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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

December 2013 - January 2014
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

The ultimate guide to what to buy in Bucharest

Spend It!

Old Town Bucharest
A look at Bucharest’s most vibrant entertainment district

New & Improved Maps
Getting around Bucharest just got easier

N°86 - 15.00 lei




Bucharest Basics
6 Everything you always wanted to know about Bucharest and Romania, but were afraid to ask 11 16 22

Arrival & Transport
Navigating Bucharest

Culture & Events
Including a look at Romania’s winter traditions

Ski Romania
Romania’s top ski resorts reviewed

What to Buy in Bucharest 26 Avoid going home with a load of old tourist crap Where to Stay
From palaces of gold to bargain sleeps 30
Traditional Romanian dishes on sale at a craft market held at the end of November at the Peasant Museum. For more ideas on what to buy in Bucharest - and where - see pages 26-29.

Where to eat


Nightlife 62
Clubs, bars, pubs and the like

What to see Where to spend your days 65

Old Town / Lipscani
The heart and soul of the city




Happy holidays from iCentre. Find the perfect gift and you can win an iPad Air. *
Promenada, 1st Floor 246B Calea Floreasca, 1st District, Bucharest |
TM & © 2013 Apple Inc. All rights reserved. *Subject to terms and conditions, while supplies last. For more info, visit the store or

Everything you need including foreign embassies, pharmacies and dentists.

Maps & Street Register
The suburb of Pantelimon may not be everyone’s first choice of places to visit in Bucharest, but there’s now a very good reason to go there: see page 71.

Northern Bucharest Central & Southern Bucharest Street Register & Hotel Map Index

94 96 98

December 2013 - January 2014


Bucharest does winter well. Very well. For anyone brought up in a country like Britain, which gets its knickers in a twist at the first sign of a light dusting of snow, the sight of Bucharest’s trams and buses running when the snow is metres deep and it’s blowing a blizzard is a thing of wonder. Last year - the snowiest winter for decades - RATB (the Bucharest public transport operator) kept the city moving: buses and trams kept going when even the biggest four wheel drives had to be left in the garage. Of course, it is not all good news. The city is famously bad at clearing snow from pavements, and no sooner has the white stuff stopped falling than it starts melting, the fresh powder that was such fun for five minutes turning quickly to a dirty mush that renders many streets impassable and which makes it downright impossible to cross some roads. Yet winter fun in Bucharest is found easily: locals love to ice skate in the open air, so you will find floodlit ice rinks in most of the city’s parks. The most central ice rink is that in Cismigiu. All rinks have small huts hiring out skates by the hour for a modest fee, and a post-skate mulled wine is compulsory.
Bucharest In Your Pocket Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3 Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8 014191 Bucuresti, Romania Tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18

ISSN 1454-5276 © IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of Circulation (BRAT). Editorial Editor Craig Turp Photography © IYP Romania Srl unless otherwise stated. Cover photo © Craig Turp/IYP Romania Srl. Metro map by Maximilian Turp-Balazs from an idea by Alexander Sirbu. Sales To contact our sales team send an email to, or call our office and ask for the sales department. Copyright notice
Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 19992014 unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of its review, without written permission from the copyright owner. The trademark In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernadinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Cover story
The Pantelimon Art Tower is one of the most original cultural projects in Bucharest for many a year. Found in the east of Bucharest, in the Pantelimon area of the capital, you can read more about the tower - and how you can visit - on page 71. Photo by Craig T urp

Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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It’s now nearly 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent, and we will be expanding even further in 2014 with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg in South Africa: our first guide outside Europe. What‘s more, early in 2014 our already terrific guides will be getting a fresh new look, designed to offer our readers a better experience. The roll-out of this new look begins in February. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook ( faceb inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (

Bucharest In Your Pocket


Crime & Safety
We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs fighting for the control of territory in the city’s less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny. While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particularly careful on crowded buses, and always watch your bag in busy pubs and clubs), petty thieves are by and large a cowardly lot in Romania and will run a mile at the first sign of any resistance. Knife-crime is unheard of, and even women can walk the city’s streets alone at night in relative safety. The Romanian police force is also far better and less corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on the city’s streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and Piata Victoriei. In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharest’s many, many problems, crime really is one of the least of them. Just keep your wits about you, apply common sense and all will be well.

A brief history of Bucharest (2)
In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada Smardan, Wallachia’s nascent parliament elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as the principality’s new ruler. Given that the Moldovian parliament had elected the same man to be their leader a few days before, the vote at the Concordia in effect created the first state of Romania. Nevertheless, it would be another 19 years (and require another Russo-Turkish War) before Romania was officially able to declare itself independent of Turkey, in 1878. Bucharest grew - and flourished - during the reign of Carol I (1866-1914), Romania’s first king. Electricity was introduced in 1882, and the city hosted a grand exhibition, Romania in the World, in 1906, designed to show how much progress the country was making. The Carol Park in southern Bucharest was built to host the fair. During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Europe’s most dynamic cities, and architecturally one of its most avant-garde. Large numbers of art deco buildings were constructed around the city. The Lido and Ambassador hotels on Bulevardul Magheru, as well as the Telephone Palace on Calea Victoriei are just three examples of this new wave. The Bucharest we know today, however, is as much the product of the communist period, from 1944 to 1989, as anything. Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter part of World War II (the old national theatre, which stood on Calea Victoriei, was one victim of this bombing) but in comparison with much of Europe, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist authorities therefore initially made their mark on the city not by changing it but by greatly extending it. The first major project was the district of Bucurestii Noi, constructed at the beginning of the 1950s. It was followed by the vast housing estates of Militari and Titan, huge dormitories for workers shipped in from the countryside to staff the newly created industrial platforms of Industriilor, Republica and IMGB. The city’s population doubled from 900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million by 1980. In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the city’s history killed more than 1,500 people. The country’s best-loved actor, Toma Caragiu, was amongst those killed. Many buildings were destroyed or damaged beyond repair, and Romania’s leader Nicolae Ceausescu took the opportunity to remodel the city in his own vision. By 1989 almost a third of Bucharest had been destroyed to make way for the new Centru Civic, the centrepiece of which was Casa Poporului, today known as Palatul Parlamentului. Construction on the Centru Civic began in 1984, and some parts remain incomplete today, lost in limbo. The enormous Casa Radio (A-5) on Strada Stirbei Voda is one such building. Bucharest was the scene of the heaviest fighting during the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred on Piata Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni Airport. Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to grow, although much of that growth has been outside the city limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9 million (2011 census).


A brief history of Bucharest (1)
While there are traces of settlements around Bucharest dating back to the Paleolithic period, the city itself is in fact relatively new: mention of it is not made until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler), ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur, founded the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu Voda (also known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wallachia from c. 1290-1300. It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real size, when it became the preferred site of the Wallachian court. This was based in what is today known as the Old Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was sacked for the first time in 1476, by the Moldavian ruler Stephen the Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in 1554. During Mihai Bravu’s uprising against the Turks in 1594, Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei Basarab in the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and the princely court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the Transylvanians) Bucharest suffered plague and famine for much of the rest of the 1600s. It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Constantin Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucharest’s fortunes. Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the Hapsburgs and Russians - keeping the Turks at bay while overseeing a cultural renaissance at home. It was during his reign that the Brancovenesc-style (a mix of the Renaissance and the Byzantine) so popular with the city’s architects for centuries after first appeared. The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714: ordered to Constantinople to account for himself he was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. No longer trusting local Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they came from the Greek district of Constantinople, Phanar) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During this time the city grew in size and importance, despite regular disasters: both natural and man-made. The Austrian army occupied the city from 1789-91, there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804 and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14. As many as 40,000 people died in Wallachia during the plague. While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9 left Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Russian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed to govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened man and a moderniser who during his 14 years in charge of the city (1829-1843) oversaw sweeping changes. He carved out new boulevards (one of which, Sos. Kiseleff, today carries his name), paved many roads, introduced running water and a sewerage system, did the city’s first proper census, built schools and hospitals and centralised the city’s chaotic fire-fighting service.

A new look for In Your Pocket
Never a publisher to rest on our laurels, we have spent the past few months hunkered down in frenzied activity readying a brand new look for In Your Pocket. Yes, courtesy of a crack team of top designers, your favourite city guides have had a bit of a makeover; we will be rolling out the new design during the first part of 2014. Many of the changes we have made are a result of the many comments we have had from readers over the past couple of years, sharing their thoughts with us about how the guides can be improved. As such, the new look is a welcome change that brings renewed modernity, freshness and vivacity to our award-winning publications. Look out for the new-look In Your Pocket soon.

Customs Regulations

While Romania joined the European Union (EU) in 2007, which should facilitate the complete, unfettered movement of goods between member countries, United Kingdom customs officers appear not to have noticed. As such you are only permitted to take 200 cheap cigarettes purchased in Romania to the UK with you (we feel obliged to point out, however, that you will be passing through the blue channel on arrival in the UK and the chances of being stopped are almost zero...). If you are travelling elsewhere in the EU, there are no limits on the amount of cigarettes you can bring home from Romania. Alcohol is likewise unrestricted. For those of you travelling outside of the EU when leaving Romania, you should check the import limits on fags and booze with your destination country before travelling. The export of some antiques purchased in Romania (especially old religious icons) is subject to the completion of tedious paperwork, although any reputable antiques store or dealer will be able to take care of this for you. Ask when buying if you are not sure.


When Things Go Wrong
In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city code, whether calling from a landline or a mobile. You wll be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should speak English or French but in our experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you know the name of the street you are calling from. If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to call your embassy. There is a list on page 90. The city‘s main police station is the new building at (B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84. The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to Dinamo Stadium. More details in the Health box on page 10. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 93, and an English speaking Dentist on page 90.

It was once written that you couldn’t swing a cat in Bucharest without hitting a dog (by us, in fact, in our first issue, some 14 years ago) and it remains true - up to a point. According to a census carried out by the city council last year there are still more than 64,000 stray dogs on Bucharest’s streets (64,704 to be precise), although the vast majority are found outside of the city centre. There are still some packs of dogs in the city centre (Old Town has its fair share of strays) but these tend to be less aggressive than those which live in the city’s suburbs. However, the number of people being bitten each year in the city is rising. In 2012 more than 16,000 people were bitten by Bucharest’s strays, an increase of more than 30 per cent on 2011. Despite this, there appears to be little real urgency about any of the efforts being made to eradicate the problem. Indeed, to all intents and purposes the city council has washed its hands of the issue. Add in the fact that a large and vociferous minority of Bucharest’s citizens actually want the dogs to remain on the streets and it becomes clear that the problem will not be dealt with anytime soon. There are also a number of well-funded animal-rights NGOs which reject any proposal to rid the city of its dogs. All of these factors combined to tragic ef fect in September 2013, when a four-year-old boy was killed by a pack of strays on some waste ground next to a park in northern Bucharest. This awful incident (the boy is the third person to be killed by strays in the Romanian capital over the past few years) immediately prompted the authorities to pass new legislation designed to eradicate dogs from Romania’s streets once and for all. It remains to be seen, however, if local councils - including that in Bucharest - will act upon it. Should the worst come to the worst and you are bitten during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once

Bucharest In Your Pocket

December 2013 - January 2014


National Holidays
December 1 December 25, 26 January 1, 2014 April 21, 2014 May 1, 2014 June 23, 2014 August 15, 2014 National Day (Union Day) Christmas New Year’s Day Easter Monday Labour Day Pentecost St. Mary’s Day

Local laws & Police

If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas) leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to speak to your embassy. There is a list on page 90.


to the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr. Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021 318 60 90. The wound will be cleaned up, and you will be administered both an anti-tetanus and an anti-rabies vaccine (the anti-rabies injection is the first of a course three: the others must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You will also get a prescription for a course of antibiotics. Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no luggage lockers. You will find the left luggage counter opposite the Wasteels office, a short walk from the platforms. The charge is cursory: 5 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a bigger bag. Note that the office can keep irregular hours (with staff taking breaks seemingly willy-nilly), so always make sure there will be someone on hand to give you back your bag when you want to pick it up. There are not currently any left luggage facilities at Otopeni airport.

Romania’s currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100 bani. Notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5 bani coins. The best place to get your hands on Romanian money is at an ATM. If you really do have to change cash, then please ensure that you do it inside a bank. Credit and debit cards (MasterCard and Visa at least) are accepted almost everywhere. American Express and Diners Club cards are less widely accepted.

Left Luggage


So where am I exactly?
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of the world which will - to those of a certain age - always be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate to describe Bucharest’s geographical location as southeastern Europe. Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one of the three historic principalities which make up the modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania). Romania as a nation state is relatively new: while Moldavia and Wallachia have been united as a single country since 1859, Romania took on its modern form only on December 1st, 1918, when the Romanians of Transylvania voted to join in the fun. The official population of Bucharest is just under two million people, but as many migrants from the rest of the country do not bother to register as citizens of the capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three million. Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69 kilometres to the south), the border between Romania and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well worth a day trip if you are at a loose end. Alas you will need a car, as train services between Bucharest and Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor. Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta and the Black Sea coast, and now that the A2 motorway goes all the way to the Black Sea port, the journey can be done in just over two hours. Like most trains in Romania, the Bucharest - Constanta service is slow and it takes almost three hours. To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of Romania’s oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian Mountains, a two hour drive away.

The Romanian political scene has been relatively sensible lately, but then given how last year saw local elections, a presidential impeachment referendum and a general election, it was always likely to be so. The government, made up of an alliance of the Social Democrats (PSD) and the Liberals (PNL; together called the Social Liberal Union, or USL) and led by Victor Ponta, has managed to so far peacefully coexist with its erstwhile foe, the president Traian Basescu. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, the USL has more than 65 per cent of seats in parliament and can pretty much do what it wants. Secondly, Basescu’s second term ends soon, and he cannot run for a third. Unless the USL splits we expect the political scene to remain steady until campaigning begins for the presidential election (to be held in November 2014).

A Word From Bucharest’s Mayor
I am one of the over two million inhabitants of Bucharest. This is where I was born, and where I grew up. I know both the bright and dark sides of every nook and cranny. I have learned the history of each stone, and experienced romance while wandering in Herastrau Park or admiring the city by night. I have traveled a lot, but I have always come back home with infinite joy in order to discover my Bucharest over and over again. I am sure that there would have been no better place in Romania to build my medical career, with all the professional and academic opportunities that a capital city like Bucharest can offer. Yet I understood that for everything you get in this life you have to give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in. Bucharest is Romania’s most important cultural, economic, financial and political centre. It generates more than 20 per cent of the country’s GDP and is inhabited by more than 10 per cent of the Romanian population. All major financial and political institutions are based here. As one of 27 - soon to be 28 - European capitals, Bucharest is eager to share its cultural heritage with the community and the whole world. I therefore invite you to explore this wonderful city, to discover its mystery and take its pulse: Bucharest is always ready to surprise and impress its guests with its eternal and motley poetry. Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest

Bucharest In Your Pocket

30 lei (€0. the best place to buy international train tickets in Bucharest is Wasteels. These cards cannot be bought on board.Sofia Flying to Sofia from Bucharest costs around €180.21 $ Some trusted taxi companies: In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones via our new responsive mobile platform. which you will get when you buy something.29). If your child becomes ill. A packet of 20 international brand cigarettes costs 14. A onetrip ticket for public transport ticket costs 1. however. where staff will help you find out where it might have gone).35 € 1. There are also three direct trains connecting the two cities: the fastest daytime train leaves at 05:45 (arriving in Budapest at 18:50) while the night train leaves at 17:40 and arrives at 08:50. Bucharest . female: anyone who steps in the wrong kind of taxi can expect to be well and truly buggered. as well as rate them. Much cheaper (and quicker) is the daily coach linking Bucharest and Sofia.Belgrade T arom flies to Belgrade once a day.45 € 0. there is currently no train service between Bucharest and Belgrade. In an emergency you should call tel. A pint of local beer in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you around 8 lei (€1. Leone 021 9425.38 £0. grab your luggage. Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes during the day. but there is no time limit on using the return).32 lei £0. Note.19 £0. Tickets cost from around €63 (single). bucharest.30 $ 0. found at m.47 € 33.11 $ 30. The full timetable of the 783 bus is online at ratb.88 £2.34). and used on all Bucharest buses. To order a taxi. leaving Bucharest at 06:12. The population of Romania is € 4. The train departs at irregular and infrequent intervals. and the frequent handing over of 10 lei notes to everyone from the receptionist to the cleaner is recommended. There are two very slow direct trains per day. Taxi Tactics Bucharest’s dodgy taxi drivers have a refreshingly liberal sense of equal opportunities. and if bought far enough in advance return plane tickets with T arom can cost as little as around €122.57 € 1. You should especially ignore the currency exchange desks: they do not offer decent rates. there are still sometimes touts hassling visitors inside the arrivals hall: ignore them.71 € 44. Speed Taxi 021 now.32 $ 60. with either T arom or Bulgaria Air. Call (+4) 755 05 26 21 or go to visit their website. Point your phone’s web browser to m. find the nearest McDonald’s and make use of their loos. young. Air Moldova also fly the same route. The problem is spotting the difference. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign. and what ID number the taxi has. displayed on the driver and passenger door of all taxis. Mavi 021 9450 Meridian 021 9444. There should just be one single tarif displayed. Instead. you can now find return flights for around €220. In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city on a map. male. Cobalcescu 021 9451.76 £9. You can also get to town by taking bus 783. and then it’s off through customs to the arrivals area. Tickets cost 100 lei and can be bought direct from the driver or online at www. right in the mobile platform.60 $ 0.airport-transferbucharest.94 lei (€1. It leaves the Gara Filaret coach station next to Parcul Carol (B-7) each day at 16:00. Otherwise. www. In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones.inyourpocket. that entrance to some McDonald’s toilets in Bucharest is protected with a four-digit code. the 780.56 £0.inyourpocket. Gara de Nord. Again. You need to purchase an Activ Card before boarding (get it from the little booth which you’ll find on your right hand side as you exit). After getting off the plane and easing your way through passport control.49). You also need to pay 3. Quick Currency Converter Lei 1 lei 2 lei 3 lei 4 lei 5 lei 6 lei 7 lei 8 lei 9 lei 10 lei 20 lei 50 lei 100 lei 150 lei 200 lei 250 lei 500 lei Euro €1=4. including a chemist. The best state emergency hospital is Spitalul de Urgenta.04 $ 15. 17km north of the city on the DN1. There are two or three flights per day depending on the day of the week. in front of internal arrivals and leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei. arriving in Kyiv at 09:18 the following morning.etapgroup. at Gara de Nord. look for the touchscreens in the arrivals hall. Confort 021 9455. if not perfect.12 € 1. found at (B-4). In Your Pocket Mobile Bucharest .January 2014 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. all operated by T arom.45 lei € 0. There is also a train which connects the airport to the main railway station. Most of these companies have at least one operator who speaks English. while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is 1.inyourpocket.32 £1.22 € 0. and to get to the airport’s station you need to take a minibus.25 € 3. you simply go outside to wait for your taxi. arriving in Sofia just under seven hours later. 1 leu). We do not recommend it. Ignore all of the services on offer here. The best way to avoid being ripped off however is to pay careful attention to the tariffs.50 lei (€3. Incredibly.70 lei for the card itself.90 € 1. and then every 40 minutes throughout the night. a press shop and a small cafe.11 $ 2. Smart filters can be used to ensure that only those places which matter to you are displayed. which stops underneath the arrivals hall. 11 Market Values One €1 is currently worth 4.936.82 £3. quickly showing which are the closest to your current location. While most of the rip-off taxis of yore have now gone. and you can choose a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest taxi companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed.42 $ 151. Another bus. 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. The train to Kyiv takes a whopping 27 You will find free portaloo’s around the city but these should be used only by the very desperate.02 € 2. Calea Floreasca 8. The important thing to remember when getting into a taxi in this city is that there are two kinds: those which are operated by a tried and trusted taxi company (usually good) and independents (usually bad). Baneasa Airport . you’ll find yourself in the baggage reclaim area.53 $ 6. foreigners.80). tickets costing slightly more. Bucharest .94 £1. trustworthy taxis are easy to spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone number of the company they are associated with. who offer airport transfers in a fleet of smart vehicles from as little as €5 per person. You can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks.inyourpocket. which usually arrives promptly (if it fails to arrive head for the small office on the right hand of side of the exit.21 $ 1. a good option is TransVision. When it is 12:00 in Bucharest it is 11:00 in Berlin.42 $ 2. ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Arrival 1: Otopeni Bucharest’s only commercial airport is Otopeni (officially Henri Coanda).once the city’s low-cost hub . the local health service is more than adequate.27). (+4) 021 212 93 64/66. To the right is a passage leading to the departures terminal: the passage is lined with car hire desks and a few shops. Tickets cost from around €41 (single). trams and the metro. A list of 24 hour pharmacies can be found on page 93.94 € 112. quick or inexpensive as you would expect.72 $ however.06 Moving On Getting from Bucharest to the capitals of neighbouring countries is not as easy. Mondial 021 9423.45 lei. For those who want to head into town in a bit more comfort than your average visitor. Featuring more than 100 cities across . Health Should you fall ill. Time & People Romania is in the Eastern European Time Zone: GMT + 2 hours. You can also leave comments about venues.31 lei $ 0. Hospitals do suffer from a lack of funds.50 £1. Using a flight search-engine such as skyscanner. C-3. tel.closed its doors to airlines in March 2012. A return journey into the city and back costs 7 lei (no singles are available. although you can often find cheaper tickets if you book far enough in advance. A McDonald’s Big Mac costs 11 lei (€2.49 € 11. Bucharest . and one litre of standard unleaded petrol 5. it is a spacious. and arrives in the Moldovan capital at 08:52 the next morning. Once the taxi company of your choice has informed you (via the screen) how long the taxi will take to arrive.75 £0. around €144 return. tel.59 £93. (+4) 021 9731 for an ambulance.10 bUcHAREST BASIcS Toilets The only decent public toilets in town are those at Gara de Nord (for which you have to pay. Taxi As 021 9435. with prices from around €166 return.Chisinau There are four flights a day between Bucharest and Chisinau. one at 12:30 (arriving Sofia 22:00) and a night train leaving at 23:12 (arriving in Sofia at 09:25).69 £1. Standard return prices start at around € £18. Single tickets cost from €59. efficient airport. (+4) 021 599 23 00.91 $ 1.69 lei per kilometre should start alarm bells $ 1. Just make sure you get into the correct taxi: check the company name and ID number. old.67 € 0.042. By and large. The overnight train to Chisinau departs Bucharest at 19:40.Budapest There are three flights from Bucharest to Budapest each day. Locals. runs from the airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15 to 23:00 roughly every 30 minutes.36 GB Pound £1=5. however. while a bed in a cuseta (sharing with up to five others) costs around €53.20 lei (€0. often via Amsterdam. and anything higher than 1. Opened in 1970 and recently extended.02 $ 4. but it can be recharged as often as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest. note down the driver’s number and call his company to report him. with as much credit as you wish.24 € 22.80 £28. Bucharest .20 £37. Timetables and tickets are available from a counter in the Arrivals hall.9 million according to figures from the 2011 census. They are fully automated and very easy to use (and offer multiple-language options). Cristaxi 021 9461.Kyiv Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes plenty of patience.81 $ 2. 112 or tel. If you feel something is a bit suspect in any taxi. Here there are loads of ATMs. Autogeneral 021 9401.80 € 2. Taxi Total 021 9424.28). you should take him or her to the excellent children’s emergency hospital.98 US$ $1=3. and of Bucharest 1. December 2013 .13 £1. The price for a berth in a sleeping wagon is around €90 (one way). B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 30-32.

Most buses are overcrowded. Tickets are valid from the moment they are electronically franked on a bus or at a metro station. To get to town take an honest taxi from the official taxi station outside (ignore anyone who approaches you inside the station). and must be franked at the start of each journey. tramps and thieves to contend with. On all forms of public transport children under the age of seven travel free. Just ignore anything they say and wave them away. The card is then debited each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located on buses. after which the night buses take over. a metro trip costs 2. however. The city centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. It even now has free Wifi.and this is a bonus . Tickets (in the form of a Card Activ) from the kiosk next to the bus stop (itself next to the taxi rank). Berceni and Militari out to the huge industrial plants at Pipera. No. Metro Bucharest’s metro was primarily built to ship workers from the vast housing estates of Titan. are allowed to pick up fares . The night bus network is extensive. you will be approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and divert you from your intended destination (often by saying that the place you want to go to is closed) towards another hostel or hotel that they will recommend to you. valid not just for one or two journeys but for an unlimited number of journeys over a designated period of time.inyourpocket. Buses.00 lei. If no taxi is waiting. Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got off the Budapest train and have a backpack.70 lei. but has the usual collection of rogues. kiosks. After that age they need a full-price ticket. but useless to almost everybody else. Arrival 2: Gara de Nord If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara de Nord. trolleybus) and metro ticket costs 5 lei. That’s all very well if you are resident of Titan working at IMGB. or at the entrance to the metro.12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Public transport Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by bus. trolleybus or tram. Meridian and Pelican.they are valid until the end of the last journey you make. trolleybuses and trams run from very early in the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends). trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. A 60-minute RATB (bus. WARNING: None of Bucharest’s reputable hostels send people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains. and most main roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different transport routes. tram. 123 goes to Piata Unirii. Currently. while a 24-hour ticket (abonament de o zi ) costs 16 lei. It is OK. 85 to Piata Universitatii. and travelling on them can often be a less than pleasant experience. Public Transport Tickets To use a bus. They need to be loaded with credit (minimum 5 lei.30 lei. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii. One trip by surface transport costs 1. are valid on all forms of public transport (including the metro) and can be bought from the little kiosks next to major stops. These cards cost 3. and operates an hourly service throughout the night. shops. a McDonalds and a KFC. maximum 50 lei) and are reusable: you can reload them as many times as needs be. use one of the two touch screens to order one. or take the bus: No. only taxis from two reliable Bucharest companies. trams and trolleybuses. Republica and Industriilor. Also . You can also hop on the metro: you are just one stop away from Piata Victoriei. There are ATMs. IMGB. You can now also buy joint bus and metro tickets.

You can also buy tickets valid for one day (abonament de o zi). Str. see page 36). (+4) 0372 37 20 05. www. M2 line.hertz. reservations@budgetro.sixt. fax (+4) 021 312 99 82. Calea Grivitei 139.January 2014 . Closed Sat. (+4) 021 310 17 97. western currencies accepted. Closed Sat. 16.15:00. Avoid Regio (R-) trains: these are painfully slow. (One Star Smart Number). 1.bavariarent.avis. the service is on request. Q Open 24 hrs. from Pipera to IMGB.18:00. Stocks copies of our guides. Mihail Moxa 9. tel. www. Closed Sun. 021 9400. Gara de Nord. (+4) 0744 58 67 24. tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57. (+4) 021 407 82 00. (+4) 021 201 45 34. tel. (+4) 021 312 98 57. An InterCity adult single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90. A delivery and collection service is available free of charge within the city limits. tel.europcar. www. (+4) 021 210 43 44.triptkts. Closed Sat. www. Advance reservations for all types of trains. (+4) 0730 Sixt New Kopel Calea Bucurestilor 201-203. Tickets cannot be purchased on the train. www. tel. Bucharest is well linked to Budapest by train (there are two per day) but poorly to Belgrade. Henri Coanda International slightly more to fax (+4) 021 310 17 96.cfr. and the M1 branch to the Gara de Nord. cars4rent. Sat 08:00 . fax (+4) 031 802 22 28.22:00. P-ta Universitatii Underpass. Titulescu 1. office@bavariarent. tel. many long years of line upgrades on the Bucharest . Service also available in Cluj. www. Open 08:00-02:00. Car Rental All of the major international car hire firms are present in Bucharest. and journey times are back to something approaching 1989 levels: two and a half hours to Brasov. CFR’s advance booking 2013.17:00. and it depends on the availability of the Avis rental office. Piata Montreal 10. (+4) 031 802 22 22. QOpen 09:00 . 1st Floor. fax (+4) 021 210 29 95.17:30. Sat 10:00 .ro.budgetro. Sofia. Always try to get an InterCity (IC) or InterRegio (IR) train as they are (just about) the fastest. Closed Sat.50 lei. (+4) 0374 00 40. Cars4Rent Str. Sat 09:00 . tel. Sun. www. national and international. tel. office@cars4rent. www. Q Also at Henri Coanda is likely to be of any use to visitors. Wasteels A-4. Helpful QOpen 09:00 .ro. though in the worst case scenario you can try bribing the guard. Sun. visit either the station.7 (Howard Johnson Hotel). Sun and Henri Coanda International Airport. (+4) 0723 612 011.14 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Train Schedule From Bucharest To Bucharest Dep December 2013 . fax (+4) 021 352 87 16. entrance F. tel. Having said that. Hertz A-1. Open 08:00 . alongside a number of local outfits. You will also see trains designated as ICN: these are InterCity trains which stop at a few more stations than usual. 6.compact-rentacar.inyourpocket. An unofficial yet very good tourist information point is operated out of the Rembrandt Hotel (C-6. Good car hire from the people behind the Charter Hotel. You usually need to be over 21 to hire a car in Romania. Reservations for all kinds of trains. QOpen 08:00 . QOpen 09:00 . Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51. which passes through Piatas bucharest. sc. Large. Sun. Constanta. tel. Closed Sun. reservations@europcar. Q Prices from €18/day. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. Timisoara. Open 07:00 .02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North. ICN 13:00 00:55 ARAD ICN 00:33 12:10 IR 05:52 08:35 BRASOV IR 05:30 08:15 ICN 13:00 15:28 BRASOV ICN 09:42 12:10 IR 15:30 18:10 BRASOV ICN 13:40 16:05 IR 16:45 19:35 BRASOV IR 16:16 19:06 ICN 17:30 20:00 BRASOV IC 20:45 23:09 ICN 13:00 22:22 CLUJ-NAPOCA IC 14:00 23:09 IR 10:15 13:03 CONSTANTA IR 08:30 11:20 IR 17:00 19:48 CONSTANTA IR 16:50 19:39 IR 15:45 18:47 CRAIOVA IR 16:20 19:20 IR 13:40 17:23 GALATI IR 17:40 21:34 IR 16:00 23:06 IASI IR 06:00 13:10 IR 23:00 05:54 IASI IR 23:10 06:15 IR 18:40 07:13 ORADEA IR 19:08 07:48 IR 18:40 09:29 SATU MARE IR 16:50 07:48 IR 10:30 15:38 SIBIU IR 15:01 20:40 ICN 13:00 17:55 SIGHISOARA IC 18:26 23:09 IR 11:10 19:21 TIRGU MURES IR 13:07 21:20 IR 05:45 14:15 TIMISOARA IR 05:45 14:28 IR 15:45 00:20 TIMISOARA IR 14:00 22:45 Schedule checked December (+4) 0747 28 06 49. Agentia de Voiaj SNCFR A-4. doua calatorii) or 15 lei (ten trips. Also at Otopeni Airport.Brasov and Bucharest . www. (+4) 0730 33 37 05.18:00. The full Romanian railway timetable is online at www. Open 08:00 . tel.20. Closed Sat.14:00. Many locals do this Your best bet for the purchase of international tickets is Wasteels at the station. the CFR agency we list below or buy online at www. QOpen 09:00 . Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. To buy train tickets. www. Sat 08:00-20:00. Romana and Unirii.17:30. Compact Rent-a-Car A-4. Sun. Grigore Mora 17. tel. ro. Open 09:00 . Str. ap. Open 07:00 . official tourist information tel. Tickets are almost as cheap as for the trams and buses: they cost either 4 lei (valid for two trips. (+4) 021 204 12 (+4) 021 204 16 67. reservations@hertz. Closed Sun.18:00. but are rising fast. In all cases. office@compactrentacar. tel. QOpen 09:00 . Prices on all types of train are relatively cheap. and to have held a license for at least couple of years. QOpen 09:00 . Sibiu.OSSN Bavaria Rent Drumul Garii Otopeni 1B. *AVIS (*2847) .ro. Also at (C-5) InterContinental. (+4) 021 314 18 37.19:00. (+4) 021 313 26 Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter). Open 08:00 . (+4) 021 210 28 Info Tourist Center C-5. (+4) 021 201 50 89. Open 08:00 .19:00. (+4) 0746 25 29 22. B-dul N. The metro runs from around 05:00 to 23:00.16:00. fax (+4) 021 210 69 12. spacious. zece calatorii) and can be bought from any metro station. bl A7. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 . et. 33 37 07.20:00.22:00. ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Tourist Information MUniversitate. Dep. tel. office 1. it‘s comforting to know that the country‘s railways are equally crap. 15 Budget B-4.infofer. (+4) 021 317 03 70/021 300 27 30. 67. do not leave buying tickets to the last minute: long queues could mean you miss your train. Chisinau and Kyiv. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99. costing 6 lei. Q Open 08:00 . Europcar D-6. tel. (+4) Trains Given that Romania‘s roads are so bad. reservations@avis.Constanta routes are now approaching completion.

