwide Establishing and continuously improving environmental management systems EMAS EU Continuous improvement in operational environmental characteristics and performance of environmental management system All companies Higher cost on reporting system (Environmental Statement) Emphasise EMS and continuous environmental improvement Yes 3 Years Better environmental performance
Eligibility Implementation Costs
Industry, services and commerce Lower cost (Only reporting Environmental policy) Emphasise EMS itself and assume good EMS means good environment No 3 Years Focus on system rather than environment
Emphasis
Pubblication Recertification Frequency Environmental Benefits
Stages of Standardized EMS
Environmental management systems are very much related to quality management systems. They are mechanisms that provide for a systematic and cyclical process of continual improvement. The cycle itself begins with planning for a desired outcome (i.e. improved environmental performance), implementing that plan, checking to see if the plan is working and finally correcting and improving the plan based on observations from the checking process. Logically then, if the original outcome desired remains the same, a system of this nature will, by default, generate increments of progress that continually move toward the desired outcome. In order for an company to achieve environmental performance through a management loop as mentioned above, it will need to define responsibilities for environmental management, deploy resources to ensure that action is taken on environmental issues, train staff to become aware of Green Tools Handbook
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their environmental responsibilities, monitor environmental performance and audit and review the system of achieving environmental improvement. The basis of all of this activity is an organizational commitment to continual environmental improvement and an environmental policy. A typical EMS incorporates the following elements. Baseline Environmental Review/Audit Planning

Environmental Policy Environmental Objectives and Targets EM Programme
Implementation and Operation

Operational Control Emergency Preparedness and Response Responsibility Allocation Awareness and Training Communications
Check and Review

Checks and Corrective Action On-going Review & Improvement
Documentation
A summary of each of these components is below. Baseline Environmental Review/Audit At the beginning of an EMS development, a baseline environmental review/audit is normally conducted in order to determine the status of the organizations environmental performance. This audit should feature a comprehensive identification and evaluation of all the significant environmental impacts and issues relevant to the organizations activities at the site. The size of an audit and time scale for conducting it will largely be determined by the size of the organization and complexity of the site activities. The issues to be considered in an audit will vary depending on the organization, its location and the type of activities conducted. Typical factors normally considered in an environmental audit include the following:
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Compliance with environmental legislative requirements Air emissions (sources, composition, quantity, abatement systems, emission points, receiving environment) Water emissions (sources, composition, quantity, abatement systems, disposal routes, receiving environment) Waste generation, collection and disposal Waste management /minimization practices Energy usage and conservation measures Storage, handling and containment of hazardous/potentially hazardous substances Raw material usage especially for non-renewable resources Noise Odour Flora, fauna and landscape Surrounding land-use activities Environmental sensitivity associated with the site or its location, such as adjacency to a stream or overlying an aquifer Previous site uses and any residual contamination
Audits are normally conducted via site surveys, discussions with relevant site personnel and other third parties as relevant. Depending on the site requirements, environmental monitoring of, for example, surface water, groundwater, soil or air may be conducted. The baseline audit should be comprehensively documented as it provides the basis for the development of the remaining EMS components. There are currently three international standards in the ISO 14000 suite (ISO 14010 14012), providing guidance on environmental auditing. Planning Based on the findings of the Baseline Environmental Review/Audit, the environmental improvements necessary should be clear. The next phase is to plan a way forward for ensuring that improvement measures are implemented in a realistic and timely manner. This involves specifying an Environmental Policy, defining objectives and targets and devising an Environmental Management action Programme. Environmental Policy Based on the audit, an environmental policy statement is developed to define the overall environmental aims of the company. This is typically a one-page statement, stating the actual, realistic (not aspirational) environmental aims, committed to by the senior management and signed off by the head of the company. Environmental Objectives and Targets Based on the audit, a schedule of objectives and targets is established for a specified time scale, following on from the policy. Initially, the objectives are largely based on environmental legislative
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requirements, such as the conditions of a license, where these are not already in place. As the aim is to improve environmental performance over time, objectives and targets will be revised and updated over time, in light of license reviews, site requirements etc. Environmental Management Programme (EM Programme) Finally, the EM Programme is developed as an action plan for achieving the objectives and targets. It includes information on the means, time-frame and allocation of responsibility necessary to achieve these.
Implementation and operation
Operational control Practical operational control seeks to oversee site activities, which, if they were not controlled, could have a significant adverse environmental impact. Typical operational control measures include Operation of site-related technology in line with relevant license requirements or best practice Development and use of operational procedures for operations, monitoring etc. Implementation of environmental monitoring programmes as defined in relevant licenses or in line with best practice
Emergency planning and response As environmental impacts can occur as the result of an emergency situation at an industrial facility (e.g. spillage of a hazardous substance, fire generating contaminated fire water or explosion releasing a toxic gas), these potential scenarios are identified and appropriate control measures are put in place to limit and mitigate the likely environmental impacts. Responsibility allocation Within the EMS, the role of an Environmental Manager/Officer for the site is allocated. This person champions the EMS development and takes responsibility for the day-to-day running of the EMS once implemented. Specific requirements for site management and staff as required under the license would be incorporated in this section of the EMS. Awareness and Training Procedures for identifying the environmental training needs of personnel and providing training as relevant are put in place.
Communications A programme is developed to ensure appropriate internal and external communications regarding
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environmental issues relevant to the site. This incorporates all relevant stakeholders and should ensure appropriate access to information on the organizations environmental performance is made available. Typically, the Environmental Policy Statement is used to disseminate information to the public on the company environmental aims. Dependant on license requirements, a variety of environmental performance data, such as environmental monitoring data, records and annual environmental reports are made available to the Regulatory Authority and are in the public domain. It is increasingly common for companies to include environmental performance information in Annual Reports, provide specific Annual Environmental Reports and include environmental information on their websites.
Check and review Checks and corrective action Checks are normally conducted on an on-going basis to ensure that the EMS is operating effectively and to ensure corrective action is taken if EMS elements are not appropriately implemented. Review and improve Inherent in the EMS concept is the requirement for on-going assessment of operations with a view to improving environmental performance over time. Once the EMS is operational, reviews are conducted at a suitable frequency in order to ensure the on-going suitability and effectiveness of the EMS. After the review process, the Policy Statement, Schedule of Objectives and targets, EM programme and other aspects of the EMS may need to be updated. This review will not normally be as comprehensive as the baseline environmental review, but many of the same issues will be considered.
Documentation To facilitate implementation, the essential elements of the EMS are documented in electronic or paper-based format. This may be in the form of an Environmental Management Manual and as part of the existing site operational documentation. As resource conservation is likely to be a key aim in an EMS, the documentation should not be highly paper intensive. Records and reporting Within the EMS documentation, a records and reporting system, typically based on regulatory authority requirements, is developed. Examples of such records and reports include Records of all environmental monitoring Records of the waste generated and associated disposal and/or recycling routes Relevant licenses and/permits for waste contractors used Records of environmental audits and reviews Environmental performance reports
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The advantages of improved environmental management can be divided into two broad categories . The first category addresses the fact that improved environmental management is good for our planet and a fundamental requirement of global sustainability. This is because respecting that present business patterns are fundamentally unsustainable, improved environmental management will serve at least to move our business patterns towards sustainability. The second category, which seems have a more direct relationship with companies, addresses the fact that improved environmental management could benefit the company a lot.
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6 EMAS
The Eco-Management and Audit Scheme (EMAS) is a voluntary management tool for companies and other organisations that was designed to evaluate, report, and improve their environmental performance. Since 1995, companies have been able to participate in the scheme. It was originally restricted to companies in industrial sectors but has widened its focus in 2001 and participation is now open to all economic sectors including public and private services. The latest revision (EMAS III) came into effect on 11 January 2010. EMAS was strengthened by the integration of EN/ISO 14001 as the environmental management system required by EMAS, by adopting an attractive EMAS logo to signal EMAS registration to the outside world, and by considering more strongly indirect effects such as those related to financial services or administrative and planning decisions.
6.1 The main stages of EMAS

To receive EMAS registration an organization must comply with the following steps: 1. Adopt an environmental policy containing commitment both to comply with all relevant environmental legislation and to achieve continuous improvements in environmental performance. 2. conduct an environmental review considering all environmental aspects of the organizations activities, products and services, methods to assess these, its legal and regulatory framework and existing environmental management practices and procedures. 3. in the light of the results of the review, establish an effective environmental management system aimed at achieving the organizations environmental policy defined by the top management. The management system needs to set responsibilities, objectives, means, operational procedures, training needs, monitoring and communication systems. 4. carry out an environmental audit assessing in particular the management system in place and conformity with the organizations policy and programme as well as compliance with relevant environmental regulatory requirements. 5. provide a statement of its environmental performance which lays down the results achieved against the environmental objectives and the future steps to be undertaken in order to continuously improve the organizations environmental performance. 6. The environmental review, EMS, audit procedure and the environmental statement must be approved by an accredited EMAS verifier, and the validated statement needs to be sent to the EMAS Competent Body for registration and made publicly available before an organization can use the EMAS logo.
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The environmental review, EMS, audit procedure and the environmental statement must be approved by an accredited EMAS verifier and the validated statement needs to be sent to the EMAS Competent Body for registration and made publicly available before an organization can use the EMAS logo. The core of EMAS is a continuous improvement cycle or the plan -do-check-act process. The elements of this circle are presented in the figure below:
EMAS continuous improvement diagram
The environmental review is an initial comprehensive analysis of the environmental problems caused by an organisations activities. The outcome is a report that includes hard data about consumption of raw materials and energy and the production of wastes and emissions; information on the indirect environmental impacts of the organisations activities; and an outline of the management structures in place to deal with these impacts. The purpose of the initial review is to identify the most significant environmental impacts and thereby identify possible priorities to be set in the environmental programme and to lay down a benchmark to measure future success in reducing these impacts. The formulation of an environmental policy, reflecting top management's commitment to continuous improvement in environmental performance inside the legal framework is the first visible step of the process. The environmental policy is a document that describes the organisations overall aims and principles of action with respect to the environment. Developed at the highest managerial level, the environmental policy is intended to be revised periodically. It should contain at least two central elements: compliance with relevant environmental regulations and a commitment to continuous improvement.
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The environmental programme translates the general objectives and targets established in the environmental policy into specific targets, determining concrete measures, timeframes, responsibilities, and the resources necessary in order to meet them. The measures laid out in an environmental programme can be of a technical and/or organisational nature. All of the company's activities from top management to the lower levels should be involved in these measures. To ensure the successful implementation of the environmental programme, an organisation is required to establish operating procedures and controls, or an environmental management system. Apart from the environmental impact of production activities and housekeeping activities (property management, procurement, energy consumption, waste production and management), an EMAS-registered environmental management system has to include the indirect environmental impacts of an organisations activities, products or services. Finally, an environmental audit is conducted to assess the management system in place and the whole process is then described in the environmental statement. The statement has to include the following information: A description of the organisation, its structure and its activities, products and services An assessment of all the significant direct and indirect environmental issues A summary of year-by-year figures on pollution emissions, waste generation, consumption of raw material, energy and water, and noise A presentation of the organisation's environmental policy, programmes and management system The deadline for the next statement The name and accreditation number of the environmental verifier and the date of validation
When the environmental management system has been implemented and the environmental statement has been prepared, the organisation must have them validated by an independent accredited verifier: an independent external party that examines the organisations environmental policy, management system, audit procedure(s) and environmental statement to ensure that they meet EMAS requirements. If the verifier is satisfied that the requirements are met, he or she validates the information contained in the companys environmental statement. Once the environmental statement has been verified, the organisation then sends it validated statement to the EMAS National Competent Body for registration. The organisation is then listed in the register of EMAS organisations and has the right to use the EMAS logo. Organisations are required to update their environmental statement annually, although in exceptional circumstances, for example, small organisations, this renewal period can be extended with the agreement of the verifier, normally up to three years. The EMAS environmental management system is defined according to the ISO 14001 Standard. However, when implementing EMAS, participating organisations must also:
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Demonstrate legal compliance Commit to continual improvement of their environmental performance Demonstrate an open dialogue with all stakeholders Extend employee involvement to the process of continually improving the organisations environmental performance
Potential benefits EMAS provides a systematic approach to implementing an environmental management system and can incorporate tools such as ISO 14001 The EMAS logo can help to promote an organisations active involvement in environmental issues to potential customers or service users EMAS helps organisations reduce waste, energy use and resources that can help to reduce costs EMAS can provide a method for communicating environmental accountability to stakeholders including funders through periodic statements that have been externally validated by an independent verifier It seeks to instill continuous improvement Involving employees is central to EMAS, and it can be a good way of motivating action towards environmental improvement
Potential limitations EMAS has the potential to be expensive due to the cost of verification, training that may be required, and registration Conformity to EMAS may be complicated or labour intensive for some small social enterprises, particularly if new to environmental management systems It deals with environmental impact only, and does not focus on social or economic impacts, except when they are concerned directly with the environment Though it has been applied in a variety of organisations, in the public and private sectors, third sector examples are limited
6.2 Who can use EMAS?