(+4) 021 314 69 80. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. Q Starts eaten throughout the day and night. Q Starts 20:00. It is generally considered to be the second most important religious Romanian holiday. Below is the full opera and ballet schedule for December 2013. Romanians tend to spend Christmas at home with family. Be brave.12 Thursday Demis Roussos 11. The Romanian Christmas meal centres on pork. Incredibly popular. and can be purchased online at www. The Hilton’s terrace also has a Christmas Market. adult contemporary. so you do not even have to worry about getting home. While many restaurants close on Christmas Day. a sweetbread with sultanas. so if you have an event you want to publicise. Tickets cost from or from the Opera’s own box office. while dessert will consist of cozonac. eventim. Minced pork is used to make sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls): a must at and Eventim partner outlets. surpassed only by Easter (which. you are expected to dress smartly. They return. In fact. which can make the capital feel eerily empty on Christmas and Boxing Day. Lighter. The Scorpions: Playing Bucharest on December 15th. usually with food and drink included. in these parts. while at the InterContinental the Paideia Gift Shop is an excellent place to find Romanian the country being Orthodox . open 09:00-13:00.bilet.63.30 . a fireworks display at midnight and thousands of little idiots setting off firecrackers (known locally as petarde). 15:00-19:00. Send details of your event to editor@inyourpocket. It serves up a familiar repertoire of classic operas and ballets. though note that most will require you buy a ticket in advance: the chances of being able to simply turn up at your chosen location on the night will be few and far between. From around 21:00 you can expect a host of local bands performing Opera & Ballet The Romanian National Opera (Opera Romana) is at B-5. club nights and exhibitions in Bucharest. Arenele Romane. Every part of the pig is used. the biggest of which is in Piata Universitatii. The most upmarket events are . Tickets 50-300 lei from bilete. Those (many) people from the provinces who live in Bucharest will head off to the family home for Christmas. the big hotels. almost all of the city’s major hotels will be putting on some kind of Christmas event: many will have festive brunches on the Sundays leading up to the big day too. Rock & Pop Concerts B-5. While black tie is not compulsory. Almost all of the venues listed in this guide will be holding special events. hearty dishes .as with Christmas . is a far bigger deal). We in general welcome submissions. The thick skin of the pig is also often fried and served up as an appetiser. who lay on a number of amazing parties and balls. you can do so here: absolutely free. They have produced eight albums since 1995. Throughout December there are various Christmas gift markets around the city. B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72.celebrated on December 25. now in his late sixties but still well capable of belting out his old . www. Even the ears and the trotters are often fried as a snack.60 lei. If you want to enjoy New Year’s Eve on the streets with revelling locals. chocolate or Turkish delight. raisins. however. Bucharest In Your Pocket offers the widest selection of concerts.12 Wednesday Morcheeba B-7. for the biggest party of the year: New Year’s Eve. from the meat (roasted) to the organs (used to make drob and piftie). eventim.inyourpocket. rock. Sala Palatului. head for Piata Constitutiei (in front of Casa Poporului). Tickets 120-220 lei from bilete. British band. mixing influences from trip hop. Legendary Greek singer.16 CULTURE & EvENTS Christmas & New Year’s Eve Christmas (Crăciun in Romanian) is . January’s schedule had yet to be published at press time: it should be available on the opera’s website towards the end of December. you are advised to book well in advance. and pop. Romanians probably eat more at Christmas than at any other time of the year and huge. two of which reached the UK top ten. however big or small. operanb. 05. Some of the hotels have offers that include a cut-price room. which in the countryside will be a porker sacrificed in the traditional way (by having its throat cut in early December after months of fattening up). That said. December Date Time 07 19:00 08 19:00 14 18:00 15 18:00 19 11:00 19 19:00 21 19:00 22 19:00 Event La Sylphide La Sylphide Faust Faust Hansel & Gretel The Nutcracker The Nutcracker La Boheme Venue ONB ONB ONB ONB ONB ONB ONB ONB Bucharest In Your Pocket and Eventim partner outlets. Finding something to do or somewhere to go on New Year’s Eve in Bucharest is not going to be a problem. Sala Dalles (see page 28) hosts a good gift market throughout December.often prepared days in advance . Italian-style pannetones are also increasingly popular. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. the big five-star hotels have become famous for their extravagant Christmas Brunches and Christmas Dinners.

inyourpocket. 14. Your first stop for regular live acts should be Mojo in the Old Town (see page 87) which hosts top local bands alongside its resident Mojo Band.12 Tuesday A-5. The Day 1 lineup is Cargo. Sala Radio (Radiodifuziune) B-5. Sala Palatului B-5. (+4) 031 425 78 01. MUniversitate. (+4) 021 314 77 70. MEroii Revolutiei.srr. Q Starts will be spoilt for choice. The Silver Church. Hard Rock Cafe (page 38) Control (see page 60) and Panic (page 62) are known for their range of live music. tel.salapolivalenta. Ion Campineanu 28. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul Carol). MUniversitate. one of the best selling bands of all time and yet still probably best known for just one song: Wind of Change. The box office remains open until 20:00 on concert Closed Sat. tel. while Kulturhaus (on page 61) similarly has live bands on most evenings. Q Starts 19:00 both days. Sun 10:00 .ro and Eventim partner outlets. Str. Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Centre). Sankt Petersburg (page 85) opposite also has live music a couple of times per week. (+4) 021 315 25 67. try Art Jazz Club and Green Hours (see page 62). (+4) 0723 37 90 26. Club A (page 86) on Strada Sun. Pseudonoise and Stone Light. tel. Sat 16:00 . Romanian National Opera (ONB) (Opera Nationala Romana) A-5. Atheneum (Ateneul Român) C-5. www. Tickets 150-400 lei from biletoo. MEroilor. www. 28. formed in 1985 by guitarist and main songwriter Jon Schaffer and originally known as Purgatory. Berthelot 60-64. and a Turkish DJ. The Silver Church. Q Starts and Biletoo partner outlets. Q Starts 21:00. Tickets 50 lei per day.19:00. is another decent bet. The National Radio Orchestra is one of the best in the country and happens to have its very own 1950s socialist-looking music hall in the radio building. More Live Music Finding good live music is no longer the problem in Bucharest it once was.18 CUlTURE & EvENTS Romexpo.01 Tuesday Iced Earth Romexpo B-dul Mărăsti 65-67. Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Gained fame with a wider audience as one of The Three Tenors along with Plácido Domingo and Luciano Pavarotti. At Divan (the best Turkish restaurant in the city. Florida. (+4) 021 315 68 75 for and Eventim partner outlets.12 Sunday Jose Carreras Romexpo. MIzvor. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Biletoo shop in Unirea Shopping Centre. Str.17. Christmas Rock Fest biletoo.romexpo. Franklin 1-3. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. ro.especially at the weekend .Q Box office open 09:00-13:00. Sala Polivalenta B-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tineretului/ Calea Piscului 10). Silver Church A-5. Q Box office open 09:0018:00. Spanish tenor who is particularly known for his performances in the operas of Verdi and Puccini. Tickets 150-650 lei from biletoo. (+4) 021 315 73 72. tel. Tickets 65-75 lei from eventim. www. A-5. 80 lei for both days from bilete. tel.QOpen 12:00 www. Calea Plevnei 61.fge. Outside of the Old Town.tscarena.11:00. 16:00-19:00. 16. For live jazz. 15. (+4) 021 207 70 00. 15:00-19:00. B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72.operanb. on the ground floor just inside the entrance next to or at the various outlets around the city: the most central is in www. eventim. tel. www. (+4) 021 314 69 80. Str. American power metal band from Tampa. MTineretului. while on Day 2 you have Mike Terrana and Trooper. every Friday and Saturday night at 21:30. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45.biletoo. Sun. MPiata Unirii. In see page 79) there is live oriental music and . Q Box office open Tue-Fri 10:00-19:00.12 Saturday Scorpions Venues & Tickets Arenele Romane B-7.12 Monday . Ageing German heavy Closed Sat. www. on most nights . Buy tickets for more or less all events in Bucharest either online at biletoo.

bowling. The rink is in fact artificial (the lake is drained each winter) but the setting is fabulous. There are also pools open to the public at the InterContinental and Hilton hotels. Q Starts 20:00. Natalia Bestemyanova and Andrey The rink is open from offer no real inter-activity and little to captivate young kids. Q Starts 19:30. 09. The zoo is open daily from and Eventim partner outlets. Tickets 80-300 lei from bilete. It can get busy so you might have to queue.the Hard Rock Cafe: always happy to see kids. we had not received confirmation at press time . Featuring perhaps the biggest indoor playground we have seen (15 lei Mon-Fri. An excellent indoor playground can be found at Funland Romania: a cracking place to take the kids on days when it rains. The best-known (and most central) is on the lake at (B-5) Gradina Cismigiu. An hour on the ice here costs around 15 lei (exact prices were unavailable as we went to print).ro and Eventim partner outlets. Sun). Q Starts 19:00.12 Friday Vienna Classic Christmas B-5. explore and generally be kids without worrying too much about grump security guards telling them off. as well as outdoor rinks in most of the city’s parks. While very old fashioned and a bit dusty. Ice Skating in Bucharest The good people of Bucharest love to ice skate. an ice extravaganza featuring more than 30 top Russian skaters. And then of course there are the parks. For kids who want to swim there is Tickets 200-350 lei from biletoo. as they can scurry around the .12 Wednesday Moscow Stars on Ice 20. The programme features Christmas favourites from Tchaikovsky. ro and Biletoo partner outlets. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. This event has become something of an annual Bucharest tradition. where under fives swim for free.20 CUlTURE & EvENTS B-6. Osho and Vacamuu. A dance. around the back of the museum. an indoor crazy golf course on Piata Unirii. but Tineretului (take the metro to Tineretului). Cismigiu (B-5) and Herastrau (A/B-2) are the best and most central. You will find details of its performances at the website www. You will also find open air rinks in (B-2) Parcul Floreasca and . Oh. as well as two water parks.all of which have kids’ entertainers during their fabulous brunches .ro and Eventim partner outlets. there are mulled-wine sellers on hand to keep you warm. it is a weekend-must.circulglobus. The Strauss Festival Orchestra featuring soprano Felicia Filip and tenor Robert Sala Palatului. eventim. 06. to perform at the Ateneu no less. see page 65. The other is the excellent Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum. and at this time of year ice skating is also an option: there is a good. Fortunately. The St. the kids loved it. arcade games and plenty of space for Mums and Dads to relax and have coffee in.. Petersburg State Ice Ballet perform Tchaikovsky’s classic ballet. afternoon and evening) and is always a hit with kids. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. If you want to skate indoors. billiards. with skate hire costing much the same. is also worth exploring. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Biletoo shop in Unirea Shopping Centre. Q Starts 19:00. indoor rink at the AFI Palace shopping centre.inyourpocket. All rinks are floodlit and open until very late. which children love. A modest-sized rink offers 90 minutes skating for 12-17 lei (children) and 14-20 lei (adults). including Cismigiu: see left. planes and such like. C-5. Tickets 100-200 lei from bilete. Sala Polivalenta. especially those who know a little Romanian history (and note that the Clubul Taranului. Golf Planet. as it is packed with models and exhibits of things which are right up their street: trains. music and lights spectacular featuring Impressive displays of traditional Turkish dance. Red Angus. including Igor Bobrin. engines. and there are a number of open-air rinks around the city on which you can dream of perfect sixes. Those deserving a special mention include the big hotels . then the AFI Palace Cotroceni shopping centre (see page 26) is the place to go. Phill which has a playground. jet packs. They have a fine collection of exotic birds. Q Starts 19:30. Tickets 50-200 lei from biletoo. while the Geology Museum (see page 70 across the road is also a good choice for families. Sala Palatului. Parcul Circului) has performances most weekends (morning. eventim. Find it on the fourth floor of the Unirea Shopping Centre in (C-6) Piata Unirii.are dull.01 Saturday Swan Lake on Ice C-5. The Reverend Dwight Robson brings his amazing gospel choir to Bucharest. Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Entrance costs 13 lei for and Eventim partner outlets. The major problem is that the vast majority of the city’s museums – with a few honourable and notable exceptions . with its fabulous playgrounds. Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. a good sports club in Parcul Tineretului. 20 lei Sat. has puppet shows most weekend mornings at 10:30am and 12pm). Tickets 75-200 lei from eventim. We recently took the In Your Pocket kids to the curious little place that is the National Technical Museum at the entrance to Parcul Carol. For more on Swimming pools in Bucharest see the box on page 92.12 Monday Golden Voices of Gospel 18. The Circus Globus (C-3.. The confectionery stand at the entrance selling tasty Romanian sweets helps too. all of which have a great kids’ menu: some offer kids’ activities at weekend lunchtimes.50 lei for Piata Unirii. 18. Bucharest’s Zoo on Aleea Priveghetorilor (turn right at the Academia de Politie) is better than it has been for years. Ateneu Roman. cars. Sala Palatului.probably.12 Friday Fire of Anatolia Special Events Bucharest With Children Bucharest is not the greatest city in the world to visit with children. is another potential destination. and it is a good half-day out for kids. The Peasant Museum (see page 66) will please older children. on ice. eventim. 6. Strauss and Brahms. including the Sala Palatului box office and the Humanitas bookstore at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45. Skate hire costs 15 lei. The exceptions are the outstanding Village Museum (see page 66). even if the amount of smoke in some of them means that you will probably not want to enter with kids.

which is just far too expensive. decorated by artists from all over Europe. some people just couldn’t resist the temptation. making it the most snow-sure of the Prahova Valley resorts. The frescoes in the portal depicting Judgement Day are stunning. and his wife Marie. of Sinaia’s skiing is done at altitude. others are ‘simply’ decorated in German NeoRenaissance style. but this place in Sinaia . Almost 100 feet (30 metres) high the cross is the largest of its kind in Europe. A casino was built in 1912. Note that the last tour of Peles begins at 15:15. Carol I. and while it does not offer access to any skiing. gondolas and chairlifts. Perched upon a rolling hill and set against the stark beauty of the Carpathian mountains. On the left. tel. Entrance costs 20 lei for adults. 5 lei for children. After that you will only be admitted to the ground floor. the last time Sinaia enjoyed such blissful conditions was sometime in 1963. Once up at the top. There are also a number of routes back down to Cota 1400: these are some of the toughest slopes in the country. www.50 lei for children. 900 metres) is a town similar in size to Sinaia.QOpen 12:00-05:00. Costilei 27. Thu. built between 1899 – 1902 and inhabited by Ferdinand. If there is enough snow. a German architect. happy believers wait in line to enter paradise. QOpen 12:00 .ro. or a newer gondola. Sinaia Sights You simply can’t visit Sinaia without seeing Castle Peles. it could be argued that the opposite is true. but lacking most of its better-known rival’s charm. Sun 09:30-15:30. this magnificent castle appears to be extracted directly from a Grimm Brothers’ fairy tale. and the sign on the iconostasis kindly requests visitors not to scratch their names into the valuable walls – as you will see. Once a quiet monastery settlement in the Prahova Valley. Sinaia became a mountain retreat and resort town with the construction of King Carol I’s summer residence Peles Castle in the 1880s. and a microcosm of the problems Romania still faces before it can call itself a top tourist destination. there is much to do and see in Sinaia even if downhill skiing never crosses your mind. it does climb high into the Bucegi mountains. W La Brace Str. and visible from the valley below) was built from 1926-8 in honour of those soldiers who died defending the railway line from the Austrian and Hungarian armies in World War I. by which time Sinaia was so smart it had become a stop on the Orient Express’s route to Istanbul. the 17th century monastery (named after the biblical Mount Sinai) is the old church inside the monastery walls. and is the best choice of Romanian mountain destination for groups which include non-skiers. there is snow in abundance and there are no queues for the lifts. 12. Carol immediately ordered an expansion to be built. The frescoes here are more than 300 years old. there is a route down to the resort from Cota 1400. The problem is that there are just the two and two relatively long. If you are in Sinaia and in need of gifts . That’s 270 lei for a day’s skiing. although it does involve a fair bit of poling in certain places. A pass valid for 10 rides on the chairlift costs 110 lei. games and children’s toys. (+4) 0737 57 11 00. Some rooms are meant to be replicas of Turkish and Moorish castle halls. www. From there.inyourpocket. if the traffic is not too bad) from the capital. Everything you might want. tel. A guided tour costs 50 lei for adults. Sinaia The closest ski resort to Bucharest is Sinaia (alt. very much the original. and the resort quickly became the summer retreat of choice for the Romanian capital’s wealthy. Lift prices for this year had not been announced as went to press.tavernasarbului. with cheap prices offsetting a somewhat limited amount of slopes and an unreliable snow record. There are now T averna Sarbuluis in both Brasov and Bucharest. After the work was done in 1883.right by the gondola . and set to design Pelisor’s interior in a simple Art Deco style. The cable car station is behind the Montana hotel. there are two large.accommodation mean that neither can any longer be considered budget-destinations. A pass valid for a day’s unlimited access to the chairlift and slope cost . 36 lei for children). to Arena Platos/Paltinis near Sibiu (beginners especially will be happy here). or a four man chair-lift.labrace-restaurant.2012-13 prices) and one at the cable car or Valea Dorului chairlift. It is a perfect example of Romanian religious architecture which blends certain stylistic elements from Moldavia and Wallachia. as you might expect. Both the gondola and the cable car tip out at 1400 metres.have both spent big money over the past couple of years investing in new lifts and slopes. www. where there is a hotel and a couple of bars and skirental shacks. Poiana Brasov especially has become a highly exclusive resort in recent years. A direct railway connection to Bucharest was subsequently built allowing courtiers easy access to the palace. for good value Romanian skiing these days you are in fact probably far better off heading further Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. www. Tour guides are quick to point out that Peles was the first castle in Europe to have both electricity and central heating. Fri.hermesgallery. (+4) 0244 31 44 December 2013 . Sat 09:30 .20:00. This amazing house of worship displays ornately carved oak objects and beautiful Neo-Byzantine gold leaf murals. (+4) 0344 14 19 29. The country’s two biggest resorts . These days. built between 1690 – 1695. In summer a number of hiking routes begin from here.sinaia-ski. Offering both Italian and Romanian food it serves the best pizza in the resort. Unfortunately.January 2014 . Good staff and the spacious interior complete with high ceilings makes it feel suitable mountainous. In the far corner of the monastery. while the gondola lift departs a little further up (it is a bit of a trek if you are walking.Poiana Brasov and Sinaia . A small museum and a shop which sells religious icons and literature are also open to the public. Best to come between 10:00-15:00 and hope for the best. 880 metres) less than two hours on the train (even less by car. costing 150 lei. can get rather crowded. The first king of Romania. Visitors can view a large collection of European arms from the past five centuries and explore exotic rooms.21:00. where gold leaves cover the walls and ceiling. The biggest problem at Sinaia remains the fact that two different companies operate the cable cars. which.then this is without question the place to come. Seven years later he bought the grounds and had Wilhelm Doderer. you can enter the Paraclis. hand-made wooden furniture to jewellery. and fell in love with the place. alas. there can often still be plenty of the white stuff up on Sinaia’s highest slopes. and there is therefore no ski pass covering the whole resort. If you intend to ski all the resort’s slopes. Even when the other resorts lack snow. There is a decent website dedicated to skiing in Sinaia. Sinaia Listings Hermes Gallery B-dul Carol I 41. Both Peles and Pelisor are open Wednesday 11:1516:15.QOpen 09:30 .inyourpocket. Great apresski venue it stays open until very late. Madness. a chapel once used by monks for daily services. The enormous cross close by (on top of the Caraiman peak. books. you will need to buy two ski passes: one at the gondola (costing 120 lei .for season 2012-13 . basically. Busteni Busteni (alt. build the palace in 1873 as a retreat from the summer heat in Bucharest. bucharest. built by monks under the supervision of Abbot Iosaf from As a ski they for Christmas or any other time of the year . On the road up to Cota 1400 this is just about the best restaurant in Sinaia. There is also a rather splendid cafe onsite with a terrific range of tea as well as coffee. although during winter they keep irregular hours.24:00. two-stage cable car. relatively easy and wide open ski areas: Valea Dorului and Valea Soarelui. from local. The main attraction of Sinaia’s raison d’etre. Most Taverna Sarbului Calea Codrului 39C. To visit Pelisor costs an extra 20 lei for adults. you can take the second stage of the cable car up to 2000 metres. 5 lei for children. Just up the road is Pelisor Castle (Little Peles).especially . Sinaia’s skiing is reached either by an old. Marie had her own idea about how to decorate castles. but the cost of liftpasses and . finished in 1914. There is also a cable car at Busteni (which costs extra: 64 lei return for adults. open for well over a decade and still serving huge portions of meaty Serbian food perfect for that post-ski feed. tel. and Thursday-Sunday 09:15-16:15. King Carol’s cousin. seen from the top of the Hotel Sport cable car For decades Romania was considered a good-value place for a skiing holiday. it has little to offer asides from one of the most modern chairlifts in the country. A superb selection of exquisite goods. and the best in Romania by a long way. while to the right little devils drag sinners into a river of fire leading to the mouth of a especially with skis). skiing in Sinaia is excellent. As such. snow-sure slopes to accompany it. and close to the top station is The Sphinx: a natural outcrop of rock that bears an uncanny resemblance to the Great Sphinx at Giza. Sinaia Skiing First things first: when the weather is good. fine food. (We only half jest).150 lei. visited Sinaia in 1866 to stay at the monastery. Especially impressive is the Golden Room. Sinaia. Sinaia. Sinaia. Next to the old part of the monastery is the bigger new church.22 SKI ROMANIA SKI ROMANIA 23 Poiana Brasov.

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. To get to Paltinis you first need to get to Sibiu: Tarom has daily flights from €116 return. Most also stop at Busteni. See page 22. suffered somewhat from over-development. Sun. There are also a couple of excellent ski schools. all are floodlit and open until 10pm. Arena Platos nevertheless does what it does very well indeed. The Old Slope (Partia Veche) is. Paltinis Azuga Azuga (alt. You can get to Paltinis and Arena Platos from Sibiu on bus number 22.where the road passes through the town . All trains from Bucharest to Brasov stop at Sinaia. The only real snow-sure skiing is at the top of Sinaia in the Valea Dorului and Valea Soarelui. To find out what snow conditions are December 2013 . 70 lei (children 50 lei) Sat. but has Peles. A small resort. Situated at an altitude of 1107 metres. It remains the ski resort of choice for Romania’s rich set. While most of the resorts have a couple of slopes which have snow-making machines. though even here high winds can often close the cable cars and gondola. Poiana Brasov sits at an altitude of 1030 metres.there is a bottleneck which can cause tailbacks as far as Comarnic in one direction. Arena Platos/Paltinis There are two options for skiers in Paltinis: the first is what is now known as the Old Slope. preventing access. Arena Platos. Granted. they become horribly crowded. Snow Given their low altitude. the Cindrel. 35 lei children) and available right at the foot of the slopes.January 2014 . Poiana is home to one of Romania’s best and most famous restaurants: Coliba Haiducilor. for absolute beginners and improvers it is a very good choice. while there are two daily trains. Though none of the runs are particularly difficult (the one black run. Lift passes (last season) cost 94 lei Monday-Friday. with a large wide nursery slope. At Busteni . Sorica. A day’s lift pass costs around 140 lei (this year’s prices had yet to be published as we went to print). 6 lei for each ride on the chairlift. 950 meters) is a further eight kilometres up the road from Busteni. Lift passes remain relatively expensive given the limited bucharest. both of which take more than five hours. It’s a fabulous spot. the best source is probably www. especially at weekends and holidays. If travelling at busy times you really should therefore think about taking the The best is probably the Perla Paltinisului. the longest of the pistes at Paltinis. There should usually be enough snow in all the resorts from December until the end of March (sometimes in Sinaia you can ski in May). Predeal offers limited skiing but is a good choice for a day trip: the resort is easily reached from Bucharest both by car and by train. A fairytale castle just a couple of hours from Bucharest. while one. It is served by a chairlift. Predeal Much like Azuga. these only cover beginner and nursery slopes and if they are all that’s available. we have always found the slopes at Predeal to be the best groomed in the country. There are plenty of good places to eat too: two of our favourite restaurants in Romania are in Predeal: Cabana Vanatorilor and Casa Romaneasca.inyourpocket. A gaggle of newer. 75 lei for children under six. and offers two of the longest ski runs in the country (indeed one. there is a good ski school and ski and snowboard hire is cheap (40 lei adults. while the second is the newer Arena Platos. made up up mainly of private villas and one big hotel. enough to keep a good skier happy for a day or two at a time. often meaning that the snow lasts longer here than elsewhere. Paltinis itself is a small resort. is said to be the longest piste in the country). smaller pensions and hotels has recently sprung up close to the Arena Poiana Brasov The best known Romanian ski resort. all reached by a relatively new four-man chair lift. There are limited nursery areas at Predeal. but the fast gondola lift keeps queues to a minimum. and is often overlooked when considering possible Romanian skiing destinations. and the ample nursery areas mean that beginners can stay away from the more demanding slopes. is far more difficult. which means that the bottom slopes can get very crowded. Azuga and Predeal. Last winter they cost 135 lei per day for adults. whose restaurant is the only real dining option in the resort. home to one of the best restaurants in the country. SKI ROMANIA 25 Getting to the Mountains The main road to all of the Prahova Valley ski resorts is impossibly busy at weekends. skiing here can sometimes offer something of a challenge.inyourpocket. Lupului. it is no surprise that Romania’s ski resorts do not have the best of snow records. will pose no major problems to a decent skier) some are quite steep.24 SKI ROMANIA Platos. and Predeal in the other. it is officially the highest town in Romania. served by a chair-lift located at the entrance the old part of the resort. There are now 23km of pistes in Poiana. is floodlit and the height of the slope means that it is one of the most snow-sure in the country. and a long easy blue run that descends from the very top of the resort to the bottom. It is beginners who have the best of things at Poiana however. Two of the runs are fairly easy.snow-forecast. There are three main slopes at Predeal. it is not the most extensive ski resort in the world. five kilometres back down the road to Sibiu. a short climb up from the city of Brasov (about 20 minutes by car). One-day lift passes cost 55 lei (children 35 lei). but recent years have been poor. 143 lei Saturday-Sunday. It is in fact a decent choice for a day on the slopes. and can be blocked for hours on end during holiday periods. You can buy them at the gondola station or at the cable car. Sinaia. There are five very short slopes. five drag lifts and while no piste is longer than a couple of hundred metres. All slopes are covered by snow-making. In our experience. which passes under the chairlift. and given that the snow at Poiana can often be very icy. Pay as you go. at 2km.

Wonderful wine shop. blackcurrant-tinged Feteasca Neagra (red). a good multi-screen cinema and loads of food options. and the Paideia Gift Shop at the InterContinental hotel (www. Str.22:00.20:00. Feteasca Alba (white). It’s a wine bar and shop where you can find a fine selection of self-imported wines. www. WHAT TO bUY IN bUcHAREST 27 Shopping Centres AFI Palace Cotroceni B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara. Opened in October 2013. unireashop. Super little place on the edge of the Old Town run by the same people as the Van Gogh Cafe. it was very good. A large mall with plenty of shops. a large ice skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller coaster and children’s funfair. Muzeul Taranului Roman (Peasant Museum) B-3. www. QOpen 10:00 . reliable labels to choose MAurel Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.23:30. Souvenir Shop C-5. If your own particular favourite item has been excluded. Q Open 10:00 .bucurestimall. Sat 09:00 . in fact). The best icons to take home as souvenirs are those which are hand-painted onto glass. tel. Other labels which can usually be taken as a sign of quality include Davino from Dealul Mare. while the most expensive is Bulevardul Primaverii. back in private hands. cadouriculturale. The only mall in the city right outside a metro station: in this case.plazaromania. however (at the moment) is the Merlot sold on the Vitis Metamorfosis label. usually featuring a favoured saint or the Virgin Mary.even newly built ones . Found in most good toy shops and larger supermarkets and hypermarkets. whether it’s something as cerebral as a hand-painted glass icon or as predictable as a Dracula t-shirt. QOpen 10:00 . a bold. There are fashion stores on the first and second floors while the electronics and household appliance shops on floors three and four are also worth a visit. Here are a few ideas we have come up with for those of you undecided as to what to take home. and there is a wide variety of good. (+4) 021 31 00 580. Fri. Fri.26 WHAT TO bUY IN bUcHAREST Souvenir Shops Besides those listed here you should also take a look at Thomas Antiques (listed on page 73). Corcova and Domeniul Coroanei. but be careful. MPolitehnica. Ethic Wine C-3. Dealul Mare around Buzau (which makes excellent reds. unique Romanian wine is Lacrima lui Ovidiu.16:00. it is improving apace. QOpen 10:00 . www.22:00. (+4) 021 407 84 75. You will find this kind of icon at leading souvenir shops (such as those at the Hanul cu Tei in the Old Town). which.22:00. Sun 10:00 . and now.bvswines. tel.baneasashoppingcity. restaurants and cinemas. M Piata Unirii. There aren’t all that many souvenir shops (there are simply not that many tourists to justify them). Food Court Open 10:00 . the country also boasts a number of excellent native grapes. Mon 15:00 . www. www.promenada. the deep reds of the Recas vineyards have an increasingly loyal following. as well as at the shops at the Peasant and Village 2014 . The country’s churches . Galeriile Cuvantul Vietii C-5. There is a wide range of local grape. a Cabernet Sauvignon from Murfatlar. tel. tasting them all before you buy. just three stops from Piata Unirii. you are advised to spend as much as possible when choosing a Romanian wine. An outstanding selection of souvenirs and gifts. Kiseleff 3. A bit like the tourists. Tarnava in central Transylvania (whites) and Cotnari (whites) in Moldova. the Galeriile Cuvantul Vietii. Romanian Wine Romanian wine is generally excellent. Calea Victoriei 16-20. Closed Sun. Religious Icons The Romanian Orthodox church may have its critics but few can dispute the richness of its artistic Calea Victoriei 28.ethicwine. although in our experience once we’ve sat down at this charming place we tend not to get up again until closing time. tel. Thu. There is also a huge religious souvenir shop at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 28. (+4) 0722 32 25 Q Open 10:00 . Romartizana B-4. With more than 220 shops it makes everywhere else look quite small. as well as a few local outfits. P Sun Plaza Calea Vacaresti 391.aficotroceni. made from grapes harvested deliberately late. as quality varies greatly. It is therefore relatively easy to find icons around Bucharest.inyourpocket. Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop . www. however. tel. including Marks & Spencer and H& The best local varieties are probably the noble. Piata Unirii 1. Promenada Mall Calea Floreasca 246B.22:00. a joint venture between Halewood and Marchesi Antinori.13:00. One of Bucharest’s biggest malls. The good news is that you will rarely have to spend much: prices remain relatively low and should stay so given the increasing abundance of great choice. then the communist regime ruined it through under-investment and over-production. While Romania grows (very well) international varieties of grape from Sauvignon Blanc to (some extraordinarily good) Merlot. Finding something unique to take home as a souvenir from Romania is not particularly QOpen 10:00 .when opened in 1999 . (+4) 021 305 71 95.romartizana. In the west. tel. MPiata Victoriei. Please note that this is designed to be a quick guide to a few. Our personal favourites (and we repeat. MUniversitate. most of which are sourced from Romanian peasants. Almost two per cent of Romania’s total agricultural land is given over to vineyards. with loads of top brand names and the added attraction of an IMAX cinema. often colourfully framed. A vast selection of religious souvenirs.22:30.with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts available. www. Stirbey and Jidvei (especially its Feteasca Regala). The cheapest property on the board is Rahova. we apologise in advance. Sat. from icons to full sets of priestly robes. it sells for around 110 tel. MPiata Sudului. the upside of which is that the souvenirs you come across will usually be of a decent quality: the concept of mass-produced crap for non-discerning tourists has yet to come to Bucharest. The story of the Romanian wine industry is a long and complicated one. QOpen 10:00 .ro. QOpen 13:00 21:00. Str. Another somewhat Specialist Wine Stores BvS Wine Bar & Shop as well as a good selection of wines from Cricova in the Republic of Moldova.souvenir-shop. Recently extended in a major redevelopment.was the first mall in the city.22:00. the vast majority of Romanian homes will boast at least a couple of icons on the walls. (+4) 031 425 75 10.sunplaza. What was once Romanian socialism’s showpiece department store is now a good shopping centre in the heart of the city. www. Bucharest Monopoly We have long said that this should be the first thing on any list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. Plaza Romania B-dul Timisoara 26. just past Pizza Hut. Şos. this place . religious books and art. (+4) 021 317 96 61.are usually wonderfully decorated. Closed Sun. strong.inyourpocket. Calea Vitan 55-59.QOpen 10:00 . The largest mall in Bucharest. You can also just pop in for a glass or two. primarily unique items that we think make good souvenirs of a trip to Bucharest (based mainly on the kinds of things we buy as gifts ourselves). tel. The classic board game as you know and love it (or otherwise) given a local twist. QOpen 10:00 . The best known wine making regions in Romania are Dobrogea (reds) and Murfatlar (which makes good reds and decent whites) in the south east. Str. com. run by a friendly Englishman and his lovely wife. With prices usually reflecting quality. Bucureşti-Ploieşti 42D. In short. honeylike Tamaioasa Romaneasca (white). (+4) 021 386 06 00. Good place to buy traditional souvenirs. Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00. It sells not just icons but bibles. while too sweet for many tastes is a unique wine and one of few roses made in Romania. making Romania one of the world’s top 10 wine producers. Perhaps our absolute favourite wine. All the big name international high street stores are here. the Tamaioasa Romaneasca on the Domeniile Tohani label.18:00. Just past the old Baneasa airport you can get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana. tel. Unirea Shopping Centre C-6. (+4) 0722 63 37 89. many boasting superb interior frescoes. Piata Sudului. QOpen 10:00 .22:00. Baneasa Shopping City Şos. tel. while the country’s best reds are made in the south.24:00. ro. MPiata Unirii. Also worth looking out for is Busuioacă de Bohotin. Featuring the usual mix of top stores. Smardan 13. tel.22:00.01:30. (+4) 021 313 14 65. As a general rule the best whites are made in the north and in Transylvania. Covaci 19. there is also a unique rooftop recreation area. Bucuresti Mall Sat 10:00 . Feteasca Regala (white) and the aromatic. A deeply religious people. There are many exceptions.QOpen 10:00 . QOpen 14:00 . (+4) 021 208 29 99. Sat 10:00 . tel. probably the country’s best.21:00. Banu Antonache 55. www. (+4) 021 327 67 00. Closed Mon. these are favourites: we are not claiming that they are Romania’s best wines) include the Chardonnay and Feteasca Regala based brut from the Halewood/Prahova Valley December 2013 . The streets of London have been replaced with the streets of Bucharest. Fri. Sat 17:00 . and the semi-sweet red Rai de Murfatlar. Hundreds of shops. this is currently Bucharest’s most talked-about mall. An excellent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the basement.23:00. yet sweet and syrupy wine from Murfatlar. both of whom really know their stuff. It is not meant to be (and makes no pretence at being) a thorough guide to every possible kind of Romanian souvenir and handicraft. (+4) 021 303 02 08.

huge. QOpen 10:00 . check out the huge Romanian Designers Gallery on the second floor of the Cocor Department Store. but they will certainly be unique. Colourful. B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18.21:00. Loro Piana.19. Rosetti is a gallery of applied art.00 . Kristensen Store Bucuresti B-4. Always has a decent selection of books in English. Mihaela Glavan. tel. and a decent selection of books about Romania and Bucharest. www. Sat 10:00 . head for the Zorzini Gallery on (C-5) Strada Thomas Masaryk. although the two below are well worth a visit. QOpen 10.19:00. Q Open 08:00-16:00.21. the biggest of which is in Piata Universitatii. may not be the cheapest of souvenirs. Piata Obor E-4. More or less everything you can imagine can be found here. aprons. Large bookshop selling a wide range of both Romanian and foreign language books. Casa Frumoasa JW Marriott B-6. Casa Frumoasa Store B-4. Sat 10:00 . with colour being provided by the accessories: waistcoats (for both men and women). plenty of children’s books.14:00. www.21:00. (+4) 0723 33 17 Sat 10:00 . www. it is not what it once was: where once you could buy almost anything here. Bucharest Markets Bucharest’s markets are by and large a shadow of their former selves. WHAT TO bUY IN bUcHAREST Local Designers A pair of handmade shoes from Romania’s top shoe designer. Sat 10:00 . If you are really lucky you might even come across traditional peasant Its NeoGalateca shop sells fashion. Brioni. an exceptional range of non-fiction. www. a small art gallery specialising in classic scenes of Bucharest and Romania always has a great selection of paintings for sale: find it on (C-5) Strada Academiei. peasant and antiques markets at the Peasant Museum: these are usually held once a month.00. Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand). Bus 123 from Piata Unirii will get you here. QOpen 10:00 . Calea 13 Traditional Clothing While all of Romania’s regions have their own traditional designs (a bit like Scottish clans have their own tartan) the basic components of Romanian traditional costume are much the same across the country. www. A good bookshop with a large exhibition space out back that often hosts book and gift fairs. Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. with good selection of English books. QOpen 10:00 www. Sun 11:00 . Marvellous bookshop. For those with more contemporary tastes. tel.20:00.16:00. at (C-6) B-dul Ion Bratianu 29-33. QOpen 10:00 . It’s mayhem. ro. You will find a wide range of designs by many of Romania’s best designers. quality is equally good. Piata Obor.casafrumoasa. Sat 10.00. Calea Victoriei 45. Galateca on (C-5) Strada C.19:00. housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. tel. and everything will be the genuine article. All of Glavan’s designs can be customised: visit her showroom at (C-5) Str. QOpen 10:00 . (+4) 0724 35 30 06. Sun 10.libhumanitas. accessories and designer objects from a number of top local designers. tel. Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu). MObor. j. and always lively.00. anthonyfrost. Stocks a good range of fiction. You should also note that throughout December there are various Christmas gift markets around the city. tel.28 WHAT TO BUY IN BUCHAREST Bucharest Bookshops Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4. MUniversitate. The Athenee Palace Hilton is also this year hosting a market. Traditional shirts and blouses are probably the most commonly found souvenirs. hats and fabric belts. (+4) 021 311 51 kretzulescu@ humanitas. dairy produce. Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4. QOpen 10:00 .17:00. shirts. The best place to find traditional Romanian clothing is probably the shop at the Peasant Museum. and the wrap-around skirts known as fota. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15. although not every weekend: you will simply have to get lucky. Romanian Art Look out for craft fairs being held at the city’s better museums in order to find some gorgeous naive art. (+4) 021 315 52 60. B-dul Lascar Catargiu 40.20:00. Every Sunday morning this place becomes Bucharest’s biggest and busiest flea market. (+4) 021 313 50 35. J. it is now a strictly meat. where although prices are relatively high. Sun 10:00 .22:00. Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu). Sun 10:00 . but look out too for the long.00 . Bucharest’s most famous market. Also look out for occasional arts. A good one though. both the winter kind caciula and the straw clop. QOpen 10:00 .17:00.19:00. Sala Dalles C-5. Suvenir de Bucuresti. Sun 10:00 . Casa Frumoasa Radisson B-4.00 . tel. Closed Mon-Sat. Calea Victoriei 45.20:00. Scabal. QOpen 06:00 .17. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul Casa Frumoasa A network of stores around the city selling only the biggest names in high fashion: T om Ford.21:00. Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu). QOpen 10:00 . (+4) 021 317 34 59. 29 Cărturesti C-5. Sun 10:00 . tel. fruit and vegetable market. Str.18:00.21:00. Blouses. Elegance Boutique tel. MUniversitate.20:00. all prices negotiable. elegance-paris.22:00. MUniversitate. www. (+4) 0733 73 59 30. The Peasant Museum hosts regular such fairs. thin classic apron.casafrumoasa. trousers and skirts are usually (although not always) plain white (often intricately embroidered). Sun 10:00 . Jacob Cohen etc.A. .ro.carturesti. called a catrinta. opinci. Watch your wallet. Salvatore Sat 10:00 . (+4) 0731 03 65 63. a German/Austrian Christkindlmarkt​ where you can warm yourself with a Gluhwein and munch on Schmalzkuchen. (+4) 0722 45 48 82.19:00. crafts. www. gallery and small cafe. The gallery represents three of Romania’s leading contemporary artists: Nicolae Comanescu. usually decorated with ribbon or fabric. Unirii.k. Targul Vitan-Barzesti Sos.20:00. Hats too make great Benjamin Franklin 9. (+40) 722 52 52 72. scarves. For clothes by local designers.

tel. Breakfast and VAT not included. Q 44 rooms. tel.during the summer. and the management is commendably hands-on. The new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city. VAT and local taxes included. Prices from 1000-5500 lei. www. coming as it does with champagne (for those who enjoy such things in the morning).and yet inside its historic facade you will find a most modern place to stay. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state of the art. the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would expect of the brand. Contemporary and welcoming. today’s Grand Hotel Continental is the result of more than two years of loving renovation and restoration. it’s well worth trying out. internet. tel. There is a wide range of rooms to choose from: the best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei. com/bucharest. . It’s open 06:30-22:30. terrific onsite dining and of course this is the home of the English Bar: probably Bucharest’s most famous bar. Can also boast a large swimming pool. tel. the prices are a steal. not least its location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city yet at the same time offering the impression of a retreat.grandhotelcontinental.hotelepoque. MUni- versitate. www. the hotel can also offer the greenest setting in the capital. It is a living piece of the city’s history . Extra bed 120 lei. Extra bed on request in the International stars who value discretion above all else tend to stay here when visiting Bucharest. Prices from €120-515. PTHR6UFLGKDW Calea Dorobantilor 5-7. Prices from € VAT and taxes not included. where the sleek. tel. ask for a room on one of the upper floors. Prices do not include breakfast. tel. there are plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool). and the dining opportunities in general are excellent: there is a wonderful Japanese restaurant.on the top floor) the InterContinental was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania. POTHR6UFLGKDW Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Bucharest Hotel B-3. all of which carry the signatures of top-name designers. Q 257 rooms. Simply put. tel. as you do not find it by chance. though do not think that modern touches are missing. This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of Bucharest. For the great location and for a change from the big chains. (+4) 021 403 00 00. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished. Q 59 rooms. (+4) 021 312 InterContinental C-5. Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for €35 per breakfast is good and for what you get. (+4) 021 310 20 20. VAT or taxes. POTHR6UFLGKDCW Carol Parc Aleea Suter 23-25. www. Prices do not include breakfast and VAT (9%). cocktails. www. (+4) 0372 01 03 00.intercontinental. Prices from 690-2100 lei . Q 285 rooms.crowneplaza. There’s marble at every turn.30 WHERE TO STAY Cream of the Crop Athenee Palace Hilton C-5. Prices include breakfast. big. Q 164 rooms. To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies something of a palatial building that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucharest’s Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. sun terrace . many of whom have been loyal guests for decades. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a number of things going for it. Benihana. Intrarea Aurora 17C. the Carol Park is coquette and secluded: you have to know about this POTHR6FLGKDCW JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel B-6. PTHRUFLGKDCW WHERE TO STAY Grand Hotel Continental C-5. a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere. MUniversitate. meeting rooms.jwmarriottbucharest.hojoplaza. www. there is first class dining in the building. (+4) 021 336 33 77. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great views of the city. www. PHRLGKW Crowne Plaza Bucharest Now here’s a hotel we have no problem in recommending. Prices include breakfast. but offering something a bit different to the bigger players. Making the very best of a wonderful building (which dates from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei. expect only fine. To really get the best out of this place though. With a renowned reputation for individual and friendly service. Epoque B-5. tel. offering great views of Bucharest. VAT not included.carolparchotel.inyourpocket. this has been one of Bucharest’s finest hotels for almost a century. MPiata Romana. A gorgeous place where the finest things are offered to all who pass through its doors. (+4) 021 201 50 00. B-dul Poligrafiei 1. at the beginning of the 1970s. Prices from €115-291 (December). Prices from €280-800.hiltonbucharest. (+4) 021 224 00 34. Prices include local taxes. Prices from €160-410. Str. Indoor pool and health club. Q 272 rooms. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the dates from 1914 . www. Calea 13 Septembrie 90. Today it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for journalists and business people. for they are not. Calea Victoriei 56. on site. PTHRUFGKDCW 32 32. (+4) 021 303 37 77. Breakfast. B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 2-4. Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest (complete with a swimming pool and . classic furnishings and very personal service. Str. but not local taxes (9%). Q 17 rooms. Luxurious. modern exterior is matched by the interiors. Episcopiei 1-3. Prices include breakfast. €131-271 (January). comfortable rooms (and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining options. for the views over the city.

Great buffet breakfast included in the by Vama Veche) reopens its doors after being closed for almost two decades. www. Prices from 500-8500 lei. the NH makes up for that by offering a modern. The contemporary rooms . www.32 WHERE TO STAY big five star hotels. the Majestic’s makes it well worth that little bit extra cash. (+4) 021 310 27 72. wifi throughout. big rooms. It’s worth the money. this hotel .are enormous. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact site until the British bombed it to next week during the Second World War. Izvor 106. tel. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Q 63 rooms.included in the price of your room. PTHR6UFLGKDW Over €150 Alexander Sos. One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest (there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu.ramadamajestic. Q 56 rooms. Q 267 rooms. Prices from €205-800. PTHRUFLGKW Romana. The hotel has a good little spa centre with sauna. (+4) 021 569 51 10/(+4) 021 569 51 19. PTHRUFLGKW ence: many of the rooms have jacuzzis in their bathrooms and are packed with luxuries such as the huge. what you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc.Q 401 rooms. A good on-site steak house keeps you well bucharest. Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished. tel. where the bathrooms boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. Calea Victoriei 63-81. Good place to stay with children and babies: the staff make a point of making them feel welcome. Breakfast not included. Prices include VAT and breakfast. tel. PHRGKW Ramada Majestic B-4. Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers. (+4) 021 311 90 00. Pipera-Tunari 1/VI. The spacious. A gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the more classical buildings of Calea www. tel. www. Calea Victoriei 38-40. while the mural behind reception is alone worth popping in to see. VAT and local Prices from 485-5000 lei. (+4) 021 549 30 many even boasting kitchens. (+4) 021 549 20 00. which you can see from almost all of the rooms. especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Seafood. www. Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei. Shiny and new the main part of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are . (+4) 021 319 44 44. Prices from €100-170. Not located in the most attractive area of the city. Prices include all taxes. luxurious rooms are the main attraction at this high rise in the north of the city. This hotel has been around for a decade now and offers a four/five star experi- Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket. tel. Excellent restaurants.radissonblu.hotelcismigiu. tel. Casa Poporului. Q 73 rooms. (+4) Parliament A-6. tel.a swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. novotel. Prices from €240-1200. MUniversitate. Extra bed €20. high double beds.ramadaplazabucharest. lively lobby bar and a big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of staying here. P-ta Montreal 10.are comfortable and boast brightly coloured décor and gorgeous. www. and there is both an indoor and outdoor pool. The bathrooms are particularly luxurious. So named because it is located behind Romania’s parliament building. a great breakfast and . Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras and a very good on site restaurant. PHRUGKW Marshal Garden C-4. In a city in which even some of the five star hotels lack pools. Great breakfast . B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38. Extra bed €20. millions have been spent making the hotel look better than at any time in its century-old history. POTHR6UFLGKDCW Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center A-1. Prices include breakfast. Prices do not include breakfast. Q 718 right on fashionable Calea Victoriei. www.alexanderhotel. a great breakfast is included and there is even onsite parking. The design of the place is nicely futuristic. Good staff. Q 258 B-dul Mircea Voda 21. VAT or taxes. Q 60 rooms. betray the fact that it was built as part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Price €150. (+4) 021 318 30 00. Prices from €65 -200. the Majestic has long been one of Bucharest’s best hotels. free Wifi. soft cotton sheets on the beds. Q 76 rooms.a real bonus . and the rooms themselves are equally avant garde in design. VAT and local taxes. Worth every penny.January 2014 NH Bucharest D-6. which are among the best we’ve come across in Bucharest. Prices do not include VAT. In a fantastic location right in the heart of the city. As you walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern. (+4) 021 411 99 90. www. Prices include breakfast. and we loved the beds which we think are December 2013 . MUniversitate. (+4) 031 403 05 00.inyourpocket. Few locations are better than this. Rooms are all well-sized and impeccably furnished and come with a host of extras. Prices from € 70-270.which is amongst the city’s best . Excellent. MPiata Ramada Bucharest Parc A-1. PTHRUi FLGKDCW Ramada Plaza Bucharest B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5. tel. Prices include breakfast. There are separate showers.parliament-hotel. Plenty of good dining options. tel. www. Prices from €139-210. double and extra bed rates). www. and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre with sauna and massage contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the rack rates. VAT and local taxes. Prices do not include breakfast and VAT. Prices include breakfast. The scale of the place. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Q 203 rooms. and home to the biggest swimming pool in the city (we think).all of which are in fact suites . smashing breakfast. but only came under the Ramada banner a short while ago. colourful and original. and much bigger bathrooms.hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which . The decor is amazing: bright. modern bathrooms.pullmanhotels. Calea Dorobanti 50B. PHRUFLGKDCW 33 Novotel Bucharest City Centre B-4. Prices from €210-270. PTHUFLGKDW 021 300 05 45. Prices include breakfast (except single. and its cavernous interiors.nh-hotels.hotelmarshalgarden. full of multi-coloured arabesques each floor has a different mood. B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5. Big. (+4) 021 308 85 00.located in one of the best addresses in the city . providing a welcome contrast to the building. Calea Victoriei 37B. so you can swim whatever the weather.while not big . VAT and breakfast. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms. Prices from €160-380. www. MUniversitate. and all in all we think that the square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in with bathrooms particularly impressive. Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment across the road. There’s a fitness centre. Prices include VAT. A high-rise in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park . Extra bed €30. plush hotel close to Bucharest’s high-rise business district of Pipera. Spacious. PiHRFLKDW Cismigiu C-5. Turkish bath and jacuzzi. tel. Q 111 rooms. The Hotel Parc has been around a a fantastic place and one of few new Bucharest hotels to really perk up our attention. local taxes and POTHR6UFLGKDCW WHERE TO STAY Radisson Blu B-4.

tel.thhotels. the 1880. not least full. Bathrooms are good. Extra bed €20. Str. bang on Bucharest’s version of Broadway (it’s all relative). Prices from €109-129.34 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 35 the Central was totally renovated last year and is now one of the best (and best value) stays in the city.Q 37 rooms. Rooms are big and modern. Extra bed €20. such as LCD televisions. PRGKW Residence Domenii Plaza Ion Brezoianu PTHRLGKDW Duke C-4. It’s a decent hotel. PHRLGKW 425 58 60/(+4) 0771 65 40 09. especially given the size of the rooms and the terrific breakfast spread they lay on every morning for guests. The wrought iron beds. make sure you choose this one. tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and good bucharest. Smart.angelo-bucharest. Top onsite restaurant too.residencehotels. www. and there’s an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets outside. (+4) 0372 08 00 December 2013 . Good value for the money. PTHRLGKW 021 317 41 86/(+4) 021 317 41 87. especially compared to those surrounding It even has a sauna and jacuzzi. Prices include VAT. (+4) 031 140 02 00. In a building on a street hidden a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of central Bucharest. Transport to and from the airport is complimentary. tel. Now this place is central. Plenty of little luxuries. PTHR6UGW services. all taxes and breakfast. You want central? Well this place is central. MGara de Nord. Prices include all taxes. Prices from €99-129. ro. Central by name. free Wifi throughout. Prices include breakfast. The hotel closest to Bucharest’s Otopeni airport.hotelarmonia. Q 35 rooms. www. Prices from €130-170. Slap. Rooms are well-sized. modern and dead central. (+4) 021 203 65 00. www.capitalplaza. All the rooms. tel. General Berthelot 9. B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54. VAT not included. complete with sauna and jacuzzi. MUniversitate. What more could you want? For your money you are getting a good deal here: the rooms are big and well furnished with plenty of mod cons. bucharest. this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past. about five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei. Great buffet breakfast. Prices include all taxes and breakfast. central by nature. Str. ro.hotelduke. perfect for tired business types in need of evening relaxation. as is the newly added spa. www. The rooms are big and furnished in a modern style. The rooftop terrace has fine views of what is the city’s best residential area. residencehotels. Prices from €30-50. A wonderful villa. big and have stunning bathrooms. The restaurant is also worth a and a fitness centre complete with sauna. Al. Prices include breakfast and VAT. (+4) 021 312 48 Berthelot B-5. Fantastic hotel in a good area of the capital.January 2014 Armonia D-4. Str.thhotels. Staff happy and smiley too. and the food in the restaurant better than most of Bucharest’s restaurants: it is really that good. (+4) 021 312 04 Bucharest In Your Pocket . tel. You could quite literally throw a stone from the rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we do not recommend it).ro. tel. (+4) 021 300 30 50. There is high speed Wifi throughout. basically. Q 49 rooms. It’s a classy place for classy people.zhotels. com. Not cheap. Prices include VAT. Prices include breakfast. (+4) 031 55. complete with sauna. www. www. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDW 77. Q 33 rooms. (+4) amongst the best in Bucharest. PTHR6ULGKW rooms that come complete with what have to be contenders for the ‘best bathrooms in the city’ prize we often mention but never get round to handing out. (+4) 021 315 56 36. steam bath and enormous jacuzzi. Extra bed €20. amongst cinemas and theatres. In good weather the terrace at the back is a great place to take your breakfast (included in the price of a room). Q 33 rooms. Beds get high marks for their excellent mattresses. and its bright exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas. B-dul Dacia 33. understated atmosphere. and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. and there’s free and fast Wifi throughout.inyourpocket. Q 62 rooms. Prices from €159-270. Q 95 rooms. www. VAT and breakfast. Free Wifi is a bonus. Not altogether that inviting from the outside. Q 298 rooms. bathrooms have tubs and showers. Ion Nistor 4. the Armonia offers terrific (though not all that big) Capital Plaza B-4. PTHR6UGKW Under €100 Andy A-4. VAT not included. Str. Q 32 rooms. serving good international cuisine. Ion Brezoianu 13. offering large. Q 43 rooms. local taxes and breakfast. tel. one of the best hotels in the city is this smart place at the northern end of the city centre. PTHRUi FLGKW Central B-5. Looking for the business traveller not wanting to pay five star prices. There are little touches of class all over the hotel that suggest they really care. ro. Q 177 rooms. Extra bed €20. (+4) 021 223 19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00. Prices from €75-145. PR6GKDW Residence Arc de Triomphe A-3. www. MUniversitate. there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. PTHRLGKDW nescu 33. Str. excellent value rooms and super €100-150 Angelo Airporthotel Bucharest Calea Bucurestilor 283. A proverbial stone’s throw from Piata Romana. The Angelo is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts. for example. tel. Prices from €140-180. Clucerului 19. tel. tel. tel. all taxes and breakfast. Prices include all taxes. and if you are in two minds as to which station hotel to stay in. Witing 2. Prices from €100-150. while the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably fluffy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm. with unobtrusive colours and smart lines. and who go out of their way to make sure you do not get ripped off by dodgy taxi drivers: such attention to detail is to be applauded. VAT and breakfast. (+4) 021 224 50 44/(+4) 0372 15 06 00. Constanti- Opera B-5. You can see Gara de Nord from your bedroom window if you stay here: you can decide for yourself if that’s good or bad. www. studios and apartments are bright. It also has a fantastic spa. we think that you get value for money. Prices include breakfast. Prices from €90-120.andyhotels. We like the staff who are always friendly. Extra bed €10. PHRUFGKW Z Executive Boutique Hotel C-5. Prices include VAT. Calea Mosilor 112. MPiata Prices from €90-150. The breakfast room is great. are fabulous. Str. Str. Prices include all taxes and Prices from €90-120. tel. Prices from €65-75. this place offers real luxury and a quiet. and as such we think this is a great place for families with children to stay when visiting the capital. Q 21 rooms.

ro. Extra bed €20. (+4) 021 231 22 83/(+4) 0728 60 22 83. Str. VAT and breakfast. Calea Grivitei 143.hotelcharter. sauna. A pleasant walk to both Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii. MPiata Mun- Golden Tulip Victoria B-4. PTHRLGKW given a real lift when it became a good old Ibis some several years ago now. (+4) 021 319 17 98. Happy. www. Q 92 rooms. PHR6ULGKW Ibis Palatul Parlamentului B-6. at the Curtea Veche. www. J.inyourpocket. Nerva Traian 3A. Literally a stone’s throw from where Bucharest began. Daniel Danielopolu 44A. people. The hotel is a decent place offering big-ish rooms. Breakfast. Wifi. the Golden T ulip is a fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. MAurel Vlaicu. Q 87 rooms. Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving. facing Piata Unirii. Having been around so long the Minerva is entitled to a gold watch. www. Prices include all taxes. L. tel. The surroundings are leafy and yet the city’s business district is just across the street. Really: these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest. flatscreen TVs. Other than that it is a fairly standard Ibis hotel.36 WHERE TO STAY DoubleTree by Hilton D-7. complete with jacuzzi. good bathrooms. we doubt anyone will be complaining. Str. Prices from €49-95. PR6ULGKW Hello Hotels B-4. MStefan cel Mare. Still. Q 8 rooms. and as far as value for money goes we think this is one of the best deals in the city.goldentuliptimes. Q 147 rooms. PTH6UFLKDCW (€9 per person). you get a large amount of room indeed. ramadanorth. it remains a great choice for business people who pay their own bills: you get great service. Good cafes (there are two) to choose from on the ground floor: one has a covered terrace. A hotel for more than 40 years this building (and the whole area) was tel. There is Wifi throughout and a host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. Hotel Nonna Mia We love the place. Q 161 rooms. A genuinely welcome addition to Bucharest and the Old Town. Prices from €50-65. Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau park. Chile 10. (+4) 021 311 15 55. Q 21 rooms. If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps the best place in Bucharest to come.inyourpocket. Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. It has great rooms . The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite the station.hotelmonaco. tel. PTH6UGKW WHERE TO STAY 37 Golden Tulip Times Prices from €85-105. (+4) 0372 12 18 00.ibishotels.goldentulipbucharest. Homely rooms with bags of character. Q 150 rooms. tel. a dead-central location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the five-stars charge. All three offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms. Izvor 82-84. all taxes and breakfast. www. Prices from €33-69. the usual services. PTLW tel. (+4) 021 212 55 58. com. (+4) 021 310 56 68. tel. Prices from €85-200. B-dul Decebal Q 81 rooms. all taxes and breakfast. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor.amongst the biggest. Inside the rooms are big. Breakfast not included. big desks and comfy armchairs. The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro Golf.Q 70 rooms. B-dul Barbu Văcărescu 164A. it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. with rooms and services to match anywhere. and the beds are large. with commendably big bathrooms. comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. VAT and local taxes. tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16. www. Str. (+4) 021 208 61 00. complete with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than many a five-star. PHRFGKDW Minerva B-4. Franceza 60. Prices include VAT. Calea Victoriei 166. Prices from €49-79. tel. the DoubleT ree is something of a beacon of glass and steel in an area not known for anything except monumental socialist architecture. The Europa Royale is a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings. there is a lively bar and a good spa. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries in the city. Str. Prices from €115-250. Located just off Bulevardul Unirii. Prices include local taxes. MPiata Victoriei. just as you love them from anywhere else on the PTHRUFLGKDW Europa Royale Bucharest C-6. VAT and local taxes included. Calderon 74. Prices include VAT and local taxes. classy and we found the staff exemplary. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are more than adequate. A nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre to be within walking distance. www. multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in Bucharest’s hotels.January 2014 . MPiata Romana. For your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here. (+4) 021 352 87 19. few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good value stay. the Caro Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city. it does boast non-smoking rooms and very good Str. and the outstanding value budget twostar Caro Horoscop. Q 188 December 2013 . Breakfast not included. a good room (a choice of smoking or non-smoking). Ramada Hotel & Suites Bucharest North C-6. www.hellohotels. ro/hotel-nonnamia. The kind of place you feel should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good value for money. MGara de Nord. Prices from €57-150. Extra bed €29.europaroyale. Prices include all taxes. good bathrooms and kitchenettes. Prices include VAT. Str. and there is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant. Prices include VAT and taxes. and they cost about €1 per square metre. Prices from €75-111. Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size. and all have enough room for bathtubs. Prices include VAT and local taxes. www. www. For what you pay at this hotel. (+4) 021 401 10 bucharest. is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for a relatively small amount of money. Add in great staff and a quiet location and you have one of Bucharest’s real bargains. Prices from €20-55. Turkish bath and (€9 per person). There is an elegance to the decoration that suggests they’ve taken real time and effort over things. Prices from €40-50. This. Prices include all taxes. (+4) 021 300 91 00. though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes or so to the city centre. Ibis Gara de Nord A-4. on Charter Drumul Odaii 1D. PTRLGW Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. and at prices as low as these. a four-star establishment offering very swish rooms. Gheorghe Manu 2-4. and not as pricey as you might think. Q 6 rooms. www. www. Otopeni. www. PTHR6ULGKW Caro C-1. Prices include breakfast. Str. All come furnished well with terrific beds. tel.nonnamia. Find the place a short walk from the station. Calea Grivitei 143. VAT and breakfast. A bed and breakfast with an Italian twist (the fantastic restaurant on the ground floor). Q 250 rooms. Two stars never looked so good. (+4) 021 200 62 70. Prices from €78-98. MPiata Unirii. Breakfast not included. Close to the airport (on the other side of the road to McDonalds) this place is perfect if you have an early flight. tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00.doubletree.minerva. Bright and modern in design we think it’s suited best to business travellers looking to get great value for their company’s dollar. There is free wifi at the Caro Golf. PTHRUFLGKW Boutique Hotel Monaco C-5. Prices include VAT and breakfast. MGara de Nord. VAT and breakfast. tel. The bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than they are. VAT and breakfast.

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Luxurious without overdoing it. for-rent. Cobalcescu. Prices from €30-40. and a number of singles for those who can splash the extra cash. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great breakfast and are a wealth of inside info about Bucharest. Str. www. Bright. Note that they have only shared. (+4) 0734 33 30 20. Prices from €30-80/night. Extra bed €10. Q 13 rooms. tel. PHGW WHERE TO STAY 39 Hostels & Villas (+4) 021 336 21 27/(+4) 0726 45 42 03. 6. George Valentin Bibescu 33. PTLGKW Doors Hostel C-7. VAT and breakfast. Cleaning is free. two and three bedroom apartments in and around the city centre. POTFLGKW Grand Accommodation B-5. Prices include all taxes. Str. colourful and rather spacious hostel a short walk south from Piata Unirii. sc. with its sky light and raised sleeping area. Rembrandt C-5. QOpen 08:00 .taniahotel. Q 20 rooms (5 singles/doubles €50. serviced studios. Extra bed €18. Q 5 rooms. tel. Smardan 11. www. Prices from €35-55.38 WHERE TO STAY Short Term Rental Apart Homes Breakfast not included. expect to find original 1920s wooden floors and period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute technology. Extra bed available. Clean. Prices from €20-54. www. MGara de Nord. fax (+4) 021 319 27 56.doorshostel. Vila 11 A-4. Prices from €59-99.flowersbb. Q 32 rooms. tel. Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms. Prices include taxes. Prices include breakfast. A. tel. tastefully decorated and offer excellent value for money. tel. PHRUFLGKW and have excellent en suite bathrooms. bright and airy style. Str.Q 26 rooms.€100).ro.sarrogliahotel. Prices include breakfast. Q 21 rooms (6 studios €40. 5 triples €85. tel. rezervari@taniahotel. 5 apartments €150). VAT and local taxes. Q 18 rooms. Ion Campineanu 29.barrio. amongst much else. and are furnished in a modern. ap. Selari 5. X/2. (+4) 021 311 49 27. (+4) 031 average. T6GW X Hostel C-6. Grigore Cobalcescu 9. from studios to two-bedroomed places. an all you can eat breakfast and free the bathrooms are tremendous: all have bathtubs. MPiata Unirii. There’s free internet for guests. VAT and local taxes included. VAT not included. Str. Str. Prices from € M Nearest metro station K Restaurant Villa Barrio B-4. PTR6GW Cert Accommodation B-5. Q 3 rooms (12 bed mixed dorm €8. tel. clean dorms and bathrooms. Prices include breakfast and local taxes. aparthomes. Always full (reserve well in advance) you will see why when you arrive. 3. Prices from €74-110. Breakfast not included. just first class hospitality from great staff who will make your stay as comfortable as possible. www. a big fitness room with loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and swimming pool. Good hostel run by two young locals. and each comes with an individual feel to it. Rooms are not big but are tel. one.hoteltrianon. PRGKW Tania-Frankfurt C-6. Sarroglia Hotel C-5. Q 16 rooms.inyourpocket. Very close to Piata Unirii this place is exactly what it claims to be: a proper. There are also studios with kitchenettes for longer stays. Rooms are good value. What’s more. Breakfast included. MPiata Romana. Str. Handy for transport the place has immaculately clean dorms and a single for a little extra privacy. www./fax (+4) 021 311 98 48. Prices include local taxes and VAT. dorm facilities and family suites. PTHR6UGKW 10 bed mixed dorm €9. Q 24 rooms. Prices from €75-118. PTRUGKW 412 60 00. Str. equipped with all mod-cons Flower’s B & B D-5. once the residence of the legendary Cartagiu family. The Rembrandt is what happens when people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs – unsurprisingly – to the same people). (+4) 0722 36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50. Olimpului 13. MPiata Unirii. 5 suites €100. A wide range of city-centre apartments. tel. www. tel. opposite Cismigiu Park. Prices from €85-133. with a very central locations in wonderful old apartment buildings. PTR6LGW Midland B-4. VAT and breakfast. Prices include local taxes and VAT. (+4) 021 232 04 06. MUniversitate. A very good selection of fully furnished. www. Str. VAT and breakfast. mixed dorms: there are no private rooms. Plantelor 2. As such it is probably not the best place in town for a quiet night in. www. (+4) 0722 49 59 00. The location is close enough to the centre to be attractive while remaining residential: this is a quiet area of 6 bed mixed dorm €11). and they can also arrange car hire and airport transfers. as is Wifi and bright and Vasile Lascar 59. Bang in the centre of the city this villa. they have someone on call 24 hours for any emergencies. is a terrific choice for anyone looking to be close to the city’s best night spots and restaurants. often in the form of a full-wall mural. little fuss. Prices include local taxes and VAT. A hostel with something of partycentral reputation. (+4) (+4) 021 319 27 58/(+4) 031 104 20 VAT and breakfast. Breakfast not December 2013 . Str. Cheaper rates for longer stays.Q 8 rooms. Balcesti 9.20:00. Str. yet the young crowd that frequents the place hardly mind www. Inside the rooms are simple. Located in a classic Bucharest house it benefits from a gorgeous garden/courtyard. The hotel’s restaurant and lounge provide colour and panache. PTHR6UFLGKDCW 021 313 93 15. just a shake or two away from the city’s best nightlife. (+4) 021 312 76 13. You can’t do much better than this cracking place on Str. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath). Good. This is a cracking little place in the very heart of Old Town. (+4) 0720 77 27 72. Prices from €8. MPiata Unirii. PTHRGW bucharest. bl. VAT and local taxes. Prices include local taxes and VAT. ap. www. PT6GKDW Symbol Key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet (Standard) F Fitness centre D Sauna W WiFi A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Disabled facilities L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms C Swimming pool Trianon B-5. VAT included. Breakfast included. www. Str. Breakfast.Q 232 rooms. Biserica Amzei 3. contemporary and architecturally stunning hotel that looks expensive yet costs relatively little.January 2014 . maid service twice a week and offer a variety of other services. Piata Walter Maracineanu 1-3. Str. Few frills.rembrandt. 15 apartments €55 . Prices include all taxes VAT and breakfast. The building is a superb Secession renovation on a street that boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is a shame not all are up to this standard. www. Prices include all taxes.xhostel. The rooms are chic and pack a real punch in the comfort stakes. Institutul Medico Militar 11. Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished apartments and villas to suit all pockets in good locations available for both short and long term Prices from €49-99. tel. in Bucharest . Biserica Amzei 22. The best is the split level sky room.50-25.cert-accommodation. (+4) 021 314 53 23. tel. Prices include all taxes. Q 6 MPiata Romana. as well as a villa in Baneasa. homely bed and breakfast. In warmer months you can have your breakfast outside in the lovely courtyard.

23:30. with long bench seats. presentation and quality of ingredients. which foodies have been raving about for years. Bucharest’s first upmarket Chinese restaurant combines all the cuisines of that great country and delivers them to your plate with real aplomb. David Emmanuel 4A. The menu has a few British dishes . chicken with beer and even some fondue. QOpen 11:30 . It is also one of the biggest. (+4) 021 320 35 Symbol key P Air conditioning T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled V Home delivery M Nearby metro station W Wifi 6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted L Guarded parking E Live music G Non-smoking S Take away Fine Dining Morgan La Dud C-5. €€€ PTLSW QuanQuan B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 1A. The menu is adventurous and features all sorts of dishes. where you pick the ingredients you want and hand them over to the chef who cooks it all on a hot plate for you. It’s fun. (+4) 021 211 31 51. bright and airy and service is terrific.24:00. Icoanei sensational in every way: invention. tel. many of which are specially imported. championsrestaurant.23:00. We love it. Finally. In a word. you can’t go wrong here. tel. where you can get a decent Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.a genuine fusion of flavours .ro. Famously good cocktails. (+4) 021 403 19 17. Last food order 23:00. Dating back to the 1980s this little piece of Bucharest foodie history was the first Chinese restaurant in the land. Expect superior. The crispy duck is perhaps the best in the Str. Prices are Suddenly Bucharest has a choice of great Chinese restaurants. with a nice covered terrace overlooking busy Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu. tel. tel. taste. but worth the trip. especially if there is a group of you. Tremendous value. Str. whatever time of day you visit. www. €€ PBSW Waterloo D-5. This is a rough and ready type place. QOpen 12:00 .pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Top selection of wines too. as its longevity (no mean feat in a city where good eateries come and go fast) testifies. (+4) 0721 51 22 91. Belgian 88/(+4) 0740 17 10 90. It’s a taxi-ride from the city centre. tel. Silvestru 3. Sperantei 7. dinner with the crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your mates. Good prices and great value all round: well worth a look. The food is €€€ PLVESW Restaurant 5 Elemente C-5. tel. To get the best out of this place though round up three friends and go for one of the set menus.but best of all we like the ciorba de vacuta . Str. The food . (+4) 031 425 47 47. better than ever.24:00. One of the largest Hard Rock’s in Europe.orasul-interzis. December 2013 . €€€€ PVSW 0766 33 15 11. recommended. It’s big. www. tel. and they even serve lobster. Alecu Russo €€€ PLESW RESTAURANTS 41 Asian 021 269 21 88.morganladud. Sat 12:00 01:00. (+4) 021 206 62 61.restaurantmongol. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well looked after and have their own menu). mainly northern Chinese food made of the finest ingredients. www. Popular with all sorts of expats who have a regular rendezvous here. and there are various set menus for the indecisive. now we think of it. Str. QOpen 12:30 . from the pasta (all made on the premises) to the exciting variations of Romanian classics (sarmale made with mutton and rolled in British The Trafalgar Pub Dud in Romanian means mulberry.January 2014 .one of the best in the city. including a quick lunch for busy office types. (+4) NEW meal for little money while enjoying usually decent company. €€€ PTLSW Hard Rock Cafe A-2. In fact.inyourpocket. The jumbo prawns with cauliflower for example: where else will you find such a combination in this town? The place itself is nicely done out: we loved the white wooden floors in particular. a fact undisputed by anyone we’ve ever met. dare we say it. courtesy of Ethic Wine.01:00. Guinness on draught at a decent price.restaurantnanjing. It is still one of the best. €€€€ PLESW The Gang Restaurant C-4.24:00.trafalgarpub. such as the first class gong bau duck. Bucharest gets a proper Mongolian restaurant. The Gang has moved to a new location closer to the centre of town than before . Q Open 12:00 .24:00. Sat 12:00 . You will find the Nan Jing on the ground floor of the Minerva hotel. the setting is good.waterloo-taverne. www. tel. The menu is far more adventurous than you might imagine. on the coast in Mamaia. Fri. Besides the burgers you will find a great selection of American pub food.03:00. is. Still serving one of the very best burgers in Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from an endless choice of toppings). Kiseleff 32. as well as Tex Mex treats and even some more refined. desserts are as outsized and sweet as they should featuring duck with white sauce. Q Open 12:00 . Let’s rock. Str. tel. Traian 188.we can recommend the Spinach and Stilton Pie bucharest. this place is a pub and bistro in one. and the service comes from smiley waitresses and expert bar staff.inyourpocket.40 RESTAURANTS American Champions B-6. Fri. www. (+4) 021 318 12 85. Str. QOpen 12:00 . so you will understand the reason behind the name of this place the minute you see an impeccably preserved Morgan and step inside the gorgeous courtyard complete with mulberry tree in the middle. tel. This place is brought to you by the team behind the uber-successful Imperial. Get there now. Accepts Amex: not everywhere in Bucharest does. (+4) Chinese Orasul Interzis D-5. €€€ PSW MPiata Victoriei/Piata Romana. Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel).24:00. and the ciolan cu varza . On weekday afternoons from 14:0017:00 their Happy Lunch offers a 50 per cent discount. www. €€€ PLVBSW Restaurant Nan Jing B-4. and more televisions showing sport than you could ever hope for. (+4) 0752 70 03 00. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a cut above the usual. Gheorghe Manu 2-4. slow food options. the portions of everything here are enormous: even the children’s servings are very healthy indeed. www. the seafood nest and the spicy crab. QOpen 12:00 . QOpen 12:00 . www. QOpen 12:00 .ro. Str.

On the 18th floor of one of the tallest office buildings in the city. NEW For restaurants in Bucharest’s Old Town see pages 72-87 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Nicolae Golescu 17. €€€€ PEBSW www. Str.24:00.the menu changes daily . this place is a mini-revolution on the Bucharest dining scene and worthy of your time. for example). The conservatory-esque setting is terrific. escargot. QOpen 12:00 . €€€€ PLSW bucharest. €€ PSW D-4. Str. €€€ PESW Ici et La C-4.24:00. (+4) 0720 33 35 50. Serving great coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate. serving breakfast. (+4) 021 230 07 70. The menu features a number of simple. outstanding wines and all served in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here.features something new and exciting to try. as well as friendly and efficient staff. it does. QOpen 12:00 . Leffe and Hoegaarden available on tap . Top it all off with the magnificent creme brulee. this is one of the top five restaurants in Bucharest. in Piata Amzei. A big. Duck that takes 48 hours to prepare.22:00. with food to perfect for a casual dinner.iconicfwd. Closed Mon. tel. the central and original Embassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town) has been around a few years now. Sun 12:00 . €€ PIBW La Belle Epoque Escargot Bistro The Harbour B-4. QOpen 11:00 . tel. (+4) 0733 73 59 well as more than a few nice Belgian touches in and around the bar.QOpen 17:00 .frenchbakery. www. Str. P-ta Presei Libere 3-5. As regular readers will know we are suckers for an open kitchen. MPiata Romana. P-ta Lahovari 8. Sun.boutiquedupain. €€€ PVEBSW Iconic Food Wine & Design by Camelia Sucu B-3. tel.inyourpocket. QOpen 12:00 .ro. new-wave French dishes which . top place.24:00. it is very good. this place doesn’t need to serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately. With a range of fine wines from one of Romania’s best vineyards this place is top notch. (+4) 0728 44 33 00. Toamnei 101. and something of a legendary dessert menu. QOpen 08:30 . Sun 8:30 . Sat 11:00 . P-ta Amzei 10-22. tel. We like it.23:00.and much else besides (including some great cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as the evening wears Mon 12:00 . (+4) 021 319 72 57. The White Duchess gateaux makes for a smashing dessert. MPiata Romana. Mendeleev tel. beautifully presented and supremely healthy www. While the food is more local than Belgian.24:00. QOpen 11:30 . A top location.22:00. They are rather proud of their smoked salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features plenty of affordable Aleea Alexandru 7. The frequently changing menu is a mix of cuisines and flavours and always . In short.24:30. Str. and the small selection of hot meals of an evening .with www. €€€ PLW Embassy C-4. tel. www. There are plenty of Belgian beers on offer . Radu Beller 6. (+4) 0746 79 50 29. Simply put. and in all likeliness you will stay until very late. Str. with office workers going out of their way to stop here for fresh supplies. an onion soup of the like we’ve never eaten in Bucharest. an eatery in the middle of a design showroom for which he has teamed up with local entrepreneur Camelia Sucu.for this city . €€ PLVSW RESTAURANTS 43 French C-5.widely regarded as one of the city’s best . A little non-descript from the outside. (+4) 021 310 33 02. Serving a good gourmet burger . bright surroundings. We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town.are very well-priced.23:00. QOpen 12:00 . www.January 2014 . while featuring a great selection of French wines.24:00. Last orders 23:00. Str. labelleepoque. There’s a wine bar on the premises too. The atmosphere is relaxing. Fri. Lunch or dinner with a view? This is the place to come people. QOpen 12:00 .com. whose stock is one of the city’s best. Sun 12:00 . A top.02:00. tel. MPiata Romana. relaxed pace to hang out. and that is what we have here: sit and watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous homemade French meal.42 RESTAURANTS market. Expect superb.inyourpocket. www. QOpen 10:00 . Sat. lunch and evening meals in fresh. Excellent wine list which. www.24:00.03:00. Popular with a wealthy crowd. Clopotarii Vechi B-2. it is a sensational French restaurant where the love and care the chef has for his food oozes onto your plate. with lots of seasonal specials. We usually do.harbour. tel. this is a gourmet’s delight. and late in the evening it becomes a smooth. The selection of morning pastries is the best in the city. This place is the work of David Contant. Academiei 28-30. (+4) 0733 50 03 00. www. Sun 13:00 . Combining a contemporary setting with fine food. though the real joy of this place is its view to the Food & Drink 18 Lounge A-1. bright and open plan Belgian beer cafe on Radu Beller in Dorobanti. Sat. MPiata Romana. for once acknowledges that the New World can make a decent grape too. This is in fact more bistro than anything. QOpen 11:30 . For lunch there is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else. served in an environment which implores you stick around and indulge a little.01:00. This latest Contant creation is indeed an icon in the making. and there are outstanding wines and champagnes to complement the food. and in this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it is.18lounge. we (and our kids!) love this place. www. fresh snails. tel. €€€ SW Boutique du Pain mulberry leaves. December 2013 . Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a lot more. MUniversitate. It had to happen. a chef for whom no Bucharest foodie will need an introduction: he has been creating consistently brilliant food for years.embassy-club.icietla. €€€€ PLSW Veranda Casa Frumoasa B-4. €€€ SW French Bakery Le Restaurant C-5.24:00. It is also a self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a little trendy but never kitsch. A French restaurant that actually delivers the goods time after time yet does so in an atmosphere that begs you to spend more time here. Closed Mon. (+4) 0733 50 14 matter how often you come .20:00. the food better than average. MPiata Victoriei. Bucharest foodies: this is the place for you.02:00. Closed Sun. (+4) 0731 45 36 08. More than just a restaurant the lunch is a great

We like the long list of vegetarian dishes. QOpen 13:00 . Kumar’s Agra Palace D-6. Episcop Radu 3. MPiata Victoriei.24:00. when there was precious little choice in Bucharest for people wanting something a little different. You will find a rich range of dishes on offer: all presented on the menu in their original language. Calea Rahovei 157. Biserica Amzei 30. www. First class cocktail list. The place itself is nice and the staff know their stuff. Serving giant portions of great German sausages (all made on the premises) as well as pork knuckles. Also of note is that the owner has his own buffalo farm in Transylvania. with the menu changing more or less every day: check the blackboard for today’s specials. This legendary beer hall looks better than ever. The onion bhajis remain Bucharest’s best. a little more spicy. stuck up in Pipera. tel.23:00. while the lamb rogan josh never fails to hit the spot. Worth a visit. 180 lei/pers. www.becaskitchen. Str. Following much the same path as that trodden by Violeta’s Vintage Kitchen.spice things up for the more experienced Indian diner. pickles and the like. ro. Beyond the Warhol prints on the walls this is French du Closed children under seven free. Roasted duck breast with rice and kumquat sauce and sea bass with ratatouille and celery sauce are just two of the standout dishes we entirely recommend. €€€€ PLW 252 51 57. A good Indian-in-Bucharest option where the menu boasts no fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare treat in these parts where the raw material is so hard to find. now as ever (and it has been around for more than 15 years). The food is fantastic. Mihai Eminescu 80.benat. Povernei 15-17. Does home delivery too. You usually need a reservation at weekends.16:00. (+4) 021 201 50 €€€ PLVSW International Balkan Bistro MPiata Romana. the jewel in the HoJo’s dining crown. (+4) 031 437 96 03. Str. Our only complaint would be that there seemed to be no German beer on draught. . tel. www. €€€ Indian Haveli D-4. Those who know their food know that this place is one of the top ten restaurants in the land. Not as dear as you might think either. www. Really. With German food as good as anywhere in the city (the potato and sausage soup is a winner. See you there. QOpen 12:00 – 00:00. tel. Str. tel. hojoplaza. €€ PGSW Price Guide (Based on a good meal with wine) €€€€ Expensive (More than €30 per person) €€ Middling (€10-€20 per person) €€€ Not cheap (€20-30 per person) € Cheap (Less than €10 per person) 021 350 31 14/(+4) 0769 06 01 60. Romanian and Bulgarian food can sometimes be very blurred tel. Q Open 12:00 .01:00. steaks top the bill.23:00. and though prices reflect the qual- ity you will not argue at the end of the evening. Sat 14:00 . knowing diners come to enjoy the flavours and smells of the superb fusion cuisine. 18:30-22:30. where the sauces are by nature toned down for locals but where chef will . 19:00 . QOpen 12:00 .24:00. Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel Continental) bucharest. www. QOpen 12:00 . tel. Good place for a simple pint of German beer too. €€€€ PSW RESTAURANTS 45 Fusion Plaza). Found at the Pullman. QOpen 12:00 . tel. Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei serving excellent value hot lunches. www. On our last visit we went for the lamb with spinach in tomato sauce which was as good as we had hoped. Now there is plenty of choice but we still trot up to Barka whenever we can. one of our favourite places in Bucharest. As you would expect. Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand German 0737 50 01 50. thankfully. of which the Bhangan Bharta (aubergine with tomato and onion) is a particular favourite. (+4) 021 233 94 62. and that the edges between Serbian. this restaurant is a magnificent place serving wonderful. Str. and regular live music and arty events. Sat 09:00 . €€ PLESW Beraria Bragadiru B-7. tel.23:00. children between seven and 12 years half price.grandhotelcontinental. this is probably the best eatery we’ve been to so far at this particular top-notch hotel.23:00. Q Open 12:00 . Stockholm 9. www. €€€ PVEBSW Karishma D-5. 190 lei/pers. Str. home-cooked food. Iancu Capitanu 36. Q Open 12:30-15:30. chosen from one of the most adventurous menus in the city. Mon 19:00 . but then dishes like scallops with mash potatoes and a truffle and veal sauce never can be. Kids under 10 free. €€€ PLGW Barbizon Steak House A-1. tea. tel. including an extensive range of vegetarian food. (+4) Barrio by Embassy B-4. Greek. P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center). At Avalon.barrio.24:00.and usually inventive . coffee and cakes. MPiata Romana. €€€ ESW Beca’s Kitchen C-4. Turkish.January 2014 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. (+4) 021 318 30 00/ (+4) 021 202 16 35. Sunday Brunch 12:00 .ro.inyourpocket. Very interesting indeed. where simple yet perfect flavours are allowed to breathe by a gifted chef who cooks for his customers as though he is cooking for his best mates.15:00. Convincingly authentic Indian cuisine served in a brightly decorated villa. (+4) 021 224 10 04. €€€ PKSW Die Deutsche Kneipe C-3. Terrific. 90 lei Str. MPiata Romana.22:00. (+4) 0372 01 03 00. www.pullmanhotels.15:30. (+4) 0725 21 06 08. €€€€ PLSW Avalon B-3. and sells fantastic buffalo telemea cheese here at the restaurant. QOpen 09:00 . Fri. Look out December 2013 .with pleasure .haveli. (+4) 0733 22 27 77. QOpen 10:00 . The place itself is gorgeously simple in its decor. There is much more besides of course.23:00. Av. €€ PNSW Now. Kumar has been one of Bucharest’s top Indian chefs for more than a decade.on the menu (which changes regularly) and a good new wine to go with our meal. Good wine list (we like the inclusion of Moldovan wines) and an open kitchen is always welcome.44 RESTAURANTS La Cantine de Nicolai B-4. cafe and restaurant (the place works as all three) where besides expertly mixed cocktails you can enjoy some sensational food. www.23:30. Unfortunately his Agra Palace was until recently something of a culinary outpost. salads. he has opened up a new location close to the city centre. Wonderful bar. QOpen 15:00 . tel. Possibly Bucharest’s best curry house. ro. (+4) 021 211 03 90. tel.23:00. and the chefs will happily tone down (or up) all dishes according to your spice tolerance levels. It is not cheap. QOpen 12:00 . kraut and the www. MUniversitate. at once homely and welcoming.karishma. they keep the prices down and their punters very happy.24:00.agrapalace. Sănătescu 1. The food is as good as you would expect (we had a seriously hot lamb vindaloo) and there is home delivery if you live close enough. Closed Mon. We have been coming here since the last century. MPiata Romana. Special. Every time we visit (and we visit as often as we can) we find something new and interesting . tel. 18:00 . and what steaks! All the beef is shipped in fresh from South America. B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8. A restaurant brave enough to admit that food in this part of the world is truly Balkan. www. The onion bhajis are good too. (+4) 021 Barka Saffron A-2. Str.lacantinedenicolai. Great steak-based Saturday brunch: La Boucherie. as is the ciolan) alongside a live Bavarian oompah band every night it is the perfect place for big groups looking for a raucous night out. Mântuleasa 6. Saturday Brunch 11:30-15:30. (+4) NEW Be Nat A-4. (+4) 0722 30 89 60. You can also buy homemade jams.