EMAS is open to all types of organisations from all economic sectors. Small or large socially enterprising organisations, local authorities, and multi-national companies can all participate in EMAS. EMAS can be applied to the whole of an organisation or to specific sites.
6.3 What resources are needed?
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Leadership: Organisations will need to make sure that management levels are involved and support the EMAS implementation project. Proficiencies or skills: EMAS needs time, knowledge, human resources and potentially external advice. External assistance can be useful for carrying out the steps of the system, such as the initial environmental review and identification of the significant environmental aspects of your company's activities and legal requirements. The cost of implementing EMAS will vary depending upon the organisation and size. Though the guidance notes for EMAS are free, the main costs relate mainly to those for the external verifier, registration fees and implementation costs. Staff time: Depending on the organisation's size, number of sites, previous experience with management systems and the complexity of environmental impacts, the typical time span to implement EMAS varies from a few months in a small organisation with few sites to several years in very large organisations with many sites. Once EMAS is implemented and registration attained, system maintenance takes fewer resources since many activities required for the first registration are no longer needed. The EMAS Small Organisation Toolkit suggests that one day per week will be required to keep EMAS effective, whether a large or small organisation. Courses, support, and information: There are a number of web-based support tools available. The EMAS EU website is the main portal for information and support. This contains guidance on implementing EMAS, leaflets, statistics, case studies and offers an ability to view and compare other organisations environmental performance statements. The website also has details of the EMAS Helpdesk that can be contacted with all queries regarding the system. EMAS also produces publications, such as the Energy efficiency toolkit for small and Medium-sized enterprises, that can be used as a stepping stone to full EMAS registration. EMAS and The International Network for Environmental Management (INEM) produce a toolkit for small organisations that may be particularly useful for socially enterprising organisations: http://www.inem.org. This provides a web-based guide to the system and extensive information on how to implement EMAS, as well as further information on financial support, case studies and other resources. Development, ownership and support: EMAS emerged in 1993 as a framework open to industrial sector companies operating in the European Union and the European Economic Area (EEA). In March 2001, the Council and the European Parliament adopted the revised EMAS regulation that strengthens and extends the scope of the scheme. This includes the extension of the scope of EMAS to all sectors of economic activity, the EMAS logo and incorporation of ISO 14001:2004. A revised protocol will be in effect from 2010.
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7 ISO 14001
ISO 14001 is the internationally recognized standard for the environmental management of businesses. It prescribes controls for those activities that have an effect on the environment. These include the use of natural resources, handling and treatment of waste and energy consumption. The fundamental principle and overall goal of the ISO 14001 standard, is the concept of continual improvement. ISO 14001 is based on the Plan-Do-Check-Act methodology which has been expanded to include 17 elements, grouped into five phases that relate to Plan-Do-Check-Act: Environmental Policy Planning Implementation & Operation Checking & Corrective Action Management Review
7.1 General Requirements

An organization must establish, document, implement, and continually improve their environmental management system and show how they meet all the requirements of this standard. The organization defines the scope of the EMS, i.e. the boundaries of the organization to which the EMS applies.
7.2 Environmental Policy

The organization must have a policy, or commitment statement, developed by top management relative to the scope of the EMS that conforms to the standard. This is generally a short statement that drives the remainder of the EMS. There are specific items that must be committed to in the policy, such as compliance with legal and other requirements, prevention of pollution, and continual improvement. In addition, the policy must be communicated to all employees, and others working on behalf of the organization, and be available to the public. The policy provides a framework for reviewing objectives and targets and be appropriate to the nature and scale of the entity included in the scope. This policy must be documented, implemented, and maintained. This means that it is kept current through the EMS review and continual improvement process, and is implemented through the remainder of the EMS elements.
7.3 Planning
Environmental Aspects
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This element requires a procedure to identify environmental aspects and related impacts that the organization can control or have influence over, and determine those which are significant to the organization. ISO 14001 does not prescribe what aspects should be significant, or even how to determine significance. However, it is expected that a consistent and verifiable process is used to determine significance. Aspects are defined as how an organizations activities products and/or services interact with the environment. An impact is how an aspect changes the environment. The intent of this element is to help the organization identify how it affects the environment, prioritize aspects, and use the EMS to manage, control, and improve upon the aspects. So the o the organization must ensure that the significant aspects are taken into account in the EMS. In order to ensure that the system is continually improving and current, this information must be kept up to date. Legal and other Requirements
This is a requirement for a procedure that explains how the organization obtains information regarding its legal and other requirements, and makes that information known to key functions within the organization. The intent of this element is to identify the environmental legal and other requirements that pertain to its operations and activities so that the organization can ensure that they are taken into account in the EMS. In doing so, the organization must also determine how these requirements apply to the significant aspects. Objectives, Targets and Programmes
There is no requirement for a procedure in this element. However, there must be some process that ensures that the objectives and targets are consistent with the policy, which includes the commitments to compliance with legal and other requirements, continual improvement, and prevention of pollution. Also, the organization must take into consideration significant aspects, legal and other requirements, views of interested parties, and technological, financial, and business issues when deciding what it wishes to accomplish as an objective. The objectives and targets need to exist at whatever functions and levels of the organization, and be measurable, where practicable. Management programs (MPs) are the detailed plans and programs explaining how the objectives and targets will be accomplished. These MPs usually note responsible personnel, milestones and dates, and measurements of success. Noting monitoring and measurement parameters directly in the MP facilitates conforming to 4.5.1 on Monitoring and Measurement discussed below. MPs are required for the objectives and targets in an EMS.
7.4 Implementation and Operation

Structure and Responsibility
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ISO 14001 requires that the relevant management and accountability structure be defined in this element. Top management is expected to ensure that resources are available so that the EMS can be implemented, maintained, and improved. These resources include human resources, organizational structure, financial and technological resources, and others as needed. Roles, responsibilities, and authorities must be defined, documented and communicated as appropriate. The organization must denote the Management Representative who is responsible to oversee the EMS and report to management on its operation. This person(s) ensures that the EMS is established, implemented and maintained consistent with ISO 14001, and also reports to top management on the performance of the system including recommendations for improvement. Training, Awareness and Competence
The key point in this element is to ensure that persons performing tasks that have or can have significant impact on the environment and/or relate to the legal and other requirements are competent to do those tasks. Competence is ensured through appropriate education, training, and/or experience. The organization needs to identify training needs as they relate to the EMS, the significant aspects, and the legal and other requirements and make sure this training is provided (records of such are to be maintained). A procedure is needed that makes sure such persons are: aware of the need to conform with all EMS procedures and requirements and what they specifically need to do to do so; the significant aspects and the legal and other requirements associated with their respective responsibilities and why improved performance is beneficial; and the consequences of not following these procedures and requirements. In addition to job-specific knowledge, it expected that all personnel within the EMS (including contractors) have general awareness on items such as the policy and emergency response. Communication
Procedures are required for both internal and external communications. Note that ISO 14001 only requires procedures, and allows the organization to decide for itself the degree of openness and disclosure of information. Whatever the decision is in terms of disclosure, the decision process must be recorded. There is a specific requirement that the organization consider external communications about its significant environmental aspects and record its decision. For internal communications, the procedure needs to describe how it is done among the levels of the organization. For external communications, it has to describe how external communications are received, documented, and a response provided. Environmental Management System Documentation
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This requirement ensures that the organization has documented the system in either electronic or paper form such that it addresses the elements of the standard, describes how the organization conforms to each element, and provides direction to related documentation. Not all ISO 14001required procedures need to be documented, as long as the system requirements can be verified. However, documentation must be provided such that enough is available to ensure the effective planning, operation, and control of processes related to the significant aspects, and to demonstrate conformance to ISO 14001. Such documentation at a minimum includes policy, objectives and targets, a definition of the scope of the EMS, and other main elements. Document Control
The organization is required to control documents, such as system procedures and work instructions, to ensure that current versions are distributed and obsolete versions are removed from the system. There is a requirement for a document control procedure that ensures documents are approved prior to use, are reviewed and updated as necessary, changes to versions are identified, that the current versions are available at points of use, that they are legible, identifiable, and that obsolete ones are so noted to avoid unintended use. It is acceptable to use documents of internal origin in the EMS, but those must be identified as being essential to the EMS and their distribution controlled. Operational Control
For this element, critical functions related to the policy, significant aspects, the legal and other requirements, and objectives and targets are identified and procedures and work instructions are required to ensure proper execution of activities. Requirements for communicating applicable system requirements to contractors also need to be addressed in these procedures. The required procedures need to provide instruction such that the organization conforms to the policy, objectives and targets, the legal and other requirements, and addresses any impacts from significant aspects. Which procedures are needed can be determined by review of the significant aspects, objects and targets, the legal and other requirements, and policy and then deciding what must be proceduralized and documented to ensure that deviations from planned arrangements do not occur. In regard to the contractors, the organization will need to establish procedures related to the significant aspects the legal and other requirements, of the goods and services it uses, and communicating the relevant elements of those procedures to the suppliers and contractors. Emergency Procedures
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Although typically addressed through conventional emergency response plans, this element also requires that a process exist for actually identifying the potential emergencies, in addition to planning and mitigating them. Emergency incidents include those that may not be regulated, but may still cause significant impact as defined by the organization. As part of continual improvement, it is required that the organization not only responds to emergency situations, but also reviews the emergency procedures and make improvements as necessary. This may involve periodic testing of emergency procedures, if practicable.
7.5 Checking and corrective action, monitoring and measurement