23:00.inyourpocket. www. €€ PVGSW buildings. (+4) 0372 08 00 80. colourful surroundings. €€€ PEGSW La Collonade (Casa Vernescu) B-4.laveranda. ro. Str.inyourpocket. Sat. tel. tel. Something of a sensation this place. (+4) 0372 01 03 00. Bright and airy place that gloriously lets the light in through its huge windows. QOpen 06:00 .11:00.24:00. while the seafood risotto was as good as any we’ve eaten in Romania. www. MPiata Romana. QOpen 11:00 . QOpen a terrific osso bucco and a divine cheese cake are our fave dishes from the menu. free for children under 12. Chez Marie serves perhaps the widest variety of dishes you are likely to find in a Bucharest restaurant. 177 lei/pers. MPiata Teatro B-4. North and South America). smart place at the Capital Plaza. tel. J. www. Q Open 12:00 . a match for any other in the city. with a nice terrace when the weather allows. www. who bought it from the state in 1886. €€€ PLEXSW Victoriei. T eatro is so-called because the Novotel stands on the former site of Bucharest’s National Theatre. 190 lei/pers. (+4) 0746 22 24 44. Sun. Sunday Brunch 12:30 . Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice. and in our experience they get everything right. €€€ PVBSW Gargantua C-5. and had it extensively remodelled over a two-year period from 1887-9. QOpen 06:00 .omnivores. MUniversitate. Very good value. Str. €€€ PLEGSW La Brasserie A-1. The fine dining stakes in Bucharest got notched up even further with the appearance of the Grand Continental’s showcase dining (+4) 0743 17 20 03. Drumul Potcoavei 120.the gazpacho is as good as any in the city. MStefan cel QOpen 09:00 . Sit upstairs for the best views of the street below. www. €€€€ PLESW City Centre). this is a culinary journey around the world. Go there. tel. Calea Victoriei 214. www. Calea Victoriei 133. 08:00 .16:30. tel. (+4) 0733 24 20 67. the seafood stew and simple pleasure of new Zealand lamb chops. Not one great cuisine has been left Q Open 06:00 .gosofa. (+4) 021 202 16 34/(+4) 021 318 30 00. The Pullman’s bright and airy brasserie is open for breakfast and lunch. B-dul Barbu Vacarescu 241A.restaurant1880. (+4) 031 107 20 33. tel.00. The menu is available buffet-style or a-la-carte. Closed Sat. Q Open 06:30 . Good. and worth every penny. (+4) 0726 55 Dacia Felix B-4. Sensational contemporary restaurant which caters during the day to the movers and shakers in the nearby office Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu). and makes a great choice for families or groups on the run.24:00. The Radisson Blu opens its the cracking breakfast (possibly the best in the city) to all comers: simply turn up before 10:30. The interiors are amongst the most striking in Bucharest.01:00. tel. Find it on the corner of Stradas Calderon and Verona. QOpen 07:00 . including the ambassador himself. Sun 07:00 . (+4) 021 311 90 00. tel. You can take away if there is no space.chezmarie. while we have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharest’s very best. and the food more than matches the surroundings. There are just a few dishes to choose from each day: ask the staff what’s good. lunch or dinner. Oh yes. B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza).com December 2013 . Prices are more than fair given the location. B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54. (+4) 021 224 00 34. One of two new restaurants at the recently renovated and reopened Casa Vernescu. Calderon 69. Spain. the food more than lives up to the surroundings. Str. Closed Mon. Closed Sat. QOpen 12:00 . Redesigned and reinvented. €€€€ PLVSW Sofa Restaurant & Bistro Cafe C-2. (+4) 0756 10 05 00.11:00. QOpen 08:30 . www. so welcome are kids that they have play areas and people to look after them. Fine food. from the duck with foie gras to the saffron risotto with tempura prawns is fantastic. QOpen 12:00 . catering to lunching ladies and business types as well as a trendy crowd in the evenings. Everything on the menu. Well worth a trip. children between six and 12 years half price. La Brasserie is now less about fine dining (pop over to The Vineyard for that) and more about good quality.novotel.pullmanhotels.00 . Great salads.radissonblu.23:00. QOpen 12:00 . www. a good range of homemade pasta (and we mean homemade: it is put together on the premises). www.24:00. tel.restaurantgargantua. accompanied by a long list of the world’s finest wines (from Romania. €€€ PBSW Phill Str. simple food for all the family. the hotel’s main restaurant is open to all for breakfast. Sunday Brunch 12:30 . Italy. an outstanding chicken and artichoke salad.phill. 12-14:30. There is way too much to mention more than a couple of the great dishes we tried: the squid ink risotto. Calea Victoriei 37B (Novotel Bucharest Paris Bucharest Brasserie A-1. €€€ PLGW Concerto Restaurant C-5. Ankara 7. P-ta Montreal 10 (Pull- man Bucharest). while in the evening it becomes the eatery of choice for Bucharest’s foodie set. (+4) 021 212 56 www.24:00. pay your money and fill up for the RESTAURANTS for the daily specials. Built in 1820 it carries the name of a politician. €€ PLSW 47 Chez Marie As for the food.10:30. Open early for breakfast (they do a decent English fry and delicious pain chocolat) it’s busy throughout the day. inventive food (the menu changes regularly) served in bright. France. including a luscious fried brie with onion 10:00 19:00.24:00 (Restaurant). tel. Popular with the crowd from the UK embassy. €€€€ PTULGW Omnivore’s Dilemma B-4. The wine list remains a work of art and the atmosphere is now cosier than ever. and the staff are knowledgeable about both food and wine and will talk you through everything on the menu. Sun. It was at this time that the majority of the stunning interior frescoes were added. Tue-Thu 06:00 . €€ PVGSW RESTAURANTS Doncafe Brasserie B-3.L. Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand 56 93. tel. Sat. children under six free.24:00 (Bistro Cafe).10:00. MUniversitate. (+4) 021 308 85 30.if they have it .ro. and offers a huge buffet packed with more than you could possibly eat in one setting. One of the best hotel-based restaurants in the city is this bright. one of Bucharest’s most historic buildings.10:00. Gheorghe Vernescu. www. hand over a pittance and try and bag a seat at one of the tables (there are only three or four). while . There’s a cheaper but no less tasty bistro menu too.23. We adored the celery soup with scallops. Both the steak with gorgonzola and the beef stroganoff are top efforts. It’s avant garde to the point of being futuristic. €€€ PLSW Hotel Continental). €€€ PLGW Restaurant 1880 C-4. Fortunately. Dionisie Lupu 48. tel. Brilliant! Tiny place serving the best cooked lunch in central Bucharest. This is the place to come for highly creative nouvelle cuisine. tel. Sun 06:00 bucharest.January 2014 . and yet unlike so many upmarket restaurants this one positively welcomes families with children. setting and quality of food.22:00. South Africa. a couple of duck dishes and good steaks. The setting is to die for.

tel. All of the other fine Italian dishes are equally memorable. as well as choice cuts of top imported salamis and trattoria-roma. the seafood is imported daily and the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb. Good range of wines at all prices. but the same (+4) 021 303 37 Go there. Sat 12:00 . all available by the glass. The huge plates of steaming mussels are top value. (+4) 021. the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked out well without ever overdoing it. You can say what you like about this legendary. Add in decent house wine at giveaway prices. €€€€ PTGSW Roberto’s C-5. Cucina at the JW Marriott is a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably the best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the city. Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Trattoria Roma D-4.22:00. Open daily 08:00 . Commendable. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Modigliani Pasta/Carne C-5. (+4) 0730 64 48 06. Fri. (+4) 021 233 06 35.osteriagioia. (+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00. tel. (+4) 0722 13 42 99.01:00. An Italian the likes of which many of the other so-called Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream of becoming. www. porcini December 2013 . The real draw is the enclosed terrace which means you can eat al fresco even when it’s raining outside. The food is It’s not cheap. Amazingly good restaurant. Putul lui Zamfir 40. there is a new menu and the Italian stakes continue to get ratcheted up another notch. Mendeleev 1. tel.if not outstanding . The drinks menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds) or try any Cucina B-6. All the pasta here is made fresh. www. (+4) 0732 52 81 40.23:00.24:00. As with the original Il Calcio. QOpen 10:00 . A wonderful place to eat. truly brilliant. simple.10:00. a work of great detail where everything is lovingly prepared by exec chef Ashlie Dias . €€€ PLSW Nonna Mia C-3.nonnamia. Str. www. Well worth making the journey uptown for both the food and the atmosphere. €€€ PLSW Hilton). Very good Italian food. The food is classical. Sos. Closed Sun. Sun 18:00 .that’s you. Ristorante Il Calcio A-3. For this is a ristorante.cucinarestaurant.caffe-citta. Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the emphasis here is on good. Closed Sat. tel. Staff are good and the wine list a B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza).24:00.such as the saffron risotto . €€€ PLBW www. Looks the part.00. (+4) 021 311 37 50. MUniversitate. Delea Veche 36. What we have here is the best use of perhaps the best terrace space in the city.January 2014 . tel. contact@laveranda.trattoriailcalcio. QOpen 12:00 . the city’s wealthiest people come here to eat. Oh. Everything is done properly. €€€€ PEW Uptown Bar & Grill B-3. (+4) 021 231 40 77.16:00. high-class place (and most people in Bucharest have some kind of opinion). QOpen 12:30 .that will have you telling all your friends to come here. is always on hand with recommendations. www. urban food. Also at (C-4) Str. Str. (+4) 0735 33 30 21. tel. Str. www. Boasting an open kitchen.Italian food at fantastic prices makes this a good default choice for dinner. Lazy Sunday Afternoon from 12:00-17:00. We ate the excellent troffiette with smoked pancetta. QOpen 12:00 . QOpen 12:00 . tel. truffles and pecorino. but prices reflect the high quality. let’s face it. which was followed by slow-cooked veal shanks in wine and aromatic herbs. Roberto’s is also the home of the Hilton’s now legendary and not-to-be-missed Lazy Sunday Afternoon. Str. One of very few genuinely brilliant Italian eateries in Bucharest.trattoriailcalcio. www. €€€ PSW Trattoria Il Calcio C-5. Sat 12:00 . (I-4) Str. bucharest@radissonblu. (+4) 021 210 81 57/(+4) 0722 32 37 34. not least the bean soup that is a meal in itself. quickly becoming something of a magnet for great places to eat. As opposed to T rattoria Il Calcio? Yes. Mihai Eminescu 114-116. office@uptown.restaurantcapricciosa. tel. and the seafood-packed signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. feels the part and . €€€€ PLESW Bucharest Grand Hotel). Try the risotto with saffron. www. Make sure you reserve well in advance or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace. which share a menu with an excellent wine list. Excellent salads.when the food arrives . Soseaua Nordului 7-9.23:30. Well worth a look. QOpen 12:00 . and did we mention the chocolate cake? QOpen 09. (+4) 0731 14 81 87/(+4) 021 231 23 86. which demonstrates that top restaurants don’t have to be fitze. (+4) 0729 57 48 02. and there’s fresh lobster (fresh as in they pick it live out of a fish tank). Str. a notch up from trattoria. Mon 12:00 . tel. Batistei 9 (Inter- The Vinyard A-1. MPiata Italian Caffe Citta B-4.00. and note that the lunchtime set menu is in fact very competitively priced. Chile 10.24:00.participation. (+4) 021 403 19 02. Fri. Roberto’s also now has a new chef: Marco Magri. Q Open 12:30 . Boasting top chef Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitchen. Mendeleev 14. Benjamin Franklin 1-3. from pasta made on the premises to the correct oils for the different dishes. What’s more the staff really know their stuff and Bogdan.23:00. The feather in the Crowne Plaza’s cap.48 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 49 Grano C-3.01:00. €€ PLSW QOpen 11:00 23:30. narrow. especially if the weather is good and you can sit outside away from the television screens. €€€€ PLGBW Capricciosa B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2.inyourpocket.QOpen 18:00 . Str. Also at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 52. you can also buy many of the special ingredients they use in their little shop. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the city. It might nominally be an Italian but what people come to this place for is the seafood. three distinct dining areas and a private dining room. the restaurant's smart 155 lei/pers. Q Open 06:30 .ro. www. €€€€ PLBSW number of great wines. with the menu boasting the best dishes from a number of Italian regions. Bright and breezy. Stick to the pizzas. Even the place itself is wonderful: long.01:00. The wine list is a gem: a selection of the very best the world has to offer. They even do truffles and. tel. cucina@marriott. tel (+4) 0724 70 66 65. €€€ PESW Victoriei.23:00. The food is ristorante Italian with a twist (the duck breast with citrus fruits is our pick of the current menu) and outstandingly good.23:00. QOpen 18:00 . Brilliant.inyourpocket.00 .who has been here for years . Str. They get a lot right here. but to us it remains a very nice place to spend the evening. crowneplaza.23:00. €€€€ PESW Continental). www. tel. (+4) 0728 60 22 83. olio is recommended) and you have a winner. tel. Expect a more refined menu and surroundings.24:00. salads. this is now the hotel’s flagship restaurant. the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to and we rarely give praise that high. tel (+4) 0728 63 99 will know that it tastes the part too. and a number of the dishes require waiter or audience . all to the benefit of us diners. Nordului 7-9.22. QOpen 12:00 .com Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. In a nutshell. Prices not cheap but value for money very high. €€€€ PSW This first Il Calcio restaurant is in a lovely house on Strada Clucerului. friendly service and great value (if pricier) food you’ve come to expect from the Il Calcio boys. Uptown indeed. www. (C-3) Calea Floreasca 118-120. €€€€ PLESW Osteria Gioia A-3. and the service is a cut above the Bucharest A fabulous place. Sun 10. tel. good pasta (a classic aglio. (+4) 0726 01 03 83. Fri. and note that all of the pasta is homemade on the premises No fewer than 26 good Italian reds grace the wine menu. Str.30 .uptown. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made ice cream. caffecitta. Note that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Trattoria Don Vito Ristorante C-4. service can be a bit hit and miss but the good . Q Open 12:00 . from treats such as rabbit in a glorious wine sauce to fresh pasta made right here on the premises. you don’t see those every day on a menu in Bucharest. Based around Mediterranean cuisine you can always expect to find something exotic and a bit different on the daring menu.QOpen 12:00 diner . www. 12:00 .ro. An indulgent treat. (+4) 021 224 00 34. Str. (+4) 021 232 47 15.22. Sun 10:00 .23:00. There is pizza too. A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. MPiata Romana.grano. it’s worth every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants in the land. 313 00 21. tel.22:00. Rabat 2.and his highly experienced team. Serving simple yet delicious food . Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu). B-dul Ion Mihalache 16. 18:00 23:00. a mix of Italian-esque and modern European dishes. Sat 12:00 . bucharest. Clucerului 7. Casa di David with enough fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food lovers. have a little patience and you will love the place. with a great bar it is a foodie’s heaven.

24:00 and at Sos. Banul Antonache 40-44.22:30.50 RESTAURANTS Lebanese (+4) 0740 00 78 78. QOpen 12:00 . €€€ PVESW Japanese Benihana B-3. from a full English to nasi goreng.restaurantoliviers. it is a tremendous mix of the new. (+4) 0733 10 91 Joseph by Joseph Hadad bucharest.cheztoni. Facing Bucharest’s Opera House (albeit across a large. B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu 3. Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu). tel. The super nachos are worth trying too: filled with ground beef the portion is big enough to serve as a main course. This is Bucharest’s village pub. and are very tasty indeed. Top wine list and prices are certainly reasonable. Traian 234. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe. http://www. and staff are friendly and helpful.02:00. while the tuna steak was equally impressive (and at 49 lei not as expensive as other places in town). There is also a bites menu of substantial finger food for executive snacking. there’s home delivery too.and more besides . Ioan Can- tacuzino www. sizzlingly hot fajitas. €€€€ PTULSW Sushi Ko B-1. Open 12:00 . A staple on the Bucharest dining scene for some years now.sushiko. Iancu Capitanu 30. just like King Arthur . Also at (C-6) Str.but the villa in which it is served is also 37 / (+4) 0372 15 07 00. Sushi and teppanyaki . tel. (+4) 0749 78 83 Oliviers A-3. the set menus are great value. www. from pork knuckles to home-made sausages and juicy steaks. (+4) 0758 08 84 00. www. Open 12:00 . Dr. Great value. Dr. Str. Three wonderful restaurants. but there is more than that to enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef carpaccio. (+4) 021 Vinoteca Opera A-6. this is as good as modern. QOpen 12:00 . Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy. Always packed so reserve a table.the menu is mainly Mediterranean but there is more than a hint of France too . contemporary dining gets in this city and a visit here is worth every penny (speaking of which. tel. Mediterranean and local dishes. wider range of beers. In place of Le Bistro what we have here is a dining room where the focus is on Eastern Mediterranean Str. the freshest seasonal ingredients and supremely healthy eating. Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand Plaza). tel. The seafood and fish dishes are the best of what’s on the which is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at lunchtime.including a round one. where the city comes to meet and have a terrific breakfast. there is no more romantic place to eat in the city. Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef. tel. (+4) 0744 34 44 44 €€€€ PLVSW 21. MEroilor. Clucerului 19. Nordului 1. www.23:30. Lebanese food that is both filling (with plenty for vegetarians to choose from) and well made. no fewer than eight types of taco and best of all . €€ PVESW El Torito C-4. and it’s very difficult not to have a good time here. Q Open 08:00-20:00.24:00. taking time out to explain the finer points of Japanese dining to beginners. (+4) 0736 88 86 88.01:00. Good selection of non-seafood meals. (+4) 0758 03 80 05. Modern. (+4) 021 303 37 77.hojoplaza.tortugarestaurant. Can a hotel restaurant be this good? Yes. www. Northern Bucharest tel. and your kids will too. We attended a Christening at this place recently. €€€ PLG Sharkia B-4. Q Open 12:00 . tel. and were blown away by the quality of the food: really outstanding. Q Open 12:00 . A good range of food on offer. €€€ PLVBSW RESTAURANTS Chez Toni C-2. Str.and tuck into massive portions of all your medieval favourites. QOpen 11:00 . Str. tel. Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the eponymous wind and brings with it some top class dining at the hotel’s latest restaurant. The ambitious owners of the Residence hotel are very keen to promote their excellent restaurant. huge plates of mixed meze (perfect for big groups to share) and no fewer than four lamb dishes. ro. tel. the daring and the traditional. Home Delivery: Lipscani tel. the best new Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for some time. spicy little sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other fresh fish). tel. tel. Great. (+4) 021 Restaurant Tortuga D-5. QOpen 09:00 23:00. tel. from good meats to fish and sea food. (+4) 0749 97 95 (+4) 021 311 90 €€€ PLVESW Mexican/Tex Mex 252 66 88. The place itself is spacious and very contemporary. In fact. tel.24:00. and the wine list is first class.15:00. Al. www. QOpen 12:00 . www. We like it. All your Middle Eastern favourites are here. We love it. while the legendary Hilton burger remains one of the best in the city. The vibe is casual. All three locations are well worth a visit (one is in the Old Town) and if you can’t get there in person. A small but perfectly formed dining room is the setting for a tantalising menu of Oriental. QOpen 12:00 . There is live music most nights from a top taraf band. tel.24:30. The gourmet menu (for two) is outstanding. busy square) this is a very good seafood and Italian restaurant serving as wide a range of fishy treats as you will find in Bucharest. You can feast on a great range of dishes from across the Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City. Worth the tel. and perfect for big groups. QOpen 12:00 . topped with lashings of tangy cheese. Constantinescu 33. Clucerului 9. Stavropoleos 8. We love it. Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap (good Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the set-menu at lunchtime is excellent value. €€€ PLBSW 222 57 55. this is a great time to come and try the vast array of terrific Japanese specialities on offer at Benihana.piccolomondo. The mussels are good value at 32 lei for a half kilo portion. wines and cocktails then ever. and a December 2013 . www. benihana@hojoplaza.January 2014 . As for the rooftop terrace. and the chances are you will want to come more than once.QOpen 12:00 . (+4) 021 201 50 30. there are some fine wines and it’s all done with that magical Radisson swish. and the extensive menu covers every area of Japanese cuisine. This is an outstanding place in every way: not only is the food sensational . For something a bit different in a location well away from the bustle of the city centre it is worth trying the fare on offer here at Studio 80. €€€ PLW 0733 07 74 82. ro/en/benihana.23:00.23:00. A medieval extravanganza of a restaurant where you can sit at wooden tables . Kebabs are one of the chef’s strong The new breakfast menu offers something for everyone. Glodeni 3. The food is fantastic. offering something for all pockets.vinotecaopera. from sushi to sashimi. Str. Prof. (+4) 0722 59 98 05/(+4) 0372 15 06 00. tel.24:00. ground floor). Str. www. (+4) Modern European Cafe Athenee C-5. QOpen 12:00 . Str. MPiata Romana. Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.restaurantyoshi. QOpen 12:00 . tel. big salads. Lister 1. (+4) 0753 99 93 33. from Antaki. In the right weather of lunch or early dinner. (+4) 021 311 63 60/(+4) 0725 73 93 98.00:00. com. away-from-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. and lots more besides. (+4) 0749 99 66 22. €€€€ PLBSW something of a Bucharest treasure. Str. www. and all done with a genuine Mediterranean twist. Sos. QOpen 10:30 . Groups especially will love it. Expert chefs and staff will explain Japanese cuisine to newcomers. MAviatorilor. Mediterranean restaurant with a heavy accent on seafood. contemporary yet understated design adds to the joy of dining €€€ PLSW 46/(+4) 031 437 97 29. (+4) 0747 87 44 56. The red tuna steak with capers is a treat. beware: all the portions here are supersized. the set two-course lunch is a bargain). www. (+4) 021 242 02 04/ 51 Piccolo Mondo A-3. 19:00 . josephrestaurant. €€€ PESW Yoshi Str. www. including some of the best lamb chops we’ve eaten in Bucharest. In brief.23:00. Looking for gems such as a homemade ravioli with fillet of sea bass? Then get yourself here. €€€€ PLSW Studio 80 Aleea Privighetorilor 80. and with good reason. Expect the biggest and best burrittos in the city.cramatemplierilor. €€€€ PVSW Mediterranean Cerisiers A-2. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton) QOpen 12:00 .24:00. With cracking new menus specially put together for the season.inyourpocket. €€€ PLVSW Medieval Crama Templierilor B-5.that splendid Mexican staple so often forgotten or passed over as being dull: cream of corn and the perfect setting for a meal of this quality.eltorito.restaurantcerisiers. Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy.inyourpocket.24:00.

23:00. gorgeous leafy terrace in the right QOpen 12:00 . It’s genuinely amazing this place. There is much else besides. what is perhaps Bucharest’s best restaurant recently got better. pumpkin pie and even apple pie. who has been in charge of the kitchen here since Prime opened more than four years ago. it is seriously good.01:00. (+4) 021 232 87 96. smoked fish and potato salad. B-dul Dacia 19. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (+4) 031 410 80 21. we can also recommend the duet of foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple.lacocosatu. and then there is the Sunday Brunch: currently the best in the city. and as the name suggests (placinte means pies) there is a big range of pie on offer: potatoe pie. QOpen 12:00 . We put out an appeal on our Facebook fan page for the best mici in the city. lunch (usually an excellent-value buffet) and dinner.11:30. don’t be afraid to ask. tel. www. NEW Bistro La Taifas B-4. The food is superb.24:00. Open for breakfast. tel. Try the papanasi (donuts) with thick cream here: almost a meal in itself and perfect for fuelling up before exploring Old Town. Kiseleff 4. www. Sat 06:30 .ro. whose interior design is amongst the most avant garde in the city.QOpen 10:00 .stadio. Duck breast with sweet cabbage. The food is worthy the location and design: good and often quite inventive: the cream of pea soup with crispy bacon was a treat. (+4) 0746 78 35 Sos. if this place doesn’t occupy the very best people-watching spot in the whole of the city. 12:00 . The smell of the wooden fixtures and fittings could convince you that you’re in the bucharest. €€€ PLGSW Good Old Times (Golden Tulip Times Hotel) E-6.00 . and there are good value lunch menus. €€ PLVESW Burebista Vanatoresc C-5.52 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 53 (Radisson Blu). MUniversitate.January 2014 .24:00. €€ PESW Casa Gorjana B-5. usually in time with the seasons. baked carp with garlic and mamaliga are just a few of the great dishes you will find on the menu.which we can tell you.inyourpocket. Calea Victoriei 63-81 Charmingly decorated in a brilliant mix of traditional and hip you will love it the moment you walk in. The food is good. MPiata Romana. (+4) 021 211 89 29. MUniversitate.00. www. (+4) 021 212 77 88. tel. Q Open 12:30-15. Oh. The place to come in Bucharest for big portions of superb Romanian food cooked with a bit more style than in the average Romanian restaurant.10:30. tel. €€ PVEBSW Bistro Jaristea B-4. 18. €€ PLESW La Cocosatu Str. The response was immediate and overwhelming: Cocosatu’ uber December 2013 . Q Open 08:00 . visinata by the glass and you have a terrific new place to eat and spend most of the evening. Str. The food is great. Neagoe Voda 52 A. Gheorghe Manu 16. splendid waiters in smart dress. A rather delightful contemporary Italian-inspired restaurant. tel. B-dul Dacia The desserts are not to be overlooked either. Sun 06:30 . €€€ PTLEBW dul Decebal 19.00.24:00. We loved the old kitchen appliances and Warhol-esque soup cans on the walls. QOpen 10. This classy place pulls in the cream of Bucharest society. Prices are more than reasonable. tel. €€ PLESW 17. tel. the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque. La T aifas means ‘having a chat’ and that’s exactly what you and your friends will feel like doing at this tres jolie venue.inyourpocket. 12:00 .16:00. (+4) 021 Stadio C-5. and hosts more regular musical soirees. (+4) 021 315 64 29.bistrojaristea. Str.24:00. Sarmale la ceaun and zacusca de fasole were two of the dishes we ate and happily and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often. (+4) 021 311 90 00/(+4) 021 601 34 02. and we should mention that it all gets served in superb ethnic pottery. Str. especially if you want to sit on the terrace in good weather. Featuring a very good range of Romanian and international and after careful consideration she admitted that they were even better than her own: now that’s high praise indeed. www.23:00. and lovely fresh sarmale) and all have a personal touch to their taste. MPiata Muncii. Ion Campineanu 11. but this latest location is more spacious. not metres away from the city centre.24:00. 175 lei/pers.casagorjana. Indeed. tel. €€€ PLEBSW Casa Doina B-3. 12:00 . if there is almost one thing you can be sure with when it comes to standard Romanian restaurants. www. QOpen 12:00 . Episcopiei was better.laceaunucrapat. B- versitate. Good local wine list. it is that you will never have to pay much money. Boasts a large. is amazing). breezy setting. the food tastes super (good smoked meats.01:00. Popular Molodovan chain of eateries (there are more than 10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes to the centre of Bucharest.23:00.00-23. MUniversitate. €€ PVNBSW Prime Steaks & Seafood B-4. www. loud folk band add to the party atmosphere. Henri Coanda 5. Moldovan La Placinte La Ceaunu’ Crapat C-4. B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental). (+4) 021 310 20 20. A very good restaurant indeed.23. We brought our mother-in-law here recently to try out the sarmale​ . Portions are good. Sunday Brunch 12:00 . Closed Sun. (+4) 021 222 67 Bulevardul Magheru. the menu here changes regularly. such as the smoked sausage and white beans. children between six and 12 half price. good service. Batistei 14. as we have eaten it. Boasting a menu put together by Executive Chef Bernd Kirsch. tel. Str. then we don’t know where does. including the entirely recommended pelmeni. and booking is still essential.casadoina.bistrotaifas. cheese pie. Sat 18:00-23:00. a contemporary eatery for friends. Casa Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. www.00.11:00. Alma mater of Romanian restaurants. QOpen 12:00 . an integral part of the city’s rich tapestry. QOpen 10:00 .laplacinte. Domnita Anastasia 13. tel. We remain convinced that the original venue behind the Hilton on Str. Sun 12:00 . €€ PSW Romanian 650 50 00. (And just about everything else). and we were also rather delighted to discover beef in Yorkshire pudding on the menu. The live. Note the last kitchen order is at 22:30. Q Open 06:30 . Now serving the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford Prime . www. €€€€ PLG (+4) 021 312 24 92. (+4) 021 316 65 16. www.restauranttimes.restaurantvanatoresc. Oh. and the various different dining areas. Str. From the people who have long brought you some of the city’s finest Romanian food comes this there is little gimmick here (beyond the rather wooden entrance) except good food at great prices. and worth every last penny. tel. not least of which is the huge central atrium. children under six free. www. The young chef is not afraid to try something new and different and note that if you fancy something which is not on the menu. MUni- Corso Brasserie & Terrace C-5. One of the stock Romanian restaurants that has been packing in visitors for Add in a bright. served by charming. In a top location on Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.

QOpen 11:00 . prawns. www. Str. tel. Ernest Brosteanu 2. this is up with the best of them. QOpen 12:00 . Sat. 12:30 . www. Get in there.23:30. Doing for Bucharest’s fish supper scene what Osho did for meat. B-dul Primaverii 19-21.January 2014 . www.taverna-lazavat. €€ PLSW bucharest. tel. and the chef will happily cook to order. QOpen 12:00 . Popa Nan Urbanesc D-5. Str. Nordului 7-9. though there are local Romanian and international favourites too. Good lunchtime deals and friendly. Top little place with more atmosphere in its small toe than most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. We should add that there are some fine meat choices for those who are not fish fans.00:00. €€€€ PVSW 16.inyourpocket.23:00. we think it is about time we give it another chance. tel. Maria Rosetti 40. €€€ PLEXSW 313 77 16.11:30. 12:00 . We suggest you do the same.rossetya. www. this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get. which was richly packed with Gen. (+4) 0721 33 55 55. Str. Maybe we have been harsh in the past with our reviews of Nicoresti. As made with loads of mutton and a few spices for extra kick. and the beef dishes here are especially good. Sun 06:00 . www. €€ PSW La Veranda December 2013 .nadamas. Well prepared. tel. this restaurant/cafe/kind-of-shop is a nice mix of the old and the new. fresh seafood cooked and prepared simply. (+4) 021 313 20 91. €€€ PLSW Fishbone Lunch & Pub C-4. Great ciorbas.QOpen 11:00 . (+4) 021 Nicoresti C-5. (+4) 021 211 Spanish Restaurant Nada Mas C-5. Calea Victoriei 133. Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. Cherhana in Romanian means ‘fishery’. fresh tuna and much more. (+4) 021 252 29 56.has improved no end of late. and all at peanuts prices. and given that the service .QOpen 12:00 . www. (+4) 021 315 83 75. fresh fish in bright. MPiata Romana.24:00. You really will have go a long way to find better value Romanian food than this. the new is the rather funky design of the interior. QOpen 11:00 . An exemplary wine list (for all budgets) makes it a super place for vineyard fans: all of Romania’s top wineries are represented. from simple yet brilliantly executed local fish dishes (hamsii. Nicolae Golescu 16. tel. €€ PSW beef sauteed in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. This is that rarity in Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9. so charge it to expenses if you bucharest. €€€€ PLESW Vatra Restaurant B-5.restaurantnicoresti. fishbonegrill. Desserts as good as everything else. A bit of a trek from the city centre (it is just around the corner from the now closed Baneasa Airport) the mici here are indeed the best we have tasted: big. Another fish restaurant more than worth the name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments in Bucharest. tel. Superior Romanian food at a superior Romanian venue: the magnificent Casa Lens-Vernescu. Also worth trying is the iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs something of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food. www. com. For starters. B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza). (+4) 021 335 33 38. well-priced restaurant close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park. (+4) 021 224 00 34. tel.casavernescu. A brilliant. We ate the very good oxtail .always our biggest problem with the place . QOpen 12:00 . carp and pike) to more exotic fish shipped in direct from the Mediterranean and beyond: sea bass. MPiata Romana/Universitate. www. Sos. take either the gazpacho (as good as it should be) or the mix of Spanish hams and sausages before moving on to the decent choice of seafood or meat main courses. €€€€ PLESW 24 80. for the food has always been very good. A bright.inyourpocket.23:30. € PLSW tel. so you will already know what to expect here: fine fish and www. 18:00 .as well as a portion of paella.24:00. QOpen 10:00 .which we have not seen on a menu for years . Sun 10:30 QOpen 11:00 02:00. Certainly one of our fave places to open this year. with real class and with great care for the natural flavour of the fish. tel. Prices reflect the high quality of the raw material. like potato and leek) while the a la carte menu is a more extravagant affair. (+4) 031 805 91 99. (+4) 0721 98 28 48. (+4) 733 24 20 67. www. for this is a faultless establishment we have grown rather fond of. after all. tangy. (+4) 021 311 88 €€ VSW Taverna Pescareasca La Zavat E-5. The set-lunch deal is great value at 25 lei (it changes every day and often features some rather sophisticated dishes. 18:00 . service and choice of high quality food will convince you of that. Str. Superb service and an outstanding wine list too. one of the most celebrated Romanian restaurants in the city. MUni- Rossetya C-5. www. The ultimate Bucharest mici experience. Str.16:00. The old is the house the place is set in. Q Open 06:00 . In a city now boasting more than a few seriously good interiors. terrific mici and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with.urbanesc. The food is very good too. QOpen 12:00 . tel. Sun 12:00 . €€€ PSW Locanta Jaristea B-6. Like the location the food is excellent and perhaps not quite as expensive as you might think given that you are eating in a historical monument. tel.24:00. www. This one is housed inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden outside: a joy in any weather. The surroundings. The interior is rather special: bright and contemporary. QOpen 10:00 . QOpen 10:30 . We have been eating here for years and we can’t recommend the place highly enough. with more than a hint of local flavour. Cracking menu of primarily fish and seafood. It serves deceptively simple yet exquisite fish and sea food as fresh as the day it was caught.23:00.22:00.24:00. and always includes an out-of-theordinary soup. expect big portions of tasty local dishes. It is. Ion Brezoianu 19. This is one of very few places in Romania where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to start preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of the best vintage wines Romania has ever produced. As fashionable as you like and already attracting a crowd of urban trendsetters. Expect fine pieces of fresh fish and prime. happy staff ready to make your time here memorable. exquisitely decorated dining rooms. One of three superb restaurants at the Crowne Plaza.24:00. Salonul Romanesc (Casa Vernescu) B-4. modern surroundings with a great selection of side dishes and plenty of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Str.10:30. built in 1820 and considered one of the finest houses ever built in Bucharest.jaristea.54 RESTAURANTS Seafood Cherhanaua Ancora Stefan Luchian 17. spacious and thoroughly modern eatery behind the Ateneu.16:00. Try the sote de vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender Bucharest In Your Pocket versitate.ancora-cherhana. €€€ PESW RESTAURANTS 55 alles. €€€€ PLEW Osho Fish B-2. Sun 13:00 .osho-restaurant.22:00.laveranda. George Georgescu 50-52. Str.

tel. Closed Sun. Not as expensive as it probably should be. MIzvor/Eroilor. QOpen 12:00 . Well worth a visit. but there is plenty of seafood.22:30. upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in Floreasca/Dorobanti. The brunch from 11:00-16:00 on Saturdays is excellent value at 80 lei per person: kids under seven are free.23:30. €€€ PGBSW Thai 0722 68 74 54. Great desserts too. now it is developing into cuisine. but there is always a good choice for either lunch or dinner (soups. as well as some terrific desserts.vacamuuu. (+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4) Violeta’s Bistro D-6. of which the food will convince you immediately. (+4) 021 403 19 03. QOpen 12:00 . but there is much more besides. that does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys served with the poppadoms will convince you of that right from the off. Sometimes when writing a review.56 RESTAURANTS Slow Food Beautyfood C-5. There is little point telling you about the food as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. and everything is made with only fresh. Check the blackboard for what’s on the menu . QOpen 9:00 . such as a top burger (which comes in three sizes) and tangy lamb chops.22:30. Sun 09:00 02:00.a glass of wine. www.22:00. 18:30 . (+4) 0736 39 25 87. and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is top This is a great restaurant. and that is what we have here. QOpen 11:00 . The Tomahawk steak . office@satya.goldenfalcon. Last kitchen order 23:00. MPiata Romana. 195 lei/pers. Get there now. The concept is great: very good traditional and modern Romanian food (the cook is not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod towards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes regularly. Calea Floreasca 111. Still the greatest kebab house in the land. €€€€ PiTSW 57 The London Street Bistro C-3. there’s a great set lunch deal each day which includes .unlike many others in this town . Turkish Golden Falcon MAviatorilor. tel. (+4) 021 314 28 25. B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7. Sat 06:30 . www. Always has a good lunchtime deal on: two delicious courses usually priced around 20 lei. and now there is this rather super little bistro to go with it. At last. www. Str. €€ PVSW RESTAURANTS Vegetarian Casa Satya A-3. the staff wonderful and as a whole it is just so un-Bucharest that you will want to squeeze it and hug it. children between six and twelve half price. and they open early for breakfast: the American pancakes and eggs Benedict are a great option to start the day with. all prepared fresh. Str. children under six €€ Metuka Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even the most jaded of beefeaters will Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.23:00. QOpen 10:30 . 12:30 . www. Putul Lui Steak Houses 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel). Banu Antonache 40-44. Closed Mon. veal and pork chops. Everything on the menu is toxin free. Slow Food in every sense of the phrase: the food is seasonal. Sun 10:00 . tel. before coming round with the kebabs: pick which one you want then send it to be cooked in the open kitchen. You can expect a very American steakhouse Bucharest) they are more than reasonable. place for those of us who have been craving something Thai since Moods closed a while ago now.24:00. Closed Sun. Chances are you will spot plenty you like. found on the ground floor of a new apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest.madamepogany. Sat 10:00 22:00. This place is terrific. so no meat. and made from locally-sourced ingredients. this time on the site of the old Violeta’s. Sat 10:00 . We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised about the prices: given the location (this is Beverly Hills. Amazingly.kunnai. (+4) 0734 16 57 46.jwsteakhouse. QOpen 09:30 . www. QOpen 12:00 . €€€ PVGBSW be drooling. There is a great selection of new world wines.osho-restaurant. there’s a kid’s menu. Closed Sun. You can check the latest menu online (it is always up to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before setting off. Fine. tel.22:00.violetas. Str.23:30. Str. Sun 12:00 . and still packing in the punters who come back time and again. (+4) 0744 10 56 13. Copilului 6. QOpen 12:00 .ro. 18:30 . €€€ VBW (+4) 0722 52 56 they have it we can recommend the burger with the home fries. There are no menus here: instead the waitresses will parade a trolley-full of meze before you to pick from. but in our experience all of them are well worth trying. (+4) 0759 03 06 09. B-dul Primaverii 19-21. There is more than steak on the menu though. modern.22:00. The toilets by the way are amazing. tel. We usually always go for the lamb kebabs. €€€ PLSW Hristo Botev 18-20. €€€ PLSW Osho finger food and more substantial dishes). Calea 13 Septembrie Zamfir 15. €€€€ PVBSW Vacamuuu C-3. www. €€€€ PTLSW Kunnai Str. Love it. fresh.23:30. QOpen 09:00 . well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off in Bucharest. Expect a menu that changes weekly.22:00. Sat. right down to the Black Angus beef imported from the US. Jean Louis Calderon 34. (+4) 021 568 30 31. Currently the most talkedabout chophouse in the city. Str. as in the mix life and science. and take note that all the meat is Romanian. only the second such signature venue to open in Europe. (+4) 0731 35 11 35. seasonal ingredients and a whole host of inventive treats you will not find elsewhere (we were lucky enough to hit upon some Feteasca Neagra sausages).24:00. and then there’s the wine list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when you come here. The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharest’s best chophouses: the JW Steakhouse. Most of the meat can be bought to take home and cook yourself should you wish. (+4) 0736 93 35 31. while the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kid’s menu. Another brilliant little Slow Food venue pops up in Bucharest.January 2014 . Q Open 06:30 . Sunday Brunch 12:00 .11:00. Plus.00:30. B-dul Banu Manta 25.weighing in at nearly a kilo . QOpen 09:00 . €€€€ PLESW JW Steakhouse Bucharest B-6. The spacious. The menu changes every day. tel. Sat 10:30 .’ This is a butcher’s shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would scream for in the dark. organic ingredients. George Ionescu-Gion 9.11:00.24:00. including broiled lobster and Australian lamb chops. It also comes at a fair price: both to you and to the suppliers.satya. www. Ayuvedic principles have long been applied to alternative medicine. tel. tel. The food is the real deal. you can also feast on lamb. The place itself (now in a new location) is lovely. Urban Contemporary Restaurant Madame Pogany C-3. all you really want to write is ‘this place is brilliant.inyourpocket. www. Where do you start when reviewing a place as revolutionary as this? The concept is Ayurveda. the pick of the steaks.inyourpocket. www. We had the Pla Praew Waan​fish stir-fry followed by the prawn Phad Thai: both were sensational and well worth the money (it’s good value if not exactly cheap).com December 2013 . The London Street Atelier has been making delicious home-made food for those in the know for a while.22:00.

local cafe serving top coffee.23:00. Str. (+4) Cafe Times E-6. it becomes the perfect aperitivo spot when the sun goes down. tel. Sat. A contender for the title of best coffee shop in Bucharest.24:00. Closed Sun. 0758 90 05 82. PAESW Kafeterya Cafe B-5.02:00.kafeterya. QOpen 10:00 .January 2014 .ro. Q Open 07:30 .to Romania’s architectural association. tel. and now there is wine. Str. Sun 10:00 . a popular choice with guests and office workers from the World T rade Center. MPiata Romana. Sublime. Calea Grivitei 143 (Hello Hotels). that they should probably be paying rent. and given that it’s open from as well as some very good light meals: the salads are legendary. QOpen 08:00 . Fri.inside it is totally non-smoking.22:30.coftale.02:00.tonka. tel. The brilliant Carturesti bookshop has long served coffee with its books. One of the best cafes to open in Bucharest for years. Sit and try to read those unmanageable newspapers on a stick.22:30. tel.02:00. PSW Caffe & Latte B-5. a modern. QOpen 07:30 . A cafe. while for brunch it makes a brilliant (and bargain) alternative to the big. (+4) 0748 84 86 78.caffe-latte. expensive hotels. and all with added Wifi. Oh. QOpen 09:00 .22:00. (+4) 021 403 19 01. The breakfast is terrific. PLSW CAFÉS 59 Aristocats Bistro C-5. tel. PBSW La Galette A-1. The name means ‘Front room’. www. and many offer good bistro food alongside your coffee. www. The vegetable spring rolls for example: amazing. and the desserts and cakes more than tempting.cameradinfata. QOpen 10:00 .com. B-dul Decebal 19. PRESW Vienna Lounge B-6. (+4) 031 415 85 51. Many of the more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to make at home. tel. tel. There are tasty sandwiches comes the big news .pullmanhotels. tel. QOpen 11:00 . It is that kind of place: a friendly..subsolbar. cheap and good value as the hotel itself. PSW NEW Coftale D-5.01:00.58 cAfÉS Bucharest has one of the most vibrant cafe scenes in this part of Europe. Sat 09:00 . It’s well worth looking out for this place. a contemporary space with walls decorated with scenes from the revolution. PLESW Cafe Verona C-5. bar and bistro serving superb coffee. Biserica Amzei 19. tel. soups at lunchtime. We have been coming here for years and still love it. QOpen 09:00 . And if there is a better place to drink coffee this close to the centre of Bucharest than this place then we know not of it. wonderful muffins. (+4) 021 210 96 96. Sun 09:00 . home . cakes and panini. cocktails and . Free Wifi with your (excellent) coffee and a can-do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy. no matter how busy you are. of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant also form part.22:30.18:00. tea.24:00. Sun 09:00 . The cafe and bar which occupies part of the building is more than worthy of its location. The range of pastries is just about second to none in Bucharest. Str. Schitu Magureanu 8. MIzvor.lente. salads and desserts to die for (the waffles are probably the best in Bucharest). and the design of the place is not too shabby either: the coffee cups hanging down over the bar are a nice touch. Str. PSW here. The Marriott’s posh flagship café. Sun 11:30 . tel. PSW Readers Cafe B-4. PLESW Camera din Fata bucharest. Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. (+4) 0723 44 80 80. This place has indeed got soul. MPiata Muncii. MStefan cel Mare. Opens early for breakfast (we recommend the omelettes) and the setting opposite Cismigiu is special. a cut above the Bucharest average. Str. +(4) 021 315 60 98. Sat 08:00 . PLESW Subsol Bar Set in a gorgeous old Bucharest house it’s like a coffee shop and tea house and bistro and much more besides. Str. plus the sight of business types buzzing about to conferences. as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Str. Str. freshly made pasta for dinner: the menu changes all the time so just ask what’s good the day you go. Always packed. cocktails. The in-house cafe at the Hello Hotel is as smart. www. tel.22:00. There’s relaxing music. info@cafeverona. this is the kind of laid-back place that you end up spending the whole afternoon in. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. Fri. You will find Readers on the ground floor. Q Open 24hrs. (+4) 0726 22 25 67. while enjoying the occasional live piano music. Arcului 2. the salads big and the pasta light. and they have December 2013 .inyourpocket. the hot chocolate with marshmallows a legend in the making. and we can guarantee that one visit will not be enough. (+4) 0372 12 18 00. which can be taken away if you are in a hurry. drink great coffee or eat . Str. What’s more fun than leisurely watching others work when you don’t have to? QOpen 09:00 . Charming. Closed Sun. bright and well-lit space where you can read. We know people who come here so often. Serves good coffee.01:00. Huge big omelettes for The salads are big and tasty and there is a surprisingly good range of beef dishes. (+4) 0737 32 33 77.inyourpocket. This place is one of the great things about the Metropolis Centre. It’s packed with comfy sofas and armchairs. this gorgeous place serves some of the best light meals and finger food you will eat in Bucharest. Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world pops in for espresso on its way to work. www. tel. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15. Stefan Mihaileanu The coffee is reassuringly wonderful. For long lazy afternoons or laid-back evenings with friends it is great. Having said that.20:00. Classy cafe and patisserie at the Pullman. Much more than being merely a very good cafe. QOpen 08:00 . Str.24:00.24:00.cafetimes. Sat 10:00 .24:00. PTW Lente & Cafea D-5. Mendeleev 22.23:00. PESW Hotel). MPiata Romana. Inside the Tekaffe B-4. which is exactly as you’d expect: classy.04:00. cocktails. and being here is in many ways just like being somebody’s front room. Sun 10:00 . and plenty else besides. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5. MGara de Nord. (+4) 031 224 80 16. It’s also licensed so you can have a beer or cocktail. tel. MUniversitate.fittingly . Most double up as cocktail bars at night. then gets really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get shorter.far better than you would expect. www. QOpen 07:30 . Str. (+4) 021 311 15 12. QOpen 10:00 . Lovely. the sandwiches tasty and well-filled. Lipscani 9.22:00. and spend so much time Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. www. This place is all about great coffee from all over the world. while the coffees are great value for what is after all a five-star hotel. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97. P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest shell of an old house destroyed during the 1989 revolution a new building has risen.. tel. Schitu Magureanu 35. Live music most evenings (early evening) and well separated smoking and non-smoking sections. Sat. and need their coffee double quick. we could easily see ourselves spending the whole day here. pastries and the like. light meals. While best-loved as a summer venue (the large garden/courtyard is delightful) this charming place should not be overlooked during the colder months either.24:00. www. where you can enjoy coffee and cocktails in the company of a good young crowd. tel. There’s a good internet cafe in the basement. (+4) 0732 00 30 60. V Origo C-6. enjoyable and expensive. The food is excellent. QOpen 08:00 . Sat 11:30 . PLSW Tonka Soul Cafe B-4. a reservation is a good idea. There are also now plenty of tea shops and tea houses making that search for the perfect Bucharest cuppa a little less difficult than it used to QOpen 11:30 . www. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that. in a word. and cocktails too. readerscafe. Warm and quiet coffee house by day. although best of all we liked the gulas soup. Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel). (+4) 021 318 30 00/(+4) 021 202 16 33. Teodor Stefanescu 1. A more than decent meeting place. Sat 08:30 .

Besides decent drinks at decent prices there is a good bar food menu. Again. although there is currently a moratorium in place on farming sturgeon. Calea Dorobanti 155. and the crowd that meets here is equally relaxed. B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38. for decades. Another one of the many reasons why the InterContinental is once again one of the top places in Bucharest to spend time. ro. If you see ciolan afumat on a menu. (+4) 031 710 22 34. tomatoes and boiled eggs. with a pub on the ground floor and a cafe on the first.skybar. tel. QOpen 12:00 . Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton). the smoke will be limited to tangy Middle Eastern tobaccos taken through a narghilea. Sat 15:00 . tel. (+4) 0742 07 91 19. usually made with lashings of fresh cream. Hungarian and German influences.02:00. PNBW Pavilion Lounge B-6.04:00. Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW NEW Pillow Bar & Lounge C-4. This little corner of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue and spies (it has been around for nearly a century. Sat. With more nooks and crannies than your grandmother’s country house. no frills pub that eschews clutter and trendy crap and concentrates on the beer. the tradition of making sour soups is actually only on the fifth floor. MUniversitate. nor will you find a better place to bring a secret date for a little tete-a-tete.01:00. vă rog. www. Top stuff. Str. but the big draw here are the board games: tens of them. a favourite of Bucharest’s fashionistas. concierge@ casinobucharest. Caderea Bastiliei 36. ciorba de burta (made with tripe). this cafe and cocktail bar is quite frankly unique. QOpen 10:00 . not all of which carry the industrial-chic look of the main bar. as long as the hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous pint of Guinness). w w w. we believe) is well worth a visit. Now it’s merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings. Though Romania boasts a not insignificant coastline along the Black Sea. ficaţei de pui (chicken livers). tel.platinumcasino. There are various seating areas.05:00. such as the celebrated sarmale (cabbage or vine leaves stuffed with mince and rice). Recently given a thorough makeover. hence the name. contact@ metropoliscasinobucharest.haunt. Sun 15:00 . such as carnaţi de pleşcoi (mutton sausages). George Enescu 3. Fri. Str.when it hosts great theme parties Q Open 24 hrs. honeycoloured liquid made of wheat and cornflour). chicken is more popular in clear soups. tel. Gambrinus. Fri 13:00 . tel. tel. Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the lobby of the Inter. or sometimes cottage cheese.despite being on the roof . At more formal meals a number of cold appetizers – known as gustare reci – will usually be served before the ciorba. platinum@platinumcasino. QOpen 08:00 01:00. An example of top Romanian fare is the classic sour soup. The JW Marriott’s newest addition is a suitably stylish and contemporary venue boasting one of the most elegant bars in the city. Pillow is the kind of place we like to see opening up. Fri 12:00 . Brezoianu 4. Pancakes (clatite) served with chocolate or jam and covered in sugar are a popular dessert. a note about some strange culinary habits which you may come across in the country‘s restaurants. Str. tel. usually mixed with garlic. olives.QOpen 07:00 . Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radis- Energiea B-6. a simple ‘fara smântana. tel. PLKW Platinum Casino B-4. The salads are outstanding.queen-casino.casinobucharest. Best of all though we Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Romania also produces decent caviar. MPiata Romana. Silva and Ciuc. salami. the cocktails and treating its customers well. Piata Amzei 1. (+4) 0744 31 51 Q Open 11:00 . ciorba de vacuta (made with beef). get here now. onion and served as a delicious salad. (+4) 0720 22 74 66. NS English Bar C-5. marriott@grandcasinoromania. The pub is Str. La 80 does much to distinguish itself from a swathe of similar establishments. (+4) 0728 83 38 28/(+4) 021 312 26 00.’ There is also a local habit of throwing sour cream (smântana) on everything. MPiata Victoriei. From the 92 27. Look out too for good fresh mussels (midii) and hamsii: tasty. Top selection of brews (including several imported British beers and stouts). Sat. served with dumplings (galuşte). B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4 (InterContinental Hotel). The odd Ikea coffee table aside (and let’s face it. the original (we think?) floor looks great and there are a number of different rooms.00:30. all spies and journalists. tel. ciuperci umplute (stuffed mushrooms). It is in fact the kind of place where you could happily enjoy an exotic smoke. PRULKW Queen Casino B-3. Looking like a cross between a Maharaja’s bedroom and the most luxurious hotel in Delhi. Str. QOpen 19:00 . Serving beer. beef and pork.this little bar becomes the most happening venue in town. Quirky little bar close to the Old Town which while not being on the beaten track is a highly popular venue indeed. tel. What could be termed as a good. These are spicy little sausage-shaped meatballs made of mutton. as are the steaks and there is plenty of buffet-style finger food if you just want nibbles with your drinks. who hasn’t got at least half a dozen Ikea coffee tables these days?). Fri.06:00. and it’s the kind of place where you never feel too young or too old. Packed most days with business leaders it also regularly hosts sophisticated. Edgar Quinet 9. It’s corporate and business-like but makes a change from drinking in yet another cellar in Old Town. There’s some good pub grub too. tel. while the wine selection is better than your average wine bar) and cakes that would shame most bakeries. A little bit of everything in a very nice package. With its wooden interior. QOpen 12:00 . PLW Ramayana Cafe A-5. Sat 19:00 . QOpen 11:00 . Look out too for Romanian cakes (prăjituri) son Blu). www. serves Illy coffee and has a couple of tables that double as beds. however. ciorba de perişoare (made with pork meatballs). Gica Petrescu and every other local carouser . QOpen 18:00 . Baldovin Parcalabul 11. Made of borş (a sour. PLW Intermezzo Piano Bar C-5. There is some Romanian beer on tap though. cocktails and coffee there is a nice sunny terrace out back. (+4) 021 403 08 00. and the cafe upstairs comes complete with art on the walls (for PLK Pubs Berarie Gambrinus B-5. www. Str.01:00. There’s a regular crowd of locals and foreigners. PLBSW Happy Pub B-4.02:00. not least the sausages which were Calea Victoriei 37B (Novotel).02:00. and priced accordingly. PVBSW Sky Bar B-3. MUniversitate. Sun 14:00 . (+4) 031 438 01 79. Sometimes there may also be a platter of warm appetizers (gustare calde). (+4) 0372 76 34 45. www. though the most popular are ciorba de legume (made with vegetables). Romanians also have a wonderful tradition of producing and eating fish roe. In theory anything can go into a ciorba. ro. known as icre.02:00. www. while in the evening a similarly mixed crowd of good time people enjoys the laid back atmosphere always on offer here. ro. as are papanaşi: deep fried doughnuts filled with jam. there are always some superb options in good restaurants. When ordering you can avoid this by stating ‘fara branza pe cartofi prajiţi. Q Open 24hrs. (+4) 0733 52 51 50. Str.January 2014 . especially in ciorbe and soups. Most bizarre of all however is the Romanian tendency to cover perfectly good pizza with ketchup.metropoliscasinobucharest. of Caragiale. www. deep fried anchovies. tel. Sun 15:00 .can sometimes be Exceptional. www. Sun 16:00 . J. MP-ta Romana.01:00. ciorba. 6759. Sweets in Romania are sweet indeed. tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66. QOpen 8:00 . Leaving aside the disappointment that Sky Bar . (+4) 021 310 20 20. MGara de Nord. www. almost always served grilled) are available on restaurant menus. Reasonable food and prices. tel. Romanian pork in general is superb. Dionisie Lupu 88 (Piata Lahovari). there is a range of rather unusual beers. Often only carp (called crap in Romanian) and trout (păstrav. It gets crowded downstairs at weekends. featuring a club downstairs (open until 4am).60 NIGHTlIfE Bars By Bars we refer to places where you are likely to do little else other than drink and be merry (though bar snacks may be available). PSW Primus B-5. PSW Edgar’s Pub C-5. (+4) 0736 37 44 32.02:00. MUniversitate. PLEW Ludic C-5. PSW NIGHTlIfE Romanian Food Romanian food. Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel). and this little place opposite Gradina Icoanei is a nice retreat from more frantic venues elsewhere. PBSW Old Nick Pub C-4. B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental). PLK Johnson Grand Plaza).berariegambrinus. although much of the fish they serve will be imported. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. Q Open 24 hrs. It is cool without being pretentious.21:00. Q Open 24 hrs. plots and honey traps. One of the most celebrated and historic pubs in Bucharest . carefully-chosen theme parties. Mamaliga is a Romanian version of polenta made of cornmeal. MUniversitate. www. from the stools at the bar to comfy sofas and armchairs. (+4) 0724 75 Casinos Casino Bucharest C-5. (+4) 0729 89 27 68. MPiata Romana. Str. inoffensive music and gangs of young people clustered around big tables. QOpen 16:00 . 61 Bar A1 B-4. Big pub that goes a long way towards convincing us that we do not need to go to Old Town to find a decent drinker in Bucharest.inyourpocket. Local ice cream (îngheţata) is good and ubiquitous. everything from Scrabble to Cluedo. and popular at Easter). We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and big windows make it a good choice day and night.lacalderon80. While main courses can often be a disappointment. rich in Turkish. available by the metre if that’s what you (+4) 021 317 16 81. but that just adds to the fun. Food (including breakfast). though as this is Bucharest.03:00. Metropolis Casino B-5. They are delicious. drink (the milkshakes are fab. MUniversitate. (+4) 021 314 18 43. or mici. Str. You will love the place. sup on a hookah pipe and drink a green tea. Top cocktail-sipping territory. not Amsterdam. www.02:00. (+4) 021 212 48 86/(+4) 0728 92 06 At lunchtime office boys and students mix happily as they tuck into great sandwiches and salads. tel. spring onions. pull up a cushion. and on some Thursday nights .energiea. Coltei 50. unsurprising when you find out that it is run by the same people who have for ten years operated the legendary Old Nick Pub in Sinaia. The place itself is delightfully chic in that slightly shabby way. carrots and parsnips. PESW La Calderon 80 C-5. Str. is rather good. usually pork). which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period. vă rog’ will suffice. PLEW like the raised interior balcony. or borş de miel (made with lamb. QOpen 10:00 . 04. We like the standard of its fish and seafood specialist restaurants excepted . (+4) 0723 12 48 47.L. PNSW Grand Casino B-6. While you will often see ciorba de pui (ciorba made with chicken). MUniversitate.oldnickpub. As a final word on Romanian food. or tocaniţa (thick stew. December 2013 . tel. but was perfected in Moldavia and later Muntenia. solid.01:00.24:00.01:00. www.23:00. Q Open 24 hrs. (+4) 021 403 19 Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel). You will not find anywhere in Bucharest quite so startling in design. decent music and bar food. There is an increasingly large number of seafood restaurants in Bucharest. Throw in a top cocktail list and great staff and it all means that the city’s other business bars have some real competition at last. These include cheese.inyourpocket. Three-level venue in Piata Lahovari.01:00. Comanita 5. By Pubs we mean venues where you can drink and get half-decent Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard bucharest.01:00. Essential. Sat 15:00 . For some unexplained reason Romanians usually serve their fries covered with grated cheese. (+4) 0730 88 33 77. QOpen 13:00 .happypub. whose stodginess has long been compared to the Romanian temperament. it is worth trying: smoked pork knuckle served with beans. MPiata Romana. Sun 12:00 . Calderon 80. ro. QOpen 08:00 . MUniversitate. www. tel. it’s a classy little place for the monied set which comes here to drink cocktails and dine on very good food. Str.returns. this time as something of a Heinekenpub. (+4) 0742 07 91 20/(+4) 021 367 34 12. www.

not the kind of place for people who use public transport anyway. Check the venue’s website for concert details.24:00. PLEBW Shift C-4.04:00. or at least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere: Caru cu bere. A pint (or the local equivalent) of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei. a decent-tasting bargain. a very different beer to most local brews. If you are looking for sins of the flesh.artjazzclub. but it remains one of the city’s best. (+4) 021 211 22 72. but then this is Jazz Clubs Art Jazz Club B-4. PLEW 63 Romanian Beer Romania has a long. tel. MUniver- Barletto Club Str. Most of the local breweries produce one. Other notable beers include Interbrew’s Bergenbier. PLEBSW Chaos E-6. Sun 09:30 . (+4) 0726 57 78 98. (+4) 0731 64 59 18. while Carlsberg’s locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and very popular. luxurious establishments. (+4) 0751 04 04 06. There’s a big bar and getting a drink .facebook. Oktoberfest and Biutiful are three such places. QOpen 17:30 . producing their own beer. It is. Ciuc and Timisoreana. bitter Ursus Black. tel. from mega-clubs bringing in top foreign DJs each week to local live music venues. Descend into the cellars of the Stirbei Palace and lose yourself in a veritable warren of a venue where trendy young locals have already made a home for themselves. two or even three nubile young ladies. so you can indeed get away with sin.venue. Closed Mon. Fri. BOA (Beat of Angels) B-3. wealthy urbanites. as well as the obligatory bottle of sparkling wine. or even in. Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular in Romania. Carlsberg.barletto. Str. A few venues in Bucharest have microbreweries. Sat 11:00 . Bait and switch operations (you order an 18 year-old with large breasts and you get a 48 year-old with large everything) are commonplace. opposite the Novotel ) after refusing to pay a bill of €3.06:00. Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all popular in Romania. improvements in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe. and the beer is not the cheapest in town. you could be forgiven for thinking Bucharest was the sex capital of the now a joy thanks to top staff. Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller.000. sitate. the law is more a minor obstacle to be overcome than a serious impediment. Ciuc (along with Silva) is owned by Heineken. massage parlours and sex shops per square inch than most places in Eastern Europe. These establishments advertise themselves in seedy publications as legitimate strip There is still good food in the more formal part upstairs. tel. Oltetului 30. For an hour of whatever it is you fancy expect to pay a minimum of €100. Calea Victoriei 52. usually run by very dodgy. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/bar/club of some style. The one exception is Guinness.Q Open 23:00 . Str. Guinness on tap.January 2014 . and always try to convince you to buy them ‘cocktails’ (in fact orange juice with an umbrella. Good beer. big-portioned Romanian food on site. tel. wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury with great music courtesy of two top local resident DJs. You can eat here too: there’s a restaurant serving some terrific. some can allegedly cause you physical harm. The central location right between the Radisson and Hilton guarantees it a steady flow of thirsty visitors. Sun 14:00 . George Enescu 5.06:00.boaclub. Closed Sat. and the drinks are amongst the cheapest in the area. tel. Peroni. and in a number of cases new brews launched: the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers (see below) is one such example. Wed. Make sure you know what you are ordering: you really wouldn’t want to end up with a bottle of Guinness now. (+4) 0731 49 51 White Horse B-3.03:00. tel. We have always loved the square bar. Not all of these ‘night clubs’ are worth your time. The legal option (and the only option we recommend) is erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. Prices start at around €50 though climb higher at the more central. a very good atmosphere and a real favourite of big groups of friends looking for a great night out. Boasting one of the best addresses in the city this seriously underground club is the talk of the town this winter. Art Jazz Club hosts three or four jazz concerts every week. The music is supplied by the world’s best DJs. it is likely that at least nine will respond Ursus.24:00. tel. A recent Romanian newspaper report claimed that a group of American soldiers were recently beaten up in one such establishment (apparently on Str. while downstairs there is a basement bar which becomes more a nightclub with an industrial feel as the evening wears on.most evenings.05:00.04:00.18:00. Imported beers are popular amongst young. even in a club or trendy bar. Sun. Sun 12:00 . Tue. QOpen 12:00 . (+4) Club Eden B-4. the night club itself. Or should it? On a recent visit we found it to be in surprisingly good shape. With large amounts of investment from big foreign brewers the country’s best known beers have been saved from extinction and improved. and wear sunglasses. though discretion remains essential. PBSW 14. sin and more sin anytime you like. Sat. book launches and the like .ro. but act mainly as fronts for whorehouses.mainly local but often foreign . Azuga and Stejar. Note also that it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub as much as a club. And while imported beer is usually a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff. Turturelelor who have taken to it like ducks to water) it is also relatively December 2013 . and packed with both locals of the ‘ordinary people’ variety. PSW Terminus B-5. and one completely illegal. despite any and all appearances. Smashing live music club. The second (and not-always-above-board) option is to simply head for a brothel (surely ‘erotic nightclub? ’ – Ed). www. These escorts are usually unattractive prostitutes who charge €150 upwards for sex. www. plenty of places to chill out and even the toilets are spacious and damn well luxurious. which is far from being a sorry one. such statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania. Fantastic. (+4) 0733 92 78 61. Leffe. which usually costs at least another €50. Primus. www. Oh.04:00.02:00. most exclusive and of course most expensive uber-clubs. comedy. and has been packed since opening day with the hippest and coolest people in the land. Sun 11:00 . and we (and just about everybody else) love it. Pub/bar on the ground floor. NEW Clubs & Discos Bucharest’s club scene is dynamic and one of the best in this part of Europe. and while today there are just 20 breweries in the country (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989). Sun. it’s definitely a place you should visit once before leaving Bucharest.06:00. QOpen 09:00 . During the summer. www. usually costing about €15). PENW Green Hours Jazz Café B-4. QOpen 20:00 . Str. PENBW Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. www. tel. MPiata Romana. MPIata Romana. www.06:00. and you should never have too much trouble finding the major international brands: Heineken . Tue.02:00.shiftpub. found on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs. The quality of the music is almost always good. Calea Victoriei 120. You will almost certainly not be offered any sexual encounters at these places. Str. There is plenty of space to the best probably being Ciuc’s. and often quite dangerous businessmen.inyourpocket.control-club. There is live jazz here alongside and other arty stuff . Sun. Approach all night clubs with caution: check the adult entertainment section of our website: bucharest. The White Horse has been around so long it should probably consider going out to stud. QOpen 09:30 . Found all over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians. Thu. rather than on Balcescu as the address suggests. You will leave wanting to go back and cursing your luck that it is only open twice a week. as well as group of rowdy expats. Still tops our list of ‘clubs for people who do not like clubs. Str. You will need to take a taxi here. Expect good . Thu. and if you ask ten Romanians what the national beer is. but there is still much fun to be had. Featuring some of the sexiest dancers in Romania Friday and Saturday nights here are wild. it’s worth trying. with bar snacks served down. Late at night this is the smartest chill-out venue in the city. These girls sometimes lap dance for you. Closed Mon. from simple hand assistance to full body massage from one. www.whitehorse.inyourpocket. (+4) 021 318 16 67/(+4) 0730 22 25 55. MUniversitate.62 NIGHTlIfE very good attempt at an English breakfast to a decent pint of both Guinness and Kilkenny you can add their own beer. But be careful. tel.’ It is a brilliant place where there is always something going on. The huge windows make it feel much like a street cafe. which also produces the smaller brands Ciucas. Ion Campineanu. Calea Victoriei 107. Constantin Mille 4. before being joined by some very bored and not always attractive young ladies (most of Romania’s best-looking prostitutes are allegedly plying their trade in Germany and the Czech Republic). and you should really think twice before calling them. Service is good too.05:00. tel. but once in. www. Fortunately for the visitor. with a reasonably big name performing at least once or twice a month. Entrance is actually through a small door next to a little car park behind the Senate. Kiseleff 32. would you? In most bars and restaurants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately. Wed. gorgeous. QCafe open 11:00 . From the outside a fairly nondescript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse. one not exactly legal but not exactly illegal either. though you should also keep a look out for Paulaner’s white beer. often even cheaper. Ursus has been brewed since the 1870s.QOpen 13:00 03:00. You could also be forgiven for thinking that prostitution was legal: we can assure you of the fact that it certainly isn’t. George Călinescu 4A. you basically have three options: one legal. www. All this on top of the tab you have already run up of for a list of those we can vouch for. QOpen 18:00 . Sat. but the music is good and for the sheer hell of it. Silva’s Strong Dark is similar and equally good. proud history of brewing good beer. and we love the retro-style black and white tiled floor. The third (and entirely illegal) option is to call one of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality city guides found around PEW Control Club C-5. in a word. Wed. An old cellar is not going to be everyone’s cup of tea. no beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei. be it a DJ or live music supplied by one of Bucharest’s better live acts. Tue. Also worth trying is the dark. PW 021 231 27 95.including look out for lower alcohol radler or lemon beers. Sos. Eremia Grigorescu 17. (+4) 0736 30 07 00. After sitting yourself down at a table you will be served expensive drinks. terminus. Popular with a crowd that encompasses all ages. (We have long suggested that the country’s marketing people use the fact in their international campaigns!) The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus. PBW NIGHTlIfE Vice Advice Wth more acts most nights of the week.greenhours. everybody else seems to! QOpen 23:00 . usually a room above. Indeed. This being Romania however. It’s doubtful that you’ve seen anything like this place in Bucharest Sat. (+4) 0788 45 24 85. There is just about something for every taste. Closed Mon. After half an hour of bored conversation you will be asked if you would like to retreat to a more intimate location. Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba (draught) and la sticla (bottled).com bucharest.once not easy . QOpen 12:00 . It has now had a few names this place.