Monitoring and measurement
In order to properly manage the system, measurements must be taken of its performance to provide data for action. Procedures are required describing how the organization will monitor and measure key parameters of operations. These parameters relate to the operations that can have significant impacts, to monitor performance towards the objectives and targets, and to monitor conformance to the legal and other requirements and other EMS requirements. Equipment related to environmental measurements, such as temperature and pH meters and pressure gauges, must be calibrated according to procedures, and records maintained. Evaluation of Compliance
The first part of this element requires the organization to have a procedure(s) to periodically evaluate its compliance with applicable legal requirements as defined in Legal and other Requirements. The organization will need to keep records of these periodic evaluations. The second part of this element also requires a similar evaluation for compliance with other requirements. Again these are defined in Legal and other Requirements and the procedure can be the same. Non-conformance, Corrective and Preventive Actions
This element requires procedures for acting on non-conformances identified in the system, including corrective and preventive action. A non-conformance is a situation where the actual condition is not in accordance with planned conditions. Someone not following a procedure, a regulatory non-compliance, or an incident, is all examples of possible systemic non-conformances. Non-conformances may be identified through audits, monitoring and measurement, and communications. The intent is to correct the system flaws by addressing root causes, rather than just fixing the immediate incident only. The standard also requires that trends in corrective actions be evaluated to see if deeper-rooted preventive actions can also be implemented.
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The procedure needs to make sure the non-conformances are not only first addressed to mitigate environmental impact; but that further investigation occurs to determine their cause, and action taken to avoid it happening again. Preventive actions would then be those actions resulting from an evaluation as to why nonconformities are occurring and taking action to prevent their recurrence. The standard states that the corrective action is appropriate to the magnitude of the problem and the impacts encountered; to avoid either over-compensating or under-compensating for a problem. The organization must record the results of corrective actions taken, and must also review the effectiveness of actions taken. Records
Records are expected to exist to serve as verification of the system operating and the organizations conformance to the standard and its own EMS requirements. Procedures in this element are required for the maintenance of records, and specifically require that records are identifiable, retrievable, safely stored, and legible, retained as appropriate, and traceable. Environmental Management System Audits
ISO 14001 requires that the system provide for internal audits. This procedure could include methodologies, schedules, checklists and forms, and processes used to conduct the audits. The purpose of this audit is to determine whether the system conforms to the requirements of ISO 14001 and the organizations own EMS detailed requirements, and if the EMS has been properly implemented and maintained. The procedure for internal audits has to address responsibilities and requirements for planning and executing the audits, reporting results, and what records will be generated (and maintained in accordance with Records). The procedures also address determination of audit scope, how often they will be conducted, and specifically how they will be done. Auditors need to be selected such that it ensures objectivity and impartiality of the audit process.
7.6 Management Review

This element requires that periodically, top management will review the EMS to ensure it is operating as planned, and is suitable, adequate, and effective. The organization needs to ensure that in the review: results of internal audits (EMS and compliance); external communications; environmental performance; status on objectives and targets; status of corrective and preventive actions; follow up on actions from prior management reviews; and changing conditions or situations; and recommendations for improvement are all discussed. Results and records of management review include: agendas, attendance records, minutes, and documented agreed upon action items.
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ISO 14001:2004 requires that at a minimum your environmental management system be rationalized and articulated by: 11 Documented Procedures an EMS Scope statement an Environmental Policy at least 14 Record types, and a description of the main EMS elements, including their interaction and related documents.
ISO 14001:2004 Required Documented Procedures: Identification of Environmental Aspect and their Significance Identification of Legal and Other Requirements EMS Awareness Internal and External Communication Document Control Identification of Potential Emergencies and Emergency Preparedness and Response Monitoring and Measurement of Significant Aspects Evaluation of Compliance with Legal and Other Requirements Corrective and Preventive Action Record Control Internal Audits
Once you have an environmental management system in place, you may choose to have it externally audited. Following a successful audit by an accredited certification body, you will be issued with a certificate of registration to ISO 14001. This demonstrates that your organisation is committed to environmental issues and is prepared to work towards improving the environment. It also gives a competitive edge to the company's marketing and enhances its image in the eyes of customers, employees and shareholders.
7.7 Benefits
ISO 14001 was developed primarily to assist companies in reducing their environmental impact. In addition to an improvement in environmental standards and performance, organizations can reap a number of economic benefits including higher conformance with legislative and regulatory requirements by utilizing the ISO standard: minimizing the risk of regulatory and environmental liability fines, improving organizations efficiency, leading to a reduction in waste and consumption of resources, operating costs can be reduced.
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as an internationally recognized standard, businesses operating in multiple locations across the globe can register as ISO 14001 compliant, eliminating the need for multiple registrations or certifications
This in turn can have a positive impact on a companys asset value and can lead to improved public perceptions of the business, placing them in a better position to operate in the international marketplace.
7.8 ISO 14001:2004 Environmental Management System Requirements Systemic requirements (4.1)
Establish an environmental management system that complies with the ISO 14001 2004 standard. Document your environmental management system in accordance with the ISO 14001 2004 standard Implement your environmental management system in accordance with the ISO 14001 2004 standard. Maintain your environmental management system in accordance with the ISO 14001 2004 standard. Continually improve your environmental management system in accordance with the ISO 14001 2004 standard
Policy Requirements (4.2)

Establish your organizations environmental policy Define your organizations environmental policy Document your organizations environmental policy Implement your organizations environmental policy Maintain your organizations environmental policy Communicate your organizations environmental policy
Planning Requirements (4.3)

4.3.1 Identify your
Establish procedures to identify the environmental aspects of your
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environmental aspects
activities, products, and services

Implement procedures to identify the environmental aspects of your activities, products, and services Document the environmental aspects of your organizations activities, products, and services Maintain procedures to identify the environmental aspects of your activities, products, and services Establish procedures to identify and clarify the legal and other requirements that apply to your organizations environmental aspects Implement procedures to identify and clarify the legal and other requirements that apply to your environmental aspects Maintain procedures to identify and clarify the legal and other requirements that apply to your environmental aspects
4.3.2 Clarify legal and other requirements
4.3.3 Establish objectives and programs
Establish environmental objectives and targets
Implement environmental objectives and targets

Maintain environmental objectives and targets
Establish programs to achieve your organization's environmental objectives and targets
Implement programs to achieve your environmental objectives and targets.

Maintain programs to achieve your environmental objectives and targets
Operational Requirements (4.4)

4.4.1 Provide resources and establish jobs
Provide the resources needed to support your organizations environmental management system
Provide the resources needed to establish your environmental management system Provide the resources needed to implement your environmental management system
Provide the resources needed to maintain your environmental management system

Provide the resources needed to improve your environmental management system Establish environmental Define your environmental management roles, responsibilities, management roles, responsibilities,
and authorities
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and authorities
Document your environmental management roles, responsibilities, and authorities
4.4.2 Deliver training and awareness programs.
Communicate your environmental management roles, responsibilities, and authorities Appoint someone to assume the role of management representative Make sure that people, who perform tasks that could potentially have a significant environmental impact, are in fact competent
Establish your environmental training programs
Identify your organizations environmental training needs Deliver training programs that meet your environmental training needs
Maintain a record of your organizations environmental training activities
Establish a procedure to make people aware of your environmental management system

4.4.3 Establish communication procedures
Implement your environmental awareness procedure

Maintain your environmental awareness procedure
Establish a procedure to control your organizations internal environmental communications
Implement your organizations internal environmental communications procedure

Maintain your organizations internal environmental communications procedure
Establish a procedure to control your organizations external environmental communications
Implement your organizations external environmental communications procedure
4.4.4 Document your environmental management system
4.4.5 Control environmental management documents 4.4.6 Control
Maintain your organizations external environmental communications procedure Document your organizations environmental policy Document your organizations environmental objectives Document your organizations environmental targets Document the scope of environmental management system Describe how the parts of your Document the main parts of organization's environmental environmental management system. management system interact Control documents required by the ISO 14001 2004 standard Control documents required by your environmental management system Control your environmental management system records Identify those operations that are associated with your organizations
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environmentally significant operations
significant environmental aspects Establish procedures to manage and control operational situations that could have significant environmental impacts
Document your environmental operational control procedures Implement your environmental operational control procedures
Maintain your environmental operational control procedures Implement your environmental supplier and contractor control procedures
Establish procedures to control the significant environmental aspects of the goods and services provided by your suppliers and contractors. 4.4.7 Establish an emergency management process
Maintain your environmental supplier and contractor control procedures Prepare for emergency situations and accidents that could have a significant impact on the environment
Establish procedures to identify potential emergency situations and accidents that could have an impact on the environment
Implement procedures to identify potential emergency situations and accidents that could have an impact
Maintain procedures to identify potential emergency situations and accidents that could have an impact on the environment
Establish procedures to respond to actual emergency situations and accidents that have an impact on the environment
Implement procedures to respond to actual emergency situations and accidents that have an impact.
Maintain procedures to respond to actual emergency situations and accidents that have an impact on the environment. Test your environmental emergency response procedures Respond to actual environmental emergencies and accidents. Prevent or mitigate the adverse environmental impacts that emergencies and accidents can and do cause Review and revise your environmental emergency preparedness and response procedures.
Checking Requirements (4.5)