and many older Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. Casa Poporului (Parliament Palace. Kiseleff George Enescu Museum (Muzeul National George 1. QOpen 22:00 . and hosts more than 10. PL Expirat & OtherSide Club B-5. this is one of the city’s most popular attractions. Worth a look. (+4) 021 410 91 39. Calea Victoriei 141. The draw though remain the participatory cocktails. Hosts regular events. Fratelli Str. Wed. tel. 20:00 06:00. musician and poet you can think of. Sun. www. A club with two faces. Refreshingly. interactive displays. www. Sun. QOpen 14:00 . which are merely for posing.04:00. Str.16:00 (last tour 15:30). Museum and greenhouses cost extra: 2 lei adults.tribute. You will also need to bring your passport. Q Open 20:00 . www. Sf. MUniversitate.expirat.06:00. www. Tue. Str. Besides a fantastic resident band. www. Closed Mon. It has been in a few locations over the years. Tue. well equipped conference centre. tel.05:00. chances are there is bound to be something going on you fancy. as well as the odd politician. Closed Mon. The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it is the only way to see the building. Tue. while . Str.04:00. Admission 6 lei. After that you can head for the sights we list here. (+4) 0728 74 28 tel. PNW WHAT TO SEE Essential Bucharest The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days should probably be the Old Town (see page 72). however. There are two permanent National Art Museum (MNAR. pensioners 10 lei. Still the best cocktail bar this side of the River Prut. MIzvor. It became state property in 1955.mnar. Get in. bags of other events and refreshingly says ‘NO’ to table service: yes. Tue. A great place to see good local bands. offers a mix of music centering on (but in no way confined to) alternative rock. Q Open 22:00 . Plan on staying late. Str. MPiata Victoriei. From November 1 Open 10:00-18:00. Deja-vu C-5. PUE 83. tel. €14 million refit. Moonlight Club C-4. A nakedly non-commercial club that attracts a nakedly non-commercial crowd on two levels offering hard rock. it today plays host to the Romanian parliament and a our opinion . tragically killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). children/students 5 lei. www. antipa. Closed Mon. PLEW Music Club C-6. Q Open 10:00 . tel. you should make reservations a day in advance as parliamentary business means the official opening hours are subject to change. For locals. A place that goes from strength to strength. Originally designed (by a young architect: Anca Brilliant. where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. as well as Romania’s Museum of Contemporary Art. PEW fratelli.. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of the building down below. QOpen 20:00 . Botanical Museum open 10:00-15:00.06:00. You could spend half a day here wandering between the Palatul Parlamentului (known universally as Casa Poporului) began in 1984. a sign of its enduring popularity. tel. Admission to the gardens QOpen 21:00 . So good is the sound that the biggest local bands are playing here simply for the hell of it. A live music venue where you’ll find a great resident band most evenings performing creditable covers of all your favourite classic hits. Sat. tel. PLE MPiata Unirii/Izvor. Wed. Big and cavernous it nevertheless always seems to be packed out. The most famous building in the city and usually top of the agenda for most visitors. (+4) 021 313 55 92. folk rock. was founded in 1860 and today extends over an area of more than 17 this is still in many ways the Downtown as many will remember it. tel. Cotroceni 32. while last but not as well as a full telling of the story of Romanian music in general. it is now open during the day for food too: you could spend your whole life in here. Free for children under 18 and the disabled. Sun 18:00 . you will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink.00 lei is payable by those with cameras. When his sons fell into financial ruin some years later. You will find rooms full of the usual memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Romania’s most famous composer. They also serve at least one which involves a young Russian girl squeezing lemon into your mouth with her teeth. they were forced to sell the building to the state. the building has long been shrouded in mystery. One of Romania’s finest museums. QOpen 23:00 . the building we see today is more or less the original. when it became the site of the court of the first prince of the united principalities. Closed Sun. cheap entrance fee and – most of all – by the fabulous greenhouses. unlike a few clubs of the upmarket kind. (+4) 021 636 35 MPiata Unirii.gradina-botanica. PEW Botanical Gardens Sos. usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu. An additional fee of 30. and there are two bars meaning that you never have to wait too long to get served. 09:00-13:00 Sat. first built in 1812 as a private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. (+4) 0724 75 13 51. Greenhouses open 10:00-13:00. Casa Poporului/Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down. it’s a cavernous venue with terrific acoustics and it is this mix of big club/small concert hall that gives it the edge over some other venues. www. Closed Mon.inyourpocket. marble-plated halls and conference rooms. What’s more. if the excitement of live music is what you are looking for. closed Mon. students and children 2.if you pay the extra . (+4) Kristal Glam Club B-5. The Peasant and Village Museums should take priority. MPolitehnica. MUniversitate. (+4) 0722 50 17 93. it’s open every night of the week (many clubs in Bucharest are not) and there is always. as well as the Grigore Antipa National History Museum. Next to the cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor. No chance of feeling either too young or too old here. Wed.000 species of plants. reggae and disco sometimes thrown in for good measure. Kulturhaus C-6. memorials and statues (the graves are grouped by profession: scientists in one part. (+4) 021 318 14 50. Şos. 13 lei students (standard tour). and as it has an OtherSide (Expirat’s club within a club). Glodeni 1-3. this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905. Tue. Although slightly remodelled in the 1930s. Founded in the 1850s. but you’ll get a better view from Piata Unirii. We are fans. Izvor is probably the nearest metro station. Fri. this is Bucharest’s most historic cemetery. Alexandru Ion Cuza. always something going on.16:00.06:00. in a converted cinema close to the city centre is . Looking (inside) very much like a. approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. To join one of the tours. Calea Victoriei 118. QOpen 23:00 . Closed Mon. the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian literary. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from both Romania and tel.arts. B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 30/(+4) 021 314 81 19. QOpen 10:00 . artistic and political history. A winner. QOpen 10:00 . Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the palace (if you’re looking at it front-on). scientist. new www. some of which involve fire. who was just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the communist state. (+4) 021 311 36 11. PEW 0766 05 61 70. Panic!. terrace and basement). remains unused. easy parking on surrounding streets. Get in there. writer. Each has his or her own plot. Sun. Wed. but is a must nevertheless.00 lei. MIzvor. Now prefaced by Moonlight.20:00. Closed Mon. Packed with terrific exhibits (including the obligatory dinosaur skeletons) which will keep kids of all ages and their parents occupied for the best part of the day.06:00. and pretty much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ. rumour and hyperbole. Admission 25 lei adults. this is one first class venue. www. Mendeleev 32. adding a number of new wings.a thorough guide to the incredible amount of animal and plant life native to Romania. complete with girls dancing on the bar in their underwear and some of the liveliest theme nights in the city. Sun. Calea Plevnei 61.January 2014 . Baratiei The Botanical Garden is also home to the Botanical Museum. B-dul Regina Elisabeta 34.. a noted Romanian naturalist who then set-up and ran the museum for almost five decades until his death in 1944. Vineri 4. silver church (albeit one which has dropped plenty of acid). where the richest and best looking people in the city come to see and be seen. Tue. (Expirat). and a few which involve wearing a World War II Russian army helmet. Construction of Romania’s most famous building. which offers perhaps the best view of central Bucharest. punk and indie upstairs. Panic! C-5. Sun. well. tel. Attracted by its relatively central location. built in the 1880s in the style of the cathedral at Karlovy Vary and boasting stunning interior paintings. www. Closed Mon. (The OtherSide). QOpen 08:00 . tel. 18 lei students (standard and terrace). www. but the latest. Closed Mon. alternative. Ion Brezoianu 4. Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer George Enescu’s former home. Free entry on the 26th of each month. during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. (+4) 0722 79 51 84. The building which houses it all is itself worthy of note. www. the year of Enescu’s death.bellu. Calea 13 Septembrie 1. Standing 84m above ground level on 12 floors. You’ll see plenty of grand staircases. 65 Bellu Cemetery Calea Serban Voda 249. One of Bucharest’s uber-clubs. Str.) Has a live band playing at least once a week. www. either still or video. rock and indie with hip-hop. Thu.cdep. children 1.05:00. Offers a mix of house and South American beats on the music front. the garden is a gorgeous place and is packed at Basically. Wed. Calea Victoriei 49-53. MUniversitate. tel. there are all sorts of hands-on. Thu. Closed Mon. www. (+4) 0731 03 62 22. and a year later opened as a museum dedicated to his life and work. Kristal has a proper dance floor for those who actually like to enjoy themselves. Muzeul National de Arta) B/C-5. Tue. (+4) 0723 37 90 26. who love the atmosphere provided by a great crowd and wonderful acoustics. It became a royal residence in 1859. Bang in the city centre (it’s on Calea Victoriei) it’s a great choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking about where to move on to. (Check the venue’s Facebook page to see what’s on the night you fancy going). Much of the building. MPiata Unirii/Univer- bucharest. tel.00 lei. 23 lei students (standard. tel. At weekends it is packed and the small dancefloor is the sweatiest place in Bucharest. MPiata Victoriei. actors in another etc). The music policy is a bit of everything: folk (usually live on Mondays). Str. Drinks are well priced. Tue. Sun.clubkristal.64 NIGHTlIfE Cuzco Club C-4. 45 lei adults. MEroii Revolutiei. There are plenty of live acts performing regularly and there’s always a good crowd of music lovers to share it all with. Tribute is also regularly host to a number of the best live acts in the business. QOpen 23:00 . QOpen 22:00 . Palatul Parlamentului) the final resting place of just about every great Romanian academic.the best yet.panic-club. though again this costs extra. Tue. and the crowd it attracts is a rich mix of age groups.08:00. One of the biggest clubs in central Bucharest. They are more often than not joined on stage in the early hours by leading Romanian musicians who have quickly made this place their preferred haunt. The student favourite. The garden. Academiei 19. (+4) 0720 88 71 15. PEW Tribute B-4. Admission 15 lei. 35 lei tel. in fact) though the commentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling off endless superlative statistics. QOpen 17:00 . Bucharest’s longest-running uber-club. it is clear that the people who run this place consider the music to be as important as anything else: something not every club in this town can boast. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726 80 41 42. Thu.cuzcoclub. tel. (+4) 021 313 30 Bucharest In Your Pocket the basement . www.Q Gardens open 08:0020:00. artificial caves and . Expirat is home to some of Bucharest’s most eclectic sounds. administratively part of Bucharest University’s Botanical Institute. driving license or other form of internationally accepted ID. and most impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former Royal Palace. closed may also have the chance to go on the roof.50 lei. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at the National Art Museum. as well as regular live events. Mendeelev 35. including stand-up comedy (of the Romanian variety). purpose built in 1908 at the behest of Grigore Antipa. You should also be sure to visit the central chapel (which keeps the same hours as the cemetery itself).17:00. Enescu) B-4. Not cheap (kind of the point) if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a table (which requires you buy a bottle of spirits) then you can still have a reasonably priced night out here.06:00. 1 leu children. PENW out in the Romanian possibly the first club in Bucharest named after a song by The December 2013 . tel. and one of the best natural history museums in Europe. as well as 3D films. which recently benefited from a three year.tscarena. It’s a bit classier than your average Bucharest club.georgeenescu. electro. Closed Mon. The country’s largest. 30 lei adults. still probably your first reference point for top international DJs and hedonistic nights The Silver Church A-5. Sun. Top notch.kulturhaus. Closed Mon. Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History (Muzeul de Istorie Naturală Grigore Antipa) B-3. Very nice indeed: be prepared to have a very good time. (+4) 021 311 23 22. artist. which carried out huge modifications. (+4) 021 312 88 26. 13 lei students (standard and basement).

competing with the Athenee Palace Hilton hotel. CEC) is one of the most fabulous Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that houses the entrance. MUniversitate. CEC B-4. pensioners 5 lei. Admission 8 lei. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring.has in recent years been defaced by the addition of advertising hoardings. we’ve thrown them all together here. the building was inaugurated on February 26. Today. Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89 was home to the Museum of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary Workers Movement. most of which was painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds services in Romanian and Hungarian. 67 Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman) December 2013 . with its elegant dome and gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul. The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de Economii si Consemnaţiuni. Last admission 17:00. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from. WHAT TO SEE Casa Presei Libere (Casa Scânteii) A-1. for its sumptuous icons featuring scenes from the Nativity and Revelations. although there has been a church here since the late 1590s. Şos. and Gheorghe Tattarescu). Kiseleff 3. Buildings with a history Bucharest has a number of curious. wooden construction. MUniversitate. including Ion Jalea. when it served as the church of the Târnovului Monastery) the Apostles’ Church is notable for its sublime steeple. First built as early as the 1300s.January 2014 . Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu. Constantin Medrea and Constantin Baraschi. An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance to the capital. entrance to the building has been granted only to those on government business. (+4) Arcul de Triumf A-2. the auditorium can seat 800 spectators comfortably. replaced by the present. first constructed in 1506. It even has a restaurant. dating from 1912. Benjamin Franklin 1-3. Today the home of the Romanian government. Dobrogea and Moldavia.50 lei. Audio guides available for 50 lei. Baratiei 27. MUniversitate. Str. painted in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu. this particular Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828. The Peasant Museum is one of the most enjoyable in Bucharest.muzeul-satului. Bucharest’s Arc de T riumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate Romania’s World War I dead. QOpen 09:00 . one of the country’s most popular dailies. when a campaign called ‘Give a penny for the Atheneum’ (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu) rescued the project from folly after the original patrons ran out of funds. The museum also hosts a fine selection of temporary exhibitions. originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now elsewhere. Admission 10 lei. Kiseleff 28-30. under the heading Buildings with a history. Calea Victoriei 28. Baratiei Church (Biserica Baratiei) C-6. Creţulescu Church (Biserica Creţulescu) C-5. 1888. Piata Arcul de Triumf. Founded by Royal Decree in 1936. the museum offers a range of exhibitions showing you all you need to know about the diverse and fascinating history of life around the Romanian countryside over the past four centuries. do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae Ghica-Budeş Children love the museum. which plays host to a fine collection of Old European Masters from all of the major schools. Colţea Church (Biserica Colţea) C-5. MPiata Victoriei. B-dul Nicolae Apostles’ Church (Biserica Sfintii Apostoli) B-6. There are more than 60 original houses. the houses are not. MPiata Victoriei. Standing 25 metres high. as well as a seat of learning. (+4) 021 315 25 67. Calea Victoriei 13. is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. with its sublime baroque cupola. Recent renovation has restored much of the rich ornamentation of the interior. Atheneum (Ateneul Român) C-5. Baratiei. Doamnei Church (Biserica Maicii Domnului) C-5. The sculptures and reliefs that decorate the monument were created by the leading artists of the day. and a stall selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. tel.fge. the work of an unknown artist. French. MPiata Unirii. Look out for the Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque portal. Built during the last decade of the nineteenth century. To the left (face on) of the Colţea Hospital. currently including frescoes from the Arges Monastery. Constantin Brancuşi. www. Most of the houses date from the mid and Modern Romanian Art. www.inyourpocket. and it makes for a perfect family outing. 021 317 91 10. while the interior icons were added in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe this could well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. historical buildings. who also designed the National Bank of Romania. the church of the same name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older. Nobody is exactly sure how long there has been a church here.celebrated for their intricately carved entrances . and was built on the orders of Princess Maria. The facade . windmills. Spanish. The museum hosts craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month. Closed Mon. QOpen 10:00 . www. students and children 2 lei.was founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino). (The church . is just one newspaper still produced here. Q Open 10:00-18:00. on Aleea Alexandu.featuring icons. Essential. wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. Outstanding. the Royal Palace and the old national library for attention. The bell tower through which we today enter the monastery was added in 1857. One of Bucharest’s many hidden churches: find it in the little courtyard behind Pizza Hut on the corner of Calea Victoriei and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta. French. There are audioguides available in English. and was built almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citizens of the capital. the church has recently been restored to its full glory. split over three floors of the main building. watermills and churches from all of Romania’s historic regions: Transylvania. Calea Victoriei 47. but there are some. MPiata Unirii/Universitate. the legendary founder of Bucharest. MAviatorilor. 10 lei for The National Gallery (T reasure included) and 15 lei for combined tickets (both galleries). though it is closed most of the time and only opened on special occasions (usually on national holidays). Casa Scanteii (as it is still universally known) was designed by architect Horia Maicu and completed in 1956. MAviatorilor. or the brightly painted dwellings of the Danube Delta. and is a must. all of which are well worth seeing. Russian 300 lei: call in advance). The name.66 WHAT TO SEE galleries. but we Bălcescu 1. bucharest. Piata Presei Libere 1. Among the portraits are those of the church’s founder. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art. Saturday and Sunday) and has a cafe. Replicas of some of what is on display can be bought in the excellent museum shop. Str. with all of Romania’s greatest 20th century artists well represented. and restored in 1936. it today carries out much the same function. farmsteads. the Arc has a staircase that allows visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monument. the building is no less impressive on the inside. Village Museum (Muzeul Naţional al Satului Dimitrie Gusti) A-2. stands proudly at the flux of the city’s busiest public square. set in an original 19th-century inn. Note that while the museum is open on Mondays. complete with exquisite but faded icons.once rather fetching . You should also not miss the earth houses of Straja. hidden as it is on a hill above the street and hemmed in by two blocks. and European Paintings and Sculpture. The highlight of the museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden Maramureş church. tel. The church was the first Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Originally housing the editorial offices of almost all of the capital’s newspapers. one year after the strikingly similar (though much taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw. Str. with its mighty Corinthian columns.which date from as early as 1775. including Theodor Aman. One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century. derives from the Hungarian word for friend. which fit none of our other categories all that well. and refugees. The outstanding paintings on the entrance are original.inyourpocket. Bucur Church C-7. Note that ever since several thousand uninvited coal miners trashed the place in 1991. Italian. pensioners 4 lei. The work of French architect Albert Galleron. Entrance to the craft fairs usually costs around 6 lei. and the works of Carol Popp de Szathmári and the artistic revelation of the Orient. not least the huge entrance hall with its sensational glass roof. Poland. Mon 09:00 17:00. illustrated manuscripts and bibles. students/children 2. patriarch of the Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim 29. Possibly the finest building in the city. Antim originally intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women. German and Romanian from 12 lei. The splendid Antim Monastery. Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic George Enescu. Palatul din Piata Victoriei (Palatul Victoriei) B-4. the Romanian Atheneum. Jurnalul Naţional. The museum has a great souvenir shop. from colourful religious icons to a huge range of traditional clothing. some even now have recorded commentary in four languages (press the second button for English). The church is named for Bucur the Shepherd. and fragments of frescoes.18:00. and is renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics. B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1. Radu Voda 33. Probably the most celebrated historic church in the hospital which surrounds it . and one of the best in the country. Tue. such as those from Berbeşti. Closed Mon. barat. www. La Francu. The church dates from 1683. The original Arc was made of wood. There are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life. this linear construction. carved altars. The current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. and covering some 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herăstrău. in the heart of Romania . and dome that nods towards the style of later Byzantine cathedrals. (+4) 021 317 96 61. It also puts on children’s puppet shows at weekends (usually at 10:30 and 12:00. in a far less grand building). tel. As a result. Gheorghe Patraşcu. to the designs of French architect Paul Gottereau. Biserica Creţulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache Creţulescu and his wife Safta. Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange portraits. was built in 1937 to the designs of Duiliu Marcu. Damaged during the fighting of December 1989. Str. there is a collectivisation exhibition in the basement. a daughter of Romanian humanitarian Constantin Brâncoveanu. dug in to the ground and topped with thatched Sfintii Apostoli 33A. Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in 1935. built in 1715. National Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian Art . Voivod Matei. Bucharest’s Historic Churches Antim Monastery (Manastirea Antim) B-6. Muzeul Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery. Str. guided tours in English. the Bucur Church is often ignored. with its marble facade.

the palace was designed by a French team of architects. Sun. Admission 27. Seletti and ToyWatch. accessories and designer objects from names including Muuto. The monastery was added in 1570. QOpen 12:00 . Schitul Darvari 3. the red brick Italian church looks a little uncomfortable in its setting.schituldarvari. A gallery of applied art. After the communist takeover in the 1940s it was used as a dumping ground for the collections of wealthy Romanians not allowed to retain their art by the regime. They also decorate the door. Built in 1885. Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. Building work almost immediately started on a third church. Str. MPiata Unirii. and form part of the tour of the palace). Calea Victoriei 111.50 lei. tel. but was bought by the state in 1883 and used as the country’s supreme court. painting. a community of monks lived here continuously from 1835 to 1959. Museums B-4. students and children 21.17:30.QOpen 09:30 . Agnes Keszeg and Ciprian Vrabie. Serious cracks that appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s. B-6. Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Sfintii Apostoli. Note the grave of General Ioan Odobescu (1793-1857) alongside the church. though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th the Patriarchal having been designed by an Italian. Fri. Next to the church . The Church of the Icon is named after the 17th century icon of the Holy Virgin in the nave. (+4) 021 212 96 41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. It was a wonder of the a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in busy central Bucharest.inyourpocket. There was originally a wooden church on this site. George’s Church (Biserica Sf. Str. Built to a design based on the Curtea de Arges. Str. Str. www. The church is richly decorated both inside and out. but which burnt down soon after.muzeulcotroceni. Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarhia) C-6/7. though the construction of the Civic Centre hid it from the river and from general view. New St. You will see a number of function rooms. Icoanei 12. MPiata Unirii. Radu Vodă 24A. but the overwhelming majority of the cathedral’s structure is the original.20:00. with its lovely grounds . but that was also later damaged. Q Open 11:00-19:00. installation and mixed media. a few words about the building. Features local and international contemporary artists. George’s Church was consecrated on June 29th. tel. it has undergone a number of facelifts over the years. Italian Church (Chiesa Italiana/Biserica Italiană) New St. MPiata Unirii. Domniţa Balaşa Church (Biserica Domniţa Balaşa) Schitul Darvari (Darvari Hermitage) C-5. Known as Renovated extensively in 1894 and again from 1933-4. It was built in 1708. 1707. from Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor Pallady. The walled Schitul Darvari. as well as local designers Andreea Badala (Murmur). Admission 7. Str. Cosmina Nicolescu (Fandacsia). There are some fantastic works on was originally a private church for the Darvari family and their close acquaintances. residence of the Patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox Church. French and English. and restored in 1958. tel. built between 1654 and 1658. Look at it from the other side of the road however. In terms of artistic importance the collections here are second only to those at the National Museum of Art. near Pitesti. Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Damaged in a fire in 1847. B-dul N. the high altar was added in 1850. the Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century.68 WHAT TO SEE in the city to boast octagonal stone pillars: note the decorative floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot and top of each column. Carol I. tel. Juxtaposed by 1930s blocks on the busiest street in the city. Pols Potten. Tours are available in Romanian. www. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his wife Elena . Firstly. and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. but that too proved unstable and just 40 years later it was replaced by the current Neo-Romanesque building. (+4) 0727 89 07 20. MUniversitate. the church was renovated from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. Brâncoveanu is himself allegedly buried under the church.00 lei. and its glorious Neo-Gothic exterior. (+4) 021 317 31 07. www. the first brick church being erected in 1745-50. Str. Galateca Gallery (NeoGalateca Gallery-Shop) C-6. www.galateca. QOpen 12:00 – 20:00. Bălcescu 28.00 lei. New and outstanding interior murals were added by Marian Popp.zorzinigallery. The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698.dates from 1613-4. Closed Mon. A wooden church was built on this site as early 1681-82. which includes graphics. C.who purchased the site from the Biserica Icoanei . Ferdinand. MPolitehnica. Closed Sun. Currently represents Nicolae Comanescu. In 1751 a second church was built. Sat 11:00 – 19:00. a gift from Constantin Brâncoveanu. built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad. MPiata Unirii. the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. (+4) 0376 20 31 77.and closed to the public . around 1508. Last tour begins at . who built an earlier church on the site in 1744. during an earthquake in 1838.00 lei. The painted interior of the bell tower is amazing. Art Collection Museum (Muzeul Colectiilor de Artă) Icon Church (Biserica Icoanei) C-4. The church is owned by the Italian government. The church of the former Radu Vodă Monastery stands on a hill on the banks of the Dâmboviţa. the church is named after Constantin Brâncoveanu’s sixth daughter. Part of the palace is open to the public. Lucian Broscatean. Thomas Masaryk 31. and decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the painter Mutu. adorned with a helmet.which resembles the Curtea de Argeş. Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romania’s first king. only for it to collapse during a devastating earthquake in 1838. Built on the site of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of which remain. Dealul Mitropoliei. Str. many of which were decorated to the whims of Marie. Vaseleli. Radu Vodă Monastery (Mănăstirea Radu Vodă) Zorzini Gallery C-5. Rebuilt the same year. Admission includes entrance and the compulsory guided tour. Rosetti 2-4. Closed Mon. when they were forced to move to Cernica Monastery by Romania’s communist authorities. The largest of the churches built in Bucharest during the reign of Constantin Brâncoveanu. outside Piteşti . including paintings by all of Romania’s greatest artists. Contemporary Art Galleries The present church . while the NeoGalateca shop sells fashion. housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Fine contemporary art gallery working with both established and emerging Romanian artists that correspond to the gallery’s aesthetic agenda. Gheorghe Nou) C-6. C-5. Miki Puran (Maracuja). the English wife of Carol’s heir. complete with Florentine tower is quite stunning. and can be visited on a tour. Cotroceni Museum B-dul Geniului 1. Closed Thu. when the frescoes (all the work of Gheorghe Tattarescu) were added. The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private residence. Gheorghe. Piata Sf. Carla Szabo. only to be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977. led by Paul Gottereau. students/children 3.

ro. office@ romania-to-go. the factories. and with the opening of the staircase now serves three functions. is housed in one of the original exhibition pavilions). In fact. (+4) 021 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. (+4) 0723 75 32 00. the building is a splendid example of Neo-Brancovenesque architecture. CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of Bucharest (from €29). next to the observatory of Bucharest University’s Astronomy Department is a popular if rather rundown venue for concerts. Cismigiu is nevertheless the most central of the city’s public gardens and worth a stroll. There is also an old steam engine for kids to clamber on. (+4) 0733 55 78 50. MUniversitate. Anyone who still thinks that Bucharest is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung. the Peasant 336 93 90. Bucharest’s Parks Carol Park (Parcul Carol I/Parcul Libertăţii) C-7. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is the work of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru.00 lei. really. Spătarului 22. bronze. which might explain why half of the Pantelimon Art Tower Pantelimon Art Tower (Make a Point) Sos. children 2. The agency offers the only daily group tour (which anyone can join) to Peles Castle and Bran (Dracula’s) Castle for €69 per person. We think it’s one of the highlights of the city’s cultural scene and a visit here has the added bonus of getting you into the Casa Poporului without taking the guided tour. tel. Mr. All tours include free pick-up and return from any Bucharest hotel. TravelMaker Str. Str. the park is today dominated by the massive Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Calea Victoriei. built to host the 1906 Romania Fair. on the corner of B-dul Tineretului and Calea Vacaresti. The museum even has a great cafe. as well as the services of a professional English-speaking guide (other languages are availble on request). Madalina Rosca.Bucharest we should start by exploring the city’s margins. There is an extra charge for cameras of 30 lei. a showcase of everything great in and about Romania at the time. for free. and was commissioned by the Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharest’s hosting that year of the Francophonie conference. and regular topical exhibitions. a children’s funfair. Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana) B-6. tel. Sighisoara and Brasov.being logically presented . The price is €59/person. Sos. Tripp offers a number of terrific tours. it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu. One of the most original projects to be seen in this city for many a year. we are happy to have found an organisation that shares this vision. Bucharest means the whole city. (The Technical TransVision runs a number of tours around Romania. National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC. It was recently renovated and is a good choice for families with kids. Free entrance for children. 13 Septembrie 1. cttours. QOpen 10:00 . sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes.clarity. For what you see from up here is far more representative of this city than what you will see from any of the tall buildings closer to the city centre. and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs. The blocks. It’s a long ride. Admission 10 lei. and several nationwide tours of varying lengths. Calea as well as a local guide. MTineretului. and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour. an airport shuttle service and private transfers.mnac. www. All entrance fees also included. before travelling on the busy roads to their places of work in the factories. The museum’s saving grace is the house in which it is hosted. ro/point/TurnulDeArta. to the left of the main entrance.50 lei. A large. Str. tel. mostly lovely park featuring some of the best playgrounds in the city. Guided tours in Romanian 20 lei.00 lei. Other foreigners honoured with statues include William Shakespeare. On the other side of the park it is worth looking out for the medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from 1906) now used as offices by the Romanian Army’s veteran’s association. www. (+4) 0735 52 57 10. a go-kart track. Divided into two parts. (+4) 0724 71 88 48. inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. The real joy of the tower however is the perspective of Bucharest you get from the viewing platform. trampolines and dodgems. Look out also for local artists Nicolae Grigorescu. www.00 lei. tennis courts. To us. Str. however. and they will even pick you up from. including a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles Castle. Visit Romania. Oh./fax (+4) 021 336 31 63. football pitches. Schooled in Dresden and Paris. Geology Museum B-3.18:00. The first thing you will see when entering the park from Piata Charles de Gaulle is a tall. bl. Quite simply. www. We are inclined to agree: indeed. Ady Endre. not just the more (in)famous bits in the middle. QOpen 10:30 . Tue. English and French 30 lei. Closed Mon. The best part of Tineretului however is probably the southern side. this glorious park. traveltobucharest. Tue. At least not in this day and age. Blocks in which people sleep. Admission 4. refreshment kiosks and terraces. Tripp C-4. the Pantelimon Art Tower first came to public attention last year. tel. Must See Romania and Meeting Dracula. reservations@ travelmaker. 021 232 03 31. cutting edge when they first appeared. They also provide hotel accommodation all over was only the beginning of Make a Point’s plans for the 37-metre high water tower (a part of the Postavaria textile plant). (+4) 021 212 89 52. entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamentului). Sos. with some of the older steam engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century. B-dul Tineretului. as well as get a closer look at Daniel’s mural. So we wholeheartedly recommend a trip to the Pantelimon Art Tower. Q The tower is open on request. Designed by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont. spread over 187 hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bucharest’s crown.70 WHAT TO SEE Sightseeing Tours Cultural Travel & Tours Tel. Pallady was influenced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th century. take bus No. It is today home to the tomb of Romania’s unknown soldier. MPiata Victoriei. the incomparable Herastrau complete with big wheel and other rides. A little shabbier and generally less well-kept than Bucharest’s other parks. rather bizarre statue of de Gaulle himself. XXI-2. Yes. There are also works on display by international artists. The open-air Arenele Romane in the west of the park. Theodor Pallady Museum (Casa Melik) D-5.set above a large artificial lake. QOpen 09:00 . which includes the tomb of Vlad Tepes (Dracula): notoriously difficult to get to independently. Built in the 1960s the water tower is still functional. your hotel. a number of themed tours around Wallachia and Transylvania. Make a Point (whose HQ is in a building next to the tower) now make use of the interior for exhibitions and installations: windows have been added and as you make your way up the exterior staircase. you can look inside and see the work on display (which is often hung from the rafters). built in 1796 and famous for its many exterior icons.18:00. as well as playgrounds and plenty of tree-lined avenues great for strolling. For both tours. First off. 71 TransVision Tel. Closed Sat. as well as some good. Often unfairly derided as an outdated (if amusingly so) museum of technology. students and children 4. Highlights include the Roman Garden.and even begin to like . The price is €159/person and includes a night at a three-star hotel with breakfast. Built in 1906 on the orders of King Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian Geology Society. Charles de Gaulle is not the only historic figure honoured in this part of the park with a statue or bust.inyourpocket. and if the weather is good enough its terrace offers fantastic views of the city. Besides organising no fewer than four tours of Bucharest (including a Communist Heritage Tour) there are also loads of Romania excursions to choose from too. Cismigiu has a couple of cafes. Str. Close by is the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church. Admission 5. QOpen 10:00 .18:00. and was unveiled on New Year’s Eve 2012. RomaniaToGo. The mural. The museum is housed in something of a cherished relic itself: the last remaining pavilion (of many) National Technical Museum (Muzeul Tehnic Dimitrie Leonida) C-7. (+4) 0755 05 26 21. city break packages and short trips. volleyball and basketball for these features if you missed them in print). from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae Balcescu to Bengali literature’s most important figure. www. Elena Vacarescu December 2013 . and there’s a memorial to Michael Jackson too. as well as writers George Cosbuc. www. pretty much all of it with these people. Bucurestii Noi (see inyourpocket. Sun. Mr. 3.makeapoint. Et. (+4) 021 211 49 79. WHAT TO SEE city chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons here. TravelMaker operates escorted group tours from and around Bucharest. All tours feature free hotel pick-ups and drop-offs. tel. The work of Make a Point. 104 from Piata Unirii. Brasov and Sinaia (€79). Parcul Vacaresti) Herastrau Park B-3. These include Transylvania In One Day. Closed Mon. however. MAviatorilor. Mihai this vast gallery displays the work of Romania’s finest contemporary artists. booking@traveltobucharest. Other flexible services and guides in a variety of languages are available on request. They were all. Originally called the Casa Melik. Bucharest’s Geology Museum is one of the city’s best. tel. www. In the middle of the park is the Sala Polivalenta – a popular venue for concerts and big indoor sporting events . there is the museum building itself to admire.Q Open 11:00 . MIzvor.00 lei. as any regular readers will know we have recently begun to feature parts of Bucharest other city guides never reach: Titan. Tue.January 2014 . Their half-day tour of the city (€29) is an excellent introduction to Bucharest. you will realise that’s kind of the point. Candiano Popescu 2. You can skate on the lake in winter. allowing visitors to climb up to a viewing deck from where you can admire the Pantelimon neighbourhood. laid out in the style of ancient Rome. Call (+4) 0723 753 200 to arrange a visit (English spoken). and drop you off back at. Rabindranath Tagore. Closed Mon. With help from ING bank a rather impressive exterior staircase has now been added. Up by Sala Polivalenta you will also find the entrance to Oraselul Copiilor. Ap. with a decent number of English captions. RomaniaToGo Tel.00 lei. for they are as an important part of the city’s urban and cultural heritage as the more postcard-friendly centre.geology. This large park was created for the Romania in the World exhibition which was held here in and including busts of Romania’s most famous writers. www. The winning entry was a design by the Lebanese artist Georges Daniel. Alexandru Vlahuta and Romania’s national poet.. bucharest. however. tel. office@cttours. Making excellent use of the wide open spaces of the Parliament Palace. Kiseleff 2. Here you will find the best and biggest children’s playgrounds in the city.. the main section (closest to Tineretului metro) offers a few rides for kids. also including Sibiu.romania-to-go. Stirbei Vodă and B-dul Schitu Măgureanu.html. which takes in some of the less picturesque parts of Bucharest: if you have been paying attention. Morarilor 1. MEroii Revolutiei. and Ion Jalea’s French Memorial in Carrara marble which commemorates those French troops killed on Romanian territory during World War an organisation committed to bringing art closer to people and to promoting the Pantelimon area of Bucharest just as it is (warts and all). Calea Serban Vodă.com. if you book online and you can get a ten per cent discount. In Make a Point. that to properly understand . Theodor Pallady (1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as Romania’s most influential 20th century painter. the alleyways and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted with famous people. Admission 8.18:00. not the least of which is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia and Snagov for €49. Tineretului Park (Parcul Copiilor. The museum’s permanent collections are impressive in size and . Alas the small museum that today bears his name has only six of his paintings. students.inyourpocket. large children’s playgrounds.transvision.1. known as Parcul Vacaresti or Parcul Copiilor. (+4) 021 318 91 37. Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta. Gen. There is also a full-day trip of Sighisoara.bucharestcitytour. (+4) Cismigiu Gardens (Grădina Cismigiu) B-5. the traffic: these are what an eastern European city like Bucharest is all about. Closed Mon. To get there. Another option is a two-day tour of Transylvania. it should be remembered that the machines. Dumbrava Rosie 3. Kiseleff turbines. Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman. when Make a Point held a competition to choose a mural to place at the top. Sandor Petofi and Victor Hugo. Rasnov Citadel and Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania. Admission free. (+4) 0745 75 27 53. Can also arrange airport transfers. students and children 2. the transformation of an old industrial water tower into a Bucharest landmark is now complete. It has been argued by one of the founders of Make a Point.

Also serves very good Romanian food (see the review for Manuc Bistro in the Romanian restaurants section) as well as decent Lebanese at Levantin. Then make sure you head along Strada Stavropoleos to see its architectural gems: the church which shares its name and the Caru’ cu Bere pub and restaurant. fbsmardan@gmail. National History Museum and CEC building before coming back into the Old Town via Strada Franceza and the Sf. Hanul lui Manuc is one of the best places in the city to sit and enjoy either coffee . before heading to the Russian Church (officially called the St. Str. (+4) 021 310 43 89.72 OLD TOWN Opera Novotel Grand Continental OlD TOWN Maje Capitol 73 stic Casa Caps a Cismigiu Z Boutique Museum of Bucharest Central Doamnei K&K Elisabeta Coltea Church & Hospital Russian Church Rembrandt Mihai Voda History Museum Stavropoleos Tania Church Sf. Dumitru more besides. Bucharest’s smartest chain of bakeries comes to Old Town. MPiata Unirii. complete with the slogan: ‘Send more tourists.January 2014 . PW Souvenir Shop C-5. frenchbakery. vehicles strictly limited. Franceza 62.with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts available . www. QOpen 10:00 .or cocktails (both with and without alcohol). So much more than wine and coffee on offer here you will be forgiven for thinking you have the wrong place! This is a bistro really. tel. www. (+4) 021 318 28 54.16:00.and remember that this place itself is a living piece of the city’s history. Sorin Ilfoveanu and Mihai Cismaru. the last ones tasted great. For more details.inyourpocket. Covaci 19. tel. Old Town Cafes Atelier Cafe C-6. sit and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture yourself doing the same at home. where good wine by the glass is available next to a decent spread of simple (+4) 0752 44 08 18. By common consent the best antique shop in the city. is the Old Court Palace and Church: the very raison d’etre of the entire Old Town area. We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts we’ve seen so far here. QOpen 16:00 . Selari 7. QOpen 10:30 .com pubs and clubs than any other district in the with more restaurants. QOpen 12:00 . Covaci 3. ​Magnificent.brunowine. Smardan 13. Str.22:00. Fri. the area is nevertheless ground zero for entertainment and nightlife in Bucharest. MPiata French Bakery C-6. Stocks everything from furniture and paintings to clocks and decorations. tel. beer or cocktails in the bar: yep. Closed (+4) 021 317 17 41/(+4) 0757 55 72 a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest which has survived both the bombing of World War II and the bulldozers of Romania’s communist planners. When leaving the Old Town always be careful to take an honest taxi: see page 10 for more on taxis in Bucharest. with new pieces being added all the time. www. where you can enjoy an artistic coffee while browsing some fine contemporary Romanian art from the likes of Ion Silisteanu. P Bruno Wine & Coffee Shop C-6. www. www. tel. accessed via Strada Doamnei. Closed Sun. tel. Unirii. on the other side of which is the majestic Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse. with a regularly changing menu. MP-ta Unirii. it’s worth popping along to the Museum of Bucharest in the Sutu Palace before doubling back along Strada Ion Ghica until you get to the National Bank. www. (+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11. Not more than one kilometre square. Old Town Walk Getting there You can walk to the Old Town from most parts of the city centre. loaded with honey. a genuine French style Str. QOpen 07:30 . see the Old Town Sights listings from page with access for Begin your exploration of Old Town at the four statues in Piata Universitatii. Note that most of the Old Town’s streets are pedestrianised.souvenir-shop. PBSW Cafe Manuc C-6. Smardan 13. Upstairs you can even drink coffee. They also serve a fantastic jug of lemonade. Nicholas Students’ Church).and there is a huge range . Str.which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre) . Dumitru Old Court Palace & Church Baratiei Cocor Europa Royale Domnita Balasa Old Town .20:00.22:00. MPiata Unirii. Str. Head out on to Calea Victoriei to take a look at the Zlatari At the far end.a 19th century inn which in many ways has remained unchanged for over a century . PBSW Old Town Shops tate. It is described by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the north. Sit outside (when the weather allows) in the courtyard of this amazing building . Sat 12:00 .hanulluimanuc. in Piata Sf Anton. There is an underground car park at Piata Universitatii. MUniversi- Thomas Antiques C-6. (+4) 0722 32 25 40/(+4) 0723 65 55 84. Two metro stations serve the area: Piata Universitatii to the north and Piata Unirii to the south. and Strada Lipscani: the street whose name is often used to describe the whole Old Town area. Sat 10:30 . Taxis will usually drop you off at what is known as La Bariera (at the bottom end of Strada Selari) or at the National Bank.01:00.24:00. Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east. The Hanul Manuc is opposite.24:00. December 2013 . the river to the south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop . MUniversitate. Str. (+4) 021 316 10 27.’ We bought two. From here. complete with its fine selection of sand- Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Cafe and gallery.inyourpocket.

the New Zealand lamb chops tender. such as pasta. salad) of a French and Italian bent. well priced light meals (soups. MPiata Unirii. www. tel. tel. who also came up with the concept for Energiea. Its genius is that it’s ideal at every time of French Bon C-6.January 2014 Valea Regilor B-4. Box office open daily 12:00-19:00.godotcafeteatru. decent cocktails and reasonable prices. bistro and theatre on Strada Blanari in the Old Town. Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Vil- Old Town Restaurants: British The Barrel British Restaurant C-6. Smardan 33. They serve a great continental breakfast until 10am.and this Dutch owned. alongside the Norwegian cod fillet with chorizo and sweet peas. Str. The menu is certainly British The Artist Restaurant C-6. There’s some good simple food too. PSW Godot Cafe Teatru C-6. Sun 10:00 .vangogh.04:00. A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a venue. Top desserts. Dutch cheeses. pasta. www.02:00. but neither on tap. Sat 10:00 .ro. A Union Jack above the bar reminds you of the British connection.02:00. ro. chic without ever going over the top. QOpen 10:00 . tel. Also at (C-4) P-ta Lahovari 8. Sun 10:00 .simple and very reasonably priced . Smardan 27. www.bordellos. www. (+4) 021 311 29 69. and they now do a great brunch. those Turkish water pipes that offer an allegedly much healthier way to smoke tobacco. There is a wide range of dining options. tel. great coffee and a super terrace . tel. it is neither. Str. MPiata Unirii. Alongside the coffee and cakes . It is a brilliant restaurant serving delicious. a meal and a late night at the bar. Is it a cafe serving chocolate. who come here to talk big numbers over coffee and MUniversitate. There is another big. PGSW Les Bourgeois C-6. Selari 9-11. drink or just have one of over 30 (we counted) coffees Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. longing for something a bit different. Details about coming events from Bordello’s or the venue’s Facebook page.embassyhanulcutei. although if you hit the oysters and champagne of course the bill will be high! QOpen 12:30 . (+4) 021 313 93 15. meats. or restaurant serving drinks? We will go for the former. QOpen 07:30 . tel. Fri. The work of a young Dutch chef. Sat 10:00 . live music and theme parties and such like. Smardan 11. salads. www. In keeping with the food the restaurant itself is contemporary and upmarket. this is the sister establishment of the original Embassy on Piata Lahovari. QOpen 10:00 .01:00. the work of the designer du jour in this part of the world.74 OlD TOWN OlD TOWN 75 wiches.January 2. delicious tarts and cakes. Fabulous food in a wonderful setting. Smardan 20. yoghurts. NBSW you would expect from the people who run Bordello’s . They also have Newcastle Brown and Strongbow on Get in. Sat. PSW lacrosse). www. QOpen 09:30 . Nicolae Tonitza www. Calea Victoriei 12A. Sat. €€€ PSW Fine Dining Mulanruj Dining Theatre & Club C-6. Good cafe situated on the mezzanine floor of the Rembrandt hotel. Nice. from Shakespeare to Neil Simon and contemporary Romanian productions. The food is worthy of the surroundings: the onion soup with Gruyere is amazing. www. €€€ PESW Food & Drink Embassy Hanul cu Tei C-6. and a wide range of exotic teas. Str.24:00.24:00. (+4) 0748 88 10 85. Str. a mix of the bright and the .chocolat. whose longevity is a credit to its management who keep rethinking and reinventing the menu and making sure there is always good reason to come and eat. Prices reflect the amazing quality. Closed Mon.inyourpocket. tel. rezervari@ bordellos.24:00. Atelier Mecanic. can also get your hands on a Nargile. Something of a Bucharest legend now. Everyone will find something they like.24:00. MUniversitate. very good. cereals and freshly squeezed orange juice.rembrandt.giocafe. The restaurant offers a tasting menu for those who want to try all the main courses currently being served. Sat. ro. tel. Biutiful and La Bonne Bouche (to which it bears a passing resemblance). Amazing how quickly this place became the default Bucharest ‘meet you there’ venue. Non-smoking lounge open 17:00 . lesbourgeois.05:00. MPiata Unirii. PW Gio Cafe C-5. a business lunch at one of the wooden tables. offering fair Fish & Chips.thebarrel.24:00. tel. Even actors used to bigger stages make a habit of performing here in the uniquely intimate auditorium. too. a dinner and events venue where there is regular cabaret. omelettes: that kind of thing. (+4) 021 310 60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94. it is the only non-smoking cafe in the Old Town we hip clientele that comes for the good light meals .sweet and sickly but irresistible . or a chocolate shop serving a little coffee? In fact. €€€€ PSW Chocolat C-5. regardless of the time of day. There are performances every day (with matinees at weekends) of all sorts of plays. Str.bonrestaurant. Sun 12:00 -24:00.24:00. www. warm waffles are served with a choice of (+4) 0726 41 26 46. Closed Mon.01:00. Open 11:30-03:00. Also at (E-6) B-dul Burebista 2. stand-up comedy. Upstairs at Bordello’s is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre. QOpen 10:00 . Good hot chocolate. and the food . (+4) 0728 03 41 75. PBSW 316 16 82. PBSW (+4) 021 313 97 40. MPiata Unirii. Food as art: a first for Bucharest and a first for the right time of year of course . Sun 10:00 . office@thebarrel. giving way as the day moves on to a stylish. For those in the know. MUniversitate. There is chocolate December 2013 . (+4) 021 Klein Cafe C-6.theartist. Cafe. tel.23:00.24:00. Lipscani 63-65. Hard to pin this place down. Embassy is a terrace (in summer) and indoor lounge which serves food and drink to an older. always one of our favourite parts of Lipscani. (+4) 0728 31 88 71. QOpen 12:00 . Sat.outside on the sexiest part of Old The menu changes with the Shepherd’s Pie and jacket spuds amongst much else. Fri 08:30 . Closed December 23 . This good Smardan venue has far more the feel of a pub than anything else. www.24:00. day: morning coffee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows. friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more than once. QOpen 19:00 . Str.24:00. Sun 08:00 . there is plenty to choose from: so much in fact that making individual recommendations is pointless. Could be just about the best place in Bucharest for coffee. muffins. created using antique doors and window frames. MUniversi- tate. meeting and function rooms upstairs. www. (+4) 0730 03 07 64. Good bistro food. Sun 09:00 . Str. but there is plenty of food on offer. vibrant Gio Cafe on P-ta Alba Iulia. (+4) 021 367 21 98/(+4) 0721 37 56 22. There is also a specialist wine bar downstairs. Open 09:00 . €€€€ PW Prices are reasonable given the quality. tel. and the mussels fresh. Thick Turkish coffee served in one of Calea Victoriei’s grand old passages. Str. www. with a vast selection of croissants. Q Open 07:00 .24:00. while throughout the rest of the day fresh.pasta. tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03.and a cracking list of cocktails. The food is good . Blanari 14. and feature plenty of top local acting talent. €€€ PEW Grand Cafe Van Gogh C-6. soups and the like . QOpen 09:00 .03:00. Toma Caragiu 3. wiser and simply nicer crowd than many other places we could mention in Old Town. this is a perennially popular cafe that hosts business types in the mornings. Making very good use of the courtyard of Hanul cu Tei.24:00. Pub serving food. QOpen 08:30 . on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00. this amazing restaurant is set to be a massive hit with the city’s foodies. (+4) 031 107 63 71. QOpen 12:00 . and the grilled scallops with roasted cauliflower is probably our pick of the current menu. MPiata Unirii. A highly recommendable experience. Str. Smardan 9. Sat.