4.5.1 Establish monitoring and measurement capabilities
Establish procedures to monitor and measure the operational characteristics that could have a significant impact on the environment.
Implement your organization's environmental monitoring and measuring procedures.
Maintain your organization's environmental monitoring and measuring procedures Use calibrated or verified environmental monitoring and measuring
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equipment Maintain your organizations environmental monitoring and measuring equipment Keep a record of your environmental monitoring and measuring activities 4.5.2 Evaluate legal and other compliance 4.5.2.1 Evaluate compliance with legal requirements
Establish a procedure to periodically evaluate how well your organization complies with all relevant legal environmental requirements
Implement a procedure to periodically evaluate how well your organization complies with all relevant legal environmental requirements
4.5.2.2 Evaluate compliance with other requirements
Maintain a procedure to periodically evaluate how well your organization complies with all relevant legal environmental requirements Records the results of your organizations legal environmental compliance evaluation Establish a procedure to Implement a procedure to periodically evaluate how well your periodically evaluate how well your organization complies with other organization complies with other environmental requirements environmental requirements Maintain a procedure to periodically evaluate how well your organization complies with other environmental requirements Record the results of your organization's other environmental compliance evaluations
4.5.3 Deal with your nonconformities
Establish nonconformance management procedures
Implement nonconformance management procedures
4.5.4 Control your environmental records
Maintain nonconformance management procedures Change documents when nonconformities make it necessary Establish environmental records for your organization
Establish procedures to control your environmental records
Implement procedures to control environmental records
4.5.5 Perform internal environmental management audits
Maintain procedures to control environmental records Plan the development of an internal environmental management audit program Establish your environmental Implement your internal environmental management audit program management audit program Maintain your internal environmental management audit program
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Establish an environmental management audit procedure
Implement your internal environmental management audit procedure.
Maintain your internal environmental management audit procedure Conduct internal audits of environmental management system. Report internal audit results to your organizations management
Review Requirements (4.6)

Perform environmental management reviews Review the suitability, adequacy, and effectiveness of your environmental management system Assess whether or not your environmental management system should be changed
Assess opportunities for improvement
Assess whether or not your organizations environmental policy should be changed Assess whether or not your organizations environmental objectives should be changed
Assess whether or not your organizations environmental targets should be changed Keep a record of your environmental reviews
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8 ISO 9001 Quality Management Systems (QMS)

ISO 9001:2008 is an international standard that specifies requirements for a quality management system where an organization: needs to demonstrate its ability to consistently provide product that meets customer and applicable statutory and regulatory requirements aims to enhance customer satisfaction through the effective application of the system, including processes for continual improvement of the system and the assurance of conformity to customer and applicable statutory and regulatory requirements. The major advantages of ISO 9001:2008 are: easy to use, simple language and readily translatable significant reduction in required documentation directly linked to organisational processes and goals a focus on improved organisational performance emphasis on customer satisfaction compatibility with other management systems, including ISO 14001 environmental management systems. Any organisation can benefit from implementing ISO 9001:2008 as its requirements are underpinned by eight management principles: a customer focused organisation leadership the involvement of people ensuring a process approach a systematic approach to management a factual approach to decision making mutually beneficial supplier relations continuous improvement
8.1 What is ISO 9001 Certification?

ISO 9001:2000 certification refers to the issuing of written assurance (the certificate) by an independent, external body (the Certification Body) that has audited an organizations QMS and verified that it conforms to the requirements specified in the standard. Registration means that the auditing body then records the certification in its client register. The organizations QMS has therefore been both certified and registered. For practical purposes the difference between the two terms is not significant and both are acceptable for general use. Certification is the term most widely used worldwide, although registration (from which registrar as an alternative to certification body) is more commonly used in North America , an the two are also used interchangeably.
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The standard is structured into five main chapters. These five chapters are:
4.0 Quality Management System 5.0 Management Responsibility 6.0 Resource Management 7.0 Product Realization 8.0 Measurement, Analysis and Improvement
Quality Management System
This section of the standard explains the requirements for specific documentation to control the quality management system. This is to ensure that the company puts in place a system that is both auditable and that records are kept by which will allow conformance to be verified and as a basis for continuous improvement. The main sections are with regard to the creation and maintenance of a quality manual and other documentation, as well as how documents and records will be controlled.
Management Responsibility
This section requires top managements commitment to the quality management system, it forms the top level PDCA ( Plan-Do-Check-Act) loop for the whole organization; Top management must define policy, objectives and plans to achieve customer satisfaction, (Plan). Then they must assign responsibility and authority to those who have to execute the plan, (Do). All of this should then be communicated and reviewed through the Management Review attended by top management and monitored by the management representative, (Check). The plan should be reviewed as part of the output of the Management Review meeting and communicated to all (Act).
Resource Management
As part of the planning for the quality management system the top management shall also ensure that the required resources are in place to ensure the smooth running of the system, this includes physical infrastructure, environment and trained competent people.
Product Realization
The largest section, covering the planning, product development, purchasing and production. This is the part of the business with the main interactions with the customer, the customer specifying their requirements, then you planning and delivering their requirements.
Measurement, Analysis and Improvement
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This section is not just about providing gauges and equipment to check production output and controlling defective product, it is also about putting in place ways to monitor your attainment of your objectives, measuring customer satisfaction, and auditing your management systems. It also requires that you take preventative action before errors occur as well as corrective action when things go wrong. On top of all of this you are required to continuously improve all of these systems and processes. All requirements of ISO 9001:2008 are generic and are intended to be applicable to all organizations, regardless of type, size and product provided. Where any requirement(s) of ISO 9001:2008 cannot be applied due to the nature of an organization and its product, this can be considered for exclusion. Organizations complying with the ISO 9001:2008 standard are recognizable by the ISO 9001 logo given by the certification body.
8.2 Certification process for an organization
1. Pre-assessment
Before the actual certification audit, a CB auditor makes a preliminary visit of your facilities, briefly reviews your QMS documentation and conduct an informal check of the QMS implementation. In essence, this preliminary audit intended to uncover areas in your QMS that might need special attention. During the initial visit the audit scope and audit program is agreed upon, as well. A Pre-assessment is an optional activity. It adds value in that it provides an organization with a clear view of the gaps in its state of readiness, a few months prior to the formal certification audit. More and more organizations now prefer experienced consultant auditors to do the Pre- assessments as they not just identify the gaps, but also provide solutions to correcting them. CB auditors may only report on the gaps, but are not allowed to provide solutions.
2. Documentation review
The CB audit team evaluates your QMS manual to determine the adequacy of its scope and conformity to the requirements of the standard. The documentation review report summarizes any findings from this process. The report indicates if your organization is ready to proceed with the certification audit.
3. Certification audit
During the certification audit, the CB audit team conduct interviews, examinations and observations of the system in operation. It provides the team essential information required for
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the certification process and assesses the degree of conformity of the QMS with the requirements of the standard. When found conforming, the CB issue the certificate of conformity to ISO 9001:2008.
4. Surveillance audits
Each issued certificate has a three-year life period. Upon certification, the CB create a periodic audit schedule for surveillance audits over the three-year period. These audits confirm the on going compliance of the QMS with specified requirements of the standard. At least one periodic audit per year is required.
5. Re-certification audit
After the three years are up, your certification will be extended through a re-certification audit.
Benefits
External Improves customer confidence and satisfaction in an organizations QMS capability and consistency in meeting requirements; Improves conformity to quality requirements; Increases competitive edge and market share; Increasingly recognized as a requirement for contractual relationships in the global arena. Internal Improves business efficiency and productivity; Reduces organizational waste, inefficiencies, and defects; Facilitates continual improvement in business processes and customer satisfaction; Improves process consistency and stability; Facilitates employee competence and consistency of performance; Improves employee motivation and empowerment through improved participation, communication and interaction; Generates objective evidence to support the assessment of QMS conformity and effectiveness; Improves supplier performance by developing relationships that foster cooperative interaction in understanding and fulfilling customer requirements.
8.3 ISO 9001:2008 Requirements General Requirement (4)

4.1 Develop your QMS 4.2 Document your QMS
Establish , document, implement, maintain, improve your organization's QMS 4.2.1 Manage QMS documents
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4.2.2 Prepare QMS manual 4.2.3 Control QMS documents 4.2.4 Establish QMS records
Management Requirements (5)

5.1 Show your commitment to quality
Support the development of your QMS

Support the implementation of your QMS Support efforts to continually improve your QMS Identify customer requirements Meet your customers' requirements
5.2 Focus on customers 5.3 Support your quality policy
Ensure that quality policy expects requirements to be met

Ensure that quality policy makes a commitment to improve Ensure that quality policy actively supports quality objectives
Ensure that quality policy is communicated and discussed

Ensure that quality policy is periodically reviewed 5.4 Carry out your QMS planning 5.5 Allocate QMS responsibility and authority 5.6 Perform QMS management reviews
5.4.1 Establish your quality objectives

5.4.2 Plan your quality management system 5.5.1 Define responsibilities and authorities 5.5.2 Create management representative role 5.5.3 Support internal communication
5.6.1 Review quality management system 5.6.2 Examine management review inputs
5.6.3 Generate management review outputs
Resource Requirements (6)

6.1 Provide required QMS resources 6.2 Provide competent QMS personnel Identify the resources that your QMS needs Provide the resources that your QMS needs
6.2.1 Ensure the competence of workers

6.2.2 Meet competence requirements Identify your infrastructure needs
6.3 Provide necessary infrastructure
Provide needed infrastructure

Maintain your infrastructure
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6.4 Provide suitable work environment
Identify needed work environment

Manage needed work environment
Realization Requirements (7)

7.1 Control product realization planning Establish a product realization planning process Plan the realization of your organization's products Prepare product realization planning outputs Develop your product realization processes 7.2.1 Identify your product requirements 7.2.2 Review customers' product requirements 7.2.3 Communicate with your customers 7.3.1 Plan product design and development
7.2 Control customer related processes
7.3 Control your product design and development
7.3.2 Identify design and development inputs 7.3.3 Generate design and development outputs
7.3.4 Carry out design and development reviews 7.3.5 Perform design and development verifications 7.3.6 Conduct design and development validations 7.3.7 Manage design and development changes
7.4 Control purchasing and purchased products
7.4.1 Establish control of your purchasing process 7.4.2 Specify your purchasing requirements
7.4.3 Verify your purchased products
7.5 Control production and service provision
7.5.1 Establish control of production and service