Down in the basement there is a club. A good Italian restaurant. QOpen 12:00 . not least the lemon merengue pie.inyourpocket. tel. New Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving what might just be the best lentil soup in Str. MPiata Bel Mondo C-6. is good if a little pricey (some of the dishes. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous menu (the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes and cheese are musts). light and blessed with sensationally high ceilings. MPiata Unirii. a magnificent burger.02:00. www. tel. Making fantastic use of a gorgeous old building on Strada Covaci. €€€ PSW La Bonne Bouche C-6. The food is decent. quick and friendly. Decent Italian food (there is a small but good selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out for). Franceza 62. The non-pizza menu is merely good. MPiata Unirii. and loved it all. Sat 12:00 .ro.stgeorge. Covaci 16. light Californian-inspired cuisine. Some of the finest food in Old Town. 1st floor. QOpen 08:00 .alsaj. Go there. QOpen 10:00 . Inside it is a welldecorated and comfortable venue. The house red is a drinkable bargain. www. the kafta kebab and the marinated lamb cutlets. well worth trying. Baneasa Shopping Center. Nicolae Tonita 6. €€€ PVSW Vecchio 1812 C-6. served in one of the most elegant and classiest locations around.23:30. alongside a decent selection of grilled meat and vegetables.makes the best pizza in Bucharest.charme. Str. Fri. MPiata Unirii. (+4) 0722 25 93 60. www. Afi Palace Cotroceni.24:00.Q Open 12:00 24:00. worthy of your well as more kinds of gourmet bread than we could possibly list. (+4) 0758 66 05 00. Sat 10:00 . Sun open 24hrs. love the attitude. Check out the nice little touches such as high quality bread and olives. tel. MPiata Unirii. tel. Try the sublime onion soup.we recommend the fresh tomato soup with mozarella .and a wine list that offers the very best Hungary’s vineyards have to offer. QOpen 12:00 . Looks more like a pub from outside. Sat 11:00 . Herăstrău 2. Admirable. Does exactly what the name suggests: serves great steaks to customers who like their meat cooked to order. Note that they accept Amex cards: not everywhere does in €€ PSW Unirii. There’s superb antipasti . MPiata Unirii. Franceza 30. QOpen 12:00 . (+4) 0756 60 00 00. Sat 08:00 . Str. and while prices are not cheap they certainly reflect quality. We liked the comfy chairs. being especially impressed by the lahme bahjeen (minced beef and lamb in pitta bread). Also at (B-3) Str. Not the world’s greatest Tex-Mex food. this Italian restaurant looks and feels like the kind of place you want spend all evening in. heated. complete with karaoke.labonita. €€€ PBSW OlD TOWN Maccheroni 77 Trattoria Buongiorno C-6. Str.01:30. QOpen 12:00 . QOpen 11:00 . one of the better ones in the Old Town. €€€€ PESW the latest premiere. but in a city which has very few Mexican restaurants worth your time. www. Live music is provided by a happy. Find it next to Caru cu Bere. Does what it does .ilpeccato. Franceză 44. Hungarian 021 317 10 87. QOpen 10:00 .loads of it . www. maccheroni. €€€ PVSW Italian Bellini C-5. anyway). Cracking open a bottle of T okaji Aszu is the perfect way to end an evening here. Lipscani 19. www. €€ PEBSW La Bonita Manuc Levantin C-6. calves liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon meringue pie. Love the name. and there is more than just classic steaks (like the Rib-Eye): there are great baby back ribs too. It’s a winner from start to finish. tel. tel. Really. It’s the location and people-watching spot you will come for. €€ PBSW tel.if you still have room after a big meaty feast . Has an excellent selection of Italian wines and is a great place to sit and enjoy a decent bottle or two. the high ceilings and airy atmosphere. then order some fine. Also at (B-2) Str. The jacket potatoes in a salt crust are one of the best (and most original) starters we have ever tasted in Bucharest. Str.04:00. MPiata Unirii.23:00. (+4) 0733 11 04 64. €€€ PSW Mediterranean Charme C-6. Good Lebanese food. Roman cuisine served in superb surroundings in the Old Town. tel. tel. a place that had the vision to open up a good year or two before Old Town became fashionable.mezetaverna. Covaci 1. (+4) 021 539 53 53. An open kitchen is always a good sign.January 2014 Sindbad C-6. Str.labonnebouche. Str. (+4) 0737 50 38 90. (And at weekends. tel. and it’s difficult to go wrong: we ordered a load of food.redangus. The food is superior Italian. and the desserts . We love tel.23:30. Str. tel. (+4) 0721 76 55 55.and the pasta is freshly made here. (+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11. www. Just a brilliantly simple place. Fri.while the food itself is seriously. tel. www.simple French bistro food .vecchio1812. QOpen 11:00 . www. €€€ PESW St. prices that are more than reasonable. Another excellent Greek Franceza 52. table wandering troupe every night. (+4) 0731 24 78 76. MPiata Unirii. (+4) 021 317 77 88. MPiata Unirii. the city’s last surviving caravanserai. MPiata Unirii. Easily the best occupant of the old Amsterdam Cafe location since Amsterdam itself. Packed out with the pre-cinema crowd heading over to Cinema Pro for Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. and the decor is vaguely Middle Eastern without over-doing it. Fabulous fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent range of mutton dishes as main courses. it can feel like the whole city is going by).try the mutton stew with dumplings . MPiata of course .01:00. QOpen 12:00 . MUniversitate. so ask your waiter what’s cooking. tel. www. www. (+4) 021 230 23 83. QOpen 08:30 . and have quickly become big fans of its most recent location in the Old Town. Fri. featuring a wealth great dishes .ro. Str. serving standard Italian food of the pizza. The pizzas are excellent (and huge) and the space itself is big. Franceza Str. Smardan 12.better than anywhere else in the city. from the US to New Zealand.we love the lampshades made from empty olive oil cans .ro.inyourpocket. €€€€ PBSW Greek Meze Taverna C-6. seriously good. and in fact it is both pub and restaurant. Look for the chef’s specials too.24:00. tel. €€€ PBSW Al Saj Mexican / Tex Mex C-6. George bucharest. Well priced too.24:00. and one of the biggest and busiest terraces in Bucharest (at the right time of year) make it a seriously good eat and watch the world go by type place.02:00. MUniversitate. There is a huge range of dishes to choose from.01:00. Sat. Str. www. Franceza 30. €€€ PESW Lebanese C-6. QOpen 10:00 . The menu is big on seafood and fish. Ion Ghica 2. Georgios. MPiata Unirii. There’s both an exterior (at the right time of year) and interior terrace. glassed-in terrace which means you can eat al fresco even while it’s snowing outside. €€€ PVESW December 2013 .04:00. The food is Italian. Str.24:00. is always coming up with tasty daily specials. fairly standard Lebanese fare.restaurantsindbad. hanulluimanuc. QOpen 11:00 .according to just about anybody you ask . with food on the ground and first Covaci 6. tel. MUniversitate. Good wine list too and prices are OK. (+4) Steak Red Angus Steakhouse C-6. The steaks come from all over the world. QOpen 12:00 . (+4) 021 311 90 52/(+4) 0786 03 77 73. Worth a look. and we love the variety of reading material in the toilets.2:00. Radu Beller 13. Thu. (+4) 0730 60 88 88 €€€ PSW Unirii. Selari 10. this place should be on your list. It’s the venue that brings the punters in: a big. Selari 24. It shouldn’t take too long to find this place: it is the restaurant with a motorbike in a glass display box parked outside. as you would expect from one of the city’s best (B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56. Bellini has a great location and . open. Franceza 56.01:00. Q Open 10:30 . www. QOpen 11:00 24:30. (+4) 0754 02 04 34.everything is made with original produce shipped in from Rome . tel. The chef. authentic Hungarian cuisine. pasta variety. no worse or better than the many other Middle Eastern eateries in the area.76 OlD TOWN C-6. It is actually a five-level extravaganza of a We have always loved T rattoria Buongiorno. drinks on the second and a terrace on the top. Fri.24:00. Str. It even looks the part . €€€ PESW Il Peccato C-6. (+4) 021 310 90 13. upstairs at Hanul lui Manuc. The pizzas are good and cheap though. (+4) 0725 96 66 36. www. The Greek burger is a nice treat too. which offers decent food . alongside what is some of the best lamb we’ve eaten in Bucharest. And they have a children’s menu. the kind of place you can eat very well but nobody minds if you just spend all night on the sauce. €€€ PSW Coco Bongo C-6. This has long been one of our favourite restaurants. (+4) 0727 84 68 02 and Baneasa Shoping City. (+4) 031 430 95 77. and the service good. The food is excellent.

(+4) 021 313 14 11. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from the ceiling: all different. QOpen 11:00 . (+4) Old Town Bars Absintherie Sixtina C-6. Sit in the gorgeous courtyard (when the weather allows. On the second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good long bar. back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad) and there is a terrace in summer. We like the carnati de plescoi. Str. the food is good: a selection of traditional Romanian dishes with a big focus on game. Lipscani Good bistro food too. Serves a huge range of beers (it’s run by the same people as 100 Beers around the corner) and exotic drinks. everything comes at very reasonable prices. Unique. Drinks and coffees are reasonably priced. tel. with the recent opening of a few other decent places is quickly becoming the new Lipscani street-to-be. and fortunately the food is more than a match for the surroundings. Str. the local speciality. Add in a brilliant range of sausages (weisswurst. Eugen Carada 5-7.inyourpocket.berariahanulcutei.23:00. www. (+4) 0722 10 01 93. The idea behind this place was to create a wine bar where anyone . the sarmale with mamaliga terrific. lively atmosphere and regular crowd of beer drinkers out for a good time and not to pose. which comes complete with a natty water dispenser. PNW (+4) 021 311 22 65. tel. Fri. The well-priced food is good value Turkish/Middle Eastern. PW 0727 57 13 71.corks. From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to the great service. QOpen 16:00 .ro. (+4) 021 224 50 17. Bacani 1. tel. MPiata Unirii. Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. (+4) 021 312 30 34. Something very different and original comes to Old Town. tel.02:00. MPiata Unirii. Smardan 11. Nice little wine bar tucked away on an Old Town side street which quickly won itself a handy following of admirers and regulars. and the mixed grill for two people is good value. (+4) 021 313 75 60/(+4) 0726 28 23 73. of course) and enjoy a beer or good Romanian food: don’t miss the mici. Str. tel.rembrandt.thedivan. comfortable and not be intimidated. Should probably be the first stop on the food and drink list of any visitor to Bucharest. tel. The home baked bread is always served warm (if it is not. tasty treat. simple flavours you are going to love this place. www.January 2014 . The prices are decent enough and though a little spartanly furnished and decorated the ambience is good: you want to stay way after you have finished your meal.02:00. Str. It’s an 18-hole crazy-golf course. Str. The name means Bicycle. Stavropoleos 5. MPiata Unirii. (+4) 0733 15 98 46. Don’t expect haute Find it under the Europa Royale Hotel. with a wide variety of daily specials. Romanian poet. Almost all of them are available by the glass. it’s a total success. The service is usually good (now: it never used to be. Beer (more than 40 kinds). It’s the kind of place where you will be discretely but contentedly loosening your belt before the night is done. Brilliant for families during the day. QOpen 12:00 . www. MPiata Unirii. that’s when we think it’s at its best) upstairs at Covaci 6. Lipscani 63-65. Covaci 6. and it will not take you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished and decorated with parts of old bicycles. www. tasty smoked sausages made with mutton and Recently renovated. They will even cook you a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. affairs and anything else that springs to mind.24:00. (+4) 0735 61 62 98.hanulluimanuc. QOpen 10:00 02:00. offering as it does a vast range of wines from across the world. €€€ PBSW City Grill C-6. In a superb new setting in a lovingly renovated building on the edge of Old Town the Bucharest cooking legend Jakob Hausmann is still delivering the goods more than a decade after opening his first restaurant. with added cafe. (+4) 021 310 35 66. and like the hotel itself. It really is the definitive answer to the perennial ‘What shall we do tonight?’ question.01:00. and the location at the edge of Bucharest’s newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a favourite for those looking for something just a little more restful. Sat 18:00 . You will like this place. There’s a good selection of local beers to choose from Str.23:00. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and many other locations. but there is much more besides.04:00. and at the weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly rocks. Franceza 62. decked out with wood and boasting perhaps the comfiest chairs of any pub in the city. You can expect right royal portions of all your Romanian favourites. Late-night bar (well. plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats) and a couple of leather sofas for those who want something a bit more comfortable.24:00. Str. PSW 021 310 64 69. proper tall bar stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to chill. Selari 1.02:00. Even acts as an ad hoc Tourist Info Centre. An excellent place for a livener or two. MUniversitate.painted ceilings.the other is in Albania). €€€ PEBSW Beraria Kovaci C-6. If you are a foodie who cares about subtle.78 OlD TOWN Swiss Mica Elvetie St.05:00. A cosy little speakeasy in a well-hidden location (find it in the alleyway which links Str. but do expect big portions of simple Romanian food.inyourpocket. QOpen 12:00 . Also at (C-2) Calea Floreasca 111-113. the staff are friendly and it’s worth checking out: if only to show off to someone just how well you know Bucharest and its MPiata MPiata Unirii. Thu. this is Romanian food of indeed historic proportions.citygrill. Serves breakfast. at night grab a group of mates and get down here for a game of golf and a few beers. tel. send it back) and the wine flows copiously as evenings get longer and A look at the wine list will be enough to tell you why. www. QOpen 10:00 . Str.02:00. tel. Kind of: the lights are all fluorescent and futuristic. MPiata (+4) C-6. QOpen 10:00 . Sun 14:00 . (+4) 021 313 93 15. com. QOpen 13:00 . Closed Sun. A nice long bar. Bucharest’s oldest inn (and one of only two surviving 19th century caravanserai in Europe . Fri. www. Mon 18:00 . (+4) Interbelic C-6. Blanari to Str.golfplanet. PW Golf Planet C-6. including absinthe. We opted for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Polish bangers and local mici) and it starts to get very difficult not to call this the best pub in Old Town. Str. Fri. PNW Klein Bar & Bistro C-6. bratwurst. Selari 13-15. Also at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3. refreshingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these days.24:00.would feel welcome. Str. PESW Beraria Hanul Cu Tei C-6. PSW Entourage Centrul Vechi C-6. Sat. As much a showcase for the (very good) wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as anything else. Coffee by day and cocktails by night is the order of things. QOpen 12:30 . Sat 16:00 . Sat 08:00 . (+4) 0722 93 79 72. MUniversitate.carucubere. Sat 13:00 . PGW For even more Bucharest restaurants see pages 40-57 Bucharest In Your Pocket MUniversitate. We rather liked the baked duck served with stewed cabbage. Beraria Kovaci is a sweet little place. from spare ribs and mutton to tender pork steaks. Fri. it would be easy to nominate this place as the best pub in the Old Town. Str.Q Open 08:00 . QOpen 14:00 . tel.23:00. www.24:00. It’s a great place to enjoy a drink with friends. tel. €€€ PESW Manuc Bistro C-6. tel. Fri. hello@corks. Tour de France? Tour de force. €€€ PESW 0729 62 62 62. They even serve their own rather good beer. QOpen 12:00 . PW Bicicleta Crama Domneasca C-6. €€ PVEBSW 79 Turkish Divan C-6.interbelic. €€€ PBW OlD TOWN Romanian Restaurants in Old Town Caru’ cu Bere C-6. the place itself looks better than ever too. €€ PVESW Lacrimi si Sfinti C-6. MPiata Unirii.02:00. Str. but do not leave without trying some food. December 2013 . tel. all based around the season’s freshly available ingredients. The orange and chocolate cake is the pick of the desserts. QOpen 14:00 . Halelor tel. QOpen 18:00 .02:00. Sat 14:00 . And when we tell you there is live music from a resident band at the weekends you will know you need to go there immediately. www. tel. Fri. revolutionary and raconteur Mircea Dinescu’s latest culinary adventure is this classy place in the Old Town. The menu changes regularly. Sat 08:00 . And it is all in the dark.’ and given the homely food and cheap prices (the lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable) they might just be right. (We should add that you are under no compulsion to play golf: you are welcome to watch everybody else try). and the baked apple a simple. In that regard. Franceza 46-48. Wonderful interiors . www. tel. tel. Sun 08:00 . Very good they were too.02:00. Fri. very good pizza and fair bit else besides in a rather nice setting on Strada Covaci. They call these places ‘your dining room in the city. QOpen 07:00 . MPiata Unirii. MUniversitate. and it’s very good indeed. (+4) 0372 77 39 99.lacrimisisfinti. Lipscani 12. MPiata Unirii. The breakfast is worth getting up early for.micaelvetie. QOpen 08:00 . www. www. Covaci 3. www. ornate woodwork .24:00. We should also mention the touristy but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes place most evenings. tel.01:00. Sepcari 16. Nowhere else in the city can rival the setting. (+4) 021 312 05 52/(+4) 0722 80 01 86.24:00. Str. Moritz Str. Str. matter how little they know about wine . lunch and dinner from one of the best bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on it you fancy. Franceza 60. which. cocktail bar and comfy sofas. With its big long bar. Lipscani) and the perfect place to conduct all sorts of secret business. Drinks are well priced and service comes with a smile.02:00. Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt Corks Cozy Bar Str. Sun 13:00 . Right in the heart of Bucharest’s historic centre. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe: there’s a huge range of flavours to choose from.berariakovaci. Sun 10:00 . Startlingly brilliant place.make the place an attraction in itself.02:00.

€€ PSW Revenge C-6. Str.thomas-antiques.January 2014 Bucharest In Your Pocket . Basically there are two parts to this place: upstairs is the cafe (serving hot milk: our kids liked it!) and downstairs is the club. A cocktail bar (there is beer too. MPiata Unirii. Str. Regular events too.thebazaar. It’s not every day you see a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar. Boasting one of the best selections of exotic coffees in the city (try the After Dinner Mint). but then walked on having failed to grasp what it actually is. PBW Rehab Bar C-6. tel. Expect drinks. Next to the Caruta cu paiate is a seated bronze of Nenea Iancu . Lipscani 38. Sat 14:00 . as well as hundreds of teas) where everything has been thought out to the minutest detail.04:00. Pasajul Vilacrosse. tel. Str. (+4) 0722 52 80 40. (+4) 0722 77 76 74/(+4) 021 314 50 66. on tap. Fri.24:00. Covaci 10. (+4) 0727 25 70 22. It is at first glance a lot like a certain other bar we will not name (packed with odd chairs. QOpen 10:00 . except in Bucharest. Tiny. bucharest. MUniversitate. Add in the fact that it is a bit bigger than many Old Town bars and that late on a Friday you stand a chance of getting in the door and you have a top place. (+4) 0767 23 33 35. For added quirkiness you get the bill in a sample bottle.06:00. MPiata Unirii. We love the red lamps hanging down over the (long) bar.orientexpressbarbistro. QOpen 10:00 . Covaci 19. Sat 17:00 . www. Str. Stavropoleos 8. tea house and bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate (or something stronger) while discussing the merits of the goods you’ve been admiring. MPiata Unirii. Fun and sunshine. With brews from all over the world you could drink a different beer every night for a month and not try the same one twice.05:00. Barbero C-6. admired it. DJ bar and deadly serious club. PW Papiota C-6. it’s worth seeking out. Smardan 37. Intr. This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly named. so you get your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical flask. Str. tel. www. MUniversitate.inyourpocket. good coffee and mixes its cocktails well. www. QOpen 17:00 .02:00. www. MUniversitate.03:00. Str. and so on) and was unveiled in December 2010. Fri. of course. Lipscani lively pub playing decent music and offering a vibe a little more upmarket than most other places in the Old Town (especially those in and around this little alleyway). Add in a casually-dressed.2:00. We were not convinced on our first visit. One of Bucharest’s genuine hidden gems. supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. PNW and industrial bits and bobs). (+4) Thomas Antiques Bar C-6. On one of Old Town’s less-crowded streets this is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. QOpen 14:00 . Sun 11:00 . In front of the National Theatre. www. QOpen 17:00 03:00. MPiata Unirii. it hardly matters that you might not like what’s playing: you will not have to wait long to hear an old favourite. good food. but what most impressed us were the big salads. sports and regular cultural events. besides the beer they also have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great attention to details. Music is loungesque. QOpen 12:00 .cafebaropendoor. and offers the usual mix of coffee. (+4) 0721 99 99 99. Ion Luca Caragiale. www. The cafe is open from (around) 10am. Str. MPiata Unirii. cocktails and smoothies.beeroclock. the bronze Caruta cu paiate was created by sculptor Ioan Bolborea in honour of Romania’s favourite playwright. One more reason to hail Strada Smardan as the new Messiah of nightlife tel. MUniversitate. ing tea on an antique chair you might end up taking home. an in-the-know crowd and fine views over Piata Beer O’Clock C-6.Caragiale himself. non-fitze crowd and you have a winner. Club Tropicana. Fri. and though it can get awfully smoky when it is busy. PESW Old Town Pubs Arcade Cafe C-6. from string quartets to book launches and the like. The whole place is brightly tiled and done in the style of an old barber’s shop (as the name might suggest). You can therefore really impress people with your inside knowledge of Bucharest by bringing them here. PW The Drunken Lords C-6. (+4) 0752 44 08 18. Sat 12:00 . MUniversitate. What’s more. An Old Town bar has to be a bit different these days to grab our attention: Rehab is just that. Selari 9-11. Str. Nae Catavencu. usually provided by a DJ. ro. tel.02:00. Open Door is something a bit different for the Old Town area. Covaci 8.revenge.papiota. With cushions on wooden steps making impromptu seats and a sofa at the window. but given that it had just opened that’s hardly a surprise.05:00. and well priced drinks. It also has lots of big windows. It’s the kind of place you see anywhere and everywhere. On our second visit however we found a good. Smardan 30. Chances are you’ve seen this statue. MUniversitate. (+4) 0722 55 55 05.80 OlD TOWN OlD TOWN 81 Laboratorul de Cocktailuri C-6. The drinks menu is done in the style of a medical journal.07:00. Centrally located in front of Romania’s National Theatre (which is currently being rebuilt). Thu. It’s alright this place. QOpen 10:00 . they have even invested in decent bar stools.thedrunkenlords. Str. Selari 3-5. with only a few places to sit.02:30. Good music.arcadecafe. PW Orient Express Bar Bistro C-6. tel. PNW Silk Sky Bar C-5. www. though the music is always at the right volume and never stifles conversation. but without the hipster attitude. Serves a decent pint. Trendy without overdoing it. C-6. it’s just very different and highly welcome. Papiota is one of our favourite Bucharest bars. tel.24:00. Str. designed to look like old hair dryers. what venue in Bucharest doesn’t? QOpen 12:00 . A mix of everything from the sublime to the ridiculous. neither are there too many places in Old Town as big as this: there’s upstairs (complete with comfy armchairs). the drinks are reasonably well priced (this is Old Town) and the music is clubby without over. (+4) 0722 33 12 Gabroveni This little place is a cool mix of cafe. A Lipscani bar that we liked the moment we first walked in. MUniversitate. it’s worth reserving if you want to be sure December 2013 . Unusually.(or under-) doing it.22:00. QOpen 14:00 . Pub and bistro of not enormous proportions on Smardan. Ion Nistor 4 (Z Boutique Hotel). T ache Farfuridi. tel. Hosts live music. and on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to the street outside. QOpen 12:00 . The name means Cocktail Factory. downstairs. QOpen 10:00 . Commendable. Fri. (+4) 0736 23 88 15. Until now. Not easy to find. It was unveiled in December 2010. (+4) 021 367 27 77. QOpen 12:00 . (+4) 021 310 78 11. On the top floor of the itself rather discrete Z Boutique Hotel you are unlikely to see this place in passing: you need to know about it in advance.05:30. Sat. Above the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe. PW Open Door (+4) 0726 12 25 52. MPiata Unirii. tea. or what it signifies. Fri 10:00 .09:00. tables The Bazaar C-6. There’s nothing quite like takbucharest. Closed Sun.5:00. Sat 17:00 . while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Sat. www. tel. Sun 14:00 . (+4) 0725 92 75 07. The photos of the eponymous train (and a map of its original route) on the walls kept son of In Your Pocket happy for an hour.inyourpocket. It is the music that we like best about this pub and club in the heart of the Lipscani area. not 20 yards from the Bucharest InterContinental Hotel. PESW 0767 50 80 80. PW Caruta cu Paiate Caruta cu Paiate C-5. Best place to sit is upstairs. The statue features characters from Caragiale’s plays (Domnul Goe. Str. MPiata Unirii. tel.

Str. Wed 13:00 . Top draught beer selection too. this is a one-stop shop for great nights out. Nice long. once through the door you are in a world of great music and well-priced . Sat 18:00 . Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints. Covaci 8. You will find the crowd more local than foreign . tel. tel. Serves very good cocktails (a sweet as you like mojito went down very well with Mrs.06:00. creating a rather special atmosphere rather like an upmarket.salads. From quiz nights and live music to the burlesque every Friday night. colourful bar and club that puts on something different every night of the week. looking at the menu they have considerably more than 100 beers. Lipscani 45. Now only a few survive and no less than four bars have opened here. complete with a smoky atmosphere and a vast range of live acts who regularly play here. A must visit for either drinks or food. it’s a real pub all right with decent pub grub. Fri. The burger was great: try it with the roast potatoes in fresh rosemary for something a bit different. QOpen 15:00 . and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for those who don’t fancy a beer. whether it’s football on the television or impromptu drinking competitions. We prefer the tiny original. MUniversitate.05:00. N St. including the ribs which are just about the best we’ve ever had in Bucharest. (+4) 0724 67 11 08/(+4) 0744 52 01 49. MPiata Unirii. Gabroveni 55. an enormous industrial-chic space with a little added glamour (check out the lights and the comfy sofas). PSW 0724 23 95 77. from all over the world. Though it looks less than inviting from outside. Str. Note: there is now a much bigger Beer O’Clock on Strada Gabroveni further down in Old Town. MPiata Unirii. MPiata Unirii. tel. after that it’s first come first served. (+4) 021 313 75 32.01:00. PESW Old City C-6. Q Open 24hrs. Sun 12:00 .ro. Smardan 23-25. Patrick C-6. Look Old Town Jazz Big Mamou Club C-6. QOpen 12:00 .ro.bar_garden@ yahoo. live Irish music on some evenings and a grand welcome from some fine staff: all of which make this very much the thinking man’s Irish pub in Bucharest. Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. alongside one of the tastiest pork knuckles you will eat in this city. tel.06:00.00:00. Sun 19:00 . This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor (Brewers’ Courtyard).05:00. fewer than seven kinds of and besides the beer and cocktails there is food if you’re you would expect for a Russian-themed placed . At the end of a well-marked passageway on Strada Gabroveni is this place. PEB (+4) 021 313 03 36. (+4) 0784 24 60 46. Gabroveni 4. with live cabaret most nights. you will see where the name comes from: it is indeed biutiful. MPiata Unirii. tapas and burgers . Open 17:00 . The owners try to make something happen every night.oktoberfest-pub. PESW Sappho Pub & Garden C-6. www.especially glassmakers .00:00. tel.04:00. (+4) 0724 33 32 33. Also at (C-6) Str. Set around a sunken courtyard just off Strada Covaci Sappho boasts a large terrace (which is great in good weather) and cavernous interior (which has various rooms. QOpen 10:00 . Str. PBW Sankt Petersburg Pub C-6. In Your Pocket) and some pub grub that is far better than you would assume. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2. Looking every inch just like a proper Irish boozer. You can’t miss this place by the way: just look for the ‘tarts’ in their underwear beckoning you in. Big. (+4) 0737 29 72 97. www. Str.02:00. Definitely a first in Bucharest! QOpen 12:00 04:00. tel. Good pub on Lipscani with a huge beer garden out the back.02:00. www. (+4) 0729 37 77 74. At the weekends.oldcity-lipscani. QOpen 18:00 . (+4) 0754 25 33 A big. Fri 12:00 . PVSW O’Hara’s C-6. Str. www.never a bad thing . Selari 14. The house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass. PNBW Bordello’s There is always something going on here. The food is great.03:00. a bright. The name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers. (+4) 021 311 89 68/(+4) 0729 19 18 55. Tue. and that’s exactly what they have here: beer. (+4) 0748 88 10 86. tel. www. and more than efficient staff who ensure you do not have to wait long for a drink.01:00. though there is no brewing done on the site.biutiful.from whence the name. and note that upstairs is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre. Splaiul Independentei 2B. of which the default option is Timisoreana. (+4) 0748 88 10 85. www.05:00.and ordinary ‘out for a drink and a good time’ locals at that.01:00. Mon 17:00 . Oxtail stew and the chocolate and Guinness mousse were the other stand-out dished we tried. In fact. Str.02:00. MPiata Unirii.05:00. Re:Public is the best thing to happen to the Old Town in many a day. PBW Re:Public Brasserie C-6. Sun 14:00 .ro. Fri 11:00 . Besides the long cocktail list there are also . MPiata PESW La 100 de Beri C-6. English-style bar. QOpen 12:00 . In a city that is hardly awash with live jazz clubs. tel. Murphy’s and Paulaner on tap and Sky Sports on four screens. QOpen 12:00 . every night of the week.sanktpetersburgpub. Sat 14:00 . Expect a decent pint of Guinness. Selari 9-11. Gabroveni 6-8. Str. MPiata Unirii.therepublic.bordellos. it’s a party-central kind of place with a top selection of beer. and lots of it. sappho. Franceza 13. head downstairs to the Boudoir. bold venue which both looks and feels just right. tel.24:00. contemporary central London bar and grill. www.bigmamou. Sat 14:00 . Sun 14:00 . www. A big screen shows football and the like. The club Octopus is also inside (on the ground floor). Hosts live music and various party nights. Str. QOpen 13:00 . this place is now something of a legend. Note that they only take reservations up to 19:00.with the beef and horseradish sandwich a confirmed winner. Soarelui 3. Fri. MPiata Unirii. There’s Heineken. Str. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. QOpen 11:00 . There are top German sausages for a start (including currywurst). It is everything a good jazz and blues club should be.02:00. The food is more than decent .04:00.inyourpocket. MPIata Unirii. QOpen 16:00 . MPiata Unirii. Sat 12:00 . Selari 9-11. but better. QOpen 12:00 . Irish pubs. (+4) Biutiful C-6. live music downstairs in the Bierhalle and some very good bistro food.curteaberarilor. PBSW tel.82 OlD TOWN of a seat. The fish and chips wasn’t bad either. PENBSW Oktoberfest C-6. Mon. tel. all differently themed). Selari 9 -11. with some rather special tapas. One of the city’s smaller. well located Irish pub in the Old Town area: it really sets the standard for the many others in the area. which has a small terrace. MPiata Unirii. When you walk and they even serve caviar pancakes.02:00. tel. NEW Curtea Berarilor C-6. Once upon a time the whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans . What makes this place so special is how very ordinary it is. preferably both.01:00. not the fitze crowd. Str.