7.5.2 Validate production and service provision
7.5.3 Identify and track your products

7.5.4 Protect property supplied by customers 7.5.5 Preserve your products and components 7.6 Control monitoring and measuring equipment Identify monitoring and measuring needs Select monitoring and measuring equipment Establish monitoring and measuring processes Calibrate monitoring and measuring equipment Protect your monitoring and measuring equipment Confirm suitability of monitoring and measuring software
Remedial Requirements (8)
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8.1 Establish monitoring and measurement processes
Identify monitoring, measurement, and analytical processes
Plan monitoring, measurement, and analytical processes

Implement monitoring, measurement, and analytical processes.
8.2 Carry out monitoring and measurement activities
8.2.1 Monitor and measure customer satisfaction
8.2.2 Plan and perform regular internal audits 8.2.3 Monitor and measure your QMS processes
8.2.4 Monitor and measure product characteristics Establish a nonconforming products procedure
8.3 Identify and control nonconforming products
8.4 Collect and analyze quality management data
Document , implement , maintain your nonconforming products procedure. Define your QMS information needs
Collect data about your organization's QMS Provide information by analyzing your QMS data
8.5 Make improvements and take remedial actions
8.5.1 Improve the effectiveness of your QMS 8.5.2 Correct nonconformities to prevent recurrence
8.5.3 Prevent the occurrence of nonconformities
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9 Oeko-Tex Standard 1000

To complement the product-related Oeko-Tex Standard 100, the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 is a testing, auditing and certification system for environmentally-friendly production sites throughout the textile processing chain. To qualify for certification according to the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000, companies must meet stipulated criteria in terms of their environmentally-friendly manufacturing processes and provide evidence that at least 30% of total production is already certified under Oeko-Tex Standard 100. Certification criteria include:

use of environmentally-damaging auxiliaries and dyestuffs prohibited compliance with standard values for waste water and exhaust air treatment optimisation of energy consumption avoidance of noise and dust pollution defined measures to ensure safety at the workplace use of child labour prohibited introduction of basic elements of an environmental management system existence of a quality management system
The company guarantees in a declaration of commitment that they comply with all the criteria required by the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000. The incorporation of basic elements of an environmental management system in the operational procedures is essential for this.
9.1 The certification procedure according to Oeko -Tex Standard 1000

An analysis is made of the strengths and weaknesses of the companys manufacturing procedures. The result is a record of the current environmental impact. This is used to ascertain what action is required and to draw up plans for the implementation of any changes, plus a time schedule. After the necessary measures have been carried out in the company, independent auditors check for compliance with the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 on site. If the audit is successful, certification in accordance with the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 is awarded. If any discrepancies are revealed during the audit, the company has the opportunity to carry out improvements. The audited sites have the right to use the environmental label for a period of 3 years and to promote this production site. The company draws up an environmental report for the auditor every year, documenting its activities, the targets it has achieved, and those which it has not achieved. A so-called conformity audit is carried out on the basis of this.
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9.2 Advantages
The additional cost of certifying and production process according to Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 offers textile and clothing companies the following advantages:
effective public relations documentation of the objectively stipulated ecological measures in place at a production site increased production efficiency and thus reduced costs waste minimization increased acceptance of a company's products on the market.
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10 The Social Accountability 8000 (SA8000)

The Social Accountability 8000 (SA8000) is an international standard for improving working conditions around the world. SA8000 is based on conventions of the International Labour Organization (ILO), the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child. It aims to guarantee basic rights of workers involved in the production processes. SA8000 composed the following requirements : Child labour is not permitted Forced labour is not permitted Health and Safety have to be assured Freedom of Association and the right to collective bargaining have to be guaranteed Discrimination is not permitted Disciplinary practices are not permitted Working hours shall not exceed 48 hours a week, with a maximum of 12 hours overtime Remuneration shall be sufficient Management systems shall guarantee that the requirements are effectively satisfied The standard maps out how a company should incorporate the following aspects:
Child labour
SA8000 seeks to prohibit child labour, pursuant to most stringent of the following rules: minimum age of 15; ILO Conventions; and national law or any other law or standard applicable to the workplace under review. Companies are responsible for ensuring the remediation, and if necessary financing the remediation, of those child workers displaced by the implementation of SA8000 and to eventually promote the effective education of all their young workers while ensuring them a safe and healthy working environment. In the event that child labourers were displaced during the process of the workplace coming into compliance with SA8000, the remediation responsibility of the company applies. It should be noted that, depending upon the age of the child in need of remediation, educational facilities may need to take the form of day care, primary education, secondary or vocational education.
Forced labour
SA8000 prohibits all kinds of forced or compulsory labour under any and every condition, including bonded, indentured, and/or compulsory prison labour. Green Tools Handbook
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SA8000 calls for full disclosure to every prospective worker of the terms and conditions of employment prior to his or her recruitment, pre-employment procedures or employment. The terms of the employee contract should be fully communicated to and understood by every worker and should in no way be linked to the worker becoming indebted in any way. In short, no one shall be forced to work.
Health and Safety
The health and safety of all employees is the responsibility of the employer. SA8000 seeks to ensure that workers have a safe and healthy workplace, where adequate preventive measures are taken to minimize, and where possible eliminate health and safety risks both in the short and long term. Management is responsible for workplace conditions, and therefore for ensuring that workers are able to perform their functions throughout their adult lifetime without actual or latent health damage. An effective system is key to the achievement of a safe and healthy workplace. In order to ensure its effectiveness, all employees should be regularly informed and trained.
Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining
The intent of SA8000 is to promote on-going, constructive social dialogue between workers collectively and management. SA8000 requires that employers permit, without any direct or indirect impediment or negative consequences for any workers, non-violent efforts towards worker organizing, trade union membership, and collective bargaining. SA8000 does not require the establishment of a trade union. SA8000 seeks to: protect workers right to organize and represent themselves in collective negotiation with management; protect against international trends in discrimination against worker representatives and members of worker organizations, particularly trade unions; and ensure that management does not unreasonably refuse to bargain collectively with workers organizations that have been properly established. In countries where some or all aspects of workers rights to freedom of association and collective bargaining are restricted or prohibited by law -and only in those countries- employers have a special obligation. They shall enable workers (if they so choose) to develop forms of collective representation and to engage in collective negotiation with management. Even in these cases, management shall not seek to influence or interfere with workers discussions, voting processes or related activities.
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Discrimination
SA8000 seeks to ensure equal and respectful treatment for all workers in all matters. Employees shall be employed, trained, promoted and compensated solely on the basis of their job performance and they will be free from all types of indecent verbal, physical and sexual harassment and other discriminatory practices.
Disciplinary practices
When determining disciplinary measures or giving performance reviews, employers should demonstrate respect for workers mental, emotional and physical well-being. Procedures should be defined and followed for matters relating to employee performance evaluations and disciplinary action. These procedures should be applied consistently and not arbitrarily to every employee. If disciplinary action is necessary, SA8000 encourages a progressive course of action, beginning with verbal or written warnings before more serious disciplinary action is taken. Fines or wage deductions for disciplinary purposes also violate SA8000.
Working hours
SA8000 aims to limit the widespread abuse of overtime. Overtime hours must be voluntary, unless a collective bargaining agreement allows for required overtime under certain conditions, and are not to exceed 12 hours per week, even when the regular workweek is less than 48 hours. Accordingly the 60 hours rule should be regarded as a guide only.
Remuneration
Workers must be remunerated for the adequate performance of their work and they must be paid in full. Wages earned for regular hours worked (i.e. no more than 48 hours a week or lower as prescribed by law) must be sufficient to meet the basic needs of the worker and at least half of his/her dependents. It should not be necessary to work overtime to earn a basic needs wage. Labor-only contracts or apprenticeship schemes should not be used to avoid paying benefits or to fulfill ongoing, routine tasks integral to the work of the organization. To ensure that the requirements are in place and respected, SA8000 asks for a Social Management System (SMS). The social management system (SMS) as required by SA8000 must include the following key elements: Social Policy Management Representative Planning Implementation
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Checking and Corrective Actions Management Review Communication Records
Social Policy
The social policy should cover social accountability and labour conditions, and ensures that the SA 8000 requirements are met, all local rules and regulation and all international recommendations and agreements are fulfilled. It should state a commitment to continuous improvement. The policy must be documented, implemented, communicated internally and externally and policy available.
Management Representative
The Standard requires a senior manager to be appointed as representative who assures that the requirements of the SA8000 standard are met. A person from the non-management group shall be chosen to facilitate communication between management and non-management staff on the SA8000 standard
Planning
The company must ensure that the requirements on the SA8000 standard are fully understood, which includes the ILO agreement and recommendations and the local regulations as well. The company should use the following tools to support planning and implementation of SA8000: define clear roles, responsibilities and authority train new or temporary employees upon hire periodically train existing employees periodically run awareness programs A continuous monitoring of the system has to be designed to ensure that the system works as required and is effective
Implementation
The implementation requires a continuous monitoring of activities and the results to demonstrate compliance with SA8000 and related requirements. In addition, the standard requires the organization to : establish and maintain a procedure to evaluate the suppliers based on the requirements of SA8000 keep records of the suppliers commitment of social accountability including the written commitment to conform to all requirement of SA8000 (including this clause), to participate in the monitoring activities when requested, to address a von-conformance status
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promptly , and to inform the company of relevant changes in its relationship with suppliers and sub-contractors.
Checking and Corrective Actions
If specific requirements of the standard are not met, the company must undertake immediate corrective action and allocate resources to get back on the track. The company must investigate any concerns- either from internal or external sources- that point to a non-conformance issue. Any discriminative action against employees that report a non-conformance is strictly prohibited. To ensure that employees can freely address concerns it is advisable to assign a third party to whom employees can report their concern in strict confidence.
Management Review
A systematic and periodical review of the social management system should ensure that the system required by the SA8000 is adequate, sustained and effective. This review can be based on the internal audits or assessments respectively.
Communication
The company must establish procedures for third party communication which include access for verification of documents if required by contract. The communication includes the results of reviews, monitoring data, and the performance against the standard. Depending on the size of the company , it is advisable to publish this information regularly and communicate it not only to third parties but also to internal stakeholders.
Records
To facilitate outside verification and to demonstrate conformance, the company must keep records that demonstrate conformance with the standard.
10.1 Implementation: Plan -Do-Check-Act

SA8000 being a management system follows the classical Plan-Do-Check-Act principle. These four stages prepare the way for certification.
Preparing the Implementation
Before stating the implementation it is advisable to take some initial preparatory steps which should include an initial screening against the standard. In this process the existing social management system is assessed against the SA 8000 elements. The current practice and Green Tools Handbook
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procedures are benchmarked against the local regulatory requirements and the ILO recommendations and conventions. The outcome is a gap-analysis which is the core part of the report to be submitted to top-management Beside the initial assessment the report should include a first estimate of costs and benefits. Based on the report senior management has the appropriate information to decide whether to go on or stop the project.
Planning the Implementation
The first step in planning the implementation is the assignment of a management representative to be in charge of social accountability, the standard, and its requirements. The core element of every management system is a policy that gives guidance in strategic and day-to-day management decision and action. Based on this social policy and the initial social assessment, the company should determine social priorities and objectives. These priorities should be operationalized through social targets. To achieve these targets, action has to be taken by establishing social programs that improve the companys social performance.
Implementing: Do-Check-Act
To implement the SMS an organizational structure and clear responsibilities must be put in place. The person in charge of the SMS must establish a system for document and operational control and establish internal and external communication channels. A base documentation of the SMS is advisable. To make sure that the system works as intended the company should conduct training covering the requirements of the standard and the SMS itself. A continuous monitoring system should assure that the requirements of the standard are meet and corrective action is taken in case of non-conformance. Additionally to the internal monitoring a continuous control of suppliers and subcontractors is required by the standard. In that process the company should gather reasonable evidence that the social requirements laid out in SA 8000 are met by their business partners as well. On a mandatory basis the company can even expand this control to their customers. If the company discovers non-conformance with the standard immediate corrective action must be undertaken. Beside this continuous monitoring and control, the company should conduct a yearly social performance review. The review serves as the basis for a top - management review.
10.2 Certification
Once the SMS is in place and the organization is confident of having met all the requirements , the external audit and certification process can be initiated. This process requires multiple steps:
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The first task is to identify the suppliers of the organization to be audited. The audit team then prepares checklists that help to verify the conformance with the standard , local regulations and other requirements The next step is a site visit by the certification body to audit the company with respect to the requirements of the standard. The audit includes interview, inspections of facilities and records. The time requirement for a small company is as little as one day. Larger organizations can expect the audit to be conducted within several days. After the site visit, an audit report will be submitted to top- management including the results and recommendations for improvements. The last step is the issue of the certificate. The certificate is valid for three years. After conducting the first audit and the certificate is issued, the certification body will conduct the surveillance audits on a regular basis ( yearly follow-ups)
10.3 Costs
The costs of implementing SA 8000 are largely dependent on the company. Basically the cost can be divided into three categories: The cost of complying with ILO recommendation and agreements and local regulations can increase direct labour costs. Depending on the current conditions, there could be a need to invest in technical infrastructure to improve health and safety standards. This is likely to increase a companys overhead costs. The implementation of the SMS that is required by the standard will add some initial costs and the maintenance of the system is not free of charge either The smallest part of the overall costs are induced by the certification process.
10.4 Benefits of SA 8000 certification

All stakeholders will benefit from adhering to SA 8000 standards. With assistance from a thirdparty, the following can be achieved: Reduced risks Enhanced factory and brand reputation Qualify to customer requirements Improved supplier relationships Improved product quality due to enhanced work environment Improved labour conditions and safer work environment Clear and credible assurance for ethical purchasing decision The SA 8000 process and certification is one of the most successful and best known tools for ensuring decent work and working conditions.
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Product Certifications Comparison

11 OekoTex Standard 100 vs Ecolabel
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and Ecolabel share the same objective: to certify products according to specific environmental requirements and friendliness to the people and the environment. Yet, they are too often seen competitors.
11.1 What is the difference between Oeko -Tex Standard 100 and Ecolabel?
While Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and Ecolabel share more or less the same objective, they have some differences in a number of ways. Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Eco label Ecolabel is a voluntary label in order to provide customers with a quality guarantee they can trust. The criteria to be met are set at European level, based upon consultation with experts. The label is only awarded after the product proves that it meets these high environmental and performance standards. EU label - The label was designed as a special part of the action plan on Sustainable Consumption and Production and Sustainable Industrial Policy adopted by the Commission on 16 July 2008.. Meantime, the Joint Research Centre of the EU is working on the revision and further criteria development. The European Union Ecolabelling Board (EUEB) is made up of the Competent Bodies from each Member
Description
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production
Representative organisation
The International Oeko-Tex Association (comprised of 15 wellknown textile research and test institutes in Europe and Japan, responsible for the independent tests for harmful substances according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100.)
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State and the interested parties that form the Consultation Forum. Concept What is safe for man is also safe for the environment. The Textile Ecology, as a product certification aiming mainly in Human Ecology (concerning the effects that textiles and chemicals contained in them on the health and well being of the consumer). What is safe for the environment is also safe for man. The EU Ecolabel scheme is part of the sustainable consumption and production policy of the Community, which aims at reducing the negative impact of consumption and production on the environment, health, climate and natural resources. Regulation (EC) No 66/2010 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 25 November 2009 on the EU Ecolabel
Policy
Status
Internationally registered trademark of the Oeko-Tex Association protected in law by the Madrid Agreement. All textile products can apply for the label where all elements and techniques can be tested against the Oeko-Tex criteria. For group of similar products: Class I: products for babies Class II: products with direct contact with the skin Class III: products with no-direct contact with the skin Class IV: products for decorating and decorative purposes
Applicable products
All products (and services) can apply, not only textile.
Certificate issued for:
For specific products
Requirements All used techniques and elements must on all be certified in order to have the elements/techni product certified. ques used Environmental/ Environmental policy and health
The full impact of the product (from raw materials to production, distribution and disposal) on the environment must be examined and taken into account Focuses on safety issues, health issues
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Health/Social policy
aspects are taken into account, social and environmental policy policy is not. The focus of the label is to support the human ecological quality of textiles and a uniform safety standard for companies, to eliminate the potential harmful substances in textile products. COMMISSION DECISION 2009/567/EC establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the Community Ecolabel for textile products COMMISSION DECISION 2009/568/EC establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the Community Ecolabel for bed mattresses Application to National Competent Body Application contains information for the company, the process of manufacturing, the suppliers, the materials/chemicals used, the products to be certified Audit of the company Testing of the product(s) to be distributed in the market by the manufacturer Obligation to keep annual records for certified products (including testing)
Standard to be followed
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 (available at www.oeko-tex.com)
Application
Application to Institute-member only (one Institute in each country)
Application contains information for the company, the process of manufacturing, the suppliers, the materials/chemicals used, the Process for new products to be certified certification Company visit Testing of the product(s) to be distributed in the market by the manufacturer Retesting of certified product(s) annually Follow up Random testing of certified products from goods available in shops Unique numbered Oeko-Tex label Label referred to both product & company Product complies with all applicable legal requirements (i.e. REACH Regulation) and extra criteria proving friendliness to human skin
The EU flower
Legal compliance
Product fulfils legal requirements for EU market distribution
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Auditor
Oeko-Tex trained auditors in each Institute Chief Oeko-Tex auditor Audit is provisioned in all new companies & in all companies every three years. Random audits by chief OekoTex auditor are provisioned in each country every 3-4 years. Yes Oeko-Tex label (unique, identified per product group and company) One company may have different label for different product groups Through Oeko-Tex website with the number of the certificate:
Independent auditors appointed by National Body
Audits
Company audit on application usually re-audit every 3 years
Logo
Yes EU flower
Check validity on product
Through Eco-label website with name of the product or the manufacturer: http://www.ecolabel.com/default.htm
http://www.oekotex.com/OekoTex100 _PUBLIC/content.asp?area=hauptmenu e&site=gueltigkeitspruefung&cls=24 Products/Companies may be found in
Products/Companies may be found in Shopping guide: http://www.oekoPublicity The European Eco-label tex.com/OekoTex100_PUBLIC/conten Catalogue: http://www.ecot1.asp?area=hauptmenue&site=einka label.com/default.htm ufsfuehrer&cls=02&group=oetzgzertif ikatsinhaber Oeko-Tex web site advertising material for consumers, http://www.ecolabel.eu Publicity to informative material for different information material may be consumers type of products found in the Eco-label website for advertising material available on several types of products request of manufacturer by OekoTex Association Control by consumers is possible External Control by consumers is possible through the certificate check in communication through the Eco-label website www.oeko-tex.com
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12 Oeko-Tex Standard 100 vs GOTS