Gabroveni 14. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd of the young and PBSW The house drink is of course Finlandia vodka.05:00. www.23:00.23:00. QOpen 09:00 . There are a lot of things to like about this place. (+4) 0722 33 41 41. Thu. Fri. MPiata Unirii. MPiata QOpen 13:30 . PEW Old Town Clubs & Discos 0723 20 34 63. Leffe and Beck’s on tap. cheerful delivery chaps and terrific pizza (if you choose the thin and crispy base. QOpen 10:00 . www. and then some. Fri 12:00 . MPiata Unirii/Universitate. Cheapish drinks. Str. There’s an IPA. wine. PBW OlD TOWN 85 The Pub . On the ground floor is the pub. Selling the cheapest beer in the Old Town. Bucharest In Your Pocket Orasul Interzis D-5. MPiata Unirii. tel. ro.the-address. Selari). Drinks are reasonably priced for the area and to be honest you could do a lot worse. Fri 20:00 . a night of disco classics. The music .thevintagepub. Quirky and cool. A little more chic and upmarket than most other places in the Old Town. Downstairs at Re:Public is the Bierhalle. Str Lipscani 53. tel. Top PLVBSW For even more Bucharest nightlife see pages 60-63 bucharest. it could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu spinning his old school electro tunes. Silvestru 3. Impressive.mojomusic.05:00.inyourpocket. PSW Restaurant Nan Jing Selari (+4) 0733 50 07 50/(+4) 0720 99 33 33. who have a track record of delivering the goods). www. That’s the kind of place this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash and out-of-your-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a down-to-earth. champagne and beer. VN Jerry’s D-6. Hoegaarden. available in more varieties than you ever thought Great prices.05:30. Str. Now get there and enjoy sound cocktails. which can afford the prices of the drinks. tel.orasul-interzis. the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and the manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice to his customers. (+4) 0728 84 37 82. for a start. We love the (long) nights we spend in this place. Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is really what it is called. tel. Tue. com/club. A Bucharest first. while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is live music.jerryspizza.lamuse. Patrick Party Room on the other side of the street: a kind of mini-St. Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of them to choose from. When ace local bands are not playing. Fri 12:00 06:00. Also now puts on regular quiz nights and live British stand-up comedy too. salads.fabiopizza. tel. Str. as well as all sorts of events during the week. Currently our favourite home-delivery pizza company. baza subtire in Romanian). pizza and decent salads: and note you can enjoy it all at proper. (+4) 0732 16 66 04. Three level extravaganza of a venue. The biggest. this is a cocktail bar and club where the mood is different every night. NEW tel. Smooth people.finnish. but there is more to this place than vodka: cocktails. up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to classic songs that you won’t have heard for Fri. tel. Club A C-6. trueclub.05:00.06:00. www. Hot chicken wings. big wooden tables. PEBW The Address Club & Lounge C-6. boldest place on Strada Smardan. (+4) 0748 88 10 86.04:00.04:00. (+4) 0743 79 71 73. (+4) 021 311 21 21. MPiata Unirii. QOpen .06:00. MUniversitate. Str. With big long tables in classic beerhall style there are usually enough seats to keep punters happy. QOpen 16:00 . Thu. with the walls stripped back to the red as contemporary and as good as the design. Fri. Smardan 24. Str. Just head to their website for the full home delivery menu. tel.04:00.05:00. OlD TOWN out for the St. Gabroveni 12. while on the beer front there is Fri. PNBSW La Muse C-6.03:00. Not bad at all. www. Str. tel. and to be honest it is as good as ever.01:00. QOpen 20:00 . an exclusively live music venue well worthy of your time (it’s owned and run by two legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene. Smooth. Sun 24:00-04:00.05:00. tel.therepublic. but at the weekend you will do well to reserve: it can get very busy. Sat. Home delivery arm of the excellent Chinese restaurant of same name. Last time we popped in we met up with almost everyone we know in Bucharest. unpretentious. every night of the week. tel. Lipscani 28. Q Open 22:00 - True Social Club C-6. Jerry’s at Night Open 23:00 .05:00. There are wings. Tue. PEW (+4) 0723 19 99 77. . come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere. QOpen 18:00 . Wed. Friendly delivery boys in our experience: always worth an extra mark. Chances are you will enjoy yourself. Str. Though still delivering good pizza. www. and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually means that there is always something here for everyone. not least because you never know what to expect on the music front: it could be a night of pop.thepubro. QOpen 12:00 . Sat 14:00 . There is also now Fire Pub out the back (although the entrance is from Strada Covaci): a small yet rather good boozer with a huge and very nice covered terrace/atrium.Universitatii C-5. this place is a legend. Sat 16:00 . Sun 16:00 . MPiata Regardless of what is going on you will probably enjoy it. MUniversitate. rezervari@orasulinterzis. Sat 22:00 . QOpen 12:00 . www. Sat 11:00 . QOpen 12:30 . Gheorghe Manu 2-4. ribs and salads Q Open 09:30 . (+4) 021 316 16 67. (+4) lamuse@lamuse. tel. tel. contact@cluba. the resident Mojo band usually is. Splaiul Independentei (corner with Str. which besides offering decent regular live music serves what is probably the best selection of draught beer in the city. Sun 14:00 . (+4) 021 318 12 85/(+4) 0726 10 34 07. The food in fact is what perked our interest in the first place: we had heard about the amazing burgers and just had to come and try them. QOpen 10:30 . lively pub right on Piata Universitatii: very much Bucharest’s beating heart. QOpen 09:00 . They even have Guinness on draught. Sat 16:00 . On the corner of Strada Selari and Splaiul Independentei is T rue Club.06:00. Sun. www.January 2014 bucharest. Lipscani 29-33. Finnish is a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary Scandinavian design to the Romanian Closed Mon. PBW 07:00. the crowd is a trendy one and we defy you not to enjoy yourself here. €€€. MPiata Unirii. not the least of which is the wide selection of live music and events they put on: no act seems to be too quirky for The Address. comanda@lachinezesc. subs and salads. www. You might want to reserve at the weekends: this place is damn popular.cluba. B-dul Octavian Goga 24. a Brown Ale and even cider on tap. Sun 16:00 .01:00. Barbu Vladoianu 46. A much-changed venue which over the past year or so has shed its shabby-chic look and which has become a bigger.02:00. Selari 14.05:00. Smardan 43. and the interior décor is pub-ish without overdoing Wed. The Vintage aspect is provided by the hanging of various antiques on the walls. we think. (+4) 0753 57 82 09. www. PEBSW Fire Club C-6. PEBW Finnish Cocktail & Club C-6. Freddo C-6. www. from theme nights to theatre. Closed Mon. Blănari 14. And it’s not bad. The beer is a decent price. In a Lipscani basement. www. MPiata Unirii. a night of indie beats or a night of up-to-the-minute clubby sounds. smooth vibes and smooth cocktails. (+4) 0727 48 80 Fri. Str. Sat 10:00 .bastards. www. Q Open 12:00 . In a Stella. PNBW Old Town Microbreweries Re:Public Bierhalle C-6. Covaci 3. keeping us all dry. (+4) 0736 35 93 59. Good food and drink in a big. Live music on most weekend nights. We can confirm that The Pub serves one of Bucharest’s best burgers. PESW Home Delivery Fabio Pizza A-3.inyourpocket. We also like the tall tables and bright blue bar stools. this is the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it. PENB Bastards C-6. When the resident covers band or top local act isn’t performing you will find karaoke. MPiata Victoriei.24:00. Str. We love it. Str. We suggest you take a chance and delve inside. Another Smardan drinking den. Smart too: when it started raining we were about to run for cover only for the roof to be extended. Patrick. tel. (+4) The Vault C-6. Fri. tel. Sun. Closed Sun. sandwiches and a big terrace (at the right time of year) attract a young Closed Mon. MPiata Unirii. Regina Elisabeta 9. Staff are incredibly hospitable. Str. tel. QOpen 13:00 . It could be karaoke. (+4) 0760 26 34 96. Sat.freddo. Hosts loads of events. Yes! The Nan Jing now does home delivery.23:00. (+4) 0734 00 02 36/(+4) 0745 02 42 17.01:00. brighter and less smokey venue than ever December 2013 . this place sets the standard for nights out in Old Town. PBSW 0722 37 33 36. We also liked the fact that you can reserve the exat table you want directly on the venue’s website. Sun. nanjing. VS Mojo C-6. and the rather glorious tiled (original?) floor. upstairs is the most popular karaoke venue in the land. Sat 09:00 .ro. QOpen 10:00 05:00.05:00.05:00. www. We have always liked the place and if you want to ‘go local’ it is one of your better options in the Old Town.06:00. If you want a local.03:00. it could be rock night. tel. Sun 09:00 . Vintage Pub C-6.usually provided by a DJ . (+4) 021 311 71 22/(+4) 021 322 07 22. MUniversitate. there is much more to Jerry’s than pizza these days. QOpen 11:00 . www. www.

first built on this site in the second part of the 15thcentury by Vlad Ţepeş. After two fires gutted the building however. There is also a cafe. The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban Voda. monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romania’s National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of local architect Alexandru Săvulescu. Lipscani 25. when many of the rightful owners of the houses and businesses which lined the area’s streets were arrested by the communist authorities. National History Museum (Muzeul National de Istorie) C-5. Closed Mon.which appeared during May 2012 . Caragiale. as well as the current Romanian Crown Jewels. but it remains a classic worthy of admiration. students and children 7 lei. the Romanian postal service. Admission 25 lei. and that the city grew quickly around the palace. Built in 1808 the enormous. The Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the time of the Geto-Dacians. and is a popular object for both locals and visitors to ironically have their photo taken with. Franceza.was then neglected for decades. with many of the empty buildings being occupied over the years (legally or otherwise) by The . The museum’s two most important collections. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Tue. Much of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. It has not unsurprisingly been the subject of much ridicule. By the middle of the 17th century the area was Bucharest merchant district. fax (+4) 021 311 33 56. the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR. who added a splendid voievodal palace. L. pensioners 15 lei. and subsequently neglected. According to legend. including the king’s crown and an amazing selection of emeralds made for Queen Mary.allegedly represents the emperor Trajan holding a wolf. It originally served as the headquarters of Poşta Romană. and add real colour to the area. and their property confiscated and left to rot. from a pub. was considerably extended during the 16th century. and is currently home to two restaurants: Manuc’s Bistro which serves Romanian food) and Levantin.86 OlD TOWN Old Town Sights The Bucharest Old Town area is historic for this is where Bucharest was founded. completed to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. pr@mnir. The museum’s exhibitions are spread over 60 display rooms. Str. and again a century later. painted on an electricity sub-station in Piata Sf. The building boasts a facade with Corinthian columns. although many are currently closed for renovation. and an enormous central banking hall. which it to all intents and purposes remained until the end of World War II. The Characters from the plays of I. Bucur the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s when he built a church somewhere on the eastern bank of the Dâmboviţa river: nobody is sure exactly where this church was (or even if it actually existed). not least the grand staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza. ro. are very much open: the Lapidarium and the Romanian Treasury.mnir. Kind of. Many of these Gypsies remain today. The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and essential for any visitor to Bucharest. Calea Victoriei 12. Anton Old Court. Manuc’s Inn) C-6. a Lebanese eatery. this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu. decorated with marble and icons. MPiata Unirii. www. The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however. A hostelry ever since it opened the Han has seldom looked better. The passing of time has seen the building become rather hemmed in. Old Court Palace & Church (Palatul şi Biserica Curtea Veche) C-6. When the post office moved away in 1970. tel. MPiata Unirii. The entire area . Franceza. which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various things. Str. and in summer the courtyard is packed. (+4) 021 315 82 07. Banca Nationala a Romaniei C-6. MUniversitate. a full-scale replica of Trajan’s Column. to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby girl’s school. What we do know is that by the first reign of Vlad Ţepeş (1459-1462) there was a palace and court (the Palatul Curtea Veche) in the area we today call Old Town.inyourpocket. however. The Lapidarium includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda and what is probably the museum’s finest exhibit.viewed as being far too bourgeous for communist tastes . the History Museum moved in. The bizarre statue on the museum’s steps . three-level Hanul lui Manuc (Manuc’s Inn) is one of Europe’s last remaining caravanserai. The National History Museum Hanul lui Manuc (Hanul Manuc. MUniversitate. by Mircea Ciobanul. Str.

They were painted from 1853-6. kept in Piata Romana. MUniversitate. dating from 1545. The central corp of the building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse C-6. as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne room. A replica of a similar monument in Rome. constructed over a twelve year period from 1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza. gift shops. Str. Alongside the kebabs there are also Calea Victoriei. B-dul Camil Ressu 1 and B-dul Timisoara 26. burgers and the like. this was Bucharest’s first shopping mall. Sutu Palace / Museum of Bucharest C-5. in Cluj. In other words. Q Open 24hrs. painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Mişu Papa. There are three other identical statues around Romania. Q Open 10:00 . History buffs might like to know that in January 1859 at No. Some temporary exhibitions cost extra. MUniversitate. (+4) 021 315 68 58. Neo-Gothic Şuţu Palace. Smardan.publice@muzeulbucurestiului. Admission 6 lei. You will leave feeling as though you want more. Franceza 17. Ion Heliade Radulescu (a founding member of the Romanian Academy). it has led a nomadic existence. Str. It is also worth pointing out that until the 1960s trams ran along the street here: somewhat incredible given how narrow it is in places. Mihai Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite the three Romanian provinces. tel. As Moldavian deputies had already done likewise a week earlier. Piata Universitatii. lipscani@dristorkebap. Franceza Universitate Zlatari Church (Biserica Zlatari) C-6. December 2013 . It was enlarged in 1715 during the reign of Ştefan Cantacuzino. MUniversitate. It’s a regular late-night haunt of ours and the queues speak for themselves. MUniversitate. recently. The highlight is probably the selection of maps of Bucharest through the ages. who from 1840-50 was the chief architect of Bucharest. Romulus & Remus C-6. in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician. (+4) 0733 11 04 64. its name and history aside. Perhaps the busiest street in the Lipscani area is Str. It is covered with an arcade yellow glass roof to allow natural light. were added in 1847. Opposite is the university building itself. the oldest in Bucharest. and while small an enjoyable hour can be spent It’s original name was restored in 1990.muzeulbucurestiului. in which most of the relics found on the site are exhibited. in the days when the street was paved with logs. and which when the weather is good just looks like one huge terrace. Built in 1905-09 with a 600. MUniversitate. it over time lent its name to the whole area. and an excellent souvenir shop. a wonderful courtyard (once part of a large inn) which today houses art galleries. Officially called the Lupa Capitolina. and you might often see skilled craftsmen working on restoring them. Str. MPiata Unirii. cafes and restaurants. It moved back here to its original location in 2010. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church.18:00. Church dates back to the 15th century. Targu Mures and Timisoara. KFC on the ground floor of Unirea closes at 23:00.Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse (pictured right) was built in 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei . In our opinion. Piata Roma (Str. Str. Smardan 31. lamb dishes and sweets.inyourpocket. home today to any number of bars. Ioanikie Stratonikeas. and is best known for its interior frescoes by Gheorghe Tatarescu. Legendary chain of kebab shops. and the frescoes inside. gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasmă) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral. modern Str. so instead get yourself here for your late night/early morning fried chicken fix. Though rebuilt as an exact replica of the original. in 1818. from kebabs (which are OK) to hot dogs.C. Smardan. It was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1847 and the current building dates from 1852 but it has undergone numerous renovations due to damage from earthquakes. and a theatre. studios and portrait artists. Pasajul MaccaVilacrosse. There are fragments of the original 15th century walls. It originally housed three faculties (Law. Nicholas Church (Biserica Sfantul Nicolae Blanari) C-6. www. many sculptures and basreliefs by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever. pubs. In Piata Roma. MUniversi- Str. built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache Şuţu. St. Dristor Kebap C-6. MUniversitate. son-in-law of the building’s architect. (+40) 21 313 47 47. Closed Mon. MUniversitate. tel. and Mihalache Macca. students and pensioners. In front of them are four statues. at the entrance to Strada Lipscani. There was a plaque marking the spot until bucharest. of the first Romanian school in Bucharest). even in to Old Town. Wallachian deputies elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as their Prince. Q Open 11:00 . to signify Romania’s Latin origins. Calea Victoriei 12. Dumitru Gyros Thessaloniki Str. while there is also an original log from the Podul Mogosoaia: the forerunner of Calea Victoriei. Calea Vacaresti 391. www. pubs and clubs. It is characterized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings. MUniversitate. tel. Closed Mon.and the National Bank. at the time Prince of Romania. Q Open 24 hrs. Lipscani. MUniversitate/ Piata Unirii. when the palace ruins were first opened as a museum. Ironically. and was most recently Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse Strada Smardan C-6. Dumitru de Juramant) C-6. Cheap too: it’s a winner. MPiata Unirii.citygrill. Str. The courtyard outside (beautiful on a sunny afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th century.000 gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II. Lipscani was the main commercial street in the Old Town. Felix Xenopol. Dumitru by the way is the patron saint of Bucharest. astronomer and politician who as education minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations of the modern Romanian education system). Blanari 16. The exhibition is well captioned in Romanian and English. www. Stavropoleos Church (Biserica Stavropoleos) C-6. The church digs that took place from 1967-72. As Str. was built in the 1880s as a private chapel for Romania’s first royal couple: Note that the king and queen still have special seats on the left and right of the church’s 18th century icon kept for them should they ever return.then the busiest street in the city . it was a presented to the city by the Italian state in 1906. Postei 2. which at the time was one of the largest trading posts in Europe. Lipscani is the Hanul cu Tei. MPiata Unirii. www. Xavier Villacrosse. tel. sold wares here brought from Frescoes also decorate the door. B-dul I. OlD TOWN 89 Chicken Staff C-6. I. although it does have some exceptional bars. Find it on the corner of Selari and the river at the bottom of Old Town: it’s open 24 hours. St. Str. of which the finest are on the main Strada Lipscani & Hanul cu Tei C-6. About two thirds of the way along Str. Strada Lipscani gets its name from the large number of traders who. Q Open 24 hrs. is this statue of the Roman wolf nurturing Romulus and Remus. yet building work has (we hope temporarily) covered it up. During the communist period the passage was known by the name Pasajul Bijuteriei (Jewellery Passage) and hosted the city’s largest jewellers.dristorkebap. Tue. however.18:00. Lipscani). Children under seven free.most of which offer hookah pipes and exotic tobaccos . relatii. of Gheorghe Lazar (founder. MPiata Unirii. It is named for a Catalan architect. as well as the university’s administrative departments. Ghica 9. Much overlooked museum. 3 lei . despite its location in the very centre of the city. MPiata Unirii.88 OlD TOWN Late Night Food Bun de tot Str. The name means good for everything and everything is what they have here. The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek monk. The icon itself is said by churchgoers to have magical healing powers. St. in the 18th century. 42 (then the Hotel Concordia). and it looks better than ever. also intended to encourage commerce at street level.January 2014 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. tate. The museum is housed in the elegant. Humanities and Science).stavropoleos. which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide.05:00. Today packed with cafes . The twin semi-circular buildings in Piata Universitatii which are in many ways the entrance to the Old Town were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of Romania’s largest insurance company. Gabroveni 2. antique shops. The wooden. Bratianu 2. (+4) 021 315 55 40. Str. St. Lipscani has little to recommend it. The Zlatari Church (Biserica Zlatari) was built in the 19th century on the site of an earlier church. fax (+4) 021 310 25 62. the election that took place here created the first unified Romanian state since Mihai Bravu’s short-lived reign of 1600. Dumitru Church (Biserica Sf. Stavropoleos 4. QOpen 10:00 . Also at (C-7) B-dul Marasesti 42. but today houses just the Faculty of Letters and Languages. Nicholas Students’ Church (Sfântul Nicolae Biserica Studenţilor) C-5. The church’s exterior was recently renovated. as well as a lively terrace (in summer) and pub/restaurant. this place serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. in Moscow’s Kremlin. St. this Russian orthodox church is topped with seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox cross. second-hand book shops.

QOpen 08:00 . It’s popular for book launches and the like.labibliotheque. Str. Dr.German Dentist D-6. For emergencies (24hrs) tel. tel. Closed Sun. 56 12. (+4) 0734 11 B. QOpen 09:00 . it’s a genuine Bucharest first. Wow. thanks in the main to terrific design and a great community of people and friends that has quickly grown up around the place. Croatia D-5. It’s They will even come and clear up after you have had the builders in. QOpen 08:00 . Calea Dorobantilor 111. (+4) 0744 49 91 and well-run. . (+4) 021 300 Finland B-3. (+4) 021 300 Czech Republic C-5. we like this place.urgentafloreasca. tel. Ionescu Gion Clinics & Hospitals Emergency Clinic Hospital (Spitalul de Urgenta Floreasca) C-3. Professional cleaning service: apartments. tel. Probably the best dentist in the (+4) 021 231 88 56. but it does. Dr. (+4) 021 Denmark D-5. Efficient. tel. Str.20:00. tel. Gheorghe Manu 10. 303 10 00. Str. Bulgaria B-3. Str. B-dul Unirii 57. offices etc. tel. Sat 09:00 . Gh. Dentists 4. www. Str. (+4) 021 201 Belgium D-4. Duiliu Zamfirescu www. Atena houses. (+4) 021 202 98 30. Calea Floreasca 8. (+4) 021 230 75 45. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13 and many other locations around town.Q Open 24hrs. France B-4.21:00. Biserica Amzei 13-15. you can bring the kids too. Closed Sat. as they now have special rooms equipped just for them. Sun. Burghelea 1. tel. Best dry cleaners in town. Cpt. Burghelea 3. bl. (+4) 021 230 21 50. Canada A-3. Closed Sun. What’s more. We recommend you go there. tel. (+4) 021 08 00. Tuberozelor 1-3. Germany B-3. tel. Rabat 5. Clinic . La Bibliotheque (+4) 021 212 51 Str. www. www. tel.cmu. clean. Closed Sat. and can take care of tricky things such as marble and furniture. Q Open 10:00 . Mon 10:00 . www. Best state-run hospital in Romania. www. (+4) 021 236 00 98/(+4) 0762 28 53 47. Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7. (+4) 021 210 29 69. 303 92 30. housed in one of the most glorious villas in the city. (+4) 021 307 50 00. tel.19:00.19:00. Str. tel. Str. PW La Bibliotheque B-3. Dry Cleaners 5asec B-3.egnate. 36 55. (+4) 021 599 23 00. tel. Str. Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. Ion Ghica E4. Sun.21:00. Sat 09:00 .inyourpocket. Str. Egnate B-4. Foreign representations Austria C-4. Demetriade 6-8. (+4) 0749 77 77 77. B-dul Dacia 58. It sounds as though it shouldn’t really work. Av. bonjour@ labibliotheque. tel. (+4) 021 327 11 88/(+4) 021 9268. tel. tel.germandentist. genuinely different: a beauty salon and library. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51. Unirea Medical Center C-6.90 DIREcTORY Cleaners 15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86.B.

entrance from B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918). Cambridge School of Bucharest lauder_reut@ yahoo.QOpen 06:30 23:00. (+4) 021 230 41 36. Agricultori 21-23. jpsbucharest@gmail. UK C-4. tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30. (+4) 021 253 16 98. Sun. Calea Dorobantilor 34. info@isb. tel. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20. Sweden B-3. Q Open Key cuts El Chei C-5. Euro Mini Storage B-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J.ibsb. tel. Petre Aurelian 72. Mihai Eminescu 144.euroministorage. the private sector has jumped in to fill this breach.inyourpocket. DIREcTORY Schools in Bucharest For Mums and Dads who live in (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4) 0728 13 34 33. tel.britishschool. Pavel Kiseleff 6. bucharest. Athena Greek School of Bucharest D-6. Aleea Alexandru 40. bcaromania. tel. Sos. (+4) 021 204 43 00/ (+4) 021 204 43 01. Tickets valid from 06:00-22:00 cost 120 lei (adults) and 80 lei (children). Pache Protopopescu 1-3. Mark Twain International School Str. Netherlands B-3. Sos. native English speaking teachers. tel. International British School E-5.helpnet. Also at (B-3) Str. (+4) 021 210 08 80.adn@lyfrabuc. Str. The views are great. (+4) 021 200 33 00. InterContinental Hotel C-5. (+4) 021 305 21 00. and competition for places at the best is tough. Sat. For a full list of foreign embassies and representations in Bucharest.lauder-reut. (+4) 021 212 58 93/(+4) 021 212 58 Str. even if their facilities are somewhat lacking (few state schools have sports fields).92 DIREcTORY Swimming Pools Crowne Plaza B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza Hotel). (+4) 021 306 98 00. tel. Str. and a host of other wellness facilities. (+4) 021 345 06 66. Otetari 1. internationalkindergarden. Calea Dorobantilor 39. IOANID Preschool International Education Str. office@britishschool. tel. Hilton Health Club C-5. Pharmacies 24hrs. B-dul Unirii 27. (+4) 021 406 71 00.22:00. fax (+4) 021 267 89 85. tel. 021 242 16 15. www. Good outdoor and indoor pools open to the public. fax (+4) 021 380 38 38. tel. Sensiblu C-5. tickets valid 16:00-23:00 cost 90 lei. Str. (+4) 021 206 16 00. Str. 40 lei (children). www. www.” The Guardian “The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks. Aleea Alexandru 43. www. tel. Aleea Alexandru 23. office@ aisb. (+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36 Parfumului 9. Adults 60 lei Mon-Fri. massage. Gara Catelu 1R. elchei. Radu Beller 8. Str. (+4) 021 224 00 34. QOpen 06:00 .ro. fax (+4) 021 320 15 75. www. www. American International School Sos. tel. tel.22:00. office@ibsb. Christian Tell 22. tel.22:00. Str. www. tel.crowneplaza. tel. Complex Rezidential Stejarii. tel. We provide a list of the best private schools below. www. There is also of course the fact that unless your kids can speak Romanian. and many other locations around the city. Atena 18. Probably the highest swimming pool in Romania (it’s on one of the top floors of the InterContinental hotel). tel. tel. (+4) 209 41 70. tel. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65.cambridgeschool. (+4) 021 267 89 12/(+4) 0724 00 09 00. Str. Iuliu Barasch 15. Free for children under three. Kiseleff 43. Sauna. Alexandru Constantinescu 61. Day tickets valid from 06:00-16:00 cost 80 lei (adults). (+4) 021 300 61 00. (+4) 021 031 620 43 00. www. There are huge differences between state schools however. (+4) 031 100 18 88. the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison. Also at (B-3) Str. International School for Primary Education (InSPE) Str. Day tickets valid 08:00-16:00 cost 65 lei.” The Times “In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city. fax (+4) 021 253 16 97. Str. Sun. weight and fitness room. (+4) 021 201 72 00. there are a handful of state schools in Bucharest (both primary and secondary) which regularly meet an outstanding academic Indeed. (+4) 021 320 15 38. Erou Iancu Nicolae 25B. Paris 55. Str. Russia (+4) 021 211 98” Wall Street Journal “Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so. the state system will be practically closed to them. Buzesti 50-52. (+4) 021 310 20 20. the good news is that the city has some outstanding schools: both state and December 2013 . Serbia B-3.20:00. www.” The Independent “Solid. Ireland B-4. visit inyourpocket. tel. tel. Str. Indoor pool in a leafy setting at the Crowne Plaza hotel. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton). Day tickets cost 120 lei. Jules Michelet 24. Spain B-3. Av. Radu Beller 6. Lauder-Reut C-6. 3. tel. www. and many other locations. Str. tel.aisb. QOpen 06:00 . inspe. tel. Vasile Voiculescu 26. Glodeni 3. tel. tel. Str. Fortunately. www. et. fax (+4) 021 222 19 tel. Bucharest Christian Academy D-7. Macedonia D-4. International School of Bucharest Sos. bucharest.inyourpocket. tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87.QOpen 08:00 .ro. 50 lei Sat. QOpen 24hrs. All boast outstanding academic records and modern jacuzzi and massage too. fax (+4) 021 306 95 tel. Children under 16 cost 50 lei at any time of day if accompanied by an adult. Children 40 lei Mon-Fri. USA B-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5. and there are now a number of excellent private sector schools in Bucharest offering a high level of education to children of all nationalities (and not just expats: many wealthy Romanians choose to send their children to these private schools). com. Jandarmeriei 14. (+4) 021 311 14 18. British School of Bucharest Erou Iancu Nicolae 42. B-dul Nicolae Balcescu (+4) 021 318 10 80. (+4) 021 208 60 30. Closed Sun. www. Pipera-Tunari Pescariu Sports & Spa D-2. Poland B-3. ro. Norway B-3. sauna. tel. Comuna Voluntari. tel. fax (+4) 021 312 09 Str..24:00. there is a gym and steam room too.jpschool. Switzerland B-4. and a vast range of extra-curricular activities. Aleea Alexandru 20. QOpen 06:00 . Coltei 6. (+4) 021 210 21 31/(+4) 021 210 21 38. 100 lei Sat. www. tel. Indoor pool. Help Net A-3.sensiblu. MUniversitate.January 2014 . 93 International Schools 196. (+4) 021 308 22 00. Hungary C-4. All information is also available on the publisher’s website. www. Italy B-4. (+4) 021 222 31 70. www. www.greekschool. (+4) 021 310 21 www. Japanese School in Bucharest A-2. and you can sunbathe on the balcony. fax (+4) 021 204 43 03. steam room. Lycee Francais dence. Moldova B-3. Str. B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 4. tel. “Brutally honest. Str. Call (+4) 0722 20 51 10 ifyou get locked out of your apartment late at night. (+4) 021 230 04 74. Str. Sat 08:00 14:00. Henri Coanda 9. (+4) 021 303 37 77. Portugal B-3. Green Lake Resi- Removals & Storage AGS Worldwide Movers B-dul Basarabia 256 (Faur Industrial Park. Sun 08:00 . (+4) Press Box What the international press has been saying about In Your Pocket. (+4) 021 222 19 85. Slovakia C-5.” Sueddeutsche Zeitung Bucharest In Your Pocket Greece E-5.

Northern Bucharest Village Museum Romanian National Rugby Stadium Arc de Triumf Romanian Television (TVR) Casa Victor Res iden ce A rcul rium de T ll f o Pico nd o Mo Circus Globus Peasant Museum Grigore Antipa Museum Geology Museum Nonna Mia Emergency Hospital Institutul Matei Bals Starlight Children’s Emergency Hospital Marshal Garden Piata Obor Minerva George Enescu Museum Duke Ibis Gara de Nord Hello Moxa Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Dan Golden Tulip Yeshoah Tova .

Dumitru Tania Baratiei Old Court Palace & Church Cocor NH Confort Traian Europa Royale Domnita Balasa Royal International Contemporary Art Museum JW Marriott Antim Monastery Horoscop M Double Tree by Hilton Patriarchal Cathedral Radu Voda Monastery Bucur Church Carol Parc Suter Inn Technology Museum M .Andy’s Art Collections Museum Piata Amzei Central & Southern Bucharest Ambassador Boutique Hotel Monaco Schitul Darvari Berthelot Athenee Palace Hilton Radisson Blu Scala Theodor Aman Museum University Carol I Library Statue Italian Church National Revolution Art Monument Museum (MNAR) Cretulescu Trianon Interior Ministry Comfort Suites Tempo El Greco Opera Novotel Grand Continental InterContinental Epoque Maje Capitol Cismigiu stic Caps a Casa Z Boutique Museum of Bucharest Central Doamnei Volo K&K Elisabeta Coltea Church & Hospital Russian Church Rembrandt Mihai Voda History Museum Ibis Parliament Parliament Stavropoleos Church Sf.

A6 Miron Costin. Str. B4 Buzoiani Iani. B4 Iosif O. Intr. Str. C5 Berna. Radu Voda. B4 Caderea Bastiliei. A6 Putul Cu Plopi. G-ral. B3 Hagi Moscu Maria. B3 Lister. Prof. Sosea Tokio.a. Quito. Str.98 STREET REGISTER 13 Septembrie. Venezuela. B5 Otetari. C3 Buzesti. Str. Serg. Ramniceanu Naum. C6 Cronicarilor. Piata Universitatii. G-ral. Str. A5 Gabroveni. A6 Coanda Constantin.. Str. Str. C5 Poenaru Bordea. B4 Aman Theodor. Str. Intr. Str. Str. Str B3 Dianei. Str. Cale D4 Moxa Mihail. Str. Str. Sofia. Calea Victoriei. Str. C6 Petrescu Camil. Str. Str. Str. C5 Franceza. E3 Brezoianu Ion. B5 Berzei. Str. A6 Povernei. Str. C4 Ilfov. Str. Str. D4 Enescu George. Str. Transilvaniei. A4 Negulescu Stefan. Str. Unirii. B3 Ostasilor.. Str. Str. Str. B5 Lebedei. Str. B4 Furtuna Stefan. Str. Sevastopol. Str. Str. Bd. Zola Emile. Sarandy Frosa. Washington. Str. Str. Bd. B4 Cobalcescu Grigore. Str. Str. B4 Hristo Botev. Str. B5 Brutus M. Slavesti. Str. Str. Str. Witting. B5 Hasdeu Iulia.. B3 Arghezi Tudor. Str. Unirii. Bd. Str. Str. A5 Eroilor. Roma. B6 Ghica Ion. Str. A6 Patriarhiei. Intr.str. Piata C4 Lantului. Str. Str. B3 Mirinescu Mihail. Bd. Dr. Str.. B3 Budisteanu Constantin. Intr. Str. Str. B6 Poiana Narciselor. Str.. A5 Eroilor. Intr. C5 Finlanda..inyourpocket. Str.. Str. G-ral. Vladoianu Barbu. Scoalei. A4 Atena. Sfintii Voievozi. B5 Macedoniei. C4 Philippide Alexandru. Piata B6 Conta Vasile. C5 Eftimiu Victor. Piata Sfintii Voievozi. C5 Doamna Oltea. A3 Mihnea Voda. Str. A4 Filipescu Nicolae. Scarlatescu. B4 Muresanu Andrei. B4 Icoanei. Bd.. Str. Str. C6 Haret Spiru. Bd. Str. Str. B3 Mosilor. Calea B3 Dorobanti. Str. Piata A4 Buzesti. Dr. Str. A3 Izvor. Str.. Dr. Str. Intr. A5 Covaci. C6 Lisabona. Str. B4 Caderon Jean Louis. A5 Crisului. Str. Str. B5 Pasteur Louis. A4 Mamulari. Cmdr. Stahi Constantin. Stefan Cel Mare.l. Str. Str. C4 Eminescu Mihai. Str. Str. Str.. Intr. C4 Mexic. Str. C4 Poni Petru. Calea B6 21 Decembrie 1989. A4 Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul. Str.. B4 Praga.. Saligny Anghel. Piata B5 Natiunile Unite. Str. Quinet Edgar. B5 Mincu Ion. B3 Blanari. Str.. Tudor Stefan. A4 Popa Tatu. Cpt.. B5 Buiestrului. A3 Clunet.intr.. B4 Cavafii Vechi. Str. Str. Str. Slanic. C6 Gara De Nord. Str.l. Selari. B3 Blanduziei. B6 Polizu Gheorghe.. Str. Piata Rabat. Str. Str. Arh. Bd. Tirana. C4 Duca Gheorghe. Scoala Floreasca. Str. Str. Str. C3 Dona Nicolae. Eugen. Str. Str. Piata Visarion I. Bd. A4 Dacia. Str. Str. Str. Str. C5 Alecsandri Vasile. Bd. Str. Bd. C5 Pretorienilor. Str. Piata C5 Academiei. Str. Str. C5 Constantin Daniel. A6 Lascar Vasile. A4 Carada Eugeniu. C4 Alexandrescu Grigore. B5 Putul Lui Zamfir. B6 Monetariei. Str. Dr. B4 Biserica Enei. B4 Coanda Henri. Bd. Str. Str. Intr. C6 Manolescu Grigore. A6 Justitiei. Str. A6 Clucerului.d. G-ral. D3 Lahovari Alexandru. B3 C5 B3 B3 C6 C3 C5 C6 B5 B5 B3 B3 B4 C5 C5 C5 C3 B5 B6 A3 A3 B5 C3 C5 C6 C6 C6 B4 B4 C6 B5 A6 B6 B4 B4 C5 C4 C4 C6 B3 B5 A6 C6 D4 B5 B5 B3 A4 B3 B4 B5 C3 C4 C6 C6 C5 C3 B3 C5 B4 B4 B4 A3 C4 B4 B3 A4 C4 B5 B3 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest. B3 Michelet Julles. Bd. Str. Str. Intr. C6 Batistei. B5 Millo Matei. B3 Lupu Dionisie. A5 Gutenberg. Piata B7 Lipova. Str. Str. Str. G-ral. Str.. C6 Frumoasa. Str. B6 Libertatii. Str. C4 Botez Eugen. Titulescu Nicolae. Sosea Stirbei Voda. Regina Elisabeta. Rosetti Maria. Piata Rigas.. Bd. C6 Caderea Bastiliei. Intr. Stirbei Voda. Str. C4 Eforie. Str.. Verona Arthur.. Bd. Sfantul Constantin. Str. Piata B3 Dragalina Ion.. B4 Buzesti. Piata Rosetti C. Str. Dr. Stavropoleos. Victoriei. Str. C6 Crisana. Str. G-ral. Sapientei. Str. Piata Rosetti C. C6 Brazilia. Str. Piata B5 Masaryk Thomas. B6 Bruxelles. G-ral. Piata B6 Neculce Ion. B5 Popescu-gopo Ion. Str. Str. M. A6 Negruzzi Iacob. Str. Str. Intr.. Romana.c. Str. Bd. Str. Str. B3 Berthelot H. B4 Hasdeu Iulia. A4 Dumbrava Rosie. Str. Str. Str. Dr. Regina Maria. Intr. Intr. Revolutiei. . Str. Str. Str. C3 Amzei. Piata D6 Cornescu. Str. Str. Bd. Str. Rossini Gioachino. C6 Caragea Ioan Voda. Intr. B4 Pitar Mos. Dr. B3 Floreasca. Str. B5 Amman. Bd. Piata B5 Lacatusului. C4 Piata Amzei. A3 Negri Costache. Dr. B5 Elie Radu. Bd. C6 Blanc Louis. Str. Intr. Sfanta Vineri. Str. Str. Str. B4 Oslo... Str. A5 Lipscani. Str. Staicovici Nicolae.. Str. Str. Str. C4 Micle Veronica.i. Str. B3 Praporgescu David. C6 Cazzavillan Luigi. Str. Str. B3 Musatescu Tudor. C5 Paris. C4 Grigorescu Eremia. C5 Iancu De Hunedoara. Str. A4 Polona. Intr. Str. Intr. Str. A4 Georgescu George. Cale C3 Florescu Ion.. B4 David Emmanuel. C4 Davila Carol. A3 Manu Gheorghe. Bd C5 Magiresti. Zalomit Z. B4 Horatiu. Piata A6 Felix Iacob. C2 Lacul Tei.. Str. B4 Alexandrescu Grigore. Schitul Magureanu. A3 Libertatii. Str. G-ral. Str. Str. Ion. Str. C5 Atelierului. Intr. Str. Str. Str. B3 Kogalniceanu Mihail.. A4 Biserica Amzei.. Str. B3 Balaban Emil. Bd. A4 Maltopol. Str. C5 Carol I. Bd. B4 Maracineanu Walter. C6 Banului. Str. B6 Natiunile Unite. Str. C3 Cuza Alexandru Ioan. Str.col. Str. Selari. B4 Iorga Nicolae. Tomescu Toma. Str. Dr. Piata A4 Gara De Nord. Str. Str. C2 Buzoianu Ion. Str. G-ral. C5 Bitolia. D4 Dascalu Nicolae. B3 Brebu. Xenopol Alexandru. Str. Bd B5 Kogalniceanu Mihail. Str. Str. Str. Ing. Tunari. Str. Str. Intr. Str. C4 Cameliei. C5 Golescu Dinicu. Pictor. B5 Baratiei. Str. B5 Episcopiei. Vulcanescu Mircea. Arh. C5 Lazar Gheorghe. A4 Cioranu Mihai. Piata Vacarescu Barbu. Str. Prof. C5 Eroii Sanitari.. B4 Apolodor. Str. C4 Balcescu Nicolae. G-ral. Str. Piata B5 Enescu George.a. Str. Str.. C5 Bogdan Ion.i. B3 Parvan Vasile. Bd. Str. Intr. Vlaicu Aurel. C4 Caragiale I. B5 Cernat Alexandru. C4 Grivitei. Str. Str. C5 Baniei. C5 Greceanu Paul. Str. C6 Mille Constantin. Str. Slatineanu Ion. Str. A3 Halelor. Str. Smardan. Str. Cale B4 Gusti Dimitrie. Sevastopol. Str. Str. B6 Iorga Nicolae. Str. B6 Kiseleff P . B5 Eminescu Mihai. C3 Bratianu I. C5 Mendeleev D. C3 Cotiturii. Str. A4 Golescu Nicolae. Str. Alee C6 Demetriade Gheorghe. Str. C5 Calin Ion.c. Str. Str. B4 Constitutiei. A6 Londra. Str. Str. Str A6 Dealul Mitropoliei. Str. C5 Caragiale I. Str. Str. C3 Occidentului. B5 Coltei. Erou. D5 Catargiu Lascar. Sfantul Elefterie. A4 Mihai Voda. Str. Sfintii Apostoli. C5 Luterana. B6 Drobeta. Str. B5 Politie. Roma. Str. Str. Str. C5 Coposu Corneliu. Str. B5 Dorobanti. Str. Sepcari. Intr. B6 Mihalache Ion. Str. B4 Frumoasa. C6 Coposu Corneliu.. Str. B5 Haga. A5 Magheru Gheorghe. Str. Bd. A6 Iulian Stefan. Str. Str. B6 Argentina. Str.