The major differences between Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and GOTS are the following: Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Description The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a globally uniform testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production GOTS The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. Textile processing, manufacturing and trading entities The International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard (comprised of 4 member organizations: namely OTA (USA), IVN (Germany), Soil Association (UK) and JOCA (Japan), plus further international stakeholder organizations and experts) Under no legal bases 100 - 95% organic can contain a maximum of 5% of other, nonorganic fibres 94 - 70% organic - can contain a maximum of 30% of other, nonorganic fibres Any textile product with the sufficient share of organic elements can apply for the label.
Who can apply
Textile or clothing manufacturers
The International Oeko-Tex Association (comprised of 15 wellknown textile research and test institutes in Europe and Japan, responsible for the independent tests for harmful substances according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100.)
Status Label versions (according to categories)
Under no legal bases I. Class: for baby II. Class: direct contact with skin III. Class: no direct contact with skin IV. Class: decoration materials
Applicable products
All textile products can apply for the label where all elements and techniques can be tested against the Oeko-Tex criteria. Bedding covers: the Oeko-Tex label
Exceptions
It is prohibited to use organic and
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may only be used visibly on the final non-organic fibres of the same product if both the cover and filling type (e.g. cotton) in one product. have been successfully tested The non-organic fibres may also according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100. include defined regenerated and For products where the full synthetic fibres, with some further production chain or all of the restrictions (this can reach a elements cannot be tested according maximum of 25% in case of socks, to the Oeko-Tex criteria catalogue leggings and sportswear and 10% (e.g. shoes, furniture, etc), the for all other textile products). product cannot be visibly marked with the Oeko-Tex label in order to avoid misleading the consumer, except for: Safety belts for cars Pushchair covers Cushions for sun loungers and garden furniture Seat cushions available as separate retail items All used techniques and elements must be certified in order to have the product certified. Environmental policy and health aspects are taken into account, social policy is not. The focus of the label is to support the human ecological quality of textiles and a uniform safety standard for companies, to eliminate the potential harmful substances in textile products. Application follows a set procedure to which all authorised Oeko-Tex test institutes are bound. The cost for Oeko-Tex certification consists of the licensing fee, costs for company visits by the commissioned testing institute, as well as lab costs
Requirements on all elements
All used elements must be certified in order to have the product certified. Aims at supporting the organic status of textiles (from the early steps: harvesting of the raw materials), through the manufacturing (environmental and social aspects) until the product reaches the end consumer.
Environmental/ Health/Social policy
Application and fees
Initial request and application for GOTS certification is to be addressed to a GOTS Approved Certification Body. Each certified entity must pay a licence fee (from 2011, set at 120 Euro for each facility that is inspected for the
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certified entity). Testing principles The laboratory tests currently comprise around 100 test parameters and are based on international test standards ("Oeko-Tex Standard 200 testing procedures") and other recognised testing procedures. The International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard (IWG) has developed its own accreditation system for this approval process as well as for continuous monitoring of the approved Certification Bodies, as outlined in the document Approval Procedure and Requirements for Certification Bodies. Exists. The company has to remedy the manufacturing procedure in order to still use the label. No legal statement is needed.
Non-compliance procedure
Exists. The company has to remedy the manufacturing procedure in order to still use the label. Legal statement is needed that the sample products (sent for testing) are identical with the manufactured products. No
Legal statements
Management review
As not only environmental but social principles are also targeted, the management of the company (especially regarding labour policy, labour rights) is also reviewed. Contractors and suppliers can certify given elements which adds to the quality of the final product. All operators of the processing and manufacturing chain as well as traders up to the import stage must be GOTS certified.
Contractors and suppliers
Contractors and suppliers can certify given elements, but with the introduction of any new element to the final product, a re-testing is necessary. If the licence holder works with other companies or importers, he may delegate parts of the quality assurance to these parties. The certification is based on sample materials sent for testing, but on-site audits are also possible.
Audits
On-site audits
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External audition Logo
Yes Yes
No Yes
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13 GOTS vs Ecolabel
Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) is the basic tool for an international common understanding of environmental friendly production systems and social accountability in the organic textile sector and Ecolabel certifies products according to specific environmental requirements and friendliness to the people and the environment. GOTS standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of textiles made of natural fibres, while Ecolabel scheme refers to product certification of not only natural products but to products that have been produced with environment-respectful processes. What is the difference between GOTS certification and Ecolabel? GOTS Concept Ecolabel
Save natural resources & Social Criteria What is safe for the environment is Sustainability of the environment. also safe for man. Ecology & Social Responsibility: ensuring organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer Only textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibres The EU Ecolabel scheme is part of the sustainable consumption and production policy of the Community, which aims at reducing the negative impact of consumption and production on the environment, health, climate and natural resources. Several categories of products, like pcs, refrigerators, dyes, etc. among them textile products, like clothing and bed matresses
Policy
Product
Certificate issued for:
Organic natural fibres products only For specific products manufactured of (at least 70% in final product, excluding natural or synthetic fibres accessories) Label-grade 1: organic 95% certified organic fibres, 5 % non-organic natural or synthetic fibres Label-grade 2: made with X% organic 70% certified organic fibres, 30 % non organic fibres, but a maximum of 10% synthetic fibres (up to 25% for
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socks, leggings and sportswear)
Status
Trade name of International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard GOTS approved certifiers, http://www.globalstandard.org/certification/approvedcertification-bodies.html The GOTS standard; latest versions available in GOTS website
Regulation of the European Parliament and the Council under public law.
Organisation
National Competent Bodies (http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ec olabel/contacts/competent_bodies_e n.htm) COMMISSION DECISION 2009/567/EC establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the Community Ecolabel for textile products COMMISSION DECISION 2009/568/EC establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the Community Ecolabel for bed mattresses Application to National Competent Body
Standard to be followed
Application
Application to Certification Body recognized by the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard
Process for new Application to a Certification Application contains information Body for the company, the process of certification Develop an Organic Handling and manufacturing, the suppliers, the Production Plan respecting criteria of materials/chemicals used, the the standard products to be certified Audit by a trained organic Audit of the company Inspector Testing of the product(s) to be distributed in the market by the manufacturer Criteria Processing, manufacturing, Raw materials, processing, packaging, labelling, trading and chemicals used composition, concerning: distribution performance of product Follow up Annual inspections by site Obligation to keep annual records for certified products (including testing)
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Label
GOTS logo with Certifiers identity & producers Licence Number
The EU flower
Check validity on product
Through Eco-label website with name of the product or the manufacturer: http://www.ecolabel.com/default.htm
Legal compliance Publicity
All organic products comply with legal requirements. Products/Companies may be found in GOTS public database: http://www.globalstandard.org/public-database.html Information Centre in www.globalstandard.org/informationcentre.html
Product fulfils legal requirements for EU market distribution Products/Companies may be found in The European Eco-label Catalogue: http://www.ecolabel.com/default.htm http://www.ecolabel.eu information material may be found in the Eco-label website for several types of products Control by consumers is possible through the Eco-label website
Publicity to consumers
External communication Auditor Audits
only trained organic INSPECTORS, Independent auditors appointed accredited by Certification Bodies by National Body At least annual inspection by site Company audit on application usually re-audit every 3 years Yes EU flower EU Eco-Management and Audit Scheme
Logo Further certification
Yes GOTS Logo
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14 Organic Exchange vs GOTS

Although both labels are targeting organic textile products, there are significant differences between them:
Organic Exchange (OE) Description The OE 100 Standard is a standard for tracking and documenting the purchase, handling and use of 100% certified organic cotton fibre in yarns, fabrics and finished goods. GOTS The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. The International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard (comprised of 4 member organizations: namely OTA (USA), IVN (Germany), Soil Association (UK) and JOCA (Japan), plus further international stakeholder organizations and experts) Under no legal bases 100 - 95% organic can contain a maximum of 5% of other, nonorganic fibres 94 - 70% organic - can contain a maximum of 30% of other, nonorganic fibres Any textile product with the sufficient share of organic elements can apply for the label. It is prohibited to use organic and non-organic fibres of the same type (e.g. cotton) in one product. The non-organic fibres may also include defined regenerated and synthetic fibres, with some further restrictions (this can reach a
OE, Organic Exchange was founded in the US (Texas), but by now it has grown to being a successful non-profit organisation with a global multi-stakeholder approach to developing markets in the textile value chain. It has a European office (Upperwood, Freshford, Co. Kilkenny, Ireland). Under no legal bases. OE 100 Standard for organic cotton products and OE Blended Standard for mixed, blended textile products containing organic cotton elements
Status Label versions (according to categories)
Applicable products
Only products containing cotton
Exceptions
Non-organic cotton cannot be among the elements, not even in a small percent
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maximum of 25% in case of socks, leggings and sportswear and 10% for all other textile products). Environmental/ Health/Social policy Focuses on environmental policy. Aims at supporting the organic status of textiles (from the early steps: harvesting of the raw materials), through the manufacturing (environmental and social aspects) until the product reaches the end consumer. Initial request and application for GOTS certification is to be addressed to a GOTS Approved Certification Body. Each certified entity must pay a licence fee (from 2011, set at 120 Euro for each facility that is inspected for the certified entity). Yes
Application and fees
In order to use the label, the company must pay a membership fee. The different levels of membership start from contributor (USD 500-1000) , include supporter (USD 2500 -5000) and reach partnership (USD 10 000 -25000).
Logo
Yes
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System Certifications Comparison

15 ISO 14001 vs EMAS vs Oeko -Tex Standard 1000
ISO 14001 : 2004 Status Under no legal bases. (International: worldwide) ISO standard under private law EMAS Under legal bases (EU Member States and EEA countries). Regulation of the European Parliament and the Council under public law Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 Under no legal bases. (International: worldwide) Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 - normative document published by the "OekoTex International - Association for the Assessment of Environmentally Friendly Textiles", located in Zurich, an association of independent European textile testing institutes.
Organisation
Does not go towards entities or sites
The entity to be registered shall not exceed the boundaries of the Member State, and it is intended to go towards entities and sites
Textile companies in all production steps (spinning up to ready made garment ) Precondition: 30% of the products have to be certified according OekoTex Standard 100 Included commitment to continual improvement of environmental performance of the enterprise in its activities, production, products and performances
Environmental policy
Does not include a commitment to the continual improvement of environmental performance but of the performance of the system Initial review is recommended, but not required
Included commitment to continual improvement of environmental performance of the organization
Initial environmental review
Obligatory preliminary review, when it is the first time that the organization sets its environmental status
Obligatory first environmental examination , when the organization sets its current state of environmental performance Identification and evaluation of the environmental aspects. Establishment of criteria and limiting values for testing and auditing of
Environmental aspects
Required only a Identification and evaluation procedure able to identify of the environmental aspects (direct and indirect). environmental aspects Establishment of criteria for assessing the significance of
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the environmental aspects
textile, clothing companies and ancillary industries Obligatory to demonstrate it. Required full legal compliance. There is a compliance-audit Not open dialogue with the public. It is required to communicate with interested parties on matters related to its environmental management policy, performance and effects. Public Environmental Report in regular intervals
Legal compliance
Only commitment to comply with applicable legal requirements. There is no compliance-audit Not open dialogue with the public. Only is required to respond to relevant communication from external interested parts. Control by public is not possible
Obligatory to demonstrate it. Required full legal compliance. There is a compliance-audit Open dialogue with the public. Public Environmental Statement (validated for verifiers)
External communication
Continual improvement
Required periodically improvement without a defined frequency Required an environmental performance in the management, but not through a performance audit Relevant procedures are communicated to contractors and suppliers No
Required annual improvement
Required annual improvement
Management review
Is wider and requires an evaluation of the environmental performance of the organization, based in a performance-audit
Requires an evaluation of the environmental performance of the organization, based in a performanceaudit
Contractors and suppliers
Required influence over contractors and suppliers
Relevant procedures are communicated to contractors and suppliers Active involvement of employees and their representatives
Employees involvement Internal environmental auditing
Active involvement of employees and their representatives Includes: system-audit, a performance-audit (= evaluation of environmental performance) and an environmental complianceaudit (= determination of legal compliance)
Included only system audit against the requirements of the standard
Includes: system-audit, a performance-audit (= evaluation of environmental performance) and an environmental compliance-audit (= determination of Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 compliance)
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Auditor
Advised the independence of the auditor Check environmental system performance. No frequency required
Required the independence of the auditor
Required the independence of the auditor
Audits
Check for improvement of Environmental performance. Frequency required: 3 year cycle during which all areas are verified at least once Accredited environmental verifiers Verifiers accredited according to NACE codes
Check for improvement of environmental performance Frequency required: every year for first 3 years, followed by 1,5 years Independent auditors of the Oeko-Tex International Association Certifiers officially authorized by Oeko Tex International Association for the Assessment of Environmentally Friendly Textiles No obligation
External verification Verification/ Certification Scope
No
Certifiers accredited according to EAC code
Authorities are informed Logo
No obligation
Obligation by Validation of Environmental Statement Yes
No
Yes
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16 SA8000 vs Oeko-Tex Standard 1000

The principles detailed in SA8000 and Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 address working conditions and workers rights. SA8000 principles are based on and adhere to all ILO conventions. Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 does not refer to ILO standards or pretend to fashion itself after ILO conventions, but some principles do comply with them. In accordance with ILO Convention 138 that prohibits the employment of workers under age 15 or compulsory schooling age, if it is lower, SA8000 and Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 sets a minimum age requirement of 15 In accordance with ILO Convention 87 and 98 concerning freedom of association and collective bargaining, SA 8000 and Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 both require management to allow workers to join trade unions and bargain collectively In accordance with ILO Convention concerning working hours, SA8000 and Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 both require that normal working hours be no more than 48 a week, and overtime no more than 12 The SA8000, citing ILO Minimum Wage Fixing Convention 131, requires to pay workers a living wage, which it defines as one that meets basic needs and provides discretionary income. Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 requires to pay workers at least the local minimum wage. This appears to distance SA8000 from Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 The SA8000 and Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 health and safety requirements are similar
SA8000 Social Accountability 8000 Social Accountability International (SAI) OEKO-Tex Standard 1000 ( Social criteria) Oeko-Tex International Association for the Assessment of Environmentally Friendly Textiles 1995 Textile (research) institutes
Administered by
In operation since Initiative
1997 Multi-stakeholder initiative: Social Accountability International (SAI), trade unions, multinational enterprises, NGOs, academics, investment companies and third party certification bodies Social (labor/ILO conventions) General, including textile and clothing No workers under the age of 15; minimum lowered to 14 for countries operating under the ILO Convention 138 developing-country exception;
Focus Sector Child Labor
Environmentally friendly production Textile The minimum age shall comply with the ILO- Convention no . 138 of the International Labor Organization
84
remediation of any child found to be working Forced Labor No forced labor, including prison or debt bondage labor; no lodging of deposits or identity papers by employers or outside recruiters Provide a safe and healthy work environment; take steps to prevent injuries; regular health and safety worker training; system to detect threats to health and safety; access to bathrooms and potable water No forced labor. No lodging of deposits or identity papers by employers or outside recruiters
Health and Safety
Provide a safe and healthy work environment; introduce provisional measures to prevent injuries; occupational training to sustain health and safety; system to detect threats to health and safety; access to bathrooms and potable water Respect the right to form and join labor unions and collective bargaining; where law prohibits these freedoms, facilitate parallel means of free association and bargaining No discrimination based on race, caste, origin, religion, disability, gender, sexual orientation, union or political affiliation, or age; no sexual harassment No corporal punishment, mental or physical coercion or verbal abuse Comply with the applicable law regarding working time but, in any event, no more than 48 h per week with at least one day off for every 7 day period; voluntary overtime paid at a premium rate and not to exceed 12 hours per week on a regular basis; overtime may be voluntary if part of a collective bargaining agreement Wages paid for a standard work week must meet the legal and
Freedom of Association and Right to Collective Bargaining
Respect the right to form and join trade unions and bargain collectively; where law prohibits these freedoms, facilitate parallel means of association and bargaining
Discrimination
No discrimination based on race, caste, origin, religion, disability, gender, sexual orientation, union or political affiliation, or age; no sexual harassment No corporal punishment, mental or physical coercion or verbal abuse Comply with the applicable law but, in any event, no more than 48 hours per week with at least one day off for every seven day period; voluntary overtime paid at a premium rate and not to exceed 12 hours per week on a regular basis; overtime may be mandatory if part of a collective bargaining agreement
Discipline
Working Hours
Remuneration
Wages paid for a standard work week must meet the legal and industry
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Environment
standards and be sufficient to meet the basic need of workers and their families; no disciplinary deductions Not addressed
industry standards; no disciplinary deductions. Must have an environmental management system that prevents and control harmful emissions Must prove that the social criteria demanded by Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 are fulfilled
Management
Management defines policy, appoints a senior management representative to enforce principles, allow workers to elect a worker representative to facilitate communication concerning standard between management and workers, workers must be regularly trained (annually) on policy
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17 ISO 14001 vs ISO 9001

Environmental policy ISO 14001:2004 requirements for an environmental policy are more detailed than ISO 9001:2008 requirements for quality policies. Some specific commitments must be made in environmental policies and sufficient information included to demonstrate the relevance of the policy to the environmental impacts of the organisation. The environmental policy must be publicly available. Because of these differences it is likely that environmental and quality policies will be separate, but complementary statements. Environmental Aspects ISO 14001 requires procedures to identify and assess the significance of environmental aspects and impacts. There is no direct parallel in ISO 9001 but a lot of the information and procedures in an ISO 9001 system will be relevant when identifying and assessing aspects and impacts. Legal and Other Requirements ISO 14001 requires procedures to comprehensively identify and have access to information about an organisations regulatory and other obligations. Is no similar comprehensive requirement in ISO 9001. However, design control clauses in ISO 9001 have a requirement to identify regulatory requirements for a design and the process control clauses have a general requirement to comply with reference standards and codes. Objectives, Targets and Programmes ISO 9001 requires objectives for quality to be included in the quality policy. The ISO 14001 requirements are considerably more detailed. Separate environmental objectives and targets need to be set at all relevant levels in the organisation and they need to be kept up to date. ISO 14001 requires formal, documented environmental management programmes setting out how environmental objectives and targets are to be achieved. Is no similar requirement in ISO 9001 for such a comprehensive programme. However, requirements for quality plans and for design plans do have some similarities. Structure and Responsibility Both ISO standards require responsibilities to be defined and written down. A single set of job descriptions, covering environmental and quality responsibilities could be developed. Training, Awareness and Competence Both standards require training needs to be identified and procedures to provide training. Both also require people to be competent/qualified for the tasks they carry out. ISO 14001 has some very specific requirements for basic environmental awareness training that need to be met.
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Communication ISO 14001, recognizing that there is a range of interested parties for an EMS, requires procedures for internal and external communication. There is no similar requirement in ISO 9001 but some parallels could be drawn with procedures for contract review, where customer requirements are clarified and reviewed. Environmental Management System Documentation Both standards require the management systems to be documented. ISO14001 provides more flexibility than ISO 9001. It does not specifically require a manual. There is opportunity to develop a single set of documents or manuals to cover the requirements of both standards. Document Control Both standards require procedures to control management system documents. A single document control system should be developed to meet the requirements of both standards. Operational Control In ISO 14001, operational control is concerned with control of operations and processes that are associated with significant environmental aspects. The means for control (documented procedures, setting performance criteria) are similar to those for process control in ISO 9001. The approach taken for process control in a quality management system could be used in an environmental management system but the specific activities and purpose of the control will be different. ISO 14001 operational control will also overlap with a number of other parts of the quality system, for example: purchasing and product identification. Emergency Preparedness and Response ISO 14001 requires formal procedures for emergencies. There is no similar general requirement in ISO 9001 but some parallels exist with the ISO 9001 corrective and preventive action requirements. Monitoring and Measurement ISO 14001 requires procedures to monitor and measure operations with significant environmental impacts, progress on objectives and targets and regulatory compliance. There are some direct parallels with ISO 9001 requirements for inspection and testing but matters being monitored will be different Evaluation of Compliance ISO 14001 requires organisations to retain records of the periodic evaluation of all legal and other requirements. This means every piece of legislation/regulation relating to the organisations environmental aspects will need to be evaluated. Non-conformance and Corrective and Preventive Action Both standards require procedures to deal with non-conformances and to initiate corrective and preventive
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action. The nature of an environmental non-conformance and appropriate action will usually be different from quality non-conformances but the same procedures should be able to cover both. Records Both standards require records systems and procedures to control records. A single records system should be developed to meet the requirements of both standards. Environmental Management - System Audits Both standards require regular internal auditing, with formal procedures and schedules. A single auditing schedule and set of procedures could be developed. Additional guidance may be needed in procedures about methods and personnel to be used in environmental audits. Management Review Both standards require regular management review. The review required by ISO 14001 is, however, considerably more wide ranging than that required by ISO 9001.
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For more information, please, visit our site www.texeastile.eu or contact your local partner:

Euroimpresa Legnano, www.euroimpresa.it Mrs Silvia Pozzi CENTROCOT, www.centrocot.it Cotton Textile and Clothing Centre, Mrs Daniela Debuloni CESTEC S.p.a., www.cestec.it Regional Centre for the Technological Development, Energy and Competitiveness of SMEs, Mr Alessandro Chiesa MIRTEC SA (CLOTEFI), www.etakei.gr, Materials Industrial Research and Technology Centre SA, Mrs Fani Kotzia SEPEE, www.greekfashion.gr Hellenic Fashion Industry Association, Mr Theofilos Aslanidis PBN, www.pbn.hu Pannon Business Network Association, Mrs Szilvia Bauer PSZK, www.bdtf.hu/pszk Regional Pedagogical Service Centre, Mrs Zsuzsanna Viraghne INCDTP, www.ccib.ro The National Research & Development Institute for Textile and Leather, Mrs Doina Toma CCIB, www. ccib.ro Bucharest Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Mrs Ana Dulgheru BCCI, www.bcci.bg Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Mr. Atanas Naydenov UCTM, www.uctm.edu University of Chemical Technology & Metallurgy - Sofia, Mrs Gergana Ikova SERDA, www.serda.ba Sarajevo Economic Region development Agency, Mrs Belma Pai

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Green Tools Handbook for Textile Industries

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1.1 Key Criteria

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Green Tools Handbook

1.2 Quality Assurance System

1.3 Steps to be followed

Select the product group to be certified Building up the dossier

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Awarding of the EU Ecolabel

1.4 Other Important Information

Costs for the certification

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2.1 Key Criteria

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The two labels grades

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2.2 Quality Assurance System

2.3 Steps to be followed

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2.4 Other Important Information

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3 OekoTex Standard 100

3.1 Key Criteria

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3.2 Quality Assurance System

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3.3 Steps to be followed

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3.4 Other Important Information

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4.1 OE 100 Standard

Requirements The OE 100 Standard requires companies to:

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4.2 OE Blended Standard

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Green Tools Handbook

So, which one?

Eligibility Implementation Costs

Pubblication Recertification Frequency Environmental Benefits

Stages of Standardized EMS

Environmental Policy Environmental Objectives and Targets EM Programme

Implementation and Operation

Check and Review

Checks and Corrective Action On-going Review & Improvement

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Green Tools Handbook

Implementation and operation

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Green Tools Handbook

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6.1 The main stages of EMAS

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EMAS continuous improvement diagram

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Green Tools Handbook